OF THE 
 
 U N IVER.S ITY 
 OF ILLINOIS 
 
 Received by bequest from 
 Albert H. Lybyer 
 Professor of History 
 University of Illinois 
 1916-1949 
 

 
 I 
 
 
 
 ft 
 
 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2016 
 
 
 
 https ://arch ive.org/detai Is/soyerscu I i naryca00soye_0 
 
SOYER’S 
 
 CULINARY CAMPAIGN. 
 
 BEING HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES 
 OF THE LATE WAR. 
 
 WITH 
 
 THE IPI^XISr OF COOJEZJSJSrST 
 
 MILITARY AND CIVIL INSTITUTIONS, THE ARM, NAYI, 
 PUBLIC, ETC. ETC. 
 
 By ALEXIS SOYER, 
 
 AUTHOR OF <f THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE,” <( SHILLING COOKERY FOR TRE FEOFEE,” 
 
 ETC. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 G. ROUTLEDGE & CO., EARRINGDON STREET. 
 
 NEW YORK: 18 , BEEEMAN STREET. 
 
 1857. 
 
 \_The right of translation is reserved.^ 
 
LONDON: 
 
 SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, 
 CHANDOS STREET* 
 
TO THE 
 
 RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD PANMURE, K.T. 
 
 ETC. ETC. ETC. 
 
 My Loud, 
 
 Grateful, indeed, do I feel for the unlimited con- 
 fidence reposed in me by your Lordship during my late 
 Mission in the East, and especially so for your kind 
 condescension in permitting me to dedicate to your 
 Lordship this work, which at once puts the final seal to 
 your Lordship’s appreciation of my humble services. 
 
 With the most profound respect, 
 
 I have the honour to remain. 
 
 My Lord, 
 
 Your Lordship’s most humble and dutiful Servant, 
 
 ' 5 - 
 
 ¥ 
 
 
 Alexis Soyer, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The Author of this work begs to inform his readers that 
 his principal object in producing his “ Culinary Cam- 
 paign” is to perpetuate the successful efforts made by 
 him to improve the dieting of the Hospitals of the 
 British army in the East, as well as the soldiers* rations 
 in the Camp before Sebastopol. 
 
 The literary portion the Author has dished up to the 
 best of his ability ; and if any of his readers do not relish 
 its historical contents, he trusts that the many new and 
 valuable receipts, applicable to the Army, Navy, Mili- 
 tary and Civil Institutions, and the public in general, 
 will make up in succulence for any literary deficiencies 
 that may be found in its pages. 
 
 At the same time, the Author takes this opportunity 
 of publicly returning his most grateful thanks to the 
 late authorities at the seat of war for their universal 
 courtesy, friendship, and great assistance, without which 
 success would have been an impossibility. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAP. PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTION. — A SUPPER AT THE “ALBION,” AND 
 
 ITS CONSEQUENCES 1 
 
 I. BY RAIL AND COACH TO VIRGINIA "WATER 13 
 
 II. A SUMMONS TO STAPFORD HOUSE 29 
 
 III. OFF TO THE "WAR 36 
 
 IV. DELIGHTS OF TRAVEL 19 
 
 V. COMFORT ON SHORE AND PENANCE AT SEA .... 57 
 
 VI. THE LAND OF THE 310 S LEM 70 
 
 VII. A BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE FROM PERA . S3 
 
 VIII. FIRST VIEW OF THE SCENE OF ACTION 91 
 
 IX. COMMENCEMENT OF THE CULINARY CAMPAIGN . . . 101 
 
 X. A TOUR ROUND THE KITCHENS Ill 
 
 XI. FIRST OPERATIONS 121 
 
 XII. THE SCUTARI MISSION ACCOMPLISHED 131 
 
 XIII. DEPARTURE FOR THE CRIMEA 117 
 
 XIV. COMMEN CEMENT OF MY CAMPAIGN IN THE CRIMEA . . 160 
 
 XV. THE ENGLISH AND TURKISH COMMANDERS-IN- CHIEF . . 180 
 
 XVI. A NEW ENEMY 191 
 
 XVII. RECEPTION AT ENGLISH AND FRENCH HEAD -QUARTERS 200 
 
 XVIII. A UNIVERSAL CALAMITY 213 
 
 XIX. HAPS AND MISHAPS IN CAMP 227 
 
 XX. EXPEDITIONS ON HORSE AND ON FOOT 239 
 
 XXI. MATTERS GRAVE AND GAY 250 
 
Ylll 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CIIAP. PAGE 
 
 XXII. PREPARATIONS POR ANOTHER TRIP 266 
 
 XXIII. OUR STEAM VOYAGE IN THE “LONDON” 2S9 
 
 XXIV. THREE -WEEKS AT SCUTARI 297 
 
 XXV. FESTIVITIES AT SCUTARI AND VISITS TO FRENCH HOS- 
 PITALS 315 
 
 XXVI. MY SECOND TRIP TO THE CRIMEA 325 
 
 XXVII. CAMP LIFE AT HEAD-QUARTERS 331 
 
 XXVIII. MY GREAT FIELD-DAY 350“ 
 
 XXIX. THE EIGHTH OF SEPTEMBER 361 
 
 XXX. FALL OF THE DOOMED CITY 375 
 
 XXXI. ILLNESS AND CHANGE OF SCENE 385 
 
 XXXII. CAMP OF THE FOURTH DIVISION 100 
 
 XXXIII. HOSTILITIES AT TABLE 115 
 
 XXXIV. CRIMEAN FESTIVITIES 133 
 
 XXXV. LAST DAYS OF BRITISH OCCUPATION OF THE CRIMEA . 159 
 
 XXXVI. LAST SCENE OF OUR STRANGE EVENTFUL HISTORY . 181 
 
 ADDENDA 513 
 
 ERKATA. 
 
 In page §,for “Little Jack,” read “Little Ben.” 
 Page 32, line 12, for “I think,” read “Slie thinks.” 
 
p. 1. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 A SUPPER AT THE “ ALBION,” AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. 
 
 Old Drury — Juvenile mirth — A sudden arrest — An invitation — No 
 excuse — Getting home — Mind your pockets — A trip to the 
 “ Wellington” — An intelligent waiter — Reading the news — A 
 sudden inspiration — Letter to the Times — The stupid waiter 
 again — Little Jack — Supper fare — Receipts — Tough kidneys — 
 How to cook them — Kidneys a la Roberto Diavolo — Kidneys a 
 la brochette — New hill of fare for London Suppers. 
 
 “ Hurrah ! hurrah ! bravo ! bravo !” For a few minutes 
 rounds of applause and shouts of laughter from the 
 juveniles were heard and loudly re-echoed throughout 
 the vast cupola of Old Drury, sending home the delighted 
 spectators, in fits of sneezing and coughing, through a 
 
 variegated atmosphere. Sir Henry W , turning to 
 
 me, exclaimed, “ Hallo, Mr. Soyer, the pantomime is over 
 early this evening ! ” and looking at his watch, continued, 
 “ Why, it is only half-past eleven o’clock.” 
 
 “Yes, Sir Henry; but quite late enough for children, who 
 after this time begin to mingle gaping with laughter.” 
 “True enough,” replied Sir Henry; “it is painful to 
 see those dear cherubs kept at the theatre till midnight, 
 or even later. Have you been long here ?” 
 
 “No,” I replied, “only a few minutes; just time 
 enough to witness the grand finale, and to hear the 
 screaming and laughter of the children, which to me is 
 always very amusing.” 
 
 “Very true, very true ; I am of your opinion, and. 
 never tire of children’s mirth.” 
 
 In a few minutes the theatre was nearly emptied of 
 spectators, but still full of smoke. Considering myself 
 that evening as free as a butterfly on a spring morning, 
 
2 
 
 AN UNEXPECTED INVITATION. 
 
 though unable, like that light-hearted insect, to flit 
 from flower to flower, I was trying to escape, with the 
 swiftness of an eel, down the gigantic and crowded 
 staircase, hoping to get off unobserved, as I had to start 
 early in the morning for the country, when suddenly a 
 friendly hand pressed me forcibly by the arm. The 
 owner of the same cried, “ Stop ! stop ! my friend ; I 
 have been hunting all over the theatre for you.” I at 
 once recognised an old Devonshire acquaintance, whom 
 I was indeed much pleased to see, having received a 
 most kind reception from him at my last visit to that 
 delightful county — so justly named the garden of 
 England. 
 
 “ Well, my dear sir,” said he, “myself and several 
 acquaintances of yours are here for a few days, and have 
 ordered a supper this evening at the f Albion . 5 We 
 heard you were at Drury Lane, and I have come to ask 
 you to join us . 55 
 
 “ I must say it is very kind of you, Mr. Turner; but 
 you must excuse me, as I am going as far as St. James 5 s- 
 street, by appointment ; besides, I leave for the country 
 early to-morrow morning. But I shall be happy to 
 spend to-morrow evening with you and your friends; 
 therefore, I beg you will apologise for me.” 
 
 “ To-morrow very likely we shall be off again ; we 
 only came for a couple of days, to breathe the London 
 air, and then return.” 
 
 “I beg your pardon — you mean London fog, not 
 air . 55 
 
 “ Why, yes, fog should be the word ; but for all that, 
 I love London in any season ; so no excuse — I shall not 
 leave you; you must join us, or your friend the squire 
 will be greatly disappointed. He came from the Great 
 Western Hotel this evening on purpose to see you . 55 
 
 Finding it almost impossible to get out of it, and 
 my friend having promised we should break up early, I 
 accepted, saying, “ You must allow me to go as far as 
 the ( Wellington , 5 as I have an appointment there; I 
 will be back in about half-an-hour.” 
 
 My incredulous country friend would not grant per- 
 
MIND YOUR POCKETS. 
 
 s 
 
 mission till I had assured him that I would faithfully 
 keep my promise, and return. 
 
 This dialogue took place in the entrance of the ves- 
 tibule, where a number of ladies and children were 
 waiting — some for their carriages and broughams, others 
 for those public inconveniences called cabs. This bevy 
 of beauty and group of children, the pride of young 
 England, seemed to interest my provincial friend so 
 much, that I had some trouble to get him out. It was 
 then nearly twelve o’clock. The front steps were also 
 crowded; the weather was chilly and damp; a thick 
 yellowish fog, properly mixed with a good portion of 
 soot, formed a shower of black pearls, which, gracefully 
 descending through the murky air, alighted, without 
 asking permission, upon the rosy cheeks of unveiled fair 
 dames, spotting their visages, if not a la Pompadour or 
 a la Watteau, at least a la Hogarth. A few steps lower 
 we entered a dense crowd — a most unpicturesque mis- 
 cellany of individuals, unclassically called the London 
 mob. “ Mind your pockets,” said I to my country 
 friend. 
 
 “By Jove, it’s too late,” said he, feeling in his 
 pocket — “ my handkerchief is gone !” 
 
 “ Is that all ?” I inquired. 
 
 “Well, let me see,” he observed, feeling again: 
 “ yes, thank God ! my watch and purse are quite safe.” 
 
 “ Ah,” I continued, laughing, “ the old adage which 
 prompts us to thank God for all things is quite correct ; 
 for you are actually thanking Him for the loss of your 
 handkerchief.” 
 
 “Not at all,” he replied; “I was thanking Him for 
 the safety of my watch and purse.” After a hearty 
 laugh we parted, he going to the “Albion,” and I to 
 the “Wellington.” 
 
 On my arrival there, I found that my friend had been 
 and was gone. My intelligent cabby soon brought me 
 back through the dense atmosphere to that far-famed 
 temple of Comus, at which crowds of celebrities meet 
 nightly — some to restore themselves internally, others to 
 sharpen their wits at that tantalising abode of good 
 
 b 2 
 
4 
 
 AN INTELLIGENT WAITER. 
 
 cheer. Upon entering, I inquired of a waiter, a stranger 
 to me, if he could inform me where my six friends 
 intended to sup. 
 
 “Yes, sir, directly.” Speaking down the trumpet: 
 “Below! a Welsh rabbit and fresh toast — two kidneys 
 underdone — scalloped oyster — a chop — two taters ! Look 
 sharp below !” To the barmaid : “ Two stouts, miss — 
 one pale — four brandies hot, two without — one whisky 
 — three gin — pint sherry — bottle of port !” 
 
 “ What an intelligent waiter !” thought I, “ to have 
 so good a memory.” Having waited till he had given 
 his orders, I again said, “ Pray, my fine fellow, in which 
 room are my friends going to sup ? They have a private 
 room, no doubt?” 
 
 “Yes, sir, a private room for two.” 
 
 “No, not for two — for six.” 
 
 “ Oh ! I don't mean that, sir : I want a rump-steak 
 for two,” said he ; “ stewed tripe for one — three grogs — 
 bottle pale Bass.” And off he went to the coffee-room. 
 
 “ Plague upon the fellow !” said I to myself. 
 
 As the barmaid could not give me any information 
 upon the subject, and I perceived through a half-opened 
 door on the right-hand side of the bar a table laid for 
 six, I went in, making sure it was for my friends, and 
 that they had not yet arrived. Indeed, I had myself 
 returned from my appointment much sooner than I had 
 expected. I sat down, and was reading the evening 
 paper, when a waiter came in. “ After you with the 
 paper, sir.” 
 
 “ I have done; you may take it.” 
 
 “ There's the Times , sir, if you have not seen it.” 
 
 “No, I have not; let me have a look at it.” After 
 reading one of the leaders, my attention was drawn to a 
 long article written by the Crimean correspondent of 
 that journal. When I had read it carefully a second 
 time, a few minutes' reflection on my part enabled me to 
 collect my ideas, and established in my mind a certain 
 assurance that I could, if allowed by Government, render 
 service in the cooking of the food, the administration of 
 the same, as well as the distribution of the provisions. 
 
LETTER TO THE " TIMES.” 
 
 5 
 
 These were matters in which I could detect, through the 
 description of that eye-witness, the writer of the above- 
 mentioned article, some change was much needed. I 
 therefore wrote the following letter to the Times , it being 
 then nearly one o’clock in the morning: — 
 
 THE HOSPITAL KITCHENS AT SCUTARI. 
 
 To the Editor of the Times . 
 
 Sir, — After carefully perusing the letter of your correspondent, 
 dated Scutari, in your impression of Wednesday last, I perceive 
 that, although the kitchen under the superintendence of Miss 
 Nightingale affords so much relief, the system of management at the 
 large one in the Barrack- hospital is far from being perfect. I propose 
 offering my services gratuitously, and proceeding direct to Scutari, 
 at my own personal expense, to regulate that important department, 
 if the Government will honour me with their confidence, and grant 
 me the full power of acting according to my knowledge and expe- 
 rience in such matters. 
 
 I have the honour to remain, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 Feb. 2, 1855. A. Soyer. 
 
 After despatching this letter, I again inquired about 
 my friends and my anticipated supper, which for some 
 time had escaped my memory. " Did you ring, sir ?” 
 
 "No, I did not, sir, but the bell has;” recognising 
 my stupid waiter. 
 
 " Oh, sir ! are you here ?” 
 
 " Of course I am ; don’t you see me ?” 
 
 "Well, sir, your friends have had supper; they in- 
 quired everywhere for you ; I told them you could not 
 wait, as you had two ladies to see home as far as 
 Brompton.” 
 
 "You foolish fellow ! I never spoke to you about ladies, 
 Brompton, or any such thing; I merely asked you where 
 my friends were to sup ; to which you replied, c Rump- 
 steak for two, tripe for one, two taters, pat of butter, 
 one pale Bass, and three kidneys for a gentleman, under- 
 done.’ ” 
 
 "No more you did, sir. It was number three who 
 told me to say so; not you, sir; you’re quite right, 
 sir !” 
 
6 
 
 LITTLE JACK. 
 
 “ I am sure I am right ; but as for you, your head is 
 quite wrong !” 
 
 “ Well, I assure you, sir, we have so much to do at 
 times, we hardly know what we are about.” 
 
 “ I don't think you do,” said I, sharply. 
 
 “ But I tell you what, sir, they are there still, and you 
 had better go to them.” 
 
 “ No, it is too late now ; give them this note from 
 me when they go out ; and here is sixpence for yourself, 
 for through your mistake you have after all rendered 
 me a service. I did not wish to come here this evening, 
 as I have an early engagement for to-morrow, so I will 
 have a bit of supper and go home.” 
 
 “Well, do, sir; I thank you, and am very glad T have 
 given you satisfaction at last.” 
 
 “ Send Little Jack here ; he knows what I like for 
 supper.” 
 
 “ Hallo, Mr. Soyer, everybody in the coffee-room 
 has been inquiring after you this evening,” said Little 
 Jack upon entering. 
 
 “ I know ; but that foolish waiter who was here just 
 now made such a mull of everything, that he quite 
 upset our party; I could not get any answer from him, 
 so I made sure this table was laid out for us, and here 
 I stuck.” 
 
 “ No, sir, your friends supped in the coffee-room, and 
 are still there, if you like to have your supper near 
 them.” 
 
 “No, no; give me what you like here.” 
 
 “What shall it be, sir? oysters, broiled kidneys, 
 chops, steaks, stewed tripe, broiled bones ?” 
 
 “ Have you nothing else?” 
 
 “Yes, sir, grilled fowl and scalloped oysters; only 
 they will take some time preparing.” 
 
 “Well, give me scalloped oysters, and my favourite 
 Welsh rare-bit, made in my style — you know; a pint of 
 port wine, and fresh toast for the rare-bit.” 
 
 “ Yes, sir ; the cook knows — I'll tell him it is for 
 you.” 
 
 But how is it you never vary your supper bill of 
 
 <e 
 
THE MOMENTOUS QUESTION. 
 
 7 
 
 fare? it is very scanty of choice for such a* large tavern 
 as this. I do not mean to complain, but give a little 
 change now and then, by introducing a few new dishes.” 
 “ Ah ! you’re right, sir ; it would please the customers, 
 and be much better for us waiters, to have some- 
 thing new to offer; but, bless you, sir! I have been many 
 years in this place, and it was always the same ; and no 
 doubt will remain so for as long again, unless a gentle- 
 man like you takes it in hand — they would then attend 
 to it ; but, of course, you have something else to do.” 
 “So I have; yet I don’t see why, in my next book 
 upon cookery, I should not devote a few pages to the 
 London suppers. I intend doing so, and, when pub- 
 lished, I shall be happy to present you with a copy/' 
 
 “ That will be first-rate, sir ; I thank you, and wont I 
 recommend the new dishes a la Soyer, as some of our 
 customers call them !” 
 
 “Well, my man, upon second thoughts, as you seem 
 so anxious about it, and I am not going to join my 
 friends, give me a pen and ink, and while supper is 
 preparing, I will write a few practical receipts, which 
 can be easily introduced without interfering with your 
 duty or the kitchen; they will, no doubt, prove agreeable 
 to your customers, who are in general a class of loro 
 vivants, fond of good things as well as of variety in the 
 bill of fare.” 
 
 “ Here is the pen, paper, and ink, sir.” 
 
 “ Thank you ; come again in about twenty minutes, 
 and they shall be ready ; or, if you are not in a hurry, 
 stay.” 
 
 “No, sir, I am not; our supper business is over.” 
 “Well, now listen: first, I do not intend to criticise 
 your bill of fare, which is as much varied, if not more 
 so, than that offered at other large taverns, and it is 
 quite as well executed. Now, respecting kidneys — you 
 consume a large quantity of them?” 
 
 “So we do, sir.” 
 
 “ Then I will give you a receipt or two for dressing 
 them: — 
 
8 
 
 A RECEIPT. 
 
 No. 1. — Take two kidneys, split them lengthways as close to the 
 sinew as possible without parting them ; remove the thin skin, lay 
 them flat upon the table, and season rather highly with salt and 
 pepper ; then run them crossways upon a wooden, metal, or silver 
 skewer, forcing the sinew upwards ; this will prevent their curling 
 up again while cooking. Next dip them in some well-beaten eggs, 
 to which you have added about a table-spoonful of dissolved butter ; 
 or rub them over with a paste-brush, which will do it more equally ; 
 roll them in fine bread-crumbs, and slightly beat them on both sides 
 with the flat of your knife to cause the crumbs to stick to the 
 kidneys. Put them upon the gridiron, over a sharp fire, at a proper 
 distance; they will require from five to eight minutes doing, according 
 to size. 
 
 For the uninitiated, the following plan is the best to ascertain 
 when they are properly done. Press with the prongs of a fork 
 or the point of the knife upon the thick part of the kidney ; if 
 done through, it will feel firm and elastic to the touch. When the 
 kidneys are done, slip them off* the skewer on to a hot dish, and 
 place in each a piece of butter, a la maitre d'hdtel, about the 
 size of a small walnut ; send to table, and by the time it reaches 
 the guest, the butter will be half melted; quite so when the kidney 
 is cut by the customer, who, by turning the pieces and blending 
 the butter with the gravy, will make a rich sauce, and partake of a 
 delicious as well as a wholesome dish. 
 
 “ Partaking of overdone kidneys at night is the fore- 
 runner of the nightmare.” 
 
 “You're right, sir; that it is,” said Little Jack; 
 “ for at times we have some left, and keep them 
 warm for supper ; and they get as tough as pieces of 
 leather, when after eating three or four — and I am 
 always very tired at night — I never can sleep. Now 
 I think of it, the tough kidneys must be the cause; 
 and if I do sleep, Mr. Soyer, I have such awful dreams 
 that I feel more fatigued when I rise than when I go to 
 bed." 
 
 “ Of course,” I replied, “ I am well aware of that ; 
 they cannot digest ; therefore, you see the importance of 
 having them properly done.” 
 
 “Very much so indeed; I quite understand it now, 
 and perceive that if they cannot at all times be done to 
 perfection, underdone is much preferable to overdone. 
 I perfectly understand you, sir ; but you see we require 
 such a quantity.” 
 
 “Well, I have only given you the receipt for two. 
 
KIDNEYS BY THE HUNDRED. 
 
 9 
 
 I will now, if you like, give you the receipt for a 
 hundred.” 
 
 “ Do, sir ; that will suit us better.” 
 
 “ I suppose they are most in request for supper ?” 
 “Indeed they are, sir.” 
 
 “Then, in the course of the day, the cook should 
 prepare a hundred precisely as the first — viz., ready for 
 cooking. They should be put upon skewers, two, three, 
 or four in a row ; so that, when called for, he has only 
 to remove them from the larder to the gridiron. About 
 two pounds of butter a la maUre d’liotel should be pre- 
 pared and kept in a cool place to be ready when required. 
 By following this plan, you could easily cook several 
 hundred during the evening, if called for. Should any 
 remain unsold, they will keep till the next day, and will 
 only require rolling in the crumbs again previous to 
 broiling.” 
 
 “ I see, sir ; it will save a great deal of time by having 
 them prepared beforehand.” 
 
 “ But suppose you had none prepared beforehand, a 
 dozen can soon be got ready by an active cook. The 
 addition of the dissolved butter to the eggs keeps the 
 kidneys fresh and moist, and inserting them upon the 
 skewer retains them flat, and they are cooked more 
 regularly in half the time ; while without the skewer 
 they curl up, and are frequently underdone on one side 
 and cooked too much on the other.” 
 
 “ I plainly understand what you mean.” 
 
 “These details upon the same subject are perhaps 
 tedious to you.” 
 
 “Not at all, sir ; I see the importance of them.” 
 “Well, the other receipts will come quite plain and 
 easy to you. To tell the truth, I have had those over- 
 done kidneys upon my conscience for some time. Mind, 
 I do not intend to erase the plain broiled kidneys from 
 the supper bill of fare, for I am very fond of them when 
 properly cooked.” 
 
 “ They are very good ; and many gentlemen will not 
 have them any other way.” 
 
 "Well, I do not blame them, for they are both agree- 
 
10 
 
 A LA ROBERTO DIAVOLO. 
 
 able and nutritious that way ; but here is another appe- 
 tizing receipt, which we will call a la Roberto Diavolo.” 
 
 No. 2. — Put two plain kidneys upon a skewer, and with a paste- 
 brush butter them over. Set them upon the gridiron as near the 
 fire as possible, for they cannot be done too fast ; turn them every 
 minute, and when half done season with salt, pepper, and a small 
 spoonful of cayenne ; chop some gherkins and a little green chillies, 
 if handy 5 or, instead of either, a table-spoonful of chopped picolilli 
 with the liquor. Put these on a hot plate, with a tea-spoonful 
 of lemon -juice and a pat of butter. Take up the kidneys, and slip 
 them burning hot from the skewer to the plate ; turn them round 
 four or five times in the mixture, and serve immediately. A small 
 piece of glaze added to the butter will prove a great addition. 
 Three, four, or five minutes will do them, according to the size. 
 
 Kidneys a la brochette , Paris fashion. 
 
 The Parisian gourmet would not eat a kidney if it was not served 
 upon the silver skewer ; the only merit of which is, that they keep hot 
 longer and look better than when the skewer is omitted ; as they 
 often shrink, especially if the sinew has not been properly divided 
 in the splitting of them. 
 
 “As, no doubt, you have something to do, you had 
 better leave me ; I will write a few more receipts. Bring 
 me my supper in a quarter of an hour, and they will be 
 ready.” 
 
 “Very well, sir; I will give a look round and order 
 your supper.” 
 
 To the minute Little Jack walked in with the scal- 
 loped oysters, which I must admit looked remarkably 
 tempting. He handed me my supper, but upon reflection 
 I did not hand him the receipts, only a list of their 
 names, intending to put them into the cookery-book I 
 had promised him, knowing well enough that it was not 
 in his power to bring them out. He thanked me for 
 my lecture on cookery, as he called it, and the following 
 bill of fare. I paid my bill, and left. 
 
 New Pill of Fare for Tavern Suppers. 
 
 Rump-steak and fried potatoes ; ditto with shalot, pimento, and 
 anchovy butter. Relishing steak, fillet of beef, h la Parisienne ; ditto 
 & la Chateaubriand. 
 
 Mutton chops & la bouchere ; ditto semi-pro ven£ale ; ditto Mar- 
 seilles fashion ; ditto with relishing sauce. 
 
SUPPER BILL OF FARE. 
 
 11 
 
 Plain cutlets with fried potatoes, a la maitre d’hotel, a la Sultana, 
 semi-proven^ale. 
 
 Lamb chops a la boulangere, a l’Americaine, a la printaniere. 
 
 Pork chops with pimento butter, a la Tartare ; ditto campiasliion. 
 
 Yeal cutlets en papillote; with maitre d’hdtel butter; with 
 relishing butter ; with fried potatoes. 
 
 Kidneys on toast, semi-curried ; ditto with sherry or port ; ditto 
 with champagne. For kidneys a la maitre d’hotel, a la brochette, 
 and a la Boberto Diavolo, see Beceipts, page 10. 
 
 Stewed and curried tripe ; ditto Lyonnaise fashion. 
 
 Lobsters au gratin in the shell ; scalloped ditto ; curried on toast ; 
 lobster cutlets ; new salad, Tartar fashion ; plain salad with anchovies ; 
 crabs au gratin in the shell ; crab salad with eggs. 
 
 Grilled chicken and Sultana sauce ; a la Boberto Diavolo, with 
 relishing sauce; new broiled devil, Mayonnaise sauce; chicken, 
 American fashion. 
 
 Stewed oysters on toast; ditto American fashion, au gratin; 
 fried oysters. 
 
 Omelettes with fine herbs, mushrooms, sprue grass, ham, and 
 parmesan; poached eggs with cream; ditto with maitre-d’hdtel 
 sauce ; semi-curried, with ham or bacon. 
 
 Buttered eggs with mushrooms, sprue grass, ham with shalots, 
 parsley, and chervil. 
 
 Mirrored eggs with tongue, ham, or bacon ; curried eggs ; ditto 
 with onion sauce and tomato sauce. 
 
 Barebit a la Soyer with sherry or champagne. 
 
 Fried potatoes in slices ; ditto with mattre-d’hdtel butter ; ditto 
 with Cayenne pepper. 
 
 Cold asparagus salad, while in season ; new potato salad, German 
 fashion ; ditto, French and haricot beans. # 
 
 For receipts in Bill of Fare, see Addenda. 
 
 A Hansom cab was waiting at the door, so I jumped in. 
 “ Beg your pardon, sir, I am engaged,” said cabby ; 
 
 * He also approved of my observation, that I was well aware that 
 people could not expect to find those dishes on the bill of fare every 
 day, but only one or two nightly. To insure success, I would advise 
 the proprietors of all extensive supper-houses to adopt the plan I so 
 successfully introduced at the Beform Club many years since, which 
 was to make a small bill of fare of eight or ten dishes which were 
 ready, and cross out such as run short during the evening, recom- 
 mending only those which remained. This saved time, words, and 
 confusion ; besides giving an opportunity of introducing one or two 
 novelties daily, which would pay well if properly attended to. It 
 would also gratify the consumer, who should not be kept waiting for 
 his supper till fresh provisions were sent for and cooked, as at that 
 hour many persons would content themselves with a less variety of 
 dishes rather than wait. 
 
12 
 
 HOME AT LAST. 
 
 “ but if you’re not going far, I think I shall have plenty 
 of time to take you.” 
 
 “ Do so, my man ; I live close by, in Bloomsbury- 
 street, Bedford-square. Here’s a shilling for you — go 
 ahead, cabby.” 
 
 Pst ! pst ! and off we were. In a few minutes, thanks 
 to the evaporation of the thick fog and its having left 
 only a feeble skeleton of its former substance, I found 
 myself at my street door, and was trying for some time 
 to open it with the wrong key, all the while thinking to 
 myself what an extraordinary and uncomfortable evening 
 I had passed to return so late. Perceiving my mistake, 
 I changed the key ; opening and shutting the door 
 violently, I rushed up stairs with the intention of booking 
 that evening in my daily tablet as one of the most 
 tedious and uncomfortable I had spent throughout the 
 series of cheerful years granted to me by a Supreme 
 Power. The fire was out, the supper divided between 
 my two friends the Angola cats, the servants in bed, 
 the gas turned off, and the lucifers, I believe, gone to 
 their Mephistophelian domain. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 BY RAIL AND COACH TO VIRGINIA WATER. 
 
 An early visit — Virginia Water — An eccentric friend — Rail v. coacli 
 — Humour of the road — The old coachman — The widow — 
 Sally’s trouble — Another surprise — The “ Wheatsheaf ” — Beauti- 
 ful scenery — Letter from the Duchess of Sutherland. 
 
 A most curious dream haunted my mind throughout 
 the night, one of those indescribable phantasmagorian 
 illusions which set all the vibrations of the heart at 
 work without moving the frame, or in imagination only, 
 quite depriving our senses for the time of the true sense 
 of existence. Scarcely had the first gleam of Aurora 
 peeped through my curtains, than a double knock was 
 heard at the street door, apprising me that the time for 
 rising had come, and forthwith brought back my wan- 
 dering senses to the realities of human life : a minute 
 after, a friend popped into my dressing-room, exclaim- 
 ing, “ Hallo ! so you are going to the seat of the war. 
 
 I hear.” 
 
 “ The seat of the war ! who told you so ?” 
 
 “Why, the Times , to be sure; I have just read your 
 letter, which, at all events, is very likely to carry you as 
 far as Constantinople.” 
 
 “ You don’t say so ! What ! is my letter in the Times 
 to-day?” 
 
 “ Of course it is,” he replied. 
 
 “ I sent it so late last night, I did not suppose it could 
 appear till to-morrow, if at all.” 
 
 “ They would not have inserted it, arriving so late, I 
 assure you, had they not thought it of great importance, 
 and that you were likely to improve the hospital diets. No 
 doubt you will soon set them to rights. I read the article, 
 and must say I was much pleased when I saw your letter, 
 
14 
 
 A PIC-NIC. 
 
 and that is what brought me here so early : but mind, 
 it is a long journey, and rather a dangerous one.” 
 
 "Well, my dear friend, if Government honour me 
 with their confidence, I shall be happy to start imme- 
 diately, and rough it for a short time — say a couple of 
 months, which will be about the time required.” 
 
 "My opinion is, that you will soon hear from the 
 authorities.” 
 
 "I say again, they are perfectly welcome to my 
 humble services.” 
 
 "Are you going out this morning?” 
 
 " Yes, I am ; excuse my shaving.” 
 
 "Oh, by all means; which way are you going?” 
 
 " Anywhere but to a wintry place.” 
 
 " Where’s that — Gravesend or Margate ?” 
 
 "Oh dear, no — Virginia Water.” 
 
 "To stay?” 
 
 "No; only to settle a few important matters there, 
 prior to my departure for Paris.” 
 
 "You were there the best part of last summer.” 
 
 " So I was; who told you that?” 
 
 " Don’t you recollect the party you gave there, when 
 
 Messrs. R and ladies were present, with myself, 
 
 my wife, and two daughters ? We never enjoyed such a 
 day in our lives; it really was a splendid affair alto- 
 gether; and what an excellent dinner you gave us in 
 the open air, in the long avenue of beech trees facing 
 the lake ! I shall not forget it as long as I live — I may 
 say we, for my young ones often talk about it. There 
 were about twenty-four guests — you recollect, of course?” 
 " Certainly I do now, and what a lovely day it was !” 
 " Never saw a finer,” said my friend ; " the ladies 
 walked round the lake without their bonnets, and with 
 nothing but their parasols to screen them from the sun. 
 But I tell you who was most amusing amongst the 
 party — that old Yorkshire farmer.” 
 
 " Ha, ha ! old Lawrence — he is a squire now, if you 
 please, and has retired. He was very kind to me on the 
 occasion of the grand agricultural dinner at Exeter ; the 
 ox I roasted whole upon that occasion came from his farm ; 
 it was roasted by gas, and in the castle yard.” 
 
SOUP FOR THE POOR. 
 
 15 
 
 “Ah, I recollect seeing an engraving of it in the 
 Illustrated London News ; I can’t help laughing when I 
 think of the old man, for at every fresh dish of which 
 he partook — and he tasted a good many — he exclaimed 
 — ‘Well ! hang me, if I know what stuff I am eating, 
 but it’s precious good !’ ” 
 
 “ I know he is very eccentric ; he stayed with me 
 nearly a week, and really made me laugh heartily with his 
 genuine repartee. He is a good and a charitable man, I 
 assure you. I taught his housekeeper how to make 
 cheap soup while I was at his residence, and ever since 
 the old gentleman has given it four times a-week to the 
 poor round his small estate, during the winter season.” 
 
 “ I know the soup you mean. I cut the receipt from 
 the paper in the year ’47, at the time of the famine in 
 Ireland, when you were sent there by Government.” 
 
 “ Exactly.” 
 
 “We tried it ourselves; and my wife’s mother has 
 ever since given it throughout the winter to about twelve 
 or fifteen poor people. The old lady was at first obliged 
 to make it herself, her cook saying that no soup could be 
 made with such a small quantity of meat. She would 
 not even attempt to make it.” 
 
 “ I believe you ; but those people are not aware that 
 in Scotland, where the strongest people in the British 
 dominions are to be found, and especially in the High- 
 lands, they live principally upon oatmeal porridge and 
 vegetables, partaking of a very small portion of animal 
 food ; — and did you ever see a finer carnation cheek, or 
 purer blood, than that which flows through the frame of 
 a Scotch lassie, or in the veins of the descendants of the 
 Bruce ?” 
 
 “No, never; not even on the Continent. But, to 
 return to the receipts : I would advise you to publish 
 them. They would be eagerly purchased, and would 
 render greater service. You must be aware that a slip 
 from a newspaper is often lost.” 
 
 “Very true; and I intend to give a series of new 
 receipts on food for the poor, still more simplified.”^ 
 
 * For Receipts, see Addenda. 
 
16 
 
 A HOUGH DIAMOND. 
 
 “ With reference to our conversation about old 
 Lawrence : no doubt he is a good fellow, and a genuine 
 rough diamond into the bargain” 
 
 " Yes,” said I, “and you may add, of the finest water. 
 By the bye, didn’t he go to bed rather top-heavy?” 
 
 “ Ah, that he did, and fancied himself at home blowing 
 up his old woman, as he calls her, for having let the cat 
 into the dairy, and being unable to find his gun to shoot 
 her. What most astonished the old boy, he told me on the 
 coach next morning on our way to London, was having 
 no headache and feeling as hungry as a hunter — as I did 
 myself. He made sure, after such a mixture of dishes, 
 wines, liquors, and spirits of all kinds, that he should be 
 ill and unable to eat anything for a couple of days. Quite 
 the contrary, however : when at Staines, we made a 
 hearty breakfast at the hotel ; and for my part, I never 
 felt better in my life.” 
 
 “ And do you know,” I replied, “ I should have been 
 surprised if my dinner had produced the contrary 
 effect; rest assured, that a dinner well conceived and 
 properly executed, coupled with well-selected beve- 
 rages, is more than half digested. As Hippocrates says, 
 very justly, 'What pleases the palate nourishes;’ and 
 we may add, greatly helps to accelerate the digestion 
 when properly cooked. The palate alone can relish the 
 charm of degustation, and only feels satiated when the 
 stomach, being the working organ, refuses to deal with 
 improper food, never failing to acquaint you physically of 
 its ill treatment, both as regards ill-cooked food or bad 
 beverages. Now, to illustrate this argument more for- 
 cibly, I would wager that I could give a first-class 
 indigestion to the greatest gourmet , even while using the 
 most recherche provisions, without his being able to detect 
 any fault in the preparation of the dishes of which he had 
 partaken ; and this simply by improperly classifying the 
 condiments used in the preparation ; thus deceiving 
 the cleverest doctors and the finest palate by a mere 
 counterbalance of unctuous seasoning, which no doubt 
 caused the celebrated Leibnitz to say, in his treatise upon 
 the chemistry of food, now translated into English, and 
 
THE SCIENCE OF COOKETIV. 
 
 17 
 
 to which I have already referred in my Shilling Cookery 
 Book, 'That among all the arts known to man, there is 
 none which enjoys a j aster appreciation, and the products 
 of which are more universally admired, than that which 
 is concerned in the preparation of our food. Led by an 
 instinct which has almost reached the dignity of con- 
 scious knowledge, as the unerring guide, and by the 
 sense of taste, which protects the health, the experienced 
 cook, with respect to the choice, admixture, and prepara- 
 tion of food, has made acquisitions surpassing all that 
 chemical and physiological science have done in regard 
 to the doctrine or theory of nutrition/ ” 
 
 “ Well, no doubt if the celebrated Leibnitz, who is con- 
 sidered one of the greatest authorities of the age, says so, 
 you cannot be wrong, having had so much practice in the 
 culinary art.” 
 
 “ I also maintain that with the simplest and cheapest of 
 all aliments, when in good condition, I have turned out a 
 most wholesome and palatable food, quite worthy of the 
 most refined palate, or of that of the initiated epicure. For 
 instance, if only first-class provisions could be converted 
 into succulent dishes, the gastronomic bill of fare of this 
 sublunaiy world would indeed be so limited that more 
 than two -thirds of its inhabitants would be classified as 
 martyrs to the Mageric art — or, more plainly speaking, 
 martys to the science of cookery — a too often neglected 
 art, though of daily requirement ; for, believe me, the 
 everlasting pleasures of the table, which favour all ages, 
 arc not only the basis of good health when properly 
 managed, but also the soul of sociability, not merely in 
 high circles, but in every class of society, no matter 
 how humble, the stomach of each individual having 
 been nursed according to rank and wealth. Those most 
 to be pitied are the real epicures of limited means, or 
 the wealthy man without appetite or of bad digestion. 
 The proverb is quite correct, ' What the eye does not 
 see the heart cannot grieve ;* and appetite being the 
 best of sauce, will cause the coarsest food to be digested 
 with delight by a robust stomach. By the same rule, 
 what is more relished by our noble epicure than a dry 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 OFF TO THE STATION. 
 
 sandwich or a coarse crust of bread and cheese at a farm- 
 house after a hard day’s sport V' 
 
 “ Upon my word, you are perfectly right ; appetite is 
 really the best of sauce, for I often make a good and 
 hearty supper upon baked potatoes, a little salt, and 
 butter” 
 
 “ Now, my friend, I am ready to start ; come with me 
 — it is a fine frosty morning, and will do you good — 
 come on.” 
 
 “ I wish I could, but my City business is very heavy 
 this morning, so I must decline ; besides, we have a 
 railway meeting called for three o’clock at the London 
 Tavern.” 
 
 “ Master, here’s a Hansom coming this way ; shall I 
 call it?” 
 
 “ Yes, Annette, that’s a good girl.” I shook hands 
 with my friend, and jumped into the cab — “ I say, coach- 
 man, look sharp and drive to the W indsor railway station ; 
 I fear I shall miss the special train.” 
 
 “ No, you will not,” said my friend, looking at his 
 watch, “ you have full twenty minutes ; good-bye, a 
 pleasant journey.” 
 
 “ Well, adieu ! I shall see you some evening at Jullien’s 
 or Drury Lane Theatre.” 
 
 “ Yery probably.” 
 
 “ Stay a minute, cabby;” — to the servant — “ Annette, 
 put any letters which may come on my desk ; if any- 
 body calls, say I shall be here to-morrow or next day at 
 the latest.” 
 
 * “ Yery well, sir, I will do so.” 
 
 On my arrival at the station, I merely had ^time to 
 take my ticket and run to the train, which was just on 
 the move. In a few seconds we were flying over rows of 
 houses like vampires, leaving the then desolate Loyal pro- 
 perty, Vauxhall tumble-down theatre, with its skeleton 
 firework frame, on the left. We passed through Chiswick, 
 Barnes, Mortlake, Kew, with its toyish pagoda, leaving 
 to the left Richmond, with its picturesque banks, cheerful 
 villas, heroine of the hill, and its exquisite maids of 
 honour ; at the same time crossing the Thames, cheerfully 
 
THE TOP OP THE COACH. 
 
 19 
 
 smiling beneath us in its serpentine bed. Its limpid 
 currents flowed merrily downwards to the mighty ocean 
 through green bushes, aquatic plants, and the alabaster- 
 coloured plumage of hundreds of swans. In twenty-five 
 minutes we arrived at Staines station. I descended and 
 immediately ascended again, but on the top of the 
 Virginia Water coach, which generally waits for the 
 special train. “ Very frosty this morning, coachman.” 
 
 “ Hallo, Mr. Soyer ! is that you? We have not seen 
 you God knows how long. I suppose you have left us 
 for good now ?” 
 
 “No, not quite; but your flat and unpicturesque 
 country looks so dull and unsociable at this time of 
 year.” 
 
 “ Then you prefer town just now ?” said he. 
 
 “ I certainly do; there is always something to be seen 
 there, and to keep one alive, morning, noon, and night.” 
 “Very true, Mr. Soyer; we are very dull here in 
 winter.” The top of the coach was loaded with pas- 
 sengers. “ Well, boy, what are you about below?” 
 
 “ All right, coachman,” cried the parcel-boy. “ Pst ! 
 pst ! Go it, my Britons !” 
 
 We were now at full trot, the north wind in our faces, 
 and a kind of heavy sleet, which in a few minutes 
 changed the colour of our noses to a deep crimson, very 
 much like the unfashionable colour of beet-root, freezing 
 our whiskers and moustaches like sugar-candy, but by 
 no means quite so sweet-tasted. By way of a joke, I 
 said to the coachman, “ This is the good old English way 
 of travelling, is it not ?” 
 
 “ That it is, sir ; and Pm very glad to see you know 
 how to appreciate it. Talk about your railways, iPs 
 perfect nonsense compared with a good four-in-hand 
 coach, sir.” As he said this, he whipped his horses. 
 “ Pst ! go ahead, my true blue ! I recollect the good 
 old time when we took from fourteen to fifteen hours 
 from London to Dover, changing horses and drinking 
 your glass of grog at almost every inn on the road — 
 in fact, enjoying ourselves all night, especially when 
 the widow was out.” 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 THE WIDOW, 
 
 “ What widow ?” said I. 
 
 “ The moon, to be sure !” 
 
 “ That is a bright idea of yours. I was not aware the 
 pale queen of night was a widow.” 
 
 “ Lord bless you, sir, she must be a widow, for she 
 always comes out alone, and keeps very late hours ; a 
 maid or a married woman can't do that, you know,” 
 said he, laughing heartily. 
 
 “If your remark is not correct, it is at all events 
 very original.” 
 
 “ But to come back to coach-travelling — then you 
 really knew if you were travelling or stopping at 
 home; while now they pack you up under lock and 
 key, in strong wooden boxes, such as we keep our 
 horses in at the stable ; and at the head of them they 
 have a kind of long iron saveloy, full of nothing, which 
 runs away with the lot like mad, belching and swearing 
 all the way, taking sights at us poor coachmen just 
 so,” putting his hand to his nose, “ when we go by, as 
 though we were a set of ragamuffins. Call that a 
 gentlemanly way of travelling, sir ! They make fun 
 of all the passengers who are a little behind time, saying 
 the like of this : c Don't you wish you may get it ?' If 
 you drop anything by accident, the deuce a bit will they 
 stop to pick it up ; and you are no sooner in than they 
 turn you out, and pocket your money without blushing, 
 the same as though they had dragged you about from 
 morning till night, as we used to do in the good old 
 time. That was indeed money honestly earned, sir !” 
 
 “There certainly is a great deal of truth in your 
 argument,” said I, laughing at his devotion to his old 
 business. 
 
 “ Is it not brimful of truth, sir ?” 
 
 “ Of course it is !” I was by this time about half 
 frozen. 
 
 “ Ah, sir, you're a gentleman, and know life as well 
 as I do. Depend upon it, sir, coach-travelling is the 
 best after all — no danger of being smashed to pieces or of 
 breaking your limbs. Not the slightest accident ever can 
 happen. Hallo !” said he, stopping the horses short, 
 
A PLEASANT POSITION. 
 
 21 
 
 “ what the deuce is the matter with that horse ? Look 
 out. Bob !” 
 
 “ Yes, sir ; the old trace is broke again.” 
 
 “ The deuce it is ! Well, we must mend it.” 
 
 “ You can't — it's broke in a fresh place, and we have 
 no rope here.” The coachman getting down, uncere- 
 moniously threw the reins to me. “ Hold them fast, sir.” 
 “ Well, well, my lad, you must run back and fetch 
 another.” The snow was then falling heavily, and we 
 had not got more than a mile on the road. In about 
 forty minutes the boy returned, perspiring terribly, 
 though covered with snow. 
 
 “ I've not been long, coachman, have I ?” 
 
 “ Not been long, my lad — why, my cargo is nearly 
 frozen to death !” 
 
 “You're right, coachman,” said an old gentleman. 
 “ And I promise you I will never travel by your coach 
 again. This is the second time this month.” 
 
 “ Well, sir, we are not travelling now — we are at a 
 stand-still, and no mistake.” 
 
 “You may joke, but I don't like it.” 
 
 “No more do I,” said coachman; “so we are of the 
 same opinion.” At this we all laughed, except the old 
 gentleman. 
 
 In a short time all was right again. The coachman 
 had resumed his important position as well as the 
 reins, which I abdicated to my great satisfaction, and 
 we were on the move. “Very slippery, governor; my 
 horses can scarcely keep their feet. Thank God, we are 
 not in a hurry; we can do the journey much more 
 comfortably.” 
 
 “ Excuse me,” said I, “ if I do not hold exactly the 
 same opinion as I did just now about the railway.” 
 
 “ My dear sir, are you in a hurry?” he asked. 
 
 “ Yes, I am, and very cold besides.” 
 
 “ What a pity you did not say so before ! I should 
 have made my stud fly, and beat to atoms that fussy 
 stuff they call steam.” 
 
 “ That's a good man ; show off a bit.” 
 
 “ Pst ! pst ! pst ! Look out for a full charge, Cossack; 
 
22 
 
 A MARVELLOUS STORY. 
 
 fly away, Cannon-ball. Pst ! pst ! that's it, lads." We 
 were now nearly at a gallop. 
 
 “ Coachman/' said I, “ I see that yonr horses have 
 martial names, if they have not a very martial appear- 
 ance. Pray, who gave them such warlike titles 1" 
 
 “ The boys in the stable, sir. Everybody dreams of 
 war now, sir ; the very air we breathe smells of powder. 
 Don't you think so, sir?" 
 
 “ No, I think it smells of cheese." 
 
 “ By-the-bye, there's a basket of cheese for that 
 foreign gentleman who lives at Virginia Water. Jump 
 up, boy, and move that basket of cheese from here." 
 
 We arrived at Wimbledon Common, and stopped to 
 take up parcels and boxes, during which time the coach- 
 man pointed out to the old country gentleman with 
 whom he had the argument, the window of the room 
 where Cournet, the French officer of Marines, and 
 the opponent of Barthelemy, who had just been hanged, 
 died after the Windsor duel. He was saying that since 
 Barthelemy had been hanged the house was no longer 
 haunted, and that the pool of blood, which never could 
 be washed out, had suddenly disappeared. 
 
 “Marvellous!" exclaimed the old gentleman; “I 
 never heard anything like that in my life." 
 
 “No more did I," said our witty coachman, winking 
 at me. The boy now called over the various parcels, and 
 Cossack went off as fast as a cannon-ball. We made 
 a few more stoppages at Englefield Green, to deliver 
 several scolding letters and parcels from mistresses to 
 their servants having charge of the summer abodes of 
 wealthy merchants who reside in London during the 
 winter. At one house, during the unloading of two or 
 three boxes and a child's cradle, a tidy-looking girl, who 
 was waiting till they were taken in, had opened her letter, 
 over which she appeared very sulky. The coachman, 
 perceiving this, said, smiling — “Any answer, Sally?" 
 
 “ No !" said Sally. “ Oh, yes; tell the old lady that 
 I will not live with her any longer ;" and the girl cried. 
 
 “ What's the matter?" said the coachman. 
 
 “ She's an old plague ! there's my Harry of the 46th 
 
HARRY OF THE 46TH. 
 
 23 
 
 has not been here these four months, and she writes to 
 say she hears that he comes every day.” 
 
 “ Of course not — how could he ? he's been gone to the 
 war with his regiment ever since last September.” 
 
 Sally, crying still louder, and wiping her eyes with 
 her apron, exclaimed, “ Perhaps the poor fellow is killed 
 1 y this time, and don't care a fig about me.” 
 
 “Well, well, lass, never mind that; soldiers are used 
 to it.” 
 
 “ Do you think I shall ever see him again, Mr. Coach- 
 man ?” 
 
 “No doubt, my lass, but you must wait a little longer ; 
 and when he does come back, if he has distinguished, 
 instead of extinguished, himself, he will have the Crimean 
 medal, and perhaps be made a colonel — captain — general 
 — marshal — or even a corporal; who knows ? in these war 
 times, every brave man has a chance.” 
 
 “Thank you, Mr. Coachman, you make me very 
 happy — I shan't cry any more.” 
 
 “But, Sally, am I to tell your mistress what you 
 said ?” 
 
 “ Oh, dear, no ! because I should lose my place ; 
 they are not such bad people after all, and master is so 
 very kind to me.” 
 
 “ I shall say nothing about it.” 
 
 “ Pray, say nothing.” 
 
 “ Pst, pst ! now, my true blues, full speed for Virginia 
 Water.” In twenty minutes we were before the very 
 picturesque inn called the “ Wheatsheaf ;” every living 
 soul came out to welcome us, thinking some accident 
 had happened. There was the landlord, landlady, thin 
 and bulky barmaids, house and kitchen maid, cook, pot 
 and post boy, and a number of customers. 
 
 “ What has happened that you are so late to-day ?” 
 said the landlord to the coachman. 
 
 “Nothing particular, governor; only a trace broke, 
 and we had to fetch another : besides, the roads are very 
 slippery.” To the barmaid — “Give us a light, girl, and 
 a go of keep-me-warm.” 
 
 “ Don't believe him, sir,” exclaimed an old lady, who, 
 
24 
 
 THE “ WHEATSHEAE.” 
 
 upon the sudden stoppage when the trace broke, had a 
 quarrel with the coachman. In opening the window 
 violently, she broke it in twenty pieces; popping her 
 head, half of which was covered with snow, out of the 
 window — “ He is a perfect brute,” said she; “ he tried to 
 upset us, and then would not move for above an hour 
 at least — see the state I am in ; is it not a great shame, a 
 woman like me ?” 
 
 “Well, madam,” said the landlord, “why don’t you 
 shut the window ?” 
 
 “ What’s the use of pulling it up ? — it’s broken in a 
 thousand pieces, all through that nasty fellow !” 
 
 “ I can assure you, madam, he bears a very good cha- 
 racter with the gentry about here.” 
 
 The coachman, lighting his short pipe, and coming 
 near them, said, “ Don’t take notice of the old lady, she 
 means no harm.” 
 
 “ Don’t I, though ! I say again, before everybody, 
 you are a brute and a villain !” 
 
 “Go it, marm, go it,” said he, getting up. “It’s 
 nothing new to me — my wife tells me that every day, 
 which is partly the cause we have no family.” The 
 favourite horse language of the coachman was again 
 heard — “ Fly away to the assault like a set of Zouaves !” 
 and in a few minutes nothing but a small black spot, 
 resembling a fly crossing a sheet of paper, was seen 
 running up the snow-covered hill which leads to the 
 small village of Virginia Water. 
 
 I speedily joined the worthy and well-known landlord 
 of the “Wheatsheaf” — Mr. Jennings, and his cheerful 
 wife and barmaid ; all of whom gave me a hearty country 
 welcome, shaking my hands and arms in every direction 
 ad libitum, in anticipation, no doubt, of my remembering 
 them for a few days at all events. At the close of this 
 gymnastic exercise, I requested them to give me some 
 breakfast, in the small pavilion near the garden ; also 
 some pens, ink, and paper. My request was at once 
 attended to. 
 
 “Do you intend to stay with us a few days, Mr* 
 Soyer ?” asked the landlord. 
 
A FRESH SURPRISE. 
 
 25 
 
 “No ; I shall try and get back this evening, if possible 
 — but to-morrow morning, at the latest. I only came 
 to close a few pending accounts of my last summers 
 stay at your lovely Virginia Water, and am going to 
 Paris for the Exhibition, having been offered the super- 
 intendence of a large establishment.” 
 
 “ But I hear that the Exhibition is postponed till next 
 year.” 
 
 “ So it is ; but this is to be quite a new building, and 
 erected close to the Exhibition, if we can get permission 
 granted.” 
 
 “ Good morning, sir ; I shall see you before you leave. 
 I am only going to the farm.” 
 
 “ Yes, you will.” 
 
 I was sitting down to my breakfast, when, to my 
 annoyance, as I had much business to transact, some 
 one knocked at the door, and, without waiting for the 
 reply, came in. It was the landlord, with a face full of 
 anxiety and astonishment, his glasses raised to his fore- 
 head, a newspaper in his hand, and looking as serious as 
 if he had just been married, or had lost one of his favourite 
 pups. “I say, master,” said he, “do you mean it?” 
 
 “ Mean what, man ?” 
 
 “ But now, really ! do you mean it ?” 
 
 “ Pm puzzled to know to what you allude. Is it about 
 my trip to Paris ?” 
 
 “ Paris ! no, that has nothing to do with the letter 
 of yours I have just read in the Times of this day.” 
 
 “ Oh ! now I understand you, and can easily account 
 for your long face and evident astonishment.” 
 
 “ Now you understand me, don't you ?” 
 
 “ Of course I do.” 
 
 “Well, allow me to tell you frankly that you are very 
 foolish ; you are not a military man, and have made the 
 offer, it is true, very likely in a moment of enthusiasm ; 
 but plead any excuse you can to get out of it if you are 
 sent for ; remain where you are — c Good folks are scarce/ 
 says the proverb.” 
 
 “ Thanks to the proverb first, and you afterwards,” 
 said I. 
 
26 
 
 THE LANDLORD’S ARGUMENT. 
 
 “ And if you do go, it is a hundred to one against your 
 returning.” 
 
 “ Many thanks for your frank advice ; but I am 
 determined to go, and if Government send for me, I 
 wish to be ready at a day’s notice ; so sure I am that 
 I can render some services to my fellow-creatures by so 
 doing.” 
 
 “ I have no doubt you can — but you may catch the 
 fever, or God knows what besides ! Why, they are 
 dying by fifties and sixties a-day in the hospital at 
 Scutari ; look, here is the latest account, the names of 
 the poor fellows defunct, and number of their regiments. 
 There is no mistake in that.” 
 
 “ I am aware of all that ; but mind you, my firm 
 belief is, that no fruit falls from the tree to the ground 
 till it is perfectly ripe ; and I also believe that we are 
 never gathered from this frivolous world till we are 
 really wanted in the other.” 
 
 “ Such being your determination, it is no use talking 
 any more about it ; I only hope your health will not fail 
 you, and that you will return and keep us alive as you 
 did last year. I can assure you, your joyful dinner party, 
 or ‘ feet shampeter,’ as Mary the barmaid called it, and 
 you used to say in French, was the talk of the country 
 round. It is only three days ago that Colonel Chol- 
 mondeley was inquiring after you, and asking whether 
 you had left the neighbourhood.” 
 
 “ Ah, really ! how is the Colonel ?” 
 
 “ Fie looks remarkably well, I assure you, and will be 
 very glad to see you.” 
 
 “ When you see the Colonel, pray present my most 
 sincere compliments.” 
 
 ■“So I will.” 
 
 “ I’m off, but hope to see you this evening; good-bye, 
 in case I do not.” The days being short, and my business 
 more complicated than I had anticipa ted, prevented my 
 visiting my favourite summer spot, the Paradis Chamjpetre 
 of England.* 
 
 * This spot is little known to the English in general, and to many 
 who have travelled over the world ; but as no such delightful place 
 
THE SUBLIME AND THE RIDICULOUS. 
 
 27 
 
 I slept that evening at the “ Wheatsheaf I had 
 given orders to he called the next morning at day- 
 break, and was crossing the avenue of lime-trees 
 leading to the lake, in anticipation of witnessing, as 
 I was wont of a summer’s morning, its interminable 
 sheet of silvery waters and green moss velvet banks, 
 sprinkled with myriads of daisies — or stars of the 
 fields — intermixed with golden cups, covered with 
 pearly dew, bordered also by mountainous trees form- 
 ing a formidable forest; the glittering Chinese fishing 
 temple, Corinthian ruin, the flag floating on the castle 
 tower, “ Royal George” frigate and barks, the swans, 
 and the music of thousands of birds with their notes 
 of freedom so wild and full of nature. Alas ! all 
 my illusions were dispelled, as I could scarcely see a 
 yard before me ; a thick veil, caused by a severe white 
 frost, seemed to monopolise and wrap in its virgin folds 
 the beauty of this lovely spot. Though greatly disap- 
 pointed, I was returning to the humble country inn 
 with my soul filled by sublime reminiscences of that 
 charming spot, worthy of the enchanted gardens of 
 Armida, when a deformed and awkward-looking lout of 
 a stableman, peeping from a clump of evergreens, thus 
 accosted me : — “ Will you take a red herring for break- 
 fast, sir?” 
 
 I leave my readers to imagine the effect produced upon 
 my then exalted imagination. Pushing him violently 
 from me, “ Away with you ! unsociable and ill-timed 
 Quasimodo !” I said. Having thus unceremoniously 
 repulsed my evil genius, and being by that electric shock 
 
 exists anywhere hut in England, how can it possibly interest an 
 Englishman ? First of all, it is too close for the wealthy, and too 
 far for the people, being six miles by coach from either Windsor or 
 Staines. During the nve months I spent there last summer, the 
 greatest number of visitors I counted daily was about twenty or 
 thirty round the lake, which is seven and a half miles in cir- 
 cumference. I should also observe that Louis Napoleon, being a 
 man of great taste, has imitated it in the Bois de Bologne as 
 nearly as possible ; and by going there, every Englishman will have an 
 idea of that which he possesses at home, without troubling himself, 
 while in London, to go as far as Virginia Water. 
 
2$ DUCHESS OE SUTHERLAND’S LETTER. 
 
 entirely deprived of my appetite, I ordered a post-chaise 
 in lieu of breakfast, and in a short time was at the 
 turnpike-gate adjoining the inn, waiting for change to 
 pay the toll. It was then about ten minutes to eight 
 o’clock. 
 
 In three-quarters of an hour the post-chaise took me 
 to the railway station, and an hour after I was ascending 
 my homely staircase, when the servant apprised me that 
 many persons had called ; some had left their cards, and 
 a mounted groom had brought a letter, saying he would 
 call at noon for an answer. Amongst the various letters 
 I found upon my desk, I recognised one in the hand- 
 writing of the Duchess of Sutherland. It was as 
 follows : — 
 
 The Duchess of Sutherland will be much pleased to see Monsieur 
 Soyer at Stafford House at two o’clock this day ; or ten to-morrow 
 morning, if more convenient to Monsieur Soyer. 
 
 7th February, 1856. 
 
 I had scarcely read this letter, when a double knock 
 was heard at the street door. It was the footman from 
 Stafford House, sent for an answer. I at once informed 
 him I was going to wait upon her Grace ; but as he 
 was there, he might say that, at two o’clock precisely, 
 I would do myself the honour of attending at Stafford 
 House. Concluding, naturally enough, that the summons 
 had reference to my letter, I immediately began to 
 reflect how I should explain the plan I intended to adopt, 
 in case my services were required. In the first place, 
 I had decided that the most important question of all 
 would be the entire freedom of my actions when I arrived 
 at Scutari. This, of course, could not be granted, unless 
 the Government, impressed with the importance of the 
 subject, thought proper to do so. The active part would 
 easily develop itself to my free and experienced mind. 
 
29 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 A SUMMONS TO STAFFORD HOUSE. 
 
 Stafford House — A distinguished circle — The plan detailed — Its 
 practicability admitted — Home again — Another summons — The 
 War Office — An appointment made — Second interview with the 
 Duchess of Sutherland — Samples of hospital diets — Question of 
 seasoning — New system. 
 
 At ten minutes to two I entered the superb portico of 
 Stafford House, and was shown to the ground-floor 
 library by the Duke's piper, young Mackenzie. “Her 
 Grace will be with you presently/' said he. “Walk in, 
 sir, and I will apprise the Duchess of your arrival ; who, » 
 I am aware, is anxious to see you." 
 
 I thanked him for his politeness, and he left me alone. 
 
 I had scarcely time to cast a glance of admiration 
 upon one of the chefs-d'oeuvre of Landseer, representing 
 the juvenile Stafford family, when her Grace entered, 
 followed by the Duke and Duchess of Argyle, the 
 Marquis and Marchioness of Stafford, the Marquis of 
 Kildare, Lord and Lady Blantyre, her brother, and the 
 children — about eighteen in number — Lady Grosvenor, 
 and others. The Duchess of Sutherland introduced me 
 to the noble circle, and requested all to be seated, which 
 request was at once complied with; and her Grace 
 addressed me in these terms : — “ Monsieur Soj^er, we 
 have read with deep interest your letter which has 
 appeared in the Times , and I cannot but express my 
 admiration of your noble devotion when any good can 
 be effected, or the position of the suffering be relieved 
 or ameliorated by your assistance. The results of your 
 interference would be very important — and especially at 
 the present time — in our hospitals at Scutari, and in the 
 Cr imea, where, in consequence of such unexpected 
 
30 
 
 THE PLAN DETAILED. 
 
 calamities, all is in the greatest confusion. I shall also 
 observe to you, that I am well aware this offer is not 
 your premier coup d’essai , or first trial. But I should 
 advise you to consider the matter well, in case the 
 Government accept your services. Judging from the 
 tenor of the letters I receive daily from various depart- 
 ments at Scutari, I can perceive great difficulties, of which 
 you are perhaps not aware .” 
 
 “Your Grace,” I replied, “is extremely kind to 
 initiate me into the true position of the case ; and first 
 of all, I beg to observe that, were there no great diffi- 
 culties to surmount, I should not have offered my ser- 
 vices. But will you permit me to set forth, in a few 
 words, the plan I propose adopting if Government 
 should honour me with their confidence ?” 
 
 “ Pray do,” exclaimed several of the circle, especially 
 the Duke of Argyle, close to whom I was seated. Looking 
 at his watch, and addressing me, the Duke continued, 
 “ Pray, Mr. Soyer, give me a slight conception of your 
 project, as I have only a few minutes to stay. The Council 
 of the Ministry, of which I am a member, meet in about 
 an hour, and I must be there. I should be very glad to 
 submit your plans to them; it might greatly tend to 
 their adoption.” 
 
 “Very true; your Grace shall judge if they are 
 practicable or not. First of all, I should beg the entire 
 confidence of the Government relative to my actions 
 concerning the culinary department of the hospitals — 
 that is, that they should grant me the power of obtain- 
 ing the necessary articles of food already in the hospitals, 
 3nd other things which might require to be purchased by 
 either the commissariat or purveyor's department, without 
 the slightest delay, as the want of such power would 
 tend to certain failure — which I wish to avoid ; while 
 the possession of their confidence will ensure success* 
 I will then pledge my word to do everything in my 
 power, and with the greatest economy, and, if possible > 
 with the same quantity of provisions as at present 
 allowed by Government, or even less, which would be a 
 source of high gratification to me ; and I sincerely hope 
 

 ITS PRACTICABILITY ADMITTED. 
 
 31 
 
 to be able to do so after the inquiries I made this 
 morning, previous to attending your Graced appoint- 
 ment ; for I perceive, in many instances, that too much 
 is given of one thing, and not enough of another. 
 Having, therefore, the power to vary the ingredients 
 and quantity, as well as to change inferior provisions 
 for better, when possible, will greatly assist me in my 
 undertaking.” 
 
 “ I have no doubt,” said her Grace, “ that what you 
 request will be granted without the least hesitation.” 
 
 “ My plan would also be, never to act without the 
 sanction of the doctor-in-chief respecting the diets I 
 mean to introduce; and I would not interfere in the 
 slightest degree with any former department, or displace 
 a man from his duty except for incapacity, insubordina- 
 tion, or bad conduct ; for believe me, if I am sent to 
 Scutari, I go with the intention of doing all the good I 
 can, and simplifying my difficult undertaking in such a 
 manner as to ensure success. I should also claim the 
 power of being able to condemn inferior provisions, and 
 to substitute better, always without deviating from any 
 army contract which has been, or may be, made by the 
 Government, as I do not mean to hold myself respon- 
 sible for the purchase of any provisions or stores, but 
 merely to give my approval or disapproval of them. 
 Upon my arrival at Scutari, I propose at once to take 
 two hundred patients, and diet them for a week or 
 more, according to the doctor’s approbation, and then 
 gradually increase the number, till I have the whole 
 under my direction, if approved of by the chief medical 
 officer. Such is the plan I propose adopting, arid I 
 shall beg your Grace to give me your opinion upon it.” 
 
 “ The way you intend carrying out your plan seems 
 very practicable/’ 
 
 “Well,” said the Duke, addressing the Duchess of 
 Sutherland, “ you must excuse me leaving now, as I have 
 but a short time to get to Downing-street. Mr. Soyer, 
 I shall have much pleasure in submitting your plan to 
 the Ministerial Council, and will report progress.” 
 
 After the Duke’s departure, a general conversation 
 
32 
 
 ANOTHER SUMMONS. 
 
 was opened upon the subject, and having exchanged a 
 few words with Lord and Lady Blantyre and the 
 Duchess of Sutherland, who kindly promised to acquaint 
 me with the result; I withdrew; and left Stafford House. 
 No sooner home; having obtained the correct ration- 
 scale of provisions from Dr. Andrews’s office; than I 
 formed a very fair idea of what I could do for the best. 
 
 The next morning; February 11th, about ten o’clock, 
 I received the following communication from her Grace : 
 
 The Duchess of Sutherland has just seen his Grace the Duke 
 of Argyle, who has spoken to Lord Panmure upon the subject of 
 Mr. Soyer’s offer. I think Lord Panmure is willing to forward the 
 humane and practical views of Mr. Soyer, and will see Mr. Soyer 
 at the War Office to-morrow. 
 
 The Duchess wishes to have the pleasure of seeing Monsieur 
 Soyer after his visit to Lord Panmure. 
 
 Upon receipt of this letter I immediately went, as 
 desired, to the War Department to see Lord Panmure’s 
 private secretary, Mr. Ramsay, and inquire when and 
 where I could see his lordship. The hearty reception 
 I met with from that gentleman was a most favourable 
 augur, and encouraged me to persist in the very pre- 
 carious undertaking in which I was about to engage, 
 although many friends and near relations strongly tried 
 to prevent me from pursuing it, placing constantly 
 before my eyes the most sinister pictures, which, I am 
 proud to say, never for a moment altered my mind. 
 Having but one object in view, I was determined to see 
 only the best side of the medal, and chance the rest. 
 
 Mr. Ramsay having arranged my interview with 
 Lord Panmure for the next morning, I then retired, 
 thanking him much for his very kind and courteous 
 reception. I went home to test a few samples of diets 
 and aliments I had prepared from the soldiers’ rations ; 
 placing the whole of them in small vases, well packed, I 
 sent them to Stafford House, there to remain till my 
 arrival. In about an hour I had a second interview 
 with the Duchess of Sutherland and a number of her 
 noble family. After speaking of my visit to the War 
 
SAMPLES OF HOSPITAL DIETS. 
 
 3s 
 
 Office, and my appointment with his lordship for the 
 morning, 
 
 “ Lord Blantyre,” the Duchess said, “ has some busi- 
 ness at the War Department to-day, and I shall trouble 
 his lordship to remit another letter from me on the 
 subject to Lord Panmure, who has, at the present time, 
 so much to do that it is likely your interview might be 
 postponed for another day.” 
 
 “ I can assure your Grace that the extreme interest 
 you take in my behalf appears to me a good omen, 
 assuring me of success, in case I should be sent to the 
 seat of war. I would also observe that, being well 
 aware of the value of Lord Panmure’s time, in a few 
 minutes I shall be able to unfold my plan, and he will 
 no doubt at once perceive whether it is practicable or 
 not, and will give me a decided answer ; therefore, to 
 lose time, on either side, would be impolitic. But, 
 before I leave, will your Grace honour me by inspecting 
 a few samples of hospital diets which I have prepared as 
 a test, from the rations as at present given to the soldiers ? 
 They will form part of my new system, if approved 
 by the medical officers.” 
 
 “ Have you some here, Mr. Soyer ?” 
 
 “ Yes, your Grace, I have ; one of the footmen has taken 
 charge of them till required.” 
 
 The order having been given, a footman entered with 
 the samples on a plateau, with spoons, &c., which were 
 tasted by the select and noble party, who at once pro- 
 nounced them very palatable, and to which I remarked, 
 that through the nature of the ingredients they could not 
 fail to be nutritious and light. 
 
 “ It is to be regretted,” I said, “ that the cooks in many 
 hospitals are not allowed to put the seasoning in the 
 savoury diets, which restriction will invariably produce 
 very unsatisfactory results. I will here repeat the saying 
 of Hippocrates : — ■ What pleases the palate nourishes/ If 
 this great man has said so, it is a pity that some of his 
 modern disciples have altered or deviated from such an 
 ancient and just maxim, for I will vouch that a diet properly 
 seasoned is far more generous and invigorating to the 
 
 D 
 
u 
 
 NEW KIND OE EOOD. 
 
 patient than the unpalatable food prepared without any- 
 thing of the sort ; at the same time many maladies will 
 require various degrees of seasoning, as too much in some 
 cases would prove equally if not more injurious than the 
 want of it in others. This point must be left to the doctor's 
 discretion. I am also aware that in some hospitals salt 
 and pepper are allowed, and, I may say, too abundantly; 
 and each patient is permitted to season his food, not 
 according to his taste, but his judgment : this is another 
 evil, as he is or may be at the time entirely deprived of 
 either taste or judgment. These remarks will be the 
 first I shall submit to the notice of the principal doctor, 
 and I am morally certain he will agree with me as soon 
 as they are properly explained." 
 
 “ A most important observation," said the Duchess ; 
 “ for, even when in the enjoyment of good health, what 
 is more disagreeable than an insipid dish ?" 
 
 “ I have always, madame, maintained that the cook 
 must season for guests or patients, and not these for the 
 cook." 
 
 “In fact," said I to the Marquis of Stafford, who 
 had tasted several of the samples, “ does not your lord- 
 ship opine that salt and pepper should be almost 
 excluded from the ward, and that the cook should be as 
 responsible for seasoning the food as the apothecary is 
 for making up the doctor's prescription correctly?" 
 
 “ Certainly ; but can you persuade them to do so ?" 
 
 “ Yery easily; by my system of diet, every recipe will 
 be printed, framed, and hung up in the kitchen, so that 
 any person, even a soldier (provided he can read), will 
 be capable of executing them well, as each receipt will 
 be comprised in a few lines." 
 
 “ Ah ! that will, indeed, be most valuable, and readily 
 applied in every hospital." 
 
 During this conversation, the Duchess of Sutherland 
 and the Marquis of Stafford had tasted another kind 
 of food which I had made for the camp. It was 
 prepared from peas-meal, in which I had introduced a 
 due proportion of salt and pepper, — called “ Symon's 
 ground baked peas-meal," — and by pouring a pint of 
 
ITS ADVANTAGES. 
 
 35 
 
 boiling water upon a good table-spoonful of it, made a 
 most excellent and thick puree of peas quite hot. I one 
 day, as a trial, ate nothing but that and a biscuit, and 
 did not feel the least inclined for anything else. I do not 
 mean to imply that such fare would do for a continuance, 
 but when nothing else could be obtained, it certainly 
 would be a great comfort for the troops to get a hot 
 meal, made in a few minutes, and without trouble. All 
 present tasted this, and expressed themselves very 
 favourably about it. Having also left some samples of 
 coffee, I was retiring, when the Duchess of Sutherland 
 kindly reminded me that she should be happy to see me 
 the morning after my interview with the Minister-at- 
 War. Of course I should not have failed in presenting 
 myself, even without this kind invitation. 
 
36 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 OFF TO THE WAR. 
 
 Reception at the War Office — Full powers granted — The Duke of 
 Cambridge — His chef de cuisine , Comte — Model of a portable 
 camp or field stove — Visit to Lord Shaftesbury — Dr. Andrews — 
 An encouraging porter — Phonetic experiments — Mr. Stafford’s 
 kind reception — Model of the stove inspected by the Duke of 
 Cambridge and by Lord Panmure — Interview with Mr. Brunei 
 — Dr. Mayne — Question of patent — Sir Benjamin Hawes’ office 
 — Stafford House again — Letters of introduction — Honourable 
 Mrs. Herbert — A recreant secretary — Quite at a non-plus — A 
 friend in need — Farewell at London Bridge — Pavilion Hotel, 
 Folkestone, 
 
 At nine o’clock next morning I was at the War Office 
 by appointment. Lord Panmure arrived at half-past, and 
 by the kindness of Mr. Ramsay, who had mentioned my 
 arrival, I was immediately introduced and most cordially, 
 received. After a few words on my part, as I had not 
 had the pleasure of seeing Lord Panmure since I left 
 the Reform Club, he inquired what I proposed doing in 
 respect to the cooking department of Scutari Hospital. 
 Stating briefly that which I had previously explained in 
 detail to the Duke of Argyle when at Stafford House, 
 and with which Lord Panmure seemed to be perfectly 
 acquainted, he said to me, — 
 
 “ You must, after you have done there, go to the 
 Crimea, and cheer up those brave fellows in the camp ; — 
 see what you can do ! Your joyful countenance will do 
 them good, Soyer; try to teach them to make the best 
 of their rations V 3 
 
 I then observed that, first of all, I must try and succeed 
 in the hospitals; secondly, that, if the troops in the 
 Crimea had the same small tin camp-kettle I had seen in 
 the camp at Chobham, it would be impossible for me to 
 improve their style of cooking, as they were much too 
 
INTERVIEW WITH LORD PANMURE. 
 
 37 
 
 small, and burnt too much fuel, more especially in the 
 open air. 
 
 “Well,” said Lord Panmure, “can you substitute 
 anything more applicable for the camp, and which 
 can be easily carried with the regiments while on 
 march ?” 
 
 “ I will set my head to work and try, and if any plan 
 which I consider practicable strikes me, I will have a 
 model of it made, and submit the same for your lord- 
 ship’s approval.” 
 
 “ Well, do.” 
 
 “ With reference to the hospital at Scutari, I believe 
 that is a permanent building, situated near a large me- 
 tropolis, full* of resources, and I have nothing to risk going 
 there and setting to work immediately. I shall start in 
 the full conviction of being able to do some good, if your 
 lordship honours me with your full confidence and grants 
 me the power of acting according to my own judgment 
 in a profession which I have successfully practised for 
 upwards of twenty years.” 
 
 “ Very good, Soyer ! I shall give orders to that effect, 
 and furnish you with letters of introduction to every 
 department.” 
 
 “ Now, I hope you will do me the honour of accepting 
 my services as I offered them, through the medium of 
 the public press ; such acceptance on the part of your 
 lordship will, I can assure you, much facilitate the pro- 
 gress of my undertaking.” 
 
 “ I understand your meaning, Mr. Soyer; but I must 
 make some arrangement for your expenses.” 
 
 “ Those, of course, I shall accept, or I should be 
 giving offence to your lordship as well as the Govern- 
 ment ; more especially as I am, after visiting Scutari, to 
 proceed to the Crimea.” 
 
 “ Well, tell me when you can start, — the mail leaves 
 at noon to-morrow.”* 
 
 “ I should be most happy to leave to-morrow, but 
 previous to my departure for so long and unexpected a 
 journey, I have some important private affairs to settle ; 
 it will therefore be impossible.” 
 
3S 
 
 THE DUKE OE CAMBRIDGE. 
 
 “ Ah, truly ! then I leave it to you, Soyer ; but the 
 sooner you go the better.” 
 
 “ Your lordship may depend upon my anxiety and 
 promptitude; not a day, or even a minute shall be 
 lost/” 
 
 “ Fare you well, Soyer ; come and see me before your 
 departure.” 
 
 u Of course I will; but, begging your pardon, to 
 whom shall I address myself for any further information 
 I may require ?” 
 
 “ To myself, and no one else,” was Lord Panmure’s 
 reply. 
 
 “ I should be sorry to interrupt you in the incessant 
 business you have from morning till night.” 
 
 u My secretary, Mr. Ramsay, will always be here ; 
 but do not hesitate, if you require it, to see me.” 
 
 u I certainly will not.” 
 
 After a few words with Mr. Ramsay upon the subject 
 of my interview, and what was decided upon, I imme- 
 diately went to inform the Duchess of Sutherland of the 
 result of my visit, at which her Grace expressed her 
 gratification, and requested me to call again prior to 
 my departure for the East, stating that she would give 
 me some important letters of introduction to persons 
 at Scutari, which would be most useful to me. After 
 promising to do this, I retired. My intention was then 
 to pay a visit to the Duke of Cambridge, who at that 
 time took great interest in the subject, he having" 
 lately visited the hospital at Scutari, and made important 
 observations upon the system of cooking carried on there. 
 
 As I was on my way to St. James’s Palace, I met his 
 Highness, accompanied by the Honourable James Mac- 
 donald, leaving the house ; and having paid my respects, 
 he inquired if I was going to Scutari, to which I replied in 
 the affirmative. In a few words I gave him the result of 
 my interview with Lord Panmure, and also spoke of the 
 warm interest the Duchess of Sutherland took in the 
 subject. 
 
 “ Yes, I am aware of it,” said he. “ I had the plea- 
 sure of seeing her Grace yesterday.” I then made a few 
 
A PORTABLE CAMP-STOVE. 
 
 39 
 
 inquiries respecting the state of the hospitals there, 
 which his highness very kindly described to me. 
 
 The Duke remarked — “ Your friend Comte will be 
 able to give you all the information you may require, as 
 he was with me at Scutari, and saw all the kitchen de- 
 partment in detail.” 
 
 “ Many thanks, your highness; I shall do myself the 
 pleasure of paying him an early visit.” 
 
 Five minutes after I was with my friend Comte, the 
 Duke of Cambridge^ clief de cuisine , who kindly ini- 
 tiated me into all the doings, both in the camp and in 
 the hospitals on the Bosphorus. This information was 
 of great service to me.* 
 
 Upon leaving my friend I hastily returned home, 
 intending to draw out the plan of a model for a portable 
 camp or field stove, which could also be applied to the 
 use of the hospitals. Having heard that no regular 
 kitchens had been established there, I was anxious to 
 have a simple apparatus to take out with me of which I 
 understood the working, and which might be put in. 
 action immediately on my arrival. In a very short 
 time I hit upon an idea which I thought could be 
 easily carried out, and would answer perfectly. Losing 
 no time, I jumped into a cab and immediately drove 
 to the eminent gas engineers and stove makers, Messrs. 
 Smith and Phillips, of Snow-hill. On submitting my 
 plan to those scientific gentlemen, they pronounced it 
 practicable, and promised me a model, one inch to the 
 foot, to be ready in a day or two. 
 
 Although the snow was falling heavily, I paid an 
 early visit to Lord Shaftesbury, to whom I had the 
 honour of being permitted to dedicate my last work — 
 the “ Cookery for the People.” 
 
 His lordship gave me a most cordial reception, and 
 
 * I have since learned that this gentleman during the campaign 
 did so much good, and was sq earnest in his endeavours to relieve 
 the sufferings of the wounded at the battle of Inkermann, the allied 
 as well as the Russian troops, that I intend to devote a page of this 
 work to him, and also mention the names of the generals and others 
 who spoke in such high terms of his exertions. 
 
40 
 
 THE LEECH MERCHANT. 
 
 was much pleased to hear of my intention of going to 
 the East. Lord Shaftesbury made several useful observa- 
 tions respecting the importance of my mission. I bade 
 him adieu. His lordship kindly wished me all the 
 success I could desire, and said that he should be happy 
 to hear of my proceedings, of which I promised to inform 
 him a short time after my arrival. 
 
 As I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Eamsay to 
 Dr. Andrews, I proceeded to that gentleman’s office, 
 where I found several medical gentlemen waiting, with 
 some of whom I had the pleasure of being acquainted. 
 Others were engaged testing samples of preserved milk 
 in glasses ; and having asked me to test some, I selected 
 one which they all agreed was the best : I believe it 
 turned out to be Gamble’s preserved milk, in tins. My 
 letter of introduction having been given to the doctor, I 
 had an immediate interview. 
 
 After listening to my few inquiries, he kindly wrote 
 me a letter of introduction to Dr. Cumming, the super- 
 intendent at Scutari, and all the hospitals on the Bos- 
 phorus, promising me his support, and requesting that 
 I might have all I required in my department upon 
 application to the purveyor. He then put me in com- 
 munication with a gentleman in charge of the stores, 
 who would give me all the information respecting the 
 kitchen utensils then in use in the hospitals. Having 
 taken notes of everything, I retired perfectly satisfied 
 with the important information I had gathered in so 
 short a time. 
 
 I was well aware of the multiplicity of business daily 
 transacted by the doctor, and the difficulty of obtaining 
 a private interview with him, even on business, as one 
 of the assistant porters told me when I called early one 
 morning, that I might call till doomsday, and not be 
 able to see him. This, of course, I took for granted, 
 as no doubt the doctor would upon this solemn occasion 
 be more engaged than ever. I must, however, observe 
 that he at first took me for a merchant who had 
 been for several years trying to persuade the English 
 faculty to sanction or adopt the use of leeches to the 
 
what’s in a name? 
 
 41 
 
 same extent as is done in France. Not much flattered 
 by the comparison, I wished him better manners for the 
 future. 
 
 “ I beg your pardon, sir ; but not being on the mili- 
 tary list, I did not know you. Why didn’t you tell me 
 you was Monseer Soyewere, then I should have knowed 
 you? Of course, everybody knows you in England, 
 Ireland, Wales, and Scotland.” 
 
 “Well, never mind; but did I not give you my 
 card?” 
 
 “Of course you did; but I could not make out the 
 name of So-ye-were from five such letters as that,” said 
 he, showing my card to some one present. “ Soyer ! 
 surely that never can be So-ye-were !” 
 
 “You spell and write admirably. Thank you for the 
 wrinkle. I shall have my card altered.” 
 
 I told the cabman to drive me to the residence of Mr. 
 Stafford, M.P., at whose chambers I had the day before 
 left a letter of introduction from the Duchess of Suther- 
 land. I had the pleasure of a very interesting interview 
 with that gentleman, who had then just returned from 
 Scutari. Having given me the necessary details of 
 what was most required, and about the number of 
 assistants I should take with me to insure immediate 
 success, he promised to furnish me with several letters 
 of introduction, if I would send or call for them before 
 my departure. 
 
 “ I shall, certainly,” said I, “ much prefer calling, 
 were it only to have the advantage of a little more of 
 your valuable information upon any subject which may 
 strike you after my departure; and I thank you for 
 your kind and valuable suggestions.” 
 
 “ When do you think of starting ?” 
 
 “ In a couple of days at the latest.” 
 
 “Very well; the letters shall be ready without fail, 
 and two or three small parcels, which you will be kind 
 enough to deliver for me — one especially for Miss 
 Nightingale, rather fragile, and which I cannot send 
 by post.” 
 
 “I shall be most happy ; jusqu’au plaisir de vous revoir.” 
 
42 
 
 THE MODEL STOVE INSPECTED. 
 
 I devoted the rest of that day to my private affairs, 
 packing, and paying farewell visits. The next morning, 
 at half-past nine, Messrs. Smith and Phillips, according 
 to promise, brought me a most beautiful small model of 
 the field-stove, which they warranted first-rate, and to 
 be capable of working in or out of doors, and in all 
 weathers. I immediately proceeded to the War-Office, 
 to show the model, and explain the principle to Lord 
 Panmure. In the waiting-room I had the honour of 
 meeting the Duke of Cambridge, which gave me an 
 excellent opportunity of explaining its merits. The 
 Duke appeared to approve of it, and particularly noticed 
 the great economy of fuel consequent upon the construc- 
 tion and smallness of the furnace. The Duke made 
 some important remarks, and gave me a few hints upon 
 the cooking regulations both in the hospitals and in the 
 camps. These I took note of, and after explaining my 
 plan of transport, I was quite delighted at having had 
 such an opportunity of conversing with the Duke on a 
 subject in which I was aware he felt particular interest. 
 Mr. Ramsay, the secretary, having sent for me, I quitted 
 the Duke; and, before leaving, I informed him that I 
 had seen my friend Comte, and that he had given me all 
 the assistance in his power, and had also told me that 
 his highness had presented the hospital with a very 
 nice petite latterie cle cuisine , which, no doubt, I should 
 find very useful upon my arrival. 
 
 “ Adieu, Monsieur Soyer, I wish you well, and hope 
 you will succeed.” 
 
 On reaching Mr. Ramsay's office, that gentleman 
 kindly informed me that if I ’wished to see Lord 
 Panmure I had better wait till he went to take his 
 luncheon. I then stated that my object was to show 
 his lordship the model of a stove I had invented for the 
 use both of the hospitals and the army. 
 
 “Walk into the next room; Lord Panmure will be 
 there in a few minutes, and you will have plenty of 
 time to show it without interfering with his business.” 
 
 I had not waited ten minutes before Lord Panmure 
 came in alone. 
 
FINAL INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 43 
 
 “ Ah, Mr. Soyer, what have you there ?” 
 
 “ The model of a stove I wish to submit to your 
 lordship. It is one which will, I believe, suit admirably 
 for cooking both in and out of doors.” 
 
 After closely examining it, and listening to the 
 details I had previously given to the Duke of Cambridge, 
 Lord Panmure approved of it, and requested me to 
 have another made, which he might keep by him for 
 inspection. 
 
 He then inquired how many cooks I should take 
 with me. 
 
 “ Only a few from Paris,” I replied, “ as I wish to 
 make a trial before engaging many people ; besides, I 
 hope to be able, in a very short time, to instruct the 
 soldiers, who, being under discipline, might prove as 
 useful as any cooks.” 
 
 Lord Panmure seemed pleased at my anxiety to 
 instruct the soldiers ; and, as he very justly remarked — 
 “ W e want them to learn how to cook their rations to 
 the best advantage, and that your instructions should 
 remain for ever among them. Well, I have settled all 
 you wished me to do ; and my secretary, Mr. Ramsay, 
 will remit you all the letters you require. When do 
 you think of starting ?” 
 
 “ By the next mail.” 
 
 “Well!” said his lordship, shaking me heartily by 
 the hand, “ Good-bye, if I do not see you again before 
 your departure.” 
 
 “ It would only be troubling you ; I therefore beg 
 to take this opportunity of thanking your lordship 
 for the kind reception and encouragement I have 
 received, and, still more, for the confidence with which 
 you have honoured me. I assure you that it will cause 
 me to be most careful and economical, and it will be my 
 pride to improve the diet without increasing the expense 
 to Government. This may not be effected at first ; but 
 when the system is once introduced, and fairly established, 
 I will answer for both a great amelioration as well as a 
 saving.” 
 
 “ I am confident, Soyer, that you will do your best.” 
 
MERITS OE THE STOVE. 
 
 44 
 
 “ Your lordship may depend upon me for that, were it 
 only for my own sake.” 
 
 “ Well, write as soon as yon arrive, and let us know 
 how you get on.” 
 
 Upon leaving, I met Mr. Ramsay, and related to him 
 verbatim what had passed between Lord Panmure and 
 myself. I then showed him the model, which he un- 
 derstood perfectly well, and gave me the engineer, Mr. 
 Brunei's, address. I called upon that gentleman, and 
 had the pleasure of an interview. He at once gave his 
 full and entire approval of the principle, saying, “ You 
 really come at a most propitious time; Dr. Mayne 
 and myself are actually busily engaged discussing a 
 plan for establishing kitchens in the Smyrna hospital. 
 Yours will answer very well, and assist us materially, as 
 it is always a tedious department to construct in order 
 to be effective, and work properly. No doubt they 
 will be applicable to every public institution; besides, 
 what a small quantity of fuel they must consume.” 
 
 “ Very little, indeed; and with this simple regulator 
 you may manage the ebullition to a nicety, even in the open 
 air. I shall also beg to remark, that they will be made 
 of a beautiful metal, that will never require tinning ; and 
 the whole, though light in weight, will be extremely 
 strong, and will last several years without needing 
 repairs, or, at least, very trifling ones, that will not 
 interfere with their use fora single day. They will take 
 up but little room, and may be easily kept clean. No 
 bricks are required, no chimney to be swept, and they can 
 be as easily removed as any piece of furniture in your 
 room.” 
 
 “You are perfectly right; and I give you my candid 
 opinion, they are the very stoves required for the purpose. 
 I should like Dr. Mayne to see it ; if you can, call as 
 you go to the War Office, and show him the model. I 
 can then speak with him upon the subject.” 
 
 “ With the greatest of pleasure.” 
 
 As Dr. Mayne had not arrived when I called, I went 
 and fetched a passport for myself, and one for my secre- 
 tary. Upon my return, the doctor had examined the 
 
QUESTION OE PATENT. 
 
 45 
 
 model, and seemed much pleased, saying — “ It will 
 answer very well.” I left the address of the manufac- 
 turers with him, and then retired. They were imme- 
 diately adopted both at Smyrna, and later at Rankioi. 
 
 A gentleman present, who seemed to have taken a 
 great deal of interest in our descriptive conversation, 
 followed me to the door, and, in a low voice, asked if I 
 had taken out a patent. 
 
 “No, I have not; but I shall put my name and label 
 upon them.” 
 
 “Well, if you were to take out a patent, you would 
 make a fortune.” 
 
 “ You may be right ; but upon such an occasion I 
 should fancy myself wrong. I will therefore give it, pro 
 bono publico. I am well aware that by making it more 
 complete I could take out either registration or patent, 
 but I would not do that for the world ; as it would be 
 immediately reported that I expected to be repaid for my 
 services by the profits of the patent of the stove, and upon 
 these grounds I decline any such proceeding.” 
 
 As it was then about three o* clock, I went, by appoint- 
 ment, to Sir Benjamin Hawes* office to bid that gentle- 
 man adieu, and to receive his final orders, showing him 
 at the same time the model, which he seemed to appreciate 
 thoroughly. He gave me the best advice, and promised 
 me his powerful support throughout my culinary cam- 
 paign. In return, I engaged to communicate all my 
 movements, and retired. 
 
 At noon, next day, I again called at Stafford House, 
 “ not by appointment.** On being informed of my visit, 
 the Duchess at once favoured me with an audience. “ I 
 am come,** said I, “ to announce my departure. I wish, 
 ere I leave to-morrow, to thank your Grace, and to show 
 you the model of my new stove which I mean to intro- 
 duce into the hospital kitchens.** 
 
 “ Ah !** exclaimed her Grace, “ I must go and fetch the 
 Duke. He will be highly pleased with it, and he wished 
 very much to see you before your departure.** 
 
 The Duke soon entered the great hall, with a large 
 party, to whom I explained the principle, as I had before 
 
46 
 
 ADIEU TO STAFFORD HOUSE. 
 
 done to the Duke of Cambridge. I also stated that the 
 day previous I had had the honour of showing it to 
 Lord Panmure, and Mr. Brunei, the celebrated engineer, 
 all of whom were much pleased with its efficacy, simpli- 
 city, and economy ; more especially Mr. Brunei, who so 
 highly appreciated the principle of its construction, that 
 he at once adopted it, and applied it to the hospital 
 kitchens at Smyrna and Rankioi, which he was there 
 about to fit up. 
 
 The Duke made many remarks respecting the sim- 
 plicity of its construction and the immense economy 
 of fuel ; “ the transport of which,” I observed, “ was so 
 extremely difficult and costly.” I also remarked that 
 one stove might be placed in a tent or hut containing 
 fifty or sixty men ; and they could cook there without 
 the smallest inconvenience or difficulty, while it would 
 throw out sufficient heat, “ being in use nearly all day, 
 viz., for breakfast, dinner, and tea,” to warm the hut in 
 winter, while in summer it might be turned out of doors. 
 
 Having been complimented by all present, I was about 
 to retire, when the Duchess observed that she had written 
 several letters of introduction for me. “ Among the 
 number,” said her Grace, “ you will find one for Miss 
 Nightingale.” 
 
 I returned my sincere thanks to all present, and in 
 particular to the Duke and Duchess. I assured them 
 that the kindness and great encouragement I had received 
 from them would be for ever engraved in my memory. 
 The Duke remarked that he was very glad to see me in 
 such high spirits. I acknowledged this with a bow. 
 
 “But, Mr. Soyer, suppose you should be taken ill?” 
 said the Duchess. 
 
 “Well, your Grace — cela est a la volonte deDieu — at 
 present I am happy to say I have not any fears on that 
 head, and am quite resigned to whatever Providence may 
 dictate. Once more I beg to reiterate my feelings of 
 gratitude, and bid your Grace and your illustrious family 
 adieu.” 
 
 As it was nearly one o’clock, I called upon Mr. Ramsay, 
 who had all my letters ready. He did me the honour to 
 
A RECREANT SECRETARY. 
 
 47 
 
 introduce me to General Vivian, of the Turkish Contin- 
 gent, and his brother, Captain Ramsay, the general's 
 aide-de-camp. Anticipating the pleasure of meeting 
 those gentlemen in the East, I departed with the best 
 wishes of all. 
 
 Mr. Ramsay gave me a letter for the Honourable Mrs. 
 Herbert, to whom I was anxious to pay a visit, well 
 aware of the important information I could gather from 
 that benevolent lady, who was in constant communication 
 with the hospitals in the East, and also with Miss 
 Nightingale. I was very kindly received ; but, instead 
 of giving me an encouraging prospect of success, that 
 lady very candidly informed me that the number of letters 
 she daily received were most unsatisfactory, and that 
 she did not think it possible for me to restore order in 
 the cooking department at the great barrack hospital. 
 “ The difficulties you will encounter/' said she, “ are 
 incalculable." 
 
 “ So I anticipate," was my reply; “but I must 
 observe, that I love difficulties, in order to surmount 
 them. And with the power so graciously conferred upon 
 me by Lord Panmure, I cannot fail to do some good, if 
 my health does not fail me." 
 
 “I hope," said Mrs. Herbert, “you will succeed, and 
 shall be happy to hear of an amelioration. When do 
 you think of going ?" 
 
 “ To-morrow." Bidding her adieu, and thanking her 
 for her kind reception, I retired. 
 
 On reaching home, I found the promised letters from 
 Mr. Stafford, all my luggage packed, and was on the 
 point of starting, when I learned that the gentleman who 
 was going with me as secretary, and had his passport 
 ready, declined to accompany me. His relations and 
 friends had persuaded him not to go, the fever being 
 so bad there, and so many deaths occurring daily. 
 I was thus placed in an awkward position, and was, 
 moreover, pestered at home by intrusive visitors, and no 
 end of ridiculous letters. I thought of starting alone ; 
 but, upon reflection, I decided upon passing the evening 
 at the Adelaide Hotel, at London Bridge, and in the 
 
48 
 
 OVATION AT THE STATION. 
 
 morning looking out for another party; thus, to my 
 great annoyance, losing another day. To start alone 
 without a first-class companion for so long a journey 
 was a sad affair. I must observe that I had previously 
 engaged two young men, at high wages, as cooks, one of 
 whom declined going to Scutari, but did not mind the 
 Crimea ; the other fell ill. Thus, my prospects on the eve 
 of my departure were anything but favourable. 
 
 Next morning, while driving along Piccadilly, I met 
 a friend, who, in congratulating me upon my proposed 
 journey, and wishing me success in my undertaking, said, 
 
 “ So Mr. L is going with you as secretary, is he not ?” 
 
 “No, he is not ! he has left me in the lurch at the 
 last minute; and, my dear fellow, I can tell you what, 
 there is a chance for you — it is only for two or three 
 months — you will be well paid, and all expenses defrayed.” 
 “ It is very kind of you to make me the offer,” he 
 replied ; “ but I cannot leave my business at a minute’s 
 notice. How long could you give me to prepare ?” 
 
 “ Oh ! I am off' this evening by the mail.” 
 
 “ I have no clothes ready for travelling.” 
 
 “Never mind that; you can get all you require in 
 Paris, where I shall remain two days upon business.” 
 
 “ Indeed ! then in two hours I will give you a decided 
 answer.” 
 
 At the expiration of that time my friend made his 
 appearance. We drew up an agreement, got his pass- 
 port, and started the same evening ; but not on the sly, as 
 I had anticipated. Having forgotten to warn T. G. 
 not to mention the fact of our intended journey, he had 
 called upon several of his friends, with some of whom I 
 was acquainted, and to my surprise, when I reached the 
 station, I found about twenty assembled to bid us fare- 
 well. If I mention this circumstance, it is only to have 
 an opportunity of publicly thanking those gentlemen for 
 their hearty farewell, and three cheers — the echo of 
 which still vibrates in my heart, and was through the 
 whole of my culinary campaign a high source of gra- 
 tification to my feelings. That night we slept at the 
 Pavilion Hotel, Folkestone. 
 
49 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 DELIGHTS OE TItAVEL. 
 
 The lost pocket-book — Found at last — Scene at a station — Caught 
 in a fog — Arrival at Boulogne — The Emperor’s first valet-de- 
 chambre — An avalanche of earth — Table talk — Napoleon’s pro- 
 jected trip to the Crimea — News of the death of the Czar — An 
 incredulous auditor — A bet quickly won — Paris — Lyons — Mar- 
 seilles. 
 
 The Boulogne steamer was to start at half-past seven in 
 the morning ; the weather was anything but favourable, 
 as rain was falling in torrents, and a thick fog coming on. 
 T. G. and myself were ready to start, when a sad adven- 
 ture occurred — my pocket-book, containing the best 
 part of my cash and my official letters, was not to be 
 found.* As I recollected having put it safely in the side 
 pocket of my great coat before leaving the Adelaide 
 Hotel, I feared that during the journey (owing to the 
 fatigues of the day I had slept some time in the train) 
 it might have been abstracted from my pocket. 
 
 After hunting in vain all about the room, I informed 
 Mr. Giovanni and Mr. Brydes, the landlord of the hotel, 
 of my loss, and those gentlemen immediately instituted 
 inquiries. The news was soon known all through the hotel, 
 and the crier was ordered to go round the town. I also 
 dispatched T. G. to London, to make inquiries at the 
 station and the hotel, lest by chance I had taken it 
 out during my short visit at the London Bridge house, 
 where I had been surrounded by a number of friends. 
 While making a last search in the room, by accident I 
 shook the heavy wooden frame of the bed, from which 
 everything had been removed — bedding, beds, and all, 
 
 * I had bought a cash-belt, but upon trying it, on the point of 
 our departure, I found it too short. This circumstance caused me 
 to place everything in my pocket-book. 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 AN AWKWARD POSITION. 
 
 but without success — to my astonishment and delight, 
 I heard something fall. It was my lost pocket-book. I 
 had thrown my great coat over me in the night (the 
 weather being cold) , and the book had worked its way 
 out, and got between the frame of the bedstead and the 
 wall. Upon this discovery I immediately telegraphed 
 for T. G. to return, in these words ; “ Stop a gentleman 
 of colour — it’s all right.” 
 
 On the arrival of the train at Tonbridge, the cry of 
 cc Stop the gentleman of colour” was loudly shouted 
 along the station. “ All right, all right,” cried T. G.; 
 "here I am.” He immediately jumped into the 
 special down train, and arrived time enough to save the 
 steamer. 
 
 The quid pro quo of passengers as well as railway 
 employes was, that the thief had been captured, and it 
 served him right. I heard afterwards this was the 
 exclamation of many at the time. 
 
 T. G/s devotion was certainly not repaid, but, when 
 explained at the hotel, the incident caused great mirth. 
 This was our first tribulation, which, though unpleasant, 
 had the merit of being the first germ of excitement. 
 
 The same morning, in a rough sea and heavy rain, we 
 sailed for Boulo^ne-sur-Mer. The steamer was very 
 much crowded with Crimean passengers, and almost 
 every one paid the usual nautical debt to Neptune, 
 looking more or less uninteresting. The beauty of the 
 female part of the passengers had faded, and nothing but 
 pale, livid faces remained, in place of the blooming, peach- 
 like countenances. A very thick fog came on, and the 
 speed of the steamer was of course checked. We pro- 
 gressed slowly through the opaque atmosphere and heavy 
 rain. After we had made all the signals required, the 
 steam-whistle was heard, and we found ourselves going 
 ahead towards the round tower on the right hand side 
 of the port, the sight of which seemed to astonish the 
 crew of the vessel, and more so one of the passengers, 
 an old gentleman, who exclaimed, "We are in the same 
 position as the AmphUrite , which was wrecked in 1833, 
 when above two hundred souls perished. A fisherman 
 
ARRIVE AT BOULOGNE. 
 
 named Pierre Henin distinguished himself so greatly 
 on that occasion, that he was decorated by both countries 
 — France and England.” 
 
 I observed, that the sea must have been about three 
 times as rough at that time, and it was to be hoped, in 
 case of danger, we should meet with several Pierre Henins. 
 However, by backing for about twenty minutes, and the 
 fog clearing off by degrees, we arrived safely, but too 
 late for the train. The jetty was rather crowded for that 
 time of the year. Our delay and the fog had rendered 
 our passage interesting — rather more so than pleasant. 
 My intention was to take the first train, when, on 
 reaching the jetty, who should I perceive but my friend 
 M. Leon, the Emperor’s first valet-de-eliambre, one of 
 the persons that have been longest employed about his 
 Majesty’s person, having been with him above sixteen 
 years. He is much esteemed by his imperial master, 
 none but himself approaching his person while in his 
 private apartment. It is M. Leon who sleeps before the 
 door of his illustrious master’s chamber while travelling, 
 as the Mamelouk Roustan did before that of Napoleon 
 the First. “ Hollo!” he exclaimed, “are you here, my 
 dear friend ?” 
 
 “ Yes, I am. What brings you here at this season ? 
 And where is his Majesty ?” said I. 
 
 “ You may depend upon it,” he replied, “ that if the 
 Emperor were not here, I should not be at Boulogne ; but 
 we have only come for a few days. The Emperor is 
 going to attend a review to-morrow. I hear you are 
 going to the Crimea.” 
 
 “ Yes, I am.” 
 
 “So we saw by the newspapers, and the Emperor was 
 much pleased to hear it, and expressed his satisfaction by 
 no doubt thinking it was an excellent idea for you to be 
 sent over there. When do you start ?” 
 
 “ Almost directly,” I replied. 
 
 “ Stay here to-night. I will tell the Emperor you 
 are here. Come and sup with me this evening,” 
 
 “Thank you, I will.” We then parted; I sending 
 some of my attendants on to Paris. The implacable 
 
52 
 
 AN AVALANCHE OE EARTH. 
 
 douaniers then commenced their perilous sport; and 
 although, thanks to a friend of mine, I had an official 
 passport from the French Embassy, signed by Count 
 Walewski, two of my boxes containing my Shilling 
 Cookery Books were confiscated till the next morning, but 
 eventually allowed to pass free of duty, but not of trouble, 
 and would have been the cause of my losing a day for 
 nothing, had it not been that we were too late for the 
 train. At ten minutes to seven o’clock, through a very 
 heavy rain and a brisk gale, we arrived at the “ Grand 
 Hotel du Pavilion,” which had just been finished, and was 
 inhabited for the first time. This hotel is situated about 
 five hundred yards from the Etablissement des Bains, at 
 the foot of the bank, on the right hand side of that 
 establishment. Any person who has visited Boulogne 
 must be acquainted with the spot. It is rather re- 
 markable that soon after the arrival of the Emperor — in 
 fact, he only just had time to dress after his journey — an 
 avalanche of earth fell from the top of the bank, shaking 
 the very foundations of the hotel. At the back of the 
 house the earth reached higher than the second floor, 
 breaking the windows. Some of the debris actually fell 
 into the Emperor’s dressing-room, only a few minutes 
 after he had left it. The slip of earth was supposed to 
 have been caused by the melting of the snow, which had 
 lain there for some time, as well as the rain, which had 
 been pouring down, night and day, for a week. 
 
 My friend was just sitting down to supper, when 
 I joined them, it being then eight o’clock, heure 
 militaire , punctuality being the motto in every depart- 
 ment in the imperial household. Having introduced 
 my secretary, T. G., the conversation turned upon 
 the avalanche, then upon the grand repas de corps } as it 
 is called in France, or military banquet, given that 
 evening to the generals and officers of the Camp de 
 Boulogne. But the most important part of the con- 
 versation was upon the contemplated departure of 
 Napoleon for the East. He was to travel from Paris 
 to Marseilles incog., with but very few of his suite. 
 “Everything,” said M. Leon, “is packed and ready, 
 
A TELEGRAPHIC DISPATCH. 
 
 53 
 
 and we may start at an hour’s notice. Your friend 
 Benoit has already sent his batterie de cuisine, and 
 a quantity of preserved provisions/’ (M. Benoit is the 
 Emperor’s chef de cuisine .)* 
 
 Whilst we were conversing, a footman entered, in a 
 state of anxiety and excitement, and exclaimed — “ There 
 is not a single cigar, and the Emperor has asked for 
 some.” 
 
 “Very well,” said the maitre d’hot el, “go and buy 
 some.” In about half an hour he returned with a square 
 box, three parts full of various kinds of cigars, which he 
 had no doubt purchased at all the nearest grocers’ shops, 
 clearing out their stock of French Havana cigars. 
 
 “ Couldn’t you get better ones than these ?” said the 
 maitre d’hotel. 
 
 “No doubt I could, but not near.” 
 
 “Then, take them up.” He despatched another 
 servant to the Rue de l’Ecu for a box of good ones, 
 which arrived too late. Owing to a most unexpected 
 circumstance, the company only had the opportunity of 
 partaking of a few of them, for they scarcely had time to 
 light cigars, when a telegraphic dispatch arrived. My 
 friend M. Leon told one of the attendants to go and see 
 if his Majesty had left the banqueting-room, and if he 
 was in his cabinet. While this was passing, I took 
 the dispatch in my hand, and by way of a joke, said to 
 him, “ As France and England are now allied, and have 
 the same policy, I have here an official English Govern- 
 ment letter, which, if you like, I will exchange for your 
 dispatch.” 
 
 “ It might be done,” said he, laughing ; “ but, upon 
 consideration, the Emperor would very likely prefer his 
 own.” The servant returned, and informed him that the 
 Emperor was still at table. The dispatch remained about 
 ten minutes longer near M. Leon, when they came and 
 
 # That his Majesty was going early in March to the Crimea I 
 can assert as a positive fact. Having met with many unbelievers 
 on this subject in the Crimea is the cause of my relating this anec- 
 dote; and no doubt nothing but the following unexpected news 
 could have prevented his majesty from following out his determination. 
 
54 
 
 STARTLING NEWS. 
 
 apprised him that Napoleon was in his cabinet. M. Leon 
 went up with the dispatch, and in a few minutes 
 returned, saying to me, “ Do you know what the contents 
 of the letter you wished to exchange for yours were?” 
 
 “ Certainly not,” I replied. 
 
 “The contents are, that the Emperor Nicholas is 
 dead.” Every one was thunderstruck by the unexpected 
 announcement, and we could hardly believe it. “ If you 
 come up quickly, you will hear the Emperor himself 
 announce it to the company in the banqueting-room.” 
 We obeyed, but only arrived in time to hear the last 
 words — “acesse de vivre.” Special orders were then 
 given that no demonstration should be made, and a low 
 and mournful conversational sound was alone heard 
 amongst those assembled. A few minutes after leaving 
 the imperial palace, a friend and myself were quietly taking 
 our coffee at a celebrated establishment, and in conver- 
 sation said loud enough to be heard by our neighbours, 
 that certainly the death of the Emperor Nicholas was 
 very likely to change the state of affairs, as the present 
 Emperor, Alexander was, so we had always heard, 
 rather a pacificator. Before we could finish the remark, 
 an elderly gentleman, who was sitting near us, exclaimed, 
 “ What do you say ? What do you say, sir ? — the Em- 
 peror Nicholas dead?” 
 
 “Yes, sir, he is dead.” 
 
 “ Go to , sir ; that’s another Crimean shave, 
 
 like the taking of Sebastopol.” 
 
 “ Sir,” I replied, “ I can vouch for this not being a 
 shave, and that his Majesty, the Emperor Nicholas the 
 Eirst of Russia, expired yesterday; and what is more, 
 I will lay you a wager of it.” 
 
 In a few minutes some jumped upon the chairs and 
 benches, others upon the billiard-table, looking at me, 
 no doubt anxious to see whether I was intoxicated 
 or mad. One gentleman raising his voice, said, “ I’ll 
 bet anything this report is not true.” 
 
 “Done for a dozen of champagne.” 
 
 “ I take you, and we will drink your health at your 
 own expense.” 
 
THE PASSPORT QUESTION. 
 
 55 
 
 We scarcely had time to deposit our money with 
 the lady who presided at the bar of the establishment 
 when mine was again in my pocket. A number of officers 
 who had returned from the banquet entered, and affirmed 
 the truth of what I had stated. Nevertheless, no one 
 eould believe it ; so I proposed returning my money to 
 the stakeholder till the next morning, and turning the 
 champagne into an early dejeuner a la four cliette. 
 
 At the custom-house the following morning I was 
 detained, and reached twenty-five minutes behind the 
 time appointed by my friend, and perhaps thereby lost 
 the chance of a short interview with the Emperor, which 
 made me bless the douaniers who were so long at their 
 breakfast, and longer still in clearing my luggage. I 
 found my friend M. Leon smoking his short pipe at 
 the hotel door, with his hands in his pantalon a la 
 cosaque , a type de troupier well worthy of the past and 
 present empire ; so I made sure his Majesty was off. 
 
 “Oh, here you are at last — a fine fellow truly, and 
 very punctual indeed ! Why, his Majesty has been gone 
 this half-hour. I intimated you were still here, and he 
 would probably have seen you ; but mind, if you don’t 
 look sharp, we shall be at Constantinople before you. 
 You are sure to see his Majesty there, for the first thing 
 he will do will be to visit all the hospitals, both French 
 and English.” 
 
 “ I am very glad to hear you say so, for the loss is on 
 my side; but what can you do when you are in the 
 hands of the authorities ; if you recollect, the last time 
 I was here, I fared worse, for I was locked up more than 
 two hours for coming without a passport, fancying 
 myself a true Briton, as they are allowed to land with- 
 out any.” 
 
 “ Then you really expect to go ?” I again asked. 
 
 “Nothing can be more certain, when I tell you that 
 everything is ready for our departure. I much regret 
 missing so excellent an opportunity. When do you 
 leave ?” 
 
 This afternoon ; our places are taken by telegraph at 
 Marseilles through the War Office ; and I shall only 
 
56 
 
 PARIS AND LYONS. 
 
 remain in Paris twenty-four hours, instead of two days,, 
 as I had anticipated.” 
 
 Having related the scene at the cafe the previous 
 evening, and invited him to the dejeuner, he declined 
 attending it, on the ground that some unexpected news 
 from Russia might cause his Majesty to return to Paris 
 immediately. 
 
 “ Do you mean to say,” I exclaimed, “ that you had 
 not heard of the Emperor Nicholas being indisposed 
 previous to the arrival of the despatch which announced 
 his death?” 
 
 “ Oh, yes ; we did hear last evening. This was the 
 third dispatch we received yesterday, but we never 
 dreamed of his dying till that one came.” 
 
 “ Well, many thanks for your kindness, my dear friend; 
 and I hope to see you at Scutari soon. I shall pay you 
 a visit there.” 
 
 “ Do,” said he ; “ I understand we shall have one of 
 the Sultan’s palaces on the Bosphorus. Adieu !” 
 
 After the dejeuner, and a protracted journey to the 
 Boulogne Camp, my friend and myself took the last 
 train and arrived early in the morning at Paris. My 
 first visit was to the military hospital of the Yal de 
 Grace, the Invalides, the Hotel Dieu, &c. I was politely 
 shown over each establishment by the authorities on duty, 
 and took notes of all the ingredients used for the prepa- 
 ration of the daily diets of both officers and soldiers. 
 
 We started the same evening for Lyons, stayed a few 
 hours there, and visited the military hospital at that 
 place, and took the steamer to Avignon. On board we 
 found the Smyrna ladies, about thirty in number, under 
 the orders of Mrs. M. Cooke ; there were also many 
 doctors. I had seen them the day previous at the Hotel 
 des Princes, Rue Richelieu, but had not the slightest 
 knowledge of who or what they were. As the ladies 
 were all dressed in grey, I took them for Quakeresses 
 upon a pilgrimage. 
 
CHAPTER Y. 
 
 COMFORT OX SHORE AND PENANCE AT SEA. 
 
 Tour of inspection at Marseilles — The hooking office — Sleeping upon 
 deck — Places transferred — The bouillabaisse — The Olio — Mar- 
 seilles dishes — A harrowing spectacle — The S imois — A pleasant 
 prospect — Good ballast — The Bay of Ajaccio — Compagnons de 
 voyage — Birthplace of the first Napoleon — La Signora Grossetti 
 — Twenty minutes in the kitchen of the house of the Emperor 
 Napoleon the First — Memorials of the Emperor’s childhood — A 
 charming evening — Once more afloat — An enraged restaurateur 
 — Struggle for a leg of mutton — Messina— The Piraeus — Athens. 
 
 On arriving at Marseilles, I made inquiries at the Station 
 as to what provisions could be obtained for the army, if 
 required. I, bade my friends adieu, in hopes of having 
 the pleasure of seeing them on board the next day, 
 and in particular Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, who really 
 took their duty to heart, and had a most difficult 
 task to perform. After viewing all the magazines of 
 Marseilles and its warehouses, I perceived that my 
 countrymen, in the way of national business, were very 
 little boys, who could hardly walk, when compared with 
 English commercial men and the houses of Crosse and 
 Blackwell, Fortnum and Mason, Hogarth, Gamble, &c. 
 Having done my duty, so far as the victualling de- 
 partment was concerned, I found that with such a stock 
 of provisions any Government might keep its army 
 in a state of perfect starvation — should the French 
 Government depend upon them — though at the same 
 time the quantity and quality might have served very 
 well for a dainty pic-nic of a couple of thousand epicures, 
 the price also being so high. 
 
 Passing by the Bureau des Messageries Imperiales, I 
 called in to see aboutr our places for the next day. I 
 found an old friend, of fifteen years* standing at least, at 
 
58 
 
 A STRONG APPEAL. 
 
 the head of that department. “ Ho ! pardieu,” said he, 
 “ I thought it was you, having seen several paragraphs 
 respecting your departure for the Crimea. I was afraid 
 at one time you would have gone by sea. I have two 
 first cabin berths for you to-morrow ; but as you are a 
 very gallant man, you will not mind sleeping upon deck 
 from here to Smyrna.” 
 
 “ Sleeping upon deck ! what do you mean ? My places 
 have been taken this week past.” 
 
 “ I know that — I have two first-cabin berths for you. 
 How many cooks and attendants have you got with you ?** 
 “We are about eight in number.” 
 
 “ Oh, I can manage them then ; although I assure you 
 we are cramped everywhere.” 
 
 “What do you mean by my sleeping upon deck?” 
 
 “ Why, because if you don’t, some of those ladies who 
 *are going to Smyrna must. Four of them must sleep upon 
 deck, as all the places are taken ; and I am sure you are 
 too gallant to allow them to sleep in the open air while 
 you remain snug in your cabin. Tell me, are you obliged 
 to start with them ?” 
 
 “ Certainly not.” 
 
 “ Then, wait for the next boat ; it will not make 
 forty-eight hours* difference, and you will be very com- 
 fortable. You will go by Messina and Athens, and be 
 there nearly as soon. Moreover, you will be rendering a 
 great service to those ladies ; besides, we should pack five 
 or six persons in your cabin.** 
 
 “Very well, transfer our places.** 
 
 “ The next vessel is quite new, and it will be her first 
 voyage. She is most handsomely fitted up, and you will 
 meet with capital company on board. All the first cabins 
 are taken by English and French officers ; you are sure to 
 know some of them.** 
 
 “Very well; at what time shall we be here?** 
 
 “ Be ready the day after to-morrow, about three p.m., 
 at the Hotel d*Orient, where you are staying. I will 
 send some men with a few cabs. Mind you have all your 
 luggage ready.** 
 
 “ I will. Many thanks for your kindness.** 
 
THE BOUILLABAISSE. 
 
 59 
 
 The next day, after visiting several public institutions, 
 I was very desirous to taste an excellent dish called the 
 bouillabaisse, which is exclusively a Marseillaise dish, as 
 turtle-soup and roast beef and plutii-pudding are essen- 
 tially English. I therefore invited a few friends to that 
 far-famed place, the “ Reserve.” Among my guests, I 
 had the pleasure of numbering a most eminent, amiable, 
 and gallant gentleman, Captain Taunton, who, a few 
 weeks previous, I heard, had the temerity to run his ship, 
 the Fury, so close to the port of Sebastopol, that a 
 round shot passed through her beam. 
 
 The Captain, my friend M. Giraldo, and myself, 
 formed the trio of degustators of the Grand Proven^ale 
 dish called the bouillabaisse, as well as another cele- 
 brated one called the olio. The first one I, with 
 veneration and justice, recognised as worthy of being 
 immortalized in the archives of cookery. The olio, like 
 many of its companions, so admired by the Marseillais, 
 is only to be appreciated by the inhabitants of that city, 
 who must have sprung from a bed of garlic, instead of 
 that more genteel and more sweetly-perfumed one, the 
 parsley-bed — so well known to the juveniles, who are 
 made to believe they were found ruralizing amidst that 
 delicate aromatic plant. 
 
 The bouillabaisse pertains to Marseilles, as the white- 
 bait to Greenwich and Blackwall. Even at Marseilles 
 it is only at a few houses that you can get it in perfec- 
 tion, among which the celebrated “Restaurant de la 
 Reserve ” ranks as A 1, and next, the “ Grand Hotel des 
 Colonies.” 
 
 After all, the “ Reserve ” is the principal place. 
 This beautiful and picturesque restaurant, with its 
 pavilion and slim turrets, is gracefully situated on the 
 top of the high rock at the entrance of the old seaport. 
 When required, the proprietor procures the particular 
 fish alive, at the threshold of his door, and shell-fish 
 required for the composition of this dainty dish.* In less 
 than an hour — during which time we had partaken 
 
 * A magnificent palace, dedicated to the Empress Eugenie, de- 
 signed by the Emperor, is now in course of erection near the spot. 
 
60 
 
 A DAINTY DISH. 
 
 of a few small oysters, and some shell-fish peculiar to 
 Marseilles — the bouillabaisse was upon the table, smoking 
 hot, and perfuming the room with its aroma. 
 
 Although the bouillabaisse can be made with any kind 
 of firm fish, in all countries, and at all seasons of the 
 year, I should be deceiving my readers were I to say 
 that it could be made in the same perfection as at Mar- 
 seilles ; nevertheless, it can be made good if the receipt 
 is closely followed. The choice of fish for the purpose in 
 England, although not as suitable as those of the Mar- 
 seillaise coast, being of a different nature, will still 
 produce an excellent, dainty dish. 
 
 Though this 'petit dejeuner was very recherche, the 
 bouillabaisse threw all the accessory dishes into the 
 shade. The landlord, who favoured us with his com- 
 pany at dessert, informed me he made it himself ; and at 
 my request, favoured me with the receipt, and the names 
 of the fish composing it. 
 
 I returned my best thanks for the condescension and 
 trouble on his part in so doing. 
 
 “Ah, Monsieur Soyer,” said he, “you may thank 
 your name for that. I have often seen you mentioned 
 in our papers, and should have been sorry if you had 
 left our seaport without tasting our national dish in 
 perfection.” He observed, in handing it to me, “ You 
 are, of course, aware that this dish cannot be made 
 except at a seaport.” 
 
 “ I am well aware of that fact,” I answered, “ and 
 that this semi-soup and stew ought, by right, to be 
 made at a seaport ; nevertheless, the finest seaport I 
 have ever seen in England, and I might say in the 
 world, for fish, is London ; therefore, my dear sir, give 
 me the receipt, and I shall, no doubt, fish out the fish 
 from a good quarter. 
 
 Original Eeceipt eor the Bouillabaisse a la Marseillaise. 
 
 Before entering upon details, I will specify the different kinds 
 of fish most applicable. They are of two classes : one acting as a 
 mucilaginous agent, the other merely imparting the flavour ; also an 
 essential point. The first class comprises — whitings, loups or lupins. 
 
HOW TO MAKE IT. 
 
 61 
 
 red mullets, soles, and turbots. The second — gurnets, boudroies or 
 boudreuils, lobsters or cray-fish, sea toads or rascasses, galinettes, 
 limbers, lazagnes or lucreces. These latter are plentiful in the 
 Mediterranean seas. 
 
 As a general rule, this ragout should be cooked in a stewpan, 
 rather broad than deep, and of thin metal, in order to the ebullition 
 proceeding quickly. Those in tin or thin iron are the most appro- 
 priate, as the concoction must be done in a few minutes, and with 
 such rapidity that the liquor must be reduced to the necessary point 
 by the time the fish is cooked. It should also be sent to table and 
 eaten at once, as the shortest delay will cause the quality to deterio- 
 rate. The principal fish must be cut in pieces or slices sufficiently 
 sized to serve each guest ; the others being merely accessories. 
 
 Receipt. — Slice up two large onions, place them in a stewpan 
 as before mentioned, wide but not deep, and of thin metal, add a few 
 spoonfuls of olive oil, and fry the onions of a pale brown colour. 
 Next, place the pieces of fish in the pan, cover them with warm 
 water, but no more than the depth of the contents ; add salt, “ in 
 moderation,” half a bay leaf, the flesh of half a lemon, without pips 
 or rind, two tomatoes cut in dice, after extracting the seeds, a 
 small tumbler of light white wine, a few peppercorns, and four 
 cloves of garlic. Set on a fierce stove and boil for twelve minutes ; 
 by this time the liquor should be reduced to a third of its original 
 quantity. Add a small portion of saffron, a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsle} r , allow it to boil a few seconds longer , taste, and correct the 
 seasoning, if required, and remove from the fire. 
 
 During this process you should have prepared two dozen of slices 
 of light French bread or penny-roll, about half an inch in thickness, 
 which place in a tureen or dish, pour over them some of the liquor 
 from the ragout, let it soak a minute or so, and again pour over in 
 order to soak the top as well as the bottom of the layers of bread. 
 Dish up separately the best pieces of fish with the remaining liquor, 
 and serve. 
 
 The variation called Bourride, differs in this only, viz., the addition 
 of seven or eight yolks of eggs to a good portion of the liquor, 
 which is stirred quickly over the fire till of the consistence of a 
 custard cream, and then'poured upon the slices of bread, with the 
 addition of a tablespoonful of eau d’ail, or ayoli. 
 
 The eau d’ail or ayoli is prepared by crushing several cloves of 
 garlic, and saturating them with water; adding the requisite quantity 
 to the bourride. 
 
 My reason for printing this receipt, although partly impracticable 
 in England, is, that it is the original as given to me by the worthy 
 host of the “ Reserve,” as so successfully made by him. 
 
 But as many of the fish required are not to be obtained in 
 England, and the quantity of garlic used would be objectionable to an 
 English palate, I beg to refer my readers to the Addenda for a 
 Bouillabaisse a l’Anglaise, which possesses two great qualities : — 
 firstly, to suit the palate of the gourmet ; secondly, that of being 
 
62 
 
 A SAD SPECTACLE. 
 
 very strengthening. The broth is very generous and wholesome 
 for the invalid, — for the authenticity of which assertion I appeal to 
 the faculty. 
 
 Giraldo now informed us it was past three o’clock, 
 and that we must be on board by half-past six at 
 latest. So shortly after, much to our regret, we left 
 our worthy landlord and his sanctorum of good cheer, 
 and at half-past four left the Hotel d’Orient to go on 
 board the steamer, accompanied by the gallant Captain 
 Taunton, Mr. Giraldo, and a few other friends. 
 
 Upon arriving at the docks, a most painful sight 
 fell under our notice ; it was indeed a spectacle calcu- 
 lated to pain the soul of the greatest philosopher. The 
 quays round the harbour were thickly lined with sick 
 and wounded. There were about seven or eight hundred, 
 who had just been landed from two French steamers, 
 one from Constantinople, the other from the Crimea. 
 Some were placed upon straw, others upon bedding, 
 until they could be removed to the hospital, according 
 to the nature of their cases. Their appearance, I regret 
 to say, was more than indescribable. All the afflictions 
 so common to the fate of war seemed to have met and 
 fallen at once upon those brave fellows, who, a few months 
 previous, were the pride of their country. Many of them, 
 to their sorrow, had not enjoyed a chance of facing the 
 enemy; while those who were wounded looked joyful 
 compared with those who were the victims of epidemics 
 — typhus fever, diarrhoea, dysentery, cholera, or frost- 
 bites. I conversed with several; not one complained, 
 but merely regretted the friends who had died on the 
 passage and those sick left behind, and bewailed that 
 they had done so little for their country in the campaign. 
 M. Giraldo, who had superintended the disembarkation, 
 informed me that such scenes were of daily occurrence 
 at Marseilles ; adding, this must be very encouraging for 
 you. Saying also in irony, “ lend soldiers to the Turks — 
 how well they thrive under the banner of Mahomet l 
 Well, well, my dear sir, after all, this is nothing more than 
 the fortune of war : f a la guerre comme a la guerre.’ ” 
 
 This was the first disastrous sight I witnessed in this 
 great war, and though anything but encouraging, merely 
 
PLEASANT INTELLIGENCE. 
 
 63 
 
 grated upon my sensibility, without in the least affecting 
 my mind. I must say T. G. showed much firm- 
 ness upon this solemn occasion, which firmness rather 
 failed him afterwards. 
 
 At five we were on the deck of the Simois, the name 
 of our vessel. It was her first trip, she having only arrived 
 a few days previous from Liverpool. All on board was 
 in great confusion; a part of the vessel had just taken 
 fire, and the sailors were engaged putting it out, and 
 cutting away the burning portions; however, it was soon 
 extinguished. We then learnt, that upon coming into 
 dock she had met with serious damage, which they had 
 scarcely had time to repair, and the painters were still on 
 board busily employed varnishing the first cabin. I was 
 next told that about four hundred troops, who were 
 expected, had not arrived, and that we should start with- 
 out them. A lady, who was standing by, exclaimed, 
 “ Oh, thank God for that ! I cannot bear soldiers.” 
 
 “ I thought,” I said, “ it was a very bad job instead of a 
 good one, as the vessel would be crank, through not being 
 sufficiently loaded, and would in consequence roll very 
 much.” 
 
 The weather being reported very rough outside, we 
 were in suspense as to whether we should leave that 
 night or not. On a sudden the screw slowly commenced 
 its evolutions, and propelled us, not without difficulty, 
 from the narrow port to the wide ocean — passing amongst 
 huge rocks, on the very summit of which the furious 
 waves were breaking. The evening was fast advancing, 
 and the vessel was already rolling very heavily. We soon 
 made the rock of Monte Christo, immortalized by 
 Dumas. A yellowish sunset, piercing the heavy rain, 
 faintly lighted the crest of this arid and uninhabitable 
 spot. Shortly after, all was darkness, and many retired. 
 Two or three remained till about ten oYlock, when the 
 steward cheerfully informed us, that the leather was 
 about the same as when the Semillante was lost ten days 
 before, and not a soul escaped. Nearly five hundred 
 troops, besides passengers and crew, were drowned. 
 
 “ Was she bound eastward ?” inquired a passenger. 
 
 “ Yes, sir, she was ; we are steering the same course. 
 
64 
 
 DANGERS OF THE SEA. 
 
 but there is another passage. I hope we shall get through 
 before night to-morrow, and if the sea holds as rough as 
 it is now, no doubt we shall take the other.” 
 
 We all turned into our berths, laughing at his mournful 
 tale. Before going, I said : “ Believe me, steward, we are 
 safer than ever, for you seldom hear of two accidents alike.” 
 “ Very true, sir ; but this boat seems unlucky. I can’t 
 tell you all the mishaps we have had in her since I have 
 been on board, and that is only one month.” She was then 
 rolling at a tremendous rate. At each plunge, a fearful 
 noise was heard. Upon inquiry, some one on board in- 
 formed me that he believed they had projectiles for ballast, 
 and these were rolling and shifting at each plunge the 
 steamer made. Such a cargo, though quite in harmony 
 with the martial trip, was anything but pleasing. Every- 
 thing rolled and tumbled about fearfully during the whole 
 of the night. At length day broke, with a glowing sun 
 and a heavy sea running mountains high ; so much so, 
 that it was dangerous to attempt the passage. Such must 
 have been the case, as the mail-boats are not allowed to 
 stop except in cases of extreme danger. Our careful 
 commander gave orders to bring up in the Bay of Ajaccio. 
 After sixteen hours’ flirtation on the wild ocean, we 
 entered this calm and peaceable port, much to the relief 
 of all. We then collected round the table; and while 
 partaking of a light lunch, we had time to become 
 acquainted with each other. Among our compagnons 
 de voyage were General Cannon, Captain Arbuckle, 
 Colonel St. George, of the Artillery, Captain Ponsonby, 
 Major Turner, Captain Gordon, — Murrogh,Esq., — Ball, 
 Esq., the Queen’s Messenger, and three or four French 
 officers, among whom was Captain Boucher, aide-de- 
 camp to General Canrobert, and afterwards to General 
 Bosquet. After some remarks upon our unfavourable 
 start, we all blessed our stars for the shelter we were 
 then enjoying in the peaceable harbour, so picturesquely 
 surrounded by its beautiful petite ville , the cradle of the 
 first Napoleon — Ajaccio — so well situated in that savage 
 and energetic island of poetically ferocious heroism, habits, 
 and eternal vendettas, so interesting to all since the 
 
NAPOLEON’S BI11TH-PLACE. 
 
 65 
 
 revival of that illustrious dynasty in the person of Napo- 
 leon the Third. 
 
 All of course were anxious to visit this celebrated spot ; 
 and on inquiring of the commander, he told us he should 
 sail the next morning early if the weather was more 
 favourable. We formed ourselves into parties of five or 
 six, and as it was only three o’clock, we had plenty of 
 time before us : our greatest anxiety was to visit the 
 house in which the great Napoleon was born. Our party 
 arrived first, as we had a very clever guide, who promised 
 if possible to introduce us to La Signora Grossetti, saying 
 we should have a great treat, as the old lady, who was 
 then eighty -three years of age, had been all her life in 
 the Buonaparte family in Corsica. We luckily met the 
 old lady just coming out, and upon being introduced, she 
 immediately returned to do us the honours of the house. 
 She has been housekeeper there for above thirty years. 
 After visiting the apartments which are always on view 
 — viz., the drawing-room, dining-room, concert and ball 
 room, library, and the small bed-room in which that . 
 almost fabulous hero was born, I asked the old gentle- 
 woman, as a special favour, to show me the kitchen. No 
 one was ever more astonished than she appeared to be at 
 my request. “ Why, surely there is nothing to be seen 
 there but ruins, and I don’t even know where the key is.’ 7 
 
 All this redoubled my interest. We went up stairs, 
 and found in an old drawer three rusty keys, which we 
 brought down ; one of them opened the dooi^ which, on 
 being pushed rather forcibly, fell from its hinges. We 
 then descended, and opened the shutters, which likewise 
 tumbled from their fastenings. After visiting the various 
 departments which constitute a gentleman’s kitchen, I 
 wrote upon the stove the following letter to the public 
 press, which, through the mismanagement of my servant, 
 who threw it into the post without paying the postage, 
 never reached its destination : — 
 
 Twenty Minutes in the Kitchen of the House of the Fmperor 
 Najooleon the First. 
 
 Mr.. Editor, — It is an incontestable truism that “ It is an ill 
 wind that blows nobody good ” but in this case it will be found the 
 
 E 
 
66 
 
 THE EMPERORS KITCHEN. 
 
 reverse. Owing to most terribly rough weather, in fourteen hours 
 from our departure from Marseilles, en route to Constantinople, we 
 are brought up here by our prudent Captain, sheltering us in the 
 bosom of the harbour of Ajaccio, the birthplace of the alliance now 
 existing between the two great nations of France and England. 
 Such reminiscences of the first of the great Napoleon’s family caused 
 the shore to be invaded in a few minutes by the numerous passengers, 
 particularly the distinguished military men of both nations. Many 
 visited the Hotel de Ville, full of objects of interest, reminding 
 one of the late empire; others, the Letitia House; and some 
 inquired, with great coolness, if it were possible to see either of 
 the Corsican Brothers now in existence. In a very few minutes my 
 curiosity was gratified by a cursory examination of the above-mentioned 
 interesting subjects ; and by a great deal of courtesy and perseverance, 
 I obtained from La Signora Grossetti (who had been in the late 
 Emperor’s family from her infancy) the rusted key of the kitchen- 
 door of that interesting and now deserted domicile — such a request 
 having never before been made by the numerous travellers who 
 daily visit it. 
 
 And it is, Mr. Editor, while writing upon the stove in this 
 celebrated kitchen — which first alimented the brain of that great 
 hero — that I beg to address you the following few lines at random, 
 as the weather bids fair and our departure is immediate. On 
 my left hand is a well-constructed charcoal stove, containing six 
 * nine-inch square cooking-places, covered with glazed red tiles (a 
 piece of which I have procured, and intend placing in my kitchen at 
 Scutari); an oval one, about eighteen inches long by about six inches 
 wide, on which the most delicious fish, game, meat, and poultry, 
 were no doubt submitted to the highest perfection of the culinary 
 art. At the spot at which I am now writing, the roasting by wood 
 fire, and the broiling by red ashes, were carried on, as I perceive, by 
 the remains of the hearth. There is also the old Jack, with the 
 pulley that supported the rope and weights. On my right is an old 
 semi-circular oven, partly in ruins, with an old-fashioned wrought- 
 iron door, in which no doubt the cakes and choice pastry were pre- 
 pared to gratify the imperial infant’s palate. Larders, confectionery, 
 and all the requisite appointments of a kitchen are not wanting ; 
 which, though in a most dilapidated state, still left an appearance of 
 grandeur which none but a family of distinction could afford — very 
 different from what has been often reported and believed by the 
 vulgar — viz., that this great man had his origin in the bosom of an 
 indigent family. 
 
 With the highest consideration, believe me, Mr. Editor, yours 
 very faithfully, A. Soyer. 
 
 March 13, 1855. 
 
 The old lady seemed much pleased with the very ex- 
 traordinary interest I took in the place, and proposed 
 to show ns her private apartment at the top of the house. 
 
KITCHEN AT AJACCIO OF NAPOLEON THE FIKST, 
 
MEMORIALS AND THINGS OF FAME. 
 
 67 
 
 which she assured us was full of remiuiscences of the 
 Emperor’s childhood. His wooden arm-chair and desk, 
 inkstand, and a few boy’s toys — such as a small gun, 
 soldiers, shako, &c. — are carefully preserved by the old 
 and faithful servant of her illustrious master. Though 
 of great age, she was very animated, and made all sorts 
 of inquiries about the war, and if we had seen the 
 present Emperor; having satisfied her curiosity, we 
 retired, highly pleased with our visit to Ajaccio. 
 
 We were much indebted to La Signora Grossetti, who 
 had really shown us things that no former traveller could 
 boast of having seen. I could not part with the old 
 dame without saluting her on both cheeks, which she 
 very kindly returned, it being the custom of the 
 country, as she said. This scene terminated, much 
 to the surprise and enjoyment of my compagnons cle 
 voyage — Captain Gordon and Mr. Munro of the Ordnance, 
 with several French officers — our interview with that kind 
 and extraordinary lady. 
 
 I had taken (as I mentioned in my letter) a piece of tile 
 from the charcoal stove, and a rough wooden meat-hook 
 which I found in the larder, dating, as the Signora told 
 me, from that epoch. Our time being short, and the night 
 rapidly approaching, we re-embarked, and related, to the 
 great delight of all, our amorous adventure with the 
 nurse of the first Napoleon. All regretted not having 
 been of our party. We spent a very charming evening 
 on board, each one relating what he had seen. The 
 Town Hall, I must observe, is very interesting, being 
 filled with relics of the Buonaparte family, with full- 
 length portraits of the father and mother of the Emperor. 
 I was also much pleased at seeing one of the best sta- 
 tuettes of the late arbiter elegantiarum , the celebrated 
 Count D’Orsay, given by him to the present Emperor for 
 the town of Ajaccio. It is the well-known statuette of 
 Napoleon the First on horseback; and in a frame beside 
 it is the original letter of presentation written by the 
 Count himself, which I can vouch for, “ having many of 
 his letters in my possession.” The style is so charming, 
 that I regret not having had time to take a copy. 
 
68 
 
 ONCE MOKE AT SEA. 
 
 Next morning, with a fresh breeze, bright sun, and a 
 clear sky, we left this immortal and delightful spot, where 
 avenues of orange-trees, loaded with ripe fruit, ornament 
 both sides of the streets ; and at the same time, “ by 
 the bizarrerie of nature,” the chain of mountains which 
 surround this romantic spot are always covered with 
 snow. In ten minutes we were again launched upon the 
 wide ocean. Though the sea was not so rough, the 
 waves dashed about furiously, and made the vessel 
 roll even more than the day before. This is always 
 the case after a gale. We were all much amused 
 at the restcmrateur of the steamer, who kept cursing 
 everybody, because all his glass and crockery were 
 smashed to pieces ; and all because, as he declared, the 
 vessel had started before she had been properly fitted up. 
 The Captain, in trying to soothe him, drove him raving 
 mad, and he commenced throwing overboard all the 
 plates, dishes, and glass on which he could lay his 
 hands. At length he caught hold of a leg of mutton, and 
 was about to serve it in the same manner. I happened 
 to be near him, and not quite approving of casting good 
 victuals overboard while at sea, I took upon myself to 
 object to this part of his proceedings. I was the more 
 induced to do this because 1 had promised my illustrious 
 compagnons de voyage to look after the cook and his 
 cooking, with which he really took much pains, and 
 gave us great satisfaction. The infuriated Marseillais 
 poured a volley of* the most foul language in his Pro- 
 vencal dialect, while he and I were holding the doomed 
 leg of mutton. He then asked me who I was? 
 
 “A passenger,” I replied; “and one who has a most 
 decided objection to your feeding the fish — with legs 
 of mutton,” I continued, boldly. Pie then gave it 
 up; and, in acknowledging he was in the wrong, 
 exclaimed, at the top of his voice, “ I wish you no harm, 
 but I should be highly pleased if you and all in the 
 steamer were at the bottom of the sea.” 
 
 “ Wherefore ?” 
 
 “You ask me wherefore ! Because I shall lose above a 
 thousand francs.” 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
COOKING ON THE MAGIC STOVE IN THE ACROPOLIS AT ATHENS. 
 
THE INFURIATED RESTAURATEUR. 
 
 69 
 
 “ The directors will make that up,” I said. 
 
 ''Not a sous,” said he. 
 
 The comical part of this scene was enhanced by the 
 continual rolling of the ship. 
 
 This incident kept us alive till we reached Messina. 
 The following letter, addressed to the Illustrated London 
 News, will explain my subsequent proceedings : — 
 
 Acropolis, Athens, March 18. 
 
 Having left Maiteilles, on the 12th inst., for Constantinople, in the 
 prosecution of my mission to the Hospital at Scutari, owing to a 
 sudden and unexpected change from a beautifully calm to a rough 
 and stormy sea, M. Favre, the captain of our vessel (the Simois), 
 was compelled to seek shelter in the peaceable harbour of Ajaccio, 
 in Corsica, the birthplace of the immortal Emperor Napoleon I. 
 Since our departure from that celebrated port, a favourable breeze 
 succeeding a most tempestuous gale, soon brought us alongside 
 the Levrazzi Rocks, on which the French frigate Semillante was 
 wrecked a few weeks ago, and all her passengers and crew lost. At 
 night we were gratified with the sight of a slight eruption of the 
 Stromboli Mountain, which rises immediately from the ocean to the 
 height of several thousand feet. Next morning we arrived at Messina, 
 the spring garden of Sicily, where, in the open air, orange and lemon 
 trees were in full blossom, and covered with delicious fruit. Lilies, 
 roses, and violets perfume the air ; whilst peas, beans, artichokes, and 
 asparagus are gathered at the foot of the lofty mountains covered 
 with snow. Although Messina is well known to travellers, yet they 
 are not so well acquainted with the productions of its early spring. 
 After a few hours’ ramble in this interesting city, our party embarked, 
 and rapidly passed on our left the small but pretty town of Reggio, 
 and on our right the mighty Mount iEtna, covered with deep snow. 
 In less than forty-seven hours the Simois brought us before the 
 Piraeus, the voyage never before having been accomplished under fifty. 
 
 The Simois is an English vessel, built at Liverpool by Mr. Lay- 
 ward, and recentty purchased by the Messageries Imperiales, and 
 this is her first voyage in this sea. From the unexpected quickness 
 of our passage, we were allowed to remain at this port four hours, 
 and availed ourselves of the opportunity of visiting Athens. At 
 the present time, in the ancient Parthenon, I am cooking, with my 
 new camp-stove, on a fallen capital of the stupendous ruins, a 'petit 
 dejeuner a la fourchette , with Greek and Sicilian wines, for my 
 distinguished fellow-travellers ; amongst whom are General Cannon 
 (Behram Pacha); Colonel St. George, of the Woolwich Artillery; 
 Captain Gordon ; Captains Turner and Ponsonby ; G. Munro, Esq.; 
 W. S. Ball, Esq., Q.F.M.S.; Captain Arbuckle ; Captain Boucher, 
 Aide-de-camp of General Canrobert ; and Signor Pitaki, the Governor 
 of the Acropolis. 
 
 We shall speedily re-embark for Constantinople. A. Soyer. 
 
70 
 
 CHAPTER YI. 
 
 THE LAND OE THE MOSLEM. 
 
 Departure from Greece — Amusements at sea — The Dardanelles — 
 Gallipoli — A philharmonic soiree — Approach to the Bosphorus — 
 First view of the Scutari Hospital — Reflections — The deserted 
 steamer — The lady and her maid — Beautiful scene — The Golden 
 Horn — Castle of the Seven Towers — Kadikoi — General and 
 Barrack Hospitals — Grand panorama — Various edifices — Stam- 
 boul — Grand Oriental pageant — The Sultan’s kitchens — The 
 Harem — Punishment for Turkish, ladies — The Leander Tower — 
 A romantic tale — On shore again — The enchantment dissolves — 
 First glimpse of a pacha — The terrace of my hotel. 
 
 On leaving the Piraeus the weather was fine, and the 
 sea as smooth as a lake. All our party were them- 
 selves again — jovial, happy, and talkative at meals;, 
 reading, writing, games at cards, draughts, dominoes, 
 &c., filling up the time. We were like one happy and 
 united family. I paid my daily visit to the restaurateur 
 and his chef, with whom I was soon on good terms. 
 Towards evening, we collected on the upper deck, where 
 many French sous-officiers from the second-class cabin 
 joined us, and sang most admirably, from the simple 
 ballad to the gay gaudriole, the high operatic solo, and 
 comic or classic choruses. 
 
 Next morning, we passed the straits and town of the 
 Dardanelles, where the Allied flags were gaily floating' 
 from the houses of the respective Consulates. We made 
 but a short stay in its cheerful and animated bay to 
 deliver the mail. The rapid current, with the numbers of 
 Greeks, in their gay costumes and slim caiques, trying 
 to sell the passengers all sorts of things, and so do them 
 out of a few piastres, rendered our short stay at that 
 place highly amusing. Our next and last stay, before 
 reaching Constantinople, was Gallipoli, where every one 
 of our party landed, and remained on shore about an 
 
GALLIPOLI OYSTERS. 
 
 71 
 
 hour. General Cannon had an excellent idea; he sent 
 some oysters on board, which made a good addition to 
 our bill of fare. The Gallipoli oysters are small and ill- 
 formed, but very sweet. The same cannot be said of 
 the town and its inhabitants — both extremely dirty. 
 Indeed, this first Oriental seaport contrasts most out- 
 rageously with the grand paraphernalia of the “Arabian 
 Nights/” The evening before our arrival, to our sorrow, 
 we learnt from the Captain that, owing to the favour- 
 able winds we had experienced during the last sixty 
 hours, if nothing happened, we should enter the Bos- 
 phorus before daybreak. Thus all chance of the view of 
 the grand panorama of Constantine, so highly praised 
 by travellers, and especially by poets, which we had so 
 long anticipated, was entirely lost. What can be more 
 charming and refreshing, after a long sea-passage, where 
 life has long been suspended in space between heaven 
 and the mighty deep, than the gradual development of a 
 cheerful panorama, a view of which we had been some 
 time anticipating ? 
 
 The first quarter of the moon, forming the crescent — 
 the favourite emblem of the Moslem — was seen now and 
 then peeping through the murky clouds, which, in their 
 swift career, cast a dewy shadow upon the ocean. This 
 did not, however, prevent our philharmonic party from 
 mustering upon deck in greater numbers than on previous 
 occasions, probably because it was the last. We kept it 
 up till eleven o’clock, and then retired perfectly delighted 
 with our voyage, having already forgotten our unfavour- 
 able departure, and regretting nothing but our too-early 
 arrival in the Bosphorus. The night was calm, and, on 
 going on deck at daybreak, I heard, to my great satisfac- 
 tion, that we had proceeded very slowly all night, there 
 having been a thick fog, which was slowly disappearing 
 — “a thing,” said the Captain, “ seldom seen in the sea 
 of Marmora.” I returned to my cabin, and only lay 
 down that I might be ready when Constantinople came 
 in sight, as the Captain had promised to send and let me 
 know. 
 
 About eight in the morning every one was on deck. 
 
72 
 
 FIRST REFLECTIONS. 
 
 and the crew busily engaged getting up the luggage, 
 as our arrival was fixed for nine o’clock. We then 
 commenced inquiring about the hotels. All fixed upon 
 Messerie’s hotel, called “ L’Hotel d’Angleterre,” as 
 being the best. By this time, we were slowly approach • 
 ing the mouth of the Bosphorus. The weather was 
 anything but favourable — rain kept falling — everything 
 on deck was wet, and the air very chilly. General Cannon 
 said to me, “ I am very sorry, Mr. Soyer, for your 
 sake, and that of Captain Ponsonby and Colonel St. 
 George, that we shall not see the famed view of Con- 
 stantinople to advantage. I have already witnessed it, 
 this being my third voyage. However, as the weather is 
 very changeable here, it may be a fine day after all.” The 
 great Oriental City was then opening to view, but, 
 owing to the thick atmosphere, appeared nothing but a 
 confused mass. Twenty minutes later we were entering 
 the Bosphorus, the grandeur and magnificence of which, 
 though often described, I cannot pass without a few 
 remarks. 
 
 My mind was quite overpowered when I learnt that 
 the monster building before us was the Scutari Hospital 
 — a town in itself — and I reflected that it was full of 
 sick and wounded ; that each patient would require from 
 three to four articles of diet daily, making a total of 
 several thousand per diem to be provided in some shape 
 or other ; and that I had undertaken to reform and intro- 
 duce a better organization in the cooking department, 
 where all was confusion, in so strange a country. I must 
 confess that, for an hour or so, I was quite at a loss to think 
 how I should commence operations. I did not know one 
 official there. I had not the least idea how I should 
 be received; and, after all, I might probably catch the 
 fever, or some other complaint at the time raging within 
 its walls. Suddenly I recollected the plan I had ex- 
 plained to the Duchess of Sutherland and her noble 
 circle, which was to be tried upon a hundred patients. 
 This had entirely escaped my memory; and in a few 
 minutes my puzzled brain was as clear as a bell, and I 
 felt confident of success. “ If I succeed with a hundred,” 
 
CHOICE OF AN HOTEL. 
 
 73 
 
 said I, “ in a very short time I can manage a thousand, 
 providing I meet with proper support.” 
 
 I afterwards learnt from the doctor on hoard, that 
 the large red brick building on the right, about half 
 a mile from the Barrack Hospital, was called the General 
 Hospital, in which there were at least five or six hundred 
 patients. My resolution as to how I should act was then 
 fixed ; nothing appeared difficult to me ; and, instead of 
 fearing the undertaking, I was most anxious to begin. 
 Having been advised to call at Pera, to announce my 
 arrival, and pay my duty to Lord Stratford de Bedcliffe, 
 before going to Scutari, I ordered my people to go on 
 shore as soon as possible ; for, during my reverie upon 
 hospital duties, our good vessel had anchored. 
 
 There was only room at Messerie’s Hotel for General 
 Cannon and his aide-de-camp. He had bespoken his 
 apartments. Two young gentlemen apprised us of the 
 fact, and recommended their hotel, as we could not get 
 accommodation at the “ Hotel d^Angleterre.” As I had 
 a letter of introduction to Mr. Messerie, I directed my 
 friend T. G. to call there and make inquiries ; and if 
 he found that we could not be received, to go to the 
 “ Hotel des Ambassadeurs,” that establishment being the 
 next in standing. As I promised to remain on board 
 till he returned, I was left almost alone. There was 
 only a lady and her maid. The former was going 
 by a transport-ship the same evening, to join her 
 husband at Balaklava ; she therefore had no time to go 
 on shore. Colonel St. George, Captains Ponsonby and 
 Gordon, Mr. Ball, and General CanroberCs aides-de- 
 camp, and others, had all left. 
 
 By this time the weather had assumed a most brilliant 
 aspect — the morose and monotonous-looking clouds, 
 which before monopolised the region in the immediate 
 vicinity of the famed city of Mahomet, had been chased 
 away by a strong breeze ; the sun shed his golden rays 
 in gorgeous streams from the purple vault of heaven, 
 and the utmost depths of the lucid waters of the Bos- 
 phorus reflected his splendours. The entrance of the 
 Corne d ; Or — so called, no doubt, because it takes the 
 
74 
 
 PANORAMA OE THE BOSPHORUS. 
 
 shape of a liorn of plenty — is in truth a Golden Horn, 
 from the facilities it affords for maritime and commercial 
 intercourse, as well as navigation, penetrating, as it 
 does, into the very bosom of the imperial city. Con- 
 stantinople, like London, has no quays ; and on every 
 side this immense metropolis plunges its feet, or banks, 
 into the Bosphorus, from which it rises, offering to the 
 view the most magnificent spectacle beneath the canopy 
 of heaven. This is particularly the case from the 
 Seraglio Point, where the real city of Istamboul is 
 seated. The soil rises from the level of the water, 
 presenting a vast amphitheatre of myriads of houses, 
 mosques, minarets, and monuments of all descriptions, 
 intermixed with forests of sombre cypress trees. 
 
 A dragoman whom I engaged, and who spoke very 
 good English, gave me a description of the sur- 
 rounding scenery. Nothing can be more ravishing 
 than the living panorama of the Bosphorus, covered with 
 caiques and their caidjees, darting about on all sides like 
 water-flies. The elegance of those frail barks, and the 
 cleanliness of the light and cheerful costume of their 
 owners, so well develops the Oriental style, that it cannot 
 fail in forcibly striking every stranger. Numerous large 
 sailing-vessels, steamboats, Greek and Turkish barques, 
 and even mem of- war (many being then stationed in the 
 Golden Horn), made me forget for some time my mobile 
 panorama, to dwell upon the nautical one, which, so new 
 to me, unexpectedly attracted my attention, when my 
 dragoman informed me that it was near eleven o’clock, 
 and that my men had returned for the luggage. 
 
 “Very well,” said I; “but pray explain to me the 
 various places by which we are now surrounded.” 
 
