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From a Photo by W. Lawrence. 
 
HOLIDAY HAUNTS 
 
 ON THE 
 
 WEST COAST OF CLARE, 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 BY 
 
 H. B. H. 
 
 LIMERICK : 
 
 G. McKern & Sons, Printers & Publishers, 
 113, George-street. 
 
 1891. 
 
Microfilm Negative # _ 
 
 Humanities Preservation Project 
 
V\a4 ^ 
 
 MAT 13th, 1891, 
 
 TO THE MEMORY OF MY BROTHER, 
 
 G. A. H., 
 
 THIS VOLUME 
 is 
 
 Bffecttonatels 2>eMcate£> 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 Voh-gg a 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY f>f ikUMQI& 
 
Wt- 
 
 GEORGE PHILIP & SOL 
 
JtNDON & LIVERPOOL. 
 

HOLIDAY HAUNTS ON THE WEST COAST OF CLARE 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 “ Pleasant sea ; 
 
 So boundless or so beautiful as thine, 
 
 The eagles’ vision cannot take it in, 
 
 The lightning’s wing, too weak to sweep 
 its space, 
 
 Sinks half way o’er it like a wearied bird ; 
 
 It is the mirror of the stars, where all 
 Their hosts within the concave firmament, 
 
 Gay marching to the music of the spheres, 
 
 Can see themselves at once.” 
 
 Campbell . 
 
 TTNYONE appreciating wild natural 
 scenery as well as having a love for 
 w r ide expanse of ocean, when viewed from 
 the shore, should visit the Avest coast of 
 Ireland to enjoy it. We have no doubt 
 there are a large number who admire the 
 sea to look at, and bathe in, but who have 
 a decided objection to trust themselves 
 afloat on its surface for any lengthened 
 period. And no wonder such antipathy 
 
to a “life on the ocean wave” should 
 exist in some minds, when, being “ rocked 
 in the cradle of the deep,” is, in their 
 experience, unhappiness and discomfort. 
 However, nearly everyone enjoys a visit 
 to the sea-side — indeed there is a yearning, 
 almost in every breast, we think, when the 
 summer sun warms the earth, and when 
 hud has developed into blossom, and our 
 own hearts being tuned in harmony with 
 the “voice of the waves,” to seek repose 
 and enjoyment on the sea-sliore. And in 
 no other part of the “ Green Isle,” in our 
 opinion, is there so much of precipitous 
 cliff, hold headland, and expansive sea- 
 view, as may he seen by those who traverse 
 the coast from Loophead to Blackhead in 
 the County Clare. Of course anyone 
 having a fancy for umbrageous foliage, 
 sylvan groves, and lovely parterre, must 
 seek elsewhere for such, because trees and 
 shrubs are rare along this coast, except in 
 sheltered glens, or other suitable situations. 
 Those trees and shrubs which venture to 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 3 
 
 show their heads above a wall, or other 
 protection, are cut down just as neatly as 
 if a shears were applied to them, and by 
 the force of the prevailing wind, which 
 being westerly, and owing also to the 
 peculiar atmosphere at the sea coast, are 
 bent so much landward, that the supersti- 
 tious mind is disposed to attribute the 
 deformity to those fairy elves who are 
 said to gambol on shrub and tree at night 
 under “ the light of the moon.” 
 
 We have no doubt whatever that 
 those who live inland, and who could say 
 in the language of the Poet 
 
 Instead of shores where ocean beats, 
 
 I hear the ebb and flow of streets ; 
 
 and who, being satiated with all that is 
 artificial in life, and desiring change of 
 scene, should seek repose from the round 
 of gaiety which is, as a rule, characteris- 
 tic of Town life, aw r ay at the sea-coast. 
 And no tour, in our opinion, is so attrac- 
 tive as that which embraces the western 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 I 
 
 shores where one is not usually trammelled 
 by those rigid rules of etiquette which 
 influence our movements so much at home. 
 Unfortunately, however, the convention- 
 alities of home life are too often carried 
 with us, to our temporary residence by the 
 sea, which often is the cause of much 
 discomfort, and detracts from one’s enjoy- 
 ments considerably. So, dear reader, just 
 imagine by the action of some kind fairy, 
 that we are entering Kilkee, in the County 
 Clare; what a surprise when this natural 
 picture is presented before us ! Here, 
 sheltered in a hay, of horse-shoe shape, on 
 the shores of the Atlantic, a sort of recess 
 in the coast, is nestled this delightful 
 watering place, a maritime Town without 
 the shipping, or the manufacturing enter- 
 prises, which are such objectionable 
 features in places where one wishes to he 
 free from worry, excitement, and hustle. 
 Kilkee has its fashionable quarter like 
 other places — its “ Esplanade,” and “West 
 End ; ” and for those who like natural 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 S 
 
 curiosities, there arc the “Puffing Hole,” 
 and a curious rock formation, known as 
 the “ Amphitheatre.” Caves also of great 
 magnitude, extend very far inland under 
 the cliffs, access to which is obtained 
 from the sea, in those canvas-covered boats 
 called canoes, which are the safer craft in 
 which to venture out in this tempestuous 
 coast. There are also the “Arch Cliff,” 
 and other natural objects, for any one who 
 enjoyes such scenery, to gratify one’s taste. 
 However, we do not particularize those as 
 an attraction or as an incentive to anyone 
 to visit Kilkee We take a higher ground, 
 namely, for the sake of those seeking 
 health and recreation, and therefore present 
 the west coast in “ Nature’s dress ” of wide 
 ocean, bold rock, high cliff, with Nature’s 
 green carpet laid down, up to the summit 
 of these big elevations, which give such 
 wild grandeur to the locality. The health- 
 giving breeze wafted to these shores is its 
 best recommendation, it is borne across 
 thousands of miles of ocean purified, and 
 
6 
 
 KILKEE. 
 
 charged with the saline properties which 
 give it its pungency, and its vitalising 
 power, and which contact with the sea only 
 can impart to it ; and having neither land, 
 house, island, swamp, or any impurities, 
 to taint, or intercept its progress, we have 
 air the purest and most invigorating that 
 it is possible to breathe, and which is just 
 as cooling as it is invigorating in the hot 
 days of summer, fanning one’s face when 
 reclining, or w'alking on those grand old 
 cliffs, which are such remarkable features 
 in Kilkee, as well as in other parts of the 
 coast scenery. The sea also comes to this 
 western coast tempered by the gulf stream, 
 making it so pleasant for those “ shorn 
 lambs” who bathe in its waters. In 
 Kilkee also are attractions such as we 
 value in home life, namely — imposing 
 mansions, well-kept, and extensive hotel 
 establishments, lodgings of every decrip- 
 tion, to suit “all sorts and conditions of 
 men,” public baths not surpassed by any 
 other sea-side resort in Ireland, bathing 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 7 
 
 machines, large and well supplied shops 
 and warehouses, where the best goods are 
 obtainable and, as a result of this co- work- 
 ing of art and nature, we find Peer and 
 Peasant, and, indeed, all classes, from far 
 and near, coming to this pretty sea-side 
 retreat in the season, in tlieir thousands : 
 and when the railway communication is 
 fully developed the influx of the pleasure- 
 seeking population will, no doubt, be 
 considerably increased. The noble sandy 
 beach in Kilkee is a picture to gaze upon 
 with delight, when at ebb tide young and 
 old crowd its smooth strand, to play games, 
 and run races, on foot as well as astride, on 
 those “ four ’’-footed donkeys which are 
 such a feature in holiday life in Kilkee. 
 And when the tide is full in, or flowing, 
 we have on such occasions the sea almost 
 alive with human beings buffeted by the 
 waves, romping and plunging beneath the 
 surface, like so many porpoises. The 
 scene is varied by the cries of alarm from 
 the timid adults, as well as from nervous 
 
8 
 
 KILKEE. 
 
 children, but the joy ©us shouts and 
 laughter of others, who seem to take to 
 the water like amphibious animals, drown 
 all other discordant cries. Pedestrians 
 have in the neighbourhood inducements to 
 exercise, with “ George’s ” Head on one 
 hand, and Look-out Hill on the other side 
 of the hay, with other cliffs besides, extend- 
 ing right and left to climb. There is 
 everything connected with the scenery 
 acting as an incentive to live as much as 
 possible in the open air, alternately walk- 
 ing and resting on the grass-covered 
 slopes, or in some shady nook, or deep 
 recess of rock, finding solitude and repose 
 while the life-giving breeze inspires one 
 with animation, paints the pale cheek with 
 the colour of the rose, gives vigour to 
 the weak limb, and energy to the mind, 
 which toil, trouble, and worry have im- 
 paired. Numbers who have come to the 
 west coast with “ hearts beating funeral 
 marches to the grave,” testify that they 
 have returned to their homes after having 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 9 
 
 had these solemn notes changed into songs 
 of rejoicing for restored health: hut to 
 realise all the pleasures, and derive all the 
 benefits one is capable of enjoying from a 
 residence at Kilkee, or elsewhere, we must 
 make the best use of time and opportunity, 
 allowing none of the ordinary troubles of 
 life to reach us, and not permitting any- 
 thing more serious to disturb “the even 
 tenor of our ways ” than the splash of the 
 wave, or the moaning of the wind, or the 
 laughter of children. It is only when w r e 
 dissociate ourselves from the worrying 
 cares of business and professional duties, 
 that we are ever able to derive any real 
 advantage from our holiday trips, or sea- 
 side residence. If we carrv our troubles 
 into hours set apart for recreation, better 
 remain at home altogether, and drop 
 quietly into an “ untimely grave.” To 
 regain health, and to build up strength of 
 body for future use and action, change of 
 scene is not sufficient — change of habit 
 also is necessary. There must be relaxa- 
 
10 
 
 K fl. 'K KK. 
 
 tion for mind as well as for body : the 
 sun-batli and air-bath are as essential as 
 arc the tepid, sponge, or open sea bathing. 
 And giving all due attention to such 
 matters, and associating with suitable 
 companions, who have sympathies in 
 common, and tastes in harmony with one’s 
 own — not tastes or habits that are vicious 
 or depraved. We have those natural aids 
 to health, to enjoy which a wise and merci- 
 ful Providence has provided so lavishly in 
 those health-giving regions. 
 
