DEPARTMENT OF GEOUWt 55lL3 Af&h&L ibh-a-utt of /7/W'i 1et:Vfy, Books are Not to be Taken From the Library Room. Return this book on or before the Latest Date stamped below. GEOLOGY LIBRARY University of Illinois Library A p * < fift DEC1 3|974 MAR1 4 MAY^ T S 1976 at t 977 ONLY L161— H41 WAR department. REPORT RECONNAISSANCE CARROLL, MONTANA TERRITORY, ON THE UPPER MISSOURI, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, AND RETURN, THE SUMMER OF 1875 WILLIAM LUDLOW, CAPTAIN OF ENGINEERS, BREVET LIEUTENANT-COLONEL, U. S. ARMY, CHIEF ENGINEER DEPARTMENT OF DAKOTA. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1 8 7 C. 55-7- 0*™ ^" CONTENTS. ra R e. Letters of transmittal •- 5 General report 7 Orders 10 Composition of tlie party and instruments employed ■- 10 Saint Paul to Carroll via Northern Pacific Railroad and Missouri River 10 Carroll to Camp Baker, Montana, via Carroll Road 13 Judith Basin 14 Camp Baker to Fort Ellis, Montana, via Bridger Pass 15 Fort Ellis to the National Park 17 Mammoth Hot Springs 18 Yellowstone Falls 21 Yellowstone Lake 24 Tho Geysers 25 Upper Geyser Basin 2G Return to Ellis 29 Ellis to Carroll 31 Trip to the Little Rocky Mountains - 33 Return to Saint Paul 35 Remarks and recommendations with reference to tho Yellowstone Park 35 Legal euactnients establishing the park 37 Astronomical observations for time and latitude at Carroll, Camp Lewis, and Camp Baker 38 Summary table of daily instrumental observations, with deduced altitudes, latitude, and longitude of each camp, and of the Montana posts, distances traveled, &.0 52 Table of Missouri River distances from Benton to Bismarck, from survoy by Liout. F. V. Greene, United States Engineers, under direction of Capt. William J. Twining, Corps of Engineers 53 Report of Lieut. R. E. Thompson, Sixth Infautry, United States Army 55 Trip to the Judith Basin - 55 Trip from Carroll to Ellis, via Yellowstone River 50 Zoological report, by George Bird Griunell 59 Chapter I — Mammals 03 Chapter II— Birds 72 Partial list of mammals and birds 90 Geological report, by Edward S. Dana and George Bird Griunell 93 Preliminary remarks on the alluvial deposits of the Upper Missouri River 97 From Carroll to Box Elder Creek 99 Judith Mountains 103 From Box Elder to Camp Lewis 107 Camp Lewis to tho Judith Gap 109 Snow Mountains 109 Little Belt Mountains i HO Judith Gap to tho Musselshell Canon »j| HI Musselshell Canon to Camp Baker 113 Camp Baker 115 Camp Baker to Fort Ellis 117 Bridger Mountains H8 From the Bridger Mountains to the Forks of tho Mussellsbell l'-'l From Armells Creek to tho mouth of the Judith 1 -' I Little Rocky Mountains 1'-' The Geysers of tho Yellowstone Park - 130 General conclusions '■'-' Distribution of formations l ;i - Period of mountain-elevation 137 Description of new fossils, by R. P. Whitfield 139 MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. General map of the reconnaissance, scalo 1 iuch=12 miles ; at end of volume. Map of tho Judith Basin, scale 1 iuch=G miles ; to faco 1 ' Map of tho Upper Geyser Basin, scale 1 ineh=500 feet ; to face 26 Two plates of new species of fossils; at end of descriptions of now fossils. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign http://www.archive.org/details/reportofreconnaiOOuni LETTERS OF TRANSMITTAL. Office of the Chief of Engineers, Washington, D. C, July 21, 1870. Sib: Capt. William Ludlow, Corps of Engineers, Chief Engineer Department of Dakota, has submitted to this office a copy of the report of his reconnaissance from Carroll, Montana Territory, on the Upper Missouri, to the Yellowstone National Park, and return, made in the summer of 1875. It embraces the reports of reconnaissances by Lieut. R. E. Thompson, Sixth Infantry, and scientific reports by Messrs. George Bird Griunell, Edward S. Dana, and It. P. Whitfield. I have respectfully to recommend that the report bo printed at the Government Priutiug- Office, and that 1,500 copies be furnished on the usual requisition. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, A. A. Humphreys, Brig. Gen. and Chief of Engineers Don. J. D. Camebon, Secretary of War. Approved by the Secretary of War : II. T. Crosby, Chief Clerk. War Department, July 21, 1870. Headquarters Department of Dakota, Office of the Ciiief Engineer, Saint Paul, Minn., March 1, 1S7C. Sir: I have the honor to forward herewith a copy of my report of the reconnaissance of last summer from Carroll, Mont., over the Carroll road, to Camp Baker, Mont., thence to Fort Ellis, Mout., including a brief tour through the Yellowstone National Park, and the return journey to Carroll. Accompanying my report, for incorporation therewith, are those of Messrs. Griunell and Dana, which will be found both interesting and valuable. A map of the reconnaissance is presented, which shows the authorities used, iu addition to my own field-notes, which were made as complete as possible. Two sketches are added, one of the Judith Basiu and the other of the Upper Geyser Basin, to be inserted iu the proper places iu the report. A set of astronomical observations at Carroll, Camp Lewis, and Camp Baker, three principal points on the Carroll road, are furnished ; also a tabular statement of latitudes, longitudes, distances, &c, and a list of distances on the Missouri Eiver, from a survey by the United States Boundary Commission. The region included within the limits of the Yellowstone Park is, for its area, the most interesting in the world. It is situated at the very heart of the eoutiueut, where the hidden pulses can, as it were, be seen and felt to beat, and the closely-written geological pages constitute a book which, being interpreted, will expose many of the mysterious operations of nature. My own interest in this laud of wonder is so keen as to lead me agaiu to hope that it will be protected from the vandalism from which it has already suffered, and that the suggestion of an accurate topographical and geological survey, to complete the work so well inaugurated by Professor Hay den, may be made the subject of favorable consideration and recommendation by the Chief of Engineers. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, Wllliaiu Ludlow, Captain ofEngineei .v. The Chief of Engineers, U. S. A., Washington, I). C. RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. GENERAL REPORT. GENERAL REPORT Headquarters Department op Dakota, Office of Chief Engineer, Saint Paul, Minn., February 1, 187G. Sir : I have the honor to submit herewith my report of the reconnaissance from Carroll, Mont., to Camp Baker, thence to Fort Ellis anil the Yellowstone National Park, made during the months of July, August, and September, 3.875, in accordance with the instructions given in Special Orders No. 110, dated Headquarters Department of Dakota, Saiut Paul, Minn., June 14, 1875. My report includes those of Mr. George Bird Grinnell on the paleontology and zoology and of Mr. Edward S. Dana on the geology of the region traversed. These reports will be found highly interesting and valuable. Drawings of fossils collected by Mr. Grinnell form a portion of his report. Lieut. R. E. Thompson's report of the trip to the Judith Basin, and of the return from Carroll to Ellis, are also submitted; Lieutenant Thompson's topographical work having been incorporated in the general map. A map of the route pursued is presented on a scale of six miles to the inch, and a tabular statement is appended to the report, giving the astronomically-determined positions of important points, tables of distance, instrumental observations, &c. The determinations of Forts Shaw and Ellis are those of Lieut. F. V. Greene, Corps of Engi- neers, who was at those posts last summer on duty connected with the United States Boundary Commission. His labors obviated the necessity for my going to Fort Shaw (which would have consumed some valuable time), and also saved me additional delay at Fort Ellis, at which place, out of sis days I speut there, rain fell continuously for five. The position of Fort Benton and the map of the Missouri Biver below that post are from the survey of the same officer, under direction of Capt. William J. Twining, Corps of Engineers, chief astronomer of the Boundary Commission, who with his party descended the river from Benton to Bismarck in Mackinac boats, at the close of the season's operations in 1874, carefully mapping it, and establishing almost daily astronomical statious. The river distances determined by this survey show an enormous reduction from the crude and exaggerated estimates given in existing tables, and which have heretofore been accepted as fair approximations. Above Benton, the river is from the various published authorities collated, and as far as possible reconciled. The topography adjoining the route is from the field-notes of the reconnaissance. Sketches of the Judith and Upper Geyser Basins are given in the body of the report, also from field-notes. The general topography of the Yellowstone Park is mainly taken from the published maps of Dr. Haydeu and Captain Jones; using, however, my own latitudes wherever good observations were taken. This, however, was but seldom, since showers fell every day but one that we were in the park, and the nights were almost invariably cloudy. Inasmuch as no one who has seen this interesting region can fail to be deeply solicitous for its care and preservation, I am impelled to express a hope for favorable cousideratiou from the depart- ment commander of the remarks and suggestions in relation thereto. 10 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, I left Saint Paul ou the evening of June 30, iu obedience to Special Orders No. 110, series of 1875, De >art ure from ft' otu lieadquartcrs Department of Dakota, and proceeded, via the Northern Pacific Saint Paul. Railroad, to Bismarck, its western terminus, ou the Missouri River. [Special Orders No. 110.] Headquarters Department of Dakota, Saint raid, Minn., June 14, 1875. Capt. William Ludlow, chief eugiueer of tbe department, will, on July 1 proximo, proceed, via the Northern Pacific Railroad and the Missouri River, to Carroll, Mont., and make a reconnaissance of the route from that place to Camp Baker. Having completed this duty, he will proceed to the several posts in the district of Montana, and determine their latitudes and longitudes. He will also, if time permits, make a recon- naissance from Fort Ellis to the Yellowstone Park. Captain Ludlow is authorized to take with him his assistant and the enlisted men of engineers under his command. He is also authorized to take with him a geologist and such other scientific gentlemen, not exceeding four in all, as may desire to accompany his party. The commanding officer of the District of Montana will furnish escorts to Captain Ludlow from point to point, wherever, in his judgment, it may be necessary, sending a party to Carroll for that purpose ; the transportation being sufficieut to furnish one wagon, one ambulance, and five saddle-horses for use of Captain Ludlow's party. By command of Brigadier-General Terry: O. D. Greene, Assistant Adjutant-General. [Special Orders No. 127.] Headquarters Department of Dakota, Saint Paul, Minn., July 7, 1875. III. The Quartermaster's Department will employ one civilian guide and scout to accompany the under Capt. William Ludlow, United States Engineers, authorized in Department Special Orders No. 110, current scries. He will be paid at the rate of |75 per mouth for the time he is actually employed, and will be furnished with transportation by steamboat for himself aud horse from Bismarck to Carroll and returu. The acting assistant qnarter- m.ister at Fort Abraham Lincoln will take him up on his " Report of persons and atricles." IV. Second Lieut. R. E. Thompson, Sixth Infantry, will report to Capt. William Ludlow, Engineer Corps, for duty as topographer, with the recounaissance under the latter-named officer, authorized by Special Orders No. 110, current series, from these headquarters. By command of Brigadier-General Terry : O. D. Greene, Assistant Adjutant-General. My party consisted (beside my brother, Mr. Edwin Ludlow, of New York, and assistant, Mr. W. com ositionofthe H - Wood) of Messrs. George Bird Grinnell and Edward S. Dana, both of Yale Ool- i'»ny- lege, who had come out to Saint Paul upon my invitation for the purpose of join- ing me. These geutlemeu traveled at their own expense, receiving no compensation for their services ; and Messrs. Gnnneii I cannot but consider myself extremely fortunate in having iuduced them to ■"'id ^in-niilpen'rated accompany me as special assistants. Mr. Grinnell would report upon the paleon- assistauts. tology aud zoology and Mr. Dana upon the geology of the country passed over. The reports attest tbeir zeal aud industry, as well as tbe fullness of their qualifications for, and conscientious devotion to, their voluntarily-assumed tasks. Special Orders No. 121 directed my detachment of engineer soldiers, consisting of Sergeants Becker and Wilson aud five men, to report to me at Carroll for surveying purposes. At Bismarck, the party was increased by the addition to it of Lieut. R. E. Thompson, Sixth In- ueutenantThomp- fan try, who was to accompany it as topographer aud general assistant, and of n.is"a!uied 1 'to I: tfi'e Charles Reynolds, a well-known frontiersman, who was to act as guide and hunter ''■" lv - for the expedition. The instruments taken on the trip were a small Wurdemann transit-theodolite, No. 94 ; a Spencer Browning & Co.'s sextaut, No. 6o3G ; a Gam bay & Son reflecting-circle, No. 212; and „i, I'lie're'i'oiHi'iiis- two chronometers, a meau solar of Arnold & Dent, No. 1362, and a sidereal of Bond & Sons, No. 202. These instruments, with the exception of the circle, had been used on the reconnaissance to the Black Hills of the previous seasou, aud were known to be good. In addition were four odometers, two thermometers, two aneroid barometers, and an odometer-cart, constructed for the purpose of measuring distances. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAEK. 11 The party, after three days' detention at Bismarck, embarked on the steamer Josephine the even- ing of July 5, and sailed early on the morning of the Cth. Directions had been Leave Bismarck on giveu Sergeant Becker to make a survey of the river while going up. This was tbe Jose P Wl,e ' continued during the day; but as night fell, and the boat continued to run, it was found impossible to take the necessary compass-bearings to points in advance. Fort Stevenson, eighty-four miles from Bismarck, was reached at midnight. Here Lieutenant Thompson and Reynolds landed for the purpose of procuring some necessary Fort stevenson, articles, intending to join the boat again at Fort Berthold, which, although twenty- Djk ' five miles above Stevenson by water, is only seven or eight miles by land. July 7. — At 5 a. m., the boat reached Berthold, and stopped for two hours to land some freight, and Lieutenant Thompson and Reynolds again came on board. Berthold is the port Berthold agency for the combined tribes of Rees, Gros Ventres, and Mandans, who occupy in commou a village built on the north bank of the river, surrounding an old stockade of the North- western Fur Company, which had formerly a trading-post here. At that early hour, the village was still asleep, and a stroll through it resulted only in arousing the numerous Indian curs that with snarls and threatening aspect resented the intrusion. July 8. — Was hot and uneventful. Toward afternoon, the mosquitoes became more and more troublesome, and at night forbade sleep. About 11 p. m., the boat was stopped for the purpose of landiug Reynolds (who had his horse with him), and dispatching him in advance to Fort Buford, with a note to the post-quartermaster for supplies and one to the post-surgeon. A member of the party had been severely attacked with a disorder brought on by the heat and the effect of the river- water, which it is injudicious for one unaccustomed to its use to indulge in freely. July 9. — Arrived at Buford, three hundred miles above Bismarck, at 3 a. m. The surgeon, Dr. Middletou, kindly came down at once and announced that the invalid was suffer- For tn„f rd Dak ing from a sharp attack, and that it would be in a high degree dangerous for him to proceed. I made preparations at once to go ashore and remain until the next succeeding boat, which would pass in a week or ten days, should enable me to continue the journey. gto at Bnford Meanwhile Lieutenant Thompson would be in charge of the party, and instruc- tions were given him to proceed to Carroll and examine thoroughly the neighboring country. A full opportunity would at the same time be afforded to determine the latitude and L i et ,t6nsntThoni longitude of Carroll as a starting-point for the survey of the Carroll road, thence son and party go on to Camp Baker, which might then be proceeded with immediately on my arrival. July 15. — The Josephine returned to Buford from Carroll, having safely lauded the party, and brought a note from Lieutenant Thompson to the effect that the Indians had been Newa from CarroU very troublesome on the Carroll road, had run off a drove of forty mules belong- received at Buford. ing to the Transportation Company, and had even boldly invaded Carroll and attempted to steal horses from the picket-rope. I received information also that three recruits of a large detachment which had recently gone up the river, destined for Fort Shaw, had been killed in the immediate vicinity of Camp Lewis, sev- enty-five miles out of Carroll. Under the circumstances, and feeling some apprehension for the safety of the party, which had an escort of ten men only, it was weary waiting at Buford for the next boat up, the arrival of which was delayed from various causes, until I had nearly determined upon the overland trip of two hun- dred and seventy-live miles to Carroll, dangerous as this would have been, on account of the activity of the Indians and their large numbers in the vicinity of Fort Peck. However, the start ., s;lin ,„, tll „ Key West at last arrived, on the morning of the 23d; and, hastily getting on K 'yw..-«i. board, the journey was resumed. Wolf Point, the Assiniboine agency, was reached at 10 p. m. of the 24th, and Fort Peck, the general up-river agency for the Sioux, on the evening of the 25th. Peck, one hundred and eighty miles above Buford by water, stands on a narrow plateau of the north bank of the river, almost overhung by the hills in rear. The buildings are of logs, one story, and inclosed within a stockade. This agency is the most consid- erable on the Missouri River. I was informed that from 8,000 to 10,000 people were fed there. The distance to the hostile camps of Sitting Bull on the Yellowstone is not much in excess of one hundred miles, and intercourse is easy and not infrequent. It seems more than probable that 12 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, in order to make up the large number which it is claimed is furnished with food and clothing from this agency, the Indians of the Yellowstone must be included, the attitude of whom is one of vigi- lant and unvarying hostility to all white men. July 26. — Left Fort Peck at 3 a. m. Up to this point, the character of the river and its valley character of the appeared to be measurably unchanged, a broad, rapid, and turbid stream, about nver - three feet deep in the channel, cutting into its banks at every turn, sandbars fre- quently appearing in the muddy bed ; the valley heavily timbered with cottonwood, and well defined by hills. Above Peck, the bed of the stream became more gravelly, the channel consequently more stable, and the water somewhat clearer. The river narrowed to a width of from 150 to 300 yards; the clay bluffs from 150 to 600 feet in height, more closely approached the banks, and became exceedingly barren and unattractive, of dark-gray hue and ashen texture, with thin alkaline streaks near the base. Small plates of selenite scattered over the surface glittered in the sun, and the grass was exceedingly poor and scanty. As we advanced, small cedars appeared on the higher elevations, and game became more abundant. Glimpses of deer half-concealed in the shrubbery were frequently caught ; large bands of elk were seen in the timbered " points f and the shore of the river was everywhere dotted with the footprints of wild animals. Three buffalo crossed the river in advance of the boat. One was killed and hoisted on deck ; some Indians who had come on board at Wolf Point greedily appropriating the refuse portions. Just before sundown, a herd of seventy five or eighty buffalo were seen dashing down the left bank a h.ni of l.uffaio iu eager pursuit of three iu advance, who had already entered the water and were crossing the river. half-way across the stream. The herd at once plunged in, aud it was soon evident that the boat would intercept them. They kept on, however; the calves, of which there were sev- eral, swimming by the lower side of the cows, and all making strenuous efforts to overtake the leaders, who had meanwhile climbed the opposite bank. The stupid animals only turned back wheu the foremost actually struck the boat with their heads, and then, with bovine snorts and bel- lowings, they heaped together and climbed upon each other in desperate fright, within a few feet of us. It would have been butcliery to kill them, especially as we did not need the beef, and they were allowed to escape uuhurt. July 27. — Carroll was reached at 7 p. m. I found a note from Lieutenant Thompson to the effect Carroll jiont t,iat tlie vicinity of Carroll had been examined and the necessary observations taken ; aud, finding that forage and rations were becoming scarce, it had been determined to proceed on the road toward Camp Baker in order to save delay. A courier was dispatched to Camp Lewis for escort and transportation by Lieutenant-Colonel Otis, assistant inspector-general of the department, who was en route to Helena, and we awaited the reply. Carroll is a frontier " town " of perhaps twenty or twenty-five log buildings, on the south bank of the river, six hundred and forty miles above Bismarck and one hundred and sixty-five miles below Fort Benton, the limit of navigation on the Upper Missouri. The town is situated on a timbered plateau 15 or 20 feet above the level of the stream at low water, iu the river-valley, which is some 800 to 900 feet in depth, with steep clay slopes covered with pine. It owes its existence to its being the terminus of the road recently opened from Helena, and the point at which freights are trans- ferred to and from the boats. Montana has long suffered from its isolation and from the want of an outlet for its productions. Until the opening of the Carroll road, the only regular communication with the outer world was by the road from Helena to Corinne, on the Union Pacific Railroad, a distance of over four hundred The carruii route aI1(l &ft y miles. The distance from Helena to Carroll is more than two hundred miles less than this, a difference which, to the heavy bull-trains averaging only twelve or thirteen miles per day, represents a saving of fifteen or sixteen days in time. The Mis- souri River as far up as Carroll is generally navigable for the flat-bottomed stern-wheel boats that ply upon it until some time in October; and it is evident that by the aid of a connection at Bis- marck with the Northern Pacific an important and valuable outlet for the wealth of the Territory has been discovered, available from the opening of navigation in the spring until quite late in the fall, a period of over five months. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 13 In addition to tbe encouragement to the industries of Montana, a largo saving can be made by the Government in tbe cost of transporting its troops and supplies for tbe up-river and Montana posts by tbe use of tbis route. These considerations, supported by tbe necessity for maintaining troops to act as a check upon the lawlessness of tbe large number of Indians annually congregating in tbe vicinity of Fort Peck, constitute an appeal to tbe Government to protect tbe road against forays by tbe Indians, an obligation which is recognized in tbe distribution of troops along tbe line of tbe road. At Camp Baker, fifty-two miles east of Helena, is a permanent garrison of Military posts on two companies of infantry; at the forks of the Musselshell, fifty-six miles farther the Carro11 Ioad - east, is a summer camp of two companies of infantry and one of cavalry ; at the Judith Gap, thirty miles farther, is a detachment of eighteen or tweuty men ; and at Camp Lewis, thirty miles farther and seventy-five miles out of Carroll, is another summer garrison of two companies of infantry, from which a small detachment guards the stage-station at Box Elder, forty miles out of Carroll. These posts can conveniently receive their supplies from Carroll. If, in addition to the garrison at the forks of the Musselshell and Camp Lewis, a force of cavalry, sufficiently large to patrol the road and push reconnaissances south and east, could gn „ e8tiona a9 t0 be established between Camp Lewis and the Judith Gap, — and in this range the th " "" "f^vair.v uu 1 L ' D the Carroll road. requisites of wood, water, and grass are both excellent and abundant, — the route could be made as permanently safe as any other highway, and such loss of property and life as occurred last summer be prevented. The truth of the general proposition caunot, I A ° L L ' Suggestions as to think, be questioned that the settlements of Montana can best be protected by ti.e defense or the troops removed from their immediate vicinity and pushed out toward tbe sources ments.' whence hostile incursions are to be apprehended. July 30. — The stage came in an early hour, bringing word from the commanding officer at Camp Lewis that, much as he desired to do so, he had no transportation or men that he could possibly send. Colonel Otis therefore hired such transportation as could be obtained in Carroll ; and securing a few rifles and rounds of ammunition, we started soon after midday, our escort beiug half a dozen unarmed recruits, en route to Shaw. The road out of Carroll leads up a long sharp ridge to the west, constantly ascending, with many turns, until an altitude of over nine hundred feet above the " town " is attained ; the view thence was wide and varied. Up and down the river, the valley, sinuous and green, its steep slopes scored by deep ravines, could be traced for many miles. Bordering that, the tumbled Bad Lauds on the south bank and the yellow prairie on the north, and in tbe distance the various ranges of mount- ains in detached groups— tbe Bear's Paw, seventy miles to the north and west ; the Little Rockies, thirty miles north ; the Judith Mountains, forty miles south and west ; with the Great and Little Moccasins close by, and the Snowies beyond. The road at first traversed a rolling, sterile prairie, gradually descending. Camp was made on Little Crooked Creek, thirteen miles from Carroll, and in what are called the Bad Lands, which extend out from Carroll for over thirty miles. The landscape is dreary to the last degree, with rolling and broken outlines. The soil throughout the region is a a "™' 9es Torres. finely-ground clay of dark ashen hue and texture and irregularly striped by dirty alkaline streaks. In tbe absence of rain, it is dry and dusty; but thoroughly wetted, it becomes a Cmp on Little greasy, slippery, fathomless mass of clinging mud, through which the straining Crooked Creek - animals can hardly drag the heavily-weighted wheels. Wood is almost entirely wanting ; water is very scarce, and when found is alkaline and tepid. The vegetation is sage and cactus, with occasionally a little thin, poor grass. Near camp two trains were encountered going in to Carroll ; they halted for the night two or three miles behind us. July 31. — Camp was broken early, and the journey resumed through the same enlivening scenery for twenty miles, crossing Crooked Creek, a sluggish alkaline stream, deeply cut into the dark-gray clay (where the sight of a party of mounted Indians some miles away disturbed our lunch and started us on the road), to where the bounds of the Bad Lands were reached, and the road ascended upon high rolling prairie, over which a push of seven miles led into the valley of Box Elder Creek. This is a stage-station, forty miles from Carroll, where a guard of four soldiers is maintained from Lewis. The halting-place is marked by a log tb^mSS cabin standing on the bank of tbe creek, a small stream of swift-flowing water, ro " 14 RECONNAISSANCE FEOM CAREOLL, MONTANA, which has its source in the slopes of the Judith Mouutaius. During the clay, two or three single buffalo were seen, and antelope had appeared from time to time since leaving Carroll. August 1. — The road led in a general southwest direction along the northern foot-hills of the mountains, which were eight to ten miles distant, rising steep and wooded to the height of some 2,000 feet. The road was good, although somewhat hilly, the grass fair, and the creeks, several of which we crossed, were all bright little streams of good water. As we advanced, the mountains began to define themselves. The Little and Greater Moccasins separated from the Judith and from each other, between them appearing the distant Highwoods, with patches of snow; the Snowies, to the south, also snow-crowned; and, separating them from the Little Belt, could be seen the depression which marks the Judith Gap. The road follows the western flank of the Judith, at the southwest extremity of which, on the banks of Big Spring Creek, finally appeared the garrison-flag Camp Lewis, on aua * ue white tents of Camp Lewis, thirty-five miles from Box Elder. The camp MTOnty-fivf mi?e k s is situated in the level valley of the creek, the garrison consisting of two com- lrom Oarroii. panies of the Seventh Infantry, Captain Browning commanding. The creek, the main affluent of the Judith River, rises a few miles above Lewis, in a huge spring, from which the stream emerges, full-grown, with a rapid, tumultuous current of ice-cold water, abounding with the black-speckled mountain-trout. The course is northwest in a gravelly bed 15 or 20 feet wide and 1 to 2 feet deep. Wood has in a great measure to be hauled by the garrison from the mountains, but the grass is rich and luxuriant. August 2. — Lewis is the second stage-station on the Carroll road, seventy-five miles from the "town." We lay over one day to rest the animals. August 3. — Took the road again at an early hour, ascending upon a partly level and rolling prairie fairly grassed over, where rapid progress, parallel to the Snowy Range, was made, crossing several fine creeks which rise in the Snowies and flow north and west into the Judith River. The Judith Basin, a sketch of which is given, opened to the north and west, showing a fine, well-grassed, gently-rolling prairie, some fifty miles east and west and sixty miles north and south, of irregular diamond- shape, and inclosing about 1,500 square miles, from the borders of which rose, massive and detached, the encircling ranges, the Judith, Snowy, Little Belt, and Highwoods. Throughout this elevated region (and more especially later in the Yellowstone Park), we had daily occasion to observe the marked depth and clearness of the coloring, owing, I presume, to the utter purity of the atmosphere; the colors of objects compara- tively near by seemed to possess an unsurpassable richness and reality, and even on distant mount- ains, seventy-five or eighty miles away, while the colors were necessarily blended and their details lost, they exhibited a wonderful transparency and distinctness, undi named by the haze and vague- ness which usually obscure such distant objects. It is this quality of the atmos- phere that furnishes the chief beauty of the Judith Basin, which can hardly be termed a mountainous country, although the various ranges grouped about it, and separated from each other by broad intervals, form the principal feature of the landscape. Painted in a clear, transparent purple upon the sky, and seeming hardly to rest upon the yellow prairie which forms so fine a contrast, they look like massive islands in the tawny ocean that rolls against them. The basin will some clay be a great stock-raising, and, by the aid of irrigation, an agricultural region. It has always been considered a flue hunting country, where game of all kinds could be found, although we saw none, with the exception of a few antelope; the recent presence of the Crow camp having driven it off. At Ross's Fork of the Judith, near the gap, and twenty-seven miles from Lewis, we met Lieu- tenant Thompson, who had come out from Baker with two spring-wagons to meet us. Camp was made, with good grass and fair water ; wood scarce. August i. — Pulled out at 6 a. in. The road led directly through the gap. From the southeast extremity of the Little Belt Mountains rises a fine spring, flowing east at first, and then doubling- back through the gap into Ross's Fork. The gap is formed by a depression five or six miles in width between the timbered Snowy and Belt Ranges. It constitutes the head of the Judith Basin ; to the south appearing a broad, level stretch of prairie, sloping clown to the Musselshell, twenty or twenty- five miles distant. The Crow T camp at the time we passed was said to be seven or eight miles to TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 15 the eastward, on the southern slope of the Snowies. We also heard that a tight had taken place two uights before between the Crows and a party of Sioux, and that a war-party of one hundred Sioux had passed subsequently through the gap, going northward. Emerging from the gap, the road led west and south over a dry, sterile, and dusty prairie, in the teeth of a blistering southwest gale, across lloppley's Hole and Haymaker's aud Daisy Dean Creeks, iuto the valley of the Mussellshell, whose freshness and greenness and abundance of timber afforded the strongest contrast to the country behind us. The hired teams were mortally weary, and had beeu with the greatest difficulty urged all day against the strong, hot wind. Released from har- ness, they ran to the bank aud leaped bodily iuto the stream, thrusting their muz- C amp on Muaaoi. zles deep into the cool water with great contentment. The river is twenty-five or anellKlver ' thirty feet wide, aud on the average seveu or eight inches deep, of clear, rapid flow, over a gravelly bottom ; the valley level, wide, fertile, aud richly grassed, with heavy clumps of timber on the low banks of the stream. August 5. — Made au early start, and at two or three miles from camp came to the " forks" of the Musselshell, where the north aud south branches unite. Here a ranchman had Fwk3 of the Mas- established himself, raising cattle, aud, by means of an irrigating-ditch, cultivating scllslKl1 - some seventy-five or eighty acres in oats aud wheat. Throughout Montana, owing to the very thor- ough drainage, the general altitude above the sea, and the prevailing dryness of the atmosphere, irrigation is essential to successful agriculture. A stage-statiou of the Carroll road is made at this rauch, sixty-five miles from Lewis and fifty- six miles from Baker. The road followed west aud north up the North Fork, passing through a rocky, wooded canon of considerable beauty. Here the road, overlooking the stream, whose windings it North Fork of the followed, and deeply shaded by pines, made a very agreeable drive, the more so M » 8ael8lieI1 - that we were now beyond any danger from Indians. Emerging from the canon, the road led west and south over a high, rolliug, aud hilly prairie. At the foot of a long dowu-grade lay Copperop- olis, which was found to cousist of a miuiug-shaft and a deserted shanty. The North Fork of Deep North Fork of Deep Creek was reached at 4 p. m. and camp made. The creek Creek - abounded with trout, aud the wood, water, and grass were plenty aud good. August 6. — The road led down the valley of Deep Creek west and south to Brewer's Springs, where the luxuries of a hot bath, followed by a generous breakfast, were enjoyed. The waters well up freely, strongly impregnated with sulphur, from several springs, with temperatures varying from 105° to 115° Fahrenheit. They are taken up in wooden pipes, aud introduced into Brewer's Hot sui- the bathing-houses. The odor is at first unpleasant, but the water is soft and phurspnnga. thoroughly delightful to the skin. The color is a milky, cloudy blue, and soft, delicate filaments of sulphur adhere to the sides- of the bath and stream from the mouths of the supplying-tubes. A small hotel has been built for the accommodation of visitors. At this point unite the two forks of Deep Creek, which, bearing the name of Smith's River, flows here north aud west past Camp Baker to join the Missouri. The Carroll road bifurcates, one branch going west over the Bifurcation of the mountains, the other following the rich and fertile river- valley, which supports CarroUroad. thousands of cattle on its lush pasturage, until at sixteen aud three-fourths miles from the springs the road reaches Camp Baker, where it deflects to the west, toward Helena. The post is an irregular-looking cluster of buildiugs planted in the midst of a level aud stony plain, surrounded by mountains, upon which frequent patches of snow appear. c Bakor Mout An irrigating ditch brings a current of water through the garrison, but hardly appears able to vivify the arid soil. The troops at Baker are two companies of the Seventh Infan- try, Major Freeman commanding. I found here my party awaiting me, and without loss of time made preparations for the trip to Ellis. The transportation and escort which had hitherto accom- panied the party had returned to Ellis, and as the road to that point was considered comparatively safe, a small force only was needed. August 7. — Pulled out at 8 a. in., with transportation consisting of two six-mule teams and a four-mule ambulance, with saddle-horses for the party, and a sergeant and two men for guard and camp duty. There are two routes from Baker to Ellis : one, called the Duck Creek Tw0 ronte3 from route, via the Missouri and Gallatin Valleys, is perfectly safe, being within the set- Baker t0 Fort Ellis - 16 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, tlements, but several miles longer than the other, called the "outer" route, which, returniug nearly to Brewer's Springs, goes up the South Fork of Deep Creek almost direct to Ellis, passing betweeu the Crazy and Big Belt Mountains. From the springs south, the valley is at first broad and level and heavily grassed, the creek flowing northward. Many antelope were seen grazing in the inead- . q ows. Camp was made at 3.30 p. m. uear a fresh, cold spring issuing from the hill- side ou the east bank of the creek. The locality is the ordinary halting-place, twenty-seven miles out of Baker, and is called Moss Agate Springs. The grazing and water are excellent, but the supply of wood is small. August S. — Course continued nearly south up the valley. The creek gradually became smaller and finally was dry. " Sixteen-mile Creek", a branch of the Missouri, flowing a strong currentwest and south, was crossed eleven miles from camp, and the road beyond lay over a dry, yellow, gently- undulating prairie, which farther ou grew more hilly, and became an interminable waste of sage- brush. The antelope were numerous during the day. Cottonwood Creek, a small branch of Shield's River, was crossed thirteen and a half miles from Sixteen-mile Creek. The water is pure and camp > J ! 1 East Fork of Gaiia- the south bank of which, three or four miles farther west, Fort Ellis is situated. The Bozeman Pass road, leading east and south to the Yellowstone, climbs the hill-side opposite to where the road reaches the river. Fort Ellis stands near the head of the Gallatin Valley, for the defense of which it was constructed. It appears as an assemblage of log houses, irregularly placed from frequent additions, of uninviting exterior, but comfortable within. The garrison, General Sweitzer commanding, includes four com- panies of the Second Cavalry aud one of the Seventh Infantry ; but during the summer the mounted TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 17 troops are required to guard the passes and make frequent scouts, sometimes of considerable extent, and hence spend but little time in garrison. At the date of my arrival, two companies were absent, one scouting, the other acting as escort to the party of the Secretary of War in the Yellowstoue Park, while a third was preparing for the field, and started early next morning. August 10. — Employed the day in preparations for the trip to the park. The greater portion of the necessary pack-animals were then in the park, and my arrival was fortunately Pre „ f timed, since they were on the return, and expected back in two or three days. B v '•■« « ri P >nt» the rei- lowatone Park advancing to meet them, double that time could be saved. Accordingly, the bag- gage was reduced to the smallest possible amount. All trunks and boxes were left behind, and the necessary articles put into canvas sacks, brought from Saint Paul for the purpose. Tents were dis- carded and only tent-flies carried. The instruments were carefully rolled in bundles of bedding, and the basket containing the chronometers strapped to the spring-seat of the odometer-cart. Riding-animals were obtained and a six-mule team secured to carry the baggage and stores until the pack-train should be met. Toward evening we went into camp about three miles southeast from Ellis, on Coal or Rocky Canon Creek, a small affluent of the Cam P° IlCoaU reek Gallatin, uniting with it near the fort. August 11. — Broke camp at 6 a. m., and proceeded across the creek and up its valley. The trail followed the creek-bottom, crossing it several times, and over a rocky, hilly -, ., , _ ~ .-.