; . + THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY 914345 H03e Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates https://archive.org/details/edgerleysrevisedOOhowe V w . n • *& 5 ? * - I fit OF THE UKIVgRSITy OFILUMM BY W. VIEW OF THE ABBEY, Previous to its Repairs. EDGERLEYS REVISED EDIHON OP HOWELLS STRANGER IN SHREWSBURY, OR A NEW «£oun!Sit.$* ©ttt'Sie, CONTAINING THE AUTHENTICATED DETAILS INCLUDED IN THE FORMER PUBLICATION, WITH THE ADDITION OF MUCH USEFUL MATTER CONNECTED WITH ITS PUBLIC & PRIVATE CHARACTER, ITS COMMERCIAL & POLITICAL RELA • TIONS, WITH A GENERAL VIEW OF ITS HISTORICAL RECORDS, RELICS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS, MARKETS, POPULATION, IMPROVEMENTS, HOTELS, INNS & TAVERNS, SEATS & MANSIONS, SCENERY, DISTANCES. &C. &C. WITH A REFERENCE TO THE FASHIONABLE INHABITANTS, PROFES- SIONAL MEN, &C. AND A DIRECTORY OF TRADE. INCLUDING ALSO Ott Cambrian tourist, OR .1 COMPLETE DELINEATION OF THE JOURNEY FROM Shrewsbury to Holyhead? THE MENAI BRIDGE. Src. Being an historical & descriptive sketch of the most INTERESTING SCENERY ON THIS ROMANTIC AND BEAUTIFUL ROAD: WITH A DETAILED ACCOUNT OF THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE OVER THE MENAI STRAIT. INCLUDING A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE MTHIEIP®(DIL MTID RAI&WA1T: SHREWSBURY: PRINTED BY H. BDGERX.ET. •2.7 A' 2. 3 ' ;?** - JFMIPA(S3I IHfi Necessity , or raMer *Ae utility, of ct Neio SKETCH of SHREWSBURY— for the use both of the Resident and Stranger- — having been re- peatedly expressed : such an one as should convey Information more generally useful ; that should limit Historical Retail within its due hounds, and extend Relative Matter to the utmost wish of the Enquirer after Ancient Record or Present Existence . The Editor of this small Booh has been induced to revise one of the best Works of the kind published of late years, ( HOWELLS STRANGER in SHREWSBURY ,) to divest it of those superfluous adornments which attend most Rescriptions, and to substitute in their place a variety of information more suitable to the Tourist and the Inhabitant ; for this purpose he has provided what has long been a desidera- tum, viz.— a Directory of the Inhabitants ar- ranged under the seperate heads of the Army — Clergy / rofessional Men, including Legal 535588 IX PREFACE. and Medical Practitioners — Artists — Scientific Gentlemen, <8fC. together with every Individual engaged in Trade and Commerce. He forbears aiiy allusion to the Talent called into action on this occasion 9 assured that the public are com- petent to discover if it exist , and if it do not, he will thus avoid the odium which the egotist so richly deserves. High Street GENERAL CONTENTS Historical Description of Shrewsbury. ( Page 1 to 9. ) Trade and Commerce — Extent of Population — Improve - ments— Factories — Principal Inns and Coach Offices — Po- etical Reflections — Advice to Tourists — The Quarry — Particular Scenery — House of Industry — River Severn — Neio Church of St. Chad — General Remarks. (Page to ) Quakers Meeting .House — Wesleyan Methodists — Old Theatr e-Welch Bridge-New Theatre-Carriers' Warehouses Frankwell — General Remarks — Town Walls — Castle Gates — Castle- Foregate — Coal-Wharf— County Gaol — View of the White Hall — The Danah — Scenery , {fc . (Page to ) The Castle — Lancasterian School , situation , fyc. — Royal Free Grammar Schools — Water-Lane — Infirmary — St. Ma- ry's Church — St. Alkmond's Church — English Bridge — Abbey Church — Lion Inn — White Hall — Lord Hill's Co-> lumn—St. Giles's Church t fyc. Src. $rc. (Page to ) St. Julian's Church — Unitarian Chapel — Guild Hall — Market Hall , <$rc. &c. fyc. DIRECTORY Of Trade and Commerce , — Alphabetically arranged . ■ Mini' / 1 ; THE TOURISTS’ GUIDE SHREWSBURY. This town by the ancient .Welsh called Ymwi- thig, or the Delight,, by the Britons Pengwerne, and by the Saxons Scrobbesbyrig: is situated on a gen- tle eminence in the centre of a fertile valley, and nearly surrounded by the river Severn. Its distance from London is 153J miles. It is the county town of Shropshise and returns two Members to parlia- ment. The Normans after their conquest of the Island either from inability to pronounce the harsher Sax- on words or otherwise, were induced to soften the latter term into Shrobbesburie, from whence Salop and Shrewsbury derive their names. Leland the Antiquary however thus accounts for its origin. Built on a hill fair Salop greets the eye, While Severn forms a crescent gliding by: Two bridges cross the navigable stream, And british Alders gave the town a name. 4 TOURIST’S GUIDE. The rise of Shrewsbury is referred to the 5th. century, when the Britons established themselves here as a protection against the harrassing incursi- ons of the Saxons, who had previously levelled the Roman Uriconium ( the present Wroxeter ) with the earth. The invaded having’ fixed upon the scite of the pre- sent Town, then called the hill Pengwerne, founded a city which in 617 became the residence of the Princes of Pow- is. It thus remained in the hands of the Britons for seve- ral centuries, till the superior prowess and sanguinary na- ture of their Saxon foe drove them to seek refuge amidst the mountains of Montgomeryshire. In the reign of Alfred Shrewsbury was numbered a- moug the British Cities, by the name of Caer Pengwerne. Ethelred with his court kept the Christmas of 1006 here. About the same time Alfhelm a prince of the blood, was in- vited to a banquet by Edric, Duke of Mercia, and was mur dered whilst hunting in the Neighbourhood, by Godwin Porthund a Butcher, at the instigation of Edric. In the year 1016, the inhabitants having revolted to Canute, Edmund, surnamed Ironsides, marched here, beseiged the City, and, having taken it, severely punished them for their Revolt. Upon the conquest of England by the Normans, the City was granted to Roger de Montgomery, a Norman Chief, related to William, who, as soon as in possession, judiciously built a Castle on the Isthmus. Earl Roger was, however, not permitted to enjoy his acquirements without molestation : Owen Gwvned , a Welch Chieftain, excited by hopes of plunder, attacked it with a large body 4 SHREWSBURY. 5 \ of Welch. W’illiam marched with a numerous army from the North, defeated Owen, and slew & great portion of his followers : as an acknowledgement of gratitude to Divine Providence for the success of his 'arms, the Earl founded the Benedictine Abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul. He died July 27, 1094, and was buried in the chapel of the Abbey; over his tomb was placed an armed knight, in stone. In 1216, the nobility of the realm did homage to Wil- liam, (Henry’s Son,) at Shrewsbury, and swore allegiance to his father. The subjugation of Wales had for some years been a favorite scheme in the politics of the period ; the result of the incessant attacks on the Welch, was, that Shrewsbury was constantly subjected to the wild rage of the hostile parties. In the early part of the reign of John, a Royal Council assembled in Shrewsbury, to devise means of checking the incursions of the Welch ; the Prince of Powis, (Gwenwyn- wyn,} offered terms of pteace, but was detained a prisoner. The Welch strove to regahi their freedom : John collected a large army at Oswestry and released the Prince, with se- veral of his Chieftains, who promptly joined bis standard. Llewellin ap Jorweth, who then governed Wales, retired before the British Monarch, and delivered hostages for his conduct; but, afterwards, with the object of releasing bis countrymen from the yoke of foreign government, he broke the truce which had been concluded. W hen this intelli- gence reached John, he ordered the execution of the host- ages, twenty-four in number, and allied to the first fami- lies in Wales. 6 TOURIST'S GUIDE. In 1269 peace was again restored, and the town and castle of Shrewsbury were placed in the hands of the king’s eldest son, (afterwards Edward the First.) On the death of his father, Edward determined to obtain the entire con- quest of Wales : after Easter, 1277, he left London to regu- late the ensuing campaign, and removed the court of ex- chequer and King’s Bench to 'Shrewsbury. Llewellin ap GrifFydd saw (previously) that a blow was meditating by the English King, which would fall ulti- mately, with terrible effect upon his country, he prudently sought the support of the adherents of Montford, by the so- lemnization of a marriage with the daughter of the late Earl , but, upon her passage from the court of France, she was taken Prisoner by an English vessel, and detained at the court of Edward : Llewellin demanded his bride from i Edward, the latter required him to appear and do homage^ for his Kingdom, which he refused, unless hostages were given for his safety. This disobedience was the pretext for an entire conquest of the principality. Edward ad- vanced by slow and cautious operations, whilst Llewellin returned to the mountains of Snowden, surrounded by the numerous army of the English ; the prospect of a famine presented itself, and Llewellin threw himself upon the cle- mency of the British Monarch, who compelled him to do homage for his crown, and fined him to the amount of 5000 marks. The conquest of Wales proved of great importance to Shrewsbury, which had been subjected for 800 years to all the ravages of warfare. Richard II. summoned a parliament to meet at Shrews- bury in 1397 j the king was splendidly entertained, and SHREWSBURY. 