 We are aware that in every gathering 
 at the sea-side there are those who have the 
 “will and the way” to take excursions, 
 and visit distant objects, and places of 
 interest, in a wider area than that which 
 the scenery in the immediate locality 
 affords, and should such follow us on 
 our route along the coast, taking ex- 
 cursions inland occasionally, they shall 
 have, we think, some enjoyable trips to 
 make. We know also that men assemble 
 at the sea-side who have different tastes, 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 11 
 
 and who delight in the study of Botany, 
 Geology or other kindred pursuits, and 
 for such there is ample scope in our 
 western sea-hoard. The hills and valleys 
 
 v 
 
 are the habitat of plants, which are rare 
 in other parts of Ireland, and, indeed, we 
 believe, not to be found at all, except on 
 the slopes of the Alps ; we have rocks and 
 stones representing different periods of the 
 world’s formation, and sand, gravel, peat, 
 and clays, also which the Geologist may 
 investigate ; the followers of Izak Walton 
 have in the fresh water lakes and streams 
 an opportunity to “ ply the gentle art,” 
 and should others desire to entice the 
 larger fish which are so abundant in the 
 deep sea, the local fishermen all along the 
 coast are ever ready to hire their canoes 
 for a few day’s fishing in the Atlantic, 
 and to assist one in every way to capture 
 the finny tribe; or sitting on the rocks, 
 with rod and bait, there is enjoyment for 
 those who admire such pastime. How- 
 ever, when the wind is high and the waves 
 
12 
 
 KILKEE. 
 
 strong, caution is necessary, as the waves 
 may at any moment become one’s winding 
 sheet. In the pursuit of pleasure, as well 
 as in every-day life, there are risks and 
 danger to life and limb, so that prudence 
 should guide our actions at the sea-side as 
 well as everywhere else. And these plants, 
 and flowers of the sea, which are commonly 
 called sea-weed, growing on the rocks, as 
 well as those cast ashore, torn up from 
 the sea -forests, down deep below, which 
 grow so luxuriantly, are interesting studies; 
 and not omitting the “living things” which 
 adhere to the rocks, and are met with, when 
 the tide recedes, in little pools, and tiny 
 lakes on the shore, all of which are curious 
 objects ; and much information and a large 
 amount of enjoyment is experienced in 
 watching their movements. The Anti- 
 quarian also has in the ancient castles, 
 moats, raths, and mounds, subjects to 
 investigate, and local traditions to enquire 
 into — and, in fact, for everyone, there is 
 something to admire, and be interested in. 
 
TCILKEE 
 
 13 
 
 An excursion on foot may he made to 
 Dunlicky Castle, on the coast, near Kilkee, 
 and northward to Baltard Castle, and 
 Doonbeg Strand and Castle — all interest- 
 ing old ruins, each of course with a history 
 and traditions of its own. 
 
 Carrigaholt Castle is a much longer 
 distance away, and would be too long a 
 walk for anyone except an athlete. Carrig- 
 aholt, or Carrigaholty, means the “ Town 
 of the rock of the fleet,” and its origin is 
 traceable to the anchorage for vessels, 
 under a rock, on the shore. This old 
 Castle is another of those structures which 
 are so numerous in the County Clare, and 
 which, like all other ancient buildings 
 of the same type and character, has a 
 history which would fill a bulky volume 
 to narrate. A mansion, quite close to it, 
 is inhabited by one of the local gentry, 
 and a dismantled battery not far away. 
 A “ Patron’s ” or Saint’s well is also near 
 on the shore, and as the fishermen passed in 
 their canoes with nets piled up, rowing 
 
14 
 
 KILKEE 
 
 to their fishing grounds, each might be 
 observed taking off his hat, with all due 
 reverence, as if engaged in prayer, no 
 doubt seeking protection from the angry 
 waves, as well as asking for success in 
 their fishing operations. To us it is a 
 source of deep regret that all old ruins 
 like Carrigaholt Castle, in fact no matter 
 of what class or style, are not taken charge 
 of by the Government, and preserved 
 for posterity as “ National Monuments.” 
 Lapse of years and the influence of wind 
 and weather are making sad havoc of 
 many of them. As time rolls, all these 
 old ruins, moats, stone circles, ancient 
 places of sepulture, and other historical 
 sites, will be thought more of than we, of 
 the present day, think of them, and there- 
 fore these ancient records of the work of 
 the past ages should he restored, and 
 maintained, if for no other object than to 
 illustrate the architecture of remote ages, 
 for the benefit of future generations. It 
 is not at all improbable that owing to the 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 15 
 
 apathy of the men of the present era that 
 our successors will censure us just as much 
 as we condemn those who in preceeding 
 ages disfigured and destroyed so many of 
 those abbeys and castles whicli even in 
 their ruinous state are beautiful. The 
 formation of antiquarian associations in 
 modern days is evidence that we are now 
 endeavouring, in some measure, to atone 
 for past neglect, in arresting the progress 
 of decay of a few of the most interesting 
 of the number remaining. All interested 
 in antiquarian research, we trust, will not 
 rest satisfied until the study of antiquarian 
 subjects is enforced in our National Schools 
 and Colleges, and that honours, rewards, 
 and prizes be given as an incentive to 
 teacher and pupil alike, with a view to 
 preserve all ancient structures and places 
 of interest, and by such means prevent 
 acts of vandalism which are so common 
 among the thoughtless, and which are not 
 consistent with modern ideas of civilization. 
 Here and there, as we proceed along the 
 
16 
 
 KILKEE. 
 
 coast from Kilkee to Loophead, are so 
 many objects worth noting that one should 
 not he in a hurry ; it is essential, in order 
 to realize the beauty of the surrounding 
 objects, to pause often and survey sea, sky 
 and land, and with every inspiration, as it 
 were, fill one’s mind with something to 
 carry away to dwell upon, and think of, 
 and talk of at our own fireside, and among 
 one’s friends and acquaintances, in places 
 remote, perhaps from these scenes of 
 holiday life. There are many curious 
 twistings and turnings of the coast to be 
 observed as one drives along, but of all 
 the remarkable features of coast-line there 
 is nothing to surpass the interesting sight 
 at the “ Bridges of Ross.” Here, with the 
 sea rushing beneath, we stand upon arches 
 which the mind of man never designed, 
 and which the hand of man never formed ; 
 beholding such natural, and yet art-like, 
 formation, one is lost in amazement. 
 
 Continuing our journey we reach 
 Loophead, where Ave find ourselves in the 
 midst of such a wide expanse of sea, and 
 
 A 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 17 
 
 vast extent of coast line, that our feelings 
 are excited to the highest pitch of admira- 
 tion; on the one hand the estuary of the 
 Shannon is in view for miles inland — a 
 river, no douht, it is called, hut in our 
 opinion, owing to its great depth, and its 
 vastness in every way to Foynes Island, 
 it would he more fitly described by calling 
 it an arm of the sea — and stretching far 
 away is the “ broad Atlantic ” — 
 
 “ Thou huge heaving sea, 
 
 Thou art speaking to me ; 
 
 Ever strong, ever free, 
 
 Is the voice of the sea : 
 
 Ever rising with power, 
 
 To the call of the hour, 
 
 Is the swell of thy tides as they flow.” 
 
 And across the mouth of the Shannon the 
 coast of the kingdom of Kerry is visible, 
 with its headlands, capes, and bays, and 
 standing above all, on the coast line, are 
 the Brandon Mountains, near which lived 
 the saint who gave them his name, and to 
 whom tradition assigns the honour of being 
 the first navigator, from the old world, 
 
18 
 
 KILKEE. 
 
 who touched the shores of the new : and 
 more inland still, the “ Reeks,” rising from 
 near Killarney, lift their heads above the 
 neighbouring hills — each and all a picture 
 to admire, and a prospect to enjoy, to 
 which “ distance lends enchantment to the 
 view.” At one^Teet are rugged rocks, 
 and deep indentions of coast, with the sea 
 seething beneath, through a chasm which 
 separates the mainland from a small island 
 opposite, which either the action of the 
 mighty Atlantic wave, or some upheaval 
 of nature, cast adrift in ages past. This 
 wide gulf, a local gentleman attempted to 
 span with a bridge, in order to obtain ac- 
 cess to the island, hut owing to the 
 impracticability of obtaining a landing on 
 the opposite shore of the island in order to 
 work from both sides, he was obliged to 
 conduct his operations from the mainland 
 only, which increased his difficulties to 
 such an extent that the work was aban- 
 doned when the bridge had been built 
 about half way across and there it is, 
 
KILKEE. 
 
 19 
 
 jutting out, as it were, in micl air, crumb- 
 ling fast to decav, and the little island 
 remains, as we believe as it always was, in- 
 accessible to man or beast. Standing 
 beside this fragment of man’s ingenuity, 
 and looking across at the almost perpendi- 
 cular sides of this derelict island rock 
 opposite, and bending oyer to catch a view 
 of the rushing waters down deep below, as 
 it beats against the cliff, and taking in at 
 a glance the great height of those cliffs at 
 both sides, and the loneliness of the 
 situation, one shudders at the sight. The 
 same ingenious gentleman utilised a 
 natiwal gallery, under an overhanging 
 cliff to obtain access to a shelving rock to 
 which he had earth conveyed, and con- 
 verted this dreary spot into a miniature 
 pleasure ground, for his amusement, 
 descent to which he contrived by placing a 
 step-ladder down a steep cavity in the 
 earth, from which this natural gallery 
 branches off towards the shelving rock ; 
 hut like everything else that man contrives 
 
20 
 
 LOOPHEAD. 
 
 and constructs, time obliterates it sooner 
 or later, if allowed to remain uncared for, 
 and so it is in this particular place the 
 hand of time has left little or no trace of 
 the garden, and alas ! lie who planted and 
 tended it is not now alive to restore it to 
 the state it was formerly in. However, a 
 descent into the cavity, and a visit to this 
 unique attempt at gardening “ under diffi- 
 culties,” will amply repay one for the 
 trouble and time expended. The light- 
 house at Loopliead is a remarkable object, 
 standing high amid such solitude; owing 
 to the courtesy of the keeper we were per- 
 mitted to view the interior w hich afforded 
 us much pleasure. Anyone who visits 
 Loophead should inspect the mechanism 
 which flashes the light across the w aters, 
 from the lantern above, proving a useful 
 guide to those mariners wdio frequent this 
 exposed coast. Loophead light-house is a 
 picture of neatness and good order, hut the 
 isolated position of those who tend and care 
 it, and the dull monotonous lives they 
 
L00PHEA1). 
 
 21 
 
 lead, claim our sympathy. The Govern- 
 ment, or some department of the State, or 
 benevolent person, or institution, should 
 provide hooks or literature for the keeper 
 and his assistants to relieve the dreary 
 hours in the long days of winter and early 
 spring-time. 
 
 Loophead, like all other parts of Ire- 
 land, is associated with legends and stories, 
 which amuse if they do not instruct : And 
 after all is not this legendary lore a harm- 
 less thing — no doubt it is not what the 
 practical mind would like to dwell upon, 
 and some may scoff at it, but even in this 
 a<?e we are not without a taste for the 
 sentimental as well as the practical, how- 
 ever there are minds that will not see good 
 in anything except it is viewed from “ the 
 matter of fact” side. Everything to them 
 has to be proved like a problem in Euclid ; 
 all those objectors forget that the legends 
 
22 
 
 LOOPHEAl). 
 
 and stories which used to delight and 
 enthrall our youthful imagination, 
 
 When o’er all there hung the shadow of a fear, 
 
 A sense of mystery the spirit daunted, 
 
 And said, as plain as whisper in the ear, 
 
 The place is haunted, 
 
 have come down to us from a time when, 
 although it could he said of the “ dark 
 age” just as well as when the poet penned 
 the lines — 
 
 We find 
 
 Books in the running brooks, Sermons 
 In stones, and good in everything. 
 
 they had not among them men capa- 
 ble of finding any lesson, such as we 
 discover now, in the rivers and brooks, 
 meandering through valley and plain ; and 
 although having stones and rocks in abun- 
 dance, such as we have, they had not, as 
 in our generation, a Hugh Miller to read the 
 history of creation in the rocks, and make 
 them speak to us as in a volume of the 
 wonderful operations of nature such as he 
 revealed to us in “ The Testimony of the 
 Rocks,” that work of his intellect which 
 
LOOPHEAD. 
 
