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PE SO RT Te ene ae peiae eae Pe See fe a ae Oe et ee ee oe ae r / r Pe ee a eS oe oo cere i ee ALR RPO RP OEE SOA ar te ee a a r ‘J Return this book on or before the Latest Date stamped below. A charge is made on all overdue books. saa University of Illinois Library Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2021 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign httos://archive.org/details/seventyyearsoforoOmeek_0 WASHINGTONS PROGRE SDo = ise lw. aA RS : ZA Ale SF Ae ut a) Rl aN Ak aN eo % ‘. 3° ah Meo BS Nh == ZB ——4 ( A HTT te) = = TSS ili inca hy ——— — mE a lif uA et = = a hale ee ee eee ile tse hes i rl ; ae Le Dgy *2 Brod ie 7 ; 2 hae aS oR age rd . j ra Fi ‘yi ° = vi a ~~ P - ee , , : fee . q ry ; nies ere ake = i : = P. .) ae | Pi < —S', Ao hye 0) <= “t : a oo p= > . 7 s F * é ri 7 5 > ee - 7 ov oes > Je e 7 ia : 7 F Ln — : : ‘ eee A 7 ‘ | 7 J » 7 at a es id 7 oe art ; ee aN ¢ } ‘nt A ers ate . Proms _ > ad aan’ a 7 i oo fe a eA wh p- : =a > 's os Me ok ae / PAIGE Oe “uote Chuself” LN is half the battle of Ww life. Oo kuofe your State ts a long stride tofvard useful citizenship. wy g & 7K NS S 2 ISS oA re is Cop as 12 Seattle, Washington a " d\ “| December 29, 1921 Ke RK ; L) ow y) VGH x ¥ #idx s aD OPPO PA SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS IN WASHINGTON BY EZRA MEEKER AUTHOR OF “WASHINGTON TERRITORY WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS,” “HOP CULTURE IN THE UNITED STATES,” “PIONEER REMINISCENCES OF PUGET SOUND,” “THE TRAGEDY OF LESCHE? “THE: Ox TEAM,” “EIGHTY-FIVE YEARS OF A BUSY LIFE,” “PIO- , NEER’S STORIES FOR CHILDREN.” SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 1921 Copyright 1921 by EZRA MEEKER Published December, 1921 ALLSTRUM PRINTING COMPANY Tacoma, Washington ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Y acknowledgement is due to Maurice Fitz Gerald for the three fine stories of Indian Wars of Washington, of which he was a part as scout with General O. O. Howard and for other material and in securing and compiling data for this work; to Clarence B. Bagley for his advice and information supplied; to the management and employees of the Seattle Public Library in their effort to lighten my personal labors in searching out historical facts and com- piling them ready for my use; to several state officers—all to whom I applied—for valuable data; to Geo. N. Salisbury of the U. S. weather Bureau department for the complete tables of temperature and rainfall as far back as observations had been taken and, finally to hundreds of friends—past the thousand mark — who by their advance orders encouraged the incurring of so heavy an expense putting on the work at a time of such high cost of printing. TABLE OF ILLUSTRATIONS Opposite Page Seventy Years of Progress in Washington....Frontispiece TNSCription s Pare. ee ceca eee, nee 5 Ezra Meeker and Oliver Meeker .........................------- 19 WmMancipators! | veialni ON Res Aa ee Uo ea ee ee 152 Harvest ee ee UA ead teenie hea ce een ee 182 A -Modern2Washington) Dalry. cae eee 203 Orchards ol) Washington i see 207 Grapes ANG Pears i eae oe aioe ae eae eed eee 211 AUBerryield ol) WaSDINO COM cree ee cece 218 Apples. ‘and’ Peachesw.28.t) cen no 2 ees 215 SWIMS ee oer cue acetate ee 249 Tim ber soi WAS GIN Stone ae ew. ieee oe, een 253 AVIBCION) ete Re ee ae ei EE 2 eee 313 0) Sa tlied BOIS oh teas Rl en LM hha eee mu OR Lean LAr No 349 Maurice FitzGerald i020, ipeecenetier, 0) cee ae pes 351 Ci eto sua WOT ree il ac My See eee cece re naan 367 ONTO.) OSED Ta pitee ee aa ca ee coe te nara ere 370 The Oxteam Expedition (11 Illustrations) ..Back of Book Table of Contents CHAPTER I. et cV ee FUMBLE) Oh oa UI RARE se IEE er! aa a EL ed OPE 11 CHAPTER II. Pe LOA TIC ZOUNCY me CALISUICS iekelaed ne eee wedi 20 CHAPTER III. PORE LIGVELODINGN Uwe ci areca actey cob eage sec raconue vat eas 23 CHAPTER IV. MRAMSUDOLCLALION TANG LLAVGL iy) iy woes ae uranic HEMEL. 35 CHAPTER V. MERTON OWAEY-OL Mises deh aly ach ce nese sc eye cast besten cete 48 CHAPTER VI. OLAV COTN ESD OCIS AAI LNB dae mts eV EA Gay VR MB WS ew 55 CHAPTER VII. bik CS uo ge (3 Gok Wa) a heen Ory A tle ean oui a ata ea bY eI, Site 66 CHAPTER VIII. PRE CATICN DE unt ote Ne Uy Lene Ue Laue i ae) 712 CHAPTER IX. eek Ta Yad Ep eee aha pita eae A A a ce gi) a nas ei eae YS 76 CHAPTER X. TMV ITILVETSIL VS oid wiles lieu atebrrdeedtan At tat ant. te dakts 85 CHAPTER XI. Wy Heninio cone Slates COHCQC fier eretests aver teccon verses ahi 92 CHAPTER XII. PP LOMITISGIELILIOTIS ee cetc tte Peter ice ada saas Cols ear tewtena sd bags 98 CHAPTER XIII. Cenc) a) ANWR 0 O50 ol Toy eer amatiaer ya gey ae appar tebcane Mab te Ae ie ans ae 108 PACE SMEPICOLICS AF eee hep etacs ia ea RN NEU Spr orentannes ccnp abate 114 VIII. CONTENTS CHAPTER XV. American® Red si Cross}. cee ttc ek pee: eee Lig CHAPTER XVI. Kniohts)ol) Columbus) io) Ae eee 128 CHAPTER XVII. SAIVATION PATI Y (uc eS Ae 134 CHAPTER XVIII. OMIM Go tA sean iy eV AG) Cn eo 0U a ee nee 138 CHAPTER XIX. INTIPSIM ONS Ce CUA eS ale ve PL a CMe Se eee 142 CHAPTER XxX. Prohibition oe ae oe ee ed 145 CHAPTER XXI. POMancipation yf ee I mp a ease 150 CHAPTER XXII. Inventions and) Discoveries’). ea eee 160 CHAPTER XXIII. land Of) Milk ‘and Honey eee es ree 169 CHAPTER XXIV. Back) tor the army Wee ype sO ee 174 CHAPTER XXV. BETTI CUE T Coen eee eae ee eee ee eee i ae act cda ey Meee ee 180 CHAPTER XXVI. Dairies; and Condensaries i300 cs ee eae eee 203 CHAPTER XXVII. Horticulture yh Oe ee | a ee ee 207 CHAPTER XXVIII bo clio] Eb te: 1 af MENON ARETE OMI A NEN mere I i 216 CHAPTER XXIX. Dorved-Om lands a ees ie cence ened ae 220 ATTA ALTON ee) a i Ed CMa Oa ee en 225 CONTENTS IX. CHAPTER XXXI. NU MLOr OT OWEDN ecm One Lt aaa eC AN UT yee ty 2 CHAPTER XXXII. MEATUS ACLU OS ee eed. ANIM LSS Ca NS Ls 246 CHAPTER XXXIII. ALD AGEL YS) yee Ueeh a kdap ae CR Le Sp AAEM OA AILS lf SAREE RNG eee 253 CHAPTER XXXIV. VETIVER VEN AGN CRRA eel CU UENNED EY PRE DARA | (0 se DUA | 266 CHAPTER XXXV. CCEA | AILS 1 ao EE ANU ICH Ra Ny RAE a BA Ug 272 CHAPTER XXXVI. PUT STGRI OM rer parr Late) en NAL aI GLOGS BA LO eee MeN MAREN’ HE Eh 278 CHAPTER XXXVII. rn emanciienin pilin ean ctr prec Mts wie! Ngee ay 9 hi 236 CHAPTER XXXVIII. CE PLRNM CEN C2 GEE | Rep autre Niel MORTON ARES ali A Anh EL Bila ed COE AU 297 CHAPTER XXXIX. (EA Ret ep a lol SH a yg 108) RET A ar Aso Oy Ae Se laren a ONE MEAS UN Ae AR oe 306 CHAPTER XL. [Netg CURT AN Tg Tag te A OPO) ae AT CCS AS CUR Se AUER Cte DLL OEY 310 CHAPTER XL PLS SPE ae met eu rd Ra Nm Mar OL ASEAN G CELL MSU de 320 CHAPTER XLII. Pcidents. On tie! OLegOn Wa LAL yeu Cth, ce ued sy uae 329 CHAPTER XLIII. PUVETEOR TTA TARTS Cor neler ke RE ARR EUS NL ALU TN 345 CHAPTER XLIV PETAL AUT WVGEAT Sante ae ee) MTU a ORCI at gd 351 FIallerise REET tice L eee el al 351 STETTOC IS LIOL Cen ices tere NRRL Rely eee Sune al 359 Chieti osepn a Campalonwers once ue 370 CHAPTER XLV: “Washington Territory West of the Cascades” Addendum GREETINGS! N THIS, my ninety-first birthday and publication date of this volume, with thankfulness in my heart for the many blessings vouchsafed to me by Divine Provi- dence, with good health and cheerfulness of mind, I extend this greeting to friends and strangers alike; to the few Comrades of “Ye olden time” left in this mundane sphere and to the generations that have followed in the suc- cession of years. That world conditions are different than when I first saw the light of day 91 years ago, or when Washington was created, (now so near 70 years ago), or even 5O years, within the memory of many now living in our midst is only evidence of the inscrutable ways of Providence measuring the cycles of time for the betterment of the race. In acknowledging that conditions are better; that the average comforts of life are greater; that the march of the nations toward a higher civilization has advanced; that altru- ism is more prevalent; that happenings of the races has progressed and improving, is only an acknowledgement of divine power. That there may come a time when crime in the world will cease; when war between nations shall be no more; when suffering will have disappeared, all ardently wish even to the point of a hope. Realizing we have a duty to perform un- der God’s overruling providence; that each has in his power to better world conditions; that we are instruments in the hands of God to carry forward His plan, let us all accept the re- sponsibility with cheerfulness and joy and strive for the upbuilding and happiness of the race. EZRA MEEKER CHAPTER I. REMINISCENT “Oh, that mine enemy should write a book.” Writing a Book at 90—What to Name It—Crossed the_Plains Nearly 70 Years Ago—In Washington Ever Since—Decision Arrived at—“Washington’s 70 Years of Progress” —Cabin on the Majestic Columbia—Food Prices Sky High—Whisky Alone Cheap—Cry of Cougar Heard at Night—Catching Saw Logs Brought Down by Freshet—Made Good at it— Location not Satisfactory—Decided on Moving to Sound. Well, here I am in my ninety-first year, writing a book. An enemy has no terrors for me, however much I may regret ill-feeling on the part of anyone, as, in the natural course of events, I shall soon be called to another sphere of action; but in this sunshine of ninety years of life I owe no man a grudge, and from outward ap- pearance, no one holds aught against me. “And what are you going to name your book?” I am asked. A gifted authoress once told me that she had never selected a title until the book was written, and then fitted the title to the subject matter in the book. I couldn’t do that if I would, and what’s more, I wouldn’t if I could. I must have a definite mark to shoot at; some objective point to concentrate upon; some push behind to urge me on. The authoress is undoubtedly right from her point of view, but that will not serve me. So, I have selected a title in advance of the writing. Things were very different when I was born, ninety years ago, from what they are in the world today. I have had in mind to write of affairs in my life of ninety years. Bearing in mind that ten years of my boyhood be SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS days did not impress me like later years, and that to a considerable extent my intention is to bear personal testimony where possible toward the correct relation of events, I could not conclude to name the whole period of my life as a part of the title. Then to what extent shall I curtail the time, as I had determined to write of one theme, “Progress”; and what territory should I cover? Shall I undertake to cover the world’s progress? Or, only the United States? Neither of these suited my fancy, in fact, each loomed up as such a big job that my resolution quailed. Anyway, that was not what I had had in mind. Nearly seventy years ago I had come out on the Plains with an ox-team, accompanied by a precious young wife and the finest baby boy in the world (our opinion, you know) bound for the Oregon country. I was young then, not yet twenty-two, full of ambition; and by the way, have some left yet. My wife was not yet twenty, but full of confidence in the future; the baby boy but eight weeks old when we crossed the Missouri River, but better natured than his father had been reported to be when a “brat,” as one woman (I won't call her lady) once called me to my mother’s face. Well, as I said, we thought ours was the finest, cutest baby in all the world. Why, we had not been on the road long till my wife would put a blanket on the ground, right on the dirty ground, mind you, and dump the baby on it and leave him there while she got the camp supper; it was not long till he would roll around and actually suck his thumb. We thought it was the funniest thing in all the world. Well, that’s the way with all young parents, I guess. The crossing of the Missouri River and crossing the Plains to the Oregon country was a great event in my life, following closely on the greater event of a happy marriage before I had reached the twenty-first year of my life. Why not affix the date of my writing to these two great events? That didn’t yet seem satis- factory; it was too personal; besides, it was not what REMINISCENT 13 had been running in my mind when the thought of writing