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 .■ ■*■>■
 
 JOURNAL IN AMERICA 
 1837-1838
 
 Heariman's Historial Series Number 41
 
 JOURNAL IN AMERICA 
 
 1837-1838 
 
 by 
 
 Joshua Toulmin Smith 
 
 Edited with Introduction and Notes 
 
 by 
 
 Floyd Benjamin Streeter 
 
 Archivist, Michigan Historical Commission 
 
 Niucty-ntuc copies primed lor 
 
 CHARLES F. HEARTMAN. in Metuchen. New Jeney 
 
 Nineteen Hundred in.1 Twenty-five 
 
 ALsO,
 
 Number of ninety-nine copies 
 
 printed. 
 
 Withdrawn from Crerar Library
 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 The greater part of the information which 
 should be put before the reader is included in the 
 historical introduction. It remains here to call 
 attention to the editorial principles which have 
 been used in the preparation of the manuscript 
 for the press. As far as possible the original 
 manuscript has been produced verbatim. Where 
 it has been necessary to supply words or add 
 letters in words in order to make the meaning 
 clear the portion supplied is printed in brackets. 
 A few slight errors have not been reproduced. 
 The capitalization and punctuation In the original 
 manuscript has been followed. 
 
 I am under obligations to the Burton Historical 
 Collection of the Detroit Public Library for the 
 loan of the manuscript. I owe much to Dr. George 
 N. Fuller, Secretary of the Michigan Historical 
 Commission, for valuable help and suggestions. 
 
 Floyd B. Streeter. 
 Lansing, Michigan, 
 
 May 18, 1925. 
 
 97y, n 
 
 518589
 
 Historical Introduction 
 
 Among the English writers who visited this 
 section of the country in the early part of the 
 nineteenth century and wrote accounts of their 
 travels was Joshua Toulmin Smith, whose Journal 
 was procured by Mr. Clarence M. Burton in Lon- 
 don, England, some years ago. This Journal was 
 kept by Smith and his wife during their journey 
 from New York to Detroit in 1837 and their re- 
 turn as far as Utica in 1838. 
 
 Joshua Toulmin Smith was born at Birming- 
 ham, May 29, 1816, and was the eldest son of 
 William Hawkes Smith, an economic and educa- 
 tional reformer. A zealous student of literature 
 and philosophy, young Smith first prepared for the 
 Unitarian ministry but abandoned that vocation 
 in favor of law and at sixteen he was articled to 
 a local solicitor. Removing in 1835 to London 
 he was entered at Lincoln's Inn with a view to the 
 bar. 
 
 Meanwhile he was active with his pen. At the 
 age of seventeen he wrote an "Introduction to the 
 Latin Language," for the class at the Birming- 
 ham Mechanics' Institute and in 1836 produced a 
 work on "Philosophy among the Ancients." 
 
 In 1837 he married Martha, daughter of 
 William Jones Kendall of Wakefield and came to 
 the United States. Influenced by Harriet Martin- 
 eau's favorable account of the West they decided 
 to locate in Michigan. The removal from an en- 
 vironment of culture and refinement where they 
 enjoyed the conveniences of civilization to the
 
 frontier with its primitive mode of life was a 
 great change. They found conditions far different 
 from what they had expected. They were highly 
 disappointed. Their disappointment is recorded 
 in the Journal. 
 
 This section of the country was being conquered 
 from the wilderness at this time. The chief 
 modes of travel were by the slow-moving train, 
 the steam boat and the stage coach. The wagon 
 roads were almost impassable. The jolting which 
 this cultured Englishman and his wife were sub- 
 jected to in the stage were among the many un- 
 pleasant experiences on the frontier. Detroit was 
 a small place and had no street lights or pave- 
 ments. The cart wheels sank into the mud up to 
 the axle and cows are said to have roamed about 
 the city. At this time Michigan was beginning to 
 feel the effect of the Panic of 1837. The State 
 being newly settled and a number of elaborate 
 projects having been undertaken the people suf- 
 fered greatly from the economic crisis. Entries 
 in the Journal reflect the financial situation. 
 
 The Canadians were revolting against the 
 British government. Being a loyal British sub- 
 ject Smith strongly disapproved of the rebellion 
 and the part American sympathizers took in it. 
 
 While in Michigan Smith lectured on phren- 
 ology in Detroit and Ann Arbor. He applied for 
 the position of Professor of Mental Philosophy in 
 the University of Michigan. Because of the bad 
 financial situation and the fact that the University 
 building had not been commenced, the Board of 
 Regents decided not to make an appointment. 
 
 Smith and his wife came to Michigan with favor- 
 able impressions. However the frontier condi- 
 tions, the bad financial situation, the American 
 
 8
 
 sympathy for the Canadian revolt, the lack of 
 refinement and hospitality according to their 
 standards and other discouraging factors caused 
 a change of feeling and they left the State dis- 
 gusted. 
 
 They returned to Utica where the Journal ends. 
 Smith delivered a series of lectures fn that city 
 and later went to Boston where he lectured on 
 phrenology and philosophy. 
 
 In 1839 he published "The Discovery of America 
 by the Northmen in the Tenth Century," and 
 wrote several minor publications. In 1842 he re- 
 turned to England, settled at Highgate near Lon- 
 don, resumed his legal studies and was called to 
 the bar in 1849. 
 
 Beginning his literary career early in life Smith 
 was a very active writer and produced, in addi- 
 tion to the works mentioned, a number of volumes 
 on legal, historical and scientific subjects. A 
 full account of his works is to be found in the 
 Dictionary of National Biography. 
 
 He declined an invitation to stand as candidate 
 for Parliament for Sheffield in 1852. In 1854, 
 with others, he formed the Anti-Centralization 
 Union and wrote the thirteen papers issued dur- 
 ing its existence. Three years later he estab- 
 lished the "Parliamentary Remembrancer," a 
 weekly record of action in Parliament with his- 
 torical commentaries and illustrations. The work 
 on this and his practice at the parliamentary bar 
 broke down his health. He was drowned while 
 bathing at Lancing, Sussex, April 28, 1869. 
 
 This Journal up to our arrival at Detroit was 
 written on loose sheets and copied into this book 
 Jany 1st 1838. 
 
 Left 1 England [via] "South America" Barstow 
 
 J The first part of the Journal is in Mrs. Smith's hand- 
 writing. 
 
 9
 
 Capt. 16 Agt 1837. Arrived at N. York after a 
 favourable passage of 30 days at ^ 10 A M 15 
 Sept 1837. First impressions of the city more 
 favourable than anticipated. Surprised at ap- 
 pearance of hotels. Shown into a large & hand- 
 some appartment in American Hotel a portion of 
 which was divided off for a bed-room but in such 
 a manner as not to offend the eye: the partition 
 only extended half way up the wall & thus leaving 
 plenty of room for circulation of air. Attend- 
 ance during whole time excellent & attentive. 
 Particularly struck by civility (not servility) of 
 all attendants in Hotel & elsewhere. Amazed at 
 quality & variety of dishes brought to table at all 
 meals. Would much have preferred a single plain 
 joint & simpler bread. — New York a fine city. — 
 City Hall handsome building but bad taste to 
 have foundation red granite & rest white marble 
 — has an imposing effect. — Noticed particularly 
 "Lafayette Terrace." Broadway greatly exagger- 
 ated in general description. Great drawback to 
 the health & comfort of N. York is its distance 
 from & want of country walks — Much stuck by 
 appearance of women, waists like wasps. All de- 
 formed & unhealthy looking. All gent[leme]n to 
 whom introduced remarkably kind attentive & 
 obliging. Much pleased by kind & friendly feel- 
 ing. Delighted with Dr. Follen— 
 
 Left N. York Tuesday 26 Sept [via] Steamboat 
 for Albany. Steamboat ill constructed & ill ar- 
 ranged. Not allow man & wife to walk down 
 stairs together. How absurd! Must arise from 
 young state of society & false notions of courtesey 
 — exceedingly unpleasant & must give way to 
 more generous feelings as society progresses. N. 
 
 10
 
 B. Americans possess singular courtesey to Ladies 
 —exemplified in that M. wanted a [biscuit?] to- 
 day (not feeling well enough to go down to din- 
 ner) & when I asked Captain to let me have some 
 for her (I offering to pay) he refused unless she 
 would come down to dine tho I told him she could 
 not ! ! Courtesey this ! ! The scenery of the Hud- 
 son fine during the first 30 or 40 miles particularly 
 about West Point but in general nothing particu- 
 lar. Wants the bright gleams of sunshine & then 
 it would be something. Were much amused at 
 the names given to places — Athens for instance 
 is a poor hamlet of about 100 wood cottages. 
 
 Reached Albany at 7 o'clock. Congress Hall 
 pleasant Hotel nice rooms — great civility — 
 Charges not so high as at N. York where we paid 
 88 dollars for 10 days stay. 
 
 Arrived at Utica 27th by Railroad from Albany 
 distance about 100 miles. 6 hours & y 2 on Journey 
 — that is 15 miles an hour while the Liverpool 
 & Birmingham performs the same distance in 4*/ 2 
 hours. Railroad laid on wood — very shaky — 
 dreadfully noisy & very unpleasant on account of 
 sparks from engine — this arises from the fuel 
 being wood instead of coal & must be remedied 
 with all its inconveniences — The railway is pre- 
 ferable to common stage. The country of the 
 Mohawk Valley is very beautiful. We had a rainy 
 day so that we could only see it under great dis- 
 advantages. Still its beauty was evident — Utica 
 is a pretty city — Many streets very pretty having 
 trees on each side & being broad & nicely paved 
 — sad rainy weather while there & saw the first 
 walking [House?] 
 