7 passed several oppressive acts, which afterwards tended to his deposition. In the following reign, the Welch, under the celebrat- # ed Owen Glyndwr, again attempted to recover their free- dom, supported by the Earl of Northumberland, Worcester, and Douglas ; he twice compelled Henry to retire before him : Northumberland, however, was taken ill at Berwick, and Hotspur his son took the command of his father’s troops, and marched towards Shrewsbury to unite with the Welch Chieftain. Henry hasteued to Shrewsbury, and interposed himself between Hotspur and Glyndwr. Previous to the engagement which ensued, Henry sent the Abbot of Shrewsbury with offers of pardon to Percy’s troops, if they would disperse ; but Percy sent a manifesto to the Royal Army, renouncing his allegiance, and com- plaining of the grievances his family and the Nation had en- dured : this inflamed the passions of both parties. The bat- tle was fought within three miles north of the town, at a place called Old Field, (now Battlefield,) on the 22nd of July, 1403. The Scots rushed with fury upon the front of the Royal Army, which gave way, but the King arriving with fresh troops, they regained the lost ground. Henry expos- ed himself to every peril, and fought with an ardour worthy the crown he defended. — His valiant son, whose feats of arms in France, afterwards, acquired him so much renown, performed prodigies of valour. — “Percy, the high! the fierce! the watchword of a daring band!” waded through blood and slaughter unsated with the carnage he had as. sisted to create, linked in fellowship with the ancient ene- my of his house, (Douglas,) but now his companion and ri- val in arms ; together they moved, braving the wildest roar 8 TOURIST S GUIDE. of the battles’ rage, performing, on that day, feats that ap. pear incredible. Douglas determined that the King of En- gland should fall by his hand; Henry had, however, dis- guised several captains in the royal garb : the sword of Douglas rendered this proud distinction fatal ; having kill- ed the King’s standard-bearer, he attacked Henry with so nHich fury, that he had barely time to escape to another part of the field. During the heat of the engagement, the death of Percy, by an unknown hand, decided the fate of of the day, and the Royalists prevailed. Seven thousand men fell in the field of battle; the Earls of Douglas and Worcester were taken prisoners, the latter was afterwards beheaded at Shrewsbury. This may be named as the first of those conflicts be- tween the white and red roses, which fixed the house of Lancaster on the throne, and deluged the nation for years with its best blood. During this engagement Owen Glyndwr was compelled to remain inactive, at Oswestry. Henry made a public thanksgiving for this brilliant victory, and founded the col- legiate church of Battlefield on the spot where the battle was fought, and the slain entombed. In the fatal quarrels between the house of York and Lancaster, Shrewsbury remained steadily attached to the former. After the defeat and death of Richard Plantagnet, his son Edward, Earl of March, raised an army of 2300 men in the neighbourhood, to whose support he was principally indebted for his throne. He committed his Queen to the care and protection of the inhabitants of Shrewsbury, she twice lay in at the Couvent of Black Friars, and was deli, vered of Richard and George Plant ague t._Bul ; as it would TRADE & COMMERCE. 9 be superfluous to enter into a chronological detail of those events which more peculiarly belong to history, and which are chronicled in the annals of our countrys’ great- ness 5 we shall omit (for the sake of introducing matters more relevant to the traveller) the vicissitudes which Shrewsbury encountered during the civil wars, and the sub- sequent periods of anarchy and confusion. The last Roy- al Visit paid to the town was by James II. in 1697, who kept his court at the Council House. TRADE COMMERCE . THERE is no doubt that the trade of Shrewsbury has been very considerable, though of later date its importance has been rivalled by more eligibly situated places for the furtherance of commerce. Its situation on the borders of Wales gave it an advantage over many other parts, in the trade of cloth and other merchandize, it being considered the common mart between England and Wales. The trade in woollen cloth, as described by Mr Pennant, has from very early days been a particular object of attention to the inhabitants 5 they having possessed, almost exclusively, the trade with Wales in a coarse kind of cloth called Welch Webs, which were brought from Merioneth and Montgo- meryshire to the Thursday weekly markets: at the time of Elizabeth, not less than six hundred individuals obtained a maintainance by dressing the cloth. It was exported prin- cipally to America, as clothing for the slaves, or to Flan- ders, where it became in great request among the peasantry ; this traffic is, however, diverted into other channels, and 10 TOURISTS GUIDE. not move than four or five thousand yards brought to the an- cient mart. This market has subsequently been broken up, on account of some disagreement between the manufactur- ers and the drapers of Shrewsbury, and the market is now held at Welchpool, every other Thursday. Besides its trade in flannels and webs, a Brewery was established here in 1618 ; and in the reign of Henry the VlII. and Elizabeth, it was celebrated for its glove and shoe ma- nufactory. Shrewsbury being the capital of a large and populous county, at this day enjoys a considerable trade ; its vicini- ty to the principality of Wales, and the facilities possessed by its water conveyance and land carriage, render it an ex- tensive mart for the disposal of goods. The Factories here, of which there are two for the making of linen, are upon an extensive scale, the largest of the two belongs to the firm of Marshall and Co. the other to Benyon and Co. : consider- able quantities of sewing thread, of a peculiarly good quali- ty, are part of its manufacture : besides these, there are Manufactories for cotton and flannel goods — an extensive iron and brass Foundry, the property of a spirited indivi- dual of the name of Hazledine — a spirit Distillery — two ale and porter Breweries, and, till lately, a soap and starch Manufactory ; one of the porter Breweries has recently been discontinued, but its place has been supplied, proba- bly more effectually, by the introduction of Guinness and Co’s Dublin Porter, for the sale of which there is a regular- ly appointed agent, resident in the town, who supplies Shropshire and some of the adjoining counties with the po- tent beverage $ the regularity of the supply, the truly ge- nuine quaiity of the article, and its moderate price, enable TRADE & COMMERCE. 11 even our farmers to indulge themselves in the luxuries of a foaming tankard of Dublin Stout. But the more peculiar Manufacture, (if it may be so de_ nominated,) upon which Shrewsbury rests its undying fame, is that of its cakes and brawn; very recent instances have occurred of each having formed part of a royal feast, and standing in the place of some of its choicest luxuries. With the extension of buildings arising from the in- crease of trade and riches, we, also connect the advance of its population In the reign of Edward the Confessor there were only 252 houses, and the earliest estimate of its inhabitants is in 1.695, the town then contained 7383 persons; in the year 1801 a census of the population was taken, when the town, with its parishes, was found to contain 13479 inhabi- tants; in 1811 they had increased to 15512, — in 1821 to 18242, their present amount may be calculated at 21500. The rapid increase within so short a period as from the present estimate to the last, may be taken as a fair cri- terion of the growing importance of Shrewsbury ; and whe- ther the prominent causes of its advance consist in the sa- lubrity of its air — the romantic and varied scenery that sur- rounds it, or its local advantages for the furtherance of 'trade and commerce, it is scarcely necessary to examine ; it is more than probable, that all have united to render it a desirable situation for enduring the brief span allotted for our existence. These additional causes have been the means of intro- ducing into the town a number of individuals of active in- dustry and speculative talent, who, by the assistance of ca pital, have been able to place it upon a par with towns of 12 TOURIST’S GUIDE, greater names. — In place of the old-fashioned shops and go- thic buildings projecting with threatening attitude into the street — occupying the greater part of the pavements, con- cealing within the niches and shadows of their primeval porches accumulations of dirt and filth sufficient to create all the dis- enses Caliban wished his employer — we have an arrangement of handsome fronts, equalling many of the London, and scarce- ly secondary in the extensive choice of the rich productions of the loom contained in them. Among these places of fashiona- ble resort — and most striking in point of resemblance to the London fashionable establishments — we may point out several shops on Pride Hill : the names are marked with a star in the directory ; here the combined ad- vantages of a splendid variety give a zest to their dealings that induce a strangers’ belief: in the more immediate proximity of the capital, supposing this the first place of call, we next di- rect the visitor to the Market-Square, where, facing the Town Hall, in an open and prominent situation, are ranged several shops of not inferior note : High Street, also , is rife with the pur- veyors of those miscellaneous adornments which add so materi- ally to the blandishments of the fair sex, in distinct contradic- tion to the false deductions of the poet, that “ WHEN UNADORNED, ADORNED THE MOST.” Mardol may also be said to boast a similar abundance of re- ceptacles of these descriptions — which affording scope to the ut- most vagaries of the human mind, await the confused deci- sion of the votary of fashion. In several other streets, also, will be met with a display of the germ of extrinsic ornament, upon which fashion rests its claims for distinction, and which await the admiration of the belle, and form tbe beau ideal of her earthly happiness ; but it would be impossible to enumerate the whole united force o£ TRADE & COMMERCE. 