presented itself. We had reached the Oregon country in safety, some- what reduced in strength, and for myself, the loss of twenty pounds in weight; but our ambition remained with us. We had come to the Oregon country to get a farm such as Uncle Sam then gave to settlers, one hundred and sixty acres each, to man and wife, separate owner- ship, and the first thing to look after was to find the land. If the reader will take the trouble to look at the frontispiece, he will there see a cabin pictured (No. 7). That is an exact picture of the cabin we built on the spot where Kalama town now stands, on the right bank of the Columbia River, about forty miles distant from Portland, Oregon. In a few weeks after we had got under shelter in our cabin, another child was born. Congress named it Washington Territory, and lo and behold, we were not living in Oregon, but in the new Territory! Another great event! Here we were, with our fortunes cast with the destiny of a new State, although at the time but two persons, with a fraction over (whites, I mean, for there were fifteen thousand Indians), to a town- ship of land of thirty-six sections—23,040 acres—vir- tually an uninhabitated country, of a verity (surety) at the beginning. We loved the very thought of that child, remained with it in its long territorial minority, rejoiced when it was clothed with State Manhood thirty- six years later, and are yet here when nearly two million people occupy the space where less than four thousand could be counted at the beginning. Here, now, was another great event in one’s life. Not a single indi- vidual, save possibly one other adult, who was here at that time, is left but myself; all gone to their long home; the generation of that day has passed and a majority of a second called, and lo and behold, I am 14 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS left! Why, I thought, that’s the date; take the three great events, averaging the dates and rounding the numbers for convenience, and call it seventy and we have the key to the title, “Washington’s Seventy Years of Progress.” In the fac-simile copy of my first book, reproduced and bound under this cover, entitled “Washington Terri- tory West of the Cascade Mountains,” the reader will find the boundaries defined of that portion of the State lying West of the Mountains named in the title; also in the same book a description and boundary of the eastern part and remainder of the State, from the pen of Philip Ritz. A history of this book and interesting events connected with its publication will be related later. For the present, we must go back to the cabin ‘‘where rolls the Oregon,” a majestic River more than a mile wide, and a channel deep enough for what we thought at the time, great ships to navigate, drawing eighteen feet of water—a mighty River indeed! We discovered that at intervals the current ceased to flow down stream and sometimes would go the other way. We had always been taught that water wouldn’t run up hill, but here it did, or at least appeared to, for the current would run up-river way. Some mysterious power, seventy miles distant at the mouth of the river, met the down-river current; the rush of the ocean tides, piled up the contending currents of water till the mastery rested with the sea and the flow of the river water checked, and as I have said, turned up- river way. The fire on the cabin hearth burned bright and cheerful, albeit things around about us didn’t seem so bright. A deep snow had fallen in December. The price of cattle feed went up sky-high; in fact, one might say, couldn’t be bought for love or money. We had to give up our last and favorite cow to save the last yoke of oxen; flour sold at fifty dollars a barrel, REMINISCENT 15 potatoes, three dollars a bushel—everything high except whisky, and that we didn’t want. I had never drunk the stuff but once and that was when I was a boy eight years old. Some brute or fool had discovered myself and two other boys playing in the basement of a mill at Lockland, Ohio, and gave us some whisky to drink. We didn’t know what it was, but soon began to feel funny, then ugly and fell to fighting near a great big pile of bran, got down in the bran and got our eyes and ears full of it. Father found me in this fix, took me up to the top story of the mill and gave me a good trouncing, as he called it—beating, as I thought of it, and sent me home. I don’t remember that he had ever struck me before and I am sure he never did afterwards. My! but didn’t my blood boil with indignation; I hadn’t intended doing anything wrong—didn’t know any better, and then to be beaten for it—well, it sobered me off and I ran home as fast as my legs could carry me, to my mother. The tender stroke of my mother’s hands to my torn heart; the tears that dropped from her eyes on my hands, made such a lasting impression upon my mind that I never forgot it. But I will write about this whisky business and of the progress made by the adoption of that righteous act—Prohibition, later. But let us get back to the cabin. It was the first home we ever owned. We had not “kept house,” in Indiana and had been a year on the road, simply sojourned in Iowa for the winter; hence it is small wonder that we clung to the cabin in a restful mood with the hope that we might find it a permanent home. The cabin stood about a hundred yards back from the river, just above the river bottom, and on the rather steep slope of a solid, rocky bank, with a door and projecting roof on the river view end, and with three or four rather steep steps to reach the floor level. The side walls of the cabin were barely high enough to enable us to stand up straight inside when the roof 16 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS was on; the clapboard roof protected us from the rain and served as ceiling above our heads, while the ridge- poles served in the place of a closet where extra articles, when not in use, might be stored. At the back end, a low cobble-stone chimney served to keep the inner cabin clear of smoke from the cheerful fire that not only warmed the cabin, but likewise served as the kitchen range, without cover, upon which to cook the simple food, and to provide light as well. We had graded into the hill a little for the rear end of the cabin, so that, with the rise of the hillside next to the chimney, one could look down to the fire below without craning his neck. On several occasion, of nights, we heard noises, not like the howl of a wolf, but more like the scream of a frightened woman, which we thought, and I think so yet,—-was a cougar prowling in the brush and timber near by. The little wife became uneasy, fearing the “thing”? might come down the chimney, but I quieted her fears by claiming there was no more danger of that than that Santa Claus as pictured, would come that way. Afterwards, I learned that these animals were dangerous when pressed by hunger and that a child had been killed by one. Anyway, I would prefer to have a good stout cabin wall between me and one of them than to meet it in open combat, as did one of our pioneers, a Mr. Stocking, who, be it said, killed his antagonist in a hand to hand fight. The furniture, all home-made, consisted of a table made of some drift lumber, picked up in the Columbia River, stools instead of chairs, a folding bed with wooden hinges near the floor, to close up against the wall during the day. Moss between the logs, closely packed (caulked will express it), served to keep gusts of wind out and confine the heat of the fire to keep the cabin warm and comfortable, albeit the roof supplied abundance of ventilation. REMINISCENT 17 The site upon which this cabin stood is but a little over a stone’s throw from where the Northern Pacific Railroad depot at Kalama now stands. The cabin has long since disappeared, but I can yet identify the spot upon which it stood. We had taken this squatter claim from sheer neces- sity to secure a place where I could provide a roof over our heads and shelter from the storms then pre- vailing (January 1853), not because the location suited us; it was far below the ideals pictured in our imagi- nation when preparing to leave Indiana in search of a Western home. We could not go further at the time. The trip across the plains with the ox and cow team had exhausted our scant accumulations, and so with cheerful submission to necessity, the claim was taken, the cabin built and clearing land begun. Soon after, a dire calamity overtook the pioneers of the up-river region. The snow melted rapidly, accom- panied by warm rains; the floods came; the Columbia River became a vast field of driftwood, parts of houses, hay stacks, lumber, sawlogs, in a word, something of all kinds of property imaginable. We, (when I say we now I mean myself, brother and an Indiana neighbor boy) instantly sailed out in our small boat, catching saw logs and towing them into a place of safety, working even by moonlight as well as all day—no eight or five hours a day there. When the flood subsided we tackled giant trees that stood near the water’s edge and handlogged for a month to supplement our drift logs, when lo and behold, we finished with Eight Hundred Dollars in our pockets, and I had money enough to go to Puget Sound. Now, I have been purposely personal in this nar- rative, because I could in no other way illustrate what pioneer life meant at that particular time. Many other pioneers had a like experience and could have told a similar story, but nearly all have joined the majority in the unknown mysterious life. 18 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS But just now, let us take a further peep into pioneer life in the cabin. We had left the great Mississippi Valley with its wonderful fertile prairies, its vast extent then sparsely inhabited, to go to the Oregon country, yet a land of mystery—unexplored, uninhabited, one might almost say. The same might be said of Iowa. I remember one bitter cold day of the winter of 1851-52 of traveling thirty-five miles between cabins, in the western part of Iowa,—a long stretch of rich, unoccu- pied land that held no attractions for me, as I wanted to get out to where ships could “go down into the sea,” not to be a sailor or to follow the sea, but to be out. accessible to the great wide world. We did not for an instant give up the resolution that we were going to the Oregon country to be farmers, which resolution by the way, we steadily adhered to, as the sequel will show; but here now, as we looked out of the cabin window, what did we see? A stony hillside skirting the valley; a narrow valley covered with forest and brush, subject to overflow in front; great forests of giant timber, and in the nearby surroundings of the cabin, utterly precluding the thought of neighboring farms in the future; no neighbors nearer than three miles; no road; nothing, in a word, that we had pictured in our own minds to find. I had practiced deceit with my wife in assuming a cheerfulness I did not feel; I came to know that she on her part, was doing the same thing; but this could not go on always, so one day we made a confession, and whether manly or wom- anly or not, turned loose our disappointment in tears and soon felt the better for it. A week after the “confession,” accompanied by my brother Oliver, we struck the trail for Puget Sound, : with the sky as our roof, Mother earth as our bed, sweet sleep as our comforter and a keen appetite to add pleasure to the trip. Pleasure did you say? I can imagine some readers inquiringly exclaim. Yes, real genuine pleasure. I could sleep as soundly as if on a bed of down; enjoy a rest denied the sluggards or lag- G¢ LV YUAAITO WHALOUE 66 LV YAMHHW Vaz REMINISCENT 19 gards searching for soft jobs. Nature was putting on her best new dress for it was spring time; the flowers shone bright; the silver tips on the evergreen trees brighter, like the home Christmas tree; the snow-capped mountains in the distance and no less fascinating snow- covered mountain ranges in sight. The deep toned hoot of the grouse answering the call of his mate, the thrumming of the pheasant like to the roll of distant thunder, all lent irresistible charm to the scene to draw one’s mind from the fatigue of the trail. Then the