 “ Certainly, sir, with great pleasure. I know every 
 spot, palace, and monument. On entering the Bos- 
 phorus this morning, you passed before the Castle of the 
 Seven Towers, where the ambassadors were formerly 
 imprisoned. Those islands to the left are the Isles des 
 Princes. All the Europeans go and spend their Sundays 
 there. In summer many reside there, and come to 
 business in the morning, returning at night.” 
 
SUMMER RETREATS. 
 
 75 
 
 “ Those hills yonder, I suppose, are very pretty ?” 
 
 “ Oh, very much so indeed. Almost facing them is 
 the Asiatic shore : that pretty place to the left is called 
 Kadikoi — a very pretty summer residence, inhabited by 
 rich merchants, particularly Greeks and Armenians. It 
 is full of beautiful houses and gardens, and is much 
 celebrated for its fine fruits. A little further this way is 
 the General Hospital — that red brick building.” 
 
 “That I am aware of. And the other is the great 
 Barrack Hospital, with its hundreds of windows and four 
 square towers. They are full of English sick and wounded 
 — that I of course knew.” 
 
 “ Next to it is a splendid mosque called the Sultan’s 
 mosque. It is frequented by his Majesty when he resides 
 at his summer kiosque of Hyder Pacha. That forest of 
 cypress trees is the grand Champ des Morts, or the 
 favourite Turkish cemetery. It extends several miles. 
 Several generations are buried there.” 
 
 “Well, what follows?” 
 
 “ This beautiful and picturesque spot, sir, is called 
 Scutari. It is full of kiosques and Turkish families, 
 pachas, &c. It contains about a hundred thousand inha- 
 bitants, almost all Turks, and extends beyond the front 
 of the Sultan’s new palace of Dolma Bachi. You can 
 see it from here. It is not quite finished, and is con- 
 structed chiefly of white marble. Lower down is a 
 palace inhabited by the Sultan. It is lighted by 
 gas — quite a new thing in Constantinople. That 
 large building above, on the heights, is the grand 
 hospital of Pera, now used by the French ; and all the 
 neighbourhood as far as the pointed tower is called Pera, 
 the Christian quarter, where are the foreign embassies 
 and foreign merchants’ residences. The large yellowish 
 building with the colonnade you see facing us so boldly 
 is the Russian Embassy. They are about to convert it 
 into a hospital for the sick French officers. The beau- 
 tiful mosque and large square you see at the bottom is 
 called Tophane. It contains a large can non -foundry ; 
 and in the centre of the square is the kiosque be- 
 longing to the Sultan’s brother. His Majesty fre- 
 
76 
 
 STAMBOUL. 
 
 quently visits this place when he attends his favourite 
 mosque. 
 
 “ This large tower is called the Galata Tower, and from 
 the top the fire -signal is made ; and I can assure you 
 that in the winter its guardians have something to 
 do, as there is a fire every day or night. Lower down, 
 towards the bridge, is called Galata, where all mercan- 
 tile and commercial, as well as naval, business is trans- 
 acted. Every rich merchant of Pera has a counting- 
 house there. The building at the bottom is the Custom- 
 house, or, as it should be called, the confusion-house ; 
 for if unfortunately you get goods in, Tis a hundred to 
 one if you ever get them out again. The rough bridge 
 you see yonder has only existed these last twenty years. 
 Before that was built, people were obliged to cross from 
 Stamboul to the European shore in caiques ; and now, 
 when three or four large vessels have to pass through 
 the bridge, it remains open for several hours, keeping 
 passengers waiting for that time. Two more light 
 bridges lower down cross the Golden Horn, and the 
 navigation terminates about two miles above the last 
 bridge. In caiques you can go as far as the sweet waters 
 of Europe, which are about five miles further up.” 
 
 “ Thank you,” said I ; “ pray be less prolix in your 
 descriptions.” 
 
 “ Well, now, sir, as we are come to Stamboul, or the 
 real city of Constantinople, allow me to explain to you 
 the names of some of those beautiful mosques with which 
 you see this vast city is crowded. The first and most 
 important is the Mosque of Sultan Bajazid, very remark- 
 able for the number of its volatile inhabitants, consisting 
 of several thousands of beautiful tame pigeons. That 
 high tower behind it is called the SeraskieEs Tower, and 
 also serves the purpose of a signal-tower in case of fire, 
 the same as that of Pera. Then follow the mosques of 
 Sultan Selim, Mahomet, Sedya Tamissi, Solimaniek, 
 Bayazid, Osmanliek, Sultan Achmet, Irene, and the 
 great Saint Sophia, which I would in particular advise 
 you to visit.” 
 
 “ Of course I shall do that, you may be certain.” 
 
NATIONAL CEUEMONY. 
 
 77 
 
 “ On the prominent part of this side of Saint Sophia 
 the ceremony of the Bairam is celebrated, at the close 
 of the great feast of the Ramazan. All the nobility of 
 the Empire are in duty bound to appear in new and 
 most gaudy costumes at this magnificent Oriental 
 pageant, which this year will take place at the end of 
 June, at about three o’clock in the morning.” 
 
 “ What a singular hour for so great a ceremony !” I 
 remarked. 
 
 “ Oh, that cannot be helped,” he replied, “ as it is regu- 
 lated by the revolution of the moon. An old Turk, with 
 whom I am well acquainted, told me that he recollected 
 its having happened at twelve o’clock in the day, and in 
 the middle of winter.” 
 
 “A strange custom,” said I. 
 
 “Well, sir, if you feel interested in Turkish habits 
 and religion, you should inquire about the six weeks of 
 Rhamadhan, when they starve all day, and get intoxi- 
 cated to madness at night.” 
 
 “ Thank you for your information ; but pray continue 
 your description.” 
 
 “I will. Near the very spot where this festival takes 
 place is the Sultan Mahmoud’s palace, the top of which 
 you can see through those high trees.” 
 
 “ Pray, what are those rows of small domes, like well- 
 corked bottles ?” 
 
 “ They are the kitchen chimneys.” 
 
 “ What, all of them ?” 
 
 “ Yes, sir ; I have often been there, and know well 
 enough that, although the Sultan no longer inhabits it, 
 two or three hundred men-cooks remain in the kitchens.” 
 “For what purpose, my friend, if no one lives there?” 
 “ Oh, somebody does. I believe there is a college for 
 some of the favourite sons of high Turkish families. 
 Here,” he continued, “ look at this uneven row of houses 
 with lattices. Do you know what they are ?” 
 
 “No ; pray what are they?” 
 
 “ Why, Sultan Mahmoud’s harem ; and it is most pro- 
 bably still inhabited by a few of his old favourites and 
 their suites, which are very numerous.” 
 
78 
 
 DISCIPLINE EOR THE LADIES. 
 
 “Well, upon my word, those species of chalets put 
 me very much in mind of chicken-cages.” 
 
 The English officer’s wife, to whom I have before 
 referred, and with whom I had some conversation during 
 the passage, came upon deck while my dragoman was 
 describing the surrounding scenery, and listened with 
 vivid interest, taking notes of the most interesting pas- 
 sages. The dragoman, turning quickly round — “Madam,” 
 said he, “you see that colossal spout shooting out at a 
 sharp incline towards the water. That is the spot from 
 whence, if any of the Turkish ladies prove disobedient or 
 faithless to their imperial lord and master, they are 
 stitched up in a sack alive, accompanied by a starving 
 cat and a venomous serpent, and shot into that mighty 
 watery grave, the Bosphorus.” 
 
 “ Monsieur S oyer, do you think that is true?” 
 
 “ I believe such things have been done, madam, for it 
 was pointed out to me the first thing this morning as 
 having been used for that purpose. I recollect some 
 years since reading the same tale either in a French or 
 English work ; I believe it was French. At all events, 
 European manners and customs are progressing through- 
 out the world, and have even reached Turkey. I hear 
 from every one, that the Sultan is a most amiable and 
 humane man. I would therefore recommend you to 
 reserve your look of horror- and indignation for more 
 modern calamities. You may be certain, if such things 
 have happened, they will never happen again, for, thank 
 Heaven, we live in a civilized era.” 
 
 “We should, perhaps, doubt such reports.” 
 
 “You are quite right, madam.” 
 
 “ There is another curious tale related of the Leander 
 Tower,” said the lady. 
 
 “There is; but my dragoman tells me the proper 
 name for it is La Tour de la Jeune Lille , as they say in 
 French, or the Maiden’s Tower.” 
 
 “ I was here when a French tutor came to Constanti- 
 nople,” said my dragoman, “ and the first thing he asked 
 me was — c Where is the Maiden’s Tower ?’ as the English 
 call it. At all events, madam, the story runs thus : — • 
 
THE FORTUNE-TELLER. 
 
 79 
 
 A great beauty, the daughter of some pacha, had her 
 fortune told by a celebrated gipsy, who apprised her 
 that she would never marry, as she was fated to die 
 young. The girl, terrified at the prediction, ran, and 
 in tears related to her father the fatal destiny said to be 
 in reserve for her. He immediately sent for the old 
 witch, and she repeated the fatal prophecy, adding, 
 moreover, that the young girl would die from the bite 
 of a serpent or some such venomous reptile. The 
 pacha having repeatedly asked the old woman if that 
 was the only kind of speedy death with which his 
 daughter was menaced, and having received a reply 
 in the affirmative, parted upon very friendly terms 
 with the hag, who was possessed, as he said, by an evil 
 spirit. He then caused this tower to be built for his 
 daughter's residence, and for several years she lived . in 
 this picturesque place, without being visited by any one 
 but her father, who continually supplied her with pro- 
 visions of the most delicate kind, and nosegays of the 
 finest flowers. It happened one day, that, on taking up 
 one of the bouquets in order to inhale the perfume, a 
 small insect stung her on the lip, and in a few hours she 
 expired in great agony, before any succour could be 
 obtained, as there was no communication with the land, 
 nor any antidote in readiness. So awful an event, in so 
 secluded a spot, had never been contemplated. The 
 pacha's intention had been to keep his daughter there 
 till she was of age to be married, and thus break the 
 spell of the old sorceress. The legend was thus related 
 to me by an Armenian gentleman who has lived here 
 nearly all his lifetime." 
 
 “Well, I admit that I have not only heard the story 
 before, but I recollect the incident of the death of the 
 young girl, from the bite of a reptile, very well ; and I 
 also heard that the name of the Tower of Leander is 
 applied to it ; but it has not the least relation to 
 the legend of the two lovers celebrated by Lord Byron, 
 who also swam from Sestos to Abydos." 
 
 As my people had returned, and were waiting for me, 
 I bade my fair compagnon de voyage adieu, expressing a hope 
 
80 
 
 THE SCENE CHANGES. 
 
 to have the pleasure of meeting her in Balaklava. Our 
 two caidjees rapidly flew away with us from the side of the 
 Simon, and soon landed us at the Tophand tumble-down 
 stairs. We are now on shore ; but what a contrast ! — the 
 fairy scene has disappeared, and we appear to be in the 
 midst of a penny show. The Tophane landing place is 
 nothing but a heap of rotten planks, parts of which have 
 given way, and the holes are rather dangerous, as one 
 might easily slip and break a leg. The very clean 
 and picturesque caidjees are waiting amidst heaps of 
 manure and the carcase of a dead horse, which had been 
 thrown into the Bosphorus and had drifted on shore. A 
 number of ill-looking, half-famished dogs were feeding 
 upon that heap of corruption. On inquiring of the son 
 of the proprietor of the hotel, who accompanied me, he 
 coolly told me that it had only been there a day or two, 
 and would probably remain for months — particularly the 
 skeleton — when the dogs had devoured all the flesh. The 
 odour arising from the carcass, and the filth daily cast 
 into the water, was very unwholesome, and quite unbear- 
 able ; and very glad was I to quit the great landing- 
 place of Tophane — so called, no doubt, from the extraor- 
 dinary amount of daily traffic between the shipping 
 above and the Asiatic shore. About seventy or eighty 
 caiques are always waiting there, as it is the principal 
 landing point at Constantinople. 
 
 Following my guide, we passed through a number of 
 dirty narrow streets, full of a black liquid mud, very ill 
 paved — if they could be called paved at all, amidst which 
 numerous leperous and villanous-looking dogs were snarl- 
 ing and fighting. Donkeys loaded with tiles, stones, and 
 long logs of wood filled up the filthy road ; besides gangs 
 of powerful and noisy Turkish hamals or porters, carrying 
 enormous loads upon long poles. The enchanting mirage 
 of the panoramic Constantinople vanished rapidly from 
 before my disenchanted eyes ; this ephemeral Paradise 
 of Mahomet changing at once into an almost insupport- 
 able purgatory. I could not imagine how such a mass 
 of ruins and of miserable wooden houses could, from so 
 short a distance, take such a brilliant aspect or create 
 
MUCK-MUDDY-MISED. 
 
 81 
 
 such ravishing sensations, as the first view of Constanti- 
 nople had raised in my mind from the deck of the Simois. 
 I now envied the fate of our fair fellow-traveller who so 
 much regretted that she could not disembark — were it 
 only for a few hours. Those few hours, nay, the first, 
 would have sufficed to break the spell. Reader, though 
 this is an exact description of our entrance into Constan- 
 tinople, I reasoned thus — It is an immense metropolis, 
 and no doubt something great exists within its walls. 
 I must wait patiently and try to find it out. 
 
 Reproaching my dragoman for bringing me through 
 such a vile part of the city, he quietly replied, in English, 
 “ There is no other road, sir ; it has rained very much 
 lately, which is the cause of so much mud” I now 
 perceived, that as far as the names of pavements go, the 
 difference between Constantinople and London was not 
 so great, — the former being miick-miiddy-mised , and the 
 latter macadamised . 
 
 At this moment we were turning the corner of the 
 Grand Mosque of Sultan Soliman ; and a pacha, in all 
 his obesity, mounted upon an Arabian horse, and followed 
 by his suite, six in number, rode full gallop through a 
 pond of liquid slush, splashing every one from head to 
 foot on either side the narrow street. An English 
 soldier at once sent him his military blessing; and the 
 Turk, spurring his horse, exclaimed, “Not Bono Johnny; 
 Not Bono Johnny ;” that being the name given to the 
 English by the Turks. After passing through several 
 similar streets, consisting of ruinous wooden shanties 
 and shops of the lowest order, “viz., chibouque tube 
 and pipe-bowl makers,” the interior of which were dirty 
 and mean, with scarcely any kind of stock, we arrived 
 at a fountain, in front of which was a semi-perpendicular 
 and narrow street. My guide informed me that my 
 hotel was at the end of this street. “ It is,” he con- 
 tinued, “ the Hotel d’ Angleterre, called by the English 
 — Messerie’s Hotel.” 
 
 “Thank God for that,” said I. In about twenty 
 minutes we arrived at the said hotel. As I had sent my 
 letter to Mr. Messerie, he soon appeared, and very 
 
 G 
 
 l 
 
82 
 
 TEEEACE OE THE HOTEL. 
 
 cordially shook me by the hand, and politely expressed 
 his regret at not being able to accommodate me. He 
 recommended the Hotel des Ambassadenrs. On my 
 saying that I was going there, he made me promise to 
 call upon him the next morning, the distance from his 
 house being but a few paces. 
 
 When I arrived, I at once retired to my apartment, 
 quite worn out with fatigue. Having taken some refresh- 
 ment, I made up my mind not to dine at the table d’hote. 
 I learnt that Colonel St. George, Captain Ponsonby, &c., 
 had gone to the Hotel de PEurope, and I therefore felt 
 free for that evening. About five o’clock, Mons. Panta- 
 leone Veracleo, a young Greek, the son of the hotel- 
 keeper, came and informed me that the table d’hote 
 would be ready at six. Thanking him for his attention, 
 I proceeded to ask several questions about Constantinople,, 
 and also the distance from the hotel to the British 
 Embassy ? 
 
 “Not five minutes’ walk, sir,” said he; “you can see 
 it from the top of the hotel. Our house is the highest 
 in Pera !” 
 
 We mounted to the terrace, and my conductor pointed 
 it out to me. From this terrace I again beheld a 
 similar panorama to that which I had witnessed on board 
 the Simms , and by which I had been so much charmed. 
 In order to enjoy it fully, I expressed my desire to remain 
 a short time alone. Having directed my attention to 
 the different points of view, Mr. Veracleo left me. 
 
83 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 A BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OE CONSTANTINOPLE EROM PERA. 
 
 An accomplished linguist — Le Petit Champ des Morts — Bird’s-eye 
 view — Breakfast table of the hotel — English Embassy — Inter- 
 view with Lady Stratford de Redcliffe — The sanctuary of high 
 diplomacy — Lord Stratford de Redcliffe — Signor Roco Yido — 
 His apartment — Importance of a good dinner — Lord Stratford’s 
 diplomatic banquet postponed — Probable consequences — Quota- 
 tion from the Gastronomic Regenerator. 
 
 The rays of the sun on that showery March clay assumed, 
 towards five p*m., in the regions of the West, a most 
 brilliant aspect. The vaporous edges of the humid 
 clouds seemed gilded with vermilion and silver tints. 
 The floods of light, like living fire, fell upon the rich 
 masses of the domes of various mosques, and hundreds 
 of pointed and slender minarets. While gazing in lone- 
 liness and contemplation, from the terrace of the Hotel 
 des Ambassadeurs, at this charming spot in the East, to 
 which the beautiful mirage of an Oriental sunset lent an 
 indescribable charm, a shrieking voice was heard from 
 the lower terrace, saying, “ II signor, la table d’ outre est 
 servi ! et il se refroidit fortement ! La soupe il etoit tout 
 a fait demenagee of the tureen \” Looking- over the 
 railing, I perceived the interpreter of the hotel, who was 
 unfortunately the possessor of several tongues, addressing 
 himself to me. He, no doubt, meant to imply that the 
 table-d^hote had been served, and the soup already 
 removed from the table. This olla poclrida of languages 
 having produced no effect upon my mind, half an hour 
 after, the son of the hotel-keeper made his appearance, 
 who, though speaking French like certain horned beasts in 
 Spain, clearly gave me to understand that I was too late 
 for dinner. Taking advantage of his unexpected visit, I 
 
 G 2 
 
84 
 
 LE PETIT CHAMP DES MORTS. 
 
 inquired, looking towards the arsenal, “ What part of the 
 metropolis is that opening near us ?” 
 
 “ Le Petit Champ des Morts, or the Small Field of the 
 Dead, — so-called, though nearly two miles in circum- 
 ference, which is now so full that no further interments 
 are allowed within its area,” — he replied. 
 
 By the aid of an opera- glass, I plainly distinguished 
 beneath us a large pile of irregular stones, encircled by a 
 railing. I, at first sight, took this for the ruins of a kind 
 of hippodrome which might have succumbed to an 
 earthquake, each stone having lost its perpendicular, as 
 though purposely to mock its fellow, and not making 
 the slightest attempt to perpetuate the grandeur of their 
 solemn mission. Horses, mules, and donkeys, were seen 
 dragging loads of large planks to and fro, six or eight on 
 either side. The ends of the planks kept cutting rather 
 deep zig-zags into the soft ground, and were continually 
 catching against tombstones. The whole formed a kind 
 of gigantic American bagatelle board, where, when the 
 ball is violently thrown to the top, it descends by degrees, 
 catching the points in every direction in its way down. 
 Next to it music was heard. Boys were romping, some 
 playing with marbles, or five para pieces, making use of 
 the stones for their point of departure. Lemonade, cakes, 
 raid, and variegated bonbons, oranges, lemons, &c., were 
 briskly purchased by the promenaders, who, amongst 
 this cohue-boltue of industry, were seen gaily crossing and 
 recrossing the green paths. Some reclined against the 
 grave-stones, forming, as it were, an arm-chair. Amongst 
 them, however, were but few Mussulmans, some turning 
 Dervishes and Howlers, Greeks, Armenians, French, 
 Pe rotes, Smyrniotes, and here and there gazing with 
 astonishing disapprobation, some of the children of 
 Albion. All excepting the latter might be seen gaily 
 fluttering from tombstone to tombstone, like busy bees 
 from flower to flower, in a perfumed pasture in summer. 
 Here and there clumps of cypress trees looked like the 
 mournful guardians of this desecrated spot. Some of 
 the marble stones are still vividly stained with the blood 
 of the haughty and rebellious Janissaries, whose crumbling 
 
ARABIAN NIGHTS. 
 
 85 
 
 bodies lay beneath. Such is the pious veneration of the 
 Oriental population for the remains of their ancestors in 
 the Petit Champ des Morts at Pera. 
 
 The principal buildings which grace this foreign 
 quarter are the English, French, Austrian, Russian, 
 Sardinian, and Prussian embassies. The former, called 
 the Palais d’Angleterre, now the residence of Lord 
 Stratford de Redcliffe, interested me most, as I was in 
 duty bound to pay my humble respects to his lordship 
 and her ladyship the next morning. It brought to my 
 mind from a distance the celebrated building of the 
 Reform Club, which gave Barry his high reputation as 
 an architect, and where your humble servant passed above 
 two lustres of his culinary career. 
 
 While the new moon was faintly shining through 
 transparent clouds, the hundred minarets of Stamboul 
 and its vicinity had been illuminated for a festival, and 
 their fiery collarettes a la Vandyke proudly carried those 
 rings of diamonds high towards the heavenly sphere. 
 Eight o’clock was striking at the Catholic church of 
 Saint Mary. All was darkness and silence. Hastily 
 retiring to my bed-room, perfectly satisfied with having 
 fed my mind, although I had probably neglected internal 
 restoration, I soon fell into a most profound slumber, in 
 which I saw nothing but churchyards, clumps of cypress 
 trees, mosques, and illuminated minarets, till I awoke at 
 daybreak. 
 
 My wandering mind having fluttered all night about 
 the Oriental metropolis, I was not in the slightest degree 
 surprised to find myself in the morning in the land which 
 had given birth to the Arabian Nights. The sound of a 
 cracked bell was heard from the bottom of the staircase^ 
 inviting each traveller to his morning meal. There was 
 a goodly number present, and we sat down about thirty- 
 five. The majority were military men, of various ranks, 
 mostly French and English. Some expressed their 
 regret at my absence the previous evening, fancying — so 
 much for imagination — the dinner would have been 
 more choice had the landlord been personally acquainted 
 with me. At all events, the breakfast-table was well 
 
86 
 
 THE ENGLISH EMBASSY. 
 
 supplied, and I made a hearty meal, amidst the buzzing 
 of various languages. 
 
 As it was nearly eleven o’clock by the time I had 
 finished, I started for the Embassy, and after about 
 twenty minutes of most laborious gymnastic exercise 
 over the ill-paved Rue (Ruelle it should be called) de 
 Pera, I entered the small wooden gate at the grand 
 entrance of the Palais d’Angleterre, which is majesti- 
 cally located in a fine open space of ground, encircled 
 by a large terrace, with parterres of shrubs and high 
 trees, from which spot a most favourable view of the 
 rich mass of building around is obtained. Modest 
 grandeur, boldness, and simplicity of execution, seem to 
 have been the architect’s sole ambition. I shall probably, 
 in another chapter, describe the beauty and comfort of 
 its interior. The porter having taken my card, I was 
 immediately shown into the library. A few moments 
 spent in this sanctuary of belles lettres afforded me a fair 
 opportunity of closely examining a very excellent and well- 
 executed painting, the style of which assured me that 
 it was a good portrait of his Sublime Majesty, the 
 present Sultan, Abdul Medjid. Ten minutes had scarcely 
 elapsed, when Lady Stratford entered, and addressed me 
 in French, with a smile of welcome difficult to forget. 
 “ Well, Monsieur Soyer, we heard of your departure from 
 England for the East.” 
 
 “ No doubt you did, my lady.” 
 
 “ And I sincerely hope that you will succeed in your 
 laudable undertaking. I have no doubt your suggestions 
 will prove highly beneficial, and be well received by the 
 authorities at the various hospitals, which, in your de- 
 partment, are much in want of some kind of regulation. 
 I also hope that the Minister- at- War has invested you 
 with power to act according to your own judgment.” 
 
 (C I am happy to inform your ladyship,” said I, “that her 
 Majesty’s Government has not only granted me the power 
 required to superintend and, if possible, improve the diet 
 at the Hospital, but have also honoured me with their full 
 confidence as regards ordering anything extra which may 
 be required, so long as it tends to the comfort of the sick/ 
 
LADY STRATFORD DE REDCLIFFE. 
 
 87 
 
 <{ Well, I am very happy to hear that such is the 
 case,” replied her ladyship ; “ for without such power 
 your services would not have been so effective.” 
 
 “ I can assure your ladyship that I would not have- 
 undertaken this task if such powers had not been granted 
 to me by Lord Panmure. I was well aware of the 
 numerous difficulties I should meet with; which are 
 almost unavoidable in every kind of administration. But 
 so highly do I appreciate the honour conferred upon me, 
 that; far from taking advantage of the unlimited confi- 
 dence reposed in me; it will be my pride to try and make 
 all my contemplated improvements with the present 
 governmental allowance; and I have no doubt that in 
 time; by judicious organization and good management; 
 as well as by using everything to the best advantage; I 
 shall economize; instead of increasing the expense to the 
 nation. Having heard that your ladyship has; from the 
 commencement of this serious war; devoted the best part 
 of your time to the various hospitals; in watching over 
 the sick and wounded; I shall esteem it a great favour if 
 you will direct me how to act; in order to insure prompt 
 success; and what articles of diet are most required for 
 the patients.” 
 
 “ It will afford me great pleasure; Monsieur Soyer, to 
 give you the principal information; but Signor B-oco Vido; 
 my head manager and cook; will furnish the details; as he 
 daily prepares large quantities of comforts; — such as beef- 
 tea; mutton and chicken broth; calves* -foot jelly; &c., &e., 
 
 - — and distributes them himself at the Barrack and General 
 Hospitals; also at Hyder Pacha; where the officers are.** 
 “ Indeed; my lady. Such information from Signor 
 Boco would be invaluable to me.** 
 
 “Very well; I will send for him.** 
 
 “ I beg your ladyship’s pardon; but I always under- 
 stood that the hospitals were on the other side the 
 Bosphorus.** 
 
 “ YeS; Monsieur Soyer, the great military ones are ; 
 but as at the beginning of the campaign, after the battle 
 of the Alma, none of them had extra diet kitchens, we 
 prepare food here and send it over.** 
 
88 
 
 SANCTUARY OF HIGH DIPLOMACY. 
 
 “ I understand that the Bosphorus is sometimes so 
 rough that no one can cross it.” 
 
 “ Such is the ease; but we have a good-sized caique, and 
 I can assure you that, although it is so very dangerous, it 
 has never missed going one day ; and since the battle of 
 Inkermann, it often goes to Kululee, where we have 
 opened another hospital, nearly three miles from this. 
 Before you see Signor Roco, if you will follow me, I 
 will inquire whether Lord Stratford is disengaged, as I 
 have no doubt he will be pleased to see you.” 
 
 “ I am your ladyship*s most humble servant,” was my 
 reply. 
 
 After walking over the best part of the grand square 
 gallery, and crossing before the magnificent marble 
 hall and gigantic staircase, we ascended to a loftier 
 story. A gentle tap at the door gained us admittance 
 to the sanctuary of high diplomacy/ A plain screen 
 was all the furniture to be seen. A few words from her 
 ladyship soon brought me in communication with his 
 Excellency, who, though much engaged (being sur- 
 rounded by mountains of official papers), received me in 
 a most cheerful and friendly manner. After I had said 
 a few words relative to the mission entrusted to me by 
 the British Government, and her ladyship had briefly 
 narrated our former conversation. Lord Stratford kindly 
 expressed the pleasure it would give him to hear of my 
 success in that important department. “A good diet,” 
 said Lady Stratford, “ being of paramount importance to 
 every one in a state of debility. Monsieur Soyer,” con- 
 tinued her ladyship, “ also wishes to see Roco, to learn 
 from him, as he has now had several months* practice 
 making various aliments for the patients, what kinds 
 are most in request by the doctors.** 
 
 “ No doubt,** Lord Redcliffe replied, “ Roco will be 
 happy to give you all the information you may require 
 upon the subject. He is a very good man, and exerts 
 himself to the utmost for the hospitals.** 
 
 Lord Stratford again expressed his good wishes and 
 promises of kind support, whereupon her ladyship and your 
 humble servant retired. The ambassadress then ordered 
 
SIGNOR ROCO YIDO. 
 
 89 
 
 the footman in waiting to conduct me to Signor Roeo’s 
 apartment; expressing her desire to meet me with 
 him the next day at the Kululee and Scutari hospitals. 
 I promised to attend at those places on the following 
 morning, and took my leave. 
 
 A walk through the gallery and corridor of that noble 
 mansion brought us to Signor Roco Vido’s door. An 
 indication on the outside apprised me that my cicerone 
 was a child of la belle Italie, which at first caused me 
 some fear lest this should create impediments and delay 
 in our business transactions, as I only understood the 
 language of the Italian opera. A few words from the 
 footman soon brought me in amicable contact with the 
 major-domo of the Palais d’Angleterre, who spoke excel- 
 lent English, and, like his illustrious master, was sur- 
 rounded by archives, but only of culinary and household 
 affairs. The contents of these, though not so important 
 to the world, were nearly as substantial, more especially 
 the bill of fare, which in itself is capable of influencing 
 any diplomatic subject. A good one gratifies the stomach 
 and soothes the brain, which is necessarily influenced by 
 the quality, succulence, and scientific preparation of the 
 aliments imparted to the first organ. 
 
 Such was the important office entrusted to the guidance 
 of Signor Roco Yido. And who can say, after all, that 
 the late destructive war was not partly, or even entirely, 
 caused by a dinner ? Did not the French revolution of 
 ’48 emanate from a banquet ? and upon this occasion, 
 1854, six years after, a most unaccountable gastronomic 
 event occurred. Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, on his 
 return to Constantinople as plenipotentiary, had for the 
 first time invited his Excellency Prince Menschikoff to a 
 grand diplomatic dinner, where all the representatives of 
 the then united Courts were to assemble. The day was 
 fixed for the 21st of March, 1854, and the invitations 
 were cordially accepted, most especially by the represen- 
 tative of the Czar; he being, no doubt, anxious to read 
 upon the brow of the diplomatist the political feeling of 
 his nation. That very day, towards noon, the Sultan’s 
 mother died. In the morning she had written a letter 
 
90 
 
 IMPORTANCE OF A GOOD DINNER. 
 
 to his Excellency, expressive of her full confidence that 
 he would study the future welfare of her son in his 
 relations with the British Government. On account of 
 this mournful event, and with a most profound feeling of 
 respect and veneration for the Imperial mourner, the 
 dinner was postponed for a week ; and while the dark veil 
 was laid over the banqueting-table, and the black seal 
 was set upon the batterie de cuisine , and numerous bouches 
 a feu de V Ambassade britannique , his Excellency Prince 
 Menschikoff was on board a Russian man-of-war anchored 
 at the mouth of the Black Sea, waiting with all the 
 dignity and defiance imaginable for the determination of 
 peace or war. The diplomatic banquet never took place ! 
 the war did ! 
 
 I consider a postponed diplomatic dinner to be an 
 universal calamity, especially when only a few hours’ 
 notice of the postponement is given ; and I cannot but 
 quote the Gastronomic Regenerator , page 312, published 
 in the year 1842, in which I say — 
 
 “ Rien ne dispose mieux 1 J esprit humain a des transac- 
 tions amicales qu’un diner bien confu et artistement 
 prepare. Lisez Fhistoire, et vous y trouverez que, dans 
 tous les temps et chez tous les peuples, le bien qui s’est 
 fait, et quelquefois le mal, fut toujours precede ou suivi 
 d’un copieux diner.” 
 
 Translation . — “ Nothing can prepare the human mind 
 for amicable intercourse better than a well-conceived and 
 artistically-prepared dinner. Read history, and you will 
 ascertain that at all periods, and amongst all nations, the 
 benefits, and sometimes the evils, they experienced, were 
 either preceded or followed by a good dinner.” 
 
91 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FIRST VIEW OF THE SCENE OF ACTION. 
 
 Cordial reception — Table-d’hote — Absence of tlie fair sex — Warlike 
 sentiments— Toasts — Scene at the Tophane landing-place — A 
 chorus of boatmen — Caiques and caidjees — Romantic illusions 
 dispelled — Crossing the Bosphorus — The Barrack Hospital — 
 Lord William Paulet — Warm welcome — Dr. Cumming’s apart- 
 • ment — Plans discussed — Melancholy sights — Return to Pera — 
 Another conversation with Signor Roco Yido — Articles supplied 
 by him to the hospitals — Wounded Russians — Origin of the 
 hospital — An appointment. 
 
 The same day, I despatched one of my men to the 
 Barrack Hospital at Scutari, to inform Lord William 
 Paulet — at that period Brigadier- General of the* British 
 army — of my arrival at Constantinople, and to inquire at 
 what hour his lordship would favour me with an inter- 
 view. Upon my return from the Palais d'Angleterre, I 
 found that my man Julien had arrived from Scutari, much 
 pleased with his lordship's reception, but terribly fright- 
 ened by his passage en caique across the Bosphorus, 
 which that day was so rough that all his clothes were 
 wet through. “ The caidjee would not take me there and 
 back for less than five shillings," said he. 
 
 “ Well, never mind that, so long as you have seen his 
 lordship and are safe upon terra firma” 
 
 “ I must tell you, sir, that upon announcing your 
 arrival, his lordship seemed very much pleased, and 
 observed, r So Monsieur Soyer has arrived ! Where is 
 he ?' c At Pera, my lord, at the Hotel des Ambassadeurs.' 
 ‘ I had the pleasure of knowing M. Soyer/ said his lord- 
 ship, f when he came to Ireland in the year of the famine. 
 Tell him I shall be happy to see him any time to-morrow 
 between the hours of nine and four.' € Thank you, my 
 lord. I shall not fail to acquaint M. Soyer of the kind 
 reception you have given me on his behalf.' " 
 
92 
 
 A SERIES OF VISITS. 
 
 Highly gratified at the kind reception I had received 
 from Lord and Lady Stratford de Itedcliffe, and fixing 
 my visit to Lord William Paulet for nine or ten the next 
 morning, I then visited General Cannon at Messerie's 
 Hotel, to inform him of the progress I was making, and 
 to tell him that all appeared encouraging. I felt it my 
 duty to do this, as he and all the officers on board the 
 Simois expressed considerable interest in my under- 
 taking. As General Cannon was out, I had the pleasure 
 of seeing his aide-de-camp, Captain Harbuckle, who pro- 
 mised to inform the General of the subject of my visit. 
 On inquiring for Mr. Messerie, I found him busily 
 engaged in the entrance-hall. He took me to his private 
 room, and we had a long conversation. He very kindly 
 gave me much valuable information respecting the 
 products of the country, which, he stated, differed much 
 from those found in the English markets in quality, 
 though little in price, as all kinds of provisions had risen 
 to double, and in some cases triple, what they were before 
 the commencement of the war. 
 
 “ That,” I answered, “ could not fail to be the case, 
 considering the immense influx of troops daily arriving 
 at Constantinople.” 
 
 “ Any information or assistance you may require. 
 Monsieur, I shall, as a confrere , be happy to give you, 
 and will also endeavour to render myself useful as well as 
 agreeable.” 
 
 I promised to pay him a visit now and then when I 
 came to Pera, and we parted. It would be difficult for 
 any one to imagine the immense number of persons who 
 daily went in and out of this large hotel. The spacious 
 hall was crowded with baggage. In fact, there is but 
 one hotel in Pera, or we might say in Constantinople, 
 and that is the one. 
 
 I next called at the “ Hotel de PEurope,” to see Captain 
 Ponsonby and Colonel St. George. I found they had 
 just before left, with the intention of dining at the table- 
 dTiote at the “ Hotel des Ambassadeurs.” Upon my 
 arrival there, I found a number of my fellow-travellers, all 
 come, as they said, in expectation of finding a better dinner 
 
WARLIKE PEELINGS# 
 
 93 
 
 than at their hotel, ip. consequence of my being there. 
 We certainly had a very tolerable dinner, which stamped 
 for a time the reputation of the hotel for having one of 
 the best tables-d’hote in Constantinople. The room was 
 very spacious and lofty, the table well laid out, orna- 
 mented with numerous fine bouquets of flowers, and 
 lighted with wax lights. We sat down about forty, 
 principally military men. 
 
 Over glasses of Greek champagne and Bordeaux wine, 
 several laughable anecdotes relating to our voyage were 
 told. Expressions of admiration at the view of the 
 Moslem city from the Bosphorus — of disappointment at 
 the disenchantment experienced on landing — were freely 
 uttered. In fact, we all seemed to enter upon our cam- 
 paign with most flourishing prospects ; but we could not 
 help remarking, and feeling at heart, the want of ladies 
 at our board. Not one adorned our festival. This 
 gave us a sad prestige of the deprivation of female 
 society we should be condemned to in the Crimea. 
 Such was to be our fate throughout the campaign. 
 At the time, none seemed to feel the loss of those they 
 loved or had loved so dearly. No ; all were for war ! war ! 
 and glory at any risk. Bloodshed, epidemics, destruction, 
 loss of life, &c., were matters of little moment. The 
 very air we breathed seemed to smell of powder. All 
 these horrors had steeled men’s hearts, and in so doing, 
 seemed to have banished all rational feeling for home. 
 Men seldom thought of their wives and families, or at 
 least never spoke of them ; and if a young and tender- 
 hearted warrior did think of his anticipated fair com- 
 panion or fiancee , he dared not talk of her — every one 
 would have laughed at him. 
 
 In spite of this, one member of the fair sisterhood, 
 and the ornament of her sex, was not forgotten; and 
 when the health of Victoria, Queen of England, was 
 proposed by a French Colonel, the shouts and hurrahs 
 it elicited did not cease for many minutes. Why 
 such enthusiasm? Believe me, it was not in honour 
 of her Majesty’s sex. No ! it was an acknowledgment 
 of the martial glory of the country ; for, a few minutes 
 
94 
 
 SCREAMING TURKS. 
 
 after, the same sentiment was expressed for the Emperor 
 of France ; and again, for the union and alliance of 
 the three nations. This proceeding, instead of opening 
 the heart to feelings of love, and of calling forth the 
 last sentiment of the kind which might have lingered 
 there, aroused a sterner inspiration. Such are what I 
 call the calamities, if not the horrors, of war ; where 
 all is destruction, and humanity is rendered inhuman. 
 This was the prevailing feeling of about forty well- 
 bred and brave military men — fifteen of whom were 
 French, and the remainder Englishmen — sitting at the 
 table-d’hote of the “ Hotel des Ambassadeurs,” at Pera, 
 on the 20th of March, 1854. Of that company, nearly a 
 third, a few months after, had sacrificed their lives for 
 the glory of their country. 
 
 The next morning, at half-past eight, I went with 
 my dragoman to the horrid Tophane landing-place. 
 There I was surrounded by at least twenty caidjees, 
 who added to the disagreeables of this spot an evil of 
 which I was not aware at my first visit. Just fancy 
 twenty Turks screaming out their to me unknown 
 language, and performing, at the same time, a peculiar 
 pantomime with their fists so close to your visage, yon 
 might almost fancy they were telling you that, if you 
 dared to take any other caique than theirs, they would 
 punch your head for you, or throw you into the Bos- 
 phorus. In such a scene of noise and confusion, it is 
 almost, if not altogether, impossible for one to make up 
 one’s mind whether one requires one caique or several. 
 The mistake occurs in this, that they offer you a caique 
 with one, two, or three caidjees. 
 
 As the Bosphorus was very rough, my man hired 
 a craft with three pair of oars — the two and three- 
 oared boats being the only ones that went out that 
 day — the small caiques with one pair of oars seldom 
 venturing out in such weather. We soon stepped into 
 the boat; and, to my delight, we had no sooner set 
 foot in the one we had selected, than, as if by a magic 
 spell, every tongue was silent. About two minutes after, 
 just as we were pushing off, two English officers made 
 
A HARD PULL. 
 
 95 
 
 their appearance, and experienced more trouble than I 
 had done, as I had with me a man who spoke their 
 language. We got afloat quickly enough, and the short 
 spiteful waves constantly dashed in our faces, and 
 rocked us about in all directions. To my astonishment, 
 the rowers took quite a different direction to the Barrack 
 Hospital, which appeared to me close at hand. On making 
 a remark to this effect to my dragoman, he told me the 
 current was so strong that they were obliged to fetch up a 
 long way to avoid being dashed against the Seraglio Point, 
 or the chains and hawsers of the vessels at anchor. “ Oh, 
 thank you/'’ said I, “let them go as many miles round 
 as they please, especially as I have till four o^clock to see 
 his lordship.” 
 
 After a long pull we came close to the Tour de 
 la Jeune Fille, and I told my man Auguste to inquire 
 respecting the truth of the tale narrated in a previous 
 chapter. The only reply he could get from the three 
 eaidjees respecting this wonderful story was, that they 
 knew of no young maiden who dwelt there; but that, on 
 the contrary, an old Armenian woman, in summer time, 
 sold bad coffee and worse tobacco. A few weeks after- 
 wards the cafe was opened, and, instead of la jeune fille , 
 there was an obesity of about sixty years old — coiffee a la 
 grecque — fresh flowers ornamenting the remains of what, 
 no doubt, was once a fine head of hair. 
 
 The current here is so strong and rapid, that the waves 
 inundate the best part of the tower. Auguste told me 
 this place was at all times the most dangerous, and that 
 in bad weather a single-oared caique could not cross 
 near it. A few minutes after, under shelter of the high 
 Scutari banks and out of the current, we were, compara- 
 tively speaking, in smooth water. But our poor eaidjees 
 were in a violent perspiration, though the weather was 
 rather cold, and paused to take breath. It took us above 
 an hour to cross, though you could see the hospital close 
 at hand at starting. At last we arrived at the landing- 
 place, which, thanks to the English, was far better than 
 the Tophane one. 
 
 The hospital being on an elevated spot, and not more 
 
96 
 
 INTERVIEW WITH LORD W. PAULET. 
 
 than a thousand yards distant, appeared three times as 
 large as it did from the deck of the Simois ; and here 
 again, at sight of such a gigantic establishment, my 
 courage failed me, and for the second time 'I regretted 
 having undertaken such a difficult task. I immediately 
 went to the grand hospital entrance, the residence of 
 Lord W. Paulet, thanking my stars that I had the 
 honour of being known to him. I was shown the general* s 
 quarters, and sent in my card. I. was desired to follow, 
 and had no sooner entered, than his lordship came to 
 meet me, and shook hands cordially. 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer,” said he, “ we have not had the 
 pleasure of meeting since 1847, when I saw you in Dublin, 
 — the year of the famine in Ireland.” 
 
 These words recalled the scene to my mind. 
 
 “1 was at the Royal Barracks, with the Duke of 
 Cambridge, when you opened your kitchen in the 
 Barrack Square — in fact, before our window. The Duke 
 and myself paid you a visit the day the Lord-Lieutenant 
 opened it. You had nearly a thousand visitors that 
 morning, and fed between four and five thousand poor 
 people in the course of the day. The samples of food 
 prepared by you were excellent, though made at such a 
 moderate price, I assure you,” his lordship continued, 
 speaking to some gentlemen present, one of whom knew 
 me while at the Reform Club. 
 
 “ Indeed, my lord, you give me much pleasure by 
 recalling reminiscences of my success at that period ; and 
 I accept the same as a good omen for my present under- 
 taking, especially when taken in connexion with your 
 valuable support.” 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, you may depend upon my support ; 
 hut I tell you beforehand, you will have no end of 
 difficulties.” 
 
 “Well, my lord, with your support, a good will, and 
 perseverance, I have no doubt of doing some good.” I 
 then presented Lord Panmure*s letter respecting my 
 mission. While his lordship was reading it, I was asked 
 by several officers present, “ What are you sent out for ?” 
 Lord William Paulet, overhearing them, replied, “To set 
 
DR. CUMMING’s OFFICE. 
 
 97 
 
 us to rights in our kitchen department, to be sure. This 
 letter from the Minister-at- W ar shall be closely attended to. 
 Monsieur Soyer, and I will this day give orders to that 
 effect.” 
 
 From this I understood that Lord Panmure had given 
 instructions for everything I might require. 
 
 “Well/* said his lordship, “how many cooks have you 
 brought with you ?” 
 
 “ Four, my lord.” 
 
 “ Only four ! I thought you would want many more 
 than that. However, let me know what you require. 
 You are staying at Pera?” 
 
 “ Yes ; but I intend coming over to-morrow, to make a 
 beginning.” 
 
 “ I must get you a house in town ; we are so full here, 
 we have no room to spare.” 
 
 “ I’m not sorry for that — it will be a change of air — 
 though I shall require a small room in the hospital.” 
 “We’ll see about that — but tell me, of how many 
 does your staff consist ?” 
 
 “ About seven or eight.” 
 
 “ I’ll try and get you a house to yourself.” 
 
 “ Many thanks, my lord. I assure you that the kind 
 reception accorded to me will never be forgotten by your 
 humble servant. In order that no time may be lost — and 
 I am aware that your lordship’s is highly valuable — will 
 you kindly instruct some one to show me Dr. Cumming’s 
 apartment, as I have a letter of introduction to that gen- 
 tleman from Dr. Andrew Smith ; and I am anxious to 
 confer with the Doctor upon the subject of the new diets, 
 and submit them for his special approval. 
 
 His lordship then directed Dr. Rutherford to show me to 
 Dr. Cumming’s office, which we reached through a long 
 corridor lined with beds on either side, and occupied by sick 
 and wounded. The apartment was full of persons waiting 
 to see the doctor. On sending in my card I was immedi- 
 ately admitted, and very politely received. Dr. Cumming 
 was, of course, full of business. He read the letter from 
 Dr. A. Smith, and then said, “ Monsieur Soyer, you may 
 depend upon it that I will do all in my power to assist you.” 
 
 H ' 
 
98 
 
 TOUR ROUND THE HOSPITAL. 
 
 I then stated my plan of commencing with a hundred 
 patients, of which he highly approved. “The next 
 thing/' I observed, “ will be to find a suitable place for 
 a kitchen." 
 
 “ I think," said he, “ the General Hospital will be 
 the best to begin at, as it has always been used as an 
 hospital. You will find everything more appropriate 
 there." I expressed a great desire to commence with 
 the Barrack Hospital, to which Dr. Gumming immediately 
 consented. 
 
 “ Dr. Rutherford, you will perhaps be kind enough to 
 show Mr. Soyer over the hospital, and assist him in 
 selecting a suitable spot to commence operations." 
 Doctor Gumming again repeated his promise of giving 
 me every support, and said, “ You know my office, and 
 I shall at all times be glad to see you upon matters of 
 business." 
 
 “ You may depend upon it. Doctor, that I shall only 
 trouble you with indispensable matters, and such with 
 which it is most important you should be acquainted." 
 
 We then parted. The Doctor and myself walked round 
 the whole of the corridors, both sides of which were filled 
 with patients. The numerous wards round the barracks, 
 each of which held about thirty patients, were also full. 
 These melancholy sights have been so often depicted in 
 letters in the public press, that it would only be re- 
 opening an old wound were I to dilate upon them. There 
 is a wide difference between seeing the thing upon the 
 spot, in all its painful and wretched truth, and in merely 
 reading a well-written description. This fact all who 
 have witnessed such spectacles have felt, without being 
 able or willing to describe. I must say that, in spite of 
 the sang froid and energy I possess, the sight of such 
 calamities made a most extraordinary impression upon 
 me, and produced an effect which lasted for several days 
 afterwards. At length I found a place on one of the 
 large staircases, in which I could make an excellent 
 model kitchen, and of this discovery I at once informed 
 Dr. Gumming. The afternoon was drawing to a close, 
 and being obliged to return to Pera, I was compelled to 
 
SIGNOR ROCO YIDO AGAIN. 
 
 99 
 
 leave without seeing Miss Nightingale, for whom I had 
 brought several letters — one in particular, from the 
 Duchess of Sutherland. 
 
 In the evening I went to the British Embassy to have 
 a little conversation with Signor Roco Yido, respecting 
 the Kululee hospital, and obtained from him a list of the 
 various sorts of diets he had been supplying. He then 
 informed me that our visit to Kululee with her ladyship 
 was deferred for a day or two on account of so many 
 visitors staying at the Embassy on their way to the 
 Crimea. This news I received with much pleasure, being 
 anxious to commence operations at the Barrack Hospital. 
 As it was near Lord Stratford’s dinner-hour, he requested 
 me to sit down, and gave me the book containing the 
 account of all that he had supplied from the beginning 
 of the war. This I took for my guide. 
 
 The list of articles supplied by Signor Roco Yido to the 
 different hospitals is so various that it would fill several 
 pages, and would not be interesting or useful. They 
 consisted principally of beef-tea, chicken and mutton 
 broth, calves’ -foot jelly, arrowroot, semolina, &c. &c. The 
 supply commenced four days after the battle of the Alma, 
 on which occasion several wounded Russians were taken 
 prisoners and brought to the Barrack Hospital. They 
 were about twenty in number, among whom was General 
 Chekanoff, who died seven days after from his wounds. 
 He had received three bayonet thrusts, and two balls had 
 passed through his body : his age was sixty- five. He lies 
 in the Cemetery near the General Hospital at Scutari. 
 A small piece of rotten plank marks the resting-place 
 of this brave defender of his country’s cause, from which 
 in a short time the inscription will probably be erased.* 
 Signor Marco Yido, brother of Roco Yido, who afterwards 
 acted as Miss Nightingale’s interpreter, informed me that 
 at that time the barracks which were afterwards turned 
 into an hospital were entirely destitute of beds, sheets, 
 blankets, chairs, tables, cooking utensils, or food of any 
 
 * This remark may probably come to the notice of his friends, and 
 lead to a monument being erected to his memory, which, no doubt, 
 he well deserves. 
 
 n 2 
 
100 
 
 AN APPOINTMENT, 
 
 description, the whole of which were supplied by Lady de 
 Bedcliffe ; the General Hospital was then used by the 
 Turkish army. This was the origin of the largest and 
 most unique hospital in the world. Signor Marco Yido 
 did not quit the general’s side till he had expired. The 
 latter expressed his sincere thanks to him, and also to her 
 ladyship, for the extreme kindness shown to him. 
 
 Signor Roco re-entered, as I was about to leave, having 
 just written a few words of thanks. He said, “ I have 
 told my lady you are here. She will be glad to see you 
 before dinner, if you wish it.” 
 
 “No, my dear sir, I do not wish to disturb her lady- 
 ship ; but pray tell her that I am entirely at her orders 
 respecting the Kululee or Hyder Pacha Hospitals.” 
 
 “ By-the-bye, I am going early to-morrow to Hyder 
 Pacha, — perhaps you would like to come with me?” 
 said he. 
 
 “ I shall be most happy, if you go before twelve o’clock,” 
 I replied, “ as at that hour I have several appointments 
 at the Barrack Hospital.” 
 
 “ We will start at eight o’clock, if you like.” 
 
101 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 COMMENCEMENT OF THE CULINAHY CAMPAIGN. 
 
 Good news — First meeting with Mr. Bracebridge — The Hyder 
 Pacha Hospital — Bad cooking — The General Hospital — Meeting 
 with Miss Nightingale — Plans discussed — Miss Nightingale’s 
 anxiety for a change of system — A visitorial pilgrimage — Miss 
 Nightingale’s dietary kitchen — Bad charcoal — Extra diet kitchens 
 — Question of seasoning — The general kitchen — Imperfect 
 arrangements — An old acquaintance — A promising commence- 
 ment. 
 
 The next morning* we started as agreed upon. On 
 arriving at Scutari, I met a soldier who informed me 
 that a house in Cambridge-street was being prepared for 
 my reception. “ It is not two minutes* walk from here/* 
 said he ; “ will you go and see it ?** 
 
 “ Thank you, not this morning ; my friend is in a 
 great hurry. When will it be ready?** 
 
 “ To-morrow, or next day, at the latest.** 
 
 “ That will do very well. Where can I find you if I 
 want to see you ?** 
 
 “ At the Engineers* office ; my name is Corporal 
 Hardy.** 
 
 “ I thank you.** 
 
 On our way to Hyder Pacha, we met Mr. Bracebridge, 
 talking to Dr.MacHree, the head doctor at that hospital • 
 both of which gentlemen I very much wished to see. 
 Upon being introduced to Mr. Bracebridge, I recognised 
 him as an old acquaintance of my friend, the late Baronet 
 Sir George Chetwynd, of Greedon Hall, Staffordshire, 
 whom he frequently visited. He informed me that Miss 
 Nightingale had heard of my arrival, and that she would 
 he much pleased to see me. 
 
 “ I was going to pay my respects,** said I, “ to 
 Mademoiselle this afternoon after post-time.** 
 
102 
 
 HYDEH PACHA HOSPITAL. 
 
 “ Oil, that will do very well,” he replied : ec she will 
 have great pleasure in seeing you.” 
 
 As the Doctor was on his way to head-quarters, and Mr. 
 Bracebridge was going in another direction, we continued 
 our journey, which, though short, was very fatiguing, the 
 roads being very bad in consequence of a continuance of 
 heavy rain. At last we arrived at the hospital, which, 
 although the smallest, is certainly the most elegant. It 
 was one of the Sultan’s Kiosques, and was divided into 
 three departments — one for the officers, and two for the 
 men. About three hundred and forty men and twenty 
 officers were there at the time, as I was told ; the latter 
 complained very much about their cooking, the inferiority 
 of which was unavoidable, as there was only a very small 
 kitchen, badly built, which smoked all day, and was 
 without ventilation. It was there that the Duke of 
 Cambridge and staff remained during his indisposition ; 
 but I must observe that the Duke had a first-rate 
 culinary artist, who went through the campaign with 
 him. The Duke was only attended by a few gentle- 
 men, and consequently it had not at the time of my 
 visit twenty occupants. Nothing could be done properly 
 for them, till I had built a rough wooden kitchen, and 
 placed a civilian cook under the orders of the doctor 
 and purveyor who had the regulation of the diets. 
 This hospital, though very pretty, was never considered 
 healthy, it being surrounded by gardens and marshy 
 meadows. 
 
 After inspecting the mess-kitchen, we retired, and 
 thence went to the General Hospital. The doctor-in- 
 chief not being there, we were shown round by a staff- 
 doctor. I found the kitchen ^ry dark, and badly built, 
 for such a number of patients ; but the distribution of food 
 and the regulation of the same were on a much better 
 footing than at the Barrack Hospital. On noticing this 
 to the head cook, he gave the credit to Dr. O’Flaherty. 
 Upon being introduced to that gentleman, I recognised 
 him as one of my visitors in Dublin, at the same time 
 as Brigadier- General Lord W. Paulet. I promised to 
 have the kitchen altered as soon as it could possibly 
 
INTRODUCTION TO MISS NIGHTINGALE. 
 
 103 
 
 be done, and started for the Barrack Hospital to visit 
 Miss Nightingale. As Signor Roeo had settled his 
 business, he left me and returned to Pera ; consequently, 
 I entered the great Barrack Hospital alone. The entrance 
 was crowded with officers of rank and medical gentlemen. 
 The High-street, facing the General’s quarters, was 
 literally crammed with soldiers, more or less conscious of 
 the state of warlike affairs. Most of them kept van- 
 dyking from the gin palace to their quarters, their red 
 jackets forming a strange contrast to the quiet dress and 
 solemn air of the Moslem soldiers upon duty. 
 
 After shaking hands with some officers and doctors 
 whom I had the pleasure of knowing in England, I 
 inquired of a sentry for Miss Nightingale’s apartment, 
 which he at once pointed out to me. On my entering 
 the ante-room, a Sceur de Charite, whom I addressed, 
 informed me that somebody was with that lady. She 
 added, “ I am aware that Miss Nightingale wishes to 
 see you, so I will let her know that you are here.” I 
 hoped to have a few minutes to myself in order to take 
 an observation of this sanctuary of benevolence ; but my 
 project was defeated by my being immediately admitted ; 
 and this compels me to trace this picture from memory. 
 
 Upon entering the room, I was saluted by a lady, and 
 not doubting that this was our heroine, “ Madam,” said 
 I, “ allow me to present my humble respects. I presume 
 I have the honour of addressing Miss Nightingale.” 
 
 “ Yes, sir. Monsieur Soyer, I believe ?” 
 
 “ The same. Madam.” 
 
 “ Pray take a seat. I hear you had a rough voyage 
 out.” 
 
 “Very much so, especially from Marseilles to Ajaccio.” 
 
 “ So I heard. Monsieur Soyer.” 
 
 “ I have brought several parcels and letters for you ; 
 among the latter, one from the Duchess of Sutherland.” 
 
 After having perused this epistle, Miss Nightingale 
 remarked : “ I believe her Grace is right ; you will no 
 doubt be able to render great service in the kitchen 
 department.” 
 
 “ Por which I shall need the good-will and assis- 
 
104 
 
 OPERATIONS COMMENCED. 
 
 tance of all the heads of this monster establishment; 
 and I must beg, above all things, that you who have 
 already done so much for the sick and the wounded, 
 will be kind enough to give me the benefit of your valu- 
 able experience.” 
 
 “ I will. Monsieur Soyer ; but first of all, I should 
 advise you to see Lord William Paulet, Dr. Cumming, 
 and the Purveyor-in-Chief, Mr. Milton.” 
 
 “ Many thanks for your kind advice. I had the 
 pleasure of seeing Lord William yesterday, as well as Dr. 
 Cumming. To Mr. Milton I shall pay my respects upon 
 leaving you.” 
 
 “ You had better do so ; for the principal part of your 
 business you will have to transact with those gentlemen.” 
 
 “ A very excellent remark, which I shall not fail to 
 attend to.” 
 
 “ Another gentleman you must see in the purveyor’s 
 department, is Mr. Tucker. You will then be able to 
 commence operations.” 
 
 “ Very true : I shall not think of commencing before 
 I am well acquainted with every one in each depart- 
 ment that has reference to the cooking. I shall submit 
 every sample of diets, with a statement of the quantity 
 and kind of ingredients of which they are composed, for 
 the approval and opinion of the medical authorities ; as I 
 shall have to deal with patients, and not with epicures. 
 
 “ Perfectly right,” said Miss Nightingale. 
 
 “ That no time may be lost, I should very much like 
 this afternoon to visit the kitchens now in use, inspect 
 the stores, and procure a statement of the daily rations 
 allowed to each patient, if I can have one of the inspec- 
 tors to go round with me.” 
 
 “ Certainly you can ; I will send for somebody who 
 will be happy to accompany you.” 
 
 “ Perhaps you would favour us with your company, 
 as I should be most happy to attend to any suggestion 
 you might like to make.” 
 
 “ I will go with you with great pleasure ; but here 
 comes Doctor Macgregor, the under-superintendent, who 
 
VIS1T0RIAL PILGRIMAGE. 
 
 105 
 
 will be our guide. He told me that he had met you 
 before.” 
 
 “ Yes ; we met yesterday at Lord William Paulet’s.” 
 
 “ Doctor,” said Miss Nightingale, “ Monsieur Soyer 
 wishes you to accompany him round the various kitchens 
 and store-rooms.” 
 
 “I will do that with the greatest pleasure; but he 
 had better be introduced to Mr. Milton and to Mr. 
 Tucker. Mr. Milton is out, but Mr. Tucker will do 
 instead.” 
 
 Our visitorial pilgrimage then commenced. We first 
 visited Miss Nightingale’s dietary kitchen, in which 
 I immediately recognised the whole of the little camp 
 batterie de cuisine which my friend Comte told me that 
 the Duke of Cambridge had presented to the hospital. 
 Justice was indeed done to it, for every separate article 
 of which it was composed was in use. Miss Nightin- 
 gale had a civilian cook as well as an assistant. Every- 
 thing appeared in as good order as could be expected, 
 considering what there was to be done. I noticed the 
 very bad quality of the charcoal, which smoked terribly, 
 and was nothing but dust. Of course, this interfered 
 materially with the expedition of the cooking, which 
 is a subject of vital importance in an hospital, where 
 punctuality is' as essential as quality. Addressing 
 the Doctor, I said, “ Suppose you have fifty or a 
 hundred patients under your direction — according to 
 the disease you vary the diet, and according to 
 the state of the patient you vary the hour of his 
 meal.” 
 
 “ Of course we do.” 
 
 “ Then, this defect, simple as it may appear, should be 
 reported and immediately remedied.” 
 
 “The only excuse I can find for the rations and diets 
 not being ready at the time required is entirely owing to 
 the bad quality of the charcoal, which, as regards time, 
 would deceive the best of cooks, and is quite sufficient 
 to upset the best of culinary arrangements. However, I 
 will take note of the various things which strike me 
 
106 
 
 BAD CHA11COAL. 
 
 as being out of order or bad, and tbis will give me a 
 good chance of effecting an immediate improvement/* 
 
 “ You are perfectly right/* said Miss Nightingale. “ I 
 assure you that Dumont, my cook, is always complaining 
 of the charcoal, which, as you see, is so full of dust that 
 it will not burn ; and some days he cannot manage to 
 cook at all with it/* 
 
 “ Well, I will endeavour to remedy this great evil/* 
 
 {( Doctor,** said Miss Nightingale, “ you had better tell 
 Monsieur Soyer to whom he is to apply in this matter/* 
 “ Oh, Mr. Milton or Mr. Tucker will be able to give 
 him the necessary information. We will now visit 
 another.** 
 
 About half-way down the long corridor, we found 
 another extra diet kitchen, managed by soldiers ; but it 
 was far from being in good order — on the contrary, all 
 was in the greatest confusion. The kitchen was full of 
 smoke, and everything was boiling too fast. In conse- 
 quence of the bad quality of the charcoal, a wall of bricks 
 had been raised round each stove, and thus wood and 
 charcoal were used ad libitum , burning the rice-pudding, 
 and over-doing everything. In fact, everything had the 
 disagreeable flavour of being burnt. As I did not wish 
 to alarm them, I merely remarked that the fire was too 
 fierce ; and, on the following morning, I took one of my 
 men with me to teach them how to manage better. 
 
 We then visited several other kitchens, all of which 
 were, more or less, in the same state. To this there was, 
 however, a single exception, to which I must do justice 
 by observing, that, though not quite perfect as a model — 
 being short of cooking utensils — still it was clean, and 
 everything we tasted was far superior in flavour. Nothing 
 was burnt, except a slight catch in the rice-pudding ; but 
 this was a mere trifle, compared with the way the viands 
 were spoilt in the other places. The beef-tea, chicken- 
 broth, &c., were nicely done, although they all wanted 
 seasoning. At my first visit to the various diet kitchens, 
 I tasted the soups made for the patients, which I found 
 quite free from the slightest suspicion of seasoning, and 
 consequently tasteless. I then asked to have a couple of 
 
QUESTION OE SEASONING. 
 
 107 
 
 basins filled with this. To one I added the requisite 
 seasoning, and requested Doctor Gumming to taste of 
 both. The Doctor complied with my request, and could 
 scarcely believe it possible that such an improvement 
 could be effected by so trifling an addition. He then 
 expressed his approval and decided that in future the 
 cook should season the soup, instead of leaving the same 
 to the irregular tastes of the patients. 
 
 “"Well,” said Doctor Macgregor, “this is by the 
 doctor’s order, you may be sure.” 
 
 “ I have not the pleasure of knowing that gentleman, 
 yet, though I admire his kitchen very much, and must 
 admit that he keeps it in good order, I shall certainly 
 tell him when I see him that I do not agree with his 
 method of not seasoning the broths, &c., while in course 
 of preparation. It is very true they ought not to be too 
 highly seasoned ; but it is the province of the cook, as I 
 before said, to season for the patient, and not the patient 
 for the cook. Instead of giving so much salt in the ward, 
 I would allow each patient but little or none at all; 
 because in all cookery it is the combination of good and 
 wholesome ingredients properly blended which constitutes 
 the best of broths or diets ; and this rule holds good for 
 the bill of fare of all nations.” 
 
 “ This seems logical enough,” said the Doctor ; “nor do 
 I approve of the quantity of salt and pepper given in the 
 wards.” 
 
 “ But, Doctor, there is another evil ; some people are 
 more partial to salt than others, and, only a few minutes 
 ago, I saw a patient begging his neighbour to give him 
 a portion of his share.” 
 
 “ I am aware they do that. Monsieur Soyer.” 
 
 “ Be kind enough to favour me with the name of the 
 doctor.” 
 
 “ His name is Dr. Taylor ; he will be glad to see you. 
 Monsieur Soyer,” said Miss Nightingale, smiling. “ I 
 can assure you he is a great cook, and manages his own 
 kitchen. He comes down here two or three times every 
 day. He is attending a board this morning, or he would 
 certainly have been here.” 
 
108 
 
 A SPLENDID KITCHEN. 
 
 “ If that is the case, we shall have no difficulty in 
 understanding each other. I will do myself the pleasure 
 of calling upon him.” 
 
 “ You will he sure to find him in his office at nine 
 o’clock to-morrow/’ said Dr. Macgregor. We then 
 crossed the yard to the general kitchen, as Miss Nightin- 
 gale called it. Upon entering it, I found, to my surprise, 
 a superb kitchen, built, I believe, by the Turks, and 
 fitted up with twenty copper boilers, set in white marble, 
 holding about fifty gallons each. About sixteen soldier 
 cooks were employed cleaning the boilers, to make the 
 tea, as the men’s dinners had just been served. 
 
 “ This is a magnificent kitchen,” I observed to Miss 
 Nightingale. “ I was not aware there was anything of 
 the kind here.” 
 
 “ So it is, Monsieur Soyer ; but see how badly every- 
 thing is managed.” 
 
 “ W ell, this can be remedied.” 
 
 On going to the top of the marble steps, about eight 
 in number, I perceived that every boiler was made of 
 yellow copper, and screwed to its marble bed. I imme- 
 diately inquired about the tinning, as I perceived the 
 boilers were much in want of this. Copper is, as I have 
 before remarked, the worst metal which could possibly 
 be employed for hospital uses. I took notes of all, and 
 having inquired of the men how they cooked the patients’ 
 dinners, I told them to go on as usual, and that I would 
 be with them at seven the next morning, to put them in 
 the right way. As it was getting late, I was about 
 taking my departure, when Miss Nightingale informed 
 me that there was a similar kitchen on the other side of 
 the yard, and advised me to go and see it. 
 
 “ Like this one, do you say, Mademoiselle ?” 
 
 “ Yes, exactly like it.” 
 
 “ You astonish me. Of course I will go directly. I 
 shall, however, be sorry to trouble you to come so far.” 
 
 “ Oh, no trouble at all. Monsieur Soyer. I am much 
 interested in any improvement or amelioration which 
 may be introduced in so important a department.” 
 
 We did, indeed, find just such another kitchen as the 
 
OLD FRIENDS. 
 
 109 
 
 last, partitioned off in the centre. “ This one / 3 said I, 
 will be large enough for all that we require.” 
 
 “You don’t say so/’ observed Dr. Macgregor. 
 
 “ Quite large enough, I can assure you ; the only in- 
 convenience is its great distance from the building. 
 However, I shall try and manage somehow. This 
 kitchen is cleaner than the other, and the head man 
 appears more intelligent ; still there is a great deal to be 
 done, in order to set the whole to rights.” 
 
 “ I was certain you would say so,” Miss Nightingale 
 observed. 
 
 “ Oh, but I am far from despairing. Indeed, I feel 
 confident that I shall succeed. All I require is, that 
 they will go on just as if I had not arrived. I shall come 
 to-morrow at seven o’clock, and watch their proceedings, 
 without removing any one from his post, and have no 
 doubt I shall be able to introduce a much better system.” 
 After we had examined this kitchen, Miss Nightingale 
 prepared to leave us. I promised to call upon her the 
 following day, to go round the wards, and see the dinners 
 served. 
 
 As the lady was leaving, I said, “ I have an appoint- 
 ment with Lord W. Paulet at eleven, and one with Dr. 
 Cummin g at half-past — therefore I will afterwards do 
 myself the honour of fetching you. Mademoiselle.” 
 
 “ That will be the best plan ; and probably his lord- 
 ship will come with us.” 
 
 With this the lady withdrew. Dr. Macgregor and 
 myself next went to the purveyor’s department, to see 
 Mr. Tucker, whom I found to be an old London friend of 
 mine, of ten years’ standing. “You are about the last 
 person, friend Soyer,” said Mr. Tucker, “ whom I should 
 have expected to see here.” 
 
 “ I am indeed in luck, as I hear you are the gentleman 
 from whom I shall probably require the most assistance.” 
 “ Anything you may require, M. Soyer, I have orders 
 to let you have; and you may rest assured that Mr. 
 Milton and myself will assist you to the utmost of our 
 power. There is another person here who knows you — 
 Mr. Bailey, the storekeeper.” 
 
110 
 
 LAST NIGHT AT PERA. 
 
 “ These are indeed good tidings. To-morrow, Mr. 
 Tucker, I shall be here early, to see how they manage 
 the cooking. Perhaps you will be kind enough to allow 
 some of your men to show me the various store-rooms 
 and the fresh provisions.” 
 
 “ I will make that all right, you may depend upon it.” 
 As my house was not quite ready I crossed over to 
 Pera, and in the evening went to the English Embassy, 
 to settle some business with Signor Eoeo Vido, and to 
 ascertain whether Lady Stratford had fixed the day for 
 our visit to the hospital at Kululee. This was to be my 
 last night in Pera, as my house at Scutari was to be 
 ready the following day. 
 
 « 
 
Ill 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 A TOUR ROUND THE KITCHENS. 
 
 Inspection of stores — Methods pursued — Interview with Lord W. 
 Paulet — Scene in a kitchen — Terrible confusion — Only one plate 
 — Underdone and overdone — Receipt for nourishing fare — Mr. 
 Milton — Cordial reception — Plans for a better system — Dr. Taylor 
 — Conversation upon cookery — Importance of culinary science in 
 the medical department — A pleasant night — Value of a great- 
 coat — Operations commenced — Question of copper vessels — 
 Curious method of marking the lots — A decent trick — Wilful 
 waste — Experiments upon the extra diets — My first-class inter- 
 preter. 
 
 At half- past six the next morning I was in the 
 kitchen. The soldiers were at that hour making the 
 coffee and tea for breakfast. I went with the serjeant 
 on duty to inspect the quality of the meat, the quan- 
 tity allowed, and the place of distribution. I found 
 the meat of a very inferior quality, the method of dis- 
 tribution too complicated. When the weight of the 
 quantity allowed was explained to me I found it correct. 
 I was at first much puzzled at finding that some patients 
 upon full diet received three quarters of a pound, some 
 half a pound, and some a quarter of a pound of meat, 
 accordingly as they were placed upon full, half, or 
 quarter diet allowance — a system unavoidable in a 
 hospital, but which would deceive the best cook. On 
 some days, in providing for a hundred patients, this 
 would make a difference of from ten to twenty pounds 
 of meat, according to the number of half or quarter diets. 
 Yet the same quantity of soup would nevertheless be 
 required. 
 
 I made a note of this, and next perceived that every 
 mess took their meat separately. Some messes numbered 
 fifteen, twenty, or even thirty. The meat was spitted 
 
112 
 
 HOW THINGS WERE DONE. 
 
 upon a rough piece of wood about two feet long, and 
 then tied as tight as possible with a strong cord. 
 Although this was a very bad method, I did not choose 
 to interfere, as it was important for me to show them 
 the evil effects of their system, and ensure a reform 
 by pointing out a better. We then went to the 
 store-rooms, and looked over what the contractor called 
 the mixed vegetables, though they were principally of 
 one kind, and half of these unfit for use. After having 
 seen the rations weighed, I sent orders to the cooks not 
 to commence operations until I arrived. We examined 
 all kinds of preserved meats, soups, sweetmeats, &c. 
 I next went to see the poultry, which I found of very 
 inferior quality, consisting principally of old fowls, badly 
 plucked and drawn. The gizzards, heads, and feet, which 
 make such good broth, were thrown away. Mr. Bailey, 
 whom I had not yet seen, then entered. When I had 
 explained what we had already done, and the plan it would 
 be most advisable to adopt for the future, he promised to 
 bring the contractor, that we might talk the matter 
 over. I examined the bread, which was very good indeed. 
 
 Mr. Bailey accompanied me to the various kitchens, 
 where I had ordered the men to proceed as usual, and 
 the same in the extra diet kitchen. During our progress 
 I had the pleasure of meeting and being introduced to 
 most of the medical gentlemen as they were visiting the 
 patients in the corridors and wards. Having been 
 informed that Mr. Milton, the purveyor in chief, had 
 arrived, I called at his office, but unfortunately he had 
 just gone to some storeroom — no one could tell which. 
 I left my compliments, and a message to say that I 
 should call again. I went to see Dr. Cumming, and 
 report progress, and engaged to let him taste some of 
 my cooking the following day. My next visit was to 
 Lord W. Paulet, whom I found surrounded by military 
 gentlemen of all ranks. He called me in, and, in a 
 most good-natured manner, introduced me to his visitors, 
 saying, “ Now M. Soyer is come, I fear he will feed 
 the sick soldiers so well, that they will be sorry to recover 
 and leave the hospital.” 
 
BILLINGSGATE OUTDONE. 
 
 113 
 
 “ Should such prove to be the case, it will be the best 
 of all bad complaints.” 
 
 Some of the company inquired whether I was going 
 to the Crimea. 
 
 “I must first make my debut here,” was my reply, 
 “ and then we shall see.” 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, what can I do for you ?” 
 
 “Your lordship can do what I require in two minutes. 
 Will you be kind enough to send me a carpenter or two, 
 and a bricklayer, to do some little matters I wish to have 
 attended to ?” 
 
 “Certainly; I will drop a line to Captain Gordon, 
 the chief engineer, to that effect. His office is over the 
 way — you had better go and see him.” 
 
 “ Captain Gordon,” said a soldier, who brought some 
 letters, “ is gone to Pera.” 
 
 “ I am happy to be able to inform your lordship that 
 I am progressing very fast, and that every one is very 
 obliging to me.” 
 
 “ I am glad to hear that. Monsieur Soyer.” 
 
 “ I suppose you could not spare time about one o’clock, 
 to go round and see the meals served out ?” 
 
 “ I will try ; but I fear I shall hardly have leisure. 
 See what I have to do,” he continued, pointing to a pile 
 of letters which the soldier had just brought in; “as 
 Doctor Macgregor is going round with you, he will 
 give me an account of everything.” 
 
 It was then noon, and about dinner-time. So I re- 
 turned to the kitchen, where all was in the greatest 
 confusion. Such a noise I never heard before. They 
 were waiting for their soup and meat, and using coarse 
 language, without making the least progress in the dis- 
 tribution. The market at old Billingsgate, during the 
 first morning sale, was nothing compared to this military 
 row. Each man had two tin cans for the soup. They 
 kept running about and knocking against each other, 
 in most admirable disorder. Such confusion, thought I, 
 is enough to kill a dozen patients daily. As a natural 
 consequence, several must go without anything; as, 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 BAD COOKS. 
 
 owing to the confusion, some of the orderly waiters get 
 more and others less than their allowance. Any attempt 
 to alter this at the time, would have been as wise as 
 endeavouring to stop the current of the Bosphorus. As 
 I did not wish to lose the chance of seeing the rations 
 served out in the wards, I went for Dr. Macgregor, 
 and we called for Mr. Milton — but the latter had not 
 returned. I then fetched Miss Nightingale, and we 
 went through the wards. The process of serving out 
 the rations, though not quite such a noisy scene as 
 that I had before witnessed, was far from being perfect. 
 In the first place, the patients were allowed to eat 
 the meat before the soup. As I was confident that 
 this could not be by the doctor’s order, I asked the 
 reason. The reply was, “we have only one plate.” 
 (What they called a plate, was a round and deep tin 
 dish, which held a pound of meat and a pint of soup.) 
 I therefore recommended them to cut the meat as usual 
 into small pieces, and pour the pint of boiling soup over 
 it. This method had the advantage of keeping the meat 
 hot. 
 
 “ It will enable the patients,” I said, “ to eat both 
 the soup and meat warm, instead of cold — the daily 
 practice, in consequence of the slow process of carving.” 
 
 “Very true,” said Dr. Macgregor. “Nay, more, 
 the soup will comfort and dispose the stomach for the 
 better digestion of the meat and potatoes. When the 
 men are very hungry, they will often swallow their food 
 without properly masticating it, and the meat is also pro- 
 bably tough.” 
 
 We then tasted both the soup and meat. The former 
 was thin and without seasoning; the latter, mutton, 
 tough and tasteless. The potatoes were watery. All 
 these defects I promised to rectify the next day. We 
 proceeded to a ward where they complained bitterly that 
 the meat was never done ; in fact, it was quite raw, and 
 then of course the cook was blamed. 
 
 “Now,” said I to Miss Nightingale, “I will wager 
 anything that we shall find some parts very well done. 
 
MY PLAN OP PROCEEDING. 
 
 115 
 
 and some, no doubt, too much done, though it is all 
 cooked in the same caldron .” 
 
 “ How do you account for that. Monsieur Soyer ? is it 
 owing to the bad quality of the meat ?” 
 
 “ Not at all ; that may come from the same sheep, and 
 yet vary.” 
 
 At another mess, the meat was well done ; a small 
 piece at the end only being over-cooked. 
 
 “ I will explain this to you, madam,” said I. “1 re- 
 marked this morning that the man tied all the joints 
 together very tight, after having put them upon a 
 c skewer/ as he calls it, almost as large as a wooden leg. 
 The consequence is, that when the meat is thrown into 
 boiling water, it is not properly done ; the meat swells, 
 and it is impossible for the heat or the water even to 
 get at it.” 
 
 “ Ah, I noticed that several of the men did exactly as 
 you say this morning,” said Miss Nightingale. “ The 
 parts which are well done were placed loose upon the 
 stick ; and this explains the mystery — but I shall alter 
 that to-morrow.” 
 
 Having afterwards inspected several extra-diet kitchens, 
 and tasted various things, I perceived what I could 
 accomplish, both as regarded convalescents and extra 
 diets. Miss Nightingale having again offered to render 
 any assistance in her power, left us ; as she had a great 
 deal to attend to. I retraced my steps to Dr. Gum- 
 mi ng’s, and stated my opinion of the present system of 
 cooking; and explained what I proposed doing, of all of 
 ■which he approved highly. I then returned to the 
 kitchen, and sent a requisition for six rations of every- 
 thing allowed for making the soup. I proceeded 
 thus : — 
 
 To eight pints of water I put four pounds of meat, 
 a quarter of a pound of barley, a little salt and pepper, and 
 the allowance of vegetables, and in about an hour I pro- 
 duced a very good soup — some of which I sent to several 
 doctors. They tasted and praised it highly, as being 
 very nourishing and palatable. I then carried some to 
 
 i 2 
 
116 
 
 MEETING WITH MU. MILTON. 
 
 Dr. Gumming, who approved of its composition; but 
 expressed his opinion that it would probably be too 
 expensive. I then informed him I had made it with 
 the ration allowance, taking the meat at half-diet scale. 
 He was much pleased with the meat, which he pro- 
 nounced highly palatable, and thought that the season- 
 ing should be put in with the other ingredients. I 
 explained that I could still improve it by the simple 
 addition of a small quantity of sugar and flour. 
 
 “ The purveyor will not, I am certain, refuse that,” 
 said he. 
 
 “ Oh, I am aware of that ; but I wish to manage it 
 without increasing the expense. I must accomplish that, 
 if possible.” Miss Nightingale and Dr. Macgregor, to 
 both of whom I sent some, praised it even more than 
 the others had done, particularly the meat, which they 
 stated to be of a very excellent flavour, and they had the 
 opportunity of tasting the former. Mr. Milton came in, 
 and though I had not had the pleasure of seeing that 
 gentleman, from the description I had heard of him, and 
 his pleasing manner, I knew I was not mistaken in 
 * saying — “ Mr. Milton, allow me to have the honour of 
 tendering my best compliments and thanks for your 
 prompt visit.” 
 
 “No person could be more welcome here than you 
 are, Monsieur Soyer. I only regret I was not in my 
 office when you called. I should have been happy to 
 have accompanied you round the wards. Your very 
 just remarks have been repeated to me and the plan you 
 mean to adopt explained, but I fear you will meet with 
 so many difficulties that you will get tired before you 
 have achieved much good.” 
 
 “Not at all,” I replied; “you will see a great change 
 by to-morrow, which must be attributed chiefly to the 
 politeness and cordial assistance I have met with from 
 the members of every department — especially your own 
 —which to me is the most important.” 
 
 “ I have given orders that everything you may re- 
 quire is to be placed at your disposal, if in store; and 
 
TWO KINDS OF SOUP. 
 
 117 
 
 any alteration or suggestion which is likely to be bene- 
 ficial will be immediately attended to. You have only 
 to ask for anything you need in the way of cooking 
 utensils, and it shall, if possible, be procured.” 
 
 “My great object and delight will be to effect a 
 change with the daily allowance.” 
 
 “ That would certainly be as well ; but I fancy it 
 cannot be done. The provisions here are of a quality 
 very inferior to what we get in London.” 
 
 “ You are quite right, if they are all like those I saw 
 this morning. Favour me by tasting these two soups. 
 Julien ! please to give Mr. Milton two small basins of 
 soup — one of mine, and one of that made at the hospital.” 
 On tasting mine first he pronounced it very good and 
 palatable, and of an excellent flavour. The other, al- 
 though made with exactly the same materials, he could 
 hardly swallow. It had no seasoning, had a blackish 
 appearance, and was quite tasteless. 
 
 “ There is no comparison,” said Mr. Milton. 
 
 “All the soup will in future be like the sample I 
 have made, and I can greatly improve it by the addi- 
 tion of a few pounds of brown sugar and a little flour 
 extra.” 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, I beg you will not regard such 
 trivial expenses, at any rate for the present; what is 
 required you shall have.” 
 
 “ I see the fresh vegetables are very bad — as you have 
 a quantity of preserved ones, I shall mix them.” 
 
 “ In future we must try and get better meat, poultry, 
 and eggs; and, above all, charcoal. I am aware you 
 have justly complained of them. Have you seen our 
 bread ?” 
 
 “ Yes, I have, and very good it is too.” 
 
 “ That is really all we can manage to my satisfaction. 
 As regards the meat and poultry, I will send you the 
 contractor ; but the charcoal is in the commissariat de- 
 partment. I shall write an official letter respecting it. 
 I see,” he continued, looking at some, “it is all dust, 
 and seems quite wet.” 
 
118 
 
 THE SCIENCE OE COOKERY. 
 
 “ Pray send off a letter ; and if you will give me the 
 name of the gentleman who is at the head of that de- 
 partment^ I shall be happy to make his acquaintance ; and 
 beg* of him not to allow any delay, as I consider this the 
 most important matter of all.” 
 
 I repeated the reason for saying this which I have 
 before mentioned. 
 
 After listening attentively to my remarks, Mr. Mil- 
 ton said : — 
 
 “ You may well call it the most important, and the 
 sooner it is altered the better.” 
 
 We parted. I then told the soldier cooks to have the 
 boilers thoroughly cleaned, and everything in from the 
 stores by eight o’clock the next morning, as I intended 
 making the soup myself. I left J ulien, my head man, 
 with them to superintend matters. 
 
 Having called upon Doctor Taylor, I had a long 
 conversation with, him upon cookery. In the course of 
 this he said, — 
 
 “On finding that the cooking was so badly done, 
 I took upon myself, not only to superintend the men, 
 but also to cook and teach them ; and I must say I 
 found them very willing. How could I expect them 
 to know anything about it ? they had never been taught 
 to do it.” 
 
 “ True, Doctor ; and, as soon as they begin to know a 
 little about it, they are recalled to their regiments, and 
 replaced by new-comers as ignorant as they were them- 
 selves at first.” 
 
 “ Exactly; and I tell you what, Monsieur Soyer, though 
 we may be very good doctors, and possess a thorough know- 
 ledge of medical science, we still need the aid of culinary 
 science ; for the one without the other will produce but 
 very unsatisfactory results. Since I have turned my 
 attention to it, I am more and more fortified in the 
 opinion which I have expressed before several medical 
 boards, that a doctor, to be well qualified, should have 
 some knowledge of the art of cookery, and this he ought 
 to acquire in the first stage of his medical education.” 
 
AN UN COMFORTABLE NIGHT. 
 
 119 
 
 “ Indeed, Doctor, it is not with the view of elevating 
 my profession, to which I have now devoted my attention 
 for more than twenty-seven years, that I say I am per- 
 suaded that this science has been too lightly treated. In 
 corroboration of your just remark, I have, as you will 
 find, already stated in my various works upon cookery, 
 that to make a good cook it is of paramount importance 
 that a man should possess some chemical as well as 
 medical knowledge.” 
 
 “ I agree with you. Monsieur Soyer,” said he. 
 
 “As soon as my kitchen is ready, Doctor, I hope 
 you will favour me with a visit.” 
 
 “With much pleasure. Let me know when it is 
 finished.” 
 
 To my great regret, I was obliged to see about return- 
 ing to Pera, some delay having taken place in the com- 
 pletion of my house. On reaching the landing-place not a 
 caique was to be had, the weather was so bad they could 
 not cross. A friend offered me shelter for that night at a 
 small restaurant kept by a Greek called Demetri. There 
 were seventeen of us lying on straw sofas, with the 
 privilege of covering ourselves with our great coats, if 
 fortunate enough to possess one. Pooms were at a pre- 
 mium in Scutari. It was also necessary for anybody 
 who wished to have the benefit of his great-coat to keep 
 awake all night ; for no sooner did you begin to doze 
 than some of your sleeping partners, who happened to be 
 wide awake, endeavoured to appropriate the coveted 
 garment to their use ; and the weather being very chilly, 
 this proved anything but pleasant. Unfortunately, after 
 passing an uncomfortable night, 1 did not feel much 
 refreshed, and was almost unfit to undertake the difficult 
 task I had before me. However, I was up at six, and in 
 the kitchen by seven. None of my orders had been 
 attended to. My own people were not there as they 
 ought to have been ; and the men told me they could 
 not get the rations till ten o’clock, that being the usual 
 time for issuing them. 
 
 “Beally,” said I; “and pray who told you so?” 
 
120 
 
 KITCHEN UTENSILS. 
 
 “ The serjeant and some of the orderlies/* was the 
 reply. 
 
 "We shall see all about that; come with me.** 
 
 The truth is, I did find it very difficult to get any- 
 thing ; but, in less than half-an-hour after I had been to 
 the purveyors head-quarters my new regiment began to 
 manoeuvre admirably under my command. By eight 
 o’clock everything was ready for the cooking, except my 
 cooks, who had been sleeping in a store-room upon some 
 straw, and had a regular fray with the allied rats. These 
 animals, it appears, had come to welcome them to 
 Scutari. 
 
 Upon inspecting the boilers, my first fear was realized 
 — there was nothing but copper — all the tinning had worn 
 away. And very difficult was it to ascertain this fact, 
 these immense and deep caldrons being securely screwed 
 to the marble basement, and extremely difficult, not only 
 to remove, but also to tin when removed. I consider it 
 most advisable that all large establishments should have 
 their cooking apparatus made of malleable iron, which is 
 extremely clean, is much cheaper, and does not require 
 tinning : the lid may be made of copper for appearance* 
 sake, but not so the boiler. The kitchen battery of the 
 wealthy alone should be copper, as they can afford to 
 employ professional persons for the preparation of their 
 diet, who never would attempt using them when coppery. 
 (For my important visit to the Consumptive Hospital at 
 Brompton, see Addenda.) 
 
 That day I was obliged to use them. Having put the 
 proper quantity of water into each copper, with the meat, 
 barley, vegetables, and salt and pepper, we lighted the 
 fires ; and after allowing the ingredients to simmer for 
 two hours and a half, an excellent soup was made ; I 
 only adding a little sugar and flour to finish it. 
 
 The receipt for this excellent soup, so highly approved 
 of and immediately adopted by the medical men, will be 
 found in my Hospital Diets, with a scale of proportions 
 from ten to a hundred. 
 
 The meat was so poor that there was no fat to skim 
 
USE OF SNUFFERS IN COOKING. 
 
 121 
 
 off the soup. It was therefore served out at once, as 
 described in the receipt. Several doctors went round 
 with me, and asked the men how they liked it. They 
 were all highly delighted with it, and praised it very 
 much. I also took care that the rations of meat should 
 not be tied together on the skewer. 
 
 The orderlies were now ordered not to tie their rations of 
 meat so tight. Upon inspection I found that they had 
 a most curious method of marking their different lots. 
 Some used a piece of red cloth cut from an old jacket ; 
 others half a dozen old buttons tied together ; old knives, 
 forks, scissors, &c., but one in particular had hit upon an 
 idea which could not fail to meet with our entire approval. 
 The discovery of this brilliant idea was greeted with 
 shouts of laughter from Miss Nightingale, the doctors, 
 and myself. It consisted in tying a pair of old snuffers 
 to the lot. 
 
 All this rubbish was daily boiled with the meat, but 
 probably required more cooking. On telling the man 
 with the snuffers that it was a very dirty trick to put 
 such things in the soup, the reply was — “ How can 
 it be dirty, sir? sure they have been boiling this last 
 month.” 
 
 When all the dinners had been served out, I perceived 
 a large copper half full of rich broth with about three 
 inches of fat upon it. I inquired what they did with 
 this? 
 
 “ Throw it away, sir.” 
 
 “ Throw it away ?” we all exclaimed. 
 
 “ Yes, sir ; it's the water in which the fresh beef has 
 been cooked.” 
 
 “ Do you call that water ? I call it strong broth. 
 Why don't you make soup of it ?” 
 
 "We orderlies don't like soup, sir.” 
 
 “ Then you really do throw it away ?” 
 
 “ Yes, sir ; it is good for nothing.” 
 
 I took a ladle and removed a large basinful of beautiful 
 fat, which, when cold, was better for cooking purposes 
 than the rank butter procured from Constantinople at 
 
122 
 
 EXPERIMENTS UPON THE EXTRA DIETS. 
 
 from ten to fifteen piastres per pound. The next day I 
 showed the men how to make a most delicious soup with 
 what they had before so foolishly thrown away. This 
 method they were henceforward very glad to adopt. Not 
 less than seventy pounds of beef had been daily boiled 
 in this manner, and without salt. It would hardly be 
 credited, but for its truth I can appeal to Miss Nightin- 
 gale and others who were present. 
 
 Nothing was needed but a sharp look-out after the 
 cooks in order to ensure complete success. The day after 
 I had the coppers tinned. The next thing was to have 
 a charcoal stove built, an oven, a store-room, and a larder 
 partitioned off ; and a kitchen dresser and chopping-block 
 made. Through the kindness of the Chief Engineer, 
 Captain Gordon, these things were accomplished in a few 
 days, and at a trifling expense. If not a very magnifi- 
 cent, it was, as will be seen, a very spacious and handy 
 kitchen. 
 
 In a few days I made experiments in small quantities 
 upon all the various extra diets, such as chicken, mutton, 
 and veal broth, the cooking of fowls, beef and mutton 
 tea, &c. I did not forget the beverages, such as rice 
 water, lemonades, arrow-root, panada ditto, barley ’water, 
 sago jelly, &c.; rice pudding, sago, bread, vermicelli 
 and macaroni ditto. The receipts will be found in the 
 Addenda, under the head of “ Hospital Diets.” 
 
 A gentleman, Mr. Black, who was a first-class inter- 
 preter, was then introduced to me by the Purveyor-in- 
 Chief, and appointed to assist me in any way I might 
 require his aid. He was highly recommended by Miss 
 Nightingale, and a number of first-class doctors, as well 
 as by Lord William Paulet. It is with gratitude that 
 I acknowledge the great assistance I received from that 
 gentleman during his stay with me, and the energy 
 he displayed in procuring everything I required. He 
 spoke French fluently, also the Turkish, Greek, and 
 Armenian languages. This rendered him invaluable to 
 me, as I was obliged to employ people speaking those 
 different languages in my numerous kitchens. And what 
 
THE MAID OF ATHENS 5 HUSBAND. 
 
 123 
 
 was more remarkable stilly he was the husband of the 
 celebrated Maid of Athens, whose companjr I had the 
 pleasure of enjoying several times; and although this 
 interesting personage is now in her tenth lustre, some 
 remains of the eulogy of the great Byron seem still 
 engraved on the physiognomy of the once celebrated 
 Greek beauty; and she informed me that when Lord 
 Byron wrote his poem on her, she was but ten years of 
 age, he at the time residing opposite the house of her 
 v parents at Athens, 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 FIRST OPERATIONS. 
 
 Plan of proceeding — Inconveniences — Too many cooks spoil the 
 broth — Supplementary scale — How to make tea — The Scutari 
 Teapot — Soyer House — Kululee Hospital — Beautiful view of 
 the city of Constantine and the Bosphorus — Lady Stratford de 
 Bedcliife’s arrival — Bad cookery — General and Riding-school 
 Hospitals — Miss Stanley — Hit upon an entirely new plan — Tem- 
 porary indisposition — Depression of spirits — Happy recovery — 
 Opening day — Grand success — Lord W. Paulet’s letter — Take 
 one wing of the hospital — The old system — Dissatisfaction of the 
 patients. 
 
 In a short time, and without much trouble, I initiated 
 the soldier cooks into my method, and taught the serjeant 
 to see it properly executed. I shall here describe the 
 process fully, as it will he generally useful for hospitals 
 or public institutions. In the first place I drew up two 
 receipts — the one by weight and the other by measure, 
 the former for beef and the latter for mutton soups. 
 Mutton was the principal meat used for patients in a state 
 of convalescence. These receipts I had carefully copied 
 and hung up in the kitchen, at the same time supplying 
 the cooks with weights and scales. I also taught them 
 how to stew the meat well, and to manage the fires so 
 as to prevent over-boiling or burning, as well as to 
 economize the fuel. It was no longer a matter of much 
 difficulty. Every soldier had become a cook ; and if in 
 case of any of them being removed to their regiments, 
 one of the initiated, under the direction of the above- 
 mentioned serjeant, who was not changed, soon made a 
 new recruit capable of cooking for any number. So 
 simple was this plan, that it was as easy to cook for 
 
SUPPLEMENTARY SCALE. 
 
 125 
 
 thousands as it had before been for hundreds, and to do 
 it to perfection.* 
 
 Although this was as perfect as possible, a great 
 difficulty still remained, as the number varied daily, 
 some days increasing, others decreasing; and as the 
 whole was cooked by messes, the same caldron was 
 required to cook for two hundred and fifty persons 
 one day, and perhaps for one hundred and seventy the 
 next. This caused great confusion and delay, as 
 well as continual quarrelling, among the cooks and 
 orderlies, the latter complaining of not getting their 
 full share ; and if this happened, it was a matter of vital 
 importance to the patient, who was thus deprived of the 
 proper quantity of sustenance ordered by the medical 
 man. In fact, it led to many very serious results. I there- 
 fore settled that all the caldrons should be filled every 
 day; and as each boiler would cook for one hundred and 
 fifty, in one only was it necessary that the quantity 
 should vary. As it was most probable that this one 
 would vary daily, I made a supplementary scale for it, 
 from five diets to one hundred, leaving only a few 
 pounds to be guessed. If any mistake occurred, it could 
 be of no material consequence. I also had tinned iron 
 skewers made, with numbers to each, to prevent the meat 
 being mixed in the boilers, as expedition, cleanliness, and 
 proportion should be the motto of all such establishments. 
 This plan was followed to the last. 
 
 As all the boilers had been well tinned, I showed the 
 men how to make tea on a large scale. Their plan was to 
 tie the tea in a piece of cloth, and throw it into the boiling 
 
 * I earnestly recommend the adoption of this plan in every public 
 institution, civil or military. For example, put in the caldron, 
 which we will suppose holds fifty gallons, so much water, so 
 many pounds of meat, vegetables, salt, pepper, and sugar ; add the 
 barley, light the fire ; stir now and then with a long wooden spaddle 
 to prevent the barley sticking at the bottom of the caldron ; when 
 boiling, reduce the fire. Simmer gently two and a half hours, if mutton 
 is used ; if beef, three hours. Never skim it, only take the fat off, if 
 any, which use for other purposes, or instead of butter (see Hospital 
 receipt in Addenda). If two or more boilers are required, the 
 quantities given in the scale only need increasing. 
 
126 
 
 THE SCUTARI TEAPOT. 
 
 water. In a few minutes the cloth had shrunk so much, 
 that the aroma of the tea, instead of being* diffused, was 
 retained in the centre, the inside of the bag being scarcely 
 soaked. This I proposed to remedy by having fine nets 
 made for the purpose. Miss Nightingale immediately 
 had this done, and they were a great improvement. 
 This, after all, was not quite satisfactory, as the tea had 
 to be made in the same boilers as the soup and meat. 
 The coppers were fixtures, and of such large dimensions, 
 that it was almost impossible to clean them properly. I 
 therefore invented my Scutari Teapot, with its valuable 
 and economical improvement upon the old system, the 
 model of which is given at the end of the book. (See 
 Addenda.) 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF TEAPOT. 
 
 I had a large kettle made, holding eight quarts, and 
 put a coffee filter to it. I then placed the rations of 
 tea for about twenty men in the filter, poured in the 
 boiling water, and, to my astonishment, made about one- 
 fourth more tea, perfectly clear, and without the least 
 sediment. Four of these kettles made enough tea for all 
 the hospital, and this at once induced me to order some 
 upon a smaller scale for the various wards, where at 
 night it is often of the greatest importance that tea 
 should be prepared quickly, in large quantities. I cannot 
 too strongly recommend it to large families, institutions, 
 and other establishments, for its economy of time, and a 
 saving of at least twenty-five per cent, upon the quantity 
 of tea required. I tried it in Miss Nightingale^ room at 
 Scutari, before several persons ; and the Reverend Mr. 
 Blackwood, the chaplain, persuaded me to bring them 
 out for the benefit of the poorer classes, as much for its 
 cleanliness as its economy. This, reader, I claim more as 
 a happy thought than an invention ; but I always had an 
 idea that tea should be suspended in the water, instead 
 of being allowed to fall to the bottom, as is generally 
 the case. Coffee may be made in these vessels, as the 
 construction is the same as that of a coffee-pot. 
 
 By this time my kiosque, or, as it was afterwards 
 
SOYER HOUSE READY. 
 
 127 
 
 named, Soyer House, was ready. It was situated in 
 Cambridge-street, near the Scutari Grand Champ des 
 Morts. Thanks to this, my daily trip across the Bos- 
 phorus was at an end, and as the March winds had a 
 great influence upon its current, I preferred terra firma, 
 to rolling about in its whimsical stream of daily pearls, 
 evening diamonds, and shoals of immense porpoises, 
 which towards sunset commence to accompany you with 
 their nautical summersaults. These at first terrified the 
 uninitiated, who could not help fearing the sudden appear- 
 ance of an unexpected passenger on board the caique. 
 
 The time having been fixed by Lady Stratford de Red- 
 cliffe for our visit to Kululee, in company with a doctor 
 from that hospital I rode over there. It is about five 
 miles from Scutari, along the edge of the Bosphorus ; 
 and from an ancient Jewish cemetery on the top of one 
 of the hills the beauty of the panorama is such as to 
 defy description. My opinion is, that such another 
 view does not exist in any other spot under the 
 canopy of heaven. Under its inspiration I entirely 
 forgot the annoyance I had endured in that labyrinth 
 of ruin and filth. From this spot the metropolis of 
 Constantine, backed by a sky of fire, presented so sublime 
 and picturesque an appearance, that in an enchanted 
 dream alone could one hope to realize the effect of the 
 mirage. It embraced the city and the whole length of 
 the Bosphorus, down to the entrance of the Black Sea. 
 Leaving this beautiful landscape, we passed through 
 several dull, though very pretty villages, and shortly 
 after arrived at the hospital and barrack of Kululee. 
 It is surrounded by kiosques and country seats. The 
 country appears very rich and fertile, but owing to the 
 indolence of the inhabitants, “ which may be adopted as a 
 proverb/* produces little. Although Nature has done 
 so much for the Moslem race, she seems also to have 
 deprived them of the faculty of exertion, and conse- 
 quently of doing anything for themselves. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival we saw, through the golden 
 rays of a dazzling sunlight, several caiques gaily dancing 
 on the turbulent waves of the Bosphorus. They darted 
 
128 
 
 OUR VISIT TO KULULEE. 
 
 swiftly towards us ; the caidjees wore white jackets with 
 flowing* sleeves. In a few minutes Lady Stratford landed, 
 attended by several of her fair companions. “ Have you 
 been over the hospital, Monsieur Soyer?” said Lady 
 Stratford, on landing. 
 
 “No, I have not, my lad y.” 
 
 “ I am glad of that, as I wish to explain everything 
 to you respecting the various kitchen departments 
 myself. You must know, Monsieur Soyer, that we have 
 three separate hospitals here. Although they are under 
 the direction of one doctor, they form three distinct 
 establishments. W e will now visit the Barrack Hospital, 
 as we are so close to it, and then the other two.” 
 
 Several remarks were made upon the delightful situation 
 of Kululee. Lady Stratford in the meantime sent Signor 
 Boco to apprise Dr. Humfries of our arrival. We com- 
 menced visiting the store-rooms, provisions, kitchens, 
 larders, &c. I found in the extra-diet kitchen several very 
 good and well-prepared diets ; and amongst these some 
 very nice cal ves’ -foot jelly, and excellent rice pudding 
 made by the Sisters of Mercy. I took notes of what was 
 required in kitchen utensils — alterations and improve- 
 ments in that department; and as one of Captain 
 Gordon’s best men was with me, our business proceeded 
 very rapidly. 
 
 Lady Stratford proposed that we should next visit 
 the principal kitchen. “ I think, from its appearance, 
 Monsieur Soyer, that it is in a very bad state.” Such 
 proved to be the case. It was in perfect darkness, 
 full of smoke, and the stoves, as large as those at 
 Scutari, required considerable alterations, the furnaces 
 being inside, instead of out, as at Scutari. The brick- 
 work was quite burnt out, and all the smoke came in the 
 kitchen, blinding the men, who could not support the 
 extra fatigue caused by this nuisance, even preferring 
 their dangerous duty in the trenches to this kind of 
 culinary inquisition, as it might very justly have been 
 called. They were in consequence changed every week, 
 or even oftener. The result of this was bad cookery 
 and the consumption of about 170 per cent, more 
 
NOVEL MODE OF COOKING. 
 
 129 
 
 wood than was necessary. The men actually piled 
 small trees, cut into lengths of five or six feet, upon the 
 fires; and when the soup boiled too fast they threw 
 pailsful of water upon the burning wood, thus filling the 
 ' place with dust and steam. As the boilers were screwed 
 down in the same manner as those at Scutari Barrack 
 Hospital, they had never been tinned since first used. I 
 at once had the furnaces put in order, and the skylight 
 over them repaired. I gave them my receipts, and sent 
 one of my men over for a few days to teach them how to 
 make the soup. I also promised Lady Stratford, who 
 took so much interest in the success of that hospital, to 
 call as often as I could ; and, after the opening of my 
 kitchens at Scutari, to spend a few days there, and super- 
 intend the cooking myself. 
 
 We then went to the General Hospital, on the top of 
 the hill, which contained three hundred patients. Having 
 had the honour of being introduced to the Sisters of Mercy, 
 I took notes of all that was wanted there, and we lastly 
 proceeded to the Riding School Hospital, appropriated 
 to the convalescents. There I had the pleasure of being 
 introduced to Miss Stanley, who had the superintendence 
 of the Sisters. This establishment had neither kitchen 
 nor cooking utensils. However, by the aid of the en- 
 gineer who accompanied us, everything was soon settled. 
 
 Yet, after all, I ordered nothing that was not indis- 
 pensable ; and I must remark that, with all the power 
 with which I was invested by the War Department, 
 coupled with the willing assistance of Captain Gordon, 
 I found it a difficult matter to get a plank, or even a 
 nail, fixed in any of the hospitals. At the same time, I 
 may add, with pride and gratitude, that throughout the 
 Crimean campaign I was most highly favoured by every 
 department ; for if anything I required was procurable, I 
 had it. 
 
 Lady Stratford and visitors having expressed their 
 satisfaction at the success of our visit, I was on the point 
 of retiring with Signor Roco Vido, when Lady Stratford 
 asked what day the kitchen at Scutari would be opened. 
 “ On Monday next,” was my reply. “ I presume we 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 A GRAND CULINARY EXPERIMENT. 
 
 shall be honoured with your ladyship’s presence, and 
 that of your suite .” — “ I shall not fail to attend. Monsieur 
 Soyer,” were her ladyship’s words. 
 
 The Sisters having thanked me, we retired. We 
 returned in a beautiful Oriental moonlight by the same 
 road — the panorama of the morning being now tinted by 
 the reflection of the soft rays of the moon. 
 
 Just as I had set everybody to work in the various 
 hospitals, and my Scutari kitchen was nearly finished, an 
 entirely new plan suggested itself to my mind. It was as 
 follows : — Instead of commencing with a hundred patients 
 at a time, as I had at first intended, I changed my mind, 
 and preferred making a grand opening, resolving to invite 
 all the heads of the medical department in the various 
 hospitals, as well as some of the most eminent among the 
 French and Turkish medical staff. This, I was aware, 
 was a bold experiment ; for had I failed — and many un- 
 foreseen events might have caused such a result — my repu- 
 tation would have suffered. I was, therefore, well aware 
 that I was risking the labour of twenty years against an 
 uncertainty ; as all those I was about to invite would 
 come to watch my proceedings with the eyes of Argus, 
 and would j udge of my plans accordingly. At all events, 
 my sample trials had already given great satisfaction to 
 two eminent doctors. In pursuance of this plan, I went to 
 Lord William Paulet, explained it, and begged him to 
 send, or cause to be sent, invitations to all the principal 
 officers to honour me with their presence upon the occa- 
 sion, which his lordship kindly promised to do. I also 
 apprised the doctor-in-chief, who promised to attend 
 himself, and invite the principal medical gentlemen to 
 do the same. 
 
 The opening day was fixed for the following Monday 
 — it was then Tuesday — leaving me till Thursday to 
 finish my preparations. On the Friday morning, after 
 having inspected several kitchens, and gone through a 
 number of wards, I was suddenly taken ill. I seemed to 
 have forgotten everything, and experienced at the same 
 time a sensation of brain fever. There were, however, 
 none of its symptoms. Although I was quite conscious 
 
DEPRESSION AND RECOVERY. 
 
 131 
 
 of what I had to do, I was entirely incapable of doing* it, 
 or of ordering anything or directing any one. In fact, I 
 began to fear that all my former endeavours would prove 
 useless, and the opening of my kitchen be a marked failure. 
 The day appointed by Lord Paulet could not easily be 
 changed, and such a course would have caused the success 
 of my project to be doubted. Though I had a couple of 
 assistants, neither of them could carry it out for me, as 
 they did not know my plans. This sudden indisposition 
 I only mentioned to my people and to Doctor Macgregor, 
 who told me to keep quiet, and gave me some soothing 
 medicine. It was Sunday afternoon before my head was 
 clear, and, after a good night’s rest, I felt myself again, 
 and quite able to open my kitchen on the day appointed. 
 
 The doctor attributed this mental disorder to the effect 
 produced by the immense number of sick and wounded I 
 was in the habit of seeing daily, and the numerous dead 
 bodies passing before the windows to be buried. I had 
 also witnessed several cases of autopsy and some opera- 
 tions. “This,” he said, “with the constant worry of 
 business, has unnerved you to that extent, that had you 
 unfortunately taken the fever, you would perhaps never 
 have recovered your senses.” However, thanks to a 
 kind Providence, I was able to open my kitchen at the 
 appointed time. It met with perfect success, and the 
 entire approbation of all the medical gentlemen and 
 visitors present. They all expressed themselves highly 
 gratified, and declared that the various samples of diets I 
 then submitted for their opinion were much preferable to 
 those produced under the old system, besides having the 
 merit of being concocted with the same ration allowance. 
 
 The plan I adopted was this : — my samples of diets 
 and extra diets being prepared, I arranged the basins 
 containing the different diets on the table, and in juxta- 
 position I placed those prepared by the soldiers, affix- 
 ing a number to each, to enable the people present to 
 make a comparison. All was ready by eleven o’clock, 
 and one being the time appointed for the arrival of the 
 visitors, I fetched Doctor Gumming, and requested him 
 to taste the several samples, and give me his candid 
 
 k 2 
 
133 
 
 OPENING OE THE KITCHEN. 
 
 opinion ; observing that everything was made from the 
 usual allowance, and cost about the same, or even less, 
 when made in large quantities. 
 
 No. 1, was beef-tea. Tasting my sample first, Doctor 
 Cumming pronounced it good ; the other, without taste 
 or flavour. No. 1 was adopted. 
 
 Then followed chicken-broth, mutton-broth, beef-soup, 
 rice-water, barley-water, arrowroot-water, ditto with 
 wine, sago with port, calves^-foot jelly, &c. Everythiug 
 was found superior, and so highly commended by the 
 doctor-in- chief, I no longer had any doubt of success, 
 nor of the general approval of all the faculty. I promised 
 to lay the recipes for my new diets before the doctor the 
 next day, and he retired.* 
 
 About half-past twelve, the kitchen was crowded to 
 excess with military and medical men. Lord William 
 Paulet entered, followed by his staff, and accompanied by 
 Mr. Milton, Mr. and Mrs. Bracebridge, &c. They were 
 much pleased with the cleanly appearance of the kitchen, 
 and equally surprised at the alteration which it had under- 
 gone in so short a time. I then showed his lordship round, 
 carefully pointing out to him the simple but useful altera- 
 tions I had effected; and requested him to taste the 
 various samples, compare the one with the other, and 
 give his candid opinion thereupon. Having done this. 
 Lord W. Paulet expressed his high satisfaction, and to 
 confirm it, while in the kitchen, wrote the following 
 letter : — 
 
 Lord William Laulet to Monsieur Soyer. 
 
 It is with great pleasure that I state I have carefully viewed and 
 tasted the new diets introduced by Monsieur Soyer in the hospitals 
 this day ; and had I not seen and tasted them, I could not have 
 believed that such an amelioration could have been produced from the 
 same materials as allowed by Government. W. Paulet. 
 
 Above a hundred officials from the various hospitals 
 were present, and many of the Sisters of Mercy. Not 
 one person had anything to say in disapproval ; but, on 
 
 # If I dwell so minutely upon these apparently frivolous details, 
 it is only because I wish to show that I did not introduce anything 
 until it had first met with the approval of the medical gentlemen. 
 
THE BARRACK HOSPITAL KITCHEN, SCUTARI. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ASSURED TRIUMPH. 
 
 133 
 
 the contrary, praised everything. This was sufficient 
 to stamp it with success. The only thing I regretted 
 was, that — owing to the rough state of the Bosphorus 
 that day — Lady Stratford de Redcliffe, as well as a 
 number of military men and medical officers from the 
 French and Turkish hospitals, were not present. How- 
 ever, they visited my kitchen some days after, and 
 having inspected everything, added their testimonials of 
 approbation to those I had already received. They were 
 particularly struck with the cleanliness and order in a 
 place where so much was done daily. 
 
 The day after the opening, I proposed to Doctors 
 Cumming and Macgregor, the superintendent, to take 
 one wing of the hospital, which contained one-fourth 
 of the patients, and supply these with all which they 
 might require. This I did with the greatest ease, and 
 without the least confusion, much to the satisfaction 
 of the patients. I continued to do this for three days, 
 and then took half of the hospital in hand. As I wished 
 fully to impress the patients with the superiority of my 
 newly-adopted diets, I then took the other half in 
 hand, and put the first back to the old regime , for a day or 
 two, as I was not quite prepared to undertake the whole 
 at once. The patients immediately became dissatisfied, 
 so I was obliged to go with Dr. Macgregor to them and 
 explain the reason of the sudden change, which was only 
 momentary, three cheers from my numerous guests 
 closing my laconic, though effective, speech. 
 
134 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE SCUTARI MISSION ACCOMPLISHED. 
 
 The extra-diet kitchens closed — One large kitchen — Plan for keeping 
 the dinners hot — General satisfaction — The General Hospital — 
 Summons to Kululee — Labours there — Palace and Hyder Pacha 
 Hospitals — Ordered to proceed to the Crimea — Model field- stove 
 —Conversation with Lord W. Paulet — A new Purveyor-in-chief 
 — Companions for the voyage to the Crimea — An evening at Dr. 
 Macgregor’s — Return home — A midnight scene — The dying 
 soldier — The guardian angel — Mr. Robertson, the new purveyor 
 —Pinal tour of inspection — General Vivian and his aide-de-camp 
 —Parting testimony. 
 
 A eew days afterwards, I closed all the extra-diet 
 kitchens, with the exception of the one under the direction 
 of Miss Nightingale, and another under the direction of 
 Dr. Taylor, having discharged about twenty soldier 
 cooks, who consumed daily ten times more fuel than was 
 required ; this at the same time much deteriorated the 
 quality of the extra diets, which required the greatest 
 attention as regarded the regulation of the heat. We 
 prepared everything in the one large kitchen — viz., 
 breakfast, dinner, tea, extra-diets, the cooking for the 
 orderlies, &c., included. Having got all under my own 
 eye, I placed two civilian cooks in charge of the extra- 
 diets, with six soldiers to assist them, who might at the 
 same time be instructed, instead of the twelve before 
 required — thus simplifying the whole process. 
 
 The only difficulty that remained was, how to send 
 the dinners hot to the various wards, on account of the 
 distance being so great. Miss Nightingale submitted a 
 very excellent plan, which was adopted with success. It is 
 very similar to that in use in the French hospitals, with 
 this difference, that we introduced double cases in which 
 to carry boiling water, thus keeping the contents of the 
 several divisions hot much longer. Two of these cases 
 
GENERAL AMELIORATION. 
 
 135 
 
 were sufficient for each ward, and after they had been in 
 use for a week, no establishment could be in better order. 
 Had there been room in the hospital we could have 
 accommodated as many more patients with the greatest 
 ease, the receipts being regulated by weight and measure, 
 from an ounce for certain articles, to seven or eight cvvt. 
 for others. I must also observe, in thanking Mr. Milton, 
 the purveyor, that he rendered me the full amount of 
 assistance he had promised, and without such powerful 
 aid, as well as that of Mr. Tucker, it would have been 
 impossible for me to have made so much progress in so 
 short a period. 
 
 In the first place, the provisions were improved — the 
 old fowls got unexpectedly younger, and the fuel was 
 better. I was thus perfectly satisfied, and so was every- 
 body else — medical officers as well as patients. As soon as 
 the alterations at the General Hospital were completed, 
 and which made a very good kitchen, being clean, light, 
 and commodious, instead of being ill-adapted for the 
 purpose, as I at first found it, I paid a second visit to 
 Doctor Lawson, the chief medical officer of this hospital. 
 I then tried some experiments before him and numerous 
 other doctors similar to those I had previously made at 
 the Barrack Hospital, and with the same success; and 
 I must say, as far as the extra diet went, in justice 
 to Doctor O’ Flaherty, the under-superintendent, with a 
 great deal less trouble than I experienced at the Barrack 
 Hospital ; Doctor O’Flaherty having carefully watched 
 over and disposed of that very important department. I 
 next went to Kululee, then in charge of the new lady 
 manager, Miss Hutton, who had replaced Miss Stanley. 
 I received the following letter from that lady, and at 
 once placed myself at her disposal. 
 
 Kululee Hospital, April, 14th, 1855. 
 
 Monsieur, — I hear that you are on the point of leaving Scutari. 
 When may we hope that you will come to Kululee P A few days 
 of your instruction and superintendence might effect more good than 
 I can express. I am, yours, &c., 
 
 Emily Hutton. 
 
 The day after the receipt of this I went to Kululee, 
 
136 
 
 GRATIFYING CHANGES. 
 
 where I had the pleasure of seeing Miss Hutton for the 
 first time, and met with a most gracious reception from 
 that lady and her assistants. We next visited the General 
 Hospital upon the heights, where I was introduced to 
 the matron and the Irish Sisters of Charity. These 
 ladies were very anxious to obtain some utensils and 
 have a new extra-diet kitchen built. Captain Gordon’s 
 assistant made a small sketch of the place, and undertook 
 to have it done at once, being aware of its necessity. 
 I left quite satisfied that it would be immediately put 
 in execution. 
 
 It only remained for me to give a list of the utensils 
 required to the purveyor-in-cliief; and shortly after, in 
 company with that gentleman, I paid another visit to 
 the hospital, where, thanks to his attention, they had 
 a most effective kitchen. I regretted that the large 
 kitchen for the convalescent belonged to the Turkish au- 
 thorities, as it could not be altered to my liking. Nothing 
 could be altered without an order from the Turkish 
 officials, and to obtain this, would have taken as long a 
 time as the duration of the war. Upon leaving the General 
 Hospital, we visited the Barrack Hospital, where we 
 found every department perfect — the orders given upon 
 our former visit with Lady Stratford de Redcliffe having 
 been carried out to the letter. I was now introduced 
 to Doctor Humphrey, who had been appointed in lieu 
 of another medical gentleman. He accompanied us 
 round the hospital, and kindly offered me a bed for the 
 night, which I accepted — having to cook for the patients 
 the next morning, as well as to instruct some soldier- 
 cooks who were at the convalescent hospital, called the 
 Riding School. The next day I was in full action, and 
 received visits from every doctor and Sister of Charity, 
 who all approved of the diets, as well as my new teapot, 
 in which I made in the space of ten minutes, out of the 
 ration tea, enough strong tea for about thirty persons ; 
 thus effecting a saving of at least ten per cent. At the 
 desire of Miss Hutton, I afterwards sent a civilian cook 
 to the Barrack Hospital, to carry out the system, and 
 to set the various kitchen departments in order. But 
 
ORDERED TO THE CRIMEA. 
 
 137 
 
 I must observe in full justice to that lady, who had 
 succeeded Miss Stanley, that since my last visit to 
 these hospitals, every department under her care was 
 so much improved that hardly anything* was required 
 to perfect them. Although the hospitals were full of 
 patients, the lady assistants who attended this duty 
 appeared to devote their utmost energies to the benevo- 
 lent and humane cause for which they had left their 
 native homes. 
 
 Thence I went to the Palace Hospital, Hyder Pacha, 
 and having had a new kitchen built for the use of 
 the officers, placed a good civilian cook in it, and with 
 the assent and assistance of Doctors Gumming and 
 M'Elray, the doctor-in-chief, composed a bill of fare 
 for their mess. Having arranged everything in the 
 various hospitals to my satisfaction, I was honoured 
 by several visits from Lady Stratford de Pedcliffe, 
 who expressed her own and Lord Stratford’s approba- 
 tion of my management, and both afterwards took 
 a most lively interest in the success of my proceedings. 
 I then was requested by Lord Panmure to proceed to 
 the Crimea for the same purpose, and also to try and 
 improve the system of camp cookery for the soldiers. 
 I therefore informed Lord William Paulet of my antici- 
 pated departure for the seat of war, showing him, at 
 the same time, my small model field stove. Having 
 explained its principle, he expressed his approval of its 
 simplicity. I said, “I expect ten of those stoves, 
 which, upon arrival, I wish to have forwarded to the 
 Crimea. I have managed to make use of the Turkish 
 coppers at the hospital, which answer perfectly well, 
 and of the existence of which I was not aware before 
 leaving England. They are the same as those adopted 
 in the hospital at Smyrna, and, although too large for 
 camp use, would do very well for my trial before the 
 Crimean authorities. If these stoves are approved of, 
 those for the army on march or in camp can be made 
 thus — viz., two for a company, both of which can be 
 carried on the back of one mule, with sufficient wood 
 inside for two days. When on march, they will cook 
 
138 
 
 MODEL EIELD-STOVES. 
 
 either under cover or in the open air, and in all weathers, 
 and the quantity of fuel required will be a mere trifle 
 compared with the present consumption. Thus you 
 perceive, my lord, that two small ones will cook for a 
 full company of a hundred or a hundred and twenty 
 men, though I am aware a company seldom exceeds a 
 hundred in number. This will not matter much; and 
 it is better to have them too large than too small. We 
 can also have smaller ones for picket and outpost duty.” 
 “You are right. Monsieur Soyer; and I must say 
 your plan appears very sensible and well conceived. I 
 heartily wish you the same success in the Crimea that 
 you have met with here.” 
 
 “In order to prevent any inconvenience from my 
 departure from the hospital, I will put all in good trim, 
 and leave the whole under the superintendence of a 
 corporal who is now well acquainted with my system; 
 and I shall request several doctors to send occasionally 
 for soup, broth, pudding, &c., unknown to the cook, to 
 see if any alteration takes place after my departure; and 
 perhaps your lordship would oblige me by doing the same. 
 This will make them attentive to the proportions re- 
 quired and the proper management of the cooking.” 
 
 “I assure you I often send for a basin of the soldiers’ 
 soup for my lunch, it is so very good.” 
 
 “ I do not think you will find any difference after my 
 departure, although many persons say that it is all very 
 well so long as I am here, but that as soon as my back 
 is turned it will be as bad as ever. Colonel Dennis, in 
 particular, will not be persuaded ; I will vouch for the 
 contrary, as my receipts are all done by weight and 
 measure, and that causes much less trouble. Before I 
 came they had never done working, and all for want of a 
 proper system of management. Doctor Gumming and 
 myself have talked over the subject, and we have no fear 
 of the result. The only thing required is for the serjeant in 
 charge to see all properly attended to in the morning.” 
 “I shall be happy to give you a letter to Lord 
 Raglan, with whom I suppose you are acquainted.” 
 
 “I am; but it is above twelve years since I had the 
 
NEWS, GOOD AND BAD. 
 
 139 
 
 pleasure of seeing his lordship, and that was at the 
 Reform Club ; therefore a letter from your lordship, in 
 addition to one from the Minister-at-War, cannot fail to 
 be very acceptable.” 
 
 “ It shall be ready for you to-morrow morning. By 
 the way, I hope you do not intend to go before the new 
 purveyor-in-chief comes. It is most important that 
 you should see him.” 
 
 “Indeed! I was not aware that we were to have a 
 new purveyor-in -chief. I very much regret it — but is 
 Mr. Milton going?” 
 
 “ Of course he is : he only came out here till another 
 could be appointed. He cannot remain, as he holds a 
 very important appointment at the War- Office, and his 
 presence is required in London. I should advise you to 
 see him, and mention about your stoves. He will forward 
 them to Balaklava for you.” 
 
 “ I will do so, my lord. I much regret taking up so 
 much of your valuable time.” 
 
 “ Do not mention that. Monsieur Soyer. This is 
 business, and to my mind of great importance.” 
 
 “ A fresh tribulation !” thought I ; “a new purveyor- 
 in- chief, who, in my absence, may upset everything I have 
 done !” I went immediately to Miss Nightingale, to 
 inquire whether she had heard of this change. I met 
 Mr. Bracebridge there, and he told me that he had 
 known it for some time. He informed me that Miss 
 Nightingale and himself were going to the Crimea, and 
 proposed that we should all start together. I, of course, 
 was much pleased at the news, as I knew that Miss 
 Nightingale would be of great assistance to me in the 
 hospitals in the Crimea. I then promised Mr. Brace- 
 bridge to be ready on the day fixed for our departure. 
 Mr. Bracebridge said, “ Miss Nightingale is engaged at 
 present. Do you wish to see her ?” 
 
 “ No ; I am going to Mr. Milton, to speak about the 
 stoves I mentioned the other day, and to inquire when 
 the new purveyor-in-chief is coming.” 
 
 “ Oh, I can tell you that — he will be here to-morrow 
 without fail.” 
 
140 
 
 NEW COOKING APPARATUS. 
 
 “ That will do nicely. We shall just have time to 
 become acquainted, and settle everything 1 before my 
 departure to the seat of war.” 
 
 I found Mr. Milton preparing for his departure. 
 
 “Well, Monsieur Soyer, have you any message for 
 London?” said he, with a jovial face and a smile. 
 
 “It is with great regret that I have just heard of 
 your intended departure, and the arrival of a new pur- 
 veyor-in-chief.” 
 
 “ I assure you that I have had quite enough of Scutari 
 and its bother, and much prefer the London fog to the 
 bright sun of the East and its accessory annoyances. 
 The fact is, I was only herein? tem ., till some one could 
 be permanently appointed, but I did not expect to be 
 recalled so early. Yesterday I received my feuille de 
 route , as you call it in French, from the War Office. 
 I hope to have the pleasure of introducing you to Mr. 
 Robertson, my successor, to-morrow, and the day after I 
 shall probably be off.” 
 
 “ I shall start a few days after you, but not exactly in 
 the same direction.” 
 
 “Where are you going, Monsieur Soyer?” 
 
 “Why, are you not aware that Miss Nightingale, Mr. 
 Bracebridge, and myself are going on Saturday next to 
 the Crimea?” 
 
 “ Oh, that's right ! Some one was saying you would 
 not go to the camp.” 
 
 “ What could make them say so ? Not fear on my part 
 — for of that I never dream ; besides, our lives are more in 
 danger here in the hospital than in the open air. The 
 observation I made to the Minister-at-War, respecting 
 the camp, was this, — that unless I could invent a cooking 
 apparatus for the army to supersede the tin kettles I had 
 seen at Chobham, it would be useless to attempt to teach 
 the men to cook. An officer who happened to be present 
 observed, ‘You're right, Monsieur Soyer; they appear very 
 unfit for a heavy company. — I have remarked that myself.' 
 By-the-bye,have you seen the French canteens — mar mites, 
 as they call them ? They are very superior, and much larger 
 than ours, besides being made of better metal. One soldier 
 
A JOVIAL DOCTOR. 
 
 141 
 
 is, however, required to cook for every sixteen men with 
 them, and they present the same difficulty with respect 
 to open-air cooking.* This is especially the case on a 
 long march — while those stoves, the model of which I had 
 submitted to the War Office, were quite free from any 
 such inconvenience.” 
 
 “ They will be ordered,” said Mr. Milton, “ as soon as 
 they are approved of by the Crimean authorities.” 
 
 “I am glad to hear you say so; but my greatest 
 anxiety now, Mr. Milton, is to see the new purveyor- 
 in- chief, and have a fair understanding with him, so 
 that during my absence he may not undo what you and 
 I have so successfully commenced.” 
 
 “ You may depend upon it that I shall advise him for 
 the best on that subject,” said Mr. Milton. 
 
 The evening was spent cheerfully at Doctor Mac- 
 gregor’s. The American clock upon the doctor’s chimney- 
 piece deceived his guests, if not the doctor, who was at 
 once good-natured, amiable, and uncommonly fond of 
 anecdote, and, like a true Scotchman, professed an 
 immense deal of veneration of, and attachment to, his 
 whisky-toddy. “ The day,” he used to say, “ is for manual 
 labour, the evening for comfort and sociality ; but, alas ! 
 in my case, night and day are the same — I may be 
 
 * I believe I am correct in stating that, in the French army, one 
 soldier has to cook for a squad of sixteen men, while in camp : and 
 that he has charge of two canteen kettles. I always saw five or 
 six men cooking for a company in each kitchen ; there were ten 
 kitchens to a regiment of ten companies. This the soldiers told me 
 themselves. 
 
 I make this remark to corroborate what I afterwards said in 
 Paris before several French officers who contradicted me, but who, 
 I believe, were not in the Crimean war. They stated that they only 
 had two cooks to one company while campaigning. Upon making 
 inquiries of a corporal who had charge of that department in his 
 regiment while in the Crimea, he assured me that it was one man to 
 each kettle, and not one to two — afterwards divided into two messes, 
 forming a squad of nine or ten men, which would be equal to one 
 hundred men to a regiment of one thousand in strength, instead of 
 eight, as I at first calculated, or about ten squads to a company. 
 While in barracks, comparatively speaking, it only requires a few 
 men per regiment. 
 
142 
 
 A DEATH-BED SCENE. 
 
 called at any hour; therefore, the longer you favour me 
 
 with your company, my friends, the better I shall like it 
 you may depend.” 9 
 
 We now perceived that the clock was under the 
 powerful influence of the doctor's “ treatment;” neverthe- 
 less, common sense induced us all to rise and leave, and 
 alter a hearty shaking of hands, and no end of good wishes 
 we parted. On arriving at the second door, which opened 
 upon one of the grand avenues of sick and wounded, we 
 retired m a silent and mournful procession— except the 
 groans of the sufferers, nothing was heard but the friction 
 
 ° i ^* U i 4. 00 * 8 u P on the stone floor, already worn into 
 a kind of groove between the rows of beds upon which 
 lay the sick and wounded, caused by the constant passim* 
 and repassing of the doctors. Sisters of Mercy, orderlies* 
 and other officials m attendance upon the patients 
 
 L\ C* tTTA *T~ 1 -l -MW /-v X L - _ . 1 r* I 1 * 
 
 As we turned the angle of the long corridor to the 
 
 rig;ht, we perceived, at a great distance, a faint light 
 flying from bed to bed, like a will-o’-the-wisp flickerin'* 
 m a meadow on a summer’s eve, which at last rested upon 
 one spot; or as a bee sporting from flower to flower, till 
 it at length lights upon a delicious floral banquet, which 
 the insect determines not to leave till it has extracted 
 the las o drop of honey from the devoted pistil. 
 
 But, alas! as we approached, we perceived our mis- 
 take. A group in the shape of a silhouette unfolded its 
 outline in light shade. As we came nearer and nearer, 
 the picture burst upon us. A dying soldier was half 
 lee mmg upon his bed. Life, you could observe, was 
 fast bidding him adieu; Death, that implacable deity, 
 was anxiously waiting for his soul to convey it to its 
 eternal destination. 
 
 But stop ! near him was a guardian angel, sitting 
 ao tne foot of his bed, and most devotedly engaged 
 pencilling down his last wishes to be despatched to his 
 homely friends or relations. A watch and a few more 
 trinkets were consigned to the care of the writer; a 
 lighted lamp was held by another person, and threw a 
 pamtui yellowish colons over that mournful picture, which 
 a itembrandt alone could have traced, but which every- 
 
A PLEASANT SURPRISE. 
 
 143 
 
 body, as long as the world lasts, would have understood, 
 felt, and admired. It was then near two o’clock in the 
 morning. 
 
 Approaching, I made inquiries of Miss Nightingale 
 as to the complaint of her patient, when she replied 
 in French, that the poor fellow was given up by the 
 doctors, and was not likely to get through the night ; 
 “ so I have been engaged noting down his last wishes, 
 in order to forward them to his relatives.” 
 
 The next morning, Miss Nightingale, Mr. Bracebridge, 
 and myself had a long conversation respecting our plan 
 of operations in the coming campaign. Having settled 
 everything to our satisfaction, I once more went round 
 the hospitals ; and, upon reaching home, I heard that Mr. 
 Robertson had arrived. He had been represented to me, 
 by some person or other, as a very old and infirm man, 
 wearing green spectacles. At the time I heard this, I was 
 in the company of a very illustrious personage, who was 
 visiting my kitchen, and he also listened to the serjeant 
 giving this description, and very justly observed, that 
 for such a fatiguing situation a young man was required. 
 “ Now,” he continued, pointing from the kitchen door 
 to the building, “ observe the tremendous distance it is 
 from one end of the building to the other. A purveyor 
 should go round once a-day, independent of the business 
 of his office. I tell you what — I have found out this much 
 myself, that the head, when properly screwed on, lasts 
 much longer than the legs ; and when both are required 
 at the same time, there is an additional strain.” 
 
 While we were discussing this important subject, in 
 walked Mr. Milton, accompanied by an old gentleman, 
 as described by the serjeant, and a third person. To my 
 surprise, Mr. Robertson was not the reverend old man. 
 He happened to be one of Mr. Robertson’s friends, in- 
 stead of himself.* Instead of being an old man, I found 
 him the very person wanted — about thirty years of age — 
 
 * If I have here related this anecdote, it is with the intention of 
 showing the effect produced by the report upon all engaged in the 
 hospitals, who felt that a gentleman of that age, though very capable, 
 might, with his antique notions, upset what was then going on so well. 
 
144 
 
 A PARTING VISIT. 
 
 full of vigour and intelligence. In a short time I was 
 perfectly acquainted with his qualifications for the office 
 to which he had been appointed — requiring, as I said 
 before, so much bodily exercise. The few days I had 
 to remain at Scutari enabled us to come to a perfect 
 understanding. 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer,” said Mr. Milton, “ I now leave you 
 in very good hands. I have explained everything to Mr. 
 Robertson respecting your department, and I am certain 
 he will be kind enough to attend to it in your absence. 
 I am off for England to-morrow; therefore, fare you 
 well ; take care of yourself in the Crimea. I have also 
 spoken to Mr. Robertson about your stoves; he will 
 forward them to the Crimea as soon as they arrive.” 
 
 “ I wish you a pleasant journey, Mr. Milton. I hope 
 to have the pleasure of seeing you in London.” 
 
 Mr. Robertson accompanied me round the various 
 stores, and after passing all in review, and noting what 
 would be required in future, we parted. I felt fully con- 
 vinced that my former efforts would not be destroyed, as 
 I had at first feared. The next day we went to the 
 General and the Palace Hospitals and Kululee, and 
 made similar arrangements. I now felt almost free of the 
 hospitals, though my intention was to run down from the 
 Crimea now and then to have a look at them, as the 
 least mismanagement would create confusion. I then 
 requested Lord W. Paulet to devote a few hours, before 
 my departure, to visiting the other hospitals, and he very 
 kindly fixed upon that afternoon. Mr. Robertson, Lord 
 W. Paulet, the Hon. Captain Bourke, his lordship’s aide- 
 de-camp, and myself rode over to the various hospitals, 
 and I pointed out the improvements I had made, all of 
 which Lord W. Paulet considered very effective and 
 judicious, and promised that they should be followed up, 
 referring me at the same time to Mr. Robertson. “ That 
 gentleman,” he said, “is now major-domo in the pur- 
 veyor’s department.” 
 
 I told Lord W. Paulet that Mr. Robertson and myself 
 had already settled everything, and we rode back to 
 the Barrack Hospital. Lord W. Paulet very kindly 
 
LOUD W. PAULEYS KIND AID. 
 
 145 
 
 invited me to dine with him, and I much regretted 
 that time did not allow of my accepting the invita- 
 tion, as we had to leave the next morning, and I wished 
 to see Miss Nightingale and Mr. Bracebridge; but I 
 promised to return and spend a part of the evening with 
 him, which I did, and very merrily too. I must say that, 
 in all the transactions connected with my mission to the 
 Crimea, to no gentleman am I more indebted than to 
 Lord W. Paulet, whose gracious reception, continued 
 kindness, and the extreme confidence he placed in me, 
 gave me such extraordinary encouragement that it greatly 
 tended to my success : a failure might have been the 
 result, had he treated me otherwise. Lord W. Paulet 
 gave me the promised letters, and signed the following 
 paper : — 
 
 Scutari Barrack Hospital, Constantinople, 
 
 May 1st, 1855. 
 
 To Brigadier - General Lord Wm. Paulet. — Important 
 regulations to insure for the future a good, clean, wholesome, and 
 nutritious class of food, and delicate beverages, to be daily produced 
 for the comfort of the sick and wounded in all the hospitals of the 
 East, as well as for the standing army, which will prove economical 
 both in a saving of time, and also a pecuniary sense. Monsieur Soyer 
 most respectfully solicits the assistance of Brigadier-General Lord 
 Wm. Paulet in granting the following requisites, which Monsieur 
 Soyer considers indispensable to carry out the objects of the im- 
 portant mission conferred on him by the Government of her Britannic 
 Majesty Queen Victoria the First, and of which his lordship has 
 already given proofs of his high approval and satisfaction, as well as 
 his assistance in facilitating the introduction of a completely new 
 system of diet, which has met with the approval of Doctor Cumming, 
 the chief medical officer, and every medical gentleman connected 
 with his staff in the various English hospitals at Constantinople. 
 
 First requisite. — That for every important hospital, a professed 
 man-cook shall be engaged, with a civilian assistant, instead of 
 military, as is now the case, and the principal to be under military 
 rules and regulations. 
 
 Second. — That all military men now engaged cooking in the 
 hospitals and barrack kitchens shall be immediately instructed in 
 the art of camp-cooking. As they are already acquainted with the 
 plain mode of cooking, it will only require a few lessons from 
 Monsieur Soyer, under his new and simple style, to become thoroughly 
 conversant with this branch of culinary operations, highly essential 
 at the present crisis, and about which the Eight Honourable Lord 
 
146 
 
 FLATTERING TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Panmure, her Majesty’s Minister- at- War, expressed the greatest 
 anxiety personally to Monsieur Soyer, on his mission to Scutari, with 
 a view to disseminating the system throughout the army. Monsieur 
 Soyer feels assured that if present in the camp for a few weeks he 
 will be enabled to carry out this important object, at the same time 
 introducing wholesome and nutritious food made out of the usual 
 allowances of provisions supplied to the army, so soon as his field or 
 bivouac stove shall be adopted by the Crimean authorities. 
 
 A. Soyer. 
 
 Approved. W. Patjlet, B.-General, Commanding Troops. 
 
 Scutari, May 1st, 1855. 
 
 I then returned my thanks and bade his lordship adieu. 
 Thus terminated my Scutari duties, which were after- 
 wards carried on to my entire satisfaction under the 
 direction of Mr. Robertson, and supported by Lord W. 
 Paulet ; later by General Storks, now Sir Henry, who 
 succeeded his lordship. 
 
 Shortly after the opening of my kitchen, I received a 
 visit from General Vivian and his aide-de-camp, Captain 
 Ramsey. During his visit, Miss Nightingale entered the 
 kitchen. I then introduced the General to her, and we 
 had a very animated and interesting conversation relating 
 to hospital treatment, &e. The General expressed his 
 high gratification at being introduced to Miss Nightin- 
 gale, and I then had the honour of showing him through 
 the hospital, not omitting the other kitchens, where the 
 cooking was still carried on upon the old system, as I 
 had not had, in that short space of time, an opportunity to 
 remedy it. The General and Captain Ramsey expressed 
 their high approval and satisfaction of the great im- 
 provement I had already made in the culinary depart- 
 ment of that monster establishment. I may, perhaps, 
 be pardoned for being vain enough to quote the gallant 
 General’s remark prior to his leaving my kitchen, which 
 remark encouraged me so much in the prosecution of my 
 labours. It was thus 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, Miss Nightingale’s name and your 
 own will be for ever associated in the archives of this 
 memorable war.” 
 
147 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 DEPARTURE EOR THE CRIMEA. 
 
 Departure — Bosphorus gulls — The Sultan afloat — The 'Robert Lowe 
 — Splendid scene — Godfrey Tower — Sweet Waters of Asia— 
 Therapia — Buyukdere — The Giant’s Mountain — The Euxine— 
 Naval cookery — Miss Nightingale and the sick soldier — Divine 
 service at sea — Conversation with Mis3 Nightingale — Plans for 
 the future — Dinner on board the Robert Lowe — A travelling 
 gentleman — P. M. and the looking-glass, an anecdote — A mutiny 
 — The prison — View of the Russian coast — Bay of Balaklava— 
 The harbour — Cossack Bay — P. M.’s horror — At anchor— 
 Moored for the night. 
 
 The 2nd of May was the day on which we set sail 
 for the Crimea. It was indeed a lovely day — the 
 air was redolent with perfume and freshness; not a 
 ripple seemed to ruffle the surface of the mighty 
 Bosphorus, whose ever-foaming current appeared to 
 have buried itself deep in the bed of that turbulent 
 stream. A few caiques were seen here and there swiftly 
 gliding over its calm surface, occasionally disturbed 
 by the dipping of the sea-gulls. The Bosphorus gulls 
 have a peculiar chalky colour, differing from that of 
 the ocean bird, which circumstance, no doubt, caused 
 Lord Byron, in his beautiful poem, to call them the 
 ghosts of the Houris, launched to eternity in the depths 
 of that solemn flood of romance, poetical love, and tragic 
 reminiscence. While skimming its surface they darted 
 now and then with the rapidity of lightning down upon 
 a rash little denizen of the deep who had ventured too 
 near the surface of the limpid element to bask in the 
 warmth of the generous rays of that friend of the whole 
 world, the sun. All was peace, love, and repose. A 
 vaporous golden tint seemed to envelope the world-famed 
 city of Constantinople — its mosques, forests of minarets. 
 Golden Horn, and European and Asiatic shores, with 
 
 l 2 
 
148 “MAKE HASTE; BOATMAN.” 
 
 the Oriental atmosphere so peculiar to the Bosphorus. 
 Nature seemed to be in its most sublime humour ; 
 heaven; earth, and ocean had that day agreed to be in 
 love with humanity. 
 
 On a sudden, the report of cannon is heard; and 
 the roar of this fatal messenger of war is echoed and 
 re-echoed from every part of the city. Caiques of 
 large dimensions; gorgeously decorated with gilding 
 and rich silken hangings; manned by numerous oars- 
 men; leave the marble staircase of the Dolma Bachi 
 Palace. Numbers of smaller caiques follow in the wake 
 of this nautical procession; which directs its course towards 
 the Moslem city of Stamboul. As the flotilla passed 
 close to US; we perceived that it contained the Sultan and 
 his suite; proceeding to theMosque of SultanMahomet — it 
 being Friday; and the Turkish Sunday. His Sublime 
 Majesty is always saluted with about fifty guns at his 
 departure; and the same number on his return from that 
 ceremony. 
 
 This startling shock awoke me from a kind of lethargy, 
 and made me recollect that I had embarked in a caique 
 at Tophane, and that I was then afloat. Of a sudden 
 we were hailed several times from a large ship close at 
 hand, with the words “ Chabouk ! Chabouk ! Balabak !” 
 which means, “ make haste, boatman.” At the same 
 time, the hissing of a steamer, just getting under way, 
 was heard. In a trice we were alongside, and a minute 
 after I was upon the deck of the Robert Lowe. A few 
 words of remonstrance were addressed to me by the 
 captain. “Indeed, Monsieur S oyer, we were going with- 
 out you ! You are full half an hour behind time. Mr. 
 Bracebridge and Miss Nightingale have inquired several 
 times after you.” 
 
 “Well, captain, I assure you they told me at Major 
 Macdonald* s office, that you would not start till noon.** 
 
 “ That was our intention ; but having shipped all the 
 troops, I wished to leave earlier, as we must make our 
 time for entering the harbour of Balaklava, which is now 
 so full that if we were to miss our turn, we might be 
 kept outside for a day or two, and that would not be at 
 
TURKISH SOLEMNITIES. 
 
 149 
 
 all pleasant, especially if we happen to have rough 
 weather. Here is Mr. Bracebridge; he is, no doubt, 
 looking for you.” 
 
 The screw was by this time propelling us slowly out of 
 the Golden Horn. 
 
 “Good morning, Monsieur Soyer ; have you all your 
 people on board ?” said Mr. Bracebridge. 
 
 “ Yes, I have.” 
 
 “ I have only seen your secretary.” 
 
 “ Oh, I am sure they are here ; I sent them on board 
 this morning before nine o’clock, previous to going to 
 Pera. Pray how is Miss Nightingale?” 
 
 “ She will be on deck directly. By-the-bye, is Made- 
 moiselle a good sailor ?” 
 
 “ Tolerably good ; with this weather no one need fear 
 being ill at sea,” said I, “ though I hear the Black Sea 
 is so very changeable, and that a tremendous hurricane 
 often comes up suddenly even in the middle of summer. 
 At all events, we have a good start.” 
 
 We were then passing between lower Scutari and the 
 Sultan’s palace, and facing us was the Sound of the 
 Bosphorus, presenting a most delightful view of the 
 European and the Asiatic shores. When I observed to 
 Mr. Bracebridge that it was a pity Miss Nightingale was 
 not on deck, he answered, “ You’re right ; I will go and 
 fetch her.” 
 
 A few minutes afterwards that lady made her appearance. 
 
 “ What a delightful day ! and did you ever see a finer 
 panorama ?” 
 
 “ Never, Monsieur SoyeY” 
 
 “What a glorious mine of subjects for a Claude Lor- 
 raine, mademoiselle ! It is much to be regretted that 
 he never visited these Moslem shores.” 
 
 The vessel was now going at full speed. 
 
 “We are near Kululee,” said Mr. Bracebridge. 
 
 “ Yes, we are,” said I ; “ and there is our friend the 
 Bey on the palace steps. Look at him. Miss ; he is in 
 his grand costume. I wonder what is going on there 
 to-day ?” 
 
 “To-day,” replied Mr. Bracebridge, “is Friday, the 
 
150 
 
 ENCHANTING SCENES. 
 
 Turkish Sunday. Did you not hear the cannon just 
 now, when the Sultan went to the Mosque ?” 
 
 “ Oh, yes, I not only heard it, but also saw the pro- 
 cession, and very nearly lost the boat.” 
 
 “I was told you were rather behind.” 
 
 tr 
 
 “ So much so, that you were upon the move.” 
 
 Miss Nightingale observed that although the Kululee 
 hospitals were so well situated, it was reported by medical 
 men that they were very unhealthy, more especially the 
 lower one. 
 
 “ So I hear. Mademoiselle ; but my opinion is, that it 
 is owing to defective drainage. They were making 
 fresh ventilators in the wards of the lower one yesterday, 
 which will be a very great improvement. Miss Stanley 
 is gone ?” 
 
 “ Yes,” said Miss Nightingale; “ she has been very 
 unwell for some time.” 
 
 "We then passed before the Godfrey Tower, proudly 
 standing on its rocky shore, at the base of which 
 myriads of tombstones stagger about in pompous disorder, 
 under the shady wings of multitudes of dark cypress- 
 trees, the solemn guardians of this land of repose. Then 
 we came to the Sweet Waters of Asia, where thousands 
 of Turks and Turkish ladies resort on their days of 
 festival. We next passed Therapia, where all the foreign 
 ambassadors reside in summer; and I exchanged a few 
 words with Miss Nightingale respecting the Naval 
 Hospital there. Buyukdere, the Brighton of Constanti- 
 nople, came next; and the large marble palace on our 
 right, built, but never finished, by Ibrahim Pacha, and 
 that of the Sultan Yalide, the Giant’s Mountain. Ten 
 minutes after, we entered the Euxine or Black Sea, full 
 sail, with a fair wind and fine weather. 
 
 The Oriental coast had partly disappeared, and every 
 one was anxious to inspect his fellow-passengers, and find 
 out whether he had any friends on board. The vessel 
 was crammed with military men and Government officials, 
 besides about six hundred troops. Having the pleasure 
 of knowing many of the officers, a general conversation 
 relating to the war soon commenced. Miss Nightingale 
 
THE SOLDIER AND THE NURSE. 
 
 151 
 
 had retired, with several of her Sisters, to their apart- 
 ment, and very few persons were aware of the fact of her 
 being on board, and they were all very anxious to see her • 
 but evening came on, and we were not again favoured 
 with her presence that day. The next day being Sunday, 
 Miss Nightingale and myself, accompanied by the 
 captain, went round the lower deck to visit the soldiers, 
 who were busily employed making their pudding. 
 Having questioned them upon their method of cooking, 
 and visited the cook-house, I at once perceived what 
 facilities were offered to me for making an immense 
 amelioration in the present system of naval cookery, 
 especially in the method of cooking salt meat, &c. (See 
 naval recipes in Addenda.) I took the opportunity of 
 giving them a few hints. Miss Nightingale heard that 
 there were some invalids on board, and she asked to see 
 them. One poor fellow, who had been suffering from an 
 attack of fever since our departure, refused to take his 
 medicine. Miss Nightingale asked the reason of his 
 objection. He replied, “ Because I took some once, and 
 it made me sick ; and I haven’t liked physic ever since.” 
 
 We could not help laughing at his simple remark. 
 Miss Nightingale said, “But if I give it you myself, 
 you will take it, wont you ?” 
 
 The soldier, looking very hard at her, replied, “Well, 
 sure enough, ma’am, it will make me sick just the same.” 
 For all that he took the medicine, and seemed to feel 
 very grateful. None but an eye-witness or a disinte- 
 rested observer can judge of the effect produced by a 
 female’s attention to the sick soldier. Far from home, 
 he seems to hear the voice of her who nursed him in 
 childhood — a mother or sister. He will listen to and 
 receive advice, finding sudden relief from the cheering 
 accents of a woman’s lips, while he would scarcely take the 
 slightest notice of the kindest orderly’s attentions. The 
 man was not aware that it was Miss Nightingale. A 
 woman’s friendly voice had spoken to his heart, and he 
 felt more composed. 
 
 The sun darted his rays almost perpendicularly upon the 
 deck of the beautiful ship, the Robert Lowe ) which glided 
 
152 
 
 AN IMPRESSIVE CEREMONY. 
 
 rather than floated over that inconstant ocean — the 
 whimsical Mother Black Sea, called in French “ La Mere 
 Noire,” who safely bore her children upon her tranquil 
 bosom in the morning, and at night rocked the cradle 
 with such furious love, that she changed the smile of 
 comfort to sickness and tears in the evening. The 
 sails were furled, and the awning was now stretched 
 amidships. About twelve o’clock all the soldiers, under 
 command of Major Campbell, about six hundred in 
 number, met upon deck, and divine service was read by 
 the Major himself. Miss Nightingale, Mr. Bracebridge, 
 myself, and all the officers on board, were present. 
 Nothing recurs more vividly to my recollection than the 
 impression made upon my mind by that religious cere- 
 mony, performed so solemnly, between heaven and 
 the ocean. It appeared as though all were impressed 
 with the sacred mission they were called upon to fulfil, 
 and that every brave fellow present was saying his last 
 prayer, and preparing himself in case of emergency, 
 should it be his fate to succumb on the field of battle in 
 the defence of his country, to appear with a free and pure 
 conscience before his Creator, in whose hands alone are 
 the issues of life and death. Many of those poor fellows 
 afterwards paid that tribute to their country. Such are 
 • the chances of war. This ceremony, though not performed 
 by a clergyman, had such an effect upon my mind, that 
 I shall never forget it. 
 
 The remainder of the afternoon was passed on deck, 
 and as it was a day of rest and delightful weather, we 
 were favoured with the company of the ladies, including 
 that of Miss Nightingale. 
 
 Although I had frequently conversed with Miss 
 Nightingale upon business transactions, this was the first 
 and best opportunity I had of appreciating her amiable 
 character and interesting powers of conversation. For 
 more than an hour I talked with her, upon the deck 
 of the good ship Robert Lowe . The subject was her duty, 
 not of what she had already done, but of what she was 
 about to do. She gave me good advice as to the best way 
 for me to proceed in my new undertaking. “ Monsieur 
 
PLANS FOR THE FUTURE. 
 
 153 
 
 Soyer,” she said, "you will find everything very different 
 in the Crimea to what it was at Scutari, though you 
 had there a great many difficulties, the distance from 
 supplies being so much greater.” We then arranged 
 that as soon as we were a little organized, our first visit 
 should be to the General Hospital and the Sanatorium, 
 next to the General Camp Hospital before Balaklava. 
 The first thing Miss Nightingale did after our arrival 
 was to write to the commander-in-chief. Lord Raglan, 
 announcing* it. I remarked that I had an official letter 
 to his lordship from the War Department. 
 
 " I am aware of that, Monsieur Soyer, and that you and 
 Mr. Bracebridge should go to head-quarters together the 
 day we arrive ; but it is important his lordship should be 
 immediately acquainted by letter of our arrival.” 
 
 "Well, Mademoiselle,” said I, "you have been in the 
 military service longer than I have, and I am not sur- 
 prised at your being better acquainted with the rules of 
 war than myself.” Miss Nightingale smiled kindly at 
 the remark. 
 
 Having had the honour and the opportunity of seeing 
 Miss Nightingale almost daily for above a year, my 
 readers will no doubt be pleased, and feel interested, by 
 my giving a short description of this estimable lady, 
 whose fame in this war has been almost universal. 
 
 She is rather high in stature, fair in complexion, and 
 slim in person; her hair is brown, and is worn quite 
 plain; her physiognomy is most pleasing; her eyes, of a 
 bluish tint, speak volumes, and are always sparkling 
 with intelligence ; her mouth is small and well formed, 
 while her lips act in unison, and make known the im- 
 pression of her heart — one seems the reflex of the other. 
 Her visage, as regards expression, is very remarkable, and 
 one can almost anticipate by her countenance what she 
 is about to say : alternately, with matters of the most 
 grave import, a gentle smile passes radiantly over her 
 countenance, thus proving her evenness of temper ; at 
 other times, when wit or a pleasantry prevails, the 
 heroine is lost in the happy, good-natured smile which 
 pervades her face, and you recognise only the charming 
 
154 
 
 MISS NIGHTINGALE. 
 
 woman. Her dress is generally of a greyish or black 
 tint ; she wears a simple white cap, and often a rough 
 apron. In a word, her whole appearance is religiously 
 simple and unsophisticated. In conversation no member 
 of the fair sex can be more amiable and gentle than Miss 
 Nightingale. Removed from her arduous and cavalier-like 
 duties, which require the nerve of a Hercules, — and she 
 possesses it when required, — she is Rachel on the stage 
 in both tragedy and comedy. 
 