 23 
 
 lias become a standard authority for Geolo- 
 gists in the present day ; and still applying 
 the Poet’s metaphor, although having good 
 in everything, then, as well as now, the 
 learned or the learning were not forth- 
 coming to discover the good amid the 
 ignorance in which the world was sunk, 
 and which subsequently came to light, 
 and is being developed from time to time 
 since Christianity has been exerting its 
 civilizing influence. There were no print- 
 ed books, because the age of printing was 
 long subsequent to the period referred to, 
 no literature such as we have in our time, 
 and so “ gross darkness ” prevailed, and 
 it came to pass that the memory became 
 the depository of knowledge, such as it 
 was ; passing events had to be stored up 
 in the mind, and all incidents, social, poli- 
 tical, and historical, were treasured in it, 
 and were transmitted from “ father to son,” 
 so that the mind or memory in those days 
 had to discharge the duty which the dis- 
 covery of printing has enabled us to 
 
24 
 
 LOOPHEAJ). 
 
 employ books for in modern days. And 
 thus the imagination, ever fertile, magni- 
 fied local squabbles into great battles, 
 pigmies grew to be giants, rocks and 
 stones, which were removed from one place 
 to another, or set up on end for some pur- 
 pose or other, by the ordinary means then 
 available, were said to be hurled fabidous 
 distances by the muscular energy of an 
 individual whom they called a “ giant.” 
 Even now, when we trust to the memory 
 too much, do we not find out how “ trea- 
 cherous ” it is, and how liable we are to 
 exaggerate as well as to “economize truth,” 
 and thus we can easilv understand how, in 
 the “dark ages,” fiction and fact were 
 blended, until fact became overlaid with 
 fiction to such a degree that the original 
 story was lost altogether almost, and thus it 
 happened fiction as a rule came to be our 
 inheritance. After all that can be said 
 against these legends there is really some 
 difficulty in ignoring them altogether since 
 our classical literature, to which we are so 
 
LOOPHEAD. 
 
 25 
 
 much indebted, is full of incidents, and 
 contains the history of heroes and heroines 
 whom we term “ mythical,” but which are 
 not less extraordinary than those legends 
 with which Loophead and nearly every 
 part of Ireland are identified. Now with 
 respect to Loopliead and its legends, it is 
 related that in years gone by, so remote 
 that the “oldest inhabitant” knows nothing 
 of the time or the date, some great North- 
 ern King or Prince, who was persecuted 
 by a woman, swift of limb and stout of 
 heart, sought flight from her southward, 
 and he thought in coming to the Countv 
 Clare, a place so remote in those days, he 
 would be safe from his peisecutor; but 
 not so, she found him out, and in des- 
 peration this King or Prince, hearing of 
 her close proximity, fled towards the Pro- 
 montory, now known as Loophead, never 
 thinking that the sea hemmed him in at 
 both sides so closely as it did; and coming 
 to the extreme point of the mainland he 
 saw this dreadful woman close behind 
 
26 
 
 LOOPHEAD. 
 
 him, and before him a high rock, which 
 was separated from the mainland by a 
 wide chasm, jumped across and safely 
 landed ; but his persecutor Avas not to he 
 outdone, so she, landing at his side almost 
 at the same moment, stimulated him to 
 retrace his steps, in order to baffle her, and 
 with one great leap, he got back again to 
 the mainland, but the woman, following 
 his example was precipitated into the sea 
 beneath, and thus escaped this great man 
 from the clutches of his tormentor ! From 
 this incident it is said Loop (corrupted 
 from Leap) Head derived its name, and 
 probably like all other legends, there is 
 a mixture of fact and fiction. It is not 
 at all improbable that in those days of 
 “wild revenge” some one had been driven 
 to such an extremity by his foe, that lie 
 had had no alternative but either to choose 
 between the sword, or taking his chance of 
 life by jumping across this chasm, which 
 separates the island from the mainland, 
 and adopted the latter alternative. 
 
L00PHEA1). 27 
 
 Having devoted as much time and 
 space as suited our purpose in exploring 
 the coast, we now seek for more variety 
 inland, and owing to its picturesqueness 
 select the neighbourhood of Kilrusli. The 
 run by road or rail presents nothing 
 unusual till approaching the town. Scat- 
 tery Island is observed about midway in 
 the Shannon, opposite Kilrusli, in which 
 island are objects of great historical, as 
 well as local interest, such as one of the 
 round towers that have puzzled the wise in 
 such matters for ages, and still the question 
 is not yet solved, namely, whether of 
 Christian or Pagan origin. There are also 
 on the island extensive and interesting 
 ecclesiastical ruins, in which, in remote 
 ages St. Sennan officiated, and whose 
 memory is still revered in having so many 
 of the people bearing the Christian name 
 of “ Sinon,” living in the neighbourhood. 
 In Kilrusli, and for miles inland, is the 
 Vandeleur property, which, no doubt, will 
 occupy a foremost place when the Land 
 
28 
 
 LOOPHEAD. 
 
 League operations have to be recorded in 
 history, it being the scene of one of the 
 greatest efforts made by the government 
 with a view to sustain the rights of the 
 owner of the soil. However, after evicting 
 a certain number of tenants, and demolish- 
 ing their homesteads, arbitration was pro- 
 posed by men of influence unconnected, 
 we believe, with the Land League, and 
 was accepted by the landlord, and now 
 peace reigns where the most intense ex- 
 citement and agitation at one time pre- 
 vailed. The mansion and demesne of the 
 Vandeleurs are adjoining the town of Kil- 
 rush, and Avere always occupied by former 
 owners ’til the present member of the 
 family succeeded his father, and now the 
 house is not inhabited by him, or any 
 member of the family. The town of Kil- 
 rush is not so prosperous as it should be 
 judging from its position in occupying the 
 best site in the river Shannon for commer- 
 cial purposes. At Cappa is a substantial 
 pier where steamers trading Avith Limerick 
 
GLXN. 
 
 29 
 
 load and discharge, and at present is the 
 principal place for visitors to Kilkee to 
 land and embark. A steamer plys between 
 Limerick and Kilrnsh all the year round, 
 taking goods and passengers, and in the 
 summer season a passenger boat runs in 
 connection with the railway to and from 
 Foynes harbour, and the West Clare Rail- 
 way extension is opening up the coast line 
 from Miltown Malbay to Kilkee and Kil- 
 rusli. On the shore, nearly opposite 
 Kilrush, in County Kerry, is Tarbert, with 
 lighthouse, and a few miles higher up the 
 river, on the same side, but in County 
 Limerick, Gil in Castle, the residence of the 
 Knight of Glin, a descendant of the 
 Geraldines of old, are picturesque places 
 and worth visiting, particularly as one is 
 brought into a region which fiction and 
 fact have made interesting all the world 
 over, owing to its being the scene of that 
 tragedy which gave Gerald Griffin such an 
 incentive to employ his great genius in 
 deliniating a heroine like “ Eily O’Connor,” 
 
30 
 
 GTTN. 
 
 and creatine such characters as “ Hardress 
 Cregan ” and “ Danny Man.” In the Clare 
 side of the river, a few miles east of Kil- 
 rusli, is Knock, at both sides of which are 
 the seats of a number of the county 
 families, whose demesnes are planted, 
 almost to the water’s edge, making the 
 landscape look beautiful as seen from the 
 river when passing in boat or steamer. 
 And in a graveyard near this interesting 
 hamlet rest the remains of Ellen Hanley, 
 the “ Eily O’Connor ” of Gerald Griffin’s 
 “ Collegians,” already referred to, whose 
 body was washed ashore in the neighbour- 
 hood, and over whose remains a local gen- 
 tleman had a headstone erected some years 
 ago, which has been disfigured by relic- 
 hunters taking away portions of it. We 
 should like to see another effort made to 
 erect a more substantial monument over 
 the “ Eily O’Connor ” whom our distin- 
 guished countryman has immortalised and 
 was himself horn not many miles distant 
 from the scene of the tragedy ; we think 
 
GLIN. 
 
 31 
 
 also some memorial of Gerald Griffin should 
 
 be erected in the City of Limerick, or on 
 
 the shore near Fovnes harbour. And not- 
 €/ 
 
 withstanding that his name will live in 
 “ song and story ” the public should mark 
 their appreciation of his genius by erecting 
 something in public on which to engrave 
 his name, as a further means of keeping 
 “his memory green ” in the hearts of the 
 people. Charles Lever, one of our great 
 novel-writers, spent some years of his life 
 in Kilrush, and enjoyed among others the 
 friendship of a well-known County Clare 
 gentleman, who was himself an inimitable 
 story-teller, and it is said many of the 
 humourous scenes in Lever’s works were 
 inspired by that gentleman, as well as by 
 a Catholic clergyman who lived in the 
 neighbourhood, and now both lay and 
 cleric, including the distinguished author 
 himself, have “ gone hence to be no more 
 seen, for ever.” It is not pleasant to have 
 to record the fact that, like Gerald Griffin, 
 Lever has no public monument in his 
 
32 
 
 LIMERICK 
 
 native land erected to his memory; and 
 what is still more. Iris ashes mingle with 
 that of strangers in a foreign country. 
 
 There also lived at Kilrush, a Mr. 
 Jackson, who as “Terry O’Driscoll,” in 
 his humorous sketches from week to 
 week, in some of the Dublin newspapers, 
 delighted the public of the past generation, 
 and, no doubt many, like ourselves, re- 
 member them also. 
 
 Limerick, which is 60 miles from 
 Loophead, is a port of some importance, 
 where the water rises at spring tides 23 
 feet, is a fine old historical city, and having 
 hurst the bonds in which the old fortified 
 walls held it for centuries, its enterprising 
 citizens carved out a new city, and now 
 the modern portion is far more extensive 
 than the old, and excels it in beauty ; it is 
 well built, and contains warehouses not 
 surpassed by any other town of its popula- 
 tion in the kingdom, and its fine range of 
 streets excite admiration. A visit to Lime- 
 
LIMERICK. 
 
