CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION, SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO. JULY 4 1876. CENTENNIAL HISTORICAL ORATION BY EX-GOVERNOR W. F. M. ARN Y, “ Santa Fe, New Mexico — The Oldest City in North America,” 'o;i8$ nnd jf mtimmte RESPONSES BY CEN. H. M. ATKINSON, HON. JOHN PRATT, CEN. EDWARD HATCH, HON. T. B. CATRON, E. A. FISKE, ESQ., C. H. CILDERSLEEVE, ESQ, CENTENNIAL POEM, BY A. Z. HUGGINS, ESQ. SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO: Williams & Shaw, Printers. 1876. riw OPENING REMARKS BY GEN. JAMES K. PROUDFIT, PRESIDENT OF THE DAY. o T is only once in a hundred years ! This is, indeed, the only time in the history of the human race that the citizens of a real republic, founded upon democratic ideas, and controlled by free people, untrammelled and uncontaminated by the idea of the divine right of kings, or fear of the iron hand of unrighteous power, have met together in peace and joy to commemorate, with fitting display, and pomp, and ceremony, the fact that one hundred years of the life of a republic has been accomplished. The so-called republics of ancient history were not governments, “ of the people, by the people, and for the people.” They were monarchies in essence and in substance, and important changes came over them all more than once in a hundred years. It is also thus with all the republics of to-day, except this mighty nation. We can now proudly say that not one gem has been lost from the diadem of freedom in one hundred years. It is a fact that no nation has ever had a perfect history except the United States of America. From the time of the landing of the Cava- liers on James River, the Puritans on Plymouth Rock, the Swedes on the Delaware, the Dutch on Manhattan Island, the Quakers on the Schuylkill, the Huguenots on the Ashley, the Catholics on the Chesa- peake, the Spaniards in Florida, the French in Louisiana, the Russians in Alaska, and the explorations of Coronada in New Mexico, our history is written, recorded and known of all men. This is not true of any other land on God’s green earth. The origin and history of all the nations of the old world are shrouded in mystery and tradition ; and 9 from Caezar to Bonaparte, every human beast of prey has so torn the vitals of history, and so stained its pages with rapine and blood, that the student of to-day turns from it with feelings of doubt and horror. From a confederacy of weak communities, without coherence or central power ; with few of the elements of real strength ; by bravery in war ; by energy in peace ; by wisdom in council ; by the influences of freedom and civilization, we have extended an empire from sea to sea — more powerful than Imperial Borne in her best estate — a sanctu- ary for all the peoples, a menace to none. From fruitful vale, from green hillside, from city spire and moun- tain peak, our voices rise to-day in glad acclaim, and honest pride. May peace and joy be with us all, and all the earth, for many a hundred years. HYMN. July 4th, A, B B3 r 525. Tune: “OLD HUNDRED/’ In thanks to Him who rules above, Let every heart with fervor glow — Our land recalls in pride and love Its birth one hundred years ago. Columbia, among the free, Stands forth a people true and great, And other nations bend the knee In homage to her high estate. 3 From sea to sea, o'er mountains, hills, Her grand dominion has its sway, Thir warming breeze her banner fills, And peace and union rule the day. So let us pledge our hearts anew, Let hands join hands from shore to shore ; Fresh honors on our altars strew, And freedom thrive for evermore. DELIVERED AT SANTA EE, NEW MEXICO, BY EX-GOV. -WA IF 1 . In conformity with the following Proclamation of President U. S. Grant, to wit : “ PROCLAMATION. “ Whereas a joint resolution of the Senate and House of Repre- sentatives was duly approved on the 13th day of March last, which resolution is as follows : “ Be it resolved by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled , That it be and is hereby recommended by the Senate and House of Representa- tives to the people of the several States, that they assemble in their several Counties or Towns on the approaching Centennial Anniversary of our National Independence, and that they cause to have delivered on such day a historical sketch of said County or Town from its formation, that a copy may be filed, in print or manuscript, in the clerk’s office in said County, and an additional copy, in print or man- uscript, be filed in the office of the librarian of Congress, to the intent that a complete record may be obtained of the progress of our insti- tutions during the first century of their existence.” 