If To Th Yc Tc Yc Tc Yc In W LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAICN IN MEMORY OF STEWART S. HOWE JOURNALISM CLASS OF 1928 STEWART S. HOWE FOUNDATION 917.731 F64C 1893 I.H.S. une Vant, $e it You to Get The Want You Want To Get. TYPEWRITER The history of the REMINGTON shows a steadily rising tide of popularity and success. It is absolutely unrivaled for all essential qualities of a first- class writing machine. "The Remington Standard Typewrit er is the official writing machine of the Wor/d's Columbian Exposition." SEND FOR CATALOGUE. WYCKOFF, SEAMANS & BENEDICT 175 Monroe Street, CHICAGO. 327 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, H. N. COOPER .& Co ESTf\TE> INV&STM&NTS SPECIALTIES Residence lots on and near the LAKE SHORE DRIVE, south of Lincoln Park. Residences and residence lots at La Grange. Shares in the La Grange Land Association. This Association has purchased a large frontage in the best portion of this elegant suburb, at an average of $11.00 per front foot. Years of experience in selling La Grange property makes us certain that more than 100 per cent, can be realized by improving and retailing this property. The title to this property is held by the Chicago Title and Trust Company as Trustee, and all money is received and paid out by them. Shares in the Association are $100 each. For particulars call or address, GITY OFFICE LA GRANGE OFFICE 100 WASHINGTON STREET 5TH AWE,, LA GRANGE ....TELEPHONE 5754.... u OFFICES",^ ric.n* ** , VJ> . . 735 ^738 J dJEAI?B9Rfl Si UNITY BUILDING _^ TELEPIfOKmtomiflf/CAG O^ Intelligent Atoning, can help you on this it is our bus- iness our clients are successful formerly small advertisers are now among- the largest our advice brings results. Estimates and other information relative to the placing of * Intelligent Advertising" cheerfully furnished intending ad- vertisers. Advertisements designed and proofs submitted free of charge. The "Advertiser's Guide" to leading newspapers and magazines mailed free. ADDRESS, CHAS. H. FULLER'S ADVERTISING AGENCY, 112 Dearborn Street, CHICAGO. 50O TEMPLE COURT BUILDING, NEW YORK CITY, HENRY DECKER. MANAGER. ADDRESS, UNTIL MAY 1, 1893, 69 DEARBORN STREET. rtr SAFEST, FASTEST and FINEST TRAINS IN AMERICA IU T N VIA Baltimore &Qi Raw NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE AND WASHINGTON. All trains vestibuled from end to end, and pro- tected by Pullman's Anti-Telescoping Appliance, including baggage cars, day coaches, parlor cars and sleepers. THE BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD Maintains a Complete Service of Vestibuled Express Trains BETWEEN NEW YORK, CINCINNATI, ST. LOUIS and CHICAGO, EQUIPPED WITH PULLMAN PALACE SLEEPING CARS Running Through With- out Change. ALL B. & O. TRAINS BETWEEN THE EAST AND WEST RUN VIA WASHINGTON. PRINCIPAL OFFICES. gS^WAS^S '^' 11 *"- 8:Mvi^ T a2Mb. Cor 79th & Chestnut Sts, Phil, P.. 193 Clark Street Chicago 111. Cor. Baltimore & Calvert Sts., Bal., Md. 105 Broadway, St. Louis, Mo. 1351 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington, D. C. CHAS. O. SCULL, GHN-L PAS. Aar J. 7. ODELL. GEN-. MQR. IVID. IV MARSHALL FIELD ft Co State and Washington Streets, Chicago. Probably of more importance to ladies than any other point of interest in Chicago, is the retail house of MARSHALL FIELD & Co. Rated as it is among the largest in the world, it is by far the most complete and most handsomely equipped in Chicago, and a shopping headquarters for the larger portion of its residents. To strangers a most cordial welcome is extended. Waiting rooms, check rooms, retiring rooms, and all possible conveniences are offered to those who care to enjoy them. To patrons it has to recommend it LARGE STOCK OF DRY GOODS, ETC. LOW (the lowest) PRICES and ABSOLUTE TRUSTWORTHINESS. GEORGE M. BOGUE. HAMILTON B. BOQUE. HARRY W. CHRISTIAN. BOGUE & COMPANY, Real Estate floenoy Rooms 203 to 209 Real Estate Board Building, 59 DEARBORN STREET, CHICAGO- ESTABLISHED 1867. BUY AND SELL REAL ESTATE ON COMMISSION, PROPERTY MANAGED, INTERESTS OF NON-RESIDENTS CAREFULLY ATTENDED TO RENTS COLLECTED, LOANS NEGOTIATED, A LARGE LIST ALWAYS ON HAND OF INVESTMENT PROPERTIES, RESIDENCES, VACANT FOR IMPROVING. ACRES RIPE FOR SUB-DIVIDING. Agents for the World Renowned Grant Locomotive Works' Addition to Chicago. The only Locomotive Works west of Pittsburg. 600 men no-w employed. MANY HOUSES HAVE BEEN BUILT MORE ARE NEEDED. NOW IS THE TIME TO BUY A LOT. IT IS THE BEST INVESTMENT AROUND CHICAGO. Send for Plat and get Free Tickets. LOTS, &5OO flND UPWARDS. (ocp^rt Opticians . . . FIT EYES AT 38 E. MADISON ST., CHICAGO. OSCAR D. WETHERELL, Preset. MELVILLE E. STONE, Vice Pres't. D. A . MOULTON, Cashier. C. C. SWINBORNE, Aes't Cashier. The Globe National Bank OP CHICAGO. Capita! and Surplus, - $1,080,000,00 CENTRAL HALL, THE ROOKERY, ADAMS AND LA SALLB STREETS. DIRECTORS. MELVILLE E. STONE, GUSTAVUS F. SWIFT, JAMES L. HIGH, BERNARD A. ECKHART, JAMES H. PEARSON, AMOS GRANNIS, ALSON E. CLARKE, WILLIAM H. HARPER, SAMUEL H. SWEET, EVERETT W. BROOKS, DON. A. MOULTON, ROBERT L. HENRY, OSCAR D. WETHERELL. VII ESTABLISHED 1857. J. B. CHAMBERS * CO. IMPORTERS, DIAMONDS, RUBIES, SAPPHIRES, EWWERflLDS, FBftRLS, SET, LOOSE ND MOUNTED TO ORDER. AMERICAN WfTTGHES FOREIGN JEWELRY NOVELTIES STERLING SILVER SOUVENIR SPOONS, WEDDING AND ANNIVERSARY GIFTS, CLARK AND MADISON STREETS. RICE & WHITACRE MFG. CO, Engines, Boilers Steam Power Plants. Steam and Hot Water Heaters. 47 SOUTH CANAL STREET .... GHIGAGO-.. VIII THE STANDARD GUIDE TO CHICAGO ILLUSTRATED WORLD'S FAIR EDITION 893 WRITTEN AND COMPILED BY JOHK J. KLINN COMPILER op THE OFFICIAL GUIDE BOOKS TO THE WORLD'S COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION; CONDENSED GUIDE TO CHICAGO, HAND BOOK OF CHICAGO BIOGRAPHY, ETC. 'Not in the Arabian Nights' Entertainments, though bathed in all the glorious colorings of Oriental fancy, is there a tale which surpasses in wonder the plain, unvarnished history of Chicago." CHICAGO THE STANDARD GUIDE CO. 358 DEARBORN STREET Entered according- to the act of Congress, BY THE STANDARD GUIDE CO. JOHN J. FLINN, W. S. SHEPPARD, President. Secretary and Treasurer. In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. All Rights of Translation Reserved. THE LARGEST ESTABLISHMENT DEVOTED EXCLUSIVELY fO HIGH GRADfc LITHOGRAPHY IN THE WEST. WM. 8. OROUTT, QEN. Ma*. LITHOGRAPHERS^ BELDKN F. CULVER DEALER ON COMMISSION IN REAL ESTATE. PROPERTY OF NON-RESIDENTS TAKEN CHARGE OF AND THEIR INTERESTS PROTECTED. CAREFUL ATTENTION GIVEN rQ fjpo r U nrn Of TO THE PAYMENT OF TAXES U ^ 1/Odl UUJ Ol. AND SPECIAL ASSESSMEN TS. CHICAGO. XIII INVESTMENTS. LOANS. RENTING. INSURANCE. XIV TO THE CHILDREN OF CHICAGO IN GENERAL, AND TO MY OWN LITTLE CHILDREN IN PARTICULAR, WHO, IF THE LORD SPARES THEM UNTIL THEY SHALL HAVE ATTAINED THE ALLOTTED SPAN OF LIFE, WILL SEE THIS CITY THE GREATEST METROPOLIS ON THE GLOBE. THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY THE COMPILER. THIS BOOK IS DIVIDEDD INTO THRBE F>ARTS. PART I. THE GUIDE TEN TRIPS AROUND THE CITY, PAGE 23. PART II. GENERAL INFORMATION, PAGE 123. PART III. THE APPENDIX STATISTICAL INFORMATION, PAGE 539. MORTGAGES AND REAL ESTATE INVESTMENTS MONEY TO LOAN, oo TELEPHONE, MAIN 877. Oor. TJnd.er First USTatiozial CMICAGO, XVII ANDREW DUNNING Real -Estate- Investments 92 LA SALLE STREET, CHICAGO. / BELIEVE I HAVE SOME CHOICE BARGAINS. , IT WILL COST YOU NOTHING TO SEE THEM. SPECIALTIES. ACRE TRACTS for investment, subdivision or syndicate purposes. Parcels of ten or more LiOTS at genuine wholesale prices, for investors, retailers and builders. INCOME PROPERTY paying eight to ten per cent., net. I recommend investments in the NORTHWEST SECTION of Chicago, where prices have not been "boomed"; but where the rapid progress of improvements during 1892 and increased trans- portation facilities warrant the belief that the history of the Southside is repeating- itself there. WRITE FOR CIRCULARS. XVIII INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. American Radiator Co.'s Sales- room 297 Andrews, A. H. & Co.'s Bldg 169 Art Institute 85 Ashland Block 29 Ashland Boulevard 305 Athenaeum Building '. . 112 Auburn Park, view in 411 Auditorium Bldg, Facing Part I Auditorium,Studeoakerand Chi- cago Club Bldgs 73 Aurora Woi-ks, Aurora Smelting and Refining Co 505 Benedict,George H.& Co.'s build- ing 211 3erwyn, Residence in 413 Jerwyn, Suburb of, Railway Sta- tion 277 Bird's Eye View World's Colum- bian Exposition. ..Facing Preface Boyce Bldg 43 Carpenter George B. & Co.'s.. 207 C., B. & Q. General Ticket Office 183 Central Masic Hall 61 Chamber of Commerce Bldg 91 Chicago Beach Hotel 321 Chicago Cripple Creek Gold Min- ing Co 507 Chicago Raw Hide Mfg. Co.'s Bldg 253 Chicago River, Near its Mouth . . 25 Clark and Randolph Street 551 Clark Street, North from Madi- son 365 Conover Piano Co.'s Office and Salesroom 357 Conover Piano Co.'s Works 349 Continental National BankBuild- ing J55 Columbus Buggy Co. Repository. 537 Columbus Buggy Co.'s Works... 467 Columbus Bldg. 64 Daily News, Counting Room 387 Dale & Sempill's Drug Store 243 Davis & Rankin Bldg & Mfg. Co. Interior 325 Dearborn Passenger Station 223 Deering Harvesting Works 511 Douglas Monument 147 Donohue &Henneberry (In Front) XL Drexel Fountain 65 Evening Journal Bldg. 388 Evening Post Bldg 391 First National Bank, (Office of Dunlap, Smith & Co.) 151 Frank's Collateral Loan Bank, Interior 293 Friedman, J. & Co.'s Bldg 177 FRONTISPIECE Chicago Has Arisen Facing Title Page Garfield Park, A View in 215 Germaiiia Club House 377 Gormully & Jeffery Mfg. Co.'s Works 235 Grand Central Station 273 Grant Locomotive Works 519 PAGE. Grant Monument 120 Great Northern Hotel 80 Gross' Suburbs, Locations of 418 Gross' Suburbs, Views in 421 Hardy's Subterranean Scenery Theater (two views) 136 Hartford Bldg 38 Haymarket Square 373 Herald Bldg 113 Herald Office, Interior 393 Hill, F. H. Co.'s Bldg 285 Home Insurance Bldg 142 Hooley's Theatre, Interior 189 Hotel Pfister, Milwaukee 485 Illinois Central Railroad Depot . 451 Illinois Central Railroad Map, Showing Entrance to City 465 Indian Monument, Lincoln Park 317 Inter-Ocean Bldg 37 John M. Smyth Bldg., Exterior. . . 313 John M. Smyth Bldg., Interior ... 117 Kaestner, Charles & Co.'s Fac- tories 219 Keeley Institute, Laboratory and Office 329 Keeley Institute, Taking the Treatment . 337 Keeley Institute, Waiting for the Train 333 Kimball, The W. W., Bldg 109 Kimball, W. W. Co.'s Piano and Organ Works 265 La Grange, Views in 425 Lake Michigan, Scene on 69 La Salle Statue 143 La Salle St., So. of Randolph 361 Lees Bldg 137 Libby Prison, National Museum. 133 Lincoln Monument 309 Lincoln Park, Clark Street En- trance 161 Lincoln Park, Lily Beds and Schiller Monument 249 Manhattan Bldg 70 Map Showing Chicago's Geo- graphical position 369 Marshall Field's Retail House (State Street Bldg) 187 Masonic Temple 53 McCormick Harvesting Machine Co.'s Works 261 Me Vicker's Theatre, Interior .. 125 Mead > s .2^^^ u js ^ r/5 1) 4-J ti G UJ K^ c3 c "^ 03 D *"^ hO *S *> o> g g^esSu^^.s.s 1 s Q Q Q) Q Q) Q ui ui ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ LA GRANGE LAND ASSOCIATION TELEPHONE, MAIN 5333. 132 La Salle Street, CHICAGO. CAPITAL, $2,000,000. 20,000 SHARES, $100 EACH. CHICAGO TITL.E & TRUST COMPANY, Trustee. This Association controls over 80,000 front feet of choice residence and business property, costing less than $10 per foot, which can be retailed at $30 per foot and upward. The land is located in the beautiful village of LA GRANGE, one of Chicago's choicest suburbs, which is on the west of Chicago, and distant from the center of Chicago only 27 minutes via the C., B. & Q. R. R. LA GRANGE is improved in a thorough and substantial manner, with complete sewer, water and electric-lig-ht systems; beautiful trees and macadamized streets. LA GRANGE has a population of more than 5,000 people, which is rapidly increasing. (For further descriptive matter of LA GRANGE, see page 424 of "THE STANDARD GUIDE TO CHICAGO.") THE LA GRANGE LAND ASSOCIATION is formed upon a plan to erect buildings for rent, which vv r i 11 earn dividends upon all shares, thus enabling 1 the Association to hold its large estate through the Trustee, The Chicago Title & Trust Company , and to sell the property gradually as the growth of Chicago and La Grange make it required by the public, in this manner obtaining the best prices. The shares, which are $100 each, will prove a very profitable invest- ment. The Trustee, The Chicago Title & Trust Company, cash capital, $1,500,- 000, receives and pays out all money, and signs and issues the certificates Of shares of THE LA GRANGE LAND ASSOCIATION. Any one who will carefully investigate the property, and the organiza- tion of the Association, will become convinced of the investment value of the shares, and that the Association is formed on a basis of trusteeship, which secures to the investor a proper administration thereof. Full particulars given and property shown by the LA GRANGE LAND ASSOCIATION, E. HUNTIN3TON PRATT, 132 LA SALLE STREET, SECRETARY. CHICAGO. EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE. E. HUNTINGTON PRATT, HENRY N. COOPER, GEORGE I. TALBOT, DANIEL W. BALDWIN, JACOB C, PRATT. Pf\RT 1. THE GUIDE TEN DAILY TRIPS AROUND THE MARVELOUS CITY. CHICAGO. Not in the Arabian Nights' Entertainments, though bathed in all the glorious colorings of Oriental fancy, is there a tale which surpasses in won- der the plain, unvarnished history of Chicago. And it is probable that even the elastic credulity of childhood, which from generation to generation has accepted, without question, the impossible adventiires of Aladdin, Ali Baba and Sinbad the Sailor, would be sorely strained if confronted with the story which the most prosaic historian of this remarkable city is called upon to tell. Chicago is one of the wonders of modern times. Her progress amazes mankind. There is not on record an achievement of human intellect, skill and industry that will bear comparison with the transformation of a dismal swamp, in the midst of a trackless desert, within the span of a human life, into one of the mightiest and grandest cities on the globe. Chicago, ITS RANK WITH Cook County, State of Illinois, United States of America, is OTHER GREAT the second city on the American continent in point of pepu- CITIES. lation and commerce. Among the cities of the civilized world, it is only outranked in population by London, Paris and New York, in the order named. The U. S. census taken in June, 1890, placed the number of inhabitants at 1,098,576. The school census, taken at the same time, generally believed to be far more reliable, increased the number to PRESENT 1,208,669. Since then new districts have been annexed to POPULATION. the city, and the former ratio 'of increase has been more than maintained, so that a conservative estimate of the population of Chicago, in the summer of 1893, brings the figures up to 1,500,000. The City of Chicago, incorporated March 4, 1837, comprised "the district of country in the County of Cook, etc., known as the east l / 2 of the south- west % of section 33, township 40 north, range 14 east ; also the east % of sections 6, 7, 18 and 19, all of fractional section 3, and of sections 4, 5, 8, 9 and INCORPORATION fractional section 10 (except the southwest fractional % AND LOCATION, thereof, occupied as a military post, until the same shall become private property), fractional section 15; sections 16, 17, 20 21, and fractional section 22, township 39 north, range 14 east." Since then there 24 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. have been twelve extensions of the city limits. The rapid growth of Chicago RAPID has been an enigma to those who have not intelligently inves- GROWTH. tigated the conditions which have led to it. In reality it has only kept pace with the country of which it is the natural commercial cen- ter. Situated as it is on the southwest shore of Lake Michigan, in 41 ' r?2' X. at. and 87 52' W. long., 854 miles from Baltimore, the nearest point on the Atlantic seaboard, and '^,417 miles from the Pacific ocean, directly on the highways from East to West and from the Great Northwestern States to the GEOGRAPHICAL Atlantic ; hav- POSITION. ing all the ad- vantages of a seaport town combined with those of a great inland feeder, it is not to be wondered at that within the space of half a century it grew from a mere hamlet to the dimensions of a great metropolis. Before we take up our daily trips around the city, there ai'e a few points which I desire to impress upon your mind, so that you may have an intelligent un- derstanding of the magni- tude, geography, commerce and architecture of the city, as well as of the divisions of population. CHICAGO RIVER The m a i,n AND ITS stem of the BRANCHES. Chicago river, with its two branches, north and south, divide the city of Chicago into three "Divis- ions," or "Sides," viz.: the South Side, or South Divis- ion; West Side, or West Division; North Side, or North Division. Popularly .SIDES OR the term "Sides" is used. The municipal term is "Divis- DIVISIONS. ion," while legally they are called "Towns." that is, before annexations were made, the South, West and North Divisions were separate townships. New townships have since been added to each of the sides. For instance, Hyde Park and Lake have been added to the South Division, Lake View to the North, and a portion of Cicero and Jefferson to the West Division. UNITY BUILDING. See Buildings. 