 33 
 
 rick, by river, would not be the least in- 
 teresting of the many excursions one may 
 take during one’s holiday-life in Kilkee, 
 and at the same time enjoy the beautiful 
 scenery on the hanks of the Shannon. 
 Indeed it is unaccountable to us that no 
 special service of excursion steamers has 
 ever been established on the Shannon, like 
 that between Queenstown and Cross Haven 
 and also Galway Bay. Sheltered as Carrig- 
 aholt is, and so near Kilkee, we do not see 
 why a service of cars should not be estab- 
 lished between Kilkee and Carrigaholt, 
 and a steamer run from thence, calling at 
 Kilrush, Scattery Island, Ballylongford, 
 Tarbert and Glin, going and returning, — 
 with trips to Tralee, the Islands of Arran, 
 and along the coast to Galway, calling at 
 Liscannor, for the cliffs of Moher. A river 
 with such an expanse of water extending 
 so far inland as does the Shannon, having 
 a landscape so charming on both sides, 
 with the tidal portion of it washing the 
 shores of three counties in its progress to 
 
?A 
 
 LIMERICK. 
 
 the sea, should have a boat specially em- 
 ployed for pleasure in connection with 
 Kilkee; or with the Rail way open to Kilkee, 
 instead of Carrigaholt, make Cappa the 
 starting point. We see nothing to prevent 
 it except want of energy, or the absence of 
 enterprise. No doubt it might be said, a 
 boat already is plying between Kilrush and 
 Limerick, and another to Foynes in the 
 season ; but this is not sufficient for those 
 who come to Kilkee, nor for the tourists. 
 The fact is, the estuary of the Shannon, in- 
 cluding Scattery Island, Tralee Bay, and 
 the several interesting places along its 
 shores, are unknown parts to the great 
 majority of those who stay at the coast, 
 and as there is no safe anchorage in Kilkee 
 Bay for vessels to lie in, or other suitable 
 accommodation to land or embark, why 
 should not the next best thing he done, 
 namely, employ a steamer on the Shannon 
 exclusively for excursions, using one of the 
 several harbours on its shores for her des- 
 patch and arrival. It is all very well to 
 
LIMERICK. 
 
 35 
 
 have caves to visit and rocks to lounge on, 
 but it was never intended that pleasure- 
 seekers who can afford to pay for enjoy- 
 ment should he for ever burrowing in 
 caves, or like barnacles, stuck to the 
 rocks, when they come to Kilkec for a 
 holiday. Nature has done everything for 
 Kilkee, and art, too, has contributed much 
 towards making it the Queen of watering 
 places in Ireland; all now wanted is to 
 make a better use of the sea, and the river 
 Shannon, which is so conveniently situated 
 for pleasure in connection with the other 
 sea-side attractions. A great deal of the 
 success of those first-class watering places 
 and health resorts in England is due to 
 the facilities afforded for amusement and 
 recreation of every kind. We have also 
 wondered why it is that none of our steam- 
 ship owners will not do for Ireland, and 
 the British public generally, what is being 
 accomplished for Norway and other foreign 
 places, namely, to employ one or more 
 steamers to take passengers to see the hold 
 
30 
 
 LIMERICK. 
 
 headlands, steep cliffs, and the groups of 
 islands all around the Irish coast, with 
 the beautiful bays and harbours, which, 
 we think, are not surpassed in any other 
 part of the world, and with a landscape 
 also the most attractive that one could 
 desire to see ; and select, say the Shannon, 
 Galway Bay, Waterford, Queenstown, 
 Belfast and Dublin, as centres for such 
 vessels to anchor in, while the passengers 
 are enjoying a few days at the several 
 health-resorts, or travelling more inland to 
 see objects and places of interest which 
 everywhere abound. We venture to assert 
 that thousands seek in foreign countries, 
 enjoyment, which could be obtained nearer 
 home, at far less cost, who have never been 
 in Ireland ; and all this want of knowledge 
 of home life and scenery, is chiefly due to 
 the steam-ship owners, who entice the 
 people away to foreign coasts, by offering 
 trips at very reduced rates to the public. 
 One thing is certain, the brigand is un- 
 known in Ireland, so far as an attack on 
 
LIMERICK. 
 
 37 
 
 tourist or excursionist is concerned, and if 
 there is any sort of violence, bordering on 
 disorder, it does not alfect the pleasure- 
 seeker, but is confined to a sort of “ land 
 brigandage,” which, however unfortunate 
 for those directly interested, is in no sense 
 an obstacle to the free movements of 
 tourists and others, who need never he 
 afraid of having to pay a ransom while 
 travelling in Ireland, like many who are 
 obliged to submit to such an exaction 
 when on the continent, where they are 
 often seized and carried away captives ; 
 yet after all this the infatuation for foreign 
 novelties is so great that people venture 
 among a lawless race in the pursuit of 
 pleasure, instead of coming to Ireland of 
 which it might he said now as of old, 
 
 “ Blessed for ever is she who relied 
 On Erin’s honour and Erin’s pride.” 
 
 To all we have written much more might 
 he added relating to lvilkee and its beauti- 
 ful region ; we have touched the outlines 
 
38 
 
 SPANISH POINT. 
 
 only, and it is for those who have leisure 
 and greater ability, to fill up the details. 
 And now leaving Kilkee, with feelings of 
 regret, behind, to employ a nautical term, 
 steer northward, wending our way along 
 the coast, still keeping the wide ocean, 
 with old castles, and high cliffs, in view, 
 arriving after a pleasant time spent on 
 the journey, at another sea- side resort 
 known as 
 
 SPANISH POINT, 
 
 on the Malbay coast. Here also is an 
 extensive strand, with immense sand-hills 
 in the background, in the midst of which 
 are nestled handsome marine residences, 
 and in the neighbourhood are also the seats 
 of the local gentry as w ell as other sea- 
 side lodges, nearly all of which are 
 detached buildings, and being scattered 
 over a wide area add much to the beauty 
 of the landscape ; elsewhere, as in Kilkee, 
 for example, these sea-side houses are, as 
 a rule, built in Tow r n fashion, at Spanish 
 Point it is different, so that anyone wish- 
 
SPANISH POINT. 
 
 39 
 
 ing to live a secluded life may occupy a 
 house standing on its own grounds, ivitli- 
 out being brought into close proximity 
 with one’s neighbour. At Spanish Point 
 is a hotel of remarkably large dimensions 
 for a rural place, hut evidently the beauty 
 of its situation attracts many, or such 
 ample accommodation as this hotel affords, 
 need not have been provided. 
 
 Spanish Point, in Summer or Winter, 
 is certainly a charming place to reside in, 
 and having seen it under both aspects we 
 speak from experience : Mutton Island, 
 near the shore, adds to the interest of its 
 position; to it pic-nic parties often resort 
 in canoes or other suitable boats supplied 
 by the Handheld fishermen. In Tromora, 
 opposite Mutton Island, once resided a 
 branch of the great Clan O’Brien. Here, 
 in 1276, Donald, the son of Teige-a-luinn 
 O’Brien, lived, when Torlough fled to him, 
 from his uncle, King Brian and his allies, 
 who attacked the Palace of Torlough, at 
 Clonroad, near Ennis. Torlough, it ap- 
 
40 
 
 SPANISH POINT. 
 
 pears from the interesting paper in the 
 Antiquarian Journal, by T. Johnson 
 Westropp, M.A., “having won over and 
 formed an alliance with the sons of 
 O’Brien, of Tromora, the De Burglioes, 
 the O’Madigan’s, the O’Kelly’s, of Hy- 
 Many, and others marched with his force 
 to attack King Brian, and his allied army, 
 and having met in battle array, at Moy 
 Gressin in Upper Bunratty, Brian was 
 defeated : numbers fell on both sides : 
 among them was De Clare’s brother-in-law, 
 Patrick PitzMaurice. Bunratty Castle was 
 filled with lamentations, and each felt his 
 loss as if he had been their relative. King 
 Brian also had fled thither, and was at 
 dinner with De Clare in Bunratty Castle, 
 when the latter’s wife denounced the 
 unfortunate King as the sole cause of her 
 brother’s death, and got leave to hang the 
 King, who was seized at table, brought out 
 of the Castle, and dragged to death 
 between horses ; his head was cut off, and 
 the mangled body suspended by its feet 
 
SPANISH POINT. 41 
 
 from a gallows.” Happily we live in better 
 times, wlien equality before the law is the 
 rule; life and limb are respected, and 
 when, if the rights of property have to be 
 dealt with, the “voice” and the “pen,” 
 which are now “ mightier than the sword” 
 being the only weapons employed to effect 
 changes, which to accomplish in former 
 days, physical force would have been 
 resorted to. It is wonderful, judging from 
 all we read of olden times, what little 
 regard there used to be for human life. In 
 those days it would appear as if men’s 
 heads were disposed of with just as much 
 indifference as when we go through our 
 lields now, and with sickle in hand lop 
 the heads off those weeds which are so 
 objectionable to the agriculturist. Evi- 
 dently, in the “ good old times,” heads 
 counted to represent so many men, who 
 were moved about just like chessplayers 
 move their men in a game of chess. 
 
 The coast at Spanish Point is not so 
 elevated as that at Kilkee, but the sea 
 
42 
 
 SPANISH POINT. 
 
 beating on the shore is felt to he fiercer, 
 and the waves higher, because, probably, 
 being seen to greater advantage. Sitting 
 on a high elevation, and only able to ob- 
 serve the action of the waves down far 
 below, one is obliged to give greater scope 
 to the imagination, in measuring their size, 
 and estimating their force, but here at 
 Spanish Point, one standing on a lower 
 elevation, is able to observe the waves 
 striking on the rocks, and mounting up- 
 wards, in some instances high above the 
 position one occupies. It was to us a most 
 enjoyable occupation, when reclining on 
 the green turf on shore, in the company of 
 those near and dear to us, to watch the sea 
 tossing and foaming on the rocks extend- 
 ing a long distance seaward — just as if in 
 anger, at not being permitted to reach, 
 and submerge us in its vastness. Here, on 
 the shore, in a green field, are a number 
 of grass-covered mounds in a cluster, 
 which tradition assigns to be the graves of 
 the soldiers and sailors who were east 
 
SPANISH POINT. 
 
 43 
 
 ashore, when some vessels of the Spanish 
 Armada were wrecked in the neighbour- 
 hood, and from which event the place 
 derives its name. 
 
 At Freagh, a short distance from 
 Spanish Point, northwards, is another 
 “ puffing hole” of large extent, which, if 
 in operation when the sun is shining, pro- 
 duces beautiful rainbow" tints, and at each 
 “ puff” making a noise resembling that of 
 a distant cannonade. This “ puffing” 
 comes from a cavern under the cliff, 
 and is caused, no doubt, by the pressure 
 of the infiowdng wave on the air w'ithin 
 wdiich rushing out to escape produces 
 the effect described, at the same time 
 carrying a quantity of water in its 
 progress, which, being converted into spray 
 dashes all round, as w’ell as high up in the 
 air, producing the same effect that rain 
 does, so that a near approach will often 
 cause inconvenience. At about half-tide, 
 and when the weaves are strong, this “ puf- 
 fing” is at its best. The collecting and 
 
44 
 
 SPANISH POINT. 
 
 burning of sea-weed along the coast, and 
 converting it into kelp, which is shipped 
 from Sandfield to England, appears to be 
 a general practice and a profitable industry. 
 Spanish Point is in no sense a Town like 
 Kilkee. Miltown, a mile or so inland, is 
 the town proper, which is of considerable 
 size and importance, with its system of 
 water supply for domestic purposes, and 
 from which town all the supplies come 
 from baker, butcher, grocer, and other ware- 
 houses, which contribute to the feeding 
 and clothing of the multitude, and from 
 which the people of Spanish Point obtain 
 their supplies. In Miltown there are two 
 hotels, affording comfortable accommoda- 
 tion, and quite convenient enough to the 
 coast for tourists and others, it has its Bank 
 also for the transaction of monetary affairs. 
 Earther inland Mount Callau soars aloft, 
 and from its summit a wide extent of sea 
 and land may be seen. At Mount Callan 
 are glens and ravines well worth exploring, 
 and in one of which is the residence of a 
 
SPANISH POINT. 
 