 29th From Utica to Auburn by stage our first 
 travel in this vehicle. Very different from an 
 English stage. The carriage holds 6 (professedly) 
 
 11
 
 but they take any number 2 back & front & 2 on a 
 seat slung in the middle. This is not nearly so 
 commodious & convenient as a French Diligence 
 Roads horrid 75 miles distance & 12 hours on 
 road — The roads are left when once made to 
 nature alone & are consequently dreadful espe- 
 cially in wet weather such as we had. While at 
 Auburn visited the state prison there & were very 
 much pleased by the arrangements. There are 
 complete departments of almost every trade & the 
 opperations of each are carried on to the fullest 
 & most perfect extent. There were in the prison 
 about 600 prisoners & it was about to be enlarged 
 to twice its present size : the whole establishment 
 covers 5 acres of ground. We saw the prisoners 
 going to dinner — 'Twas a most curious sight they 
 walked one behind another in companies. One 
 bad arrangement is conspicuous, they are made 
 to return to work immediately after meals. This 
 must have a very bad effect upon digestive func- 
 tions & of course tend to injure the health. The 
 system of silence I think is bad. It can have little 
 practical good & must do an immensity of harm 
 It seems to me that it must often terminate in in- 
 sanity for the thoughts forbidden utterance will 
 turn morbidly upon themselves & the result must 
 be obvious. Upon the whole that spirit of warm 
 benevolence does not breath through the establish- 
 ment which flows through every part of the 
 asylum of Hanwell. Tell me not these are crimi- 
 nals, the others lunatics. Each is confined on 
 account of some erroneous training of the mental 
 faculties which require to be corrected & each 
 should be treated as a moral patient with kindness 
 & not suspicion, & yet alas! suspicion with its 
 hateful blast taints every Avenue of the Auburn 
 establishment. Look at the innumerable peep 
 
 12
 
 holes for confirmation of this assertion and there 
 is no tone of benevolence in any of its superin- 
 tendents but rather of force and scorn. All the 
 prisoners without exception look sallow & wan. 
 
 We determined to shake off the gloom of the 
 morning which was very wet by a walk in spite 
 of the rain which cleared up, & after trying to 
 make a dinner of sundry good things spoiled, viz 
 potatoes underdone & chicken imtrussed and 
 swimming in butter merely melted, devouring 18 
 peaches we set off and found the village rather 
 pretty — houses prettiest most simple & comfort- 
 able of any we have hitherto seen. — The sky hav- 
 ing cleared off we had the benefit of a bright sun 
 light & remarked that the neighbouring scenery 
 was very sweet — The Autumnal tints are much 
 more brilliant than in England, some of the reds 
 are quite carmine & the yellows very bright — Had 
 our journey from Utica been made in sunshine 
 we must then have forgotten in the beauties of 
 the landscape the dreadful jolting which was be- 
 yond description — as we progress westward we 
 perceive strong symptoms of our approaches to 
 barbarism. At Utica we were barely attended to 
 & here our Host's son was kind enough voluntarily 
 to come and pick his teeth, supported by the 
 mantle piece, while he was answering our ques- 
 tions as to roads &c, in a disagreeably independ- 
 ent manner. Toulmin acquitted himself during 
 the parlance with great self government & credit 
 to himself, while I, poor foolish I, felt ready to 
 burst. We do not at all wonder at what is said 
 respecting manners &c — Whoever visits America 
 must carefully avoid Tea & Coffee — Every one 
 asks in the stage whence you come & whither 
 going. 
 
 Oct 1. This was a fine morning so at 5 o'clock 
 
 13
 
 we put ourselves into a stage for Rochester (The 
 motion of these stages is horrific. Tis like the 
 violent pitching of a vessel when there is a strong 
 wind a head, & the Coachee sits aloft mindful of 
 his horses & apparently tmmindful of the vehicle 
 at his heels, for bang he goes, over rutt, puddle, 
 or stone each as nothing in his sight.) We were 
 much pleased with the small lakes Cana[n]da[i]- 
 gua & Geneva. The town of Geneva is beautifully 
 situated, & the distant views of it reminded us 
 much of English scenery — Arrived at Rochester 
 late in the evening and went to bed. The house 
 was full and the chambermaid who attended on 
 us was so well mannered & handsomely dressed 
 that when I first addressed her I thought it was a 
 daughter of the Host — A white muslin gown 
 with very smart black silk apron and neatly 
 dressed hair — 
 
 Oct 2d — Were much interested in this place, 
 as it were new born of the woods : only 25 years 
 ago nothing of the present town which numbers 
 20,000 souls existed ! all was forest ! ! The Houses 
 are brick & good[;] the Hotel of the U. States 
 very good. We took a railroad hence to Batavia, 
 the road lay through much forest & land under- 
 going the process of clearing — both of us strongly 
 felt the sublime while reflecting on the past, pres- 
 ent & future, as we passed through these leafy 
 depths & entered deeply into the feelings which 
 penned "there is a pleasure in the pathless woods." 
 Remarked that the only characteristic of these 
 masses of trees which came up to our ideas of 
 forest scenery was, their great extent. No majes- 
 tic timbers such as we see in English & which we 
 feel have defied the blasts of many winters — All 
 are tall & thin, the consequences of their density 
 — Remarked that the poor wood cutters whom 
 
 14
 
 we passed on our route looked somewhat like what 
 Frankenstein must have done, when his monster 
 first arose: they stared with visible emotion at 
 the monster (our train) they had made. This 
 was the first unlucky day we have yet had — Lost 
 our Carpet Bag containing all our body linen — 
 Toulmin thought he was going to die. Frightful 
 shower of rain which wet me through — Dined at 
 Lockport & then went to examine the curious 
 locks which gives name to the place — there are 
 two sets of 5 successive locks. 
 
 In the year 1812 the spot whereon now stands 
 the city of Rochester, a city containing a popula- 
 tion of 20,000 individu[a]ls was the centre of a 
 vast forest which the foot of civilized man had 
 never traversed — Behold now the difference — this 
 is indeed "progress westward" — The recent origin 
 of the place is conspicuous on all sides in the con- 
 dition of the land — Everywhere the half burnt 
 stumps of the trees not the plain or the drear 
 forest itself over spreads the whole surface of the 
 soil. It is curious & to a reflecting mind must give 
 origin to a long train of ideas — to consider when 
 passing along the way in the railway carriages, 
 that here we are thus in active employment of 
 that which may be considered as the very highest 
 exponent of what is called civilization — i e loco- 
 motive steam carriages — in the very midst & 
 surrounded close on all sides (for the forest comes 
 close to the edge of the line for several miles) by 
 the mighty boundless forest, planted by the hand 
 of nature only and which the foot of man has 
 never traversed — Here is the most striking anti- 
 thesis of Art & Nature which can perhaps be wit- 
 nessed — We noticed as we passed a new method 
 here employed of destroying the trees in order to 
 clear the land, formerly we had observed they 
 
 15
 
 were burnt up — here we saw whole districts 
 covered with trees but all dead, for acres in extent 
 & we saw that every dead tree had a ring cut 
 near the root through the bark — the method is 
 certainly effectual and it had a most curious effect, 
 thus to see forests of dead trees — We arrived at 
 Batavia about 11 & then immediately [went] to 
 Lockport where we remained all night — Next 
 morning we proceeded to Niagara by stage, under- 
 standing the route taken by this vehicle was more 
 interesting than the Railway — the country was 
 very fine — we saw today the most extended mass 
 of forest we had yet seen — From a high point of 
 the mountain ridge we looked down towards Lake 
 Ontario & then we saw as it were an ocean of 
 living leaf. It extended far as the horizon before 
 us & on either side as far as the eye could reach, 
 & an elevated position gave us a greater command 
 of the distance than ordinary — It was very fine 
 sublime. There was more diversity in the forest 
 scenery this day than usual & as we penetrated 
 its depths in the stage, we were more struck than 
 ever, with its sublime effect. We passed through 
 an Indian Village of the tribe of Tuscaroras — saw 
 many of the inhabitants and observed their huts 
 covered with bark roofs — differing thus much 
 from those of the whites. Saw Brock's monument 
 & had a fine & distant view of the Falls of Niagara 
 — Ah! this distant glimpse was sublime in the 
 extreme & gave a just foretaste of what a nearer 
 view would disclose. We approached Niagara & 
 hastened as speedily as possible to the side of the 
 Aver. Shall the description be attempted or shall 
 we rather say with Fanny Butler "Oh God what 
 a sight!" 
 
 Long shall memory cling to the recollection of 
 our 1st day spent at the Niagara Falls Oct 4th 
 
 16
 
 1837 — A glorious day — bright sun — frosty crisp 
 air — & scenery sublime ! Oh ! life has indeed been 
 worth the having, fresh youthful life a blessing, a 
 happiness for which we both felt grateful to the 
 originator of so much beauty. It struck me today 
 that a visit to this place, on such a day as this 
 would be an effectual cure for all those unhealthy 
 souls whose minds cramped by bigotry or ignor- 
 ance, cause them to look upon Nature, & her 
 works, as a prey to sin & under its ban. Oh ! let 
 
 over 
 such people but once stand upon these precipices, 
 contemplate the grandeur of these falling waters, 
 follow the curling foam & spray glistening in the 
 sunbeams, drink in the beauty of the contrasting 
 Autumnal tints — and they must indeed be callous 
 if they do not open within them a well spring of 
 feeling — happiness. 
 
 Ah ! sweet Goat Island ! And ye tembling waters 
 which wash its sides, wash on, on, on for years 
 yet so that thousands yet may know your charms, 
 & feel through thy means the visible beauty of a 
 bounteous God — On this day we took with us some 
 little of the substantial aliment which nature's 
 necessities require and satisfied our hunger while 
 sitting on the rocky summits of the Falls and 
 snatched from the roaring torrents just rushing 
 down to add fresh diamonds to the cataract be- 
 neath, some pure sweet classic drops to slake our 
 thirst. We made this day, each 3 sketches of the 
 Falls from 3 difft points of view. A man passing 
 expressed a wish to have one of T's — & offered 
 him money but, I saying he only drew for pleasure 
 presented him with one of his sketches for which 
 he received a beautiful rosy cheeked apple & a 
 friendly shake of the hand! 
 
 The following morning — the weather being 
 
 17
 
 very unfavourable for remaining longer at N. we 
 departed at y 2 past one by Railway for Buffalo 
 where we arrived at y 2 past 3 & duly took up our 
 quarters at the Eagle — 
 
 Augst 6th Walked about Buffalo in order to 
 discover the various beauties of the place — Upon 
 the whole pleased with it. This too is another 
 wonderful place. In 1818 it contained one house, 
 now contains [we] were told, 20,000 inhabitants. 
 Saw many good houses as good as first rate houses 
 in England, both as to size & stile but 2 we after- 
 • wards learned that their construction & internal 
 arrangements are very inferior — all here is for 
 show. 
 
