nao’ 5 ise Seah ota pate Sites Be AACR PAORE — $ Cie eon whee reese ey Petes IUD TOMER LE Che ECL USE TPR URL eee eet ae ene bes Remkua tv pane BAEDEKER’S GUIDE BOOKS. BELGIUM anp HOLLAND, with 8 Maps and 18 Plans. Sixth Edition. 1881. 5 marks. THE RHINE From ROTTERDAM to CONSTANCE (THE SEVEN Mountains, MosELLE, VOLCANIC EIFEL, VoseEs Mrts., BLack Forest, etc.), with 28 Mapsand 21 Plans. Eighth Edition. 1882. 6 marks. NORTHERN GERMANY, with 25 Maps and 33 Plans. Seventh Edition. 1881. i 6 marks. SOUTHERN GERMANY anp AUSTRIA, INcLUDING HuUN- GARY AND TRANSYLVANIA, with 13 3 Maps and 24 Plans. Fourth Edition. 1880. 6 marks. THE EASTERN ALPS, INCLUDING THE BAVARIAN HIGH- LANDS, THE TYROL, SALZKAMMERGUT, etc. With 20 Maps, 10 Plans, and 7 Panoramas. Fourth Edition. 1879. 6 marks. NORTHERN ITALY, 1ncLupiInc LEGHORN, FLORENCE, RAVENNA, anv tHE ISLAND OF CORSICA, AND Routes To ITAty THROUGH FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, AND AUSTRIA, with 415 Maps and 32 Plans. Sixth Edition. 1882. 6 marks. CENTRAL ITALY anp ROME, with 7 Maps, 27 Plans, and a Panorama of Rome. Seventh Edition. 1881. 6 marks. SOUTHERN ITALY, SICILY, AND ExcurRsIONS TO THE LIPARI ISLANDS, TUNIS (CartHacr), SARDINIA, MALTA, np CORFU, with 25 Maps and 16 Plans. Eighth Edition. 1883. 6 marks. LONDON anp its ENVIRONS, INCLUDING BRIGHTON, THE IsLE OF WIGHT, etc. With 4 Maps and 15 Plans. Third Edition. 1881. 6 marks. NORWAY AnD SWEDEN, with 2! Maps and 9 Plans. Second Edition. 1882. 9 marks. PARIS anp Its ENVIRONS, witH RovuTEs FROM LONDON TO PARIS, AND FROM PARIS TO THE RHINE AND SWITZERLAND. With 10 Maps and 30 Plans. Seventh Edition. 1881. 6 marks. SWITZERLAND, AND THE ADJACENT PARTS OF ITALY, SAVOY, anv THE TYROL, with 26 Maps, 10 Plans, and 9 Panoramas. Ninth Edition. 1881. 7 marks. 1 A THE EAST. LOWER EGYPT, wiTH THE FAYUM AND THE . PENINSULA OF SINAI, with 16 Maps, 29 Plans, 7 Views, and 76 Vignettes. 1878. 15 marks. — PALESTINE anp SYRIA, with 18 Maps, 43 Plans, 1 Panorama of Jerusalem, and 10 Views. 1876. 20 marks. THE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, In ENGLISH, GERMAN, FRENCH, AND ITALIAN. 3 marks. December 1882. SCT FRAY PO oe ER Da Pes RP a be Ueboasaadt peaitt 1 LINOIS/LIBRARY AT URBANA.CHAMPAIGN NORTHERN ITALY. MONEY-TABLE. (Comp. p. xi.) Approximate Equivalents. Italian. | American. English. German. Austrian. | ne S. | D. || Mk. | Pfg. | Lire. | Cent. 1 Doll. | Cts. 1 = 5 — 1 == == Ilo < = 25 — 5 — 2Qllo —= 20 a 50 —_ 10 — 5 = AO — 75 — 15 == Tq — 60 1 — — 20 — 93}, — 80 2 — — 40 — 1 7 1 60 3 — a 60 — 2 5 2 AO A — — 80 — 3 Q1]o 3 20 5 — 1 — — A — 4A — 6 — 1 20 = 4 93 4A 80 7 — 1 40 — 5 7 5 60 8 — 1 60 — 6 5 6 AO 9 — 1 80 — 7 212 *¢ 20 10 — 2 — — 8 — 8 — sft — 2 20 — 8 | 934 8 80 12 — 2 AO = 9 TH. 9 60 13 oe 2 60 — 1045 10 AO 14 — 2 80 = 11 215 11 20 15 — 3 as = 12 — 12 — 16 — 3 20 — 12 93/4 12 80 17 — 3 AO — 13 7 13 60 18 — 3 60 14 5 14 AO 19 — 3 80 = 15. |} lle 15 20 20 <= A a 16 — 16 — 25 — 5 _ it — — 20 — 100 = 20 — 4A — — 80 — Distances. Since the consolidation of the Kingdom of Italy the French métre system has been in use throughout the country, but the old Italian miglio (pl. le miglia) is still sometimes preferred to the new kilo- metre. One kilométre is equal to 0.62138, or nearly 5/gths, of an English mile. The Tuscan miglio is equal to 1.65 kilométre or 1 M. 44 yds.; the Roman miglio is equal to 1.49 kilométre or 1630 yds. e ge ie ee i Sohtna RR me “ - ©, Denard Ua Z vi Scala nel 1:1900.000 Deutsche geegraph Heil. 4 1 Grd. 24 © 1:0 € eae Atalienirche Mighian 00-1 Gra 0 OS 20 25 8630 a | Ladtie Rilometres A | |Gendpe "“} 7 0 90-29 90 is te 16 at } 2 #2 FF 20-25 30 IB $0 95 5B SS OO ar ¥ Villenenpe Bows ra. \ ; eo My Spalimbersy fd : y x, ¢ « wae Azzano ° A e oPasiane ' Morseno ie tc Lute OF if ’ A } Villa | eh, \ °Breganz SY = y } Bwiryk een Ge C ? 4 sé J Cargna ’ ; \ ; Tue a. ; ‘\Woventa® / A ~S Gall? PS See ce be RAILE RS < { ; 4 Wo plndomo Ea De said Ga i J Zi ei Bes Fe AN By \ § ih WYP ; a é ‘tineato i larpi ano-*o\\Mo mb Castano Y F a \ 2 R \ i } : Ong pon Rh \ j 2 6 - L 6 ardoro | 1 REO : oN js : as’ is a) \ y at ies \ : as tags ~ | , > i{ / 3 \ vt Hamonte ¢ “Os ar ae eS ae \ J Png Destrizat i & 22 . 2 Se 4 / \ 7 oh je at , : I : jOtrams ° gat pes SAAS f | A ; ) det Teh ie £\\ deep 3 er Rivarold fay ee, ‘ BWA a ; D troy € 4 MOYO htc 2 CR ILn : Teoio 4 = q op ‘ \ j : pees Ve En a ae bs, | Stadefe AV ed tg ay 25 <2 rol Dz AE Ne, 2S Cald Me pe CELLA, , rN P % se 5 NS Grantanay alegg eer on daggp es 19 :; | a \& fi Bone Sone y astele A TOR IT \ -N sola dello aney ’ t ; ) \! Lale’ a ; a GoFredo SA. Corky S i pverbella® sla ‘ ne ; A ¢ —Tgsteglone 5 alee M\ , 1 rs E e : y : i Le Makerirolg< . a we. # ' Conselve Pontes Gaurlasco— < Virenelic, e - a ighe: ¢ 4 pr ____Ps 2 Noy \. inn 2 Lavarzere/ SMartino — - ‘ ‘ > er < FRE; i, 3 | Laver \ 6 Eile cae . ic hes ba : — —— Lin ho, 3 : rs ee “fe a cai Fae Neal Castel ) P ff SP ee SE be DF aS AS 2 “ of A Cisteggie S triovannt PIAGEN es \ red siizestra — larignarg \e = is \ 4 | } : j r 8 Ok “. t 7 za a ra / 6) PT 7 Pit z Ce ie : . < \ Wodzuarsco ( z : = RS mastylla { . ORTONA, 4 Nov on Ye ’ So bP formolo ~ Ss Urba. S S! Ss WSS OTLO Sw € secs Yass Uonca rs és M AR E LS CUUL y YAN 3 E Correggit erravalle ¢ = > i }\ A re \ - = a =r IT'LO \ ; \ aA R M t : j j \ “SAWS ti YRS, ca RLY CTO wy; oie < ie y ; : = Fornovos ANE 6 WortecchioF Lis (NGS oF Cy 4 ° G j q ; a | . ‘ Z LOPE i dé, 4 = AS \ T i & “Trabers toto | [= 2 ies! p y ¥ / NS Men GAG WAND \ OR, | Le A aff ® BS Polo Syandrang™ See aL Bode ew § Yi wa Paptteco wip LSet Torres Melori ®))) ell Ll Gergena i s A ty ay \ VTE | j vr a agner & Debes ,Leipag Geograph. Anstalt von a —- -_— ee Pe ALY. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K. BAEDEK ER. FIRST PART: NORTHERN ITALY, INCLUDING LEGHORN, FLORENCE, RAVENNA, THE ISLAND OF CORSICA, AND ROUTES THROUGH FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, AND AUSTRIA. Wir 15 Maps anp 32 PLans. SIXTH REMODELLED EDITION. LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKER. LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE W. 1882. All rights reserved. 4 a Se seinen Suliiiensomeiae — — Ee eee ———— = — ‘Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all.’ CHAUCER. } 1 ss, A ry 4 mm HF : ‘3 } Set ge OP RY AGE The objects of the Handbook for Italy, which consists of three volumes, each complete in itself, are to supply the trav- eller with some information regarding the culture and art of the people he is about to visit, as well as regarding the nat- ural features of the country, to render him as independent as possible of the services of guides and valets-de-place, to pro- tect him against extortion, and in every way to aid him in deriving enjoyment and instruction from his tour in one of the most fascinating countries in the world. The Handbook will also, it is hoped, be the means of saving the traveller many a trial of temper; for there is probably no country in Europe where the patience is more severely taxed than in some parts of Italy. The Handbook is founded on the Editor's personal ac- quaintance with the places described, most of which he has repeatedly and carefully explored. As, however, changes are constantly taking place, he will highly appreciate any communications with which travellers may kindly favour him, if the result of their own observation. The information already received from numerous correspondents, which he gratefully acknowledges, has in many cases proved most serviceable. The present volume, corresponding to the ninth German edition, has, like its predecessor, been thoroughly revised and considerably augmented. Its contents have been divided into groups of routes arranged historically and geographically (Piedmont, Liguria, Lombardy, Venetia, The Emilia, and Tuscany), each group being provided with a prefatory outline of the history of the district. Each section is also prefaced with a list of the routes it contains, and may be removed from the volume and used separately if desired. PREFACE. The Editor is indebted to Professor A. Springer for the in- troductory article on Art, which has special reference to Nor- thern Italy and Florence, and for the art-historical notices pre- fixed to the description of the larger towns and principal pic- ture-galleries. The admirable works of Messrs. Crowe and Ca- valcaselle have also been laid extensively under contribution. The MAps and PLANS, upon which special care has been bestowed, will abundantly suffice for the use of the ordinary traveller. HeIGHTS are given in English feet (1 Engl. ft. = 0,3048 metre), and DistANCES in English miles (comp. p. ii). The POPULATIONS are given from the most recent official sources. HOTELS (comp. p. xviii). Besides the modern palatial and expensive establishments, the Handbook also contains a se- lection of modest, old-fashioned inns, which not unfrequently afford good accommodation at moderate charges. The asterisks indicate those hotels which the Editor has reason to believe from his own experience, as well as from information supplied by numerous travellers, to be respectable, clean, and reason- able. ‘The value of these asterisks, it need hardly be observed, varies according to circumstances, those prefixed to town hotels and village inns signifying respectively that the establishments are good of their kind. At the same time the Editor does not doubt that comfortable quarters may occasion- ally be obtained at inns which he has not recommended or even mentioned. The average charges are stated in accord- ance with the Editor’s own experience, or from the bills furnished to him by travellers. Although changes frequently take place, and prices generally have an upward tendency, the approximate statement of these items which is thus supplied will at least enable the traveller to form an estimate of his probable expenditure. To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and courtesy towards travellers forms the sole passport to his commend- ation, and that advertisements of every kind are strictly ex- cluded from his Handbooks. II. IT. IV. VI. VII. VIII. IX. XI. XI. Route ee ee 8 Se 15. 16. 18, 19. CONTENTS. Introduction. Travelling Expenses. Money Period and Plan of Tour Language Passports. Beggars . Prices and Gratuities $ Railways Hotels : ; Restaurants, Cafés, Osterie : Sights, Theatres, etc. Post Office. Telegraph Climate. Health ; History of Art, by Prof. A. Springer Custom-house. Luggage I. Routes to Italy. From Paris to Nice by Lyons ané Marseilles From Paris (Geneva) to Turin by Mont Cenis From Martigny to Arona over the Simplon ; From Lucerne to Lugano. St. Gotthard Railway . From Coire to Colico over the Spligen From Innsbruck to Verona by the Brenner From Vienna (Bruck) to Venice. From Vienna to Trieste. Semmering Railway . Il. Piedmont Turin . From Turin to ‘Aosta. AL tae , . From Turin to Milan by Novara ‘ From Arona to Genoa . From Turin to Piacenza by Alessandria , . From Turin to Genoa Ill. Liguria Genoa : i SRR ty ee ge From Genoa to Nic e. -Rintera di Ponente . Nice and its Environs . From Nice to Turin by the Col a Renda From Genoa to Pisa. Riviera di Levante IV. emia Milan : From Milan to Catan: nd ane , Pontebba Railw ay Page sO 23 247 29 36 44 AS 54 59 60 73 rir re! 80 of Sd 86 100 { LO Vill Route 39. From Vicenza to Treviso. riser... RietcO! Artiste...) .. CONTENTS. 27. From 23. From Milan to Voghera by Pavia. 29. From Milan to Mantua vid Cremona 30. From Milan to Bergamo .. . ; 31. From Milan to Verona .. . é o2, The Lago di Garda .°) 2... : Gort Brescia? (> 2S 80R? AS 34. From Brescia to Tirano. Lago d’Iseo., V. Venetia BO; Verona: 2 4 tt onus 6 fae 36. From Verona to Mantua and Modena 37. From Verona to Venice. Vicenza eee LSE) Ci ee ee Ry & Monte From Padua to Bassano 22. From Milan to Bellagio. The Brianza ; BO Lake OF COU meee. 5. sre 3 ee 24. From the Lake of Como to the Lago Maggiore. Lugano and the Lake of Lugano . . : +s Tie were 25. From Milan to Varese and Arona. ; ewe eS 26. Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands. . .. . : Stresa to Varallo. Monte Motterone. Lake of Orta Certosa di Pavia . Aprica . ayy Venice. . dita sie. Ye at vile OSS A1. From Venice to Trieste . . ‘ , hela VI. The Emilia } 12. From Milan to Bologna, Piacenza. Reggio BS. Parmak witest sudomot. .o TAS aid a> Modena” . {24 radiata g 1a AS. From Padua to Bologna. . . bis : : AG Ferrara’). 43°35. . 180% : - 1) ean Wt > BOW ona 7 bes had, so 34 Bt ee le 48. From Bologna to Ravenna. : ; A9,. From Bologna to Florence . ; : : ee. VIL.’ Tuscany*:'))°')) 9) 03 pe 50. From (Genoa) Leghorn to Florence by Pisa and Empoli 92. From Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja See tek POTN CE uti tg Soh tel : oe Ae D4. Environs of Florence. . ... + tb, VIII. Corsica? “) 9" eee JAW Pe REO h Ba - «hie ene From Ajaccio to Bastia . . . ye ; enh bE ee Pe SO seer te oie aoa a i vr Page 149 154 160 165 167 173 176 180 182 185 186 189 196 197 199 209 214 219 226 228 277 283 285 290 289 299 302 306 323 333 355 338 341 351 364 4A A53 ADd5 457 464 A84 MAPS. Maps. General Map of North Italy (1: 1,900,000): before the title. The S. French Railways from Lyons to Nice (1 : 300,000): p.&. The Eastern Environs of Turin (1: 66,200): p. 64. 5. The Riviera di Ponente from Genoa to Mentone (1 : 500,000) : pp. 100, 104. 6. The Environs of Nice (1: 114,000): between pp. 114, 115. 7. The Riviera di Levante from Genoa to Spezia (1 : 500,000): Bovri9. 8. The Lakes of Como and Lugano (1 : 250,000) : p. 150. 9, Lago Maggiore and Lago d@ Orta (4 : 250,000): p. 168. 10. The Environs of Pavia (1: 86,400): p. ih A 11. Lago di Garda (1 :500,000): p. 186. 12. The Environs of Bologna (1: 86,400): p. 322. 13. The Environs of Ravenna (1: 86,400): p. 323. {4. The Environs of Florence (1:55,000): between pp. 440, 441. 15. The Island of Corsica (4 : 1,350,000): p. 453. = OW — ; Plans of Towns. {. Avignon (1:10,000). — 2. Bergamo (4: 25,000). — 3. Bo- logna (1: 13,350). — 4. Brescia (1: 16,000). — 5H, Cremona (1:45,000). — 6. Ferrara (1: 20,0005. —7. Florence (1: 10,000). — 8. Genoa (1 :13,500), with Environs. — 9. Leghorn (1 : 28,000). — 10. Lucea (1 : 27,000). — 11. Lyons (1: 25,000). — 12. Milan (4 :17,500).—13. Mantua (1 :18,000),.—14. Marseilles (1 : 27,000). — 15. Modena (4 : 12,000). — 16. Nimes (4 : 13,000). — 17. Nice : 19,000). — 18. Novara (4 : 12,500). — 19. Padua (4 : 22,500). 20. Parma (1 : 16,000). —24. Pavia (4 : 20,000), — 22. Piacensa : 20,000). — 23. Pisa (1 : 8500). — 24. Pistoja (1: 15,600). — 25. Ravenna (1 : 11,150), — 26. Reggio(1: 14,000), with Environs. — 27. Trent (1 :12,500). — 28. Trieste (1:16,700), with En- virons. — 29. Turin (4: 23,500). — 30. Venice (1 : 15,000), with Environs. — 31. Verona (1: 411,500). — 32. Vicenza (1: 18,000). — | ——_ 1 ~ Abbrevations. M. = Engl. mile. E. = east, etc. hrs = hour. W. = west, etc: min. = minute. Riv==yn0 omni. Alb. = Albergo (hotel). B. = breakfast. Omn. = omnibus. [KD eaeOdnte rs N. = north, northwards, northern.| A. = attendance. S. = south, etc. plitieightt DistTaNces. The number prefixed to the name of a place on a railway or high-road indicates its distance in English miles from the starting- point of the route or sub-route. AsTERISKs. Objects of special interest, and hotels which are believed worthy of special commendation, are denoted by asterisks, [86L. L864. L866. 1866. L867. 1870. 1878. CHRONOLOG. TABLE. Chronological Table of Recent Events. 1846. June 16. Election of Pius IX. 1848. March 18. Insurrection at Milan. 22. Charles Albert enters Milan. - 22. Republic proclaimed at Venice. May 15. Insurrection at Naples quelled by Ferdinand II. (‘Re Bomba’). - 29. Radetzky’s victory at Curtatone. - 30. Radetzky defeated at Goito; capitulation of Peschiera. July 25. Radetzky’s victory at Custozza. Aug. 6. Radetzky’s victory at Milan. - 9. Armistice. Nov. 15. Murder of Count Rossi at Rome. 25. Flight of the Pope to Gaeta. . Febr. 5. Republic proclaimed at Rome. - (7. Republic proclaimed in Tuscany, under Guerazzi. March 16. Charles Albert terminates the armistice (ten days’ campaign). - 23. Radetzky’s victory at Novara. - 4. Charles Albert abdicates ; accession of Victor Emmanuel II. - 26. Armistice; Alessandria occupied by the Austrians. - $l. Haynau conquers Brescia. April 5. Republic at Genoa overthrown by La Marmora. - 41. Reaction at Florence. - 380. Garibaldi defeats the French under Oudinot. May 15. Subjugation of Sicily. July 4. Rome capitulates. Aug. 6. Peace concluded between Austria and Sardinia. 22. Venice capitulates. . April 4. Pius IX. returns to Rome. Sardinia takes part in the Crimean War. Congress at Paris. Cavour raises the Italian question. J. May 20. Battle of Montebello. June A. Battle of Magenta. . June 24. Battle of Solferino. July 11. Meeting of the emperors at Villafranca. Nov. 10. Peace of Zurich. . March 18. Annexation of the Emilia (Parma, Modena, Romagna). - 22. Annexation of Tuscany. - 24. Cession of Savoy and Nice. May 11. Garibaldi lands at Marsala. - 27. Taking of Palermo. July 20. Battle of Melazzo. Sept. 7. Garibaldi enters Naples. - 18. Battle of Castelfidardo. - 29. Ancona capitulates. Oct. l. Battle of the Volturno. - 21, Plebiscite at Naples. Dec. 17. Annexation ofthe principalities, Umbria, and the two Sicilies. Febr. 13. Gaeta capitulates after a four months’ siege. March 17. Victor Emmanuel assumes the title of king of Italy. June 6. Death of Cavour. Sept. 15. Convention between France and Italy. June 20. Battle of Custozza. July 5. Cession of Venetia. = 20. Naval battle of Lissa. Nov. 3. Battle of Mentana. Sept. 20. Occupation of Rome by Italian troops. Oct. 9. Rome declared the capital of Italy. Jan. 9. Death of Victor Emmanuel IJ.; accession of Humbert I, Feb. 7. Death of Pius IX. Feb, 20, Election of Leo XIII. INTRODUCTION. ‘Thou art the garden of the world, the home Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree; B’en in thy desert, what is like to thee? Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste More rich than other climes’ fertility, Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced.’ BYRON. I. Travelling Expenses. Money. Expenses. The cost of a tour in Italy depends of course on the traveller’s resources and habits, but, as a rule, it need not exceed that incurred in other much frequented parts of the continent. The average tae of a single traveller, when in Italy, may be estimated at 25-30 francs per day, or at 12-15 francs when a pro- longed stay is made at one place; but persons acquainted with the language and habits of the country may easily restrict their ex- peuses to still narrower limits. Those who travel as members of a party effect a considerable saving by sharing the expense of guides, sarriages, and other items. When ladies are of the party, the ex- penses are generally greater. Money. The French monetary system is now in use throughout the whole of Italy. The franc (lira or franco) contains 100 centesimi ; { fr. 25e. = 1s. = 1 German mark = 5O Austrian kreutzers. In copper (bronzo or rame) there are coins of 1, 2,5, and 10 centesimi. A piece of 5c. is called a soldo, or sou, and as the lower classes of- ten keep their accounts in soldi, the traveller will find it useful to accustom himself to this mode of reckoning. See also the Money Table opposite the title-page. During the war of 1866 a paper currency was introduced at a compulsory rate of exchange. and for many years gold and silver almost completely disappeared from ordinary circulation. In 1880, however, a measure was passed for the gradual redemption of the banknotes, and the government loan of 450 million franes for this purpose has been taken up with such avidity, that the extreme date fixed for the complete substitution of a gold currency (the end of 1883) will probably be anticipated. The exchange in favour of gold, which formerly amounted to 8-10 or even to 15 per cent., has already sunk to 1!/5-3 per cent. The only banknotes which arp current throughout the whole country are those of the Banca Nazionale and the so-called Biglietti gia Consorziali, formerly issued in common by six banks but now taken over by the government. Other notes should be refused. TRAVELLING EXPENSES. MONEY. Best Monry For THE Tour. Circular Notes, obtainable at the principal English banks, form the proper medium for the transport of large sums, and realise the most favourable exchange. English and German banknotes also realise more than their nominal value. A moderate supply of French Gold will also be found desirable. Sovereigns are received at the full value (about 26-28 fr.) by the principal hotel-keepers, but not in out-of-the-way places. EXcHANGE. Foreign money is most advantageously changed in the larger towns, either at one of the English bankers or at a re- spectable money-changer’s (‘cambiavaluta’ ). As arule, those money- changers are the most satisfactory who publicly exhibit a list of the current rates of exchange. The traveller should always be provided with an abundant supply of small notes (1, 2, and 5 fr.), as it is often difficult to change those of large amount. When a railway- fare has to be paid it is a wise precaution to be provided with the exact sum beforehand in order that mistakes or imposition may be prevented. Besides the small notes, 1-11/y) fr. in copper should also be carried in a separate pocket or pouch. Money Orders payable in Italy, for sums not exceeding 101., are now granted by the English Post Office at the following rates: up to Ql., 9d. ; dl., Is. 6d.; Tl., 28. 3d.; 101., 3s. These are paid in gold. The identity of the receiver must sometimes be guaranteed by two well-known resi- dents, but an exhibition of the passport often suffices. The charge for money-orders granted in Italy and payable in England is 40c. per 1. sterling. A convenient and safe method of carrying money for a journey in Italy is afforded by the Libretti di Recognizione Postale, which may be procured at the post-offices of the principal Italian towns for any sum not exceeding 10,000 fr. (4001.). The holder of one of these small books may then draw what sum he requires (from 200 fr. upwards) at any post- office in the kingdom, until the amount for which the book ig issued has been exhausted. In case of loss the traveller should immediately inform the postal authorities, giving his name and the number of the book, when measures will at once be taken to stop payment. II. Period and Plan of Tour. Season. As a general rule the spring and autumn months are the best season for a tour in N. Italy, especially May and Sep- tember, before or after the heat of summer has attained its climax. Winter in Lombardy and Piedmont is generally a much colder season than it is in England, but Nice and the whole of the Riviera, Pisa, and Venice afford pleasant and sheltered quarters. The height of summer can hardly be recommended for travelling. The scenery, indeed, is then in perfection, and the long days are hailed with satisfaction by the enterprising traveller; but the fierce rays of an Italian sun seldom fail to impair the physical and mental energies. This result is not occasioned so much by the intensity as by the protracted duration of the heat, the sky being frequently cloudless and not a drop of rain falling for many weeks in succession. The heat generally moderates about the end of August, when the first showers of autumn begin to refresh the parched atmosphere. PERIOD AND PLAN OF TOUR. xiii Plan. The traveller's movements must of course be regulated in accordance with the objects he has in view, and with the time and money at his command. ‘The chief centres of attraction in N. Italy are Milan, Venice, Genoa, and Florence. The following short itinerary, beginning and ending at Milan, though very far from exhaustive of the beauties of N. Italy, includes most of the places usually visited, with the time required for a glimpse at each. Days Milan (R. 20), and excursion to Pavia (the Certosa, R. 28) . . . 2!/e To the Lago di Como, Lago di ng oe Os and Lago Ey (RR. 2 mi 24, 26) and on to Turin . . rae. bs Dat 21/2 Turin (Rs 9). oc. fehiTeiKIOlel:. 20.0. oe From Turin to Genoa (R. 44 a or 14 b) : - otf Genoa (R. 15), and excursion to Pegli (Villa Pallavi icini. P. 101) ble? Via Spezia to Pisa, see R. 19; Pisa (R. 51) . . v PET Via Lucca and Pistoja to Florence, eee LReiD2 suUeOs OlLeooud Bt Ciena? (te (Sy), Mie ea, Py eee aly ien ce aR ma ws A oe Syn: PEOmMeeNOTenee TOebGlOonaA (ha 40) ps 0s ok Me lc) tree ee teh ee Bologna (R. AGM oY pte eae ee ae ores Cena AoE a il lp Excursion to Ravenna (R. “AS) of EDs south From Bologna via Ferrara (R. 46) to Padua, see R. 45 ore Yuet Aa | {Or to Modena (R. AL) and Parma (R. 43), see R. 42... {1/2 From Modena via Mantua to Verona (see R. 36) and via Vicenza to Padua (see KR. eae ee ee a el ER ee Coos oor ks ome eae On Padua (R. 38), and thence to Venice Aer et Gi ie a ee! Venice (R. 40) . . Tae eA. From Venice (via Vicenza) to Verona (R. 35), see R. " 37 PS or 2 [Excursion to Mantua (p. 210), when the way from Modena to Verona via Mantua is not adopted le dia Hotton Wo Abbi) 20 Lago di Garda (R. S2)F si) 1 From Peschiera via Brescia (R. 33) and Ber gamo to Milan (RR. 34, 30) 4 To those who wish to visit only a part of North Italy (whether the eastern or western), the following itineraries may be recom- mended : — a. Eastern Part, starting from the Brenner Railway. Days From Trent or Mori to Riva (p. 46), ae di Garda &; 32) tae EE Verona (R. 35) . , ee : ye ee. Excursion to Mantua (p. 210) 3 iH cURL GR tS From Verona via Vicenza (p. 215) to Padua 1 : Padua (R. 38), and thence to Venice 1 Venice (R. 40) . . Phos dite eee oe From Venice via Ferrara (R. 46) to Bologna. bts Ba: Tormented: Bologna (R. 47) eS a ee ee 1 1 1 Excursion to Ravenna (R. ‘48) : fie ; From Bologna to Modena (R, 4A) and Parma (a. 43), | see R. 42 . Lf, From Parma vid Piacenza (p. 285) to Milan . . Todo he seve tats ee Milan (R. 20), and excursion to Pavia (the Cer tosa, RE eo), Fe pete Lago Maggiore, Lago di Lugano, Lago di Como (RR. 23, 24, 26) and from Lecco via Bergamo and Brescia (R. 33) to roeOn A
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| constructed from plans by the engineer Poggio, called the **Viale dei
Palazzo Torrigiani. FLORENCE. 53. Route. 441
ANTE-CHAMBER: 1. Luca della Robbia, Portrait in relief. — To the left:
I. Room: 7. Andrea del Castagna, Portrait; 9. Lorenzo di Credi, Portrait ;
“11. Signorelli, Portrait of a man in a red cap; 20. Pollajuolo, Portrait;
21. 22. Portraits; *23. Domenichino, Landscape; 31-34. Filippino Lippi,
History of Esther. — To the right: CaBrnet: 5 and 6. Triumph of David,
by Pesellino (‘cassoni’, or lids of chests). To the left of the 1st Room is
the — II. Room: 8. 9. 22. Pinturicchio, Legend; *7, Madonna and Child, a
16th cent. copy from Raphael (original in the Bridgewater Gallery); 11.
13, Uecello, Procession of Argonauts, and Starting for the hunt; 10. Andrea
del Sarto(?), Holy Family; 23. Garafalo, Samaritan Woman. — III. Room:
9. Tintoretto, Resurrection. — On the other side of the ante-chamber are
three rooms (occupied by the family, and therefore not always accessible)
with fine Dutch paintings. — The secretary also grants permission to
visit the beautiful Giardino Torrigiani, Via dei Serragli (Pl. A ends
The small church of 8. Lucia (Pl. E, 7) in the adjoining Via de’
Bardi contains a relief by the della Robbia above the door, and an
*Annunciation by Fra Filippo Lippi (1st Altar on the left).
In the neighbourhood is the Palazzo Canigiani, with a fine court
in which there is an Abundantia, and a staircase with a curious
central post by Donatello ; in the interior a Madonna by S. Botticelli.
Farther on, No, 28, is the Palazzo Capponi, built for Niccold da
Uzzano by Lorenzo di Bicci.,
The Lune’ Arno Srrristori, between the Ponte alle Grazie
and the Porta S. Niccold, contains the monument of Prince Demidoff
(Pl. F, 7), to whose philanthropy Florence was much indebted,
erected by Bartolini in 1870, and a marble Caritu by Bartolozzi,
presented by the prince.
Farther on is the church of 8. Niccolo (Pl. F, 7), founded about
the year 1000. At the back of the high-altar are four saints by
Gentile da Fabriano. The sacristy contains a Madonna della Cin-
tola by A. Pollajuolo, 1450 (lunette); below it a Madonna and
saints by Neri di Bicci. In 1530, after the capitulation of the town
to the Medici (p. 372), Michael Angelo lay concealed for a time
in the tower of this church.
54. Environs of Florence.
Compare Map. The small numbers, which are marked on it round
the town, designate the boundary of the local imposts (Cinta daziaria):
1. Barriera di Lung’ Arno Nuovo; 2. B. delle Cascine; 3. B. Pistojese;
4. B. S. Donato; 5. B. del Mercato; 6. B. del Romito; 7. B. del Ponte
Rosso; 8. B. delle Cure; 9. B. delle Forbici; 10. B. della Fonte all’ Erba;
11. B. dell’ Affrico; 12. B. Settignanese ; 13. B. Aretina; 14. B. Ponte di
Ferro di S. Niccold; 15. B. Porta S. Niccolo; 16. B. Porta S. Miniato; 17.
B. Porta S. Giorgio; 18. B. Porta Romana; 19. B. Porta S. Frediano.
The heights surrounding Florence afford many charming views
of the city and neighbourhood, and some of the edifices erected on
them also deserve notice. Those who make some stay at Florence will
find ample scope for excursions in every direction. The afternoon
is the most favourable time, as the city and environs are often
veiled in haze in the forenoon.
(A.) One of the finest promenades in Italy, a hilly road recently
a
442 Route 54. VIALE DEI COLLI. Environs
Colli, ascends the heights in windings from the Porta Romana (PI.
A, 7), the S. gate of Florence, leads along the slopes to S. Miniato,
and descends in a long curve to the river, where it terminates at
the upper Ponte di Ferro, near the Porta 8. Niccold (Pl. G, 8).
This road, which is 19 yds. wide and nearly 33/4 M. in length, is
bordered with beautiful pleasure-grounds, containing bays, elms,
sycamores, and hedges of roses, over which delightful views are ob-
tained. The road is called the Viale Macchiavelli from the Porta
Romana to the large circular Piazzale Galilei, beyond which it bears
the name of Viale Galilei. At the beginning of the latter is the
Restaurant Bonciani (p. 366). Below S. Miniato the road passes the
large *Piazzale Michelangelo (Pl. F, G, 8), forming a kind of pro-
jecting terrace immediately above the Porta S. Niccold (Pl. H, 8),
to which footpaths and roads descend, In the centre of the Piazza
rises a bronze copy of Michael Angelo’s David (p. 417), the pedestal
of which is surrounded by the four periods of the day (p. 421).
Charming **Virw hence of the town and the valley of the Arno: to
the right, on the hill, lies Fiesole; then the city with S. Croce, the
Cathedral, S. Lorenzo, the Palazzo Vecchio, S. Maria Novella, and
the Lung’ Arno; to the left are the villa-covered heights, the For-
tezza del Belvedere, Bello Sguardo, and the Villa Giramonte. — A
drive by the Viale dei Colli, from one gate to the other, occupies
1-11/, hr. (carriages, see p. 366; comp. also p. 443).
(B.) San Mintato, with its marble fagade, on the hill to
the S.E. of Florence, is a conspicuous object from many different
points. It may be reached by carriage (p. 366) or on foot in less
than 1/9 hr. The route from the Porta S. Niccold by the Piazzale
Michelangelo (see above) cannot be mistaken. A little beyond the
gate we reach the Franciscan monastery of 8. Salvatore del Monte,
with a church erected by Cronaca in 1504, the simple and chaste
proportions of which were deservedly praised by Michael Angelo,
who called it ‘la bella villanella’. To the left of the high-altar is
a Pieta by Giov. della Robbia. — We now turn to the left towards
the gateway of the old fortifications, constructed by Michael Angelo
in 1529 as engineer to the republic, and which were defended by
him during an eleven months’ siege of the city by the Imperial troops.
Visitors knock at the gate, and on leaving give the gate-keeper a few
soldi. The church and the whole hill of S. Miniato are now used
as a burial-ground (fine views). The monuments show the taste
of the modern Florentine sculptors, who lay great stress upon an
accurate rendering of clothes, lace, ornaments, and the like, and
whose skill in this department finds numerous admirers.
The church of *8. Miniato al Monte, like the Battistero (p. 394),
is one of the few existing examples of the Pisan Florentine style
which preceded the Gothic, and probably dates mainly from the
12th century. It is a structure of admirable proportions, with nave
and aisles, without a transept, and is in many respects a truly
|
}
of Florence. §. MINIATO AL MONTE. 54. Route. 443
classical edifice. The elegantly-incrusted fagade dates from the
12th, the mosaics with which it is adorned from the 13th century.
The tower was restored by Baccio d’ Agnolo in 1519.
The INTERIOR, recently restored, rests on 12 columns (some of them
antique) of white, and 3 handsome pillars of greenish grey marble, and
has an open roof, tastefully re-decorated in the original style. The choir
with its simple apse is raised by a spacious crypt beneath. — To the left
of the entrance is the monument of the satirist, Giuseppe Giusti.
AtstEs. On the wall on the right, Enthroned Madonna‘and six saints
by Paolo degli Stefani (14th cent.); on the left a Madonna with saints and
a Crucifixion, of the beginning of the 15th century. In the Nave, be-
tween the flights of steps (16) ascending to the choir, is a chapel con-
structed in 1448 by Piero de’ Medici from a design, by Michelozzo; on the
frieze appears the device of the Medicis, consisting of three feathers in a
diamond-ring with the legend ‘Semper’. Over the altar is the small cru-
cifix which is said to have nodded approvingly to S. Giovanni Gualberto
when he forgave the murderer of his brother (p. 450). In the Lerr AIsLe
is the Chapel of S. Giacomo, constructed soon after 1459 by Antonio Rossel-
lino and ornamented by the Della Robbia and Antonio Pollajuolo, containing
the monument of Cardinal Jacopo of Portugal (d. 1459); above the mon-
ument a *Madonna and Child in a medallion held by two angels; on the
ceiling the Four Virtues by Luca della Robbia. — The *Crypr, to which a
flight of seven steps descends, does not rest on the four columns and two
pillars which are prolonged in the choir above, but on 28 smaller columns
of graceful form, some of them ancient. Beneath the altar here is the tomb
of S. Miniato. — The front-wall of the crypt, the screen of the choir, the
apse, the whole wall of the nave, and the pulpit present beautiful specimens
of incrusted marble-work. The upper part of the ApsE is adorned with
a mosaic of S. Miniato before the Saviour, executed in 1297, recently
restored. The five windows under the arches are closed with semi-
transparent slabs of marble. Over an altar on the right, the portrait of S.
Giovanni Gualberto (see above). — On the S. side of the choir is the
Sacristy (closed), erected in 1387 in the Gothic style, adorned with
sixteen *Frescoes from the life of St. Benedict (his youth, ordination at
Subiaco, miracles, etc.) by Spinello Aretino (d. 1410), a clever pupil of
Giotto, whose style is studied to advantage here. Below them, admirable
inlaid work in wood. — The beautiful mosaic pavement (niello, executed,
according to an inscription, in 1207) also deserves inspection.
A visit to S. Miniato may be conveniently combined with a
drive on the Viale dei Colli. A walk to the Piazzale Michelangelo,
S. Salvatore del Monte, S. Miniato, and thence to the Torre del
Gallo (see below), and back by the Poggio Imperiale to the Porta
Romana (p. 442), will take about 3 hrs. in all.
(C.) Poaato IMpERIALE. Immediately to the left, outside the
Porta Romana (Pl. A, 7), begins the Viale dei Colli, mentioned at
p- 442. To the right of it a fine avenue of lofty cypresses, evergreen
oaks, and larches, embellished with a few statues, leads in 20 min.
to the Villa Poggio Imperiale. It was thus named and almost en-
tirely fitted up by Magdalene of Austria, wife of Cosimo II., and
afterwards adorned with various works of art, which were removed
in 1860. The handsome edifice is now occupied by the Jnstituto
della SS. Annunziata, a girls’ school, and is not accessible.
The road now divides: that to the right leads to Galluzzo and
the Certosa (see below); that to the left (soon passing a group of
houses, following the Via del Pian Giullari, and ascending the
height, where at a bifurcation of the road, a bye-road in a straight
oe
444 Route 54. LA CERTOSA. — Environs
direction is to be followed) leads to the Torre del Gallo, so called
after a family of that name, and containing various reminiscences
of Galileo, who from this tower is said to have made several im-
portant astronomical observations. Fine *Panorama (fee). — S.
Miniato is about 25 minutes walk from this point (comp. Map).
The road to the right passes (1/s hr.) several houses and villas, among
which is the Villa of Galileo, marked by a bust and inscription, where
the great astronomer passed the last years of his life (1631-42), surrounded
by a few faithful friends and latterly deprived of sight, and where he
was visited by his illustrious contemporary Milton. — A short distance
hence, near the church of S. Margherita a Montici, stands the villa where
Francesco Guicciardint wrote his history of Italy. Here too, on 12th Aug.,
1530, the Florentines, who had been betrayed by their general Malatesta,
signed the articles by which the city was surrendered to the Imperial
troops and thus became subject to the rule of the Medici. From that
event the house derives its name Villa delle Bugie (‘villa of lies’).
(D.) LA CERTOSA IN THE VAL D’EMaA is 3 M. distant by the
high-road from the Porta Romana (Pl. A, 7; carr. 6fr.; omnibus
from Porta Romana every hour from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., 50c.). To
the right, as the height beyond the gate is ascended, rises the
church of S. Gaggio; farther on is the village of Galluzzo, beyond
which the brook Ema is soon reached. On the hill of Montaguto,
which is clothed with cypresses and olive-trees, at the confluence
of the Ema with the Greve, rises the imposing *Certosa di Val
ad’Ema, resembling a medieval fortress. The monastery, which is
approaching dissolution and contains a fewinmates only, was found-
ed in 1341 by Niccold Acciajuoli, a Florentine who had settled at
Naples and there amassed a large fortune by trading. The porter
(1-2 pers., 50 c.) shows the church, or rather the series of chapels
of which it consists, and the monastery with its various cloisters.
CuurcH. Magnificent pavement and fine carved stalls (of 1590); over
the altar, Death of St. Bruno, a fresco by Pocettii — *RiguT SIDE-
CHAPEL, in the form of a Greek cross, erected by Orcagna: to the left St.
Francis by Cigoli; SS. Peter the Martyr, George, Jerome, Francis, two
Madonnas, and the *Trinity, of the School of Giotto. A staircase to the left
descends to a chapel with the *Tombs of the Acctajuoli; monument of the
founder Niccold by Orcagna (1366); three monumental slabs, that of a
“Young Warrior by Donatello; tombstone of a cardinal of the family by
the same, the ornamentation by Giuliano da San Gallo. — We then return
through the church and enter the CLoIsTERS, with stained glass by Gio-
vanni da Udine. — To the right is the CoarteR House: *Mariotto Albertinelli,
Crucifixion (fresco of 1505); monument of Bishop Buonafide by Giuliano
da San Gallo. — We next enter the monastery-garden, which also serves
as a burial-ground, and is surrounded by handsome cloisters. Some of the
empty cells, which enclose the building like pinnacles, command
picturesque views, especially through the valley of the Ema towards
Prato and the Apennines. — At the Spezeria of the monastery good
Chartreuse and various perfumes may be purchased.
(E.) *Bello Sguardo, to the S.W. of Florence, is celebrated for
the delightful prospect it commands, which the traveller should on
no account fail to visit. From Porta Romana (Pl. A; 7) the town-
wall must be followed to the right and the second road to the
left taken. This first leads to an open space with the small
of Florence. BELLO SGUARDO. 54. Route. 445
church of S. Francesco di Paola, which contains the monument
of Benozzo Federighi, Bishop of Fiesole, by Luca della Robbia.
The carriage-road is then followed in a straight direction, and on
the height, where it divides, the road to the left is taken (a few
paces beyond this point the road to the Monte Oliveto diverges
to the right, see below). At the next bifurcation a side-path
to the left is followed, which in a few minutes leads to the
**Bello Sguardo (visitors ring; fee 2-3 soldi on leaving). The
view embraces Florence, with the Pitti Palace, S. Croce, the
Palazzo Vecchio, Or S. Michele, the cathedral, 8. Lorenzo, 5S.
Maria Novella, ete.; to the right, on the height, S. Miniato, op-
posite the spectator lies Fiesole; to the left, the populous valley of
the Arno, over which tower the distant Apennines. The view is
seen to the best advantage towards sunset. — In the vicinity is the
Villa degli Albizzi, with a bust of Galileo and an inscription to the
memory of that illustrious astronomer, who frequently resided here
and cultivated the garden with his own hands.
Those who wish to visit the Bello Sguardo from the Porta S. Frediano
follow the city-wall to the left and take the first road to the right, leading
to the above-mentioned church of St. Francesco.
(F.) Monte Oliveto. About 1/, M. beyond the Porta S. Frediano
(Pl. B, 4) the ‘Via di Monte Oliveto’ diverges to the left from the
Leghorn road, and reaches the entrance to the garden of the mon-
astery after 1/) M. (key to obtain access to the point of view, next
door, No. 6, 10-15¢.).
eas ee a
ee ee ee
Bacher Mts., the 53.
Badagnano 287.
Badelwand, the 52.
Baden 51.
Badia di Fiesole 448.
Bagnacavallo 323.
Bagni 299.
— di Bormio 158.
— di S. Giuliano 351.
— di Lucca. 356.
Bagnolo 180.
Bagueau, Island 21.
Balagna 460.
Balbianello, Villa (Lake
of Como) 154.
Baldichieri 81.
Baldo, Monte 47. 188.
Balerna 160.
Balfrin, the 27.
Balzola 77.
Bar, Le 23.
Baracea 121.
Baradello, Castello 4147.
Barcola 58.
Bard, Fort 74.
Bardolino 189.
Bardonnecchia 26.
Barenburg, the 38.
Barghe 188
Bargilio 357.
Barni 151.
Baro, Monte 159.
Barrasso 166.
S. Bartolommeo, Monte
187.
Baselga 46.
Bassano 227.
Bastia 459.
Batie, Chat. 25.
Battaglia 299.
—, Canale di 299.
Baveno 29. 171.
Beaucaire 13.
Beaulard 26.
Beaulieu 110. 116.
Beaune 4.
Becca di Nona, the 76.
Belbo, the 84.
Belfort 4.
Belgiojoso 179.
Belgirate 172.
Bellagio 154.
—, the Punta di 156.
159.
Bellano 156.
Bellegarde 24.
Bellinzago 79.
Bellinzona 35. At.
Belluna, Monte 227.
Belluno 278.
Belmonte, Villa 155.
Berceau, the 108.
Bergamasco 84,
|Bientina, Lago di 357.
|Bignone, Monte 105.
INDEX.
Bergamo 183.
Bergeggi, Promont. 102.
Berici, Monte 214. 217,
Berisal 28.
Bernabo 357.
S. Bernardino 41.
— (near Pallanza) 171.
S. Bernardino Pass,the41.
Berre, Etang de 17.
Besana, Villa 153.
Bésancon 9.
Besano 167.
Beseno, Castle 47.
Bettola 287.
Bevera, the 117.
Beverin, Piz 37.
Bezzecca 188.
Biacesa 188.
S. Biagio, Isola di 186.
Bianco Canal, the 301.
Biandrone, Lago di 166.
Bianze 77.
Biasca 34.
Biaschina 34,
Bibbiena 451.
Biella 77.
Binago 166.
Binasco 176.
Bironico 35.
Bisagno, the 88. 119.
Bisbino, Monte 153.
Bisenzio, the 362. 364.
Bissone 161.
Bistagno 82. |
Bisuschio 166.
Biume Inferiore 166. |
Bizozero 166.
Blaisy-Bas 3.
Blegno, Val 34.
Blevio 149. 150.
Blumau 43. |
Boara 3800. |
Bobbio 287.
Bodio 34.
Boesio, the 166. 170.
Boglia, Monte 163.
Bogliaco 187.
Bogliasco 120.
Bogognano 458.
Bois-le-Roi 2.
Boletto 174.
Bolladore 158.
Bollate 146.
Bologna 306.
Accademia delle Belle
Arti 318
Antiquities, Museum of
Archives 310.
Archiginnasio 312.
Banca Nazionale 312.
Bologna:
S.Bartolommeo diPorta
Ravegnana 316.
Biblioteca Comun. 312.
Campo Santo 322.
Cassa di Risparmio 314.
Cathedral, see §.Pictro.
S. Cecilia 317.
Certosa 322. |
Collegio di Spagnaa13.
S. Domenico 312.
Foro de’ Mercanti 314.
S. Francesco 309.
Frati di S. Spirito 313.
Galvani’s Statue 341.
Geolog. Museum 318.
S. Giacomo Maggiore
Odie
Giardini Margherita
321.
S.Giovanni in Monte
315.
Giuoco di Pallone 307.
S. Giuseppe 322.
Guildhouse of the
Stracciatori 314.
History of Art 308.
Leaning Towers 344.
Library 291.
—, University 318.
Madonna di Galliera
314.
— del Baracano 316.
Madonna di S.Luca322.
S. Maria ai Servi 316.
S.MartinoMaggiored2l.
Mercato di Mezzo 3813.
Mezzaratta 322.
S. Michele in Bosco 322.
Montagnola, La 321.
Museo Civico 314,{
Orthopaedic Institute
322
Palazzo Albergati 322.
— Arcivescovile 314.
— Bacciocchi 3138.
— Bentivoglio 321.
— Bevilacqua-Vin-
cenzi 3138.
— Fantuzzi 317.
— Fava 314.
— Galvani 311.
— del Governo 309.
— Guidotti 312.
— Magnani-Guidotti
317.
— Malvezzi - Campeggi
317.
— — -Medici 317:
— Marescalchi 309.
— della Mercanzia 314,
— Pedrazzi 317.
Bologna:
Palazzo Pepoli 314.
— del Podesta 309.
— Pubblice 309.
— Sampieri 316.
INDEX.
ids
Bosaro 301.
Boscolungo 333.
|Bossea, Grotto of 84.
— Zambeccari di S.!Botzen 43.
Padlo 313.
S. Paolo 313.
S. Petronio 310.
Piazza d@’Armi 321.
— Cavour 312.
— del Nettuno 309.
— Rossini 317.
— Vittorio Emanuele
309.
S. Pietro 314.
Pinacoteca 348.
Portico de’ Banchi 310.
Rossini’s House 316.
S. Salvatore 309.
Servi 316.
S. Stefano 315.
Theatres 307. 318.
Torre Asinelli 314.
— Garisenda 314.
Tribunale 313.
University 315.
Via Rizzoli 313.
Villa Reale 322
S. Vitale ed Agricola
317.
Bolzanéto 83.
Bolzano (Piedmont) 79.
Bona, Val 188,
Bonaduz Be
Bonagsola 121.
S. Bonifacio 214.
— (Cors.) 457.
Borbone, the 81.
Bordighera 106.
Borgio Verezzi 102.
Borgo S. Agostino 152.
—a Bugiano 357.
— §. Dalmazzo 118.
— San Donnino 288.
— Lavezzaro 79.
— S. Martino 77.
— a Mozzano 356.
— Panigale 333.
— Sesia 175.
— Ticino 79.
— di Val Sugana AG,
— Vercelli 77.
— Vico 152.
Borgoforte 214.
Borgomanero 79.
Borgone 26.
Borgonure 287.
Borigli, the 109.
Bormida, the 82.
Bormida di Millesimo 84,
— di Spigno 84,
Bormio 158.
Bourg 23.
Bourget, Lac du 24.
Bourgogne, Canal de
Bouzoise, the 4.
Bovisa 146. 149.
Bovisio 149.
Bovolone 209.
Bozen 43.
Bozzolo 182.
Bra 83.
Bracco 121.
Brandizzo 77.
Brando 460.
Branzoll 44.
Braus, Col di 117.
Bre 163.
Monte 163.
Breeweils’ Val 39.
Breggia 152.
Breglio 117.
Breiten Tunnel 32.
Breitenstein 52.
Brembo, the 185.
Brenner 42.
Brennerbad 42.
Brennersee, the 42.
| Brenno, the 40.
Breno 196.
Brenzone 189.
Brescia. 189.
Bressana 180.
Bressanone 42.
Bresse 23.
|Briancon 26. 73.
|Brianza, the 449.
Brieg 27. 167.
Brienno 153.
|Briglia, la 364.
Brigue 27.
Briona 175.
Brione, Monte 188.
Brissago 169.
Bristenstock, the 31.
Brivio, the 167.
Brixen AQ.
Broni 81.
Brotteaux, Les 5.
Brou, Church of 24.
Brouis, Col di 117.
Brozzi 341.
Bruck 52.
Briihl, the 51.
| Brunato 152.
3runette, La 26.
Borromean Islands, the
Brenta, the 218 226.
Bristenlaui Tunnel 32,
Brixener Klause, the 42.
463
Brunn 5l.
Brunnen 31.
‘Bruno 84.
Brunoy 1.
Brusin 164.
Bruzzano 149.
Buccione 174.
Buchscheiden 49,
2.|Buco di Vela 46.
Buffalora, the Al.
Burano 277.
Biirglen 34.
Busalla 82.
Buscierina Tunnel 34.
Bussana 103.
Bussoleno 26.
Busto Arsizio 165.
Buttier, the 79.
Buttrio’ 281.
Cabbe 109.
Cabbiolo 41.
Cabiate 149.
Cabrole, Vallée 108.
Cadempino 36.
Cadenabbia 154.
Cadeo 288.
Cadenazzo 36.
Cadine 46.
Caesarea 324.
Caffaro, the 188.
Cagliatscha 38.
Cairo 82.
Calamandrana 84.
Calanca, Val At.
Calanda, the 36.
Calcababbio 180.
Calci, Valle dei 351.
Calcio 185.
‘alde 170.
Calderara, Villa 157.
Caldiero 214.
Caldonazzo 46.
Calenzana 460.
Calenzano 364.
Calliano 47.
Calolzio 149.
Caltignaga 79.
Caluso 73.
Calvaggione, Mte., see
Monte Generoso.
Calvi 460.
Calvo, Monte 113.
Cama Al.
Camaldoli 451.
Camargue, the 17.
Cambiano 81.
Camerlata 147.
Camnago 147. 150.
Camoghe, Monte 35. 161.
Camogli 120.
Camonica, Val 195.
Camnago 147.
——————
464
Camorino 35,
Campaldino 450.
Camperio AO.
Campi 188.
Campione 164,
Campo (Lake of Como)
154.
— Dolcino 39.
— Formio 279.
Campodarsego 227.
Campola, the 289.
Campoloro 458.
Camporciero, Val di 7A.
Camporosso 109.
Camposampiéro 227.
Candelo 77.
Canelli 84.
Cannéro 169.
Cannes 21.
Cannet 22.
Canobbio 169.
Canonica, La 457.
Canossa 290.
Canova 37.
Cantalupo 82. 84.
St. Canzian 55.
Canzo 150.
—, Corni di 150.
Caorso 182.
Capo Corso 460.
— §. Croce 102.
— dIstria 58.
— Martino 109.
— delle Mele 103.
— Nero 105.
— Veechio 458.
— Verde 103.
— Vico 149.
Capo di Ponte (near Bel-
luno) 278.
— (Val Camonica) 196.
Capolago 160.
Capraja 341.
Caprese 452.
Caprino, Monte 163, 165.
Capriolo 195.
Carate 149. 153.
Caravaggio 180.
Careggi, Villa 446.
Carema 74.
Careno 153.
Carignano 83.
Carlo, Mte. 109.
Carlotta, Villa 154.
Carmagnola 83.
Carmelo, Monte 102.
Carmignanello 364.
Carmignano 226.
Carnian Alps, the 54.
Carona 163.
Caronno 146,
Carpentras 10.
Carpi 214.
INDEX.
Carrara 123.
Carrei, Torrente 108.
Carru 84.
Carso, the 55.
Carugo 149.
Casalbuttano 180.
Casale 77.
Casalecchio 333.
Casaletto 4180.
Casalpusterlengo 179.
285.
Casarsa 279.
Casarza 121.
Casciago 166.
Cascina 340.
Cascinotta 33.
Casentino, Valley 451.
Caslino 150.
Casneda 169.
Casola 289.
Cassano 150. 182.
St. Cassien 23.
Cassina 160.
Cassone 189.
Castagnaro 209.
Castagnavizza 281.
Castagnola 165.
Castagnole 84.
Casteggio 80.
Castel Arquato 287.
— Bolognese 323.
— §. Giovanni 81.
— Guelfo 288.
— Maggiore 301.
— §. Niccold 451.
— §. Pietro 323.
Cavedine, Val 46.
Cavo Tassone, Canal 301.
Cazzanore 149.
Cecina 187.
Celle 102. 333.
Ceneda 278.
Cenéri, Monte 35.
Cengio 84
Cenis, Mont 25.
— —, Tunnel 25.
Centa, the 102.
Centallo 118.
Cento 301.
Centre, the Canal du 4.
Ceppino 158.
Ceraino AT.
Cerea 209.
Ceresio, the Lago 160.
Ceriale 102.
\Ceriana 105.
Cernobbio 152.
Cernusco 149.
Cerro 82.
Certosa di Pavia 176.
— di Pisa 351.
— near Bologna 322.
— di Val d@’Ema 444.
— di Val Pésio 184.
Ceruso, the 401.
Cervara 120.
\Cervia 3338.
Cervione 457.
Cervo 108.
Cesano 149.
iCesanne 26. 73.
'Cesenatico 333.
Castelfranco (Romagna)|Cesson 1.
2
— (Venetia) 226.
Castellar 108.
Castellaro 179.
Castelleone 180.
Castelletto 189.
Cetica 450.
Cette, Le 450.
Ceva 84.
i\Cézy 2.
Chablis 3.
Chagny A.
Castello near Florence|Challant, Val de 74.
364.
— near Lecco 159.
— (Lago di Garda) 189.
Castellucchio 182.
|Chalon-sur-Sadne A.
— -St. Cosme 4.
St. Chamas 17.
Chambave 7).
Castelnuovo near Ales-|Chambéry 20.
sandria 84.
— near Peschiera 185.
Chambre, La 25.
Chamousset 29.
Castiglione d’Olona 166.|Champigny 2.
— (near Sospello) 117.
Castigliuoli 105.
Castillon 108. 117.
Castione 35.
Catini, Monte 357.
Cattajo, Castle 299.
Cava-Carbonara 179.
Cavaleiotto, il 364.
Cava-Manara 180.
Cava-Tigozzi 180.
Cavallermaggiore 83.
Champorcher, Val 74.
Charenton 1.
Chiteau Neuf (Nice) 116.
Chatillon (near Aosta) 75.
— (Savoy) 24.
ChAtillon-sur-Seine 3.
Chaumont 26.
Chauve, Mont 113.
Cherasco 84.
Chiana, Val di 452.
Chiari 185.
_ wwe © ao eee
Chiasso 160.
Chiavari 120.
Chiavenna 39.
Chieri 81.
Chiese, the 185.
—, Val 188.
Chiggiogna 34.
Chignin, Chat. 25.
Chignin-les-Marches 25.
Chignolo 179.
Chioggia 277.
Chiomonte 26.
Chiusa di Verona 47.
Chiusaforte 50.
Chiusi 452.
Chivasso 77.
Chur 36.
Cilli 54.
Cima 165.
—, Villa 152.
Cimella or
Cimies 115.
Cimone 334.
Cimone, Monte 299.
Ciotat, La 21.
Ciraun 38.
Cisano 185. 189.
Cismone, the 47.
Cittadella 226.
Cittiglio 166.
Civenna 151.
Civiasco 175.
Cividale 280.
Cividate 196.
St. Clair 5.
Claro 35.
—, Pizzo di 39.
Clusone, the 73.
Clugin 38,
Co di Mozzo 458.
Coccaglio 185.
Cocquio 166.
Codogno 180. 285.
Codroipo 279.
Cogoleto 101.
Coire 36.
Coiro 173.
Cojano 364.
Colico 39. 157.
Colla, La 106.
Colle-Campiglio 166.
Collegno 26.
Collonges 24.
Colma, Col di 175.
Colobiano, Villa 153.
Cologna 188.
Colombier, the 24.
Comabbio, Lago di
166.
Comacina, Isola 153.
Combes-la-Ville 4.
Comerio 166.
Como 148,
INDEX.
Como, the Lake of 151.
Compiobbi 449.
Concei, Val 188.
Condino 188.
Condove 26.
Conegliano 278.
Coni 118.
Consuma Pass, the 450.
Coppa, the 80.
Corbario or
Corbé, Castle 35.
Corenno 157.
Cormanno 149.
Cormons 281.
Cornaggia, Villa 152.
Corniale 58.
Corniche, Route de la
100. 109.
Corniglia 121.
Cornigliano 100.
Cornio, Col di 118.
Corno, the 279.
Correggio 289.
Corsaglia, Valle di 84.
Corsalone, the 451.
| Corsica 453.
Corsico 80.
Corso, Capo 460.
Corte 458.
Cortenedolo 196.
Corténo 196.
Corteolona 179.
Corticella 301.
St. Cosme A.
Costa 209.
—, near Giubiasco 35.
Costigliole 84
Cotaiga, Monte 155.
Céte @Or, the 4.
Céte Rétie, La 9.
Cottian Alps, the 62.
Courmayeur 76.
Courmes, Gorge de 23.
Covelo 46.
Cramosina, La 34.
Crau, the Plain of 17.
Crédo, Tunnel du 24.
Crema 180.
Cremeo At.
Cremia 157.
Cremona 180.
|Cremona-Brescia 179.
— -Milan 180.
— -Pavia 179.
Cresciano 35.
Cresogno 165.
Crespano 228.
Crestola, Monte 123.
Creuzot 4.
Crevola 29.
Cribiasca, the 34.
Crivelli, Villa (Brianza)
150.
BAEDEKER. Italy I. 6th Edit.
465
Croce (near Belluno) 278.
— (near Menaggio) 164.
—, Capo della 102.
Crocione, Monte 155. 164.
aN Cap de la 22.
s}
Crostolo, the 288.
Cucciago 147.
Cugnasco 36.
Culoz 24.
Cuneo 118.
Curaglia 40.
Curone, the 80.
Curver, Piz 37.
Cusano 149.
Cusio, Lago 174.
Custozza 209.
Cutigliano 333.
Cuvio, Val 166.
Cuzzago 29.
S. Dalmazzo 117.
S. Damiano 81.
Dammafirn, the 33.
Darfo 196.
Davesco 163.
Dazio Grande 34.
Dego 82.
Deiva 121.
Delio, Lago 169.
Dervio 157.
Desago 163.
Desenzano 186.
Desio 147.
Deutsch-Metz 44.
Diana, Lake of 457.
Diano Castello 102.
— Marina 102.
Diavolo, Ponte del 350.
Diecimo 356.
Dijon 3
S.Dionigio, Promont. 159,
Diséntis 40.
Divazza 5d.
Divéria, the 28.
Dobratsch, the 49,
Docce Basse 307.
Doccia, La 446.
Dogna 50.
Doire, the T4. 75. ete.
‘Dolce Acqua 106.
Dole 4.
Dolo 218.
Domaso 157.
Domegliara 47.
'Domleschg 37.
‘Domo dOssola 29.
‘Donat 38.
Dongo 157.
Donnaz 74.
S. Donnino 341.
'DoraBaltea, the74.75.ete.
— Riparia, the 26. 62. ete.
30
Dorio 157.
Dos Trento 45.
Dossobuono 209.
Doubs, the 5.
Draguignan 21.
Drappo 117.
Drau or
Drave, the 53. ete.
Drena, Castello di 46.
Dro AG.
Dueville 248.
Duggia, Val 175.
Duino 282.
Durance, the 41. 12. 73.
Ebikon 30.
Ecluse, Fort de 1° 24.
Edolo 196.
Eggenthal, the 43.
Egna 44.
St. Egyden 51.
Ehrenhausen 53.
Einod 48.
Einshorn, the 38.
Kisak, the 42.
Ellero, the 84.
Ema, the 444.
Emilia, the 283.
Empoli 340.
Ems 36.
Enguiso 188.
Entella, the 121.
Enza, the 288.
Epierre 25.
Eppen AA.
Era, the 340.
Erba 150.
Ersa 460.
Ermitage, the 9.
Erstfeld 31.
Erstfelder Thal, the 31.
Escarene 117.
Esino, Val d’ 156.
Este 300.
—, Villa d° 153.
Estérel, Mont d’ 22.
Etsch, see Adige.
Euganean Mts., the
299.
Exilles 26.
Eza 109. 110.
Faido 34.
Falicon 115.
Falterona, Monte 451.
Fantiscritti 123.
Fara 175.
Fardiin, Castle 38.
Farigliano 84.
Farnoli 356.
Federaun A9.
Feistritz 49.
Feldkirchen 49.
Felixdorf 51.
Felizzano 82.
Fella 50.
Felsberg 36.
Fenestrelle 73.
Fenis, Castle 7.
Feriolo 29. 174.
Ferrara 302.
Ariosto, House of 305.
—, Statue of 306.
Ateneo Civico 305.
S. Benedetto 305.
Castello 303.
Cathedral 303.
S. Cristoforo 306.
S. Francesco 304.
S. Giorgio 306.
Hospital of St.Anna306.
S. Maria in Vado 304.
Palazzina 306.
Pal. Beltrame 304.
— Bevilacqua 306.
— Costabili 304.
— de’ Diamanti 305.
— del Municipio 303.
— Prosperi (de’ Leoni)
305..-
— della Ragione 303.
— Roverella 306.
— Schifanoja 304.
— Zatti 306.
S. Paolo 304.
Picture Gallery 305.
S. Romano 303.
Savonarola, Monum.
of 303.
Studio Pubblico 304.
Tasso, Prison of 306.
University 304.
Ferrera 179.
— Valley, the 38.
Fersina, the 45. 46.
Fiesole 447.
Fiesso 33.
Figino 163.
Figline 364.
Finalborgo 402.
Finale 102.
Finalmarina 102.
Finalpia 102.
Finsterbach, the 43.
Fiora 31.
S. Fiorenzo 460.
Fiorenzuola 288.
Firenze, see Florence.
Firnitz 4
Fiumalbo 299.
Fiume 55. 58.
Fiume Latte 156.
Fiumenta, the 364.
Flamboin 2
Flims 40.
Florence 364.
Accademia delle Belle
Arti 413.
— della Crusca 443.
S. Ambrogio 400.
SS. Annunziata 410.
S. Apollonia, Convent
418.
SS. Apostoli 392.
Archeological Museum
Archives 392.
Arcivescovado 396.
Arrival 364.
Artists 368.
Badia 405.
— §. Bartolommeo 445.
— di Fiesole 448.
Bank 399.
Bankers 368.
Bargello 401.
Base di S. Lorenzo 419.
Baths 367.
Battistero 394.
Beer 366.
Bello Sguardo 444.
Biblioteca Laurenziana
A241.
— Marucelliana 419.
— Nazionale 392.
— Riccardiana 419.
Bigallo 394.
Boboli Garden, the 439.
Booksellers 367.
Borgo degli Albizzi 405.
— Ognissanti 425.
Brancacci Chapel 429.
Bridges 375. Ee
Cabs 366.
Cafés 366.
Campanile 398.}
Canonry 399.
Cappella de’ Pazzi 408.
— degli Spagnuoli 424.
— S. Gaetano 428.
Carmine, Mad. del 429.
Cascine 445.
Casino Mediceo 417.)
— di Livia 418.
Cathedral 396.
Certosa di Val @Ema
AAA,
Chemists 367.
Circulating Libraries:
Colonna di S. Zanobi
Confectioners 366.
Consulates 367.
Cosimo’s I. Statue 376.
S. Croce 406.
Dante’s House 393.
Dante’s Statue 405.
ee
iy
Florence:
Demidoff, Monum. of
AAI.
Doccia, La 446. |
S. Domenico di Fiesole
AAT,
S. Egidio 399.
English Church 368.
Environs 441.
Exhibition of Art 400.
Facchini Pubblici 367.
S. Felice 440.
S. Felicita 430.
Festivals 369. 422.
Fiesole 447.
S. Firenze 400.
Fortezza di Belvedere
AAO.
Foundling Hospital
410.
S. Francesco di Paola
4A,
— de’ Vanchetoni 425,
S. Gaggio 444.
Galleria Buonarroti
409.
Corsini 426.
Pitti 430.
Torrigiani 440.
degli Uffizi 377.
Galileo, House of 440.
Gates 374.
Ghetto 394.
S. Giovanni
(Fort) 422.
S. Giovannino
Scolopi 419.
Giuco di Pallone 369.
Goods Agents 368.
Guildhouse of the
Woolcombers 394.
History 371.
— of Art 373:
Hospital, Protestant
367.
Hotels 364.
House of Bianca Ca-
pello 428.
— of Benvenuto Cellini
400.
— of Dante 393.
— — Galileo 440.
— — Macchiavelli 430.
— — Michael Angelo
Battista
degli
409.
S. Jacopo 428.
— in Campo Corbolini
422.
— di Ripoli 425.
Kennedy Laurie, Re-
sid. of Mrs. 425.
S. Leonardo in Arcetri,
Florence:
INDEX.
Lieux d’Aisance 367.
Loggia dei Lanzi 377.
— del Grano 392.
Loggia di S. Paolo 423.
— del Pesce 394.
S. Lorenzo 419.
S. Lucia 441.
Lung’ Arno 375.
Madonna del Carmine
429.
S. Marco 411.
—, Monastery 412.
S. Margherita a Mon-
tici 444.
S. Maria degli Angeli
400.
— del Fiore 396.
— degli Innocenti 410.
—- Maddalena de’ Pazzi
400.
— Novella 423.
— Nuova 399.
Marzocco, the 376.
Medici, Monuments of
the 421.
Mercato Centrale 422.
— Nuovo 393.
— Vecchio 394.
S. Miniato 442.
Misericordia 398.
Monte Oliveto 445.
Mosaics, Manufact. of
AAT.
Museo di Storia Natu-
rale 440.
— di S. Mareo 412.
— Nazionale 401.
S. Niccolo 441.
Observatory 419.
Ognissanti 425.
Omnibuses 3867.
Opera del Duomo 399.
Or S. Michele 393.
Oratorio S. Carlo Bor-
romeo 394.
— della Misericordia
398.
— dei Rucellai 428.
Ospedale S. Maria
Nuova 399.
Palazzo Alberti 409.
— Albizzi 405.
— Altoviti ai Visacci
405.
— dell’ Antella 406.
— Bartolini-Salimbeni
AQT.
— del Borgo 406.
— Buturlin 410.
— Canigiani 441.
— Capponi 441,
— del Comune 426.
467
Florence:
|
Palazzo Corsi 427.
— Corsini 426.
della Crocetta 400.
Davanzati 393.
De Rast 405.
Dufour-Berte 429.
Fenzi 376.
Feroni 426.
Fiaschi 410.
Fontebuoni 426.
Ginori 419.
Gondi 400.
Guadagni 429.
Guicciardini 430.
Giugni 400.
Larderel 427.
Manelli 410.
Martelli 422.
Masetti 426.
Medici 418.
Nencini 4148.
Nonfinito 405.
Panciatichi 419.
— -Ximenes 400.
Pandolfini 448.
Pestellini 419.
Pitti 430.
del Podesta 401.
Poniatowski 419.
Quaratesi 405.
Riccardi 448.
-— eed (Guadagni)
Rucellai 428.
Serristori 406.
Spini 426.
Strozzi 427.
Strozzino 427.
-— Tornabuoni 427.
Torrigiani 440.
Uguccioni 376.
— Vecchio 375.
Pensions 365.
Physicians 367.
Photographs 368.
Piazza dell’ SS. Annun-
ziata 440.
— d’Azeglio 400.
— §. Croce 405.
— del Duomo 394.
— §. Firenze 400.
— del Limbo 392.
— 8. Lorenzo 419.
— Manin 425.
— §. Marco 411.
— Nuova di S. Maria
Novella 422.
—- del Mercato 394.
— della Signoria
5D.
— §. Spirito 428.
— §. Trinita 427.
30 *
Florence :
Piazzale Michelangelo
AA2.
S. Pierino 394,
Poggio Imperiale 443.
Ponte alla Carraja 375.
426.
— alle Grazie 375. 440.
— §. Trinita 375. 426.
428.
— Vecchio 375. 429.
Porta S. Gallo 446.
Portico degli Uffizi
BYY
Post Office 367. 377.
Private Lodgings 365.
oe Stations 364.
2
Rajah of Kohlapore
Monum. of 446.
Reading Rooms 367.
Recollets, Cloisters of
the 417.
Restaurants 365.
Sagrestia Nuova 420.
S. Salvatore 396.
S. Salvatore del Monte
AA.
S. Salvi 449.
Sasso di Dante 399.
Scalzo, Chiostro dello
AAT.
Schools 368.
Servi di Maria 410.
Societa dIncoraggia-
mento delle Belle
Arti 400.
Shops 368.
Spagnuoli, Capp. degli
AQK
Spedale degli Innocenti
— di S. Maria Nuova
3
8. Spirito 428.
Statue of Brunnelleschi
399.
— — Arnolfo del Cam-
bio 399.
— — Prince Demidoff
AA
— —General FantiAl1.
— — Ferdinand I. 410.
— — Giovanni delle
Bande Nere 419.
— — Goldoni 426.
S. Stefano 392.
Synagogue 400.
Telegraph Office 367.
Theatres 368.
Torre dei Girolami 392.
— del Gallo 444.
Tramways 366.
INDEX.
Florence:
Treasury 439.
Tribuna del Galileo
AAO.
S. Trinita 426.
Uffizi, Galleria degli
Otis
Via Cavour 418.
— dei Calzajoli 393.
— della Forca 422.
— della Scala 425.
— del Proconsolo 400.
— Faenza 422.
— Ginori 419.
— Guicciardini 430.
— Maggio 428.
— Tornabuoni 427.
Viale dei Colli 441.
Villa degli Albizzi 445,
delle Bugie 444.
Careggi 446.
Corsi 446.
della Doccia 446.
— of Galileo 444.
— Guicciardini 444.
— Mozzi 4AT.
|
Palmieri 446.
Petraia 446.
— Poggio Imperiale
AS.
Flielen 31.
Fogliardi 166.
Fontainebleau 2.
Fontaines 4.
Fontana 117.
Fontana Fredda 288.
Fontaniva 226.
Formigine 299.
Fornace 164.
Fornasette 164.
Fossano 1148.
Fourneaux 25.
Fourviere 6.
Frabosa 84.
Framura 121.
S. Francesco d’Albaro
119.
Franzdorf 54.
Franzensfeste 42.
Frate, Il 459.
Frati, Isola dei 186.
Fratta 209.
Frauenburg 48.
Freggio Tunnel 34.
Freienfeld 42.
Fréjus 21.
—, Col de 25.
Frerone, Monte 196.
Fressinone, the 28.
Friaul 279.
Friesach 48.
Froda Fall 35.
Frodolfo 158.
Frohnleiten 52.
Fronalpstock 30.
Fréschnitz, the 52.
Frugarolo 82.
Fuentes, Castle 39.
Fugazza Pass, 218.
Fumajolo, the 452.
Furva, Val 158.
Fiirstenau, Castle 37.
Gaggi, Villa, see Anton-
gina.
Gaggiano 80.
Gail, the 49.
Gailitz 49.
Galbiati, Villa 153.
Galbiga, Monte 164.
Gallarate 165.
Galleno 196.
Galliate 79.
Galliera 301.
Gallinara, Isola 102.
Gallivaggio 39
Galluzzo 444.
Gampel 27.
Gandria 165.
Garbagnate 146,
Gard, Pont du 145.
Garda 189.
—, Isola di 186.
—, Lake of 186.
Gardone 187.
Gargazon 43,
Gargnano 187.
Garlate, Lago di 159.
Garza, Val 188.
Garzeno 157.
Gavardo 187.
Gavirate 166.
Gazza, Monte 46.
Gazzada 165.
Gazzo 182.
Gemona 50.
Gemonio 166.
Generoso, Monte 160.
Geneva 5. 24.
Genévre, Mont 26. 73.
Genoa 86.
Accademia delle Belle
Arti 93.
Acqua Sola 99.
S. Agostino 92.
Albergo dei Poveri 99.
S. Ambrogio 92.
SS. Annunziata 96.
— di Portoria 94.
Banca Nazionale 91.
— di S. Giorgio 88.90.
Baths 87.
Begato, Fort 88,
Genoa:
Biblioteca Civica 93.
Campo Santo 100.
Castellaccio 88.
Consulates 87.
Darsena 91.
Dogana 90.
S. Donato 92.
English Church 87.
Exchange 91.
Fortifications 88.
Galleria Mazzini 94.
Harbour 89.
History 88.
— of Art'89.
Lighthouse 89.
Loggia de’ Banchi 91.
S. Lorenzo 91.
S. Maria in Carignano
— di Castello 90.
— delle Vigne 91.
S. Matteo 93.
Military Music 87.
Molo Nuovo and Vec-
chio 89.
Municipio 99.
Palazzo Adorno 95.
— Balbi 96.
— Balbi-Senarega 97.
— Bianco 96.
— Brignole-Sale 95.
— Cambiaso 94.
— Carega 94.
— della Casa 94.
— Cataldi 94.
— Cattaneo 91.
— Centurioni 96.
— Deferrari 96.
— Doria 98.
— Doria (Giorgio) 94.
— Doria-Tursi 95.
— Ducale 92.
— Durazzo 97.
— Faraggiana 98.
— Gambaro 9A.
— Marcello Durazzo
— del Municipio 95.
— Pallavicini 94.
— — (Lud. Stef.) 94.
— Parodi 94.
— della Prefettura 92.
— Reale 97.
— Rosso 95.
— della Seala 96.
— dello Scoglietto 99.
— Serra 95
— Spinola 94.
— dell Universita 97.
Passo Nuovo 99.
Physicians 87.
Piazza Acquaverde 98.
INDEX.
Genoa:
Piazza Deferrari 93.
— Fontane Morose 94.
— Vacchero 93.
S. Pietro de’ Banchi 91.
Ponte Carignano 92.
Porto Franco 90.
Post Office 87.
Prefettura 92.
Rail. Stations 86.
S. Siro 91.
Sperone, Fort 88.
Statue of Cavour 91.
— of Columbus 98.
S. Stefano 93.
Teatro Carlo Felice 87.
93.
Terrazzo di
90
Town Hall 95.
University 97.
Via Balbi 94.
— di Circonvallazione
Marmo
469
S. Giovanni, Island
(Lake of Como) 153.