 45 
 
 gallant gentleman who owns the country 
 for a considerable distance on all sides ; it 
 is beautifully situated at the base of the 
 mountain, and so closely surrounded by 
 hills, north, west and east, — that on ap- 
 proaching from the north, after leaving 
 the highway, over the principal carriage 
 drive, across a heath-covered valley of 
 great extent, and by a purling stream, 
 with rare trees and shrubs planted along 
 the avenue here and there, one arrives 
 within a few hundred yards of the mansion 
 before it is seen, and then we have before 
 us wood, mountain, and valley, beautifully 
 planted and artistically laid out, with 
 walks excavated along the sides of a deep 
 glen, the stream rushing below, across 
 which rustic bridges are thrown at certain 
 vantage points, and in sheltered situation 
 are beds of choice plants and flowers, 
 with the royal fern growing luxuriantly 
 everywhere in its habitat, and all this in 
 the midst of district as barren and as 
 isolated as if one lived in the wildest part 
 
46 
 
 SPANISH POINT. 
 
 of the world, with this difference, of course, 
 that within a few hours drive of Mount 
 Callan, association with civilized life, is 
 possible, and other advantages may he 
 enjoyed, not to be met witli in less favoured 
 situations. An ascent to the top of Mount 
 Callan reveals an ancient monument, whose 
 history is lost in obscurity, or like almost 
 all other ancient monuments is mixed up 
 with fact and fable. Not far from the coast 
 are Doulough and Coor lakes, and several 
 rivers also, which, like the lakes, are well 
 stocked with fish, to which many who 
 delight in fishing as a pastime are attracted. 
 The drives, both south and east, through 
 mountain, valley, and plain, are most in- 
 teresting, so that he who cannot enjoy a 
 month or two at Spanish Point must be 
 hard to please indeed. 
 
 Proceeding still northward, by road 
 or rail, the sea is never lost sight of, and 
 we soon reach 
 
LAHINCH. 
 
 47 
 
 LAHINCH, 
 
 which is one of the oldest established 
 bathing places on the coast. Its strand, 
 for length, width, and evenness of 
 surface, is not to be excelled in Ire- 
 land. The accommodation is excellent, 
 and not only are the lodges in town, 
 hut those on the cliffs, and every- 
 where around, are neat and respectable, 
 and so graduated in size and arrangement, 
 as to admit of being let at prices to suit 
 the position and circumstances of all 
 classes. There are hotels in Lahinch also, 
 all of which are in good, central positions, 
 affording every comfort to those who 
 patronize them. As a centre from which 
 excursions may be made, to objects and 
 places of interest in the locality, there is 
 no other part of the coast that excels it. 
 The West Clare Railway Company have a 
 station within a few minutes walk of the 
 shore, and its opening has been the means 
 of familiarising the public with the W est 
 Coast to an extent that it was not possible 
 
48 
 
 LAHINCH. 
 
 to accomplish before the line was con- 
 structed. It is a most interesting sight to 
 watch the tiny engine, and those fancy 
 carriages attached to it, trailing along, 
 like a serpent, on the railway track, which 
 is cut out at the base of a range of hills, 
 running parallel with the sea, for miles, 
 between Laliinch and Miltown ; and those 
 who travel by it enjoy a view of sea and 
 coast-line, which, if it were seen on the 
 Continent, would excite the tourist’s ad- 
 miration, and crowds would flock to enjoy 
 the spectacle. Laliinch is well sheltered ; 
 at the same time it is an open situation, as 
 one feels when the summer sun shines 
 down upon it, and the health-giving breeze 
 from the sea blows on it ; hills rise land- 
 ward, and southerly is the open sea; on 
 the west, a hold promontory affords shelter 
 from the prevailing wind more or less. 
 At Moy is a well-wooded ravine, just close 
 to Lahinch, protected by the cliffs, from 
 the sea breeze, through which a stream 
 flows and discharges into the sea. Trout 
 
ENNISTYMON. 
 
 49 
 
 abound in this stream, and a day’s fishing, 
 to those who like it, may he enjoyed in its 
 waters. The “ puffing hole,” at Freagli, 
 already described, is only about one hour’s 
 drive from Laliinch. 
 
 Ennistymon, in the neighbourhood, 
 which has been rendered famous by Banim, 
 in his book, “ The town of the cascades,” 
 should he visited, if for no other purpose 
 hut to enjoy the prospect from the bridge 
 westward, and then glancing over the 
 parapet, at the river plunging down the 
 rocks beneath ; or to take a point of 
 observation lower down the stream, and 
 looking towards the bridge after a fall of 
 rain, or when the water in the river is 
 deep, and rushing in full volume over the 
 ledge of rocks the effect is really thrilling. 
 From the windows of the southern front 
 of the principal hotel a fine view is obtained 
 of river and cascade. In the grounds of 
 the “ lord of the soil ” is a romantic glen, 
 well worth rambling through. The walks, 
 lawns and gardens are well kept, and the 
 
50 
 
 ENNISTYMON. 
 
 surrounding scenery with the mansion 
 standing on the summit of a declivity, 
 and cascade and river giving animation 
 to the scene, makes the prospect really 
 picturesque. The town of Ennistymon, 
 with its fine range of shops, large hotel 
 and good broad streets, is evidently in- 
 habited by men of taste, energy and 
 enterprise. A Bank, which indicates pros- 
 perity is in the town, and a convent situated 
 on a slope of a hill, is a pleasing object in 
 the landscape. On the opposite side of 
 the town stands a large school, under the 
 management of the Christian Brothers, a 
 community which has taken under its 
 charge the education of the boys, while 
 the Nuns attend to the training of the 
 girls. At Ennistymon also is a station of 
 the West Clare Railway, which at present 
 is the nearest to Lisdoon varna Spas, about 
 six miles distant. The scenery all round 
 Ennistymon is interesting, being only half 
 an hour’s walk from the sea, and with a 
 plentiful supply of good water distributed 
 
CLIFFS OF MOHER. 
 
 51 
 
 over the town by gravitation, and having 
 good drainage, there is everything to make 
 it a healthy place to live in, just as it is 
 a desirable one to make money in, judging 
 from the appearance of prosperity on all 
 sides. 
 
 In the distant coast line, the towers 
 on Hag’s-head, and the Cliffs of Moher, are 
 visible. Standing on the cliffs at Lahinch, 
 the Panorama, taking it from Hag’s-head, 
 and including a long range westward, and 
 northward, with the neat, white cottages 
 of the farmers, aud the handsome residences 
 of the gentry, dotting the landscape here 
 and there, is as nice a picture as any one 
 could desire to see. Starting from Lahinch, 
 with a view to making a closer acquain- 
 tance with the country westwards, we pass 
 at the north side of the Sandhills, which 
 are of large extent and elevation, and 
 keeping an old Castle on a lonely spot, on 
 a sandy beach, to the right, and crossing 
 over a bridge of no mean proportions, just 
 near it, we soon after arrive in Liscannor, 
 
52 
 
 LISCANNOR. 
 
 a fishing station on the hay. Here are an 
 ancient castle, and a Coast-guard Station, 
 of modern build, perched near each other, 
 on a prominent cliff, which can be seen 
 for miles around. Liseannor has its little 
 Harbour, where vessels load and discharge 
 their cargoes ; there are extensive flag 
 quarries in the neighbourhood, and the 
 flags are shipped to other parts of Ireland, 
 as well as to England, — which traffic has 
 grown into a large industry of late years ; 
 coal is also imported here, and the sea- 
 weed, after being burned and converted 
 into “kelp,” in large quantities, is also 
 shipped from Liseannor. A number of 
 men are employed in deep water fishing, 
 but have only those frail canoes to face 
 the dangers of the sea, to follow their 
 perilous occupation, the result being that 
 their earnings are precarious. A local 
 gentleman has been endeavouring to im- 
 prove their position, but, so far, has not 
 been very successful in his efforts to ame- 
 liorate their condition, or to provide larger 
 
LlSCANlNFOit. 
 
 53 
 
 boats, to enable them to fish in deeper 
 waters, so as to capture the larger sized 
 fish. In Liscannor and its vicinity are 
 laid many of the scenes and incidents 
 recorded by Trollope, in his work, “An 
 eye for an eye ” — who has peopled the 
 surrounding country with lords and ladies, 
 who have had no existence, except what 
 his imagination has created. All the same 
 the story is interesting, and is said to be 
 founded on fact. 
 
 After passing Liscannor we turn to 
 the left, a little beyond Seamount, and 
 keeping alongside the sea, at Clohanes, for 
 a short distance, mount the ascent to 
 Hag’s Head, on which stands one of the 
 old telegraph towers, built on, or near, the 
 site of “ Moher fort,” and from this eleva- 
 tion of 407 feet we have a view of Stookeen 
 cliff, 580 feet, Aillenasharragh, 632 feet, 
 and Knockardakin, 668 feet, above sea 
 level, which is the highest of all that range. 
 Here are miles of cliff in this extent of 
 
54 
 
 hag’s head. 
 
 coast, from Hag’s Head to Knockerdacken, 
 without any break or interruption, none 
 of which are less than 400 feet in height, 
 and to realize its grandeur fully, one must 
 come to see it. Pedestrians often, as a 
 choice, walk along these cliffs to the 
 highest point beyond, hut those who are 
 not accustomed to such long walks should 
 not attempt it. To the strong and the active 
 it is a delightful exercise, with the invigor- 
 ating sea air to breathe in ; however, for 
 those who cannot scramble over the heather, 
 and rough it, to a certain extent, the easier 
 route is to keep to the road and to one’s 
 vehicle, which runs at the back of the cliffs, 
 and soon, emerging on the main road turn 
 to the left, and continuing the journey 
 arrive at the foot of the highest range of 
 coast, where stables and coach houses are 
 available for the use of visitors. Alighting 
 here, w r e scale the sides of a declivity, and 
 reaching, within some yards of the cliff, 
 one’s curiosity is excited on hearing sounds 
 like that of the distant notes of the High- 
 
hag’s head. 
 