 On 7th took our places by steamer ship "Colum- 
 bus" for Detroit: during voyage coasted along 
 shore all the way — rather different to what we 
 had been told in New York viz. that there were 
 no ports along the Lake — Lake Erie a fine lake — 
 the two days of our voyage very fine — Reached 
 Detroit about 4 o'clock on Monday morning the 
 9th. Here then at length we are in the "Far West" 
 as it called— 750 miles W. of N. York. 4,000 off 
 dear Old England. Having passed in our way 
 through Albany, Manheim, Utica, Sullivan, Man- 
 lius, Syracuse, Jordan, Marcellus, Auburn, Seneca, 
 Waterloo, Geneva, Cana[n]daigua, Lima, Cale- 
 donia, Palmyra, Rochester, Batavia, Byron & 
 near Athens, Troy, Amsterdam, Rome, Lenox, 
 Lyons, Moscow, Pembrock, Clarence & Homer!! 
 Strange medley of names — 
 
 In the course of our travels we have observed 
 that the people here always use nautical terms in 
 traveling — They describe a situation by the com- 
 pass "talk of the voyage" of being "all aboard" 
 &c this doubtless arises from all their ancestors 
 
 *The remainder of this entry is in Smith's handwriting. 
 
 18
 
 having come hither over ocean & having in the 
 voyage acquired nautical language. We observed 
 many constant expressions — always commencing 
 answering a question with the word "Well" — al- 
 ways if not catching your meaning say "how" 
 instead of the English "aye" &c &c. The spitting 
 is abominable — the mode of living at Hotels very 
 uncomfortable — the public tables much against our 
 taste — cooking horrid. Everything is saturated 
 with butter — To the public mode of living we how- 
 ever doubtless owe it that we met with such good 
 Hotels as we everywhere did. They talk of the 
 "Far West" yet the accommodation is universally 
 much better than we should meet with in many 
 country towns in England. 
 
 Detroit — Our first impressions of this place 
 were favourable. Our first day was beautifully 
 bright & clear and we walked the round with 
 much unction and real pleasure, after escaping 
 the horrors of a high pressure Steam Engine, 
 than which conveyance we could obtain no other 
 to sail up Lake Erie. / felt much surprise when 
 I was shown the Governer's house, a building 
 good enough but much inferior to several others 
 in the same street, and equally so when told that 
 tho' possessing more real power than the King 
 of England his income was not more than 2,000 
 dollars per ann — So much for feeling bred up in 
 the Old country — This man by name Mason 3 un- 
 fortunately for us just now at N. York so that 
 for the present Doctor Follen's letter must repose 
 quietly in Toulmin's pocket — We are at the Ameri- 
 can Hotel a good house but where we find fewer 
 comforts (at least in accordance with our English 
 notion) than any place we have hitherto visited — 
 
 "This was Stevens T. Mason, first Governor of the State 
 of Michigan. 
 
 19
 
 Saturday night Oct 14th A memorable night — 
 The first of our drinking tea in our own private 
 abode, followed by the divertisement of scanning 
 & adding up sundry bills for necessary furniture 
 &c paid during the course of the day — a snug little 
 parlor & bed room with a good handsome dark 
 closet & magnificent lumber room form our abode 
 for which we are to pay 7 dollars per month rent 
 14 additional dollars for attendance!! 
 
 O ! how we did enjoy this evening our tea, for 
 we could take our own time, talk over sundry 
 matters & not feel obliged to scald our throats 
 least we should be the last at table — it is just two 
 months since we sat at our own family fire side — 
 I once thought I should never live to be tired of 
 roaming but four months constant changing has 
 begun to work a change in my feelings on that 
 point — 
 
 Marketing in a strange town & country is by 
 no means an enviable employment — Some people 
 we found very civil & one amused us much by 
 telling Toulmin when he went to enquire why 
 certain articles which had been ordered had not 
 been sent, "that he'd have nothing to do with 
 him." We are going to sleep under a comforter 
 until our Blankets make their appearance, which 
 are at present at N. York & as feather pillows 
 are too dear for our purse at present a deer-hair 
 bolster is to supply their place until we have eaten 
 enough fowls to fill our pillows — I must not omit 
 one grand proof of the splendeur of our apart- 
 ments — In the two sash windows there are only 
 48 panes of glass!! 
 
 Saturday night Oct 21st Only half a dollar 
 wanting in the balance of accounts relating to 
 the expenditure of $475!! And this me thinks 
 the first weeks settlement of our house keeping 
 
 20
 
 &c &c — is very satisfactory and highly creditable 
 to two such spend thrifts as myself and my hus- 
 band ! 
 
 Another item in our account book, & which is 
 equally satisfactory is, that from the different 
 situations & conditions of the countries we have 
 traversed in our progress westward the stock in 
 hand with which we left Old England has actually 
 increased 25 per cent or a quarter of the original 
 sum!!!! this profit added to the sum of interest- 
 ing information and pleasure we have enjoyed 
 during the last four months, makes a total gain 
 of which few people would be ashamed and which 
 we think is well worth going through the matri- 
 monial ceremony to obtain — 
 
 Here it comes! "Hurra Hurra" and one runs 
 to the window with true English expectations, to 
 feast our eyes upon a crowd, numberless & noisy 
 with flags & banners waving in the air; all we 
 have for our pains is, first, a long waggon some 
 20 feet from prow to stern drawn by 4 clumsily 
 harnessed horses, and all bespattered with mud; 
 in this are seated a dozen drummers & trumpeters, 
 who with infinite skill so contrive to agitate the 
 airy medium that it is quite impossible to dis- 
 tinguish any sequence of tones, at all in accord- 
 ance with any known melody. Then follows a 
 political emblem the execution of which is well 
 worthy the rude attempts of an infant state, a 
 huge canoe or badly shapen boat mounted upon 
 wheels, whereof the sailors perform their char- 
 acters by diving and rowing the surrounding at- 
 mosphere with wooden oars: this is succeeded by 
 a stage whereof the horses are adorned with 
 trumpery flags about a foot square, and the sides 
 & seats with fine concretions of Mother earth — 
 at the tail of this succeeds another vehicle equally 
 
 21
 
 ingenious, for the accommodation of Tory voters 
 whose zeal is either asleep or questionable. These 
 with two other common carts drawn by ghostes 
 of horses & their owners in their everyday brown 
 coat, followed & surrounded by about 30 or 40 
 ragmuffin looing men & boys all of which look 
 as tho' they had escaped from some prison, formed 
 the procession which supported Governor Mason 
 in the election of Oct. 1837. O I forget two bril- 
 liant marshals whose prancing horsed [s] did their 
 best to appear grand in a drapery of blue & gold — 
 
 Novr 6th & 7th were the days of election of Gov- 
 [erno]r deputy & members of senate & assembly 
 of the State of Michigan. This was a set contest be- 
 tween the two parties Whigs & Democrats — Most 
 despicable exhibition each party made in proces- 
 sion — very little excitement but I am most aston- 
 ished & disgusted at the abominable mode in 
 which the elections are conducted. The parties 
 avow openly that they have had recourse to any 
 & every means to carry the election. I have been 
 told by one party that they themselves have sent 70 
 Irishmen to one spot by ship with order to perjure 
 themselves & vote for their party, & if when they 
 got to their destination they refused they were 
 not to be landed. After waiting there they were 
 to be shipped to some other point & to vote there 
 — By the same party I was told that when the 
 Marshal had been sent by Mason to canvass for 
 him they sent some ahead of him to tell the people 
 he was come to assist them — The tricks &c are 
 truly iniquitous. Coventry in her worst days 
 was vergin purity in comparison. This is vote by 
 ballot— Hurra for liberty & vote by Ballot ! ! ! ! 
 
 8 Jany 38 4 Much worthy of record has passed 
 before our observation since last date of Journal. 
 
 'Smith's handwriting begins here. 
 22
 
 1 ' ' > 
 
 Circumstances have prevented its entry. 
 
 We have noted often the truth of the remarks 
 so often made that go where you will hear of 
 nothing but dollars & Business. We heard on the 
 first Sunday after arrival these words from the 
 mouth of a preacher in the course of his prayer 
 "Those of you who have come up here to transact 
 your business with the Almighty &c"!! The ex- 
 traordinary number of slang phrases has at- 
 tracted much attention as well as the extraordi- 
 nary pronunciation of many common words & 
 misuse of many other words — all these are noted 
 together at the end of the volume. 
 
 We have now to note here the remarkable sway 
 which party spirit & the mere love of office has 
 here. There has been rebellion for some weeks 
 in Canada against the British Government. The 
 name of Liberty has been sounded most absurdly 
 in a cause instigated merely by a few demagogues 
 for it is admitted on all hands by those acquainted 
 with the matter that the Canadians are better off 
 than they could possibly be under self government 
 or "independ[en]t existence as separate state." 
 The word Liberty excites prejudice in the minds 
 of all these [super?] Americans & they would 
 rush to join the contest heedless of all conse- 
 quences & heedless how far they commit their 
 government bet [wee] n wh[ich] & G[reat] 
 B[ritain] treaties of peace now subsist. Several 
 hundred men have been armed & drilled here & 
 this with the actual knowledge of the executives 
 & all in authority. Even arms have been stolen 
 from the arsenals to the number of 600 stands 
 with't any precautions being taken even, as it is 
 credibly assured me, with the determined non 
 opposition of the Sheriff, U. S. Marshal & Gov- 
 [erno]r. Why is this? It is thus. The present 
 
 23
 
 
 Gov[ernors] are democrats. All the French here 
 (& they are numerous) are of that party. All 
 these have sympathies with Canada & the execu- 
 tive & others are afraid that if they did their duty 
 & opposed movements here they would lose the 
 French vote at the next election. Here is a 
 despicable motive in this glorious "republic" in- 
 fluencing men to let self interest & love of office 
 predominate over all claim of country or duty. 
 
