m y y V ^ ^m 1 1 r V F ' V ' i / UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY Class Book Volume iLHNOIS HiSTORICM SURVEY ^Wi^/wV 1 s'RFfm mam . M , ' ' . ' -- TOf*! farrst^ s **^~ * I J> -.v.v^ ' . > : .' V ft *** IL "**j* The portrait is from a. flutoynipti Jl represents the Author with pencil and pprt t'i'lw in liand in the ftrf cfskettkauj /hw Nuturr -Vie likeness will /v rffi'tinr/s/1 l>\- nituiv in veaioltt fwfa.'pf n/ir f'fw/fry. wht> ,ww him trhilf on /< tour ttuvuqh the West . collecting materials and taking Sketches for Qie Enqravmys in t/u.f werk. r * " " ALL THE WESTERN STATES AND TERRITORIES, FROM THE ALLEGHANIES TO THE PACIFIC, AND FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF, CONTAINING Tlieir History from the Earliest Times, tvitl? Local History, Incidents of Pioneer Life, Military/ Events, Biographical Sketches; combined with full Geograph- ical Descriptions of the different States, Territories, Cities, and Towns; the whole being illustrated by 24:0 EIVGMfc^VIlVOS, presenting views of the Cities and Principal Towns, Public Buildings and Monuments, Battle Fields, His- toric Localities, Natural Curiosities, etc., principally from drawings taken on the spot by the Authors* JOHN W. N \BARBER, AUTHOR OP HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS O* CONNECTICUT, MASSACHUSETTS, *C., HENRY HOWE, AUTHOR OP HIST. COL'S OP VIRGINIA, OHIO, THE GREAT WEST, *C. CINCINNATI, 0. 3M"o. Ill Main. Street, HOWE'S SUBSCRIPTION BOOK CONCERN, ESTABLISHED BY HENKT HOWE IN 1847. F. A. HOWE, Proprietor. HENRY HOWE, Manager. 1867. 373 Entered according to Act of Congress in the year eighteen hundred and sixty-seven^ By F. A. HOWE, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of Ohio. < INTRODUCTORY. DURING the sad, tragic years of the Rebellion, a large two- volume work, by the authors of this, was published under the title of "Our Whole Country." It was modeled on the same general plan with the Historical Collections of Massachusetts and of Connecticut, by John W. Barber, and the Historical Collections of Virginia and of Ohio, by Henry Howe. That work was issued at great expense, consequent upon years of labor, extensive travel, and the drawing and engraving of many hundred original views of objects of interest in all parts of our land. This ex- pense was full fifteen thousand dollars before the first sheet of paper was bought upon which it was printed, and was an undi- vided enterprise of our own. The changed condition of a part of our country, united to the double expense of book publishing, compels us to alter the plan, and to issue the original work in two independent, separate books, with such changes in the materials as are demanded by the lapse of time and events. By, this means a choice of either will be given to such limited finances as can not grasp both. The one book will comprise "The Atlantic States, North, and South 5" the other is the present volume, "The Whole "West." The first-named will be preceded by an introduction giving the general history of the country, when will follow, in order, all the sea-board States, originally British colonies, and the old Spanish colony of Florida, the most ancient of them all, but of feeble nursing and of trivial growth. The book you hold comprises all of that immense territory comprehended under the term " The Great West." The six States of the South-west are herein grouped by them- selves; and the articles upon them, and the views of places 192435 therein, are especially interesting, as showing their condition and appearance at the outbreak of the late terrible struggle. From chaos may new and more graceful forms arise, and that unhappy people, whose valor and endurance have been so extra- ordinary, be soon lifted into clearer skies and to more pleasing visions. For obvious reasons, the events of the late intestine war have no place here. Their introduction would swell the work to too extensive proportions. Besides, it is to be expected that every family will possess volumes solely devoted to that topic which has entered so largely and thrillingly into the general experience of us all. Our frontispiece is a life-like portrait of Mr. John W. Barber. He is the principal author of this work, our part having been mainly to add to the materials collected by him through years of labor and travel. The picture is faithful, photographed from the original, and true to every article of costume, even to the antique carpet-bag on the sward at his feet. He is represented with pencil and portfolio in hand, in the act of sketching from nature. For the information of those unfamiliar with book pub- lishing, we here describe the process by which the pictures in this work were produced. 1st. They were drawn on the spot by the eye, in outline with pencil on paper, on a large scale. 2d. Reduced in outline on paper to the smaller scale of the engraving. 3d. These outlines again traced on wood, and shaded by an artist. 4th. Engraved ; a labor of several years, had only one engraver been employed. 5th. Stereotyped on the page with the type, ready for the printer. Owing to the position of many places, only a partial view could be given. To recognize any scene, the reader must be familiar with it from the point from whence the drawing was taken. As a general thing, they have been rendered with that care that any one with book in hand can readily place himself within a yard or two of the precise spot on which Mr. Barber stood. In our rapid growth and Aladdin-like changes, these views will soon pass into history, and be of even higher value than now as showing our country at the era of the great rebellion. INTRODUCTORY. 5 Mr. Barber, whom we have thus introduced to the reader, deserves so to be. He is a plain, unobtrusive old gentleman, who began life with only iLe solid education Connecticut gives all her sons born at the close of the administration of George Washington, in the century that is past with no especial pride, except in being a descendant of the Pilgrims, of whom he is a genuine, honest, and most unmistakable offshoot. His life has been one of untiring and useful industry, chiefly passed in com- piling books, every page of which has been created with a view to benefit the public. No man living in the Union has taken so many views of places in it as he, in making drawings for this and his various State work?. His books have gratified cli classes; the learned and unlearned, the old and young. A personal anec- dote is proper here. On a time, in the years now gone, we were rattled over the paving-stones of Broadway in an omnibus, and holding the first bound volume of a State work, the result of the joint labor of Mr. Barber and ourself. An elderly gentleman, in neat, and, as we thought, somewhat humble attire, leaned over to look at our book: then putting an inquiry, which we an- swered, he rejoined: "I have Mr. Barber's Connecticut and Mas- sachusetts, and I shall want that." A moment later, the vehicle stopped, and our questioner left us. "Do you know who that old gentleman is that spoke to you?" asked a fellow-passenger, also a stranger. "No sir." "That," added he, "is Chancellor Rent!" It is now thirty years since Mr. Barber published his first State work, that on Connecticut. It was the model on which others were formed, and a surprise to the public, for its plan was original and quaint. The venerable Noah Webster, a towns- man of Mr. Barber, was especially gratified. The venerable, slender form of Webster, in the garb of a gentleman of the old school, with broad-brimmed hat, shading a benignant, scholarly face, with Quaker-like cut coat, short breeches, and buckle shoes, was, at that period, a pleasant and daily object to be met moving modestly along under the proudly arching elms of New Haven. We then knew them both "as a boy knows a man." Mrs. Barber, as Miss Ruth Greene, had, only a few years before, pointed out to us the mysteries of A B C from Webster's spell- ing-book. It was in the printing-office at the time, or, perhaps, a little later, owned by our father, Hezekiah Howe, and attached 6 INTRODUCTORY. to his book-store, that the first edition of Webster's great quarto dictionary was printed. It was several years in going through the press, for it was a day of slow coaches ; when, as we recol- lect, our geographies told us the American people had no " particular character ! " The nation was then too young. The issue of this dictionary was a great event. When fin- ished, Mr. Webster gave a generous supper at his house to the compositors and pressmen some twenty in number who had labored upon it. He took the occasion to bless the young men in good, fatherly talk upon the practical matters of life. Among the topics introduced was that of runaway horses. He had for years kept a record of accidents. Almost all fatal results to life and limb had arisen from parties endeavoring to save themselves by springing from the whirling vehicle. His advice was to those present, whenever placed in such peril, to stick to the wagon. The word "stick," though in that con- nection, Webster did not probably use; for he, in common with those Yale men generally, spoke English so "pure and undeflled," that a slang word, or a coarse one, gave a greater shock to his delicate sensibilities than a full, round, swelling oath gives to common ears. This anecdote, living until now only in memory, is fastened in here, as a pleasing reminis- cence of the calm, wise man who caused us all to drop the II from that brightest of words Honor. Many years perhaps an entire generation must elapse before another book will be issued upon the West involving so much of labor and expense as this. More of both were given before the first sheet was printed than to most volumes of the same size and price completed for the market. We design this as a standard work upon the West, and, in successive editions, to enhance its value by such modifications and additions as may seem desirable. We trust it will become a Household book for the Western people; and not only this, but to add to the evi- dence, if it were necessary, what a mighty empire, under the influence of our good government, has grown up here on the sunset side of the Alleghanies since many among us first looked upon the beautiful things of life in the simple, trusting faith of childhood. CINCINNATI, 111 Main Street. 't/j ENGRAVINGS.* THE WESTERN STATES, PACIFIC STATES, AND UNITED STATES TERRITORIES. ' List of Engravings in the STATES of the SOUTHWEST, see p. 12."| Portrait of J. W. Barber, FRONTIS- PIECE. Map, All the West, March 4, 1803, FRONTISPIECE. WEST VIRGINIA. Arms of West Virginia, 33 Wheeling, 40 Tray Run Viaduct, 43 KENTUCKY. Arms of Kentucky, 45 Frankfort, 48 State House, Frankfort, 49 Military Monument,. 49 Grave of Daniel Boone, 51 Louisville, 53 Medical and Law Colleges, 54 Green River Bridge, 56 View in the Mammoth Cave, 56 United States Barracks and Sus- pension Bridge, Newport,... 58 Public Square, Lexington, 64 Ashland, Seat of Henry Clay,... 65 Monument of Henry Clay, 67 Old Fort at Boonesboro' 68 Landing at Paducah, 70 A Tobacco Plantation, 71 A Religious Encampment, 77 Signature of Daniel Boone, 78 Signature of Geo. Rogers Clark, 79 Signature of Isaac Shelby, 82 Signature of Henry Clay, 82 OHIO. Arms of Ohio, 85 Ancient Mound, Marietta, 90 Campus Martins, Marietta, 91 A Pioneer Dwelling, 93 Gallipolis, in 1791, 95 Outline View of Cincinnati, 98 First Church in Cincinnati, 100 Cincinnati in 1802, 101 View in Fourth St., Cincinnati, 103 Pike's Building, 105 Longworth's Vineyard, 107 Harrison House, North Bend,.. 109 Old Block House, near N. Bend, 110 Monument of J. C. Symmes,... 110 Court House, Chillicothe, Ill Old State Capitol, 112 Portsmouth, 115 State Capitol, Columbus, 116 Ohio White Sulphur Springs,.. 117 Court House, Zanesville, 119 Market Street, Steubenville,.... 125 Superior Street, Cleveland, 127 Ancient Map, Cleveland, 128 Toledo, 130 Wayne's Battle-ground, 133 Public Square, Sandusky, 138 Ancient Map, Sandusky, 138 Fort Sandusky, 139 Wyandot Mission Church, 141 View in Dayton, - 142 Old Court House in Greene Co.. 143 Plan of St. Glair's Battlefield,.. 145 * The engravings original to this work can not be copied by other publishers with- ont infringement of copyright. (Vii) via ENGRAVINGS. Birth-place of Tecumseh, 148 Signature of Presid't Harrison, 149 Swiss Emigrant's Cottage, 149 Grave of Simon Kenton, 151 Brady's Pond, 152 Statue of Com. Perry, Cleveland, 153 INDIANA. Arms of Indiana, 155 The Harrison House, Vincennes, 159 State Capitol, Indianapolis, 164 Union Depot, 165 View rh Terre Haute 168 Friends' Board. Sch., Richm'd, 169 Evans ville, 171 Rapp's Church, New Harmony, 172 Calhoun Street, Fort Wayne,... 175 Old Fort Wayne, 177 Lafayette, 180 Tippecanoe Battle-ground, , 181 Map of do 185 Madison, 186 New Albany, 188 Military Monument, 189 University of Indiana, 191 Old State" Capitol. Corydon,.... 191 The Jug Rock,...' 192 The Mill Stream Cave, 192 ILLINOIS. Arms of Illinois, 195 Chicago in 1831, 200 Court House Square, Chicago,.. 202 Block Raising, Chicago, 204 Grain Houses, etc., Chicago,... 205 State House Square, Springfi'd, 211 Lincoln Residence, Springfield, 213 Illinois College, Jacksonville,.. 218 Bloomington, 221 Peoria, 222 Quincy, 226 Alton, 228 Map of Levee at Cairo, 232 June. Ohio and Miss., Cairo,... 232 Gulciu 233 The Lead Region, 235 Rock Island City, 236 Fort Armstrong, Rock Island, 237 Nauvoo, 239 Mt. Joliet, 243 Cavc-in-the-Rock, 249 MICHIGAN. . Arms of Michigan, 251 Detroit, 257 Woodward Avenue, Detroit, ... 259 State House, Lansing, 265 State Penitentiary, Jackson,. 267 State University, Ann Arbor,... 268 Winchester's Head-q's, Monroe, 269 Site of Stockade on the Raisin, 272 Deaf and Dumb Assylum, Flint, 277 Monroe Street, Grand Rapids,.. 279 Lumberman's Camp,..., 281 Mackinaw Island, 285 The Arched Rock, 286 Ruins of Old Fort Mackinaw,.. 287 Map of Mackinaw and Vicinity, 290 Falls of St. Mary, 292 Map of Copper & Iron Region, 294 The Minnesota Mine, 296 WISCONSIN. Arms of Wisconsin, 305 Harbor of Milwaukie, 311 The Portage 321 Voyageurs' Camp, 322 Madison, 323 Map of the Four Lakes, 327 Ft. Crawford, Prairie du Chien, 329 Racine, 334 The Maiden's Rock, 338 Fort Wiunebago, ifi 1831, 341 MINNESOTA. Arms of Minnesota, 349 St. Paul, 351 Fort Snelling, 356 Minne-ha-ha Falls, 357 Lake Itasca, 361 Dacotah Dog Dance (music),... 363 Ojibway Scalp Dance (music),. 363 IOWA. Arms of Iowa, 367 Dubuque, 372 Ruins of Cauianche, 379 Davenport, 383 Attack on Bellevue Hotel, 387 Burlington 391 Judge Rorer's House, 392 Keokuk, , 393 Prairie Scenery, 395 ENGRAVINGS. <&hr*L< IX State Capitol, Des Moines, 398 Muscatine, , 399 State University, Iowa City,.... 401 MISSOURI. Arms of Missouri, 405 Levee at St. Louis, 409 Court House, St. Louis, 411 Biddle Monument, 417 Jefferson City, 418 Lexington Landing, *. 423 Kansas City, 424 A Santa Fe Train, 426 St. Joseph, 428 Hannibal, 429 Pilot Knob, 438 KANSAS. Arms of Kansas, 441 Fort Leavenworth, 446 Leaven worth, 447 Lawrence, 449 Lecompton, 451 Topeka Bridge, 453 Kansas Indian Village, 455 CALIFORNIA. Arms of California, 459 Harbor of San Francisco, 469 Execution by Vigilance Com... 474 Sutler's Mill,.. .. 479 Washing Gold with Long Tom, 480 Hydraulic Mining, 482 Fremont's Ranch, 483 Mammoth Tree Grove, 485 OREGON. Arms of Oregon, 501 Valley of the Willamette, 506 Giant Pines, 507 COLORADO. View in Denver, 516 Street in Denver, 517 UTAH; View in Salt Lake City, 538 Mammon Harem, 540 NEW MEXICO. Giant Cactus, 551 Pueblo, or town of Zuni, 553 Ancient Pueblo, 537 do. Plan, 537 Canon of Chilly, 559 do. Pueblo in, 559 Inscription Rock, 561 ARIZONA. Church at Tucson, 565 Silver Mine Works, 566 STATES. California, 459 Kentucky, 45 Nevada, 489 Illinois, 195 Michigan, 271 Ohio, 85 Indiana, 155 Minnesota, 349 Oregon, 501 Iowa, 367 Missouri, 405 West Virginia, .... 33 Kansas, 441 Nebraska, 509 Wisconsin, 305 U. S. TERRITORIES. Arizona, 563 Idaho, 529 New Mexico. 545 Colorado, 515 Indian, 532 Utah, 535 Dacotah, 531 Montana, 525 Washington, 533 CITIES AND TOWNS. Abingdon, 245 Acoina, 555 Adrian, 268 Alburquerque, 555 Allegan, 284 Almont, 284 Acton, 227 Ann Arbor, 268 Aehtabula, 147 Astoria, 508 Atchison, 448 Aurora, 193-495" Austin, 495 Bannock City, 526 Bardstown, 70 Batavia, 245 Battle Creek, 283 Beloit, 335 Bel 1 efon tain e, 147 Bellville, 245 Bellvue, 386, 559 Belvidere, 245 Benicia, 488 Bloomington, 191, 221 Boonville, 433 Bowling Green, 68 Bucyrus, 147 Burlington, 390 Cairo, 231. Cambridge, 148 Cambridge City, "456 Cannelton, 148 Canton, 147 Carrolton, 70 Carson City, 492 Cedar Falls, 403 Cedar Rapids, 403 Charleston, 42 * Chicago, 199 Chillicothe, 111 Cincinnati, 99 Circleville, 104 Clarksburg, 43 Cleveland, 127 Col 1 water, 283 Colorado City, 518 Colo ma, 478 Columbus, 70,116,193 Conneaut, 125 (x) Connersville, 193 Corydon, 191 Coulterville, 489 Council Bluffs, 399 Oovington, 58 Crawfordsville,191 Crescent City, .488 Cvnthiana, 70 Davenport, 382 Danville, 69 Dayton, 141 Decatur, 245 Delaware, 147 Delphi, 193 Denver, 516 Des Moines, 398 Detroit, 257 Dixon, 244 Dubuque, 372 Dunleith, 244 Eaton, 148 Elgin, 245 Elyria, 147 Evansville, 170 Fill more City, 544 Flint, 277 Fond du Lac, 339 Fort Dodge, 402 Fort Snelling, 356 Fort Wayne, 175 Fort Yuma, 488 Frankfort, 48 Franklin, 193 Fremont, 139 Freeport, 233 Galena, 233 Galesburg, 233 Gallipolis, 94 Georgetown, 70 Germantown, 148 Golden City, 518 Goshen, 193 Grand Haven, 284 Grand Rapids, 278 Grasshopper Falls, 454 Green Bay, 316 Greencastle, 191 Greenfield, 148 Greensburg, 193 Grinnell, 403 Guyandotte, 51 Hamilton, 110 Hannibal, 429 Harrodsburg. 51 Hastings, 359 Henderson, 70 Hernmnn, 434 Hickman, 70 Hillsdale, 283 Hillsboro, 148 Hopkinsville, 70 Hudson, 338 Humboldt City, 488 Huntington, 193 Independence, 429 Indianapolis, 163 Iowa City, 401 Iron ton, 148,433 Janesville, 335 Jackson, 267 Jacksonville, 217 Jefferson City, 417 Jeffersonville, 190 Joliet, 243 Kalamazoo, 283 Kankakee City, 244 Kansas City, 424 Kaskaskia, 213 Kenosha, 334 Keokuk, 393 Keosaugua, 403 Klamath, 488 La Crosse, 337 La Fayette, 179 Lake City, 359 Laguana, 555 Lancaster, 148 Lansing, 265 La Pointe, 348 La Porte, 190 La Salle, 344 Lawrence, 448 Lawrenceburg 190 Leaven worth City, 447 Lebanon, 14S Lecompton, 451 Le Sueur, 359 Louisburg, 42 Lewistown, 529 Lexington, 64, 422 Lima, 147 Logan, 148 Logansport, 189 Los Angelos, 488 Louisville, 52 M'Connelsvillel48 Mackinaw, 284 Macombe, 245 Madison, 186, 323 Manhattan, 454 Manitowoc, 348 Mansfield, 147 Marietta, 89 Mariposa, 487 Marshall, 283 Marquette, 299 Marysville, 483 Massillon, 147 Mays vi lie, 57 Mendota, 359 Michigan City, 190 Milwaukie, 311 Mineapolis, 358 Mineral Point, 335 Mishawaka, 193 Moline, 245 Monroe, 268 Monterey, 488 Morgantown. 43 Mt. Clemens, 284 Mt. Pleasant, 403 Mt. Veri\on, 147, 193 Muncie, 1 93 Muscatine, 399 Napierville, 245 Nauvoo, 239 Nebraska City,51 1 NemahaCity, 511 New Albany, 189 Newark, 118 New Harmony, 172 New Lisbon, 148 New Madrid, 419 Newport, 58 Nicolet, 359 Niles, 283 Newark, 147 Oberlin, 147 Olympia, 535 Omaha City, 511 Ontonagon, 299 CITIES TOWNS. Oregon City, 508 Red Wing, 359 Shakopee, 359 Upper Sanduskv. Oskaloosa, 403 Richmond, 169 Sheboygan, 348 139 Ossawatomie, 454 Ripley, 148 Shelbyville, Urban a, 147, 245 Ottawa, 245 Rising Sun, 193 70, 193 Vallejo, 488 f d/~~/ it. , t, Owens boro, 70 Rocklbrd, 233 Sidney, 147 Vandalia, 245 Ozaukee, 348 Rock Island Silver City, 491 Versailles, 70 ^ff^^Ay^d-^o , Paducah. 70 City, 286 Sioux City, 403 Vevay, 191 o^v* Painesville, 147 Rockville, 193 Smithland, 70 Vincennes, 158 & &Cr~v Paris, Parkersburg, 70 39 Romeo, 284 Russelville, 70 Sonora, South Bend, 484 190 Virginia City, Wabashaw, " 491 359 g &*-t*~4i^- ***** Pembina, Peoria, 531 222 Sacram. City, 478 Saginaw, 282 Springfield, 142, 211 Warren, Watertown, 147 328 o Hslr^ty^j* Peru, 193 Salem, 508 Sterling, 245 Waubonsee, 454 Piqua, 147 St Anne, 402 Steubenville, 124 Waukegan, 245 , Plattesmouth, 511 St. Anthony, 357 Still water, 359 Wellsburg, 41 Jr-e- Pomeroy, 148 St. Charles,245,432 Stockton, 483 Wellsville, 148 -j Pontiac, 2H2 St. Genevieve, 434 Superior City, 348 Weston, 43, 428 \J ^- 1634, two Jesuits founded the first mission in that region. But just a century elapsed from the discovery of the Mississippi, ere the first Canadian envoys met the savage nations of the northwest at the falls of St. Mary's, below the outlet of Lake Superior. It was not until 1659 that any of the adventurous fur-traders wintered on the shores of this vast lake, nor until 1660 that Rene Mesnard founded the first missionary station upon its rocky and inhospitable coast. Perish- ing soon after in the forest, it was left to Father Claude Allouez, five years subsequent, to build the first permanent habitation of white men among the Northwestern Indians. In 1668, the mission was founded at the falls of St. Mary's, by Dablon and Marquette; in 1670, Nicholas Perrot, agent for the intendant of Canada, explored Lake Michigan to near its southern termination. Formal possession was taken of the northwest by the French in 1671, and Marquette established a missionary station at Point St. Ignace, on the mainland north of Mackinac, which was the first settlement in Michigan. Until late in this century, owing to the enmity of the Indians bordering the Lakes Ontario and Erie, the adventurous mission- aries, on their route west, on pain of death, were compelled to pass far to the north, through u a region horrible with forests," by the Ottawa and French Rivers of Canada. As yet no Frenchman had advanced beyond Fox River, of Winnebago Lake, in Wisconsin ; but in May, 1673, the missionary Marquette, with a few companions, left Mackinac in canoes; passed up Green Bay, entered Fox River, crossed the country to the Wisconsin, and, following its current, passed into and dis- covered the Mississippi; down which they sailed several hundred OUTLINE HISTORY. 