— — (Lago Maggiore)
170.
S. Giovanni Manzano 281.
Giovi 452.
Galleria dei 83.
Gldikon 30.
Gitschen 31.
Gittana 156.
Giubiasco 35.
Giugo, Monte 120.
S. Giuletta 81.
Giulia, Villa 156.
S. Giuliano 80.
—, Monte 351.
S. Giuliano,
351.
S. Giulio, Isola 174.
S. Giuseppe, Lago di 7A.
Bagni di
S. eGiiuseppe di Cairo 82.
Giussano 149.
Glandorf 49.
Glanegg 49.
Gloggnitz 51.
Gmund 44.
Godo 323.
Goldau 30.
Golo, the 457. 459.
Gombo, Tl 351.
Gondo dg,
Gonfolina, the 341.
Gonzaga 214.
Gorbio 108.
she
— Garibaldi 94.
— Nuova 9A.
— Nuovissima 96.
— degli Orefici 91.
Villa Negro 99.
St. George des Hurtiéres
St. Georgen A8,
Gere, the 9.
Gera 36.
Gerlitzen-Alp, the 49.
St Germain, Chat. 24. 74.
S. Germano ts
Germignaga 169.
Gesso, the 118.
Ghiffa 470.
Giacomelli, Villa 227.
— (near Sondrio) 158.
Giandola 117.
Giarole 77.
Giens 21.
Gignese 173.
Ginistrella, Monte 175.
St. Gion AO.
Generoso.
— — (nearPiacenza)301.
Giornico 34.
S. Giovanni
Garda) 189.
— (near Milan) 146.
— (near Nice) 116.
—, Castel 81.
S. Giacdmo (Bernardino)
Ad
— (near Chiavenna) 39.
Gordola 36.
Gorgie, Le 26.
Gorizia 281.
Gorlago 183.
Gornerenbach, the 32.
Gorz 281.
Gorzone Canal, the 300.
Géschenen 33
— -Reuss, the 33.
— -Thal) ithe 33.
Goss, Chateau of 48.
Gossensass 42.
Goésting 52.
Gotschakogel, the 51.
wap Ae Tunnel 29.
Gionnero,Monte s. Monte|Gozzano 79.
Gradisca 281.
S. Giorgio (near Cento)|Graian Alps, the 62.
301.
Graisivaudan, Valley of
— — delle Pertiche 227. Grappa, Monte 228.
Grasse 93.
(Lake of|Grasstein 42.
Gratwein 52,
Gratz 52.
Gravedona 157.
Gravellona 29.
_—<
or ee oe =
a. —_ ene ee ee ——
—— —————
470
Gravone, the 458.
Grenoble 9.
Greve, the 444.
Gries (Brenner) 42.
— (near Botzen) 43.
Grigna, Monte 156.
Grignano 55.
Grigno 46.
Grimaldi 106.
Grédener-Thal, the 43.
Grono At.
Gropello 166.
Grosina, Val 158.
Grosio 158.
Grossotto. 158.
Grotta, La 188.
Grumello 185.
Gschnitzthal, the 42.
Guardia, Monte 322.
—, Col de 108.
Guastalla 214.
Guelfo, Castel 288.
Guglielmo, Monte 195.
Guidizzolo 185.
Guillotiére, La 6.
Guinzano 176.
Gumpoldskirchen 51.
Guntramsdorf 51.
Gurk 48s.
Gurtnellen 32.
Giitsch, the 31.
Hagrigen-Bach, the 32.
Hardegg 49.
Haute-Combe, Abbey 25.
Heinzenberg, the 37.
Héricourt 4.
Hetzendorf 51.
Hinterrhein 41.
Hirli, the 38.
Hirt 48.
Hochfluh Tunnel 31.
Hoch-Realt 37.
Hohenems, Castle 36.
Hohen-Osterwitz 48.
bit Castle
St. Honorat 23.
H6pitaux, Les 24.
St. Hospice 116.
Hrastnig 54.
Hundsriicken 30.
Hyéres 21.
—, the Islands of 21.
“Iavello, Monte a’ 364.
Idria 54.
Idro 188.
—, Lago d’ 188.
Induno 166.
If, Chateau da’ 17.
Tlanz 40.
S. Tlario 120. 288.
INDEX.
Immensee 30.
Imola 323.
Impero, the 103.
Incino 150.
Incisa 84.
Ingenbohl 3t.
Ingering-Thal, the 48.
Innsbruck Al.
Intelvi Valley, the 153.
Intra 170.
Introbbio 4157.
Intschi Tunnel 382.
Inverigo 150.
Tria 80.
Isel, hill 44.
Iselle 28.
Tseo 195.
—, Lago d@’ 195.
Isera AT.
Isére, the 9. 25.
Isola (Spliigen) 39.
— (near Trieste) 58.
— Bella 171.
— §. Biagio 186.
— del Cantone 82.
— dei Frati 186.
— §. Giovanni
Magg.) 170.
— Madre 172.
— Rossa A60.
— dei Pescatori or
— Superiore 172.
— della Scala 209.
Isole Sanguinarie 459.
Isoletto, Rock 189.
Isonzo, the 281.
Istrana 227.
Ivano, Chateau 46.
Ivrea TA.
Ivry 1.
(Lago
St. Jean 116.
St. Jean de Maurienne 29.
Joigny 2.
Jérgenberg 40.
S. Jorio, Passo 157.
St. Joseph, Monastery 54.
Jouan, Golfe 22, 23.
Judenburg A8.
Judendorf 52.
Judrio, the 281.
Julian Alps, the 54.
St. Julien-du-Sault 2.
Jura, the 24.
Juvalta, Castle 37.
Kainach, the 53.
Kalkberg, the 38.
Kalsdorf 53.
Kalte Rinne, the 52.
Kalterer See 44.
Kaltern 44.
Kaltwasser Glacier, the
Kanzli, the 37.
Kapfenberg 52.
Karawanken, the 48.
Kardaun 43.
Karlsberg 49.
Karst, the 55. 281.
Kirstelenbach 32.
Katzis 37.
Kindberg 52.
Kirchberg Tunnel 32.
Klamm 51.
Klausen 43.
Klein-Stiibing 52.
Knittelfeld 48.
Kottingbrunn 51.
Kranichsfeld 53.
Krappfeld, the 48.
Kressnitz 54.
Krieglach 52.
Kuntersweg, the 43.
Kurtatsch 44.
Kiissnacht (Lake of Lu-
cerne) 30.
Laase 54.
Labeck, Castle 53.
La Brie 1.
La Chambre 25.
La Colla 106.
La Doccia 446.
Lagarina, Val 47.
Laglio 153.
Lagnasco 118.
Lago Inferiore 210.
— Maggiore 167.
— di Mezzo 210.
— Santo 334.
— Superiore 210.
La Grotta 188.
Lagune, the 236.
Laibach 54.
Laibach, the 54.
Laigueglia 103.
Laisse, the 25.
La Lume Tunnel 34.
St. Lambrecht 48.
Lambro, the 150.
Lambrugo 150.
Lamone, near Lugano 36,
—, the 324,
La Motta 196.
Lana 43.
Lancenigo 278.
Landskron, Castle 49.
La Nova 487.
Lanza, the 166.
La Pauline 21.
La Praz 25.
Laroche 2.
La Rotta 340,
La Salute 169.
Lasnigo 151.
La Spezia 121.
Lastra 341.
La Tour 73.
La Tourette 116.
La Trinité Vittorio 117.
La Turr, ruined chat. 38.
Launsdorf 48.
Lavagna 121.
Lavedo, Promontory 154.
Laveno 170.
Lavenone 188.
Lavino 290.
Lavis 44.
Lavorgo 34.
Laxenburg 51.
Lazise 189.
S. Lazzaro, near Bologna
323.
S. Lazzaro, near Venice
Pag fe
Lebring 53.
Leccia, Ponte alla 459.
Lecco 159
—, the Lake of 159.
Le Creuzot 4.
Ledro, Lago di 188.
—, Pieve di 188.
Ledro Valley, the 188.
Leggia 41.
Leggistein Tunnel 32.
Leghorn 338.
Legnago 209.
Legnano 165.
Legnoncino, Monte 157.
Legnone, Monte 157.
Leguana 395.
Leibnitz 53.
Leitach, Botzener 43.
Leitha Mts., the 51.
Lendinara 209.
Leno, the 218.
Lenno 151.
Lenzumo 188.
Leoben 48.
Leobersdorf 51.
Leogra 218.
Leone, Monte 28.
Leopoldskirchen 50.
Le Prese 158.
Lerici 122.
Lérins, Les 22.
Lesa 172.
Le Sarche 46.
Les Arcs 21.
Lesece 55.
Les Laumes 3.
Les Marches 25.
Le Tezze A6.
Leuk 27.
Lévant, Ile du 21.
Levante, Riviera di 119.
Levanto 121.
INDEX. 471
Leventina, the Valle 33.|Lugliano 357.
Levico 46. Lugo. 323.
Leyment 5. Luinate 166.
Lezzeno 153. Luino 169.
Libro Aperto 334.
Lichtenegg 52.
Liebenfels 49.
Lierna 159.
Liesing-Thal, the 48.
Lieusaint 1.
Liguria 85.
Lima, the 356.
Limito 182.
Limone (Lake of Garda)
187.
— (Col di Tenda) 118.
Limonta 159.
Lipizza 58.
Liro, the 39.
L’Isle-sur-le-Doubs 5.
L’Isle-sur-Sorgue 12.
Litta, Villa 156.
Littai 54.
Livenza, the 279.
Livorno (Piedmont) 77.
— (Tuscany) 338.
Lizzana AT.
Loano 102.
Locarno 168.
—, Lake of 168.
Locate 176.
Lodi 282.
Lodrone 188.
Loing, the 2.
Loitsch 54.
Lombardo 167.
Lombardy 125.
Lomellina, the 179.
Lomello 179.
Lonato 185.
Longarone 278.
Longo Sardo 457.
Lonigo 214.
Lons-le-Saulnier 4. 5,
Loppio, Lake of 188.
S. Lorenzo (near
Remo) 4103.
— (near Trieste) 58.
S. Loretto 195.
Louéche-Souste 27.
Loveno 156.
Lovere 195.
Lovero 158.
Lowenberg, Chateau A0.
Lowerzer See, the 30.
Lucca 351.
—, the Baths of 356.
Lucerne 30.
—, the Lake of 31.
S. Lucia 158. 185.
Lucino 166.
Lugano 161.
—, the Lake of 160.
San
|
Lukmanier Pass 40.
Lumino Al.
Lumio 460.
Luna 123.
Lunigiana, La 123.
Lura 146.
Lurate 166.
Luri 460.
Luschariberg, the 50,
Luserna, Torre 7.
Lussnitz 50.
Lyons 5.
Lys, the 74.
Maccagno 169.
Macon 4.
Macra, the 118.
Maddalena, La 118.
—, Island 457.
—, Ponte della 356.
Madeleine, La 117.
Maderaner Thal, the 32,
Maderno 149. 187.
Madesimo, the 39.
Madonna della Campagna
i Wel
— di Caravaggio 180.
— della Costa 105.
— della Guardia (near
Bologna) 322.
— — (near Genoa) 83.
— — (near San Remo)
105.
— di S. Martino 155.
— di Montallegro 120.
— del Monte (near
Varese) 166.
— — (near Vicenza) 218.
— — (near Ivrea) TA.
— dOropa TT.
— Pilone 83.
— del Sasso (Lago Mag-
giore) 169.
— — (Lake
174.
— di Tirano 158.
—, Val 180.
of Orta)
(Madre, Isdla 172.
Madrera, Val 159.
Magadino 36. 168.
Magenta 79.
Maggia, the 168.
Maggiore, Lago 167.
—, Monte 188
Maglern 49.
Magliaso 164.
Magnan, the 113. 117.
Magnano 50.
iMagra, the 121. 122,
A A A “i ~
Magreglio 151.
’ Maienkreuz Tunnel 23.
Maienreuss, the 32.
Maienreuss Bridge, the
Middle 32
—, the Upper 33.
Maienthal, the 32.
Maira, the 39.
Maisons-Alfort 4.
Majori, Monte 334.
Majoria, Castle 27.
Malagnino 182.
Malain 3
Malamocco 237.
Malborgeth 50.
Malcesine 189.
Malenco, Val 158.
Malero 158.
Malghera, Fort 219.
Malgrate 150. 159.
Malgue, La 21.
Malnate 166.
Malon, the T7.
Manarola 121.
Mandello 159.
Manerba 186.
Manerbio 180.
Mantua 240.
S. Manza 457.
Mapello 185.
Marano 218.
Marburg 53.
Marcaria 182.
S. Marcello 333.
Marches, Les 25.
Marchino, Villa 163.
S. Marco (Simplon) 28.
— (Tyrol) AT.
Marengo 82.
S. Margherita 120.
— a Montici 444.
Margorabbia, the 169.
Margreid 44.
Ste. Marguerite 22.
8. Maria, Monastery(near
Claro) 35.
— (Lukmanier) 40.
— di Castello 34.
— delle Grazie 182.
— Maddalena 301.
— della Salute 35.
Mariana 457.
Mariano 149.
Marignano 285.
Maritime Alps, the 85.
Markt-Tiiffer 54.
Marlia, Villa 356.
Marne, the 1.
Maroggia 161.
Marone 195.
Marseilles 18.
Martigny 27.
St. Martin, Pont 74.
Martin, Cap 108.
gano) 161.
— di Lipari 226.
— (near Rimini). 333.
— (on the Ticino) 79.
— (near Verona) 214.
—, Promontory 108.
—, Madonna di 155.
—, Sasso 155.
Marzabotto 333.
Masein 37.
Maser, Villa 227.
Masino, Val 158.
Masnago 166.
Masone 29.
Massa 123.
Massaciuccoli, Lago di
356.
Massagno 36.
Massari, Piz 33.
Massilia 18.
Masuccio, Piz 158.
Matarello 47.
Matrei 42.
Mauls 42.
Maures, Mont. des 21.
Maurienne, la 25.
S. Maurizio, Monte 150.
Maurizio, Porto 103.
Mazzo 158.
Meana 26.
Meda 149.
Mede 179.
Medel, Vat 40.
Meggiagra 3d.
Meina 172.
Meitschlingen 32.
Mele, Capo delle 103.
Melegnano 285.
Melide 161.
Mella, the 180.
Melun 2.
Melzi, Villa 154.
Melzo 182.
Menaggio 156.
Mendrisio 160.
Mentone 106.
Meran 43.
Merana 82.
Merate 149.
Mercatale 364.
Mesocco At.
—, Val 35. 41.
Mesolcina, Val At.
Mestre 248. 277.
|Meursault 4.
Mezz-Isola 195.
Mezzo, Lago di 210.
Mezzo Lombardo 44,
— Tedesco 44.
,Mezzola, Lago di 39,
Medelser-Rhein, the 40.
Mezzolago 188.
S. Martino (Lake of Lu-|Miasino 173.
St. Michael A8.
St. Michel 25.
St. Michél, Piz 37.
yn one (near Trent)
= (near Verona) 196. 209.
214
— della Chiusa 26.
Migiandone 29.
Migliana 364.
Milan 127.
S. Alessandro 4143.
S..Ambrogio 141.
Archaeolog. Museum
138.
Archivio 133.
Arcivescovado 1382.
Arco del Sempione 145.
Arena 145.
S. Babila 444.
Biblioteca Ambrosiana
139.
— Pubblica 134.
Brera 134.
Campo Santo 145.
S. Carlo Borromeo 144.
Cassa di Risparmio
134.
Castle 145.
Cathedral 130.
Cavour’s Statue 145.
S. Celso 142.
Cemetery 145.
Coins, Coll. of 134.
Collegio dei Nobili
139.
Colonnade 142,
Conservat. of Music
1AA.
Corso Magenta 140.
— Porta Venezia 144.
— Porta Ticinese 142.
— Vittorio Eman. 144.
Engl. Church Service
129.
S. Eufemia 143.
S. Eustorgio 142.
S. Fedele 133.
Galleria Vitt. Ema-
nuele 132.
— de Cristoforis 144.
Giardini Pubblici 144.
145.
S. Giorgio al Palazzo
143
Leonardo’s Last Supper
4140.
_ Loggia degli Osii 139.
S. Lorenzo 142.
Macello Pubblico 441.
Manzoni’s House 133.
Milan:
S. Maria del Carmine
138.
— presso S. Celso 142.
— delle Grazie 140.
— Incoronata 139.
— della Passione 144.
— Podone 140.
S. Maurizio. 140.
Monument of Leon. da
Vinci 133.
Municipio 133.
Museo Archeologico
138.
— Artistico 145.
— Civico 145.
— Poldi-Pezzoli 133.
S. Nazaro 144.
Observatory 134.
Ospedale Maggiore 143.
Palazzo Belgiojoso 133.
— Borromeo 140.
— Ciani 144.
— della Citta 139.
— del Censo 133.
— di Giustizia 143.
— Litta 140.
— del Marino 133.
— di Prefettura 144.
— della Ragione 139.
— Reale 132.
— Saporiti 144.
— delle Scienze ed Arti
134.
— Trivulzio 1438.
— Visconti 141.
Piazza d’Armi 145.
— del Duomo 130.
— de’ Mercanti 139.
— della Scala 133.
S. Pietro in Gessate
144.
Pinacoteca 134.
Porta Garibaldi 130.
— Lodovica 142.
— Magenta 140.
— Ticinese 142.
Portico di S. Lorenzo
142.
Raphael’s Sposalizio
134. 136.
Salone, the 145.
S. Satiro 143.
Seminary 144.
S. Sepolero 140.
S. Simpliciano 138.
Statue of Beccaria 143.
— of Carlo Porta 145.
— of Cavour 145.
— of Leon. da Vinci
133.
— of Napoleon I. 134.
S. Stefano 143.
INDEX.
Milan:
Teatro della Scala 128.
Villa Reale 145.
Millesimo 84.
Mincio, the 182. 189.
S. Miniato 442.
— al Tedesco 340.
Miolans 25.
Miradolo 179.
Miramar, Chateau 58.
473
Montaguto 444,
Montalban, Fort 116.
Montallegro, Madonna di
120.
Montalto, Castle TA.
Montanaro 73.
Montario, Castle 214.
Montbard 3.
Montbéliard 4.
Montboron, prom. 116.
Mont Cenis 25.
Mirandola near Bolognal— Chauve 113.
323.
— near Modena 2t4.
Misano 333.
Missaglia 149.
Mittelberg, the 44.
Mitterdorf 52.
Mittewald 42.
Mixnitz 52.
Modane 25.
Modena 295.
S. Agostino 297.
Campanile 297.
Cathedral 296.
S. Francesco 297.
Ghirlandina, la 297.
Giardino Pubblico 299.
Library 298.
Menotti’s Statue 298.
S. Michele 297.
— Chevalier 22.
Monte Carlo 109.
— Carmelo 102.
— Catini 375.
— Maggiore 188.
— Murlo 362.
— Piottino 3A.
Montebello (Piedmont)
80.
— (near Vicenza) 24.
Montecchi 214.
Montechiaro 82.
Monteferrato 364.
Montefino 120.
Montegrotto 299.
Montélimar 10.
Montelupo 341.
Montepiano 364.
Montereau 2.
Muratori’s Statue 298.|Monterey 22.
Museo Lapidario 297.
Palazzo Reale 298.
S. Pietro 297.
Pinacoteca (Picture
Gallery) 298.
Médling 51.
Moésa, the 35. AO.
Moésola, Lago AQ.
Moggio 50.
Moggiona 451.
Mogliano 277.
Molgora 149.
Molina 188.
Monterone, Monte s.
Monte Motterone.
Monte Rosa 29. 75 etc.
Monterosso 121.
Monte Rosso 171.
Monte Samto 281.
Montevecchia 149.
Monte Viso, the 118.
Montgeron 1.
Monti (near Mentone)108.
Monti Pisani 351.
Monticelli 182.
Montignoso 123.
Molina del Pallone 333.|Montjovet 75.
Molincero Tunnel 35.
Moltrasio 153.
Momo 79.
Monaco 109.
Monate, Lago di 166.
Monealiéri 81.
Monchierro 84.
Mondadizza 158.
Mondovi 84.
Moneglia 121.
Monfalcone 281.
Moniga 186.
Monselice 300.
Monsummano 357.
Montagna 189.
— (Heinzenberg) 37.
— (Sondrio) 158.
—, Defile of ‘75.
Montmélian 25.
Montone, the 382.
Mont’ Orfano, the 149.
i—, Monast. 185.
Montpellier 15.
Monza 147.
Morbegno 158.
Morcote 163.
Morello, Monte 370.
Morengo 185.
\Moret 2.
Mori 47. 188.
|Moriano 356.
Morignone, Serra di 158.
Morosaglia 459.
Mortara 79,
Mortola 106.
Motta, La 196.
Motta S. Damiano 179.
Motterone, Monte 173.
Mouans 23.
Mouchard 4. 5.
Mougins 23.
Mozzecane 209.
Muggia 58.
Muggio 160.
Mugnone, the 446.
Miihle Tunnel 32.
Miihren Tunnel 32.
Miilhausen 4.
Muotta, the 31.
Mur, the 48.
Murano 276.
Murlo, Monte 362.
Muro, Capo di 455.
Miirz, the 52.
Miirzzuschlag 52.
Muslone 187.
Musocco 165.
Musso 157.
—, Rocca di 157.
Muzzano, Lake of 164.
Mylius, Villa 152. 456.
Mythen, the 30.
Mythenstein, the 3l.
—, Tunnel 3l.
Nabresina 55. 282.
Nago 188.
Napoule, Golfe de la 22.
Narzole 84.
Natisone, the 281.
Navacchio 340.
Naviglio Adigetto 300.
— Grande 79. 129.
— della Martesana 129.
— di Pavia 129.
Naxberg Tunnel 33.
S. Nazzaro 36. 182.
Nebbio 460.
Neive 84.
Nero, Capo 105.
Nerone, Bagni di 356.
Nervi £19.
Nesso 153.
Neumarkt 44.
Neunkirchen 51.
Neustadt 51.
Nevers 4. 5.
Nice 110.
S. Niccolo (nearPiacenza)
81
— (Casentino) 450.
— da Mira 34.
S. Nicolao 457.
Niella 84.
Nievole, the 357.
Niklasdorf 48.
Nimes 13.
INDEX.
Nivolet, Dent du 25.
Nizza 110.
Nizza di Monferrato 84.
Noce, the 44
Noli 102.
Nolla, the 37.
Non, Val di 44. 196.
Nonantola, Abbey of
214.
Nonsberg, the 196.
Nova, La 187.
Novara 77.
Novella 460.
Ossiacher See, the 49.
Ossdla, Val d’ 29.
Osteno 164.
—, Grotto of 164.
Ostriconi, the 460.
Ottavo, Val d’ 356.
Ouche, the 3.
Oulx 26.
Oviglio 84.
Ovolo, Monte 333.
Padernione 46.
Paderno 149.
Novi (near Alessandria)|Padrio, Monte 196.
82
— (near Modena) 214.
Nuits-sous-Beaune 4.
Nuits-sous-Ravieres 3.
Nure, the 182. 288. 287.
Nure, Ponte 288.
Nus (5.
Odescalchi,
Raimondi.
Oggebbio 170.
Ogliasca 157.
Oglio, the 180. 182. etc.
Oira 174.
Oelberg Tunnel 3.
Olcio 159.
Oldese 187.
Oleggio 79.
Olevano 80.
Olgiate 149. 166.
Olginate, Lago d’ 159,
Olimpino, Monte 160.
Oliveto, Monte 445.
Olivone 40.
Olmeneta 180.
Olona, the 129. 166.
Olsa 48
Oltre 58.
Oltrona 166.
Ombrone, the 334. 341.
358
Omegna 174.
Oneglia 102.
Onno 159.
Optschina 58.
Ora 4A.
Orange 10.
Orco, the 77.
Ornavasso 29.
Oro, Monte d’ 458.
Orrido 169.
Orta 174.
—, Lago @ 174.
Ortenstein 37.
Osogna 3d.
Ospedaletti 105.
Ospedaletto 50. 179.
Ospitaletto 185.
Ossiach 49.
Villa, see
Padua 249.
S. Antonio 220.
Baptistery 224.
Botanic Gar 226.
Carmini 224.
Cathedral 224.
Dante’s Statue 225.
Eremitani 222.
Gattamelata ,
of 999
wees
S. Giorgio, Cappella
222
Statue
Giotto’s Statue 225.
S. Giustina 226.
Gran Guardia 224.
Loggia Amulea 225.
— del Consiglio 224.
Madonna dell Arena
223.
Museo Civico 222,
Palazzo del Capitano
224,
— delle Debite 225.
— Giustiniani 222.
224,
— del Municipio 225.
— della Ragione 225.
Petrarch’s Monument
224.
Pinacoteca 222.
Prato della Valle 225.
Salone, Il 220.
Santo, Il 220.
Scuola del Carmine224.
— del Santo 221.
University 225.
Paese 227.
Paglione or Paillon, the
410); 113%
Pajanello 289.
Palanzo 151.
Palazzolo 149. 185.
Pallanza 170.
Pallanzeno 29.
Pallavicini, Villa 101.
Palmaria 122.
Pambio 163.
Panaro, the 290. 299.
|S. Paolo, islet 195.
Parabiago 165.
Paradisino, [1 450.
Parata, Punta della 455.
Paratico 195.
Pardorea Tunnel 34.
Pare 159.
Parma 290.
Antiquities ,
of 293.
Baptistery 292.
Cathedral 291.
Convento di S. Paolo
295.
Correggio’s Statue 291.
Giardino Ducale 295.
S. Giovanni Evange-
lista 292.
Library 294.
S. Lodovico 295.
Madonna della
cata 292.
Mazzuola’s Statue 293.
Palazzo del Comune
291.
— del Giardino 295.
— del Governo 291.
— della Pilotta 293.
— Ducale (Prefettura)
293.
Piazza Grande 291.
Picture Gallery 293.
Stradone, the 295.
Teatro Farnese 294.
University 295.
Parma, river 290.
Parona 47.
Partina 451.
Pascolo 174.
Pas-des-Lanciers 17.
Pasiano Schiavonesco
279.
Paspels 37.
Passable, Bay of 116.
Passalacqua, Villa 153.
Passeriano 279.
Pasta, Villa 153.
Paterno 449.
Patsch At.
Pauline, La 21.
Paullo 299.
Pavia 178.
Paviole 301.
Payerbach 51.
Pazzallo 163.
Pazzolino 163.
Pazzolo, Lago di 459.
Pecorile 289.
Peggau 52.
Pegli 101.
Pelago 449,
Pelestrina 237.
Pella 174.
Pellino, the 175,
Museum
Stec-
INDEX.
Pendolasca 4158.
Penzano 150.
Perarolo 278.
St. Peray 10.
Perdatsch 40.
Pergine 46.
Peri 47.
Pernegg 52.
Perosa 73.
Perrache 4.
Pertengo 77.
Pesa, the 341.
Pescantina 47.
Pescatori, Isola dei 172.
Peschiera 185. 189.
— d'Iseo 195.
Pescia 357.
Pésio, Val 84.
— —, Certosa di 84.
Pessione 81.
St. Peter 5d.
Petraia, La 446.
Petronilla Chapel 35.
——) Balloo:
Pettenasco 174.
Pfaffensprung Tunnel 32.
Pfannberg, Castle 52.
Pfitscher-Bach 42.
Pflersch-Thal, the 42.
Piacenza 285.
Piadena 182.
Piana 82.
Pian della Fugazza, Pass
of 218.
Pianazzo 39.
Pianello 157.
Piano, Lago del 164.
— del Re 105.
Pianotondo Viaduct 34.
— Tunnel 34.
Pianzano 279.
Piave 278.
—, river 278.
Pie di Castello 46.
Piedmont 59.
S. Pier d’Arena 83. 99.
S. Piero 362.
St. Pierre-d’Albigny 25.
Pietole 210.
Pietraligure 102.
Pietra Murata 46.
Pietrasanta 124.
S. Pietro d’Aprica 196.
— in Casale 301.
— in Corsica 458.
— in Grado 351.
— in Gt 226.
Pieve near Pavia 179.
— di Cadore 278.
— di Cento 301.
— §. Giacomo 182.
— di Ledro 188.
— a Nievole 375.
on Pe ET
A475
Pieve a Pelago 299.
— di Sori 120.
|Pigna 106.
Pignerol 73.
Pilat, Mont 9.
Pinerolo 73.
Pino (Lago Maggiore)
169.
Pioppe di Malfolle 333.
Piottino, Monte 33.
Piovere 187.
Pioverna, the 157.
Pirano 58.
Pisa 341.
Academy 348.
Archives 350.
Baptistery 345.
Bagni di Nerone 351.
Botan. Garden 350.
Bridges 343.
Campanile 345.
Campo Santo 345.
Cascine S. Rossore 351.
S. Caterina 349.
Cathedral 344.
Certosa 351.
Climate 342.
S. Francesco 349.
S. Frediano 349.
Galileo, House of 351.
Gombo, I) 351.
History of Art 343.
Leaning Tower 345.
Loggia de’ Banchi 300.
Lung’ Arno 343.
S. Maria della Spina
350.
S. Michele in Borgo
349.
Nat. Hist. Museum 350.
S. Nicola 350.
S. Paolo a Ripa d@’Arno
350.
Palazzo Agostini 349.
— dei Cavalieri 348.
— del Comune (Gamba-
corti) 350.
— Lanfranchi-Tosca-
nelli 349.
— Lanfreducci-Uppe-
zinghi 350.
Passeggiata Nuova 343.
Piazza del Duomo 343.
S. Pierino 349.
S. Pietro in Grado 351.
Sapienza 350.
Scuola Tecnica 349.
S. Sepolero 351.
S. Sisto 348.
Statue of Grand-Duke
Cosimo I. 348.
— of Ferdinand I. 350.
— of Leopold I. 349.
ee ————
a
ee SS — oa
SR Se a
7
476
Pisa:
S. Stefano ai Cavalieri
Torre dei Gualandi 348.
Tower of Hunger 348.
University 350.
Pisa, the Baths of 351.
Pisani, Monti 351.
Pisogne 195.
Pistoja 357.
Piteccio 334.
Piumogna, the 34.
Pizzighettone 180.
Pizzigone, Monte 175.
Pizzo, Monte 196.
Pizzo, Villa 153.
Pizzocolo, Mte. 187.
Plaisance 285.
Planja-Graben, the 50.
Platifer 33.
Platta 40.
Plessur, the 36.
Pliniana, Villa 153.
Plombiéres 3. ;
Po, the 62. 77.80, 81. 301.
etc.
Po di Primaro 301.
Poggio 103.
Poggio a Caiano 446.
Poggio Imperiale, Villa
AAS
Poggio Renatico 301.
Pogliasca 121.
Pognana 151.
Poiana 218.
Poik, the 55.
Polcevéra, the 83.
Poldi, Villa 153.
Polesella 301.
Polleggio 34.
Pollentia 84.
Polmengo Bridge 34.
— Tunnel 34.
S. Polo 287.
Poéltschach 53.
Ponale, Fall of the 188.
St. Pons, Monastery 115.
Pont dAin 24.
Pont du Gard 15.
Pont St. Louis 107.
Pont St. Martin 74.
Pont des Salassins 75.
Pont-de-Veyle 23.
Pont-sur-Yonne 2.
Pontafel 50.
Pontarlier 4.
Pontassieve 449.
Ponte di Brenta 218.
— del Diavolo 158.
— Grande 159.
— alla Leccia 459. 460.
— Lungo 102.
— §. Marco 185.
INDEX.
Ponte Nuovo (Brianza)
150.
— Nure 288.
— dell’ Olio 287.
— §. Pietro 185.
— a Poppi 451. |
— a Rifredi 364.
— a Serraglio 356.
— Tresa 164. |
Pontebba 50.
Pontebbana 50.
Pontecurone 80.
Pontedecimo 83.
Pontedera 340.
Pontelagoscuro 301.
Pontenuovo 459.
Pontepetri 333.
Pontevico 180. |
Ponti 82.
Pontigny 2.
Ponzana 77.
Poppi 451.
Porcari 357.
Pordenone 279.
Porlezza 164.
Porquerolles 21.
Porretta 333.
Porta 459.
Portcros 21.
Portofino 120.
Porto Ceresio 167.
— Maurizio 103.
— Valtravaglia 170.
— Vecchio 457.
— Venere 122.
Poschiavino 158.
Possagno 228,
Possnitz 53.
Potschach 51.
Pozzuolo 80.
Pra 101.
Pracchia 343.
Pragerhof 53.
Prato 362.
— near Faido 34.
— Tunnel 34.
Prato al Soglio 451.
Pratolino A48.
Pratomagno, the 450.
Pratovecchio 451.
Praz, La 25.
Precassino 35.
Preganziolo 277.
Pregassone 163.
Premeno 170.
Premosello 29.
Premstetten 53.
Preseglie 188.
Prestranek 55.
Primaro, Po di 301.
Primiero, Val 47.
S. Primo, Monte 151.
Primolano 46.
Prina, Villa 170.
Propiano 457.
Prosecco 5d.
Puccini, Villa 362.
Piich] 82.
Pugieu 24.
Pulst 49.
Puntigam 53. t
Pusiano 150.
—, Lago di 149. 150.
Pyrimont 24.
Quaderna 323.
Quarsano 153.
Quart, Castle 75.
‘Quarto 119.
\Quarto, Villa 446.
|Quattrocastella 289.
St. Quentin 15,
'Querceta 124.
‘Quinto 119.
—, near Airolo 33.
S. Quirico di Vernio 364.
Rabenstein, Castle 52.
Raccolana 50.
Racconigi 83.
Raimondi, Villa 152.
Rakek 54.
St. Rambert d’ Albon 9.
St. Rambert-de-Joux 24.
Ranzo 36.
Rapallo 120,
St. Raphael 21.
Rarogne or Raron 27.
Ratonneau 17.
Raut-Glacier, the 28.
Ravenna 3823.
Academy 826.
St. Agata 827.
S. Apollinare in Classe
382.
S. Apollinare Nuovo
330.
Archives 326.
Archiepiscopal Palace
326
Baptistery 326.
Biblioteca Comunale
326.
Byron’s House 827.
Cathedral 325.
Cemetery 331.
Classe 326.
Colonna di Gaston de
Foix 333
Dante’s Tomb 327.
S. Domenico 828.
Farini’s Statue 325.
S. Francesco 327.
S. Giovanni Battista
329:
Ravenna:
S. Giovanni
lista 330.
S. Giovanni e Paolo
c
32
Evange-
History of Art 324.
Library 326.
S. Maria in Cosmedin
330.
— in Porto 331.
— in Porto Fuori 331.
— della Rotonda 338i.
Monument of the
Exarch Isaac 329.
Mausoleum of Galla
Placidia 329.
— of Theodoric 331.
S. Michelein Affricisco
328.
S. Nazario e Celso 329.
S. Niccold 327.
S. Orso 325.
Palace of Theodoric
331.
Palazzo Arcivescovile
326.
Piazza Vitt.
nuele 325,
Emma-
Piazzetta dell’ Aquila
325.
Pineta, La 332.
Ss. Romualdo aie
Rotonda, the 331.
Ss. Spirito 330.
S$. Teodoro 330,
S. Vitale 328.
Torre del Pubblico 328. |
Raxalp, the 51.
Realta "87,
Reana del Rojale 50.
Rebbio 166.
Recea, the 282.
Recco 120.
Recoaro 218.
Reggio 288.
Reggiolo 214.
Regoledo 156.
Reichenau 36.
Reichenau Valley 61.
Reifenstein, Castle 42.
S. Remigio, Promont. 170.
S. Remo 103.
Remoulins 145.
St. Remy 13.
Reno,
304.
Renoso, Monte 458.
S. Reparata, Monte 460.
Resegone, Monte 147. 150.
Resia 50,
Resiutta 50.
Restonica, the 458.
Retrone, the 214,
the 290. 301. 308.
INDEX.
Reuss, the 30. 31. 32.
Reyzousse, the 23.
Rezzano 287.
Rezzato 185.
Rezzonica, Villa 228.
Rezzonico 156.
Rhaziins 37.
Bbein, the Averser 38.
, Hinter- 36. 41.
” Mittel- AO.
a Vorder- 36. 40.
Rheinwaldthal, the38.40.
Rhine, the 36. "87, etc.
Rho 165.
Rhone, the 6.092 sete
—, la Perte du 24.
Ricordi, Villa 182.
Riddes 27.
Riemenstaldenthal, the
ade
Rienzer Stock, the 33.
Rietberg 37.
Rifredi 364.
Rigi, the 30.
Riglio 182.
Rigoli 351.
Rindelfluh Tunnel 30,
Ringelspitz, the 37.
Rinkenberg 40.
Riola 333.
Riomaggiore 121.
Ripafratta 351.
Ritorto, the 4150.
— di Palanzo 149.
—, Lago di 39.
Rivaligure 103.
Rivarolo 83.
Rivera 3b.
Riviera, the 85.
|— di Levante 119.
|— di Ponente 100.
| Rivoli 47.
Roasco 158.
Robecco 180.
Robillante 118.
Roccabruna 109.
Rocca d’Anfo 188.
Roccavione 118.
Rocchetta 82. 187.
Roche-Michel,
Rodi 33.
Rofna Gorge,
Rogliano 460.
Rognac 17.
Rogoredo 176. 285.
Rohrbach, the 33.
Tunnel 32.
the 26.
the 38.
| Roja, the 106. 147.
Riva (Lake of Como) 39.
— (Lake of Garda) 187.
Rivellata, Promont. 460.
Rolo 214.
Romagna, the 283.
Romagnano 175.
Romano (near Bassano)
228.
— (near Treviglio) 180.
S. Romano 340.
Romena 451.
Romerbad 54.
S. Romolo 106.
Roneaglia 182.
Ronchi 281.
Ronco 169. 174.
Ronco, the 332.
Rondinaja 334.
Rongellen 37.
Roquebrune 109.
Rosa 227.
Rosa, Monte 29.
Rossano 227.
Rossillon 24.
S. Rossore 351.
Rosta 26.
Rostino 459.
Rota del Dragone 458.
Rothenbrunnen 387.
Rothkreuz 30.
Roth-See, the 30.
Rotonda, Villa (Brianza)
150.
— (near Vicenza) 218.
Rotondo, Monte 458.
Rotta, La 340.
Rottofreno 81.
Rovato 185.
Rovenna 153.
Roverbella 209.
Roveredo (Bernardino)
Ad.
— (Tyrol) 47.
Rovigo 300.
Rovio 160.
Rubbio 281.
Rubiera 290.
Rudenz, Castle of 31.
Russi 323.
Ruta 120.
Rocchetta Pass, the 44.
Roche Melon, the 26. 72.
Riitli, the 31.
Sabbia, Val 188.
Sabbio 188.
Sabiona 43.
Sacile 279.
Sacro Monte, the (near
Orta) 174.
— (near Varallo) 176.
Sagor 5A.
Sagra, La 26.
Sagrado 281.
Sagro, Monte 123,
Saifnitz 50.
Sala 153.
Salassins,
Pont des 75.
aa
———
ae
a
ee te
ie aR
————S
eS
478
Salbertrand 26.
Sale 84.
Sale Marasino 195.
Salgesch 27.
Salloch 54.
Salo 187.
Salon 17.
Salorino 160.
Salquenen 27.
Saluggia 77.
Salurn 44.
Salussola 77.
Salute, La 169.
Saluzzo 118.
S. Salvatore, near Lucca
nee
S. Salvatore, Monte 163.
S. Salvi 449.
Samoggia 290.
Sampierdarena 99.
Sandigliano 77.
Sanguinarie, Isole 455.
Sann, the 54.
Sannazzaro 179.
Sannthal, the 53.
Sanremo 103.
Sansobbia, the 102.
Santerno, the 323.
Santhia 77.
Santicolo 196.
Santino 171.
Santo, Monte 281.
Santuario di Savona 84.
Sadne, the 6.
Saorgio 117.
Sarca, the 46.
Sarca, Val 46.
Sarche, Le 46.
Sardagna 47.
Sarmato 81.
Sarnico 195.
Sarnthal, the 43.
Saronno 146.
Sartene 457.
Sartirana 180.
Sarzana 122.
Sarzanella 122.
Sassa Plana 38.
Sassella 158.
Sassi di Simone 452.
Sassina, Val 457.
Sasso 333.
— S. Martino 155.
— Rancio, il 156.
— del Ferro, the 170.
Sassuolo 299.
Sau, the 54.
Saualpe, the 48.
Sava DA.
Save, the 54.
Savena, the 308.
Savigliano 118.
Savignano 334,
INDEX.
Savona 102.
—, Santuario di 84.
Savoureuse, the 4.
Savoy 25.
Saxon, Baths of 27.
Scarena 117.
Schachenbach, the 31.
Schams, Valley of 38.
Scheifling 48.
Schelleberg 42.
Schignano 364.
Schio 218.
Schleglmiihl 51.
Schleuis 40.
Schlitza 49.
Schmirner Thal, the 42.
Schneeberg, the 51.
Schottwien 52.
Schrattenberg 48.
Schwanau 30.
Schwarzau, the 51.
Schwyz 30.
Schyn Pass 37.
Scrivia, the 80. 82.
Scudelatte 160.
Seben, Monastery 43.
Sebenstein, Castle 51.
Seca , the 290. 296.
18
Seckau 53.
Secugnago 285.
Seelisberg 31.
Seethal-Alps, the 48.
Seewen 30.
Segrino, Lago 149.
Seillon 24.
Seitz 53.
Semedella 58.
Semmering 52.
—, the 51.
Sempione 28.
Sens 2.
Serbelloni, Villa 155.
Serchio, the 124. 356.
Seregno 147.
Seriate 185.
Serio, the 185.
igor promontory
Sernio 158.
Serra 299.
Serra Mts., the 460.
Serraggio 158.
Serraglio, Ponte a 356.
Serravalle (Apennines)
— (Tyrol) A7.
— (Tuscany) 357.
— (Venetia 278.
Serravezza 124.
Servola 58.
Sesia, the 77. 175.
i—, Wal 175.
Sessana 5d. yen ~
Sesto, near Florence 364.
, near Milan 146.
Sesto Calende 167.
Sestri Levante 121.
— Ponente 101.
Setta, brook 333.
Settignano 452.
Settimo 77.
Settimo-Vittone 74.
Seveso, the 149.
Siebeneich 43.!
Sierre 27.
Sieve, the 449.
Sigmundskron 48. 44,
Signa 341.
Silenen 32.
Sill, the 41. 42.
Sillaro, the 323.
Simone, the Sassi di 452.
Simpeln or
Simplon 28.
— Pass, the 28.
Singorna, the 452.
Sion 27.
Sisikon 31.
Sitten 27.
Sizzano 175.
Soave, Castle 214.
Soazza 41.
Soci 451.
Solagna AT.
Solano, the 450.
Solarolo 323. ;
Solbiate 166.
Sole, Val di 196.
Solero 82.
Solferino 185.
Somma 167.
Somma Campagna 185.
Sommariva, Villa s. Ve
Carlotta.
Sommazzo 160.
Somvix A0.
Sondalo 158.
Sondrio 158. 196.
Sonnwendstein, the 51.
Sopra Villa 149
Soragno 163.
Soresina 180.
Sorgue, the 12.
Soregues 10.
Sornico 159.
Sospello 117.
Sotto, Valle di 158.
Souzon, the 3.
Spezia, La 121.
Spielfeld 53.
Spigno 82. 84.
Spinetta 80.
Spital 52.
Spluga 38.
| Spliigen 38.
| Spliigen Pass, the 38.
Spotorno 102.
Sprechenstein, Castle 42.
Spresiano 278.
Stafflach 42.
Staffora, the 80.
Stalvedro, Stretto di 33.
Stanghella 300
S. Stefano (Riv. di Po-
nente) 102.
— Belbo 84.
— in Pane 446.
— near Piacenza 28).
Steinach 42.
Steinbriick 54.
Steinen 30.
Steinenberg 30.
Stello, Monte 460.
Sterzing 42.
Stia 451.
| Storo 188.
Stradella 81.
Strahlloch Tunnel 382.
Strambino 73.
Strassburg 4.
Strassengel,Church of 52.
Stresa 172.
Stretta 459.
Strona, the 29.
Stura, the 77. 84. etc.
Sturla 119.
Stutzeck 31.
Succursale di Torino77.
Sugana, Val 46.
Sulm, the 53.
Sulzano 195.
Sulzbach Alps, the 53.
Sulzberg, the 196.
Sulzeck 31.
Suna 171.
Superga, the 73.
Surettahorn, the 38.
Susa 26.
Susten 27.
Suvers 38.
Suzzara 214.
Taceno 157.
Taggia 103.
Taglioni, Villa 152.
Tagstein 37.
Tain 9.
Talfer, the 43.
Tambohorn, the 38.
Tanaro, the 80. 81.
Tanlay 3.
Tanzi, Villa 153.
Tagliamento, the 50. 279.
INDEX.
Tanzina, Villa 161.
Tarascon 13.
Tarcento 50.
Taro, the 288.
Tarvis 49.
Tassino, the 161.
Tavanasa 40.
Tavazzano 28d.
Tavera 458.
Taverna, Villa 153.
Taverne 36.
Tavernelle 214.
H
Tavignano, the 458.
Tavordo 164.
Teglio 158. 196.
Telegrafo, Monte 188.
Tell’s Platte 31.
Telvana, Castle 46.
Tenay 24.
Tenda 117.
—, Col di 118.
Tenno 188.
Teplitza 54.
S. Terenzo 122.
Terlago 46.
Terlan 43.
Ternitz 51.
Terzo 82.
Tesino, the 46. 189.
Tessin s. Ticino.
Tezze, Le 46.
Thalheim 48.
Thalie, the 4.
Theresienfeld 51.
Thiene 218.
Thomery 2.
Thorl 49.
Thumburg 42.
Thusis 37.
Tiarno 188.
Tiebel 49.
Tiene, see Thiene.
Tierser Thal 43.
Tiffen 49.
Tignale 187.
Timavo, the 282.
Tirano 158.
Titan, Ile du 21.
Toblino, Castle 46.
Toblino, Lake of 46.
Toccia or
Toce s. Tosa.
Tonale, Monte 196.
Tonnerre 2.
Torano, the 123.
Torbole 188.
Torcello 277.
Torno 153.
Tassone, Cavo,Canal 301.
Theodule Pass, the 7.
Ticino, the 33. 161. ete.
Tivano, Piano del 153.
A79
Torrazza di Verolan 77,
Torre-Beretti 80. 179.
— del Gallo 444.
di Lago 124.
Luserna 73.
d’Orlando 288.
Pellice 73.
de’ Picenardi 182.
di Vezio 156.
Torretta 116.
Torri 188. 189.
Torrigia 153.
Tortona 80.
Tosa, the 29. 168. etc.
Toscolano 187.
Tosi 449.
Toulon 21.
Tour, La 73.
Tourbillon, Castle 27.
Tourette, La 116.
Tournanche, Val 75.
Tournon 9.
Tournus 4.
Tourtemagne 27.
Tovo 158.
Tradate 166.
Tramin 44.
Tratta, Monte 188.
Trautson, Chateau 42.
TraviTunnel and Viaduct
34.
Tre Croci 166.
Trebia, the St.
Trecate 79.
Treibach 48,
Tremezzina, the 154.
Tremezzo 154.
Tremosine 187.
Trent 44.
Tre Potenze 334.
Tresa, the 164, 168.
Tresenda 158.
Trevano 163.
Treviglio 182.
Treviso 277.
Trezzo 159.
Tricesimo 50.
Trieste 55.
Trifail 54.
Trigione, the 459.
Trimelone, Island 189.
Trinité, La 117.
Trinquetaille 16.
Trins 40.
Trinserhorn, the 37.
Trivella, Castle 117.
Trivulzio 41.
Trobaso 171.
Trofarello 81.
Trostburg, Castle 43.
Trotti, Villa 153.
A480
Tschitsch 43. Turin:
'‘Viiffer, Markt 54. Piazza dello Statuto
Turbia 109. 70.
Surin 60. Picture Gallery 66. Varrone, the 157. 188.
Accademia delle Belle| Polytechn. School 72.|Vassena 159.
Arti 71. Protestant Church 72.|}Vaucluse 12.
— delle Scienze 65. Rail. Stations 60. Vedeggio, the 35.
Armoury 64. S. Spirito 69. St. Veit 49.
Botanic Garden 72. SS. Sudario 68. Velars 3.
Campo Santo 73. Superga 73. Velasquez, Villa 157.
Capp. del SS. Sudario| Synagogue 71. Velleia 287.
68. Tempio Valdese 72. |Venda, Monte 299.
University 70. Venetia 197.
Valentino, the 72. Venetian Mts. 46.
INDEX.
Varese 165.
—, Lago di 166.
Varignano 188.
Capuchin Monastery
19
Cathedral 68.
Cavallo di Marmo 64.
Cavour's Monument 68.
Cemetery 73.
Conservatorium 69.
Consolata, La 69.
Corpus Domini 69.
S. Domenico 69.
Engl. Church Service
5)
Exchange 68.
Galleria delV Industria
Subalpina 63.
Giardino Pubblico 72.
— Reale 64.
— della Citadella 70.
— dei Ripari 71.
Gran Madre di Dio 72.
Industrial Museum 68.
Library, Royal 64.
-—, University 70.
Liceo Musicale 69.
S. Massimo 72.
a ak 63. 64. 68.
Museo Civico 71.
— Eegizio 69.
— Lapidario 70.
Museum of Antiquities
65.
Nat. Hist. Museum 65.
Ospedale di S. Giov.
Batt. 68.
Palazzo dell’ Accade-
mia delle Scienze 65.
— Carignano 65.
— di Citta 69.
- — Madama 63.
— Reale 63.
— delle Tori 69.
Piazza Carignano 65.
—S, Carlo. 68,
— Carlo Alberto 65.
— Carlo Emmanuele
68.
— Carlo Felice 70.
— Castello 63.
— Savoia 69.
— Solferino 70,
Via di Po 63. 70.
— Roma 68
Villa della Regina 72.
Zoolog. Garden 64.
Turr, La 38.
Turtman 27.
Tuscany 335.
Vccello, Pizzo 38.
Udine 279.
Uggowitz 50.
Unterau 42.
Untermais 43.
Unzmarkt 48.
Uri, the Lake of 31.
Urio 153.
Urirothstock, the 31.
Usmate 149.
Usselle 75.
Vado 102.
Vajano 364.
Val Madonna 180.
VOttavo 356.
Rhein 38. AO.
Tellina 158.
Travaglia 170.
Valais, the Canton of 27.
Valdieri, Baths of 118.
Valence 10.
Valenza 80. 179.
Valeria, Castle 27.
Vallauris 23.
Valle 80.
Vallecrosia 106.
Vallombrosa 449.
Valmadonna 77. 80.
Valmara, the 168.
Valserine Viaduct 24.
Valstagna AT.
Valtravaglia 170.
Vaprio 180.
Var, the 23. 85. 117.
Vara, the 121.
Varallo 175.
Varallo-Pombia 179.
Varazze 102.
Varedo 149.
Varenna 156.
Venice 228.
Accademia delle Belle
Arti 248.
S. Antonino 274,
SS. Apostoli 265.
Archaeological
seum 245.
Archives 267.
Arco Bon 263.
Arsenal 247.
Banca Nazionale 258.
S. Bartolomme, 264.
Baths 231.
Beccherie 265.
Beer 229.
S. Biagio 247.
Boats 229.
Booksellers 231.
Botan. Garden 262.
Bridge of Sighs 247.
Ca da Mosto 259.
Ca del Duca 257.
Ca d’Oro 259.
Cafés 229.
Campanile of St. Mark
244
Mu-
Campo di Marte 276.
— della Carita 256.
— S. Vitale 256.
Canal Grande 255.
Canareggio, the 262.
Carceri 247.
Carmine 268.
Carnival, the 232.
S. Cassiano 265.
S. Caterina 270.
Chemists 232.
Cemetery Island 276.
Climate 232.
Clock Tower 241.
Colleoni, Statue of 273.
Consulates 231.
Corso Vitt. Emanuele
265.
Corte del Remer 259.
Diga di Malamocco 237.
Dogana di Mare 255.
Doges, Palace of the
242.
Venice:
S. Elena (island) 276.
English Church 232.
Erberia 259. 265.
S. Eustachio 260.
Exhibition of Art 232.
Fabbriche Nuove and
Vecchie 259.
S. Fantino 268.
S. Felice 265.
Fish Market 259.
Fondaco de’ Tedeschi
259.
— de’ Turchi 260.
Fondamenta Nuove
Bite
— delle Zattere 229.
pa tay
S. Francesco della
Vigna 273
Frari 266.
Frezzaria 231.
Galleria Manfredini
256.
S. Geremia 261.
Gesuiti 271.
Ghetto Vecchio 262.
S. Giacomo dell’ Orto
262.
S. Giacometto di Rialto
265.
Giardino Papadopoli
261.
— Reale 242.
Giardini Pubblici 276.
S. Giobbe 262. -
S. Giorgio Maggiore
QTA.
— dei Greci 274.
— degli Schiavoni 274.
SS. Giovanni e Paolo!
Q71.
— in Bragora 274.
— Elemosinario 265.
— Crisostomo 264.
Giudecca, the 275.
S. Giuliano 264.
Gobbo di Rialto™ 265.
Gondolas 229.
Grand Canal 255.
Guides 230.
History 233.
— of Art 235.
Hotels 228.
Hotels Garnis 229.
Lagune, the 236.
S. Lazzaro 277.
Library 242.
— of St. Mark 245.
Lido 276.
S. Lio 263.
S. Lorenzo 274.
Manin’s Tomb 240.
INDEX.
Venic:
Manin's Monument 269.
S. Marco 2388.
S. Marcuola 260.
S. Maria Formosa 263.
— de] Carmine 268.
dei Frari 266.
Mater Domini 265.
de’ Miracoli 273.
dell’ Orto 271.
della Pieta 247.
della Salute 270.
Zobenigo 268.
. Martino 274.
. Marziale 270.
. Maurizio 269.
Merceria, the 241. 263.
Mint, the 242,
Misericordia, Abbad.
PR Sl [tee vy
S. Moise 268.
Mosaics 232.
Municipio 258.
Murazzi 237.
Museo Civico Correr
260.
Nuova Fabbrica 238.
Omnibus boats 228.
Pal. Albrizzi 266.
— degli Ambasciatori
257.
Palazzo Balbi 257,
— Barbarigo 257.
— Barbaro 256.
— Battagia 260.
— Bembo 258.
— Bernardo 257.
— Bianca Capello 262.
— de’ Camerlenghi 259.
— Cavalli 256. 258.
— Contarini 256.
— Contarini-Fasan
256.
— Contarini delle Fi-
gure 257.
— Contarini degli
Serigni 256.
— Corner della Ca
Grande 256.
— Corner- Mocenigo
266.
— Corner della Regina
259.
— Corner-Spinelli 258.
— Da Mula 256.
— Dandolo 258.
— Dario-Angarani 256.
— Ducale (of the
Doges) 242.
— Emo-Treves 256.
— Erizzo 260.
— Farsetti 258.
— Ferro 256.
BAEDEKER. Italy I. 6th Edit.
481
Venice:
Palazzo Fini-Wimpffen
256.
— Fontana 259.
— Foscari 257.
— Frangini 261.
— Gambara 256.
— Garzoni 257.
— Giovanelli 270.
— Giustiniani 255.
Q57.
— Giustiniani-Reca-
nati 275.
— Giustinian-Lolin
256.
— Grassi 257.
— Grimani 258. 263.
— — della Vida 260.
— Labia 262.
— Loredan 258.
— Malipiero 257. 263.
— Manfrin 262.
— Mangilli-Valma-
rana 259.
— Manin 258.
— Manzoni-Angarani
256.
— Michieli dalle Co-
lonne 259.
— Mocenigo 25
— Moro-Lin apy.
— Morosini 269.
— Papadopoli 258.
— Patriarcale 262.
— Persico 257.
— Pesaro 259.
— Pisani 269.
— — Moretta 258.
pea) §. Paolo 251
— Querini 263.
— Reale 237.
— Rezzonico 257.
— Sagredo 259.
— Savornian 262.
— Tiepolo 257.
— Tiepolo-Stiirmer
258.
— Tiepolo-Zucchelli
256.
— Trevisani 262.
— Tron 260.
— Vendramin 260.
— Venier 256.
— Zichy-Esterhazy
256.
Paleocapa, Monum. of
269.
S. Pantaleone 268.
Pensions 229.
Pescheria 259.
Physician 232.
Photographs 231.
Piazza of St. Mark 237.
34
» ARistoire. ©.4¥.5\200 la Glaciére
re 21 Halle et Marehe’ ¥.¥
‘Wagner & Debes, Leipzig
to Nice. NIMES. 1. Route. 13
its extremity the sources of the Sorgue emerge from a profound grotto,
at one time in precipitate haste,-at another in gentle ripples. This spot
is mentioned by Petrarch in his 14th Canzone, ‘Chiare, fresche e dolci
acque.’
Soon after quitting Avignon the train crosses the broad bed
of the often impetuous and turbid Durance, the Roman Druentia.
A474 M. Tarascon (Hotel des Empereurs; Rail. Restaurant), with
13,000 inhab., once the seat of King Réné of Anjou, the great
patron of minstrelsy, whose lofty old castle and above it the Gothic
spire of the church of St. Marthe (14th cent.) arrest the traveller’s
attention. — On the opposite bank, and connected with Tarascon by
a bridge, is situated the busy town of Beaucaire, commanded by an
ancient castle of the Counts of Toulouse.
From Tarascon To St. Remy (10 M., branch line in 40 min.; one-
horse carr. for the excursion 10 fr.). On the site of the ancient Glanum,
1/, M. above the small town, are situated two interesting “Roman Mon-
uments. One of these, 53 ft. in height, resembling the celebrated mon-
ument of Igel near Tréves, was erected by the three brothers Sextus,
Lucius, and Marcus Julius to the memory of their parents, and is con-
structed of massive blocks of stone in three different stories. This magnifi-
cent relic belongs to the time of Cesar. Adjacent to it is a half ruined
*“Triumphal Arch, also adorned with sculptures.
Continuation of the line to Marseilles, see p. 15.
RAILWAY FROM TaRAscon To Nimgs, 17 M., in 1/9-1 hr. (fares
3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 80c.). The train crosses the Rhone to
Beaucaire (see above) and passes several unimportant stations.
17 M. Nimes. — Omnibus to the hotels 1/2 fr., cab 1 fr. — Granp
H6tTEeEL pu LuxemBoure (PI. a; F, 4), in the Boulevard St. Antoine; *HOTEL
Manivet (Pl. c; E, 4), opposite the Maison Carrée, moderate; HOTEL pu
Mipr (Pl. d; D, 8), Place de la Couronne; CHEvAaL Buianc (Pl. b; E, 4),
opposite the Arena. Good Cafés in the esplanade, at the Arena, and at
the Maison Carrée.
Nimes, the ancient Nemausus , capital of the Gallic Arecomaci,
and one of the most important places in Gallia Narbonensis, is now
the chief town of the Department of the Gard. The town, which
numbers 15,000 Protestants among its present population of 63,000,
has several times been the scene of fierce religious struggles, espe-
cially during the reign of Louis XIV. The Roman antiquities here
are of extreme interest.
The town is surrounded by pleasant Boulevards, which termin-
ate in the Esplanade, adorned with a handsome modern fountain-
group by Pradier (representing the city of Nemausus, with four
river-deities; 1845). A few paces to the W. of this point lies the
Roman *ARENA or AMPHITHEATRE (Pl. 3; E, 4), consisting of two
stories, each with 60 arcades, together 74 ft. in height. The exterior
is in excellent preservation. The interior contains 32 tiers of seats
(entrance on the W. side, where a notice indicates the dwelling of
the concierge; 50 c.), and could accommodate 20,000 spectators ;
longer axis 145, shorter 112 yds., height 74 ft., inner arena 76 by
42 yds. ; upper gallery about !/,M. in circumference.
The founder is unknown, but is conjectured to have been the emperor
14 Route 1. NIMES. From Paris
Antoninus Pius, about 140 A.D., whose ancestors were natives of Nemau:
sus. Some authorities believe that it was intended for ‘naumachie’, or
naval sports, and left unfinished. The four original entrances are still
traceable. Doors in the pavement of the arena lead to the (modern) ‘souter-
rain’, the ceiling of which is supported by beams. In the early middle ages
the Arena was employed by the Visigoths and afterwards (720-737) by
the Saracens as a fortress. Charles Martel expelled the Saracens, but the
Arena continued to be used as a fortress and down to the end of the
14th century was garrisoned by an order of knights named the ‘Milites
Castri Arenarum’. It was afterwards taken possession of by the lower
classes, who built their wretched hovels within its walls, and these were
not finally removed till 1809. Extensive works of restoration have re-
cently been made, especially in the interior and on the E. side of the
exterior, as the Arena is still used for the exhibition of bull-fights (but
of a bloodless character).
We now descend the Boul. St. Antoine to the Hospital (P1.17;
D, 3, 4), which stands on the left and contains the *Museum and
the Library. In the former are about 200 pictures, including several
good works by modern French artists, and an extensive collection
of Roman inscriptions and other antiquities (on the ground-floor).
The Boulevard ends at the Place de la Comédie, on the right
side of which rises the “Matson CarrusE (P1.19; D, 3), a well-pre-
served and very graceful temple (83 ft. long, 42 ft. wide), with
30 Corinthian columns (10 detached, 20 immured), probably dating
from the reign of Antoninus Pius. It was employed as a church in
the middle ages and subsequently as a town-hall. This temple was
connected with other buildings, the foundations of which still exist,
and in all probability constituted part of the ancient forum, like
the similar temple at Vienne (p. 9). It is now being judiciously
restored.
From the Maison Carrée the visitor should next proceed by the
Boulevards and the canal to the Jardin de la Fontaine, where the
*“Nympuaum (PI. 28; B,C, 2), formerly supposed to be a Temple of
Diana, is situated. This fine vaulted structure, with niches for the
reception of statues, has partly fallen in; it contains statues, busts,
architectural fragments, etc., from the excavations which have been
made here. The nature of the extensive ruins behind the Nym-
pheum cannot now be ascertained. Here, too, are the Roman
*Baths excavated by Louis XIV. They contain a large peristyle
with low columns, a number of niches, a basin for swimming, and
the spring by which Nimes is now supplied with water. Well-kept
pleasure-grounds in the rococo style adjoin the baths. (The con-
cierge at the K. entrance to the garden keeps the keys of the Nym-
pheum and the Baths; 1 fr.)
Beyond the spring rises a hill with promenades, surmounted by
the *TouRMAGNE (turris magna; Pl. 30; ©, 1), a Roman structure,
variously conjectured to have been a beacon-tower, a temple, or a
treasury (keys at a small red house, to the right on the way from
the baths, about 200 paces below the summit). It was more pro-
bably a monumental tribute to some illustrious Roman. The tower
is of octagonal form, and is ascended by a modern staircase of 140
to Nice. MONTPELLIER. 1. Route. 15
steps. The *View from the summit well repays the ascent; it em-
braces the town and environs, as far as the vicinity of the estuary
of the Rhone, and the distant Pyrenees to the W. ‘The extent of
the ancient Nemausus is distinctly recognised hence; two of the an-
cient gates, the Porte d’ Auguste (Pl. 23; F, 3) and the Porte de
France (Pl. 24; D, 4, 5), are still partly preserved. The former,
discovered in 1793, has four entrances and bears the inscription:
Imp. Cansar. Divi. F(1t1us) Avevstvs. Cos. x1. Trip. Por. Por-
ras. Mvros. Qvxe. Con. Dat., signifying that Augustus provided
the colony of Nemausus with gates and walls in the year B.C. 23.
The other gate is of simpler construction , and one arch of it only
is preserved.
Excursion To THE Pont pU Garp, 14!/2 M., uninteresting country,
by carr. in 2 hrs. Carriage there and back 18 fr. (from the Hdétel du
Luxembourg). Or the traveller may go by rail to Remoulins (Rail. Re-
staurant), whence a branch-line diverges to Pont pu Garp (11/4 hr.; fares
3 fr. 20, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 80 c¢.).
The **Pont du Gard, a bridge and aqueduct over the Gard, which
descends from the Cevennes, passing the town of Alais with its extensive
iron-works, is one of the grandest Roman works in existence. The
desolate rocky valley of the Gard is bridged over by a threefold series
of arches (the lowest 6, the next 11, and the highest 35 in number) which
present a most majestic appearance. Agrippa, the general of Augustus,
is generally supposed to have been the founder, but without satisfactory
evidence. The object of this structure was to supply Nimes with water
from the springs of Airan near St, Quentin and Ure near Uzes, a distance
of 25 M. Several arches are also seen to the N. of the Pont du Gard, and
other traces of the aqueduct still exist nearer the town. The bridge for
carriages was added to the Roman aqueduct in 1743.
Beyond Nimes the train traverses the broad and fertile plain on the
S. of the Cevennes, and in 1-2 hrs. (fares 6.fr. 15, 4 fr. 60; 3 fr. 40.c.)
reaches —
Montpellier (Hétel Nevet; Hétel du Midi; Hotel du Cheval Blanc; Hétel
Bannel), capital of the Department of the Hérault, an industrial town
with 55,300 inhab., and the seat of a university founded in 1196. The
finest point in the town is the *Promenade du Peyrou, an extensive terrace
planted with lime-trees, with an equestrian Statue of Louis XIV., and
the Chdteau d’ Eau. Fine view hence; in clear weather the summit of the
Canigou in the Pyrenees is visible. The Jardin des Plantes is the oldest
in France. The Musée Favre contains a picture-gallery of some value,
the gem of which is a *Portrait of Lorenzo de’ Medici by Raphael. The
public Library possesses a few interesting MSS. and other curiosities. The
Ecole de Médecine may also be mentioned.
From Tarascon (p. 13) to Arxzs the railway skirts the lett
bank of the Rhone. The country, which is flat, and planted with
the vine and olive, presents a marked southern character. The
manners and unintelligible patois of the inhabitants differ materially
from those of N. France. The peculiar softness of the old Pro-
vencal language employed by the Troubadours may still be traced.
S is pronounced here like sh (e. g. pershonne), ch like s (serser for
chercher). The ancient love for song and poetry still survives, and
has given rise to a modern school of Provencal poets. These char-
acteristics, as well as the vivacious and excitable temperament
of the natives, betoken the gradual transition from France to Italy,
16° Route 1. ARLES. From Paris
483 M. Arles (*Hétel du Nord, D. with wine 4, B. 11/5, déj.
3, A. 1, L. 11/5 fr.; Hotel du Forum), the Arelate or Arelas of the
ancients, once one of the most important towns in Gaul and a flour-
ishing seat of commerce in the 5th cent. of our era, is now a some-
what dull place (25,100 inhab.) on the Rhone, 24M. from its mouth.
It is connected with Trinquetaille on the opposite bank by a bridge
of boats.
The principal sights of Arles, for which 3-4 hrs. suffice, are
all within easy distance from the hotels: to the EK. St. Trophime,
the extensive Museum, and the Theatre of Augustus; N. the Am-
phitheatre, and S.E. the Champs-Elysées.
In the Place of the Hoétel-de- Ville, which was erected in 1673,
rises an *Obelisk of grey granite from the mines of Estérel near
Fréjus (p. 24), an ancient monument of unknown origin, found in
the Rhone in 1676. It is destitute of hieroglyphic inscriptions.
In the vicinity stands the *CarHeprax or Sr, TRopume (Tro-
phimus is said to have been a pupil of St. Paul), founded in the 6th
or 7th cent., possessing an interesting Romanesque * Portal of the
12th or 13th cent., of semicircular form, supported by twelve columns
resting on lions, between which are apostles and saints (St. Tro-
phimus, St. Stephen, etc.); above it Christ as Judge of the world.
The INTERIOR contains little to interest the visitor, with the ex-
ception of several sarcophagi and pictures. — On the S. side (entered
from the sacristy) are the *CLoIsTeRs, with round and pointed arches
and remarkable capitals, dating from various epochs. The N. side is in
the half antique style of the Carlovingian period (9th cent.), the E. side
dates from 1221, the W. side (the most beautiful) from 1389, and the S.
side from the 16th century.
The *Musgum, established in the old church of St. Anna, con-
tains numerous antiquities found in and near Arles. The following
relics deserve special mention: *Head of Diana (or Venus); Augustus
(found in 1834); recumbent Silenus with pipe, once used as a
fountain-figure ; figures of dancing women (found in the theatre );
and sarcophagi from the ancient burial-ground (see below), ete.
The *T'HEATRE (commonly called that of ‘Augustus’), a most pic-
turesque ruin, is ina very dilapidated condition. The most perfect
part is the stage-wall, which according to the ancient arrangement
had three doors. In front of it was a colonnade, of which two col-
umns, one of African, the other of Carrara marble, are still stand-
ing. The opening for the letting down of the curtain is distinctly
recognisable. The orchestra, paved with slabs of variegated marble,
contained the seats of persons of rank. The lower tiers only of the
seats of the ordinary spectators are preserved.
The theatre once possessed a second story, indications of which are
observed when the ruin is viewed from the Saracens’ Tower (in the
direction of the public promenade). The dimensions of the building when
perfect were very extensive (breadth from N. to S. 3371/2 ft.), and the
effect it produces is extremely striking. ]
The *AMPHITHEATRE is larger than that of Nimes (p. 13), but
in inferior preservation. It is about 500 yds. in circumference; the
to Nice. ARLES. 1. Route. 17
longer axis is 150 yds., the shorter 1146 yds. long; the arena 75 yds.
long and 43 yds. wide. It possessed five corridors and forty-three
tiers of seats, holding 25,000 spectators. The two stories of 60
arches, the lower being Doric, the upper Corinthian, present a most
imposing aspect. The entrance is on the N. side.
The InTERIOR (the concierge lives opposite the N. entrance) was for-
merly occupied by a number of dwellings tenanted by poor families, but
these have been almost entirely removed since 1846-47. After the Roman
period the amphitheatre was employed by the Goths, then by the Sara-
cens, and again by Charles Martel (who expelled the latter in 739), as a
stronghold, two of the four towers of which are still standing. A stair-
case of 103 steps ascends the W. tower, which commands a pleasing sur-
vey of the neighbourhood. The vaults beneath the lowest tier of seats
served as receptacles for the wild beasts, the gladiators, etc. They com-
municated with the arena by means of six doors. The spectators of high
rank occupied the front seats and were protected from the attacks of the
wild animals by a lofty parapet. Bloodless bull-fights are now occasion-
ally exhibited here.
In the Place du Forum, the site of the ancient market-place,
two granite pillars and fragments of a Corinthian pediment are still
seen (near the Hotel du Nord). — On the bank of the Rhone lie
the remains of a palatial building, probably of the time of Con-
stantine.
On the 8.E. side of the town are the Champs Elysées (Aliscamps),
originally a Roman burying-ground, consecrated by St. Trophimus
and furnished by him with a chapel. In the middle ages this
cemetery enjoyed such celebrity that bodies were conveyed hither
for sepulture from vast distances. It is mentioned by Dante in
his Inferno (9, 112): ‘Si come ad Arli, ove Rodano stagna,
fanno i sepoleri tutto il loco varo’. (‘As at Arles where the Rhone
is dammed, . the graves make the whole ground uneven’. )
To this day many ancient sarcophagi are still to be seen in the
environs of the curious old church, although after the first Re-
volution great numbers were sold to relic-hunters from all parts
of the world.
From ARLES TO MONTPELLIER (p. 15) a branch-line runs in 1!/2 hr.
Below Arles begins the flat delta of the estuary of the Rhone called
the Jle de la Camargue. It is protected against the incursions of the sea
by dykes, and is employed partly as atable and partly as pasture land,
which supports numerous flocks and herds. A canal, constructed in 1864-71,
admits vessels to the estuary of the Rhone, which had previously been
inaccessible.
Between Arles and Salon the line intersects the stony plain of
Crau, which the ancients mention as the scene of the contest of
Hercules with the Ligures. Near St. Chamas the line skirts the
long Etang de Berre, an extensive inland-lake on the right. From
(519 M.) Rognae a branch-line diverges to Aix, the ancient Aquae
Sextiae. Beyond (525 M.) Pas-des-Lanciers the train traverses the
longest tunnel in France, nearly 3 M. in length, on emerging from
which it passes some grand rocky scenery. The sea now comes in
sight, and the rocky islands of Chateau d’If, Ratonneau, etc., are
seen rising from the Gulf of Marseilles.
BarpEKER. Italy I. 6th Edit. By
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18 Route 1. MARSEILLES. From Paris
536 M. Marseilles. — Arrival. Hotel Omnibuses at the station
(1/2-11/2fr.). Cabs (‘voitures de la gare’), with two seats, 1 pers. ifr. 25;
with four seats, 1 pers. 1fr. 75c¢.; each pers. additional 206.5 “each
trunk 25c. — Carriages in the town (‘voitures de place’), one-horse, per
drive 1fr., per hour 2fr.; two-horse, 1!/, and 2!/sfr.; from midnight till
6 a.m., one-horse 4!/2 and 2/2, two-horse 2 and 3fr.
Hotels. *H6ren Noariies (Pl. c; D, 3), *Granp HéTEL pu Louvre ET
DE LA Parx (Pl. a; D, 3), with 250 rooms and a lift, principal facade
facing the S., *Granp HOTEL DE MarsEILLe (PI. b; D, 3), with lift, all
three in the Rue de Noailles, and fitted up in the style of the great
Parisian hotels, rooms from 2 fr. upwards, table d’hote at 6 p.m. 5-6 fr.,
B. 11/2-2 fr., A. and L. 11/2 fr.; Héven pz CasTILiE ET DU LUXEMBOURG
(Pl. e; D, 3), Rue St. Ferréol 25; Hore. pes Cotonres, Rue Vacon; HOret
DES PrinoEs (Pl. f; D,3), Place de la Bourse; HOTEL p’ITatig, at the har-
bour; HOTEL DE Rome (PI.h; D, 3), patronised by Roman Catholic clergy ;
HOTEL pu Petit Louvre (Pl. d; D, 3), Rue Cannebiére 16. At the station,
Terminus HoTEL, a large new building erected by the railway company, R.
4-12 fr. — The white wines usually drunk are Chablis, Graves, and Sauterne.
Restaurants. Maison Dorée, Rue Noailles 5; *La Réserve (Roubion ;
see p. 20), famed for its ‘doutllabaisse’, a kind of fish-soup, of which the
praises have been sung by Thackeray.
Cafés. Café de France, Rue Cannebiére 3; Café Glacier, Place de la
Bourse 1; and many others.
Post Office, Rue Grignan 53 (Pl. 37; E, 3). — Telegraph Office, Rue
Pavé-d’Amour 10.
Tramways intersect the town in various directions. Fares 10 ¢. and
upwards.
Steamboats to Ajaccio (Corsica), Algiers, Genoa, Naples, Palermo,
Mattia, Barcelona, etc.
Sea Baths, handsomely fitted up, in the Anse des Catalans (Pl. E, 6),
on the E. side of the town, below the conspicuous former Résidence Im-
périale, which is now a hospital; also warm sea-water baths, douche,
vapour, etc., for gentlemen and ladies. Adjacent, a large Hérrz, with
restaurant. Omnibus to or from the town 30c. The Bains du Roucas
Blane (Pl. H, 4), somewhat more distant, are also well fitted up and
contain similar baths; hotel and pension in connection.
English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain.
Marseilles, with 319,000 inhab., the capital of the Department
of the Embouchures of the Rhone and the headquarters of the XV.
Corps d’Armée, is the principal sea-port of France, and the depdt
of a brisk maritime traffic with the East, Italy, and Africa.
Massilia was a colony founded about B.C. 600 by Greeks from Phocea
in Asia Minor, who soon became masters of the sea, defeated the Car-
thaginians in a naval battle near Corsica, and stood in friendly alliance
with the Romans as early as B. C.390. They also established new colonies in
their neighbourhood, such as Tawroeis (near Ciotat), Olbia (near Hyeres),
Antipolis (Antibes), and Nicaea (Nice), all of which, like their founders,
adhered to the Greek language, customs, and culture. Massilia maintained
this reputation until the imperial period of Rome, and was therefore treat-
ed with leniency and respect by Julius Cesar when conquered by him,
B.C. 49. Tacitus informs us that his father-in-law Agricola, a native of
the neighbouring Roman colony of Forum Julii (Fréjus), found, even under
Claudius, ample opportunities for completing his education at Massilia
in the Greek manner, for which purpose Athens was usually frequented.
The town possessed temples of Diana (on the site of the present cathedral),
of Neptune (on the coast), of Apollo, and other gods. Its government was
aristocratic. After the fall of the W. Empire Marseilles fell successively
into the hands of the Visigoths, the Franks, and Arelate; it was de-
stroyed by the Saracens, restored in the 10th cent. and became subject to
the Vicomtes de Marseille; in 1218 it became independent, but shortly af-
terward succumbed to Charles of Anjou. In 1481 it was united to France,
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eer Boy
to Nice. MARSEILLES. 1. Route. 19
but still adhered to its ancient privileges, as was especially evident in
the wars of the Ligue, against Henry IV. In 1660 Louis XIV. divested the
town of its privileges, so that it retained its importance as a sea-port only.
In 1720 and 1721 it was devastated by a fearful pestilence. During the
revolution it remained unshaken in its allegiance to royalty and was there-
fore severely punished. In 1792 hordes of galley-slaves were sent hence
to Paris, where they committed frightful excesses. It was for them that
Rouget de Isle, an officer of engineers, composed the celebrated Marseil-
laise, ‘Allons, enfants de la patrie’, which subsequently became the battle-
hymn of the republican armies.