 55 
 
 land bagpipes, which, however, on ap- 
 proaching nearer, we discover to proceed 
 from thousands of sea-birds on the wing, 
 of curious shape and colour, the most in- 
 teresting of the number being, in our 
 opinion, the “ sea-parrot.” On the ledges 
 of the cliffs are discerned white objects 
 which are inexplicable to one who is not 
 sharp sighted, but with the aid of a tele- 
 scope, the mystery is soon solved, in having 
 these objects defined, which we discover to 
 he sea-hirds perched there, evidently the 
 younger brood “ contemplating the scene.” 
 On the platform of this cliff is fixed a 
 remarkably large circular stone table, evi- 
 dently one of those flags quarried in the 
 vicinity, with stone seats all round, securely 
 fixed on the solid rock. Here one can 
 enjoy luncheon, while the wild birds, from 
 almost innumerable throats, sing the 
 thanksgiving. The view from this “ table ” 
 rock is certainly enchanting ; the face of 
 the coast is seen to Hag’s Head ; the sides 
 of the cliff at the point on which we stand 
 
56 
 
 o’brien’s tower. 
 
 almost overhang. It is so perpendicular 
 that to look over it would make many a 
 one dizzy. After resting the while, an 
 ascent is made for “ O’Brien’s Tower.” 
 Stone flags are placed on end all along the 
 face of the cliff, as a protection, and at 
 certain “ view points,” there are “ set-offs,” 
 so constructed that one can look down 
 below, over the cliffs, without incurring 
 any risk of falling over, and at abrupt 
 points, nice flagged steps are fixed to make 
 the ascent and descent easier ; about half 
 way up to “ O’Brien’s Tower ” a pinnacled 
 rock j uts out into the sea from the base of 
 the cliff, which is a remarkable object 
 down below, partly covered with very 
 scant verdure, and accessible only to some 
 daring spirit, who would scale the cliff or 
 let himself down by the aid of a rope fixed 
 to the cliff above. On reaching “ O’Brien’s 
 Tower ” we find it was built for accommo- 
 dating those who came prepared to dine 
 on the spot ; there is a kitchen for cooking 
 purposes, and a spacious room overhead to 
 
o’brien’s tower. 57 
 
 which access is gained by steps, and from 
 which one can ascend to the roof outside, 
 to obtain a view. After enjoying the 
 prospect we descend, and our next effort is 
 to scale the side of the highest point of all ; 
 having reached the summit we are rewarded 
 with a view of land and sea, island and 
 promontory, which to describe in order to 
 convey to our readers any idea of its 
 grandeur and extent, would be an impos- 
 sibility; nothingless tlianactual observation 
 could even faintly picture the scene, and 
 one should be under the influence of the 
 exhilarating effects of the clear pure air of 
 this elevated platform to realize all the 
 beauty and grandeur of the situation. To 
 the South and East the view extends to the 
 counties of Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary, 
 Waterford, and Cork ; the Galtee Moun- 
 tains are distinctly observed — in fact, the 
 landscape is only bounded by the horizon, 
 because there is no other cliff, hill, moun- 
 tain, or elevation, which intercepts the 
 view, for scores of miles inland. Turning 
 
58 o’brien’s tower. 
 
 to the West, the Islands of Arran appear 
 as if at one’s feet set like emeralds in the 
 crystal waters of the Atlantic, and with 
 such a wide expanse of sea, one becomes 
 fascinated, and as it were spell-bound. 
 Northward, the prospect is just as pleasing; 
 the County Galway and Blackhead ap- 
 pearing only a few miles distant, and the 
 “Twelve Pins,” in the County -Wpfgor jnst 
 as if in the cloudland, yet distinctly visible 
 to the naked eye. And if we are not 
 “ monarchs of all we survey,” we certainly 
 survey a prospect which a monarch might 
 feel honoured at being privileged to gaze 
 upon. 
 
 And standing here on this “ tall cliff,” 
 nearly 700 feet above the sea, we should 
 realize the fact that we are occupying a 
 position on the nearest coast-line in Europe 
 to the Western Hemisphere, and just as 
 the electric spark is conveying messages 
 under the sea from a neighbouring county 
 on the same coast to the far west, may we 
 not, in imagination, also speak across the 
 
st. Bridget’s well. 
 
 59 
 
 waves with those who are near and dear 
 to us on those shores beyond, which are 
 washed by the same waves that are dashed 
 against the cliff at our feet beneath. 
 
 Retracing our steps we are again 
 traversing the road over which we travelled 
 till we arrive at the turn of the road, and 
 proceeding in a southerly direction, soon 
 reach St. Bridget’s Well. From the high- 
 way here a really fine view is obtained of 
 Lahincli, Ennistymon, Liscannor, and the 
 opposite shore of the bay. About midway 
 to Liscannor, in the midst of a grove of 
 trees, is the fine old mansion known as 
 Birchfield, the seat of the late Cornelius 
 O’Brien, for many years Member of Par- 
 liament for the County of Clare, and to 
 whom the public are indebted for the 
 tower on the summit of the cliffs, which 
 bears his name. It was his money and 
 enterprise which reclaimed the land sur- 
 rounding the cliffs, and for a long distance 
 inland. To his name, and to those who 
 superintended the works for him, is due 
 
60 sT. Bridget’s well. 
 
 the honour of making the surrounding 
 landscape so beautiful. The stables and 
 coach-houses, built for the accommodation 
 of the public, at the base of the cliffs, land- 
 ward, if not the work of his own hand, are 
 the work of his brain and his money paid 
 for their erection ; hut now, alas, not a 
 single member of his numerous family is 
 alive to inherit the property which cost 
 him so much to improve and beautify, and 
 his late mansion, once so attractive, is 
 fast going to decay. The “ blessed well,” 
 which the late Mr. O’Brien did so much 
 to ornament, is an interesting place to 
 visit, because of the veneration in which 
 it is held. St. Bridget is the Patron, and 
 hundreds assemble here from distant parts 
 of Clare and the neighbouring county on 
 “ Patron” days and at other times to pay 
 their rounds and perform devotional exer- 
 cises. Adjoining St. Bridget’s ’Well, in a 
 neat cemetry, is the family vault of the 
 O’Brien’s of Birchfield, wherein the re- 
 mains of the former head of that house 
 
BIRCHFIELD. 
 
 61 
 
 reposes, and just across the road is a tall 
 limestone column, surrounded by a nice 
 plantation, with the landward side of the 
 cliffs as a background, erected to his 
 memory by public subscription ; but the 
 best testimony to Mr. O’Brien’s useful life 
 are the improvements effected on all the 
 country round about these cliffs. After a 
 short pause to scan the prospect, so as to 
 fix the impression on the memory, we take 
 our departure for Laliincli. And now 
 having given an outline of the more inte- 
 resting features of this coast, which we 
 have often visited and never tired of, we 
 prepare for a journey to Lisdoon varna 
 Spas, and whether one takes a seat in a 
 railway carriage at Lahinch for Ennis- 
 tymon, and then hire a car for Lisdoon- 
 varna, or drives direct from Lahinch, is a 
 question that each individual must decide 
 for himself ; however, we take a car, and 
 driving over the same highway which we 
 traversed on our westward trip, but turn- 
 ing to the right instead of to the left, after 
 
62 
 
 KILSIIANNY. 
 
 going a short distance beyond the bridge, 
 drive along a valley which is not altogether 
 uninteresting, and on approaching Kil- 
 slianny we observe, a short distance from 
 the road, a cairn, or heap of stones, com- 
 monly known as “ cairn-na-connachta” — 
 or the “cairn of the Connaughtman” — 
 with no ancient building, ruin, or struc- 
 ture of any kind near it, except the ordi- 
 nary farm-house, not even rocks or other 
 stones in the immediate neighbourhood. 
 This collection is a strange sight, with 
 such surroundings; it appears that tradition 
 assigns to it some history, or story of a 
 battle, or other event, in which an im- 
 portant Connaught personage was slain, 
 over whose grave these stones were piled, 
 having been placed there, from time to 
 time, by passers-by throwing a stone on 
 the spot, which is a custom that used to be 
 practised in Ireland within our own 
 recollection wherever a murder was com. 
 mitted, on, or near the roadside, and 
 probably the custom is observed in other 
 
LISDOONVAUNA. 
 
 63 
 
 parts of the country still. Proceeding 
 onward, through an undulating country 
 rather interesting, and coming within a 
 few miles of 
 
 LISDOONVARNA 
 
 we have a view of the sea again, with 
 more of moorland in the landscape, and 
 soon after are passing over the “spectacle” 
 bridge which crosses a river running 
 through a deep glen on its course to the 
 sea a few miles westward. The pecu- 
 liarity of this bridge is probably due to 
 the fact that owing to the great depth of 
 the chasm that had to be spanned, the 
 bridge should be built unusually high, in 
 order to bring it on a level with the banks 
 on either side, so as to form a level road- 
 way above; and the architect, perhaps, 
 with a view to make the structure as 
 light and graceful-looking as possible, con- 
 trived a circular opening where the dead 
 work should be, and now there are two 
 apertures — one below through which the 
 water flows, and the circular one above,, 
 
64 
 
 LTSDOONVARNA. 
 
 which is rather a novel feature in bridge- 
 making. After passing over this “ spec- 
 tacle” bridge we turn to the right, and 
 are then brought in line with the ravine 
 which we are after crossing ; and near the 
 Episcopal Church, half way down a steep 
 incline, we come to the first of the spas, 
 which are known as the “Twin Wells,” 
 namely, sulphur and iron, issuing from 
 the side of a rock, almost side by side, and 
 which both in taste and smell are as 
 distinct as if miles asunder. As we ap- 
 proach the centre of this health-resort, we 
 are impressed with the appearance of large 
 and imposing hotels, and other fine houses, 
 built for the accommodation of those 
 coming to drink its mineral waters ; there 
 are large and well-stocked shops on all 
 sides, which are not the least of the many 
 indications of the enterprise of those who 
 built and stocked them ; everywhere there 
 are evidences of prosperity, and of the 
 large amount of capital invested, and 
 manifest appearances everywhere of a 
 
LISDOOKVARKA.' — From a Photo by W. Lawrence. 
 
the library 
 
 OF THE 
 UNIVERSITY 8f 
 
LISDOONVARNA. 
 
 65 
 
 desire to minister to the comfort of those 
 who come to this interesting region. Good 
 potable water is brought, by gravitation, a 
 considerable distance, and distributed by 
 stand-cocks, and other means ; and while 
 the rich and the humbler class meet here, 
 as in the world at large, the wants of all 
 are provided for according to their rank 
 and station, and their ability to pay for 
 extra comforts. Not far from the square, 
 on the road to the sea, to the right, are the 
 iron and the magnesia wells, and down in 
 the valley, on the brink of the ravine 
 already referred to, but on the opposite 
 side altogether, is the great sulphur well, 
 with the baths quite convenient. Here, 
 in a nice “ well-liouse,” crowds come regu- 
 larly to drink the sulphur which appears 
 to be that most generally partaken of, and 
 which is pumped up from the spring be- 
 neath; and while some appear to enjoy the 
 draught, others, judged by their grimaces 
 neither like the taste nor smell of it. 
 We could never fancy the sulphurous 
 
66 
 
 LISDOON VARNA. 
 
 odour, which is remarkably strong ; how- 
 ever, like most other draughts for curative 
 purposes, the question of taste and smell 
 must be dismissed from one’s thoughts 
 altogether when we partake of such. 
 
 On a slight eminence, over the sulphur 
 spa, is the handsomely designed residence of 
 a medical doctor, who evidently enjoys the 
 confidence of the people, judging from the 
 numbers seeking his consulting room. He 
 is owner of the sulphur baths also, and the 
 public have great reason to thank him for 
 this valuable addition to the other health 
 restoring agencies. Farther up the incline 
 is another series of hotels and lodges for 
 visitors. Lisdoonvarna appears to be in 
 two divisions, separated by a deep ravine, 
 with a bridge crossing it near the sulphur 
 well, besides the “ spectacle ” bridge, lower- 
 down the stream. Both sides of. the valley 
 are partly built upon, but the business 
 portion is evidently confined to the 
 northern end. As a rule the houses and 
 hotels are detached buildings scattered 
 
LISDOONVARNA. 
 