26 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. The population of the South Division, according to the school census of DIVISION 1892, was 515,736; of the West Division, 645,428; of the North POPULATION. Division, 276,846. Germans lead among the foreign born peo- ple of Chicago; the Irish come next and are followed by the Scandinavians, Bohemians and Poles. Every nationality on earth is represented here. It FOREIGN-BORN is claimed that fully one-third of the population is of for- CITIZBNS. eign birth. Nearly two-thirds are of direct foreign origin. CENSUS The persons over 21 years of age number 895,847; under 21 STATISTICS. years, 542,163; between 14 and 21, 138,616; between 6 and 14, 191,180; between 4 and 6, 68,280; under 4 years, 144,085. The number between 12 and 21 years, not able to read or write English, was 4,458; the number under 21 years, obliged to work and who could not attend school, was 41,946; the number between 7 and 14 who do not attend school, was 8,732. PRIVATE AND The number in kindergartens was 4,968 ; number in private PAROCHIAL schools, 6,575; number in church or parochial schools, 51,442; SCHOOLS. number in business colleges, 9,271 ; number of colored per- sons of all ages, 19,754; number of Mongolians of all ages, 1,476. Chicago, in 1835, had an area of 2.55 square miles ; in 1893 ithas an area of 182 square miles. AREA AND The city has a frontage on Lake Michigan of 22 miles,and a riv"- WATER er frontage of about 58 miles,22>4 miles of which are navigable. FRONTAGE. The distance between N. Seventy -first St., being the northern city limits, and One hundred and Thirty-ninth, being the southern city limits, is 24 miles. The city at its broadest point is 10.5 miles in width. State st. is LENGTH AND the longest thoroughfare in the city, running from North WIDTH OF THE ave. on the North side, to the southern city limits, 18 miles. CITY. Eighty-seventh is the longest street running east and west, extending the entire width of the city. The geographical center of the city of Chicago is located at the intersection of Ashland ave. and Thirty-ninth st. The site of the business portion of Chicago was originally a marsh. It is believed that Lake Michigan covered at one time almost the entire sur- GEOLOGICAL. face occupied by the present city. Beneath the marshy soil is a blue clay, and underneath this is a quicksand. A leading engineer maintains that Chicago is built upon a crust less than thirty feet thick, and that the weight of the massive structures which have been and are being erected, may prove sufficient at some time to break through. The result would be a disintegration of the foundation soil upon which these buildings now stand and a general collapse. This view, however, is not entertained THE by engineers generally, although the crust theory is admit- FOTJNDATION ted. Water is struck at a depth of about eight feet. Found- SOIL. ations are made generally by driving long piles into the soggj soil or by overlaying it with steel rails crossed and recrossed, which are filled in with cement, so as to secure a uniform pressure. The city of Chicago is level, but not fiat. There are considerable rises here and there, the most noticeable being the ridge which traverses the southern TOPOGRAPHY, portion west of Hyde Park to the Indiana line. All difficulties in the way of sewering have been overcome long since by skillful engineering. The Chicago river which originally emptied into, now flows from the lake. THE GUIDE. 2? The sewage is carried by the river, in great part, to a canal which conducts SEWERAGE it through the interior. It finally finds its way into the Illinois AND DRAINAGE, and Mississippi rivers. The drainage of the city is an inter- esting subject, and the plans for future work in this connection are of great magnitude and involve the expenditure of many millions. The climate of CLIMATE. Chicago is healthful and beautiful, though the weather sometimes goes to extremes in summer and winter. The air is cool and bracing through most of the summer and hot nights are very rare. The mean barometric pressure during a period of ten years was discovered by the U' S. Signal Office to have been 29.303 inches ; the mean annual tempera- ture, 40.068; the mean annual precipitation, 36.64 inches, and the mean annual humidity of the air, 70.9, 100 representing complete saturation. The maximum annual precipitation averaged about 46 inches during this per- iod. The highest mean temperature was 51.40 degrees, the lowest 45.42 degrees. HARBOR OF The Chicago River is an unattractive stream, but a view CHICAGO. from one of the bridges which cross it, during the season of navigation, is interesting. The scenes at Rush St., Clark St., Dearborn St., Wells st., Lake St., Randolph St., Washington st., Madison st., Adams St., Jackson st., Van Buren st. or Twelfth st. bridges are nearly always animated. It will be a surprise to the stranger, whether American or foreign, to learn MARINE that the arrivals and clearances of vessels at Chicago harbor STATISTICS, exceed those of New York by fully 50 per cent. ; that they are nearly as many as those of Baltimore, Boston and New York combined, and that they are a fraction of over 60 per cent, as many as all the arrivals and clearances in Baltimore, Boston, New York, New Orleans, Philadelphia, Portland and San Francisco. Chicago has also fully 25 per cent, of the entire lake carrying trade, as compared with the total arrivals and clear- ances in Buffalo, Detroit, Duluth, Erie, Huron, Grand Haven, Milwaukee, Ogdensburgh, Sandusky and Marquette. The government of the city of MUNICIPAL Chicago is vested in a Mayor, elected for two years, salary GOVERNMENT. $7,000; and a city council resemblance to each other, although there is in reality a vast difference between them. But let us be moving. On our left, between the river and South Water st., is The Central Market, about the nearest approach we have in these days to a public market house in Chicago. This is in the nature of a shamble, conducted to some extent on the English system. It has not proved altogether popular or successful. We pass South Water st. and pause for a momen t to look east and west. It is confusion on either side. Moving south we po- THE GUIDE. 51 the great wholesale grocery establishment of Reid, Murdoch & Co. This is their principal but not their only warehouse. East of here, on Michigan ave., extending- to Central ave., they have several large warehouses. We pass a number of pi-ominent concerns, among them the immense glass and queensware house of Pitkin & Brooks, at the N. E. Cor. State and Lake sts. We pass Lake Street, formerly the great retail street of the city. Before the fire Lake st. was what State st. is to-day. The principal dry goods houses were located upon it. It is now given over to the hardware, cutlery, leather, rub- ber and machinery trades. We are now in the center of what was formerly the South Market square of the city. Here, in other days, stood a market house after the fashion of the time, in which was located a police station and a volunteer fire company's apparatus. [See " Market Squares."] The fact that this portion of State st. was Once a Market Square, accounts for its great width. But it does not explain how the street came to be widened as far south as Madison st. There was a movement on foot years ago to increase the width of the street to the south line of Madison. Meetings of citizens and special meetings of the city council were held for the purpose of promoting this scheme. Resolutions were adopted and meaningless ordinances were passed, looking to the desired end. A certain man owned the greater part of the frontage on the west side of State, between Madison and Randolph sts., where all those ele- gant buildings are standing now. Property was not quite so valuable then as it is now, but a lot on State st. represented a small fortune even in those days. The man who owned this frontage was a quiet, thoughtful business man then, as he is now. His name was and is Potter Palmer. While the citizens meetings and the city council meet- ings were passing resolutions and enacting meaningless ordinances, Mr. Palmer was developing a plan for the widening of State St., in his own mind. This plan was a simple one. He carried it out by presenting the city of Chicago with the frontage taken from his own lots necessary to give this section of State st. a uniform width. It was done so quickly and so quietly that the citizens and the city council were taken by surprise. The sacrifice made by Mr. Palmer for the public good was a great one. Every foot of the property he so generously gave away represented a large sum of money. Nobody has ever heard him speak of it, however; only old citizens remember it now. Potter Palmer's Public Spirit and generosity made State st. what it is to-day, for if it had not been widened the retail business would have long since sought another avenue not far away ; and while I am on this subject I want to say to you, not exactly what I think about Potter Palmer, but what all Chicagoans, who know anything aboxit the man, feel. His influence has always been a mighty if a silent force in the development of this great city. He has -L\V' r-i X E? 4 53 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. Bazaar of all Nations.-l believe you will agree with me that it is the great- est establishment of the kind under one roof you have ever seen. It really contains as much as an ordinary local exposition. Everything from a pound of porterhouse steak to a sealskin sacque, or from a spool of cotton to a complete outfit of furniture and carpeting for a hotel, may be purchased here. There are employment agencies, dental parlors and barber shops here. There is also a magnificent restaurant in the basement, Van Buren st. front. It will require considerable of your time to-day to walk through the floors of this immense establishment. If we move down State st. to the corner of Congress we will obtain a view of the section of Old "Cheyenne" which has not undergone any very material change for the bet- ter, but which is destined within a few -years to be one of the best built sections of the city. Just below us on the left are the Peoples and Park Theatres two places of amuse- ment given over to the pro- duction of the sensational drama. On the other side of the street'are Dime Museums. Nearly every block has its variety theatre or concert hall. Saloons of a question- able or unquestionable character seem to have a monopoly of the street front- age. Down here Black and White mingle Bl K3 tSH H W 09 H El 81 f HI almost indiscriminately. V HI KM HEElElS fit Wl HI Ml The upper floors of the stores at. lIEi Hi9Po| Hra HI H which are not given over to 1 WPB^iffli3HHb!ri| r-o-oms, furnished and un- 363 1 3 -a furnished, are occupied as I HB'-ffifll'ilSH.RPlR m hotels. A short distance be- [J I SrJ' Wj 1 *^. ' * - t i V IL j n '7 s *g!)yi!iy | n jZi low is Harrison St., which . tU Eflfe raliTite^KMNHiiBEMBa runs from the lake to the prairie west of the city. Then comes Polk st., and about a block and a h a 1 f from the corner is the Dear- born or Polk st. station, where a large number of rail- roads have their terminals. | See Railroads and Railroad Depots.] The railroads em- ploy great numbers of colored porters and these have their rooms or their boarding houses in the vicinity. Tiirning down Congress St., we pass the present terminus of the Elevated railway, which will take you to the southern portion of the city or to the World's Fair grounds. [See " City Railways."] A loop is to be built farther northjfor the accommodation of passengers over this line. On the next corner to our left below and extending for an entire block, is The Famous Auditorium. [See " Buildings."] This building is described elsewhere, but I may give you a few facts concerning the beautiful and mammoth structure here. It has a total street 1 frontage on Wabash ave., Michigan ave. and Congress st. of 710 feet; height of main building (10 stories), 145 feet ; height of tower above main building (8 floors), 95 feet ; height of Ian- MANHATTAN BUILDING. See Buildings. THE GUIDE. 71 tern tower above main tower (2 floors), 30 feet; total height, 270 feet; size of- tower, 70x41 feet; the foundations cover almost two and a half times greater area; Weight of Entire Building, 110,0(ky tons; weight of tower, 15,000 tons; exterior material, first and second stories granite, balance of building stone ; interior material, iron, brick, terra cotta, marble, hardwood finish, etc.; cost of iron work, about $600,000; number of brick in building, 17,000,000; mimber of square feet of Italian marble mosaic floors, 50,000 (containing about 50,000 pieces of marble, each put in by hand); number of square feet of terra cotta (arches and partitions), 800,000; number of square feet of wire lath, 175,000; number of square feet of plate glass, 60,000; number of miles of gas and water pipes, 25; mimber of miles of Electric Wires and Cable, 230 ;number of miles of steel cable for remov- ing scenes on stage, 1 1 ; number of electric .ights, 10,000; number of dynamos, 11; number of electric motors for driving ventilating apparatus and other machinery, 13; number of hydraulic motors for driving machinery, 4 ; num- ber of boilers, 11; number of pumping engines, 21 ; number of elevators, 13; number of hydraulic lifts for moving stage platforms, 26. The Auditorium building includes; 1st The Auditorium, permanent seating capacity, over 4,000; for conventions, etc., (for which the stage is utilized) about 8,000. 2d Recital hall, seats 500. 3d Business portion consists of stores and 136 offices, part of which are in the tower. 4th Tower observatory, to which the pub- lic are admitted (25 cents for adults, 15 cents for children). The United States Signal Service occupies part of 'he seventeenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth floors of the tower. These departments of the building are managed by the Chicago Auditorium association. 5th Auditorium hotel; 400 guest rooms. The grand dining room (175 feet long) and the kitchen, are on the top floor. The magnificent banquet hall is built of steel, on trusses spanning 120 feet over the Auditoriiim. [See "Auditorium Hotel."] The hotel is leased and managed by the Auditorium Hotel company, J. H. Breslin, of New York, president; R. H. Southgate, vice-president and manager. The Auditorium has Several Entrances, but the main one is on Congress st. The arches spring from four marble columns whose immense size is lost sight of in the general effect. Passing through the bronze doors, the spectator finds himself in a court whose beauties compare with anything in the building. Marble, bronze carvings, stained glass and gold have been fashioned into a design worthy of the structure of which it forms a part. The floor is Inlaid with Marble Mosaic work in intricate designs. Huge polished shafts of glittering marble are set off by carvings and bronzes. A thousand people are easily accommodated in it. The idea of the construction of a great building of this character was first made public before the Commer- cial Club, in an address delivered by Ferdinand W. Peck, the originator of the enterprise, May 29, 1886. The idea was received with great favor at once, and, on December 4th, of the same year, a stock company was organ- ized to carry it into execution. There are now nearly 300 citizens among the stockholders. We can see The Auditorium at, Its Best from a point in the Lake Front Park on a line with Polk st. From this location an almost perfect perspective can be obtained. The walls loom up over the surrounding buildings like some great cliff over the scraggy pines which cling around its base. The tower is seen in its true proportions and stands out sombre and grim. It requires no stretch of the imagination to picture the muzzles of guns protruding from the windows beneath the masonry of the cornice. From the Lake the Auditorium and the Masonic Temple are the first objects that break the monotony of the horizon, as the incoming steamer plows its way toward the city. The Vieicfrom the Tower, seventeen stories above the street level, is in many respects more enchanting than that from the Masonic Temple roof garden. It will cost you 25 cents to be admitted to the balconies of the tower, but it 72 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. is worth the money and the time you may give it. Two thousand square miles of water are spread out before you from the point of observation. Michigan City, half hid by the sand hills, which line the eastern coast, is plainly revealed on a clear day. South Chicago lays almost at your feet. Evanston is in view, and its University buildings can be picked out by those familiar with the place. Below you is the city A Seeming Ocean of Smoke, with half obscured buildings, showing their domes and battlements out of the clouds, as if vainly striving for one breath of fresh air. Out over the lake the air is clear as the blue of the sky above it, and undefiled as the waves which curl into foam below it. Michigan blvd. melts away