 During the voyage Miss Nightingale conversed with 
 the captain. Major Campbell, and one or two more gentle- 
 men on board. Dinner-time arrived — four bells apprized 
 us of the fact — the deck was soon cleared, and the 
 table surrounded. The pieces de resistance were attacked 
 on all sides. The last decent piece of roast beef we 
 were to see or partake of for some time was that day 
 before us. Miss Nightingale and the Sisters of Mercy 
 dined in their cabin. The conversation was so very lively, 
 that one might have fancied that we were going on a 
 pleasure excursion instead of the solemn pilgrimage 
 from whence so many were never to return. All bore 
 testimony to the good fare provided by the captain, 
 and exquisite pale sherry flowed in the glasses, in 
 honour first of her Majesty, then Miss Nightingale, next 
 the ladies, and last, not least, the army and navy. Some 
 good old port, with a fine crust, properly decanted with- 
 out shaking, was then introduced, with the inseparable 
 and justly-famed Stilton cheese and fresh plain salad. 
 
 This sudden change of countenance in the happy homely 
 groups, who only a few minutes before were as grave as 
 grave — in fact, morally and properly grave, exchanging 
 peaceably word for word while upon deck, cannot be 
 attributed to the walk down, nor to the temperature of 
 the room, or even the charming architectural paintings 
 upon glass which adorned the chief cabin of the Robert 
 Lowe , nor the laying out of the table, “which was 
 perfect.” No, not at all. It was the dinner — yes, the 
 dinner ! — which made me heartily second the opinion of 
 my illustrious compatriot, Brillat Savarin, when he justly 
 remarks in one of his immortal aphorisms, that if there 
 
P. M. AND THE LOOKING-GLASS. 
 
 155 
 
 is one hour spent more pleasantly than another in the 
 course of the day, that one is the first hour at the dinner 
 table. Though he intends his remark for epicures, it can 
 easily be applied to all classes of society, according to the 
 difference of time each man can afford from his occupa- 
 tions or peculiar habits. But out of this reunion of 
 hilarity I will here give an anecdote which will probably 
 amuse, if not interest, the reader. 
 
 P. M. AND THE LOOKING-GLASS. 
 
 On the eve of my departure from Scutari I fell in with 
 a travelling gentleman named Peter Morrison, a per- 
 sonage of no small importance in his own estimation, 
 who was very desirous of accompanying me through 
 my Crimean campaign, and of making himself useful to 
 me should his services be required. Remuneration was 
 to him a secondary consideration. According to himself, 
 “ moving accidents by flood and field, and peril in the 
 imminent deadly breach,” excited his martial ardour, and 
 these had no terrors for him — while he was far removed 
 from their sphere of action. He afterwards gave us to 
 understand that he was courting a wealthy lady, who, 
 being decidedly of opinion that 
 
 None but the brave deserve the fair, 
 
 had declared that none should wed her who had not both 
 “fought and bled for his country.” P. M., as I shall 
 designate this redoubtable hero, needed some such 
 stimulus to risk his life in his country’s cause, as the 
 sequel will show ; for he preferred, with due regard to 
 his complexion, albeit none of the fairest, the shelter 
 of the lays used in my kitchen to any laurels he might 
 reap on the field of Mars, as, when in front of the 
 enemy, his courage, like that of Bob Acres, “ oozed out 
 at his fingers’ ends.” But to our anecdote. 
 
 During a gale a few weeks before we went on board, 
 a looking-glass had been broken in the cabin, the steward, 
 as the ship made a heavy lurch, having sent his head 
 through it while carrying a dish to the table. Probably 
 the glass was not set flat in the frame, as his head had 
 
156 
 
 MUTINY ON BOARD. 
 
 made a perfect star of a hundred jets. The circular hole 
 looked just as if a shot had passed through it. Three 
 small hoards were fixed across to keep it together. 
 
 Whilst at dinner, P. M., who was sitting next me, 
 inquired how the glass had been broken. 
 
 “ Upon my word,” said I, “ I do not know ; but one 
 of the mates says it was done by a round shot. (This the 
 mate had said in joke.) The captain, who was very jocular, 
 perceiving P. M. was rather uneasy at the information, 
 merely replied, “Ah, and I had a very narrow escape 
 on the occasion. I was sitting at the head of the table 
 at the time, nearly opposite the spot.” 
 
 P. M. exclaimed, in great trepidation, “ What do you 
 say, captain? — it was a cannon-ball which broke the 
 glass ?” 
 
 “ I did not say so,” replied the captain, “ but such, 
 unfortunately, is the case.” 
 
 “Well,” said P. M., “I do not like the job I have 
 undertaken. You don't mean to say our lives will be 
 endangered at Balaklava ?” 
 
 “Oh dear, no; not in the least, except they fire upon us.” 
 “I tell you what it is, I shall not stand it; for I 
 bargained for nothing of the kind.” 
 
 “ At any rate,” said I, looking at the captain, who 
 was laughing in his sleeve, “ if you are killed by a 
 shot or shell, or die by illness, all your former bargains 
 will be of no avail, and off you must go.” 
 
 “ Had I been aware of that, I certainly should never 
 have left Scutari.” 
 
 The next morning we heard that some of the men hav- 
 ing raised a kind of mutiny or fight on board, had been 
 imprisoned. Being anxious to see a prison on board a 
 ship, I proceeded with Major Campbell to visit them. 
 The prison was upon deck, in the open air, and instead 
 of being in chains, the prisoners were made fast with 
 ropes to the deck. Two of them seemed in great trouble, 
 having entirely lost their senses the night before. They 
 were trying to recollect and inform the commander how 
 the quarrel began, when another, who imagined he had 
 completely recovered, stated the fact thus : “ General, if 
 
THE RUSSIAN COAST. 
 
 157 
 
 you will allow me, I will tell you the truth, the whole 
 truth, and nothing but the truth ; and instead of kissing 
 the good book, which I have not got by me, but which 
 I had when I paid my last visit to his Majesty the Lord 
 Mayor of London, let me kiss your glove instead.” 
 
 “We want no nonsense here; so look sharp, and tell 
 us what it was all about.” 
 
 “ Yes, Colonel, I will, as far as I know. You see, J arvis, 
 who is a relation of Martin’s wife, called her ugly names, 
 and said she wasn’t proper. Upon that we fought — Joe 
 fought — I fought — till we couldn’t fight any longer, and 
 being dark we found it very troublesome, as we didn’t 
 know whom we might be hitting. I do not know 
 who said she wasn’t proper — I don’t know the wench — 
 she might be proper, after all, for what I know — that’s 
 all.” 
 
 “ Corporal,” said the Major, “ don’t let those men land 
 till I see you.” 
 
 By this time the Russian coast was in view. Breakfast 
 was just over, and everybody was on deck — the weather 
 being beautiful. Miss Nightingale, Mr. Bracebridge, and 
 myself, with telescopes, were looking at the convent and 
 the monastery, still inhabited by Russian monks. The first 
 reports of the cannon of Sebastopol were here faintly heard 
 — the wind being favourable, as the captain informed 
 us. On the right hand, on a lofty high peaked mountain, 
 the Russian picket was plainly seen mounting guard. 
 An hour after we were in the Bay of Balaklava, in view 
 of the Genoese Tower, planted on a high rock, at the 
 elevation of about two hundred feet above the level 
 of the sea, at the spur of a range of mountains ex- 
 tending along the shore. A few topmasts are all that 
 can be seen on entering the gorge ; and no one can 
 imagine, though so near, that such a harbour is in 
 existence as the one we were approaching. The signal 
 having been given by hoisting the flag on the top of the 
 Genoese Tower, we entered the far-famed, and now 
 universally known, grand, though small. Harbour of 
 Balaklava, the entrance to which seems impracticable. 
 We then slowly threaded our way through that forest of 
 
15S 
 
 ANCHORED AT LAST. 
 
 masts and huge vessels piled and packed so close together 
 in the little harbour. The principal vessels at that time 
 lying there were, — the Himalaya , Jura, JEtna, Leander, 
 Star of the South, London, Baraguay d y Hilliers, &c. It is 
 impossible to describe the animation of the scene better 
 than by comparing it to the emigration of a large colony 
 of ants from their habitation to a new quarter. Many 
 people were aware that Miss Nightingale ivas coming 
 that day in the Robert Loive , and the decks of all the large 
 vessels at anchor were crowded with curious spectators, 
 in expectation of seeing that lady, of whose devotion to 
 the sick and wounded they had heard so much. 
 
 Cossack Bay. 
 
 We had no sooner entered the harbour than, to P. 
 M/s horror, he saw painted on the rock in large letters — 
 “ Cossack Bay.” At this moment, five or six ill-looking 
 Bashi Bazouks, and as many Turks, with their large 
 turbans, yathagans, kresses, daggers, firelocks, &e., were 
 descending the mountain to the rock upon which the 
 fatal name was written, and immediately caused P. M. 
 to inquire if they were enemies. I replied that I thought 
 they were, being upon Cossack Bay. 
 
 “X say, Monsieur Soyer,” said P. M., “this is beyond 
 a joke; for if those ugly fellows choose to fire upon us, they 
 can do so as easy as possible.” 
 
 “ No doubt they can,” said I. 
 
 “ I shall not give them a chance,” cried P. M., and 
 off he bolted. 
 
 The Robert Loive had anchored, and was moored in her 
 new berth on the right-hand side of the harbour, nearly 
 opposite the commandants house. Although the opera- 
 tion of getting in had taken nearly two hours, so 
 interesting was the sight that no one had thought of 
 making preparations to leave the vessel, which is gene- 
 rally the first thing thought of. Miss Nightingale pointed 
 out to me the hospital called the “ Sanatorium,” situated 
 on the top of the hill, near the Genoese heights and forti- 
 fications. Turning round, she next pointed to a row of 
 
COSSACK BAY. 
 
 159 
 
 white buildings, which constituted the General Hospital, 
 which she said she should like to visit that day if time 
 allowed. Mr. Bracebridge came and informed us that the 
 captain would be happy for us to stay on board as long 
 as he remained in harbour, which might be a few days — 
 or till we found a ship to suit us. As it was impossible to 
 procure either a house, hut, or even a tent, in Balaklava, 
 we of course accepted the offer. The day was drawing 
 to a close, and, as we were rather fatigued, we postponed 
 our visit to the hospital till the next morning. 
 
160 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 COMMENCEMENT OF MY CAMPAIGN IN THE CRIMEA. 
 
 Visitors to Miss Nightingale — The floating drawing-room — Terrible 
 cannonade — A sortie — Second series of visitors — Young Thomas, 
 the drummer-boy — His devotion to Miss Nightingale — Balaklava 
 mud — General Hospital — The Sanatorium — Rugged ascent — 
 Extensive view — Dr. Henderson — Storm of the 14th of Novem- 
 ber described by an eye-witness — Tour round the hospital — 
 An officer patient — Return to the Robert Rowe — Off to the camp 
 — A party of equestrians — A perfect Babel — Small hospital at 
 Kadikoi — Splendid array of camps — A regimental hospital — 
 Lord Raglan’s house — Colonel Steele — General Hospital before 
 Sebastopol — “ The good lady of Scutari” — An ovation — A peep 
 at Sebastopol — The Three-mortar Battery — P. M. dodging a shell 
 — A striking scene — Losing the way — The Zouaves — Various 
 adventures — A casualty — Once more on board. 
 
 No sooner was it known that Miss Nightingale had 
 arrived^ than hosts of visitors poured in from all direc- 
 tions; amongst whom were Commissary Fildei’; Mr. 
 Henderson; Chief Doctor at the Balaklava Hospital; the 
 Clergyman; Doctor Sutherland; Mr. Anderson; &c.; &c., 
 which caused her to hold a kind of floating drawing- 
 room. Mr. Bracebridge was also busily engaged; so I 
 did not see him again till dinner-time. I despatched the 
 four soldier cooks I had instructed and brought with me 
 to the Sanatorium; as the troops were landing; and they 
 were required on shore. Having settled my future plan 
 of operations with my secretary; and closed our post for 
 the next day; I was quite at liberty to accompany Miss 
 Nightingale in the morning on her visit to the various 
 hospitals; as we had previously decided. 
 
 The same evening; about nine; a terrible cannonade was 
 heard from the besieged city; which produced more effect 
 upon us than upon the initiated. The report of the fusillade 
 was also plainly heard. This proved to be a sortie; which it 
 
THOMAS^ THE DRUMMER-BOY. 
 
 1G1 
 
 appeared often happened; and produced no effect upon the 
 inhabitants. Such; however; was not the case with P. M., 
 though I tried to persuade him that there was no danger; 
 “except/* said I; “in case the enemy should prove 
 victorious; and retake Balaklava; which might happen 
 through some ruse de guerre unknown to the allied 
 army.” “Well;” said P. M.; “but I did not bargain 
 for that; and I assure you I very much regret having 
 come at all. Oh, give me London and Red Lion 
 Square before any of your seats of war, for X see no 
 fun in glory.” 
 
 “Now we are in for it;” X said; “we must go bravely 
 through it. Screw your courage to the sticking point; 
 and Wigham Ward for ever !” 
 
 r Xdie next morning; at seven; everybody was up and 
 busily engaged; when Mr. Bracebridge came and told 
 me that Miss Nightingale had been up, writing since 
 daybreak; and would be ready immediately after breakfast. 
 About eight o’clock; in poured a second series of visitors. 
 Among the earliest arrivals were Sir J. Macneil and 
 Captain Tulloch ; the former gentleman X had the 
 pleasure of knowing at the Reform Club a few years 
 back. We then had a short conversation touching 
 the soldiers’ food; and cooking in general. Colonel 
 Harding; Admiral Boxer; Commissary Filder; &c.; came 
 next. Miss Nightingale had given notice that she must 
 be at the hospital by half-past ten; and was then upon 
 deck ready to start. I took the opportunity of impress- 
 ing upon her the necessity of leaving the ship at once; 
 or the day would pass without our doing anything. We 
 embarked in a small boat and went on shore; followed by 
 young Thomas; the drummer-boy; whom X must intro- 
 duce to my readers as a little wonder ; and; although 
 he had not taken time to grow to manhood; he did 
 not like to be called a boy. Although but twelve 
 years old; he always called himself Miss Nightingale’s 
 and Mr. Bracebridge’s man. He was a regular enfant 
 de troupe, full of activity; wit; intelligence; and glee. He 
 had quitted his instruments and sticks, as he called them, 
 to devote his civil and military career to Miss Night in- 
 
162 
 
 THE GENEEAL HOSPITAL. 
 
 gale, that lady having claimed his services. To her he 
 was as devoted as an aide-de-camp to his general. Before 
 the enemy could have approached his adored mistress, 
 the drummer hoy, would have been cut lo pieces. This he 
 told me himself at a later period, when a reportwas in cir- 
 culation that the Russians were likely to attack Balaklava 
 by the Karnara side. Miss Nightingale’s hut being the 
 nearest that way on the Genoese heights, would certainly 
 have been attacked first. 
 
 Though the weather was fine overhead, there was 
 about ten inches of mud in the unpaved and uneven 
 streets of Balaklava, which caused us to be half-an-hour 
 going a distance that might, under ordinary circum- 
 stances, have been accomplished in ten minutes. On 
 our arrival at the General Hospital, we were received by 
 Miss Wear, the matron of the hospital, “ under Miss 
 Nightingale.” Miss Nightingale requested me to try and 
 find Doctor Henderson, who unluckily, as we thought 
 through a mistake, was waiting for us at the Sanatorium on 
 the Genoese heights. In his absence. Miss Wear and the 
 medical superintendent showed us over the wards, which 
 were crammed full of sick and wounded. We then visited 
 the general kitchen, which, though rather short of cooking 
 utensils and accommodation, was kept tolerably clean. 
 A civilian cook was engaged making rather good soup, but 
 it had boiled too fast. At all events, it was a satisfaction 
 to me to find some one willing to improve, as he observed. 
 Promising to send him my receipts and have his kitchen 
 comfortably arranged, and to supply him with a few tin 
 utensils, we left him. 
 
 We next went to the extra-diet kitchen, which was 
 anything but a comfortable one, though Mrs. Davis, 
 who made the extra diets, managed pretty well, by 
 dint of perseverance and a deal of trouble. She was 
 compelled to use preserved soups, which are not whole- 
 some for delicate or weak stomachs, and are, moreover, 
 generally served up too strong, as scarcely any one who 
 uses them will take the trouble to read the instructions 
 pasted upon each case, and add the proper quantity of 
 water required. These are at all times better adapted 
 
PROCEED TO THE SANATORIUM. 
 
 163 
 
 for persons in health than for the sick, always ex- 
 cepting the essence of beef (see Hospital Diets), which, 
 when properly seasoned according to my receipt, is really 
 very good. I made a list of what apparatus and kitchen 
 utensils were required, and then we left Miss Davis, 
 much pleased with Miss Nightingale’s kind remarks, my 
 approbation of her services, and, above all, very proud of 
 having, two days before, been visited and highly compli- 
 mented by Lady Stratford de Redcliffe and the other 
 ladies. Lord Stratford and family had passed us at sea 
 the day before, on their return to Constantinople, on board 
 the Caracloc ; a circumstance I much regretted, as I had 
 anticipated the pleasure of accompanying Lord and Lady 
 de Redcliffe to the various camp and hospital kitchens. 
 We then left the General Hospital, and ascended to 
 the Sanatorium by a narrow and almost perpendicular 
 road cut out of the rock; in consequence of the ups 
 and downs, it took us full three-quarters of an hour 
 to accomplish the distance, and very uncomfortably 
 too, the roads being so dirty. The view during the 
 ascent is transcendantly beautiful and refreshing — the 
 sight of the harbour beneath filled with ships, the chain 
 of rocky mountains, distant view of the Guards’ camp, 
 the village of Kadikoi, its Greek church, the Zouave camp, 
 and the traffic of thousands below, busily running to and 
 fro, formed a naval and military tableau which well 
 repaid us for our trouble. On reaching the verge of the 
 hill facing the grand tower, which proudly bore the 
 British flagstaff. Miss Nightingale and myself made an 
 involuntary halt to admire this splendid view. 
 
 “Did you ever see anything more picturesque than 
 this, Mademoiselle? And were it not for the everlasting 
 report of the cannon, could you not believe you were in 
 the Land of Promise, redolent with the green bloom of 
 nature, which almost covers those rocky mountains ? Turn 
 your eyes on that side towards the busy harbour — can 
 you not imagine you are looking at Landseer’s celebrated 
 pictures on one side of Peace and the other side of 
 War?” 
 
 Miss Nightingale replied, “I had heard Balaldavawas 
 
 m 2 
 
164 
 
 A HEALTHY SITE. 
 
 a very pretty place, but I did not expect to find anything 
 so beautiful.” 
 
 “ I believe, Mademoiselle, that gentleman coming down 
 from the Sanatorium is Dr. Henderson? I recollect 
 having seen him inquiring after you last evening.” 
 
 “ So it is. Monsieur Soyer ; I suppose he has waited 
 so long for us, that he is coming back to the General 
 Hospital.” 
 
 “ Thomas,” said I to the boy, “ run and tell that 
 gentleman Miss Nightingale is coming, or he may take 
 another road, and miss us.” A few minutes after, we 
 met the doctor, who very much regretted not having 
 met us at the General Hospital, according to promise. 
 Several important cases sent from the trenches (among 
 which was the amputation of an arm) had delayed him. 
 
 “ I suppose, doctor, you use chloroform in all cases of 
 amputation ?” 
 
 “ Yes, we do, Monsieur Soyer, and with very great 
 success, not having lost a single patient since its appli- 
 cation.” 
 
 By this time we had arrived at the hospital, which is 
 composed of immense rows of huts, erected on the crest 
 of the lofty mountain facing the sea, commanding a 
 beautiful view of the bay. Miss Nightingale observed 
 that no doubt the site was a healthy one, but that it 
 would be very hot in summer and equally cold in winter.” 
 
 “Well,” said the doctor, “we thought of that our- 
 selves ; but really Balaklava is so mountainous, that for 
 the life of us, we could not pitch upon any other spot. 
 However, the least breeze from the sea will be felt in 
 summer, and in winter we must contrive to screen it 
 somehow. Should we have another storm like that of 
 the 14th of last November, we should be blown away.” 
 
 One of the men, hearing the storm mentioned, told me 
 that he had witnessed it from beginning to end. I then 
 asked him a few particulars, and he related the circum- 
 stance as follows, while Dr. Henderson and Miss 
 Nightingale were walking among the ruins, talking over 
 business matters. 
 
 “ W ould you believe it, sir — the furious waves seemed to 
 
STORM OF THE 14TH OF NOVEMBER. 
 
 165 
 
 fly right over the tower, and the shipping in the hay was 
 almost invisible for a long time. In fact, we thought that 
 all the vessels were lost ; from the mass of water blown 
 into the air, we took it to be the level of the sea or the 
 beginning of a second deluge.” Pointing with his 
 hand towards the bay, “That is the spot where the 
 Prince was lost, and further on you see the place where 
 the Retribution was at anchor, with the Duke of Cam- 
 bridge on board. The storm lasted above ten hours. We 
 were quite wet in the tower, and could not get out. 
 Had we done so, we should probably have been blown 
 down the hill or into the sea. In the ravine above sixty 
 large poplar trees were torn up by the roots by one gust 
 of wind.” 
 
 “ How was it, in the first place, that you came to be 
 there ?” 
 
 “ Why, you see, sir, we were stationed there to manage 
 the signals for ships to enter the harbour, and I happened 
 to be on duty at the time.” 
 
 “ It must have been a fearful sight,” said I. 
 
 “ Sight, sir ! — there was nothing to be seen for many 
 hours ; and it was only towards night that it cleared up 
 a little, and then we could see the masts of the shipping 
 in the harbour, rolling about like a forest under the 
 influence of the shock of an earthquake. The next day, 
 I was put on fatigue duty, to bury the corpses washed 
 on shore from the wreck of the Prince , and a dreadful 
 job it was, I assure you, sir.” 
 
 “ Where were they buried ?” 
 
 “Over the way, on the edge of Leander Bay. You 
 may see the spot from this,” pointing it out. “ There 
 are above twenty there, to my knowledge; but some 
 were never found.” Thanking him for his infor- 
 mation, I invited him to come and see me when my 
 kitchens were open, and get a basin of good soup when- 
 ever he pleased. I then rejoined the doctor and Miss 
 Nightingale, who were returning to the hospital. 
 
 We visited the various wards, each of which contained 
 about thirty patients. Miss Nightingale had a kind 
 word for all, and many a conversation with those who 
 
166 
 
 TRUE HEROISM. 
 
 had been severely wounded. Having seen five or six of 
 the wards, I begged Miss Nightingale to excuse my 
 accompanying her through the others ; as I wished, in 
 order to lose no time, to go and visit the kitchens, and set 
 my men to work, which plan she much approved of, 
 saying that when she had seen the hospitals, she should 
 like to visit the kitchens also. As I was going out, I 
 met Mr. Bracebridge on horseback, coming to meet us. 
 We went to the kitchens, which we found were built of 
 mud, exposed to the open air, unroofed, and burning 
 much fuel. I immediately fixed upon a spot to build a 
 kitchen, and sketched a plan, which I submitted to the 
 doctor and Miss Nightingale, who had then joined us. 
 We also visited those mud mounts called cook-houses, 
 looked over the provision stores, and departed. Miss 
 Nightingale, Dr. Henderson, and myself, returned 
 together by the same road. Miss Nightingale intending 
 to visit an officer patient who was at the doctor’s house. 
 Mr. Bracebridge being on horseback, was compelled to 
 take another road. On reaching the doctor’s house. 
 Miss Nightingale was introduced to the patient, who 
 was suffering from a very severe attack of typhus fever. 
 I stayed in the front room, making my sketch for the 
 new hospital kitchens. At length Miss Nightingale 
 retired, after giving words of consolation to the patient, 
 and promising the doctor to send a nurse who would set 
 him to rights. 
 
 As we were returning to the vessel, I could not help 
 remarking that Miss Nightingale seemed much fatigued ; 
 upon which she replied, “ I do feel rather tired, those roads 
 are so bad.” I inquired about the patient she had visited. 
 
 “The poor young man,” said she, “is very ill. I 
 very much fear for his life.” She then stated what a bad 
 attack of fever it was. Upon this, I remarked, that it 
 was very imprudent of her to remain so long near him. 
 
 “ Oh, Monsieur Soyer, I am used to that.” 
 
 “ Very true, Mademoiselle, but then it is in large airy 
 wards, and not in small rooms, like the one you have just 
 left.” 
 
 “ I must say that I have been very fortunate through 
 
AN EXPEDITION TO HEAD-QUARTERS. 
 
 167 
 
 my Scutari campaign, and I hope to be as fortunate in 
 the Crimea.” 
 
 “ I hope so too, but would recommend you to be careful 
 of your health, as I am sure the army cannot spare you.” 
 
 By this time we were near the Robert Lowe — a boat 
 was ready to take us on board, and Mr. Bracebridge was 
 anxiously waiting our arrival, to inform Miss Nightingale 
 that Lord Raglan had been on board, and also to the 
 General Hospital, in order to see her, and was very much 
 disappointed at not having had that pleasure. It was 
 arranged that we should visit the camp next day, and that 
 I should go and deliver my official letter, and present my 
 humble duty to Lord Raglan. Miss Nightingale decided 
 upon taking that opportunity of returning his lordship’s 
 visit. Doctor Sutherland and Mr. Anderson, of the 
 Sanitary Commission, who happened to be on board, 
 arranged about the horses, and the time of our departure 
 the next morning. 
 
 At nine, we were all on shore and mounted. There 
 were about eight of us ready to escort our heroine to the 
 seat of war. Miss Nightingale was attired simply in a 
 genteel amazone, or riding-habit, and had quite a martial 
 air. She was mounted upon a very pretty mare, of a golden 
 eolour, which, by its gambols and caracoling, seemed proud 
 to carry its noble charge. The weather was very fine. Our 
 cavalcade produced an extraordinary effect upon the motley 
 crowd of all nations assembled at Balaklava, who were 
 astonished at seeing a lady so well escorted. It was not 
 so, however, with those who knew who the lady was. 
 
 On the road to head-quarters, we met several officers 
 whom I had the pleasure of knowing in England. All 
 made inquiries respecting the lady in our party. As I 
 knew that Miss Nightingale wished to preserve her 
 incognito as much as possible, and especially in the camp, 
 I referred them to Mr. Bracebridge. At that time the 
 number of the fair sex in the Crimea numbered four, 
 always excepting the Sisters of Mercy, who were never 
 seen out. 
 
 It took us about half-an-hour to go from the Col of 
 Balaklava to Kadikoi (about a mile distant), having to 
 
1G8 
 
 A MODERN BABEL. 
 
 fight our way through a dense crowd of Greeks, Arme- 
 nians, Jews, Maltese, &c. — hundreds of mules, horses, 
 donkeys, artillery waggons, cannon, shot and shell, oxen 
 and horses kicking each other, waggons upset in deep 
 mud-holes, infantry and cavalry passing and repassing. 
 The road was execrable, and not nearly wide enough for 
 the immense amount of traffic. Amidst this Babel of 
 tongues and deafening noise, we were obliged to speak at 
 the top of our voices in order to make ourselves heard. 
 Our horses, by way of enjoying the fun, kept prancing 
 and kicking in all directions, particularly our fair lady^s 
 palfrey, which could not be kept quiet. Many females 
 would have felt very nervous in such a position; but 
 Miss Nightingale appeared to rise above such weakness, 
 and even, on the contrary, to take considerable interest 
 in this her first introduction to the turmoils of war. We 
 at length emerged from the crowd, without having sus- 
 tained much damage. One of our cavaliers had part of 
 his mackintosh carried away by a log of wood that 
 projected from the back of a mule, and P. M. lost a 
 strap, which nearly unseated him. His mule kept kicking 
 and prancing about, which, one is constrained to confess, 
 is not over pleasant, especially in a crowd — and such a 
 crowd. As we were at last out of danger, we could not 
 help laughing at the misfortunes of our friends. Such 
 was our debut on the soil of the seat of war. 
 
 Our first visit was to the hospital at Kadikoi, in a 
 small Greek church at the end of the village. Upon 
 our arrival, we were informed that the doctor was not in, 
 so we promised to call again. We then galloped to the 
 top of a high hill on the left, on which we could not help 
 making a halt, as we were quite struck by the grandeur 
 and novelty of the scene. We could plainly distinguish 
 everything for five miles around us. The camps, with 
 their myriads of white tents, appeared like large beds 
 of mushrooms growing at random. The sound of 
 trumpets, the beating of drums, the roar of cannon from 
 Sebastopol, made a fearful noise, whilst military ma- 
 noeuvres, and sentries placed in every direction, gave a 
 most martial aspect to the landscape, backed by the bold 
 
LORD RAGLANDS HOUSE. 
 
 169 
 
 and rugged range of mountains by which Balaklava is 
 surrounded. 
 
 Having gazed for some time, highly delighted with 
 the scene, so novel to us, we proceeded on our journey. 
 As Miss Nightingale wished to see one of the small regi- 
 mental hospitals. Doctor Sutherland recommended us to 
 visit that of the 11th Hussars. We were received by the 
 doctor, who very kindly showed us over. Miss Nightin- 
 gale and myself inspected the kitchen, which, though far 
 from being comfortable or convenient, was, at all events, 
 very ingeniously contrived. Having made my notes, we 
 called at two other regiments, and afterwards proceeded 
 direct to head-quarters. Mr. Bracebridge and myself at 
 once rode to Lord Raglan’s house, the front of which was 
 crowded with staff officers and gentlemen on horseback. 
 On asking whether his lordship was within, we were 
 answered in the negative, and were informed that he 
 would probably not return before dinner-time. I then 
 inquired for Colonel Steele, his lordship’s secretary, for 
 whom I also had a letter. That gentleman received us 
 cordially, and having read Lord Panmure’s letter, pro- 
 mised to give me his utmost support. Mr. Bracebridge 
 stated he had come to thank Lord Raglan in Miss 
 Nightingale’s name, for his kind visit of the day before. 
 I next inquired when I could see Lord Raglan. Colonel 
 Steele replied, “When you like. Monsieur Soyer, but 
 for a day or two he will be very much engaged, as he is 
 preparing for the reception of the Sardinian army, which 
 is shortly expected. Lord Raglan is aware of your arrival, 
 and I will give orders for anything you may require in 
 order to enable you to commence operations.” 
 
 “As I have a great deal to do at the Balaklava Hospital, 
 I shall commence operations there, and will call in a few 
 days to see the Commander-in-Chief.” 
 
 “ Come whenever you like. Monsieur Soyer ; Lord 
 Raglan will be glad to see you. He has often spoken of 
 you at the dinner-table.” 
 
 “ Really ! I am glad to hear that. I had the honour 
 of knowing his lordship many years ago.” 
 
 “So he was saying.” 
 
170 
 
 THE GOOD LADY OF SCUTARI.' 
 
 cc 
 
 
 After having conversed with several officers whom I 
 knew, I was about to retire, when Colonel Steele said 
 that he would write a note that afternoon to the Chief 
 Engineer, ordering him to send me some carpenters, and 
 give me all the assistance I might require. I thanked 
 the colonel, and retired. 
 
 Mr. Bracebridge had in the meantime joined Miss 
 Nightingale, and informed her that, owing to Lord 
 Baglan’s absence, he had not mentioned her intended 
 visit, but merely mentioned his own. Dr. Sutherland 
 then inquired if Doctor Hall was at home, and on being 
 told he was not, we started direct to the General Hospital 
 before Sebastopol, in anticipation of meeting him there. 
 He had, however, been and left. The chief doctor was 
 alscf absent on duty, as no previous appointment had been 
 made. We were shown round by the superintendent. 
 The hospital was quite full, having at the time about 
 four hundred sick and wounded. The place was in conse- 
 quence rather crowded, but, nevertheless, well ventilated, 
 and everything seemed in good order. Dr. Sutherland 
 made several remarks upon an improved system of venti- 
 lation. I went to see the kitchen, which I did not find 
 in a better state than the one at the Sanatorium. 
 
 A short time after, Mr. Bracebridge came and informed 
 me that Miss Nightingale wished to speak with me. 
 Having passed a close review, I was about returning to our 
 party, when I met Miss Nightingale coming towards this 
 gipsy cooking encampment, in which there was con- 
 siderably too much to do for so important an establishment. 
 We promised to call next day, or the one following, to see 
 Doctors Taylor and Mouatt, and retired through a long 
 row of huts. Some of the men had found out that it was 
 “the good lady of Scutari,” as they called her; for Miss 
 Nightingale was then but little known by name, it being 
 her first visit to the Crimea. I heard afterwards, that 
 some of them had been patients at the Scutari Hospital, 
 and had experienced the full benefit of that benevolent 
 lady’s kind care and attention. A great number were 
 waiting at the doors — sick and convalescent — and gave 
 her three hearty cheers as we passed, followed by three 
 
A HEAUTY OVATION. 
 
 171 
 
 times three. Miss Nightingale seemed much affected by 
 so unexpected a reception, and, being on horseback, could 
 only bow gracefully to them by way of returning thanks. 
 Her horse being very restless, in consequence of the shouts 
 of such a number of men, Mr. Anderson dismounted, and 
 taking Miss Nightingale's nag by the bridle, led it 
 gently along. 
 
 We then proceeded through the English and French 
 camps, which, for miles, surrounded the doomed Sebas- 
 topol. The scene, though more extensive, was not nearly 
 so picturesque as when beheld from the top of the hill at 
 Balaklava. The afternoon was then drawing on, and Dr. 
 Sutherland advised us to go home, as it was a very dif- 
 ficult matter for one to find the way in the dark through 
 the camp ; but Mr. Anderson proposed to have a peep at 
 Sebastopol. It was four o'clock, and they were firing 
 sharply on both sides. Miss Nightingale, to whom the 
 offer was made, immediately accepted it ; so we formed a 
 column, and, for the first time, fearlessly faced the enemy, 
 and prepared to go under fire. P. M. turned round to 
 me, saying quietly, but with great trepidation — 
 
 “ I say, Monsieur Soyer, of course you would not take 
 Miss Nightingale where there will be any danger." 
 
 We soon after reached the flag-staff at the head of the 
 Woronzoff Road, and the sentry informed us we must 
 dismount, as we were in danger, at the same time pointing 
 to the marks of a number of cannon balls and splinters 
 of shell, which, he said, they sent whenever they saw a 
 group of people, especially on horseback. He added that 
 they would send a shot or a shell in a moment. Fortu- 
 nately, P. M. did not hear this, or we should have lost 
 his agreeable company. I mentioned this to Miss Nightin- 
 gale and to Mr. Bracebridge, who both laughed heartily. 
 
 We then dismounted. The sentry begged of us to go 
 into a kind of redoubt, built of stone, where there was a 
 telescope. “ There," said he, “you will be in safety, and 
 have a good view of the town." 
 
 This was true enough ; the day being clear, and the 
 sun pouring its rays on the city, we could plainly discern 
 the large buildings, Greek temple, church, club-house. 
 
172 
 
 THE THREE-MORTAR BATTERY. 
 
 hospital, barracks, the harbour of Sebastopol, and the 
 fortifications — viz., the Malakoff, Redan, Quarantine, Fort 
 Constantine, and the Flagstaff batteries — and could see 
 every shot sent by the allied armies as well as by the enemy. 
 The bursting of shells could easily be distinguished. We 
 were about to retire, when Mr. Anderson proposed going 
 a couple of hundred yards further — to the Three-mortar 
 Battery. Miss Nightingale immediately seconded the 
 proposal, but the sentry strongly objected, saying it was 
 too dangerous ; that only a few days before those mortars 
 had poured a very heavy fire into the city, and that the 
 Russians kept a good look-out upon them. 
 
 “ Oh, never mind,” said Mr. Anderson ; “ I was there 
 two days ago, and they have no powder to waste upon a 
 few individuals.” 
 
 Although I was very anxious to get so far, and to go 
 with them, I could not help observing to Miss Nightin- 
 gale that there was a picket in the Woronzoff Road, to 
 indicate the limits, and it was very imprudent of her to 
 run such a risk for no purpose. I further remarked that, 
 should any accident happen to her, no one would pity, 
 but, on the contrary, blame her — that all the good she 
 had done would fall into oblivion, and she would scarcely 
 be regretted. 
 
 The sentry then repeated his caution, saying, “ Madam, 
 even where you stand you are in great danger ; some of 
 the shot reach more than half a mile beyond this.” Mr. 
 Bracebridge, though of my opinion, did not say much to 
 dissuade her. The sentry then said, “Well, madam, if 
 you do not fear risking your life, I cannot prevent your 
 going ; but remember that, if anything happens, I have 
 witnesses to prove that it was not through my neglect in 
 not informing you of the danger you incur by going to 
 the Three-mortar Battery.” 
 
 “ My good young man,” replied Miss Nightingale, in 
 French, “more dead and wounded have passed through my 
 hands than I hope you will ever see in the battle-field 
 during the whole of your military career ; believe me, I 
 have no fear of death.” She then started with Mr. Ander- 
 son, who was very impatient at so much time being lost. 
 
DODGING A SHELL. 
 
 173 
 
 Mr. Bracebridge and myself followed. P. M. was still in 
 the redoubt, ensconced behind a gabion, looking through 
 the telescope, when I suddenly called him. He came 
 running out, as I had taken him by surprise, and he 
 exclaimed, “ I say, where the deuce are you all going !” 
 
 “ Oh, not far — only to the second trench.” 
 
 “ But, my dear sir, there is a great deal of danger.” 
 Taking him by the arm, Mr. Bracebridge and myself 
 commenced talking upon indifferent topics, and so got 
 him to advance. As he saw Miss Nightingale before us, 
 he managed to raise courage enough to keep from running 
 away, while the cannonading and bursting of shells was 
 heard plainer, and could be seen much better. He again 
 said, “ Why should we go to the trenches ? This is 
 very rash to risk one’s life for nothing ; it is what I call 
 giving a chance away.” 
 
 To comfort him, I called Mr. Bracebridge and .Miss 
 Nightingale. “ P. M.,” said I, “ seems to fancy there 
 is some danger in the trenches, and I wish to impress 
 upon his mind that there is much less danger there than 
 where we are, when a shell came whistling over our 
 heads, and Mr. Anderson hearing it, cried out, “A 
 shell ! a shell !” upon which P. M. immediately caught 
 me by the shoulders with both hands, and placed 
 himself in a crouching position behind me, which made 
 us all laugh heartily at his expense, as the shell was not 
 directed anywhere near us. I have frequently laughed 
 since with Miss Nightingale at his idea that if the shell 
 had struck me, he would have been any safer than if he 
 had stood by himself. 
 
 At all events, we arrived in the Three-mortar Battery 
 without accident. It contained three large mortars, and 
 instead of being two hundred yards, as Mr. Anderson 
 had called the distance, was full half a mile from the 
 Plagstaff, going towards Sebastopol, and quite exposed 
 to fire, had they thought it worth while to play upon us. 
 We had, however, an excellent view of the besieged city, 
 such as very few amateurs can boast of having obtained. 
 Before leaving the battery, I begged Miss Nightingale, 
 as a favour, to give me her hand, which she did. I then 
 
174 
 
 SCENE FOR A PAINTER. 
 
 requested her to ascend the stone rampart next the 
 wooden gun carriage, and lastly, to sit upon the centre 
 mortar, to which requests she very gracefully and kindly 
 acceded. I then boldly exclaimed, “ Gentlemen, behold 
 this amiable lady sitting fearlessly upon that terrible 
 instrument of war ! behold the heroic daughter of Eng- 
 land — the soldier’s friend !” All present shouted, “ Bravo ! 
 bravo ! hurrah ! hurrah ! Long live the daughter of 
 England !” 
 
 As the cannonade increased instead of diminishing, 
 this gave a kind of martial note of approval to our solemn 
 and enthusiastic ceremony. 
 
 We then left the spot, again to risk our noble selves, 
 as I observed to our friend P. M. 
 
 “ Oh,” said he, “ I shall run.” 
 
 Upon this I observed, “ You may do as you like ; but 
 you will thereby incur more danger, as they will take 
 you for a deserter.” 
 
 “ Oh, that’s true again ; well, but you may say what 
 you like about bravery — let me tell you. Monsieur Soyer, 
 that I did not bargain for being brave, and I think the 
 sooner we get out of this the better. Only listen to the 
 roaring of the cannon.” 
 
 We all laughed heartily at his fears and wry faces. 
 Such were never before seen in the Crimea. At last we 
 regained the redoubt, quite safe and sound, which the 
 French corporal on duty attributed to their not thinking 
 it worth while to fire upon us, and partly to the presence 
 of a lady. He remarked that ladies often came to this 
 spot to get a view, and that he had never known the 
 enemy to fire while they were present. 
 
 “Well,” I replied, “we certainly cannot extol their 
 gallantry too highly. But can they distinguish persons 
 at this distance from their camp ?” 
 
 “ Of course they can, from their advanced batteries. 
 Persons coming this way can be seen plainly five minutes 
 before they reach this spot, unless they come by the 
 Woronzoff Road.” 
 
 The sun was by this- time fast sinking in the vast 
 ocean in front of Sebastopol, giving us to understand 
 
CONSOLATIONS OF TEAVEL. 
 
 175 
 
 that night was about to spread its gloomy wings over the 
 camp, and that in less than two hours it would envelope 
 us in its mvsterious darkness, as well as the besieged and 
 their assailants. Alas ! how many of those brave fellows 
 who saw that sun set never beheld it rise again. Such 
 was the subject of our conversation while remounting our 
 horses, with hearts full of emotion, and of the awful 
 grandeur of this great war, which, instead of comprising 
 four or five battles, might well be called a single one, or 
 the hundred battle war, lasting nearly fifteen months 
 without intermission, excepting only the few hours when 
 the flag of truce was hoisted, in order that the last reli- 
 gious rites to the mortal remains of the noble departed 
 might be performed. Oh war ! war ! where is thy fair 
 side ? Thou art only a paraphernalia of destruction and 
 misery ! 
 
 We started at a sharp trot, and were hardly half way 
 to Balaldava when the dusk of evening was settled over 
 the noisy camps, through which we were then passing at 
 full gallop. Mr. Anderson, knowing the road, as he 
 thought, endeavoured to cross the camp by a short cut, 
 when we were overtaken by night, and lost our way. 
 What with the regiments sounding their bugles and 
 the drums beating the retreat, it would have puzzled the 
 coolest head and annoyed the best field-horses. Find- 
 ing ourselves in one of the Zouave camps, we inquired of 
 the men in which direction Balaldava lay. A group of 
 about ten collected round us, and very politely pointed 
 out the road. It was in a straight line, and not so much 
 out of the way. 
 
 ce But,” said they, “ you cannot cut across the camp, 
 as this is the first day we hold the ground, and you are 
 certain to be arrested by the sentries, and clapped in the 
 violon for the night.” They also informed us that it 
 was imprudent to gallop through the camp, for if the 
 colonel was about, or it was reported to him, he would 
 be sure to stop us. 
 
 Another exclaimed, in French, “ Doif t be afraid, 
 friends ; the colonel is not very severe in cases in which 
 ladies are concerned. The officers are now devouring 
 
176 
 
 MILITARY GROUPS. 
 
 their popottes and taking their evening grog. There is 
 no danger, captain ; make the best of your way, as it is 
 getting late, and there are a set of scamps prowling 
 about who would think nothing of waylaying you for the 
 sake of a five-franc piece.” * 
 
 Miss Nightingale, Mr. Bracebridge, and Mr. Ander- 
 son were riding slowly in front; P. M. was anxious 
 to know what the Zouaves said, so I translated it as 
 above, for the edification of my brave companion. We 
 then started at a smart pace, but could not come up with 
 our avant garde . We made another halt near a group 
 who were sitting on the grass close to their tent, playing 
 some game with a set of mutton bones, and drinking 
 coffee. Others were singing their favourite African song, 
 the “Beau Zouave d^Afrique — Ylan — sont toujours en 
 avant — Ylan — Vlan — Rataplan — plan — plan.” Upon 
 
 inquiring if they had seen two gentlemen and a lady on 
 horseback, they replied, “ Yes,” and pointed out the road 
 they had taken. 
 
 On asking them how they liked camp life, their answer 
 was, “ Oh, very much in Algeria, but not at all here ; 
 the weather is so bad, and that trench business is such 
 dull work. We should prefer a battle once or twice 
 a- week in the open field to being shot at like so many 
 rabbits in the trenches.” 
 
 Upon asking what they were drinking, they said, 
 “Coffee; would you like to taste it?” “With great 
 pleasure,” said I. Upon which they gave me some. It 
 was not bad, but required a little more sugar. “ Well,” 
 they said, “we sometimes buy some, as we are only 
 allowed about enough for breakfast.” I requested their 
 acceptance of a few shillings to drink la gontte , which one 
 of them immediately refused, saying, “No, no, Bour- 
 geois ; we did not ask you to taste our coffee wishing to 
 make you pay for it.” 
 
 “ I know that, my dear fellow ; this is to drink our 
 health.” 
 
 “We will do that, then, and no mistake.” 
 
 “Good evening, my men, and thank you,” said I. 
 P. M. then started off at a gallop. I immediately 
 
HEROIC RESOLUTIONS. 
 
 177 
 
 stopped him, pretending that if we were seen we were 
 sure to be locked up all night, our lady fair not being 
 with us, the colonel would not joke. 
 
 “Well,” said he, fiercely, “it would only be for one 
 night, I suppose.” 
 
 “ Yes, one at least.” 
 
 “ I should prefer being locked up all night in the 
 guard-house to venturing in the dark among so many 
 brigands as the Zouaves say there are roaming about. 
 There we should be in safety; while here we maybe shot 
 at any moment.” 
 
 As we were descending a deep ravine, we heard a 
 female voice, and then the voices of gentlemen. I had 
 no doubt but that these proceeded from Miss Nightingale 
 and party, who were going slowly down the rocky side of 
 the ravine. Leaping from our horses, we went faster on 
 foot ; and in about ten minutes succeeded, thanks to the 
 light of the stars, in catching them. When within hail, 
 I called out, “ Who goes there ?” The reply assured me 
 they were our fair lady and her two cavaliers. On our 
 joining them they said they almost felt afraid that we 
 had been made prisoners ; and Mr. Anderson said he 
 had already given us up. Miss Nightingale and Mr. 
 Bracebridge were of the same opinion, and they laughed 
 heartily at P. M/s description of our dreadful adventure, 
 as he called it. We were then at the other side of the 
 ravine, and close to a road which Mr. Anderson recognised 
 as the one leading from Balaklava to head-quarters. 
 
 At last, we were in a fair way of reaching home 
 that night, which P. M. had long despaired of. The 
 conversation became very animated ; and I much amused 
 Miss Nightingale and party with my recital of what the 
 Zouave had said respecting his colonel. I also related 
 the coffee business — Miss Nightingale made particular 
 inquiries as to its quality. Having replied to her questions, 
 and being a little ahead, I arrived first at the top of a 
 high hill, and immediately caught sight of the hundreds 
 of lights in the little low shops at Kadikoi. We were all 
 right at last ; but the road being steep and very greasy. 
 Miss Nightingale’s pony slipped fearfully, which induced 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 A SAD MISHAP. 
 
 Mr. Anderson, who was nearest to her, to dismount and 
 lead it down the hill as far as the village. We then passed 
 through Kadikoi, which presented a different scene to 
 that of the morning, but still animated, from the groups of 
 Turkish and Greek labourers returning to their quarters, 
 and a quantity of drunken men rolling about. We 
 reached the watering-place at the end of the harbour at 
 last. Miss Nightingale’s pony, which was again led by 
 Mr. Anderson — this spot being, night and day, full of 
 horses — suddenly turned round to get to the trough, very 
 nearly throwing Miss Nightingale off, and probably would 
 have done so, had it not been held by Mr. Anderson, who 
 received a tremendous knock in the face from the brute’s 
 head. This accident made him bleed profusely, and gave 
 him a pair of black eyes. Of this we were not aware until 
 we arrived at the hospital, and could scarcely believe it 
 when we did. 
 
 Miss Nightingale and a doctor attended him imme- 
 diately ; and upon inquiring when it happened, he coolly 
 replied, “ About ten minutes ago, while we were watering 
 the horses.” 
 
 “But,” said Miss Nightingale, “you never mentioned 
 it.” 
 
 “ Of course not,” he replied ; “ why should I ? it 
 would only have made you nervous ; and I knew that 
 nothing could be done till we arrived here.” After liis 
 wound had been dressed, he declared that the shock was 
 so violent at the time, he actually thought his head had 
 been split open. 
 
 We regretted that, after having gone through such an 
 adventurous day without accident, a casualty should have 
 happened just at our return. Our valiant friend, P. M., 
 quietly vowed never to go camp-ranging again, especially 
 on a mule who was always bolting before or lagging 
 behind, but never kept parallel with our steeds. Indeed, 
 we called the animal Clockwork, as, when wound up, 
 he would go fast enough, but when run out, nothing but 
 re-winding would move him. 
 
 A few days after, by the merest chance, I found a 
 leaf from our friend P. M.’s diary, of which, no doubt, 
 
SCRAP PROM A HERO’S DIARY. 
 
 179 
 
 a copy had been sent to his fair Dulcinea. It read as 
 follows: — 
 
 Balaklava, Thursday. — Got up at five o’clock. Off for the day, 
 accompanying M. Soyer and other friends. My mule very restive. 
 Accident the first — broke a strap. Weather very hot, water scarce, 
 wine and beer more so. Ride up a ravine — nearly spilt. Quarrel 
 with a Bashi-Bazouk. Gallop away from my friends. Splendid 
 view of head- quarters. Visit the sick and wounded at General 
 Hospital : Miss Nightingale present — troops greet her with cheers. 
 Hirst glance of Sebastopol, peeping through the gabions. Dan- 
 gerous visit to the Three-gun Battery. A shell ! a shell ! Barely 
 have time to lie fiat upon the grass. One of our party wounded by 
 a splinter. Dangerous travelling at night. Take coffee with the 
 Zouaves. Arrive home safely, but very hungry, after our perilous 
 expedition. 
 
 We left Mr. Anderson, the horses were taken from us, 
 and we went on board the Robert Lowe . The captain 
 
 was in great anxiety about us, thinking that something 
 had occurred to Miss Nightingale, who, indeed, appeared 
 much fatigued with her glorious excursion. She made 
 no remark on the subject ; but, on the contrary, requested 
 me to accompany her early the next morning to both 
 hospitals. This I promised to do with great pleasure ; 
 and so ended that lady’s first visit to the camp hospitals 
 in the Crimea. 
 
 Seven bells was striking — all was silent and at rest 
 in the harbour — nothing was heard save the noise of the 
 bells from the different ships, the booming of the cannon 
 at Sebastopol, with now and then the sharp rattle of mus- 
 ketry, and the gloomy voice of the sentinel’s challenge — 
 “ Who goes there ?” 
 
 “ A friend.” 
 
 “ Pass, friend. All’s well.” 
 
180 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE ENGLISH AND TURKISH COMMANDERS-IN-CHIEF. 
 
 Miss Nightingale indisposed — More visitors — Admiral Boxer — A 
 valuable receipt — The admiral’s indefatigable industry — Miss 
 Nightingale’s perseverance — Off to the hospitals again — Genoese 
 Heights — Return — Last day on board the Robert Lowe — • 
 Removal to the London — A rough ride to Balaklava — Meeting 
 with Lord Raglan — Introduction — Omer Pacha — Conversation 
 — Arrival at Kadikoi — Reception of General della Marmora — 
 Fraternization. 
 
 The next morning was wet, chilly, and uncomfortable ; 
 and I heard with sorrow that Miss Nightingale was 
 rather indisposed. It did not, indeed, surprise me, con- 
 sidering the fatigue she had undergone the previous day 
 — more especially as she had taken no refreshment the 
 whole of the time. I made sure that she would postpone 
 her visit to the hospitals. Numbers of visitors poured in 
 as usual ; amongst them was Admiral Boxer, Chief 
 Admiral of the Port of Balaklava. Mr. Bracebridge was 
 upon deck, and directly he saw the admiral waiting, he 
 went and spoke to him. “Good morning, admiral,” 
 said Mr. Bracebridge, and then did me the honour of 
 introducing me. 
 
 “ Oh ! so you are the Monsieur Soyer I have often 
 heard of; and I made sure you were a much older man 
 than you appear to be.” 
 
 “ Hid you, indeed, admiral ?” 
 
 “ Yes, that I did. I bought one of your large cookery 
 books about fifteen years ago, and in your portrait you 
 are represented as a man of about forty years of age.” 
 
 “ I must have grown ten years younger since then ; 
 as I am only forty-five now, admiral.” 
 
 “ I wish you had put that receipt for growing younger 
 into vour book. I should have tried it long* ago, and have 
 been satisfied with five years, knowing as much as I do.” 
 
INTERVIEW WITH ADMIRAL BOXER. 
 
 181 
 
 “Well done, admiral/* said n friend of liis. “If 
 Monsieur Soyer could give sucli receipts as that, every- 
 body would like to take a leaf out of his book.** 
 
 “ At all events. Monsieur Soyer, you are welcome to 
 Balaklava, and when you like to come and see me upon 
 business — mind, I don*t invite you for anything else at 
 present, as all here is business, business, from morning 
 till night, and sometimes all night.** 
 
 “ I assure you, Monsieur Soyer,** said his nephew, “ the 
 admiral is always out first and on his rounds ; and I, 
 who seldom leave, often find him writing when every one 
 else is fast asleep.** 
 
 “Well, well, business must be attended to,** said 
 Admiral Boxer. “ At all events, recollect that I give 
 you the entree of the admiral*s ship.** 
 
 “Many thanks, admiral. You may rest assured I 
 will not trouble you often, and then only upon special 
 business.** 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, several officers from Scutari have 
 spoken very highly of your services there ; and I sin- 
 cerely trust you will be as successful here. — By-the- 
 bye, I must be off.** Looking at his watch. “ Oh, I 
 have ten minutes yet ; but could I not see Miss Nightin- 
 gale ?** 
 
 “ Certainly, admiral. Some gentlemen are with her 
 now — Doctor Henderson and your Balaklava chaplain.** 
 “ Oh, never mind, if the lady is engaged ; but I believe 
 you came on board the same ship, and wish to remain 
 together. I must look out for another vessel for you, as 
 the Robert Lowe will be off in a day or two.** 
 
 “In that case, admiral, pray see Mr. Bracebridge 
 about it. He is there talking to Thomas, his servant. I 
 will fetch him.** 
 
 “ Pray, Mr. Bracebridge,** said the admiral, “ give 
 my compliments to Miss Nightingale, and tell her from 
 me that I am sorry to disturb her, but the Robert Lowe 
 will sail in a day or two ; however, I am going my rounds, 
 and will try and get her quarters upon one of the best 
 vessels in the harbour, and let you know, Mr. Bracebridge. 
 Good-bye ! good-bye !** 
 
182 
 
 AN INDEFATIGABLE OFFICER. 
 
 In a second he was in his boat, holding the helm, and 
 talking to every one he met. His boat was seen in every 
 part of the harbour, and often in the bay, even in rather 
 rough weather. From daybreak till sunset, he might be 
 seen rowing about like a hunted pirate — very active, 
 quick, and expeditious — though very sailor-like — rather 
 rough and straightforward — by report generally liked. 
 Such I found Admiral Boxer. 
 
 The weather having cleared up a little, and as I made 
 sure that Miss Nightingale would not go out as it was 
 so very dirty on shore, I prepared to visit the hospitals 
 alone, in order to see how the workmen were going on ; 
 intending to ride thence to head-quarters. I purposed 
 getting there about one or two o’clock, his lordship’s 
 lunch-time — the most likely hour to obtain an interview. 
 On my way to Mr. Bracebridge’s cabin, to inform him of 
 my design, and ask him at the same time to go with 
 me — he having expressed a wish that we should go 
 together — Thomas, Miss Nightingale’s page, came 
 and inquired if I was ready to go with her to the 
 hospitals. 
 
 “ Pray, my lad, tell Miss Nightingale that I was going 
 alone ; but that, if she is well enough to go, I shall be 
 very happy to accompany her.” Before I had time, 
 however, to finish the sentence. Miss Nightingale had 
 ascended the cabin stairs, and, I must say, looked 
 very well. 
 
 “ Good morning, mademoiselle ; how are you after 
 your long journey of yesterday ? I heard you were rather 
 indisposed.” 
 
 “ I did feel unwell this morning, but am much better 
 now. I am extremely sorry about Mr. Anderson, who, I 
 am afraid, will be very much disfigured by last night’s 
 accident.” 
 
 “ I hope it will not prove very serious.” 
 
 “ It may not ; but it will be very disagreeable, as he 
 is obliged to see so many people.” 
 
 “No matter; all wounds are honourable in time of 
 war, excepting, perhaps, a pair of black eyes.” 
 
 “But what has become of your brave compagnon de 
 
VISITS TO THE HOSPITALS. 
 
 183 
 
 voyage, P. M.? Has he recovered from the effects of his 
 fright ?” 
 
 “ All I know is, that he was not at breakfast this 
 morning, and he told everybody last evening that he 
 would not, for any amount of money, again accompany 
 you, mademoiselle, or even her Majesty, through such 
 danger as he incurred yesterday.” Every one who knew 
 him laughed at his bravery, particularly Miss Nightingale, 
 who, turning to Mr. Bracebridge, said — “Monsieur Soyer 
 and myself are going to the General Hospital, and thence 
 to the Sanatorium, where I wish you to be kind enough 
 to meet us.” 
 
 “ About what time ?” inquired Mr. Bracebridge. 
 
 “ Two o’clock, as at that hour Mr. Anderson and Dr. 
 Sutherland will be there about the ventilation.” 
 
 We then started. The roads were very muddy. I 
 observed to Miss Nightingale that she ought to have had 
 boots made on purpose for such rough walking, to which 
 she assented, saying, “ I will do so. Monsieur Soyer.” 
 
 As we were passing, I left my card at Colonel 
 Hardinge’s, the commandant of Balaklava. I had the 
 pleasure of meeting many officers there with whom I 
 was acquainted ; they all gave me pressing invitations to 
 visit them in camp, and others to dine with them. As 
 I had no time to stay, I promised to call upon every one, 
 and rejoined Miss Nightingale. On arriving at the 
 hospital I found the workmen in full activity. Miss 
 Nightingale remained there about two hours. We went 
 next to the Sanatorium, and, in going up the hill, called 
 upon the sick officer who was in Dr. Henderson’s hut. 
 The nurse said that he was a little better, but far from 
 being well. He was delirious at times. 
 
 “ You had better go back to the hospital this evening, 
 
 Mrs. , and tell Miss Weare to appoint another 
 
 nurse to attend in your stead.” 
 
 “ Thank you, madam, I will do so ; and am rather 
 glad of it, as I feel very tired.” 
 
 We then proceeded to the Genoese Heights, where I 
 had the pleasure of meeting Captain King, the chief en- 
 gineer, whom I found very ready to assist me in every way. 
 
184 
 
 THE CHIEF ENGINEER. 
 
 “ You are aware/* said he, “ that we are not in London; 
 and I cannot build a kitchen in the Crimea such as you 
 had at the Reform Club.** 
 
 “ I should be very sorry if you could, as in that case 
 you would have to get somebody to manage it, for I 
 assure you I should not like to begin my gastronomic 
 career again ; and I must say I feel every bit as proud 
 in having to cook for the soldiers, if not more so, than 
 ever I did in cooking for the greatest epicures or the first 
 lords of England.** 
 
 “Then,** said Captain King, “we shall work well 
 together.** 
 
 “ I have no doubt of it, captain, as I only require a 
 few workmen, such as carpenters and bricklayers ; some 
 planks, nails, and a few bricks and a little mortar. If 
 my new field stoves were finished I should not trouble 
 you at all, as they will cook in the open air, and do not 
 require any fixing.** 
 
 “If you do not need anything more elaborate than 
 your kitchen here, we shall be able to give you satisfac- 
 tion. Have you seen the plan I have drawn out for 
 you ?** 
 
 “Yes, I have — it will do very well.** 
 
 I then went to look after our party. Miss Nightin- 
 gale, Dr. Sutherland, the hospital surveyor, and several 
 other doctors, were all together, and they had nearly 
 finished their rounds. They informed me that they were 
 going to see a small naval hospital, situated nearly at the 
 top of the high mountain to the left of the Sanatorium. 
 
 The boy Thomas came, and said Miss Nightingale was 
 going home immediately, inquiring, at the same time, 
 for Mr. Bracebridge. 
 
 “ He has been here,** I said, “ these two hours ; and I 
 saw him ride with Captain King towards the heights, as 
 if he was going to the naval hospital.** 
 
 “ Very well, sir, I will tell Dr. Sutherland.** 
 
 We were then all going towards the new kitchen. I 
 showed my plan to Miss Nightingale and Dr. Suther- 
 land, who both admired its simplicity and expedition as 
 regards cooking. I observed that this one, when com- 
 
185 
 
 THE ec GREAT LONDON.” 
 
 pleted, would serve as a model for any others which 
 might be required in the camp. 
 
 “ Where are the utensils?” asked the hospital pur- 
 veyor ; “ we have nothing in store.” 
 
 “ I assure you you are mistaken,” said X, “ because it 
 was only yesterday that I saw them in Mr. Fitzgerald's 
 store-room.” 
 
 “ I declare/' said he, “ that for days and days I have 
 been asking for kitchen utensils, and the only things I 
 could get were some spoons, a frying-pan, and large 
 forks.” 
 
 “ Oh,” said I, “ very likely ; but they only arrived 
 with us, and were ordered, at my suggestion, by Mr. 
 Robertson, the purveyor-in- chief at Scutari.” 
 
 “ I beg your pardon ; that's all right ; but I can assure 
 you that if you had depended upon the Balaklava or 
 Kadikoi tinkers, they would have made you pay as much 
 as five or six shillings for an article worth one in London.” 
 
 Miss Nightingale and party were by this time half 
 way to Balaklava, but we soon caught them. The 
 weather was bad, the road worse, and rain kept falling. 
 In fact, the mud was so deep in front of the ship, that 
 we were obliged to form a kind of bridge across the road 
 for the lady to get to the boat to go on board. Dr. 
 Sutherland, the captain of the Diamond , and the doctor 
 of the Naval Brigade, then made an appointment to go 
 and visit the new hospital building for the sick sailors on 
 the Leander Bay side, facing the Genoese Tower. After 
 this we parted — to meet early the next morning. Upon 
 our return, a message was delivered from the admiral, to 
 the effect that there were two ships at our disposal, and 
 requesting Mr. Bracebridge to go and see them, and 
 choose the one he liked best without delay, as probably 
 the Robert Lowe would leave the harbour for Constan- 
 tinople. 
 
 Mr. Bracebridge attended to the order immediately, 
 and having inspected both, selected the London , as she 
 was likely to remain the longest. The captain informed 
 us that it had at one time been called the Great London , 
 and that it was launched in the beginning of the reign 
 
186 
 
 A SOCIABLE PARTY. 
 
 of George the Third. The inhabitants of London used 
 to go and view it as a curiosity ; but when it sailed from 
 the Thames the crowd was immense. It was built by 
 Mr. Green. 
 
 This being probably our last day on board the Robert 
 Loioe, we invited a few friends to dine with us, and, 
 despite the bad weather, we passed a very pleasant and 
 sociable evening, enlivened by the sound of merry glees 
 and national songs. Our hearts and souls were fluttering 
 either in France or England, according to the style of 
 harmony. As Miss Nightingale’s state cabin was at a 
 good distance from the saloon, she could not be in the 
 slightest way disturbed by the double harmony which 
 reigned among us. The conversation was turned chiefly 
 tipon the arrival of the Sardinian army, and of the 
 destruction by fire of one of their vessels, called the 
 Capitole . She was filled with troops, but I believe none 
 were lost. This made a sad pendant to the French 
 vessel, the Semillante , wrecked some time before. 
 
 The next morning, some large vessels were reported in 
 sight, supposed to be the Sardinian fleet, though, from 
 their great distance and the contrary winds, they were 
 not expected in till late in the afternoon. This led to 
 the departure of the Robert Lowe that day, and earlier 
 than the captain had expected. We all left her early, and 
 Miss Nightingale installed her nurses in the Sanatorium 
 at the Genoese Heights, near the Tower, a sketch of 
 which appeared in the Illustrated London Neivs , of the 
 latter end of May, 1855, where we accompanied her with 
 a numerous escort. 
 
 As it seemed probable that Miss Nightingale would 
 be engaged the whole of the day classing her ladies in 
 their various departments, we postponed our visit to the 
 Leander Bay naval hospital till the morrow. It was also 
 necessary for us to take up our quarters on board the 
 London . The morning had been gloomy, and about one 
 o’clock it began to rain. I thought this would be a 
 good opportunity for obtaining an audience with Lord 
 Raglan at head-quarters. Having mentioned the matter 
 to Mr. Bracebridge, he approved it, and proposed accom- 
 
LOUD RAGLAN AND STAFF. 
 
 187 
 
 panying me. We dressed to face the weather. I rode 
 the mule, and off we went through the rain and deep 
 mud. 
 
 In going, we took the longest way and the worst 
 road, and were nearly two hours on our journey instead 
 of three-quarters of an hour, which is about the time 
 required, and even less in fine weather. We had almost 
 reached the generaFs house, when we perceived, at a 
 short distance, a kind of squadron of cavalry coming 
 towards Balaklava. Mr. Bracebridge exclaimed, “ If I 
 am not mistaken. Lord Raglan and his staff are going 
 out.” 
 
 We perceived that some of them wore their rough 
 weather coats. We immediately galloped towards them, 
 and found that it really was Lord Raglan and his staff, 
 with about thirty mounted officers, amongst whom were 
 some attached to the French and Turkish army. 
 
 Our first intention was to retire, but seeing Colonel 
 Steele, I rode up to him, told him I had called, and 
 requested him to fix an hour for an audience. Colonel 
 Steele replied, “ You could not have come at a better 
 time. Come with me ; I will introduce you to his lord- 
 ship ; he will be delighted to see you ; he has been 
 inquiring daily after you and Miss Nightingale.” 
 
 While this conversation was going on, we had got 
 quite close to Lord Raglan. Colonel Steele addressed 
 him, “ I beg pardon, my lord ; Monsieur Soyer is here.” 
 Lord Raglan turned suddenly round, and, before I had 
 time to salute him, said, “ Ah, Monsieur Soyer, how are 
 you ? I am indeed very glad to see you.” I assured 
 his lordship I felt highly flattered at his kind reception. 
 
 “ You are welcome to the seat of war, Monsieur Soyer. 
 It is many years since we had the pleasure of seeing each 
 other.” 
 
 “ It must be about ten years, my Lord.” 
 
 “ More than that ; let me see — it cannot be less than 
 fourteen, I am sure. I recollect going with some friends 
 of mine, to visit you in your interesting kitchen at the 
 Reform Club. You remember? 
 
 “So well, that I recollect your lordship saying you 
 
188 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO OMER PACHA. 
 
 never had a good dinner excepting when they gave you 
 the pot-au-feu made after my receipt, and that I was one 
 of your great benefactors.” 
 
 “ Perfectly right, Monsieur Soyer. You have been one 
 not only to me, but the public at large, in making all your 
 receipts known. Since we met, you have worked very 
 hard, and, although I did not see you, I watched your 
 progress and industry.” 
 
 “ I am still quite ready to render myself useful, and 
 willing to work harder than ever, under your direction.” 
 
 “ Well, well, you may depend upon it I shall do all in 
 my power to render your services available,” Turning 
 to an officer on his left. Lord Raglan said, “Will you 
 allow me to introduce Monsieur Soyer ?” Then addressing 
 himself to me. Lord Raglan said, “Monsieur Soyer — 
 His Excellency Omer Pacha.” 
 
 “I bowed to the distinguished Turkish commander, who 
 said in French, “Ah, Monsieur Soyer, I have frequently 
 heard Beyram Pacha speak of you ; only yesterday he 
 mentioned your name. He is acquainted with you ?” 
 
 “Yes, your excellency; I had the honour of sailing 
 from Marseilles to Constantinople in company w T ith the 
 
 “ He told me you were about to open a large hotel at 
 Eupatoria.” 
 
 “No, no, your excellency; Monsieur Soyer is come to 
 show our soldiers how to make the best of their rations, 
 which I consider very kind of him ; and no doubt they will 
 improve under his tuition. They will not change their 
 old style of cooking for any one else. Myself, several 
 colonels, and even generals, have taken a deal of interest 
 and trouble in trying to teach them a better way of 
 cooking. They adopt our plan while we are present, but 
 when once our backs are turned, they go on in their old 
 way.” 
 
 “Very true, very true,” said Omer Pacha. “It is 
 just the same with my men. Show them anything 
 better than their pilaff, they will not adopt it for the 
 world.” 
 
 “You have done wonders. Monsieur Soyer, in the 
 
A RUSSIAN PICKET. 
 
 189 
 
 hospitals at Scutari, as I perceive from the report and 
 the letter addressed to me by Lord William Paulet.” 
 
 “ I am very happy to have succeeded so well ; and 
 hope the system will in time be followed out by every 
 hospital, as it is less trouble than the old one, not more 
 expensive, and has been highly approved by all the 
 medical authorities.” 
 
 “ Oh,” said Lord Raglan, “ if it has been approved 
 of by the faculty, there is no doubt of its being 
 adopted at home.” 
 
 “ I have great numbers of testimonials from the heads 
 of the medical departments.” By this time we had arrived 
 near Kadikoi, which then consisted of only a few wooden 
 huts. The rain never ceased, and we went at a foot-pace 
 all the way, which gave us an opportunity of conversing. 
 I had the honour of riding on Lord Raglan’s right side, 
 and Omer Pacha was on his left. No sooner did we come 
 within view of the plain of Balaklava, than his lordship 
 pointed out the spot where the battle was fought, and 
 asked me if I could see a small church at a distance. 
 
 “ Perfectly well,” was my answer. 
 
 “ From this spot, on a fine day, you can see the enemy 
 quite distinctly,” said Lord Raglan ; “ and on that large 
 mound which appears so close to us, you can easily see 
 their sentries.” 
 
 “ So I can, my lord. Is that a Russian picket ?” 
 
 “Yes, it is.” 
 
 I thanked Lord Raglan for the information ; saying, 
 “ As I have no particular fancy to have the honour of 
 being made a prisoner of war, I shall take care not to go 
 too near our friends the enemies.” Irlis lordship turned 
 round and made some remark to Omer Pacha, who 
 laughed heartily ; but I did not distinctly hear what he 
 said — the road was rugged, and Lord Raglan wore a 
 mackintosh with a hood over his head — it was, however, 
 to the effect that the Russians could not secure a more 
 
 useful prisoner than myself, especially for (the 
 
 name escaped me), who is a great epicure. 
 
 We were by that time near the Col of Balaklava. Lord 
 Raglan asked me if I had seen the Sardinians land. I 
 
190 
 
 ARRIVAL OR THE SARDINIANS. 
 
 replied that; although I knew they were expected; I was 
 not aware of their arrival. 
 
 “ Oh yes; General della Marmora has arrived; and I 
 am going to receive him.'” 
 
 A large crowd had by this time gathered round the 
 general and his staff. When near the harbour; I took 
 leave of his lordship; who kindly invited me to call at 
 head-quarters, whenever I liked; and told me that Colonel 
 Steele would give me all the information and assistance I 
 might require to carry out my views. I followed the 
 brilliant cortege , being anxious to witness the reception 
 of the Sardinian general; which was most cordial and 
 effective, especially when the band struck up “ God save 
 the Queen;” such an animated and enthusiastic tableau 
 never met my eyes. The sketch was worthy the pencil 
 of the great Horace Yernet. 
 
 Mr. Bracebridge, who had been introduced to Lord 
 Raglan at the same time as myself, but who drew back 
 and conversed with Colonel Steele, left us at the small 
 bridge leading from the Col into Balaklava, and went 
 direct to the town side, while we turned to the left hand, 
 where the Sardinian fleet was anchored. The arrival of 
 the Sardinians had created quite a stir in Balaklava. 
 Towards dusk, they might be seen in all directions. Their 
 dress, manner, language, &c., all formed a marked con- 
 trast to the usual daily routine. The fraternization 
 between them and the English took place immediately ; 
 they were like brothers who, not having met for many 
 years, were at last united in order to defend the same 
 cause and brave the same dangers. All was joy, heroism, 
 and thirst for glory. The incessant roar of the cannon 
 of Sebastopol had for the first time re-echoed on board 
 the English and Sardinian men-of-war, producing a 
 double impression upon the feelings of both armies. The 
 evening closed with the vibration in the ear of “ God 
 save the Queen,” “ Partant pour la Syrie,” and the grand 
 Sardinian national air, which was performed by their 
 band. 
 
191 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 A NEW ENEMY. 
 
 A comfortable berth — A skirmish with the rats — A doubtful victory 
 — Arrival of reinforcements — Abandon the field — The Sardinian 
 contingent — Naval hospital in Leander Bay — Victims of the wreck 
 of the Prince — A Maltese cook — Magnificent bouquets — Another 
 brush with the rats — A captain in undress — How to catch them 
 — A receipt worth knowing — A good joke — Castle of a king in 
 Balaklava. 
 
 A quarter to eleven had struck when I made my first 
 appearance on hoard the London. All had turned in and 
 were asleep, and the lights were out in the chief cabin. 
 The night watch showed me my berth, which I could feel, 
 but not see ; so I crept into it half undressed, the best 
 way I could, and in a few minutes, from the fatigues of 
 the day, I fell into a deep slumber. This lasted for several 
 hours ; and I was at last aroused by several persevering 
 rats, who tried, at the risk of their lives, to pull a piece 
 of Sardinian biscuit out of my great-coat pocket. This I 
 had obtained on board the Carlo Alberto as a sample. 
 
 The presence of such unwelcome visitors made me 
 spring quickly out of my slice of a bed, which is very 
 judiciously called cabin-berth ; and, as I found it too 
 small for one, I had a great objection to extra lodgers. 
 I therefore stood upon the offensive and the defensive, 
 which caused my assailants to flee in the greatest con- 
 fusion, and with such celerity that I was unable to make 
 any of them prisoners. Relying upon the effects of their 
 defeat, fatigue enticed me to try another dose of sleep, 
 when all at once, with the perseverance of Zouaves, the 
 rats returned to the assault, and running over my face, 
 made me capitulate immediately, and leave them in pos- 
 session of my nautical bedchamber. I spent the remain- 
 der of the night uncomfortably enough upon the narrow 
 
192 
 
 A CAMPAIGN WITH THE PATS. 
 
 cabin benches, falling now and then on the floor by way 
 of variation. The light at last began to peep through 
 the cabin windows, and I could look after my garments* 
 which I at once rescued from the teeth of my enemies* 
 the Zouave rats. Not a morsel of the biscuit was left ; 
 they had gnawed two large holes in a new great-coat* 
 no doubt to save the buttons, which they had not swal- 
 lowed, but very nearly nibbled off. When I was dressed, 
 I rushed upon deck, and began to breathe freely. The 
 sun shone, and the morning gave promise of a fine day. 
 At eight we had breakfast, and I related my night's sport 
 to the captain, Mr. Bracebridge, and others. Every one 
 laughed heartily at my tribulation, which was poor con- 
 solation for such a victim as I had been. 
 
 On inquiring about Miss Nightingale, I learnt from 
 Mr. Bracebridge that she had come on board late in the 
 evening. I remarked that it was very imprudent of her 
 remaining so late out in such bad weather ; and I told 
 Mr. Bracebridge that he ought to prevent it, as she was 
 sure to be taken ill. “ So I told her," Mr. Bracebridge 
 replied, “but she says it will not be for long — only till 
 the sisters are installed ; then she will be able to come 
 home sooner. You were highly honoured yesterday* 
 Monsieur Soyer ; how you seemed to amuse Lord Raglan 
 and Omer Pacha !" 
 
 “Yes, indeed, his lordship is very lively and jocular." 
 
 Having explained all that took place, I asked him 
 where he went after leaving us. 
 
 “As I did not see Miss Nightingale return from the 
 Genoese heights, I went in search of her. By-the-bye* 
 are you going with us ?" 
 
 “ Going where ?" 
 
 “Why, to Leander Bay, to visit the sailors' new 
 hospital." 
 
 “ Of course I am," I replied. “ The present Admiral 
 (Lushington) , Captain Hamilton, Doctors Smart and 
 Sutherland will accompany Miss Nightingale." 
 
 The Doctor of the Diamond called for us in his boat, 
 and beneath a glowing sun, on a fine spring day, we 
 crossed the busy harbour. The Sardinian man-of-war 
 
LEANDEE, BAY. 
 
 193 
 
 was the greatest attraction. The band played a fine 
 march and some original melodies, which enlivened our 
 short trip. All the shipping had hoisted their flags, and 
 •other vessels were seen in the offing, conveying the 
 remainder of the Sardinian army. 
 
 While we were crossing, Miss Nightingale inquired 
 about my doings of the previous day, which I carefully re- 
 lated to her, dwelling particularly upon the kind reception 
 I had received from Lord Raglan and Omer Pacha, and the 
 willingness of the former to assist me in my undertaking. 
 
 “ I am very glad to hear it,” said Miss Nightingale ; 
 <c but, for all that, you will have innumerable difficulties 
 to contend with. Not a man is at work at your kitchen. 
 They say they have no more planks, and all do just 
 as they please. The engineering department is over- 
 burdened with work. For my part, I can get nothing 
 done, nor can the Purveyor-in- chief. I don't blame any 
 one ; but if delays of this kind occur for such trifles, what 
 will it be for so important an affair as your general and 
 extra-diet kitchens?” 
 
 u You are right, and I thank you for the hint. Upon 
 our return, I will go and see Captain King.” 
 
 We had then arrived in Leander Bay. I pointed out 
 the spot at which the poor victims of the wreck of the 
 Prince were buried — the sight of which made a singular 
 impression upon every member of the party, especially 
 when I told them the number which lay there. There 
 was scarcely any earth over them ; and the workmen told 
 us the stench from the bodies was so dreadful, they were 
 often compelled to leave their work in consequence. 
 Another said we did not perceive it because the wind was 
 in another direction. Mr. Bracebridge took note of this, 
 in order to mention the matter to Dr. Sutherland, who 
 knew nothing of it at the time. On reaching the green 
 mountain, at the top of which is situated the new Naval 
 Hospital, we were greeted by the sight of a complete 
 garden of wild flowers, vines, and aromatic plants. This 
 repaid us for the dismal scene below. Several French 
 soldiers were picking the flowers, and gathering salad 
 and wild sorrel. 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 THE HEW NAVAL HOSPITAL. 
 
 At the hospital we met Dr. Sutherland and Mr. 
 Anderson, who had not recovered from the effect of his 
 accident, and still had a pair of black eyes. The Com- 
 mander had been waiting some time for us, and was on 
 the point of retiring, when our arrival induced him to 
 change his intention. We visited the hospital, which, 
 though a small one, was delightfully situated. The huts 
 were built on a new principle, with a new style of ven* 
 tilation. The kitchen had then only just been com- 
 menced. I gave the sailor cook, a Maltese, who seemed 
 very intelligent, a few hints, and promised to send the 
 doctor a plan, and to give him my hospital receipts. The 
 latter I had been expecting for some time from Constan- 
 tinople ; but they had been lost, and I was obliged to have 
 them reprinted. The plan, however, I sent. It was 
 adopted, and, upon my second visit, everything was 
 going on very satisfactorily. 
 
 We then separated into groups, and enjoyed a delight- 
 ful ramble over the rocks and mountains, herborising for 
 a couple of hours. When we again reunited, we all had 
 enormous bouquets of flowers, collected in honour of our 
 fair lady, who could not help laughing at the appearance 
 of her beaux and their bouquets. Only one was accepted, 
 and the fortunate candidate was our worthy friend the 
 invalid, Mr. Anderson. We carried our botanical harvest 
 home, and descended the hill full of health and spirits. 
 Even the cannon of Sebastopol was silent, at least to our 
 ears, the wind being the wrong way for the report to 
 reach us. In a few minutes we were once more afloat, and 
 were about conducting Miss Nightingale on board, when 
 she said that she wished to go to the General Hospital ; 
 so Captain Hamilton landed us as near to it as possible. 
 We then separated — Dr. Smart and Mr. Anderson in- 
 viting me to go and see them often, as they had much to 
 inform me of relating to the food of the army. 
 
 Dr. Smart accompanied Miss Nightingale to the hos- 
 pital, and I went to find Captain King ; but he had gone 
 to the Sanatorium — at least so they told me at his office. 
 I went up there, being anxious to have this kitchen com- 
 pleted, as it was really much wanted. The hospital was 
 
A RAT-HUNT. 
 
 195 
 
 getting fuller every day, and I had a great desire to 
 commence operations at the camp. The Captain was not 
 there, nor could I find a single workman. To my great 
 sorrow, I met Miss Nightingale coming down the hill, 
 attended by a nurse or two, and the page-boy. She 
 was walking through the mud in thin boots. The 
 weather had entirely changed, and a heavy rain was 
 falling. Upon meeting her, I could not refrain from 
 expressing my fear that she would catch cold. She had 
 been to ask the nurse at Dr. Henderson’s how the officer 
 patient was. Upon reaching the harbour, we took a 
 Maltese boat, and arrived on board the London almost 
 wet through. 
 
 A different cabin to the one I had occupied the night 
 before was allotted to me. All the rat-holes had been 
 stopped, and by special favour I was allowed a night- 
 lamp. I had the pleasure of seeing the rats run about, 
 which afforded me the opportunity of hunting them at 
 my ease. I then perceived that several escaped through 
 the bull’s-eye, which I immediately closed, and so cap- 
 tured three. I then commenced killing them with a 
 stick, and in so doing made noise enough to arouse every- 
 body. Some of the crew came to see what was the 
 matter, while the Captain, who was half asleep, and 
 rather deaf, told the mate to send for the police and turn 
 the drunken man out. 
 
 Having explained to the first mate the cause of my 
 nocturnal disturbance, he told me that they were sure to 
 come in at the bull’s-eye, if left open, that being the 
 easiest way for them when in harbour. “ And,” said he, 
 “ they travel that way from one ship to another in bands 
 of ten or twenty at a time.” He then showed me how to 
 close and fasten the bull’s-eye, after which he retired to 
 his berth. All at once, one of the brutes, which had 
 remained concealed, in attempting to escape upset the 
 lamp upon the floor and extinguished it, and thus com- 
 pelled me for the second time to seek to repose upon the 
 hard and unsophisticated cabin bench, when the Captain 
 made his appearance rather in a state of neglige \ holding 
 a rushlight in one hand and a sword in the other, with a* 
 
 o 2 
 
196 
 
 CURIOUS COSTUME. 
 
 nightcap tied round with a red riband upon his head. 
 In great anxiety, he inquired what the row was about. 
 
 “The row, Captain,” said I, “is nothing. It’s only 
 the bull’s-eye in my cabin, which being half open, the 
 rats have got in again.” 
 
 “What do you say. Monsieur Soyer?” 
 
 “ Nothing,” again I shouted. 
 
 “ Call that nothing ? I never had such a row in my 
 ship before. Bless my soul,” said he, “ what a nuisance 
 those rats are ! They make quite as free in my cabin ; 
 but, being used to it, I do not care so much about them. 
 The worst of it is that we can never keep a bit of cheese 
 or a candle; they eat them up as fast as I buy them.” 
 
 “ It is certainly very provoking, Captain ; but why not 
 try and catch them?” 
 
 “Oh, bless you, we have tried everything — poison, 
 traps, broken glass. We caught a few, but I would 
 give the world to have them all caught.” 
 
 “ I can give you a receipt which will enable you to 
 have them almost all caught in a few days.” 
 
 “ The deuce you could !” said he, coming and sitting 
 opposite to me. “ Tell me how it is done — I shall be so 
 much obliged to you ; but I must go and put something 
 on first, I am so cold.” As he said this, I perceived that 
 the skylight over his head was open. 
 
 “ Oh, never mind that ; it won’t take two minutes to 
 tell you — listen to me.” 
 
 “ So I will,” he said. 
 
 “ The place where you keep your cheese would be the 
 very spot to make the trial. The thing is quite easy. 
 Have your cheese and candles removed.” 
 
 “ So I will ; but I wish you would let me put a coat 
 on — I am getting so very cold.” 
 
 “Never mind about that; I shall not keep you a 
 minute — listen to me.” 
 
 “ So I will.” 
 
 “When the cabin is perfectly empty, have it cleaned 
 and well scrubbed.” 
 
 “ That will be done.” 
 
 “ When it is dry, take half a pound of good Cheshire 
 
HOW TO CATCH RATS. 
 
 197 
 
 cheese, scrape it fine, and mix it with about two pounds 
 of rough bread-crumbs.” 
 
 “Yes, I will.” 
 
 “ Perhaps you think it is a pity to give them half a 
 pound of good cheese.” 
 
 “Not at all, because the vermin eat pounds of it daily.” 
 “ Mix both well together.” 
 
 “ Yes, I understand — and make them into balls.” 
 
 “ No, not at all — only spread the lot upon the floor, 
 leave the door and window open, and go to bed. Of 
 course they will come and eat.” 
 
 “ I should say they would,” he observed. 
 
 “ The next evening do the same, cutting the cheese a 
 trifle larger. They will come again and eat it.” 
 
 “ What next ?” said he. 
 
 “ The third night, leave the doors and windows open ; 
 go to bed as usual, and put nothing at all in the cabin.” 
 “ What then ?” he asked again, in a state of anxiety. 
 “ Why, of course, when they come and find nothing 
 to eat, and being in still greater numbers than the two 
 previous nights, they will be all caught.” 
 
 “ How,” said he, “ will they be all caught ?” 
 
 “ Why, of course, finding nothing to eat, they will be 
 all taken in.” 
 
 “ That be d d ! I have made a nice fool of myself, 
 
 standing here half naked to listen to such rubbish as that.” 
 Having said this, he ran into his cabin, and for a 
 long while I heard him sneezing and muttering to 
 himself. The word “ fool ” was all that I could catch ; 
 and soon after all was silent till daybreak. 
 
 On waking, I at first regretted having carried the 
 joke so far, when all at once I heard the good captain 
 burst out laughing and sneezing. The first visit I had 
 in the morning, while shaving in my cabin, was from 
 the captain. As it was then only six o’clock, I made 
 sure he was coming to challenge me, and began to think 
 of choosing my favourite weapons, which I had so suc- 
 cessfully employed on a similar occasion in London, after 
 a serious discussion with a red republican on the subject 
 of monarchy. 
 
198 
 
 SHORT METHOD WITH A DUELLIST. 
 
 One afternoon, at a French restaurant in the Hay- 
 market, a rather animated discussion, apropos of the new 
 republic of the year ^48, took place between myself and 
 a person whom I afterwards ascertained to be the duellist 
 Cournet, an officer in the French navy, who has already 
 been mentioned in the earlier pages of this work. 
 
 My entire disapproval of the conduct of the friends of 
 liberty, as shown by their wanton destruction of every- 
 thing, both useful and ornamental, even to the court 
 breeches and white inexpressibles of the National Guard 
 (which were exposed to dry at every window of the 
 Palace of the Tuileries, thus giving to that noble building 
 somewhat the appearance of Pag Fair), was so strongly 
 expressed, that Cournet, “ taking umbrage thereat,” 
 after calling me a monarchist and an enemy to liberty, 
 insisted upon my meeting him the next morning, to give 
 him the satisfaction due from one gentleman to another. 
 
 I replied to his challenge by desiring that the matter 
 should be settled at once. 
 
 He answered, in a haughty tone, “Comme vous 
 voudrez, monsieur. C’est a vous le choix des armes. 
 Nous tirerons ce que vous voudrez !” 
 
 “Eh, bien,” said I, “puisque c’est a moi le choix 
 des armes, sortons a Pinstant meme, monsieur, et nous 
 allons nous tirer les cheveux.” 
 
 “ As you please, sir. The choice of weapons is yours.” 
 
 “ In that case, I suppose we must pull triggers for it.” 
 
 “ Sir,” replied he, “ we will pull any mortal thing you 
 please.” 
 
 “ Good,” said I ; “ then we will at once proceed to 
 pull each other’s hair.” 
 
 The roar of laughter which followed this sally some- 
 what calmed the ire of this rabid and irascible duellist, 
 more especially when he was informed who I was, and 
 that my province was to make people live well, and not 
 die badly. 
 
 The Captain, however, entered with a smile on his 
 countenance, and looked altogether pleased. He begged 
 of me to say nothing about it, as the crew would laugh 
 at him, and it was necessary on board ship to be very 
 
CASTLE OE A KING. 
 
 199 
 
 severe. Moreover, he declared that he wished to catch 
 some of his brother captains, who, like him, were very- 
 much pestered with rats. 
 
 As I was extremely anxious to see Captain King 
 respecting the slow progress of the kitchen, I started 
 about seven o’clock, expecting to find him at home. 
 After a long and disagreeable mountainous walk, I arrived 
 too late. "But,” said his man, "you will very likely 
 meet him at his office about nine o’clock, or else at the 
 Sanatorium or head-quarters, or at Kadikoi, as he told 
 me he was going to those places.” 
 
 “ I suppose I have a chance of finding him anywhere, 
 except at Sebastopol,” I replied. 
 
 More fortunate than on former occasions, I met the 
 captain on horseback going to his office. We mounted 
 the tumble-down rotten wooden staircase of this late 
 palazzo, now converted into one of the principal and 
 most important departments in the British army in the 
 Crimea — viz., the office of the chief engineer. The large 
 room which was dedicated to the captain would hold, 
 at a pinch, seven or eight people of a very moderate 
 size standing; the second about five ; and the third none, 
 being filled with plans, models, and drawings. 
 
 Such was the castle of a king in Balaklava; and I 
 have seen from thirty to forty people waiting in the mud 
 to have an interview with his Majesty, who, I must 
 confess, received his loyal subjects with a most humorous 
 and happy countenance, having always a smile for a friend 
 and kind words for everybody. When we got in, I im- 
 mediately locked the door, informing him that he, the 
 king, was my prisoner for at least ten minutes, as that was 
 all the time I should require. We went earnestly to busi- 
 ness. I submitted my various plans, and requested him to 
 have the Sanatorium kitchen finished. To this he agreed, 
 promising to do all he could for me, at the same time 
 observing they were short of materials and good workmen. 
 
 I then set the captain and king at liberty. 
 
 I next went to see Commissary Filder, being anxious 
 to fix a time for inspecting the provisions in general use. 
 
200 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 RECEPTION AT ENGLISH AND FRENCH HEAD- QUARTERS. 
 
 Question of fuel — Saving of hundreds per cent. — Miss Nightingale’s 
 indisposition — Mr. Upton — Who caught the rats? — Lots of 
 acquaintances — A short cut — Arrive at head- quarters — General 
 Della Marmora’s visit — Interview with Lord Raglan — Inspec- 
 tion of field-stove — Conversation — Model admired — Omer 
 Pacha on army cookery — Valuable suggestions — Lord Raglan’s 
 cook — Golding’s preserved meats — Various methods — Dr. Hall 
 — The eccentric Louis — Dr. Cumming’s letter — French head- 
 quarters — A flying visit — Fraternization — Ride home. 
 
 On my return to our ship, I left my card at Colonel 
 Hardinge’s. He kindly invited me to breakfast ; and I 
 regretted that I could not accept the invitation, having 
 promised Colonel Steele to be at head-quarters at eleven 
 o’clock. After a little business conversation respecting 
 the arrival of the fuel, he gave me an estimate of the 
 number of vessels required daily for that purpose alone, 
 the number of men employed in loading and unloading 
 the ships, the encumbrance it caused in the harbour, the 
 room required for storing it, the number of mules for 
 carrying it to the various camps, and the difficulty of 
 distributions “ No one,” said he, “ can imagine the 
 immense quantity of labour that is required for keeping 
 up the supplies of fuel.” 
 
 “ I am going to-day,” I remarked, “ to see the Com- 
 mander-in-chief ; and I intend to submit a small model 
 of my camp kitchen for his inspection.” In a few words 
 I explained its principle, and stated the small quantity of 
 fuel it would require. Colonel Hardinge remarked, 
 “ Why, you will save at least between three and four 
 hundred per cent. ; for it is not the cost of the coal or 
 wood which is the principal item, but the labour, expense, 
 and inconvenience of transport. All these will be greatly 
 reduced.” 
 
BALAKLAVA HOUSE. 
 
 201 
 
 “ I am much obliged to you,” I said, “ for your very 
 encouraging remarks.” 
 
 “ Any more information you may require I shall at all 
 times be happy to afford ; and as you have no horses yet, 
 whenever you want a pony, let me know.” 
 
 “ I feel grateful, Colonel, for your kind reception.” 
 Crowds of people were waiting for an audience, yet I 
 managed to escape. Balaklava House was indeed a 
 palace compared with the rest of the Tartaric habitations. 
 On arriving on board the London , I heard with regret 
 that Miss Nightingale was indisposed. Mr. Bracebridge 
 did not think it was anything very serious. Mrs. Roberts, 
 Miss Nightingale’s head nurse, who always accompanied 
 her and attended her during the voyage, informed me 
 that Miss Nightingale was not going out, having much 
 writing to do, it being post-day. 
 
 Mr. Bracebridge wished me to go with him to see 
 Mr. Upton, the son of the architect who built the harbour 
 and docks of Sebastopol. On my reminding him of my 
 appointment at head-quarters (which he had forgotten), 
 Mr. Bracebridge proposed going the next morning, 
 as he had a particular desire to see Mr. Upton and 
 family. “I hear,” said he, “Mr. Upton is a Warwick- 
 shire man. His father was born at the small village of 
 Grendon, close to my place and that of your late friend. 
 Sir George Chetwynd, of Grendon Hall.” 
 
 “ Really ! I know the place very well ; and to-morrow 
 I shall be happy to accompany you, unless fresh orders 
 from head-quarters interfere with the arrangement.” 
 “Your pony is ready. Monsieur Soyer,” said the 
 steward of the ship. I sent for Miss Nightingale’s page, 
 Thomas. 
 
 “ Do you want me, Monsieur Soyer ?” asked the boy. 
 
 “ Yes, my lad, I do. Tell your mistress I am going to 
 head-quarters ; give her my best compliments, and say I 
 shall have the pleasure of seeing Lord Raglan ; and ask 
 her if I can take any message for her to him, or to any 
 one else in the camp.” 
 
 The Captain, who was smoking on the upper deck, 
 called out, “ Who caught the rats ?” 
 
202 
 
 INTERCHANGE OE CIVILITIES. 
 
 “You mean, who caught the captain,” said I, “who 
 could not smell a rat ?” 
 
 The boy returned, and informed me that Miss Nightin- 
 gale was very much obliged to me, and that she had 
 written to Lord Raglan upon business that very morning. 
 
 I then started. The roads were still very heavy from 
 the immense quantity of rain which had fallen, but the 
 weather was fine overhead, and everybody seemed to be 
 out. People, in fact, sprang up like mushrooms in a 
 green field after a little rain and a few hours of August 
 sunshine. I met numerous friends and acquaintances 
 between Balaklava and Kadikoi. Many of these — mili- 
 tary as well as medical gentlemen — I had seen at Scutari. 
 Indeed, the excursion put me more in mind of riding in 
 Hyde Park on a Sunday afternoon, than being in a 
 distant country, and at the seat of war. For above a 
 mile it was a constant nodding of heads and shaking of 
 hands. As my time was short, I felt anxious to get on 
 my journey as fast as possible. I did not know the way 
 to head-quarters, so I inquired of an officer which was 
 the shortest road. He kindly informed me that he was 
 going there, and knew the short cuts, but that he was 
 in a great hurry, and if I could ride fast, he should be 
 much pleased to show me the way. Of course I expressed 
 my willingness to accommodate my pace to his, and 
 away we went across country. After riding for twenty- 
 five minutes, we arrived near the ever-celebrated farm 
 which constituted the head-quarters. Its appearance 
 was by no means grand nor imposing, and put me very 
 much in mind of Shakspeare’s house at Stratford, or the 
 humble cot of the poet Burns in Ayrshire. 
 
 My readers are too well acquainted with the locality 
 and the non-architectural design of the house and its 
 dependencies for me to attempt giving a description. 
 The well-known spot was first taken as the English 
 head-quarters, and retaken by drawing, daguerreotyping, 
 engraving, photographing, lithographing, &c. : in fact, 
 it became, as well as the wooden French head-quarters, 
 so celebrated during the war-time, that the Tuileries, 
 Windsor, and the marble palace of Dolma Bach were 
 
ENGLISH HEAD- QUARTERS. 
 
 203 
 
 actually cast into the shade, and a very deep shade too. 
 Even cities were at a discount compared with Sebastopol. 
 Yes, Sebastopol, pretty, picturesque Sebastopol, with its 
 few thousand inhabitants, was in everybody's mouth and 
 thoughts. 
 
 The court-yard at head-quarters that morning pre- 
 sented a very lively scene. I found it, to my great 
 disappointment, filled with officers' chargers, which were 
 being slowly led about by the orderlies. There were 
 some belonging to Sardinians, French, and Turks, 
 besides English ones. This sight made me despair of 
 seeing the General that morning, and I feared that I 
 should lose another day. Time was then precious to me. 
 
 Upon inquiry, I was informed that the Sardinian 
 General, Della Marmora, was returning a visit to Lord 
 Raglan and to General Canrobert, and that they would 
 all be off directly, as a grand review of their troops was 
 to take place the following day. This afforded me an 
 opportunity of paying my second visit to Dr. Hall, the 
 chief superintendent. He was out, but I was told that 
 he would be home by one or two o'clock. On retracing 
 my steps to head-quarters, I found, as I had been at first 
 informed, every one on the point of departure. The 
 different uniforms formed an exquisite contrast in the 
 military cavalcade. The court-yard was soon cleared, 
 and I went in, and had the pleasure of seeing General 
 Airey, Colonel Steele, &c. Colonel Steele said I was just 
 in time to see Lord Raglan, and I was at once ushered in. 
 
 “What have you to show me. Monsieur Soyer?" said 
 Lord Raglan, after a kind greeting. 
 
 “ I wish to submit to your lordship's inspection the 
 model of my field-stove, and if you approve of it, the 
 progress of my undertaking will be greatly accelerated." 
 
 “ Very well; explain it at once." 
 
 “ In the first place, here is a simple plan of the kitchen 
 in course of erection at the Sanatorium Hospital." I 
 pointed out the details, which his lordship seemed to 
 understand at first sight. 
 
 “If that is all you require, surely you can have it 
 done without much delay." 
 
204 
 
 HOMAGE TO MISS NIGHTINGALE. 
 
 “ That is all ; but I require men as well.” 
 
 “ You shall have them — orders will be given to that 
 effect.” 
 
 “ This one will serve as a model for all the others : they 
 will be upon a similar scale. For example, the General 
 Hospital before Sebastopol does not require one on so 
 extensive a scale, though the most important.” 
 
 “ Well, what you require must be done. By-the-bye, 
 Monsieur Soyer, you are very fortunate in having had 
 the honour of escorting Miss Nightingale to the seat of 
 war.” 
 
 “ I am fully aware, my Lord, that it is a great 
 honour.” 
 
 “ The lady mentioned you in her letter to me, as well 
 as Mr. Bracebridge, whom I know very well. I went to 
 Balaklava the other day to visit her.” 
 
 “So I heard; but Miss Nightingale was at the 
 Sanatorium whilst your lordship went to the General 
 Hospital.” 
 
 “ They could not tell me where she was — therefore I 
 did not go to the Sanatorium. I saw a poor lady who 
 seems very ill. I told her she had better take care of 
 herself, and have some one to nurse her, instead of 
 nursing others. She spoke very good French, and a 
 very lady-like person she is.” 
 
 “ I know whom your lordship means — the lady is Miss 
 Wear.” 
 
 “ I almost forget the name, but I believe that was it.” 
 Lord Raglan made many inquiries respecting Miss 
 Nightingale, whose character he seemed to admire very 
 much. We then returned to business matters. I ex- 
 pressed my desire to visit the hospital kitchens in the 
 camp, in company with some of the authorities. To 
 this Lord Raglan immediately acceded. 
 
 “ No person could be better than Dr. Hall. Do you 
 know him, Monsieur Soyer?” 
 
 “ No, my Lord, I have not that pleasure ; I called upon 
 him twice, but unfortunately he was out.” 
 
 “ He lives close at hand, and I will send for him.” 
 
 I told Lord Raglan that I had just left his hut, and 
 
THE FIELD STOVES. 
 
 205 
 
 that he was absent, but would be certain to be back by 
 three or four o’clock. 
 
 “Very well; then you can settle that together.” 
 
 As I perceived that numbers of persons were waiting 
 to see his lordship, and that messages were continually 
 being sent in, I said that I should be happy to wait, and 
 would call again. 
 
 “ No, no, not at all,” said Lord Raglan ; “ if you were 
 to wait, you might do so for a month. What is that 
 you have under your arm ? Is it a cooking apparatus ?” 
 
 “Yes, this is the model of the field stove I have 
 invented, and which I wish to submit for your lordship’s 
 opinion and approval, by command of Lord Panmure, 
 who approved of it very highly. Mr. Brunei, the great 
 engineer, did the same. They are now in use in various 
 hospitals, particularly at Smyrna, and at Scutari, where 
 they answer admirably. They can also be used in 
 the field, as they will cook either in or out of doors. 
 Those for out-of-door purposes only require to be made 
 smaller and lighter than the hospital ones.” 
 
 Having carefully explained the principle upon which 
 it was constructed, Lord Raglan thought it would answer 
 perfectly, and asked, “ Do you wish to have them adopted 
 immediately ?” 
 
 “Not before you have seen them at work, my Lord.” 
 
 “ Ah, that will do better.” 
 
 “ I am expecting some of them shortly ; in fact, they 
 should have been here before.” 
 
 “ Well, you had better make inquiries about them, or 
 they may be delayed somewhere, as this happens almost 
 every day.” 
 
 Several gentlemen were present when I explained the 
 principle of the stove, in which Lord Raglan seemed 
 much interested, showing the model and taking the 
 trouble to explain its principle to them himself. Colonel 
 Symonds said, “ Monsieur Soyer, I will go and fetch his 
 Excellency Omer Pacha ; he is much interested in this 
 kind of thing.” 
 
 “ Do, Colonel,” said Lord Raglan. Then turning to 
 me : “ I am much pleased with what I have seen, and 
 
206 
 
 SHARP PRACTICE. 
 
 have no doubt those stoves will prove a great boon to* 
 the army; but mind, they must not be made too heavy, 
 and they must be adapted for companies. Neither must 
 you forget the smaller ones which I mentioned to you, 
 for picket and outpost duty.” Omer Pacha entered. 
 “ Now,” said Lord Raglan, “ form your own opinion of 
 Soyer’ s field stove, and let me know what you think 
 of it.” 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer,” said Omer Pacha, “what have you 
 good to eat there ?” 
 
 “ Nothing at present, your Excellency; but by-and- 
 by, when my plans are adopted, we shall be able to cook 
 for and feed the army with ease.” 
 
 “Ah, this is a matter of great importance. Pray 
 explain your plans to me.” When I had done this, 
 Omer Pacha said, “ It will first be necessary to have 
 something to cook.” 
 
 The truth of the observation I respectfully admitted, 
 with a low bow, adding, “ Your Excellency is right; but 
 as the probability is that something to be cooked never 
 yet entirely failed, and in expectation of better times 
 coming, we confidently hope that the provisions for the 
 army will shortly be on the increase instead of the 
 decrease. This hope has induced me to invent this 
 apparatus, of which, when its principle has been fully 
 explained, I have no doubt you will, with Lord Raglan, 
 approve.” 
 
 “Monsieur Soyer, I have no doubt that, as regards 
 cooking, you are a very clever man ; but if you could 
 manage to cook a dinner out of nothing, you would be 
 more clever still.” 
 
 “Not having tried the experiment, I really cannot say 
 whether I could do so or not ; but I will try, and then 
 report progress to your Excellency.” 
 
 A hearty laugh from all present terminated this petite 
 plaisanterie. This brought to my mind the story of a 
 very promising schoolboy, who, when asked by a learned 
 man whether he could speak Latin, replied, “ I cannot 
 tell, sir.” 
 
 “ Why can’t you tell, my boy ?” 
 
loed eaglan’s cook. 
 
 207 
 
 “ Because I never tried, sir/’ was tlie answer. 
 
 “ At all events/’ I continued, addressing Omer Pacha, 
 “ you will perceive that if I cannot make something out 
 of nothing, I am able to do a great deal with a little, 
 which in war-time is a very important matter.” 
 
 “ Very true; but pray show me the interior of this 
 little model.” 
 
 Having shown and explained the apparatus, Omer 
 Pacha admitted its practicability, and, after giving 
 me a few hints on the Turkish system of camp 
 cookery, retired, followed by his staff, wishing me every 
 success. Lord Raglan met Omer Pacha in the passage, 
 and they exchanged a few words, which I could hear 
 bore reference to the subject we had discussed. I was 
 leaving, when Lord Raglan re-entered. 
 
 “ So you are going. Monsieur Soyer?” 
 
 “ Yes, my Lord. I fear my visit has been too long.” 
 “ No, not at all — this is rather a quiet day, and before 
 you go I wish you would be kind enough to look at my 
 kitchen.” 
 
 “ I shall be most happy to do so.” 
 
 “ Do you know my cook ? — his name is Armand — he 
 is not a cordon lieu , but he is a good man, and does his 
 best with what he can get.” 
 
 “The French proverb a la guerre comme a la guerre 
 is very applicable to the circumstances — nay, rather too 
 much so to permit one to hope to obtain a good dinner.” 
 “Very true,” said Lord Raglan; “and we are really 
 so tired of those preserved meats.” 
 
 “ Indeed ; but some of them are not bad.” 
 
 “ The great fault is, that the meat is always overdone. 
 How do you account for that, Monsieur Soyer ?” 
 
 “ If it were not so, they would not keep. When I was 
 sent for to Deptford to report upon Golding’s preserved 
 
 meats — which, no doubt, your lordship recollects ” 
 
 “ I do, indeed ; they were too bad to be forgotten.” 
 
 “ I assure your lordship the fault was more in the 
 cooking than in the bad quality of the meat — some of 
 which I found in a state of liquid putrefaction. No doubt, 
 the meat was not of prime quality, and many improper 
 
208 
 
 PRESERVED MEATS. 
 
 things were introduced. Nevertheless, if the articles had 
 been properly preserved, they would have been found as 
 sweet when taken out as when they were put in. For 
 example, the entrails of any animal might be enclosed in 
 these tin cases in the state in which they came from the 
 animal, and, if well preserved, upon opening them a 
 couple of years after, they would be found pretty much in 
 their original state, excepting being slightly discoloured 
 by the cooking — but whole, and not in a liquid state, as 
 those were. The meat was, therefore, either not cooked 
 enough, or some atmospheric air had remained in it 
 which caused putrefaction.” 
 
 “ Could not any other way of preserving be introduced?” 
 “Many experiments have been tried, but almost all 
 proved unsuccessful. I, at one time, made several myself, 
 the results of some of which I submitted to Captain Miles, 
 Admiral Berkeley, Sir Charles Napier, &c., and they 
 were found very good. They were then about a month 
 old, but the time the government wished for the test 
 was a twelvemonth. I was certain they would keep any 
 length of time, but as I was then very much engaged at 
 the Reform Club, and also writing my cookery-book, The 
 Modern Housewife , I did not pursue it further. The prin- 
 cipal improvement in my method was the omission of the 
 liquids previously introduced, either broth or water. I 
 only put the meat in well seasoned, and left it to cook 
 slowly in its own gravy ; and when opened, it turned 
 out surrounded by a firm jelly, and cut solid.” 
 
 “ I should advise you to turn your immediate attention 
 to that subject.” 
 
 “ I will, my Lord, as soon as time permits. I shall now 
 go and see your kitchen, and pay a visit to your chef de 
 cuisine .” 
 
 “ Pray do, and see whether you can contrive to im- 
 prove it. I believe it is a very bad one, for he is always 
 complaining. When you return, lunch will be upon 
 the table, and you can take some refreshment.” 
 
 Thanking Lord Raglan for his extreme kindness, I 
 took my leave. I was anxious to see Colonel Steele, 
 i>o inform him of the result of my interview ; but as 
 
THE ECCENTRIC LOUIS. 
 
 209 
 
 lie was out, I proceeded to the kitchen, which was 
 some distance from the house, across the courtyard. 
 The chef had gone to Kamiesch to market : I there- 
 fore postponed my visit, and returned to the dining- 
 room to take some refreshment. Afterwards I went 
 in search of Doctor Hall, whom at last I had the 
 good fortune to find at home, if such a small place 
 could he called a home. It was about ten feet square, 
 and the height of a sentry-box, affording about 
 enough room for four persons to stand up in, and 
 only for two to sit down. This petit chalet was for all 
 that nicely furnished, and the spot where most of the 
 hospital business was transacted both for the East and 
 the Crimea,, it being the general head-quarters for the 
 various medical departments. Such was the habitation, 
 office, and chateau of the present Sir John Hall. 
 
 At the door I was received by his major-domo, a 
 Frenchman named Louis, a very intelligent man, and one 
 as well known in the camp from his extraordinary look, 
 shrewdness, eccentricity, and style of riding, as the doctor 
 himself. On alighting, Louis took my horse by the 
 bridle, and walking to the entrance, introduced me to 
 the doctor, who was very busy writing. He got up and 
 requested me to enter, which I did. 
 
 “ Pray be seated. Monsieur Soyer — I am very happy 
 to see you. I heard of your arrival, and also of your 
 former visits.” 
 
 “ To-day, doctor, I have been more fortunate.” 
 
 “ You see, Monsieur Soyer, I have so many places to 
 visit every day, particularly in the morning, that I am 
 very seldom at home.” 
 
 I could but smile at the word “ home,” which, as my 
 readers will understand by my description, was but a 
 humble one. Such was the general amount of luxury in 
 the establishments in the Crimea. 
 
 “ As I am aware, doctor, of the value of your time, do 
 not let me disturb you in the least. A few minutes will 
 settle our business. First of all, I have a letter of intro- 
 duction from Dr. Cumming.” 
 
 “ Let me see it.” 
 
 p 
 
210 
 
 EEENCH HEAD- QTJ AETEES . 
 
 It contained only a few lines, and was to the following 
 
 effect : — 
 
 To Be. Hall, Chief of the Medical Department , Crimea . 
 
 Deae Sie, — Monsieur Soyer, who you are well aware has rendered 
 us important service in the culinary department of our hospitals on 
 the Bosphorus, prior to going to the Crimea begs of me to give 
 him a letter of introduction to you. Hoping that his services may 
 prove as successful in the Crimea as they have been here, 
 
 I remain, dear Sir, yours faithfully, 
 
 Be. Gumming. 
 
 When Dr. Hall had read the letter, and expressed his 
 satisfaction at the contents, I related the result of my 
 interview with the Commander-in-chief, and my desire 
 to visit the camp hospitals with the doctor at his earliest 
 convenience. Dr. Hall immediately fixed the next day 
 for the purpose, and kindly offered to send a pony for me 
 about eight the next morning. 
 
 After having exchanged the usual compliments, we 
 parted. Before I left, the doctor called Louis and gave 
 him the order for the pony. As it was only three o’clock, 
 and I had a few hours to spare, I felt inclined to visit 
 the French camp, in order to compare their system of 
 cooking with that in use among the English, as well as 
 to make some inquiries about their provisions. 
 
 The French head-quarters did not bear the slightest 
 resemblance to the English. The pile was entirely con- 
 structed of wood, and thus gave a wide scope to the 
 architects to distinguish themselves in the modern science 
 of joining and building, and to render as convenient and 
 comfortable as possible this seat of important business 
 transactions. It was in fact a well-built village, of which 
 the General-in-chief was the lord; and, though not gaudy, 
 still luxuriously comfortable, with every department 
 distinct and well arranged. This was, to a certain extent, 
 the case at the English head-quarters, but a farm did not 
 afford sufficient space and accommodation. At the com- 
 mencement of the campaign, it was no uncommon thing 
 for a general to rest from the fatigues of war in a small 
 
CORDIAL RECEPTION. 
 
 211 
 
 dilapidated room something like a good-sized English 
 pig-sty. 
 
 The French head-quarters, like the English, were 
 surrounded by the staff and principal business offices, 
 which, though answering the same purpose, presented 
 quite a different appearance. In the arrangement of the 
 offices and the manners of the inhabitants, one could in 
 fact distinguish France from England, and England from 
 France. 
 
 The vicinity was well guarded — several regiments being 
 encamped round that select group of habitations. It 
 was only with a silver key one could open the doors of 
 the field kitchens and popottes, which key was always to 
 be found at the regimental canteen. A few bottles of 
 wine, glasses of absinthe or vermouth, were enough to 
 initiate me in less than two hours in all that I required 
 to know relating to my mission. 
 
 After settling my account with three or four coquettish 
 and cavalier-like vivandieres , wishing them all the com- 
 mercial prosperity imaginable, and shaking hands with 
 several companies of the various regiments, including 
 those of the Imperial Guard, who had just arrived, I 
 cheerfully retired with the gratification of having con- 
 quered a portion of the elite of the French armies — of 
 course, I only mean in pure friendship. Moreover, I 
 gained most honourable titles, from lieutenant to captain, 
 colonel, and now and then general. At all events, my 
 passport through that important part of the French camp 
 was signed by several hundreds of those brave fellows, as 
 well as by innumerable smiles from the fair and dark 
 heroines, the cantinieres of the first French division. 
 With a promise to return soon, I retired, having expe- 
 rienced much gratification and enriched my budget of 
 anecdote. 
 
 In this interesting visit to the French camp, head- 
 quarters, canteens, &c., and becoming well acquainted 
 with the officers* and soldiers* popottes — which name I 
 immediately added to my gastronomic Gill of fare — the 
 three hours I had to spare nearly expired. The sun was 
 
212 
 
 AU HEVOIR. 
 
 rapidly descending to the level of the ocean in the direc- 
 tion of Kamiesch. 
 
 Having paid my hill at the canteen, and shaken hands 
 with nearly a whole regiment, I jumped on my pony 
 and galloped all the way home, perfectly satisfied with 
 my day’s work, which at the time 1 felt was one of the 
 most interesting of my life. 
 
213 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 A UNIVERSAL CALAMITY. 
 
 Miss Nightingale dangerously ill — Her removal to the Sanatorium 
 — Worst form of Crimean fever — General consternation — Con- 
 versation with the Captain — Better news — Visit the Sanatorium 
 — Disembarkation of the Sardinians — Bridge over the London 
 — Admiral Boxer — Act as interpreter — Overwhelmed with com- 
 plaints — Soda-water for horses — All right at last — Alexandrian 
 horse-flesh — A character — An interesting ride — The General 
 Hospital — Reasons for my return to Turkey — Letters — Head- 
 quarters again — Lord Raglan’s anxiety for Miss Nightingale — 
 Return to Balaklava — Admiral Boxer and the Sardinians — All in 
 the wrong — Quieted at last. 
 
 Alas ! how short are the moments in which real happiness 
 favours us with its charms, and how quickly it deserts one 
 in the midst of mirth and j oy ! On this eventful day, I was 
 doomed to experience the truth of the saying that “ sorrow 
 treads upon the heels of joy;” for I had scarcely set my 
 foot upon the deck of the London , when P. M. came and 
 apprised me that Miss Nightingale was not expected to 
 live. It appeared that after my departure she had a 
 terrible attack of fever, and was obliged to be imme- 
 diately removed to the hospital. On asking to which 
 establishment this excellent lady had been taken, I 
 was told the Sanatorium. P. M. continued, “ Several 
 doctors, Mr. and Mrs. Braceb ridge, and myself, accom- 
 panied her there — I have only been back a few minutes.” 
 “Why did you not take her to the General Hospital? 
 It was much nearer.” 
 
 “ Don't you know that cholera is raging there ?” 
 
 “ There certainly are a few cases. Do you think I can 
 do anything for her?” 
 
 “No, I am sure you cannot; she is not allowed to 
 take anything, and the doctors have forbidden any one 
 to be admitted, except her private nurse, Mrs. Roberts.” 
 
A MELANCHOLY PUOCESSION. 
 
 9 1 A, 
 
 It was then getting late — Mr. Bracebridge had not 
 returned. The captain and P. M. gave me a full account 
 of this lamentable event. It appeared that about noon 
 Miss Wear had come on board to see Miss Nightin- 
 gale upon business. She found that lady very poorly, 
 but thinking it was a slight indisposition, took no notice 
 of it, more especially as Miss Nightingale did not com- 
 plain in the least. About two, by the orders of Mrs. 
 .Roberts, they were obliged to send in a great hurry for 
 a doctor. Mrs. Roberts stated that her mistress had 
 been suddenly taken dangerously ill — that she was in 
 fact attacked by the worst form of Crimean fever. The 
 first thing ordered by the doctor was her instant removal 
 to the hospital on the heights. 
 
 “ So,” said the captain, who was relating this part of 
 the sad history, “I set all my men to work. We got a 
 stretcher from the hospital, and she was carried very 
 carefully by my men and some soldiers sent by the 
 governor.” 
 
 “I followed through Balaklava,” said P. M., “amidst 
 a regular procession of soldiers, holding a white umbrella 
 over her face. The crowd was so great, we could 
 scarcely pass, and it took us nearly an hour to get 
 up to the heights. I assure you, all Balaklava was in an 
 uproar.” 
 
 “ What do the doctors say of the case ?” 
 
 “ That the lady is dangerously ill, and that no one 
 must go near her, not even Mr. Bracebridge.” 
 
 “ What mournful tidings !” I said. “ I should not be 
 surprised if she caught the fever from the patient at 
 Dr. Henderson's. I warned her of the danger of exposing 
 herself so much several times.” 
 
 “ By-the-bye, where is Mr. Bracebridge ?” 
 
 “ I left him there.” 
 
 “ Does he intend to come back, or stay where he is ?” 
 “ I don’t know, but I do not see what good he can do 
 there.” 
 
 “ I hope we shall hear better news when he returns.” 
 “ Now, Mr. Sover, tell us about vour visit to head- 
 quarters. Did you see Lord Raglan?” 
 
PLANS DEFEATED. 
 
 215 
 
 "•Certainly I did.” 
 
 "And how were you received?” asked the captain. 
 
 "Admirably,” I replied. 
 
 " I hear his lordship is a most amiable and kind man.” 
 
 " He is indeed^ I assure you; and I cannot but express 
 my gratitude for the reception he afforded me. I am 
 certain he will be very sorry to hear of Miss Nightin- 
 gale's serious and sudden illness, for lie inquired very 
 kindly after her this morning.” 
 
 My companions made many more inquiries respect- 
 ing the events of the day ; but I had forgotten all, I 
 was so absorbed by this unexpected blow. It seemed 
 likely to upset all our plans. I spoke to the captain 
 of the several visits Miss Nightingale had paid to the 
 sick officer at Dr. Henderson's at the time he was so 
 dangerously ill, remarking upon her neglect of herself 
 by going all day without refreshment, and braving all 
 weathers. We could not help noticing how singular it 
 appeared, that after her hard labours at Scutari, and 
 escaping both the cholera and fevers which raged there, 
 she should be so suddenly taken ill at Balaklava. It 
 was indeed very melancholy and remarkable. At last 
 Mr. Bracebridge returned. He informed us that Miss 
 Nightingale was a little better, but that such a violent 
 case of fever required a certain time. " Mrs. Roberts,” 
 he continued, " is with her, and the boy to go for the 
 doctor, in case he should be needed.” 
 
 " Poor boy !” said the captain, " how he cried 
 when he saw his mistress carried upon a stretcher by 
 soldiers !” 
 
 "Yes,” said Mr. Bracebridge, "he is a very affec- 
 tionate lad.” 
 
 After a few questions about my visit to Lord. Raglan, 
 being all very much fagged, we retired for the night. Upon 
 that occasion, owing to excessive fatigue and the absence 
 of rats, which had at length been successfully turned out 
 of my cabin without making use of my receipt, I 
 enjoyed a comfortable night's rest. The next morning, 
 at eight precisely, Louis was at his post with the pony, 
 of which I could not, however, make use, not knowing 
 
216 
 
 GENERAL SYMPATHY. 
 
 what alteration Miss Nightingale’s illness might cause 
 at both hospitals, where, no doubt, my presence would 
 be required. I sent Dr. Hall a note, apologizing for not 
 waiting upon him that day, and postponing our visit 
 to the day following, if agreeable to him. Louis 
 promised to send me an answer at five o’clock by the 
 doctor’s courier. No news had been received at the 
 General Hospital from the Sanatorium; therefore Mr. 
 Bracebridge and myself went up the first thing, instead 
 of going to Mr. Upton, as we had previously arranged. 
 On our arrival, the report was anything but favourable ; 
 and this seemed to paralyse all our energies. Indeed, 
 for a few days no business of consequence was transacted. 
 My kitchen at the Sanatorium alone progressed. I 
 offered my services to Drs. Henderson and Hadley, in case 
 I could be of use to Miss Nightingale. Dr. Henderson 
 said, "I am the only cook she requires at present. We 
 must wait nearly a week before I can leave her in your 
 hands, even should her illness take a favourable turn.” 
 I then begged of him to give me his private opinion of 
 her state. 
 
 “ She is suffering, I assure you, Monsieur Soyer, from 
 as bad an attack of fever as I have seen ; but I should say 
 the chances are in her favour, because she does not fret, 
 in the slightest degree, but is perfectly composed.” 
 
 On calling at the General Hospital for Dr. Hall’s 
 reply, I found that he had fixed the same time the next 
 day for our visit. We then returned on board the London . 
 Many inquiries respecting Miss Nightingale had been 
 made by almost all the authorities, amongst whom were 
 Sir John Macneil, Captain Tulloch, Admiral Boxer, 
 the Governor, Commissary Filder, and Dr. Sutherland. 
 The latter went at once to see her. Finding she had all 
 proper attention, he came in the evening, and requested 
 us to leave her as quiet as possible. He told Mr. Brace- 
 bridge on no account to go near her, not even if sent 
 for, as any excitement might be fatal. This request 
 was of course punctually attended to. 
 
 The remainder of the Sardinian army had now arrived. 
 The disembarkation kept the harbour in a constant 
 
BRIDGE OVER THE “ LONDON.” 217 
 
 bustle, mornings noon, and night. It was, in fact, a 
 real maritime bivouac, and our vessel very much re- 
 sembled the famed metropolis from which it takes its 
 name. During the night a strong bridge was built over 
 it, communicating with the shore on the one side, and 
 one of the Sardinian ships, which had been towed along- 
 side, on the other. This was made for the purpose of 
 landing men and horses. At five in the morning I was 
 up and on deck, as from the noise it was impossible to 
 sleep. The first person on board was Admiral Boxer, as 
 busy as could be, giving his orders. On seeing me, he 
 inquired about Miss Nightingale. 
 
 “What a good job,” said he, “they were able to 
 remove her from here !” 
 
 “ You are right, admiral. I perceive you are about to 
 put the troops from one of the vessels on shore.” 
 
 “ From one, say you ? I am landing the whole of the 
 Sardinian army, and some of our own troops besides.” 
 “At any rate, I think this is one of the greatest 
 curiosities of the Crimean war.” 
 
 “ Why ?” asked the admiral, talking to twenty others 
 at the time. 
 
 “Why, admiral, pray who would have thought of 
 seeing while in the Crimea a Sardinian army cross 
 London Bridge?” 
 
 “Ha! ha! ha! true enough; that’s not bad; singular 
 things are seen and done in time of war. What do you 
 think of their soldiers, Monsieur Soyer?” 
 
 “ Fine fellows !” 
 
 “ They are fine fellows. But I wish they spoke 
 English — we should get on much quicker.” 
 
 “ I’ll speak to them for you, if you like, admiral.” 
 
 “ Ah, to be sure, so you can.” 
 
 I immediately set about acting as interpreter between 
 the English admiral and the Sardinian captains. In his 
 anxiety to get rid of them as quickly as possible, Admiral 
 Boxer asked whether they had pretty much what they 
 required; a question which brought about ten com- 
 plainants on deck, who surrounded me. One had no 
 hay, barley, or water for his horses. They all spoke at 
 
218 
 
 NEW DRINK EOR HORSES. 
 
 the same time, and made a hubbub which could only be 
 feebly imitated at the Paris Stock Exchange. 
 
 “What’s all this row about? This will never do,” 
 said the admiral. “ Pray don’t tell them who I am, or 
 they will bother my life out.” 
 
 “ I have told them, and that’s why they are making 
 such a row. I asked them, as you wished me, whether 
 they had everything they wanted.” 
 
 “ I said pretty much what they wanted.” 
 
 “ I know you did, admiral, and so I told them ; but 
 they say they don’t know the meaning of that.” 
 
 “ Tell them they are fine fellows — fine fellows, and 
 that there is a beautiful camp ready for them, where 
 they will find everything they require, without any 
 drawback. I will send lots of men to wait upon them 
 directly ; but they must get out of the harbour before 
 night.” 
 
 General della Marmora sent for the admiral; so he 
 left me to settle the matter, which I did in a very few 
 words. 
 
 “ My dear fellows,” said I to them, “ your valuable 
 services will be much better appreciated by your sove- 
 reign and General-in-chief if you put up with a little 
 inconvenience for the present, and remain quiet, than if, 
 on the contrary, you are too particular.” 
 
 “ Do you know, monsieur, that our horses have not 
 had a drop of water to-day ?” 
 
 “ Colonel,” said I, “ I am not at all surprised at that; 
 and more, you must put up with it.” 
 
 “ Why ?” he asked. 
 
 “ Simply because you can’t get it, unless you like to 
 do as I did yesterday — give them soda-water.” 
 
 “ Do you mean to say there is no water at all in this 
 grand vessel ?” 
 
 “ None, except soda-water.” 
 
 “ Eh bien,” said another, “ give de soda-water alors.” 
 “ What, for the horses ?” 
 
 “ Gui, for the chevals !” 
 
 “ Here, my man,” said I to one of the crew, “tell the 
 steward to bring a dozen of soda-water for the colonel’s 
 
LOUIS AND IIIS CHARGED. 
 
 219 
 
 horse. Mind, colonel, it costs a shilling a bottle ; but, 
 as you are a good customer, and take a dozen, no doubt 
 he will let you have it cheaper.” 
 
 “1 will not pay a sou for this bubbling water. I 
 know what you mean. It fizzes like champagne, but it 
 is not good to drink. The horses will never touch it. I 
 thought it was spring-water that you called soda-water.” 
 At all events, the soda-water was brought, to the great 
 annoyance of the colonel, who thought he should have to 
 pay for it ; but I sent for some sherry and a few glasses, 
 and we drank a bottle or two, instead of giving it to 
 the horses, to the great gratification of the colonel, who, 
 after partaking of it, said he liked it much better with 
 sherry than brandy. About twenty banabaks soon after 
 arrived with water in skins and leathern horse-buckets. 
 The horses were properly watered ; and thus ended the 
 Sardinian revolt in the harbour of Balaklava, on the 
 14th of May, in the year 1855, beneath the ruins of the 
 Genoese Tower and fortifications built by their ancestors. 
 
 The Sardinian troops and horses soon after crossed new 
 London Bridge; by eight o’clock I was mounting my 
 horse to go and meet Dr. Hall. The troops that had 
 then landed were in full march towards their very 
 picturesque camp at the top of the mountain ; a band of 
 music was playing at their head, and their artillery 
 train and baggage-waggons followed. The weather was 
 brilliant, and the heat of the sun intense. Louis was 
 mounted upon a fine black horse, which the doctor had 
 brought from Alexandria. Nobody but Louis could ride 
 him, on account of his tricks. His appearance was 
 worthy of the finest circus in the world for the per- 
 formance of the high school of equitation. To this 
 splendid animal Louis owed his reputation and popularity; 
 and, as he lived at head- quarters, all the Staff knew him. 
 It is hardly possible to describe his personal appearance. 
 He was short in stature, with extraordinary large ears ; 
 his long moustaches, hair, and eyebrows were between 
 the colour of a canary bird and that of the dun pony I 
 was riding. His dress was of a similar colour, with the 
 exception of his cap, which was, if possible, of an intenser 
 
220 
 
 A CHAHACTEH. 
 
 yellow. This contrast of colours in an individual mounted 
 upon such a splendid charger, caused him to be remarked 
 by every one throughout the camp. 
 
 Our ride seemed very short, for Louis, who is a very 
 clever fellow, was full of anecdote, and related some that 
 were really very amusing. He spoke several languages, 
 frequently mingling one with another. He spoke his own 
 language, the French, worse than any other, he had been 
 so long away from his native land. He was present at 
 the battles of Alma, Balaldava, Inkermann, and the 
 Tchernaya, where his charger was wounded close to the 
 Traktir Bridge, he, as usual during an action, keeping in 
 close attendance on his brave master, more especially if 
 danger was imminent ; and no better fate had he at the 
 battle of Inkermann, where he was seriously wounded in 
 the leg, and the traces of both wounds are, I regret to say, 
 still apparent. On the eve of my departure from the seat 
 of war, I, out of veneration for this once splendid charger, 
 purchased him of his owner, who would probably have 
 been obliged to abandon his faithful steed to the tender 
 mercies of the hungry inhabitants, who, doubtless, had 
 they got him in their clutches, would have given him a 
 dressing a la Tartare, or perhaps converted his body into 
 those suspicious articles of food, sausages. On his voyage 
 home, in charge of a careful groom, Neptune had no 
 more respect for this four-legged hero than for the 
 commonest quadruped ; for not only was he pitched, bit, 
 and tossed about in all directions, but worse still, when 
 the ship Clarendon arrived off Cadiz, she struck on a 
 sunken rock, and the most valueless animals were thrown 
 overboard ; but “Inkermann,” with his usual luck, in spite 
 of Mars and Neptune, escaped the plunge taken by his less 
 fortunate companions, and is now in London, enjoying, 
 as hitherto, his full feed, though in the profoundest 
 retirement, having sold out of the army. Louis spoke 
 very highly of his master, and never seemed to be pleased 
 or displeased at anything — good news, bad, or indifferent, 
 were all the same to him. If you said to him, “ The 
 weather is very bad,” he would answer, “ I have nothing 
 to do with that, no more than if it were fine.” On 
 
INSPECTION OP HOSPITALS. 
 
 <V(v 1 
 
 asking him, at our first interview, if he was a French- 
 man, “Of course I am,” he replied; “all my family 
 were Frenchmen.” I must say that, with all his eccen- 
 tricity, he was very obliging; and I feel very grateful 
 for the kind attentions he paid me, particularly during 
 my serious illness, when he often visited me. Upon our 
 arrival, the doctor’s horse was at the door, and his master 
 soon made his appearance. 
 
 “ Good morning, Doctor ! I fear we are behind time.” 
 “ I can always employ my time here,” said he, looking 
 at his watch ; “ you are only a few minutes late.” 
 
 We then started. Louis asked whether he was to 
 accompany us; to which the doctor answered, “No: I 
 expect Dr. Henderson from Balaklava, so be in the way ; 
 tell him we are gone to the General Hospital.” 
 
 During our ride, I told my companion about the Sar- 
 dinian insurrection near our new London Bridge, which 
 seemed to amuse him very much. He informed me that 
 Miss Nightingale had passed a better night, but was far 
 from being out of danger. The cannon of Sebastopol 
 made a fearful noise. 
 
 “Have you seen Sebastopol yet, Monsieur Soyer?” 
 “Yes, I have, Doctor, and was rather close, too and 
 I related our Nightingale campaign. 
 
 “ To-day you will have another view, quite as good r 
 though not so dangerous.” 
 
 We then began talking upon business, and I was 
 speaking of my having visited the military and civil hos- 
 pitals in France, when Dr. Henderson galloped after us, 
 and a conversation ensued relative to the arrival of the 
 armies, and the fact that many of the men had been 
 attacked by fever, before their hospitals were ready. 
 Dr. Hall decided upon a course of action, and we 
 alighted at the General Hospital. The doctor, Mr. 
 Mouatt, was unfortunately out, but was expected back 
 shortly. Dr. Henderson left us, and I accompanied Dr. 
 Hall round several huts. He visited all the worst cases, 
 which were at that time very numerous. We then 
 repaired to the kitchen, which, as I have before said,, 
 was far from being equal to the requirements of such 
 
222 
 
 IMPORTANT CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 an immense hospital. It was in the open air, and 
 ill provided with things necessary for the establish- 
 ment. Having pointed this out to Dr. Hall, he 
 immediately agreed that one similar to that at the 
 Sanatorium should be erected; but Dr. Mouatt was 
 not present. The want of materials asd of workmen 
 was so great, that, previous to its erection, I was obliged 
 to leave the Crimea and return to Scutari for a short 
 time. My head man there had been taken ill, and his 
 life was, as he thought, in great danger. Several times 
 prior to my return he had threatened to run away, which 
 would quite have upset all my former efforts. 
 
 I remained in the Crimea about ten days longer, and 
 my reader will perceive that every minute of my time was 
 occupied. I devoted some of it to the most important 
 hospital of all — the one before Sebastopol; a plan for the 
 improvement of which I immediately made and forwarded 
 to the proper parties, so much was I impressed with the 
 necessity of having a kitchen erected immediately. Fear- 
 ing that I should be obliged to leave the Crimea for 
 Scutari before it could be even commenced, the day 
 after my visit I wrote two official letters, one to Lord 
 Raglan, and the other to Dr. Hall. The General-in-chief 
 and Dr. Hall had both visited the spot, and agreed with 
 me that it was one of the most important hospitals in 
 the East. It was situated under the very walls of 
 Sebastopol, subject to a divided attack, or to a sortie , and 
 might at any moment be suddenly encumbered with a 
 large number of wounded, requiring a great quantity 
 of nutritious articles, more particularly beverages, after 
 any surgical operation. In reply I received the following 
 communications : — 
 
 Before Sevastopol, 30 th May, 1855. 
 
 Sir, — I am directed by Lord Raglan to acknowledge the receipt 
 of your several communications of the 25th and 28th instants, and to 
 express to you his lordship’s thanks for the valuable information 
 contained therein. 
 
 I have the honor to be, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 Tnos. Steele, 
 
 Lieut.- Col., Military Sec . 
 
 Mons. Soyer. 
 
GOOD NEWS. 
 
 223 
 
 My dear Mr. Soyer, — I liave this day received your letter of the 
 22nd June, and am much obliged to you for your thoughtful care of 
 our wants in the all-important business of cooking for both sick and 
 well. Our new hospital is nearly fit for the reception of patients ; but 
 you know how tedious the want of labor makes everything here. I 
 was out at the Monastery yesterday, and was glad to see that they had 
 commenced on the kitchen, and were going to fit it up after your 
 excellent model at the Castle. 
 
 Very truly yours, 
 
 5t7i July , 1855. J. Hall. 
 
 I also had several interviews with Dr. Mouatt, who 
 took my suggestion during my absence in hand, but never 
 apparently succeeded in carrying it out, although the 
 materials requisite were simply planks, nails, and bricks. 
 
 I merely advert to the foregoing in answer to some 
 observations that were wafted about the camp to the 
 effect that I never took much trouble about this par- 
 ticular hospital, while in reality it was the very first 
 which attracted my attention, as the above letters will 
 convince my readers. 
 
 Upon our return from the hospital to head-quarters, I 
 called at Colonel Steele’s. Lord Raglan was just going 
 out, and the first question he asked, even before I had 
 time to pay my respects, was — “ How is poor Miss 
 Nightingale ?” 
 
 “ A little better to-day. Dr. Henderson, whom I have 
 just seen, says she has passed a better night.” 
 
 “ Well, I hope she has ; I shall pay her a visit as soon 
 as possible — that is, when she is a little better. Was she 
 ill at all at Scutari ?” 
 
 “Not, my Lord, while I was there, and, I think, 
 not before. It is rather remarkable that she should 
 catch the Crimean fever just after her arrival.” 
 
 I told Lord Raglan of her imprudence in visiting a 
 patient at Dr. Henderson’s, who had been attacked by 
 the worst form of Crimean fever ; also, of her remaining 
 out so late, and not taking any refreshment. 
 
 “ She appears,” said Lord Raglan, “ to have no fear.” 
 
 “ None whatever.” 
 
 I recounted her visit to the three-gun battery, and 
 the scene that took place upon the centre mortar. Lord 
 
224 
 
 A MARVELLOUS CHANGE. 
 
 Raglan remarked — “It should be called the Nightingale 
 mortar.” 
 
 He then jumped upon his horse, and I had but a 
 few minutes to explain the result of my visit with 
 Dr. Hall to the various hospitals. I mentioned that 
 the most important thing was the immediate erection of 
 a kitchen for the General Hospital, in case of a decided 
 attack upon Sebastopol. 
 
 “ Very true, Monsieur Soyer,” said Lord Raglan. 
 
 I stated that I had addressed a letter to his lord- 
 ship to that effect. 
 
 “Yes, I have seen it, and it shall be attended to.” 
 
 Lord Raglan and his staff then started in the direction 
 of the French head-quarters, and I towards Balaklava, 
 where I arrived about dusk. I left my pony at the 
 General Hospital, and walked to the opposite side of the 
 harbour, which I had in the morning left all in confusion, 
 and, to my astonishment, found quiet and almost deserted. 
 The only person I saw was Admiral Boxer, who came and 
 thanked me for the assistance I had given him in the 
 morning. 
 
 “Don't mention it, admiral,” said I; “I shall at all 
 times be happy to do everything in my power to render 
 myself agreeable to you. Pray tell me, where are they 
 all gone ?” 
 
 “ To their camp, to be sure.” 
 
 “What — regiments, horses, and all?” 
 
 “Yes, the vessels alongside this morning have not 
 only discharged their cargoes, but are, I believe, out of 
 the harbour and anchored in the bay. We shall have 
 two more in, which must be discharged to-morrow.” 
 
 “This silence is almost inconceivable after so much 
 noise and bustle.” 
 
 “It is,” said the admiral. “I don't understand those 
 Sardinians, they speak so fast and loud ; but they are 
 fine fellows for all that, and no mistake.” 
 
 The words were hardly out of his mouth, when two 
 Sardinians attached to the commissariat came towards 
 us, and inquired whether we understood French or 
 Italian. I informed them that I spoke French. 
 
CROSS- QUESTIONING. 
 
 9 9* 
 
 “Then, pray, sir, can you tell us where to find ce 
 (liable d’amiral Anglais?** 
 
 “ What do they say ?** asked Admiral Boxer, address- 
 ing me. 
 
 “Nothing particular/* I replied. “Gentlemen/* said 
 I, turning to the Sardinians, “what could the admiral 
 do for you ? It is very probable that I shall have the 
 pleasure of seeing him this evening/* 
 
 The one who had as yet scarcely spoken exclaimed — 
 “ A truce to the pleasure ! I wish I could get hold of 
 him, I would tell him my mind in a few words/* 
 
 “ Pray be calm, gentlemen/* 
 
 All this time Admiral Boxer kept asking — “ What do 
 they say? They are speaking about me, I know they 
 are. Tell them they are a fine set of fellows, and I will 
 do anything for them, but they must be out by to- 
 morrow night.** 
 
 “Very well; byt first let me inquire what the row is 
 all about/* 
 
 “ Do so.** 
 
 “ Now, gentlemen, what is it you want ? for here is a 
 person who can do as much for you as the admiral him- 
 self, and perhaps more.** 
 
 “Ah, pray ask him, then.** 
 
 “ But 3m u have not yet told me what you require.** 
 “Eh bien !** they said, both speaking at once, “pray, 
 my friend, ask this gentleman to tell the English 
 admiral to postpone the order for our landing to-morrow 
 morning till the next day. It is impossible for us to 
 land our men and horses so early. We have above four 
 hundred horses on board ; not half of which have been 
 watered to-day, nor can they be, till we find some water. 
 There is only a small pump to draw it from the hold of 
 the vessel, and it takes hours to water a few horses/* 
 Having explained this their chief trouble to the 
 admiral, he said — “Tell them there will be plenty of 
 water for them by four o*clock in the morning/* 
 
 When I had done so, they inquired whether they 
 could depend upon that gentieman*s word. I assured 
 them that they might. 
 
228 
 
 A GOOD OFFICER. 
 
 “ With respect to the other matters, we ought to see 
 the admiral himself.” 
 
 “ Oh, don't trouble yourself ; I will do the rest for you.” 
 This was merely a request concerning themselves. I 
 did not like to trouble the admiral about it, and I 
 thought the best way to get rid of them was to show 
 them his flag-ship, telling them they might go there if 
 they liked, but that it was a hundred to one if they 
 found him on board. 
 
 “ No, no !” said one of them ; “ it is dinner-time, and 
 the English like their dinner too well ; he is sure to be at 
 home, so we will go and see.” Having their boat with 
 them, they went across. 
 
 The admiral asked — “ What do they want besides the 
 water for their horses ?” 
 
 “ Oh, they were inquiring about the camp.” 
 
 I then related all our conversation, at which the 
 admiral laughed heartily, saying hq could understand 
 some of it, but they spoke so very fast. 
 
 “ When they come on board to-morrow, they will be 
 sure to recognise me.” 
 
 “ Oh no ! having only seen you in the dark, they will 
 not know you again ; and I shall be there. Don't trouble 
 yourself ; they will be quiet enough when they get all 
 they want, and they have a very fine camp.” 
 
 “ Have you seen it ?” 
 
 “No, admiral, not yet.” 
 
 “ Then you ought to go and see it ; they are building 
 a large hospital there. Mind, they have reason to com- 
 plain. 1 am aware they ought to have more time; but 
 see what a fleet I have in such a small harbour, and 
 every day there are more troops coming. Perhaps an 
 expedition of our own troops will sail shortly, so I must 
 be prepared for everything. That is what has kept me 
 on this side of the harbour to-night; besides, I wished 
 to see how they were going on with the new quay.” 
 
 “ You have done wonders, admiral, on this side of the 
 harbour since my arrival.” 
 
 “Remember, Monsieur Soyer, we cannot always do as we 
 like. We are not in England.” We parted for the night. 
 
227 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 HAPS AND MISHAPS IN CAMP. 
 
 Dinner on board tlie Paraguay d’llilliers — Bread-biscuit — Good 
 news of Miss Nightingale — Operations at the Sanatorium kitchen 
 — A borrowed pony — Don’t lose the saddle — No police nor news- 
 papers — Difficulties at Balaklava — Dry vegetables in cake — A 
 receipt — Promise of support — A new mother — Mrs. Seacole’s 
 enthusiasm — The lady’s sons — Advice — My pony lost — A friend 
 in need— Mr. Russell — Mr. Angel — Crimean Hue and Cry — 
 Useless inquiries — Monsieur Arman d’s difficulties — A dinner at 
 the Post-office — A jovial party — Festivity and song — Break up 
 at last. 
 
 Ox reaching the London , I found Mr. Bracebridge 
 dressed and waiting for me to go and dine on board 
 the Baraguay d’llilliers , with Sir John Maeneil and 
 Captain Tulioch. We had that evening a most inte- 
 resting conversation on all kinds of army stores and 
 provisions. Sir John, who took a vital interest in my 
 mission, gave me several important hints, and I sub- 
 mitted my opinion of the salt as well as fresh meats — 
 fresh and dried vegetables, and especially the bread, 
 which at that period arrived daily from Constantinople, 
 but which, in consequence of its being sometimes put 
 on board ship before it had got quite cool, lost a great 
 deal of its nutritive quality during the passage. Had 
 it been made in the Crimea of the same materials, 
 it would have been very good. I was informed that 
 bakeries were to be established. I told Sir John that I 
 had made a kind of bread-biscuit, somewhat like common 
 bread, but baked in flat cakes about twelve times the 
 size of an ordinary biscuit ; it would keep for months, 
 and then eat well, though rather dry ; it would soak 
 \vell in tea, coffee, or soup, and be very palatable ; it 
 was made of three parts flour and one of peameal, and 
 
 Q2 
 
228 
 
 BREAD-BISCUIT. 
 
 was reported upon by the medical gentlemen as being very 
 nutritious and wholesome. A few days later I had the 
 pleasure of showing some to those gentlemen, and they 
 both highly approved of it. I afterwards had some made 
 on board the Abundance . I submitted it to them, and 
 they pronounced it excellent. * 
 
 The evening we spent on board the Paraguay 
 d’Hilliers will not be soon forgotten. After a short 
 nautical and nocturnal trip upon the water, we arrived 
 safely in our old London . On our way to the Baraguay 
 d’Hilliers, Mr. Bracebridge informed me that Miss 
 Nightingale was pronounced out of danger, and that 
 the news had been telegraphed to London. The 
 medical men were of opinion that she should return to 
 Scutari, and after a few days* rest proceed to England. 
 Although out of danger, she would not be able to quit 
 Balaklava for eight or ten days. The next morning, at 
 seven o’clock, I was at the Sanatorium kitchen, which 
 was finished. I set my soldier-cooks to work, and all 
 went on admirably. It was then ten o’clock, so I called 
 upon Dr. Hadley (the chief doctor at the Sanatorium, 
 who had succeeded Dr. Henderson, and to both of these 
 gentlemen I must return my sincere thanks for their 
 assistance and kindness), and requested him to come and 
 taste some extra diets and soups I had prepared for the 
 convalescents. Recollecting that I had not called upon 
 Lord Raglan’s elief de cuisine , I mentioned the circum- 
 stance to Dr. Hadley, stating how much I wished to do so, 
 but that I had no horse. Dr. Hadley very kindly offered 
 me his pony, a fine grey, smartly caparisoned, which I 
 at once accepted. When I had mounted. Dr. Hadley 
 said — “Soyer, if you fall off, mind and get up again; for,” 
 said he, “ joking apart, though- the pony is very quiet, 
 recollect the road to Balaklava is a queer one, therefore 
 take care of yourself. We should not mind so much if 
 
 * I have such confidence in the nutritive qualities and the im- 
 portance to the army and navy of these bread-biscuits, that I intend 
 to recommend their adoption in both departments. For a campaign 
 they are invaluable; and at sea they would make an excellent 
 change, being as light as bread. 
 
WHOLESOME ADVICE. 
 
 229 
 
 we had done with yon ; but as we really require your 
 services, for our own sates take care of yourself.” 
 
 “ I will do so,” said I, laughing*, “ were it only for the 
 sake of your pony, which might get loose if I were to 
 fall off, and you might not recover him again.” 
 
 “ Never mind the pony,” said he : “ you may lose him ; 
 but, whatever you clo, don’t lose the saddle. We had 
 better have a bit of supper on your return this evening, 
 off that Yorkshire ham — you can cook it on your bivouac 
 stove.” 
 
 “ So we will. Doctor. I shall be back at six.” 
 
 “ Don’t stay in the camp after dark ; I can assure you 
 it is a very dangerous place. Robberies and murders are 
 of frequent occurrence, though we hear but little about 
 them. We have no police, and no newspapers are pub- 
 lished here, so we know nothing but what passes in our 
 own circle.” 
 
 “You are perfectly right, Doctor; though I am not 
 afraid, as I never travel without a revolver ; yet it is best 
 to be upon the safe side.” 
 
 Having fixed upon six o’clock for my return, and seven 
 for supper, I started. There were about twenty con- 
 valescents outside the wards, enjoying the warmth of the 
 sun’s rays. They were all in high glee at hearing our 
 dialogue, which seemed to revive them from a state of 
 lethargy to the consciousness of life. 
 
 The ride from the top of the Genoese heights to 
 Balaklava harbour, by a new road, through mud, over 
 rocks, rivulets, &c., and mounted upon a strange nag, 
 was anything but pleasant to my feelings as a horseman. 
 At all events, after numerous slippery evolutions on 
 the part of my new charger, I found myself safe at the 
 bottom of the ravine ; but here another difficulty pre- 
 sented itself. The quay of the harbour was encumbered 
 with French and Sardinian waggons, mules, and horses. 
 The French, who had a wine depot there for the troops, 
 were strongly fortified with about a hundred pipes of 
 wine, instead of gabions. So crowded was the road from 
 the immense traffic and the unloading of shipping stores, 
 that it took me nearly half-an-hour to ride a few hundred 
 
230 
 
 VEGETABLES IN CAKE. 
 
 yards. This brought me as far as the Commissariat, 
 where I had to call upon Commissary Filder. I found 
 that he had just returned from head- quarters. We had 
 about ten minutes* conversation upon business. I related 
 the result of my visit to the various provision stores — 
 made remarks upon the same, and particularly upon the 
 dry vegetables at that time issued to the troops. He 
 then referred me to Under-Commissary Adams, to whom 
 I promised a scale for a fresh composition of dry vege- 
 tables in cake, more suitable for the troops, in lieu of the 
 finer and more expensive quality then issued in boxes. 
 They were composed of one vegetable only, and were 
 much too highly dried, having thus lost their aroma 
 as well as their nutritious qualities. I therefore pro- 
 posed that the firm of Messrs. Chollet, in Paris, should 
 prepare a sample of cakes of dried vegetables, to be 
 called coarse julienne, for the army. Each hundred- 
 weight of fresh vegetables was to consist of the following 
 proportions : — 
 
 Twenty pounds of carrots, twenty pounds of turnips, 
 ten of parsnips, fifteen of onions, twenty of cabbage, five 
 of celery, and ten of leeks ; with one pound of aromatic 
 seasoning, composed of four ounces of thyme, four of 
 winter savory, two of bayleaf, four of pepper, and an ounce 
 of cloves ; the whole to be pulverized and mixed with the 
 vegetables. 
 
 Each cake was to serve for one hundred men, and to 
 be marked in compartments of ten rations each, like 
 chocolate cakes, instead of being marked upon the 
 wrapper, which is always torn off when the vegetables 
 are issued, and the soldiers cannot tell about quantity. 
 This plan will obviate that evil ; for I had seen in camp 
 piles of this excellent vegetable rising pyramidically from 
 the soldiers* canteen pan while cooking, in consequence 
 of their having put in the best part of three days* rations 
 instead of one. The dry rations are issued for three days 
 at a time. 
 
 My proposition having met with the approval of the 
 authorities, was at once forwarded to the War Office. 
 
 I also promised to submit to Commissary Filder*s 
 
A NEW ACQUAINTANCE. 231 
 
 notice several plans for improvement in tlie distribution 
 of the meat. 
 
 “ Monsieur S oyer / 7 said he, “ anything you may pro- 
 pose or point out as an improvement will, so far as it is 
 practicable, be carried out. Lose no time ; the sooner 
 you let us have it the better . 77 
 
 After this interview, I went to inspect the kitchen, 
 where I saw Mr. Fitzgerald, the purveyor, to whom I 
 also made my report. As this is the first time I have 
 had the pleasure of introducing this gentleman to the 
 notice of my readers, it would be an omission on my part 
 were I not to return my grateful acknowledgments for 
 the readiness with which he at all times assisted me to 
 obtain what I required for the hospitals in the Crimea. 
 It is true he was at first rather reluctant ; this I attri- 
 buted to his not having received the proper instructions 
 from the authorities. 
 
 Having the best part of the day before me, I set off 
 at a gallop towards head-quarters, intending to keep 
 the promise I had made Lord Lag! an respecting his 
 dilapidated culinary department, and also to make the 
 acquaintance of M. Armand, his chef de cuisine . ‘As 
 I was not w^ell acquainted with the road across the 
 country, I made up my mind to follow the high one 
 which passes close to head-quarters. When about half- 
 way, I perceived a group of officers standing by the 
 road-side round a kind of tent much like a gipsy tent, 
 but considerably larger. This excited my interest, and 
 I was riding towards it, when, to my astonishment, 
 several voices called out — “ Soyer ! Soyer ! come here — 
 come this way ! 77 I readily complied with the invitation, 
 and found two or three gentlemen whom I had the 
 pleasure of knowing. During our conversation, an old 
 dame of a jovial appearance, but a few shades darker 
 than the white lily, issued from the tent, bawling out, 
 in order to make her voice heard above the noise, “ Who 
 is my new son ? 77 to which one of the officers replied, 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, to be sure; don 7 t you know him ? 77 
 
 u God. bless me, my son, are you Monsieur Soyer of 
 whom I heard so much in Jamaica ? Well, to he sure l 
 
A GOOD MOTHER. 
 
 I have sold many and many a score of your Relish and 
 other sauces — God knows how many.” 
 
 “My dear lady/* said I, “don’t blame me for that; 
 I assure you I am not at all offended with you for so 
 doing, and shall allow you to sell as much more in the 
 Crimea.” 
 
 “ So I would if I could only get them. Bless me, I had 
 a gross about ten days ago, and they are all gone; nor 
 can I get any more for another month perhaps. Come 
 down, my son, and take a glass of champagne with my 
 old friend. Sir John Campbell.” 
 
 I immediately alighted, and Sir John came towards 
 me and shook me heartily by the hand, saying, “Welcome 
 to the seat of war, Monsieur Soyer !” 
 
 “ Many thanks, general, for your kind wishes. I had 
 the pleasure of leaving my card at Cat-heart's Hill the 
 other day.” 
 
 “ You did ; and I was very sorry that I was out when 
 you called ; but mind, you must come and dine with me 
 some day.” 
 
 “ Thank you, general, I shall do myself the honour.” 
 “Now, Mrs. Seacole, give us another bottle of cham- 
 pagne.” 
 
 “Mrs. Seacole,” I exclaimed; “is that lady the cele- 
 brated Mrs. Seacole?” 
 
 “ Of course,” said the general. 
 
 She then came forth from her bivouac cellar, with two 
 bottles in her hands, exclaiming, “ I shall stand mine, 
 and no mistake.” 
 
 We all declared it would never do for a lady to stand 
 treat in the Crimea. 
 