15 miles, and returned in the Autumn. The discovery of this great river gave great joy to New France, it being "a pet idea" of that age that some of its western tributaries would afford a direct route to the South Sea, and thence to China. Monsieur La Salle, a man of indefatigable enterprise, having been several years engaged in the preparation, in 1082, explored the Mississippi to the sea, and took formal possession of the country in the name of the King of France, in honor of whom he called it Louisiana. In 1685, he also took formal possession of Texas, and founded a colony on the Colorado; but La Salle was assassinated, and the colony dispersed. The descriptions of the beauty and magnificence of the Valley of the Mississippi, given by these explorers, led many adventurers from the cold climate of Canada to follow the same route, and commence settlements. About the year 1680, Kaskaskia and Cahokia, the oldest towns in the Mississippi Valley, were founded. Kaskaskia became the capital of the Illinois country, and in 1721, a Jesuit college and monastery were founded there. A peace with the Iroquois, Hurons and Ottawas, in 1700, gave the French facilities for settling the western part of Canada. In June, 1701, De la Motte Cadillac, with a Jesuit missionary and a hundred men, laid tha foundation of Detroit. All of the extensive region south of the lakes was now claimed by the French, under the name of Canada, or New France. This excited the jealousy of the English, and the New York legislature passed a law for hanging every Popish priest that should come voluntarily into the province. The French, chiefly through the mild and conciliating course of their missionaries, had gained so much influence over the western Indians, that, when a war broke out with England, in 1711, the most powerful of the tribes became their allies; and the latter unsuccessfully attempted to restrict their claims to the country south of the lakes. The Fox nation, allies of the English, in 1713, made an attack upon Detroit; but were defeated by the French and their Indian allies. The treaty of Utrecht, this year, ended this war. By the year 1720, a profitable trade had arisen in furs and agri- cultural products between the French of Louisiana and those of Illinois; and settlements had been made on the Mississippi, below the junction of the Illinois. To confine the English to the Atlan- tic coast, the French adopted the plan of forming a line of military posts, to extend from the great northern lakes to the Mexican Gulf, and as one of the links of the chain, Fort Chartres was built on the Mississippi, near Kaskaskia; and in its vicinity soon flourished the villages of Cahokia and Prairie du Rocher. The Ohio at this time was but little known to the French, and on their early maps was but an insignificant stream. Early in this century their missionaries had penetrated to the sources of the Al- leghany. In 1721, Joncaire, a French agent and trader, estab- lished himself among the Senecas at Lewistown, and Fort Niagara was erected, near the falls, five years subsequent. In 1735, accord- 16 OUTLINE HISTORY. ing to some authorities, Post St. Yincent was erected on the Wabash. Almost coeval with this, was the military post of Presque Isle, on the site of Erie, Pennsylvania, and from thence a cordon of posts extended on the Alleghauy to Pittsburgh; and from thence down the Ohio to the "Wabash. A map, published at London in 1755, gives the following list of French posts, as then existing in the west: Two on French Creek, in the vicinity of Erie, Pennsylvania; Duquesne, on the site of Pittsburgh ; Miarnis, on the Maumee, near the site of Toledo ; San- dusky, on Sandusky Bay; St. Joseph's, on St. Joseph's River, Michigan; Ponchartrain, site of Detroit; Massillirnacinac; one on Fox River, Green Bay; Crevecoaur, on the Illinois; Rockfort, or Fort St. Louis, on the Illinois; Yincennes; Cahokia; Kaskaskia, and one at each of the mouths of the Wabash, Ohio, and Missouri. Other posts, not named, were built about that time. On the Ohio, just below Portsmouth, are ruins, supposed to be those of a French fort; as they had a post there during Braddock's war. In 1749, the French regularly explored the Ohio, and formed alliances with the Indians in Western New York, Pennsylvania, and Virginia. The English, who claimed the whole west to the Pacific, but whose settlements were confined to the comparatively narrow strip east of the mountains, were jealous of the rapidly increasing power of the French in the west. Not content with exciting the savages to hostilities against them, they stimulated private enterprise by granting six hundred thousand acres of choice land on the Ohio, to the "Ohio Company." By the year 1751, there were in the Illinois country, the settle- ments of Cahokia, live miles below the site of St. Louis ; St. Philip's, forty-five miles farther down the river; St. Genevieve, a little lower still, and on the east side of the Mississippi, Fort Chartres, Kas- kaskia and Prairie du Rocher. The largest of these was Kaskas- kia, which at one time contained nearly three thousand souls. In 1748, the Ohio Company, composed mainly of wealthy Vir- ginians, dispatched Christopher Gist to explore the country, gain the good-will of the Indians, and ascertain the plans of the French. Crossing overland to the Ohio, he proceeded down it to the Great Miami, up which he passed to the towns of the Miamies, about fifty miles north of the site of Dayton. The next year the com- pany established a trading post in that vicinity, on Loramies Creek, the first point of English settlement in the western country; it was soon after broken up by the French. In the year 1753, Dinwiddie, Governor of Virginia, sent George Washington, then twenty-one years of age, as commissioner, to remonstrate with the French commandant who was at Fort le Bceuf, near the site of Erie, Pennsylvania, against encroachments of the French. The English claimed the country by virtue of her first royal charters; the French by the stronger title of discovery and possession. The result of the mission proving unsatisfactory, the English, although it was a time of peace, raised a force to OUTLINE HISTORY. 17 expel the invaders from the Ohio and its tributaries. A detachment under Lieut. Ward erected a fort on the site of Pittsburgh ; but it was surrendered shortly after, in April, 1754, to a superior force of French and Indians under Contrecoeur, and its garrison peace- ably permitted to retire to the frontier post of Cumberland. Con- trecoeur then erected a strong fortification at "the fork," under the name of Fort Duquesne. Measures were now taken by both nations for the struggle that was to ensue. On the 28th of May, a strong detachment of Vir- ginia troops, under Washington, surprised a small body of French from Fort Duquesne, killed its commander, M. Jumonville, and ten men, and took nearly all the rest prisoners. He then fell back and erected Fort Necessity, near the site of Uniontown. In July he was attacked by a large body of French and Indians, com- manded by M. Villiers, and after a gallant resistance, compelled to capitulate with permission to retire unmolested, and under the ex- press stipulation that farther settlements or forts should not be founded by the English, west of the mountains, for one year. On the 9th of July, 1755, Gen. Braddock was defeated within ten miles of Fort Duquesne. His army, composed mainly of vete- ran English troops, passed into an ambuscade formed by a far inferior body of French and Indians, who, lying concealed in two deep ravines, each side of his line of march, poured in upon the compact body of their enemy vollies of musketry, with almost per- fect safety to themselves. The Virginia provincials, under Wash- ington, by their knowledge of border warfare and cool bravery, alone saved the army from complete ruin. Braddock was himself mortally wounded by a provincial named Fausett. A brother of the latter had disobeyed the silly orders of the general, that the troops should not take positions behind the trees, when Braddock rode up and struck him down. Fausett, who saw the whole trans- action, immediately drew up his rifle and shot him through the lungs; partly from revenge, and partly as a measure of salvation to the army which was being sacrificed to his headstrong obstinacy and inexperience. The result of this battle gave the French and Indians a complete ascendancy on the Ohio, and put a check to the operations of the English, west of the mountains, for two or three years. In July. 1758, Gen. Forbes, with seven thousand men, left Carlisle, Fenn.. for the west. A corps in advance, principally of Highland Scotch, under Major Grant, were on the 13th of September defeated in the vicinity of Fort Duquesne, on the site of Pittsburgh. A short time alter, the French and Indians, under Col. Boquet, made an unsuccessful attack upon the advanced guard. In November, the commandant of Fort Duquesne, unable to cope with the superior force approaching under Forbes, abandoned the fortress, arid descended to Ne^y Orleans. On his route, he erected Fort Massac, so called in htrnor of M. Massac, who super- intended its construction. It vas upon the Ohio, within forty 2 18 OUTLINE HISTORY. miles of its mouth and within the limits of Illinois. Forbes re- paired Fort Duquesne, and changed its name-to Fort Pitt, in honor of the English Prime Minister. The English were now for the first time in possession of the upper Ohio. In the spring, they established several posts in that region, prominent among which was Fort Bnrd, or Redstone Old Fort, on the site of Brownsville. Ovdng to the treachery of Gov. Lyttleton, in 1760, by which, twenty-two Cherokee chiefs on an embassy of peace were made prisoners at Fort George, on the Savannah, that nation flew to arms, and for a while desolated the frontiers of Virginia and the Carolinas. Fort Loudon, in East Tennessee, having bean besieged by the Indians, the garrison capitulated on the 7th of August, and on the day afterward, while on the route to Fort George, were attacked, and the greater part massacred. In the summer of 1761, Col. Grant invaded their country, and compelled them to sue for peace. On the north the most brilliant success had attended the British arms. Ticonderoga, Crown Point, and Fort Niagara, and Quebec were taken in 1759, and the next year Montreal fell, and with it all of Canada. By the treaty of Paris, in 1763, France gave up her claim to New France and Canada; embracing all the country east of the Mississippi, from its source to the Bayou Iberville. The remainder of her Mississippi possessions, embracing Louisiana west of the Mississippi, and the Island of Orleans, she soon after secretly ceded to Spain, which terminated the dominion of France on this con- tinent, and her vast plans for empire. At this period Lower Louisiana had become of considerable im- portance. The explorations of La Salle in the Lower Mississippi country, were renewed in 1697, by Lemoine D'Iberville, a brave French naval officer. Sailing with two vessels, he entered the Mississippi in March 1698, by the Bayou Iberville. He built forts on the Bay of Biloxi, and at Mobile, both of which were deserted for the Island of Dauphine. which for years was the headquarters of the colony. He also erected Fort Balise, at the mouth of the river, and fixed on the site of Fort Rosalie ; which latter became the scene of a bloody Indian war. After his death, in 1706, Louisiana was but little more than a wilderness, and a vain search for gold, and trading in furs, rather than the substantial pursuits of agriculture, allured the colonists ; and much time was lost in journeys of discovery, and in collecting furs among distant tribes. Of the occupied lands, Biloxi was a barren sand, and the soil of the Isle of Dauphine poor. Bienville, the brother and successor of D'Iberville, was at the fort on the Delta of the Mississippi, where he and his soldiers were liable to inundations, and held joint possession with mosquitoes, frogs, snakes and alligators. In 1712, Antoine de Crozat, an East India merchant, of vast ealth, purchased a grant of the entire country, with the exclusive OUTLINE HISTORY. 19 right of commerce for sixteen years. But in 1717, the speculation having resulted in his ruin, and to the injury of the colonists, he surrendered Ins privileges. Soon after, a number of other adven- turers, under the name of the Mississippi Company, obtained from the French government a charter, which gave them all the rights of sovereignty, except the bare title, including a complete mono- poly of the trade, and the mines. Their expectations were chiefly from the mines ; and on the strength of a former traveler, .Nicholas Perrot, having discovered a copper mine in the valley of St. Peters, the directors of the company assigned to the soil of Louisiana, silver and gold ; and to the mud of the Mississippi, diamonds and pearls. The notorious Law, who then resided at Paris, was the secret agent of the company. To form its capital, its shares were sold at five hundred livres each; and such was the speculating mania of the times, that in a short time more thai.' a hundred mil lions were realized. Although this proved ruinous to individuals, yet the colony was greatly benefited by the consequent emigration, and agriculture and commerce flourished. In 1719, Renault, an agent of the Mississippi Company, left France with about two hundred miners and emigrants, to carry out the mining schemes of the company. He bought five hundred slaves at St. Domingo, to work the mines, which he conveyed to Illinois in 1720. He established himself a few miles above Kas- kasia, and founded there the village of St. Philips. Extravagant expectations existed in France, of his probable success in obtaining gold and silver. He sent out exploring parties in various sections of Illinois and Missouri. His explorations extended to the banks of the Ohio and Kentucky rivers, and even to the Cumberland valley in Tennessee, where at " French Lick," on the site of Nashville, the French established a trading post. Although Renault was woe- fully disappointed in not discovering extensive mines of gold or silver, yet he made various discoveries of lead; among which were the mines north of Potosi, and those on the St. Francois. He eventually turned his whole attention to the smelting of lead, of which he made considerable quantities, and shipped to France. He remained in the country until 17-M. Nothing of consequence was again done in mining, until after the American Revolution. In 1718, Bienville laid out the town of New Orleans, on the plan of Rochefort, France. Some four years after, the bankruptcy of Law threw the colony into the greatest confusion, and occasioned wide-spread ruin in France, where speculation had been carried to an extreme unknown before. The expenditures for Louisiana, were consequently stopped, but the colony had now gained strength to struggle for herself. Louisi- ana was then divided into nine cantons, of which Arkansas and Illinois formed each one. About this time, the colony had considerable difficulty with the Indian tribes, and were involved in wars with the Chickasaws and the Natchez. This Jitter named tribe were finally completely con- 20 OUTLINE HISTORY. quered. The remnant of them dispersed among other Indians, so that, that once powerful people, as a distinct race, was entirely lost. Their name alone survives, as that of a flourishing city. Tradition related singular stories of the Natchez. It was believed that they emigrated from Mexico, and were kindred to the Incas of Peru. The Natchez alone, of all the Indian tribes, had a con- secrated temple, where a perpetual fire was maintained by ap- pointed guardians. Near the temple, on an artificial mound, stood the dwelling of their chief called the Great Sun; who was supposed to be descended from that luminary, and all around were grouped the dwellings of the tribe. His power was absolute ; the dignity was hereditary, and transmitted exclusively through the female line; and the race of nobles was so distinct, that usage had moulded language into the forms of reverence. In 1732, the Mississippi Company relinquished their charter to the king, after holding possession fourteen years. At this period, Louisiana had five thousand whites, and twenty-five hundred blacks. Agriculture was improving in all the nine cantons, par- ticularly in Illinois, which was considered the granary of the colony. Louisiana continued to advance until the war broke out with England in 1775, which resulted in the overthrow of French dominion. Immediatel} 7 after the peace of 1763, all the old French forts in the west, as far as Green Bay, were repaired and garrisoned with British troops. Agents and surveyors too, were making examina- tions of the finest lands east and northeast of the Ohio. Judging from the past, the Indians were satisfied that the British intended to possess the whole country. The celebrated Ottowa chief. Pon- tiac, burning with hatred against the English, in that year formed a general league with the western tribes, and by the middle of May all the western posts had fallen or were closely besieged by the Indians, and the whole frontier, for almost a thousand miles, suf- fered from the merciless fury of savage warfare. Treaties of peace were made with the different tribes of Indians, in the year follow- ing, at Niagara, by Sir William Johnson ; at Detroit or vicinity by General Bradstreet, and, in what is now Coshocton county, Ohio, by Col. Boquet ; at the German Flats, on the Mohawk, with the Six Nations and their confederates. By these treaties, exten- sive tracts were ceded by the Indians in New York and Pennsyl- vania, and south of Lake Erie. Peace having been concluded, the excitable frontier population began to cross the mountains. Small settlements were formed on the main routes, extending north toward Fort Pitt, and south to the head waters of the Holston and Clinch, in the vicinity of South- western Virginia. In 1766, a town was laid out in the vicinity of Fort Pitt. Military land warrants had been issued in great num- bers, and a perfect mania for western land had taken possession of the people of the middle colonies. The treaty made by Sir William ohnson, at Fort Stanwix, on the site of Utica, New York, in OUTLINE HISTORY. 21 October, 1768, with the Six Nations and their confederates, and those of Hard Labor and Lochaber, made with the Cherokees, afforded a pretext under which the settlements were advanced. It was now falsely claimed that the Indian title was extinguished east and sjouth of the Ohio, to an indefinite extent, and the spirit of emigration and speculation in land greatly increased. Among the land com- panies formed at this time was the " Mississippi Company," of which George Washington was an active member. Up to this period very little was known by the English of the country south of the Ohio. In 1754, James M. Bride, with some others, had passed down the Ohio in canoes; and landing at the mouth of the Kentucky River, marked the initials of their names, and the date on the barks of trees. On their return, they were the first to give a particular account of the beauty and richness of the country to the inhabitants of the British settlements. No -farther notice seems to have been taken of Kentucky until the year 1767, when John Finlay, an Indian trader, with others, passed through a part of the rich lands of Kentucky then called by the Indians " the Dark and Bloody Ground" Finlay, returning to North Carolina, fired the curiosity of his neighbors by the reports of the discoveries he had made. In consequence of this information, Col. Daniel Boonc, in company with Finlay, Stewart, Holden, Monay, and Cool, set out from their residence on the Zadkin, in North Carolina, May 1st, 1769 ; and after a long and fatiguing march, over a mountainous and pathless wilderness, arrived on the lied River. Here, from the top of an eminence, Boone and his com- panions first beheld a distant view of the beautiful lands of Kentucky. The plains and forests abounded with wild beasts of every kind ; deer and elk were common ; the buffalo were seen in herds, and the plains covered with the richest verdure. The glowing descrip- tions of these adventurers inflamed the imaginations of the border- ers, and their own sterile mountains beyond lost their charms, when compared to the fertile plains of this newly-discovered Paradise in the West. In 1770, Ebenezer Silas and Jonathan Zane settled Wheeling. In 1771, such was the rush of emigration to Western Pennsylvania and Western Virginia, in the region of the Upper Ohio, that every kind of breadstuff became so scarce, that, for several months, a great part of the population were obliged to subsist entirely on meats, roots, vegetables, and milk, to the entire exclusion of all bread- stuffs ; and hence that period was long alter known as "the starving year.' 1 '' Settlers, enticed by the beauty of the Cherokee country, emigrated to East Tennessee, and hundreds of families also, moved farther south to thy mild climate of West Florida, which at this period extended to the Mississippi. In the summer of 1773, Frank- fort and Louisville, Kentucky, were laid out. The next year was signalized by " Dunmore's war," which temporarily checked the settlements. In the summer of 177-t, several other parties of surveyors and 22 OUTLINE HISTORY. hnnters entered Kentucky, and James Harrod erected a dwelling the first erected by whites in the country on or near the site of Harrodsburg, around which afterward arose " Harrod Station." In the year 1775, Col. Richard Henderson, a native of North Car- olina, in behalf of himself and his associates, purchased of the Cher- okees all the country lying between the Cumberland River and Cumberland Mountains and Kentucky River, and south of the Ohio, which now comprises more than half of the State of Ken- tucky. The new country he named Transylvania. The first legislature sat at Boonsborough, and formed an independent gov- ernment, on liberal and rational principles. Henderson was very active in granting lands to new settlers. The legislature of Vir- ginia subsequently crushed his schemes ; they claimed the sole right to purchase lands from the Indians, and declared his purchase null and void. But as some compensation for the services re-n- dered in opening the wilderness, the legislature granted to the pro- prietors a tract of land, twelve miles square, on the Ohio, below the mouth of Green River. In 1775, Daniel Boone, in the employment of Henderson, laid out the town and fort afterward called Boonsborough. From this time Boonsborough and Harrodsburg became the nucleus and sup- port of emigration and settlement in Kentucky. In May, another fort was also built, which was under the command of Col. Benja- min Logan, and named Logan's Fort. It stood on the site of Stan- ford, in Lincoln county, and became an important post. In 1776, the jurisdiction of Virginia was formally extended over the colony of Transylvania, which was organized into a county named Kentucky, and the first court was held at Harrodsburg in the spring of 17S7. At this time the war of the Revolution was in full progress, and the early settlers of Kentucky were particu- larly exposed to the incursions of the Indian allies of Great Britain; a detailed account of which is elsewhere given in this volume. The early French settlements in the Illinois country now being in pos- session of that power, formed important points around which the British assembled the Indians and instigated them to murderous incursions against the pioneer population. The year 1779 was marked in Kentucky by the passage of the Virginia Land Laws. At this time there existed claims of various kinds to the western lands. Commissioners were appointed to ex- amine and give judgment upon these various claims, as they might be presented. These having been provided for, the residue of the the rich lands of Kentucky were in the market. As a consequence of the passage of these laws, a vast number of emigrants crossed the mountains into Kentucky to locate land warrants: and in the years 1779-'SO and '81, the great and absorbing topic in Kentucky was to enter, survey and obtain patents for the richest lands, and this, too, in the lace of all the horrors and dangers of an In- dian war. Although the main features of the Virginia land laws were just OUTLINE HISTORY. 