13 that phalanx enlisted to indulge the fantastic caprices of wo- man’s wish. The addenda will supply their names and serve to give an idea of one branch of commerce, carried on with spirit and success in the town, and animate the stranger with the striking fact that Englands’ greatness does not arise solely from its expansive ports or metropolitan wealth, but as much from the internal resources its most insulated districts supply. Having so far described those attractions which await the female visitor, we now briefly direct the attention of our Male Tourists to the most particular resorts for improving the outward man ; and if we might so far introduce our opinion as to apply it in this place, we would assert that “ Man , when well drest , is Natures' noblest Ornament We do not mean it to be understood that this is independent of a still nobler faculty, for without the soul or mind, or each or either, man would be a libel on nature and unworthy an intro- duction to these pages ; but, in the general belief that our tra- vellers enjoy this distinguished claim to human nature, we beg to recommend the adoption of Salopian habiliments, as a passport to the society or places he may frequent on his journey : like our English Arab, Sheikh, * he will pass the desarts of doubt unquestioned by the Tartars of curiosity, with which this divi- sion of our country abounds, who, pitching their tents in the vi- cinity of public resort, way lay the rank of the traveller by injurious surmises as to his real station; but the genuine sa- laam, the legitimate acknowledgement of superiority will haDg upon hia accoutrements as a Show-Bill — printed in the best style of the revisor of these pages, and exhibited in a shop win- dow — would designate that much was to be found within. For those who imitate most the cunning devices of the Bond-Street tailleur — see directions at the end : — # Burkhardty the celebrated African Traveller . 14 TOURISTS GUIDE. [The names are marked with a star.\ And, if the professors of any art deserve well of man- kind, let the meed of praise be given to those who make man more perfect than he was formed. In addition to these pro- fessors of external adornment, we should not omit the Frizeur and the Perfumer; these are more limited in number, but equally adjuncts to gentility, and should occupy a prominent place in the affections of our claimants to bon ton , either male or female : the latter we refer to those lines of Pope — “ This Nymph , to the destruction of mankind, Nourish'd two locks , which graceful hung behind In equal curls , and well conspired to deck With shining ringlets the smooth ivory neck .* Love in these labirynths his slave detains , And mighty hearts arc held in slender chains ; — Fair tresses mans' imperial race ensnare , And beauty draws us with a single hair. 1 ' 1 and, by a slight alteration of these words, man, by the adop- tion of this economy, might be easily proved to possess a ca- pacity to entangle within the meshes of his web the other sex; thus ensnaring and ensnared, it is more than probable that the first cause is obliterated from bis momory, but, as a reviver of recollection, we affix the names of our artists of first repute, and leave to the choice of the Visitor which to engage. — [See List of References at the end.] But it would be more than useless to attempt to enume- rate the varied arts and professions that engage the visitor’s time and attention ; considerable interest, however, would be excited by an inspection of either factories : that of Messrs. Marshall and Co.* situated at the Castle Foregate extremity * A fevj years ago, nearly the whole of this building was des. TRADE & COMMERCE. 15 of the town, is constructed upon a scale of magnitude that would be little anticipated by the Denizens of Leeds or Manchester; it affords employment to hundreds of our poorer Townsmen and families, who, without this resource, would hang like an incubus on the limited funds of our parochial legisla- tors. The Factory of Mesrrs. Benyon and Co. is placed close upon the margin of the Severn, in the more immediate vicinity of the Town ; this, also, is an extensive building, it employs a large number of hands, and is celebrated for its manufacture of patent thread- One of the partners, H. Benyon Esquire, is a resident of the town, and a neqhew of Benjamin Benyon Esq* the former respected proprietor, who some years since gave up his connection with Shrewsbury (as it is said) in consequence of the ungrateful treatment he experienced at the hands of the inhabitants during an electioneering contest. We have every reason to believe, however, that his successor enjoys a consi- derable portion of that popularity which attached to his undo* The two largest Inns in the town, are the Lion — at the fop of the Wyle Cop, on the London entrance into Shrewsbury — and the Talbot, situated more centrically in the town, and troyed by fire ; the devouring element having commenced its operations in the flax room , — where a candle or other light had been accidentally placed for a short period , — the inflammable nature of the material lent added f ury to the destructive energy of the flames , which , in a brief space , raged over the whole extent cf the building destroying all before it, fill, as a climacterix to the wound-up feelings of the spectators, the huge pile rocked and fell with a thundering crash to the earth ; but it was again built vp with additional security against fire, and is new in active operation . 16 TOURIST’S GUIDE. approached either through the Market Square in front of the Town Hall, or by a narrow street called Shoplatch, leading from the top of Mardol ; either of these Inns possess extensive accomodations : connected with the former, and occupying considerable space of ground, is the COACHING ESTABLISHMENT of Mr. Taylor; the constant bustle that prevails here in the arrival and departure of the Mails and Stage Coaches to and from all parts of England, render this Office a busy and ani- mating spot ; but this is not the only peculiarity that attaches to it, its economy embraces the most systematic arrangements for travelling — the minute specified is the signal for departure — and, whilst it embodies the utmost calculations of human cer- tainty as regards safety, it embraces economy, politeness, and promptitude. Several coaches, upon a novel plan have recently been started by the proprietor, these appear to afford more than the usual accomodation,, and may occasionally be seen ranged in formidable rows in the yard. The Talbot is also a Coach Office of considerable note, a number of stages start from this Inn to different parts of the Kingdom ; the only disadvantage, consists in its being obscured by forming the angle of two narrow streets, where much of the effect of a bustling office is lost by the close proximity of the adjacent houses. There are several other Inns of importance, though of less extent than the preceding, some of which are connected with the coaching interest, though upon a limited scale, — the others are, generally speaking, commercial; — among these is the Crown at the top of Pride Hill, this — if comfort, attention, and reasonable charges be not a matter of too little importance to the traveller, — will be found to possess every requisite for a sojourn for an indefinite time ; its accommodations are good. TRADE & COMMERCE. 1 1 and its situation is probably more pleasant and healthy than that of any other Inn in the town, — the front windows com- mand a long view of the more central part of the town, whilst its elevation above Pride Hill divests it of the grosser atmos- phere which surrounds the lower division ; the Liverpool and Manchester Coaches pass by it and take up pas- sengers: — the Proprietor, from long connexion with the coaching interest, is perhaps better qualified than any other man in the town to give information relative to travellings For Hotels and Taverns see Directory ] We will now suppose our Tourist quietly seated over a decanter at his Inn, speculating upon what is to be seen in the Tovm and its vicinity that can compensate IV the stoppage of a day or tw r o in its bounds. — As a slight introduction to the more prominent features, we insert here (though generally un- favourable to poetical interpolations) a few verses that may not exactly prove out of place, at least, the reader has the pri- vilege of passing them by ; they were composedby a native of the Town, after many years absence: — Salop ! to me thy smiling face has charms Which other counties-other climes-have not ; Home of my youth e'en now thy vision warms , — Though later scenes have pleas'd thou hast not been for ju. And thou fair Quarry , gladly would I stray Once more thy ever verdant glades among , r lo note SABRINA wind her slumbering way . — Frith one unvaried sound thy banks along 18 TOURIST S GUIDE. Yes ! here Tranquility has made abode : — But, hark! the Organ's swelling peal is heard Whence tomes it ? — issuing from yon House of God ; * The Reverend Preacher now expounds the Word. Salopia thou art bless'd , if blessing is The rich possession of the Word of Life ; — Here PALMER f wooed thee to the Realms of Bliss , And faithful strove, successful teas the strife. And FLETCHERX too, with eloquence divine, Displayed the sy mbols of his holy faith. Taught the dark labyrinths of the Soul to shine, And passed serenely through the shades of Death. Here mild DE COURCY § influential au ed The wav' ring sinner into firm belief ; — JSL Alkmond's rung with simultaneous laud , And hundreds found the antidote to grief. Bui what avails if idly to rehearse How these performed their sacred duties here ; Their manes demand a more exalted verse , — The kindling mem'ry, and the kindred tear. * The new church of St. Chad, in the immediate vicinity of the Quarry. t The Reverend John Palmer, for many years pastor of the baptist congregation at their chapel in Dog Lane, now called Claremont Street Chapel. J Reverend John Fletcher, for an account of whom see w Wes- ley’s Life of Fletcher.” § Reverend Richard de Courcy, Rector of St. Alkmondi for nearly 30 years, a zealous advocate ol Divine truth. Died November 4, 1803, aged 50 Years. TRADE & COMMERCE. 