 “Lord bless you, Monsieur Soyer,” said the lady, 
 “ don’t you know me ?” 
 
 “ Yes, I do now, my dear madam.” 
 
 “Well, all those fine fellows you see here are my 
 Jamaica sons — are you not?” said she, opening the 
 champagne, and addressing the general. 
 
 “We are, Mrs. Seacole, and a very good mother you 
 have been to us.” 
 
 “ I have known you, general, for many years.” 
 
MRS. SEACOLE’s PROJECTS. 
 
 233 
 
 “ Wel^ here’s a health to all.” 
 
 We emptied our glasses, and returned the compliment. 
 The general then left, again expressing his desire to see 
 rne at Cath cart's Hill. 
 
 “Walk inside, walk inside, my sons; you will be 
 better there — it is not so hot. Go in, Monsieur Soyer.” 
 No sooner had we entered than the old lady expressed 
 her desire to consult me about what she should do to 
 make money in her new speculation, in which she had 
 embarked a large capital, pointing to two iron houses in 
 course of construction on the other side of the road. 
 She told me that her intention was to have beds there 
 for visitors, which I persuaded her not to do, saying, 
 “ All the visitors — and they are few in number — sleep on 
 board the vessels in the harbour, and the officers under 
 canvass in the camp. Lay in a good stock of hams, 
 wines, spirits, ale and porter, sauces, pickles, and a few 
 preserves and dry vegetables — in short, anything which 
 will not spoil by keeping.” 
 
 “ Yes,” said she, “ I mean to have all that.” 
 
 “ In that case you will no doubt make money, as you 
 are so well known to all the army.” 
 
 “ I assure you, the last time Lord Raglan passed here, 
 he spoke to me for more than ten minutes, and promised 
 to do all he could for me.” 
 
 “That’s right,” we all said. 
 
 “ I know Miss Nightingale too. She was very kind 
 to me when I passed through Scutari, on my way here ; 
 she gave me lodging and everything I required, in the 
 hospital.” 
 
 “ We passed this way a few days before Miss Nightin- 
 gale was taken ill,” said I. 
 
 “ I know you did ; and I am sure, if the lady had known 
 I was here, she would have called to see me. Thank God, 
 I hear she is quite out of danger.” 
 
 “ Yes, she is improving.” 
 
 “ When you see her, present my best respects, and tell 
 the dear lady that I shall go and see her.” 
 
 “ I will, Mrs. Seacole. Good-bye.” 
 
 “ Good-bye, my son.” 
 
234 
 
 THE LOST PONY. 
 
 Oil getting up in a hurry to be off, 1 missed my horse, 
 and found one of the officers* chargers, which had been 
 left in charge of the same man to whom I had given 
 mine, led by a Zouave. Upon inquiring of the Zouave 
 where the man had gone, he informed me that he did 
 not know, but that he had given him a shilling (which 
 he showed me) to hold this animal for, as far as he could 
 understand, about an hour, while he went on the grey 
 in the direction of head-quarters. I called Mrs. Seacole 
 out, and told her what had happened. She stepped up 
 to the Zouave, and he began talking so fast, that I shall 
 not forget the expression he made as long as I live. 
 His speech may be thus translated : “ By the name of 
 Jupiter! I have neither stolen nor sold your horse. Look 
 at me ! (showing his corporation.) If you like, captain, 
 to lend me this quadruped, I will soon find the voyiou 
 (meaning a low rascal). There is my name and the 
 number of my regiment. We are encamped near the 
 French head-quarters.** 
 
 All this time Mrs. Seacole had been looking about, 
 and every grey pony she saw far or near was mine — at 
 least in her eyes. The two officers mounted their horses, 
 and went one one way and the other another, but soon 
 returned, having found nothing. Having sent in all 
 directions without being able to obtain any trace of the 
 pony, we concluded that the animal was lost. I take 
 this opportunity of publicly thanking those two gentle- 
 men for the vivid interest they took in trying to find 
 the borrowed steed. I very much regret that I do not 
 recollect their names. They will no doubt remember the 
 circumstance if this little work falls into their hands.* 
 
 All our efforts to find the pony being useless, I made 
 up my mind to walk back to Balaklava. Just as I was 
 thanking Mrs. Seacole for her extraordinary exertions, 
 
 * The difficulty of recollecting the names and the rank of 
 military men in the Crimea is great. This is particularly the 
 case with me. The performance of my manifold duties com- 
 pelled me to cross and re-cross hundreds of times from vessel to 
 vessel, hospital to hospital, and camp to camp. I met and received 
 
 attentions and aid from numbers, of whom it is impossible to retain 
 
INVITATION TO DINNER. 
 
 235 
 
 Mr. Day, her partner, came in, and he advised me to go 
 at once to the Hue and Cry, at head-quarters. 
 
 “ How am I to do this?” I asked. 
 
 “ Take my pony. It is not twenty minutes* ride from 
 hence ; and you will stand a good chance of getting it 
 back, especially if the man who held it was an English- 
 man. He is sure to be found in the English camp.” 
 
 Thanking him for his kindness, I mounted, and started 
 full gallop for head-quarters. I made inquiries at the 
 Post-office, where I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. 
 Russell, who introduced me to Mr. Angel, the postmaster. 
 I then inquired for the Hue and Cry , and related the 
 circumstances under which I had lost my pony. All 
 seemed highly amused. They laughed heartily at my 
 expense, and I could not help joining in the merriment. 
 Mr. Angel invited me to dine with him, having a few 
 friends that evening to join his popotte. 
 
 “ I am much obliged, my dear sir ; but I am staying 
 at Balaklava, and I suppose you dine late.** 
 
 “ About six o*clock,** replied Mr. Angel. “You can 
 sleep here. We have no bed, it*s true ; but I can lend 
 you a blanket ; and there is a small hut, which is empty, 
 you can have all to yourself. Mr. Bracebridge slept 
 there the night before last, when on a visit to Captain 
 Boucher, a friend of his.** 
 
 “Oh, as far as that goes, X shall be comfortable 
 enough.** 
 
 c5 • 
 
 “ Then you will dine with me ?** 
 
 “ I will,** said I, “ and am much obliged for your kind 
 invitation.** 
 
 I thought by accepting it, I should have an excellent 
 opportunity of looking out for my pony in the morning, 
 if I did not happen to find it that night; I therefore 
 went to the Hue and Cry , and gave the best description, 
 
 more than a slight photographic sketch of their noble Saxon 
 countenances. From the peculiarity of my costume, I was almost 
 as well known to every one in the camp as a chien du regiment. 
 
 I offer this explanation as an apology to any one whom I may 
 have inadvertently annoyed — if any such there he — in my account of 
 my Crimean campaign, by not giving the proper rank or name. 
 
230 
 
 POOH CONSOLATION. 
 
 to ray knowledge, as I had not had the honour of his 
 acquaintance long, and did not know of any private 
 marks by which he might he recognised. They gave 
 me but faint hopes of seeing it again, and by way of 
 comforting me, showed me a long list of missing horses, 
 mules, and ponies, enough to fill half a column of the 
 Times . 
 
 “ I don't care so much about the pony, as that can be 
 replaced ; but the saddle is a new one from London, and 
 neither the animal nor the saddle belong to me." 
 
 “You may, perhaps," said one, “find the horse, but 
 not the saddle, especially if it is gone to the French 
 camp, for, believe me, the Zouaves are very fond of 
 English saddles, as well as everything they can get hold 
 of which does not require feeding ; so they will probably 
 keep the saddle and turn the horse loose. At all events, 
 we will do what we can for you ; but I advise you to 
 look out for yourself." 
 
 It was then about four o'clock, and I had an hour's 
 ride about the camp, but it was all in vain. Every inquiry 
 proved fruitless ; and I could not obtain the slightest 
 clue to the lost pony. I could not help smiling when I 
 recollected Dr. Hadley's last words, “ You may lose the 
 horse but don't lose the saddle." Hoping for better 
 luck next day, I returned to head-quarters, and begged 
 Lord Raglan's groom to give Mr. Day's pony a night's 
 lodging. Making sure Monsieur Armand woyld be in, I 
 went to see him. He was rather busy, but he received me 
 very politely, and showed me what he called his kitchen, 
 though it had not the slightest claim to the title, as it 
 was all but destitute of culinary utensils. The provisions 
 were of inferior quality ; but, as he told me, the best he 
 could procure. I then offered my services if I could be 
 of any use in getting stoves or a small oven erected. 
 
 “ Ever since I have been here," he replied, “ I have 
 been asking for one or two charcoal stoves and a few 
 shelves, but not a thing can I obtain for love or money." 
 
 “Upon my word you surprise me! How can that 
 be in the house of the Commander-in-chief? Truly, 
 every one has much to do." 
 
DINNER, AT THE POST-OFFICE. 
 
 237 
 
 a Such is the case.” 
 
 “ Never mind; I think I shall be able to get some- 
 thing done for you, as his lordship has spoken to me upon 
 the subject.” 
 
 “I shall be much obliged to you if you will,” said 
 he ; and then pointed out the principal things he required, 
 which were soon afterwards furnished. 
 
 As it was nearly six o’clock, I left him, and returned 
 to the Post-office, where a sumptuous table was laid out. 
 There was actually a tablecloth and real plates, knives, 
 forks, and various kinds of glasses. In fact, for the 
 Crimea, it was as the French say, epatant . We sat down 
 six to dinner; and had some very strong preserved soup, 
 a very nice tough fowl — the remainder of the bill of fare 
 was made from the ration meat. We had very good 
 wine ; and, perhaps, never was a dinner better relished, 
 or accompanied with more mirth and jokes. Itussell the 
 great was the hero, besides having an Angel for the host. 
 Towards eight o’clock, the party amounted to about 
 fifteen, as far as we could discern through the clouded 
 atmosphere with which the room was filled. Every one 
 was smoking ; some large chibouques, long and short 
 pipes, a few cigars, but no cigarettes. The unexpected 
 increase to our party, I must observe, was partly owing 
 to our vocal abilities, several lively choruses having 
 attracted Mr. Angel’s illustrious neighbours, as the 
 denizens of the woods were allured by the melody of 
 Orpheus. 
 
 Our mirth at last became so boisterous that it not 
 only brought around us men of all ranks, but attracted 
 the attention of the Commander-in-chief, who sent to 
 inquire what the noise was about. This we considered 
 a rather inharmonious inquiry, but found that, by 
 decreasing the pitch of our vocal organs from allegro 
 to piano, we should produce as much effect, with less 
 noise, as his lordship wisely called it; though I heard 
 the next day, that Lord Paglan, who was sitting at his 
 door enjoying the fresh air with several gentlemen of his 
 staff, enjoyed it, and gave orders that we should not be 
 disturbed. Complaints poured in from the numerous 
 
238 
 
 THE GUESTS SEPARATE. 
 
 tents which surrounded head-quarters. It was then about 
 ten o* clock, which is equivalent to twelve or one p. m. in 
 London. The mot cV or dr e from our chairman was, “ Tell 
 those who cannot sleep to join our bacchanalian party ” 
 So many took the hint, that no room could at length be 
 obtained in the modern Crimean Temple of Momus. 
 
 At last the order took a more positive character, for the 
 very Angel who was presiding, observed, and very justly, 
 that they were all playing the devil with him, and still 
 more so with his cellar, which being but meagrely 
 stocked, could not long stand so severe an attack. He 
 therefore begged all new comers to go back to their 
 quarters, and bring or send the liquid requisite to keep 
 up the spirits of the guests till midnight — which was 
 done. Every one, like Cinderella, disappeared, by slip- 
 ping quietly out at the most convenient opportunity. 
 
230 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 EXPEDITIONS ON HORSE AND ON EOOT. 
 
 Comfortable couch — A terrible sortie — Theborrowed animal reclaimed 
 — A bad position — Lord Kaglaii lends me another steed — General 
 Estcourt — Female improvements — Visit to the French camp — 
 A French canteen — A lively vivandiere — French regimental 
 kitchens — Discoveries — Interview with Colonel Steele — Pertinent 
 remarks — A carriage — Mrs. Estcourt and her sister — General 
 Camp Hospital — Cathcart’s Hill — Strange reports — Concert a la 
 Soyer — Keceipt for a stew — Conversation with Sir John Camp- 
 bell — A flag of truce — A good peep at Sebastopol — A cavalcade 
 of amateurs — A sad spectacle — A narrow escape — Noisy night. 
 
 Next morning, I found myself wrapped up in a horse- 
 cloth, with a pair of top-hoots for a pillow. The un- 
 feeling and ungrateful board to which I had intrusted 
 my precious limbs, had by the morning stamped his 
 patron's seal upon my bach. The following day we learnt 
 that a terrible sortie had taken place in the night, 
 and that there had been a severe loss of men on both 
 sides. At an early hour the court-yard was thronged 
 with officers ; despatches were flying in every direction ; 
 the cannon was roaring as usual, but the fusillade had 
 ceased. I then went to the stable for my. pony, when I 
 found the owner, Mr. Day, upon his back, just going 
 home. 
 
 “Ah, Monsieur Soyer, I made sure that you had lost 
 my pony as well as your own. I expected you back 
 immediately, being in want of it." 
 
 “ I was not aware of that, or I would have walked 
 from your place sooner than have deprived you of it." 
 
 “ Oh, never mind. Have you heard anything of your 
 animal ?" 
 
 “ No ! but I am going to look after him this morning. 
 That is the reason why I slept at head- quarters last 
 night." 
 
£40 
 
 A SENSIBLE 11EASON. 
 
 “I am going about the camp/' said he, “and will 
 inquire for you." 
 
 He then started, of course leaving me without a horse, 
 and with dreadful pains in my back and legs, which I 
 attributed to the softness of the bed with which I had 
 been favoured; though I could not boast of a single 
 feather, like that Tocrisse of a recruit, who took one out 
 of his master's feather bed, laid it down on the boarded 
 floor of his hut, and next morning told his companions 
 that his master must be foolish to sleep upon a feather 
 bed." 
 
 “ Why ?" asked they. 
 
 “Why, if one feather is so hard, what must the lot the 
 captain sleeps upon be ?" 
 
 The worst of my position was, how to get another 
 horse, as it was impossible for me to walk all day about 
 the camp, being so stiff and tired. I went to Lord 
 Raglan's coachman, and inquired if he had one to spare. 
 He replied — 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, we can spare a pony for you, but 
 you must ask permission of the master of the horse 
 or Lord Raglan, as I have special orders not to lend 
 one upon my own responsibility. I am sure his lordship 
 will let you have it immediately." 
 
 At this moment I caught sight of Lord Raglan's 
 valet, and I begged him to make the request; which he 
 did, and came to tell me that his lordship desired I 
 should have it by all means. Once more mounted, I 
 made an early call upon the friends of the previous 
 night, most of whom resided round head-quarters. I 
 had the pleasure of being introduced to General Esteourt, 
 who took me to see the printing press where my receipts 
 for the army were done — some of which have appeared 
 in the public press. Afterwards I went with him to his 
 quarters, which, though small, were very neatly arranged. 
 The taste was not military, and I thought that I detected 
 the work of a female hand, which I could not help 
 remarking to the general. 
 
 “You are right, Monsieur," said he, smiling — “it has 
 only lately been arranged by ladies. Mrs. Esteourt and 
 
THE FRENCH CAMP. 
 
 241 
 
 my sister are here, and this is a little bit of their handy- 
 work. They are staying on hoard ship at Balaklava, 
 and come here every day. Before they arrived I had 
 only this small room (showing me his bed made upon 
 boards) where I sleep as well as ever I did in my life. 
 The only thing which awakes me in the night is when 
 the cannon ceases firing — I am so used to it/” 
 
 “ I believe that, general, and have no doubt you seldom 
 miss hearing a report. In fact, you are the nearest of 
 those at head-quarters to Sebastopol.” 
 
 I then inquired about the sortie of the previous night. 
 The general said he did not know the result of it, and 
 very kindly invited me to breakfast, which I declined, 
 having to go round the French camp in search of my 
 pony. 
 
 “I shall be happy,” said General Estcourt, “to do 
 anything I can for you ; and if you call in the after- 
 noon, my wife and her sister will be here, and I will 
 introduce you to them.” 
 
 Thanking him kindly, I retired, and proceeded round 
 the French camp making inquiries ; then to their head- 
 quarters, where I met Captain Boucher, General Can- 
 roberks aide-de-camp, with whom I had the pleasure of 
 travelling. He promised to introduce me to the general, 
 who, he said, would be very glad to see me. Upon my 
 telling him about my pony, he remarked — 
 
 “ If he is in our camp you are sure to get him back, 
 for we have put a stop to that kind of piracy by very 
 severe punishment. They used to come and steal our 
 horses from our very stables ; but tell me what sort of a 
 horse he is, and I will advertise him with the others, and 
 we shall know in less than five or six hours if he is in 
 our camp? the plan we have adopted cannot fail.” 
 Having described the animal to the captain, I thanked 
 him for his kindness. 
 
 Considering my French review terminated, I thought 
 of returning at once to the English head-quarters, having 
 to see several of the authorities upon business. On my 
 way I happened to pass by a nice French canteen. I 
 inquired if I could get any breakfast ? A rather stout 
 
 R 
 
24 2 SYSTEM OF COOKING IN THE FRENCH CAMP. 
 
 vivandiere, dressed in the uniform of the Imperial Guard, 
 very politely said to me : 
 
 “ What a stupid question to ask ! Do you think we 
 have not everything required for the purpose here? Per- 
 haps, Captain of the Lord knows what regiment, you 
 think we have come out merely to thread pearls, sing 
 c Partant pour la Syrie/ and dance the Fandango/” 
 
 On my way I visited several regimental kitchens and 
 tasted the soup. Some was better than at others. They 
 had no vegetables excepting some vegetable marrow — 
 more likely to spoil the soup than improve it. I made 
 several important discoveries respecting the system of 
 cooking pursued in the French camp, after visiting, with 
 some of my new acquaintances, a row of twelve kitchens, 
 which number, they informed me, was required for each 
 regiment — being at the rate of one per company. One 
 man was told off as cook for every squad or mess of six- 
 teen. The buildings were composed of mud and stone, 
 and covered an extent of about four hundred yards. I 
 bade my brave companions farewell, and left them quite a 
 happy man, having entirely forgotten horse and saddle, 
 in making the discovery that in lieu of four hundred 
 yards of space, a dozen buildings, and about eighty men 
 for each regiment, an immense consumption of fuel, and 
 smoke enough to blind three parts of the army — as the 
 men were all cooks in turn — my system was simple, 
 effective, and vastly superior to that even of the French, 
 which had hitherto always been considered as preferable 
 to the English. This was indeed the case, for all French 
 soldiers understand a little cooking, and their canteen 
 pan was far superior to that in use amongst the English 
 troops, which I condemned at first sight in the camp at 
 Chobham. 
 
 I returned to head-quarters, intending to communi- 
 cate my discovery to Lord Raglan ; but learning that he 
 was very busy, and would not be disengaged till evening, 
 I went to Colonel Steele, who, in spite of the pressure of 
 business, gave me an immediate audience, and promised 
 to speak to Lord Raglan on the subject. Head-quarters 
 were that day, in a manner, taken by storm. They were 
 
AN INTERESTING YOUNG MAN. 
 
 243 
 
 literally besieged, and this gave me an opportunity of 
 getting acquainted with several officers and other officials 
 whom I had not the pleasure of knowing — or, at least, 
 only by sight. Amongst these were Sir George Brown, 
 Sir W. Codrington, Sir Colin Campbell, Lord Rokeby, 
 Captain Whitmore, and Brevet-Major A. Macdonald. 
 
 Lord Raglan passed me in the passage, and said, 
 " You wish to see me, Monsieur Soyer?” 
 
 Knowing his lordship was much occupied, I replied, 
 " Colonel Steele will give you the particulars that I came 
 to communicate.” 
 
 " That will do ; but have you found your horse ?” 
 
 "No, my lord .” 
 
 "I have been to visit Miss Nightingale. She is still 
 very ill. Bad job, bad job, poor lady!” he continued, 
 walking away towards Colonel Steele’s office, with his 
 hands full of papers. 
 
 After this I called upon Doctor Hall, with whom I 
 had a few minutes’ conversation upon business. Louis was 
 somewhere about, busily engaged, and, as usual, unwilling 
 to give a direct reply, no matter what question you put 
 to him. He came to see me. I inquired if he knew 
 anything about the sortie of the previous night, upon 
 which he answered that the black horse he rode the day 
 before had thrown him in the mud, and made him in 
 such a mess. I replied in his style : 
 
 " The sun is very hot. to-day.” 
 
 Upon which he observed, "he never was there in his 
 life. 
 
 I begged of him to tell me how he was to-morrow. 
 
 " Don’t bejieve that,” said he ; " it is quite false.” 
 
 An interesting young man indeed was Louis. 
 
 A very great curiosity then made its appearance, 
 breaking the thread of our scientific conversation. What, 
 reader, do you think it was ? A carriage ! — a thing 
 unknown in the camp — or at least a bad imitation of 
 one — drawn by two very obstinate mules, one pulling 
 against the other, which seemed to amuse my intelligent 
 friend Louis, who never liked to see anything going on 
 smoothly. General Estcourt went out to meet it, and 
 
 R 2 
 
244 
 
 A WONDERFUL SIGHT. 
 
 two ladies alighted. To this Louis thoroughly objected, 
 saying — “ Ladies, indeed ! they are the two female 
 Zouaves who performed in the Anglaises pour Hire, at the 
 theatre in their camp. One,” said he, “is Jean Huguet 
 — the other Panaudet, aide-de-camp to the drum-major 
 of a regiment of cavalry. The first plays Lady Painbeche 
 in that tragedy — the other, Lady DonT-you-wish-you- 
 may-get-it.” 
 
 Very fertile indeed was the brain of Louis at composi- 
 tion of the higher school ; and, like Marplot, never 
 wishing to see anything in its right light, he succeeded 
 admirably. The sight of a carriage was something 
 wonderful, but two ladies at once, and fashionably 
 dressed, was too much good-luck. I advanced towards 
 them, and had the honour of being introduced by the 
 general to Mrs. Estcourt and his sister. The general 
 invited me to walk in, and I had the honour of taking 
 a glass of wine with the fair — who might well be called 
 fairies at the time — ladies being so scarce, in fact, all but 
 invisible, in the Crimea. 
 
 After a short, but very interesting, conversation with 
 the ladies, I retired, leaving some copies of my receipts 
 with Mrs. Estcourt, who kindly undertook to look at the 
 proofs before printing. Thence I proceeded to the General 
 Camp Hospital, and there met Doctor Mouatt, who told 
 me he was waiting for the bricks for his oven from the 
 Ordnance Office at head-quarters. I informed him that 
 I had given in the plan for a kitchen, and endeavoured to 
 convince him of the necessity of having it done at once, 
 
 “ I am well aware of that, and it shall be attended to.” 
 
 All inquiries respecting my pony were fruitless. At 
 last, upon asking at a canteen, a soldier told me he had 
 heard of one being found in some regiment, but could 
 not tell me which one, though he thought it was some- 
 where about CathcarPs Hill. 
 
 On arriving at CathcarPs Hill, I met Sir John 
 Campbell, who invited me to take some refreshment 
 and a glass of Bordeaux. We descended to his rocky 
 abode in front of Sebastopol, whence you could trace 
 every shot or shell which passed, as well as view 
 
HEPOUTS. 
 
 245 
 
 the whole city. On recounting my adventure of the 
 lost pony, and of my being absent two days from 
 Balaklava, 
 
 “We heard,” said the aide-de-camp to Sir John, 
 “ that you had lost two ponies.” 
 
 “No ! no!” said I, “one at a time is quite enough, 
 captain.” 
 
 “ I can assure you that is the joke at head-quarters. 
 I also heard of your concert a la Soyer .” 
 
 “ W e spent a regular London evening,” I replied. 
 
 “ I wish I had been there,” said the general ; “ we are 
 getting very dull in our division. Before you go, Mons. 
 Soyer, come and see my kitchen.” 
 
 “I will, general.” 
 
 Though very small, it was more deserving that title 
 than the one at Lord Raglands. 
 
 “ Here,” said Sir John, “ is our ration meat ; I am sure 
 you cannot make a tempting dish out of these materials, 
 especially from the salt meat, which requires so much 
 soaking, it is so hard.” 
 
 “ Well, general, I will not say I can make a dish 
 worthy of Lucullus out of this ; but I will try to make 
 something palatable and fit to eat.” 
 
 “ I can assure you. Monsieur Soyer, that if you succeed, 
 it will be conferring a great boon upon the army ; and 
 you must give them the receipts.” 
 
 I did as follows : I cut about two pounds of salt beef, 
 and as much salt pork, in pieces of about a quarter of a 
 pound in weight, placed them in a canteen pan with cold 
 water, and set it on the fire. When lukewarm, I took 
 the pan off, washed the meat well, and threw the water 
 away. I then added three pints of fresh water, a quarter 
 of a pound of onions sliced, two ounces of sugar, a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, and two ounces of rice. I set it to 
 stew and simmer gently for two hours. The general 
 said : — 
 
 “ You must come and dine with us about that time.” 
 
 “ I should certainly much like to taste it, general ; but 
 I must be at Balaklava before seven o’clock to-night. 
 To-morrow I am coming over to the General Hospital, 
 
246 
 
 A FLAG OF TEUCE. 
 
 and if you will be kind enough to order some to be saved 
 for me, that I may taste it when I come, I shall esteem 
 it a great favour.” 
 
 ce I will do so. Monsieur Soyer, but try and be here to 
 dinner. We shall dine about five o’clock.” 
 
 The stew by this time began to simmer, and upon 
 tasting the broth, I found it already very palatable, with- 
 out being too salt. I begged of the cook to let it simmer 
 very gently, which he promised to do. 
 
 We prepared to separate: Before leaving, I said, “ The 
 soldiers will be able to do their rations the same way. I 
 have recommended it to Commissary Filder, who has 
 agreed to it, and consented that the salt rations should 
 be issued the night before, thus giving the soldiers time 
 to soak the meat well. In consequence of this, it will 
 require less sugar; although io is rumoured that a 
 quarter of an ounce is to be added to their daily rations. 
 They will then have as much as they require ; and when 
 my new field-stoves are issued, they will admit both of 
 the soaking and the cooking of the meat; and various 
 messes can be made, almost impracticable in the small 
 tin canteens now in use.” 
 
 I then told the general of my visit to the French 
 kitchens, and what I had seen there. He agreed with 
 me that they employed too many men, especially in 
 time of war. It is true that the French soldiers under- 
 stood cooking much better than our men did, but, 
 nevertheless, their system admitted of great improve- 
 ments. We were then standing in front of Sir John’s 
 cave facing Sebastopol. Of a sudden all the batteries 
 ceased firing, and Sir John exclaimed, “ Hallo ! there is 
 a flag of truce hoisted on the Russian side, and it is 
 accepted. No doubt it is for leave to bury the dead. 
 Now is the time to have a good peep at Sebastopol, Mons. 
 Soyer ; you have two hours for that purpose.” 
 
 The generals, staff officers, and a number of military 
 men who were present as lookers-on, started off ; and I 
 of course followed, making sure Sebastopol was not more 
 than a mile and a half or two miles distant — which, a 
 vol d’oi&ecm , it was not ; but there were four or five deep 
 
PEEP AT SEBASTOPOL. 
 
 247 
 
 ravines, which made the distance much longer. The few 
 who started from the hill were joined by many on the 
 road, and we soon formed a small cavalcade of amateurs. I 
 understood, from several parties of whom I inquired, that 
 we should have plenty of time to go and return before 
 the recommencement of hostilities, and that there was 
 not, therefore, the slightest danger. As it was on the 
 French side the sortie had taken place, some went one 
 way and some another ; and only about six of us went 
 towards the French trenches. Upon our arrival we 
 experienced some difficulty in getting in, and it was full 
 twenty minutes before they would admit us. 
 
 One of the gentlemen present — an English officer, un- 
 known to me — wrote our names upon his card, and, by 
 order of the commandant of a battery, we were allowed to 
 enter. The sight is too painful to dwell upon, from the 
 immense numbers of dead and wounded piled one upon the 
 other. They were mostly young men, who had fallen so 
 bravely in defence of their country in this glorious, though 
 disastrous, combat. I could not help remarking, both in 
 the French and Russian dead, that those who had been 
 killed by gun-shots passing through the body lay as if they 
 had fallen into a sweet slumber, with a smile upon their 
 cold lips, and a happy and pleasing expression of counte- 
 nance, very different to the fearful and contorted appear- 
 ance generally presented, when from our comfortable 
 homes we are summoned by that “strict serjeant — Death,” 
 in consequence of old age or illness. This induced me 
 to say to my companions in the trenches, “ It appears 
 to me as if death had not time to convey them to his 
 mournful shore, but that the genius of glory had unex- 
 pectedly stepped in, and taken possession of their souls, 
 which were now happily ascending to heaven and a 
 better world; while, on the contrary, those who have lost 
 a limb or received serious wounds in the head, appear to 
 have expired in the most painful torture.” 
 
 The funeral service was going on rapidly and solemnly 
 on all sides. The main attack had been against the 
 French, and their newly-arrived Imperial Guard suffered 
 considerable loss. The greater part of the time allowed. 
 
248 
 
 ANOTHER SURPRISE. 
 
 for the armistice had how elapsed, and we therefore 
 thought of retiring. None of us were, however, ac- 
 quainted with the French trenches, and it took us a 
 considerable time to find our way out. I must have 
 taken a wrong turn, or at least the man to whom I had 
 entrusted my pony had done so, although I had given 
 him a franc, and promised him another on getting out 
 all right, merely to see that no one untied the pony. As 
 he was on duty at the time, and agreed to do this, I 
 trusted him with it. My friends found their steeds 
 where they had left them. Pondering upon my ill-luck, 
 and fearing the pony, which belonged to Lord Raglan, 
 was also lost, I felt much perplexed, so I scrambled up 
 between the gabions, and perceived, to my great joy, a 
 man leading my pony about in the ravine. I met the 
 person with whom I had left him, and he told me that 
 his commanding-officer would not allow the pony to 
 remain there any longer, as hostilities would begin again 
 immediately, and being in sight of the enemy, they might 
 think it belonged to a superior, and direct their fire that 
 way ; and having some other duties to perform, he gave 
 my steed in charge of another man, and requested me to 
 give the other man the franc I had promised him. 
 
 I ran off to the man, making sure I should reach 
 him in two minutes, but it took me above twenty- 
 Instead of going towards him, I got near the Russian 
 side, and had it been dark instead of day, I have no 
 doubt I should have been taken prisoner, from being 
 unable in the short time left of the suspension of hos- 
 tilities to retrace my steps. One of the sentries who 
 had seen us came and advised me to be off as soon as 
 possible, as the firing would begin again directly. 
 Thanking him, I got my pony, and was no sooner 
 mounted than the cannonade and fusillade thundered in 
 every direction ; and some missiles passed me much too 
 close to be pleasant. 
 
 A regiment of French soldiers who had just been 
 relieved from duty, and were on their way to their 
 quarters, told me they were going to the Clocheton, 
 a place of which I had heard, but did not know. I 
 
A PICTURESQUE SHOT. 
 
 249 
 
 followed them, as the night was fast setting in and 
 rain was falling. I passed it, with a jolly set of 
 fellows, full of song, cognac, and rum ; and, as I stood 
 some drink, I was set down in their estimation as a 
 gentleman. I afterwards slept upon some straw, on the 
 door of the canteen. My horse had a very good meal, 
 and plenty of water, but was compelled to remain out 
 all night, which annoyed me very much. It could not, 
 however, be helped. We had a very noisy night, and 
 several shots were heard hissing over our heads, as we 
 were only a few hundred yards from the small house 
 called the Clocheton, so celebrated and well known in 
 the French camp. It was from that picturesque spot 
 that Monsieur de Bazancourt wrote his popular history 
 of the war. 
 
250 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 MATTERS GRAVE AND GAY. 
 
 Kitchens in the Turkish and Sardinian camps — Triumphal entry into 
 Balaklava — Missed for three days — Telegraphed for — Lots of 
 news — My secretary in trouble — Arrival of Lord Ward in the 
 London — The Queen’s birthday in the harbour of Balaklava — 
 Baking on board the floating batteries — Miss Nightingale ordered 
 home — “Who lost the four horses?” — Lord Raglan and Mrs. 
 Roberts — His visit to Miss Nightingale’s siek-bed — Dinner- 
 parties — A Crimean banquet — Sick Sardinians — The dying 
 officer — The last request — An expedition to Kertch — A change 
 of quarters — Samples of bread — Bread-biscuit — Letters to the 
 Times . 
 
 At six the next morning; I started, and made it my 
 business to visit the kitchens in the Turkish and 
 Sardinian camps, on my way home. At eight I made 
 my triumphal entry into Balaklava. My return seemed 
 to be quite an event, as it had not only been reported 
 that I had lost three horses, but also that I had lost 
 myself. I found, when I got on board the London — 
 which was still vomiting forth troops, horses, guns, and 
 projectiles of all kinds, to feed the voracious appetite of 
 mighty, grand, but very unsociable and terrible Mr. 
 War, with whom I had lately had the unexpected honour 
 of being on a little too familiar terms — that every one 
 had missed me for three days, and the last they had 
 heard of me was that I had been seen going towards 
 Sebastopol at the time the flag of truce was hoisted. No 
 one had seen me return, and they concluded that poor 
 Soj~er had either been killed, wounded, or taken prisoner. 
 
 X was told that Mr. Braeebridge had been anxiously 
 inquiring for me in every direction, and that P. M. 
 had just gone in a great hurry to the telegraph 
 office, to send word to head-quarters. Seeing the affair 
 was getting rather serious, I set off at full gallop to stop 
 
A BUDGET OP NEWS. 
 
 251 
 
 him, and found him in the office, writing the following 
 lines : — 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer has been absent from Balaklava these 
 last three days, and has not been heard of. An answer 
 will oblige.” 
 
 My unexpected arrival put him in good spirits. I 
 convinced him that I was neither hilled, wounded, nor 
 taken prisoner, and having related my adventures, I 
 inquired about business. 
 
 The first thing he told me was that Miss Nightingale 
 was getting better. This I knew, having made inquiries 
 on board. Then he informed me that Lord Raglan had 
 visited her. This I also knew. Then that Thomas, my 
 head man, had been all over the camp, hunting for me ; 
 that the hospital kitchens were all going on well. He 
 next informed me that Dr. Hadley was morally in deep 
 mourning, not so much on account of his pony, or even 
 myself, bht his saddle and bridle, which he said no money 
 could replace, it having been made to order in London. 
 I observed that I was worse off than he was, as from his 
 kindness in lending me the pony, I had been so long 
 away. 
 
 “ But, P. M., will you be kind enough to jump on 
 that pony, and go to him. Say I will see him in the 
 afternoon, and of course that I shall be happy to pay for 
 both pony and saddle.” 
 
 “ I will do so; but hetold.me yesterday that he didn’t 
 care a fig about the pony — it was the saddle he regretted.” 
 
 “ When did he first hear I had lost it ?” 
 
 “ Why, not four hours after you left. Mrs. Seacole 
 sent all over the camp for it, and some officers who were 
 present at the time brought the news, at which every 
 one laughed ; but I assure you the case was getting 
 very serious at last.” 
 
 “ Never mind — a la guerre comme a la guerre — we must 
 expect something a little out of the way in campaigning.” 
 
 “ I tell you what. Monsieur Soyer, I began to think 
 it was a great deal out of the way. You have only one 
 life, like the rest of us, and you cannot be spared by us, 
 not even to go to the Russians.” 
 
252 
 
 FRESH DIFFICULTIES. 
 
 P. M. started on his mission to Dr. Hadley, and I 
 returned to the London , and wrote the receipt for the 
 composition of the preserved vegetables, which I had 
 promised to Commissary Filder, and took it over 
 myself. On my way I met about a score of friends, or 
 at all events persons who knew me, and had heard the 
 false report. I was informed that Admiral Boxer was 
 much put out about my absence, and at not receiving 
 any tidings about me. 
 
 To my great astonishment, I met my secretary on 
 foot, and at once inquired what he had done with the 
 pony, making sure that he had lost it, or that he had 
 been thrown, and the animal had run away, as it was a 
 very mettlesome little creature. 
 
 “ It is nothing of the kind ; it was worse. The brute 
 is marked c L. B,., head-quarters and before I reached 
 Dr. Hadley's house, a policeman stopped me and took it 
 away, saying it had been stolen from Monsieur Soyer ; 
 and there was a regular row at head-quarters about it. 
 The fellow wanted to take me up, though I told him I 
 was your secretary. And mind you, had it not been for 
 an officer — a friend of yours, who knew me — having 
 dined with us on board the Robert Lowe , I really cannot 
 tell how I should have managed." 
 
 “ Where is the pony now ?" 
 
 “ God knows. Perhaps that fellow has stolen it." 
 
 “ I hope not. Describe the man. Who was he ?" 
 
 se A soldier, I believe ; but let us go to the Com- 
 mandant's, and inquire, for I think he took the pony to 
 the stable-yard." 
 
 Upon making inquiries, we heard the animal had been 
 sent direct to head-quarters. Thus terminated the ad- 
 ventures connected with my first interview with the good 
 and benevolent Mrs. Seacole, whom I have ever since 
 christened La Mere Noire, although she has a fair 
 daughter. 
 
 Before the evening was over I had visited the various 
 hospitals, inspected a fresh arrival of provisions — parti- 
 cularly fresh vegetables, which were sent from Constan- 
 tinople weekly, for the use of the hospitals and camp. 
 
THE QUEEN’S BIRTHDAY. 
 
 253 
 
 These often arrived in a had state, owing to the heat of 
 the weather, which was intense. The difficulty of trans- 
 port and distribution throughout the camps rendered the 
 dry composition I had submitted to the Commissariat 
 much preferable, more especially for issue to the troops 
 in camp. 
 
 The great event during my unexpected and adven- 
 turous absence was the arrival of Lord Ward in his 
 beautiful steamer, the London , filled with all kinds of 
 provisions, to be gratuitously distributed among the 
 soldiers, more as a luxury than a necessity. Provisions 
 were not at this time so scarce as they had been — the 
 soldiers were receiving ample rations. Facility and 
 method in the cooking was what was most required. 
 
 THE 24TH OE MAY, THE QUEEN’S BIRTHDAY IN’ THE 
 
 HARBOUR OE BALAKLAVA. 
 
 At midday a royal salute was fired; shouts were 
 heard in all directions, and about noon the band struck 
 up “ God save the Queen.” The ships were gaily 
 dressed out with their flags, and this put every sailor 
 in good humour. They were regaled with plenty of 
 roast beef and plum-pudding, and abundance of rum. 
 Tunes struck up in every direction — “ Drops of brandy,” 
 “Barley bree,” hornpipes, &c.; but the “Ratcatcher’s 
 Daughter” would have been most in harmony. I was 
 then dining with Captain Shepherd and a party of about 
 ten, on board his superb ship, the Triton . When dinner 
 was over, we left the jovial board to smoke our cigars 
 upon deck. We went to breathe the fresh air, and to 
 watch the frolics of the joyous but rather tumultuous crew, 
 who jvere performing their nautical steps between decks, 
 to the shrieking sounds of a damaged fiddle and still 
 more damaging fiddler. The tunes we listened to pro- 
 duced upon our ears the effect we anticipated, but the 
 air we were breathing quite the contrary effect upon 
 our noses. Captain Heath, the harbour-master, who 
 was then living on board, also gave a dinner-party that 
 day; and as his numerous guests appeared upon deck, 
 there was quite an array of naval and military men. 
 
254 
 
 A HORRID SIGHT. 
 
 I seldom smoke, and I remarked that the air we were 
 so anxious to breathe was anything but wholesome or 
 agreeable. Thereupon the commander of the Diamond 
 observed that an unpleasant odour arose from the sea. 
 
 “ It does not come from the water,” I replied, “ but 
 from the shore.” 
 
 “ What can it be, Monsieur Soyer ?” said he. 
 
 “ Don't you know, captain — you who daily visit your 
 naval hospital on the heights, that on that bank are 
 the bodies of the poor unfortunate fellows lost in the 
 Prince, and the sea has washed away the earth which 
 covered them ? Some of them are actually on a level 
 with the ground.” 
 
 “ Impossible,” said he ; “ I can't believe it.” 
 
 “ If you like,” I replied, “ I will convince you of the 
 fact.” 
 
 Some of those who overheard our conversation begged 
 Captain Shepherd to let us have a boat, with which 
 request the captain complied. It was a fine moonlight 
 night when we started, and we soon reached the spot. 
 The smell had disappeared; so he said I was mistaken. 
 
 “Not at all, captain,” said I. “Pray thrust your oar 
 through the soil we are standing upon.” 
 
 It was covered with lime, and he did as I requested, 
 and found that what I had stated was correct. W e then 
 returned on board, and mentioned the fact. All admitted 
 that it was a dreadful thing, and might bring on cholera. 
 Captains Heath and Shepherd observed that it was in- 
 tended to throw a mound three feet deep over them, and 
 that it was likely the heavy weather had washed away 
 the gravel. The remains of some of these bodies were 
 plainly visible, the most singular thing being their extra- 
 ordinary state of preservation. 
 
 I noticed that the Board of Health were aware of this, 
 and had taken sanitary measures by having great quan- 
 tities of lime thrown over the remains. Captain Heath 
 observed that the mound would very likely be completed 
 the following day. I believe that such was the case, for 
 a short time after I saw it was done. 
 
 This unpleasant discovery broke up our party sooner 
 
FLOATING BAKERIES. 
 
 255 
 
 than was intended, hut it did not disturb the mirth of 
 the sailors ; their fun lasted till daybreak. This corner 
 of the harbour was seldom frequented, which no doubt 
 was the reason that the exposure of the bodies had not 
 been noticed sooner. In pointing out this fact to Colonel 
 Hardinge, he observed that under the water his power 
 ceased. Admiral Boxer's nephew, who was there, re- 
 marked that above the level of the water he had no 
 power ; so that the tide, alternately washing over and 
 receding from the bodies, led me to infer that neither 
 the naval nor military authorities could remove the 
 nuisance, as it must have been well known to many that 
 the bodies from the wreck were deposited there. 
 
 The floating bakeries called the Bruiser and the 
 Abundance were now ready to commence baking, and 
 were visited by all the authorities — Lord Raglan, Sir 
 John Macneil, Colonel Tulloch, Commissary Filder, Dr. 
 Sutherland, the Admiral and the Commandant, &c. The 
 vessels were so crowded, that Captain Thompson, with 
 whom I had the pleasure of being well acquainted, 
 expressed his fears of never being able to make a fair 
 beginning. Good bread was at that time, I must say, 
 the most important thing wanted. Bakeries were in 
 course of erection at Kadikoi, so that between the 
 steamers and them about twenty-five or thirty thousand 
 rations could be made, producing a supply of bread four 
 days per week, and the other three biscuit. No one could 
 then wish for better field rations. 
 
 While at the Sanatorium, making inquiry about Miss 
 Nightingale, I heard from the purveyor that the 
 doctor's advice was that she should go direct to England, 
 when able to travel. My friend. Dr. Hadley, whom I 
 was going to face boldly, and scold for causing me so 
 much trouble with his saddle and bridle, had been 
 waiting anxiously for my return. In despair, he had 
 gone out in search of them. I therefore did not see, 
 though I heard much about him. 
 
 Having met Mr. Parker, the clergyman, he informed 
 me that he had been told that I had lost four horses in 
 three days — viz., three myself*, and my secretary one, and 
 
256 
 
 WHO LOST THE EOUR HOUSES? 
 
 that none of them belonged to me. Upon this I replied, 
 "Therein lies the merit of being trusted. Had they 
 been my own it would have been nothing, as any fool can 
 manage to lose his own horse, but it requires a good deal 
 of skill and standing in society to lose four belonging to 
 other persons, in so short a space of time.” 
 
 My mishap afforded much amusement; and the stand- 
 ing jest in camp for some time was, " Who lost the four 
 horses ?” I was very anxious to know the actual state 
 of Miss Nightingale’s health, and went to her hut to 
 inquire. I found Mrs. Roberts, who was quite asto- 
 nished and very much delighted to see me. 
 
 " Thank God, Monsieur Soyer,” she exclaimed, " you 
 are here again. We have all been in such a way about 
 you. Why, it was reported that you had been taken 
 prisoner by the Russians. I must go and tell Miss 
 Nightingale you are found again.” 
 
 " Don’t disturb her now. I understand Lord Raglan 
 has been to see her.” 
 
 " Yes, he has, and I made a serious mistake. It was 
 about five o’clock in the afternoon when he came. Miss 
 Nightingale was dozing, after a very restless night. We 
 had a storm that day, and it was very wet.” 
 
 "Pray go on, madam,” said I, seeing she made a 
 pause. 
 
 "Well, sir, I was in my room sewing, when two 
 men on horseback, wrapped in large gutta-percha 
 cloaks, and dripping wet, knocked at the door. I went 
 out, and one inquired in which hut Miss Nightingale 
 resided. He spoke so loud, that I said, ‘ Hist ! hist ! 
 Don’t make such a horrible noise as that, my man,’ at 
 the same time making a sign with both hands for him 
 to be quiet. He then repeated his question, but not in 
 so loud a tone. I told him this was the hut/ 
 
 " ‘All right,’ said he, jumping from his horse, and he 
 was walking straight in, when I pushed him back, asking 
 him what he meant and whom he wanted. 
 
 " ‘ Miss Nightingale,’ said he. 
 
 " ‘ And pray who are you ?’ 
 
 "‘Oh, only a soldier,’ was his reply; ‘but I must see 
 
THE OLD SOLDIER. 
 
 257 
 
 her — I have come a long way — my name is Raglan — 
 she knows me very well/ 
 
 “ Miss Nightingale overhearing him, called me in, 
 saying, ' Oh ! Mrs. Roberts, it is Lord Raglan. Pray 
 tell him I have a very bad fever, and it will be dan- 
 gerous for him to come near me/ 
 
 “ ‘ I have no fear of fever or anything else/ said Lord 
 Raglan. 
 
 “ And before I had time to turn round, in came his lord- 
 ship. He took up a stool, sat down at the foot of the 
 bed, and kindly asked Miss Nightingale how she was, 
 expressing his sorrow at her illness, and thanking and 
 praising her for the good she had done for the troops. He 
 wished her a speedy recovery, and hoped that she might 
 be able to continue her charitable and invaluable exer- 
 tions, so highly appreciated by every one, as well as by 
 himself. He then bade Miss Nightingale good-bye, and 
 went away. As he was going out, I wished to apologize. 
 
 “'No! no! not at all, my dear lady/ said Lord 
 Raglan ; ' you did very right ; for I perceive that Miss 
 Nightingale has not yet received my letter, in which I 
 announced my intention of paying her a visit to-day — 
 having previously inquired of the doctor if she could be 
 seen/ ” 
 
 “No doubt,” I said, “his lordship quite enjoyed the 
 fun.” 
 
 “I think he did, for they were laughing so when they 
 went away. However, it did my mistress no good. She 
 became very nervous afterwards, and was worse for a 
 day or two ; but she is doing well now. I am sure his 
 lordship would be very sorry if he knew that such was 
 the case.” 
 
 “ That he would ; for he did it out of pure respect and 
 kindness.” 
 
 “ Exactly. I never heard a gentleman speak more 
 kindly to any one. But only fancy, sir, what fun for me 
 to try to turn the Commander-in-chief out of doors.” 
 
 “ How were you to tell who it was ? And supposing 
 you knew, even then you would have done right, as you 
 had not received his lordship's letter, and had special 
 
 s 
 
258 
 
 FESTIVITIES. 
 
 orders from the doctor to let no one in, not even Mr. 
 Bracebridge." 
 
 ce Mr. Bracebridge came two or three times a-day. 
 The doctors recommend Miss Nightingale to go to 
 London as soon as possible ; but, Lord bless you, sir ! 
 she will not be in a fit state for removal for a fortnight 
 or three weeks." 
 
 “ I am sorry to hear that, because I should have liked 
 to go back to Scutari with her. My field-stoves have not 
 arrived, and Jullien, my head man at Scutari, has been ill ; 
 so I must look sharp after the hospitals on the Bosphorus, 
 as my principal object in coming out was to set them to 
 rights. In fact, I only offered my services for the Barrack 
 Hospital, as I had not at that time heard of the others, 
 — viz., Kululee, the General, and the Palace Hospitals." 
 
 “ You must not rely upon what I say. Monsieur Soyer ; 
 for we might be off sooner." 
 
 “ How are my kitchens going on ?" 
 
 “ Oh, very well indeed now, sir." 
 
 “ I am sure to see Mr. Bracebridge on board to-day; 
 and when Miss Nightingale is better, I will come daily 
 and make some delicate broth, pudding, or jelly for her. 
 Doctor Henderson tells me that as soon as he can put his 
 illustrious patient under my care he will do so ; then I 
 shall require your assistance, as I consider you an excel- 
 lent extra-diet cook." 
 
 The weather having set in fine, everything became 
 more cheerful. Small dinner parties were given by the 
 Guards and the Cavalry. Several gentlemen, at the head 
 of whom was Colonel Carleton, clubbed together and 
 engaged a man cook, who turned out a tolerable good 
 dinner. He cooked almost al fresco. Those regiments 
 stationed close to Balaklava fared the best, as they could 
 procure provisions from the stewards of the vessels in 
 harbour. Colonel Carleton, one of our modern epicures, 
 whom I had the pleasure of dining with while encaifiped 
 there, gave us an excellent dinner; and, for several 
 reasons, never invited more than five guests to dine with 
 him : — firstly, from his good sense as a gourmet ; and, 
 secondly, having no room for more. Dinner invitations 
 
A GRAND CRIMEAN BANQUET. 
 
 259 
 
 poured in from all quarters, both from sea and land. 
 For some time, it appeared as if the champagne corks 
 were firing instead of the cannon at Sebastopol, as the 
 wind was in the wrong direction, and the report of the 
 guns was scarcely heard at Balaklava. It took me about 
 an hour every morning to write apologies to invitations 
 — so numerous were they, and my duties would not admit 
 of my dining out every day. Moreover, the medical 
 gentlemen then strongly recommended moderation and 
 care in the use of food. 
 
 There was, however, one unexpected invitation I could 
 not decline. One evening, as I was returning late from 
 the camp, I met several of the heroes of Balaklava; 
 amongst these Colonel Peel and Major Cook of the 11th 
 Hussars, with whom I had the pleasure of being acquainted 
 at Scutari. They would take no refusal, so I was com- 
 pelled to accompany them to their mess-room and dine 
 with them, which invite I was not long accepting, requir- 
 ing at the time no end of restoratives for myself and 
 charger, after a hard day’s duty. It was indeed a splendid 
 place for the Crimea — the camp being still in the 
 infancy of luxury. A table was laid for sixteen guests, 
 who had wisely opened a kind of club in a large hut. The 
 rations were artistically turned to good account, and 
 numerous little extras were procured from Balaklava, 
 particularly fish. Two fine clout, or knotted turbots,* 
 with the et-ceteras, gave an appearance of luxurious fes- 
 tivity ; and though no one could boast of the elegance of 
 the service, at all events there were a few plates, knives, 
 and forks upon the table — at that time luxuries were not 
 requisite. Good health — a ferocious appetite — lots of 
 capital ale, porter, sherry, port, champagne — laughter, 
 puns, and fun in abundance — witty anecdotes, and plenty 
 of songs, good, bad, and indifferent, prevailed. The six- 
 
 * A peculiar kind of turbot found in the Black Sea, with scales, 
 each scale something like the head of a large iron nail ; and though, 
 when the fish is thickly covered, it in a measure spoils its appearance, 
 yet it does not in the slightest interfere with the quality, but, on 
 the contrary, leaves a gelatinous succulence round it, entirely peculiar 
 to this rough-outfitted denizen of the ocean, 
 
 s 2 
 
260 
 
 SARDINIAN OFFICER. 
 
 teen officers were joined by about twenty more after 
 dinner. They sat down anywhere and everywhere, even 
 out of doors. It was, in fact, the most martial festival 
 I had seen during my visit to the Crimea, and quite cast 
 in the shade our former semi-banquet at head-quarters. 
 
 It was midnight ere this jovial party broke up; and 
 a few minutes after I was on my way home. The sentry 
 on duty at the Col of Balaklava was calling out, with 
 the lungs of a Stentor, “ Who goes there ?” to a group 
 bearing lighted torches coming towards him ; and several 
 voices, in a mournful tone, replied, “Friends.” 
 
 “Pass, friends.” A sudden change of scene and sensa- 
 tion soon took place ! On approaching the group, and 
 inquiring what was the matter, I perceived four Sardinian 
 soldiers bearing a sick officer upon a stretcher. He was 
 followed by several others. The Sardinians at that time 
 suffered terribly from fever and cholera, and their daily 
 loss of men was something fearful. They were admitted 
 to the General Hospital, as there was not sufficient room 
 in their own. 
 
 Following the group with solemn interest as far as the 
 General Hospital, I learned that the precious burden 
 they were carrying was one of the bravest officers of 
 this small though perfect model of an army. It was a 
 Major Crossetti, in the bloom of life, his age only six-and- 
 thirty, who was suddenly attacked by cholera ; and Miss 
 Wear (the head lady under Miss Nightingale) begged of 
 me to go and offer consolation, as well as to interpret and 
 explain to the doctors what his servant required. He had 
 then only just been attacked. In less than two hours, the 
 fatal malady had increased to that extent that no hope 
 was entertained of saving him, though every attention 
 had been immediately afforded. Alas ! all was of no avail. 
 
 The contraction and sudden change of one of the 
 finest and noblest military faces I ever beheld, graced 
 by a beard of an auburn tinge, to the hideous trans- 
 formation caused by that awful disease, will never be 
 effaced from my memory, and is far too piteous to be 
 described. I remained with him more than three hours, 
 but he died during the night; his poor servant, a 
 
THE KERTCH EXPEDITION. 
 
 261 
 
 Savoyard, who had been with him from his boyhood, 
 wept bitterly. Miss Wear, though very unwell, remained 
 at his side till he had expired. He kept asking, his 
 moist hand clasped in mine, “ Pensez-vous que je vais 
 mourir ?” — Do you think I am about to die ? 
 
 “No, no ! impossible, so young !” I ejaculated. 
 
 “ I would not care if it were on the field of battle ; 
 but I have done nothing for my country in this war.” 
 
 The words I addressed to him seemed to console him 
 greatly. Miss Wear, however, informed me privately 
 that the case had taken such a turn that nothing could 
 save him. 
 
 A few days prior to my departure from the Crimea, 
 my final reminiscence of this noble departed soldier was 
 to see his name engraved on marble in letters of gold on 
 the grand national Sardinian Monument so picturesquely 
 situated on the summit of the high rock above the 
 Sanatorium. 
 
 A few days after this, the London and its bridge was 
 in more confusion than ever, and the landing of the Sar- 
 dinian troops appeared a mere trifle compared with this 
 unexpected movement. It was the departure of the fleet 
 for Kertch, and the whole of the troops, horses, provisions, 
 ammunition, &c., passed over our then almost uninhabit- 
 able City of London, I must say, the precision and celerity 
 with which this fleet was embarked and despatched was 
 admirable. The evening before, I had promised to go 
 early and superintend the cooking of one of the regi- 
 ments, when, to my great surprise, I found the colonel, 
 his officers, and men upon deck just embarking. I was 
 with them the afternoon before till three o^clock, and 
 they then knew nothing about it. Admiral Boxer came 
 and informed me that the London was to follow the 
 expedition, and he was under the necessity of removing 
 us, not much to our sorrow, for the everlasting thorough- 
 fare made our nautical London very disagreeable ; and it 
 was with great delight that we left town for a quieter 
 and better habitation, observing at the same time to 
 the admiral, that I feared I was in disgrace both with 
 the army and navy. 
 
262 
 
 WHITE OH BROWN. 
 
 “Why so. Monsieur Soyer?** 
 
 “Because the Minister-at-War turned me out of 
 London at a few days* notice, and you, admiral, 
 do the same kind of thing* in as many minutes. You 
 are about transferring me, it seems, to the Baraguay 
 d’Hilliers.” 
 
 “ Ah, and a fine ship she is, too. Monsieur Soyer.** 
 
 Sir John Macneil and Colonel Tullocli had quitted the 
 Baraguay d’Hilliers , a very fine vessel, and we had their 
 apartment in the state cabin, so called because it was so 
 large and commodious. The Baraguay d’Hilliers was 
 moored next to the Abundance , and so close that we were 
 able to walk from one ship to the other, which gave 
 me the facility of watching the process and system of 
 that important floating bakery, as well as the perfection 
 of its mechanism. The first two samples of bread made 
 were, one very white, and the other rather brown. 
 Captain J ohnson asked me which I liked best. I replied, 
 “ The brown, by all means, for the troops ; and I am sure 
 that Lord Raglan, Sir John Macneil, Dr. Hall, and other 
 competent gentlemen, will express the same opinion.** 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, I must differ from you, for this is 
 much finer and whiter.** 
 
 “It is because it is so white that I object to it. The 
 change from almost black Turkish bread to the very 
 white will create a bad feeling amongst the troops, who 
 will fancy they have been imposed upon. For my taste, 
 give me the whitey -brown ; there is less show and more 
 nutriment in it : besides, it is better adapted for the 
 purpose.** 
 
 “Well/* said Captain Johnson, “for my own eating, 
 I prefer the white ; though I must say the other is very 
 good.** 
 
 “ Depend upon it, captain, the soldiers want food, 
 not luxuries. 1*11 tell you what I will do for you : I am 
 going to head-quarters, and will take the samples to 
 Lord Raglan and Dr. Hall.** 
 
 “ I shall be much obliged if you will,** said he, “ as 
 we want to commence supplying to-morrow.** 
 
 On reaching head- quarters, I met Dr. Hall going to 
 
BAKING IN A BLOATING BAKERY. 
 
 263 
 
 tlie general. I showed him the samples ; we convassed 
 their respective merits for a few minutes, and the Doctor 
 was of the same opinion as myself. I saw Lord Raglan 
 in the camp ; and he said, “ The whitey-brown, by all 
 means. I never wish to have better bread upon my 
 table" • 
 
 The good done by this bakery was incalculable. They 
 baked from fifteen to sixteen thousand rations daily, 
 with perfect ease. In justice to the system, I must say, 
 it answered admirably. I carefully watched its progress, 
 and though the quality of the bread often varied, which 
 was entirely owing to the difference in the quality of the 
 flour supplied — and this is unavoidable in so large a 
 supply as is required for an army, — I can certify that 
 the working of the flour in the bruiser, the process of 
 manipulation, and the baking were carefully attended 
 to. In the beginning, it is true, yeast could not be 
 procured in sufficient quantities. At last, they discovered 
 a way of making it themselves. It is due to their 
 exertions to say, that the bakery at Kadikoi was not 
 making as good bread as the Abundance . It is true, 
 
 they did not possess the same facilities. We had made 
 on board the Abundance several samples of bread-biscuit, 
 which I had the honour of submitting to the Duke of 
 Newcastle during his visit to Scutari. He tasted it 
 both in its dry state, and also soaked in broth, three 
 months after having been baked, and highly approved 
 of it, considering it an excellent invention for the 
 soldier’s camp meal, as well as for the navy. 
 
 This is the same bread-biscuit mentioned by a corre- 
 spondent in the following letter, addressed to the Times . 
 
 Miss Nightingale and M. Soyer. 
 
 To the Editor of the Times . 
 
 Sir, — The sympathies of the British nation being at this moment 
 directed to the army of the East, I feel that information as to the 
 hospital department will interest many. Miss Nightingale returned 
 to Scutari on the 4th inst., having left it on the 4th of the preceding 
 month. Miss Nightingale, on her arrival at Balaklava, immediately 
 began an active investigation of the state of the two hospitals there, 
 -as well as of the sailors’ hospitals and the field hospitals in the 
 
264 
 
 NEWS EROM THE CRIMEA . 
 
 camp, in which she had the invaluable assistance of the Sanitary 
 Commissioners and M. Soyer, as well as the advice and the 
 moral support of Sir John M £ Neil and Colonel Tulloch, commis- 
 sioners, and of Dr. Hall and the medical staff. The affairs of 
 the sisters and nurses were arranged, new huts built, kitchens 
 erected and arranged, and a vigorous action in the whole department 
 begun, with the full assent and aid of the medical officers, when 
 Miss Nightingale was seized with the Crimean fever and carried up 
 to the hut hospital on the Genoese heights. 
 
 She became convalescent after about twelve days, and was recom- 
 mended to take a voyage to England ; she, however, though in a state 
 of extreme weakness and exhaustion, refused to entertain the idea of 
 going beyond Scutari, trusting that she might be enabled the sooner 
 to return to her advanced post at Balaklava. Lord Ward, with a 
 generous perseverance in well-doing, forced Miss Nightingale to 
 accept his steam-yacht the London , which -was placed at her disposal 
 on the 3rd inst., and in this vessel she happily and rapidly performed 
 the voyage to Scutari. The Hon. W. Wellesley, Dr. Curgewan, Lord 
 Ward’s medical man, Mr. and Mrs. Bracebridge, M. Soyer, whose 
 enterprise has been associated with that of Miss Nightingale at 
 Balaklava, besides Mrs. Boberts, chief nurse, and servants, were on 
 board. Miss Nightingale was visited while sick by Lord Baglan at the 
 huts, and again on board the London , and was received on landing at 
 Scutari by Lord W. Paulet, Commandant, Dr. Cumming, Inspector- 
 General, and Dr, Macgregor, Deputy Inspector. The house of the 
 chaplain is placed at her disposal by the Bev. Mr. Sabin, and she 
 has been offered the use of the British Palace at Pera by Lord and 
 Lady Stratford de Bedcliffe. Miss Nightingale is extremely weak,, 
 but has no remains of fever, and no danger is apprehended. 
 
 The sanitarium, in huts on the Genoese heights at Balaklava, is 
 now in full action, and will accommodate about six hundred, at the 
 elevation of seven hundred feet above the sea. The wounded are 
 doing well there, and the kitchen has been perfected by M. Soyer. 
 One of the large huts is used as a chapel, and the whole staff of 
 medical men, purveyors, chaplain, sisters, and nurses (Mrs. Shaw 
 Stewart^ superintendent), are well chosen and practically zealous. 
 A second sanitarium, on St. George’s Monastery heights, is ready 
 for one hundred and fifty, and rapidly progressing. Good water is 
 found in both situations. 
 
 In the General Hospital, above the head of the harbour, with its 
 huts adjacent to the main building, about two hundred and fifty 
 patients (chiefly sick) are attended (two huts being given up for 
 cholera). The medical men are especially active there, the orderlies 
 have been much improved in number and quality by recent regula- 
 tion, the kitchen and chief cook have been recommended by M. 
 Soyer, and the chief purveyor has shown anxiety to make ample 
 provision of requisites, now happily to be found in abundance ; but 
 
 * Sir Michael Shaw Stewart’s sister. 
 
NEWS EUOM THE CRIMEA. 
 
 265 
 
 the situation is not a good one ; the heat is great, and the crowds 
 frequenting the purveyor’s stores inconveniently near to the sick 
 wards. The sisters and nurses (Miss Warre superintendent) are 
 actively employed, and inhabit a hut adjacent to the main building. 
 
 The ship Abundance , lately arrived, has its bakery at work day 
 and night, turning out excellent bread, which will take the place of 
 the sour and mouldy article often sent from the contractors at 
 Constantinople. M. Soyer has invented a most important kind of 
 bread, which seems to unite the advantage of the loaf and the 
 biscuit, and has found out a method of cooking salt rations which 
 makes them most palatable and entirely removss the salt. His 
 receipts have been highly approved, and will be printed by the 
 authority of head-quarters. The camp kitchens he has invented 
 for field hospitals will soon be in activity, as those of the chief 
 hospitals already are ; but his suggestions and their application are 
 of so practical and extensive a nature that they will require a second 
 letter from, Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 C. H. B. 
 
 Scutari Barrack-hospital, June 7. 
 
 To the Editor of the Times . 
 
 Sie, — I shall do myself the pleasure of forwarding you by the 
 next post a resume of my culinary progress in the Crimea, adding 
 to it the promised receipts, as well as some of those which I have 
 already very successfully introduced into the camps, made out of the 
 rations issued to the troops. I am also happy to inform you, that 
 though so close to Sebastopol, I have not yet met with a single 
 enemy ; and were it not for the continual roaring of the cannon, the 
 bursting of shells, and the heat of the sun, I could fancy myself in 
 England’s happy land. But instead of enemies, on the contrary, 
 from head-quarters to every camp and regiment, the officers and 
 medical gentlemen have rendered me the utmost assistance, so ready 
 are they to improve the cooking of the food for their brave com- 
 panions in arms. The provisions allowed by Government I consider 
 bountiful, and only require to be applied to the best advantage. 
 With the highest consideration, 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 A. Soyee. 
 
 Camp before Sebastopol , June 3. 
 
266 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 PEEP AH ATI ON S EOE ANOTHER TEIP. 
 
 Preparations for my departure — French, Turkish, and Sardinian 
 camps — Lord Ward — A visit to Mr. Upton — The lost pony — A 
 * bright idea — A famous piece of roast-beef — Mrs. Seacole and her 
 daughter — News of the lost pony — A merry group — My beef in 
 danger — A ruse de guerre — Safe at head-quarters — Sir George 
 Frown — Interview with Lord Raglan — Letter in the Illustrated 
 London News — Curious mistake — A night cruise — Explanations 
 — Lord Raglan’s affability — The late Madame Soyer — Lord 
 Alvanley and Ude — Singular birthday anecdote — Pleasant gossip 
 — Ride home — News from Kertch — Visit to the Tchernaya — 
 An invitation — Miss Nightingale on board the Jura — Mishaps 
 — Midnight visitors — The London — A kind offer — Acceptance 
 — Ready to start. 
 
 Miss Nightingale was at this period gradually recover- 
 ing, and the time for her departure drew near. That 
 lady and Mr. Bracebridge had both expressed their wish 
 for me to return to Scutari with them, which I was also 
 very anxious to do. I wanted to give an important coup- 
 d’ceil at the hospitals there, which were still very full. 
 So I made the most of my remaining time ; visited the 
 French, Turkish, and Sardinian camps, and their hos- 
 pitals, from each of which, I am proud to say, I gleaned 
 some important and useful dietetic information. It was, 
 however, better suited to the camp than to the permanent 
 hospitals. What struck me most in the French and 
 Sardinian treatments, which are based upon a similar 
 system, was this — viz., that too much liquid of a weak 
 nature was administered to the patients, and in too great 
 quantities — especially as the climate had so great a ten- 
 dency to produce diarrhoea, dysentery, and cholera. 
 
 I had remarked during my stay at Scutari, and when 
 the hospital was filled with patients suffering from those 
 diseases, that the succulent mutton and barley broth I 
 
INTRODUCTION TO LORD WARD. 
 
 267 
 
 had introduced was selected daily from the dietary by 
 the English doctors, in preference to beef- tea, chicken- 
 broth, &c. ; as well as the receipts for plain boiled rice, 
 savoury rice, slightly curried rice, rice-pulp, ground rice- 
 pudding, sago-jelly, sago-panada; and for beverages, 
 strong rice-water, barley-water, and arrowroot-water, in 
 preference to lemonade during the first stage of those 
 diseases ; and that numbers of these light though 
 nutritious dishes were selected by the doctors when the 
 disease was at its height. 
 
 Though I am aware that in different countries men have 
 different constitutions, I also remarked that the Turkish 
 system of diet closely resembled the English, as they used 
 a great deal of rice, flour — stewed, broiled, and boiled 
 meats, &c. &e. In giving this opinion en passant, it is only 
 with the intention of submitting to the public, if not to 
 the faculty, things which struck me forcibly during my 
 visits to those important establishments, in which every- 
 body has and ever will take a national interest. Nor 
 can I bring these few remarks to a close without return- 
 ing my grateful thanks to the authorities in these 
 various establishments for their very courteous attention 
 upon all occasions. 
 
 We remained about a fortnight longer in the Crimea, 
 which time I spent in attending to my duties both in 
 the camp and in the hospitals. One morning I had the 
 pleasure of being introduced to Lord Ward, who was 
 very anxious to see Miss Nightingale, as he had a 
 number of letters as well as parcels for that lady. On 
 my informing his lordship that Miss Nightingale was 
 ill, and would not be able to see any one for some time, 
 I believe he forwarded them to her. As I was very 
 desirous of seeing his vessel, he very kindly invited me 
 to visit him on board ; and we parted — I to meet Mr. 
 Bracebridge, and to accompany him on our long-pro- 
 mised visit to Mr. TJpton; and Lord Ward, to pay his 
 first visit to head-quarters and the camp. 
 
 In a short time we arrived at Mr. Upton’s house, and 
 were very kindly received. Mr. Upton is a very short, 
 fair man, still young, and very pale. His daughters are 
 
268 
 
 ME. UPTON. 
 
 two of the prettiest little girls I ever saw, aged respec- 
 tively nine and eleven years. He seemed to have suffered 
 much from his confinement, but spoke highly of the 
 treatment he had received from the English while in 
 captivity. His goods were exposed on view, and the 
 sale was to take place a few days after. Having been 
 set at liberty, he was about to return to his native place, 
 near Atherstone in Warwickshire. Everything connected 
 with that gentleman and his family, as well as what 
 relates to his late father, is too well known to require to 
 be repeated. 
 
 Six days had elapsed, and I had received no news of 
 the lost pony. The endeavours to find his saddle were 
 also fruitless ; and the pony was quite a secondary consi- 
 deration. This put me in mind of a most extraordinary 
 case of absence of mind in a man who had been gambling, 
 and unexpectedly found himself in great distress, having 
 nothing left but his horse, which was starving for want of 
 provender. On a sudden, a bright idea flashed across his 
 mind. In order to save it, he went and sold the horse 
 to buy some hay. Had the Doctor found the saddle, it 
 was ten to one against his being able to purchase another 
 pony, they were so scarce at the time. 
 
 On the seventh day, I happened to be riding trium- 
 phantly through the camp with my tall guardsman 
 Thomas before me. He w T as carrying a fine piece of roast- 
 beef — or at least beef for roasting — which I had begged 
 of the captain of a vessel who came from Alexandria, and 
 intended for Lord Raglan. But I must here observe 
 that it would have been dangerous to cross the camp 
 with such a precious treasure unguarded, as some of 
 those marauding Jack Sheppards of Zouaves w^ould have 
 thought nothing of taking possession of it. They always 
 went in strong bodies, and were ever on the look-out for 
 prey. I said to myself, “ If, in the middle of the road, 
 and under my own eyes, they will steal a horse, nothing 
 is more certain than they will try to borrow this” — the 
 word “ steal ” was not allowed to be mentioned in the 
 French camp, the word “borrow” sounding more genteel. 
 
 The loss of the beef, added to the rumoured loss of the 
 
NEWS OF MY PONY. 
 
 269 
 
 four horses, would indeed have afforded abundant mate- 
 rials for fun ; so I sent my avant-guard by the road on 
 foot, instead of across country, and followed him on 
 horseback. This plan gave me an opportunity of seeing 
 Mrs. Seacole, to thank her for her kind exertions, 
 although the missing pony had not been found. On 
 reaching her place, I found several mounted officers taking 
 refreshment; when Miss Salty Seacole (her daughter), 
 whose name I have not yet introduced, called out — 
 “ Mother, mother ! here is Monsieur Soyer ! ” This 
 announcement brought her out immediately, and she 
 exclaimed, “ Good luck to you, my son ! we have found 
 your pony : come down. Here are some officers who say 
 they have had a grey pony like yours in the stables of 
 their regiment these last few days. Didn’t you say so, 
 gentlemen ?” 
 
 “ Yes, Monsieur Soyer !” said one, “ but you must look 
 sharp, for they are going to sell it to-morrow, if no one 
 claims it.” 
 
 “ Many thanks for the warning. I will ride over 
 directly. Pray, what is the number of the regiment ?” 
 
 “The 93rd — fourth division — near the Woronzoff- 
 road. I am almost sure it is yours.” 
 
 “Well, my son,” said Mrs. Seacole, “didn’t I tell 
 you that it would be found ?” 
 
 “Realty, Mrs. Seacole, I don’t know what I shall 
 give you for the trouble you have taken in this affair. 
 At all events, here is something on account,” — saluting 
 her upon her deeply-shaded forehead, at which every one 
 present laughed and joked. 
 
 “Gentlemen,” said I, “I knew you would be sur- 
 prised ; though it is very natural for a son to kiss his 
 mother. At any rate, you cannot say that, upon this 
 occasion, I have shown my love and taste for the fair sex.” 
 A hearty laugh concluded this innocent bit of fun. 
 
 My guardsman, Thomas, who had continued his 
 journey, had by this time nearly reached his destination. 
 After a sharp gallop I caught him, and just in time to 
 rescue the piece of beef he had carried safety so far. I 
 found him drinking brandy with several of the French 
 
270 
 
 THE BEEF RESCUED. 
 
 Imperial Guard, at their canteen; and he was exhibiting' 
 the choice piece, which I had wrapped up so carefully in 
 a cloth and packed in a basket. It was the admiration 
 of all who formed the merry group. They said to him, 
 “ Anglais roast-beef — bono Johnny.” This was all 
 their conversation upon the subject previous to its 
 capture, which I have no doubt would have been the 
 case had I not made my appearance. Seeing the immi- 
 nent danger in which the choice morsel was placed, and 
 aware that nothing but a ruse de guerre could rescue it 
 from the hands of the enemy — 
 
 “ Thomas,” said I, in French, “ how dare you stop 
 drinking in this way, when you know that General 
 Canrobert must have that beef roasted for his dinner; 
 and it is already past three o’clock. (“By Jupiter!” 
 said one of them, “ it’s no go — it’s for the Commander- 
 in-Chief.”) Go along with you ! (He began to inquire 
 what I said.) Don’t answer me, sir, or you shall have a 
 night in the guard-house. Fray, my fine fellow, which 
 is the nearest way to the French head-quarters ? I had 
 better carry it myself— I shall be there first. Give it me,” 
 said I, taking the basket, and ordering Thomas to follow. 
 
 Bidding the astonished soldiers adieu, I galloped off 
 with my prize. Upon arriving at head-quarters, I rated 
 Thomas for his stupidity, and went to the kitchen to ask 
 for a large dish to put the beef on. It quite astonished 
 Monsieur Armand, as he had seen none of that quality 
 before. Indeed, it contrasted strangely with some beef 
 he had upon the table. 
 
 “ You are more comfortable now,” I said, “ since those 
 few additions have been made to your kitchen?” 
 
 “ Very much so; and I am extremely obliged to you 
 for what you have done.” 
 
 “You have a very good roasting fireplace. Will you 
 be kind enough to have that piece of beef roasted to a 
 turn for Lord Raglan’s dinner to-morrow, as it is 
 Sunday ?” 
 
 “Yes,” said he; “it comes quite a projpos; and I will 
 roast it as well as I can, but must suspend it by a cord,, 
 as I have no spit.” 
 
A THEME OF ADMIRATION. 
 
 271 
 
 “Do so — that will be more camp fashion; but pray 
 don’t bake it, for that would spoil it, and you don’t 
 know the trouble I had to get it as far as this in 
 safety.” 
 
 I then told him about Thomas and the French 
 soldiers, at which he could not help laughing, saying, 
 “ It has had a narrow escape, for those devils of Zouaves 
 will steal the coat from your back. A few days ago they 
 stole a whole sheep from that bit of a larder I have here 
 in the yard.” 
 
 # “ You had better give it to the steward to keep in his 
 pantry till to-morrow — it will then be safe.” 
 
 “ I will do so.” 
 
 As Thomas was carrying it into the house, we met 
 several officers, who inquired whence it came. I went 
 and showed it to Colonel Steele, begging that he would 
 be kind enough to offer it to Lord Raglan, with my 
 respects. While I was in Colonel Steele’s room, in 
 walked Sir George Brown and his aide-de-camp. 
 
 “Bravo,” said the latter, looking at it; “you have 
 indeed improved the ration meat, if this is a specimen.” 
 
 “ It is,” I replied ; “ but I am sorry to add that it is 
 both specimen and stock.” 
 
 “ It is certain,” said the general, “ I have seen no such 
 meat since I left England. Where does it come from?” 
 
 “ Alexandria, general.” 
 
 “ Oh, that’s a long way to bring it in large quantities.” 
 
 “ Truly, general ; but this is only an out-of-the-way 
 piece. I think we may shortly have plenty, and at a 
 moderate price, and from a nearer place. No time is 
 lost ; but, as the proverb says, c the world was not created 
 in a day.’ ” 
 
 At this moment Lord Raglan came in, quite by 
 chance. “ Hallo, Monsieur Soyer,” said he, “ what have 
 you got there ?” 
 
 “A piece of ration beef, my lord, with a certain 
 addition of fat; and I beg your acceptance of it for to- 
 morrow’s dinner. I have seen Armand about it, and he 
 has promised to do it to a turn.” 
 
 “ That’s very kind of you,” said his lordship, giving 
 
272 LOUD Raglan’s good-nature. 
 
 his orders to the colonel, and inquiring, at the same 
 time, about a very important telegraphic despatch. 
 
 cc But I must again tell you, as I mentioned once 
 before, you will not find my cook a first-rate cordon bleu” 
 “ Well, my lord, no doubt he does his best, according 
 to the quality of the provisions, which, your lordship 
 must be aware, are not first-rate. At all events, I 
 shall trust this marvel to his skill; and if he does it to a 
 turn, as he has promised, he will prove the correctness 
 of my countryman’s words — Brillat Savarin — who says, 
 in his Physiologie du Gout , ‘On devient cuisinier, mais 
 on est nait rotisseur.’ ” 
 
 “ That is a charming work of Savarin’ s,” said his lord- 
 ship. “ Well, Soyer,” continued he, “ this certainly looks 
 like English beef. Where does it come from?” 
 
 “ From Alexandria, my lord. I dined the other day 
 on board the Etna , and we had a splendid piece of roast 
 beef for dinner. I at once claimed a portion for your 
 lordship’s table ; and the captain ordered the best piece 
 to be put by — and here it is.” 
 
 "Very kind of him, very kind — and of you too. 
 Monsieur Soyer.” As Lord Raglan said this, he turned 
 and gave his orders to Colonel Steele. 
 
 “ Have you found your pony ?” 
 
 “I believe so. I hear it is in the stables of the 
 93rd Regiment, and I am going to look for it directly.” 
 “ You are lucky,” said he ; “ for some fellows have 
 actually stolen thirty live sheep and several mules from 
 here.” 
 
 “ Have they indeed ?” 
 
 “ Yes, I assure you it is too true. Is it not, Steele?” 
 “ So I was told.” 
 
 “ Oh, I hear Miss Nightingale is soon going back.” 
 
 “ Yes, as soon as she is sufficiently strong to bear the 
 voyage.” 
 
 Lord Raglan then left the room. Never was there a 
 man at all times more composed and collected than he 
 was ; and he always had a kind word and smile for those 
 around him, even at the most critical times. 
 
 Several days had by this time elapsed since the 
 
A CURIOUS MISTAKE. 
 
 273 
 
 departure of the expedition for Kertch, and no news of 
 its movements had been received. The harbour looked 
 very dull. Not knowing how to spend my evening, I 
 went with a friend to Kadikoi, and dined there. Whilst 
 at table, an officer who knew me, and who was reading 
 the last number of the Illustrated London Neivs , addressed 
 me with a “ Hallo, Monsieur Soyer, they have got you in 
 the Illustrated this week.” 
 
 “ Have they ?” said I. “ Oh, I see — it is the last 
 letter I sent from Scutari.” 
 
 “ Yes, it is,” he replied. 
 
 “ About the opening of my kitchen ? Yes, and here 
 is the sketch. I did not notice that before.” 
 
 He then passed the paper to me. On perusing the 
 letter, I perceived that the printer had made a slight 
 mistake, and one of vital importance to me, as it operated 
 to the detriment of the purveyor-in-chief at Scutari, as 
 well as to the authorities. The blunder was as follows. 
 In one passage of my letter I made special remarks upon 
 the inferior quality of the provisions to be obtained at 
 Constantinople. They had inserted the inferior quality 
 of provisions purchased at Constantinople. I hardly 
 knew how to rectify such a serious mistake, so I at once 
 resolved to go and explain the matter to Lord Raglan, 
 before he could hear from any other quarter, of what he 
 might suppose to be my ill-feeling towards a party from 
 whom I had previously informed his lordship I had 
 received the greatest assistance and kindness. I imme- 
 diately returned to the Baraguay d’Hilliers , and found 
 Peter Morrison on board. I showed him the paper; 
 and he at once approved of my resolve, and offered to 
 accompany me to head-quarters. 
 
 Though rather late — it was dusk — I borrowed a pony 
 from the Commandant and a mule from Colonel Dennis. 
 By way of a change I rode the mule, and off we went in 
 true campaigning style. We were overtaken by night 
 before we could reach head-quarters. It was at all 
 times imprudent to be out after dark, as violence and 
 robbery were of daily occurrence. At length, after a 
 detour of about a mile, we saw the gleam of several 
 
 T 
 
274 
 
 EXPLANATIONS. 
 
 lights, and riding towards them, found ourselves safe at 
 head-quarters, having fortunately hit upon the place. 
 The party were at dinner. After waiting a short time, 
 the steward came and told me that dinner was over, 
 and the gentlemen were taking their wine. I then 
 begged him to inform Colonel Steele of my arrival, and 
 say I should feel obliged if he would step into his room 
 for a few minutes, as I had something important to com- 
 municate. Upon receiving my message, Colonel Steele 
 immediately came out. 
 
 “ Good evening, colonel. Very sorry to disturb you.” 
 “ Never mind that. Monsieur Soyer. But what brings 
 you here so late at night ? Are you staying here ?” 
 u No, my dear colonel ; I am still at Balaklava, but on 
 the Baraguay d’Hilliers instead of the London .” 
 
 “ Indeed. Well, she’s a much better vessel. But 
 what can I do for you ?” 
 
 “ I will tell you. I am much annoyed at a mistake 
 which has occurred in the printing of a letter of mine 
 which has appeared in this number of the Illustrated 
 London Neics . There are only two words misplaced, but 
 they entirely alter my meaning. Pray read those few 
 lines, colonel,” I continued, giving him the paper, and 
 pointing them out; the letter being to the following 
 effect : — 
 
 That in the description they gave of the opening of my kitchen at 
 Scutari, in the number of the 14th inst., an error crept in, occasioned 
 by the omission of a word, which entirely alters my sentiment, 
 and if not contradicted would reflect much discredit upon the 
 authorities at Scutari, [and thereby inflict a serious injustice. The 
 sentence to which I referred appears in the paper thus — ] “ That I 
 prepared my bill of fare according to the provisions allowed, which 
 are at all times of an inferior quality;” whilst the passage should 
 run as follows : — “ That I prepared my hill of fare according to 
 the provisions allowed , which at all times are of an inferior 
 quality at Constantinople in comparison to English provisions.” 
 
 a I suppose you meant to say, the provisions to be 
 obtained.” 
 
 “ Exactly, colonel.” 
 
 <e What do you wish me to do ?” 
 
 (C Merely to be kind enough to explain the error to 
 
MADAME SOYER’s PICTURE. 
 
 275 
 
 Lord Raglan to-morrow, as it would appear very un- 
 grateful on my part to the authorities at Scutari; more 
 especially as I informed his lordship that those gentle- 
 men had done everything in their power to assist me.” 
 
 “ I had better do it at once. His lordship has just done 
 dinner. I will go and show it to him ; you can walk in 
 with me.” 
 
 “ No, I thank you ; I had rather wait here.” 
 
 In a few minutes he returned with the paper, saying, 
 “ I have shown it to Lord Raglan, and he will make a 
 note of it.” 
 
 He had scarcely uttered the words, when I heard his 
 lordship inquiring in the corridor, “ Where is Monsieur 
 Soyer? where is he?” and in he walked, followed by 
 his Staff, seven or eight in number, among whom was 
 Dr. Pennefather. The Commander-in-chief was dressed 
 in plain clothes, and looked very well, full of health and 
 vigour. His fine open countenance, so characteristic 
 of the man, was more brilliant than ever, and his con- 
 versation quite jocular. After alluding to the step I had 
 just taken, and which, he observed, was very thoughtful 
 on my part, he promised to have the parties informed of 
 the mistake, and of my explanation. 
 
 “ Monsieur Soyer,” (Lord Raglan, as he said this, was 
 standing in the doorway, leaning on his right shoulder, 
 with his legs crossed, and surrounded by several gentle- 
 men, forming a group which I shall not forget as long as 
 I live,) “you must have known my old friend Ude?” 
 
 “ I did, my lord.” 
 
 “ How many years were you at the Reform Club ?” 
 
 “Above twelve. It was old Mr. Ude who gave the 
 late Madame Soyer away when we were married ; so we 
 often visited him.” 
 
 “Lord Alvanley, who had apartments at Mr. Ude*s, 
 lived there for years, and I frequently visited him,” said 
 Lord Raglan. 
 
 “ If so, no doubt your lordship will recollect a very 
 interesting picture of a country girl going to market* 
 with a basket of poultry under her arm ?” 
 
 “ I do, very well indeed, and I know it was painted by 
 
 t 2 
 
276 
 
 SACKED MEMORIALS. 
 
 your wife. It was very cleverly done. But you had all her 
 best pictures at the Reform Club. You showed them to 
 me yourself.” 
 
 “ I recollect doing so perfectly well.” 
 
 “ She was a v%ry talented woman indeed !” observed 
 several of the gentlemen present, who had seen her 
 pictures. 
 
 “ She was an Englishwoman, was she not, Monsieur 
 Soyer?” said his lordship. 
 
 “ Yes, my lord ; her maiden name was Emma Jones.” 
 
 “ Of course,” rejoined one of the group, “ her paintings 
 were well known by that name.” 
 
 “ So they were, captain, and fetched high prices too. 
 I do not sell any now ; on the contrary, I still have my 
 gallery complete, and have bought in several since her 
 death. I offered old Ude fifty guineas for the painting 
 in his possession called ‘La Jeune Fermiere/ but he 
 would not part with it, as it was presented to him by her. 
 Previous to my departure from England for the East, 
 I was advised by the chaplain of the cemetery to insert 
 on the monument the country of her birth, as many 
 believed her to be a foreigner. The inscription was 
 simply ‘To Her/ I then composed the following 
 laconic epitaph r — 
 
 4 TO THE MEMORY OF MADAME SOYER. 
 
 England gave her birth, 
 
 Genius immortality.’ ” 
 
 “Very good indeed,” said his lordship. “I myself 
 have seen the monument, which is considered one of the 
 finest in Kensal-green Cemetery. 
 
 “ I was saying, Soyer, that I frequently visited 
 Alvanley ; and we always knew when Ude and his wife 
 were at home, for they never ceased quarrelling. They 
 kept five or six dogs, and what with their barking and 
 the quarrelling of master and mistress, I never heard 
 such a noise in my life. I often wondered how Lord 
 Alvanley could put up with it ; but he said he was used 
 to it, and could hardly feel comfortable anywhere else.” 
 
 “Talk of quarrelling, I believe they could not exist 
 without it — not even on birthdays; and if you will 
 allow me, I will relate a singular birthday anecdote.” 
 
A BIRTHDAY BANQUET. 
 
 277 
 
 “ Pray do, Soyer.” 
 
 “ You must know that the old gentleman, though very 
 avaricious, now and then came out in first-rate style with 
 his gastronomic parties ; but the great day of all was 
 the 15th of August in each year — being the fete and 
 birthday of the illustrious and far-famed Louis Eustache 
 Ude. Upon these occasions, about four-and-twenty of 
 his most devoted and illustrious disciples were invited, 
 with their wives, to a most sumptuous dinner at his 
 house. The grandeur of the gold and silver ornaments 
 was actually cast into the shade by the elegance and 
 succulence of the mets they contained. The choicest 
 articles in season — viz., fish, flesh, poultry, vegetables, 
 and fruit — seemed to have been waiting to come to perfec- 
 tion for this high-priest of the gastronomic art, and 
 many culinary inventions which still delight the scien- 
 tific palates of the epicures of the day had their origin 
 at that Lucullusian anniversary. 
 
 “ Upon one of these great occasions, Madame Soyer and 
 myself were invited. As it was the first to which I had 
 been invited, I was very anxious to go. About a week 
 previous, so strong was my wish to be present at this 
 feast, I asked the committee to grant me leave of 
 absence from duty for one evening, and they kindly 
 acceded to my request. To the minute, heure militaire , 
 we were there, and were saluted upon our arrival by the 
 usual dogmatic chorus, which for a few minutes prevented 
 our hearing a word that was spoken. At length we 
 were all seated, Mr. Ude at the top of the table, and 
 Mrs. Ude facing him. 
 
 “It was, I must repeat, a most superb and elegantly laid- 
 out board. The best part of the dessert, which is always 
 refreshing to the sight, c particularly in the middle of 
 August/ had been made a perfect study. Soup was duly 
 served, and highly praised by the culinary convives and 
 judges. It was a bisque (V ecrevisses. The Madeira was 
 circulating cheerfully round the table, to the trinquing of 
 glasses, after the old French fashion, when an unfortunate 
 guest, having probably too far to reach a beloved friend, put 
 his foot forward, and unfortunately deposited it upon the 
 paw of one of the enfans cheris de la maison . Vermilion— 
 
278 
 
 A FAMILY SQUABBLE. 
 
 that was the name of the plaintiff — being an enfant gate \ 
 seized upon the leg*, which happened to be bootless, as 
 the unlucky guest wore thin shoes. The dog made a 
 slight indenture with his teeth, causing him involun- 
 tarily to reply to the attack of Vermilion; three or four 
 more of the four-legged tribe joined the battle-cry, and 
 the noise was intolerable. The compliments which passed 
 between the host and hostess were pithy and violent,, 
 though scarcely heard through the din, excepting by 
 those who happened to be seated close to them. We 
 were fortunately about the centre of the table, and all we 
 could catch was — 
 
 “ c Oh, you stupid old man ! why did you not lock the 
 dogs upstairs, as I told you to do ?’ 
 
 “ c Be quiet, madam P replied Mr. IJde. ‘ This is my 
 birthday, and I will have no quarrelling / 
 
 “ ‘ No more will I ; but why did you not lock up your 
 dogs ?’ 
 
 “ ‘ Well, madam, I am sure they were quiet enough till 
 that stupid young man trod upon poor Vermilion's paw/ 
 “ c Stupid young man, did you say? Mr. Ude, pray 
 how dare you insult my relation ? If any one is stupid 
 here, it is you, Mr. Ude V 
 
 “ c Will you be quiet, madam ?’- — f No, I shall not V 
 “ ‘ What, not on my birthday ! There, take that/ 
 u As he said this, he threw some almonds across the 
 table, and his wife replied with some projectiles snatched 
 up at random from other portions of the dessert. The 
 dogs joined in the fray, and entirely upset the party.. 
 All the ladies left the table. The young man who had 
 been bitten attempted to apologize; in return for which 
 concession on his part, the great Louis Eustache and his 
 amiable spouse returned a volley of abuse. An hour 
 elapsed before anything like order could be established, 
 when several ladies returned to the table, while a few re- 
 mained to console the victimized spouse. The great Mr. 
 Ude had bravely retained his important position, and, 
 still violently excited, commenced helping the fish — a 
 magnificent crimped Gloucester salmon, procured at 
 Groves’s in Bond-street — which was by this time as 
 cold as ice. 
 
CANINE VISITORS. 
 
 279 
 
 “ c Only fancy/ .ejaculated the enraged Amphitryon, 
 c even on my birthday ! Upon my word, she is a wretch ! 
 She never will — * Then, by way of parenthesis, to the 
 waiter, c Go round with the sauce, you stupid ! don’t 
 stand there staring like a fool/ — ' Prosper ! no, I’m sure 
 she never, never will prosper !’ 
 
 “ At length something like harmony was restored ; but 
 only six ladies out of eleven returned; the others re- 
 mained with Mrs. Ude, and, I believe, dined upstairs. 
 Much to our sorrow and disappointment, one of the 
 finest dinners of the season was served up cold, and 
 entirely spoiled, through the pugnacity of Louis Eustache 
 Ude’s favourite pup.” 
 
 All laughed heartily at the anecdote, particularly Lord 
 Raglan, who then told us that Ude had called upon him 
 several mornings respecting a cook he had applied for to 
 Mr. Ude, for his brother, the Duke. 
 
 “Ude,” said Lord Raglan, “called several mornings, 
 first with two dogs, then three, next four. At last I said 
 to him, 'I am very much obliged to you, Mr. Ude, for 
 your kind visits respecting my brother’s cook, and shall 
 be happy to see you at any time — but in future without 
 your four-legged companions.’ 
 
 “'Why?’ asked the great chef \ rather put out. 
 
 “ ' My dear sir, if you want an explanation, inquire of 
 the housemaid !’ He rushed out, and never called again; 
 but he sent the cook all the same. Ude was an excellent 
 manager, and a good cook, but had a very odd temper ; 
 he died very rich.” 
 
 “ Very rich indeed.” 
 
 “ To whom did he leave his fortune ?” 
 
 “ Oh, to his favourite pet, Madame Ude. She is still 
 alive, and lives in the same house in Albemarle-street.” 
 
 “ Really, I did not know that !” 
 
 “ My lord, and gentlemen, I wish you good evening, 
 and thank you for your kindness.” 
 
 “ You must take some refreshment, Soyer, before you 
 go. Order what you want. Steward, wait upon Mon- 
 sieur Soyer.” 
 
 They then all went out, and sat upon the door-steps, 
 smoking their cigars. Lord Raglan was that night in 
 
280 
 
 MULE OR CHARGER. 
 
 a very jovial mood : Colonel Steele observed to me, “ Did 
 you ever know or see a finer man for his age ? Is he 
 not still full of life and vigour, and the picture of an 
 English nobleman ?” 
 
 “He is, indeed; and I always notice that he has 
 plenty of fun and jokes.” 
 
 “ That is true ; but more so with you, as you are not 
 a military man. He is very strict on duty.” 
 
 As I was taking some refreshment, Lord Raglan came 
 to me, and said, “Monsieur Soyer, I wish you would 
 give my cook, Armand, the receipt to make that excel- 
 lent French pot-au-feu you gave me when I saw you at 
 the Reform Club.” 
 
 “ I will ; and those vegetables-chollet I have sub- 
 mitted to your lordship will be the very thing for it. 
 They are made of common vegetables, exactly suitable 
 for that soup. It is by far the best, most wholesome, 
 and nutritious for the troops.” 
 
 “ I am confident of that,” said his lordship, going back 
 to his seat. 
 
 I then went out through the side door to fetch my 
 mule, which P. Morrison had been walking about the 
 courtyard along with his pony. Jumping upon it, I 
 rode up to the group, to say good-night to Lord Raglan 
 and all present. 
 
 “ Hallo,” Lord Raglan exclaimed, “ where is the 
 charger you had the other day ? What is that you are 
 mounted upon ?” 
 
 “ A mule, my lord, belonging to Colonel Dennis of 
 the Dragoons.” 
 
 “ Ah, you are much safer upon that.” 
 
 “I feel so, I assure you, my lord. The charger to 
 which you allude belonged to Colonel Hardinge.” 
 
 “ So I heard.” 
 
 “ It was a good joke on the part of the Commandant. 
 I asked him to do me the favour of lending me his light 
 pony, and he sent me his large charger, which ran away 
 with me, but fortunately not towards Sebastopol.” At this 
 they all laughed heartily; and I and P. Morrison departed. 
 
 When we were about half a mile from head-quarters, 
 we heard a sharp fusillade in the direction of Sebastopol, 
 
GOOD NEWS FROM KERTCH. 
 
 281 
 
 and there was a lull in the cannonade and shelling, 
 which had not ceased during my stay at head-quarters. 
 We proceeded to the Turkish camp, situated on the 
 heights to the right, from whence we could plainly see 
 the firing. The Turkish soldiers were in high glee, 
 singing, dancing, smoking, drinking coffee, and playing 
 no end of Oriental instruments, which, however well 
 tuned, were by no means in harmony. They were 
 bivouacked all over the camp ; some of the officers who 
 were smoking offered us chibouques and coffee, which 
 we declined, as it was then so late. We left, thanking 
 them for their civility. 
 
 As we rode along, I could not help remarking to P. 
 Morrison the extraordinary contrast of the two scenes, 
 witnessed nearly on the same spot and within a short 
 interval — the present one all fun and glee, the other a 
 scene of death and carnage, where hundreds of human 
 beings were being launched into eternity. Such are the 
 chances and the variation of war. It was after twelve 
 when we arrived at Balaklava, and were safe on board. My 
 heroic companion related the terrible fright he had been 
 in all the way back, having seen most dreadful things, in 
 the shape of ghosts, brigands, and murderers. It is true 
 that on one occasion we were arrested; but it was by a 
 wide ditch, which we could not easily jump over without 
 risking a bath with the frogs, it being one of the resorts 
 of those aquatic quadrupeds. We had lost our way, the 
 road being invisible, and no landmarks, as the camps 
 were being daily changed from one spot to another. These 
 were the tribulations caused by the printer or my illus- 
 trious secretary. The next morning the captain of the 
 vessel came to my cabin, and informed me that Kertch 
 and other places in the Sea of Azoff were taken. 
 
 The news of such a victory was most welcome, and the 
 harbour was gaily decorated with hundreds of coloured 
 flags of the Allied nations. Everything seemed to revive, 
 and all felt anxious to visit the newly-conquered land of 
 Kamara, which had been taken a few days before. In 
 company with a few others, I started at four a.m. to 
 visit these champs fleuris . Nothing could be more 
 refreshing than the sight of that gorgeous harvest, which 
 
282 
 
 ENCHANTING SCENES. 
 
 seemed to have suddenly sprung up amidst deserted and 
 arid rocks, sand, and gravel, where all had before been 
 condemned to exile. Nothing in my whole existence 
 appeared more grateful and refreshing to the mind, as 
 well as the eye, than the odour from those perfumed 
 valleys of myriads of wild flowers, shaded from the 
 burning heat of the sun by a tall verandah of long green 
 grass, the top of which softly caressed the chests of our 
 horses as they trotted through these thickly- populated 
 floral prairies. Myriads of etoiles des champs, daisies, 
 buttercups, bluebells, cornflowers, poppies, birdseyes, &c., 
 and many others unknown in this country, were seen 
 on every side. Clouds of butterflies were seen gaily 
 sporting from flower to flower, taking from each a 
 kiss perfumed by the zephyr of the morn. Even our 
 horses seemed to enjoy the scene so fully, that we let 
 them graze for about an hour. We then arrived near 
 the charming rivulet and valley, the Tchernaya, which, 
 though far from being as beautiful as many in France or 
 England, possesses numerous charms to an uninitiated eye. 
 
 We mounted our horses, and went through the Kamara 
 Mountains, the scenery of which resembles that of 
 Devonshire, Wales, or the Highlands of Scotland. We 
 returned home by the edge of the beautiful cliffs which 
 border the Bay of Balaklava. Such a day is not to be 
 easily forgotten, rendered still more agreeable by the 
 cordial reception we met with from the officers in the 
 French and Sardinian camps, and the presence of a most 
 charming compagnon de voyage (Mr. Stowe), a very 
 promising young man in high literature. The various 
 notes he took on the spot are worthy of Thomson's 
 Seasons. 
 
 I heard from Mr. Bracebridge that Miss Nightingale 
 was greatly improving, of which I was of course well aware, 
 as I went every day to the Sanatorium to prepare a few 
 light things for her lunch or dinner. Fie also informed 
 me that her intention was to leave Balaklava shortly for 
 Scutari ; to which I replied, that having done all I 
 could in the camp for the present, I was quite ready to 
 go. As I had also heard that my field-stoves had 
 arrived, and had been landed by mistake at that place, I 
 
CAMP POUNDS. 
 
 decided upon going to fetch them myself. Mr. Brace- 
 bridge having found some round stoves which were sent 
 out for winter use, proposed having the tops cut off and 
 some pans introduced, which would make them similar 
 to mine (as he thought) . “ At all events,” said he, “ I 
 
 shall make a trial, and show it at head-quarters.” 
 
 I very reluctantly consented to this. It took five or 
 six days to make a strong tin pan, which, when done 
 and fixed in the stove, we took to head-quarters, and 
 showed to Lord Raglan and a number of generals present. 
 I made some coffee in it (that being the quickest thing), 
 which was approved of. But having brought my small 
 model stove with me, I pointed out to Lord Raglan that 
 each pan would cost thirty shillings, and the stoves 
 would not be worth five shillings soon afterwards, as they 
 would be burnt through, thus proving the superiority of 
 my plan. Lord Raglan advised me to wait till my own 
 arrived. Mr. Bracebridge and myself afterwards went 
 to the General Hospital, and there saw Dr. Mouatt, who 
 had not succeeded in getting the bricks for the kitchen 
 oven. 
 
 Having completed our camp rounds, Mr. Bracebridge 
 said he was compelled to leave me, upon some private 
 business. I afterwards learnt that he went to the trenches, 
 and, being both very imprudent and curious, was as 
 nearly as possible taken prisoner or shot. He had 
 appointed to meet me by five o^clock at head-quarters, 
 but did not come. I paid Dr. Hall and a few friends 
 round head-quarters a short visit, as I feared I might 
 not have another opportunity previous to my departure 
 from the Crimea. It was quite dark when I got back. 
 Mr. Bracebridge had not returned, and we were begin- 
 ning to fear that something had happened to him. The 
 next morning he was on board early, and active as ever, 
 recounting his adventures. I that morning went on 
 board Lord Ward’s yacht, but its owner was on shore 
 — so I left word that I would call again. The next 
 day I had the honour of receiving the following invitation 
 from Lord Ward, to go on an excursion in his yacht as 
 far as Lukas, the palace of Prince Woronzoff. 
 
284 
 
 LORD WARD’S INVITATION. 
 
 Steam-ship “ London ,” JBalaldava Harbour, Wednesday . 
 
 Sir, — You were kind enough to promise to visit me on board 
 my ship, the London. To-morrow we propose visiting Yalta and 
 Aloupka, calling on the way at the pretty country-seat belonging to 
 Prince Woronzoff. If not engaged, will you go with us ? You will 
 perhaps at the same time be kind enough to give a few hints to my 
 cook in the mysteries of the art of which you are so great a master. 
 
 I have the honour to remain, yours. 
 
 Ward. 
 
 About eighty persons were invited, and it was with regret 
 that I was obliged to decline ; but a day was indeed a 
 day to me. 
 
 Miss Nightingale got better and stronger every day, 
 and she seemed inclined to remain in the Crimea, 
 observing that, owing to her illness, she had not done 
 half she had intended to do. Every one, and especially 
 the doctors, tried to persuade her that the change of air 
 would do her an immense deal of good. 
 
 It was at last settled that a berth in the first convenient 
 ship leaving the harbour for Scutari should be placed 
 at Miss Nightingale’s disposal. The Jura was fixed 
 upon, as she was then hourly expected, and had only to 
 discharge cargo and return immediately. She had four 
 hundred horses on board, and several hundred troops. 
 The day before her departure Miss Nightingale was 
 brought from the Sanatorium upon a stretcher, carried 
 by eight soldiers, and accompanied by Dr. Hadley, 
 the Reverend Mr. Parker, Mr. Bracebridge, myself, and 
 several Sisters of Charity. When we reached the Jura , 
 tackles were attached to the four corners of the stretcher, 
 and Miss Nightingale was slung on deck bv means of 
 pulleys. We found a very disagreeable smell, caused 
 by the great number of horses, which had only been 
 landed that morning. Miss Nightingale was carefully 
 carried to the chief cabin, a very comfortable one ; yet 
 even there the smell was very offensive. This I men- 
 tioned to the captain, who agreed with me, but said, 
 a We shall no sooner get to sea than it will disappear.” 
 
 The invalid was therefore made as comfortable as 
 possible, and the doctors and every one left. No sooner 
 were they gone than Miss Nightingale fainted. I and 
 
THE EAIRY BARK. 
 
 285 
 
 the hoy Thomas ran in every direction for a doctor. 
 Dr. Hadley, who had just arrived at his residence on the 
 Genoese Heights, came at once, and immediately ordered 
 her to be removed to another vessel. Not being* able 
 to find either Captain Heath or Admiral Boxer, I 
 thought of the Baraguay cB Hilliers , to which Miss 
 Nightingale was at once safely removed, and where I 
 hoped she would be very comfortable till we could get 
 an order from the admiral for another ship. The same 
 evening Admiral Boxer came on board to say that he 
 would at once look out for one. The next afternoon 
 Mr. Bracebridge and myself went to head-quarters, to 
 apprise Lord Baglan of the cause of Miss Nightingale’s 
 non-departure. His lordship was out, and Mr. Bracebridge 
 left a message to the effect that he hoped Lord Raglan 
 would not trouble himself about the matter, as Admiral 
 Boxer would attend to it, and that Miss Nightingale 
 was quite comfortable on board the Baraguay cV Hilliers. 
 We then made a few farewell calls at the First and 
 Third Divisions, and also at the Guards’ camp, near 
 Balaklava. 
 
 It was nearly midnight when we were shouting, 
 pianoly, “ Baraguay cV Hilliers ahoy!” No reply was 
 made to either the first or second hail, so I raised the 
 dismal melody a few notes higher, which at last brought, 
 to our astonishment, a beautiful boat manned by six 
 smart oarsmen. The craft was handsomely painted, 
 having a small red and white burgee at the stern. At 
 first I thought it was an optical delusion, or a fairy 
 scene raised by the magic power of Ondine, the queen of 
 the waters. In less than two minutes they neared the 
 shore, and one of the fairies addressed us thus : “ Pray, 
 are you the gentlemen who are accompanying Miss 
 Nightingale ?” 
 
 a We are,” said I. 
 
 “ I and my men have been waiting for you, sir, these 
 three hours.” 
 
 “ How is that ?” asked Mr. Bracebridge. 
 
 “ I cannot tell you further, than that we were sent to 
 fetch Miss Nightingale, and referred to you. I believe 
 you are Mr. Bracebridge?” 
 
286 
 
 A MIDNIGHT MEETING. 
 
 “Yes; and I am at a loss to understand what you 
 mean.” 
 
 “ I’ve brought a letter from our master. Lord Ward, 
 which will explain all.” 
 
 “ Where is it ?” 
 
 “ I have delivered it on board; but the last orders from 
 his lordship were, that if I had to wait all night, I was 
 to bring you to him.” 
 
 “ Why ? Don’t you know ?” 
 
 “Not exactly. But I am sure his lordship is still 
 waiting for you ; so you had better come as far as the 
 London — it wont take you ten minutes.” 
 
 We then jumped in. Mr. Braeebridge said, “I tell 
 you how it is : no doubt Lord Ward has heard of what 
 has happened, and probably intends to offer to take Miss 
 Nightingale in his yacht to Scutari.” 
 
 “Very likely; but it would not do to accept the 
 invitation without first obtaining the permission of 
 Admiral Boxer.” 
 
 “ W e shall see, Mr. Braeebridge. Perhaps Lord Ward 
 will lend it to the invalid ; for he has only just arrived, 
 and it is doing nothing.” 
 
 On getting on board the New London , we found that 
 Lord Ward, tired of waiting, had retired to rest, having 
 left special orders to be called the instant we arrived, no 
 matter at what hour. As it was nearly one o’clock, we 
 made all kinds of objections to his being disturbed, but 
 in vain. The lamps were lit in the saloon, and we 
 were invited to walk in. We found Lord Ward en robe - 
 de-chambre , quite ready to receive us. 
 
 “Welcome, gentlemen,” said he. 
 
 We were about to apologize for being so late, when 
 Lord Ward proceeded to say that he had heard of the 
 non-departure of Miss Nightingale, and the cause, and 
 that if she would accept his yacht, he should be happy 
 to place it at her disposal to convey her to Scutari. He 
 added, that she might take her own time, as he intended 
 to remain a fortnight in the Crimea, and that no one 
 should be on board excepting those whom she chose to 
 take with her, and his medical attendant. 
 
 Mr. Braeebridge thanked Lord Ward in his own and 
 
LOUD WARD’S OFFER ACCEPTED. 
 
 287 
 
 Miss Nightingale’s name, and said that he would 
 inform the lady of his lordship’s kind offer in the morn- 
 ing, and communicate her decision. We then left, 
 thus terminating a most unexpected midnight conversa- 
 tion, on the 7th of June, 1855. Nothing was heard in 
 the now peaceable harbour but the splashing of the oars 
 of our fashionable oarsmen, who seertied at every pull to 
 be smashing the Koh-i-noor diamond into hundreds of 
 pieces while disturbing the transparent liquid. The 
 flashes from the guns at Sebastopol were distinctly seen 
 reflected, but not a sound was heard save our good- 
 night to the fairy rowers, as we ascended the rope ladder 
 of the bulky Baraguay d’Hilliers. 
 
 The following morning Mr. Bracebridge consulted 
 with Miss Nightingale. The lady expressed her thanks 
 for Lord Ward’s kind offer, but at the same time justly 
 observed that the matter was in the hands of the 
 admiral, as he might by this time have arranged with 
 another vessel. Inquiries having been made, the admiral 
 recommended Miss Nightingale to accept Lord Ward’s 
 offer, remarking the advantage of having the vessel to 
 herself, while it would be morally impossible for him to 
 give her a passage with the same facilities. It was then 
 decided that the offer should be accepted. Lord Ward 
 soon after called for an answer, and was highly gratified 
 by that lady’s acceptance. He returned on board his 
 vessel, to have every preparation made for her recep- 
 tion. Miss Nightingale was to go on board at four in 
 the afternoon, and sail at eight or nine the next morning. 
 Mr. Bracebridge, Lord Ward’s medical attendant, the 
 Honourable Mr. Wellesley, and myself, were the only 
 persons to accompany her. For the last time I went 
 my hospital and camp rounds ; and in the latter part of 
 that day I thought of going once more to head-quarters, 
 to acquaint Colonel Steele of the final arrangements for 
 our departure. I met the Bev. Mr. Wright, the clergy- 
 man, in front of the General’s house, and asked him 
 where Outer Pacha’s tent was situated, being anxious to 
 leave my card with his excellency before leaving. Mr. 
 Wright kindly pointed out the spot. As I was entering 
 the house, I met Lord Raglan coming out. 
 
288 
 
 LAST INTERVIEW WITH LORD RAGLAN. 
 
 “ Oh, here you are, Monsieur Soyer ! I heard you 
 were gone, or going, with Miss Nightingale. When do 
 you start ?” 
 
 “ Early to-morrow, in Lord Ward’s yacht.” 
 
 “ So I hear. I am very glad of it. She will be much 
 more comfortable.” 
 
 “ Doubtless, my lord.” 
 
 “ Let me see (looking at his watch) ; where are you 
 going ?” 
 
 “Back to Balaklava direct, my lord, having only to 
 make a call for a minute in the Turkish camp.” 
 
 “ If I thought I should not be too late, I would go 
 with you, to say farewell to her.” 
 
 “ Pray don’t give yourself so much trouble. It is 
 getting very late, and must be near your dinner-time. 
 I will inform Miss Nightingale of your kind intentions — 
 that will be quite sufficient.” 
 
 “Wait a few minutes.” — “I will.” 
 
 It was getting dusk, and having waited nearly twenty 
 minutes, I made inquiries as to whether it was likely 
 that Lord Baglan was going to Balaklava. 
 
 “No,” was the answer from one of the Staff, “for he 
 is very busily engaged.” 
 
 I started for the Turkish camp. On my arrival there, 
 I found that Omer Pacha was dining out; so I left my 
 card and respectful compliments, and took the road 
 through the artillery camp. This gave me an oppor- 
 tunity of visiting Colonel St. George, who resided near 
 the small village of Carrara, about two miles from Bala- 
 klava. The kind reception I met with from the Colonel, 
 whom I had not seen since I left Scutari, caused some 
 little delay, and I did not get on board till nearly nine 
 o’clock. To my surprise, I learned that Lord Baglan 
 had just left the London , after paying a farewell visit to 
 Miss Nightingale. This I could hardly believe to be 
 true — the space of time was so short. I much regretted 
 not having waited longer, though certain that his lord- 
 ship could not be offended, as I had left a message with 
 the man on duty in the entrance hall to the effect that I 
 was informed that he was not coming. 
 
2S9 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 OUll STEAM VOYAGE IN THE “ LONDON.” 
 
 Orders to start — An accident in port — Farewells — Colonel Dennis's- 
 good luck — Admiral Boxer’s kindness — En route at last — 
 Crimean Zouave flies — At sea — New scene of enchantment — A 
 good dinner — Rough usage — A fog in the Black Sea — Out of 
 our course — Fittings of the London — Enter the Bosphorus — -- 
 Conversation with Miss Nightingale. 
 
 We slept that night on hoard the Baraguay cVIIilliers y 
 though all our baggage had been removed to the London , 
 and at seven next morning we went on board. Miss 
 Nightingale had passed a most excellent night, and 
 the weather was very fine. Lord Ward, who had slept, 
 at the Commandants, came on board at half-past seven. 
 After inquiring of Mrs. Roberts, the nurse, whether- 
 Miss Nightingale had been comfortable, he gave the 
 captain orders for departure, which he had fixed for 
 twelve o’clock, instead of nine. As the weather was so 
 fine, he proposed that a sofa-bed should be placed upon , 
 deck, and that the captain should take us as far as the 
 Bay of Sebastopol, where we might have a fine view of 
 the besieged city, without incurring the slightest danger.. 
 
 One of the mates told the captain that a vessel 
 full of powder had taken fire in the night, and that 
 Admiral Boxer had been there since two in the morn- 
 ing, working like a negro with the men, and there- 
 fore that he could not see him. I believe Lord Ward 
 knew this, but did not speak of it for fear of causing 
 alarm, and this was no doubt the cause of the delay iir 
 our departure. The deck was crowded the whole morn- 
 ing with visitors, particularly officials, who wished to- 
 pay their respects to Miss Nightingale ; but the doctors 
 had given positive orders for her to see no one. Bala- 
 
 u 
 
290 
 
 GUNPOWDER- PLOT AT BALAKLAVA. 
 
 klava was in a great state of excitement, on account of 
 the fire on board the powder-ship. Some called it the 
 Gunpowder-plot at Balaklava, and an attempt to destroy 
 the British fleet. This was the opinion in the French 
 camp and at Kamiesch. The fleet, by-the-bye, was at 
 that time at least twenty miles from the supposed scene 
 of explosion. 
 
 As there were several matters which I wished to settle 
 before my departure, I asked the captain whether I 
 could land for an hour. 
 
 “ Certainly you can. I don’t think we shall sail 
 before three o’clock ; but be on board by twelve, if pos- 
 sible, or half past at the latest.” 
 
 “ I shall be sure to return in time.” 
 
 I called at the Commissariat respecting the preserved 
 vegetables, the samples of which were daily expected; 
 next, upon Mr. Fitzgerald, the purveyor; and then 
 went to the Abundance. On my way to the steamer, I 
 met Mr. Bracebridge going to Colonel Dennis; and 
 although I had already had the pleasure of saying good- 
 bye to the colonel and his lady, I went back with him. 
 The colonel, who had been seriously ill for several 
 months, was to sail the next day for England, or Malta 
 (I don’t exactly recollect which), and was saying how 
 much he regretted being obliged to leave his regiment — 
 that he feared the voyage would not do him much good, 
 as the steamer he was going by was so full of sick. He 
 had scarcely spoken the words, when in walked Admiral 
 Boxer. 
 
 “ Well, Dennis, my friend ! I bring you good news.” 
 “ What’s that, admiral ?” said the colonel. 
 
 “ Why, I have another vessel going to-morrow, with 
 very few sick on board, and I have secured a good large 
 cabin for yourself and lady.” 
 
 “ Many, many thanks ! my dear admiral,” said Colonel 
 Dennis, in which his lady also joined. 
 
 “ Ah ! Monsieur Soyer, are you here? How are you 
 to-day ?” 
 
 “ Quite well, admiral. I hope you are the same !” 
 
 “ No ; I am very tired.” 
 
HUNTING ZOUAVE ELIES. 
 
 291 
 
 “ Will you take a glass of wine, admiral/* said Colonel 
 Dennis, “ and sit down a minute ?” 
 
 “No, I thank you; my nephew is waiting lunch for 
 me, and I have been up since three o’clock this morning 
 helping to put out the fire on board that ship in the 
 harbour.” 
 
 “ Well, how did you leave it, admiral?” inquired the 
 colonel. 
 
 “ The powder is safe, but the vessel is much damaged.” 
 
 “ Good-bye, Mr. Braeebridge ; good-bye. Monsieur 
 Soyer. I shall see you again — I am coming on board 
 in an hour. You will not sail till three o’clock. Indeed,” 
 said he, going out, “ I must take some lunch first, for I 
 feel very faint.” 
 
 “ You’re right, admiral,” said I ; “ you work so hard, 
 that if you don’t take care of number one, you will kill 
 yourself.” 
 
 “ No fear of that, Monsieur Soyer; nothing can hurt 
 an old fellow like me.” 
 
 He then almost ran, instead of walking. Bidding the 
 colonel and his lady adieu, Mr. Braeebridge and myself 
 immediately went on board, fearing we might get late. 
 Many visitors were still there, and the captain and 
 Lord Ward begged of them to retire. A few minutes 
 after, we were en route . The admiral was expected, but 
 did not come ; he sent some of his officials instead. As 
 soon as we were under way, the couch was brought on 
 deck — Miss Nightingale lying upon it. Mrs. Roberts 
 held a white umbrella over her face to screen her from 
 the extreme heat of the sun, fanning her at the same 
 time. In the saloon, Lord Ward and myself were busily 
 engaged in a most extraordinary sport, hunting the 
 Crimean Zouave flies, which, no matter how you repulsed 
 them, always came back to the charge. We had by 
 this time entered the bay, but were still on half steam. 
 Lord Ward bade Miss Nightingale farewell, as well as 
 all on board, and went off in a small boat. We then 
 shaped our course for Constantinople direct, it being too 
 late to go and see Sebastopol. It was striking eight 
 bells as we cleared the Bay of Balaklava. 
 
292 
 
 AT SEA. 
 
 We were at sea ; and onr heroine was where I had 
 recommended her to be, viz., between heaven and the 
 ocean. 
 
 Miss Nightingale remained on deck till nearly dusk. 
 The sea was calm, and the burning sky was so strongly 
 reflected upon its surface that we seemed to be rapidly 
 traversing a lake of fire. The radiant face of the sun 
 itself had for some time been concealed by the majestic 
 rock upon which stands the monastery. The turbulent 
 noise of the harbour was succeeded by a dead calm ; 
 even the zephyrs seemed to have deserted the collapsed 
 sails, and nothing was heard but the rapid action of the 
 paddles. Of all on board, only Miss Nightingale, her 
 nurse, and myself seemed to enjoy this new scene of 
 enchantment. The rest of the passengers were slumber- 
 ing in the saloon. Even the turbulent voice of the 
 cannon in and before Sebastopol was mute to our 
 astonished and still-confused ears. Time, it is truly 
 said, tries all ! We were at the seat of war, looking 
 at my watch, only eighty-seven minutes before. 
 
 Owing to the noise of a busy sea-port, as well as 
 the succession of importunate visitors who, though not 
 admitted, were announced and politely answered. Miss 
 Nightingale must have been, I was well aware, much 
 fatigued. I therefore did not touch upon any important 
 subject of conversation, but begged of her to be prudent 
 and return to her cabin before the evening dew began to 
 fall. She could not help expressing her gratification at 
 the sublimity of the sudden change. Her countenance 
 appeared to have imbibed the balm of health, and to 
 have extended it to her feeble frame. 
 
 “ Did I not tell you true, mademoiselle,” said I, 
 “ when I begged of you to leave, were it only for 
 a short time, ‘ ces soucieux rochers, et cette terre 
 d'esclaves V ” 
 
 She smiled, and requested the captain to have her 
 removed to her cabin, which was immediately done. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Bracebridge, and myself, cheerfully 
 obeyed the invitation of an intelligent silver bell which 
 summoned us to dinner at his lordship's table. I trusted 
 
CAUGHT IN A FOG. 
 
 293 
 
 a genuine appetite without the slightest reserve to a 
 well-provided and well-conceived dinner, regretting only 
 having lost the use of my substantial appetite. The wine 
 was on a par with the dinner — excellent. 
 
 Early morn found me shaking hands with my illus- 
 trious confrere the chef, in his turret-like kitchen. I 
 thanked him much for his capital dinner. “ Pray what 
 have we for to-day ? 55 was the last political question I 
 put to him. I am unwilling to append the bill of fare, 
 as it might give an unexpected appetite to my readers, 
 and thus induce them to drop this light reading for 
 something more substantial. That would not answer my 
 purpose, as I wish them to go on with the book without 
 depreciating the cook. The night had been rather rough, 
 and every one on board was ill. The day passed as it 
 generally does when persons have been so roughly 
 nursed by the mother sea. The dinner was probably 
 excellent, but no one could tell — not even myself. 
 Towards night, the rolling waves grew a little more 
 sociable ; so we entered into conversation, and the wine 
 and grog circulated freely. The captain, like all captains 
 who have never been sick or drowned, laughed at us, 
 saying we were bad sailors. 
 
 “The title of 'good sailor 5 I am not ambitious to 
 merit, captain / 5 said I. 
 
 Next morning, I was on deck walking to and fro with 
 the captain ; the night had been a little calmer than the 
 previous one, but very foggy. 
 
 “ Bless my soul ! 55 said he, “ what a bother it is we 
 left Balaklava so late. It is just like his lordship — we 
 never know when we are going to start. I would not 
 give a fig for a voyage of pleasure at sea : business men, 
 sir ! business men for navigation. All is calculated and 
 goes right ; but for the present I don 5 t know where we 
 are, it is so foggy. W e are not far from the coast ; but 
 we can 5 t for the life of us get in, even if we were abreast 
 of the entrance of the Bosphorus. We ought to have 
 got under way, as I proposed, at nine o 5 clock. Have 
 you good sight, sir ? 55 
 
 “ Yes, I have . 55 
 
29-1 THE BOSPHOPOJS ONCE MOPE. 
 
 “Well, look with this glass to the right; I fancy I 
 see the land about seven or eight miles off.” 
 
 “Yes,” said I; “the fog is clearing off on that side,, 
 and I believe it is the land.” 
 
 “ In that case/’ said the captain, “ we are nearly 
 thirty miles out of our way. Though it is very provok- 
 ing, we may thank our stars the weather was more 
 favourable than the night before.” 
 
 It was now nearly five a.m., and the dew was falling 
 very fast. Feeling chilly, I went below, and reposed for a 
 short time upon the sofa. Being thirty miles out of our 
 course grave me time for a good rest before entering the 
 
 o o o 
 
 Bosphorus ; upon making which I was, at my request,, 
 called up. As the sun rose, the fog cleared off, though 
 slowly; the captain made out a landmark, and found 
 that we were, as he had before said, about thirty miles 
 out of our course. The London was fitted up in a princely 
 style; she had two funnels, and was very long. She 
 rolled very much during the voyage, though the sea was 
 not very rough ; her being short of ballast was probably 
 the cause. At all events, it made Miss Nightingale very ill. 
 
 However, our troubles were now at an end; we were 
 slowly entering the mouth of the Bosphorus, amidst a 
 shower of pearls, which gathered in millions upon the 
 rigging and the deck. This was a great relief to us, after 
 the grey fog and thick fine rain — besides being unaware 
 of our exact position, and floating at hazard on the sea; 
 though, thanks to the caution and watchfulness of the 
 captain, we had been in no danger. It was like the open- 
 ing of a fairy scene ; the clouds were slowly disappearing, 
 disclosing to our fatigued and overstrained eyesight the 
 unique panorama of the Bosphorus. Its strong current 
 appeared to overpower the steam, and we seemed to have 
 come to a stand-still. The thousands who have returned 
 from the arid and devastated soil of the Crimea, under 
 its burning sun, must have enjoyed the refreshing sight 
 I have here attempted to describe. Even Miss Nightin- 
 gale had enjoyed it from her cabin. She had been 
 removed to the beautiful saloon upon deck, where she 
 had a good view of the enchanting panorama, and 
 
AT ANCHOR. 
 
 295 
 
 appeared almost recovered from her fatiguing voyage ; 
 which proves how near pain is allied to pleasure, and 
 vice versa , particularly as refers to sea-sickness. Miss 
 Nightingale requested to see me. I went and inquired 
 after her health, which, she said, had improved since we 
 entered the river. She then referred to various things 
 she wished to have in her extra-diet kitchen, and to 
 numerous other matters of importance connected with 
 the hospitals. I requested her to keep her mind quiet, 
 and to depend upon me. 
 
 “No doubt, mademoiselle/” said I, “I shall not have 
 the pleasure of seeing you for some time, and I would 
 certainly advise you not to go out till you are quite 
 restored to health : I will, therefore, send you a journal 
 of my daily proceedings by Mr. or Mrs. Bracebridge, 
 whom I, of course, shall see every day.” 
 
 “ Exactly, Monsieur Soyer ; but I hope I shall soon be 
 able to go about.” 
 
 “ So do I, mademoiselle, but do not attempt it before 
 you are quite well ; and I can assure you, if I were your 
 doctor, I should be very strict with you, as I hear you 
 are more inclined to devote your kind attention to 
 patients than to yourself.” 
 
 She smiled, and replied, “Well, Monsieur Soyer, one 
 is much more gratifying to my feelings than the other.” 
 
 I then spoke about Lord Raglan’s visit, and expressed 
 my regret at not having waited longer for him. 
 
 “I certainly did not expect to see him,” said Miss 
 Nightingale. 
 
 “ Ah, you may expect anything from his lordship, he 
 is such an amiable and gallant man.” 
 
 “ So he is. Monsieur Soyer ; and he has always enjoyed 
 that reputation.” 
 
 W e were at last before the Great Barrack Hospital ; 
 the anchor was let down, breakfast was served, and 
 highly relished by the assembled guests. The chef had 
 distinguished himself upon a dish of semi-grilled and 
 devilled fowl, an omelette aux fines herbes, &c. &c. ; and 
 thus ended our voyage on board the London . We re- 
 turned our hearty thanks to the captain, doctor, and all 
 
896 
 
 A SOLEMN PROCESSION. 
 
 on board, for their kind attention to us, and for the 
 extreme kindness shown to Miss Nightingale; saw our 
 luggage landed, and went on shore. Miss Nightingale 
 would not land till the afternoon, the heat of the sun 
 being so powerful. 
 
 Having apprised Lord W. Paulet of our arrival, I 
 /went my way, and Mr. Bracebridge his. At five o’ clock 
 we again met at the landing-place, and went for Miss 
 Nightingale. One of the large barges used to remove 
 the sick, manned by twelve Turks, was brought alongside. 
 As the roof nearly reached the steamer’s bulwarks, Miss 
 Nightingale was easily lowered upon it. Mrs. Roberts 
 ./was kneeling at her side, and holding a white umbrella 
 over her head. We went below; the sailors gave three 
 cheers ; and our dismal gondola soon reached the shore. 
 Upon landing, the invalid was carried upon a stretcher 
 by four soldiers, accompanied by Lord W. Paulet and 
 Staff, Dr. Cumming (who had visited her on board), fol- 
 lowed by an immense procession, to her private house — 
 at which place all dispersed. 
 
 I do not recollect any circumstance during the cam- 
 paign so gratifying to the feelings as that simple, though 
 grand, procession. Every soldier seemed anxious to show 
 bis regard, and acknowledge his debt of gratitude to one 
 who had so nobly devoted her soul and comfort to their 
 .welfare, even at the risk of her own life. 
 
297 
 
 CHAPTER XXIY. 
 
 THREE WEEKS AT SCUTARI. 
 
 Interview with Lord W. Paulet — Plans discussed — A new medical 
 corps required — Reminiscences — Soyer’s House — An Oriental 
 chorus — Various expedients — Crusade against the rats — Daily 
 duties — The Palace Hospital — Happy hours — Letters to the press 
 — A refractory workman — A dilemma — General good luck — The 
 Governor of Asia’s entertainment — Return visits — A fire in 
 Scutari — A midnight procession — Important honours — Shut 
 out — Arrival of the field-stoves — Interview with the Duke of 
 Newcastle — The Duke’s letter — Preparations for departure — 
 Bornet the Zouave — His qualifications — An indescribable costume. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Bracebridge remained with Miss 
 Nightingale. I went and paid my first visit to Lord 
 William Paulet, having only had the pleasure of catch- 
 ing sight of his lordship at the wharf, owing to the 
 immense crowd. I sent in my card ; and the General no 
 sooner received it, than he kindly walked towards the 
 kiosque drawing-room door to meet me, and gave me a 
 most cordial reception. 
 
 “ Ah, Monsieur Soyer,” said he, “ I am glad to see 
 you again ! How are you ? I have very frequently heard 
 of you ! I hope your services have been as useful in the 
 Crimea as they were here. I am happy to say that, 
 during your absence, I have not heard any complaints, and 
 your system works admirably. Dr. Cumming and I have 
 often spoken on the subject since you have been away.” 
 
 “ It is extremely gratifying to my feelings to hear you 
 speak so favourably of my humble services ; and I have 
 returned for a short time to give a look round, according 
 to promise, as it is very important that no change should 
 take place in the management — which might occur, in- 
 asmuch as my head man Jullien seems determined to 
 leave. I must find some one capable of replacing him, 
 or must take to cooking again myself till I can find a 
 proper person.” 
 
298 
 
 NECESSARY CHANGES. 
 
 “ I hope, Soyer, you will be fortunate enough to meet 
 with a proper person, as, no doubt, you will be obliged 
 to return to the Crimea.” 
 
 “ I am pleased to hear that Sergeant Thompson, whom 
 we placed as superintendent over the soldier- cooks, and 
 the men under him, have behaved so well. He says the 
 men have learned to cook ; but what he and my man 
 Jullien complain of is, that as soon as anybody is well 
 acquainted with his duty, he is recalled to his regiment. 
 I really believe that is the reason why Jullien is leaving. 
 He says, as soon as he gets a good man, he is taken away, 
 and his successor requires to be taught. This will always 
 be the case, my lord, until a medical corps is formed, in 
 which all the different members are subject to the dis- 
 cipline of the army, without being subject to frequent 
 changes. Till such steps are taken, the duties of military 
 hospitals will never be properly performed. I assure you, 
 when I heard Jullien was about to leave, I was much 
 annoyed, and would have given anything to have been 
 able to return forthwith to Scutari. One day’s neglect 
 would have upset all my former success, and corroborated 
 the remark made by your friend Colonel Dennis — ■ that it 
 was all very well so long as I was present ; but as soon as I 
 went away, it would be as bad as ever/ His words would 
 have proved true enough, had I not introduced my sim- 
 plified system of cookery, and my printed receipts, by 
 following which it is impossible for them to err. At all 
 events, I have now been absent two months ; all has gone 
 on right, nor do I see why it should not continue to do 
 so ; but I must repeat, the importance of having the 
 duties of the military hospital properly performed is such, 
 that all the persons employed ought to be subject to 
 military discipline. I cannot depend upon civilians for 
 cooks, although they are so well paid.” 
 
 “Very true. Monsieur Soyer; I am quite of your 
 opinion, and will take a note of it.” 
 
 “ The most important thing at present would be for 
 your lordship to secure a few men, about ten, whom I 
 will instruct in the method of cooking with my new 
 field-stoves.” 
 
PLEASANT HOLES. 
 
 299 
 
 “ I cannot do that, Monsieur Soyer ; I have no power 
 away from this ; but Lord Raglan, who I hear is very 
 partial to you, will soon see the importance of so doing, 
 and will grant your request.” 
 
 “Your lordship is quite right, for Lord Raglan, as 
 well as yourself, has shown me the greatest kindness ; so 
 have all the officials — Colonel Steele in particular, with 
 whom I have had more to do than with any one else.” 
 “I have received a letter from my friend Colonel 
 Douglas, of the 11th Hussars, who tells me they had 
 the pleasure of your company to dinner, and that you 
 kept them quite alive with your funny songs. You were 
 the real cock of the walk, and kept them in a roar of 
 laughter from the beginning to the end.” 
 
 “We did spend a very pleasant evening. There were 
 above twenty guests.” 
 
 “ Ah, I know ! they sent me a list of names. You 
 are aware that was my regiment before I came here.” 
 
 “ Of course I am. Your lordship was in the glorious 
 charge at Balaklava. I hear that the charger your lord- 
 ship rides is the one you rode on that memorable day.” 
 
 “ Yes, it is ; and we were both very fortunate, as 
 you see.” 
 
 “ Very, my lord. In these times everybody is subject 
 to the chances of war, as I observed that evening to 
 Major Peel and Colonel Douglas, upon taking my leave 
 of them : { a few hours such mirth as this — c’est autant 
 de pris stir Vennemi ’ — the French soldier's proverb.” 
 
 “ You are right. How did you find Admiral Boxer ?” 
 “ Rough and good-hearted — working very hard.” 
 
 “I heard several anecdotes of you and the admiral 
 with the Sardinians.” 
 
 “ Did you ? Then you must have heard of my losing 
 four horses.” 
 
 “ No ! I heard of your having lost one, while paying 
 your addresses to the fair Mrs. Seacole.” 
 
 “That was it. We had a good laugh over it, at all 
 events. Mrs. Seacole took a deal of trouble in the 
 matter, and found the pony again. She is an excellent 
 woman, kind to everybody, I can assure you.” 
 
300 
 
 GOSSIP. 
 
 “ Ah, yes, I know her well ; she paid me a visit on 
 her way to the Crimea.” 
 
 “ She told me she had spent a few days with Miss 
 Nightingale.” 
 
 “Talking of Miss Nightingale — she is very much 
 altered.” 
 
 “Very much indeed. She has looked much worse, but is 
 now improving fast. Her life was in the greatest danger.” 
 “ So I heard.” 
 
 “ I hope Lord and Lady Stratford de Redcliffe are well.” 
 “Yes. I had the pleasure of dining with them at 
 Therapia last Sunday : they inquired after you.” 
 
 “ I am very happy to hear it, and shall soon pay my 
 respects to them. I much regretted not being in the 
 Crimea during their visit. The Caracloc left Balaklava 
 the day the Robert Loive left Constantinople ; we there- 
 fore passed at sea.” 
 
 “So I heard. The young ladies were very much 
 pleased with their trip ; but Lady Paget remained there. 
 I suppose you saw her ?” 
 
 “ Yes, I did. Her ladyship was staying on board the 
 Star of the South . I called several times, but at last met 
 her ladyship in the camp, driving out in a species of 
 vehicle, and accompanied by Lord Paget on horseback, 
 to whom I had the honour of being introduced by her 
 ladyship. She really looked so pretty, and her equipage 
 was so bad, that a Canova would have sculptured her as 
 a Venus in a wheelbarrow, instead of in a shell.” 
 
 “Well, I must say, that would be a new, and, no 
 doubt, an interesting subject. By the bye, we shall 
 shortly have a visit from the Duke of Newcastle. I hope 
 you will be here.” — “ Indeed !” 
 
 “Yes, I expect him in seven or eight days.” 
 
 “ I hope his grace will do me the honour of visiting 
 my sanctorum.” 
 
 “ Of course he will, you may depend upon that ; but I 
 will let you know all about it.” 
 
 “As it is near your dinner-time, I wish you good 
 afternoon.” 
 
 “Where are you going to dine. Monsieur Soyer? I 
 
SOYETt’s CASTLE. 
 
 301 
 
 believe I have but meagre fare to offer you — a little soup 
 and a leg' of mutton. Will you dine with me?” 
 
 “ Many thanks — not to-day : we had a late lunch on 
 board; and I have not been to Soyer’s Castle yet, nor 
 seen any of my people.” 
 
 “1 suppose Lord Ward has a first-rate cook on board 
 his steamer ?” 
 
 “A very good one, and excellent provisions and wine. 
 The only thing we required was missing — that was 
 appetite. Though fine at starting, we had a rather 
 rough passage for the time of year.” 
 
 The conversation terminated, and I took my de- 
 parture. It was now too late to make any more calls, 
 so I went straight to the noble mansion called S oyer’s 
 House — a real kiosque, built of wood, very much like 
 a cage. The proprietor was a Turkish carriage-builder, 
 a kind of a duck of a fellow, who always retired 
 to rest at dusk, and rose before daybreak to work. 
 He and four bulky Turkish boys accompanied their 
 incessant hammering by an Oriental chorus, which 
 lasted from four till seven in the morning — their break- 
 fast-time. We not only had the satisfaction of hearing 
 them, but from my bed I could see them at work, 
 through my sieve-like bed-room floor, the boards of 
 which did not meet by about half an inch — no doubt to 
 facilitate the ventilation of this Moslem edifice. The 
 weather being hot, this was bearable; but the harmony 
 of such inharmonious birds was not tolerable; so for 
 several days, and while they were in full chorus, various 
 accidents, in the shape of upsetting large buckets of 
 water, occurred. The refreshing liquid at once found its 
 way to the back of our illustrious landlord, and he changed 
 his tone and air, to invoke the blessing of Mahomet upon 
 our devoted heads: upon which I gave them to under- 
 stand, through an Armenian groom, that if they dared 
 kick up such a row, the General would turn them out of 
 their house. After that we had less singing, but the 
 same quantum of hammering. At all events, we were 
 better than under canvas. 
 
 The house was very spacious: it contained nine rooms 
 of a good size. I had left it tenanted by good company — 
 
302 
 
 ONLY AN EARTHQUAKE. 
 
 viz., three civilian doctors — Burn, Ellis, and Howard — but 
 found it deserted upon my return, by all but the rats and 
 other vermin. I and my people preferred that to living and 
 sleeping at the hospital, and, after a few days* sport, and 
 stopping about three hundred holes, it became habitable. 
 The landlord fortunately had the toothache, and the fat 
 boy, to whom I gave a few piastres to hold his noise, was 
 silent. The ablution of the other now and then with a jug 
 of hot water kept this extraordinary establishment quiet. 
 
 If the interior of this wooden crib was not all comfort, 
 its outside was very cheerful, and rather elegant. It 
 had the appearance of a large Swiss chalet. Vines 
 grew round it; and if the windows were left open, 
 branches of cherry and mulberry trees, loaded with ripe 
 fruit, hung above one*s head as one lay in bed. The 
 strong morning sea-breeze made the house rock like a 
 cradle, and in shaking the trees which were planted 
 close to the house, forced the branches in. Such was, in 
 a few words, Soyer’s House, in Cambridge-street, Scutari, 
 so much envied by almost all, except the man himself. 
 Eive of my people had kept possession in spite of several 
 attempts to take it by storm during my absence. It 
 appeared that lodgings were so scarce, they wanted to 
 take it from them. 
 
 One evening, after supper, my man Jullien, who pos- 
 sessed a first-rate tenor voice, was delighting us with the 
 modulations of it, when suddenly the house began to 
 shake most awfully, and the branches of the trees outside 
 the windows entered very abruptly, and much farther 
 than usual, sweeping off all the goblets and bottles from 
 the table, to our great astonishment, nearly upsetting 
 us ; when our friend P. M. exclaimed, “ Who is shaking 
 the house?** Jullien, who had travelled much, replied, 
 (c Don*t be alarmed — it is only an earthquake.** 
 
 “ Only an earthquake, eh !** said P. M., bolting. 
 
 In rushing to the street he upset my Greek servant, 
 who was entering with a bowl of blazing punch, which 
 gave both house and man the appearance of being on fire. 
 Wc saw no more of P. M. till the next day, as he said 
 he preferred being gulped up by mother earth at one 
 nibble to being smothered beneath the ponderous timbers 
 
WORK AT THE HOSPITALS. 
 
 303 
 
 of my castle. The same clay the Barrack Hospital shook 
 so much, that the patients were actually seen in a state 
 of nudity in the barrack-yard. Several jumped through 
 the windows; one man was killed, and the others all 
 more or less severely injured. 
 
 Each day I devoted to various hospitals, all went well, 
 excepting the Palace Hospital, where there were not less 
 than forty or fifty sick officers, who were much annoyed 
 by the indifference and neglect of their steward. When 
 I called there, they complained to me, and invited me to 
 try if I could not remedy it, as well as remain and dine 
 with them. I accepted their kind invitation, and soon 
 found where the evil lay. I informed Lord W. Paulet, 
 Drs. Cumming and MTElray, and Mr. Robertson, the 
 purvey or-in-chief ; and a new kitchen was built, larger 
 than the former. A civilian cook was placed there, and, 
 to their delight, a new steward. Everything then gave 
 more satisfaction to the illustrious patients, who always 
 received me with the greatest kindness — so much so, that 
 if nature had endowed me with several appetites daily, I 
 could have dined three or four times per diem. 
 
 Without mentioning names, I may summon as witnesses 
 the unfortunate heroes who were at that time gathered 
 around the invalids* table. So happy was I in their 
 company — and I believe they were equally so in mine, — 
 that I felt perfectly ashamed at being quite well ; for 
 even the Doctor was sick, in consequence of the 
 harassing nature of his duties ; he had so much to do — 
 which is ever the case in time of war. With reference 
 to their former steward, whom we had christened “la 
 prima donna Antonio/* as a set-off to his trickery in 
 supplying the invalid officers with dessert in the shape 
 of bad ices, unripe fruit, &c., — things not fit for weak 
 stomachs, — he used, at the request of a few, to bring his 
 guitar, and delight with his voice a la V eluti the ears 
 of those whose palates he had so cruelly displeased. By 
 the aid of a most amiable and kind lady — Mrs. Moore, who 
 some time after died of fever, much regretted by ail — 
 I had already their comforts, and, having previously 
 established a better system of cookery, thought I had 
 done some good for those to whom I was so much 
 
304 
 
 THE MIGHTY DEAD. 
 
 indebted for their kind and polite attention. Though I 
 did not remain more than three weeks at Scutari on this 
 occasion, never, perhaps, during the whole of my martial 
 career, was my heart so severely tried and tortured. 
 
 The following letters, addressed to the metropolitan 
 press, speak volumes: — 
 
 Scutari, 2 7 th June , 1855. 
 
 Mr. Editor, — Three weeks have hardly elapsed since my depar- 
 ture from the Crimean shores, and Death, that implacable deity of 
 the dark abode, has had to engrave upon his mournful tablet a 
 column of names of some of the most distinguished heroes of the 
 present day — viz., Admiral Boxer, Adjutant-General Estcourt, Sir 
 John Campbell, Colonel Yea, Captain Iyons, General della Mar- 
 mora, &c. — and W. H. Stowe, a young civilian and bright orna- 
 ment of the literary world. Every one has heard or will hear 
 of their fame. History will relate facts, but time, as usual, will 
 partly efface from the memory of man the cause of their martyrdom 
 or sudden ill fate ; while I — yes, I can relate, though with a sorrowful 
 heart, the circumstances of their social position, having still on the 
 ear a vibratory sound of their pure and candid voices, for it is only 
 a few days since that I was amongst them, cheerfully shaking hands 
 with them, transacting important business with some of them, 
 partaking of the rural hospitality of others, they of mine, and over- 
 whelmed by the kindness of all. Life then seemed proud of them ; 
 the bloom of nature was radiant upon their brows. Their eyes 
 spoke volumes. Their hearts were as great in the devotion of 
 the national cause, and the glory of their country, as the pure soul 
 which has since departed from them for a better world. Every 
 drop of their blood no longer belonged to them, but to their Queen, 
 their country, their children — their names to posterity, their fame 
 the beacon to future generations of immortality. 
 
 They breathe no more ! Such are the chances of war, of life’s 
 uncertainty. Man proposes, and the Supreme Being disposes. 
 Instead of cheerful anecdotes, which a few weeks ago I could 
 have related of those noble departed, I must here, for the present, 
 cast a tenebrous veil over such earthly frivolity, and implore Pro- 
 vidence to bestow a better fate upon the still great and noble and 
 brave army. 
 
 With the most profound respect, I have the honour to remain, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 A. Soyer. 
 
 P.S. By the next steamer I shall return to the Camp to join the 
 Staff I have just sent there, and terminate, I trust, with success, 
 my culinary mission, and then return to the shores of Albion. 
 
DEATH OE LOUD HAG LAN. 
 
 305 
 
 H.M.S.V. “ Caradoc Constantinople, 5t7i July , 1855. 
 
 Mr. Editor, — Scarcely has the seal of my late painful communi- 
 cation had time to set, when the rocky shores of the Black Sea are 
 moaning and re-echoing the solemn report of the minute-gun, while 
 the foaming current of the Bosphorus is rapidly carrying to the 
 snowy white cliffs of Albion the remains of a really great man, 
 Eield Marshal the Lord Raglan. To him, above all, I cannot but 
 feel most grateful for the success of my undertaking in the Crimea. 
 The last kind word and smile I received while at the seat of war 
 were from that noble martyr to his country’s cause. 
 
 With the highest consideration, I have the honour to be, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 A. Soyer. 
 
 P.S. The great desire of paying the last tribute of respect to 
 the remains of that noble and brave warrior has delayed tor a few 
 days my departure for the Crimea. 
 
 One morning I had a serious discussion with one of 
 my workmen, who declined to cook any more for the 
 hospitals unless I gave him the same wages as my head 
 man, Jullien, in whom I placed all my confidence, having 
 known him for years as an honest, industrious, and well- 
 educated man. He was much respected by all in the 
 hospital: Lord William Paulet made much of him, as 
 also did Dr. Gumming, Mr. Robertson, purveyor-in-chief, 
 and, above all, Miss Nightingale and Mr. Bracebridge, 
 for his attention to business and polite manners. 
 
 I had left a hundred pounds in his care till next 
 morning, having that day to go to Pera about the 
 printing of my hospital receipts. Upon my return, I 
 learnt that he had disappeared, taking the money with 
 him, except twenty pounds, which he gave to one of 
 the boys : the remainder he afterwards returned. No 
 one knew where he was gone. My first thought was to 
 return to the hospital, and superintend the kitchen 
 department in person. Everything must, I knew, be in 
 great confusion, producing upon the people employed 
 under him much the same effect as the similar defection of 
 a general would on the eve of a battle ; and such a battle, 
 too — one that must be fought daily, with the greatest 
 resolution. 
 
 It is indeed a question of life and death, that brave 
 
 x 
 
306 A QUESTION OE LIFE AND DEATH. 
 
 dinner-time. So long as we get it regularly, we 
 think nothing about it; but let one day pass without 
 satisfying those imperious natural wants — what do I 
 say ? — one day ! Even an hour’s delay causes us to 
 make several inquiries — half-an-hour, ten minutes — ay, 
 and even less. Now, suppose I had not, by the merest 
 chance in the world, been apprised of his departure, or had 
 I been ill, and incapable of replacing him and his subordi- 
 nates, who thought to frighten me by requiring the same 
 wages — which, had they behaved themselves well, I might 
 have granted ; — had anything gone wrong, which could 
 not fail in either of those events to be the case, my name 
 and reputation would have been perilled. Thanks, how- 
 ever, to my lucky star, although I have experienced an 
 immense deal of trouble in my various undertakings, I 
 have invariably succeeded in the end. This is one of 
 the hundreds of tribulations and disappointments I met 
 with during my Eastern mission. 
 
 A few days after my arrival at Scutari, I had the 
 pleasure of being introduced to the Pacha, who was also 
 Governor of Asia Minor. At a dinner given to him by 
 the colonel and officers of the 11th Hussars, to which I 
 was invited, we had for dragoman or interpreter her 
 Majesty's messenger, the worthy Mr. Webster. The 
 banquet was given at the humble, dilapidated, and almost 
 decapitated restaurant of Sir Demetri, it being partly 
 unroofed. Demetri, a Greek by birth and name, was a 
 most obliging man. He spoke French, Russian, and 
 English remarkably well, and was much esteemed by all 
 the gentlemen who knew him. I am sorry to say that 
 his followers did not merit the same commendation. 
 British Scutarians, I humbly appeal to your grateful 
 conscience for the former. 
 
 To be brief, the Pacha was received in the same room 
 where, a few days previous, we had vainly attempted to 
 sleep. Our most excellent friend and ally, the son of the 
 Prophet, having quaffed with delight and common sense 
 the limpid liquid which takes its birth in France or any 
 other country, but which, for all that, is called champagne, 
 became very witty and cheerful — in fact, good company. 
 
TURKISH ETIQUETTE. 
 
 307 
 
 — we all felt much interested in the description he gave 
 of his stormy career, which put me very much in mind 
 of that of Ali Baba or the Forty Thieves. His glory 
 seemed to centre in those serious, though childish tales. 
 But, in spite of all eccentricities, the Pacha was amiable 
 and very good company. His health was proposed, with 
 twice the number of his tales, to which he very fervently 
 and cleverly replied, according to our learned interpreter's 
 report. The evening closed very merrily. We parted, 
 and our illustrious guest left, followed by his numerous 
 suite. The farewell having taken place, the guests 
 evaporated like a light cloud in the atmosphere. 
 
 We heard next day that some of the party belonging 
 to the Light Infantry were found herborizing in most 
 profound silence upon the greensward which surrounds 
 the Sultan's mosque before the Barrack Hospital. No 
 doubt, they had changed their mind on their way home, 
 and preferred staying out to trying unsuccessfully to 
 find their home — the weather being so very hot. 
 
 A few days after, all the guests paid their respectful duty 
 to the Pacha. I was one of the last, and having my drago- 
 man with me, was very kindly received by his paehaship, 
 who informed me of his intention to return the compli- 
 ment of the dinner given to him by Colonel Peel and 
 party upon their return, as they had left the next 
 morning for the Crimea. According to Turkish polite- 
 ness, I had no sooner entered than all rose from their seats. 
 There were about seven officers with the Pacha, and I 
 was offered the seat next to him. A richly-ornamented 
 chibouque was presented, and of course accepted ; various 
 sherbets, lemonade, sweetmeats, and snow-water were 
 handed round in vermeil vases, and gracefully poured 
 into glittering cups. 
 
 The conversation was specially directed to me by 
 the Pacha himself. My dragoman carefully translated 
 what was said, and informed me of all that was going 
 on, and what I was to do. It happened to be the 
 time of the Ramazan, and all the minarets were illumi- 
 nated. I was remarking to the Pacha what an extra- 
 ordinary and beautiful effect Constantinople and its 
 
 x 2 
 
308 
 
 CRY OF FIRE. 
 
 mosques illuminated produced upon a European, when 
 suddenly the following cry was heard from the street : 
 “ Ingan var Scutari !” A regular panic seized upon 
 all present ; and they immediately started to their feet. 
 The Pacha took me by the hand; and while he was 
 giving his orders, my dragoman quickly informed me it 
 was the cry of fire, but I was on no account to take 
 my hand from that of the Pacha. I inquired where the 
 fire was ? “ I don’t know,” he replied ; “ somewhere 
 
 in the town. You had better say good-night, as the 
 Pacha must be present.” 
 
 The Pacha was now giving his orders fiercely, which 
 I could find, not only by the perpetual motion of his 
 tongue, but by the nervous and strong feeling of agitation 
 of his hand, as he made me walk up and down the 
 large saloon five or six times without even looking 
 at me. 
 
 The horses were ready, when a fireman, wet through, 
 arrived, and requested the Pacha not to disturb himself, 
 as the fire was already nearly extinguished. All imme- 
 diately re-entered in order, except myself, as I wanted 
 to be off. 
 
 “No,” said the Pacha; “sit down; we must have a 
 second chibouque, and a round of coffee.” 
 
 “ Though I did not taste it, I must say I never in my 
 life so much appreciated the offer of a cup of coffee as I 
 did this, which procured the release of my hand, so long 
 a prisoner in that of the Turkish magistrate. Smoking 
 a second chibouque made me feel rather sick, so I 
 requested my dragoman to thank the Pacha for his kind 
 reception, and say that as I was going to the Crimea in a 
 few days, I would do myself the pleasure of paying him a 
 visit before my departure for England. These words 
 being interpreted to him, the first thing he did was to 
 arrest me again, but luckily not by the same hand. He 
 then spoke very fast to my dragoman, who informed me 
 that the Pacha wished me to go with him as far as 
 lower Scutari. It was one of their great Ramazan 
 nights ; he was obliged to go, and would esteem it a 
 favour if I could accompany him. 
 
TURKISH HONOURS. 
 
 309 
 
 “ With all my heart \" was my reply, as I really wished 
 to witness the religious ceremony of the Ramazan. 
 
 Ten horses were waiting for the Pacha, and my 
 dragoman informed me that his highness was anxious to do 
 me the Turkish honours, and would walk hand-in-hand 
 with me through the town. Bowing respectfully to his 
 highness, I begged Mr. Mason (a Greek and my drago- 
 man) to say that I should be delighted with the 
 honour — that I much appreciated the extreme politeness 
 and kind intention of his highness. 
 