everlasting, never-ending green of the forests; the sub- dued, variegated verdure of the carpet beneath; the moss, the ferns, the budding wild fruit; the fragrance of the primeval forests, combined to enhance the pleas- ures of the scene. I have never regretted that trip to the sound, the result of which the reader, if possessed of patience to follow the thread of the “Progress of Washington,” will know, as all subsequent years of my life have been identified with the territory and state, from the beginning. CHAPTER II. STATE AND COUNTY STATISTICS First Governor of Territory Appointed—Arrived November 25th, 1858—Heavy Responsibilities on His Shoulders—Less Than 4,000 Eligible for Citizenship—Election Ordered—Legis- lature Convened February, 1854—Creation of Counties Begun —Continued to Present Time—39 Now—Pend Orielle Last Created—Table of Statistics. The appointment of a Governor and full complement of territorial officers quickly followed the passage of the act creating the territory, but the organization was delayed for nearly a year awaiting the arrival of the Governor. The appointee, Isaac I. Stevens, had been loaded down with responsibilities. He was charged with the duty to reconnoiter (survey, we pioneers called it) the northern zone to determine the feasibility of constructing a railroad from the Great Lakes to the new territory and did not arrive at the capital until November 25th, 1853. He was also charged with the responsibility of making treaties with the Indians. His first duty, that of making the survey, resulted in a grand work; a monument to his energy and ability to perform the duty assigned to him. A census had been taken developing the fact of there being less than four thousand people entitled to citizenship within the borders of the territory (less than two to the township). An election was immediately ordered and on the twenty-seventh of February, 1854, a legislature con- vened and the territory became a live political unit in fact as well as in name. STATE AND COUNTY STATISTICS 21 A potent, and we may almost say a determining fac- tor, that resulted in the division of the Oregon country, into two territories was the great difficulty of reaching the capital. It seems now, bordering on the ridiculous to create a territorial government where there were scarcely citizens enough to fill all the offices. Doubt- less there existed a dominating political reason causing the central government to lend a willing ear to the proposition of creating a new territory in the fact there were ‘More political pegs than holes” and such a move would supply many new “holes.” After all, it transpired the move proved to be a wise one. While the division lessened the difficulties and delays of reaching the capital, there still remained the hazard oftentimes of long detention. At the close of the first legislature one of the brightest members lost his life almost in sight of Seattle by the swamping of the canoe in which he was traveling on his return from Olympia. In fact, at that time, there was no other way he could travel from the capital to his home in Seattle. No roads were opened parallel with the Sound; no ferries established on the two dangerous rivers to be crossed; no passenger boats of any kind on the Sound and no alternative existed other than to accept the hazard of a winter trip in a canoe. It is different now as the reader will see by turning to other chapters of this volume. The creation of new counties by the first legislature began at once and has been continued intermittently until the State is divided into thirty-nine; the last, Pend Oreille, March 1, 1911. By scanning the table following, the reader can at a glance, see the name, date of organization, area and population in decades from date of organization as reported by the U. S. census. SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS OTL‘*S9 6681S g8o‘0¢ 689°LS ZLE‘S LOS‘3s G09‘TS 682° IFT 069°L9 GLe‘S 888'ss g09°s LOUPPT €98°9 168‘°FT F60°LT 616'F TP‘St OVL‘9S 892'6 O8g*LT GOL SE 0FZ'68E Lg¢‘9 68h°9 ZLS‘FP TLL‘h G13°S LL8°S Sr1'sS 2686 T6L‘IT £60°9 G08°ZS 892° IT Z08°S €06‘0T 6S3°9 €29°6 129‘9S8'‘T 60L‘TP G8Z‘°Ss TIS‘6F T86‘T G82'8 T89°LT 162°S2 bOr‘6ST 603‘6S L88°Z T¥G'66 €09°E Z18‘031 rasa & L88°SI 9ST‘ 689°LT LOL‘3S O8T‘OT T9S‘8T LEO LT 8E9‘F8Z LEe‘8 vOLd 069°S§ 869'8 661° SSI‘g 008F LZo‘6 T9S°ST Zv0'L SIT‘9Z ggL‘9 bOLst LE6‘L T¢8‘¢ 026‘0T 066‘TFI'T Z9P‘ST 098°SZ 916°FS 089‘8T 618% LG6‘°6 Srs‘OL Zva‘Lg 096°S3 889'T €OT‘SIs ay a = 680° G98T BuUIye x gs a te ate 80ls TL8T uBwzIyM rss os 80°C GST alee 2s Wie meen Ged UI0d}BU MM 00g‘ L6a‘T G9c‘T P98T! Sz Ay Sem eiIeM OLZ IP L9Z PEsl ‘eg "adwoues - UUNyBIyyeM 992s G6r‘T 60L aest. St caer to uoysiny, J, } —_ on) See re 9938'S C097) ten. er ten eae eee SU9AIZTS rai vL9 9SL‘T 6L2IS OS Oe ae euvyodg 664 < ao ag 790‘Z {Sic yh ete ystuoyoug SST ELT G89‘T FSSE Gh- Ree ee BIUBULBYS > os eer PLL S88T eS re soe So. 2a = SLT SL8T uenf ueg 60F‘T PITT TOL‘T 2961. "Zon (Se san eae es ad191g a= s Sere ie Port LI6T aPeuIOQ pusd SEL 907 669: «2 a ee eee ee ayloedg Sak _—<—— Sea ae 1Z2'¢ Q88T Eg te LR SCOURS) 682 Z9T 086 FIST ST ASN oo ae eee uosey jee 5 si os Z08‘Z S88T Se Bae OLS 888 988 698% OPST. “Ter sead + ss ae StMo'] 628 0&2 GZ8‘T 6981 -02- ee a EW YIM Sy 2s ade cee 628‘ OS8T SBzIFII 908 Org ILs LS8T deszry 021% 108 tiie Sant 12 - l suly 892'T 82S LPL‘T SOOT. “Ce. Ree uosia yar 929 G66 80Z T6SG LS FRI ee ee puejs] 10Pr $82 LZ6‘T POST: ‘Si. “ady oS loqiey Sheay ee ss gph tase 0ZL‘Z GOGT- P2208 a eee Sa Ie a r69 T8st ployley ee” ee 902‘T S881 UlPUBA YT iy aoe 0222 668T A119 J i Pe =r eri L8L‘T E88T sel snog 08h SOP SSl‘T PSst ZY MOD =f sane ete 88 GL8T ‘TL “AON TTT BIQUANTOD T80‘8 L89°S reo GFT a] (any. Se ayABILO 80F 6PT 9Z1‘T yost ‘of yes wee a ae Scene 006‘Z 6681 “el “a8 re — ee: Serine TLO‘T CGT. MeN ae wie ee Ser a 909 $881 uljosy mas oe ea ZI6‘T S881 suepy ES‘ LSS 9IT‘SL O98 SS - Saae pee ee ae ee ee eS ee ne 2784S 0681 O88T OL8T 098T voly peziuesig eyed sorzunog 0z26T *dog OT6T “dog 006T "dog “dog “dog “dog “dog CHAPTER IIL. RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT Beginning of Railroading in the U. S.—Almost Contemporaneous With Birth of Author—Opposition Encountered at First— The Days of the Stage Coach—Plans Advanced for Building of Railroad to Coast—The N. P. Most Important for De- velopment—Opposition from Both California and Oregon— In June, 1870, First Work Begun—Meeting With Jay Cooke in New York—Road Financed—Development in Washing- ton—Slow at First—Serious Obstacles Encountered—First R. R. in State—Columbia River and Puget Sound Road Completed—Great Development in Later Years—Network of Roads Now in State—Hlectric Roads—Great Possibilities in Future. In as important a subject as that of railroads to be considered in this chapter, it is permissible to go back of the arbitrary date of seventy years to get a perfect retrospective view from the beginning, a little over ninety years, and note its growth from infancy. As stated elsewhere in this volume, the beginning of railroads in the United States dates about the year 1827 when the idea first seized upon the minds of our forbears to transport freight on cars to run on a con- tinuous track. This idea soon expanded to carrying passengers as well and the foundation was laid for the great development that followed. I may almost say I was born contemporaneously with the birth of railroads (1827-1830) in the United States and have the unique experience vouchsafed to but few of having witnessed the whole transformation of world affairs and particu- larly of the United States because of it. As already noted, for two decades and even longer a very pro- nounced opposition to the building of railroads was manifest. As a boy and as a lad in my “teens” I 24 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS often heard excited controversy on the subject, but like the opposition to the introduction of labor saving ma- chines it finally disappeared. Of course the first track and cars were very crude affairs and fit subjects for condemnation for other reasons than for destroying the wagoner’s business and closing the roadside inns all along the line. Quite recently (1915) I drove along the line of the old National road (known also as the Cumberland road) from Washington city to the near vicinity of St. Louis and drank in the scenes of the old stage stations; and could all but imagine hearing the horn to note the arrival; see the hurry and scurry to unhitch and hitch the four or six-in-hand; hear the fading sound of the grating wheels as they turned the last corner. The remains of these stations are there yet where the roaring fire crackled and sent forth good cheer, too often to be supplemented by the contents of the decanter; where statesmen, on their way to and from the Capital, tarried, slept and ate; where the news of the day posted within served instead of newspapers of today; where stories of frontier life were exchanged, stories of heroism and suffering, of altruism, of merriment to gladden the pioneer heart. Small wonder the pioneers of that day were loath to give up the joys of the stage coach for the jolting railway carriage of early experience. The stage coach disappeared from the Cumberland road only to appear again in greater glory under more trying and dangerous surroundings on the Plains of the then West as a forerunner of the railroad soon to follow —opening the way for the irrepressible unrelenting movement West. The introduction of the stage coach into Washington was an adventure following the ox teams of the pioneers who came braving an element of danger; both paving the way for the greater financial hazard of the railroad. The Northern Pacific Railroad though not the first in point of time built within the borders of the terri- tory, easily became the most important in the develop- RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 25 ment of the embryo state. The earliest mention of a projected transcontinental railroad of which there is any record was by a Dr. Samuel Bancroft Barlow in 1834, advocating the building of a road over the North- ern Pacific route. He must have been a man of vision as he used the identical arguments later put forward immediately preceding the building, and assembled facts that would seem incredible in view of the developments in railroad building prior to that date. Then came Dr. Parker, the Missionary, predicting in 1835 the building of a railroad over the same route as he followed the route of the Oregon trail in company with Marcus Whitman through the South Pass to the rendezvous at Ft. Bridger. Then followed Asa Whitney in 1846, again using the same arguments for a railroad from Lake Michigan to Puget Sound; shortest route; lightest snow; continu- ous soil suitable for settlement; tapping the Oriental trade, etc., familiar talk heard later. Whitney spent a fortune and seven years of effort to get a land grant, failed and died in poverty. At a railroad convention held in St. Louis (1849), participated in by Stephen A. Douglas and other prom- inent men in which Whitney’s map was used describing the route from Chicago to Council Bluff, through the South Pass, over the Cascade Mountains to Fort Nis- qually on Puget Sound; but the vehement Benton’s attention was arrested and we then first heard a south- ern route mentioned. One more adventurer, a Dr. Carter, in 1848 or 1849 rushed to the front to secure a charter for a railroad from Lake Michigan by way of the South Pass to San Francisco with a branch to the mouth of the Columbia River. His career was short lived and nothing came of his effort. It is well to note that all these projects of a trans- continental line looked to the South Pass (the Oregon trail route over the Rocky Mountains) known then and 26 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS ever since admitted to be the most feasible route across this formidable barrier. Then why did not the Union Pacific, the first continental road, build through this pass, the reader will ask. I met General Dodge, chief engineer of the road—who pointed the way—at Council Bluffs, Iowa, in 1911, a few years before his death, and asked him this same question. General Dodge informed me he did recommend building the road through the South Pass but was