19 From these I turn to legendary lore. A nd retrospective trace the mouldering page, When Shrewsbury' s bulwarks echoed back the roar Of Cambria's thunder and of Cambria’s rage . Yon crazy pile * high towering o'er the flood, Frown’d proud defiance on the raging foe, Bath'd her red battlements in hostile bloody And hurld her vengeance to the vale below . Thro ' that once stately portal — crumbling now In iron panoply — have heroes strode , — Fac’d the grim front of war with manly brow, And hew'd through leag'ring bands a rugged road . And HAUGH310ND f thou, where the rebellious band Of fiery Hotspur meditate the seige ; — Where triple ranks in sinewy ardour stand And w ait-host ilely wait-their coming liege. How different was thy martial bearing then, To the deserted grandeur of the day : Thou looked’st as thou ne'er canst look again , When strewed with armies drawn in fierce array . And I can he ar-in fancy hear -the cry, The deadly war-shout of each hero's band. As float their banners and their plumes on high , And falchions clash and glitter in their hands : — * The Castle, now the residence of J. C. Pelham Esq. one of our representatives for the county. t Haughmond Hill and Abbey, in the vicinity of which (be fa- tal contest took place between King Henry and his rebellious subjects,' -Hotspur-Douglas &c. 20 THE QUARRY. But all of heroism — all is gone , — These wrecks of strife alone remain to tell Her former fame , — her battles fought and won , — That proud Salopia stood and Cambria fell. In the supposition of a ramble engaging the Tourist’s thoughts, we beg to direct his steps to those successive ob- jects of attraction which more particularly demand attention and afford interest : these will be found under [their seperate heads, and, as an introduction to the rest, we briefly decide upon THE QUARRY, The name of which delightful retreat, would imply a combi- nation of huge stones torn from their mother earth, chiselled with accurate judgment upon the principle of the Square Root and ranged in formidable rows around the irregular excava- tion formed by the pick or blast ; but the contrast between the real and the imaginary scene is more than commonly striking ; several walks of the most romantic character, arched over with a regulated profusion of lime trees meeting at the top and forming long green vistas or alleys, sheltered from the summer’s sun, and almost equally excluding (by means of its thick umbrageous foliage) rain and wind. Close upon the margin of the lower w'alk the Severn calmly streams along the unruffled current of its waters, and, upon the opposite side, a steep bank presents itself, whose front, clothed in the rich- est verdure, presents a serpentine walk by which the summit is attained, from whence a far extended view of hill and dale — reaching, apparently, to the utmost verge of the horizon — calls forth those sentiments of admiration which the stranger rarely fails to express. Here, placed with that profuse in- PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 21 consistency which regulates all the actions of mankind, stands the House of Industry, or Receptacle for the Poor, * the Halt, the Maimed, and the Blind. A situation so commanding, a prospect so wide and beautiful, might naturally (it is but reasonable to suppose,) haye been selected as the scite of a man- sion for the residency of the wealthy and the great. The pre- sent building is one possessing much accomodation and of con- siderable extent; it was originally a Foundling Hospital, and adapted to its present purpose in 1784. At the foot of the bank is the riyer Severn, -j- on its further side the Quarry, with its variety of trees, interspersed with meadows and prome- nades ; — beyond these the ‘Town of Shrewsbury, with its churches, castle, and public buildings, strongly relieved by a back ground of scenery that description would fail to pourtray. The prominent objects from this spot are the Wrekin, at about a distance of twelve miles ; Haughmond Hill and Castle, about four; Lord Hill’s Column; the Factories; the English Bridge, &c. Having crossed the river once more, by means of a ferry at the foot of the bank, the visitor proceeds up the first avenue of trees to Quarry Place, the residence of several of ouie most respectable inhabitants. — On the left of this is the new CHURCH of ST. CHAD. The situation of this church is rural and quiet ; it is raised on * A gentleman recently examining our house of industry and County gaol , remarked that “ Every encouragement was held, out to rogues and paupers , inasmuch as they were provided with the most eligible situations that the town contained ” 4 The river Severn takes its rise near the Hill of Plyn - limmon in Montgomeryshire , is 220 miles in length , and terminates in the Bristol Channel , it is navigable from its first entrance into Shropshire to its debouchure into the sea. 22 TOURIST S GUIDE. a terrace overlooking tlie Quarry: there is a good smooth promenade in front which is very generally frequented by vi- sitors. The church is built of free stone, and is of the most ornamental architecture : — probably too light and airy to con- vey an impression of dignity and solemnity, to hand down to posterity that species of reverence which generally attaches to the relics of by-gone days, in the crumbling, time-worn sanctuaries of our God and his worship ; — its internal arrange- ments, however, have a pleasing aspect; it possesses a beauti- fully painted window, and, upon the whole, a stranger would be much struck with its general appearance. Proceeding down St. John’s Hill, (which is in the direct line from Quarry Place,) on the left, up a small court, ’is the Quaker’s Meeting House ; a few yards below this is tlie Chapel of the Wesleyan Methodist’s, and at the bottom of the hill is the Old Theatre : * dramatic representation has for some years ceased in this building, in consequence of a serious accident attended with loss of lives having occurred here, arising f from the ruinous state of the building. In front of the theatre is a narrow lane, down which, and the continuing street (called Bar- ker Street,) you approach the WELCH BRIDGE. This consists of five arches built of free stone, of recent erec- tion, and substituted in place of one of those antiquated speci- mens of masonry, narrow, irregular, and fortified, which more peculiarly belong to the age when the wild son of Cambria ho- vered on the borders of the stream — doubtful whether to plunge * This Building is a part of the palace that formerly be- longed to the Barons ofPowis . ~j- The accident to which we refer , was {he falling in of part of the roof in the night , by which a poor man of the name of Davies, ( who occupied the adjoining house ) with nearly the whole of his family , were buried in the ruins. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 23 through the river in the broad face of his enemy, or to creep by stealthy movements along the narrow, fortified, and dangerous pass of the bridge. At the nearer foot of this Bridge, on the left hand, is the NEW THEATRE ; this building is of small dimensions, and is only occasionally used for performances ; it is calculated for dramatic or equestrian representation, and, during those periods when not occupied by a company, it is used to ware- house cheese and butter at the fairs. On to the right hand are a series of Warehouses occupied by carriers and wharfing- ers, the principal part of that business being carried on upon this spot. Over the bridge is the suburb of the town called Frankwell, * * at the extremity of which are several delightful eminences; upon one stands Millington’s School and Alms Houses, the others are occupied by neat rural residences. Close upon the aforementioned warehouses is the bottom of Mardol, a street which leads up into the heart of the town ; crossing this, a small passage conducts you to Roushill Walls ; these form a pleasing walk, and running as they do, paralell with the river, fully point out to the stranger the circumstances which caused their erection, f These terminate at that part of the town called Castle Gates, which name arose from the line of * Through this suburb is the direct route into Wales, an hour's ride brings the traveller into the land of the ancU ent Britons, and, once here, his further progress is attend- ed with every thing calculated to arouse his imagination and excite his interest. — For an account of this road — See “ An Historical and Descriptive Sketch of a Journey from Shrewsbury to Holyhead Price Is. | To be had only of II. Edgerley , Bookseller, High Street , Shrewsbury .] *j- These walls formerly possessed great strength and encir - cled the town in every direction , as a safeguard against the fFelch in the predatory warfare of that period ; they were defended by archers , and have stood the brunt of many an hostile con fact. 24 TOURIST S GUIDE of wall encircling the town being connected upon this spot by a ponderous arched gate communicating with the castle above. Below this place is another suburb of the town called the Cas- tle Foregate, a long irregular street presenting nothing that can serve to beguile the traveller of a moment of bis time.* On the left is Coton Hill, which introduces us to the Chester and Liverpool road • for the sake of abridging the walk, we beg to direct the stranger up a narrow circuitous lane at the junction of the two roads above-mentioned, and upon the right hand, by which he will attain the summit upon which is erected the COUNTY GAOL. This is a spacious and airy building, and contains within the limits of its lofty walls a combination of building adapted to all the purposes of its construction ; in front is a free stone gate- way, and above it, placed witlim a niche, may be seen a bust of Howard the Philanthropist ; on the left of the gate is the porter’s lodge, and upon the right, after entering, is the La- zar House, or Hospital ; at the back of a neat grass-plot in your front stands the Governor’s residence ; on either hand of this building are gaifce-ways leading to the various cells and courts occupied by the male and female prisoners and debtors ; the whole forms an oblong square surrounded by lofty walls, the external sides of which are entirely surrounded by an ar- tificial terrace, from which the most delightful prospect imagi- nable presents itself : looking across the river from the right- hand terrace, embosomed in trees, an ancient and highly pic- turesque building attracts the attention, this is * We should not , however , omit to mention that about half way along it is the Coal Wharf , being the terminable point of the Shrewsbury canal ; also , at the extremity of the Castle Fore gate is the extensive Factory of Messrs Mar- shall and Co. : as before described. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 25 WHITE HALL, The residence of Mrs. Hanrner, a building which retains nearly all the characteristics of older times, as a feudal hall, ; by some authors it is proved to be an ecclesiastical relic, and a connec- tion is traced between it and the Abbey, by means of huge walls of a mouldering red stone, a great portion Gf which ex- ist at the present. Beyond this Lord Bill’s Column rears its lofty head, and on the right hand is the Abbey Church, at which we shall arrive in the course of our walk. Having turned from the contemplation of the prison, and the views which surround it, we have to regain the town, and, for this purpose, we will follow the line of [terrace leading from the Gaol to the Castle Gates ; this elevated promenade is called the Danah, aud takes its name from the gentleman with whom originated the design of forming a walk on this bank ; the view from it is extensive to a degree: at the foot of the bank upon which the terrace is formed, is that portion of the town called the Gates ; beyond this the whole arrangement of houses. Suburbs, Churches, and other buildings constituting Shrews- bury, are seen to considerable advantage. Still more remote stretches a wide and rich champagne, studded with mansions and buildings of varied character and beauty; and, at tlie ex- treme point of observation, the Welch Hills confine the land of the Britons within its legitimate boundaries. Let the Stranger now turn bis back upon this scene, and, withouCchanging bis situation, look above, where Yon Crazy Vile high towering o'er the flood , Frown'd proud defiance on the raging foe , — Bath'd her red battlements in hostile blood , A nd hurl'd her vengeance to the vale below.' 26 TOURIST S GUIDE. This record of the deeds of other years, crumbling beneath the touch of time and still frowning its lofty defiance on the in- vader, whether the curious or the hostile, is elevated from its very foundation above the head of the gazer ; this ancient pile is SHREWSBURY CASTLE, founded by Roger de Montgomery, and his residence, as de_ scribed by a wandering Scotch Minstrel : — "It wals the residence of Roger 5 — A bauld ard canny sodger , Wka came fra’ Normandeef fyc. This was the lair of the fierce soldier, and the chief seat of his Baronial power; here he reigned as a prince, surrounde d by his mercenary and daring followers, and ruling with a rod of iron over his vassals ; he was, however, subjected to the attacks of the Welch, who, under an equally bold and daring leader, the celebrated Owen Glyndwr, hung like a falcon on the wing of the Norman Baron. The Castle, from its altitude, may be viewed from many points ; its base is almost entirely encircled with walks, affording, independent of the interest excited by the structure, various views calculated to excite admiration in the stranger. The Castle has, no doubt, undergone many alterations since the days of its founder, — this creates a diffi- culty in deciphering anything-like distinctly its ancient state, — but sufficient remains to prove that, as a place of defence, it possessed incalculable advantages in resisting the attack of a foe, however wily or daring, and was capable of enduring a protracted seige. The principal remains of the original pile consist of the keep, the great arch of the interior gateway, and the walls of the inner court. It is now, and has been for some years, the town Residence of John Crescett Pelham Esq ; pre- PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 2 7 vious to whom it was in the hands of Sir William Pult- ney. Immediately adjoining the castle, and on the part next to the County Gaol, is the ROYAL LANCASTERIAN SCHOOL. This school was founded upon the plan of the celebrated Lancaster: it is a neat brick building divided into two parts, and having in each division a commodious room, in one of which the boys are educated, under the active su- perintendence of Mr. T. E. Jones, whilst the girls are in- structed in all the useful branches of a plain education by Mrs. Lee. Very near this building, upon the bank of the river, and opening upon a wide and fertile prospect, is Mr. Jones’s Private Academy ; the situation is at once healthy and delightful, and the internal arrangements of the aca- demy are fraught with every thing calculated to improve the morals of the rising generation, and ‘‘To teach their young ideas how to shoot.” Passing on along the Danah, and under the wails of the castle, a broad flight of steps introduce you again into the town : immediately upon your right is the Shrewsbury ROYAL FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOLS. This school, founded and endowed by Edward VI , and afterwards augmented by Queen Elizabeth, has obtained great celebrity under the management of the Reverend Archdeacon Butler; it is a capacious and lofty structure of free stone, and has recently undergone great improvements ; its pupils have gained the highest honours at the university, and its name and fame are so closely interwove with clas- sic proficiency, that it stands pre-eminent over most similar 28 TOURIST’S GUIDE. institutions. On the left hand is the principal entrance to the castle ; beyond this, up a court, is the Council House: here, in the early part of the history of the town, a Royal Council and Parliament assembled, to legislate for the wel- fare of the kingdom, and to repress by their enactments the turbulent spirit of the Welch. Still further on we come to an opening which, by a steep descent, leads down to the Water Gate, S3 called, from the proximity cf the river to an ancient gateway, still standing, though deprived of its gate; this is the remains of a fortified entrance into the town, and yet preserves much of its original character. — Re- turning up the bank we come in sight of THE INFIRMARY , a new and noble stone building, supported by voluntary subscription, erected within the last two years upon the scite of a brick building opened in the year 1747 ; the want of accommodation in the old building induced its di- rectors to call upon the public for resources to extend the benefits of an institution calculated to remove many of the ills to which flesh is heir; they have succeeded in erecting a monument to the philanthropy of the subscribers, and an edifice that has added greatly to the improvement of the town. Adjoining the infirmary, and sufficiently near to point out the intimate connexion between the living and the dead, is ST. MARY’S CHURCH. This church vvas formerly collegiate ; its spire towers up in a lofty and majestic attitude, to the height of 217 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 29 feet 5 the body of the church consists of a nave, side aisles, trauscept, chancel, choir, and chapels, with a western stee- ple. Oil the face of the church, and near the entrance facing St. Mary’s Street, is a tablet inserted in the wall, and bearing record of the fate of one John Cadraan, Who, in a wild attempt ble only of containing a twentieth part of the articles offered for sale ; the consequence is, that the pave- ment of the principal streets is crowded with a dense mass of country people offering their produce for sale, to the great annoyance of the passenger, who is fre- quently compelled to promenade the very centre of the streets through accumulations of mud, or retrace his steps to where he first set out. The Town has long been celebrated for affording good society ; the Families of respectability resident upon its skirts and within its boundaries are nume- rous, but there does not appear to be that intimate as- sociation of friendship between individuals of the same rank, or that reciprocity of cordial feeling which tends to render our circle of fashion a harmonious co- mingling of social spirits. On occasion, however, of public entertainment, a phalanx of rank and beauty not excelled in any town of equal size, meet together to engage in the festivities of the hour; but the patronage afforded to the needy purveyor of pleasure, is too limit- SHREWSBURY SHOW. 37 eel to enable him to reap a profitable harvest from “ fashion’s follies.” It is not however improbable, that much of this may arise from a more noble spirit of domestic enjoyment, an enjoyment that rests not for its support upon those external appearances which beguile the uninitiated, but speak in volumes to the calm observer of natural action. Shrewsbury is a Corporation by 'prescription ; charters and immunities have been granted it by nearly every king from William the Norman to James II. The corporation consists of a Mayor, Re- corder, Steward, Town Clerk, twenty-four Aldermen, forty-eight assistants or common council-men, two chamberlains, a sword-bearer, Serjeants at mace, &c. SHREWSBURY SHOW, An ancient custom having its origin in the celebration of a popish festival, is still perpetuated annually by a part of the inhabitants ; this consists of a procession formed by the diffe- rent trades, who still retain the charter granted them of old,. The companies assemble in the morning of the second monday after Trinity Sunday, before the Castle, accompanied by their Wardens, a profusion of flags, banners, and emblematic devices together with music attending them ; each company is then ar- ranged in the order of procession, and preceded by an indi- vidual on horseback, gaudily arrayed (with his horse) in a mis- cellaneous distribution of patches and finery: this (if a man) is denominated " the King of the Trade” to which he belongs; if a woman — “the Queen.” The united Company of Booksellers, Painters, and Sadlers, are represented by a man dressed in tbe costume of Reubens, (recently substituted for a led caparisoned horse ;) this is exclusively typical of the “ art Divine,” except- ing the furniture of the horse which applies to the saddler. 