««, , . . . « . . ,. Canon on Coal Creek. road, through a canon of considerable grandeur, shaded by lofty, precipitous lime- stone pinnacles. The general course was south and east, up the east bank of the creek, gradually ascending and bending more to the southward. The road improved, the available space becoming greater and the hills less steep. Crossing a low divide extending across the valley, the head of Trail Creek, a tributary of the Yellowstone, was reached. Through both creek- Trail Creek valleys, the flies were very numerous and annoying. There are two ranches on Trail Creek, the second one twenty-five miles from Ellis, where the creek-valley widened and entered that of the Yellowstone, which presented the familiar features of a broad, dry, stony stretch of prairie, sloping down to a beautiful stream, with borders fringed with trees. The Yellowstone River river has a stony and gravelly bed, an impetuous current of six or seven miles an hour, a depth of as many feet, and width of about 100 yards. The waters, constantly freshened by mountain springs and torrents, are cold and clear, and alive with trout of great size and variety. These range in weight from half a pound to two pounds and upward. Their favorite food is the grasshopper, great numbers of which fall into the stream, but they will also take the fly freely. The Snow Mountains border the river on the south and east, their lofty pinnacles glittering with snow. Chief among the range is Emigrant Peak, rising 6,000 feet above the „ . , „ , " " ' ° * JSmignuit l vak valley and attaining an altitude of 11,500 feet above the sea. It is a very hand- some mountain, of fine outline and great richness of coloring. Debouching from Trail Creek, the road bends south and west up the left bank of the river. We here met the party of the Secretary of War, iu two spring-wagons, going in to Ellis. The pack-train had been left behind at Gardner's River Springs, to follow more leisurely. Pushing on up the valley, crossing several small brooks flowing from the mountains, and passing two or three ranches, camp was made Camp noar B nt near Bottler's ranch, half-way to the Mammoth Springs and thirty-five miles from tier's Raucu. Ellis. Sufficient wood was readily attainable, and a swift-flowing brook was close at hand ; but the grass, never luxuriant, had been thinned by frequent camping. August 12. — Broke camp at 8 a.m. The road passed Bottler's ranch, where travelers can fiud fairly good food and lodging, and proceeded up the level valley to a rocky point coming down from the mountains to the river-bank. Surmounting this, we followed up the valley again, crossing two or three rude but sufficient bridges, at one of which was a toll-house. It appeared that To i lro .,ii from a company iu Bozemau had obtained a territorial charter for a toll road from that E " z ™;;» t0 ,? Iu . u L •* moth [lot or li:ir.h- place to the Mammoth Springs. The road had been made practicable for wagons, »er ■» River springs. and considerable work expended upon it up to the toll-bridge; but the main labor directed to the canon above, which had hitherto been a serious obstacle and impassable to vehicles. Continuing, the road bent more to the south, and entered the canon, following a hilly trail, blasted out of the rocks. The canon is some three miles in length, and the view from the highest part of second Cason of the road is very fine. The river, compressed to a width of 75 or 80 feet, is of a rich the YeUoT8luue - 3 w 18 EECONNAISSANCE FROM CAEEOLL, MONTANA, green hue, splashed with white, and flows with great velocity ; its surface breaking into great waves and swirls. The mountains ou either side are 2,000 or 3,000 feet in height, rising precipitously from the brink, and exhibiting dark browns and grays, contrasting with the deep, somber hue of the pines and the more sparkling green of the river, flecked with foam. Camp was made at the upper end of the canon, on the bank. All the essentials for camping camp in second w ere present, and trout abounded in the swift and turbulent waters. The gray- CaSoD - ling, a long, slender fish, of less weight than the trout, but rivaling it in activity and game qualities, competed successfully for the fly with the larger fish. August 13. — Started at 6.30 a. m., and soon afterward met Lieutenant Doaue, with the pack- train. The six-mule team was exchanged for pack-mules, and, after some threehours' Tbe pack-train met. b L delay, the journey was resumed. Cinnabar Mountain stands in the valley, on the right of the trail, and, as seen from any point „. v „ 4 . of view, is a handsome peak. Looking from above it, on the river- bank, it stands Cinnabar Mountain. ' r ° , ' ' out from the other elevations and makes a very striking picture. The strata are nearly vertical, with a perceptible overhang to the eastward, and strike nearly north and south. On the south front of the mountain is an immense "Devil's Slide-', with smooth, dark, nearly verti- cal walls, some 150 or 200 feet in height (the intervening material having been removed), which curve to the right in ascending and reach the summit. Adjoining this are broad bands of red and yellow, which follow the same curve, and seize the eye at once from their brilliancy of color and vivid contrast. The trail led us on up the valley, past two ranches, from which supplies were obtained, to campatGardinera within a few miles of Gardiner's Eiver. At this point, it leaves the valley of the River Hot springs. Yellowstone, and, over a hilly route, passes across the angle between the two streams, until, at the farther side of a level, well-grassed piece of prairie, it reaches the valley in which the Mammoth Hot Springs are situated. The rain had descended heavily all the afternoon and continued into the night. August 14. — The day opened wet, but cleared in a few hours. A thorough examination was made of the springs, which well repaid it. They have been already described with great particularity and minuteness in the reports of Dr. Hayden and Captain Jones, and a few words of description from me will suffice. This remark is not to be confined to the locality of the springs, but must be understood as No fnii description a PP lvm g> and in a sti11 greater degree, to the whole park, of which I shall not even w'iiVi','. •■lurni'pt'e'd' 1 *' attem Pt a full description, but content myself with recording only a few of the more prominent and enduring impressions received in our hurried visit. Pressed for time, with other work to do, our constant idea was one of eager haste, and we passed rapidly from place to place, thoroughly enjoying every hour, but always with some new wonder in advance, to divert our attention and to draw us on. The park scenery, as a whole, is too grand, its scope too immense, its details too varied and minute, to admit of adequate description, save by some great writer, who, with mind and pen equally trained, could seize upon the salient points, and, with just discrimination, throw into proper relief the varied features of mingled grandeur, wonder, and beauty. The Mammoth Hot Springs are the first point of interest in the park, the northern boundary Mammoth not or " which was crossed yesterday some miles back. They occupy a small valley, Sp "" K8 ' discharging eastward into that of Gardiner's Eiver, and which the spring-deposits have partly filled. Our camp was pleasantly situated in the valley below the springs, among trees growing out of these deposits, in which occasional pits and holes 15 to 20 feet in depth existed. Above the camp rose the extinct spring, called, from the shape of the mausoleum which it had itself constructed, the "Liberty Cap", or "Giant's Thumb", and beyond this again a succession of terraces, rising to a height of some 200 feet, dazzling white in the sun, indicated the presence of the active springs, which, indeed, had all along been evident enough from the vast clouds of vapor constantly arising. The terraces exhibited great variety and beauty of form, much enhanced by the quivering and sheeny effect of the thin, descending sheets of water. The material is a carbonate of lime, deposited by the cooling of the waters, of a nearly pure white, and, while wet, of a moderate hardness. Upon drying, the deposit becomes soft and friable, TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 19 and a hunting-knife could be easily plunged iuto it to the hilt. The main springs occupy the upper portion of the terrace, aud spread out into large limpid pools of a superb blue tint, boiling violently in places, and emitting clouds of steam. Overflowing the pools, the waters escape down the face of the terraces, and, iu cooling, gradually part with the carbonate held in solution, making constant additions to the ornamentations of the surfaces, and constructing scalloped pools aud "bath-tubs" of every form and temperature. The whole vicinity of the springs returns a hollow echo to the tread, highly suggestive of pit- falls beneath. The party, however, overrau the neighborhood, at first witb tentative step, and afterward with all confidence, no accident occurring. Kemains of extinct springs abound above aud below the active ones, while still others in full flow exist near the river's edge. The grass iu the valley of the springs is poor, but on the small prairie above is excellent. Wood and cold water are sufficiently abundant and convenient. There are two " ranches" near the springs, which do duty as " hotels", and are available for the use of travelers. August 15. — Wagons can be taken as far as the springs without much difficulty ; the road having been made entirely practicable, though of an occasionally undesirable steepness. At the springs, however, wheels must be abandoned, and everything carried upon pack-animals. The odometer-cart was left behind, both on account of the difficulty of getting it along, and the danger of rendering it unfit for use on the return trip to Carroll. The mean The ack ., outflt ., solar chronometer was left with it, in charge of the "hotel "-keeper, and the sidereal was rolled in a bundle of bedding, and intrusted to the somewhat uncertain fortunes of the packs. All other reductions had been made at Ellis, and camp was broken at 8.15 a. in. ; the "outfit" con- sisting, besides the party and the engineer soldiers, of three packers, a farrier, and a cook, in all twenty-two persons and thirty-three animals, of which eleven were pack- mules carrying about two hundred pounds. The trail (a bridle-path only) leads up the valley of Gardiner's Eiver (which is of considerable depth, and slopes steeply down to the water's edge) across the West Fork, and Gardinei , s Kiver Yal . then the East, gradually cliuibiug the eastern side of the valley to a plateau, ley. whence on the right of the trail descend the waters of the river, aud form a very pretty fall. The slopes of the river-valley are composed of loose basaltic debris, making a toilsome path, deeply gashed in places by washings from the foot of the great basaltic wall which towers above it on the east. Although not insecure, the ascent to the plateau is unnecessarily difficult, and a little labor expended upon it would serve to improve it greatly. The falls are some 20 feet in width, and make three plunges, estimated at about G diner . 8KiTBrFill8 45, 55, and 30 feet each ; in all a descent of 130 feet. Leaving the river,^the trail follows up in au easterly direction the shallow valley of a small brook called Black Tail Deer Creek, which traverses an open hilly prairie, and ' „ ' Divide betwiin Ganl- affords an excellent and easily-traveled road. Beaching the head of the creek, the imv s aud Yellowstone trail bore to the right, through a dry caiiony place to the edge of the valley of Meadow Brook, where, turning sharply to the left, it descends along a steep high slope, out of which the narrow trail is cut, to a fine open meadow, well grassed aud watered, where camp was made, thirteen miles from the springs. Several of the party rode ou a mile aud a half YeUowstone River farther to the Yellowstone Eiver. It was found to be a foaming torrent, some 60 *™ r the tails. feet in width, with steep rocky banks. The water, a rich green in hue, was broken iuto pools aud eddies by obstructing bowlders, and a strong odor of sulphur pervaded the air. Th( , brillKe over the Spanning the stream is a rough bridge some SO feet in length, resting upon cribs Yellowstone. at either extremity, and affording a passage to the east bank, where, at a short distance from the "bridge", is the "ranch" of Jack Baronet. Two or three miles below the " bridge ", the two forks of the Yellowstoue unite, aud, to the traveler approachiug it, the locality is marked by a large flat-topped butte, with steep escarpments, which stands in the angle, and from its shape is a noticeable object, contrasting with the pointed hills and peaks which surround it. The West Fork drains the lake, and the East, a mountainous dis- trict not yet thoroughly examined. 20 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, Rain fell again during the afternoon and night, and our experience of the weather iu the park seemed to be similar to that of Captain Joues, as recorded iu his report. On one day only of the two weeks passed in the park did we fail to have rain or shower, and night observations were in consequence greatly interfered with. August 16. — Camp was broken at 8.30. The herd had wandered during the night, and a couple ,_ , of hours were lost in getting them in and readv for the road. The pack-nudes had been employed on similar duty just before, and heavily laden. The construction or adjustment of the army pack-saddle is doubtless capable of great improvement ; at any rate, the backs and shoulders of the animals were in very bad condition, and one of them was found to be so unfit for a load that it was necessary to leave him at the bridge. While in the park, as there was no grain for the animals, they were allowed free range at night, and the grazing is so plentiful and nutritious that the majority of them held their own, although the work was occasionally severe. There need be little or no apprehension from Iudiaus, and guards were not posted after leaving the Mammoth Springs. The trail from Meadow Brook leads up the left bank of the Yellowstoue, winding among some Tow ^ low hills, and at four and a half miles from camp makes a precipitous plunge into the valley of Tower Creek, crossing which it ascends the opposite bank by a more gradual incline. The stream is a strong rapid brook, 12 or 15 feet in width, and a foot or two in depth, with a stonv bed, the waters fed from the snow-fields of the mountains. A Tower Falls. r ' * ' short distance below the crossing are the falls, which leap down 150 feet into a narrow, dark canon some 480 feet in depth. Basaltic-tufa cones and columns in the vicinity of the fall have suggested the name, and all the surroundings are picturesque in the highest degree. The fiuest view of the falls can be gained from a projecting spur on the south bank just below them, whence both the canon and the ereek-valley above can be seen. The stream discharges into the Yellowstone River near by, and at its mouth very fine fishing rewards the visitor. There seem to be two varieties of trout here, the bulky oues of the Yellowstone, with bright- yellow bellies and stripings of red, and a smaller kind more silvery in appearance, and exhibiting much greater activity and game qualities. These latter seemed to come generally from the creek. The mouth of the creek may be called the lower end of the Grand Canon, which exteuds up the river some sixteen miles to the foot of the Great Falls. Leaving the creek, the trail, alternately rising and falling, and curving to the right and left, Elephants Back gains the foot of a long, somewhat rolling ascent, which finally attains the western shoulder of Mount Washburne. The flanks of this incline fall steeply on both sides, displaying to the west an ocean of deep-green pine, surrounded by ragged, bare pinnacles, and to the east breakiug into the foot-hills of Washburne. This incline is approximately located on Rayuolds's map, and called the Elephant's Back, which name has on some later maps been trans- ferred to a minor elevation near the Yellowstone Lake. The name is appropriate and descriptive, and, having been given by the first topographer of the region, should be allowed to have its original application. Over this the trail by a gradual ascent reaches a high point on Mount Washburne, passing between banks of snow, which had remained uumelted by the summer's sun. Here, leaving the trail, summit of Monnt the party ascended to the summit of the mountain. The climb was made in less than an hour, and can almost be accomplished on horseback, so rounded is the moun tain-top, although consideration for the saddle-horses would suggest making it on foot. In passing some stunted pines near the trail, it was observed that there were no branches or twigs on the northwest side of the tree, aud that those which sprung from the northeast and southwest sides were twisted back and trailed away to the southeast. The explanation of this was not long in doubt. Reaching the summit, the whole panorama of the park sprung iuto view : the lake, with deeply sinuous shores and silver surface, interspersed with islands, with the Yellowstoue River crooking away from it toward us, was set, as it were, iu a vast expanse of green, rising aud falling iu huge billows, above which here and there jets of steam arose like spray; the encircling peaks, ragged and snow-clad, almost too numerous to count; Mount Humphreys, thirty or forty miles southeast, Sheridan and Hancock the same distance to the south, aud beyond and above them, TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 21 ninety miles away, looking almost mysterious from their distance and vast height, tbe Tetons, of a pale purple hue, with their piercing summits glittering' like icebergs. Only to the southeast, look- iug toward the great Idaho Desert, did a space appear which showed no prominent peaks. We had scarcely time to more than glance at this superb landscape, while resting and eating lunch with the aid of a hatful of snow from a neighboring bank, when a ferocious squall of hail, rain, and snow burst upon us from the northwest, and swept us like dust from the bald summit of the mountain. We were instantly compelled to seek shelter on the lee side, where, cowering and half-frozen, we awaited the passing of the storm. Motion, however, was absolutely essential to warmth ; so, with- out again trusting the untender mercies of the mountain, over which the wind „ . '„ & w Mount W aebbnnie. still blew keen aud cold, we plunged into a deep ravine leading steeply down its western flank, and regained the trail at the foot. The storm had wet the rich black mold, and made the path slippery and difficult through the densest timber of spruce and pine, where hardly sufficient cutting had been done to afford the narrowest of passage- ways. The projecting branches napped back their freight of rain-drops into our faces and clothing, and many of the broken twigs bore trophies snatched from the packs. There were several sharp pitches into aud out of the valleys of small brooks, which could easily be avoided. At present, the. trail is unnecessarily hilly and fatiguing, although delightful on account of the fine forest and the great number aud variety of the flowers. The grass is everywhere luxu- riant and sweet, the brooks are frequent, and flow in all directions, aud camp could be made at almost any point. The trail, however, might be greatly improved by means of a little well-directed labor and the exercise of better judgment in selecting it. The work of a pack or saddle animal is vastly increased by unnecessary ascents and descents, which both their conformation and the posi- tion of the load render arduous, and the easiest road is one of even grade, though it be thrice the length of the more direct one. Ascending to a low divide between two mountains, the valley of Cascade Creek was reached aud followed to camp. The last three or four miles were over a meadow which in many Mount waahbume places was wet and very boggy. The hail here had fallen in considerable quantity, c ' r ™™ p on Ca8cade aud whitened all the ground ; the sky was dark, and the air raw aud wintry. Camp was made on the east bank of the creek, where it leaves the meadow aud enters the narrow, steep valley through which it reaches the Yellowstone. A roaring camp fire soon restored the warmth aud cheerfulness of the party, which had been somewhat impaired by the shivering weather. We were only about a mile from the falls, and after everything had quieted down to silence their deep roar became vaguely audible. The evening was again cloudy and rainy. Distance traveled during the day estimated at eighteen miles. August 17. — Lay over in cainp to visit the falls. The night had been cold, and by 8 a. m. the hail of yesterday had not disappeared. Waiting an hour longer for the suu to dry „ ■ ■ i • . Yellowstone Falls. the heavy grass, we took on foot the trail which led us to the brink of the river- valley, half-way between the Upper and the Lower Fall, which are half a mile apart. Eeserviug the Lower Fall, whose deep thunder we could now plainly hear, we descended toward the Upper, and, after a short scramble over loose trachytic blocks, climbed out upon a point which, projecting into the canon below the fall, furnished a fine view of it almost en face. The river makes a sharp bend to the eastward just above the fall, which in consequence fronts nearly at right angles to the gen- eral direction. From the sharp and narrow pinnacle on which we stood, or rather to which we clung, the cataract, some 150 feet distant, was exposed in its full height and beauty. It upper Fail, no feet is a slanting one, having a base of perhaps one-half its altitude, which, as measured in hei s ht - by a cord brought for the purpose and marked in ten-foot lengths, is 110 feet. The water leaps dowu its rocky slope between black, shining walls of trachyte, and its pure green is broken iuto foam and spray from the very summit. From the foot the currents of air drove the clouds of vapor up the steep sides of the caiion, which were clothed in vegetation of the freshest and most brilliant hue, while a double rainbow illumined the surface of the stream below. The picture was certainly a beautiful one, and we hung over it in delight for an hour, which, with the thunder of the Lower Fall still fresh in recollection, was all the time we could afford. Half an hour of rough climbing over bowlders and loose trachytic blocks, across Cascade Creek, and down the side upper Fail of the main valley, brought us to a small plateau at the very crest ©f the main fall, 22 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, and almost at the water's edge, where the eye could plunge into the vast chasm below the fall, known as the Grand Canon. I had not time to think of it then, but was afterward not a little amused to remember that we passed on the way one of the men who, seated on the bank, was pen. sively watching for a trout to seize his grasshopper. He had evidently wearied of too much bacon and scenery,'and proposed a change at least of diet. The view of the Grand Canon from the point where we stood is perhaps the finest piece of scenery in the world. I can conceive of no combination of pictorial splendors which could uuite more potently the two requisites of majesty and beauty. Close at hand, the river narrowed in its bed to a width of some 70 feet and with a depth of 4 Lower Fall height or 5 teet > through the pure deep green of which the hardly wavering outlines of 310 feet. the brown bowlders beneath are distinctly visible, springs to the crest with an intensity of motion that makes its clear depths fairly seem to quiver. Just before making the plunge, the stream is again contracted, and the waters are thrown in from both sides toward the center, so that two bold rounded prominences or buttresses, as it were, are formed where green and white com- mingle. Lying prostrate, and looking down into the depth, with the cold breath of the caiion fan- ning the face, one can see that these ribs continue downward, the whole mass of the fall gradually breaking into spray against the air, until lost in the vast cloud of vapor that hides its lowest third, and out of which comes up a mighty roar that shakes the hills and communicates a strange vibra- Lower Fin and tion to the nerves. From far below this cloud emerges a narrow, green ribbon, Grand canon. winding and twisting, in which the river is hardly recognizable, so dwarfed is it, and creeping with so oily and sluggish a current, as though its fall had stunned it. On either hand, the walls of the canon curve back from the plunging torrent, and rise weltering with moisture to the level of the fall, again ascending 500 or GOO feet to the pine-fringed margin of the canon ; pinna- cles and towers projecting far into the space between, and seeming to overhang their bases. These details are comparatively easy to give, but how find words which shall suggest the mar- velous picture as a whole ! The sun had come out after a brief shower, and, shining nearly from the meridian straight into the caiion, flooded it with light, and illuminated it with a wealth and lux- uriance of color almost supernatural. The walls appeared to glow with a cold, inward radiance of their own, and gave back tints of orange, pink, yellow, red, white, and brown, of a vividness and niassiveness hopeless to describe, and which would overtax the powers of the greatest artist to portray. The lower slopes, wet with spray, were decorated with the rich hue of vegetation, while through the midst the river, of a still more brilliant green, far below pursued its tortuous course, and the eye followed it down through this ocean of color until two or three miles away a curve in the caiion hid it from view and formed its own appropriate background. The height of the fall, as ascertained by attaching a heavy weight to the measured cord, and Measurement of lowering it down, is 310 feet. The first attempt to get the height was made from the Lower Fail. tlie little plateau by the side of the crest, but the spray soon hid the weight from view, and the water so tore at it that it was impossible to tell when the bottom had been reached. A point was found, however, to the left and in advance of the crest and some eighty feet above it, from which the weight fell nearly vertically, and by aid of the colored tags which marked the in- tervals of the cord could be followed with the eye until it reached the brink of the stream below. From this same point, a sort of perch upon the very border of the precipice, can be had a most comprehensive view at once of fall and canon. After making the measurement, weasceuded the side of the caiion, and climbed out to one of the projecting pinnacles, half a mile farther down stream, whence a full view of the fall was obtained. It was remarkable to note how small a portion of the view was actually filled by the fall itself. Tremendous as it is, it seems but a minor incident in the picture constructed on the huge scale of the canon. From the projecting point, the width of the chasm across the top was estimated from the range Lower Fall and of a carefully-sighted rifle at 700 yards. This, however, is greater than the aver- Grand Canon. a g e ^n^ the caiiou just below narrowing considerably and gaining at the same time in depth, which is about 300 yards. The corresponding cross-section would be similar to that TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 23 in the accompanying sketch, which is intended to show the dimensions just below the fall, and another section farther down. Sections of cation just below the Lower Fall and farther down. Scale, GOO feet to 1 inch. The descent to the bottom of the canon from the east side is comparatively easy. From the west side it has also been accomplished, but it is toilsome and not unattended with danger, and the time necessary to descend and return would be considerable. Among other „ , , J ° Descent to the lint- improvements that suggest themselves to the visitor as proper to be made in the tom of the canon at- future is the construction of facilities for making this descent, such as rude but strong ladders, which could readily be placed in position where their aid would obviate all danger and decrease the fatigue. One of the party made an attempt to get down, but lost time in looking for the most favorable place, and the afternoon waning, he was compelled to abandon the under- taking. August 18. — The morning opened cold and foggy. Camp was broken at S. Took the trail which crosses Cascade Creek near the river by a steep pitch, and after a short ride Break camp for the over hilly ground and through timber reached comparatively open ground on the lake - bank of the river, which was there 100 to 200 yards wide, and peaceful enough, flowing with smooth, gentle current, between low, grassy banks. The pack-train meanwhile had taken a trail somewhat farther to the westward, which avoided the steep descent into Cascade Creek and made an easier crossing of it. The two trails united at a small creek discharging into the river, crossed it, and through dense timber climbed around the shoulder of a mountain to again descend into the broad open valley of Alum Creek. This is a shallow, sluggish stream of tepid, undrink- able water, some 30 feet in width and an inch or two deep, with a general north- east course to the Yellowstone. Off to the right, across an open prairie, appeared the Sulphur Springs, or Soda Mountain, as it has been called, which we visited. Some forty , , , „ . r ° ' ' ' J Sulphur Springs. or fifty acres are covered with extinct and active springs aud their deposits. Pure sulphur in considerable quantity is distributed over the surface. Several springs were boiling violently, one of them to a height of 3 or 4 feet, and emitting large volumes of steam. Pursuing the course again toward the river, over a hilly prairie, and crossing one or two creeks aud arms of the river, and a broad meadow, the borders of which were springy and boggy, the trail led to the edge of some timber, soon after entering which the Mud Geysers were found. We Mud passed on to a small pine grove, favorably situated for camp near the river and twelve miles distant from Cascade Creek. Leaving the horses, we returned on foot to examine the geysers. The main one is a bubbling pool of muddy, hot water, some 50 or 60 feet across, with a sloping shore 4 or 5 feet high, and numerous small vents and springs within the perime- ter. The water is thick with gray, uuwholesoine-looking mud, aud exhales a foetid odor. Another geyser, much more impressive in appearance, which however has not been seen to spout, at least of late years, has a crater some 50 feet in diameter aud 25 feet deep, narrowing at the bot- tom to a mud pool of the consistence of boiling mush, about 15 feet across. From the northwest side of this a perpetual boiling takes place, with a threatening roar and huge clouds of steam. If the mud apparently splashed upon the trees in the vicinity would serve as an indication, when an explosion does take place the display must be a very fine one. The " Devil's Workshop " is a small steam spring issuing from a little cavern apparently 15 or 20 feet in depth horizontally, but con- 24 EECONNAISSANCE FEOM CABBOLL, MONTANA, stantly obscured by a great volume of vapor. Hollow, bubbling noises continually issue from it, which simulate, by aid of the cavern, the metrical clang and clash of great pieces of machinery, turning and splashing, accompanied by a recurring hiss of escaping steam. About 4 p. m., pistol- shots from the Mud Geyser summoned us to witness an explosion. The water had risen gradually until the smaller springs were submerged and the basin enlarged to its full dimensions. Near the center, the geyser was boiling and bubbling actively, and soon spurted to a height of 5 or 6 feet, falling and rising again, and after about three minutes of excitement subsided, the water lowered, being gradually swallowed down the several orifices, and the discharge was over. The geyser has a period of about 4J hours, and several of the subsequent eruptions were witnessed. None exceeded 10 or 15 feet in height. The force is evidently weakening, as indeed the large number of dead and dying thermal springs seen in other localities additionally testify. This geyser has been known in previous years to spout 50 and 75 feet. There is still, however, a wonderful amount of force at work, and in a marvelous variety of forms. The fish taken from the river near camp were in appearance large and fine, weighing two pounds and upward; but out of the large number caught, all, with one exception, were wormy trout. affected by the worm mentioned by previous visitors and described by Professor Leidy. The appearance aud health of the trout do not seem to be noticeably injured by them, but the presence of the worm in the flesh can almost invariably be detected from a slight protuberance or rounding-out ou the sides. Laying this open, the worm is found, white, the size of a knitting- needle, and twisted in the flesh. We made no experiments to determine the flavor of these fish, although many of the men ate them heartily and pronounced them perfectly good. It is certainly most unfortunate that these fine fish should be so spoiled for the table. They abound in the lake and river, and, affording the finest sport, would be an immense attraction could they be used for food. August 19. — Without moving camp, we rode seveu or eight miles to a " ranch" in a grove on the west shore of the lake. From the Mud Geyser, the trail led through alternate for- e owsone a e. ^ ^^ river side, with an occasional marsh, the landscape generally quiet and pastoral. Ascending upon a high prairie point, the lake lay before us, a beautiful sheet of water, with deeply-indented shores, and the wooded mountains closing it in on all sides. We chartered a small center-board cat-rigged sail-boat, cleverly constructed by the owner of pine cut out of the for- est with a whip-saw, and crossed to the east shore. The water appeared filled with a round green- ish seed, probably of some aquatic plant, and little windrows of the same seed lay upon the beach, thrown up by the waves. Some trout were taken with a spoon ou the way over, all wormy, aud a squall or two gave variety to the sail and tested the weatherly qualities of the boat. We passed the mouth of Pelican Creek, in the valley of which large numbers of thermal springs have been found, and landed near Steamboat Point, seven miles from the eam oa om . starting-point. Two or three steam-vents were seen, and one of them on the far- ther side of the point has suggested the name. From a small aperture, colorless superheated steam escapes with a hiss and roar that indicate an excessive tension, and imitating precisely the blowing- off from a full boiler. Multitudes of grasshoppers, unwittingly encountering the steam, had met instant death. From the projecting point, some 12 feet above the water, the finest fly-fishing was found. An arc of nearly 180° could be covered with the fly in from 6 to 10 feet of water, out into the lake as far as the skill of- the fisherman would admit. The fish, though sometimes gorged with grasshop- pers, would rise eagerly to the fly, aud weighed from 1 J to 4 pounds and upward. The largest meas- ured 20 inches in length. None of them could be eaten. August 20. — The trail to the Great Geyser Basin breaks away from the vicinity of the Mud Gey- ser to the west and north over an open sage-brush prairie, gradually becoming Yei 1 i!w8tone W au3 more hilly, crosses Alum Creek near its head, and following up a small coule with Mad.sou lovers. flowing water at six miles from camp, climbs a hill and enters a heavy forest richly grassed. The ascent through this forest to the summit of the divide between the Yellowstone and Madison Basins is very gentle from the east. Two or three groups of sulphur springs were passed on the way. The descent from the divide into Madison Valley is precipitous, winding down a drop of a thousand feet through fallen and bnrued timber, and over a rocky, bare, and stony soil destitute TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 25 of grass. Reaching the border of the valley of the East Fork of Madison River, the Ea8t Fork of Maa . trail winds along the foot hills, to avoid an alkaline, boggy meadow, finally crosses lsonRlver - the meadow and two or three alkaline brooks, in which the animals mired badly, and follows down the bank of the East Fork, which was forded two or three times. The stream is 10 to 20 feet wide and 2 or 3 feet deep ; a clear, swift current and gravelly bottom, the water tepid and alkaline from the numerous hot springs which discharge into it. Gamp was made in a grove of cam ■ in Lower pine, after having traversed a pass between two hills which project into the Lower Geyser Basin. Geyser Basin. A small rill furnished a sufficient supply of good water, but the grazing was infe- rior. Several hot springs' had been passed before reaching camp, and to the south the geysers ap- peared covering a large area. The distance traveled during the day was about twenty-six miles. The upper valley of the Madison, including those of the forks, is quite barren and unattractive, owing probably to the action of the chemical hot springs which abound everywhere. The border- ing hills are stony and bare, and at the time of our visit were covered with dead and burned timber. The landscape in consequence is uninviting, the grass poor, and good camping-places, such as can be made at almost any point in the Yellowstone Basiu, are not to be found. August 21. — The morning was devoted to the examination of the springs and geysers of the Lower Basin, which are very numerous, and cover a large extent of ground, the Lower GevserBa- principal ones being about half a mile to the southward and eastward of camp. 8ln - Miuute descriptions of them have been published, and a detailed account is here unnecessary. Some are boiling, others spouting springs, the latter generally intermittent. On a high mound built by the geyser, we found a large pool about 25 by 15 feet, which was known to play, and the discharge of which we awaited. The water, of a deep azure hue and a surpassing clearness, was rising grad- ually but constantly to the level of its scalloped and ornamented rim, constantly becoming hotter, with bubbles of steam escaping more and more rapidly. Ebullition began near the middle, and the geyser finally commenced to spout, throwing the water about in all directions and to heights vary- ing from 10 to 50 feet. The display continued for over an hour, and we left it playing, but with gradually diminishing force. Meanwhile other smaller geysers in the vicinity played from time to time, all apparently independent of each other. The pools of all these, exhibiting every variety of form and ornamentation, possessed in common the beautiful azure tint and clearness of the water, contrasting finely with the light-gray hue of the silica deposited by them. The margins of all were iucrusted with this in various forms of bead, coral, and sponge work, and wherever the geyser water flowed silicious shale was deposited. Passing over a low ridge, a few hundred yards to the southeast, we came upon the " Paint Pots". This singular phenomenon consists of a " pool" some GO by 40 feet, with a raised margin of dry and cracked mud, within which numerous mud puffs slowly rose and The Pamt Pot8 ' fell, some through the partially liquid mass, which again closed over them, others possessing a small crater of their owu, to which additions were constantly making from the bursting of the sluggish bubbles. The pool displayed various colors, white, yellow, and red predominating, but shading into each other very beautifully through all the intermediate and combined tints. The clay was soft and smooth to the touch, with scarcely a trace of grit, and near where the bubbles emerged from below exceedingly hot. Leaving these, and passing by many other springs and small geysers, we went down to the Fire Hole River, crossed it, and pushed on up the west bank toward the Upper Basin, Between the two wherein are situated the Grand Geysers. After some two or three miles of travel basms - over fallen timber and through marsh and bog, we came upon some immense springs and pools, boil- ing violently and discharging a great amount of water into the river. These exhibited many hues of red, yellow, and green, from the presence of iron and vegetable growths; the pure geyser blue appearing where the spring was deepest and clearest. From the pools, we continued, passing many curious springs and small geysers, and then, crossing to the east bank, pushed rapidly on through a sort of canon on the river, until at about seven miles from camp, in the Lower Basin, we reached the lower end of the Uppeiyaud were at once hurried across to the west bank again to examine the " Grotto", which began to play as we arrived. This geyser does not spout to any me ■ Grotto" Gey- great height, 20 or 25 feet being the limit, but it is beautiful and interesting from 8er - the shape of its crater, which, some 12 or 11 feet in height, is curved and convoluted into massive 4 w 26 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, arches and exceedingly graceful forms. It played whenever we were by to see it, and evidently con- tinues in operation for considerable periods, from the dimensions of the crater it has built. These craters are all constructed, by the geysers themselves, of the grayish- white silica, or geyserite, depos- ited by the cooling of the water ; the process being very gradual and slow. The water in all is of the same pure clear blue, without a trace of any impurity. The taste, when cool, is the flat, insipid one of distilled water. Close by the " Grotto " stands the picturesque crater of the "Giant ", or " Broken Horn", a geyser of the first class. From the aperture of this, large volumes of steam were escaping, and the water was boiling violently 8 or 10 feet below the surface, occasionally rising in huge spurts and splashing over, symptoms which led us to watch it unavailingly for an hour in hope of a discharge. Meanwhile the pack-train had been making its way along the regular trail up the east bank, and, camp id upper reaching the Upper Basin, camp was established in the center of the basin on the Geyser Basin. west Dan k f Fire Hole River, in a small group of trees, with a fairly good marsh in front for the cattle. We found the waters of the river cool and palatable, and sufficient wood for camping purposes at hand. At short range from camp, and in full view of it, were the first-class geysers named " Old Faithful ", the " Bee Hive", the " Giantess", the " Grand", and the " Castle"; while the "Giant" and "Grotto" were but a short distance farther down stream. Beside these, the " Pyramid" and " Punch Bowl", near the " Giant", could be easily seen. Almost as we reached camp, "Old Faithful", which stands at the head of the valley overlooking it, and ait u ' which has earned its name from the regularity of its discharges, gave us his first display. The time was noted and the secoud discharge awaited. An hour after, we walked over to the elevation which marked his crater, 400 yards from camp. In a few minutes, after some prelim- inary spurts and splashes, the geyser, emitting a deep roar which shook the ground, shot up a clear, straight shaft of water, which, with two or three rapid impulses, gained an altitude of over 100 feet ; clouds of steam towering far above and drifting with the wind. For full five minutes, the superb column maintained its height, and then, with some unavailing efforts to check its fall, sank down, and was swallowed up in the crater. An examination of this followed. An immense quantity of water had been ejected, which, after bathing the crater and refilling the adjacent pools, flowed down crater of "old the slopes and discharged by various channels into the river. The crater of " Faith- FaithM". f u j » j s one f tne mos t beautiful of all. The lips are molded and rounded into many artistic forms, beaded and pearled with opal, while closely adjoining are little terraced pools of the clearest azure-hued water, with scalloped and highly-ornamented borders. The wetted margins and floors of these pools were tinted with the most delicate shades of white, cream, brown, and gray, so soft and velvety it seemed as though a touch would soil them. The material, however, is the constant silica, of which also are composed the pretty pebbles which furnish an additional charm to the pools. The only blemishes on this artistic handiwork had been occasioned by the rude hand of man. vandalism of the The ornamental work about the crater and pools had been broken and defaced iu Ti8itora - the most prominent places by visitors, and the pebbles were inscribed in pencil with the names of great numbers of the most unimportant persons. Such practices should be stopped at once. The geysers are more than worthy of preservation. It is not only that they con- stitute a superb spectacle in themselves: they are likewise unique, both iu performance and desigu. Nature, abandoning for the time all thoughts of utility, seems to have been amusing herself in this far off and long-hidden corner of the world by devoting some of her grandest and most mysterious powers to the production of forms of majesty aud beauty such as man may not hope to rival. The geysers, in the slow process of centuries probably, have built up miracles of art, of an mduriug though brittle material, that can be ruined in five minutes by r a vandal armed with au Destrnction of the ax i an d nearly all the craters show signs of the hopeless aud unrestrained bar- cratera by visitors. barity of many of their visitors. It cannot fail to fill the mind with indignation to see the utter ruthlessness of these sacrilegious invaders of nature's sanctuary. To procure a specimen of perhaps a pouud weight, a hundred pounds have been shattered aud destroyed, and always in those places where the most cunning art has been displayed, aud the ruin produced is correspond- ingly great. Upon our arrival iu the basin, we fouud several persous already eucamped, aud a UPPER GEYSER BASIX Drawn undertlie difec£Lan of CaptWLUDLOWCoipS of Engineer^ To axx»:mpeuqyliis report. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 27 whisky-trader snugly ensconced beneath his 'paulin, spread in the shelter of a thick pine. The vis- itors prowled about with shovel and ax, chopping and hacking and prying up great pieces of the most ornamental work they could find; women and men alike joining in the barbarous pastime. With regard to the play of the geysers, our visit was well-timed. Just at twilight, the " Bee Hive", 400 feet distant, on the opposite bank of the river, gave an exhibition of its The ., BeoHive „ power. The crater is a small, conical, gray mound of silica, severely simple and unpretentious in appearance, with an aperture of some IS inches, from which steam gently escapes. Near by is a small vent, which is the herald and precursor of its greater neighbor. Before the " Bee Hive" plays, this vent commences to emit steam loudly, with occasional splashes of water. Soon the geyser begins to boil and steam, the water occasionally surging over. Sud- denly comes a burst of 15 or 20 feet, and then almost instantly the slender shaft rises to a height of nearly 200 feet. So great is the impetus, and so slender the column, that the water, in its swift ascent, is nearly all dissolved into fine spray, which drifts off with the clouds of steam before the wind, to fall like rain. The play lasted about three minutes, and ceased as suddenly as it had commenced. An hour and five minutes after his previous display, "Faithful" again reared his magnificent column, and during the night, whenever the roar was heard, we looked out from our tents at the grand sight, rendered more beautiful by moonlight. The intervals were exactly 65 minutes in every case. August 22. — We were aroused at an early hour by the report that the " Bee Hive" was again about to play. This proved a false alarm, but sufficed to draw us across the river, which was some 25 feet wide and H to 2 feet in depth, and while on the opposite bauk we examined „ , „ , „. 1 ' 1L Pool of the ■> 42.5 log (A sin p) 7. 35700 23 45.5 4.38154 — 18 19.9 0. 03425 — 47 15 24. 5 1. 77579 2d term = 47 33 44. 4 2dterm 59". 7 Latitude = 59.7 47 34 44. 1 16 14.5 50.0 15 24.5 Refraction — 50" Chron. correction l h 01m 17..1 Dec 88° 38' 25" A 4895" h. m. 8. jRPolaris 1 12 47.7 Sid. timo at mean noon at this station Sid. interval from mean time of cnlniiuation Eetardati >f mean on sidereal time Mean time nt culmination tit' star Error of chron. at time of observation 1 01 17.1 Time by chron. of culmination 2 14 04.8 Sid. time of observation 19 22 08.5 Hour-angle, j), in mean timo 6 51 56.3 Sidereal equivalents in arc 102° 59' 05" TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 89 Determination of latitude by circum-meridian altitudes. Station, Carroll, Montana.— Date, September 20, 1875.— Object observed, ©.—Sextant, Spencer Browning, 6536.— Index error, — 1' 15".— Chr Arnold & Dent, 1362.— Observer, Wood. -Computer, Wood.— Bar., 27'-. 61.— Ther., 61°. Times of obs. by iler. dist. 2 ein» } p cos I cos D Red. tomer Obs'd 2 cir- Obs'd a 1 H. True mer. alt's deduced = a +!C = A. = P- = * cos a m arc = x. diau alti- tudes. rected index ei for tudes = a. = 90°+D-A. A. m. «. o - « o I o l n o . ,/ o . // 12 50 43. 4 42. 43 40 86 24 50 43 11 47 43 26 56 51 12. 4 13. 35 33 87 29 00 51 42.5 3 42.5 27 25 86 25 30 12 27 16 52 18. 5 3 06.5 19 g 18 87 29 50 44 17 27 30 39 52 47. 2 3a 14 13 12 27 26 27 39 48 53 14.5 2 10.5 9 9 87 30 00 22 53 39. 1 46. 6 86 25 40 12 12 27 21 27 27 60 54 15. 3 87 30 10 27 27 40 54 53. 5 31.5 86 26 00 12 22 27 31 55 27. 02. 87 30 00 44 '.!-.' 27 35 27 35 52 55 50. 25. 86 25 50 12 17 27 26 56 19.5 54.5 2 2 87 29 50 44 27 30 55 56 46. 4 5 86 25 40 12 12 27 21 27 25 62 57 24. 5 2 00. 8 8 87 29 50 17 57 57. 5 2 32.5 13 12 86 25 30 12 27 16 27 28 59 58 25. 5 3 00.5 18 17 87 29 30 117 27 20 27 37 50 58 46. 5 3 21.5 22 86 25 20 12 (12 27 11 59 20. 3 55. 30 28 87 29 20 44 (12 27 15 27 43 12 59 49. Mean la 4 24. 38 35 86 25 00 43 11 52 43 27 01 43 27 36 47 • 34 51 47 34 51 9. 82899 9.99993 0. 13922 Chron. correction -1 02 04.16 Semi-diam. +15 58.5 Equation of time + 6 38. 92 Refraction — 55. 9 Parallax + 6.3 Determination of the time by observed equal altitudes of the sun's limb. TO CORRECT THE Observed double alti- Corresponding times. elapsed time. Equation of equal alti- Chron. fast of appt.noonby each pair of equal alti - A. M. = t P. M. = V 72 10 00 73 10 00 ft. m. ». 10 51 40.5 52 04.5 52 29. 52 51.5 53 14.5 53 38. 54 03. 54 27. 54 50.5 55 14.5 55 38.5 56 02. 10 56 26.5 ft. m. s. 2 58 34.5 58 10. 5 57 47. 57 23. 57 00. 56 37. 56 14.5 55 50. 55 27.5 55 04. 54 42. 54 16. 5 2 53 53. A. m. 4 2 +16. 80 ft. m. s. 1 02 04.16 T = 4» 2m i = — 58". 33 L= 47° 35' let term = +17'. log A (page 164) = log i - 9 - i"P 0. 0392 : +16'. 8 = equation of equal altitudes. 'of? =: log tan D =H 10 14 54 56 03.08 13.81 2.-, 50 10.89 12 55 08.44 16.80 12 55 53 25.24 21.08 40 EECONNAISSANCE FKOM CAEEOLL, MONTANA, Observation for time. Double altitudes observed. Corresponding times. 767 w id h. m B 18 11 45. 18 30.5 IX :«. 14 an. 5 15 IS 55. 5 IK 34.5 17 38.5 IK 31.5 18 19 80.5 is 15 33.0 Latitude = L N. polar dist.= True altitude = «!— A = 44 57 03 34 11 log cos m log sin (m-A) log cos m sin (m— -A) = 9. 0227658 9.84619S9 1-. 80r9047 9. 8284436 log sin» J j) log sin I p 19.0405211 9. 5202605 pin arc = 38 20 58 41 56 » in time = h. 3 19 34 47.7 44 43.8 Equation of time True time Time by chron. 17 18 09 56.1 Chron. fast 1 05 37.5 E.P.andSd Observed 2 alt. 2 alt. corrected Altitude B, P, and Sd True alt. = A log cos L log sin A = 39 23 55 = 39 22 52 = 9.9951575 log COS L sin A = 9. 8284436 Observation for time. 212.— Chronometer, Bond & Double altitudes observed. 212 32 10 Corresponding times. h. m. s. 17 56 00. 59 00. 59 54.5 18 01 19.5 02 21.5 03 14. 04 13.5 05 01. 06 09. 18 07 02. Latitude = L N. polar dist. = A True altitude = A 2m = Ii + A + A m m— A log cos m log sin (m— A) log cos m sin (m— A log cos L sin A log sin 2 i p log sin i p iP p in arc p in time Equation of time True time Time by chron. Chron. fast 47 03 40 70 10 00 46 36 46 163 50 26 Refraction = E Parallax = P Semi-diam. = Sd E, P, and Sd Observed 2 alt Index error 2 alt. corrected Altitude E,P,andSd True alt. = A log cos L log cos I, sin A = 50 93 15 13 81 55 13 35 18 27 9! 7619011 93 15 13 46 37 36 50 18. 9097346 9. 8067296 46 36 46 18 02 25.5 19. 1030050 9. 9734435 9. 5515035 20 51 29 41 42 54 h. m. s. 2 46 51.6 14 09 59.2 9. 8067296 16 56 50.8 18 02 25.5 1 05 34.7 TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 41 Determination of the latitude by observed double altitudes of Polaris off the meridian. Station, Camp Lewis, Montana.— Date, July 25, 1875.— Ref. Circle, -Garaday & Son, 212.— Chronometer, Bond & Son, 202.— Ohse: 931 55 00 03 11 30 46 35 45 log COS J) = 9. 5393080 log sin p 9. 97228 1H :.o = 3. 6895752 log A 3. 68958 52 44.5 p - 3. 228-838 log A sin; 3. (iCieo 5,1 53.5 — 1694" 54 42. logfAsinp)' 7.32372 19 Oil lop a 4. 38454 III 30.5 1st terra log tan A 0.02399 30.5 Alt. — A — 46 34 55 03 19.5 = 54 log 2d term 1.73225 19 04 08.5 Latitude •— - — — 2d terra 54" 18 57 34.75 46 34 55 Refraction 50" Chron. correction l h 05'" 36".l & .yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy 4893" h. m. s. M Polaris 1 12 59.65 Si*', tirao at mean noon at this station Sid. interval from mean time nf culmination Mean time of culmination ol star Error oi chrou. at time of observation 1 05 36.10 Time by chron. of culmination 2 18 35.75 Clock-time uf observation 18 57 34.75 HonraDRlo.j), iu sid. time 7 21 01. Sidereal equivalents in arc 110° 15' 15" Pin arc Determination of latitude by circum-meridian altitudes. Times of obs. by J, -in 2 \ p Obs'd 2 cir- Obs'd alti- rected for True alti- True nier. alt's deduced = a + X = A. Lat. deduced =p. = k in arc — x. dian alti- tudes = a. = 90°+ D— A. ft. in. s. o / 1, o / „ o i 11 o , ii o , it 18 26 45. 5 8 00.5 126. 2 27 111 07 30 55 33 35 55 33 01 55 35 28 47 03 39 27 16. 7 30. 110. 2 08 08 4u 34 10 33 36 44 13 27 44. 7 02. 97. 1 53 08 00 33 50 33 16 09 58 28 10. 6 36. 85.5 1 39 08 50 34 15 33 41 20 47 26 36. 5 6 09.5 74.3 09 40 34 40 34 06 32 35 29 14.5 5 31.5 60. 1 10 10 10 34 55 34 21 31 36 29 45. 5 5 00.5 49. 57 35 20 34 46 43 24 30 26. 4 20. 37. i 43 11 20 35 30 34 56 39 28 30 54. 29. 34 56 37 31 49.5 ' 2 56. 5 17. 2 20 11 30 35 35 35 01 21 46 32 19. 2 27. 12. 14 11 30 35 01 15 52 32 47. 1 59. 8. J 9 11 50 35 45 35 11 47 33 !s2. 5 1 23.5 4. ■E 36 00 35 26 31 36 34 12.5 0.6 | 12 00 35 50 35 16 17 50 34 53. 7. 12 50 36 15 35 41 41 26 35 38. 5 52.5 1.5 2 35 50 35 16 18 49 36 16. 5 1 30.5 4.5 1 5 12 00 35 50 21 46 36 50. 5 2 04.5 35 55 35 21 31 36 37 30. 2 44. 14.7 17 12 00 35 50 33 34 38 01. 5 3 15.5 21. 24 11 30 35 35 35 01 25 3 49. 28.6 O 11 00 35 20 34 46 19 39 05. 4 19. 36.6 42 10 50 35 15 34 41 23 40 18. 5 32. 60. 35 05 34 31 40 47.5 6 01.5 71. 1 23 10 00 34 50 34 16 39 28 41 39. 6 53 93. 34 06 54 13 42 10. 7 24. 2 03 08 00 33 50 33 16 19 48 42 42. 5 7 56.5 124. 2 24 33 16 40 27 18 43 17. 8 31. 141.8 2 45 111 07 30 55 33 35 55 33 01 55 35 46 47 03 21 47 03 37 App. lat. = 1 = 47 03 50. Dec. — 12 39 07. 9.83326 Chron. correction 1 05 36 Refraction 34" 9. 99932 M of # '7 29 10 Parallax 0. 24785 18 34 46 0. 07043 4l> RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, Observation for time. ""• " Be nd& Sou, 202.— Index < iblo altitudes obser ved. Corresponding o / II h vi. s. 60 40 00 20 na os. 02 37. 03 06. 5 03 36. 04 05. 04 35.5 59 40 00 20 05 04.5 Latitude = L X. p..lar dist. = A True altitude = A = 47 03 50 70 10 00 30 02 54 2 m = L + A + A TO— A log ens TO log sin (m-A) log cos m sin {m—A log eos L sin A 147 16 44 73 38 22 43 35 28 9. 4497575 19. 3882963 9. 8067069 logsin* J J) 19. 4815894 log sin ft j; 9. 7407947 Refraction — R = 1 26 Parallax = P Semi-diam. - Sd R, P, and Sd 60 10 00 :- 1 SO 2 alt. corrected 60 08 40 _ 30 04 20 R, P, and Sd = _ 1 26 True alt. = A = 30 02 54 log cos L _ 9. 8332634 log sin A = 9. 9734435 log cos L sin A = 9. 8067069 h. m. s. p in time = 4 27 14. 13 *jt = 14 09 58.65 Equation of time = True time = 18 37 12.78 Time by chrou. = 20 03 35. 93 Chron. = 1 26 23. 15 Determination of the latitude by observed double altitudes of Polaris off the meridian. — 1' 20".— Chronometer, Bond Camp Lewis Montana.— Date, September 1", 1875.— Sextant, Speneer llruwning. 6,-,3i'..— Iml & Son, 202,— Observer, Wood.— Computer, Wood.— Bar., 25". 75.— Thi Observed double altitudes. Corresponding times. 50 30 51 20 M (10 53 50 54 10 55 10 55 40 56 00 56 10 56 30 56 40 57 10 93 57 30 93 54 1 49 20 93 53 29 16 35. 18 25. '1 53.5 log COS p log A llie A ."(IS j 8. 9318631 3.6884198 2. 6202829 Alt. = A 2d term Latitude = 6 57. 1 46 55 55. 1 01.3 47 03 53 lo- (As 111)1,2 7 ;(-; :t i;ii log a, 4. 3,-454 log tan A 0. 02931 46 55 55 Refraction v 50" Chron. correction l h 26m - :i ' 15 Dec °e° 38' 40" 4 4880" h. m. s. .RPolaris 1 « 33.66 Sid. time at mean i at this station Sid. interval from me. m Nine id culmination Retardation of mean nil sidereal lime Mean time of culmination of star Error of chron. at time of observation 1 26 23.15 Time bv chron. of culmination 2 39 56.81 Clock-time of observation ... 20 20 19.96 Hour angle, p. in sid. time 6 19 36.85 Sidereal equivalents in arc 91° 54' 13" TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 4:; Determination of the time by observed equal altitudes of the TO CORRECT III »'s limb. Arnold & Dor.t, 1362.- Corresponding times. Cbron fast of double alti- cbTpsed Equation of equal alti- A. M. = t r. M. = V tildes. , » It m a ft. m. s. ft. m. ». ft. m. ». 73 20 00 9 3:1 53. 5 40 07. 40 23.5 40 38. 40 52.5 41 07. 5 00 45. 5 00 30.5 00 15. 00 00. 5 4 59 45.5 59 30. 5 41 24. 59 16. 5 > 7 18 1 14 21.94 41 37.5 59 01. 41 53. 58 45.5 42 08.5 58 31. 58 16. 42 38.5 58 01. 1 74 20 00 9 42 53. 4 57 46. 9 41 23. 4 59 15. 73 A (page 164) = — 9. 4742 85. 1 - 58 50 07.5 58 20 1 08. 2.5 58 30 43 51. 5 2 05.5 8.6 1 58 20 44 38.5 2 52.5 16.2 58 10 45 25. 3 39. 26.2 57 50 46 10. 4 24. 38.0 56 40 46 55.5 5 09.5 5 46.5 65.5 56 00 48 16. 6 30. 83.0 55 10 7 07. 99.7 54 20 7 45. 117.9 54 00 50 34.5 8 48.5 152. 3 52 30 18 51 32. 9 46. 187.3 71.14 J 111 51 50 111 55 48 111 54 48 55 57 24 32 55 56 52 1 25. 1 55 58 17. 1 102 39 08.6 46 40 51.5 9. 836-18 9. 98932 0.25188 Equation of t 17 29 10.38 18 41 46. 03 Soini-di.im. Refraction - Parallax TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 47 Determination of the latitude by observed double altitudes of Polaris off the meridian. Station, Camp Baker, Montana.— Date, August 4, 1875.— Ref. Ciivlo, Gauibav & Son, '212.— Chronometer, Bond & Sou, 202.— Observer Wood - Computer, Wood.— liar., 25i».22.— Thor., 57°. Observed double altitudes. Corresponding times. 72(1 till (III 92 49 42 46 24 51 19 37 17. 37 59.5 UK 48. 39 26. 39 58.5 4(1 32. 41 41 17.5 53. 4V. 25. 19 42 56. log COS p =9. 2947207 log A = 3. 6893977 log sin p 9. 991395 log A 3. 689398 log A cos p — 2.9841184 = 964". 1 1st term = 16 04.1 Alt. = A = 46 24 05. 2d term = 58. 5 log A sin p 3. 680793 log (A sin p)2 7.36159 log a 4. 38454 log tan A . 02125 log 2d term 1. 76738 2d term 58". 5 19 40 15. 25 Latitude = 46 41 07.1 46 24 05 Refraction . Chron. Dec 88° 38' 29" A 4891" .ft Polaris 1 13 08.00 Sid. tiine .it liu-an I liatlliNst.illi.il Sid. interval In. in mean tune of culmination Retardation of mean on sidereal time Mean time ot* culmination ot star Error of chron. at time of observation 1 12 35.65 • Time by chron. of culmination 2 25 43.65 Clock-time ot observation ig 40 15.^5 Hour-angle, p, in sid. time 6 45 28.4 Sidereal equivalents in arc 101Q 22» 06" p in arc Determination of latitude by circum-meridian altitudes. Station, Camp Baker, Montana.— Date. August 1, 1875.— Object observed, >j Serpentis.— Sextant, Spencer Browning 6536.— Index ( Chronometer, Bond A: Sou, 202. — Observer, Wood. — Computer, Wood.— liar., 20'". '22. Tiler!, 57°. obs. by chron. Mer. .list =p. 2 sin' 1 p cos I cos D Red. to mer Obs'd 2 cir- dian alti- = fc. cos a h m ? , ,/ 19 23 18.5 4 10.5 34.3 1 i ' 24 07. 22.3 2 40. 14.0 25 37. 5 1 41.5 5.7 .2 26 42. 5 46.5 1.2 27 19.5 09.5 .0 ' 13 ' a 28 01. 32. .6 28 42. 2.9 6.6 30 04. 5 2 35.5 13.8 I 30 46. 3 17. 21.2 31 24. 3 55. 30.1 19 32 11. 4 42. 43.4 J ' l 80 47 40 15.0 80 48 58 30 80 48 28 40 24 14 57 40 23 17 13 40 23 30 87 04 13 46 40 42 : S. 2 55 48. 3 h. m. s. Semidiam. .9. 831348 Chron. correction 1 12 35.65 Refraction 57 9.99943 * M 18 14 53.22 Parallax 1 0. 11824 48 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, Observation/or time. Station, Camp Baker, Mo -Chronometer, Bond . Double altitudes observed. Corresponds 86 720 53 00 30 00 806 53 30 Hi 41 21 40 20 -I'l. 3 56.8 40 19 44 47.5 16. 06.5 37. 07.5 A = 168 47 57 H£ Sill (1/1 . og ens 111 Sill og cos L sin og sin 2 i p ogsinij) = 9. 5057860 = 18 41 29 Semi-diam. =Sd = R, P, and Sd = Observed 2 alt. = Index error = 2 alt. corrected = Altitude = R, P, and Sd = True alt. = A = = 9.8315447 = 19 44 43.9 Observation for time. Double altitude observ 720 00 00 10)788 49 30 78 52 57 39 26 ■>. 58 55 55. 5 56 28.5 56 55.5 Latitude = L N. polar dist. = True altitude = A A = 46 40 40 70 10 00 39 25 30 2m=L+A+ 156 16 10 78 08 05 3S 43 35 log cos m log sin (m-A) log cos m sin (»n — A 9. 3130467 9. 7961406 19.1091873 9. 8098313 log sin 1 i p = 19. 2993560 log sin J p 9. 6496780 iP jj in arc = 26 30 36 53 01 12 Refraction = R Parallax = P Serai-diam. — Sd E.P.andSd Observed 2 alt. Index error 2 alt. corrected Altitude R. P, and Sd True alt. = A TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 49 . Camp r.alcor, Mmitiiii Determination of latitude by circum meridian altitudes. Observed 2 cir- h. m. s. IS 35 33.5 37 54.5 12)1343 26 40 111 57 13.3 55 58 36. 6 33 55 58 03.6 40.8 55 102 58 39 08! 7 1 12 35. 8 Semi-diam. 17 29 10.4 Refraction 33" Parallax Determination of latitude by circum-meridian altitudes. Times of ol>s. by cbron. ■2 sin 2 i p cos ; cos D Obs'd 2 circum- meridian alti- = p. sin 1" = k cos a ft. m, s. 19 23 15. 24 53.5 25 55. 26 55.5 27 56.5 28 54. 30 24.5 19 31 34. 4 14. 2 35.5 1 34. 33.5 27.5 1 25. 2 55.5 4 05. 35.2 13.2 4.8 0.6 0.4 3.9 16.8 32.7 Constant multiplier, .879. 8)646 29 00 80 48 37.5 13.45 40 24 18.7 56.4 40 23 22.3 11.8 40 23 34.1 t- I = il = 4 40 40 COS 55 48. 3 cos 23 20 cos 79 9. 83648 0. 99943 0. 11824 9. 94415 Chron *4l correction I. TO. ». 1 12 35.8 18 14 53.2 9 27 29.0 Semi-diam. Krlrartion 56". 4 Parallax 50 EECONXAISSAXCE FKOM CAEEOLL, MONTANA, Determination of the latitude by observed double altitudes of Folaris off the meridian. Station. Camp Bator, Slonta Observed double altitudes. Corresponding t 37 06,5 37 37. 5 38 03.5 38 44. 39 17.5 19 39 57.5 log cos p =9.32270-16 log A =3. 6893977 log sin p 9.99018 log A 3. 6e940 log A COS p = 3. 0121023 = 1028". 3 log A sin p 3. 67953 log(Asinp)s7. 35SHC log a 4. 38454 log tan A .02091 log 2d term 1. 76461 1st term = 17 08. 3 Alt. = A = 46 22 43.2 8d term 58. 2 Latitude = 10 ) 927 50 00 46.8 >2 43.2 Kefractiou 46". 8 Cbron. correction 1" 12m 35'. 8 Dec 83° 38' 29" A 4891" h. m. s. ^IPolaris 1 13 08.76 Sid. time at mean u at tbis -tat ion Sid. interval from tin-ail mm- nt* culmination Retardation of mean on sidereal time Mean time of culmination of star Error of cbron. at time of observation 1 12 35.8 Time bv cbron. of culmination 2 25 44.56 Clock time of observation 19 37 11.9 Honrangle, p, in mean time 6 48 32.66 Sidereal equivalents in arc 102° 08' 10" Determination of the latitude by observed double altitudes of Folaris off the meridian. Station Camp Baker, Montana.— Date, August 5, 1875. — Sextant. Spe-necr Brnwninc. 6536.— Index error, —60".— Cbronometer, Bond & Son, - "->!». 30.-Tber., 53°. Observed double altitudes. Corresponding times. o / h. m s log COS p — 9. 4822605 log sin p 9. 97901 92 30 30 19 51.5 log A =3. 6893977 log A 3. 68940 31 31 10 12 13 24.5 log A cos p= 3. 171 6538 log A sin p 3.66841 31 50 14 01.5 = 1434". 8 32 10 14 40. 40 15 23. 33 16 10.5 1st term = 24 44.8 34 00 16 49.5 Alt = A =46 15 00. 7 34 15 17 21.5 2d term — 55. 92 34 35 19 18 06.5 2d term 55". Latitude = 46 40 40.5 92 33 1 35 00 1.. 03.25 . TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PABK. ->[ Determination of the latitude by observed double altitudes of Polaris off the meridian. Observed double altitudes. Corresponding times. 10 ) 924 13 30 = 9. 5388061 log sin p 9. 972:15 log A = 3. 6893977 log A log A siu p 3. 68940 log A cos p = 3. 2282038 3.06175 — 1691". 2 7. 32350 1st term logo 4. 38404 = 28 11.2 log tan A 0.01817 Alt. = A - 46 11 53. 7 2d term = 53.2 log 2d term 2d term 1. 72621 53". 2 Latitude = 46 40 58.1 Eifrao Hon 46".8 Cbron. correction l b 12'" 35".ri Dec 88° 38' 29" A 4891" h. m. s. Ai Polaris 1 13 08.76 Sid. time at iii.mii noon at llii.i station. Sid. interval fr. m-nii time of culmination Ketardation of ui<-an on sidereal time Mean time of eu lmi nation tit' star Error of cbrou. at time of observation 1 12 35.8 Time by cbron. of culm illation 2 25 44.56 Clock-time of observation 19 04 49.45 Hour-angle, p, in moan time 7 20 55.1 Sidereal equivalents in arc 110° 13' 47" p in arc 52 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, Summary table of daily instrumental observations with deduced altitudes, latitude, and longitude of each camp, and of the Montana posts, distances traveled, &c. Station. Date. Start. Arriye. Barom- Eleva- tion. Latitude. Longitude. Day's march. Total dis- 1875. July 13 July 13 July 16 July 18 July 25 •July ■>.; July 27 July is July 29 July 30 Aug. 9 Aug. 10 Aug. 11 Aug! 13 Aug. 15 Aug. 16 Aug. 18 Aug. 19 Aug. 20 Aug. 21 Aug. 24 Aug. 20 Aug. 26 Ang. 27 Aug. 28 Aug. 2:1 Aug. 30 Sept. 2 Sept 3 Sept. 4 Sept. 5 Sept. 6 Sept. 8 Sept. 9 Sept. 10 Sept. 11 Sept. 12 Sept. 13 Sept. 16 Sept. 17 Sept. 18 Sept. 19 h. 9.00 a. m. ""8."o"o"a".*ru.' ft. "i."3~o'p.'m.' 10.00 a. m. Inches. 27.50 26.80 26.95 26. 28 25.83 25. 54 25.07 24. 70 24.80 25. 20 24.66 Feet. 2. 247 2, 923 2,776 3,437 3, s!IO 4,186 4,673 5,063 4,957 5, 106 5, 191 4,747 ' _ 4,' 873 4,958 6,114 6,037 7,767 7,626 47 34 48 47 30 01 47 28 00 47 20 43 47 03 47 46 47 03 46 30 00 46 33 13 46 32 50 46 40 44 46 23 40 46 00 05 45 40 15 108 24 00 108 34 30 108 41 30 109 02 00 109 26 30 109 44 00 110 06 40 110 28 30 110 55 40 111 11 00 110 53 30 110 48 40 110 59 04 Miles. MiUs. Little Crooked Creek 13 19.5 36 27 29 19.25 27 16.75 27 28.75 1.5 33.25 15.5 18 15 19.5 11 16 26 9 15 18 15 16.5 18.5 6 10.25 16 16.5 21.75 27. 25 24 21.5 26 16.25 28 17.5 23 26 22.5 13 19 38.5 74.5 101.5 130.5 149. 75 176.75 193. 5 2SL 23 282. 75 316 331.5 349.5 364.5 384 395 411 437 446 486 509 524 542 557 573.5 592 598 602 612. 25 628. 25 644. 75 666.25 693.5 717.5 739 765 781.25 tOO. 25 849^ 75 875. 75 898 25 6.00 a. in. 7.30 a. m. 7.00 a. m. 7.30 a. m. 7.45 a. m. 8.30 a. m. 8.00 a. m. 5.00 p. m. 4.30 p. m. 4.20 p. m. 2.00 p. m. 4.00 p. m. s'ob p! in. North Fork Musselshell Brewer's Springs Camp Baker Muss Ag:tto Springs Twenty-live Yard Creek... 6.15 a. m. 8.00 p. m. 5.00 p. m. 8.45 p. m. 25.00 Drane'sDarn 6.30 a. m. 12.30 p. m. 24.80 8.20 a. m. 8.40 a. m. 8.20 a. m. 9.30 a. m. 8.30 a. m. 1.10 p. m. 8.40 a. m. 8.00 a. m. 7.50 a. m. 12.30 p. in. 8.30 a. m 8.50 a. m. 9.15 a. m. 3.00 p. ra. 10.30 a. m. 8.20 a. m. 1.10 p. m. 6.45 a. m. 7.30 a. m. 7.00 a. m. 6.30 a. m. 6.45 a. m. 6.30 a. m. 7.30 a. m. 3.00 p. m. 5.00 p. m. 11.45 a. m. 23.80 22.28 22.40 44 43 40 44 37 17 Yellowstone Lake anil return Lower Geyser Basin Upper Geyser Basin 4.20 p. m. 7.30 p. m. 3.50 p. m. 12.30 p. m. 5.30 p. m. 12.30 p. m. 1.50 p. m. 1.50 p. m. 7.50 p. m. 4.00 p. m. 6.00 p. m. 7.00 p. m. 5.30 p. m. 4.00 p. m. 6.15 p. m. 1.30 p. m. 1.45 p. m. 3.30 p. m. 3.45 p. m. 22. 73 22.64 22.40 7,238 7,347 44 27 40 I'.nteler's Ranch Spra-ue's Ranch 24. 28 23.70 24 37 24.25 24.61 24.86 25.37 25.83 25.90 26.05 27. 40 26.50 5,513 6,147 5,416 5,545 5.160 4,894 4,360 3,890 3,820 3,668 2,343 3,220 45 45 27 45 53 40 46 05 30 46 20 12 46 26 08 110 53 45 110 53 30 110 45 15 110 45 30 110 24 50 ( Vtti.mv.ioil Creek South Fork .'I' Musselshell 47 19 12 47 25 10 47 41 30 47 31 17 109 12 00 109 20 30 109 39 30 109 27 30 6.30 a. m. 7.00 a! ni! 7.30 a. m. 3.30 p. m. 4.30 p. m. 2.15 p. m. 47 30 33 47 49 38 111 48 19.5 110 39 48 TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 53 Distances on the Missouri River from Bismarck to Benton, from a survey by Lieut. F. V. Greene, United States Engineers, tinder direction of Capt. W. J. Ttcining, Corps of Engineers. Miles. 805.4 787.7 707.6 li'.O. 7 689. 6 621.7 619.4 600.9 486.2 321. 9 309.4 305 302. 9 Fort Benton Marias River Little Sauily River Citadel R.x-'k Cathedral Rook. Hole in the Wall Arrow River Drowned Man's Rapids.. Old Camp Cook Judith River Holmes Rapids Dauphin Rapids Lone Pine Rapids Sturgeon Island Cow Island Grand Island Two Calf Island Emile or Harriett Island. Little Rock Creek Carroll Beaucliamp's Creek Boyd's Island Musselshell River Fort Peck Milk River Porcupino Creek Frenchmen's Point Big Muddy River Little Muddy River Fort "Union Yellowstone River Fort liuford Muddv River White Earth River Little Knife River Little Missouri FortJBerthold Fort Stevenson BigKuifo River REPORT OF A RECONNAISSANCE OF JUDITH BASIN, AND OF A TRIP FROM CARROLL TO FORT ELLIS, VIA YELLOWSTONE RIVER. By Lieut. R. E. Thompson. Fort Stevenson, Dak., March S, 187G. Sir : I have the honor to forward herewith a report of the reconnaissance of the Judith Basin, made during the past summer, in accordance with your orders, and an account of my subsequent return from Carroll, Mont., to Fort Ellis, by way of the Yellowstone River. The trip to the Judith River, which was laid out as part of the summer's work, on condition that it could be completed before the close of navigation on the Upper Missouri, was ordered from the camp on Armell's Creek, September 11. Its object was the examination of the country in the vicinity of the Judith, with regard to its topographical features, to accurately locate its position, but more particularly to afford an opportunity for a thorough search for fossil remains in the cut banks of its valley, which offer so extensive an exposure. The party consisted of a sergeant and one private of the Engineer Battalion, charged with runniug the trail by compass and odometer; a detachment of a sergeant and seven privates of the Second Cavalry as escort; and Reynolds as guide. Mr. G. B. Griunell and Mr. Ludlow accompanied the party; the former interested in the paleontology and zoology of the country. Sextant-observations were made by Mr. W. H. Wood whenever practicable. Including myself, the party numbered fifteen men, all mounted, save the teamster, the ser- geant in charge of the odometer-cart, and the man charged with the care of the chronometers. On the morning of September 12, the party was put en route across a stretch of rolling prairie country. The general course was toward Square Butte, a landmark in the vicinity of Benton, considerably west of the point to be reached ; but it/was deemed advisable, from lack of knowledge of the country, and from the broken appearance to our right, to make the divide between Dog Creek and the Judith, and to follow this up till opportunity offered to descend to the valley of the latter stream near its mouth. The headwaters of Dog Creek were reached in the afternoon. Here I was joined by Beed, who had volunteered his services as guide. Camped at a pool near this creek. In the morning (September 13), a course more to the north was taken, bearing nearly on Bear's Paw Mountains. The divide was kept from necessity, either valley being impassable for wagon. Shortly after leaving camp, the broken character of the Judith Bad Lands began to appear to our left and front. For twenty miles back from the mouth of the stream, the country immediately tributary to it is washed and cut iuto the wildest and most rugged shapes. The soil is of that clayey character capable of supporting itself at steep inclines ; and where ordinarily the drainage would be con- ducted in simple valleys or natural depressions, here gulches and ravines, with precipitous sides, are formed by the flow of the water. The worst of these were avoided, and to within ten miles of the mouth of the Judith our path was over a country such that a heavily-loaded wagon-traiu could have been conducted with but little difficulty. 56 EECONNAISSANCE FEOM CAEEOLL, MONTANA, The Judith and Dog Creeks from their sources converge gradually, and, at their junction with the Missouri, are but three miles apart. The valley of Dog Creek is broken in a manner similar to that of the Judith ; and, back ten miles from their mouths, this erosion, from long-continued action of water, has gone to such extent that the summit of the divide between these two streams is a simple backbone of a few feet iu width, and the passage of this ridge with a single wagon, lightly loaded and conducted with care, nearly entailed the loss of the team. This difficult piece of road lasted but a few hundred yards. For sis miles farther on the valleys keep apart, and give a good stretch of prairie. A descent into the valley of the Judith was made at a point four miles from its moutb. Camped on the river; abundance of wood ; grazing x^oor. The Judith is a swift-running stream, from 60 to SO feet in width, and has a depth of water varying from 2 to 4 feet. Its sources in the Judith Mountains are clear, cold springs, but the character of the water changes completely in its course to the Missouri. Its temperature is very much increased, and a considerable amount of earthy matter is taken up and held iu suspension. Though all its upper branches are plentifully stocked with trout, none of these fish were taken in the main stream. Its valley proper, from bluff to bluff, is about a mile wide, well timbered with a young growth of cottonwood. Scrub pines and cedars are sparsely scattered over the highlands, principally on the sides and at the heads of ravines. From the rate at which the wood is now being taken out for the supply of steamboats, the whole will be exhausted before many years. September 14, moved camp half a mile down stream for better grazing; visited Fort Claggett, a small Indian trading-post on the Missouri, a short distance above the Judith. It consists of two log buildings facing each other; their ends joined by a stockade, with a small flanking arrange- ment at the alternate angles. A few Indians were seen about; their tepees standing near the fort. From the ruins of old Camp Cooke, in the west angle between the Judith and Missouri, the plan of the post can be distinctly traced; some of the adobe walls still withstanding the effects of the weather. The 15th and lGth were consumed in a vigorous search for fossils by nearly all the party. Observations were made by Mr, Wood. On the night of the 16th, a courier arrived from Carroll, with orders from you for the return of the party. Preparations were made accordingly. As it is highly probable that a more lengthened search in this vicinity than our time had allowed would be richly rewarded, and, in order to afford every facility for the improvement of the time that could be gained, a mackinaw was procured, by which Mr. Grinuell, at whose disposal it was placed, with Messrs. Ludlow and Eeynolds, was enabled to remain somewhat longer upon the ground, and then make Carroll by way of the Missouri as soon as the overland party. The return trip began on the 17th. My old trail was necessarily taken for part of the way back ; but, as soon as opportunity offered, a course to the east of it was taken ; but little was gained by this, however, for from the nature of the ground I was compelled to pass near the old camp on Armell's Creek. But little game was seen on the Judith. The Indians, as well as white men in that vicinity, kill for hides alone for purposes of trade. The consequence is very apparent. Bat three or foar herds of buffalo and a few autelope were seeu there; antelope becoming more plentiful as we left the river behind us. Carroll was reached the afternoon of the 20th; the party by boat making the landing soon after. % This trip demonstrated the practicability of a wagon-road through the Judith Basin to the Missouri ; though for general use a considerable amount of work would first needs be done. The trail was carefully kept; the principal topographical features being sketched iu. The data for the plotting of the course and the astronomical notes are already iu your hands. Every facility was afforded Mr. Grinuell in his collection of fossils. It is to be regretted that longer time could not have been taken in this work. After the departure of the main party from Carroll for the East, it devolved upon me to con- duct the transportation back to Ellis. The party T under my charge consisted of but two sergeants and ten privates of the Second TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 57 Cavalry, and it was my intention to follow the road previously passed over by the party ; but on my arrival at the forks of the Musselshell River, I found a company of the Second Cavalry, com- manded by Lieut. L. H. Jerome, under orders to scout the country east of the Crazy Mountains as far as the Yellowstone, and thence to return to Fort Ellis by way of that river. Through the courtesy of Lieutenant Jerome, I was enabled to avail myself of the opportunity (which the small force at my disposal rendered it imprudent to attempt) to strike the Yellowstone at Big Timber Creek, a point within about seventy miles of that to which General Forsyth had ascended with his expedition in the spring. Camp at the forks of the Musselshell was struck ou the 28th of September, crossed to the south side of the Musselshell a mile below the forks, followed the general course of this stream for about four miles to the Little Elk — a well-wooded stream, crossed from this creek to the Big Elk (seven miles) in a course a little east of south, passed this stream, and three-quarters of a mile farther ou a branch of the same. About eight miles more of travel brought us to the Porcupine (or American Fork). Here camped. Throughout this day's march, an exceedingly large number of antelope were observed, and at our camp on the Porcupine the woods and underbrush were alive with deer, showing in a very marked manner the absence of the skin-hunter. September 29. — Traveled seven miles to Summit Creek; four miles farther on crossed the Sweet Grass, a tributary to the Yellowstone. It is fed by springs and melted snow from Crazy Mountain, and flows a volume of water nearly equaling that of the Musselshell. Beyond this, several small streams were passed: Beaver Creek, standing in pools at this season, two miles; a branch of same, half a mile ; three miles farther on, Williamson's Greek, and a mile from this, Burnt Creek, all emptying into the Sweet Grass. The first crossing of Big Timber Creek was at three miles ; we recrossed half a mile beyond, and camped on left bank. This stream is about 20 feet wide, clear and cold. The valley is very heavily timbered. On the department maps, several small streams are noted as running into Big Timber from the north. There are no streams of any moment after passing Burnt Creek going south ou this trail. October 1. — Traveled down left bank of Big Timber for about five miles; crossed within half a mile of its mouth. Here observed indications of Indians, probably Crows. Two large tripods, 20 feet or more in height, had been erected, and from the legs of these were suspended hundreds of moccasins, some of them beautifully beaded. It was remarkable that none of these moccasins were more than 5 inches in length; the most of them averaging about 3 inches; probably some offering, or medicine. Traveled up Yellowstone on its left bank. Little Timber about four miles and a half from Big Timber, about a third of the size of the latter ; well wooded. The country between these two streams is very poor, almost no grazing; sage-brush being the main production. Half a mile farther on crossed a branch of Little Timber ; the two unite about three hundred yards from the Yellowstone. Three miles beyond, Cherry Creek. In succession, we passed Duck Creek three miles on, Hot Spring Creek three miles beyond, and Cold Spring Creek a mile beyond that. Went into camp on the Yellowstone near the latter. October 2. — General course still along Yellowstone. Crossed Yellowstone ten miles from camp at a point nearly opposite old Crow agency. The ford was very circuitous, ranging, back and forth along the bars to avoid deep water. At this season, the greatest depth on this ford brings the water nearly to the wagon-body. The old Crow agency, recently abaudoued, is at the foot of the Yellowstone Mountains, oppo- site to, and about four miles from, the mouth of Shield's River. It consists of a collection of rude buildings, principally adobe. Recrossed the Yellowstone about five miles above the agency. There are two fords equally good, one above and one below " Benson's Ferry." Formerly, the passage of the stream at high water was made by a ferry-boat conducted by means of a cable stretched across the river. At the time of my crossing, the ferry was not in existence. Its place is marked by two stones on the left bank. Camped two miles below, just opposite one of the highest points of the Yellowstone Mountains, called Medicine Peak. October 3. — After leaving camp, crossed Fleshman's Creek about eight miles from Shield's River. 8 w 58 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA. Half a mile beyond is a small stream, which 1 followed up for about twelve miles, then pulled over a high divide; at this poiut the only difficult road was encountered. Across the divide, the head of the Middle Fork of the Gallatin River was struck, and a general course with that of the stream was followed to Fort Ellis. In the progress up the Yellowstone River, a very noticeable feature presented itself; the change of the character of the country adjacent to it. Throughout its whole length on the lower stream, the elevations on either side never attain to more than the dignity of " buttes." But from the moment of passing Crazy Mountain, the scenery of the river becomes more in keeping with the grandeur to which it attains above. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, R. E. Thompson, Second Lieutenant Sixth Infantry. Capt. William Ludlow, Corps of Engineers, Saint Paul, Minn. RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. ZOOLOGICAL REPORT. GEO. BIRD GRINNELL. LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. Tale College, New Haven, Conn., June 1, 1876. Sir: I beg leave to hand you herewith, as a partial report ou the zoology of the region trav- ersed by your expedition last summer, a list of the mammals and birds observed ou the trip. In making out this list, I have taken care to give only such species as I actually saw and identified either in life or by their remains. I have added a list of such species as have been noticed in the immediate vicinity of the Yellowstoue Park, combining the observations made by Mr. Merriam, of Hayden's survey, 1872, with my own during the past summer. I It may not be out of place here, to call your attention to the terrible destruction of large game, for the hides alone, which is constantly going on in those portions of Montana and Wyoming through which we passed. Buffalo, elk, mule-deer, and antelope are being slaughtered by thousands each year, without regard to age or sex, and at all seasons. Of the vast majority of the auimals killed, the hide only is taken. Females of all these species are as eagerly pursued in the spriDg, when just about to bring forth their young, as at any other time. ) It is estimated that during the winter of 1874-'75 not less than 3,000 elk were killed for their hides alone in the valley of the Yellowstone, between the mouth of Trail Creek and the Hot Springs. If this be true, what must have been the number for both the Territories! | Buffalo and mule-deer suffer even more severely than the elk, and antelope nearly as much. The Territories referred to have game laws, but, of course, they are imperfect, and cannot, in the present condition of the country, be enforced. Much, however, might be done to prevent the reckless destruction of the animals to which I have referred, by the officers stationed on the frontier, and a little exertion in this direction would be well repaid by the increase of large game in the vicinity of the posts where it was not unnecessarily and wantouly destroyed. / At one or two points, notably Camp Baker, efforts have been made to drive off the skin hunters, and with such success that the officers have very fine hunting within easy reach./ The general feeling of the better class of frontiersmen, guides, hunters, and settlers, is strongly against those who are engaged in this work of butchery, and all, I think, would be glad to have this wholesale and short-sighted slaughter put a stop to. But it is needless to enlarge upon this abuse. The facts concerning it are well known to most Army officers aud to all inhabitants of the Territory. It is certain that, unless in some way the destruction of these animals can be checked, the large game still so abundant in some localities will ere long be exterminated. / I am, sir, Very respectfully, your obedient servant, Geo. Bird Grlnnell. Col. Wm. Ludlow, Chief Engineer Department Dakota, St. Paul, Minnesota. ZOOLOGICAL REPORT. By Geo. Brur> Grinnei.l. LIST OF MAMMALS AND BIRDS. CHAPTER I. MAMMALS. FELID.E. 1. FELIS CONCOLOR, Linn. Mountain Lion; Cougar. Although not a common species, a few of these animals are killed in the mountains every winter. The skins of the Cougar were formerly imported in large quantities from the east and from California for purposes of trade with the Iudiaus. A few years since, a good skin was sometimes sold for seven or eight buffalo-robes; but at present they have little or no commercial value. A single individual of this species was seen by our party on the Yellowstoue River, near the mouth of Alum Creek. 2. LYNX RUFUS, Baf. Bat Lynx; Wildcat. Very abundant in the mountains. 