23 and liberal, yet a great detect existed in their not providing for a general survey of the country by the parent State, and its subdi- vision into sections and parts of sections. Each warrant-holder being required to make his own survey, and having the privilege of locating according to his pleasure, interminable confusion arose from want of precision in the boundaries. In unskillful hands, entries, surveys, and patents were piled upon each other, overlap- ping and crossing in inextricable confusion ; hence, when the country became densely populated, arose vexatious lawsuits and perplexities. Such men as Kenton and Boone, who had done so much for the welfare of Kentucky in its early days of trial, found their indefinite entries declared null and void, and were dispos- sessed, in their old age, of any claim upon that soil for which they had periled their all. The close of the revolutionary war, for a time only, suspended Indian hostilities, when the Indian war was again carried on with renewed energy. This arose from the failure of both countries in fully executing the terms of the treaty. By it, England was obli- gated to surrender the northwestern posts within the boundaries of the Union, and to return slaves taken during the war. The United States, on tlreir part had agreed to offer no legal obstacles to the collection of debts due from her citizens to those of Great Britain. Virginia, indignant at the removal of her slaves by the British fleet, by law prohibited the collection of British debts, while England, in consequence, refused to deliver up the posts, so that they were held by her more than ten years, until Jay's treaty was concluded. Settlements rapidly advanced. Simon Kenton having, in 1784, erected a blockhouse on the site of Maysville then called Lime- stone that became the point from whence the stream of emigra; tion, from down its way on the Ohio, turned into the interior. In the spring of 1783, the first court in Kentucky was held at Harrodsburg. At this period, the establishment of a government, independent of Virginia, appeared to be of paramount necessity, in consequence of troubles with the Indians. For this object, the first convention in Kentucky was held at Danville, in December, 1784; but it was not consummated until eight separate conventions had been held, running through a term of six years. The last was assembled in July, 1790; on the 4th of February, 1791, Congress passed the act admitting Kentucky into the Union, and in the April following she adopted a State Constitution. Prior to this, unfavorable impressions prevailed in Kentucky against the Union, in consequence of the inability ot % Congress to compel a surrender of the northwest posts, and the apparent dis- position of the Northern States to yield to Spain, for twenty years, the sole right to navigate the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico, the exclusive right to which was claimed by that power as being within her dominions. Kentucky was suffering under the horrors of Indian warfare, and having no government of her own, she saw 24 OUTLINE HISTORY. that that beyond the mountains was unable to afford them protec- tion. When, in the year 1786, several States in Congress showed a disposition to yield the right of navigating the Mississippi to Spain tor certain commercial advantages, which would inure to their benefit, but not in the least to that of Kentucky, there arose a universal voice of dissatisfaction; and many were in favor of de- claring the independence of Kentucky and erecting an independent government west of the mountains. Spain was then an immense landholder in the West. She claimed all east of the Mississippi lying south or the 31st degree of north latitude, and all west of that river to the ocean. In May, 1787, a convention was assembled at Danville to remon- strate with Congress against the proposition of ceding the naviga- tion of the Mississippi to Spain ; but it having been ascertained that Congress, through the influence of Virginia and the other Southern States, would not permit this, the convention had no occa- sion to act upon the subject. In the year 1787, quite a sensation arose in Kentucky in conse- quence of a profitable trade having been opened with New Orleans by General Wilkinson, who descended thither in June, with a boat load of tobacco and other productions of Kentucky. Pjeviously, all those who ventured down the river within the Spanish settle- ments, had their property seized. The lure was then held out by the Spanish Minister, that if Kentucky would declare her indepen- dence of the United States, the navigation of the Mississippi should be opened to her; but that, never would this privilege be extended while she was a part of the Union, in consequence of existing com- mercial treaties between Spain and other European powers. In the winter of 1788-9, the notorious Dr. Connolly, a secret British agent from Canada, arrived in Kentucky. His object ap- peared to be to sound the temper of her people, and ascertain if they were willing to unite with British troops from Canada, and seize upon and hold New Orleans and the Spanish settlements on the Mississippi. He dwelt upon the advantages which it must be to the people of the West to hold and possess the right of navigat- ing the Mississippi ; but his overtures were not accepted. At this time settlements had been commenced within the present limits of Ohio. Before giving a sketch of these, we glance at the western land claims. The claim of the English monarch to the Northwestern Territory was ceded to the United States by the treaty of peace signed at Paris, September 3, 1783. During the pendency of this negotia- tion, Mr. Oswald, the British commissioner, proposed the River Ohio as the western boundary of the United States, and but for the indomitable persevering opposition of John Adams, one of the American commissioners, who insisted upon the Mississippi as the boundary, this proposition would have probably been acceded to. The States who owned western unappropriated lands under their original charters from British monarchs, with a single exception. OUTLINE HISTORY. 25 ceded them to the United States. In March, 1784, Virginia ceded the soil and jurisdiction of her lands northwest of the Ohio. In September, 1786, Connecticut ceded her claim to the soil and juris- diction of her western lands, excepting that part of Ohio known as the "Western Reserve," and to that she ceded her jnrisdictional claims in 1800. Massachusetts and New York ceded all their claims. Beside these were the Indian claims asserted by the right of possession. These have been extinguished by various treaties, from time to time, as the inroads of emigration rendered necessary. The Indan title to a large part of the territory of Ohio having become extinguished, Congress, before settlements were com- menced, found it necessary to pass ordinances for the survey and sale of the lands in the Northwest Territory. In October, 1787," Manasseh Cutler and Winthrop Sargeaut, agents of the New Eng- land Ohio Company, made a large purchase of land, bounded south by the Ohio, and west by the Scioto river. Its settlement was com- menced at Marietta in the spring of 1788, which was the first made by the Americans within Ohio. A settlement had been attempted within the limits of Ohio, on the site of Portsmouth, in April, 1785, by four families from Redstone, Pennsylvania, but difficul- ties with the Indians compelled its abandonment. About the time of the settlement of Marietta, Congress appointed General Arthur St. Glair, Governor; Winthrop Sargeant, Secre- tary; and Samuel Holden Parsons, James M. Yarnum and John Cloves Symmes, Judges in and over the Territory. They organ- ized its government and passed laws, and the governor erected the county of Washington, embracing nearly the whole of the eastern half of the present limits of Ohio. In November, 1788, the second settlement within the limits of Ohio was commenced at Columbia, on the Ohio, five miles above the site of Cincinnati, and within the purchase and under the auspices of John Cleves Symmes and associates. Shortly after, settlements were commenced at Cincinnati and at North Bend, sixteen miles below, both within Symmes' purchase. In 1790, another settlement was made at Galliopolis by a colony from France the name signifying City of the French. On the 9th of January, 1789, a treaty was concluded at Fort Harmer, at the mouth of the Muskingum, opposite Marietta, by Governor St. Glair, in which the treaty which had been made four years previous at Fort M'Intosh, on the site of Beaver, Pennsyl- vania, was renewed and coniirmed. It did not, however, produce the favorable results anticipated. The Indians, the same year, committed numerous murders, which occasioned the alarmed set- tlers to erect block-houses in each of the new settlements. In June, Major Doughty, with one hundred and forty men, commenced the erection of Fort Washington, on the site of Cincinnati. In the course of the summer, Gen. Harmer arrived at the fort with three hundred men. Negotiations with the Indians proving unfavorable, Gen. Harmer 26 OUTLINE HISTORY. marched, in September, 1790, from Cincinnati with thirteen hundred men, less than one-fourth of whom were regulars, to attack their towns on the Mauinee. He succeeded in burning their towns; but in an engagement with the Indians, part of his troops met with a severe loss. The next year a larger army was assembled at Cin- cinnati, under Gen. St. Clair, composed of about three thousand men. With this force he commenced his march toward the Indian towns on the Maumee. Early in the morning of the 4th of Nov., 1791, his army, while in camp on what is now the line of Darke and Mercer counties, within three miles of the Indiana line, and about seventy north from Cincinnati, were surprised by a large body of Indians, and defeated with terrible slaughter. A third army, under Gen. Anthony Wayne, was organized. On the 20th of August, 1794, they met and completely defeated the Indians, on the Maumee River, about twelve miles south of the site of Toledo. The Indians at length, becoming convinced of their inability to Desist the American arms, sued for peace. On the 3d of August, 1795, Gen. Wayne concluded a treaty at Greenville, sixty miles north of Cincinnati, with eleven of the most powerful northwestern tribes in grand council. This gave peace to the West of several years' duration, during which the settlements pro- gressed with great rapidity. Jay's Treaty, concluded November 19th, 1794, was a most important event to the prosperity of the West. It provided for the withdrawal of all the British troops from the northwestern posts. In 1796, the Northwestern Territory was divided into five counties. Marietta was the seat of justice of Hamilton and Washington counties; Viucennes, of Knox county ; Kaskaskia, of St. Clair county ; and Detroit, of Wayne county. The settlers, out of the limits of Ohio, were Canadian or Creole French. The headquarters of the northwest army we.re removed to Detroit, at which point a fort had been built, by De la Motte Cadillac, as early as 1701. Originally Virginia claimed jurisdiction over a large part of Western Pennsylvania as being within her dominions, yet it was not^until after the close of the Revolution that the boundary line was permanently established. Then this tract was divided into two counties. The one, Westmoreland, extended from the moun- tains west of the Alleghany River, including Pittsburgh and all the country between the Kishkeminitas and the Youghiogheny. The other, Washington, comprised all south and west of Pittsburgh, inclusive of all the country east and west of the Monongahela River. At this period Fort Pitt was a frontier post, around which had sprung up the village of Pittsburgh, which was not regularly laid out into a town until 1784. The settlement on the Monon- gahela at u Redstone Old Fort," or 41 Fort Burd," as it originally was called, having become an important point of embarkation for western emigrants, was the next year laid olF into a town under the name of Brownsville. Regular forwarding houses were soon established here, by whose lines goods were systematically wagoned OUTLINE HISTORY. 27 over the mountains, thus superseding the slow and tedious mode of transportation by pack-horses, to which the emigrants had previously been obliged to resort. In July, 1786, " The Pittsburgh Gazette," the first newspaper issued in the west, was published; the second being the "Ken- tucky Gazette,' 1 established at Lexington, in August of the next year. As la*e as 1791, the Alleghany River was the frontier limit of the settlements of Pennsylvania, the Indians holding possession of the region around its northwestern tributaries, with the exception of a few scattering settlements, which were all simultaneously broken up and exterminated in one night, in February of this year, by a band of one hundred and fifty Indians. During the campaigns of Harmer, St. Clair and "Wayne, Pitts- burgh was the great depot for the armies. By this time agriculture and manufactures had begun to flourish in Western Pennsylvania and Virginia, and an extensive trade was carried on with the settlements on the Ohio and on the Lower Mississippi, with New Orleans and the rich Spanish settlements in its vicinity. Mouongahela whisky, horses, cattle, and agricultural and mechanical implements of iron were the principal articles of export. The Spanish government soon after much embarrassed this trade by imposing heavy duties. The first settlements in Tennessee were made in the vicinity of Fort London, on the Little Tennessee, in what is now Monroe county, East Tennessee, about the year 1758. Forts London and Chissel were built at that time by Colonel Byrd, who marched into the Cherokee country with a regiment from Virginia. The next year war broke out with the Cherokees. In 1760, the Cherokees besieged Fort Loudon, into which the settlers had gathered their families, numbering nearly three hundred persons. The latter were obliged to surrender for want of provisions, but agreeably to the terms of capitulation were to retreat unmolested beyond the Blue Ridge. When they had proceeded about twenty miles on their route, the savages fell upon them and massacred all but nine, not even sparing the women and children. The only settlements were thus broken up .by this war. The next year the celebrated Daniel Boone made an excursion from North Carolina to the waters of the Holston. In 1766, Colonel James Smith, with five others, traversed a great portion of Middle and West Tennessee. At the mouth of the Tennessee, Smith's companions left him to make farther explorations in Illinois, while he, in company with a negro lad, returned home through the wilderness, after an absence of eleven months, d.uring which he saw "neither bread, money, women, nor spirituous liquors." Other explorations soon succeeded, and permanent settlements first made in 1768 and '69, by emigrants from Virginia and North Carolina, who were scattered along the branches of the Holston, French Broad and Watauga. The jurisdiction of North Carolina was, in 1777, extended over the Western District, which was 28] OUTLINE HISTORY. organized as the county of Washington, and extending nominally westward to the Mississippi. Soon after, some of the more daring pioneers made a settlement at Bledsoe's Station, in Middle Tennes- see, in the heart of the Chickasaw nation, and separated several hundred miles, by the usual traveled route, from their kinsmen on the Holston. A number of French traders had previously estab- lished a trading post and erected a few cabins at the t; Bluff" n ;ir the site of Nashville. To the same vicinity Colonel James Robertson, in the fall of 1780, emigrated with forty families from North Carolina, who were driven from their homes by the maraud- ing incursions of Tarleton's cavalry, and established " Robertson's Station," which formed the nucleus around which gathered the settlements on the Cumberland. The Cherokees having com- menced hostilities upon the frontier inhabitants about the com- mencement of the year 1781, Colonel Campbell, of Virginia, with seven hundred mounted riflemen, invaded their country and defeated them. At the close of the Revolution, settlers moved in in large numbers from Virginia, North and South Carolina, and Georgia. Nashville was laid out in the summer of 1784, and named from General Francis Nash, who fell at Brandywine. The people of this district, in common with those of Kentucky, and on the upper Ohio, were deeply interested iri the navigation of the Mississippi, and under the tempting offers of the Spanish gov- ernor of Louisiana, many were lured to emigrate to West Florida and become subjects of the Spanish king. North Carolina having ceded her claims to her western lands, Congress, in May, 1790, erected this 'into a territory under the name of the " Southwestern Territory," according- to the provi- sions of the ordinance of 1787, excepting the article prohibiting slavery. The territorial government was organized with a legislature, a legislative council, with William Blount as their first Governor. Knoxville was made the seat of government. A fort was erected to intimidate the Indians, by the United States, in the Indian country, on the site of Kingston. From this period until the final overthrow of the northwestern Indians by Wayne, this territory suffered from the hostilities of the Creeks and Cherokees, who were secretly supplied with arms and ammunition by the Spanish agents, with the hope that they would exterminate! the Cumberland settle- ments. In 1795 the territory contained a population of seventy- seven thousand two hundred and sixty-two, of whom about ten thousand were slaves. On the first 6f June, 1796, it was admitted into the Union as the State of Tennessee. By the treaty of October 27, 1795, with Spain, the old sore, the right of navigating the Mississippi, was closed, that power ceding to the United States the right of free navigation. The Territory of Mississippi was organized in 179S, and Win- throp Sargeant appointed Governor. By the ordinance of 1787, the people of the Northwest Territory were entitled to elect Repre- OUTLINE HISTORY. 29 sentatives to a Territorial Legislature whenever it contained 5000 males of full age. Before the close of the year 1798 the Territory had this number, and members to a Territorial Legislature weie soon after chosen. In the year 1799, William H. Harrison was chosen the first delegate to Congress from the Northwest Territory. In 1800, the Territory of Indiana was formed, and the next year, William H. Harrison appointed Governor. This Territory com- prised the present States of Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Michigan, which vast country then had less than 6000 whites, and those mainly of French origin. On the 30th of April, 1802, Con- gress passed an act authorizing a convention to form a constitution for Ohio. This convention met at Chillicothe in the succeeding November, and on the 29th of -that month, a constitution of State Government was ratified and signed, by which act Ohio became one of the States of the Federal Union. In October, 1802, the whole western country was thrown into a ferment by the suspension of the American right of depositing goods and produce at New Orleans, guaranteed by the treaty of 1795, with Spain. The whole commerce of the West was struck at in a vital point, and the treaty evidently violated. On the 25th of February, 1803, the port was opened to provisions, on paying a duty, and in April following, by orders of the King of Spain, the right of deposit was restored. After the treaty of 1763, Louisiana remained in possession of Spain until 1803, when it was again restored to France by the terms of a secret article in the treaty of St. Ildefonso concluded with Spain in 1800. France held but brief possession ; on the 30th of April she sold her claim to the United States for the considera- tion of fifteen millions of dollars. On the 20th of the succeeding December, General Wilkinson and Claiborne took possession of the country for the United States, and entered New Orleans at the head of the American troops. On the llth of January, 1805, Congress established the Terri- tory of Michigan, and appointed William Hull, Governor. This same year Detroit was destroyed by fire. The town occupied only about two acres, completely covered with buildings and cumbusti- ble materials, excepting the narrow intervals of fourteen or fifteen feet used as streets or lanes, and the whole was environed with a very strong and secure defense of tall and solid pickets. At this period the conspiracy of Aaron Burr began to agitate the western country. In December, 1806, a fleet of boats with arms, provisions, and ammunition, belonging to the confederates of Burr, were seized upon the Muskingum, by agents fit' the United States, which proved a fatal blow to the project. In 1809, the Ter- ritory of Illinois was formed from the western part of the Indiana Territory, and named from the powerful tribe which once had occupied its soil. The Indians, who, since the treaty of Greenville, had been at peace, about the year 1810, began to. commit aggressions upon the inhabitants of the West, under the leadership of Tecumseh. The 30 OUTLINE HISTORY. next year they were defeated by General Harrison, at the battle of Tippecanoe, in Indiana. This year was also distinguished by the voyage from Pittsburgh to New Orleans, of the steamboat l * New Orleans," the first steamer ever launched upon the western waters. In June, 1812, the United States declared war against Great Britain. Of this war, the West was the principal theater. Its opening scenes were as gloomy and disastrous to the American arms as its close was brilliant and triumphant. At the close of the war, the population of the Territories of In- diana, Illinois, and Michigan was less than 50,000. But from that time onward, the tide of emigration again went forward with un- precedented rapidity. On the 19th of April, 1816, Indiana was admitted into the Union, and Illinois on the 3d of December, 1818. The remainder of the Northwest Territory, as then organized, was included in the Territory of Michigan, of which that section west of Lake Michigan bore the name ot the Huron District. This part of the West increased so slowly that, by the census of 1830, the Territory of Michigan contained, exclusive of the Huron District, but 28,000 souls, while that had only a population of 3,640. Em- igration began to set in more strongly to the Territory of Michigan in consequence of steam navigation having been successfully intro- duced upon the great lakes of the West. The first' steamboat upon these immense inland seas was the " Walk-in-the-Water," which, in 1819, went as far as Mackinaw; yet it was not until 1826 that a steamer rode the waters of Lake Michigan, and six years more had elapsed ere one had penetrated as far as Chicago. The year 1832 was signalized by three important events in the history of the West, viz: the first appearance of the Asiatic Cholera, the Great Flood in the Ohio, and the war with Black Hawk. The West has suffered serious drawbacks, in its progress, from inefficient systems of banking. One bank frequently was made the basis of another, and that of a third, and so on throughout the country. Some three or four shrewd agents or directors, in estab- lishing a bank, would collect a few thousands in specie, that had been honestly paid in, and then make up the remainder of the capital with the bills or stock from some neighboring bank. Thus so intimate was the connection of each bank with others, that when one or two gave way, they all went down together in one common ruin. In 1804, the year preceding the purchase of Louisiana, Congress formed, from part of it, the "Territory of Orleans," which was admitted into the Union, in 1812, as the State of Louisiana. In 1805, after the Territory of Orleans was erected, the remaining part of the purchase from the French was formed into the Territory of Louisiana, of which the old French town of St. Louis was the capital. This town, the oldest in the Territory, had been founded in 1764, by M. Laclede, agent for a trading association, to whom had been given, by the French government of Louisiana, a mono- OUTLINE HISTORY. 