into a perspective, in which the long lines of lamp-posts and shade trees merge into nothingness. Over a lumdred and fifty feet below is the broad roof of the Auditorium and the skylights which surmounts the hall. The spii*e of the average church would not reach that skylight. Here it is that the United States signal service has established its station. It may be considered safe to say, that the local station occupies the highest arti- ficial altitude of any in the country. I cannot very well drag you away from the Auditorium tower until I shall have pointed out to you The Four Mile Crib, from which Chicago may now be supplied with 130,000,000 gallons of water d'aily, in addition to her stipplies through the other tunnels, if this quantity should be requii'ed. [See " Water Works." | And I must point out to you also the roofs of the great structures in our vicinity, for but little more than the roofs can be seen. To our right down there, on the lake front, is the new depot of the Illinois Central Railroad. [See "Rail- road Depots."] It is a handsome structure. Follow the track with your eye along the shore to the north, passing the beautiful Arf Institute [See " Buildings"], and you will see the last evidence of the great Chicago fire. That pile of debris at the foot of Lake st. is all that remains of the old Illinois Central depot, destroyed in the fire of 1871. Extending into the Lake is the north pier. At the extremity of it is Chicago Light. [See " Lighthouses."] You see a queer craft moored to the pier. This is the Argonaut, the home of the Argo club. [See " Clubs."] The great pier at our feet was constructed for the accommodation of the Henry Syndicate Steamers, which had the privilege granted them of land- ing passengers from the city at the World's Fair. You obtain a splendid view from here of the numerous excursion steamers and sailing craft, either mov- ing up or down the basin, or moored to the shore. That long, dark line you see running parallel with the shore is called The Government Breakwater, or Pier. It was constructed at an immense expense to the National treasury for the protection of our shore line. It was also designed to inclose a harbor, but Chicago has long since outgrown a harbor of this size. For years the ownership of a large portion of the sub- merged land in this basin, or harbor, was in dispute between the city of Chicago and the Illinois Central Railroad company. It was taken from court to court until, in the autumn of 1892, it was Decided in Favor of the City by the Supreme Court of the United States, a legal victory that gave widespread satisfaction in Chicago. The case, as finally decided, granted the ownership to Chieago of the land along the lake front, together with the part of the harbor extending from the north pier at the mouth of the river, soTith for a distance of about one and four-fifth miles, and from the shore one mile into the lake. This constitutes an area of about 1,050 acres and is valued at 873,000,000. It was decided that the Illinois Cen- tral was entitled only to its right of way of 200 feet along the lake shore. Riparian rights were denied it but some property which it acquired by fill- ing, or, rather, which it reclaimed from the lake at great expense, during the litigation, was finally granted the company. I have given the valuation of The Submerged Lands above at about $73,000,000. This is about the figure placed vipon it by real estate appraisers, at its value in case it were thrown into the market, divided into blocks, lots, etc. A much higher valu- ation, however, is placed upon it by others. The pi-obability is that it will f^K^4 74 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. never be thrown into the city for sale as business property. There was much talk of filling' it or piling: it for the accommodation of the World's Fair buildings when the question of a site was being discussed, but for various reasons the idea was abandoned. There has been much talk of construct- ing Docks for Shipping along the shore line, but this has also met with gen- eral disfavor. It is believed that if the docks were constructed on the outer edge, and warehouses erected in connection with them, the traffic thus cre- ated and centered here would cause such a congestion in the heart of the city as to greatly interfere with the ti-ansaction of business. It is more than probable that the great basin will be filled in and Transformed into a Beautiful Park to be connected with the present Lake Front Park by viaducts over the railroad tracks, which latter will be sunk far below their present grade. This would be a realization of a Chi- cago dream. Her people have long wanted such a park near the center of the city. Great public buildings will rise from the present Lake Front Park, facing on Michigan blvd. The Art Institute is there already; below it to the left, covering the site of old Dearborn Park is the New Public Library Building. The new Post-Office and Custom House will be erected probably opposite the Library. The Crearar Library is to be located on Michigan blvd. in this vicinity. A great museum, to be filled with treasures from the Columbian Exposition, will be erected close by. There are already on the boulevard in this section, the Auditorium, the Chicago Club building, the Victoria Hotel, the Richelieu Hotel, the Leland Hotel, the Art Institute already alluded to, the Athletic Club House, the Pullman building, The Press Club Building, the Public Library and other beautiful struct- ures of a public or semi-public character, which constitute a frontage of marble, granite, terra cotta, brick, steel and glass such as you have not seen and will no : see in any other city in the world. To see these buildings we will have to get down to the street level, but you will be anxious to view the Auditorium theatre lobbies; perhaps you will care to visit Professor Kayzer's conservatory of music. At any rate you will not leave the Audi- torium until you shall have seen the hotel. That great building on the cor- ner is the Auditorium Hotel Annex, or Congress hotel. It is ten stories high. The exterior features are three round bays running up through the building and a heavy overhanging cornice. This graceful structure was erected to accommodate the overflow from the Auditorium hotel. The building is thrown entirely into suites, parlors and sleeping rooms. The two buildings are connected by a beautiful marble-lined and Electric Illuminated Tunnel under Congi-ess st. Before leaving the Audi- torium hotel, I will ask you to note the magnificent rotunda with its gor- geous pillars and frescoing, the elegant parlors, and the banquet and dining halls at the top of the building. You may take the elevators to any floor. No, you will not be intei'fered with. It is a public house, and all that is asked of you is that you conduct yourselves as you would in a private house. [See "Auditorium," "Auditorium Theatre," "Auditorium Hotel," and "Audi- torium Hotel Annex."] When you shall have visited these hotels, we might take a stroll through the Lake Front Park, from which we will obtain a splendid view of the Michigan boulevard frontage, as far south as Lake Park row. Leaving the Auditorium we walk north on Michigan ave., passing the beautiful Studebaker building [see "Buildings"], the old Art Institute [see "Buildings"], the Victoria, Richelieti and Leland hotels [see "Buildings " and " Hotels "J , the Chicago Athletic Club building, and on oiir right the magnificent New Art Institute. [See " Buildings."] This building is one that will cause you to pause for a while. We pass on our left the great Pullman building. [See "Buildings" and " Pullman, "| the Chicago Fire cyclorama, and at Washington St. we come to the new Public Library building. [See "Buildings."] It is not necessary for rne to give you descriptions of these THE GUIDE. nt structures. Turn over the pages and you will find them all described in alphabetical order. If we go Xorth, of Randolph tff."fff, on Michigan ave., we will land in the heart of the grocery district, or wo may find ourselves on the Rush st. bridge, from which we can see the docks of the Goodrich and Graham & Morton and other lake steamship companies. [See " Water Transportation."] A pleasant trip across the lake to St. Joseph, Mich., or up the lake to Milwaukee, Wis., may be taken any morning or any evening from these docks. The steamers are built for rough service because weather as stormy as any experienced on the ocean is frequently met with on the lake. They are elegantly furnished and are perfectly safe. A Trip to Milwaukee should be taken by all means before you leave the city. Start in the morning, if possible. If the day is clear, you will have a splendid view of the entire water front of Chicago from the lake. All the way to Milwaukee the steamer keeps within sight of the shore, and you will see the beautiful suburbs which dot the coast between the two cities. Milwaukee is in itself worthy of a visit. It is beautifully situated, rising to quite an elevation above Lake Michigan. [See "Tributary Cities and Towns." | If we THE PALMER HOUSE. See Buildings. walk west on Randolph st., and south on Wabash ave. we will still be in a section of the wholesale district given over to heavy merchandise. On the corner of Randolph st. and Wabash ave. is the great lithographing estab- lishment of The Orcutt Company. Across the avenue is the wholesale grocery house of Franklin, McVeagh & Co. Should we follow Wabash ave. to the north we would land at the Rush st. bridge again. I won't take you down this way, because the streets are filled with heavy wagons, the drivers are not in the best of humor always, and the sidewalks as a rule ai-e pretty well covered with barrels and boxes and merchandise of a miscellaneous character, which is being handled on skids between the wagons and the warehouse fronts. There are some great concerns in this section, among the foremost being the Hibbard, Spencer & Bartlett company, dealers in hardware and cutlery. There are great grocery houses and drug houses down this way. If we go north as far as River st. we will come to the house of Hoyt & Company, upon which we will find an inscription telling us that it occupies the 70 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. Site of Old Fort Dearborn. Beyond is the great soap factory of the Kirks, alluded to before. I will leave you here to decide for yourself whether it is worth while to take the risk of being crushed to death or run over, but before parting with you I would suggest that you visit some of these great ware- houses if you would like to get an idea of the methods pursued by Chicago business men. You will be treated courteously, but don't get in the way. SIXTH Df\Y. Wabash Ave A Thoroughfare in a State of Transition Changes of Re- cent Years Residences Give Way to Business Blocks The Handsom- est Street in Chicago Special Lines of Trade Grouped The Carriage District, Varnish District, etc Kimball Building and Kimball Hall A Popular Composer Great Millinery and Gi-ocery Houses Gunpowder and Cigars. Dickens tells us in one of his novels of a London thoroughfare which at the time of his story was passing through that unhappy stage of transition when people had begun to abandon it as a residence street, but as yet other people had not looked upon it as a desirable avenue for trade. For nearly twenty years Wabash ave. has been going down hill as a i-esidence street. There has never been any doubt but that some day it would become one of the great" est commercial avenues of the city ; yet up to five years ago the process of transformation south of Van Buren st. was exceedingly slow. For many years the ground laid bare by the great fire of July, 1874, was permitted to lie vacant, the owners being Uncertain as to the Future. There was no demand for handsome resi- dences north of Twenty-second st. and rentals sufficient to justify the erec- tion of large business blocks could not be obtained. The ground was too valuable for small buildings, so that the street remained at a standstill. The Auditorium enterprise, however, attracted attention to South Wabash ave., and during the past years real estate transactions on that thoroughfare have been very active. Down on this avenue, but too far south for our pur- poses, is Havlin's cozy theatre, and here, near Sixteenth st., is the Libby Prison museum. You will probably visit both of these places, as well as the numerous houses of entertainment which are open day and night along this thoroughfare. Among these are the cycloramas, the Battle of Getty.sburg being an established attraction ; the John Bi'own fort, the Subterranean theatre, Haverly's casino, etc. [See "Amusements."] Elegant buildings-are making their appearance all through this section now. They are not of the sky scraper order, but they are architecturally beautiful and meet a demand which is growing in this vicinity for retail houses. I have always looked upon Wabash ave. as The Finest Business Street in Chicago. It is of greater uniform width than any of the others in the center of the city and the buildings north of Congress st. are almost of uniform height. Looking north from the Audito- rium, magnificent buildings line the avenue on either side as far as the eye can reach. Some of the most beautiful commercial structures in the city are to be seen along here. To the south and north of the Auditorium building we pass through the carriage district. It is remarkable how the different departments of trade finally become consolidated. Here we find one carriage repository after another. Then we step right into the varnish district, where a score of firms are engaged in the varnish, paint and oil traffic. Another distinctive district merges into this. It is occupied by dealers in marble and wooden mantels, picture mouldings, etc,, and here, between 241 and 263, we find ourselves in a hive of subscription book publishers. But don't be^fright- [Engraved for The Standard Guide Company.] THE PULLMAN BUILDING, S. W. COR. MICHIGAN AVE. AND ADAMS ST. [See Pages 74 -189.] 78 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. ened. The safest place on the battle-field is under the ammunition wagon' We must hurry along here. The show windows :<_iv seductive and \\on> meant to detain us. Let us drop into the different store-rooms and see the displays of books, paintings, engravings, ornamental marble work, fine fur- niture, etc., etc., which are temptingly arranged all along here. We reach the magnificent W. W. Kimball building, in which is located Kimball hall, one of the finest structures on the avenue. [See "Kimball Hall." j The Kimball and the building adjoining are occupied by music teachers principally, and by persons connected with the imisic trade. Kimball hall is upstairs, over the handsome warerooms of the W. W. Kimball Company. Passing up the ave- nue we stand here and there admiringly in front of the picture store and iur- niture store windows, of which there are many, and we find the day wearing rapidly away as we pass from Wirts & Sholle's into O'Brien's art gallery. Although State st. has monopolized the retail dry goods trade for many years, James H. Walker & Co. have so established themselves down here now that customers leave the big thoroughfare to the west naturally and no longer feel that they are going out of their way when they step over to Wabash ave. Alexander H. Revell's furniture house is close by. Before we leave this corner of Adams st., I want to call your attention to the establish- ment of the Root & Sons Music Company. This house was founded by the popular composer, George F. Root, whose songs you have either sung yourself or listened to in the good old days. It is one of the largest music houses in the country. At No. 204 we find Brentano's, the Chicago branch of one of the leading book and periodical houses of the world. Brentano's establish- ments may be found in London, Paris and New York. Here you will find any- thing that is standard in foreign and domestic literature, guide-books, periodicals, newspapers, etc. The next block is given over to picture stores, photographers, publishers, fancy goods dealers, cloak and suit estab- lishments, etc., and the windows are all attractive. The great millinery house of Keith & Co. is at our right as we pas.s up, and it seems to be the gather- ing place, just at present, of all the milliners in the country. They are here making their fall purchases. One after another now we pass smaller but no less attractive millinery stores, that branch of trade having found a center in this vicinity. Yes, they are all wholesale houses, exclusively. S. A. Maxwell's well known house is passed, and in the vicinity are a number of publishers and fancy goods stores. The monotony is broken by the great family grocery house of Charles H. Slack. This is a concern of genuine Chicago proportions. It i* one of the largest, handsomest and most complete retail grocery houses on the continent. The show windows are themselves a treat. Now we pass the headquarters of the American Baptist Publication Society and the American Tract Society, and we find ourselves entering the great pub- lishing and book house of A. C. McClurg & Co., which has grown up with Chicago and occupies a position second to few