3. LYNX CANADENSIS, Baf. Canada Lynx; Catamount. Not a common species, though taken occasionally. I saw a few skins at Fort Peck, and was told that it was sometimes killed in the Yellowstone Park. CANID.E. 4. CANIS OCCIDENTALS, Bich. Gray Wolf; Timber Wolf. Although the Gray Wolf is always killed whenever the opportunity offers, it still exists in con- siderable numbers wherever the Buffalo are abundant. On the return march, just before entering 64 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, the Judith Gap, I saw one pack of twelve, another of nine, aud, besides these, many individuals singly or by twos aud threes. Buffalo were very numerous here, and, although uot much hunted, enough were killed to furnish abundant food for the wolves. This species was also abundant near the Judith River, and during the hours of darkness their bowlings were heard almost coustautly. Wolfing, as it is called, is an established industry in Montana; and, being pursued only in winter, it gives employment and support to a large number of teamsters, steamboat-bands, aud others who are necessarily idle at this season. The method is sufficiently simple. The wolter, starting out, kills a deer, a buffalo, or some other large animal, and, thoroughly poisoning it with strychnine, leaves it for a day or two. When he returns to it, he finds from one to a dozen wolves coyotes, aud foxes lying dead about the carcass. As wolf-skins, large aud small, i. e., gray wolves and coyotes, bring $2.50 apiece at the trader's store, it is not unusual for two men to make $1,000 or $1,500 at this work in a winter. Almost all the dogs seen among the Assinaboines, Crows, and Gros Ventres of the Prairie, appeared to have more or less wolf-blood in their veins, aud many of them would have been taken for true wolves had they been seen away from the Indian camps. 5. CANIS LATRANS, Say. Prairie Wolf ; Coyote. This species is abundant between Carroll and Fort Ellis ; being, I think, much more common on the prairie than in the mountains. 1 have always found it most numerous iu a plain country, where there are deep washed ravines, to which the animals may retire during the day, and in holes in the sides of which the young are brought forth. When searching for fossils in such places dur- ing the past summer, I have often come upon an old female lying at the mouth of a hole in the bank, and surrounded by her litter, of from four to eight half-grown pups. At my appearance, the family would spring to their feet, stare at me for a few seconds, and then two or three would dart into the hole, as many wildly scramble up the bank, and the rest would start off up the ravine at a good round pace, looking back over their shoulders every few steps, as if there were a constant struggle between their fears and their curiosity. A puppy, perhaps three months old, was captured while we were in camp on Crooked Creek He had taken refuge in a hole in the bluffs, aud was dug out and brought to camp. Although so young, he was utterly wild and vicious ; snapping at any one that ventured to touch him, and refus- ing to eat. His unceasing efforts to escape were at length successful, and one morning we found that during the night he had gnawed off his fastenings and departed. 6. VULPES ALOPEX MACRURUS, Baird. Prairie Fox. This is an abundant species throughout the country traversed by our party. It is often found dead near the carcasses poisoned for wolves. 7. VULPES VELOX, Aud & Bach. Swift; Kit Fox. This pretty little fox is common on the prairies of Dakota and Montana, and, as it is a species that has but few enemies, it is often quite tame. I have sometimes come upon one of these animals as it lay sleeping iu the sun at the mouth of its burrow, and have been amused to see it, after a brief examination of me, stretch, yawn, and then with its tail held straight up in the air, aud an appearance of the utmost iiHconcern, trot slowly into the hole. This has generally two openings ; and sometimes, while you are examining one entrance, the Swift may be seen inspecting you from the other. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. G5 MUSTELID^. 8. MUSTELA AMERICANA, Turtou. Marten. The Marten is said to be quite abundant in the mountains of the Yellowstone Park, and it doubtless is found some distance down the Missouri River. I saw skins at Fort Peck which I was told had been taken in the immediate neighborhood. 9. PUTORIUS YISON, Rich. Mink. This species was quite abundant all through the mountains. Some very fine dark specimens were seen along Bridger Creek near Fort Ellis. 10. GULO LUSCUS, Sabine. Wolverene; Skunk-bear. No living individuals of this species were seen by any of the party ; but we noticed their tracks quite often while in the park, aud saw many skins in Bozeman. Hunters there informed me that they were seldom killed, except in the severest weather of the winter. In this region, they were spoken of as the " Skunk-bear"; farther south they are called "Carcajou". The young, when first born, are said to be snow-white in color. Although this species is seldom found far from the mountains, an indivdual was killed during the winter of 1872-'73 near Fort Stevenson on the Missouri River. It had probably wandered out on to the prairie from the high Bad Lands of the Little Missouri. 11. LITTRA CANADENSIS, Sab. Otter. Although nowhere a very abundant species, the Otter occurs perhaps as frequently on the Missouri River as on the purer mountain-streams. The furs taken on this river, however, are by no means so valuable as those which come from the mountains ; being much lighter in color and less glossy. This difference is regarded by trappers and dealers in furs to be due to the muddy character of the Missouri water. Whether this be the case, or whether it is merely an exemplifica- tion of the law which obtains with regard to the birds aud mammals of the plains as contrasted with those of the mountains, I am unable at present to determine. It seems quite possible, however, that the former explanation is the true one, since animals like the Otter and Beaver, to which latter the above remarks also apply, from the conditions of their lives are but slightly exposed to the modify- ing influences which act on animals living on the uplands and more or less diurnal in their habits. The fur of the Otter is highly prized by the Indians ; being used by them to tie up the hair, to ornament their " coup-sticks ", to cover bow-cases and quivers, and for a variety of other purposes. 12. MEPHITIS MEPHITICA, Baird. Skunk. This species is exceedingly abundant throughout Eastern Montana. While ascending the Missouri River, we often saw them ou the low benches of alluvium left bare by the rapid falling of the waters. Having slipped or climbed down the almost vertical banks to get to the water, they seemed unable to retrace their steps, and could only escape from their prison by swimming. At Camp Lewis, these animals were so numerous as to have become a terrible nuisance. Mr. Reed, the post-trader, told me one morning that during the previous night he had been obliged to rise four times to kill Skunks. 9 w 66 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, 13. TAXLDEA AMERICANA, Bated.- Badger. The Badger was quite common all through the prairie country over which we passed, but was most often seen in the vicinity of the prairie-dog towns. It is a slow animal, and may easily be overtaken by a man on foot. If unable to reach its hole in time to escape, it will turn and rush toward its pursuer in the most courageous manner ; snapping and snarling in such a way as to inspire one with a wholesome respect for it. URSIDiE. 14. PROCTON LOTOR. Storr. Raccoon. This species occurs occasionally along the Missouri River. 15. URSUS HORRIBILIS, Orel. Grizzly Bear. The Grizzly is rather common in some localities along the Missouri; and from the upper deck of the steamer I saw three one evening digging roots in a wide level bottom. In the Bridger Mount- ains and in the Yellowstone Park, they were numerous, so much so that we would often see sev- eral sets of fresh tracks in a morning's ride. From their abuudance in the vicinity of Fort Ellis and Bozeman, it was evident that they were not much disturbed by hunters. In Bozeman, I was shown two cubs about six months old ; and two more sullen and vicious little brutes I never saw. A Black Bear cub of about the same age was as friendly and playful as a puppy ; but no one dared to venture within reach of the Grizzlies. But little seems to be known about the breeding-habits of this bear. It is pretty well estab- lished, however, that the young are brought forth about the 15th of January, and that they are then very small, scarcely larger than new-born puppies. 1G. URSUS AMERICAN US, Pallas. Black Bear. Not nearly so common as the preceding species. Only one living specimen was seen. At a ranch near the bridge over the Yellowstone River, however, I was shown a single skin of the so called Cinnamon Bear, which, I was told, had been taken in the Park. sciurid^:. 17. SCIURUS HUDSONIUS, Pallas. Red Squirrel; Pine Squirrel. Red Squirrels were abundant wherever pine timber was found. In the mountains, they seem to feed chiefly on the seeds of the pine; and I frecpiently came upon little heaps of coues gathered together by the squirrels just as they collect nuts in the East. Most specimens taken in the Yel- lowstone Park seem to be referable to var. Eichardsonii, but several killed in the Fire Hole Valley are not to lie distinguished from ordinary Connecticut specimens. IS. TAMIAS QUADR1YITTATUS, Rich. Missouri Ground Squirrel. This pretty little squirrel seems equally at home among the most desolate Bad Lauds, where no vegetation is to be found save a few straggling sage-bushes, and amid the dense pine forests TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 07 aud luxuriant undergrowth of the mountains. They are very gentle and unsuspicious, and would play about in the most unconcerned manner while 1 was standing within a few feet of them. Although by no means tree-climbers, in the strict acceptation of the term, I often saw them, while at play or when frightened, ascend the pines to a height of 20 or 30 feet. It would seem that they are not exclusively vegetarian in their diet ; for I interrupted one of them while making a meal of the dried carcass of a Hesperomys. It sat up, holding the food in its fore feet in the ordinary manner, aud gnawing the meat from the back and shoulders. No doubt, in some localities it feeds, partially at least, on grasshoppers, as many of the small rodents of the West are known to do. 19. SPERMOPHILUS TRLDECIM-LINEATUS, Mitchell. Striped Prairie Squirrel. This species was common everywhere on the prairies. When anything unusual attracts its attention, it raises itself up on its haunches to examine the object of its curiosity. As this approaches, the squirrel gradually lowers itself until at last it is quite flattened out upon the ground. In this posi- tion, if the eye is removed from it for a moment, it is very difficult to find it again, as its colors harmonize admirably with the yellowish gray of the soil. 20. SPERMOPHILUS RICHARDSONII, Guv. Richardson's Ground Squrrel. This species was not seen until after we had passed Camp Lewis in Montana. Along the North Fork of the Musselshell River it was abundant in the valley, and it was observed in con- siderable numbers about Camp Baker and Port Ellis. In their habits, they resemble the Prairie-dog (Gynomys) more nearly thau any other species with which I am acquainted. They live in communities, act as do the Prairie-dogs when approached, aud are equally hard to secure when shot near the entrance of their burrows. A young one, killed with a charge of fine shot at short range, moved himself over two feet along the smooth sur- face of a flat rock, on which he had been lying when shot, by convulsive pushes of his hind feet. After I had taken him in my hand, these kickings continued for half a minute or more, although the animal could not have been conscious after the shot struck him. I several times saw the young of this species playing with one another very prettily. One standing over the other would hold him down and pretend to bite his head and neck, just as we often see young puppies play together. At Camp Baker, there were many of these animals in and about our camp, and they soou became very tame. Often jthey would come to the open tent-door, and, sitting on their haunches, would watch the occupants with an appearance of the greatest curiosity. We often tried to catch them alive, but were never successful. They would always manage to slip into some hole that we did not know of, just as our hands were on them. Between Fort Ellis and Bozeman there is quite a large settlement of these animals, aud they were more tame here than at any other locality where we met with them. 21. CYNOMYS LUDOVICIANUS, Baird. Prairie-dog. Quite abundant on the plains near the foot of the mountains. 22. ARCTOMYS FLA YI VENTER, Bach. Western Wood-chuck. Common in the mountains, but rather a shy species, more often heard thau seen. 23. CASTOR CANADENSIS, Euhl. Beaver. While ascending the Missouri, we saw the houses and " slides " of the Beaver very frequently, and often, just at evening, the animals themselves were observed, sitting on the banks gazing at 68 EECONNAISSANCE FBOM CAEEOLL, MONTANA, the steamer, or feeding on the tender shoots of the cottonwood and willow. They were by no means shy, and would sometimes permit the vessel to pass within a few yards of them without taking to the water. The streams In the mountains through which we passed were sometimes dammed by the Beavers for miles, and the backwater spreading out over the level valleys makes wide ponds. These in the course of time are partially filled up with the mud carried down by the stream, and when this takes place are deserted by the Beavers, which move away and build another dam some- where else. As the pond fills, a rank growth of rushes and underbrush springs up, and before long, what was a pretty little lake has become an impassable morass. The value of the fur of the Missouri Eiver Beaver is diminished by the same causes spokeu of in reference to that of the Otter. SACCOMYIDiE. 24. THOMOMYS TALPOIDES, {Rich.) Baird. Gopher. An individual of this species was taken among the high mountains near the head of Gardiner's Eiver. It was running over the snow-drifts when captured. MURIDJE. 25. ZAPUS HUDSONIUS, Cones. Jumping Mouse. This species was observed several times in the Bridger Mountains, and again on Cascade Creek near the Yellowstone Eiver. 26. MUS DECUMANUS, Pallas. Brown Eat. The common Wharf-rat is sufficiently abundant in all the settlements on the Missouri Eiver to be a great nuisance and to do considerable damage. In the trader's store at Fort Peck, they were very numerous, so much so that the trader told me that he had recently poisoned one hundred and fifty in one week. 27. MUS MUSCULUS, Linn. House Mouse. Abundant in towns and large settlements, but in isolated ranches replaced by the following species. 28. HESPEEOMYS LEUCOPUS SONOEIENSIS, LcConte. Western White-footed Mouse. This species was very abundant along the North Fork of the Musselshell Eiver and along the Yellowstone. In many places, they had deserted the woods and fields and taken to the ranches, where they are quite as annoying as the common House Mouse. 29. AEVICOLA EIPAEIA, Ord. Meadow Mouse. Very common along the Yellowstone Eiver. 30. FIBEE ZIBETHICTJS, {L.) Cuv. MUSKRAT. Abundant on streams flowing into the Missouri. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAEK. 69 HYSTRICID^E. 31. EEITHIZON EPIXANTHUS, Brandt. Yellow-haired Porcupine. Quite common along the Missouri and in the "bottoms" of streams flowing into that river. We saw signs of its presence also in the National Park along the Yellowstone Eiver. LEPORID.E. 32. LEPUS CAMPESTEIS, Bachman. Prairie Hare. This species is very abundant in some localities, while in others, quite as favorable for it, it is not found at all. In fact, the abundance or scarcity of the Prairie Hare in any district depends almost altogether on the number of wolves to be found in the same tract of country. Where all the coyotes and gray wolves have been killed or driven off, the hares exist in great numbers ; but where the former are abundant, the latter are seldom seen. We saw none near the Missouri Kiver, where the buffaloes, and consequently the wolves, were numerous ; but at Camp Baker, where there were scarcely any wolves, the hares were very common. 33. LEPUS AETEMISIA, Bachman. Sage Eabbit. Very abundant west of the Missouri in suitable localities, but its numbers controlled by the same causes spoken of in regard to the preceding species. CERVID.E. 31. ALCE AMEEIGANA, Jardime. Moose. This species is quite abundant iu suitable localities in the Yellowstone Park, although, like all the large game, it has been driven away from the neighborhood of the trail by the constant pas- sage of travelers. We saw signs of its presence in the Bridger Mountains, and were told that there was a famous country for Moose about fifteen miles from the mouth of Trail Creek. The only living specimen that we saw was a young calf that had been captured by the sou of a settler when it was but a few days old. W r hen seen by us, it was probably about three mouths old, and was a most grotesque object. It was very tame, and would come at the call of its owner. 35. CEEVUS CANADENSIS, Hrxleben. Elk. Elk were rather abundant all through the country which we traversed. They were seen in con- siderable numbers along the Missouri Eiver, among the Bridger Mountains, and in the Yellowstone Park. Those killed early in September, at the commencement of the ruttiug-season, were fat and well flavored, furnishing us with delicious meat. The Elk rut in September, and the young are brought forth late in May or early in June. The "whistling" of the Elk is heard only for a few days during the early part of September. It is made up of several parts, and is so peculiar a cry that it can hardly be described, much less imitated. The first part consists of a prolonged, shrill whistle, which seems to come to the hearer from a long distance, even though the animal uttering it be quite near at hand. This is followed by a succession of short grunting brays or barks, three or four in number, and the call is completed by a low, smooth bellow. Sometimes the whistle is sounded without the succeeding parts. Withal, the cry is an odd one, and one that once heard will always afterward be recognized. 70 EECONNAISSANCE FEOM CAEEOLL, MONTANA, 36. CERVUS VIEGINIANUS, BoMaert. Eed Deer; White-tailed Deer. This species was by no means abundant in the country through which we passed. We saw a few along the Missouri, and I noticed one in the Judith Mountains; but on the whole they were seldom seen. 37. CEEVUS MACEOTIS, Say. Mule Deer; Black-tailed Deer. The Black-tailed Deer, as it is usually called in the Missouri Eiver country, is an abundant spe- cies in Eastern Montana. It is quite unsuspicious, and, except where it has been much hunted, will often permit the hunter to fire two or three shots at it before it takes to flight. This species, and the same may be said of all large game iu that section of the country, is at present most recklessly slaughtered for the hides alone. It will soon, unless some means are taken for its protection, be unknown in the regions where it is now so plentiful. ANTELOPIDiE. 38. ANTILOCAPEA AMEEICANA, Old, Prong-horned Antelope. Everywhere abundant on the plains, the antelope forms one of the most pleasing and attractive features of those barren wastes. Although where they have-been much hunted they are difficult to approach, they are very uususpicious and curious where they have been accustomed to seeing and mixing with large animals. About Gamp Baker and between that post and Fort Ellis, there are large droves of cattle which roam at will over the prairie. The antelope become used to the presence of these large animals, and are often seen mingling with the herds when feeding or resting. One day while out from Camp Baker in search of Tertiary fossils, my companion and myself stopped on the borders of a little stream to rest and cook some food. The saddle-horses and pack mule were picketed near at hand ; a fire had been kindled, and we were discussing some broiled venison, when two antelope suddenly appeared over the brow of a bluff about seventy -five yards distant. On seeing us, they scarcely hesitated, but trotted gracefully on toward us and would, I have no doubt, have come quite up to us, if it had not been that my companion shot them both when they were still about forty yards distant. When in the buffalo country, antelope, if the wind was right, would ofteu approach very near me, several times coming to within a few yards of where I was standing. It is well known that the female antelope sometimes has horns and is sometimes without them- Observations extended over several years, together with the testimony of several plainsmen, among them Charles Eeynolds, a hunter of seventeen years' experience and a man of close observation, lead me to conclude that the horned does are always barreu. I have myself examined a great num- ber of doe antelopes with and without horns, and have never seen one of the former class that gave evidence of having produced or being about to have young. Nor have I ever seen a hornless doe that was barren. The horns on the does vary from one to three inches in length, have no prong, and are soft and easily bent. Their length no doubt depends in a measure upon tho ago of the animal. Those that I have seen lack the hard bony core which is found in the horns of the perfect males. The barren does are always fat, and on this account arc, when it is possible, selected by the hunter in preference to the other members of the herd. OVIDiE. 39. OYIS MONTANA, Cur. Bighorn ; Mountain Sheep. The Bighorn occurs iu considerable numbers in the Judith Mountains and iu tho Yellowstone Park, away from the trail ; but they are so wary that they are not often seen. As is well known, they TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 71 affect the most rugged and barren country, and they are perhaps more plentiful in the Bad Lands of the Judith and Missouri Rivers than anywhere else. On the Cone Butte and Sweet Grass Mountains, which are covered for half their height with a talus of platter-like blocks of trachyte, the sheep in their passage up and down the sides of the hills have worn regular paths among and over the loose blocks, and it is only by following these paths that the ascent can bo made on the cast and south. BOVID^. 40. BOS AMERICANUS, Omclhi, Buffalo; Bison. No Buffalo were seen while we were ascending the Missouri River until just before we reached Carroll. From that place westward, they were occasionally observed until we reached the Judith Gap, although, owing to the presence in the region through which we were passing of the Sioux and Crows, they were not abundant. On our return march, we saw great numbers of them before reaching the Gap, but none afterward until we were quite near the Missouri. The statement that the herds of bulls that are everywhere met with during the autumn consist of individuals driven away from the main herd by their stronger rivals may, I think, be doubted It is said that these assemblages are not seen in spring before the rutting-season. It seems more probable that during the late summer and autumn, many of the old and strong bulls exhausted by the fatigues of the rutting-season, thin in flesh, and generally run down, are unable to keep up with the active and constantly-moving herd of cows and young animals, and devote all their energies to recruiting for the winter. Early in the spring, they rejoin the herd, and remain with it until the end of July. During the past autumn the Buffalo have proceeded down the Missouri River much farther than is usual. They have been quite numerous a few miles north of Fort Berthold, Dakota, and a few stragglers have been seen near Painted Woods, about twenty-five miles above Bismarck. The so-called "Mountain Buffalo" was abundant in the Yellowstone Park. CHAPTER II. BIRDS. TURDID^. 1. TURDUS MIGRATORIUS, Linn. ROBIN. This species was abundant'along the Missouri River, and was also seen in considerable numbers in the mountains about Camp Baker and in the Yellowstone Park. 2. TURDUS SWAINSONI, Cab. Olive-backed Thrush. Quite common along the Missouri above Bismarck. 3. OREOSCOPTES MONTANUS, ( Towns.) Bd. Mountain Mockingbird. I first saw this species on Little Crooked Creek, thirteen miles west of Carroll. It was abundant, and doubtless had bred there, as I took some very young birds. It was generally started from the ground, whence it would fly to the top of some little sage-bush, where it would sit jerking its tail and constantly uttering low cries of anxiety. They were quite shy. and I was often obliged to follow them for some distance before I could secure them. This species was abundant in the valley of the Yellowstone River. i. MIMUS CAROLINENSIS, {Linn.) Gray. Catbird. Quite common along the Missouri River, and very abundant in the Yellowstone Park and in the mountains generally. 5. HARPORHYNCHUS RUEUS, {Linn.) Cab. Brown Thrush; Thrasher. This species was seen occasionally in the Missouri River bottom. CINCLID^. G. CINCLUS MEXICANUS, Sw. Water-ouzel; Dipper. On Cascade Creek, near the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone, we first met with this interesting species. Although tolerably familiar with the accounts of its habits given by various authors, I TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 73 must confess to having experienced a ludicrous feeling of astonishment the first time I saw the bird walk unconcernedly down a sloping rock until its head disappeared under the water. It repeated this performance several times, occasionally rising to the surface as if forced up by the water, and then immediately diving again. When carried down a few yards by tho force of the current, it would fly a short distance up the stream and dive from the wing. With the help of a good glass I saw from the top of the canon two of these little birds flying about over the river where it boiled and surged along below the Lower Falls. SAXICOLIDiE. 7. SIAL1A AECTICA, Stc. Arctic Bluebird; Western Bluebird. One of the most abundant birds in the wooded region through which we passed. It was espe- cially numerous in the Yellowstone Park late in August and early in September, when it formed a large division of the army of small birds that were being constantly started from the ground. PARID^E. S. PAKUS ATEICAPILLUS SEPTENTEIONALIS, (Harris) Alien. Long-- tailed Chickadee. Common along the Missouri River and in the mountains. 9. PARUS MONTANDS, Gamb. Mountain Chickadee. A few birds of this species were seen searchiug for food among the pines that grow among the Bad Lauds near the mouth of the Judith River. In habits, they seemed to resemble closely the preceding species; but the note was slightly different, being more slowly uttered, almost drawled in fact. SITTID.E. 10. SITTA CAROLINENSIS ACULEATA, (Cass.) Allen. Slender-billed Nuthatch. Common in the Yellowstone Park and in the mountains toward the Missouri River. TROGLODYTID.E. 11. SALPINCTES OBSOLETUS, (Say) Gab. Rock Wren. Very abundant in the Bad Lands along the Missouri and among the sandstone bluffs near the Judith Mountains. These birds were also common in the Little Belt Mountains near White-tailed Deer Creek, darting about among old stumps and wood-piles, just as they do among tho bluffs of the Bad Lands. A nest found near Haymaker's Creek was nothing more than a short burrow under a flat rock. The little chamber at the end contained three nearly full-grown young. 12. TROGLODYTES AEDON PARKMANNI, (Aim*.) Coues. Western House Wren. Abundant on tho Missouri near Bismarck. 10 W 74 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, 13. CISTOTUORUS PALUSTRIS, ( Wils.) Baird. Long-billed Marsh. Wren. This species was seen but once, on a reedy slough near the bridge over the Yellowstone River. ALAUDID.E. 14. EREMOPIIILA ALPESTRIS LEUCOLiEMA, (Forst.) Cones. Horned Lark : Shore Laek. Abundant everywhere on the plains. MOTACILLIDiE. 15. ANTEIUS LUDOYICIANUS, (Gm.) Liclit. TITLARK. A single individual of this species was seen among the snows on the highest point of the Britlger Mountains. 16. NEOCORYS SPRAGUEI, (Aud.) Scl. Missouri Skylark. This little-known bird was not uncommon between Camp Lewis and Camp Baker. It was most often seen in the road searching for food, and, when alarmed, running along in the ruts as the Shore Larks are often seen to do. It was usually seen in company with these latter, and seems somewhat to resemble them in its habits. SYLVICOLID^E. 17. DENDRG3CA ESTIVA, (Gm.) Baird. Y'ELLOW WAEBLER ; SUMMER Y^ELLOWBIRD. Abundant and breeding along the Missouri River. IS. DENDRCECA AUDUBONII, {Towns.) Baird. Audubon's Warbler. A family of this species, the young of which had but just left the nest, was seen among the pines near the Y'ellowstone Bridge. 19. (?) SEIURUS AUROCAPILLUS, (Linn.) Sic. GOLDEN-CEOYfNED TnRUSn. The characteristic song of this species was often heard along the Missouri ; but I was unable to secure any specimens, or even to see the birds. 20. GEOTHLYPIS TRICHAS, (Linn.) Cab. Maryland Yellowthroat. Scon quite often along the Missouri. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 75 21. GEOTHLYPIS PHILADELPHIA MACGILLIVRAYf, ( WiU.) Allen. Westeen Mourning Warbler. A female of this species \v;is found dead on the shore of the Yellowstone Lake. 22. ICTERIA VIRENS, (Linn.) Baird. Yellow-breasted Chat. Abundant along the Missouri River. Its familiar notes were heard whenever we passed a wooded bottom, and its curious antics often seen. 23. SETOPHAGA RUTIC1LLA, (Linn.) Sw. Redstart. Seen on several occasions in the Missouri River bottom. TANAGRID/E. 24. PYRANGA LUDOVICIANA, ( Wils.) Bon. Louisiana Tanager. Observed quite frequently in the Yellowstone Park. HIRUNDINIDiE. 25. UIHUNDO HORREORUM, Barton. Barn Swallow. Abundant throughout the region which we traversed. 26. niRUNDO THALASSINA, Sw. Violet-green Swallow. Very numerous about Fort Ellis, and more or less abundant throughout the Yellowstone Park. 27. PETROCHELIDON LUNIFRONS, (Say) Scl. Cliff Swallow. Extremely abundant along the Missouri River, breeding on many of the high bluffs betweeu which it flows. They were also common iu the mouutaius, and especially so about Camp Baker. Early one morning late in July, -while traveling along the road near the Judith Mountains, I was surprised to see great numbers of these birds feeding on the ground. A little investigation showed mo that they were picking up insects that had been chilled by the severe frost of the previous night, and were as yet unable to fly. 28. COTYLE RIPARIA, (Linn.) Boie. Sand Martin ; Bank Swallow. Observed iu large numbers on the Missouri River; often breeding in the same bluffs to which the preceding species had attached their nests. 29. PROGNE SUBIS, Baird, Pueple Martin. Abundant iu the mountains, where it breeds. 76 RECONNAISSANCE FEOM CARROLL, MONTANA, AMPELIDJE. 30. AMPELIS GARRULUS, Linn. Bohemian Waxwing. At Camp Baker, I saw the remains of an individual of tliis species which, I was informed by Major Freeman, had been taken there in winter. It is said to be common there at that season. 31. AMPELIS CEDRORUM, (Viclll.) Gray. Cedar-bird. Quite common along the Missouri. LANIIDJE. 32. COLLURIO LUDOVICIANUS EXCUBITOROIDES, {Sir.) Cones. "White-rumped Sheike. Common along wooded ravines on the plains west of the Missouri. FRINGILLnLE. 33. CARBODACTJS CASSINI, Baird. Cassin's Purple Flnch. A single individual of this species was taken at the Mud Volcano in the Yellowstone Park. 31. LOXIA CURVIROSTRA AMERICANA, (WUs.) Cone*. Red Crossbill. This species was found in great numbers near the Falls of the Yellowstone in August. It had undoubtedly bred in the immediate viciuity, as I saw old birds feeding young just from the nest. Their food seemed to consist entirely of the seeds of the pine. The males uttered almost constantly a short monotonous whistle. 35. CHRYSOMITRIS PINUS, (WUs.) Bp. Pine Finch. Though this species was noticed several times while in the park, it did not seem to be common there. The birds were seen among the pines or else feeding on thistle-blows, after the manner of C. tristis. 36. CHRYSOMITRIS TRISTIS, (Linn.) Bp. Yellow-bird ; Thistle-bird. Abundant along the Missouri and on the plains near the mountains. 37. PLECTROPHANES ORNATUS, Towns. Chestnut-collared Longspur. Abundant, and one of the most characteristic birds of the high plains. The most eastern point at which I saw it was Jamestown, Dak. From that place west, it was more or less com- mon until we left the plain country. Late in July, I took, near Box Elder Creek, young birds that had but just left the nest. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 77 38. PLECTEOPHANES MACCOWN1I, Later. Maccown's Longspur. Abundant, breeding on the plains iu company with the preceding. 1 secured m uiy fully- Hedged birds of the year late in July. 39. PASSEECULUS SAVANNA, ( Wils.) Bp. Savannah Sparrow. Quite common about Camp Baker. 40. rOOCETES GEAMINEUS CONFINIS, (Cm.) Band. Grass Finch; Bay- winged Bunting. Abundant everywhere on the plains. 41. COTFJENICULUS PASSEEINUS PEEPALLIDUS, ( Wils.) Ridyway. Yellow- winged Sparrow. Common on the plains near the Missouri. 42. MELOSPIZA MELODIA FALLAX, ( Wils.) Ridgway. Western Song Sparrow. Common iu the mountains, especially iu low brush along the banks of streams, but so shy as to be quite difficult of approach. 43. J UNCO OEEGONUS, {Towns.) Sel. Oregon Snowbird. Very abundant iu the mountains of the Yellowstone Park. 44. SPIZELLA MONTICOLA, {6m.) Baird. Tree Sparrow. Three or four individuals of this species were seen in the Bridger Mountains early in Sep- tember. 45. SPIZELLA SOCIALIS ARIZONA, {Wils.) Cones. Western Chippy. Abundant in the mountains. 4G. SPIZELLA PALLIDA, (&>.) Bp. Clay-colored Sparrow. Abundant on the plains in bushy raviues and along the river-bottoms. 47. ZONOTRICHIA LEUCOPHEYS, {Forst.) Sw. White crowned Sparrow. This species was abundant in the Yellowstone Park. It was seen during August and Septem- ber iu small flocks of ten or twelve individuals, old and young, feeding on the ground in company with 8. aretica and a host of small sparrows. 78 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, 48. CnONDESTES GRAMMACA, [Say) Bp. Lark Finch. Very abundant on the plains near the Missouri River and westward. 40. CALAMOSriZA BICOLOK, {Towns.) Bp. WHITE-WINGED BLACKBIRD. Very abuudaut ou tbe plains, especially in somewhat broken country along ravines aud dry water-courses, aud also iu the neighborhood of isolated buttes. I found it breeding near Little Crooked Creek. 50. EUSPIZA AMERICANA, [6m.) Bp. Black throated Bunting. A breeding female taken in the Missouri River bottom uear Bismarck early in July was the only individual of this species seen. 51. CYANOSPIZA AMCENA, {Say) Baircl. Lazuli Finch. This beautiful species was abuudaut along the Missouri River bottom. 52. PIFILO MACULATUS ARCTICA, {Sw.) Coues. Arctic Towhee. Abuudaut, breeding iu the Missouri River bottom, and ofteu seen about Camp Baker. ICTERIDJE. 53. DOLICHONYX ORIZIVORUS, {Linn.) Sic. Bob-o-link; Rice-bird. This species was breeding in large numbers in the wide river-bottom uear Bismarck when we passed through early in July. I saw none except here during the trip. 54. MOLOTHRUS PECORIS, [Gm.) Sw. Cow-bunting. Abundant everywhere. 55. AGELiEUS PBKENICEUS, {Linn.) Yieill. Red-winged Blackbird. Noticed on several occasions along the Missouri River. 56. STURNELLA MAGNA NEGLECTA, {Linn.) Allen. Western Meadow Lark. Abundant all through the open country. We heard their sweet songs all through the summer and as late as September IS. 57. SCOLECOPUAGUS CYANOCEPL1ALUS, ( Wagl.) Cab. Blue headed Grakle. 1 found this species very abundant near Carroll, and, in fact, everywhere on the plains. At Little Crooked Creek, their nests were found placed on little " greasewood" bushes ouly two or TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 7 f J three feet in height. The young were most of them so well grown at this time (July 15) that they would leave the nest at my approach and fly a few yards to another bush, where they would sit uttering the sharp cry that we hear from all young blackbirds at that age. "When I approached the nests or young, flocks of a dozen or more old birds would fly over me uttering constantly cries of anxiety. About Camp Baker, they were very numerous; the flocks being so large as fairly to blacken the ground where they alighted. The birds were familiar enough and readily ventured up to our tent doors. CORVIDyE. 58. COEVUS COEAX, Linn. Eaven. Bather common on the plains west of Carroll. 59. COEYUS AMEPJCANUS, And. Crow. Extremely abundant on the streams flowing out of the Sweet Grass Hills. They were breed- ing here in the tall undergrowth that fringed Box Elder and Armell's Creek, and on the return march were seen in largo flocks feediug on the dead buffalo that strewed the prairie. It is hardly necessary to remark that they were very tame, in striking contrast to their eastern relatives. 60. PICICOEYDS COLUMBIANUS, (Wils.) Bp. Clark's Crow. I first noticed this species near Camp Baker, but it did not become very abundant until we reached the Yellowstone Eiver on our road to the park. Its striking plumage and lond harsh voice makes this bird one of the most noticeable features of the animal life of this region. CI. PICA MELANOLEUCA HUDSONICA, {Sab.) Coues. Magpie. Abundant everywhere in the mountains, and universally execrated by hunters and trappers on account of the injury it does in winter to the fresh skins that are stretched out to dry. and the annoyance that it causes to their sore-backed animals. C2. CYANUEUS STELLEEI MACEOLOPHUS, {Baird) Allen. Long-crested Jay. Abundant from the Bridger Mountains through the Yellowstone Park. In habits, this species resembles most closely G. cristatus; but its notes are quite different, being harsh and grating, more like those of P. columbiamis. 03. PEEISOEEUS CANADENSIS CAriTALIS, Baird. Gray Jay. I found this species extremely abundant all through the mountains of the Yellowstone Park. They are noisy restless birds, continually passing to aud fro among the'branches of the pines witli easy, graceful movements. They are at all times bold and even impudent, remaining in the trees, beneath which we encamped, aud frequently descending to the ground within a few feet of some one of the party to pick up a piece of meat or a crumb of bread. When a morsel of food has been secured, it is taken to a low limb and there leisurely broken up and devoured. This species is said to cause considerable annoyance to trappers by removing the bait from their mink aud marten traps. 80 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, TYRANNISE. 64. TYRANNUS CAROLINENSIS, (G-m.) Tcmm. Kingbird. Abundant along the Missouri and on the plains to the west. 05. TYRANNUS YERTICALIS, Say. Arkansas Flycatcher. Abundant along the Missouri ard on the plains. CO. SAYORNIS SAYUS, {Bp.) Baird, Say's Flycatcher. I saw but two or three individuals of this species, all of them near Crooked Creek. G7. CONTOPUS YIRENS RICHARDSONII, (Sw.) Allen. Western Wood Pewee. I frequently noticed this species while in the Geyser Basins, but did not observe it at any other point on the route. In the Lower Geyser Basin, I saw one of these birds taken by a Sharp-shinned Hawk, which was immediately attacked with the utmost fury by another Pewee. The latter kept up the chase for a considerable distance ; finally following his enemy into the woods. CAPRIMULGID^. CS. CHORDEILES YIRGINIANUS HENRYI, {6m.) Coues. Western Nighthawk. This species was common ou the plains. Near Little Crooked Creek, late in July, I took a female sitting on two eggs, which were far advanced toward hatching. ALCEDINID^. 09. ALCEDO ALCYON, (Linn.) Bote. Kingfisher. Abundant on all streams which we passed, though apparently less common on the Missouri below Carroll than elsewhere. This is probably due to the fact that the river below this point is very muddy, and the Kingfishers are hence unable to find and pursue their prey as successfully as in the clear streams of the mountains. CUCULIDiE. 70. COCCYZUS ERYTHROPHTHALMUS, ( Wils.) Bp. Black-billed Cuckoo. Common along the Missouri, at least as far as Wolf Point, forty miles below Fort Peck. PICIDiE. 71. PICUS VILLOSUS HARRISII, {Linn.) Allot. Harris' Woodpecker. Seen once in the Little Belt Mountains near Camp Baker. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 81 72. PIOUS PUBESCENS, Linn, Downy Woodpecker. Occasionally noticed in the Yellowstone Park near the bridge. 73. SPHYEAPICUS THYEOIDEUS, {Cass.) Bain]. Black-breasted Woodpecker. Observed but once, near Tower Creek in the Yellowstone Park. 74. MELANEEPES EEYTHROCEPHALUS, (Linn.) 8u>. Eed-headed Woodpecker. Very common wherever there was timber. 75. MELANEEPES TOEQUATtJS, (Wile.) Bp. Lewis' Woodpecker. We first saw this species in the mountains near Camp Baker, where it was quite abundant. It was afterward seen in considerable numbers near the mouth of Trail Creek, and along other little timbered streams running into the Yellowstone River. These birds were several times seen search- ing for food upon the ground after the manner of Colaptes. 7G. COLAPTES AURATUS, {Linn.) Sw. Golden-winged Woodpecker; Flicker. Abundant along the Missouri Eiver, at least as far up as Fort Bnford. 77. COLAPTES MEXICANUS, Sw. Eed-shafted Woodpecker. Abundant about Camp Baker and in the Yellowstone Park. STRIGLD.E. 78. BUBO V1EGINIANUS, (Gm.) Bp. Great Horned Owl. Seen once near Carroll. 79. OTUS PALUSTEIS, (Bcchst.) Gould. SHORT-EARED OWL. Common on the plains. SO. SPHEOTYTO CLNICULAEIA HYPOGJEA, (Bp.) Cones. Burrowing Owl. Seen occasionally on the plains. FALCONID^E. 81. CIECUS CYANEUS HUDSONIUS, (Linn.) Schl Marsh Hawk. Very common throughout the country which we passed over. 11 w 82 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, 82. NISUS FUSCUS, (Gm.) Kaup. Sharp-shinned Hawk. This species was seen but twice; oue specimen having been taken on tbe shores of the Yellow- stone Lake, and another observed in the Lower Geyser Basin. S3. NISUS COOPEEI, (Bp.) Bid g way. Coopek's Hawk. A single individual of this species was seen while we were ascending the Missouri. 84 FALCO LANIAEIUS POLYAGEUS, {Cass.) Bidgway. American Lanner Falcon. This species, although not common in the country through which we passed, was occasionally seen, and no doubt bred on the mountains. I felt quite sure that a pair had a nest on Cone Butte, but was unable to find it. "While at Camp Baker, a bird of this species used to fly over our camp every morning to a corral just beyond, where he would secure a blackbird or two for breakfast, and then return to the mountains. 85. FALCO COMMUNIS ANATUM, {Gm.) Bidgway. Duck Hawk. While ascending the Missouri, we several times saw the nests of this species placed on little ledges of the high washed clay bluffs by which the river is bordered. These nests all contained unlledged young. Oue or both of the parents was always to be seen sitting near the nest. This species was abundant in the valley of the Yellowstone above Emigrant Peak, and had no doubt bred there, as I took a very young bird, SG. FALCO COLTJMBARIUS (?) EICHARDSONT, {Linn.) Bidgway. Bichakdson's Falcon. A Tigeon Hawk, probably to be referred to this variety, was seen September 5, hovering low over the summit of the Bridger Mountains. 87. FALCO SPAEVEEIUS, Linn. Sparrow Hawk. Abundant on the plains and along the Yellowstone Eiver. SS. BUTEO BOEEALIS, {Gm.) Yieill. Eed-tailed Hawk. Seen on several occasions on the Missouri Eiver. 