 We then started, the Pacha taking my hand, preceded 
 by six men, bearing five large lanterns, and a glass one 
 with three bougies in it. Behind came his suite, com- 
 posed of about ten gentlemen ; next, the chiboukshis and 
 the horses. Mason, my man, was of course close to me to 
 interpret what the Pacha said, which, however, was of no 
 great importance. Our brilliant cortege slowly wended 
 its way through the dense crowd at lower Scutari. 
 Every one stopped and bowed respectfully to the Pacha. 
 Still holding my hand, he presented me to the assembled 
 crowd. My dragoman here observed, “ By seeing the 
 Pacha on foot, and holding you by the hand, all are 
 aware you must be a high personage, and a respected 
 friend of his excellency.” Hearing this, and seeing the 
 soldiers at the various stations go through their military 
 evolutions as we stopped before them, I really began to 
 fancy I was a great man. Thanks to my common sense, 
 I recollected the humble part I had to play on life’s great 
 stage, and could I at the time have obtained possession 
 of my left hand (which my illustrious friend had retained 
 in his own from his door to the spot where we were then 
 standing, a distance of more than two miles), I should 
 have shaken hands with myself, exclaiming, in the words 
 of Shakespeare, “ Richard’s — no ! Soyer’s himself again !” 
 
 This was indeed a splendid soiree, and could I spare 
 space, the extraordinary scenes I witnessed while going 
 the rounds of magisterial duty with the Pacha would of 
 themselves make a very interesting chapter. Our progress 
 came to an end at a confectioner’s shop, the largest and 
 principal one in Scutari. Here sherbet, coffee and 
 
310 
 
 A HAPPY RELEASE. 
 
 chibouques, iced lemonade, sweets, and all kinds of fruit 
 in season, were handed to us, as we sat upon the divans 
 in open view to the public, a great crowd having been 
 attracted to the spot. 
 
 Numbers entered and saluted the Pacha, and retired. 
 His pachaship having inquired if I would take anything 
 else, Mr. Mason replied in the negative. He then said 
 that he was obliged to remain out all night on his 
 magisterial duty, and that he wished me the repose of 
 the dead till morning. 
 
 In return for this lively desire, I wished him the night 
 of the living, and we parted. Two lantern-chibougies 
 preceded us, by his order ; our horses followed ; and about 
 an hour after, we dismissed our Jack-o’-lanterns with 
 rather a comfortable bacshish. 
 
 It was striking three, and the sentry refused to let 
 Mason enter the Barrack Hospital, where he was quartered. 
 I offered him a lodging at my house, which he accepted. 
 Though very late, we arrived in time to scare two thieves 
 away over the garden wall; and in stumbling over a 
 basket, we perceived their booty consisted of only a few 
 cherries and mulberries, nothing being deranged or stolen 
 from the house. 
 
 Having frequently visited the General Hospital and 
 Kululee, and as the time for my second voyage to the 
 Crimea was approaching, 1 requested LordW. Paulet,who 
 was always very desirous of seeing everything himself, to 
 pay one more official visit to the various hospitals, which 
 he agreed to do, and fixed a day for that purpose. He 
 also informed me that the Duke of Newcastle was ex- 
 pected daily. Miss Nightingale had almost recovered, 
 and had recommenced her assiduous exertions. 
 
 My long-expected field-stoves had arrived. I made 
 a trial with them before the military and medical 
 authorities, which succeeded admirably, even surpassing 
 my expectations in all respects. I was more anxious 
 than ever to return to the Crimea, and make my grand 
 experiment before General Simpson; and, if approved 
 of by the authorities, to have the proper number ordered 
 by Government for the supply of the whole army^ 
 
LEVEE IN A KITCHEN. 
 
 311 
 
 reform tlie old system, and introduce my new one. The 
 stoves would of course require an outlay at first, which 
 would soon be saved in the great economy of fuel and 
 transport, the small number of men required, indepen- 
 dently of the immense improvement in cookery, which 
 was at first the only object I had in view. 
 
 Lord W. PaulePs visit took place, as agreed upon, about 
 three days previous to the arrival of the Duke of Newcastle. 
 He found everything in good order, and I was much 
 pleased. A few days after, I was, owing to the sudden 
 departure of my head man, Jullien, busily engaged 
 at my forges, surrounded by my soldiers, like a modern 
 Vulcan, dressed in my culinary attire, and in the act 
 of manipulating some hundreds of mock rice-puddings 
 (made without eggs or milk — see receipt in Addenda) for 
 my numerous convalescent guests, the brave British, 
 when suddenly my kitchen was filled with military 
 gentlemen of all ranks, amongst whom was no less a 
 personage than the late Minister-at-War, the Duke of 
 Newcastle, Lord W. Paulet, and numerous other high 
 officials — militarjq medical, and civil. His Grace, 
 setting all etiquette aside, advanced towards me, his hat 
 in one hand, and kindly offered me the other, saying, 
 “ How are you, Monsieur Soyer? it is a long time since 
 we had the pleasure of meeting.” 
 
 “ True,” I replied ; “ not since I had the pleasure of 
 seeing your Grace, then Lord Lincoln, at the Reform 
 Club.” 
 
 “You are right, Monsieur Soyer; you have an excellent 
 memory.” 
 
 Though my present occupation was one of the humblest 
 in the category of my art, — viz., making puddings for 
 the soldiers, still the kind condescension of his Grace, and 
 the complimentary remarks he made upon my services, 
 caused me to feel more proud of my humble occupation 
 than I did when I was dressing the great Ibrahim Pacha 
 fete at the Reform Club, in the year 1 846, or preparing 
 my hundred-guinea dish at the York banquet, in the 
 year 1850. 
 
 The Duke of Newcastle was not the first nobleman 
 
 « 
 
312 
 
 GENTLE ATTENTIONS. 
 
 of his high rank who had honoured me with that degree 
 of favour ; but the others had a certain interest in so 
 doing. For instance, while at the Reform Club, a 
 number of epicures used to pay me visits, shake me 
 heartily by the hand, and most cordially inquire about 
 my health. These had, I always considered, a twofold 
 object in view : first, to induce me to give them the 
 best of dinners ; secondly, to ascertain whether I was 
 feverish or in good health. In the former case they would 
 postpone their dinner-party for a few days, or else try 
 to persuade me to follow the plan of the celebrated 
 Marquis de Ooucy, one of the greatest French epicures 
 of the nineteenth century, who never engaged a cook 
 without having a written agreement, giving him power 
 to compel him to take medicine a couple of days before 
 he gave any of his grand dinners, which never exceeded 
 twelve in the Paris season. Extra pay was allowed for 
 this pleasant concession on the part of the chef de cuisine , 
 who no doubt turned the funds to tisane — most probably, 
 tisane de champagne . 
 
 In the present case, his Grace had no such object in 
 view, as I had nothing to offer him but soldiers* hospital 
 rations, diets, & c., composed of beef-tea, mutton-broth, 
 rice-puddings, &c., and my new biscuit-bread, which 
 had been made three months, having the date of baking 
 stamped upon it. I drew the Duke*s attention to this, 
 and then broke a little into some mutton-broth ; and in 
 five minutes it had all the appearance of a piece of fresh 
 bread soaked in broth. In its dry state, it was much 
 more agreeable to eat than the usual biscuit. His Grace 
 was highly pleased with it, and advised me to recommend 
 its adoption to the War-office upon my return to London. 
 
 The kitchen was by this time full of officers and 
 medical men, come to pay their respects to the Duke, 
 forming a numerous escort as he went round the hospital. 
 I gave a short account of my proceedings since my 
 arrival at Scutari, where I had closed all the kitchens 
 but this one, minutely explaining all its details, as w T ell as 
 the plan I had adopted to keep it so clean and so cool ; 
 at which the Duke was much struck. Cooking was done 
 
MY ZOUAVE. 
 
 313 
 
 daily in it for more than one thousand men, the weather 
 being* then intensely hot. After honouring me with most 
 flattering compliments, the Duke and party retired. 
 Lord William kindly informed me that the Duke would 
 visit the other hospitals in a day or two, and that he 
 would give me due notice of his visit. Accordingly, 
 two days afterwards, we showed the Duke over the 
 General, Hyder Pacha, and the Palace Hospitals, with 
 the arrangements of which he expressed himself satisfied. 
 
 A few days after, the Duke of Newcastle left for the 
 Crimea., but, prior to his departure, honoured me with 
 the following letter : — ■ 
 
 Messerie’s Hotel, 23 rd July , 1855. 
 
 Dear M, Soyer, — Accept my best thanks for the copy of your 
 book. 
 
 Your philanthropic labours in this country deserve the thanks of 
 every Englishman, and for one I am grateful for what I have seen 
 of your good work at Scutari. I am, yours very truly, 
 
 Newcastle. 
 
 At length I found two tolerably good cooks, and re- 
 established everything in the culinary department to my 
 satisfaction. My presence being no longer required, I 
 prepared for my departure. I had taught about a 
 dozen soldiers my system of camp-cooking and the use 
 of my new field-stoves. I also engaged a French Zouave, 
 named Bornet, belonging to the 3rd Regiment, whose 
 term of service was just out. Pie was to act as my 
 aide-de-camp, ecuyer, master of the horse, and shield, in 
 case of blows. lie knew the savate, single-stick, sword, 
 foil, and could box well ; was a capital shot and extra- 
 ordinary good horseman; he could sing hundreds of 
 songs, and very well too ; had a good voice, danced ex- 
 cellently, and was altogether of a very happy disposition. 
 
 Among his other then unknown qualities, he was very 
 quarrelsome ; a great marauder a la Zouave; remarkably 
 fond of the fair sex, in his martial way, running all over 
 the camp after the heroic cantinieres ; and, though never 
 drunk, seldom sober, always ready to fight any one whom 
 he thought wished to injure or speak ill of me. In fact, 
 he was, much against my will, my bull-dog, and kept 
 barking from morning till night. He was allowed to 
 
314 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK. 
 
 wear his costume for twelve months longer. In fact, my 
 Zouave was a model of perfection and imperfection. The 
 doctor of his regiment, who admired him for his bravery 
 and cheerful abilities, impressed upon me that he was 
 the man I required. " Very scarce they are/' said he ; 
 “ there are not more than one hundred left out of the 
 whole regiment who began the campaign ; and he is 
 sound, although wounded at Inkermann." 
 
 Upon this strong recommendation, and having to run 
 so much risk about the camp, as well as for the curiosity 
 of the thing, I engaged Bornet, the Zouave : had a new 
 costume made for him ; introduced him to Lord W. Paulet, 
 Miss Nightingale, &c. &c. Everybody found him ex- 
 tremely polite, good-looking, and intelligent. W e bought 
 four horses, and he had the sole command of the cavalry 
 department. All admired his extraordinary good style 
 of horsemanship, particularly Lord W. Paulet. Thus, 
 the illustrious Eranyois Patifal Bornet, late of the 3rd 
 Zouaves, was recognised as belonging to the British army. 
 He and twelve soldiers composed the brigade of Captain 
 Cook — a title I had assumed in the camp. 
 
 We were now ready to enter upon our campaign. I 
 had paid my respects to Lord and Lady de Redcliffe at 
 Therapia, and to General Vivian at Buyukdere: he was 
 then at the Palais de Russie. In this town I and my 
 Zouave created quite a sensation. I had adopted an 
 indescribable costume. It seemed to have attracted John 
 Bull's particular attention on his supposed visit to the 
 camp. Such, at least, was the case according to the 
 Times’ correspondent, who, in a dialogue with John Bull, 
 says, " I beg your pardon, but who is that foreign officer 
 in a white bournous and attended by a brilliant staff of 
 generals — him with the blue and silver stripe down his 
 trousers I mean, and gold braid on his waistcoat, and a 
 red and white cap ? It must be Pelissier ?" 
 
 "That ! why, that's Monsieur Soyer, chef de nos had - 
 teries de cuisine ; and if you go and ask him, you'll find 
 he'll talk to you for several hours about the way your 
 meat is wasted. And so I wish you good morning, sir." 
 
315 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 FESTIVITIES AT SCUTARI AND VISITS TO FRENCH HOSPITALS. 
 
 A grand Oriental summer banquet — The first halt — Start afresh — 
 The Pacha’s harem — Numerous visits — A brilliant cavalcade 
 — Revolt among the horses — The Governor’s reception — A 
 Turkish kitchen — Hand-in-hand — Roasted lambs a la Turque 
 — Gigantic bill of fare — Wine — Vitellias and the Grecian crayfish 
 — Grand entertainment — List of guests — Return home — Polite- 
 ness of the Pacha — Preparations for my return to the Crimea — 
 Yisit to the French hospitals — Dr. Pincolf — Great Hospital of 
 Pera — Cordial reception — Nature of the arrangements. 
 
 Previous to entering upon this second campaign, in 
 which my life was daily likely to he more or less in 
 danger, my gastronomic star was, unawares to me, shining 
 brightly. An unexpected invitation arrived from the 
 Pacha of Scutari to a grand Oriental summer banquet, 
 to which not less than eighty guests were invited. 
 Lord W. Paulet was to be the chairman. The day 
 arrived, we all met at head -quarters, and the principal 
 authorities were present. Lord W. Paulet soon joined 
 us ; we started, forming a very formidable and brilliant 
 cavalcade, everybody being in full costume. The Pacha 
 had sent a mounted escort to accompany us, consisting 
 of six cavaliers. Our first halt was at Ismail Pacha’s, 
 who received us cordially at his pretty kiosque. He 
 spoke excellent French, and invited us to be seated 
 in his large and elegantly-furnished drawing-room, where 
 a chibouque was presented to each guest, with the in- 
 dispensable Turkish thimble-cup of coffee. We had a 
 very interesting conversation with the Pacha about the 
 war, and his opinion upon it ; also a short review of Paris 
 and London, as he had visited both. 
 
 We then walked under very delightful foliage, where 
 fountains were playing, Asiatic and aquatic flowers 
 
316 
 
 VISITS TO PACHAS. 
 
 growing — -plants of rare beauty — orange and lemon 
 trees, &c. We all fancied we had arrived at our desti- 
 nation, when the Pacha’s horse was brought into the 
 yard where ours had been left. The signal was given : 
 we all mounted, and started afresh. A very coquettish 
 square kiosque erected in the garden, and well latticed 
 round, seemed to be very animated within. It was the 
 Pacha’s harem, from whence no doubt the imprisoned 
 odalisques were enjoying the lively scene passing in the 
 yard, by peeping, not exactly a la Peeping Tom, but from 
 behind the railings, or, more properly speaking, lattice. 
 
 Headed by the Pacha and suite, with Lord W. Paulet, 
 Major Sillery, &c., we again started. In ten minutes 
 we reached another kiosque, not by any means so 
 luxurious as the first. We alighted, and were received 
 in the garden by Hiera Bey, to whom the place belonged. 
 In the drawing-room the same ceremony of chibouques 
 and coffee was performed. The Bey and his suite joined 
 our party, and we went to the residence of another 
 pacha, where the same ceremony was about to be renewed, 
 but to which we unanimously objected. His pachaship 
 and suite, altogether about twelve persons, also joined us, 
 thus doubling the number of our cavalcade, which, as we 
 passed along the narrow lane bordered on either side by 
 thick and high edges, had the appearance of an immense 
 serpent stealing through the grass about to swallow its 
 prey: the head being represented by the Oriental corps 
 and costume, admirably suited the effect I have described. 
 Prey was indeed in store for the imaginary serpent. Of 
 the truth of this my reader will be able to judge by the 
 bill of fare, which I carefully preserved, as one of my 
 first Oriental culinary reminiscences. 
 
 The sound of strange instruments informed us that we 
 were near our destination. A military band of about 
 fifty were playing Oriental airs, half wild, half melodious. 
 We were conducted through a garden towards an elegant 
 maison de plaisance , leaving the horses at the entrance ; 
 some of them, not being partial to music, began fighting 
 and kicking. It took nearly an hour to pacify them 
 and make them behave themselves. They were horses 
 
A TURKISH KITCHEN. 
 
 317 
 
 of different nations, and this was probably the reason 
 why they could not agree. 
 
 Several were lost, which gave a little extra occupa- 
 tion to the Asiatic palfreniers. By this time we had 
 all been received by the Governor of Asia Minor and 
 his numerous friends, who were sitting upon divans in 
 the open air, smoking chibouques. We were invited 
 to do the same, which we did, forming a circle of 
 considerable circumference. A regular forest of long 
 chibouques was brought towards us, and one was pre- 
 sented to each guest. We were thus, for the third time, 
 obliged to enjoy this everlasting Oriental splendour ; but 
 in lieu of coffee, raki was introduced, a liquor somewhat 
 similar to perfumed gin, or the French absinthe. It 
 more particularly resembles the latter, as it turns white 
 when mixed with water. It is much drunk in Turkey 
 — usually before dinner. Many prefer it neat, but it is 
 very intoxicating. The usual salutations having been 
 exchanged, we all drank, and the glasses were taken away 
 by slaves. 
 
 After smoking another half-hour, I went to Mr. 
 Dixon, Lord W. Paulet's dragoman, and asked him 
 to request permission of the Pacha for me to see the 
 kitchen. As I knew that two whole sheep and two 
 lambs were to be roasted, I felt anxious to see the process. 
 He had no sooner mentioned my wish than the Pacha 
 rose, and, offering me his hand, conducted me towards 
 the place where the sacrifice was being consummated. 
 We were thus again, as at Scutari, hand-in-hand, if not 
 hand-and-glove. About forty cooks were at work pre- 
 paring the dinner. I felt much interested in their 
 primitive way of roasting large pieces, which can only 
 be equalled by gas. With the intestines they make 
 a kind of black pudding, sausages, and rolls of tripe, 
 with which they surround the neck of the animal : they 
 have also skewers of tripe and liver, heart, &c., tied on 
 each side of the haunch. The Pacha ordered some to 
 be cut off for me to taste, which I did with great 
 gusto, and really much approved of their sound judgment 
 in turning everything to advantage, and making addi- 
 
318 
 
 ROASTING LAMBS WHOLE. 
 
 tional dishes of what we civilized people so cleverly throw 
 away. It was so good, that I begged the Pacha to send 
 a small dish up for Lord W. Paulet and a few others to 
 taste, as it was best while very hot. It had a peculiar 
 aromatic taste which imparts a delicate flavour, and was 
 very palatable. 
 
 The liver, which we of course use, was cut into small 
 portions, and mixed with the intestines. The lambs were 
 dressed in the same way, and were still more delicate : 
 they were so perfectly roasted, that every part of the 
 animals was the colour of a lump of gold. 
 
 ORIENTAL WAY OF ROASTING SHEEP AND LAMBS WHOLE, 
 
 A LA TURQTJE. 
 
 Though, a primitive method, it is far from being a bad one. About 
 a hundredweight of wood is set on fire in an open place, yard, 
 kitchen, or elsewhere, and when burnt the ashes are piled up pyra- 
 midically to about the length of the lamb. Pour stones, about a 
 foot high, are then placed two at each end, and about eighteen 
 inches from the fire ; the lambs are spitted, head and all, upon a 
 long piece of wood, with a rough handle similar to that of a barrel- 
 organ, They are then put down ; each one being turned by one 
 man, who now and then moves the ashes to revive the fire, at the 
 same time basting the lambs with a bunch of feathers dipped in 
 oil. A pan should be placed underneath to receive the fat. This 
 was on this occasion omitted. Each lamb took about three hours 
 doing by that slow process ; but I must repeat, they were done to 
 perfection, and worthy of the attention of the greatest epicure. 
 
 The productions of the other culinary dainties are duly 
 noticed in the following gigantic bill of fare. 
 
 Cavvat alle sis ka-babby 
 Yeade ra-dash yor nesee 
 Terbelee partsha 
 
 Vegetables. 
 
 Dolmah asmae a back 
 Ahgem ka back yah ne see 
 Arabertan ham yersee 
 Ser kresheur kap a massee 
 Patlezan dol massee 
 Oavarta yah prai il ha doline 
 Bag silk massee 
 Guvetts tu lur soo 
 
GIGANTIC BILL OB BABE. 
 
 319 
 
 Eskaille keftee 
 Pelaffee 
 Puff borree 
 Adgec ah med borro 
 Pad am lee charsa 
 
 Confiture. 
 
 Paclava 
 
 Ecmeck card aikae 
 Yur mur tar la lock moh 
 Kavanne 
 Hi varta cleasee 
 Touh cleuksu 
 
 Evgbet pupered by Jorept Zetala 
 Parson fruture 
 Peti parta ougrah 
 Cutalette 
 
 Pura patat assause espariol 
 Crab miones 
 Puopon mohoness 
 Cram alia vanneil 
 Cram ah coffee 
 Yn espeak derubea 
 Eurotee despadree 
 Glass oh citrone 
 Glass alia cream 
 Turk cook mahamet 
 Prissole 
 Sarmagoll 
 
 Cheverma cugickabby 
 Surmah pelich ka-babby 
 Capammah ordack parlazee 
 Coccorrets ka-babby 
 Eassula ilia tuge ka-babby 
 Cavoticla ah met ka-babby 
 Kahoat he la sahe slam ka-babby 
 Kultug dol massy 
 Tuga yah a ne see 
 Sham keflasee 
 Eahat lokoum 
 
 Amidst a clamp of trees, situated on a plot of grass, 
 and though so close at hand, quite out of sight, a large 
 marquee had been erected, under which an elegant ban- 
 queting-table was covered with choice fruits, flowers, 
 pastry, valuable ornaments, and sweets of all kinds. Each 
 guest had his place numbered. I was fortunately near 
 the centre, facing the chairman, and only two from the 
 
320 
 
 AN ANCIENT GOURMET. 
 
 worthy host. The tout ensemble was charming: the 
 various costumes, profusion of light, and the Turkish 
 music, gave such a novel feature to this liberal enter- 
 tainment, that, for the first time, I began to understand 
 the reality of the Oriental luxury so much vaunted by 
 poets. 
 
 Wine, though abominated by the Moslem, flowed in 
 profusion. Excellent Bordeaux, Champagne, Madeira, 
 &c., was freely passed round and quaffed with gusto, to 
 the number, I should say, of several gross of bottles. 
 The children of the Crescent drank as freely as ourselves. 
 The sheep and lambs, dressed up whole, were placed upon 
 the table, and every guest helped himself a la Turque. The 
 meat was pulled from the animal by the Hadji Bachi, with 
 his fingers, in presence of the company, placed in a large 
 dish, and handed round to the gourmets, who also helped 
 themselves with their fingers. The lamb was admirable ; 
 an Apicius would have gone to Turkey to dine, had he 
 known such delicacies were to be obtained there. That 
 worthy left Rome in a vessel, specially chartered by 
 him, to go to Greece, in order to obtain some crayfish 
 rumoured to be larger than any Rome could produce. 
 On arriving, he found they were only the same. He asked 
 the fisherman, who had been some time expecting him, 
 “ Have you never caught larger crayfish than that ?” 
 
 u No, signor, never l” was the reply. 
 
 Rubbing his hands with delight, he ordered the cap- 
 tain to sail back at once, saying, cc I have left some at 
 home larger than these, and they will be spoiled if the 
 wind is not in our favour.”* 
 
 * This is the ancient who, after partaking of the best dinner ever 
 prepared, unfortunately inquired of his private secretary how his 
 cash account stood, and finding that he had only a few millions of 
 dollars remaining, for fear of being in future obliged to dine badly, 
 or at least compelled to curtail his incalculable expenditure, one day 
 dined magnificently by himself j and ordering the most luxurious 
 banquet that Rome could boast of. On that solemn occasion, 
 though there were enough culinary chefs- d' oeuvre to delight an 
 immense number of epicures, he only invited himself! “Sublime 
 idea !” he ejaculated ; “ after dining like two Yitelliuses, or several 
 Luculluses, to die in the midst of plenty !” Thereupon he swallowed 
 poison, and was found dead at the head of his table. 
 
GRAND BANQUET. 
 
 321 
 
 The other dishes were eaten in the European fashion, 
 with knives and forks. The fete was under the manage- 
 ment of a gentleman I had the pleasure of knowing well, 
 Mr. Ralli, a large proprietor at Kadikoi and a Greek 
 merchant, who, to oblige the Pacha, took upon himself 
 all the responsibility of carrying out his excellency’s 
 liberal ideas. 
 
 London, or even Paris, could not have produced more 
 effect or given more eclat to the entertainment, though, 
 of course, in a different style. Healths were proposed, 
 and toasts given. The speeches were short, but to the 
 purpose. The music was very original ; the fire- 
 works were extremely bad, and the illuminations very 
 tenebrous. 
 
 Names of Guests at the Dinner given by the Pacha of 
 Scutari . — Brigadier- General Lord William Paulet ; Hon. 
 Captain Macdonald; Captain Seager; Major Sillery; 
 Major Morris; Dr. Rowdon, civil surgeon, late professor 
 of anatomy at Middlesex Hospital; W. Heaton, Esq., 
 medical staff; Richard Ambler, Esq.; J. S. Robertson, 
 Esq., purveyor - general to the forces ; Rev. George 
 Lawless, senior chaplain ; Rev. Hugh Drennan, chaplain; 
 Rev. W. Eergusson, chaplain ; — Plawkes, Esq., barrister- 
 at-law; Eustatio S. Ralli, Esq., sen., Greek merchant; 
 Etienne Eustatio Ralli, jun., Esq.; — Dixon, Esq., first- 
 class interpreter to Lord William Paulet;* Monsieur 
 Soyer, &c. &c. Indisposition prevented the attendance 
 of his Excellency Omer Pacha. 
 
 After five hours of eating and drinking, we returned 
 thanks to our illustrious host, and rose to retire. He 
 accompanied us as far as his Scutari residence. The 
 evening was very dark, and the horses were mixed 
 together, so that we had some trouble in finding our own. 
 At length we started. I was the last to quit his pacha- 
 ship. As I lived in Cambridge-street, I was a near 
 neighbour of his, and he kindly escorted me to my door, 
 followed by his men bearing lanterns. He would not 
 
 * Ahinet Pacha, who speaks French, has his country residence at 
 the greater Chamlija; and that of Selim Pacha, where we dined, is 
 in the lesser Chamlija. 
 
 Y 
 
322 
 
 VISITS TO TRENCH HOSPITALS. 
 
 leave me till the door was opened, and I had entered the 
 house. We then parted, and I shall never forget the 
 generous reception I received from our worthy Mussul- 
 man ally, the governor of Asia Minor. 
 
 Before my departure, I took Lord W. Paulet, Dr. 
 Cumming, Mr. Robertson, and Miss Nightingale^ orders, 
 which were numerous; said farewell to all, and left 
 everything in a most satisfactory state. I requested 
 Sergeant Thompson to send me a weekly report of 
 the proceedings in the kitchens at the various hos- 
 pitals. Mr. Robertson, the purveyor-in- chief, also pro- 
 mised to keep a sharp look-out himself, and acquaint 
 me with anything important which might occur. I 
 spent a few days with Dr. Humphrey at Kuluiee 
 Hospital, then under the admirable management of 
 Miss E. Hutton and the Sisters of Charity. Mr. and 
 Mrs. Bracebridge, after exerting themselves to the utmost, 
 during the hardest time of all, in the Scutari hospitals, 
 had left for England : important family affairs, I believe, 
 required their presence at home. Miss Nightingale 
 had quite recovered; and she proposed to visit the Crimea 
 again in less than a month, and had requested me to 
 attend to various matters before she arrived. Of these, 
 as they were numerous, I made a list, saying, “ I shall be 
 happy to attend to your commissions even if you tripled 
 the number.” As my twelve field-stoves had been sent 
 to the Crimea, I knew that my time would be principally 
 taken up by field-cookery, and that I should only be able 
 to give a casual look through the various hospitals. 
 
 I was anxious to obtain an insight into the culinary 
 arrangements and system of management in the French 
 hospitals. This I effected by the aid of Dr. Pincoff, who 
 had frequently brought French doctors to visit my 
 kitchens, and taste my new diets — of which they seemed 
 to approve. Some of them would say, “ They are too 
 good and expensive for our hospital;” others, “Your 
 diets are excellent ; but our soldiers would not like them, 
 not being used to that kind of food.” This, probably, 
 might at the commencement have been the case; but 
 a man soon gets accustomed to a good thing. I had tried 
 
GREAT HOSPITAL OF PERA. 
 
 323 
 
 this upon several hundred English soldiers, who never 
 refused it, but, on the contrary, did not like to return 
 to the old system of diets. I had not the slightest 
 doubt they would like the change, but it could not be 
 effected. At all events, this increased my curiosity. Dr. 
 Pincoff, a friend, and myself, determined to go at six 
 o^clock in the morning (the time of their first rounds) 
 to visit the Great Hospital of Pera. 
 
 This early hour of visiting patients I cannot but 
 give my disapproval of, as it is the time they are likely 
 to repose, or at all events feel more languid than any 
 other part of the night; which disturbance reminds 
 me of the anxious servant, who being requested by his 
 master to awake him at an early hour, knocked at his 
 room -door four or five times during the night to apprise 
 him of the number of hours he had left for sleep. 
 Indeed, even more than this, they actually ask the 
 patients, at that early hour, what they would like for 
 dinner ? — the patient, instead of the doctor, prescribing. 
 We arrived at half-past five a.m., through a burning 
 sun, which I consider, at that hour and that time of year, 
 more oppressive in the East than at ten, eleven, or even 
 twelve in the day, when the sea-breeze refreshes the 
 Oriental atmosphere. We were immediately introduced 
 to the medical gentleman on duty, who had just com- 
 menced his rounds. He was attended by two orderlies 
 and a Sister of Charity; one of the former carried a tray, 
 upon which the Sister seemed to have placed articles of 
 food belonging to her department : she was also noting 
 down on a tablet the orders of the doctor as to a few 
 articles of extra diet. We watched the proceedings 
 closely, which lasted nearly an hour : each doctor had 
 two wards to attend, and each ward contained about 
 sixty patients. 
 
 Having made several remarks on the various subjects 
 to the doctor, and thanked him for his attention, I 
 promised to forward him a book of the new dietaries 
 I had so successfully introduced in the hospital at 
 Scutari. Though far from anticipating that any emi- 
 nent member of the French faculty would change his 
 
 y 2 
 
324 
 
 THE FRENCH SYSTEM, 
 
 system, and adopt mine in preference to the French 
 medical regime , still, as I have learnt a great deal from 
 the system pursued in the French hospitals, I should feel 
 very proud if any of my receipts proved acceptable. In 
 fact, I should be delighted to show my gratitude for the 
 generous reception afforded me when I applied for leave 
 to visit the French hospitals upon my passage through 
 France on my way to the Crimea. 
 
 The order with which all was carried on was admi- 
 rable. Without the slightest intention of making myself 
 officious in this matter, I cannot help remarking, that 
 the broths and tisanes given to the patients were rather 
 of a thinnish nature, and given in much larger quantities 
 than by the English doctors to patients affected with 
 similar diseases ; — my opinion on the subject being, that 
 for the man who has lived too well, a close and light diet 
 is most beneficial, his blood being too rich; while the 
 debilitated soldier’s blood requires regenerating : which 
 caused me to submit succulent diets for dysentery and 
 diarrhoea, and cooling ones for fever. 
 
325 
 
 CHAPTER XXYI. 
 
 MY SECOND TRIP TO THE CRIMEA. 
 
 Off in the Ottawa — A calm in the Bosphorus — Deceitful appearances 
 — Captain Bone — Fellow-passengers — A concert in the Black 
 Sea — Intrepidity of P. M. — My Zouave — Harmony in my 
 culinary troop — A tremendous crash — Change of scene — Alarm 
 of P. M. — A bad passage — A fit of the blues — Reflections — - 
 Visits — Fresh faces — Off to the Camp — Colonel Steele — A note 
 from my Zouave — French head-quarters — The lost found — 
 Standing treat — The cantiniere — Return to the Ottawa — ■ 
 Bornet’s excuses — La petite Mere Jouvin — Effects of enthusiasm 
 — Character of the Zouaves — Remove to the Baraguay 
 d’ Hilliers. 
 
 Two days later, I and my people started on board the 
 Ottawa . The day of our departure was magnificently 
 fine; the Bosphorus and Black Sea looked like a sheet 
 of glass. I remarked to the captain, “ One might cross 
 the Black Sea in a caique.” 
 
 “Yes,” he replied, “in its present state; but who 
 knows how soon we may have it dancing mountains 
 high ? I have seen it so before ; and where would you 
 be with your caique then. Monsieur Soyer ?” 
 
 “ Of course, you are right, captain ; but I suppose it 
 is not often thus at this time of the year.” 
 
 “ Even at this time of year, I should be sorry to be 
 one of the caidjees.” 
 
 Captain Bone was a very agreeable man — high-bred — - 
 educated at Oxford — well stored with bons-mots and good 
 anecdotes — always laughing at other people’s jokes as 
 well as his own — very severe on deck and very funny with 
 his friends. He kept a good cook, and therefore a good 
 table, looking sharply after it himself — spending, probably, 
 no more money than other captains, but faring better — 
 very anxious to please his passengers — and at all times 
 very liberal. The proverb says, “ Speak of a man as you 
 
326 
 
 A MUSICAL SOIREE. 
 
 find him;” and in this manner I speak of the worthy 
 captain. 
 
 The ship was very full, especially of recovered invalids 
 from Scutari. Numbers of doctors from Rankioi and 
 Smyrna were on board, on their way to the Crimea, 
 where their services were required. I had engaged a 
 young Sardinian named Antonio, a good-looking youth 
 with a very good voice. As the evening was fine, he and my 
 Zouave began singing, which they did admirably, every 
 one joining in chorus. Thus we spent a delightful soiree 
 on the bosom of the Black Sea. 
 
 P. M., who by this time was becoming quite a brave 
 man, still formed part of my suite. That gentleman’s 
 intrepidity was such, that no one could prevent him from 
 facing at all times the most animated fire — I mean the fire 
 of a short pipe or a long cigar. My Zouave was everywhere 
 about the vessel, which did not seem large enough for him 
 and his four horses. I at last quieted him, by requesting 
 he would think of nothing while on board but eating and 
 drinking moderately, as well as singing a song at night 
 when I required it. He promised faithfully not to throw 
 my Armenian groom overboard, nor to smash the brains 
 of my Italian servant Antonio, but to live like a Christian, 
 in good fellowship with all, and sing w r hen I pleased. 
 One of my cooks, named Jean, an Albanian, while 
 quarrelling, had threatened to cut another, named Victor, 
 into four pieces, and throw them into a pickle-tub. He 
 also gave up this professional job. They all shook hands, 
 and the greatest harmony appeared to reign in my culi- 
 nary troop. 
 
 My secretary, T. G., a gentleman of colour, now accom- 
 panied me for the second time to the Crimea ; and the 
 contrast presented by us, myself being equipped in an 
 Oriental costume, T. Gr. clothed in white, and my Zouave 
 rigged in full feather, was very great; and my suite 
 always created a sensation throughout the camp, more 
 especially when accompanied by the invincible P. M., 
 who was attired in nankeen, a very peculiar style, he 
 being an extensive patronizer of the eminent firm of 
 Messrs. Nicoll. 
 
A SQUALL IN THE EUXINE. 
 
 327 
 
 All on board the Ottawa had for some time retired to 
 their berths. I can seldom sleep at sea ; so I was sitting 
 on deck, smoking my cigar, now and then addressing a 
 word to the man at the wheel and the second mate. W e 
 praised the fineness of the weather : the upper deck was 
 as steady as a drawing-room floor, and the ocean seemed 
 to belong to us alone. 
 
 It was nearly one o’ clock, and Morpheus, who gene- 
 rally deserts me on such occasions, stole upon me softly 
 like a zephyr. I felt inclined to submit, and went below 
 to lie down. "Wrapped in deep repose, I seemed to quit 
 this world of realities, and to wander in the regions of 
 dream-land. This continued till seven in the morning, 
 when a tremendous crash awoke me suddenly, and I 
 perceived that we were dancing mountains high. 
 
 The crash was caused by two glasses and a bottle of 
 soda-water, belonging to my companion P.M. in the upper 
 berth. They had been left upon the wash-hand stand; 
 both glasses were smashed, and the bottle broken, 
 with a tremendous report, making me fear that in the 
 night we had, by mistake, approached too near to Sebas- 
 topol, and were being fired into by the batteries. Turn- 
 ing round, I perceived the supposed enemy on the 
 cabin floor in a fearful state of dilapidation — the bottom 
 of the soda-water bottle rolling to and fro, according to 
 the will of the waves, which, it appeared, had risen to 
 that pitch in an incredibly short space of time — a thing 
 common enough in the Euxine, or Black Sea. 
 
 “ Good heavens !” exclaimed P. M., “ where are we?” 
 
 “ Don’t be alarmed,” said I. “We are under fire; 
 every man to his gun ; so let us go up on deck and fight 
 like Britons.” 
 
 “ The devil we are ! Oh dear, I can’t fight, I am so 
 sick.” 
 
 “ Then you must swim or sink.” 
 
 In less than a minute he rushed from the cabin, and 
 concealed himself under the large dinner-table. 
 
 As I was dressed, I went upon deck. 
 
 “ At half-past five,” said the mate on duty, “ it began 
 to rain, and the wind suddenly changed. At seven 
 
328 
 
 BALAKLAVA ONCE MOltE. 
 
 o’ clock, a gust of wind actually bent the sails across the 
 yards, taking ns dead aback ; and in less than an hour, 
 the sea rose to the state you see it in now.” 
 
 The captain, who was giving his orders from the cross- 
 bridge, called out to me, laughing, “Well, Monsieur 
 Soyer, where is your caique now? Are you ready for 
 your breakfast ?” 
 
 Of course I was, though I could not boast of having 
 much appetite. The remaining part of the passage w r as 
 very rough. The Ottawa rolled very much, having, if I 
 recollect right, shot and shell for ballast. The contrast 
 afforded by the sudden change from the calm of the pre- 
 vious day, no doubt caused us to feel its effects the more. 
 At all events, we arrived in due time quite safe. An 
 unexpected bad passage at all times makes everybody 
 feel uneasy and low-spirited. The nearer I approached 
 Balaklava, the more uneasy I felt. A kind of melan- 
 choly had come over me, and my feelings were so inde- 
 scribable, that while we were entering the harbour of 
 Balaklava, I was surprised to see the sun shining over 
 that picturesque spot, and traffic going on as usual. 
 Instead of a lugubrious veil hanging over the whole fleet, 
 all was going on pretty much in the same manner as 
 when I had left. Even nature seemed to have smiled 
 upon the hills, valleys, and mountains, which were gayer 
 than before. 
 
 Such a scene caused me to breathe more freely. I 
 felt that the noble departed, who but a few days before 
 were in enjoyment of health, honour, power, and rank, 
 had been removed by their gracious Creator, and there- 
 fore, though Lord Raglan, Admiral Boxer, Sir J. Camp- 
 bell, General Estcourt, and numbers of other great men, 
 had been called away during my short absence, they 
 were only summoned from this world — so, at least, we 
 are bound to believe — to fulfil their mission in another 
 and a better sphere. 
 
 On the day of our arrival, I paid my respects to several 
 great personages, who, on account of the sad events 
 before mentioned, were mostly new-comers, although 
 they knew me either personally or by name. It was 
 
NEW FACES. 
 
 329 
 
 like beginning my mission afresh, making it not only 
 very painful as far as feelings went, but also difficult. It 
 was something like being compelled to build an edifice 
 which had fallen to the ground when near its com- 
 pletion. 
 
 Such were my feelings upon my arrival on my second 
 visit to the Crimea. As I could only remain a couple of 
 days on board the Ottawa , as she was to return imme- 
 diately to Constantinople, I employed my time in 
 settling my plan of campaign. 
 
 First of all, I paid my respects to Admiral Freemantle, 
 on board the Leander , and I was very kindly received. 
 Next I went to Sir George Maclean, the new Com- 
 missary-General ; and a more amiable gentleman I did 
 not meet during my mission in the Crimea. He informed 
 me that the dry vegetables from Messrs. Chollet had 
 arrived, and that some had already been issued to the 
 troops, and were highly approved of. I requested an 
 order to go and inspect them in the stores, with which 
 I was immediately favoured. 
 
 Having executed all Miss Nightingale's commissions, 
 as well as others, the next morning I started early for 
 head-quarters, and arrived there about nine. Much 
 important business was going on at the time. A number 
 of horses, foaming with perspiration, were in the yard, 
 the despatch-riders having no doubt quite forgotten that 
 the success which attended their mission was owing to 
 their poor quadrupeds. I was at once received by Colonel 
 Steele, who was much pleased to see me. After express- 
 ing our regret at the lamentable events which had 
 occurred since our last meeting, we entered upon 
 business. 
 
 “Well, Monsieur Soyer," said the colonel, “if you 
 like to wait, you can see General Simpson ; but, as to- 
 morrow is Sunday, he will be able to grant you a longer 
 interview. To-day he could not spare ten minutes." 
 
 “ Much obliged, colonel," I replied ; “ and I will not 
 fail to be here to-morrow at ten, as you advise." 
 
 “Very well, Monsieur Soyer; I shall be here, and 
 happy to see you." 
 
330 
 
 MY ZOUAVE GETS EXCITED. 
 
 My Zouave, whom I had brought with me, had dis- 
 appeared, leaving word with the man at the entrance- 
 hall that he would return in ten minutes, but that he 
 could not resist paying a visit to his old comrades, who 
 were encamped that day at the French head- quarters. 
 He was en petit costume , as I did not wish him to attract 
 too much attention. I expected, when I learnt he had 
 gone, that the ten minutes would be doubled and tripled, 
 and probably extend to hours : I therefore made up my 
 mind to go about my business in the different hospitals 
 and regiments. First of all, I visited Dr. Hall, the 
 authorities, and my friends round head-quarters. 
 
 In the afternoon I returned, but no Zouave had been 
 seen. A note was handed to me by the canteen-man, 
 worded thus : — 
 
 My dear Governor, — Your humble servant, Bomet the 
 Zouave, is half drunk, and will feel much obliged if you will allow 
 him to get quite so. He has met with a few old comrades, who very 
 likely will not last much longer than the others who have died for 
 their country. 
 
 Upon receipt of this, having nothing better to do, I 
 started for the French head-quarters. I soon found the 
 regiment. This was not enough — I wanted my man. 
 My next inquiry was for the canteen, quite sure that the 
 cantiniere, whether blonde or brunette, no matter which, 
 would have heard of him. It turned out as I had anti- 
 cipated, and, not giving me time to ask twice, she said, 
 “ Yes, Monsieur, he is here — the dear fellow \" And so 
 he was, fast asleep. He no sooner awoke and saw me, 
 than he came and apologized, seemingly almost sober. 
 I say seemingly, for all at once he began to sing and 
 dance like a madman, harmoniously introducing me to 
 his friends, whom I had the pleasure of shaking cordially 
 by the hand. 
 
 Some of these recollected my former visit, so I begged 
 of them to sit down. At the same time I offered 
 them something to drink. The liquid material — viz., 
 two quarts of wine and one of rum — with tin cups, 
 was brought, and the French and Jamaica nectar was 
 
AN APOLOGY. 
 
 331 
 
 poured out, with a certain elegance and graceful smile, 
 by the Crimean Bacchante, to these reckless children of 
 Mars. In a short time many of them had fallen in 
 the dreadful struggle. They were enfans per das , and 
 were all singing different tunes and dancing different 
 steps. 
 
 The cantiniere was elegantly dressed in her Zouave 
 uniform, ready for starting to the trenches : she wore a 
 red gown, and trousers of the same material, a jacket 
 like that worn by the men, and a red fez cap with a 
 long tassel. She carried a stoup full of spirits, a large 
 basket of provisions, and followed her companions like a 
 trooper. 
 
 The Zouaves gave me a pressing invitation to go and 
 see them perform, which I promised to do that day week. 
 They were perfectly satisfied, though I was not at all, 
 with my Zouave, Bornet. As he was not fit to follow 
 me, I gave him up, and, after seeing his horse right and 
 him wrong, I left him, and started alone for Balaklava, 
 returning in solemn solitude to my nautical home — the 
 Ottawa. 
 
 At six the next morning he was on board, busily 
 engaged preparing for our departure, so soon as a spot 
 could be selected in the camp for us to pitch our tents. 
 The horses were landed, and my military pupils sent to 
 different quarters, and set to work cooking. I retained 
 three with me for the opening of my field-kitchens. As 
 I approached my deserter, the Zouave, in order to repri- 
 mand him for his conduct the preceding day, he remarked, 
 by way of apology, “ I know, mon cher governor, what 
 you are going to say — that is, if I play you any more 
 such tricks, you will not keep me, as we agreed when 
 you engaged me.” 
 
 “ Certainly not,” said I. 
 
 "We will begin fresh to-day; but yesterday, you 
 see, governor, the temptation was too strong for me. 
 When I saw my old comrades Riflard and Franc Chat- 
 beau, Panaudet, et la cantiniere — Beni Zoug Zoug — 
 des vieux amis de la tente, with whom I had braved all 
 
332 
 
 EABBIT-SHOOTING. 
 
 dangers, and so few of ns left — not more than fourteen 
 or fifteen of our company — why, voyez-vous, it carried 
 me away, and I could not help standing the picton 
 (which means something to drink), like a Frenchman and 
 a man. And what a fine lass la petite Mere Jouvin is ! 
 Don’t she look well in her Zouave dress ?” 
 
 “ Certainly, but did she go to the trenches ?” 
 
 “Of course she did. She was on duty last night. 
 Her husband goes one night, and she the other.” 
 
 “ Did you see her this morning ?” 
 
 “ I did. The darling had just returned for more liquor. 
 She told me they had a kind of sortie, and for twenty 
 minutes were peppering one another like fun, and no 
 mistake. Rabbit-shooting, governor — rabbit-shooting ! 
 We lost about seventeen men, besides the wounded. But 
 that’s nothing. Last year I saw three times as many 
 knocked over in a sort of skirmish which only lasted ten 
 minutes. We were half frozen and partly starved; and 
 hundreds were found dead or nearly frozen, lying under 
 shelter of those who had been shot, endeavouring to 
 warm themselves before the bodies got cool.” 
 
 “Pray, Bornet, don’t recal those things to my mind: 
 they are too painful; but, after all, are only the chances 
 of war, and must be endured/’ 
 
 “Well, governor,” said he, while cording a large box, 
 “ you have gained the esteem of the 3rd Zouaves; and 
 should you require the services of the whole regiment, 
 could it be spared, you would have them, including la 
 petite Mere Jouvin.” 
 
 In uttering the last word he gave an extra pull at the 
 rope, which caused it to break, and bang went my Zouave 
 flat upon his back. A general laugh was heard upon 
 deck. He picked himself up quickly, and, rubbing his 
 back, said, “ By the explosion of a thousand shells, here 
 is a stunning piece of straw.” 
 
 A gentleman present asked him if he had hurt himself. 
 “ Very well,” he replied, being all the English he knew, 
 except “yes” and “no.” 
 
 Seeing everybody laugh, he went on working at the 
 box, and singing his favourite refrain — 
 
A BODY OF INVINCIBLES. 
 
 333 
 
 J’aime le vin, l’amour et la gaite, 
 
 Les plaisirs, la gloire, 
 
 Et je suis, sans vanite, 
 
 L’enfant de la gaite. 
 
 I perceived some spots of blood on his shirt-sleeve, and 
 pointed them out to him. “ Oh,” said he, “ that’s no 
 novelty. I’ve seen a sample of my blood before this, 
 many times.” 
 
 On pulling up his sleeve, we found a deep scratch in 
 his arm, from which the blood flowed pretty freely. 
 
 “ You had better have it attended to,” said I. 
 
 “ Bah ! bah ! nonsense ! We Zouaves never trouble 
 any one, particularly the doctor, about such trifles. Be 
 kind enough to tie my pocket-handkerchief round it.” 
 
 This done, he kept at his work. Thus I discovered the 
 determined character of these wild soldiers. They made 
 up their minds to care for nothing — were ready either to 
 fight or sing — be out all night without sleep, or comfort- 
 able under their tents — were content with much to eat and 
 drink, or little — but so long as they had sufficient to sustain 
 life, be gay, or at least appear so — never making a direct 
 complaint, whatever might happen to them. In fact, 
 though French soldiers like the rest of the army, they 
 had created themselves a body of invincibles, and a com- 
 pany of very odd fellows, who would at all times much 
 prefer robbing a man to wronging him ; this being one 
 of their mottoes : — “ Nous aimons mieux voler que faire 
 du tort.” 
 
 All on board the Ottawa was bustle and confusion. 
 Although not half unloaded, they were receiving the sick, 
 expecting to sail the same evening. We were busy remov- 
 ing to the Paraguay cVIIilliers . She was a transport, and 
 full of hospital provisions. Captain Heath advised me 
 to select her, as she was the vessel likely to remain the 
 longest in harbour, and I should require a pied a terre in 
 Balaklava. Under the direction of my Zouave, all our 
 luggage was soon put on board ; and about ten o’clock 
 he was in full dress, it being Sunday. The horses were 
 ready, and we started for head-quarters. 
 
334 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 CAMP LIFE AT HEAD- QUARTERS. 
 
 Off to head-quarters — A sensation — Mrs. Seacole’s salutation — ► 
 General Simpson — An interview — Plans — Invitation to dinner 
 — Bread- biscuits — Prescribe for the General — General Eyre — - 
 Sir John Jones — The Staff — Conversation — A remarkable case — 
 The Guards’ camp — Return from a funeral — Colonel Seymour — 
 Dinner at General Simpson’s — A Crimean banquet — Arrival of 
 despatches — A great battle expected — Excitement of my Zouave 
 — A false alarm — My stoves in use — Success of the plan — 
 Economical cooking stove for all classes — Interview with Sir 
 Colin Campbell — Battle of the Tchernaya — Ride with Lord 
 Rokeby — Colonel Seymour recognised at last — Wounded from 
 the Tchernaya — Timely succour — Case of two French soldiers — 
 Visit to the battle-field — Bornet’s indignation — Delay — Opening 
 day fixed — Final preparations. 
 
 As Bornet was a dashing cavalier and a very good 
 horseman, he created quited a sensation in Kadikoi, and 
 upon our arrival before the Sardinian head- quarters, 
 General della Marmora and Staff came upon the balcony 
 to look at him. He saluted the general, who appeared 
 much surprised to see a Zouave on horseback in my suite, 
 and not wearing the exact costume of that corps, as I 
 had made some stylish improvement in it, in order to 
 distinguish him from the common soldiers. 
 
 As I had to see General Simpson about eleven o’clock, 
 off we went at full gallop, being rather short of time. 
 Mrs. Seacole, who was at her door with her daughter 
 Sarah, had only time to call out, cc Go it, my sons \” as we 
 rattled past the house. We arrived in due time, and I saw 
 Colonel Steele, who told me that General Simpson would 
 be happy to receive me directly, and at once conducted 
 me to his audience-chamber. The new Commander-in- 
 chief rose politely as I entered, shook me by the hand, 
 and invited me to be seated. I had previously left a 
 
INTERVIEW WITH GENERAL SIMPSON. 
 
 335 
 
 letter for him from Lord William Paulet respecting my 
 mission, and I showed two I had received from the 
 War-office, in which the Minister-at-War expressed in 
 flattering terms his approbation of them. 
 
 After the usual compliments of a first interview. 
 General Simpson told me that he had read the letter 
 with great interest, and would give me all the assistance 
 in his power to enable me to carry out my project, which 
 was, first, to make a trial before the Commander-in-chief, 
 the generals and officers of the army. Dr. Hall, &c. &c. 
 If on that occasion my new system was approved of, it 
 was my intention to introduce the same for the benefit 
 of the army at large. To this General Simpson gave his 
 assent, saying, “ You have only, Monsieur Soyer, to tell 
 me what you require.” 
 
 “ First of all, general, that you should select a spot 
 where the trial can take place, and name a regiment with 
 which I can begin.” 
 
 “ You will require a building for your kitchen.” 
 
 “Not at all, general — no masons, carpenters, nor 
 engineers. My stoves are adapted for the open air, to 
 cook in all weathers, and to follow the army.” 
 
 “ I am aware of that, as I saw the model when you 
 were here last.” 
 
 “Exactly. All I shall require will be three bell-tents 
 for myself and assistants, as I must reside in the camp.” 
 “Very well; I will give orders to that effect.” 
 
 “ I would also recommend you to select a regiment 
 near head-quarters for your own convenience in visiting 
 and watching the progress of the kitchens.” 
 
 “ I think the Guards in the First Division will suit 
 our purpose best. Do you know where they are ?” 
 
 “ I do ; but perhaps you will be kind enough to send 
 some official with me to select the spot.” 
 
 “We will ride over this afternoon. You had better 
 dine with us this evening. You know the greater part of 
 the gentlemen of my Staff ; and those you do not, know 
 you.” 
 
 “Many thanks, general, for your kind invitation, 
 which I accept with the greatest pleasure.” 
 
336 
 
 BREAD-BISCUITS. 
 
 “ Have yon anything in that parcel to show me ?" 
 
 “ Yes ; one of my new bread-biscuits, which I wish 
 you to taste.” 
 
 On opening the parcel, he took it out/ saying, “Lord 
 bless you ! this will be too hard for my teeth .” 
 
 “Not so hard as you think. It is much softer than 
 the ordinary biscuit which it is intended to replace. At 
 any rate, it may be issued in turn, and will afford an 
 excellent change for the troops. I have kept some above 
 three months, and they are quite good. The Duke of 
 Newcastle tasted one of them, and was much pleased 
 with it.” 
 
 Having broken a piece off and tasted it, the general 
 partook of some and found it very good, though not nearly 
 so hard as he anticipated. He declared that it was much 
 more palatable than the common biscuit, and that he 
 quite enjoyed it. General Simpson was at that time 
 very unwell, and he seldom ate anything but arrowroot 
 and biscuit soaked in boiling water. I tasted some 
 of his fare, and found it tolerably good, but not 
 nutritive enough for a man who worked hard. He 
 informed me that he was often occupied eight or ten 
 hours a day writing. As his complaint was diarrhoea, I 
 proposed boiling some plain rice after the receipt given 
 in Addenda, which was at all times so much approved of 
 by the doctors. This I did the next day. The general 
 took a great deal of bodily exercise in the camp and in 
 the trenches. 
 
 On quitting General Simpson, I paid my respects to 
 General Eyre, with whom I had some business to transact. 
 He was then at the head of the Ordnance Office, and 
 General Simpson had referred me to him for all I might 
 require from that department. The general gave me a 
 very kind reception, and granted all that I required. 
 Having two hours to spare, I made up my mind to go to 
 the French camp or head-quarters. I had not had the 
 pleasure of seeing General Pelissier since he received the 
 appointment of Commander-in-chief. As I was going 
 out, I met General Jones, the engineer. 
 
 “Do you recollect, Monsieur Soyer, where we met 
 last?" 
 
SIR JOHN JONES. 
 
 337 
 
 Aware that the General — now Sir John Jones — was 
 the siege and trench engineer, I thought that he referred 
 to my wild expedition when I lost my way in the blood- 
 stained labyrinth. I was, however, quite mistaken. He 
 informed me that it was in Ireland, when I opened my 
 kitchens in the year 1847. I then recollected the circum- 
 stance, as I had myself shown him round the kitchens, 
 and explained the method and the process of cooking by 
 steam for ten thousand people, if required, with only one 
 furnace, and by means of steam-pipes connected with a 
 double boiler — a plan, I believe, still in use in many 
 large governmental and civil institutions.* 
 
 I gave Sir John to understand what great pleasure it 
 afforded me to hear of such reminiscences, and inquired 
 if he intended to go for a ride as far as the First 
 Division. 
 
 “No, Monsieur Soyer,” said he, “I don't think I can. 
 In fact, I have to be in the trenches, where I shall be 
 happy to see you when you have fixed upon the spot for 
 your field-kitchens.” 
 
 “ I thank you, general, for your kind invitation, but 
 would rather see you out of them, and a good distance 
 off, particularly as a person is more exposed to the fire 
 of the enemy on entering or leaving than when 
 inside.” 
 
 Finding that I had hardly time to go as far as the 
 French head-quarters, I went to the kitchen and in- 
 quired what there was for dinner. The chef was named 
 Nicolo, and had lived with Sir George Brown. 
 
 The horses were at the door in readiness for the 
 general. All the Staff were in attendance before 
 the house, some sitting on the steps, others standing. 
 Among them were Generals Barnard and Airey, Colonels 
 Steele and Blane, Captains Colville, Lindsay, &c., with 
 
 # That kitchen was pnt up at the South Union Workhouse, where 
 no doubt it still remains. In some institutions steam tubes have 
 since been introduced into the boiler amongst the food. This, I beg 
 to say, forms no part of my plan, as has been publicly reported. I 
 disapprove of the system altogether, for many reasons, which it 
 would be out of place to discuss in this work. 
 
 z 
 
338 
 
 A CURIOUS INCIDENT. 
 
 whom I conversed upon various matters, especially upon 
 my long stay at the Reform Club. General Barnard, 
 as usual, was very talkative and witty. 
 
 When Colonel Steele saw General Simpson coming, 
 he called to me to mount, and a few minutes after 
 we set off to the First Division. On our way, we con- 
 versed upon various topics, particularly respecting a poor 
 fellow named Harvey, who had been shot in his tent 
 during the night. A ball from one of the enemy's long- 
 rangers had fractured both his legs, and he died a few 
 hours after receiving the wound. The most remarkable 
 part of the occurrence, as I told the General, was this : 
 — The person who usually occupied the spot got drunk 
 the night before, and was put in the guard-house : this 
 saved his life. The ball made a hole about two feet 
 deep at the very spot where he generally slept, every inch 
 of room being turned to account in the tents. He must 
 have been smashed to atoms, had he been there. The 
 man who was killed had his legs close to this spot, and 
 the shot falling in a slanting direction, cut them both off. 
 The general said he had heard that a man had been 
 killed during the night, but that he was not aware of the 
 circumstances. 
 
 “ On my way to the General Hospital," I continued, 
 “ in the morning, I saw the tent and the place where 
 the cannon-ball fell. I have the piece of canvas the 
 shot passed through; it was given me by Dr. Taylor 
 of the Third Division, who took me to see it. It bears 
 the name of the man killed and the date of the accident. 
 The doctor, after cutting out the piece which was hang- 
 ing to the tent, wrote the particulars upon it himself. I 
 will show it to you this evening, general. My man 
 has the relic with him." 
 
 Some officers came and conversed with the general for 
 a short time while we were before the Guards' camp. 
 On the esplanade the men were parading for the trenches ; 
 there might have been four companies. The general 
 spoke to the commanding officers, and they all started. 
 A detachment of the Scots Fusiliers, headed by a band 
 of music playing a lively tune, were returning from 
 
RETURN PROM A EUNERAL. 
 
 339 
 
 the funeral of one of their officers. This scene made a 
 singular impression upon me. I was, in the first place, 
 struck at seeing those fine fellows going, some probably 
 to their doom — for who could tell how many would get 
 back safely ? — and in the second place, at the sight of the 
 return of the funeral, playing such a joyous strain. This 
 I learned, upon inquiry, was always the case after 
 interring the corpse and leaving the cemetery. One 
 company had not started for the trenches. It was com- 
 manded by Colonel Seymour of the Guards, now aide-de- 
 camp to H.R.H. Prince Albert. General Simpson, who 
 had been some time talking with that officer, said to me, 
 “ Monsieur Soyer, here is Colonel Seymour, who will 
 render you any assistance you may require.” 
 
 “ Much obliged, general.” 
 
 “ Oh,” said the colonel, “ Monsieur Soyer and myself 
 are old acquaintances. I often paid you a visit at the 
 Reform Club.” 
 
 “ Indeed, colonel !” 
 
 “ Certainly — very often.” 
 
 Though the face was well known to me, I could not 
 for the life of me recognise the colonel, he had such a 
 large beard and mustachios. General Simpson then left 
 us together, and I observed that I should give him as 
 little trouble as possible, but for a short time should require 
 all his kind assistance for the opening of my kitchen. 
 
 “You may depend upon me, Monsieur Soyer,” he 
 said, — “ that is, if I return safe from the trenches.” 
 
 “ I sincerely hope you may.” 
 
 “ No one can tell. Thank God, I have been very for- 
 tunate so far.” 
 
 “ I hope that you will continue to be so.” 
 
 We made an appointment. He started on horseback 
 at the head of his men. I was introduced to numerous 
 other officers by the general, and afterwards by the 
 colonel, with many of whom I had the honour of being 
 previously acquainted. Having selected a spot on the 
 esplanade facing the centre avenue which divided the 
 Coldstreams from the Scots Fusiliers, I returned alone 
 to head-quarters, it being then nearly dinner-time. My 
 
 z 2 
 
340 
 
 DINNER AT HEAD- QUARTERS. 
 
 Zouave had got back from Balaklava, whither I had sent 
 him to fetch my evening dress, in which I immediately 
 attired myself, as dinner was upon the table. We sat 
 down about twelve in number. As I was nearly opposite 
 General Simpson, I had the opportunity of conversing 
 with him upon various subjects. For a Crimean dinner, 
 it was a very good one indeed. Colonel Steele and Cap- 
 tain Colville, who were sitting next me, attributed it 
 to my presence, and said that the cook — Nicolo — had 
 certainly distinguished himself upon the occasion. 
 
 “ I am much pleased/'’ I replied, “ to be the cause of 
 so great an improvement in the culinary department, and 
 hope for the future the Commander-in-chief will avail 
 himself of my influence by often inviting me to dine* 
 at head-quarters.” 
 
 After dinner, the evening passed very merrily, and the 
 general cordially joined in the fun, though he seemed 
 full of business, leaving the table several times to write 
 despatches in his cabinet. We were smoking on the 
 balcony at the back of the house, facing the vineyard, 
 when the general returned from one of his short excur- 
 sions, and I showed him the piece of canvas which I 
 had obtained from my Zouave. 
 
 “ Had the ball,” I said, “fallen upon a stone, or any- 
 thing offering resistance, it might have killed twenty 
 men, as it fell in the thickest part of the Third Division. 
 The deep hole it made in the tent was as polished and 
 hard as the interior of a marble mortar. This was no 
 doubt caused by the rapid revolutions of the ball in bury- 
 ing itself before its force was spent. I noticed this 
 whilst looking at the cavity ; and the men who were 
 lying in the tent were of my opinion, and assured me 
 that it kept making a tremendous noise for some time 
 after its fall.” 
 
 While we were engaged in conversation I believe that 
 another despatch arrived, for the general and some of 
 his Staff were called out. Observe, reader, that for a full 
 hour the cannon and mortars had not ceased roaring 
 throughout the camps, continually vomiting forth death 
 and destruction on every side ; yet every one present, I 
 
A FALSE ALAEM. 
 
 341 
 
 us well as the rest, appeared quite indifferent to that 
 mournful noise. We were, however, soon awakened by 
 the fierce rattling of the fusillade. All listened atten- 
 tively, but without moving from their seats. A message 
 from the general and fresh orders caused us to break 
 up the party. I was leaving the house, intending to 
 return to Balaklava, when I met Major Lindsey, one of 
 the aides-de-camp of General Simpson, entering with, I 
 believe, another despatch. He asked me where I was 
 going to sleep : I answered, at Balaklava. 
 
 “ Oh, nonsense ! don’t go away. We are all ordered for 
 half-past three in the morning. A great battle is ex- 
 pected, as the Russians are going to attack us upon a 
 fresh point. I will give you a plank and a blanket in 
 my room to lie upon for an hour or so.” 
 
 I accepted his kind offer, and he left me. When I 
 informed my Zouave of the anticipated battle, 
 
 “ By Jove !” said he, “ I hope they will give me a gun 
 and sword to go and fight. I shall make a busy day of 
 it. I smell powder. Pray, governor, do beg of the 
 general to let me go with them.” 
 
 The fellow had taken a drop too much, and he went 
 on like a madman — no one could check him. We retired 
 to our hospitable abode, and I went to sleep ; but the mad 
 Zouave was anywhere and everywhere. At three o’clock 
 I awoke. The general and his Staff started — the can- 
 nonade was going on fiercely, but no fusillade was heard. 
 At seven the general and all returned; and it was, as 
 he said, a false alarm. 
 
 My Zouave returned at eight, loaded with provisions, 
 which he told me he had borrowed of some fellows he 
 had found fast asleep. We arrived on board the Bara - 
 guay cVHilliers about ten, faint with fatigue and hunger, 
 Laving had no breakfast. 
 
 Such was camp-life at head-quarters. It was like 
 swimming between life and death. No one seemed to 
 apprehend the least danger, while a successful sortie on 
 the part of the enemy would have placed every one’s life 
 in the greatest peril. So much for the unprofitable busi- 
 ness of war ! 
 
342 
 
 A CULINARY SURPRISE. 
 
 Having fixed upon a spot for my kitchen, I imme- 
 diately sent the stoves to the camp. As they happened 
 to be close to the railway, they arrived early the next 
 morning. In the course of the day I reached my field of 
 battle, and to my great surprise found — what? Why, all 
 my battery firing for the support of the Highland Bri- 
 gade. The stoves had arrived early enough for the men 
 to use them in cooking their dinners. Though I had 
 given special orders that no one should meddle with 
 them until I arrived, it gave me great pleasure to find 
 that the men were using them to the best advantage 
 and without instruction. In the first place, they could 
 not possibly burn more than twenty pounds of wood in 
 cooking for a hundred men, instead of several hundred- 
 weight, which was the daily consumption. Although I 
 had not given them my receipts, they found they could 
 cook their rations with more ease, and hoped they 
 should soon have them for every-day use, instead of the 
 small tin camp-kettles, and their open-air system of 
 cooking. The process was very unsatisfactory, being 
 dependent upon good, bad, or indifferent weather, and 
 the fuel was often wet and difficult to ignite. Colonel 
 Seymour, whom I invited to see the men using the 
 stoves without tuition from me or anybody else, can 
 testify to the accuracy of this fact, having witnessed the 
 process and interrogated them upon the subject. 
 
 My reason, reader, for relating this circumstance, is 
 because it afforded me an assurance that I could render 
 service to the army, and that my exertions were of some 
 use. I saw even further than that ; for I inferred that if 
 a soldier, who is not a cooking animal, being paid for 
 other purposes — and that talent a peculiar gift conferred 
 in a greater or less degree upon humanity — could without 
 trouble or instruction cook well in the open air and in 
 all weathers, the stoves would certainlv be useful in all 
 establishments, from a cottage to a college. I do not say 
 anything of their use in hospitals, because they had been 
 tried in those establishments with full success, as far as 
 military cooking was concerned. The idea of connecting 
 baking, roasting, boiling, and steaming crossed my mind ; 
 
COOKING STOVE TOE THE MILLION. 
 
 343 
 
 and this, I felt with confidence, would render them 
 beneficial and useful to the public at large. This idea I 
 at once communicated to the makers, and they have 
 already acted upon my suggestion. I resolved upon my 
 return to England to bring them out at as cheap a rate 
 as possible for the use of small or large families. A really 
 useful and economical cooking stove is as much wanted 
 in England as sunshine on a November day — a stove 
 by which all the usual domestic cooking can be carried 
 on, without having recourse to bricks and mortar, and 
 chimney-sweeps. Smoky chimneys, as well as other minor 
 nuisances too numerous to mention, would be thus 
 avoided. Twelve pounds of coal, or fifteen pounds of 
 coke, will cook for one hundred men. 
 
 “ War,” said I to myself, “is the evil genius of a 
 time ; but good food for all is a daily and a paramount 
 necessity. - ” These reflections led to a further communi- 
 cation with Messrs. Smith and Phillips, of Snow-hill. I 
 took out a patent for the stoves. This I did not like to 
 do before I had introduced them to the Government, as 
 every one would have supposed that I wished to make 
 money by the patent. The object of a patent, after such 
 a decided success, was to secure the solidity and perfec- 
 tion of the article. As it was difficult to make, and 
 certain to be badly imitated, my reputation must have 
 suffered. Instead of being expensive, they will be sold 
 at a reasonable price, sufficient to repay the manufac- 
 turers, and to leave a fair profit; thus placing them 
 within the reach of all — the million as well as the mil- 
 lionaire. 
 
 As the Highlanders had already used the stoves, I 
 changed my plan, and instead of placing them between 
 the Guards’ camp, thought it would be better to have them 
 in the centre of the Highland Brigade, as near as pos- 
 sible to Sir Colin Campbell’s head-quarters, which would 
 enable him to watch the proceedings without trouble. 
 For this purpose, I went to his quarters, and was told 
 that the best time to see him was from eight till nine in 
 the morning at the latest. Next morning I was on my 
 way to the Scotch camp by seven o’clock. I saw Colonel 
 
SIR COLIN CAMPBELL. 
 
 344 
 
 Stirling, Sir Colin’s private secretary, who informed me 
 that Sir Colin would be happy to receive me. My 
 reception by that brave and illustrious general was highly 
 gratifying to my feelings. 
 
 “Welcome, Monsieur Soyer !” exclaimed the general, 
 as I entered his tent. He shook me by the hand, with 
 a smile on his face which one could see came from the 
 heart. The fine long beard which then adorned his 
 visage could only be portrayed by a Rembrandt or a 
 Titian. The amiable and fine qualities of that noble- 
 hearted general, so well known to every Englishman, 
 made me feel proud of being so cordially received by one 
 the pride of his country. 
 
 “How are you, Monsieur Soyer?” 
 
 “Never better, general,” was my answer. “I am 
 happy to see you are enjoying good health.” 
 
 “ Thank God, I am. Be seated, and tell me what I 
 can do for you.” 
 
 “ I shall esteem it a great favour, general, if you will 
 allow me to place my new field-stoves in your brigade, 
 instead of on the esplanade. Your men have, unknown to 
 me, commenced cooking with them ; and as they already 
 know how to use them, I should prefer leaving them in 
 their hands.” 
 
 “Very well, Monsieur Soyer; select the spot, and 
 Colonel Stirling will give you all the assistance you may 
 require.” 
 
 “ Thank you, general ; but I must observe that this 
 is only a trial, and they will be removed so soon as the 
 Commander-in-chief has seen them in use, and decided 
 upon their merits.” 
 
 After taking some refreshment, kindly offered by the 
 general, I went to Colonel Stirling, and informed him 
 of the general’s decision. He promised to have every- 
 thing ready to commence operations the next morning. 
 
 The following day 1 was out very early at the 
 Inkermann heights, with a numerous party, looking 
 towards the Tchernaya Bridge. It was the 16th of 
 August, the day of that memorable battle, which does 
 not require a description on my part. From four till 
 
BATTLE OE THE TCHERNAYA. 
 
 345 
 
 eight that morning I looked on, and saw the retreat 
 of the Russians and the triumph of the French and 
 Sardinians. 
 
 On my return, I had the pleasure of riding with Lord 
 Rokeby, who was on his way to his quarters to give some 
 important orders. I had a very interesting conversation 
 with his lordship, who explained the plan of the battle — 
 how it commenced and ended, with the probable loss on 
 both sides. He had been up all night : reinforcements 
 were pouring in from all directions of the Allied camps, 
 with the cavalry, then commanded by General Scarlett, 
 as another attack was expected. Near Lord Rokeby' s 
 quarters we met Colonel Seymour, who gave him a 
 despatch, whereupon the former immediately left us. 
 The colonel rode with me some distance, giving me 
 more details respecting the engagement. He then re- 
 marked that I had not called the day before, according 
 to promise. I told him that I had been detained later 
 than I anticipated : I also mentioned my interview 
 with Sir Colin Campbell. He said — 
 
 iC You have done well, Monsieur Soyer; but of course 
 I shall not be able to do so much for you, as I am in 
 another brigade : however, I will do my utmost.” He 
 then observed, “ I believe, though I was introduced 
 to you the other day by General Simpson, you do not 
 recollect me.” 
 
 “ To be frank with you, colonel, I must acknowledge 
 that your face is very familiar, but I cannot recal where 
 I had the pleasure of seeing you before.” 
 
 “ You will remember me, when I tell you I have been 
 many times in your kitchen at the Reform Club. • Do 
 you recollect me now?” 
 
 This explanation not having enlightened me, he con- 
 tinued — 
 
 “ It was I — then Captain Seymour — who accompanied 
 the Prince of Prussia, the Duke of Saxe- Coburg, the 
 Grand Duke Michael, the Princess Clementina of France, 
 and his Royal Highness Prince Albert, whose aide-de- 
 camp I was for several years.” 
 
 It was not until he said this that I recalled the 
 
346 
 
 RECOGNISED AT LAST. 
 
 colonel’s face, as he had been completely metamorphosed 
 from the drawing-room dandy to a fierce and war-worn 
 warrior. I was now much delighted to find so firm a 
 supporter of my undertaking. I could not, however, 
 account for the sudden change in his appearance since I 
 had seen him at the Reform Club. 
 
 I went to see Colonel Stirling, though not expecting 
 to find him or Sir Colin in the camp, when, by chance, 
 he returned, having important business to transact. 
 Upon seeing me, he said — • 
 
 “ Ah, Monsieur Soyer, you have selected a very glo- 
 rious day for the commencement of your hostilities ; but 
 I regret I shall not be able to assist you, as we do not 
 know how this affair will be decided.” 
 
 “ You do not for a moment suppose, colonel, that I 
 would intrude upon your valuable time on such an occa- 
 sion ? Having slept in camp, I only called en passant. 
 Good-morning, colonel.” 
 
 “Good-day, Soyer. I would advise you to call to- 
 morrow.” 
 
 Having given a look at my Highlanders’ cooking, and 
 tasted some coffee which they had prepared for breakfast 
 according to my receipt, I retired, much pleased with 
 their success. 
 
 I remained at the camp till nearly three in the after- 
 noon. About one, a long train of mules made their 
 appearance, bearing wounded French and Russian 
 soldiers — the latter prisoners. About twenty were 
 wounded ; the rest followed the mournful procession. 
 Assisted by a few of my men, I gave them some wine, 
 brandy, porter, &c. — in fact, whatever we could get at the 
 canteen — which seemed to afford them much relief. I 
 of course treated the wounded Russians in the same 
 manner as the French ; though two refused to take any- 
 thing, fearing poison. 
 
 Not doubting that many more would pass, as I had 
 some provisions in a tent for the opening of my kitchens, 
 I made some sago jelly, with wine, calves’ -foot jelly, &c., 
 which unfortunately was not used, as the other prisoners 
 went by a different road, though taken to the General 
 
WOUNDED EllOM THE EIGHT. 
 
 347 
 
 Hospital at the French head-quarters. Upon leaving, I 
 ordered my men to be on the look-out, and if any- 
 wounded or prisoners came by, to offer them some 
 refreshment. 
 
 Just as I was going, I perceived a few mules ap- 
 proaching the Guards* camp. As they advanced, I 
 and one of my men went towards some of the wounded 
 with a basin of sago in hand, saying, this was a sort of 
 half-way ambulance, where they might obtain all they 
 might require. I was aware that some of the Russian 
 prisoners in the first convoy would not accept any 
 refreshment, for fear of being poisoned, of course not 
 knowing better. The case of two poor French soldiers 
 I cannot pass in silence. One had been severely 
 wounded in the head, and was almost in a state of 
 insensibility; the other had had his leg amputated on 
 the field of battle. The first, after taking a few spoonfuls 
 of the hot sago, asked for a drop of brandy, saying 
 he felt faint. The conductor at first objected to this, 
 but upon my asking him to take a glass with me and 
 the patient, he agreed that it would do him no harm 
 if it did him no good — adding, that very likely he 
 would not survive the day. Having mixed if with water, 
 he drank it, and thanked me warmly. The other was an 
 officer. After giving him some wine-jelly, I conversed 
 with him. 
 
 “ How good this jelly is !** said he, in French ; “ pray 
 give me another spoonful or two, if you have it to spare.** 
 
 Having done this, he said that he suddenly felt very 
 thirsty. This was, no doubt, owing to the loss of blood. 
 I gave him some lemonade. He drank above a pint, 
 and felt more composed, and proceeded to the hospital, 
 near the English head-quarters. I accompanied him, 
 and he told me that his leg had just been amputated ; 
 and, with tears in his eyes, added, in a low voice, “ All 
 I regret is, that my military career should have ended 
 so soon. I am but thirty years of age, and have only 
 been two months in the Crimea.** 
 
 “ My dear friend,** I replied, to cheer him, “ many 
 thousands have done less, and died ; but you will 
 
348 
 
 BORNET IN A RAGE. 
 
 survive, and be rewarded for your gallant service — 
 you belong to a nation which, can appreciate noble 
 devotion.” 
 
 “Ah!” said he, “you have done me a deal of good, 
 no matter who you are ; if my life is spared, I beg you 
 will let me see or hear from you.” 
 
 Though he gave me his name, not having my pocket- 
 book with me, I could not make a note of it. Some 
 time after, I visited the hospital, in company with Dr. 
 Wyatt of the Coldstream Guards. We learnt that the 
 man who had been wounded in the head had died, but 
 that the officer whose leg had been amputated had been 
 sent home to France. 
 
 About six in the evening, I and my Zouave visited 
 the field of battle. The sight was indeed a melancholy 
 one. The French and Sardinians were busily engaged 
 burying their dead, as well as those of the enemy, but 
 were compelled to desist several times in consequence of 
 the Russian cannonade from the heights. 
 
 Bornet, my Zouave, perceiving that the Russians were 
 firing upon the Allies while burying their dead, got in 
 such a towering passion, that I thought he would have 
 gone alone and taken the Russian batteries. I had 
 great difficulty in getting him home, for, as I have 
 before said, the smell of gunpowder was to him like the 
 scent of a rat to a terrier. 
 
 On arriving on board the Baraguay d’Hittiers , we learnt 
 from the captain that he was to take his departure in a 
 few days, at which I was very sorry, not having opened 
 my kitchen, nor being as yet installed in the camp. I 
 applied to the harbour-master, who advised me to choose 
 the Bdvjard; as she was a transport and laden with 
 hospital stores, she was likely to remain longest in 
 harbour. 
 
 I was at this time busily engaged pitching my tents 
 in the camp. The opening of my kitchen was delayed 
 in consequence of the troops being on duty at the 
 Tchernaya. This lasted for about ten days, when it was 
 rumoured that Sir Colin Campbell wished to remove his 
 camp to Kamara, in order to be nearer the spot at which 
 
MY OPENING DAY. 
 
 349 
 
 it was supposed ilie expected attack would take place. 
 I therefore pitched my tent on the spot I had at first 
 selected. The day for my opening ceremony was fixed 
 upon by General Simpson ; and my friend Colonel Sey- 
 mour very kindly assisted me in many ways, and even 
 wrote letters of invitation to the colonels and officers of 
 the different regiments. I was anxious for them to give 
 their approval or non-approval of the method. Two days 
 before, Colonel Seymour and myself had settled every- 
 thing to our satisfaction, and wishing to make a kind of 
 fete champetre of the opening day, we applied at proper 
 quarters for a band of music, which was granted. 
 
 My opening day was the one fixed upon for the dis- 
 tribution of the Order of the Bath. In parting from 
 the colonel, he observed, “Well, Monsieur Soyer, I think 
 we shall make a good thing of this, unless something 
 happens to me in the trenches to-night. I am just going 
 there.” 
 
 These words were said in as light-hearted a manner as 
 though he was going to a ball, and passed from my mind 
 as quickly. The gallant colonel was then going perhaps 
 for the hundredth time to his dangerous and uncertain 
 duty. 
 
 I returned to Balaklava for the last time previous to 
 taking up my permanent residence at the camp. I 
 had settled all to my entire satisfaction. With Sir 
 George Maclean, the Commissary- General, I had arranged 
 respecting the quantity of rations required for a certain 
 number of men ; with Mr. Fitzgerald, the Deputy Pur- 
 veyor-in-chief, for the fresh meat ; and with the butcher 
 for a supply of four ox-heads and six ox-feet, out of the 
 number he daily buried. I placed all my people in their 
 different stations according to merit and qualification. 
 I obtained from Major Mackenzie, through the kindness 
 of Sir Thomas Eyre, the Ordnance Master, some wood 
 and four carpenters to put up some tables and a few 
 benches, and ordered from Messrs. Crockford, at Donny- 
 brook, a certain quantity of wines and refreshments 
 worthy of the illustrious guests I was about to receive. 
 
350 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 MY GREAT FIELD DAY. 
 
 Invitations — Colonel Seymour’s kindness — He is wounded — Visit 
 to the disabled officer — Desertions — Tents pitched at last — A 
 gay scene — Bill of fare — My reception commences — The new 
 stoves — Process of tasting — The fair sex- — Arrival of the Allied 
 generals and their staff — A luncheon alfresco — General Barnard’s 
 bon- mot — Inspection of the stoves — Influx of visitors — Letters 
 from the Allied commanders — Interview with Sir Edmund 
 Lyons — Meeting of generals — Plans discussed — Various messes 
 — Colonel Handcock and his lady — A sad change — An experi- 
 ment — Colonel Daniell’s letter — A regimental kitchen. 
 
 My gallant master of the ceremonies, Colonel Seymour, 
 had kindly taken the most important part of my duty 
 off my hands, by inviting all the heads of the military 
 and medical authorities, with a great number of whom, 
 in consequence of my short stay in the Crimea, I was 
 not yet, or, at least, only partially acquainted. I had 
 now removed to the Edward , and also left her, but still 
 kept, if not a pied a terre (as we say in French), at least 
 a pied sur mer , for myself and people, in case I should 
 require to go to Balaklava and stay there for the night. 
 
 This was on the 26th of August, 1855 — the 27th was 
 to be the opening day. All my people had left for the 
 camp, with arms and baggage. I was certain of suc- 
 cess and without the slightest anxiety. On arriving at 
 my field of operations, I learnt, to my deep sorrow, that 
 my right hand, Colonel Seymour, had, during the night, 
 been dangerously wounded in the trenches. I imme- 
 diately went to his quarters to ascertain the nature of his 
 wound. His servant told me, that for the present no 
 one could tell ; he had been struck by the splinter of a 
 shell at the back of the neck, and lost a great deal of 
 blood. The doctor then came out and informed me that 
 
THE WOUNDED COLONEL. 
 
 351 
 
 the wound was not so bad as had been at first anticipated. 
 His servant announced me, and although very weak, the 
 colonel begged I would enter his tent. He was lying 
 upon the ground upon a blanket, covered with another, 
 and his military cloak over that. His head was ban- 
 daged with a turban of white linen stained with 
 blood. His first words were, “Monsieur Soyer, you 
 see what has happened at last. I much regret it, as I 
 shall not be able to perform my promise to you respecting 
 your opening.” 
 
 “Never mind, colonel; don’t let us talk about that 
 subject now, but about yourself.” 
 
 “Well,” he replied, “the doctor has just been, and 
 says that the wound is not mortal, nor even so dangerous 
 as he at first anticipated.” 
 
 “ Colonel, you want repose, so I will retire.” 
 
 “ There is no occasion for that, Monsieur Soyer ; I 
 feel strong again. When I was struck, I did not feel the 
 wound, and fell immediately, remaining for some time 
 insensible, the wound, as the doctor says, having acted 
 upon the brain.” 
 
 “ Don’t exert yourself, my dear colonel, by talking. 
 Thank God it is no worse. I will go and send you 
 some lemonade. I have asked the doctor what was best 
 for you, and am happy to say I have some ice.” 
 
 “Many thanks for your kind attention, Monsieur 
 Soyer.” 
 
 I then retired. Upon reaching my kitchen, I found 
 that no one had yet arrived. The four carpenters had 
 left me in the lurch, having run away in the night, and 
 abandoned their work, after stealing all they could from 
 the tents. Mr. Doyne, the chief of the Army Works 
 Corps, kindly supplied me with workmen, and offered to 
 lend me, for a few days, as many tents as I required. 
 As the weather was then intensely hot, I accepted his 
 offer, and requested the loan of a large marquee, under 
 which a couple of hundred people could stand. Captain 
 Gordon lent me two smaller ones, and by the evening 
 they were pitched, and my provisions had all arrived, 
 and my people were at their posts. 
 
352 
 
 BILL OP PAKE. 
 
 I much regretted that many persons of distinction 
 were not invited, in consequence of the unfortunate 
 accident to Colonel Seymour, which happened before he 
 had sent out all the invitations. At all events, the day, 
 though fixed at hazard, turned out extremely well adapted 
 for the reception of a large party. 
 
 Early in the morning the camp seemed full of life and 
 gaiety. Mounted officers in full uniform might be seen 
 rushing about in all directions; bands were playing, regi- 
 ments filing past, and everything bearing the appearance 
 of a great festival. I set cheerfully to work, and, in 
 spite of difficulties which can only be understood by 
 those who have been in the Crimea, I succeeded in 
 getting all in tolerably good order for my great martial 
 banquet al fresco . I made several messes with the 
 soldiers* rations, and at the same expense, though I had 
 introduced sauce and ingredients which could easily be 
 added to the army stores without increasing the cost, 
 thus making a nice variation in the meals, so important 
 to the health of a large body of men like the army or 
 navy, to the latter of which it is as easily applicable as 
 the former. 
 
 The bill of fare consisted of plain boiled salt beef; 
 ditto, with dumplings; plain boiled salt pork; ditto, with 
 peas-pudding ; stewed salt pork and beef, with rice ; 
 French pot-au-feu; stewed fresh beef, with potatoes; 
 mutton, ditto, with haricot beans ; ox-cheek and ox-feet 
 soups ; Scotch mutton-broth ; common curry, made with 
 fresh and salt beef. (See receipts in Addenda.) 
 
 By three o* clock my guests began to arrive. The 
 stoves were in the open air, placed in a semicircle, and, 
 though in a state of ebullition, no one could perceive that 
 any cooking was going on, except on raising the lids. 
 A material point I had in view was that no fire should 
 be seen when used in the trenches. A common table, 
 made of a few boards, and garnished with soldiers* tin 
 plates, iron forks and spoons, composed my open-air 
 dining-room. 
 
 About four o* clock my reception commenced. Lord 
 Rokeby, accompanied by several French officers in full 
 
THE NEW APPARATUS. 
 
 353 
 
 dress, was the first to honour me with a visit. This 
 gave me an opportunity of fully explaining to him and 
 his friends the plan and construction of the apparatus, as 
 well as its simplicity, cleanliness, and great economy in 
 the consumption of fuel. At the same time, I showed 
 with what ease and certainty the men could regulate the 
 heat and prepare the new receipts — which will be found at 
 the end of this work. 
 
 I must also observe, for the information of those who 
 only saw them upon that occasion, that the stoves, having 
 been made for the General Hospital, were too large and 
 heavy for campaigning. That I might lose no time in 
 making my trial before the authorities, I used them 
 upon that occasion, as the process was the same as 
 regards cooking in those as in the smaller ones. The 
 sole difference was in the size, as it was understood that 
 two would cook for a company of one hundred and twenty 
 men, and might be carried by one mule while on march, 
 with sufficient dry wood inside for the next day’s cooking. 
 This was of the utmost importance, in order to ensure 
 the regularity of the soldier’s meal, which ought always 
 to be ready at the minute fixed by the rules of the service. 
 
 Thus I had surmounted every difficulty by the inven- 
 tion of this apparatus. In addition to its simplicity and 
 economy, it had the merit of making cooks of soldiers, of 
 which they had previously neither the inclination nor 
 the chance. Smaller stoves on the same principle were 
 also to be provided for picket and outpost duty, as first 
 suggested to me by Lord Raglan. After giving the 
 foregoing information to my illustrious visitors, we passed 
 to the grand process of tasting the various messes. They 
 all gave perfect satisfaction. 
 
 By this time several hundred visitors had made their 
 appearance, and gay and animated was the scene. All 
 present were in the same costume as that in which they 
 appeared at the grand chivalric ceremony which had 
 taken place at head-quarters — the installation of the Order 
 of the Bath. I was also highly favoured, I may say, by 
 the presence of a charming group of the fair sex, about ten 
 in number, escorted by their cavaliers. After taking some 
 
 A A 
 
354 
 
 ARRIVAL OE THE GENERALS. 
 
 refreshment under the monster tent, they came to add 
 their charms to the martial banquet, and taste with gusto 
 the rough food of the brave. I had nothing out of doors 
 to offer their delicate palates but the soldiers’ rations, 
 transmogrified in various ways. My task now became 
 extremely difficult. The crowd was so great, that my 
 batteries were quite taken by storm ( de cuisine , of course) . 
 Refreshments of all kinds were distributed pretty freely 
 throughout the day. The band in attendance was ordered 
 to play, and struck up “ Partant pour la Syrie.” All were 
 immediately on the qui vive, when Captain Colville 
 galloped up to me, and said — 
 
 “ General Simpson has sent me to inform you that 
 General Pelissier and himself will be here in a few 
 minutes.” 
 
 A gorgeous cavalcade was soon seen in the dis- 
 tance. It consisted of the Allied Generals and Staff, 
 and a numerous suite. General Pelissier alighted from 
 his carriage, and joined General Simpson. I went and 
 met the distinguished visitors, who had come from head- 
 quarters after the ceremony of the distribution of the 
 Order of the Bath by Lord Stratford de Redcliffe. 
 
 Upon the arrival of the generals, the band continued 
 playing “ Partant pour la Syrie.” The cannon of Sebas- 
 topol appeared to redouble its roar — so much so, that 
 General Pelissier, with a smile, called General Simpson’s 
 attention to the fact : added to which, the hundreds of 
 uniforms, cocked hats and feathers — French, English, 
 and Sardinian — gave full effect to the lively scene. 
 
 In course of conversation, General Simpson said, “Mon- 
 sieur Soyer, — Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, in reply to your 
 letter, sends his compliments, and regrets he shall not be 
 able to attend your opening, as he must be on board the 
 Caradoc , now lying in Kamiesch Bay, by five o’clock, on 
 his way to Constantinople.” 
 
 I thanked General Simpson for his kindness in 
 troubling himself about the message, and the review 
 of my culinary camp, which upon this occasion was 
 rather extensive, commenced. It comprised four bell- 
 tents, one marquee, and a large square tent, capable 
 
A CRIMEAN BON-MOT., 
 
 355 
 
 of holding’ more than two hundred persons. A luncheon 
 al fresco was served in the camp, arid four of my 
 cooks attended upon the guests. The tops of the tents 
 were surmounted with flags and garlands of ever- 
 greens composed of vine-leaves ; the same were also 
 attached to the posts which supported the rope forming 
 the limits of the enclosure, giving to the whole a martial 
 and lively appearance. The weather was so fine that 
 every one preferred remaining in the open air. 
 
 Generals Pelissier and Simpson proceeded to taste the 
 various articles of food. The pot-au-feu, or beef-soup, 
 was prepared partly from ox-heads, which were usually 
 buried, instead of being used as food for the soldiers, no 
 doubt in consequence of the difficulty of cleaning them. 
 
 General Pelissier tasted several samples of the pot-au- 
 feu, and, addressing General Barnard, declared that he 
 felt as interested in this unexpected exhibition as in the 
 ceremony of the morning. The witty General Barnard 
 replied, “ Your excellency must agree with me that this 
 day has been remarkably well spent : we devoted the 
 morning to the cordon rouge , and the afternoon to the 
 cordon bleu General Pelissier much enjoyed the bon- 
 mot , and repeated it to the officers of his Staff, thus 
 creating great hilarity amongst them. 
 
 I requested many of my visitors to taste the different 
 preparations, and, much to my satisfaction, I believe 
 almost all of them did so, and expressed their approbation 
 of them. After pointing out the merits of the stoves to 
 the Commanders-in-chief, I conducted them to the spot 
 where the Scotch Division formerly cooked their rations 
 in the old tin camp-kettles. On our way. I observed to 
 General Pelissier that I had visited the French camp- 
 kitchens, and found their marmites superior to the English. 
 The soup made by the French soldiers, I said, was very 
 good. At this the General seemed much pleased. 
 
 The space required for three or four regiments 
 extended about three hundred and fifty feet in length. 
 A rough wall of loose stones had been erected by 
 the men to form a screen, which when the regiment 
 moved was, of course, left behind. The furnaces were 
 
 a a 2 
 
856 
 
 CLOSE OF THE LEVEE. 
 
 also constructed of loose stones, held together by iron 
 hoops ; upon these the tin cans were placed and the 
 rations cooked. By this plan an immense quantity of 
 wood was inevitably wasted, and the fires were sometimes 
 extinguished by the heavy rains. My stoves completely 
 obviated all those previously insurmountable difficulties. 
 
 Having listened to this explanation, the Commanders- 
 in-chief admitted the beneficial results and advantages 
 of the stoves. However, General Simpson observed, that 
 I, of course, applied the contrast to my advantage ; but 
 also said, it was nothing but fair, and I was perfectly 
 justified in so doing. In the first place, my stoves oc- 
 cupied but little room, and cooked much better than 
 those formerly in use. The Generals were so much 
 pleased with them, that before leaving the camp they 
 wrote the annexed letters in my album. The same 
 evening I received one from the War-office, relative to- 
 my success in the hospitals at Scutari, which I also 
 append. 
 
 The Allied Generals remained with me above an hour. 
 This gave me an excellent opportunity of conversing with 
 General Pelissier, who minutely described camp life in 
 Algeria, after which the General and Staff retired. As it 
 was then nearly seven o'clock, a great number of officers 
 followed. No less than eight hundred or a thousand 
 persons of distinction visited the kitchens during the day : 
 many were not invited, in consequence of the unfortunate 
 accident to Colonel Seymour. About nine all was over,, 
 and the band played “ God save the Queen." 
 
 Nothing could have succeeded better than this opening, 
 a drawing of which appeared in the Illustrated News of 
 September 22nd, 1855. 
 
 General Pelissier s letter . 
 
 J’ai eu le plaisir, le vingt-sept Aout, 1855, de visiter l’etablisse- 
 ment culinaire de Monsieur Soyer, et j’ai ete bien satisfait de ce que 
 j’y ai vu ; j’ai ete frappe surtout de l’economie de temps et de 
 chauffage apporte dans f alimentation des troupes. Les chaudieres 
 paraissent bien entendues ; j’ai tout goute, et a tout, jele reconnais,. 
 j’ai trouve un gout excellent et tres-appetissant. 
 
 Genekal A. Pelissiek. 
 
OPENING OF SOYER’S FIELD KITCHEN BEFORE SEBASTOPOL. 
 
Sill EDMUND LYONS. 
 
 357 
 
 General Simpsons Letter, 
 
 Camp before Sebastopol, 31s£ August, 1855. 
 
 I had much pleasure in visiting Monsieur Soyer’s field-kitchen last 
 Monda} r , the 27th instant. I there saw several excellent soups 
 made from ration meat, compressed vegetables, and other things 
 within reach of the soldier’s means, and cooked with very little fuel. 
 I consider Monsieur Soyer is taking great pains in devoting his time 
 and great talents to the good of our military service, especially in 
 the field, and I wish him every possible success and honourable 
 award. 
 
 James Simpson, 
 
 General Commanding, 
 
 War-Office, Qth August , 1855. 
 
 Sir, — I am directed to acknowledge the receipt, on the 2nd 
 ultimo, of your report upon the culinary department of the hospitals 
 in the East; and, in returning the thanks of the Secretary-at-War, 
 to acquaint you, that he recognises, with the greatest satisfaction, 
 the exertions you have made and are still making for the benefit of 
 the army in the field, and also of the sick and wounded in the several 
 hospitals. 
 
 I am, Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 M. Soyer, Scutari. Fred. J. Prescott. 
 
 About the 5th of September, I was at head-quarters, 
 when who should walk in but Sir Edmund Lyons ! I had 
 not had the pleasure of seeing him before, and I took this 
 opportunity of introducing myself, and informing the 
 Commander of the British Fleet in the Black Sea, that I 
 was very anxious to pay my respectful compliments to 
 him. 
 
 Upon this. Sir Edmund Lyons, with the kindest feeling, 
 at once offered me his hand, saying, “ Monsieur Soyer, 
 I assure you I am delighted to make your acquaintance. 
 You are doing much good for our brave soldiers ; but 
 you must not forget our worthy sailors. Come and see 
 us on board the Albert ; you will be well received and 
 quite welcome. I have heard much about your field- 
 kitchens, and it was only the other day I was reading 
 a very important complimentary letter which General 
 Pelissier had written in their favour.” 
 
 “ He did me that honour, admiral, and he seemed 
 highly gratified.” 
 
358 
 
 PLANS DISCUSSED. 
 
 “ I can assure you he was. Monsieur Soyer, for I heard 
 him say so.” 
 
 A few days after the grand opening ceremony, a meet- 
 ing took place, by order of the Minister-at-War and 
 General Simpson, to consider the possibility of supplying 
 a pint of hot soup to the men in the trenches during 
 the winter. The meeting was held at Lord Rukeby’s 
 head-quarters, on the 3rd or 4th of September. I was 
 ordered to be present. On my way there I had the 
 pleasure of meeting General Barnard, who in his hu- 
 morous manner addressed me thus : — 
 
 “ Hallo, General Soyer ! Fm not so much behind as 
 I thought; for you are only just going to the general 
 meeting, or the meeting of generals.” 
 
 “You are right, general,” I replied. “Thank you 
 for the noble title you have bestowed upon me, and at 
 the seat of war too.” 
 
 “ The fact is, I understood the meeting was to be held 
 at head- quarters, and went half-way there, when I met 
 some officers who told me it was to be at Lord Rokeby^s. 
 But they cannot proceed without you, general. Never 
 mind, Soyer, we are only a few minutes behind time.” 
 
 When we arrived, the Board was sitting. Sir Colin 
 Campbell had sent a message, stating that some impor- 
 tant duties would prevent his attendance. The proceed- 
 ings then commenced, and the order was read by General 
 Bentinck ; which, as far as I can recollect, was worded 
 thus : — 
 
 Lord Panmnre, the Minister-at-War, anxious for the comfort of 
 the troops in the Crimea, is desirous that, if possible, every man in 
 the trenches should he supplied with a basin of hot soup during' 
 the winter nights ; the allowance of rum to be, in consequence, 
 either diminished or entirely withheld. His lordship believing 
 Monsieur Soyer to be still in the Crimea, requests the Board to 
 inquire of him if such would be practicable. 
 
 I at once replied that it could be done, and without 
 difficulty, for any number of men, by the application of 
 my field-stoves. This answer met with the general ap- 
 probation of the assembled Board. I next remarked 
 that the stoves might be placed in the trenches, even in 
 
A CANDID OPINION. 
 
 359 
 
 front of the enemy, as not a spark of fire could be seen 
 either by day or night while they were in use. This point 
 having been satisfactorily settled, the question of taking 
 away or reducing the quantity of rum was seriously de- 
 bated. General Eyre was of opinion that the men would 
 not like to part with any portion of their rum. Gene- 
 rals Bentinck, Rokeby, &c., were in favour of giving the 
 soup as an addition, and allowing the rum to be issued 
 as usual. It struck me that by giving only half a gill 
 of rum the other half would almost entirely cover the ex- 
 pense of the soup, if economically managed. I also pro- 
 posed another plan, which was to give less rum and less 
 than a pint of soup, which was discussed. 
 
 When the inquiry was over, I said — “ Gentlemen, I 
 shall feel obliged if you will favour me with a visit to my 
 field kitchen. I have made several experiments in diets 
 for you to taste, and if you approve of them, have no 
 doubt, when you know the cost, you will be able to settle 
 the question of supplying soup in the trenches with more 
 certainty.” 
 
 All present agreed, excepting General Eyre, who 
 was of opinion that what he as a soldier had for so many 
 years found answer for the men, would answer now ; nor 
 did he see why the soldiers should live better than him- 
 self. “1 should be very happy,” said he, “to improve 
 the daily food of the troops, but do not like anything 
 to be overdone. I like judicious discipline in all things.” 
 
 Though I must frankly admit I was anything but 
 enchanted with the genera? s way of thinking at first, I 
 could not but admire the latter part of his argument, 
 which was as sincere as it was severe. 
 
 Several debates took place upon the subject, and, after 
 a little persuasion, I induced them all to come, and taste 
 the samples I had prepared for their inspection. I proudly 
 led my very select cavalcade towards my batteries, which 
 upon that occasion were in charge of the troops. I had 
 only given the written receipts for them to act upon, 
 and charged a sergeant to watch over them, and see that 
 the proportions in the receipts were properly attended to. 
 An infallible plan of ensuring success at all times is to 
 
360 
 
 NEW MESSES. 
 
 appoint a man of superior grade as overlooker. One to 
 each regiment would be sufficient. 
 
 Upon our arrival we found everything in perfect order : 
 the stoves were clean, the contents properly cooked, and 
 the consumption of fuel four hundred per cent, less than 
 in the usual way. Only five different messes were pre- 
 pared upon this occasion — viz., ox-head soup, stewed 
 fresh beef, Scotch hodge-podge of mutton, salt pork and 
 beef with dumplings. Everything was done to perfec- 
 tion. After carefully explaining the process to Generals 
 Eyre and Bentinck, who were not present on the great 
 opening day, we sat down to test the quality of the 
 articles. A sumptuous lunch was displayed from the 
 soldiers' rations — always excepting the ox heads, which 
 I had obtained from the butcher, as usual, on the eve of 
 their funeral. W ith these I made an excellent pot au feu , 
 enough for fifty men. Lord Rokeby was so highly 
 delighted with it, that he recommended it to all, and 
 requested me to give this receipt, as well as that for 
 stewed beef, to his cook — for which see Addenda. 
 
 A goblet of Marsala wine, with a lump of ice, termi- 
 nated this martial collation under a burning sun, and 
 amid the everlasting roar of the bombardment of the 
 besieged city. The guests retired, quite satisfied. Even 
 General Eyre, though still adhering to his opinion that 
 it was too good for soldiers, and would make them lazy, 
 said, “ Soldiers do not require such good messes as those 
 while campaigning." At which remark the gentlemen 
 present could not refrain from laughing. 
 
 “Well, general," said I, “your plan has been tried, 
 and, as you perceive, has not answered. I was therefore 
 obliged to introduce a simpler style, by which soldiers 
 might cook with pleasure and less difficulty, and, having 
 once learnt, always will cook properly, and with less 
 trouble. You must also observe, general, that it is with 
 the same rations as before. And is it not better to make 
 a few good cooks out of an army than to have an army 
 of bad cooks ?" 
 
 By this time the general was on his charger. He 
 said, “We are both right. For my part, I mean what 
 
A SAD CHANGE. 
 
 361 
 
 I say : yon will improve tlie cook, but spoil the 
 soldier.” 
 
 I then thanked them for their gracious condescension, 
 and they started for their several divisions, promising to 
 let me know their final decision. 
 
 Amongst the military authorities who visited me that 
 day were General Scarlett and Staff, Colonel St. George, 
 Colonel Handcock and lady, a very charming person, 
 and extremely merry. She observed, when I presented 
 her with some champagne and ice in a large tin goblet, 
 as she sat upon her horse, “Upon my word, Monsieur 
 Soyer, champagne is better in tin cups in the Crimea 
 than in crystal goblets in England.” 
 
 “ I am glad you like it, madam. Shall I offer you 
 another ?” 
 
 “No, I thank you.” 
 
 “ Madam would like to taste some of the men’s 
 rations,” said Colonel Handcock. 
 
 “ Would you, madam?” 
 
 “ Many thanks. Monsieur Soyer. I think not, after 
 the champagne.” 
 
 After paying a visit to my abode, my guests departed. 
 
 A few days afterwards, I heard that that poor crea- 
 ture was plunged in the deepest sorrow. Upon making 
 a chance visit, I could not believe her to be the same 
 person; the bloom of life appeared to have suddenly 
 deserted her laughing cheeks, which wore a cadaverous 
 hue. Such was the effect sorrow soon produced on the 
 appearance of one usually so animated and full of mirth. 
 (See page 368.) 
 
 As I noticed that the men daily threw the fat away 
 from their salt beef and pork, the last of which is of 
 first-rate quality, I proposed to Colonel Daniell, of the 
 Coldstream Guards, to make his men cook for his regi- 
 ment, which was agreed upon. He always took great 
 interest in the welfare of his soldiers and in my culinary 
 proceedings, and I had the honour of being acquainted 
 with him for some years as a subscriber to benevo- 
 lent institutions, and in particular to soup-kitchens 
 for the poor. The next day the rations were brought 
 
362 
 
 ECONOMICAL 11EFORMS. 
 
 in; the salt beef and pork were cooked, and a few 
 dumplings added, as an innovation. The wood was 
 weighed, and twenty -seven pounds were sufficient to 
 cook the rations for the whole regiment. The meat was 
 done to perfection, and without trouble. I begged that 
 the sixteen cooks daily employed for the regiment might 
 be present. Two would have done, or even one, as the 
 water and provisions were brought by a fatigue party, 
 therefore fifteen men might have been spared; and 
 only forty-seven pounds of wood were used, instead 
 of one thousand seven hundred and sixty. When, the 
 meat was cooked, we skimmed off forty-two pounds of 
 fat as white as snow, and not black, as was the case 
 when cooked in the small canteen-pans with little water. 
 This spoilt the fat, which might be used in lieu of 
 butter on bread or biscuit. To do this properly, soak 
 the biscuits in water for about ten minutes ; take them 
 out, let them dry a little; put some fat in the pan; 
 when hot, fry them as you would a piece of bacon : a few 
 minutes will do them. When crisp, season with salt 
 and pepper, if handy. They make an excellent article 
 of food. 
 
 Tor this saving and improvement, Colonel Daniell, 
 whom I will back for discipline and straightforwardness 
 of opinion against any one in the army, gave me the 
 following letter : — 
 
 COLDSTKEAM GlTAKDS’ CAMP, BEFOKE SEBASTOPOL, 
 
 Sept., 1855. 
 
 I have this day attended Monsieur Soyer’s course of instruction 
 to the cooks of my battalion, and have tasted the messes cooked 
 and served to the men, consisting of salt pork and beef. The mode 
 in which the salt is extracted and the meat rendered comparatively 
 tender by the apparatus used, the facility with which the grease is 
 taken off and rendered serviceable for other purposes, is admirable ; 
 and I consider the arrangements relative to the small consumption 
 of wood, and the simplicity with which the cooking is conducted, 
 will, if adopted, tend much to the health, comfort, and well-being of 
 the soldier. 
 
 The present size of the “ chaudrieres” being objectionable, I am 
 glad to hear from Monsieur Soyer that he is about to procure some of 
 a less size. The fuel consumed to-day for cooking the messes of eight 
 companies was hardly more than on ordinary occasions is consumed 
 
A 11EGIMENTAL KITCHEN. 
 
 363 
 
 by one Compaq; and from four hundred and twenty rations of 
 salt pork and beef, forty-eight pounds of excellent lard was procured, 
 which usually is wasted. These facts alone render Monsieur Soyer’s- 
 plan at once economical and desirable, and I have great pleasure in 
 testifying my appreciation of the manner with which he conve} r s 
 instruction to the men, in saying how highly I approve of his recipes 
 and arrangements for carrying out his scheme of camp cookery. 
 
 (Signed) H. J. Daniell, 
 
 Col. and Cajpt. in Command , First Battalion 
 Coldstream Guards. 
 
 The regiments being at that time greatly reduced, 
 were only 428 strong, therefore the weight of meat, at 
 one pound per man, was 428 pounds, from which 42 
 pounds of excellent fat were obtained, much preferable 
 for cooking purposes to the rancid butter sold in the 
 canteens at a very high price. As I was anxious to form 
 a perfect regimental kitchen, I proposed to Colonel 
 Daniell to fit up one for his regiment. His men were 
 already well acquainted with the use of the field stoves; 
 and it would serve as a model for all. Colonel Daniell 
 agreed, and in less than an hour the stoves were removed 
 to the camp, where they remained by sanction of the 
 General-in-Chief till the end of the war. 
 
 At this time I went to head- quarters, and urged the 
 necessity of telegraphing an order for four hundred small 
 field- stoves, which order had been agreed upon in case 
 my plan succeeded and was adopted by the authorities.. 
 I also had several interviews with General Airey, upon 
 the subject. This number was sufficient for the supply 
 of the whole of the army then in the Crimea. As there 
 was so much business at head-quarters in consequence 
 of the anticipated attack upon Sebastopol, the order was 
 postponed for a few days. 
 
864 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 THE EIGHTH OE SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Trip to Kamiesch — Bornet’s love for war — Dangerous quarters — 
 Arrival at Kamiesch — Town of pasteboard — The 8th of September 
 — Orders for the assault — Carousals — Looking on — Stopped by 
 the sentinels — Get by at last — The batteries open fire — The French 
 flag on the Malaklioff — Wounded men— The officer’s wife — Naval 
 officers trying to dodge the sentries — Become my guests — 
 Reports respecting General Wyndham — Cathcart’s Hill — The 
 Duke of Newcastle — Dine with General Wyndham on the day 
 of the attack upon Sebastopol — Sir John Campbell and the 
 French cook — An excellent dinner — Rare autographs — General 
 Wyndham summoned to head-quarters. 
 
 Early on the 3rd of September we started for Kamiesch ; 
 but, as usual, Bornet could not forget his old trade, and 
 love for his fellow-soldiers. “ Governor,” said he, “the 
 3rd Zouaves who were on duty in the trenches last 
 night are on their return to camp. It is eight o'clock, 
 and if we take this ravine we shall meet some of them, 
 and learn what is going on." 
 
 Having the whole day before us, I consented to go ; 
 we took the road called the French Ravine, which led 
 from the French head-quarters to the trenches before 
 Sebastopol. The returning Zouaves we met, but the 
 cannon balls also met us. Being in the ravine, we were 
 not in great danger, as they passed over our heads and 
 fell on our left side. The principal danger was when 
 they struck a large stone, causing it to roll down the 
 side of the ravine, sometimes at a terrific rate. 
 
 The shells were far more objectionable ; but, thanks to 
 Providence, none hit us. While retreating, Bornet said, 
 “By a thousand bombs, governor, it must be a fresh 
 battery they are firing from : we always used to go this 
 way to the trenches." 
 
 “Well," said I, “new or old, let us get out of it." 
 
KAMIESCH DESCRIBED. 
 
 365 
 
 Patting' our horses to a gallop, we were soon out of 
 danger, and on the road to Kamiesch. Near the French 
 head-quarters we met two Zouaves. They told us the 
 French trenches were now within twenty yards of the 
 Malakhoff tower. “ The cannon,” they said, “project 
 about twenty feet over our heads, and cannot touch us ; 
 hut the grenades, which the Russians throw among us 
 by hundreds, cause the loss of many men, though we 
 extinguish a great number when they fall.” 
 
 Bornet now proposed the vin blanc , but to his regret 
 and my delight, they refused, or we should probably not 
 have seen Kamiesch that day. In many instances I have 
 known French soldiers refuse. 
 
 At length we arrived at Kamiesch, which I had so long 
 seen from my quarters, but could not reach before, owing 
 to the engrossing nature of my occupations. This French 
 town of pasteboard, or light wood, was so different from 
 Balaklava, that I cannot give my readers a better idea of 
 it than by stating that it bears the same resemblance to 
 Balaklava that Ramsgate does to Boulogne in the height 
 of the season. The traffic, business, markets, restaurants, 
 cafes, billiard-rooms, theatre, &c., display the difference 
 of character between the French and English, as forcibly 
 as Balaklava does the English from the French. 
 
 It was really remarkable to see the type of two great 
 nations, such near neighbours, on the same foreign soil, 
 so far from their native homes, so distinctly preserved,, 
 while the people agreed so well together. Some of the 
 restaurants were pretty good, very expensive, not very 
 clean, but always full. Money seemed of no consequence, 
 as every one tried to get it out of you if you were rash 
 enough to eat, drink, or purchase anything. 
 
 The sea-port was very fine ; Kamiesch, flat, sandy, 
 and unpicturesque. Balaklava was a perfect garden ; 
 Kamiesch a well populated desert. 
 
 The evening of the 7th of September was a memorable 
 one. Each mind was animated ; men of the most paci- 
 fic disposition were transformed into lions or tigers, 
 furiously seeking to devour their prey. 
 
 Amidst the most terrible discharges of cannon, the 
 order for the general attack was announced to the troops 
 
366 
 
 ORDER, EOR THE ASSAULT. 
 
 for the following clay. The news acted like an electric 
 spark, and inspired all hearts. Each soldier appeared to 
 breathe more freely; hope, the enchantress, filled the 
 hearts of the brave with enthusiasm ; fear was unknown ; 
 all faces were radiant with lust of glory and vengeance. 
 
 Having heard that the attack was to take place, at 
 midday I visited the French camp with my Zouave, where 
 we found the same animation and excitement. One of 
 the soldiers said to my Zouave : 
 
 “ By all the camels in Arabia, Bornet, are you coming 
 to join in the dance? If you are, I invite you for the 
 first quadrille; but you must play the clarionet (slang 
 term for gun) . Here’s a chance of having your portrait 
 spoiled — it just suits me.” 
 
 “ What do you think of it, governor — shall I go ?” 
 
 “ It is impossible, my dear fellow, for me to oblige 
 you upon this occasion, as your services will be more 
 useful to-morrow, when no doubt, whichever way the 
 victory may turn, the hospitals will be full. Therefore 
 I hope you will forgive me for saving your life against 
 your will. I am sure, if you had a chance, you would be 
 the first to mount the breach, and consequently the first 
 to be knocked over.” 
 
 His late comrades in arms did not see the force of this. 
 They knew he had some money, and did not like to part 
 with him. The idea struck me to order a few bottles of 
 wine at the canteen near their tents, in return for their 
 hospitality in offering us their ration rum and brandy. 
 About five-and-twenty more joined us when I gave the 
 invitation. I knew that Bornet had only a few shillings 
 in his pocket, which shillings, by-the-bye, were very 
 liberally taken by the vivandiere as a great favour, at 
 the value of a French franc. After several farewells we 
 parted. 
 
 The morning of the 8th of September, 1855, arrived. 
 Aurora smiled gaily upon the far-famed city, the sen- 
 tinels on all sides were at their posts, and in the Russian 
 camp no doubt the watchword circulated as usual. It 
 was thus in the allied camps, but pronounced quicker ; 
 the step of the relief guard was that of quick march, 
 every nerve was in action, and strained to the utmost. 
 
OFF TO THE SCENE OF ACTION. 
 
 387 
 
 The scene at the race for the Derby alone eonlcl give the 
 reader an idea of the sudden energy which filled every 
 bosom, on hearing that the attack was to take place, 
 with this difference, that life seemed of less consequence 
 to every one in the Crimea than the loss of money on 
 that terrible day of chance. All had a share in the 
 lottery. Glory was to turn the wheel of fortune, and 
 eveiy one seemed sure of winning. All hoped to gather 
 laurels from the arid soil so long moistened with 
 blood. 
 
 At four o’clock we were all up ; about five the Guards 
 were on their march towards the besieged city ; troops 
 from all quarters were silently marching in the same 
 direction ; every heart was beating high ; the day had 
 at last arrived which was to decide a great question. At 
 seven all were at their post. Bornet and myself started 
 on horseback directly, after seeing the Scots Fusiliers 
 pass through the Guards’ camp, close to our tents. On 
 catching sight of them, my Zouave exclaimed, “What a 
 splendid regiment, gonverneur, que ces Montagnards 
 Ecossais ! I have a great mind to follow them : I 
 shall, too !” 
 
 “I am sure you sha’n’t,” said I, clutching him by the 
 coat collar. 
 
 After making a long detour, a sentinel let us pass. 
 As we were nearer the Woronzoff Road than the 
 Cathcart Hill Cemetery, we went in that direction, and 
 took up our position to witness the grand spectacle. For 
 some time a profound silence reigned amongst the troops, 
 who seemed as though they were buried in the trenches. 
 The weather, which had been fine the preceding days, 
 and even till sunrise on that eventful morning, suddenly 
 changed. In a short time the elements assumed a 
 threatening aspect, and a furious tempest raged in every 
 direction. A clouded sky had replaced the azure blue, 
 the fierce gusts of wind raised thick clouds of dust, which 
 rolled majestically towards us like a moving castle, blind- 
 ing eveiy one for a time. The cold air chilled every- 
 body, and was so violent that one could scarcely keep 
 one’s saddle, or see twenty yards in advance. Showers 
 of hail burst here and there over the now excited and 
 
368 
 
 THE BATTERIES OPEN EIRE. 
 
 infuriated camp and Sebastopol ; the scene of action was 
 almost invisible. It appeared as though the evil genius 
 of the storm had on that glorious day attached his 
 seal of destruction to that desecrated spot. Even the 
 sun ( Vami Soleil ), the world’s friend, seemed to fear to 
 face this scene of horror and desolation, and while 
 smiling upon the remainder of the mighty globe, had, 
 in appearance, withdrawn from the harrowed city of 
 Sebastopol. 
 
 Suddenly the batteries opened fire in every direction, 
 shaking the very soil on which we stood. Clouds of smoke 
 enveloped the besieged city. Not a thing could be seen or 
 heard but a continuous rolling noise similar to that of an 
 earthquake. All at once the noise ceased, and the rattle 
 of musketry was heard, with, at intervals, cannon and 
 mortar shot. By degrees, thanks to the heavy gale, the 
 atmosphere got clearer, and by the aid of a telescope one 
 could distinctly see the French flag floating from the 
 Malakhoff, and the troops mounting to the assault. An 
 hour had scarcely elapsed when the news was brought of 
 the capture of the Malakhoff by the French, and of the 
 Bedan by the English. Aides-de-camp were flying in 
 every direction ; and numbers of wounded were on their 
 way to the hospitals. W e quitted our post to go to the 
 General Hospital, in order to see whether our services 
 were required. As we were crossing the English camp, 
 a corpse was borne past us, carried by four soldiers. 
 Upon inquiry I learned, with sorrow, that it was the 
 body of Colonel H. B. Handcock, whom, a few days 
 before, I had had the pleasure of entertaining at my 
 kitchens, with his young and very interesting wife. 
 
 The latter had been an eye-witness of the assault, 
 and I was informed that, by the greatest imprudence, the 
 mutilated body of her husband had just been uncovered 
 before her. She fainted at the sight, and was borne to 
 her residence, where she lay for some time dangerously 
 ill. This will account for the sudden alteration in her 
 appearance before mentioned. 
 
 The fight still raged, the weather was a little calmer, and 
 we left the field of battle, intending to gallop at once to 
 the hospital. On reaching the line of sentries, we met two 
 
SEASONABLE RELIEF. 
 
 369 
 
 naval officers who were trying to pass, in order to obtain 
 a view of the action from Cathcart’s Hill. They were 
 having a rather warm discussion, the sentry doing his 
 duty by stopping them. I pulled up my horse, and told 
 them that unless they had an older from head-quarters 
 they could not pass. Though much vexed, they thanked 
 me, and submitted to the disappointment. I was about 
 leaving them, when I heard one say to the other — 
 
 “ What shall we do ? I would give any money for a 
 glass of wine or a cup of coffee.” 
 
 “ So would I,” said the other. “ Where is there a 
 Canteen, sentry?” 
 
 “ It would be of no use my telling you,” the sentry 
 replied, “ as they are all closed during the siege, or at 
 least for to-day, in order to prevent men left in the 
 camp from quitting their post. Several robberies were 
 perpetrated in camp upon former occasions.” 
 
 I overheard their conversation, in which they stated 
 that they had started without breakfast, and been a long 
 way round — nearly seven miles among the hills — and 
 had seen nothing after all, as the pickets would not let 
 them pass the line of Balaklava. 
 
 “ Gentlemen,” said I, “ if you will come with me to 
 my tent, I think I can keep you from starving, and have 
 no doubt you will fare there as well, if not better, than 
 in a Canteen. I can also give you a description of the 
 siege, having been an eyewitness of the same.” 
 
 They thanked me, and accepted my offer. On our way 
 to quarters, I recounted the melancholy death of Colonel 
 Handcock. My Zouave had by this time arrived — no one 
 but the groom was at home, and he could speak neither 
 Trench nor English, being a Greek — so I set my Zouave 
 to lay the table ; and with my magic stove I cooked some 
 ration-mutton, made an omelette, brought out a piece of 
 cold beef, bread, &c., and gave them a bottle of ale and a 
 glass of sherry. In twenty minutes their hunger was 
 appeased, and I told them they were welcome to stay, 
 but that I must proceed to my duty. At the same time 
 I informed them, that at six o’clock dinner would be 
 ready, and they were welcome to partake of it if they 
 
 B B 
 
370 
 
 AMIIVAL OE THE WOUNDED. 
 
 happened to be about the camp ; but that they were on 
 no account to wait for me in case I did not return, as I 
 did not know what I might have to do in the hospitals. 
 They thanked me for my hospitality, and said they 
 would try and see something of the battle, and if any- 
 where about my quarters, would be too happy to return 
 to dinner. 
 
 We then parted ; they proceeding towards Sebastopol, 
 and I to the hospital. On my arrival I found, to my 
 surprise, that not one wounded man had been brought in. 
 After waiting some time 1 saw Dr. Mouatt, and inquired 
 if anything extra was wanted ; his reply was, “ We have 
 all that is needed for their reception.” 
 
 I then went to the purveyor, and to the kitchen; but 
 fearing, as the battle was raging fiercely, the number of 
 wounded might exceed the means at their disposal, I 
 remained about the hospitals. I did this in case my 
 services might be required, as I was well aware of the 
 importance of speedy relief to the sufferers. 
 
 Towards evening the wounded began to arrive, though 
 not in great numbers. I left my Zouave there and 
 returned to the camp, telling him if anything was re- 
 quired, to ride home at once and inform me, as the 
 doctors would be so much engaged — and in particular 
 Dr. Mouatt, who would most probably not be able to 
 devote his time to the culinary department. As I rode 
 towards Sebastopol, to have another look at the battle, 
 I met only a few wounded. Upon inquiring of the order- 
 lies in charge whether there were many more, they 
 replied that they could not say, but they believed that 
 there were a great number. I then returned to my tent,, 
 and a few minutes afterwards my naval friends arrived. 
 The dinner was served up, and they told me that they 
 had had a good view of the besieged city from the French 
 lines. In the course of conversation, they informed me 
 that Colonel (now General) Wyndham had invited them 
 to dinner that day. I replied, “ I am very anxious about 
 him, as he led the storming party in the Redan, and I 
 have heard the attack has been very severe, and many 
 were killed and wounded on both sides.” I also heard 
 
THE HERO OF THE REDAN. 
 
 371 
 
 that it had been retaken by the Russians, and feared 
 he might have been taken prisoner, if not wounded or 
 killed. 
 
 When dinner was over, I proposed to pass them through 
 the lines and make inquiry about him. We proceeded to 
 Cathcart'sHill — it was then nearly dusk — I on horseback, 
 they on foot. The camp around us was as still and deserted 
 as in the morning ; scarcely any one was to be seen till 
 we reached the lines. Very few shots were heard, but 
 every one was at his post. Upon reaching Cathcart's 
 Hill, I alighted to speak with his Grace the Duke of New- 
 castle, who had been in the trenches all day and had just 
 returned. He was kind enough to give me the details of 
 the attacks on both sides, and said that he was waiting 
 for General Bentinck, who had not yet been seen, and 
 that he hoped nothing had happened to him. I observed, 
 “This is a most anxious hour for all who have friends 
 engaged in so serious and dangerous an encounter.” 
 While conversing with the Duke, I missed my two 
 companions. Thinking they knew the position of Colonel 
 Wyndham's quarters, I went there expecting to find 
 them. My first and most anxious inquiry of the servant, 
 who knew me well, was, “ What news of the Colonel ?” 
 “ Oh, all right. Monsieur Soyer,” he replied with 
 great satisfaction. “If you wish to see him, he is gone 
 to Colonel Wood's tent — you know where it is.” 
 
 “No I don't.” 
 
 “ Then I'll show you — he will be glad to see you.” 
 
 “ I will not trouble you, as I would not disturb him 
 on such a day for the world. I am glad to hear he is 
 safe ; but have you seen two gentlemen ?” 
 
 “No one excepting yourself, sir. You must come with 
 me ; my master is alone, waiting for the Colonel, and Dm 
 sure they will both be happy to see you.” 
 
 Colonel Wyndham had just changed his clothes before 
 going to the Colonel's to dine. His servant showed them, 
 to me; they were covered with blood and dust. I followed 
 him to Colonel Wood's hut, and found Colonel Wynd- 
 ham walking quickly to and fro in the hut, apparently 
 much preoccupied and excited. His eyes emitted flashes 
 
 b b 2 
 
372 
 
 A MEMORABLE DAY. 
 
 of fire, his open countenance had assumed its usual 
 majestic calm and dignity, his lips were parched, his 
 proud brow betokened much restlessness, and though his 
 forehead was covered with glory, you could perceive 
 through the wreath of laurel which had only a few hours 
 before been deposited there by Mars, a deep shadow of 
 thoughtfulness and care. His physiognomy told a tale. 
 Victory had of him made a great hero, without having 
 had time to put her final seal to his martial and petulant 
 ardour. Another battle was yet to be fought. 
 
 Seeing me, he came forward and shook me by the 
 hand, inviting me to enter. We were together about 
 half-an-hour, and he related to me the great events of 
 the attack upon the Redan, now so well known to the 
 public. Colonel Wood came in, also free from wounds, 
 to the delight of all, and invited me to dine with them. 
 I told him that I had already dined, but could not refuse 
 the honour upon so memorable an occasion. 
 
 We then sat down to dinner. Francois,* the Colonel's 
 French cook, with whose culinary capacities I was well 
 
 # He related the following anecdote of something that had passed 
 between him and Sir John Campbell, on the eve of the attack of the 
 18th of J une. Sir John had for some time inquired after him, and at 
 last meeting him going to his master’s quarters, called out and said, 
 “ Francis, how much am I in your debt?” 
 
 “ Why, Colonel, it is only the middle of the month ; I will give 
 you your small bill at the end.” 
 
 “ No, no,” said Sir John, “ I want it now, Francois.” 
 
 “ Have I offended you, Colonel ?” 
 
 “ Offended me, no ! on the contrary, I am much obliged to you for 
 your kind services ; but the end of this month may be to-morrow for 
 me, as we shall have a terrible attack upon the Redan ; so I want to 
 settle all my little affairs to-day.” 
 
 “ Oh, I’m sure, General, it will be all right.” 
 
 “ Indeed I must have it — how much does it amount to ?” 
 
 “ Well, General, if I must, I must — it is one pound seventeen, 
 or somewhere thereabouts.” 
 
 The General wished him good night, and with a smile upon his 
 countenance returned to his cave, and Francois to his duty. That 
 noble-hearted man seemed to have a presentiment that he should 
 not survive the attack. The tears stood in his eyes while he was 
 relating this to me, and I found my own in much the same state in 
 listening to the recital. 
 
MAKE A NOTE OE IT. 
 
 373 
 
 acquainted, having* dined several times with the Colonel, 
 told me he never felt less interest, or prepared a dinner 
 with so much reluctance, fearing no one would return to 
 eat it after such a sanguinary battle. Highly delighted 
 was he when Colonel Wyndham came in, and more 
 so when he found that his excellent governor (as he 
 called him) had returned safe and sound. Every officer 
 in the camp knew Fran£ois, and the Colonels table got 
 quite in repute through the exertions of this culinary 
 disciple of Vattel. He used to go to the trenches, leaving 
 his own batteries to brave those of the enemy, and all 
 this for the comfort of his excellent governor. He was 
 much liked by all, and always had a budget of anecdotes, 
 some of them very interesting. He had lived as cook and 
 major domo for several years with Madame Grisi. The 
 last time I saw him he was in daily expectation of the 
 Sebastopol medal. 
 
 The dinner was served, but I must say it was not so 
 recherche as on former occasions ; it seemed to have been 
 prepared for sick epicures, or at least those who hovered 
 between life and death. The conversation upon the 
 events of the day was so animated that no one but 
 myself perceived the difference. The Colonel's excellent 
 wine was highly relished, and in drinking the health of 
 Colonels Wyndham and Wood, I requested the former 
 to make a note of the fact that I had the honour of 
 dining with him and Colonel Wood a few hours after 
 the battle, as probably no one would credit it. This the 
 Colonel immediately did, and Colonel Wood added his 
 autograph, of which the following is a copy r : — 
 
 8 th September, 1855, 9 p.m. 
 
 I had the pleasure, after my return from leading the storming 
 party of the 2nd Division to the Redan, of dining with Colonel D. 
 Wood, and meeting at dinner Monsieur Soyer. 
 
 D. Wood, C. A. Wyndham, 
 
 Lieut. -Col. Commanding , Col. Commanding , 
 
 B.A. 4itk Division. 2nd Battalion . 
 
 They had hardly signed this when a loud knock was 
 heard at the door, and an orderly entered with a dispatch 
 from General Simpson, who wished to see Colonel 
 
374 
 
 RETURN TO QUARTERS. 
 
 Wyndham directly. The Colonel lost no time in attend- 
 ing to his commander’s orders, and we mounted our 
 horses and started for head-quarters. “ An immediate 
 attack on the Redan is what I shall recommend to the 
 General-in-Chief’ were the last words uttered by the 
 Colonel before leaving the hut. The firing had 
 ceased ; the night was very dark, but the weather calm. 
 It was with great difficulty we found our way through 
 the camps, which appeared very silent after such a 
 stormy day and day of storm. In about a quarter of an 
 hour Colonel Wyndham observed, “ Monsieur Soyer, I 
 believe you are close to your quarters,” pointing to 
 several lights. “ There,” said he, “is the Guards’ 
 camp.” I wished him good evening, and we separated. 
 
 My Zouave had not returned from the hospital, but 
 shortly after made his appearance rather intoxicated. He 
 related all that he had seen, and said that a few wounded 
 Russians had been brought to the hospitals. “ They have 
 all they require,” said he ; “ and, in case of need, I told 
 a man to call us up.” When he had put everything in 
 order, he said, “ I’ll keep watch,” and commenced sing- 
 ing his favourite songs. He made so much noise that we 
 could not sleep if we had wished to do so, especially as 
 the soldier-cooks and servants joined him in chorus. 
 
CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 FALL OF THE DOOMED CITY. 
 
 Sad scenes — Ride to Cathcart’s Hill — Glorious news — Animated 
 groups — First spoils — Refreshment for the wounded — Chloroform 
 — Dinner at the Carlton — Sebastopol in flames — A night expedi- 
 tion — Letter to Messrs. Routledge — Visit to Sebastopol — 
 Russian fare — Poisoned bread — Culinary trophies — Interior of 
 the Malakhoff — Bornet’s funeral oration over a dead comrade — 
 The Russian hospital — Harrowing scenes. 
 
 Two days before I had been invited to dine with 
 Colonel de Bathe, in order to partake of a Crimean fat 
 goose. Though disappointed of my dinner, I was anxious 
 to know if anything had happened to him and his brave 
 companions in arms, and I therefore went round the 
 camp and visited the Coldstream and Fusilier Guards. 
 Many had not returned. Those off duty had retired to 
 rest, which can be easily understood after the fatigues of 
 such a day. I therefore returned, and laid down for a 
 few hours. About four in the morning I went to the 
 hospital, and found that every ward would soon be en- 
 cumbered with sick and wounded. The cooks over- 
 fatigued, having been up all night at work. I at once 
 proposed to furnish Dr. Mouatt with what he required, 
 provided the purveyor would send the provisions to the 
 Guards 5 camp. The doctor thanked me for the offer, 
 and gave an immediate order to that effect. My Zouave 
 had brought me a cross, which had been worn by a Rus- 
 sian officer who was killed. I presented it to one of the 
 prisoners, who kissed it fervently and passed it to his 
 comrades. There were about fifteen of them. No dif- 
 ference was made in the attendance or care bestowed 
 upon them and that shown to our own troops, though 
 not less than four or five hundred were in the hospital at 
 the time, and more were coming in. Such a scene of 
 
376 
 
 SCENE FROM CATH CARTES HILL. 
 
 suffering can never be effaced from memory, and is not to 
 be described. 
 
 While waiting for the provisions, I galloped as far as 
 Cath cart's Hill, and was much surprised to find that hos- 
 tilities had entirely ceased. I met Colonel Steele just 
 returning from the Redan. 
 
 “ It's all over, Monsieur Soyer,” said he. 
 
 “ What do you mean, Colonel ?'' I replied. 
 
 “ The Russians have retreated and abandoned Sebas- 
 topol ! I have just been in the Redan, which exhibits a 
 fearful scene. The loss has been great on all sides.” 
 
 He then left in a great hurry, saying he must return to 
 head-quarters and telegraph the news to the War-office. 
 A few houses were burning, and thick smoke was issuing 
 from various parts of the city. Some of the Russian 
 ships were burning in the bay. The weather was as calm 
 as it had been boisterous the day before. Amongst the 
 group upon the hill were the l)uke of Newcastle, Mr. 
 Russell, and a few others, not above twenty in all. Our 
 attention was attracted by the arrival of a soldier with 
 the first spoils of the conquered city. These consisted of 
 two chairs, a dressing table and a looking-glass. He also 
 carried a hare in one hand. On being asked where he 
 got these various articles, he answered, “ From the city. 
 The French troops are plundering, and not a Russian is 
 to be found. Yet the place is very dangerous, as explo- 
 sions are continually taking place/' 
 
 Shortly alter, a long train of wounded, carried on 
 mules, was seen going towards the General Hospital, 
 amongst whom were a number of Russians. The cortege 
 was followed by about twenty Russian prisoners; and I 
 could not help remarking the youthful appearance of the 
 latter, their age not exceeding from eighteen to twenty- 
 five. This, 1 concluded, was owing to the immense 
 number the enemy must have lost during the campaign. 
 
 My Zouave had, unknown to me, left on an expedition 
 to the city. Although much against my will, it was 
 impossible to stop him. My endeavours to impress upon 
 his mind the importance of remaining with me upon that 
 occasion were of no avail. 
 
SAD SIGHTS. 
 
 377 
 
 On returning to the camp I prepared a quantity of 
 lemonade, arrowroot, beet-tea, arrowroot- water, barley- 
 water, rice-water and pudding, boiled rice, &c., and 
 through the kindness of Colonel Daniell and Major Fiel- 
 den, twelve men were sent to carry them to the hospitals. 
 I spent the remainder of the day in the hospitals, which 
 were situated about a mile from the Guards* camp, where I 
 witnessed the most painful scenes and numerous ampu- 
 tations. Amongst those operated upon were several Rus- 
 sians. I could not help remarking what a blessing to 
 the sufferer chloroform proved. Wonderful was the 
 kindness and celerity with which the doctors performed 
 the operations. These were so numerous that before 
 night several buckets were filled with the limbs, and the 
 greater part of those operated upon were doing well. 
 The hospitals, although they contained nearly forty 
 wards, were full. Some of our wounded, as well as the 
 Russians, were placed under marquees and other tents. 
 The wounds received by some of the Russians were 
 fearful, and the groans of those who were mortally 
 wounded awful. Having done all that was required at 
 the hospital I returned to the camp, where an invitation 
 awaited me to dine at the Carlton Club. This I was 
 much pleased to accept. The painful scenes I had wit- 
 nessed weighed heavily upon the heart and mind, and a 
 little relaxation became necessary. At about eight o’clock 
 I repaired to the appointed place, and eight or nine 
 guests sat down. 
 
 The dinner was very good ; and though the bill of fare 
 was rather extensive, every dish was cleared. Was this 
 due to the skill of the chef de cuisine , or to the sixteen 
 hours of hard work in the trenches ? If the latter was 
 really the cause of this, I should recommend a blase 
 epicure, who has lost his appetite, to try this simple and 
 effective process. It will not fail to succeed — that is, 
 should he escape with life after sixteen hours of shoot- 
 ing or being shot at, like pigeons at the Red House. 
 The conversation became very animated, and so inte- 
 resting that a small pamphlet might be written upon it. 
 All had seen something and had something to relate. 
 
378 
 
 SEBASTOPOL IN FLAMES. 
 
 My description of the hospitals was the great feature of 
 the evening, as none present had seen them, having other 
 occupation at their posts with the various regiments. 
 The Queen’s health, that of the Emperor of the French, 
 and of the Sultan, were toasted with three times three 
 and one more cheer. In the midst of this, Buckingham ! ! 
 the renowned Buckingham ! ! ! who had displayed all his 
 savoirfaire in the service de table , acting upon that occa- 
 sion as maUre d’ hotel en chef, with a few utensils made 
 a display worthy of a first-rate a la mode beef house, 
 nothing to be laughed at in a Crimean popotte, rushed 
 into the tent, crying “ Colonel ! Colonel ! the whole of 
 Sebastopol is in flames.” It was true. In less than ten 
 minutes streets had taken fire with the rapidity of a 
 firework, and every minute the conflagration seemed 
 to be upon the increase. Nothing but tire and smoke 
 could be seen from the Guards’ camp. I proposed that 
 we should order our horses and go to Cathcart’s Hill to 
 see what was going on. To my surprise, no one seemed 
 inclined to move. They all said that they had had 
 enough of Sebastopol, and were tired to death. On 
 urging the matter, the only answer I got from some of 
 my gallant friends was, “ Not to-night. Monsieur Soyer, 
 not to-night.” 
 
 t( Surely,” said I, “ gentlemen ! you don’t expect the 
 Russians will set a Sebastopol on fire every day at a few 
 hours’ notice to please you.” 
 
 “ That is not likely,” said Major Fielden ; “ but for all 
 that I feel convinced that no one will go.” 
 
 As the fire seemed to extend and the sky became one 
 lurid mass, I determined to go and get a sight of it. I 
 bade my companions adieu, went back to my tent, ordered 
 my horse, and tried to awake my Zouave in order to 
 take him with me. He was so intoxicated I could not 
 succeed. He had spent the day with some of his 
 comrades, and completely lost his senses. As I could not 
 find either groom or any of my men, I went to Mr. 
 Mesnil’s tent. My major domo being an old campaigner, 
 had as usual turned in all dressed to be ready for any 
 contingency. Rousing him, I requested him to accom- 
 
A NIGHT EXPEDITION. 
 
 379 
 
 pany me. The eternal reply of “Not to-night” was 
 again heard. 
 
 “ Oh, hang the place, let it burn,” said he. 
 
 As this was my last resource, I would not leave him. 
 At last, in no very kindly mood, he turned out and 
 agreed to go. The night was pitch dark, so we preferred 
 going on foot. My friend was armed with a Russian 
 sword and a night glass ; I with a poignard -revolver and 
 a lanthorn. Our intention was to get as near the city 
 as possible, and we were prepared for any unpleasant 
 encounter by firelight instead of moonlight. The purlieus 
 of the camp were at this period anything but safe. With 
 much difficulty, we reached Cathcartfs Hill, having lost 
 our way in trying what we thought would be a short 
 cut. The camp was silent, and apparently deserted. 
 Although only eleven o’clock, we did not meet a soul, 
 with the exception of sentries, on our way. 
 
 So sublime was the scene witnessed by us from the 
 summit of Cathcart’s Hill, that it induced me, in my 
 business correspondence with my publishers, Messrs. 
 Routledge and Co., to- forward them the following de- 
 scriptive letter of the extraordinary effects this monstrous 
 scene produced upon my senses. It has already appeared, 
 I believe, in the public prints. 
 
 Flagstaff \ CathcarV s Fill , near Sebastopol , 
 
 9 th September, 1855. 
 
 Gentlemen, — Sebastopol has fallen, and almost every part of its 
 superstructure is in flames. From the very spot I write, I can dis- 
 tinctly enumerate at least fourteen different conflagrations. The 
 sight is at once sublime and terrific. A Martin or a Dan by alone could 
 trace on canvas, with their vigorous tints and their wild genius, the 
 stupendous scene which my eyes are now beholding. The incessant 
 roaring of the cannon, the explosion of shells, the blowing of the 
 trumpet, the beating of drums, mingled with the groaning of the 
 wounded and the anxious bustling of myriads of souls — adding to 
 this the most tempestuous hurricane, the coldness of the weather, 
 falling of hailstones, and the previously forest- like clouds of dust 
 springing out from the harrowed Crimean soil, which raged during 
 the whole of yesterday over the Allies’ camps, have suddenly given 
 place to the most profound calm and glowing breeze. The semi- 
 defunct city and all the camps are as silent as the graves by which. 
 
380 
 
 YISIT TO SEBASTOPOL. 
 
 I am now surrounded. Ten yards from here lie the remains of the 
 immortal Cathcart, encircled by several of his noble companions in 
 arms. From half-past eleven to this present time, two a.m., not a 
 living creature, save myself and a friend, besides the picket-sentinel, 
 has been here to witness, from this remarkable spot, the downfall 
 of the venerated Russian city. 
 
 With the highest consideration, I have the honour to be, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 A. Soyee. 
 
 By the aid of the night-glass we obtained so good a 
 view that we did not deem it advisable to proceed further. 
 The heat of the fire was felt even at that distance, and 
 explosions were frequent. The cause of the solitude in 
 the camp at that hour can only be attributed to the 
 excessive fatigue consequent upon the tremendous ex- 
 ertions of the previous day; the curtain had fallen on 
 this grand drama — all was repose. We then returned to 
 quarters through the same mournful solitude, not having 
 met a soul either going or returning. This dreariness 
 impressed me with the idea of chaos, after the destruction 
 of a world and its empires. 
 
 Early the following morning, attended by my Zouave, 
 who had recovered his sober senses, I started for the 
 General Hospital. 
 
 We saw about thirty dead bodies laid out in a row, 
 and stitched up in their blankets, with their name and 
 nation marked upon each. I believe there was not a 
 single case of amputation amongst them ; they had all 
 been mortally wounded. This speaks volumes in favour 
 of the use of chloroform, the efficacy and safety of which, 
 for a time, was much doubted, even by eminent medical 
 men. Amputations were still being performed with skill 
 and celerity worthy of a Guthrie or an Astley Cooper. 
 The principal medical men were Drs. Mouatt, Lyons, 
 &c. &c., who appeared to vie with each other in their 
 kind attention to the sufferers. 
 
 Perceiving that nothing further was required for 
 the present, and that all was going on well, I went 
 to visit Sebastopol. My Zouave knew the road, as he 
 had been there the day before. Our first visit was to the 
 Bedan, where we were refused admission. My intrepid 
 
RUSSIAN RARE. 
 
 381 
 
 Zouave, not contented with this rebuff, took me round 
 another wav, and, leaving our horses outside, we scaled 
 the works and got in. The scene of death and destruc- 
 tion here was awful, and has been described tbo often for 
 me to dwell upon it. Nothing but the effects of a devas- 
 tating earthquake can give any one an idea of the debris 
 of the interior, or of the destruction caused by the fire of 
 the Allies, and the explosions that had ensued. We pro- 
 ceeded to the city by the Arsenal, on the British side. 
 The town was still burning. On reaching the large 
 barracks, we visited the kitchens and bakeries. In the 
 former, some of the boilers contained cabbage-soup ; 
 others, a kind uf porridge made with black flour. In 
 the bakeries, loaves of bread were still in the ovens, and 
 dough in the troughs. We removed a loaf from the oven 
 and tasted it. As we had brought no provision with us, 
 and there was none to be obtained in the burning city, 
 we ate about half a pound of bread each, and finished our 
 frugal repast with a good draught of water : the latter 
 was retailed at the small charge of sixpence a pint. A 
 quarter of an hour after, I looked my Zouave hard in the 
 face, saying, as I placed my hand upon my stomach, with 
 a rueful face and in a piteous tone of voice — 
 
 “Bless me, Bornet ! do you feel anything wrong ? — 
 because, if you don’t, I do !” Looking still more pitiful, 
 I continued — “ I am confident the bread has been 
 poisoned !” 
 
 “ The deuce it has !” he replied, turning pale, and 
 putting his fingers in his throat in order to throw off 
 the dreadful meal, but without success. 
 
 I laughed at him, and called him a coward. 
 
 “ Coward !” said he ; “ no, no, governor, I am no 
 -coward. I should not mind a round-shot, sword, or 
 bayonet wound, in the field of battle ; but, by Jupiter ! to 
 be poisoned ingloriously like a dog, would be base in the 
 extreme.” 
 
 “ You’re right,” said I. “ Come, don’t fear, let's go 
 and taste the soupe-aux-ehoux.” 
 
 To this invitation he most decidedly objected, saying, 
 “No more of their relishes for me, if you please.” 
 
382 
 
 CULINARY TROPHIES. 
 
 In my culinary ardour I tasted it, and found it ex- 
 tremely bad and entirely deprived of nutritious qualities, 
 but no doubt in it was to be added some black bread 
 which would improve it. 
 
 Among the culinary trophies we brought away, were 
 a long iron fork, a ladle, some of the dough, biscuits, and 
 a large piece of the black bread taken from the oven. I 
 intended to test its merits upon my return to the camp. 
 After visiting the docks, in which the vessels were 
 still burning, as well as some in the harbour, we went 
 to the Malakhoff, at the foot of which lay a number of 
 dead bodies and horses. I met several acquaintances* 
 and, on obtaining permission, visited the tower and 
 its interior. The scene here was the same as at the 
 Redan — one of destruction and desolation, though this 
 place was not so much knocked about — but none 
 could fail to appreciate the talent and skill displayed 
 by the Russians in their style of fortification. The 
 electric wires connected with the mines had been dis- 
 covered and cut, rendering our visit comparatively safe. 
 The men were busy burying the dead in all directions. 
 My Zouave drew me towards the Black Battery, by 
 which the division Bosquet had so severely suffered 
 in valiantly defending their position. On arriving there* 
 he recognised the dead body of one of his late comrades* 
 and he implored me to allow him to remain till it was 
 buried. As it was getting dark, and it was not probable 
 that they would bury him that evening, I promised to 
 allow him to return in the morning. Looking pitifully at 
 the corpse, he said — 
 
 “Poor Adrien, what fun we had in Algeria ! and now 
 you are dead.” Stooping down over the body and kissing 
 it on both cheeks, he continued — “To-morrow I will 
 return and perform the last sad duty of a friend. Look, 
 governor, would you not think he smiles ? He was such a 
 fine fellow — I am sure his soul has gone straight to 
 head-quarters.” 
 
 It was almost dark, and we galloped home. The next 
 morning my Zouave attended the funeral of his friend* 
 and it took so long that I did not see him again for 
 
A COMIC EXCUSE. 
 
 383 
 
 forty-eight hours. When he returned, he brought two 
 Zouaves with him, and they were all laden with trophies; 
 among them was an entirely new tent, which, from its 
 very superior quality, was supposed to have belonged to 
 some general officer. The Zouaves had pitched upon 
 Prince OrlofF as the owner, no doubt to increase its 
 value. It really was worthy of a commander-in-chief. I 
 purchased it, and have it still in my possession. The rest 
 of the booty consisted of guns, swords, church relics, &c. 
 — in fact, all they could lay hands upon which was likely 
 to be converted into money. The only thing which sur- 
 prised me was, that he had returned sober. While I was 
 reprimanding him for his long absence, he coolly replied — 
 
 “ You are right, governor ; but you see, after paying 
 the last duties to poor Adrien, in order to drown the 
 melancholy feeling of human existence, I got boosy 
 enough to make all the wine-sellers, and even old Father 
 Bacchus himself, turn pale. When I began to find that I 
 could no longer see, I said to myself, 6 Bornet, ray friend, 
 you must not disgrace the governor’s quarters. Go to bed 
 upon the straw like a pig as you are.’ In ten hours my 
 drunken fit had passed away like a vaporous cloud; and 
 here, governor, is your Zouave, in a fit state, ready to 
 dance upon a rope without a balance-pole.” 
 
 The original and comic nature of the excuse caused me 
 to laugh at him, instead of scolding him. 
 
 He then proposed to go in the evening and find the 
 remaining part of Count OrlofF’s tent, spend the night 
 in Sebastopol, and meet me the next morning at the 
 Greek church in the town. 
 
 All was going on well at the General Hospital. It 
 was crammed full, and amputations were being per- 
 formed night and day. I called there daily with some of 
 my men, and sent the others in various directions. The 
 next day I visited Sebastopol, and went to the French 
 side. I could not find Bornet, but saw one of his friends, 
 who told me that he had slept in the French camp. I 
 therefore gave him up, and determined to get rid of him 
 as soon as possible. After visiting the town in company 
 with a few friends whom I happened to meet there, we 
 
384 
 
 THE RUSSIAN HOSPITAL. 
 
 went to the Russian hospital, which we had been told was 
 full of dead, sick, and wounded. During the few days that 
 had elapsed since the capture of the city I had witnessed 
 many awful scenes, but this was the most harrowing 
 of all. 
 
 Perhaps one of the most awful and sickening sights 
 possible for humanity to conjure up was witnessed by 
 myself and many others in the Russian hospital in the in- 
 terior of Sebastopol. Piled up one on the other, or lying 
 singly on the bare flooring, were strewn hundreds of 
 Russians, dead and dying. The view would have struck 
 terror into the heart of the greatest stoic. These men 
 seemed to have been placed here out of the way to suffer 
 and die, uncared for, unattended. On one side might be 
 seen a poor creature writhing in the last throes of disso- 
 lution; on the other, a fine fellow with almost divine 
 resignation, who had just rendered himself up to his 
 Maker, having died in dreadful agony. Men without 
 legs or arms, and some with frightful body wounds or 
 bayonet thrusts, lay huddled in helpless confusion. 
 Desolation and death grimly met us at each step. Then 
 the effluvia arising from the bodies was horrible beyond 
 description. 
 
385 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 ILLNESS AND CHANGE OE SCENE. 
 
 Business suspended — Holiday-time for the cooks — Breakfast in the 
 Malakhoff — Transferred to the Mamelon Yert — Attack of Crimean 
 fever — Kind attentions — Relapse — An unexpected visitor and a 
 conversation — Laughable incident — Trip to Scutari — Captain 
 Brown of the Imperador — Fellow-travellers — Fame in America 
 — Brigadier- General Storks — Consolations — Bornet’s considera- 
 tion — His farewell — Soyer House — Third illness — Severe attack 
 of dysentery — Recovery — Grand ball at the English Embassy— 
 The Sultan attends — “Elizabeth Quadrilles” — Arrival of my 
 field-stoves — Off again to the Crimea — Letters suggesting im- 
 provements in the hospitals. 
 
 For a few days all business seemed suspended in the 
 camp, and the rage with every one was to visit the ruins 
 of the far-famed city. The hospitals in the camp and at 
 Balaklava were quite full, though most of the patients 
 were going on very satisfactorily. Much bustle was 
 observed at both the French and English head-quarters. 
 As the soup was no longer required for the soldiers in 
 the trenches, the order for the field-stoves remained some 
 time in abeyance, and all appeared like holiday time. In 
 fact, people kept flocking, with and without permission, 
 into Sebastopol. Deeming this a favourable opportunity, 
 I proposed giving a dejeuner in the Malakhoff two days 
 after its capture, and cooking it with my magic bivouac - 
 stove. Among the guests invited were Colonels Daniell, 
 De Bathe; Brigadier Drummond; Majors Fielden, Arm i- 
 tage; Captain Tower, &c. &c. We were to muster about 
 twelve ; the great dish was to be the jpoulets sautes a la 
 Malakhoff, cooked on my pocket bivouac-stove in the open 
 air. All was prepared, and we were about to start, when 
 I learnt that we should not be allowed to enter the tower. 
 Colonel Daniell, who had some business at head-quarters, 
 
 c c 
 
386 
 
 ATTACK OF FEVER. 
 
 promised to try and obtain permission. I at once went 
 to General Pelissier for the order, which could not be 
 granted in his absence. I saw General Rose, who said 
 any other day he should be happy to make the request. 
 The appetites of my invited guests were sharpened and 
 the stomachs waiting, and they would have grumbled 
 had they not been satisfied. We therefore agreed that 
 in lieu of having it in the Malakhoff, we should make 
 ourselves satisfied with the Mamelon Vert a la Carleton ; 
 and a very jovial reunion we made of it. Alas ! it was the 
 last I was destined to enjoy for some time. 
 
 Seven or eight days after, I was laid up with a very 
 severe attack of Crimean fever. Not being aware of the 
 nature of my illness, I thought rest was all I required, 
 after the fatigue I had undergone : I therefore went to 
 bed — but what kind of bed ? — under damp canvas, with a 
 muddy floor, as it had rained heavily for some days. I felt 
 so ill, that I could neither lie, sit, nor stand, without great 
 suffering. Imagining that I could conquer the disease, 
 I did not send for the doctor. Fortunately for me, a 
 short time after my attack, as I lay in bed. Dr. Linton, 
 who often visited me, chanced to call at my tent. I told 
 him of my indisposition, and he at once sent me some 
 medicine, more blankets, and kindly offered his services ; 
 at the same time informing me that I had a serious 
 attack of fever. I was in the Coldstreams* camp ; and Dr. 
 Wyatt claimed me as his patient, and paid me a visit. 
 He immediately ordered me to keep my bed. For some 
 days he watched my case most diligently, and under his 
 skilful care I soon got better. During my illness I 
 received visits and kind inquiries from almost all the 
 heads of the forces, for which I shall ever feel grateful ; 
 their attention was most gratifying to my feelings, and 
 I am proud of the consideration evinced for me by that 
 noble band, the British army. 
 
 Directly I recovered and was allowed to go about, 
 I felt anxious to have a decided answer respecting the 
 stoves — for the matter was at that time in abeyance. I 
 also wished to visit the various regimental hospitals in 
 which my men were engaged teaching the soldiers. In 
 
A HE LAPSE- 
 
 387 
 
 my eagerness to attend to these things, I overfatigued 
 myself*, and brought on a second attack, much worse 
 than the former. Dr. Wyatt was almost in despair, and 
 privately informed Mr. Mesnil that I was in great 
 danger. However, owing entirely to his great care and 
 kind attention, in three weeks I had partly recovered, 
 but was so much altered that scarcely anybody could 
 recognise me. I one day visited Lord William Paulet, 
 who had left Scutari, and was on board the Leander in 
 Balaklava Bay. I was so much changed, that neither 
 Admiral Freemantle nor his lordship knew me. Miss 
 Nightingale had returned, and was much in want of my 
 services. Not being aware of my illness, she sent for 
 me; and as soon as I recovered, I waited upon and 
 accompanied that lady to the Monastery Hospital. The 
 fatigue consequent upon my exertions brought me so 
 low, that Dr. Wyatt insisted upon my leaving the 
 Crimea, saying he would not be responsible for my safety 
 any longer in that climate. 
 