The docks and quays (comp. plan) are very extensive. The
harbour has been quadrupled in size since 1850, notwithstanding
which there is still a demand for increased accommodation. In 1853
the Port de la Joliette was added to the Ancien Port, and is now
the starting-point of most of the steamboats. The Bassin des Docks
and d’Arene were added next, in 1856 the Bassin Napoléon (now
National), and in 1872 the Bassins de Radoub. Other extensions
are projected. — The old harbour is long and narrow. Its entrance
is defended by the forts of St. Jean and St. Nicolas. Near the
former is the Consigne (Pl. 6; D, 5; adm. 50 c.), or office of the
‘Intendance Sanitaire’ (quarantine authorities).
The principal hall contains several good pictures: Horace Vernet, The
cholera on board the frigate Melpomene; David, St. Rochus praying to
the Virgin for the plague-stricken, painted in Rome, 1780; Puget, The
plague at Milan, a relief in marble; Gérard, Bishop Belsunce during the
plague of 1720 (see below); Tanneurs, The frigate Justine returning from
the East with the plague on board; Guérin, The Chevalier Rose directing
the sepulture of those who have died of the plague.
A few paces farther N. is the Carngprat (Pl. C, D, 5), a new
edifice constructed of alternate courses of black and white stone, in
a mixed Byzantine and Romanesque style, from the designs of
Vaudoyer and Espérandieu. The towers are surmounted by domes.
The terrace commands a pleasant survey of the Bassin de la Joli-
ette. — To the E., in front of the old harbour, is the former ‘Rési-
dence Impériale’, now Chdteau du Pharo, a hospital (Pl. E, 5). In
the vicinity are the sea-baths (p. 18).
*LA CANNEBIERE (Pl. D, 3), a broad and very handsome street,
intersects the town from W. to E., from the extremity of the
Ancien Port to the centre of the town where the ground rises. In
this street, a few paces from the harbour, stands the Bourse (Pl. 5),
with a portico of Corinthian columns, erected 1854-60.
A short distance further the Cours (Pl. C, D, 3) is reached on
the left, a shady promenade generally thronged with foot-pass-
engers, at the 8. end of which stands the statue of Bishop Belsunce,
who during the appalling plague in1720, which carried off 40,000
persons, alone maintained his post and faithfully performed the
solemn duties of his calling. — From this point the Rue d’Aix
ascends to the Arc de Triomphe (Pi.1; C, 3), erected in 1823, and
afterwards adorned with representations of Napoleonic battles in
relief by Ramey and David d’ Angers.
We now return to the Cannebiére. Opposite the Cours opens
2, #
20 Route 1. MARSEILLES. From Paris
the small Cours St. Louis, continued by the Rue de Rome and the
PROMENADE DU Pravo, which is 21/)M. in length (comp. Pl. F, G,
H,1). In the latter, at the point where it turns to the S.W.., lies
the Chateau des Fleurs, the property of the Rifle-shooting Club,
while at its end, close to the sea, is the Chateau Borély, situated
in an extensive park, and containing a valuable Musée des Antiques
(Egyptian, Phoenician, Greek, and Roman inscriptions and anti-
quities, Christian sarcophagi, valuable glass, ete.). —— To the left
in the Cours St. Louis, at the entrance to the narrow Rue de la
Palud, is a fountain, with an insignificant bust of Pierre Puget, the
celebrated sculptor, who was a native of Marseilles (1622-94).
At the E. end of the Boulevard de Longchamp rises the new
and handsome *Muskr DE Lonecuamp (PI. 34; B, 1), designed by
Espérandieu and consisting of two extensive buildings connected
by a colonnade of the Ionic order, adorned with a fountain in the
centre. The right wing contains the Musée d'Histoire Naturelle ; in
the other is the Musée des Beaux Arts, containing several good pic-
tures (Perugino, Madonna and Saints; Murillo, Capuchin Monk;
Holbein, portrait, retouched, and others).
The well-kept grounds at the back of the Museum extend to the
Jardin des Plantes and Zoological Garden (Pl. A, B, 1; adm. 50 c.).
*Vinw. The best survey of the town and environs is afforded
by the church of *Norrse DAME DE LA GARDE (Pl. F, 3), situated
on an eminence to the S. of the old harbour, an ancient shrine,
rebuilt from designs by Espérandieu in 1864. The highly ornate
interior contains an image of the Virgin and innumerable votive
tablets presented by those who have been rescued from shipwreck
or disease. The terrace in front of the church, and especially the
gallery of the tower (154 steps), which contains a huge bell, 10 tons
in weight, and is crowned with a large figure of the Virgin, com-
mand an admirable survey of the extensive city, occupying the
entire width of the valley, the innumerable white villas (bastides)
on the surrounding hills, the harbour and the barren group of
islands at its entrance, with the Chateau d If, where Mirabeau was
once confined (also mentioned in Dumas’ Monte Christo), and part
of the Mediterranean. Several different paths ascend to this point
from the old harbour, terminating in steps, a somewhat fatiguing
climb of 1/, hour. The full force of the prevailing Mistral (see
p. 12), or piercing N.W. wind, the scourge of Provence, is often
felt here. One-horse carriage to Notre Dame de la Garde 6-8 fr.
The following drive of several hours is recommended. Ascend the
Promenade du Prado (see above; Pl. F, G, 1), pass the Chdteau des Fleurs
(Pl. H, 1), descend to the sea, and return to the town by the picturesque
Chemin de la Corniche, on which lies the *Rest. Roubion (p. 18).
Rartway FRoM Marseiuurs to Nic (140 M., in 5-8 hrs. ; fares
27 fr. 70, 20 fr. 75, 15 fr. 20 ¢.; express with first class only). This
to Nice. TOULON. 1. Route. 21
interesting route at first traverses rocky defiles at some distance
from the sea, and, farther on, commands ‘striking views. Several
tunnels. — 23 M. La Ciotat, charmingly situated on the coast, and
the most beautiful point on the whole journey.
42M. Toulon (*Grand Hétel, near the station; Victoria; Croix
d Or ; Louvre; Railway Restaurant), the war-harbour of France for
the Mediterranean, with 70,500 inhab., possesses a double harbour,
protected by eleven forts which crown the surrounding heights. In
1707 the town was besieged in vain by Prince Eugene, and in 1793
the inhabitants surrendered to the English Admiral Hood. In De-
cember of that year it was gallantly defended by a small body of
English soldiers against an enemy of tenfold number, but was at
last taken by storm. The attack was conducted by Bonaparte, lieu-
tenant of artillery, then 24 years of age. Beautiful *View from the
hill on which stands the fort of La Malgue.
From Touton to Hygéres, 13 M., railway in 4!/, hr. (fares 3 fr. 55,
2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 95c.). — 5 M. La Garde; 7M. La Pauline (Rail. Restaurant),
where our line diverges from the main railway (see below). 13 M. Hyéres-
Ville, 1 M. from the station. 18 M. Les Salins ad Hyéres.
The small town of Hyéres (Hétels des Ambassadeurs, de Europe, des
Iles d@ Hyéres, all three open throughout the year; des Iles d’Or; des Hes-
pérides; @ Orient; du Parc; du Louvre; des Alpes Maritimes; des Princes;
Beau-Séjour; de la Méditerranée, less pretending, well spoken of), lies
21/2 M. from the sea, on the slope of a spur of the lofty Mts. des Maures,
but not sufficiently protected from the Mistral (see p. 12), which some-
times throws back the vegetation for years. Hyeéres has long been fre-
quented as a winter-residence by persons suffering from pulmonary com-
plaints (English physicians, Dr. Biden and Dr. Griffith). Beautiful
gardens and a fine avenue of palms. The Jslands of Hyéres (the Stoechades
of the ancients) are a group of rocky islands and cliffs near the coast.
The largest of them are the Jle du Levant or Titan, Portcros, Porquerolles,
and Bagueau. Some of them are fortified and inhabited, but they do not
enjoy so mild a climate as Hyéres itself, being more exposed to the wind.
The peninsula of Giens, which may be visited from Hyéres by carriage
(about 20 fr.), affords a charming view of the islands.
Beyond Toulon the train quits the coast and winds through the
Montagnes des Maures to the N.E. 47 M. La Garde; 491/. M. La
Pauline, where the branch to Hyéres diverges (see above). — 85 M.
Les Ares, whence a branch-line runs to Draguignan.
98 M. Fréjus (Hétel du Midi; Hotel de la Poste), a small town
with 3000 inhab., the ancient Forum Julii, founded by Julius
Cesar, contains the remains of a Roman amphitheatre, archway
(Porte Dorée), and aqueduct, none of which possess much interest.
101 M. St. Raphael, delightfully situated in a ravine on the
coast. At the small harbour of this place Napoleon landed in
Oct., 1799, on his return from Egypt. Here, too, after his abdi-
cation, he embarked for Elba, 28th April, 1814. The line tra-
verses a romantic, rocky district, occasionally affording charming
glimpses of the numerous bays of the coast. Several tunnels.
123 M. Cannes. — Hotels, upwards of sixty in number, of which a
few only need be mentioned. Near the sea, to the W.: *H6rEL D’EsTEREL;
*BEAU SITE, with lift, R. from 2fr.; *H6r. BELLEVUE; *PAVILLON; SQUARE
BroucHamM. — Near the sea, to the E.; H6r. pes Princes, D. 5, B. 11/2 fr.,
22 = ©Route 1. CANNES. From Paris
well spoken of; SpLenDIDE HOTEL, with lift; Beau Rivace; Gray & p’AL-
BION, well spoken of; GONNET & DE LA REINE; GRAND HOTEL DE CANNES (the
most handsomely fitted up); DE LA PLAGE; Vicror1A. — Farther from the
sea: *HOTEL-Pension Suisse, ‘pension’ 8 fr.; CentraL HOTEL, near the rail-
way-station; PENSION DE LA Patx; HOTEL DE LA MEDITERRANEE; PENS.
BEL-AIR; HOTEL DE FRANCE; WESTMINSTER, well spoken of; WiInpDsoR;
BEAU-SkJouR; *ST. CHARLES, moderate; DEsANGES. — In the Campagne:
BEAv-L1IEvU; *HOTEL D’ALSACE-LORRAINE; RussiE; “PENS. DE LERINS; RICHE-
MONT; *HOTEL ET PENSION MONTFLEURI; *PENS. VILLA MAvvARRE; HOTEL
DE LA CALIFORNIE, on Mont Californie; PARADIS ; PROVENCE; “PRINCE DE
GALLES, with a large garden.
The charges at the Pensions vary from 8 to 14 fr. per day, at the
larger hotels from 15 to 20 fr. and upwards. Private apartments are easily
obtained. Engagements are usually made for the whole season, from
October to May, the rent being 1200-2000 fr. and upwards. Cannes is con-
sidered a somewhat expensive place.
Cafés. Café des Allées, in the Cours; de Paris; de la Rotonde, in the
Boulevard de la Plage, etc. — Confectioner: *Rumpelmayer, on the beach,
by the Cercle Nautique.
Warm Baths. Bains de Notre Dame, Rue de la Foux; also in the
sea-bathing establishments.
Carriages. Within the town, one-horse carr. 1 fr., two-horse 1 fr.
5O0c. per drive; 2 fr. and 3fr. per hour; outside the town, somewhat higher,
according to tariff.
English Physicians. Dr. Frank; Dr. Bright; Drv. Batterby; Dr. Menzies;
Dr. Whiteley; Dr. Stephens (homeopathist).
English Churches. St. Paul’s, Boul. du Cannet, services during the
season at 8.30, 11, and 3, in April and May at 8, 11, and 4; chaplain, Rev.
W. M. Wollaston, M. A. — Christchurch, Route de Fréjus, at 8.30, 11, and 3;
chaplain, Rev. H. Percy Smith, M. A,— Holy Trinity, Rue Oustinoff, at 11 and
3; chaplain, Rev. W. Brookes, B. D. — There is also a Scotch Presbyterian
Church, with services at 11 and 3.
Climate. Cannes is protected on the N.W. by the Z£stérel Mts. and on
the N. and N.E. by other ranges of hills, but the beach is somewhat ex-
posed to the Mistral and the N.E. wind. It is thus at times, particularly
in spring, cooler and more windy than Mentone or San Remo, but its
winter-climate is usually mild, equable, and dry. The warmest and most
sheltered part of Cannes, and consequently that most suitable for patients
with pulmonary complaints, is the space between the N. side of the town
and the village of Le Cannet. Its comfortable accommodation, its excellent
drinking-water, and the numerous pretty drives in the vicinity, have co-
operated with its sheltered situation in making Cannes a most popular
winter-resort,. especially among the upper classes.
Cannes, a small but rapidly increasing town with 15,000 inhab.,
picturesquely situated on the Golfe de la Napoule, consists chiefly
of a main street, parallel with which, along the coast, runs the
Boulevard de la Plage, terminating on the W. in the Cours, a
‘place’ with promenades and fountains. The W. end of the town
is chiefly occupied by English families. The best French society is
also well represented.
The old town lies at the foot of the Mont Chevalier, on which
the parish-church rises, and from which the pier closing the 8. W.
side of the harbour extends. Fine view from the top.
Opposite the Cap de la Croisette , the promontory which sepa-
rates the Golfe de la Napoule from the Golfe de Jouan, rise the
Iles de Lérins. On Sainte Marguerite, the largest of these, is
situated Fort Monterey (poor inn), in which ‘the man with the
iron mask’ was kept in close confinement from 1686 to 1698, and
to Nice. ; ANTIBES. 1. Route. 23
recently well known as the prison of Marshal Bazaine (from 26th
Dec. 1873 to the night of 9th Aug. 1874, when he effected his
escape). The island commands a fine survey of Cannes and the
coast. On the island of St. Honorat rise the ruins of a fortified
monastery and church (boat there and back 10-12 fr.).
The Environs of Cannes are delightful, and studded with numerous
villas. On the Fréjus road (to the W.) is the Chdteau des Tours, the
property of the Duc de Vallombrosa, with a beautiful *Garden, to which
visitors are admitted. Another walk may be made towards the E. to the
Cap de la Croisette, where the Jardin des Hespérides, with its fine orange
plantations, is situated. An excursion to the Chapel of St. Antoine on
the road to Vallauris, which commands an admirable view, is somewhat
more fatiguing. Visits may also be paid to Mougins, the monastery of
St. Cassien, and the ruin of Napoule. The active pedestrian should walk
to the rocky nest of Auwribeaw, and thence to Mouans, on the railway
from Cannes to Grasse, or to Grasse itself. From Grasse an easy trip
may be made to Le Bar, near which is the interesting Gorge de Courmes.
The vegetation is luxuriant, but lemon-trees are not common here.
Orange-trees are principally cultivated for the sake of the blossoms,
which form an important article of commerce.
Beyond Cannes the line passes Golfe Jouan; a column marks
the spot where Napoleon bivouacked on the night after his arrival
from Elba, 4st March, 1845.
128 M. Antibes (Hétel de France), the ancient Antipolis, a
colony of the Massilians, is now a small, but busy seaport (6000
inhab.), beautifully situated on a promontory, and commanding a
charming view of the sea, the Bay of Nice, and the Alpes Mar-
itimes. A pier constructed by Vauban connects it with several
islands in the vicinity. The Cap d’Antibes (Hotel), 21/4 M. from
the town, should be visited for the sake of the beautiful view
which it affords. — This portion of the line traverses a remark-
ably rich and attractive district. It soon crosses the Var (Varus;
station), an impetuous mountain-torrent, which in modern, as
well as ancient times formed the boundary between France and
Italy, until in 1860 Nice was ceded to France, and the frontier
removed farther to the E.
140 M. Nice, see p. 110. From Nice to Genoa, see R. 16.
2. From Paris (Geneva) to Turin by Mont Cenis.
496 M. Rartway in 22-30!/2 hrs, (fares 100fr. 20, 74 fr. 65, 5ifr. 25c.).
From Paris to Mdcon (274 M.), see R. 1. The railway here
quits the Lyons line and turns to the left, crosses the Saéne, and,
at stat. Pont-de-Veyle, the Veyle. In front and to the left a view
of the Jura is obtained. The next place of importance is —
2971/9 M. Bourg (Hotels de U Europe, du Midi, de France),
with14,000 inhab., the ancient capital of Bresse, situated on the left
bank of the Reyzousse, 3/, M. from the station. The church of Notre
Dame de Bourg, erected in the 15th-17th cent., in a variety
of styles, contains several pictures, sculptures, and fine wood-
carving. On the promenade Le Bastion is the *Monument of
Ree CREE Sree a ea
mre ae a
24 Route 2. CULOZ. From Paris
Bichat (d. 1802), who once studied at Bourg, by David d’Angers.
The house in which Lalande (d. at Paris in 1807) was born is
indicated by a tablet with inscription. — Bourg is the junction
of the line to Lyons, Mouchard, Besancon, and Milhausen, which
is the direct railway between Lyons and Strassburg (comp. p. 4).
The celebrated *Church of Brou, in the florid Gothic style, erected
in 1511-36 by Margaret of Austria, Regent of the Netherlands, is situated
11/2 M. from the town. It contains the sumptuous * Monuments of the
foundress, the Duke Philibert of Savoy her husband, and Margaret of
Bourbon, her mother-in-law. Her well-known motto ‘Fortune infortune
forte une’, may be seen in different parts of the church.
The line intersects the forest of Seillon. Near Stat. Pont d Ain
the Ain is crossed.
317 M. Ambérieu, a pleasant little town on the Albarine, sit-
uated at the base of the Jura Mts., is the junction for Lyons (p. 5).
The train now continues to ascend the valley of the Albarine.
To the left lie the ruined castles of Viewx-Mont-Ferrand and St.
Germain. Beyond St. Rambert de Joux the valley becomes wilder
and more imposing. The line quits the Albarine at stat. Tenay, and
enters a sequestered valley to the right, where Les Hépitaur is
situated. Near Rossillon are a few fragments of an ancient strong-
hold. Beyond a tunnel, 4/3 M. in length, the lakes of Pugiew are
observed on the right. Beyond two small stations the train next
reaches the valley of the Rhone near —
348 M. Culoz (774 ft.; Hétel Folliet; *Rail. Restaur.), at the
base of the Colombier (5032 ft.), the junction of the Geneva line.
From GENEVA TO CuLoz (4141/2 M.) railway in 13/4-21/3 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 10,
6fr., 4fr.45c.). The line follows the right bank of the Rhone, on the
slopes of the Jura Mts. Beyond (14 M.) Collonges, the Rhone flows through
a narrow rocky valley, confined between the Jura and Mont Vouache,
and commanded by the Fort de V'Ecluse, which rises far above on the
right. The line quits the defile by the long Tunnel du Crédo (21/3 M.),
crosses the grand Valserine Viaduct, and reaches (20!/2 M.) Bellegarde
(Poste), at the influx of the Valserine into the Rhone (French custom-
house examination). The latter here forms a species of rapid, known as
the Perte du Rhéne, where the water is occasionally lost to view. Sta-
tions Pyrimont, Seyssel, and Culoz.
The train crosses the Rhone, and at stat. Chatillon reaches the
Lac du Bourget (42 M. in length, 11/.M. in breadth), the E. bank
of which it follows. Several tunnels and fine views.
363 M. Aix-les-Bains (850 ft.; *Grand Hotel d’Aix; *Venat;
*Hotel de lV Europe; *Guilland et de la Poste, less expensive ; and
many others), the Aquae Allobrogum or Aquae Gratianae of the
Romans, is a celebrated watering-place with 4400 inhab. (8000
visitors to the baths annually), possessing sulphur-springs (113°
Fahr.), adapted for internal and external use. The large new
Etablissement Thermal, with baths and pump-room, deserves in-
spection. In the place in front of it rises a Roman triumphal arch
of the 3rd or 4th cent. ; the other scanty relics of the Roman period
(fragments of a temple and of baths) are almost all within the pre-
cincts of private property and not easily accessible, — Pleasant ex-
to Turin. MODANE. 2. Route. 25
cursion by steamboat to *Haute-Combe, a Cistercian Abbey on the
N.W. bank of the Lac du Bourget. The church contains a number
of handsome monuments erected to Princes of Savoy.
The line quits the lake and traverses the broad valley of the
Laisse; to the left the beautifully wooded slopes of the Mont d’ Azi
and the Dent de Nivolet (5025 ft. ).
370 M. Chambéry (883 ft.; Hétel de France; Hotel des Alpes ;
Hotel des Princes; Hotel dela Paix) is the capital of the Department
of Savoy, with 17,500 inhab., and an archiepiscopal see. On the
Promenade is the Monument of General de Boigne (d. 1830), adorned
with life-size figures of elephants, and in front of the Palais is a
statue of the jurist Antoine Favre (d. at Chambéry in 1624), The
old palace of the Dukes of Savoy, erected in 1232, has been restored
and enlarged, and now contains the Préfecture; a square tower and
remnants of the facade of the original building still exist.
The line traverses a picturesque district, passing the ruined
castles of Batie and Chignin. — 377 M. Chignin-les-Marches is the
junction for the branch-line to Grenoble , which enters the valley
of the Isére (or Valley of Graisivaudan) to the right. From Grenoble
to Marseilles by railway in 12 hrs.
380 M. Montmélian. The ancient castle , of which scanty frag-
ments now alone exist, was long the bulwark of Savoy against
France. The train crosses the Isére. — 385M. St. Pierre d’Al-
bigny; the town lies opposite on the right bank, commanded by
the ruins of the chateau of Miolans. Near (388 M.) Chamousset
the line turns to the right, and traverses the valley of the Are
(Vallée de Maurienne), which here joins the Isére. Beyond (393 M.)
Aiguebelle, which is grandly situated, the Arc is crossed (in the
vicinity, on the left bank, the extensive iron mines of St. George
des Hurtiéres). Between stations Epierre and La Chambre the train
passes through a tunnel.
413M. St. Jean de Maurienne. — 421 M. St. Michel (2330 ft.).
The train crosses the Arc several times. Numerous tunnels (nine
between St. Michel and Modane). — 427 M. La Praz (3137 ft.).
431 M, Modane (3468 ft.; Hotel International; Rail. Restau-
rant, déj. with wine 41/9 fr.) is the seat of the French and Italian
custom-house authorities (change carriages).
The train (best view on the right) describes a wide curve round
the village, and passing through two short tunnels, enters, beyond
the small village of Fourneaux, the great *Mont Cenis Tunnel, by
which the Col de Fréjus (8338 ft.) is penetrated in a S.E. di-
rection.
The tunnel (73/; M. in length; N. entrance 3802 ft., S. entrance 4163 ft.
above the sea-level; height in the centre 4245 ft., depth below the sur-
face of the mountain 4093 ft.) was begun in Jan. 1861 and completed in
Dec. 1870, under the superintendence of the engineers Sommeiller, Grandis,
and Grattoni. Its total cost was 75,000,000fr. The ingenious boring-
machines, constructed for the purpose, were worked by compressed air.
From 1500 to 2000 workmen were constantly employed on each side.
26 Route 2. SUSA.
The tunnel is 26 ft. wide, 19 ft. high, and almost entirely lined with
masonry. ~It is lighted by lanterns placed at intervals of 500 métres, and
the distances are given in kilometres. The carriages are lighted with
gas. The air in the tunnel, although somewhat close, is not unpleasant.
The transit occupies 30 minutes. Travellers are warned not to protrude
their heads or arms from the carriage-windows during the transit, and
are also recommended to keep the windows shut.
The now deserted Mont Cents Roap, which continues to ascend the
valley of the Arc, was constructed by Fabbroni in 1802-5, during the
reign of Napoleon I. The culminating point of the Mont Cenis (6950 ft.)
lies 17 M. to the E. of the tunnel, which was therefore hardly appro-
priately called after the mountain. The road then descends to Susa (see
below), about 40 M. from Modane.
At the S. end of the tunnel is (443 M.) stat. Bardonecchia
(4127 ft.). Two tunnels. Stat. Beaulard. Near stat. Oulx (3497 ft. ),
the Roman Villa Martis, the line enters the valley of the Dora
Riparia. (A road to the S.W. leads hence to Cesanne at the con-
fluence of the Dora and Ripa, and over the Mont Genévre to the
French fortress of Briangon on the Durance; comp. p. 73.)
The train traverses the picturesque valley of the Dora. Be-
yond a bridge and two tunnels, we reach stat. Salbertrand (3302 ft.).
The river is again crossed. Before the next station (Chiomonte),
nine tunnels are traversed. To the left, between the second and
third, a glimpse is obtained of the small town of Exilles with the
frontier fortress of that name; farther on, a fine waterfall. — 453M.
Chiomonte, or Chaumont (2526 ft.). Then a number of tunnels
and aqueducts. The valley contracts and forms a wild gorge (Le
Gorgie) , of which beautiful views are obtained, with the Mont Ce-
nis road winding up the hill on the farther side , and the Roche-
melon, Roche-Michel, etc., towering above it. When the valley ex-
pands, Susa with the arch of Augustus comes in sight on the left
(see below). — 4561/, M. Meana (1949 ft.), 1 M. from Susa , lies
324 ft. higher than the latter. Three tunnels. The train then
descends through beautiful chestnut woods, and crosses the Dora.
462M. Bussoleno.
A short branch-line (5 M. in 1/2 hr.; fares, 95, 65, 50¢.) runs hence
to Susa (1625 ft.; Hédtel de France; Soleil), a small and ancient town,
the Roman Segusio, situated on the right bank of the Dora. A garden
on the W. side of the town contains a Triumphal Arch, 44 ft. in height,
39 ft. in width, and 23 ft. in depth, with projecting Corinthian columns
at the corners and sacrificial scenes on the frieze, erected according to the
inscription in A.D. 8. There are also a few other Roman relics. The
church of S. Giusto dates from the 411th century. On the opposite bank
of the Dora rises the fort La Brunette, which was destroyed by the
French in 1798.
Next stations Borgone (where the Dora is crossed), S. Anto-
nino, Condove, and §. Ambrogio, high above which, on a rocky
eminence to the right, rises the abbey of S. Michele della Chiusa, or
La Sagra, remarkable for a peculiar property of its tombs which
convert dead bodies into natural mummies. At stat. Avigliana the
valley expands into a broad plain. Stations Rosta, Alpignano,
Collegno.
496 M. Turin, see p. 60.
27
3. From Martigny to Arona on the Lago Maggiore
over the Simplon.
123!/. M. Raritway from Martigny to (48 M.) Brieg in3 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 85,
7 fr. 90, 6 fr. 30c.). Ditigence from Brieg over the Simplon to Domo
a@’Ossola (40 M.) twice daily in summer in 9-93/, hrs. (fare 16 fr. 85, coupé
20 fr. 30 c.); from Domo d’Ossola to Stresa twice daily in 4 hrs. (6 fr. 30,
coupé 10 fr. 50 ¢.), and to Arona (35!/2 M.) once daily in 6 hrs. (fare 8 fr. 85,
coupé 14fr. 75c.).— Extra-Posr with two horses from Brieg to Arona 169 fr.
20 c¢., with three horses 239 fr. 50c. Private CarriaceEs: to Domo @Ossola,
with one horse, for 2 pers., 55 fr.; two-horse carr. with 4 seats, 100 fr.;
three-horse carr. with 4-6 places 130fr.; to the Lago Maggiore (Baveno,
Stresa, Pallanza) 85, 150, and 200fr. respectively (return-carriages cheaper).
The night is usually spent at Domo dOssola. — SrEamMBoaT from Stresa
or Baveno to Arona, see R. 26.
Martigny (1558 ft.; *Hotel Clerc; Hotel de la Tour ; *Hétel du
Mont Blanc, moderate), is a busy little town in summer, being the
starting-point of the Great St. Bernard and Chamonix routes.
The Ratiway runs in a straight direction past the Baths of
Saxon to Riddes, where the Rhone is crossed.
151/o M. Sion, Ger. Sitten (1709 ft.; *Poste; du Midi), with
4900 inhab., the capital of the Canton du Valais, has an important
appearance in the distance with the picturesque castles of Tour-
billon, Majoria, and Valeria towering above it.
251/. M. Sierre, Ger. Siders (1765 ft.; Hétel Bellevue ; Poste),
picturesquely situated on a hill. — Beyond Sierre a tunnel is
passed.
27 M. Salgesch, French Salquenen. The rocks have been
blasted in several places for the construction of the railway. The
train passes through two short tunnels, and crosses the Rhone.
301/o M. Leuwk-Susten, Fr. Louéche-Souste (2044 ft.; Hotel de
la Souste), station for the Baths of Leuk. The important-looking
old village of Leuk, with its castle and towers, lies high on the
opposite slope. — 331/. M. Turtman, Fr. Tourtemagne (2080 ft.),
at the mouth of the Turtman Valley. — 35 M. Gampel. — 381/. M.
Raron, Fr. Rarogne, at the mouth of the Bietschthal. — The line
crosses the Visp, which has covered a great part of the valley with
debris.
42M. Vispach or Visp, Fr. Viege (2155 ft.; *Post; *Sonne ;
*Railway Restaurant), picturesquely situated at the entrance to
the Visp Valley, at the head of which rises the snow-clad Balfrin
(12,474 ft.). Beyond Vispach the line again approaches the Rhone.
A8 M. Brieg, Fr. Brigue (2244 ft.; *Hdtel des Couronnes et
Poste, R. 21/9, D. 41/, fr.; *Angleterre, D.4fr.), a well-built little
town, with a chateau with four towers. The railway terminates here.
The Srmpton Rovurs, properly so called, which begins here,
was constructed by order of Napoleon in 1800-1806, and was the
first carriage-road across the Alps from Switzerland to Italy, and,
after the Brenner, the first great route across the Alps. In con-
struction it is less imposing than the Spliigen, but its scenery is
28 Route 3. SIMPLON. From Martigny
much finer. The road quits the valley of the Rhone at Brieg, and
ascends in numerous windings.
9M. Bérisal (5006 ft.), the Third Refuge (*Hétel de la Poste,
R. 21/9 fr.), Above the Fourth Refuge (5645 ft.) a retrospect is
obtained in clear weather of the Bernese Alps (to the N.), from
which the huge Aletsch Glacier descends. The part of the road
between the Fifth Refuge (6358 ft.) and the culminating point
is the most dangerous during the period of avalanches and storms.
The road passes through the Kaltwasser Glacier Gallery (6460 ft.),
over which the stream issuing from the glacier is precipitated into
the depths below, forming a waterfall which is visible through a
side opening. The road then passes through two other galleries.
From the Sixth Refuge (6540 ft.) a splendid final view is enjoyed
of the Bernese Alps; far below in the Rhone Valley lies Brieg.
The Simplon Pass (6595 ft.) is 6 M. from Bérisal. About
3/4 M. beyond the summit is the Hospice (no payment demanded
for hospitality , but travellers should contribute at least as much
to the poor-box as they would have paid at an hotel), a spacious
building founded by Napoleon, but not completed till 1825. A
broad, open valley, bounded by snow-capped heights and glaciers,
forms the highest portion of the Pass. The imposing Raut Glacier
is a conspicuous object on the mountains to the S.; to the E. rises
the Monte Leone (11,696 ft.). The Old Hospice, a lofty square tower
now tenanted by herdsmen, lies on the right far below the road.
201/o M. Simplon, Ger. Simpein, Ital. Sempione (4856 ft. ; *Poste,
R. 2, D. 31/9 fr. ; *Hétel Fletschhorn). The road now describes a long
curve to the S., which pedestrians may cut off by a rough path regain-
ing the road at the Algaby Gallery, where the most interesting part
of the Simplon route begins. It leads through the *Ravine of Gondo,
one of the wildest and grandest in the Alps, becoming narrower
and more profound at every step, until its smooth and precipitous
walls of mica-slate completely overhang the road, below which
rushes the impetuous Doveria. The most remarkable of the cut-
tings by which the road penetrates the rocks is the Gallery of
Gondo, a tunnel 245 yds. in length, constructed by Napoleon in
1805 and fortified by the Swiss in 1830. At the end of the tunnel
the Fressinone (or Alpienbach) forms a fine waterfall, which is cross-
ed by a slender bridge. On both sides the rocks tower to a dizzy
height of 2000 ft. The dark entrance of the tunnel forms a striking
contrast to the white foam of the falling torrent. This magnificent
*Alpine Scene, especially when viewed at a distance of 40-50 paces,
surpasses the Via Mala (p. 37). Gondo (2818 ft.) is the last Swiss
village ; 1/.M. beyond it is the Italian boundary-column. S. Marco,
1/4 M. farther, is the first Italian village.
29 M. Iselle (2175 ft.; Posta) is the seat of the Italian
custom-house. The valley, although now less wild, continues to be
extremely picturesque. It unites with the broad and fertile valley
————
to Arona. BAVENO. 3. Route. 29
of the Tosa (Val Antigorio) at the bridge of Crevola, 100 ft. in
height, below which it is called the Val d’Ossola. The characte-
ristics of the scenery are thoroughly Italian.
40 M. Domo d’Ossola (1000 ft.; Hotel de la Ville et Poste, R. 3,
D. 5fr.; Hotel d’ Espagne ; carriages, see p. 27), a small town with
3300 inhab., beautifully situated. Near (4 M.) Villa, the Antrona
Valley opens on the right; then (11/, M.) Pailanzeno, and (2 M.)
Masone, opposite which opens the Anzasca Valley, with the mag-
nificent *Monte Rosa group at its head. The Tosa is crossed.
48 M. Vogogna (*Corona, unpretending), a small town, at
the base of precipitous rocks. The next villages are (11/2 M.) Pre-
mosello (2 M.), Cuzszago, and (1 M.) Migiandone, where the Tosa
is crossed by a five-arched stone bridge.
56 M. Ornavasso (Italia; Croce Bianca). The marble-quarries
in the vicinity belong to the chapter of the cathedral of Milan.
To the 8. a road leads through the valley of the Strona, which
falls into the Tosa near Gravellona, to Orta (p. 174). — Near Feriolo,
the next village, situated in a most luxuriant district, covered with
olive-groves , maize-fields , vineyards, chestnuts, and fig-trees, the
road passes an extensive granite quarry, where the columns of the
restored Basilica S. Paolo Fuori le Mura near Rome were hewn, and
soon reaches the 8. W. bank of Lago Maggiore (R. 26), from which in
the distance rises the Isola Madre, the most N. of the Borromean
Islands.
62M. Baveno (*Bellevue ; *Beau-Rivage ; Hétel-Pension Suisse)
is a steamboat-station. Travellers from the Simplon usually visit the
Borromean Islands from this point (comp. p. 171). The road, most
of which rests on buttresses of granite and solid masonry, skirts the
lake and leads by Stresa (p. 172), Belgirate, Lesa, and Meina, to —
7531/5 M. Arona, see p. 167. Railway to Milan, see p. 167
Genoa, see p. 79; to Turin by Novara, see p. 79 and R. 11.
4. From Lucerne to Lugano. The St. Gotthard
Railway.
128 M. Rattway in 63/,-9 hrs. (fares 29fr. 30, 20fr. 50, 14 fr. 65c.;
through fares to Milan, 176 M., 36fr. 65, 25fr. 65, 18fr. 5c., sleeping
compartment 11 fr. 80c. extra). — A table-d’héte dinner is provided at
GOschenen for passengers by the day-express; those intending to partake
of it inform the guard.
The **St. Gotthard Railway, one of the most stupendous engineering
enterprises of modern times, was formally inaugurated on May 22nd, 1882,
and opened for general traffic on June 1st. The works were begun in
June 1872, in conformity with a treaty concluded between Italy and
Switzerland in 1869, to which Germany also became a party in 1871. In
accordance with this agreement those three states bound themselves to
grant the St. Gotthard Railway Company a subsidy of 85 million francs
(3,400,0001.), of which Italy contributed 45 million francs, Germany and
Switzerland 20 millions each. This subvention was afterwards increased
by 28 million francs, and the total capital invested in the line amounted to
238 million franes (9,500,0007.). At first the chief engineer of the railway
4 |
30 Route 4. LUCERNE. From Lucerne
was M. Gerwig, who was succeeded by J. Hellwag in 1875. The con-
struction-of the great tunnel was entrusted to M. Favre of Geneva (comp.
p. 33). — The highest point of the railway is in the middle of the great
tunnel and is 3785ft. above the level of the sea. The maximum gradient
is 1:40, the shortest curve-radius 330 yds. The inclines have generally been
surmounted by large spiral tunnels, of which there are three on the N.
side of the St. Gotthard and four on the S. In all the railway has 56 tun-
nels (with an aggregate length of 25 M.), 32 bridges, several of which are
of great size, and 10 viaducts. The St. Gotthard Railway shortens the
journey between London and Brindisi (Anglo-Indian mail route) by 120 M.
— The *Steamboat Voyage on the Lake of Lucerne from Lucerne to Fliielen
is much pleasanter than the railway journey, and is recommended to those
who are not pressed for time. Comp. Baedeker’s Switzerland.
Lucerne. — *ScHWEIZERHOF; *LUZERNER Hor; *H6TEL NATIONAL;
*BEAURIVAGE; *ANGLETERRE; *CyGNE; *HOTEL pu Rrer, all near the
steamboat-pier. *HOTEL pu Lac, and *St. GotrHarD, both near the station.
*BALANCES, on the Reuss. — ENGEL, ADLER, ROssLI, Poste, Mour, all
unpretending.
Lucerne, the capital of the canton of that name, with 17,800
inhab., is situated at the efflux of the Reuss from the Lake of
Lucerne. The view from the Schweizerhof-Quai is strikingly
beautiful. The celebrated *Lion of Lucerne, designed by Thor-
valdsen, tothe N., outside the Waggis Gate and 1/, M. from the
Schweizerhof, and the new Museum in the town-hall are the
principal attractions in the town. The so-called ‘Glacier Garden’,
near the Waggis Gate, is also interesting. Walks and excursions,
see Baedeker’s Switzerland.
Soon after leaving the station the train passes through a small
tunnel, beyond which the lines to Bern and Basel diverge on the
left. It then crosses the Reuss by a bridge 175 yards long, passes
through another tunnel and a cutting, and skirts the Roth-Sec
(11/5 M. long) on the right. Between (5 M.) Ebikon and (9 M.)
Gisikon we obtain a view of the Rigi to the right.
“11 M. Rothkreuz (Rail. Restaurant), the junction of the lines
to Aarau and Ziirich. Our train runs hence to the E., and at
(16 M.) Immensee- Kiissnacht reaches the picturesque Lake of Zug
(9 M. long, 21/2 M. broad); opposite rises the Rossberg, with the
village of Walchwyl at its foot. The railway skirts the N. slope of
the Rigi at a considerable height above the lake, passes Arth on the
left, and penetrates the Rindelfluh Tunnel, beyond which lies
(21 M.) Arth-Goldau (Rail. Restaur.), situated in the midst of
debris and fragments of rock, the results of the disastrous land-
slip of 1806. Arth-Goldau is also a station on the Arth and Rigi-
Kulm line. Farther on, to the left, are the farms of Steinenberg
on the mountain-side, while to the right lies the Lake of Lowerz,
with the island of Sechwanau. 24M. Steinen, in arich fruit-district.
26M. Seewen, the station for Schwyz (Réssli; Hétel Hediger), the
capital of the canton, with 6600 inhab., which lies 1 M. inland, at
the base of the double-peaked Little Mythe (5955 ft.) and of the
Great Mythe (6240 ft. ).
The train now turns to the §S., passing the Fronalpstock
)
to Lugano. FLUELEN. 4. Route. 31
(6295 ft.) on the left, crosses the Muotta near Ingenbohl, and
reaches —
28'/5 M. Brunnen (* Waldstitter Hof, on the lake; *Adler;
Roéssli; Hirsch), the most beautifully situated place on the Lake of
Lucerne. The railway-station is at the back of the village, some-
what distant from the lake.
The railway is now carried by a tunnel 135 yds. in length below
the Gutsch and the Axenstrasse, which leads along the E. bank of
the lake from Gersau to Fliielen. It then reaches the *Urner See, or
K. arm of the Lake of Lucerne, along the bank of which it runs
through a succession of tunnels and cuttings. On the right opens
a noble view of the lake, on the opposite bank of which, at the
base of the Seelisberg, are the Mythenstein and the meadow of
Riitli, where, as the story goes, the first Swiss league (between
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden) was concluded on the night of
‘th Noy., 1307. Farther on rises the double-peaked Uri-Roth-
stock (9650 ft.), with its glacier. The train now threads the Hoch-
fluh Tunnel (638 yds.), the St. Franciscus Tunnel (2127 yds.), and
the Oelberg Tunnel (11/4M.), the last of which is the second longest
on the line. Beyond (32 .M.) Sisikon, at the mouth of the narrow
Riemenstalden- Thal, the line crosses the Axenstrasse, and passes
through the tunnels of Stutzeck (1075 yds.) and Tell’s Platte (185
yds.). (The Chapel of Tell, which stands on Tell’s Platte, where
Tell is said to have sprung out of Gessler’s boat when overtaken
by a storm, is not visible from the train.) The Axenberg (1220 yds.)
and the Sulzeck (175 yds.) tunnels are then traversed.
36M. Fliielen, Ital. Fiora (1435 ft.; Urnerhof; Flielerhof ;
“Kreuz; Tell; St, Gotthard; etc.), the port of the canton of Uri.
Behind the church is the small castle of Rudenz, formerly the pro-
perty of the Attinghausen family. — The train now ascends the
broad and level valley of the Reuss, the background of which is
formed by the pyramidal Bristenstock (10,090 ft.). On the right
rise the abrupt rocky walls of the Gitschen (8330 ft.) and the Bockli
(6810 ft.). — 38 M. Altdorf (Adler or Post ; Schliissel), the capital
(3900 inhab.) of the canton of Uri, is the place where Tell is said
to have aimed his arrow at the apple on his son’s head. Above
Altdorf, pleasantly situated at the entrance to the Schachen-Thal,
lies Birglen, the traditional birth-place and residence of Tell. The
line crosses the Schdchenbach, a little above its junction with the
Reuss, approaches the foot of the mountains, and begins to ascend.
Beyond the Reuss is the hamlet of Attinghausen, with a ruined
castle, in which Baron Werner of Attinghausen, who appears in
Schiller’s ‘Wilhelm Tell’, is said to have died in 1307, — 43 M.
Erstfeld, at the entrance to the Erstfelder Thal. The railway and
the road here run close beside the river.
45 M. Amsteg (1795 ft.; Stern or Post), a small village with
substantial-looking houses, occupies a picturesque site at the
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32 Route 4. WASEN. From Lucerne
mouth of the Maderaner Thal. The station lies 3/4 M. from the
village, halfway between Amsteg and Silenen, a hamlet with a
ruined castle, hidden among orchards.
The most interesting part of the railway begins here. Immedi-
ately beyond Amsteg the train penetrates a rocky spur of the
Windgelle, by means of a tunnel 187 yds. long, and crosses the
Kdrstelenbach, a tributary of the Reuss flowing out of the profound
and narrow Maderaner Thal, of which, as well as of the Great
Windgelle (10,465 ft.) to the left, an excellent view is obtained
from the bridge (150 yds. long, and 175 ft. high). We now pierce
the slope of the Bristenstock by means of the two Bristenlaut Tun-
nels (435 yds. and 232 yds. long respectively), and cross the
foaming Reuss by a lofty lattice-girder bridge (82 yds. long; 255 ft.
above the river). The railway then runs along the left side of the
picturesque Reuss valley, sharing the narrow space with the road,
until the latter again crosses to the right bank. After passing
through four short tunnels (Intschi, Zgraggen, Breiten and Meitsch-
linger) we now reach —
50 M. Gurtnellen (2525 ft.). Beyond Gurtnellen the train
ascends the hill of Géschenen (see below) by means of three curved
tunnels and an immense double bend. It crosses the Gorneren-
Bach and the Hagrigen- Bach (fine waterfall on the right) and
enters the spiral Pfaffensprung Tunnel (1606 yds.), near the
Pfaffensprung bridge, by which the road re-crosses to the left bank
of the Reuss. On emerging from the upper end of the tunnel,
which is about 115 ft. above the lower, the train proceeds through
the short Miihle-Tunnel, again crosses the Hegrigen-Bach, with a
view of the Pfaffensprung bridge below us to the left, and threads the
Miihren- Tunnel (93 yds. ; 2820 ft. above the sea-level). Immedi-
ately afterwards we cross the deep gorge of the Maienreuss, which
descends from the Maien-Thal, penetrate the hill of Wasen by the
Kirchberg Tunnel (330 yds.), and after passing to the right bank of
the Reuss, enter the spiral tunnel of Wattingen (1199 yds. long;
79 ft. of ascent). A part of this tunnel fell in during its con-
struction, and on account of the peculiarly fissured nature of the
rock, it required to be carefully lined with substantial masonry.
Beyond the tunnel, the train again crosses the Reuss, penetrates
the Rohrbach Tunnel (240 yds.), and reaches the station of —
55 M. Wasen (2780 ft.), above the village of that name (Hotel
des Alpes; Ochs), the church of which, through the frequent wind-
ings of the line, appears in constantly altering positions. The train
now runs towards to the N., crossing the Maienreuss again by the
imposing *Middle Maienreuss Bridge (71 yds. long, 260 ft. high),
and traversing the short Strahlloch Tunnel and the spiral Leggi-
stein Tunnel (1200 yds. long, 82 ft. of ascent), the latter of which
is the finest and most evenly graded tunnel on the entire line. On
emerging from the tunnel the line runs to the S., crosses the
to Lugano. AIROLO. 4. Route. 39d
Maienreuss for the third time, by the Upper Maienreuss Bridge
(60 yds. long, 148 ft. high), with a fine view of the gorge below,
and passes through the short Maienkreuz Tunnel (84 yds. ; 3250 ft.
above the sea).
The train now runs for some distance along the mountain-side,
commanding a view of the part of the line just traversed, which
lies far below us. Opposite rises the Rienzer Stock (9785 ft.).
We then cross the Rohrbach by an iron bridge (44 yds. long, 92 ft.
high), penetrate the Naxberg Tunnel(1M. long; entrance 3380 ft.,
exit 3480 ft. above the sea-level), and span the deep valley of the
Goschenen-Reuss (bridge 71 yds. long, 160 ft. high) near the village
of Goschenen, which is situated at the mouth of the Goschenen-
Thal. In the back-ground rises the stately Dammafirn.
60 M. Géschenen, Ital. Cascinotta (3490 ft.; *Rail. Restaur.,
comp. p. 29). Immediately beyond the station the train crosses
the Gotthard Reuss and enters the great *St. Gotthard Tunnel,
which runs nearly due 8., 5-6000 ft. below the highest point of
the mountain.
The tunnel is 16,310 yds. or about 9!/, M. in length, thus exceeding the
Mont Cenis Tunnel (p. 25) by about 11/2 M. The highest point (8785 ft.)
is almost exactly in the middle, whence it falls away on both sides. The
works were begun at Géschenen on June 4th, 1872, and at Airolo on July
2nd; the headings met on February 29th, 1880. The contractor, M. Louis
Favre, died in the tunnel] of apoplexy on July 19th, 1879. The boring
was accomplished by boring-machines, driven by compressed air, on the
improved Ferroux system. The greatest number of workmen employed
at one time was 3400. The tunnel is 26 ft. 3 in. wide and 19 ft. 8 in.
high. It is laid with a double line of rails, and is lined with masonry
throughout. The construction cost nearly 57 million francs (2,375,000.).
— The passage takes 25 minutes. The temperature in the interior, in
spite of the ventilating apparatus, is high (75-800 Fahr.). It is lighted by
lamps, placed at intervals of 1100 yds.
At the 8. end of the tunnel lies —
70 M. Airolo (3868 ft.; *Posta; *Hétel Airolo), in the upper
Ticino Valley (Valle Leventina), in great part rebuilt after a fire in
1877. The scenery here still retains quite an Alpine character, but
as we proceed the influence of the Italian climate soon makes
itself evident.
3eyond Airolo the train crosses the Ticino, by a bridge 55D yds.
long, threads the Stalvédro Tunnel (207 yds. long, 3690 ft. above
the sea-level), and enters the *Stretto di Stalvedro, a defile which
in 1799 was defended for 12 hours by 600 Frenchmen against 3000
Russian grenadiers. The road runs on the left bank of the Ticino.
The valley expands near (73 M.) Ambri-Piotta. To the right rises
the Pis Massari (9060 ft.), and to the left lies Quinto. In the
background are a number of villages on the mountain-terraces.
The valley again contracts. Beyond (77 M.) Rodi-Fiesso (3110 ft. )
the Platifer (Monte Piottino) projects into the valley on the N.
The Ticino has worn a course for itself through the mountain, and
descends the gloomy gorge in a series of waterfalls. The rail-
BAEDEKER. Italy I. 6th Edit. 3
Sa
34 Route 4. FAIDO. From Lucerne
way effects amore gradual descent by means of two circular or loop-
tunnels. At Dazio Grande the train crosses the Ticino by a bridge
(49 yds. long) commanding afine view down the valley, and beyond
the Dazio Tunnel (382 yds.) and the Arloito Tunnel (78 yds.), it
enters the spiral Freggio Tunnel (1 M. in length; 105 ft. of
descent), whence it emerges in the midst of the defile of Prato.
The scenery here is very imposing. The train again crosses the
Ticino, passes through the Monte Piottino Tunnel (150 yds.) and
the Pardorea Tunnel (305 yds.), and enters the spiral Prato
Tunnel (1 M. long; 112 ft. of descent). Beyond the short Buscie-
rina Tunnel (60 yds.) we obtain a view of the beautiful valley of
Faido, with its luxuriant southern vegetation. The train again
passes to the left bank of the Ticino by the Polmengo Bridge
(71 yds.) and penetrates the Polmengo Tunnel (300 yds. ).
82 M. Faido (2365 ft.; Angelo; Prince of Wales; Hotel Vella),
the capital of the Leventina, is a village of thoroughly Italian
character. To the right of the railway is the picturesque water-
fall of the Piumogna. — The train now follows the left bank of
the Ticino, where the traveller's enjoyment of the fine scenery
through which he passes is much interfered with by the numerous
tunnels. To the right lies Chiggiogna, with an old church. Near
(86 M.) Lavorgo the Cribiasca forms a fine waterfall on the right.
Farther on the Ticino descends through the picturesque gorge of
Biaschina to a lower part of the valley, the train making the de-
scent by means of two contiguous spiral tunnels on the left bank.
There now follow in quick succession the La Lume Tunnel (482yds. ),
the Pianotondo Viaduct (113 yds.), the spiral Pianotondo Tunnel
(nearly 1 M. long; 130 ft. of descent), the Tourniquet Tunnel
(74 yds.), the Travi Viaduct (67 yds.), and the spiral Travi
Tunnel (nearly 1 M. long; 118 ft. of descent). The train has now
reached the lower zone of the Valle Leventina, and recrosses the
Ticino by a bridge 55 yds. in length.
90 M. Giornico. About 11/4, M. from the station lies the pictur-
esquely situated village of that name (1300 ft. ; Cervo; Corona),
with an ancient Lombard tower, and traces of fortifications near
the church of Sta. Maria di Castello. The old church of 8S. Niccolo
da Mira, in the earliest Romanesque style, is said to stand on the
site of a heathen temple.
Beyond Giornico the line recrosses the Ticino by a bridge
98 yds. long, and skirts the left bank. To the right is the fine
waterfall of the Cramosina. 94M. Bodio(1085 ft.; Posta). Beyond
Polleggio the Brenno descends from the Val Blegno (p. 40) and
falls into the Ticino. Two bridges carry the line across the two
branches of this river to —
97 M. Biasea (Hotel de la Gare; Grand Hotel Biasea, Unione,
in the village; Railway Restaurant). The station lies 1 M. to the
S. of the village, which contains an old Romanesque church, situ-
to Lugano. BELLINZONA. 4. Route. 35
ated upon a hill. From the station aseries of oratories ascends to the
Petronilla Chapel, near which is the *Froda or St. Petronilla Fall.
— From Biasca over the Lukmanier to Coire, see p. 40.
The railway now traverses the very hot and dusty valley of the
Ticino close to the base of the richly cultivated E. slopes of the
mountains. — 101 M. Osogna (965 ft.), at the foot of an abrupt
and rocky height. Near Cresciano, on the left, are several pictur-
esque waterfalls. — 105 M. Claro(1017 ft.), at the foot of the Pizzo
di Claro (8760 ft.), with the monastery of S. Maria on the hill-side.
— 107M. Castione; on the left, farther on, opens the Val Mesocco
(Bernardino route, p. 41), whence descends the Moésa, which is
crossed by the railway. To the left lies Arbedo (p. 41). The train
then passes through a tunnel (77 yds. long), beyond which we obtain
a magnificent view of Bellinzona.
109 M. Bellinzona (777 ft.; *Poste et Pension Suisse; Hotel de
la Ville; * Angelo ; Railway Restaurant), the capital of the canton
of Ticino, with 2500 inhab., presents a strikingly picturesque ap-
pearance when viewed from a distance, but the charm is dispelled
when the town is entered.
The three picturesque CastLES were once the residence of the bailiffs
of the three ancient confederate cantons. The largest, the Castello Grande,
on an isolated hill to the W., belonged to Uri; of the other two, towards
the E., the lower, Ji Castello di Mezzo, belonged to Schwyz, and the
Castello Corbario or Corbé (1502 ft.), the upper, now a ruin, to Unter-
walden. The Castello Grande is now used as an arsenal and prison;
visitors are admitted to the court and gardens to see the beautiful view
(fee to the guide). Another admirable point is the loftily situated pil-
grimage-chapel of S. Maria della Salute.
From Bellinzona to Locarno, see p. 36. From Bellinzona across the
Bernardino to Coie, see p. At.
The lower valley of thé Ticino forms a wide plain, enclosed by
lofty mountains, the lower slopes of which are covered with vines,
the higher with walnut and chestnut trees. The train passes through
a tunnel (300 yds.) below the Castello di Mezzo (see above).
At (111 M.) Giubiasco the railway to Locarno (see p. 36) di-
verges to the right. Our line describes a wide circuit towards the
left, approaches the foot of the mountains near Camorino, and ascends
the slopes of Monte Ceneri. To the right, below us, we see 8S. An-
tonio, and farther on Cadenazzo (p.36). The train passes through
the tunnels of Costa (72 yds.), Precassino (440 yds.), and Meggiagra
(97 yds.). As we ascend we obtain a succession of *Views of Bellin-
zona and the Ticino Valley, the influx of the Ticino into the Lago
Maggiore, and the N. end of that lake. The train then penetrates
the Monte Ceneri by means of a curved tunnel (1 M. long; ascent
120 ft.), about 380 ft. below the summit of the pass. At the S.
end of the tunnel, in the sequestered valley of the Leguana, lies
1181/. M. Rivera-Bironico. The train then skirts the Leguana,
which soon unites with the Vedeggio, a stream descending from
Mte. Camoghé (7303 ft.). The river is now called the Agno, through
the pleasant valley of which the train descends. Beyond the Molin-
3%
36 Route 5. COIRE. From Coire
cero Tunnel (70 yds.) we reach (124 M.) Taverne (1130 ft.), the
station for the two villages of Taverne Superiori and Taverne In-
feriori. At Lamone (1030 ft.) the train quits the valley of the
Agno, and ascends, passing Cadempino and Veszia, to the Massagno
Tunnel (1135 ft.; 1020 yds. long).
128 M. Lugano, see p. 161; the station lies high above the
town.
From Lugano to Como and Milan, see pp. 161-160 and 148-146.
From BELLINZONA TO LOCARNO.,
14 M. Raitway in 3/s hr. (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 ¢c.; through-
fares from Lucerne to Locarno 26 fr. 80, 18 fr. 75, 13 fr. 40 ¢.).
From Bellinzona to (21/, M.) Giubiasco, see p. 35. — 51/g M.
Cadenazzo (Rail. Restaurant).
At Cadenazzo diverges the new railway from BELLINZONA TO LUINO
(25 M.). The stations on this line are: 10!/. M. Magadino (p. 168); 12!/2 M.
S. Nazzaro; 141/2 M. Ranzo- Gera; 17M. Pino (p. 169); 21 M. Maccagno
(p. 169); 25 M. Luino (p. 169). — A prolongation of this railway to Sesto-
Calende (p. 167) has been planned.
Below Cugnasco the train crosses the Ticino, and beyond (40 M. )
Gordola the Verzasca, which dashes forth from a gorge on the right.
It then skirts the Lago Maggiore.
14 M. Locarno, see p. 168.
5. From Coire to Colico over the Spligen.
75!/2 M. Dinicgencr from Coire to Colico twice daily in summer in
16!/, hrs. (coupé 32 fr., interior 26 fr.). Extra Post from Coire to Colico
with two horses 191 fr. 70 c., with three horses 266 fr. 50 c. Through-
tickets from Coire to Milan, Genoa, Florence, etc. PRIVATE CARRIAGE
with two horses 160 fr., with three horses 230 fr.
Coire, Ger. Chur, Ital. Coira (1936 ft. ; *Steinbock, outside the
town; Lukmanier, near the station; Weisses Kreuz; Stern; Rother
Lowe, near the post-office), situated on the Plessur, 11/g M. from its
confluence with the Rhine, with 8800 inhab., is the capital of the
Canton of the Grisons, and an episcopal residence.
Within the ‘Episcopal Court’, which is surrounded by walls and rises
above the town, are the *Cathedral of St. Lucius, the oldest part of which
is said to date from the 8th cent. (choir 1208, nave consecrated in 1282),
the medieval Episcopal Palace (a passage in the upper floor of which is
decorated with a Dance of Death ascribed to Holbein?), and a few Roman
remains. See Baedeker’s Switzerland.
The Diligence Road from Coire ascends the broad valley of
the Rhine. The scenery is uninteresting as far as Reichenau. On
the opposite bank of the river, at the base of the Calanda, lies the
village of Felsberg, which was partly destroyed by a landslip in
1850. The road passes through the thriving village of Ems, near
the ruins of the old castle of Hohenems, and crosses the Rhine by a
new iron bridge, before reaching —
6 M. Reichenau (1936 ft.; *Adler), a group of houses at the
confluence of the Vorder and Hinter-Rhein. The chateau of M.
to Colico. THUSIS. 5. Route. 37
de Planta afforded refuge in 1794 to Louis Philippe, then Duke of
Chartres. — A covered wooden bridge crosses the Vorder-Rhein, im-
mediately before its confluence with the Hinter-Rhein. Through the
valley of the Vorder-Rhein a post-road, not crossing this bridge, but
branching off to the right, onthe left bank ofthe Vorder-Rhein, leads
to Disentis, Andermatt, and Géschenen(p. 33). The road soon ascends
for a short distance, and passes the villages of Bonaduz and Rhdziins.
The Domleschg Valley, Romansch Domgiasea, which we follow as
far as Thusis, on the right (E.) bank of the Rhine (the W. side of
which is called Heinzenberg, or Montagna), is remarkable for its
fertility and its numerous castles. Some of the villages are quite Ro-
manic, others German; some are Roman Catholic, others Protestant.
Between the Bridge of Rothenbrunnen and Katzis are the castles
of Juvalta, Ortenstein, Paspels, Canova, Rietberg, and Fiirstenau
on the right, and that of Realta on the left bank. Towards Katsis
(2155 ft.) the scenery is particularly fine. To the S. rises the
snow-clad summit of the Piz Curver (9760 ft.); beyond this, to
the left, lies the Schyn Pass, with the majestic Piz St. Michél
(10,371 ft.) in the background; to the N. the Ringelspits (10,659 ft.)
and the Trinserhorn (9934 ft.). Near Thusis, above the village of
Masein, rises the castle of Tagstein.
16 M. Thusis, Romanic Tusaun (2448 ft.; *Via Mala; *Adler
or Post; *Hétel and Pension Rhaetia), lies at the confluence of the
Rhine and the Nolla, the turbid water of which tinges the Rhine
for a considerable distance. Fine view from the bridge over the
Nolla. In the background towers the Piz Beverin (9843 ft.).
Beyond Thusis the valley of the Rhine is apparently terminated
by lofty. mountains. The entrance of the ravine of the Rhine is
guarded on the right bank by the ruined castle of Hohen- Rhiitien,
or Hoch-Realt. Prior to 1822 the bridle-path from Thusis ascended
the valley of the Nolla on the right bank through forest, and en-
tered the gorge below Rongellen (see below). The path through the
gorge, the celebrated *Via Mala, was then only 4 ft. wide, and
followed the left bank. The new road was constructed in 1822.
The limestone-rocks rise almost perpendicularly on both sides to a
height of 1600 ft. At the Kédnzli, a little way from the entrance
of the ravine, there is a fine retrospect. About 11/, M. from
Thusis is the Verlorne Loch, a tunnel 50 yds. long, penetrating
the projecting rock. Before reaching it the road passes beneath
a huge overhanging cliff. At the point, beyond the tunnel, where
the side-wall ceases and the wooden railings recommence, a view of
the brawling torrent is obtained. The retrospective *View, through
the narrow and gloomy defile, of the solitary tower of Hohen-Rhe-
tien and the sunny slopes of the Heinzenberg beyond is very striking.
Near the (3/4 M.) post-house of Rongellen the gorge expands,
but soon again contracts. The road crosses the river three times at
short intervals. The scene is most imposing in the vicinity of the
= —
38 Route 5. SPLUGEN. From Coire
*Szconp Brings (2844 ft.), built in 1739, 1 M. from Rongellen. The
Rhine, 260 ft. below the road, winds through a ravine so narrow
that the precipices above almost meet. At the third bridge, built
in 1834, about 1 M. farther, the Via Mala ends.
The road now enters the more open Valley of Schams, the
green meadows and cheerful cottages of which present a pleas-
ant contrast to the sombre defile just quitted. To the 8. in the
background are the peaks of the Hirli (9373 ft.). Above the old
bridge the Rhine forms a small waterfall. The first village in the
valley of Schams (6 M. from Thusis) is Zillis, Roman. Ciraun
(3061 ft.; Post), with the oldest church in the valley. On the
hill to the right, on the left bank of the Rhine, stands the ruined
castle of Fardtin, or La Turr. Below lies the village of Donat, above
which towers the Piz Beverin. On the same bank are the village
of Clugin and the tower of the ruined castle of Cagliatscha.
231/oM. Andeer (3212 ft.; *Krone, or Hotel Fravi) is the prin-
cipal village in the valley, with 600 inhabitants. Fine view of the
valley from the church, built in 1673.
The road ascends in windings, passes the ruins of the Bdren-
burg, and enters the *Rofna Ravine, a gorge 3 M. in length, in
which the Rhine forms a series of waterfalls. Near the entrance
the Averser Rhein descends from the Ferrera Valley and joins the
Hinter-Rhein. Towards the end of the gorge, an old bridge crosses
the Rhine. Farther on, a rocky gateway (Sassa Plana), 16 yds. in
length, is passed. The open Alpine landscape of the Rheinwald-
thal (Val Rhein) is now disclosed; to the right lies Suvers (4673 ft. ) ;
opposite rise the Pizzo Uccello (8914 ft.) and the Einshorn (9650 ft. ) ;
to the left of the Spliigen, near the Uccello, is the Tambohorn
(10,748 ft.); to the W. the Zapporthorn (9803. ft.), ete.
321/, M. Spligen, Roman. Spluga (A757 ft.; Hétel Bodenhaus
or Post), the capital of the Rheinwaldthal, is a busy place, owing to
its position at the junction of the Spliigen and Bernardino routes.
The latter (p. 40) here runs to the W. The Spliigen route turns
to the left, crosses the Rhine, and ascends in windings, passing
through a tunnel 93 yds. in length. Retrospect of the barren Kalk-
berg rising above Spliigen. The road then enters a bleak valley
and ascends on the W. side by numberless zigzags , passing a soli-
tary Refuge, to the summit of the Spligen Pass (Colmo dell’ Orso ;
6946 ft.), lying between the precipitous Tambohorn, or Schnee-
horn (10,748 ft.) to the W., and the Surettahorn (9925 ft.) to
the E. This narrow ridge forms the boundary between Switzer-
land and Italy. The pass, which was known to the Romans, was
traversed down to 1818 by a bridle-path only. The road was con-
structed by the Austrian government in 1819-21. About 3/,M
beyond the pass is the Dogana (6247 ft.), the Italian custom-
house, at the head of a bleak valley surrounded by lofty mountains.
The road now descends by numberless zigzags along the E.
to Colico. CHIAVENNA. 5. Route. 39
slope, being protected against avalanches by three long galleries.
Beyond the second gallery a beautiful view is obtained of Zsola and
the old road, destroyed by an inundation in 1834. The new road
avoids the dangerous Liro gorge between Isola and Campo Doleino.
Beyond Pianazzo, near the entrance to a short gallery, the Madésimo
forms a magnificent waterfall, about 700 ft. in height, which is
best surveyed from a small platform by the road-side.
50 M. Campo Doleino (3457 ft.; Croce d’Oro ; Posta or Corona)
consists of four large groups of houses. The second contains the
church, surrounded by ash-trees, and the ‘Campo Santo’. The Liro
Valley is strewn with fragments of rock, but the wildness of the
scene is softened by the luxuriant foliage of the chestnuts lower
down, from which rises the slender white campanile of the church
of Madonna di Gallivaggio. Near 8. Giacémo there are whole forests
of chestnuts, which extend far up the steep mountain slopes. The
vineyards of Chiavenna soon begin, and the rich luxuriance of
Italian vegetation unfolds itself to the view.
081/) M. Chiavenna, Ger. Clefen or Cldven (1090 ft.; *Hotel
Conradi, near the post-office, R. 3, D. 5, 8. 31/9, B. 11/9 fr.; Chiave
d'Oro), the Roman Clavenna, an ancient town with 4100 inhab., is
charmingly situated on the Maira, at the mouth of the Val Bregaglia,
through which the road to the Maloja Pass and the Engadine leads.
Opposite the post-office, on the road, are the extensive ruins of a
castle, formerly the property of the De Salis family. Picturesque
view from the castle-garden or ‘paradiso’ (fee 1/9 fr. ), which extends
along an isolated vine-clad rock. — S. Lorenzo, the principal church,
near the post-office, has an elegant slender clock-tower or campa-
nile, rising from the old Campo Santo, or burial-ground, with its ar-
cades. The Battisterio contains an ancient font adorned with reliefs.
The road to Colico at first traverses vineyards; farther on, the
effects of the inundations of the Maira, and its tributary the Liro,
which joins it below Chiavenna, become apparent. Near —
65 M. Riva the road reaches the Lago di Riva, or di Mezzola,
which, before the construction of the road, travellers were obliged
to cross by boat. This piece of water originally formed the N. bay
of the Lake of Como, but the deposits of the Adda have in the
course of ages almost entirely separated the two lakes, and they
are now connected by a narrow channel only. The road skirts the
K. bank of the lake, in some places supported by embankments and
masonry, in others passing through galleries, and crosses the Adda.
The ruins of the castle of Fuentes, erected by the Spaniards in
1603 , and destroyed by the French in 1796, are now seen on the
right. It was formerly situated on an island, and considered the
key of the Val Tellina. Before reaching Colico the road is joined
by the Stelvio route from the left.
7151/9 M. Colico (722 ft.; Isola Bella, Angelo, both in the Italian
style; Ristoratore della Posta, on the lake) is situated at the N.E.
AO) Route 5. LUKMANIER.
From Coire
extremity of the Lake of Como (R. 23). From Colico to Como, see
pp. 157-152.
From Coire to Biasca by the Lukmanier.
T7 M. DiLtigence to (89 M.) Disentis twice daily in 83/4 hrs. (fare 14 fr.
85c., coupé 18 fr.); from Disentis to (88 M.) Biasca once daily in 8!/s hrs.
(fare 13 fr. 10 ¢.; coupé 16 fr. 20¢.).
From Coire to (6 M.) Reichenau, see p. 33. The road, one of the
most picturesque in Switzerland, ascends the valley of the Vorder-Rhein,
which is plentifully sprinkled with castles. Numerous villages and ham-
lets are passed. Above (2!/, M.) Trins rises the ruined castle of Hohentrins.
13 M. Flims (3616ft.), a small and ancient town. — The pensions of
Waldhduser, 1 M. farther, are in great request in summer. — At Schlewis
(2507 ft.) is the chateau of Léwenberg.
20'/2 M. Ilanz (2355 ft.; Oberalp; Lukmanier), prettily situated at
the mouth of the Lugnetz Valley. — To the right, near the village of
Waltensburg, are the ruins of Jérgenberg. The Rhine is crossed near
Tavanasa, and again near Zignau or Rinkenberg. The Rinkenberg bridge
commands one of the finest views in the valley.
32 M. Trons (2822ft.; Krone; Zum Todi). At Somvix the valley of
the same name opens on the S. The road between Somvix and Disentis
is remarkable for the boldness of its construction. Several tributaries of
the Rhine are crossed.
38'/2 M. Disentis (3773 ft. ; *Disentiser Hof; *Hétel Condrau, zur Post ;
“Hotel Condrau, zur Krone), a market-town with a Benedictine Abbey,
situated at the confluence of the Medelser, or Mittel-Rhein, and the Vor-
der-Khein. The Lukmanier road ascends the valley of the former, while
the road to Andermatt leads through the Vorder-Rhein valley.
The New Roap over the Lukmanier Pasg (opened in 1878) crosses the
Vorder-Rhein just above its confluence with the Mittel-Rhein, and enters
the *Val Medel, the profound and wild ravine of the latter stream.
Eleven tunnels are passed through before Curaglia is reached, and numerous
magnificent views are enjoyed. At the end of the ravine the road crosses
to the right bank of the Rhine.
Ai'/, M. Curaglia (4370 ft.; Post), at the entrance to the Val Platta.
— 46 M. Platta (4528ft.; Post). Several hamlets are passed. — A8!/2 M.
Perdatsch (5093 ft.), a group of hovels, at the mouth of the Val Cristalina.
The road ascends by a long bend to S¢. Gion (5298 ft.), and then gradually
mounts to the hospice of —
50M. S. Maria (6043 ft.; *Inn). About 1!/, M. farther, the road crosses
the summit of the Lukmanier (6289 ft.), the boundary between the
Grisons and Canton Ticino, and, with one exception (the Maloja, 5941 ft.),
the lowest of the Alpine passes from Switzerland to Italy. The road is
now level for some distance, and then leads high above the Brenno,
on the precipitous N. side of the Val S. Maria, being hewn at places in
the face of the rock. The road next descends to (4!/2 M.) the hospice of
Camperio (4028 ft.), where it crosses the Brenno.
68 M. Olivone (2927ft.; *Hétel Olivone), the highest village in the Val
Blegno, picturesquely situated. — The road descends on the left bank of
the Brenno, passing numerous villages. The lower part of the Val Blegno
is monotonous.
16 M. Biasca, see p. 34. The station is 1 M. to the S. of the village.
From Coire to Bellinzona by the S. Bernardino Pass.
76 M. Diticence from Coire to Bellinzona once daily in summer
in 16hrs. (fare 27fr. 10, coupé 33fr. 45¢.). Carriages are changed at
Spliigen, where coupé places cannot always be secured.
From Coire to Spliigen, 321/2 M., see pp. 36-38. — The BernarpIno
toad, constructed in 1819-23, ascends from the village of Spliigen (4757 ft.)
to the W., in the upper Rheinwaldthal, or Val Rhein, on the left bank of
the Hinter-Rhein to —
to Colico. S. BERNARDINO. 5. Route. 41
38'/2 M. Hinterrhein (5302 ft.; Post), the highest village in the valley.
The source of the Hinier-Rhein (7270 ft.), which issues from the Rheinwald
or Zapport Glacier, may be reached hence in 3!/z hrs. The road crosses the
Rhine, about 1/2 M. beyond the village, and then winds up the steep S.
slope of the valley, finally leading through a bleak upland glen to the
S. Bernardino Pass (6768 ft.), which was known to the Romans, and was
called the Vogelberg down to the 15th century. When S. Bernardino of Siena
preached the gospel at that period in this region, a chapel was erected
on the 5. slope and gave its name to the pass. The small Lago Moésola
(2 hrs. from Hinter-Rhein) lies on the summit of the pass (Inn). From
the S. end of the lake issues the Moésa, which the road follows down to
its confluence with the Ticino above Bellinzona. The new road descends
in windings, crossing lower down to the right bank of the Moésa.
49'/2 M. S. Bernardino (5335 ft.; *Hotel Brocco; Ravizza; Desteffanis),
4 M. from the summit of the pass, the highest village in the Val Mesocco,
or Mesolcma. Several waterfalls are observed. Near S. Giacomo the road
again crosses the river, and then descends rapidly to —
58 M. Mesocco, or Cremeo (2559ft.; Toscani; *Desteffanis), a charming-
ly situated village, where walnut-trees, chestnuts, vines, and maize-
fields begin to indicate the Italian nature of the climate. On a rocky
eminence to the left of the road, '/2 M. below Mesocco, stand the im-
posing ruins of the Chdteaw of Mesocco with its four towers, which was
destroyed by the inhabitants of the Grisons in 1526. Beyond (2 M.)
Soazza (2067 ft.) the bottom of the valley is reached, and the road becomes
level. Near the second bridge below Soazza the Buffalora forms a fine
cascade near the road. Near Cabbiolo is another waterfall.
68 M. Cama (1260ft.). The next villages are Leggia and Grono, the
latter at the entrance to the Val Calanca.
TL M. Roveredo (974 ft.; *Angelo; Croce), the capital of the lower
Val Mesoceo, with the ruined castle of the Trivulzio family.
S. Vittore (882ft.) is the last village in the Grisons, Lumino the first
in the Canton Ticino. On this side the bridge over the Moésa the road
unites with the St. Gotthard route (p. 35). Below the confluence of the
Moésa and the Ticino lies Arbedo, where a battle was fought in 1422 be-
tween the Milanese and the Swiss, in which 2000 of the latter fell.
76'/2M. Bellinzona, a station on the St. Gotthard Railway, see p. 35,
6. From Innsbruck to Verona by the Brenner.
166 M. Ratrway in 9-12 hrs.; express fares 39 fr. 55, 29 fr. 30 c.; ordi-
nary 33 fr. 50, 24 fr. 95, 16 fr. 80¢. Views on the right as far as the
summit of the Brenner. Information as to through-tickets, which are
paid for in Italian money, see Introd. vii.
The Brenner, the lowest pass over the principal chain of the Alps, is
traversed by the oldest of the Alpine routes, which was used as early as
the Roman period, and rendered practicable for carriages in 1772. The
railway, opened in 1867, one of the grandest modern works of the kind,
affords the most direct communication between S. E. Germany and Italy.
Within a distance of 78 M. the line is carried through 22 tunnels, and
over 60 large and a number of smaller bridges. The greatest incline,
1:40, is between Innsbruck and the culminating point. .
Innsbruck (1912 ft.; *Ziroler Hof; *Europdischer Hof, both
near the station; Goldene Sonne, Goldener Adler, in the town;
Hirsch, second-class), see Baedeker’s Eastern Alps. The train
passes the Abbey of Wilten (on the right) and penetrates the hill
of Isel by a tunnel 750 yds. in length. It then passes through an-
other tunnel, and crosses to the right bank of the Sill, on which it
ascends. On the S. rises the Waldraster-Spitze (8907 ft.). Five
tunnels. Beyond (5 M.) Patsch (2550 ft.), the valley becomes
narrower and wilder, Four more tunnels. The Sill is crossed twice.
A2 Route 6. BRENNER. From Innsbruck
12M.-Matrei (3241 ft.), with the chateau of Trautson, the prop-
erty of Prince Auersperg, is charmingly situated. — 14 M. Steinach
(3430 ft.); the village lies on the other side of the valley, at the
mouth of the Gschnitzthal. — The train now ascends a steep incline,
crosses the Schmirner Thal in a wide curve above the village of
Stafflach (two tunnels), and runs high above the profound ravine
of the Sill to (19/2 M.) Gries (4100 ft.). It then, in another curve,
passes the small green Brennersee, and reaches —
231/oM. Stat, Brenner (4485 ft.), on the summit of the pass, the
watershed between the Black Sea and the Adriatic. View limited.
The Sill, which rises on the N. side of the pass, falls into the Inn;
the Hisak, rising on the 8. side, descends to the Adige. The train
follows the course of the Kisak and soon stops at (26 M.) Brenner-
bad (4353 ft. ; *Logirhaus), a popular bath-establishment. It then
descends rapidly by means of a long embankment and through two
tunnels to stat. Schelleberg (4065 ft.), where it turns into the
Pflersch-Thal. Here it enters the N. slope of the valley by a curved
tunnel, 800 yds. long, from which it emerges in the opposite direc-
tion, soon reaching (33 M.) Gossensass (3481 ft.; *Brauhaus),
which lies 584 ft. below Schelleberg. This is one of the most in-
teresting parts of the line, and is most striking when seen in the
reverse direction. — The train now runs high above the Eisak,
passing at places through wild rocky scenery , and enters the broad
basin in which lies —
38M. Sterzing (3107 ft. ; Goldner Greif; Neue Post ; Schwarzer
Adler; Stoetter’s Hotel, at the station), a clean and picturesque
little town with curious old buildings and arcades, deriving its
prosperity from mines formerly worked here.
The train now crosses the Pfitscher Bach; on the left rises the
castle of Sprechenstein, and on the right bank of the EKisak the
ruins of Thumburg and Reifenstein are visible. — A40%/g M.
Freienfeld. The train crosses the Eisak; on the left bank rises the
ruined castle of Welfenstein (said to be of Roman origin), and the
village of Mauls. — Beyond (45 M.) Grasstein the train enters the
narrow detile of Mittewald, where the French were defeated in 1809.
The lower end of the defile, called the Brirener Klause, near
Unterau (2460 ft.), is strongly fortified by the Franzensfeste,
which was constructed in 1833, and commands the Brenner route.
Franzensfeste (47!/, M. from Innsbruck) is the junction for the
Pusterthal line (for Carinthia); the station (*Rail. Restaurant,
with rooms to let, D. 1 fi. 20 kr., R. 1 fl.) lies at some distance
from the fortifications. The vegetation now assumes a more southern
character, vineyards and chestnuts gradually appearing.