over-ruled by the directorate because of the discovery of coal south of the pass and the line was located to reach the coal fields, though admittedly over a less favorable through route. When I last saw General Dodge he was a very old man, yet stood erect and with his mental faculties unim- paired. He talked freely of this episode and seemed to regret that he had been overruled, believing that a branch line to the coal fields would have been a better solution of this important matter. The General came out in company with many others to join the group in the moving picture scene on the streets of Council Bluffs, with my Oregon trail ox team outfit, just arrived from the Pacific Coast, in the background. The film is deposited in the Washington State historical room at Tacoma with the wagon, also the oxen mounted. An eminent engineer, Edwin F. Johnson, through a long investigation ending in 1853 advocated a route from Lake Michigan via Fort Colville to Bellingham. John- son made the fatal mistake of laying his information before Jeff Davis, then Secretary of War, who imme- diately formed a combination of Southern Leaders all agreed that no railroad should be built to the Pacific, north of the 35th parallel. The discovery of gold in California brought speedy developments overshadowing the Oregon country in population and wealth, giving statehood and votes in Congress and presented a barrier for a Northern line that could not be overcome for many long years. So long as California could prevent the building of a Northern line direct to the East, RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 2E just so long could she hold the trade of the North country, and held Oregon and Washington firmly in her grip until the Northern Pacific line was built to the Oregon railroad connection; then Oregon took the place of California as far as Washington was concerned, throttled direct trade to the East as far as possible and secured all of the trade from the Eastern half of Washington, appropriated the profits of the whole transcontinental line by the unconscionable rates charged on the short line through the Columbia river gap and held the Northern Pacific in its grip and at the mercy of the Oregon interests. Encouraged by their success the management came out boldly against the direct line to Puget Sound over the Cascade Mountains but reckoned without their hosts as the sequel shows. Next in order came the so-called survey by Isaac I. Stevens, in 1853—reconnaisance—under Government authority, demonstrating the feasibility of the Northern route and raising high hopes of a speedy construction of the road. Finally in 1864 the congress granted a charter and a land grant of twenty alternate sections on each side of the line in States and forty in terri- tories to the Northern Pacific Company along the line substantially as outlined by Governor Stevens upon which the road was finally built. Congress had pre- viously granted lands and guarantee of bonds to the Union and Central Pacific for a line from the Missouri River to San Francisco but refused to go further than to grant lands to the Northern Pacific. Political and local jealousy combined contributed to this result. The slave power as before mentioned had opposed any meas- ure in congress looking toward giving aid to a Northern line; then came the specious plea that one transcon- tinental line would suffice to accommodate the trade for many decades. So long as the Southern interests could defeat or delay the building of a Northern line, so long the San Francisco interests could control the Northern trade. And so it went from decade to decade, dis- 28 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS appointment following disappointment until forty years elapsed from the time the first company was formed to build over the Northern Pacific route before the final completion of the road during the year 1887, when the last spike was driven on the Cascade division direct to Puget Sound over the Cascade mountains. In June of 1870, at a point named “‘Thomson’s Junc- tion” in the State of Minnesota, a few miles northwest of Duluth (then but a village on the shores of Lake Superior) construction work was begun. In common parlance the line began nowhere and ended nowhere. In blissful ignorance of what was happening in the far East a syndicate of 83 pioneers were gathering their resources to meet the printing bill for the book “‘Wasz- ington Territory West of the Cascade Mountains’. On my part about twice a month for the summer I would gather my manuscript and data together and “Strike out” for Olympia, a walk of thirty-five miles. I can truly say they were pleasant walks—walks of abstrac- tion, hence one might almost say without fatigue. As before written I had entered upon the work with reluc- tance: I did not believe myself competent to do justice to the subject; with scant school days I knew the difficulty that would beset me. To my surprise as the work progressed, the syndicates committee began to commend the effort in such extravagant language that caused me to almost distrust their candor. As the “Little book’, as we were wont to call it, is reproduced . and bound within the cover of this volume, each reader must judge for himself or herself as to its merits or demerits. For six years after congress granted the charter promoters struggled to obtain funds to warrant undertaking construction work and ignominiously failed. Finally Jay Cooke appeared on the field, or rather the discouraged promoters sought him out to assemble the funds necessary to construct the line, estimated at a hundred million dollars. It was at this juncture I met Mr. Cooke in New York as related elsewhere. After a short season in New England I hastened to RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 29 Philadelphia and entered into the campaign of publicity, .not only to advertise the railroad securities but all the territory adjacent to the route including our own terri- tory of Washington and Puget Sound in particular. Mr. Cooke, in taking over all my books and paying a liberal price for them, jocularly remarked they could not tolerate competition in advertising the Northwest and upon my arrival in Philadelphia assigned me a desk in the second story above the bank saying, in lighter vein, he had no room for volunteers; in other words I would be placed on the pay-roll of their adver- tising department. After my experience in New York and New England and now in Philadelphia, the world seemed bigger than I had thought of it in my pioneer- ing experience in a region of scant population, or per- haps it might be more accurate to say of my own little- ness, but Mr. Cooke’s demeanor reassured me to think of myself as a cog in the wheel of the great machinery of life. The six printing presses were running (the same, I was told with pride, that turned off the advertising matter for the United States bonds during the war of the rebellion) that had saved the Government from bankruptcy and had won the war, printing advertising matter of the proposed railroad and the country through which it ran. Each day, and sometimes twice a day, a truck carried off to the Post Office a load of this, a ton weight some days or even more; eleven hundred newspapers were carrying advertisements of the great project, many with editorials supplied from the room above the bank. I was bid to “make myself at home” and as the spirit moved me to write correspondence as from Olympia on Puget Sound or in form of editor- ials for papers. Mr. Cooke frequently would send for me to meet intending investors in his office, sometimes to be looked upon as a curiosity, sometimes as a martyr having been buried “out there” away from civilization for twenty years, yet always with genuine, civil treat- ment by both ladies and gentlemen, for both thronged 30 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS the office at times. At the receiving windows of the bank two grey headed tellers were counting in the_ money in payment for bonds—tellers I was told who had grown grey in Mr. Cooke’s employ—whom I often met in the capacious dining room in the basement of the bank where all employees were invited guests for a lunch (a good dinner I called it) large enough to seat sixty or more persons. With three full tables, all the employees of the bank, a jolly merry crowd, turned loose as boisterous as ever a lot of school children at play. The call at Mr. Cooke’s office referred to gave me an accurate insight into the policy of the company as Mr. Cooke spoke with great candor to inquiring visitors. The work he said was begun on the Columbia River that the terminus might not be established at the Sound until the line was completed to the north boundary of Washington to secure the land grants of forty sections to the mile of completed road which he believed would sell for more than enough to pay for the construction. Branch lines under different names were to run in to tidewater at vantage points while the main line was finished to the Canadian boundary. Guests of high and low estate thronged to “Ogoutz’: generals of the army, cabinet officers, senators, ambassadors, financiers, none too high not to accept the bounteous hospitality offered, while there seemed to be none too low in social scale not to receive as cordial invitations from the great democratic financier. Mr. Cooke had built a palatial residence—castle would more accurately express it—a fifty-room palace at a cost of a million dollars a few miles out from the business center of Philadelphia. He named it “Ogoutz Place” after a noted Wyandotte chief. As many as eighty guests had been seated in the great dining room at one time. On the evening which I spent at the residence there were at least thirty besides the family, upon the occasion of Truman Evarts’ visit to Phila- delphia. Mr. Cooke thought it would be fitting to have the two western stories told to his invited guests and RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 31 so invited me to meet Mr. Evarts at the home. It was truly a remarkable story told by Mr. Evarts of his experience in the region now a part of the Yellowstone Park. Lost thirty-seven days in the wilderness, without food, fire or shelter, he wandered, living on thistle roots until his mind wandered and was finally rescued near death’s door. The expedition from which Mr. Evarts was lost confirmed the reports of this wonder of won- ders made by individual adventurers that heretofore had been received with incredulity until confirmed by organized exploration parties. Seventy years ago there was not a single mile of railroad in the state of Washington, nor for many years thereafter. This is not to be wondered at, there being only a small number of white people then domiciled within the confines of that extensive territory. It also must be borne in mind that the natural obstacles to railroad construction were many and great throughout all this Northwestern region. Rugged mountain ranges to be crossed, mighty rivers to be spanned; immense primeval forests to be penetrated and vast stretches of sandy waterless plains to be graded and ballasted. These were enough to appall the most daring financier and the most adventurous speculator; and were it not for the wonderful natural resources and advantages pos- sessed by the territory to more than offset the impedi- ments mentioned, it would undoubtedly have taken a much longer time than it has to cover the state with a network of steam and electric railroads as we find it today. The first operating steam railway in the state was the “Baker” road from Wallula on the Columbia River to Walla Walla, commonly known as the ‘rawhide” road. It was in operation, part of the thirty odd miles between these points, in 1871. Ten years previous to that time the Oregon Steam Navigation Company had a six-mile steam tramway from the upper to the lower cascades on the Columbia, in connection with their river steamers. But it can hardly be called a railroad. ah SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS The purpose of the Baker road was to carry the surplus wheat and flour of the productive Walla Walla Valley to the bank of the Columbia where it was trans- ferred to river steamers and thence