 I actually heard a man the other day say that 
 he was proud to be carried away by feelings in 
 favour of Canadians — that is (viz interpreto) he 
 was proud that his reasoning faculties had as 
 little power as that the name alone of Liberty 
 should be sufficient to urge his conduct without 
 any regard to the justice of the application of the 
 term: & this is the way with all here — None of 
 them know the state of the case & because Liberty 
 is cried — as it has been by every tyrant & dema- 
 gogue yet who has had a purpose to gain — they 
 w[oul]d peril their own honour & country by 
 reckless folly. — 
 
 There is little of real liberty here — nothing in 
 comparison of the true spirit of liberty which 
 prevails in England — Liberty of opinion exists 
 not & without this the name of freedom is but a 
 mock word. — What is it that the despot fears in 
 fact but opinion & what is it that excites his arbi- 
 trary tyranny but opinion — Here there is no free- 
 dom of opinion. 
 
 Every day only makes us feel the more in what 
 bright comparison England stands by the side of 
 America. 
 
 Today (Jany 8) a body of 400 men have gone 
 down to Gibralter to dislodge some rebels who 
 have taken quarters there. It was only because 
 they could not absolutely avoid it that the authori- 
 
 24
 
 ties at length came forward to put an appearance 
 of observing Laws. They are gone — but they will 
 do nothing — If the rebels are there they will give 
 them time to go very likely will give them more 
 arms & provisions — Dastard villains are they all. 
 They have endangered the peace & safety of this 
 city & of the U. S. — None can tell how it may 
 end & whether this city may not be in ruins ere 
 long. — The rebels are only 15 miles off Their 
 band is composed entirely of the worthless & aban- 
 doned who have nothing to lose & all to gain & 
 who think this a good opportunity — If they fail 
 in their attack on Fort Maiden (as they must 
 from its well guarded state) they had as soon 
 turn back & sack this city as not — Our chief 
 hope is that they will be all cut to pieces. 
 
 gents 
 
 By the bye forgot to mention that folks here 
 always go about calling on New Years day on all 
 their friends — They go twos & twos or more & 
 look most absurd — It happened to be a wet day 
 this time & their Sunday best got sadly bespat- 
 tered. 
 
 13th Jany 
 
 Ah it is glorious how these villains — "loafers" 
 as the American term is — have been treated at 
 Maiden — Sadly discomfitted indeed is their con- 
 dition. Wretches to assume the sacred name of 
 liberty as the cloak of blackest villainy & murder 
 that name to commence by robbing the arsenals 
 of guns & to go on to pirate steam boats. One of 
 the boats which they stole was put under the com- 
 mand of Theller 5 — who lived next to us in Larned 
 
 "This was Dr. Edward Alexander Theller, an Irishman, 
 who was born In Canada in 1810. He came to Detroit in 
 1832 and was a wholesale grocer, practicing physician and 
 druggist. He was captured on board the schooner Anne and 
 sentenced to be hanged, but escaped to the United States. 
 In 1839-40 he was editor of the "Spirit of '76," a Detroit 
 newspaper, and later was an editor in California and super- 
 intendent of schools in San Francisco. He published a book 
 called "Canada In 1837-38." He died in California in 1859. 
 
 25
 
 St — This wretch left his wife & a large family to 
 go & fight against his native country — His fate 
 has been such as he most richly deserved. The 
 fool had command of the stolen schooner (Anne) 
 in which were placed all the stolen guns & provi- 
 sions. He sailed down opposite Maiden & there 
 out of wanton cruelty fired into the midst of the 
 women & children on the shore. — The water was 
 low & the wind drifted the vessel nearer land than 
 he intended. The British bravely sallied out & 
 waded in the water up to the side of the boat & 
 seized it thus. — The fight was desperate but the 
 brave British secured the schooner — Many of the 
 pirates were slaughtered & Theller taken pris- 
 oner & sent to Toronto where he will be hanged — 
 a punishment well deserved. The vessel had on 
 board 300 stands of arms — stolen from Detroit 
 besides several barrels of gunpowder & provisions 
 — A rich prize this & bravely won. The pirates 
 were within pistol shot — the whole body of them 
 — during this action & never offered to stir. They 
 were left by this with not more than 2 rounds 
 of cartridges. There soon was mutiny among the 
 pirates themselves & they turned off their com- 
 mander Sutherland — a fellow of most abandoned 
 character who has been editor of three most black- 
 guard papers in New York & thinks this a fine 
 opportunity to make something out of the con- 
 fusion & disturbances in Canada. The fellow be- 
 ing discarded came up to Detroit & was here very 
 properly apprehended for contravention of the 
 laws of the United States. But this is a country 
 of Democracy & is law to be of any avail in a free 
 country? Who w[ou]ld be such a tyrant as to 
 affirm such a thing. No ! the fellow has been this 
 morning brought up, as a farce, before the judge 
 for examination as to whether there is sufficient 
 
 26
 
 cause for his detention or giving bail. The proof 
 given was most complete. Not the slightest truth 
 was wanting & even the wretch himself had the 
 opportunity to declare that as long as he had a 
 nerve in his arm he would do as he had done — 
 & yet the judge was affraid to find him guilty & 
 discharged him in the face of all law & justice. 
 
 Yes this is America free America! — Let 
 America make herself free before she talks of 
 assisting Canada — Here is a judge afraid of ful- 
 filling Law. This is all of a piece with the whole 
 [solemn?] farce which has been played in this 
 fearful matter. It is much to be feared that 
 dreadful consequences may follow. This conduct 
 is as much as telling the pirates that they may go 
 & plunder all the arsenals & stores & sack burn 
 & ruin & destroy, — & none will prevent them. — 
 But what of all that — this is the land of liberty! 
 Hurra! Hurra! Down with Law, Justice, Inde- 
 pendence, & free opinion ! Liberty for ever ! 
 
 Many very many here, long for a monarchical 
 government & in that it must end — This state of 
 things cannot last. — 
 
 16th Jany Yesterday afternoon [we] went 
 over to Canada & saw & enquired a little into the 
 matter. It appears that none of the Canadians 
 have joined this rebellion. The great majority 
 of those who are attempting to plunder the 
 country (under the mockword of "patriots") are 
 Americans. The Canadians to a man are strenu- 
 ous supporters of the British Governm[en]t. They 
 have all rushed to the standard voluntarily & we 
 were informed that not a man could be compelled 
 to joint the rebels — rebels indeed they can hardly 
 be called pirates is the very proper term. The 
 language of the Canadians uniformly is, "We see 
 rather too much of Democracy on the other side 
 
 27
 
 the river to want any of it here." There are now 
 upwards of 2,500 men well armed & drilled on the 
 other side, well prepared for an attack & all hav- 
 ing something at stake all being land owners or 
 sons of landowners. — And here on this side are 
 a few of the vilest scum of creation — men having 
 nothing to lose & all to gain — these band together 
 in pirate troops with the "loafer" in chief Suther- 
 land at their head — & talk of invading the 
 country!! — a complete invasion certainly 'twould 
 be for not a man on the other side but detests & 
 scorns their vile hypocritical "patriot" cant. — All 
 on the other side wish that they wo[uld] go — & 
 would that they were there — They would soon be 
 cut to pieces & there would be an end to all traiter- 
 ous schemes which it is evident they are deter- 
 mined (from Sutherland's own words) to keep up 
 as long as profitable. That man was certainly 
 borne for the gallows. [He will?] have it yet. — 
 Abandoned wretch wishing to repair his ruined 
 fortune by bringing a whole people into trouble 
 by piratical attempts at plunder — careless what 
 responsibility he heaps upon the head of his 
 country. 
 
 Wednesday 6 Jany 24th Last night Toulmin 
 gave the first of Ten Lectures on Phrenology in 
 this City of Detroit and as the information was 
 communicated gratis the room was quite full : to- 
 night however will try their zeal. Amongst the 
 numerous remarks that were made on him after- 
 wards was the following truly national one, by 
 a young Irishman "0 Mr. Smith is a nice man & 
 if he gets into trouble I will fight for him"! — 
 Toulmin commanded the attention of the audience 
 so well that they seemed almost to forget some 
 of their odious & most disgusting practices & 
 
 "Mrs. Smith's handwriting 1 begins with this entry. 
 
 28
 
 which cannot be indulged in without making a 
 noise Well subscribers at first number 25 but 
 afterwards increased to 30 regular ones with gen- 
 erally about 9 or 10 "droppers in" This is some 
 of the first fruits of American promises which 
 experience has now taught us to estimate as not 
 worth a rusk! — perhaps I should rather change 
 the term America for Michigan, we have not seen 
 enough of the States yet to give such a sweeping 
 condemnation — T's lectures I think are highly 
 creditable, They are well digested, powerful ex- 
 ceedingly interesting & abounding in facts which 
 arrest the attention of every candid mind. 
 Amongst his regular attendants were School- 
 craft, 7 Farnsworth, Fletcher, Houghton & Pitcher 
 all men of education & strong mental powers. 
 
 Saturday night Feby 17th This is the close of 
 a somewhat eventful day — The Detroit Regeants 
 have ere this decided in a manner upon our resi- 
 dence or non residence in this State 8 & the Prime 
 Minister of our Domestic economy has taken her 
 final departure, rather than return home from a 
 Christening of one of her friends, at the reason- 
 able hour of ten o'clock The morning's sun rose 
 & smiled upon us brightly this morning & we were 
 all in peace & good will[;] its setting saw us all 
 equally obstinate in the persuit of our own oppos- 
 ing determinations — I record this incident as the 
 beginning of our troubles with servants in this 
 free & independent Land!! 
 
 O Detroit what a barren and inhospitable City 
 
 'Schoolcraft says: "This gentleman lectured acceptably 
 . . . " "Personal Memoirs," p. 594. 
 
 •Smith applied for the Professorship of Mental Philosophy 
 in the University of Michigan. At the February meeting of 
 the Board of Regents of the University the matter was re- 
 ferred to the Committee on the Number of Professors. At 
 the March meeting this committee reported "that the pres- 
 ent situation of the University forbids them from recom- 
 mending at this time a selection." 
 