4 “ And whereas, it is deemed proper that such recommendation be brought to the notice and knowledge of the people of the United States, now, therefore, I, U. S. Grant, President of the United States, do hereby declare and make known the same in the hope that the object of such resolution may meet the approval of the people of the United States, and that proper steps may be taken to carry it into effect. Given under my hand at the City of Washington this 25th day of May, in the year of our Lord, 1876, and of the Independence of the United States, the one hundreth. U. S. Grant. Hamilton Fish, Secretary of State.” HAVE been honored by the good people of this City and County to act as the orator in English on this very interes- ting day which commemorates the one hundreth anniversary of the Independence of the United States of America. And in en- deavoring fitly to celebrate this immortal day, it surely becomes us to express our grateful thanks to God, the Father, Proprietor and Boun- tiful Benefactor of the whole creation, who by His word and power called into existence the universe, of which this Terraqueous is a component part. He adorned and decorated it with everything gratifying to the eye and pleasing to the taste of man, whom “He created both male and female,” and placed in Paradise — the garden of delights — with the injunction to multiply and replenish the earth. Omnipotent is the word of God ! He spake and the world was made ! “ Let there he light” He said, “ and light there was ! ” He uttered His voice and from darkness light was born ; from chaos order sprang; and from an inert mass of lifeless matter animated beings of ten thousand ranks and orders stood forth in life trium- phant. Thus came the universe from the command of God. But how gradual and progressive was the development of the wisdom power and goodness of the almighty Maker ! Light was the first- born ; next, the aerial expanse called heaven ; then the water heard His voice, and of the terraqueous globe this element first felt the impulse of all creating energy. It was congregated into its aerial and terrestrial chambers. Naked from the womb of waters the earth appear- ed. The new-born earth God clothed with verdure, with all the charms of vegetable beauty, and gave to its apparel a conservative principle, 5 a reproducing power. Light was itself chaotic until the fourth day. No luminaries garnished the firmament until the week of creation was more than half expired. It was then the sun, moon and stars were lighted up. by “ the Great Father of Lights.” “ Bespangled with those isles of light — So wildly spiritually bright.” Yet how few can with truth exclaim 11 Whoever gazed upon them shining And turned to earth without repining, Nor wished for wings to flee away And mix with their eternal ray ? ” Until the earth was born of water, no sun beamed in heaven, no ray of celestial light shone upon its face ; for no life was in the earth until the sun beamed upon it. Then were the waters peopled, and from them came forth the inhabitants of the air. In the dominion of this wonderful element life was first conceived and exhibited. The race of earth-borns, creatures of a grosser habit, did not hear the voice of G-od until the sixth day. On that day they obeyed the command of God and stepped forth into life. Then the Almighty changed His style. Till then His commands were all addressed in the third person ; “ Let there hef was the preamble, “ and there was,” was the conclusion. But now, “ Let us make man,” and “ Let us make him after another model.” The only being made after a model was man ; all other creatures were originals. Towards Him if any creature ap- proached in any one similitude, it was in anticipation. Man steps forth into life in the image of his Maker, and found himself the youngest child of the universe ; the darling of his Father and his God. Here the chapter of creation closes, and man has the last period. Such was the value stamped on man by his Creator. A world is made and peopled for him ; a palace reared, furnished, and decorated for his abode. The Great Architect plans and executes the edifice and then introduces to its richest apartment the favorite of His creation. ’Tis here we are taught the science ; ’tis here we learn the num- bers, which, when combined with wisdom, tell of how much account we are. On man thus valued, dignified, and honored by his Maker, a lordship is conferred. Over all that swims, that flies, or that moves 6 upon the earth, his dominion extends. The crown placed upon his head had attractions which angels saw, and charms which angels felt. Man thus placed in Eden with his Eve — from his side and by his side — having all its fruits, and flowers, and sweets, and charms under his control, with the smallest reservation in favor of the Absolute Sovereign of the universe, having, too, the whole earth, from