89. BUTEO BOEEALIS CALURUS, {Gm.) Cass. Western Eed-tailed Hawk. This was the most common hawk seen in the mouutains. We must have seen fifteen or twenty the day that we passed through Bridger's Pass ; and they were equally abundant in some parts of the Yellowstone Tark. 90. BUTEO SWAINSONI, Bp. Swainson's Hawk. Rather numerous in the valley of the Yellowstone. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 83 91. AKCH1BUTEO LAGOPUS SANCTI-JOHANNIS, (Gm.) Ridgway. Rough-legged Hawk. Abundant about Gardiner's Springs and in the valley of the Yellowstone. 92. AECHIBUTEO FERRUGINECTS, (Licht.) Gray. Ferruginous Hawk. This striking species was common on the plains from the Missouri River westward until we reached the mountains. It was often seen sitting on the little mounds raised by the prairie-dogs, gazing intently at the entrance of the burrow, apparently waiting to seize the first one that should appear. 93. PANDION HALIAETUS, (Linn.) Guv. Fish-hawk. The Fish-hawk, although occasionally seen on the Missouri, is not, iu my experience at least, common on that river below the point where it becomes muddy. Above Carroll, however, the river is quite clear, and there it seems much more numerous. It was nowhere so abundant as n the Yellowstone River; and while traveling along that stream I saw from six to twelve of these birds every day. At the falls of the Yellowstone, this species was constantly iu sight, sometimes sailing like a black speck close to the water far below us, or balancing itself on some dead pine that grew half-way up the sides of the cauon. 91. AQCILA CHRYSAETOS, Linn. Golden Eagle. Occurs more or less frequently all through the couutry which we traversed, but is most often seen iu the mountains and ou high wooded buttes. I saw it at the Forks of the Musselshell, near Bridger Pass, and once over the Missouri River. 95. HALIAETUS LEUCOCEPHALUS, (Linn.) Sic. White-headed Eagle. Seen several times ou the Missouri. CATHARTIDJE. 9G. GATHARTES AURA, (Linn.) HI. Turkey Buzzard. Abundant ou the plains. COLUMBILLE. 97. ECTOPISTES MIGEATORIA, (Linn.) Sw. Passenger Pigeon. Seen iu small companies iu July along the Missouri River bottom, where it was doubtless breeding. 98. ZENJEDURA OAROLINENSIS, (Linn.) Bp. Common Dove; Turtle Dove. Commou everywhere. 84 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, TETRAONIDiE. 99. TETRAO OBSCURUS, Say. Dusky Grouse; Blue Grouse. We found this species very abundant from the time tbat we reached the mountains until we left them again. The first seen were a mother with a brood of small young, taken in the Judith Mountains. From this point to and through the Yellowstone Park they were frequently met with. There seems to be a wide variation in the time at which these birds deposit their eggs. In the Musselshell Canon and along Deep Creek I saw many broods of half-grown chicks, and in some cases the young were nearly as large as the parent bird. This was late in July. On the 4th of August, I saw a brood on an extensive prairie in the Little Belt Mountains near Camp Baker, which must have been less than a week old; at all events, they were so young that I had no diffi- culty in catching several of them alive. Two weeks later I saw a brood on Trail Creek near the Yellowstone River, that were certainly not more than ten days or two weeks old. The females with their young seem to pass the night in the creek-bottoms, and it is in such places that they must be looked for early in the morning and late in the afternoon. About 9 or 10 o'clock a. m., they proceed on foot to the uplands, where they remain until about two hours before sunset, when they come down to the stream to drink, and remain all night. In returning from the hills, they always fly. The young, when alarmed or uneasy, have a fashion of erecting the feathers of the sides of the neck just below the head, which, when seen at a little distance, gives them a very odd appearance. The female, when the young birds are nearly approached or captured, makes no attempt to draw away the enemy by any of the artifices employed by Bonasa umbellus, but contents herself with wandering anxiously about at a short distance, holding the tail quite erect, and clucking after the manner of the domestic hen under similar circumstances. The young when well grown are delicious eating, and many were killed by us for food when large game could not be obtained. When a brood has been scattered, the individuals which compose it lie well and furnish fair shooting. Though swift fliers, they are easily killed in the open, and I secured most of those that I killed with mustard-seed shot. The birds would sometimes let me approach within three or four feet of them before rising, and they were pretty objects as they crouched waiting for me to take one more step toward them. The body flattened out on the ground, the head and neck straight and pressed against the earth, the tail slightly elevated, and all the while the bright brown eye watching for the slightest sign that the bird's presence was discovered, together made up a picture which, though familiar enough, ever possesses a new interest for me. But one brood was seen in heavy pine timber. In this case, the family, which consisted of the mother and six or eight well-grown young, took refuge in the lower limbs of a large pine, from which they refused to move until several shots had been fired at them. Having in mind Dr. Cooper's statement that, in Oregon and Northern California, this species is not seen in winter, I made diligent inquiry among the settlers in the mountains of Montana for information on this point. All of those with whom I spoke informed me that the Blue Grouse was apparently quite as abundant in winter as in summer. It is to be noticed that I found this species almost invariably in the open creek-bottoms, and sometimes in quite extensive prairies, although always among the mountains. This state of things, which is exactly the reverse of the experience of most other observers, was no doubt due, in part at least, to the fact that the birds had their tender young with them, and that these would be more safe in the valleys than on the mountain-sides. During the trip, not a single adult male was secured. On the high mountains, however, at and near timber-line, I several times started single birds and small packs of this species. The only one secured in such situations was a barren female ; but I think it probable that most of those seen here were old males. The specimens preserved on the trip seem to be intermediate between varieties obscurus and richardsoni. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 85 100. CENTEOCERCUS UROrn ASIAN US, (Bp.) Sw. Sage Grouse. We first saw this species near Wolf Point on the Missouri, where several were started from the river-bottom by the passage of the steamboat. On Box Elder Creek, where we remained in camp for several days late in July, they were extremely numerous, and broods of young were seen of all ages, from the little cbicks that could fly but a few feet to the large strong winged birds that almost equaled their parents in weight. All were painfully ignorant of the effect of firearms, and I have seen a brood of ten or a dozen well-grown birds walk quietly along before two men who were trying to shoot their heads off with rifles, until half their number had been killed. At each report, they would stretch up their necks and gaze around as if a little curious to find out whence the noise proceeded and what it meant, and would then move leisurely on toward the hills, feeding as they went. If, however, a ball touched, but did not fatally wound or cripple a bird, and it rose or fluttered about on the ground, the whole flock took the alarm and were off without delay. About Box Elder, they seemed to pass the night on the uplands, coming down to the water morning and evening, and retiring to the higher ground before the sun became hot in the morning, and just about sunset in the evening. The young, even when nearly full grown, utter a plaintive peeping cry, which has the peculiar effect of appearing to come from a long distance off, even though the bird may be quite close at hand. When seen during the summer, the birds were, of course, in families; but ou our return inarch in September, they had commenced collecting together, and packs of from thirty to fifty individuals were several times seen. 101. PED1CECETES PLTASIANELLUS COLUMBIAN US, {Ord.) Coucs. Sharp-tailed Grouse. I saw this species only ou the plains, a state of things which somewhat surprised me; for, although, of course, essentially a prairie bird, I found it during the summer of 1874 in great num- bers among the Black ITills of Dakota. They were more numerous on Box Elder Creek than at any other point ; and indeed they seem to prefer streams which have a wide bottom overgrown with rose-bushes and other shrubs, on the fruit of which they feed. The young birds were from one-half to two-thirds grown late in July. During our passage down the Missouri River, we often saw this species on the dry sand-bars that dotted the river, rolling and dusting themselves in the sand. I did not see these birds roosting on trees until about September 10, at which time the weather at night was quite cold. 102. BONASA UMBELLUS UMBELLOIDES, (Linn.) Baird. Rocky Mountain Ruffed Grouse. Although this species was said to be extremely abundant in the Yellowstone Park, we saw very few of them, not twenty in all. In habits, they seem to resemble almost exactly the eastern variety. A female, with six or eight young only about a week old, was seen August 19. The young, instead of hiding, flew into the lowest branches of a dead pine, a distance of three or four feet, which they just managed to accomplish, while the female fluttered about at my feet as if in the death agony. I had not the heart to molest the charming little family, and after watching them for a short time I moved off, leaving them to their own devices. CHARADRIID^E. 103. .EGIAL1TIS VOCIFERUS, (Linn.) Bp. Killdeer Plover. Abundant, breediug on the plains near water. 86 EECONNAISSANCE FEOM GAEEOLL, MONT AX A, 104. iEGIALITIS MONTANUS, (Toicns.) Baird. Mountain Plover. I did not find this species at all abundant in that portion of Montana which we traversed. Two females, each followed by a newly-hatched young one, were taken near Haymaker's Creek August 1, and were the only individuals observed during the trip. The mothers displayed much anxiety for their young, and endeavored to lead me away from them by the artifices usual with this family of birds. The young were pretty but rather awkward little objects, and tottered along with uncertain steps, as if their legs were too long and they found difficulty iu balancing them- selves upon them. RECURVIROSTRIDaE. 105. EECURVIEOSTEA AMERICANA, Gm. Avocet. This species abounds on the small alkaline pools that are so common iu Dakota, and is quite common in that portion of Montana through which we passed. It was quite numerous on the Yellowstone Eiver above the falls, where the stream is wide, and the wet, grassy banks slope gradually dowu to the water's edge ; and many were seen on the shores of the lake. I also saw a large flock on a small pool near Fort Ellis. They were rather shy, rising iu a thick flock at long gunshot, and making the air ring with their shrill cries. A wounded bird unable to fly attempted to escape by diving, making use of the wings for progression under water. PHALAROPODID.E. 100. LOBIPES HYPEEBOEEUS, (Linn.) Guv. Northern Phalarope. A flock of thirty or forty of these graceful birds was seen on a small pool near Fort Ellis. SCOLOPACLTLE. 107. GALLINAGO WILSONII, (Temm.) Bp. "Wilson's Snipe. Oue individual seen near Fort Ellis. 10S. TEINGA MINUTILLA, Vieill. Least Sandpiper. This species was only observed near Fort Ellis, where, however, it was abundant early in September. 100. TEINGA BAIEDII, Cones. Baird's Sandpiper. This species was noticed at Fort Ellis, at Gardiner's Springs, and in the Lower Geyser Basin. In the last-mentioned locality, it was seen iu flocks of from fifty to sixty individuals. 110. TOTANUS SEMIPALMATUS, {Gm.) Temm, ^VlLLET. Abundant on alkaline pools iu Dakota and on the Yellowstone Lake. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 87 111. TOTANUS MELANOLEUCUS, (Gm.) YiciU. Gkeat Yellowshanks ; Telltale. Abandant on the Yellowstone Lake, and, during September, on the Missouri and streams ilowiug into it. 112. TOTANUS FLAYIPES, (Gm.) Yieill. Lessee Yellowlegs. A few birds of this species were seen near Fort Ellis and on the shores of the Yellowstone Lake. 113. TOTANUS SOLITAEIUS, (Wife.) And. Solitary Sandpiper. This species was observed but twice during the summer; once near Fort Ellis and once in the Upper Geyser Basin. 114. TRINGOIDES MACULAEIUS, (Linn.) Gray. Spotted Sandpiper. Abundant along the Missouri River, and along mountain-streams as well. On the Missouri, when startled by the approach of the steamboat, they would fly a short distance, and then alight on the slender and pliable twigs projecting from the fresh beaver-houses, on which they would balance themselves with the oddest bobbings and noddings imaginable. 115. ACTITUEUS BARTRAMIUS, ( Wils.) Bp. Bartramian Sandpiper; Upland Plover. Abundant on the plains in Montana. Late in July,l secured young birds nearly as strong on the wing as their parents, and at the same time noticed broods of newly-hatched young. 116. NUMENIUS LONGIEOSTEIS, Wils. LONOr-BILLED CURLEW. Abundant on the plains. Near Bos Elder, and all along the base of the Judith Mountains, large scattering companies of these birds were seen feeding on the prairies. They were quite shy, and could not often be approached within gun-range except by strategy. As we drew near, they would rise, oue after another, each uttering his loud, rolling note, until finally all were on the wing. They would then, in a dense flock, for a short time perform a variety of beautiful evolutions high in the air, finally re-alighting at a considerable distance. ARDELD^E. 117. AEDEA HEEODIAS, Linn. Great Blue Heron. This species was abundant along the Missouri Eiver in July and September. Prominent objects as they stood on the bare sand-bars, they often drew half a dozen rifle-shots from the steamer as it passed. gruid^:. US. GEUS CANADENSIS, {Linn.) Temm. Sandhill Crane. Very abundant all through the Yellowstone Park, but not seen on the plains. 88 EECONNAISSANCE FEOM CAEEOLL, MONTANA, RALLID.E. 119. FULICA AMEBICANA, 6m. Coot; Mud-hen. Abundant in Dakota. ANATIDiE. 120. (?) CYGNTJS BUCCINATOE, Rich. Trumpeter Swan. A single swan seen in flight at the Yellowstone Lake was probably of this species. It was taken on this water by Mr. Merriam in 1S72. 121. ANSEB HYPEEBOEEUS, Pall. Snow Goose. A flock of these birds were seen on the Yellowstone Eiver near the lake ; and the species was again observed in considerable numbers on the alkaline pools near the Missouri Eiver in October. 122. BEANTA CANADENSIS, (Linn.) Gray. Canada Goose ; Common Wild Goose. The common wild goose was seen in the greatest abundance on the Missouri Eiver, and was numerous ou the Yellowstone Lake as well. Early in July, while on the way from Bismarck to Carroll, we saw many broods of young, and, when coming down the river late in September, hardly an hour passed without our seeing one or more large flocks of these birds. The young gosliugs are pretty little things, and the devotion to them of the mother is interesting. Four was tlie smallest number seen in a brood, and nine the largest. Ou one occasion 1 saw what seemed to be a union of two families. The two females swam in advance side by side, while the ganders brought up the rear, and the nine young ones followed directly behind the females. When approached while in the water, the birds would gradually sink until nothing but the bill and upper part of the head appeared above the surface ; the young would then disappear one after another, and last of all the old female would dive. The male always flew off to a safe distance before the diving commenced ; but in no instance did I see the mother leave her brood. 123. ANAS BOSCHAS, Linn. Mallard. Abundant, breeding along the Missouri and on smaller streams in the mountains. 121. DAFILA ACUTA, (Linn.) Bp. Pin-tail Duck. Observed in considerable numbers on the Yellowstone Lake. 125. CIIAULELASMUS STEEPEECS, (£i»n.) Gray. Gadtvall; Gray Duck. Abundant on alkaline pools in Dakota; a female with a brood of newly-hatched young was seen on Box Elder. 120. MAEECA AMEEICANA, (6m.) Steph. American Widgeon. Abundant on many of the streams in Dakota and Montana. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 89 127. QUERQUEDULA CAEOLINENSIS, (dm.) Steph. Green-winged Teal. Abundant, breeding on streams in Eastern Montana. On Deep Creek, early in August, I saw many broods of young apparently only a few days old. 12S. QUERQUEDULA DISCORS, (Linn.) Steph. Blue-winged Teal. Seen in considerable numbers on the Missouri River in September. 129. SPATULA CLYPEATA, (Linn.) Boie. Shovelee. Quite abundant on alkaline pools iu Dakota. 130. FULIGULA AFFINIS, Eijton. Lessee Blackhead. Abundant on alkaline pools in Dakota. 131. BUCEPHALA ALBEOLA, (Linn.) Bd. DlPPEE; BUFFLE-HEAD. This species was rather common on the little mountain lakes and streams of Montana. On one of the forks of Deep Creek, a female with half a dozen young not yet able to fly, was seen, and several of the young secured. Afterward families of this species were quite frequently observed 132. (!) OEDEMIA FUSCA, (Linn.) Flem. White-winged Suef Duck. Seen on the Yellowstone Lake in August. I mention this species with a query, because, although 1 recognized it satisfactorily to myself, I took no specimens. The locality is quite out of the range usually ascribed to this bird. 133. MERGUS MERGANSER, Linn. GOOSANDEE. Observed iu considerable numbers on the Yellowstone Lake. Iu August, the young were not yet able to fly. 134 MERGUS CUCULLATUS, Linn. Hooded Meegansee. Rather common along the Missouri River. PELECANDXE. 135. TELECANUS TRACHYRHYNCHUS, Lath. White Pelican. Very abundant on the Yellowstone Lake, but shy and difficult of approach. 12 W 90 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA. LARIELE. 136. LARUS DELAWARENSIS, Ord. Ring-billed Gull. Common on Yellowstone Lake and on the Missouri River. COLYMBID.E. 137. COLYMBUS TORQUATUS, Brunn. Loon; Great Northern Diver. Observed frequently on alkaline pools in Dakota and on the Missonri River. PODICIPIDiE. 138. PODICEPS CORNUTUS, Lath. Horned Grebe. Abundant during migrations on tlie Missouri, and all streams and pools in tlie mountains. * 139. PODILYMBUS PODICERS, (Linn.) Lain: PlED-BILLED GREBE. Abundant on alkaline pools in Dakota. PARTIAL LIST OF THE MAMMALS AMD BIRDS OF THE YELLOWSTONE FARE. This list, which is of course very incomplete, consists merely of the observations of Mr. C. LT. Merriam in 1872 aud those made by myself in 1875. Such species as were noticed by only one observer are followed bv the initial letter of his name. 3IAMMALS. 1. Nycticejus erepmscularis, Allen, M. 2. Ycsi)ertUio lucifugus, LeConte, M. 3. Vespertilio yumanensis, Allen, M. 4. Felis concolor, Linn, G. 5. Lynx rufus, Raf., G. 6. Lynx canadensis, Raf., G. 7. Canis oecidentalis, Rich., G. 8. Canis latrans, Say, G. 9. Mustela americana, Turtou, G. 10. Putorius pusillus, Aud. & Bach., M. 11. Gulo luscits, Sabine. 12. Mephitis mcphitica, Baird, M. 13. Mephitis hicolor, Gray, M. 1-1. Ursus horribiUs, Ord. 15. Ursus americanus, Pallas. 16. Sciurus hudsonius, Pallas. 17. Tamias quadrivittatus, Say. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PABK. 91 IS. SpermophUus townsendi, Bach., M. 19. Arctomys flaviventer, Bach. 20. Castor canadensis, Kuhl. 21. Thomomys talpoides, Rich. 22. Zapus hudsonius, Coues. 23. Hesperomys leucopus sonoriensis, LeOoute. 24. Arvicola riparla, Orel. 25. Urithizon cpixanthus, Braudt. 26. Lepus bairdii, Kayden, M. 27. Lagomys princeps, Rich., M. 28. Alee americanus, Jardine. 29. Cervus canadensis, Exlebeii. G. 30. Cervus macrotis, Say, G. 31. Antilocapra amerieana, Ord. M. 32. Ovis montana, Cuv., G. 33. Bos americanus, Ginelin, G. BIRDS. 1. Tardus migratorius, Linn. 2. Oreoscoptes montanus, (Towns.) Baird. 3. Mimus carolinensis, (Linn.) Gray. 4. Cinclus mexicanus, Sw. 5. Sialla aretica, Sw. 0. Regulus calendula, (Linn.) Licht., M. 7. Pants atricapillus septentrionalis, (Harris) Allen, G. 8. rams montanus, Garnbel, M. 9. tsitta carolinensis aculeata, (Cass.) Allen. 10. Troglodytes aedon parhnanni, (Aud.) Cones, M. 11. Cistothorus palustris, (Wils.) Baird, G. 12. Anthus ludovicianus, (Gin.) Licht., M. 13. Dendrccca audubonii, (Towns.) Baird. 14. Geothlypis Philadelphia macgillivrayi, (Wils.) Allen, G 15. Myiodioctes pusillus, (Wils.) Bp., M. 1(3. Pyranga ludoriciana, (Wils.) Bp. 17. Hirundo horreorum, Barton. IS. Hirundo thalassina, Sw. 19. Petrochclidon lunifrons, (Say) Scl. 20. Carpodacus cassini, Baird. 21. Loxia curvirostra amerieana, (Wils.) Coues, G. 22. Chrysomitris pinus, (Wils.) Bp. 23. Pocccwtcs gramineus confinis, (Gm.) Bd. 24. Melospiza melodia fallax, (Wils.) Ridgway. 25. Junco orcgonus, (Towns.) Baird. 26. Spizella soeialis arizonw, (Wils.) Coues. 27. Zonotriehia leucophrys, Sw. 28. Zonotriehia leucophrys intermedia, Ridgway, M. 29. Chondcstcs grammaca, (Say) Bp., M. 30. GoniapJuca mclanocephala, (Sw.) Gray, M. 31. Cyanospiza amcena, (Say) Baird, M. 32. Pipilo chlorurus, (Towns.) Baird, M. 33. Molothrus pecoris, (Gin.) Sw., G. 34. Icterus bullocUi, (Sw.) Bp., M. 35. Picicorvus columbianus, (Wils.) Bp., G. 36. Pica mclanoleuca hudsonica, (Sab.) 92 EECONNAISSA^CE FEOM CABBOLL, MONTANA. 37. Gyanurus stelleri macrolophus, (Baird) Allen. 38. Perisoreus canadensis capitalist Baird. 39. Tyrannus verticalis, Say, M. 40. Gontopus borealis, Baird, M. 41. Contopus virens richardsonii, (Sw.) Allen. 42. Empidonax pusillus, Cab., M. 43. Geryle alcyon, (Linn.) Boie, G. 44. Picus villosus harrisii, (Linn.) Allen, M. 45. Pious pubescens, Linn., G. 46. Picoides areticus, (Sw.) Gray, M. 47. Picoides americanus dorsalis, (Brehm) Baird, M. 48. SpTiyrapicus tliyroideus, (Cass.) Baird. 49. Melanerpes erythrocephalus, (Linn.) Sw., G. 50. Melanerpes torquatus, (Wils.) Bp. 51. Golaptes mexicanus, Sw. 52. Otus vulgaris wilsonianus, (Less.) Allen, M. 53. Surnia ulula hudsonia, (Gm.) Coues, M. 54. Circus cyaneus liuclsonius, (Linn.) Schl. 55. Nisus'fu'scus, (Gm.) Kaup. 56. Falco communis anatum, (Gm.) Eidgway, G. 57. Falco sparverius, Linn. 58. Buteo borealis calurus, (Gm.) Eidgway. 59. Buteo swainsoni, Bp. GO. ArcMbuteo lagopus sancti-johannis, (Gm.) Eidgway, G. 61. Pandion lialiaetus, (Linn.) Cuw 62. Tetrao obscurus, Say. 63. Bonasa umbellus umbelloidcs, (Liuu.) Baird. 64. JSgialitis wciferus, (Linn.) Bp. 65. Becurvirostra americana, Gm., G. 66. Tringa bairdii, Coues. 67. Totanus semipalmatus, (Gm.) Temra., G. 68. Totanus melanoleucus, (Gm.) Vieill. 69. Totanus Jlavipes, (Gm.) Vieill., G. 70. Totanus solitarius, (Wils.) Aud., G. 71. Grus canadensis, (Linn.) Temm., G. 72. Cygnus buccinator, Bicb. 73. Anser liyperboreits, Pallas, G. 74. Branta canadensis, (Linn.) Gray, G. 75. Dafila acuta, Jenyns, G. 76. Bucephala albeola, (Linn.) Baird, G. 77. (?) CEdemia fusca, (Linn.) Flem., G. 78. Mergus merganser Linn, G. 79. Pelecanus tracltyrliynclius, Latb., G. SO. Larus delawarensis, Ord, G. 81. Podiccjys cornutus, Latb., G. RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. GEOLOGICAL REPORT. EDWARD S. DANA and GEO. BIRD GKINNELL. LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. Yale College, New Haven, Conn., June 1, 1876. Sir : We have tbo honor to hand you herewith a report on the geology of a " Eeconnaissance from Carroll, Montana, to the Yellowstone Park, and return," made under your command during the months of July, August, and September, 1875. In submitting the narrative of our examination of the country passed over, we wish to express to you our grateful appreciation of your uniform kindness, and constant willingness to facilitate our investigations by every means in your power. To Lieut. C. F. Eoe, who commanded our escort from Carroll to Camp Baker, we are under obligations for many kindnesses. At Camp Baker, Fort Ellis, and Camp Lewis, we were the recipients of most generous hospitalities from the officers of those posts ; and our brief delays at those points are remembered by us as being among the pleasantest days of the trip. The vertebrate fossils collected during the summer were submitted to Prof. O. C. Marsh, and by him identified. The invertebrates were examined by Mr. E. P. Whitfield, of Albany, and bis identifications, with occasional comments on the specimens, will be found in the body of the repoft. A paper by Mr. Whitfield, describing such new forms as were discovered during the summer, accompanies our report. To both of these gentlemen our thanks are due for the many favors that we have received from them. We remain, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servants, Edward S. Dana. Geo. Bird Grinnell. Col. Wm. Ludlow, Chief Engineer of the Department of Dakota, Saint raul, Minn. GEOLOGICAL REPORT By Edward S. Da PRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE ALLUVIAL DEPOSITS OF THE UPPER MIS- SOURI RIVER. The towu of Carroll is situated in the alluvial bottom of the Missouri, which is at this point quite extensive, and well timbered with a fine growth of cotton wood. The course of the river-valley is here easterly, and it continues for a considerable distance with but little change in general dirce. tion, though the valley varies very considerably in width between the high walls of Cretaceous clays which rise on either side of it. The river sometimes winds along through a bottom two or three miles wide, and again is confined to a narrow passage between the steep washed bluffs several hundred feet in height. The alluvial pheuomena are those which are always observed under similar circumstances, though they take place here more rapidly and on a larger scale than is often the case, in consequence of the vast amount of solid matter which the river is constantly carrying down. On this account, the " muddy Missouri" offers peculiar advantages for the study of alluvial changes ; and, could a series of observations be carried on at a few points during two or three seasons, a large amount of data might be collected which would lead to interesting and valuable conclusions. At Carroll, we have an example of a condition of things which may be observed at almost any point in this part of the river, and a few words of explanation may consequently not be out of place. At «, on the outer bank of the river, the current is strong, and has forced itself close up under the high bluffs, whose top forms the border of the broad prairie above. The older deposits, at points such as this, are directly acted upon by the running water, and are thus grad- ually undermined and worn away, the material being carried on by / the current. Upon the opposite side of the stream, at c, the current is weaker, the water shallow and eddying, and the shore runs out cmamxa- to meet the water in a long low sand-bar. At b, there is a high ] bank of alluvial clays, 10 feet or more above the stream, deposited | long before in time of flood, but now being rapidly torn away. Still c * again at a' the water washes at the foot of the older bluffs, while opposite is the never-failing sand-point. Thus the river winds on its course, touching the hills, which form the true limit of its valley, only here aud there. For the greater part of its course, it is confined between the alluvial banks. It is safe to say that, except in the spring, the river deposits compara- tively little solid matter, and this, chiefly on the sand-spits and bars, where the force of the moving water is small. The work of the river is at^this season one of destruction more than deposition, tearing down what it hag 13 w 98 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, itself previously built up, and also to a less extent carrying away tbe older deposits. It acts alone, unaided by any minor tributary streams; for tbey are dry except in tbe early season. Even during tbe summer, however, tbe cbaunel is constantly changing. Tbe mud-and-sand bars which ai - e everywhere formed do not long retain their positions, bat are moved on down tbe river and heaped up again iu otber places. Thus the process is one of gradual trausferral down the stream; the solid matter going to make one alluvial bank after another until it is finally deposited in the Gulf of Mexico. It is interesting to note, in this connection, the explanation recently given by Frof. James Thomson (Proc. Royal Society, 1876) of the origin of the windings of rivers in alluvial plains. He snows that, upon hydraulic principles, the velocity of the stream must be greater on the inner bank than on the outer, and yet, as shown here, tbe wearing away takes place upon the outer bank, and the deposits are made on the inner bank. This is in part due to the centrifugal force, which tends to make the surface-water move away from the inner bank, while its place is taken by a partial upward current of the bottom water retarded much by friction. This current moves obliquely toward the inner bank, and serves to protect it from the rapid scour of the stream-line. On the outer bank, however, there is a tendency of the rapidly-moving surface-water, unimpeded by fric- t on, downward against tbe solid bank; this it tends to wear away, the worn substance is carried d iwn to the bottom, where the oblique current spoken of carries it toward tbe inner bank. Sooner or later it will reach this point, and more or less of it will find a resting-place. These principles find an application in the flow of the Missouri through its alluvial plain. It is on the outer bank of the successive curves of the river that the wear is greatest, and that tbe river has forced its way up to the older bluffs, while on the inner bank the deposits are being made, more or less, all the time, sand or mud, or both, according to tbe relative velocities of tbe different parts of the stream. As has been remarked, tbe work of the river in summer is destructive, and no additions are made at this time to the height of the alluvial banks. In spring, the case is very different, and it is at that time that the chief deposits of alluvium are made. The river is then full, the snows all over t he wide area drained by tbe Missouri are melting, rains are frequent, and a vast amount of material is brought in from the surrounding country. The amount of solid matter held iu suspension at this season is enormous. In floods, the waters rise many feet, overspreading tbe lower alluvial ground, and in subsiding and evaporating tbey deposit their load of sand and clay, sometimes covering a well- grown and fertile plain with a bed of alluvium a foot and more in thickness. This sometimes takes place for a number of successive years at the same points, as is shown by the fact that the roots of trees which must have been close to tbe surface of the ground when they commenced to grow were often seen buried beneath from four to six feet of alluvium. We could of course only observe this on the very edge of the bank, where the water had removed a part of tbe old alluvium, expos- Fig. 2. * ij^s^ ing to view the roots, and that part of the trunk which \. sf^ bad been buried. Some of these trees were quite small, f'JI A&, & "°* more ^an 3 or 4 inches in diameter, and most of them "^Ht^ F J y^^^€^- were still living; thus indicating how rapidly such depos- . "t^T I i i r rW!!rT^ 3 'i its as tuose referred to are made. The trees were mostly _ M^-l^^fM^ ^F H'l- -H&- cottonwoods and elms, species of rapid growth. That these - ■===-*==SS|,~ a — — ^--z ^r ir— — ^ deposits are made very rapidly is also shown by the thick — _i=r ^r - layers to be noticed in any section of a bank so deposited, ^ ^^ sometimes a foot or more, perfectly homogeneous. It is _^ — ^ ^g^^^^^^ ^^ ^^T^ s==i-=^ — interesting to note the great variation in the height of the ~"Z^=Z = -jSlZ perpendicular alluvial banks. From point to point, in some ^^"^ cases, it is only three or four feet; in others twenty-live feet or more. This depends obviously on the strength of the current, and the extent to which the water is backed up. It bears upon the general subject of river-terraces. Not infrequently we observed a second terrace above, or rather a long line of high cut bluffs separated from the stream by another alluvial plain (see figure 3). This is all of recent origin, and merely means that tbe river stopped washing away the bluffs here, and commenced to fill up at its foot. The energy of the stream is at all times directly proportional to the amount of the descending TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PABK. 99 water; and hence is immensely greater in spring than in summer. This energy is probably all expended in overcoming friction, aud in carrying the load of solid matter. The difference in the amount of detritus held in suspension by tho stream in early July and in late September was very marked— at the latter time tho stream seemed to have to a great extent cleared itself. This is doubtless due to the diminished volume of the water, in consequence of which the carrying power of the stream was so much diminished. A river of this character seems to act as a destructive agent rather through the weight aud moving force of its own water than by meaus of the abradiug power of tho solid matter it carries with it. A true upper terrace was not observed at any point above tho mouth of the Yellowstone. At points below, it was not uncommon to see one hugging the liguite bluffs, aud separated from .the river by a wide alluvial plain. Whether it be a true terrace or ouly a recent deposit is doubtful. Such a place was noticed a short distauce below Fort Buford, where the water must once have spread over an immense area, pointing to tho time when the Missouri was a much larger stream than it is at present. Above Carroll, the river-bottom becomes much less wide, and, although sometimes flowing through valleys more or less broad, tho stream generally passes along between and close beneath frowning banks of washed clays and sands. The undermining of the banks takes place here in the same mauuer as where they are alluvial; but, owing to the greater hardness aud thickness of the older rocks upon which the water acts, the process is much more slow. It goes ou con- stantly, however, so that at last a great mass of the rock above, perhaps a hundred feet in thick- ness, deprived of its support, slips down into the water. This has occurred at many points, and gives to the rocks, as viewed from the river, a great variety of dip, which has been considered by some observers as indicating an extensive disturbance of these beds, due to the elevation of the mountain-ranges of this section of the country. We cauuot doubt, however, that all these apparent disturbances are purely local, and have been caused by the action of ruuuiug water. FROM CARROLL TO BOX ELDER CREEK. Fort Pierre Group of the Cretaceous. The clay bluffs at Carroll rise abruptly above the alluvial bottom ou both sides of the river. They belong to what Dr. Hayden has called the Fort Pierre Group, Cretaceous No. 4. These bluffs consist of a dark-blue to purplish-black laminated clay, occasioually stained with iron, and some- times containing very thin layers of white saud. They are remarkably constant iu character from top to bottom. Dr. Hayden has stated in general that the clays of No. i are not laminated ; but this is not true of those which came under our observation. The characteristic features of this clay are (1) tho large calcareous concretions, which will be spoken of more particularly iu connection with Crooked Creek; (2) the plates aud crystals of transparent gypsum, or selenito ; aud (3) the alkaline deposits. The seleuite plates arc quite conspicuous, as they lie on tho surface of the ground, aud glisten brilliantly as the sun strikes them. In general, they are irregular crystalline fragments; but occa- sionally perfect crystals are found of the form common in the clay of Poland, Ohio. The surface of all these fragments is roughened aud etched by the solvent action of tho water which has flowed over them. These etchiugs are most distinct on the cliuopiuacoid, aud are similar to those described by Baumhauer as having been produced artificially by the action of caustic potash. The 100 EECONNAISSANCE FROM CABBOLL, MONTANA, selenite plates are found most abundantly near the level of the river, having been washed together here, but they occur also more or less frequently on the plains, twenty-five miles from the river, at a level nearly 1,000 feet above. The alkaline deposits seem to be particularly abundant iu some layers, exuding from the bluffs along the river iu long white lines. Considerable deposits of it are seen at various points on the banks of the river, and all the little dry creek-bottoms leading into the Missouri are wbite, as if frosted with it. The following is an analysis of a particularly-pure specimen of the alkali collected near Carroll. For this analysis we are indebted to Mr. Fred. P. Dewey, of the Sheffield Scientific School of New Haven, and we would here express our acknowledgments to him: I. II. Mean. MgO 11.69 11.91 11.80 Na*0 15r81 16.20 16.00 CaO 0.53 0.68 0.60 Li = 0.88 0.88 0.88 SO] 44.09 44.12 44.10 CI trace trace trace H ; 23.09 23.00 23.05 Insoluble.. 3.29 3.27 3.28 99. 38 100. 06 99. 71 As will be seen from this analysis, the alkali consists essentially of the sulphates of sodium aud magnesium ; in fact, the amount of sulphuric acid given is almost exactly what is required to unite with the several bases. The presence of the lithia is also to be noticed. This alkali is a constant attendant of this member of the Cretaceous, wherever observed in the West, and is one of the causes of its barren character. The water of the Missouri is so entirely derived from pure mountain-sources — even the large rivers, as the Musselshell, which flow through the alkaline prairie, being nearly dry at their outlets — that it is little affected by the salt which is brought into it, though the white deposits on the alluvial banks show that the quantity is not small. These Cretaceous clays have a laminated shaly structure wherever exposed: they weather down so readily, however, that often only the rounded beds of clay are seen. These are so soft and yielding, that the foot sinks deeply into them, and they have much the feeling of a bed of ashes. Iu the neighborhood of Carroll, there is more or less of a scanty vegetation ; but farther down the river, perhaps one hundred and fifty miles, there seems to be no vegetation whatever, aud the appearance of these black clay-beds is desolate in the extreme. The height of the Cretaceous bluffs above the river is quite variable as viewed from the water ; but, when we examine the total elevation attained in passing back from the river, we find that it is remarkably constant. The Helena road at Carroll rises in two or three very steep pitches the greater part of its final ascent, aud, within two or three miles of where the road leaves the valley the high plateau is reached, which is kept, with little change of level, beyond Crooked Creek. The height here, as given by an aneroid, is 605 feet. On the other side of the river, the height of the corresponding plateau is GS0 feet ; though iu this case the fiual elevation was fouud a little farther from the river, the rise of the plain being more gradual after the first steep asceut had been made. The appearance of the surrounding country, as viewed from the top of the bluffs back of Carroll, is very forbidding. The whole landscape is of a somber, gray tint; the color of the soil and the sagebrush sparingly relieved by the dark green of the stunted pines that grow here aud there on the summits of the bluffs and along the little ravines. There is little vegetation, except the Artemisia, and, altogether, the region seems incapable of affording sustenance to man or beast. Notwithstanding its uninviting appearance, the neighboring country abounds iu game. This region has been, and still is, though to a less extent than formerly, the favorite feeding-ground of a por- tion of the great northern herd of buffaloes: autelope are numerous on the plains, and mule-deer and elk are found iu the pine timbered ravines. Farther back from the river, in the hill-country, the big-horn, or mouutaiu-sheep, and the grizzly bear occur, though nowhere numerous. On both sides of the Missouri, the high bluffs are cut into numberless ravines, which divide TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 101 and subdivide again to a wonderful extent, thus carrying the surface-drainage back into the river. These ravines are often quite well wooded, and some of them contain a little strongly alkaline water. As has been remarked, the height of the plateau varies but little as we proceed away from the river, though we soon pass over the divide which separates the immediate drainage of the Missouri from that of Crooked (Jreek, a tributary of the Musselshell River. Little Crooked Creek, thirteen miles from Carroll, retains water in holes until midsummer, when it generally dries up entirely. Five miles beyond, a branch of Crooked Creek also affords a little poor water in the early summer ; but, late in the season, the only water on the route is found in pools in the bed of Crooked Creek, and this is decidedly unpalatable. All these creeks, with their many dry branches, certainly contain swiftly-running water in the early season, wheu the spring- rains unite with the melting snows to swell the streams. This is plainly shown by the high, cut banks and the large accumulations of drift pebbles in the turns in the creek-beds. The surface of the prairie from Carroll to Crooked Creek (twenty-one miles) and beyond, though this point is only about fifteen miles from the river in a direct line, is scattered with drift deposits. These are of two kinds: (1) large, mostly angular, blocks of syenite and other horn- bleudic rocks, with occasionally some semi-crystalline limestone; and (2) small, smoothly-rounded pebbles, consisting to 90 per cent, of a brown quartzite or jasper. Some fragments of fossil wood may here and there be found, and a largo variety of pebbles of various kinds of rocks in small quantities. This drift is entirely superficial, no proper deposits having been observed at any point. The lithological character of the drift will be described more in detail hereafter, when it will be connected with observations made north of the Missouri River (p. 135). At Carroll, in the lower levels of the Cretaceous No. 1, the only fossils observed were Baculites ovatus, Say, and a large Inoceramus. At Little Crooked Creek, where we made our first camp (July 13), we had more opportunity for search, and here, and farther on, at Crooked Creek, we found : 1. Lucina ventricosa, M. & II. 2. Lucina occidentalis, Morton. 