 29
 
 L.,11. II I ■«&..! I 
 
 thou art! Thou shalt sit enthroned as the Queen 
 of Muddy Streets, through which do saunter thy 
 gaunt lean cows, which after feeding upon what 
 thy generous inhabitants cast from their kitchen 
 doors are killed and quartered to be cooked — but 
 to be eaten — aye theres the rub — that is fre- 
 quently an impossibility. Gristle, skin & bone, 
 pervade the very marrow & boiled, baked, or fried 
 ones teeth suffer in the attack. Nor are thy 
 people much more inviting they call and stare, 
 profess and then are seen no more One family 
 alone has bid us kindly welcome to this place, & 
 this we will not forget — Our peek into the fash- 
 ionable world last week at Mr. Brush's was by 
 no means enticing & we now only grow more & 
 more impatient of our sojourn here — To settle in 
 this place would in my opinion be almost as far 
 from heaven as Lucifer was after his 9 days fall — 
 
 We have this day spent 20 dollars of Wild Cat 
 money 9 taken at the Lectures — spent it because 
 we could not keep it for next week it may all be 
 bad — a pleasant state of things! however we 
 have secured a very nice addition to our Library 
 — The terms Wild Cat & Red Dog are given to 
 monies whose credit is going or gone. The delec- 
 table Maid who left us so hastily the other night 
 is married — we were fortunate in being freed 
 from her Money, Matrimony & Inhospitality 
 Ye & Detroit shall all go together ! ! ! 
 
 March 22. The Regents have fixed our doom. 
 Their reply sent in a most unformal way, was to 
 the effect that in consequence of the monetary 
 
 9 Michigan suffered greatly from bank failures In the late 
 thirties. In 1837 there were sixteen chartered banks in the 
 State. In March of that year the "general" or "free" bank- 
 ing law was passed under which forty-nine banks, popularly 
 known as "wild Cat banks" were organized, forty of which 
 went into operation. By December 1839 only three chartered 
 banks with one branch bank and four of those organized 
 under the general law remained in operation. 
 
 30
 
 condition of the State the affairs of the University 
 were at a stand and consequently no appoint- 
 ments could be made at present. Other candi- 
 dates appeared to have received similar answers 
 — Is this failure good or bad for us? time will 
 show — A settled home with 2000$ per ann. was 
 certainly some what tempting but then we must 
 have lived in this odious country & among this 
 people which are only worthy of it — Now we have 
 the hopes tho quite in the perspective that some- 
 thing more agreeably located will turn up. Our 
 plan now, is, to leave this place as soon as we can, 
 go direct to Utica & there to make our head 
 quarters for a few months Meantime Toulmin 
 will lecture at the surrounding places — &c &c — 
 We had an invitation to a gay route (200) a[t] 
 Mrs. Lamed but ill health & il humour at the 
 place prevented our going — I must say this Mrs. 
 L. is the most Lady like person I have seen here — 
 Poor Mrs. Stewart has affronted Toulmin by giv- 
 ing up her own Old Country, entirely — she is a 
 clever woman (a Mrs. Jackson of wakef[iel]d) 
 but she is too much of a Saint — Tis a pity here 
 the women are occupied every evening with their 
 Bible — prayer — and sewing meeting — to one of 
 the last named I am going for the first time, to- 
 night Toulmin being out — at Ann Arbor. 
 
 19th 10 of this March I went to Ann Arbor for 
 the purpose of delivering there a course of Lec- 
 tures on Phrenology : induced thereto by the posi- 
 tive assurance rec [eive] d on the previous Tuesday 
 on a flying visit that I sho'd undoubtedly have an 
 audience of 40 or 50. This night I deliv[ere]d my 
 first lecture gratis — of course audience pretty full 
 but 2d night brought but 7 out of 40 or 50 & sub- 
 sequent nights but little better. Here is another 
 
 "Smith's handwriting begins here. 
 31
 
 instance of faith to be placed in American prom- 
 ises. The country of Ann Arbor is however far 
 superior to this of odious Detroit It is healthy 
 wh [ere] as Detroit is the vilest place on creation's 
 surface for every inducement to disease — with no 
 possibility of exercise. 
 
 As far as our experience of American people 
 has hitherto gone this is the result of our observa- 
 tion There prevails a universal deficiency of con- 
 scientiousness. This leads them to neglect sys- 
 tematically every promise made — which promises 
 are most abundant for the large size of appro- 
 bat [iveness ?] . It used to be a saying in many 
 European cities "by the faith of an Englishman" 
 to signify unquestionable faith. Certainly "the 
 faith of an American" will become a bye-word for 
 zmtrustworthiness & faithlessness. Another grand 
 trait is the deficiency of Adhesiveness. There is no 
 social intercourse in America. It is a thing totally 
 unknown. The men herd together & seek after 
 sensual pleasures — the women are neglected — & 
 consequently seek refuge in herding likewise to- 
 gether & in concoct [in] g cant & humbug into the 
 strangest compound of abominable sentimental- 
 ism & affectation & nonsense that ever disgraced 
 society. The women in America are the most 
 dependent creatures in the universe. They have 
 not in truth half so much energy or independence 
 as the women in an Oriental seraglio & not more 
 intellect. Theirs is indeed existence & not life — 
 It is sad & sicken [in] g to behold them. 
 
 But independence is a thing unknown in the 
 U. S. No man appears here to dare to express 
 an honest & open opinion if it differs in any man- 
 ner from that of the multitude. Oh England! 
 May never American institutions reach thy loved 
 
 32
 
 & honoured shores if such be the consequences 
 which follow in their train. 
 
 April 4th 11 On the other side I have pasted in 
 a column from the "Detroit Daily Advertiser" of 
 this day (Wednesday Ap. 4, 1838) as a specimen 
 of the dignified & statesmanlike proceedings in 
 the Legislative Hall of this "sovereign, free & 
 independent state" of Michigan. This is but a 
 fair sample of the proceedings of each day. 
 
 From Detroit Daily Advertiser of Wednesday 
 4 April 1838 
 
 BANK OF MICHIGAN. 
 
 In the House of Representatives, on Monday, 
 Mr. J. M. Howard moved the appointment of a 
 committee of five to investigate the affairs of the 
 Bank of Michigan in pursuance of the petition of 
 the President and Directors thereof, and report 
 as soon as practicable. Mr. Henry Smith moved 
 that the committee be elected by ballot. Lost. Mr. 
 Smith moved to lay the motion on the table. Lost. 
 Mr. Wakefield, seconded by Mr. Smith, moved an 
 adjournment. Lost. A call of the House was 
 moved and refused. The question recurring on 
 the resolution, Mr. J. M. Howard, in urging its 
 adoption, took occasion to read an extract from 
 the Morning Post of that morning, reiterating the 
 charge made by Gov. Mason. Mr. Montgomery 
 tho't it not in order for the gentleman to read 
 from that newspaper. Mr. Gidley thought it 
 should never be read by any man. The Speaker 
 decided it was in order. Mr. Howard finished 
 reading the paragraph, and asked if, under the 
 circumstances, an investigation was not an act 
 of justice to the bank and its bill holders? Mr. 
 
 "Mrs. Smith's handwriting begins here. 
 33
 
 Ball said he could now perceive the object of the 
 resolution. It was connected with the city elec- 
 tion. What had that House to do with charter 
 elections? Further, it had nothing to do with 
 Gov. Mason's casual remarks unless made in his 
 official capacity. He thought the matter ought 
 not to be considered. Mr. Montgomery read the 
 balance of the editorial article of the Post, that 
 relating to the politics of certain officers of char- 
 tered and wild cat banks. Mr. Howard stated that 
 the assertions therein made were not true. Mr. 
 Montgomery remarked, that Gov. Mason, when he 
 made the statements relative to the bank was talk- 
 ing politics with Roberts; that they were not 
 proper subjects of investigation. (At this stage, 
 members began to leave the House.) Mr. Buck- 
 bee said this was no time for an investigation. 
 (He was proceeding when the speaker announced 
 that a quorum were not present.) A call of the 
 House was ordered, when but 21 members ans- 
 wered to their names. There not being a quorum, 
 the House adjourned. 
 
 AFTERNOON SESSION. 
 
 The subject was again taken up. Mr. Buckbee 
 moved to amend the resolution so that the report 
 of the committee should be published in the state 
 paper as soon as convenient. Mr. Cook moved 
 that the committee be instructed to report within 
 three days. He supported this motion at some 
 length. Mr. Buckbee replied and stigmatised the 
 attempt to get the resolution through as an elec- 
 tioneering effort. Mr. Buel followed on the same 
 side. He said he was in favor of an investigation, 
 but would never consent to base it on the Gov- 
 ernor's private conversation. Besides, the com- 
 
 34
 
 mittee could not report in three days. Mr. Cook 
 explained how the petition came to be sent in. A 
 handbill had the day before been circulated by 
 the foes of the bank, charging it with insolvency. 
 This conversation of Gov. Mason had connected 
 him, whether properly or not he could not say, 
 with the handbill charges. For that reason, the 
 affidavit was attached to the petition as the basis 
 of legislative action. Mr. Henry Smith opposed 
 the amendment. The question being taken, it was 
 negatived — yeas 17, nays 19. Mr. Buckbee's amend- 
 ment was then negatived — yeas 16, nays 20. Mr. 
 Buckbee moved to give the committee power to 
 send for persons and papers, also to examine wit- 
 nesses under oath. Mr. Henry Smith moved a 
 substitute so far as to require the committee to 
 report to the next Legislature and publish the 
 facts, as soon as ascertained, in the state paper. 
 The motion was supported by Messrs. Smith and 
 Lancaster, and opposed by Messrs. J. M. Howard 
 and Cook. The substitute was lost, yeas 18, nays 
 18. Mr. Buckbee's amendment was then accepted 
 by the mover of the original resolution. Mr. B. 
 then moved that the committee publish the result 
 of their investigation in the state paper within 
 30 days. Messrs. Smith and Lancaster opposed 
 the motion. Mr. Butler moved 10 days. A motion 
 here made to lay the resolution and amendments 
 on the table was lost, yeas 18, nays 19. Mr. H. 
 Smith moved a call of the House. Lost. Mr. But- 
 ler's motion was then negatived, also Mr. Buck- 
 bee's. Mr. H. Smith moved to refer the whole 
 subject to the committee on banks and incorpora- 
 tions. Mr. Buckbee moved to amend by referring 
 it to the committee on Indian affairs. Mr. J. M. 
 Howard moved to add — "together with the Execu- 
 tive." All lost. Mr. H. Smith moved to appoint 
 
 35
 
 a committee of one. Not supported. The ques- 
 tion recurring on the resolution as amended, Mr. 
 Lancaster opposed it. Mr. Buckbee moved a call 
 of the House. Not supported. Mr. Buel moved 
 to insert a clause making the investigation at the 
 expense of the bank. Mr. Buckbee again moved a 
 call of the House. Lost. Mr. Bud's motion was 
 then negatived, yeas 11, nays 25. Mr. Buckbee 
 moved to include all other chartered banks which 
 had been slandered by the Executive. Mr. Buel 
 moved a substitute, that the committee report to 
 the house if in season, otherwise to publish in the 
 state paper. Mr. J. M. Howard moved to add — 
 "in pursuance of the prayer of the petitioners." 
 Mr. Cook moved the previous question. Mr. H. 
 Smith protested against this unfair mode of legis- 
 lation, and hoped the gentleman would withdraw 
 his motion. Mr. Cook replied, that the gentleman 
 from Monroe (Mr. Smith) had himself moved the 
 previous question several times during the session, 
 and had refused to withdraw at his request, and 
 was therefore the last man that ought to com- 
 plain. He should not withdraw his motion. It 
 was the first time he had moved it during the 
 session. The House refused to take the previous 
 question, yeas 18, nays 19. Mr. J. M. Howard's 
 amendment was then carried, yeas 22, nays 15. 
 Mr. Buel's amendment as ordered was then 
 adopted. The question recurring on Mr. Howard's 
 resolution as amended, it was decided in the 
 affirmative, yeas 22, nays 16. Mr. Buel remarked, 
 that he voted for the resolution, not because he 
 was in favor of it, but with an expectation of 
 hereafter moving a reconsideration. 
 