31 poly of the commerce in furs and peltries with the Indian tribes of the Missouri and Upper Mississippi. The population of the Territory in 1805 was trifling, and consisted mainly of French Creoles and traders, who were scattered along the banks of the Mississippi and the Arkansas. Upon the admission of Louisiana as a State, the name of the Territory of Louisiana was changed to that of Missouri. From the southern part of this, in 1819, was erected the Territory of Arkansas, -which then contained but a few thousand inhabitants, who were mainly in detached settlements on the Mississippi and on the Arkansas, in the vicinity of the "Post of Arkansas." The first settlement in Arkansas was made on the Arkansas River, about the year 1723, upon the grant of the noto- rious John Law; but, being unsuccessful, was soon after aban- doned. In 1820, Missouri was admitted into the Union, and Arkansas in 1836. Michigan was admitted as a State in 183T. The Huron District was organized as the Wisconsin Territory in 18 i6, and was admitted into the Union as a State in 1848. The first settlement in Wis- consin was made in 1665, when Father Claude Allouez established a mission at La Pointe, at the western end of Lake Superior. Four years after, a mission was permanently established at Green Bay; and, eventually, the French also established themselves at Prairie du Chien. In 1819. an expedition, under Governor Cass, explored the Territory, and found it to be little more than the abode of a few Indian traders, scattered here and there. About this time, the Government established military posts at Green Bay and Prairie du Chien. About the year 1825, some farmers settled in the vicinity of Galena, which had then become a noted mineral region. Immediately after the war with Black Hawk, emigrants flowed in from New York, Ohio, and Michigan, and the flourishing towns of Milwaukie, Shebovgan, Racine, and Southport were laid out on the borders of Lake Michigan. At the conclusion of the same war, the lands west of the Mississippi were thrown open to emigrants, who commenced settlements in the vicinity of Fort Madison and Burlington in 1833. Dubnque had long before been a trading post, and was the first settlement in Iowa. It derived its name from Julian Dubuque, an enterprising French Canadian, who, in 1788, obtained a grant of one hundred and forty thousand acres from the Indians, upon which he resided until his death in 1810, when he had accumulated immense wealth by lead-mining and trading. In June, 1838, Iowa was erected into a Territory, and in 1846 became a State. In 1849, Minnesota Territory was organized ; it then contained a little less than five thousand souls. The first American estab- lishment in the Territory was Fort Snclling, at the mouth of St Peter's or Minnesota River, which was founded in 1819. The French, and afterward the English, occupied this country with their fur-trading forts. Pembina, on the northern boundary, is the oldest village, having been established in 1812 by Lord Selkirk, a 32 OUTLINE HISTORY. Scottish nobleman, under a grant from the Hudson's Bay Com- pany. There were not until near the close of the war with Mexico, any American settlements on the Pacific side of the continent. At the beginning of the century not a single white man had ever been known to have crossed the continent north of the latitude of St. Louis. The geography of the greater part of the Pacific slope was almost wholly unknown, until the explorations of Fremont, between the years 1842 and 1848. That region had formerly been penetrated only by fur traders and trappers. The Mexican war of 1846-'48, gave to the Union an immense tract of country, the large original provinces of Upper California and New Mexico. The discovery of gold in Upper California in 1848, at once directed emigration to that part of the continent. From that period settlements were rapid and territories formed in quick succession. In 1848, the Mormons, ex- pelled from Missouri, settled in Utah, which was erected into a ter- ritory in 1850. In 1848, Oregon became an organized territory, and California, then conquered from Mexico, in 1850, was ddmitted as a State, and Oregon in 1859. The emigration to California was im- mense for the first few years : in the years 1852 and 1853, her pro- duct in gold reached the enormous value of one hundred and sixty millions of dollars. In 1854, after the first excitement in regard to California had somewhat subsided, the territories of Kansas and Nebraska were organized. Kansas became for a time a favorite country for emi- grants ; and at last a bloody arena between the free soil and pro- slavery parties for mastery. The overwhelming preponderance of the focmer, resulted in its success, and Kansas was admitted as a free State in 1861. The formation of territories from the close of the Mexican War to the close of the Southern Rebellion, was rapid without precedent, as the following summary exhibits. This was consequent upon the dis- covery of vast mineral wealth in the mountain country : CALIFORNIA, ceded by treaty with Mexico in 1848; admitted as a STATE in 1850. NEW MEXICO, ceded by treaty with Mexico, and organized as a Territory in 1848. MINNESOTA, organized as a Territory in 1849 ; admitted as a STATE in 1858. UTAH, organized as a Territory in 1850. ARIZONA, purchased of Mexico in 1854; organized as a Territory in 1863. OREGON, organized as a Territory in 1848; admitted as a STATE in 1859. WASHINGTON, organized as a Territory in 1853. KANSAS, organized as a Territory in 1854; admitted as a STATE in 1861. NUBRASKA, organized as a Territory in 1854. NEVADA, organized as a Territory in 1861 ; admitted aa a STATE in 1864. DACOTAH, organized as a Territory in 1861. COLORADO, organized as a Territory in 1861. IDAHO, organized as a Territory in 1863. MONTANA, organized as a Territory in 1864. WEST VIRGINIA. WEST VIRGINIA owes her existence to the Great Rebellion ; or rather to the patriotism of her people, who, when the mother State, Virginia, plunged into the vortex of seces- sion, resolved to stand by the Union. The wisdom of their loyalty has been signally shown by its saving them from the sore desolation that fell upon most parts of the Old Do- minion. The seal of the state is remarka- bly appropriate. It has the motto. "Montani semper liberi" mov.nl am- eers always free. In the center is a rock, with ivy, emblematic of sta- bility and continuance; the face of the rock bears the inscription. "June 20, 1863," the date of found- ation, as if "graved with a pen of iron in the rock forever." On the right stands a farmer clothed in the tounta-net-rs ahvay* free, traditional hunting-shirt peculiar to this region; his right arm resting on the plow handles, and his left supporting a woodman's ax indicating that while the territory is par- tially cultivated it is still in process of being cleared of the original forest. At his right is a sheaf of wheat and corn growing. On the left of the rock stands a miner, indicated by a pickax on his shoulder, with barrels and lumps of mineral at his feet. On his left is an anvil partly seen, on which rests a sledge hammer, typical of the mechanic arts the whole indicating the principal pursuits and resources of the ^tate. In front .of the rocks and figures, as if just laid down by the latter, and ready to be resumed at a moment's notice, are two hunter's rifles, crossed and surmounted at the place of contact by the Phrygian cap, or cap of Liberty indicating that the freedom and independence of the state were won and will be maintained by arms. In the spring of 1861, when the question of secession was submitted to the people, those of Eastern Virginia voted almost unanimously in its favor, but in the northwestern counties quite as strongly against it. l:i fact, the desire for a separate state government had for a quarter of a century prevailed in this section, where the slaveholding interest was slight, and the habits of the people diverse. The reasons for this ^3 (33) 34 WEST VIRGINIA were, that they were in a measure cut off from intercourse with East- ern Virginia by chains of mountains, and that state legislation had been unfavorable to the development of their resources. The break- ing out of the rebellion was a favorable moment to initiate measures for the accomplishment of this long-desired separation. As the move- ment was one of grave importance, we must give it more than a pass- ing notice, from a pen familiar with the subject. "It has passed into history, that for many years, while the western counties of Virginia had the preponderance of white population and taxable property, the eastern counties controlled the legislation of the state, by maintaining an iniquitous basis of representation. It is enough to say, that the western counties, with few slaves, were a mere dependency of the eastern, with many slaves ; and the many revenues of the state were expended for the benefit mainly of the tide-water re- gion, while the west paid an unjust proportion of the taxes. This was always a cause of dissatisfaction. Besides, there was no homogeniety of population or interest, and the Alleghany Mountains were a natu- ral barrier to commercial and social intercourse. There were much closer relations in these respects with Ohio and Pennsylvania, than with the tide-water region, growing as well out of the substantial sim- ilarity of society, as the short-sighted policy of having no great public improvement in the direction of Richmond. The construction of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, and its connections, intensified the isolation of the west from the rest of the state. "When the ordinance of secession was submitted to the people, the western counties, with great unanimity, voted against it. This was on the 23d of May, 1861. The traitors never waited the result of the popular vote, for as soon as the ordinance passed the convention, Vir- ginia was practically hitched on to the Confederacy; and while at Richmond the state authorities were busy in the military seizure of the state, the people of Virginia, who were still loyal, met at Wheeling immediately alter the vote on the ordinance and called a convention, the members of which should be duly elected, to assemble at that city on the llth of June. The loyal people of the whole state were invited to join in this movement. There was nothing in the state constitu- tion against it, on the contrary, it provided for it by just this method. There happened to be, also, a notable precedent for this action, in the history of the state. In 1774, Lord Dunmore, the colonial governor of Virginia, dissolved the house of burgesses; and for the purpose of preventing legislation in any event, retired with his council on board a British man-of-war. The* assembly being thus deprived of a gov- ernment, met together in convention, as private citizens, and assumed the powers of the state. They issued an invitation, without any leg- islative authority, for the several counties or districts to send delegates to a convention. There was no legal or authorized act calling this convention, or for the choice of delegates; but it was the spontaneous act of the people, who were in favor of a free government. The con- vention met in 1775, and declared 'the necessity of immediately put- ting the country in a posture of defense, for the better protection of our lives, liberties and property.' And after enumerating the acts by which the colonial authorities had subverted government, asserted that ' we are driven to the necessity of supplying the present want of WEST VIRGINIA. 35 government, by appointing proper guardians of the lives and liberties of our country.' And thereupon they elected state officers and re- stored the government. "Mark, these Virginians, when they restored the government thug abandoned, did not proclaim revolution or secession from Great Britain; on the contrary, they said: 'Lest our views be misrepresented or misunderstood, we publicly and solemnly declare before God and the world that we do bear true faith and allegiance to his majesty King George the Third, as our lawful and rightful king.' "Accordingly, on the llth of June, 1861, the convention assembled, there being quite a number of delegates from the eastern counties. The first ordinance, after reciting the grievances of the people, sol- emnly declares: 'That the preservation of their dearest rights and liberties, and their security in person and property, imperatively de- mand the reorganization of the government; and that all acts of the convention and executive (at Richmond) tending to separate this state from the United States, or to levy and carry on war against them, are without authority and void ; and that the offices of all who adhere to the said convention and executive, whether legislative, executive or judicial, are vacated? They then proceeded to elect a governor and other state officers, who should hold their offices until an election could he had ; and to mark the era of reorganization, they added the words ' Union and Liberty ' to the ' Sic semper tyrannis ' of the state arms. "This was not revolution, for it was a case within the constitution of the state. It could not be revolution to support the constitution and laws, both of which the Richmond traitors had abrogated. They could not be the government, for they had destroyed it. That can not be revolution which upholds or sustains the supreme law of the land, viz: the constitution of the United States and the laws in pursuance of it. "But it is said, there was only a fraction of the people who joined in this movement. We answer in the language of another: 'Doubtless, it is desirable that a clear majority should always speak in government; but where a state is in insurrection, and the loyal citizens are under du- ress, the will of the people, who are for the constitution and the laws, is the only lawful will under the constitution; and that will must be col- lected as far as is practicable under the external force.' "Immediately upon the election of FRANCIS H. PIERPONT as gov- ernor, he notified the president of the United States, that there existed a treasonable combination against the constitution and laws, known as 'The Confederate States of America,' whose design was to subvert the authority of the United States in Virginia ; that an army of the insur- gents was then advancing upon the loyal people of the state for the purpose of bringing them under the domination of the Confederacy; and that he had not at his command sufficient force to suppress the insurrection, and as governor of Virginia, requested national aid. This he had an undoubted right to do, if he were governor of Virginia, for the constitution of the United States provides for the very case. [See article iv, sec. 4.] "Was he governor of Virginia? Who was to decide between Gov. Pierpont, at Wheeling, and Gov. Letcher, at Richmond? Which was the government of Virginia, the Wheeling or the Richmond? "Happily, the supreme court of the United States furnished a solu- 36 WEST VIRGINIA. tion of the question, and put forever at rest, any doubt about the legitimacy of the Wheeling government. [Luther v. Eorden, 7 How- ard Eep. p. 1.1 This is the case growing out of the celebrated Dorr rebellion in Khode Island, in 1840, and involves the very question under consideration. It is useless to go into the history of the origin of that conflict. There were two governors and legislatures in that state the minority, or charter government, with Gov. King at its head, and the majority, or popular government, with Gov. Dorr at its head. John Tyler, a Virginian, then president of the United States, decided in favor of the minority or charter government; and in pursuance of a request of Gov. King for national aid, similar to that made by Gov. Pierpont, the president offered the military and naval force of the United States to Governor King, and the Dorr government thereupon succumbed and was disbanded. The question involved was carried to the supreme court of the United States, and Chief Justice Taney de- livered the opinion of the whole court. No lawyer can deny, that if President Tyler had recognized the Dorr government, the supreme court would have guided its judgment accordingly. The supreme court say : '"The power of deciding whether the government of the United States is bound to interfere (in case of domestic violence between con- flicting parties in a state), is given to the president of the United States. He is to act upon the application of the legislature or of the executive, and consequently he must determine what body of men constitute the legislature, and who is the governor, before he can act. The fact that both parties claim to be the government can not alter the case, for both can not be entitled to it. If there be an armed conflict, it is a case of domestic violence, and one of the parties must be in insurrection against the lawful government; and the president must necessarily decide which is the government, and which party is unlawfully arrayed against it, in order to perform his duty. And after the president has acted and called out the militia, his decision can not be reviewed by any legal tribunal, It is said this power in the president is dangerous to liberty, and may be abused. All power may be abused if placed in unworthy hands ; but it would be difficult to point out any other hands in which this power could be more safe and at the same time equally effective. At all events, it is conferred upon him by the constitution and laws of the United States, and must, therefore, be respected and enforced by its judicial tribunals.' "In one word, the question between two governments in a state, under these circumstances, is not a judicial question at all, but rests solely with the president under the constitution and laws; and his decision is final and binding, and settles all claims between conflicting jurisdictions in a state. "President Lincoln responded nobly to the call of Gov. Pierpont, and furnished the requisite aid to the restored government. The battles of Phillipi and Rich Mountain followed, and the Confederates were driven out of "Western Virginia. Here, then, was a definite and final settlement of the questions as to who was governor of Virginia, by the president, and no tribunal or authority can review that decision or call it in question. The heads of the executive departments have recog- nized the restored government the secretary of war by assigning WEST VIRGINIA. 37 quotas under calls for volunteers; the treasurer by paying over to the state, upon the order of its legislature, her share of the proceeds of the sales of public lands, and so on. "On the 20th of August, 1861, the convention at Wheeling, being still in session, provided for the election of congressmen, and they were received into the lower house. They also called the legislature of Virginia together at Wheeling, to consist of such members as had been elected previous to the passage of the ordinance of secession, and provided for tilling vacancies if any by election. And on July 9th, the legislature elected John S. Carlile and "Waitman T. Willey as senators of the United States, from Virginia, to supply the places of E. M. T. Hunter and James M. Mason. These senators were admitted to scats in the senate of the United States, and were so recognized by both the executive and legislative branches of the federal government, so that any question as to the rightfulness of the legislature at "Wheeling as the legislature of Virginia was at an end. "Thus the State of Virginia, with a governor and legislature, and other state machinery in operation, recognized by all departments of the federal government, was fully adequate to the exercise of all the functions of a state, as -well then and now, as at any period of her history. "Let us now turn to the constitution of the United States, article iv, sec. 3, which reads as follows: 'New states maybe admitted by the congress into the Union; but no new state shall be formed or erected within the jurisdiction of any other state, nor any state be formed by the junction of two or more states, or parts of states, without the con- sent of the legislatures of the states concerned, as well as of the con- gress.' "Now it is apparent that to form a new state out of a part of 'the State of Virginia, the concurrent consent of the legislature of Virginia and of congress is all that is needed under the constitution. Wo have shown that the government at Wheeling was the government of Vir- ginia, with a duly constituted governor, legislature, etc.; and the way pointed out by the constitution is plain. Let us now see whether the necessary steps were taken as prescribed by the constitution of the United States. "On August 20, 1881, the convention passed an ordinance providing for the submission of the question of the formation of a new state to the people, and also further the election of delegates to a convention to form a constitution for the new state, if the people decided in favor of it; and also for the various details of the movement. The governor was directed to lay before the general assembly, at its next ensuing meeting, for their consent, the result, if that result should bo favorable to a new state, in accordance with the constitution of the United States. The peoples expressed themselves by an overwhelming majority in favor of a new state. The constitutional convention for the new state met and prepared a constitution, which was ratified by the people, and the necessary officers for the state government chosen. At the next session of the legislature of Virginia, on May 13, 1862, that body gave its formal consent to the formation of the State of West Virginia, within the jurisdiction of Virginia, and directed that the act be transmitted to their senators and representatives in congress, and they 38 WEST VIRGINIA. were requested to use their endeavors to obtain the consent of congress to the admission of the new state into the Union. "At the following session of congress, the application was formally made, first to the senate. Pending its consideration, an amendment to the state constitution was proposed, providing for the gradual abo- lition of slavery, and also for the submission of the amendment to the people of the new state; and if approved by them, the president of the United States was, by proclamation, to announce the fact, and the state should be admitted into the Union. In this shape the bill for admission passed the senate, and afterward the house, and was ap- proved by the president. The constitutional convention for the new state held an immediate session, approved the congressional amend- ment, and submitted the constitution thus amended, to the people, who also approved it by an overwhelming majority ; and so, now, all that was needed in order to its admission into the Union, was the procla- mation of the president, which was accordingly issued ; and on the 20th of June, 1863, the new member, with its motto, " Montani semper liberi" was born into the family of states in the midst of the throes of a mighty revolution, and cradled in storms more terrible and de- structive than any that ever swept among its mountains, but clothed in the majesty of constitutional right. "Until the time fixed by act of congress, West Virginia was not a state, and the movement, therefore, did not interfere with the regular and successful operation of the government of Virginia. As soon, however, as the time for the inauguration of the new state arrived, Gov. Pierpont and the officers of the government of Virginia, in ac- cordance with an act of the legislature, removed to Alexandria, Va., where the seat of government was, and still is located; and A. J. JBore- nian, the first governor of West Virginia, was duly installed, and 'the seat of government temporarily fixed at Wheeling, until the times become more settled, so that the capital of the new state may be located nearer the geographical center of its territory. " The area of the new state is 23,000 square miles twenty times as large as Rhode Island, more than ten times as large as Delaware, five times as large as Connecticut, three times as large as Massachusetts, more than twice as large as New Hampshire, and more than twice as large as Maryland an area about equal to the aggregate of Rhode Island, Connecticut, Delaware, Massachusetts and Vermont. "According to the census of 1860, it had a white population of 335,000 a population much greater than any of the new states, at the time of their admission into the Union, and much greater than many of the old states. "It is among the most loyal of the states, for she has always filled her quotas under all calls without a draft: she furnished more than 20,000 soldiers for the Union, and several thousands in excess of all drafts. The revenue of the whole State of Virginia in 1850 was only $533,000, while in 1860 the forty-eight counties composing the new state paid over 8600,000 into the state treasury. " The new state has a rich legacy committed to her keeping, and has all the elements to make a great and prosperous commonwealth. Lumber, coal, iron, petroleum, salt, etc., abound, and the fertility of her soil is equal to that of most states in the Union. And now that WEST VIRGINIA. 