of the great publishing concerns of the world. Here you will find several floors of wide area given over to the display of books and high class engravings. A. C. McClurg & Co. publish extensively themselves and are prepared to furnish anything from a single volume to an outfit for a public library. This is a great resort for people of literary taste, and I am proud to say that Chicago people of literary taste are very numerous. There is a large number of interesting houses along here. Here is The Tobey Furniture Company, which is one of the most conspicuovis con- cerns on the avenue, partly because it is one of the largest, partly because of its beautiful front and partly because of its elegant window display. This building was occupied for a longtime as the branch house of A.T. Stewart & TIIK C.UIDK. 79 Co. That firm came out West with the idea that it would dose up a number of the rreat Chicago houses which were outline oft' its business behind the ears. Finding that it couldn't close up the Chicago houses it did the next best thing and closed up itself. Afterward the great store rooms were occu- pied as a wholesale hardware concern, now out of existence, bxit it remained for the Tobey Company to give the corner life and animation, and it is now one of the establishments which is making Wabash ave. a popular street. Across the street is an establishment well known throughout the country and in Europe, where its buyers are often met with. This is the house of D. B. Fisk & Co. Magnificent both as to exterior and to interior. It is a wholesale millinery house of the highest order, antl goods are shipped from here north, south, east and west in quantities which I wouldn't dare to esti- mate. But wherever you go you hear of D. B. Fisk's millinery, and wherever D. B. Fisk's millinery goes the loving husband and the indulgent father pays the freight. On the corner diagonally opposite is the China, glass, porcelain, Dresdenware, etc., etc., establishment of French, Potter & Wilson. The window display is magnificent, but it is only a hint of the beautiful and the pretty and the costly things to be seen inside. Nearly everything here is imported. There are some beautiful lamps, some charming vases, some elegant dinner and tea sets; but we must move on for the'present. You can come back and take your own time later in the day. We now come to the business college of Bryant & Statton. This institution has turned out more thoroughly equipped young business men than any other in the country Many of the most successful merchants in Chjcago to-day have received their training here. It will be worth your while to go up and take a stroll through the college. We are now on the outskirts of the wholesale grocery district, and we begin to see evidences of it in the nvimber of cigar signs, gunpowder signs, etc. I don't know why gunpowder and wholesale groceries should always flock together, but they do. There are some stove establishments and wholesale drug stores and chemist supply houses here, but we are in the midst of the wholesale tobacco and cigar men generally speaking, and these go hand in hand with the men who handle teas, coffees, sugar and molasses. Here is the Frazer Lubrica- tor Company, of which Mr. George B. Swift, formerly Commissioner of Public Works, is president, and a perfect row of -tea houses. In Doggett's building, at No. 34, there is about a hundred commission firms doing business in every branch of trade related nearly or remotely to the grocery business from minced meats to tallow candles. SEVENTH Df\Y The City Hall and Court House History of these Great Buildings The Court House Bell What the Structures Cost A Trip Through City Hall The Health, Detectives, Fire Alarm, Mayor's Offices, Etc. The Central Sta- tionReporters' Room The Public Library Over to the Court House The Recorder's' Sheriff's, Coroner's, Treasurer's and Other Offices The Courts Divorce Day Motley Crowds in Attendance. To-day we make the City Hall our starting point. This building, and the Cook Coiinty Court House adjoining, stand upon the site of the Court House destroyed in the great fire of 1871. The old Court House stood in the center of the block and was surrounded by a green lawn in the nature of a park. It was a handsome building as buildings went in those days, and had a tower in which there was a clock and a great bell. This bell rang out in dole- ful peals on the fatal Sunday night in October, 1871, almost up to the moment the tower became enveloped in flames. After the fire the bruised and 80 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. Battered Bell was taken from the ruins by an enterprising firm and worked up into souvenirs watch charms, breast pins, etc., which found a ready sale and commanded good prices. So great was the demand that several hundred tons of old bell metal were consumed in supplying it before the intelligent public began to suspect that there was anything wrong. The foundations of the new Court House were laid in 1875. The labor troubles incident to the hard times in 1877 induced the city government to begin work on the City Hall in that year. The building was commenced under the administration of Mayor Heath and finished under the administration of Mayor Harrison. It is A Stately Pile, as you perceive, and its architecture would be called Grecian by a person not over particular in regard to such matters. Although its general style has been subjected to much severe criti- cism, it is some- thing in its favor to say that, notwith- standing the numer- ous magnificent piles which have been erected in its neighborhood dur- ing recent years, it is still t'ne most Striking and, alto- gether, the hand- somest structure in the city. These re- marks are applic- able, of course, to the Court House, which indesigmand finish differs very little from the City Hall. If anything, the Court House is a little the hand- somer of the two, because the city was retrenching when the City Hall was being constructed, and a number of costly details which entered into the Court House were dropped. The City Hall building as it is to-day cost, exclus- ive of the ground upon which it stands, very nearly $1,800,000. The cost of the Court House exceeds the figure by nearly $1,000,000, but that much money additional didn't go into the structure. A great part of it was used in bribery, in election expenses and in riotous living. If the Walls Could Speak they would tell the story of the most corrupt period in the history of Cook county politics. Some of the living ex-county commissioners, by the way, could, if they felt inclined, tell it just as well. But this is a digression. The City Hall occupies half the block bounded by Washington st. on the south, Randolph st. on the north, La Salle st. on the west and Clark st. on the east. We enter it from the Washington st. side, passing into the tunnel-like corridor which runs the entire length of the base- GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL. See Buildings. 82 OTTDK TO CHTCAfiO. ment from Washington to Randolph st. The first offices to our left ar? +hose occupied by The Health Department. Here the Commissioner of He?ith, a gentleman appointed by the Mayor is in charge. He has a large corps of assistants, and from those rooms the sanitary condition of the city is supposed to be regulated. The health department looks after ou_ back-yards, our back alleys and our back streets, where nobody else appears to be interested. It also takes a peep into our great factories, sees that work-shops are not over-crowded, and protects the better classes from infection arising out of- the districts occupied by the other classes- It also vaccinates us on demand, and sends us to the small-pox hospitals at times, if we have neglected the modern precaution of inoculation. But small-pox in Chicago is very rare, and the " pest house " keeper of late years has been living a life of ease and drawing the salary of a sinecure. If you will step inside they will tell you that Chicago is the healthiest city on earth. Only eighteen out of every thousand of us die or get run over or fall down elevator shafts every year. Just across the corridor to your right is the City Detective Office. The people, and more especially the newspapers, of Chicago, are inclined to be cynical. You will probably hear that the city detectives are organized for the purpose of allowing criminals to escape, and that the safest place for a thief is under the very nose of one of the municipal sleuths, but you must pay no attention to this kind of talk, for, while the detectives capture thousands of rogues every year, they are sel- dom spoken of unless in connection with the escape of some criminal. The city detectives do a great deal of really creditable work that the public is never informed of. The real clever men in the detective department are Modest and Unknown, so that when somebody points out to you on the street a person with the make-up of a Vidoq and calls him one of the shrewd- est sleuths on the force, you may assume that this person is a detective for parade purposes only. Inside the detective department is The " Sweat-Box," where criminals.or suspected criminals, are subjected to the "pumping" process before they are regularly committed. Some out- rages have been committed in this same "sweat-box," and it isn't popular with the people. It smacks of the inquisition, and the methods sometimes pursued in "pumping" prisoners are repugnant to the American idea of fair play. The detectives dress in plain clothing. They are generally picked from the police force proper and are presumed to be intelligent men. Across the corridor to the left is the Central Police Station This is in reality a sub-station of the First pre- cinct, but at the same time, by reason of its situation, is the most important police station in the city. In olden times that is, about thirty years ago when Lake st. was the leading thoroughfare of the city, the handsom- est men on the police force were detailed for duty upon its crossings. These men composed what came to be known as " The Lake Street Squad." Later on, as the city grew and other streets became as great as Lake and even greater, additional details of a like charac- ter were drawn from the force proper. Then the railroad depots and bridges demanded men. Finally the various squads were consolidated into the Central Detail. The police of this station perform day duty in the center of the city, exclusively. They have charge of the bridges, railroad depots, public places generally and street crossings. In the night they are relieved by patrolmen from the First precinct station. There is a procession of visitors to the central station all day long. The great majority of minor crimes are com- mitted in the business district. Pick-pockets, sneak-thieves, confidence men, etc., arrested by the detectives, are brought in here. Here also reports are received from all the precinct stations. We are shown into The Reporters' Boom, where reporters of the city press maybe found from morn till night, from night till rosy morn, waiting and watching for the reports which come over the telephone, or are handed in by special messen- gers from the various precinct stations. Here the first news of accidents, murders and crimes generally is received. When a crime or accident of THE GUIDE. 83 unusual importance is reported, the representatives of the press immediately notify their city editors by telephone, and are relieved of further responsi- bility, as men are dispatched from the newspaper offices to the scene of the occurrence. Minor affairs only, as a rule, are followed up by the police report- ers, who are expected to remain at or near their posts constantly until relieved. Many of the leading- journalists of the city have begun as police reporters. The central station is a great. School for Newspaper Men, as there is an opportunity hero of becoming acquainted with evei'y phase of metropolitan existence. Along the COTTI- dor various other offices are devoted to the affairs of the police department but the work done is principally clerical and uninteresting. To our left as we move toward the north are The Fire Alarm Offices. These are interesting to visitors. Here all alarms of fire are received, and from these offices all alarms are sounded on the gongs of the numerous engine-houses. There are no alarm bells in the city. The apparatus, as you see, is beautiful; its operation is marvel- ous. At first sight, all those instruments of shining brass and nickel, ever maintained at the highest state of polish, may appear complicated, but to the operators they are simplicity itself. While you are looking on, the simple turning of a switch may arouse the entire fire department, an-l for that matter the entire city ; but you have no knowledge that perhaps a neigh- borhood is In a State of Panic, for the silent fluttering of a hand on one of the dials, or the almost imperceptible clicking of an instrument no large rthan your hat are meaningless to you. While the fire department is battling with the "demon destroyer," as the country reporter loves to call it, arid a howling, crazy mob is being held in check by the police, the operator sits here in peace and quiet, waiting for the "out" signal, which is sometimes too long delayed for the good of the piiblic and the happiness of the fire insui'ance companies. We can spend an hour in here very pleasantly and very profitably, if the operators are not too busy to talk. We walk to the end of the corridor, as- cend one flight of stairs to the first floor, and move toward the south along a higher and a brighter corridor. To our left is The City Collector's Office, where clerical work only is performed, the city collector being a person who has much to do with licenses, brewers and saloon-keepers, but across the the hall are The Water Offices, several in number, and all more or less crowded during business hours. Here we pay our water rates, make complaints about leak- ages, arrange for supplies, etc. Turn to "V/ater Works" in this book, notice the statistics of the department, and you will comprehend what an immense amount of business all these clerks transact every day. A little further on are the offices of the Department of Public Works. Hei*e the entire machinery connected with the public works of the city of Chicago is operated. This includes so much that it would require half a day to tell you all about it. The Public Works department, however, cares for our streets, our sewers, our bridges, our via- ducts, etc. ; besides, it plans and executes all improvements and supervises the operation of corporations, such as street car companies, gas companies, electric companies, etc., whenever these corporations are granted franchises to tear up or occupy our streets, and that means a great deal more than you will be able to understand during a brief visit to Chicago, for private cor- porations are granted privileges here that they would not dare ask, perhaps, in the city you came from. The rest of this floor is given up to the bureau offices, the Comptroller's offices, etc., of no particular interest to you. Taking one of the elevators at the northern end of the building to the next floor, we find The Mayor's Office at our right. The mayor's office consists of a suite of rooms. The outer office is occupied by private secretaries. Then comes an immense reception room, and, back of this is the sanctuary. Here the mayor of the gi'eat city of Chicago entertains his most distinguished callers. Alder- 84 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. men who happen for the moment to be in touch with him, and perhaps, now and then, but not often, an ordinary citizen who has a request to make or a grievance to ventilate. A great deal depends upon the man who happens to be mayor at the time you call. He may be an agreeable gentleman who hasn't forgotten, and doesn't forget, that he is the paid servant of the peo- ple, or he may be an individual who believes he is Mayor by Divine Right, was born to the position and has really done the people a great kindness by consenting to fill it. But whatever his ideas may be, he is not robed in scarlet, as are the mayors of some little European cities, nor is he waited on by a uniformed attendant. He is usually a plain man sometimes very plain who can be easily approached by the common people. The next floor is given over to bureau and department offices. On the fourth floor is The Council Chamber, a large and handsome assembly room where the sixty-eight aldermen meet and legislate for the people. The remainder of this floor is occupied by The Public Library, which is described in this book. We will be able to spend the remainder of the day very pleasantly here, if we can intei-- est the librarian or one of his assistants in our behalf. There are more books circulated by this library now than by any other in the United States, not even excepting Boston's. The collection of books is very complete and is being added to annually. At the present rate of increase we will have one of the largest libraries in the world within a very few years. I have not called your attention to the Crowds in the City Hall, because it wasn't necessary. You have been jostled by them at every stage of our trip. What so many men are