 A few days before my departure the following laugh- 
 able circumstance occurred, which has already been 
 related in the columns of the Illustrated News by an 
 amateur correspondent : — 
 
 AN UNEXPECTED VISITOR AND A CONVERSATION. 
 
 I had an amusing adventure the other evening. A stranger 
 visited me, and I entertained a late distinguished attache of the 
 Reform Club unawares. It was getting dusk, and I was very tired, 
 having been engaged in the hospital marquees all day — for we had 
 a very sudden and violent outbreak of cholera. Fhillipo, my 
 Maltese servant, was down on his hands and knees, blowing the 
 lighted charcoal in my fireplace, with the intention of expediting 
 dinner. My fireplace, I must tell you, consists of a hole dug in the 
 ■earth, with three pieces of iron hooping stretched across by way of 
 grate ; and a very admirable kitchen-range it is. Phillipo had just 
 afforded me the agreeable information that dinner would not be 
 ready for nearly an hour, and I was in the act of lighting my pipe, 
 when I heard an unaccustomed step climbing up the rock side, close 
 to my tent, and a musical and hilarious voice exclaimed, “ Is Guy 
 Earl of Warwick at home ?” I laid down my pipe utterly astounded ; 
 and in another moment a hand drew aside the canvas, a head 
 appeared at the entrance of my tent, and the portly figure of a man 
 speedily completed the apparition. For a moment my visitor sur- 
 
 c c 2 
 
388 
 
 A FRIEND IN NEED. 
 
 veyed me, evidently as much astonished as I was. “ Ah ! I see, I 
 have made one grand mistake !” (he spoke tolerable English, but 
 with a decided French accent). “ You will think me strange. I 
 was looking for my old friend Warwick, and made sure this was his 
 tent. We call him Guy Earl of Warwick. Ah! ah! badinage. It 
 may be you know him ?” 
 
 By this time I had fully surveyed my visitor. He was a tall, 
 stout, rather handsome-looking man, aged about fifty years. He 
 wore a drab-coloured “ wide-awake” wrapped round with a red scarf, 
 and a white blouse, heavily braided about the sleeves. His hair 
 had been black, now rapidly changing into grey ; and his whiskers, 
 moustache, and beard (the latter primly cut), were of the same 
 “ Oxford mixture.” Observing that the walk up the hill had 
 slightly affected his breathing, I invited him to take a seat on one 
 of my bullock-trunks, the only “ ottoman” of which my Turkish 
 tent could boast. (It is no slight exertion to get up to my tent, as 
 I have pitched it almost at the top of a hill, in order, if possible, to 
 evade the rats, which swarm in the Crimea; indeed, I scarcely 
 know whether rats, flies, or fleas are the greatest nuisance.) In a 
 few moments we got into conversation. 
 
 “ I am going to Balaklava shortly,” said the stranger; “I am 
 going on board ship. I have been out here some few months ; my 
 health has been gone ever since I came. They tell me I am older 
 ten years this last five months. I am going to England.” 
 
 “ And I am only waiting till this Crimean drama is over to 
 follow your example,” said I. “ I must see the Russians finally 
 driven out, and then I go home too. As to campaigning, the 
 curiosity which brought me here is gratified; as to the moving 
 accidents of war, I have supped full of horrors ! — But here comes 
 Phillipo with the dinner.” 
 
 The Maltese entered, and placed upon the table a piece of beef 
 baked in an iron pot, also some boiled potatoes. I observed that my 
 visitor eyed the dinner curiously, and I was almost angry to observe 
 the instantaneous elevation of his eyebrows, when with great diffi- 
 culty I succeeded in whittling off with a sharp carving-knife a slice 
 of the outside. 
 
 “ Nice beef, but not done quite enough,” said my visitor. 
 
 He might well say so ; it was almost raw. I stuck a fork into 
 the potatoes ; they were as hard as pebbles. I was in despair. The 
 stranger laughed aloud. I was rapidly getting sulky. 
 
 “ I see you have a good fire outside,” said my visitor ; “ that 
 charcoal gives a beautiful heat. How, if you will take my advice, I 
 should say, cut a slice or two ” 
 
 “ Excuse me,” I replied, “ but if there is one thing more than 
 another that I pride myself on, it is my cooking. I can cook with 
 any fellow in the Crimea, perhaps excepting Soyer ; and some people 
 say that he is a great humbug.” 
 
 “Do they indeed?” said he. “Well, he must be rather a clever 
 humbug to sell 40,000 of his books.” 
 
HOME-THRUSTS. 
 
 389 
 
 44 I must confess,” I said, 44 that his shilling Cookery-hook is a 
 great invention. I have made many capital dishes by its direction. 
 The fact is, I generally superintend the cooking myself.” 
 
 44 And your politeness to me has spoiled your dinner. Now look 
 here.” 
 
 And, almost before I could interpose a word, my potatoes were in 
 slices, a large onion was dissected piecemeal, my beef was submitted 
 to the knife, a pinch or two of ration salt and pepper completed the 
 preparations, and my little canteen-pan was on the fire. I looked 
 on, regarding these proceedings with much astonishment, and not a 
 little jealousy. After a few minutes the stranger gave the pan a 
 graceful wave or two over the fire, and then replaced it on the table. 
 There was a dinner fit for Sardanapalus ! Never shall I forget the 
 elegant curl of that steam, or the exquisite odour which soon per- 
 vaded the atmosphere of my tent. I could not help thinking of and 
 half excusing a certain hairy man who lived in the first ages, and 
 who for just such a mess of potage disposed of his estates. 
 
 44 How do you like it ?” said the stranger. 
 
 44 Don’t talk at present,” I answered ; 44 1 consider dinner one of the 
 most serious duties of life.” 
 
 44 Ah ! ah ! then you would not call Soyer a humbug to make 
 this?” 
 
 44 Soyer !” I said in disdain — 44 Soyer never made or invented a 
 dish half as good in his life ! Talk about French slops in comparison 
 with prime English beef and onions ! Bah !” 
 
 I was carried away by my enthusiasm, and quite forgot that I was 
 at that moment eating part of the carcase of a wretched Armenian 
 beast, that would not have fetched 50s. in an English market. At 
 last dinner was over. 
 
 44 One more glass of sherry,” said the stranger, 44 and then I go. 
 I am very glad to have made your acquaintance, and I hope you 
 will come and see me when you come down to Balaklava. I shall 
 be on board the ship JEdward in the bay. I am going to stop there 
 a little time for my health. Come on board and ask for me.” 
 
 4 With very great pleasure — and your name ? 
 
 44 Oh ! my name — S oyer” said he; and he sat down and laughed 
 till the tears stood in his eyes. W. C. 
 
 Soon after I left Balaklava for Scutari on board the 
 Imperador , Captain Brown. His humorous countenance 
 would alone have sufficed to restore the gaiety of the 
 most shattered constitution, setting aside his good-nature 
 and continual kindness to his numerous passengers, par- 
 ticularly the invalids. What visitor to the Crimea has 
 not known or heard of Captain Brown of the Imp evador ? 
 His heart was as large as his ship, and his mind as 
 brilliant as his gorgeous saloon : moreover, his table was 
 
390 
 
 FAME IN AMERICA. 
 
 worthy of any yachting epicure. He was in every way 
 a credit to that noble class of men, the pet children of 
 the ocean, the captain’s kingly race. At the time of my 
 trip he was an invalid, having broken two of his ribs ; 
 but he did not consider the case a serious one, and con- 
 soled himself by saying this accident was nothing com- 
 pared with the one he had met with a few months 
 before. “ Then,” said he, laughing, “ I actually fell 
 into the coal-hole, and broke my collar bone; and (show- 
 ing his lame arm) I shall be lame for life through it. 
 However, these broken ribs are nearly set again, and I 
 shall soon be well. But pray do not make me laugh — - 
 come, let us have another glass of port,” closed his 
 argument. (This was cheese-time dialogue.) 
 
 We had a fine passage, as well as agreeable companions 
 in the passengers, amongst whom were three American 
 gentlemen just returning from Russia. They were in 
 Sebastopol during the storming on the 8th of September,, 
 and had been sent by their Government upon important 
 duty. Owing to my weakness at the time, I have forgotten 
 the purport of their mission. They had been introduced 
 to the Emperor Alexander, and spoke in high terms of 
 his Majesty’s courtesy. They had come from America in 
 their own ship, which was at that time in the Bosphorus 
 undergoing repairs. I was invited to dine with them 
 some day, which I promised to do, but was not able to 
 keep my promise, in consequence of my continued illness.. 
 
 The dinner,” said one of them, shall be cooked a la 
 Soyer, for we have your book on board — the one called 
 the Modern Housewife .” 
 
 I felt much flattered when they afterwards told me 
 that my book was very extensively used in America. 
 “ Your Cookery-book, Monsieur Soyer, is the national 
 book, or ( household words/ Every respectable family 
 has it. Indeed, you are as well known by reputa- 
 tion in America as in England. Take this for a 
 standing invitation. Should you ever come as far 
 as our American land of freedom, we invite you to be 
 our guest.” 
 
 At this I was highly gratified, and almost promised,. 
 
ARRIVE AT SCUTARI. 
 
 391 
 
 if I recovered, to accept their invitation. At all events, 
 in case I should not go, I take this opportunity of 
 thanking them heartily for their kind invitation, in 
 hopes that this book, like its predecessors, will cross the 
 Atlantic, and come under their notice. 
 
 To me everything on board the magnificent ship Im - 
 peraclor wore a smiling aspect, and I began to feel myself 
 again. I no sooner arrived at Scutari, than I went and 
 visited Brigadier-General Storks, with whom I had not 
 the pleasure of being acquainted. He had succeeded Lord 
 William Paulet. I was kindly received by the general. 
 He congratulated me in flattering terms upon the good 
 system I had introduced into the kitchen department of 
 the hospitals, of which he was at that time the governor. 
 I felt myself quite at home with the general, who, though 
 an Englishman, could have taught me my own language. 
 He certainly spoke it more fluently than I did myself : 
 I had been so long in England, and had, moreover, 
 employed so many people of different nations — Greeks, 
 Armenians, Turks, French, Italians; and I must not 
 omit two Maltese, who, to render them justice, were worth 
 all my other cooks put together for intelligence and 
 activity — that I began to forget my native tongue. My 
 readers can easily suppose that, amidst such a miscellany 
 of languages, one might easily murder one’s own. 
 General Storks is not only a good French scholar, but 
 has all the tournure and appearance of the French beau 
 ideal . After about half-an-hour’s chat upon business 
 and other matters, I left the general, and promised to 
 have the pleasure of visiting him frequently during my 
 stay in Scutari, which was to be about a week — it being 
 then my intention to return to England to regain my 
 health. 
 
 I visited my first Crimean doctor. Dr. Linton, who 
 had left the Crimea to replace Dr. Cumming. He would 
 hardly condescend to know me, so much had I altered; 
 and I found this to be the case with every one I met. I 
 frightened my cooks when I entered the kitchen. They 
 had heard that I was dead, which I afterwards personally 
 denied ; but they did not think it was possible I could look 
 
392 
 
 CONSOLATIONS. 
 
 so bad. Purveyors, comptrollers, civilian and military 
 doctors, Sisters of Mercy, all consoled me by saying, “ I 
 fear you will never get over it, Monsieur Soyer.” 
 
 “Well,” I replied to some of them, “that’s my 
 business ; at all events, I will do my best to deceive 
 you.” 
 
 Nothing is less likely to restore a man when he is 
 half dead than trying to persuade him that he must 
 succumb. Thanks to my lucky star, I have deceived 
 them all ; and some richly deserve it, as they had laid 
 bets upon my chance, particularly my Zouave and another 
 of my men. The former answered all inquiries respecting 
 the state of my health by, “ The governor, you see, is 
 in a very bad way. His hash is settled ; it is all over 
 with him. It is a pity, for he is a good man, and he 
 had promised to take me with him to London, a place I 
 very much wish to visit.” 
 
 A few days after my arrival in Constantinople my 
 health again failed me, and having no further need for 
 the services of my Zouave, to his great regret we parted, 
 but on such friendly terms, that he afterwards often 
 observed, “ Look ye, governor, you have been a good 
 master to me, and if you ever recover from your serious 
 illness, which is not very probable, send for me — I am 
 still your man, and will follow you anywhere and every- 
 where, even to England ; and if any fellow annoys you, 
 here is the arm (showing it to the shoulder) which will 
 make them bleed to death and bury them after.” 
 
 I took up my residence at Soyer House, wdiere I 
 enjoyed the gay and interesting prospect for an invalid 
 of the monster lugubrious cemetery, or Grand Champ 
 des Morts, on one side, and the hospital on the other. 
 The weather was wet and wretched — the house, as usual, 
 splendidly ventilated, and had been robbed of its furniture 
 by a Greek servant I had left there. It was, moreover, 
 populated by rats and other vermin. Before I could set it 
 in order, I fell ill for the third time, and had, in addition 
 to my former malady, a severe attack of dysentery. I 
 left my dismal abode, now become unbearable, crossed 
 the Bosphorus to Pera, and took up my lodgings at an 
 
A BAD CASE. 
 
 393 
 
 hotel for a few days, as I then anticipated, having deter- 
 mined upon my departure for England. However, 
 instead of improving in health, I grew worse and worse, 
 and was laid up for three months ; in fact, I began to 
 fear my Zouave would win his wager. During this time, 
 I received notice that the order had been given for four 
 hundred stoves, which were to be forwarded as fast as 
 they could be made. I therefore decided upon remain- 
 ing at Constantinople, in the hope of being able, in the 
 event of getting better, of returning to the Crimea, and 
 distributing them to the different regiments. 
 
 One day I had crossed over to Scutari, in order to visit 
 Miss Nightingale, who had just arrived from Balaklava, 
 when I met the celebrated Dr. Sutherland, who, like the 
 rest, gave me a very encouraging view of his scientific 
 opinion upon the state of my health. “ For God’s sake, 
 Soyer,” said he, “ do leave this country, and go imme- 
 diately to Malta — not England — or you are a dead man.” 
 
 “ Not so, doctor,” I replied ; “ I am much better these 
 last few days. In fact, I am going back to the Crimea ; 
 my stoves are expected daily, and I must go and distri- 
 bute them.” 
 
 “ In that case, don’t forget to take your tombstone 
 with you.” 
 
 “ A very interesting thing to do, doctor ; but I shall 
 chance the voyage for all that, if I improve ; and as to 
 the tombstone, I shall leave that to friendly hands in 
 case it is required.” 
 
 I thanked him for the valuable medical advice he had 
 given me, as well as the suggestion of a visit to Malta. 
 I left my German doctor, Mr. Morris, a very eminent 
 man I believe, but his German style of treatment did 
 not seem to agree with my John Bull constitution. I 
 had no sooner left him and adopted the English style of 
 treatment, (and here I cannot refrain from expressing 
 my thanks to a young medical gentleman named Ambler, 
 who \vas most assiduous in his kind attentions to me, and 
 through following his prescriptions, which were very 
 strengthening, I ultimately recovered,) and was able 
 to cook nice things for myself, instead of starving 
 
394 
 
 GRAND BALL. 
 
 a V Allemande upon a rigorous diet, than I regained 
 strength enough to go about and look to business, and 
 even to ride from hospital to hospital — go to the Isles 
 des Princes, Therapia, Buyukdere, &c., for change of air, 
 and was at last strong enough to accept the following 
 invitation to the grand ball at the English Embassy: — 
 
 La Yicomtesse Stratford de Eedcliffe prie Monsieur Soyer de venir 
 passer chez elle la soiree de Jeudi, 31 Janvier, a 10 heures. 
 
 j Bal Costume. 
 
 This grand annual festival, so eagerly looked for by the 
 fashionables of Pera and Constantinople, presented this 
 year quite a new phase. In addition to the usual diplo- 
 matic corps of the various nations represented by their 
 ambassadors and their noble families, there were the 
 elite of the Allied armies. The full-dress costumes of the 
 diplomatic corps, as well as those of the military men, 
 intermixed with hundreds of exquisite fancy costumes, 
 formed a ravishing tout ensemble . 
 
 Such an assemblage of members of all nations pro- 
 bably never met beneath the same roof, and very likely 
 never will again — the advent of the war being the cause. 
 The greatest attraction of the ball was the assemblage 
 of ladies in their brilliant costumes. Independent of 
 those from the various embassies, were Erench, English, 
 German, Greek, Armenian, Italian, and Circassian ladies 
 — in fact, all nations except the one the ball was given 
 to, viz., Turkish ladies, the only lady in that Oriental 
 costume turning out to be a colonel of cavalry. At 
 an early hour, the magnificent ball-room, which is lit 
 from the roof by thousands of wax lights, was full. At 
 nine precisely the cannon was heard announcing the 
 arrival of the Sultan at the Palais d^Angleterre. The 
 coup-d? ceil was really fairylike, upon the entrance of his 
 Majesty and suite, the latter attired in full uniforms, 
 which could not fail to astonish the most initiated eye by 
 the gorgeous display of gold, jewels, and diamonds, 
 coupled with the idea that such a scene had. never 
 before been witnessed except on high Turkish festivals, 
 which are even more solemn than our grand ceremonies. 
 Upon this occasion were assembled all the grandees and 
 
cc ELIZABETH QUADRILLES.** 395 
 
 chief Turkish officers, attired in their sacred festival 
 uniforms, with a smile upon their countenances, instead 
 of the usual stolid and serious cast of features so peculiar 
 to the Moslem during their grand ceremonies. His 
 Sublime Majesty was nobly though plainly attired, and 
 shone above his suite by his magnificent simplicity. 
 
 Lord Stratford de Redcliffe met the Sultan at the foot 
 of the great marble staircase, that architectural chef - 
 cV oeuvre of the Palais d*Angleterre ; and her ladyship and 
 family, surrounded by her noble circle, received him at 
 the summit. His Majesty, with great affability, expressed 
 through Lord de Redcliffe the gratification he felt at 
 being presented to her ladyship and her numerous visitors. 
 He was shown through the various saloons, which were 
 brilliantly illuminated and profusely decorated with 
 choice flowers : they were all crowded. The expression 
 of his Majesty*s countenance showed that he took the 
 most vivid interest in the novel scene witnessed by him 
 for the first time. The ladies* fancy dresses were in 
 exquisite taste, particularly the “ Elizabeth Quadrilles,** 
 led by Lady de Redcliffe and the young ladies, forming 
 a perfect representation in tableau vivant of the Eliza- 
 bethan period, brilliantly executed. The costumes most 
 to be admired in that assemblage of aristocratic beauty 
 were, the Pompadour, Ninon de l*Enclos, ancient Greek, 
 Circassian, Roman peasant, Albanaise, Catalanaise, and 
 Pierrettes. 
 
 All the gentlemen, except the diplomatic and high 
 military corps, were in fancy character, which gave a 
 cheerful appearance and ensemble to the ball ; and the 
 Sultan, prior to his departure, expressed to Lord and 
 Lady de Redcliffe the gratification he felt at witnessing 
 such a lively scene.* 
 
 * A few days after, his Majesty honoured with his presence the 
 grand anniversary ball given at the French Embassy by Monsieur 
 
 Thouvenel, the French ambassador. It was also very splendid, but 
 not being a fancy one, did not offer the same points of interest. The 
 English ball had the advantage of being the first ever attended by 
 a Moslem monarch : nevertheless, his Sublime Majesty remained 
 longer at the latter than at the former, having, doubtless, taken a 
 fancy to our European social customs. 
 
396 
 
 SUDDEN CHANGE. 
 
 Towards five in the morning, its dazzling grandeur 
 had disappeared, and very forcibly presented to some 
 of us the reverse of the medal. To a mild evening 
 succeeded a most tempestuous and cold morning : snow 
 fell heavily in the Oriental city. The change of 
 temperature was so sudden and violent, that one might 
 have .fancied oneself transferred by enchantment from 
 summer to winter, or from Paradise to Pandemonium. 
 The sudden change of scene and temperature presented 
 a sad contrast to the mind. A few friends accompanied 
 me who were, like mj^self, very lightly clad, being in 
 character, and we had to go home in that storm of 
 snow on foot. On reflection, I felt that I had acted very 
 imprudently in going at all, in the state I was then in, 
 and that it might prove fatal to me. “ After all,” said 
 I to my friends, who, like myself, were floundering about 
 in the snow, by that time six inches deep in some places, 
 “ I should very much regret not having been, no matter 
 what may be the consequences. To be present at an 
 entertainment which the Padischah for the first time had 
 honoured with his presence, viz., a Christian ball, is far 
 from being a common thing.” 
 
 We reached our hotel door as wet as frogs, the move- 
 ments of which reptile we had been for some time 
 imitating by jumping from tombstone to tombstone in 
 the Petit Champ des Morts, that being our nearest road 
 home. The door was opened, after we had knocked 
 about twenty times. Nevertheless, we had no reason 
 to be dull or impatient, as there was defiling before 
 us the everlasting caravan of donkeys laden with coffins 
 for the daily consumption of the French hospital at 
 Pera. Never, perhaps, upon any stage was there such 
 a sudden change from the sublime to the gloomy. The 
 door at last opened, and we were saluted with a “Very 
 sorry, gentlemen, to keep you waiting, but we did not 
 expect you so early.” It was only half-past six a.m. 
 
 I made sure that I should be ill after such a series of 
 events, and, wishing to be quiet, I gave special orders 
 that no one should be permitted to disturb me, excepting 
 the doctor, who was in the habit of calling occasionally. 
 
A WONDERFUL CURE. 
 
 397 
 
 I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was aroused by a 
 knock at the door, and a letter was put into my hands 
 apprising me that part of my stoves had arrived. 
 I was, therefore, obliged to rise immediately and to 
 go in person to the Admiralty, as my head man had left 
 for Scutari the night before. The steamer was on its 
 way to Balaklava, and the captain did not know what he 
 was to do with them. I immediately wrote to Colonel 
 Blane at head-quarters upon the subject, and received 
 the following letter in reply : — 
 
 Head-quarters, Crimea, 19z^ March , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — In reply to your letter of the 13th inst., I am directed to 
 acquaint you that the new field-stoves will not be issued by Captain 
 Gordon until he receives instructions to that effect from the Quarter- 
 master-General. Lieut. -Colonel Halliwell, Assistant Quartermaster- 
 General of the Fourth Division, will give you, on your arrival in 
 the Crimea, every information as to the hut which was directed to 
 be built for your use in the camp of the Fourth Division. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 Monsieur A. Soyer, Bobert Blane, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 Barrack Hospital, Scutari. Military Secretary . 
 
 The exertion I had undergone for nearly twenty-four 
 hours, I fully expected would have laid me up for as 
 many days. On the contrary, however, I felt as strong 
 again as the day before the ball, and to this event alone 
 I attribute my cure. This proves that a sudden change 
 may often be beneficial in cases of violent disease. In a 
 few days I once more embarked on board the Ottoiva , 
 and was again en route to the Crimean shore, but received 
 the following letter from Lord de Redcliffe before 
 leaving : — 
 
 British Embassy, February 20th, 1856. 
 
 Dear Monsieur Soyer, — I cannot let you go back to the 
 Crimea, which I understand you think of doing, without receiving my 
 written thanks, in addition to those which I have already expressed 
 by word of mouth. 
 
 It must be a great satisfaction to you to have found so excellent a 
 field for the application of your skill and humanity ; and I sincerely 
 hope that your name will be never dissociated from the great and 
 memorable events of the present war. 
 
 Believe me, very sincerely yours, 
 
 Monsieur A. Soyer. Stratford de Bedcliffe. 
 
398 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 Prior to my departure, to my great satisfaction, the 
 Medical Staff Corps were well established in the Barrack 
 and General Hospitals, these being the only ones remain- 
 ing. All the responsibility of the culinary department 
 in those establishments was thus taken off my hands, as 
 the Medical Staff were well acquainted with my system, 
 which was followed to the last. 
 
 The following letters which I wrote to the Govern- 
 ment and General Storks will prove the necessity that 
 exists for the establishment of such a corps for military 
 hospitals; and it ought to be established by every 
 nation. 
 
 To General Stories, Commanding Officer. 
 
 Barrack Hospital, Scutari, March 1 1th, 1856. 
 
 Mons. le General, — My field-stoves for the army, so long 
 expected, having just arrived ; in a few days I shall proceed to the 
 Crimea to distribute them to the different regiments, as per special 
 orders from the War-office. 
 
 Prior to my departure hence, I am happy to inform jmu that 
 the Medical Staff Corps is now instructed by Victor, the civilian 
 cook, in the management of the kitchen department of the hospital 
 under the new system introduced by me and approved of by the 
 medical authorities, which up to this time (a period of twelve months) 
 has perfectly succeeded. 
 
 As I shall require Victor with me in the Crimea, I shall leave the 
 future management in the hands of the said corps : I would recommend 
 its introduction in all the military hospitals, it being of the utmost 
 importance for the regularity of the diet for the sick, that the 
 em/ployes, when once initiated, should not be removed, as was the 
 ease with the soldier cooks, and which removal was much commented 
 upon by nr^self and Dr. Cumming on my arrival at Scutari, and 
 induced me to introduce civilian cooks. The introduction of the 
 new corps will also tend to the regularity and economy of the extra- 
 diet system, which is a matter of great importance in so large an 
 establishment, and has till now been attended with difficulty, as the 
 civilian cooks could not be subjected to the rigid discipline of the 
 new corps. 
 
 I feel myself in duty bound to say that Mr. Robertson, the 
 purveyor-in-chief, has assisted me in every way to bring the 
 system to the state of perfection in which it now is. ; which system 
 I am confident will, by the introduction of my printed receipts, be 
 adopted at home in the civil as well as military hospitals — it having 
 been submitted to both military and civilian medical officers, who 
 
SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 399 
 
 have approved the same, and also assisted me with their valuable 
 knowledge and suggestions in its formation. 
 
 With the highest consideration, I have the honour to be. 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 A. Soyer. 
 
 To the Right Hon. Lord Panmure, Secretary-at- War. 
 
 Barrack Hospital, Scutari, March 11th, 1856. 
 
 My Lord, — The ship Cape of Good Hope , with the first con- 
 signment of my stoves on board, has just passed through the 
 Bosphorus to Baiaklava, and, to my great disappointment, without 
 stopping here ; as I was in daily expectation of her arrival in order 
 to proceed in her to the Crimea, and distribute them to the different 
 regiments, having with that view requested from the Admiralty- 
 office, and the wharf-master at Scutari, notice of her arrival. I have 
 just been apprised that the ship was ordered direct for Baiaklava, 
 and I shall follow her as early as possible. I have written to head- 
 quarters to that effect, and beg to enclose the copy of a letter to 
 General Storks, in which your lordship will perceive how highly I 
 approve of the introduction of the new Medical Staff Corps. 
 
 I have the honour to be, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 A. Soyer. 
 
400 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 CAMP OF THE FOURTH DIVISION. 
 
 Excellent quality of the stoves — Mr. Phillips — Strange way of re- 
 pairing — Interview with General Codrington — Installed on 
 Cathcart’s Hill — Gourmet and gourmand — Lessons to the soldier- 
 cooks — Receipt to cook salt meat for fifty men — Army soup for 
 fifty men — Success of my stoves — The grand breakfast — Guests 
 — Economy — Use of the fat — General Garrett’s testimony — 
 Giving-parties mania — Invitations — My first dinner — Amuse- 
 ments — General Liiders’s invitation to the Allied Commanders — 
 Scene on the Mackenzie Heights — Fraternization — Hospitality 
 of the Tartar families. 
 
 I thus had the opportunity of taking my civilian 
 cooks away with me, as I wanted their services in the 
 Crimea. Upon my arrival at Balaklava, I paid my 
 respects to General Codrington. My stoves had arrived 
 just before, and the fact of their having been adopted 
 was mentioned in the orders of the day. 
 
 Mr. Phillips, the engineer I had requested the 
 Government to send out to superintend or repair the 
 stoves if required, arrived on board the Argo . I am 
 
 happy to say that, as far as repairs were concerned, this 
 gentleman’s services were not needed. Although the 
 stoves were frequently moved from camp to camp, and 
 from one regiment to another — were in continual use in 
 the open air, exposed to all weathers, and some of them 
 for above twelve months, they did not stand in need of 
 any repairs. This fact speaks volumes for their fitness 
 for campaigning. 
 
 Mr. Phillips was the son of one of the partners of 
 the firm of Smith and Phillips. He had nothing 
 to do professionally as regards the repairing of the 
 stoves, but I must acknowledge that he made himself 
 very useful as well as agreeable. He rose very early, 
 and accompanied me in my camp cruises, racing from 
 
A COCKNEY ZOUAVE, 
 
 401 
 
 stove to stove. He woke at daybreak, but always felt 
 rather drowsy till he had taken a strong cup of tea, with 
 a stronger drop of rum in it, which set him, as he said, 
 upon his mettle. He then mounted his horse, which 
 had gloriously served his country for nearly fourteen 
 years in the French cavalry under a heavy cuirassier. 
 The only inconvenience with this warrior quadruped was 
 that my cockney Zouave was never sure which regiment 
 he should visit first, as he was no sooner on the back of 
 this old pensioner, than he began to fidget, and off he 
 went in any direction, but always stopped at some regi- 
 mental stable. This did not so much matter, as I had 
 stoves in almost every regiment. The only plan was to 
 make no positive appointment. 
 
 On two or three occasions he was less successful, for 
 Ventre-a-terre — such was the French name of that Pegasus 
 — took him full gallop “through the French camp. The 
 first inconvenience was my having no stove there ; the 
 second, the French had arrested him for galloping 
 through the camp, and were about to put his horse in 
 the pound and himself in prison. I arrived quite by 
 chance, and he was liberated. As he spoke no French, 
 he was endeavouring to assure them in English that he 
 was not the culprit, but his horse. I explained the case 
 to the French sergeant, and recommended, as a point of 
 justice, as it was the animal's fault, that he should be 
 put in the stable and the horse in prison. This amused 
 the group of Imperial Guards, who surrounded us by 
 scores, and a few bottles of very, very acid wine, pro- 
 cured at Madame Fleur des Bois', the mistress of the 
 canteen, terminated in full glee the adventure of my 
 cockney Zouave of Snow-hill in the French camp of the 
 Crimea. 
 
 Mr. Phillips was an excellent vocalist, and his collec- 
 tion, unlike that of my Zouave Bornet, with his “En 
 avant les Bataillons d'Afrique," iC Storm of Constantine," 
 “ Bravest of the Brave," “ Cannon Ball," “ Shell Polka," 
 &c., was of a softer nature, including “ Sally in our 
 Alley," who, he pretended, was the love of his heart. 
 Another of his favourite pieces intimated that the soft 
 
 D 1) 
 
402 OLD CANTEEN COOKING APPARATUS. 
 
 part of that organ was bursting for the love of Alice- 
 Gray, whom he very much wished to meet by moonlight 
 alone, or in company with the “ Ratcatcher’s Daughter,”' 
 while walking round the garden with “ Villikins and 
 his Dinah.” I am induced thus minutely to depict the 
 merits of my Snow-hill Zouave, because he will be so 
 well recognised by those who were in the camp. He was 
 short, fair, fat, and full of London jokes, which he had 
 the fault of laughing at more himself than those did who 
 listened to him. He is a good son, good husband, good 
 father, a good fellow, but a bad punster. 
 
 The chief evil in the old canteen cooking apparatus 
 was, that it so easily got out of repair. There was no 
 possibility either of mending them or of obtaining new 
 ones, as they were only issued at certain periods. I saw 
 some that had been mended in a most extraordinary 
 style. When the hole was too small, the soldiers 
 would poke a rusty nail into it; if large, a nail with 
 a piece of leather attached. Other operators would cut a 
 piece off the cover in order to mend the bottom or side 
 and as after that scientific repair leakage was unavoidable, 
 they were obliged to keep putting in fresh water, or to 
 let the canteen burn. 
 
 After our interview, General Codrington promised me 
 his assistance. The Congress was then sitting, and 
 rumours of peace were flying about. I asked the general 
 whether it would not be better to prevent more stoves 
 being sent out. He replied — - 
 
 “ Perhaps it would/' 
 
 “ I am glad to hear you say so, your excellency, it 
 being a sign of peace, as war I consider at all times 
 unprofitable.” 
 
 “ On the contrary, Monsieur Soyer ; we are making 
 greater preparations than ever for war.” 
 
 It was decided that, for the time being, one stove should 
 be delivered to each regiment, and be removed from 
 company to company, in order to give all the men an 
 insight into the method of using them, and of my sys- 
 tem of cooking. This was immediately done ; and on 
 the receipt of the following from Colonel Blane, I went 
 to Colonel Halliwell : — • 
 
SOYEE’S VILLAKETTE ON CATHCAKT'S HILL. p 403. 
 
MY NEW CASTLE. 
 
 403 
 
 Head-Quarters, Crimea. 
 
 My dear Sir, — By applying to Colonel Halliweli of the Fourth 
 Division, he will give you possession of the hut which has been built 
 for yourself and suite, and will assist you in every manner possible. 
 
 I am, yours ever, 
 
 S. J. Blane, Col., 
 
 Mil. Sec. to Gen. Sir T V. Codrington , Commanding. 
 
 To Monsieur Soyer. 
 
 In a very short space of time my tents were pitched, and 
 myself and my people were installed, on that celebrated 
 spot called after that great and deeply-regretted man. 
 General Catheart — viz., Cathcart’s Hill. 
 
 This was now my castle, and proud was I of the 
 noble site granted to me, as well as of my neigh- 
 bours, from whom I received a most kind and friendly 
 reception. Indeed, it was with the highest gratifi- 
 cation that I found in the Fourth Division the same 
 welcome and urbanity I had received in the First. I 
 shall ever be grateful to Colonel Halliweli, who, by the 
 bye, is a very distinguished artist and a discriminating 
 epicure. Excuse the remark, dear reader, but a man, as 
 I have already remarked in my Regenerator , may be 
 either a gourmet or a gourmand, but never both : “ car 
 le gourmand n’est jamais gourmet; Fun mange sans 
 deguster, F autre deguste en mangeant.” The gourmet 
 is the Epicurean dilettante, who eats scientifically and 
 with all his organs — ears, of course, included. The 
 gourmand’s stomach alone acts; he swallows all that 
 is put before him, never praises the culinary artist, and 
 seldom complains of the quality of the food, but fre- 
 quently of the want of quantity. 
 
 Therefore, gourmets, epicures, high-livers, and wealthy 
 merchants, who are gifted with a fine intellect, never 
 allow yourselves to be called a gourmand if you are 
 really deserving of the title of gourmet — and this title 
 I confidently bestow upon my honourable friend Colonel 
 Halliweli, who was not only a gourmet, but also a very 
 good amateur cook. I defy any one to make a better 
 mayonnaise, not even excepting professionals. 
 
 The plan I had adopted for the introduction of my 
 stoves was as follows : — I first had an interview with the 
 
 dd2 
 
404 
 
 PLAN ADOPTED. 
 
 colonel of the regiment, who introduced me to the 
 quartermaster — the latter to the storekeeper. Then I 
 went to the commissariat in each division, where I 
 looked over the stores, in order to regulate the distribu- 
 tion of the provisions and condiments with judgment 
 and according to common sense.* 
 
 To remedy this evil in a private family would only 
 require a few minutes* conversation with the cook ; 
 while in an army it would take years, as military rules 
 would have to be changed and fresh ones introduced. 
 Simple as the change may appear, it is still very difficult 
 
 * When I say “ according to common sense,” I am speaking 
 within bounds. Salt and pepper, fresh and preserved vegetables 
 (the latter either in tins or in cakes), were distributed from the 
 regimental quartermaster’s stores to the cooks of each company 
 for three days’ consumption at a time. The consequence was that, 
 in a couple of days, and sometimes in one, the three days’ rations 
 had either been consumed or were wasted. The first day, the soup 
 or other food was badly prepared, on account of the excess of these 
 ingredients ; and it was still worse on the following days, on account 
 of their being short of all with the exception of the meat, which was 
 therefore boiled in plain water with rice, but often without either 
 salt or vegetables. The food was thus rendered insipid and unwhole- 
 some. Such was the system I found in general use, and it was 
 a great pity, seeing the Government had so liberally provided 
 all that was required. Proper regulation was all that was needed 
 in order to increase the comforts of the men. The meals of the 
 whole army constitute a very important matter. Any improvement 
 was certain to be felt daily ; for can anything be more unpalatable 
 than a piece of fresh beef boiled in plain water, without seasoning ? 
 There was no salt to eat with it, although plenty was allowed for 
 each man. This is what I call want of attention and lack of common 
 sense. I do not mean to say this was always the case, as some 
 quartermasters, who noticed the evil, distributed the vegetables 
 daity, instead of for three days at once. Many of the men were 
 intelligent enough to divide the allowance, but the greater number 
 were very careless ; it therefore became of the utmost importance 
 to establish a rule which would not leave them the chance of doing 
 wrong. The great evil is, that after being thus deprived of salt for 
 a day or two, they then receive salt rations, which they boil in small 
 tin camp-kettles, and without soaking, in merely a few pints of 
 water, which becomes like so much brine. Thus various diseases, 
 which are seldom attributed to the real cause, are engendered, and 
 all medicinal equilibrium is completely upset. The rectifying of 
 this was one of the numerous difficulties I had to encounter during 
 my mission. 
 
MY OFFICIAL RECEIPTS. 
 
 405 
 
 to carry out, particularly in a camp extending over such, 
 a large space of ground. Fortunately, I was invested with 
 the power of doing so without troubling the authorities : 
 nevertheless, it was only by the following plan that I 
 succeeded. To effect this very important object, as well 
 as to introduce my new system, I devoted an hour to 
 attend in person and give the first lesson myself to the 
 soldier-cooks. As the colonel, quartermaster, and a ser- 
 jeant were present, besides many officers as lookers-on, 
 a great impression was thus created upon the men, who 
 immediately saw the importance of following my instruc- 
 tions. I supplied the cooks with receipts printed at 
 head-quarters, which gave them quite an official appear- 
 ance. The annexed specimen will give an idea of their 
 simplicity, and of the facility with which they might be 
 adopted : — 
 
 soyer’s simplified receipt to cook salt meat for fifty mex. 
 
 Head-Quarters, Crimea, 12 th May, 1856. 
 
 1. Put 50 lbs. of meat in the boiler. 
 
 2. Fill with water, and let it soak all night. 
 
 3. Next morning wash the meat well. 
 
 4. Fill with fresh water, and boil gently three hours. 
 
 P.S. — Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute 
 
 for butter. 
 
 soyer’s army soup for fifty men. 
 
 1. Put in the boiler 30 quarts, 7^ gallons, or 5^ camp-kettles 
 
 of water. 
 
 2. Add to it 50 lbs. of meat, either beef or mutton. 
 
 3. The rations of preserved or fresh vegetables. 
 
 4. Ten small table- spoonfuls of salt. 
 
 5. Simmer three hours, and serve. 
 
 P.S. — When rice is issued, put it in when boiling. Three pounds 
 will be sufficient. About 8 lbs. of fresh vegetables, or 4 squares from 
 a cake of preserved ditto. A table-spoonful of pepper, if handy. 
 
 Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for 
 butter.* (For other variations of receipts, see Addenda.) 
 
 * For a regiment of one thousand men, increase the number of 
 stoves in proportion. If one hundred regiments are to be cooked 
 for, repeat the same in each regiment, when you will have cooked 
 enough food to perfection without much trouble for an army of one 
 hundred thousand men, at the same time effecting a saving of above 
 400 per cent, in fuel. 
 
406 
 
 COMMUNICATIONS. 
 
 Thanks to the kindness of the colonels and of the autho- 
 rities of each regiment, every man did his best, and not 
 one found fault with either the stoves or the receipts : 
 on the contrary, they all took pride in their task, and 
 only regretted being compelled to return to the use of 
 the camp-kettles, as sufficient of my stoves had not then 
 arrived to enable me to supply them all. The cooking 
 out of doors was also very agreeable to them, besides the 
 saving of labour, in not having to cut, split, or saw 
 several hundredweight of wood for each company, as 
 they now only required a few pounds. 
 
 Having proved the utility of the stoves, the military 
 authorities and doctors tasted the different soups and 
 messes, with which they were also well pleased. The 
 following letters, with those in Addenda,* will fully cor- 
 roborate my statement on both these points : — 
 
 Wae-Office, June 8 th, 1855. 
 
 Sie, — I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of 
 the lltli ultimo, reporting your arrival at Balaklava, and the steps 
 taken by you for improving the condition of the kitchens and 
 cooking arrangements of the hospitals there; and to acquaint 
 you, that your account of your proceedings and progress is very 
 satisfactory. 
 
 I am, Sir, your obedient servant. 
 Monsieur Soyer, Feedeeick J. Peescott. 
 
 The Robert Rowe, 
 
 Balaklava Harbour, Crimea. 
 
 Wae Office, 19 th September, 1855. 
 
 Sie, — I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of 
 the 6th ultimo, enclosing a copy of your arrangements at Scutari 
 prior to your leaving for the Crimea, and to convey to you the thanks 
 of the Secretary-at-War for that very satisfactory communication. 
 
 I am, Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 Monsieur A. Soyer, Feed. J. Peescott. 
 
 Scutari. 
 
 OU2 _ 
 
 r 19 Wae Depaetment, 20 th October, 1855. 
 
 Sie, — I am directed to convey to you his lordship’s thanks for 
 your communications of the 8th and 22nd September, and 2nd 
 
 * For letters of approval from generals of division, colonels in 
 command of regiments, medical and other authorities, see Addenda. 
 
TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 407 
 
 instant ; and, in reply, to inform you, that on your recommendation 
 his lordship has sanctioned an order for 400 stoves to be manufac- 
 tured by Messrs. Smith and Phillips* of Snow Hill, London ; and 
 has given direction that every exertion be used to despatch them 
 at as early a period as possible. 
 
 I am, Sir, your obedient servant. 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, John Croomes. 
 
 Crimea. 
 
 0112 
 
 26 War Department* *Wi December, 1855. 
 
 Sir, — With reference to your letters of the 10th and 14th 
 November, I am directed to acquaint you that Lord Panmure has 
 pleasure in affording you the facilities you desire in making another 
 visit to the Crimea for the purpose of seeing that a proper use is 
 made of the cooking stoves which have been ordered to be sent out. 
 
 His lordship has written to Sir W. Codrington, instructing him to 
 allow you the use of a hut, and to extend to you the same advantages 
 which you were afforded under Sir James Simpson s command ; but 
 I am to add, that up to the present time, none of the stoves have 
 been actually dispatched, although it is expected that a portion 
 of them will be ready very shortly. 
 
 You must exercise your own discretion, therefore, as to the time 
 for your proceeding to the Crimea. 
 
 I am, Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, E. Chumley. 
 
 Scutari. 
 
 War Department, 25th April, 1856. 
 
 Sir, — I am directed by Lord Panmure to acknowledge the receipt 
 of your letter dated 31st March, and to express his lordship’s pleasure 
 in learning that the cooking arrangements which you have intro- 
 duced in the hospitals at Scutari have answered so perfectly. 
 
 Lord Panmure approves of your presenting one of the stoves to 
 Marshal Pelissier, provided you previously obtain the concurrence of 
 Sir W. Codrington. 
 
 I am, Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 Monsieur Alexis Soyer, John Croomes. 
 
 Crimea. 
 
 War Department, 6 th June , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — I am directed to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of 
 the 6th ultimo, reporting the success of your field-stoves in the 
 Crimea, and enclosing two receipts for the preparation of food for 
 the army, and to express Lord Panmure’s satisfaction thereon. 
 
 I am, Sir, your obedient servant. 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, &c., X Bacon. 
 
 Crimea. 
 
403 
 
 DAILY ROUTINE. 
 
 After having started them in person, I sent my cooks 
 every morning on their rounds to see if the men followed 
 my instructions, and I visited each regiment daily. The 
 hospitals, thank God, were at this time almost empty. 
 When a division had made use of the stoves about a 
 week, I requested the general commanding that division 
 to inquire of the colonel, officers, and men, their opinion 
 of the results of my labours ; and in that manner I ac- 
 quired the above-mentioned numerous letters of commen- 
 dation, having in my possession many others, but space 
 will not allow of their insertion. 
 
 One of the days on which salt rations were issued, 
 I requested General Garrett to go round his division 
 and ask the men what they did with the fat. This 
 he very kindly did, accompanied by his aide-de-camp. 
 Major Dallas. The first cook we visited, in the 18th 
 Regiment, had rations for 94 men (the whole of his 
 company) . They were being cooked in one stove : the 
 two stoves for the same quantity would have been much 
 better, as the more water the meat is boiled in, the more 
 salt is extracted from it. The boiler was filled to the brim, 
 the contents simmering gently: the meat was beautifully 
 cooked. There were about four inches of clear fat, as sweet 
 as butter, floating on the top. The stove was in the open 
 air, and the cook only burnt from ten to fifteen pounds 
 of wood (or hardly so much) to cook for that number — • 
 viz., the whole of his company. The allowance of wood 
 had been reduced from 4^1bs. to 3Jlbs. per man daily. 
 The advent of peace gave me a full opportunity of 
 thoroughly instructing the men, and thus I was enabled 
 firmly to establish my new system. The saving in wood 
 alone, supposing each company to consist of one hundred 
 men, would, at the former rate of allowance, amount to 
 4501bs. per company per diem, allowing 251bs. for cook- 
 ing, which is ample. This in a regiment of eight com- 
 panies would make a daily saving of 36001bs. of wood, 
 independent of the economy of transport, mules, labour, 
 &c. In an army of forty thousand men, it would amount 
 to the immense figure of 180,0001bs., or 90 tons, per day 
 saved to the Government, or 32,850 tons per annum. 
 
THROW IT AWAY. 
 
 409 
 
 General Garrett asked the man what he was going to> 
 do with the fat. 
 
 “ Throw it away, general,” was the answer. 
 
 “ Throw it away ! — why?” said the General. 
 
 “ I don’t know, sir, but we always do.” 
 
 “ Why not use it ?” — “ The men don’t like it, sir.” 
 
 I observed that when the salt meat was cooked in the 
 small canteen pans, the fat was lost for want of the ne- 
 cessary quantity of water to allow it to rise to the surface, 
 as well as to purify it of the salt. Asking the man for a 
 leaden spoon and a tin can, I removed the fat as I had 
 before done in the Guards’ camp. On weighing it the next 
 day, I found upwards of 141bs. of beautiful clean and 
 sweet dripping, fit for use as described in the receipts. 
 Thus about SOOlbs. of this were wasted weekly by each 
 regiment — salt rations being issued four days a week. 
 
 General Garrett expressed a decided opinion that my 
 apparatus was much superior to the old canteen pan, and 
 gave me a letter, which I append in the Addenda. 
 
 The signature of the treaty of peace changed all the 
 proceedings in the camp, except mine ; for in anticipa- 
 tion of the distribution of the remainder of the stoves 
 among the various regiments in the camps at Aldershot 
 barracks, &c., as well as to those on foreign stations, I 
 continued my daily course of instruction, in order that 
 the men, upon arrival at home or elsewhere, might be 
 well acquainted with their use, and be able to impart 
 their knowledge to others. I have since hit upon a plan 
 by which I shall introduce an oven and steamer, and 
 thus do all that is required to vary the cooking of the 
 daily meals in barracks — a subject of great importance. 
 
 War having ceased, the camp bore the appearance of 
 a monster banqueting-hall. “We have done fighting,” 
 said every one, “ so let us terminate the campaign by 
 feasting, lay down our victorious but murderous weapons, 
 and pick up those more useful and restorative arms — the 
 knife and fork.” 
 
 All appeared to have caught a giving-parties mania. 
 You could scarcely meet a friend or even a slight ac- 
 quaintance without being apostrophized by, “ When will 
 
410 
 
 INVITATIONS. 
 
 you dine with me?” as regularly as though it had been 
 inserted in the order of the day. The first invitation I 
 received was from the witty General Barnard, who so 
 generously entertained his friends, under the superin- 
 tendence of his major-domo, Captain Barnard (the 
 gallant genera? s son). A good table, good wine, and 
 plenty of everything, or at least the best that could be 
 obtained, were provided ; and no less than five times had 
 I the honour of being invited to enjoy the noble 
 general’s good cheer. Next came invitations from my 
 noble friend and neighbour, General Garrett, Lord W. 
 Paulet, Colonel de Bathe, Colonel Peel, Major Fielden, 
 Lord Vane, Lord Dunkellin, and the great epicure of 
 epicures. Colonel Haley, of the 47th, &c. &c.; to each and 
 all of whom I cannot but feel grateful — not alone for 
 their liberal welcome, but also for the honour of having 
 been admitted to their friendship. 
 
 I could do no less than return the compliment, which 
 was of course expected from me, the Gastronomic 
 Hegenerator. The first dinner I gave was honoured by 
 the presence of the following gentlemen — viz., Lord 
 William Paulet, Gen. Garrett, Gen. Wyndham, Gen. Bar- 
 nard, Col. Halliwell, Col. B. Campbell (90th), Col. Haley 
 (47th), Major Earle, Major Dallas, Captain Barnard, &c. 
 
 The bill of fare was as follows : — 
 
 Potage k la Codrington. 
 
 Filet de turbot cloute a la Balaklava. 
 
 Quartier de mouton a la bretonne. 
 Foulets a la tartar inc. 
 
 Queues de bceuf a la ravigotte. 
 
 Cotelettes de mouton a la vivandiere. 
 Bissolettes de volatile a la Pelissier. 
 
 Filet de bceuf pique marine, sauce poivrade. 
 
 La mayonnaise k la russe, garnis de cavea. 
 
 Les plum-puddings a la Cosaque. 
 
 Les haricots verds k la poulette. 
 
 Les gelees de citron garni. 
 
 Les croutes a l’abricot. 
 
MY FlllST BANQUET. 
 
 411 
 
 La bombe glace a la Sebastopol. 
 
 Hors-d’oeuvres. 
 
 Les ancboix — sardines — lamproies a l’buile — mortadelle 
 deVerone — olives farcies — thon — cornichons a l’estra- 
 gon — salade — legumes — dessert — cafe — liqueurs. 
 
 Though there was nothing very recherche in the 
 dinner, it met with the approval of all the guests. The 
 appearance of my humble but originally-decorated hut, 
 profusely lit up with wax lights, and a rather nicely 
 laid-out table, surrounded by military men of high 
 standing, in their various uniforms, was exceedingly 
 novel. The occasion formed quite an epoch in my life, 
 and I shall probably never again have the honour of 
 entertaining such a distinguished circle under similar 
 eircumstances. Encouraged by this my first success, I 
 felt in duty bound to continue the series of these petites 
 fetes Anacreoniiques , at which were assembled wit, mirth, 
 good appetite, and delightful harmony. Amateur 
 artistes of no little note, who had emerged triumphant 
 from the murky atmosphere produced by the incessant 
 bombardment of Sebastopol, were there. By their exer- 
 tions the barriers of freedom and civilization were opened 
 to all, and the autocrat Czar was compelled to submit. 
 Those who but a few days before had been enemies were 
 now friends. In fact, the war had ceased, and peace, 
 that mother of sociability, offered her delights freely to 
 all. Care seemed banished from every brow, excepting 
 the sincere regret devoted to the memory of those brave 
 men who had so nobly died for the glory of their country. 
 In addition to the theatres, which had amused the camp 
 throughout the winter, madrigal and glee clubs were 
 instituted. At one of my petits diners (at which the 
 filet de bceuf pique marine was duly discussed and 
 highly praised by my Epicurean guests) the leader of the 
 madrigal club, Colonel de Bathe, proposed that, as I had 
 the largest and most convenient hut for the purpose, 
 besides being well provided with culinary as well as table 
 utensils, as a finale, and to crush the last vestige of 
 sorrow in every one’s heart on account of this me- 
 
412 
 
 GENERAL LUDERS’s RECEPTION. 
 
 morable war, I should give a dinner-party, after which 
 the whole of the members of the Crimean Madrigal 
 Club would harmoniously close the evening with a 
 concert. The proposition was unanimously agreed to. 
 I promised my guests to do my best to close the season 
 of war by producing an excellent gastronomic popotte. 
 A general invitation was given, and the day fixed. 
 
 When General Liiders courteously invited the French 
 and English generals to honour him with their presence 
 at his famed camp on the well-known Mackenzie Heights, 
 the invitation was accepted for the following day. Every- 
 body was anxious to go, and the invitation being a 
 general one, lucky were they who had heard of it. The 
 next day a stream of general officers of the Allied armies 
 poured towards the Tchernaya Bridge. This was our 
 first friendly meeting with those who had so bravely 
 defended themselves and sacrificed their blood in defence 
 of the national cause : General Liiders himself had lost 
 two of his sons in the battle-field. The reception was 
 grand and interesting, the review imposing, the lunch 
 excellent, the bizarrerie of some very eccentric perform- 
 ance by the Cossacks highly amusing, the weather very 
 fine, and the welcome joyous and hearty. It showed 
 what marvels could be produced by a few strokes from a 
 pen guided by a powerful and prudent hand. Only a 
 few days before, the soil upon which we were treading 
 peacefully was trodden by these same human beings with 
 hearts full of revenge, thirst of blood, and destruction. 
 In place of these, good understanding, as if by magic, 
 restored to each heart the feelings of humanity and 
 religion. Thousands of enemies were in a few minutes 
 changed to hospitable friends. The hostile line of de- 
 marcation was now removed, and the camp of our late 
 enemies free to all ; and, instead of gaining inch by inch 
 of ground by the sweat of the brow and waste of blood 
 and life, there was welcome for all. Such was the effect 
 produced upon my mind by the advent of peace, after 
 that memorable and sanguinary Eastern war, through 
 which I thank God for sparing my life during my humble 
 mission, in the prosecution of which I had the honour 
 
FRATERNISATION. 
 
 413 
 
 of witnessing the finale of that great European question, 
 in which the honour and glory of mighty nations were 
 deeply involved. 
 
 After this solemn day of reception, the fusion of the 
 armies took place. Our camp was invaded by Russians, 
 as theirs was by our men. The works and fortifications, 
 as well as Bakschiserai, Simpheropol, Perekop, &c. &c., 
 were immediately taken without bloodshed. The popping 
 of the w^ell-corked champagne had replaced the monstrous 
 and unsociable voice of the cannon. The sparkling 
 liquid, poured in tin pots or cups — anything but crystal 
 champagne-glasses — seemed to unite all hearts. All the 
 taverns, hotels, inns, huts, marquees, bell tents, &c., had 
 their visitors ; and no people more than the Russians 
 proved their immediate attachment to us, by making it 
 a rule not to disoblige any one who asked the favour of 
 their company. Rather than do this, they preferred 
 staying a week, a fortnight, or even a month. This I, 
 as well as some of my friends, had the felicity of expe- 
 riencing, as often the whole family — father, mother, 
 sons and daughters, horse, cart, and dogs included — 
 would take un their residence with one. Most of us 
 
 JL. 
 
 made a pilgrimage to Bakschiserai, Simpheropol, Yalta, 
 and other places, after the proclamation of peace ; and, 
 to the honour and credit of the inhabitants, all were 
 received with a cordial welcome, after being first intro- 
 duced to the governor of the city. Freely indeed was 
 their hospitality bestowed, and it was our duty to return 
 the compliment by an invitation to our camp, which 
 seldom failed to be accepted, and shortly after put in 
 execution, after the style above mentioned. 
 
 Justice must also be done to the Tartar families whom 
 we visited, for their liberality and friendship. I never saw 
 .a man more put out than one near Bakschiserai on an 
 occasion when a friend and myself had entered a house in 
 order to obtain some refreshment. We there found a very 
 numerous family, among which were three small children, 
 from three to ten years of age. The father, who was an 
 old man, made us understand by telegraphic signs, a la 
 Tartar e, that he, and he alone, was the father, which we 
 
414 
 
 A CHAEMING INCIDENT. 
 
 had not the slightest objection to believe. Two rather 
 good-looking girls, also daughters, waited attentively 
 upon us, and in less than ten minutes a frugal repast 
 was offered. The old man and his rather young wife 
 gave us to understand that they had laid before us the 
 best they had, for which we, by telegraphic signs, made 
 them comprehend that we were quite pleased and very 
 grateful. When we had satisfied our appetites, we made 
 ready to start, and offered to pay for the accommodation 
 we had received : but scarcely had the English sovereign 
 fallen upon the stone slab before the old father, who was 
 nursing the two youngest scions of his race upon his 
 knees, than he rose up with a spring, dropped the 
 children on the floor, and stroking his long white hair 
 with one hand, made a sign for the sovereign to be 
 immediately returned to the pocket with the other, as if 
 he feared that the heaven towards which his eyes were 
 directed would punish him for violating the laws of 
 hospitality if he accepted the money. We did as he 
 desired, and peace and friendship were at once restored. 
 It was a scene worthy of the Dame Blanche of Boieldieu, 
 taken from Sir Walter Scott’s Monastery , where the 
 Highland farmer says to travellers like ourselves, “ The 
 Scotch mountaineers dispense their hospitality, but never 
 sell it.” 
 
 Soon after this charming incident had occurred, we 
 left our generous host and his fine family in their 
 peaceable dwelling. This love of hospitality did not 
 prevail amongst the retail dealers, who, on the contrary, 
 endeavoured to fleece visitors in every possible way, as if 
 anxious to get one’s skin in order to sell it for what it 
 would fetch. As curiosity had allured us thus far into- 
 the bowels of the land, and as we were not particular 
 about trifles, even in money matters, on this auspicious 
 occasion, these human vultures were permitted to gorge 
 themselves at our expense and that of our pockets. 
 Champagne was sold at a pound and more the bottle,, 
 stout at ten shillings, and everything else at the same 
 exorbitant rate, but by way of compensation all was of 
 an inferior quality. 
 
415 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 HOSTILITIES AT TABLE. 
 
 Culinary education of tlie soldier-pupils — Meeting with Miss 
 Nightingale — Reforms in the hospitals — Testimonials — Miss 
 Nightingale’s carriage rescued — That lady’s exertions — Her faith 
 — General Luders’s visits — Marshal Pelissier — Grand ceremonies 
 — Trip to Yalta — The Alar — A peculiar position — Rescued at last 
 — A pleasant excursion — Prince Woronzoff’s palace — Dinner at 
 sea — Outside the harbour — The banquet — Wanted at head- 
 quarters — A new dish — “ The great Macedoine a 1’ Alexandre II., 
 or the Contrast of Peace and War” — Decorations — Reviews — 
 The festival — Reflections. 
 
 As two or three months had still to elapse before the 
 final evacuation of the Crimea took place, I employed 
 the interval in completing the culinary education of my 
 soldier-pupils, anxious that they might be able to confer 
 the benefit of my instructions upon others, when the 
 remainder of the stoves should be issued either at home 
 or abroad. By the aid of my receipts, which were to be 
 printed upon parchment, framed, and hung up in every 
 barrack kitchen, the cooks could not fail in the proper 
 performance of their duties. I very much regret that, 
 owing to some misunderstanding, one or two regiments 
 did not receive my personal attendance, though I believe 
 they had the stoves. To the colonels of those regiments 
 I beg to offer this as an apology for the apparent neglect, 
 which I assure those gentlemen I can only attribute to 
 some oversight on the part of those I employed to see 
 the stoves shifted from one regiment to the other. It 
 was no easy matter to traverse such an immense space of 
 ground, upon which above forty regiments were en- 
 camped; and the difficulty was increased by my having 
 to deal with different persons in each. Although I had 
 several of my own men to go about and assist me, I 
 
416 
 
 FUESH LABOUUS. 
 
 was tlie responsible person; and all I have to say is, 
 that from six or seven in the morning till night, their 
 humble servant was on horseback, reviewing his va- 
 rious regiments, which, for a bad cavalier, was a great 
 exertion, especially after so severe an illness. Yet to 
 that exertion I believe I owe my recovery, as it enabled 
 me gradually to get the better of a most violent attack 
 of dysentery, which had at one time reduced me so low, 
 that the following civilian doctors, who were my neigh- 
 bours at Scutari — viz., Messrs. Burn, Howard, and 
 Fraser — were almost inclined to give me up. 
 
 Upon my arrival at Balaklava I met Miss Nightin- 
 gale, who had left Scutari a few days previous to my 
 departure from that place, in order to take the manage- 
 ment of two new hospitals, under the superintendence 
 of Dr. Taylor, my Scutari culinary friend. He told me 
 that, to his sorrow, he had completely failed in the con- 
 struction of the kitchen in those Crimean hospitals, on 
 account of not being able to obtain the necessary uten- 
 sils, &c. I immediately proposed to set this to rights 
 for him, as I had to build two new extra-diet kitchens 
 at Miss Nightingale’s request. Dr. Taylor accepted 
 my offer, and in less than a week both kitchens 
 were satisfactorily completed, and they were also in 
 full activity. In the extra-diet kitchens Miss Night- 
 ingale’s new stoves were adopted. The establishment 
 called the Left Wing Hospital was in charge of the 
 Sisters of Charity; the other, called the Right Wing, in 
 that of Miss Stuart, a most excellent lady, and although 
 of high family, subordinate to Miss Nightingale. During 
 a period of six months, she rendered the greatest service, 
 by ably assisting that lady in her exertions. 
 
 I substituted my caldrons for the old ones in the large 
 hospital kitchens. Slight wooden sheds were built to 
 shelter them ; and the establishments, at last complete, 
 formed two of the most elegant, cleanly, and useful hos- 
 pital kitchens in the camp — burning but little wood, 
 instead of always running short, as was the case when the 
 common caldrons, placed upon two stones in a dark stone 
 building which could never be kept clean, were in use. 
 
miss nightingale’s carriage. 
 
 417 
 
 They met with the approval of both Drs. Hall and Taylor. 
 I explained to these gentlemen, that with those stoves 
 and a few planks, an excellent hospital or camp-kitchen 
 could easily be made, instead of the very inferior ones 
 before in use ; and that for an army of a hundred 
 thousand men or more, it would only be necessary to 
 increase the number, as the stoves would never get out 
 of repair, and might easily be carried with the army, 
 either on mules, or by any other conveyance which the 
 Land Transport Corps might adopt. 
 
 The two following letters confirm the truth of my 
 assertions. The one is from Miss Nightingale, and the 
 other from Dr. Taylor : — 
 
 Scutari Barrack Hospital, July 28t7i, 1856. 
 
 I have great pleasure in bearing my testimony to the very essential 
 usefulness of Monsieur Soyer, who, first in the General Hospitals of 
 Scutari, and afterwards in the Camp Hospitals of the Crimea, both 
 general and regimental, restored order where all was unavoidable 
 confusion, as far as he was individually able, — took the soldiers’ 
 rations and patients’ diets as they were, and converted them into 
 wholesome and agreeable food. 
 
 I have tried his stoves in the Crimean hospitals where I have 
 been employed, and found them answer every purpose of economy 
 and efficiency. Florence Nightingale. 
 
 Monsieur Soyer’s cooking-stoves have been solely used in the Bight 
 and Left Wing Hospitals, Light Infantry Corps, during the last three 
 months for the regimental hospital diets, for which they are admi- 
 rably adapted as regards despatch, cleanliness, and economy. 
 
 G. Taylor, M.D., ^ 
 
 Crimea , 5 th July , 1856. S. Bury eon, 1st Class . 
 
 It was on the way to these hospitals that the vehicle 
 conveying Miss Nightingale and her nurses was upset, 
 and they all had a most miraculous escape. It was drawn 
 by a mule, and no doubt driven by a donkey, who drove 
 over a large stone, and thus caused the accident. 
 
 One of the nurses was severely wounded. After this 
 accident, Colonel Macmurdo gave Miss Nightingale the 
 carriage, a sketch of which appeared in the Illustrated 
 London Neivs of the 80th August, 1856. Upon leav- 
 ing the Crimea, after a long search, I succeeded in res- 
 cuing it from the hands of some Tartar Jews, as I con- 
 
 E E 
 
418 
 
 RESCUED FROM THE JEWS. 
 
 sidered it a precious relic for present and future genera- 
 tions. The Jews were going to purchase it the next day 
 among a lot of common carts, harness, horses, &c. I 
 called upon Colonel Evans, of the Light Infantry 
 Corps, and spoke to him upon the subject, when he 
 kindly allowed me to purchase it. I sent it to England 
 by the Argo , and the sketch was taken on board that 
 ship by Landells, the artist of that journal. It arrived 
 and was safely landed at Southampton; and Mr. Andrews, 
 the mayor of that city, very kindly allowed the carriage 
 to remain in his warehouse till my return to England. 
 
 The extraordinary exertions Miss Nightingale im- 
 posed upon herself after receiving this carriage would 
 have been perfectly incredible, if not witnessed by many 
 and well ascertained. I can vouch for the fact, having 
 frequently accompanied her to the hospitals as well as to 
 the monastery. The return from these places at night 
 was a very dangerous experiment, as the road led across 
 a very uneven country. It was still more perilous when 
 snow was upon the ground. I have seen that lady stand 
 for hours at the top of a bleak rocky mountain near the 
 hospitals, giving her instructions, while the snow was 
 
miss nightingale’s devotion. 
 
 419 
 
 falling heavily. I observed this to the Rev. Mr. Holt, 
 who accompanied her almost daily as her clerical orderly, 
 as he called himself, and he admitted that it was very 
 imprudent on her part. All one could say to her on the 
 subject was so kindly received, that you concluded you 
 had persuaded her to take more care of herself. Yet she 
 always went on in the same way, having probably for- 
 gotten good advice in her anxiety for the comfort of the 
 sick. 
 
 I often warned her of the danger she incurred in 
 returning so late at night, with no other escort than 
 the driver. She answered by a smile, which seemed to 
 say, “ You may be right, but I have faith.” So impressed 
 was I with a sense of the magnitude of the danger she 
 was daily incurring, that I addressed a letter to a noble 
 duchess, who, I knew, had much influence with her. 
 
 It was reported that the Russian general, Ltiders, in- 
 tended to pay Marshal Pelissier a visit at the French head- 
 quarters, and that the general and his Staff were to be 
 received at the Tchernaya Bridge at seven in the morn- 
 ing. As I had that day to go to the Highland Brigade 
 at Kamara, accompanied by one of my cooks, we started 
 at five ; and after receiving the popottes at the various 
 regiments, I left my artiste and galloped to the bridge. 
 
 I found about thirty thousand troops drawn up in 
 line, extending from the bridge to General Pelissier’s 
 head-quarters. After the salvo of artillery, a most warm 
 reception was given by General MacMahon to General 
 Liiders, both commanders-in-chief remaining at the 
 French head-quarters to receive him. The cavalcade, 
 consisting of French and Russians, set off at a hard 
 gallop along the line of French troops, which ex- 
 tended about four miles. The discharges of cannon and 
 the firing of musketry never ceased. The day was a 
 brilliant one, and the sun’s rays glittered upon the hel- 
 mets, swords, cuirasses, and bayonets, reflecting myriads 
 of diamonds in the air. The various uniforms of the 
 Staff which accompanied General Liiders, and in par- 
 ticular that of the Cosaques du Don, gave to this 
 martial and animated scene an eclat hardly ever wit- 
 
420 GENERAL PELISSIER^S RECEPTION. 
 
 nessed even at the grandest review, which is generally 
 held on a flat surface, this being cheerfully accidented 
 by hillock and dale. On such occasions, the army is 
 generally formed in square, instead of being in a long 
 line eight files deep on one side only, as on the occasion 
 to which I now refer. The reception by General Pelissier 
 was brilliant, and worthy of that offered to him on the 
 Mackenzie Heights a few days previous. 
 
 Amongst the excursions we had projected was one 
 which had been some time pending. It was to be a trip 
 to Yalta by water, where we intended to spend a couple 
 of days. A vessel had been provided, the provisions were 
 ordered, and guests in abundance were invited. A series 
 of fine days had followed, and the whole management 
 was placed in the hands of the person with whom the 
 idea of the excursion originated, the Ptev. Mr. Parker. 
 What man amongst the numbers in the Crimea did not 
 know that distinguished, enterprising, and worthy man ? 
 His fame extended far and wide, and he was equally 
 celebrated for his benevolence and intelligence ; and he 
 never saw a difficulty in anything he undertook, from 
 the building of a church to an hospital, a hut, kitchen, or 
 an ice-house. Workmen and materials were found by him, 
 people hardly knew how or where. Under his clerical 
 wand, wooden palaces were erected, not without diffi- 
 culty, but still the work was accomplished. If any 
 good provisions arrived in the harbour, the worthy 
 minister was the first to hear of it, and, to oblige his 
 friends, made all inquiries and obtained every information 
 respecting price and quality. Like all clever men, he 
 was fond of good living, and was not at all a bad judge 
 of the good things of this life. It was during the time 
 that he officiated at Balaklava, that the church, which 
 once had the appearance of a barn, was changed into a 
 handsome religious edifice. Sebastopol had fallen, and, 
 as a trophy, one of the bells of the Greek church orna- 
 mented his building, and called the faithful to their duty 
 as regularly as the peal of any parish church. He was, 
 in fact, the perfection of the aumonier du regiment ; but, 
 as in the case of all great geniuses, now and then, 
 
AN ANTICIPATED EXCURSION. 
 
 421 
 
 success was followed by failure, and victory by defeat — * 
 which the following will prove. 
 
 The day for the excursion had been fixed, postponed, 
 and was again decided upon. For this change of plan I 
 cannot account ; no doubt it was owing to some unavoid- 
 able cause. At length the day was finally settled ; there 
 was to be no more postponing — off we must go. Our 
 vessel was called the Alar , and she belonged to Mr. 
 Crockford. As she was very small and short of accom- 
 modation, she was soon filled above and below. The 
 evening before we were to start, the news of a great 
 event for the following day was published in General 
 Orders. It was to the effect that General Liiders would 
 honour General Codrington with his presence at a grand 
 review. This favour was not so highly appreciated by 
 the nautical tourists as by their gallant Commander-in- 
 chief, as at that time it materially interfered with their 
 anticipated excursion. At all events, a serious discussion 
 took place as to whether the excursion would or would 
 not be postponed on that account. The answer “ would 
 not !” resounded in the camp from regiment to regiment, 
 like a mot d’ordre , and the final order to all was, not to 
 be on board a minute after eight o’clock ; but the Alar, by 
 way of punctuality, started at half-past seven. I sent 
 two of my cooks to the vessel, but they never saw any- 
 thing of the boat. A few minutes before eight o’clock, 
 the Rev. Mr. Parker, myself, and others, got into a 
 Maltese boat to join the steamer ; instead of which, 
 the steamer joined us. Not thanking either the Alar 
 nor her captain for their trouble in coming to us 
 instead of allowing us to go to them, the reverend gen- 
 tleman and three more bravely boarded her, and in so 
 doing kicked our bark away, and left us, in consequence 
 of the swell caused by the motion of the paddle-wheels, 
 very unsafely dancing an entirely new hornpipe in the 
 harbour of Balaklava. At last, by the assistance of a 
 large wave which nearly capsized us all, I managed to 
 get hold of the man-rope by one hand; this happened to 
 be the left one, so I could not raise myself on board, and 
 there I was left hanging over the infuriated waves, the 
 
422 
 
 A PLEASANT POSITION. 
 
 vessel all the while increasing her speed. As a precaution 
 in walking through the wet fields, I had put on my 
 India-rubber boots, which dipping in the water, soon 
 became as slippery as a second-hand leech which will not 
 take or bite at anything. The confusion on board the 
 vessel, already a wreck, having been just dismasted in a 
 serious collision with a larger steamer, prevented the 
 people on board from perceiving my perilous position. 
 My strength was rapidly becoming exhausted, and I must 
 in a second or two have fallen into the water, when a 
 reverend gentleman, whose name I regret to say I cannot 
 recall, saw the imminent danger in which I was placed, 
 and rescued me. Thanks to his assistance, I managed to 
 lay hold of another rope with my right hand. I fancied 
 I could travel miles in that position, it appeared to be so 
 safe. Other assistance arrived, and a few minutes after 
 I was hauled upon deck, scrambling amongst the wreck 
 and loose ropes. A friendly voice addressed me with, 
 “ Hallo, Soyer ! you are behind time.” 
 
 I replied, “ I should have preferred being later still, 
 and not have come at all.” 
 
 When the incident was known on board, it caused 
 much merriment among our fellow-adventurers. As we 
 were going on pleasure, all were allowed to laugh at the 
 various adventures, as well as misadventures, of the party; 
 so I laughed, and all laughed, soon afterwards, and very 
 heartily. We were no sooner out of the harbour, than 
 the good ship Alar , which had not received her proper 
 quantum of breakfast or ballast in her wooden or iron 
 stomach, began her hanky-panky rolling tricks, which 
 never ceased from the time we started till our return. 
 Breakfast was ready and upon the table ; but, for some 
 unaccountable reason, no one appeared ready for breakfast. 
 As we were out upon a pleasure excursion, each person 
 was at liberty to enjoy himself in his own way. Some 
 did this by remaining upon deck, others by looking over- 
 board, &c., till at length the generous sun, taking pity 
 upon us, threw out his beams and guided us round the 
 beautiful rocky coast of the Balaklava and Lukan shores. 
 A few glasses of champagne were circulated, healths were 
 
CAUGHT IN A SQUALL. 
 
 423 
 
 pledged, and everything got cheerful and lively ; and the 
 joy had even extended to some of the ladies on board. 
 
 Indeed, reader, I have not yet had time to introduce 
 our fair companions to your notice; but I will do so 
 shortly. Some of them actually went so far as to ask 
 me what I thought was good for dinner. “ Upon my 
 word,” said I to my fair interlocutor, “ I do not know 
 what will be good, madam, but 141 tell you what will be 
 bad. Look behind you at that black cloud which seems 
 to follow us so closely : I have no doubt that is a squall 
 coming, which will soon spoil our bill of fare as well as 
 our appetites.” 
 
 In about half-an-hour we came in sight of the beauti- 
 ful Palace of Lukan, belonging to Prince Woronzoff. A 
 short time before, we had anticipated landing and being 
 able to dine in the gardens. This was rendered impos- 
 sible, as the weather had assumed a very tempestuous 
 aspect, and bore every appearance of a violent storm. 
 Many began to think of a second wreck, and quite lost 
 the idea of dining. The steamer was put about in a very 
 unsociable gale of wind, which, thank God, dropped 
 shortly after, and allowed us, after several attempts, to 
 Return safely to our harbour. This, considering the 
 state the Alar was in after the accident she had met 
 with, she ought not to have left, especially upon a 
 pleasure-trip. 
 
 My friend, Mr. Frederick Crockford, who so kindly 
 lent his boat, assisted me, and we set to work during 
 our stormy return to prepare the dinner, which we had 
 decided should be got ready, although almost every one 
 on board was ill. So we began our fantastic and gym- 
 nastic culinary exertions by looking up the stores ; and 
 by dint of a wonderful amount of animal and physical 
 perseverance, we managed to dish up two turkeys, a 
 number of fowls, hams, roast lamb, tongues, roast beef, 
 plum-puddings, salad, dessert, &c. &c., and cut bread 
 enough for more than a discretion . The reader will please 
 to observe that it was by this time late in the afternoon, 
 and that the Alar sylph was rolling quite sufficiently to 
 prevent any willing turkey from remaining upon the dish. 
 
424 
 
 OUR WELCOME REPAST. 
 
 when a tremendous wave came to its aid, and sent three 
 parts of our luxuries rolling about the cabin-floor, break- 
 ing no end of plates, dishes, bottles, glasses, &c. Fortu- 
 nately, our dinner was not lost, as we knew where it 
 was — rolling to and fro on the wet cabin-floor, playing 
 at the don’ t -you- wish -y ou - m ay - ge t- m e game. Mr. Crock- 
 ford and myself had succeeded in making a semi-monster 
 lobster salad, which for safety he had held on to all the 
 time, almost at the peril of his valuable life, he being 
 knocked about fearfully against the cabin-boards and 
 bulkheads. At last we made the harbour. It was nearly 
 dusk ; and not being expected back so soon, nor even the 
 next day, we were kept dancing for above an hour at the 
 entrance. No doubt, this was done to sharpen our ap- 
 petites. 
 
 A rumour was circulated that we should not be al- 
 lowed to enter at all, the Alar being a merchant-vessel. 
 This was our fate till about six o’clock, when signals 
 were made for her to enter. We availed ourselves 
 of this permission, and in twenty minutes the two 
 large tables were set out a la mariniere. Everybody was 
 glad to partake of the most welcome repast ever 
 bestowed upon a party after the enjoyment of so 
 charming a day of pleasure. The salade mayonnaise 
 was voted excellent. Champagne was gaily flowing in 
 bowls, basins, teacups, goblets, &c. Healths were pro- 
 posed ; her Majesty’s first — next that of the Allied 
 armies — then that of the Emperor of the French, Mr. 
 Crockford’s and mine, in honour of the salade mayonnaise ; 
 and a vote of thanks was returned to the Rev. Mr. 
 Parker, for the extremely pleasant day he had been the 
 cause of our enjoying, especially the dinner in the har- 
 bour he had so well provided, which soon made us forget 
 our nautical tribulations. 
 
 I have almost forgotten the members of the fair sex, 
 whose health was proposed in the first place. They had been 
 very ill all day. About eleven, all, except myself, had left 
 the Alar in the full conviction of having enjoyed them- 
 selves very much indeed. Among the party, which would 
 have been far too numerous, had not circumstances pre- 
 
A MIDNIGHT SUMMONS. 
 
 4£5 
 
 vented many of those invited from making their appear- 
 ance, were Commissary Drake, lady and daughter ; Mr. 
 and Mrs. Burnett. Lady Seymour and friend, who were 
 to accompany the party, did not come. This is the sum- 
 total of the ladies present, which for the Crimea was a 
 very fair array of the lean sexe. As it was impossible 
 for me to return to camp that evening, the captain and 
 Mr. Crockford offered me a bed on board. I of course 
 jumped at the offer. About one o’clock we were drinking 
 a parting glass, when a boat was heard approaching the 
 vessel, and a voice called out — 
 
 “ Alar ahoy ! Is Monsieur Soyer still on board?” 
 
 “ Yes,” was the answer. 
 
 In a few seconds, a gentleman, whom I recognised as 
 my friend Captain Brown of the Ottowa , stepped on 
 board. 
 
 “ Hallo, captain !” I exclaimed, “ what ever has brought 
 vou on board at this time of night ?” 
 
 “ I will tell you. They have sent for you from head- 
 quarters, and you have been sought in all directions. 
 Captain Ponsonby has been looking everywhere for you. 
 A grand dejeuner is to be given to-morrow in honour of 
 General Liiders’ visit. I happened to hear of it where I 
 dined and knowing the Alar had returned with you on 
 board, I have come to inform you that your aid is re- 
 quired. By the bye, you were suspended a long time 
 this morning between wind and water : I made so sure 
 you could not hold on much longer, that I had one of my 
 sailors ready to jump over and pick you up.” 
 
 cc Thanks, captain, for two eminent services in one day. 
 I cannot, however, go to head-quarters till morning, as 
 I have no pony at Balaklava.” 
 
 “ All right,” said he. “ Call upon Major Ross in the 
 morning ; he will let you have all you require.” 
 
 “ At daybreak I will be there.” 
 
 Ci Mind, the lunch is to be ready at two o’clock.” 
 
 “ I shall not be able to assist much, as there will 
 hardly be time to turn round. However, good-night, cap- 
 tain, and a thousand thanks.” 
 
 u I’m off in a few hours for Constantinople,” he called 
 
426 
 
 A MONSTER SALAD. 
 
 out from liis boat, “ and shall be back in a week. Good- 
 
 bye” 
 
 The sentinels, as usual, cried — “Al?s well." I must 
 say, I did not think it was all well with me. “ What can 
 I do," said I to myself, “ for an event of historical im- 
 portance?" Neither Mr. Crockford nor the captain could 
 assist me, when an idea struck me : — “ If you can't give 
 me an idea," said I to my friends, “ at any rate lend me 
 a dish." 
 
 “That I will," said the captain. 
 
 “ Recollect, I want a large one." 
 
 “ You had the largest for your salad yesterday." 
 
 “ That one will do ; it will hold enough for twenty- 
 five persons. 
 
 “ Then here goes," said I, writing. “ To-day I shall 
 dress in it the Macedoine Ludersienne a V Alexandre II” 
 
 “ A very good name in honour of the event," said Mr. 
 Crockford. “ But pray, of what is it to be composed ?" 
 
 “ Oh ! for that," said I, “ if I were to implore the Genius 
 of Gastronomy, from Lucullus to Apicius and Yitellius, or 
 Yatel to Ude and Careme, I could get nothing from them 
 but inspiration ; while what I require is something sub- 
 stantial, and not artificial. It strikes me that a word 
 from you to your head man at Ivadikoi (as you will not 
 be there to-morrow) would do more for me in a few 
 minutes than the whole of those defunct celebrities, whom 
 I am not now inclined to trouble upon so material a 
 subject. Pray give me carte blanche to get anything 
 you may have and I require for the composition of this 
 modern Babylon, which must be constructed upon a base 
 sufficiently strong to resist the joint attack of the heads of 
 three of the most powerful armies in the world, and only 
 be destroyed after having conquered the conqueror's 
 place d’armes , the stomach, so called in military parlance." 
 
 The order was readily given by my friend Mr. Crock- 
 ford, and we then lay down to sleep, being both completely 
 exhausted with the fatigues of what was called a day of 
 pleasure. We had hardly closed our eyelids, when morn- 
 ing caused them to be reopened; so up we got. My 
 friend started for Constantinople, and I for head-quarters. 
 
CULINARY EMBLEM OE PEACE. 
 
 427 
 
 On my way I called upon Major Ross, who kindly lent 
 me a pony, and told me of the message left with him. 
 I started immediately — bought a few things in Bala- 
 klava market — called at Crockford’s store at Donnybrook, 
 which I ransacked and despoiled of condiments of every 
 description. Instead of going direct to head-quarters, 
 I changed my mind and went home to prepare, having 
 decided, as the time was so short, to produce one good dish 
 only, instead of several small and insignificant ones. 
 This was, however, to be worthy of the occasion. I was 
 well aware that General Codrington’s cook, under the 
 liberal management and command of Captain Ponsonby, 
 would turn out something worthy of the event. Upon 
 arriving at my hut, I sent two of my cooks to assist 
 him, despatched my groom on horseback to Kamiesch 
 for various things, and then began the construction of 
 my Ludersienne upon the lid of my new field-stoves, the 
 dish I had brought from the Alar being too small. 
 
 My novel dish was completed, and carried to head- 
 quarters by two soldiers ; and at a quarter to two I per- 
 sonally placed my culinary wonder upon the table. It 
 was called 
 
 SOYER^S CULINARY EMBLEM OE PEACE, 
 The Macedoine Ludersienne a V Alexandre II. 
 This monster dish was composed of — 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 boxes of preserved lobsters 
 cases „ lampreys 
 
 cases „ sardines 
 
 bottles „ anchovies 
 case „ caviar 
 
 case „ sturgeon 
 
 case „ thunny 
 
 cases „ oysters 
 
 pound of fresh prawns 
 pounds turbot cloute 
 12 Russian pickled cucumbers 
 4 bottles „ olives 
 1 bottle mixed pickles 
 1 bottle Indian ditto 
 
 1 bottle pickled French beans 
 
 2 bottles „ mushrooms 
 ■I bottle 
 
 mangoes 
 
428 
 
 NATIONAL FLAGS. 
 
 2 bottles of pickled French truffles 
 2 cases of preserved peas 
 2 cases „ mixed vegetables 
 
 4 dozen cabbage lettuces 
 100 eggs 
 
 2 bottles of preserved cockscombs. 
 
 The sauce was composed of six bottles of salad oil, one of Tarragon 
 vinegar, half a bottle of Chili vinegar, two boxes of preserved cream 
 (whipped), four ounces of sugar, six eschalots, salt, cayenne pepper, 
 mustard, and a quarter of an ounce of Oriental herbs which are quite 
 unknown in England. 
 
 The dining-room, decorated under the artistic super- 
 intendence of Captain Ponsonby, presented a ravishing 
 ensemble well adapted to the occasion. It was hung, 
 ceiling and all, with the Allied flags, to which the 
 Russian standard, so long absent, had been happily 
 reinstated in the bond of friendship and civilization. 
 Those few pieces of printed cloth spoke volumes to my 
 mind. These adopted colours of different nations had 
 not waved together for a long while, and their playful 
 movements, caused by a fresh breeze, which seemed to 
 have purified itself in passing swiftly over the cheerful 
 vineyard attached to head-quarters, pleased me very 
 much.* The god of war had put his seal and autograph 
 upon them, just in the same manner as we see a name 
 upon a bank-note, which only acquires value from national 
 convenience and conventionality. Still these rags, which 
 the will of mighty empires had favoured with their high 
 regard, were so proud of their post, that they appeared 
 to float and flutter in the air with more grandeur than a 
 common piece of stuff just brought from the loom, as 
 was the case with them before their glorious national 
 christening, would have done. They appeared as proud 
 and superior to their brothers and sisters as a race-horse 
 is to one of his less fortunate fellows — a cart-horse. 
 
 I was left almost alone in that ever-memorable spot 
 (every one having gone to the review), giving the last 
 coup-cVoeil , with Captain Ponsonby and the maitre 
 
 * A few hundred yards further, where the French review had 
 taken place, on an ill- selected spot, the dust was blinding both to 
 men and horses, the wind being very high. 
 
A BRILLIANT ASSEMBLAGE. 
 
 429 
 
 d’hotel, to the well-provided table. The illustrious 
 guests were momentarily expected. Y olumes, indeed, could 
 I read in those printed sheets — symbols and emblems of 
 glory. Upon them seemed engraved, in letters of gold, 
 “ IAinion fait la force,” and “ Regeneration instead of 
 destruction !” Such were my sentiments on that memo- 
 rable occasion. The world at large was interested in 
 this mighty fusion; the end of this grand drama I 
 could plainly read, though merely printed upon pieces of 
 common calico. 
 
 Professionally, I was doubly proud of the honour of 
 contributing my mite of industry to this California of 
 grandeur and great events. My monster Macedoine was 
 placed in the centre of the table, and, though only a few 
 persons were present, was much admired. “In a few 
 minutes,” said I to myself, “those great men whose 
 names are echoed and re-echoed throughout the world 
 by the trumpet-blast of fame will be here, not only 
 gazing upon my impromptu chef-d’oeuvre , but, I hope, 
 also freely partaking of it — and, while enjoying the 
 pleasures of the table, cementing the sentiments of peace 
 and of friendship.” 
 
 So much was my mind absorbed by the superficial, 
 that I had almost forgotten the material. The words, 
 “the review is over, and the generals are coming,” 
 recalled my wandering senses. A gorgeous cavalcade 
 was seen approaching, headed by four generals-in-chief 
 in full uniform, and their respective Staffs, wearing their 
 decorations, followed by above thirty generals. A few 
 minutes after, I was attending upon Generals Pelissier, 
 Liiders, and Sir W. Codrington, who were sitting to- 
 gether — General Pelissier on the left and General Liiders 
 on the right of Sir William. The following persons were 
 sitting at the same table : — General della Marmora and 
 Sir Colin Campbell were facing ; and at the same table sat 
 Admiral Freemantle ; Generals MacMahon, Martinprey, 
 Wyndham, Garrett, Barnard, Lord Rokeby, Lord W. 
 Paulet, Cameron ; Colonels Scariatini and M. Amazzoff, 
 aides-de-camp to General Liiders ; and the aides of the 
 other generals. 
 
430 
 
 GRAND TRIUMPH. 
 
 My anticipations were realized; for no sooner had the 
 guests taken their seats than the conversation became 
 more animated. I had placed at the apex of my pyra- 
 midal Macedoine a small card; with the dedication written 
 upon it. Sir W. Codrington handed it to General LiiderS; 
 who; after showing it to several of his suite; requested 
 permission to keep it as a reminiscence of the day. This 
 request was granted by Sir William with a smile. 
 
 The entrees; roasts; and the entremets had been handed 
 round; and a serious attack upon my Liidersienne 
 commenced; almost every guest partaking of it twice. 
 Captain Ponsonby requested me to remove it; as several 
 gentlemen at the other table wished to taste it. General 
 Pelissiei; with whom I had the honour of conversing 
 longer than with any one else; was in an excellent 
 humour; and full of that vivacity and wit so charac- 
 teristic. He bantered me several times for not having 
 stoned the olives which formed part of the Macedoine. 
 1 told him that time would not permit of this; as I had 
 received such short notice of the banquet; and that I 
 went the evening before on an excursion by water to 
 Lukan. At the same time; I expressed my regret to Sir 
 William at not being at home when sent for. 
 
 “ Never mind; Monsieur Soyer/ ; replied Sir William. 
 “ I am; at all events; very happy to see you here; and 
 thank you kindly for your exertions.” 
 
 General Pelissier again addressed me : “ You may say 
 what you like; Monsieur Soyer; but you might as well 
 have stoned the olives.” 
 
 “Very true; general; if time had allowed. It is all 
 very well for you to take the Malakhoff in a few minutes; 
 but it took me four hours to make that dish.” At which 
 reply he could not help laughing. 
 
 “ Your friend General Barnard;” said he, point- 
 ing to that officer; who was sitting at the bottom of 
 the table; “ would like to taste it. Go and offer him 
 some.” 
 
 I did so; but the general had been served. I then 
 made a tour round the table; asking each guest; above 
 thirty in number; whether he had been attended to. 
 
THE LAST REVIEW. 
 
 431 
 
 The time was getting short, and another review — that 
 of the English army — had to come off. The iced 
 champagne had performed a grand role during the 
 repast; all seemed highly gratified and full of anima- 
 tion. What a burst of enthusiasm was elicited when 
 General Liiders rose, and proposed the health of her 
 Majesty the Queen of England and that of the French 
 Emperor ! which enthusiasm was renewed when Sir 
 William Codrington responded by proposing that of the 
 Emperor Alexander. 
 
 The mot cVorclre was given, and all were soon mounted, 
 and proceeded to the review, at which, having ter- 
 minated my culinary duties, I assisted as a spectator, 
 arriving just time enough to have a glance at the 
 spectacle, which to my mind was superior in point 
 of effect to that of the magnificent French army in 
 the morning. It was in a splendid square; while the 
 French army, though more numerous, being in a line, 
 covered more ground, but produced less effect. I re- 
 marked this to General della Marmora, with whom I 
 was conversing. He seemed to be of my opinion. The 
 Scotch, with their bagpipes merrily playing, were then 
 filing past the Etat- Major, and the vibrating sounds 
 of their wild mountain music impressed itself for ever on 
 my ear. It was their last song on the Crimean shore. 
 A few minutes more, and all was over. General Liiders 
 entered his carriage, and started full gallop, followed by 
 his Staff. General Codrington and suite lined the fields 
 on either side the road along which the carriage passed. 
 On reaching the Balaklava road, which crosses the high 
 mountain leading to the Guards’ camp, the Russian 
 general made a full stop ; so did Sir W. Codrington and 
 suite. They bade each other adieu; and after General 
 Liiders had returned thanks for the excellent reception 
 he had received, Sir William said, “ I hope, general, you 
 are not over-tired?” 
 
 “ No, not at all, thank you. I only felt rather cold 
 standing still during the last review.” 
 
 This was spoken in French. 
 
 The Russian cavalcade galloped away towards the 
 
432 
 
 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 Tchernaya, whilst tl^e English returned to head- 
 quarters. 
 
 It was getting quite dark; the weather, which had 
 been so warm in the morning, turned very cold — the 
 sky looked grey, and not a soul was to be seen. I 
 ascended the rocky and steep mountain on horseback. 
 A few minutes after, I was in lonely solitude on the top 
 of the plateau. Not a sign of life was to be seen or 
 heard ; graveyards alone ornamented this desolate spot. 
 
 “ What a curious life mine is V 9 said I, musing. 
 “ Compare the last forty-eight hours with the time 
 when I was hanging by one hand, suspended between 
 life and death, from the man-rope of the Alar , in 
 the harbour of Balaklava.” It reminded me of a rocket, 
 which, while soaring brightly in its flight towards the 
 sky, shines radiant for a few seconds only, and then 
 vanishes in space. 
 
433 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIY. 
 
 CRIMEAN FESTIVITIES. 
 
 Catlicart’s Hill deserted — The Madrigal Club — Mrs. Seacole again 
 — Sally the Egyptian beauty — The dark maid of the Eastern War 
 — The Land Transport Corps Hospital — Conversation with Miss 
 Nightingale — Quiet at head-quarters — General Barnard’s enter- 
 tainment — Visit from three Russian officers — Strange conduct — 
 Visits — General Garrett’s disappointment — Trip to the ruins of 
 Sebastopol — A gallant cockney — A tremendous explosion — Play- 
 ing with live shells — A narrow escape — A clever trick — Another 
 accident — General Garrett’s lunch — Russian lady visitors — Bill 
 of fare — Tom Shell-proof — Arrival of the Russians — The review 
 — Grand banquet to Sir Colin Campbell — Grand dinner to General 
 dellaMarmora — Crimean cup a la Marmora — Receipt — My grand 
 festival — Preparations — Misgivings — Green inspiration — Great 
 success — List of guests — The hut on fire — Music and song — 
 Close of the last party on Cathcart’s Hill. 
 
 On reaching home, I found Cathcart’s Hill as quiet 
 and deserted as I did on the 8th of September, but 
 under less solemn circumstances, for Sebastopol had 
 then fallen — whereas now it was likely to rise again 
 like a phoenix from its ashes. The head-quarters of the 
 Fourth Division were wrapjped in deep repose. I could 
 not even wake my groom to put my small charger into 
 the stable ; but this had often occurred before, and gave 
 me the chance of learning how to attend to my own 
 horse. It is true, it was nearly twelve o’clock ; for in 
 passing the Guards’ camp I had paid several visits, and 
 the kind reception accorded would not have failed to 
 detain the greatest misanthropist till a late hour. I had 
 in particular called upon Colonel de Bathe and the 
 members of the Madrigal Club, being anxious to ascer- 
 tain from that body of artists when our great festival 
 was to take place. 
 
 E F 
 
434 
 
 VISIT TO MRS. SEACOLE. 
 
 “ To-morrow you are invited,” said Colonel de Bathe, 
 “ to dine with us at General Barnard’s, and we will 
 settle that matter there.” 
 
 Having to meet Miss Nightingale the next day at 
 the Land Transport Corps Hospital in order to accom- 
 pany her for the last time through the camp, I managed 
 to be there about ten o’clock. Miss Nightingale had not 
 arrived ; so I made an inventory of the various kitchen 
 utensils which were to be sent back to England or 
 Malta. 
 
 While I was waiting for the Sister of the Brave, I 
 made it my duty to pay my respects to the illustrious 
 Mrs. Seacole; and, like a good son or a ship in full 
 sail, I was immediately received in the arms of the mere 
 noire . On perceiving me, she exclaimed — 
 
 “ Hallo, my son ! I saw you at head-quarters yester- 
 \> > 
 
 “Did you really? I didn’t see you, Mrs. Seacole.” 
 “I dare say you did not, my son. I was amongst the 
 great dons in the vineyard, and had a very fine view of 
 the proceedings. I met all my friends there.” 
 
 “No doubt you did, Mrs. Seacole.” 
 
 “ Very kind they were, I assure you ; they all shook 
 me by the hand enough to last me for life. What do 
 you think of the Russian general. Monsieur Soyer?” 
 Before I could reply, she said, “ He is a fine man, and 
 no mistake ; is he not, my son ?” 
 
 She was in the act of dressing the wound of an 
 Army Works Corps man, who had been thrown, and 
 was cut severely in the forehead. 
 
 “What’s the matter with the poor fellow?” said I. 
 
 “ He is getting better now. What will you take to 
 drink, Monsieur Soyer?” 
 
 “ Nothing at present ; it is too early, my dear madam.” 
 “ Don’t forget, before you go, to come and take a 
 parting glass with an old friend. Mr. Day and myself 
 will be very glad to see you, depend upon it. By the 
 way, how is Miss Nightingale?” 
 
 “I thank you, she was quite well the last time I 
 had the pleasure of seeing her. I have to meet her 
 
THE EGYPTIAN BEAUTY. 
 
 435 
 
 at the Land Transport Hospital this morning, by ap- 
 pointment.” 
 
 “ What nice kitchens those are of yours at the Land 
 Transport Hospital ! I saw them several times ; and the 
 doctors and Mrs. Stuart are highly pleased with them, I 
 assure you. How nice and clean the Sisters of Charity 
 keep everything ! You may say that of both hospitals.” 
 Mrs. Seacole then said, “What nice things they prepare 
 in the extra-diet kitchens for the patients ! I tasted 
 everything. — Pray give my respects to Miss Nightingale, 
 and say, if I were not so busy I should run as far as 
 the hospital, to pay my duty to her. You must know. 
 Monsieur Soyer, that Miss Nightingale is very fond of 
 me. When I passed through Scutari, she very kindly 
 gave me board and lodging.” 
 
 This was about the twentieth time the old lady had 
 told me the same tale. Shaking her by the hand — 
 
 “ Good-bye, my son,” said she ; “ I wish you had let 
 me taste some of that fine dish you made yesterday.” 
 
 “ How could T, my dear mother ? I did not know you 
 were there.” 
 
 At this point of the conversation, the Egyptian 
 beauty, her daughter Sarah, entered. 
 
 “ My dear Sally, how are you ?” said I. “I never see 
 you in our alley now.” 
 
 “ Go along with you !” said smiling Sally ; “ you are 
 always making fun of me.” 
 
 “ Pun of you, my dear ? — never. I swear by your blue 
 eyes and black hair, that I never do. Do I, mother ?” 
 
 “ If you did, it would not matter ; a little innocent 
 mirth now and then does one good. For my part, my 
 son, I could not live without laughing.” 
 
 “ Yes ; but you told a certain colonel that it was I 
 who was dressed as a Scotchman at the French ball 
 given the other day in honour of the young Emperor.” 
 
 “ What harm is there in that ? All the great people 
 were invited, and why should you not have been there?” 
 “ Indeed, do you think mother or myself would go to 
 such a place, where the women wear soldiers’ clothes? 
 Not likely. And what soldiers? — the Scotch Brigade !” 
 
 p f 2 
 
436 
 
 INTERVIEW WITH MISS NIGHTINGALE. 
 
 We all laughed ; and I then parted, quite pleased with 
 Sally’s modesty. Sally richly deserves the title of the 
 Dark, instead of Fair, Maid of the Eastern War. 
 
 On my return to the hospital, I found Miss Nightin- 
 gale had arrived, accompanied by the chaplain, Mr. 
 Hone, who informed me that she could not possibly go 
 through the camp that day. As I was thus disengaged, 
 I called upon Mrs. Stuart, in order to inquire whether 
 she required anything in my department. To my astonish- 
 ment, she informed me that a field-stove, of which she 
 was greatly in want to heat water for the baths, had not 
 arrived. As I had sent it with the others, which had 
 reached their destination, I promised to inquire about it 
 at once, and sent my engineer, Mr. Phillips, to see after 
 it. It was, however, three days before it was found. 
 I relate this fact out of hundreds which occurred during 
 the campaign, to show the mishaps of so difficult an under- 
 taking. This I must repeat, that I was well supported 
 by the authorities, and my demands were always granted. 
 To Colonel Macmurdo, and Captains Evans and Power, I 
 am greatly indebted for their never-ceasing courtesy. 
 
 In conversation with Miss Nightingale, I did not 
 forget to mention Mrs. Seacole’s kind inquiries. She 
 -said with a smile — 
 
 “ I should like to see her before she leaves, as I hear 
 she has done a deal of good for the poor soldiers.” 
 
 “ She has indeed, I assure you, and with the greatest 
 disinterestedness. While I was there this morning, she 
 was dressing a poor Land Transport Corps man, who 
 had received a severe contusion on the head. In order 
 to strengthen his courage for the process, as she said, she 
 made him half a glass of strong brandy and water, not 
 charging him anything for it ; and I hear she has done 
 this repeatedly.” 
 
 “ I am sure she has done much good.” 
 
 I told Miss Nightingale that I had despatched Mr. 
 Phillips in search of the missing stove; and, as our 
 visit was postponed, I bade her adieu, requesting her to 
 drop me a line in the Fourth Division at any time she 
 might require my services. 
 
ALL AT A STAND-STILL. 
 
 437 
 
 That day I had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Hall, who 
 apprised me that the troops would shortly leave the 
 Crimea, and the Sanatorium be closed. The Monastery 
 was so already; and, as I had anticipated, the Land 
 Transport Corps remained the last in the field. Passing 
 to head-quarters, I found everything at a standstill. 
 The Commander-in-chief was out, the precise order of 
 the previous day seemed in abeyance, and General 
 Wyndham was sitting to a celebrated Sardinian artist 
 for his portrait. It was taken in his Redan dress, which 
 was freed from the blood and dust of that day, as I 
 think very injudiciously, which caused me to ask if it 
 was the same; the general replied that it was. I believe 
 the picture was for the King of Sardinia, to be added to 
 his Majesty’s collection of the heroes of the Crimea. 
 
 Captain Ponsonby was occupied in his open-air photo- 
 graphic studio, taking portraits of everybody who came 
 in his way, amongst them myself. Captain Hall was 
 herborizing in his petite cJiambre upon some salad cress 
 and cheroots. Colonel Blane was very busy writing and 
 giving orders. Major Curzon and others of the Staff 
 were very seriously occupied lunching. In the kitchen, 
 the stoves were cooling, and all the cooks out. At the 
 Post-office and Telegraph all seemed still. The printing 
 press alone was slowly going. 
 
 Upon returning to the dining-room, I found only a 
 few at lunch; several were smoking at the door-steps 
 — in fact, compared with the day previous, the contrast 
 was so great, that it appeared like a holiday after a 
 week’s hard labour. The conversation turned upon 
 the grandeur of the review, and the success of the enter- 
 tainment, which seemed to have given great satisfaction 
 to all. 
 
 In the evening a most charming entertainment was 
 prepared for us at General Barnard’s. The company 
 included General Rose ; the Prench general, Bombaki ; 
 Colonel de Bathe, &c. 
 
 After an excellent dinner, at which a very fine turkey 
 was the piece de resistance , — (it had been reared under 
 the farming care of Captain Barnard ; this is a valuable 
 
438 “THE RUSSIANS ARE COMING.” 
 
 quality in the Crimea : the turkey was accompanied by a 
 delicious piece of boiled ration pork, and in addition two 
 made dishes, two sweets, vegetables, &c. ; the whole 
 washed down by delicate claret cup a la Barnaby ,) — the 
 topic of conversation turned upon the great events of the 
 previous day. Perfect harmony prevailed, when suddenly 
 a warlike sound was heard round the general's wooden 
 dwelling. A friend entered, crying aloud, “ The Russians 
 — the Russians are coming !” and three Russian officers 
 immediately entered, saying they had lost their way, 
 and requesting a guide. The general's first impulse was 
 to give them hospitality, and then put them in their 
 right way. Captain Barnard got up to usher them in, 
 and soon returned with the new-comers, who, we per- 
 ceived, had not only lost their way, but also their 
 senses. Having seated themselves, the general asked 
 them what they would take. “ Tout ce que vous avez” 
 (“Everything you have,” instead of “Anything you 
 please”), one of them answered. To this the gallant general 
 demurred, not being at all desirous of having his place 
 pillaged, particularly in time of peace, after having 
 escaped that sad tribute during the war. One of them 
 was quite unmanageable : he spoke French, but was 
 not such a good scholar as the Russian nobles gene- 
 rally are; he made sad havoc with that fashionable 
 language, and used rude expressions, which were very 
 unpleasant to the party. The Russians were anxious to 
 explain what they had been doing at Kamiesch, the 
 recital of which was much too droll to be pleasant. The 
 noisiest of the party poured out a large tumbler of 
 brandy, and, before any one could stop him, swallowed 
 half of it, drinking the health of every mortal thing, 
 including the French, English, Russians, and the Turkish 
 Emperor's. One who was more rational tried to appease 
 him, but in vain. At all events, after an hour's desultory 
 conversation, owing to the great coolness of the general, 
 we got rid of them, and they mounted their waggon, 
 which was anything but a fashionable one. They were 
 going to the Mackenzie Heights, and the French general, 
 Bombaki, who was going that road, kindly undertook 
 
LICENCE. 
 
 439 
 
 to point out the way. They said that they had finished 
 twelve bottles of champagne at Kamiesch. Nice com- 
 pany this to drop in after an excellent petit diner, just as 
 we were about commencing the harmony of the evening ! 
 This strange incident completely broke up our party. We 
 fixed the great madrigal soiree at my hut for the 27 th 
 of May, hoping on that occasion to be more fortunate. 
 We afterwards heard that the Russian officers were 
 stopped at the Traktir Bridge, and locked up for a few 
 days — no doubt to give them time to get sober. 
 
 We began to hope that in case we should be visited by 
 any Czarewitchian company at our semi-grand concerto — 
 and there were plenty daily in the camp — that they would 
 call before, and not after, their visit to the then reckless 
 town of Kamiesch, at which place a friend and myself 
 had, a few days previous, witnessed several very comical 
 scenes. This was owing to the influx of visitors from 
 the different armies. It was more particularly the case 
 at the theatre, where the funniest part of the performance 
 was acted in the pit, stalls, boxes, and gallery, instead 
 of upon the stage. On one occasion, General Pelissier 
 was compelled to have a few of the new spectators boxed 
 for the night in the guard-house, in order to be allowed 
 to enjoy the privilege of his own private box. 
 
 In return for their visits to us, both French and 
 English officers daily returned the compliment, and the 
 Russians did all they could to make themselves agree- 
 able. General Garrett met with a very cordial reception 
 from Major-General Vassileffsky, who commanded after 
 the departure of General Liiders. General Garrett, in 
 return, invited him to the head-quarters of the Fourth 
 Division, which invitation was graciously accepted by 
 the Russian general. I was spending the evening with 
 General Garrett, when he observed that he wished to give 
 General Vassileffsky a lunch, but that it would be a diffi- 
 cult matter, as he had no convenience for that purpose. 
 
 “ Never mind that, general,” said I ; “ send out your 
 invitations, and leave the rest to me. A lunch for twenty 
 or thirty shall be upon your table in due time.” 
 
 “ They are coming to-morrow morning.” 
 
440 
 
 AN IMPROMPTU LUNCH. 
 
 “Rather short notice, general; but never mind, it 
 will be all right in spite of time : difficulties are common 
 enough in time of war. Pray leave the matter to Major 
 Dallas and myself — we will turn out a lunch worthy of 
 yourself and your guests.” 
 
 I immediately set to work, and in a few hours extra 
 provisions and rations had taken various shapes and 
 forms ; some were being stewed, others baked, and some 
 boiled. Everything was going on so smoothly, that 
 I almost wished the lunch had been for that day. My 
 men had returned from their daily regimental rounds, 
 and were all at work. In the midst of this, the 
 worthy general begged of me to give him a call, when 
 he informed me that he was sorry to say that the 
 Russian generaPs visit was postponed. General Sir W. 
 Codrington having invited him to head-quarters for that 
 day. 
 
 “ No matter,” said I ; “if your lunch is not postponed 
 too long, the provisions will improve, instead of deterio- 
 rating.” 
 
 “ You think so ?” 
 
 “ I am sure of it, general. All the animal food we 
 get in the camp is too fresh : the beast is no sooner 
 slaughtered than it is either in the pot, oven, or on the 
 gridiron.” 
 
 “We shall be about twenty.” 
 
 “Sol perceive, and that my name figures amongst 
 your illustrious guests. You must, however, general, 
 leave me entirely free on that occasion ; I will sit down 
 to table when I think proper.” 
 
 “ Do as you like, but you must sit down with us.” 
 
 “ On that day, general, I claim precedence, and even 
 command, over the head of your division.” 
 
 He laughed heartily, saying, “It shall be so. To- 
 morrow there is to be a review of two divisions in honour 
 of General Yassileffsky, and no doubt the lunch will come 
 off the day after.” 
 
 “Very well, general; only give me due notice, I will 
 answer for the rest. After such success at head-quarters,, 
 the Fourth Division must not fail.” 
 
A COCKNEY ZOUAYE. 
 
 441 
 
 As there was nothing more to be done, I gave my 
 people a holiday to see the ruins of Sebastopol, which 
 they had not been able to do owing to the press of 
 business. I thought I might as well go myself, as my 
 engineer, Mr. Phillips, had not seen them. The horses 
 were ordered — Mesnil and Phillips accompanied me. We 
 mounted and galloped towards the dilapidated city, which, 
 although from the hill it seems close at hand, afterwards 
 appears to recede further and further. We arrived at 
 the Ravin des Boulets — so called from the extraordinary 
 crop of that article which lay there after the ploughing 
 of that piece of land by the hand of Mars, the god of 
 iron vegetables made of solid materials. Our gallant 
 cockney Zouave, who had never smelt any other powder 
 than gunpowder tea, was quite intrepid, and he mounted 
 to the Redan as though he intended to take it by assault* 
 He was always ahead ; and no sooner had a view from that 
 far-famed historical spot, of which he had so successfully 
 taken possession, than the rage of valour seized upon 
 him; no one could arrest his progress — he bounded off 
 upon his steed several hundred yards in advance, shouting 
 in frantic enthusiasm, “ To Sebastopol ! to Sebastopol !” 
 My friend and myself were rather cooler upon the subject, 
 and trotted slowly along the ravine direct to the Mast 
 Battery. I called my invincible engineer back, telling 
 him that he was going the wrong way, as we wanted to 
 visit that battery before going into the city. He there- 
 fore returned. 
 
 “ I tell you what,” said I, “ young boiling-hot warrior 
 from Snow-hill, if you had been here this time last year, 
 you would not have charged like that ; the Russians 
 would have smashed your crown for you.” 
 
 “No doubt they would, had I given them a chance; 
 but I should have said with the coward, Peter Morrison, 
 c The time to show courage has arrived, my brave 
 fellow; let us hide ourselves/ He had scarcely perpe- 
 trated this old joke, when a tremendous explosion was 
 heard, shaking the earth under our horses* feet and almost 
 upsetting them. I made sure it was a mine that had been 
 sprung; and a few seconds after, a thick short piece of wood. 
 
442 
 
 A TERRIBLE EXPLOSION. 
 
 partially ignited, fell at about ten paces from my horse's 
 head. The animal began to kick, and we were enveloped 
 in a dense cloud of smoke smelling of powder, and so 
 thick that for a few seconds we positively could not see 
 anything. I expected that my two friends had been 
 blown into the air, and they thought that I had met 
 with the same fate. We soon perceived there was no 
 harm done. Our horses advanced a few paces ; and upon 
 turning the corner of the ravine, about ten yards in 
 advance, we perceived three sailors lying dead, as we 
 thought, and the ground about them covered with blood. 
 Two of them were screaming* : the other had one leg 
 blown to atoms, and was badly wounded in the other. 
 We lifted the man who was lying on his face, thinking 
 that he was the worst of all, when to our surprise we 
 found that he had not been touched, excepting by a few 
 fragments of his friend's limbs, which had fallen upon 
 his back. His companion was slightly wounded in four 
 places : it was a most extraordinary circumstance that 
 his trousers were torn to ribbons, and a piece of the 
 bridge of his nose was taken clean off, from which wound 
 he bled copiously. We perceived that it was not a mine, 
 but a thirteen-inch shell, which had exploded, though 
 not a vestige of it remained near the spot ; nothing but 
 a train of burnt powder about five feet long and three 
 inches wide could be seen near the poor fellows who 
 had so imprudently risked their lives. We did all we 
 could to alleviate their sufferings. It was extremely 
 awkward to meddle with the first, who remained per- 
 fectly motionless, and no hospital was near nor doctor to 
 be obtained. I gave a French soldier five shillings to 
 run to the French camp and fetch a doctor : he did 
 not succeed, but returned with a stretcher. I also sent 
 to Sebastopol, but without success. I had just tied the 
 poor fellow's leg very tight above the knee, in order to 
 stop the loss of blood, when General Dacres and a 
 number of officers who had heard the report came to 
 the spot. I told the general how the accident had 
 occurred, as it had been explained to me by the man 
 who set it going, as he called it. Although he was 
 
PLAYING WITH LIVE SHELLS. 
 
 443 
 
 nearest to the deadly missile when it exploded, he was 
 not even scratched. 
 
 The affair happened thus : — About half-way up the 
 hill they found a live shell, and for amusement, as they 
 said, rolled it about the ravine. In doing this some of 
 the powder escaped, of which one of the party made 
 a devil : this he placed on a stone. In the meantime 
 the shell had rolled some distance, leaving in its course 
 a train of powder. Not perceiving this, he set the devil 
 on fire; it communicated with the train, and ignited 
 the shell. 
 
 “ How imprudent those foolish sailors are !” said 
 General Dacres ; “ they are all alike.” 
 
 As no doctor made his appearance, the general ob- 
 served the best plan would be to convey the wounded 
 man on board the Gladiator steam-frigate : she was 
 the first foreign ship of war that had entered the 
 harbour. On our way we met two doctors who had 
 been visiting the ruins. They examined the sailor’s 
 wound, and having attended to it, followed him to 
 the Gladiators boat, which was waiting at the floating 
 bridge from the Karabelnaia to the French side. I 
 saw him on board, and the surgeon of the ship, Dr. 
 Thompson, immediately amputated his leg. The other 
 two went their way, one of them patched up in four 
 places, but able to walk. I afterwards heard from the 
 doctor that his patient was doing well, and that he 
 was a deserter, for which he would be punished. “ A 
 double gratification, doctor,” said I : “ that ; s what a 
 sailor calls a day’s spree.” 
 
 The most remarkable part of the affair was the escape 
 of the man who had set the shell a-going ; he was not 
 even scratched. The reason of this he explained thus : — 
 “ R When I had set the devil on fire, to my surprise I saw 
 the flame running towards the shell ; I expected it 
 would explode, and threw myself flat upon my face. My 
 eyes ! wasn’t it a rum ^un ! — it gave me such a blow on 
 the pate — the report, I mean — I can hardly hear now.” 
 
 That man was not four feet from the shell when it 
 exploded. I consider that we had a most miraculous 
 
444 
 
 A NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 escape, as our brave cockney observed, looking as pale as 
 though he hadn’t a drop of blood left, though generally 
 possessing a regular rubicund face, the vermilion colour 
 of which nothing but a good coat of whitewash could 
 have affected. He was, in fact, quite stupified, and 
 asked me if it was likely that another would burst. 
 “ Very likely,” said I, “if anybody sets it on fire.” 
 
 “You in particular, my young fellow,” said I, “have 
 had a narrow escape. If I had not called you back, you 
 would have been blown to atoms, as a large branch was 
 sent clean off a poplar tree near which you were standing.” 
 The wooden fusee, a piece of the other fellow’s trousers, 
 and a regular fright, were some of the trophies I gathered 
 of this sad event. 
 
 On our way home, our Snow-hill friend, who could 
 not get rid of the bomb-shell feeling, and felt rather 
 shaky, related the following clever move on the part of 
 himself and Mr. Mesnil. It occurred a few days before 
 in one of the ravines, and he almost trembled in relating 
 the anecdote. 
 
 “Ah,” said he, “you blame those poor fellows for 
 setting fire to that shell. I’ll tell you what Mr. Mesnil 
 and myself did the other day. As we were walking, we 
 found a live shell, and being anxious to ascertain whether 
 it contained those bundles of fused nails we had been 
 shown by Joseph at Stuart’s canteen in the morning, we 
 actually took up a sixty-four pound shot which was at 
 hand, and pounded the shell four or five times, in order 
 to split it, that we might inspect the contents. This did 
 not succeed, so at length we gave it up in despair.” 
 
 “ Never !” exclaimed I. 
 
 “We did, I assure you. Ask Mesnil.” 
 
 Calling him as he was riding on before, I asked him 
 if it was true. 
 
 “Don’t mention it — it’s true enough. I have been 
 thinking seriously about it ; indeed, I feel quite nervous. 
 What fools we were ! and what luck to have escaped !” 
 
 “ I nevel* heard of such a senseless trick in all my 
 life,” said I. “ Hardly any one would believe it.” 
 
 “ The danger and imprudence of the act would never 
 
ANOTHER ACCIDENT. 
 
 445 
 
 have struck me, had I not witnessed this day’s accident. 
 Let us change the conversation.” 
 
 After all, I must say it was very imprudent to leave 
 them about in that manner. The soldiers were rightly 
 enough ordered not to pick them up with the cannon- 
 balls ; but a hole should have been dug, and each shell 
 buried separately : then no danger could possibly have 
 occurred. 
 
 This plan I had en passant suggested to some of the 
 authorities. 
 
 The next day another accident happened with a shell. 
 A fatigue party were engaged picking up round shot, 
 and one of the men had a shell upon his shoulder. His 
 comrade perceiving it, said, “ You have a live shell upon 
 your shoulder, and we are not allowed to pick them up.” 
 The man that was carrying it threw it down. It fell 
 upon a stone, and immediately burst, wounding three or 
 four of the party, as well as a poor rifleman who was 
 sitting upon a rock at some distance eating his dinner. 
 He was struck on the head by a splinter, which cut away 
 part of his skull, exposing the brain. He was trepanned 
 the next day; and although he at first did very well, he 
 died a few days afterwards. Such accidents were of 
 almost daily occurrence. 
 
 On reaching home I found a note from Major Dallas, 
 General Garrett’s aide-de-camp, apprising me that the 
 lunch would take place in two days. This delay gave us 
 plenty of time to distinguish ourselves in the culinary 
 department. Colonel Halliwell, our excellent neighbour, 
 had left for good, as he was appointed to do duty at 
 Balaklava. He was replaced by Captain Brooks, his 
 secretary, who was superseded by Colonel Hugh Smith, 
 and the latter by Major Willis. This department was 
 of great importance and assistance to me in removing 
 the stoves from one regiment to another. I here take 
 the opportunity of thanking those gentlemen, whose 
 kindness almost made me forget, as far as business was 
 concerned, the worthy Colonel Halliwell, who had 
 removed his head-quarters to Balaklava, and pitched 
 his tent upon the top of the hill facing the Genoese 
 
446 
 
 A SPLENDID MAYONNAISE. 
 
 Tower, called the Marine Heights. The Ordnance- 
 house was his place of business and mess-room; but 
 now and then the warrior gourmet elevated the gastro- 
 nomic art to the highest pitch by giving small parties 
 on the summit or pinnacle of the rocky mountain. 
 This was the case one day when I called. The gallant 
 colonel was very busy embarking troops, but found 
 twenty minutes 5 spare time, in which he concocted the 
 most delicious Mayonnaise de homard I ever tasted, and 
 which was partaken of by two Russian lady visitors. 
 They were mother and daughter, of high birth, and ac- 
 companied by a Russian officer. The party had accepted 
 the colonel 5 s invitation when he visited Bakschiserai. The 
 elder lady was one of the maids of honour to the Dowager 
 Empress of Russia. The lunch, though soon over, was 
 exquisite, the colonel 5 s servant being every bit as good 
 a judge of good things as his master. The champagne 
 was as good as the Mayonnaise. As the colonel had to 
 attend to business after lunch, the Russian officer. 
 Colonel HalliwelFs aide-de-camp, two friends, and myself, 
 had the pleasure of accompanying the ladies for a walk. 
 Nothing proved more interesting to them than a visit to 
 the Sanatorium Hospital, in hopes of seeing Miss Nightin- 
 gale, of whom they had heard much. The former they 
 saw, and were much pleased with it; but the good lady, 
 to their chagrin, was absent at the Monastery. They 
 consoled themselves by looking round her hut; but there 
 was nothing to distinguish it from the others : it was, 
 indeed, worse built, having been put up in a hurry. 
 Their enthusiasm was the pure effect of imagination; and 
 had we pointed out any other as the residence of that 
 lady, it would have produced the same result. 
 
 The decline of the sun apprised our Russian visitors 
 that time was ilying; and they had far to go. We parted 
 from them near the top of the Crow 5 s Nest, one of the 
 finest spots in the world to get a view of a good sunset. 
 
 Early the next morning all the people in authority 
 were astir. Generals, colonels, officers, and men in light 
 marching order, might be seen quickly crossing and re- 
 crossing the plateau in every direction. I had, with 
 
A BILL OF FARE. 
 
 447 
 
 my brigade of cooks, been busy since daybreak, and 
 a white stream of communication had established itself 
 between the general’s palazzo, built of fine white stone,'* **' 
 and the villarette of your humble servant, so conspicuously 
 erected in almost the centre of the plateau. This was no 
 other than my cooks in their white culinary attire, 
 running like mad to and fro, fetching and carrying the 
 portions of the collation which I had prepared in my 
 kitchen. At ten, to the minute, the party were to sit 
 down ; at five minutes to ten the collation was on the 
 table, and in military order. The bill of fare was as 
 follows : — 
 
 DEJEUNER POUR VINGT-QUATRE PERSONNES, 
 
 Offert au General YassileffsJcy par le General Garrett. 
 
 Filets de turbot cloute a la Dame Blanche. 
 
 Cotelettes de mouton h la vivandiere. 
 
 Relevees ehaudes. 
 
 Les hanchettes de mouton a la Bretonne. 
 
 Pieces froides. 
 
 Le dindonneau farci a l’anglaise. Les poulets demi-rotis. 
 
 Le gros jambon de Westmoreland glace. Le gannet garni d’ortolans 
 
 a la Victoria. 
 
 La Macedoine Llidersienne h 1’ Alexandre II. 
 
 Petits hors-d’oeuvres. 
 
 Les escaloppes de mortadelle de Verone. Le thon italien marine. 
 Les olives de Provence farcies. Les lamproies et sardines 
 
 Les anchois. marinees. 
 
 Les cornichons al’estragon. Indian pickles. 
 
 Entremets de douceur. 
 
 Gelees d’oranges. Idem au marasquin. 
 
 Plum-pudding a la Exeter. Un turban Savarin au Maddre. 
 
 The Crimean cup a la Marmora. 
 
 Dessert assorti. 
 
 Salades d’oranges. Compotes de poires. 
 
 Figues, raisins, amandes, Ac. 
 
 * It was commenced by General Bentinck, continued by General 
 
 Wyndham and Lord W. Paulet, and finished by General Garrett. 
 
448 
 
 DUTIES OE A GENERAL. 
 
 My engineer, Tom Shell-proof, as we afterwards called 
 him, undertook to gallop round to the various regimental 
 kitchens^ and see that all was in order.* This brought 
 to my recollection the applicable and pithy remark 
 made by my friend Mr. Charles Pierce, who, in the 
 preface of his valuable work entitled The Household 
 Manager ,f says that “The warrior general who looks 
 forward to the successful termination of his coming 
 engagement, first, with careful study and practised 
 thought, views in prescience each possible exigency, and 
 provides a means to meet it, strategically considering 
 the country in which his scene of action is laid, and the 
 appliances in all respects necessary to his victory.” The 
 school from which the author of the above-quoted work 
 emanates is Chirk Castle, where, upwards of twenty 
 years ago, I first made his acquaintance. His then 
 young master, Colonel Myddleton Biddulph, is the 
 present Master of the Household to her Majesty. Mr. 
 Pierce was himself afterwards attached to the household 
 of the reigning Duke of Lucca, and was fellow-servant 
 and a most intimate friend of Baron Ward, who ulti- 
 mately became not only Master of the Household, but 
 Prime Minister, to the Duke of Parma. Mr. Pierce 
 himself, as is well known, is maUre d’liotel to the Russian 
 Embassy. 
 
 At ten to the minute, the Russians arrived. After the 
 
 It was situated on the spot once inhabited by Sir John Campbell. 
 The Duke of Newcastle also had his tent pitched there during 
 his stay in the Crimea, not fifty yards from the place where 
 General Cathcart and other great heroes are interred. The reader’s 
 humble and respectful servant is not a little proud to have had the 
 honour of having his last culinary encampment, called Soyer’s 
 Villarette, on that celebrated and glorious locality. 
 
 * Upon my asking General Garrett the reason why the lunch was 
 fixed so early, “ So early, say you !” answered the general, laughing. 
 “ What do you think ? When I asked Major-General Vassileffsky 
 what was the most convenient time for him to pay me a visit, his 
 reply was — from four to five in the morning.” 
 
 “ Which, no doubt, general, yon thought too late, or too early.” 
 
 “ True enough,” said the general, 
 f Lately published by George Routledge & Co. 
 
STRANGE CONTRADICTIONS. 
 
 449 
 
 introduction, the guests sat down, and every jaw was 
 soon doing its best; for in less than twenty minutes 
 there were only the names of the various dishes to be 
 seen, and they were upon the bill of fare — which was not 
 eaten. The Russian general, who has only one arm, ate 
 as much as two men with the use of both. A servant 
 waited upon him, and carved his meat. Better looking 
 men I have seen, but not more military. He seemed as 
 hard and as round as a cannon-ball Between three and 
 five was the general's hour of rising in time of peace. 
 When he told me this, I said, “ Then I suppose in war- 
 time you don't lie down at all, general ?" 
 
 “ Very little indeed," was the reply. 
 
 “ That I can conceive. But in time of peace you 
 must admit four or five to be rather an early hour to call 
 upon a friend, as you proposed doing to General 
 Garrett." 
 
 The general was a man of very agreeable manners — 
 spoke French rather fluently — had a very quick eye — was 
 no sooner seated than he took a survey of the company. 
 The lunch was much relished — the speeches were short 
 and to the point, and all went on to everybody's satisfac- 
 tion. The Russian general was particularly pleased, and 
 highly complimented his host upon the dainty repast, 
 which he could not conceive was to be had in the Crimea. 
 His aide-de-camp informed me that he was a bit of an 
 epicure, and always kept a good table when at home. 
 Both the aides-de-camp were much taken with the en- 
 gravings from the Illustrated News pasted round the walls 
 of the general's dining-room. They could not make out 
 how it was that General Pelissier wore a Russian uniform, 
 and Prince Menschikoff the French military order — that 
 General Canrobert was dressed like the Emperor Alex- 
 ander II., while his Majesty was dressed in the French 
 general's costume. Count Orloff wore the French im- 
 perial uniform; and above all, their general-in-chief. 
 Prince Gortschikoff, appeared attired as a Highlander, 
 while the Grand Duke Constantine was rigged out as a 
 Zouave. They remained some time after the general had 
 left the table, puzzling over these strange contradictions. 
 
 G G 
 
450 
 
 ANOTHER BANQUET. 
 
 “ This,” said I, “ was done during the cut-throat time ; 
 but now we are at peace, and in future every one will 
 carry his own head upon his shoulders, and each military 
 man wear his own uniform and orders. War,” I con- 
 tinued, “ is a mischievous evil, which turns everything 
 topsy-turvy, while peace will restore every head to its 
 proper owner.” 
 
 This explanation appeared to puzzle them more than 
 the thing itself ; so I showed them that the heads had 
 been cut off with scissors and placed upon other bodies. 
 This amused them so much, that the general had to wait 
 some time for them. They were entirely engrossed by 
 those illustrated pasquinades, which appeared to be quite 
 a novelty to them. 
 
 The review followed. Lord Alexander Russell com- 
 manded. The very next morning, Colonel Lockhart of the 
 92nd Highlanders called at my hut, to consult me about a 
 grand banquet which was to be given at Kamara to Sir 
 Colin Campbell (only six miles off) before his departure 
 for England. Though it was impossible for me to under- 
 take it myself, being still fatigued from the effects 
 of the exertions of the previous day, I could not refuse 
 my assistance. After a great deal of trouble and per- 
 suasion, I prevailed upon Mr. E. Crockford to undertake 
 it, and we made out the bill of fare. 
 
 The banquet took place on the 9th of May, 1856, to 
 the entire satisfaction of all present ; and a great day it 
 was. The gallant general had reviewed his troops that 
 morning, and he bade them adieu, as they were leaving 
 the seat of war, where they had so nobly done their duty 
 both in and out of the trenches. The air re-echoed with 
 shouts at each sentence the worthy general uttered, till 
 he was at last so moved by their enthusiasm that he — 
 Sir Colin Campbell — shed tears. Such was the interest- 
 ing scene which took place the morning before Sir Colin 
 Campbell left his proud Scotch Zouaves in the mountains 
 and vales of Kamara. 
 
 A few hours after that touching martial ceremony I 
 had the honour of an interview with Sir Colin. He 
 thanked me kindly for the trouble I was taking in getting 
 up the banquet. I availed myself of this opportunity to 
 
CRIMEAN CUP A LA MARMORA. 
 
 451 
 
 request the general to favour me with his autograph. Pie 
 smiled and consented. The document forms one of the 
 most interesting relics in my Crimean archives, as the 
 general addressed it to me, with the date, &c. (It was 
 also countersigned by General Cameron.) 
 
 The banquet at night went off admirably, and the 
 coup -d J ceil, for a battle-field, was brilliant. About a 
 hundred sat down to dinner. Sir Colin Campbell made 
 a very touching speech ; so did General Cameron, who 
 succeeded to the command, and Colonel Stirling, Sir 
 Colin’s aide-de-camp. The evening closed merrily. After 
 the generals and the Staff had retired, the bagpipes conti- 
 nued playing, and all that remained in the banqueting-hall 
 commenced dancing — people, plates, dishes, bottles, and 
 glasses included. The next day, Sir Colin, after paying 
 a friendly farewell visit to all, embarked at Kamiesch on 
 board the French mail. 
 
 A few days before Sir Colin Campbell’s departure, a 
 grand dinner was given to General della Marmora at 
 head- quarters, and Captain Ponsonby called upon me to 
 ask whether I could not prepare something new in 
 honour of the Sardinian general. I promised to turn 
 my attention to the matter. As the dinner was fixed for 
 the following day, I had but a short time to produce 
 any novelty. The idea struck me that a new and well- 
 iced beverage would be very acceptable during the hot 
 weather. This led to the invention of the Crimean cup 
 a la Marmora , which met with high approbation, and 
 was quaffed with great gusto at the grand Marmora 
 dinner at head-quarters. The receipt is as follows:— 
 
 RECEIPT FOE CRIMEAN CUP A LA MARMORA, OR POTAGE A LA 
 
 MER BLANCHE. 
 
 Proportions . — Syrup of orgeat, one quart ; cognac brandy, one 
 pint; maraschino, half-a-pint; Jamaica rum, half-a-pint; champagne, 
 two bottles ; soda-water, two bottles ; sugar, six ounces ; and four 
 middling-sized lemons. 
 
 Thinly peal the lemons, and place the rind in a bowl with the 
 sugar ; macerate them well for a minute or two, in order to extract 
 the flavour from the lemon. Next squeeze the juice of the lemons 
 upon this, add two bottles of soda-water, and stir well till the sugar 
 is dissolved ; pour in the syrup of orgeat, and whip the mixture well 
 
 G G 2 
 
452 
 
 MY GRAND BANQUET. 
 
 with an egg- whisk in order to whiten the composition. Then add 
 the brandy, rum, and maraschino ; strain the whole into the punch- 
 bowl, and just before serving add the champagne, which should be 
 well iced. "While adding the champagne, stir well with the ladle : 
 this will render the cup creamy and mellow. 
 
 Half the quantity given here, or even less, may be made; this 
 receipt being lor a party of thirty. 
 
 I perceived that my anticipation had been fully 
 realized, and that after the proclamation of peace the 
 whole camp was converted into an immense banqueting- 
 hall. The continued demand for my assistance in re- 
 ference to dinner-parties, and invitations to the same, 
 almost made me regret the war-time, during which I 
 used to live in comparative peace, at least as far as high 
 cookery went, having only to attend to my duties, which 
 of course I did not neglect. In addition to all this, I 
 felt compelled, in return for all these polite invitations, 
 to tender hospitalities at home, and thus kept my camp 
 establishment a regular petit Lucullusian temple. 
 
 The day fixed for the grand festival was at this period 
 drawing near ; the number invited increased daily, while 
 the temple only occupied the same space of ground. The 
 places were measured to an inch, and it was found that 
 it would just hold fifty-four with ease, or sixty if they 
 were packed like sardines in a tin box. The number was 
 therefore limited to fifty. To do the thing well for such 
 a party in the Crimea, required both judgment and per- 
 severance. In the intervals between the hours of duty, 
 I laid out my plans, how I should not only please, but also 
 astonish my illustrious guests. A number of regiments 
 were daily leaving ; and this caused fresh invitations to 
 be made and issued, in order to fill up the vacancies. At 
 last the day arrived. The morning was very wet, and the 
 sky clouded ; two of my men were ill, as was usually 
 the case when anything of importance was about to take 
 place ; and consequently the commencement was inaus- 
 picious. Owing to the rain, to my great annoyance, the 
 muddy soil of the Crimea accumulated in the hut, caused 
 by the ingress and egress of half-a-dozen soldiers, who 
 had been kindly granted for a few hours to fetch some 
 green plants from a distant ravine to ornament my fete 
 
THE SCENE PAINTEll. 
 
 453 
 
 ckampetre and harmonica! soiree. It was nevertheless 
 very refreshing’ to see for the first time on the rocky 
 summit of Cathcart’s Hill the green branches of the 
 valley and the wild flowers of the fields. In less than 
 two hours, the entrance of the villarette, which before only 
 presented the appearance of a comfortable lucifer match 
 box, or fifth-rate kiosque a la Turque , assumed quite a 
 rural aspect. My six brave fellows had mounted, not to the 
 assault, but on ladders and cross-beams, those indispen- 
 sable ornaments in such a villarette, and, as if by enchant- 
 ment, had transformed it into a perfumed bosquet, or 
 retreat worthy of the goddess Flora. Bunches of flowers, 
 wild lilac, green branches, and evergreens were profusely 
 spread all over both the interior and the exterior of my 
 villarette. These were interspersed with small flags — red, 
 blue, green, and yellow paper lanterns. These decora- 
 tions gave it quite a fairy appearance. Wax lights were 
 profusely distributed all round ; and in the centre hung 
 a chandelier of original shape, constructed by the cele- 
 brated Tom Shell-proof, of Snow-hill, London. The 
 entrance was ornamented by a bold bunch of evergreens 
 and many-coloured flowers. Twelve glass lamps, pro- 
 cured at an immense expense for this occasion only, were 
 carefully cleaned, trimmed, and hung along the front and 
 roof of the hut. They had been painted in blue stripes 
 with ultramarine, by the celebrated theatrical artist, 
 Corporal Stainer. By twelve o’clock the interior was 
 finished — tables, benches, sideboards and all. The only 
 thing to be done was to clear out about half a ton of mud, 
 as that sadly interfered with the general appearance of the 
 now enchanting spot. 
 
 All was progressing satisfactorily in the cooking 
 department; the weather began to clear up, and at length 
 everything seemed to smile upon my final and most 
 difficult undertaking. Had this festival proved a failure, 
 my guests, who would, no doubt, have been polite enough 
 not to say anything on the point before me, must have 
 formed a very unfavourable opinion of my gastronomic 
 knowledge, which I should not have had another chance 
 of retrieving. It was therefore of the utmost importance 
 
454 
 
 MISHAPS. 
 
 that a failure should not occur,, or even be thought oL 
 To my sorrow, I suddenly perceived that the turf which 
 had been freshly put down a few days previous in my 
 grand green grass-plot and avenue had turned quite 
 yellow, from the effects of a burning sun. My outside 
 illumination — viz., lamps made out of ration fat, which 
 then could only be obtained by purchase (the soldiers 
 knowing the value of it) — would not consequently 
 produce the effect I intended — the reflection of light 
 upon the green turf. Ambitious as I was of producing 
 quite a novel impression upon the minds of my guests, I 
 felt much vexed at this failure. While deeply pondering 
 over the affair, in walked Colonel de Bathe, with a most 
 extraordinary long face. He said, “ You see me quite in 
 despair : we have lost Major Neville and his brother, two 
 of our best madrigal singers, and I really do not think 
 we can sing at all. You have spoken so highly of our 
 singing-club, and the company you have invited will all 
 be disappointed.” 
 
 “Do come, colonel,” I replied, “and, if necessary, I 
 will sing myself.” 
 
 “ I will come ; but we shall be very imperfect. 
 
 “ Never mind : we will make up for that by wit, bon- 
 mots , and frolic.” 
 
 I succeeded in reassuring the worthy colonel, and he 
 left, promising to come early. A few minutes afterwards, 
 a man entered, and informed me that I could not have 
 the knives, forks, crockery, glasses, &c., which Mr. 
 Crockford had promised, as they had not been returned 
 from Kamara. He added that they would probably be 
 back in the evening or early the next morning. The 
 French rolls I had ordered at Little Kamiesch the day 
 before could not be made in time, and the baker sent to 
 know if common bread would not do as well. “ I should 
 think it would,” said I, in no pleasant mood. No more 
 American ice was to be had at Kamiesch; and this was 
 indispensable for the crowning triumph of the affair, 
 upon which I relied so much — viz., my new cup a Id 
 Marmora . There were, in addition, innumerable culi- 
 nary vexations. It was by no means certain that the 
 
A MODERN BOTANICAL GARDEN— NATURE OUTDONE, 
 
A SUDDEN INSPIRATION. 
 
 455 
 
 promised band from the Rifles would favour me by 
 attending*, as Lord Alexander Russell was absent, and 
 General Garrett did not like to grant the necessary per- 
 mission in his absence, and no one knew when his lord- 
 ship would return. 
 
 Let me observe, the way I first saw the grass turn 
 was not under the influence of my friend, merry cham- 
 pagne. Not at all; but it had playfully acted upon 
 my mind, and given me an entirely new and original 
 idea. No matter how ridiculous it may appear to my 
 reader, it was original. This was to go to the theatre 
 and get a pot of opal green colour, and set some military 
 artists to paint the grass, which was quickly done to 
 perfection. In fact, it was so well executed, that the 
 horses picketed near were actually taken in, and played 
 all manner of capers to get loose and have a feed. 
 My guests were astonished, and could not account for 
 the sudden change, having noticed how brown it looked 
 in the morning. Well, reader, what think you followed 
 this sudden bright green inspiration ? Why, the arrival 
 of the crockery, &c., bread, and the American ice, two 
 fresh waiters, and Mr. Croekford’s cook, who rendered 
 great assistance. 
 
 Twilight was conquered by ration fat, lampion- shells 
 were profusely and artistically placed on the then green 
 grass, tables sumptuously laid out, the chandelier and wax 
 lights ignited, the globe lamps in front of the villarette 
 blazing in volcanic splendour, the band of the Rifles 
 playing, and the noble company as nobly arriving. O 
 Vatel ! you felt gloriously, for your banquet had suc- 
 ceeded; and while your wealthy patron, the Prince de 
 Conde, was receiving from Louis XIV. the praise due to 
 your genius, you were no more. All honour to your manes ! 
 I, like you, immortal Vatel, had all the horrors of an unex- 
 pected failure before my eyes. The idea of suicide did not 
 come into my mind, as it did to yours, noble defunct and 
 incomparable chef! probably because I had not the honour 
 of wearing the sword of the courtier. Though I had a 
 stock of guns, swords, bayonets, &c., the idea of suicide 
 never struck me, inasmuch as all these weapons were taken 
 
456 
 
 MISGIVINGS. 
 
 as trophies from the Russians, who were now friends and 
 brothers, and those emblems of carnage would have 
 been disgraced if soiled with the blood of so humble 
 an individual as myself. On the contrary, though 
 inclined to despair, I lost no time, but opened a bottle 
 of champagne for a friend who had just popped in. 
 At the second glasss — mirabile dictu ! — the thick curtain 
 which shaded my brow vanished; the unsightly brown 
 grass turned green, and everything appeared couleur de 
 rose ; and though no material amelioration had yet taken 
 place, I felt that success was certain. Nil desperandum ! 
 How many men who have ceased to live through an an- 
 ticipated failure would now be living had they struggled 
 against adverse fate, and not been led away by the dread 
 of an imaginary evil ! 
 
 The soiree was indeed in jeopardy; but in revenge I 
 had the gratification of receiving from every guest 
 invited a polite note, worded thus : “ General, Colonel, 
 or Captain So-and-so, will be very happy to spend the 
 evening at Monsieur Soyer’s villarette.” General Wynd- 
 ham, who was at one time uncertain whether he could 
 come or not, sent his aide-de-camp to inform me that he 
 should be able to attend, and to know the hour. Every- 
 thing, in fact, tended to render my position more un- 
 pleasant; and the proverb, “Plus on est de fous, plus on 
 rit,” was anything but clear to my mind. It would be 
 clear enough if a good supper and good entertainment 
 were provided ; but if the contrary, I should say, “ Plus 
 on est de fous, moins on rit.” It was three o^clock, p.m., 
 and nine was the hour on the invitation cards. There 
 remained but six hours for success or failure. 
 
 O Vatel! my noble master in the science of curee, I 
 then for the first time understood the true extent of 
 your devotion to your art. Humiliation and dishonour 
 awaited you; and Death — yes, Death! god of Starva- 
 tion, with his frail, bony limbs — was grinning at you. 
 Fortunately you lived in an era of gastronomic grandeur, 
 when a chef de cuisine bore a high rank, and had your 
 own aristocratic weapon wherewith to do the noble deed 
 which gilds your name. 
 
GRAND SUCCESS. 
 
 457 
 
 The gallant Colonel de Bathe was the first to arrive, 
 with plenty of musical support. The programme was 
 settled. Each noble general, as he arrived, was received 
 a la militaire , not, as the song says, “ sans tambour ni 
 trompette,” but sans ceremonie . Every one being ac- 
 quainted, introductions were not necessary. 
 
 At half-past nine the band, which had performed 
 all the while, ceased playing, and the grand madrigal 
 concert commenced, followed by glees, &c., and at in- 
 tervals the band played lively quadrilles, polkas, &e., 
 till eleven o’clock, when the supper took place. The 
 band melodiously accompanied the knife-and-fork chorus, 
 the champagne galop, and pop, pop of the confined corks. 
 Shortly after, the amiable Lord Rokeby, who had kindly 
 undertaken the office of chairman, made a most affable and, 
 to me, interesting speech, dilating in high and flattering 
 terms upon my mission to the East. 
 
 After supper, the band again ceased, and, while they 
 enjoyed their nocturnal repast, madrigals, glees, duets, 
 solos, &c., followed in rapid succession. All of a sudden 
 (I happened at the time to be in the back room) an 
 alarm was given by General Wyndham, who called out, 
 u Soyer, Soyer, your hut is on fire !” The general was 
 getting up, when a young officer sprang from beam to 
 beam till he reached the top of the hut, where a large 
 paper lantern had taken fire and ignited the roof. 
 My principal fear was for my picture, painted by the 
 late Madame Soyer, called the “ Young Bavarian;” 
 which was the admiration of all my Crimean visitors, 
 and well known in London amongst the connoisseurs, 
 having repurchased it at the sale of the great Salt- 
 marsh collection, at Messrs. Christie and Mason’s, in 
 the year 1846 — (subsequently, when travelling in the 
 South of France, I met on my route the illustrious 
 Horace Vernet, and in Paris, had the honour of showing 
 him this painting in his study at the Institute, when he 
 expressed his opinion in the following words : — “ That 
 no female artist had ever painted in such a bold style, 
 nor with such a truthfulness of colour and design.” He 
 added, it was worthy of the pencil of Murillo) . It hung 
 
458 
 
 FASHIONABLE INTELLIGENCE. 
 
 directly under the conflagration. But, thanks to the 
 gymnastic agility of our unknown fireman, calm was soon 
 restored; the band recommenced playing, and the punch 
 a la Marmora circulated freely, for everything was 
 abandoned for that exciting mixture, even grogs and 
 champagne. At about two o^clock Lord Rokeby and 
 General Craufurd left. I then introduced a comic song, 
 in which all joined, including between two or three 
 hundred spectators who had collected round the hut. 
 As the hour advanced, the company diminished; but at 
 five in the morning there were still a few guests in- 
 quiring for their horses. And thus ended the last party 
 on Cathcarffs Hill previous to the breaking up of the 
 Fourth Division and its return to England. 
 
 The following is an account, from the Times , of the 
 banquet, and of the names of some of my noble visitors: — 
 
 This evening, a number of distinguished guests honoured M. 
 Soyer with their presence at supper at his villarette near Cathcart’s 
 Hill. The exterior of the hut was illuminated with lamps fed with 
 ration fat ; the interior was embellished with numerous wreaths and 
 festoons of the beautiful natural plants and flowers now so abundant 
 over the less-trodden parts of the plateau. Some glees of Klicken, 
 Mendelssohn, Fleming, &c., very well executed by Mr. Clarke Dalby, 
 Major Colville, R.B., Colonel de Bathe, Scots Fusilier Guards, and 
 others, formed an agreeable introduction to an excellent supper — a 
 triumph of culinary art over Crimean resources, which was, how- 
 ever, soon subjugated in its turn by the ferocity and unconquerable 
 steadiness of the British appetite. Lord Bokeby proposed M. 
 Soyer’s health, and passed a high eulogium on the services he had 
 rendered to the army by his exertions to promote good cooking and 
 the use of palatable food; and M. Soyer returned thanks with 
 propriety and feeling, acknowledging the aid and support he had 
 received from generals, officers, and privates in the introduction of 
 his improvements. 
 
 Among the guests were General Wvndham, Chief of the Staff ; 
 General Lord Rokeby, General Lord W. Paulet, Colonel Lord 
 Alexander Russell, Lord Sefton, Sir Henry Barnard, General Garrett, 
 General Craufurd, Colonel Blane, Colonel Hardinge, Colonel P. 
 Fielding, Colonel Drummond, Colonel Ponsonby, Major Dallas, 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Hugh Smith, and about thirty other officers. 
 About this time twelve months the long rangers, of which we wisely 
 held our tongues for fear the Russians would find out how unpleasant 
 they were, and redouble their attentions, might have interrupted the 
 proceedings very abruptly. 
 
459 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 LAST DAYS OF BRITISH OCCUPATION OP THE CRIMEA. 
 
 A final trial — Distribution of the Order of the Bath — Letter from 
 Lord Gough — Farewell to the battle-field — Bonfires — Grand 
 coup-d’ceil — Lord W. Paulet’s farewell party — Parting visits — 
 Depredations — Morning parade catechism — Stuart’s canteen — 
 The Theatre Royal of the Fourth Division— The scenes shifted 
 — Soyer’s new invention — Pilgrimage through a deserted camp 
 — Sanatorium Hospital — Six cemeteries — Trip to Odessa — 
 Return to Balaklava — A pleasant surprise — The yacht Syljpkide 
 — Letter from W. H. Russell — Departures — The Nightingale 
 Monument — The last day — General Codrington’s letter — The 
 keys of Balaklava given up to the Russians — The place retaken 
 — A parting invitation — Good-by to the Crimea. 
 
 The following day I begged Sir William Codrington to fix 
 a day for my final trial, when I intended to place twelve 
 stoves in the 56th Regiment, then quartered at the back 
 of the vineyard facing head-quarters, and thus cook for the 
 whole regiment. This would afford Sir W. Codrington an 
 opportunity of judging of their efficacy, and enable him 
 to give his opinion upon the subject. Lord Gough had 
 arrived to distribute the Order of the Bath ; and, as his 
 lordship was to remain a couple of days longer in the 
 Crimea, I was anxious that he should be present at the in- 
 spection. The following Sunday was fixed for the purpose, 
 and the inspection was to take place after divine service. 
 Accordingly, Lord Gough, Sir W, Codrington, General 
 Wyndham, General Barnard, General Garrett, Colonel de 
 Bathe, Colonel Blane, Colonel Walker, Captain Ponsonby, 
 with their respective Staffs, were present, and tasted the 
 various kinds of food I had caused to be prepared by two 
 soldiers only for the whole regiment, about six hundred 
 strong. About thirty gentlemen had assembled; and 
 they all expressed in high terms their satisfaction and 
 approval, not only of the quality of the food produced 
 
460 
 
 FAREWELL TO THE BATTLE-FIELD. 
 
 from the soldiers 5 rations with so little trouble, but also 
 of the small quantity of fuel consumed in its preparation. 
 In corroboration of this, I the next day received the 
 following letter from Lord Gough : — 
 
 Lord Gough begs, with his compliments, to inform Monsieur 
 Soyer that he had much pleasure in seeing his new cooking-stoves 
 for the army. Any measures which Monsieur Soyer may have in 
 view to simplify the cooking arrangements of the soldier will always 
 meet with Lord Gough’s hearty approval. 
 
 Sebastopol , 10th June, 1856. 
 
 The French as well as the English camps diminished 
 daily. Each evening was ushered in by large bonfires, 
 indicative of the early departure of either French or 
 English troops. This style of farewell to the battle-field 
 was generally adopted in both armies ; but some of the 
 French, not satisfied with burning their lumber and loose 
 wood, which was very properly allowed by the autho- 
 rities for those joyful volcanoes, commenced setting fire 
 to their huts, kitchens, &c. ; for which they were very 
 severely reprimanded by their general, who, instead of 
 allowing them to start the following day, as intended, 
 kept them in camp to the last — compelling them to 
 bivouac upon the spot, and thus fully enjoy the conse- 
 quences of their folly, having no kitchens to cook in, nor 
 huts to lie under. This was a good lesson for the re- 
 mainder of the army. 
 
 The Fourth Division, under the command of Lord 
 William Paulet, received orders to depart. Every regi- 
 ment distinguished itself more or less by its peculiar 
 style of bonfire. They were to be fired simultaneously 
 on the eve of their departure. Some were raised to the 
 height of thirty feet; one even exceeded that, with a 
 base of at least sixty feet in circumference, being com- 
 posed of not less than ten or twelve tons of wood and 
 rubbish, brought together by the men of the 57 th Regi- 
 ment, who worked very hard for some days in getting it 
 ready. The night arrived, all the bonfires, with the ex- 
 ception of the large one, which was kept for the last, 
 were fired ; and when the smaller ones were about half 
 
GRAND COUP-d’cEIL. 
 
 461 
 
 consumed, this monster was ignited in four places. The 
 coup-tV aiil was indeed grand. The burning of Sebastopol 
 had not offered such a column of fire in one spot ; added 
 to which, all the regiments composing the division had 
 joined, and were dancing round that mountain of flame 
 — shouting, singing, playing on marrow- bones and 
 cleavers, and upon hundreds of tin camp -kettles as a 
 substitute for drums. The camp was richly illu- 
 minated for miles around till about ten o’clock, when, 
 as usual, all mustered in military order. The burn- 
 ing sky had recovered its former azure splendour; 
 the stars were twinkling and shooting; and the next 
 day nothing remained to tell the tale to the new-comers 
 but a kind of large black seal, about eighty feet in 
 circumference. 
 
 That evening I had the pleasure of joining a farewell 
 party, given by Lord W. Paulet to a number of friends 
 at his head-quarters. The time passed very merrily and 
 agreeably, leaving a most delightful impression upon the 
 minds of all. 
 
 The next morning, at daybreak, the whole of the 
 division were on their way to Balaklava. A long 
 red line was seen marching in the distance ; the 
 sound of the bands playing “ Cheer, boys, cheer,” was 
 faintly heard, gradually receding from both sight and 
 hearing. Those brave fellows were then off for good- 
 The Guards had left their camp some days before ; but 
 they went in detachments — the Coldstreams first, the 
 Grenadier Guards next, and the Fusiliers last. I paid 
 my respectful farewell visits to Lord Rokeby, General 
 Craufurd, Colonels Drummond, Foley, &c. &c. 
 
 Upon this occasion. Colonel Foley invited me to lunch 
 at their grand mess-room, which invitation I accepted 
 with great pleasure. Every one being on the move, invi- 
 tations to dinner entirely disappeared from the order of 
 the day. The rations were the only provisions which 
 graced the last day’s bill of fare. Still, the salt pork, 
 beef, and the fresh meat were very good, and highly 
 relished by a Crimean appetite : added to which, the 
 remains of a good English cheese, a salad a la Zouave , 
 
462 
 
 DEPREDATIONS. 
 
 and good English draught ale, completed the sump- 
 tuous gala. While freely partaking of the gallant 
 colonel's hospitality, a number of officers joined us ; 
 amongst whom I recognised the scion of a celebrated 
 epicure, who sat next me, and commenced manipulating 
 in his plate a most relishing sauce. Upon tasting this, 
 I could not resist exclaiming — 
 
 “ Oh ! Sefton, Sefton ! may your noble ashes repose in 
 peace in your tomb ! The glory of your name has not faded : 
 your grandson, the youthful Lord Sefton, is an epicure !" 
 
 Some of my stoves remained in use in the Crimea till 
 the day of the departure of the First Division. I was in 
 duty bound to watch over and rescue them from the 
 hands of the marauding Tartars, who seemed to claim 
 as their own everything left behind by each regiment, 
 even previous to the surrender of the Crimea by the 
 Allied Governments. 
 