taken to Portland. On the return, merchandise of all kinds was brought back for supplying the rapidly increasing population of that thriving town and surrounding country. This road lessened the transportation charge from Walla Walla to Portland $5.00 per ton. In May, 1870, ground was broken at Kalama on the Columbia River by the Northern Pacific R. R. Co., and in 1871, 25 miles built Northwards. On December 16, 1873, the last spike was driven on Commencement Bay and a little later the first through train from Col- umbia River to the Sound arrived at tidewater. Not long afterwards it was extended to Seattle, thence Northwards to the Canadian boundary line. It can readily be seen that railroad development in our state was at the beginning of very slow growth, owing principally to the difficulty of getting capital interested in such enterprises. J. Cooke and Co.’s failure materially retarded the opening up and develop- ment of the entire Northwest from Minnesota to the Pacific. But time seems to cure everything. In 1887 the N. P. was completed to the Sound. From that time on, as the great advantages of the State became better advertised and its superb location in relation to expanding oriental commerce became recognized by the big business men of the country, the great railrad magnates vied with one another in push- ing construction of their roads, so as to partake in the benefits to be derived from the immense traffic destined to enter the unequalled harbors on the sea coast and within the land-locked Sound. RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT oS Now five transcontinental railroad lines reach Wash- ington with mileage within the borders of the state and traffic service as follows: Total No. of Persons Tons of Freight Mileage Carried One Mile Carried One Mile Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul ...... 1,089.21 36,047,246 618,954,319 eseeete Nortneri i os oe ea ee be 1,586.70 100,127,943 753,761,721 ROSCOE Me MOT 1 ree aa Wie 5: 2,978.02 135,766,979 1,508,790,421 Oregon and Washington R. R. PNG WNC IO, aie Bete ec an sl 1,443.34 1,064,165 8,498,513 Canadian Pacific—Train from boundary to Seattle over Northern Pacific or Great Northern track; Spokane, International. There are, besides the transcontinental lines enter- ing the state, twenty-five independent local steam rail lines, aggregating 1268.81 miles, carrying annually 7,597,140 passengers and 356,713,480 tons of freight. The steam railways have now active competitors for business in twenty electrical railways within the state with an aggregate mileage of 1093.42 and carry- ing 156,567,509 passengers one mile per annum. The foregoing figures for steam and electrical rail- way development in the state of Washington are cer- tainly remarkable considering the fact that all this has been accomplished in the short space of 40 odd years. Greater progress than this no state in the Union has had. The ox gave way to the railway, the horse-car to the electric and gasoline motor and steam power. Now we are in the midst of a mighty struggle between steam on one side and gasoline and electricity on the other. It is a battle royal of the giants. Whether steam as a power will lose and drop out of the contest, is problem- atical; no man can tell; many, though, believe such will be the result. The recent electric operation of seven hundred miles of a transcontinental line—400 of it in our State—by the Milwaukee, where heavy trains pass over the mountain range daily, hauled by the elec- tric locomotive, motor, as we usually speak of them, 34 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS is a feat not thought possible a few years ago; but here now it is an accomplished fact and has passed out of the domain of experiment. As though this demonstration was not sufficient, the “‘tug of war” between the electric and steam loco- motives recently held near this City, where, after the result of the contest hung in the balance for a short period, the electric monster towed the steam giant off the field with the latter’s wheels spinning on a sanded track furiously resisting. We are now cutting most of our lumber, grinding most of our grain, propelling all our urban and inter- urban cars, many of our steamships and turning the wheels of manufactories by this mysterious power. What wonder next in the march of events? CHAPTER IV. TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL In Pioneer Days Traveling Difficult—Trip to Sound—Magnifi- cent Scenery—First Roads—Military Road Through Naches Pass—Pioneers Take a Hand in Work—Immigrants on Plains—Difficulties Encountered—Improvements of Later Years—State Highways Now Numerous—Large Appropria- tion Last Biennium—The Automobile an Important Factor —History of Its Development—Now Indispensable to Busi- ness—Important Factor in War—National Highways Neces- sary—Measure Before Congress—Automobiles in State. In the early days of pioneer life if we wanted to go anywhere we either walked, paddled a canoe or rowed a boat. If we wanted to move anything we either packed it on our backs or by horses (sometimes on an ox), often by a sled but rarely by wagon. I write of a time prior to general road construction. I had a little of this experience myself in a walk from the Columbia River to Puget Sound with a forty-pound pack on my back and can truly say I enjoyed life; slept sound arid had a keen appetite; wonders upon wonders unfolding before me every day and when we first caught sight of the four snow capped mountain peaks at one view, we forgot ever having been tired or hungry, or for that matter, everything else than the grand scenery. Then when we came on the great network of bays, channels and islands of Puget Sound and views of the mountain ranges to the East and to the West, it seemed like an enchanted land of solitude held for us to enjoy and possess. We literally had to “paddle our own canoe,” or row our own boat, if we traveled on the waters of the Sound which we did for thirty days. 36 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS The pioneers soon turned their attention to what they called roads; such as would be called trails now, but were wide enough to let wagons through by wind- ing about to avoid trees, big or little, leaving the sur- face much as nature had formed it, stumps, roots and all. “Dreadful,” some of my readers may exclaim. Yes, but it beat packing on the back of man or beast; besides, the pioneers didn’t stop to think about it: their errand was to “Get there,” and they did, as the sequel shows and came through with stalwart frames, healthy children, contented cheerful minds and, with many, a clear conscience of having done a duty to God and to mankind. The first through road from the Columbia River to the Sound began at Monticello, near the mouth of the Cowlitz River and ended at Tumwater, at the extreme Southern Point of Puget Sound, a distance of seventy miles. This on paper was a military road but I am not aware of any expenditure of the Government ever being made to either survey or improve it. Monticello was more a name than a town, being the farm house and outbuildings of Uncle Darb Huntington, as we all called him, with a blacksmith shop, store, two or three fam- ilies and a stable. Here the passengers were dumped off the little steamers from Portland and other Colum- bia River points, and here, in the earliest days, the hapless traveler either struck the trail (afterwards sup- planted by the road), or would tuck himself with others into a canoe, like sardines in a box, where an all-day journey up the Cowlitz River was his fate, unmoved and immovable except as an integral part of the frail craft that carried him to “Hard Bread’s” tavern for the night. We have taken a peep into Hard Bread’s hostelry in another chapter, and of the trail and canoe passage, but that was before the days of the road now under notice. At first, travelers to the Sound ascended the Cowlitz to the landing further up the river than where the mud-wagon road left the Cowlitz, and from the landing were sent on their way by saddle- TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL o7 train or over the makeshift of a road cut by the Sim- mons-Bush party in 1845, over which they dragged their effects on sleds to the head of the Sound, or to be specific, to the mouth of the Deschutes River, after- wards and now known as Tumwater, two miles south of Olympia. I have no history of the construction of the later road all the way up the right bank of the Cowlitz to the mouth of the Toutle River (Hard Bread’s), and thence deflecting northerly to the Chehalis, where the old and new routes were joined, and soon emerged into the gravelly prairies where there were natural road beds everywhere. The facts are, this road, like “Topsy,” just “growed,” and so, gradually became a highway one could scarcely say when the trail ceased to be simply a trail and the road actually could be called a road. First, only saddle-trains could pass. On the back of a stiff jointed, hard trotting, slow walking, contrary mule, I was initiated into the secret depths of the mud holes of this trail. And such mud holes! It became a stand- ing joke after the road was opened that a team would stall with an empty wagon going down hill, and I came very near having just such an experience once, within what is now the municipal limits of the thriving city of Chehalis. After the saddle train, came the mud wagons in Which passengers were conveyed (often invited to walk over bad places, or possibly preferred to walk), over either the roughest corduroy or deepest mud, the one bruising the muscles, the other straining the nerves in the anticipation of being dumped into the bottomless pit of mud. Now (1921) there is a hard surfaced road most of the way (and soon will be all the way), over which automobiles “Speed” thirty miles an hour between the points named and extending Northward to the British Columbia line and Southward to Vancouver, Washing- ton, and on through Oregon to the California line, and thence through California to the Mexican border. 38 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS Congress, early in the year 1853, appropriated $20,000.00 to build a military road through the Naches Pass from Fort Steilacoom on Puget Sound to Walla Walla, (Wallulu as we know it now), on the left bank of the Columbia River, a distance roughly estimated at 225 miles. This fund, only a “Drop in the bucket” of what would be required to accomplish such an object, did not become available to expend that year, was placed under the control of Capt. George B. McClellan who, the next year dissipated a portion of it in reputed exploration, finally turned over the remainder to be expended by E. J. Allen, a pioneer of 1852, who had been at the head of the pioneer working force, opening the road through the pass the previous year, as will be related later in this chapter. The pioneers would not wait; the immigration of 1853 was on the Plains, wending their way to the Oregon country; all would go down the Columbia or over the mountain south of that river into the Southern section of the old Oregon terri- tory unless instant action was taken to open a road over the mountain direct to Puget Sound; so the sturdy settlers resolutely took the seemingly impossible task in hand, sent two parties into the field and demonstrated that a way could be opened and secured the passage through of nearly a hundred wagons and three hundred people during the year 18538. At times the people and their cattle were on the verge of starvation. This “Way” could hardly be called a road. It is a tragic story but too long to tell in detail for lack of space. How they whip-sawed lumber from drift-wood and built a boat to cross the mighty river Columbia a few miles below its junction with the Snake; how they toiled in the sage plains parallel to the Yakima Valley, then with- out a white settler in it; how they struggled up the canyon of the Naches, sometimes cutting their way through tangled brush and timber; sometimes traveling over rounded boulders imbedded in sand bars, or in the river, ascending the mountain range to be compelled to let their wagons down the Western slope with ropes of raw-hide from cattle killed on the spot, all reads like TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 39 fiction, which it is not, but is a true story as I happen to know by experience. Now tourists may drive their automobiles most of the way and it is to be hoped, soon may all the way. It was a hazardous undertaking this and one may well say rash when it is known there were less than four thousand people all told in the new territory; but the pioneers did not shirk the task and sent forty of the eight hundred workers of the territory to clear a way that the immigrants might follow. One incident must suffice to relate the difficulties confronting the immigrants as told by the writer long years ago when memory served him better than now and witnesses then more numerous, most of whom have Since passed on to the beyond. “About twenty miles north of the great mountain of the Cascade range is a picturesque, small scope of open country known as Summit Prairie, in the Naches Pass, some seventy miles easterly from Tacoma. In this prairie, a camp of immigrants was to be seen. Go back they could not; either they must go ahead or starve in the mountains. A short way out from the camp a steep mountain declivity lay squarely across their track. As one of the ladies of the party said, when she first saw it, ‘Why Lawsee Massee, we have come to the jumping off place at last.’ This lady felt like many others of the party, that they had come to the end of the world (to them), and the exclamation was not for the stage effect, but one of fervent prayer for deliverance. “Stout hearts in the party were not to be deterred from making the effort to go ahead. Go around this hill they could not; go down it with logs trailed to the wagons, as they had done before, they could not, as the hill was so steep the logs would go end over end and be a danger instead of a help. The rope they had was run down the hill and found to be too short to reach the 40 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS bottom. One of the leaders of the party, James Biles, (I knew him well), turned to his men and said, ‘Kill a steer,’ and they killed a steer, cut his hide into strips and spliced it to the rope. It was found yet too short to reach the bottom. ‘The order went out, ‘Kill two more steers.’ And two more steers were killed, their hides cut into strips and spliced to the rope which then reached to the bottom of the hill; and by the aid of that rope and strips of the hides of those three steers, twenty-nine wagons were lowered down the mountain side to the bottom of the steep hill.” Now, a hundred and twenty-five miles of the way is covered by a road easily traversed by automobiles, forty of which is hard-surfaced, leaving less than forty in its primitive condition. By a recent official report we learn there are 2,976 miles of State highways in the State, of which 1,945 are improved; that is, either smooth gravelled or hard- surfaced with brick or cement: this does not take into account the network of local county roads to be found in each of the thirty-nine counties of the State exclu- sively under control of County authority, of a larger ageregate mileage. The report shows that during the bi-ennium just closed an expenditure of $11,725,330 in the aggregate was made and all on the policy of “Pay as you go.” The voters of the state have so far set their faces like flint against incurring state indebtedness and-are able to say, “Here we are without indebtedness and have a billion dollars assets in our roads and fourteen state institution buildings to show on the credit side of the ledger.” The total appropriation for state roads for the bi-ennium of 1921-22 is $12,490,000 all from state revenue; the policy is continued, “Pay as you go and keep the state out of debt.” TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 4] THE AUTOMOBILE Comes now a new substance, Gasoline, to contend with the giants of power for a place “in the Sun;’ to plow our soil, harvest our crops, enter our service in a multiplicity of ways, besides contending with steam and electricity in movement of freight and passengers. When and how this contest will end, no man can foretell. Whether the supply of the basic substance from which gasoline is made will eventually fail, or if it does, a new source of force will take its place, we can only conjecture. We know as long as the seasons follow in succession and the rains fall; the rivers continue to flow, the supply of electric power will never diminish or fail us, and so we feel assured that the automobile and the motor truck, the trackless car, has come to stay, and to believe that the electric automobile and motor cars will in due time take possession of the field. In all the vast changes that have taken place, per- haps there is no single instrumentality that has played a more important part in the daily affairs of men than the “Horseless wagon’, commonly known as the auto- mobile. For hundreds of years, progressive men have racked their brains in efforts to devise a vehicle that could be driven on an ordinary highway by some motive power other than the horse. But although at times a near approach was made to successful construction of such a vehicle, yet there was always encountered some prob- lem that could not be solved. So the untiring labors of those ambitious inventors came to naught. It was reserved for an ingenious Frenchman named M. Leon Serpollet, by application of the instantaneous generator in 1894, to overcome all serious difficulties, and by so doing he has been an instrument in the hands of Providence to revolutionize the transportation of the world. And by the way, it needed revolutioniz- 42, SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS ing. How vividly an old timer can remember the horrible conditions of what were called roads in pioneer days in this and other states; the mud holes, rocks and stumps only partially removed, the occasional impassable place that had to be corduroyed, and the steep hills that were almost impassable with even an empty wagon. All these things confronted the man who had taken up land for a homestead and upon which he sought to raise and market sufficient produce to keep himself and family in food and clothing. Without roads upon which he could take to market his surplus grain, vegetables and dairy products, he was compelled to live upon his own pro- duction. For years this condition had to be endured because the building of roads in such a State as Washington, with its immense primeval forests, its many ranges of high and rugged mountains, its mighty rivers and its vast stretches of sand and sagebrush, rendered such a task beyond the ability of a new and struggling com- monwealth to undertake. But the advent of the track- less car changed all this. Its advantages as a vehicular means of local travel soon became apparent; and later its great sphere of usefulness in the speedy and econ- omical transportation of freight, caused such a wide- spread and insistent demand for good roads, that pub- lic sentiment became thoroughly aroused, so that the counties separately and the State as a whole, appro- priated large sums for the construction of first class roads in every portion of the State. And still the good work goes on and will continue to go on until every nook and corner in the State will have a hard-surfaced road. Yes, the fever has even taken hold of Congress and large sums will soon become available for the building of several national highways traversing the land from North to South and from East to West. Who can doubt that this unity of purpose has been brought about through the universal interest of the American people in the improvement of automobile transportation. TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 43 When one views the continuous stream of auto travel at this date passing through the streets of our cities, both for transporting freight and personal locomotion, he would naturally infer that every kind of traveling is being done by automobile. While surely this would be a misconception, yet it is increasing so rapidly that it may become an absolute verity in the not distant future. Even now in long distance freight hauls, where the highways are suitable, auto freight trucks are enter- ing into competition with the railroads. And the time may come when the trackless car may not only supple- ment but largely take the place of our present railroads. The automobile has certainly made business more convenient and life more easy and enjoyable than in ye olden time. But whether the ‘“‘Buzz-wagon” is more conductive to the health and vigor of humanity than the old method of locomotion is very questionable. Its constant use impairs to a greater or less extent, the use of the limbs and tends to corpulency. However, the people like it and it is here to stay; and there is nothing to be gained by finding fault with it. For all must admit that it is an indispensable adjunct to high-pressure civilization. While all kinds of motor power have been used for propelling the automobile, gasoline has up to this time given the best satisfaction and is almost universally used for that purpose. However, there seems to be a widespread belief that the time will come when that mysterious agency, electricity, will become sufficiently amenable to human control to replace gasoline, steam, and everything of that nature now being used. Nor has the automobile been only of surpassing importance in improving the methods of transacting business in all branches of industrial activity; on the farm, in the logging camp, with the big manufacturing establishment, aiding the speedy delivery of merchan- dise from the wholesale to the retail merchant and 44 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS from the merchant to his customers at their homes; bringing the suburban resident from his remote home to his employment in the city without the loss of valu- able time; taking the physician to the bedside of the stricken patient in a few moments, where a slight delay might often prove fatal; all these of prime importance in our civil life. But it has also been found of vital importance where gigantic armies are contending for the mastery in the field of battle. In the great World War, we can all remember how a number of the fastest cars were always in readiness at Staff Headquarters for conveying the Military Commanders from one strategical point to another in the quickest possible time, when failure to get there in the nick of time might mean irreparable disaster. At the most crucial period of that great contest, when the victorious hosts of the German Imperial Army, flushed with recent successes over English, French and Belgian forces, were driving headlong towards Paris, their main objective, and when at the first battle of the Marne the destiny of the allied cause lay trem- bling in the balance, the automobile it was that saved the day and turned a seeming defeat into a glorious vic- tory. In order to check the advance of the Germans at that fateful crisis, it was necessary to have large rein- forcements hurriedly brought up in support of the left wing of the Allied Army which was bearing the brunt of the enemy attack, and if compelled to give way, the road to Paris would be open for the Huns. There were 100,000 troops in Paris but apparently no way of getting them to the front in time. At this critical juncture, Rene Viviani, Commander of the City, commandeered every auto in the metropolis, both passenger cars and trucks, loaded every fighting man in the city upon them and rushed them to the front. In a few hours, this formidable contingent appeared upon the scene of activities, inspired the hard-pressed allied soldiers with new courage, at the same time send- TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 45 ing dismay into the ranks of the enemy. In an irre- sistible advance, the gallant French Army drove the enemy back across the Marne; threatened his right Wing, causing a general retreat. The day was saved. A Great Battle was won! And the automobile achieved an imperishable record in the annals of war. But that was in Europe. Right here in our country the time may come when the trackless ear will play an important part in saving the day. Let no man delude himself with the