561/) M. Brixen, Ital. Bressanone (1833 ft. ; *Elephant, adjoining
the post-office, 1/2 M. from the station), was for nine centuries the
capital of a spiritual principality, which was dissolved in 1803,
to Verona. BOTZEN. 6. Route. 43
and is still an episcopal residence. Most of the churches date from
the 18th cent., and are unimportant. At the S.W. end of the town
is the Episcopal Palace with an extensive garden.
The train next crosses the Kisak by an iron bridge; on the right,
above, lies J’schdtsch; on the left, the pleasant village of Albeins.
61!/, M. Klausen (1676 ft.; Lamm; Post), consisting of a single
narrow street, is situated in a defile, as its name imparts. The
Benedictine monastery of Seben, on the right, commands a very
striking view. It was once a Rhetian fortress, then a Roman fort
under the name of Sabiona, afterwards an episcopal residence down
to the 10th cent., and finally a baronial castle.
Below Klausen the valley contracts. The line skirts precipitous
porphyry cliffs. On the heights above extend fertile ere
sprinkled with numerous villages. 661/2 M. Waidbruck (1520 ft.
Sonne), at the mouth of the Gridener Thal. On the left , high
above, rises the T'rostburg, the property of Count Wolkenstein.
The train crosses the Grédenerbach, and then the Hisak.
71M. Atawang (1244 ft.), at the mouth of the Finsterbach. The
train again crosses the Eisak, in a narrow valley enclosed by abrupt
porphyry rocks, called the Kuntersweg after the supposed con-
structor of the road (44th cent.). Several tunnels. 76 M. Blumau,
at the mouth of the Tierser Thal. On the right bank are the vine-
clad slopes of the Bozener Leitach; another tunnel is passed through,
and the train crosses to the right bank of the Eisak near the village
of Kardaun, at the opening of the Eggenthal. The train now enters
the wide basin of Botzen, a district of luxuriant fertility.
80 M. Botzen, or Boxen, Ital. Bolzano (850 ft. ; *Kaiserkrone,
in the Musterplatz, R. from 80 kr., D. 11/y fl.; *Hétel Victoria,
near the station, R. 11/,fl., B. 50, A. 25, L. 25kr.; Mondschein;
Erzherzog Heinrich; Krdutner; Schwarzer Greif; Stigl), with
10,300 inhab., the most important commercial town in the Tyrol,
is beautifully situated at the confluence of the Eisak and the Tal-
fer, which descends from the Sarnthal on the N. The background
towards the EK. is formed by the strikingly picturesque dolomite
mountains of the Val di Fassa; to the W. rises the long porphyry
ridge of the Mendola. The Gothic Parish Church of the 14th and
15th cent. has a portal with two lions of red marble, in the
Lombard style. Beautiful open tower, completed in 1519. On
the E, side is the new Cemetery. — The Calvarienberg (25 min.
walk; beyond the Eisak bridge cross the railway to the right)
commands a fine view of the town and environs. — Gries (1 M. from
the station), in a sheltered situation on the right bank of the Tal-
fer, has of late years become a winter-resort for invalids.
From Botzen a branch-line diverges to (20 M.) Meran (1!/2-2 hrs.;
Ist cl., 1 fl. 64 kr.; 3rd cl., 98kr.). Intermediate stations: Sigmundskron,
Siebeneich, Terlan, Vilpian, Gargazon, Lana, Untermais. Meran, see Bae-
deker’s Eastern Alps.
Beyond Botzen the train crosses the Kisak, which falls into the
Anny
We ii
44 Route 6. TRENT. From Innsbruck
Etsch (or Adige) 4 M. below the town. The latter becomes navigable
at (87 M.) Branzoll (Ital. Bronzollo). In the distance, to the right,
rises the dilapidated castle of Sigmundskron, and the wooded range
of the Mittelberg, which separates the vine-covered plain of Eppan
from the valley of the Adige. Beyond (89 M) Auer (Ital. Ora), near
Gmund, the train crosses the river; to the right lies the Kalterer
See; above it, on the hill, Kaltern, with its famous vineyards. —
94 M. Newmarkt, Ital. Egna. Roads to the Fleimserthal diverge at
Auer and Neumarkt. On the slopes to the right lie Tramin, Kur-
tatsch, and Margreid. — 99M. Salurn, on the left bank, com-
manded by a ruined castle on an apparently inaccessible rock. —
The Roechetta Pass to the right leads to the Val di Non. Mezzo
Tedesco and Mezzo Lombardo (or Deutsch and Wailsch- Metz),
situated on different sides of the pass, separated by the Noce, are
both Italian.
104 M. S. Michele, or Wéilsch-Michael, with a handsome old
Augustinian monastery (suppressed), is the station for the Val
di Non. The train again crosses the Adige. 1081/, M. Lavis on the
Avisio, which here descends from the Val Cembra. This impetuous
torrent with its different ramifications is crossed above its junction
with the Adige by a bridge 1000 yds. in length.
115 M. Trent. — *Hére, Trento (Pl. a), R. from 1 fl. 20, D. 2 f1.,
A. 30, L. 25 kr.; *H6TEL pe LA VILLE (Pl. c), both near the station.
In the town: *Europa (Pl. b). Of the second class: AL REBECCHINO,
moderate; AQuiLa Branca, near the castle; AGNELLO. — Cafés: *All’ Isola
Nuova, at the station; Huropa; Specchi.
Trent (685 ft.), or Trento, Lat. Tridentum, with 19,600 inhab.,
formerly the wealthiest and most important town in the Tyrol,
founded according to tradition by the Etruseans, and mentioned by
Strabo, Pliny, and Ptolemy, possesses numerous towers, palaces of
marble, dilapidated castles, and broad streets, and bears the im-
press of an important Italian town. The Piazza del Duomo in par-
ticular presents a very imposing appearance.
The *Cathedral, founded in 1048, begun in its present form in
1212, and completed at the beginning of the 45th cent., is a
Romanesque church surmounted by two domes. The portal, as at
Botzen (p. 43), is adorned with a pair of lions. In the S. transept
are several old monuments, half-faded frescoes, and on the wall
the porphyry tombstone of the Venetian general Sanseverino,
whom the citizens of Trent defeated and killed at Calliano (p. 47)
in 1487. In the Piazza of the cathedral, which is embellished with
a Fountain, are the Courts of Justice, and the Torre di Piazza.
S. Maria Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent sat
in 1545-63, contains a picture, on the N. wall of the choir, with
portraits of the members of the council, and an excellent organ
dating from 1534. Adjoining the S. side of the choir is a column
dedicated to the Virgin, erected in 1855 on the 300th anniversary
of the meeting of the Council,
to Verona, TRENT. 6. Route. 45
The Museum in the Municipio, Via Larga, near the cathedral,
contains a collection of bronzes and other antiquities from S. Tyrol,
Kgyptian antiquities, majolicas, Japanese curiosities, ete.
Among the numerous old palaces, the painted facades of which
ill conceal the poverty within, may be mentioned Palazzo Zambelli,
opposite the Hotel Europa, dating from the 16th cent. (fine view
from the garden), and Palazzo Tabarelli, in the Contrada del Teatro,
said to have been built from designs by Bramante,
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Campo § iS
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To the E. of the town, and N. of the large Piazza d’Armi, is situated
the extensive chateau of Buon Consiglio, formerly the seat of the Prince-
Bishops of Trent, and now a barrack, which contains remains of ancient
frescoes. The colossal, circular Torre di Augusto is supposed to date from
the time of the Romans.
The rocky eminence of Verruca, or Dos Trento (950 ft.), on the right
bank of the Adige, was fortified in 1857, and affords a fine point of view.
The terrace of the Capuchin Church on the E. side of the town also com-
mands a good view. On the S.W. side of the town lies the interesting
Campo Santo, or cemetery. In a wild ravine to the E. of Trent, near
the (1/2 hr.) Ponte Alto and below the road leading into the Val Sugana
(see below), is a fine waterfall formed by the Fersina, which has been
rendered easily accessible by a new path,
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46 Route 6. ARCO. From Innsbruck
From Trent to RIVA ON THE LaGo pI GARDA, 26 M. Omnibus once
daily in 6 hrs., starting usually at 9 a.m., fare 2 fl.; carriage with one
horse 9, with two horses 15 fl.
This route is far preferable to the direct railway-journey to Verona
(see p. 47) on account of the charming scenery of the Lago di Garda.
The traveller from Botzen, whose time is limited, may shorten the route
by taking the railway to Mori (p. 47), and driving thence to (10 M.) Riva
(see p. 187). Omnibus thrice daily in 21/2 hrs., fare 90 kr. (coupé 1 fl.).
The road crosses the Adige, traverses the suburb Pie di Castello, and
winds round the 8. slope of the Dos Trento (p. 45). A wild and rocky
defile (Buco di Vela) is now entered, the upper end of which (3 M.) is
closed by a newly erected fort. Traversing the bleak mountain ridge,
the road reaches (11/2 M.) the small village of Cadine (1715 ft.); to the
right in the valley lies the village of Terlago with its small lake (1320 ft.),
at the base of the precipitous Monte Gazza (6515 ft.). The road now de-
scends to (11/2 M.) Vigolo-Baselga and (3 M.) Vezzano (* Croce, good wine),
the principal place between Trent and Arco. At (4/2 M.) Padernione,
at the mouth of the Val Cavedine, where we observe the first olive
trees, the Lake of Toblino becomes visible. The road crosses the narrow-
est part of it by a bridge, and skirts the N. bank; to the left, on a pro-
montory, rises the picturesque castle of Zoblino, the property of Count
Wolkenstein (the castellan keeps good wine). Below (3 M.) ZLe Sarche
(Inn), where the Sarca emerges from a gorge, and the road to Giu-
dicaria diverges, the Sarca is crossed by a bridge. Next (11/2 M.) Pietra
Murata. Near (4/2 M.) Drd is the ruined Castello di Drena on an emi-
nence to the left. The road, which has hitherto led through a bleak and
rocky wilderness, now traverses a more fertile district. (3 M.) Arco
(300ft.; *Curhaus, with 80 rooms, ‘pension’ 3-4 fl.; *Hétel Arco, ‘pension’
21/2-31/2 fl.; *Corona; Olivo; Reinalter; Bellevue; Aurora), with a handsome
parish-church with metal-clad domes, has of late become a favourite
winter resort for invalids, owing to its sheltered situation. New chateau
belonging to Archduke Albrecht of Austria. To the N., on a precipitous
rock (400 ft.), rises the Chdteau of Arco, which during the Spanish War
of Succession was destroyed by the French (key kept by the gardener,
Via degli Ulivi al Castello; 40-50 kr.). — Interesting excursion from
Arco towards the W. to Tenno, see p. 188. — The road now leads through
the broad, beautiful valley (to the left the Monte Brione, to the right
Tenno) to (33/4 M.) Riva (comp. p. 4188).
From TRENT TO Bassano BY THE Vat SuGana, 57 M. Diligence daily
in 11-12 hrs. (fare 4 fl.).
This direct route to Venice (although not the most expeditious) tra-
verses the beautiful Venetian Mountains. The road, which ascends imme-
diately beyond Trent, enters the narrow valley of the Fersina, and is
partially hewn in the rocks or supported by buttresses of masonry. The
narrowest part is defended by an Austrian fortification.
W/2 M. Pergine (1578 ft.; Fratelli Voltolini), a considerable market-
town, commanded by the handsome castle of that name. The road now
crosses a range of hills. Retrospect to the left of the castle of Pergine,
to the right of a small portion of the Lake of Caldonazzo. The small
Lago di Levico is then skirted to (13 M.) Levico (Hétel Bellevue, Concordia,
Stabilimento, Pension Svizzera, all with table-d’hote), a watering-place
with mineral baths, frequented by Italians from May to September. The
Val Sugana, watered by the Brenta, begins at Levico, its capital being —
21 M. Borgo (1230 ft.; *Croce), on the N. side of which rises the ruined
castle of Telvana, with the remains of a second castle high above it.
3elow the town is the beautiful chateau of Jvano, belonging to Count
Wolkenstein-Trostburg.
Near Grigno the valley of Tesino opens to the N., watered by the
Grigno. Beyond Grigno the valley is confined between lofty cliffs which
barely leave room for the road. The Austrian custom-house is at Le
Tezze, the Italian */; M. beyond it. In a rocky cavity beyond (21/4 M.) —
38 M. Primolano, is situated the ruined castle of Covelo, a medieval
ROVEREDO.
to Verona. 6. Route. A7
stronghold. About 1 M. farther the Cismone descends from the Val Pri-
miero. 7M. Valstagna is inhabited chiefly by straw-hat makers.
Near (6 M.) Solagna the ravine of the Brenta expands. About 1!/. M.
farther the road turns a corner, and a view is obtained of a broad plain
with large olive-plantations in which lies the picturesque town of —
57 M. Bassano, see p. 227.
Beyond Trent the railway continues to traverse the broad and
fertile valley of the Adige. To the 8.W. of Trent, on the right
bank, is the village of Sardagna, with a considerable waterfall.
117 M. Matarello. On a height near (123 M.) Calliano rises the
extensive castle of Beseno, the property of Count Trapp. The
rocky debris here are the result of a landslip.
129 M. Roveredo (680 ft.; Corona, Cervo), a town with 8900
inhab., is noted for its silk-culture. The principal building is the
old Castello in the Piazza del Podesta. — Road to Schio, see p. 218.
The lower part of the valley of the Adige, down to the Italian
frontier, which yields abundance of fruit and good red wine, is
called the Val Lagarina. On the right bank lies Isera, with vine-
yards, numerous villas, and a waterfall. On the left bank, to the
K. of the railway, near Lizzana, is a castle, which about the year
1302 was visited by Dante when banished from Florence. The
train follows the left bank of the Adige.
132M. Mori; the village lies in a ravine on the opposite bank,
on the road leading to Riva, and is famed for its asparagus. —
Omnibus to Riva (101/p M.), see p. 188.
Near S. Marco the line intersects the traces of a vast landslip,
which is said to have buried a town here in 833, and is described
by Dante (Inferno xii. 4-9). At (136 M.) Serravalle , a fort which
once guarded the defile, the valley contracts.
141 M. Ala (415 ft.; Posta; Rail. Restaurant), a place of some
importance with 3800 inhab., possesses velvet-manufactories which
once enjoyed a high reputation, and is the seat of the Italian and
Austrian custom-house authorities. Those who have forwarded
luggage by this route to or from Italy should take the precaution
to enquire for it at the custom-house here. Halt of W/o hr. —
Avio is the last station in the Austrian dominions. The village,
with a well-preserved chateau of Count Castelbarco, lies on the
right bank of the Adige.
Peri is the first Italian station. The Monte Baldo (7280 ft.) on
the W. separates the valley of the Adige from the Lago di Garda.
148 M. Ceraino. The train now enters the celebrated Chiusa di
Verona, a rocky defile in which in 1155 Otho of Wittelsbach pro-
tected against the Veronese the retreating German army under Fred-
erick Barbarossa. On an eminence on the right bank lies Rivoli,
which was stormed several times by the French in 1796 and 1797
under Massena, and afterwards gave him his ducal title.
The train passes Domegliard, Pescantina, and Parona, crosses the
Adige, and reaches the Verona and Milan line at 8. Lucia (p. 185).
48 Route 7. JUDENBURG. From Vienna
At Verona (see p. 199) it first stops at (1641/, M.) the Stazione
Porta Nuova and then at the (166 M.) Stazione Porta Vescovo.
¢. From Vienna (Zruck) to Venice. Pontebba Railway.
398 M. Rartway in 16!/2-241/s hrs. (fares 72 fr. 40, 53 fr. 20, 36 fr. 25 ¢. ;
express 84 fr. 45, 61 fr. 95 c.). — The new *PonrERBA RAILWAY, uniting
the Bruck and Villach line of the Austrian Rudolf-Bahn with the railway-
system of Northern Italy, has shortened the journey from Vienna to Venice
by 90 M. The first half of it, from Villach to Pontafel, belongs to the
Austrian company, the other half to the Italian. The finest scenery is
seen in passing through the Fella Gorge between Pontebba and Resiutta.
From Vienna to (108M.) Bruck, see R. 8. — Our line diverges
to the right from the Austrian South Railway, crosses the Mur by
a long iron bridge, and then turns to the W. into the narrow valley
of that river. Beyond (116 M.) Niklasdorf the train again crosses
the Mur and reaches —
1181 M. Leoben (1880 ft.; Post; Mohr; Kindler), the capital
of Upper Styria and the seat of the government mining authorities.
Pop. 5000. The negociations between Napoleon and the Austrians
preliminary to the Peace of Campo Formio took place at Leoben in
1797 (comp. p. 280). — The rain follows the Mur, passing the
chateau of Goss, formerly an episcopal residence, on the left.
126 M. St. Michael (1950 ft. ; *Rait. Restaurant), atthe mouth of
the Liesing- Thal, is the junction for St. Valentin and Linz. Several
unimportant stations. — 140 M. Knittelfeld (2112 ft.), a prettily
situated little town, lies at the mouth of the Ingering- Thal.
1491/o M. Judenburg (Rail. Restaurant), an ancient town at
the base of the Seethal Alps, 11/2 M. from the railway. Extensive
foundries. 153 M. Thalheim; 158M, St. Georgen. 161 M. Unz-
markt, a village on the right bank of the Mur. On the opposite
bank rises the ruin of Frauenburg, once the seat of the minnesinger
Ulrich von Liechtenstein. Beyond (1651/y M.) Scheifling, with the
chateau of Schrattenberg, belonging to Prince Schwarzenberg, the
train quits the valley of the Mur, and ascends to (1701/y M.) St. Lam-
brecht (2900 ft.), on the watershed between the Drave and the Mur.
It then descends the picturesque valley of the Olsa, passing (173 M.)
Neumarkt and the small baths of (1771/) M.) Einéd.
1831/y M. Friesach (2090 ft.; Post ; Mohr), an ancient town,
still surrounded with walls and moats, and commanded by several
ruined castles. The Gothic parish-church dates from the 15th cent.;
the Dominican Church is in the transition style of the 13th century.
The train now enters the Krappfeld, the fertile plain of the
Gurk ; to the E. is the Sawalpe, to the S. rise the Karawanken.
187 M. Hirt. Near (190 M.) Treibach are extensive iron - works.
To the left is the village of Althofen, with an ancient watch-tower.
199 M. Lawnsdorf (Rail. Restaurant). The most interesting of the
numerous ancestral castles of the Carinthian nobles in this district is
“Hohen-Osterwitz, the property of the Khevenhiiller family, situated
to Venice. VILLACH, 7. Route. 49
2M. to the 8.W., on a rock 918 ft. high. — From (203 M.) Glan-
dorf (*Rail. Restaurant) a branch-line diverges to Klagenfurt.
203!/. M. St. Veit (1600 ft.; Réssl), an ancient town with
2300 inhab., was the capital of Carinthia and the residence of the
dukes down to 1519. The town-hall is embellished with curious
reliefs. Gothic church of the 15th century.
The line continues to ascend the pretty valley of the Glan.
2081/5 M. Feistrits-Pulst. On a height to the right stands the ruin
of Liebenfels, on the left the ruined castles of Karlsberg and Hardegg.
213 M. Glanegg is also commanded by an old castle. The train now
traverses a narrow wooded part of the valley, then quits the Glan,
crosses a low ridge, and enters the broad valley of the Tiebel.
219 M. Feldkirchen (Rauter), a considerable village. To the left
the iron-works of Buchscheiden, to the right the high-lying church
of Tiffen. The train then approaches the Ossiacher See (1600 ft.),
a lake 6 M. in length, on the N. bank of which it runs at the base
of the Gerlitzen-Alp (6250 ft.). Opposite (224 M.) Ossiach is the
monastery of the same name. The extensive ruin of Landskron,
perched on a projecting buttress at the S.W. end of the lake, now
comes into view. The train turns to the S. and reaches ——
2321/2 M. Villach (1595 ft. ; *Post; *Hétel Tarmann, near the
station; “Rail. Restaurant), an old town on the Drave, with
5000 inhab., the junction of the lines to Marburg and Franzens-
feste, picturesquely situated in a broad, fertile basin at the base of
the Dobratsch (7067 ft.). The Gothic Parish Church (16th cent.)
contains numerous tombstones of the Khevenhiiller, Dietrichstein,
and other noble families ; *View from the tower. The Hans Gasser-
Platz is adorned with a statue of Gasser, the sculptor (d. 1868).
The train skirts the town towards the S., and crosses the Drave
by a handsome iron bridge. On the right bank , to the S.W. of
Villach, lies the large goods-station of the Rudolf-Bahn. — 235M.
Bad Villach, with warm sulphur springs.and a well-equipped bath-
house. The train now crosses the Gail and reaches (2371/5 M.)
Firnitz, opposite which lies Federaun, with a ruined castle and a
lofty shot-tower. To the left rises the Wurzen (3515 ft.), — 243 M.
Arnoldstein, with a suppressed Benedictine abbey. To the right is
the long ridge of the Dobratsch. Crossing the Gailits or Schlitza
we next halt at (2461/2 M.) Thérl-Maglern, at the entrance of the
fertile and populous Gailthal. The train then runs along the left
side of the deeply furrowed Gailitz Valley, passes through two
tunnels, and reaches —
250 M. Tarvis (2440 ft. ; *Rail. Hotel & Restaurant), where the
railway from Laibach joins ours on the left. Tarvis, the chief place
in the Kanal Valley and a popular summer-resort, consists of Unter-
‘arvis, in the floor of the valley, 1/4, M. from the the station, and
Ober-Tarvis, charmingly situated on the hill-side, 3/4 M. farther.
Ober-Tarvis has a small station of its own, at which the slow trains
BAEDEKER. Italy I. 6th Edit. 4.
50 Route 7. PONTAFEL.
stop. — Beyond Ober-Tarvis the line gradually ascends. To the
left rises the Luschariberg (5880 ft.), with a much- frequented
pilgrimage-church.
255 M. Saifnitz (2615 ft.), on the watershed between the
Schlitza and the Fella, which is also the watershed between the
Black Sea and the Adriatic. The train then descends along the
Fella, which rises a little to the N. of this point, and passes the
mouth of the Wolfsbachgraben. In the background rises the jagged
Wischberg. 2581/g M. Uggowitz. Near the picturesque Fort Mal-
borgeth the Fella is crossed, Beyond (261 M.) Malborgeth the train
runs through a rocky ravine, at the end of which lie the small sul-
phur-baths of (265 M.) Lussnitz-Malborgeth. Farther on the train
again crosses the Fella and penetrates the loose slopes of the Planja-
Graben by a vaulted cutting. It then passes Leopoldskirchen on the
left, and crosses the Fickergraben and the Vogelbach.
2701/5 M. Pontafel (1870 ft. ; *Railway Hotel and Restaurant),
the Austrian frontier-station, where the luggage of passengers arriv-
ing from Italy is examined. Pontafel is separated by the rushing
Pontebbana from — .
271 M. Pontebba (*Railway Restaurant), the first village in
Italy, with the Italian custom-house (luggage examined). The next
part of the railway, traversing the wild ravine of the Fella (*Canal
di Ferro), is remarkable both for the grandeur of the scenery and
for the boldness displayed in the construction of the line. The train
crosses the turbulent Fella several times, and passes through numer-
ous tunnels (24 between Pontebba and Stazione per la Carnia) and
across numerous viaducts. 278 M. Dogna, at the mouth of the valley
of that name. 279 M. Chiusaforte, at the entrance of the picturesque
Raccolana Valley. At (284 M.) Resiutta the train crosses the Resia.
Below (286M.) Moggio the valley of the Fella expands. The bottom
of the valley is covered with rubble and intersected by numerous
small streams. At (289 M.) Stazione per la Carnia the road to the
upper Val Tagliamento diverges to the right. A little lower down
the Fella flows into the T’agliamento, which here waters an exten-
sive plain. The train crosses the Venzonazza, and reaches —
292 M. Venzone, an ancient walled town on the Tagliamento.
The train traverses the marshy valley of the Tagliamento by an im-
posing viaduct, 1/2 M. in length, and then quits the basin of that
river, which flows towards the §8.W. into the Adriatic Sea. —
296 M. Gemona-Ospedaletto ; 300 M. Magnano-Artegna; 3021/> M.
Tarcento; 305 M. Tricesimo; 309 M. Reana del Rojale; 315 M.
Udine, see p. 279, From Udine to (398 M.) Venice, see pp. 279-277.
D1
8. From Vienna to Trieste. Semmering Railway.
370 M. Austrian S. Rainway. Express (1st, in winter 1st and 2nd class)
in 15 hrs. (fares 39 fl. 7, 29 fl. 14, 19 fl. 75 kr.); ordinary trains in 21 hrs.
(fares 32 fl. 75, 24 fl. 63, 16 fl. 50 kr). 50 Ibs. of luggage free, provided
it is at the station at least 1/2 hr. before the departure of the train;
otherwise the whole is liable to be charged for. — Best views generally
on the left. For farther particulars, see Baedeker’s Eastern Alps.
The station of the S. Railway is between the Belvedere and the
Favorite ‘Lines’, or boundaries of the city. The train, soon after
starting, affords a good survey of Vienna, and the broad plain with
its innumerable villas and villages, as far as the hills of the
Leitha, tothe S. 3M. Hetzendorf, with an imperial chateau. On
the hills to the right, near (8 M.) Brunn, are several artificial ruins.
— Near (10 M.) Médling, the Briihl, a picturesque rocky valley,
opens on the W., and a branch-line diverges to the E. to the im-
perial chateau and park of Laxenburg. Stations Guntramsdorf and
Gumpoldskirchen, famous for its wines. A short tunnel is passed.
17M. Baden (695 ft. ; *Stadt Wien; *Griiner Baum ; Schwarzer
Adler), with handsome villas, celebrated for its warm mineral
springs, the Roman Thermae Pannonicae. Beautiful environs.
19 M. Véslau (800 ft. ; *Hdtel Back ; Halimayer), which yields
the best Austrian wine, is also frequented as a watering - place
(74° Fahr.). The next stations are Kottingbrunn, Leobersdorf (to the
right the Schneeberg, 6808 ft.), Felixdorf, and Theresienfeld.
31M. Neustadt, or Wienerisch-Neustadt (930 ft.; Hirsch ;
Kreuz), with 21,700 inhab., is an important manufacturing town.
On the E. side lies the old ducal Castle of the Babenberg family,
converted in 1752 into a military academy.
On the right beyond Neustadt the Schneeberg is visible almost
from base to summit; on the left rises the Leitha range. On the
hills to the right, in the distance, stands the well - preserved
castle of Sebenstein, the property of Prince Liechtenstein. — 35 M.
St. Egyden ; 40 M. Neunkirchen, a manufacturing place; then Ter-
nitz and Potschach. On the height to the left, near Gloggnitz, rises
the castle of Wartenstein. Schloss Gloggnitz on the hill, with its
numerous windows, was a Benedictine Abbey down to 1803.
At (47 M.) Gloggnits (1426 ft.; *Alpenhorn; *Adler; Réssl)
begins the imposing *Semmering Railway, one of the most inter-
esting lines in Europe (best views on the left), completed in 1853.
In the valley lies the green Schwarzau, with the imperial paper-
factory of Schleglmiihl. On the left the three-peaked Sonnwend-
stein; to the W. in the back-ground the Raxalp. The line de-
scribes a wide circuit round the N. side of the valley to (55 M.)
Payerbach (1513 ft.; *Mader ; Rail. Restaurant, with beds), and
crosses the Valley of Reichenaw by a viaduct with 13 arches, 300
yds. long. The train now ascends rapidly on the 8S. slope of the
valley (gradient 1:40). Beyond two short tunnels, it skirts the
Gotschakogel, and beyond two more tunnels reaches (611/.M.) Klamm
A SE TE TO =
Seaceemecaswee
a
52 Route 8. GRATZ. From Vienna
(2254 ft.); with a half-ruined castle of Prince Liechtenstein, on a
rocky pinnacle, once the key of Styria. Far below runs the old
Semmering road; several factories, and the white houses of
Schottwien , nestling in a narrow gorge, are visible. The train now
skirts the Weinzettelwand by a long gallery and reaches (66 M.)
Breitenstein (2544 ft.). Two more tunnels are traversed, and the
ravines of the Kalte Rinne and the Untere Adlitzgraben crossed by
lofty viaducts. After three more tunnels the train reaches —
71 M. Semmering (2884 ft.). In order to avoid the remain-
ing part (360 ft.) of the ascent, the train penetrates the highest part
of the Semmering, the boundary between Austria and Styria, by
a tunnel nearly 1 M. in length, the middle of which is the culmin-
ating point of the line (2890 ft.) and then descends rapidly on the
N. slope of the peaceful dale of the Fréschnitsz to (78 M.) Spital and
(82'/. M.) Mirzzuschlag (2195 ft.; *Erzherzog Johann; *Adler;
Post; Rail. Restaurant, with beds), an old town on the Mirsz.
The train now follows the picturesque , pine-clad valley of the
Miirz, containing numerous forges. 90 M. Krieglach ; 92M. Mitter-
dorf, with extensive gun-manufactories. On the right rises the
chateau of Piichl, with its four towers, and beyond, the ruins of
Lichtenegg. Stations Kindberg and Kapfenberg with the castles of
these names. Near stat. Bruck rises the ancient castle of Landskron.
108 M. Bruck (1589 ft.; *Bernauer, at the station) is a small
town at the confluence of the Mirz and the Mur, with an old
castle. — From Bruck to Villach and Udine ( Venice), see R. 7.
The train now enters the narrow valley of the Mur. 115 M.
Pernegg, with a chateau. Near Mixnitz there are interesting stalac-
tite caves. The forges of (125 M.) Frohnleiten on the right bank and
the castle of Pfannberg on the left belong to Prince Lobkowitz.
Schloss Rabenstein on the right bank is the property of Prince
Liechtenstein. The train passes the Badelwand, and skirts the
river by means of a rocky gallery of 35 arches, above which runs
the high-road. 1291/2 M. Peggau possesses silver and lead mines.
The train crosses the Mur. 132M. Klein-Stiibing, with a hand-
some chateau; 134 M. Gratwein. Near (136 M.) Judendorf, on an
eminence to the W., rises the Gothic pilgrimage-church of Maria-
Strassengel with handsome towers. The train now skirts a height,
at the foot of which rises the castle of Gosting, a favourite resort
of the Gratzers, and enters the fertile basin in which Gratz is
situated. In the foreground rises the Schlossberg.
141 M. Gratz (1068 ft.). —- Horers on the right bank of the Mur:
“ELEPHANT, R, 1f1. 10, L. 20, A. 35, B. 65, omnibus 30kr.; *OESTERREICH-
ISCHER Hor; *“GoLpNEs Ross; *FLoRIAN; *GOLDNER Lowe; DreEr RABEN.
— On the left bank: *ErzHERzoG JOHANN; *RIES; KAISERKRONE,
Gratz, the capital of Styria, picturesquely situated on both banks
of the Mur, which is crossed by four bridges, with 97,800 inhab.,
is one of the pleasantest provincial capitals of Austria. The
to Trieste. MARBURG. 8. Route. 53
fortifications have recently been removed, and their site is now
occupied by the handsome Ringstrasse and the Stadtpark.
The “Schlossberg, which rises about 400 ft. above the river, commands
one of the finest *Views in Austria, embracing the course of the Mur and
the populous valley, enclosed by picturesque mountains. On the S. side
of the hill rises the handsome Clock-Tower, and in front of the Swiss
house the Statue of Fieldmarshal Baron v. Welden (d. 1853), in bronze, by
Gasser. — The Gothic Cathedral dates from 1446. In front of the Landes-
Theater rises a bronze Statue of Emperor Francis J., designed by Marchesi;
in front of the Stadthaus is a Statue of Archduke John , by Pénninger,
Comp. Baedeker’s Eastern Alps.
The train proceeds through the broad valley of the Mur, at
some distance from the river. 144 M. Puntigam; on the hills to
the right rises the castle of Premstetten ; on the left, beyond (148 M. )
Kalsdorf, the castle of Weisseneck. Near (155 M. ) Wildon the
Kainach is crossed by a wooden bridge; on the height above rise
the ruins of Ober- Wildon; to the right are the vine-clad Sausal
Hills, 159 M. Lebring. To the right, near (162!/) M.) Leibnits, is
the archiepiscopal chateau of Seckau; farther on, the castle of
Labeck to the left. The train next crosses the Sulm by an iron chain-
bridge and approaches the Mur. 1671/, M. Ehrenhausen, with the
chateau of the same name, and the mausoleum of the princes of
Eggenberg on a wooded height to the right. 4170 M. Spielfeld,
with a handsome chateau of Count Attems.
The line quits the Mur and enters the mountainous district
which separates the Mur from the Drave. On the watershed a
tunnel, 700 yds. in length, and near (177 M.) Péssnitz a viaduct
of equal length are traversed.
182M. Marburg (880 ft. ; *Stadt Wien; *Stadt Meran ; Erzherzog
Johann ; Mohr ; *Rail. Restaurant) is an important town with 17,700
inhab., picturesquely situated on the Drave, and the junction of the
lines to Villach and Franzensfeste. To the S.W. extends the long vine
and forest-clad Bacher-Gebirge. A pleasing view is obtained from
the train as it crosses the Drave ; on the right bank are the extensive
locomotive works of the S. Railway. Traversing a broad plain, with
the slopes of the Bacher Mts. on the right, we next reach (188 M.)
Kranichsfeld, with an old chateau, and (1931/ M.) Pragerhof, the
junction for the line to Kanizsa anid Pesth. The train now enters a
region of lower hills. Beyond (198 M.) Windisch-Feistritz it tra-
verses two tunnels. 203 M. Péltschach, at the foot of the Wotsch
($218 ft.), on the N. slope of which are situated the picturesque
ruins of the Carthusian monastery of Seits.
The German language is now replaced by a Slavonic or Wend
dialect. The train winds through a sparsely peopled district. The
valleys are generally narrow and picturesque, the mountains richly
wooded, with occasional vineyards and fields of maize. Several
small stations and foundries are passed, and an extensive view of
the Sannthal, a populous and undulating plain, bounded by the
Sulzbach Alps, is at length suddenly disclosed.
——
D4 Route 8. LAIBACH. From Vienna
224 M. Cilli (787 ft.; *Erzherzog Johann; Kaiserkrone ; Lowe),
an ancient town of some importance, founded by Emp. Claudius
(Claudia Celleia), contains several Roman reliefs and memorial slabs
on the town-walls. On a wooded height in the vicinity stands the
ruined castle of Obercilli.
The train crosses the green Sann, and enters the narrow and
wooded valley of that stream. The most picturesque part of the
whole line is between Cilli and Sava. 2291/9 M. Markt Tiiffer,
with a ruined castle. 234M. Rémerbad (which memorial stones
prove to have been known to the Romans), also called Teplitza (i. e.
‘warm bath’), a beautifully situated watering-place.
240 M. Steinbriick (*Rail. Restaurant; 25 min. allowed for
express passengers to dine in going to Vienna), a thriving village
on the Save, or Saw, which here unites with the Sann, is the
Junction for the line to Agram and Karlstadt. The train now runs
for 1 hr. in the narrow valley of the Save, enclosed by lofty lime-
stone cliffs, which often barely afford space for the river and rail-
way. 245M. Hrastnigg ; 247 M. Trifail, with valuable coal-mines ;
250 M. Sagor, the first place in Carniola; 254 M. Sava.
The valley now expands. At Littai the Save is crossed. Scen-
ery still very picturesque. Stations Kressnitzs, Laase. At the
influx of the Laibach into the Save, the line quits the latter and
enters the valley of the former. The lofty mountain-range to the
N.W. is that of the Julian or Carnian Alps. 274 M. Salloch.
278 M. Laibach (940 ft.; *Stadt Wien ; *Elephant ; Europa; *Rail.
Restaurant), Slav. Ljubljana, on the Laibach, the capital of Car-
niola, with 26,300 inhab., is situated in an extensive plain en-
closed by mountains of various heights. An old Castle, now used
as a prison, rises above the town. The Cathedral, in the Italian
style, is decorated with stucco and frescoes of the 18th century.
The line now traverses the marshy Laibacher Moos by means
of an embankment, 13/, M. in length, and crosses the Laibach,
which becomes navigable here , although hardly 3 M. below the
point where it issues from the rocks near Oberlaibach. Near
(292 M.) Franzdorf the line crosses a lofty viaduct, and enters a
more mountainous district. — 302 M. Loitsch (1555 ft. ; Post or Stadt
Triest). About 15M. to the N.W. of Loitsch are the rich quicksilver
mines of Idria. — 308 M. Rakek, 31/, M. to the S.B. of which is
the Zirknitzer See, enclosed by lofty mountains. 318 M. Adelsberg
(1798 ft. ; Adelsberger Hof’; Krone), Slav. Post6éjna.
The celebrated *STaLActTiTE CavERNS, known in the middle ages and
accidentally re-discovered in 1816, are 3/, M. to the W. of Adelsberg. The
fees are fixed by tariff, and are somewhat high for a single visitor (from
3 fl. to 21 fl., according to the illumination), but less when shared by a
party. Brilliant illumination is necessary in order to produce a satisfactory
effect. A visit to the grotto occupies 2!/2-3 hrs., or if prolonged to the
Belvedere 4 hrs. Temperature 48° Fahr. Entrance 1 M. from the station.
Fuller particulars, see Baedeker’s Eastern Alps.
The train now traverses a dreary, inhospitable plain, strewn
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to Trieste. TRIESTE. 8. Route. 55
with blocks of limestone, called the Karst (Ital. Carso), extending
from Fiume to Gorizia (p. 281). The train (2 hrs. by express from
Adelsberg to Trieste) threads its way through this wilderness of
stones, crosses the Poik at (321 M.) Prestranek, and beyond
(326 M.) St. Peter (branch-line to ae passes through six
tunnels. Stations Lesece, Divazza (21/2 M. to the S.E. are the
grottoes of S. Canzian), Sesasiea (1627 ft.). The train descends
to (353 M.) Prosecco and (358 M.) Nabresina (Hotel Boswirth; Rail.
Restaurant), where the line to Vention by Udine diverges (R. 41)
and affords a magnificent *View of the blue Adriatic, Trieste, ef
the Istrian coast (views to the right). The slopes are planted with
olives, fig-trees, and trellised vines. — 363 M. Grignano, the last
station, is not above 11/5 M. below Prosecco in a straight direction.
On the Punta Grignana, which here projects into the sea, is situated
the handsome chateau of Miramar (p. 56; station). Before reaching
(370 M.) Trieste the train penctrates a tunnel, 906 ft. in length.
eae — Arrival. The handsome Raitway Station lies to the N.
of the town, about 1 M. from the Exchange. The Omnibuses of the prin-
cipal hotels meet the trains (80-40 kr.). Cabs into the town, with one
horse 50 kr., with two horses 1 fl. 20 kr. (between midnight and 6a.m.
80 kr. or 1 fl. 60 kr.); from the town to the station 40 or 80 kr. Small
articles of luggage free, trunk 10-15 kr. — Porter’s charge, up to 1101bs., 20 kr.
Hotels (all more or less of an Italian character). *HOTEL DE LA VILLE
(Pl. a; E, 4), Riva Carciotti 3, close to the harbour, R. 11/2-5 fl.; *H6rEL
DELORME, Via al Teatro 2, Rep ae the Exchange, R. 11), fl., L. 30, B. 30,
omn. 40 kr. Europa (Pl. c; C,3), Piazza della Caserma., 1/, M. from the
station, R. 1- {1/2 fl., with restaurant; AquiLta NERA, Via g. Spiridione 2,
with a eood restaurant (beer); ALBERGO Dantet (PI. e; RE, 4), Via S. Niccolo 2,
good restaurant; CrrvA DI VIENNA, Via S. Niccolo 443 H6reEL Garni, Piazza
Grande 5, with baths, R. 1-3 fl. — Sardone, Br anzino, Tonina, and Barbone
are good sea-fish. Prosecco is a half-effervescing wine like that of Asti
(p. 81); Refosco, a very dark sweet wine; the ordinary wines are Terrano
and Istriano, usually drunk with an admixture of water.
Cafés. 2 Litke, Degli Specchi, Piazza Grande; Vecchio Tommaso, on the
harbour, near the Hotel de la V ille; Tergesteo, ” Teatro, in the Tergesteo
(p. 56); Stella Polare; Caffé Adriatico, near the post-office, and others. —
Restaurants. *Puntigamer Bierhalle, Via S. Niccolo 5 (first floor): Stein-
Jelder Bierhalle, Piazza della Borsa 12; Berger, Via S. Niccolo 15; Cervo
@ Oro, Corsia Stadion 21; Belvedere, in the old town below the castle (reached
by the Vicolo S. Chiara), good view from the garden. — Osterie in the
Italian style: All?’ Adriatico, Via di Vienna 918; Bissaldi, Canal Grande.
Fiacres (‘Broughams’). Drive in the town with one horse or two
horses, 1/4 hr., 30 or 45 kr., 1/2 hr. 50 or 80, 3/4 hr. 75 kr. or 1 fl. 10 kr.,
1 hr. 1 fl. or 1 fl. 80 kr., each additional !/, hr. 20 or 30 kr., at night
(after 9p.m.) 10 kr. more per !/4 hr. See also above.
Tramway from the station along the harbour, past the Tergesteo, and
through the Corso and Corsia Stadion to the Giardino Pubblico, Boschetto,
and Campo Marzo; fare 5-10 kr.
Steamboats to Muggia, Capo d'Istria, and Pirano, several times daily ;
small vessels to Parenzo, Rovigno, and Pola, daily. Steamboats of the
Austrian Lloyd to Venice three times weekly, via Istria and Dalmatia;
to Fiume twice weekly, etc.
Post Office (Pl. 26; D,3), Via della Posta. — Telegraph Office, Via
della Dogana, No. 926.
Baths. Oesterreicher, Via Lazzaretto Vecchio 7, near the Artillery
Arsenal; Hétel de la Ville; Hétel Garni, etc.; warm baths at all these.
Turkish and vapour baths at the Bagni Rikl¢, on the road to the Boschetto,
“elie Seapets ante ae
56 Route 8. TRIESTE. Tergesteo.
— Sea+baths at the Bagno Maria, opposite the Hotel de la Ville; Bagno
Buchler. Ferry to the baths 3 kr. each way (a single person 6 kr.). —
Boats 1-11/2 fl. per hour.
Theatres. Teatro Comunale (Pl. 21), opposite the Tergesteo; Teatro
Filodrammatico (P1. 23), French and German plays sometimes performed ;
Armonia (P1. 24), dramas and operas; Politeama Rossetti, on the Acquedotto.
British Consul, Capt. Richard Burton. — American Consul, Mr. Thayer.
English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain.
Trieste, the Tergeste of the Romans, situated at the N.H.
extremity of the Adriatic, is the capital of Illyria and the most
important seaport of Austria. Pop. of the town proper 72,000, with
the suburban villages 133,000, or including the ‘commune’ and
garrison 144,500.
Trieste was made a free harbour by Emp. Charles VI. in 1719, and
may be termed the Hamburg of S. Germany. About 18,000 vessels, in-
cluding 1600 steamers, annually enter and clear the harbour. The yearly
value of its exports amounts to 117 million florins, that of the imports
to 145 million florins (14,500,000/.). Every European nation, and also the
United States, has a consul here. The population is very heterogeneous,
but the Italian element predominates in the city. About one-sixth of the
inhabitants are Slavs.
The Hargour is the centre of business. The quays have been
greatly extended within the last few years to meet the increasing
requirements of the shipping trade. The Lighthouse (Fanale Marit-
timo; Pl. G7) on the S.W. Molo Teresa is 106 ft. high.
The New Town, or Theresienstadt, adjoining the harbour, is laid
out in broad, well-paved streets with handsome houses, and is in-
tersected by the Canal Grande (P1. 5; D, 3, 4), 360yds. long
and 50 ft. wide, which enables vessels to discharge their cargoes
close to the warehouses. At the E. end of the Canal is the modern
church of S. Antonio Nuovo (Pl. 7; D, 3), in the Greek style.
Adjacent to the Hotel de la Ville towards the S. is the GrEEK
Cuurcu (S. Niccold dei Greci, Pl. 10; E, 4; divine service 6-8.30
a.m. and 5-7 p.m.), with its two green towers, sumptuously fitted
up. To the left of the Hotel de la Ville is the Palazzo Carciotti,
with a green dome.
A few paces from the harbour is the Molo 8. Carlo, which was
begun in 1751 on the site of an old Roman mole, Adjacent, in an
open space opposite the Teatro Comunale (P1. 21), is the *[zReEsTEO
(P1. 25; E, 4), an extensive pile of buildings, on the outside of which
are shops, and in the interior a glass gallery in the form of a cross,
where the Exchange (12-2 o’clock) is situated.
The Reading Room of the exchange is well stocked with newspapers
(visitors admitted). The principal part of the edifice is occupied by the
offices of the ‘Austrian Lloyd’, a steamboat-company established in 1833,
by which the postal service and passenger traffic between Austria and
the E. Mediterranean and India are undertaken.
Near the Tergesteo are the two busiest squares in Trieste, the
Piazza della Borsa and the Piazza Grande. In the Prazza DELLA
Borsa (Pl. E, 4), where the old Exchange is situated, stands a
Neptune group in marble, and a Statue of Leopold I., erected in
1660. — The Piazza Granps contains the new Municipio (Pl. 11;
Cathedral. TRIESTE. 8. Route. 57
EK, 4), containing the handsome hall of the provincial diet. In front
of the Municipio is the Maria Theresa Fountain, erected in 1751.
The Via pet Corso (PI.E, 3,4), the principal street of Trieste,
together with the two piazzas just mentioned, separates the new town
from the old. The latter, nestling round the hill on which the castle
rises, consists of narrow and steep streets, not passable for carriages.
To the left on the route to the cathedral and the castle is situated
the Jesurrs’ Cuurcy (S. Maria Maggiore, P1.9; F, 4), containing
a large modern fresco by Sante. To the W., a few paces higher up,
is the Piazzetta di Riccardo, named after Richard Ceur de Lion,
who is said to have been imprisoned here after his return from
Palestine. The Arco di Riccardo (P1. 2) is believed by some to
be a Roman triumphal arch, but probably belonged to an aqueduct.
We now ascend by the Via della Cattedrale towards the cathe-
dral. A little below the latter, on the right (custodian opposite,
No. 16; fee 30 kr.), is the entrance to the Musso LaPrmario
(Pl. 16; F, 3), an open-air collection of Roman antiquities in a
disused burial-ground.
The antiquities on the upper terrace were found at Trieste, those
on the lower at Aquileia. Winckelmann, the eminent German archzo-
logist, who was robbed and murdered by an Italian at the Locanda Grande
in 1768, is interred here, and a monument was erected to him in 1832.
To the right and left of this monument are fragments of the sarcophagus
of an Amazon. At the lower end of the burial-ground is the so-called
Glyptothek, containing an inscription from the pedestal of a statue to the
Decurio Fabius Severus of Trieste, and also the heads and fragments of
several other statues.
The CaTrepRaALE §. Grusto(Pl.8; F, 3) occupies the site of an
old Roman temple, part of the substructure and some of the columns
of which are still visible in the tower. The present building was
formed in the 14th cent. by the union of a basilica, a baptistery,
and a small Byzantine church of the 6th century. To the right and
left of the portal are six Roman tombstones (busts in relief). The
greater part of the interior has been defaced with whitewash. The
facade is adorned with three busts of bishops in bronze. The altar-
niches contain two ancient mosaics (7th cent.), that to the right
representing Christ with SS. Justus and Servatius, that to the left
Mary with the archangels Michael and Gabriel; below, the Apostles.
Some of the capitals are antique, others Romanesque.
Fouché, Duc d’Otranto, the powerful minister of police of
Napoleon I., died at Trieste in 1820, and was interred on the Ter-
race in front of the church. Fine view thence of the town and sea.
The hill above the cathedral is crowned by the Castle (Pl. F, 3),
originally built in 1680 and frequently restored.
In the Prazza Lrpsta, which is embellished with pleasure-
grounds, is the Nautical Academy (Pl. 1; G, 5), containing on
the second floor the Ferdinand Maximilian Museum, the chief
attraction of which is a complete collection of the fauna of the
Adriatic (adm. Sun., Wed., and Sat., 11-1). In the opposite court
58 Route 8. TRIESTE.
(2nd-floor) is the Municipal Musewm, containing the smaller anti-
quities (adm. daily 9-1; fee 30 kr.)
At the corner of the Via della Sanita (No. 2) and the Piazza
Giuseppina standsthe sumptuously furnished PaLazzo REvonTELLA
(Pl. G, 6), built in 1857 from the plans of Hitzig of Berlin, and
bequeathed to the town along with its valuable contents of paintings
and sculptures by Baron Revoltella (adm. daily, 11-2). The
principal facade of the edifice is turned towards the Prazza GiusEP-
PINA, which is embellished with a *Monument to Emperor Mazi-
milian of Mexico (d. 1867), in bronze, designed by Schilling, and
erected in 1875. The unfortunate prince, who was a rear-admiral
in the Austrian navy, generally resided at Trieste before he under-
took his ill-starred expedition to Mexico.
The Passeggio di S. Andrea, a much frequented avenue 3 M. in length,
skirting the coast and commanding a succession of beautiful views, leads
on the E. side of the town, past the Villa Murat, the Lloyd Arsenal, and
the Gas-Works, to Servola. The extensive *Wharves of the Lloyd Co.,
opposite Servola (4!/2 M.), may be visited daily, except holidays, Sundays,
and between 11 and 1 o’clock, by permission obtained at the offices in
the Tergesteo (guide 1/2-1 fl.). — On the road to Zaule, famous for its
oyster-beds, are the handsome Cemeteries.
Another favourite place of resort is the Boschetto, to the E. of the
town, which is most easily reached by the tramway traversing the Via
del Corso, Piazza della Legna, and Corsia Stadion, and passing the shady
Giardino Pubblico (P1. C, G,1; fare 10 kr.). In the Boschetto is a large
brewery. A shady road ascends hence in 30-40 min. to the Villa Ferdi-
nandea (Rest. Cacciatore), situated upon a small plateau 750 ft. above
the sea. Adjacent is the Villa Revoltella, now belonging to the town, with
a park and chapel, commanding a charming view of the town and the sea.
A very pleasant excursion (railway station, see p. 55; boat 3 fl., one-
horse carr. 2 fl., two-horse 3 fl.) may be made to the chateau of *Miramar,
formerly the property of Emp. Maximilian of Mexico (see above), charm-
ingly situated to the N.W. near Grignano, and commanding a fine view
of Trieste, the sea, and the coast. The park is open to the public daily.
The sumptuously furnished chateau is shown to visitors (Sundays and
holidays excepted) on sending their cards to the steward. To the right
of the entrance to the garden is a small ‘Museum’ of Greek and Egyptian
antiquities. — Barcola (restaurant) is a favourite resort, halfway between
Trieste and the chateau.
Other excursions may be made to *Optschina (31/2 M.; H6étel-Pension
all’ Obelisco), commanding a beautiful view of the town and the sea; Servola
(see above); the grotto of Corniale (800 ft. long), 9 M. to the E.; to Lipizza
(imp erial stables), etc. — A very interesting excursion, occupying one day
(starting early in the morning), is by steamer (p. 55) to Muggia; over the
hill on foot (beautiful view from the top) to Oltre (1 hr.), thence by boat
(15 kr.) to Capo d@Istria (Cittaé diTrieste; Radetzky; Caffe in the principal
Piazza). The town itself, situated on an island, with 7500 inhab., is the
Justinopolis of the Romans, and is connected with the mainland by a
stone embankment. The chief objects of interest are the Cathedral, the
Palazzo Pubblico, occupying the site of a temple of Cybele, and the ex-
tensive salt-works. We now proceed by the road on the shore, passing
Semedella, to (8 M.) Isola (good Refosco wine), and (6M. farther) Pirano,
and return to Trieste by steamer in the evening. — About 2 M. from
Pirano lies the sea-bathing place of S. Lorenzo, established in 1864, a
handsome building in an extensive park.
From Trieste to Venice, see R. 41; to Pola, Fiume, and Dal-
matia, see Baedeker’s Eastern Alps.
II. Piedmont.
Oe Burin’ .-” Bs GCRUM SRA to
1. The Saperes,
2. From Turin to Torre Pellice ‘by Pi enerol
10. From Turin to Aosta
44. From Turin to Milan by Novara
1. From Santhia to Biella f
2. From Vercelli to Alessandria
3. From Novara to Gozzano
12. From Arona to Genoa .. . ..
From Milan to Vigevano and Mortara uiGanon) -
13. From Turin to Piacenza by Alessandria .... .
From Tortona to Novi
14. From Turin to Genoa . UF Te Wee aan
a. Via Alessandria .. rat fig ie dl
1. From Asti to Mortara (Milan)
2. From Alessandria to Savona eae
Me eT A ANC SAVOUR. wits. dcats esc uees
1. Carignano
Ji From Cavallermaggiore ‘to " Alessandria ;
3. From Carrt to Mondov3. Certosa di Val Pésio .
This district ‘at the foot of the mountains’, enclosed on three sides
by the Alps and Apennines, and separated from Lombardy by the Ticino,
embraces, according to the present division, the provinces of Turin, No-
vara, Cuneo, and Alessandria, with 3,107, 026 inhab., and an area of about
11,400 sq. M. It consists of lowlands flanking the banks of the Po and
its tributaries, which yield rice and maize, and of highlands where ex-
cellent wine and silk are produced, and lastly of a bleaker mountain
region of forests and pastures. The earliest INHABITANTS were Celtic and
Ligurian tribes, who were but slowly influenced by Roman culture; and
it was not till the reign of Augustus that the subjugation of the higher
valleys was completed. The Dratxct of the people still retains traces of
their ancient affinity with the French; thus, piewve, instead of the Italian
piovere, om for uwomo, coeur for cuore, sita for citta, rason for ragione,
plassa for piazza. This patois is universally spoken, even by the higher
classes, and is unintelligible to strangers. Throughout Piedmont the
traveller will find that French will carry him quite as far as Italian.
The History of the country is closely interwoven with that of its
dynasty. The House of Savoy (or Casa Sabauda), a family of German
origin, professing even to trace their descent from the Saxon Duke
Wittekind, the opponent of Charlemagne, first became conspicuous among
the nobles of Upper Burgundy about the year 1000. Humbert J. (d. about
1050) is generally regarded as the founder of the dynasty. In 1101 his
descendants were created imperial counts of Sav oy by Henry IV., and by
judiciously espousing the cause of the pope and the emperor alternately,
they gradually succeeded in extending their supremacy over Turin, Aosta,
Susa, Ivrea, and Nice. In consequence of a law passed by Amadeus Ves
the Great, in 13867, which settled the succession on the male line in the order
of primogeniture, and constituted Chambéry the seat of government, the
subdivisions of the country were at length united. In 1416, during the
reign of Amadeus VIIJ., the counts became Duxes of Savoy. Situated
between the two great medieval powers of France on one side, and
Austria and Spain on the other, the princes of Savoy frequently changed
60 Route 9. TURIN.
sides, and although sometimes overtaken by terrible disasters, they con-
trived to maintain, and even to extend their territory. At one period
the greater part of the Duchy was annexed to France, but HLmmanuel
Philibert (‘Testa di Ferro’, 1553-80) restored it to its original extent, being,
as regards internal organisation also, its second founder. Under his son
Charles Emmanuel I. (1580-1630) the Duchy again became dependent on
France. From the sons of this prince is descended the elder branch of
the family, which became extinct in 1831, and the younger Carignano
line, which succeeded to the throne in the person of Carlo Alberto. The
following dukes were Vittorio Amadeo J. (1630-37), Francesco Giacinto
(1637-38), Carlo Emmanuele II. (1638-75), and Vittorio Amadeo II. (1675-
1730). The last of these, having boldly allied himself with Austria dur-
ing the Spanish War of Succession, managed to throw off the French
suzerainty (1703); he obtained Sicily as his reward, which island, however,
he was afterwards obliged to exchange for Sardinia (1720), and in 1713
assumed the title of Kine, which was subsequently coupled with the name
of the latter island. His successors were Carlo Emmanuele III. (1780-73),
and Vittorio Amadeo III, (1773-96). After the battle of Turin (p. 73) the
Piedmontese princes directed their attention to Prussia, which served as
a model for the organisation of their kingdom. In both countries the
military and feudal element preponderated, and both were obliged to
succumb to the new powers evolved by the French revolution. Carlo
Emmanuele IV. (1796-1802) was deprived of all his continental possessions
by the French in 1798, and restricted to the island of Sardinia, which
was protected by the English fleet. Vittorio Emmanuele J. (1802-21) was at
length reinstated in his dominions, with the addition of Genoa, by the
Congress of Vienna. The Napoleonic period had swept away the feudal
institutions of Piedmont, and had bequeathed in their stead many of the
benefits of modern legislation, and high military renown. It is therefore
intelligible that the clerical reaction, which set in with the king’s return,
gave rise to an insurrection which caused the king to abdicate, and
which had to be quelled by Austrian troops. His brother Carlo Felice
(1821-31) adhered faithfully to Jesuitical principles, and lived on the
whole in accordance with his motto, ‘Non sono re per essere seccato’.
With him the older line of the House of Savoy became extinct, and was
succeeded by the collateral line of Carignano (p. 83; 27th April, 1831).
Carlo Alberto (b. 1798), who had been educated at a French military
school, and had headed the insurrection of 1821, was protected by France
and Russia against the attempts of Austria to deprive him of his claims
to the throne. His own experiences, and the force of circumstances,
rendered him an implacable enemy of Austria. With him began the
national development of Piedmont, although his efforts were not always
consistent. The liberals called him the ‘Re Tentenna’ (the vacillating),
while in 1843 he himself described his position as being ‘between the
daggers of the Carbonari and the chocolate of the Jesuits’. On 6th
Jan. 1848 Count Cavour made the first public demand for the establish-
ment of a constitution, and on the 7th Feb. the king, half in despair,
yielded to the popular desires. The insurrection in Lombardy at length
induced him to become the champion of national independence, and to
give vent to his old enmity against Austria (23rd March), but one year
later his career terminated with his defeat at Novara (23rd March, 1849).
He then abdicated and retired to Oporto, where he died in a few months
(26th July). It was reserved for his son Vittorio Emmanuele II. (b. 1820,
d. 9th Jan. 1878) finally to give effect to the national wishes of Italy.
The present king is Umberto J. (b. 14th Mar., 1844).
9. Turin, Ital. Torzno.
Arrival. The principal railway-station at Turin is the Stazione Cen-
trale, or Porta Nuova (Pl. E, 4, 5), in the Piazza Carlo Felice, at the
end of the Via Roma, a handsome edifice with waiting-rooms adorned
with frescoes, and the terminus of all the lines. — Travellers to Milan
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14.Gran Madre di Dio .
15.5. Massimo
16.8. Felippo .
17. S. Spirito
18.Tempio Valdese .
Foro frumento .
Galleria dell' Industria
Subalpina
Istituto Tecnico
Mercato del Vino.
Monumenti.
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27. Carlo Alberto .
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53. Rossa .
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may take the train at the Stazione Porta Susa (Pl. C, 3, 4), at the end
of the Via della Cernaia, the first stopping-place of all the trains of the
Novara-Milan line (omnibuses and carriages meet every train), or at the
Stazione Succursale, on the left bank of the Dora. — Station of the branch
line to Rivoli in the Piazza dello Statuto (PI). C, 2); of that to Cirie-Lanzo
between the Piazza Emmanuele Filiberto and the Ponte Mosca (PI. B, 1).
Hotels. *Europa (Pl. a; E, 2), Piazza Castello 19; *Granp HOTEL pE
TuRIN (Pl. b; E, 4,5), opposite the central station; *Hé6TEL pr LA LIGURIE
(Pl. ¢; F, 4), Via Carlo Alberto; *Hérrn Feper (Pl. d; F, 3), Via S.
Francesco di Paola 8; HéTeELt Tromperta (Pl. e; E, 3), Via Roma 29, Piazza
8. Carlo; Granp Hoéren p’ANGLETERRE (Pl. f; E, 38, 4), Via Roma 31, and
Via Cavour 2. All these are of the first class, with similar charges: R.
from 21/2, B. 11/2-2, D. generally at 5 o'clock 4-5, L. 3/y-1, A. 1, omnibus
1-11/2fr. — The following are more in the Italian style, and have trattorie
connected with them: ALBERGO CENTRALE (Pl. g; E, 2), Via delle Finanze,
R. 2, D. 4, B. 13|4, L. 1, A. 3/4 fr.; Bonne Femme (Pl. h; E, 2), Via Bar-
HoteL Suisse (Pl.i;
Sacchi 2, near the central station, R. from 2!/2, B. 11/4, D. with wine
Al/o, L. 3/4, A. 3/4 fr.; Caccta Reate (Pl. k; E, 2), Piazza Castello 18;
HOTEL DE FRANCE ET DE LA CoNncoRDE (PI. ts
CoronE (PI. m; E, 2), Via S. Tommaso 13; Dogana Veccuta (Pl. n; E
Via Corte @Appello 4, near the Palazzo di Citta, R. 11/2, L. 1/2 fr.
omnibus 60 c., well spoken of; VILLE DE BoLoene, Corso Principe Ame-
deo. — The Grissini, a kind of bread in long, thin, and crisp sticks,
form a speciality of the place.
baroux, these two
and Grignolino.
Restaurants. Cambio, Piazza Carignano 2, much frequented in the
morning, best Italian wines; Paris, Via di Po 21; Antica Verna, Via
Roma 13; Trattoria di Piazza S. Carlo, D. with wine 3 fr., in a room on
the upper floor; Meridiana, Galleria Geisser, Via S. Teresa 6 (Vienna beer) ;
Due Indie, Via Guasco 4; in the last two Italian, in the others French
cuisine. Good Restaurant
Margherita, see p. 72. — Good Piedmontese Wine (‘Barbera’) at the Trattoria
Ooccagna (‘Barolo’), Via Dora Grossa.
Piazza 8. Carlo 2;
; “Romano, by the
@ Oriente, Via Lagrange, and at the
Cafés. *Café de Paris, Via di Po 21; *S. Carlo
Nazionale, Via di Po 20; Madera, Via Lagrange 1
Galleria dell’ Industria Subalpina, in the Piazza Castello (café chantant in
the evening); Caffe della Borsa, Via Roma 25; Liguria, Corso del Re, near
the station. — Confectioners. Bass, Baratti d& Milano, both in the Piazza
At the above-mentioned *Caffe Romano; Dreher,
Piazza Carignano (Vienna beer); Lumpp, at the corner of Via dell’ Ar-
senale and Via Alfieri; in the Birraria, Via di Dora Grossa 5; in the
Galleria del? Industria Subalpina (p. 63).
Cabs, or Cittadine, stand in most of the piazzas and in the streets
Per drive (corsa) 1 fr., at night (12-6 a.m.)
1 fr. 20 c.; first 1/2 hr. 1 fr., first hour (ora) 1 fr. 50 c., each following
I/, hr. 75 c., at night 11/2, 2, and 1 fr.; each trunk 20 c. — Two-horse
carriage 50 c. more in each case.
Tramways. From the Prazza CasteLuo (Pl. E, F, 2); 1. By the Via
Lagrange to the Barriera di Nizza (Pl. F, 6); 2. To the Piazza Vittorio
Emmanuele, across the bridge over the Po, and to the right to the Barriera
di Piacenza (Pl. H, 5), and on to Moncalieri; 3.
the last route and then to the left to the Barriera di Casale (Pl. H, 2)
By the Via Garibaldi or Dora Grossa
to S. Donato and Martinetto (Pl. A, 2); 5. By the Via Palazzo della Citta,
the Piazza Milano, and the Ponte Mosca to the Barvriera di Lanzo; 6. By
the Via Roma, the Piazza S. Carlo, and the Stazione Centrale to the Corso
Ré Umberto; 7. By the Via Accademia delle Scienze, Piazza Carlo Alberto,
Piazza Bodoni, and Via Borgonuovo to the Botanic Garden and Via Nizza
(in connection with No. 6). — From the Piazza Virror1io EMMANUELE
(P1. G, 3): 1. By the Via Bava, Corso Maurizio, and Corso Regina Mar-
gherita to the Piazza dello Statuto (Pl. C, 2); 2. By
Via Maria Vittoria to the Piazza dello Statuto; 3. By the Via Bonafous,
Castello, S. side. — Beer.
leading out of the Via di Po.
and Madonna del Pilone-Gassino; 4.
well spoken of. E, 4), Via
3), Via di Po 20; Tre
Best wines: Barbéra, Bardlo, Nebiolo,
Across the bridge as in
the Via Plana and
62 Route 9. TURIN. Theatres.
Corso Lungo Po, and Corso Vitt. Emmanuele to the Piazza Solferino. —
From the Piazza DELLO StatutTo (Pl. C, 2) to Yesoriera and Rivoli. —
From Via Saccui (Pl. E, 5): 1. To Massano and on to Giaveno; 2. To
Villa Stupinigi and Vinovo. — From the Prazza N1zza to Carignano (p. 83)
and Carmagnola (p. 83), and to Saluzzo (p. 118). — From the Prazza
EMMANUELE FILIBERTO (Pl. E, 1): 1. By the Corso Regina Margherita,
Corso Maurizio, Via Rossini, Piazza Carlo Emmanuele and Piazza Mad.
Cristina to the Corso del Valentino (Pl. F, 5); 2. By the Corso Reg. Mar-
gherita, Piazza Savoia, Piazza Solferino, Via Oporto, and Via S. Secondo
to the Via Sommeilter.
Consuls. British, Via di 8. Filippo 20. American, Via de’ Fiori 19.
Post Office, Via d’Angennes 10. Telegraph Office, Via d’Angennes 8.
Booksellers. Loescher, Via di Po 19, with circulating library of Eng-
lish, French, German, and other books; Casanova, Via Accademia delle
Scienze. — Fine Arts Warehouse: Cerruti, Galleria Subalpina (p. 63).
Military Music in the Piazza Castello every afternoon; on Sundays
12-2, in summer in the Giardino Reale, in winter in the Piazza Vittorio
Emmanuele; in the Piazza d’Armi in summer during the Corso. — The
chief promenades are the avenues of the Piazza d’Armi.
Baths. Via Provvidenza 40; Bagni di S. Carlo, Via Roma 22; Bagni
di S. Giuseppe, Via S. Teresa 21; Bagni Cavour, Via Lagrange 22. Bath
11/,-11/2fr., with fee of 20c. — Swimming Bath (scuola di nuoto) above the
old bridge over the Po (Pl. G, 3; 60c.).
Theatres. Teatro Regio (Pl. 52), in the Piazza Castello, for operas
and ballets, with seats for 2500, generally open during Lent and the Car-
nival only (admission 3fr., reserved seats 6fr.); Carignano (Pl. 49), in the
Piazza of that name, for Italian comedies, open the greater part of the
year; D’Angennes (Pl. 48), Via Borgo Nuovo, Rossini (P1. 53), Via di Po 24,
these two for plays in the Piedmontese dialect; Scribe (Pl. 54), Via Zecca
29, French, etc.
English Church Service performed in a chapel at the back of the
Tempio Valdese (PI. 18).
Principal Attractions: Armoury (p. 64), Picture Gallery (p. 66) and
Museum of Antiquities (p. 65), Museo Civico (p. 71), monuments in the
cathedral (p. 68), view from the Capuchin monastery (p. 72).
Turin (785 ft.), the Roman Augusta Taurinorum, founded by
the Taurini, a Ligurian tribe, destroyed by Hannibal B.C. 218,
and subsequently re-erected, was the capital of the County of
Piedmont in the middle ages, and in 1418 became subject to the
Dukes of Savoy, who frequently resided here. From 1859 to
1865 it was the capital of Italy and residence of the king. Turin,
the seat of a university and of a military academy, and the head-
quarters of the 1st Italian Corps d’Armée, is situated in an ex-
tensive plain on the Po, which receives the waters of the Dora
Riparia below the city. The plain of the Po is bounded on the
W. by the Graian and Cottian Alps, and on the E. by a range
of hills rising on the right bank, opposite the city (hill of the Ca-
puchins, p. 72; Superga, p. 73). Turin has always been the focus
of the national struggles for unity, and by the industry and per-
severance of its citizens has recovered from the severe losses conse-
quent on the removal of the court. The population in 1882, in-
cluding surrounding villages, was 252,900, of the town itself about
220,000 (in 1377, 4,200; in 1631, 36,447; in 1799, 80,752; and
in 1848, 130,849).
Turin is conspicuous among the principal cities of Italy for the re-
gularity of its construction. Its plan presents rectangular blocks of houses
Palazzo Madama. TURIN. 9. Route. 63
(Jsole), long, broad, straight streets (formerly called Contrade, now Vie),
wide squares, and numerous gardens. Its history explains this. The
plan of the old town, with slight variations, is ascertained to be the same
as that of the colony founded by the Emperor Augustus. It formed a rec-
tangle of 1370 ft. in length, and 2210 ft. in breadth, and is now inter-
sected by the Via di Dora Grossa, which runs between the Piazza Castello
and the Via della Consolata. It had four principal gates, of which the
Porta Palatina, to the N. (in the Palazzo delle Torri, Pl. 44) still exists.
The whole town was comprised within this circumference during the middle
ages, until in the 17th cent., under the princes of Savoy, a systematic
extension of the city was begun in accordance with the original plan.
The fortifications constructed by Francis I. in 1536, and finally the siege
of 1706 cleared away most of the old buildings, and gave the town its
present appearance. The fortifications were demolished by the French
when in possession of the city and environs in 1801, and the citadel had
to give place to the railway in 1807.
The spacious Piazza CastEiuo (Pl. E, F, 2), with the Royal
Palace, forms the centre of the town. From this point the busiest
streets diverge: — the Via koma, the Via di Dora Grossa (or Via
Garibaldi), and the broad and handsome Via pi Po, leading to the
bridge over the Po, and flanked by arcades (Portici), containing
shops, the handsomest of which are near the Piazza Castello (those
in the direction of the Po, towards the Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele,
being inferior). These arcades present a busy and brilliant scene
in the evening, when lighted by gas. The University in the Via
di Po, see p. (0. — In the 8.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the
new Galleria dell’ Industria Subalpina, containing cafés, a large
birraria, and concert rooms, which deserves a visit, though inferior
to the arcade at Milan. The other end of the arcade is in the Piazza
Carlo Alberto (p. 65).
The Palazzo Madama (P1.39;-E, 2), the ancient castle, a lofty
and cumbrous pile in the centre of the Piazza Castello, is the only
medieval structure of which Turin boasts, and was erected by
William of Monferrat, when master of the town in the latter half of
the 13th century. It owes its present name to the mother of King
Victor Amadeus II., who as Dowager Duchess (‘Madama Reale’)
occupied the building , and embellished it in 1718 by the addition
of a handsome double flight of steps and the facade with marble
columns on the W. side, from a design by Juvara. The two original
towers on the E. side are still standing; two others on the W. side,
one of which contains an observatory, are concealed by the facade.
Down to 1865 the Palazzo Madama was the seat of the Italian sen-
ate, and it now contains several institutions. — In front of the
Palace stands a Monument to the Sardinian Army (Pl. 24) by Vine.
Vela, erected by the Milanese in 1859.
On the N. side of the Piazza Castello is situated the Palazzo
Reale, or Royal Palace (P1. 43; E, 2), begun in 1660, a plain edi-
fice of brick, sumptuously fitted up in the interior. The palace-
yard is separated from the Piazza by a gate, the pillars of which are
decorated with two groups in bronze of Castor and Pollux, designed
by Abbondio Sangiorgio in 1842. To the left in the hall of the pa-
aa
64 Route 9. TURIN. Palace Garden.
lace, to which the public are admitted, in a niche near the stair-
case, is the ‘Cavallo di Marmo’, an equestrian statue of Duke
Victor Amadeus I. (d. 1637); the statue is of bronze, the horse in
marble; below the latter are two slaves. The steps have recently
been magnificently embellished; among tbe statues those of Em-
manuel Philibert, by Varni, and Carlo Alberto, by Vela, deserve
special notice. The royal apartments are generally accessible in the
absence of the king.
The long S.E. wing of the edifice (Galleria Beaumont) contains
the *Royan Armoury (Armeria Reale; Pl. 4; E, 2; entered from
the arcade, first door to the right when approached from the palace),
opposite and to the N.E. of the Palazzo Madama. It is open to the
public on Sundays, 11-3 o’clock, and daily at the same hours by
tickets (obtained between 11 and 3 o’clock at the office of the secre-
tary of the Armoury, on the ground-floor). The collection is very
choice and in admirable order (custodian !/2-1 fr.).
In the centre of Room I. are a bronze statuette of Napoleon L., the
sword he wore at the battle of Marengo, a quadrant he used when a
young officer, two French regimental eagles, and two kettle-drums cap-
tured at the battle of Turin in 1706. Numerous models of modern
weapons; in a cabinet near the window, Prussian helmets; then Japanese
and Indian weapons and armour. A cabinet on the right contains gifts
presented to Victor Emmanuel by Italian towns, a sword presented by Rome
in 1859, a gilded wreath of laurel by Turin 1860, and a sword in 1865,
on the occasion of the Dante Festival; in the centre, the favourite horse
of Charles Albert; Piedmontese flags from the wars of 1848-49 over the
cabinets. The long Hatt contains, on the right, a gigantic suit of armour
worn at the Battle of Pavia by an equerry of Francis I. of France; be-
yond it, in front of the chimney-piece, a choice and very valuable collec-
tion of 32 battle-axes, a sword executed by Benvenuto Cellini(?), and some
finely ornamented helmets of the 15th and 16th centuries. Under glass,
a *Shield by Benvenuto Cellini (?), embossed, and inlaid with gilding, re-
presenting scenes from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. The finest
suits of armour are those of the Brescian family Martinengo, three on
the left and one on the right. Adjacent is an ancient rostrum in the form
of a boar’s head, found in the harbour at Genua. At the end of the hall
are the armour of Prince Eugene, the saddle of Emp. Charles V. in red
velvet, and the beautiful armour of Duke Emmanuel Philibert. On the
right, under glass, we observe the sword of St. Maurice, the sabre of
Tippoo Sahib, etc. In the cabinet A are Roman weapons, helmets, and
the eagle of a legion, In the cabinet F, at the top, the sword of the Im-
perial General Johann v. Werth (d. 1652), bearing a German inscription
in verse.
On the floor below is the PrivaTE LIBRARY OF VICTOR EMMANUEL (shown
daily 9-4), in which geographical, historical, and genealogical works are
particularly well represented; many of them are embellished with minia-
tures of the 15th and 16th centuries. It also contains a valuable col-
lection of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci (portrait of himself), Fra Barto-
lommeo, and other masters. — A short staircase ascends hence to the
valuable Collection of Coins, trinkets, mosaics, carved ivory, etc., which
occupies a small room adjoining the Armoury.
The Palace Garden ( Giardino Reale; Pl. E, F,2), entered from
the arcade opposite the Palazzo Madama, is open daily in summer
(1st May to 1st Oct.) 14-3, on Sundays and festivals 11-2; mil-
itary music, see p. 62. Fine view of the Superga. Connected with
the Giardino Reale is a well-stocked Zoological Garden (open to
Academy. TURIN. 9. Route, 65
the public Mon. and Thurs.; to strangers daily on application
at the palace). — The Cathedral, which adjoins the palace on the
W., see p. 68.
In the PrazzA CARIGNANO, near the Piazza Castello, to the S.,
rises the Palazzo Carignano (PI. 36; I, 3), with its curious brick
ornamentation, erected by Guarini in 1680. The Sardinian Cham-
ber of Deputies met here from 1848 to 1860, and the Italian Par-
liament from 1860 to 1865. The handsome facade at the back,
towards the Piazza Carlo Alberto, was built in 1871 from the de-
signs of Bollati and Ferri.
The rooms used by the parliament are now devoted to the NATURAL
History Cotiections formerly in the Academy (open to the public every
week-day 10-4, in winter 1-3). The collection is divided into the Zoolo-
gical and Comparative Anatomy Section and the Palaeontological, Geological,
and Mineralogical Section. The former contains a fine array of birds
and insects, and a collection of the vertebrates of Italy arranged in a
separate gallery. The paleontological division contains a fine collection
of fossil mollusca from the tertiary formations, and the skeletons of a
sigantic armadillo (Glyptodon Clavipes) from Rio de la Plata, a Tetra-
lophodon Avernensis, a Megatherium Cuvieri, and other antediluvian animals,
In the Piazza Carignano, in front of the palace, stands the
finely-executed marble statue of the philosopher and patriot Gio-
berti (Pl. 29), by Albertoni, erected in 1859.
The Piazza Canto ALBERto (E. side of the Palazzo Carignano)
is embellished with a bronze monument of King Charles Albert
(Pl. 27), designed by Marochetti, and cast in London. The pedestal
stands on four steps of Scottish granite; at the corners below
are four colossal statues of Sardinian soldiers; above them are four
allegorical female figures, representing Martyrdom, Freedom,
Justice, and Independence. The Piazza Carlo Alberto is connected
with the Piazza Castello by the Galleria Subalpina (p. 63).
In the vicinity, at the corner of the Piazza Carignano and the
Via dell’ Accademia No. 4, is the Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle
Scienze (PI. 3; E, 3), containing a picture-gallery and museums
of natural history and antiquities. The building, formerly the
Jesuit College, was erected by Guarini in 1678, To the right on
the Grounp-F oor are the Egyptian, Roman, and Greek sculp-
tures; on the First Foor, the smaller antiquities; on the Ssconp
Foor (98 steps), the picture-gallery. These collections are open
daily 9-4 (the Antiquities in winter 10-4), adm. 4 fr.; on Sun.
11-3, gratis.
Museum of Antiquities (Museo Egizio e di Antichita Greco-Romane). —
Haut I. contains large Egyptian sphynxes, figures of idols and kings, sarco-
phagi, reliefs. The finest figures are the colossal statue of Seti II., in
red sandstone; the red granite statue of Amenophis II.; a smaller statue
of the same monarch in black granite; a small white figure of Amosis;
and the black *Statue of Ramses II. (Sesostris), above which is an in-
scription in honour of the celebrated Parisian Egyptologist Champollion.