 All that remained of the British army consisted of the 
 20th with two Scotch regiments at Kamara, and a body 
 of the Land Transport Corps at Cathcart's Hill, (the Land 
 Transport Corps were even at that time raising their bon- 
 fires); and the 56th Regiment at head-quarters, as Sir 
 William Codrington’s body-guard. So few troops being 
 left upon such a vast space, made it not only very dull, 
 but also very unsafe, compelling us to keep loaded guns 
 and revolvers at the head of our beds. The precaution 
 was most necessary, for, with all our care, we were daily 
 and nightly robbed by the Tartar J ews who infested the 
 camp. Tents actually disappeared, and several huts were 
 fired in the English camp ; and no one could detect the 
 authors of these outrages. 
 
 The Fourth Division retained its name and the 
 ground, but that was all. The chief of that colossal body 
 alone remained — General Garrett having to the last 
 maintained his head-quarters upon the memorable spot. 
 The loss most felt upon Cathcart's Hill was the departure 
 of Lord Alexander Russell's brigade of Rifles, who were 
 in the habit of parading and exercising daily upon the 
 plateau. A parting dinner given to his lordship by 
 
SCENES OF DESOLATION. 
 
 463 
 
 General Garrett, and to which I was invited, closed 
 merrily enough ; hut the day after their departure the 
 camp was as desolate as a desert ; only one regiment, the 
 20th, remained. General Garrett and myself were the 
 only proprietors on that far-famed spot, Cathcart’s Hill, 
 though no end of new tenants were arriving in shoals ; I 
 mean the rats from deserted camps, who boldly took 
 possession of our head-quarters. All around had in 
 a few days assumed such an aspect of desolation, that 
 it appeared to me like a sudden exile from a lively and 
 brilliant capital to a deserted rock : the beating of 
 drums, sounding of trumpets, and the harmony of the 
 bands ; as well as the eternal morning parade catechism 
 of the drill-serjeant, shouting with all his might, “ Fall 
 in ! eyes fifteen paces to the front !” — or occasionally, 
 as the French would say, “ Les yeux fixes et la tete 
 a quinze pas !” “ Shoulder arms ! slope arms ! ” Now 
 and then, an awkward fellow would be thus apostro- 
 phized by the witty serjeant: “Now, my man, has not 
 your country been generous enough to present you with 
 a musket ? Then, do your country justice by learning 
 the use of it.” 
 
 The profound silence which succeeded the tumult of 
 camp life would have depressed the greatest philosopher. 
 Stuart* s celebrated canteen, attached to the theatre, and 
 which appeared in the series of engravings already pub- 
 lished, was on the move ; and Stuart’s head man, Joe, 
 was at his last score of bottle-breaking, when I called 
 and ordered half-a-dozen of pale ale. 
 
 “ You may boast,” he exclaimed, “ of being the last 
 served here, for we are going off to Kadikoi immediately. 
 
 I then walked into the theatre. The stage offered a singular 
 coup-d’ ceil : the figure of a child, as well as a black doll, 
 were hanging by the neck from a cross beam at the top of 
 the stage ; the elaborately-painted curtain was torn into 
 ribbons, the scenery partly whitewashed over, and the % 
 furniture of the apartment of Serjeant Blowhard was 
 thrust into Miss Greenfinch’s bedroom ; while Slasher 
 and Crasher had left the theatre in a most dilapidated 
 
464 
 
 A DESERTED STAGE. 
 
 state. Female attire, including wings, ringlets, caps, 
 bonnets, bunches of flowers, crinolines, and toilets of all 
 fashions, bedaubed with chalk, bismuth, vermilion, and 
 red brickdust, instead of carmine, were scattered about 
 the stage in such a state that a French chiffonnier would 
 not have disgraced his hamper by including them amongst 
 its contents. The painting-room floor was like a rainbow; 
 all the powdered colours had been kicked in every direc- 
 tion, forming a mulligatawny of shades enough to puzzle 
 an Owen Jones and his disciples. The benches in the 
 stalls and pit were piled up into a formidable barricade. 
 Nothing had been respected but her Majesty’s royal arms, 
 which ornamented the centre of the proscenium. These 
 had been painted by Major Dallas, General Garrett’s aide- 
 de-camp. 
 
 By the aid of a ladder, I carefully removed them, 
 with the intention of placing them amongst my Sebas- 
 topol trophies, as a memento of the dramatic art in the 
 Crimea. Upon leaving this desolated skeleton temple of 
 Melpomene, I inquired of Mr. Stuart’s bottle-breaker 
 the cause of this awful disorder. He told me, frankly 
 enough, that so far as the wardrobe was concerned, the 
 rats had taken possession, but that for the remainder, 
 himself and a few friends had done the work of devasta- 
 tion by way of closing the season. Thus terminated the 
 dramatic performances in the Theatre Royal of the 
 Fourth Division ; and it was, no doubt, a fair specimen 
 of what happened in other divisions, if left in the hands 
 of similar good managers. 
 
 Indeed, I could not but feel hurt at this sudden 
 devastation, for it was only a few evenings before that 
 this tumble-down temple of Mom us was gloriously shining 
 through the resplendent glare of a dozen brown candles, 
 and that the celebrated band of the Rifles (by permission 
 of Lord A. Russell) was delighting a crowded audience 
 numbering upwards of five hundred soldiers, when, at 
 the end of the first piece, to the astonishment of all, and 
 myself in particular, a distinguished artist and “ non- 
 commissioned ” poet came forward, who, though not in 
 the style of Victor Hugo or Moore, but rather in the poet- 
 
soyer's new invention. 
 
 465 
 
 less “ or you-go-not style” poured forth the following song, 
 to the amusement of the audience, who at its conclusion 
 encored it most lustily. The “poetry” (?) ran as 
 follows : — 
 
 SOYER’S NEW INVENTION. 
 
 A trifling thing, gentlemen, I am going to mention ; 
 
 Oh tell me, pray, have you seen this great and new invention. 
 
 To cook in camp I believe it is their intention ; 
 
 For Soyer’s patent, I confess, it is a perfect creation. 
 
 Steam ! Steam ! 
 
 For in it you can burn coal, wood, or patent fuel, 
 
 Put in your meat, and then you’ll find it will soon he doing ; 
 
 And when lighted, away it goes, and everything in motion ; 
 
 For Soyer’s patent, I confess, it is a perfect creation. 
 
 Steam ! Steam ! 
 
 They gather round for to see the wonderful man who made it, 
 
 And stand in amaze and have a gaze, and then begin to inspect it. 
 
 All the cocked hats, I believe, say it’s a stunning notion ; 
 
 For Soyer’s patent, I confess, it is a perfect creation. 
 
 Steam ! Steam ! 
 
 It’s greatly approved of, I believe, by all the nation, 
 
 And they are about to contract for this great new invention. 
 
 I sincerely hope that there’s no harm in anything I mention ; 
 
 For Soyer’s patent, I confess, it is a perfect creation. 
 
 Steam ! Steam ! 
 
 Composed by A. Thos. Price, 
 
 Lance Corporal 20th Regiment. 
 
 My presence being discovered, the whole of the troops 
 rose en masse, and favoured me with three cheers, when, 
 mounting a bench, I addressed them as follows : — 
 
 “ My worthy friends and brave fellows, allow me to ex- 
 press to you my most profound gratitude for the honouryou 
 have conferred upon me thus unexpectedly. My humble 
 services have often been approved of by your superior 
 officers, but believe me, nothing can be more gratifying 
 to me than your genuine and spontaneous approval of my 
 endeavours to improve the cooking of the soldiers' rations ; 
 and now that peace has re-established order amongst us 
 all, I shall only be too happy to devote my time in in- 
 structing you in the plain art of cookery ; for, believe me, 
 it is the desire of her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen, 
 
 II H 
 
466 
 
 A SORROWFUL PILGRIMAGE. 
 
 and your superiors, that you should live well, long, grow 
 fat, and die happy .” 
 
 Shouts of laughter and rounds of cheers terminated 
 this unexpected dramatic impromptu. The performance 
 in consequence terminated twenty minutes later than 
 usual. 
 
 On leaving this heap of ruins, I felt as though haunted 
 by a day-mare instead of one worthy of Young’s Night; 
 but I persisted in conquering the feeling, and in continu- 
 ing my sorrowful pilgrimage. As if to add to the gloomy 
 appearance of the deserted camp, the sun, which long 
 threw his burning rays upon the dry soil, disappeared 
 behind vaporous clouds, and rain fell fast. Neverthe- 
 less, nothing could prevent me carrying out my first 
 idea, which was to visit in all their loneliness the various 
 camps. I reasoned thus with myself : — “ I am probably 
 the only person who has the chance of doing this, and, 
 therefore, the only person who will be able to tell the 
 tale.” In spite of the great desire I had to con- 
 tinue my journey, as evening was approaching, I was 
 compelled, though reluctantly, to put an end to my camp 
 review until the day prior to my evacuating the Crimea ; 
 therefore I returned to Balaklava, which place, together 
 with Kamiesch, alone showed signs of martial movement,, 
 the latter less so than the former. The Trench troops 
 got away before our own, and at last there were 
 as many Russians as Trench at Kamiesch. I had 
 scarcely anything to do, Which was not amusing after 
 having had so much business continually upon my hands. 
 Mr. Crockford asked me whether I should like to take a 
 trip to Odessa. I jumped at the proposal with delight. 
 That gentleman kindly allowed me to invite a few 
 friends, and assured me that the trip would only occupy 
 five or six days, going and returning. In less than four 
 hours the list was filled, and two days afterwards we were 
 on board the Belle Alar , but under more prosperous cir- 
 cumstances than on our former pleasure expedition. The 
 weather was fine, the vessel properly ballasted, and fur- 
 nished with provisions of all sorts, besides a cargo of 
 goods. Our appetites were first-rate; and after thirty- 
 
VISIT TO ODESSA. 
 
 467 
 
 eight hours of fair steaming, we came in sight of the 
 far-famed city of palaces — Odessa, into the harbour of 
 which we were at once admitted. 
 
 Thanks to General Liiders, who obtained of the 
 governor a suspension of quarantine, and Brigadier- 
 General Staunton, whose arrival had been telegraphed, 
 we were allowed to enter even without passports. Among 
 the fortunate tourists were General Staunton, Colonel 
 Smith, Major Earle, Mr. William Bussell, Mr. Angel, 
 Mr. Crockford, and myself. 
 
 During the trip, our party was as turbulent as the 
 ocean was calm. Each day commenced and ended with 
 shouts of laughter, contrasting singularly with the former 
 melancholy days in the camp. I need not relate that 
 which is so well known to every one — that the most 
 successful parties are those which are got up a V impromptu* 
 This was the case with this delightful trip ; so much so, 
 indeed, that some who came on board at five o’clock were 
 not aware of it till two or three. 
 
 I do not think I can give a better idea of this delightful 
 trip than by republishing the following descriptive letter, 
 which appeared in the Times : — 
 
 Soyer at Odessa. 
 
 To the Editor of the Times . 
 
 Sir,— From the arid and partly-deserted soil of the Crimea, and 
 the everlasting view from Cathcart’s Hill of the now silent ruins of 
 Sebastopol, nothing can be more refreshing to the mind than the 
 aspect of a civilized and inhabited town. 
 
 I and a few friends agreed to make a trip by water to the famed 
 city of Odessa, where we are now enjoying the favours of peace, and 
 it is with great pleasure that I return our sincere thanks to the 
 authorities and inhabitants of that city of palaces for the most 
 cordial and charming reception which could have been conferred 
 upon strangers after such a destructive war. 
 
 Being anxious to visit the public buildings, military hospitals, 
 and the various institutions, I expressed my wishes to General 
 Liiders, which his Excellency not only acceded to, but deputed his 
 aide-de-camp, Colonel Scariatine, to accompany us in our visitorial 
 pilgrimage. 
 
 The party consisted of Brigadier- General Staunton, 4th Division, 
 Adjutant-General Colonel Smith, Major Earle, and myself. 
 
 This noble man, who spoke excellent French and English, was 
 indeed a valuable cicerone . The most important of the institutions 
 
 H H 2 
 
468 
 
 LETTER TO “THE TIMES.” 
 
 we visited are the Military and Civil Hospitals, the Foundling Insti- 
 tution, the Salles d’Asile, and the Hospital of the Sisters of Charity. 
 We were received at, and shown over, the Hospital by the chief 
 medical officer, Dr. Grime, and staff ; at the Foundling, by the 
 director, Mr. Fourman; at the Salles d’Asile, by the inspectress, 
 Madame PeraErgard; and by the Superior of the Sisters of Charity, 
 Madame Marie Retchakoff — one of the latter had just arrived from 
 Bakschiserai ; she had been all through the campaign, and was 
 slightly wounded in the trenches. She related that several sisters 
 were killed in Sebastopol, and many wounded during the siege ; the 
 latter are now recalled to St. Petersburg, and enjoy the favour and 
 patronage of the Empress. These ladies were most anxious to hear 
 of Miss Nightingale’s doings, and spoke of her with the greatest 
 veneration. They listened with much interest to my account of that 
 excellent lady’s efforts in the cause of humanity. 
 
 All these institutions, though based upon similar principles to 
 those in England and France, possess a type of their own, both 
 as regards the expense and management. Cleanliness, simplicity, 
 and judicious economy seem to be closely studied in all the esta- 
 blishments. 
 
 The culinary department, which, of course, was of vital interest to 
 me, I found extremely clean and well constructed, though rather 
 complicated. The boilers are made of wrought iron, which I at 
 first sight feared was copper, but the lids only were made of that 
 showy but dangerous metal in such vast establishments, where the 
 apparatus is in continual use and tinning difficult to he often repeated. 
 
 We were at the Orphan’s School in time to taste their food, which 
 consists of a basin of soup, one pound of meat, one ounce of oatmeal, 
 and one pound and a half of white bread. The soup is of a thinnish 
 nature, and strongly flavoured with pleasant aromatic herbs, the 
 whole forming, no doubt, a very wholesome and nutritious food, and 
 well adapted to the climate. Their beverage, which is the one of the 
 soldiers, is called Quielye and Chtschy in Russian, and Quataee in 
 the Polish language. It is made with rye, mead, and a small portion 
 of hops, requiring only a few hours to prepare it. 
 
 I must say that to an uninitiated palate it is anything but a 
 pleasant drink, but, no doubt, very refreshing and agreeable when 
 used to it ; for after drinking one goblet of it my thirst was allayed 
 for several hours during one of the hottest days I had experienced 
 for some time. 
 
 Now, a few words for the epicures. The sturgeon, which is here 
 abundant, and in England despised and valueless, forms a principal 
 and an exquisite article of food, which is partly owing to the method 
 they have of dressing it. On my return I intend to try and reinstate 
 this queenly fish in its pristine fame. 
 
 Fresh caviar, which is made from the roe of the fish, is daily 
 eaten by the Russian population as an introduction to the dinner. 
 Crawfish of an extraordinary size are caught in the small rivulets 
 close to the town ; they are cheap and very plentiful. The tail and 
 
BALAKLAVA DESERTED. 
 
 469 
 
 claws are generally the only parts eaten, and tons weight of the 
 part which makes the exquisite bisque d’ecrevisses are monthly 
 thrown away. 
 
 The receipt of this excellent soup I have promised to send to the 
 worthy host of the Europa Kestaurant, he having promised to give 
 it a trial, and thereby enrich his already luxurious bill of fare. 
 
 With the highest consideration, I have the honour to remain, your 
 very obedient, A. Soyer. 
 
 Europa Hotel , Odessa , June 23. 
 
 We left the far-famed city of Odessa, and thus joyfully 
 terminated our trip to that land of new friends. 
 
 Upon our return to Cathcart’s Hill, we found that 
 General Garrett and suite had removed to the com- 
 mandants house at Balaklava, the general having 
 succeeded to that important post at the departure of 
 Colonel Hardinge, which post he retained till the final 
 close of this great political and military drama. My 
 majordomo, my engineer, and followers, were not able, 
 with all their bravery, to resist the nightly attacks of 
 the Tartar camp-rovers. Bobbery it was impossible to 
 prevent ; for they in one night, as I heard, cleared off 
 everything out of doors, as well as an old bell tent and 
 a box with the servant’s clothes. The matter at last 
 grew so critical, that my people were obliged to fire upon 
 them in the night at random. Such Arabian marauders 
 are worthy of the finest type of Zouaves for pillaging. 
 
 I found also, on my return, that my people had, im- 
 mediately after I set off on my trip, left the hill, at the 
 recommendation of General Garrett. He kindly sent 
 word that he did not consider it safe for them to remain 
 there any longer. They were quartered in one of the 
 wards close to the General Hospital, where some of the 
 Sardinian sick remained. They had all daring, adven- 
 turous, and extraordinary anecdotes of what had occurred 
 during my absence to relate. Shell-proof, in particular, 
 pretended to have wounded several in the nocturnal 
 engagements. 
 
 On his departure for Odessa, Mr. Wm. Russell had left 
 his iron castle, with his farm-house, stables, garden, and 
 dependencies, in a most flourishing condition; but upon 
 his return that gentleman found the castle pulled down, 
 
470 
 
 A WELCOME VISITOR. 
 
 folded up, and packed ready for removal by land pirates. 
 He thus describes his feelings on the occasion : — 
 
 My dear Monsieur Soyer, — What do you think ? I am now a 
 houseless, homeless wanderer : they have pulled down my house, so it 
 is really time for me to evacuate the Crimea. The shell of the house 
 only stands ; and as I am not a lobster or an oyster, that will scarcely 
 give me a shelter; so I must hang out on Cath cart’s Hill, in the old 
 cave where Sir John Campbell lived long ago. 
 
 W. H. Bussell. 
 
 Upon returning to Balaklava, we found it but a dismal 
 place. Everybody you met — and the number was not 
 great — quietly asked, “ What, not gone yet ! — when are 
 you going ?” 
 
 “ In a few days,” was the general reply, or perhaps 
 “ to-day” or “ to-morrow.” 
 
 Eor my part, I told every one who inquired that I had 
 gone, and what they saw going about dressed like me 
 was only my shadow. J oking apart, I may state, for the 
 information of those whom I respect and who deserve to 
 know the truth, my reason for remaining so long was 
 this : I was in duty bound to see the remainder of my 
 field-stoves, which were in use till the last moment of 
 the campaign, shipped for England. Not only was I 
 responsible for them, but I had to give my official report 
 to Sir William Codrington, and close the mission 
 entrusted to me by the British Government. 
 
 Glad was I to be once more at liberty, as my health, 
 though partially restored, was anything but satis- 
 factory. The Commander-in-chief had gone to Odessa 
 only for a few days, it is true; but during his absence 
 there was nothing doing. Balaklava was deserted, the 
 camp lifeless ; Kadikoi still more so — not a hut, tent, 
 shed, store, canteen, shop, or stable, was inhabited. Brick 
 and stone houses, as well as hospitals, were to let at the 
 very moderate price of nothing at all, and glad to get 
 tenants at that rather reduced rate. It was not at all 
 extraordinary for one to rise a poor man in the morning, 
 and at night find oneself a large proprietor. Every 
 person, upon leaving, presented you with rows of houses, 
 shops, &c., which they could not sell or take away. 
 
FAIRY SCENES. 
 
 471 
 
 Nevertheless, all was stale, flat, and unprofitable, as a 
 day or two after coming into possession you yourself had 
 to give them up. Riding through the camp, even at 
 mid-day, was a dangerous experiment, as it was invaded 
 by hundreds of people of all kinds and tribes, who 
 prowled about, pillaging everything they could put 
 hands upon. Therefore Balaklava was the only safe 
 quarter, and dull enough into the bargain. The 
 heat was great, and amusement scanty. Like the 
 song of the Manchester operatives, “ we had no work to 
 do-oo-oo.” Eating little, drinking much, and sleeping 
 all day, was our principal occupation. I removed from 
 the General Hospital to a very comfortable hut, then 
 recently occupied by an officer of the Commissariat, com- 
 prising three rooms, a stable, and yard. 
 
 About noon one day, while in deep slumber, I was 
 suddenly aroused by a joyful voice. It came from 
 Captain Hall, General Codrington’s aide-de-camp. 
 “ Hallo !” said he, “ I fear I am disturbing you.” 
 
 “Not at all, captain; pray walk in — I have nothing 
 to do. I was taking an Oriental nap, which calms one^s 
 senses, to that extent that I had in imagination travelled 
 as far as England and back again to my duty in the East 
 in less than half an hour.” 
 
 “ I have done more extraordinary things than that,” 
 said he. “ By the same conveyance I have been as far 
 as the East Indies and back to head-quarters in the 
 Crimea in twenty minutes.” 
 
 “You have certainly beaten me; and I think the 
 human mind can at any time beat the electric telegraph 
 for speed.” 
 
 “ What do you intend doing to-morrow ?” 
 
 “ The same as to-day, captain — nothing.” 
 
 “ Captain Leyland and family have just arrived in the 
 harbour in the beautiful yacht, the Sulphide. I have 
 spoken to him about you, and he will be glad to make 
 your acquaintance. They called upon you at Cathcart’s 
 Hill, but you were at Odessa. If you like to see that 
 gentleman at once, I will introduce you.” 
 
 “ Most happy, captain.” 
 
472 LETTER EROM cc THE TIMES* ” CORRESPONDENT. 
 
 In a short time we were climbing up the side of the 
 bulky Sylphide, an immense yacht. From her deck, her 
 beauty was seen to the best advantage. The real 
 Sylphide was, however, just perceptible, surrounded by a 
 group of gentlemen and ladies, beneath a large union- 
 jack which formed an awning upon deck. This was no 
 other than Miss Leydell, a beautiful lady eighteen years 
 of age, with blue eyes, fair hair, rows of pearls for teeth 
 — in fact, a real Sylphide, a sight of whom would have 
 driven Taglioni to despair. After I had had the honour 
 of an introduction to her sylphideship and the surround- 
 ing group, the conversation became animated. The topic 
 was upon a monster gipsy party which was to take place 
 the following day in the valley of Baidar, and to which 
 I received an invitation, no sooner made than accepted 
 by your humble servant. The captain then offered to 
 show us over his yacht, which might be compared to a 
 nobleman’s floating house, for elegance, perfection, and 
 comfort. 
 
 The Land Transport Corps and Commissariat had all 
 left, and only the General-in-chief and Staff remained, 
 forming the last link of the chain which still bound them 
 to the Crimean soil. They were at the time preparing for 
 an excursion to Odessa, on a visit to General Liiders. 
 The excellent account of the courteous reception we had 
 received at his hands, as well as from the inhabitants of 
 that beautiful city, rendered them more anxious to go. 
 Miss Nightingale was preparing for her departure. I 
 was waiting the closing of the Land Transport and 
 General Hospitals, to see my field-stoves embarked ; and 
 after delivering them in person to Captain Gordon, I 
 was anxious to follow. Balaklava church, now deprived 
 of its sacerdotal character, was being prepared for the 
 reception of the Commander-in-chief upon his return 
 from Odessa, as head-quarters had been given up to the 
 original proprietors. General Wyndham, accompanied 
 by his aide-de-camp, had left for England. 
 
 The Algiers had arrived in port, to conduct Sir William 
 Codrington to England, via Constantinople and Malta. 
 A few days afterwards. Miss Nightingale and nurses left 
 
THE NIGHTINGALE MONUMENT. 
 
 473 
 
 for Scutari. All the hospitals in the Crimea were then 
 closed. 
 
 A few days after the departure of Miss Nightingale, a 
 marble monument of immense size arrived, and was 
 erected, by an order left by that lady, between the Sana- 
 torium heights and the Sardinian graveyard and monu- 
 ment, situated on the peak of a mountain. It is per- 
 ceptible from a great distance at sea. The Nightingale 
 Monument is a monster marble cross, twenty feet high, of 
 beautiful Marmora marble. I believe it was ordered and 
 paid for by that benevolent lady, and dedicated by 
 her to the memory of the brave, and the deceased Sisters 
 of Charity. Nothing was written upon it when we left; 
 but the following line was, as I was informed, to be in- 
 scribed : — 
 
 Lord have mercy upon us. 
 
 Gospodi pomilore nass. 
 
 Shortly after the return of Sir W. Codrington, Sir 
 John Hall, the chief doctor, and Dr. Mouat departed. 
 The only acting parties now left upon the Crimean 
 shores after the awful struggle were, General Sir William 
 Codrington, Admiral Freemantle, Rear-Admiral Stewart, 
 General Garrett, Colonel Halliwell, Major Dallas, Cap- 
 tains Hollis and Barnard, Colonels Hugh Smith and Ross, 
 and Captain Gordon ; Mr. Osborn, the Commissariat 
 officer, and Mr. Fitzgerald, the purveyor. 
 
 The last day, so anxiously waited for and so sweetly 
 anticipated, had arrived. It was ushered in by nightly 
 burnings of huts and canteens. 
 
 The day before our departure, and the one prior to 
 the surrender of Balaklava to the Russians, being fixed 
 for my grand review, after in vain endeavouring to induce 
 several individuals to accompany me, I had to go alone, as 
 nobody else took any interest in my solitary pilgrimage. 
 
 Even my Snow-hill Zouave at the same time pre- 
 tended that he had too much to do to waste his valuable 
 time, as he called it — valuable indeed was the word ; 
 for at that instant my Cockney Zouave, the brave, was 
 busily engaged making a family drawing. A Stanfield 
 
474 
 
 TALK OF THE STUDIO. 
 
 would have been at a standstill at the ingenuity of this 
 modern Joseph Vernet, as a marine painter. Miss 
 Nightingale’s carriage had the night previous arrived at 
 my domicile from a store in the Land Transport Corps 
 camp, where I rescued it from a heap of vulgar wagons ; 
 it was now standing before the door of my hut, which 
 faced the General Hospital, and had attracted the atten- 
 tion of Mr. Landells, the corresponding artist of the 
 Illustrated London News, who was first struck at the 
 many peculiarities of this vehicle, and afterwards more 
 so with the production of my artist, when he broke out 
 into a genuine shout of laughter, after gazing for an 
 instant on my Zouave’s picture. Nothing for origi- 
 nality could have matched it, but a late Turner, in its 
 demi-chef d 3 oeuvre, from which the halo of glory had de- 
 parted, and age had left genius alone galavanting from 
 his palette to its now immortal canvas. Turner did I say 
 — yes, and without disgracing the name of that great 
 man ; for in the presence of Mr. Landells, my modern 
 Stanfield, who was anxious to gather as much as he could 
 for the edification of his large family on a small sheet of 
 foolscap, and being compelled from the great heat of the 
 morning sun to keep in-doors, would occasionally get up 
 and peep round the corner. On being asked by Mr. 
 Landells how he could see from where he was sitting the 
 entire range of the harbour, and more particularly the 
 Genoese Tower, which was situated directly opposite the 
 back of my hut, my clever Zouave, disgusted with 
 Mr. Landells’ ignorance of the rudiments of sketching, 
 
 and vexed at being disturbed, quietly replied, “ D n 
 
 it ! did you not see me turn round the corner.” 
 
 “ Pray don’t, my dear sir,” I exclaimed, “ interrupt my 
 artist; as you may perceive he is a regular Turner — 
 round the corner, I mean/’ 
 
 With the courage of Don Quixote, but without a 
 Sancho Panza, I undertook my grand military review. 
 I could not but regret the absence of my brave travelling 
 gent, Peter Morrison, who, through an assumed illness, 
 had three months previous abandoned the field of glory, 
 thus terminating his brave and brilliant military career ; 
 
DESERTED DWELLINGS. 
 
 475 
 
 for had he been still with me, I might have depended 
 upon his formal refusal to follow me. 
 
 It was six in the morning : the sun was shining feebly 
 through watery clouds ; the breeze blew freshly; the road 
 was moist, my pony in good order, sandwich-case full, 
 leather bottle filled with brandy-and-water, and my 
 revolver loaded. My mind was full of anxiety and wild 
 reverie, for I was about to pass a review of, to me, a 
 defunct army, with the fortunes of which I had been so 
 intimately connected during the war. I knew that upon 
 my return to England I should only meet a few frag- 
 ments of this splendid force, and not the entire mass, as 
 I had done in the Crimea. I had twelve hours before 
 me. 
 
 I commenced at the Sanatorium Hospital, which had 
 been to me such a scene of animation and vivid interest. 
 A mournful silence reigned in this small wooden city. 
 My kitchens had suffered the least in the terrible ordeal ; 
 all the framework and brick stoves were still standing, and 
 looked just as if waiting to be again put in action. The 
 grand row of huts forming the various wards, without 
 being much disturbed, were rather in a state of dilapida- 
 tion. Lastly, I visited Miss Nightingale’s sanatorium 
 residence, situated on the peak of a rock at the end of the 
 row of huts. This wooden palace, with its rough verandah, 
 was divided into three separate apartments, giving it a 
 more cheerful appearance than the rest. The iron stove, 
 and its rusty pipe, beds, &c., had been removed, but 
 the remainder of the furniture was intact. Tables, 
 benches, wooden stools, empty pots and bottles which 
 had contained medical comforts, a few rags, a piece 
 of an apron, no end of waste paper, a pair of wooden 
 shoes, and a live cat that appeared to have lived upon 
 the remnants of the kitchen-diets, or more likely the 
 rats, met my inquiring gaze. I caught Miss Puss and 
 closeted her in Miss Nightingale’s store-room, with 
 the wooden stool in daily use, intending to send for 
 both at night. The latter I proposed to keep as a relic, 
 and to restore the former to society by either taking him 
 on board ship or letting him loose in the town. I sent 
 
476 
 
 DESOLATION. 
 
 my servant ; but the pillage had commenced — the cat 
 was gone, and I only got the stool. 
 
 Anxious to continue my tour of inspection, I ascended 
 the mountain towards the old Sardinian camp, lately 
 occupied by a few English regiments shortly before em- 
 barkation. In the space of a few hundred yards I passed 
 not less than six cemeteries — viz., the one for the Sisters of 
 Mercy and doctors. Sailors* Hospital, Sanatorium, a large 
 Turkish one, and two belonging to the Sardinian troops. 
 Leaving the Marmora Monument on the left and the 
 Nightingale Cross on the right, I merely cast a coup-d’ ceil 
 to the tumble-down Sardinian hospital and fragment of 
 camp, and took the road to Kamara. Not a soul did I meet 
 for three miles while crossing the rustic road, cutting 
 immediately through the peak of these lofty mountains, 
 with their base in the Euxine on one side, and on the 
 other, through deep ravines, solemnly reposing on Balak- 
 lava’s glorious plain. No, nothing but a poor horse, who 
 had been ineffectually shot, was grazing near a pool of 
 blood. Life, the mother of all, seemed to have rescued 
 him from the grasp of Death — the animal was no longer 
 bleeding, the perforation made by the bullet appeared 
 to be healing up. I gathered him a heap of grass, gave 
 him some water from an adjacent rocky rivulet, washed 
 his wound, and to my regret abandoned him. 
 
 Shortly after, I crossed through the late camp of the 
 Highland Division, through the vales, dales, and rocky 
 mountains of Kamara. Russian officers and soldiers had 
 taken possession of Sir Colin Campbell and General 
 Cameron’s head-quarters, with its green turret. Although 
 no sentries were posted, any quantity of Tartars were 
 wandering about laden with spoils of the deserted camp. 
 What a contrast ! Only a few days ago this picturesque 
 spot was all life and animation ; indeed the cloth was 
 hardly removed from the festive board, the echo of the 
 shrill pibroch was still vibrating through the adjacent 
 mountains. It was there, only a short time since, that 
 I bade farewell to the brave generals. Sir Colin Campbell 
 and Cameron. Space will not allow me further to descant 
 on the past beauties of this scene ; a volume could be filled 
 
FAREWELL VISITS. 
 
 477 
 
 with its splendours. Not a mile from there stand the 
 fortifications, and mud-built huts of the Sardinians, look- 
 ing more like a deserted rabbit-warren than the abode of 
 an army ; it was on this spot they bravely withstood the 
 attack of the enemy at the battle of the Tchernaya on 
 the 16th of August, 1855. Gipsy families had taken 
 possession of a farm and small church on the left, which 
 is so well known. I looked with amazement at the once 
 blooming gardens of the French camp, and the myriads of 
 wild flowers. Death and desolation seemed then to be 
 the only attendants on this once fascinating scene. 
 Crossing the plain of Balaklava at full gallop, over 
 the celebrated ground where the grand charge of cavalry 
 took place, a distance of several miles, I perceived 
 a white speck : it was the remains of the grand ball-room 
 built by the French in honour of the birth of the Imperial 
 Prince. Heaps of ruins were perceptible at a great dis- 
 tance; this was the once over-populated, but now deserted, 
 Kadikoi. A few minutes after I reached the plateau of 
 Inkermann, arriving near the celebrated windmill where, 
 at the time of this battle, his Royal Highness the Duke 
 of Cambridge and staff were encamped (see Addenda). I 
 next proceeded through the park of artillery, and went 
 direct to the Light Division’s head-quarters, carefully 
 inspecting the late abode of Lord William Paulet, where 
 once more I met with a most cheering reception, this time 
 from a Tartar family who had taken possession, and they 
 supplied myself and horse with refreshment. The only 
 gloomy reminiscence from this spot was the sight of the 
 numerous graveyards, where mother earth had wrapped 
 in her bosom all that was mortal of many hundreds of her 
 brave sons. At the bottom of the ravine the watering- 
 place for the horses still remained. The water, as usual, was 
 gurgling on its way from tub to tub ; an abandoned mule 
 was alone slaking his thirst where once hundreds of horses 
 were to be seen drinking. From here it took me only a 
 few seconds to reach the Second Division and General 
 Barnard’s head-quarters. The Russians by this time had 
 indeed taken possession of all he had left there, though 
 still I must say that all things were here kept in good 
 order ; labouring men were making a garden close to the 
 
478 
 
 LAST VIEW OF SEBASTOPOL. 
 
 liut. Soon after this, roaming to the top of Cathcart's 
 Hill, I found the theatre and canteen in perfect keep- 
 ing, both having been burnt to the ground. Soyer's villa- 
 rette, though very dilapidated, still remained. The green 
 plot of grass was in great disorder, no doubt the work of 
 the loose horses, who, anticipating a feed, had found to 
 their disgust that art, for once, had been triumphant over 
 nature, and they accordingly vented their spite upon the 
 painted grass. The clergyman's hut had been respected. 
 General Garrett's palazzo had been invaded by an inde- 
 scribable miscellanea of animals. The rocky grotto, 
 which had been severally tenanted by General Sir John 
 Campbell, General Wyndham, General Paulet, General 
 Bentinck, and his Grace the Duke of Newcastle, was 
 left to the mercy of the rats, who here vegetated by 
 hundreds ; the floor was strewn with rags, paper, and 
 other rubbish, which had been gathered by these indus- 
 trious and destructive vermin. 
 
 Immediately after ascending and descending three 
 steps, hat in hand, I paid my last solemn duty and 
 respects to the resting-place of the dead brave. A picture 
 indeed it was to see the respect paid to those who had 
 so gloriously died for their country's cause — Pere la 
 Chaise or Kensal Green could not look in better condition 
 than this solitary cemetery. With my heart full of 
 emotion I bade adieu to this consecrated spot, and retired. 
 Once more, and for the last time, I gazed on the ruins 
 of Sebastopol. Life seemed to have deserted this once 
 mighty city ; one solitary chimney alone emitted smoke ; 
 the sun was still shining on this defunct place, which a 
 few days previous I had visited in detail, and found still 
 in the deserted state so often described. 
 
 Crossing Lord A. Bussell's Bifle's quarters, I soon 
 arrived in the Third Division. General Adams's vil- 
 larette had been turned into a farmhouse; sheep and 
 other cattle grazed in the ravine. 
 
 From this spot I visited the General Hospital located 
 in this division ; which I found in a similar state as the 
 Sanatorium. Not a sign of life was perceptible in this 
 mournful spot, where so lately I had witnessed so many 
 painful scenes. From here I journeyed to the Brigade 
 
END OF THE PILGRIMAGE. 
 
 479 
 
 of Guards, the theatre of my semi-martial debut , having* 
 previously inspected the intermediate camp. All was as 
 silent as the grave. A line of obstruction lay on the 
 ground where once the busy railway passed. The Rokeby 
 Castle and its vicinity had the appearance of a tra- 
 velling caravan of gipsies reposing; children in rags 
 escaped from the group to solicit alms ; a few halfpence 
 contented them. In the camp, the kitchen and a 
 number of huts had been burnt down ; the mess-room 
 of Colonel Foley was still ornamented with the rustic 
 chandelier which had been bequeathed to me by the 
 gallant colonel before his leaving. Colonels Walker, De 
 Bathe, and the late Colonel Drummond’s habitations 
 were selected as a home by the wandering tribe of gipsies. 
 
 General Craufurd’s head-quarters were uninhabited ; 
 a few loose horses were grazing near, on the celebrated 
 cricket-ground. The close of my visit was to the 
 English and French head-quarters ; in the former I was 
 informed the proprietor had reinstated himself on his^ 
 domains. The turmoil and traffic of war had here given 
 place to the quietude and repose of peace. The post- 
 office, telegraph, and printing machines had ceased their 
 movements ; the vineyards alone appeared refreshing to 
 the eye. Dr. Hall’s snuff-box hut was left open, and 
 partly unroofed; General Wyndham’s quarters were 
 quite deserted. The rope curtains taken from the 
 Redan, and laid on the ground before the hut door, was 
 all that remained which I could recognise, as they had 
 upon my demand, been presented to me by the general’s 
 aide-de-camp, whose name, to my regret, has escaped 
 my memory. 
 
 The French head-quarters presented a similar aspect, 
 but was more animated by crowds of adventurers. 
 
 Having on my way home taken a glimpse at the ruins 
 of the Seacole Tavern, Land Transport Corps, Army 
 Works Corps, and hospital, I arrived at Bleak House 
 (the head-quarters of Mr. Doyne the engineer), which 
 was drearier than ever, and, like a lost balloon in mid 
 air, entirely deserted ; all that remained was the almost 
 indescribable view which, at one glance, stamped the 
 scene as something more than beautiful. From the 
 
480 
 
 A FIRE AT KADIKOI. 
 
 rock where I stood I could pass in review the remainder 
 of the camp, as yet unexplored by me. On my left 
 once lay Colonel Wood’s park of artillery, and towards 
 it were a few mules clambering, led by Tartars. At 
 the foot of the hill were Captain Gordon’s late quarters ; 
 further on, on the next mound, were the head-quarters 
 of the Land Transport Corps, in the occupation of 
 Colonel M'Murdo and Captain Evans; but the most 
 striking object in view was the combined Railway 
 Station and Engine House, once the focus of noise, but 
 now the abode of repose. In abandoning this rural 
 spot, and running my eye a few hundred yards below 
 me, lay a most charmingly built villarette, most suitably 
 called Prospect House, which was the private residence 
 of Mr. Doyne. Science had here conquered what was 
 wanting in material; the goddess Flora had, like the 
 owner, abandoned this pretty landscape; the dry soil and 
 the sun’s rays had “dishabilled” each root from its flower. 
 The cavalry camp and its numerous rows of stables were 
 the last I visited. Dusk gently stole over the horizon 
 when I re-entered the Col of Balaklava. The stars were 
 brightly shining ; it was nine o’clock ; every bell in the 
 harbour was tolling. Before retiring to rest no less than 
 thirty-seven cemeteries did I count on my daily tablet, 
 which I had passed during my solitary wandering. 
 
 The night before the surrender of Balaklava, a large fire 
 broke out in the village of Kadikoi, which, had the wind 
 been high, would have destroyed more than a thousand 
 huts. As usual, the miscreant who had done the mis- 
 chief escaped detection. General Sir W. Codrington was 
 much vexed at this, as some huts had been sold to the 
 Russian officers. I was, in consequence, deputed by Mr. 
 Bennett, of the Army Works Corps, who was just leaving 
 in another vessel, (at that time I was on board the 
 Argo , and ready to sail the following day) to ac- 
 company the Russian officer to Sir W. Codrington, 
 to inform him of the fact that the money had been 
 received, and to request that it might be returned. Sir 
 William, though overwhelmed with business, it being 
 the eve of his departure, kindly attended to the Russian 
 officer’s request ; and the next morning, as I was going 
 
KEYS OE BALAKLAVA GIVEN UP. 
 
 481 
 
 on board the Argo , I had the pleasure of meeting’ the 
 Commander-in-chief on his way to the spot where the 
 fire had taken place, in order to assure himself that the 
 huts burnt were those which had been paid for. I had 
 a short walk and conversation with Sir William upon 
 various subjects, and took the opportunity of thanking 
 him for the following letter, with which he had kindly 
 favoured me, containing his opinion of my culinary 
 services during the war : — 
 
 Balaklava, July 9 Ui, 1856. 
 
 I believe Monsieur Soyer to have given great assistance in showing 
 the soldier how to get the best meal from the food that is given to 
 him ; and I have no doubt Monsieur Soyer’s stoves accomplish this 
 purpose in a standing camp or barracks with but little expenditure 
 of fuel. It gives me great pleasure to say that Monsieur Soyer 
 has always been ready to advise and personally superintend the 
 carrying out improvements in the system of cooking : his knowledge 
 and attention have therefore been of service to the army in the 
 Crimea. W. Codkington, General . 
 
 We then parted, the general going to Kadikoi ; and 
 I, to select my berth, and see Miss Nightingale’s carriage 
 shipped. 
 
 The day turned out fine, though rather gloomy in the 
 early part, and very windy. As the last day of such 
 a series of fine weather, it was anything but a promising 
 farewell. At twelve precisely, the keys of Balaklava were 
 to be given up. A picket of the Land Transport Corps 
 were placed on the small bridge at the Col of Balaklava. 
 
 A few minutes after, three or four gentlemen sailors, 
 accompanied by some parties whom we at first took 
 for heroic Kadikoi tradesmen, arrived at full gallop, 
 crying out — “ The Russians are coming !” which re- 
 port spread alarm through the camp, and in less than 
 two minutes caused all the troops, twenty-five in 
 number, to be under arms, and rush full speed upon the 
 assailants, by whom they were entirely defeated — as in a 
 few minutes Balaklava was retaken, and has ever since 
 remained in the hands of the Russians. Thus ended that 
 friendly battle of which I was so anxious to be an eye- 
 witness, where champagne flowed freely in lieu of blood. 
 
 The grand reception and ceremony was to take place 
 at the commandant’s head- quarters. A few minutes after 
 
483 
 
 FAREWELL CEREMONIES. 
 
 twelve. Captain Stamaki, the new governor of Balaklava, 
 made his appearance, accompanied by only one aide- 
 de-camp. Being met by the English authorities, he 
 made a full stop, and the password was exchanged, 
 I believe, in the Greek language. The governor of 
 Balaklava then galloped into his new kingdom. In 
 about twenty minutes a body-guard of about seventy 
 men, some on foot and some mounted, made their 
 appearance. The horsemen, upon nearer approach, 
 we found to be a picket of Cossacks. When about 
 one hundred yards from the bridge, the British picket 
 went towards them — the Russians having halted. This 
 conventional performance lasted but a few minutes; and 
 then the British posts were relieved by the Russians 
 as they passed on their way to the commandant’s, where 
 they were received by Sir W. Codrington, General 
 Garrett, Admirals Ereemantle, Stewart, Captain Cod- 
 rington, &c. &c. A squadron of the 56th, the last regi- 
 ment remaining in the Crimea, were in attendance with 
 their band. On one side were the English, and the 
 Russians opposite, for the first time on duty facing each 
 other in friendly feeling. The centre was occupied by 
 the authorities. Amongst the group of lookers-on was 
 the illustrious Mrs. Seacole, dressed in a riding-habit ; and 
 for the last time this excellent mother was bidding fare- 
 well to all her sons, thus ending her benevolent exertions 
 in the Crimea. Having given her my parting salute, I 
 left the mere noire for the Black Sea. The sun shone 
 brightly upon that animated group, now performing the 
 last scene of the great drama enacted upon those shores. 
 
 A few minutes after the curtain had fallen, spectators 
 and performers had separated, and all were entering upon 
 their new duties. The last remnant of the British army 
 was that day ordered to sail for home. 
 
 The weather, which had been rather boisterous, in- 
 creased in violence; and in consequence, the captain of 
 the Argo , with whom I had been in company since the 
 morning to witness the grand closing scene, made sure 
 that we should not sail till the next day. He therefore 
 proposed inviting several of the Russian officers to dine 
 on board. This I immediately communicated to them 
 
A DINNER POSTPONED. 
 
 483 
 
 in French, and they politely accepted the invitation. 
 The party was six in number ; among those invited, was 
 Monsieur le Conte de Maison, a French nobleman, who 
 had lived many years in Russia, and was a large proprietor 
 in the Crimea. After replying to several of his questions, 
 I told him my name. He appeared doubly interested, 
 having heard, as he said, so much about me in the 
 Crimea. In Russia this gentleman was looked upon as 
 an epicure, and probably the interest he felt in my 
 acquaintance had something to do with the good dinner 
 he anticipated. Dinner was to have been upon the table 
 at six, and at half-past five the boat of the Argo was to 
 fetch them on board. All was settled, and a pleasant 
 evening with our new friends expected. A violent shower 
 of rain scattered us in all directions, and, much to our 
 sorrow, we never met again. 
 
 We had hardly regained the ship, when Admiral 
 Stewart came on board and ordered the captain to sail 
 immediately. I went home through the rain to inform 
 my people of the sudden change of orders, and found 
 they had already heard the news and had started. I 
 arrived just in time to prevent a Tartar stealing one of 
 my horses, of which I had made a present to Mr. Smith, 
 a wine-merchant, as there was no possibility of selling 
 him. Horse-dealing with the Russians about that time 
 was pretty much after this fashion : a rather decent 
 horse would fetch from three to five roubles — which 
 latter sum makes a pound sterling. Under these cir- 
 cumstances, to place them in good hands was not only a 
 charity, but a duty. 
 
 Everybody had got on board, and the new-comers 
 were under shelter. The rain fell heavily, and not a soul 
 did I meet in my way from the General Hospital to the 
 Argo , which was lying at the other side of the harbour. 
 Nobody was out but myself, my horse, and my umbrella, 
 which I had much difficulty in holding up in the gale 
 I was then braving. The thousands who had witnessed 
 and mingled with the noisy crowd which for so many 
 months had encumbered the place, can form but a faint 
 idea of the gloomy appearance of the desolate Balaklava- 
 
 i i ^ 
 
484 
 
 CHAPTER XXX YI. 
 
 LAST SCENE OE THIS EVENTFUL HISTORY. 
 
 Farewell to the Crimea — Last glimpses — A collision — Rough weather 
 — A strange coincidence — The Russian foundling — His history — 
 A metamorphosis — The Sultan’s banquet — Sight-seeing at Con- 
 stantinople — Last visit to the City of Palaces — “ The Culinary 
 wonder of all nations” — Holiday tour — The Author makes his 
 bow. 
 
 On board ship all was bustle and confusion. As the vessel 
 steamed slowly out, we passed the few remaining steamers, 
 including the bold Algiers , Captain Codrington, which was 
 smoking with might and main. We went ahead, digging, 
 our way through the mountainous waves, which appeared 
 to have accumulated in the harbour purposely to say fare- 
 well, or dash our brains out against the bulwarks or the 
 perpendicular rocks of the bay. Black, sulphurous, and 
 reddish clouds were rolling from mountain to mountain, 
 burying the peaks of each in their course, and giving the 
 aspect of a universal deluge, by the union of earth to 
 heaven. We could perceive nothing excepting now and 
 then a glimpse of two white spots : one was the Sar- 
 dinian funeral monument, dedicated to their defunct 
 heroes ; the other, the white marble Nightingale Cross, 
 which, as I have before mentioned, had just been erected 
 by that lady to the memory of departed heroes, and 
 the deceased Sisters of Charity and Mercy. So rough a 
 day had not visited us since that eventful one on which 
 Sebastopol had fallen. It was getting dark, and a misty 
 rain kept falling, which made any but joyful reminiscences 
 of our final departure from the theatre of war and the 
 arid soil of the Crimea. The sable veil of night sogn fell 
 over our colossal steamer, the Argo , as she pitched and 
 rolled in the hollow of the sea, having on board three hun- 
 dred horses — a rather awkward cargo, — besides having 
 
I 
 
 A NIGHT AT SEA. 
 
 485 
 
 been only recently patched up from some serious damage 
 she had received in consequence of a collision with a 
 French man-of-war. It had made a large hole in her, 
 and carried away her figure-head. She had been for 
 some time in the greatest danger in consequence of 
 this, and though not materially so on the night of our 
 departure, the remembrance of the accident was dis- 
 agreeable enough to make all uncomfortable and spoil 
 our appetites. A few extras had been added to the bill 
 of fare in anticipation of the visit of our Russian friends ; 
 but I beg to inform my readers that I and a few of my 
 compagnons cle voyage saw no more of the banquet than 
 did our much-disappointed guests on shore, who may 
 probably think the invitation was a joke played off upon 
 them by the captain, and that he was aware of the time 
 of his departure.* 
 
 At about eleven, most of the passengers retired to 
 their fully-inhabited cabin. The captain passed the night 
 upon deck ; so did I partly, as Morpheus often refuses 
 to visit me when I am upon the mighty ocean, in either 
 rough or smooth weather. Three times was the deck 
 submerged by the heavy seas, washing the passengers 
 from larboard to starboard, and vice versa — a sort of 
 gymnastic exercise neither pleasant to man nor beast. 
 Several horses broke their lashings and fell during those 
 heavy shocks. The next morning was riot more pleasant, 
 but the afternoon turned out fine. At about three 
 everybody was on deck, cheerfully conversing, walking, 
 reading, smoking, &c. Nothing, I believe, is so soon 
 forgotten as rough weather at sea, especially when the 
 sun favours one with a few brilliant smiles. The dinner- 
 table was well attended, and everybody very chatty. I 
 sat near the captain and General Garrett. The former 
 (whose anxiety seemed to have entirely disappeared) said 
 to me, “ I am going to relate a curious incident respect- 
 
 # I take this opportunity of informing Monsieur le Conte de 
 Maison, to whom I shall do myself the pleasure of sending a copy 
 of this work, that the disappointment was on our side, and that — * 
 the captain in particular — all regretted the impossibility of acquaint- 
 ing those gentlemen with our sudden departure. 
 
486 
 
 PERSONAL ANECDOTE. 
 
 ing yourself, Monsieur, of which you are perhaps not 
 aware, but you will call it to mind when I tell you.” 
 u What is it? I hope it is nothing likely to bring 
 me into discredit, or to shock my modesty ?” 
 
 “ On the contrary, it is all in your favour.” 
 
 “ Such being the case, pray proceed. What think 
 you, General Garrett ?” said I. 
 
 “ By all means,” he replied. 
 
 cc Do you remember,” the captain began, ce on the 
 morning of the 8th September, as you were coming 
 back to your camp, meeting with two naval officers who 
 were endeavouring to pass the lines in order to get to 
 Cathcart’s Hill and have a sight of the storming of 
 Sebastopol ?” 
 
 “ That I do ; and what’s more extraordinary, I do not 
 know their names : in fact, I could not make out who 
 they were, nor where they came from.” 
 
 “ These are the very points on which I am about to 
 enlighten you. You rendered them an important ser- 
 vice on that occasion by your hospitality, for which 
 I can assure you they are even to this day very 
 grateful.” 
 
 “ They were very welcome ; but who were they ?” 
 u At the time the adventure occurred, they both 
 belonged to this ship : one was our doctor, and the other 
 the son of a member of the company, who intends, upon 
 your arrival in England, to give you an invitation to 
 spend a few days at his seat near Southampton.” 
 
 “ I am much obliged ; but pray, when you see them, 
 say I am already highly repaid for anything I did, as it 
 was entirely through them I had the high honour of 
 dining with General Windham upon the day on which 
 he immortalized himself as the hero of the Redan.” 
 u You don’t say so !” exclaimed the captain. 
 
 Perceiving his astonishment, I related the circum- 
 stances mentioned in a former chapter. Of course these 
 were well known to General Garrett. 
 
 It was with regret I was leaving the Crimea without 
 knowing the heroes of this simple, though to me singular,, 
 adventure. How strange it is that at last, and upon my 
 
A RUSSIAN FOUNDLING. 
 
 487 
 
 way home, I should ascertain that which I had so often 
 inquired about ! 
 
 A few rounds of champagne to their health and pros- 
 perity terminated this singular affair. 
 
 The invalided Argo had regained her perpendicular 
 upon the smooth surface of the ocean, and stood as 
 firm as St. Paul’s upon its foundations. In fact, the 
 good vessel appeared quite motionless, and made our 
 ocean saloon as lively as any upon terra firma. The night 
 seemed to be jealous of the fineness of the day, and not a 
 breath of wind disturbed its serenity. The unwieldy 
 ship glided over the sea, which flashed as though it had 
 been a lake of diamonds. The breeze was just strong 
 enough to fill the few sails spread to catch it. Every one 
 was upon deck, as busy as bees upon a hot summers day. 
 The order was given to muster the soldiers and lower- 
 deck passengers, and in a few minutes they were all upon 
 the main-deck. Amongst them appeared a lad all in 
 rags, barefooted, and with a black and a blue eye. His 
 dirty, ragged jacket was covered with blood and mud. 
 He stood cross-legged and leaning upon his elbow against 
 the coping of the bulwarks, his right hand thrust in the 
 hole where a pocket had no doubt once existed. The lad, 
 in spite of his attire, looked as brisk and independent as 
 a modern Diogenes or a Robert Macaire. To the ques- 
 tions put to him by the captain, he replied somewhat in 
 the style of the Grecian philosopher to Alexander the 
 Great. There was, however, this difference — those great 
 men understood each other, while the captain’s English 
 was entirely lost upon the ragged hero. After several 
 attempts and failures on the part of the captain, a gen- 
 tleman, Mr. Souter, who spoke the Russian language, 
 interrogated him, and asked him how he got on board. 
 His reply was, “ With the baggage, to be sure.” He 
 then, boldly and in a fine tone of voice, suiting the action 
 to the word, told the following tale : — “ I am an orphan 
 and a Russian serf belonging to Prince Meshersky. My 
 name is Daniel Maximovitch Chimachenka ; and since 
 my owner, the prince, went to the war, the serfs have 
 been much ill-treated by the agent in charge. This was 
 
488 
 
 A ROMANTIC STORY. 
 
 particularly the case with myself, as I was attached to 
 the agent’s personal service. He beat me daily, and gave 
 me scarcely anything to eat. One day, two English 
 officers passed through the village, and I held their 
 horses for them while they took some refreshment. 
 When they came out, they gave me a shilling. Though 
 it was nearly dark, I watched the road they went, and 
 followed them at a distance. After walking some time, 
 I lost sight of them, and slept in the wood till daybreak. 
 Two days after, having travelled through forests and 
 over mountains in order to avoid detection, I found 
 myself at Balaklava. This was only just before the 
 departure of the fleet. I was determined to follow those 
 kind people the English, who had given me so much 
 money for so little work. Being aware that you were all 
 going away, I bethought myself of hiding on board one 
 of your ships, thinking that when discovered you could 
 not treat me worse than the prince’s agent had done. I 
 made the attempt in two different vessels, but was dis- 
 covered and put on shore again. This vessel being one of 
 the last, I went on board assisting some Maltese sailors 
 with the luggage, and amidst the bustle managed to 
 hide away amongst the horses.” In this manner the 
 youth got to Constantinople. 
 
 The following letter, published in the journal of that 
 city, will inform my readers of the rest : — 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, now so well known in the East, has taken under 
 his protection a Bussian boy who was in the greatest destitution, 
 having stowed himself away on hoard the steam -ship Argo at Bala- 
 klava. He was only discovered when the muster of soldiers and 
 deck-passengers was called. The poor lad was in rags and bare- 
 footed. He had received a terrible contusion on the head, and his 
 black swollen eyes and blood-stained lace rendered his appearance 
 anything but prepossessing. Being cross-questioned by a passenger 
 who understood Bussian, he stated that he got on board under 
 pretence of assisting the sailors with some luggage, and contrived 
 to hide himself amongst the horses till the ship was at sea, fearing 
 that he should be put on shore, as had already happened to him 
 twice before. During the night, he came upon deck and fell asleep. 
 About three in the morning, a violent hurricane came on, and a 
 heavy sea broke over the bows, nearly washing the soldiers and himself 
 overboard. It was at this juncture that he received the contusion, 
 
LOOK TJPON THIS PICTURE AND ON THAT. 489 
 
 and became for some time senseless. He asked for nothing to eat 
 during the passage, fearing discovery, but satisfied the cravings of 
 hunger with orange-peel and pieces of broken biscuit, which the 
 soldiers had thrown about the deck. He said that he was an orphan, 
 twelve years old, and left his native village through the ill-treatment 
 of his owner’s agent. Some English gentlemen, in passing through 
 the village, gave him a piece of money for holding their horses ; 
 so he decided upon following such kind people, in the hope of 
 obtaining employment and living amongst them.* He appears very 
 intelligent, and is quite indignant at being taken for a Tartar. He 
 is, he says, a true Russian. Instead of allowing him to be turned 
 adrift in Constantinople, Monsieur Soyer claimed and took him 
 under his protection, taking a certificate from the captain to that 
 effect, in presence of General Garrett and his Staff, who were passen- 
 gers on board the Argo. As he is now free, no doubt a prosperous 
 future is in store for the poor Russian lad, through the kindness of 
 Monsieur Soyer . — Journal de Constantinople et Echo de V Orient, 
 Thursday, 21st July, 1856. 
 
 THE BOY AS POUND. THE BOY AS HE IS. 
 
 * Yalta, the place from whence he started, was a distance of 
 forty miles by road from Balaklava; the journey, however, took the 
 lad six days, as he did not know the direct road. He also informed 
 me that at night he used to climb and sleep in a tree, fearing the 
 wild animals, feeding on wild fruit and beech -nuts. 
 
490 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE AGAIN. 
 
 While on shore at Constantinople, I sent this unsightly 
 and dirty-looking urchin to a Turkish bath, and by this 
 simple, “ gentle/* and delightful Oriental process removed 
 two or three coats of dirt from his skin. I had a suit of 
 livery a la Rtisse made for him, which greatly improved his 
 appearance. When quite recovered from the effects of 
 his bruises and black eye, he turned out to be a very 
 smart, clean, and extremely intelligent lad. So grateful 
 was he for my kindness, that he came every morning at 
 six o* clock to fetch my clothes to brush, kissing my hands 
 at the same time, whether awake or asleep, as a mark of 
 his gratitude. I have him with me in London, and in- 
 tend to educate him, and hope he will turn out a good 
 man of business and useful to society. It is most 
 probable that had he been left to himself in Constanti- 
 nople, he would have become a great rascal or a thief ; 
 for he possesses enough intelligence to be either a clever, 
 honest man, or an arrant rogue. 
 
 We were anchored in the Bosphorus, opposite the Bar- 
 rack Hospital. It was about ten in the morning. Every- 
 body had an extra wash upon the occasion, and all were 
 dressed in their best. The weather was very warm and 
 fine, and all appeared gay and merry. General Garrett 
 being anxious to see the wonders of the Mahomedan city, 
 I offered, as I was now pretty well acquainted with its 
 chefs-d’oeuvre, to be his cicerone, which offer he immediately 
 accepted. We started, accompanied by Colonel Hughes 
 and Major Dallas. After paying our respects to Admiral 
 Grey at the Admiralty, we hired two caiques and repaired 
 to the ancient quarter of Stamboul. There we took horses, 
 and for six hours ascended and descended the intolerable 
 muddy and badly-paved streets of the real Constanti- 
 nople, where are to be seen so many Mussulman works 
 of art — viz. : St. Sophia, the Bazaar, Seraglio Palace, 
 and Hippodrome, &c. &c. &c., with which the general 
 and suite were much delighted. Our intention was to 
 dine at Messirie*s Hotel, and we had just arrived there, 
 when we were informed that the Sultan that day in- 
 tended to give a grand dinner in honour of Generals 
 
VISIT TO THE AMBASSADOR. 
 
 491 
 
 Pelissier and Codrington. Captain Hall, who brought 
 the news, requested General Garrett to pay an imme- 
 diate visit to Lord Redcliffe, adding, that no doubt 
 the ambassador would wish him to be present. General 
 Garrett replied — ■“ It would be utterly impossible for 
 me to be present at the ceremony, inasmuch as I 
 cannot get my uniform, which is at the bottom of the 
 hold of the Argo. I will, however, pay my respects to 
 Lord Stratford.” 
 
 We immediately started for that purpose. The general 
 remained some time with our ambassador, and upon 
 coming out informed us of the kind reception and invi- 
 tation he had received to be present at the grand Dolma 
 Batchi Palace banquet, saying he must manage to go 
 somehow. The only difficulty was to get his own uni- 
 form, or any other that would fit him, for the occasion. 
 I merely left my card at the Embassy, intending to pay 
 my respects to Lord Stratford some other day. 
 
 This banquet had been postponed for several days, on 
 account of the non-arrival of Sir W. Codrington from 
 Balaklava. The dinner was at last decided to take place 
 on the 18th of July, 1856, at seven o’clock. The English 
 general had not arrived, but was hourly expected. About 
 three p.m. his ship appeared in sight, and at five entered 
 the Bosphorus. All on board who were invited were 
 ready dressed; so they only had to disembark at the 
 splendid marble terrace which forms the landing-place of 
 the Sultan’s new palace of Dolma Batchi, where nu- 
 merous attendants were waiting to receive them. But, 
 as usual, “ Man proposes, and God disposes.” The severe 
 gale we encountered on leaving Balaklava, far from sparing 
 the great Algiers , had delayed her more than it did our 
 good ship. While passing in front of Therapia, her 
 progress was again arrested by one of the most furious 
 hurricanes ever known in the Bosphorus. 
 
 The illustrious guests had arrived minus the Com- 
 mander-in-chief, who was expected every minute. They 
 were sitting in the grand reception-room. The dinner- 
 hour arrived, and the doors of the magnificent Mahome- 
 
492 
 
 AN ORIENTAL BANQUET. 
 
 dan hall were thrown open to the assembled guests. 
 They were amazed at the splendour and richness of the 
 architecture of that cathedral-like throne-room, which 
 is a perfect copy of St. Sophia on a very splendid 
 scale, the dome being only fourteen feet less in height 
 than that of St. Sophia. The appearance of the table, 
 placed in the centre, though very large and well garnished 
 with elegant table ornaments, fruits, flowers, and a most 
 recherche dessert, left, as far as the dinner goes, much to 
 desire. The mixture of French and Turkish cookery, of 
 which I much approve, would have been preferable to all 
 French, so difficult of perfect execution, particularly at 
 Constantinople. As a whole, the coup-d’odl was perfectly 
 pyramidal and magical. The guests were seated ac- 
 cording to rank and precedence, and each had his name 
 and number on his plate, which plan prevented any 
 confusion. The soup, as well as several hors-d’ oeuvres 
 and other dishes, had been handed round, when a tre- 
 mendous hurricane shook the frame of the stupendous 
 edifice, extinguished the lights in the orchestra, and 
 made the colossal chandelier (perhaps the largest in the 
 world) swing to and fro until fears were entertained of 
 its falling. For a short time we were uncertain whether 
 it was a hurricane or an earthquake; and though the 
 festive board was encircled by old invincibles whom the 
 cannon of Sebastopol had never unnerved for a minute, 
 it must be confessed that the fear of an earthquake pro- 
 duced an ominous silence. 
 
 In a short time the music recommenced, and every one 
 was himself again. The busy traffic of a large banquet had 
 resumed its regular course ; the guests had forgotten this 
 vexatious event, and were conversing cheerfully. When 
 the dinner had been removed, and the dessert was placed 
 upon the table, the band played the “ Sultan’s Grand 
 March,” and his Sublime Majesty entered in all his 
 Oriental pomp, followed by the dignitaries of the empire. 
 This pageant was indeed worthy of the antique style of 
 Oriental grandeur. Still, it is to be regretted that it had 
 lost much of its magnificence from having been simplified 
 
FALSE REPORTS. 
 
 493 
 
 and modernized. After this gracious mark of cordial 
 union between the Mahomedan monarch and his Allied 
 guests, which has been so well and elegantly described 
 by the public press, the Sultan retired ; and thus ended 
 this sumptuous entertainment, which will ever hold a 
 distinguished place in the gastronomic annals of nations. 
 It was at least the first, and probably will prove the last, 
 at which the magnates of three great nations met together 
 beneath the roof of the great Pacha^s palace to partake 
 of Mahomedan hospitality a la Frangaise , which in my 
 opinion ought to have been Anglo-Franko, but at all 
 events half Turko. 
 
 The only thing to be regretted was the untoward absence 
 of Sir W. Codrington, which happened as follows : — The 
 Algiers started a few hours after the Argo ; but being con- 
 siderably heavier than that vessel — being a man of war— 
 and owing to the bad weather and foul winds, she arrived 
 ten hours after us, instead of four or six, as had been, 
 expected. In spite of this delay, she would have arrived 
 in time, but for the extraordinary hurricane which came 
 on as she entered the Bosphorus. Every gentleman 
 invited was dressed and ready to land upon arriving at 
 Dolma Batchi Stairs. It was all to no purpose ; for 
 on coming before Therapia, the safety of the ship com- 
 pelled the captain to order the anchors to be let go ; and 
 as no caiques could venture out, it was impossible to land. 
 My chief reason for mentioning this fact is because it 
 was reported in Constantinople and Pera that the French 
 and English commanders of the Allied armies disagreed 
 politically, and would not meet. Through my friendly 
 influence with important persons in Constantinople and 
 Pera, I caused this report to be contradicted by the 
 press, as it might have left an evil impression upon the 
 public mind. 
 
 The Argo was to sail about four p.m. the next day. 
 At two I went on board to claim my Russian protege \ 
 and found the boy, who was aware of my being in Con- 
 stantinople, and as the steamer was about to sail, had lost 
 all hope of being rescued by me. In expectation of 
 
494 
 
 MY NEW CHARGE. 
 
 being landed at Constantinople and left to the mercy of 
 the world, he was seated on the poop of the ship, 
 anxiously looking out with the same anxiety as Sister 
 Anne from the top of the tower, in the tale of Bluebeard , 
 to see if any one was coming. At length he perceived 
 a caique with two caidjees approaching the ship Argo ; 
 in it was seated a rather stout gentleman, dressed in the 
 Oriental style, as he afterwards related, with a large 
 white round hat, encircled with a turban of white and 
 red gauze, and wearing a bournous. “It can only be 
 my new master,” exclaimed the boy to those around — or 
 at all events he made them comprehend as much. 
 Nothing could exceed the boy’s joy when I set foot upon 
 deck ; but, as I was not aware of his anxiety, I took but 
 little notice of him, as I had many persons to see in a 
 short space of time. Observing this, the poor lad began 
 to cry. Had he been retaken, he would have been sent 
 to the mines for fifteen years, and afterwards as a soldier 
 for life. I requested the captain to draw up a statement 
 to the effect that the boy had run away of his own accord, 
 and begged of General Garrett to be present as a 
 witness ; and he was accordingly transmitted to me as 
 a free boy from the time of his destitution. 
 
 The following is a copy of the statement : — 
 
 Steam-ship “ Argo ,” Constantinople , 1 Qth July, 1856. 
 
 I hereby certify that a Bussian boy, about twelve or fifteen years 
 of age, was found on board this ship after leaving the Crimea. He 
 states that he came on board for the purpose of getting employment. 
 His name, he says, is Daniel, and that he was a serf of Prince 
 Meshersky’s. Monsieur Soyer, a passenger on board, now takes 
 him into his service, to prevent his starving. 
 
 H. B. Benson, Commander . 
 
 N.B. — The hoy’s name is Daniel Maximovitch Chimachenka. He 
 says he is an orphan — has been very badly treated by his master’s 
 steward — and begged of Monsieur Soyer to grant him protection, 
 and is very willing to go with him wheresoever he pleases rather than 
 return to his former master. As he was quite destitute on arriving 
 at Constantinople, Monsieur Soyer is kind enough to take him under 
 his protection. 
 
 I hereby certify that the above is quite correct, having interro- 
 gated the boy in his own language (Bussian). 
 
 P. Pouteau, Kt. S. A . 
 
SIGHT-SEEING. 
 
 495 
 
 I then bade a cordial farewell to all my compagnons de 
 voyage , who were very anxious to have my company to 
 London ; but I had made up my mind to take six months 5 
 holiday, and travel wherever my fancy might lead me ; 
 especially to my native city of Meaux, which I had not 
 seen for twenty-six long years. I also wished to write 
 this work in peace, having lost my notes. I informed 
 them that I could not have the pleasure of accompany- 
 ing them, as I meant to take a Continental tour, but 
 hoped to meet them in London upon my return, which 
 would probably be in the beginning of the then ensuing 
 spring. 
 
 Wishing to visit at my leisure the civil and military 
 institutions of this interesting city of Constantine, and, 
 above all, to become well acquainted with the system of 
 cookery, in which I had already recognised a deal of 
 merit and originality, I determined to remain some weeks 
 at Constantinople, as well as to offer to his Sublime 
 Majesty the Sultan, through the kind intercession of 
 Lord de Redcliffe, to whom I had paid my humble 
 duty, a complete set of my various culinary works, 
 as well as my magic and model stoves. I established 
 myself at the hotel, and, accompanied by a friend, 
 and my Russian boy dressed a la Cosaque , proceeded to 
 visit on horseback all the curiosities of the Mahomedan 
 city. 
 
 As I have already observed, though I frequently wished 
 to inspect minutely the great metropolis of Constantine, 
 my incessant duties never allowed me time for this: 
 I therefore now devoted my leisure time to seeing 
 Constantinople. I had fixed three weeks as the space 
 requisite to visit in detail the wonders of that city. To 
 do this, I engaged a dragoman of some intelligence, and 
 requested him to conduct me to every place worthy of 
 being seen, at the same time acquainting him that three 
 weeks would be the utmost stay I should make in 
 Constantinople. 
 
 Having obtained a firman, or passe-partout , we were 
 to be seen flying from palace to palace, mosque to mosque, 
 bazaar to bazaar, kiosque to kiosque, hospital to hospital, 
 
496 
 
 LETTER TO THE “TIMES.” 
 
 cemetery to cemetery, prison to prison; from turning to 
 howling dervishes, and from the Sweet Waters of Europe 
 to those of Asia, and last, not least, to the Sultan’s kitchen, 
 which to me was the only object of paramount interest. 
 
 Almost every one attached to the army had left the 
 banks of the Bosphorus and returned to England. Only 
 now and then did one meet a British uniform in Pera. 
 These were the officers of the Commissariat or the 
 Turkish Contingent. Amongst the former were Com- 
 missaries Smith, Adams, Osborn, &c. 
 
 The post-office and hospitals were given up : Therapia 
 and Buyukdere alone could boast of possessing the tail 
 of the British army and navy. General Storks was still 
 on a visit to Lord Stratford de Bedcliffe ; Sir Edmund 
 Lyons was on board his splendid man-of-war, the Royal 
 Albert , in the Bosphorus; Admiral Grey had left, and 
 only a few acting naval men remained at the Admiralty. 
 
 I afterwards addressed the following letter which 
 appeared in the Times : — 
 
 M. Sotee at Constantinople. 
 
 To the Editor of the Times . 
 
 Sir, — I n reply to no end of inquiries from persons meeting me in 
 the streets of Pera, Bujukdere, Therapia, the Isles des Princes, &c., 
 as to what I am doing in Turkey now the whole of the army has 
 gone, and as every one here seems so anxious, probably others may 
 feel interested, it has struck me, sir, to inform you personally why 
 I remain here. In the first place, Constantinople arid its vicinity 
 are far from being destitute of vital interest, and those who have 
 only seen its beauty from the Bosphorus, and then at first sight 
 condemned the interior- of this gigantic city of Constantine, have 
 seen nothing, and are utterly incompetent to speak of it, much less 
 to write upon the curiosities, manners, customs, and way of living, 
 of this singular and almost unknown people, though lodged nearly 
 in the centre of Europe. Thanks now to my last visit to Constan- 
 tinople, which time nor duty did not admit of before, I now know 
 it and its neighbourhood as well as London, and much better than 
 Paris. I am pretty well acquainted with Turkish institutions, as 
 well as manners and habits, which indeed deviate so much from our 
 fashions that they cannot prove uninteresting to relate, if not to 
 follow. Though so many authors have written upon Turkey, they 
 have yet left me several virgin pages, and those pages are upon the 
 national cookery of the Moslem people. 
 
 They have many dishes which are indeed worthy of the table of 
 
TURKISH TARE. 
 
 497 
 
 the greatest epicure, and I shall not consider my Oriental mission 
 terminated to my satisfaction till I see in the hills of fare of France 
 and England their puree de volaille au ris, tomates, et concombres, 
 and puree de Bahmia aromatisee a la creme, by the side of our 
 potages a la Eeine, Tortue, J ullienne, and Mulligatawny ; near our 
 whitebait, red mullets, turbot, and salmon, their fried sardines, bar 
 fish, gurnet, sturgeon, red mullets aux herbes, oyster pilaff, mackerel, 
 salad, &c. ; and with our roast beef, saddle-back of mutton, and 
 haunch of venison, their sheep, lamb, or kid roasted whole, and the 
 monster and delicious kebab ; by our entrees of supreme de volaille, 
 salmis, and vol-aux-vents, their doulmas kioftee, sis kebabs, hahar- 
 ram bouton, pilaff au cailles, &c. ; with our vegetables, their Bahmia, 
 fried leeks and celery, Partligan bastici, and sakath kabac bastici ; 
 with our macedoines, jellies, charlottes, &c., their lokounds, mouka- 
 halibi, Baclava gyneristi, ekmekataive. Their coffee, iced milk, and 
 sherbet — in fact, all their principal dishes might, with the best 
 advantage, be adopted and Frenchified and Anglicised. Not so their 
 method of serving, in which they mix sweet and savoury dishes 
 throughout the repast ; and less likely still their method of eating 
 with their fingers, though, after several trials, I must admit that it 
 has some peculiar advantages ; their sauces being of a thinnish 
 nature, require to be absorbed with a piece of bread in order to par- 
 take of them, which could not be performed equally well with a 
 knife or fork. Their custom of serving only one hot dish at a time 
 is not new to us, we having borrowed it from the Russians, who 
 probably took it from the Turks. No nation as yet has been able 
 to boast of having introduced a single innovation in the way of 
 living to this singularly incommunicative race, the cause of which 
 I can only attribute to the immense distance placed between the 
 relative social position of the two sexes : for while in Europe the 
 “beau sexe ” forms the soul of society and sociability, in Turkey 
 they are kept in entire seclusion, and almost without any kind of 
 education. My stay here has not only produced me the high honour 
 of an interview with the Sultan, but also the advantage of becoming 
 acquainted with one of the most useful and principal officers of his 
 Sublime Majesty’s household, called the Hachji Bachji, or general- 
 in-chief of the culinaiy department of his Sublime Majesty the 
 Padischah, and he speaks with pri^e of having held that office five 
 years with the late Sultan and Padischah Mahmoud, and has now 
 retained it seventeen years with his present Sublime Majesty. 
 Independent of the private kitchen of the Sultan, he has under his 
 command in the various palaces about six hundred men cooks, and 
 had in the time of Sultan Mahmoud upwards of one thousand. 
 Having expressed a wish to become acquainted with some of the 
 principal Turkish dishes, and the way in which the dinner was 
 served, he not only gave me the required information, but invited 
 me to a dinner, “ a la Turc at the new palace of Dolma Batchi. 
 We were only four guests, including himself; above seventy small 
 dishes formed a luxurious bill of fare, which, after the Turkish fashion, 
 
 K K 
 
498 
 
 CLOSING LABOUES. 
 
 were partaken of quickly, as the Moslems only taste a mouthful of 
 each dish which may take their fancy. He then informed me that 
 the repast we had partaken of was the facsimile of the dinner 
 daily served up to his Majesty the Padischah, who always takes his 
 meals alone, and as no hill of fare is made, every dish in the Turkish 
 cookery code must be prepared daily throughout the year, and only 
 varies in quantity according to the abundance or scarcity of the 
 provisions to he obtained in the various seasons, so that his Sublime 
 Majesty may find everything he may desire within his Imperial call. 
 .Further details upon this subject I shall give when I publish my other 
 work, which will be entitled “ The Culinary Wonder of all Nations.” 
 
 The Armenian cookery turns very much upon the Turkish style, 
 while the Greek has a type of its own, which, I regret to say, is far 
 from meeting with my approbation, though in high Greek families I 
 have partaken of most excellent dinners ; but the Turkish dishes were 
 always the most satisfactory, the common cookery of the Greeks 
 being sloppy and greasy, while, per contra , the Turk has studied 
 the art of preserving the essence of all the provisions employed, 
 which method will at all times produce a palatable as well as a 
 nutritive food. Prior to my departure, which will be in a few days, 
 I shall pay a visit to Scutari, to contrast the present state of that 
 busy spot with its now, as I hear, totally deserted aspect. My 
 remarks upon this subject I shall do myself the pleasure of sending 
 in a future letter, in hopes that they may prove interesting to the 
 thousands who have visited that celebrated place on the Asiatic side 
 of the Bosphorus. 
 
 With the highest consideration, I have the honour to remain. 
 
 Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 JPera , Constantinople , Hotel cU Angleterre, A. Soyeb. 
 
 Sept. 8, 1856. 
 
 This visit was more laborious than most persons may 
 imagine, but the idea of beginning a new and agreeable 
 campaign, after having terminated a long, dreary, and 
 perilous one, was very pleasing. I was free as regarded 
 my actions, and my health was partly restored. Shortly 
 after my arrival at Scutari^my governmental mission as 
 well as hospital duties ceased, these establishments being 
 closed. I therefore settled everything with the Purveyor- 
 in-chief, Mr. J. S. Robertson, General Storks, Miss 
 Nightingale, and Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, who all 
 honoured me with documents expressive of their high 
 approbation of my services. Prior to my final departure, 
 I sent the full report of my proceedings and labours at 
 Scutari, as well as in the camp, to Lord Stratford de 
 Redcliffe. 
 
THE SULTANAS ANTE-CHAMBER. 
 
 499 
 
 The following is his Excellency's reply : — 
 
 Therapia, August 2nd, 1856. 
 
 Dear Monsieur Soyer, — I return you the papers you were good 
 enough to send for my perusal. The honourable testimonials you 
 have obtained have been well earned. 
 
 I shall have much pleasure in asking the Sultan’s permission as to 
 your sending him the articles you mention. 
 
 A Monsieur Sincerely yours. 
 
 Monsieur Soyer. Stratford de Redcliffe. 
 
 The day after the receipt of the above letter from 
 his Excellency I was summoned by Mr. Etienne Pizanni, 
 the first dragoman of the Embassy, who left a message 
 at the Hotel d'Angleterre to the effect that the following 
 morning I was to be at Topane Cannon Foundry landing- 
 place, with the various articles I intended to offer for 
 the acceptance of his Sublime Majesty. At ten o'clock 
 precisely I arrived. The caique of the Embassy was 
 already waiting. A few minutes after we had crossed 
 the short and chopping waves, aux collerettes d’ argent, 
 or bright silver hue, which, with the morning breeze, 
 take birth in that fairy lake, the cradle of romance 
 and beauty, as night approaches. Shortly after we were 
 safely landed on the monster marble quay, the private 
 landing-place of the Sultan, which proudly unites the 
 Bosphorus with the gigantic palace of Dolma Batchi; 
 from here we were inducted to the Grand Chamberlain's 
 kiosque, where coffee-cups and chiboques of great value, 
 being ornamented with gold, pearls, emeralds, and 
 diamonds, were filled by slaves and handed to us, and 
 partaken of with great gusto. 
 
 In a few minutes Prince Galamaki was shown into the 
 apartment. He had come for the purpose of taking 
 leave of his Sublime master prior to leaving Turkey for 
 his post as ambassador to the Court of Vienna; and 
 having myself had the honour of knowing this distin- 
 guished diplomatist when he was ambassador to the 
 Court of St. James's, he at once recognised me, and the 
 conversation being opened by Mr. Pizanni, we had a 
 most interesting dialogue on semi- diplomatic matters, 
 embracing a period of fifteen years. 
 
 k k 2 
 
500 
 
 PRESENTED TO THE SULTAN. 
 
 Two hours had now elapsed. Chibouques and coffee had 
 been handed round many times, when the Prince remarked 
 that his Majesty was later than usual. Shortly after, an 
 officer of the palace entered, and desired Mr. Pizanni 
 and myself to accompany him to the Sultan’s private 
 palace, a distance of several hundred yards. Crossing 
 a floral carpet of sweet perfume, interwoven with plots 
 of choice exotic plants and flowers, marble fountains, 
 vases, baths, &c., we ascended a staircase, and were 
 introduced to a simply, but costly-furnished apartment, 
 when Mr. Pizanni remarked that we had already made a 
 near approach to the person of his Majesty. Hardly had he 
 uttered the remark, when a eunuch entered, and requested 
 us to follow him. We passed through several long dark 
 corridors, richly tapestried, and here and there inter- 
 posed with coloured glass, which threw a golden -yellow 
 light, reflecting a peculiar hue on the eunuchs who were 
 here and there stationed, keeping guard. Silence reigned 
 supreme. We soon reached a very spacious area. A 
 screen was suddenly removed, when, standing on the 
 summit of a grand crystal staircase, most brilliantly 
 illuminated with resplendent vermilion glass shades, 
 stood erect a figure, which, at first sight, I took for an 
 idol or statue belonging to this enchanting place. Mr. 
 Pizanni advanced, with great veneration, towards it, 
 bidding me follow, over a highly-polished glassy-looking 
 floor, which I did not without fear of slipping — when, 
 to my astonishment, I found myself standing before 
 Abdul Medjid Khan, the Padischah, who, though simply 
 attired in a rich robe de chambre and a plain fez, — 
 which I believe is the oriental dress of reception, — the 
 sublimity of the monarch’s countenance will never be 
 effaced from my memory. Mr. Pizanni, addressing his 
 Majesty in the Turkish language, introduced me, when, 
 through that gentleman, I ascertained that his Majesty 
 wished me well, and that his heart was well disposed 
 towards me (meaning a great deal in a few words). 
 His Majesty was then informed of the purport of my 
 mission, commencing at the hospitals of the Bosphorus, 
 then in the Crimea. His approbation was expressed by 
 
END OF THE MAHOMETAN EEVIEW. 
 
 501 
 
 the slow movement of the head from left to right, the 
 body remaining motionless. Then took place the offering 
 of my various productions, culinary and literary, eight 
 in number, which lay on a large, richly-ornamented piece 
 of furniture, in the centre of this large cupola. The 
 simplicity of the field-stove obtained his Majesty’s high 
 approbation. “ I well understand them,” said he, talking 
 all the time to Mr. Pizanni, who translated word for 
 word to me. After having complimented me very highly 
 on the services of my undertaking, “ I am much pleased,” 
 were the last words his Majesty uttered. We then 
 retreated backwards. Though the conversation had been 
 varied and animated, not a movement on the part of 
 his Majesty did I perceive all the twenty minutes we 
 were conversing. We left the idol as we found it.* 
 
 The time fixed for my stay in the far-famed city of 
 Constantinople was fast drawing to a close ; a short 
 visit to the Isles des Princes, that focus of nightly revels, 
 was to put a final seal to my Mahometan review. I 
 went there on a Sunday, and had the pleasure of meeting, 
 amongst thousands, with Admiral Lyons and his maritime 
 staff. Here monks, caidjees, donkeys, green fruit, cakes, 
 fireworks, and gambling-tables thrive in a most flourish- 
 ing manner. As the night approached, the Admiral left 
 to join his ship, escorted down the silvery Bosphorus by 
 hundreds of lighted torches, and shouts from thousands 
 of visitors. The next day I was on board the Albert , 
 anchored before Bujukderd, and bade adieu to the gallant 
 admiral. I then paid my farewell respects to his Excel- 
 lency Lord de Redcliffe and his family; the day was now 
 fixed for my departure, everything was packed up, and my 
 Russian boy, Daniel Maximovitch Chimachenka, had, with 
 the greatest intelligence and delight, corded my last box, 
 and seemed as if he was already breathing the air of freedom. 
 For some time previous, a monster gipsy party had been in 
 embryo ; illness had prevented this rural festivity coming 
 
 * For a description of the interior of the Palace, see Addenda. 
 
502 
 
 MONSTER PIC-NJC. 
 
 off, but on my return to Pera, it was luckily fixed for the 
 following day — the illustrious Mr. Messirie being the 
 giver of this monster pic-nic. At five the next morning 
 every one was attired in their best summer array, and 
 streams of people were pouring from all directions to the 
 GalataPier. A steamer, gaily trimmed, was waiting for the 
 guests. When all were on board, the paddles commenced 
 their revolutions; and, as we floated along the limpid bay 
 of the Golden Horn, Greek music kept time with our race. 
 Soon we arrived at Therapia, and landed on the pier of 
 the Hotel d’Angleterre, where light refreshments were 
 provided for the innumerable guests. About forty caiques 
 with double caidjees were waiting near the shore, while 
 two caiques of large dimensions were filled with instru- 
 mental musicians. We then all started, crossing the Bos- 
 phorus towards Ibraham Pasha’s marble palace, and to 
 the melodious sound of the music, we landed in one of 
 the many pretty valleys of which the Bosphorus alone can 
 boast; it was called the Sultana, near the Sultan’s valley. 
 Such a culinary encampment I never before beheld ; four 
 men-cooks were busily engaged in dishing up sixteen hot 
 entrees , fowls were being grilled, quails and dotrelles were 
 being roasted, kaboub frizzling, and all kinds of fish were 
 submitted to the science of cookery ; four sheep and two 
 lambs were roasted whole in the adjacent forest, while 
 a table for about a hundred and fifty people was laid 
 out under the shadowy folds of a huge tree, luxuriously 
 situated at the base of a delightful Turkish fountain; 
 sherbet, ices, jam, and cakes were also freely partaken 
 of. At twelve, to the minute, the open-air banquet 
 was placed upon the table, and soon the warning note 
 of the tum-tum assembled all around it. Oriental fruit 
 and flowers profusely ornamented the festive board, while 
 Smyrna melons of large dimensions perfumed the air. 
 The banquet lasted two hours, after which dancing and 
 oriental games were in full swing in all directions, in- 
 cluding the Greek, Armenian, and Albany dances, accom- 
 panied by the twang of music, to the great delight of 
 the participators, as well as the admiration of several 
 hundred Turkish spectators, both men and women. 
 
SMYRNA* 
 
 503 
 
 dressed in their best, this being their Sabbath. It gave 
 this scene a purely oriental aspect, which cannot be 
 beheld anywhere but under the heavenly paradise of 
 Mahomet. As the evening approached, more animated 
 became the party, and no finale could have wound 
 up the day’s fun better than the dance of all creeds, each 
 dancer holding a lighted torch, which flickered about the 
 forest like so many will-o’-the-wisps. Turkish fireworks 
 terminated this day of romance, which ended to the sorrow 
 of all. Iron pots elevated on poles, along the shore, 
 filled with wood and vitriol, were then fired, throwing a 
 blaze of light on the caidjees, who were gaily fluttering 
 round the shore on the agitated ripples of the Bosphorus ; 
 each caique, headed by its pot of fire — blue, green, or 
 yellow — bands of music, hurrahs of twelve times three to 
 Mr. Messirie, the donor of this magnificent fete, and at 
 midnight, landing at Therapia terminated this ever to 
 be remembered day. 
 
 My last day was devoted to my grand review of the 
 Asiatic shore, Barrack Hospital, &c., and I devoted the 
 morning hour to my final call on numerous oriental 
 friends from whom I had received so much kindness and 
 friendship during my long sojourn in the East. 
 
 Arriving early the next morning at Smyrna, where 
 forests of fig-trees abound, caravans of camels and noted 
 brigands thrive — while at the Hotel des deux Augustes, 
 I wrote my Scutari journal, of which the following is 
 a copy, being the continuation of that which appears at 
 page 496 : 
 
 Hotel des deux Augustes, Smyrna, 
 September 14 th, 1856. 
 
 Having devoted my last day in Constantinople to visit the 
 Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, I and a few friends went accord- 
 ingly to Scutari. Our first visit was to the Selinie Quicklaci, 
 so well known by the English as the Barrack Hospital, in anticipa- 
 tion of gathering the latest details relating to that once so celebrated 
 spot. \Ve found it occupied by four thousand Turkish soldiers of 
 the Imperial Guard, lately arrived from Erzeroum. Ten or twelve 
 thousand is the number it will hold ; but at a pinch, as we were 
 informed by one of the officers, “ and no one acquainted with the 
 place can doubt it,” fifteen thousand may he quartered in this 
 
504 
 
 CHANGE OF SCENE. 
 
 monster barracks, which, in consequence of the events of the last 
 three years, will be long remembered in the history of England. 
 
 After some formalities, we obtained permission from the governor, 
 Selim Pacha, to enter the precincts of the late British Hospital ; and 
 the scene, I need not say, was entirely changed, everything having 
 put on an Oriental aspect, and nothing remains as evidence of its 
 late occupation by the British army but a few shelves and numbers 
 of the beds in the various wards and corridors ; and on the staircase, 
 the partitions of the dispensaries and extra-diet kitchens, which in 
 a few weeks longer will have passed into oblivion. The various 
 offices which were from morning to night crowded, as well as 
 the residence of General Storks, are now occupied by the command- 
 ing officers of the Turkish army, by whom business seems to be 
 transacted quietly by signs, salutations, and kissing of hands, such 
 being the Turkish fashion, scarcely a word being spoken by these 
 living automatons. We were very politely shown through the 
 building, accompanied by several officers. The large kitchen in the 
 yard, which I had the fitting of, still remains, the partition which 
 formerly divided it to form an extra-diet kitchen only being removed, 
 making it now one vast cook-house. The twenty-four large boilers, 
 set in marble, were in use for making the daily meal for the troops, 
 which that day was the meat Pilaff*, a dish suitable for the million of 
 any nation, it being composed principally of rice, and the addition 
 of a little spice or curry-powder will make it highly palatable to the 
 English soldier. The kitchen-floor, after the Turkish fashion, was 
 anything but cleanly ; but in their cooking apparatus the contrary . 
 exists, the copper boilers being well tinned and very clean. The 
 meat-house, store-rooms, &c., present but a meagre appearance 
 contrasted with that, when filled with meat and provisions of all 
 kinds, during their occupation by the English. Returning thence, 
 we were attracted to the building by a band of music rehears- 
 ing in the Malakoff* ward, the brassy sounds of which in former 
 days would have proved anything but harmonious to the ears of the 
 patients : several airs arranged by the late Donizetti, the Sultan’s 
 band-master, and brolher of the celebrated maestro, were performed 
 for us with great precision, especially “ God save the Queen” and 
 the “ Sultan’s March,” though still with the Oriental twang, which 
 at first is anything but agreeable or pleasing to a European ear. 
 We then walked round the barracks, through those I recollect once 
 encumbered, but now empty corridors, the immensity of which is 
 almost indescribable : the centre of the pavement alone, which in 
 some parts is nearly worn out by the daily traffic between the rows 
 of beds placed on either side, brought to my mind those days of 
 sorrow and anguish in which so many brave men had nobly expired 
 in the service of their countiy. Before leaving, I was very anxious 
 to visit another department, viz., the one so lately occupied by Miss 
 Nightingale, when, to my astonishment, our cicerone , without being 
 asked, conducted us to it. But what an extraordinary change was 
 there ! — no longer were hangings of black cloth curtains before the 
 
VA11I0US HOSPITALS. 
 
 505 
 
 doors ; neither was seen within the pleasing appearance of the well 
 though simply furnished apartment, erst filled on all sides with 
 religious books, &c., relics of departed soldiers bequeathed to their 
 friends and relations, and numerous samples of diet comforts, 
 many of which I had experimented upon before that benevolent 
 lady in her sanctorum. The walls were also devoid of a fine portrait 
 of her Majesty, and numerous scripture drawings ; added to that, the 
 loss of the gentle voice of that excellent lady mingled with that ot 
 her devoted satellites. No article of furniture is now to be seen 
 there, with the exception of a common Turkish divan, “ which is far 
 from breaking the monotony of the bare whitewashed walls,” round 
 which were seated a dozen of dark-coloured warlike-looking officers, 
 who very politely rose when we entered. Hardly had we seated 
 ourselves, at their request, than an army of Chiboukchi Bachis 
 entered and presented us with long chibouques ; which while we were 
 smoking, the same formidable army re-appeared, each bearing a cup 
 of coffee and sherbet, which we partook of ; and a few minutes after, 
 we retired, through thick clouds of smoke, the smell of coffee, and no 
 end of salutations from our illustrious hosts, among whom were 
 Osman Pacha, whose politeness will for ever be engraved upon my 
 memory. My mind was so struck with the sudden changement a 
 vue at the time, that I could almost have attributed it to an effect of 
 the magic wand of Harlequin. 
 
 Thanking them for their kind entertainment, we retired, they 
 politely conducting us to the grand entrance. We then took a stroll 
 through the town, which we found comparatively deserted: the 
 names of the streets remain, as well as the designations of Clarendon 
 House, Russell House, Chaplain House, Victoria House, &c. We 
 next visited H} 7 der Pacha, called the General Hospital, where there 
 were about three hundred and forty sick, and amongst them were 
 about ten sick Polish soldiers : there were no cases of cholera, and 
 but few of fever, dysentery, &c. Nothing there seemed changed, 
 except the introduction of Turkish utensils in lieu of English ones. 
 The numbers of the beds were engraved upon copper crescents, and 
 each man had a round tinned copper tray, tankard, and spitting- 
 vase; and here and there were copper water-jugs of an elegant form, 
 and basins of elaborate workmanship for the doctors to wash their 
 hands. Cleanliness seemed to be closely attended to. The kitchen there 
 remains exactly as I had planned it ; and the extra diets, though 
 very limited, were prepared on charcoal stoves. 
 
 We then went to the Cemetery, which we found in very good order, 
 with the exception of two tombstones not yet fixed ; one in memory of 
 Capt. W. R. N. Campbell, of the 5th Dragoon Guards, who died at 
 Scutari, the 23rd of December, 1854 ; and the other to the memory of 
 Lieut. J. M. Holford, 25th Regiment, who died November 29th, 1854. 
 And though there was a Turkish guard or labourer in the Cemetery, 
 he could not inform our dragoman when or where they were to be 
 placed ; and as there are no English remaining in Scutari, it would 
 be prudent of the friends of the deceased to inquire as to their 
 
506 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 placement, for if left to the Turkish authorities a mistake might 
 occur, and we could find no indication of the spot where the remains 
 were interred. The grave of Major Sorrell, with whom I had the 
 pleasure of being acquainted, and whose death (by fever) was so 
 lamented, he being only ill one day, is marked by a plain piece 
 of board bearing his name. There is also the grave of the Russian 
 General ChekachofF, who was wounded at the Alma and taken 
 prisoner : he died a few days after his arrival at Scutari, in his last 
 moments expressing his gratitude for the kindness he had received 
 from the medical officers who attended him. This fact was related 
 to me by Signor Marco Yido of the British Embassy, who was 
 present at his decease. His grave bears no more permanent 
 memento. 
 
 The spot selected for the Scutari Monument about to be erected, 
 though not in the centre of the Cemetery, will be a lasting national 
 testimonial to the memory of the brave, as it will form a landmark 
 which cannot fail to be seen from the Sea of Marmora, Pera, Stam- 
 boul, the Isles des Princes, Kadikoi, &c. &c. The tombstones, 
 though not numerous, are well executed and in good preservation : 
 amongst them may be mentioned those of the Honourable Grey 
 Neville, 5th Dragoon Guards, and Henry Neville, Grenadier Guards, 
 sons of Lord Braybrooke, surviving each other only six days — both 
 wounded at Inkermann. There is also a memento to William 
 Prederic Viscount Chewton, son of the Earl of Waldegrave, killed 
 at Alma, September 20th, 1854. 
 
 The wooden cavalry barracks present a most desolate heap of ruins 
 and destruction, and are about to be removed. 
 
 We were now obliged to return through the grand Champ des 
 Morts, the vast and mournful spot where millions of souls have 
 rested for centuries in the dark shade of the cypress forest ; and I 
 can assure you, Mr. Editor, that the day was anything but one of 
 gaiety, but, on the contrar}", very solemn though interesting. 
 
 With the highest consideration, I have the honour to remain, &c. 
 
 Our next stay was at Malta, where I received a most 
 gratifying reception from the governor, military and 
 civil authorities, as well as from the gentlemen of the 
 press. A stay of ten days in that city of ancient 
 chivalry will in my memory form an historical page of 
 most agreeable reminiscences, and could I have accepted 
 all the dinners offered me by the officers of various 
 regiments, whom I had met in the Crimea, three months 
 would hardly have sufficed in fulfilling the invitations. 
 To Colonel Haley of the 47th, I cannot but feel grateful 
 for the magnificent banquet he gave on the occasion. 
 
INTERVIEW WITH NAPOLEON III. 
 
 507 
 
 when about fifty of the heads of the army there stationed 
 sat around the festive board, and at which our epicurean 
 soldier distinguished himself by concocting a most excel- 
 lent potage aux crevettes, and two dressed fish, peculiar 
 to Malta.* 
 
 Our next stay was at Marseilles, and being accom- 
 panied by Mr. Robertson, the celebrated photographist 
 of Constantinople, we once more degustated the cele- 
 brated bouillabaisse. We afterwards took a stroll through 
 the part of France so lately inundated, where we met 
 the celebrated Horace Vernet; after a few hours at 
 Lyons, we reached Paris the same evening, which to our 
 astonished eyes displayed quite a new aspect, with her 
 Rivoli rods of fire, magnificent palaces, and stupendous 
 streets. Above two years had elapsed since my last visit, 
 and had created, under the guidance of the imperial 
 wand of Napoleon III., these wonders. After gazing 
 with amazement over that far-famed city, I retired to my 
 native place, Meaux en Brie, the birthplace of Bossuet, 
 which I had not visited for upwards of twenty-six 
 years, having only a local interest in the place, I being 
 the last of my family left. During the progress of this 
 work, when returning to Paris, I had, after an applica- 
 tion, the honour of an interview with his Imperial 
 Majesty the Emperor, who took a most vivid interest 
 in the descriptive narrative I gave him of my Eastern 
 mission, and entered into the most minute details on 
 hospital and camp cookery, &e. Our interview took 
 place at the Chateau des Tuileries, and lasted about 
 half an hour ; and after submitting and explaining to 
 his Imperial Majesty a model of my field-stove, he 
 desired to have an ordinary one forwarded from London, 
 to serve as a model for his army. His Majesty also 
 took a vivid interest in the perusal of my simple hos- 
 pital dietary and army receipts. The affability of his 
 Majesty towards me in alluding to his high appreciation 
 
 * The Maltese culinary productions, and well-provided markets, 
 I must defer commenting upon till my work entitled “ The Culinary 
 Wonders of all Nations” is produced. 
 
508 
 
 CULINARY TOUR. 
 
 of my services in the East., more than repays me for my 
 very humble duties.* 
 
 In accordance with my aforementioned promise, 
 having already gathered so much matter for this narra- 
 tive work, I find myself compelled to reserve what I have 
 so carefully collected for another work, already men- 
 tioned in a note at the foot of preceding page, in which 
 I shall insert only the dishes most renowned in each 
 country, and thus render them practical everywhere. 
 I have, during my six months’ travels since leaving the 
 Crimea, personally visited and become acquainted with 
 the cookery of Russia, Turkey, Germany, Greece, Malta, 
 Italy, and France, also that of its great provincial towns 
 — of the latter till now unknown to me. They all enjoy 
 a high reputation for peculiar dishes so much esteemed 
 by the real gourmet. With Strasbourg, my culinary 
 peregrinations closed. I addressed to the local paper of 
 that antique and interesting city the following letter 
 respecting the production of its delicious foies gras and 
 erroneous Inquisitional Romance : — 
 
 Article published in the “ Courier du Bas Rhin.” 
 
 It has been said and generally credited in England and in France, 
 that the enormous development of the fat livers is obtained by a 
 system of torture inflicted by the Strasburghers upon the unfortunate 
 goose, the protecting bird of the Capitol. A certain English publi- 
 cation states, “ they are confined in dark cellars, nailed to the floor by 
 the feet before a slow fire which is kept constantly burning, and 
 they are then crammed to repletion, so much so that the first 
 cramming keeps the digestive organs in action for weeks. This 
 system of torture, worthy of the mysteries of the Spanish Inquisi- 
 tion, dries up the frame of the poor bird to a skeleton, and thus the 
 liver acquires its enormous development under the combined influence 
 of cramming, want of exercise, and the constant slow heat.” 
 
 “ I am happy,” says Monsieur Soyer, “ to show there is no truth 
 in this statement, and, from personal observation while at Strasbourg, 
 to be able to contradict those absurd fables so long credited in 
 
 * A few days after, I was deputed, by order of the Emperor, to 
 visit and report on the public kitchen for the working classes in 
 Paris, called the Fourneaux de lTmp6ratrice ; for description of 
 which see Addenda. 
 
CASE OP THE STRASBOURG GEESE. 
 
 509 
 
 England. I can certify that the geese intended for fattening are 
 allowed to roam about the farms and grass-fields in Alsace till they 
 are seven or eight months old, kept in flocks, and well watched and 
 tended. 
 
 “ Having reached their requisite degree of maturity, they are 
 brought to the city market by the country farmers and sold to 
 persons who make the fattening a special business. They are now 
 crammed three times a day with dry and ripe Indian meal, kept in 
 clean wooden cages, and allowed to drink as much water as they 
 like ; others, in greater numbers, roam about in large barns, very ‘ 
 light and well ventilated: these are also kept extremely clean. 
 Each bird consumes about a bushel of Indian meal before attaining 
 the requisite fatness, and but few die from disease during the process. 
 I have been assured that the quality of the water in Strasbourg 
 contributes greatly to the development of the livers, but cannot 
 vouch for the authenticity of this statement.” 
 
 Here is the whole of the mystery of the cruel process so long 
 commented upon in England; and, far from being Torquemadas, 
 the parties who follow this business, on the contrary, treat the 
 victims destined for the celebrated pates de foies with great care 
 and humanity. Every Englishman may henceforth eat his pate 
 with a clear conscience, as does the French gourmet , without con- 
 travening the law of Grammont. 
 
 The livers are usually sold at five, six, ten, and even twelve and 
 fifteen francs each, according to the size and quality. 
 
 There is no special market for them, but the fatteners carry them 
 round for sale to the pastry-cooks and private establishments. 
 
 Independently of the liver, the dealer reaps a further profit upon 
 the goose (which is in general very plump and fat), besides the down 
 and the goose-grease. 
 
 I purpose adding to this recherche and universal bill of 
 fare, a few receipts from Spain, Portugal, America, India, 
 and China ; closing this small but well-filled volume with 
 the roast-beef and plum-pudding of Old England, which 
 they are at present totally incapable of cooking properly 
 in Paris, but which I intend compelling them to do, 
 inasmuch as they now have in that city of gourmets and 
 cradle of gastronomy nearly as good meat as any to be 
 found in the English metropolis. 
 
 The work will be published at a moderate price, and 
 printed in different languages, and will, I hope, prove 
 acceptable to the public, as well as beneficial, in a culinary 
 point of view, to all nations. 
 
510 
 
 RETURN TO ENGLAND. 
 
 A few weeks after my visit to his Majesty the Em- 
 peror Napoleon III., and having delivered my report 
 upon the kitchens for the working classes, to my joy 
 the time had arrived to sail for England’s happy land, 
 which two years previous I had so unexpectedly left. 
 Double pleasure was attached to my return, for I felt 
 assured that within its sea-girt shore thousands of 
 true British hearts were wishing me well, to use his 
 Majesty the Sultan’s term. And indeed I was not 
 disappointed, for in less than forty-eight hours after my 
 arrival in its mighty metropolis, I had been so fervently 
 shaken by the hand, that I could not but help ex- 
 claiming for a short time, “ Save me from my friends.” 
 Added to this, my kind reception by the home autho- 
 rities was to me more than gratifying : then the last, 
 though not least, reminiscence of my late campaign 
 which occurred in Hyde Park, on the occasion of the dis- 
 tribution of the Order of Valour by her Most Gracious 
 Majesty, when, being recognised amongst the thousands 
 assembled in the stand by the valiant general. Sir Colin 
 Campbell, the elevation of my hat was not sufficient for 
 the impetuosity of the major-domo of this grand and 
 imposing ceremony — the last link of the late memorable 
 Crimean Campaign. On my going towards Sir Colin 
 I was greeted with a hearty shake of the hand, and the 
 usual kind and affable inquiries so peculiar to the amiable 
 General having passed between us, I could not help 
 expressing to the gallant warrior how highly gratified I 
 had been by the admirable and perfect manoeuvring of the 
 troops. Shortly after he bade me adieu, and, accompanied 
 by his staff, left the ground. At this time I much regretted 
 not having had the opportunity of paying my duty to one 
 of the generals in command, as it would have closed, in a 
 most apropos manner, the last page of this work, my 
 “ Culinary Campaign but, thanks to my star, an hour 
 after the termination of the proceedings, while walking 
 along Piccadilly towards my residence, a friend’s voice 
 behind me exclaimed — u Halloo, Monsieur Soyer !” On 
 turning round, who, to my astonishment, should I 
 perceive, mounted on his Balaklava charger, and followed 
 
THE LAST SCENE. 
 
 511 
 
 by his aide-de-camp, but the very gallant general whose 
 absence I had just been regretting. It was no other 
 than Lord William Paulet, who was turning the corner 
 to enter his chambers in the Albany. “ I have/’ ex- 
 claimed his lordship, “ been looking out everywhere for 
 you, having learned from Sir Colin Campbell that you 
 were upon the ground.” 
 
 “ So have I been looking for you, my lord, and with 
 great anxiety, but unfortunately I was deprived of the 
 pleasure of meeting you.” 
 
 “ By-the-bye, Soyer, I saw your portrait in the his- 
 torical Scutari painting, by Barrett, this morning at 
 Buckingham Palace, and I consider it an excellent 
 likeness.” 
 
 “ I am glad you think so, my lord, and for my part I 
 consider the whole of the picture remarkably well 
 executed. At the same time allow me to inform your 
 lordship, that as you are so near home, I should have 
 been very sorry to have had the pleasure of meeting you 
 in the Park.” 
 
 “Why so, Soyer?” remarked his lordship, leaning 
 over his charger, and still retaining my hand in his. 
 
 “Well, my lord, the reason is simple. Having so 
 prosperously commenced my culinary campaign under your 
 command and very kind assistance, while your lordship was 
 Brigadier-general of Scutari, nothing could be more in 
 accordance with my wishes than that the last page of a 
 work which I am now about completing, in anticipation 
 of perpetuating the style of cookery introduced by me 
 both at Scutari and in the camp before Sebastopol, should 
 terminate at the very threshold of your door, and while 
 you were returning from the last national ceremony relat- 
 ing to the great Crimean campaign.” 
 
 “Well, upon my word, it is very remarkable; and I 
 am happy to think, Soyer, that you have written a work 
 upon so important and interesting a subject.” 
 
 We then parted. A few minutes had thrown a cur- 
 tain over this grand military display, which will ever be 
 remembered in history, as well as graven on the memory 
 of man. 
 
512 
 
 SOYEE TEES HETJEETJX. 
 
 The Author, after his laborious campaign, in bidding 
 adieu to his readers, does not intend to remain Soyer 
 tranquitte , as he is most anxious, after having chronicled 
 his culinary reminiscences of the late war, to put his 
 views into action by simple practice ; and as he had no 
 other object in writing this book, he sincerely hopes it 
 may be the means of causing a lasting amelioration ill 
 the cooking for both army and navy, and all public 
 institutions. Such a result to his labours, after his long 
 culinary experience, would make the author happy indeed, 
 and he would for the future be found as traced below. 
 
 SoYEE TEES HETJEETJX . 
 
ADDENDA 
 
 INTRODUCTION. — THIS PART OF THE WORK, THOUGH THE 
 LAST, I CONSIDER NOT THE LEAST, BEING THE MOST USEFUL. 
 IT NEEDS NO PREFACE. ITS CONTENTS ARE AS FOLLOWS: 
 FIRST, THE NEW HOSPITAL DIETS; SECONDLY, THE COOKING 
 FOR THE ARMY AND NAVY ; THIRDLY, THE LONDON SUPPER ; 
 FOURTHLY, THE CHEAP RECEIPTS, WHEREBY THE WEALTHY 
 CAN, AT A TRIFLING EXPENSE, AID IN WINTER THE WORKING 
 CLASSES AND THE NEEDY. 
 
 SOYEB/S HOSPITAL DIETS, 
 
 AS INTRODUCED BY HIM WITH THE CONCURRENCE OF THE 
 LEADING MEDICAL GENTLEMEN OF THE BRITISH MILITARY 
 HOSPITALS IN THE EAST. 
 
 REMARK:. — THE IMPORTANCE ATTACHING TO WEIGHTS AND 
 MEASURES IN THE ACCOMPANYING RECEIPTS IS FULLY RECO- 
 GNISED; IT IS THEREFORE NECESSARY THAT REGIMENTAL AS 
 WELL AS CIVIL HOSPITALS SHOULD BE SUPPLIED WITH SCALES, 
 AND WITH MEASURES FOR LIQUIDS. 
 
 Correct Bill of Fare for Hospital Diet for the Army in the Fast , 
 as first introduced hy Monsieur Soyer in the G-reat Barrack 
 Hospital , Scutari, and subsequently in others , while on his 
 Government Mission during the late War , for the Sick, 
 Wounded, and Convalescent, and applicable to all Hospitals 
 throughout the United Kingdom of Great Britain . 
 
 No. 1. — Semi-Stewed Mutton and Barley. Soup for 
 
 100 Men/* 
 
 Put in a convenient-sized caldron 130 pints of cold water, 701bs. 
 of meat, or about that quantity, 121bs. of plain mixed vegetables 
 
 # This receipt, so much approved of by the medical authorities, 
 was in daily use for more than fifteen months from the date of its 
 introduction by me. 
 
 L L 
 
514 
 
 soyek/s hospital diets. 
 
 (the best that can be obtained), 9lbs. 6oz. of barley, lib. 7oz. of 
 salt, 11b. 4oz. of flour, lib. 4oz. of sugar, loz. of pepper. Put all 
 the ingredients into the pan at once, except the flour ; set it on the 
 fire, and when beginning to boil, diminish the heat, and simmer 
 gently for two hours and a half; take the joints of meat out, and 
 keep them warm in the orderly’s pan; add to the soup your 
 flour, which you have mixed with enough water to form a light 
 batter ; stir well together with a large spoon ; boil another half- 
 hour, skim off the fat, and serve the soup and meat separate. 
 The meat may be put back into the soup for a few minutes 
 to warm again prior to serving. The soup should be stirred now 
 and then while making, to prevent burning or sticking to the 
 bottom of the caldron. 
 
 The joints are cooked whole, and afterwards cut up in different 
 messes ; being cooked this way, in a rather thick stock, the meat 
 becomes more nutritous. 
 
 Note . — The word “ about” is applied to the half and full diet, which 
 varies the weight of the meat ; but Jib. of mutton will always make 
 a pint of good soup : 31bs. of mixed preserved vegetables must be 
 used when fresh are not to be obtained, and put in one hour and a 
 half prior to serving, instead of at first ; they will then show better 
 in the soup, and still be well done. 
 
 All the following receipts may be increased to large quantities, 
 but by all means closely follow the weight and measure. 
 
 No. 2 . — Beef Soup. 
 
 Proceed the same as for mutton, only leave the meat in till 
 serving, as it will take longer than mutton. The pieces are not to 
 be above 4 or 51bs. weight; and for a change, half rice may be intro- 
 duced ; the addition of 21bs. more will make it thicker and more 
 nutritive ; Jib. of curry powder will make an excellent change also. 
 To vary the same, half a pint of burnt sugar water may be added — 
 it will give the soup a very rich brown colour. (Vide Receipt 
 No. 32.) 
 
 No. 3. — Beef Tea. Receipt foe six Pints. 
 
 Cut 31bs. of beef into pieces the size of walnuts, and chop up the 
 bones, if any ; put it into a convenient- sized kettle, with Jib. of 
 mixed vegetables, such as onions, leeks, celery, turnips, carrots (or 
 one or two of these, if all are not to be obtained), loz. of salt, a 
 little pepper, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, 2oz. of butter, half a pint of 
 water. Set it on a sharp fire for ten minutes or a quarter of an 
 hour, stirring now and then with a spoon, till it forms a rather 
 thick gravy at bottom, but not brown : then add 7 pints of hot or 
 cold water, but hot is preferable ; when boiling, let it simmer gently 
 for an hour ; skim off all the fat, strain it through a sieve, and 
 serve. 
 
SOYER'S HOSPITAL DIETS. 
 
 515 
 
 No. 3a.— Essence of Beef Tea. 
 
 For camp hospitals. — “ Quarter pound tin case of essence.” 
 
 If in winter set it near the fire to melt; pour the contents in a stew- 
 pan and twelve times the case full of water over it, hot or cold ; add to 
 it two or three slices of onion, a sprig or two of parsley, a leaf or 
 two of celery, if handy, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of sugar ; pass 
 through a colander and serve. If required stronger, eight cases of 
 water will suffice, decreasing the seasoning in proportion. In case 
 you have no vegetables, sugar, or pepper, salt alone will do, but the 
 broth will not be so succulent. 
 
 No. 4. — Thick Beef Tea. 
 
 Dissolve a good teaspoonful of arrowroot in a gill of water, and 
 pour it into the beef tea twenty minutes before passing through the 
 sieve — it is then ready. 
 
 No. 5. — Strengthening Beef Tea, with Calves-foot 
 Jelly or Isinglass. 
 
 Add foz. calves-foot gelatine to the above quantity of beef tea 
 previous to serving, when cooking. 
 
 No. 6. — Mutton and Yeal Tea. 
 
 Mutton and veal will make good tea by proceeding precisely the 
 same as above. The addition of a little aromatic herbs is always 
 desirable. If no fresh vegetables are at hand, use 2oz. of mixed 
 preserved vegetables to any of the above receipts. 
 
 No. 7. — Chicken Broth. 
 
 Put in a stewpan a fowl, 3 pints of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of rice, 
 1 teaspoonful of salt, a middle-sized onion, or 2oz. of mixed vege- 
 tables ; boil the whole gently for three quarters of an hour : if an 
 old fowl, simmer from one hour and a half to two hours, adding 1 
 pint more water ; skim off the fat, and serve. A small fowl will do. 
 
 Note. — A light mutton broth may be made precisely the same, by 
 using a pound and a half of scrag of mutton instead of fowl. 
 
 For thick mutton broth proceed as for thick beef tea, omitting 
 the rice; a tablespoonful of burnt sugar water will give a rich 
 colour to the broth. 
 
 No. 8. — Plain boiled Bice. 
 
 Put 2 quarts of water in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salt ; 
 when boiling, add to it ^lb. of rice, well washed; boil for ten 
 minutes, or till each grain becomes rather soft; drain it into a 
 colander, slightly grease the pot with butter, and put the rice back 
 into it ; let it swell slowly for about twenty minutes near the fire, or 
 in a slow oven ; each grain will then swell up, and be well separated; 
 it is then ready for use. 
 
 L L 2 
 
516 
 
 soyeiFs hospital diets. 
 
 No. 9. — Sweet Eice. 
 
 Add to the plain boiled rice 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
 sugar, a little cinnamon, a quarter of a pint of milk ; stir it with a 
 fork, and serve ; a little currant jelly or jam may be added to the rice. 
 
 No. 10. — Eice with Gravy. 
 
 Add to the rice 4 tablespoonfuls of the essence of beef, a little 
 butter, if fresh, half a teaspoonful of salt ; stir together with a fork, 
 and serve. 
 
 A teaspoonful of Soyer’s Sultana Sauce, or relish, will make it 
 very wholesome and palatable, as well as invigorating to a fatigued 
 stomach.^ 
 
 No. 11. — Plain Oatmeal. 
 
 Put in a pan Jib. of oatmeal, ljoz. of sugar, half a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and 3 pints of water ; boil slowly for twenty minutes, “ stirring 
 continually,” and serve. A quarter of a pint of boiled milk, an ounce 
 of butter, and a little pounded cinnamon or spice added previous to 
 serving is a good variation. 
 
 This receipt has been found most useful at the commencement of 
 dysentery by the medical authorities. 
 
 No. 12. — Calves-eoot Jelly. 
 
 Put in a proper sized stewpan 2Joz. of calves-foot gelatine, 
 4oz. of white sugar, 4 whites of eggs and shells, the peel of a lemon, 
 the juice of three middle-sized lemons, half a pint of Marsala wine; 
 beat all well together with the egg-beater for a few minutes, then 
 add 4-J pints of cold water ; set it on a slow fire, and keep whipping 
 it till boiling. Set it on the corner of the stove, partly covered with 
 the lid, upon which you place a few pieces of burning charcoal ; let 
 it simmer gently for ten minutes, and strain it through a jelly -bag. 
 It is then ready to put in the ice or some cool place. Sherry 
 will do if Marsala is not at hand. 
 
 For orange jelly use only 1 lemon and 2 oranges. Any delicate- 
 flavour may be introduced. 
 
 Note . — I find that the preparation now manufactured by Messrs. 
 Crosse and Blackwell, of Soho-square, London, is preferable to any 
 other, being also cheaper than boiling calves’ feet on purpose, which 
 takes a very long time, and is more difficult to make. This pre- 
 paration will keep as long as isinglass, to prove which I am induced 
 at the same time to give the following receipt, when the other cannot 
 be procured. Ox-feet or cow-heel may be used instead of calves-feet* 
 
 * The following is from the Lancet of August the 22nd, 1857 : — • 
 “ Dyspeptic . — We recommend our correspondent to try some of M. 
 Soyer’s new sauce, called the Sultana Sauce. It is made after the 
 Turkish receipt, its flavour is excellent, and it affords considerable 
 aid in cases of slow and weak digestion.” 
 
soyee’s hospital diets. 
 
 517 
 
 only requiring an hour more simmering. In summer ice must be 
 used to set the jelly. 
 
 Jelly Stock, 
 
 Made from calf’s feet, requires to be made the day previous to being 
 used, requiring to be very hard to extract the fat. Take two calf’s 
 feet, cut them up, and boil in three quarts of water ; as soon as it 
 boils remove it to the corner of the lire, and simmer for five hours, 
 keeping it skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, and let 
 it remain until quite hard, then remove the oil and fat, and wipe the 
 top dry. Place in a stew-pan half a pint of water, one of sherry, half 
 a pound of lump sugar, the juice of four lemons, the rinds of two, 
 and the whites and shells of five eggs ; whisk until the sugar is 
 melted, then add the jelly, place it on the fire, and whisk until 
 boiling, pass it through a jelly-bag, pouring that back again which 
 comes through first until quite clear ; it is then ready for use, by 
 putting it in moulds or glasses. Yary the flavour according to fancy. 
 
 No. 13. — Sago Jelly. 
 
 Put into a pan 3oz. of sago, ljoz. of sugar, half a lemon-peel 
 cut very then, \ teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, or a small stick of 
 the same; put to it 3 pints of water and a little salt; boil ten 
 minutes, or rather longer, stirring continually, until rather thick, 
 then add a little port, sherry, or Marsala wine ; mix well, and serve 
 hot or cold. 
 
 No. 14. — Aeeoweoot Milk. 
 
 Put into a pan 4oz. of arrowroot, 3oz. of sugar, the peel of half 
 a lemon, \ teaspoonful of salt, 2-J- pints of milk ; set it on the fire, 
 stir round gently, boil for ten minutes, and serve. If no lemons at 
 hand, a little essence of any kind will do. 
 
 When short of milk, use half water ; half an ounce of fresh butter 
 is an improvement before serving. If required thicker, put a little 
 milk. 
 
 No. 15. — Thick Aeeoweoot Panada. 
 
 Put in a pan 5oz. of arrowroot, 2|oz. of white sugar, the peel of 
 half a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, 4 pints of water ; 
 mix all well, set on the fire, boil for ten minutes ; it is then ready. 
 The juice of a lemon is an improvement ; a gill of wine may also be 
 introduced, and -|oz. of calf’s-foot gelatine previously dissolved in 
 water will be strengthening. Milk, however, is preferable, if at 
 hand. 
 
 No. 16.— Aeeoweoot Watee. 
 
 Put into a pan 3oz. of arrowroot, 2oz. of white sugar, the peel 
 of a lemon, J teaspoonful of salt, 4 pints of water ; mix well, set on 
 the fire, boil for ten minutes. It is then ready to serve either hot 
 or cold. 
 
518 
 
 soyee/s hospital diets. 
 
 No. 17. — Bice Wateb. 
 
 Put 7 pints of water to boil, add to it 2 ounces of rice washed, 
 2oz. of sugar, the peel of two-thirds of a lemon ; boil gently for 
 three-quarters of an hour ; it will reduce to 5 pints ; strain through 
 a colander ; it is then ready. 
 
 The rice may be left in the beverage or made into a pudding, or 
 by the addition of a little sugar or jam, will be found very good for 
 either children or invalids. 
 
 No. 18. — Barley Water. 
 
 Put in a saucepan 7 pints of water, 2oz. of barley, which stir now 
 and then while boiling ; add 2oz. of white sugar, the rind of half a 
 lemon, thinly peeled ; let it boil gently for about two hours, without 
 covering it ; pass it through a sieve or colander ; it is then ready. 
 The barley and lemon may be left in it. 
 
 No. 19.— Soyer’s Plain Lemonade. 
 
 Thinly peel the third part of a lemon, which put into a basin with 
 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar ; roll the lemon with your hand upon the 
 table to soften it ; cut it into two, lengthwise, squeeze the juice over 
 the peel, &c., stir round for a minute with a spoon to form a sort of 
 syrup ; pour over a pint of water, mix well, and remove the pips ; it 
 is then ready for use. If a very large lemon, and full of juice, and 
 very fresh, you may make a pint and a half to a quart, adding sugar 
 and peel in proportion to the increase of water. The juice only of 
 the lemon and sugar will make lemonade, but will then be deprived 
 of the aroma which the rind contains, the said rind being generally 
 thrown away. 
 
 No. 20. — Semi-Citric Lemonade. Beceipt eoe Fifty Pints. 
 
 Put loz. of citric acid to dissolve in a pint of water ; peel 20 
 lemons thinly, and put the peel in a large vessel, with 31bs. 2oz. of 
 white sugar well broken ; roll each lemon on the table to soften it, 
 which will facilitate the extraction of the juice ; cut them into two, 
 and press out the juice into a colander or sieve, over the peel and 
 sugar, then pour half a pint of water through the colander, so as to 
 leave no juice remaining; triturate the sugar, juice and peel together 
 for a minute or two with a spoon, so as to form a sort of syrup, and 
 extract the aroma from the peel and the dissolved citric acid ; mix 
 all well together, pour on 50 pints of cold water, stir well together ; 
 it is then ready. A little ice in summer is a great addition. 
 
 Observation. — The two following Lemonades, which have been 
 submitted to eminent Doctors at Scutari, have been approved of, and 
 can be made for either the Hospitals or the Camp, and will be found 
 to answer equally for domestic consumption, if lemons are not to be 
 obtained. 
 
519 
 
 soyer’s hospital diets. 
 
 No. 21. — Soyer’s Cheap Crimean Lemonade. 
 
 Pat into a basin 2 tablespoonfuls of white or brown sugar, J a table- 
 spoonful of lime juice, mix well together for one minute, add 1 pint 
 of water, and the beverage is ready. A drop of rum will make a 
 good variation, as lime juice and rum are daily issued to the 
 soldiers. 
 
 No. 22. — Tartaric Lemonade. 
 
 Dissolve loz. of crystallized tartaric acid in a pint of cold water, 
 which put in a large vessel; when dissolved, add lib. 9oz. of white 
 or brown sugar — the former is preferable ; mix well to form a thick 
 syrup ; add to it 24 pints of cold water, slowly mixing well ; it is 
 then ready. 
 
 It may be strained through either a colander or a jelly-bag; if 
 required very light, add 5 pints more water, and sugar in proportion ; 
 if citric acid be used, put only 20 pints of water to each ounce. 
 
 No. 23. — Cheap Plain Eice Pudding, for Campaigning, 
 
 In which no eggs or milk are required : important in the Crimea or 
 the field. 
 
 Put on the fire, in a moderate-sized saucepan, 12 pints of water ; 
 when boiling, add to it lib. of rice or 16 tablespoonsful, 4oz. of 
 brown sugar or 4 tablespoonsful, 1 large teaspoonful of salt, and the 
 rind of a lemon thinly pealed ; boil gently for half an hour, then 
 strain all the water from the rice, keeping it as dry as possible. 
 
 The rice-water is then ready for drinking, either warm or cold. 
 The juice of a lemon may be introduced, which will make it more 
 palatable and refreshing. 
 
 the pudding. 
 
 Add to the rice 3oz. of sugar, 4 tablespoonsful of flour, half a 
 teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon ; stir it on the fire carefully for five 
 or ten minutes; put it in a tin or a pie-dish, and bake. By boiling 
 the rice a quarter of an hour longer, it will be very good to eat 
 without baking. Cinnamon may be omitted. 
 
 No. 23a.~ Batter Pudding. 
 
 Break two fresh eggs in a basin, beat them well, add one table- 
 spoonful and a half of flour, which beat up with your eggs with a 
 fork until no lumps remain ; add a gill of milk, a teaspoonful of 
 salt, butter a teacup or a basin, pour in your mixture, put some 
 water in a stew-pan, enough to immerge half way up the cup or 
 basin in water; when boiling put in your cup or basin and boil 
 twenty minutes, or till your pudding is well set ; pass a knife to 
 loosen it, turn out on a plate, pour pounded sugar and a pat of fresh 
 butter over, and serve. A little lemon, cinnamon, or a drop of any 
 
520 
 
 soyer’s hospital diets. 
 
 essence may be introduced. A little light melted butter, sherry, and 
 sugar, may be poured over. If required more delicate, add a little 
 less flour. It may be served plain. 
 
 No. 24 — Bread and Butter Pudding. 
 
 Butter a tart- dish well, and sprinkle some currants all round it, 
 then lay in a few slices of bread and butter ; boil one pint of milk, 
 pour it on two eggs well whipped, and then on the bread and butter ; 
 bake it in a hot oven for half an hour. Currants may be omitted. 
 
 No. 25. — Bread Pudding. 
 
 Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel ; 
 pour it on two ounces of bread-crumbs ; then add two eggs, half an 
 ounce of currants, and a little sugar : steam it in a buttered mould 
 for one hour. 
 
 No. 26. — Custard Pudding. 
 
 Boil one pint of milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel and half a 
 bay-leaf, for three minutes ; then pour these on to three eggs, mix 
 it with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it into a buttered 
 mould : steam it twenty-five minutes in a stew-pan with some water 
 (see No. 115), turn out on a plate and serve. 
 
 No. 27. — Rich Rice Pudding. 
 
 Put in Jib. of rice in a stew-pan, washed, 3 pints of milk, 1 pint of 
 water, 3oz. of sugar, 1 lemon peel, loz. of fresh butter ; boil gently 
 half an hour, or until the rice is tender ; add 4 eggs, well beaten, 
 mix well, and bake quickly for half an hour, and serve : it may be 
 steamed if preferred. 
 
 No. 28— Stewed Macaroni. 
 
 Put in a stewpan 2 quarts of water, half a tablespoonful of salt, 
 2oz. of butter ; set on the fire ; when boiling, add lib. of macaroni, 
 broken up rather small ; when boiled very soft, throw off the water ; 
 mix well into the macaroni a tablespoonful of flour, add enough 
 milk to make it of the consistency of thin melted butter ; boil gently 
 twenty minutes ; add in a tablespoonful of either brown or white 
 sugar, or honey, and serve. 
 
 A little cinnamon, nutmeg, lemon-peel, or orange-flower water 
 may be introduced to impart a flavour ; stir quick. A gill of milk or 
 cream may now be thrown in three minutes before serving. Nothing 
 can be more light and nutritious than macaroni done this way. If 
 no milk, use water. 
 
 No. 29. — Macaroni Pudding. 
 
 Put 2 pints of water to boil, add to it 2oz. of macaroni, broken in 
 small pieces ; boil till tender, drain off the water and add half a table- 
 spoonful of flour, 2oz. of white sugar, a quarter of a pint of milk, 
 and boil together for ten minutes ; beat an egg up, pour it to the 
 
soyek/s hospital diets. 
 
 521 
 
 other ingredients, a nut of butter ; mix well and bake, or steam. It 
 can be served plain, and may be flavoured with either cinnamon, 
 lemon, or other essences, as orange flower- water, vanilla, &c. 
 
 No. 30. — Sago Pudding. 
 
 Put in a pan 4oz. of sago, 2oz. of sugar, half a lemon peel or a 
 little cinnamon, a small pat of fresh butter, if handy, half a pint of 
 milk ; boil for a few minutes, or until rather thick, stirring all the 
 while ; beat up 2 eggs and mix quickly with the same ; it is then 
 ready for either baking or steaming, or may be served plain. 
 
 No. 31. — Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 Put in a pan 2oz. of tapioca, 1^ pint of milk, loz. of white or 
 brown sugar, a little salt, set on the fire, boil gently for fifteen 
 minutes, or until the tapioca is tender, stirring now and then to 
 prevent its sticking to the bottom, or burning ; then add two eggs 
 well beaten; steam or bake, and serve. It will take about twenty 
 minutes steaming, or a quarter of an hour baking slightly. Flavour 
 with either lemon, cinnamon, or any other essence. 
 
 No. 32. — Boiled Rice semi-curried, for the premoni- 
 tory SYMPTOMS OF DlARRHCEA. 
 
 Put 1 quart of water in a pot or saucepan ; when boiling, wash 
 -Jib. of rice and throw it into the water ; boil fast for ten minutes ; 
 drain your rice in a colander, put it back in the saucepan, which you 
 have slightly greased with butter ; let it swell slowly near the fire, or 
 in a slow oven till tender ; each grain will then be light and well 
 separated. 
 
 Add to the above a small tablespoonful of aromatic sauce, called 
 “Soyer’s Relish or Sultana Sauce,” with a quarter of a teaspoonful 
 of curry powder ; mix together with a fork lightly, and serve. This 
 quantity will be sufficient for two or three people, according to the 
 prescriptions of the attending physician. 
 
 No. 33. — Figs and Apple Beverage. 
 
 Have 2 quarts of water boiling, into which throw 6 dry figs 
 previously opened, and 2 apples, cut into six or eight slices each ; let 
 the whole boil together twenty minutes, then pour them into a basin 
 to cool ; pass through a sieve ; drain the figs, which will be good 
 to eat with a little sugar or jam. 
 
 No. 34. — Stewed French Plums. 
 
 Put 12 large or 18 small-size French plums, soak them for half 
 an hour, put in a stew-pan with a spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of 
 water, a little cinnamon, and some thin rind of lemon ; let them 
 stew gently twenty minutes, then put them in a basin till cold with 
 a little of the juice. A small glass of either port, sherry, or claret is 
 a very good addition. The syrup is excellent. 
 
522 
 
 soyeb/s hospital diets. 
 
 N o. 35. — Feench Heeb Beoth. 
 
 This is a very favourite beverage in France, as well with people 
 in health as with invalids, especially in spring, when the herbs are 
 young and green. 
 
 Put a quart of water to boil, having previously prepared about 
 40 leaves of sorrel, a cabbage lettuce, and 10 sprigs of chervil, the 
 whole well washed ; when the water is boiling, throw in the herbs, 
 with the addition of a teaspoonful of salt, and -|oz. of fresh butter ; 
 cover the saucepan close, and let simmer a few minutes, then strain 
 it through a sieve or colander. 
 
 This is to be drunk cold, especially in the spring of the year, after 
 the change from winter. I generally drink about a quart per day 
 for a week at that time ; but if for sick people it must be made less 
 strong of herbs, and taken a little warm. 
 
 To prove that it is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct 
 which teaches dogs to eat grass at that season of the year. I do 
 not pretend to say that it would suit persons in every malady, because 
 the doctors are to decide upon the food and beverage of their patients, 
 and study its changes as well as change their medicines ; but I repeat 
 that this is most useful and refreshing for the blood. 
 
 No. 36. — Beowning foe Soups, etc. 
 
 Put Jib. of moist sugar into an iron pan and melt it over a 
 moderate fire till quite black, stirring it continually, which will take 
 about twenty- five minutes : it must colour by degrees, as too sudden 
 a heat will make it bitter ; then add 2 quarts of water, and in ten 
 minutes the sugar will be dissolved. You may then bottle it 
 for use. It will keep good for a month, and will always be found 
 very useful. 
 
 No. 37. — Toast-akd-Watek. 
 
 Cut a piece of crusty bread, about a Jib. in weight, place it upon a 
 toasting-fork, and hold it about six inches from the fire ; turn it 
 often, and keep moving it gently until of a light-yellow colour, then 
 place it nearer the fire, and when of a good brown chocolate colour, 
 put it in a jug and pour over 3 pints of boiling water ; cover the jug 
 until cold, then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use. 
 Never leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermenta- 
 tion in a short time. I would almost venture to say that such toast- 
 and-water as I have described, though so very simple, is the only 
 way toast-water should be made, and that it would keep good a 
 considerable time in bottles. 
 
 Baked Apple Toast- and-Water. — A piece of apple, slowly toasted 
 till it gets quite black, and added to the above, makes a very nice 
 and refreshing drink for invalids. 
 
 Apple Bice Water. — Half a pound of rice, boiled in the above 
 until in pulp, passed through a colander, and drunk when cold. 
 
soyer’s hospital diets. 
 
 523 
 
 All kinds of fruit may be done the same way. 
 
 Figs and French plums are excellent; also raisins. 
 
 A little ginger, if approved of, may be used. 
 
 Apple Barley Water . — A quarter of a pound of pearl barley 
 instead of toast added to the above, and boil for one hour, is also a 
 very nice drink. 
 
 Citronade. — Put a gallon of water on to boil, cut up one pound 
 of apples, each one into quarters, two lemons in thin slices, put them 
 in the water, and boil them until they can be pulped, pass the liquor 
 through a colander, boil it up again with half a pound of brown 
 sugar, skim, and bottle for use, taking care not to cork the bottle, 
 and keep it in a cool place. 
 
 For Spring Frink. — Khubarb, in the same quantities, and done 
 in the same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling. 
 
 Also green gooseberries. 
 
 For Summer Frink. — One pound of red currants, bruised with 
 some raspberry, half a pound of sugar added to a gallon of cold 
 water, well stirred, and allowed to settle. The juice of a lemon. 
 
 Mulberry. — The same, adding a little lemon-peel. 
 
 A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them 
 more cooling in summer and spring. 
 
 Flain Lemonade. — Cut in very thin slices three lemons, put 
 them in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, either white or brown ; 
 bruise all together, add a gallon of water, and stir well. It is then 
 ready. 
 
 French Flum Water. — Boil 3 pints of water ; add in 6 or 8 
 dried plums previously split, 2 or 3 slices of lemon, a spoonful of 
 honey or sugar ; boil half an hour, and serve. 
 
 For Fig , Fate , and Raisin Water , proceed as above, adding the 
 juice of half a lemon to any of the above. If for fig water, use 
 6 figs. 
 
 Any quantity of the above fruits may be used with advantage in 
 rice, barley, or arrowroot water. 
 
 Effebvescent Betebages. 
 
 Raspberry Water. — Put 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar into a large 
 glass, pour in half a pint of water ; mix well. 
 
 Fine- apple Syrup. — Three tablespoonfuls to a pint. 
 
 Currant Syrup. — Proceed the same. 
 
 Syrup of Orgeat. — The same. 
 
 Orange-Flower Water. — The same, adding an ounce of lump 
 sugar, is a most soothing drink, and is to be procured at Yerrey’s, in 
 Begent Street, or Kuntz’s, opposite Yerrey’s. Put two tablespoon- 
 fuls to a glass of water. It is also extremely good with either Soda, 
 Seltzer, or Yichy Water, the last of which is to be obtained at the 
 depot, Margaret- street, Cavendish-square. 
 
ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 SOYER’S FIELD AND BARRACK COOKERY FOR THE 
 
 ARMY. 
 
 N.B. — These receipts are also applicable for barracks, in camp, 
 or while on the march, by the use of Soyer’s ISTew Field Stove, now 
 adopted by the military authorities. These receipts answer equally 
 as well for the navy. 
 
 Each stove will consume not more than from 12 to 151bs. of fuel, 
 and allowing 20 stoves to a regiment, the consumption would be 
 3001bs. per thousand men. 
 
 The allowance per man is, I believe, 3Jlbs. each, which gives a 
 total of 35001bs. per thousand men. 
 
ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 525 
 
 The economy of fuel would consequently be 3200lbs. per regi- 
 ment daily. Coal will burn with the same advantage. 
 
 Salt beef, pork, Irish stew, stewed beef, tea, coffee, cocoa, &c., can 
 be prepared in these stoves, and with the same economy. 
 
 They can also be fitted with an apparatus for baking, roasting, 
 and steaming. 
 
 No. 1. — Soyer’s Receipt to Cook Salt Meat eor Fifty 
 
 Men. 
 
 Head- Quarters , Crimea , 12 th May, 1856. 
 
 1. Put 501bs. of meat in the boiler. 
 
 2. Fill with water, and let soak all night. 
 
 3. Next morning wash the meat well. 
 
 4. Fill with fresh water, and boil gently three hours, and serve. 
 
 Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for 
 
 butter. 
 
 For salt pork proceed as above, or boil half beef and half pork — 
 the pieces of beef may be smaller than the pork, requiring a little 
 longer time doing. 
 
 Dumplings, No. 21, may be added to either pork or beef in pro- 
 portion ; and when pork is properly soaked, the liquor will make a 
 very good soup. The large yellow peas as used by the navy, may be 
 introduced ; it is important to have them, as they are a great improve- 
 ment. When properly soaked, French haricot beans and lentils may 
 also be used to advantage. By the addition of 5 pounds of split peas, 
 half a pound of brown sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of pepper, 10 onions ; 
 simmer gently till in pulp, remove the fat and serve ; broken biscuit 
 may be introduced. This will make an excellent mess. 
 
 No. 1a. — How TO SOAK AND PLAIN-BOIL THE RATIONS 
 of Salt Beef and Pork, on Land or at Sea. 
 
 To each pound of meat allow about a pint of water. Do not have 
 the pieces above 3 or 41bs. in weight. Let it soak for 7 or 8 hours, or 
 all night if possible. Wash each piece well with your hand in order 
 to extract as much salt as possible. It is then ready for cooking. If 
 less time be allowed, cut the pieces smaller and proceed the same,, 
 or parboil the meat for 20 minutes in the above quantity of water, 
 which throw off and add fresh. Meat may be soaked in sea water, 
 but by all means boiled in fresh when possible. 
 
 I should advise, at sea, to have a perforated iron box made, large 
 enough to contain half a ton or more of meat, which box will ascend 
 and descend by pulleys ; have also a frame made on which the box 
 might rest when lowered overboard, the meat being placed outside the 
 ship on a level with the water, the night before using ; the water 
 beating against the meat through the perforations will extract all 
 the salt. Meat may be soaked in sea water, but by all means 
 washed. 
 
526 
 
 ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 No. 2. — Soyer’s Army Soup eor Fifty Men. 
 
 Head - Quarters , 12th May , 1856. 
 
 1. Put in the boiler 60 pints, 7 \ gallons, or 5| camp kettles of 
 
 water. 
 
 2. Add to it 501bs. of meat, either beef or mutton. 
 
 3. The rations of preserved or fresh vegetables. 
 
 4. Ten small tablespoonfuls of salt. 
 
 5. Simmer three hours, and serve, 
 
 P.S. — When rice is issued put it in when boiling. 
 
 Three pounds will be sufficient. 
 
 About eight pounds of fresh vegetables. 
 
 Or four squares from a cake of preserved ditto. 
 
 A tablespoonful of pepper, if handy. 
 
 Skim off the fat, which, when cold, is an excellent substitute for 
 butter. 
 
 No. 2a. — Salt Pork with Mashed Peas, for One 
 Hundred Men. 
 
 Put in two stoves 501bs. of pork each, divide 241bs. in four, 
 pudding-cloths, rather loosely tied ; putting to boil at the same time 
 as your pork, let all boil gently till done, say about two hours ; take 
 out the pudding and peas, put all meat in one caldron, remove the 
 liquor from the other pan, turning back the peas in it, add two tea- 
 spoonfuls of pepper, a pound of the fat, and with the wooden spatula 
 smash the peas, and serve both. The addition of about half a pound 
 of flour and two quarts of liquor, boiled ten minutes, makes a great 
 improvement. Six sliced onions, fried and added to it, makes it 
 very delicate. 
 
 No. 3. — Stewed Salt Beef and Pork. 
 
 For a Company of One Hundred Men, or a Regiment of One 
 
 Thousand Men. 
 
 Head- Quarters ,12th June , 1855. 
 
 Put in a boiler, of well-soaked beef 301bs., cut in pieces of a 
 quarter of a pound each. 
 
 201bs. of pork, 
 l-^lb. of sugar. 
 
 81bs. of onions, sliced, 
 
 25 quarts of water. 
 
 41bs. of rice. 
 
 Simmer gently for three hours, skim the fat off the top, and serve. 
 
 Note. — How to soak the meat for the above mess. — Put 501bs. of 
 meat in each boiler, having filled them with water, and let soak all 
 night ; and prior to using it, wash it and squeeze with your hands, 
 to extract the salt. 
 
ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 527 
 
 In case the meat is still too salt, boil it for twenty minutes, throw 
 away the water, and put fresh to your stew. 
 
 By closely following the above receipt you will have an excellent 
 
 dish. 
 
 No. 4. — Soyer’s Food foe One Hundred Men, using Two 
 
 Stoves. 
 
 Head- Quarters , Crimea. 
 
 Out or chop 501bs. of fresh beef in pieces of about a Jib. each ; 
 put in the boiler, with 10 tablespoonfuls of salt, two ditto of pepper, 
 four ditto of sugar, onions 71bs. cut in slices : light the fire now, and 
 then stir the meat with a spatula, let it stew from 20 to 30 minutes, 
 or till it forms a thick gravy, then add a pound and a half of flour ; 
 mix well together, put in the boiler 18 quarts of water, stir well for a 
 minute or two, regulate the stove to a moderate heat, and let simmer 
 for about two hours. Mutton, pork, or veal, can be stewed in a 
 similar manner, but will take half an hour less cooking. 
 
 Note. — A pound of rice may be added with great advantage, ditto 
 plain dumplings, ditto potatoes, as well as mixed vegetables. 
 
 For a regiment of 1000 men use 20 stoves. 
 
 No. 5. — Plain Irish Stew for Fifty Men. 
 
 Cut 501bs. of mutton into pieces of a quarter of a pound each, put 
 them in the pan, add 81bs. of large onions, 121bs. of whole potatoes, 
 8 tablepoonfuls of salt, 3 tablespoonfuls of pepper ; cover all with 
 water, giving about half a pint to each pound ; then light the fire ; 
 one hour and a half of gentle ebullition will make a most excellent 
 stew ; mash some of the potatoes to thicken the gravy, and serve. 
 Fresh beef, veal, or pork, will also make a good stew. Beef takes 
 two hours doing. Dumplings may be added half an hour before done. 
 
 No. 6. — To Cook for a Regiment of a Thousand Men. 
 
 Head- Quarters , Crimea , 20th June , 1855. 
 
 Place twenty stoves in a row, in the open air or under cover. 
 
 Put 30 quarts of water in each boiler, 501bs. of ration meat, 
 4 squares from a cake of dried vegetables — or, if fresh mixed vege- 
 tables are issued, 121bs. weight — 10 small tablespoonfuls of salt, 
 1 ditto of pepper, light the fire, simmer gently from two hours to 
 two hours and a half, skim the fat from the top, and serve. 
 
 It will require only four cooks per regiment, the provision and 
 water being carried to the kitchen by fatigue-parties ; the kitchen 
 being central, instead of the kitchen going to each company, each 
 company sends two men to the kitchen with a pole to carry the 
 meat. 
 
 No. 7. — Salt Pork and Puddings with Cabbage and 
 
 Potatoes. 
 
 Put 251bs. of salt pork in each boiler, with the other 501bs. from 
 which you have extracted the large bones, cut in dice, and made into 
 
528 
 
 ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 puddings ; when on the boil, put five puddings in each, boil rather fast 
 for two hours. You have peeled 121bs. of potatoes and put in a net in 
 each caldron ; put also 2 winter cabbages in nets, three-quarters of 
 an hour before your pudding is done ; divide the pork, pudding, and 
 cabbage in proportion, or let fifty of the men have pudding that day 
 and meat the other; remove the fat, and serve. The liquor will 
 make very good soup by adding peas or rice, as No. la. 
 
 For the pudding-paste put one quarter of a pound of dripping, or 
 beef or mutton suet, to every pound of flour you use ; roll your 
 paste for each half an inch thick, put a pudding-cloth in a basin, 
 flour round, lay in your paste, add your meat in proportion ; season 
 with pepper and a minced onion ; close your pudding in a cloth, 
 and boil. 
 
 This receipt is more applicable to barrack and public institutions 
 than a camp. Fresh meat of any kind may be done the same, and 
 boiled with either salt pork or beef. 
 
 No. 8. — Turkish Pilaff for One Hundred Men. 
 
 Put in the caldron 21bs. of fat, which you have saved from salt 
 pork, add to it 41bs. of peeled and sliced onions ; let them fry in 
 the fat for about ten minutes ; add in then 121bs. of rice, cover the 
 rice over with water, the rice being submerged two inches, add to it 
 7 tablespoonfuls of salt, and 1 of pepper ; let simmer gently for 
 about an hour, stirring it with a spatula occasionally to prevent it 
 burning, but when commencing to boil, a very little fire ought to be 
 kept under. Each grain ought to be swollen to the full size of rice, 
 and separate. In the other stove put fat and onions the same quantity 
 with the same seasoning ; cut the flesh of the mutton, veal, pork, or 
 beef from the bone, cut in dice of about 2oz. each, put in the pan 
 with the fat and onions, set it going with a very sharp fire, having 
 put in 2 quarts of water : steam gently, stirring occasionally for 
 about half an hour, till forming rather a rich thick gravy. When 
 both the rice and meat are done, take half the rice and mix with 
 the meat, and then the remainder of the meat and rice, and serve. 
 Save the bones for soup for the following day. Salt pork or beef, 
 well soaked, may be used — omitting the salt. Any kind of vege- 
 tables may be frizzled with the onions. 
 
 No. 9. — Baking and Boasting with the Field Stove. 
 
 By the removal of the caldron, and the application of a false 
 bottom put over the fire, bread bakes extremely well in the oven, as 
 well as meat, potatoes, puddings, &c. Bread might be baked in oven 
 at every available opportunity, at a trifling cost of fuel. The last 
 experiment I made with one was a piece of beef weighing about 
 251bs., a large Yorkshire pudding, and about lOlbs. of potatoes, the 
 whole doing at considerably under one pennyworth of fuel, being a 
 mixture of coal and coke ; the whole was done to perfection, and of a 
 nice brown colour. Any kind of meat would, of course, roast the same. 
 
ARMY RECEIPTS . 
 
 529 
 
 Baking in fixed Oven . — In barracks, or large institutions, where 
 an oven is handy, I would recommend that a long iron trough be made, 
 four feet in length, with a two-story movable grating in it, the meat 
 on the top of the upper one giving a nice elevation to get the heat 
 from the roof, and the potatoes on the grating under, and a Yorkshire 
 pudding, at the bottom. Four or five pieces of meat may be done 
 on one trough. If no pudding is made, add a quart more water, 
 
 No. 10. — Feench Beef Soup, oe Pot-au-feu, Camp Fashion. 
 Foe the oedinaey Canteen-Pan. 
 
 Put in the canteen saucepan 61bs, of beef, cut in two or three 
 pieces, bones included, fib. of plain mixed vegetables, as onions 1 , 
 carrots, turnips, celery, leeks, or such of these as can be obtained, or 
 3oz. of preserved in cakes, as now given to the troops ; 3 tea* 
 spoonfuls of salt, 1 ditto of pepper, 1 ditto of sugar, if handy; 8 
 pints of water, let it boil gently three hours, remove some of the fat, 
 and serve. 
 
 The addition of l^lb. of bread cut into slices or lib. of broken 
 biscuits, well soaked, in the broth, will make a very nutritious soup ; 
 skimming is not required. 
 
 No. 11. — Semi-Feying, Camp Fashion, Chops, Steaks, 
 and all Kinds Meat of. 
 
 If it is difficult to broil to perfection, it is considerably more so to 
 cook meat of any kind in a frying-pan. Place your pan on the fire 
 for a minute or so, wipe it very clean; when the pan is very hot, add 
 in it either fat or butter, but the fat from salt and ration meat is 
 preferable ; the fat will immediately get very hot ; then add the meat 
 you are going to cook, turn it several times to have it equally done; 
 season to each pound a small teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of 
 pepper, and serve. Any sauce or maitre d’hotel butter may be 
 added. A few fried onions in the remaining fat, with the addition 
 of a little flour to the onion, a quarter of a pint of water, two 
 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a few chopped pickles or piccalilly, will be 
 very relishing. 
 
 No. 11a. — Tea foe Eighty Men, 
 
 Which often constitutes a whole Company. 
 
 One boiler will, with ease, make tea for eighty men, allowing a 
 pint each man. Put forty quarts of water to boil, place the rations 
 of tea in a fine net, very loose, or in a large perforated ball ; give 
 one minute to boil, take out the fire, if too much, shut down the 
 cover ; in ten minutes it is ready to serve. 
 
 No. 12.— Coffee a la Zouave foe a Mess of Ten Soldieks, 
 
 As I have taught many how to make it in the camp, the canteen 
 saucepan holding 10 pints. 
 
 M M 
 
530 
 
 ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 Put 9 pints of water into a canteen saucepan on the fire ; when 
 boiling add 7-Joz. of coffee, which forms the ration, mix them well 
 together with a spoon or a piece of wood, leave on the fire for a few 
 minutes longer, or until just beginning to boil. Take it off and 
 pour in 1 pint of cold water, let the whole remain for ten minutes 
 or a little longer. The dregs of the coffee will fall to the bottom, 
 and your coffee will be clear. 
 
 Pour it from one vessel to the other, leaving the dregs at the 
 bottom, add your ration sugar or 2 teaspoonfuls to the pint ; if any 
 milk is to be had make 2 pints of coffee less ; add that quantity of 
 milk to your coffee, the former may be boiled previously, and 
 serve. 
 
 This is a very good way for making coffee even in any family, 
 especially a numerous one, using loz. to the quart if required 
 stronger. For a company of eighty men use the field-stove and four 
 times the quantity of ingredients. 
 
 No. 13. — Coffee, Turkish Fashion. 
 
 When the water is just on the boil add the coffee and sugar, 
 mix well as above, give just a boil and serve. The grouts of coffee 
 will in a few seconds fall to the bottom of the cups. The Turks 
 wisely leave it there, I would advise every one in camp to do the 
 same. 
 
 No. 14— Cocoa for Eighty Men. 
 
 Break eighty portions of ration cocoa in rather small pieces, put 
 them in the boiler, with five or six pints of water, light the fire, stir 
 the cocoa round till melted, and forming a pulp not too thick, pre- 
 venting any lumps forming, add to it the remaining water, hot or 
 cold ; add the ration sugar, and when just boiling, it is ready for 
 serving. If short of cocoa in campaigning, put about sixty rations, 
 and when in pulp, add half a pound of flour or arrowroot. 
 
 Easy and excellent way of Cooking in Earthen Pans. 
 
 A very favourite and plain dish amongst the convalescent and 
 orderlies at Scutari was the following : — 
 
 Soyer’s Baking Stewing Pan, the drawing of which I extract from 
 my “ Shilling Cookery.” The simplicity of the process, and the 
 economical system of cooking which may be produced in it, induced 
 me to introduce it here. 
 
 Each pan is capable of cooking for fifteen men, and no matter 
 how hard may be the meat, or small the cutting, or poor the 
 quality, — while fresh it would always make an excellent dish. 
 Proceed as follows : — Cut any part of either beef (cheek or tail), 
 veal, mutton, or pork, in fact any hard part of the animal, in 4oz. 
 slices ; have ready for each 4 or 5 onions and 4 or 5 pounds of 
 potatoes cut in slices ; put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of the 
 pan, then a layer of meat, season to each pound 1 teaspoonful of 
 
ARMY RECEIPTS.. 
 
 531 
 
 salt, quarter 1 of pepper, and some onion you have already minced ; 
 then lay in layers of meat and potatoes alternately till full; put in 
 2 pints of water, lay on the lid, close the bar, lock the pot, bake two 
 hours, and serve. 
 
 Remove some of the fat from the top, if too much ; a few dump- 
 
 A 
 
 Soyer’s Baking Stewing Pan. 
 
 lings, as No. 21, in it will also be found excellent. By adding over 
 each layer a little flour it makes a thick rich sauce. Half fresh meat 
 and salt ditto will also be found excellent. The price of these pans 
 is moderate, and they last a long time — manufacturers, Messrs. Deane 
 and Dray.* 
 
 SERIES OF SMALL RECEIPTS FOR A SQUAD, OUTPOST, 
 OR PICKET OF MEN, 
 
 Which may be increased in proportion of companies. 
 
 Camp Receipts for the Army in the East. 
 