3. Mactra, sp.f. 4. Inoceramus tenuilineatus, II. & M. 5. Anchura, sp. (specific features not shown). G. Ammonites If alii, M. & U. 7. Scaphites nodosus, Owen. 8. Baculites ovatus, Say. Inoceramus tenuilineatus, II. & M., Ammonites Halli, M. & H., and Baculites ovatus, Say, were extremely abundant at these localities, and the specimens secured comprise individuals of all ages. These fossils, as far as our observations go, are found only in the concretions previously men- tioned in connection with these beds. These concretions occur in great numbers from the level of the river to the highest point above it where these clays were seen. Those which contain fossils seem to be much more abundant in the upper layers than in those nearer the water's level. Fossils were occasionally found in concretions from the lower ravines ; but such concretions were not seen in place. They were generally found imbedded in the loose, washed clays of the ravine, and had the appearance of having been carried down from some point above.^ The concretions are quite compact wheu found in place in the cut bauk, though they yield readily to a blow of the hammer. Whenever exposed for any length of time, however, to atmospheric influences, they separate into hundreds of angular fragments ; and here and there over the prairie may be seen the little piles of these blocks, a conspicuous feature among the low cactus-plants. The concretions are generally a foot or two in diameter, though sometimes much larger, and are extensively cracked; the seams having been filled with crystallized calcite aud sometimes with gypsum. One fine specimen of an Ammonite was found, the interior of which was lined with exceed- ingly delicate crystals of the selenite. The concretions, as a rule, aro not distributed at random through the clays, but lie in layers, sometimes closely contiguous, so as to form an almost uninter- rupted stratum. The large majority are destitute of fossil remains; but occasionally they are met with, containing large numbers of the shells, a considerable number forming the nucleus of a single 102 llECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, concretion. It is to be noticed that these fossils, as a rule, are not clustered together in the center of the concretion, but lie in a single layer; and it is not uncommon to see this layer continued iu line from one concretion to the others lying immediately adjoining it. This fact indicates the relation iu point of time between the deposit of the shells and the formation of the concretions. The most common fossil in this association, aud one \vhich is met with almost everywhere ou the prairie, is the Baculites ovatus, Say. These remains are often called "fossil fish", "fossil ferns", &c, by the white inhabitants of that section of the Territory ; and, as they are so well known and so often spoken of, it may not be amiss to make a remark iu regard to them for the benefit of the unscientific. They are not fish-skeletons, but are simply the shell of an animal somewhat allied to the present Nautilus, but having the shell straight aud tapering instead of curved iu a spiral. The delicate lines on the shell show the divisional walls, or septa, of the successive cham- bers iu the shell. During a delay of a day at Crooked Greek, we were enabled to follow along the dry bed of the stream for several miles. This bed is filled with alluvial deposits of the black clay deposited by the stream, and through which it has agaiu washed out its path, leaving steep walls three feet or more in height. The banks on either side show evidence of having been washed over, looking white, aud a little sandy, aud with the drift-pebbles collected iu large numbers. Here and there the Cretaceous clays are exposed iu high bluffs ou either side of the creek-valley. These bluffs have sometimes a height of 50 to 75 feet above the stream-bed. The clays are not to be dis- tinguished from those forming the immediate banks of the Missouri. They are blue-black or slate-colored, shaly, the layers beiug very distinct and everywhere characterized by the concretions. The layers of the clay are pretty uniformly horizontal, though an occa- sional slight dip is to be observed. At one point, we noticed a very low syucliual fold followed by a fault; the strata being displaced some 15 or 20 feet. This and other similar disturbances observed in this neighborhood we decided were undoubtedly local, being due to slips in the loosely-laminated clays, through the influence of run- ning waters. Many similar disturbances were observed along the river which were obviously due to a similar cause (see p. 125). From Crooked Creek, the road runs on nearly southwest, rising slightly till a point some few miles from Box Elder Creek is reached, wheu there is a more suddeu rise of 50 feet up to a plateau, which ou top, is very level, aud the northern edge of which can be dis- tinctly seeu extending some distance iu both directions. The following cut (fig. 4) gives au ideal section* from Cone Butte to the Missouri along the line of the road, as obtained from measure- ments made by an aneroid. It is to be observed that the line ruus obliquely, making tho distance somewhat farther than in a direct line, as will bo seen by reference to the map. The highest point at which the undisturbed Fort Pierre Group was observed was 1,0G0 feet above the river; and deposits of this age were seeu at yarious points along the llelena road until Camp Lewis was reached. The last point at which they were noticed was near the crossing of Warm Spring Creek, south of the Moccasin Mountains. 'The vertical distances are increased niuo times to admit of beiug brought within the limits of the page. The horizontal scale is (as ou tho map) G miles to the iuch ; tho vertical scale is J mile (3,520 feet) to the inch. iu: Si TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAKK. 103 The rise of the land continues until we reach Box Elder Valley, where the high plateau is seen extending east and west, and here a descent of 80 feet is made to the level of the stream. Box Elder Creek takes its rise in the Judith Mountains, and, after a northerly course of about seven miles, turns easterly and then southeasterly, finally reaching the Musselshell Eiver. At the stage-station, where we camped for several days, its course is nearly east and west. It is a running- stream and furnishes fair water. Our delay at this point gave us an opportunity to explore to some extent the Judith Mountains. In the neighborhood of Box Elder, we pass from the Fort Pierre clays, Cretaceous No. 4 of Ilayden, to the sandstones of the Fox Hills Group, or Cretaceous No. 5, overlying them. At a locality lying nearly south of Box Elder station and distant from it about a mile, we observed a ledge of sandstone containing some tolerably-preserved shells. The rock is a yellow ferruginous sandstone in rather thin beds, but quite firm. Occasional calcareous layers contain fossils similar to those in the sandstone, but much bettor preserved. The thickness of this yellow fossil-bearing sandstone is small ; and beneath it is a friable white sandstoue, easily rubbed into powder with the fingers. The dip of the exposed strata is slight, toward the northeast. The fossils found at this locality are as follows : 1. Sanguinolaria oblata, Whitf. (n. sp.). 2. Liopistha (Cymella) undulata, M. & H. 3. Tellina isomma, Meek. 4. Tellina scitula, M. & H. 5. Mactra warreniana, M. & II. (i. Mactra maia, Whitf. (n. sp.). 7. Tapes montanensis, Whitf. (n. sp.). 8. Ostrea congesta, Con.???. !). Lunatia concinna, II. & M. 10. Inoccramus, sp. 11. Fastis Qalpiniaiius,M. & H. Sandstones of a similar character to that mentioned may be seen at a variety of points where the excavation of the deep coulees has laid bare the rock beneath. One striking locality was visited some four miles east of the station, where, on the east bank of a deeply-cut coulee, the sandstoue is exposed at a height of 200 feet above the creek-bottom. The section was as follows : Two feet of a white sandstone, in thin layers ; Thirty feet of a white, soft, thickly-laminated sandstone, underlaid by an uncertain thickness of rusty-yellow sand-rock. No fossils were fouud here, though they were searched for with care. JUDITH MOUNTAINS. Our examination of the Judith Mountains was hasty and incomplete, owing to lack of time at this point; and our movements were still further embarrassed by the necessity of taking some pre- cautions against the hostile Sioux, known to be in the vicinity at the time. The following cut (lig. 5) will give some idea of the extent and bearings of the Judith Mountains, 1 ;K i04 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, although it makes no pretensions to topographical accuracy. The few bearings which were takeri from Cone Butte are indicated. It is to be noticed that these mountains do not lie north aud south on the east bank of the Judith River, where they are generally represented on the maps of this region. Ou the contrary, their trend is essentially east and west, so that the axis of the range lies almost at right angles with the course of the river. The general appearance of the range as viewed from a point to the northeast is shown in figure G. Black Bulte. ' -""' ijxuc. In tbe neighborhood of Box Elder, we pass, as has been stated, from the Fort Pierre clays to the sandstones of the Fox Hills Group overlying them. The rocks of this group extend widely east and west from this point, and from the hills which slope up to the foot of the Judith Mountains. Near Box Elder station, the sandstone shows itself nearly on the level of the stream at a point hardly a mile distant from it to the south. This is the locality where the fossils above mentioned were found. From this point, in approaching the hills, we took a course nearly south up a coulee, then dry, but which had been deeply excavated by running water, and which in the spring is no doubt a considerable tributary of Box Elder Creek. The eastern bank of this coulee is quite high above the bed, perhaps 200 feet, and all the way has a very uniform slope up to the mountains. On the west side the terrace is quite low, but has also the same gradual slope upward; the surface being for the most part remarkably level. The slope is about 50 feet to the mile. The sandstone of No. 5 is seen at a number of points, both in the bed of the cou!6e and above in the high eastern bank just referred to. The slope upward on the east continues until within a mile or so of Cone Butte, where the sandstone strata are more upturned and the surface of the hill is more broken. Close to Cone Butte, at its foot (at c, fig. 5), we observed the sandstone, elevated 750 to 800 feet above Box Elder. It was here whitish, compact, weathering out into peculiar forms, with irregu- lar layers of ferruginous sand ; dip, 10°; strike north 80° west. The thickness here, as elsewhere, is difficult to estimate, because of the insufficient exposure. It must be two or three hundred feet, or perhaps more. It may be mentioned here that the hills and terraces are so much covered with grass and soil that exposures of rock are rare. Below this point (at b, see map) is an exposure of blue laminated clays, with abundant concretions, probably the Fort Pierre Group again, though here 600 feet above the highest exposure observed below, and 400 feet above the sandstone identified as No. 5 (a, on map). The elevation is due to the upturn- ing of the mountains, involving both members of the Cretaceous alike. From here we made the ascent of Cone Butte. The immediate foot-hills, aud indeed those at some distance from the peak, are made up of the talus from the mountain as far as the surface- exposure goes. Loose blocks of the trachyte, which forms the mass of the mountain, have been spread over the surrounding country to a remarkable extent, aud the smaller fragments were found abundantly within a mile or two of Crooked Creek ; that is, having crossed Box Elder Yalley. Cone Butte is, as has been intimated, a trachytic hill, and according to the readings of our aneroid it is 2,200 feet above Box Elder, and 3,400 above the Missouri River. This is about the average height of what are called the Judith Mountains, though there are several points which are probably a little higher. The summit of Cone Butte commands an extensive view over the prairies to the north. The Little Rocky Mountains and the Bear's Paw Mountains, though far in the distance, are the most conspicuous points to be noticed. Its commanding position is well appreciated by the Indians who use it as a lookout, for which it is most conveniently situated. A shelter which we found on the summit, formed of large fiat blocks of trachyte resting upon the spreading branches of a stunted pine-tree, had doubtless been used as a resting-place by many an Indian scout. Cone Butte is itself a conspicuous object from all the surrounding country, even as far north as the Little Rocky Mountains ; its perfectly conical shape being very striking from any point on the Carroll road. Viewed from the west, the sides of tho cone aro broken, and not so symmetrical as shown in figure G. Tho slopes are covered with loose blocks of trachyte, aud at some points are TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAKE 105 precipitous. The angle of the cone is about 40° or '41°; indeed, it is so steep, and the loose blocks of trachyte furnish so insecure a foot-hold, that, were it not for the trails made by the mountain- sheep ascending and descending, it would be no easy task to climb it from the west side. The miueralogical character of this trachyte deserves to be described a little in detail, as it may be taken as a type of the variety which occurs most widely in these mountains. It is in gen- eral of uniform texture, hard and firm, though occasionally showing minute cavities containing quartz crystals as a secondary product. It breaks on weathering into the large thin slabs which cover the sides of Cone Butte. The main constituent of the rock is a triclinic feldspar, as revealed by a thin section under the microscope, though occasional crystals of orthoclase of greater size may be observed. Hornblende follows next in order, the crystals being very distinct ; and, further than this, magnetite plays an important rdle— this is distributed more generally than is common in similar rocks, and is seen by the microscope as extremely minute grains, whose metallic character is revealed only in reflected light. These particles of magnetite have suffered alteration to a considerable extent, and the feldspar is often stained red and yellow in a ring about them by the oxidized iron. It is to this alteration that the peculiar red color of the talus on the sides of the hills, as seen from a distance, is undoubtedly due. A critical examination shows that a little quartz is also present; but, as it was often otherwise noted in minute cavities, it may be questioned whether it is not merely a secondary product. The descent from Cone Butte was made by way of the deep ravine which separates it from the trachytic hills to the south. The white trachyte is carried down nearly to the gap, where (see fig. 7) we passed a transverse dike, east and west in direction, of a hard green trachyte, with a cubical fracture breaking into large angular blocks, in striking contrast with the loose slabs of the other trachyte which cover the slopes of Cone Butte. This is probably a later dike, subsequent to the formation of the other hills. This trachyte, as well as that of Cone Butte, was found in frag- ments abundantly over the prairie, even to a distance of fifteen miles from the mountains. It is characterized by large crystals of a glassy orthoclase, which give it a porphyritic structure. Under the microscope, these crystals are found to be more or less clouded, in consequence of incipient alteration : this is also shown by the indistinct colors obtained in polarized light. Accompanying the large crystals of orthoclase are smaller thin-bladed crystals in large numbers. The other essen- tial constituent is the hornblende, which is seen in simple distinct prisms : it has a deep-green color, and is strongly dichroic. No quartz was observed. The most interesting feature of the rock A 1 rig. 7. is the green base, which, under a low magnifying power, seems to be without structure, but, when magnified highly, is resolved into countless minute, acicular crystals, jumbled together in a con- 14 w 106 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, fused mass. Tliey show very little color in polarized light. They may be zeolitic ; but a chemical analysis, which the circumstances do not now admit of, would be required to settle the point. In the ravine spoken of, 355 feet below the summit of Cone Butte, we were surprised to find a series of slates and sandstones. The cut (Fig. 7) will give some idea of the relations of the rocks, it being a sketch taken from a point below to the west. The total width of the gap is about 70 yards ; the trachyte rising abruptly on both sides. The trachyte of the hill to the south is quite similar to that of Cone Butte. The section in the gap is as follows : Coarse ferruginous sandstone, vertical 3 feet. Fine blue shale, vertical 20 feet- Slate, sometimes shaly, sometimes a good slate, and very sandy, in layers ; color whitish and yellowish ; dip 70° south ISO to 200 feet. The strike of these slates is east and west. The age of these rocks is uncertain, as the only fossils found in them were some cycloidal fish- scales, with occasional impressions of fish-vertebras and spines, which were quite numerous in some layers in the slate. It is hardly to be doubted, however, that they are Cretaceous ; and the position of some rocks, also containing fish-scales and probably identical with these, observed at another point, as noted below, suggests that they are probably Upper Cretaceous, perhaps No. 5. The present position of these slates is very remarkable : they lie far above (about 600 feet) the rocks visible in the hills below, and doubtless owe their elevation to the eruption of the trachyte, having been squeezed up between the two great masses of igneous rock. They show little trace of the influence of heat upon them. The hills to the south and east, forming the eastern extremity of the Judith Mountains, are, as far as observed, trachyte. Black Butte, or Buffalo Heart Mountain, was not visited ; but its posi- tion and similar appearance show that it is also eruptive, probably exclusively so. The sand- stones dip away from it even more distinctly than from Cone Butte. It may be remarked here that the trachytic hills are very distinctly marked in appearance, and may be recognized with certainty even at a considerable distance. Their sides are covered with the loose blocks of the rock, and have a distinct reddish color, due to the oxidation of the iron which exists in considerable quantities in the trachyte (see description), which is quite conspicuous and characteristic. West of Cone Butte (see e, fig. 5), there is a break in the hills, and a low pass called "Ross's Cut-off" gives passage to frequent Indian parties. It is free from timber, and of gradual slope, so that upon one occasion wagons were brought through without serious trouble. It is from this low pass that Box Elder takes its rise. In this gap, the observations made were unimportant; the rocks being mostly covered up with soil and grass. It was interesting, however, to note that the even, gradual slope of the terrace before mentioned extends quite into the pass, with the same character well preserved. At e, (Fig. 5,) just on the edge of the hills which rise on the west side of the gap, a series of black shales were ob- served, vertical, and with a strike nearly north and south. These hills at g and to the south are all trachyte. We crossed them at one point, dragging our horses over the loose talus, much to their and our own discomfort, and found the height a little less than that of Cone Butte. On their west- ern side, the trachyte shows itself in a series of columns, which are very regular and well formed ■ much more so than is common in this rock. This trachyte differs somewhat from the others described in the larger proportion of hornblende present. As before, the orthoclase appears in distinct crystals of large size, and the triclinic feldspar in thiu-bladed fragments. The whole has a pasty base. A little valley, in which rises a small stream of cool water, lies just to the west, and on the other side is a high limestone hill (at h), the only exposure of the older sedimentary rocks which we met with in this part of the hills. This limestone rises in a series of sharp ridges, very distinct, and seen from a distance as a number of white lines running up the sides of the hills. It dips 50° northeast: the strike beiug northwest. The upper layers are white, semi-crystalline, and very profuse in flinty fragments. These are exposed by the weathering, and, on the surface, the rock has quite a coralline aspect. Lower layers are firmer, blue, and also cherty, though not to the same extent as those above. A very careful search showed that fossils were very rare, though a few were found, enough to deter- TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 107 mine the age of the rock to bo Carboniferous. The following is a list of the fossils obtained at this point : 1. Crinoidal remains too indistinct to be identified. 2. Terebratula or Gryptonella. 3. Spirifera (Martinia) lineata, Martin. 4. Spirifera centronata, Winch. 5. Orthoceras ? f ?, possibly filling of outer chamber. Spirifera centronata, Winch., was the most abundant and characteristic form noticed here. The thickness of these limestone beds must be very considerable ; at least 300 or 400 feet were seen on this side of the hill, but as we were unable to foliow them farther, we cannot venture to estimate their whole extent. This limestone is intersected at one point by a ridge of hard trachyte. On the other side of the little creek valley, the limestone also appears, containing hero only a few imperfect crinoidal stems. Here it is apparently overlaid by a sandstone which has all the appearance of dipping under the hill, or, in other words, is overlaid by the trachyte. The outlying hill,/, is made up of sandstone, or a sandy slate ; its summit is 1,200 feet above Box Elder, and hence a thousand feet lower than the adjoining trachytic hill. The observed thickness of this slate is 200 feet ; dip 10° a little east of north, and strike nearly east and west. It can hardly be conformable to the limestone described ; but the eruption of the trachyte, which doubtless accompanied the elevation of the mountains, has very much complicated the relations of the beds.. This slate contained large numbers of poorly-preserved fish-scales, which would seem to show its probable identity with the elevated slates in the ravine behind Cone Butte. Further than this, its position seems to suggest that it may be nearly parallel with the sandstones near Cone Butte, which are, as has been stated, Upper Cretaceous. No trace was seen at this point of any rocks between the Cretaceous and the Carboniferous limestone. FKCCU BOX ELDER TO CAMP LEWIS. The road from Box Elde.: to Camp Lewis follows along the foot of the mountains, but at such a distance from them that very few observations could be made. The character of the country is much better than that nearer the Missouri, but cannot be very highly praised. The Judith Mount- ains give rise to several running streams, which occupy wide valleys, and the region seems well adapted for stock raising. Near Armell's Creek, a mile to the north of the road-crossing, gray clays are conspicuous, forming high bluffs with perpendicular faces, quite different from anything seen near Crooked Creek. This exposure was visited later, on the way to the mouth of the Judith Eiver, but yielded no fossils, and its age is therefore uncertain. It is probably, however, near the top of the Cretaceous. Our road approached quite near the mountains at Bald Butte (see m on map), and here, and at several points beyond, we observed a considerable thickness of a soft white sandstone, fine-grained and even-textured, but without fossils. It is in very thick beds, and weathers out in vertical walls, taking fantastic shapes, which are like those of the "Quader Saudstein" of the Saxon Switzer- land. This is undoubtedly Upper Cretaceous. From this point, the road bears away from the hills again, crossing the divide between the Musselshell and Judith Bivers, and passing bstweeu the Judith and Moccasin Mountains. As has been before remarked, the dark clays of the Fort Pierre Group are seen again south of the Moccasin Mountains and just before reaching Warm Spring Creek. At this point, there was a considerable exposure of these beds, and, although no fossils were collected here, the characteristic features of the deposit were unmistakable. Farther on, a cut bank on the creek gave the following section : Yellow clays, somewhat sandy 20 feet. Hard gray shaly clays seen 20 feet. These beds had a very slight dip a little east of north. The Moccasin Mountains we were unable to visit ; but their appearance, as viewed from vari- ous points on the road, and again from the northeast, indicated that, like the Judith Mountains, they are largely trachytic. Camp Lewis is situated on Trout Creek, or Big Spring Branch, as it is sometimes called, which 108 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, is the largest branch of the Judith River. This is a wide stream of clear, very cold, water, which takes its rise in a spring about five miles from where the camp is situated. The immediate valley of the stream is covered with excellent grass, and when the country becomes safe from the incur- sions of hostile Indians— far from being the case at present— it must prove of high value for settlement. About Camp Lewis there are considerable deposits of red clay. This is the case on both sides of the stream, but most conspicuously on the east bank, where the bluffs for a considerable dis- tance are of a deep-red color. It is rare to find any exposures of the beds which give rise to these red slopes. In general, they are so washed down that only the red surface-deposits are seen. In some ravines, however, on the east bank of Trout Creek, we found the hardened red clays in place. No fossils could be discovered, though they were searched for with care. These beds seemed to be somewhat irregular and of rather local character. In the place where opportunities for observa- tion were most favorable, we found 10 feet of red laminated clay, underlaid by a gray shale and overlaid by a sandy slate of a brown color. A little farther north, other layers of sandstone were observed, and beneath these some very thick bedded sandstone deposits ; the red clays running out eutirely. There was nothing to settle positively the age of these deposits. Except in color, they do not resemble the "red beds" of the West, generally referred to the Triassic; and as similar deposits were seen on the slopes of the Snow Mountains, twenty-five miles distant, overlying sandstones containing Cretaceous fossils (the same was true elsewhere), as noted later, it is more than probable that they are all Cretaceous in this vicinity. From this point, on our return journey, we made a detour and crossed the west end of the Judith Mountains ; and, as we have just stated our observations in the neighborhood of Cone Butte, it may be interesting to add the others in this place. Passing on from the red beds just mentioned, we crossed a low divide, and came down into the wide valley of a branch of Trout Creek, passing over some more red clays at a little higher level than those seen before. From here, our course was about north; our objective point being some white limestone bluffs conspicuous on the summit of the range. The foot-hills first passed over consisted, as indicated by one or two rock-exposures, of a brown, firm sandstone, in which no fossils were found. It had a dip of 20° away from the hills. These hills, in both directions, are- covered with timber and grass, and the rock is rarely seen on the surface. The limestone bluff's (I, fig. 5) were reached without much clue to the structure of the inter- vening country having been gained. This limestone stands up in a series of high buttresses, which, with their vertical fronts, are quite conspicuous objects. They show no evidence of stratification or structure. The rock contains occasionally masses of flint, though they are not so conspicu. ously cherty as those seen near Cone Butte. Some few fossils show that the rock is of Carboniferous age. The following is a list of those obtained : 1. Zaphrentis centralis, Ev. & Shum. 2. Syringapora mult-attenuata, McChes. 3. Stictopora, sp. 4. Spirifera centronata, Winch. On the hill to the west of this, a broad band of stratified limestone is exposed, in which some similar fossils were found. This same band apparently appears again on the north side of the hill, but here with a changed dip, northwest instead of southwest, pointing to a fold over at this point. We crossed the higher ridge here, from which we could see off to the east, noting, as before, that the hills to the north are mostly trachyte, while those behind them to the south are as uni- formly limestone. Near the source of Deer Creek, we descended into a broad, green meadow, quite surrounded by the hills. At one point, a patch of bright-red soil suggested a return to the red clays before seen. Crossing over by Bald Butte, a hill of trachyte, we reached the road again. The excursion was not altogether a satisfactory one, though showing the presence of the limestone at this point, but, as au investigation into the further structure of the hills, it was not successful. The difficulty lies in the fact that the hills are principally of igneous origin, and the thrusting in of the trachyte between the sedimentary rocks has destroyed the regular succession in the strata TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAEK. 109 which would otherwise exist. Further than this, while the trachytic hills are mostly bare and rocky, the other hills are, with the exception of the occasional sharp ridges of limestone, covered with grass and timber, so that little can be seen by one who must hurry on and make few stops. Probably two-thirds of the area of the hills is covered with trachyte, of which that found at Cone Butte may be taken as the type. CAMP LEWIS TO THE JUDITH GAP. From Camp Lewis, the road passes on thirty miles to the Judith Gap, crossing a portion of the country which has some promise of becoming valuable in time. Quite a number of running streams pass through it, of which Cottonwood Creek, Little Trout Creek, and Buffalo Creek are the most important. The latter becomes dry late in the season. Little Trout Creek is famous for the num- ber and beauty of the trout which it contains. In the immediate vicinity of the streams, the grass is excellent; but, on the higher prairie, it is rather thin. The streams flow fresh and cold from the neighboring Snow Mountains, and could doubtless be used extensively in irrigation. This Judith Basin is a region that has been highly spoken of, and it will no doubt in time furnish farms for hundreds of settlers. Very little opportunity for geological work is afforded over this portion of the route ; for the prairie is much of it almost level, sloping away to the northwest to the Judith Biver, and giving no exposures of the underlying rocks. Considerable surface drift is found here, which is entirely local, consisting, for the most part, of pebbles and masses of a blue limestone, some of them con- taining Carboniferous fossils. The source of this limestone is to be found in the Snow Mountains, whcih rise ten or twelve miles to the east, and from which it has been very abundantly carried off. A short distance before reaching Boss's Fork, a bluff was examiued, of a black shale, containing many reddish iron concretions, but no fossils ; and a little farther on, to the left of the road, were seen some washed exposures of light-gray shales, also without fossils. Not far beyond, the soil becomes red again ; and, for a distance of several miles up to the Judith Gap, the presence of beds of red clay is indicated. Associated with them was a limestone, impure and knotty, with many veins of calcite. These red-clay beds appear also at the foot of the Snow Mountains, and, as has been said, also at the foot-slopes of the western end of the Judith Mountains. Their thickness seems to be small. They appear to belong to the Cretaceous, which doubtless extends under the grassy prairie from Camp Lewis to the Judith Gap. SNOW MOUNTAINS. From Buffalo Creek, ten miles before reaching the Judith Gap (that is, north of it), we made a short detour, to examine the west end of the Snow Mountains. This range extends in an approxi- mately east and west direction for a distance of some twenty miles. It is low, like all the other minor ranges. The average height can hardly be more than 2,000 feet above the surrounding prairie. Buffalo Creek takes its rise in the north side of the west end of the range. Following up the stream for a mile and a half from where the road crosses it, we found some outcrops of sand- stone, with indistinct vegetable remains, undoubtedly Upper Cretaceous. A little farther this on the north side— on the hill-tops, there was a gray sandstone, and below it, on the hill-side, a sand- stone of a deep yellow color. Both of these broke into irregular, wavy fragments. Dip 10° west- erly ; strike north 20° east. These, which are in thickness perhaps GO feet, are probably Upper Cretaceous. On the opposite (south) side of the stream appears a thinly-laminated sandstone, with a south- westerly dip of 10°, but a strike north 30° west. Beneath this followed the slopes of red soil, pointing to the presence of thin beds of clay beneath, like those at Camp Lewis. Following and underlying this was a firm, thick sandstone, breaking into massive slabs, which covered the top and sides of the hill, giving it much the appearance of having been paved ; the strike was as before. Beyond, also south of the creek, a hard, gritty sandstone was noticed, with layers containing a large number of poorly-preserved shells. These were not specifically recognizable, but have been iden- tified as Cretaceous by Mr. Whitfield. Beneath this was what seemed to be a second deposit of the red-clay beds. These last are visible, though not so distinctly, on the opposite side of the creek, HO EECONNAISSANCE FROM CAEEOLL, MONTANA, where they are followed by about 5 feet of a firm limestone, and tbat by a considerable thickness of green and black shales, which last may be traced for a short distance on both sides of the stream. It is to be noticed that the strike and hence the dip of similar layers on both sides of the stream is quite different ; and, though further study is needed to make out all the facts, we think it can hardly be doubted that at this western end of the mountains there is a distinct fold ; the axis probably running a little north of west. Continuing up to the source of the stream, we found the limestone here with a very slight dip to the northwest ; strike northeast. The final point which we reached was a little canon, with high and bold limestone walls, from which we obtained a few not very perfect Carboniferous fossils, viz|: 1. Zaplirentis centralis (?), Ev. & Shum. 2. Streptorhynchus Keokuk, H. 3. Spirifera centronata, Winch. i. Stictopora, sp. To reach these Carboniferous rocks, we had doubtless passed over in succession the Cretaceous rocks, having perhaps a thickness of 900 feet, and also the Jurassic, if it exists here. We found no fossils belonging to this age, and doubt the existence of any considerable thickness of Jurassic beds. The limestone with the green and black shales noted above may possibly belong here. Leaving the ridge, we turned at right angles to it ; that is, nearly north. Here we passed over, first the limestone dipping northwest, then successive beds of sandstone with beds of red clay inter- stratified. Near the foot of the hill, a reversal of the dip occurs in the sandstones, pointing to a minor fold parallel to the general course of the range. No older rocks than the Carboniferous 1: stone were observed ; and from the numerous limestone pebbles containing Carboniferous fossils ; picked up at different points along the sides of the mountains, it is safe to conclude that the range, as a whole, is made up of Carboniferous limestone ; the younger rocks lying on its outer slopes. No evidence of any older rocks than the Carboniferous was noted ; certainly not of any crystalline rocks. The trachyte, so common in the neighboring Judith Mountains, seems to be almost or entirely absent. LITTLE BELT MOUNTAINS. The Judith Gap is the divide between the Judith and the Musselshell Eivers. At this point the Little Belt Mountains and the Snow Mountains approach one another quite closely. The former are quite an extended and somewhat irregular range, reaching for a long distance north and west. Of its general geology, we can say little, as we can speak only of a few widely-separated points where we were able to visit it. One of these points was the extremity of the range at the Judith Gap. Near the Gap, we have already spoken of finding, on the north side, beds of red clay, which are associated with a little limestone, and nearer the hills with an underlying sandstone. Crossing the hills, which form the extreme eastern end of the range, perhaps a mile west of the Gap, we found a bed of yellow sandstone, which contained Ostrea congesta, Con.; then, some distance up the slope, a limestone containing corals, and dipping in a northerly direction; then some thin layers of limestone containing Productus. The fossils" found here were as follows; the identification by Mr. Whitfield: 1. Ostrea congesta, Con. 2. Cyathophylloid coral. 3. Canipnphyllum torquium, Owen '? *J . 4. Spirifera centronata, Winch. 5. Spirifera, sp. May possibly be Spiriferina KentuoTcensis. 6. Productus, sp. Eesembles P. Wortheni, II.; but perhaps more nearly related to J*, multi- striata, Meek. 7. Schizodus, sp. Nearly or quite S. Bossicus, (DeVern.,) M. & W. Here were seen 20 feet of green and black shales, dipping 50° northeast. From here, as we go up and across the hills, the strike gradually changes, and with it the dip, so that on the south side of the hill we have strain dipping southeast instead of northeast. The succession observed here is from below up : Limestone, dip 05° south, strike north 70° east 2 feet. Eed clays, with purple slates underlying it 10 feet. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. Ill These beds bend around some 50°, so that in a vertical section they describe a quarter circle. The upper and central part of the hill consists of limestone, overlaid by a considerable thick- ness of slates and sandstones, dipping mostly east-southeast. The hill alluded to forms the extremity of this portion of the Little Belt Mountains. Farther along to the west, in the main range, is a limestone which has every appearance of dipping under all the rocks thus far men- tioned ; it probably corresponds to the firm limestone which forms the lower portion of the Carbon- iferous as developed in this region. The structure of this hill, thus imperfectly made out (a hasty run across it while the party was going round being all that circumstances admitted of), may be better understood upon the statement that it is an anticlinal fold ; the axis pointing about north 30o west, and somewhat elevated in this direction. The south side of the fold is apparently the steeper. JUDITH GAP TO THE MUSSELSHELL CANON. From the Judith Gap to the Musselshell Canon, a distance of rather more than forty miles, the underlying rock belongs for the most part to the Upper Cretaceous ; the only fossils found hav- ing been referred by Mr. Whitfield, as stated below, to No. 5. This district is remarkable, perhaps more so than any other seen by us, for the deep and wide valleys which have been cut through the nearly horizontal rocks, and which lead away from the neighboring range, the Little Belt Mount- ains. There are now no streams running from the mountains, with the exception of Haymaker's Creek near the Forks of the Musselshell, and yet the otherwise remarkably level prairie is broken by a number of striking ravines or valleys. These are all alike in that they show no evidence of any important action by recent running water, but, on the contrary, point to agencies which must have done their work in glacial times. The beds of these valleys, and also, though to a less extent, the prairie above them, are strewn with pebbles and masses of limestone, whose source is in the mountains, only a few miles distant. Three very conspicuous valleys, one of them a mile wide, with steep banks more than one hundred feet in height, are crossed before going twelve miles from the gap. Hopley's Hole is by far the most remarkable of these. A section is given in the following cut (fig. 8). Fig. 8. A Section across Boptcy's Hole. The width of the coulee at the top is about 1,000 yards. From the level of the prairie on either side, there is a steep plunge down ; the total depth to the dry bed of the little stream being, according to aneroid measurements, 150 feet. On the west side, a second terrace of 50 feet in height is very distinct, while on the eastern slope a similar terrace, at about the same height, seems to be indicated ; at present, however, there remains only a series of little conical hills all lying in a continuous line and presenting quite a peculiar appearance. This ravine is now dry, with the exception of a few springs of moderately good water on the west side. The water from these springs moistens the ground for a little distance about the point where they appear, but soon sinks out of sight. In the early part of the year, after the melting of the snow, more or less water evidently runs in the bed of the stream, which is dry in summer ; but its erosive power is small, and there is nothing in the present relations which will explain the existence of such an extended valley. Hopley's Hole is important to those who pass over this road, not only as furnishing one of the few sources of water in this part of the route, but also because along the eastern edge of the valley there is here and there a little timber : a few straggling pine-trees which have ventured out into the prairie from the adjoin- ing hills, and which show, by their appearance, that they have here a hard struggle for existence. The western slopes of this ravine, over which the limestone pebbles before mentioned are thickly scattered, are more gradual than the eastern ; and, while the former are covered with thin grass, the latter shows a line of exposure of the sandstone which underlies the level prairie here. The upper 112 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, part of this is yellow and quite ferruginous; that below whitish and a little shaly. It varies some- what at different points; in one place turning into a soft, dark-colored slate in very thin layers. The whole exposure maybe 15 or 20 feet in thickness ; the sandstone having a very slight south- easterly dip. No fossils could be found, and the rock seemed to be without any special character- istic features, with the exception of pipe-stem pieces of carbonate of lime, which were quite common. They occupied a vertical position, sometimes curving more or less, and were 6 to 15 inches in length ; possibly they were holes in the sand made by borers and subsequently filled up. West of Hopley's Hole, the plain is nearly level for a long distance, broken only by one or two gullies. The general slope of the whole is very gradual to the south toward the Musselshell River and far beyond. In this direction, there is nothing to break the view, and the eye wanders unre- lieved over a vast range of dry, parched prairie, from which, at midday, the heated vapors arise, producing the illusive phenomena of the mirage. Haymaker's Creek, twenty-five miles from the gap, offers another example of the extensive erosion which has taken place in this region. The stream at present carries very little water, and that quite strongly alkaline, especially late in the summer, at which time it barely moves at all. On the west side, the terrace is high and distinctly marked. It may be traced from the mountains to the Musselshell River with the same gradual slope noticed elsewhere ; here also quite inde- pendent of the dip of the strata, which make a small angle with its upper surface. On the east side, the slope is very gradual ; the final height not beiug attained for several miles. A short distance below the road-crossing, the sandstone is exposed. For the most part, it is a fine-grained rock of even texture, and of a light-bluish color, becoming yellow on exposure to the weather. Much of this lies in exceedingly thin, paper-like layers.