Hatt Il.: Egyptian statues and late Greek works found in Egypt; on the
right a good torso, on the left four figures placed round a column, bearing
the name of Protys the sculptor. Minerva, over life-size. In the centre of
the room *Mosaics found at Stampacci in Sardinia, representing Orpheus
BarEDEKER. Italy I. 6th Edit. is)
?
66 Route 9. TURIN. Picture Gallery.
with his lyre, and a lion, goat, and ass, probably the animals listening to
him. — We now enter the — I. GaLLery to the left. Statues of Jupiter,
Marsyas and Olympus, Youth (restored as Mercury), Hercules killing the
snakes, Cupid asleep, Amazon (in green basalt; freely restored). Inscriptions.
The SmMaLt ANTIQUITIES are on the First Floor, and consist of mum-
mies, papyrus writings, scarabees, trinkets, vases, and porcelain statu-
ettes and terracottas, many of which are Graeco-Roman. In the centre of
the second room is the formerly celebrated Tabula Isiaca, found in the
pontificate of Pope Paul III. (d. 1549) in the Villa Caffarelli at Rome, a
tablet of bronze with hieroglyphics and figures partially inlaid with
silver. Attempts to decipher the characters elicited the most profound
and erudite explanations and conjectures from the savants of three cen-
turies, but it has been recently proved that the tablet is spurious, having
been manufactured at Rome in the reign of Hadrian. The celebrated
papyrus with fragments of the annals of Manetho (a list of the kings of
Egypt down to the 19th dynasty), discovered by Champollion, and the
‘Book of the Dead’, edited by Lepsius, are also preserved here. — We
now turn to the left into a room containing antiquities from Cyprus, at
the door of which are two Assyrian reliefs, the heads of a king and a
eunuch.
Beyond, on the left, is a room devoted to Roman Sculptures: in
the middle, heads of poets and philosophers; along the window- wall,
busts of emperors; in the corner to the left, colossal head of a goddess,
found at Alba in 1839, fine *Head of Venus (bust modern), head of
Antinous, etc. On the right are the Greeco-Etruscan Vases and Terra-
cottas (“Head of Medusa, Mercury and a youth, Olympus from the group
already mentioned, graceful dancing nymphs; by the window, early Ital-
ian vessels), and the Bronzes, including a tripod and a *Silenus, found
near Turin, head of Caligula, and *Minerva, found in the Versa near
Stradella in 1829. A few silver reliefs are also exhibited here. — The
room in the middle contains terracottas and glass.
The *Picture Gallery (Pinacoteca), on the second floor, con-
sists of 15 rooms containing upwards of 500 paintings. This col-
lection, being of recent date, cannot boast of a very distinct
character like most of the other Italian galleries; but it affords the
traveller an excellent opportunity of becoming better acquainted
with tle works of Gaudenzio Ferrari (1484-1549), in which we
can distinctly trace Leonardo’s inspiration, coupled with the in-
fluence of the Umbrian school (Nos. 49 and 54). The early Pied-
montese painter, Macrino d’ Alba (1460-1510), and his pupil De-
ferrari da Chivasso may also be studied here. Sodoma (Giovanni
Antonio Bazzi, 1480-1549), who originally belonged to the Lom-
bard school, is well represented by three pictures. Lorenzo di
Credi’s (1459-1537) Madonna, No. 356, of this master’s best period,
shows that he was influenced by Leonardo. Numerous and impor-
tant works of the old Netherlandish school, such as: 359. Petrus
Cristus; 358. Memling; 340. Sketch by Rubens; 338, 351, 363,
384. by Van Dyck. (Catalogue 4 fr. 25 c.).
I. Room. Princes of the House of Savoy and battle-pieces. Beginning
on the right: ten of the battles fought by Prince Eugene, by Hughten-
burg; thirteen portraits of members of the House of Savoy; 28. Horace
Vernet, King Charles Albert; 29, 31. Clowet; 26, 30. Van Dyck; 4. Van
Schuppen, Prince Eugene on horseback.
II. Room: Defendente Deferrari, Madonna with SS. George and Bar-
bara and Charles III. of Savoy (ancient frame); *49. Gaud. Ferrari, St.
Peter and donor; 50. Sodoma, Holy Family; 50 bis. Macrino d@ Alba, Ma-
donna and saints (1498); Gaudenzio Ferrari, 52. Madonna and St. Elisa-
Picture Gallery. TURIN. 9. Route. 67
beth, 53. God the Father, *54. Descent from the Cross; *55. Sodoma, Ma-
donna and saints; Gaud. Ferrari, 57. Joachim driven from the Temple,
58. Visitation; unnumbered, Barnaba da Modena, Madonna (1370).
III. Room: Unimportant works. — IV. Room: 90. Landscape by Mas-
simo d’ Azeglio.
V. Room. 93. Fra Angelico da Fiesole (?), Madonna; 94, 96. Adoring
angels, by the same; 97. Pietro Pollajuolo, Tobias and the angel; 98. School
of Sandro Botticelli, Same subject; 101. Fr. Francia, Entombment (retoucb-
ed); 106. Bugiardini (?School of Ghirlandajo), Holy Family; 108. Garofalo,
The boy Jesus in the Temple; 108 bis. After Raphael, Portrait of Pope
Julius Il. in the Palazzo Pitti at Florence; 114. Gian Petrino, SS. Catha-
rine and Peter Martyr; 118. Girolamo Savoldo, Holy Family; 121. Francia-
bigio, Annunciation; 122. Franc. Penni, Good copy (1518) of Raphael’s En-
tombment in the Palazzo Borghese at Rome; 127 bis. Clovio, Entombment,
painted on silk; 127, 128. Bronzino, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her
husband Cosimo I. de’ Medici; 129. After Titian, an old copy, Pope Paul III.
VI. Room. 132. Bonifacio, Holy Family; 137, 138, 142, 148. Andrea
Schiavone, Mythological scenes; 157. Paolo Veronese, The Queen of Sheba
before Solomon; 160. Agostino Carracci, Landscape; *161. Caravaggio, Mu-
sician; unnumbered, *Giov. Bellini, Bartol. Vivarini, Madonnas.
VII. Room. 163. Guido Reni, John the Baptist; 167. Jacopo da Ponte,
Cupid at the forge; 174. Spagnoletto, St. Jerome; 189 bis. Christ at Em-
maus, after Titian (original in the Louvre).
VIII. Room. Porcelain-paintings by Constantin of Geneva, copied from
celebrated originals; Luca della Robbia, Adoration of the Infant Saviour.
IX. Room. Fruit and flower-pieces; 220. by Snyders, 225. by Fyt, 228.
by De Heem. — Then a corridor with inferior works.
X. Room. 234. Paolo Veronese, Mary Magdalene washing the Saviour’s
feet ; 236. Guido Reni, Group of Cupids; 237, 238. Poussin, Waterfall, Cas-
cades of Tivoli; *239, 242. Gwercino, S. Francesca, Ecce Homo; 244. Orazio
Gentileschi, Annunciation; 251. Strozzi, Homer.
XI. Room. 257, 258. Sassoferrato, Madonnas, the first called ‘della
Rosa’; 263. Albani, Salmacis ; 260, 264, 271, 274. Albani, The four Elements ;
276. Carlo Dolci, Madonna; 283, 288. Bernardo Bellotto, Views of Turin;
295. Maratta, Madonna; 299, 300. Angelica Kaufmann, Sibyls.
XII. Room. Netherlands and German school: 306. Engelbrechtsen,
Passion; 309. Adoration of the Magi in the style of Hieron. Bosch (15th
cent.); *812, 320. Rogier van der Weyden, Madonna and St. Elizabeth,
with portrait of the donor; 319. Bruyn, Portrait of Calvin (?); 322. Paul
Bril, Landscape ; 325. Goltz, Warriors ; *338. Van Dyck, Children of Charles I.
of England; *340. Rubens, Sketch of his apotheosis of Henry IV. in the
Uffizi; *851. Van Dyck, Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain.
XIII. Room, containing the gems of the collection: *356. Lorenzo di
Credi, Madonna; *357. G@uercino, Madonna; “358. Hans Memling, Seven
Sorrows of Mary, the counterpart of the Seven Joys of Mary at Munich, a
chronological composition of a kind much in vogue among northern
artists ; 359. Petrus Cristus, Madonna; *361. Saenredam, Interior of a church,
the figures by A. van Ostade; *363. Van Dyck, Prince Thomas of Savoy,
a fine portrait; 364. D. Teniers, Tavern; 366. Wouwerman, Cavalry attack-
ing a bridge; 368. D. Teniers, Younger, Domestic concert (portraits of
the artist and his family); 369. Sandro Botticelli, Triumph of Chastity ;
*373. Raphael, Madonna della Tenda (a very fine picture, but the original
is at Munich); 374. S. Botticelli, Madonna; *375. Donatello, Madonna (relief);
*376. Sodoma, Lucretia killing herself; *377. Paul Potter (1649), Cattle graz-
ing; 377 bis. Jan Livens, Man asleep; 378. Jan or ‘Velvet’ Brueghel, Land-
scape with accessories; 379. Frans van Mieris, Portrait of himself; 380. Jan
Brueghel, Quay ; *384. Van Dyck, Holy Family, by far the finest work of
this master in Italy, painted under the influence of Titian; 385. Honthorst
(Gherardo delle Notti), Samson overcome by the Philistines ; 386. H. Hol-
bein, Portrait of Erasmus; 389. J. Ruysdael, Landscape; 391. Gerard Dou,
Girl plucking grapes; 392. Velazquez, Philip IV. of Spain; 393. Rubens (?),
Holy Family; 394. C. Netscher, Scissors-grinder.
XIV. Room, 398. Sallaert, Procession; 410, Floris, Adoration of the
5 *
68 Route 9. TURIN. Cathedral.
Magi; A17. School of Rubens, Soldier and girl; 420. Wouwerman, Horse-
market; 435. Gerard Dou, Portrait; “428. Teniers, Younger, Card-players ;
AMAL. B. Fabritius, Domestic scene; 458. Schaleken, Old woman; 434. bis
J. Ruysdael, Landscape.
XV. Room. 478, 483. Claude Lorrain, Landscapes; 481. Bourguignon,
Battle; 494. P. Mignard, Louis XIV.
The spacious Prazza 8. Canto (Pl. E, 3; 587 ft. long, and
264 ft. wide), which adjoins the Academy, is embellished with the
equestrian *Statue of Emmanuel Philibert (P1. 28), Duke of Savoy
(d. 1580), surnamed ‘7'éte de Fer’, in bronze, designed by Maroc-
chetti (1838), and placed on a pedestal of granite, with reliefs at
the sides. On the W. side the Battle of St. Quentin, gained by the
duke under Philip II. of Spain against the French in 1557; on the
E. side the Peace of Cateau-Cambrésis (1558), by which the duchy
was restored to the House of Savoy. The duke as ‘pacem redditurus’
is in the act of sheathing his sword (his armour preserved at the
armoury is placed in the same attitude).
The V1a Roma leads from the Piazza 8. Carlo to (N.) the Piazza
Castello (p. 63), and (8.) to the Piazza Carlo Felice (p. 70)
and the railway-station. — To the left in the Via dell’ Ospedale is
the Evehange (Pl. 6; F, 3), and adjoining it, a Museo Industriale
Italiano (Pl. 34; F, 3), with a technological collection. Farther on
is the large Ospedale S. Giovanni Battista (P1\. 35; F, 3). — The
cross-street leads in a N. direction to the Prazza CARLO EMMANUELE
II. (Pl. F, 3), with a handsome *Monument to Cavour (PI. 26), by
Dupré of Florence, erected in 1873: grateful Italy presenting the
civie crown to Cavour, who holds a scroll in his left hand with the
famous words ‘libera chiesa in libero stato’; the pedestal is adorned
with allegorical figures of Justice, Duty, Policy, and Independence ;
the reliefs represent the return of the Sardinian troops from the
Crimea, and the Paris Congress. For this fine work the sculptor
was paid upwards of 30,0007, — In the Via Cavour, at the corner
of the Via Lagrange, is the house (Pl. 7) in which Count Cavour
was born in 1810 (d. 1861), with a memorial tablet.
Adjoining the Palazzo Reale (p. 63) on the W. side rises the
Cathedral of S. Giovanni Battista (Pl. 10; E, 2), erected on the
site of three ancient churches in 1492-98 by Meo del Caprino (of
Florence, from Baccio Pintelli’s design?) in the Renaissance style,
with a marble facade.
The Interior consists of a nave and aisles, a transept, and an octa-
gonal dome in the centre. Over the W. Portal is a copy of Leonardo da
Vinci’s Last Supper (p. 140). Over the second altar on the right are 18
small pictures, blackened with age, by Deferrari (not Alb. Diirer). Fres-
coes on the ceiling modern. The seats of the royal family are on the left
of the high-altar.
_ Behind the high-altar is situated the *Cappella del Santissimo Sudario
(open during morning mass till 9 o'clock), approached by 37 steps to the
right of the high-altar, constructed in the 17th cent. by the Theatine monk
Guarini, 1t is a lofty circular chapel of dark brown marble, contrasting
strongly with the white monuments, separated from the choir by a glass
partition, and covered with a curiously shaped dome. This is the burial-
Palazzo di Citta. TURIN. 9. Route. 69
chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, and. was embellished by King Charles
Albert in 1842 with statues in white marble and symbolical figures to the
memory of the most illustrious members of his family: (r.) Emmanuel
Philibert (d. 1580), ‘restitutor imperii’, by Marchesi; Prince Thomas (d.
1656), ‘qui magno animo italicam libertatem armis adseruit nec prius dimi-
care destitit quam vivere’, by Gaggini; Charles Emmanuel IJ. (d. 1675),
by Fraccaroli; Amadeus VIII. (d. 1451), by Cacciatori. The chapel also
contains the marble monument of the late Queen of Sardinia Maria
Adelaide (d. 1855), by Revelli. The peculiar light from above enhances
the effect. In a kind of urn over the altar is preserved the Santissimo
Sudario, or part of the linen cloth in which the body of the Saviour is
said to have been wrapped. — The door in the centre leads to the upper
corridors of the royal palace, which are used as a public thoroughfare.
From the Piazza S. Giovanni we proceed through the Via della
Basilica to the VrA Porta Patatina, which leads to the Palazzo
delle Torri (Pl. 44; E, 2), one of the old Roman gates, with two
medieval towers. It has recently been converted into a Liceo
Musicale, or conservatorium of music. In the same street, not far
from the cathedral, is the church of Corpus Domini (Pl. 12; E, 2),
erected in 1607 by Vitozzi, and deriving its name from a miracle of
the Host in 1453. — In the adjacent church of S. Spirito, dating
from 1610, Rousseau, when an exile from Geneva, at the age of
16, was admitted within the pale of the Roman Catholic Church in
1728, but he again professed Calvinism at Geneva in 1754.
The Palazzo di Citta (Pl. 37; E, 2), the seat of the mu-
nicipality, and containing a library, was erected in 1659. The
Piazza in front of it is adorned with a monument to Amadeus VJ.
(Pl. 25), surnamed the ‘conte verde’, the conqueror of the Turks
and restorer of the imperial throne of Greece (d. 1383), a bronze
group designed by Palagi, and erected in 1853. The marble sta-
tues in front of the portico of the Palazzo di Citta (town-hall) of
(1.) Prince Eugene (p. 73; d. 1736) and (1.) Prince Ferdinand
(d. 1855), Duke of Genoa and brother of Victor Emmanuel, were
erected in 1858; that of King Charles Albert (d. 1849) in the col-
onnade to the left was erected in 1859; that of King Victor Em-
manuel (d. 1878), to the right, in 1860. Opposite these statues are
memorial tablets bearing reference to the events of their reigns.
The Via Milano leads hence to the N. to the church of S. Domen-
ico, which contains a Madonna and St. Dominic by Guercino. The
Via della Corte d’Appello runs W. to the Prazza Savota (PI. D, 2),
in which rises the Monumento Siccardi (Pl. 32), an obelisk 75 ft.
in height, erected to commemorate the abolition of ecclesiastical
jurisdiction in 1850, and named after Siccardi, minister of justice.
The Via della Consolata leads hence to the church of —
La Consolata (Pl. 11; D, 2), containing a highly revered Ma-
donna, and formed by the union of three churches; the present
structure in the ‘baroque’ style of the 17th cent., was erected by
Guarini in 1679, and decorated by Juvara in 1714. The chapel to
the left below the dome contains the kneeling statues of Maria
Theresa, Queen of Charles Albert, and Maria Adelaide, Queen of
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70 Route 9. TURIN. University.
Victor Emmanuel (both of whom died in 1855), erected in 1861.
The passage to the right of the church is hung with votive pic-
tures. — The piazza adjoining the church is adorned with a granite
column surmounted with a statue of the Virgin, erected in 1835 to
commemorate the cessation of the cholera.
From the Piazza Castello the Via di Dora Grossa, now Via Gari-
baldi, leads to the PrazzA DELLO Statuto (Pl. C, 2), which is em-
bellished with a huge allegorical Monument, commemorating the
completion of the Mont Cenis Tunnel; the Genius of Science soars
above a chaotic pile of granite rocks, on which lie the stupefied and
conquered giants of the mountain. On a tablet are inscribed the
names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni, and Grandi.
From the Via Dora di Grossa we proceed to the 8. along the
Corso Siccardi to the Giardino della Citadella (Pl. D, 2, 3), where
statues were erected in 1871 to Brofferio (d. 1866), the poet and
orator, and in 1873, on the opposite corner, to the jurist J. B.
Cassinis. — Farther on, in the triangular Piazza Pietro Micea (PI.
D, 3), at the corner of the Via della Cernaja, is a monument in
bronze, erected in 1864 in memory of Pietro Micca, the brave
‘soldato minatore’, who at the sacrifice of his own life saved the
citadel of Turin, on 30th Aug., 1706, by springing a mine when
the French grenadiers had already advanced to the very gates.
Nearly opposite rises the statue of Count Alex. La Marmora(d. 1855
in the Crimea).
The Prazza Sourertno (Pl. D, E, 3) is embellished with an
equestrian statue of Duke Ferdinand of Genua (p. 69), by Bal-
zico, erected in 1877; the prince is represented as commanding
at the battle of Novara.
In front of the imposing Central Station (p. 60; Pl. E, 4, 5)
extends the PrazzaA Caro Fruice. The bronze statue of Massimo
d’ Azeglio, the patriot, poet, and painter (d. 1866), by Balzico, was
cast at Munich, and erected in 1873. This large piazza is adjoined
by two smaller ones, the Piazza Paleocapa to the W., adorned with
the statue of the minister of the same name (Pl. 31), and the Piazz
Lagrange, with the statue of Count Lagrange, the mathematician
(d. 1813 at Paris; Pl. 30).
In the Vra pt Po (p. 63) which leads to the S.E. from the Piazza
Castello, on the left, is the University (Pl. 57; F, 2), with a hand-
some court in the late-Renaissance style, with two arcades, one
above the other. It contains a Museo Lapidario of Roman anti-
quities, chiefly inscriptions. Marble statues have been erected here
to Carlo Emmanuele II., and to Vittorio Amadeo II. (at the en-
trance), to Prof. Riberi (d. 1861), Dr. L. Gallo (d. 1857), and Prof.
Timermans (d. 1875). On the corridor of the first floor are busts of
celebrated professors and a large allegorical group presented by Vic-
tor Emmanuel. The Library (open to the public daily, 8 a.m. to
Museo Civico. TURIN. 9. Route. 71
6 p.m. in summer, and 9-4 and 7-10 p.m. in winter; closed in
Sept.), numbers 200,000 vols. and contains a number of valuable
manuscripts from Bobbio and rare editions (Aldi). The University
(founded in 1404) has at present a staff of 85 professors, and num-
bers about 1500 students.
No. 6, to the right in the Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, is the
Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti (Pl. 1; F,3; shown on week-
days on payment of a fee). It contains a small collection of pic-
tures and numerous good engravings and drawings, among them a
cartoon by Leon. da Vinci and 24 fine cartoons by Gaudenzio Ferrari.
The Via Montebello, the next cross-street, leads to the new
Synagogue (Pl. 47; G, 2), begun by Antonelli in 1863, but after-
wards discontinued for lack of funds, and now being finished at
the expense of the city, as a memorial of Victor Emmanuel; it is
a square building resembling a tower, with a singular facade con-
sisting of several rows of columns, and will when finished be the
loftiest in Turin (354 ft.).
In the Via di Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, is situated the Museo
Civico (Pl. 33; F, 2), containing the civic collections (open gratis
on Sun. and Thurs., 11-3; on other days, fee 4 fr.).
GROUND FrLoor. Early sculptures, early medizeval relief of the Ma-
donna, coffin of the poet Vagnone (d. 1499) with reliefs of Orpheus and
Perseus, terracottas, wood-carvings of the 16th cent.,a copy of the Bucen-
taur (p. 247). — First Froor. Modern paintings and sculptures. Marble
statues of Eve by Fantacchiotti and Dante by Vela. The realistic tendency
of modern Italian art is well illustrated in the death agonies depicted in
the Crucifixion of Eulalia by Franceschi and the ‘Femme de Claude’ by
Mosso. Good water-colours by Bossoli, lustrating the events of 1859-61.
Statuette by Balzico, the ‘Plebiscite in Naples’. In the last room are a
few old paintings by Bart. Vivarini, Bugiardini, Honthorst, and Victors,
and a marble bust of Sappho by Canova, — SECOND FLoor, Rooms 12-14:
Sculptures in wood, tapestry, bronze and iron work. Room 15: Modern
wood and ivory carvings; six pieces of sculpture from the tomb of Gaston
de Foix (p. 138), by Bambaja. R. 16: Miniatures (missal of Cardinal della
Rovere, 15th cent.), enamels, majolica. R. 17: Italian ceramic ware. RR. 18,
19: Mementoes of Massimo d’Azeglio. R. 20: Interesting collection of
stained glass. RR. 21. 22: Prehistoric and ethnographical collection.
The former Giardino dei Ripari, on the site of the old fortifi-
cations, is now superseded by new streets and squares in course
of construction. The squares in this new quarter are adorned with
several monuments, such as that to the Dictator of Venice, Dan-
iele Manin (d. 1857), beyond the Ospedale S. Giovanni Battista,
representing the Republic Venice, holding in her right hand
palm-branch, and leaning, with her left, on the medallion-portrait
of Manin. Also statues of Cesare Balbo (d. 1583), the minister and
historian, of Bava, the Piedmontese general, and, nearer the
Piazza Maria Teresa (BLIGH 3), of General Gugl. Pepe (d. 1853),
the brave defender of Venice in 1849.
An avenue leads from the Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele, along the
bank of the river, to the chain-bridge (Pl. G, 4), constructed in
1840. In the Via S. Lazzaro, diverging to the right, is situated the
72° Route 9. TURIN. Capuchin Monastery.
church of $. Massimo (Pl. 15; F, G, 4), built in 1849-54 in the
style of a Roman temple, surmounted by a dome. The fagade is
adorned with statues of the Four Evangelists. Good modern fres-
coes in the interior, and several statues by Albertoni.
In the Corso del Re, which leads from the iron bridge to the
Piazza Carlo Felice, on the left, is the handsome Protestant Church
(Tempio Valdese; Pl. 18, F 4; see p. 73), completed in 1854, the
first erected at Turin since the establishment of religious toleration
in 1848.
A favourite promenade, especially in the evening, is the
*Nuovo Giardino Pubblico (Pl. G, 4, 5), above the iron bridge on
the left bank of the Po (Café). It comprises the Botanical Garden,
and extends beyond the royal chateau Il Valentino, a turreted
building of the 17th cent., now occupied by the Polytechnic
School. In the adjacent Corso Massimo d’Azeglio is the Tiro
Nazionale, a well equipped rifle-range.
Opposite the spacious Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele (see p. 63;
Pl. G, 3) the Po, here 175 yds. wide and 10 ft. deep, is crossed by
a Bridge of five arches, constructed of granite in 1810. (Above the
pridge are the swimming-baths, p. 62.) Beyond the bridge, on the
right bank of the river is a flight of 32 steps ascending to the spa-
cious dome-church of Gran Madre di Dio (Pl. 14; H, 3), erected
in 1818 in imitation of the Pantheon at Rome, to commemorate the
return of King Victor Emmanuel I. in 1814. The groups sculp-
tured in stone on the flight of steps are emblematical of Faith and
Charity. The lofty columns of the portico are monoliths of granite.
— A few hundred yards farther is the Villa della Regina, now a
school for the daughters of officers who have fallen in battle. To
the right a new road leads to the * Trattoria S. Margherita, command-
ing a fine view of the Alps.
Following the Via di Moncalieri to the right, we reach the
wooded hill on which rises the Capuchin Monastery, Il Monte
(Pl. H, 3, 4), 1/, hr.’s walk from the bridge. Two paths ascend
the hill, the wider of which, to the left, is preferable, being shady
and unpaved. At the top is a station of the Italian Alpine Club
(open when the flag is flying; adm. 25c.), which commands a fine
#Survey of the river, city, plain, and the chain of the Alps in the
background, above which (right) the snowy summit of Monte Rosa
(15,217 ft.) is prominent, then the Grand-Paradis (13,780 ft.), and
Monte Levanna (11,942 ft.); farther W. the valley of Susa (p. 26),
S. Michele della Chiusa (p. 26), rising conspicuously on a hill
(1042 ft.), above it the Roche-Melon (411,660 ft.) to the right of
Mont Cenis, and farther S.W. Monte Viso (12,670 ft.). Morning
light is most favourable for the view. The club-house contains
several interesting maps. This hill of the Capuchins has always
been a point of great importance in the military history of Turin,
and was fortified down to 1802.
Cemetery. TURIN. 9. Route. 73
The Cemetery (Campo Santo, open 12-4 o’el. in winter in fine
weather; in March and April 1-5; in summer 3-8; in Sept. and
Oct. 2-4 only; single cab fare), 11/, M. N.E. of Turin, and reached
from the Ponte delle Benne by a shady avenue (the road to Chi-
vasso, see p. (7), deserves a visit. The front part is enclosed by
a wall with arches, while the more interesting portion beyond is
surrounded by arcades covered with small domes. To the left by
the wall in the first section is the tomb of Silvio Pellico (d. 1854);
in the other section we observe the names of many celebrated
modern Italians, such as d’Azeglio, Bava, Brofferio, Gioberti, Pepe,
and Pinelli. A separate space on the N. side is reserved for the
interment of non-Romanists.
The *Superga, or Soperga (2555 ft.), the royal burial-church, a hand-
some edifice with a colonnade in front, and surmounted by a dome, con-
spicuously situated on a hill to the E. of Turin, is well worthy of a visit,
and commands a splendid view (comp. the Map, p. 61). The building was
begun in 1718, from designs by Juvara, and was completed in 1731 (closed
12-2). Adjacent are a seminary for priests and a trattoria. — It was near
the Superga that the famous battle of Turin between the Italians and French
was fought, 7th Sept. 1706, in which the latter were signally defeated,
and by which the House of Savoy regained the Duchy, which was created
a kingdom in the Peace of Utrecht, 1713. It is said that Prince Eugene
reconnoitred the hostile camp from this height before the commencement
of the battle, and that, observing symptoms of irresolution in their move-
ments, he observed to Duke Amadeus II. ‘/1 me semble, que ces gens-la
sont & demi battus’. The latter, it is said, on this occasion vowed to erect
a church here in honour of the Virgin, in case of his success in the
battle. An annual thanksgiving still takes place in the church on 8th Sept.
Pedestrians require three good hours to reach the Superga. The
pleasantest way is to take the tramway as far as the Madonna del Pilone,
about 3/, M. below Turin, where donkeys (somarelli, 2-3 fr.) may be en-
gaged for the ascent of the hill. Two-horse carriage from Turin and
back, 25 fr. (not recommended, as the road is very rough at places).
Excursion from Turin to the VALLEYS oF THE WALDENSES ( Vallées Vau-
doises), extending along the French frontier, about 30 M. to the S.W.
The well-known and interesting Protestant communities (about 25,000
souls) who have occupied these valleys for 600 years, have steadily ad-
hered to the faith for which they were formerly so cruelly persecuted.
Their language is French. Railway from Turin to Pignerol, Ital. Pine-
rolo (with a monument to Gen. Brignone by Tabacchi), in 11/2 hr. (fares
3fr. 45, 2fr. 60, 1 fr. T5c.); omnibus thence once daily in 1 hr. (fare 1 fr. ;
one-horse carr. there and back 7'/2 fr.) to La Tour, Ital. Zorve Pellice,
formerly Torre Luserna (L’Ours; Lion d'Or), the chief of these commun-
ities, which possesses excellent schools. — From Pignerol a road ascends
the valley of the Clusone by Perosa and Fenestrelle, a strongly fortified
place, to the Mont Genéevre and the French fortress of Briangon in the lofty
valley of the Durance. At Cesanne this road unites with that from Susa.
10. From Turin to Aosta.
81 M. Raitway to Ivrea (39 M.) in 21/4-23/, hrs. (fares 7 fr. 5, 4 fr. 95,
3fr. 45¢.). Ditreencr thence to Aosta (42 M.) in 9 hrs.
From Turin to (148 M.) Chivasso, see p. 77. Between the de-
pressions of the lower mountains the snowy summits of the Grand-
Paradis are conspicuous; farther to the E., Monte Rosa is visible.
At Chivasso carriages are changed. — 22 M. Montanaro, 27 M.
Caluso, and 27 M, Strambino, villages of some importance.
74 Route 10. VERREX. From Turin
39 M. Ivréa (768 ft.; Europa, in the Dora promenade ; Uni-
verso, well spoken of), a town with 7600 inhab., is picturesquely
situated on the Dora Baltea (French Doire), on the slope of a hill
crowned by an extensive and well-preserved ancient Castle, with
three lofty towers of brick, now a prison. Adjacent is the modern
Cathedral, the interior of which was restored in 1855. An ancient
sarcophagus adorns the adjoining Piazza. A monument was erected
here in 1880 to the general and minister Ettore Perrone, who fell
at Novara in 1848. Ivrea was the ancient Eporedia, which was
colonised by the Romans, B.C. 100, in order to command the Alpine
routes over the Great and Little St. Bernard. Pleasant walk to the
Madonna del Monte (pilgrimage-church) and the lake of S. Giuseppe
with a ruined monastery (4 hr.).
Ivrea may be regarded as one of the 8. gateways to the Alps. The
luxuriantly fertile valley, here 11/2 M. in breadth, is flanked with
mountains of considerable height. The Roap skirts the Dora
Baltea the whole way to Aosta. On a height to the right stands
the well-preserved, pinnacled castle of Montalto (a waterfall near
it); several other ruins crown the hills farther on. The vines
which clothe the slopes are carefully cultivated. The road leads
through the villages of Settimo-Vittone and Carema. At —
11M. (from Ivrea) Pont St. Martin (Rosa Rossa) the road
crosses the Lys torrent, which descends from Monte Rosa. The bold
and slender bridge which crosses the brook higher up is a Roman
structure. This and the ruined castle here are most picturesque
features in the landscape. Several forges are situated on the bank
of the Dora.
Beyond Donnaz the road ascends rapidly through a profound
detile. On the left flows the river, on the right rises a precipitous
rock. The pass is terminated by the picturesque *Fort Bard (1019
ft.), which stands on a huge mass of rock in a most commanding
position. The fort was taken in 1052 by Duke Amadeus of Savoy
after a long and determined siege, and in May, 1800, before the
battle of Marengo, it was most gallantly defended by 400 Austrians,
who kept the whole French army in check for a week.
The new road, hewn in the solid rock, no longer leads by the
village of Bard, but follows the course of the Dora, below the fort.
On the left opens the Val di Camporciero, or Champorcher.
19 M. Verrex (1279 ft.; Ecu de France, or Poste ; *Couronne)
lies at the entrance of the (r.) Val de Challant.
The valleys of Aosta and Susa (p. 26) were alternately occu-
pied by the Franks and the Lombards , and belonged for a con-
siderable period to the Franconian Empire, in consequence of which
the French language still predominates in these Italian districts.
Bard is the point of transition from Italian to French, while at
Verrex the latter is spoken almost exclusively.
Above Verrex the valley expands. The ruined castle of St, Ger-
to Aosta. AOSTA. 10. Route. 75
main, loftily situated, soon comes into view. The road ascends
through the long and steep *Defile of Montjovet. The rock-hewn
passage may have been originally,constructed by the Romans, though
the inscription asserts the contrary. ‘The Doire forms a succession
of waterfalls in its rugged channel far below. The small village
of Montjovet, on the roofs of which the traveller looks down from
the road, appears to cling precariously to the rocks. The castle
of St. Germain is again visible from several different points of view.
As soon as the region of the valley in which Aosta is situated
is entered, a grand and picturesque landscape, enhanced by the
richest vegetation, is disclosed. The Pont des Salassins (see
below), a bridge crossing a profound ravine, commands a magnifi-
cent view. On the left rises the castle of Usselle.
Near St. Vincent (Lion d’Or; Ecu de France) is a mineral
spring and bath-establishment. Then (1'/. M. farther) —
271/.M. Ch&tillon (1738 ft.; Hotel de Londres ; Liond’Or, poor),
the capital of this district, possessing a number of forges and hand-
some houses. To the N. opens the Val Tournanche, through which
a bridle-path leads to the Theodule Pass (10,899 ft.) and Zermatt
(see Baedeker’s Switzerland).
The road is shaded by walnut and chestnut-trees and trellised
vines. The wine of Chambave, about 3 M. from Chatillon, is one
of the best in Piedmont. A slight eminence here commands an
imposing retrospect; to the E. rise several of the snowy summits of
Monte Rosa, on the right the Castor and Pollux (the ‘Zwillinge’), on
the left the bold peak of the Matterhorn and the Theodule Pass (see
above). The background towards the W. is formed by the triple-
peaked Ruitor.
To the left, at the entrance of the valley of Chambave, stands
the picturesque castle of Fenis. The poor village of Nus, with
fragments of an old castle, lies midway between Chatillon and Aosta.
A footpath leads from Villefranche to the castle of Quart on the
hill above (now a hospital) and descends on the other side. Beau-
tiful view from the summit.
42M. Aosta (1912 ft.; *Hdtel du Montblanc, at the upper end
of the town, on the road to Courmayeur; Couronne, in the market-
place), the Augusta Praetoria Salassorum of the Romans, now the
capital (5600 inhab.) of the Italian province of that name, lies at
the confluence of the Buttier and the Doire, or Dora Baltea. The
valley was anciently inhabited by the Salassi, a Celtic race , who
commanded the passage of the Great and the Little St. Bernard,
the two most important routes from Italy to Gaul. They frequently
harassed the Romans in various ways, and on one occasion plun-
dered the coffers of Cesar himself. After protracted struggles the
tribe was finally extirpated by Augustus, who is said to have
captured the whole of the survivors, 36,000 in number, and to
have sold them as slaves at Eporedia. He then founded Aosta to
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76° Route 10. AOSTA.
protect the high-roads, named it after himself, and garrisoned it
with 3000 soldiers of the Praetorian cohorts.
The antiquities which still remain testify to its ancient impor-
tance. The Town Walls, flanked with strong towers, and forming
a rectangle 790 yds. long by 620 yds. wide, are preserved in their
entire extent, and on the $.W. side the ancient facing and cornice
of hewn stone are still in situ. The walls of the old Theatre and
the arcades of the Amphitheatre are visible above the houses in the
houses in the market-place.
The principal street leads to the E., through the ancient *Porra
PR#&ToRIA, to the (1/, M.) handsome *[RrumpHat Arcu, adorned
with ten Corinthian pilasters. It then crosses the Buttier, which
has deserted its ancient channel, and reaches the beautiful Arch
of the old Roman bridge, now half-buried in the earth. — In the
suburb lies the church of St. Ours, the choir of which contains the
tomb of Bishop Gallus (d. 546) and finely carved stalls of the 15th
century. The old crypt is supported by Roman columns. The
adjacent cloisters contain early-Romanesque columns (42th cent.),
with interesting capitals. Near the church rises a Tower, con-
structed of Roman hewn stones in the 12th cent., opposite which
are a sarcophagus and two ancient columns at the entrance of a
chapel. In the same square is the Priory of St. Ours, a handsome
building of the 15th cent., with terracotta ornamentation and an
octagonal tower. The interior contains some interesting wood-
carvings and frescoes.
The CaTHEDRAL dates in its present shape from the 14th cent-
ury. Above the portal is a painted terracotta relief, and in the
choir are two mosaics of the 10th cent. and some early-Renaissance
stalls. The cathedral treasury contains two shrines of the 13th
and 15th cent., a cameo of a Roman empress in a setting of the
13th cent., and a diptychon of the Consul Probus (406) with a
portrait of the Emp. Honorius.
At the S. gate rises the tower of Bramafam (12th cent.), in
which Count Challant is said to have starved his wife to death out
of jealousy. By the W. wall is the Tour du Lépreux, rendered
celebrated by Xavier le Maistre’s novel, in which a leper named
Guasco (d. 1803) and his sister Angelica (d. 1791) dragged out
their miserable existence.
The *Becca di Nona (10,354 ft.), which rises to the S. of Aosta, com-
mands a superb view of the Alps. Good bridle-path to the summit. Two-
thirds of the way up is the Alp Comboé (simple fare); on the top is a new
refuge hut.
From Aosta over the Great St. Bernard to Martigny (p. 27), and from
Aosta to Courmayeur and round Mont Blane to Chamonix, and excursions
to the Gratan Alps, see Baedeker’s Switzerland.
P=. ee oo — EEE
11. From Turin to Milan by Novara.
93!/2 M. Rariway in 31/2-5!/, hrs. (fares 17 fr., 11 fr. 90, 8 fr. 55 ¢.; ex-
press 15 fr. 70, 13 fr. 10 c.). — The seats on the left afford occasional
glimpses of the Alps. — Stations at Turin, see p. 60.
The Dora Kiparia is crossed, then the Stura between stations
(9 M.) Succursale di Torino and (101/, M.) Settimo (whence a tram-
way runs towards the N. to Rivarolo), and beyond it the Malon and
Oreo, all tributaries of the Po. — 15 M. Brandizzo.
18 M. Chivasso (Moro) lies near the influx of the Orco into the
Po. Branch-line hence to Ivrea, see p. 73. Beyond (221/, M.) Tor-
razza di Verolan the Dora Baltea (p. 74), a torrent descending
from Mont Blanc, is crossed. Stations Saluggia, Livorno, Bianzé,
and T'ronzano.
37M. Santhiz possesses a church, restored with taste in 1862,
and containing a picture by Gaud. Ferrari in ten sections.
BRANCH-LINE TO BIELLA, 18!/2 M., in 1 hr., by Salussola, Vergnasco,
Sandigliano, and Candelo. — Biella (Albergo della Testa Grigia; Albergo
Centrale), an industrial town and seat of a bishop, possesses streets with
arcades and a fine cathedral in a spacious Piazza, where the episcopal
palace and seminary are also situated. The palaces of the old town, rising
picturesquely on the hill, are now tenanted by the lower classes. Celebrat-
ed pilgrimage-church of the Madonna d’Oropa, 8M. farther up the valley
(omnibus thither). On the way to it two finely situated hydropathic
establishments are passed. :
The train skirts the high-road. — 40!/g M. S. Germano.
A91/o M. Vercelli (Tre Re; Leone d’ Oro), an episcopal residence
with 20,200 inhabitants. From the station we see the imposing
church of S. Andrea, founded in £219, with a dome and W.
towers like those of the churches of N. Europe; the interior is early-
Gothic. The church of §. Cristoforo contains pictures by G. Ferrari
and B. Lanini, by the former a “Madonna and donors in an orchard.
S. Caterina also contains a work of Ferrari. The cathedral-library
contains several rare and ancient MSS. A statue of Cavour was
erected in the market-place in 1864. To the S. of Vercelli lie the
Raudine Fields, where the younger Marius defeated the Cimbri in
B.C. 101. — Tramway from Vercelli to Casale and Varallo.
BRANCH-LINE To ALESSANDRIA, 35 M., in 21/4 hrs. (fares6 fr. 35, 4 fr. 45,
3fr. 20¢.). Stations Asigliano, Pertengo, Balzola, beyond which the Po
is crossed. — 141/2 M. Casale (Albergo dell’ Angelo, Leone d’Oro), the an-
cient capital of the Duchy of Monferrato, which afterwards belonged to
the Gonzagas. The interesting Romanesque Cathedral contains several
good paintings (by G. Ferrari and others), and sculptures by Lombard
masters. The church of S. Domenico, in the Renaissance style, the Pa-
lazzo di Citta, with its handsome colonnade, and other palaces are also
worthy of inspection. The Ghibelline prince William of Montferrat is
mentioned by Dante in his Purgatory (VII. 134). Casale is the junction
of the Asti and Mortara line (see p. 81). — The following stations are
Borgo S. Martino, Giarole, Valenza (see p. 80), Valmadonna, and Alessandria
(see p. 82).
The train crosses the Sesia (p. 175); to the left rise the Alps,
among which the magnificent Monte Rosa group is most conspic-
uous. 52'/5 M. Borgo Vercelli; 57 M. Ponzana.
63 M. Novara (*Rail. Restaurant ; Albergo d'Italia, well spoken
78 Route 11. NOVARA. From Turin
of; Tre Re; Roma; Hétel de la Ville), an episcopal residence and
formerly a fortress, with 15,000 inhab., was the scene of a victory
gained by the Austrians under Radetzky over the Piedmontese
in 1849, in consequence of which Charles Albert abdicated (p. 60).
A walk through the town is interesting.
From the station we proceed in a straight direction along the
Via Vittorio Emmanuele, passing a Monument of Cavour, by Dini,
and then turn to the right to the church of 8S. GaupENztro, erected
by Pellegrini about 1570, the stately tower of which rises con-
spicuously over the town. The church is built without aisles, in
imitation of S. Fedele at Milan, and contains several good pictures
by Gaudenzio Ferrari (2nd chapel on the left). The tower, ascend-
ed by 300 steps, commands a very extensive prospect, most pictur-
esque in the direction of the Alps.
The CarHEpRAL, a Renaissance structure with nave and aisles
upon an old Roman foundation, connected with the Baptistery by
Gozzano
TOVARK.
1: 12500 NG
950-290 30 390
elLIpue sssly ‘OULLO],
to Milan, MAGENTA. 11. Route. 79
an atrium or entrance-court, is a picturesque pile. — In front of
the theatre is a marble statue of Charles Emmanuel ILI. , by Mar-
chesi. — The Mercato, or Corn Exchange, near the Porta Torino,
is a handsome building, surrounded with colonnades. — In the
Corso di Porta Genova, near the Palazzo Civico, is a monument to
Charles Albert.
The celebrated philosopher Petrus Lombardus (d. 1164 as Bishop of
Paris), surnamed the ‘Magister Sententiarum’ and a pupil of Abelard, was
born near Novara about 1120.
BRANCH-LINE TO GOZZANO, 221/2 M., in 11/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 85 ¢.,
2 fr. 5 c.). Stations Caltignaga , Momo , Borgomanéro (a thriving town),
Gozzano (near it Bolzano, an episcopal ‘chateau with a church and sem-
inary); omnibus hence to Buccione on Lake Orta (see p. 174).
A tramway-line leads from Novara to Galliate, whence it is to be pro-
longed towards the N.E.
At Novara the Turin and Milan line is crossed by that from
Arona to Genoa (R. 12). Frequent changes of carriage
69 M. Tecate. Near 8. Martino the line crosses the Ticino by
a broad and handsome stone bridge of eleven arches, which the
Austrians partially destroyed before the battle of Magenta.
Farther on, the Naviglio Grande, a canal connecting Milan with
the Ticino and the Lago Maggiore , is crossed (comp. p. 129). On
the right, before (77 M.) Magenta (tramway to Milan, see p. 128)
is reached, stands a monument erected to Napoleon if. in 1862, to
commemorate the victory gained by the French and Sardinians
over the Austrians on 4th June, 1859, in consequence of which
the latter were compelled to evacuaté the whole of Lombardy. A
number of mounds with crosses in a low-lying field opposite the
station mark the graves of those who fell in the struggle. A small
chapel has been erected on an eminence in the burial-ground,
and adjoining it a charnel-house.
The line intersects numerous fields of rice, which are kept
under water during two months in the year. Stations Vittwone and
Rho (p. 165), where the line unites with that from Arona.
931/ M. Milan (see p. 127).
12, From Arona to Genoa.
111M. Railway in 61/2-11 hrs. (fares 20 fr. 20, 14 fr. 15, 10 fr. 15¢.; ex-
press fares 24 fr. 55, 15 fr. 140 ¢.), At the Mortara station this line is
joined by another coming from Milan, on which the through-trains from
Milan to Genoa run: From Minan to Genoa, 1041/2 M., in 5-7!/2 hrs.
(fares 17 fr. 30, 12 fr. 10, 8 fr. 70 c.; express 19 fr. 5, 13 fr. 35 ¢.). (Rail-
way by Voghera, see R. 28.) 4
Arona, see p. 107. 6 M. Borgo-Ticino; 8 M. Varallo-Pombia;
13 M. Oleggio (to the right a fine glimpse of the Monte Rosa chain).
The line traverses a flat district. — 15!/9 M. Bellinzago.
23 M. Novara (p. 77), where the Arona-Genoa line intersects
that from Milan to Turin (R. 14; from Novara to Turin, 2!/4-4 hrs. ).
31M. Vespolate; 331/)M. Borgo-Lavezzaro. — 39M. Mortara,
a town with 7800 inhabitants. The church of S. Lorenzo contains
Sue ere ape
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80 Route 13. TORTONA.
several pictures by Crespi, Lanino, Procaccini, and Gaud. Ferrari
(Madonna with SS. Rochus and Sebastian). — To the right and
left are numerous fields of rice, which are laid under water dur-
ing two months in the year, intercepted here and there by maize
fields and mulberry trees.
At Mortara a direct line to Milan diverges. From Minan to Mortara,
3821/2 M., in 11/,-43/, hr. (fares 6fr., 4fr. 20, 3fr. 5c.; express 6 fr. 60,
A fr. 45 ¢.). Stations Corsico, Gaggiano, and Abbiategrasso. Crossing the
Ticino, the train reaches Vigevano (Albergo Reale), with 14,100 inhab.,
a town of some importance in the silk-trade, and possessing a spacious
market-place surrounded by arcades. Then (32!/2 M.) Mortara, see above.
41 M. Olevano; 451/, M. Valle; 47 M. Sartirana; 51 M.
Torre-Beretti (railway to Pavia, see p. 179).
To the left the long chain of the Apennines forms a blue line
in the distance. The line crosses the Po by means of a bridge of
twenty-one arches.
53!/5 M. Valenza, a town with 6600 inhab., formerly fortified,
containing a cathedral of the 16th cent. (route to Pavia, see p. 179;
to Vercelli, see p. 77). — The train next passes through a tunnel
11/; M. in length. — 571/, M. Val Madonna; several pictur-
esquely situated small towns lie on the chain of hills to the right.
The Tandro is then crossed.
63!/, M. Alessandria; thence to Genoa, see pp. 82, 83.
18. From Turin to Piacenza by Alessandria.
1417 M. Ratmmway in 4-8 hrs. (fares 21 fr. 30, 14 fr. 90, 10 fr. 60c.; ex-
press 23 fr. 45, 16 fr. 35 c¢.).
From Turin to Alessandria, 57 M., see R. 14. Beyond Alessandria
the train traverses the Batile-field of Marengo (p. 82). 62 M.
Spinetta, a little to the N.W. of Marengo. — 65 M. 8. Giuliano.
The train then crosses the Scrivia, and reaches (70 M.) the small
town of Tortona (Croce Bianca), the ancient Dertona, with a Ca-
thedral erected by Philip IJ. in 1584, containing a remarkably
fine ancient sarcophagus.
Brancu-Line To Novi (p. 82), 11!/2 M., by stat. Pozzuwolo, in 25-40
min. (2fr. 15, ifr. 55, 1 fr. 10c¢.; express 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 75 c.).
The train traverses a fertile district, and near stat. Ponte-
curone crosses the impetuous Curone. — 81 M. Voghera (Jtalia ;
Albergo del Popolo), a town with 10,900 inhab. (perhaps the an-
cient Iria), on the left bank of the Staffora, was once fortified by
Giov. Galeazzo Visconti. The old church of 8. Lorenzo, founded in
the 11th cent., was remodelled in 1600. — From Voghera to Milan
via Pavia, see R. 28.
On the high-road from Voghera to the next station Casteggio,
to the S. of the railway, is situated Montebello, where the well-
known battle of 9th June, 1800 (five days before the battle of Ma-
rengo), took place, and on 20th May, 1859, the first serious en-
counter between the Austrians and the united French and Sar-
dinian armies. Casteggio, a village on the Coppa, is believed to
ASTI. 14. Route. 81
be identical with the Clastidium so frequently mentioned in the
annals of the wars of the Romans against the Gauls.
The train skirts the base of the N. spurs of the Apennines.
Stations S. Giuletta, Broni, Stradella. At (981/g M.) Arena-Po it
enters the plain of the Po. — 103 M. Castel S. Giovanni is situated
in the ex-Duchy of Parma. The last stations are Sarmato, Rotto-
freno, and S. Niccold. The last, in the plain of the Trebia, is
memorable for the victory gained by Hannibal, B. C. 218, over the
Romans, whom he had shortly before defeated near Somma.
117 M. Piacenza, see p. 285.
14, From Turin to Genoa.
a. Via Alessandria.
103 M. Rartway in 4!/4-7 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 80, 13 fr. 50, 9fr. 40c.; ex-
press 20 fr. 70, 14 fr. 50 c.).
The line, the construction of which was zealously promoted by
Count Cavour in order to bring Genoa into closer relations with
Turin (opened in 1853), at first proceeds towards the 8., at some
distance from the left bank of the Po. Near (5 M.) Moncalieri, where
the line turns to the E., the river is crossed by a bridge of seven
arches. On a height above Moncalieri, which is picturesquely
situated on the hill-side, rises the handsome royal chateau, where
Victor Emmanuel I. died in 1823. A final retrospect is now ob-
tained of the hills of Turin, and, to the left, of the principal snowy
summits of the Alps. At (8 M.) Trofarello branch-lines diverge
to Savona(p. 102) and Cuneo (p. 118), and to Chieri. Stations Cam-
biano, Pessione, Villanova, Villafranca , Baldichieri, S. Damiano.
The line then crosses the Borbone, and reaches the valley of the
Tanaro, on the left bank of which it runs to Alessandria.
351/o M. Asti (Leone d’Oro; Albergo Reale), the ancient Asta,
with 17,300 inhab., and numerous towers, the birthplace of the
dramatist Alfieri (d. 1803), is famous for its sparkling wine and its
horticulture. The left aisle of the Gothic Cathedral, erected in 1348,
contains (in the 2nd chapel) a Madonna with four saints by a master
of the school of Vercelli, and (in the 3rd chapel) a Sposalizio, pro-
bably by the same. — The adjacent church of 8S. Giovanni (the
sacristan of the cathedral keeps the key) is built above an ancient
Christian basilica, part of which has again been rendered accessible,
and is borne by monolithic columns with capitals bearing Christian
symbols (6th cent.). The Piazza is adorned with a Statue of Al-
fieri, by Vini, erected in 1862. Near Porta Alessandria is the small
Baptistery of S. Pietro (11th cent.), an octagonal structure, borne
by short columns with square capitals, and surrounded by a low,
polygonal gallery. On the right and left, at some distance from the
town, rise vine-clad hills which yield the excellent wine of Asti.
From Asti To Mortara (Milan), 46 M., in 23/4-31/2 hrs. — Stations un-
important: (29 M.) Casale, see p. 77; Mortara, see p. 19. — From Asti
To CASTAGNOLE (p. 84), 13 M., in 1 hr.
BAaEDEKER. Italy I. 6th Edit. 6
82 Route 14. NOVI. From Turin
Next stations Annone, Cerro, Felizzano, Solero. The country
is flat and fertile. Before Alessandria is reached, the line to Arona
(p. 167) diverges to the N. The train now crosses the Tanaro by a
bridge of 15 arches, skirts the fortifications, and reaches —
O61/, M. Alessandria (Hotel de UV Univers; Europa; Italia;
*Railway Restaurant), a town with 29,000 inhab., situated on the
Tanaro in a marshy district, and only remarkable as a fortified
place. It was founded in 1168 by the Lombard towns allied against
the Emp. Frederick Barbarossa, and named after Pope Alexan-
der III., with the addition of della paglia, i.e. of straw, perhaps
because the first houses were thatched with straw. — Alessandria
being ajunction ofseveral lines, carriages are generally changed here.
Railway to Vercelli by Valenza, p. 77; to Novara and Arona, pp. 79,
80; to Milan by Mortara and Vigevano, see p. 80; to Pavia by Valenza,
see p. 179; to Piacenza, Parma, Bologna, etc., see RR. 13 and 42; to
Cavallermaggiore, see p. 83. — Tramway from Alessandria to Varallo and
to Sale (via Marengo).
From ALESSANDRIA TO Savona (vid Acqui), 65 M., in 4/2 hrs. (fares
11 fr. 95, 8 fr. 40c., 6 fr.). — As far as Cantalupo the line is the same
as to Bra and Cavallermaggiore (see p. 83). — 21 M. Acqui (Moro;
ftalia), the Aquae Statielae of the Romans, an episcopal town on the
Bormida with 7000 inhab., is well known for its mineral waters, which
resemble those of Aix-la-Chapelle. The Cathedral, with its double aisles,
dates from the 12th century. Near Acqui the Austrians and Piedmontese
were defeated by the French in 1794. Good wine is produced in the
vicinity. — The line ascends the valley of the Bormida, passing through
ten tunnels. Stations Yerzo, Bistagno, Ponti, Montechiaro, Spigno (with
silk and wool factories), Merana, Piana, Dego, Rocchetta, and Cairo. —
52 M. S. Giuseppe di Cairo, see p. 84. — 65 M. Savona, see p. 102.
The line crosses the Bormida, which a short distance below
Alessandria falls into the Tanaro. About 11/, M. to the E. of the
bridge, in the broad plain between the Bormida and the Serivia, is
situated the small village of Marengo, near which, on 14th June,
1800, was fought a battle which influenced the destinies of the
whole of Europe. The French were commanded by Napoleon, the
Austrians by Melas. The battle lasted 12 hrs., and the French lost
Desaix, one of their best generals. — 63 M. Frugardlo.
70 M. Novi (*La Sirena), situated on the hills to the right,
commanded by a lofty square tower, was the scene of the victory
gained by the Austrians and Russians under Suvoroy over the
French on 15th Aug., 1799. Branch-line to Pavia and Milan via
Tortona and Voghera, see p. 80, and R. 28; to Piacenza, see R. 13.
— At (75 M.) Serravalle the train enters a mountainous district. —
79 M. Arquata, with a ruined castle on the height. Between this
point and Genoa there are eleven tunnels. The train threads its
way through profound rocky ravines (la Bocchetta), traversing lofty
embankments, and several times crossing the mountain-brook (Seri-
via). The scenery is imposing and beautiful. — 83 M. Isola del
Cantone ; on the height to the right the ruins of an old castle.
891/5 M. Busalla (1192 ft.), the culminating point of the line,
is the watershed between the Adriatic and the Tyrrhenian Sea.
to Genoa. CARIGNANO. 14. Route. 83
The last long tunnel, the Galleria dei Giovi, is upwards of 2M.
in length, and descends towards the S. Then several short cuttings.
The landscape becomes more smiling; the hills, planted with
vines and corn, are sprinkled with the villas of the Genoese.
To the right, on the loftiest summit of the mountain near
(951/9M.) Pontedecimo (282 ft.), rises the white church of the Ma-
donna della Guardia. 98M. Bolzaneto, and (100M.) Rivarolo. The
railway now crosses the Polcevéra, the stony channel of which is oc-
casionally filled with an impetuous torrent, by a handsome new bridge
with arches. On the summits of the heights to the left are towers
belonging to the fortifications of Genoa. The last stat. (1011/, M.)
S. Piér d’ Arena is a suburb of Genoa (p. 99), where travellers pro-
vided with through-tickets to or from Nice change carriages. On
the right are the lighthouse and citadel, below which the train
enters the town by a tunnel.
103 M. Genoa, see p. 86.
b. Vid Bra and Savona,
From TuRIN TO Savona, 97 M., in 51/4-6 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 70, 11 fr. 70,
8 fr. 45 ¢.; express 17 fr. 25, 12 fr. 10 c.); thence to Genoa, 27!/2M., in
11/4-2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 95, 3 fr. 50, 2fr.45c.; express 5 fr. 45, 4 fr. 75 c.)
Finest views to the right. i
From Turin to Trofarello, 8 M., see p. 81. — 121/, M. Villastellone.
A road crossing the Po leads hence to the W. to (41/2 M.) Carignano, a
town with 7800 inhab., and several handsome churches, situated on the
high-road from Turin to Nice. S. Giovanni Battista was erected by Count
Alfieri; S. Maria delle Grazie contains a monument to Bianca Paleolo-
gus, daughter of Guglielmo IV., Marquis of Montferrat, and wife of Duke
Charles I., at whose court the ‘Chevalier Bayard’ was brought up. —
Carignano, with the title of a principality, was given as an appanage to
Thomas Francis (d. 1656), fourth son of Charles Emmanuel I., from whom
the present royal family is descended.
18 M. Carmagnola, with 4000 inhabitants.
Carmagnola was the birthplace (1390) of the celebrated Condottiere
Francesco Bussone, son of a swine-herd, usually called Count of Carmag-
nola, who reconquered a considerable part of Lombardy for Duke Filippo
Maria Visconti, and afterwards, as Generalissimo of the Republic of Venice
conquered Brescia and Bergamo, and won the battle of Macalo (1427).
At length his fidelity was suspected by the Council of Ten, and he was be-
headed between the two columns in the Piazzetta (p. 241) on 5th May,
1432. Bussone’s fate is the subject of a tragedy by Manzoni.— The ‘Car-
magnole’, the celebrated republican dance and song of the French Revol-
ution, was named after this town, the home of most of the street-
musicians of Paris. The refrain of the song was: ‘Dangsons la Carmagnole !
Vive le son du canon!’
Tramway from Carmagnola to Turin, see p. 62.
231/g M. Racconigi, with a royal chateau and park, laid out in
1755 by Le Notre, the favourite residence of Carlo Alberto (d. 1849).
28 M. Cavallermaggiore (Italia; Buoi Rossi), with 5800 inhab.,
is the junction of the lines to Saluzzo and Cuneo (p. 118).
31M. Madonna del Pilone. — 36 M. Bra, the largest place on
the line, with 14,000 inhab., is the junction for Alessandria.
FroM CAVALLERMAGGIORE TO ALESSANDRIA, 61 M., in 33/,-5 hrs. (fares
{1 fr. 15, 7 fr. 80, 5 fr. 60 c.). — 8M. Bra&, see above. — 12!/2 M. Vittoria,
6 *
ad
eae
84 Route 14. MONDOVI.
whence a pleasant excursion may be made to the royal palace of Pollenzo,
with the remains of the Roman town of Pollentia. — 191/2M. Alba, with
7000 inhabitants. The cathedral of S. Lorenzo dates from the 15th cen-
tury. — Next stations Neive, Castagnole (p. 81), Costigliole, 8. Stefano Belbo,
on the Belbo, the valley of which the train traverses for some distance ;
Canelli, Calamandrana, and Nizza di Monferrato, whence a good road leads
to Acqui (p. 82). Stat. Incisa, situated on the Belbo, a considerable dis-
tance from the railway. Then Castelnuovo, Bruno, Bergamasco, Oviglio,
Cantalupo, and (64 M.) Alessandria, see p. 82.
41M. Cherasco, not visible from the line , lies at the confluence
of the Tanaro and the Stura. The train ascends the course of the
former. Stations Narzole, Monchiero, Farigliano. — 89M. Carrt.
Brancou-Line To Monpovi, 9 M., in 40 min. (fares 1 fr. 65, 4 fr. 15,
85 c.). — Mondovi (Croce di Malta; Tre Limont d’0ro), a town with 17,000
inhab., on the Zllero, with a cathedral of the 15th cent., and a loftily
situated old tower, is the best starting-point for a visit to the imposing
«Cavern of Bossea, in the Valle di Corsaglia. A carriage may be hired
at one of the inns at Mondovi for Frabosa, 9'/2M. to the 8. of Mondovi,
whence a lighter ‘calessa’ conveys travellers to the cavern (each member
of a party 7-8 fr. for the whole drive). The cavern is shown from the
beginning of June to the end of October (admission 21/, fr.; no gratuities).
About 12 M. to the S.W. of Mondovi, in the romantic and beautiful
VaL Psi0, is the *Certosa di Val Pésio, with its extensive cloisters,
now a hydropathic establishment and summer-resort (200 rooms, open
from June ist to Sept. 30th; ‘pension’ from 8 fr.). Cavour and Massimo
@Azeglio frequently sought retirement and repose in this pleasant spot.
A good trout-stream washes the walls of the Certosa,
62M. Niella. — 68M. Ceva, on the Tanaro, an industrial place
(5000 inhab.) with an old castle under which the train passes by
a tunnel.
The train now begins to cross the Maritime Alps, and reaches the
most imposing part of the line. Between this point and Savona are
numerous viaducts and no fewer than 28 tunnels. The train quits
the valley of the Tanaro and ascends. Beyond (72 M.) Sale it
passes through the Galleria del Belbo, a tunnel upwards of 3 M. in
length, and the longest on the line. — 79 M. Cengio, in the valley
of the Bormida di Millesimo.
841/)M. S. Giuseppe di Cairo, on the Bormida di Spigno,
through the valley of which the train descends to Acqui (p. 82).
Tunnels and viaducts now follow each other in rapid succession,
the loftiest of the latter being 137 ft. high. — 93 M. Santuario di
Savona, a pilgrimage-church with a large hospice for poor devotees,
founded in 1536.
97 M. Savona, and thence to (1241/2 M.) Genoa, see p. 102.
ITT. Liguria.
IO i > EG RB
16. From Genoa to Nice. Riviera di Ponente. . . . . . 100
17. Nice and its Environs. hig Tore es oA
18. From Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda. . . .. . 417
1. Baths of Valdieri. fot eS ee 118
2. From Savigliano to Saluzzo. ....,
19. From Genoa to Pisa. Riviera di Levante
From Avenza to Carrara
The Maritime Alps and the immediately contiguous Apennines (the
boundary between which is near Savona, about 20 M. to the W. of Genoa)
slope gently northwards to the Po in the form of an extensive rolling
country, and descend abruptly towards the sea to the S. The narrow
RIVIERA, Or coast-district, expands at a few points only into small plains.
The cultivated land climbs up the hill-sides in terraces, sheltered from the
N. wind, and enjoying a fine sunny aspect. While the mean temperature
at Turin is 53!/3° Fahr., it is no less than 61° at Genoa; and again, while
the temperature of January averages 31° at the former, and occasionally
falls below zero, it averages 46° at the latter, and is rarely lower than
23°. — The climate of the Riviera is therefore milder than that of Rome,
and is even favourable to the growth of the palm.
As the country differs in many respects from Piedmont, so also do its
INHABITANTS, while their Genoese dialect, which is difficult for foreigners
to understand, occupies a middle place between the Gallic patois of Upper
Italy and that of Sardinia. The historical development of the two countries
has also been widely different. The natural resource of the Ligurians, or
the inhabitants of the Riviera, was the sea, and they were accordingly known
to the Greeks at a very early period as pirates and freebooters. To what
race the Ligurians belong has not yet been ascertained. As the Greek
Massalia formed the centre of trade in S. France, with Nice as its extreme
outpost towards the E., so Genoa constituted the natural outlet for the
traffic of the Riviera. During the 3rd cent. B.C. Genoa became subject
to the Romans, who in subsequent centuries had to wage long and obstinate
wars with the Ligurians, in order to secure the possession of the military
coast-road to Spain. As late as the reign of Augustus the Roman culture
had made little progress here. At that period the inhabitants exported
timber, cattle, hides, wool, and honey, receiving wine and oil in exchange.
In the 7th cent. the Lombards gained a footing here, and thenceforth the
political state of the country was gradually altered. The W. part with
Nice belonged to the Provence, but in 1388 came into the possession of
the Counts of Savoy, forming their only access to the sea down to the
period when they acquired Genoa (1815).
The Var, which the Emp. Augustus had declared to be the boun-
dary between Italy and Gaul, continued to be so down to 1860, when, as
a reward for services rendered by Napoleon III., Italy ceded to France
the districts of Savoy (4316 sq. M.) and Nice (1436 sq. M.). While the loss
of Savoy, though the cradle of the dynasty, was not severely felt owing
to the notorious French sympathies and clerical propensities of the in-
habitants, the cession of Nice was regarded by the Italians as a national
injury. The E. part of the Riviera now forms the Province of Porto
Maurizio, 488 sq. M. in area, with 131,000 inhab. , adjoining which is the
Province of Genoa, 1669 sq. M. in area, with 750,100 inhabitants. These
provinces once constituted the Repusiic or Genoa, which in the 13th cent.
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86 Route 15. GENOA. Hotels.
became the mistress of the W. part of the Mediterranean, and afterwards
fought against Venice for the supremacy in the Levant. Genoa’s greatness
was founded on the ruin of Pisa. The Tuscan hatred of the Genoese was
embodied in the saying — ‘Mare senza pesce, montagne senza alberi,
uomini senza fede, e donne senza vergogna’, and Dante (Inf. xxxiii. 151-53)
addresses them with the words —
‘Ahi, Genovesi, uomini diversi
D’ogni costume, e pien d’ogni magagna;
Perché non siete voi del mondo spersi?’
Modern historians describe the character of the Genoese in the middle-
ages in a similar strain. The whole energy of the Genoese seems indeed
to have been concentrated on commerce and the pursuit of gain. Notwith-
standing their proud naval supremacy, they participated little in the
intellectual development of Italy, and neither possessed a school of art,
nor produced any scholars of eminence. When at length the effete re-
public was incorporated with Piedmont, it became the representative of
radical principles as contrasted with the conservatism of the royalist terri-
tory. Giuseppe Mazzini, the chief leader of the national revolutionary
party, was born at Genoa in 1808, and Garibaldi, though born at Nice
(1807), was the son of a Genoese of Chiavari. The rivalry of the once
far-famed republic with the upstart Turin, and of the restless harbour
population with the stolid Piedmontese, have of recent years been pro-
ductive of very notable results. Modern Genoa has, moreover, regained its
ancient mercantile importance, and it is in the possession of the Ligurian
coast that the maritime power of Italy chiefly lies.
15. Genoa, Italian Gendva, French Génes.
Arrival. There are two stations at Genoa. The Stazione Piazza Principe
(Restaurant), or principal station (for Alessandria, Turin, Spezia, Pisa,
and for Savona and Nice), is in the Piazza Acquaverde (PI. D, 1,2; the
goods-station only is in the Piazza del Principe). The arrangements are
admirable. A long row of omnibuses in the covered hall awaits the arri-
val of the trains. — The second station, called Stazione Piazza Brignole
(P). H, 4), at the end of the Via Serra, and connected with the first. by
means of a tunnel below the higher parts of the town, is the first place
where the Spezia and Pisa trains stop. — Travellers arriving at Genoa by
sea, and wishing to continue their journey by rail without delay, may
immediately after the custom-house examination, which takes place on
the quay, book their luggage there for their destination (taking care to
entrust it to a facchino of the dogana, fee 20c., and not to an un-
authorised bystander), and thus save much troable.
Hotels. Granp Hover Isorra, Via Roma 7 (Pl. F, 4), pleasantly
situated, with an elevator, D. incl. wine 5 fr.; Hore, TROMBETTA (Pl. a;
T, 3), once the Palace of the Admiralty, entrance Via Bogino 9; *HOTEL
DE LA VILLE (Pl. c; E, 3); HOTEL p’Ivatm & Crorx DE MALTE (Pl. b; E,3);
HOTEL DES QuaTRE Nations (Pl. d; E, 3). Average churges at these:
R. from 3, D. 5, B. 41/2, L. and A. 2-3, omnibus 1-1!/2 fr, --- ALPERGO DI
Genova (Pl. h; F, 4), near the Teatro Carlo Felice, R. 3, B. 1/2, A. tL
D. 5, L. 1/2, omnibus 1 fr.; Hoven pe France (Pl. g; EB, 3), R. from 2-3,
D. incl. wine 41/2, B. 41/2, omnibus 4 fr., A. 75, L. 75 ¢.; Hore pg Lon-
DRES, near the principal station, R. from 21/2, D. 4, A. and L. 11/2, B. 11/2,
omn. 1/2 fr.; ALBERGO DI Mizano, Via Balbi 34, near the Palazzo Reale ;
Virrorta (Pl. k; E, 2), Piazza dell’ Annunziata 16; ReBEccurino, Via Nuo-
vissima, well spoken of, with trattoria; ArBerGo & TRATTORIA DELLA
Nuova Conripenza, Via S. Sebastiano 13; *Horen Smira (English land-
lord), aegis exchange, Via Ponte Reale, unpretending, R. 13/4-2'/2, L. !/2,
A. 4/2, B. 1 fr.
Cafes. *Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice, at the corner of the
new Via Roma; “Stabilimento delle Nazioni, Via Roma and Galleria Mazzini;
*Concordia, Via Nuova, opposite the Palazzo Rosso (PI. 25; p. 95), hand-
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to Nice. MONACO. 16. Route. 109
(guide advisable; Louis Jouan of Mentone, donkey-hirer, recommended ;
the last 1/4hr. must be accomplished on foot). — To S. Agnese (Inn, poor),
situated on a serrated ridge of rock (2510 ft.), 2hrs.; returning by (2 hrs.)
Gorbio and Roccabruna to Mentone (in 4-5 hrs. more). From S. Agnese the
‘Aiguille’ (4232 ft.) may be ascended in 2-21/, hrs., also commanding a fine
view. — To Camporosso, situated 31/2 M., and Dolce Acqua, 7M. inland
from Ventimiglia (p. 106). — Comp. also p. 116.
The RoaD FROM MENTONE TO Nice, 19 M. (by carr. in 3 hrs. ; 25-30 fr.,
2-3 fr. gratuity), the so-called ‘Route de la Corniche’, traverses the most
beautiful part of the Riviera, and is far preferable to the railway. It ascends
through the most luxuriant vegetation , and commands a charming retro-
spect of Mentone and the coast as far as Bordighera. Then, as the top of
the first hill is gained, a view of Monaco (see below), to which a road de-
scends to the left. To the right of the road, higher up, Roccabruna (see below)
is visible. Then Turbia with its huge Roman tower, now a mere shell, the
remains of the Tropaea Augusti (whence the name ‘Turbia’), erected to com-
memorate the subjugation of the Ligurian tribes (A.D. 13), Another very
beautiful view is enjoyed here. To the E. the wild mountains and the
entire coast from Ventimiglia to Bordighera; W. (view in this direction
from a point a few steps above the tower) the Mediterranean, the French
coast near Antibes, the island of St. Marguerite , the Montagnes de l’Es-
térel, and other distant coast-hills. The road now enters a bleak moun-
tain-district, On the left is Zza (p. 110), a group of grey and venerable
houses with a white campanile, perched on an isolated rock rising abruptly
from the valley. The culminating point of the road is now reached,
and the wooded promontory of St. Jean (p. 116), Beauliew (p. 116), and
Villafranca (p. 116) become visible. Beyond these a view is obtained of
the beautiful valley of Mice (p. 110), with its villas, monasteries, villages,
and green hills.
The Rarnway from Mentone to Nice skirts the coast the whole
way, and affords very inferior views to the magnificent and lofty
carriage-road. It crosses the Borigli, penetrates Capo Martino
(see above) by means of a tunnel, and stops at stat. Cabbe-
Roquebrune. The village (Ital. Roccabruna) lies on the hill to
the right, in the midst of orange and lemon groves, commanded by
a ruined castle. 1051/, M. Monte Carlo, station for the Casino of
Monaco (see below).
107 M. Monaco. — Hotels. *Héret pe Paris, on a grand scale,
adjoining the Casino; adjacent, Hére~ts Brav-RivacE and pr RUSSIE 3
HOreL pE Lonpres, near the Casino, suitable for a prolonged stay; Hd-
TELS DES Bains and ConpAMINE, in the quarter La Condamine, near the
station and the sea; ANGLETERRE, Avenue du Monte Carlo; VicTorra, on
the hill, above the station; HéreL prs ANGLaIs; HérEL pEs EtTRanGERs,
with garden, R. 21/2, D. with wine 3 fr.
Carriage from the station to the town 11/2, per hr, 3fr.; two-horse
carr. to Nice 30fr.
Monaco, picturesquely situated on a bold and prominent rock,
is the capital (1500 inhab.) of the diminutive principality of that
name, to which Mentone and Roccabruna also belonged down to
1848. The princes, who were anciently renowned for their naval
exploits, exercise sovereign rights, but the customs and post-office
are in the hands of France. The palace (shown on Tues., 2-4
p.m.), which is adorned with frescoes, contains a suite of sumptu-
ously furnished apartments, and possesses a fine garden. Pleasant
promenades extend round the rocky point, which commands a
beautiful view of the sea-coast to the E., particularly striking by
110 Route 17. NICE. Hotels.
evening-light. Visitors are attracted to Monaco by the mildness
of the climate in winter, and by the sea-bathing in summer, but
the chief inducement to many is the ‘tapis vert’ at the Casino,
which stands on a promontory to the E. of the town, surrounded by
beautiful grounds (café, music twice daily; classical concerts on
Thursdays), and commanding a fine view (Casino station, see
above). The garden of the Villa Walewska, open in winter on
Thursdays from 1 to 5, is worthy of a visit.
Beyond Monaco the train passes through three long and several
shorter tunnels. 114 M. Stat. Eza; the village, situated on an
isolated rock on the right, high above the line, was once a
stronghold of Saracen freebooters, who levied contributions on the
surrounding district. 112!/,M. Beaulieu (p. 116). — 1131/p M.
Villafranca (p. 116). The train now enters the valley of the Pag-
lione by means of a tunnel nearly 1 M. in length, crosses the
stream, passes through another tunnel, and reaches the station of
(116 M.) Nice on the right bank of the river.
17. Nice and its Environs.
Comp. Map, p. 114.
Hotels. In the Promenade des Anglais (Pl. A-D, 5,4): *HOTEL DES
AneLais, *DU LUXEMBOURG, DE LA MEDITERRANKE, WESTMINSTER, DE
Romg, all first class. — By the Jardin Public (Pl. D,4): *GRANDE BRETAGNE;
ANGLETERRE, R. from 4, D. 6, B. 11/2, L. 4, A. 1 fr. — On the Quai Masséna
or Quai des Palmiers (Pl. D, E, 4): *H6rzn pe Francg, D. 6, B. 21/4, A. and
L. 2, omnibus 11/2 fr. — Quai St. Jean Baptiste or Quai Place d’ Armes
(Pl. E, F, G, 4, 5, 6): *Hérer Cosmoporitain (Chawvain), RB. 5, L. & A. 2,
D. 6, omnibus 2fr.; HOTEL DE LA PaIx; *GRAND H6rev. — In the Boulevard
Carabacel: HérEL DE Paris; EvrorE ET AMERIQUE; *HOTEL BRISTOL;
“HOTEL DE Nick, well situated, R.5, D. 41/2, B. 11/2, A.4, L. 3/4, omn. 3/4 fr.3
HoreL CARABACEL. — In the Boulevard Dubouchage (PI. E, F, 3, 4): HOTEL
Winpsor; Hérer Jutren; Héren p’Argron, ‘pens’. 10 fr. ; Hor. pu Lirro-
RAL; HOT, DES EmMprREuRS, — In the Boulevard Longchamp (PI, D, 3):
*ILEs BRITANNIQUES; *HérEL Parapis. — In the Boulevard de la Buffa,
(P1. C, D, 3): Héren Vicror1a; Hore, Du Louvre; HOTEL ET PENSION DES
PALMIERS; *SPLENDID HoreL. — In the Rue St. Etienne (Pl. Oy Deien dhs
“HOTEL RAISSAN; HOrEL-PENSION MitLET; H6rEL RoyaL. — In the Avenue
de la Gare (Pl. D, E, 2,3): Horr, PRINCE DE GALLEs ; HOTEL DES DEUX
Monpes; *HéreL pe L’UNIVERS; HOTEL DES ALPES; Matson DoRERE. —
Avenue Delphine (Pl. D, 2): *H6TEL ET RESTAURANT DU Miv1, near the
station, well spokea of, R. 21/2, B. 41/4, L. 1/4, A. 1/2 fr.3 BEAvu-SITE; *DE
Russiz£, — Place Masséna (Pl. E, 4): HoTeL Mreusik. — Rue des Ponchettes
(Pl. F,4): Héren er Pensron Suisse, on the sea, R. & A. 3, B. i/o fr.;
adjacent, *HorEL pes Princes. — In the Boulevard du Midi (Pl. E, F, 4):
Masstna; HOTEL BeaurIvaGE, with a beautiful view. — In the old town
(Pl. E, F, 4): Hérex pv’ York, Place St. Dominique ; *HOTEL DES ETRANGERS,
Rue du Pontneuf, frequented by passing travellers. — Jn the Rue de
France (Pl. A-D, 5, 4): Hore, ev Penston TaRELLI, HOTEL DU PavILLON ET
Crorx DE Marske. — Ona hill to the N. of the town, in a beautiful garden,
stands the Hore, St. BARTHELEMY, which commands a magnificent view
and is much frequented by English visitors. — Most of the hotels are
closed from the beginning of summer till the end of September. The
Grand Hétel and Hétels Cosmopolitain, de l’Univers, des Etrangers, and
Tarelli remain open throughout the whole year. — In resisting the
exorbitant demands sometimes made by the innkeepers on the death of
Cabs. NICE. 17. Route. 111
one of their guests, the traveller will receive efficient aid from the local
authorities.