 {From the Times of the 22 nd January , 1855. )f 
 
 No. 15. Camp Soup . — Put half a pound of salt pork in a saucepan, 
 two ounces of rice, two pints and a half of cold water, and, when 
 
 * If no oven, put the pan in water three-parts up, and give half 
 an hour longer. For public institutions, fish, meat, and game may 
 be cooked in a similar manner, for which receipts refer to my 
 “ Shilling Cookery.” 
 
 f The following receipts were written by me in reply to a request 
 inserted in the Times in January, 1855. Each receipt is for two 
 men, but may be increased by adding to the proportions. 
 
 mm2 
 
532 
 
 ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 boiling, let simmer another hour, stirring once or twice ; break in 
 six ounces of biscuit, let soak ten minutes ; it is then ready, adding 
 one teaspoonful of sugar, and a quarter one of pepper, if handy. 
 
 No. 16. Beef Soup. — Proceed as above, boil an hour longer, adding 
 a pint more water. 
 
 Note. — Those who can obtain any of the following vegetables will 
 find them a great improvement to the above soups : — Add four ounces 
 of either onions, carrots, celery, turnips, leeks, greens, cabbage, or 
 potatoes, previously well washed or peeled, or any of these mixed to 
 make up four ounces, putting them in the pot with the meat. 
 
 I have used the green tops of leeks and the leaf of celery as well 
 as the stem, and found that for stewing they are preferable to the 
 white part for flavour. The meat being generally salted with rock 
 salt, it ought to be well scraped and washed, or even soaked in water 
 a few hours if convenient ; but if the last cannot be done, and the 
 meat is therefore too salt, which would spoil the broth, parboil it 
 for twenty minutes in water, before using for soup, taking care to 
 throw this water away. 
 
 No. 17. — For fresh beef proceed, as far as the cooking goes, as for 
 salt beef, adding a teaspoonful of salt to the water. 
 
 No. 18. Bea Soup. — Put in your pot half a pound of salt pork, 
 half a pint of peas, three pints of water, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
 half one of pepper, four ounces of vegetables, cut in slices, if to be 
 had boil gently two hours, or until the peas are tender, as some 
 require boiling longer than others — and serve. 
 
 No. 19. Stewed Fresh Beef and Bice. — Put an ounce of fat in a 
 pot, cut half a pound of meat in large dice, add a teaspoonful of salt, 
 half one of sugar, an onion sliced ; put on the fire to stew for fifteen 
 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add two ounces of rice, a pint of 
 water; stew gently till done, and serve. Any savoury herb will 
 improve the flavour. Fresh pork, veal, or mutton, may be done the 
 same way, and half a pound of potatoes used instead of the rice, and 
 as rations are served out for three days, the whole of the provisions 
 may be cooked at once, as it will keep for some days this time of the 
 year, and is easily warmed up again. 
 
 N.B. For a regular canteen pan triple the quantity. 
 
 No. 20. — Keceipts for the Frying-pah. 
 
 Those who are fortunate enough to possess a frying-pan will find 
 the following receipts very useful: — Cut in small dice half a pound 
 of solid meat, keeping the bones for soup ; put your pan, which 
 ' should be quite clean, on the fire ; when hot through, add an ounce 
 of fat, melt it and put in the meat, season with half a teaspoonful of 
 salt ; fry for ten minutes, stirring now and then ; add a teaspoonful 
 of flour, mix all well, put in half a pint of water, let simmer for 
 fifteen minutes, pour over a biscuit previously soaked, and serve. 
 
 The addition of a little pepper and sugar, if handy, is an improve- 
 
ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 533 
 
 ment, as is also a pinch of cayenne, curry-powder, or spice ; sauces 
 and pickles used in small quantities would be very relishing ; these 
 are articles which will keep for any length of time. As fresh 
 meat is not easily obtained, any of the cold salt meat may be 
 dressed as above, omitting the salt, and only requires warming; 
 or, for a change, boil the meat plainly, or with greens, or cabbage, 
 or dumplings, as for beef; then the next day cut what is left in 
 small dice — say four ounces — put in a pan an ounce of fat ; when 
 very hot, pour in the following.: — Mix in a basin a tablespoonful of 
 flour, moisten with water to form the consistency of thick melted 
 butter, then pour it in the pan, letting it remain for one or two 
 minutes, or until set ; put in the meat, shake the pan to loosen it, 
 turn it over, let it remain a few minutes longer, and serve. 
 
 To cook bacon, chops, steaks, slices of any kind of meat, salt or 
 fresh sausages, black puddings, &c. Make the pan very hot, having 
 wiped it clean, add in fat, dripping, butter, or oil, about an ounce of 
 either ; put in the meat, turn three or four times, and season with 
 salt and pepper. A few minutes will do it. If the meat is salt, it 
 must be well soaked previous^. 
 
 No. 21 . — Suet Dumplings. 
 
 Take half a pound of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter 
 teaspoonful of pepper, a quarter of a pound of chopped fat pork or 
 beef suet, eight tablespoonfuls of water, mixed well together. It 
 will form a thick paste, and when formed, divide it into six or eight 
 pieces, which roll in flour, and boil with the meat for twenty minutes 
 to half an hour. Little chopped onion or aromatic herbs will give 
 it a flavour. 
 
 A plainer way , when Fat is not to be obtained . — Put the same 
 quantity of flour and seasoning in a little more water, and make it 
 softer, and divide it into sixteen pieces ; boil about ten minutes. 
 Serve round the meat. 
 
 One plain pudding may be made of the above, also peas and rice 
 pudding thus : — One pound of peas well tied in a cloth, or rice ditto 
 with the beef. It will form a good pudding. The following ingre- 
 dients may be added : a little salt, sugar, pepper, chopped onions* 
 aromatic herbs, and two ounces of chopped fat will make these pud- 
 dlings palatable and delicate. 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 In introducing tlie subjoined Bill of Bare, applicable to the London 
 suppers, I must here repeat that which I have previously men- 
 tioned, that my idea is far from replacing the dishes now so 
 much in vogue both at the “ Albion,” Simpson’s in the Strand, 
 Evans’ Cider Cellars, and such-like places ; but now and then 
 a couple of dishes taken from these receipts cannot fail to prove 
 agreeable to the partakers, without much interfering with the 
 regular routine of the nightly business of such establishments. 
 
 No. 1 . — Plain Mutton Chops and Rump Steaks. 
 
 Though almost anybody can boast of being able to cook a plain 
 steak or a chop, very few can say they can do them to perfection. 
 First of all, to obtain this important point, either the mutton or beef 
 ought to be kept till properly set, according to season ; secondly, the 
 chop especially is more preferable when cut and beat, some time before 
 cooking, so as to set the meat and prevent its shrinking; it at all 
 times requires a sharp fire (the broiling City fires may he taken as 
 an example, and the continual red heat of the gridiron) ; lay your 
 gridiron over a sharp fire, two minutes after lay on your chop or 
 steak, turn three or tour times ; when half done, season highly with 
 salt and pepper, and when done, serve immediately , on a very hot 
 dish. Ten minutes will do a steak of 1-Jlb., and about six minutes 
 a chop. 
 
 No. 2. — Rumpsteak and Potatoes. 
 
 Of all steaks, rumpsteaks are far more preferable than any other, 
 not excepting the fillet of beef, as the meat in England is so rich, 
 while in France they eat only the fillet of beef — that being the only 
 eatable steak of a French ox. Have your steak cut as even as 
 possible, nearly an inch thick, and weighing from about l^lbs. to 
 21bs.; broil it sharply as described above, season when properly 
 done, lay it on a very hot dish, put on 2oz. or more of maitre d’hotel 
 butter (No. 2), turn it three or four times on the dish quickly, 
 when a most delicious gravy will be formed, then place about a 
 pound of fried potatoes round it, and serve. For smaller steaks, for 
 cooking be guided by size. 
 
 Ditto with Anchovy Butter, of which use 2oz. in lieu of the 
 maitre d’hotel butter, and omit the potatoes. 
 
 Same with Bimento Butter . 
 
 Same with Shalot Butter, well rubbing the dish prior to putting 
 the steak on it. 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 535 
 
 No. 3. — Mutton and Lamb Cutlets a la Bouchere. 
 
 The word a la bouchere, in English, means the butcher’s wife’s 
 plain fashion, and at one time had only the merit of economy ; but 
 a real gourmet, the illustrious Cambaceres, who lived in the time 
 of the first Empire, being served with this dish at a little country 
 inn, while travelling, discovered the correctness of the proverb 
 that “ the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat,” and on returning 
 to Paris introduced it to the fashionable circle, and for a long 
 period this exquisite cotelettes d’agneaux de maison, or house- 
 lamb cutlet, and the dainty and justly celebrated cutlets de pre- 
 sale, were figuring on all the banqueting tables of the Paris gourmets 
 in perfect neglige , being dressed in the following unceremonious 
 manner : — Take either a neck of lamb or mutton, neither too fat nor 
 too lean, chop the cutlets about six inches in length, cutting them as 
 usual, leaving a bone in each ; flatten them with the chopper, not 
 trimming them at all, season them highly with salt and pepper, 
 broil them very quick, and serve hot. Lamb, mutton, and veal cutlets 
 may be done the same. 
 
 For plain cutlets with fried potatoes, cut them either a la bouchere 
 or trim them , and proceed as lor rumpsteak. 
 
 Ditto for Cutlets a la maitre d’hotel. 
 
 For relishing sauce, see List of Sauces. 
 
 No. 4. — Lamb and Mutton Cutlets, semi-BouchePvE. 
 
 Cut your cutlets from the neck, one inch thick ; beat them flat 
 with a chopper without trimming them, roll them in flour, butter 
 over ; season with salt, pepper, a little chopped shalot ; broil on a 
 sharp fire, turn three or four times, and serve. 
 
 No. 5. — Relishing Steak. 
 
 (Mutton, Yeal, Pork, Chops and Cutlets, Fowls, Pigeons, Grilled 
 Bones, Kidneys, &c.) 
 
 Chop fine a tablespoonful of green pickled chillies : mix with two 
 pats of butter, a little mustard, a spoonful of grated horseradish ; 
 have a nice thick steak, spread the steak on both sides with the above, 
 season with half a teaspoonful of salt, put on a gridiron on a sharp 
 fire, turn three or four times ; put on a hot dish with the juice of 
 half a lemon and two teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup, and serve. 
 If glaze is handy, spread a little over the steak. 
 
 Mutton, lamb, veal, pork, chops and cutlets may be done the 
 same ; as well as kidneys ; also grilled fowls, pigeons — the latter 
 may be egged and bread-crumbed. Proceed the same for cooking 
 according to size. Any of the above may be half done before rubbing 
 in the Chili butter. 
 
 No. 6. — Fillet de Bceuf, Parisian Fashion. 
 
 Cut a piece of the fillet of beef crosswise, including some fat, the 
 thickness of an inch ; beat it slightly flat with a chopper, set on a 
 
536 BILL OB BARE BOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 gridiron, put it on a very sharp fire, turn it two or three times ; 
 when half done, season with a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, 
 quarter that of pepper, put on a hot plate, rub over with an ounce of 
 mattre d’hotel butter (as N o. 2) ; serve up with fried potatoes. 
 
 Mutton chops, veal chops, and lamb chops may be dressed similar. 
 
 No. 7 . — Fillet oe Beep, semi-Chateaubriant. 
 
 Cut it double the thickness of the above, butter lightly over, set 
 on the gridiron on a slowish fire, turn several times ; when half done, 
 place it nearer the fire; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 quarter one of pepper, a little cayenne, and serve with sauce a la 
 Mussulman (as No. 17). Maitre d’hotel butter or anchovy butter 
 may be used instead ; serve fried chipped potatoes round. 
 
 No. 8. — Chops, semi-Proven9Al, or Marseilles Fashion. 
 
 "When the chop is half broiled, scrape half a clove of garlic and 
 rub over on both sides of the chop ; serve with the juice of a lemon. 
 For semi-Provencal, the clove of garlic is cut in two, and the flat 
 part is placed at the end of a fork and rubbed on the chop. 
 
 No. 9. — Chop or Steak a la Sultana. 
 
 Add a tablespoonful of Sultana sauce in a dish to each pound 
 of meat ; place in a dish and serve ; when the steak is done, turn it 
 in it three or four times, and it will make a most delicious gravy. 
 
 No. 10. — Mushroom Kidney Sandwich. 
 
 Broil 3 plain kidneys a la Brochette to keep them flat. Broil 
 also 6 large mushroom heads ; well season with salt and pepper 
 (cayenne if approved of). A few minutes will do them ; then rub 
 a little fresh butter inside the mushrooms; dish up each kidney 
 between two mushrooms while very hot, and serve. 
 
 If a large quantity is required, proceed thus — well butter a saute- 
 pan, lay in 20 or more heads of large mushrooms just washed, season 
 well with salt and pepper ; let stew for twenty minutes gently in an 
 oven, or till done ; make your kidney sandwich as above, add a table- 
 spoonful of the gravy over, and serve. The same may be served on 
 thin toast ; a tablespoonful of the Sultana Sauce to every half-dozen 
 kidneys, make a dish worthy an Epicurean. The stems of the mush- 
 rooms may be stewed and served with the dish. 
 
 No. 11. — Minced Sandwiches. 
 
 Cut in small thin slices some dressed ham, ox tongue, game, or 
 poultry, with a few pickled gherkins and olives, the whole in equal 
 portions; mix well together; butter the bread and spread some 
 mustard over, place the cut meat over the butter, cover over with 
 the other slice, cut small, and serve. 
 
BILL OP PALE POL LONDON SUPPELS. 
 
 537 
 
 No. 12 . — Kidneys Saute, with Sheeey, Poet, oe Champagne. 
 
 Cut three kidneys each in five pieces, put an ounce of butter in the 
 pan ; when very hot, and beginning to smoke, add the kidneys ; stir 
 round for two or three minutes with a spoon till set ; add a teaspoonful 
 of flour, quarter ditto of salt, the third part of that of pepper ; mix 
 well ; add half a gill of broth, a small wineglass of either of the above 
 wines ; if no broth, use water, adding a little glaze. A tablespoonful 
 of colouring (No. 15) is a great improvement to the appearance of 
 the sauce. Ox, calf, or pig’s kidneys may be dressed the same, 
 following the proportions according to the quantity made. All the 
 above are extremely good on toast, which would require a little more 
 liquor. A few mushrooms are an improvement. If brown sauce can 
 be obtained, omit the flour and broth. Do not let them boil; a few 
 minutes will do them. 
 
 No. 13. — Semi-Cueeied Kidneys. 
 
 Take three kidneys, which forms a portion, make a small incisionhn 
 the fleshy part, so as to enable you to remove the outer skin ; cut 
 each in five pieces crosswise, put some butter in a stewpan, salt, 
 pepper, a little chopped onions, give it a fry, add the kidneys, stir 
 them for a few minutes till set, put four tahlespoonfuls of curry sauce 
 (No. 9), and serve. If no curry sauce, add a quarter of a teaspoonful 
 of curry powder, one of flour, and one gill of broth; serve with 
 rice. 
 
 No. 14. — Kidney Toast. 
 
 Split the kidney in two, remove the sinews and outer skin, mince 
 it up, and then chop fine ; place in a stewpan some chopped eschalot 
 and parsley, with a small piece of butter, and fry the same lightly ; 
 when done, add a small spoonful of Sultana Sauce, a little flour, 
 and boil again ; while boiling, mix in the chopped kidneys; add salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg to taste. 
 
 Spread the composition upon slices of toast slightly buttered ; 
 mask them up with bread-crumbs mixed with Parmesan cheese, place 
 in a sharp oven for ten minutes, brown them w ith the salamander, 
 and serve quite hot. 
 
 No. 15. — Mutton, Lamb, oe Yeal Cutlets en Papillote, 
 oe weapped in Papee. Ditto, quaetee of Fowls and 
 half Pigeons, Devilled. 
 
 Cut two or three veal or mutton cutlets half an inch thick, then 
 put in a saute, or frying-pan, four tablespoonfuls of oil, season your 
 chops thoroughly with salt and pepper, cook them gently in the pan, 
 turning them several times ; before they are quite done, take them 
 off, add in ; mix with oil remaining in the pan two tablespoonfuls 
 of fine chopped onions, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, fry 
 these gently on the fire for a few minutes, stirring continually ; when 
 they become a little yellowish, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix 
 quick, then put in a pint of broth, boil till forming a thick sauce. 
 
538 
 
 BILL OB BABE BOB LONDON SUPPEBS. 
 
 add salt and pepper in proportion ; put back the chops into the pan, 
 simmer a few minutes, turning them ; cut some paper in the shape 
 of a heart, large enough to envelope one chop, oil it well, put a 
 tablespoonful of the sauce on the paper, then place on it a chop, 
 then more sauce, and plait the paper round the edge of the cutlet to 
 inclose it; then place in the pan in a hot oven, or broil slowly. 
 These cutlets might be prepared the day before using, and placed 
 more conveniently in paper when cold. 
 
 No. 16 . — Pork Chops a la Tartare, 
 
 Which has one great charm — simplicity. It is seldom to be obtained, 
 even in Crim Tartary, and when it is, the animal is in no very nice con- 
 dition. When procurable in a first-class Tartar family, they are 
 dipped in vinegar for about an hour prior to being fried or broiled. 
 Thin slices of raw onions are eaten with the above, and a kind of 
 cucumber peculiar to Bussia, and most delicious when properly 
 pickled ; they are cut in slices with the onions very thinly, the chop 
 is then placed over a layer while very hot, and another layer placed 
 over the chop, until it forms a vegetable sandwich. Such is the 
 dish so much relished by our hospitable Tartar families. 
 
 No. 17. — Lamb Chops a l’Aericaine. 
 
 Cut a lamb chop as usual, broil it very sharply, turning it con- 
 tinually ; when nearly done, season highly with salt and pepper, rub 
 over with chutnee (about a teaspoonful to each chop) on both sides, 
 then broil another minute and serve. Light melted butter with a 
 chopped girkin makes a good variation for such as veal, pork, and 
 broiled fowls, pigeons, and also for devilled poultry. 
 
 I must also observe that chutnee is excellent with all kinds of 
 broiled devils ; a little curry-powder may be introduced. 
 
 Lamb Chops a la Printaniere. 
 
 Add to the maitre d’hotel butter (as No. 2) chopped tarragon and 
 chervil instead of parsley. 
 
 Pork Chops with Pimento Butter. 
 
 Plain broil, and rub over, in proportion, half an ounce to each chop. 
 Add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup on the dish. 
 
 No. 18. — Lamb Chops a la Boulangere. 
 
 This lady, the boulangere, or baker’s wife, was invented by a lady 
 of the French Court, in opposition to the masculine manners of the 
 butcher’s wife. 
 
 Cut and trim neatly, eight, ten, or twelve small lamb cutlets, 
 enough for a small entree ; season lightly with salt, pepper, and a 
 little cayenne ; dip them gently in olive oil, then in the flour box, 
 and broil very gently on a slow fire ; while doing put a gill of cream 
 in a stewpan, set it on the fire, and when boiling add in two ounces 
 of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of chopped chervil, the juice of half a 
 lemon, a little salt and pepper ; stir quick till the butter is melted 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 539 
 
 and it forms a nice smooth sauce, then pour it over your cutlets and 
 serve quick. 
 
 No. 19. — Stewed Tripe. 
 
 Select two pounds of double tripe, cut in strips of a quarter pound 
 each, put in a clean stew-pan, add a pint of water, ditto of milk, two 
 teaspoonfuls of salt, half that of pepper, eight middling-sized onions 
 carefully peeled, which put in ; set to boil rather fast, then simmer 
 till done, which will be in half an hour or rather more ; turn out 
 into a deep dish or tureen, and serve. 
 
 No. 20. — Curried Tripe. 
 
 Make about a pint of curry sauce, as No. 9 ; cut each half-pound 
 in four pieces ; warm gently in it for half an hour, and serve with rice. 
 
 No. 21. — Gratin Tripe in Shell. 
 
 Add to the above 2 yolks of eggs ; mix quick ; having taken the 
 stewpan off the fire, stir quick ; put in the scolloped shells, throw 
 breadcrumbs over a little butter, put in an oven, salamander the 
 top, and serve. 
 
 No. 22. — Tripe Lyonnaise Fashion. 
 
 When any cold tripe remains, cut in thin slices about the thickness 
 of an inch square, mince 2 onions, put some butter, in proportion, 
 in a frying-pan, add in the onions, fry till they are partly done, add 
 the tripe, let fry for about 10 minutes, tossing them ; season with 
 salt and pepper, three teaspoonfuls of vinegar to each lib., and serve. 
 This is a very favourite dish in Lyons and Paris, both amongst the 
 gourmet and the gourmand. Well dry the tripe on a cloth before 
 frying ; it will take 3 ounces of butter to the pound. 
 
 No. 23. — Grilled Chicken with Sharp Sauce. 
 
 Prepare your chicken as for grill, oil it over slightly, season with 
 salt and pepper in proportion to size, then place it on a gridiron, on 
 a rather fierce fire. When ready done, put by degrees two tablespoon- 
 fuls of Sultana Sauce over it, losing none of it. When done, have 
 on a dish an ounce of butter ; pour over the butter another table- 
 spoonful of sauce ; mix well, and after turning the chicken two or 
 three times, serve it up. 
 
 For Eelishing Sauce proceed the same, pouring half a pint of that 
 sauce over it, No. 12. 
 
 No. 24. — Broiling or Universal Devil. 
 
 Any kind of bones which are to undergo the process of broiling 
 ou^ht not to exceed a quarter of a pound each in weight, a deep 
 incision being made in the fleshy part. The same for game and 
 poultry. Eub each piece with the Mixture No. 70, the quantity 
 according to palate, and broil very sharply, turning the bones 
 often. 
 
 Strong plain gravy may be served under all. 
 
540 
 
 BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 No. 25. — Sandwiches for Evening Parties. 
 
 Chop fine some cold dressed ham — say about a quarter of a pound, 
 put it in a basin with a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins and a tea- 
 spoonful of mustard, a little pepper or cayenne ; put about 6oz. of 
 butter in a basin, and with a spoon stir quickly till it forms a kind 
 of cream; add the ham and seasoning, mix all well; have the 
 sandwich bread cut in thin slices. Have already cut, thinly 
 intermixed with fat, either cold roast beef, veal, lamb, mutton, 
 poultry, fowl, pheasant, grouse, partridge, &c t , either of which lay 
 evenly, and not too thick, on your bread ; season with a little salt 
 and pepper, cover over with another piece of bread; when your 
 sandwich is ready, cut them in any shape you like, but rather small 
 and tastily, and serve. You may keep them in a cold place, if not 
 wanted, as they will keep good under cover for twelve hours. 
 Chopped tongue may be introduced instead of ham, in thin slices. 
 
 No, 26. — Lamb’s Fry. 
 
 Cut in middling- sized pieces about lib. of lamb’s fry, fairly mixed; 
 put one quart of water in a stew-pan ; when boiling, add in the fry, 
 boil fast for ten minutes, lay the fry on a cloth, dry it well, have 
 some fine bread-crumbs ready made, to which you add a teaspoonful 
 of salt, two of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, break and 
 beat one or two eggs well, dip the fry in by pieces, roll them in the 
 breadcrumbs, and slightly beat with a knife, to make the bread- 
 crumbs adhere to the fry ; have some fat or lard very hot, though 
 not burning, ready in a frying-pan, in which place your fry for three 
 or four minutes, when nicely coloured take off, and dish very hot on 
 a napkin; serve with either fried parsley or chervel, free from 
 water, which have ready in a wire colander ; dip the colander in 
 the fat, which will fry the parsley in less than a minute. For lamb 
 fry devilled, rub over with mixture prior to using. See receipt 
 No. 70. This I consider a light dish for supper. 
 
 No. 27. — Mutton or Lamb Chops a la Turc. 
 
 Cut either thin, put on a dish, season with salt and pepper, mince 
 an onion ; pick out 20 leaves of parsley, add over a little oil, rub 
 the chop in it well, let them soak in it two hours ; plain broil 
 sharply, and serve. This is an imitation of the Turkish kybob. 
 
 No. 28. — Lobster Curry. 
 
 Make about a pint of curry sauce, No. 9, take the flesh of a 
 middle-sized lobster, which cut in neat slices, let them simmer for 
 ten minutes in the sauce ; serve on a dish, on toast, or in the shell, 
 or bordered by rice. Boiled as No. 8 in Hospital Receipts. 
 
 No. 29. — Lobster Curry in the Shell. 
 
 Add one or two raw yolks of eggs to the above receipt while 
 boiling hot, mix quickly ; when the eggs are set, put the meat back 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 541 
 
 in the shells, cover the surface with bread crumbs, a few small pieces 
 of butter on each ; put in the oven ; when nicely browned, serve. 
 By extracting the meat from the body, tail, and claws, without 
 breaking the shells, they can be filled again with the preparation, 
 and put together as a whole lobster; or split the lobster lengthways 
 and serve in two halves. 
 
 Scalloped Lobstek. 
 
 Put in scallop in lieu of shell. Proceed the same. 
 
 No. 30. — Lobster au Gratin for those who do not 
 like Curry. 
 
 Chop a middling-sized onion, and put it in a stewpan with 2oz. 
 of butter ; fry of a light brown, add a small tablespoonful of hour, 
 stir together, pour over half a pint of milk, season with half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper, and an eighth of cayenne, a 
 little sugar, nutmeg, and chopped parsley ; boil a few minutes, till 
 rather thick, add the lobster meat, give a boil, add the yolk of an 
 egg, mix quick, fill the shells — egg and bread-crumb, put in an 
 oven for ten minutes, brown on the top with a hot salamander or 
 shovel, and serve. 
 
 No. 31. — Lobster Cutlets* 
 
 Cut a lobster in dice, letting the flesh weigh about half a pound 
 when done, put in a pan 2oz. of butter, 2 teaspoonfuls of chopped 
 onions ; put all on the fire, fry for a minute or two, add 1 teaspoon- 
 ful of flour ; mix well, stir in for a minute ; add half a pint of milk ; 
 season with salt, pepper, and one saltspoonful of cayenne, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of chopped parsley; let all boil for a minute or two, stirring 
 all the time ; add in your lobster, give it a boil ; add two yolks of 
 eggs ; mix quick, put on a dish to cool. When quite cool and firm, 
 divide in six parts, giving each the shape of a small cutlet ; egg and 
 breadcrumb twice. Put a piece of the very small claw to the end of 
 each cutlet, so as to form a bone; fry for a few minutes, like you would 
 a sole, in plenty of fat ; lay on a cloth, and serve on a napkin, with 
 plenty of fried parsley ; you may adopt any shape you choose, if 
 cutlets are too troublesome, as you would a croquette. No sauce is 
 requisite. 
 
 The lobsters for the two preceding receipts may be prepared, 
 shaped, and bread-crumbed hours before wanted. 
 
 No. 32. — Crabs au Gratin in the Shell. 
 
 Have the crab prepared as for plain, lay in the empty shell a layer 
 of the soft part, then a layer of American crackers or biscuit, grated, 
 then add the fleshy part of the crab over, on which pour a table- 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, cover it with slices of cold, hard 
 eggs, cut crosswise ; season with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne ; 
 cover all with the remainder of the soft part of the crab, make it 
 even with a knife; egg, and breadcrumb over, or more grated biscuit; 
 
542 
 
 BILL OP PARE POP LONDON STJPPEES. 
 
 put a few nuts of butter on the top, set in an oven for twenty 
 minutes or half an hour, and serve very hot. 
 
 No. 33. — Stewed Oystees on Toast. 
 
 Open a dozen of oysters, put them in a small stew-pan, add to 
 them two grains of black pepper, a little salt, butter, cayenne, and 
 sugar ; set on the stove for a few minutes until set — say three or 
 four minutes ; having only given them a slight boil, put in a piece 
 of butter as big as a walnut, which you have mixed with half a 
 teaspoonful of flour, shake the stew-pan round by the handle, to 
 melt the contents, put it back on the fire just to simmer, and serve 
 on toast. A drop of cream is an improvement. If not enough liquor 
 add a drop of milk. 
 
 Over-stewed oysters are as bad as over-cooked kidneys. For a 
 large quantity, proceed the same. The only thing to be observed 
 is, that the oysters are properly set before serving, they being 
 neither raw nor overdone. 
 
 No. 34. — Oystees stewed Ameeican Fashion. 
 
 Take a dozen large oysters in their liquor, bring them to a boil, 
 add salt, pepper, and a piece of butter about the size of a nutmeg, 
 and half a teaspoonful of chopped chervil, and serve with cracker 
 biscuits. 
 
 No. 35. — Feied Oystees, New Yoek Way. 
 
 Take 12 large raw oysters, dip them in Indian meal, throw them 
 into the hot fat immediately, like you would fried fish, and serve as 
 soon as browned. 
 
 No. 36. — Oystee Soup, New Yoek Way, foe a Paety 
 of Five Peesons. 
 
 Take 50 oysters and the liquor, place them in a pan with salt, 
 ca} r enne pepper, and a teaspoonful of chopped chervil ; when boiling, 
 add a liason (or thickening) of 5 yolks of eggs, with a piece of butter 
 the size of an egg, and serve. 
 
 Should the oysters not give liquor sufficient, add water and salt, 
 if necessary. One-fourth of this quantity may, of course, be made. 
 
 No. 37. — Game foe Suppee. 
 
 In spite of the petite soupers de la Kegence, in the early part of 
 the reign of Louis XV., when the gastronomic art was nightly 
 unfolding its luxurious delicacies before the illustrious guests of the 
 Court of France, game, dressed in numerous shapes, forming the 
 most succulent dishes, used to adorn the bills of fare of those noc- 
 turnal bacchanalian repasts which had almost triumphed over the 
 daily festive board, the dinners then at Court being only a secon- 
 dary consideration when compared with the suppers. For my part, 
 I much prefer the former, which, as I have already mentioned, forms 
 
BILL OP PARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 543 
 
 the focus of sociability ; but when you are compelled to sup late, 
 why not partake of game, which is much lighter food than solid 
 meat, overdone kidneys, or oysters ; for what can be more relishing 
 and palatable for supper than the remains of either pheasant, grouse, 
 partridge, &c., devilled or plain broiled, while plain roast game is 
 also highly recommendable for such meals. 
 
 No. 38. — Soyer’s Grouse and Black Game Salad. 
 
 This dish is also very commendable and relishing. Boast a young 
 grouse, not overdone ; when cold, cut in eight pieces ; put in a salad 
 bowl enough salad for two persons, lay the pieces of grouse over 
 with 2 or 4 hard eggs cut lengthwise ; make the sauce thin, put in 
 a basin a tablespoonful of finely- chopped shalot, 1 ditto of parsley, 
 ditto of pounded white sugar, the yolks of 2 raw eggs, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, quarter one of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili 
 vinegar, 4 of oil ; mix all together with a spoon, whip half a pint 
 of cream, which add carefully to your mixture ; it will then consti- 
 tute a delicious salad sauce ; pour over your salad, and mix carefully. 
 Pheasants and partridges, when properly kept, are also very good. 
 
 No. 39. — Lobster Salad, for two persons. 
 
 Take a middle-sized lobster, break the claw carefully, extract the 
 tail without splitting it, cut your lobster in fine, though large, slices, 
 crosswise, put some salad in a bowl in proportion for two, either coss 
 or cabbage lettuce, or endive, or mixed salad, have boiled 3 or 4 hard 
 eggs, cut crosswise when cold, then form a crown on your salad by 
 intermixing alternate layers of egg and lobster, placing the soft part 
 of the interior of the fish in the centre. Cucumber and beet-root may 
 be used instead of eggs. Then put into a basin a small teaspoonful 
 of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 of oil, 
 a little sugar, stir well together, pour over your salad, which mix 
 gently with a spoon and fork, and serve ; the addition of chopped 
 parsley, tarragon, and chervil, or chopped shalot, is an improvement. 
 
 No. 40. — Crab Salad, with Eggs. 
 
 Place the soft part of the crab in a bowl, having made it into a 
 pulp ; add to it the quantum of oil, vinegar, salt, pepper ; mix all 
 well together, as above. If too thick, add half a gill of milk, to 
 form a thinnish sauce ; put your salad in a bowl according to pro- 
 portion, over which put lightly the meat of the crab ; pour your 
 sauce over, having cut four eggs lengthwise in quarters ; toss it 
 well, stir round, and serve as above. 
 
 No. 41 . — New Salad, Tartar Fashion. 
 
 Prepare your salad, well washed and dried; (cabbage or coss 
 lettuce are preferable) ; boil 4 onions ; when cold cut in thick slices ; 
 cut also 4 pickled cucumbers, Israelite fashion, put a layer of the 
 
544 
 
 BILL OB BABE BOB LONDON SUPPEBS. 
 
 \ 
 
 salad at the bottom, then a bed of cucumber and onion, and another 
 of salad, at the top ; have 2 mild salt herrings, ready broiled, with all 
 the bones extracted ; cut it in small square pieces, season with salt, 
 pepper, vinegar, and oil, in proportion, tossing all well together, as 
 this plan is preferable to using a spoon and fork. 
 
 No. 42. — Plain Salad, with Anchovies. 
 
 Put your salad in a bowl, wash and shake as above ; wash and 
 scrape a dozen of anchovies ; bone them by splitting them up ; have 
 2 hard eggs, chopped line; put them over the salad; chop about 
 2oz. of either piccalilli, pickle, or plain gherkin. The above is for 
 four persons ; then add salad enough for that number; season with 
 a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter that of pepper, 4 tablespoons of oil,. 
 2 of vinegar ; stir well, but lightly, and serve. Coss and cabbago 
 lettuce are preferable. Any one who does not object to oil, 5 table* 
 spoonfuls may be used to 2 of the best French vinegar. For mixed 
 salads proceed the same. Anchovies, eggs, and gherkins may be 
 omitted, and yet will make an excellent salad. 
 
 No. 43. — Endive Salad. 
 
 Highly appreciated by French gourmets. 
 
 Wash quickly four heads of very white endive. The French is 
 much preferable to the English, and is imported in abundance to 
 the London markets. Why they should be washed quickly is, that 
 if they remain in the water any length of time they become as bitter 
 as gall. Take off the green leaves, if any ; cut the stem off and the 
 leaf in two when too long, shake well in a cloth to dry, and put in your 
 salad bowl, which you have previously rubbed with a piece of garlic ; 
 add in your salad, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter one of pepper, 5 table- 
 spoonfuls of oil, 2 of vinegar ; rub a piece of garlic on two crusts of 
 bread, each about the size of a walnut ; add them to your salad, which 
 you stir well for a few minutes with a spoon and fork, and serve. 
 The garlic in this salad, far from being objectionable, gives only a 
 slight flavour, to which no one can object, but which, on the contrary, 
 is highly appreciated by the gourmet. Garlic may be either increased 
 or diminished according to taste. 
 
 No. 44. — Omelettes with Fine Heebs. 
 
 Six eggs will make a nice omelette for two persons for supper ; 
 add a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, break them carefully 
 in a basin, as a tainted egg will spoil all the rest ; add three-quarters 
 of a tablespoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, two of chopped 
 parsley, half a one of fine chopped onions ; beat them well ; add 2oz. 
 of butter in a nice clean and dry frying-pan, place it then on the 
 fire, and when the butter is very hot then pour in your eggs, which 
 keep mixing quick with a spoon until all is delicately set, then let 
 it slip to the edge of the pan, en masse, laying hold of the handle,. 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 545 
 
 raising it slantwise, which will give an elongated form to the 
 omelette ; turning the edges, let it set a minute, turn on a dish, and 
 serve. 
 
 No. 45 . — Omelettes with Mushrooms. 
 
 Add in a couple of middling-sized mushrooms, cut very thin, and 
 proceed as above. 
 
 No. 46. — For Bacon and Ham Omelettes 
 
 Cut 2oz. of either in small dice, not too salt, fry two or three 
 minutes in the butter before putting in the eggs, — and proceed as 
 above. 
 
 No. 47. — Omelettes with Sprue Grass. 
 
 Cut the sprue half an inch in length, plain boil them in salt and 
 water till done, add two tablespoonfuls to your eggs,-— and proceed 
 as above. 
 
 No. 48. — Omelettes with Parmesan. 
 
 For Parmesan omelettes, put into your eggs two tablespoonfuls of 
 grated Parmesan cheese — Gruyere or any good dry English cheese 
 will do as well. 
 
 No. 49. — Poached Eggs with Cream. 
 
 Put in a small pan a pint of water, a teaspoonful of salt, four of 
 vinegar ; when boiling break carefully in the pan two, three, or four 
 nice fresh eggs, simmer for four or five minutes, or till properly set 
 firm, but not hard ; serve either on toast or on a plain dish. Put 
 in a small stewpan half a gill of cream, a little salt, pepper, and 
 sugar ; when the cream is on the boil add an ounce of fresh butter, 
 take off the stewpan, toss it round till the butter is melted, pour 
 over and serve. Fried ham and bacon may be laid on toast, poached 
 eggs placed over, and served plain. None other but fresh eggs will 
 poach ; the quality may be ascertained by holding them up to the 
 candle ; if the shell is spotted, they are useless for poaching, though 
 of use for other purposes. 
 
 No. 50.— Poached Eggs with Maitre d’Hotel Butter. 
 
 Put two ounces of maitre d’hotel butter in a hot stewpan, and stir 
 round till melted ; pour over your eggs which you have placed on 
 toast. 
 
 No. 51. — Poached Eggs, Semi-curried, with Ham or 
 
 Bacon. 
 
 Proceed as No. 56, pouring a gill of curry sauce over. 
 
 N N 
 
546 
 
 BILL OF FABE FOB LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 No. 52 . — Battered Eggs with Mushrooms. 
 
 Put in a stewpan 2oz. of butter, break over four fresh eggs, add 
 a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 quarter that of pepper. Set on the fire, and stir continually with a 
 wooden spoon till it forms a thickish consistency ; have buttered toast 
 on a plate, pour your eggs over, and serve. 
 
 No. 53. — Battered Eggs with Sprue Grass. 
 
 Add 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled sprue grass (as No. 47), and proceed 
 as above. 
 
 No. 54. — Ham with Shalots, Parsley, and Chervil. 
 
 Cut in small dice 1 oz. of clean cooked ham, put in your eggs, and 
 cook as above. A spoonful of either shalot, parsley, or chervil will 
 vary this dish. 
 
 No. 55.— Mirrored Eggs. 
 
 Put 1 oz. of butter into a small tin pan, spreading it all over, in 
 it crack 4 eggs without breaking the yolk if possible, season over 
 with salt and pepper, and small nuts of butter here and there ; put 
 in an oven before the fire till set, and serve. 
 
 No. 56. — Eggs au Miroir, with Ham or Bacon. 
 
 Cut the ham or bacon in thin slices, fry a few minutes in a pan, 
 put on your plate, break your eggs over, set in oven till set, and 
 serve, and proceed as above. The ham may be cut in thicker slices 
 if preferred, but will take rather longer cooking. 
 
 No. 57. — Eggs with Chopped Ham or Tongue. 
 
 Cut 2oz. of dressed ham in small dice, butter the bottom of the 
 plate or dish, and place the ham upon it ; break the eggs over, 
 season, and proceed as before. 
 
 No. 58. — Eggs and Mushrooms. 
 
 Wash, peel, and slice a few mushrooms, butter the dish thickly, 
 spread the mushrooms over, season with salt and pepper, and set the 
 dish in the oven till the mushrooms are done ; break the eggs over 
 and proceed as before. 
 
 No. 59. — Eggs and Truffles. 
 
 Wash, peel, and cut in very thin slices, a fresh truffle, butter the 
 dish, add a tablespoonful of sherry; salt and pepper; lay the slices 
 of truffles flat over the bottom of the dish, and put it in the oven 
 a few minutes ; when boiled a minute or two, break the eggs over 
 and cook as usual. English truffles are excellent for this purpose. 
 
BILL OB BABE BOB LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 547 
 
 No. 60. — Eggs with Sprue Grass. 
 
 Boil about a quarter of a pint of sprue grass ; butter the dish as 
 usual, spread the grass over, season with a little powdered sugar, salt, 
 nnd pepper ; break the eggs over, place in the oven, and proceed as 
 before. 
 
 No. 61. — Eggs a la Bonne Femme. 
 
 Cut a middle-sized onion in dice, put it in a stewpan with a pat of 
 butter, and fry of a light brown ; when done add a teaspoonful of 
 vinegar ; butter the dish lightly, spread the onions over, season with 
 pepper and salt, and break the eggs over ; put in the oven ; when 
 done mask the eggs with fried bread-crumbs, and serve. 
 
 No. 62. — Curried Eggs. 
 
 Boil three eggs for ten minutes, put them in cold water; when 
 oold, shell, cut them in two lengthwise, and throw them into a 
 •curry sauce, give them a boil, dish them on the flat side in the form 
 of a star ; this will make a very good and pretty dish. Eggs boiled 
 too hard are very unwholesome, especially for supper ; done this way 
 they will be perfect ; they may be put entire in the sauce, and cut 
 when dished up; they will take the flavour of the curry just the 
 same. 
 
 No. 63.-— Eggs a la Tripe, or Onion Sauce. 
 
 Boil 3 eggs as above, cut them in slices, and put in a sauce 
 you have prepared thus : — 
 
 Cut 2 middle-sized onions in slices, put them in a stewpan with 
 an ounce of butter, and fry them till done without taking colour ; 
 add a small tablespoonful of flour, and moisten with a teacupful of 
 milk : season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, give a boil, toss the 
 eggs up in the sauce, and serve. The same may be served with 
 tomato sauce. 
 
 No. 64 — Eggs with Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Proceed as for curried eggs, using tomato sauce instead of curry. 
 
 No. 65. — Kareeit a la Soyer, with Sherry or Champagne. 
 
 Cut half a pound of rich cheese in small dice ; put in a stewpan 2 
 pats of butter with a teaspoonful of mixed Durham mustard, a little salt, 
 half a teaspoonful of pepper, one wineglass of sherry or champagne ; 
 put on a slow fire, stir gently with a wooden spoon till properly 
 melted, though not stringy, which might occur if turned too quickly ; 
 have a nice toast half an inch thick done at the last minute, pour 
 your cheese over and serve. Leaving it a few minutes in an oven is 
 an improvement. 
 
 No. 66. — Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Fried potatoes being much lighter for supper than baked ones, 
 would be an excellent introduction to the London supper bill of fare, 
 
 N N 2 
 
548 
 
 BILL OB PALE POE LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 I shall also observe that a potato when well fried does not retain a 
 particle of grease, and therefore is not rich, or likely to he so, when 
 properly done. Where a quantity are required, put in a wide stew-pan 
 three or four pounds of either lard, beef, or mutton fat ; — see receipt 
 No. 20, page 544, how to clarify the two last. Set it upon the fire, and 
 while heating, peel a pound of potatoes about the size of a large egg, 
 cut them in thin slices crosswise upon a clean cloth, to absorb the 
 moisture, taking care they are well separated ; when the fat is hot, 
 “ but not burning,” which you will ascertain by its giving out a 
 light smoke, or else dip your finger in cold water and let a drop fall 
 in the fat— if it hisses it is then at a proper heat ; throw in the 
 potatoes, and keep moving them with a skimmer to prevent them 
 sticking together ; in about three or four minutes they will he cooked 
 and well fried, of a pale gold colour ; take them out upon a cloth, 
 sieve, or colander; sprinkle scientifically with salt, and serve plain, 
 or upon a napkin, or round a steak, fillet of beef, &c. 
 
 No. 67. — Fried Potatoes with Maitre d’Hotel Butter. 
 
 While in the colander, and just having been fried, add to a 
 portion of potatoes about half an ounce of maitre d’hotel butter, 
 toast till melted, and serve either plain or round steak. 
 
 No. 68. — Fried Potatoes with Cayenne Pepper. 
 
 When just done throw half a saltspoonful of cayenne over them, 
 toast them, and serve. 
 
 No. 69. — Chipped or Bibboned Potatoes. 
 
 Cut some potatoes crosswise about the thickness of an inch, then 
 peel them thinly in ribbons, fry as above — they will require a little 
 longer doing ; when they are crisp take them out, place them on a 
 clean cloth, and sprinkle them over with salt, cayenne, and black 
 pepper to fancy, and serve. 
 
 No. 70.— Soyer’s Universal Devil Mixture, 
 
 Which will be found applicable to all devilled food. 
 
 To devil the same, rub each piece over with the following mixture, 
 having made a deep incision in any article of food that may be sub- 
 jected to this Mephistophelean process. Put in a bowl a good table- 
 spoonful of Durham mustard, which mix with four tablespoonfuls 
 of Chili vinegar ; add to it a tablespoonful of grated horseradish, two 
 bruised shalots, a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of ca} r enne, ditto 
 of black pepper, and one of pounded sugar, two teaspoonfuls of 
 chopped chillies, if handy ; add the yolks of two raw eggs ; take a 
 paste-brush, and after having slightly seasoned each piece with salt, 
 rub over each piece with the same, probing some in the incisions. 
 First broil slowly, and then the last few minutes as near as possible 
 the Pandemonium fire. The yolks may be omitted. 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 549 
 
 No. 71. — A Plainer Way for the Million. 
 
 Mix the mustard with plain vinegar; add one half more caj^enne; 
 use the same quantity of salt, pepper, and sugar ; use onions instead 
 of shalots. The liquor of pickles is even preferable to vinegar. 
 
 Proceed as above for grilling ; remains of meat, game, and poultry 
 are very relishing when done as above, especially for an early 
 luncheon or a late supper. 
 
 No. 72. — Chicken, American Fashion. 
 
 Have a small fowl ready for grilling, season with salt, pepper, and 
 a little cayanne ; beat an egg well, rub it over ; mix some American 
 grated crackers with maize, roll it in and beat it with a knife to make 
 it adhere to the chicken ; put it on a gridiron, and when hot through 
 put small nuts of butter here and there; broil to a very nice colour 
 and serve 2 doz. stewed oysters, as No. 33, on toast, which place 
 under the fowl. Any sharp sauce instead of oysters will do for this 
 dish. 
 
 No. 73. — Herring a la Eob Eoy. 
 
 Well wash and clean a red herring, wipe it dry and place it in a 
 pie-dish, having cut off the head, and split it in two up the back ; 
 put a gill or two of whiskey over the herring, according to size, hold 
 it on one side of the dish, so that it is covered with the spirit, set it 
 alight, and when the flame goes out the fish is done. 
 
 No. 74. — Cold Asparagus Salad, while in Season. 
 
 A very refreshing and delicious dish for supper. 
 
 When this vegetable is in season, put in a soup plate a table- 
 spoonful of vinegar, two of oil, quarter teaspoonful of salt, half 
 that of pepper, mix together, a little chopped parsley may be intro- 
 duced, and dip each head of cold grass as you eat them in the mixture. 
 
 No. 75. — New Potato Salad, German Fashion. 
 
 Boil some rather waxy potatoes, peel when just done, cut in 
 slices, put them in a bowl, add to every pound one tablespoonful of 
 vinegar, two of oil, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper 
 toss up well, and eat it cold. Add a little chopped parsley. 
 
 No. 76. — New Potato Salad, French Haricot, and 
 Haricot Beans, 
 
 Have your vegetables properly cooked, and when cold put a pound 
 of French or the other beans in a bowl, season with salt, pepper, oil, 
 vinegar, as above, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley ; toss well, and 
 serve. The French beans only require to be boiled in a plain way. 
 The French haricots — put a pint in two quarts of cold water, add 
 one. ounce of butter, and boil very gently for two hours, or till tender, 
 let it get cold and make your salad. For lentils proceed the same as 
 haricots. 
 
550 
 
 BILL OF FAllE FOE LONDON SUPPLES. 
 
 No. 77. — Bouillabaisse Anglicised. 
 
 The fish I would recommend in England for that far-famed disli 
 would he red mullet, whiting, and barbie, or a small turbot, all cut 
 up crosswise, in pieces of about two ounces to a quarter of a pound 
 each ; slice up two large onions, place them in a good-sized stew- 
 pan, large enough to contain your fish all at the bottom — a fiat wide 
 pan is preferable. Add to this two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and 
 fry the onions of a pale brown colour ; next place the pieces of fish 
 in the pan, cover them with warm water, only just to the depth of 
 the contents. To each pound of fish, sprinkle about half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, or a little more, a quarter that quantity of pepper, half a 
 bay leaf, the flesh of half a lemon, without pips or rind, cut in dice; 
 cut also two tomatos in dice, having extracted the seed, add a 
 glass or two of sherry or light wine, a few peppercorns, and half a 
 clove of garlic, instead of four, as done at Marseilles, as mentioned 
 at page 61 ; set on a fierce fire, and boil very fast from ten to twelve 
 minutes. By this time the liquor should be reduced to a third of its 
 original quantity; add a small portion of saffron, according to taste, 
 a tablespoonful of fresh chopped parsley; allow all to boil one 
 minute longer, and remove from the fire, for it is then ready for 
 dishing up. (Eor which process see page 61.) 
 
 Second-class Bouillabaisse. — Use gurnet, plaice, soles, &c. 
 Bouillabaisse may be made also of fresh-water fish, such as perch, 
 tench, trout, and pike, proceeding precisely as above ; if the broth 
 is required for an invalid, omit the wine and some of the seasoning, 
 according to the order of the doctor. 
 
 No. 78. — Soyer’s Crimean Cup a la Wyndham. 
 
 Thinly peel the rind of half an orange, put it into a bowl 'with a, 
 tablespoon ful of crushed sugar, and macerate with the ladle for a 
 minute ; then add one large wine-glass of Maraschino, half one of 
 Cognac, half one of Curagoa. Mix well together, pour in two bottles 
 of soda-water, and one of champagne, during which time work it up 
 and down with the punch ladle, and it is ready. 
 
 Half a pound of Wenham Lake ice, if to be procured, is a great 
 improvement. 
 
 No. 79. — Soyer’s Balaklava Nectar, 
 
 Thinly peel the rind of half a lemon, shred it fine, and put it in a 
 punch-bowl; add 2 tablespoonfuls of crushed sugar and the juice of 
 2 lemons, the half of a small cucumber sliced thin with the peel on ; 
 toss it up several times, then add 2 bottles of soda-water, 2 of claret, 
 1 of champagne, stir well together and serve. 
 
 No. 80. — Pierce’s Claret and Champagne Cup a la Brunow. 
 
 This gentleman, whose excellent and useful book I have quoted 
 in the body of this work, has favoured me with the following claret 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS SAUCES. 551 
 
 and champagne cup, which ought, from its excellency, to he called the 
 nectar of the Czar, as it is so highly appreciated in Russia, where for 
 many years it has enjoyed a high reputation amongst the aristocracy 
 of the Muscovite empire. 
 
 To three bottles of claret, take two-thirds of a pint of Cura^oa, one 
 pint of sherry, half ditto of brandy, two wine-glasses of ratafia, three 
 oranges, and one lemon, cut in slices ; some sprigs of green balm, 
 ditto of borage, a small piece of rind of cucumber, two bottles of 
 German Seltzer- water, three ditto of soda-water ; stir this together, 
 and sweeten with capillaire or pounded sugar until it ferments, let 
 it stand one hour, strain it, and ice it well ; it is then fit for use. 
 
 The same for Champagne Cup. — Champagne instead of claret; 
 noyeau instead of ratafia. 
 
 This quantity is for an evening party of forty persons. For a 
 smaller number reduce the proportions. 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 1. — Melted Butter. 
 
 Put 2oz. of butter in a stew-pan holding about a quart, and 2oz. 
 of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper ; mix 
 together with a spoon till forming a thick paste, add a pint of cold 
 water, place all on a fire, stir continually ; take the pan off the fire 
 when it simmers; add another of fresh butter in it, stir till melted; 
 it is then ready for use. A little grated nutmeg and a drop of 
 vinegar is an improvement. This sauce being the base of so many 
 others, requires attention in making, and as flour will sometimes be 
 stronger than at others, and likely to make it too thin or too thick, 
 take for a rule that the proper thickness when done ought to form a 
 transparent coating over the back of the spoon. 
 
 2. — Beurre a la Maitre d’Hotel, or Hotel Keeper’s 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of 
 a spoonful of salt, ditto of pepper, two of chopped parsley, the juice 
 of a middle-sized lemon (if no lemon, use vinegar), and a little grated 
 nutmeg ; mix well together, and keep in a cool place till required. 
 This is excellent with kidneys and all broiled meats. Hutmeg may 
 be omitted. 
 
 3. — Anchovy Butter, or Beurre d’Anchoix. 
 
 Take 6 anchovies from a bottle, scrape and wash them, pound and 
 pulp them, or bruise them on a board ; mix 6oz. of fresh butter, 
 pass through a sieve, and use when required. Keep the sauce in a 
 cold place. 
 
552 BILL OP PARE POR LONDON SUPPERS SAUCES. 
 
 4. — Chervil and Tarragon Butter. 
 
 To 2oz. of butter add a teaspoonful of chopped chervil and 
 tarragon ; add salt, pepper, a little cayenne, 1 tablespoonful of tarra- 
 gon vinegar, or the j uice of half a lemon. 
 
 5. — Pimento, or Chili Butter. 
 
 For 2oz. of butter put a teaspoonful of chilies chopped fine, 1 of 
 parsley, a scrape of garlic as large as a pea ; add to it half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon ; mix well. 
 
 6. — Shalot Butter. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of butter and a teaspoonful of chopped 
 shalot in a dish, a little cayenne, salt, pepper, half a teaspoonful of 
 mustard, the juice of a lemon ; mix together. 
 
 7. — Black Butter, or Beurre Noir. 
 
 Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan, set it on the fire till it acquires 
 a brownish colour, throw in about 20 parsley leaves, 2 tablespoon fuls 
 of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of pepper ; boil toge- 
 ther one minute. It is also excellent with boiled mackerel and skate. 
 
 8. — Onion Sauce, or Sauce a la Tripe. 
 
 Peel and cut 6 onions in slices, put them in a stewpan with 2oz. 
 of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, half one of pepper ; 
 place on a slow fire to simmer till in pulp, stirring now and then, to 
 prevent getting brown ; add a tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, 
 and boil till of a proper thickness. This sauce should be a little 
 thicker than melted butter. 
 
 9. — Curry Sauce. 
 
 Peel and cut 2 middling-sized onions in slices, 1 apple, cut in dice, 
 and an ounce of bacon ; put them in a stewpan with two ounces 
 of butter ; put it on the fire and fry gently for five or six minutes ; 
 add 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 of curry powder, moisten with a pint 
 and a half of milk, add half a teaspoonful of salt, and 1 of sugar ; boil 
 till rather thick ; pass through a sieve, and serve with any article 
 requiring curry sauce. 
 
 10. — Bread Sauce. 
 
 Put in a stewpan 4 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, a quarter of 
 one of salt, an eighth of pepper, 6 pepper corns ; peel a small onion, 
 cut it in four, add it to the crumbs, with half a pint of milk and 
 half an ounce of butter. Boil for ten minutes, and you will have an 
 excellent sauce. Add more milk if requisite. 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS — SAUCES. 553 
 
 11. — Maitke d’hotel Sauce. 
 
 Mix 2oz. of maitre d’hotel butter to half a pint of hot melted 
 butter sauce, and shake, and when the butter is melted it is ready. 
 
 12. — Relishing Sauce, 
 
 For broiled bones, fowls, meat, fish, &c. &c. 
 
 Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with 1 of 
 Chili vinegar, 1 of common vinegar, 3 of water, 2 of mushroom 
 ketchup, 2 of Harvey’s sauce, 1 of anchovies; add to it a pint of 
 melted butter, as receipt No. 1 ; let it simmer until it adheres to 
 the back of the spoon ; add half a teaspoonful of sugar ; it is then 
 ready for use. The many ingredients found in this are always to 
 be obtained in every tavern. 
 
 13. — Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Cut in dice 2oz. of lean ham or bacon, put either in a stewpan, 
 with 2oz. of butter, a sliced onion, a few sprigs of parsley, 4 
 peppercorns, and 1 bay-leaf ; fry on the fire till getting slightly 
 brown ; add in then about 21b. of fresh tomatoes, cut across, lightly 
 extract the seed : let them stew about fifteen minutes, or till in pulp; 
 add to it 2 tablespoonfuls of flour ; mix well ; then about a pint of 
 broth or milk, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter that of pepper, one 
 of sugar, a sprinkle of cayenne, boil all ten minutes ; pass through 
 a sieve or colander; put them back again in the stewpan; give 
 another boil, it is then ready for use when required. A tablespoonful 
 of ketchup may be added ; also a piece of glaze, if handy. 
 
 14. — Semi-Sultana. 
 
 Add 3 tablespoonfuls to 1 pint of thin melted butter ; boil a few 
 minutes ; it is then ready. 
 
 15. — Piccalilly Sauce. 
 
 Cut in slices, or in small dice, 2oz. of mixed pickles, called 
 piccalilly, add it to half a pint melted butter, w r ith 2 tablespoonfuls 
 of liqueur, and use when required. 
 
 16. — Browning foe Sauces. 
 
 Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, and melt 
 it over a moderate fire for about twenty-five minutes, stirring it con- 
 tinually, until quite black, but it must become so by degrees, or too 
 sudden a heat will make it bitter, then add two quarts of 'water, and 
 in ten minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use. 
 
 17. — New Mayonnaise Sauce, 
 
 Put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic or savoury jelly upon ice 
 in a stew-pan, which keep whisking until becoming a white froth, 
 then add half a pint of salad oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, 
 by degrees — first oil and then vinegar, continually whisking until it 
 forms a white smooth sauce, to all appearance like a cream ; season 
 
554 BILL OF FAKE FOR LONDON SUPPERS SAUCES. 
 
 with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little 
 sugar; whisk it a little more, and it is ready to serve; it is usually 
 dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with. The ad- 
 vantage of this sauce (which is more delicate than any other) is, that 
 you may dress it to any height you like, and it will remain so for a 
 long time ; if the temperature is not too hot, it will remain hours 
 without melting or appearing greasy. 
 
 No. 18 . — Mussulman Sauce. 
 
 Put in a pint stew-pan two yolks of eggs, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, a quarter teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, the juice 
 of a middling-sized lemon ; put on a slow fire, and stir round quickly 
 till the whole forms a thick rich sauce; it is then ready for using. 
 This must be done extremely quick, else it will turn to oil ; two 
 minutes will do it. If too thick, add a drop of milk. 
 
 19. — Tomatoes, American Way. 
 
 Cut the tomatoes in two, leaving the seeds and juice in; cut a 
 middling-sized onion in dice, pass it in butter till slightly browned ; 
 add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and suffi- 
 cient bread-crumbs to thicken them ; stew gently for twenty minutes, 
 and serve with roast meat or poultry. 
 
 JBread Crumbs . — Take a piece of the crumb of a stale loaf, not 
 too hard, put it in a cloth, bruise it with your hand well, till it falls 
 in crumbs ; pass it through either a wire sieve or colander, and use 
 when required. 
 
 20. — How to melt Pat. 
 
 Take 3 or 41bs. of either beef or mutton suet, cut in small dice ; 
 put in a stewpan, with half a pint of water; place on the fire to 
 melt, stirring now and then ; when the suet turns to a light yellow 
 colour, pour it through a colander, which you have already placed 
 in a basin, press the suet with the back of a spoon to extract the oil 
 of the fat; it is then ready for use, and will keep a long time with- 
 out spoiling ; you may fry many times with the same. 
 
 21. — Chopping of Herbs, Parsley, Chervil, &c. 
 
 This may appear a very simple thing to do well, yet it is often 
 done badly, by which the flavour is lost. The herbs should be well 
 washed and dried, and then the leaves taken in the left hand, press- 
 ing upon them with your fingers, and chop as fine as possible, not 
 by placing the point of the knife on the board, and raising it and 
 letting it fall, but with a good sharp cut, so that they are cut, not 
 pressed. Onions should be peeled, and cut in halves lengthwise, and 
 then with a thin knife cut each half in slices, leaving them joined at 
 the root ; again cut into slices contrariwise, and then from top to 
 bottom ; thus having cut into very small squares, chop it with both 
 hands with the knife. You may also wash them. When half-chopped, 
 press them in a cloth, and chop them still finer, and use when re- 
 quired. Proceed the same for shalots. 
 
RECEIPTS FOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 Haying promised a friend, when first I commenced this work, that 
 I would insert in its pages a number of receipts for the poor, I 
 fulfil my obligation by re-publishing some receipts which I first 
 brought out in the year of the famine, 1847 ; and with all the inten- 
 tion I had of still further simplifying them I find their im- 
 provement an impossibility. I have, however, withdrawn some 
 receipts of dishes, which were only applicable to that period, and I 
 have at the same time introduced a few new ones, which I feel con- 
 fident will tend to the comfort of humble families. 
 
 In making the receipts Nos. 1 and 2 public, I did not suppose that 
 they would meet with the entire approbation of the nation, particularly 
 by those who imagine that nothing can be good except plenty of 
 animal food is used for the subsistence of man. I shall not enter 
 into a culinary digression to prove it, but I am so satisfied of the 
 failure of the quantity of nourishment generally obtained by those 
 who cannot make anything good, even with plenty, for want of 
 having the practical judgment, that I make bold to affirm, that the 
 little animal substance I recommend, if closely followed, will pro- 
 duce all the nourishment requisite when amalgamated in the way 
 described. 
 
 As regards the peelings and ends of vegetables which I use in my 
 receipts, it is a well-known fact, that the exterior of every vegetable, 
 roots in particular, contains more flavour than the interior of it; 
 which is my reason for recommending only the washing well of 
 those vegetables before they are cut for use, thereby increasing the 
 vegetable produce of the country, and using that which has hitherto 
 only increased the “ malaria ” of our courts and alleys by its 
 decomposition. 
 
 Having thus explained my reasons, I now give publicity to my 
 receipts for making soups and other dishes in this form ; which I 
 trust will prove useful to the benevolent and the whole laborious and 
 industrious population of the country, and produce economy in all 
 charitable institutions, and comfort in eveiy cottage. 
 
 Almost all the productions of nature can be made available, and 
 produce wholesome and nutritious food for man. The following is a 
 short list, taking them in rotation, according to the quantity of 
 nutriment they contain : — Beef, mutton, venison, pork, veal, lamb, 
 hare, rabbits, bacon, lard, dripping, butter, oil : of farinaceous sub - 
 
556 
 
 .RECEIPTS EOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 stances * Indian corn, wheat, rice, barley, rye, buck- wheat, oats, 
 peas, beans, lentils: of vegetables and roots — yams, potatoes, Jeru- 
 salem artichokes, parsnips, turnips, carrots, mangel wurzel, onions, 
 leeks, green peas, cauliflowers, celery, kelp, Irish moss, dillisk, 
 French beans, greens, spinach, sorrel, salads of all kinds : of condi- 
 ments — as salt, pepper, cayenne, curry, chilies, mustard, allspice, 
 mace, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, &c. : of herbs — savory, parsley, mint, 
 thyme, marjoram, basil, bay-leaf, and all sorts, both culinary and 
 medicinal, or their essences, all of which, when properly blended 
 with food, add to its nourishing qualities ; but the grand secret is, 
 to obtain from the above all the nutriment they possess, which is 
 done by following my receipts, and reducing the animal and vege- 
 table substances to a glaze, and mixing it with the farinaceous, and 
 thereby obtaining a palatable and agreeable food, and economizing 
 the productions of nature to an immense extent ; for, by the system 
 at present adopted, more than fifty per cent, of the animal and vegetable 
 productions are lost, and the nutriment from the farinaceous ingre- 
 dients is rendered less, in consequence of being unpalatable. In my 
 visits to the different charitable institutions of this city, I have been 
 surprised at the want of knowledge manifested in maldng of soups. 
 In some parishes, I found 100 pounds of meat, cut into pieces of a 
 quarter of a pound each, put into 100 gallons of water, at twelve 
 o’clock of one day, to be boiled until twelve o’clock the next day ; by 
 such proceedings the osmazome of the meat is lost by evaporation 
 from the boiler, and only the gelatine and fibrine is left ; the former 
 has been proved by a medical board, instituted at Paris, for the 
 purpose of inquiring into the subject, to contain no nutriment what- 
 ever, and the latter contains about the same as a piece of dry wood. 
 What would be said of a cook who would put a quarter of a pound 
 of meat, or even a piece weighing thirty pounds, to roast before a 
 large fire for twenty-four hours ? What nutriment would it contain 
 at the end of that period? My principle is easily illustrated by 
 putting twelve onions into a gallon of water, and boiling them for 
 as many hours ; no smell arises from it; but cut the half of one, and 
 fry it, and the perfume will be diffused over the whole house: thus 
 I extract the aroma of every ingredient which I employ, and any 
 one carefully following the receipts will produce a palatable and 
 nourishing food. 
 
 The old plan of soaking farinaceous ingredients is not bad, but in 
 many instances it cannot be practised, in which case I w r ould recom- 
 mend that peas be put into soft boiling water, f and that the ebulli- 
 tion does not cease until the peas are reduced to a pulp. Indian 
 meal must also be put into boiling water, and be well boiled for two 
 hours. Eice and barley may be put into cold water, and be boiled 
 until they can be easily mashed between the fingers ; the length of 
 
 * Indian corn contains 750 parts of starch, 205 gluten, 30 sugar, 
 15 tannin. Potatoes contain 200 parts of starch, 40 gluten, 20 sugar, 
 f If hard water is used, add soda. 
 
RECEIPTS FOR TITE NEEDY. 
 
 557 
 
 time depends upon their quality. — All kinds of food made of fari- 
 naceous ingredients, as Indian meal, peas, rice, &c., increase in 
 quantity when made the day previous, and require more water when 
 warmed up. 
 
 It will he perceived that I have omitted all kinds of spice except 
 in those dishes which are intended expressly for them, as I consider 
 they only flatter the appetite and irritate the stomach, and make it 
 crave for more food ; my object being not to create an appetite but 
 to satisfy it ; and when those dishes in which spice is introduced are 
 given to the poor, it should only be done by the advice of the medical 
 man ; but in those cases where they have been accustomed to have 
 them, they must be reduced by degrees until their taste is brought 
 round to that point most conducive to health. 
 
 No. 1 . — Foe Two Gallons. 
 
 Two ounces of dripping 
 
 Quarter of a pound of solid meat, at 4d. per lb. (cut 
 
 into dice one inch square) 
 
 Quarter pound of onions, sliced thin 
 
 Quarter pound of turnips ; the peel will do, or one 
 
 whole one cut into small dice 
 
 Two ounces of leeks ; the green tops will do, sliced 
 
 thin 
 
 Three ounces of celery 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of common flour 
 
 Half a pound of pure barley, or one pound of Scotch 
 
 Three ounces of salt 
 
 Quarter of an ounce of brown sugar 
 
 Fuel 
 
 Two gallons of water 
 
 0 | 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ) 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 ii 
 
 oi 
 
 o 
 
 6 
 
 I first put two ounces of dripping into a saucepan (capable of holding 
 two gallons of water), with a quarter of a pound of leg of beef with- 
 out bones, # cut into square pieces of about an inch ; and two mid- 
 dling-sized onions, peeled and sliced ; I then set the saucepan over 
 a coal fire, and stirred the contents round for a few minutes with a 
 wooden (or iron) spoon until fried lightly brown. I had then ready 
 washed the peeling of two turnips, fifteen green leaves or tops of 
 celery, and the green part of two leeks ; (the whole of which, I must 
 observe, are always thrown away.) Having cut the above vegetables 
 into small pieces, I threw them into the saucepan with the other 
 ingredients, stirring them occasionally over the fire for another ten 
 minutes ; then added one quart of cold water, and three quarters of 
 a pound of common flour, and half a pound of pearl barley, mixing 
 all well together ; I then added seven quarts of hot water, seasoned 
 
 * For the use of the bones, see Beceipt No. 9. 
 
558 
 
 RECEIPTS EOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 with three ounces of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown sugar, 
 stirred occasionally until boiling, and allowed it to simmer very gently 
 for three hours ; at the end of which time I found the barley per- 
 fectly tender. The above soup has been tasted by numerous noble- 
 men, members of parliament, and several ladies who have lately 
 visited my kitchen department, and who have considered it very 
 good and nourishing. 
 
 This soup will keep several days when made as above described ; 
 but I must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, but in rather a flat 
 vessel, where the air could act freely upon it. Stir it now and then, 
 until nearly cold : or otherwise the next day it will be in a state of 
 fermentation : this does not denote the weakness of the soup, because 
 the same evil exists with the very strongest of stock, or sauce, if not 
 stirred, or if confined in a warm place — (a fact known to every first- 
 rate cook). 
 
 The expenses make it come to three farthings per quart in London; 
 but, as almost everything can be had at less cost in the country, the 
 price of this soup will be still more reduced. In that case a little 
 additional meat might be used, and by giving away a small portion 
 of bread or biscuit, better support would be given to the poor at a 
 trifling cost, and no one, it is to be hoped, hereafter, would hear of 
 the dreadful calamity of starvation. 
 
 The same for one hundred gallons, to be made in the boilers, such 
 as are given by the different relief committees, or in any other vessel, 
 either iron or copper, in general use. 
 
 Twelve pounds of solid meat, at 4d. per lb., cut into 
 pieces one inch square, or sixteen pounds with 
 
 bones, at 3d. per lb 4 0 
 
 Three pounds two ounces of dripping 1 0 
 
 Twelve pounds of onions, sliced thin 0 8 
 
 Six pounds of leeks, ditto N 
 
 Six pounds of celery, ditto £ ~ .. 
 
 Eight pounds of turnips, washed only, and cut into ( 
 
 half an inch square ) 
 
 Thirty-seven pounds and a half of flour, seconds ... 7 0 
 
 Twenty-five pounds of pearl barley previously 
 
 soaked 6 9 
 
 Nine pounds of salt 0 3 
 
 One pound seven ounces of sugar ... ... 0 9 
 
 £118 
 
 Have ready a spatula, or a piece of board the shape of a cricket- 
 bat, about six inches wide, tapering towards the top as a handle 
 (which must be from one foot and a half to two feet above the 
 surface of the vessel), to stir with; take twelve pounds of solid 
 meat, or sixteen pounds with the bones (legs or clods of beef are 
 excellent for the purpose, but any kind of edible meat, from beef to 
 doe venison will do), cut in pieces about one inch square ; put the 
 
RECEIPTS EOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 559 
 
 dripping* in the boiler; light the fire; when the fat is melted, add 
 the onions : fry ten minutes, stirring it all the time ; add the vege- 
 tables and the meat; fry for twenty minutes, or until a thick glaze 
 is produced ; then add the salt and sugar, and four gallons of cold 
 water ; then add the flour ; keep stirring quickly, until quite smooth; 
 add the barley, and fill by degrees with hot water ;f boil for three 
 hours, or until the barley is quite tender, and serve. J 
 
 In case either the barley or rice does not produce the thickness 
 required (as those ingredients may differ in quality), then add, if 
 too thin, a few pounds of flour or oatmeal, previously mixed with 
 cold water, to make it in a liquid batter, and pour it in when 
 boiling about twenty minutes before serving it out. But the 
 proper thickness is easily ascertained when the soup hangs lightly 
 on the back of the spatula or ladle, and near the consistence of a 
 thin stirabout. 
 
 No. 2 . — For Two Gallons. 
 
 Quarter of a pound of beef, at 4d., cut into pieces of 
 
 one inch square 1 
 
 Two ounces of dripping, or melted suet OJ 
 
 Quarter of a pound of turnips or carrots, cut into dice 
 
 half an inch square 0} 
 
 Four drops of essences OJ 
 
 One and a half pound of maize flour 3 
 
 Three ounces of salt 
 
 Quarter ounce of brown sugar 
 
 One teaspoonful of black pepper, ground fine 
 
 Fuel 
 
 6 
 
 Take two ounces of either dripping, American lard, or suet, to 
 which add the turnips or carrots ; fry for ten minutes, add one 
 quart of cold water and the meal, well mixing, and moisten by 
 degrees with seven quarts of hot water ; boil for two hours, and 
 season with three ounces of salt, one quarter ounce of brown sugar, 
 one teaspoonful of black pepper, two drops of essence of garlic, one 
 drop of essence of mint, one drop of essence of celery ; stir quickly, 
 and serve directly. 
 
 Receipt No. 3. 
 
 No. 2 . 6 
 
 As No. 2 — and add one pound of potatoes 1 
 
 7 
 
 * If dripping cannot be had, use four pounds of fat. — See 
 Receipt No. 21. 
 
 f Hot water is the best to use, if convenient. 
 
 J If colour is required, add a quart of Receipt No. 21. 
 
560 
 
 RECEIPTS EOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 For those who have the chance of procuring a few potatoes 
 once a week, they may he used with advantage in the following 
 manner : — 
 
 Having prepared the soup according to Eeceipt Ho. 2, when 
 nearly done, wash a pound of potatoes, pick out the black spots, if 
 any, and cut them in very small dice ; put them into the soup to 
 boil for twenty minutes, or a little longer, until done, and the soup 
 is ready, and will strongly taste of potato ; the short time of ebulli- 
 tion preserving all the aroma of that inconstant root. 
 
 Having promised to make my receipts public, for the benefit of 
 the laborious classes of society, as well as for the poor, I think that 
 if a man could treat his family once a week with a food called 
 potato soup, each member of it, who had previously fed on that root, 
 and who are now nearly deprived of that food, would worship the 
 day of the week when such a luxury should be displayed on their 
 humble table. 
 
 Eeceipt Ho. 4. 
 
 Quarter of a pound of bacon ... • ... 
 
 One ounce of dripping 
 
 Quarter of a pound of onions 
 
 Quarter of a pound of turnips or carrots 
 Two ounces of leeks and celery 
 Quarter ounce of mint, shred fine 
 Pound and a quarter of yellow peas 
 
 Half-pound of common flour 
 
 Two ounces and a half of salt 
 
 Half ounce of sugar 
 
 n 
 
 Have a quarter of a pound of fat bacoi# cut into dice, peel and 
 slice two good-sized onions, or three small ones, and put both into a 
 stewpan, with one ounce of dripping; fry them gently until lightly 
 brown, then add two ounces of turnips, two ounces of carrots, and 
 one ounce of leeks, and one ounce of celery; cut them thin and 
 slanting (but, as I have before observed, any kind of vegetable will 
 answer the purpose, if the same proportion is used) ; fry for ten 
 minutes, and fill up with seven quarts of water, and, when boiling, 
 add a pound and a quarter of split peas, and let them simmer for 
 two or three hours, until reduced to a pulp, which depends on the 
 quality of the pea ; then add two ounces of salt, half an ounce of 
 sugar, quarter of an ounce of mint, mix one half pound of flour in 
 twelve ounces of water, to a thin batter, pour into the soup, stir it 
 well, boil one quarter of an hour, and serve. 
 
 * If bacon cannot be had, the same quantity of solid meat of any 
 kind will do. 
 
RECEIPTS EOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 561 
 
 No. 5 . — Meagre Pea Soup. 
 
 This is the same as the former, with the exception that the 
 bacon and dripping are omitted, and oil or butter used in their 
 stead. Buttermilk could with advantage be used ; in which case, 
 add three ounces of salt. Although this food is entirely deprived of 
 animal substance, yet the farinaceous ingredients will act gene* 
 rously on the digestive organs, particularly to a stomach which has 
 suffered from want of food. 
 
 No. 6 . — The Fisherman’s Food eor the Coast. 
 
 Four pounds of fish 
 
 4 
 
 Three ounces of salt 
 
 ) 
 
 One half-ounce of sugar 
 
 \oi 
 
 One quarter- ounce of pepper 
 
 
 Bay-leaf, thyme 
 
 Oi 
 
 Two pounds of oatmeal 
 
 4 
 
 8| 
 
 Cut four pounds of fresh fish of any kind in large pieces ; put it 
 in your pan, with three ounces of salt, half an ounce of sugar, a 
 little pepper, two bay leaves, a little thyme, one quart of water, and 
 let it stew gently ; mix two pounds of oatmeal with seven quarts of 
 lukewarm water, and pour it over the fish ; stir it gently, so as not 
 to break it too much; let it boil twenty minutes, and it is done. 
 
 A red herring or dried salt fish, previously soaked, is exceed- 
 ingly good to make this food ; but omit the salt if all salt fish is 
 used. 
 
 No. 7. — Curry Fish. 
 
 Four onions, sliced 
 
 ) 
 
 One bay-leaf 
 
 >oi 
 
 Two apples, sliced 
 
 f 
 
 Quarter of a pound of fat ... 
 
 
 
 Three ounces of salt ... 
 
 ::: ::: ::: 
 
 Half an ounce of sugar 
 
 One pound of rice 
 
 ... ". 2 
 
 An ounce of curry powder 
 
 Of 
 
 Six pounds of fish 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 Put into a stew-pan four onions, a small bunch of bay -leaf, thyme, 
 and savory ; two apples, if convenient, with a quarter pound of fat, 
 three ounces of salt, and quarter ounce of sugar, and fry for fifteen 
 minutes. Put one pound of rice, and four quarts of water, and boil 
 till tender : add one ounce of curry powder, mixed in a little water. 
 Cut up six pounds of cheap fish into pieces of the size of an egg ; 
 add to the above, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes, according 
 
 O 0 
 
562 
 
 RECEIPTS EOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 to the kind of fish. Salt and dried fish, previously soaked, cooked 
 in this way, is excellent, omitting the salt. 
 
 " No . 8. — Food for the Coast. 
 
 Three haddocks 8 
 
 Two pounds of salt ) ^ i 
 
 Quarter of an ounce of sugar ) 2 
 
 5 
 
 Take three middle-sized haddocks ; remove the gills and interior, 
 and cut open ; rub them with two pounds of salt, a quarter of an 
 ounce of sugar ; let them remain twenty-four hours, turning occa- 
 sionally ; pass a twig through the eyes, and hang them in a cool, 
 well ventilated place, until rather dry. 
 
 Conger eel cut into slices one inch thick, halibut, plaice, mackerel, 
 treated in the same manner (if large they must be crimped) will 
 keep for some time ; they can be boiled, baked, broiled, or fried. A 
 pound haddock will take twelve minutes broiling, from fifteen to 
 twenty frying, twenty minutes baking or boiling. 
 
 TsTo. 9 . — Savoury Bice Food. 
 
 Six pounds of bones ... ... 
 
 Ten quarts of water : 
 
 Three ounces of salt 
 
 Bay-leaf, &c 
 
 Two onions, cut thin 
 
 Half an ounce of sugar 
 
 Half a pound of vegetables, cut small 
 
 Half a pound of oatmeal 
 
 Pound of rice 
 
 Two ounces of dripping 
 
 8 
 
 \ 
 
 yi 
 
 i 
 
 8 
 
 The bones can be sold after using for 2 
 
 6 
 
 Having saved the bones of the previous d&y, a very good food 
 may be made as follows : — Take six pounds of bones, which break 
 into small pieces, and boil in ten quarts of water for four hours ; 
 having added three ounces of salt, a small bunch of thyme, bay-leaf 
 and savory, put into a stew-pan the fat, and two onions cut thin, 
 half a pound of vegetables, as carrots, turnips, celery, &c., cut very 
 thin, half ounce of sugar ; put it on the fire for fifteen minutes, 
 stirring it occasionally ; add half a pound of oatmeal, and mix well ; 
 moisten with two gallons of the stock from the bones, add one and 
 a quarter pound of rice, previously soaked 5 boil till tender, and 
 serve. 
 
RECEIPTS EOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 563 
 
 No. 10 . — Rice Panada. 
 
 One pound of rice 
 
 Three-quarters of an ounce of sugar 
 
 Two ounces of salt 
 
 One pound of flour 
 
 Half an ounce of curry powder at 6d., or a quarter of 
 a pound of treacle 0| 
 
 5 
 
 Boil a pound of rice (previously washed) in one gallon of water, 
 for one hour ; add three quarters of an ounce of sugar, two ounces of 
 salt ; mix with some cold water, to make a thin paste, one pound of 
 flour or oatmeal, and half an ounce of curry powder; add it to the 
 rice, and boil for twenty minutes, and serve. 
 
 Should it be preferred sweet, add a quarter of a pound of treacle 
 instead of the curry. 
 
 This will make ten pounds of solid food. 
 
 No. 11. — Peas Panada. 
 
 Quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork ... 2 
 
 Two ounces of dripping 
 Four ounces of onions or leeks 
 One pound and a half of peas 
 
 Half an ounce of salt 
 
 Half a pound of Indian meal 
 
 Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork into 
 small dice, put it into a stew-pan with two onions or tops of leeks ; 
 well wash, and cut them thin, and fry ten minutes ; add one pound 
 and a half of peas, half ounce of salt, quarter ounce of sugar, and 
 one gallon of water, boil till it becomes a puree or pulp, then add 
 sufficient oatmeal, common flour, or Indian meal, to make it thick, 
 and boil thirty minutes.* This food is very strengthening, and 
 might be made several days previous to using ; it will keep well — if 
 no vegetable is to be obtained, a small quantity of essence of herbs 
 would improve it. 
 
 .. 2 
 
 No. 12. — Peas Panada, Sweet. 
 
 One pound of peas ... 
 
 Half an ounce of salt 
 
 An ounce of dripping 
 
 Half a pound of Indian meal 
 
 Quarter pound of treacle 
 
 4 § 
 
 * If Indian meal is used, it must be boiled two hours. 
 
 o o 2 
 
564 
 
 RECEIPTS POE THE NEEDY. 
 
 Boil in one gallon of water, one pound of peas, add half an ounce of 
 salt, one ounce of dripping or melted suet, mix with it half a pound 
 of Indian meal, boil for two hours, stirring it well, add a quarter of 
 a pound of treacle ; this can he eaten hot or cold. 
 
 Ho. 13.— Cheese Stikabout. 
 
 One pound of Indian meal 2 
 
 Three ounces of salt OJ- 
 
 Half a pound of cheese 2 
 
 Quarter ounce of mustard OJ 
 
 4f 
 
 Put two gallons of water in a stewpan, and boil ; take some Indian 
 meal, the quantity depends on the quality, and add it gradually to 
 the water, stirring it all the time so that it should be quite smooth 
 and thick : add three ounces of salt ; simmer on the side of the fire 
 for two hours, taking care that it does not burn ; add half a pound 
 of strong cheese, broken small or grated, with a little mustard : 
 give it a boil and serve. 
 
 Or put it into baking tins, allow it to get cold, cut it into pieces, 
 which fry or bake. 
 
 Ho. 14. — Indian Meal Poullenta. 
 
 One pound of meal ... 2 
 
 Quarter of a pound of sausage meat 1 
 
 3 
 
 Prepare the meal as above (which must be very thick) without 
 the cheese ; place it in baking tins ; place a thin layer of sausage 
 meat or black pudding upon it, and cover it with more of the meal ; 
 bake it for twenty minutes and serve. 
 
 This is an excellent and cheap dish, and fit for the tables of the 
 wealthy if a strong gravy is poured over it when served. 
 
 Ho. 15. — Savouky Hominy. 
 
 Two quarts or four pounds of Indian corn 8 
 
 Quarter of a pound of dripping 1 
 
 Two onions ) 
 
 Three ounces of salt ) 2 
 
 H 
 
 Take two quarts of Indian corn and soak it for twenty-four hours 
 in water, put it into a pot containing two gallons of boiling water 
 and simmer for five hours ; draw off the water, if any, add a quarter 
 of a pound of dripping, two onions, sliced thin, three ounces of salt, 
 put it on the fire for twenty minutes, keep stirring it all the time, 
 so that it does not burn, and serve. This will produce two gallons 
 
RECEIPTS EOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 565 
 
 of excellent food. The puree made from the whole corn, as above, 
 is much sweeter and more wholesome than that made from the 
 ground meal. The great mistake at present in the use of Indian 
 meal is, that it is not cooked enough, it being used similar to flour ; 
 it should, on the contrary, be well mixed with boiling water and 
 allowed to simmer for never less than two hours ; it then loses its 
 raw taste and increases in quantity. 
 
 No. 16 . — St. Patrick’s Soup. 
 
 One pound of meat at 4d. . . . 
 
 4 
 
 Two ounces of dripping 
 
 0* 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 1 
 
 Salt, sugar 
 
 Flour 
 
 1 
 
 Spice 
 
 Dillisk # 
 
 ::: ::: ::: ;:;N 
 
 
 7 
 
 Take one pound of meat without bones, and cut into small pieces, 
 put into a stew-pan two ounces of dripping, one ounce of leeks, one 
 ounce of celeiy, one ounce of carrots, two ounces of turnips, and fry 
 for ten minutes ; then add the meat with two ounces of salt, half 
 ounce of sugar, and fry until a thick glaze is produced ; then add 
 one quart of cold water and half a pound of flour ; then add two 
 ounces of dillisk, well washed and chopped fine ; a little mixed spice 
 and pepper. Boil three-quarters of an hour, and serve. 
 
 No. 17.— Cheap Oyster Porridge. 
 
 On many parts of the coast oysters can be had for three shillings 
 per thousand ; they can be made, without much trouble, into a nou- 
 rishing and palatable food, by putting two dozen into an earthen 
 pan, with the liquor from them, and add three spoonfuls of flour ; 
 place it on the fire, stirring them round ; add a little salt and pepper 
 and they are done. This can be added to the porridge made of the 
 Indian corn and rice, or in the other receipts, where fish is used ; 
 a little lard is an improvement ; also a bay-leaf, mint, and an onion 
 sliced. 
 
 Mussels and cockles can be used in the same way in proportion of 
 two dozen to the quart. 
 
 BTo. 18 .— Cabbage Stirabout. 
 
 Well wash two pounds of cabbage, take out the stalks, and cut it 
 slanting in slices ; put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of 
 dripping, lard, or butter ; half ounce of salt, quarter ounce of* pepper, 
 one ounce of sugar, put it on the fire for ten minutes, stir it well, 
 
 * Porphyna Purpura — if not to be had, use laver or slook — the 
 ulva lactuca. 
 
566 
 
 RECEIPTS TOR THE NEEDY. 
 
 then cover it with water and stew for twenty minutes, and mix it 
 with stirabout, previously made of Indian corn meal. 
 
 Young nettles done in this way are exceedingly wholesome, and 
 any kind of green vegetables can be cooked in this manner. 
 
 Ho. 19. — Conger Eels. 
 
 Put a slice of about two pounds weight into a saucepan, or earthen 
 pot, with two onions sliced thin ; a small quantity of dillisk, well 
 washed and chopped fine, quarter ounce of salt, and a little pepper, 
 add two quarts of water, and stew for one hour ; ten minutes before 
 using take out the fish and thicken with a little flour, previously 
 mixed with some water ; boil ten minutes, pour it over the fish, and 
 serve — if onions or dillisk are not to be had, use half a pound of 
 any vegetable cut fine : halibut and similar fish can be cooked in 
 the same manner. 
 
 Eeceipt Iso. 20. 
 
 Take three dozen of mussels, wash them, and place them in a 
 stewing pan over the fire for five minutes, so that the shell is open • 
 take them off, and remove the upper shell : sometimes a small crab 
 will be found in them, which remove, as they are rather unwhole- 
 some ; replace them, with their liquor and bottom shell, in the pan, 
 add a spoonful of flour, mixed with some butter or lard, and a spoonful 
 of chopped parsley ; stir it in, and stew for five minutes, and serve. 
 
 Por a large quantity have ready the large boiler, put therein four 
 pounds of lard or butter, and four pounds of sliced onions, and fry 
 for five minutes ; have ready two pails full of mussels with their 
 liquor out of their shell, which put in the boiler, with one pound of 
 salt, two ounces of pepper, two ounces of sugar, and two pounds of 
 chopped parsley ; have ready two pounds of flour, mixed with water, 
 to the consistence of good cream, and put it into the boiler ; boil 
 for ten to fifteen minutes, stir it gently with a wooden spatula, and 
 serve ; if not required meagre, use instead of the flour and water 
 the same quantity of boiling stock, from the bones of meat, or from 
 cow-heel, well stewed, parts of which, cut small, can be added : any 
 flavour of herbs may be given, if liked. 
 
 Ho. 21. — The Poor Man’s Potato Pie. 
 
 Wash and peel six pounds of good potatoes, cut in slices, take one 
 pound of fat mutton or beef cut into small dice, mix the whole with 
 pepper and salt, cover with 51 paste, and bake one hour and half, 
 and serve. 
 
 In all the foregoing receipts, a greater quantity of meat may bo 
 used by those who can afford it, as I am a great advocate that every 
 trade should flourish and that wealth should support luxury. How- 
 ever great the quantity of meat that may be used, no longer time 
 should be used in cooking it. Take the same proportion of the 
 receipts for any larger quantity. 
 
ANECDOTES, ETC. 
 
 THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE’S HEAD-QUARTERS PRIOR 
 TO THE BATTLE OF INKERMANN. 
 
 His Royal Highness’s quarters were situate about one hundred 
 and thirty yards to the left of the windmill on the Woronzoff Road. 
 Five parallel bell-tents were occupied — one by the duke, the others 
 by Colonel Macdonald, Colonel Tyr whitt, Major Clifton, and Dr. 
 Gibson, his staff. M. Comte, chef de cuisine to the duke, and to 
 whose devotion to all who came in his way and needed help while 
 in the Crimea I before have had in this work occasion to allude, 
 has since related to me that on the morning of the Battle of 
 Inkermann he got up at three o’clock, the weather being chilly 
 and damp and a thick heavy fog surrounding the camp, and 
 having lit his fire he made himself some tea, when, about five, 
 as he was quietly smoking his pipe a la bivouacaire, within 
 
 THE DAWN OF INKEBMANN. 
 
568 
 
 APPOINTED GOVERNOR OP BALAKLAVA. 
 
 range of the fire (of his open-air battery) the duke came up to him, 
 exclaiming, “ Halloo ! M. Comte, you are about early this morning.” 
 
 “ Yes, your Highness,” he replied ; “ the fact is, the weather is so 
 cold and damp, that for the life of me I could not sleep, therefore I 
 turned out and made myself a cup of tea.” 
 
 “You are right,” said the duke, warming his feet by the fire; 
 “ the weather is truly wretched.” 
 
 Hardly had the duke said these words, than several volleys of 
 musketry and loud shouts reverberated through the camp, some- 
 thing like the growls of thousands of wild animals. Leaving no 
 doubt that it was an attack of the enemy, the duke imme- 
 diately left me and ran for his horse, and was soon mounted, and 
 started alone towards the scene of action ; a few minutes after, his 
 staff followed in the wake of their gallant leader. So sudden was his 
 departure, that, having made a bowl of tea which I had intended for 
 him, though I ran after him with it in my hand, his Highness 
 started without partaking of it. Hot till five o’clock in the evening 
 did the duke return, his horse wounded, and a bullet having 
 passed through his coat-sleeve without injuring him. Major 
 Clifton had been wounded in the cheek during the battle, and came 
 back to quarters during the day to have his wound dressed by Dr. 
 Gibson. On returning once more to the field of battle, he had his 
 horse shot under him. When he again returned he was seen carry- 
 ing the saddle of his defunct animal on his back. At the return of 
 the staff in the evening, the outside of the duke’s head-quarters 
 had the appearance of a field hospital, M. Comte having taken on 
 himself to supply refreshment to all the wounded who were brought 
 to his nursing care. I have heard that no less than six or seven 
 hundred had been supplied with succour in the course of two or 
 three days by his Highness’s faithful clief de cuisine. 
 
 On the 11th of the same month, and while the duke was staying 
 on board the Resolution , in the harbour of Balaklava, our heroic 
 chef de cuisine was ordered to remain in possession of the com- 
 mandant’s house in Balaklava, awaiting the return of his royal 
 master, and also having under his charge no less than fifteen female 
 prisoners of war, whom he was charged by the authorities to watch 
 over with the aid of sentries, as it was thought that these female 
 Amazons might fire Balaklava. Amongst them was the Governor’s 
 wife and children. All the men being ordered out of the establish- 
 ment, the Governor’s lady, with a smile on her lips, in very good 
 Drench, inquired of M. Comte if two gentlemen present would be 
 allowed to remain, which favour, after serious consideration on the 
 part of the new Governor pro tern ., was granted, these gentlemen 
 being of the advanced ages respectively of three and five years. 
 “Never did I feel a greater relief,” said M. Comte, “than when 
 these lady prisoners were taken out of my charge, as each day 
 discovered some fresh attempts at conspiracy.” It was during 
 the governorship of this semi- warrior that the dreadful storm took 
 
COOKING UNDER DIFFICULTIES 
 
 569 
 
 place in the Bay of Balaklava, and uprooted the beautiful avenue of 
 poplar trees which ornamented his capital, and which, to his sorrow, 
 much disfigured the prettiest part of his dominions. 
 
 On a previous occasion, just after landing, before the battle of the 
 Alma, this indefatigable culinary artist, who by the bye is an old 
 traveller, was seen, under a heavy shower of rain, cooking beneath 
 the wings of an open umbrella, preparing a dish of fried croquettes , 
 at a time when the duke himself did not anticipate such a delicacy. 
 The umbrella was used to stop the rain falling in the pan, which 
 would have prevented the completion of this dainty dish, water and 
 fat being irreconcilable foes. 
 
 Early the following morning an alarm took place, when our 
 warrior-cook deserted his umbrella, and shouldered his gun in his 
 right as commander-in-chief of his own battery (de cuisine ). The 
 moon was faintly shining, and with its rays appeared the duke, who 
 indistinctly seeing some one, exclaimed, “ Who's there ?" when M. 
 Comte replied, “ It is me, your Highness. Having heard the alarm, 
 I considered your tent and my battery could not be too well guarded, 
 so I have just taken up this musket to be on the defensive.” 
 The duke replied, “Really, Comte, vous etes impayable;” and im- 
 mediately started with his staff to the supposed scene of action. 
 
 A STORM IN A FRYING-PAN. 
 
570 
 
 THE SULTANS NEW PALACE. 
 
 THE CULINAEY SENTBY. 
 
 After a few hours everything was restored to order, when Comte 
 grounded arms, inspected his battery, and had breakfast ready to the 
 minute as usual. 
 
 A VISIT TO THE SULTAN’S NEW PALACE OF DOLMA 
 
 BATCHI. 
 
 In the month of March, 1856, I was fortunate enough to obtain 
 an order, which I procured by great favour, to visit this huge pile of 
 marble, prior to its final completion and occupation by his Majesty 
 the Sultan and his harem ; and although many parts of it were open 
 to the public by ticket, yet very few visitors could boast of having 
 seen so much of the interior as myself of this stupendous and most 
 elegant area, where the modern hour! of Mahomet were shortly to 
 be located, they at this time still remaining in the old palace on the 
 Bosphorus. The large room preparing for the reception of the 
 Sultan’s favourites had but very little moveable furniture, but at the 
 same time was most elegantly decorated. Nothing but couches were 
 placed round the room, while the flooring was of highly-polished 
 
MAGNIFICENT APARTMENTS . 
 
 571 
 
 wood of a most tasty design ; the whole of the hangings and coverings 
 were of a rich satin of a lavender colour, with a large flowery pattern ; 
 twenty chandeliers, of immense dimensions — about seven feet in 
 height — sprang from the ground, proudly bearing each more than 
 one hundred wax-lights. The wall was after the Oriental fashion, 
 which I do not much admire, here and there painted al fresco , 
 representing various views of either landscape, colonnades, palaces, 
 &c. In spite of this defect, the effect was so peculiar at the first 
 glance, that it produced on me a most extraordinary sensation. 
 To my surprise I found the ceiling remarkably low, but which I 
 found, on consideration, would not appear so to its future innumerable 
 tenants, from their habit of squatting on the floor. The effect of the 
 light on this apartment had been tried two nights before, and the 
 ends of the wax-lights still remained in the sockets of the chandeliers, 
 and which, when lit, must have had a most extraordinary effect. Here 
 for the first time I had an uninterrupted view from the interior of 
 a harem, through the latticed windows, which are now made on an 
 improved principle to the old Turkish style, which give you more 
 than ever an opportunity to see from the inside without being seen, 
 the exterior of which is also painted with views of landscapes, which 
 are visible from the Bosphorus. At the further end of this stupen- 
 dous kind of drawing-room were several apartments for the favourites, 
 most gorgeously decorated by valuable Oriental tapestry, hanging 
 curtains, ottomans, &e. Next I was shown a narrow corridor with 
 three doors ; I learned that these were the penitential cells for any 
 of the naughty beauties who might need correction ; however, the 
 dungeons did not bear a very dreadful aspect. From here we 
 went to the Sultan’s bedroom, which was gorgeously decorated 
 with deep golden fringe and crimson velvet hangings of the richest 
 description ; the decorations of this room are almost indescribable. 
 We then visited another room, called the Sultan’s Cabinet de 
 Travail, where I was much struck to see it entirely fitted up in 
 the European style, quite a la Frangaise , after the style of 
 Louis XV. Upon inquiring of my ciceroni, I learned that the 
 whole of the furniture of the apartment had been presented to the 
 Sultan by the Emperor of the French, Napoleon III., and I must 
 say that the quiet, though superb, manner in which it was fitted 
 was a most pleasant relief to me after wandering through so many 
 gaudy and superfluously grand apartments. The Sultan had already 
 occupied himself in this room. The carpet and table were covered 
 with the finest red French cloth, while the ceiling was of a good 
 elevation ; in fact, the Tuileries (which I have lately visited) cannot 
 boast a more tasty or better fitted-up apartment. The staircase 
 leading to the harem was very striking, the lantern at the summit 
 being covered with paintings, representing windows with pots of 
 flowers, vases, birds, &c. ; yet the whole of these, though well painted, 
 presented quite a theatrical aspect to the really charming appearance 
 of the marble staircase. My guide had observed to me while in the 
 Cabinet de Travail, that he never recollected any stranger entering 
 
572 
 
 COOKS AT A DISCOUNT. 
 
 it before ; lie then showed me the chef-d’oeuvres of the palace, which 
 were the ladies’ baths — the most expensive and luxurious part of this 
 costly palace, the bath being the greatest luxury of the Turks, the 
 whole of them being inlaid with sapphire stone boldly carved. We then 
 passed through the Throne Boom, which I have already described in 
 this work : it is a regular facsimile of St. Sophia, but more gaud}^. 
 We then walked through the Beception Boom for the ambassadors, 
 which is simply decorated with gold and white, in the European 
 style. On turning to the left, we came to the grand crystal staircase 
 with its thousand jets of red light. I then begged to be shown the 
 kitchen, which request at first I perceived was objected to by my 
 guide, who expressed himself that it was impossible ; but being armed 
 with formidable letters, and making use of M. Boco Yido’s name, 
 who is well known to the Sultan’s grand hatchi batchi, or chief cook, 
 I at length prevailed on him to induct me to this pandaemonium of 
 scientific handicraft, where between three and four hundred cooks were 
 busily engaged manipulating the most recherche dishes a la Turk, 
 many of which I had the pleasure of tasting. The appearance and 
 bustle of the kitchen, which was quite new to me, put me more in 
 mind of a public market than what it really was ; every man-cook was 
 dressed in the Oriental fashion, all looking very clean. The copper 
 vessels which they use are daily tinned — which fact I learnt from the 
 Chef — and shone like so much silver. The process of the Turkish 
 cookery, though slow, I much approve of, as the succulence and 
 aroma of every kind of food are retained, and it is far superior to our 
 system, everything being cooked or stewed on the top of red-hot ashes 
 laid on slabs of stone or marble. The floor of the kitchen was rather 
 ill-paved, and the attendants were in the habit of strewing everything 
 on the ground not wanted for use — an untidy trick. I could trace 
 from the interior of this monster establishment no less than twenty 
 huge shaft cliimne}^ sprouting out from the roof of this gastronomic 
 temple. It was now near twelve o’clock, when a shower of tray-bearers 
 made their appearance in the kitchen, and with the greatest celerity 
 were loaded with heaps of dishes belonging to the first, second, 
 and third course. I ascertained on inquiry that these were for 
 the dinners of the ladies of the harem. White snowy-looking cloths 
 were thrown over each tray, and they were carried, to my astonish- 
 ment, to the old palace on the Bosphorus, a distance of nearly 
 half a mile, on the bearers’ heads, — the large kitchen at the latter place 
 having been destroyed by fire, and the Sultan’s meals only being 
 prepared there in a private kitchen, his Majesty always dining alone ; 
 which order was instituted by Mahomed II., the story being, that 
 that monarch had so little confidence in those around him, that 
 he always feared they would rob him of his food while carrying it 
 from plate to mouth. Delighted with my visit, I deposited in my 
 cicerone’s hands the golden ke}^, in the shape of bakscliish, with 
 which I had so successfully opened the palace door of the Sublime 
 
573 
 
 THE T. G/S ONCE MOKE. 
 
 THE PARISIAN KITCHEN FOR THE WORKING-CLASSES, 
 
 OK FOTTRNEANT DE lTmPERATKICE. 
 
 The kitchens for the working-classes are sixty-eight in number, 
 each capable of supplying from one thousand to twelve hundred 
 mechanics with good food, for which each one pa} r s about two-thirds 
 of the value received, although nothing is given gratuitously. They 
 are attended by Sisters of Charity, and kept extremely clean, while 
 the deficit is, I believe, made up by her Majesty the Empress and 
 the municipality of Paris, from whom these institutions derive their 
 name of Fourneant de Tlmperatrice. The provisions are supplied 
 from the central market of Paris, the Halle au Ble, which is under 
 the superintendence of the Comptroller-General, M. Durand, by 
 whom I was treated with the greatest courtesy while drawing up the 
 report I made to his Majesty by imperial command; and I much 
 regret that want of space prevents my giving it at full length here, 
 although the report had chiefly a local importance. Wagons take 
 the different articles of food early in the morning to all the establish- 
 ments. These are most useful institutions, and in case of a scarcity 
 of food, provisions could always, at a trifling expense, be dressed here 
 for the needy. Indeed, every metropolis, and all large mercantile 
 towns, ought to follow this excellent example, which, I believe, owes 
 its origin to England. 
 
 THE TRAVELLING GENTLEMEN OF THE CRIMEA. 
 
 I cannot pass without notice the following little anecdote, related to 
 me by Colonel Carleton of the Coldstreams — the principal personage 
 connected with it. The day after the battle of Inkermann (said the 
 gallant colonel) the field was visited by many T. G.’s, some of them, 
 contorting their optics with eye-glasses, and taking a survey of the 
 many dead on the field, near to the spot where he was busily 
 engaged in paying the last duty to the remains of the defunct 
 brave ; whereupon he made inquiry of one of his men if the gentle- 
 men were known who seemingly took such an interest in the awful 
 spectacle. He then desired them to come to him, which request, with 
 a kind smile, they soon obeyed ; but much were they disappointed 
 when, instead of addressing them in a friendly manner, the Colonel 
 ordered them to take their coats off and shoulder a pick and dig 
 graves, which disagreeable task they could not avoid, as discipline 
 was the order of the day, though very disgusting the task to our * 
 curious and no doubt wealthy pleasure-hunters. They were, the 
 Colonel afterwards ascertained, merchants from one of our great 
 commercial cities. When trapped, it was morning ; when they finished 
 their task, it was night. Thus our amateur gravediggers had not 
 only a hard day’s work, but a very unpleasant one in the bargain. 
 
574 
 
 DANGER OE COPPER COOKING UTENSILS. 
 
 THE CONSUMPTION HOSPITAL, BEOMPTON. 
 
 A Visit to the Kitchen , by Request . 
 
 While at the Beform Club, Captain Lyons, E.M., requested me to 
 visit the kitchen of the above hospital, in the anticipation that I might 
 he able to make some improvements in that department, if any 
 should he requisite. The day following I w~ent and found the place 
 in the most perfect order, while all at once a stove of a very showy 
 structure caught my eye, in which were placed eight or ten copper 
 caldrons, well fixed in either iron or brick frames, each being labelled 
 beef-tea, coffee, tea, &c. I could not hut approve of the elegant 
 appearance these utensils presented, hut at the same time give my 
 disapprobation of their having copper in use, while screwed down so 
 tightly that hut a small chance remained of their being properly 
 tinned. In removing the lid, I remarked to the Captain that not the 
 slightest particle of tin remained, and that therefore the cooking 
 could not be done in any other but a highly dangerous manner. 
 I then explained to the woman cook where the danger lay ; when 
 she quietly answered that there could be no danger, as she had each 
 boiler cleansed two or three times a day ; which of course was the 
 root of the evil, having no doubt been the cause of the entire disap- 
 pearance of the tin. In asking her how long it was since they were 
 tinned, she replied, — “ Not since she had been engaged there, nor, 
 probably, since they had been fixed up when I explained to her the 
 sad mistake in not having well tinned all such boilers, in large esta- 
 blishments such as this, where the utensils are in daily use, as they 
 ought to be tinned at least once in every three months. I then 
 made about a gallon of beef-tea with the hospital rations, in less 
 than an hour, to which quick process she much objected, sa} T ing that 
 she was certain the patients would not like it, as in that time it could 
 not be thoroughly done, as she always stewed it for at least six or 
 seven hours, by which time the meat was done to ribbons. I begged 
 the Captain to allow several basins of my broth to be sent to the 
 different wards to various patients, which was done, whom we 
 afterwards visited. When the Captain inquired of one how he felt, 
 he answered that he felt a great deal better that day, his taste 
 having returned to him, which was a proof of the superiority of my 
 plan over that of their cook’s — a system, I regret to say, practised 
 in many large establishments. (For Beef- tea, see Hospital Diets.) 
 
COPIES OF LETTERS 
 
 FROM THE MILITARY AUTHORITIES, ADDRESSED TO 
 M. SOYER DURING HIS STAY IN TURKEY AND THE 
 CRIMEA. 
 
 Head-Quarters, Scutari, August 2>rd, 1855. 
 
 Dear Monsieur Soyer, — As you are about to leave the hos- 
 pitals at Scutari for Balaklava, I think, in justice to your unremitting 
 attention and zeal in your endeavours to improve the culinary de- 
 partment, it is incumbent on me, as the military commanding officer 
 of the* troops in the Bosphorus and Dardanelles, to express to you 
 how much the sick and wounded of this army, as well as those who 
 have their interest at heart, are indebted to you for the improvement 
 you have made in the cooking of these establishments. Your altera- 
 tions of the kitchens and stoves must add much to the economy of 
 fuel, which is of the greatest consequence here ; and your successful 
 attempts, combined with simplicity of making such palatable beve- 
 rages and soups out of so small a portion of ingredients, is highly 
 advantageous. 
 
 Wishing you a pleasant voyage, and hoping to find the cooking in 
 camp as much improved as the cooking here, 
 
 I am, yours ever faithfully, 
 
 (Signed) W. Paulet, Brigadier-General . 
 
 I am sure General Simpson will afford you every assistance in car- 
 rying out your wishes. 
 
 Head-Quarters, Scutari, 20 tli Nov., 1855. 
 
 My dear Monsieur Soyer, — I regret exceedingly to learn that 
 you have been ill, and hope you are recovered by this time. When do 
 you leave for the Crimea ? I hope to have the pleasure of seeing you 
 before you depart. The British army owes you much, and is grateful 
 for all you have done. 
 
 Thanks to your exertions, we have at least ameliorated our military 
 system of cookery, and we thank you sincerely for it. 
 
 Accept my best wishes, and believe me, yours truly, 
 
 H. K. Storks, 
 
 Brig adder- General. 
 
576 
 
 COPIES OF LETTERS. 
 
 Head-Quarters, Scutari, March 22nd, 1856. 
 
 My dear Monsieur Soyer, — I cannot allow you to leave 
 Scutari without expressing my perfect satisfaction with all }^ou have 
 done to ameliorate the culinary system for our soldiers. The kitchens 
 you have established at Scutari answer admirably, and I am satisfied 
 that we are as much redevable, if not more so, to the cooks for the 
 good health we now enjoy, as to the doctors. 
 
 Pray receive, my dear Monsieur Soyer, the assurance of my senti- 
 ments of kind regard. Yours truly, 
 
 H. IL Storks, 
 
 To Monsieur Alexis Soyer. J Brigadier- General. 
 
 Soyer’s Yillarette, May 15th, 1856. 
 
 After doubting many of your enthusiastic views as to cooking, I 
 acknowledge that I am fairly beaten. Every one to his trade. 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 C. A. Windham, 
 
 Major-General, Commander of Staff. 
 
 Camp, First Division, May 25th, 1856. 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, — I accept, with many thanks, the portable 
 cooking-stove you have been kind enough to present me ; and I per- 
 ceive it will henceforth he the means of my eating after a civilized 
 fashion, so long as I have a coat-pocket to carry it in. 
 
 I beg your acceptance of an inkstand, made with a Russian grape- 
 shot. It hears upon its surface the proof of having been projected 
 during the siege, and will, therefore, serve you as a lasting reminis- 
 cence of your sojourn in the camp. 
 
 I also hope it will cause you to bear in mind the assurance of the 
 value I attach to all the exertions and arrangements you have made 
 to ameliorate the position of our brave soldiers, by teaching them to 
 utilize their rations, and improve the cooking of their food — formerly 
 so often spoiled or wasted. 
 
 Pray accept the assurance of my highest consideration. 
 
 Rokeby. 
 
 Head-Quarters, Scutari, May, 1856. 
 
 Dear Monsieur Soyer, — Many thanks for your obliging letter 
 of the 29th April. 
 
 I thank you for the trouble you have taken with Marshal Pelissier, 
 and am much flattered by the cordial acknowledgment of his Ex- 
 cellency. Should you have occasion to see him again, pray tell 
 him so. 
 
 I sincerely compliment you upon the success of your stoves. The 
 British army owes you much; and I assure you we are highly 
 
COPIES OF LETTERS. 
 
 577 
 
 sensible of the value of your devotion, and the disinterested and 
 honourable sentiments you have displayed. 
 
 Our system of military cookery much required reform, and in 
 introducing a new one }mu have rendered us immense service. 
 
 Pray accept, my dear Monsieur Soyer, the assurance of my esteem 
 and highest consideration. 
 
 II. K. Storks, 
 
 Brigadier - General . 
 
 Light Division Camp, Sebastopol, June 7th, 1856. 
 
 General Lord William Paulet, commanding Light Division, 
 having inspected the camp cooking-stoves issued by Monsieur 
 Soyer for trial to the ten regiments composing his division, 
 has much pleasure in stating that they answer in every respect. 
 They consume not a quarter so much fuel ; they boil the meat 
 more regularly, and the vegetables, and therefore make better 
 soup ; they never smoke, which is invariably the case with all bar- 
 rack cook-houses. You can use them either out of doors or inside, 
 and would prove useful in all standing camps or barracks ; and may 
 be issued to the troops according to the number required occupying 
 a barrack, and the remainder being kept in store, they being so 
 portable. 
 
 Lord William would like to see them in all quarters occupied by 
 troops where the cook-houses are not good, and the saving of fuel 
 would pay the expense. 
 
 Scutari Barracks Hospital, April 9th, 1855. 
 
 It gives me great pleasure to testify, after visiting Monsieur 
 Soyer’s kitchen in the above establishment, and comparing the quality 
 and economy of the many excellent preparations made for the use of 
 the sick, that those prepared from his formulae are very superior to 
 those previously supplied. 
 
 I consider, if the suggestions of Monsieur So} r er be acted on, that 
 he will have conferred a great boon on the sick and convalescent 
 soldier, and for such improvement will deserve the thanks of every 
 person having feeling for the British soldier, and who desires to 
 ameliorate his condition. 
 
 Hugh Birt, F.R.C.S.E., 
 
 Civil Surgeon of the 1st Class to the Scutari Hospital . 
 
 Hyder Pasha Hospitals, Scutari, May 1st , 1855. 
 
 This is to certify that Monsieur Soyer has, in his vists to the above 
 hospitals, rendered a very important service, by clearty demonstrating 
 that the dietary for the sick may, by his improved method of cook- 
 ing, be greatly enhanced in value by making it, out of the usual 
 
 P P " 
 
578 
 
 COPIES OE LETTERS. 
 
 * 
 
 materials, more nutritious, more palatable, and more advantageous 
 for every purpose. 
 
 H. Gr. W. Macellery, 
 
 1st Class S. Surgeon, Superintending Medical Officer, 
 
 Byder Pasha Hospitals. 
 
 Balaklava, June 15th, 1855. 
 
 My dear Sir, — In reply to your letter of the 7th instant, there 
 will be no difficulty whatever in giving to the troops occasionally 
 salt beef and pork on the same day, should they wish it. 
 
 Trusting soon to have the pleasure of seeing you in the Crimea, 
 
 I remain, yours very truly, 
 
 A. Soyer, Esq., William Eilder. 
 
 &c, <fcc. &c. 
 
 June 1 §th, 1855. 
 
 My dear Sir, — I am much obliged to you for the trouble 3'Ou 
 have taken in my behalf, and feel confident that any arrangement 
 entered into by you will be as excellent as the other results I have 
 witnessed, of that ability and energy by which our poor fellows 
 have so much benefited. I will deliver your message to Colonel 
 Daniell. 
 
 Believe me, my dear Sir, yours very truly, 
 
 J. W. Carleton. 
 
 3rd September, 1855. 
 
 My dear Sir, — I was not well the day of your former feast, which 
 unfortunately deprived me of the pleasure of tasting your good 
 things ; and to-day I am compelled to go down to Balaklava to see 
 after stores for the troops embarking for Kertch. But I know all 
 will do well under your able direction, and hereafter I shall have the 
 satisfaction of witnessing the beneficial results of your labours in the 
 camp kitchens. 
 
 Sincerely yours, 
 
 J. Hall. 
 
 Purveyor-in-Chiee’s Oeeice, Scutari, 
 
 August 8th, 1855. 
 
 My dear Sir, — I have much pleasure in acknowledging tho 
 receipt of your letter. If I have done anything to help you, it 
 is because I have seen it to be my duty to the public, and because 
 your admirable arrangements have all the object of making the sick 
 
COPIES OF LETTERS. 
 
 579 
 
 man delight in his diet, which, I fear, was not the case previous to 
 your arrival. 
 
 I can, perhaps, more than any one appreciate the good you have 
 done. Why, then, should I not heart and soul help you in an object, 
 the attainment of which induced you to leave England ? — viz., the 
 good of the soldier. 
 
 Go on, and success to you. I will endeavour to help you as much 
 as I can at Balaklava, as I have felt it my duty and pleasure to 
 
 do here. 
 
 I am, my dear Sir, yours truly, 
 
 J. Scott Robertson. 
 
 Monsieur Alexis Sover, 
 
 Balaklava. 
 
 Guards’ Camp, First Division, Sebastopol, 
 
 October mil, 1855. 
 
 I hereby acknowledge the receipt of five of Monsieur A. Soyer’s field- 
 kitchens or camp stoves, which are now in active use by the cooks 
 of the Coldstream Guards. And I hereby further acknowledge the 
 receipt of a sixth camp-stove from Monsieur Soyer, for the use of 
 the hospital of the said regiment. I cannot speak too highly in 
 praise of these camp-kitchens for the great comfort and convenience 
 they afford, the great economy and. diminution of fuel, whether 
 placed in the open air or under cover, and enabling the cooks to 
 soak their salt meat properly ; also to make puddings of rice and 
 other things ; and in cases of emergency, any quantity of rice-water, 
 barley-water, or lemonade can be made, as well as soup, beef-tea, 
 &c. If split peas were issued as rations by the Commissariat once 
 or twice a week, when salt pork and beef are given, it would be a 
 great addition to the soldier’s comfort, as well as a most wholesome 
 and nutritious food, and very strongly recommended by Monsieur 
 Soyer. Speaking for the Brigade of Guards, which I have the 
 honour at this time to command, I have to thank Monsieur Soyer 
 for all his kindness, and, the very great boon he has given us by 
 granting us the use of his stoves, which are the models for the rest 
 of the army in the Crimea. 
 
 Gordon Drummond, Colonel, 
 Commanding Brigade of Guards . 
 
 Monsieur A. Soyer, • 
 
 Guards’ Encampment, Sebastopol. 
 
 Balaklava, 9 th Bee., 1855. 
 
 Dear Monsieur Soyer, — I am favoured with your letter of 29th 
 tilt., and am glad to hear so favourable a report of the colnpressed 
 vegetables which have recently arrived out. 
 
 I sent to Constantinople some time ago for a supply of haricot 
 
 p p 2 
 
580 
 
 COPIES OF LETTERS. . 
 
 "beans, with the view to being issued with salt pork, as you recom- 
 mended ; and their introduction generally will be greatly benefited 
 by your personal superintendence and advice, as you propose. 
 
 We shall all have great pleasure in seeing you here again, and 
 availing ourselves of your valuable suggestions and services. 
 
 The winter has fairly set in, after two months of beautiful weather. 
 Cold, damp, and discomfort prevail to a certain extent, and we move 
 about in a sea of mud ; but, as a set-off, we have abundance of sup- 
 plies of all kinds, including fuel — the men are well clothed, and the 
 erection of the huts is well advanced, notwithstanding their late 
 arrival and the difficulty in transporting them to the front. 
 
 I remain, dear Monsieur Soyer, 
 
 Yours very faithfully, 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, &c., Geo. Maclean. 
 
 Scutari. 
 
 P. S. — I have written for a six months’ supply of Chorlet’s com- 
 pressed vegetables as a reserve, and to guard against unforeseen con- 
 tingencies. We have fresh vegetables, potatoes, and onions, more 
 regularly ; but cannot always expect this will continue. The quan- 
 tity sent for will be about 10,000,000 of rations. — G. M. 
 
 Camp, May 11th , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — One of your cooking-stoves was tried by me yesterday and 
 to-day. 
 
 It answers to perfection ; I never tasted better soup than was this 
 day made by a soldier out of the regular rations. 
 
 The quantity of fuel saved by this stove is enormous. 
 
 I trust that your information is correct — viz., that Government 
 have made arrangements to supply the army with these cooking- 
 stoves. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 Alexander Maxwell, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 Monsieur Alexis Soyer. Commanding 46£/z Regiment. 
 
 Camp, Sevastopol, May 21st , 1856. 
 
 My dear Monsieur Soyer, — I can have no hesitation in saying 
 that your stove is the best I have seen, and the men of my regiment 
 are very much pleased with it. 
 
 I think you told me that ovens could be fitted to them also ; if so, 
 they will be a boon conferred on the British soldier, which he will, 
 I am sure, highly appreciate. 
 
 Yours very faithfully, 
 
 B. Daubeney, 
 Commanding 55th Regiment . 
 
COPIES OE LETTERS. 
 
 581 
 
 Camp, near Sebastopol, May 2Zrd, 1856. 
 
 Sir, — I have the honour to report that the result of the experi- 
 mental cooking by Monsieur Soyer’s stove and boiler has been most 
 satisfactory. 
 
 The small quantity of fuel required is a great advantage, a small 
 stick carried by each man of a company would afford sufficient fuel 
 to cook a meal. 
 
 I have the honour to he. Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 W. Sparse, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 The Major of Brigade. Commanding 38 th Regiment. 
 
 Camp, Sebastopol, May 25th, 1856. 
 
 Sir, — I have to acknowledge your letter of this morning, and 
 have much pleasure in stating that during the short period we had 
 the opportunity of using your field- stove, nothing could he more 
 satisfactory, both in its superiority as a means of cooking a large 
 quantity of rations in a short time, and also from the small quantity 
 of fuel used in doing so. I must also give it as my opinion, that 
 it is admirably suited for operations in the field, hut requires to have 
 the outer casing protected in some way; probably an open netting of 
 iron wire would do so, with a couple of loops, so that two stoves 
 could be attached and carried by one mule or horse. 
 
 I remain, Sir, 
 
 Alexis Soyer, Esq., Yours very faithfully, 
 
 &c. &c. &c., Bamsay Stuart, 
 
 Crimea. Liezitenant - Colonel 21 st Fusiliers. 
 
 Camp, Sebastopol, 2 6th May, 1856. 
 
 Sir, — I beg leave to state that I approve most highly of your 
 field-stoves. 
 
 Each company in my regiment has had good opportunities of fully 
 testing their qualities ; and both in the cooking of fresh and salt meat 
 have been found to answer the purpose for which they were in- 
 tended, remarkably well. 
 
 I have the honor to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 B. Riley, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 Monsieur A. Soyer. Commanding 48 th Regiment. 
 
 Fourth Division, Camp, Sebastopol, 26th May, 1856. 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, — In reply to your letter of the 21st of this 
 month, relative to the field-stoves, 1 beg to state that the stove has 
 
582 
 
 COPIES OE LETTERS. 
 
 been tried by the 57th Eegiment, and I am of opinion that it is well 
 adapted for the purpose intended. 
 
 It affords every facility for cooking, and saves a considerable 
 quantity of fuel ; and two of the stoves to one company on the march 
 would be far preferable to the camp-kettles now in use. 
 
 I have the honour to be, 
 
 John A. Street, Lieut.-CoL, 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, Commanding 57 th Regiment . 
 
 Fourth Division. 
 
 Camp, Sevastopol, 27 th May , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — I have the honour to state, for the information of the Major- 
 General commanding the Fourth Division, that Monsieur Soyer’s 
 cooking-stove has been tried in the 57th Eegiment, and I am of 
 opinion that it is well adapted for the purpose intended ; there is a 
 very considerable saving of fuel, and little difficulty in cooking ; and 
 two stoves per company would be far preferable to the camp-kettles 
 now in use. I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 John A. Street, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 Lieut.-Col. Smith, A.A.G., Commanding 57 th Regiment . 
 
 Fourth Division. 
 
 Camp before Sebastopol, 2 6th May , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — With reference to No. 3 of this day’s order, I have the 
 honour to state that during the short period we had the opportunity 
 of using Monsieur Soyer’s field-stove, nothing could be more satis- 
 factory, both in its superiority as a means of cooking a large quantity 
 of rations in a short time, and also from the small quantity of fuel 
 used in doing so. 
 
 I must also give it as my opinion that it is admirably suited for 
 operations in the field, but requires to have the outer casing pro- 
 tected in some way ; probably an open netting of iron wire would do 
 so, with a couple of loops, so that two stoves could then be attached 
 and carried by one mule or horse. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant, 
 
 Eamsay Stuart, Lieut.-Col., 
 Commanding 21 st Fusiliers . 
 
 The Assistant- Adjutant-General, 
 
 &c. &c. Ac., Fourth Division. 
 
 Camp, Sebastopol, 2 Qth May , 1856. 
 Sir, — In compliance with Division Order No. 3 of this day’s date, 
 I beg leave to state that I approve most highly of the Soyer field- 
 stoves. 
 
 Each company in my regiment has had good opportuties of fully 
 testing their qualities ; and both in the cooking of fresh and salt 
 
COPIES OF LETTERS. 
 
 583 
 
 meat, they have been found to answer the purpose for which they 
 were intended, remarkably well. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 The Brigade-Major, B. Biley, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 Second Brigade, Commanding 4 3th Regiment. 
 
 Fourth Division Camp. 
 
 Camp, Fourth Division, 2 Itli May , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — In compliance with divisional orders of yesterday’s date, 
 directing officers commanding corps to report on Monsieur Soyer’s 
 stove, 
 
 I have the honour to state I consider Monsieur Soyer’s stove cooks 
 the^ men’s rations infinitely better than the ordinary wa} r . The 
 saving of fuel, also, to Government is a very important considera- 
 tion ; and moreover I am informed by Monsieur Soyer that the 
 men’s rations can easily be baked by his stove, which I consider 
 very desirable, so as to enable the men to have a change in the way 
 of cooking their dinner. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 F. C. Evelegh, Lieut.-CoL, 
 Commanding 20th Regiment . 
 
 The Assistant- Adj utant- General, 
 
 Fouth Division. 
 
 Camp, Sebastopol, 27 th May, 1856. 
 Sir, — Having had one of your field-stoves in use for some weeks, 
 for the men of the 23d Fusiliers, and all the companies having taken 
 their turn of cooking with it, I am happy to be able to bear testi- 
 mony to the great improvement you have effected in the soldiers’ 
 cooking. Your field-stoves are clean, easy to use, and very eco- 
 nomical of fuel ; they cook the soldiers’ food extremely well, and the 
 men like them very much, each company having been anxious to 
 retain the stove as long as possible. The great saving of fuel, also, 
 renders these stoves particularly valuable in a camp like this. 
 
 I am, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 Henry W. Bunbury, Lieut.-Col., 
 Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Commanding 23rd Fusiliers . 
 
 &c. &c. &c. 
 
 Light Division Camp, May 21th, 1856. 
 
 I beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letter respecting 
 the field-stove, and have no hesitation in giving my testimony 
 as to its great efficiency, both as to economy of fuel and the simple 
 
584 
 
 COPIES OE LETTERS. 
 
 method of cooking, the result of which can scarcely fail to be satis- 
 factory, even with the most ignorant and unskilful performer. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 Percy Hill, Lieut.-Col., 
 Commanding 2nd Bat . Rifle Brigade . 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, 
 
 Fourth Division Camp. 
 
 Camp of the Light Division before Sebastopol, 
 
 27 th May , 1856. 
 
 My dear Sir, — T am happy to inform you that your new stove 
 has been used, with great success, in the 77th Regiment. 
 
 It dresses the men’s dinners remarkably well, and a great saving 
 of fuel is effected by using it — about a stone of coals a day. 
 
 I consider it admirably adapted for cooking in the field, and it is 
 very portable. 
 
 I am, my dear Sir, 
 
 Very faithfully yours, 
 
 R. J. Straton, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, &c, &c. Commanding 77th Regiment. 
 
 Camp before Sevastopol, 28 th May , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — H aving tried your stove, I consider it the best possible 
 cooking apparatus for the army, whether in barracks or standing 
 camp. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient servant, 
 
 A. Russell, Major, 
 Commanding l.s£ Bat. Rifle Brigade. 
 
 Monsieur A. Soyer, 
 
 Camp, Fourth Division. 
 
 Camp, Sevastopol, 28 th May 1856. 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, — The cooking-stove sent to my regiment on 
 trial was in use one week, and I am glad to be able to tell you was 
 highly approved of. 
 
 The soup was richer and superior in flavour, and the meat better 
 boiled. 
 
 It has the great advantage of cleanliness, also being capable of 
 service in the open air, needing only a shed to keep the weather off 
 those employed. 
 
 Yours very obediently, 
 
 W. H. Wellesley, Colonel, 
 
 Commanding Royal Fusiliers. 
 
 Monsieur A. Soyer. 
 
COPIES OF LETTERS. 
 
 5S5 
 
 Crimea, 3Ls£ May, 1856. 
 
 I hereby certify that Soyer’s field-kitchen for fifty men has 
 recently been tried in the battalion under my command, in cooking 1 
 soldiers’ rations, and that it appears perfectly to answer all purposes. 
 It possesses many advantages — viz., the small quantity of fuel 
 required, its lightness and portability, and requiring, when in use, 
 the attendance of only one man. It is in every respect preferable to 
 the cooking coppers generally used in barracks. 
 
 E. W. Huey, Lieut.-Col., 
 Commanding 2?id Sat. 1st Royal Regiment . 
 
 Camp, Kamara, June , 1856. 
 
 I have much pleasure in bearing my testimony to the great 
 advantage of Monsieur Soyer’s field-stove over the usual method of 
 cooking practised by an army, from the economy in fuel, the little 
 attention it requires when the fire is once lighted, and its construc- 
 tion enabling the soldier to cook in the open air in all weathers. 
 The slow process of boiling, also, which is easily regulated by the 
 men after a day’s instruction, produces a more nutritious soup, and 
 renders the meat more tender than when cooked in the ordinary 
 way. Altogether, I consider the improvement one of great utility. 
 
 John Douglas, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 To Monsieur Alexis So} T er. Commanding 79th Highlanders . 
 
 Crimea, June 2nd , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — I have much pleasure in bearing testimony in favour of 
 your stove, which is highly approved by my men; and from its 
 cleanliness, and economy in fuel , I think it must supersede the old 
 method of cooking. 
 
 I remain, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 Edward W. Walker, Colonel, 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c. Commanding Fusilier Guards . 
 
 Camp, Kamara, 2nd June , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — In answer to yours of the 21st May last, I am of opinion 
 that your “ field-stove,” if taken into general use in the army, would 
 be a great improvement over the old system of cooking with camp- 
 kettles. It requires but little attendance, a great deal less fuel, 
 without the least regard to situation, and may be used with perfect 
 freedom in any description of weather. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 A. Leith Hay, Lieut.-Col., 
 
 Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Commanding 93 rd Highlanders . 
 
 Cathcart’s Hill, Crimea. 
 
586 
 
 COPIES OE LETTERS. 
 
 Light Division Camp, 4 th June , 1856. 
 
 Sir,— I have much pleasure in being able to bear testimony to 
 the efficacy of your field-stoves. Their extreme simplicity and their 
 consuming so little fuel, render them particularly applicable to the 
 use of soldiers. The men of the regiment under my command all 
 approve of them. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 Monsieur Alexis Soyer, A. C. Gooden ough, Lieut.-CoL 4 
 Cathcart’s Hill. Commanding 34 th Regiment. 
 
 Camp, Sebastopol, 7 th June , 1856. 
 
 I have witnessed the working of Monsieur Soyer’s patent portable 
 kitchen for troops, and consider it most excellent — the process 
 simple, saving of fuel great, and always insuring a good meal to the 
 soldier, in camp or barrack, it will be a great boon, should it be 
 generally adopted. 
 
 Thomas Kelly, Lieut.-Coh, 
 
 Commanding 31 st Regiment. 
 
 Camp beeore Sebastopol, Fourth Division, 
 
 June \4ith, 1856. 
 
 Major-General Garrett approves highly of the cooking-stoves 
 introduced by Monsieur Soyer, which have been made trial of by all 
 the regiments of the Fourth Division, and have given great satisfac- 
 tion to the men, and have been approved by commanding officers. 
 
 In a standing camp, or in quarters, they are admirable ; they 
 can be put up in an instant anywhere, either in or out of doors, 
 and they never smoke. If attention is paid to the proportions of 
 meat, water, and the necessary ingredients, when cooking com- 
 mences, the most careless soldier can scarcely fail in making a 
 good mess. There is also a great saving of fuel ; and as only a 
 certain amount of fire can be kept going, a steady and even process 
 of cooking is insured, by which, without any great skill on the part 
 of the soldier, a good dinner is in due course produced. 
 
 A. Garrett, Major-General, 
 Commanding Fourth Division. 
 
 Light Division Camp, Crimea, 14 th June , 1856. 
 
 My dear Sir,— It gives me great pleasure to send you my 
 opinion of your camp-stove — the 90th Light Infantry under my 
 command having had one on trial for some weeks, during which 
 time I watched it very closely. If generally used in the army, I 
 consider it will be as great a boon to soldiers as it must be a saving 
 to the public. Its portability for camp purposes, where one mule 
 can carry two stoves to cook everything for one hundred men, and 
 
COPIES OF LETTERS. 
 
 587 
 
 without the necessity for a cook-house, is an important consideration ; 
 but the more so when its portability does not affect its qualities for 
 general purposes in barracks, &c. The smallest quantity of fuel is 
 required to light it and to keep it sufficiently hot, and the degree of 
 heat being so well and simply regulated, waste of fuel becomes im- 
 possible, and the cooking much improved over ordinary coppers in 
 the usual barrack cook-houses. With the addition of your very 
 simple receipts, it appears to me that there is everything we can 
 require, not only to make the most of a soldier’s rations, but to 
 render them both wholesome and palatable. 
 
 You were good enough to superintend personally at my cook- 
 houses — until that time, the soldiers threw away, or used for other 
 purposes than intended, the fat of the pork ration ; with your plain 
 instructions, they afterwards spread it on their bread as butter, and 
 no wonder they were exceedingly fond of it, for it was pure and 
 sweet, and far superior to the rank bad butter they purchased in the 
 canteens, &c., in the Crimea. It will not be wasted again. I am 
 happy to have this opportunity to acknowledge a great service ren- 
 dered, and I wish that your camp-stoves may meet with the success 
 they deserve, that they may be generally used in the army, not only 
 in camp, but in quarters, hospitals, &c. 
 
 I am, dear Sir, very faithfully yours, 
 
 Robert Campbell, Colonel, 
 Commanding 90 th Light Infantry . 
 
 Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Ac. &c. 
 
 Camp, Sebastopol, 14 th June , 1856. 
 
 My dear Sir, — I have just received your letter. 
 
 In reply, I have now to state, from what I have seen of your 
 stoves, that they are most admirably adapted for the purpose 
 intended. They economize fuel, which is a great thing ; and they 
 will be a great “ boon” to the soldier, in every respect. 
 
 I am, yours very truly, 
 
 Thomas Ingram, Lieut. -Col., 
 
 To Monsieur Soyer, &c. Commanding 97th Regiment . 
 
 Barrack Hospital, Scutari. 
 
 Head-Quarters, Sebastopol, 19th June , 1856. 
 
 Sir, — In acknowledging your letter of the 15th instant, I have to 
 observe that one of your camp-stoves has been in constant use in the 
 56th Regiment for the last two months, and from inquiries from the 
 men themselves, and my own observation, I am decidedly of opinion 
 that they possess very considerable advantages over any other 
 means of cooking at present in use in the British army, and I would 
 strongly advocate their being furnished to all barracks, not only on 
 account of their superiority in rendering the soldiers’ ration much 
 
588 
 
 COPIES OE LETTERS. 
 
 more wholesome than when prepared by the means ordinarily used, 
 hut also for their great economy of fuel and labour. 
 
 All these advantages were clearly demonstrated on the occasion of 
 Lord Gough’s visit to the camp of the 56th, when, with ten of the 
 stoves in operation, you superintended so successfully the cooking of 
 five hundred men’s rations. 
 
 I remain, your very obedient servant, 
 
 A. W. Lacy, Lieut. -Col., 
 
 Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c. Commanding 56t7i Regiment. 
 
 Camp, Kadikoi, June 2§th, 1856. 
 
 Dear Monsieur Soyer, — The kitchen which you were kind 
 enough to leave in our camp has been working admirably ; the men 
 are quite delighted 'with it, because it saves them so much trouble 
 and cooks their rations so far superior to the old way : the saving in 
 fuel must be immense. I trust, when we get back to England, every 
 regiment may be served with them. 
 
 Believe me, very truly yours, 
 
 W. Peel, Lieut.-Col., 
 Commanding 1 Ytli Hussars . 
 
 Scutari, August 1 1th, 1856. 
 
 My dear Sir, — The department to which I belong having been 
 broken up consequent on the return of the English army from the 
 East, I hope you will allow me, before I leave this country, to express 
 to you the obligation I feel for your invaluable services in the hos- 
 pitals here and at Kululee. To the important information and 
 improvements which from the first you brought to bear upon the 
 culinary department at each hospital, have the sick been indebted 
 for much of the comforts they enjoyed when in hospital ; nothing 
 does tend to console a patient, or to restore him, so much as the 
 nicety of the food which is given him : on the other hand, the 
 badly-cooked food which is so often found in hospitals where the 
 cooks have not been trained, retard no doubt the convalescence of 
 the sick, the patient rather turning from his meal than desiring it. 
 It was not so, however, with the hospitals here from the time you 
 commenced your improvements in the kitchens. 
 
 I could not, for myself, have desired anything better than the 
 meals which, through your management, were furnished daily to the 
 patients. I think the general management of the kitchen has been 
 admirable, and, considering the vast numbers which had to be cooked 
 for, in every way successful. I believe your system introduced into 
 the general hospitals of the army generally, would be attended with 
 incalculable advantage in every way, to the sick as well as the con- 
 valescents, and, I have no doubt, with much economy. 
 
 You are aware how much pleasure it gave me to see the working 
 of your excellent field-kitchens at the First Division, when I visited 
 the Crimea in September last on duty. So much was I struck with 
 
COPIES OF LETTERS. 
 
 589 
 
 their excellence, and the little expense attending them, that I 
 addressed a letter to Sir Benjamin Hawes on the subject at the time, 
 suggesting the propriety of at once introducing them into the hos- 
 pitals in the front, where I believe they were very much wanted. I 
 can only hope that ere long not a regiment in the service will be 
 without them ; and I am sure that will be the wish of all who have 
 seen them in operation. 
 
 Wishing you a happy return to England, where you left your 
 family and friends with the patriotic and humane object of rendering 
 your gratuitous services to the army in the East at a time when so 
 much suffering was endured by the soldiers both in hospital and in 
 the field, and with my thanks for your valuable assistance to my 
 department,- 
 
 Believe me to be, yours very sincerely, 
 
 T. Scott Robertson, 
 
 To Monsieur Soyer. Purveyor-in- Chief. 
 
 Malta, September 8th, 1856. 
 
 Sir, — In reply to your letter requesting me to give you my 
 opinion on the subject of your military cooking stove, I now beg to 
 give you the opinion I have formed of them. 
 
 I will first mention that the stove was used by each of the com- 
 panies of the 47th Regiment in succession. The non-commissioned 
 officers and soldiers all spoke most favourably of it. 
 
 The portable cooking stove has, in my mind, many important 
 advantages to recommend it — one very important one being that it 
 can cook in any situation whatsoever, and in any weather, and with 
 the smallest possible consumption of fuel of any kind which may be 
 available — a very great consideration in localities where fuel is 
 scarce or difficult of access. I imagine those stoves would have 
 answered admirably for cooking in the trenches before Sebastopol, 
 taking little room, consuming little fuel, and showing but little 
 smoke, and cooking the food as securely and perfectly in bad weather 
 as in fine. 
 
 Eor field hospitals the}'' would answer admirably, especially as 
 carrying their own fuel on a march. The cooking for the sick could 
 commence instantly on the halt taking place. 
 
 I think here at Malta they would be very useful in many of the 
 encampments ; in fact, anywhere that troops are suddenty placed they 
 (the cooking stoves) would be found of great use. Even they could 
 answer very well in the event of troops having on any emergency to 
 embark in vessels inadequately provided with cooking apparatus. 
 
 Fully convinced of their merits, I wish the invention all the 
 military success and encouragement it deserves. 
 
 I have the honour to be your very obedient servant, 
 
 M. J. Haley, 
 
 Colonel commanding 47 th Regiment. 
 
 To Monsieur Alexis Soyer. 
 
590 
 
 COPIES OE LETTERS. 
 
 P.S. There is one observation I cannot help adding, which is 
 that, however desirable it is to give the army improved utensils for 
 cooking, little progress will he made in military cookery and teaching 
 the soldiers to turn such rations or other articles of food to account 
 in the most advantageous and ready manner, unless it is some one 
 person’s particular business to teach cooking. We ought to have a 
 non-commissioned officer for the special duty, and who would be 
 responsible for imparting instruction in that most essential craft ; 
 recollecting a most important maxime de guerre : — “ C’est la soupe 
 qui fait le soldat.” 
 
 IB, Kensington Park Terrace North, July , 1857. 
 
 Dear Sir, — I understand that you are about to publish some 
 observations respecting your valuable labours in the culinary depart- 
 ment in the military hospitals of Scutari and the Crimea. If you 
 permit me, I shall be happy to add a few remarks, such as occurred 
 to me during the period I was engaged by the Government as one 
 of the physicians in the Barrack Hospital. One of the first duties 
 in the treatment of the sick was to ascertain the quality of the food 
 adapted to invalids labouring under every form of fever, of acute and 
 chronic diarrhoea, and especially dysentery. It is in vain to attempt 
 to cure these diseases by medicines only ; a carefully regulated diet 
 was of the first consequence ; and I was early disappointed and em- 
 barrassed by the wretched state of the kitchens and diet intended 
 for the sick. I was in the habit of frequenting the kitchen which 
 belonged to the division of the hospital in which I was doing duty, 
 and observing the mode of cooking, and soon found that the soldier- 
 cooks were quite ignorant of their art. I have constantly examined 
 and tasted the mutton and fowls, the soups, the vegetables, and 
 the puddings, and I do not hesitate to affirm that they were as 
 unpalatable and unsavoury and as objectionable as they could be. 
 The practice of cooking the fowls was to put them into nets — a 
 dozen or more in one net ; several nets were placed in large coppers ; 
 and then to boil them as rapidly as possible, with fierce heat. I 
 have many times examined their quality after this process of rapid 
 boiling, and always found them extremely tough and uneatable, and 
 generally the sick soldier could not masticate them, especially as so 
 many of the sick were suffering from spongy gums and decayed 
 teeth, the effects of scurvy. The mutton, generally bad in quality, 
 was always very badly cooked, and the broths or soups very destitute 
 of flavour. No one, sir, can know so well as a physician the great 
 value of palatable and easily digestible food — it is of more conse- 
 quence than the whole contents of the apothecary’s shop. 
 
 I do not desire to flatter you, nor unnecessarily to disparage the 
 former miserable system of cooking. Your presence in that essential 
 department of the healing art inspired us with new hopes. In a few 
 days we discovered the superiority of your successful efforts to unite 
 the agreeable and nutritive qualities of food. Under your instruc- 
 
COPIES OE LETTERS. 
 
 591 
 
 tions, the meat became savoury and eatable — the soups were relished 
 — the puddings were pleasant, and enjoyed — the tea and coffee were 
 refreshing. Those invalids who before your arrival seemed to yield 
 most patiently to their hard lot of semi- starvation, and often went 
 without the medical comforts, now looked out anxiously for the hour 
 when these creature blessings were usually distributed. The Govern- 
 ment, with a proper generosity, gave almost a carte blanche to the 
 Medical Staff to order every medical comfort to the poor sick soldier 
 who could no longer wield a sword or shoulder a musket, and who 
 were perishing by diseases aggravated by improper diet and bad 
 cooking. The art of the cuisine yields not in importance to medicine 
 itself — it is the handmaid of the physician ; and I would rather trust 
 to its curative powers than to the physic of the doctors, if I were 
 limited to the alternative of either the one or the other. 
 
 I am, dear Sir, your obedient servant, 
 Robert Woollaston, M.D. Lond ., F.B.C.S., 
 Fate one of the Physicians of the Barrack 
 To Monsieur Soyer. Hospital at Scutari. 
 
 Copy of Fetter addressed by the Author to the Flight Honourable 
 the Ford Panmure, JF.T . , Sfc. fyc. Sfc., relating to the comple- 
 tion of his Mission , in the shape of a Journal. 
 
 My Lord, — I beg to close this little journal by stating the 
 reason of my long absence since the treaty of peace. It was with 
 the intention of writing a work which will, I hope, perpetuate the 
 ameliorations I have been enabled (through the confidence reposed 
 in me by your lordship) to introduce in the diets for the hospitals, as 
 well as the cooking for the army. And this can be effected in a very 
 short time, without increasing the expense to the nation, but will, on 
 the contraiy, be likely to tend to economy, it being well recognised 
 by the faculty that change of food is as essential to the soldier in 
 health as change of diet is to the invalid. This work will also, with 
 little trouble, have the effect of making cooks of the soldiers, and 
 teach them at the same time to make the most of their rations either 
 in camp or in barracks. 
 
 With the most profound respect, I have the honour to remain, 
 Your Lordship’s obedient servant, 
 
 A. Soyer. 
 
USEFUL INVENTIONS. 
 
 SOYER’S SCUTARI TEAPOT. 
 
 This teapot, which is registered, is manufactured by Messrs. 
 Deane and Dray, London Bridge, and sold by all ironmongers in the 
 kingdom. 
 
 The top of the minaret forms the lid, and the tube which holds the 
 tea, being moveable, allows every facility for cleaning, and amongst 
 its many advantages the most prominent are its cheapness, elegance, 
 and simplicity. It can be made any size. 
 
USEFUL INVENTIONS. 
 
 593 
 
 PATENT ROTARY KNIFE-CLEANER. 
 
 Amongst the many tribulations of small families, one of the worst 
 is knife -cleaning, which is one of the most disagreeable of all house- 
 hold duties — and what is worse than a dirty knife ? Yet where is 
 the house where the housewife is not well up in the household duties 
 who does not experience this inconvenience ? A gentleman named 
 Detheir, a nephew of the celebrated Detheir of the Great Northern 
 Hotel, has really invented a knife-cleaner which ought to be intro- 
 duced in all public institutions, commercial houses, and private 
 families. So much do I approve of this machine as a public boon, 
 that I trust they will be made at such a moderate price as to 
 come within the reach of all. 
 

 / 
 
 
 . 
 
INDEX TO ADDENDA. 
 
 HOSPITAL DIETS. 
 
 Apple Barley Water, 523 
 Arrowroot Milk, 517 
 Arrowroot Water, 517 
 
 Baked Apple Toast-and- Water, 522 
 
 Barley Water, 518 
 
 Batter Pudding, 519 
 
 Beef Soup, 514 
 
 Beef Tea, 514 
 
 Boiled Bice, 521 
 
 Bread-and-Butter Pudding, 520 
 
 Bread Pudding, 520 
 
 Browning for Soups, 522 
 
 Calf s-foot Jelly, 516 
 Cheap Plain Bice Pudding for Cam- 
 paigning, 519 
 Chicken Broth, 515 
 Citronade, 523 
 Currant Syrup, 523 
 Custard Pudding, 520 
 
 Bate Water, 523 
 
 Effervescent Beverages, 523 
 Essence of Beef Tea, 515 
 
 Figs and Apple Beverages, 521 
 Fig Water, 523 
 French Herb Broth, 522 
 
 Jelly Stock, 517 
 
 Macaroni Pudding, 520 
 Mulberry Water, 523 
 
 Mutton and Yeal Tea, 115 
 
 Orange-Flower Water, 
 
 Pine Apple Syrup, 523 
 Plain-boiled Bice, 515 
 Plain Lemonade, 523 
 Plain Oatmeal, 516 
 
 Baisin Water, 523 
 Baspberry Water, 523 
 Bice with Gravy, 516 
 Bich Bice Pudding, 520 
 Bice Water, 518 
 
 Sago Jelly, 517 
 Sago Pudding, 521 
 Semi-citric Lemonade, 518 
 Semi-stewed Mutton and Barley 
 Soup for one hundred Men, 513 
 Soyer’s Cheap Lemonade, 519 
 Soyer’s Plain Lemonade, 518 
 Spring Brink, 523 
 Stewed French Plums, 521 
 Stewed Macaroni, 520 
 Strengthening Beef Tea, 515 
 Summer Brink, 523 
 Sweet Bice, 516 
 Syrup of Orgeat, 523 
 
 Tapioca Pudding, 521 
 Tartaric Lemonade, 519 
 Thick Arrowroot Milk, 517 
 Thick Beef Tea, 515 
 Toast-and-Water, 522 
 
596 
 
 INDEX TO ADDENDA 
 
 ARMY RECEIPTS. 
 
 Army Soup for fifty Men, 526 
 
 Raking and Roasting with the Field 
 Stove, 528 
 Raking in Oven, 529 
 Reef Soup, 532 
 
 Camp Soup, 531 
 
 Cocoa for eighty Men, 530 
 
 Coffee for ten or eighty Men, 529 
 
 Easy way of Cooking in Earthen 
 Pan, 530 
 
 French Reef Soup, or Pot-au Feu, 
 530 
 
 How to Soak and Plain-boil Ra- 
 tions of Salt Reef and Pork on 
 Land and at Sea, 525 
 How to Cook for a Regiment of 
 one thousand Men, 527 
 
 Pea Soup, 532 
 
 Plain Irish Stew for fifty Men, 527 
 
 Receipts for Frying-pan, 532 
 
 Salt Meat for fifty Men, 525 
 Salt Pork, with Mashed Peas, for 
 one hundred Men, 562 
 Salt Pork and Pudding, with Cab- 
 bage and Potatoes, 527 
 Semi-Frying, Camp Fashion, 530 
 Soyer’s Food for one hundred Men, 
 for using two stoves, 527 
 Stewed Salt Reef and Pork for one 
 hundred Men, or a Regiment of 
 one thousand Men, 526 
 Stewed Fresh Reef and Rice, 532 
 Suet Dumplings, 533 
 
 Tea for eighty Men, 529 
 Turkish Pilaff for one hundred 
 Men, 528 
 
 RILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS. 
 
 Rattered Eggs with Mushrooms, 
 546 
 
 Rattered Eggs with Sprue Grass, 
 546 
 
 Rouillabaisse Anglicised, 550 
 Ditto, Second Class, 550 
 
 Chicken, American fashion, 549 
 Chipped or ribboned Potatoes, 548 
 Chop or Steak a la Sultana, 536 
 Chops semi-Proven§al, or Marseilles 
 fashion, 536 
 
 Cold Asparagus Salad, 549 
 Crab Salad, 543 
 
 Crabs au Gratin in the Shell, 541 
 Curried Eggs, 547 
 Curried Tripe, 539 
 
 Eggs with Tomato Sauce, 547 
 Eggs with chopped Ham or Tongue, 
 546 
 
 Eggs with Mushrooms, 546 
 Eggs with Truffles, 546 
 
 Eggs with Sprue Grass, 547 
 Eggs a la Ronne Femme, 547 
 Eggs au Mivoir with Ham or Racon, 
 
 546 
 
 Eggs a la Tripe or Onion Sauce, 
 
 547 
 
 Endive Salad, 544 
 
 Fillet de Eceuf, Parisian fashion, 
 
 535 
 
 Fillet de Roeuf, semi-Chateaubriant, 
 
 536 
 
 Fried Oysters, New York way, 542 
 Fried Potatoes, 547 
 Fried Potatoes with Maitre d’Hotel 
 Rutter, 548 
 
 Fried Potatoes with Cayenne Pepper, 
 
 548 
 
 Game for Supper, 542 
 Gratin Tripe in Shell, 539 
 Grilled Chicken with Sharp Sauce, 
 539 
 
INDEX TO ADDENDA. 
 
 597 
 
 Ham and Bacon Omelettes, 545 
 Ham with Shalots, Parsley, and 
 Chervil, 546 
 
 Herring a la Rob Roy, 549 
 
 Kidneys Saute, with Sherry, Port, 
 or Champagne, 537 
 Kidney Toast, 537 
 
 Lamb Chops a l’Africaine, 538 
 Lamb Chops a la Printaniere, 53S 
 Lamb Chops a la Boulogne, 538 
 Lamb’s Fry, 540 
 Lobster Curry, 540 
 Lobster Curry in Shell, 540 
 Lobster au Gratin, 540 
 Lobster Cutlets, 540 
 Lobster Salad, 543 
 
 Minced Sandwiches, 536 
 Mirrored Eggs, 546 
 Mushroom Kidney Sandwich, 536 
 Mutton and Lamb Cutlets a la 
 Bouchere, 535 
 
 Mutton and Lamb Cutlets semi- 
 Bouchere, 535 
 
 Mutton, Lamb, or Yeal Cutlets, en 
 Papillote, 537 
 
 Mutton or Lamb Chops a la Turc, 
 540 
 
 New Potato Salad, German fashion, 
 549 
 
 Ditto, with French or Haricot 
 Beans, 549 
 
 Omelettes with fine Herbs, 544 
 Omelettes with Mushrooms 545 
 Omelettes with Sprue Grass, 545 
 
 Omelettes with Parmesan, 545 
 Oysters stewed American fashion, 
 542 
 
 Plain Mutton Chops and Steaks, 
 535 
 
 Plain Salad with Anchovies, 544 
 Poached Eggs with Cream, 545 
 Poached Eggs with Maitre d’ Hotel 
 Butter, 545 
 
 Poached Eggs semi-curried with. 
 
 Ham or Bacon, 545 
 Pork Chops a la Tartare, 538 
 Pork Chops with Pimento Butter, 
 
 538 
 
 Rarebit a la Soyer , with Sherry or 
 Champagne, 547 
 Relishing Steak, 535 
 Rumpsteak and Potatoes, 534 
 
 Salad, new, Tartar fashion, 543 
 Sandwiches for Evening Parties, 540 
 Sauces, List of, 551 to 554 . 
 Scalloped Lobster, 540 
 Seini-curried Kidneys, 537 
 Soyer ’s Broiling or Universal Devil, 
 
 539 
 
 Soyer’ s Grouse Salad, 543 
 Soyer’s Universal Devil Mixture, 
 548 
 
 Ditto for the Million, 549 
 Soyer’s Balaklava Nectar, 560 
 Soyer’s Crimean Cup a la Wynd- 
 ham, 550 
 Stewed Tripe, 539 
 Stewed Oysters on Toast, 542 
 
 Tripe Lyonnaise fashion, 539 
 
 / 
 
 A SERIES OF RECEIPTS FOR THE NEEDY, 555 to 566. 
 
 ANECDOTES, etc. 
 
 The Duke of Cambridge’s Head- 
 Quarters prior to the Battle of 
 Inkermann, 567 
 
 A Visit to Dolma Batchi Palace, 570 
 
 The Travelling Gentleman of the 
 Crimea, 573 
 
 The Consumption Hospital, 574 
 Copies of Letters, 575 to 591 
 
 Patent Rotary Knife Cleaner 
 
 593 
 
LONDON 
 
 SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, CIIANDOS STE LIT, 
 COYENT-GARDEN. 
 
SOYER’S SULTANA’S SAUCE, Analysed by Dr. Hassall. 
 
 I have examined with much care several samples of M. Soyer’s New Eastern or 
 Sultana Sauce, and I am of opinion that it is an excellent preparation. While it is a good 
 stomachic, its flavour is delicious; moreover the ingredients of which it is composed are of the 
 purest and most wholesome description. 
 
 SOLE AGENTS-MESSRS. CROSSE AND BLACKWELL. 
 
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