39 she is freed from the incubus of slavery, and wealth and enterprise are beginning to develop her resources, she will outstrip many of the more favored states and take her place among the foremost common- wealths." The most noted towns of the state are "Wheeling and Parkersburg, both of which are on the Ohio. Parkersburg is situated on the river at the mouth of the Little Kanawha, a few miles below Marietta, Ohio, and 100 below Wheeling. It has a connection with the west by the Cincinnati & Marietta railroad, and with the east by the North- western railroad, the southernmost fork of the Baltimore & Ohio rail- road. It is a thriving town of about 7000 inhabitants. The valley of the Little Kanawha is of growing importance from its wealth in pe- troleum: oil wells of great richness are being worked. Just below Parkersburg is the long celebrated Blannerhasset's Island, so charm- ingly described by Wirt in his graceful oratory at the trial of Aaron Burr at Richmond, half a century ago. Herman Blannerhasset was of wealthy Irish parentage and born in England. He married Miss Adeline Agnew, a grand-daughter of General Agnew, who was with Wolfe at Quebec. She was a most elegant and accomplished woman and he a refined and scholarly man. In 1798 he began his improve- ments upon the island. In 1805, Aaron Burr landed on the island, where he was entertained with hospitality by the family. Wlieeling is on the east hank of Ohio River, and on both sides of Wheeling creek, 351 miles from Richmond, 56 miles from Pittsburg, and 365 above Cincinnati. The hills hack of the city come near the river, so as to leave but a limited area for building, so that the place is forced to extend along the high alluvial bank for two miles. A fine stone bridge over Wheeling creek connects the upper and lower portions of the city. Wheeling is the most important place on the Ohio River between Cincinnati and Pittsburg. It is surrounded by bold hills containing inexhaustible quantities of bituminous coal, from which the numerous manufacturing establishments are supplied at a small expense. The place contains several iron foundries, cotton mills, and factories of various kinds. A. large business is done in the building of steam- boats. Population 1860, 14,000, The National Road, from Cumberland across the Alleghany Mountains to St. Louis, passes through Wheeling, and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad terminates here, making this place a great thoroughfare of travel between the east and west. The Ohio River is crossed here by a magnificent wire sus- pension bridge, erected at a cost of upward of $200,000. Its span, one of the longest in the world, measures 1,010 feet. The hight of the towers is 153 feet above low water mark, and 60 above the abutments. The entire bridge is supported by 12 wire cables, 1,380 feet in length and 4 inches in diameter, each composed of 550 strands. These cables are laid in pairs, 3 pairs on each side of the flooring. In 1769 Col. Ebenezer Zane, his brothers Silas and Jonathan, with some others from the south branch of the Potomac, visited the Ohio for the pur- pose of making improvements, and severally proceeded to select posi- tions for their future residence. They chose for their residence the site now occupied by the city of Wheeling, and having made the requisite preparations returned to their former homes, and brought out their families the ensuing 40 WEST VIRGINIA. year. The Zanes \vete men of enterprise, tempered with prudence, and di- rected by sound judgment. To the bravery and good conduct of these three brothers, the Wheeling settlement was mainly indebted for its security and preservation during the war of the revolution. Soon after the settlement of this place other settlements were made at different points, both above and be- low Wheeling, in the country on Buffalo, Short and Grave creeks. The name of Wheeling was originally Wceling, which in the Delaware Ian- gunge signifies the place, of a head. At a very early day, some whites de- scending the Ohio in a boat, stopped at the mouth of the creek and were mur- dered by Indians. The savages cut off the head of one of their victims, and placing it on a pole with its face toward the river, called the spotWecling. Southern View of Wheeliixj. The view shows the appearance of Wheeling as it id enteveil upon the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Th steamlioat landing and part of the city arc seen in the central part. The suspension bridge crossing over tt Wlitvliiig Island on the left. Part of the railroad depot is on the right. The most important event in the history of Wheeling was the siege of For'u Henry, at the mouth of Wheeling creek, in September, 1777. The fort was originally called Fort Fincastle, and was a place of refuge for the settlers in Dunmore's war. The name was afterward changed to Henry, in honor of Patrick Henry. The Indians who besieged the fort were estimated at from :)80 to 500 warriors, led on by the notorious Simon Girty. The garrison numbered only 42 fighting men, under the command of Col. Shepherd. The savages made several attempts to force themselves into the fort; they were driven back by the unerring rifle shots of the brave little garrison. A rein- forcement of about 50 men having got into the fort, the Indians raised the siege, ^having lost from GO to 100 men. The loss of the garrison was 26 killed, all of whom, excepting three or four, fell in an ambuscade outside the WEST VIRGINIA. 41 walls before the attack on the fort commenced. The heroism of Elizabeth Zane during the siege is worthy of record. This heroine had but recently returned from school at Philadelphia, and was totally unused to such scenes as were daily transpiring on the frontier : "The stock of gunpowder in the fort having been nearly exhausted, it was de- termined to seize the favorable opportunity offered by the suspension of hostilities to send for a keg of gunpowder which was known to be in the house of Ebenezer Zane, about sixty yards from the gate of the fort. The person* executing this ser- vice would necessarily expose himself to the danger of being shot down by the In- dians, who were yet sufficiently near to observe everything that transpired about the works. The colonel explained the matter to his men, and, unwilling to order one of them to undertake such a desperate enterprise, inquired whether any man would volunteer for the service. Three or four young men promptly stepped for- ward in obedience to the call. The colonel informed them that the weak state of the garrison would not justify the absence of more than one man, and that it was for themselves to decide who that person should be. The eagerness felt by each volunteer to undertake the honorable mission prevented them from making the ar- rangement proposed by the commandant; and so much time was consumed in the contention between them that fears began to arise that the Indians would renew the attack before the powder could be procured. At this crisis, a young lady, the sister of Ebeuezer and Silas Zane, came forward and desired that she might be permitted to execute the service. This proposition seemed so extravagant that it met with a peremptory refusal; but she instantly renewed her petition in terms of redoubled earnestness, and all the remonstrances of the colonel and her relatives failed to dissuade her from her heroic purpose. It was finally represented to her that either of the young men. on account of his superior flectness and familiarity with scenes of danger, would be more likely than herself to do the work success- fully. She replied that the danger which would attend the enterprise was the identical reason that induced her to offer her services, for, as the garrison was very w r eak, no soldier's life should be placed in needless jeopardy, and that if she were to fall her loss would not be felt. Her petition was ultimately granted, and the gate opened for her to pass out. The. opening of the gate arrested the attention of several Indians who were straggling through the village. It was noticed that their eyes were upon her as she crossed the open space to reach her brother's house; but seized, perhaps, with a sudden freak of clemency, or believing that a woman's life was not worth a load of gunpowder, or influenced by some other unexplained motive, they permitted her to pass without molestation. When she reappeared with the powder in her arms the Indians, suspecting, no doubt, the character of her burden, elevated their firelocks and discharged a volley at her as she swiftly glided toward the gate, but the balls all flew wide of the mark, and the fearless girl reached the fort in safety with her prize. The pages of history may furnish a parallel to the noble exploit of Elizabeth Zane, but an instance of greater self- devotion and moral intrepidity is not to be found anywhere." Sixteen miles above Wheeling on the river is the thriving business town of Wdlsbury. Eight miles east of this place in a healthy, beau- tiful site among the hills, is the flourishing institution known as Beth- any College. It was founded by Elder Alexander Campbell, and is conducted under the auspices of the Disciples or Christians. Their peculiarity is that they have no creed just simply a belief in the BIBLE as the sufficient rule of Christian faith and practice; thus leav- ing its interpretation free to each individual mind. Below Wheeling eleven miles, at the village of Moundsville, on the river flats, is the noted curiosity of this region, the Mammouth Mound. It is 69 feet in height, and is in full view of the passing steamers. An aged oak, cut down on its summit some years since, showed by its concentric circles that it was about 500 years old. 42 WEST VIRGINIA. Point Pleasant is a small village at the junction of the Kanawha with the Ohio. It is noted as the site of the most bloody battle ever fought with the Indians in Virginia the battle of Point Pleasant which took place in Dun- more's war, Oct. 10, 1774. The Virginians, numbering 1,100 men, were under the command of Gen. Andrew Lewis. The Indians were under the celebrated Shawnee chieftain Cornstalk, and comprised the flower of the Shawnee, Wyandot, Delaware, Mingo and Cayuga tribes. The action lasted from sunrise until sunset, and was contested with the most obstinate bravery on both sides. The Virginians at length were victorious, but with a loss of more than 200 of their number in killed and wounded, among whom were some of their most valued officers. This event was made the subject of a rude song, which is still preserved among the mountaineers of western Vir- ginia : SONG ON THE SHAWNEE BATTLE. Let us mind the tenth day of October, By which the heathen were confounded, Seventy-four, which caused woe, Upon the banks of the Ohio. The Indian savages they did cover The pleasant banks of the Ohio. Col. Lewis and some noble captains Did down to death like Uriah go, The battle beginning in the morning, Alas 1 their heads wound up in napkins, Throughout the day it lashed sore, Upon the banks of the Ohio. Till the evening shades were returning down Upon the banks of the Ohio. Kings lamented their mighty fallen Upon the mountains of Gilboa, Judgment precedes to execution, And now we mourn for brave Hugh Allen, Let fame throughout all dangers go, Far from the banks of the Ohio. Our heroes fought with resolution Upon the banks of the Ohio. bless the mighty King of Heaven For all his wondrous works below, Seven score lay dead and wounded Who hath to us the victory given, Of champions that did face their foe, Upon the banks of the Ohio. Ceredo is a new town established by Eli Thayer, of Massachusetts, just before the rebellion, and settled by New England emigrants. It is on the Ohio river, about five miles above the line of West Virginia and Kentucky. The settlement was nearly broken up by the rebel- lion. A few miles above it is Gruyandotte, which was mostly burnt in the war. CHARLESTON is the most important town in West Virginia excepting Wheeling and Parkersburg. It is in the rich valley of the Kanawha, 46 miles east of the Ohio river, and contains several thousand people. The mineral wealth of this valley is immense in salt and coal. In coal alone, it has been said, this valley could supply the whole world for fifty years, if it could be had from no other source. The Kanawha salt works commence on the river near Charleston and extend on both sides fpr nearly fifteen miles. Millions of bushels of salt are annually manufactured. The salt water is drawn from wells bored in solid rock from 300 to 500 feet in depth. Bituminous coal, which abounds in the neighborhood, is used in the evaporation of the water. LEWISBURG is an important town near the southeastern line of the state, on the direct road from Charleston to Richmond, about 100 miles east from the former, and 200 west from the latter; near it and in the same county, are the Blue Sulphur and White Sulphur Springs: the latter, the most celebrated watering place in the south : long the fa- vorite resort of the wealthy planters and prominent politicians of the south. WEST VIRGINIA. 43 The situation of the White Sulphur Springs is charming, it is in a beautiful valley environed by softly curving mountains. Fifty acres or more are occupied with lawns and walks, and the cabins and cot- tages for the guests, built in rows around the public apartments, the diu ing-room, the ball-room, etc., which give the place quite a village air. The rows of cottages are variously named, as Alabama row, Louisiana, Paradise, Baltimore, Virginia, Georgia, Wolf and Bachelor rows, Broadway, the Virginia lawn, the Spring, the Colonnade, and other specialities. The cottages are built variously, of brick, wood and logs, one story high. The place is 205 miles west from Richmond, and 242 soutlnvest of Washington City. In the northern part of the state, in the rich valley of the Monon- gahela, are some thriving noted towns, as Morgantown, Clarksburg, Weston, etc. At the latter place is the state Asylum for the Insane. The Baltimore & Ohio railroad is doing much for the development of this region of the state. This great work of engineering skill is hero given a more than passing notice. The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, 379 miles in length, extending from the waters of the Chesapeake, at Baltimore, to those of the Ohio, at Wheel- ing, is one of the greatest works of engineering skill on the continent. This im- portant undertaking owes its origin to the far-reaching sa- gacity of Philip E. Thomas, a Quaker merchant of Balti- more, who lived to see its completion, although nearly thirty years had elapsed from the time of its commence- ment. At that period, Bal- timore city was worth hut $25,000,000, yet it unhesita- tingly embarked in an enter- prise which cost 31,000,000. The first stone was laid on the 4th of July, 1828, by the venerable Charles Car- roll, of Carrollton, who pro- nounced it, next to signing the declaration of indepen- dence, the most important act of his life. TKAT Run VIADUCT, B. & 0. BAILBOAD. This elegant structure is of cast iron, GOO feet in length, and 150 feet above the level of the stream. " This was at a very early period in the history of rail- ways ; and during the progress of the work, from year to year, old theories were exploded and new principles introduced, increasing in boldness and originality as it advanced. Its annual reports went forth as text books ; its workshops were practical lecture rooms, and to have worthily graduated in this school, is an hon- orable passport to scientific service in any part of the world. In its struggles with unparalleled difficulties financial, physical, legislative and legal the gallant little state of Maryland found men equal to each emergency as it arose, and the 44 WEST VIRGINIA. development of so much talent and high character in various departments. slumM uet be esteemed the smallest benefit which the country has derived from this great enterprise." ''The line of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, traversing the Alleghanies, has already become somewhat classic ground. The vicinity of Harper's Ferry, old Fort Frederick, Cumberland, and other portions along the Potomac River, have long been known to the world for their imposing scenery, as well as for their historical interest. It is beyond Cumberland, however, that the grandest and most effective views on this route are presented. The Piedmont grade; Oakland, with its inviting summer atmosphere ; Valley River Falls ; the Monongahela, and other attractive points, inspire wonder in all who witness them. Nor should the grand scientific features of the Baltimore and Ohio Road be overlooked. To say nothing of its unique and most successfully planned grades (by which an elevation of nearly three thousand feet above tide is reached), there are its numerous splendid bridges of iron, and brick, and stone; its massive build- ings of all kinds ; its solidly arched tunnels, and numerous other features, devel- oping the greatest skill and ingenuity upon the part of the strong minds which wrought them. The longest finished tunnel in America is King wood Tunnel, 261 miles from Baltimore ; it is four fifths of a mile in length, and cost more than a million of dollars! Our engraving of ' Tray Run Viaduct,' " says Leslie's Pictorial, from which this is copied, " is from an accurate and faithful drawing, made upon the spot, by Mr. D. C. Hitchcock, our artist, who has also been engaged in taking numerous views on this attractive route for the London Illustrated News. Appropriate to our no- tice of the Tray Run Viaduct, we may quote the following paragraphs from the 'Book of the Great Railway Celebration of 1857,' published by the Appletons : Cheat River is a rapid mountain stream, of a dark coffee colored water, which is sup- posed to take its hue from the forests of laurel, hemlock and black spruce in which it. has its rise. Our road crossed the stream at the foot of Cranberry grade by a viaduct. This is composed of two noble spans of iron, roofed in on abutments, and a pier of solid free- stone taken from a neighboring quarry. Arrived at this point, we fairly entered the ' Cheat River valley,' which presents by far the grandest and most boldly picturesque scenery to Lc found oh the line of this road, if indeed it is not the finest series of railroad views on our continent. The European travelers in our party were as much enraptured by it a? were those of us who have never visited the mountains, lakes and glens of Scotia or Switzer- land. For several miles, we ran along the steep mountain side, clinging, as it were, to the gigantic cliffs, our cars like great cages suspended though upon the safest and most solid of beds midway, as it were, between heaven and earth. At one moment the view v. ;:s confined 'to our immediate locality, hemmed in on every side, as we were, by the towering mountain spurs. At the next, a slight curve in the road opened to view line- stretches of the deep valley, with the dark river flowing along its bottom, and glorious views of the for- est-covered slopes descending from the peaks to the water's edge. Amazed at the grand- eur of the ever-varying scenery of this region, a French gentleman i said to have ex- claimed in ecstacy, ' Mayni/iquc! Zcre is nossing likcsisin France! ' The engineering dif- ficulties, overcome in the part of the road within the first few miles west of Cheat River bridge, must have been appalling , but for us the rough places had been made smooth as the prairie levels. After crossing this river itself, at Rowlesburg, the next point was to as- cend along its banks the ' Cheat River hill.' The ravine of Kyer's run, a mile from the bridge, 76 feet deep, was crossed by a solid embankment. Then, after bold cutting along the steep, rocky hill side, we reached Buckeye hollow, which is 108 feet below the road level, and finally came to Tray run, which we crossed at a hight of 150 feet above its original bed by a, splendid viaduct, GOO feet long, founded on a massive base of masonry piled upon tin; solid rock below. These viaducts are of iron designed by Mr. Albert Fink, one of Mr. Latrobe's assistants and are exceedingly graceful, as well as very substantial struc- tures. When we reached the west end of the great Tray run viaduct, the cars halted, and the company alighted for a better view of the works. A walk of a few feet brought u.s to the brow of the precipice overlooking the river, nearly 300 feet below. The view from this spot, both of the scenery and the grand structure which so splendidly spanned the immense mount- ain ravine, was truly inspiring. From our great elevation the stream appeared to be almost beneath our feet, au illusion promptly dispelled when the strongest and longest armed among us failed to throw a stone far enough to drop in its bed. With the entire train full of guests, the band also, alighted here, and taking position near the cliff, struck up the pop- ular air of ' Love Not,' in sweet harmony with the emotions inspired by the scene. KENTUCKY. KENTUCKY was originally included in the limits of Virginia, and the name, said to signify, in the Indian tongue, "The dark and bloody ground," is in- dicative of her early conflicts with a wily and savage foe. The first ex- plorer of her territory of whom we have any very definite knowledge was Col. James Smith, who traveled westward in 1766, from Holston River, with three men and a mulatto slave. The beautiful tract of country near the Kentucky River appears to have been reserved by the Indians as a hunting (/round, and consequently none of their settlements were found there. The dark forests and cane thickets of Kentucky separated the Creeks, Chcrokees and Catawbas of the south from the hostile tribes of the Shawnees, Wynndots and Delawares of the north. In 1767, John Findley and some others made a trading expedition from North Carolina to this region. In 17(50, Daniel Boone (the great pioneer of Kentucky), with five others, among whom was Findley, undertook a journey to explore the country. After a long fatiguing march over a mountainous wilderness, they arrived upon its borders, and from an eminence discovered the beautiful valley of the Ken- tucky. Boone and his companions built a cabin on Red River, from whence they made. various excursions. Boone being out hunting one day, in com- pany with a man named Stuart, was surprised and both taken prisoners by the Indians. They eventually succeeded in making their escape. On re- gaining their camp, they found it dismantled and deserted. The fat,e of its inmates was never ascertained. After an absence of nearly three years, Boone returned to his family in North Carolina. In 1770, Col. James Knox led into Kentucky a party from Holston, on Ulinch River, who remained in the country about the same length of time v.-itii Boone's party, and thoroughly-explored the middle and southernvpart of the country. Boone's party traversed the northern and middle region with great attention. Although both parties were in the country together, they 45 ARMS OF KENTUCKY. 