Pensions. In the Promenade des Anglais: *Pension Rivoir, Pension
Anglaise. In the Rue de France: P. de la Métropole, *P. Marret. Rue Long-
champ: *P. St. Etienne. Petite Rue St. Etienne: *Pension Internationale.
Avenue Delphine: P. Genéve. At Cimiez: P. Anglaise (Villa Garin), *P. Cimiez.
— The usual charge at these houses is 7-12 fr. per day.
Restaurants. In the Avenue de la Gare: Restaurant Frangais; Res-
taurant des Deux Mondes; *Maison Dorée; *Restaurant Suisse, “Américain,
Rue Croix de Marbre: London House. Rue Macarani: Trois Suisses. In
the Corso: Restaurant du Cours, du Commerce, Place Masséna: Restaurant
National, well spoken of. — Cafés. De la Victoire, Place Masséna’; Grand
Café, in the Grand Hotel; Café Américain, in the Corso. Ices: the best
at “Rumpelmayer’s, Rue Masséna 12, — Preserved Fruits: Miiller, Place
St. Dominique; Féa, Avenue de la Gare; Escoffier, Place Masséna. —
The Beer is seldom good; best at the Brassserie Centrale, and in the
Brasserie de Strasbourg, both in the Rue du Temple. Also in most of the
restaurants and cafés; glass 30-40 c.
Bakers. Renz, Rue Paradis, German. Diedrich, Place Grimaldi, Russian.
Cabs are stationed in the
Place Charles Albert, Place Mas- | One- horse. One- horse. Two-horse.
séna, Boulevard du Pont Vieux, | with2seats.| withAseats. | with 4 seats.
and other places.
Per Drive in the town (exclusive
of some villas) ..... .| —75 | 1.95 | 1— TOO ls LeDO
From the station to the town
the following charges are
for 1 pers. in the smallest
cabs, and for 2 pers. in the
others, without luggage. . | 1— DO lye at dees LO cc
Each additional pers., as also
each larger article of lug-
gage, or drive from one
hotel to another .... .{ —% | —25 | —25 | —95 | —95 —25
CS eal eR ie cana Mia BGR Uke ys a 3— 3.50
To Villafranca, Grotte St. André,
there and back with a stay
NE lil eR MRI Bay na) 6— | 6— T— 7— 8—
Tramway from the Place Masséna to the railway-station and the har-
bour every 10 min.; to the Magnan Bridge, St. Maurice, and the Abattoir
every 20 minutes.
Omnibuses cross the town in several directions (25 c.); from the station
fo the town 30 c.; trunk 25, hat-box 10 c.; to Villafranca and Beaulieu
every 2 hrs., 30c., starting from the Pont Vieux, left bank of the Paillon;
to Monte Carlo several times daily, interior 1'/, fr., impériale 1 fr., start-
ing near the Place Charles Albert.
Horses may be hired of Nigio, Boulevard Charles-Albert 2, and Rue
St. Francois de Paule; Mouton, Rue Pastorelli, etc.; 6-10 fr. for a ride of
3-4 hrs. In winter a horse may be hired by the month for 250-350 fr., in
summer for less. — Donkeys generally 4 fr. (but in the height of the season
sometimes 5fr.) per day, and 1 fr. for the attendant; half-day 2fr.
Markets. The principal market is held in winter in the Cours (till
11 a.m.) and in summer in the Boul. du Pont-Neuf; another market is
held in the old town, in front of the cathedral. — Fish-market on the
terraces at the back of the Boul. du Midi.
Booksellers. Librairie Galignani, Quai des Palmiers 15 (branch-establish-
ment of the well-known Paris firm; English and French books), with cir-
culating library and reading-room; Librairie Etrangére of Barbéry Freres,
with circulating library, Jardin Public 5. Visconti’s reading-room, Rue
du Cours 2, with garden; Jougla, Rue Gioffredo 55; Cauvin, Rue de la
Préfecture 6.
day |night| day | night| day pan
+
112 Route 17. NICE. Climate.
Public Library (Pl. 6; E,4), Rue St. Francois de Paule 2, open on
week-days 9-4; it contains a small collection of Roman antiquities.
Natural History Museum, Place Garibaldi 6; adm. on Tues., Thurs.,
and Sat., 12-3.
Post Office, Rue St. Francois de Paule 20 (Pl. D, 4), 7 a.m. to 6, in
summer to 7 p.m.; Sun. 7-12, 4-6 only. — Telegraph Office, Rue du Pont-
Neuf 14, adjoining the Préfecture; another office, Place Grimaldi 9:
Physicians. Drs. Gurney, Macé, Crosby, and West, English. Drs.
Ziircher, Lippert, Camerer, and Meyrhofer; Drs. Jantzon, and Proll, homceo-
pathists, all German. — Dentists: Hall (American), Preterre, both in the
Place Masséna; Fiewx, Quai Masséna; Ninck, Rue Masséna 30. — Chemists:
Pharmacie Anglaise, Quai Masséna; Draghi, Rue de France; Fouque, Bou-
levard du Pont Vieux; Leoncini, Place St. Etienne; Vigon, Rue Gioffredo ;
Pharmacie Alsacienne, Rue Gioffredo 1; Sue, Avenue de la Gare. — Mineral
Waters: Claud, Rue Masséna 26.
American Consul: Mr. W. H. Vesey.
Bankers. Crédit Lyonnais, Rue Gioffredo; Lacroia, Rue du Cours;
Caisse de Crédit, Rue Gubernatis.
Baths. Warm Baths: Bains Polythermes, Rue St. Frangois de Paule 8;
Bains des Quatre Saisons, Place du Jardin Public 8; Bains Macarani, Bains
Masséna, Rue Masséna. Turkish Baths: Hammam de Nice, Rue de la
Buffa 2. Sea-baths opposite the Promenade des Anglais and at the Quai
du Midi, 1 fr. (including attendant).
Shops. The best are on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste and the Quai Mas-
séna. ‘Marqueterie’ (inlaid wood-work): Gimedle Fils, & Co., Quai St.
Jean Baptiste 9; Rueger, Rue du Pont Neuf 3, and others. Photographers:
Numa Blanc, Promenade des Anglais; Ferret, Rue Gioffredo.
Cercles. Cercle Masséna, Place Masséna; Cercle Méditerranée, formerly
the Casino, Promenade des Anglais, embellished with the armorial bear-
ings of different states; Cercle Philharmonique, Rue du Pont-Neuf. Concerts,
lectures, and other entertainments are given during the season at the
Athénée, Boul. de la Bouffa. — The Casino Municipal, an extensive new
establishment on the Paillon, opposite the Hétel Cosmopolitain, is finely
fitted up and will contain a large restaurant, concert-rooms, etc. The
Jetée Promenade, also in progress, is a long timber-built pier, resembling
those at English watering-places, with a restaurant, etc,
Theatres. Thédtre Francais, Rue St. Michel, operas, comedies, etc.
Opéra Comique, in the same street. A large new theatre, in place of the Théatre
National burned down in 1881, is to be erected in the Boul. du Midi.
Military Music daily in the Jardin Public, 2-4 o'clock.
Steamboats (companies: Fraissinet, Place Bellevue 6, on the quay;
Florio; Valery Freres et Fils, Quai Lunel 14) to Genoa, Marseilles}, and
Corsica (Bastia, see p. 459).
House Agents, Samaritani, Lattes, Dalgoutte , and Jougla, to whom
a percentage is paid by the proprietors. A more advantageous bargain
may therefore be made without their intervention. Houses and apartments
to let are indicated by tickets. A single visitor may procure 1-2 furnished
rooms for the winter in the town for 250-700 fr.; suites of apartments
are let for 1000-5000 fr., villas for 3000-8000 fr. and upwards.
The hirer should not take possession until a contract on stamped paper
has been signed by both parties, containing stipulations with regard to
damage done to furniture and linen, compensation for breakages, etc.
This is the only way to avoid the disputes which are apt to arise on the
termination of the contract. Nice has the reputation of being an expensive
place, but it is at the same time possible to live here, as in other large
towns, more economically than in places like Cannes or Mentone. At the
pensions situated at a distance from the sea, but in well-sheltered spots,
the charges are comparatively moderate.
English Churches in the Rue de France, and in the Rue St. Michel;
service also at Carabacel. Scotch Church, corner of Boul. de Longchamp
and Rue St. Etienne.
Climate. The bay of Nice is sheltered from the N., N.E., and N.W.
winds by the lower terraces of the Maritime Alps (culminating in Mont
History. NICE, 17. Route. 113
Chauve, Italian Monte Calvo, 2672 ft.), a natural barrier to which it owes
its European reputation for mildness of climate. The mean winter tem-
perature is 10-15° Fahr. higher than that of Paris, summer temperature
5-10° lower. Frost is rare. The Mistral, or N.W. wind, the scourge of
Provence, is seldom felt, being intercepted by the Montagnes du Var and
de l’Estérel. The E. wind, however, which generally prevails in spring
is trying to delicate persons, and the clouds of dust raised by it in the
Promenade des Anglais have given rise to numerous complaints. The most
sheltered situations are the Boulevard Carabacel and the Quartiers Bran-
colar and Cimiez, in the last of which the air is generally pure and free
from dust. Three different climatic zones are distinguished and recom-
mended to different classes of patients, viz. the neighbourhood of the sea,
the plain, and the hills. Sunset is a critical period. As the sun disappears,
a sensation is often felt as if a damp mantle were being placed on the
shoulders, but this moisture lasts 1-2 hours only. The rainy season usually
begins early in October and lasts about a month. The dry, warm, and
bracing climate of Nice is specially beneficial for chronic invalids, who
are free from fever and pain, convalescents, and elderly people. The town
also affords greater comfort and variety than any other place in the Ri-
viera. — The result of the observations made at the Meteorological Station,
established in 1877, are posted up on the band-kiosk in the Jardin Public.
Nice, Ital. meat the capital (53,400 inhab.) of the French Dé-
partement des Alpes Maritimes, was founded by the Phocian in-
habitants of Marseilles in the 5th cent. B.C., and named Nicaea.
Down to 1388 it belonged to the County of Provence, and afterwards
to the Dukes of Savoy; in 1792 it was occupied by the French, in
1514 restored to Sardinia, and in 1860 finally annexed to France
together with Savoy. Nice was the birthplace of the French general
Bineedne (in 1758, d. 1817) and of Giuseppe Garibaldi (in 1807,
1. 1882). The dialect of the natives is a mixture of Provencal and
Italian.
In winter Nice is the rendezvous of invalids as well as persons
in robust health from all parts of Europe, especially from England,
Russia, and Germany, who assemble here to escape from the rigours
of a northern winter. In summer the town is deserted.
Nice is beautifully situated on the broad Baie des Anges, which
opens towards the 8., at the mouth of the Paglione, or Paillon
(a small stream, frequently dried up). The broad and stony bed
of the river, with handsome quays on each bank, bisects the town.
On the left bank is the OLtp Town, with its narrow, dirty lanes,
which however have been superseded by better streets near the
shore (Boulevard du Midi and Promenade du Cours). On the right
bank is the SrRANGERS’ QuARTER, which already surpasses the old
town in extent, and is intended to occupy the entire space bounded
on the W. by the brook Magnan, and on the N. by the railway
(the Quartiers de la Croix de Marbre and des Beaumettes stretch
along the coast to the W., the Boulevard Carabacel and the Quartiers
Brancolar and Cimiez to the N.E. along the bank of the Paillon).
Near the station is a beautiful alley of Eucalyptus trees (Euca-
lyptus Globulus). In the Avenue de la Gare, leading from the
station to the town, rises the church of Notre- Dame (Pl. 19), erected
by Lenormant of Paris in the Gothic style. — A Marble Cross in
BaEpDEKeR, Italy I. 6th Edit. 8
114 --Route 17. NICE. Jardin Public.
the Rue de France, commemorating the meeting of Charles V. and
Francis I. in 1538, which was effected through the intervention
of Pope Paul III., has given its name (Croix de Marbre) to this
quarter of the town. Opposite rises a Pius Column, or monument
erected in honour of the promulgation of the doctrine of the Im-
maculate Conception by Pope Pius IX. — The SquarB MASsENA
(Pl. E, F, 4),'a broad space formed by covering in the Paillon
between the Pont Vieux and Pont Neuf, is embellished by a Statue
of Masséna (p. 113) in bronze , erected in 1867; in front Clio is
represented on the pedestal writing his name on the page of history ;
at the sides are reliefs.
The Jardin Public (Pl. D, 4; military music, see p. 112) at the
embouchure of the Paillon, and the “Promenade des Anglais ad-
joining it on the W., which was laid out by English residents in
1822-24, and greatly extended in {862, are the principal resorts of
visitors. These grounds stretch along the coast for {1/o M., as far
as the brook Magnan, and are bordered with handsome hotels and
villas (at the beginning of the promenades is the Cerele Médi-
terranée, mentioned p. 112). On the left bank of the Paillon, which
+s crossed here by the Pont Napoléon, they are continued by the
Boulevard du Midi, which is planted with palms.
To the E. of the town rises the Castle Hill, 320 ft. in height (PI.
F, G,4; ascent from the N. or E. side, 20 min. ), crowned by the ruins
of a castle destroyed by the Duke of Berwick under Louis XIV. in
1706, now converted into beautiful grounds, where palms, oranges,
and aloes flourish in profusion. The platform on the
summit, erected in honour of Napoleon LI., commands an admirable
view in every direction: S. the Mediterranean; W. the coast, the
promontory of Antibes, the two Iles de Lérins, the mouth of the
Var (which down to 1860 formed the boundary between France and
Sardinia), below the spectator Nice itself; N. the valley of the
Paglione, the monasteries of Cimiez and St. Pons, in the distance
the castle of S. André, Mont Chauve, the Aspremont, and the Alps ;
E., the mountains, Fort Montalban, and the promontory of Mont-
boron (p. 116), The 5. slope of the castle-hill, which descends
precipitously towards the sea, is called the Rauba Capeu (‘hat-
robber’, owing to the prevalence of sudden gusts). — The Ceme-
teries, with the exception of the English, are on the N. side of the
castle-hill.
At the base of the castle-hill on the E., where a house opposite
the dogana was destroyed by a landslip in the winter of 1871, lies
the small Harbour (PI. F, 4), called Limpia from an excellent spring
(limpida) which rises near the KE. pier. It is accessible to small
vessels only; those of large tonnage cast anchor in the bay of Villa-
franca (p. 116). The harbour is now being enlarged. The Place
Bellevue, adjoining the harbour, is embellished with a Statue of
Charles Felix, King of Sardinia, in marble, erected in 1830.
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Geograph. Anstalt von Wagner’é& Debes Leipzig
Environs of Nice. NICE. 17. Route. 115
To the N. of the town are the villas Chateau Neuf and Orangini,
both in the Quartier Brancolar. In the Quartier St. Philippe is the
Villa Bermond, where Nicholas, heir-apparent to the crown of
Russia, died in 1865. The site of the room in which he died is
now occupied by a tasteful chapel (Pl. B, 2). The garden contains
about 10,000 orange-trees.
The Environs of Nice, with their attractive villas and luxur-
iant vegetation, afford a variety of beautiful excursions.
The Franciscan monastery of Cimiez, Ital. Cimella, is situated
3 M. to the N. of Nice. The best route to it is by the road passing
St. Pons (see below). The monastery (two pictures by Bréa in
the chapel; ladies admitted to the chapel only), erected in 1450,
stands on the foundations of an ancient temple of Diana in the
Roman town of Cemenelium, of which part of an amphitheatre
(210 ft. long, 175 ft. wide), and a quadrangular structure, com-
monly called a ‘Temple of Apollo’, still remain. Traces of baths and
other buildings have also been discovered. We may return by a
footpath, which on the top of the hill intersects the ruins of the
above-mentioned amphitheatre.
The Villa Clary, to which the public are admitted, below Ci-
miez, on the road to St. André, possesses the finest orange and
lemon-trees at Nice and many rare plants.
A good carriage-road ascends on the right bank of the Paglione
to the (40 min.) monastery of St. Pons, founded in 775 on the spot
where St. Pontius, a Roman senator, suffered martyrdom in 261.
It was destroyed by the Saracens in 970, and the present edifice
erected in 999. The treaty by which the County of Nice was an-
nexed to the Duchy of Savoy was concluded here in 1388. [This
excursion may be combined with a visit to Cimiez (see above) by
returning by the road which leads from St. Pons to Cimiez through
the olive-plantations on the hill.]| — The chateau of St. André
(restaurant, closed in summer), which is reached in 1/g hr. more,
built in 1687, is now unoccupied. About 1/, hr. farther up the valley
is the insignificant grotto Les Cluses de St. André (adm. 50 ¢.), or
rather a natural bridge over a brook, crossed by the road. An
avenue of cypresses leads from the chateau to the grotto.
The excursion may be extended still farther in this direction.
From the Grotto of St. André we follow the Torretta road in the de-
solate rocky ravine a little farther, and then ascend to the left by
the new road in several windings to the village of Falicon, the
highest point of which affords an admirable view. — From Falicon
we may return by the road to the S. to Nice (or by the less beauti-
ful and very steep, but shorter path via Cimiez), or proceed farther
towards the N. to *Aspremont, 9!/.M. from Nice. The road is good
the whole way, and commands a fine view. Near Aspremont we obtain
an excellent survey of the valley of the Var and of the Alps.
Farther up the valley of St. André, 7 M. from Nice, lies the
8 *
116 Route 17. VILLAFRANCOA
atiquated village of Torretta, with the picturesque ruin of that
name (Fr. La Tourette). The tower of the castle commands a very
singular survey of the sterile mountain scene, especially of Mont
Chauve, the Aspremont, and the deserted village of Chateau Neuf,
perched on a barren ridge of rock ; to the S. Montalban and the sea.
About 11/. M. farther is the dilapidated village of Chateau
Neuf, founded on the ruins of old fortifications, and probably used
in the 15th and 16th cent. by the inhabitants of Nice as a refuge
from Turkish invaders. It has recently been abandoned by most
of its inhabitants on account of the want of water, and affords an-
other fine view.
To the E. of the harbour La Limpia rises the Montboron, a
promontory 890 ft. high, which separates Nice from Villafranca. The
summit, reached in 11/) hr., commands an extensive prospect. The
mountains of Corsica are visible towards the S. in clear weather.
The Roap To VinLAFRANCA (2 M.; comp. Pl. H, 4), constructed
by the French government, leads round the promontory of Mont-
boron and passes a number of villas, the most conspicuous of which
is the Villa Smith, a palatial red building in the Oriental style. Near
this village the new ‘*Route Forestiére de Montboron’ ascends to the
left, commanding a superb view of Nice and the numerous villas
of the environs; it traverses the whole of the hill of Montboron,
leads round the Fort Montalban, and at length unites with the old
road to Villafranca. — *Villafranca, Fr. Villefranche (carr. from
Nice, see p. 141; rowing-boat 10 fr.), very beautifully situated on
the Bay of Villafranca, which is enclosed by olive-clad heights,
founded in 1295 by Charles IJ. of Anjou, king of Sicily, is now
a station of the Mediterranean squadron of the French fleet. The
railway-station (see p. 110) lies below the village, close to the sea.
If we follow the road for 11/5 M. farther, a road to the right,
crossing the railway by a stone bridge, will lead us to (3/4 M.)
Beaulieu (rail. stat. to the left of the bridge , see p. 110), an in-
significant village situated in the midst of rich plantations of olives,
figs, carob-trees (p. 108), lemons, and oranges. a of the olive-
trees are SINE S large, one of them measuring 22 ft. in cireum-
ference. Beaulieu is much better sheltered from wind than is
Nice, and is becoming a favourite winter-resort. It lies in a wide
bay, bounded on the S. by the long peninsula of St. Jean. At the
foot of the latter lies the village of S. Giovanni, or St. Jean (dear
inn), 13/4 M. from Beaulieu, a favourite resort of excursionists
from Nice. Tunny fishing is successfully carried on here in February,
March, and April. At the extremity of the peninsula are the ruins of
an old Saracenic castle, destroyed in 1706 in the reign of Louis XIV.
(see p. 114), and the ruined chapel of St. Hospice. Instead of pro-
ceeding to St. Jean by the above route, the traveller may be ferried
across the bay to the creek of Passable (60 c.), and thence cross the
peninsula on foot to St. Jean,
SOSPELLO. 18. Route. 117
On the W. Srpx of Nice pleasant walks may be taken in the
valley of the Magnan (p. 113), in which a road ascends to (2 M.)
the church of La Madeleine. The beautiful, sheltered banks of
the Var, which falls into the Baie des Anges, "33/4 M. to the W. of
Nice, are also worthy of a visit (one day; carr. with two horses,
20-25 fr.; also a railway-station, comp. p. 23).
18. From Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda.
{401/2 M. — Messacerres to Cuneo (86!/2 M.) in 18-22 hrs. (fares 25
and 22fr.). Rarway from Cuneo to Turin (54 M.) in 3hrs. (fares 9fr.
95c., Tfr., 5fr.). — Office at Nice in the Hétel de PUnivers (p. 110), not
far from the French theatre; at Zurin, in the Via Cavour.
This is a very attractive route, especially for those coming from Turin.
The views during the descent from the Col di Tenda to the Mediterranean
are strikingly beautiful. In winter the road is often impassable for a
considerable time.
The road leads from Nice, on the bank of the Paglione, through
the villages of La Trinité-Vittoria and Drappo, beyond which it
crosses and quits the river.
12M. (from Nice) Scarena, Fr. Escaréne. The road hence to
Sospello traverses a sterile and unattractive district. The barren
rocks which enclose the bleak valley are curiously stratified at
places. The road ascends to the Col di Braus (4232 ft.). To
the S., on a lofty rock to the right, is seen the castle of Castillon,
or Castiglione. At the foot of the pass on the E. lies —
251/9 M. Sospello, French Sospel (1174 ft.; Hétel Carenco), sit-
uated in the valley of the Bevera (affluent of the Roja, see below),
in the midst of olive-plantations, and surrounded by lofty moun-
tains. [From Sospello to (14 M.) Mentone, see p. 108.] The road
now ascends to the Col i Brouis (2871 ft.). Near the summit of
the pass a final view is obtained of the Mediterranean. Scenery
unattractive, mountains bleak and barren. Then a descent to —
38 M. Giandola (1250 ft.; Hétel des Etrangers; Poste), $n a
grand situation at the base of lofty rocks. Breglio, a town with 2500
inh. and the ruined castle of Trivella, lies lower down on the right.
The road now ascends the narrow valley of the Roja, which
falls into the sea near Ventimiglia (p. 106). Saorgio, rising in ter-
races on a lofty rock on the right, with the ruins of a castle in the
Oriental style, destroyed by the French in 1792, commands the
road. On the opposite side is a monastery of considerable extent.
The valley contracts, so as barely to leave room for the river and
the road between the perpendicular rocks. Several small villages
are situated at the points where the valley expands. Beyond
(43 M.) Fontana the road crosses the Italian frontier. The southern
character of the vegetation now disappears. 48 M. S. Dalmazzo,
where an old abbey is fitted up as a hydropathic establishment,
frequented in summer by some of the winter residents of Nice.
501/2M. Tenda(Hétel Royal; Hotel Impérial) lies at the 5. base
118 Route 18. CUNEO.
of the Col di Tenda. A few fragments of the castle of the unfor-
tunate Beatrice di Tenda (comp. Binasco, p. 176) are picturesquely
situated on a rock here.
The road traverses a dreary valley by the side of the Roja and
ascends by 69 zigzags on the barren mountain, passing several re-
fuges, to the summit of the Col di Tenda, or di Cornio (6145 ft.),
where the Maritime Alps (W.) terminate and the Apennines (E.)
begin. The view embraces the chain of the Alps from Mont Iséran
to Monte Rosa; Monte Viso is not visible from the pass itself, but
is seen a little beyond it, near the Ath Refuge. The descent is very
steep. The road follows the course of the Vermanagna to —
751/, M. Limone (3668 ft.; Hotel de la Poste), an Italian excise-
station, and then becomes more level. The valley of the Ver-
managna, which is now traversed, is at some places enclosed by
wooded heights, at others by precipitous limestone cliffs. To the
the left rises the magnificent pyramid of the Monte Viso (12,670 ft. ).
Stations Robillante, Roccavione, Borgo S. Dalmazzo (4400 inhab. )
861/. M. Cuneo, or Coni (1499 ft.; Albergo della Barra di Ferro,
good cuisine; Albergo di Superga), a town with 11,500 inhab., at
the confluence of the Stura and the Gesso , once strongly fortified.
After the battle of Marengo the works were dismantled in accor-
dance with a decree of the three consuls and were converted into
pleasure-grounds. In the Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele is a monu-
ment to Giuseppe Barbaroux, by Dini, erected in 1879. The Fran-
eiscan Church, like most churches of this order beyond the Alps,
is in the Gothic style (42th cent.). Pleasant walk to the Madonna
degli Angeli, at the confluence of the Gesso and the Stura.
About 12 M. to the §.E. of Cuneo lies the Certosa di Val Pésio, sec p. BA.
— In the Val di Gesso, about 15 M. to the S.W. of Cuneo, are the Baths
of Valdieri.
The Rarnway to Turin intersects the fertile plain, bounded on
the W. by the Maritime Alps, and, farther distant, the Cottian
Alps, and on the E. by the Apennines. Centallo, the first station,
with 4800 inhab., possesses remains of medieval walls and towers.
Station La Maddalena; 101 M. Fossano, an episcopal residence,
with 17,000 inhab., on the left bank of the Stura, finely situated
on an eminence, with ramparts and a medieval castle.
1081/, M. Savigliano (Corona) is a pleasant town on the Maera,
enclosed by old fortifications. The principal church contains pictures
by Mulinari (1721-93), a native of Savigliano, surnamed Carrac-
cino, as an imitator of the Carracci.
Brancnu-Line To SaLuzzo, 10 M. (halfway-station Lagnasco), in 1/2 hr.
(fares 1 fr. 85, 1 fr. 30, 95 c.). Saluzzo is the capital of the province
(formerly a marquisate) of that name, with 15,800 inhabitants. The higher
part of the town, with its precipitous streets, affords a fine prospect over the
Piedmontese plain. A monument was erected here in 1863 to Silvio Pellico,
the poet (d. 1854), who was born here in 1788. — Tramway to Turin, see p. 62.
At (114 M.) Cavallermaggiore the line unites with the Turin
and Savona railway, see p. 83. — 140!/. M. Turin, see p. 60.
\
\ bon gitudine Est di Parigi
aN
= (hilometri. 1: 500.000 (ee EL £
Geograph. Anstalt von Wagner « Debes. 5
119
19. From Genoa to Pisa. Riviera di Levante.
104'/, M. Rariway in 4!/o-71/, hrs. (fares 19fr., 13 fr. 30, 9fr. 50c¢.;
express 20 fr. 90, 14 fr. 65c.). — Some of the trains start from the Stazione
Piazza Principe at Genoa, stopping, with the exception of the express, at
the Stazione Piazza Brignole, while others start from the latter station. —
The finest views are from the side of the train opposite that on which
passengers enter at Stazione Piazza Principe. Travellers by the night
express loose all the scenery. Beyond Nervi, however, the view is greatly
circumseribed by the numerous tunnels, which also make it dangerous to
stretch the head out of the carriage-window. — CarrtiaGre anp Parr from
Genoa via Porto Venere to La Spezia, about 125 fr. and fee; with heavy
luggage extra-horses (25 fr. each) are necessary. Comp. p. 100.
? . . .
Genoa, see p. 86. The train backs out of the Stasione Piazza
Principe, and then starts in the opposite (E.) direction, passing
through a long tunnel under the higher parts of the town (transit
of 4-5 min.).
2M. Stazione Piazza Brignole, where there is generally a
prolonged stoppage. — To the left we obtain a view of the fortress-
crowned heights around Genoa (comp. p. 88).
The train, which at places runs parallel with the road, now
follows the *Rivigsra pi LevANTE, which is less remarkable for
luxuriant vegetation than the Riviera di Ponente (p. 100), but
presents almost more striking scenery. The line is carried through
the numerous promontories by means of cuttings and tunnels, of
which last there are no fewer than eighty, some of them of consid-
erable length. The villages generally present a town-like appear-
ance, with their narrow streets and lofty and substantial houses,
closely built on the narrow plain of the coast, or in short and
confined valleys, and mostly painted externally as at Genoa.
The train crosses the Bisagno, generally an insignificant brook,
and passes through the hill on which S. Francesco d’Albaro is
situated by means of a tunnel. — 4 M. Sturla. To the right
stretches the beautiful expanse of the Mediterranean ; to the left we
enjoy a view of the olive-clad slopes of the Apennines, sprinkled
with country houses. A tunnel. — 5M. Quarto. A tunnel, —
6M. Quinto, with numerous villas, and dense lemon plantations,
among which rise several fine palm-trees. Three tunnels.
T1/y M. Nervi. — Hotels. *Héren Vicrorra, near the station and
the sea, R. 2-3, B. 11/4, déj. 2'/2, D. 4, ‘pens’. 8-10 fr.; *Héren ev PENsIon
ANGLAISE, ‘pens.’ in winter 11-16fr.; ALBERGO RisroRANTE DI NERvI, un-
pretending. — Pensions Fayod (7-9 fr.), Roeder (with garden; 8-10 fr.),
Pizzi, Bellevue, Cavour. — Furnished Apartments. Suites of 3-5 rooms
300-500 fr., villas 400-4000 fr. and upwards for the season. The physician
should be consulted in taking a dwelling for an invalid.
Physicians. Dr. Thomas, Castello Ponzone; Dr. Schetelig, Pension
Anglaise. — Chemist: Gallo, in the main street.
Post Office, at Gallo’s drug-store in the chief street. Telegraph Office
opposite.
English Church Service in the Hétel*Anglaise.
Nervi, a small town with 8000 inhab., surrounded by lemon-
groves, has of late come into notice as a winter-residence, owing
to its sheltered situation and mild climate. Warmer and freer from
120 Route 19. CHIAVARI. From Genoa
wind than Pegli, it is recommended to patients who are unable to
take active exercise but wish to be in the open air as much as
possible. Nervi, Quinto, and Sturla, are frequented by Italians in
summer for the sake of the sea-bathing, in spite of the rocky nature
of the coast. Among the handsome villas the finest are Villa Gro-
pallo (the beautiful park of which is open to visitors at the Pension
Anglaise after 1 p.m.), Villa Serra, Villa Croce, and the pagoda-
like Villa Ponzone, all surrounded with well-kept grounds contain-
ing orange-trees, aloes, palms, and other varieties of luxuriant
vegetation. A stroll should be taken along the rock-bound and
picturesque sea-beach, which is skirted by a well-sheltered path,
free from dust. Another pleasant walk is along the road to the
church of 8. Ilario, halfway up the Monte Giugo, which commands
an admirable view of the Riviera di Levante as far as the pictur-
esque headland of Portofino and of the Riviera di Ponente with the
Maritime Alps in the background.
Many of the beauties of the scenery are lost to railway-travellers
owing to the numerous tunnels through which the train now passes.
9M. Bogliasco; 10 M. Pieve di Sori; 11 M. Sori, where we obtain
a noble survey of the sea and the valley from the viaduct (in three
stories) which passes high above the town and the rivulet. — 21 M.
Recco ; 14/4 M. Camogli, on the coast to the right.
The village of Ruta, situated on the height, and commanding an ad-
mirable view towards Genoa, is about 2 M. from Camogli by the road;
from it we easily attain the summit of the promontory of Portofino (1980 ft.;
see below), which affords a magnificent survey of the whole Gulf of Genoa.
The train passes through the long Tunnel of Ruta, which pene-
trates the promontory of S. Margherita, and reaches the fertile plain
with its numerous villas, and the bay of Rapallo.
{71/5 M. S. Margherita (*Hétel Bellevue, with garden, R. 3,
D. 4, B. 14/g, A. 1, L. 1/9 fr.) lies on the coast below and is fre-
quented as a winter residence by the English.
A beautiful Excursion may be made hence by boat (4fr.), or by walking
along the coast, to (83.M.) Portofino, a small seaport concealed behind the
Montefine, with two old castles, now the property of Mr. Brown, the Eng-
lish consul, one of which, situated at the extreme point of the promon-
tory (/2 hr. from Portofino) commands a splendid prospect. Halfway to
Portofino is the suppressed monastery of Cervara, where, after the battle
of Pavia, Francis I. of France, when detained here by contrary winds on
the journey from Genoa to Madrid, was once imprisoned.
191/. M. Rapallo (Hétel de 0 Europe, well spoken of, ‘pension’
71/5-10 fr.; Albergo della Posta), a small seaport with 6000 inhab.,
who make lace and carry on a brisk trade in olive-oil. Rapallo is
also a winter-resort. Near it is the pilgrimage-church of the Ma-
donna di Montallegro. — 21M. Zoagli, prettily situated. The
road between Rapallo and Chiavari affords one of the prettiest drives
in Italy, and the traveller should if possible here travel by carriage
instead of by train.
241/5 M. Chiavari (Fenice, mediocre, R. 3, B. 1, L. 4g, A.
1/, fr.; Trattoria § Albergo del Negrino, with garden), a town with
to Pisa. SESTRI LEVANTE. 19. Route. 121
12,100 inhab., is situated at the mouth of the Entella, where the
mountains recede in a wide semicircle. Chiavari manufactures lace
and light chairs (sedie di Chiavari), and possesses silk factories
and shipbuilding yards. — The train now traverses a very fertile
district.
251/9 M. Lavagna, a ship-building place, is the ancestral seat
of the Counts Fieschi. Sinibaldo de’ Fieschi, professor of law at Bo-
logna, and afterwards elevated to the papal throne as Pope Inno-
cent IV. (1243-54), the powerful opponent of Emp. Frederick II.,
was born here. The train passes through along tunnel and reaches —
281/5 M. Sestri Levante (Grand Hotel, a large new building
with a palm-garden; Hétel del’ Europe, bargaining necessary; /talia,
unpretentious), picturesquely situated on a bay which is terminated
by a promontory. The gardens of the Marchesa Piuma on the pen-
insula command a beautiful view (admission on application).
The Hien Roap From Sestri To Spezia, which is far superior to the rail-
way in point of scenery (carriage and pair, 45fr.), turns inland and ascends
the scantily wooded mountains in long windings, affording fine retrospects
of the peninsula and valley (the village in the latter is Casarza). Farther
on, the village of Bracco becomes visible on the left; then to the right
a view is again disclosed of the sea, near which the road leads. The
village on the coast below is Moneglia (see below). Then a gradual
ascent through a somewhat bleak district to the Osteria Baracca (2236 ft.),
whence the road descends into a pleasant valley in which lies the village
of Baracca. After a slight ascent it next traverses a well cultivated
district to Pogliasca (Europa), in the valley of the impetuous Vara, an
affluent of the Magra, which falls into the sea near Sarzana. The road
skirts the broad, gravelly channel of the river for some distance, then
diverges to the left and enters a wooded tract, in which beautiful chestnuts
predominate. Beyond Baracca the sea does not again come into view,
until the last height before Spezia is attained, whence a magnificent
prospect is enjoyed of the bay and the precipitous mountains of Carrara,
or Alpi Apuane, as the whole range is called.
Beyond Sestri the mountains recede from the sea, which the
train also leaves for a short time. A great number of tunnels are
now passed through in rapid succession; several fine views of the
sea and the coast to the right. 351/5 M. Moneglia lies close to the
sea; 371/, M. Deiva, a village at the entrance to a side-valley;
40 M. Framura; 4141/5 M. Bonassola; 43 M. Lévanto (Albergo Na-
zionale, ‘pens.’ D-6fr.), a small town of 5000 inhab., with partially
preserved fortifications, a small Giardino Pubblico, and well-
equipped marine baths. Again a succession of tunnels. 46 M.
Monterosso; 48.M. Vernazza; 50 M. Corniglia; 54 M. Manarola;
D11/9 M. Riomaggiore. Before reaching Spezia the train passes
through four more tunnels, the last of which is very long (transit
of 7 min. ).
d71/, M. La Spezia. — Hotels. “Croce pr Matra, handsomely fitted
up, R. 3'/2, D. incl. wine 4!/2, A. 1, L. 1/2, omnibus 4, ‘pens.’ 81/2-12 fr. ;
“GRAND HOTEL Spezia, near the railway-station, R. 3'/2, D. 5, B. 1/2,
A. 1, L. 3/4 fr.; *Ivatia, with a large garden, a little less expensive.
These three all command a view of the sea. — ALBERGO NAZIONALE, in
the Giardino Pubblico, with restaurant, Italian, good cuisine; Locanpa
DELLA GRAN BRETAGNA, commercial; Postra, Corso Cavour; HérEeL SPEzIA.
122 Route 19. LA SPEZIA. From Genoa
Cafés. “Café del Corso, near the Giardino Pubblico; *Zilvetico, near
the Teatro Civico.
Chemist. Fossati, Via del Prione.
Baths. Warm baths at the two first-named hotels, and adjoining the
Hotel Italia. — Sea-baihs in summer on the beach to the N., 50 c.
Post Office in the Corso Cavour (8-12 a. m. and 2-6 p. m.). — Telegraph
Office: Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele, and Via Fossi 7 (open till midnight).
Boat with one rower, 1 fr. per hour.
English Church; service also in the Hétel Croce di Malia.
La Spezia, a town with 10,700 inhab., is charmingly situated
at the N.W. angle of the Golfo della Spezia, between two rocks
crowned with forts, and possesses one of the largest, safest, and
most convenient harbours in Europe, the Lunai Portus of the Ro-
mans. Since 1861 La Spezia has been the chief war-harbour of
Italy, and extensive improvements are now being carried out. The
Royal Dockyard on theS.W. side of the town, constructed by Gen-
eral Chiodo, to whom a statue has been erected at the entrance,
is a large establishment, 150 acres in extent (admission on written
application to the Comando Generale della Darsena). The marine
artillery magazines in the bay of S. Vito cover an area of 100 acres.
Spezia is also a trading place of some importance. In summer the
sea-baths, and in winter the mildness of the climate attract numer-
ous visitors. The air is genial and humid, and the vegetation of a
southern character. The olive-oil of the environs is esteemed. Plea-
sant walks on the coast.
A delightful Excursion may be made to Porto Venere on the W.
side of the bay (two-horse carriage in 11/2, hr., 10 fr.; boat in 2-2!/2 hrs.,
8-10 fr.; the former preferable), on the site of the ancient Portus Veneris.
A most charming prospect is enjoyed from the ruins of the church of S.
Pietro, rising above the sea, and supposed to occupy the site of the
old temple of Venus. Opposite lies the fortified island of Palmaria. Beau-
tiful excursions may also be taken on the E. side of the bay, to S.
Terenzo and Lerici, to which a screw-steamer runs thrice daily ((fr.),
starting from the Molo of the bay.
Four tunnels. — 641/) M. Arcola, with a conspicuous campanile.
The train passes through a long tunnel, and crosses the broad Magra,
which was in ancient times the boundary between Italy and Liguria.
671/, M. Sarzana, Rom. Sergiana, or Luna Nova, from its
having superseded the ancient Luna, with the picturesque forti-
fication of Sarzanella, constructed by Castruccio Castracani (p. 352),
and a handsome Cathedral of white marble in the Italian Gothic
style, begun in 1355. Pop. 10,000. In 1467 the place fell into the
hands of the Florentines under Lorenzo de’ Medici, from whom it
was again wrested by Charles VIII. of France; it subsequently be-
longed to the Genoese, and then to the Sardinians. Sarzana was
the birthplace of Pope Nicholas V. (Tommaso Parentucelli, 1447-
55), a great patron of learning, and the founder of the library of
the Vatican.
The environs are very fertile. Among the mountains to the
left the white rocks and gorges of the neighbouring marble-quarries
are visible. To the right a fine retrospect of the Bay of La Spezia.
to Pisa. CARRARA. 19. Route. 123
Between Sarzana and the next stat. Avenza are the ruins of
Luna, situated on the coast. This old Etruscan town fell to decay
under the Roman emperors, and was destroyed by the Arabs in
1016; its episcopal see was transferred to Sarzana in 1465. The
site of the ancient town is still marked by the ruins of an amphi-
theatre and circus. From the town of Luna the district derives
its name of La Lunigiana.
ry
(41/5 M. Avenza is a small town on the brook of that name,
above which rises an old castle of Castruccio Castracani, of 1322,
with bold round towers and pinnacles. On the coast to the right
is a small harbour for the shipment of the Carrara marble.
Brancw Raitway from Avenza, 12 min. (3 M.; fares 60, 40, 30c.) to -
Carrara (Locanda Nazionale, with the Trattoria del Giardinetto, in the
principal street on the right; travellers are cautioned against spending the
night here, as the mosquitoes are insufferable). The town of Carrara con-
tains the studios of numerous sculptors, some of which should be visited.
Most of the inhabitants obtain their livelihood by working the marble.
The following churches should also be inspected: S. Andrea, in a half
Germanic style of the 13th cent., like the cathedral of Monza, with inter-
esting facade and good sculptures; Madonna delle Grazie, with sumptuous
decorations in marble. The Accademia delle Belle Arti contains many
copies from antiques, as well as works by sculptors of Carrara and
several Roman antiquities found in the mines of Fantiscritti (see below),
e.g. a *Basrelief of Jupiter with Bacchus. The piazza in front of the
Academy is embellished with a statue of Pellegrino Rossi of Carrara, the
papal minister, murdered at Rome in 1848.
A visit to the celebrated and interesting quarries requires 3 hrs. at
least (somewhat fatiguing). Guides demand 5 fr., but for a mere super-
ficial survey their services may be dispensed with. Leaving the station,
we turn to the right and follow the street in a straight direction, past
the theatre, to the Piazza, which is adorned with a statue of the grand-
duchess Maria Beatrice, over life-size, erected in 1861. The bridge to
the left at the end of the piazza should then be crossed, and the road
with deep ruts, ascending on the right bank of the Torano, followed.
At (1/, M.) a group of houses a path diverges to the right to extensive
quarries of an inferior kind of marble, but we continue to follow the
road, passing numerous marble cutting and polishing works. Beyond
the village of Zorano, round which the road leads, the first mines,
recognisable by broad heaps of rubbish, are situated on both sides of the
valley. The blocks are detached, drawn out by oxen, and rolled down
the hill. The finer description is called marmo statuario. About 400
mines with 6000 workmen are at present in operation. The working
hours are from 5 a.m. to 2 or 3 p. m.; the forenoon is therefore the
best time for a visit (a supply of copper coins is desirable). A horn is
blown as a signal when the rock is about to be blasted. The mines of
Monte Crestola and M. Sagro yield the best and largest blocks. The mines
of Fantiscritti, 3 M. from Carrara, were worked by the ancient Romans.
781/, M. Massa (Albergo Giappone), formerly the capital of
the Duchy of Massa-Carrara, which was united with Modena in
1829, with 4,800 inhab., is pleasantly situated amidst mountains,
and enjoys a mild climate. The Palace was once occupied by Na-
poleon’s sister Elisa Baeccioechi when duchess. The marble-
quarries here are very valuable, rivalling those of Carrara.
Country fertile and well cultivated. The picturesque ruins
of the castle of Montignoso become visible on an abrupt height
ee
SS
124 Route 19. VIAREGGIO.
to the left. — 83 M. Querceta; 3M. to the left is the village of
Serravezza, frequented as a summer-resort, with marble-quarries.
85 M. Pietrasanta (Unione; Europa), a small town with ancient
walls, beautifully situated among gentle slopes, was besieged and
taken by Lorenzo de’ Medici in 1482. The church of 8. Martino (11
Duomo), begun in the 13th cent. , with additions extending down
to the 16th cent., contains a pulpit and sculptures by Stagio Stagi.
Ancient font and bronzes by Donatello in the Battisterio. Cam-
panile of 1380. S. Agostino, an unfinished Gothic church of the
14th cent., contains a painting by Taddeo Zacchia, of 1519. The
pinnacled Town Hall is situated in the Piazza, between these two
churches. In the vicinity of Pietrasanta are quicksilver mines.
91M. Viareggio (*Hétel de Russie, ‘pens.’ 5-6 fr.; Corona
d'Italia; New York; Alb. d'Italia; Albergo del Commercio, good
cuisine; Pension Anglo-Américaine, well spoken of; Grande Bre-
tagne, 1/2 M. from the sea, and the nearest to the station), a small
town on the coast, and a sea-bathing place, has lately come into fa-
your as a winter-resort. The climate resembles that of Pisa. The
celebrated pine-wood (Pineta), which forms a half-circle round the
place from N.E. to S.W., affords an admirable shelter against the
wind, The line here enters the marshy plain of the Serchio, crosses
the river beyond (94 M.) Torre di Lago,,and reaches —
1041/. M. Pisa (p. 341). To the left at the entrance are seen the
cathedral, the baptistery, and the campanile. The station is on the
left bank of the Arno.
IV. Lombardy.
enter A TY Us OE oD Ne ies SUSE: SP PELE
21. From Milan to Como and Lecco. . A ae Fatal as
22. From Milan to Bellagio. The Brianza. . . iy te oD
From Erba to Como and to Lecco... . «te. eS 2 2150
Lake of Como. . . ee cg Wh tag ede Ba |
evan ole. Nach BoOrmid.. ...§ ba setuct« veut. ik ee lbs
2. The Lake of Lecco . . 159
From the Lake of Como to the Lago Maggiore. Lugano
and the Lake of Lugano. Spd) qidhore ai ool satbO
1. From Como to Luino by Lugano. . ..... . 160
2. From Menaggio by Porlezza to Lugano . . . . . 164
From Milan to Varese and Arona. . ...... . 165
Seeeroat tian to Varese. 0) peered (ER Jeode eniol 465
From Varese to Como, Laveno, and Porto Ceresio. . 166
CE AORAWMADITO; ATOMS 5,0, ners fs cay «mp neve orien ADE
Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands . . . . . . 167
From Stresa to Varallo. Monte Motterone. Lake of Orta.
I rarhilet sanwilarlvudd sbeWt'« veiide ond sarge ph bas
From Milan to Voghera (Genoa) by Pavia. Certosa di
NER ee vee ee th ONY FO BUR ONE 1? ORRIN
1. From Pavia to Alessandria vid Valenza. . ... . 179
2. From Pavia to Brescia vid Cremona. . .... . 179
3. From Pavia to Piacenza via Codogno. . . . . . . 180
From Milan to Mantua via Cremona. . . .... . 180
Beoun:Creniona to}-Piaveriza\& i) so.) Sukie. fereigdd8e
From Milan to Bergamo . ybutt- gal, ‘ ut S2
From Lecco to Brescia vid Bergamo . . . . . . ).) .) 185
Peet Pe LO Verdna tens Seen OW) TOL Seer e
aed 80) 01. Gardar, (arn. wets ronwrove id iw « . 186
pram, Kivearto Mori . goiwids .aaieoW «owt .kieth imei iss
Exeursdions dromsy Riva sdt od. 064 ylieeuness ive. aacyeykaedt8S
Breuciwin Hip. eli) yall, (eelniiigg wep to gollatodt 189
From Brescia to Tirano in the Val Tellina. Lago d’Iseo
Monte Aprica .
The name of the Germanic tribe that invaded Italy in 568 is now
applied to the country between the Alps and the Po, which is separated
from Piedmont by the Ticino, and from Venetia by the Mincio. It is
divided into the eight provinces of Como, Milano, Pavia, Sondrio, Ber-
gamo, Cremona, Brescia, and Mantova, covering an area of about 9000 sq.
M., and containing 3,623,000 inhabitants. The name was once applied to a
much larger tract. Lombardy has not inaptly been likened to an
artichoke, the leaves of which were eaten off in succession by the lords
of Piedmont; thus in 1427 they appropriated Vercelli, in 1531 Asti, in
{703 Val Sesia, in 1786 Alessandria, Tortona, and Novara, and in 1743
Domo dOssola. The heart of the country, if we continue to use the
simile, would then be the District or Mixan, or the tract lying between
the Ticino, Po, and Adda. The three zones of cultivation are the same
as in Piedmont, viz. the region of pastures among the mountains, that
126. LOMBARDY.
of the vine, fruit-trees, and the silk-culture on the lower undulating
country and the slopes adjoining the lakes, and that of wheat, maize,
and meadows in the plains, the yield of these last being, however, far
more abundant than in Piedmont. The summers are hot and dry, rain
being rare beyond the lower Alps, and falling more frequently when
the wind is from the E. than from the W., as the moisture of the latter
is absorbed by the Maritime Alps and the Apennines. The land, however,
is more thoroughly irrigated than that of any other district in Europe,
and the servitude of aquae ductus, or right to conduct water across the
property of others, has been very prevalent here for centuries. A failure
of the crops indeed is hardly possible, except when the summer is
unusually cold. Meadows yield as many as twelve crops in the year,
their growth being unretarded by the winter. The so-called Parmesan
cheese is one of the well-known products of Lombardy. In the middle
ages the importance of Milan was due to its woollen industries, but sheep-
breeding has in modern times been superseded by the silk-culture, an
industry which has so materially increased the wealth of the country,
that it used to be said during the Austrian régime, that the army and the
officers lived on mulberry leaves, as their produce alone sufficed to pay
the land taxes. Under these circumstances the population is unusually
dense, being about 380 persons to the sq. mile, exclusive of the capital.
The central situation, and the wealth of the country, have ever ren-
dered it an apple of discord to the different European nations. In the
earliest period known to us, it was occupied by the Htruscans, an Italian
race, Which about the 6th cent. B.C. was subjugated or expelled by
Celts from the W. These immigrants founded Mediolanum (Milan), and
traces of their language still survive in the modern dialect of the coun-
try. It was but slowly that the Italians subdued or assimilated these
foreigners, and it was not till B.C, 220 that the Romans extended their
supremacy to the banks of the Po. In the following century they consti-
tuted Gallia Cisalpina a province, on which Cesar conferred the rights
of citizenship in B.C. 46. Throughout the whole of the imperial epoch
these regions of Northern Italy formed the chief buttress of the power of
Rome. Since the 4th cent. Milan has surpassed Rome in extent, and,
in many respects, in importance also. It became an imperial residence,
and the church founded here by St. Ambrosius (who became bishop in
374), long maintained its independence of the popes. The Goths, and
afterwards the Lombards, made Pavia their capital, but their domination,
after lasting for two centuries, was overthrown by Charlemagne in TTA. The
Lombard dialect also contains a good many words derived from the German
(thus, bron, gast, gra, pid, smessor, stora, and stosa, from the German Brun-
nen, Gast, Greis, Pflug, Messer, stiren, and stossen). The crown of
Lombardy was worn successively by the Franconian and by the German
Kings, the latter of whom, particularly the Othos, did much to promote
the prosperity of the towns. When the rupture between the emperor
and the pope converted the whole of Italy into a Guelph and Ghibelline
camp, Milan formed the headquarters of the former, and Cremona those
of the latter party, and the power of the Hohenstaufen proved to be no
match for the Lombard walls. The internal dissensions between the
nobles and the townspeople, however, led to the creation of several new
principalities. In 1287 Matteo degli Visconti of Milan (whose family
was so called from their former office of ‘vicecomites’, or archiepiscopal
judges) was nominated ‘Capitano del Popolo’, and in 1394 appointed gov-
ernor of Lombardy by the German King. Although banished for a time
by the Guelph family Della Torre, both he and his sons and their poster-
rity contrived to assert their right to the Signoria. The greatest of this
family was Giovanni Galeazzo, who wrested the reins of government from
his uncle in 1385, and extended his duchy to Pisa and Bologna, and even
as far as Perugia and Spoleto, Just, however, as he was preparing at
Florence to be crowned king of Italy, he died of the plague in 1402,
in the 5Dth year of his age. On the extinction of the Visconti family in
1447, the condottiere Francesco Sforza ascended the throne, and under his
descendants was developed to the utmost that despotism which Leo de-
Stara. delle
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MILAN. 20. Route.
scribes as ‘a state in which the noblest institutions prosper when the
prince is a good man; in which the greatest horrors are possible when
the prince cannot govern himself; a state which has eve rywhere thriven
in Mohammedan countries, but rarely in the middle ages in other Christian
countries besides this’. In 1494 when Lodovico il Moro induced Charles
VIII. of France to undertake a campaign against Naples, he inaugurated
a new period in the history of Italy. Since that time Italy has at once
been the battlefield and the prey of the great powers of Europe. Lodo-
vico himself, after having revolted against France and been defeated at
Novara in 1500, terminated his career in a French dungeon. In 1525 the
battle of Pavia constituted Charles V. arbiter of the fortunes of Italy. In
1535, after the death of the last Sforza, he invested his son, Philip Il. of
Spain, with the duchy of Milan. In "4713 the Spanish supremacy was
followed by the Awstrian in consequence of the War of Succession. On
four occasions (1733, 1745, 1796, and 1800) the French took possession of
Milan, and the Napoleonic period at length swept away the last relics of
its medigval institutions. Although Napoleon annexed the whole of
Piedmont, Genoa, Parma, Tuscany, and Rome (about 36,000 sq. M. of
Italian territory) to France, the erection of a kingdom of Ttaly contrib-
uted materially to arouse a national spirit of patriotism. This kingdom
embraced Lombardy, Venice, S. Tyrol, Istria, the ereater part of the
Emilia, and the Marches (about 32 000 sq. M.). Milan was the capital,
and Napoleon was king , but was represented by his stepson Eugene
Beauharnais. The Austrian Supremacy, which was restored in 1815, proved
irreconcilable with the national aspirations of the people. By the Peace
of Zurich (10th Novy. 1859), Lombardy , with the exception of the district
of Mantua, was ceded to Napoleon iL. and by him to Sardinia.
20. Milan, Ital. Alano.
Arrival. The Railway Station (Pl. G; 1), a handsome and well-arranged
structure, is decorated with frescoes by Pagliano, Induno, and Casnedi,
and with sculptures by Vela, Strazza, Magni, and Tabacchi. Omnibuses
from most of the hotels are in waiting (fare 4k 1'/,fr.). Fiacre from the
station to any part of the town 1!/qfr. (also at night), each article of
luggage 25 c. — Tramway into the town 10c. — Porterage to the town
for luggage under 100 Ibs. 50 c., according to tariff,
Hotels. *Granp HOTEL R ee med LE (PI. a; F, 5), Corso Vittorio Emma-
nuele ; *“HOTEL Cavour (PI. $93), in the Piazza Cavour, expensive;
*GRAND HOTEL DE MiLAN tpt C3 % 3, 4), Via Alessandro Manzoni 29, with
lift and post, telegraph, and railway: -booking offices; GRAN BRETAGNA &
Rercumann (Pl. d; D, E, 6), Via Torino; Hérer GonTINENTAL (Pl. e;
E, 4), Via Alessandro Manzoni. All these are ig the first class; average
charges: R. 3 fr. and upwards, B. 11/,, D. 5, L. 1-2, A. 1-2, omnibus 11/2 fr.
— The following are good second-class hotels : = EUROPA (PI. £3" BD);
Corso Vittorio Emmanuele 9, R. 3, D. Al/e, B. 11/2, déj. 3'/4, Li L'a, A. 3/4,
omn. 1 fr.; *Hérer Manin (Pl. k; F,2), Via Manin, near the Giardini
Pubblici; *Roma (Pli'e3'P, 5), a ga Vittorio Emmanuele 7 (with restau-
rant, no table dhote), R. No, A . 3/4, L. 3/4, omnibus 1 fr.; *Pozzo (PI. 1;
E, 6), Via Torino, R. from 2, D. at 6 p.m. 4Al/o fr., L. 60.¢., B. 14/2, omni-
bus 4 fr.% FRANCIA (P1l.m; F,5), Corso Vittorio Emmanuele 19, D. 4, B.
ie ir., as. GO, "A260 oc. well spoken of; *CENTRAL (P]. h; 5, 6), Via del
Pesce; *BELLA VENEZIA (Pl.i; E, F, 5), Piazza S. Fedele, R. 3, omn. 1,
A. 3/4, L, 3/4 fr.; “Ancora (Pl. n; F,5), Via Agnello and Corso Vitt. Em-
manuele; Hérex Lion rer Trois Sursses (Pl. 0; G, 4, 5), Corso Vittorio
Emmanuele, at the corner of the Via Durini, B. 1i/, omn. 1, As 3/4) L. 3/4 fr.
Italian hotels, with trattorie: H6TEL-PENSION SUISSE, commercial ; Fat-
CONE, well Ny od pa of; *REBECCHINO (Pl. p; E, 5), Via s. Margherita, R. 21/2,
B. Ly, A. 3/3, L. 3/y fr; Frrenze (Pl. q; F, 2), Via Principe Umberto, near
the station ; Isoua BELLA, outside the Porta Nuova, well spoken of;
“AQUILA (P]. r; E, 5), Via S. Margherita, unpretending; PAssaARELLA; Co-
RONA DItaria, R. 2, D. 21/, fr., B. 80, A. 50, omn. 50 ¢.; *Biscionr,
128 Route 20. MILAN. Theatres.
Piazza Fontana (Pl. F, 5), to the S.E. of the cathedral, R. from 11/2 fr. ;
AGNELLO, Corso Vitt. Emmanuele 2.
Restaurants ( 7rattorie). *Biffi, Gnocchi, in the Galleria Vittorio Emma-
nuele (see below); Cova (see below); *Rebecchino, Via S. Margherita, near
the Piazza del Duomo, an old-established house, founded in 1699. The
above-mentioned second-class hotels are also restaurants. Jsola Botta, out-
side the town (PI. B, 2), by the Triumphal Arch (p. 145), a favourite resort
on Sundays and holidays. Fiaschetteria Toscana, behind the E. branch of
the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele; good Tuscan wine.
Cafés. *Cova, with a garden, Via S. Giuseppe, near the Scala, concerts
in the evening (10c. added to the charge on each refreshment); *4i/f and
“Gnocchi, both in the Galleria Vitt. Emmanuele, concerts in the evening ;
Martini, Piazza della Scala; *Ewropa, Corso Vitt. Emmanuele, near the Ho-
tel de la Ville (concerts every evening); several cafés in the Giardini
Pubblici (p. 144); delle Colonne, Corso Venezia 1. Déjeuner a la fourchette
may be procured at most of the cafés; also good beer in glasses (tazza,
30c.; tazza grande, 50c.). — Ices (sorbetto, and ‘pezzi dur’ or ices frozen
hard) are not to be had before 4 p.m.; at an earlier hour, ‘granita’, or haltf-
frozen, is in vogue. — Panetone is a favourite kind of cake, especially at
the time of the Carnival.
Beer. Birraria Nazionale, a large establishment in the Via Carlo
Alberto, on the W. side of the Piazza del Duomo (Vienna beer); Birraria
Stabilini, Galeria Vitt. Emmanuele; *7renk, Galleria de’ Cristoforis (p. 132).
Baths. Corso Vittorio Emmanuele 17, clean and not expensive; Via
Pasquirolo 11, etc. — Swimming-Baths: *Bagno di Diana (P|. H, 2), outside
the Porta Venezia (skating-rink in winter); Bagno Nazionale (Pl. D, 8),
outside the Porta Ticinese; Bagno di Castelfidardo (Pl. E, 1), with a se-
parate basin for ladies, Via Castelfidardo, near the Porta Nuova.
Cabs (‘Broughams’; a tariff in each vehicle). Per drive by day or
night ifr.; from the station to the town, 11/qfr.; half-hour 1fr., per hour
l\/ofr.; each article of luggage 25c.
Tramways. Milan and its environs have recently become covered
with a rapidly extending network of tramway lines, most of which, how-
ever, are of little use to the tourist. The cars are in some instances
driven by steam-power. The following are the principal lines diverging
from Milan: 1. To Monza (p. 147; 1 hr.), starting from the church of 5S.
Babila, Corso Venezia (PI. G, 4); inside 80 c., outside 60 ¢. — 2. Tramway
Interprovinciale, station in the Strada di Circonvallazione, outside the
Porta Venezia (PJ. G, 1); lines to Monza and Barzano, to Vimercate, and
to Vaprio (with branch from Villafornare to Treviglio, p. 183, and thence
to Bergamo, p. 183, and to Lodi, p. 285). — 3. To Magenta and Castrano,
starting outside the Porta Magenta (Pl. A, 4,5). — 4. To Giusano, starting
from the Porta Volta (Pl. D, 1); continuation to Bellagio projected, comp.
p. 149. — 5. To Melegnano (p. 285) and Lodi (p. 285), starting outside the
Porta Romana (PI. H, 8). — 6. To Pavia, see p. 176. — 7. To Saronno and
Como, see p. 146. — 8. To Saronno and Tradate (p. 166) and to Gallarate
(p. 165), starting from the Foro Bonaparte, at the Via Cusani (Pl. D, 4).
— There is also a Circular Line round the town.
Post Office (Pl. E, 6), Via Rastrelli 20, near the cathedral, at the back
of the Palazzo Reale, open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; branch-offices, Piazza
Durini (P1. G, 5) and in the Hétel Milan (p. 127). — Telegraph Office
(Pl. E, 5), near the Borsa, Piazza dei Mercanti 19, first floor.
Theatres. The TZeatro della Scala (Pl. E, 4), the largest in Italy after
the S. Carlo theatre at Naples, was built in 1778, and holds 3600 spectators.
The opera and ballet are excellent, but performances take place during
the Carnival only; the interior is worthy of inspection (1fr.). Teatro
alla Canobbiana (during the Carnival only; Pl. F, 6), with ballet; Teatro
Manzoni (Pl. E, 5), near the Piazza S. Fedele, elegantly fitted up, perfor-
mances sometimes in French. Teatro dal Verme (Pl. D, 4), operas and
ballets in summer and autumn, dramas, comedies, and ballets during the
Carnival, sometimes used as a circus; Teatro Carlo Porta (Pl. D, 7).
Bankers. Scherbius, Piazza della Scala 5 (Pl. E, 4); Mack, Wiegel, &
Keutzer, Via Orso 16 (Pl. D, E, 4); Mylius & Co., Via Clerici 4 (Pl. E, 4);
Physicians. MILAN. 20. Route. 129
Ulrich & Co., Via Bigli 21 (PI. 4); Weill, Schott Figli, & Co., Via Pietro
Verri 7 (PI. F, A). — Wecue Changer. A. Grisi, Piazza Mercanti (P1. E, 5);
Marietta & Corta, opposite the choir of the cathedral.
Booksellers. /. Sacchi & Fight (formerly Artaria), Via S. Margherita;
Hoepli, Galleria de’ Cristoforis; A. Vallardi, Via S. Margherita; Dumolard,
Corso Vitt. Emanuele 21; Gius. Galli, Galleria Vitt. Emmanuele 18 & 80.
Shops. The best are in the Cor so and the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele.
The Alle Citta @Italia, Via Carlo Alberti, near the Piazza del Duomo,
is an establishment in the style of the large Magasins at Paris. The Silk
Industry of Milan, in which upwards of 200 considerable firms are en-
gaged, is very important. The following are noted retail-dealers: Ve’-
nazzi, Corso Vitt. Emmanuele, adjoining the Hotel de la Ville; Osnago, ViaS.
Radegonda, to the N. of the Cathedral. — Marbles: Bianchi, Galleria Vitt.
Emmanuele. — Antiquities: Bertini?, Via S. Damiano 40. — Optician: Jes
Via §. Margherita 7. —Fancy Goods: Silberkrauss, Corso Vitt. E mmanuele).
Physicians, English: Dr. Francis Cozzi, Via Monforte 6; Dr. Vivanti,
Via Senato 20; Dr. Fornoni, Via Passarella pa Chemist : Zambelletté,
Piazza S. Carlo, Corso Vitt. Emmanuele (Pl. F, 4, 5).
Cigars. The Spaccio Normale, or government shop, is in the Corso
Vitt. Emmanuele, at the corner of Via Pasquirolo, by the Hotel de la Ville,
where genuine havanas are also sold (PI. F, 4, 5).
Permanent Art Exhibition, in the Palazzo del Senato, Via S. Primo,
near the Via del Senato (Pl. G, 3), open daily.
English Church Service, Via Morigi 11; chaplain, Rev. A. J. Ard, Via
Milazzo 8.
Principal Attractions: Cathedral, ascend to the roof; Galleria Vittorio
Emmanuele; Brera (picture-gallery); Arco della Pace; S. Maria delle Grazie
and Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper; 5S. Ambrogio, the oldest of the
churches; Ambrosiana (pictures); Piazza de’ Mercanti; the new cemetery;
between 6 and 7 p.m. walk through Corso Vittorio Emmanuele to and
beyond the Porta Venezia.
Milan (390 ft.), surnamed ‘la grande’, the Mediolanum of the
Romans, which was rebuilt after its total destruction in 1162 by
the Emp. Frederick Barbarossa, is the capital of Lombardy, the seat
of an archbishop, the headquarters of an army-corps, and one of the
wealthiest manufacturing towns in Italy, silk and woollen goods
being the staple commodities. It is situated on the small river
Olona, which however is navigable and is connected by means of
the Naviglio Grande (p. 79) with the Ticino and Lago Maggiore, by
the Naviglio di Pavia with the Ticino and the Po, and by the Na-
viglio della Martesana with the Adda, the Lake of Como, and the
Po. The town is 7 M. in circumference, and contains upwards
of 200,000 inhab., or, including the suburbs, 324,600.
The favourable situation of Milan in the centre of Lombardy has al-
ways secured for it a high degree of prosperity. Under the Romans it
was one of the largest cities in Italy (p. 126), but owing to its repeated de-
struction hardly a trace of that period has been left. In the 11th cent.
it contained 300,000 inhabitants. Its heroic struggles against the German
emperors are well known. With the exception of S. Ambrogio and a few
other churches, the city was totally destroyed in 1162 by the emperor
Frederick Barbarossa, but in 1167 it was rebuilt by the allied cities of
Brescia, Bergamo, Mantua, and Verona. It was afterwards ruled by the
Visconti (1312 - {417) , then by the Sforza family (1447-1535). Under the
supremacy of the latter it attained the zenith of its reputation as a patron
of art, having been the residence of Bramante from 1476 to 1500, and of
Leonardo da Vinci from 1494 to 1516. The most eminent of Leonardo’s
pupils who flourished here were Bernardino Luini, Cesare da Sesto, Giov.
Ant. Boltraffio, Marco da Oggionno, Andrea Salaino, and Gaudenzio Ferrari.
— Milan with the rest of Lombardy afterwards fell into the hands of the
BAEDEKER. Italy I. 6th Edit, 9
130 Route 20. MILAN. Cathedral.
Spaniards, and in 1714 fell to Austria. In 1796 it became the capital of
the ‘Cisalpine Republic’, and then (down to 1815) that of the Kingdom of
Italy. The bloody insurrection of 17th May, 1848, compelled the Austrians
to evacuate the city, and the patriotic agitations which ensued were hap-
pily ended by the desired union with the new kingdom of Italy in 1859.
No town in Italy has undergone such marked improvement as Milan
since the events of 1859. — In the province of ArT it has raised itself to
the highest rank in the kingdom. Sculpture is here carried on to such
an extent as to have become almost a special industry. The Milanese
Scutprors take great pride in their technical skill, and in effective
imitations of nature. Among the best known sculptors are Magni, Peduzzt,
Tandardini, Barzaghi, Argenti, Calvi, and Baccaglia. — PAINTING is
represented by Fr. Hayez, Induno, Bianchi, Mussini, Passini, and others,
but most of these artists seem to cultivate the modern Parisian style, and
to be entirely oblivious of their glorious old national traditions.
The old part of the town, a portion of which consists of narrow
and irregular streets, is enclosed by canals, beyond which suburbs
(borghi), named after the different gates (Porta Venezia, Comasina
or Garibaldi, Sempione, ete.), have sprung up.
The focus of the commercial and public life of Milan is the
*Piazza del Duomo (Pl. E, 5), which was formerly cooped up
between insignificant lanes, but has recently been much extended,
and is now enclosed by imposing edifices designed by Mengoni
(p. 132).
The celebrated **Cathedral (Pl. E, F, 5), dedicated ‘Mariae
Nascent’, as the inseription on the facade announces, and as the
gilded statue on the tower over the dome also indicates, erected in
the Gothic style, is regarded by the Milanese as the eighth wonder
of the world, and is, next to St. Peter’s at Rome and the cathedral
at Seville, the largest church in Europe. The interior is 159 yds.
in length, 61 yds. in breadth; nave 155 ft. in height, 17 yds. in
breadth. The dome is 220 ft. in height, the tower 360 ft. above
the pavement. The roof is adorned with 98 Gothic turrets, and
the exterior with upwards of 2000 statuesin marble. The structure,
which was founded by the splendour-loving Gian Galeazzo Visconti
in 1386, perhaps after the model of the Cologne cathedral, pro-
gressed but slowly owing to the dissensions and jealousies of the
Italian and Northern architects, whereby it was impossible to attain
uniformity in the execution. In 41391 Hans von Fernach and
Heinrich von Gmiind are named as the architects of the cath-
edral. The dome was added towards the close of the 15th century
by Francesco di Giorgio of Siena, with whom Giov Ant. Omodeo
appears to have been associated in the superintendence of the
puilding. The Renaissance ornamentation of the facade (doors and
winilows) was executed partly by Pellegrino Tibaldi in the middle
of th: 16thcent., and partly at a still later date. In 1805 Napoleon
cause the works to be resumed, and the tower over the dome to
be adde ', and at the present day additions and repairs are constantly
in progre:
The ch rch is cruciform in shape, with double aisles, and a
transept also Aanked with aisles. The InrEerior is supported by
Cathedral. MILAN. 20. Route. 131
52 pillars, each 12 ft. in diameter, the summits of which are ad-
orned with canopied niches with statues instead of capitals. The
pavement consists of mosaic in marble of different colours. The
vaulting is skilfully painted in imitation of perforated stone-work.
INTERIOR. By the principal inner portal are two huge monolith col-
umns of granite from the quarries of Baveno (see p. 29). The band of
brass in the pavement close to the entrance indicates the line of the
meridian. Ricur AIsLE: Sarcophagus of Archbishop Aribert (1018-1045),
above which is a gilded crucifix of the 11th century. Monument of Otto
Visconti (d. 1295) and Johannes Visconti (d. 1354), both archbishops of
Milan. Gothic monument of Marco Carelli (d. 1394). Tomb of Canon
Vimercati, by Bambaja. Riaur Transerr (W. wall): Monument of the
brothers Giacomo and Gabriele de’ Medici, erected by their brother
Pope Pius IV. (1564), the three bronze statues by Leone Leoni (Aretino).
Tickets for the roof (25c., see below) are obtained near this monument;
the staircase leading to the dome is in the corner of the side-wall. The
altar of the Offering of Mary (E. wall of S. transept) is adorned with fine
Reliefs by Bambaja, with a relief of the nativity of the Virgin by Zan-
tardini at the foot, Adjacent is the Statue of St. Bartholomew by Marco
Agrate (end of 16th cent.), anatomically remarkable, as the saint is
represented flayed, with his skin on his shoulder, and _ bearing the
modest inscription ‘non me Praxiteles sed Marcus finxit Agrates’.
The door of the S. Sacristy (to the right, in the choir) is remarkable
for its richly sculptured Gothic decorations. The *Zreasury here (adm.
1 fr.) contains silver statues and candelabra of the 17th cent.; the
enamelled Evangelium of Abp. Aribert; a diptych of the 6th cent.; book-
covers adorned with Italian and Byzantine carving of the early middle
ages; ivory vessel belonging to Bishop Godfrey; a golden Pax; and lastly
a statue of Christ by Cristofano Solari.
In the ambulatory, a little farther on, is a sitting figure of Martin V.
by Jacopino da Tradate (1421). Then the black marble Monument of
Cardinal Marino Carracciolo (d. 1538), by whom Emp. Charles V. was
crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle in 1520, by Bambaja. The fourth of the
handsome new Gothic confessionals is for the German, French, and English
languages. The stained glass in the three vast choir windows, comprising
350 representations of scriptural subjects, were executed by Alois and
Giov. Bertini of Guastalla during the present century; most of them are
copies from old pictures.. Before the N. Sacristy is reached, the Statue
of Pius IV. is seen above, in a sitting posture, by Angelo Siciliano. The
door of this sacristy is also adorned with fine sculptures in marble.
In the centre of the N. TransEpr is a valuable bronze *Candelabrum,
in the form of a tree, executed in the 13th cent., and decorated with
jewels, presented by Giov. Batt. Trivulzio, in 1562.
Lerr AISLE: Altar-piece, painted in 1600 by Fed. Baroccio, represent-
ing S. Ambrogio releasing Emp. Theodosius from ecclesiastical penalties.
Upon the adjoining altar of St. Joseph, the Nuptials of Mary, by F. Zue-
chero. The following chapel contains the old wooden Crucifix which 8S.
Carlo Borromeo bore in 1576, when engaged, barefooted, in his missions
of mercy during the plague. Adjacent, the Monument of Abp. Arcimboldi
(ca. 1550), and by the wall the statues of eight Apostles (13th cent.). Not
far from the N. side door is the Font, consisting of a sarcophagus of S.
Dionysius, but appropriated to its present use by S. Carlo Borromeo.
In front of the choir, below the dome, is the subterranean Cappella
8S. Carlo Borromeo (p. 167), with the tomb of the saint; entrance opposite
the doors to the sacristy, to the N. and S. of the choir (open in summer
5-10, in winter 7-10 a.m.; at other times 1fr.; for showing the relics of
the saint 5Dfr.).
The traveller should not omit to ascend to the *Roor and
Tower of the Cathedral. The staircase ascends from the corner of
the right transept (ticket 25¢.; map of town and environs 11/9 fr. ;
Q#
132 Route 20. MILAN. Galleria Vitt. Emman.
open till an hour before sunset, in summer from 5 a,.m.). As single
visitors are not now admitted, except when other visitors are already
at the top, a party of two or more must be made up. The visitor
should mount at once to the highest gallery of the tower (by 194
steps inside and 300 outside the edifice). A watchman, generally
stationed at the top, possesses a good telescope. The finest views of
the Alps are obtained early.
View. To the extreme left (S.W.), Monte Viso, then Mont Cenis
(p. 25); between these two, the less lofty Superga (p. 73) near Turin;
Mont Blanc, Great St. Bernard; Monte Rosa, the most conspicuous of all;
to the left of the last the prominent Matterhorn; then the Cima di Jazi,
Strahlhorn, and Mischabel; N.W. the Monte Leone near the Simplon;
the Bernese Alps; N. the summits of the St. Gotthard and Spliigen,
and E. in the distance the peak of the Ortler. S. the Certosa of Pavia
(p. 176) is visible, farther E. the towers and domes of Pavia itself, in
the background the Apennines.
To the S., opposite the cathedral, stands the Palazzo Reale Wate
E, F, 5, 6), built on the site of a palace of the Visconti in 1772,
adorned with frescoes by A. Appiani, B. Luini, and Hayez, and
containing several handsome saloons. In the street to the left,
beyond the palace, are visible the tower(1336) and apse of the fine
half-Romanesque church of S. Gotardo, formerly the chapel of the
Visconti. — Adjacent, on the E., is the large Archiepiscopal Pa-
lace (Arcivescovado; Pl. F, 5), by Pellegrini (1565), containing a
handsome court with a double colonnade and marble statues (Moses
and Aaron) by Tandardini and Strazza. In the interior court, on
the side next the Piazza Fontana, are several Corinthian columns
of the 15th century. — The W. side of the Piazza del Duomo is
skirted by the Via Carlo Alberto (see p. 139), beyond which, to
the N.W., lies the Piazza de’ Mercanti (see p. 139).
On the N. side is the imposing new palatial fagade which forms
the entrance to the **Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele (Pl. E, 5),
connecting the Piazza del Duomo with the Piazza della Scala. This
is the most spacious and attractive structure of the kind in Europe.
It was built in 1865-67 by the architect Gius. Mengoni, one of
the most gifted of modern Italian architects, who unfortunately
lost his life by falling from the portal (finished in 1878) in 1877.
The gallery, which is said to have cost 8 million fr. (320,0000.),
is 320 yds. in length, 16 yds. in breadth, and 94 ft. in height.
The form is that of a Latin cross, with an octagon in the centre,
over which rises a cupola 180 ft. in height. The decorations are
well-executed and bear testimony to the good taste of the Milanese.
The octagon is adorned with frescoes, representing Europe, Asia,
Africa, and America, while the frescoes on the entrance-arches
are emblematic of Science, Industry, Art, and Agriculture. The
gallery contains handsome shops, and is lighted in the evening by
2000 gas-jets. The circle of gas-jets in the dome is lighted by a
small engine set in motion by clockwork, which does its work in
11/9 min., and attracts numerous spectators.
Piazza della Seala. MILAN. 20. Route. 133
The gallery is adorned with 24 statues of celebrated Italians: at the
entrance from the Piazza del Duomo, Arnold of Brescia and G. B. Vico;
in the octagon, on the right, Cavour, Emmanuel Philibert (p. 68), Vittore
Pisano, Gian Galeazzo Visconti (p. 126); Romagnosi (p. 286), Pier Capponi,
Macchiavelli, Marco Polo; Raphael, Galileo, Dante, Michael Angelo; Volta,
Lanzone, Giov. da Procida, Beccaria ; at the right lateral ‘outlet Beno
de’ Gozzadini and Columbus, at the left lateral outlet Ferruccio and
Monti; at the entrance from the Scala, Savonarola and Ugo Foscolo.
The Prazza pEtua Scata (Pl. E, 4) is embellished with the
*Monument of Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519) by Magni, erected
in 1872. The statue of the master in Carrara marble, over life-size,
stands on a lofty pedestal, surrounded by Marco da Oggionno, Cesare
da Sesto, Salaino, and Boltraffio, four of his pupils, and adorned
with copies of his principal works in relief. — In the piazza, to the
W. of the statue, is the Teatro della Scala (p. 128); to the E. is the
large Palazzo del Marino, in which the Municipio (PI. E, 4) has been
established since 1861, erected in 1555 from designs by Galeazzo
Alessi, with a massive fagade and interesting court.