 67 
 
 over a wide district of country, which pre- 
 sent an attractive appearance when seen 
 from a distance, amid such wild scenery, 
 however, good accommodation is provided 
 in apartments adjoining, and over the 
 business concerns, and by most people the 
 houses in the streets are preferred to the 
 outlying ones, for convenience as well as 
 comfort ; the hotels are certainly as well 
 managed as any in the kingdom, and 
 admirably fitted and furnished to suit 
 modern tastes and habits. The glens and 
 deep ravines which intersect the country, 
 add much to the beauty of the place. Its 
 close proximity to the sea, which can he 
 seen westward, the mountainous nature 
 of the region, and the peat heath-covered 
 soil, contribute very much to its fame as 
 a health-restoring holiday haunt. And 
 that Lisdoonvarna Spas have effected 
 cures which treatment at home, under 
 medical advice, failed to accomplish, are 
 facts admitted by thousands who have 
 come helpless invalids, and returned to 
 
68 
 
 LISDOONVARNA. 
 
 their homes in the enjoyment of robust 
 health; such evidence is better than all 
 that the faculty could say in recommenda- 
 tion of its springs, and its salubrious air, 
 for the cure of the “ills which flesh is 
 heir to.” Prom Lisdoonvarna excursions 
 are made to the Cliffs of Molier, Lahincli, 
 Spanish Point, and even to Kilkee, already 
 described. The drive from Lisdoonvarna 
 to the Cliffs is a most enjoyable one, along 
 the coast, with the Islands of Arran in 
 view, and the ruins of another old tele- 
 graph tower on the landscape, on the coast 
 over Doolin; and here at this extreme 
 west coast, down at the shore at Doolin is 
 some of the best grazing land in the 
 county, which is proverbial for its fatten- 
 ing quality. There is a tradition that an 
 acre of this land fattens a bullock, and if 
 its verdant appearance at all seasons of 
 the year, is any guarantee of richness, the 
 land certainly must be prime. Ballagha- 
 line is a fishing station, near Doolin, and 
 being the nearest and most convenient 
 
fclSbOOttVAHNA. 
 
 6§ 
 
 place for visitors staying at Lisdoonvarna, 
 it is customary to hire a canoe for an 
 excursion to the nearest of the Islands of 
 Arran, which is about an hour’s rowing 
 from the mainland, with favourable wind. 
 The Arran people come here with fish to 
 sell, and also to buy goods on the mainland. 
 They bring cattle to neighbouring fairs and 
 markets, and make purchases also, which 
 they take hack with them. Horses, cattle, 
 and animals of every description are trans- 
 ported to and from the Island in open 
 boats, and a cruel practice it is, owing to 
 having no place hut the beach to land and 
 embark ; the want of a harbour or quay of 
 some sort is experienced by the fishermen 
 themselves, who have no place to turn to 
 for shelter when overtaken in a storm, 
 while out at sea fishing. A breakwater 
 connecting the mainland with Crab Island, 
 a few hundred yards opposite the shore, 
 would accomplish all that is necessary, 
 and would be a great boon conferred 
 on the poor men who have nothing to 
 
• MOUNT ELYA. 
 
 r 1o 
 
 depend on except the “harvest” which 
 the sea produces for their support. The 
 Government could not better employ the 
 public money than in providing harbour 
 accommodation for the fishermen of the 
 mainland as well as for the Arran people 
 who frequent Ballaghaline. 
 
 Driving from Lisdoonvarna to Doolin, 
 subterranean passages may be observed, 
 into which the streams flow, and are 
 carried underground to the sea beyond, 
 and near the coast are openings which 
 indicate where these subterranean cham- 
 bers exist. 
 
 An excursion to Mount Elva, and 
 that long range of hills round about it, 
 from whose summit magnificent views are 
 obtained of sea and landscape, is most 
 enjoyable. 
 
 In Kilfenora, a few miles eastward, 
 are ancient churches, a portion of which 
 at present is used for Divine Service, and 
 one of a number of ancient crosses, which 
 
KILPENORA. *?1 
 
 were formerly fixed in several parts of the 
 suburbs of the village, is still to be seen. 
 The road to Kilfenora runs over a rising 
 ground through a wide extent of peat soil 
 on both sides, where turf for the countrv 
 round is cut and prepared, and which ter- 
 minates near an abrupt turn of the road, 
 a few miles from Kilfenora, and then 
 clay and lime-stone formation begins ; the 
 descent is a very rapid one into the valley, 
 the view of the extensive tract of land, 
 with Kilfenora down below, an old castle 
 to the left, and its ancient church partly 
 in ruin, the Deanery, close at hand, sur- 
 rounded by a nice plantation, and the 
 houses of the gentry and farmers, scattered 
 far and wide, and all set in a framework 
 of hills, is indeed a charming picture, and 
 farther inland, at Leimineagh, is an old 
 castle, once the seat of “ Mauria Rhue,” 
 or “ Red Mary,” of the clan O’Brien, who 
 it appears ruled the country with a high 
 hand in those days when “ might was 
 right.” The castle is one of those old 
 
72 
 
 KlLFElSfORA. 
 
 castellated mansions, and it would appear 
 as if built adjoining a more ancient struc- 
 ture of a different type altogether. The 
 difference is easily seen in the slits in the 
 wall to admit light and air, while in the 
 other portion the windows are larger, with 
 stone mullions, and although erected as if 
 to form one edifice, it is evident both are 
 built, from the foundation to the top, 
 separately. The demesne wall of this 
 ancient inheritance of the Dromoland 
 family is in good repair, and can he easily 
 defined, and what was ‘once a carriage 
 drive or entrance to the Castle, lias been 
 converted into the public highway for 
 some distance, and the stone pillars of the 
 gateway are preserved along the road in 
 almost the same state they were in when 
 this distinguished lady herself was driven 
 or rode through them. 
 
 But the crowning feature of all is the 
 drive to Bally vaughan round the sea coast 
 by Blackhead. From Lisdoonvarna the 
 route is westward, over a road rising 
 
B ALLIN ALACKEN CASTLE. 
 
 73 
 
 slightly till one approaches near Ballina- 
 lacken, and then the descent is gradual at 
 first, and on a nearer approach to the sea 
 more rapid for several hundred feet, till 
 one reaches the level road running along 
 the coast. 
 
 In the valley through which we pass 
 before reaching this point, Ballinalacken 
 old castle is seen on the right, built on the 
 verge of a steep rock, on the brink of a 
 ravine. The mansion of a local landowner 
 whose estate extends “ far and near,” and 
 who is connected with one high in office 
 under the Crown, is quite close to it, and 
 both the modern, as well as the ancient 
 structure add to the beauty of the situation; 
 the grounds and plantations surrounding 
 this gentleman’s residence are well kept 
 and look like an “ Oasis ” in the desert. 
 Away in this romantic region with magni- 
 ficent views of sea, rock, and landscape, it 
 is one of these places one would like to 
 live in, to get away from “ the busy baunts 
 of men,” to enjoy repose and solitude, and 
 
74 BALLINALACKLE CASTLE. 
 
 this old castle always so near reminding 
 one of the great difference in manners and 
 liahits between the modern landowner and 
 his predecessor, who lived hundreds of years 
 ago ; the type of architecture is also so 
 different in the two eras. In the past it 
 seems what we regard as heme comforts 
 were utterly disregarded ; for example, the 
 admission of light and air through these 
 slits in the wall would not satisfy our 
 modern tastes ; they had no need of blinds 
 or window hangings in former days ; the 
 moat or trench outside the castle walls must 
 have heen their bathing place, with the 
 arch of heaven forming a covering, as we 
 see no provision in this old castle for hath 
 rooms ; neither can we observe a trace of a 
 kitchen range or arrangements for send- 
 ing hot water through the rooms to temper 
 the morning hath for the ladies and gentle- 
 men of the familv. We wonder how men 
 
 v 
 
 of the past could dispense with all the 
 luxuries and contrivances which we, in 
 modern times, consider so necessary for 
 
BLACKHEAD. 
 
 75 
 
 our comfort ancl enjoyment. Perhaps, 
 after all, it is as well not to dwell on these 
 matters, or make such comparisons ; the 
 changes effected in the manners, habits, 
 and tastes of the people within the last 
 fifty years are nearly as remarkable as 
 those we have been discussing. 
 
 And now, after this digression, and a 
 short pause which we consider necessary, 
 to take some mental notes of “ passing 
 events,” we proceed on our journey to 
 Blackhead. Por miles the drive is along 
 the coast, with the sea on one side and a 
 line of limestone hills on the other hand ; 
 every few miles we travel reveal new and 
 enchanting scenery, till at length we reach 
 the turn in the road, at the head of Gal- 
 way Bay, which is the extreme point of 
 land on the coast of North Clare. And 
 here we stand amazed at the expansiveness 
 of the sea view ; we have objects before us, 
 seen from the Cliffs of Moher, which 
 appeared a long way off, now as it were 
 spread almost within our reach, the Arran 
 
76 
 
 BLACKHEAi). 
 
 Islands, as if only a few miles distant, the 
 Galway coast, across the Bay, is so near 
 that we discern small objects. Salthill, a 
 health-resort, and the town of Galway its- 
 self are within range of our vision ; as to 
 the sea — “ the hroad Atlantic” — who can 
 adequately describe its vastness and its 
 grandeur. Seen from a high elevation, 
 such as we now occupy, who is competent 
 to pourtray its sublimity; everything 
 appears so calm one imagines it is in 
 repose, hut when we see those white 
 specks now and again, which we know 
 are wave-crests, we feel then that its 
 repose is only apparent, and that there is 
 a voice in the wave, hut we hear it not ; 
 then, just look at those mountain ranges, 
 which were like clouds when viewed from 
 a greater distance, are now more easily 
 discerned, and the whole, including islands, 
 sea, mountains and landscape, focussed into 
 a compass which the eye scans from the 
 spot where we are standing, and such a 
 combination of wild natural scenery, we 
 
BLACKHEAD. 
 
 77 
 
 venture to assert, cannot be surpassed in 
 any other part of the world. 
 
 Behind us is Blackhead, rising hun- 
 dreds of feet above the roadway where we 
 stand, acting as a fence on one side and 
 for a protection at the other hand, only a 
 dwarf stone wall, and down below the sea 
 dashing in all its fury. An ascent to the 
 summit of Blackhead, which attains an 
 altitude of 647 feet, reveals greater wonder 
 still, the panorama being more extensive 
 on all sides, and to one that loves the sea 
 and its surroundings it is enchanting with 
 
 “ Echoes and waterfalls and pointed crags 
 “ That into music touch the passing breeze.” 
 