doing here all day long I can't tell you, because I don't know. But they are to be found here every day, hanging around the corridors, with no apparent aim in life, and, judging from the faces of most of them, without much hope of a hereafter. A great many of them are political "wire-pullers," "workers in the wards," "friends" of the office holders, etc. The fact that they have some connection in some mysterious way with men occupying influential positions prevents the police from arresting them on charges of vagrancy. If you wish, we will take a look at The Cells in the Basement, also at the collection of stolen goods in the hands of the custodian. This will not require much time, because the cells are not very numerous here nor is the custodian's collection particularly interesting. We will go over to The Court House, entering this building also from the Washington st. side. And here it might be remarked that the main entrance to the Court House is up a flight of granite steps in the center of the structure on Clark st. The main entrance to the City Hall is by a similar flight of steps on La Salle st. Both entrances are Grand in Proportion and beautiful in design. But it is more convenient to begin at the very bottom. We enter another tunnel-like corridor, and before proceeding farther, I might as well tell you that the entire building is occupied by the various county offices and courts ; that, immense as it is, it fails to accommodate all of them, some of the offices and courts being located in the Criminal Court building on the North side, and that two additional stories are to be put on this building. How it will look with two additional stories I don't know. It is claimed that The Symmetry of~the Structure will be destroyed. Certain it is that if two stories are not also added to the City Hall the latter building will present an extremely dumpy and unsatisfactory appearance. The original design was never carried out. There was to be a great dome over the united buildings. The city and county failed to agree to the expenditure of the requisite money, and the dome was dropped out. With a six-story Court House and a four- story City Hall, of course a dome in the future will be out of the question, unless the City Hall side of it is to be supported on props. This might be picturesque, but it would hardly be considered in the light of an artistic 86 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. triumph. Yet, Chicago has passed through so many ordeals unscathed that we have reason to hope the Court-House-City-Hall question will be settled to everybody's satisfaction in the end. Passing a number of uninteresting county offices we come to the County Recorder's Office, where all transfers of real property in Cook county are registered. As settlement of questions of ownership must finally be determined by the records of this office, its importance will be under- stood, The great fire of 1871 destroyed all the records of Cook county and it was a herculean task to restoi-e them. The most important of these records, of course, were those upon which the ownership of real estate was estab- lished or proved. Many thousands of deeds were also Lost in the Great Fire, so that endless confusion and litigation might have resulted had there not been in existence here private institutions which kept abstracts of all land or real estate titles. [See "Abstracts of Title." | These assisted very materially in straightening things out, and, with the aid of expeits in the business, the county was soon in possession once more of complete records. The business of the Recor- der's office is extremely dry and tedious, yet you will be interested in watching the people who are constantly handing in deeds and mort- gages through a little win- dow to be recorded, and con- stantly receiving them through another little win- dow after they have been recorded. Most of them are lawyers' clerks, real estate dealers and money brokers. Passing other offices of minor importance, we come to those occupied by The Sheriff, at the ex- t r e m e northeastern corner of the building. The Sheriff is elected by the people, as perhaps you know, and has the peace and good order of the county in h i s especial charge. Yet, as the city of Chicago covers the greater part of the county just now, or at least the most important part of it, the police duties of the Sheriff are rather limited. He looks after the jail and the courts, his deputies being, as it were, like the sand on the sea shore. The bailiffs are his iinderlings, and The Litigant is His Victim From the sheriff's offices all siimmonses of the state courts are served. One of the duties of this official is to hang a man, for example's sake, periodically. But he does this by contract, as he does nearly everything else, from the feeding of jail prisoners to the sup- pression of public tumults. In the basement, near the sheriff's office, we also find The Coroner's Office. The coroner has a number of deputies [see " Coro- ner's Inquests "], and in a big city like Chicago they are all kept busy. There are sudden deaths, suicides, deaths from accident, homicides and murders MONADNOCK BUILDING. See Buildings. THE GUIDE. 87 to be investigated, and the coroner or his deputies must be on hand before Ihe funerals take place. The deputies must be acquainted with ail lan- guages and must speak many of them, the English tongue, strange as it may appear, being the least requisite in the transaction of their business. This might be explained easily by saying that the great majority of the working people of the city, among whom accidents are the most frequent, are for- eigners. Climbing a flight of stairs, we reach the first, or Main Floor of the Court House. Here the County Clerk's office invites our attention because of the multitude of clerks we see inside, nearly every one of whom wears a light blonde mustache. The fact that the county clerk is invariably a German or an Irishman, perhaps accounts for this. The clerks are nice young men, as a rule, and will answer any questions you may put to them, if they understand your language. In the county clerk's office we find the marriage license clerk. [See "Marriage Licenses."] It will be interesting to remain here awhile and take note of the persons who apply for legal permission to wed. Most of them are Oaivky Young Men. Why they should be gawky it is hard to say, but a young man who is naturally easy in his manner becomes a gawk when he has any business of this kind on hand. He isn't used to it, and he is afraid that something will happen to prevent the consummation of his wishes. Many are widowers who are willing to take another risk, and not a few are men who have been divorced for cause. He is a very rare sort of man who can not, somehow, somewhere or sometime find a mate, and we see here all sorts and conditions of male humanity from the bandy-legged to the hump- backedwho have proposed and have been accepted. Our next stopping place is The County Treasurer' suffice. I w r ill have to ask you to refer to the in- dex that you may acquaint yourself with the condition of Cook county finances. This is no place for dry details, nor for figures. We pay our taxes here ; we pay a great deal of money into the County Treasurer's hands for taxes every year, and he pays a great deal out to meet the current and other expenses of county government. If all the money received and paid out had been honestly applied during the past twenty-five years, we might have had a gold-burnished dome on the top of the City Hall and Court House buildings to-day, besides a number of other things equally desirable if not quite so ornamental. But the tax-payers are not grumbling. In view of all the circumstances they congratulate themselves that even a small percent- age of the revenue has been used for public purposes. Of late years the stealing has not been so great, principally because the opportunities have not been so numerous. The County Treasurer's office is one of the most in- teresting in the Court House, for here we find people who have, by Honest Toil and Industry, secured solid property, cheerfully, though not voluntarily, contributing their share towards the payment of public expenses. Men and women, old and young, are here, native and foreigner, with their tax bills in one hand and their purses or rolls of money in the other, await- ing their turns in the long lines that radiate from the different windows. Going up another flight of stairs we find ourselves Among the Courts. Including the County and Probate courts there are nineteen halls of justice in the Court House. Some of these are Superior and some Circuit courts. The difference between them you would not appreciate if told. They have practically equal jurisdiction. Only the civil courts, how- ever, are held here. The criminal courts are held on the North side in the Criminal Court building. The court rooms, together with the Superior and Circuit Court Clerk's offices, occupy the second, third and fourth floors of the Court House. The court rooms are all handsomely finished. They are generally crowded. If you see one you see all. Saturday is given over to Divorce Cases in the Superior Court, and, if your taste lies in that direc- tion, you might spend a highly enjoyable day listening to the tt stimony and looking at the complainants, witnesses and other spectators. The court crowd is always a motly one, and mostly a rather interesting one. There are men and women who, like little Miss Flight, spend day after day in these 88 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. courts, with no oilier object in view than the satisfaction of an insane or an idle curiosity. They will listen to the dreariest testimony with a degree of interest that fills the wearied juror and jaded judge with shame. EIGHTH DfVY. Down La Salle from Lake St. An Avenue of Commercial Palaces Marine Building Jackson Hall Metropolitan Block" Uncle Jesse" and " Uncle Phil" Merchants Building Union Building Chamber of Commerce Building Its Beautiful Interior Marble Mosaics and Bronze Tacoma Building Otis, Major, Republic, Bryan Buildings The Temple Descrip- tion of the Beautiful Structure Calumet and Home Insurance Build- ingsThe Union National Bank Armour & Co. The Rookery Board of Trade District. To-day I propose that we shall begin on Lake St. and walk sou oh on La Salle st. toward the Board of Trade. We will try to reach that building before night, but there will be many attractions to detain us on the way among them some of the grandest and greatest buildings on the globe. La Salle is now, and has been for many years, the money street of the city. It is a street given over almost exclusively to banking, brokerage, insur- ance, real estate and general office purposes. Dearborn st. is its only rival. It is safe to say that there is a greater amount of business transacted on La Salle than on any street in the city. All this business, outside of the transactions on the Board of Trade, is done in offices, and to meet the demand for offices the immense and elegant structures which line the street on either side were erected. Before reaching these, however, we must notice the Marine Building, on the N. E. Cor. Lake and La Salle, not so much on account of its size and beauty, but because of the associations connected with it. The building was originally erected to accommodate " The Marine Bank," at one time a great financial institution, at the head of which was the late John Young Scammon. The building, which has recently been enlarged and reconstructed, is owned by the Marine association, which is composed of Charles L. Hutchinson, Henry C. Durand, John H. Dwight and C. H. Ham- ill. It is a seven-story structure, architecturally ornate and perfect in all its appointments and conveniences. To our right, near the mouth of the tunnel, we come upon a three-story building, No. 49, under the cornice of which we see the name "Jackson Hall." This was "Long" 1 John Went worth' 1 8 Contribution to the rebuilding of Chicago. It will not be deemed unkind to the memory of the dead, but rather the state- ment of an historical fact, when I tell you that perhaps there has never lived in Chicago a man with the means of doing much within his grasp, who did less for the material benefit of the city than "Long" John Wentworth. And it would not be worth while to speak of this here, were it not for the other historical fact that during the greater part of his lifetime "Long" John Wentworth talked like a man who had biiilt the city at his own expense and presented it ready-made to the public. On the opposite side of the street, across the mouth of the timnel, is The Metropolitan Block, a fine building of the fire period, but hardly up to the present standard. Just over the way, No. 48, is the office of the Spaulding Lumber Company. Here you will see, at his desk, in a little ante- room, the Hon. Jesse Spaulding, millionaire lumberman, formerly collector at this port, and a. man of great prominence and large influence on the Republican eidt; of politics. A plain man is [Engraved for The Standard Guide Company.] "THE TEMPLE," LA SALLE AND MONROE STS. [See Pages 94-194-] 90 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. " Uncle Jesse" as he is familiarly called, and as hard a worker as you will find on the street. "Uncle Jesse" and "Uncle" "Phil" Armour the twenty-millionaire, whom we will see farther down are great chums and mutual admirers. A genuine regard, bordering upon school boy affection, exists between them. These two men might have left off Work ten years ago with fortunes large enough to make themselves and their families comfort- able during all the years of their lives, but they are happier at their desks than they could possibly be anywhere else. On our right, at the S. W. Cor. of Randolph st., is the remodeled Lafayette Building, where you will find a number of ocean steamship agencies and the French consul. Here is the private banking house of Peterson & Bay. On the opposite side of the street, for an entire block, is the La Salle st. front of the City Hall. To your right, on the corner of the alley, is the Merchants National Bank, which occupies a building made notorious in 1877 by the failure of the State Savings Institution, of which D. D. Spencer was president. The failure of this bank caused great distress among a very large number of industrious working people, and resulted in two or three suicides. Spencer fled to Europe, and lived in the vicinity of Stuttgart for several years. He returned to Chicago recently, a broken-down man. The fail- ure of the State Savings Institution was followed by the closing of the Fidel- ity Savings bank, the Merchants, Farmers and Mechanics ("Bee Hive") Savings bank, and some others, and brought savings institutions generally into disrepute. The bank at present occupying- the building is one of the most substantial in the country. [See " Merchants National Bank."] On the N. W. Cor. of Washington st. is the Merchants Building, in which is located the National Bank of America, one of our leading banking houses. [See " National Bank of America."] The Merchants building 1 was erected shortly after the fire, when sandstone was the favorite building material, and when it was customary to carry the main floor to some height above the street level. It was one of the finest buildings in the city until the new era of architecture set in. Directly across Wash- ington st., on the next corner to our right, is The Union Building, which will be replaced before the close of 1894 by the new Stock Exchange building, to be erected by the Peck estate. The Ex- change finds itself cramped for room in its present quarters. The new building will be one of the handsomest in the city. The Union building has been one of the most familiar in the city, because for years the lower and upper floors were occupied as the main Western Union telegraph office. In 1892 the Western Union Telegraph Company purchased the Phoenix building [see "Buildings,"] on Jackson st., opposite the Grand Pacific Hotel, where the central office is now located. Many banking institutions have occupied the first floor of the Union building. The headquarters of the Military Division of the Missouri were located on the fourth floor of this building for many years, and General Phil. Sheridan occupied the corner room of that story facing Washington and La Salle sts. from the completion of the building after the fire until his assumption of the generalship of the army. The Union National Bank occiipied the corner of the first floor for a number of years, and it was during this time that W. F. Coolbaugh, its president, committed suicide at the foot of the Douglas monument. Across the street, on the S. E. Cor. of Washington and La Salle, is the famous. Chamber of Commerce Building.-- This structure occupies the site of the old Chamber of Commerce which was erected immediately after the fire and which was occupied by the Board of Trade until the great commercial edi- fice at the foot of the street was completed. The new Chamber of Commerce building is in many respects the finest commercial struc-Uire in the world and certainly one of the grandest office buildings in the United States. The property upon which it stands cost $650,000 and' the building itself has cost Messrs. Hannah, Lay & Co., the owners, over $1,000,000. Standing upon the THE GUIDE. 