Beyond it is the Jesuit church of S. Fedele (Pl. BE, F, 4) in the
Piazza of that name, erected by S. Carlo Borromeo in 1569 from
designs by Pellegrini, containing a sumptuous high-altar. The ad-
joining Palazzo del Censo ed Archivio, formerly the Jesuit college,
contains part of the government archives, chiefly documents relat-
ing to the history of Milan. — To the N. of this point is the Via
degli Omenoni with the palace of the same name, erected by Leone
Leoni and adorned with Caryatides. The Via degli Omenoni ends
in the Piazza Belgiojoso, which contains the Palazzo Belgiojoso
and Manzoni’s house (No. 3).
Adjacent, at Via Morone, No. 10(PI. F, 4), is the Museo Poldi-
Pezzoli, bequeathed to the town by Cavaliere Poldi-Pezzoli in 1879
and exhibited in the tastefully-furnished house formerly occupied
by the founder. The collections are open to the public daily 10-4,
on holidays 12-3 (adm. 1 fr.; catalogue 1 fr.).
First Floor, Sata Dorara. To the left, antique gold ornaments and
silver plate, goldsmith’s work of the 16-15th cent. ; in the centre, Roman-
esque crosses and reliquaries, valuable vessels embellished with gems
and enamelling; to the right, Roman and Oriental bronzes, antique
glass, etc.; below the mirror, cloisonné enamel from China, Persian
weapons. Among the pictures the following are most noteworthy:
21. Pier della Francesca, Portrait of a woman; 19. Vine. Foppa, Portrait;
20. Crivelli, Christ and St. Francis; 17. Botticelli, Madonna; 18. Girolamo da
Santa Croce, Portrait; 16. Zuini, Betrothal of St. Catharine. The room also
contains fine wood- carvings, carpets, Dresden, Chinese, and Sevres por-
celain, etc. — SALA NBRAS pf iginres, 23. Early Dutch Master’, enna etee?
ol. V. Foppa, Madonna; Signorelli, Saints; 25. Borgognone, St. Catha-
rine; Andyea Solario, 2. cena the Baptist (1499), 99. St. Catharine. Also
a marble statue by Bartolini, representing Reliance upon God, — STanza
pa Letro. Pictures: 33. Bertini, Portrait of Cav. Poldi-Pezzoli; 35. Botti-
celli, Descent from the Cross. Venetian glass. — I. Stanza a QuaDRI:
62. Marco Palmezzano, Portrait; 56. Domenichino, Cardinal; 57. ELlzheimer,
Diana, — Il. Stanza a Quapri: Luini, 84. Tobias, 85. St. Jerome; 106.
A. Solario, Ecce Homo; 109, Boltraffio, Madonna; 111. Lor. Costa, Saints.
—- III. Stanza a Quapri: 122. Mantegna (?), Madonna; 127. Carpaccio,
Venetian senator; 130. A. Solario, Flight into Egypt (1515) ; 138. School
Hii
wilt
134 Route 20. MILAN. Brera.
of Leonardo da Vinci, Madonna; 139. Fra Bartolommeo, Triptych (1500) ;
142. Moretto, Madonna; 150. Perugino, Madonna; 146. Carpaccio, Samson.
— We now return and enter the Armoury to the right.
The Via Alessandro Manzoni leads hence to the right to the
Via Bigli, in which stands the Casa Taverna or Ponti, with a fine
portal and an admirably restored court of the 16th century.
We next proceed from the Piazza della Scala to the N. by the
Via S. Giuseppe (Pl. E,; 4) and Via di Brera to the Brera. In the
Via del Monte di Pieta, the second side-street on the left, is the
handsome new Cassa di Risparmio, or savings-bank, by Balzaretti.
The *Brera (Pl. E, 3; Via di Brera 28), or Palazzo delle
Scienze ed Arti, formerly a Jesuits’ College, contains the Picture
Gallery, the Library of the Academy founded in 1170 (200,000 vols.,
open daily), a Collection of Coins (50,000), the Observatory, a col-
lection of Casts from the antique, and an Archaeological Museum.
In the centre of the handsome Court by Richini is a bronze
statue of *Napoleon I., as aRoman emperor, by Canova, considered
one of his finest works. By the staircase, to the left, the statue
of the celebrated jurist Beccaria (d. 1794), who was the first to
call in question the justice of capital punishment, The courtis also
adorned with several other statues.
The #PrcrurE GALLERY (Pinacotéca), which contains about 600
works, is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m, (on holidays from 12,
in winter and on Sundays till 3); admission 4 fr,, Sundays and
Thursdays gratis (catalogue 11/4 fr.).
The gem of the collection is Raphael’s Sposalizio (No. 270),
the chief work of his first or Umbrian period. The numerous
pictures of the Lombard school, and particularly the frescoes sawn
out of churches, are also very valuable. The drawing of the head
of Christ for the Last Supper (No. 267) shows with what beauty
Leonardo could invest his figures. Among the oil - paintings,
No. 265 by Bernardino Luini is a very meritorious work, and among
the frescoes, Nos. 47 and 52, by the same master. The most in-
teresting works of the early Italian school are No. 159 by Gentile
da Fabriano, and No, 264 by Mantegna. The collection also affords
an instructive survey of the progress of Carlo Crivelli (who flourish-
ed in 1468-93; 2nd room), a master who connects the Paduan
school with that of Venice. The most notable works of the latter
school are No. 166 by Gentile Bellini, Nos. 284 and 261 by Gio-
vanni Bellini, and No. 300 by Cima da Conegliano ; and ofa later
period No. 209 by Bonifacio, No. 248 by Titian, and Nos. 253,
254, 255 by Lorenzo Lotto. No. 456 by Domenichino, and No. 331
by Guercino , represent the Italian masters of the 17th century.
The most important works of foreign schools are No. 447 by Rubens,
Nos. 442 and 446 by Van Dyck, and No.449 by Rembrandt. Each
picture bears the name of the painter.
I. and Il. Ante-CuamBrrs: 1-70. Freseoes by Ferrari, Bra-
mantino, Foppa, Mareo da Oggionno, and particularly by Bernar-
Brera. MILAN. 20. Route. 135
dino Luini, some of them approaching the genre style (Nos. 2, 11,
13), scenes from the life of Mary (5, 19, 42, 43, 54, 63, 69, 73),
*Madonna with St. Anthony and St. Barbara (47), Angels (14, 26,
45, 49, 54, 68), and *St. Catharine placed in her sarcophagus by
angels (52; with the inscription C. V,S.Ch., i.e. ‘Catharina Virgo
Sponsa Christi’); Bramantino (4); Marco da Oggionno (15, 20,
33); Foppa, St. Sebastian (71); Gaudenzio Ferrari, Adoration of
the Magi (25).
Room I.: 75. Borgognone, Coronation of the Virgin; *87. Zenale,
Madonna, with the four great church-fathers, SS. Jerome, Gre-
gory, Augustine, and Ambrose, and the donors, Lodovico Mero,
his wife Beatrice, and their two children (excellent portraits, show-
ing the influence of Leonardo da Vinci, who made a drawing for
one of the children’s heads, now in the Ambrosiana, p. 140); 88.
Salaino, Madonna with saints; 96. Marco da Oggionno, Fall of
Lucifer; 98. B. Luini, Madonna with saints; *106. Andrea
Solario, surnamed da Milano, Madonna with Joseph and St. Je-
rome, painted at Venice in 1495; 107. Gaudenzio Ferrari, Martyr-
dom of St. Catharine; 116. Ben. Crespi (17th cent.), Circumeision
of Christ; 139. Nuvolone (17th cent.), The artist’s family.
RoomII.: #159. Gentile da Fabriano, Madonna enthroned ; 162.
Antonio and Giovanni da Murano, Madonna, with the Child and
saints ; “165. Carlo Crivelli, SS. Jerome and Augustine; *163.
Bart. Montagna, Madonna enthroned, with angels playing on in-
struments and saints, one of the artist's masterpieces.
#168. Gentile Bellini, Preaching of St. Mark at Alexandria.
In this piece we ‘perceive that the art of Gentile (brother of Giovanni)
on the eve of his death was better than it had ever been before. ... The
composition is fine, the figures have the individuality which he imparted,
and the whole scene is full of stern and solid power. — ‘History of Paint-
ing in North Italy’, by Crowe and Cavalcaselle.
172. Palma Veechio, Adoration of the Magi(spoiled); 173. Gio-
vanni da Udine, St. Ursula and her virgin attendants; 175, 181.
Giacomo Raibolini, Madonna with saints ; 179. Stefano da Ferrara,
Madonna; 182. Fil. Mazzola, Portrait; 185. Marco Palmezzano,
Madonna; 186. Garofalo, Descent from the Cross; 187. Fra Car-
nevale, Madonna; 188. Giov. Santi (Raphael’s father), Annun-
ciation; 189. C. Crivelli, Crucifixion; 191. Cima da Conegliano,
SS. Peter Martyr, Augustine, and Nicholas of Bari; 192. Montagna,
Madonna with saints, *193. C. Crivelli, Madonna and Child; 195.
Timoteo Viti, Annunciation, with John the Baptist and St.Sebastian.
Room III.: *206. Moretto, Madonna on clouds, SS. Jerome,
Anthony Abbas, and Francis of Assisi, a work of lively and in-
tellectual expression and vigorous colouring; 208. Paolo Veronese,
Baptism of Christ ; *209. Bonifacio (The Elder? ; a. 1540), Find-
ing of Moses in the ark of bulrushes, in the style of Giorgione ;
212. Paris Bordone, Baptism of Christ ; 214. Moroni, Navagiero,
Podesta of Bergamo (1565); 215. Paolo Veronese, Christ in the
136 Route 20. MILAN. Brera.
house of the rich Pharisee; 2415. Bonifacio, Christ at Emmaus;
217. Tintoretto, Pieta; P. Veronese, 219. SS. Gregory and Jerome,
220. Adoration of the Magi, 221. SS. Ambrose and Augustine ;
225. Calisto Piazza, Madonna and saints; “227. Paolo Veronese,
SS. Anthony Abbas, Cornelius, and Cyprian, a monk, and a page,
the finest ‘conversazione’ piece (see p. 236) by this master; 229.
P. Veronese, Last Supper; 230. Tintoretto, SS. Helena, Macarius,
Andrew, and Barbara; 234. Girol. Savoldo, Madonna and saints.
Room IV.: 235. Moretto, St. Francis of Assisi; 237. Vine.
Catena, St. Stephen; 241, 242. Paris Bordone, Madonnas; Mo-
retto, 239. Assumption of the Virgin, 259. Saints.
Lorenzo Lotto, *253. Portrait of a woman, *254, 255. Portraits
of men.
‘The fine-chiselled features (of No. 253), extremely pure in drawing,
charm by their mild expression. A delicate but healthy complexion is
displayed in warm sweet tones of extraordinary transparence; and masterly
transitions lead the eye from opal lights into rich and coloured shadows.
A half length in the same collection represents a man of lean and bony
make with a swallow-tailed beard, a grey eye, close set features, and a
grave aspect.... A third half length, companion to these, offers another
variety of type and execution. A man stands at a table in a pelisse with
a fox skin collar; he is bareheaded and bearded. His right hand rests
on the table and grips a handkerchief. The ruddy skin of the face is
broken with touches now warm now cold by which the play of light and
reflections is rendered with deceptive truth’. — C0. & C.
256. Moroni, Madonna and saints; *248. Titian, St. Jerome,
a characteristic example of his later style, painted about 1560.
Room V.: *261. Giov. Bellini, Madonna; 262. Luca Signorelli,
Scourging of Christ; 263. Cesare da Sesto, Madonna; *264. Man-
tegna, Large altar-piece in twelve sections, at the top Madonna
and St. John weeping over the dead body of Christ, below St. Luke
and other saints, painted in 1454, and a proof of the early matur-
ity of the artist, then 23 years old; *265. Bern. Luini, Madonna;
266. ‘Il Bersaglio degli Dei’ (shooting-match of the gods), a
sketch attributed by Raphael to Michael Angelo; **207. Leonardo
da Vinci, Study for the head of Christ in the Last Supper, of
great beauty in spite of decay and retouching.
*#970. Raphael’s far-famed Sposalizio, or the Nuptials of the
Virgin, painted in 1504 for the church of 8. Francesco in Citta di
Castello, where it remained till 1798.
The composition closely resembles that of the Sposalizio of Perugino
(now at Caén), in whose studio Raphael then worked. ‘In both paintings
the top is rounded, and in both a small polygonal temple, a charming
forecast of Bramante’s buildings, rises in the background. The central
part of the foreground is occupied by the long-bearded high priest, who
joins the hands of the bridal pair; Mary is attended by a group of graceful
virgins, while near Joseph stand the rejected suitors, the most passionate
of whom breaks his shrivelled wand. A closer examination of Raphael's
work, however, divulges so many points of divergence, as to make the
observer almost oblivious to its Peruginesque character. The transposition
of the bride and bridegroom with their attendant groups to opposite
sides of the canvas is a purely external difference and one of little signi-
ficance, but the conception and drawing of the individual figures and the
Brera. MILAN. 20. Route. 137
more delicate disposition of the grouping reveal the original and peculiar
genius of the younger artist’. — ‘Rajffael und Michelangelo’, by Prof. An-
ton Springer.
#272. Giotto, Madonna, the central part of an altar-piece of
which the wings are at Bologna.
#273. Mantegna, Pieta, painted about 1474.
‘It is a picture in which Mantegna’s grandest style is impressed,
foreshortened with disagreeable boldness, but with surprising truth,
studied from nature, and imitating light, shade, and reflection with a
carefulness and perseverance only equalled by Leonardo and Diirer; dis-
playing at the same time an excess of tragic realism, and a painful un
attractiveness in the faces of the Marys.’ — C. & C.
274, 279. Gentile da Fabriano, SS. Jerome and Dominic;
280. Andrea Solario, Portrait; 281. Luca Signorelli, Madonna. :
Room VI.: 283. C. Crivelli, Madonna and saints (1482); #284.
Giov. Bellini, Pieta, an early and genuinely impassioned work;
286. Cima da Conegliano, St. Jerome and other saints; 287. Ste-
fano da Zevio, Adoration of the Magi (signed, 1435); 288. Vitt.
Carpaccio, St. Stephen and the scribes (1514); 290. Palma Vecchio,
St. Helena and Constantine, St. Rochus and St. Sebastian ; *297.
Giov. Bellini, Madonna; *300. Cima, St. Peter, St. Paul, and John
the Baptist.
Room VII.: 306. Franc. Verla, Madonna with saints and
angels; Vitt. Carpaccio, 307. Presentation in the Temple, 309.
Betrothal of the Virgin; 315. Liberale da Verona, St. Sebastian ;
Franc. da Ponte, surnamed Bassano, 316. Descent from the Cross,
318. Autumn, 323. Winter,
Room VUI: 324. Guido Reni, SS, Paul and Peter; 326. Albani,
Dance of Cupids; 329. Garofalo, Madonna and Child; #334. Guer-
cino, Abraham and Hagar; 333. Dossi, St. Sebastian; *334. Fr.
Francia, Annunciation.
Room IX: 346. Hobbema, Mountain-landscape ; 352, 353. Bern.
Bellotto (Canaletto), Landscapes; 362, Tom. Wyck, Alchemist;
367. Jan Brueghel, Setting out for market; 372. Sal. Ruysdael,
Landscape; 377. W. van Mieris, Ksther; 384. Snyders, Stag-hunt.
Room X: *390. Velazquexs, Dead monk; 391. Salvator Rosa,
St. Paul the Hermit; 401, Gaspar Poussin, John the Baptist as a
child; 402. Pietro da Cortona, Madonna, the Child, and saints ;
Subleyras, 406. St. Jerome, 407. Crucifixion; 415. Sassoferrato,
Madonna; 432. Raphael Mengs, Portrait; 441. Van Keulen,
Portrait; *442. A. van Dyck, Madonna and Child, with St. An-
thony of Padua; 443. Jacob Jordaens, Abraham’s sacrifice; *446,
Van Dyck, Portrait; *447. Rubens, Last Supper, a late work of
admirable colouring, but somewhat coarse; 448. A. van Dyck,
Portrait; *449. Rembrandt, Portrait; 453. Mostert, St. Catharine.
Room XI: *456. Domenichino, Madonna and saints; 479.
Longhi, Madonna and saints.
Room XI1: By the window, Busts of Manzoni by Strazza and
Hayez by Argenti; by the wall, bust of Longhi by Pacetti.
138 | Route 20. MILAN. Museo Archeologico.
To the left, farther on, are several rooms containing modern
pictures, sketches of academicans, casts from the antique, Renais-
sance and modern sculptures. (An annual exhibition of art takes
place in these rooms, generally in September.) — Room XX: Ca-
nova, Vestal Virgin; Thorvaldsen, The Graces and Cupid. —
Room XXIV. contains a copy of Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper
by Marco da Oggionno.— The last but one of the rooms with mo-
dern pictures contains portraits, the best of which are those of
Niccolini by Ussi, Cavour and Manzoni by Hayez, and D’Azeglio
by Sala. — Returning hence to the ante-chamber, the visitor
enters the GALLERIA Oa@aronr to the right: Luini, Holy Family ;
Crivelli, Coronation of Mary (1493).
The Museo Archeologico on the ground-floor (admission daily
12-3, 50c.; Sundays free; entrance in the small Piazza di Brera,
or through a passage to the right on the ground-floor) contains
a rich but imperfectly arranged collection of antique, mediz-
val, and modern works of art, including some fine Renaissance
sculptures.
I. Room. Wall of the door (right): Sculptures from the Porta Tosa
(12th cent.) below a terracotta arch; by the last pillar, late Greek tomb-
relief; adjoining it a Renaissance ‘putto’ between inscriptions and sculp-
tures. Window-wall: Medizval sculpture from the tympanum of a church ;
J. Gothic bell of 1352; in the middle, four ancient porphyry columns from
S. Cristoforo. Next wall: Roman and medieval architectural fragments.
Fourth wall: Portions of the monument of Gaston de Foix (who fell at
the battle of Ravenna in 1512, see p. 333), from the monastery of S.
Marta, the most important being (*E.) a recumbent figure of the hero by
Bambaja. D. Monument of Lancino Curzio (d. 1513), by the same master.
F. Marble framework of a door from the Palazzo Medici, with the arms
and portraits of Francesco Sforza and Bianca Maria Visconti, attributed
to Michelozzo, the builder of the palace. In the corner, C. Monument of
Bishop Bagareto by And. Fusina (1517). — By the pillars to the right, and
between them: Ancient Roman sarcophagus; T. Roman cippus. Last pillar:
Fragment of a cippus, a youth leaning on a staff (Greek); to the left,
Head of Zeus (nose modern). B. Monument of Regina della Scala, wife
of Bernabo Visconti; bust of a lady (15th cent.). In the centre: A. Large
monument of Bernabd Visconti (d. 1385), erected during his lifetime (1354),
resting on twelve columns, and richly gilded; on the sarcophagus are
reliefs, in front the four evangelists, at the back the coronation of Mary ;
at the sides the Crucifixion and a Pieta; above, the equestrian statue of
the deceased. — II. Room. Above the door, Statuettes from the Porta
Orientale; on the right, suits of armour and bronze implements from the
graves of ‘Gauls discovered near Sestri Calende in 1867; in the cabinets,
relics from tombs excavated in the Nuovo Giardino Pubblico, terracottas,
crystal; in the corner, bronzes, including a head by Michael Angelo;
carvings in marble and ivory; Majolica ; medieval goldsmith’s work ;
Egyptian antiquities.
A little to the W., in the Piazza del Carmine, is the Gothic
church of 8. Maria del Carmine (Pl. D, 3, 4) of the 15th cent.,
now modernised, containing a Madonna in fresco by Luini. — To
the N. is the church of 8. Simpliciano (Pl. D, 3), a fine Roman-
esque structure, containing a triumphal arch adorned with ‘putti’
by Luini, and a Coronation of the Virgin by Borgognone (in the
apse), — Farther on, in the direction of the Porta Garibaldi, is
Bibl. Ambrosiana. MILAN. 20. Route. 139
the church of §. Maria Incoronata (Pl. D, 1), with four aisles,
built by Francesco and Bianca Sforza, The Capella Bossi contains
the tombs of Giov. Tolentino alee and Archbishop Gabr. Sforza.
To the W. of the Piazza del prenetiy beyond the Via Carlo Al-
berto (p. 132), lies the *Piazza de’ Mercanti (Pl. E. 5), the
central point of the medieval city, and formerly provided with
five gates. In the centre of the Piazza is the building which
he formerly the Palazzo della Ragione, a large hall erected in
228-33 by the podesta (or mayor) Tresseno, to whom an eques-
past statue was erected on the S. side with the inscription, ‘qui
solium struxit, Catharos ut debuit uxit’ (the Cathari were a heret-
ical sect). The ground-floor is now the corn- exchange, above which
is the Archivio Notarile. On the N. side of the piazza is the ancient
Palazzo della Cittt with a tower, erected in the 16th century, with
the exchange and telegraph-office on the ground-floor; on the S.
side are the Loggia degli Osii, erected in 1315, and the Collegio dei
Nobili (1625).
We proceed hence to the 8.W., through the archway and the
Via dei Ratti, to the Via and Piazza della Rosa.
The celebrated *Biblioteca Ambrosiana (Pl. D, E, 5), open
on week-days 10-3 o’clock (fee 1 fr. ; picture-gallery, or Pinacoteca,
open to the public on Wed., 10-21/2; entrance from the réading-
room to the right in the court) , contains 160,000 vols. of printed
books, and 8,000 MSS. and palimpsests, or codices rescripti, some
of them very valuable. Director: Cav. Sacerdote Ceriani, the
Orientalist. The library was founded in 1609 by the archbishop
Cardinal Fe ederigo Borromeo, to whom a statue was erected in front
of the building in 1865.
In the Courr, adjoining the porter’s lodge, is a fresco of the Mocking
of Christ, by Lwini.
The Biblioteca contains among other treasures the Codice Atlantico,
being a collection of original drawings and MSS. of Leonardo da Vinci;
Virgil with marginal notes by Petrarch; fragments of a MS. of Homer
illuminated, of the end of the Ath cent; a number of miniatures;
letters of S. Carlo Borromeo, Tasso, Galileo, Liguori, etc. Then, Christ
crowned with thorns, al fresco, Bernardino Luini; Cupid in marble, R.
Schadow ; several reliefs and bust of Byron by Thorvaldsen; mosaics, coins,
old woodcuts, and drawings by celebrated masters. — First Floor. First
door on the left —
Cabinet of Bronzes, containing busts of Canova and Thorvaldsen, the
latter by the master himself, and: pictures of no great value: 46. Raphael
Mengs, Pope Clement XIII.; 41. Venetian Master, St. Sebastian; 24. Lo-
renzo Lotto, Madonna. — Second door to the left: entrance to the —
Pinacoteca. I. and Il. Room, Engravings. — III. Room: in the middle
of the side-wall, Ambrogio Borgognone, Madonna enthroned and saints;
Moretto, Death of Peter Martyr; Mazzola, "Annunciation ; ; Botticelli, Madonna
with angels; Mabuse , Madonna and Child ; Dosso Dossi , Washing of the
feet. This room also contains Peruvian and Japanese antiquities , fine
works in metal, etc. — The small IV. Room, to the right, is adorned
with landscapes by Brueghel and other masters. — V. Room, to the left,
Borgognone, SS. Elizabeth and Francis; opposite , Borgognone, SS. Peter
Martyr and Christopher; School.of Rubens, Lot and his daughters. We
140 Route 20. MILAN. S. Maurizio.
iI now return through the II]. Room to the VI. Room: to the left, *Draw-
ijt | ings of the School of Leonardo da Vinci; G. Ferrari, Marriage of the Vir-
WH gin. Then **Raphael’s Cartoon of the ‘School of Athens’, which should be
1! carefully studied. The dilapidated condition of the fresco in the Vatican
makes this cartoon of great interest and value, since here only do we
| gain the full key to the artistic motives of the painter. The deviations
| of the fresco from the cartoon, with the exception of the sitting figure
added at the foot of the staircase, are unimportant.
;
On the next wall: Bramantino, Madonna with saints, Adoration of :
the Holy Child; M. da Oggtionno, Madonna; above the door, Bianchi,
iii Last Supper; Boltraffio, Portrait; School of Leonardo da Vinci, Gian Ga-
Wi leazzo Visconti; *“Luiné, Youthful Christ in an attitude of benediction;
| “Leonardo da Vinci, Isabella of Aragon; Luini, John the Baptist, Holy
fit Family (after Raphael). By the window-wall, Drawings by Leonardo da
iH Vinci and other masters; above, Caracci, Madonna (after Correggio). —
VII. Room: to the left, high up, Raphael, Cartoon; by the next wall,
Direr, *“Pen-and-ink sketches (landscape, the Passion) and a water-colour
(woman of Nuremberg); drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, including a head
of Maximilian Sforza when a boy and a profile of Maria Sforza.
At the back of the library is the venerable church of 8S. Sepolero |
(Pl. D, 5), dating from the 11th century. The Via del Bollo leads
' hence to the W. to the Piazza S. Borromeo , in which are situated
| the Palazzo Borromeo, the small church of 8S. Maria Podone, and a
. statue of S. Carlo Borromeo. — The Via 8. Borromeo and the Via
S. Maria alla Porta next lead to the Corso MaGEnta, on the left
side of which rises the small church of S$. Maurizio (Pl. ©, 5),
or Monastero Maggiore, erected in 1503-1519 by Giov. Dolcebuono,
a pupil of Bramante, containing *Frescoes by Luini, the best of
which are near the high-altar. — Opposite, to the right, is the
Palazzo Litta (P1. C, 5), with a handsome court, now oceupied by :
the Amministrazione delle Ferrovie dell’ Alta Italia.
Farther on in the Corso Magenta, not far from the Porta Magenta,
on the right, is situated the church of —
i *§. Maria delle Grazie (Pl. B, 5), an abbey-church of the 45th
blll cent., the Gothic nave of which alone belongs to the original
structure. The choir, transept, and dome are attributed to Bra-
mante.
The 4th chapel on the right contains frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari
(on the right the Crucifixion, on the left Christ crowned with thorns,
Christ scourged), executed in 1542, his last works, and an altar-piece
(Descent from the Cross) by Caravaggio. In the 6th chapel frescoes by |
Fiamingo. To the right, on the organ above, a Madonna by Lwini. In
the N. aisle John the Baptist by Bugiardini. The choir-stalls and some
BAdE | i of the monuments algo deserve notice. The sacristy contains two frescoes
hill |) by ZLuini, and good wood paintings on the cabinets.
In the N.E. angle of the small piazza to the W. of this church
| is the entrance to the refectory of the suppressed monastery of
ij | Sta. Maria delle Grazie (now a cavalry-barrack), containing the
iM celebrated **Last SupPpER oF LEONARDO DA VinNc1, painted before
Hi] 1499 (shown daily 9-4, admission 41 fr.; on Sundays, 12-3, and
Thursdays gratis; visitors knock at the door to the right; the
i ‘custode del cenacolo’ is generally to be found in the refectory). The
Vii picture is unfortunately in bad preservation, chiefly from having
Wi been painted on the wall in oils (before 1499). A fresco by Giov.
S. Ambrogio. MILAN. 20. Route. 141
Donato Montorfano (Crucifixion) of 1495, opposite the Last Supper,
is in much better condition and affords an insight into the state of
painting in Lombardy before the advent of Leonardo.
Jeplorable as is the condition of the Last Supper, the chief work
executed by Leonardo during his stay at Milan, the original alone ex-
hibits to its full extent the emotions which the master intended to ex-
press, and which even the best copies fail to reproduce. The motive of
the work has been well explained by Goethe: ‘The shock by which the
artist represents the company at the sacred repast as deeply agitated has
been produced by the Master’s words, One of you shall betray me. They
have been pronounced; the whole party is in dismay, while he himself
bows his head with downcast eyes. His whole attitude, the motion of
his arms and hands, all seem to repeat with heavenly resignation, and
his silence to confirm, the mournful words — It cannot be otherwise.
One of you shall betray me!” Comp. also p. lii.
The Via delle Oche and the Via S. Vittore lead hence to the
S.E. to the Piazza $8. Amproaio, with the church of —
*S. Ambrogio (PI. ©, 6), founded by St. Ambrose in the 4th
cent. on the ruins of a temple of Bacchus, and dating in its present
Romanesque form, with its peculiar galleries, from the 12th century.
The fine atrium in front of the church, containing ancient tomb-
stones, inscriptions , and half-obliterated frescoes (probably by Ze-
nale), seems, like the fagade, to have preserved the architectural
forms of the original building. The gates of this church are said to
be those which St. Ambrose closed against the Emp. Theodosius
after the cruel massacre of Thessalonica (389). There is a portrait
of the saint on the left side of the principal entrance. The Lom-
bard kings and German emperors formerly caused themselves to be
crowned here with the iron crown, which since the time of Fre-
derick Barbarossa has been preserved at Monza (p. 147).
INTERIOR. On the right and left of the side entrance on the right:
frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari, representing the Bearing of the Cross, the
three Maries, and the Descent from the Cross. 2nd Chapel on the right
(Cappella delle Dame): a kneeling *Statue of St. Marcellina, by Pacetti.
5th Chapel on the right: *Legend of St. George, frescoes by Bernardino
Lanini. In the entrance to the sacristy is the Cappella S. Satiro with
mosaics of the 5th century. 6th Chapel: Madonna with St. John and
Jerome, by Luini. By the pulpit are a bronze eagle, a figure of St. Ambrose
(12th cent.), and an early Christian sarcophagus of the 6th century. The
canopy over the high-altar, which is adorned with reliefs of the 8th cent.,
recently gilded, is borne by four columns of porphyry. The high-altar still
retains its original decoration intact, consisting of reliefs on silver and
gold ground (in front), enriched with enamel and gems, executed in the
Carlovingian period by Volfoinus, a German (covered, shown only on
payment of 3 fr.). In front of the high-altar is the tombstone of Emp.
Lewis II. (d. 875). The choir contains an ancient episcopal throne. By
the high-altar is an *Ecce Homo, al fresco, by Zuwini, under glass. In
the Tribuna *Mosaics of the 9th cent., earlier than those of St. Mark’s at
Venice: Christ in the centre, at the sides the history of St. Ambrose. —
At the entrance to the Crypt, Christ among the scribes, a fresco by Bor-
gognone. The modernised crypt contains the tombs of SS. Ambrose, Pro-
tasius, and Gervasius. The brazen serpent on a column in the nave is
said to be the one which was raised by Moses in the wilderness.
A little to the S.E. is situated the spacious Macello Pubblico
or slaughter-house (Pl. B, 6, 7).
The Via Lanzone (with the Palazzo Visconti on the left) leads
142 - Route 20. MILAN. S. Lorenzo.
heuce to the Corso pt Porta T1crinEsB, in which we proceed to the
right in the direction of the gate. On the left we soon perceive a
large ancient *CoLonNADE (PI. D, 7) of sixteen Corinthian columns,
standing detached from other buildings, the most important relic of
the Roman Mediolanum, near which is the entrance to —
#§, Lorenzo (P1.D,7), the most ancient church in Milan. Whether
the handsome interior once formed the principal hall of the therma,
or of a palace of Maximian (4th cent. ), to which the above-mentioned
colonnade belonged, or a very ancient Christian place of worship,
like §. Vitale at Ravenna, is uncertain, It was subsequently altered
at least three times, the last time by Martino Bassi in the 16th
century. It is octagonal in form, and covered with adome. On
the four principal sides are large semicircular apses in two stories,
each borne by four columns alternately octagonal and round, and
the whole structure is simple and dignified. At the back of the
high altar is the Cappella S. Ippolito, containing the tomb of Maria
Visconti. -To the right of the church is the Chapel of St. Aqui-
linus, containing mosaics of the 6th and 7th cent. (Christ and
the apostles), and an ancient Christian sarcophagus supposed to be
that of the founder, the Gothic king Ataulph (411-16). The
entrance to the chapel is adorned with an antique marble coping.
Farther S. is the Porta Ticinese, which was originally intended
to commemorate the Battle of Marengo and in 1844 received the
inscription ‘Paci Populorum Sospite’. Adjacent rises the ancient
church of §. Eustorgio (Pl. D, 8), founded in the Ath cent., re-
erected in the Gothic style by Tosano Lombardo in 1278, renewed
in the bad taste of the 17th cent. by Richini, and recently again
restored. The facade is modern.
ist Chapel to the right, Mural monument of Giac. Stefano Brivo
(d. 1484); Ath Chapel to the right, Monument of Stefano Visconti; 6th
Chapel, Monuments of Gaspare Visconti and his wife Agnes (d. 1417).
Farther on, on the same side, the Cappella de’ Magi, containing a relief
of 1347 and a late-Romanesque sarcophagus, in which the ‘bones of the
Magi’ were preserved until they were presented to the city of Cologne by
Frederick Barbarossa after the conquest of Milan in 1162. By the high-
altar are reliefs of the Passion, dating from the 14th century. At the
back of the choir is the *Cappella Portinari, with a fine cupola and a
charming frieze of angels, by Michelozzo (after 1462). It contains the
magnificent Gothic tomb of St. Peter the Martyr by @. Balduceto of Pisa
(1339) ; the walls are adorned with frescoes by Vinc. Voppa.
§. Maria presso 8. Celso (Pl. E, 8), near the Porta Lodovica,
possesses a handsome atrium attributed to Bramante, and a fagade
of which the upper part was constructed by Galeazzo Alessi. On
the right and left of the portal are Adam and Eve by Stoldo Lorenzi.
In the INTERIOR is a picture by Paris Bordone, St. Jerome adoring the
Child (2nd altar on the right); Gaudenzio Ferrari, Baptism of Christ (be-
hind the high-altar); Borgognone, Madonna adoring the Child, surrounded
by John the Baptist, St. Rochus, and the donors of the picture (1st cha-
pel on the left); above it, Sassoferrato, Madonna. The 2nd chapel on the
ieft contains a sarcophagus with the relics of St. Celsus, In the sacristy
are some fine specimens of goldsmith’s work.
Adjacent to this church is S, Celso, a Romanesque edifice,
S. Alessandro. MILAN. 20. Route. 143
partly removed in 1826 and now possessing few remains of the ori-
ginal structure.
The Corso S. Cetso (Pl. E, 7, 8) leads back from this point
to the interior of the city. To the right in the Piazza S. Eufemia
is the church of that name (Pl. E, 7), dating from the 5th cent.,
but entirely modernised. Farther towards the N. is situated —
S. Alessandro (Pl. KE, 6; in the Via Amedei, to the right), erect-
ed in 1602; itis a reduced and in the interior successful copy of St.
Peter’s at Rome, with two W. towers. It is the most sumptuously
decorated church in Milan, but destitute of works of art. High-
altar adorned with precious stones. — Adjacent is the Palazzo
Trivulzio, containing an art-collection in which the most note-
worthy objects are a portrait by Antonello da Messina, a Madonna
by -Mantegna, and the tomb of Azzo Visconti (d. 1329) from S.
Gottardo.
We return by the Via Lupetta and the Via Torino to the Piazza
del Duomo. To the right in the V1a Torrtno is the small church of
S. Satiro (Pl. E, 5, 6), founded in the 9th cent., and re-erected
by Bramante and his pupil Swardi in the 15th century. The ap-
parent choir is only painted in perspective. The octagonal *Sacristy
with a handsome frieze by Caradosso, halfway up the wall, is also
by Bramante. At the end of the left transept is a curious little
building with a cupola, belonging, like the belfry, to the original
structure; it contains a Descent from the Cross, in terracotta, by
Caradosso.
The church of 8. Giorgio al Palazzo (Pl. D, 6), in the Via
Torino, contains an *Entombment by Luini. — Farther to the N.,
in the Piazza S. Marta, is a Monument by Luigi Belli, erected in
1881 in memory of the Italians who fell at Mentana.
To the 8. in the Piazza del Duomo, opposite the cathedral, are
the Palazzo Reale and the Archiepiscopal Palace, both already men-
tioned (p. 132). The Prazza Fontana (Pl. F, 5), to the KE. of the
Pal. Arcivescovile, is adorned with a statue of Beccaria (d. 1794 ;
comp. p. 134) by Grandi, erected in 1871. Adjacent is the Pa-
lazzo di Giustizia (Pl. F, 5), built by Vine. Seregni; on the portal
is a tablet commemorating the Italian patriots committed by the
Austrians to the fortress of Spielberg in 1521.
The Via Brolo leads hence to the 8. to the Piazza S. Stefano,
with the simple Renaissance church of that name (Pl. F, 6). The
Via dell’ Ospedale leads S.W. to the Corso di Porta Romana.
The *Ospedale Maggiore (Pl. F, 6), a vast and remarkably fine
brick structure, half Gothic and half Renaissance in style, begun
in 1457 by Antonio Filarete of Florence, is one of the largest
hospitals in existence, and contains no fewer than nine courts.
The extensive principal court, surrounded by arcades, is by Richini
(17th cent.); the court to the right of it is ascribed to Bramante.,
The edifice is entirely covered externally with terracotta, in a style
144 Route 20. MILAN. Giardini Pubblici.
frequently observed in other Milanese buildings, but its facade,
with its rich window-mouldings, is superior to any other structure
of the kind at Milan. In the chapel are two paintings by Francesco
de Vico, containing portraits of Francesco and Bianca Maria Sforza,
the founders of the hospital.
Farther on, to the S. (entrance in the Corso Porta Romana), is
the church of 8. Nazaro (Pl. F, 6, 7), with pictures by Bernardino
Lanini (*Martyrdom of St. Catharine), a handsome carved altar, and
ancient stained-glass windows.
On the N.E. side of the cathedral begins the broad and bustling
*Corso Vittorio Emmanuele (PI. F, G, 4, 5), which, with its pro-
longation the Corso Porta Venezia, leads to the Giardini Pubblici
and the station. This is the principal business street in Milan,
containing the best shops. At No. 22 is an antique statue, known
as ‘L’uomo di pietra’. Farther on, to the left, is the church of —
S. Carlo Borromeo (PI. F, A), a rotunda in the style of the
Pantheon at Rome, 156 ft. in height, consecrated in 1847. The ad-
jacent Galleria de Cristoforis, now occupied with shops, was erected
by Pizzala in 1830-32.
To the right, farther on, at the corner of the Via Monforte ,
the small ehurch of S. Babila (Pl. G, 4), which is supposed to 00+
cupy the site of an ancient temple of the sun. Adjacent is an old
Column with a lion, the cognizance of this quarter of the town.
In the Via Monforte is situated the Palazzo di Prefettura (Pl. G,
H,4), with a modern facade. — To the S. of this point, in the Via
del Conservatorio, is the church of 8. Maria della Passione( Pl. H, 5),
with a spacious dome by Crist. Solari (1530), and a facade of the
{7th century. It contains a *Last Supper by Gaud. Ferrari (left
transept), a *Pieta by Luini (behind the high-altar), and the tomb
of Abp. Birago by Fusina (1495; right transept). The ceiling of
the sacristy was painted by Borgognone. The Conservatoire of
Music occupies the old monastery buildings.
In the vicinity is the church of S. Pietro in Gessate (Pl. G, 5),
re-constructed in the 15th cent., and containing frescoes of the 15th
cent. and a statue of Senator Grifo (d. 1493).
The Corso Vittorio Emmanuele is prolonged to the Porta Venezia
by the Corso Porta Venezia (Pl. G, H, 2, 3, 4). On the left, on
this side of the canal, is the Archiepiscopal Seminary (Pl. F, G, 4),
with a fine court by Gius. Meda (16th cent.). Then, more to the
left, Nos. 59-61, the Pal. Ciani (Pl. G, 3), completed in 1861,
with rich ornamentation in terracotta. Farther on, on the right, is
the Pal. Saporiti (Pl. G, 3), another modern building, with Ionic
columns, and reliefs by Marchesi.
The *Giardini Pubblici (Pl. F,G, 2, 3), between the Porta Venezia
and the Porta Nuova, much extended in 1861, and containing fine
avenues and several sheets of water, are the favourite promenade
Museo Civico. MILAN. 20. Route. 145
of the Milanese, especially on Sunday afternoons. The broad chest-
nut avenue on the N. side, extending between these two gates, and
planted on the old ramparts (Bastione), is a fashionable drive to-
wards sunset. A broad flight of steps ascends to the older part of
the gardens, opened in 1785, in the centre of which is the Salone
(Pl. F, G, 4), a square building containing the new municipal Mu-
seo Artistico (open daily 1-4, adm. 4 fr., Sundays 20c.).
GALLERY and Room I.: Drawings by early and modern masters. —
Room II.: Works of the Milan school of the 17th cent.; the large town
banner of St. Ambrose; coins, chiefly Milanese from the Roman period
onwards; fine medals. — Rooms III. and IV.: Modern paintings; bust of
Manzoni by Strazza. — Room V.: Ceramic collection, 01d and modern
Fayence , porcelain, glass, wood-carvings, woven fabrics. — Room VI.:
Old paintings, among which is a youthful work of Correggio — Room VII.:
Models by Pompeo Marchesi, Canova (Hebe), and others.
The New Grarprno Pussriico, between the Via Palestro and
Via Manin, is adorned with a statue of the Milanese poet Carlo
Porta and an Italia by Puttinati. — In the Piazza Cavour, outside
the 8. W. entrance, rises a bronze statue of Cavour by Tabacchi on
a lofty pedestal of granite; the figure of Clio in front is by Tan-
tardini (1865). — The Villa Reale (P1. G, 3), a plain modern build-
ing in the Via Palestro, contains a few works of art.
In the Via Manin, to the W., is the Museo Civico (Pl. F, 2;
admission on Tues., Wed., and Sat., 14-3 o’clock, 1/5 fr.; on Thurs.
gratis), containing natural history collections: on the 1st floor
paleontology and ethnography (also a phrenological collection); on
the 2nd floor zoology, comprising one of the finest collections of
reptiles in Europe, founded by Jan (d. 1866). At the entrance are
busts of Jan and Cristoforis, former directors. —- Opposite stands
the Palazzo Melzi, containing a few paintings.
At the N.W. angle of the city lies the spacious Piazza p’ARMI
(Pl. B, ©, 3), or drilling-ground, 783 yds. long and 748 yds. wide,
with the Castello, once the seat of the Visconti and the Sforza, and
now a barrack. The corner-towers and part of the walls connecting
them on the 8.W. side are the sole remains of the original build-
ing. On the N.E. side of the piazza is the Arena (Pl. C, 2), a
kind of circus for races, etc., which was constructed under Na-
poleon I., and can accommodate 30,000 spectators (fee 1/9 fr.).
Opposite the castle, on the N.W. side of the Piazza is the
“Arco del Sempione, or Arco della Pace (Pl. B, 2; ascent 50c.), a
triumphal arch in the Roman style constructed entirely of white marble
from designs by L. Cagnola, begun in 1804 by Napoleon as a ter-
mination to the Simplon route (p. 27), and completed by the Emp.
Francis in 1838. Most of the sculptures are by Pompeo Marchesi.
To the N.W. of the city lies the new *Cemetery (Cimitéro
Monumentale), designed by C. Macciachini, 500 acres in area, en-
closed by colonnades, and one of the finest ‘campi santi’ in Italy.
BAEDEKER,. Italy I. 6th Edit. 10
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146 Route 21. SARONNO. From Milan
The numerous and handsome monuments, among which those of
the Sonzogno, Turati, Bramvilla, and Cicogna families deserve
special mention, form an admirable museum of modern Milanese
sculpture. In the last section is situated the ‘Tempio di Crema-
zione, for the burning of dead bodies, presented to the town in
1876. Fine view of the Alps.
21. From Milan to Como and Lecco.
A. Srsam TRAMWAY FROM MILAN TO Como.
The cars start from the Stazione Erba, Foro Bonaparte (Pl. C, 4), to
which another line runs from the Piazza del Duomo. Seven trains (en-
gine and two carriages) daily in 2 hrs.; fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 30¢., return
tickets (andata e ritorno) 5 fr. 60, 4 fr. 45¢. Tickets (single or return)
may also be obtained at Milan or Saronno for the principal places on
Lake Como. :
The principal station on this route is (1/2 hr.) Saronno (Albergo
Madonna), a large village on the Lura, with 5000 inhabitants.
The *SANTUARIO DELLA Brata VERGINE, a celebrated pilgrimage-
church here, was built at different times between the end of the
15th and the end of the 17th cent., chiefly in a pompous rococo
style. It contains a series of admirable frescoes.
The paintings in the interior of the dome represent a concert of
angels, and are by Gaudenzio Ferrari. Round the drum are several wooden
statues by Andrea Fusina Milanese. The frescoes immediately below the
drum are by Lanini, those in the next section by Cesare da Sesto and
Bernard. Luini (SS. Rochus and Sebastian). The remaining frescoes are
all by Luini, who, as the story goes, sought an asylum in the sanctuary
of Saronno after killing a man in self-defence, and had to work at the
bidding of the monks. In the passage leading to the choir are depicted
the Marriage of the Virgin and Christ among the doctors; in the choir
itself, the “Adoration of the Magi and the Presentation in the Temple.
Above, in the panels and lunettes, are Sibyls, Evangelists, and Church
Fathers. A small apse built out from the choir contains paintings of *S.
Apollonia to the right, and *S. Catharine to the left, each with an angel.
Saronno is also connected with Milan by a short Rattway (13!/2 M.,
in 40 min.; fares 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 5, 50 c. return-tickets 2 fr. 85, 1 fr. 60,
90 c.). The intermediate stations are Caronno, Garbagnate, Bollate, Novate,
rire t bat (p. 149). — A Tramway also runs from Saronno to Tradate
(p. 166).
At Como (p. 148), the terminus of the tramway line is in the
Borgo 8. Agostino, on the bank of the lake.
B. RAILbwAy FRoM MILAN TO Como AND LECCO,
RAILWAY FROM Mitan To Como, 30 M., in 13/4 hr. (fares 5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 85,
2fr. 55c¢.). Through-tickets may be obtained at the railway-station of
Milan for Como, Tremezzina, Cadenabbia, Bellagio, Menaggio, and Colico.
— From Minan to Lecco, 32 M., railway in 1%/4-2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 85,
A fr. 10, 2 fr. 95 ¢.).
The lines to Como and Lecco follow the same direction as far as
Monza, traversing a fertile plain, luxuriantly clothed with vineyards,
mulberry - plantations, and fields of maize, and intersected by
innumerable canals and cuttings for purposes of irrigation. 41/9 M.
Sesto-S. Giovanni.
to Lecco. MONZA. 21. Route. 147
8M. Monza (Falcone; Alb. del Castello, near the station) is a
town with 15,500 inhabitants. Leaving the station and following
the Via Italia to the right, we pass the church of 8S. Maria in Istrada
(2nd on the right), with a Gothic brick facade of 1327, and soon
reach the *CaTHEDRAL, the chief object of interest. It was erected
in the 14th cent. in the Lombard Gothic style by Marco di Campione
on the site of a church founded in 595 by the Lombard queen
Theodolinda, and contains double aisles and transept, flanked with
chapels on both sides. Above the portal is a very curious relief
representing Queen Theodolinda amid her treasures; below, the
Baptism of Christ.
InTERIOR. In the left transept is the plain sarcophagus of Queen Theo-
dolinda; in the E. transept reliefs of the 13th cent., supposed to represent the
coronation of Emp. Otho III., or that of Henry III. — In a casket forming
the centre of a richly-decorated cross over the altar, to the right of the
choir, is preserved the celebrated Iron Crown, with which 34 Lombard
kings were crowned. This venerable relic was last used at the coronation
of the Emp. Charles V., of Napoleon in 1805, and of Emp. Ferdinand I. in
1838. It consists of a broad hoop of gold adorned with precious stones,
round the interior of which is a thin strip of iron, said to have been
made from a nail of the true Cross brought by the empress Helena from
Palestine. In 1859 it was carried off by the Austrians, but after the peace
of 1866 was restored to its former repository. (Fee for seeing the crown,
5 fr.) — The *Treasury (fee 1 fr.) contains several objects of historical in-
terest: a hen with seven chickens in gold, representing Lombardy and its
seven provinces, executed by order of Queen Theodolinda; the queen’s
crown, fan, and comb; two silver loaves, presented by Napoleon I. after
his coronation; the cross which was placed on the breast of the Lombard
kings at the moment of their coronation; a richly-adorned book -cover
with an inscription of Theodolinda; reliquary, cross, and missals of Beren-
garius; goblet of sapphire, with a stem of Gothic workmanship; Gothic
goblet of Gian Galeazzo Visconti; fine diptychs of the 4-6th cent.; Gothic
carvings in ivory; ‘ampulles’ from the Roman catacombs (vessels with
a dark-red deposit supposed to be the blood of martyrs); Byzantine pil-
grim-flasks from Palestine; model of the iron crown. A cabinet outside
the treasury contains the mummy of one of the Visconti, who died in 1413.
The Broletto, or town-hall, of the 13th cent., with round-
arched windows and tower, is believed to be part ofa palace of
the Emp. Frederick I. and the Lombard kings. The royal Summer
Palace near Monza is a large building with an extensive and
beautiful park, traversed by the Lambro. The church of the
Madonna di Tirano contains frescoes by Luini, Gaudenzio Ferrari,
and Cesare da Sesto.
Tramway from Monza to Milan and to Barzano, see p. 128.
The lines to Como and Lecco divide at Monza. The former line
tuns to the N.W., affording pleasant views, to the right, of the
fertile Brianza (p. 149), with its numerous country-residences. The
train passes through several tunnels. 121/. M. Desio; 141/, M.
Seregno, a town with 7300 inhabitants. Farther on, the long,
indented Monte Resegone rises on the right. Beyond (18M.) Cam-
nago, whence a branch-line diverges to Seveso S. Pietro (p. 149),
the train passes through a short tunnel. 241/5 M. Cucciago. Above
(28 M.) Camerlata rises the lofty old tower of the Castello Baradello,
10%
14S Route 21. COMO.
which was occasionally occupied by Frederick Barbarossa, — 30 M.
Como; omnibus from the station to the quay 50 c., included in
through-tickets. (Continuation of the railway to Lugano, see p. 160.)
Como. — *Horer Vouita; *Iraria, R. 3, D. incl. wine 5, B. 2, A. 4/4,
L. 3/4 fr., both at the harbour, with cafés and restaurant; ALB. DEL CaP-
PELLO, adjoining the Hét. Volta, good Italian cuisine. — Café Cavour, near
the quay; *Zrattoria di Frascont Confalonieri, at the end of a short street
to the right of that leading straight from the harbour; Baths in the lake
by the Giardino Pubblico, to the left, outside the pier.
Como (705 ft.), the capital of a province, with 11,000 inhab.
(commune 25,600), and large silk-factories, the birthplace of the
elder and younger Pliny and of the electrician and philosopher Volta
(d. 1826; whose Statue by P. Marchesi is on the W. side of the
town near the quay), lies at the S. end of the S.W. arm of the
Lake of Como, and is enclosed by an amphitheatre of mountains.
The *CaTHEDRAL, begun in the Lombard-Gothic style in 1396,
and altered in the Renaissance style by Tommaso Rodari (choir,
transept, outside of nave) in 1513-21, is built entirely of marble,
and is one of the best in N. Italy. The dome is modern. The
greater part of the beautiful plastic ornamentation is by Rodari
and other contemporary Lombard artists. Over the fine N. portal
are reliefs (adoration of the Magi) and statuettes (Mary with 8S. Ab-
bondio, St. Protus, etc.). At the sides of the main entrance are
statues of the elder and the younger Pliny, erected in 1498.
InreRIOR. The gaudy vaulting, restored in 1838 at a cost of
600,000 fr., destroys the effect of the fine proportions, which resemble
those of the Certosa near Pavia (p. 176). The windows of the portal
contain good modern stained glass, representing the history of S. Abbon-
dio; there are others to the right of the entrance and in the choir. — To
the right of the entrance is the monument of Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio, a
benefactor of the town, erected in 1861. Farther on, to the right, bed
*Altar, di S. Abbondio, with handsome wood-carving, and scenes from the
life of the saint; adjoining the *Adoration of the Magi, by Bern. Luini, and
the Flight into Egypt, by Gaud. Ferrari. Over the altar of St. Jerome
a Madonna by B. Luini. In the N. TRANSEPT the Altare del Crocefisso of
1498, with a fine statue of St. Sebastian. In the Cuorr the Apostles, by
Pompeo Marchesi. The Sacristy contains pictures by Guido Rent, Paolo
Veronese, etc. In the Lerr Arste, the altar of the Mater Dolorosa with an
Entombment by Tommaso Rodari (1498). At the Altare di S. Giuseppe:
G. Ferrari, Nuptials of the Virgin, in style resembling Raphael; B. Luini,
Nativity; St. Joseph, a statue by P. Marchesi, and a basrelief below,
the last work of this master; at the entrance the busts of Pope Inno-
cent XI. (Odescalchi) and Carlo Ravelli, bishop of Como.
Adjoining the church is the Town Hall (Broletto), constructed
of alternate courses of different-coloured stones, and completed in
1215. Behind the cathedral is the Theatre, erected in 1813. The
church of S. Fedele, of the 10th cent., is in a remote part of the
town. The Porta del Torre, a massive five-storied structure, is
also worthy of note.
On the promenade outside the town is the church Del Cro-
cefisso, richly decorated with marble and gold, of the 17th cent.;
1/, hr. farther, to the left, on the slope of the mountain, is the fine
old Basilica S. Abbondio of the 14th century. — The Castello Ba-
BRIANZA. 22. Route. 149
radello (p. 147), reached by a tolerable footpath in 1/g hr., is an
excellent point of view.
WaLKk on the E. bank of the lake. Two roads lead from Como along
the slopes on the E. bank. The lower passes several hamlets and villas.
The upper (after 40 min.) affords a view of magnificent snow-mountains
towards the W., and leads by Capo-Vico, Sopra-Villa, and Cazzanore (all
in the parish of Blevio), leaving the Villa Pliniana (p. 153) far below, to
(3 M.) Riva di Palanzo (osteria on the lake), whence the traveller may
cross to the steamboat-station Carate on the opposite bank. Or the walk
may be shortened by descending to (21/2 hrs.) Torno (steamboat-station).
The railway from Monza to Lecco skirts the S.E. slopes of the
beautiful range of hills of the Brianza (see below), studded with num-
erous villas of the wealthy Milanese. — 12/9 M. Arcore; 151/ M.
Usmate. From (19 M.) Cernusco-Merate a pleasant excursion may be
taken to the lofty Montevecchia, situated towards the N.W. (41/9 hr. ;
the church of Montevecchia commands an excellent view of the
Lombard plain, Milan, Cremona, Novara, and part of the Brianza,
etc.; good wine, but a poor inn; pleasant return-route by Missaglia,
with a guide, 11/4 hr.; thence by carriage to Merate; fine views).
The village of Merate (Albergo del Sole), situated 1M. from the
station, was formerly fortified; pretty villas. — 21M. Olgiate-Mol-
gora; then a tunnel, beyond which a pleasing view of the valley of
the Adda is obtained to the right. The train descends, crosses the
stream by aniron bridge, joins the Lecco and Bergamo line at (27!/)M. )
Calolzio, and reaches (32 M.) Lecco in 10 min. (see p. 159).
22. From Milan to Bellagio. The Brianza.
Rattway from Milan to (27 M.) Incino-Erba (station, Pl. C, 4) in 11/2
13/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 25, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 55¢.; return-tickets 6 fr. $0, 4 fr.,
2 fr. 80. c.), — Tramway from Milan to Bellagio in progress (comp. p. 128).
Brianza is the name of the undulating, grassy, partially wooded,
and extremely fertile tract, 12 M.in length, 6 M. in breadth, ex-
tending between the Seveso and the Adda, and stretching to the
N. to the triangular peninsula which divides the Como and Lecco
lakes. The soil is very fertile, and the whole district studded with
villas peeping out from vines, orchards, and mulberry plantations.
In the centre are several small lakes (Lago d’Annone, Pusiano,
Alserio, Segrino, and Montorfano).
The Rarnway FRoM MILAN To INCINO- ERBA traverses a well-
cultivated and well-watered plain, As far as (21/, M.) Bovisa it
coincides with the line to Saronno (p. 146). 41/. M. Affori; 5 M.
Bruzzano; 51/, M. Cormanno. The train now crosses the small
Seveso, 6 M. Cusano; 71/) M. Paderno; 9 M. Palazzolo. Beyond
(10 M.) Varedo the train again crosses the Seveso and reaches
(11 M.) Bovisio, 12 M. Cesano- Maderno. From (14 M.) Seveso-
S. Pietro a branch-line diverges to (11/4 M.) Camnago (p. 147), a
station on the Monza-Como railway, which our line crosses near
(15 M.) Meda. 16 M. Cabiate; 17!/3 M. Mariano. Near (18!/, M.)
Carugo-Giussano the country becomes hilly. 20 M. Arosio, pleas-
150 Route 22. CANZO.
antly situated amid vine-clad hills, some of which are crowned with
villages and country-houses. 24M. Inverigo, a pretty village, in the
valley of the Lambro. On an eminence rises the *Rotonda, one of
the finest villas in the Brianza, with a park and admirably-kept
garden, and commanding an extensive view. The Villa Crivelli is
famous for its cypresses. The train now ascends the valley of the
Lambro. Beyond (23 M.) Lambrugo, the Lago d’Alserio is passed
on the left and the Lago di Pusiano on the right. At (251/) M.)
Ponte Nuovo the train enters the charming plain of Erba (Pian
d Erba). Then —
27 M. Incino-Erba, the terminus of the railway, and the station
for the village of Incino and the small town of Erba. Incino, the
ancient Liciniforum, contains a lofty Lombard campanile. Erba
(1020 ft.; Albergo) lies a little to the N., on the road from Como to
Lecco, which here traverses the fertile and terraced slopes of a
small hill. It contains several handsome villas, among which is
the Villa Amalia, on the N.W. side, commanding a charming view
of the Brianza.
From Erza to Como, about 7!/2 M. The road at first traverses the
Pian d’Erba (see above) for a short distance, and then begins to ascend.
Near Albesio a striking retrospect is obtained of the plain and the lakes
of Alserio, Pusiano, and Annone, commanded on the E. by the Corni di
Canzo (4512 ft.) and the Resegone di Lecco (6161 ft.). Beyond Cassano is
a curious leaning campanile. Farther on, to the S. of the road, is the
sharp ridge of Montorfano, near a small lake. The church of Camnago,
a village to the N., contains the tomb of Volta (p. 147). — The view of
the Lake of Como is concealed by the beautifully wooded Monte S. Mau-
rizio, till the end of the route. The road now descends gently and enters
Como by the Porta Milanese. Como, see p. 148
From Ersa To Lecco, about 91/2 M. Soon after leaving Erba the
the road crosses the Lambro, which is here conducted by an artificial
channel to the Lago di Pusiano. Penzano on the N. bank of the Lago di
Pusiano is next reached, and then Pusiano itself. To the N. a beautitul
glimpse of the Vall’ Assina (see below) and the Corni di Canzo, and, to
the S., of the Brianza. Near Civate is the double Lago d’Annone (E. rises
the Resegone di Lecco), connected by the Ritorto, which the road follows,
with the Lake of Lecco. The latter is reached at Malgrate, on the W. bank,
a place with numerous silk-factories. Opposite to it lies Lecco (see p. 159).
From Ersa To Briuacio, about 15 M.; a highly interesting
excursion. — We at first follow the road to Lecco (see above) which
before reaching the Lambro crosses the road from Seregno (p. 147)
and Bellagio. The latter leads to the N., following the course of
the Lambro, It soon enters a mountainous district, and the scenery
becomes more attractive. Caslino, possessing considerable silk-
factories (filatoje), rises picturesquely on the slope of the hill.
4M. Canzo (Croce di Malta, the first house on the left; a
pleasant liqueur, called Vespetro, is manufactured at Canzo) is al-
most contiguous to Asso, numbering together 3200 inhabitants. At
the entrance of Asso is a large silk-manufactory (Casa Versa).
The road now gradually ascends for a considerable distance in
the picturesque valley of the Lambro, the Vat’ Assrna, the slopes
of which are well wooded; it passes through several villages, (2M.)
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LAKE OF COMO. 23. Route. 151
Lasnigo, (2 M.) Barni, and Magreglio, where the ascent becomes
more rapid; first view of both arms of the Lake of Como from the
eminence near the (1 M.) Chapel.
Delightful *Survey of the entire E. arm to Lecco and far be-
yond, from the back of the first church of (11/4 M.) Civenna, with
its graceful tower. The road now runs for 2 M. along the shady
brow of the mountain, which extends into the lake at Bellagio;
beyond the chapel the following striking views are obtained: the
W. arm of the lake (of Como), the Tremezzina with the Villa Car-
lotta and Cadenabbia, the E. arm (Lake of Lecco), a large portion
of the road on the KE. bank, the entire lake from the promontory of
Bellagio to Domaso (p. 157), and the rising ground with the Ser-
belloni park.
The road winds downwards for about 3 M., passing the Villa
Giulia (p. 156) on the right, and, 1/g M. from Bellagio, the church-
yard of that place, containing the monument of the painter Carlo
Bellosio, several of whose pictures are to be seen at Bellagio. From
Civenna to the hotels at Bellagio on the lake (p. 154) 2 hrs. walk.
A longer route, which will reward the pedestrian, is by the Monte
S. Primo (5586 ft.). Ascent from Canzo with a guide in 4-5 hrs., descent
to Bellagio 3 hrs. (fatiguing, over debris). Magnificent panorama from
the summit, comprising the Brianza as far as Milan, and the Lake of
Como to the N. as far as the Alps from Monte Rosa to the Spliigen.
23. Lake of Como.
Plan of Excursion. The most beautiful point on the Lake of Como is
Bellagio (p. 154), which is admirably situated for a stay of several days
and for short excursions. — The Lakes of Como and Lugano (p. 160) and
the Lago Maggiore (R. 26) may be visited from Milan most expeditiously
as follows: train or tramway in 13/s-2 hrs. to Como (Cathedral); proceed
by steamboat in the afternoon in 1!/2 hr. to Cadenabbia or Bellagio, and
spend the night there. In the evening and next morning visit Villa Car-
lotta, Serbelloni, and Melzi; by steamboat in 1/4 hr., or by rowing-boat,
to Menaggio; thence by omnibus in 2 hrs. to Porlezza, in time for the
steamboat which starts for Lugano (p. 161), arriving early enough to leave
time for the ascent of Monte S. Salvatore. From Lugano diligence to
Luino in the morning in 23/; hrs,; steamboat from Luino in 11/2 hr. to the
Borromean Islands, thence in 1 hr. to Arona. Railway from Arona to
Milan, see p. 167. Taken in a reverse direction this excursion is even
more to be recommended, as Bellagio, which is the great point of attrac-
tion, terminates it. The CrrcuLar Tour TIcKETs (see p. xvii) issued for
this excursion are economical and convenient, but their holders must be
prepared to lose a little time, as they are bound to use the steamer from
Lugano to Ponte Tresa (starting every afternoon).
Steamboat thrice daily from Como to Colico in 41/4-51!/2 hrs. (fares 4 fr.
50, 2 fr. 45 ¢.); twice daily from Como to Lecco in 3!/2 hrs.; once daily
from Lecco to Colico in 33/4 hrs. Stations between Como and Colico: Cer-
nobbio, Molirasio, Torno, Carate (pier), Palanzo, Pognana, Torriggia, Nesso,
Argegno (pier), Sala, Campo e Lezzeno, Lenno e Azzano, Tremezzo e S. Gio-
vanni (pier), Cadenabbia (pier), Bellagio (pier), Menaggio-Hétel Victoria
(pier), Menaggio (pier), Varenna, Gittana, Bellano, Rezzonico, Dervio, Cremia,
Dongo, Musso, Gravedona, Domaso, Colico; tickets (gratis) for the ferry-
boats attached to the steamboat-tickets. Between CaDENABB1A, Or Mkr-
NAGGIO, and BELLAGIO; the steamboat is the cheapest conveyance, espe-
cially for single travellers. Those who embark at intermediate stations
152 Route 23. CERNOBBIO. Lake
between Como and Colico must procure a ticket at the pier; otherwise
they are liable to be charged for the whole distance from Como or Colico.
Tickets are issued on board the steamers for the Como and Milan
railway and for the corresponding diligences, which give the passenger the
advantage, e.g. on arriving at Colico, of having the first claim to seats.
The mails are carried by handsome Saloon Steamers, with good restaurants.
Rowing-boats (barca). First hour 11/2 fr. for each rower, 3 fr. for
two, and 4!/, fr. for three, each additional hour 1 fr. each rower. From
Bellagio to Cadenabbia and back (or vice-versa) 3, with 2 rowers 4 fr. ;
Bellagio-Menaggio and back 4fr.; Bellagio-Varenna and back 4 fr.; Bel-
lagio-Villa Carlotta and back 21/2 fr.; Bellagio, Villa Melzi, Villa Carlotta,
and back 4 fr. — One rower suffices, unless the traveller is pressed for
time; a second may be dismissed with the words ‘basta uno!’ When
travellers are not numerous, the boatmen readily reduce their demands.
In addition to the fare, it is usual to give a ‘bwonamano’ of 1/2fr. or 1 fr.
according to the length of the excursion.
The *Lake of Como (699 ft.), Italian Lago di Como or Il Lario,
the Lacus Larius of the Romans, is extolled by Virgil (Georg. ii.
159), and is in the estimation of many the most beautiful lake in
N. Italy. Length from Como to the N. extremity 30 M., from the
Punta di Bellagio (p. 156) to Lecco 122/, M.; greatest width be-
tween Menaggio and Varenna nearly 21/9 M. ; greatest depth 1929 ft.
Numerous gay villas of the Milanese aristocracy, surrounded by luxuri-
ant gardens and vineyards, are scattered along the banks of the lake. In
the forests above, the brilliant green of the chestnut and walnut contrasts
strongly with the greyish tints of the olive, which to the unaccustomed
eye bears a strong resemblance to the willow. The mountains rise to a
height of 7000 ft. The scenery of the lake, as seen from the deck of the
steamboat, though on a far grander scale, faintly resembles that of the
Rhine, the banks on both sides being perfectly distinguishable by the
traveller. At Bellagio (p. 154) the lake divides into two branches,
called respectively the Lakes of Como (W.) and Lecco (K.). The Adda
enters at the upper extremity and makes its egress near Lecco. The W.
arm has no outlet. — The industrious inhabitants of the banks of the lake
are much occupied in the production and manufacture of silk. Many
young artisans (masons and carpenters chiefly) emigrate from this district
to Cuba and the Spanish-American islands, whence they return to their
native land as soon as they have accumulated enough to enable them to
purchase a small property. — The lake abounds in fish, and trout of
20 lbs. weight are occasionally captured. The ‘Agoni’ are small, but
palatable.
The prospect from the quay at Como is limited, but as soon as
the steamer has passed the first promontory on the E. the beauty
of the lake is disclosed to view.
Lake of Como.
W. BANK.
Borgo Vico, the N.W. suburb
of Como, with the Villas Sa-
EK. Bank.
Borgo S. Agostino, the N.E.
suburb of Como. On the hill
poriti, Salazar, and Mondolfo.
At the N. end of the Borgo rises
the large Villa Raimondi.
Villa Tavernola, beyond the
mouth of the Breggia. Villa
Cima, in a beautiful park.
Cernobbio (Alb. del Centro,
above is the village of Brunato,
commanding a fine view.
Beyond the promontory (with
the Villa Cornaggia) we obtain a
view of Blevio, with its numerous
villas, including those of Mylius,
Ricordi, and Taglioni, with a
of Como.
W. Bank.
‘pens.’ 51/5-71/5 fr.) is a consid-
erable village, with the villas
Belinzaghi, Baroggi, ete.
The Villa d’ Este was opened in
1876 as a *Hotel on a large
scale, connected with which is)
de la Reine |
the former Hotel
d’ Angleterre (‘pension’ 9-10 fr.).
A pleasant park extends up the |
hill. — High above lies the}
church of Rovenna. — Villa
Pizzo.
Villa Passalacqua, with its
numerous windows, resembles a
manufactory.
Near Moltrasio is a picturesque
waterfall.
Urio; then Carate (Alb. Lario),
with the Monte Bisbino (4390 ft. )
in the background. — Villa Co-
lobiano, a green andred building.
The lofty pyramid was erected to |
the memory of Dr. Frank, a pro-
fessor of Pavia (d. 1851), with
money left by him for the pur-
TORNO.
| Prinee Trubetzkoi.
pose. — Laglio, with Villa An-.
tongina, formerly Gaggi.
Villa Galbiati, gaily painted;
then Torrigia.
laurels.
Argegno, at the mouth of the
| Pliniana from
23. Route. 153
K. Bank.
Swiss cottage, formerly the prop-
erty of the famous danseuse,
now belonging to her son-in-law
Villa Pasta
was the residence of the cele-
brated singer (d. 1865).
Villa Taverna, formerly Tanzi.
Torno is surrounded by villas.
Villa Pliniana at the end ‘of
the bay, at the entrance of a
narrow gorge, a gloomy square
edifice, erected in 1570 by Count
Anguissola, one of the four con-
spirators who assassinated Duke
Farnese at Piacenza, is now the
property of the princess Belgio-
joso. It derives its name of
a neighbouring
spring which daily changes its
level, a peculiarity mentioned
Next, Brienno, embosomed in-
works (Epist. iv, 30; Hist. Nat.
ii. 206) are inscribed on the
by Pliny. Extracts from his
walls of the court.
Quarsano and Careno.
Nesso, at the foot of the Piano
| del Tivano (3742 ft.), Nesso So-
pra, and Nesso Sotto; near the
latter in a rocky gorge is a water-
fall of considerable height, fre-
Intelwi Valley, in which lies the | quently dry in summer.
hydropathic establishment of Pa-
raviso (‘pension 7 fr.).
Sala, with the small island of
S. Giovanni, or Comacina, fre-
|
Near Lezzeno is one of the
deepest parts of the lake.
Villa Besana.
S. Giovanni, with the Villa
quently mentioned in the annals | Trotti.
of medieval warfare, now occu-
Villa Poldi, bearing the family
154 Route 23. CADENABBIA. Lake
W. BANK. E. BANK.
pied by a small church. Monte | name of the Gonzagas, contains
Legnone, and Monte Legnoncino
(p. 157) are distinctly visible
towards the N.E. .
Campo lies in a bay formed by
the promontory of Lavedo, which
here projects far into the lake.
On its extremity glitters the Villa |
. * . |
Balbianello, with its colonnade, |
the property of Count Arcomati.
Tremezzo (*Albergo Bazzoni;
Hotel du Lac e Villa Boliviana,
with garden) is situated in the
beautiful district called the T're-
mMeszina.
Villa Carlotta, see below.
Cadenabbia (*Bellevue, with
restaurant; *Belle-Ile; *Britan-
nia, ‘pens.’ from 7 fr.; Pension
§ Restaurant Cadenabbia, 7-8 fr.
a day; Café Lavezzari), halfway
between Como and Colico. In the
vicinity (S.W.), in a garden slop-
ing down to the lake, stands the
celebrated *Villa Carlotta, or
Sommariva, from the Count of
that name to whom it formerly
belonged. In 1843 it came into
the possession of Princess Albert
of Prussia, from whose daughter
Charlotte (d. 1855) it derives its
present appellation. The widower
of the latter, Duke George of
Saxe-Meiningen, is the present
proprietor. Visitors ring at the
entrance to the garden and
ascend the broad flight of steps,
where they are received by the
intendant (1 fr., but more for
a party).
InTERIOR. The MarsBie HALL con-
tains a frieze decorated with cele-
brated **Reliefs by Thorvaldsen, re-
presenting the Triumph of Alexan-
der (for which a sum of nearly
375,000 fr. was once paid by Count
Sommariva); also several statues
by Canova (Cupidand Psyche, Magda-
the mausoleum of the last of the
race, in the form of a round Ro-
manesque temple. Fine view.
Villa Melzi, see below.
Bellagio. — *“Granp Héret Bet-
LAGIO, formerly Villa Frizzont, and
“GRANDE BRETAGNE, both well fitted
up, and the property of companies;
*GENAZZINI; all three beautifully
situated on the lake; R. 3 fr. and
upwards, B. 1!/2, D. 5 (at Genazzini’s
incl. wine), A. 1, L. 1, omnibus 1 fr. ;
‘pension’ according to agreement,
even for a few days, 10-12 fr., at
Genazzini’s 7-11 fr.; *Granp HOTEL
& PENSION VILLA SERBELLONI, on the
hill in the beautiful park mentioned
at p. 155, commanding a fine view,
a dépendance of the Grande Bretagne,
with the same charges, but inferior
in comfort. — Of less pretension:
*HOTEL DE FLORENCE, D.4 fr. ; *H6OTEL
ET PENSION SUISSE; ALBERGO DEL
VAPORE, all on the lake. — Rowing
Boats, see p. 152.
Bellagio (708 ft. ), a small town
with 3000 inhab., atthe W. base
of the promontory which sep-
arates the two arms of the lake,
is perhaps the most delightful
point among the lakes of Upper
Italy. About 1/ M. to the 8.
of the village is the *Villa Melzi,
erected by Albertolli in 1810-15,
for Count Melzi d Erile, who was
vice-president of the Italian Re-
public in 1802, and was made
Duke of Lodi by Napoleon in
1807. It now belongs to his
of Como.
W. BANK.
lene, Palamedes, Venus); Paris by
Fontana; bust of Count Sommariva;
Mars and Venus, by Acquisti; Cupid
giving water to pigeons, by Bien-
aimé, etc. The BriitiiarD Room
contains casts, and a small frieze
in marble on the chimney - piece
representing a Bacchanalian pro-
cession, said to be an early work
of Thorvaldsen. — In the GARDEN
SaLoon several modern pictures (Ha-
yez, Romeo and Juliet; Lordon,
Athalie), and a marble relief of Na-
poleon when consul, by Lazzarini.
The *GARDEN, which stretches to
the S. to Tremezzo, and to the N.
towards the Hotel de Bellevue, con-
tains the most luxuriant vegetation;
on the S. side of the Villa is a
splendid magnolia; pleasant view
towards Bellagio (attendant 1/2 fr.).
Behind the ‘Milan’ hotel rises
Il Sasso S. Martino, a rock on
which stands the Madonna di S.
Martino, a small church, com-
manding a beautiful view; ascent
11/ hr., path destroyed by tor-
rents at places.
The Monte Cotaiga or Crocione, a
more lofty mountain to the W.,
commands a striking view of the
Monte Rosa chain, the Bernese Alps
and Mont Blanc, the lakes and the
plain of Lombardy (a fatiguing as-
cent of 6-7 hrs.; guide 5 fr.; in order
to avoid the heat the traveller should
start at 2 or 3 a.m.).
BELLAGIO.
'belvedere of the Villa Belmonte,
23. Route. 155
K. BANK.
grandson the Duca di Melzi(open
on Thursdays and Sundays, cards
of admission 1 fr. ).
InTERIOR. In the vestibule, co-
pies of ancient busts in marble by
Canova; bust of the present pro-
prietor by Vela; other portrait-busts ;
statue of the son of the duca, by
Pessina; David, by Fraccaroli; Inno-
cence, by Pandiani, etc. The walls
of the following rooms are embellish-
ed with appropriate frescoes. In the
2nd Room a bust of Michael Angelo
by Canova. 3rd R.: Bust of Mi-
chael Angelo by himself (?); Ma-
donna by Bern. Luini. Ath R.: Co-
molli, Eugene Beauharnais, vice-
roy of Italy; *“Appiani, Napoleon I.
as president of the Italian Republic.
5th R.: Ceiling-frescoes by Bossi.
representing Parnassus; statuettes
by Marchesi; chimney-piece by Thor-
valdsen with medallion-portraits of
celebrated Italians. 5th R. (Flower-
Room): Canova, Bacchante.
The *GarRDEN (attendant 1/2 fr.)
exhibits all the luxuriance and fra-
grance of southern vegetation (magni-
ficent magnolias, camellias, cedars,
Chinese pines, gigantic aloes, etc.).
The CHAPEL contains monuments
in marble to the two former pro-
prietors, and to the mother of the
present duke, by Nessi. In another
part of the garden, Dante and Bea-
trice, by Comolli; colossal busts of
Madame Letitia, mother of Napo-
leon I., and the empress Josephine,
by Canova.
Higher up stands the *Villa
Serbelloni (now Hotel and Pen-
sion), the park of which com-
mands an exquisite Virw, es-
pecially of the Lake of Lecco,
probably the finest on the lake
(admission for those not residing
in the hotel ‘/2 fr.). The path
ascends by the Hotel Genazzini
and reaches the top in 230 min-
utes. Charming glimpses of Va-
renna, Villa Balbianello, Carlot-
ta, etc. Beautiful flowers and
plants in the garden of the hotel,
and a grove of palm-trees. — The
156 Route 23.
W. Bank.
VARENNA. Lake
KE. Bank.
the property of an Englishman,
commands another fine view (ad-
mission 1/, fr.). — A little to
the S., in the direction of the
Lake of Lecco, is the Villa Giu-
lia, the property of Count Blome
(visitors admitted). — Excursion
to the Monte S. Primo, an ascent
of 4 hrs., see p. 151.
Here, at the Punta di Bellagio, the two arms of the lake, the
Lago di Como and the Lago di Lecco (p. 159), unite.
Menaggio (*Grand Hotel Vit-
toria, beautifully situated, R.
3 fr., pleasant Italian hotel, with
a special steamboat station; Co-
ronda) possesses an extensive silk
manufactory, to which visitors
are admitted. On the lake, S.
of the village, is the handsome
Villa Mylius. A road leads hence
to Porlezza on the Lake of Luga-
no(9M.; omnibus daily, 14 a.m.,
see p. 164).
On an eminence (‘/y hr.),
near the church of Loveno (*Inn),
stands the Villa Vigoni, former-
ly Mylius, commanding a mag-
nificent *Virw of Bellagio, Me-
nagegio, and of the three arms of
the lake.
The villa contains some admirable
works in marble by modern Italian
sculptors, reliefs by Thorvaldsen (Ne-
mesis) and Marchesi; in the garden-
saloon a *Group by Argenti, the pro-
prietress with her children.