 The Chair then appointed Messrs. Cook, Buel, 
 Buckbee, Butler and H. Smith as the investigat- 
 ing committee. 
 
 36
 
 Below 12 is given a specimen of Michigan money 
 a "shin plaster" — In the condition it is here it was 
 reed & such is the general current money 
 
 [The specimen of Michigan money is pasted 
 in the Journal at this point.] 
 
 April 23rd — A happy day this in the annals of 
 our history for on this day we have left — we trust 
 for ever — the City of Detroit & the shores of 
 Michigan — Hateful disgusting country how wast 
 thou misrepresented when it was told to me that 
 thy soil was fruitful, thy climate healthy, thy in- 
 habitants intelligent & hospitable. We have re- 
 sided within the circuit of thy capitol for 7 
 months — came with favourable impressions, with 
 numerous letters of introduction & with every 
 disposition to make the best of every thing. What 
 has been the result ? Out of 8 letters of introduc- 
 tion only one has drawn any notice — All with 
 whom we have become acquainted we have found 
 selfish inhospitable & with no one idea save money 
 — Thy soil is unproductive even of the neces- 
 saries of life — thy climate is most unhealthy. De- 
 voted to speculation & gambling are all thy in- 
 habitants & there exists not such thing as a circu- 
 lating medium within thy bounds even for the 
 common purposes of life — A parcel of rags — 
 justly termed "Wild Cat" & "Red Dog"— r[a]gs 
 issued by bankrupts & gamblers to impose on the 
 new — are all the circulating medium existing & it 
 need hardly be said do not circulate for none will 
 trust them — Thy whole character can only justly 
 be summed up by saying that physically, morally 
 & intellectually Detroit is the meanest & the vilest 
 spot upon creation's surface. 
 
 One characteristic of Detroit should have been 
 noticed before — its mud. It is the common topic 
 
 "This entry in Smith's handwriting. 
 
 37
 
 of conversation & exceeds credibility — After a 
 little rain the cart wheels sink literally up to the 
 axle-tree in the filth — No single street in the town 
 is paved or lighted — This of course adds to the 
 other numerous advantages of which the city has 
 to boast. 
 
 As an illustration of the excessive low grade 
 of morality of the inhabitants of this place it may 
 be mentioned that one who had professed to be 
 a zealous advocate of Phren[olog]y & to have 
 exerted himself at my lectures & for whom I had 
 done several drawings upon his very urgent & 
 continued teasing became vexed that I would not 
 (being busy & disinclined) draw him an addi- 
 tional head of Socrates. He straightway went to 
 a magistrate — made oath that I owed him $100 
 & took out a summons. It need not be said that 
 there was not the shadow of a claim or pretence 
 for a claim for one farthing against me — He 
 simply thought that by costs he would frighten 
 me into dr[aw]ing Socrates. I surprised him 
 much by instantly taking a man to whom he owed 
 money & whom I knew he wanted to cheat & get- 
 ting him in presence of the other to demand 
 numerous [?] [Jacobs?] became himself alarmed 
 & knowing he had no cause offered to drop suit & 
 pay costs if I wo'd give him a head of Socrates ! ! 
 Here is modern Philosophy! This is however a 
 fair specimen of the character of the people. 
 
 I shall 13 only add as my testimony to the truth 
 of the above that I am right thankful to be at this 
 moment breathing the air at Buffalo on our re- 
 turn to the land of civilization. We arrived here 
 this Morn [in] g (April 25th) after a most tempes- 
 tuous tossing upon Lake Erie Our Boat was the 
 
 13 Mrs. Smith wrote this paragraph. Her husband continues 
 in the next entry. 
 
 38
 
 most comfortable one we have ever been in & has 
 the reputation of being the swiftest on the Lake 
 but instead of a 24 hour passage we were obliged 
 to put into port twice so that 50 hours only saw 
 us to this place. On this our 2d visit to this place 
 we discover that it is much more of a place than 
 we considered it last Fall — it is much superior to 
 Detroit in as much as the most of its buildings 
 are of brick & its streets paved. We also dis- 
 covered a Unitarian Church! Only think we are 
 now treading ground made classic by the events 
 of the late Canadian War — Buffalo has been the 
 scene of much excitement but it is once again 
 peaceable. 
 
 26th 11 o'clock A. M. Again at Niagara! And 
 what a day — Dark & foul its appearance in the 
 morning; in the afternoon, as we arrived, clear 
 bright & promising, & then again just as we were 
 most anxiously desiring that it should be fair in 
 order to complete a much wished sketch clouding 
 over & pouring again in torrents of thick rain. 
 
 Niagara seems to roar on this occasion with a 
 fury & a thunder double that with which she 
 greeted us on our first visit. This may be ascribed 
 to the great quantity of rain which has recently 
 fallen. The rapids boiled with far greater turbu- 
 lence & seemed to seek in greater haste to pour 
 their water headlong down the precipice as if 
 to avoid the volumes urging them behind. We 
 felt the effect of the cataract more distinctly for 
 the house distinctly trembled The solid earth 
 shook beneath our tread as we walked along the 
 banks. We determined not to miss seeing the Fall 
 from the Canada side on this occasion as we were 
 compelled to do last year by the weather & early 
 in the afternoon crossed over in the ferry boat 
 It really seems frightful to watch from the high 
 
 39
 
 shore the little boat tossing in the strong current 
 of the stream; but it is perfectly secure. We 
 found that the views on the Canada side far sur- 
 pass those on the American. The whole of the 
 falls is seen at once & with grand effect. There 
 are two or three sublime views presented. One, 
 from the bottom of the staircase just opposite the 
 Horse-shoe fall is perhaps the most imposing. You 
 are here just under the fall & to see it must gaze 
 upward — It is awfully — terrifically grand — When 
 we saw it there was just passing over a dark thick 
 black cloud of extremely heavy & leaden aspect 
 unbroken undivided by a sign of aught but gloom 
 — The effect was indescribable — The waters — the 
 immense body of the foaming cataract seemed 
 to be poured out of this dark cloud — for nothing 
 save the cataract & the cloud immediately above it 
 could be seen — & the idea of infinity seemed here 
 conveyed more distinctly than by any other pos- 
 sible conception. 
 
 From the top of Christler's Hotel, which is on 
 the bank immediately below the lower fall on the 
 Canada side & commanding a full view of both 
 falls, the most extensive & command [in] g view of 
 the whole falls & adjunct is obtained. You here 
 see the falls themselves — the rapids — & up the 
 river beyond Navy Island. We had determined 
 upon returning from "Table rock" in order to se- 
 cure a sketch of this view — which we visited first 
 on crossing the river, — but by the time we reached 
 Table rock the dark cloud already mentioned 
 poured down in torrents & the spray & mist which 
 ran from the fall after the storm abated entirely 
 prevented our being able to obtain the slightest 
 glimpse of the fall from the situation whence, but 
 an hour before, we had beheld so significant a 
 scene. The view from Table Rock is very fine In- 
 
 40
 
 deed — commanding the Horseshoe fall immedi- 
 ately & the second fall in the distance. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Niagara we visited the 
 site of the battle of Lundy's Lane just above 
 Drummond Ville. Here we were shewn two spots 
 on one of which 10,00 on the other 14,00 bodies 
 were buried after the battle — Many were not dead 
 at the time. — Bones were scattered about. When 
 I asked the man who showed us the spot why they 
 burned them — it seeming rather an unusual mode 
 of disposing of them — he answered with great 
 simplicity "Because they were in the way." 
 
 We visited next morning Schlosser an old 
 French fort 1 mile above falls on American side 
 & near which it was that the pirate Steam Boat 
 Caroline was cut away & burnt on the night of 
 [the 29th of December] 14 of this [last] year by 
 the British. Just opposite is Navy Island — of 
 recent note in the Canada "war." Opposite is the 
 Village of Chippewa. 
 
 Of the fort nothing remains but the intrench- 
 ments which are still perfect & one solitary gate 
 which lies in a ditch unhinged & without any posts 
 or apparent place but evidently a gate belonging 
 to the fort from its military appearance. 
 
 After breakfast we walked down the river be- 
 low the falls about 4 miles in search of the Whirl- 
 pool We searched but found it not. We saw the 
 river narrow & turn in several places & the cur- 
 rent very strong & rapid but no whirlpool. We 
 passed the sulpher spring which tastes very dis- 
 agreeable. In returning we sketched a beautiful 
 view of the falls — the finest we think on the 
 American side. They are seen to great effect thus 
 in the distance. But when nearer you require to 
 
 "Blank space left for date. The Caroline was destroyed 
 early in morning, Dec. 30, 1837. 
 
 41
 
 be close in order to see the grandeur of the scene. 
 This view is about 2 ] /o miles below the falls. 
 
 On the afternoon of this day we left Niagara 
 by the railway for Lockport — On the way many 
 fine views of the falls are afforded to us — the 
 track passing for a considerable distance on the 
 very edge of the cliff which forms the bank of the 
 River. We arrived at Lockport in two hours — 
 much of this line is precipitous & certainly dan- 
 gerous there being many sharp bends immediately 
 over precipices.. 
 