91 mosaic floor on the first story in the center of the building, throwing back your head and looking up, you will see Twelve Balconies with their bronzed railings, rising in perfect sym- metry above you. Away at the top and crowning this grand central court, is probably the largest skylight in the world. It is a plate-glass arch, thirty- five feet wide and 108 feet long, and its weight is supported on iron and copper frames which rest upon iron trusses. The frame is bronzed and finished handsomely. Through this mammoth window in the roof A Perfect Flood of Light penetrates the central court, so that the interior of the building is almost as brightly illuminated as the exterior during the day. As you look up, if your neck will bear the strain, you will notice that not a post or a pillar is visible along the sides or between the twelve balcon- ies, other than those at the north and south ends, the intervening stretch being perfectly clear and free from obstruction. The twelve balconies are supported on The Cantilever Principle. There are 500 office rooms in this structure, every one of which is perfectly lighted. The thirteenth floor isfinished as handsomely as the first. You will notice that the mar- ble used in the wains coting from top to bottom is per- fectly matched, the grain running through from slab to slab as perfectly as it did in its native Italian quarry. All of this marble was quarried in Italy and finished in Belgium. The mosaic floors contain millions of separate marble blocks and present a beautiful as well as a novel sight to the visitor. The ceil- ing of the main entrance is a Charming Bit of Mosaic Work ; the bronze railings and elevator shaft gratings are all highly finished. Eight passenger cars and two great freight cars are con- stantly moving up and down between the thirteen stories of this magnificent structure. We will go to the top, the time consumed in the trip being a minute and a quarter, counting stopp- ages. Looking down, the people on the floor of the court below seem like pigmies. The Height Makes Us Dizzy, and we move away from the bronze railing fearing that the natural but unaccountable temptation to throw ourselves over it may gain the mastery of us. The Chamber of Commerce building is a city within itself. There are more people doing business inside its walls than you will find in many prosperous towns, and the amount of business transacted here daily equals that done in some of the most pretentious communities in the country. Every branch of commerce and nearly every profession is represented here. We can spend a couple of hours here very pleasantly, strolling along the different balconies and taking observations CHAMBER OP COMMERCE. See Buildings. 92 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. of the multitude of people who are constantly streaming into and out of the elevator cars. Leaving the Chamber of Commerce, we find that it is almost noon, and we will take a lunch at Kern's across the way, or at Kohlsaat's, on the corner of the court, east of the Chamber of Commerce building. In either place we will witness an interesting sight. Thousands of business men, clerks, etc., flock to these and similar restaurants in the business center daily, where they partake of hasty luncheons, made up principally of sandwiches, beans, pie, coffee and buttermilk. The food is generally well prepared, but it is eaten in haste, as a rule, which does much toward ruining the health and souring the dispositions of our people. As we move down LaSalle St., after luncheon, we pass on our right The Mercantile Building. Here we find the old and respectable banking house of Greenbaum & Sons [see Greenbaum & Sons] , and on the corner of the alley just south the other equally respectable banking house of A. Loeb & Bro. On the N. E. Cor. Madison and La Salle is the beautiful Tacoma Building, towering above its surroundings to the dizzy height of fourteen clear stories. This was among the first of the modern sky- scrapers erected in Chicago. The corner which it occupies was for years covered by a tumble-down brick building put up in haste after the fire. It was wiped out to make room for the "Tacoma." We must spend some time in this building, going to the top by elevator and walking down. From the twelfth story we are able to obtain a splendid bird's-eye view of the city, and we can see far out on Lake Michigan, if the smoke isn't too dense. This is a colony of offices. [See "Buildings."] What all the people who occupy the offices do, will be a source of wonder to the visitor throughout this and several other trips, but as they are all occupied and pay high rent- als, it is presumed that they are doing something to coax the almighty dollar in their direction. Otherwise they would seek cheaper quarters or establish themselves on the curb-stone in front. Crossing Madison st. we find on the S. W. Cor. The Otis Building. The building belongs to a branch of the Otis family, a family, by the way, which owns some of the most desirable real estate in the city. It is a building of the fire period, not up to present requisites, althoiigh by reason of its central location, it is well and profitably ten- anted. On the S. E. Cor. is The Major Block, another fine structure of the same period. For years this ranked as one of the finest buildings of the city. In any other city it would rank as a great building now, but it is overshadowed by the giants in its neighborhood. Just east of the Major Block, on the corner of Arcade ct. is the new T.M. C.A. Building, This building covers a lot which has 52 feet frontage on La Salle St., and 185 feet frontage on Arcade court, all but 75 feet of which is abundantly lighted either by the street or a thirty foot court. Two-thirds of the space within this building is utilized for association purposes and the remainder is given over to offices, The ground floor on La Lalle st. is rented for stores. The association uses two stories on the La Salle ,st. side. and seven stories in the rear on Arcade ct. It is a building within a building, the architectural arrangement providing for separate entrances on both sides for the association and for those who rent offices, so that the two classes of tenants have no connection with each other. From the seventh, or gymnasium floor, where the association's rooms end, there is a square light shaft, 18 x 29 feet, running to the top story, so that the interior of the building resembles the Rookery in its facilities for light. The building and the prop- erty it stands upon represents an investment of about $1,400,000. This struct- ure is fully described elsewhere. [See "Buildings."] The people we pass are as interesting as the buildings. We are apt to be jostled against the famous produce and grain operators at any point now and we will not know it unless we have a previous acquaintance with their personal appearance. On this street many millionaires have their offices. We must say a word about the 94 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. Bryan Block before we go any farther or we will forget it. Bryan Block is another of the back-number great buildings of the city. I very well re- member that fifteen years ago it was pointed out with pride ; now it isn't pointed out at all. It is oecupied, however, by the agencies of great insur- ance companies, real estate men, bankers, brokers, etc., and its central location makes it one of the most valuable pieces of property iu the city. Some day a great building will occupy the site, for the ground upon which it stands is far too valuable for a five-story edifice. Across the street is the Old Republic Life Building. The insurance company from which it derived its name has long since gone out of existence. This building was used by the Custom House and United States courts for several years after the fire, or until the present government building was erected. Now it is an office building. Here are located the rooms of the Builders' Exchange, as well as the offices of Dunn's Commercial Agency. On the corner below, just east of the Rep\iblic building, is The Nixon Building, the only structure in the business part of the city which escaped destruction in the great fire. A lab is embedded in the building informing you of that fact. It was not completed at the time, how- ever. [See "Buildings"]. We are now at the cor. of La Salle and Monroe sts. This is the southwest corner of the streets named. Here a few years ago Marshall Field laid the foundations for a great office building. A legal dispute arose between him and his from business partner, Mr. Letter, who owned property adjoining, the facts concerning which it is not necessary for you to know, and the work was abandoned. The lot was fenced in for three or four years, 3 nd finally The Women's Christian Temperance Union secured a ninety-nine year lease of the property from Mr. Field, organized a syndicate with sufficient capital and began the erection of a structure to be known as the Temper- ance Temple. The familiar name of this building now, however, is " The Temple." The Temple, as it now stands, is one of the sights of Chicago, and the equal of any one of the many magnificent structures that now adorn the city. In style it is a combination of the old Gothic and the more modern French. For the first two stories the material used is gray granite with a dash of pink running through it. Above that is used pressed brick and terra cotta. This harmonizes nicely with the granite, taking on a tone and color the same, with the exception that it is a darker pink. The frontage on La Salle st.is 190 feet, while on Monroe st. it is 90 feet. In shape the Temple is somewhat novel and might be likened to the letter H. It con- sists of two immense wings united by a middle portion, or viaculum. On LaSalle st. is a court 70 feet long and 30 feet wide, and on Monroe st. a simi- ilar one of the same length and 18 feet deep. Facing The Grand Entrance and arranged in a semi-circle are eight great eleva- tors, and from the front court rise two grand stairways leading clear to the top of the building. A central hall extends north and south on each floor and a transverse one also extends into the wings. The lower courts and halls are resplendent with marble mosaic paving, while plain marble is used in the upper halls. In height the temple is a "sky-scraper," extending thirteen stories towards the heavens. A peculiar and pleasing effect has been gained by causing the building line to retreat at the tenth story where the immense roof, containing three stories, commences, breaking as it ascends, into Gothic Turrets. On the granite around the grand entrance are carved the coats of arms of the various States of the union. Upon the corner stone is engraved the national legend of the W. C. T. U. " For God, for Home and Native Laud, 1890." On the reverse is the W. C. T. U. monogram and beneath, 'organized 1874." Such is the general appearance of this noble structure. The purposes for which it is utilized are manifold. On the lower floor are located three banks and a memorial hall, known as Willard Hall. It is needless to say that the name is in honor of Francis Wlllard. The audience room will easily seat 800 people without the galleries THE GUIDE. 95 and is as entirely shut off from the rest of the building as though it were not in it. The entrance is through a wide hall opening off Monroe st. It is a*n amphitheatre in shape and in the center is a beautiful fountain. Nearly every window in it is a handsome memorial one, and from numerous pedes- tals rise the busts of illustrious persons who have lived and died for The Cause of Temperance. The hall and the entrance leading to it are used as tablets on which to inscribe the names of those who have sub- scribed the sum of $100 or over to the building fund. In a large vault opening off the hall will be kept a record of the work done in each State in the Union. In short, Willard hall is intended to be to the temperance cause what West- minster Abbey is to England's great celebrities. The Woman's National Publishing house find headquarters there, as well as the W. C. T. U. Most of the building, however, is rented and the income from this source is $25,000 a year. It might be mentioned that little wood has been used in the con- struction and the building is perfectly fire- proof. Work was begun in July, 1890, and The Temple was ready for occupancy in the month of May, 1892. The entire cost was about $1,000,000. Further south on La Salle St., at No. 187, is The Calumet Building, a magnificent modern office structure, and one of the first of the great buildings erected after the locating of the Board of Trade at the foot of the street. The Calumet would be a more striking piece of architecture to-day if it were not so close to some others which are still more striking. For instance, The Home Insurance Building at No. 205, just south of the Calumet, on the same side of the street. [See "Buildings."] This magnificent pile was originally nine stories in height, but two additional stories were added in 1890-91, making it one of the tallest structures, as well as one of the most graceful, in the city. The grand entrance on La Salle st. is one of peerless beauty a veritable marble hall, and a portal such as no palace in Europe can boast of. The entire building from the first to the eleventh floor is wains- coted in Italian marble of the finest vein, and is beautifully matched and polished. Messrs. Ducat & Lyon have had the management of the magnifi- cent edifice in charge from its inception to the present time. As you enter the building two flights of Marble Stairways face you, both leading to an entresol, on the right of which is the Union National bank [see " Union National Bank,"] and on the left the counting houses of Arm our & Co. The Union National Bank interior is perhaps the most beautiful in Chicago. The ceiling is supported by great bronzed columns. The furniture and fixtures are all rich and elegant, and were provided by the house of A. H. Andrews & Co. The Union National Bank ranks among the first of the great financial institutions of the city. It is a bank that has been especially favored in having had for its presidents, some of Chicago's ablest and most exper- ienced financiers, and to this is mostly due its prompt rush to the front line of the city banks, and its maintenance of that position for so many years. The first president was William F. Coolbaugh, who at his death, which occurred in November, 1877, was succeeded by Calvin T. Wheeler. On the expiration of its original charter December 30, 1884, the bank was re-organized, and under its new charter, W. C. D. Grannis was chosen president, and John J. P. Odell, 'vice-president. Mr. C.R. Cumminga was made president in 1886, but took no active part in the management of the bank. Upon his retirement Mr. John ./. P. Odell became president and has continued in that position up to the present date. Mr. Odell has been identified with the banking busi- ness of Chicago since 1865, and for twenty-seven years has been connected with the Union National, having entered its service in 1866, as bookkeeper and in the interval filled almost every intermediate position of responsibility in the bank. Let us walk across the entresol and enter the counting-room of Armour & Co. This is one immense office taking in the entire first floor space of the north wing of the building. Did you ever see such a hive? There must be three lumdred employes of all grades here, the 96 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. majority of whom are writing at little desks arranged in a manner sug- gestive of the school-room. A great many of those who are not writing are managers of departments and these are talking business to callers. You cannot see anybody unless you are announced by young men standing near the door. They call the person you want to see. The person you want to see has other callers and you must wait. The central figure in this great room, of course, is Mr. P. D. Armour. He sits at a table desk to the left, and may be engaged in looking over a newspaper, or in conversation with a visitor or one of his department managers. Whatever he is doing he has a pleasant, benevolent, kindly expres- sion on his face, and his face is the index to his character. Mr. Armour, to- ward the close of 1892, pre- sented the city of Chicago with the Armour Manual Training School, which, with its endowment, amounted to the princely sum of $1,700,000. [See " Armour Mission " and " Armour Institute."] The name of Armour & Co. is familiar to the people of all countries. It is inter- esting to notice with what perfect system the estab- lishment is conducted. Of course, we don't see the bustling side of it in the counting house; we must go to the stock yards for that. [See " Union Stock Yards."] The Northwestern Ma- sonic Aid Association, of Chicago, the largest insur- ance company in Illinois, and the second largest simiTar organization in the world, has its home office in this building, occu- pying nearly all of the tenth floor, which is re- Suired for the accommoda- on of its immense busi ness. Here is received and disbursed to the widows and orphans of its deceased members about $2,000,000 annually. A visit to their offices will be of interest, for there can be seen the thorough system neces- sary to the successful prosecution of the business of life insurance. And the president, Daniel J. Avery, or the secretary, J. A. Stoddard, will give us a cordial welcome, for they invite inspection of their business. On the opposite side of the street, up one flight of stairs, in a plainly furnished office overlooking Adams St., we might find the millionaire, George L. Dunlap, who during recent years has practically retired from active service, although he is still a power in the money center. On the S. W. Cor. of La Salle and Adams sts. is the beautiful TACOMA BUILDING. See Buildings. 