 Proceeding for miles alongside this 
 steep cliif and high mountain range, from 
 the side of which the road was excavated, 
 the sea on the other side, we discern 
 objects more clearly across on the opposite 
 shore, according as the bay narrows on 
 approaching its termination, and arriving 
 at Ballyvaughan, with an appetite for 
 
7S 
 
 CORCOMROE ABBEY. 
 
 luncheon, soon have the desire gratified. 
 And now, glancing at the scenery of this 
 valley, with Ballyvaughan in the fore- 
 ground, without doubt it is a most inte- 
 resting place, and a nice retreat to spend 
 a holiday in. The principal hotel is on 
 the shore, and in our experience it is well 
 conducted, and one can be made comfort- 
 able in it, as we ourselves experienced 
 when staying under its roof. A steamer 
 plys between Galway and Ballyvaughan, 
 taking passengers to and from Lisdoon- 
 varna, and excursions are made also to the 
 Arran Islands from it and from Galway. 
 Corcomroe Abbey, founded, it is said by 
 Donald, King of Limerick, in 1191, others 
 say in the year 1200 by his son, Donagh 
 Carbrae, is in the neighbourhood, and here 
 the antiquarian has a rich treat in the study 
 of its sculpture and architecture, and of 
 the events which have given it a foremost 
 place in the Annals of Ireland. In many 
 a hard fought battle in ancient days these 
 plains and hills were reddened with the 
 
CORCOMROE ABBEY. 
 
 70 
 
 blood of the O’Briens and O’Loughlins, 
 and other clansmen of the period. The 
 career of the Princes of Thomond and 
 Lords of Incliiquin are the most remark- 
 able of all the other great Irish families 
 which influenced the destinies of Ireland 
 for a considerable period. Their history 
 might be said to be the History of Ireland 
 at one time. The castles, churches and 
 abbeys, which they built and endowed in 
 Clare, Tipperary and Limerick are evi- 
 dence of their great wealth, and of the 
 extensive and extended powers which they 
 exercised in former davs ; and notwith- 
 standing all the turmoil, dissenlions, strife 
 and confiscations which history records 
 of the Clan O’Brien, the Marquis of 
 Thomond retained immense possessions 
 till his decease not very many years 
 since, and even the present representative 
 of the family has in Dromoland a home 
 worthy of his high lineage, and enjoys 
 the revenue of a property of vast extent 
 in his native county, and no matter how 
 
80 
 
 CORCOMROE ABBEY. 
 
 one may differ with the religion or the 
 politics of the great house of the O’Brien’s, 
 one must take a pride in them on account 
 of the distinguished part they played in 
 the history of Ireland for centuries, al- 
 though not always admiring the means 
 employed and the plans adopted to conquer 
 their foes or curb the rebellion of tlieir 
 allies and clansmen, as well as their own 
 kinsmen. In this Abbey of Corcomroe, 
 King Conor O’Brien was interred, being 
 slain in a battle not far from its site ; again 
 quoting from Mr. Westropp’s paper — “ and 
 the monks of the abbey buried the King on 
 the north side of the chancel, and put over 
 him his effigy carved in black marble, with 
 his flowing hair and tunic, pointed shoes 
 and a reliquary round his neck, his sceptre 
 and crown adorned with fleur-de-lis.” 
 And we who have visited this abbey saw 
 the effigy just as it is described, and in a 
 good state of preservation after a lapse of 
 six centuries, although no effort was ever 
 made to protect it from the ravages of 
 
NEW QUAY. 
 
 81 
 
 decay, or the hand of man, until a Govern- 
 ment department took charge of the abbey 
 within the past few years, and now abbey 
 and effigy are preserved as one of our 
 national monuments. 
 
 A drive to New Quay is also an enjoy- 
 able one, and in going and returning there 
 are many objects and places of interest to 
 be seen. 
 
 We hear and read of “ Arabia Petra,” 
 and tourists and explorers have written 
 about it, but nowhere, we think, is there 
 such a wealth of rock as in this valley of 
 limestone in the neighbourhood of Bally- 
 vaughan. 
 
 The bold mountain range above the 
 town, appears from its formation and the 
 peculiar marks on the face of the rock to 
 be at one time the limit of the sea, which 
 probably having receded, or an upheaval of 
 the coast, left valley and mountain high 
 and dry as they are. Prom Corcomroe 
 Abbey the route may be diversified by 
 
82 
 
 KYBER PASS.” 
 
 taking a southerly direction in order to 
 see the deep cutting called by some the 
 “ Kyber Pass,” through which the road 
 leading to Carran was excavated out of 
 the solid lime-stone rock, and for a con- 
 siderable distance these rocks, which are 
 almost perpendicular, and several feet 
 high, are the only fences to the roadway 
 at both sides. After passing Carran, and 
 as one ascends the higher elevation, the 
 country looks like a desert, no fences to 
 the road, and altogether a dreary-looking 
 spot. On one side is a valley hounded by 
 a high lime-stone peak called the “ Eagle’s 
 Nest,” and on the other side a wide extent 
 of country, rocks being the most prominent 
 feature in the landscape. Proceeding on- 
 ward we reach the southern brow of this 
 hill, which we entered upon from the 
 northern side, and now we have southward 
 and westward a splendid view of hill, lake, 
 wood, valley, and plain for miles, the view 
 extending beyond Ennis, which is seen in 
 the distance. Prom here it is a rapid 
 
LEMINEAGH CASl'LE. 
 
 83 
 
 descent for a mile or so, and on reaching 
 the level road we have a choice of either 
 returning direct by Lemineagh Castle or 
 driving round the beautiful lake of Inclii- 
 quin. Taking the latter route we turn to 
 the left, and on arriving near Corofin, 
 wheel to the right, and soon after ascend 
 the mountain side, then through a dense 
 forest, amid a profusion of ferns, with tiny 
 waterfalls trickling down the mountain, 
 and vistas of the lake below, dotted with 
 little islands, and on its shore old ruins, 
 Corofin, with a church which “ tops the 
 neighbouring hill,” a few miles beyond, 
 and then hack to Lisdoonvarna or Bally- 
 vaughan. 
 
 It is due to the memory of a nobleman 
 some years deceased to say that he erected, 
 at his sole expense, a system of w r ater 
 supply in this valley of north Clare, w T hich 
 redounds to his memory as a public bene- 
 factor, and which event is recorded on 
 an imposing-looking fountain in Bally- 
 vaughan. It being the first v T ork, avc 
 
84 “ CORKCREW” HILL. 
 
 believe, of sucli magnitude inaugurated 
 for rural supply in Ireland, it reflects the 
 greater honour, not only on the deceased 
 nobleman himself, hut on the agent as 
 well, who co-operated in bringing the 
 scheme to completion with so much suc- 
 cess, and with so much advantage to those 
 living in a wide district of country who 
 were subject to water-famine every summer 
 or in dry seasons. 
 
 Having seen all that is worth observ- 
 ing in Ballyvauglian, instead of returning 
 by Blackhead, we alter our route land- 
 ward, towards the “ corkscrew ” hill, and 
 turning to the left, on reaching the foot 
 of a steep hill near Gregan’s Castle, arrive 
 at a point on the road which, to look at 
 even from a short distance, appears as if 
 the highway terminates there ; the driver 
 asked where he was to go next ; we told 
 him, “drive on,” but still he could not be 
 convinced there was an outlet, and asked 
 again “ whereto ? ” But we, knowing the 
 locality from previous experience, • urged 
 
CORKSCREW HILL From a Photo by W. Lawrenee 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY ft* tttWM* 
 
“ CORKSCREW” HILL $5 
 
 liim to proceed, and at last, obeying orders, 
 he was surprised to see the road opening 
 up before him as he progressed, and then 
 on we went, winding our way upwards, 
 from left to right, and right to left, in zig- 
 zag fashion, scaling a height which, looked 
 at from below, one would imagine that a 
 pedestrian, much less a horse and vehicle, 
 could possibly ascend so steep an incline. 
 And proceeding in this way, at walking 
 pace, for a considerable distance, up this 
 height, gaining, on the principle of the 
 screw-action, a few yards only, at each 
 turn, till at length we arrive at the sum- 
 mit of this formidable obstacle, and then 
 standing to rest, and contemplate, look 
 backward at the glorious view of sea, land, 
 wood, and rock, down in the valley below, 
 and far away in the County Galway. 
 Here we close, because the remainder of 
 our journey back to Lisdoonvarna, has to 
 a great extent, been described already, 
 when writing of Kilfenora ; indeed we 
 have exceeded the limit prescribed when 
 
86 
 
 CONCLUSION, 
 
 we undertook the responsibility of writing 
 this sketch, our original intention being 
 simply to give to the public our own 
 delightful experiences when sojourning at 
 the coast, as we wandered among the rocks, 
 and loitered on the cliffs, and, at evening, 
 as the sun was setting, watched the orb of 
 day drop, as it were, into the ocean, amid 
 such a natural illumination as would put 
 to shame the best efforts of a pyrotechnist, 
 but the theme was so fascinating we were 
 enticed to add line to line, and page to 
 page, in order to give some idea of its 
 wild grandeur to those who never before 
 visited the west coast. 
 
 It is to us a labour of love to describe 
 places with which we are so familiar, 
 where we have so many friends, and where 
 some pleasant days, as well as hours, have 
 been spent in early life as well as when 
 age has blanched the hair and made the 
 step less elastic. "We have often felt, like 
 some ill -managed ship at sea in danger of 
 foundering, when attempting to describe 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 87 
 
 scenery which the pencil and not the pen 
 
 would more fitly illustrate. And now 
 * 
 
 having surmounted all impediments and 
 overcome the difficulties which the inex- 
 perienced in writing a book of even this 
 small compass have to encounter, in con- 
 clusion ask our readers to forget its imper- 
 fections, having regard to the fact that 
 all has been written with a view solely of 
 exciting the curiosity of such of our 
 readers as have never had the opportunity 
 of beholding the scenes described, which, in 
 our opinion, should he more widely known 
 because so suitable for health and recrea- 
 tion, and should these humble efforts of 
 ours induce any one to visit the beautiful 
 region we have so imperfectly depicted, it 
 shall he an ample reward for the labour 
 and time expended in writing of the 
 “ Holiday Haunts on the West 
 Coast op Clare.” 
 
 FINIS. 
 
INSTRUCTIONS TO TOURISTS AND OTHERS. 
 
 ROUTES AS FOLLOWS I 
 
 I — From Dublin by Midland Line, via Athenry 
 Line, to Ennis, from thence by West Clare 
 and South Clare Lines to Lisdoonvarna, 
 Lahinch, Miltown Malbay, and Kilkee. 
 
 II — Also, from Dublin by Midland Line to Galway, 
 and across the Bay by Steamer to Bally- 
 vaughan, and from thence by car, either by 
 Blackhead or over Corkscrew Hill to Lis- 
 doonvarna. 
 
 Ill — From Dublin by Great Southern and Western 
 and Waterford and Limerick Lines, via 
 Limerick. Those travelling by this route 
 have the option of going from Limerick to 
 Kilkee direct by steamer to Kilrush, or rail 
 to Foynes and from thence to Kilrush by 
 steamer, and then over South Clare Rail- 
 way, which is an extension of the West 
 Clare Line, to Kilkee ; or, take Rail to 
 Ennis and from thence by West Clare and 
 South Clare Lines to all parts on the West 
 Coast of Clare. 
 
 All these several routes have their own pecu- 
 liar advantages and charms. 
 
)