 The Locks at Lockport we noticed before but 
 will here give a more particular account of them 
 together with a few particulars relating to the 
 Erie Canal on which works these Locks are situ- 
 ated 
 
 Lockport owes its existence entirely to the cir- 
 cumstance of the Canal's formation. Several 
 workman's sheds were erected here during the 
 progress of the work & round them has gradually 
 gathered a town — A gentleman informed me that 
 when he arrived here in June 1822 there was not 
 a vestige of any human habitation or any prob- 
 ability of its erection. It was the centre of a vast 
 unpenetrated forest. Now the place numbers a 
 population of upwards of 5000 souls. 
 
 The Erie Canal may be considered as the monu- 
 ment of DeWitt Clinton. It was he who projected 
 the work & thro' whose efforts alone it was 
 effected. He had few supporters in the measure 
 His own friends thought it a wild scheme His 
 enemies called it "Clinton's Ditch" & many voted 
 for it because they thought it would prove his 
 ruin. It has proved a source of immense good & 
 wealth to the nation & especially to N. Y. State. 
 It was thro his great exertions & his appliance to 
 
 42
 
 the looking out for & obtaining supplies that the 
 work was carried thro. 
 
 The Erie Canal was begun in 1817 completed in 
 1825. It is 363 miles in length extending from 
 Albany to Buffalo. The expense of the work was 
 between 8 & 9 millions of dollars. 
 
 All the expense of the work has already been 
 cleared off by the revenue arising from Tolls & 
 a surplus is now on hand. The annual revenue 
 is $2,000,000 of which about $1,000,000 is ex- 
 pended in repairs & $1,000,000 is an accumulating 
 fund. 
 
 It is now contemplated to enlarge this Canal 
 so as to extend its usefulness. On the 17 March 
 1838 an act passed the N. Y. Legislature granting 
 a loan of $4,000,000 for this work. It is calcu- 
 lated that the enlargement will be completed in 
 8 years & that it will cost about 20 millions of 
 dollars. The Canal is now 4 feet deep & 40 feet 
 wide. It is to be made 7 feet deep & 70 feet wide. 
 The enlargement commenced before the act passed 
 — the commissioners being able to do this out of 
 the surplus revenue ($2,000,000) in hand. It will 
 now proceed rapidly. 
 
 The Locks at Lockport are one of the greatest 
 on the Canal — they consist of 5 tiers of 2 locks 
 each & rise like steps the one above the other. 
 They are about 10 or 12 feet wide & 70 long — 
 They will be increased in length to 120 feet but 
 in breadth not more than one foot. The present 
 locks cost $250,000 ; the new ones will cost $500,- 
 000. The aqueduct at Rochester which is likewise 
 to be renewed will cost the same sum. At the 
 town end of the locks on the bastion between the 
 two locks is fixed a marble tablet with this inscrip- 
 tion 
 
 43
 
 ERIE CANAL 
 Let Posterity be excited to perpetuate our 
 
 FREE INSTITUTIONS 
 
 & to make still greater efforts than their 
 
 ancestors to promote PUBLIC PROSPERITY by 
 
 the recollection that these works of 
 
 INTERNAL IMPROVEMENT 
 
 were achieved by the 
 
 Spirit & Perseverence 
 
 of 
 Republican Freemen. 
 [Alas that Republicanism is so exhibited in the 
 U. S. that this inscription may be almost quoted 
 in satire.] 15 
 
 There is another inscription at the other end 
 of the Locks — but I was unable to make out a 
 word of it from the circumstance of the letters 
 never having been blackened & I was unable to 
 approach within a considerable distance of the 
 tablet. 
 
 From Lockport we went (Ap 28) by stage to 
 Batavia & thereon by Railroad to Rochester — 
 Here we visited — which we had omitted on pass- 
 ing thro before — the Genesee Falls. They are 
 beautiful in themselves but after Niagara are 
 nothing & are spoiled by their waters being used 
 now to turn mills of various descriptions. Thus 
 is nature desecrated in her most lovely aspects in 
 America if only a few dollars can be turned by 
 this desecration. 
 
 Leaving Rochester in the afternoon of Sunday 
 the 29th at 2 o'clock we had a most miserable 
 journey by stage to Canandaigua a distance of 
 only 25 miles but which we were 7 J /2 hours in 
 performing. 
 
 Monday morning (30th) left Canandaigua for 
 
 15 The brackets appear thus in the manuscript. 
 
 44
 
 Auburn where we arrived in the evening. Road 
 better. Travelled at rate of 6 miles an hour — 
 Canandaigua, Geneva (16 miles distant) & Au- 
 burn are all very pretty places. 
 
 On the morning of May day — day with anxiety 
 anticipated, — we left Auburn for Utica — for the 
 present the Haven of our rest. And here at length 
 we have again arrived. We have quitted that 
 odious Detroit to which ill fate led us owing 
 merely & simply to the misrepresentation of Har- 
 riet Martineau — At great expense we have tra- 
 velled thither. — In ill health & unpleasantness 
 (owing merely to the vileness of the place) we 
 have lived there Often we have longed again to 
 see a land of comparative civilization & here at 
 Utica we have at length arrived. May day 1838 
 is [hallowed] for this cause — May it prove an era 
 in our history — for fain would we pray that some- 
 thing may be found by which I may be enabled 
 here to fix our residence during our stay in Amer- 
 ica — It is a pleasant place There is evidently a 
 more friendly disposition here than elsewhere 
 Heaven be propitious to these our prayers! 
 
 Utica 16 May 8th This is the 6th day of our so- 
 journ in this place and from what we have seen 
 it pleases us much The attention of some of its 
 inhabitants & its more advanced condition in the 
 common comforts of life appear in fine contrast 
 with the wretched city we have left. The varied 
 land scape which surrounds the town, forming in 
 some points of view a perfect panorama, is a very 
 agreeable change from the flat lands of Detroit: 
 and from the richness of the soil and prettyly 
 broken forest land we anticipate great additional 
 beauty when [spring] appears in some of her 
 verdan robes — This season is very late — even 
 
 18 Mrs. Smith's handwriting begins here. 
 45
 
 now the buds are scarcely perceptible on many of 
 the trees and the very few flowers that are to 
 be seen & those only in gardens look nipped & 
 frightened We spent an agreeable evening last 
 night at Mrs. Kirkland's Friendliness and Soci- 
 ability presided and we both of us felt it was an 
 evening in which we had improved. It was quite 
 English in its ceremonies & interesting conversa- 
 tion flowed naturally throughout the time. This 
 is the first time we have found it so nice since we 
 landed — Several ladies have called upon us & if 
 it were not that the horrid spirit of Calvinism 
 reigns in the city I should much like to live here. 
 Last night we heard such an unfavourable account 
 of the southern States & their inhabitants, that a 
 journey there is not a very desirable pastime. The 
 tone of society is very low in the scale of morals 
 & the comforts of civilized life difficult to attain. 
 The value of life is held at nothing & a man is 
 shot by the duelist or blow[n] up by the steamer 
 without any compunction! a pleasant state of 
 things truly — Toulmin gives an introductory lec- 
 ture upon the "Opinions of the Ancients concern- 
 ing the Nature of the Soul," this evening — he has 
 received valuable assistance in making arrange- 
 ments &c — from Mr. Whetmore & Mr. Kirkland — 
 both of whom happen to be leading men in the 
 place the result of course remains to be proved — 
 The Lectures succeed better than was expected 
 M[ay] 14th Monday On Saturday Mrs. Whet- 
 more called — a most friendly woman — afternoon 
 we rambled to the top of one of the neighbouring 
 hills — the view was pretty we gathered a wild 
 flower & enjoyed our ramble — 
 
 Sunday Morn [in] g we went to the Reformed 
 Dutch Church the Pastor gave a very sensible dis- 
 course upon the evils of Revivals — one having 
 
 46
 
 lately been got up in this city — Afternoon . we 
 wrote letters home & read — but at night a Cat 
 or rather Dogastrophe occurred Toulmin & myself 
 had been asleep about an hour when he whis- 
 pered "Martha do you hear that strange Noise"? 
 our door had been left open to make the room more 
 airy, it being a small one. We listened again & 
 the noise to our ears sounded like the breathing 
 of some animal ; forthwith to our imaginations up 
 rose in fearful strength, all the tales we had been 
 told of vipers & other horrid creatures having 
 been found in bed rooms &c — We were afraid to 
 tread upon the ground so Toulmin by means of a 
 chair & overturning a jug of water which stood 
 in his way made his escape — I in a terrible fright 
 took a flying leap from the bed to the passage & 
 in my way contrived to bruise my foot in such 
 a way that a lump the size of an egg instantan- 
 eously rose upon it: having gained our sitting 
 room we lighted our candle & our fire & not ven- 
 turing to return & look for our enemy till Morn- 
 [in]g we lay for the remainder of the night on 
 chairs. — Morning came at last — but no intruder 
 was to be found all that remained to recall our 
 fright was the Jug lying in a 100 pieces the chair 
 in the middle of the room & our stockings & shoes 
 soaking in the spilled water — 
 
 The only clue we can find to be the cause of such 
 a dire calamity is a report of a dog having been 
 known to be in the house sometimes — 
 
 May 28th Horribly dull grey weather — rain, 
 rain, rain now for a week — it is well the inhabi- 
 tants of this city make up by their attentions for 
 the gloominess of the skies — The people are in- 
 deed very kind to us — tonight we are going to 
 Mr. Mandeville's the Dutch Reform Clergyman 
 whom by the way we admire more out of his 
 
 47
 
 pulpit than in it — he pronounces the word nui- 
 sance as new-i-sance & he is quite a priest in man- 
 ner — T's Lectures on the Ancients are finished — 
 they are very interesting but as they are merely 
 interesting to literary tast[e]s can never be popu- 
 lar — in this country — however their proceeds will 
 pay our expenses in this place — It is very satis- 
 factory to observe the respect he gains amongst 
 those thinkers who do happen to come — The Mc- 
 Call family I like very much, the old Lady puts 
 me in mind somewhat of Mrs Alexander at Wake- 
 f[iel]d — Mrs. Tracy a sister of Mrs. Charles 
 Kirkland brought me in a nosegay — the first gar- 
 den flowers I have possessed since last summer at 
 Birmingham 
 