98 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. Insurance Exchange Building, which ranks among the noblest of the Board of Trade group of office buildings. Its facade is sufficiently orna- mental to attract our attention, but it is tasteful and elegant. The building has a handsome main entrance. To the right, on the main floor is the Continental National bank, a great financial institution; to the left is the Columbia National bank. These banking rooms are richly furnished, and are worth visiting. The Continental is one of the oldest, the Columbia one of the youngest of our National banks. Around the corner on Adams st. is the Rand-McNally building, in which were located the headquarters of the World's Fair previous to their removal to Jackson Park. Across the street, on the S. E. Cor. of La Salle and Adams st., is the Rookery Building. How it came by this odd name is explained else- where. [See " Miscellaneous."] Chicago people are not exactly settled in their minds as to whether the Rookery or the Chamber of Commerce is the finest office building in the city. The Rookery is the larger, however, and in many respects the most elegant of our office structures. It cost, exclu- sive of the grounds upon which it stands (the property of the municipality), very nearly $1,500,000. It is finished in the most expensive fashion through- out. There isn't a cheap feature connected with it. The grand rotunda is in itself a beavitiful bit of architecture, but the building to be properly appreciated must be taken as a whole. There are few commercial struct- ures in the world that compare with it in size, in elegance or in convenience. There are three distinct groups of elevators, two on the La Salle st. and one on the Monroe st. side, and the people occupying the top floors are practi- cally as well situated, so far as accessibility is concerned, as those on the first floor. The mosaic work in the structure is superb. Like the Chamber of Commerce and the Home Insurance buildings, the wainscoting is all of Italian marble. Every room is lighted perfectly. There is not the slightest jar felt here, and those in the upper stories are practically removed from the noise and bustle of the streets below. There are over five hundred offices here, all occupied, the tenants being principally Board of Trade men, agents of eastern and foreign mercantile houses, agents of manufacturing con- cerns, real estate dealers, brokers and lawyers. [See "Buildings."] Here is located the Globe National Bank, one of the most prosperous of our great money institutions. As we leave the Rookery, we are in the center of the Board of Trade district and we are surrounded by massive struct- ures. Opposite is Mailer's building, the Gaff building and the Counselman building, all great structures, towering upward from ten to twelve stories. To our left, as we move south, is the Grand Pacific hotel [see "Hotels"], and facing us the Board of Trade Building. [See "Board of Trade Building."] It is only necessary for me to show you up the main stairway and leave you here for the next two hours. You are just in time to see the Board in full operation. From the gallery you will have a perfect view of the floor. After you leave there you will have time to go through the Rialto building in the rear, and, perhaps, to see the great buildings which line Pacific ave. on the one side and Sherman st. on the other. Among the structures worthy of a visit are the Phoenix building, which faces the Grand Pacific ; the Grand Pacific itself; the Traders building, 10 Pacific ave.; the Commerce building, 16 Pacific ave. ; the Open Board building, 24 Pacific ave. ; the Brother Johna- than building, 2 Sherman st. ; the Wheeler building, 6 Sherman st. and the Royal Insurance building, situated on Jackson st. between La Salle and Fifth ave., and at the head of Sherman st., almost opposite the Board of Trade. The Royal Insurance building, in accordance with the latest dic- tates of modern architecture, is composed of a pressed brick rear with an imposing facade of brown sandstone carved into beautiful figures. The style may be termed Ionic, with an admixture of Corinthian on the lower floors, where the windows and main entrances are arched and sculptured in many fanciful designs. The interior appointments are on a scale of mag- nificence in keeping with the interior design. The offices are large, well lighted and well ventilated. This building practically fronts on two streets Jackson and Quincy. By the time you have visited these buildings you THE GUIDE. 99 will need rest. (It will aid you greatly during this trip to study the depart- ments in this volume under headings "Board of Trade," "Board of Trade Building," " Buildings," " Banks," "Commercial Exchanges." and the "Ap- pendix.") * NINTH Df\Y. The Board of Trade District After the Fire A Tough Neighborhood Through " Cheyenne " and the " Levee "In the Depths of the Slums South Clark Street Dives Lodging Houses " Reconstructed Cheyenne "The Great Structures of South Dearborn Street A Thoroughfare Lined with Sky- scrapers Chinatown North on Clark Street Gambling Houses- Would-be Sports Bunco Steerers Confidence Men Dale & Sempill's Corner A Great Meeting Place Survey from Clark and Madison Streets North on Clark Street to the Bridge. Before leaving the Board of Trade district, a few words concerning that portion of the city may be of interest to you. The great |fire of 1871 left the neighborhood perfectly bare as far south as Harrison st. For nearly ten years after the fire the only buildings of prominence in that section of the city were the Grand Pacific hotel and the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific depot. The lat- ter could be seen plainly from Madison st. The block in front, now covered by the Board of Trade and the Rialto buildings, was vacant. To the east was Pacific, then known as "Biler," ave., one of the most disreputable streets in the city, built up with hastily constructed tenements which were occupied by the most depraved of men and women, black, white and mixed. The name " Biler " Avenue, originated in the mispronunciation of " Boiler" a nick- name given to the street, because of the number of locomotives belonging to the Rock Island and Lake Shore roads which puff day and night along its west- ern edge. Next, to the east, came South Clark st., a thoroughfare given over to low saloons, pawnbrokers' shops, "fences" for thieves, concert saloons, dance houses, low groggeries and bagnios. East of Clark st. was Fourth ave., another street surrendered almost entirely to the lowest class of scarlet women. One high building stood on the street and was occupied in part by the Religio-Philosophical Journal. Its editor, a man named Pike, was mur- dered at his desk in this building, about the time I am speaking of. East of Fourth ave., was Dearborn st., a "no thoroughfare," and without a build- ing worth mentioning, although squatters had taken possession of it from Jackson st. south to Polk st. East of Dearborn st. was Third ave., a street of dives and bagnios just a trifle lower than any yet named. Then came State st., which, from Van Buren to Twenty-second st. was occupied by the very Scum of the Population, and utterly abandoned to crime and criminals. The entire district, from VanBiiren st. south to Twenty-second st., and from the railroad tracks to and including the east line of State st., was in the hands of thugs, thieves, murderers and prostitutes. In the midst of it was the Harrison st., or "Armory" police station, and the policemen who were sent out to do patrol duty in this section were frequently brought back on stretchers. There were portions of the district which no policeman would dare to enter alone in the daytime, and which it would have been suicidal for him to enter in the night-time. Some of the bravest officers on the force were shot or stabbed, or beaten so badly that they were never again able to perform their duties. The territory received the name of "Cheyenne." This name was given to it because when the Union Pacific railroad was being constructed, and for several years afterward, Cheyenne 100 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. was the wickedest town on the line. To-day Cheyenne is a peaceable and prosperous little city and its people have retaliated by dubbing the only disorderly part of their town "Chicago." South State st. was known for " The Levee,"- a name which still clings to it in police circles, although it has gone through an almost complete transformation, physically and morally. The name " Levee " was used because the levees of the Mississippi river towns bore the reputation of being generally tough, and because they were and are the haunts of a vicious class of negroes. The entire negro population of Chicago gravitated toward "Cheyenne" and the "Levee" before and after the great fire, and South Clark and South State sts., to-day are much frequented by colored people. A Mighty Change has come over this district during a decade. Pacific ave. is no longer given over entirely to the vicious and criminal classes as formerly, although I wouldn't advise you to take your evening walks on the southern part of it. Many magnificent commercial structures now line this thorough- fare. On the avenue, opposite the Rock Island depot, is Marshall Field & Co.'s barn, a splendid building in itself and devoted to the use of the firm's magnificent draught horses and the men who care for them. This building has been enlarged during recent years and I am told that some of the upper floors are used for the storage of "reserve stock." In view of the fact that the firm has the largest wholesale building in the city ; that it occupies its old wholesale store as a warehouse for reserve goods, and that it carries constantly an immense amount of stock in the U. S. bonded warehouses, this will strike you as being strange. But it seems as though it is difficult for Marshall Field & Co. to find storage room enough. A trip down South Clark St. will be interesting- The morals of this thoroughfare have not improved very much during recent years. Modern improvements have steadily encroached, however, upon the rookeries which have lined this artery since the fire, and now south of Jackson St., we find some hand- some structures of the most modern type, notably the Hotel Grace, Gore's hotel and McCoy's hotel. But further to the south are the dens and dives that have made the street infamous. Just here, at the S. E. Cor. of Van Buren and Clark sts., is the Pacific Mission. For years it was Jerry Mon- roe's "Pacific Garden," and a resort of the vilest of the vile. A few doors below, a Polish Jew, named Lesser Freidberg, kept a pawn-broker's shop and "fence" for thieves about eleven years ago. One night the branch house of E. S. Jaffrey & Co., of New York, which occupied the .building on Fifth ave. between Madison and Washington sts., now The Mail, office, was entered by burglars and robbed. The stolen goods were placed in a wagon, which was driven to Freidberg's. Just as the burglars were unloading it, a police officer named Race came along. His suspicions were aroused, and he attempted to cap- ture one of the thieves supposed to be Johnny Lamb. The thiel shot him dead, right here, in front of the shop, jumped into the wagon and drove off. Lamb and another thief named "Sheeny George" were arrested, tried, con- victed and sentenced to be hanged, but escaped all punishment for this crime finally. Freidberg was sent to the penitentiary for five years. He was a wealthy man at the time of his arrest. The last time I saw him he was mending convict's clothing in the penitentiary at Joliet, about the most humiliating work that could possibly be assigned him. He came out and found that his wife had secured a divorce. His property was all gone. He was arrested a short time ago for vagrancy. There is a moral here, but you may not see it. Pawn-brokers'' Shops and Clothing Stores kept by Polish Jews are to be found all along here. Wherever you find poverty and vice you will also find pawn-brokers' shops. They seem to pull together. I don't know how many of them are " fences " for thieves now, but you may rest assured that some of them are. Only a short time ago just such an institution us that man- aged by the late Mr. Fagin was broken up down here. In this instance the fence-keeper's name was Levi. Here we pass concert saloons conducted by a class of men who bear a name which I need not mention. Here also we i [Engraved for The Standard Guide Company.] POLICE MONUMENT, HAYMARKET SQUARE. [See Page 3 1 8.1 103 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. come upon "gin mills," conducted by bloated and murderous-looking ruffi- ans, who will first stupify and then rob you, if you give them a chance. It is in these dives that men are "doped." If there were fewer of them there would be fewer "floaters" picked up in the Chicago river, Here we pass the brothels and bagnios, where depraved women, white and black, pursue their avocations and carry on, in company with the males of their class, Nightly Orgies that are either unseen or unnoticed by the police. Respectable people are not in much danger down here, for the very good reason that re- spectable people are sel- dom to be found loitering around this neighborhood. We are in the slums. It was quite the "fad" in fashionable circles not long since to " go slumming," and the city detectives were frequently requested to conduct a party of young ladies and gentlemen through the vicious parts of the city. It is no longer a "fad," although the practice has by no means died out. Such an excur- sion has its advantages as well as its drawbacks. While a young lady cannot very well see anything during A "Slumming" Trip that is not repugnant to her finer sensibilties, and while she will see much that is shocking, or ought to be, to her modesty, yet she will learn that the path of vice is a thorny one, ' and that her fallen sisters are more in need of her pity than they are deserv- ing of her scorn. While the great majority of the lewd women of the city spring from the lower ranks of society, and are, as a mat- ter of f act,born into vicious- ness, a great number of them are girls who were well born, well reared and well educated. The causes of their downfall are in- numerable, and,-strange as it may appear, but very few of them can trace their ruin back to the deceit or perfidy of man. In not an inconsiderable number of instances these fallen women who came from the higher walks of society owe their misfortune primarily to an ambition, unsupported by an ability, to shine as actresses. We might walk all over this district, and find merely a repetition of the scenes which surround us now. In a little while we will leave the district and the subject behind us. But first let us call your attention to PONTIAC BUILDING. See Buildings. THE GUIDE. 