38 TOURISTS GUIDE. Bnt the booksellers are too indistinctly defined in this arrang- ment (except by a paltry banner) to give a stranger any idea of their incorporation ; yet, the device is one, without excep- tion, creditable to the taste of the company: an illustration more complete of the courtly figure and the graceful attire of the olden time could scarcely be procured, even from the choicest works of art which have been handed down to poste- rity, and it has the effect of throwing their train of majesties com- pletely into the shade; yet the eye of vulgar taste loves to wander, in preference, where the portly eighth Henry Swayed with fat obscene , Lards the lean earth And taints the scented green. This figure is denominated “ the King of the masons,” and is dressed as near the style of that monarch as circumstances will admit. The Smiths and Armourers are preceded by a Knight in complete armour, the warlike tendency of whose accoutrements are rendered sufficiently ludicrous by the vain attempt of knighthood, to wear his honours with anything like complacen- cy; the pendulous motion of his body, countenanced by the weight of armour-fitting with incorrigible tenacity to his loins,- joined with the warmth of the weather, the occasional caper of his broken-kneed-wind galled and sorely jaded steed, pro- duce an effect as ridiculous as it is possible to conceive. The Hair Dressers, till lately, have been led by a Queen ; this damsel, selected from the mob on account of a shewy face, is first-we presume-placed in intimate contact with a mop and pail of water. * The process of purification having been duly * We are led to this conclusion by the wonder ous transforma - tions cehich have taken place in the personal cleanliness of in- dividuals who have been selected for this distinguished situa- ation , and the imperious doubt that all ordinary methods tcotddfail to remove the incrustation' SHREWSBURY SHOW 39 observed,, an emblazonment of the whole person ensues: “a roseate hue” mantles on either cheek, — the “ delicate white and red”, by painter’s hand laid on, gives a bewitching air to the ambitious maid : — bedeck’d with silks and satins, and san- dals formed of silks of varied dyes, with crown-tiara-diadem or eke, an imitation of the gorgeous three, she sweeps along — a queen or like a queen. The Cloth Workers are represented by the figure of Ed- ward IV. The Hatters and Furriers , till of late, were pre- ceded by an American Indian. The Skinners, by the figure of a Stag, large as life, attended by huntsmen sounding their bugles. The procession thus formed proceeds along the principal streets, then over the Welsh Bridge in the direction of Kings- land, where each company has its seperate arbour, or pavilion, adorned with the arms of the company over its entrance : here a cold collation awaits the mummers. The day is spent in festivity, and at the close of the even- ing the company leave the ground by a different route, and re- turn into the town over the Welsh Bridge. * r I his ancient custom has lost much of its importance, and, unless supported with more spirit than heretofore, will eventu- ally dwindle away into comparatiAe insignificance * Formerly it Was customary for the inasters of the different trades to walk ivith the procession , but this has in a great measure ceased; and noio the journeymen and apprentices al- most exclusively adhere and follow the banner of their repre- sentative. Their devotion and fidelity to the cause being de- monstrated on their return from the ground by repeated hur- rahs and a direct aptitude to irregular locomotion ; in a ivord, the tv hole body get regularly drunk. The commander exhibits more than his ivonted confidence , but the royal freaks ave somewhat kept in check by the careful gripe of two equally redolent guardians of his conduct . 40 TOURIST S GUIDE. The following' curious notice (in connection with St. Alk- mond’s Church) is still in preservation ; displaying forcibly the superstitious feeling of our ancestors. “ This y ere, 1533., upon twelfe day, in Shrews- bury, the Dyvyll (i. e. devil) appeared in St. Aik * mond’s Churche there , ivhen the preest teas at high masse, with great tempeste and darknesse, so that as he passed through the churche he mountyd up the steeple of the said churche, tering (tearing) the wyers of the said cloche, and put the print of his cluwes upon the fourth hell, and took one of the pinnacles away with him, and for the tyme stayed all the bells in the churches within the sayde towne, that they could neyther toll nor ring . Among the curiosities to be seen in the Royal Free Grammar School of Shrewsbury, are three se- pulchral stones discovered in plowing a field near Wroxeter, of which a correct description is given by Mr Pennant. — “The largest has on its summit a pine-cone be- tween two lions., and beneath the pediment a rose, the first is taken from the Pice a, called by Pliny, Feralis Arbor, expressive of its melancholy subject, and not unfrequent on memorials of this kind. Such was the great brass cone, five yards high, which crowned the mausoleum of Adrian, now the tower of St. Angelo, and is still preserved in the gardens of Belvedere. The inscription denotes the death of C. Minnivus Secundus, of the town of Pol- lentia, a beneficiarius, or veteran of the twentieth legion, who had served his time, and was called again into service by the entreaties of the chief legate. ROMAN ANTIQUITIES. 41 The second stone has,, on the upper pari, a hu- man face, two dolphins, and two serpents. Beneath are three panels. In the first is commemorated by her husband, Placida , aged fifty-five, and thirty years his wife. In the next is an inscription to De- uccus, a boy fifteen years old, son to the same person, Curagente patre. The third panel is a blank ; so, it is probable, that the man who erected this monument, designed to be buried in the same place with his wife and son, but dying elsewhere, this pannel remained unfilled. The third stone is inscribed to M. Petronius, Sigifer, or standard bearer to the Legio quatuor - decima gemina, the fourteenth double Legion, or a legion formed from two. As this legion never was in England, the learned Dr. Ward guesses that Pe- tronius only came for his health and died here. * * A few other Roman antiquities , chiefly from Wroxe - ter , are deposited in a small museum separated from the lower end of the room . Here are also some fossils, and other natural curiosities. Among the latter is the dried body of a sturgeon , caught in the Severn , a little below the castle , in 1802 . When alive , it weighed one hundred and ninety two pounds , and was nine feet long , and three feet four inches round. It ft as healthy and full of spawn , and though in struggling the bones of the head, were fractured, it lived a day and a night after being taken out of the water , a circumstance almost as extraordinary as its pas- sage of three hundred miles up the river from the sea . In front of the schools , on the town side , is an inclosed play* ground ; there is also a considerable portion of land for the same purpose in the interior part of the premises , with two commodious houses for the masters. 42 TOURIST S GUIDE. At the upper end of High street, is an ancient red stone building, which was formerly the Hall of the Cloth Makers, or Shearmen’s Company. It is not known when it was erected* but, not many years ago, it bore evident marks of the architecture of the 14th century. A large ancient timber house, called the Old Post Office, adjoins the south side, and, with the building in question, forms a court, entered from the street by a gate* way.* The first notices we have of travelling to or from Shrewsbury by coach conveyance, is extracted from the Diary of Sir William Dugdale ; which states, that in the month of June, 1681. having occasion to remove from Lon- don to his country seat, in Warwickshire, he came down by the Shrewsbury coach. This first coach to Shrewsbury did not it appears long continue, as all traces of its existence had vanished as late as 1750; when a lady, whom sudden business called to London, was compelled to ride to Ivetsy Bank, fifteen miles east of Shiffnal, to meet the Chester and London Coach, by which means only she could obtain a more rapid locomo- tion than that afforded by the stage Waggon from Shrews- bury to London. At the close of the year 1750, a new carriage started called The Caravan ; it was fitted np with benches to con- * This hall lias undergone , not only several alterations in its structure , hut has been applied at various times , to purposes of a somewhat dissimilar nature ; it has been the of useful commerce — it lias been devoted to the ra- tional amusements of the stage — it has been a methodist a tsjjcl ; and afterwards a tea warehouse . MISCELLANEOUS. 43 tain from twelve to eighteen persons ; the style of the vehi. cle resembled the caravans in which wild beasts are trans- ported to country fairs. It was drawn by six able horses, and professed to perform the journey in four days, but generally occupied five. In Aril, 1743, the Birmingham and Shrewsbury Long Coach, with six horses, started from the Old Red Lion here, to the Bell in Holborn, and performed the journey in four days, the fare being ISs. In an extract from Dr. Taylor’s MSS., given by Phil- lips, reference is made to the ordinary mode of travelling adopted by the nobility, long before the introduction of any vehicle resembling a light carriage, — 1 This yeare, 1582, and the 11th daye of Marche, beinge Mo an day, at nyght. the Right Honourable Lady Mary Sidney came to this town of Salop, in her Waggon, and tooke up her lodgynge at my Lord’s Place theire ; and on the 12th day ensuing, the most valiant Knight Sir Henry Sidney, hyr husband, being Lord President of the Marches, came also from Ludlowe, to thys towne of Salop, in ho- nourable manner, and as he passed in hys Wagon, by th^ Condit, at the Wyle Cop, were made two excellent orations, by two of the FreeScool scollars, he staying in hys Wagon, to hear the same, the which in the end he praysed very well : and soe passed through towards hys lady, with his trooinpiter blowy ug verey joyfully to behold and see.’ A good specimen of the smaller mansion of Queen Eli- zabeth’s time, may be seen in Barker Street; it is built of red stone, and incloses three sides of a small court : this ljuildingis denominated 44 TOURIST’S GUIDE THE BELL STONE HOUSE, and is supposed to have been erected by Edward Owen, Alderman and Draper, of Shrewsbury, in 15S2,from whom have descended the Owens of the Woodhouse. A mon £ the eminent characters of whom Shrewsbury claims the honor of giving birth, not one is more worthy of record than that celebrated naval Commander, John Benbow r . John Benbow, Vice-Admiral of the Blue, was born at Shrewsbury about the year 1650, and descended from an ancient and worthy family 5 his father, Colonel John Ben- bow, and many of his relations, were much reduced by their loyal though unfortunate attachment to the cause of Charles the First. As it would be impossible to give a de- tail of that series of events which introduced young Ben- bow to the special favour of King William, and his subse- quent aggrandisement, we beg to refer our readers to seve- ral accounts which have appeared,* relating to this great man. It is generally known that a series of disappoint- ments attended his professional career ; as also that his merit obtained for him a high station in the estimation of his Sovereign ; several peculiar anecdotes are related of him, one of which only we have room to quote. — * An abridged though luminous history of his adventures will be found in the Shropshire Gazetteer , but this is merely an extract from a more copious work , by a biogra - of whom at present we cannot recollect the name. But it is to the son-in-law of the Admiral, (Paul Carlton Esq, of Milton , near Abingdon, J the Public are indebted for any particular account of the life and exploits of the gal. lant sailor. — Editor . EMINENT MEN. 45 6 In the year 1686, Captain Benbow, in his own vessel, (previous to entering 1 his Majesty’s service,) was attacked in his passage to Cadiz by a Saiee Rover, against which he defended himself, though very unequal in number, with the greatest bravery, till at last the Moors boarded him, but were quickly beat out of the ship again, with the loss of thirteen men, whose heads Captain Benbow ordered to be cut off, and thrown into a tub of pork pickle. When he arrived at Cadiz, he went ashore, and ordered a servant to follow him with the Moor’s heads, in a sack. lie had scarcely landed, before the Officers of the revenue enquired of his servant what he had in his sack. The Captain an- swered, Salt provisions for mj T own use. That maj' be, an- swered the officers, but we must insist upon seeing them. Captain Benbow alledged, that he was no stranger there, that he did not use to run goods, and pretended to take it ill that he was suspected. The officers told him, that the magistrates were sitting not far off, and that if they were satisfied with his word, his servant might carry the provi- sions where he pleased, but that otherwise it was not in their power to grant any such dispensation. The Captain consented to the proposal, and away they marched to the Custom-House, Mr. Eenbow in front, his man in the centre, and the officers in the rear. The magistrates, when he came before them, treated Captain Benbow with great civi- lity, told him they were sorry to make a point of such a trifle, but, since he had refused to shew the contents of his sack to their officers, the nature of their employments obliged them to demand a sight of them \ and that, as they doubted not they were salt provisions, the shewing them could be no great consequence one way or the other. ‘ I told you ,’ said the captain, sternly, 4 they were salted pro- visions for my own use, Cccsar , throw them down upon 46 TOURIST’S GUIDE. the table , and, Gentlemen , £/* you like them , they are at your serviced The Spaniards were exceedingly struck at the sight of the Moors’ heads, and no less astonished at the account of the Catpain’s adventure, who, with so small a force had been able to defend himself against and defeat such a number of Barbarians. They sent an ac- count of the w r hole matter to the Court of Madrid, and Charles II., then King of Spain, was so much pleased with it, that he wished to see the English Captain, who made a journey to Court, where he was received with great testi- monies of respect; and not only dismissed with a hand- some present, but his Catholick Majesty was also pleased to write a letter in his behalf to King James, who, upon the Captain’s return, gave him a ship, which was his intro- duction to the Royal Navy. The talented and wellknown Dr. John Taylor was born at Shrewsbury. This gentleman was the son of a Barber, and the grandson of the Rev John Taylor, B. A., third mas- ter of Shrewsbury School.* * Young Taylor's father was employed to dress the wigs and trim the beard of Roger Owen , Esq., of Condover . This gentleman was accustomed frequently to converse with his barber respecting his family and the future pros- pects of his children. Old Taylor used, to declare that he had good hopes of them all , except his son Jack , whom he could not get to take to the business , or to handle the razor or the comb. Mr. Owen , therefore , determined to give young Taylor a learned education , in which expense he was no doubt assisted by one of the exhibitions from Shrewsbury School to St. John's College , Cambridge. Dr . Taylor used to complain to his intimate friends of the riotous festivity , in which gratitude obliged him to take a part , at the house of his patron, ivhose favour he at last forfeited by refusing to drink a Jacobite toast on his knees . EMINENT MEN. 47 Dr. Charles Burney, an eminent musician, was .born at Shrewsbury, in 17*20, and educated at the Free Gram- mar School there. Between the years 1776 and 1789, he produced his admired History of Music, in 5 Vols. His son Charles became an eminent scholar and divine, who died in December, 1817, and whose library was purchased by parliament, and presented to the British Museum. His daughter Frances, the wellknown Madame d’ Arbly, was the authoress of Evelina, Cecilia, Camilla, aud The Wan- derer. Dr. John Thomas, Bishop of Salisbury, was born at Shrewsbury. Bishop Newton relates a curious circum- stance relative to this prelate. — 6 There were,’ says that writer, in his own life, 1 at that time, two Dr. Thomas’s, who were not easily distinguished; for somebody was speaking of Dr. Thomas 3 it was asked, which Dr. Thomas do you mean? Dr. John Thomas — They are both named John. Dr. Thomas who has a living in the city, — They have both livings in the city. Dr. Thomas who is Chaplain to the King. — They are both chaplain to the King. Dr. Thomas who is a very good preacher. — They are both very good preachers. Dr. Thomas who squints. — They both squint. They were afterwards both Bishops. Dr. Thomas was chaplain to the English factory, at Hamburgh, and used to go from thence to wait upon George 11. at Hanover, on that King’s frequent visits to his electoral dominions. The remains of the Bishop were interred in the Cathedral of Salisbury ; in which there is a monument erected to his memory. We could enumerate manyother learned and eminent characters, born and connected with Shrewsbury by cir- cumstances • but our space is too limited for a biographical 48 TOURIST’S GUIDE. sketch of men and names. We shall proceed to inform the stranger, that a walk to BATTLEFIELD, At a distance of about three miles from the town, will in- troduce him to the spot where L ‘ In fruitful peace the fields of horror beam ; Through sculls and graves the p\ow pursues its path : Oft doth the swain their arms * from dust redeem , And reap life's harvest with the blades of death'' c. a. ii. We have before referred to this field, where the blood of the heroic followers of the fiery Percy — the daring Douglass u TVhose high deeds , Whose hot incursions , and great name in arms , Holds from all soldiers chief majority streaming, mingled with the loyal current of the adherents of Henry. The following sketch of the battle is extracted from the Rev. H. Owen’s “ Account of the Town of Shrews- bury,”— “ The fight began early in the morning of St Magda- lene’s eve, July 22, 1403, in a place called Battlefield, near a small brook just without the north gate. Percy placed his best troops amidst some acres of ripe peas, hoping * In 1S23, two ancient shields were plowed up , of diffe- rent dimensions. The smallest , ( which is the most valua- ble,) is supposed to hare been worn by cm horseman , and the larger by a foot soldier." — 44 Ilulbert’s Select Curiosi- ties, &c.” BATTLE OF OLD FIELD. 49 thereby to retard the motion of his adversary's heavy armed Infantry. The onset commenced with a dreadful discharge of arrows from both lines, the King’s forces crying out “ St George,” those of the rebels, \from Holyhead . MONA INN, 95| miles from Shrewsbury , and 12 from Holyhead. This is a new built and very commodious Inn, where the traveller will meet with attention and civility. HOLYHEAD, 107 \ miles from Shrewsbury , and 2Q0^from London. The town consists principally of one street, with a handsome embattled church, formerly collegiate, but now parochial, and belonging to Jesus College Oxford ; the churchyard is surrounded by a stone wall with a round tower at the north-east corner of the sea, and supposed by some to have been a fortress, the idea of which is certainly justified by their present appearance. Here are also an assem- bly-room, and baths for the amusement and accom- TO HOLYHEAD. 35 modation of visitors, and a well-supplied market on Saturday ; but the traveller whose object is pleasure alone, will find little to interest him here. The South Stack light house, on an islet, within about twenty yards of the bold cliffs of the moun- tain, exhibits a revolving light of the greatest utility. The islet is connected with the mountain by means of a rope bridge, which is perfectly safe to cross over although of awful sublimity in appearance. An extensive pier on an island called Ynyshalen , forms the north side of the harbour ; at the extre- mity of which, is a fine light house, exhibiting a brilliant light by oil gas. The Mail arrives at Holyhead at 12 o’clock at night, the steam packet sailing immediately and reaching Dublin by 7 the next morning. A packet also sails every morning at 7. FINIS. Howell, Printer, Salop. IJrs ~8 9 10 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 9 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 7 9 9 10 11 1 TIME-BILL. ■**+*«■ ng NDON :ad. STAGES OF THE MAIL. Mail arrives at Returning FROM HOLYHEAD TO LONDON. Hrs. Min. P. M. London - - 6 5 A.M. P. M. South Mims - 4 20 A. M. P. M. Redburn - 3 10 A. M. A. M. Brickhill - - 1 10 A. M. A. M. Stony Stratford 12 10 A. M. A. M. Towcester - 11 20 ?. M. A. M. Daventry - 9 55 P. M. A. M. Dunchurch - 9 5 P. M. A. M. Coventry - - 7 50 P. M. A. M. Stonebridge - 6 55 P. M. A. M. Birmingham - 4 52 P. M. A.M. Wolverhampton 3 24 P. M. A. M. Shiffnal - - 2 2 P. M. P. M. Hay gate - 1 12 P. M. P. M. Shrewsbury 11 45 A. M. P. M. Nesscliff - - 10 52 A.M. P. M. Oswestry - 9 53 A. M. P. M. Llangollen - 8 35 A. M. P. M. Corwen - - 7 1 A. M. P. M. Cernioge - 5 40 A. M. P. M. Capel Curig - 4 10 A. M. P. M. Tyn y maes - 3 22 A. M. P.M. Penrhyn Arms 2 40 A. M. P. M. Mona Inn _ 1 18 A. M. A* M. Holyhead - 12 midnight- / ****•*&■'*** ' : -' *• c - "• >;• ••- ; j 0 T ■ - h , : SKETCH OF THE LIVERPOOL AND MANCHESTER &atl Wag, r~'- j ■ .41 - ■ ■ r 1 • r ■* ,,, . .. .. .: i. .. . * *S-*-*y*;V* Uv f£ < _ . . i .. jc.> { SKETCH OF THE Utbetyool a no ittaucftessur RAIL WAY, WITH A GUIDE TO THE TUNNELS, THE BRIDGES, AND OTHER SCIENTIFIC WORKS OF INTEREST TO THE TRAVELLER THROUGHOUT THE LINE. SHREWSBURY : Printed by H. EDGE RLE Y, Castle Street ... 