- There are also a few layers of a blue, impure limestone, and toward the top a bed of coarse sandstone, almost a conglomerate, containing some indistinct plant-remains, shells, and a few sharks' teeth and vertebra, which show the beds to be Cretaceous No. 5. The remains are too poorly preserved to be specifically identified. The genera are as follows : 1. Grypluva, sp. 2. Ostrea, sp. 3. Lamm, sp. (teeth). 4. Galeocerdo, sp. (teeth). The strata have a slight dip (5°) northerly; and a little to the north, where the thin-bedded sandstone only is visible, the beds are horizontal or dip slightly to the south. A mile or two far- ther, i. e., west, we meet several outcrops of a dark ocher-yellow sandstone, in which some pipe- stem calcareous fragments suggested those found at Hopley's Hole. A few indistinct vegetable remains were also obtained, but nothing characteristic. The slight dip is reversed in a subsequent exposure, showing an extremely low fold, the meaning of which will be explained later. Fol- lowing these are a series of bluffs, sandstones, or sandy shales, some of which we were enabled to visit. None of them afforded us any fossils. Over these, we noticed a few washed exposures of white and cream-colored clays. These doubtless all belong to the Upper Cretaceous, though, in view of their very slight dip, it would require more time than we had at our disposal to make out their exact stratigraphical rela- tions. In general, it may be said of these sandstone bluffs that they are more tilted as we approach the mountains, and seem to owe their position to the forces which threw up this range of hills. On reaching the Forks of the Musselshell, we come into a more attractive region. From the Judith Gap to this point, the prairie is almost a desert, dry and parched, and the grass very thin- Both branches of the Musselshell River, however, are fine running streams, and at their union the alluvial country is wide and susceptible of profitable cultivation. Just before reaching the Forks, we passed a ranch where a system of irrigation had produced excellent agricultural results. From the Forks our road took us along the north branch of the Musselshell River, and two miles beyond we entered the Musselshell Canon. The open country here is rough, and is charac- terized by many step-like ridges of sandstone, on one side steep, showing the edges of the strata, and on the other sloping off gradually, and covered over with grass. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 113 MUSSELSHELL CANON TO CAMP BAKER. The Musselshell Cafion divides the Little Belt Mountains from what is called the Elk Range. It is a narrow mountaiu-ravine, with steep hills on both sides, which sometimes approach very closely together, and again recede, giving room for a little strip of green meadow-laud on the border of the stream. It is, throughout its length of eight miles, very picturesque, especially near the eastern end, where the abrupt walls and buttresses of white limestone contrast strongly with the dark-green foliage of the pines and spruces. All together, it was a most delightful relief from the parched alkaline prairie on which we had made our camps for the preceding fortnight. The waters of the stream are clear and cold, and abound in what is apparently a species of Corcgonus. This fish rose readily to a fly, affording to some members of the party fair sport, and furnishing a very agreeable variety to the sameness of our daily fare. On leaving the open country and entering the calion, we came abruptly upon the Carboniferous rocks. A baud of red clay a few feet wide is quite conspicuous at its eastern opeuiug, followed by several others less striking and quite narrow, all red or ocher-yellow. These are interstratified with a sandstone which contains great numbers of Ostrea congesta, Con., as identified by Mr. Whit- field. These dip west 50°. Immediately following these are successive layers of limestones and slates, and then several hundred feet of limestone. From the former beds the following fossils were obtained : 1. Bryozoan (undescribed). 2. Atilopora, or bases of Syringopora. 3. Zaplirentis centralis, Ev. & Shum. 4. Productus semireticuiatus, Mart. 5. Productus muricatus, N. & P. 6. Productus, sp., probably young of P. punctatus. 7. Productus, sp., approaches forms referred to P. Prattenanus. 8. Productus multistriatus, Meek. 9. Athyris, sp. 10. Pinna Ludlovi, Whitfield (n. sp.). The overlying limestone-beds all dip like the others, a little south of west, 50° to G0°. These limestones form a number of high vertical walls and isolated towers, which are worn out into a variety of fantastic forms which have already been alluded to. These are especially conspicuous on the north side of the stream, though similar walls are seen too on the other side in the line of the strike. This limestone is very cherty, the fragments of flint being numerous ; and it is to their presence that the rock owes the peculiar forms in which it now appears. The walls show no evi- dence of structure or stratification. They abound in little cavities and holes, often partially filled with stalactitic masses of carbonate of lime, showing the extent to which the solvent action of water has worked upon them. A similar relation of the rocks was observed on the upper slopes of the Bridger Mountains ; that is, the series of bright-red indurated clays, with a little Cretaceous sandstone, followed by thin layers of limestone full of Carboniferous fossils, and then 500 feet or more of a firm cherty limestone, weathering out into walls showing no stratification and rarely containing fossils. The limestones are overlaid by (Jurassic and) Cretaceous and underlaid by Silurian. The similarity in the succession of the beds makes it quite certain that the underlying rocks at the entrance of the Musselshell Canon are really the youngest, forming the upper part of the Carboniferous series, while the rocks which follow and overlie, apparently conformably, are older, and, in part at least, Lower Silurian. The later layers of the limestone, going west through the canon, have a somewhat different look from those seen farther to the east, being darker-colored and more uniform in appearance. Leaving the limestone, we passed over perhaps a quarter of a mile without finding any rock in place, though on the hill-slopes to the south masses of a hard, reddish quartzite indicate the pres- ence of this as a member of the series. The next exposure reached was an argillitic slate, with veins of quartz, also dipping westerly. The hills for a considerable distance are rounded and covered with grass, exposing no rocks within the limits that we were able to cover. The prevailing rock, as we continue up the canon, following the course of this branch of the low 114 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, Musselshell, is a clay-slate, of which there must be a very great thickness, iuterstratified with some sandstone-beds. The central portion of the range is trachyte, which is very abundant, forming a series of high hills and seriously interrupting our observations in the succession of the strata. Occasional outcrops of sedimentary rocks, principally slates and shales, appear; but as they contained no fossils, and as their succession was everywhere interrupted by the trachyte, their relations to what had preceded remain very uncertain. On the whole, the caiion gives a very fair exposure of the successive rocks, and to one -who could do more than take passing notes in riding through it would no doubt yield some important facts. Leaviug the canon, we emerge into an open rolling country, covered with grass, and with few exposures of the underlying rock. This, as far as could be observed, was a yellowish fragmentary slate, with occasional veins of quartz and calcite. A number of openings have been made by indi- viduals prospecting for metal, but only faint indications of copper were observed. At Copper- opolis, a mine has been sunk some 40' feet into this slate, and some very fair copper-ore and a little silver ore are being taken out. The mine is being worked on a very small scale indeed, only two men being engaged in it ; but the ore obtained is sufficiently valuable to pay its way to the East, where (at Baltimore) it is smelted. Near this point we pass the divide, and descend rapidly to the valley of Deep Creek, leaving the Musselshell behind us, and striking waters that flow into the Missouri near Sun River; that is above Fort Benton. The valley of Deep Creek, though here somewhat narrow, becomes rapidly wider as we follow it down to Camp Baker. It is a fertile alluvial -plain, and is no doubt susceptible of successful and profitable cultivation. There is as yet, however, no market for cereals in the vicinity, and the grassy meadows are given up to large herds of cattle, which range at will over the valleys and foot-hills. Every settler owns some cattle and horses, and these require little or no care, even in winter. The inhabitants state that they cut no hay for the winter-consumption of their stock, nor do they build stables or shelters for them at that season. The animals are said to run out all winter and to keep fat on the standing hay. Montana beef has quite a reputation for excellence west of the Missouri, so that the raising of cattle is likely to prove the most profitable pursuit for the settler until railroads shall have supplied him with a market for other products. Deep Creek, like most of the streams in this neighborhood, abounds iu delicious trout and grayling (Thymallus), both of which attain a large size, sometimes weighing three pounds and more. To our left, as we come down the valley of Deep Creek, we have the Elk Range high above us, the summits of which consist of trachyte. This has taken many curious forms, as pinnacles and towers, which rise above the timber, and give to the hills a very castellated appearance. An out- crop of purplish-red slate to the left of the road, and dipping 40° southerly, deserves to be men- tioned, as its exact counterpart was seen at Camp Baker, sixteen miles distant, there overlying the Potsdam limestones. To the right, that is west, were a series of limestone ridges with masses of trachyte iuterstratified. These beds of trachyte have all the appearance of sedimentary rocks at a distance, so entirely do they conform to the uptilted beds of limestone. These latter have a dip of 40° to the southwest. They have the appearance of the Potsdam limestone beds just spoken of as occurring at Camp Baker, and since, if continuing, their strike would make them appear there, it is hardly to be doubted that they too are Silurian. The Sulphur Springs are about 17 miles from Copperopolis, and beat the point where the road to Camp Baker turns at a sharp angle to the west. The springs have a temperature of 150° or thereabouts, and are strongly impregnated with sulphureted hydrogen. They are quite well known through the Territory, and are believed to have the beneficial effects generally ascribed to similar springs, and to be especially valuable in cases of rheumatism, a complaint very common among miners. Considering the vast trachytic upheaval which has taken place in that vicinity, the pres- ence of hot sulphur springs can hardly excite surprise. From the Sulphur Springs, the road continues west, at the foot of the Big Belt Mountains, cross- ing a wide grassy plain, which has an even, uniform slope up to the edges of the hills. The stream, some ten miles from the springs, where Newlaud Creek joins it, runs through a gorge of por- phyritic trachyte with a distinct columnar structure. This rock borders the creek for some dis- tance, and the dike runs across the road, continuing ou in a northerly direction. From here a TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 115 march of seven miles took us to Camp Baker; tlie road passing along by bluffs of Miocene Tertiary, to be described later. CAMP BAKER. At Camp Baker, where we made a sbort stay, we were the recipients of most kind hospitalities from the officer at that time iu command there, from whoin also we received valuable informa- tion in regard to the surrounding country. During the time spent at this point, we were enabled to make an imperfect reconnaissance of the immediate vicinity. The descriptions given below may be better understood by reference to the following cut (fig. 9): Camp Baker lies in a broad plain, which is surrounded on all sides by mountains, of which the Big Belt to the south are the most conspicuous and highest. We are here on the eastern border of the mountain-region, which extends far to the westward. The valleys of Deep Creek and its tributaries are filled with deposits of Miocene Tertiary. These consist for the most part of homo- geneous cream-colored clays, so hard as to be with difficulty cut with a knife. The lower layers are generally more loose and homogeneous, while the upper beds are harder, firmer, and sometimes quite calcareous. Some of the upper beds are remarkable for the lai'ge number of white clay con- cretions which are found iu them. The beds are horizontal, and rest nnconformably on the somewhat upturned yellow and red slates below; the clays of which they are formed resemble closely those of the Miocene beds at Scott's Bluffs near the North Platte Biver in Wyoming. The deposits at Camp Baker have been extensively denuded, and nowhere reach any very great thickness. At a point about three miles southeast of the post, some bluffs were noticed where the Miocene beds attained a thickness of 200 feet, and these were capped by 50 feet of Pliocene clays, both beds containing characteristic We saw the first exposures of these beds a few miles west of the Sulphur Springs, just after crossing the high ridge of trachyte before referred to, through which Deep Creek flows. Prom here, the lake bed was traced continuously along Deep Creek for a distance of fifteen miles. Beds of the same character, containing fossils, were found on Spring Creek to the east, on White-tailed Deer Creek, about seven miles to the north of Camp Baker, as well as on Camas Creek to the south- west. On Camas Creek, the beds are exposed for a mile or more iu bluffs ranging from 20 to 25 feet in height. The exposures on White-tailed Deer Creek are much more extensive than those last 116 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, mentioned. Those on Camas Creek are in thick, rather indistinct, layers, and contain more or less bluish sand in irregular layers, and sometimes a little coarse gravel. Traces of this deposit, containing what appear to be remains of Rhinoceros, were also observed two miles or more south of Moss Agate- Springs (to be referred to later), and at a considerable elevation above the creek-bed. With more time than we had at command, they could, no doubt, have been traced much farther, although in many places the beds have been washed out, or have been covered by the later local drift. In the Miocene beds were found a species of Rhinoceros ; several species of Oreodon, Leidy, and Rporeodon, Marsh; a canine tooth apparently of Rlotherium, Pomel; and remaius of Turtles. In the Pliocene beds, the principal fossils were a species apparently of Merychyus, Leidy; remains of an equine smaller than the modem horse; and Pliocene Turtles. These fossils have not yet been carefully studied, and, for this reason, their relation to the remains found in the other lake-basins of similar age cannot here be stated. The line of separation between the Miocene and Pliocene beds is, iu some places, well marked. It consists of about six feet of hard sands iuterstratified with layers of very small, water-woru pebbles, soldered together into a hard mass. Each of these layers is about 6 inches in thickness. Immediately above these strata, the Pliocene fossils were found. It is known that in the neighborhood of Fort Shaw, and near Helena, Pliocene deposits exist; and near Fort Ellis, and in the valley of the Yellowstone, we saw, but were unable to examine, gray sands and marls, which Dr. Hayden refers to the same age. No Miocene beds, however, have been identified at any of these localities. It seems probable that, in Pliocene time at least, the Baker Lake may have extended north to the Missouri River, and perhaps up that stream to the " Three Forks ", thus connecting with the lake which existed near Fort Ellis. Indeed, it would seem that we just touched upon the southern edge of this basin, which may have extended far to the north and west. An interesting point in connection with these deposits is the fact that, with the exception of one deposit in Colorado, they are at a much greater elevation than any other beds of the same age now known on the continent. The elevation of the White River beds is about 3,000 feet, and that of the Oregon basin somewhat less; while that of the deposits near Camp Baker is over 5,000 feet. On the east side of the plain on which Camp Baker stands, the Miocene has entirely disap- peared. It is to be noticed that these Tertiary beds were deposited after the elevation of the older rocks, and that most of the denudation now visible in these rocks must have been accomplished before the deposit of the Tertiary, as it is repeatedly seen filling the depressions and unevennesses iu the slates, as also covering over the ridges of trachyte. Underlying the Tertiary, and tilted up at a small angle, appear a series of yellow slates and shales, which are quite generally distrib- uted in this region, though not seen elsewhere. They are seen generally as a fine-grained slaty rock, friable and weathering readily, so that exposures of the rock in place are rarely found. Occa- sionally, there are observed in them immense black concretions of remarkable structure. In the interior, these consist mostly of a calcareous clay, very hard, and showing distinctly what is called the cone-in-cone structure. Outside of this, the lime is purer, though lying in concentric layers, and the exterior shell is made up of fibrous calcite half an inch iu thickness. The clay cones radiate from the center of the concretions. The slates are destitute of fossils, and their age is only a matter for conjecture. The most remarkable feature connected with them is that they have, in spots, a bright brick-red color; thus, iu riding over the country, a patch of intensely red-colored soil will be seen here and there, strongly suggestive of the burned lignite beds of the Missouri River. The slate has at such points the appearance of burned pottery; the material being harder and firmer than the surrounding rock. In some cases the red color was uniform in the rock; but generally it was distributed in successive bands, as though produced by the action of hot water. The red patches are quite local, and seldom cover more than a few square yards, though in one case they were seen extending along a range of hills for a hundred yards or more. That the effect produced has been caused by the action of heat cannot be questioned, though under what conditions no attempt is made to conjecture. As has been said, these shales and slates are tilted up unquestionably ; but their exact relations to the underlying rocks could not be made out without more opportunity for investigation than we had. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAEK. H7 The difficulty in settling the matter arose from the fact that the loose shale seldom showed its true position. We find this formation in the immediate vicinity of Camp Baker, both to the east, where it forms high hills 250 feet above the plain, also to'the south and west, where it is intersected by some dikes of porphyry, and quite extensively below in the valley of Deep Creek, as well as along the valley of White-tailed Deer Creek. Its general distribution seems to conform to a certain extent to that of the Miocene Tertiary that is filling the valleys between the older rocks. The older rocks alluded to form the rauges of hills conspicuous about Camp Baker. Immedi- ately north of the post lies a range of hills, having an east and west trend, through which Deep Eiver takes its course by means of a canon, which gives an excellent section of the rocks of which the hills are composed. The rocks all dip south, and this dip continues the same for a mile or two to the north. South of the range alluded to, and close to the post, are several minor hills, and, at a distance, a series of others all singularly alike in appearance. The section of rocks alluded to is as follows : Quartzite 20 feet. A series of colored shales, chiefly red, but also green and blue, with a bed of trachyte interstratitied 150 feet. Two ridges of limestone, in all 80 feet. These limestones show abrupt bluffs to the north, and dip southerly. In the northernmost of the ridges were found — 1. Crepicephalus {Loganellus) montanensis, Whitf. (n. sp.) ; 2. Obolella, sp.?; identifying the formation as Potsdam, according to Mr. Whitfield. Following this is a quartzite, which forms the south side of the hill alluded to. The section is continued through the canon : quartzite 40 feet, firm and solid, with a reddish tinge of color, breaking into massive blocks; under- neath is a series of bright green slates, followed by a variety of clay-slates, mostly dark-colored, with occasional beds of hard solid quartzite and some thin layers of limestone. After half a mile, the ridge is passed, and the stream comes out into the open country. The rocks, for a mile or two, however, are mostly the same iu dip, and are conformable. They are chiefly dark blue shales. The appearance of the quartzite hills in this neighborhood is peculiar, as they all have a grad- ual slope to the south, but are nearly vertical toward the north, on which side there is at their foot a talus of large cubical blocks of quartzite. We were unfortunately not able to visit the Big Belt Mountains. CAMP BAKER TO FORT ELLIS. From Camp Baker, the party marched to Fort Ellis ; the road for a short distance being the same as that before traveled. The road passes to the right of the Elk Bange. Twenty miles from Camp Baker, we reached the extremity of this range. At this point, we passed immediately from the grassy meadow onto the older rocks. Here we found first a red shale similar to that at Camp Baker, and also to that observed higher up, four miles the other side of the Springs. This was fol- lowed by a heavy massive quartzite, a little reddish and very firm ; and overlying this was a considerable thickness of limestone. This last is well exposed just above Moss Agate Springs, and in some of the layers we found an abundance of fragments of Trilobitcs. The limestone is much of it very cherty, and in many places it formed the same abrupt and peculiar shapes noticed elsewhere. Just above Moss Agate, there is a little superficial syucliual fold in the limestone, the axis of which has an approximately northeasterly direction. Moss Agate Springs takes its name from the frag- ments of flint, chalcedony, and agate, which are common on the adjoiuiug hills, and many of which, from the presence of the arborescent forms of psilomelaue, are popularly called "moss agates". These fragments of silica are evidently from the limestone, and are quite characteristic of it. Similar fragments of chalcedony, though without the moss effect, were found abundantly iu some of the little hills just by Camp Baker. The limestone is evidently the same as that, as is moreover proved by its association with the quartzite and by the few fossils found in it; these were all of one species, a new TriloUte, — Arionellus tripimctatus, Whitf. (n. sp.). 118 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, The road from Moss Agate passes, it is true, more or less at the end of the hills, but at such a distance from them as to afford hut little opportunity for observation. From a distance, it is observed to how great an extent the hills are made up of limestone, with the conspicuous trachylic prominences before mentioned. From the limestone, we pass immediately to a dark, somber sand, stone of granular texture and quite peculiar in appearance. This had a dip to the west, and con- tained some indistinct plant-remains. On our return journey, we found time to touch at the southeastern extremity of the same hills near the source of Flathead Creek, and here we passed directly from sandstones resembling the one spoken of to the limestone exactly similar to those so often observed at various points in this range. It agreed in all respects with the other exposures. A few indistinct fossils were obtained from a loose block, which had evidently come from close at hand, and these show it to be Carbon- iferous. They were identified by Mr. Whitfield as Spirifera centronata, Winch. The country near the branch of Deep Greek on the south side of the Elk Range is attractive and covered with good grass, supporting large herds of cattle; but, after passing the low divide which separates the above-named stream, a tributary of the Missouri, from Shields River, a branch of the Yellowstone, a more or less decided change is observed. The prairie is here dry and barren, espe- cially to the south of Cottonwood Creek, and supports nothing but a thick growth of sage-brush. 1 1 is watered by several running streams beyond Sixteen-mile Creek, of which Cottonwood is one of the most important, in view of the fact that its banks are fringed with fine trees, from which it takes its name. As we approach Bridger's Pass, the character of the country improves again, and the large numbers of cattle met with near this point indicate its capabilities in the way of grazing. Of the geological relations of this part of the road, we saw little on our way south. While returning, how- ever, our opportunities for observation were better, and the results are presented immediately below. Bridger Pass is a high mountain-divide, thickly wooded, and with the high limestone cliffs of the Bridger Mountains overhanging it on the west side. The scenery is fine, and the change from the bare prairie to the grateful shade of the wooded mountainside is gladly welcomed by the traveler Geologically speaking, the prevailing rock is the dark sandstone described later, and known to belong to the Upper Cretaceous. The position of the strata is nearly vertical. An occasional dike of igneous rock was observed, and one of these was conspicuous on the north side of the pass. It consists of a greenish basalt in spherical nodules, separating in the fracture into successive thin slabs. High above the road, as we approach Fort Ellis, we noticed the horizontal strata of the Pliocene Tertiary, which, according to Haydcn, extends far away toward the west. From Fort Ellis, the party extended their trip into the Yellowstone Park. We introduce here, however, the additional observations made on our return-trip through the country just mentioned. BRIDGER MOUNTAINS. On our return to Carroll from Fort Ellis, early in September, we encountered much trouble at first from the condition of the roads, which were almost impassable, owing to the unprecedented amount of rain that the country had recently received. We made use of the delay which this occa- sioned in the movements of the wagons, to make a little exploration of the Bridger Mountains, or East Gallatin Range, as it is sometimes called. These observations could not be extended beyond the east side of the range, and hence are only fragmentary. Considerable time was devoted to the same mountains by Dr. Haydeu and his parties in 1S71 and 1872, and reference may be made to his reports for those years for the facts observed by them. This range of mountains is especially conspicuous as viewed from the east side, rising up steeply from the deep and narrow valley, and terminating in a nearly perpendicular white wall, with a sharp knife-edge for its summit. We ascended the ridge from two points : first, September 4, from a point in the valley below, about six miles from Fort Ellis; and, again, September 5, from our camp, a short distance to the north side of the divide in the Bridger Pass. The rock of the valley, and indeed of the pass, as far as observed, is a sandstone of somber lints, gray, brownish, or greenish. The texture is generally granular and gritty, and the rock is more or less speckled with grains of quartz and feldspar. Iu general, it may be said to be a sand- TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PABK. 119 stone ma from poorly-assorted materials. It contains, in some layers, impressions, generally indistinct, of vegetable remains. It is referred, as a whole, to the "Coal Series", by Dr. Hayden ; and he further estimates its thickness at 10,000 feet. This seems to us considerably to exceed the truth. "We found the same series of sandstones extending in a number of wide folds over the prairie to the north ; and this would make it probable that even if there be a thickness of 10,000 feet of vertical strata belonging here, it has been formed by the pressing together of an anticlinal fold par- allel to the range of mountains. This is the more likely, as the strata of the beds all dip steeply, and are often overturned, the dip being reversed. Ascending the hills from the point first mentioned, somewhat north of the Bridger Peak, we passed for a long distance through the timber, crossing, here and there, little open parks and valleys, up to the foot of the range proper. Up to this point, we had seen but few exposures of rock, and those similar to the sandstone already described. The section observed from this point to the summit is as follows : Eed earth and clay, with occasional masses of indurated red clay, seldom showing any stratification ; in all, CO feet. Following this, and, in its present position, overlying, though, in fact, geologically, underlying it, is a thick-bedded sandstone, dipping 00° west; strike north 20° west. This rock was mostly yellow and ferruginous; its texture gritty, at times becom- ing a mass of coarse pebbles. Occasional layers were calcareous, aud contained multitudes of indis- tinct Cretaceous shells (see list below). These often yielded to the weather, the rock becoming then rusty aud cellular. The visible thickness of this deposit was 40 feet. Then, after a small interval, follows a firm, blue, compact limestone; the first layers containing a few Jurassic fossils, and those following the same in greater numbers (see list below). The thickness of this bed is about GO feet. Following this is a sandy limestone; and then comes the Carboniferous limestone, which forms the remainder of the upper part of the hill for a distance of 700 or S00 feet, the total thickness of these strata being perhaps 500 feet. This limestone has the same massive and, on weathering, structureless character remarked elsewhere. Some layers seem to be a conglomerate of fragments cemented together by a calcareous paste. Thin layers of dark flint, two or more inches in thickness, are common, running irregularly through the limestone blocks, and also isolated masses of the same rock of greater or less size. At the summit, the dip is 70° east. Fossils were not com- mon in this rock ; those found were chiefly corals. Continuing along the narrow summit for some distance toward the north, all the time on the solid limestone, we found its dip varying consider- ably from east to west. On descending, a band of red clay was passed over at the foot of the com- pact limestone, aud calcareous layers iuterstratified with it contained some Carboniferous fossils. The dip here was west. This is the same band noted on the succeeding day, and to be described farther on. In other respects, the return trip added nothing to what had been before observed. On the following day, the ridge was ascended again from a point some eight miles beyond ; but it did not yield us the complete section of the rocks that we had hoped for. The approach to the mountains was, for the most part, of necessity through the timber; the rock appearing but seldom, and this the dark-colored saudstone before noted. What was observed here would not enable us to do more than guess at its total thickness. Emerging into the open ground, high up on the range, we came upon a high ledge of a very massive, coarse sandstone, or rather a conglom- erate. The strike was north and south, aud the dip east 35°. The thickness actually exposed was small. Eisiug 500 feet from here, we found a series of limestone exposures mostly covered with grass- They yielded some Jurassic fossils, similar to those obtained the day before. The rock following was, as before, a white, sandy limestone, sparkling in the sun, and without fossils; then appeared the Carboniferous limestones. The point we had now reached is conspicuous from all parts of the surrounding country, being marked by two lines of deep red, like bloody gashes, in the side of the mountain. These red bands, though narrow, may be traced along the east slope of the hills for a considerable distance north and south, and form quite a striking feature of the range. The lower bed, made up of an indurated red clay, was only i feet in thickness ; but the color was very intense. Iuterstratified with these bands was a small thickness of variegated limestone, generally purplish, sometimes vermilion or greenish. This limestone abounded in Carboniferous fossils; not infrequently the shells occupied the center of little grayish circles in the reddish rock. These soft red bands have generally yielded 120 RECONNAISSANCE FEOM CARROLL, MONTANA, to denuding influences, and the point where we stood was a narrow neck of land with a deep gulf opening below us to the south and southeast. From here to the summit, we were on the massive Carboniferous limestone containing corals and crinoidal plates, with here and there a Spirifera. The summit of the ridge attained here was considerably higher than that previously ascended, and was evidently as high as, or higher than, any neighboring point north or south. The aneroid barometer indicated that the height was in the neighborhood of 10,000 feet. The higber points of the summit were thickly covered with snow, on which were lying thousands of dead grasshoppers : and in many places we saw the tracks of the grizzly bears which had ascended the range to feed on these insects. The prospect from this point is exceedingly grand and extended. The ridge, as has been remarked, is, at its summit, extremely narrow, coming to a sharp knife-edge, and the view is unob- structed in all directions. Nearly north and south stretch the irregular summits of this rugged range, while on either side the eye sweeps over the open prairie till arrested by the mountains which rise above the plain. To the east, the Crazy Woman's Mountains are most conspicuous; to the south, the ranges near the Yellowstone River ; and westward, the rich Gallatin Valley extends to the " Meeting of the Three Waters" ; and far beyond were the Bitter Root Mountains. At the foot of the abrupt cliffs on which we stood was a little mountain lake, far below us, though seem- ingly at our very feet. With its deep-blue waters, it was prettily set off by the white limestone cliffs above and the dark pines inclosing it on the farther side. The following cut (fig. 10) will give some idea of the general trend of the summit of the range. The points lettered (A, B, C, D) refer to the cuts which follow, showing roughly the dip of the Fig. 10. strata where indicated. No special importance is attached to these, except as showing the irreg- ularity which exists at different points. The younger rocks lie on the east side, the Carboniferous limestones form the summit, and the older rocks are on the west, with a reversed dip. We were unable to extend our observations below the summit, and hence have nothing to add in this relation to what is given in the reports already referred to. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 121 The following is a list of the fossils obtained during our examination of thoio mountains as identified by Mr. Whitfield : Cretaceous, September 4 and 5. Ostrea congesta, Con., associated with fragments of carbonized wood. Jurassic, September 4 and 5. 1. Camptonectcs extenuatus, Meek. 2. Camptonectcs bellistriata. Meek. 3. Myacites (Pleuromya) subcompressa, Meek. 4. Myalina {Qervillia) perplana, Whitf. (n. sp.). 5. Qervillia erccta, M. & H. 6. Gervillia sparsaradiata, Wfiitf. (n. sp.). 7. Qrypluca planoconvexa, Whitf. (n. sp.). Carboniferous, September 4. Summit. 1. Cyathopylloid coral. 2. Crinoidal plates. 3. Platycrinus, sp. ?. 4. Spirifera centronata, Winch. Limestone iuterstratijied with tin: nd hands. 5. Productus ncbrascensis, Meek. 0. Chonetes mesoloba, Norwood & Pratten. 7. Athyris, sp. 1 Carboniferous, September 5. Summit. 1. Cystiphyllum, sp.?. 2. Campopkyllum, sp.!. 3. Campophylhim torquium, Oweu. 4. Chwtetes, sp.?. 5. Zaphrentis centralis, Ev. & Shu in. ?. G. Syringopora mult-attenuata, McOhes. 7. Spirifera centronata, Winch. Limestone intersiratified with the red bunds. 8. Spiriferina Ecntuchensis, Shum. 9. Athyris planosulcata, Phil.i 10. Athyris subtilita, (H.) Meek. 11. Iihynchonella Osagcnsis, Swall.?. 12. Slrcptorhynclms crassns, M. & W. 13. Productus punctatus, Mart. 14. Productus costatus, Sow. 15. Productus Prattenanus, Norwood. 10. Productus coraf, or perhaps P. Prattenanus, Norwood. 17. Productus, sp. ; may be P. ncbrascensis, Meek. 1 S. Chonetes mesoloba, N. & P. 19. Chonetes granulifera, Oweu. 20. Euomphalus, sp. FROM THE BRIDGER MOUNTAINS TO THE FORKS OF THE MUSSELSHELL. We camped September 5 ou Cottonwood Creek, and made from here a short excursion to the west of the road. The main valley of Shields River is a synclinal, lying between the Bridger Mountains and the Crazy Woman's Mountains, with an axis pointing in a direction about north 20° west. In the valley, the rocks are rarely exposed ; but riding up the creek, two or three miles from the road-crossing, we find the rocks dipping 30° east, with the strike north 30° west. The exposures here show a friable sandstone, disintegrating readily. The rock has a dark, somber appearance, and is made up of a greenish or brownish base, with small grains of quartz and a little 16 w 122 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CAEROLL, MONTANA, feldspar. For a distance of two miles, tbe inclination reinaius the same; the rock standing up in a series of wave like ridges, all having an abrupt side toward the west, and a gradual slope to the east. Looking from the eastern side, the existence of the abrupt rock exposures would hardly be expected, so gradual is the rise of the grassy slopes. From the west, on the contrary, the eye is immediately struck by the remarkable series of hills with precipitous fronts. Some five miles from the road-crossing, there is a sudden change of dip, and as sudden a return to the easterly direction: this is very probably a local change, occasioned possibly by a dike of igneous rock noticed at that point. The rock is here generally a sandstone, answering more or "less closely to the description given above, sometimes a sandy slate, sometimes a whitish-gray sand- stone. At the headwaters of Cottonwood Creek, about six miles from the road, we found an exposure of a brown sandy slate, full of fucoidal remains, and containing a few indistinct shells. As this rock is apparently one of the lowermost layers in the group of rocks being described, these fossils are of interest as furnishing a clue to the thickness of the strata. The fossils are very poorly preserved, but have been identified by Mr. Whitfield as follows: 1. Crassatella, sp. 2. Cras&atella. near enough to ft vadosa, Morton, to have come from New Jersey. 