4$ KENTUCKY. never met. When these pioneers returned, they gave glowing description? of the fertility of the soil throughout the western territories of Virginia and North Carolina. The lands given to the Virginia troops for their services in the French war were to be located on the western waters, and within two years after the return of Boone and Knox, surveyors were sent out for this purpose. In 1773, Capt. Bullitt led a party down the Ohio to the Falls, where a camp was constructed and fortified. In the summer of 1774, parties of surveyors and hunters followed, and within the year James Harrod erected a log cabin where Harrodsburg is now built; this soon grew into a settlement or station the oldest in Kentucky. In 1775, Daniel Boone constructed a fort, afterward called Boonesborough, during which time his party was exposed to fierce attacks from the Indians. By the middle of April, the fort was completed, and soon after his wife and daughters joined him and resided in the fort the first white women who ever stood on the banks of Kentucky River. In 1775, the renowned pioneer Simon Kenton erected a log cabin where the town of Washington now stands, in Mason county. In the winter of this year, Kentucky was formed into a county by the legislature of Virginia. In the spring of 1777, the court of quarter sessions held its first sitting at Har- rodsburg. The years 1780 and 1781 were distinguished for a great emigration to Ken- tucky, and great activity in land speculations, and by inroads of the Indians. In 1780, an expedition of Indians and British troops, under Col. Byrd, threat- ened the settlements with destruction. Cannon were employed against the stockade forts, some of the stations were destroyed, and the garrisons taken. In 1781, every portion of the country was continually in alarm, and many lives were lost. The most important battle between the whites and Indians ever fought on its soil was on the 19th of August, 1782, near the Blue Lick Springs. The celebrated Col. Boone bore a prominent part in this engage- ment, in which he lost a son. The whites numbered but 182, while the In- dians were twice or thrice that number. From the want of due caution in advancing against the enemy, they were, after a short but severe action, routed with the loss of seventy-seven men and twelve wounded. Kentucky being the first settled of the western states, a large number of expeditions were sent out by her from time to time against the Indians in the then wilderness coun- try north of the Ohio; these were mostly within the present limits of Ohio, which thus became the battle ground of Kentucky, and was watered with the blood of her heroic pioneers. After the revolutionary war, there was a period of political discontent. This arose partly from the inefficient protection of Virginia and the old fed- eral congress against the inroads of the Indians, and partly by a distrust lest the general government should surrender the right to navigate the Missis- sippi to its mouth. Kentucky was the central scene of the imputed intrigues of Aaron Burr and his coadjutors to form a western republic. What the precise designs of Burr really were has perhaps never been fully understood. Kentucky took an active part in the war of 1812. After the surrender of Hull at Detroit, the whole quota of the state, consisting of upward of 5,000 volunteers, was called into active service. In addition to these, a force of mounted volunteers was raised, and at one time upward of 7,000 Kentuckians are said to have been in the field, and such was the desire in the state to KENTUCKY 47 enter into the contest that executive authority was obliged to interpose to limit the number. At this period, Isaac Shelby, a hero of the revolutionary war, was governor of the state. At the barbarous massacre of the Iliver Raisin, and also in the unfortunate attempt to relieve Fort Meigs, many of her brave sons perished. In the recent war with Mexico, several of her distinguished citizens engaged in the contest. Kentucky was separated from Virginia in 1786, after having had several conventions at Danville. In 1792, it was received ink) the Union as an in- dependent state. The first constitution was formed in 1790, the second in 1796. The financial revulsion which followed the second war with Great Britain was severely felt in Kentucky. The violence of the crisis was much enhanced in this state by the charter of forty independent banks in 1818, with a capital of nearly ten millions of dollars, which were permitted to re- deem their notes with the paper of the bank of Kentucky. The state was soon flooded with the paper of these banks. This soon depreciated, and the state laws were such that the creditor was obliged to receive his dues at one half their value. The people of the state became divided into two parties; the debtor party, which constituted the majority, was called the Relief, and the creditors the Anti-Relief party. The judges of the courts declared the acts of the legislature, in sustaining the currency, unconstitutional. The ma- jority attempted to remove them from office by establishing new courts; the people became divided into the "new court" and "old court" parties. The contest was finally decided in the canvass of 1826, when the old court party pervailed. Kentucky is bounded N. by the Ohio River, separating it from the states of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois; E. by Virginia; \V. by the Mississippi River, sepa- rating it from Missouri, and S. by Tennessee. It is situated between 36 30' and 39 10' N. Lat., and between 81 50' and 89 20' W. Long. Its length is about 400 miles, and its breadth 170 miles, containing 37,680 square miles. Kentucky presents a great diversity of surface. In the eastern part, where it is bordered by the Cumberland Mountains, there are numerous lofty eleva- tions; and on the Ohio River, through nearly the whole extent of the state, there is a strip of hilly but fertile land from five to twenty miles in breadth. On the margin of the Ohio are numerous tracts of bottom lands, which are periodically overflowed. Between the hilly country of the more mountain- ous eastern counties and Green River i^i fertile tract, frequently called the "garden of the state." This is in the blue limestone region, in the midst of which is the beautiful town of Lexington. The line demarking this region passes from the Ohio round the heads of Licking and Kentucky Rivers, Dick's River, and down Great Green River to the Ohio; and within this compass of above one hundred miles square is found one of the most fertile and extraordinary countries on which the sun has ever shone. The soil is of a loose, deep and black mold, without sand on first-rate lands, from two to three feet deep and exceedingly luxuriant in all its productions. It is well watered by fine springs and streams, and its beautiful climate and the salubrity of the country are unequalled ; the winter, even, being seldom so inclement as to render the housing of cattle necessary. In a state of nature, nearly the whole surface of this region was covered with a dense forest of majestic trees, and a close undergrowth of gigantic reeds, forming what in the country are called canebrakes. In the southern part, however, on the head waters of Green River and its tributaries, is an extensive tract, thinly 48 KENTUCKY wooded, and covered in summer with high grass growing amid scattered and stunted oaks. Struck with the contrast this region presented to the luxu- riant forests of the neigboring districts, the first settlers gave the country the unpromising name of "barrens." In 1800, the legislature considering this tract but of little value, made a gratuitous grant of it to actual settlers. This land proved to be excellent for grain, and also adapted to the raising of cattle. The whole state, below the mountains, has, at the usual depth of eight feet, a bed of limestone, which has frequent apertures. The rivers have generally worn deep channels in the calcareous rocks over which they flow. There are precipices on the Ken- tucky Iliver of solid limestone 300 feet .high. Iron ore and coal are widely diffused; coal, especially, occupies an extensive field. Salt springs are nu- merous, and mineral springs are found in many places. The great agricul- tural productions are hemp, flax, Indian corn, tobacco, wheat and live stock. More than half of all the hemp raised in the Union is grown in Kentucky. Population, in 1790, 73,077; in 1820, 564,317; in 1840, 779,828; in 1850, 982,405 ; in 1860, 1,185,567, of whom 225,490 were slaves. South-eastern view of Frankfort. Showing the appearance of the pliico from the railroad. Tho southern eiitrmicp of the hiiinol through the limestone bluff, and tinder the State Arspnal und foot path to the (irmt'ti-ry, is *pan on the rip;ht. Th<- tol and some other public buildings are seen in the central part, Kentucky Iliver in front on thr let:, FRANKFORT, the capital of Kentucky, is 25 miles N. W. from Lexington, nnd 53 E. from Louisville. It is beautifully situated on the right or north- east bank of Kentucky Iliver, 60 miles above its mouth, in the midst of the wild and picturesque scenery which renders that stream so remarkable. The city stands on an elevated plain between the river and the high bluffs, which rise 150 feet immediately behind the town. The river, which is navigabln for steamboats to this place, is ncrirly 100 yards wide, and flows through :: deep channel of limestone ro^k. A chain bridge crosses the river here, i on nccting the city with South Frankfort, its suburb. The railroad from Lex- KENTUCKY 49 STATE HHUSK, FUANKFOBT. ington passes into tlio city in a tunnel through the limestone rock or lodge on which the State Arsenal is erected. Frankfort is well built, and has tine edifices of brick and Kentucky marble. The State House is a handsome ed.- ifice of white marble. The iV -^ . city is well supplied with ex- cellent spring water, which is ^ conveyed into the town by iron pipes. The State Peni- tentiary is located here, and the trade of the place is fa- cilitated by railroads in vari- ous directions. The Ken- tucky Military Institute, a thriving institution, is in the vicinity of Frankfort. Popu- lation about 5,000. "Frankfort was established by the Virginia legislature ic 1786, though the first survey of 600 acres was made by Robert McAfee, on the IGth of July, 1773. The seat of government was located in 1792, and the first session of the assembly was held in 1793. The public buildings not being ready, the legislature assembled in a large frame house belonging to Maj. James Love, on the bank of the river, in the lower part of the city." The Frankfort Cemetery is laid out on the summit of the high and commanding bluff's which imme- diately rise in an eastern direc- tion from the city. The "Mili- tary Monument" (an engraving of which is annexed) was erected in pursuance of an act of the legisla- ture, Feb., 1848. The following inscriptions and names are en- graved upon it, viz: MILITARY MOXUMKXT ERECTKU BY KENTUCKY, A. D., 1X60. Mexico, Lt J. \V. Powell ; Bonnex- boroiii/h, liar mar's Defeat, Capt. J. McMurtsy; Monterey, P. M. Uar- liuur; Biiena Vista, Col. William K. McKee, Lieut. Col. Clay, Capt. Wni. T.Willis, Adjutant E." P. Vaughn ; /\r?.v/H. Col. John Allen, Maj. IJenja- n>in Graves, Capt. John Woo! folk, ('apt. N. (1. S. Hurt, Capt. Jamos Moal.>, Cant. Hubert Edwards, C.ipt. Virgil Mu- Cracken, Capt. William Price, Capt. John Kdnuindson, C-u>t John Simpsim. Cnpr Pascal Ilickman, Lieut. .John Williamson; ThaiHi.v, Col. Wm. Wliitley, Cnpti Eiij.th Th liour ; MILITARY MDNTMRNT, FRANKFORT. Hiiiull moniiin'-iit in fnnif is rlmt. <>f Maj. 1^-r- in tliedistHiice U - HIS WIFE AT FKASKKOUT. The graves of Boone anil his wife are without a monument save the forest scene by which they are surrounded. The sj>ot where they were interred IH at the foot of the two trees, around which is a simple hoard neat. It is neur the edge of the high bluff rising from the river. The beautiful valley of Kentucky River U seen in the extreme distance. HARRODSBURG, the county seat of Mercer county, is situated near the geographical center of the state, thirty miles south from Frankfort, on an eminence, 1 mile from Salt River and 8 miles from Kentucky River. It contains the county buildings, 7 churches, 2 banks 25 stores, several manu- facturing establishments, the Kentucky University, 2 female colleges, and about 2,500 inhabitants. Bacon College, founded in 1836, under the pat- ronage of the Christian denomination, is located in this place. The Har 50 KENTUCKY. rodsburg Springs are celebrated for the medicinal virtue of their waters, and for the beauty and extent of the adjoining grounds. According to some authorities, Harrodsburg was the first settled place in Kentucky. In July, 1773, the McAfee company from Bottetourt county. Va., visited this region, and surveyed lands on Salt River. Capt. James Jl.irrod, with forty-one men, descended the Ohio River from the Mononga- hclii, in May, 1774, and penetrating into the intervening forest made hu- principal camp about one hundred yards below the town spring, under the branches of a large elm tree. About the middle of June, Capt. Harrod and companions laid off a town plot (which included the camp), and erected a number of cabins. The place received the name of Harrodstown, afterward Oldtown, and finally the present name of Harrodsburg. The first corn raised in Kentucky was in 1775, by John Harmon, in a field. at the east end of Harrodsburg. During the year 1777, the Indians, in great numbers, col- lected about Harrodsburg, in order, it was supposed, to prevent any corn being raised for the support of the settlers. In this period of distress and peril, a lad by the name of Ray, seventeen years of age, rendered himself an object of general favor by his courage and enterprise. He often rose before day, and left the fort on an old horse to procure (by hunting) food for the garrison. This horse'was the only one left unslaughtered by the Indians of forty brought to the country by Major M'G-ary. He proceeded, on these occasions, cautiously to Salt River, generally riding in the bed of some small stream to conceal his course. When sufficiently out of hearing, he would kill his load of game and bring it in to the suffering people of the fort aftei nightfall. LOUISVILLE, the seat of justice for Jefferson county, is the largest city in the state, and, next to Cincinnati and Pittsburg, the most important on the Ohio. It is situated on the left bank of the river, at the head of the rapids, 65 miles by railroad W. of Frankfort, 130 below Cincinnati, 590 W. by S. from Washington, and 1.411 above New Orleans. The city is built on a gentle ac- clivity, 75 feet above low watermark, on a slightly undulating plain. Eight handsome streets, nearly two miles in length, run east and west, parallel with the river: they are crossed by more than 30 others running at right angles. The situation and surrounding scenery of Louisville are beautiful, and from some parts is had a delightful view of the Ohio River and of the town of New Albany, a few miles below. Its Immediate trade extends into all the surrounding country, and em- braces within the state of Kentucky a circuit of one of the most productive regions of the world. The manufactures of Louisville are very extensive, embracing a great variety. It has founderies and machine shops, steam b;ig- ging factories, cotton, woolen and tobacco factories, mills of various kinds, distilleries, breweries, agricultural factories, etc. Ship building is also ex- tensively carried on. The trade of Louisville is estimated at one hundred millions of dollars annually. The principal agricultural exports are tobacco, pork, hemp, and flour. It is connected with its suburb Portland by a rail- road operated by horse power, and by a canal 2^ miles around the Falls of the Ohio, with a total lockage of 22 feet. It is also connected by railroads with the interior. Since the completion of the railroad to Nashville, an im- nien.se trade has opened with the south, which has given a great impulse to the prosperity of the city. Louisville contains many splendid public build- ings, 10 banks, about 50 churches, and a population, in 1860, of 75,196. The Medical Institute, organized iu 1837, by an ordinance of the city KENTUCKY. 53 council, ranks high among the public institutions of Louisville. The Uni- c<-r*i.ty of Louisville is in success! ul operation, and has buildings which are an ornament to the city. The Marine Hospital, designed as a refuge for sick View of the Central part of Louisville. The view shows the appearance of the central part of Louisville, from tlie Indiana side of the Ohio. The Ji.fiursou City Ft'iry Landing, and Gait House appear on ihe left, the Louisville Hotel in the dis- tance nn the right, the Court House and City Hall, the Catholic and other Churches in the central part. and infirm mariners, is an important public institution, located and established 'here in 1820, by a grant from the state of $40,000. Another Marine Asy- lum has been erected here by the general government. The Asylum for the H'iiid, established by the state in 1842, has a spacious building erected by the joint contributions of the state and citizens of Louisville. The students, beside their literary studies, are also instructed in various kinds of handi- craft, by which they can support themselves after leaving the institution. 8f. Juxr'/ilts Infirmary is a Catholic benevolent institution. The Kentucky ///*- t'/rirttl Sucit-fy, in this place, was incorporated in 1838: it has collected valua- ble documents relating to the early history of the state and of the west. The Mercantile Library Association has a large and valuable collection of books. The Arteuun Well, at Louisville, sends up immense quantities of mineral water of rare medicinal value in various complaints, proving a bless- ing as great as it was unexpected to the citizens. The following, relative to the first settlement, etc., of Louisville, is from Collins' Historical Sketches of Ky.: Captain Thomas Bullitt, of Virginia, nncle of the late Alexander Scott Hullitt, xviio was the first lieutenant-governor of Kentucky, is Raid to have laid oil' Louisville i:i 1773. This was before the first log cabin was built in Kentucky. For s;venil years after tins, the silence of the forest was undisturbed by the white man. The placo was occasionally visited by different persons, but no settlement was made nn- lil 1 77s. In the spring of this year, a p irty, consisting of a small number of families, came to the Falls with George Rogers Clark, and were left by him on an 54 KENTUCKY. island near the Kentucky shore, now called Corn Island. The name is suppose! to have been derived from the circumstance that the settlers planted their first In dian corn on this island. These settlers were sixty or seventy miles distant from any other settlement, and had nothing hut their insular position to defend them from the Indians. The posts in the \Vabash country, occupied by the British, served as points of support for the incursions of the savages. After these had been taken by Clark, the settlors were inspired with confidence, and. in the fall of 1778, removed from the island to the site now occupied by Louisville. Here a block house was erected, and the number of settlers was increased by the arrival of other emigrants from Virginia. In 1780, the legislature of Virginia passed 'an act for establishing the town of Louisville, at the falls of Ohio.' By this act, 'John Todd, jr., Stephen Trigg. Geo. Slaughter, John Floyd, William Pope, George Meriwether, Andrew Ilynes, James Sullivan, gentlemen,' were appointed trustees to lay oft" the town on a tract of one thousand acres of land, which had been granted to John Connelly by the British government, and which he had forfeited by adhering to the English monarch. Each purchaser was to build on his own lot 'a dwelling house sixteen feet by twenty at least, with a brick or stone chimney, to be finished within two years from the day of sale.' On account of the interruptions caused by the inroads of the Indians, the time was afterward extended. The state of the settlers was one of constant danger and anxiety. Their foes were continually prowling around, and it was risking their lives to leave the fort. The settlement at the falls was more exposed than those in the interior, on ac- count of the facility with which the Indians could cross and recross the river, and the difficulties in the way of pursuing them. The savages frequently crossed the river, and after killing some of the settlers, and committing depredations upon property, recrossed and escaped. In 1780, Colonel George Slaughter arrived at the Falls with one hundred and fifty state troops. The inhabitants were inspired with a feeling of security which led them frequently to expose themselves witli too little caution. Their foes were ever on the watch, and were continually destroying valuable lives. Danger and death crouched in every path, and lurked behind every tree. Medical and Late Colleges, Loninville. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the graveyards of Louisville, the tirst three being in the old yard in the city, the remainder in the Cave Hill Cemetery: Erected by Dr. J. M. Tnlbot to the memory of his Father, dipt. ISHAM TALBOT, who de- parted this life July 'M, 135'J, in his Slit year. He was born iu Virginia. At a tender age KENTUCKY. 55 he entered the Army of the Revolution, was in the memorable battles of Brandy wine, Ger- uaantown and Monmouth. Visited Ky. in '79, and after his permanent, location in '82, was in the disastrous engagement with the Indiana at the Lower Blue Licks. He sustained through life the character of a high minded, honorable gentleman. His Honesty and In- tegrity were never questioned, and far better than all, he died with a bright hope of enjoying eternal Life beyond the grave. REV. ISAAC McCoy, born June 13th, 1784, died Juno 21st, 1836. For near 30 years, his entire lime and energies were devoted to the civil and religious improvement of the Abo- riginal tribes of this country. He projected and founded the plan of their Colonization, their only hope, the imperishable monument of his wisdom and benevolence. The Indian's Friend, for them he loved through life, For them in death he breathed his final prayer. Now from his toil he rests the care the strife And waits in heaven, his works to follow there. To the memory of MAJOR JOHN HARRISON, who was born in Westmoreland Co., Virginia, A.D. 1754. After having fought for the Liberty of his Country during the struggles of the American Revolution, he settled in Louisville in 1786, and paid nature's final debt, July 15th, 1821. PEARSON FOLLAXSBF.E, City Missionary in Louisville, born March 4, 1808, in Vassalboro, Me., died Sept. 6th, 1846. " Ho went about doing good. His record is on high." 00 Sacred to the memory of JOHN McKiNr.EY, Associate Justice of the Supreme Court of (lie U. S. Born May 1, 1780; died July 19, 1852. " In his manner he was simple and ur.af- fected. and his character was uniformly marked with manliness, integrity and honor. He was a candid, impartial and righteous judge, shrinking from no responsibility. He was fearless in the performance of his duty, seeking only to do right, and fearing nothing but to do wrong." Hon. J. J. Critteiideii'v remark* in U. , one of the great wonders of the western world, is in Edmondson county, near the line of the Louisville and Nashville Irvit Jj.'id/je ore/' Grtt'n .tiiccr. Railroad, and about 90 miles from each of the two cities. It is said to have been explored to the distance of 10 miles without reachingits termination, while the aggregate width of all its branches exceeds forty miles. " The cave is approached through a romantic shade. At the entrance is a rush of cold air ; :t descent of 30 1'tet, Ky stone steps, and an advaneeof 150 feet inward, brings the visitor to tho door, in a solid stone wall, which blocks up the en- trance of the cave. A nar row passage leads to tho great vestibule, or ante chamber, an oval hall, '200 by 150 feet, and 50 feet high. Two passages, of one hundred feet width, open into it, and the whole is supported without a sin- gle column. This chamber was used liv tho races of yore as a cemetery, judg- ing from tlic hones of gi- gantic size which are dis- covered. A hundred feet GUTHIC CHAPE,., MAMM.TH CAVK. !lboVO 3'" r bead, VOU catch a fitful glimpse of a dark gray ceiling, rolling dimly away like a cloud; and heavy Imttresses, apparently KENTUCKY. 57 Lending under the superincumbent weight, project their enormous masses from the shadowy \vall. Tlie scene is vast, solemn, and awful. In the silence that pervades, you can distinctly hear the IhrohbingB of your heart. Jn Audnbon Avenue, load- '.ng from the hall, is a deep well of pure spring water, surrounded by stalagmite column? from (he floor to the roof. The Little Bat Room contains a pit of 2SO feet deep, and is the resort of myriads of bats. The Grand Gallery is a vast tun- nel, many miles long and 50 feet high, and as wide. At the end of the first quar- tur of a mile are the Kentucky Cliffy, and the Church, 100 feet in diameter and ii ! feet high. A natural pulpit and organ loft are not wanting. ' In tin's temple religious services have frequently been performed.' The Gothic Avenue, reached by a flight of stairs, is 40 feet wide, 15 feet high, and 2 miles long. Mummies have been discovered here, which have been the subject of curious study to science; 'h:-i\' are also stalagmites and stalactites in Louisa's Bower and Vulcan's Furnace. On the Avails of the Register Itoonis are inscribed thousands of names. The (lotliic C/iapa/, or Ktn?t/ forcon>nnjptivo patients the atmosphere being always temperate and pure. The Star C haml>cr presents an optical illusion. 