1830. SKETCH OP THE ftatl toas, Ettuueig, The important event which has so recently taken place in the completion of the above stupendous undertaking has, at last, after years of speculation, demonstrated the practibility of reducing (with efficient re- sources) some of our apparently wildest theories within the bounds of practical utility. The enterprising spirit of our commercial population, aided by the funds of their liberal minded contemporaries in society’s higher grade, has effected its A 3 6 object, in despight of the many natural and almost insurmountable obstacles which at every step presented a rampart against genius and industry. Briefly, however, as the limits of a cheap pamphlet allow us to enter into the investigation of its future effect upon trade and commerce, Ave cannot so readily skip over the immediate circum- stances which connect themselves with this undertaking. To afford some clue to the extent of the enterprize, it is sufficient to premise — “ That the tunnel, which is wide and lofty,, is abo;e a mile and a quarter in length ; that in cutting through hills and heights, and banking across valleys to maintain the level, not less than three millions of cubic yards of material, &c. have been removed and deposited, and that 4,000 tons of iron railway have been laid down ; that no fewer than sixty -three bridges have been built under and over the line, one of which, a viaduct, is of nine arches, and sixty feet in height ; one of four a^id two of two arches, and many of the others are of a massy and costly description.” The intermediate space between Liver- pool and Maaclies ter (a distance of thirty- six miles) cannot be travelled by the speediest coaches in less than three hours ; goods by cart or waggon at the rate of three miles an hour, and those sent by canal, which constitute four-fifths of the ton- nage, are seldom delivered in less than two days. By the rail road, goods and passen- gers will be conveyed in considerably less time than is occupied by the swiftest coaches now running. “ The facility of rail way, locomotion will approxi- mate the two towns, whilst the business of purchase and exchange will be transacted with a degree of dispatch of the first importance to commercial communities. The dealer may, if he chooses, accompany his purchases, and the manufacturer his bales, from one town to the other in an hour and a half, and return, after a ride of sixty miles, without a single sensation of fatigue. Such are the proximate advantages of the rail way ; but others will be called into existence that embrace a wider sphere of operation. The line may be considered the grand trunk seated in Liverpool, from which numerous branches will diverge over the surrounding districts, for the sup- ply of mutual wants and wealth. To the proprietors of the line is due, not only the merit of having formed the grand original line of double rail way, but of having, by 8 a judicious exercise of tlieir liberality* brought the first talent in the country to bear upon the construction and improvement of locomotive engines.” It must be a subject of constant gratula- tion to feelings, wrought up to anxious and eager contemplation, to find realized, to its fullest extent, the extremes of expectation, in defiance of numerous discouraging cir- cumstances. In the progress of excavation, levelling, reduction of embankments, filling up hol- lows, vallies, and the varied labours of forming the line, much skill and ingenuity have been called forth. The fossil remains of Antedeluvian tribes of vegetable and ani- mal matter have been exposed to the keen eye of the antiquary and the geologist, whilst an immense stock of operative expe- rience has been added to the science of the. age. Scarcely in any instance has the pow- erful and almost inexhaustible resources of the human mind been called more fully into 9 action, or produced such demonstrative proofs of its triumph over the world of matter ; and the consummation furnishes an example of successful enterprize that will not only give rise to similar undertakings in other parts of the country, but may influ- ence, in an uncommon degree, the future destinies of the civilized world. SKETCH OF THE RAILWAY From the Liverpool to the Manchester Station , * e The station at Liverpool may be said to commence at the Company’s Yard in Wapping, a short distance from the north end of the Queen’s Dock, and extending 1 , in one part, to Crosbie Street, from which also it has en- trance gates ; here ample space is appropriated for the receiving and delivering of coals, and other heavy arti- cles, not liable to injury from the weather ; and for finer goods an elegant pile of warehouses is erected over the rail way, which here runs in a cutting under the surface of the land in the neighbourhood, so as to meet the mouth of the tunnel by a gently inclined plane from the Wap- ping entrance. The front and back of this range of warehouses, form the lateral boundaries of the rail way for a length of warehouses, and the floors overhead are supported by rows of handsome lofty cast iron pillars, running between the four lines of rail way here laid down. In the spacious area thus formed under the building, the fine goods will be received from and delivered to the warehouse keepers by the waggoners, by means of hatch- ways in the floors above. 11 “ Proceeding from under the warehouses, we enter an open area, walled on each side with massy stones. At the far corner on the left is a neat building designed for offices, and close to it is the entrance of a dark cavern, simply arched with brick, being* the entrance to the i Bxtut Sttmteh The strapger who first explores this ap- parently interminable arch, cannot fail to be impressed with awe and admiration; it is the most remarkable portion of the whole work, whether we consider its extent, or the danger and difficulty which attended its formation. To those who have never made a subterranean excursion, a walk or a ride through the tunnel presents matter of extra- ordinary interest and novelty, and even the practised miner must pause with satisfaction to view an excavation so perfect in its exe- cution and so remarkable in its extent. If the gas, which is introduced by lamps from the roof, be not lighted, a flambeau or se- veral candles are requisite to enable the visitor to explore with advantage this won- derful artificial cavern; for though the day B 12 light penetrates a considerable distance from its mouth, the obscurity soon thickens into total darkness, particularly at the western end, where it commences by a curve to the right. “ A few paces from the entrance, there is a huge round-topped gate, formed of frame work and upright iron rods. This ponderous portal is fixed on a centre pivot in the roof and another in the middle of the rail road, so that it is easily turned either way, and effectually closes up the vault from intruders, yet admits a free pas- sage of air. After proceeding about 270 yards in a gentle curve towards the south east, the visitor reaches the bottom of the inclined plane, the rise of which three - fourths of an inch to the yard is regularly maintained to the further end of the tunnel, at Edge Hill, a distance of 1980 yards, the whole length being ofie mile and a quarter and fifty yards. The footing is pleasant, dry, and spacious, the road being formed of sand, and the double lines of railway in the inside rising about an inch above the level, and in continuous parallel lines serve at once to direct his course, and to convey an idea of interminable distance. The tunnel was excavated in seven or eight lengths ; the first shaft was commenced in October 1826, and se- veral others were soon afterwards opened at different distances, but the main work of excavation did not begin umjtil the January following. Its width throughout fa 13 twenty- -two feet, and sixteen feet in height. The sides rise about five feet perpendicular ; the roof which they support is a correct semi -circle, and the surface of the whole, from the application of the pickaxe alone to the stone, presents a smoothnes of appearance which could only be produced by a master ley use of the instrument. About tw o-thirds of the tunnel is driven through the solid rock, and where that was found defective, owing to par- tial appearances of clay, sand, or slates, and insecure material, the same is strongly arched with brick. The manner of working through the softer materials where water w as often met with, was necessarily cautious, and in some parts was attended with difficulties of no ordi- nary nature, but which was surmounted by skill and perseverance. The cutting of the tunnel, which is from fifty to seventy feet below the unequal surface, gave rise to considerable geological speculations ; but the white wash has now concealed all that appeared remarkable or curious. The stone is chiefly red, occasionally streaked with white, some curious narrow streaks of white and red raddle (an unctuous soft stone or compact earth) are also observable between beds of rock ” On a clear day tile light may be seen at the top of the tunnel at Edge Hill from the bot- tom of the inclined plane below, a distance of above a mile. The appearance to a keen eye is that of the upper hemisphere of the moon, seen dimly through a hazy cloud, and B 2 .14 almost to a speck in the distance. •Tins feeble light gradually expands as the traveller nears it, and if the atmosphere be clear, he may venture to extinguish his torch, and proceed as though illumined by the gradual approach of day. But to form a true estimate of the splendour and magni- ficence of the tunnel, it should be visited when the gas is burning. The public curio- sity was first gratified when it was opened by the directors in the month of July last year. It was lighted by jets five yards apart, fixed from the roof throughout its whole extent. The effect was beautiful in the extreme ; — the lights nearest the specta- tor appeared a considerable distance apart; further on they approximated in the per- spective, and finally became blended into a .continuous line of flame, fading, by the easiest gradations, from a pure white to a fine red colour. The whitened roof and sides, contiguous to each light, were so strongly illuminated, that the whole vista appeared like a succession of superb arches. 15 formed through massy parallel walls, the in- tervening space being left in comparative darkness. On emerging from the tunnel, we find ourselves in the iBvm'ts at