3. Inoceravms, sp. -1. Pholqdomya, sp. 5. Uryphmi, sp. 6. Panopcea, sp., very near P. occidentalis, M. & II. 7. Seaphites tarveeformis, M. & H. Scaphites larvceformis is regarded as characteristic of Dr. Haydeu's No. 2. Above this bed there must be 5,000 feet of rock belonging to the Cretaceous, though referred in part by Dr. Hayden to the Coal Group. At the point mentioned we pass a deep grassy valley a few liundred feet in width, and on the other side rises along range of high bluffs lOOfeetabove, audexteudiug for a mile or more (see fig. 12). p=SEr— -_ Tne rocliS are exposed for a height of from 10 to ~~ 50 feet in the perpendicular eastern front of the bluffs, and form a feature of the country quite conspicuous even from a distance. The rock is a brown and gray sandstone in alternate layers, with occasional slaty bands. The dip is here westerly, it being the under part of a very long and low fold. From the summit, quite a good view is obtained to the west ; the bluff has an abrupt frout both to the east and northwest. The valley alluded to occupies the position of the axis of the anticlinal, and the fold itself is a continuation north of the folding which took place in the Bridger Range. Turning north from here, we crossed the divide a mile beyond, and came iuto a long valley which trends a little west of north. The rock observed here was a brownish-yellow saudstoue, with a clay-shale underlying it, and is undoubtedly Cretaceous, though containing no fossils. The valley alluded to drains iuto Sixteen-mile Creek. We followed it for a distance of ten miles, keeping along with the strike of the rocks, and found it abundantly covered with thick grass, or rather at this season with hay cured in the ground, which could afford grazing for multitudes of cattle. Turning again easterly, across the strike of the rocks, we cross a long series of wave-ridges dipping east as before, and much resembling those previously observed. A very white fine-grained saudstoue forms a series of bluffs not much west of the road. The valley of the south branch of Deep Creek is wide and level. Ou the northeastern side, where the road to the Forks of the Musselshell turns off to ascend the divide, there is quite a high ridge, extending from the end of the Elk Range across toward the Crazy Woman's Mountains. This valley is obviously, like its continuation below, a synclinal, for the strata dip sharply to the west 70°, the strike being the same northwest. The same dark-colored sandstone forms the first layer : this is underlaid by a saudy slate with large clay caunou-ball concretions. From here on for a mile, the dip is continuously westerly, there being the same series of wave-ridges observed before, TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 123 only Lere tbe dip is reversed, and tbe abrupt side is toward tbe east. Tbestiike remains tbe same, but tbe dip is gentler, averaging 40°. After some 5,000 feet of strata, tbe dip is reversed. An exposure of rock on tbe east side of tbe trail shows a laminated sandstone, generally soft and friable, but in some places very bard. Tbe dip of tbe first layers is 30°, and tbis increases as we proceed to 45°, tbe inclination being bere toward tbe east or nortbeast. A mile farther on, near the head of Flathead Creek, we notice another fold. The rock is here a soft yellowish sandstone, dipping west at a small angle, 15° to 20°. This contained many oval clayey concretions, and in the seams in the rock there was more or less calcite. Ripple-marks were noticed in one or two places. Still farther on, the opposite side of tbe fold is seen, and here it appears that the dark-green and gray rocks seen just after leaving tbe south branch of Deep Creek underlie the soft yellowish sand- stone observed near Flathead Creek. For a mile or two more, we pass over the sandstones, chiefly the dark rock, but occasionally noting beds of tbe lighter-colored. This latter is much cracked and broken, scaling off into platter-like slabs, so that good exposures of it are seldom seen. Another fold is passed over just before reaching the broad valley of Norton's Creek. We have thus the indications of three great folds between South Deep Creek and Norton's Creek, a distance of ten miles in a straight line. The strike varies from north to west, the dip is generally as much as 40°, and sometimes much more. A mile or two before reaching Norton's Creek, we pass to the left of a high butte formed by three narrow dikes of eruptive rock, seemingly conformable to the sandstone. At Norton's Creek, the country changes a little more, and we come upon a broad fertile syn- clinal valley. In this neighborhood, igneous rocks, before rare, beome very common, and beds of trachyte and basalt are repeatedly seen inter stratified with the sandstones. Tbe most conspicuous example of this is just to tbe west side of the meadow through which Norton's Fork flows. Here is a bed of trachyte apparently conformable to the sandstone, and evidently having been erupted between two layers of that rock. It has a semi-columnar structure; the heads of the columns point- ing toward the east, thus appearing as if it dipped west, though in reality the sedimentary rocks have an inclination in the opposite direction. In the broad meadow of Norton's Fork, a num- ber of isolated buttes of trachyte may be seen ; some of these having taken quite peculiar forms. In these folds, it is seldom possible to trace any single layer of rock, because the characters are not distinctive enough; occasionally, however, this may be done, as in the case mentioned above. A care- ful plotting of the successive exposures would doubtless show the continuity of the strata, and give an exact estimate of the thickness of the rocks involved, together with the width of each of the folds. This we were of course unable to undertake. On the east side of Norton's Meadow, the dip is westerly, and the strike northwest. Hero a brown sandstone is exposed, followed by a gray trachyte in beds, which, at a distance, look like a solid sandstone, and might easily be confounded with sedimentary rocks. Opposite where the South Fork of the Musselshell is joined by Flathead Creek, is the extremity of a little range of bills, trending northwest, and forming a sort of spur of the Elk Range, conforming in direction to the low folds we have been tracing, and seemingly like one of them, a little deeper, and having brought up lower strata. Following the sandstone, which is without fossils, we have, as we cross the east end of this hill, some beds of red clay, making a red soil, but not apparently very thick. Above on the hill is a hard, red quartzite, in massive blocks, which are scattered over tbe surface of the slope. On the east side of the hill, near the creek, we have several exposures of a gray and yellow sandstone dipping east, strike northwest, followed by a reversal of dip in the same beds. The rocks here observed are a dark ochery-yellow sandstone, firm, and in rather thick layers, and a whitish sandstone, sometimes in very thin, papery layers, sometimes massive, but not often very firm ; much the same association as at Uopley's Hole. The foldings here are not nearly so extensive as those described before ; the thickness of rock involved being perhaps not more than 1,000 feet. Near tbe hill, the dip is steep ; but a mile from it the inclination becomes very gradual, and insensibly the strata subside, becoming nearly hori- zontal. A slight eastward dip in the white sandstone is, however, reversed before reaching the Forks, where there is a broad alluvial country. This seems to be the dying out of tbe action which was more intense to the westward. Beyond tbe Forks, on the road to tbe Judith Gap (before trav- eled), tbe same brown sandstone and white sandstone are seen again, with a slight dip, which is 124 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, once more reversed, forming apparently a final fold in onr series, though the inclination is so slight that the direction remains uncertain. Our course along Flathead Greek was very nearly at right angles to the prevailing direction of the strike, so that we had a very good opportunity to observe the relations of the successive folds. FROM AKMELL'S CREEK TO THE MOUTH OF THE JUDITH. From our camp on Armell's Creek, a short excursion was made to the mouth of the Judith River; the intention being to make such examination of the country at that point as our limited time would admit of. The beds at the mouth of the Judith have been explored only once before (by Dr. Haydeu), and their age has hitherto been in doubt. We were able to remain but two days iu this interesting locality, and the results obtained were of course meager. Enough, however, was seen to establish the age of the beds at this point as beyond a doubt Cretaceous; three members of this division of Mesozoictime having been found there and identified by fossils. The ravines, which occur so constantly along the Missouri, extend back from that stream but a few miles, except where a river enters it. Tributaries, however, carry the ravines and the accom- panying Bad Lands back, sometimes to their sources. The country which may properly be consid- ered as Bad Lands near the Judith is quite extensive, and is of the most rugged and barren char- acter. Each little stream that flows into the Missouri is bordered by a strip of country more or less wide, that is gullied and washed out in deep and precipitous ravines, without vegetation, and generally utterly impassable, except for the bighorn or the wolf. The Bad Lands on. the Judith River extend along that stream for about twenty -five miles from its mouth, and run back from the river for about five miles on each side of the stream. Those on Arrow Creek, which flows into the Missouri a few miles west of the Judith, extend along it for ten or twelve miles back from its mouth, and have an average breadth of four miles on each side of the stream. Those on Uog Creek stretch back into the bluffs for about fifteen miles, running over to meet those of the Judith for about six miles of this distance, and reaching eastwardly nearly over to Armell's Creek, which also has an extensive system of Bad Lands. The rocks are chiefly sandstone, quite pure, often quite hard, but occasionally so soft as not to cohere in blocks when removed from the beds. Occasionally, thin beds of an arenaceous lime- stone are seen, and from these a few fossils may generally be obtained. Yellowish sandy clays and marls also occur toward the base of the bluffs, but without fossils, as far as could be seen, and lack- ing any distinctive features. Much of the lower portion of the bluffs is concealed by deposits of the Fort Pierre beds, Cretaceous No. 4, which occurs all along the Judith River bottom and in many of the ravines, sometimes running far back into the bluffs. These beds agree iu all respects with the deposits of that age seen near Carroll, Crooked Creek, and Box Elder. They were the same dark shales, containing the limestone concretions, with Baculites, &c, and abounding iu the glittering selenite crystals that seem to be peculiar to these beds. From our Camp on Armell's Creek, we followed the Ueleua road back toward Camp Lewis for live miles or more, and then, leaving it, took a course a little west of north, and, passing about ten miles to the eastward of the Moccasin Mountains, struck the divide between the Judith and Dog River, by which road alone our point of destination could be reached with the wagons. The time occupied in reaching our camp on the Judith was two days; the distance traveled being a little more than forty-five miles. At a point two miles north of our camp, on Armell's Creek, an exposure of bare bluffs was noticed, which furnished the following section, from below upward : Fret. Dark-gray horizontally-laminated shales GO Laminated slightly ferruginous sandstone 12 Soft, whitish clays, about 100 Dark-gray clays, intcrstratified with layers of impure limestone concretions, about - 100 Total 272 TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 125 The laminated sandstone contains numerous irony concretions, from the size of a pea up to two inches in diameter. These are quite soft, and break readily, showing a concentric structure. The sandstone is much weather-worn. The limestoue concretions, on exposure to the atmosphere crack and break up so that the surface of the bluffs is strewn with their angular fragments. They do not particularly resemble the concretions of the Fort Pierre shales seen near Crooked Creek. Later in the day, to the northeast of the Moccasin Mountains, we passed over a good exposure of tho Fort Fierre clays ; and about three miles beyond this, but at a much higher level were seen about 100 feet of white and yellow sandy clays, capped by a thin layer of fine grained calcareous brown sandstone. This latter was found iu place only on the tops of the highest hills. A few shells characteristic of No. 4 were found in the Fort Pierre beds, but none of the other exposures examined yielded any fossils. All the beds seen during the day were substantially horizontal. The divide along which our road took us is for twenty-live miles a gently rolling prairie, covered with a fair growth of bunch-grass. It is a favorite feeding-ground for the buffalo ; but, when we passed over it, only a few of these animals were seen, although signs of their recent presence were everywhere apparent. As wo approach the Missouri River, the divide becomes less and less wide and the road more winding. Deep ravines and coulees from Dog Creek and the Judith River run back until they almost meet, so that the road becomes narrow and often difficult. About seven miles from the Missouri River there is a narrow pass, the only approach for wagons to the mouth of the Judith. Hero the divide is only 10 feet wide, and on both sides steep and precipitous ravines run off to the east and west. This backbone continues for fifty or seventy-five yards in which distance it turns and twists sharply every few feet. Sometimes the wagon on one side seems to hang over a precipice a hundred feet in height, while on the other it grinds along against the face of a sandstone bluff elevated a few feet above the level of the road, or it has to be lowered carefully down an almost vertical slope of 30 or 40 feet, and to be dragged painfully up another as high and steep. From this point, a march of four miles over a gently rolling plateau brings us to the final descent into the Judith River bottom. The road down into the valley is long and steep ; the difference in height between the top of the bluffs and the level of tho valley being 1,200 feet. The upper 400 feet of tho bluffs are composed almost wholly of beds of sand, white and yel- low, nearly pure, interstratified with occasional fragmentary layers of a fine-grained, clayey, brown or red sandstone. The beds of white sand contains a few poorly-preserved Uuios and the remains of Dinosaurs (Hadrosaurus) and Turtles (Trionyx). The yellow sands contain many concretions of hard, yellow clay, but are without fossils, so far as examined. All the beds are horizontal, and most of them are quite hard. The white sands in some places change into a laminated white sand, stone, and seem to be always overlaid by the brown sandstone. At a lower level, these beds seem to pass into a white, firm, clayey sandstone, which is very hard ; but we were unable, in the limited time at our command, to fix the point at which tho change took place. The character of the lowest portion of the beds on the Judith is much obscured by the pres- ence of the Fort Pierre clays in the valley, and by tho washing out of tho base of the bluffs and consequent dropping down of tho rocks above them. This has taken place almost everywhere along the Judith and tho Missouri Rivers at this point ; and, in consequence of this, the rocks dip at every conceivable angle, and in all directions. A careful examination, however, will serve to convince the observer that all tho beds are really horizontal, and that the apparent beudiugs and twistings of the rocks referred to by Dr.IIayden are duo simply to the action of running water. This element has here acted on a scale so enormous as to be almost inconceivable to one who is not familiar with tho important part that is played by this agent in denudation in the West. At a time in the past when the Judith carried much more water than it does at present, the undermining of the high bluffs was constantly going on, just as tho higher alluvial banks of the Missouri River are being undermiued_at present ; and, as the lowest beds were washed out, the superincumbent rocks slipped .down in vast.masses. The process, on a small scale, may be seen every day while ascending the Missouri. Besides this, the water, which in spring, from the melt- ing snows and tho early rains/ is "carried by each of the thousand ravines which we find here, not only washes down the sides'of the ridges, but works under the bluffs, often boring for itself an underground passage from onc^coulvc to another. Such passages increase in size annually, and finally become so large as not to be able to support tho weight of the rocks above, which sink down 126 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, and nil up the tunnel. It is to these causes, and to tuese alone, that the apparent irregularity in the strata at this point is owing, and not to any uplifting of the various mountain-ranges which exist in the vicinity. The beds at the mouth of the Judith have been very little, if at all, disturbed by this latter agency. The Fort Fierre beds form what may be termed the lowest bench of the bluffs along the Judith near its mouth. They have been very much denuded ; at one point reaching a height of 560 feet above the river's level, and at other places along the bluffs being apparently wanting. Deposits of this age are found, not only in the main valley of the Judith, but in many little ravines back in the bluffs as well. It is evident that they at some points have been covered by the younger rocks which have dropped down from above. From the facts above mentioned it is very difficult, if not quite impossible, to get at the lowermost strata of the bluffs; and we were unable to accomplish it satisfactorily at any point. A considerable amount of surface-drift was noticed in the valley of the Judith and in the ravines running into it. This consists almost wholly of water-worn limestone pebbles, similar in appearance to the limestone observed at the western end of the Judith Mountains, in the Snowy Mountains, &c. One of these drift-pebbles contained Spirifera centronata. Winch. About two miles below our camp, and just above the crossing of the Judith, the Fort Pierre beds extend up the foot of the bluffs to a height of about 100 feet. Above these, where the main bluffs become visible, we noted 40 feet of soft, washed, yellowish clays, and over these 18 incbes of hard, blue to gray, impure limestone, containing : 1. Pholadomya subventricosa, M. & H. 2. Liopistha (Gymella) undata, M. & H. 3. Thracia Grinnelli, Whitf. (n. sp.) This was followed by 15 inches of soft, finely laminated sandstone, in color from white to yellowish-brown; next came 20 feet of soft yellow clays; and finally a layer of sandy limestone from 3 to 6 inches in thickness, and consisting almost wholly of the following shells, crowded closely together : 1. Tellina scitula, M. & H. 2. S2)h(criola Moreauensis, M. & H. 3. (!) Callista Deweyi, M. & II. 4. Lunatia concinna, II. & M. 5. Narica crassa, Whitf. (n. sp.) G. Baculites ovatus, Say. At a point said to be about one-third of the way up the bluffs on Dog River, the following fossils were collected by two members of the party : 1. Mactra warrcniana, M. & II. 2. Cardium spcciosum, M. & II. 3. Tellina (Arcopagia) Utahensis, M. & IT. 4. Tellina [Arcopagia) subulata, M. & H. They are imbedded in a soft yellow sandstone. These fossils, most of which are characteristic, and which have been compared by Mr. Whitfield with typical fossils now in the Smithsonian Museum at Washington, indicate the lower portion at least of these beds to belong to Cretaceous No. 5. At a point a little south of where the road descends into the valley, and about 300 feet above the level of the river, the following section was taken, from below upward : Feet, Hard, gray, laminated sandstone, passing near the top into a softer, yellowish rock r >° Yellow clayey sands 30 Soft yellow clays - 50 Total 130 Where the road comes into the valley, a bed of hard white sandstone, interstratified with TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAltK. 127 layers of yellowish laminated sandstone, is seen, the whole about 50 feet in thickness. No fossils were found in either of the above. It may be stated in general terms that the lower two-thirds (or 800 feet) of these bluffs consist of yellowish clays, iuterstratified with thin layers of sandstone and limestone, and that tbe upper 400 feet is almost wholly sandstone, more or less hard, generally white, but sometimes varying from that to a dark brown. Lignite occurs in the upper sandstone. A few hundred yards from our camp we noticed a bed of sand 15 feet thick, with several layers of impure lignite from 1 to 2 inches in thickness running through it. This bed had slipped down from some point high up on the bluffs, as it had no connection with the neighboring rocks, and had quite a steep dip. From the fossils obtained, it seems that the upper beds of sands and sandstones must bo referred to what have been called the Fort Union Beds, or No. 6 of the Cretaceous. It is a matter of regret to the writers that the observations at this point were so few and so disconnected as to give but little idea of the structure of the bluffs and the relations of the beds. The extent of country to be covered by our obseryations was very large; and patient study and observation, extended over a considerable time, would have beeu required to do justice to the locality. LITTLE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. A delay of a few days at Carroll on our return journey was iu part utilized by a short excursiou to the Little Eocky Mountains, which lie about twenty-five miles from the Missouri Kiver, almost due north of that settlement. The starting-point was a short distance below Carroll ; and, on reach- ing the north bank of the stream, we took a trail leading to Milk River, which wo were able to follow for some distance. The road rises quite steeply on first leaving the alluvial plain of the river, and attains 400 feet of its final height within a vory short distance. From here the rise is more gradual, the road winding to and fro, keeping on the summit of a narrow ridge, whose sides are washed down steeply ou either hand. The washiug-out of the bluffs was here even more striking than where observed on the south side of the Missouri; and the continually dividing and subdi- viding coulees form a labyrinth of little ridges and valleys, which would present a peculiar appear- ance could they be viewed from a point a few hundred feet directly above. The course for the road, however, has been so well chosen that the ascent is continuous; no descent into any minor ravines being necessary. The final rise is a matter of time, and the high plateau which forms the true bank of the river is only reached after a ride of several miles. The height at this point, as given by an aueroid, was 680 feet above Carroll, which corresponds closely with the similar measurements taken on the other side. After a little comparatively level prairie, the gradual rise is continued, and at the foot of the hills the height is 1,250 feet above the river. A section from Carroll to the mountains is given iu figure 13, which it is interesting to compare with figure 4 ; the scale is the same. The bluffs on the north bank are made up entirely of Fort Pierre shales, and these were observed from time to time nearly up to the mountaius. In general character, they do not differ from those before described. The surface of the prairie as we pass from the river is covered far and wide with drift, very similar to that observed ou the south side of the stream ; though here the quartzite pebbles are even more numerous, and cover the surface of the ground so thickly as almost to have crowded 128 RECONNAISSANCE FROM CARROLL, MONTANA, out the scanty vegetation. Grass is hardly present at all, and even the few weeds have a hard struggle for existence. This is true for lifteeu miles from the river. Approaching the hills, how- ever, the grass is more abundant; and occasionally in the more favored spots it is sufficiently thick to make it worth the while of citizens of Carroll to coruo here for hay. in addition to the small, smooth pebbles, the same masses of red and gray syenite found on the Crooked Creek road were seen here. The relations of these will be spoken of more particularly hereafter (p. 135). The quartzite pebbles are most numerous within ten miles of the river-bank, and hardly extend much beyond twenty miles. The same is true of the blocks of crystalline rocks to some extent, though they were seen occasionally quite near to the Little Rockies. It is to be remarked that here also there are no deposits of drift, the pebbles being merely sprinkled over the surface. The nearer we approached the mountains, the more numerous became the slightly washed and rounded fragments of trachyte, containing large, clear crystals of orthoclase. Some fragments of the same rock, by the way, had been seen near Carroll, on the south side of the river. The source of these fragments was obviously to be found in the hills we were approaching, and subsequent exploration proved the truth of this conjecture. The old trail was left after a time, and we continued on our way, striking across the prairie toward the hills. The country was very dry and barren ; the only water seen being in some holes, and that was intensely alkaline. In general, it may be stated here that these hills are very dry, and do not give rise to the numerous running streams, which make the region near the Judith Mountains attractive. The level character of the prairie was favorable to the progress of the ambu- lance, but^not at all so for geological investigation ; an occasional wash of black shales being the sum-total of all that was observed during a march of twenty -five miles. As we approached the hills, we passed near to the edge of the high bluffs, which pitched steeply down to the valley of Little Rocky Mountain Creek. The view which was opened out to us was extended and striking, looking down on the Bad Lauds of the creek at hand, and those which extended on indefinitely westward. The bed of the stream offered attractions for geological work ; but the descent promised so badly for the mules and their load that it was decided to turn away, and keep on the high land. We made our camp in a meadow some two miles south of the mountains at a spot which fur- nished a little stagnant water. Here we had the hills in front of us, and on either hand a terrace about four miles apart, which stretched southward till they blended with the general level of the prairie. These high terraces two hundred feet above the level of the adjoining plain, are con- spicuous features of the landscape, and are important as bearing on the general question of the circumstances under which this country has been denuded. The results of the observations of the following day are contained for the most part in the accompanying sketch. We first examined the strata at the most easterly point (a). The intervening prairie was doubtless once covered with the upturned strata, but now only isolated patches are to be seen. At a, we found a brown massive sandstone, cellular and remarkably honey combed on the surface as if worn by water washing against it. Its texture was even, with the exception of numerous rusty iron pellets. It dipped strongly (60°) southerly, strike north 80° east; and, standing up as a high wall or rampart, it had survived the denuding influences which had been too severe for the overlying strata. The outer layer of this sandstone was 12 feet in thickness, and more compact than those that followed; the total thickness being 40 feet. The next exposure was in the coulee 400 yards behind this wall, where followed a series of blue and yellow shales 500 feet in thickness. These had the same direc. tion of strike as the sandstone, but the dip was steeper, becoming nearly vertical, then changing to north. The observations in this direction were cut off by the high hill of trachyte at b. The talus from this hill extends out for some distance from it, covering up all sedimentary strata beneath it. At c rises a second complementary hill of trachyte, and lying between these two and limiting the prairie in this direction is an imposing limestone wall. This is worth mentioning, for it is so con spicuous an object as to be distinctly visible in clear weather at a distance of fifty miles to the south. The mountains seem from such a point to have a continuous white girdle ruuniug around them. This is due to the limestone and to its continuation east and west in the range; the abrupt wall of trachyte also continues this girdle whero the limostone is interrupted. The limestone wall shows no stratiQcation, but its face has a steep dip south 70°, and, in character as well as in result of weathering, resembles the Carboniferous limestone so often described. TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 121) Trachyte. ■ . .. - $$!& K i I ,111.. }; 143 Sanguinolabia oblata. Fig. 3. View of a left valve, natural size 144 Fig. 4. View of the same, enlarged to show more distinctly the form 144 Mactka mai a. Fig. 5. View of a left valve, enlarged, showing the general form of the shell, the impression left by the removal of the posterior lateral tooth, and the sinus of the pallial line 144 Theacia (Cobimya) Geestnelli. Fig. 6. View of the right side of the specimen 144 Fig. 7. Cardinal view of the same, showing the bending of the valves 144 GEBVIIXIA SPABSU.IEATA. Fig. 8. View of the left side of the specimen described; the posterior end restored in outline 142 Gryphjda planoconvexa. Fig. 9. Cardiual view of a very convex lower valve, showing the curved beak, which is truncated by attachment to some foreign substance 142 Fig. 10. View of the exterior of same, showing the general form 142 Vanikobopsis Toumeyana. Figs. 11 and 12. Views of the opposite sides of the specimen described, showing the characters of the shell; the latter figure showing the aperture as seen on the specimen broken and imperfect 145 Fig. 13. A restored figure, showing what would appear to be the form of the aperture when complete. The umbilicus is shown as seen in the specimen when turned niore to the right than in fig. 12 145 .NEW SPECIES OF FOSSILS Cap!- Wm Ludlow's Exp. to Yellowstone Park, 1875. ~\ . ".' .-indair i. :cr .li-:..::.i^ INDEX. A. Page. Aciiturw bariramiua 87 ASgialitis monlanw 86 vodferus 85,92 Agelaeus phceniceus 78 Ahtndidte 74 Alee americana 09, 91 Aleedinidee 80 Alcedo alcyon : 80 Alkaline deposits 99 Alluvial clays 97 Alluvial deposits 97 Alum Creek 23,0-2 American Fork, (Musselshell) 57 American Lauuer Falcon 82 American Widgeon 88 Amethyst Mountain 30 Ammonites Ilalli 101 Ampelidw 70 Ampelis cedrorum 70 garrulus 70 Analysis of alkali 100 Anas bosckas 88 Anatidce 88 Anchura \ 101 Aiiser liyperboreus 88, 92 Antelope 70 Antkus Ludovicianus 74,91 Antilocapra americana 70,91 Appearance of country near Carroll 100 Aquila eltrysaelos 83 Aiehibittco ferrugitieus 83 lagopttssaiicti-jaltaintis 83,92 Architectural Geyser 131 Arctic Bluebird 73 Arctic Townee 78 Arctqmys Jlavirenter 07, 91 Ardea Herodias 87 A rdeidw 87 Argillitie slate 113 Arionellus tri-punelalns 117, 141 Arkansas Flycatcher 80 Armell's Creek 33,79 Arrow Creek 124 Artemisia 100 Arvicola riparia 68,91 Assinaboines 11, 04 Astronomical observations 38-52 A thyris 1 13, 121, 133 planosiiletita 121 subtilita 121 Audubon's Warbler 74 Aulopora 113 Avocet 86 Ii. Pago. Baculites ovatus 101,120 Badger 00 Bad Lands 13,73 Baird's Sandpiper 80 Baker, Camp 07,09,74,114 Baker Lake Basin 116 Bald Butte 107 Bank Swallow 75 Barn Swallow 75 Bartramian Sandpiper -7 Bay Lynx 63 Bay-winged Bunting 77 Bear, Black 66 Cinnamon 66 Grizzly 66 Bear's Paw Mountains 55 Beaver 67 Creek 57 Beehive Geyser 20, 131 Benson's Ferry 57 Benton, Fort 9,12 Berthold, Fort, 11,71 Big Belt Mountains 114 Elk Creek 57 Spring Creek 14, 107 Timber Creek 57 Bighorn 70 Birds 72 Bismarck, Dak 11,32 Bison 71 Bitter Root Mountains 120 Black Bear --. 66 Bntte 100 Black Hills, Dakota 85 Black-billed Cuckoo 80 Blackbird, White- winged 78 Red-winged 78 Black breasted Woodpecker < s Blackhead, Lesser - 89 Black-tailed Deer 70 Creek 19 Black-throated Banting 78 Bluebird, Arctic 73 Western 7:: Blue Grouse 84 Blue Heron, Great, 87 Blue-headed Grakle 78 Blue-winged Teal 89 Bobolink 78 Bohemian Waxwing 76 Bonusa wmbellus umbelloides 85,92 Bos americanus 71,91 Bottler's ranch 17 148 INDEX. Page. Bovidw 71 Box Elder Creek 13,70,79 stat ion 13 Bozomau ...' 17,65,67 Brackett's Creek 16 Branta canadensis 88,92 Brewer's Sulphur .Spring 114 Bridger Creek 65 Mountains 16,6S,79 Pass 16,83,118 Bridge over Yellowstone 19,66,74 Broken Horn 26 Brook, Meadow 19 Browning, Captain 14 Brown Eat 68- Thrush 72 Bryozoan 113 Bubo Virginianus 81 Bucephala albeola 89,92 Buffalo 63,71 Creek 109 Heart Mountain 106 Mountain 71 Rapids 35 Bnfflehead S9 Buford,Fort 81 Banting, Black-throated 78 Burrowing Owl 86 Burnt Creek 57 Bu teo borealis 82 calurus 82,92 swainsoiii 82, 92 Buzzard, Turkey . 83 C. < 'ahnnospi:a bieohir 78 Gallista Deioegi 126 Camas Creek 114, 115 Camp Baker 15,115 Cooke 33, 56 Lewis 14,107 CampophyUum torquium 110, 121 Camptonectes beUistriata 121 extenualus 121 Canada Goose 88 Lynx 63 Canidce 63 Cants latrans ; 64,90 ocddentalis 63, 90 Canon of Coal Creek 17 Musselshell 84 Vellowstoue, Grand 22 Second 18 Capri mnlgidie 80 Carboniferous fossils 119 limestone 107, 110 rocks 133 Carcajou 65 Cardium speciosum 156 Carpodacus cassini 76, 91 Carroll 12,14,101 road 11, 15 Cascade Creek 21 Cassia's Purple Finch 76 Castle Geyser 26,132 Castor canadensis 67,91 Catbird 72 Catamount 63 Cathartcs aura 83 Cathirtida: 83 Cedar-bird 76 Centrocercus uropliasianus 85 CerHdw 69 Ccrrus canadensis 69, 91 hiacrotis 70,91 virginianus 70 Cenjle alcyon 92 (■halites 121 Character of Hopley's Hole Ill Chartitlriidic 85 Chaulelasmus sirepcrus tS Cherry Creek 57 Chestnut-collared Longspnr 76 Chickadee, Long-tailed 73 Mountain' 73 Chippy Western 77 Chondestes grammaca 78, 91 ebonites 129,133 granulifera 121,129 nwsoloba 121 subumboiia 129 Chordeiles virginianus henryi 80 Chrysomitris pinus 76 tristis 76 Cinclida: .' 72 Oinclus mexieaiius 72, 91 Cinnabar Mountain 18 Cinnamon Bear 66 Circus cya ueus hudsonius '. 81,92 Cisloihorus pahtstris 74,91 Claggett's 33,56 Clark's Crow 79 Clay-colored Sparrow 77 Cliff Swallow 75 Coal Creek 17 '' Coal Group " 122,134 Series" 119 Coccygus erythropUtalmus 80 Colaptes 80 auratus 81 mexivanus 81,92 Cold Spring Creek 57 Collurio ludorhiaiiiis e.reubitoroides 7d ( 'oiumbida- 83 Colymbidie 90 Colymbus torquatus 90 Common Dove 83 Common Wild Goose Bd Concretions at Crooked Creek 101 Cone Butte 71,82,104 Con topus borealis ^2 eirens richardsonii - 80,92 Cooper, Dr 84 Cooper'sHawk 82 Coot 88 Copperopolis 15, 113 INDEX. 149 Page. Copper-ore 114 Corals ___ 133 Corvidm 79 Corvus amcricaiius 79 oorase 79 Cottonwood Creek If,, 109 Coturniculus passcrinus pcrpaWdm 77 Coli/Jc riparia 75 Cow Bunting 73 Coyote 64 Crane, Sandhill S7 Cra&mtella jog radosa 100 Crater of Old Faithful 2(i Crazy Woman's Mountains 57 Crepicephalua (Loganellm) montaneneis 117, 141 Cretaceous clays 97 No. 4 90, 1:34 No.5 10 3 134 N0.6 X-27,'135 Crooked Creek 13 (54 jqi Crossbill, Red ..........'. ' 70 Crow 7rst ruction of geyser craters 00 Devil's Slide "_ 18 Workshop o :i Dinosaurs jj- DjPPer 72,89 Distances on Missouri River from Bismarck to Ben- ton r, : . Distribution of the formations 130 Diver, Great Northern an Pago. Dog River 55 Duhchonyx oryziroriiK 73 Dove, Common 83 Turtle ' 83 Downy Woodpecker g] Drift near Missouri River 101, 135 Duck, Gray gg Pin-tail _ _ . gg White-winged Surf 81) Duck Creek 57 route ]5 Duck Hawk gg Dusky Grouse kg E. Eagle, Golden 53 White-headed H3 Eastern Montana 89 East Gallatin Range us Edopistes mi uraturia 83 Elephant's Back yo KU< 0!) Creek, Big 57 Little 57 Range 113 Ellis, Fort 10, 130 Elotherium 1 10 Em igraut Peak 17, 82 Finpidunax piisiUu-i 92 Eporeodon no EremopUla alpestris leucolaima 74 Erithizon epixanihus 09,01 Euompnalus 121 Euspiza americana 78 F. Falco columbarius (.') richardsnnii -_ 82 communis amatum 82,92 laniarius polyagrus 82 sparverius 82, 92 Falcon, American Launer 82 Richardson's 82 Faleonidce 81 Falls of the Yellowstone 20 Lower 21,72 Upper 22,73 Fan Geyser 29 feldspar K15 Felidw 03 Felis concolor 03 Ferruginous Hawk s:s Fiber zibeihicim 68 Finch, Cassiu's Purple 70 Grass 77 Lark 78 Lazuli 7S Pine 70 Firehole River 25- Valley 66 Fish-hank 83 Flathead Creek 118, 123, 134 Pass 134 Pleshmau's Creek 57 150 INDEX. Page. Flicker 81 Flycatcher, Arkansas 80 Say's SO Forks of the Musselshell 83 Fort Benton 9 Berthold 11 Buford 11,81 Ellis 16,130 Peck 11,13,80 Shaw 11 Stevenson 11,65 Pierre Group 99 fossils of 101 Union Group 135 'Fossil Ferns" 102 Fish" 102 Fossils, iu vertebrate 9(5 vertebrate 91) Fox Hills Group 103,104,134 Fox, Kit 01 Prairie 64 Swift 64 Freeman , Maj. H 15, 7 6 FringiUida- ™ Fiiiiea americana - 83 Fitligula affirm 89 Fusus Galpinianus .103 G. Gad wall S3 Galeocerdo 112 Gallatin River, Middle Fork 5S Valley 15,120 Galliuago wilsonii 86 Game, destruction of 59 Gap, Judith 64,111 Gardiner's Falls 19 River --- 18,68 Springs 17,83,86 General conclusions 132 report - 9 Geological report 95 Geoihlypis Philadelphia maegiUirrayi 75 triehas 74,91 Gervillia erccta 121 aparsaUrata . , 121, 142 Geyser Basin, Lower 25, 80,86, 130 Upper 12,16,25,131 Geysers of Yellowstone Park 130 Giant 26,132 Giantess 26,131 Giant's Thumb IS Glaiteonome 129 Golden-crowned Thrush 74 Golden Eagle 83 Golden-winged Woodpecker 81, 95 Goniaphra melanoceplmla 91 Goosander 39 Goose, Canada 88 Common Wild - S3 Snow... S3 Gopher 68 Grakle, Blue-headed 78 Grand Canon of Yellowstone 22 Page. Grand Geyser 26,131 Granitic rocks 132 Grass Finch 77 Gray Duck 83 Jav 79 Wolf 63 Great Blue Heron Horned Owl SI Northern Diver 90 Yellowshanks 87 Grebe, Horned 90 Pied-billed 90 Greene, F. Y 9 Green-winged Teal 89 Grinnell, George Bird 9, 62, 97 Grizzly Bear 66 Gros Ventres of the Prairie 64 Grotto Geyser 25,132, Ground Squirrel, Missouri 67 Richardson's 67 Grouse, Blue 84 Dusky 84 Rocky Mountain Ruffed Sage - ; > Sharp- tailed 65 Gniidir s7 Gnts canadensis 87,92 Grgphaa 112,122 planoconrcra 121, 142 Gulch, Emigrant 45 Gull, Ring-billed 90 Gttlo hiscns 90 H. Hddrosaurns 125, 135 Haliaetus leucocephahis B3 Hancock, Mount 20 Hare, Prairie 66 Harporhynchus rufits 73 Harris's Woodpecker SO Hawk, Cooper's - 82 Duck 82 Ferruginous 33 Fish - 83 Marsh 81 Red-tailed - 82 Rough-legged 83 Sharp-shinned 82 Sparrow 82 Swainsou's 82 Western Red-tailed 82 Hayden, Dr. F. V 9,18 Haymaker's Creek 15, 111 Height of Lower Falls - 22 plateau at Carroll 100 Uppper Falls 21 Helena, Mon t 13, 15 Helena road. 100 Heron, Great Blue 87 Kesperomys 67 leucopus sonorit nsis 68,91 Hills, Sweet Grass Tl Hintndinidir T5 Hirundo horreorum 75. 9 1 thalansina 75,91 INDEX. 151 Page. Hooded Merganser - 89 Hopley's Hole 15,111 Hornblende 105 Horned doe-antelopes barren 70 G rebe 90 Owl.'Great 81 Lark 74 Hot Spring Creek 57 House Mouse 08 Wren, Western 73 Humphreys, Mount 14,20 Hystri&dce 69 I. Icteria virens 75 Icteridce 78 Icterus bullocMi 91 Idaho Desert 21 Inoceramwt 101, 103, 122 lenmlineapus 101 Jamestown, Dak 76 Jay, Gray 79 Long-crested 79 Jay Creek 29 Jones, Captain 9, 18 Judith Bad Lauds 55,124 Basin 9,14 Gap 14,64,111 Mountains 14,70,87,103 River 14,64 Jumping Mouso 68 Jwnco oregonus 77,91 Jurassic 119, 133 K. Killdeer Plover 85 Kingbird 80 Kingfisher 80 Kit Fox 64 L. Lagomys princeps 91 Lake, Yellowstone 24 Lamna 112 Laniidce 76 Lanuer Falcon, American 82 Laridw 90 Lark Finch 78 Lark, Horned 74 Shore 74 Western Meadow 78 Larus delawaremia 90,92 Lazuli Finch... w 78 Least Sandpiper 86 Lcporidie 69 Ltpns artemisia 69 hairdi 91 campestris 69 Lesser Blackhead S9 Yellowlegs 87 Letters of transmittal 9,62,96 Lewis, Camp , ,..,.., 14, 107 Pa;;.-. Lewis' Woodpecker 8 1 Liberty Cap 18 Lion, Mountain 63 l.iopislliu(( gnid In ) ii iidn In 103, 126 List of Mammals and Birds 63 Little Belt Mountains 14,84,111 Crooked Creek 13,72,80,101 Missouri 65 Rocky Mouutaius 33, 127 Rocky Creek 34,128 Timber Creek 57 Trout Creek 109 Lobipcs hypcrborcns 86 Long-billed Curlew 87 Marsh Wren 74 Long-crested Jay 79 Longspur, C'best nut-collared 76 Macco wn's 77 Long-tailed Chicadee 73 Loou 90 Louisiana Tanager 75 Lower Falls 73 Loxia currirostra americana 76, 91 Lucina occidentals 101 ventrieosa 101 Ludlow, Edwin 10 Col. Win 8,62,96 Lunatia coneinna 103,126 Lutra canadensis 65 Lynx, Bay 63 Cauada 63 Lynx canadensis 63,90 rufus 63,90 M. Maccown's Longspur 77 Mackinac boat 9, 33, 35 Mactra sp 101 maia 103,144 Warreniana 103,126 Madison River, East Fork of 25 Magpie 7 Slictopora in-. \\„ Storm on Mount Washburne ;i0 Page. Streptorhynchus 133 crassus 121 Keokuk 110 StrigidcB - 81 Slurnella magna negleeta 78 Suggestion relative to National Park 36 Sulphur Springs 23 Summer Yellowbird 74 Summit Creek 57 Surf Dnck, White-winged 89 Surface-drift in Judith Gap Ill Surnia alula hudsonia 92 Swallow, Bank 75 Barn 75 Cliff 75 Violet-green 75 Swan, Trumpeter 88 Sweet Grass Creek 57 Hills 71,79 SwiftFox 64 SylvieolidcB 74 Syringopora mult-attenuata 108, 121 T. Tamias quadrivitiatus 66,90 Tanager, Louisiana 75 Tanagridce 75 Tapes montanensis 103, 143 Taxidea americana 66 Teal, Blue-winged 89 Green-winged . 89 Tellina (Arcopagia) subulata 126 Utahensis 126 Tellina seitula 103,126 Telltale 87 Terebratula 107 Tertiary 115,135 fossils 116 Tetons 20 Tetrao obscuriis 84,92 Tetraonidai 84 Thistlebird 76 Thomomys talpoidis _.._ 68,91 Thompson, Lieut. R. E 9,55 Thomson, Prof. James 98 Thracia ( Corimya ) Grin nellii 126, 144 Thrasher 72 Three Forks 116 Peaks 31 Thrush, Brown 72 Golden-crowned 74 Olive-backed 72 Thymallus 114 Timber Wolf 63 Titlark 74 Totanus flavipes 87, 92 melanoleucus 87,92 semipalmatus 86,92 solitarius 87,92 Tower Creek 20,81 Falls 20 Trachyte 105,108 Trail Creek 17, >4 Tree Sparrow 77 155 Page. Trilobites 117 Tringa bairdii 86,92 mimitilla 86 Tringoides macularius 87 Trionyx 125 Troglodytes a'edon partma nni 73, 91 Troglodytida' 73 Trout 20 Trout Creek 107 Trumpeter Swau 88 Turban 27 Turdidce 72 Turdits migratorius 72 sivainsoni 72,91 Turkey Buzzard 83 Turk's Head 27 Turtle Dove 83 Turtles 116 Twining, Capt.Win. J 9 Tyrannidm , 80 Tyrannus carolinensis 80,92 verticalis 80 U. United States Boundary Commission 9 Union Pass 134 Umos 135 Upland Plover 87 Upper Falls of the Yellowstone 72 Geyser Basin 87,131 Ursidw 66 Ursus amcricanus 66, 90 horribilis 66,90 V. Vandalism of visitors to National Park 26 raniloropsis Tonmeyana 145 Veiperfflio luoifugus 90 yumanensis 90 Violet-green Swallow 75 Vulpes alopex macrurus 64 velox 64 W. Warbler, Audubon's 74 Western Mourning 75 Yellow 74 Wanton destruction of curiosities in Geyser Basins 36 Warm Spring Creek 33 Washburne Mountain 21 Washings at Emigrant Gulcb 31 Water Ouzel 72 Waxwing, Bohemian 76 Western Bluebird 73 Chippy 77 House Wren 73 Meadow Lark 78 Mourning Warbler 75 NightHawk 80 Red-tail Hawk 82 Song Sparrow 77 White-footed Mouse 68 Page. Western Woodchuck 67 Wood Pe wee 80 Whistling of Elk 09 White Pelican 89 White-crowned Sparrow 77 White-footed Mouse, Western 68 White-headed Eagle 83 White-rumped Shrike 76 White-tailed Deer 70 Creek 115 White-wingod Blackbird 78 Surf Duck 89 Whitfield, E.P '..... 8,96 WildCat 63 Widgeon 88 Wild Goose 83 Willet 86 Wilson's Snipe 86 Wolf, Gray 63 Prairie 64 Timber 63 Wolfing 64 Wolf Point 12,80,85 Wolverene 65 Wood.W. H 10 Woodchuck, Western 67 Woodpecker, Black-breasted 81 Downy 81 Golden-winged 81 Harris's 80 Lewis's 81 Red-headed 81 Red-shafted 81 Wren, Long-billed Marsh 74 Rock 73 Western House 73 Wyoming 61 Y. Yellow slates underlying Tertiary 116 Lake 24 Yellow Warbler 74 Yellowbird 76 Yellowbird, Summer 74 Yellow-breasted Chat 75 Yellow-haired Porcupine 69 Yellowlegs, Lesser ,. 87 Yellowshanks, Greater 87 Yellowstone Mountains 57 Park 9,63,66,79,84,87 River 11,79,82,86 Yellowthroat, Maryland 74 Yellow-winged Sparrow 77 Z. Zaphrentis 133 centralis 108,110,113 Zapus liudsonius 68,91 Zencedura carolinensis . . 83 Zonotrichia leucophrys 77,91 intermedia 91 Zoological report 60