Eden’s flowery banks to both the poles, subject to His will — becomes the most enviable object in all the great empire of the universe. From this creation proceeded the entire inhabitants of the world, who were filed off into small groups called tribe, s, and the first effort to resist this arrangement was avenged with the confusion of human speech which made a dispersion unavoidable. Patriarchs and princes over these small detachments of human beings, called nations , wielded the scepter for nearly a thousand years without any remarkable incident. Cities, towns, and palaces were reared and ruined during the interval from the Deluge to the coming of the Messiah the Prince of Peace, one thousand eight hundred and seventy-six years ago, since which tribes have grown into Nations, Nations into Empires and Kingdoms ; of these the present assemblage are mostly the descendants of the sons of Brittania and of Spain — the sons of whom first discovered America in the year 1492, under Columbus, who described the natives of the coast in a letter to the sovereigns who sent him on his explorations, as follows : “ So loving, so tractible, so peaceable are these people that I de- clare to your majesties that there is not in this world a better nation or a better land. They love their neighbors as themselves ; their discourse is ever sweet, gentle and accompanied with a smile, and though it is true that they are naked, yet their manners were decorous and praiseworthy.” This was the condition of the people of Florida previous to the founding of San Augustine there, in the year 1565, the natives were nomadic and had no towns. Where we now stand in the city of Santa Fe there was a town according to tradition and to records four hundred years ago, which dates previous to the establishment of San Augustine, and previous to the landing of the Pilgrims on Plymouth Rock. The evidence of this is found not only in the ruins of a vast city which was found i in existence in the time of Cabeza de Baca and Coronado. One of the old Indian houses stands in sight of us on the bank of the Santa Fe River, near by the old San Miguel Church. There stands in full view of my audience the Governor’s Palace, erected previous to the year 1581, and built from material of the old Indian town. In regard to the time of the settlement of these Indians in towns there is extant a royal decree in Spanish of Emperor Charles Y, dated at Cigales, March 21st, 1551, containing the state- ment that by an order of the Emperor given in 1546, the prelates of New Spain convened for the purpose, had resolved that the Indians should be brought into the settlements. Philip II in consequence of the intention of Emperor Charles, published a statute on the founding of settlements. “ It was the royal decree designed to protect the Pueblo Indians, and to provide for the settlement of others at that time not living in towns. A number of the descendants of these Indians are before us from the towns of Tesuque, Nambe, San Juan, Santa Clara, whose history and appearance indicate their honesty and native intelligence. They are to-day in our Centennial celebration the descendants and representatives of the people who occupied Santa Fe and other towns in its vicinity, more than 400 years ago. The question as to whether the Pueblo Indians were found living in towns, or thus settled by the early conquerors, is clearly settled by Cabeza de Baca and Coronado, who are the earliest authorities upon the history of this country. They found these Indians living in towns many of which were described as cities by them, and especially the Pueblo city with its many thousand inhabitants where we now stand, and from which sprang the Spanish city of Santa Fe — the “City of the Holy Faith” — the Capital of New Mexico. At the time of the first Indian revolution against the Spanish rule some of their towns were destroyed. Some were rebuilt on new sites. These were the only towns whose settlements were made after the date of the Conquest. From Castaneda’s description in 1540 these Indians were found living in towns, and the city of Indians where Santa Fe now stands was then a prosperous Indian city, and so far as the decree in -question relates to our city of Santa Fe and 8 other towns, the object was to protect their rights from encroachment and imposition. Previous to 1583 the Pueblo Indians rebelled against the Spanish Government and drove from the country the Spanish settlers and priests of the Roman Catholic Church, and we have an account in Spanish of an expedition by Espejo in that year in which a portion of the country was again conquered, and the Indians compelled to work in the mines. In 1 680 the Pueblo Indians rebelled for the second time against the Spaniards, and the historian tells us u they