103 The Lodging Houses. There are cheap lodging- houses scattered through-' out the city. There are some on the North side and some on the West side, but the lowest class of lodging houses are located down this way. Here the wearied traveler may secure a night's lodging for five cents. That is, by going down into the cellar and paying over a nickel to the proprietor, he will be permitted to climb into one of the bunks ranged in tiers along either side of the dismal cavern. The bunk is without mattress or bedding. It is simply the soft side of a pine board. But it beats walking the streets. If it be winter, there is a blazing fire in a stove which stands in the middle of the cellar. If it be summer, the cellar is cool. No robberies are ever com- mitted in these cellars, for obvious reasons. There are no signs cautioning guests to place their jewelry and money in the office safe. Such a caution would be looked upon as heartless and bitter irony. But there are Cellars where the traveler, for ten cents, may secure a bunk with a straw mattress. These are considered among the patrons of the five-cent cellars palaces of guilded luxury. Again, there are lodging houses where a bedstead a real bedstead with real bedding and real bed covering may be secured per night at the uniform rate of fifteen cents. And a single room can be rented for twenty-five cents. But only the aristocrats of "Cheyenne" and the ' ' Levee " squander their money for twenty-five cent rooms. Twenty-five cents, to most of the lodging-house patrons, means three drinks of barrel- house whisky, a free lunch, a cigar and a bed. No portion of the city has undergone a more complete transformation and reformation during the past ten years than that section which is penetrated on the north by Fourth ave., Dearborn st. and Third ave. As before remarked. Dearborn st., up to ten years ago, was not even opened. To-day it is lined, from Adams to Polk st., with some of the Most Magnificent Buildings in the city. The post office and custom house, sometimes called the government building, stood practically alone here for many years, except that it was faced by the Grand Pacific hotel and the Lakeside building on the west, and by the Honore block on the north. Now it is hemned in on all sides by palatial structures. On the S. E. Cor. Adams and Dearborn is the beautiful Owings building, which rises to the height of fourteen stories, presenting a novel and interesting innovation in architect- ural design. Just north of the building, and directly opposite the post office, is the sixteen-story steel building, which is known as the Great Northern Hotel. This is now one of the largest first-class hotels of Chicago. It is all finished in the highest style of art and conducted as a high-class commercial hotel on the European and American plans. On the S. W. Cor. Dearborn and Jackson sts. is * The Great Monadnock Building. This mammoth structure is sixteen stories high, and is composed of steel, granite, marble and pressed brick. Unlike most of the recently built office structures, it is what is known as a solid building; that is, the interior depends upon the massive walls instead of being an independent frame. On the Jackson and Dearborn st. fronts two sets of bay windows run from the second story to the top. The fotindations and walls are said to be the heaviest of any building in the city. This structure was erected as an office block for the Brooks estate. Origi- nally it was called the Monadnock and Kearsarge building, but only the for- mer name was retained upon its completion. The completion of the south- ern addition to the Monadnock, which faces upon Van Buren st., makes this the greatest office buildings in the city, if they are to be considered as one structure. Considering both these structures as one (although the southern part is built upon an entirely different principle), it has a total street front- age of 940 feet. The cost of the grounds and both buildings was in the neighborhood of $3,000,000. The Chicago, Alton & St. Louis, the Michigan Central and many other railway and railway supply offices are located here. Diagonally opposite, at the N. E. Cor. Dearborn and Van Buren sts., is the Old Colony Building, erected by the Bartlett estate, which cost about $600,000. This is one of the handsomest office buildings in the city. [See " Buildings."] Passing a number of great buildings, we come to 104 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. The Manhattan Building. This colossal fire-proof structure overtopped until recently every other office building- in the city by at least three stories. Being situated on the leading business and financial street in Chicago, near the post office, depots and Board of Trade, with which it is connected by pneu- matic tubes, it has become a very popular structure. It cost $800,000. It has sixteen stories and basement of solid masonry and an inner frame of steel and iron, incased in terra cotta. The interior is embellished with orna- mental bronze and antique copper, polished marble and jasper wainscoting, mosaic floors and ornamental ceilings. The small amount of woodwork that enters into the structure is antique oak. The appointments as to ele- vator service, electric light, heat and general conveniences embrace every improvement known to modern science. The Monon Building farther to the south on the right, is a very handsome and popular office building, and is occupied by persons more or less related to the printing and publishing business. The cost of the Monon was $500,- 000. The Cctxton Building deserves our attention. This elegant structure, at 328 to 334 Dearborn St., is one of three buildings, of its kind, erected in this city. It is thoroughly fire-proof throughout, constructed of steel beams and girders. The walls are of terra cptta and pressed brick, of the best quality, and the partitions are of hollow tile. The offices are large and commodious and in their plans especial care has been taken to finish them in a manner affording the greatest convenience and comfort to the occupants. Just south, on the corner of Harrison and Dearborn sts., is the Pontiac Building. This is another wonderful structure, fourteen stories in height, and constructed entirely of steel. A large number of publishers may be found here. The Graphic, The Exposition Graphic, The Figaro, The Western British American, Farm Tools, Furniture, Orange Judd Farmer, and other literary and trade and class newspapers are issued from this building. Here also is located the Credit Company, publisher of The Credit Review, Bankers' and Attorneys' Register, etc. In this building is located the pub- lishing offices of The Standard Guide Company (Flinn and Sheppard), pub- lishers of " THE STANDARD GUIDE TO CHICAGO," " HAND BOOK OF THE WORLD'S COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION," GUIDE TO THE WORLD'S FAIR GROUNDS AND BUILD- INGS," in English, French and Gern>an; "THE BEST THINGS TO BE SEEN AT THE WORLD'S FAIR," "CONDENSED GUIDE TO CHICAGO," "HAND BOOK OP CHICAGO BIOGRAPHY," etc., all standard reference books, besides numerous souvenirs. Directly across the street from the Pontiac is the great Ellsworth Building, fronting on Dearborn st. and Plymouth Place (form- erly Third ave.). This is a fourteen story structure of pressed brick finished in granite, constructed on the steel frame plan [see "Buildings"] and is intended to accommodate printers, binders and publishers. Further south, to our left, we come to the great building occupied by Donahue & Henneberry, the printers, binders and publishers. This was one of the first of the great office buildings erected on South Dearborn st. It has a frontage also on Third ave. It is eight stories in height and finished after the most modern fashion. The upper part of the building is occupied by the various departments of Donohue & Henneberry 's establishment-counting rooms, offices, book-rooms, com posing rooms, bindery room, etc. The lower floors are given over to numerous publishing firms, newspaper offices, adver- tising offices, printers' supplies, offices, etc. The immense basement is occu- pied by Donohue & Henneberry's presses book, job, newspaper, etc., of the latest and most approved make. The firm of Donohue & Henneberry's is one of the most prominent in the United States. It turns out an immense number of bound volumes annually, besides catalogues and other printed matter of the higher grade. Leaving Donolme & Henneberry's we find our- selves in front of the beautiful Dearborn station. Let us retrace our steps to Clark and Adams sts. We are again in front of the post office. That is the bust of George B. Armstrong, founder of the United States railway mail service. He was a Chicago man and his memory is revered by all post office employes- 10(3 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. They contributed the money which paid for this memorial. If we go down Clark st. we will pass a section which seems to have been given over to Polish Jews, engaged in the clothing trade. The employes of these concerns accost you as yoii pass, and if you give them the least encouragement, they will drag you into their shops and compel you to buy whether you want to or not. The block south of Jackson swarms with these fellows. Below here is China Town [see "China Town"], where the Mongolians appear to be obtaining quite a foothold. Below this section are the slums already alluded to, which extend south to and beyond the Twelfth st. viaduct. The vicinity of this viaduct is the resort of the most degraded classes, male and female, to be seen in Chicago. " Barrel Nouses," where a vile concoction called whisky, but which is in fact, a preparation of raw alcohol, or high wines and tobacco juice, is sold at five cents per glass. These barrel houses produce the most aban- doned looking wretches you ever set your eyes upon. As we walk north from the Cor. Clark and Adams sts., we pass the railroad, ticket and scalp- er's offices already alluded to, as well as a number of quite genteel clothing establishments and restaurants. The restaurants are pretty thick around here and they are all doing a riishing business. Everything is a little more genteel here than further down the street. The pawn -shop up this way is no longer a pawn-shop. It is a " loan office." The saloon is a refreshment hall, with marble walls and marble floors, and elegant mirrors and oil paintings. The "bum" is not found in this vicinity, where whisky is fif- teen and twenty cents a drink. Splendid Business Lunches are served free in the saloons, and the bar- keepers wear spotless linen and genteel smiles. I do not think it advisable to point out to you the entrances to the mimerous gambling houses which line this thoroughfare. I don't think it any part of my duty as guide to ' steer " you against a brace game or a square game. If you are inclined in the direction of faro, roulette or poker, you do not need to be told where to find these games in full blast. I never knew an amateur gambler in my life who couldn't scent the lair of the tiger and hear the rattle of the chips afar off, By some sort of intuition or natural attraction, unaccounted for in my philosophy, Gamblers, Professional and Amateur, are certain to find a common meet- ing place. They will have no difficulty in finding all the amusement they want here, at any time of the day or night. Of course, you understand, as I do, that gambling is suppressed in Chicago. The Mayor and Superintend- ent of Police unite in the opinion that there is no gaming for money going on in the city, and that ought to settle it. Yet, we have been brushing up against well-dressed gamblers and would-be-sports for the past hour. I have spoken of the " Would-be- Sports." These are altogether about as contemptible a class of young men as you will be unfortunate enough to come in contact with during your visit. They are -found principally on the west side of Clark between Adams and Washington sts. They dress nattily and spend their time in posing, generally near the entrances to the gambling houses. As a rule they are the sons of well-to-do parents. They do not find it necessary to work for a living. The one ambition of their useless lives is to be pointed out as gamblers. They are not gamblers, however. They haven't got brains enough to be gamblers of the professional species. The men who follow Gambling as a Business haven't got time to pose. Usually they are not over proud of their calling and have no desire to be pointed out as sports. They work hard for all they get, just like other people. If they make gains to-day, they are likely to suffer losses to-morrow. They have their anxieties like the rest of us. Most of them have families. Many of them have nice wives and interesting children. Some of them live in highly respectable neighborhoods. They gamble only as a pure matter of business, and not because they are infatuated with the green cloth or the surroundings of the gaming table. You don't see these men posing in front of the saloons or THE GUIDE. 107 gambling house entrances, as I said before. They haven't got time. Neither they flash do Alaska Sparklers, nor wear lavender pantaloons, nor light kid gloves nor spend their time in "mashing" the foolish maidens, just past schoo. age, whom you may see tripping by here in the hope of catching smiles from the would-be sports. There are other young men along this street and around these corners who would also like to be known as gamblers. They are only thieves, however, and of the lowest order. They are cowardly thieves fellows who rob drunken men, or who can be hired to commit any- thing in the nature of a small crime. Some of them are " Bunco Steerers," ruffians who worm themselves into the confidence of strangers, and induce them to visit disreputable gaming houses where they are certain to be robbed. They do this business for a commission. The "Confidence" Man proper I can not point out to you, for if he be a confi- dence man, worthy of the name, there is nothing about his appearance or his man- ners to indicate that fact. But you may be certain that he is here, some where, and looking for a victim. He seldom makes a mistake. Before night some fool will cash the check he carries with him, or advance money on the warehouse receipts which he will produce at the proper moment. The most famous gambling house on the street for years was "The Store," kept by Michael C. McDonald, N. W. Cor. Clark and Monroe sts. McDonald coined money there. He is a Millioniare Now and one of the principal stockholders and managers of the Lake Street Elevated Railroad. Besides, he is an influential politician, and in his time has made and unmade a large number of local statesmen. The gam- bling houses now in existence are scattered throughoiit U. S. APPRAISERS BUILDING. -See Buildings. this neighborhood. The most prominent of them is the place conducted by a pei'son namec" Hankins near by. There is a magnificent saloon and sporting men's resort in the vicinity .conducted by a gentleman named Mr. Harry Varnell. We will let you find this place and several other places of the same kind, if you are seeking them. For the present we will leave the sporting men and the sporting men's resorts and step across Madison street to a corner that is full of present and historic interest to the Chicagoan. This was formerly known as "Dale's," it is now favorably and familiarly known as Dale & SempilVs. I don't believe there is a corner in this great city which is better known. This has been the case during all the years I can 108 GUIDE TO CHICAGO. remember in Chicago. Mr. Dale was a gentleman everybody 'liked. He kep* open house for the public, and hundreds and thousands of people have occupied the seats pi'ovided for those who are destined to wait for other people. Mr. Dale is succeeded by Mr. Sempill, another gentleman of the same hospitable disposition. You do not feel that you are intruding when you drop in here to wait for the friend who never comes, or to keep an appointment with the man who has been unavoidably delayed. Dale & Sempill do a great business while you are waiting. You are bound to admire the manner in which the business is managed, and your admiration extends to The Elegant Soda Fountain, where the thirst of countless thousands is quenched annually. It is well worth while to spend a little time here, if only to watch the crowds as they pass by. There is a procession of human- ity moving past the door, and you will wonder, as I have w r ondered hundreds of times, where all these people come from and where they are going to. Dale & Sempill's is known as "The City Drug Store." It is conducted on a high class plan. I would rather trust a prescription to one of Mr. Sempill's Young Men than to any young man I know of, for his employes are graduates of colleges of pharmacy; but more than that, they receive a training here which qualifies ihem for the delicate business that they have to perform. Let us stand on Dale & Sempill's corner a minute or two. We are likely to be jostled, but here is a good point of observation. To the south is Clark St., a busy thoroughfare in which there is constantly A Surging Mass of Humanity. That is the Grand Pacific hotel away down there, and just pelow it are "McCoy's " and other hotels of the second order. On the corner opposite is the Grace hotel, or Hotel Grace, whichever way you would put it. To the north is Clark st. also. From the bridge, which we see in the distance, to the south it is "South Clark street." There is the magnificent Ashland block, the Sherman house, the Court house and the Chicago Opera house, all great buildings. To the east we look down Madison st., which is as densely crowded at all hours of the day and night as any thoroughfare in the city. There is Wabash ave., State st, and Dear- born st. crossing it at right angles, and we notice a blockade of street cars, hansom cabs and w r agons at every intersection. You must keep your wits about you at these crossings. The policemen will do their best for you, but their best sometimes is not enough to prevent some unfortunate person from getting under the wheels. That is McVicker's theatre, and this side of it is the Tribune building. Across the street is the great Hartford build- ing, and opposite is the Inter-Ocean building. The buildings in our imme- diate vicinity are not "imposing" but they are all handsome business houses. There, diagonally across, is " Chambers' Corner," one of the most familiar landmarks in the city. Chambers' jewelry house is an establishment that received the stamp of public approval many years since. It is conducted on a plan which aims, first, to win the confidence of the people and next to respect it. You cannot get less than your money's worth in Chambers', whether you buy a ring, a watch or a diamond necklace. The windows, you see, are surrounded by people ; they always are ; they always have been, ever since I can remember. Next door west is Browning, King