'In looking up, the spectator seems to see the firmament itself, studded with stars, and afar off a comet with a bright tail.' The Temple is an immense vault, covering nn area of two acres, and covered by a single dome of solid rock, 120 feet high. It rivals the celebrated vault in the (h'otto of Antiparos, which is the largest in the world. In the middle of the dome there is a large mound of rocks rising on one side nearly to the top, very steep, and forming what is called the Mountain. The River Hall descends like the slope of a mountain; the ceiling stretches away before you, vast and grand as the firmament at midnight. A short distance on the left is a steep precipice, over which you can look down, by the aid of torches, upon a broad, black sheet of water, 80 feet below, called the Dead Sea. This is an awfully impressive place, the sights and sounds of which do not easily pass from memory." Mitij&oille is situated on the left bank of the Ohio, 73 miles N.E. from Fnmki'ort, 441 below Pittsburg, and 55 above Cincinnati by the river. It is beautifully located on a high bank, having a range of lofty verdant hills or bluffs rising immediately behind the city. Maysville has a good harbor, and is the port of a large and productive section of the state. Among the pub- lic buildings, there is a handsome city hall, 2 large seminaries, a hospital and 7 churches. Bagging, rope, machinery, agricultural implements, and various other articles, are extensively manufactured. It is one of the largest hemp markets in the Union. Population about 3,000. Maysville was known for many years as Limestone, from the Creek of that name, which here empties into the Ohio. It received its present name from John Mai/, the owner of the land, a gentleman fVom Virginia. The first set- tlement was made at this place in 1784, and a double log cabin and block house were built by Edward and John Waller, and George Lewis, of Vir- ginia. Col. Daniel Boone resided here in 1786, and while here made a treaty with the Indians at the mouth of Fishing Gut, opposite Maysville. The town was established in 1788. The first school was opened in 17UO, by Israel Donaldson, who had been a captive among the Indians. The frontier and exposed situation of Maysville retarded its progress for many years, and 58 KENTUCKY. it was not until about the year 1815, that its permanent improvement fairly commenced. It was incorporated a city in 18o3. 17f f/ie Month of Lickiuy River, Jie/iretn Newpwt and Covimjton. The Suspension Iiritlgu lietween Newport ami Covin^ton is seen in the central part, passing over Licking River. The U. S. Burrar.ks, in Newport, appear on the left, part of Covington on the right. COVINGTON is in Kenton county, on the west side of Licking River, at its mouth, also on the south bank of the Ohio, opposite Cincinnati, and at the northern terminus of the Kentucky Central Railroad: it is GO miles N.N.E. from Frankfort. It is built on a beautiful plain several miles in extent, and the streets are so arranged as to appear, from the hills back of Cincinnati, as a continuation of that city, of which, with Newport, it is a suburb. The fa- cilities of communication are such that many persons reside here, whose places of business are in Cincinnati. Its manufacturing interests are ex- tensive and varied. A magnificent suspension bridge is now constructing over the Ohio, to connect Covington with Cincinnati.- Population about 15,000. Newport is on a handsome plain, on the Ohio River, opposite Cincinnati: it is separated from Covington by Licking River, with which it is connected by a beautiful suspension bridge. An U. S. arsenal and barracks are located here. It contains several rolling mills, iron founderies, steam mills, etc. Population about 12,000. The valley of the Ohio, a short distance from the Licking, was the scene of a most sanguinary event years before white men had settled in this vicinity. It was Rogers' defeat and massacre, which occurred in the fall of 177!), at which time this spot, and the site of the now flourishing city of Cincinnati, opposite, was one dense forest : Col. David Rogers and Capt. Kenham, with 100 men, were in two largo keel boats, on their way from New Orleans, with supplies of ammunition .arid provis- ions for the western posts. In October, when near the mouth of the Licking, a fow Indians were seen, and supposing himself to be superior in numbers, Kodjgers landed to attack them, and was led into an Rtnbtuoade of 400 Indians. The whites fought with desperation, but in a furious onset with tomahawk and scalping-knife, tho commander, with about ninety of his men, were soon dispatched. The ecapo of Capt. Uenharn was almost miraculous. A shot passed through both legs, shat- KENTUCKY. 59 tering the bones. With great pain he dragged himself into the top of a fallen tree, where he lay concealed from the search of the Indians after the battle was over. He remained there until the evening of the next day, when, being in danger of famishing, he shot a raccoon which he perceived descending a tree near where he lay. Just at that moment he heard a human cry, apparently within a few rods. Supposing it. to be an enemy, he loaded his gun and remained silent. A second, and then a third halloo was given, accompanied by the exclamation, 'Whoever yon are, for God's sake answer me?' This time Benham replied, and soon found tin; unknown to be a fellow soldier, with both arms broken ! Thus each was enabled to supply the deficiency of the other. Benham could load and shoot game, while his companion could kick it to Benham to cook. In this way they supported them- selves for several weeks until their wounds heuled sufficiently to enable them to move down to the mouth of Licking Itiver, where they remained until the 27th of November, when a flat-boat appeared moving by on the river. They hailed the boat, but the crew fearing it to be an Indian decoy, at first refused to come to their aid, but eventually were prevailed upon to take them on board. Both of them re- covered. Benham served tli rough the Indian wars down to the victory of Wayne, and subsequently resided near Lebanon, Ohio, until his death, about the year 1808. The Blue Lick Springs is a watering place of high repute on the Licking River, in Nicholas county, 19 miles from Lexington, and 80 miles south- easterly from Covington. At an early period, the Licks became a place of much importance to the settlers, as it was chiefly here that they procured, at great labor and expense, their supply of salt. In modern times it has be- come a fashionable place of resort, the accommodations greatly extended, and the grounds improved and adorned. The Blue Lick water has become an article of commerce, several thousand barrels being annually exported. It was at this place, on the 19th of Aug., 1782, that a bloody battle was fought with the Indians, "which shrouded Kentucky in mourning," and, next to St. Glair's defeat, has become famous in the annals of savage war- fare. Just prior to this event, the enemy had been engaged in the siege of Bryant's Station, a post on the Elkhorn, about five miles from Lexington. As the battle was a sequel to the other, we give the narrative of the first in connection, as described in McClung's Sketches: In the summer of 1782, 600 Indians, under the influence of the British at De- troit, assembled at old Chillicothe, to proceed on an expedition to exterminate the " Long Knife" from Kentucky, and on the night of the 14th of August, this body gathered around Bryant's Station. The fort itself contained about forty cabins, placed in parallel lines, connected by strong palisades, and garrisoned by forty or fifty men. It was a parallelogram of thirty rods in length by twenty in breadth, forming an inclosure of nearly four acres, which was protected by digging a trench four or five feet deep, in which strong and heavy pickets were planted by ramming the earth well down against them. These were twelve feet out of the ground, being formed of hard, durable timber, at least a foot in diameter. Such a wall, it must be obvious, defied climbing or leaping, and indeed any means of attack, can- non excepted. At the angles were small squares or block-houses, which projected beyond the palisades, and served to impart additional strength at the corners, as well as permitted the besieged to pour a raking fire across the advanced party of the assailants. Two folding gates were in front and rear, swinging on prodigious wooden hinges, sufficient for the pas'sage in and out of men or wagons in times of security. These were of course provided with suitable bars. This was the state of things, as respects the means of defense, at Bryant's Sta- tion on the morning of the 15th of August, 1782, while the savages lay concealed in the thick weeds around it, which in those days grew so abundantly and tall, as would have sufficed to conceal mounted horsemen. They waited for daylight, and the opening of the gates for the garrison to get water for the day's supply from an adjacent spring, before they should commence the work of carnage. (JO KENTUCKY. It seems that the garrison here were rather taken off their guard. Some of (ho palisade work had not been secured as permanently as possible, and the original party which built the fort had been tempted, in the hurry of constructing and thcii fewness of hands, to restrict its extent, so as not to include a spring of water within its limits. ul/.er and Gordon; of the last six named, except Todd and M'Gary, all fell in the subsequent battle. A tumultuous conversation ensued, and it was unan- imously resolved to pursue the enemy forthwith, notwithstanding that they wero three to one in numbers. The Indians, contrary to their usual custom, left a broad and obvious trail, and manifested a willingness to be pursued. Notwithstanding, >.> KENTUCKY. such was the impetuosity of the Kentuckians, that they overlooked these consid orations, and hastened on with fatal resolution, most of them being mounted. The next day, about noon, they came, for the first time, in view of the enemy t the Lower Blue Licks. A number of Indians were seen ascending the rocky ridge on the opposite side of the Licking. They halted upon the appearance of the Kentuckians, and gazed at them a few moments, and then calmly and leisurely disappeared over the top of the hill. An immediate halt ensued. A dozen or twenty officers met in front of the ranks and entered into a consultation. The wild and lonely aspect of the country around them, their distance from any point of support, with the certainty of their being in the presence of a superior enemy, seoms to have inspired a portion of seriousness bordering upon awe. All eyes were now turned upon Boone, and Col. Todd asked his opinion as to what should be done. The veteran woodsman, with his usual unmoved gravity, replied: That their situation was critical and delicate ; that the force opposed to them was undoubtedly numerous and ready for battle, as might readily be seen from the leisurely retreat of the few Indians who had appeared on the crest of the hill; that he was well acquainted with the ground in the neighborhood of the Lick, and was apprehensive that an ambuscade was formed at the distance of a mile in advance, where two ravines, one upon each side of the ridge, ran in such a manner that a concealed enemy might assail them at once both in front and flank, before they were apprised of the danger. It would be proper, therefore, to do one of two things. Either to await the arri val of Logan, who was now undoubtedly on his march to join them, with a strong force from Lincoln, or, if it was determined to attack without delay, that one half of their number should march up the river, which there bends in an elliptical form, cross at the rapids and fall upon the rear of the enemy, while the other division attacked in front. At any rate, he strongly urged the necessity of rcconnoitering the ground carefully before the main body crossed the river. Boone was heard in silence and with deep attention. Some wished to adopt the first plan; others preferred the second; and the discussion threatened to be drawn out to some length, when the boiling ardor of M'Gary, who could never endure the presence of an enemy without instant battle, stimulated him to an rfct, which had nearly proved destructive to his country. He suddenly interrupted the consulta- tion with a loud whoop, resembling the war-cry of the Indians, spurred his horse into the stream, waved his hat over his head, and shouted aloud: 'Let all who are not cowards follow me ! ' The words and the action together, produced a i electri- cal effect. The mounted men dashed tumultuously into the river, each striving to be foremost. The footmen were mingled with them in one rolling and irregular mass. No order was given, and none observed. They struggled through a deep ford as well as they could. M'Gary still leading the van, closely followed by Majors Unr land and McBride. With the same rapidity they ascended the ridge, which, by the trampling of Buffalo foragers, had been stripped bare of all vegetation, with the exception of a few dwarfish cedars, and which was rendered still more desolate in appearance, by the multitude of rocks, blackened by the sun, which was spread over its surface. Suddenly the van halted. They had reached the spot mentioned by Boone, where the two ravines head, on each side of the ridge. Here a body of Indians presented themselves, and attacked the van. M'Gary's party instantly returned the fire, but under great disadvantage. They were upon a bare and open ridge; the Indians in a bushy ravine. The center and rear, ignorant of the ground-, hur- ried up to the assistance of the van, but were soon stopped by a terrible fire from the ravine, which flanked them. They found themselves inclosed as if in the wings of a net, destitute of proper shelter, while the enemy were, in a great measure, covered from their fire. Still, however, they maintained their ground. The action became warm and bloody. The parties gradually closed, the Indians emerged from the ravine, and the fire became mutually destructive. The officers sufi'orod dreadfully. Todd and Trigg, in the rear; Harland, Me Bride, and young Boone, in front, were already killed. The Indians gradually extended their line, to turn the ri^ht of the Kentuckians. KENTUCKY. (33 and cut off their retreat. This was quickly perceived by the weight of the fire from that quarter, and the rear instantly fell back in disorder, and attempted to rush through their only opening to the river. The motion quickly communicated itself to the van, and a hurried retreat became general. The Indians instantly sprung forward in pursuit, and falling upon them with their tomahawks, made n. cruel slaughter. From the battleground to the river, the spectacle was terrible. The horsemen generally escaped, but the foot, particularly the van, which had ad- vanced farthest within the wings of the net, were almost totally destroyed. Col. Boone, after witnessing the death of his son -and many of his dearest friends, found himself almost entirely surrounded at the very commencement of the ro- treat. Several hundred Indians were between him and the ford, to which the great mass of the fugitives were bending their flight, and to which the attention of the savages was principally directed. Being intimately acquainted with the ground, he, together with a few friends, dashed into the ravine which the Indians had occu- pied, but which most of them had now left to join in the pursuit. After sustaining one or two heavy fires, and baffling one or two small parties, who pursued him for a short distance, he crossed the river below the ford, by swimming, and entering the wood at a point where there was no pursuit, returned by a circuitous route to Bryant's Station. In the meantime, the great mass of the victors and vanquished crowded the bank of the ford. The slaughter was great in the river. The ford was crowded with horsemen and foot and Indians, all mingled together. Some were compelled to seek a passage above by swimming; some, who could not swim, were overtaken and killed at the edge of the water. A man by the name of Netherland, who had formerly been strongly suspected of cowardice, here displayed a coolness and presence of mind, equally noble and unexpected. Being among the first in gaining the opposite bank, he then instantly checked his horse, and in a loud voice, called upon his companions to halt, fire upon the Indians, and save those who were still m the stream. The party instantly obeyed, and facing about, poured a close and fatal discharge of rifles upon the foremost of the pursuers. The enemy instantly fell back from the opposite bank, and gave time for the harrassed and miserable footmen to cross in safety. The check, how- ever, was but momentary. Indians were seen crossing in great numbers above and below, and the flight again became general. Most of the foot left the great buffalo track, and plunging into the thickets, escaped by a circuitous route to Bryant's Station. But little loss was sustained after crossing the river, although the pursuit was urged keenly for twenty miles. From the battle-ground to the ford, the loss was very heavy; and at that stage of the retreat, there occurred a rare and striking in- stance of magnanimity, which it would be criminal to omit. The reader could not have forgotten young Reynolds, who replied with such rough but ready humor to the pompous summons of Girty, at the siege of Bryant's. This young man, after bearing his share in the action with distinguished gallantry, was galloping with several other horsemen in order to reach the ford. The great body of fugitives had preceded them, and their situation was in the highest degree critical anil dan- gerous. About half way between the battle-ground and the river, the party overtook Capt Patterson, on foot, exhausted by the rapidity of the flight, and in consequence of former wounds received from the Indians, so infirm as to be unable to keep up with the main body of the men on foot. The Indians were close behind him, and his fate seemed inevitable. Reynolds, upon coming up with this brave officer, in- stantly sprung from his horse, aided Patterson to mount into the saddle, and con- tinued his own flight on foot. Being remarkably active and vigorous, he contrived to elude his pursuers, and turning off from the main road, plunged into the river near the spot where Boone had crossed, and swam in safety to the opposite side. Unfortunately he wore a pair of buckskin breeches, which had become so heavy and full of water as to prevent his exerting himself with his usual activity, and while sitting down for the purpose of pulling them off, he was overtaken by a party of Indians, and made prisoner. 04 KENTUCKY. A prisoner is rarely put to death by the Tn lian*. unVss \v >;nd"d or in Finn, until .hoy return to their own country; and tlion his late is decided in solemn couii'-ii. Young Reynolds, therefore, was treated kindly, and compelled to accompany his i; iptors in the pursuit. A small party of Kentuokians soon attracted their atten- tion; and he was left in charge of three Indians, who, eager in pursuit, in turn committed him to the charge of one of their nuiul)er. wiiile they followed their companions. Reynolds and his guard jogged along very leisurely; the former to- faiiv unarmed; the latter, with a tomahawk and rifle in his h.i:id-<. At length the lad'.an stopped to tie his moccasin, when Reynolds instantly sprung upon him. k'v>cked him down with his fist, and quickly disappeared in the thicket which MU- rounded them. For his act oi' g3nerosity, Capt. Patterson afterward made him a iir,--eut of two hundred acres of first rate land. The melancholy intelligence rapidly spread throughout the country, and the whole land was covered with mourning, for it was the severest loss that Kjnru.-ky had ever experienced in Indian warfare, Sixty Kentuckians were slain and a number taken prisoners. The loss of the Indians, while the battle lasted, wa* ;\}~<> considerable, though far inferior to that of the whites. On the very day of the battle, 1 Col. Logan arrived at Bryant's Station with four hundred and fifty men. Fearful of some disaster, he marched on with the utmost diligence, and soon met the foremost of the fugitives. Learning from thorn the sad tidings, he continued on, hoping to coma up with the enemy at the field of battle which he reached on the second day. The enemy were gone, but the bodies of the Kentuckians still lay unburied on the spot where they had fallen. Immense Hocks of buzzards were soaring over the battle ground, and the bodies of the dead had become so much swollen and disfigured that it was impossible to recognize (he features of the most particular friends. Many corpses were floating near the shoro of the northern bank, already putrid from the ( ction of the sun, and partially eaten by fishes. The whole were carefully collected by Col. Logan, and interred" as de- cently as the nature of the soil would permit." South-western view of Lexington Court If miVs S.iv from F rank fort, 85 from Cincinnati, 77 S.K. from Louisville, and ">1~ from Wash 'ii'_ r ton City. The streets of Lexington are laid o-u at right angles, well paved, and bordered with ornamental trees. Many of the private residences and several of the public edifices are fine specimens of architectural tasle, while the surroundimi country, rich and highly cultivated, is adornerl with elegant mansions. The city cont-iins a court bouse, a Mason;;: Hall, the State Lunatic Asylum. 12 churches, the Transylva.ni-1 University, several aoademies and an orphan asylum. It is celebrated throughout the Union loi KENTUCKY. 