drove the Spaniards and priests from the country, and again established their own gov- ernment and religious worship.” On the 5th of November, 1681, Governor Otermin unfurled his banner and marched with an army to conquer New Mexico, in which he failed. In 1692 the Spaniards succeeded in re-conquering New Mexico, and again took Santa Fe. There is, in the office of the Secre- tary of this Territory, three documents in Spanish which would make over a hundred pages of printed matter, dated 1693 and 1694, which give a full account of the conquest of Santa Fe by the Spaniards, its re-conquest by the Indians, and its re-conquest again by the Spaniards. With the acquisition of Santa Fe in 1694 the Indian towns on the Rio Grande and in the vicinity of Santa Fe, twelve in number, made submission and were visited and taken possesion of in the name of the King of Spain. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF SANTA FE. The resolution of congress and the proclamation of the presi- dent contemplate that the people of each of the towns and cities throughout the republic having a history shall have arranged among themselves for the public delivery on this occasion of a historical sketch thereof from its formation ; and I have been by you honored with the selection for that purpose. Aware of the propriet}^ of such a sketch being full and complete and of your desire that it be so as far as practicable, I have endeavored to attain that end — for cer- 9 tainly no town within the limits of the United States can boast of a longer or a more interesting history than can the famous old historic city of Santa Fe. At my request the following descriptive and his- torical sketch was written and furnished me by David J. Miller, translator and chief clerk in the office of the United States sure vy or general here, with which he has been connected since its establish- ment in 1854, and who is learned in the lore of the preserved old archives and in the records of the Spanish and Mexican governments in New Mexico. The sketch is designed to present, besides the history embodied, an idea of the present appearance and condition of the city. THE CITY OF SANTA FE Stands upon both sides of Santa Fe creek, a small river heading in the lake on the top of the mountain twelve miles to the east and running westerly into the Rio Grande del Norte fourteen miles from the city. From it the fields and gardens in the valley are irrigated for cultivation, the whole volume of water being usually during the irrigating season diverted into the branching acequias or irrigating canals. The city residences and other buildings are almost univer- sally of the Mexican style, built of adobes or sundried brick, one story high, are warm in winter and cool in summer, and are withal quite comfortable. It has been aptly said that the city when viewed from either of the fine natural eminences overlooking it presents the appearance of a large collection of brick kilns. Huge spurs of the Rocky Mountains rise in the immediate vicinity on the northeast, the east and the southeast, and loom in the distance to the northwest,, the west and the southwest, a series of low tablelands lying to the north, the whole presenting an interesting landscape. Situated at an elevation of 6862 feet above sea level the climate is very equable and agreeable, the atmosphere very rare and pure, and the salubrity of the place unsurpassed. It enjoys on this account a widespread and very enviable reputation. It is upon the thoroughfare of much com- merce and travel, as yet wholly by animal transportation, and is the center of a large trade. The population of the city is reported in the national census of 1870 as 4765, but it is believed it was then really much larger, and 10 that it is now not less than 6500. Of these fully 5500 are persons of Spanish and Mexican descent, speaking the Spanish language, the bal- ance being mainly Americans and Europeans — the whole population be- ing divided conventionally into two classes, the “ Mexican ” or Spanish- speaking and the “American” or English-speaking people, the latter class being composed really of a majority of foreign born persons, among them a large proportion of Jews. The city was incorporated in 1851 by the first territorial legislature assembled under act of congress of Sept. 9, 1850, organizing the territory, but, on account of the levy and collection of taxes for the support of the city government, a measure then entirely new and very distasteful to the people, the succeeding annual legislature was preva’led upon to repeal the charter. The city government, there- fore, was in operation but one year — and the first and hitherto the only mayor Santa Fe ever had was the one elected and acting under that charter, Mr. Robert Nesbit. The