The steamer next passes a
wild, yellowish-brown cliff, J
Sasso Rancio (‘the orange-rock’ ),
which is traversed by a danger-
ous footpath. This route was un-
dertaken in 1799 by the Rus-
sians under General Bellegarde,
on which occasion many lives
were lost.
S. Abbondio is the next village.
Rezzonico with Villa Litta, and
Varenna (*Albergo Reale ; Hé-
tel Marcioni), is charmingly sit-
uated on a promontory, sur-
rounded by gardens (Isimbardi,
Lelia, Venini), at the mouth of
the Val d’Esino, commanded by
the lofty ruins of the Torre di
Vezio, with a small village and a
beautiful view. In the vicinity,
especially towarls the N., some
remarkable galleries have been
hewn in the rock for the passage
of the Stelvio road. Most of the
marble quarried in the neigh-
bourhood is cut and polished in
the town.
About 3/, M. to the 8S. of Va-
renna the Fiume Latte (‘milk
brook’, from its colour) is preci-
pitated in several leaps from a
height of 1000 ft., forming an
imposing cascade in spring, but
generally dried up at other sea-
sons.
Gittana is the station for the
hydropathic establishment of
Regoledo, situated 500 ft. above
the lake.
Bellano (Roma) lies at the
base of Monte Grigna (7254 ft. ),
of Como.
W. Bank.
the picturesque ruins of a fort-
ress of the 13th century.
Cremia with the handsome
church of 8. Michele (altar-piece
*St. Michael, by Paolo Vero-
nese); then Pianello.
On rocks rising precipitously
above Musso are situated the
ruins of three castles, Rocca di
Musso, the residence of Giov.
Giac. de’ Medici in 1525-31,
‘the eastellan of Musso’, who from
this castle ruled over the entire
Lake of Como. Then Dongo, with
a monastery. Above it, on the
height to the right, lies Garzeno, |
whence a somewhat neglected
path crosses the Passo di 8S. Jorio
to (9 hrs.) Bellinzona.
Gravedona (Hotel del Sasso)
is picturesquely situated at the
mouth of a gorge (1600 inhab.).
The handsome Palazzo del Pero
with four towers, at the upper
end, was built by the Milanese
Cardinal Gallio. Adjoining the
venerable church of S. Vincenzo
rises the Baptisterium, an inter-
esting building of the 12th cent.,
containing two Christian inscrip-
tions of the 5th century.
Domaso, charmingly situated,
possesses several handsome vil-
las, particularly the Villa Calde-
rara and Villa Velazquez.
COLICO.
23. Route. 157
| K. BANK.
|at the mouth of the Val Sassina,
which is traversed by a bridle-
path to Taceno (thence road to
Lecco via Introbbio). The Pio-
verna forms a waterfall (197 ft.)
before reaching the lake (Orrido
di Bellano; 50c.). A monument
\to Tom. Grossi, the poet, who
| was born at Bellano in 1790 (d.
1853), by Tandardini, was un-
‘veiled here in 1876.
Dervio, at the mouth of the
Varrone, is situated at the base
of the abrupt Monte Legnone
(8566 ft.) and its spur Monte
Legnoncino (4954 ft. ).
Corenno, Dorio, and Ogliasea
are the following villages.
Colico (Angelo; Isola Bella;
both in the Italian style; Rist; Re-
staurant dela Poste),comp. p. 39.
The Monte Legnone, mentioned
above, may be ascended hence
without difficulty in 7-8 hrs.
From Couico To CHIAVENNA Swiss diligence (also an omnibus, 2!/2 fr.)
twice daily in 3 hrs.; thence daily (twice in summer) over the Spliigen
to Corre (R. 5) in 13!/2 brs.
—
FO Ee
158 Route 23. VAL TELLINA.
From Corico To Bormio, 67 M. Diligence in summer (June to Sept.)
daily in 16!/2 hrs.; fares 17 fr. 20c. (to Sondrio thrice, to Tirano twice
daily). Ea«tra-Post, with two horses, 102 fr. The road ascends the Val
Tellina, which belonged to the Grisons down to 1797, then to Austria,
and since 1859 has been united to Italy. The broad valley is watered by
the Adda, the inundations of which often cause considerable damage, and
make the lower part of the valley marshy and unhealthy. — A little way
from Colico the Spliigen road (p. 40) joins ours on the left. 40!/2 M.
Morbegno (850 ft.; Regina d’Inghilterra or Posta) is noted for its silk-cul-
ture. About 1!/2M. beyond Morbegno the road crosses the Adda, and the
Val Masino opens on the left. The road again crosses and recrosses the
river, and afterwards follows the right bank. Ona rocky eminence farther
on, to the W., rises the church of Sassella, erected on galleries.
26!/2 M. Sondrio (1140 ft.; *Posta; Maddalena), the capital of the Val
Tellina, is situated on the Malero, an impetuous torrent, at the mouth
of the picturesque Val Malenco. Peoeasie
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Lago Maggiore. LUINO. 26. Route. 169
in a large ‘piazza’ and public garden. The pilgrimage-church of
*Madonna del Sasso (1168 ft.), on a wooded eminence above the
town, commands a remarkably fine view. The busy market held at
Locarno every alternate Thursday affords the visitor an opportunity
of observing a variety of costumes of the peasantry of the neigh-
bourhood. Great national festival on 8th Sept., the Nativity of
the Virgin.
The W. bank of the lake, to the S. of Locarno, is studded
with country-houses, villages, and campanili. On the bank of
the lake runs the new carriage-road from Locarno to Pallanza;. in
the angle lies Ascona with its castle and seminary; higher up, on
the slope, Ronco. Passing two small islands, we next reach Bris-
sago (*Albergo Antico; Alb. Brissago), a delightful spot, with
picturesque white houses conspicuous from a great distance, and an
avenue of cypresses leading to the church. The slopes above the
village are covered with fig-trees, olives, and pomegranates, and
even the myrtle flourishes in the open air. — On the E. bank,
opposite, is situated Pino (railway to Bellinzona, see p. 36), ona
grassy slope.
S. Agata and Canobbio (Hotel Canobbio, R. 11/5-3, ‘pens.’ 6 fr. ;
Albergo delle Alpi, moderate; Villa Badia, 11/. M. from Canobbio,
‘pens’, 0-7 fr.) are on Italian territory. The latter is one of the
vldest and most prosperous villages (2600 inhab.) on the lake,
situated on a plateau at the entrance of the Val Canobbino, and
overshadowed by richly-wooded mountains. In the church Della
Pieta, the dome of which is ascribed to Bramante, is a Crucifixion
by Gaud. Ferrari.
Pleasant walk of 1/2 hr. up the beautiful Val Canobbino to the hydro-
pathic establishment of La Salute, and thence to the (20 min.) Orrido, a
wild rocky scene with a bridge and in spring a waterfall.
The boat now steers for the EK. bank, and touches at Maccagno
(railway to Bellinzona, see p. 36), whence a walk of 2hrs. may be
taken to the loftily-situated Lago Delio (Inn; extensive view). —
Farther on, Casneda, in a wooded ravine; then —
Luino (Hotel du Simplon, R. 2, L. & A. 1fr.; Posta; Vittoria),
with the Palazzo Crivelli surrounded by pines, the station for
Lugano (p. 164; railway to Bellinzona, p. 36), and a favourite
summer-resort on account of the beauty of its environs. The Piazza
Garibaldi is adorned with a statue of that hero. — About 1/) M.
to the 8., at the mouth of the Margorabbia, lies Germignaga, with
the large silk-spinning (filanda) and silk-winding (filatoja) factories
of Cesare Bozotti and Co. of Milan (visitors admitted by the written
permission of the proprietor).
On the W. bank rise two grotesque-looking castles (Castelli di
Cannero), half in ruins, the property of Count Borromeo. In the
15th cent. they harboured the five brothers Mazzarda, notorious
brigands, the terror of the district. — Cannero is beautifully situated
in the midst of vineyards and olive-groves, which extend far up
170 Route 26. PALLANZA. Lago Maggiore.
the slopes of the mountain. The W. bank is clothed with the
richest vegetation, and studded with innumerable white houses
and a succession of picturesque villages.
The small villages of Oggebbio and Ghiffa (Hotel Ghiffa) on the
W. bank, and Porto Valtravaglia on the E., are only touched at
by some of the steamers. In a wooded bay beyond the last lies
Calde, with the ancient tower of the Castello di Calde on an
eminence. Then, to the E., —
Laveno (*Posta; Moro; Stella), a village of some importance,
beautifully situated in a bay at the mouth of the Boesio, formerly
a strongly fortified harbour for the Austrian gunboats (to Varese
see p. 166). As carriages are not always obtainable here, it is
advisable to order them at Varese the day before. Fort Garibaldi,
11/, M. from Laveno, commands a charming view of the lake and
the mountains beyond. — Behind Laveno rises II Sasso del Ferro
(5918 ft.), the most beautiful mountain on the lake, commanding
a magnificent view of the lake, the plain as far as Milan, and the
Monte Rosa chain. The five-peaked summit of Monte Rosa is also
visible from this part of the lake.
As the boat approaches Intra, the Villa Prina becomes visible.
The valley, which here opens to the W., suddenly discloses a strik-
ingly picturesque view of the N. neighbours of Monte Rosa: first
the Strahlhorn, then the Mischabel and Simplon. They are lost
to view as the steamboat turns the point between Intra and Pal-
lanza, but soon re-appear and remain visible until Isola Bella is
reached. From the island itself they are hidden by the mountains
of the valley of the Tosa.
Intra (Hétel-Pens. Intra, with café-restaurant; Vitello e Leon
d’Oro; Agnello), a flourishing town (5000inh.) with manufactories
chiefly belonging to Swiss proprietors, is situated on alluvial soil,
between two mountain-streams, the 8. Giovanni and 8. Bernardino.
The garden of the *Villa Franzosini, 1!/) M. to the N., contains
a magnificent magnolia, 65 ft. in height. Attractive ascent of
11/, hr. from Intra to Premeno, which commands a fine Alpine view.
On the promontory of S. Remigio, which may be ascended
from Pallanza or Intra in 1/y hr., stands a church on the site of an
ancient Roman temple of Venus. Adjacent is the Villa 8. Remigio,
the property of Mrs. Brown (visitors kindly admitted; splendid
view from the balcony, embracing the whole lake and extending
to the Monte Rosa). The little Zsola S. Giovanni, one of the Borro-
mean group, with its chapel, house, and gardens, is the property
of Count Borromeo.
Pallanza. — Hotels. “Granp Héret Patianza, a large house, beauti-
fully situated, R. from 3, B. 11/2, D. 5, L. and A. 11/2 fr.; omn. from the
quay; warm bath 2!/2, lake bath 4!/2 fr.; ‘pension’ in winter from 61/2, in
summer 7-10!/2 fr., *Hor. GARONI, in a commanding situation on the Punta
di Castagnola, ‘pens.’ 8-12 fr. ; Posta, well spoken of; Mizano ; S. GoTTARDO.
Lago Maggiore. BORROMEAN ISLANDS. 26. Route. 171
Boat with one rower to the Isola Madre and back 2!/2, with two 4!/s fr.,
to Isola Bella and back 31/2 or 6; to both islands and back 4 or 7; to
Stresa and back 3!/2 or 6; to Laveno and back 3!/2 or 7, etc. The traveller
should ask to see the tariff before embarking. The hotels also possess
boats, for which the charges are similar.
Diligence to Domo d’Ossola in 5 hrs., twice daily, starting on the
arrival of the steamer from Arona.
English Church Service in the Grand Hétel Pallanza.
Pallanza, a thriving little town with 3900 inhab., delightfully
situated opposite the Borromean Islands, commands a beautiful
view of them, the lake, and the Alps to the N. As the most
sheltered and warmest spot on the Lago Maggiore, it enjoys a
repute as a winter-resort, especially as an intermediate stage be-
tween the Riviera and more northerly climes. The banks of the lake
are skirted by pleasant promenades. The nursery gardens of Ro-
velli, Cerutti, and others deserve a visit (fee 1/.-1 fr.). Pleasant walk
by the new road round the Monte Rosso, ascending by the brook
S. Bernardino and past the Madonna della Campagna and the vil-
lage of Trobaso to the old Roman bridge of Santino (11/9 hr.).
The lake here forms an extensive bay, 41/5 M. long and 21/4 M.
wide, running in a N.W. direction, at the N. extremity of which
is the influx of the impetuous Tosa (Toce). On its N.E. bank
lies Suna, on the 8.W. Feriolo, where the Simplon route (p. 27)
quits the lake; the steamboat does not always touch at these two
stations. — Then Baveno (*Grand Hotel Bellevue, R. 4, B. 11 /o,
D. 4t/o, L. & A. 1 fr.; *Beaurivage, both with gardens; Hoétel-
Pension Suisse), a village with 1900 inhabitants. The handsome
Villa Clara (proprietor Mr. Henfrey) was occupied by Queen
Victoria for some weeks in the spring of 1879. This is the usual
starting-point of travellers from the Simplon for a visit to the —
*Borromean Islands. The steamers touch only at the most S.
of these, the Isola Bella, which with the Isola Madre is the property
of the Borromeo family. Between these lies (W.) the Isola dei
Pescatori, or Superiore, the property of the fishermen who inhabit
it; to the N. is the Isola S. Giovanni mentioned above.
In the 17th cent. Count Vitalio Borromeo (d. 1690) erected a
chateau on “Isola Bella and converted the barren rock into beauti-
ful gardens, rising on ten terraces 100 ft. above the lake, and
stocked with lemon-trees , cedars, magnolias, cypresses, orange-
trees, laurels, magnificent oleanders, and other luxuriant products
of the south. The view is very beautiful (evening-light most fa-
vourable). Shell-grottoes, fountains(dry), mosaics, and statues meet
the eye in profusion, but in questionable taste. The Chateau, which
is quite disproportionate to the size of the island, is richly deco-
rated, and contains a collection of pictures more numerous than
valuable. The N. wing is in ruins. The view through the arches
of the long galleries under the chateau is very striking. A ser-
vant hurries visitors through the apartments (fee 1/,-1fr. for
each pers., a party in proportion), and consigns them to a gardener,
vi |
Hil I
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Hilt
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172 Route 26. STRESA.
Lago Maggiore.
who shows the garden with equal dispatch for a similar fee. Ad-
joining the chateau is the *Hétel du Dauphin, or Delfino (R. 2 fr.
and upwards, D. 4, ‘pension’ 8-9fr.). ‘Pension’ may also be ob-
tained at the Café-Restaurant dell’ Isola Bella. Excursion of 2 hrs.
by boat to the other islands with two rowers, 5 fr.
The *Isola Madre on its S. side resembles the Isola Bella,
and is laid out in seven terraces with lemon and orange-trellises ;
on the upper terrace is an uninhabited ‘Palazzo’ (beautiful view).
On the N. side, there are charming walks in the English style, with
most luxuriant vegetation (fee 1fr.). — The Isola dei Pescatori
is entirely occupied by a small fishing-village, the single open
space being just sufficient for drying the nets.
The scenery around the Borromean Islands rivals that of the Lake of
Como in grandeur, and perhaps surpasses it in softness of character. Monte
Rosa is not visible; the snow-mountains to the N.W. are the glaciers and
peaks of the Simplon; of the nearer mountains the most conspicuous are
the white granite-rocks near Baveno (p. 29). The traveller coming from
the N. cannot fail to be struck with the loveliness of these banks, studded
with innumerable habitations, and clothed with southern vegetation (chest-
nuts, mulberries, vines, figs, olives); the extensive lake with its deep blue
waters and beautiful girdle of snowy mountains combining the stern
grandeur of the High Alps with the charms of a southern clime. Rousseau
at one time intended to make the Borromean Islands the scene of his
‘Nouvelle Heloise’, but considered them too artificial for his romance, in
which human nature is pourtrayed with such a masterly hand.
The steamboat now sieers S. to —
Stresa. — Hotels: *H6reL pes ILEs Borromé&gs, with beautiful garden
and diligence-office, 1/2 M. from the landing-place, R. from 3, B. 1/2,
L. and A. 2, D. 5fr., ‘pension’ (room 2-3 fr. extra) in summer 7!/9-9!/2, in
winter 6-7 fr.; *HéreL pe Mizan, with garden, near the steamboat-pier,
R. 21/2, D. 41/2, L. and A. 11/2, ‘pension’ 6-7 fr. — ALBERGO REALE BOLoN-
GARO, Italian, well spoken of; Iratra, R. and L, 2-3, B.1, D.4, ‘pens.’ 6-7 fr.
Boat (barca) with one rower 2fr. for the first hour, and 50c. for each
additional 1/2 hr. Comp. p. 168.
Carriage. To Domo d'Ossola with one horse 15-20fr., with two horses
30-35fr.; to Arona with one horse 6fr.; carriages for the Simplon route
to Brieg may also be procured. — D1LiGENCE over the Simplon to Brieg
daily (Messagerie in 14, Courriére in 141/zhrs.); fare 23 fr. 15, coupé 30 fr. 80 c.
Stresa (1200 inhab.) is situated on the coast, opposite the Isola
sella. The handsome Rosminian Monastery halfway up the moun-
tain is now a college. Beautiful cypresses in the Churchyard. Among
the finest villas in the environs are the Villa Bolongaro, the pro-
perty of the Duchess of Genoa, by the church, and the Villas Ca-
sanova, Imperatori, Collegno, and Durazzo: — Ascent of Monte
Motterone, see p. 173.
As the boat steers its course along the W. bank, the con-
struction of the high-road, in many places supported by piers of
masonry, attracts attention owing to the difficulties which had to be
overcome. The banks gradually become flatter, and Monte Rosa makes
its appearance in the W. The next place on the W. bank is —
Belgirate (*Grand Hotel and Pension Belgirate), with 700 in-
hab., surrounded by the villas Fontana, Principessa Matilda,
Pallavicini, and others. — Then follow Lesa and Meina (Albergo
MONTE MOTTERONE. 27. Route. 173
Zanetta), and, on the E. bank, Angera, where the boat touches once
a day only. The handsome chateau above the village belongs to Count
Borromeo. The steamer finally stops at the station beyond Arona.
Arona, and thence to Milan, see p. 167; to Genoa, see R. 12;
to Novara and Turin, see p. 79 and R. 11.
27. From Stresa to Varallo.
Monte Motterone. Lake of Orta.
Three days suffice for a visit to this district, which, though seldom
visited, is one of the most beautiful of the S. Alps. Travellers from the
Simplon (R. 3) should, after visiting the Borromean Islands, begin this
excursion at STrREesA (p. 172) and terminate it at Arona. From Stresa or
Isola Bella by the Motterone to Orta 9, from Orta (or rather from Pella) to
Varallo 4!/2 hrs. walking; from Varallo to Arona 5, to Novara 6 hrs. drive.
A GuIDE (to the summit of Monte Motterone 5-6, to Orta 8 fr.; donkey
and attendant to Orta 12 fr. and fee) can hardly be dispensed with. Mules
at Orta at high charges. — The ascent of the Motterone is fatiguing, as
the descent must be made the same day, but presents no difficulty and
is very attractive.
The Lago Maggiore is separated from the Lake of Orta by a long
mountain ridge, which is crossed by a footpath from Stresa (p. 172)
in 5-6 hrs. via Gignese, Coiro, and Armeno (where the high-road is
reached) to Orta (see below). — Farther to the N. this mountain
culminates in the grassy *Monte Motterone (4891 ft.), Monterone,
or Margozzolo. The path from Stresa (guide desirable, see above)
ascends opposite the Isola Bella, at first through a chestnut grove ;
then, above the village of Someraro, over fern-clad and grassy
slopes, passing several chalets shaded by lofty trees, and leading to
the W. to a small church, where it turns to the right. Thence to
the summit 1 hr. more.
The extensive prospect commanded by the summit embraces the entire
amphitheatre of mountains from Monte Rosa to the Ortler in the Tyrol.
(A panorama may be bought at Stresa or Orta for 31/2 fr.). To the right
of Monte Rosa appear the snow-mountains of Monte Moro, Pizzo di Bot-
tarello, Simplon, Monte Leone, Gries, and St. Gotthard; farther E. the
conical Stella above Chiavenna, and the long, imposing ice-range of the
Bernina, which separates the Val Bregaglia from the Val Tellina. At the
spectator’s feet lie seven different lakes, the Lake of Orta, Lago di Mer-
gozz0, Lago Maggiore, Lago di Monate, Lago di Comabbio, Lago di Bian-
drone, and Lago di Varese; farther to the right stretch the extensive
plains of Lombardy and Piedmont, in the centre of which rises the lofty
cathedral of Milan. The Ticino and the Sesia meander like silver threads
through the plains, and by a singular optical delusion frequently appear
to traverse a lofty table-land. The simultaneous view of the Isola Madre
in Lago Maggiore and the Isola S. Giulio in the Lake of Orta has a re-
markably picturesque effect. — The mountain itself consists of a number
of barren summits, studded with occasional chalets, shaded by trees. At
its base it is encircled by chestnut-trees, and the foliage and luxuriant
vegetation of the landscape far and wide impart a peculiar charm to the
picture.
In descending from Monte Motterone to Orta we soon reach a
broad bridle-path, which (guide now unnecessary) leads in 21/, hrs.
to Armeno (Inn), situated on the high-road. We now follow the
road to (2M.) Miasino, and (11/,M.) to Ronchetti’s Pension (Posta),
174 Route 27. ORTA. From Stresa
near which a path ascends to the right in 10 min. to the Sacro Monte
(see below), and (8/4 M:) Orta.
Orta (1220 ft.; *Hotel S. Giulio, in the market-place and on the
lake, R. & A. 34/g, D. 41/fr.; Leon d’Oro, also on the lake; Due
Spade, at the back of the piazza, on the road to the Sacro Monte ;
one-horse carr. to Gravellona 8fr.), a small town, with narrow
streets paved with marble slabs, and a handsome villa of the Mar-
quis Natta of Novara (at the S. entrance), is most picturesquely
situated on a promontory extending into the Lake of Orta at the
base of a precipitous cliff. On the lake (11/4 M. in breadth, 71/) M.
in length), which of late has been officially called Lago Cusio, after
its supposed ancient name, asteamer plies four times daily, touching
to the S. of Orta, at the stations of Pascolo, Isola S. Giulio, and
Buccione (whence an omnibus runs to the Gozzano railway-station,
p. 79), and on the N. proceeding by Pella (see below), Pettenasco,
Ronco, and Oira to Omegna at the N. end of the lake. From Buc-
cione to Omegna in 11/y hr., fare 1 fr. 50c. or 4 fr.
Above Orta rises the Sacro Monte (ascent from the principal piazza, or
through the garden of the Villa Natta, on which route a fee is expected for
the opening of the upper gate), a beautifully wooded eminence, laid out
as a park, on which 20 chapels were erected in the 16th cent. in honour
of S. Francis of Assisi, each containing a scene from the life of the saint.
The life-size figures are composed of terracotta, highly coloured, with a
background al fresco; as a whole, though destitute of artistic worth, the
representations are spirited and effective. The best groups are in the
13th, 16th, and 20th chapels, the last representing the canonization of the
saint and the assembly of cardinals. The *Zower on the summit of the
hill commands an admirable panorama; the snowy peak of Monte Rosa rises
to the W. above the lower intervening mountains. The ‘Hremita del Monte’
expects a fee of 3/,-1 fr., for showing the above-mentioned three chapels.
Opposite Orta rises the rocky island of 8. Giulio, covered with
trees and groups of houses (boat there and back 4 fr.; also steamboat-
station). The Church, founded by St. Julius, who came from
Greece in 379 to convert the inhabitants of this district to Christian-
ity, has been frequently restored; it contains several good reliefs,
some ancient frescoes, a handsome pulpit in the Romanesque style,
and in the sacristy a Madonna by Gaudenzio Ferrari.
On the W. bank of the lake, opposite the island, the white
houses of the village of Pella (small Café) peep from the midst of
vineyards and groves of chestnut and walnut-trees. Boat from Orta
to Pella 1fr. with one rower; steamboat, see above).
A path towards the S. winds upwards from Pella, through a grove of
chestnut and fruit trees, in 1!/2 hr. to the Madonna del Sasso, the pictur-
esque church of the village of Boletto. An open space by the church, on
the brink of a precipice several hundred feet above the lake, commands
a fine prospect.
From Pella over the Colma to Varallo 5 hrs. (donkey 7, or, to
the Colma only, 31/,fr.; guide unnecessary). A steep path ascends
the hillto the W., traversing luxuriant gardens (vines, figs, pump-
kins, and fruit-trees); after 12 min. we avoid the ascent to the
right. In 4 hr. (from Pella) we reach Arola, at a small chapel
i
to Varallo. VARALLO. 27. Route. 175
beyond which we must again avoid the ascent to the right; the path
pursues a straight direction and soon descends. The Pellino, a moun-
tain-torrent , descending from the Colma, forms (5 min.) a pictur-
esque waterfall. Beautiful retrospective views of the lake. The path
now ascends through a shady wood, between disintegrated blocks
of granite which crumble beneath the touch, to the Col di Colma
(21/5 hrs. from Pella), a ridge connecting Monte Pizzigone with
Monte Ginistrella. The prospect of the Alps is beautiful, embrac-
ing Monte Rosa, the lakes of Orta and Varese, and the plain of
Lombardy. The whole route is attractive. In descending on the
W. side (to the right) the traveller overlooks the fruitful Val Sesia,
with its numerous villages. The path, again traversing groves of
chestnut and walnut-trees, carpeted with turf and wild-flowers,
now leads through the Val Duggia to (1 hr.) Civiasco and (4 hr.) —
Varallo (1515 ft.; Posta, well spoken of ; Italia; *Croce Bianca,
moderate; Falcone Nero), the principal village (3200 inhab.) in
the valley of the Sesia, a stream rising on the Monte Rosa, and
one of the chief tributaries of the Po, into which it flows beyond
Casale(p. 77), but frequently dry insummer. A bridge with three
arches crosses the river. The old town and the Sacro Monte are very
picturesque when seen through the arches of the bridge. — The
collegiate church contains an altar-piece representing the Nuptials
of St. Catharine by Gaudenzio Ferrari, who was born here in 1484
(d. 1549). The churches of *S. Maria delle Grazie (in the choir),
S. Maria di Loreto, and 8. Marco also contain frescoes by this master
(those in the last being of his earlier period).
The *Sacro Monte, the object of numerous pilgrimages, rises in the
immediate vicinity of the town. It is attained in !/, hr. by a path shaded
by beautiful trees, but the enjoyment is somewhat marred by the im-
portunities of beggars. The summit, surmounted by a chapel and crucifix,
commands a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains towering one
above another. Besides the church there are a great number of CHAPELS
or Oratories on the summit and slopes of the Sacro Monte, many of them
buried among the trees, containing scenes from the life of the Saviour, in
terracotta, with life-size figures arranged in groups. Each chapel is devoted
to a different subject; the 1st to the Fall, the 2nd to the Annunciation,
and so on to the 46th, containing the Entombment of the Virgin. Some
of the frescoes by Pellegrino Tibaldi and Gaudenzio Ferrari (Chapel of the
Magi, *Chapel of the Crucifixion) are worthy of inspection. This ‘Nuova
Gerusalemme nel Sacro Monte di Varallo’ was founded by Bernardino
Caloto, a Milanese nobleman, with the sanction of Pope Innocent VIII.
lt did not become a pilgrim-resort until after the visits of Card. Borromeo
(p. 167) in 1578 and 1584, from which period most of the chapels date.
Varallo is admirably adapted as headquarters for excursions
to the neighbouring valleys, which are very attractive and easily
accessible (comp. Baedeker’s Switzerland).
A carriage-road (omnibus twice daily) descends the picturesque
valley of the Sesia to (6 M.) Borgo Sesia, (71/g M.) Romagnano
(Posta); then, quitting the Val Sesia, by Sizzano, Fara, and Briona
to Novara(p. 77). Varallo is connected with Vercelli (p. 77) by a
tramway-line through Val Sesia.
176
28. From Milan to Voghera (Genoa) by Pavia.
Certosa di Pavia.
Rartway from Milan to Genoa vid Pavia and Voghera, 92 M., in
AV /,-71/2 hrs. (fares 17 fr. 30, 12 fr. 15, 8 fr. 75 c.; express 20 fr. 15, 13 fr.
50 ¢.); from Milan to Pavia, 221/2 M., in 3/4-11/, hr. (fares 4 fr. 10% 2" fr:
85, 2 fr. 5 c.; express 4 fr. 55, 3 fr. 15 c.). — Those who desire to visit
both the Certosa and Pavia from Milan are recommended to take a return-
ticket to Pavia, alight at the station Certosa di Pavia, walk to the ('/4 hr.)
Certosa, return to the Certosa station, proceed thence to Pavia (new
ticket necessary, 90 or 60c.), inspect the town (in about 3 brs.), and
return direct to Milan (comp. Introd., p. xviii).
SrramM-TRaMWway from Milan to Pavia (vid Binasco) in 21/2 hrs. (fares
Q1/y or 1/2 fr.), starting every 3 hrs. from the Porta Ludovica and Porta
Ticinese (Pl. C, D, 8), at Padua from the Piazza Petrarca and Porta di
Milano. The tramway-station for visitors to the Certosa is Torre del
Mangano (Ristoratore Milano, well spoken of), on the Naviglio di Pavia,
about 1 M. from the monastery (omnibus).
Milan, see p. 127. The train to Pavia at first follows the Pia-
cenza line, and then diverges to the S.W. 41/9 M. Rogoredo. Be-
yond Rogoredo the Cistercian church of Chiaravalle is seen on the
right, ahandsome edifice of the 13thcent., witha tower surmounted.
by a dome. The country is flat; underwood and rice-fields are
traversed alternately. — 91/) M. Locate; 12/9 M. Villamaggiore.
On the road, to the W. of the line, lies Binasco, a small town with
an ancient castle, in which, on 13th Sept., 1418, the jealous and tyrannical
Duke Fil. Maria Visconti caused his noble and innocent wife Beatrice
di Tenda (p. 118) to be executed.
171/, M. Guinzano, or Stazione della Certosa (Osteria della
Stazione, tolerable), whence we follow the path planted with
willows, and skirt the long garden-wall of the monastery towards
the right (walk of 1/4 hr.). A visit to the Certosa occupies 11/9 hr.
(fee of 1 fr. to the ‘sagrestano’).
The *Certosa di Pavia, or Carthusian monastery, the splendid
memorial of the Milan dynasties, founded in 1396 by Gian Galeazzo
Visconti (p. 126), and suppressed under Emperor Joseph II., was
restored to its original destination in 1844 and presented to the
Carthusians. Since the recent suppression of the Italian monasteries
it has been maintained as a ‘National Monument’. A vestibule,
embellished with sadly-damaged frescoes by Bern. Luini (SS.
Sebastian and Christopher), leads to a large inner court, at the
farther end of which rises the celebrated facade of the church.
The **FacapE, begun in 1473 by Ambrogio Borgognone, is
perhaps the most masterly creation of its kind of the 15th century.
Its design, independent of the antique orders of architecture, is in
the graduated Lombard-Romanesque style of chureh-fronts, with
projecting pillars and transverse arcades, while within these well-
defined structural features it embraces a wonderful and judiciously
distributed wealth of ornament (Burckhardt). Thirty of the most
distinguished Lombard masters from the 15th to the 17th cent.
have had a share in its embellishment, the most eminent of whom
are: Ant. Amadeo and Andr. Fusina (15th cent.); Giacomo della
CERTOSA DI PAVIA. 28, Route. 177
Porta and Agostino Busti, surnamed Jl Bambaja, to whom the
principal portal is ascribed), and Cristofano Solari, surnamed
It Gobbo. The plinth is adorned with medallions of Roman empe-
rors, above which are reliefs representing Biblical history and
scenes from the life of Gian Galeazzo. Below the beautiful win-
dows is a row of angel’s heads, and above them are niches with
numerous statues. This is unquestionably the finest decorative
work of the kind in N. Italy, although inferior to the facades of the
cathedrals of Orvieto and Siena, especially as the upper part is
wanting. The reliefs are on the whole superior to the statues.
The body of the church, begun in 1396 by Marco di Campione
in the Gothic style, consists of a nave with aisles and 14 chapels,
and is surmounted by a dome, borne by ten slender columns. The
Interior, 272 ft. long and 174 ft. broad, is sumptuously and taste-
fully fitted up. The handsome coloured enrichments were probably
designed by Borgognone ; the mosaic pavement is modern.
The Cuaprts and altars are richly adorned with valuable columns
and precious stones. 2nd Chapel on the right: good altar-piece in six
sections by Macrino d’Alba (1496); 4th Chapel on the right, *Crucifixion
by Ambrogio Borgognone; 5th Chapel on the right, *St. Sirus with four
saints, by the same. The 2nd Chapel on the left (counting from the en-
trance) formerly contained a picture by Perugino in six sections, of which
the central part, above, representing *God the Father, is alone original,
the other parts being now in France and England. The other frescoes and
paintings by Borgognone, Procaccini, Guercino, Bianchi, Crespi, father and
son, and others are of no great value.
The transept and choir are separated from the rest of the church by
a beautiful Screen of iron and bronze. Rigut TRaNSEPT: magnificent *Monu-
ment of Giangaleazzo Visconti, designed in 1490 by Galeazzo Pellegrini, but
executed chiefly by Antonio da Amadeo and Giacomo della Porta, and not
completed till 1562. Larr Transerr: Monuments of Lodovico Moro and
his wife *Beatrice d’Este (d. 1497), by Crist. Solari. — The *CHorr con-
tains a fine altar with carving of the 16th century. The *Choir-stalls are
adorned with figures of apostles and saints, from drawings by Borgognone.
The handsome bronze candelabra in front of them are by Libero Fontana.
The old sacristy to the left of the choir contains a fine carved ivory
altar-piece in upwards of 60 sections by Leon. degli Ubriachi of Florence
(16th cent.). — The door to the right of the choir, handsomely framed
in marble, leads to the Lavarorio, which contains a rich fountain and
the Madonna and Child in fresco by Bern. Luini. To the right of the
lavatory is a small burial-place.
The Sagrest1a Nuova, or Oratorio, is entered from the S. end of
the transept: *Altar-piece, an Assumption by A. Solario, but the upper
part is said to be by Giulio Campi of Cremona. Over the door, Madonna
enthroned, by Bart. Montagna; the side-pictures by Borgognone.
The front part of the *CLorsters (della Fontana) possesses slender
marble columns and charming decorations in terracotta. Fine view hence
of the side of the church and the right transept with its trilateral end. The
REFECTORY is also situated here. — Around the large CLOISTERS, farther
back, are situated the 24 small houses occupied by the few remaining
monks, each consisting of three rooms with a small garden.
The battle of Pavia, at which Francis I. of France was taken
prisoner by Lannoy, a general of Charles V., took place near the
Certosa on 24th Feb. 1525.
2214 M. Pavia, junction of different lines (see pp. 179, 180).
BAEDEKER,. Italy I, 6th Edit. 12
178 Route 28. PAVIA. From Milan
Pavia. — Croce Branca (Pl. a; B. 4), BR. 4, D. 5, B. 21/2, S. 4,
L. 1, omnibus 1 fr.; LOMBARDIA (Pl. b; B, 3); Tre Re (Pl. c; B, 5). —
Café Demetrio, Corso Vittorio Emmanuele.
Cab per drive 80c,, per hour 1!/2fr. — Omnibus to the town 20c.
The names of many of the streets have been altered recently; the
old names are generally given in red lettering below the new.
Pavia, with 30,000 inhab., capital of the province of the same
name, situated near the confluence of the Ticino and the Po, the
Ticinum of the ancients, subsequently Papza, was also known as
the Citta di Cento Torri from its numerous towers, of which only a
few still exist. In the middle ages it was the faithful ally of the
German emperors, until it was subjugated by the Milanese, and it
is still partly surrounded by the walls and fortifications of that
period. A visit to the town requires about 3 hours.
Leaving the railway-station, we enter the Corso Cavour (PI.
A, 4) through the Porta Borgorato or Marengo (in a wall to the
right is the statue of a Roman magistrate), and following the Via
Jacopo Brossolaro to the right reach the Piazza del Duomo.
The CATHEDRAL (Pl. 4; B, 4), rising on the site of an ancient
basilica, begun in accordance with a design by Bramante, and con-
tinued by Cristoforo Rocchi in 1486, but never completed, is a vast
circular structure with four arms.
In the InTERIOR, on the right, is the sumptuous *Arca dt S. Agostino,
adorned with 290 figures (of saints, and allegorical), begun, it is supposed,
in 1362 by Bonino da Campiglione, by whom the figures on the tombs of
the Scaliger family at Verona (p. 201) were executed. To the right
of the entrance is a wooden model of the church as originally projected.
The gateway to the left of the church is in the late-Romanesque
style. Adjoining it rises a massive Campanile, begun in 1583,
We may now proceed to the Corso VITTORIO EMMANUELE, a Street
intersecting the town in a straight direction from N. to S., from the
Porta di Milano to the Porta Ticinese , and leading to the covered
Bridge (14th cent.; a pleasant promenade with picturesque view)
over the Ticino, which is here navigated by barges and steamboats.
A chapel stands on the bridge, halfway across.
S. Micugns (P1.7; B, 5), to which the third side-street to the
right leads (coming from the bridge), a Romanesque church errone-
ously ascribed to the Lombard kings, belongs to the latter part of the
11th century.
The facade is adorned with numerous very ancient reliefs in sand-
stone, in ribbon-like stripes, and a curious gabled gallery. The nave and
aisles are supported by eight pillars, from which rise double round arches.
The short choir, under which there is a crypt, terminates in an apse.
Over the centre of the transept rises a dome, The pillars of the nave
bear traces of ancient frescoes. The interior has lately been restored.
The traveller may now ascend the Corso Vitt. Emmanuele to the
Unrversiry (P1.31; B,4), founded in 1361 on the site of a school
of law, which had existed here since the 10th century. The build-
ing is much handsomer than that of Padua; the quadrangles of the
interior are surrounded by handsome arcades and embellished with
numerous memorial-tablets, busts, and monuments of celebrated
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professors and students. In the first court are statues of the professors
Bordoni, Porta, and Panizzi; in the second a statue of Volta and
three memorial reliefs of professors attended by students. — Opposite
the university, in the Piazza d'Italia, rises a statue of Italy.
The Corso next leads in a N. direction, past the Theatre, to the
old Castle (Pl. C,3), erected by the Visconti in 1360-69, now used
as a barrack, and containing a handsome court of the 14th century.
— Adjacent, at the corner of the Passeggio di S. Croce, is the
church of 8. Pietro in Cielo d'Oro, with a Romanesque facade.
At the back of the university lies the Ospedale Civico, and
farther B., in the Via Defendente Sacchi (formerly Canepanova)
the church of S. Maria di Canepanova (P1.15; ©, 4), a small dome-
covered structure designed by Bramante (1492). — More to the N.,
at the corner of the Corso Cairoli (formerly Contrada del Collegio
Germanico), is the Romanesque church of 8S. Francesco (Pl. 8; ©,
4), of the 14th cent., with aisles and choir in the pointed style.
In the vicinity stands the Collegio Ghislieri (Pl. 18; C, 4), founded
in 1569 by Pius V. (Ghislieri), a colossal bronze statue of whom
has been erected in the piazza in front. On the EK. side of the
Piazza Ghislieri is the Instituto di Belle Arti, containing col-
lections of natural history, antiquities, etc.
In the Via Roma, to the W. of the university, to the right, is
the Jesuits’ Church (Pl. 14; B, 4). — In the Contrada Malaspina
is the Casa Malaspina, at the entrance to the court of which are
busts of Boéthius and Petrarch. The interior contains a small col-
lection of engravings and paintings.
Boéthius, when confined here by the Emperor Theodoric, composed his
work on the ‘Consolation of Philosophy’, and Petrarch once spent an
autumn here with his daughter and son-in-law. His grandson, who died
at the Casa Malaspina, was interred in the neighbouring church of 8. Zeno.
A short poem of Petrarch in allusion to this event, in six Latin distiches,
is one of the many inscriptions on the wall opposite the entrance.
The Via Roma terminates in the Piazza del Carmine, with the
church of S. Maria del Carmine (P1. 6; B, 4), a brick edifice of
fine proportions, flanked with chapels, and dating from 1375.
In the 8.E. part of the town is the Collegio Borromeo (P\. 16;
C, 5, 6), with its beautiful court, founded by St. Carlo Borromeo
in 1563; the vestibule is decorated with frescoes by Fed. Zuceari.
From Pavia To ALESSANDRIA VIA VALENZA, AOI/2 M., by railway in
3 hrs. (fares 7fr. 40, 5fr. 20, 3fr. %5c.). The line crosses the Ticino and
intersects the Lomellina, or broad plain of the Po, in a S.W. direction.
Stations Cava-Carbonara, Zinasco, Pieve-Albignola, Sannazzaro, Ferrera,
Lomello, Mede, Casiellaro, Torre-Berettt, Valenza; see p. 80. Hence to
Alessandria and Genoa, see p. 80, and pp. 82, 83.
From Pavia To Brescra vii Cremona, T71/2M., railway in 5hrs. (fares
(Afr. 5, 9fr. 85, Tfr. 5¢e.). — None of the stations are worthy of note
except Cremona itself.
The line intersects the fertile plain watered by the Po and the Olona.
Stations Motta San Damiano, Belgiojoso, with a handsome chateau; near
Corteolona the Olona is crossed. Then Miradolo, Chignolo on a small
tributary of the Po, Ospedaletto, and Casalpusterlengo, where the line
12*
180 Route 29. CREMA.
unites with that from Piacenza to Milan (R. 42).— 29'/2 M. Codogno pos-
sesses large cheese-manufactories (to Piacenza, see p. 285). Near Pizzighet-
tone, a fortified place, the Adda, which is here navigable, is crossed. This
district is considered unhealthy. Stations Acquanegra and Cava Tigozzt.
A7 M. Cremona (see below) is a terminus, from which the train
backs out. To Treviglio (Milan and Bergamo) and Mantua, see below.
From Cremona to Brescia the line proceeds due N., following the
direction of the high-road. Stations Olmeneta, Robecco-Pontevico, where
the Oglio, a considerable affluent of the Po, is crossed. Verolanuova,
Manerbio; then across the Mella to Bagnolo and S. Zeno Folzano.
77/2 M. Brescia, see p. 189.
From Pavia To Pracenza vii Copoano (p. 285), 371/2 M., railway in
2hrs., if no delay takes place in Codogno (fares 6 fr. 85, Afr. 80, 3fr. A5c.).
From Pavia to VoguERA, 19 M., railway in 1/)-8/4 hr. (fares
3 fr. 10, 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 60 c.; express 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 45 ¢.), The
train crosses the Ticino, the Po, and a small tributary of the latter.
Stations Cava Manara, Bressana, Calcababbio. Voghera, and jour-
ney to Tortona, see p. 80; Novi, and journey to Genoa, see p. 82.
29. From Milan to Mantua via Cremona.
100 M. Rattway in 5-6 hbrs.; fares 18fr. 20, 12fr. 75, 9fr. 2c.
From Milan to (20M.) Treviglio, see p. 182. Our train diverges
here from the main line to the 8.E. — 241/o M. Caravaggio, birth-
place of the painter Michael Angelo Amerighi da Caravaggio (1569-
1609), with the pilgrimage-church of the Madonna di Caravaggio.
— 30M. Casaletto-Vaprio.
341/,M. Crema (Alb. Pozzo), an industrial town (7800 inhab. ),
and. episcopal residence, with an ancient castle. The Cathedral
possesses a fine Romanesque facade, and contains a St, Sebastian
by Vine. Civerchio (at the second altar on the left). The church of
S. Maria delle Grazie is adorned with interesting frescoes. — About
3/4 M. from the town stands the circular church of S. Maria della
Croce, with effective subsidiary buildings in brick, built about
1490 by Giov. Batt. Battagli of Lodi, a contemporary of Bramante.
The interior, octagonal in form, is adorned with paintings by Campi.
— Crema is connected by tramways with Brescia and with Lodi.
40 M. Castelleone; 45 M. Soresina; 501/, M. Casalbuttano ;
541/o M. Olmeneta; 61 M. Cremona, the station of which is outside
the Porta Milanese.
Cremona. — Sore v’Oro (Pl. a; F, 3), Ivana (Pl. b; E, 3), both
mediocre; CAPPELLO (Pl. c; E, 4). — Cab per drive 1/2 fr., for 1/2 hr. 1 fr.,
for each additional !/2 hr. 1/2 fr.
Cremona, the capital of a province and an episcopal see, with
32,000 inhab., lies in a fertile plain on the left bank of the Po. +
The original town was wrested by the Romans from the Gallic Ceno-
mani and colonised by them at various periods, the first of which was
at the beginning of the second Punic war (B.C. 218). It suffered seri-
ously during the civil wars, and was several times reduced to ruins, but
was restored by the Emp. Vespasian. The Goths and Lombards, especial-
ly King Agilulf, as well as the subsequent conflicts between Guelphs
and Ghibellines, occasioned great damage to the town. Cremona espoused
CREMONA. 29. Route. 181
the cause of Frederick Barbarossa against Milan and Crema, and subse-
quently came into the possession of the Visconti and of Francesco Sforza,
after which it belonged to Milan. On 1st Feb., 1702, Prince Eugene
surprised the French marshal Villeroi here and took him prisoner. In
1799 the Austrians defeated the French here.
The manufacturers of the far-famed Vionins and Vroxtas of Cremona
were Andr. and Ant. Amati (1590-1620), the two Guarneri (1552-80 and
1717-40), and Stradivari (1670-1728).
Cremona was the birthplace of Sofonisbe Angussola (1535-1626), who,
like her five sisters, practised the art of painting, and was highly esteemed
by her contemporaries. She afterwards retired to Genoa, and even in her
old age attracted the admiration of Van Dyck. In the 16th cent. Cremona
possessed a school of art, of its own, which appears to have been influenced
by Romanino especially, and also by Giulio Romano.
In the Piazza GRANDE (Pl. F, 4) rises the Torrazzo, a tower
397 ft. in height, said to be the loftiest in Italy, erected in 1261-
84, connected with the cathedral by a series of logge. The sum-
mit commands an extensive prospect. — Opposite the tower is
the Gothic *Palazzo Pubblico (Pl. 12) of 1245 (restored), containing
a few pictures by masters of the Cremona school, and a richly
decorated chimney-piece in marble by G. C. Pedone (1502). Ad-
jacent is the *Palazzo de’ Giureconsulti, of 1292, now a school.
The *Cathedral (P1.3; F, 4), of 1407, in the German-Lombard
style, has a rich fagade embellished with columns.
The InrerRIoR with its aisles and transept, also flanked with aisles,
is covered with frescoes executed by various representatives of the school
of Cremona, such as Boccaccino (1500), father and son, and the later masters
Campi, Altvbello, Bembo, and Gatti. On the left wall: above the first four
arches of the nave, Boccaccino the Elder, Life of the Virgin, depicted in
eight scenes; 5th arch, Bonifazio Bembo, The Magi, and Presentation in
the Temple; beyond the organ, Altobello di Melone, Flight into Egypt, and
Massacre of the Innocents; above the last arch, Boccaccino, Christ teaching
in the Temple. The colossal figures in the apse are also by Boccaccino.
Right wall, above the arches: Alfodello, Last Supper, Christ washing the
feet of the Disciples, Christ on the Mount of Olives, Christ taken by the
soldiers, Christ before Caiaphas; above the 4th arch, Cristoforo Moretto
Cremonese, Christ led out to be crucified, Scourging of Christ; 5th arch,
Romanino, Crown of Thorns, Ecce Homo; above the last three arches,
towards the facade, *Pordenone'’s three celebrated Passion Scenes , Christ
before Pilate, Christ and Veronica, Christ nailed to the Cross. On the
front wall are a colossal Crucifixion and Entombment by Pordenone. —
The two pulpits are embellished with important Lombardic reliefs, taken
from an old altar, and ascribed to Amadeo.
In the vicinity are the octagonal Battistero (Pl. 1; F, 4) of 1167,
and the Campo Santo (Pl. 2), with curious and very ancient
mosaics; among these are Hercules and Nessus; Piety wounded by
Cruelty; Faith tearing out the tongue of Discord, ete. (entrance
to the right of the cathedral, No. 7).
From the Palazzo Pubblico to the W. the Contrada Ariberti
leads to the Palazzo Reale (formerly Ala di Ponzone), which contains
natural history and other collections, a cabinet of coins, and a few
pictures (open daily 9-3, except Sundays). Farther up the Corso
Vittorio Emmanuele, in the second cross-street to the left, is the
richly-painted church of 8. Pietro al Po (P1.10; D, E, 5), designed
by Ripari in 1549-70, and containing pictures by Ant. Campi, Bern.
182 Route 29. CREMONA.
Gatti, and others. — We then return by the Contrada Bassa to
S. Agostino e Giacimo in Braida (P1.6; D, 3) of the 14th cent.,
with paintings by Perugino (6th chapel on the right, *Madonna
and two saints, 1494), Bonifazio Bembo, and Galeazzo Campi.
We next walk through the Contrada 8. Margherita (passing on
the right the small church of that 1ame, built and embellished
with paintings by Giulio Campi) to the Piazza GarrBapi (PI. ©,
D, 2) with the church of 8. Agata (Pl. 5; choir adorned with earlier
and better frescoes by Giulio Campi), whence the Corso di Porta
Milano leads N.W. to the gate of that name and to the station.
Among the numerous handsome palaces of Cremona may be
mentioned the Pal. 8S. Secondo, the Palazzo Crotti (formerly Rai-
mondi), containing sculptures by Pedone, the Pal. Stanga a 8,
Vicenzo, and the Palazzo Dati (now part of the large hospital),
with its fine court and staircase, all in the Corso di Porta Milano.
About 1'/2 M. to the E. of the town, not far from the Mantua road,
is the church of S. Sigismondo, containing frescoes and pictures by Campi,
Boceaccino, and other Cremona masters; *Altar-piece by Giulio, Campi, re-
presenting the Madonna with saints, and below, Francesco Sforza and his
wife, the founders of the church. — Near the village of Le Tori lies the
beautiful Villa Sacerdoti.
From CREMONA TO Brescia oR Pavia, see pp. 179, 180.
From CREMONA TO PracENnzA (diligence daily in 5 hrs.). The road inter-
sects the plain on the right bank of the Po, after having crossed the river
with its numerous islands, and leads by Monticelli, S. Nazzaro, and Caorso,
where the river formed by the Chiavenna and Riglio is crossed. Near Ron-
caglia we cross the Nure and soon reach Piacenza (p. 285) to the W.
66 M. Villetta-Malagnino; 70 M. Gazzo and Pieve S. Giacomo;
75 M. Torre de’ Picenardi; 79 M. Piadena; 81 M. Bozzolo, with
4400 inhab. and an old castle belonging to the Gonzaga family.
Before reaching (88 M.) Marcaria, a town with 8800 inhab., the
train crosses the Oglio. — 95'/ M. Castellucchio.
About 21/2 M. to the E. of Castellucchio, and 5 M. from Mantua, is
situated the church of 8S. Maria delle Grazie, founded in 1899, a famous
resort of pilgrims, and containing a number of curious votive offerings in
the form of life-size figures in wax, bearing the names of ‘Charles V’, ‘Fer-
dinand I’, ‘Pope Pius II’, the ‘Connétable de Bourbon’, and others. Also
a few monuments.
The train now crosses the Mincio. — 100 M. Mantua, see p. 210,
30. From Milan to Bergamo.
32 M. Raitway in 13/, hr. (fares 5fr, 90, 4fr..15, 2fr. 95¢.). Finest
views to the left.
Milan, see p. 127. — 7M. Limito; 12M. Melzo. At (16 M.)
Cassano, a large village, with a number of palatial houses, the train
crosses the blue Adda. 20 M. Treviglio, with the church of S. Mar-
tino, containing an altar by Buttinone and Zenale. Branch-line hence
to Cremona, see R. 29; direct line to Verona, see p. 180; alsa
tramway to Lodi. — 26 M. Verdello; 321/, M. Bergamo. .
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University. PARMA. 43. Route. 295
The (formerly) ducal Tipografia, founded by Bodoni in 1766, is celebrated
for its admirable printing.
The custodians of the picture-gallery also keep the keys (fee
50 ¢.) of the — /
“Convento di S. Paolo (Pl. 13; F,2), formerly a Benedictine nun-
nery, now a school, an insignificant building, containing charming
*FRESCORS by Correggio in the Camera di 8. Paolo, which was thus
decorated by order of the abbess Giovanna da Piacenza in 1519 (the
best preserved works of the master): over the chimney-piece Diana,
on the ceiling Cupids and emblems of the chase (the celebrated
‘Putti del Correggio’), on the frieze the Graces, Fortuna, Adonis,
ete. The most favourable light is in sunny weather, 10-12 a.m.
‘This, his first work of a monumental character, shows the painter
as already possessed of his full powers. The execution is in the highest
degree painstaking and minute, his handling even in fresco is delicate
and at the same time broad, soft, and warm. As in the later paintings
in the domes of the Cathedral and S. Giovanni Evangelista, the decorative
arrangement seems to transcend the limits of the building, and force its
way through the ceiling, forming an arbour through which the light of
heaven appears to find free ingress’. — Meyer's Correggio.
The adjacent room is adorned with exquisite, slightly-figured
arabesques on a dark blue ground by Al. Araldi (d. 1528). — The
monastery church (8. Lodovico) contains the monument of Count
Neipperg (d. 1829), the husband of the empress Marie Louise of
France, afterwards Duchess of Parma, by Bartolini of Florence.
To the S. of the Piazza Grande rises the University (Pl. 29;
E, 4), possessing faculties of jurisprudence, medicine, and mathe-
matics and natural science. The students number about 200. The
paleontological and ornithological departments of the natural history
museum are worthy of inspection. Director, Prof, P. Strobel.
Quitting the museum and crossing the small river Parma by
the Ponte Verde, we reach the (formerly) Ducal Garden (closed
at 7 p.m.), at the N. end of which is the Palazzo del Giardino
(Pl. 19; C, 1, 2), erected by Ottavio Farnese, and adorned with
numerous frescoes. One of the apartments contains the Rape of Ku-
ropa, the Triumph of Venus, the Marriage of Peleus and Thetis.
etc., by Agostino Carracci, (The palace is now a military school and
often inaccessible. )
The garden adjoins the Rampari, a promenade encircling the
town, and laid out on the site of the former fortifications. To the
S., between the Orto Botanico and the castle, lies Lo Stradone
(Pl. F, G, H, 6), another public walk.
44. Modena.
Hotels. ALBERGO ReALe (Pl. a; E, 5), in the Corso Via Emilia; S. Marco
(Pl. b; D, 4), Via Posta Vecchia, commercial, R. 2, L. 'e, A. 1, omn. !/2 fr. ;
IraLta, near the Piazza Reale; MoNnpatora (Pl. ¢), bargaining necessary.
“Caffe Nazionale, Corso Via Emilia, opposite the Dogana (PI. 25), with
restaurant. — Beer at the Birraria Testi, on the W. ramparts, between
the Porta S. Agostino and Baloardo di S, Francesco.
a
296 Route 44. MODENA. Cathedral.
Cab- with one horse 80c¢., with two ifr. per drive, at night 1fr. 30
or 1fr. 50c.; per hour ifr. 60c. or 2fr., at night 2fr. 10 or 2fr. 50c.,
each additional half-hour 50 or 60c¢., at night 75 or 85c.
Modéna, a town with 30,000 inhab. (commune 50,000), situated
in a fertile plain between the Secchia and the Panaro, formerly the
capital of the duchy of that name, and now that of the province of
Emilia, possesses broad streets, spacious arcades, a university, and
an academy of art. -
Modena, the ancient Mutina, in the dominions of the Gallic Boii,
became a Roman colony in B.C. 183, and, being situated on the high-
road from Rome to Mediolanum (Milan), was a place of some importance.
After the murder of Cesar, Brutus was besieged here by Antony for
four months, Dec. 44 to April 43 B.C. (Bellum Mutinense); but the latter
was defeated by Octavian with the consuls Pansa and Hirtius, and compel-
led to raise the siege. — In the middle ages Modena belonged to the
estates of the Countess Matilda, but eventually obtained its independence
and became the scene of violent conflicts between the Guelphs and Ghi-
bellines. In 1288 Obizzo IJ. d’Este gained possession of the supreme power,
which his descendants continued to enjoy (see p. 302). — On the death of
Alphonso II., without issue (1597), the states of Modena and Reggio (but not
that of Ferrara) fell to his kinsman Cesare d’Este (1598), husband of
Virginia de’ Medici, daughter of Grand-duke Cosimo I. of Florence.
Hercules III. (ad. 1803), who by the Peace of Luneville lost Modena in
1801, was the last of the family of Este. Through his daughter Beatrice,
who married Archduke Ferdinand, the duchy came into the possession of
the younger branch of the House of Austria in 1814, The insurrections
of 1848 and 1851 were quelled with cruel severity. Francis V., the last
duke, quitted his dominions in 1859 and went over to the Austrians.
A specialty of Modena with regard to art-history, was the sculptur-
ing of TrerRAcoTTas, the aim of the artists being to represent dramatic
groups rather in accordance with pictorial than plastic principles, and
therefore calculated only for being exhibited in niches. This branch of
art was first fully developed by the strongly realistic master Guido Maz-
zoni, some of whose works may be inspected in the crypt of the cathedral
(see below), and in S. Giovanni Decollato (Pl. 7). The art was next
practised in a more refined style by Antonio Begarelli (d. 1565), who re-
jected the aid of painting, and brought it to the utmost perfection of
which it seems capable.
The *Cathedral (Pl. 1; D,5), begun in the Romanesque style in
1099 by Lanfranco, consecrated in 1184, has a superstructure of
later date. The facade is relieved by a large rose-window and a
simple colonnade (three arches resting on columns in the wall
and enclosed by a larger arch), which is continued round the
whole building. The portals are adorned with the often recurring
marble lions. The rude sculptures of the fagade, representing the
Creation, and the history of the first men down to Noah, are by Ni-
colaus and Guilelmus (about 1099); on the S. side, to the right near
the choir, is the history of St. Geminianus, a relief by Agostino da
Firenze, 1442 (perhaps Agostino di Duccio). The sculptures on
the N. side-portal are old and interesting.
The InteRIoR is low and heavy, but of handsome proportions. The
nave and aisles are supported by alternate pillars and columns, over which
runs a triforium, and the vaulting is pointed. In the 2nd chapel on the
left, a late-Gothic *Altar of terracotta; 3rd chapel, a Coronation of Mary
with saints on a gold ground, by Serajinus de Serafinis, the oldest extant
picture of the school of Modena (1385); 4th chapel, Madonna in clouds, St.
Jerome, St. Sebastian, and John the Baptist, by Dosso Dossi. By the
8. Pietro. MODENA. 44. Route. 297
opposite pillar is the pulpit by Enrico di Campione, 1322; very ancient
font, to the right of the approach to the choir, adapted for the purpose from
the capital of a column. Choir-stalls by Cristoforo Lendinara, 1465; in
the choir, on the right, sculptures of the beginning of the 12th cent. by
Nicolaus and Guilelmus, representing the Passion. Above these are early
frescoes of St. Christophorus and the Annunciation. By the left entrance to
the choir, and on the left side of the choir, are several monuments of the
Rangoni family, the best being that (designed by Giulio Romano) of Claudio,
Count of Castelvetro (d. 1537), husband of Lucrezia, daughter of the cele-
brated Pico della Mirandola (p. 214); and that of Hercules III. of Este
(d. 1803). The lofty crypt, with four lions at the entrance, and supported
by thirty slender columns, most of them with Romanesque capitals, the
fluted ones in front of the high-altar being antique, contains the tomb of
St. Geminianus; the realistic group over the altar on the right, a Madonna
and Christ, with a nun, St. Joseph, and a servant, is by Mazzoni.
The ARCHIVES OF THE CATHEDRAL CHAPTER-Hovuss contain a
large number of manuscripts.
The *Campanile, or La Ghirlandina (Pl. 2), erected in 1224-
1319, 335 ft. in height, is one of the finest in N. Italy. It leans
a little towards the back of the cathedral, which is itself slightly
out of the perpendicular.
In the campanile is preserved an old Secchia, or pitcher, which the
Modenese (Geminiani) captured from the Bolognese (Petronii) at the battle
of Rapolino, 15th Nov., 1325. Alessandro Tassoni of Modena (1565- 1635)
has humorously described this incident in his comic epic poem ‘La Secchia
Rapita’ (1616). A monument was erected to him in 1860 in the principal
street, behind the cathedral.
S. Pietro (Pl. 10; E, 7), at the S. end of the town, is a spacious
church with double aisles, one of the best brick facades of the
Renaissance, and cross vaulting, partly in the pointed, and partly
in the circular style.
InTeERIOR. 2nd Altar on the right, Pieta by Herri met de Bles; 3rd al-
tar, Assumption by Dosso Dossi; in the chapel to the right of the choir,
*Mourning for the dead Christ, in terracotta, by Antonio Begarelli of Mo-
dena (p. 296). Six statues in the nave by the same master. The Ma-
donna and Child in clouds, with four saints below, a group in the S.
transept, was begun by Begarelli and completed by his nephew Lodo-
vico. 2nd Altar on the left, Madonna in clouds with two saints by Giam-
battista Dossi.
S. Francesco (Pl. 6; C, 6) contains a *Descent from the Cross
(in the chapel to the left of the choir) by Begarelli, an imposing
composition in terracotta, with thirteen life-size figures, among
which the group of women is specially pleasing.
The old church of 8S. Agostino, lately restored and now called
S. Michele (P1. 3; B, C, 4), contains a monument (to the left of
the high-altar) to the celebrated savant Carolus Sigonius (1524-85),
a tablet (to the left on quitting the church) in memory of Lod.
Ant. Muratori (1672-1750) of Modena, the eminent historian of
Italy, and a Pieta by Begarelli.
The Museo Lapidario (Pl. 26), in the court to the left of S.
Agostino, contains Roman inscriptions and sarcophagi, and in the
passage to the left two medieval monuments of 1312 and 1309
respectively.
The Corso Via Emilia, a short way from here, is adorned with
298 Route 44. MODENA. Palazzo Reale.
a marble. statue to the celebrated historian, with the inscription :
a Lodovico Antonio Muratori la Patria, 1853.
At the end of the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, in the piazza in
front of the Palazzo Reale, stands a Monument to Ciro Menotti, by
Sighinolfi, erected in 1879.
The *Palazzo Reale, formerly Ducale (Pl. 15; E, 3, 4), at the
end of the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, a magnificent edifice with a
handsome court, begun under Francis I. in 1634 by the Roman
Bartolommeo Avanzini, contains a Picture Gallery (open daily
10-3, fee 1fr.; Sundays gratis; entrance at the N. side of the pal-
ace, second floor; catalogue 3fr.). The name of the painter is
affixed to each picture.
Il. Room: 24. Simone Avanzi, Madonna and angels (13870); without a
number, Barnaba da Modena, Madonna (14th cent.); 30. Baldovinetti (?),
Adoration of the Child; 33. Gherardo da Haarlem (or rather by an early
master of the school of Bologna), Crucifixion; 39. Giac. Francia, Assump-
tion of the Virgin; 46. Bartolommeo Bonasio, Pieta (1483); *36. Franc. Bianchi
Ferrari (Correggio’s teacher), Annunciation ; 51. Bernardino Losco, Madonna
and two saints (1515); 58. Marco Meloni, Madonna and two saints (1504).
— III. Room: “60. Correggio, Ganymede carried off by the eagle (ceiling-
painting); 66. Correggio, Angels. Then a number of frescoes, comprising
nine scenes from the A®neid (transferred to canvas), by Niccolo dell
Abbate of Modena (1512-71); by the same master, the octagonal piece
No. 107, with singers and musicians. — IV. Room: 108-112. Ceiling-
paintings by Tintoretto from Ovid’s Metamorphoses ; 115, 118, 119, by the
game master; 117. Copy of Titian, Portrait of a lady; *113, P. Veronese,
Portrait of a knight; 140. Palma Giovane, Allegory ; *{41. Bonifacio,
Adoration of the Magi; “143. Cima da Conegliano, Descent from the Cross.
— V. Room: *149. Guido Reni, Christ on the Cross; 163. Gwercino,
St. Peter reading; in the centre the statue of a wounded warrior by
Obbigi. This room and the 8th contain a number of drawings. —
VI. Room: 189, 190. Garofalo, Madonna and saints; 176. Dosso Dossi,
Adoration of the Child; 178, 191, 193, by the same master. In the
centre a marble statue of Psyche by Capelli. — VII. Room: 201. Lodovico
Carracci, Flora; 204. Annibale Carracci, Venus; 212. Caravaggio, Soldier
drinking. — VII. Room: unimportant, and most of the names questionable
(among the drawings are the *Judgment of Paris and the Flight of
Helen), — IX. Room: 297. Madonna, after Andrea del Sarto. — To the
left is the (X.) Sata GRanpe: Statue of Francis I. by Bernini; two land-
scapes, without numbers, by Salvator Rosa; 341. Guercino, Crucifixion of
St. Peter; 325,346. Zintoretto, Mythological pictures; 348. Lionello Spada,
Gipsy woman. — XI. Room: 404. Gasparo Pagano, Nuptials of St. Ca-
tharine. In the centre, Woman begging, a marble statue by Capelli. —
XII. Room: Nugari, Copy of Correggio’s La Notte; Ezzelino’s fall, by
Malatesta, the director of the gallery. — Room to the right (generally
closed): *423. Palma Vecchio (or Bern. Licinio ?), Portrait of a lady; *A8
Pinturicchio, Madonna and Child; 478. Holbein (%), Henry VIII. of England ;
490. Murillo, Portrait of a Benedictine ; 458. Memling, St. Christopher, an
original repetition of the picture at Munich, with alterations; 694. Bern.
Luini, Infant John; 693. Giulio Romano, Study of a head. — Another room
contains small bronzes, majolica ware, carved wooden articles, and
vessels of various kinds, including three with fine Venetian enamel.
On the first floor of the palace is the Library (Biblioteca Estense), with
90,000 vols. and 3000 MSS. (closed ist Aug. to 1st Oct.), transferred by
Duke Cesare d’Este from Ferrara to Modena in 1598, when Pope Clement
VIII. claimed the Duchy of Ferrara as a vacant fief (p. 302). The eminent
scholars Zaccaria, Tiraboschi, Muratori (see above), and the archeologist
Cavedoni (d. 1865) were once librarians here. Some of the MSS. are very
valuable, e.g. a collection of Provencal poems by Ferrari (1254), Dante
BATTAGLIA. 45. Route. 299
with miniatures of the 14th cent., prayer-book of Elector Albert of
Mayence (d. 1545), with miniatures. The same building also contains the
Cabinet of Coins and the Archives.
At the end of the street are the well-kept Giardini Pubblici
(Pl. F, 3; closed in rainy weather), which, as well as the ramparts
of the town, afford pleasant walks.
From Modena to Mantua, see R. 36.
Vignola, 121/2 M. S.E. of Modena, on the Panaro, is situated on an
eminence and commands the landscape far and wide. The celebrated Mura-
tori (p. 297) and the architect Giacomo Barozzi da Vignola were born here.
About the year 1770 Duke Francis III. of Modena constructed a bold
and interesting, but now neglected road from Modena to Pistosa, a dis-
tance of 46 M., leading by Formigine, Serra, Paullo, Pieve a Pelago, and
Fiumalbo, at the base of the lofty Monte Cimone, where charming views
of the Apennines are obtained. A diligence runs daily to Pieve a Pelago.
Continuation of the road (to Boscolungo, S. Marcello, etc.), see p. 334. —
To the W. of this road, about 10!/2 M. to the S.W. of Modena, is situated
Sassuolo, a small town on the Secchia, with a ducal Villa and beautiful
park. The Zibio, a neighbouring volcanic mountain, is remarkable for
its naphtha springs.
45. From Padua to Bologna.
77 M. Rartway in 23/4-41/4 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 5, 9 fr. 95, 7 fr. 5c.; express
15 fr. 45, 10 fr. 85 .).
Padua, see p. 249. The line skirts and crosses the navigable
Canale di Battaglia. — 6M. Abano, a small town, said to be the
birthplace of the historian Livy, lies at some distance to the right
of the line. In the vicinity are the Bagni ( ‘Baths’, a well-appointed
establishment), the Aquae Patavinae, or Fons Aponi, of the Ro-
mans, on the E. slope of the Monti Euganei, an isolated volcanic
chain of hills, with extensive quarries of trachyte. The culminat-
ing point of the range is the Monte Venda (1890 ft.), on which lie
the ruins of a monastery.
8 M. Montegrotto. The train passes through a long tunnel,
and reaches —
11 M. Battaglia, with warm baths of considerable repute. The
comfortable baths and lodging-houses (R. 2-5 fr.) lie in a beautiful
park at the foot of the hill of Sant’ Elena, which is crowned by the
chateau of Count Wimpffen, the proprietor of the watering-place.
In the trachyte rock of this hill is a natural Vapour Grotto, in which
the temperature is 116° Fahr. The {baths are found efficacious in
cases of gout, chronic rheumatism and cutaneous disorders, scro-
fula, etc. — In the immediate vicinity of Battaglia is the chateau
of Carraso, erected by the Venetian family of the Obizzi, and now
the property of the Austrian Arch-Duke Charles Lewis, heir of the
Duke of Modena. It is adorned with numerous frescoes by Celotti,
and contains a valuable Collection of Antiques.
GrouNnD-rLoor. Ante-chamber: inscriptions, large trilateral Roman
monument; farther on, a room with inscriptions and architectural frag-
ments. First floor. 1st Room: casts. 2nd R.: early-Christian sculptures.
Hall: twenty Etruscan cinerary urns with scenes of leave-taking and
battles; 9, 17, 19. Death of Neoptolemos at Delphi; 18. Cadmus slaying
300 Route 45. ROVIGO. From Padua
the dragon; 7. Rape of Helen; to the left, farther on, 40. Relief from a
Roman tomb; 43. Torso of a satyr; Brazen vessels from the Euganean
Mts.; *102. Greek tomb-relief of a young girl; 288. Good relief of the
bust of a girl; 545. Statue in a sitting posture; 605, Isis; 1190. Upper half
of a portrait-statue; 1179. Bearded Dionysus; Egyptian sculptures in gra-
nite. — A room to the right contains a large collection of Weapons. The
Oratorio S. Michele, or Chapel of the chateau, contains good early Italian
pictures.
About 3M. to the S.W. of Battaglia, on the Monti Euganei, is situated
Arqua del Monte, where Petrarch lived and died (1304-74). His monument
in front of the church consists of a sarcophagus resting on short columns
of red marble, bearing the inscription:
Frigida Francisci lapis hic tegit ossa Petrarce,
Suscipe virgo parens animam! Sate virgine, parce!
Fessaque nam terris celi requiescat in arce.
On the top is a bust of Petrarch, dating from 1547. His house in the
upper part of the town, with painted wooden ceilings and faded frescoes
in allusion to his poems, contains a few reminiscences of its former
illustrious Owner.
141/) M. Monselice (Scudo d'Oro, tolerable), a town at the base
of the Monti Euganei, has remains of fortified walls and a ruined
castle, which once belonged to the Patriarch of Venice.
18M. Stat. Este. The town, the ancient Ateste, lies 33/, M. to
the N., on the road which here diverges to Mantua. It possesses
the extensive, but now ruinous ancestral residence of the House
of Este (p. 302), a spacious piazza surrounded with arcades, a Porta
Vecchia with a clock-tower, a Museo Civico in the church of 8.
Francesco (containing several interesting Roman inscriptions), a
Museo Euganeo-Prehistorico (with a valuable collection of antiqui-
ties), a cathedral of elliptical plan with a lofty choir (with a paint-
ing by Tiepolo), and a church of 8. Martino with a leaning tower.
The Casa Benvenuti (visitors ring) commands a view of the Alps,
and in clear weather of the Apennines.
Near (19!/ M.) Stanghella the line crosses the Gorzone Canal.
The country is fertile, but flat and marshy. Near Boara a small
new fort is passed and the Adige crossed.
271/5M. Rovigo (Cappa d’Oro ; *Corona Ferrea), on the Naviglio
Adigetto, an episcopal residence and the capital of a province, with
11,500 inhab., belonged to Venice from 1484 downwards. The Via
Ponte Adige leads from the station past the Corona Ferrea Hotel
to the Piazza, in which stands a Venetian column. To the left,
adjoining the Café Vittorio Emmanuele, is the entrance to the —
Paiazzo CoMUNALE, which contains an extensive Library and
a * Picture Gallery.
2, Copy of Titian, Madonna; 3. Copy of Gen. Bellini, Madonna; 4. Bern.
Licinio, SS. Lucia, Agnes, and Catharine ; “11. Giorgione, Portrait; 18. Palma
Vecchio, Madonna and saints; 22. Giorgione (attributed by Mr. Crowe to
Bonifacio), Scourging of Christ; 24. Bissolo, Christ; 25. Leonardo da
Vinci (?), Christ; 31. Giov. Bellini (school-piece), Betrothal of St. Catha-
rine; 35. Bonifacio, St. Peter; 37. Angelica Kaufmann, Innocence; **39.
Palma Vecchio, Madonna with SS. Helena and Jerome; *42. Perugino (acc.
to Mr. Crowe by Lo Spagna), Madonna; 48. Perin del Vaga, Madonna
and saints; 80. Copy of Bellini by Marco Belli, Presentation in the Temple ;
103. Master of N. Italy, Venus; 106. Cima (?), Madonna; 109. Giov, Bel-
to Bologna. ADRIA. 45. Route. d01
lini, Madonna; 118. Andrea Schiavone, Apollo and Daphne; 119. Holbein (?),
Portrait of Ferdinand I.; 123. Palma Vecchio, Portrait (retouched); 126.
Pedrini, Ecce Homo; 134. Antonio Badile, The Magi; 135. Garofalo, Ma-
donna and saints; 136. Bart. Montagna (ascribed by Crowe to Polidoro),
Madonna and saints; 142. Zitian, SS. Nicholas, Paul, Francis, and Cecilia;
102. Dosso Dossi, SS. Benedict and Bartholomew; 110. Dossi, SS. Agnes
and Lucia; 152. Panetti, Nicodemus with the body of Christ; 148. Palma
Vecchio (copy), Adam and Eve. — In the Library, which contains 70,000
vols. and a collection of Egyptian antiquities, there is a small picture of
St. Lucia, by Quiricius of Murano (1460). The reading-room contains a
portrait of the astronomer Biela. — The staircase is decorated with beau-
tiful tapestry. :
The two leaning towers belong to a Castle erected in the 10th
5 E ~,
century. The handsome Assize Buildings were erected in 1873. The
Monument to Victor Emmanuel, by Monteverde, was unveiled in
1881.
From Rovigo to Verona, see p. 209.
Adria, 15 M. from Rovigo, and connected with it by a branch-line
(fares 2fr. 85, 2fr., ifr. 45¢.), is situated on the Bianco Canal, and
occupies the site of the very ancient Etruscan town of the same name,
whence the Adriatic derives its appellation. The sea has gradually re-
ceded from it, and is now 17 M. distant. Travellers who desire to visit
Signor Bocchi’s collection of antiques (chiefly fragments of vases) will best
consult the convenience of the learned owner by doing so in the forenoon.
— The railway is being prolonged to Chioggia.
321/5 M. Arqua. The line crosses the Bianco Canal near
the Bosaro, and, near —
36 M. Polesella, reaches the Po, which is here the boundary be-
tween Venetia and the Romagna. The left bank of the Po is now
followed. Stat. Paviole; then S. Maria Maddalena. The river is
then crossed, and the train reaches station Pontelagoscuro.
49 M. Ferrara, see p. 302.
From Ferrara to Bologna, 28 M., in 1-11/, hr. The train
crosses the Cavo Tassone Canal, which communicates with the
Po di Primaro immediately to the 8. of Ferrara, and traverses flat,
well-cultivated land (rice-fields). Stations Poggio Renatico, Gal-
liera, S. Pietro in Casale, and 8. Giorgio.
From S. Pietro in Casale a diligence plies twice a day in 1!/2 hr.
to Cento, a small town on the Reno, the birthplace of the great painter
Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, surnamed Guercino da Cento (b. 1590; d. at Bo-
logna 1666). Several of the churches, particularly those of *S. Biagio and
the Madonna del Rosario, contain works by Guercino, who was greatly
attached to his native town. His house, where he received many illustrious
visitors, is still shown. In the centre of the town is his statue by Gallett.
— Near Cento is situated Pieve di Cento, a small town with the pilgrimage-
church of S. Maria Assunta; the high altar-piece is an “Assumption ‘by
Guido.
Next stations Castel Maggiore and Corticella. The fertility of
the soil increases as Bologna is approached.
77 M. Bologna, see p. 306.
=
=. —$—=
=
302
46. Ferrara.
Hotels. Evrora, opposite the post-office (Pl. 27; E,5), mediocre;
SreLLa D’ORO, opposite the castle, unpretending, R. 2, D. 2, L. '/2, A. 1/2,
omn, 1 fr.; ALBERGO DELLA CotomBa, fair but plain.
Cab from the station to the town 1 fr., per hour 1!/2fr., each additional
Vip hr. 60c.
Cafés in the Piazza del Commercio, opposite the castle. Small Restaw-
rant at the station.
Ferrara is situated near the ancient Forum Alieni, 31/2 M. to the
S. of the Po, in the midst of a fertile, but unhealthy plain. Itis the
capital of a Delegation, with 29,000 inhab. (commune 77,000),
and possesses broad, deserted streets, mouldering palaces, and other
imposing reminiscences of its golden period. It was once a prosper-
ous commercial place, numbering 100,000 inhab., and was the seat
of the renowned court of the House of Este.
The family of Este was descended from the Lombardic invaders of Italy,
and derived its feudal name from the castle mentioned at p. 300.