 June 7th Oh Utica! were your skies less grey 
 & gloomy a residence in your city would be much 
 more agreeable, but successive days of gloom 
 above & wet beneath are not those happy influ- 
 ences which tend to make the heart cheerful — 
 However I must say one thing this dismal weather 
 does not seem to affect the kindly feelings of its 
 inhabitants several of whom have really shown 
 us many attentions & by their manner show that 
 the milk of human kindness flows in their veins, 
 as proof of this, three bouquets of beautiful 
 flowers have been brought to me, & a no less 
 agreeable present though perhaps not quite so 
 elegant, was a basket containing sundry — slices 
 of good bread & butter!, (a rare article with us 
 now a days), cakes & jelly!!! These good Mr. 
 McCall thought would be grateful to the inhabi- 
 tants of a boarding house — T's Lectures are upon 
 the whole attended about as well as we were led 
 to expect they would be — but to me it is an in- 
 explicable thing — that the curiosity of the people 
 cannot be more awakened I will do T. the justice 
 
 48
 
 to say his opening & gratis lecture to Phrenology 
 is a very interesting one & I am convinced would 
 set me on the figets to hear the course — aye even 
 to the curtailing of my glove & ribbon monies 
 supposing I had no other means of procuring a 
 ticket — but no — bonnets with heads within them 
 come by the wholesale the first night — but no 
 others — how is it? We do again begin to tire of 
 moving about & now look forward to Boston with 
 hope some arrangement may be made for us to 
 pitch our tent there — As for myself — perhaps the 
 first time in my life I quite long to have a house 
 of my own — I absolutely detest these boarding 
 houses One cannot have a friend to tea or to dine 
 because what pleasure or comfort would it afford 
 them to exchange a good wholesome home meal 
 for a heap of messes & a seat amongst a parcel of 
 toutish people! Oh money & judgement to make 
 a right use of it — how much I wish you were ours 
 — . The people in England have forgotten us — 
 no letters for the last — last — 6 weeks ! 
 
 Sunday June 10th Surely this is one of the 
 hottest days we are to have — Therm — F92 — in 
 the shade — I can do little else than sleep for if I 
 sit long in one position even with an interesting 
 book — off I am to the land of nod — As for Toul- 
 min he is in a state of dissolution, merely kept 
 together in his wonted form by the lose draperies 
 which surround him — What will become of us 
 if the heat is to be greater than this — I dare not 
 contemplate — we shall become perfect sublima- 
 tions of the Genus man — 
 
 11th — This Morn [in] g is a trifle cooler — the 
 better for the thunder storm of last night. About 
 7 in the evening — we turned out to cool ourselves 
 — & watched the progress of the storm clouds from 
 the West — the heavens presented one of the most 
 
 49
 
 curious appearances I ever remember — one half 
 of the firmament was bright & clear while the 
 other frowned sublime — a very dark cloud curi- 
 ously taking the form of an arch spaned the zenith 
 & thus formed as it were a boundary — through 
 this Arc — the skies seemed as if closely reflecting 
 a tremendous conflagration beneath them, & grow- 
 ing more lurid as they approached one spot — this 
 illumined space was divided into two parts by a 
 dark cloud, a partial falling shower which in- 
 creased the strange appearance — The thunder 
 was distant, the lightening very frequent & vivid 
 — often appearing to dart up from the ground — 
 it gained upon us & on our return [we] took 
 shelter in Capt Mervine's who was standnig at 
 his door — this is a family newly converted to 
 the True faith — Phrenology — 
 
 June 13th 1838 A year back this was our Wed- 
 ding day ! ! How quickly has this period passed — 
 how like to yesterday that memorable day — This 
 past year has been bright & sunny & tho' perhaps 
 for the moment a passing cloud may have hung 
 upon the spirit ! it has only been transcient & has 
 been succeeded by moments in which increased 
 affection or respect have given value to the glooms 
 — As respects our worldly prospects if not much 
 better than when we first set out together, they 
 certainly are not worse so that upon the whole 
 the balance between good & bad is greatly in 
 favour of the former — in truth we have very very 
 much to be thankful for — & may our Heavenly 
 Father grant that the future may have nothing 
 worse in store for us — 
 
 July 4th Thermometer 17 at 95 degrees of 
 Fahrenheit — Blood heat — in the shade where no 
 sun reaches it the whole day — This is glorious 
 
 "Smith's handwriting in this entry and his wife in next. 
 
 50
 
 weather — Such balmy breezes floating thro' the 
 air — There cannot issue from the oven door more 
 grateful zephyrs — An only effort now can be — 
 how little clothing we can manage to keep on in 
 order to present decency. I have to lecture to- 
 morrow night — My Lord ! how shall I get thro' ! ! 
 
 This day is the anniversary of the "Declaration 
 of Independence" — & a most sensible mode of 
 keeping it they have viz — firi[n]g guns all day 
 from 1 o'clock in the morning till midnight — to 
 the no small discomfiture of all sensible people — 
 Alas for commemoration days — 
 
 July 8th — It is early in the day but the heated 
 state of the atmosphere promises great things for 
 Mid-day — Yesterday we visited the much boasted 
 Trenton & of course were disappointed — This 
 failure in our pleasure might have been partly our 
 own faults — for certainly ere this we ought to 
 have learnt how to appreciate American admira- 
 tion of their own scenery had we not heard so 
 very much — -we must have been pleased — are 
 gratified for there really is great peculiarity in 
 the scenery tho' to my feelings the magic of the 
 place would be caused by the lights & shadows of 
 moonlight & a more copious supply of water. The 
 river is the West Canada Creek — which in its 
 passage through a long narrow defile occasioned 
 by an apparent rent in a bed of grey limestone 
 gives a rugged & irregularly deep channel to the 
 waters — which in a distance of 5 miles make a 
 descent of 350 feet occasionally tumbling over sud- 
 den breaks in the rock which being fantastically 
 broken & water-worn form some picturesque falls 
 — partly, I presume from the heights of the en- 
 closing sides which are covered with wood & 
 partly from the great depth of the water in the 
 fissure — in some parts the colour of the water is 
 
 51 
 
 UBRARt 
 
 tmivERsmr of hlukob
 
 most curious & beautiful — being either of a 
 golden hue or of a rich dark brown — (like melted 
 bottle glass) — The rocks are grey lime stone — 
 remarkably stratifed splitt veiy regularly at 
 about 2, 3, & 4 inches in thickness & rich in fos- 
 sils. Some large Trilobites were in the Hotel 
 cabinet — While I was making a sketch of the 
 chief of the falls Toulmin & Mr. Whetmore plac- 
 ing themselves picturesquely amused themselves 
 with bathing their hands in the tumbling waters 
 of the torrent. — Amongst the wild flowers which 
 were not particularly numerous I gathered (a 
 scarlet columbine) the wild rapsbery, & very 
 beautiful kind of fern, but alack ! I could not get 
 them home before they were quite withered — The 
 distance from Utica is 14 miles through a richly 
 wooded & varigated country so the drive itself — 
 excepting the roughness of the roads is by no 
 means unproductive of pleasure — a comfortable 
 hotel affords refreshments for which you pay a 
 tolerable price & a return home the same day 
 about uses you up. 
 
 Today is Sunday — all the parsons in the place 
 insist so much upon Natural depravity & Original 
 Sin that it takes away all comfort and edification 
 attendant upon going to public worship — There- 
 fore do we think it productive of more improve- 
 ment to ourselves to stay at home & read Mark 
 & inwardly digest such portions of the Almightys 
 Works & revelations as fall within our path — 
 
 July 18th Night — All packed up & ready for 
 departure tomorrow Morn [in] g — We have been 
 in this place 21/2 months & have met with contin- 
 ued kindness & polite attentions from many of 
 the families How Different are the feelings with 
 which we leave our soujourning place this time — 
 
 52
 
 From Detroit we turned with disgust hence we 
 go with the sincere hopes of sometimes meeting 
 those acquaintances we have formed again — 
 
 In all the families we have known we have been 
 gratified by the expressions of regret at our de- 
 parture & I really believe there was some sincerity 
 notwithstanding the full development of No 11 
 so universally found in American Heads — 
 
 Vocabulary of American Barbarisms consist- 
 ing of perversions of language of slang phrases 
 in common use & of mispronunciations 
 
 Ambition 
 
 word 
 
 for 
 
 energy 
 
 Engine 
 
 pronounced 
 
 en-g?/ne 
 
 advertisement 
 
 prod 
 
 
 advertisement 
 
 Partizan 
 
 prod 
 
 
 pdrtizan 
 
 Horizon 
 
 prod 
 
 
 horizon 
 
 Interesting 
 
 prod 
 
 
 interesting 
 
 Musquet 
 
 prod 
 
 
 musk-wet 
 
 Lieutenant 
 
 prod 
 
 
 lew-tent 
 
 Go-ahead 
 
 slang for 
 
 actg quickly 
 
 Right away 
 
 slang for 
 
 directly 
 
 Fix 
 
 slang 
 
 for the p 
 
 erforming of an: 
 
 I guess 
 
 act or arrangt of any thing in 
 any way 
 slang for an infinite variety of 
 expressions such as I suppose, 
 I think, I hope, &c 
 
 Aboard — 
 
 used for 
 
 any 
 
 thing being r 
 
 
 in any 
 
 vehicle 
 
 European 
 
 pronounced 
 
 European 
 
 Opponent 
 
 prod 
 
 
 opponent 
 
 Reiterate 
 
 prod 
 
 
 reiterate 
 
 Massacre 
 
 prod 
 
 
 massacres 
 
 Harrass 
 
 prod 
 
 
 Harrass 
 
 53 
 
 S*»
 
 Clever 
 
 Ugly 
 
 Exquisite 
 
 Nuisance 
 Inquiry 
 
 for anything ordinarily good but 
 never applied to intellectl 
 power thus they s [a] y "clever 
 man" for good sort of fellow 
 "clever river" for one of good 
 size. 
 
 applied to moral instead of phy- 
 sical thus ugly man means one 
 of disliked conduct. 
 
 prod (short but accted "i") 
 Ex-qm-site 
 
 prod New-y-sance 
 
 prod Inquiry 
 
 54