city was however thereafter regularly provided with municipal regulations prescribed and a police appointed under a law of the legislature by the prefect of Santa Fe county, of which this city has always been the capital, the police being paid from the county funds. The matter is now under the management of a board of county supervisors created by the twenty-second legislature, that of 1875-6. Santa Fe is known in the old records of the Roman Catholic church and is often found referred to in the archives of the former civil governments of the country as the city of San Francisco de Asis de Santa Fe, Saint Francis being the patron saint; and the annual recurrence of Saint Francis’ Day, October 4, is still celebrated by the population under the auspices of the church by illuminations in the church edifices, the streets and upon the housetops, and with high mass at the cathedral. Santa Fe is the residence of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of New Mexico, Colorado and Arizona. There are in the city four Roman Catholic churches, besides another extensive and handsome edjfice in course of erection during the last six years. There is one Protestant church edifice, that of the Presbyterians, who have a resident missionary minister, as do also the Episcopalians, though these have no church edi- fice. The Roman Catholic church have here a college for boys and a conventual academy for girls, at each of which about 150 pupils attend 11 from all parts of the Territory. The population of the city not “ Ameri- cans ” are almost without any exception Roman Catholics. The city contains two national banks, each haying $150,000 capital, the only ones in the Territory. Upon the military reserve of Fort Marcy, within the city north and northwest of the plaza, the government have some excel- lent buildings erected for military offices and for the residences of military officers, the residences only being two stories high. In the northern part of the city stand the ruins of two unfinished stone buildings — the territorial capitol and the territorial penitentiary, congress having failed during the last twenty years to make any appropriation to complete or to prosecute further the work upon them. Adjoining these to the north- east is the Masonic and 1. 0. 0. F. cemetery, a large and well cared for burial place for the deceased of those fraternities and for strangers. To the west of this in the northwest edge of the city near the Catholic church of Rosario are the military and private family cemeteries adjoining one the other. The plaza or public square in the city north of the river, comprising an area of about two and a half acres, contains enclosed with palings inside the surrounding streets a beautiful park of trees covering an area of about an acre and a quarter. The trees are mainly cottonwoods — the eight large ones forming the extreme north tier having been set out in the spring of 1844 by Mariano Martinez, then Governor of New Mexico, and the others in 1863 at the private expense of the citizens. The plaza is surrounded upon the east, south and west sides with good adobe buildings, the principal mercantile and other business houses of the city, and on the north side stands the old govern- ment “Palace, ’’containingnow theGovernor’s mansion, the United States Designated Depository, the United States and Territorial court rooms, the legislative halls, the Territorial library and the Territorial Attorney General’s office. The federal officers for New Mexico residing and offi- ciating now at Santa Fe are the Governor (Samuel B. Axtell), the Secretary of the Territory (W. G. Ritch), the Chief Justice of the Territorial Supreme Court (Henry L. Waldo), the District Attorney (Thomas B. Catron), the Marshal (John Pratt), the Surveyor General (Henry M. Atkinson), the Internal Revenue Collector (Gustavus A. Smith), the Designated Depositary (Abram G. Hoyt), the Register of the Landoffice (Jose D. Sena), the military Comman- 12 der of the District of New Mexico (Edward Hatch) and staff, the Agent for the Pueblo Indians (Benjamin M. Thomas) and the Post- master (Marshall A. Breeden). In the center of the park in the plaza stands the handsome Soldiers Monument, erected of native granite by authority of the Territorial legislature, and dedicated with imposing ceremonies October 24, 1867, to the citizens of New Mexico who had fallen in the Indian wars of the country and to the Union soldiers who perished in the battles in New Mexico during the late civil war. The city outside the plaza is very irregularly laid out, the streets, unpaved, being narrow, crooked and ancient looking. As no railroad has yet penetrated or been constructed in New Mexico Santa Fe as from time immemorial still presents continually the scene of a city filled with freight wagons and carrying animals, these being the burros or donkeys so generally and so universally used in the country. At present there is but one newspaper published here, the daily and the weekly New Mexi- can, issued by the same house, and published one half in English and one half in Spanish, by Manderfield & Tucker, and there is a job printing house by Williams & Shaw. There is one Masonic lodge (Montezuma No. 109), and one I. 0. 