idea that the day of wars has passed. Nations and individuals have engaged in deadly combat since the dawn of history and we feel no assurance that they will not grapple for mastery till time shall be no more. Whenever a man’s honor is assailed, his person assaulted or his property confiscated, he feels like fight- ing; and if there is red blood in his veins he will fight. So it is with nations. No country worth the name will stand to be bullied or imposed upon by another country. It is contrary to human nature to tamely submit to insult. Leagues of Nations, or International Conferences may at times be able to settle some differ- ences, or negotiate some compromise, but as sure as the sun shines in the heavens there will come a time when racial hates, commercial rivalries, or sectarian animosi- ties will become so strong, and popular feeling so inflamed that nothing less than the arbitrament of war can settle the disputes. Now the only way to minimize this inevitable danger is to be thoroughly prepared for all eventualities. This country has experienced the lack of preparedness on more than one important occa- sion and a recurrence of such a humiliating condition should never be allowed to occur again. Being pre- pared is a safe insurance against danger and disaster. One of the most important things in the line of preparedness, for a country like this, of such vast extent, is to have every means of transportation in first class condition, so that men and material could be 46 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS moved expeditiously to any point on either of our coast lines in numbers or quantities as may be needed. In order to accomplish that result, there must be more, many more good roads, so good that thousands upon thousands of motor cars heavily laden could travel over them at a high rate of speed. The few lines of railroads now traversing the continent would be totally inadequate in such an emergency. Therefore, great national high- ways should be constructed at the earliest possible moment, traversing the country from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Then we could feel as if we were able to meet any emergency, even though our army should remain numerically small. Nor is it alone as a matter of defense that such highways are now becoming of vital importance. Before we realize it, our present transcontinental railroad sys- tems will be unable to handle the increasing freight and passenger traffic from coast to coast, and it does not seem probable that any new through lines are likely to be built in the near future. Then there must ensue a paralysis of business, which is neither pleasant nor profitable to contemplate. In 1915, Congressman Humphrey, of Washington, introduced a bill in the House for the purpose of initiating measures leading to the construction of a National Highway from St. Louis, Mo., to Olympia, Wash., said road to follow as nearly as practicable, the route of the old “Oregon Trail’; said highway to be known as “Pioneer Way.” The author of this volume appeared before the House Committee on Military Affairs at that time and made a plea in behalf of the construction of said highway, alleging reasons why favorable action should be taken in the matter by Congress; namely, that from a senti- mental point of view, it would be a fitting tribute or monument to the hardy pioneers who traveled across mountains and deserts to penetrate the “Land of Mys- tery”, the Oregon country, which has now become one TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL AT of the most desirable and prosperous regions of the United States. Secondly, it would be a great factor in stimulating industrial activity in the many States through which it would pass, and afford a grand opportunity for the trackless car to demonstrate what it could accomplish in competition with the steam railroads in carrying freight across the continent. Stress was laid upon its absolute necessity as a feature of military preparedness, so that the country might not be caught napping when the emergency arose. He called attention to the won- derful developments that must inevitably come in the transportation business of the country through the universal employment of the trackless car for the move- ment of freight and the carrying of passengers. This measure, first introduced by Mr. Humphrey in the House, has been kept alive in the Senate by Senator Jones of Washington, who once succeeded in passing it through the Senate and it is now pending in Congress. It is proper to add in concluding this chapter that the State of Washington stands very close to the top in the number of automobiles owned according to popu- lation. In 1920 there were in this state 180,214 registered motor cars of all kinds while the population numbered 1,356,621, making a showing of one motor car for every seven and a half inhabitants. This is certainly a splendid showing and conclusively demonstrates that the “Evergreen State” maintains her old-time preeminence as a wide-awake, up to date and progressive commonwealth. CHAPTER V. TRIP TO NEW YORK Starting Out, 1870—Traveling Through Mud in Dead-Azle Wagon—On the “Briny Deep” in Decrepit Boat—Arrival in New York—Meeting With Horace Greeley—At Farmer’s Club —Flowers From Pacific Attract Attention—New England Audiences Amused at Author’s Appearance—Sharks in New York—Good Results From Publication of Book. On the fifth of December, 1870, at 3 o’clock in the morning, dark as pitch, I started for New York City with my precious cargo of 2500 copies of the book referred to and fifty-three varieties of flowers gathered the two preceding days in the gardens and commons of Olympia growing in the open air. These flowers were gathered at the instance of Mr. H. R. Woodard, of West Olympia, who assisted in gath- ering and arranging them for their long trip to the Atlantic seaboard. It will be more accurate, however, to say that I assisted him, as Mr. Woodard is entitled to the credit of making the collection ; otherwise, I would not have thought of doing it. The conveyance to the Columbia River consisted of what by courtesy was known as the stage, but in fact a mud wagon, well named indeed, as the sequel will show. It was a “dead axe” wagon, i. e., without springs and would give a fellow an appetite for dinner long before the dinner hour. And such mud! I am shy of telling the exact facts, lest someone would accuse me of exaggerating. I cannot recall how often we got out to pry up the wheels and lighten the load, nor how far we trudged TRIP TO NEW YORK A along to ease up the load. I exclaim again, such mud! In several instances, the space between the spokes would become clogged and loaded down and compel the driver to stop and clean it out. It’s different now. Now one can skip along over almost the whole route on a hard- surfaced road, the Pacific Highway, as smooth and solid as the best paved city street; and travel as far in three hours as the mud wagon could in three days. Portland was reached in due time and after a few days’ delay I boarded the steamer bound for San Fran- cisco, and cast my fortune on the waters of the great Columbia River and the wide sea of the Pacific. The steamer was small, for a sea-going vessel, old and decrepit, as no other could then be obtained for the route. The terrors of the Columbia River Bar Seemed present in the minds of the passengers as we floated on the placid waters of the great river. A recent wreck on the bar fanned the feeling of uneasiness in the minds of the passengers. The stench from bilge water and oil-burning lamps was enough to sicken one without drawing on the imagination. As we entered the approach to the bar, several ran to the rail, in which I led, to feel incensed, and to wonder how anyone could be so heartless as to laugh at the calamity overtaking others. NOTE: As I write, a vague feeling of uneasiness . at the pit of my stomach has seized upon me at the thought of the scene I am trying to describe. I could readily have punched the culprit for laughing, follow- ing my inclination; but no sooner did I get relief than I could not restrain an immoderate laugh at the antics, shall I say, of an elderly priest who gripped the rail, dug his toes into the deck of the little ship and uttered a wail so long and so prolonged,—a gurgling groan so ridiculously funny,—that we all laughed until compelled to join in the circus. The gong sounded for all hands to go below as there were breakers ahead and soon an utter blackness over- 50 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS shadowed us followed by a deluge of water down the stairway. An impromptu prayer meeting opened a session. For myself, I had reached my stateroom in utter collapse with a feeling of despair akin to despera- tion not to care whether the ship went down if I could only be relieved of the agony within me. At intervals on the trip, I could hear the old priest wail from a distant room, to which I would almost invariably respond in chorus with a mental resolution that I never—no, never—would I go to sea again; I would walk a year first. It’s different now. Great steamers a thousand feet long, of 50,000 tonnage, eight stories deep or high— whichever way we may prefer to express it—sink far below the surface of disturbed waters by the waves, with outside fins or inner U-shaped water tanks to automatically counteract the roll of the ship and mini- mize the motion, make life not merely endurable, but delightful at sea, where one’s feet may tread a steadied deck, where stench of the bilge water is banished; the oil lamps driven off by the odorless electric lights; the cramped quarters of the narrow bunks have given way to the comfortable bed—in a word, where all the modern comforts and luxuries of a first-class hotel may be experienced on the modern floating palaces of the present day. Having, subsequent to the time of the trip described, crossed the Atlantic eight times on the greater and more comfortable ships, I can testify from experience to the progress made in the comfort of travel by sea. At the date of which I write, the depth of water on the Columbia River Bar precluded the entrance to the Columbia of large steamers. Now, by the work of enterprising citizens of Portland and continued appro- priation by the government, the channel has been deep- ened from the sea to the City of Portland so that palatial steamers of heavy draught can reach that city in safety. I call that “Progress”, and again with a big “P” and spelled in big letters. TRIP TO NEW YORK 51 Arriving in San Francisco exhausted by sea-sickness as before noted, a feeling of depression seized me with an iron grip. My mind harked back to the cabin home in Puyallup; to the little wife; the children that made the cabin so cheery; the pets in the log barn; and even to the song birds of the nearby forests—in a word, I was homesick. I could not brook the idea of backing out and meet the derision of the people where everybody knew everybody; for nearly every man, woman and child knew of the venture, and would know of the result; and besides, there was that dread sea-sickness to confront me at once if I turned back. And _ go, without delay I took train over the Central and Union Pacific for Omaha and, figuratively speaking, burned my bridges behind me. I think it took eight days to make the trip to New York, most of the way without sleeper or dining car, and part of the way in the smoker with stifling clouds of smoke and vile stench of an unventilated car full of people, two in each seat, and some sitting upon baggage in the aisle. For four days and nights I did not catch a wink of sleep other than that which came over me sitting bolt upright alongside a companion traveler. It’s different now in the palace sleeper and appetizing diner. One must have experienced both trips to appreciate the latter, and the measure of PROGRESS which again we will spell with a big “‘P” and in big letters. MEETING HORACE GREELEY I had read the New York Weekly Tribune for eight- een years while living in the Territory, and felt almost as though I had a personal acquaintance with the noted editor, and immediately sought an interview with him. I did not have to wait long until I climbed the rickety wooden stairs