0. F. lodge (Paradise No. 2), and one I. 0. 0. F. encampment (Centennial No. 3). There are five wholesale mercantile establishments, those of Spiegelberg Broth- ers, Z. Staab & Co., James L. Johnson & Co., S. Seligman & Broth- ers and Ilfeld & Co. Santa Fe, from the time the Spaniards entered and occupied the country before the beginning of the seventeenth century to the present day, has always been the political and military capital of New Mexico, which, under the three distinct nationalities to which it has at different times belonged, has always constituted a separate political organiza- tion, except when for a short time in 1323-4 it constituted with Chihuahua and Durango one of the Mexican States ; and the historic old “ Palace” building on the plaza has been occupied successively as his official residence by the haughty war-loving Governor and Captain General under Spain, by the power-exercising Civil and Military Gov- ernor and Political Chief under Mexico, and now by the statute- restricted Governor under the United States. This interesting old building, on account of the repairs repeatedly made upon it now-a- 13 days, is fast losing its antique appearance and internal arrangements. It lias been the scene and the witness of many events of interest and importance, the recital of many of which would to us of today seem almost absolutely incredible. In it lived and ruled the Spanish Captain General, so remote and inaccessible from the viceroyalty at Mexico that he was in effect a king, nominally accountable to the vice- roy, but practically beyond his reach and control and wholly irresponsi- ble directly to the people. Equally independent for the same reason were the Mexican governors. Here met all the provincial, territorial, departmental and other legislative bodies that have ever assembled at the capital of New Mexico. Here have been planned all the domestic Indian wars and measures for defence against foreign invasion, includ- ing as the most noteworthy the Navajo war of 1823 and the Texan invasion of 1842, the “American of 1846 and the Confederate of 1862. Within its walls was imprisoned in 1809 the American explorer Zebulon M. Pike, and innumerable state prisoners before and since ; and many a sentence of death has been pronounced therein and the accused forthwith led away and shot at the dictum of the man at the “ Palace.” It has been from time immemorial the government house with all its branches annexed. It was such on the fourth of July, 1776, when the American congress at Independence Hall in Philadel- phia proclaimed liberty throughout all the land not then but now embrac- ing it. Indeed, this old edifice has a history. And as the history of Santa Fe is the history of New Mexico, so is the history of the “ Palace ” the history of Santa Fe. It is now contended that Santa Fe is really the oldest-settled town upon the whole territory of the United States. As the city of Mexico of today is but the old Aztec pueblo of Tenochtitlan of Montezuma, so is Santa Fe but the old pueblo of Cicuye of Coronado. Saint Augustine in the state of Florida, settled in 1565, was conceded the distinction of being the oldest until the acquisition of New Mexico and its capital, Santa Fe, by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848, when the latter of right assumed that rank in virtue of being, when the Spaniards first visited it in or about the year 1542, a populous regulated Indian pueblo or town, one that had been in existence there is no knowing how many decades or how many centuries. The mil- 14 itary exploring forces of the Spanish commander Francisco Vasquez Coronado visited various such pueblos in this vicinity at that time, mentioning them in his reports by their Indian names, not now known; and one of them unquestionably stood upon the site of the present city of Santa Fe. Which of them it was is now unknown, for, owing to the unfortunate poverty of descriptions of places given by the historians of that expedition, it is now very diffi- cult if not impossible to identify any of them with certainty. We are of opinion that it was Cicuye — that ancient Santa Fe was the pueblo of this name. If so, modern Santa Fe with its population of 6500 is not yet its ancient self again, for Cicuye extended along the stream nearly or quite six miles, from the mountains