to the second story—and which I think was the top story—of the building, and a wooden build- ing at that, and into the presence of the great man. He was a corpulent man, as I remember him, with a benevolent countenance that seemed almost to say, U, OF IL, LIB, 52 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS “TI love you,” and at once banished all feelings of bash- fulness that might have overtaken a green countryman, literally just out of the woods. The flowers before mentioned had been well pre- served between the leaves of my scrap books and had, to a great extent, retained their natural color. Loving fingers of lady friends had artistically arranged them on sheets of tinted paper. Mr. Greeley examined the col- lection with great interest. “TI have long known,” he said, “that the Pacific Coast possessed a much milder climate than that of the Atlantic; but I did not realize so great a difference.” Mr. Greeley continued talking while writing a letter of introduction to Chairman Ely of the Farmer’s Club, a remarkable feat, talking on one subject and at the same time writing upon another, the like of which I had never before heard. AT THE FARMER’S CLUB In due time, I presented Mr. Greeley’s letter to Chairman Ely, and instantly received an invitation to display my flowers and speak before the Club. The flowers did indeed make a fine display and attracted great attention. Following the advice of Mr. Greeley, I had prepared a history of the flowers and a brief description of Washington, all of which was published in the New York Tribune, and two or three other leading papers of New York, numerous papers in the East, and again in London (at the instance of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company) until the aggre- gate issues reached over two million copies. It was indeed a great advertisement, and all because of the foresight of one unassuming man, a lover of nature, Mr. Woodard, before mentioned. JAY COOKE It was my good fortune to become quite intimately acquainted with Jay Cooke, who had acquired world- TRIP TO NEW YORK D3 wide fame in the sale of United States bonds during the war of the rebellion. Unquestionably his work hastened the development of our territory. Upon presenting a copy of my book to Mr. Cooke, he at once invited me to accompany him to Hartford, Connecticut, where he was going that same evening to meet invited guests of capitalists to a banquet provided by him. The flowers again came to the front, and attracted great attention. Mr. Cooke took up the whole edition of my book that I had taken East, and commissioned me to tour New England, talk to the people, exhibit my flowers, which I did at Worcester and other cities, and finally to the Horticultural Club in Tremont Temple, Boston. S My appearance in New England cities and before New England audiences certainly did attract wide atten- tion and all sorts of comments. I am not conscious of attempting to put on any “Western Style,” in fact, I know I did not, and yet to my surprise people seemed to look upon me as a typical Westerner, and as I after- wards learned, but did not at the time suspect, sup- plied quiet amusement to many. I had never been in a large city or within reach of a daily mail. I did not eat with my knife, suck coffee from a saucer with a gurgling sound, drink out of my finger bowl or use my napkin on my olfactory protuberance as some would-be wag pictured Western manners. I did however get caught (luckily at a hotel) in unthinkingly dropping a lump of butter into my coffee. The titter that went the rounds of the darky waiters dressed in swallow-tail coats amused me—but I didn’t do it again. I had acquired the habit, in my camp life before the advent of condensed milk ‘and to this day prefer the butter to that of thin cream or even rich milk. 54 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS I had been warned to look out for ‘“Sharks’—confi- dence men—who would in some way fleece me, even if they didn’t rob me. Sure enough, one of them accosted me the first day on the streets of New York. “Would you like an introduction to Jay Cooke, who would cer- tainly take one of your books?” Of all things, that was what I did want, not realizing that I did not need an introduction other than presenting a copy of my book; and this was the way I blundered into the presence of Mr. Cooke that led to a successful result of my trip. The fellow was recognized at the bank on the corner of Wall and Nassau Street and a right royal welcome accorded me as the sequel shows. While await- ing the appearance of Jay Cooke, the brother, Pitt Cooke, embraced an opportunity to warn me against my erstwhile friend and after the interview with Jay Cooke and engagement to go to the Hartford with him, managed to show me out of the bank at a side door, leaving the “friend” sitting in the bank. How long he stayed or what became of him, I never knew. While the publication of the little book, followed by the blundering method of its promulgation did secure best possible results, yet the culminating factor of great events, the beginning of work on the Northern Pacific Railway finally unloosed the iron bands of isolation and brought many immigrants to the territory. CHAPTER VI. CLIMATE Great Diversities of Climate in State—Western Portion Very Mild and Equable—Inland Empire Has More Variation— Lure of Climate Brought Author to Coast—-Disappointment At First—Entire Satisfaction Afterwards—No Mistake Has Been Made—U. S. Weather Bureau Reports To Tell the Tale. The full and complete tables of temperature and rainfall that follow, prepared by the United States Weather Bureau, specially for this work, covering the whole State and for the whole period of time in which observations have been made, leave but little to be said on climate of the State. The wide variation in rainfall and temperature registered at the various stations, shows how utterly impossible it is to give a special description other than applicable to restricted localities. On the eight Coast stations west of the Puget Sound basin, the annual mean precipitation is 96.4, varying from 1387 inches at Quiniault to 62.4 at Berth Head with mean temperature at 50.7. On the western slope of the Cascade range the temperature runs lower. As the altitude increases, precipitation becomes greater than in the Basin in closer proximity to the waters of the Sound and near tide water level. Even in the Puget Sound division where the would- be wag said it “rained every day in the year and Sundays too,’ the difference in the annual rainfall varies from a minimum of 20.7 inches at Port Townsend 56 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS to 55 at Olympia. At Tacoma, thirty miles north from Olympia the annual precipitation drops to 42.2. Twenty-five miles further north at Seattle, to 34.3. At Bellingham, 80 miles still further north it is but 30.5. For the whole annual precipitation in the Puget Sound basin with observations at fifteen stations, aver- aging twenty years, the average has been 38.7 inches, temperature 49.9, with variations of not more than three degrees in temperature over the whole district. Then note the equable annual range of temperature in the basin of Puget Sound: at no point higher monthly mean temperature than 64 (Seattle), or lower than 35 (Clearbrook) ; the days are never hot or sultry and nights invariably cool—so cool as to require almost the same bed covering in summer as in winter. The range between the highest and lowest monthly mean temperature at Seattle is 24 degrees; at Tacoma 24; at Olympia 25; at Bellingham 22. The summers are too cool to produce corn, melons, grapes, peaches, etc., to perfection, although each are produced for home consumption, particularly corn, but for all the hardier vegetables and fruits the climate is ideal, especially for the apple and small fruits. Mast of the Cascade Range of mountains, commonly known as Eastern Washington, or the Inland Empire, the range of temperature between winter and summer is greater, although the winters are not severe. The summer temperature is suitable for producing corn, and the more tender vegetables, fruits and melons in great abundance; in fact the peaches and grapes pro- duced in large quantity have acquired a national fame; the apples world-wide, as shown elsewhere in _ this volume. As a young man of twenty-two with my young wife, I can truly say that it was the lure of climate that drew us to the Oregon country and brought the final CLIMATE 57 decision to undertake the memorable trip over the Oregon Trail. To say that we realized what that trip involved would not be ingenuous; but it proved to be an undertaking far more strenuous than we had counted on and I think such was the case with nearly all of the pioneers of that day. With two feet of snow fall- ing within sixty days after arrival, our ideals as to climate vanished. Discouragement and discontent reigned Supreme among the newly arrived immigrants. I believe nine-tenths of them would have left the country immediately if they could, but they couldn’t get away; in less than a year most all could have gone but by that time they didn’t want to go. Those that survived the trip averaged stronger and more stalwart men and women than the throng that crossed the Missouri River. It goes without saying that the greater number that dropped by the wayside were from the weaker physical class, though many strong men and women succumbed. Fully five thousand laid down their lives in the struggle on the Oregon Trail that one year alone (1852) and of course, the average that succeeded were of the class that were strongest; and so, when we speak of the pioneers as a class of stalwarts (which they were), it is well to remember the sad story that eliminated the physically weak. The sun shone brightly through most of the month of February following (1853), and in early March days Wwe made gardens and our spirits grew apace with the garden stuff and our dreams of the Oregon climate seemed to be realized; then when the later planting of hardy vegetables grew all through the month of Nov- ember, we were happy in the thought we had made no mistake in choosing the Oregon country for our future home. The reader must remember this occurred before there was a Washington (territory) and that a part of the experience related, while within the borders of what became Washington, was then a part of and known as Oregon. 58 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS I have resided here sixty-eight winters and during that time have seen several pass without enough snow to whiten the ground; then again several with from two to three feet in depth, but never to remain long under the sweep of the Chinook wind from off the warm Japanese stream of the Pacific that here hugs the coast closely; in other words, nature’s fickle mood is with us as elsewhere on the globe, leaving us_ without an ideal climate made to order, but be it said boldly, a beautiful climate and healthy without comparison. The prevailing winds from off the wide expanse of the Pacific Ocean, the oft cleansing of the atmosphere (washing, shall I say?) from frequent rains, the refresh- ing cool nights that invariably appear as old Sol disappears, the absence of sweltering, enervating heat in summer and lurking malarial germs, all combine to provide surroundings to invigorate the system; then the waters from the springs and rivulets that abound, even bursting out on our smallest islands, often hun- dreds of feet above the salt sea tide levels, the ‘Pure the sparkling water” is not only a thing of beauty but of wonderful comfort and life inspiring utility: always “soft” as rainwater and as pure. I have often and often looked around about me to view these great evergreen forest trees to wonder if they did not breathe and absorb from the atmosphere that which we call impurities. These giants draw their substance from air and moisture and not from Mother Earth. One might almost carry the ash of one of these monsters in his hat; in other words it is certain the evergreen forests that are now “the world’s storehouse of timber” depend upon Mother Earth where they stand, only as an abiding place and not for sustenance. 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