65 its intelligent and polished society, and as an elegant place of residence. Population about 12,000. Lexington was founded in 1776. About the first of April in this year, a block house was built here, and the settlement commenced under the influ- ence of Col. Robert Patterson, joined by the Messrs. McConnels, Lindseys, and James Masterson. Maj. John Morrison removed his family soon after from Harrodsburg, and his wife was the first white woman in the infant set- tlement. It appears that a party of hunters in 1775, while encamped on the spot where Lexington is now built, heard of the first conflict between fhe British and Provincial forces, at Lexington, Mass. In commemoration of this event, they called the place of their encampment Lexington. Transylvania University, the oldest college in the state, was established in 1798, and has departments of law and medicine. The medical school has eight professors. Connected with the institution is a fine museum and a very valuable library, with chemical apparatus, etc. The State Lunatic Asylum lo- cated here is a noble institution. Lexington was incorporated by Virginia in 1782, and was for several years the seat of government of the state. The "Kentucky Gazette" was established here in 1787, by the brothers John and Fielding Bradford, and, excepting the Pittsburg Gazette, is the oldest paper west of the Alleghany Mountains. Ashland, the home of HENRY CLAY, is about one and a half miles from Lexington. Mr. Clay lived at Ashland between forty and fifty years. His house was a modest, spacious, agreeable mansion, two sto- ries high. Since the death of Mr. Clay, this building having become somewhat dilapidated and insecure, his son, James B. Clay, Esq., had it taken down and a more elegant edifice erected upon the same spot, and with but slight modifications of the original plan. Mr. Clay has many interesting relics of his father, which are care- fully preserved in the new building. The estate, consisting of about 600 acres, bore the name of Ash- land before it came into the possession of Mr. Clay, probably on account of the ash timber, with which it abounds. By Mr. C.'s management, it became one of the most delightful retreats in the west; the whole tract, except about 200 acres of park, was under the highest state of cultivation. When its illustrious occupant was living, it was the abode of elegant hospitality, and thousands then annually thronged thither to pay their respects to the states- man, who had such a hold upon the affections of his countrymen that, when he was defeated for the presidency, an intensity of sorrow* was every wherp *A friend tells us that he recollects attending, in a distant New England city, an im- promptu political meeting which had gathered in a public hall at this time. Various speeches of condolence had been made by those, who, in their ardor, had regarded the suc- cess of their candidate as identified with the salvation of their country, when an agod man, with silvered hair, arose to offer comfort in the general sorrow. lie had but three words ; but, Christian-like, he started for those three straightway to the BIBLE. He raised his tall slender form to its full hight, with palrus uplifted, and then bowing submissively, uttered in prayerful tones " The I^ord reign*!" ASIII.AMI, RESIDENCE OF HENRY CLAY. 66 KENTUCKY. exhibited that never was equalled by any similar occurrence in the history of the country. A stranger in the place not long subsequent, thus describes his impressions of the town and visit to Ashland: No where is there a more delightful rural tract in all our broad land, than that part of this state in the vicinity of Lexington the celebrated "blue grass" region of Kentucky. For miles and miles, in every direction, it is bedecked with grace- ful curving lawns, wood embowered cottages, and tall open forests, where not a shrub rises to mar the velvety sward that every where carpets the earth in living green. Enter the dwellings, and you will find them the abodes of elegance and taste. Your reception will he frank and hospitable. The town, Lexington, is well worthy of the country. It has a highly cultivated population, institutions of liter- ature, elegant mansions, partly concealed in groves of locusts, whose tiny fragile leaves gently dance in the sunlight to the softest zephyr, and is, moreover, the home of one whose very name holds a dear place in our memories. In a minor street of this beautiful town, is a plain two story brick edifice, over the doors of which is the sign, H. & J. B. CLAY. One morning, a few weeks since, I entered its plainly furnished office, and, in the absence of its occupants, helped myself to a chair and a newspaper, that industrious whig sheet, the New York Tribune. In a few minutes in walked a tall, elderly gentleman, attired in black coat, and white pantaloons. My eyes had never before rested upon him, but it needed not a second glance to know HENRY CLAY. I presented a letter of intro- duction, upon which, after some little conversation, he invited me out to tea at his seat, Ashland, some twenty minutes Avalk from the central part of the town. At the appointed hour, I was on my way thither, and from a gate on the roadside ap- proached the mansion by a winding path of maybe thirty rods in length. It stands on a smooth, undulating lawn of the purest green, fringed by a variety of trees. The open door disclosed to my view two elderly ladies, seated in one of the three rooms into which a common entry led. One of them, Mrs. Clay, called to me to walk in, and directed me to the flower garden in the rear of the house, where stood Judge 11., of Ohio, and her husband. The former, as I was introduced by Mr. Clay, received me with the stiffness of the north the latter met me in the cordial, off hand manner of an old acquaintance. He then showed us some rare plants, joked with his little grandchild, and we entered the house. Passing through the room where sat his lady and the wife of the judge, he pleasantly said " these ladies have some conspiracy together, let us walk into the parlor." On the hearth was an elegant rug, with the words worked in it, "PROTECTION TO AMERICAN INDUS- TRY; " around were busts and paintings. The furniture was old fashioned, but rich, and an air of comfort pervaded the apartment. Among the curiosities shown us by Mr. Clay, was the identical wine glass used by Washington through the Rev- olution. The conversation of Mr. Clay is frequently anecdotical, and his knowledge of all parts of our country, their condition, prospects and people, renders it easy foi him to adapt himself in familiar topics. to the great variety of characters that assemble at his residence. His manner is one of entire ease. Taking out a goLden snuff box, he drew in a pinch of its exhilarating powder with an air of solid satis- faction ; then spreading his handkerchief in his lap, he leaned forward his whole body, with his forearms folded and resting on his knees, and talked with us in the most genial, social way, like a fine, fatherly, old country gentleman as, indeed, he is. Now that I have seen Henry Clay, I do not wonder at the hold he has upon the affections of our people. Benevolence is the strongest expression in his counte- nance, and the humblest individual can not but feel, in his presence, as much at ease as if by his own fireside. His manner is irresistible: such as would enable him, if need there was, to say disagreeable things in a way that would occasion you to thank him for it. Literally, his is the power to give "hard facts with soft words." When Henry Clay walks the streets of Lexington, the citizens gaze upon him with pride, and greet him with pleasure. A kind word and a smile he has for every body, no matter what their age, sex, or condition; and little children run op KENTUCKY. 67 to take him by the hand, with a "how do you do, Mr. Clay?" My landlord, an Irishman by birth, said to me, "I have known Mr. Clay for many years, and am opposed to him in politics ; but I can not help liking the man." The corner stone of the Mon- ument erected to Henry Clay, in the Lexington Cemetery, was laid July 4, 1857, with imposing ceremonies, and the structure completed in 1858. It is con- structed of magnesian lime- stone, obtained from Boone's Creek, about 14 miles distant. The remains of Henry Clay, his mother, and some other rela- tives, are to be deposited in the vaulted chamber in the base of the monument. At the top of the column, the flutings are 13 spiked spears, representing the original states of the Union. The statue of Clay, surmount- ing the whole, is 11 feet in hight. The hight of the monument from the ground to the top of the statue is 119 feet. The fol- lowing inscription appears on one of the blocks of stone : HENRY CI.AY MONUMENT. Situated about amilo from the central part of Lexington, near the Railroad from Covington, in the Lexington Ceme- tery. " I would rather be right, than be President." National Guard, St. Louis, July 4th, 1857. The following inscription is copied from the monument of Maj. Barry, in the public square, or court house yard : To the memory of WILLIAM TAYLOR BAURY, this monument is erected by his friends in Kentucky (the site being granted by the County Court of Fayette), as a testimony of their respect and admiration of his virtues and talents. He was born 5th Feb., 1784, in Lunen- burg City, Va., and caiue to Kentucky in his 12th year. AVas successively a member of both Hortscs of the General Assembly, a Judge, a Senator and Representative in Congress, Lieut, ttov. of Ky., and an Aidecamp to Gov. Shelby at the battle of the Thames. On An- drew Jackson's accession to the Presidency, he was called to his Cabinet as Post Master General, which office he held until 1st of May, 1835, when he was appointed Env. Ex. e but the Dutchman and his wife that had been so affected under his sermon at meeting. Mr. Lee rode up and spoke to them, and inquired of the man what had happened, or what was the matter, that he was carrying his wife. The Dutchman turned to Mr. Lee and said, "Besure you did toll us in your sar- mon dat we must take tip iJe cross and follow de Saviour, or dat we could not be saved or go to heaven, and I does desire to go to heaven so much as any pody; and ^Hsh vife is so pad, she scold and scold all de time, and dish woman is de crcatest cross I have in de ichoh world, and I docs take her up and pare her, for I must stare my soul." From 1801, for years, a blessed revival of religion spread through almost the entire inhabited parts of the west, Kentucky, Tennessee, the Carolinas, and many other parts, especially through the Cumberland country, which was so called from the Cumberland River, which headed and mouthed in Kentucky, but in its great 78 KENTUCKY. bend circled south through Tennessee, near Xashville. The Presbyterians and Methodists in a great measure united in this work, met together, prayed together-, and preached together. In this revival originated our camp-meetings, and in both these denominations they were held every year, and, indeed, have been ever since, more or less. They would erect their camps with logs, or frame them, and cover them with clapboards or shingles. They would also erect a shed, sufficiently large to protect five thou- sand people from wind and rain, and cover it with boards or shingles; build a large stand, seat the shed, and here they would collect together from forty to fifty miles around, sometimes further than that. Ten, twenty, and sometimes thirty ministers, of different denominations, would come together and preach night and day, four or five days together; and, indeed, I have known these camp meetings to last three or four weeks, and great good resulted from them. I have seen more than a hundred sinners fall like dead men under one powerful sermon, and I have seen and heard more than five hundred Christians all shouting aloud the high praises of God at once ; and I will venture to assert that many happy thousands were awakened and converted to God at these camp meetings. Some sinners mocked, some of the old dry professors opposed, some of the old starched Presby- terian preachers preached against these exercises, but still the work went on and spread almost in every direction, gathering additional force, until our country seemed all coming home to God. In this great revival the Methodists kept moderately balanced ; for we had ex- cellent preachers to steer the ship or guide the flock. But some of our members ran wild, and indulged in some extravagancies that were hard to control. The Presbyterian preachers and members, not being accustomed to much noise or shouting, when they yielded to it went into great extremes and downright wild- ness, to the great injury of the cause of God. Col. Daniel Boone, the celebrated pioneer of Kentucky, was born of English parentage, in Pennsylvania, in 1734. When a small boy, his pa- * r rents emigrated to the banks of the Yadkin, in North Carolina. "At that time the region beyond the Blue Ridge was an unknown wilderness to the white people, for none had ventured thither, as far as is known, until about the year 1750. It was almost twenty years later than this, when Boone was approach- ing the prime of life, that he first penetrated the great Valley of the Mississippi, in company with others. He had already, as a bold hunter, been within the eastern verge of the present Kentucky, but now he took a long 'hunt' of about three years. He had made himself familiar with the wilderness, and in 1773, in company with other families, he started with his own to make a settlement on the Kain-tuck-ce River. The hostile Indians compelled them to fall back, and Boone resided on the Clinch River until 1775, when he went forward and planted the settlement of Boonesborough, in the present Madison county, Kentucky. There he built a log fort, and in the course of three or four years several other settlers joined him. His wife and daughters were the first white women ever seen upon the banks of the Kentucky River. He became a great annoyance to the Indians, and while at the Blue Licks, on the Licking River, in February, 1778, engaged with others in making salt, he was captured by some Shawnee warriors from the Ohio country, and taken to Chillicothe. The Indians became attached to him, and he was adopted into a family as a son. A ransom of five hundred dollars was offered for him, but the Indians refused it. He at length escaped (in July following his capture), when he ascertained that a large body of Indians were preparing to march against Boones~ borough. They attacked that station three times before the middle of September. but were repulsed. During Boone's captivity, his wife and children had returned to the house of her father, on the Yadkin, where the pioneer visited them in 1779, and remained with them for many months. He returned to Kentucky in 1780, with his family, and assisted Colonel Clark in his operations against the Indians in the Illinois country." KENTUCKY. 79 At the close of the war, Boone settled down quietly upon his farm. But he was not long permitted to remain unmolested. His title, owing to the imperfect nature of the land laws of Kentucky, was legally decided to be defective, and Boone was deprived of all claim to the soil which he had explored, settled, and so bravely de- fended. In 1795, disgusted with civilized society, he sought a new home in the wilds of the far west, on the banks of the Missouri, then within the dominion of Spain. He was treated there with kindness and attention by the public authorities, and he found the simple manners of that frontier people exactly suited to his pe- culiar habits and temper. AVith them he spent the residue of his days, and was gathered to his fathers, Sept. 26th, 1820, in the 86th year of his age. He was bur- ied in a coffin which he had had made for years, and placed under his bed, ready to receive him whenever he should be called from these earthly scenes. In the summer of 1845, his remains were removed to Frankfort. In person, Boone was five feet ten inches in hight, and of robust and powerful proportions. He was or- dinarily attired as a hunter, wearing a hunting shirt and moccasins. His biogra- pher, who saw him at his residence, on the Missouri River, but a short time before his death, says that on his introduction to Col. Boone, the impressions were those of surprise, admiration and delight. In boyhood, he had read of Daniel Boone, the pioneer of Kentucky, the celebrated hunter and Indian fighter, and imagination had portrayed a rough, fierce-looking, uncouth specimen of humanity, and of course, at this period of life, a fretful and unattractive old man. But in every re- spect the reverse appeared. His high, bold forehead Avas slightly bald, and his silver locks were combed smooth; his countenance was ruddy und fair, and exhibited the simplicity of a child. His voice was soft and melodious; a smile frequently played over his features in conversation; his clothing was the coarse, plain manufacture of the family, but everything about him denoted that kind of comfort which was congenial to his habits and feelings, and evinced a happy old age. His room was part of a range of log cabins, kept in order by his affectionate daughter and grand- daughter, and every member of the household appeared to delight in administering to the comforts of "grandfather Boone," as he was familiarly called. When age had enfeebled his once athletic frame, he made an excursion, twice a year, to some remote hunting ground, employing a companion, whom he bound by a written contract to take care of him, and should he die in the wilderness to bring his body to the cemetery which he had selected as a final resting-place. George Rogers Clark was born in Albemarle county, Vir- ginia, in 1752. He possessed a most extraordinary military genius, and became conspicu- ously prominent in the con- ^"^- quest and settlement of the whole west. "He first appeared in history as an adventurer be- yond the Alleghanies, in 1772. He had been engaged in the business of land-surveyor for some time, and that year he went down the Ohio in a canoe as far as the mouth of the Great Kanawha, in company with Rev. David Jones, then on his way to preach the gospel to the west- ern tribes. He was captain of a company in Dunmore's army, which marched against the Indians on the Ohio and its tributaries, in 1774. Ever since his trip in 1772, he ardently desired an opportunity to explore those deep wildernesses in the great valleys, and in 1775 he accompanied some armed settlers to Kentucky, as their commander. During that and the following year, he traversed a great ex- tent of country south of the Ohio, studied the character of the Indians, and made himself master of many secrets which aided in his future success. He beheld a beautiful country, inviting immigration, but the pathway to it was made dangerous y>y the enemies of the colonists, who sallied forth from the British posts at Detroit, Kaskaskia and Vincennes, with Indian allies. Convinced of the necessity of pos- sessing these posts, Clark submitted the plan of an expedition against them to the Virginia legislature, and early in the spring of 1778 he was at the falls of the Ohio (now Louisville) with four companies of soldiers. There he was joined by Simon 80 KENTUCKY. Kenton, another bold pioneer. He marched through the wilderness toward those important posts, and at the close of summer ail but Detroit were in his possession, (/lark was now promoted to colonel, and was instructed to pacify the western tribes, if possible, and bring them into friendly relations Avith the Americans. While thus engaged, he was informed of the re-capture of Vincennes. With his usual energy, and followed by less than two hundred men, he traversed the droAvned lands of Illinois, through deep morasses and snow floods, in February, 1779, and on the 19th of that month appeared before Vincennes. To the astonished garrison, it seemed as if these rough Kentuckians had dropped from the clouds, for the whole country was inundated. The fort was speedily surrendered, and commander Ham- ilton (governor of Detroit), and several others, were sent to Virginia as prisoners, (.'olonel Clavk also captured a quantity of goods, under convoy from Detroit, valued at $")0,00(); and having sufficiently garrisoned Vincennes and the other posts, he proceeded to build Fort Jefferson, on the western bank of the Mississippi, below the Ohio. When Arnold invaded Virginia, in 1781, Colonel Clark joined the forces under the Baron Steuben, and performed signal service until the traitor had de- parted. He was promoted .to the rank of brigadier the same year, and went beyond the mountains amain, hoping to organize an expedition against Detroit. His scheme failed, and for awhile Clark was in command of a post at the Falls of the Ohio. In the autumn of 1782, he penetrated the Indian country between the Ohio and the lakes, with a thousand men, and chastised the tribes severely for their marauding excursions into Kentucky, and awed them into comparatively peaceful relations. For these deeds, John Randolph afterward called Clark the 'American Hannibal, who, by the reduction of those military posts in the wilderness, obtained the lakes for the northern boundary of our Union at the peace of 1783.' Clark made Ken- tucky his future home, and during Washington s administration, when Genet, the French minister, attempted to organize a force in the west against the Spaniards, Clark accepted from him the commission of maioi'-ceneral in the armies of Franco. The project was abandoned, and the hero of the north west never appeared in public life afterward." General Clark was never married, and he was long in in- iirin health. He died in February, 1818, and was buried at Locust Grove, near Louisville. u Gen. Charles Scott was a native of Cumberland county, Virginia. He raised the first company of volunteers in that state, south of the James Kiver, that actually entered into the continental service. So much was he appreciated that in 1777 the shire town of Powhattan county was named in honor of him. Congress appointed him a brigadier in the continental army on the 1st of April, 1777. He served with distinction during the war. and at its termination he went to Kentucky. He settled in Woodford county, in that state, in 1785. He was with St. Clair at his defeat in 1791, and in 1794 he commanded a portion of Wayne's army at the battle of the Fallen Timber. He was governor of Kentucky from 1808 to 1812. He died on the 22d of October, 1820, aged seventy-four years." Scott was a man of strong natural powers, but somewhat illiterate and rough in his manners. He was eccentric, and many amusing anecdotes are related of him. When a candidate for governor, he was opposed by Col. Allen, a native of Ken- tucky, who, in an address to the people when Scott was present, made an eloquent ap- peal The friends of the latter, knowing he was no orator, felt distressed for him, but Scott, nothing daunted, mounted the stump, and addressed the company nearly as follows : "Well, boys, I am sure you must all be well pleased with the speech you have just heard. It does my heart good to think we have so smart a man raised up among us here, lie is a. native Kentuckian. I see a good many of you here that I brought out to this country when :i wilderness. At that time we hardly expected we should live to see such a smart man rniscd up among ourselves. You who wore with me in those early times know we had no time for education, no means of improving from books. We dared not then go about our most common affairs without arms in our hands, to defend ourselves against the Indians. Kut we guarded and protected the country, and now every one can go where he pleases, and you now see what smart fellows are growing up to do their country honor. J'ut I think it would be n pity to make this man governor; I think it would bo better to send him to Con- gress. I don't think it requires a very smart man to make a governor, it' lie has sense enough to gather smart men about who can help him on with the business of state. It KENTUCKY. 81 would suit a worn-out old wife of a man like myself. But as to this young man, I am very proud of him, as much so as any of his kin, if any of them have been here to-day listening to his speech." Scott then descended from the stump, and the huzzas for the old soldier made the welkin ring. Gen. Benjamin Logan, one of the most distinguished pioneers, was born in Vir ginia, of Irish parentage, about the year 1742. He was a sergeant in Boquet's ex- pedition, and was in Dunmore's campaign. In 1775, he came to Kentucky with Boone, Henderson; and others. The next year he brought out his family, and established a fort, called "Logan's Fort," which stood at St. Asaph's, about a mile west of the present town of Stanford, in Lincoln county. That period is memora- ble in the history of Kentucky, as one of peculiar peril. The woods literally swarmed with Indians. Having been reinforced by several white men, Logan de- termined to maintain himself at all hazards. " On the 20th of May, 1777, this fort was invested by a force of a hundred Indians; and on the morning of that day, as some of the females belonging to it were engaged, outside of the gate, in milking the cows, the men who acted as the guard for the occasion, were fired upon by a party of the Indians, who had concealed themselves in a thick canebrake. One man was shot dead, another mortally wounded, and a third so badly, as to be disabled from making his escape; the remainder made good their retreat into the fort, and closed the gate. Harrison, one of the wounded men, by a violent exertion, ran a few paces and fell. His struggles and exclamations attracted the notice, and awakened the sympathies, of the inmates of the station. The frantic grief of his wife gave additional interest to the scene. The enemy forbore to fire upon him, doubtless from the supposition that some of the garrison would attempt to save him, in which event they were prepared to fire upon them from the canebrake. The case was a trying one; and there was a strong conflict be- tween sympathy and duty, on the part ot the garrison. The number of effective men had been reduced from fifteen to twelve, and it was exceedingly hazardous to put the lives of any of this small number in jeopardy; yet the lamentations of his family were so distress- ing, and the scene altogether so moving, as to call forth a resolute determination to save him if possible. Logan, always alive to the impulses of humanity, and insensible to fear, volunteered his services, and appealed to some of his men to accompany him. But so ap- palling was the danger, that all, at first, refused. 'At length, John Martin consented, and rushed, with Logan, from the fort; but he had not gone far, before he shrunk from the imminence of the danger, and sprung back within the gate. Logan paused fora moment, then dashed on, alone and undaunted reached, unhurt, the spot where Harrison lay threw him on his shoulders, and, amidst a tremendous shower (/ rifle balls, made a safe and triumphant retreat into the fort. The fort was now vigorously assailed by the Indian force, and as vigorously defended by the garrison. The men were constantly at their posts, whilst the women were actively engaged in molding bullets. But the weakness of the garrison was not their only griev- ance. The scarcity of powder and ball, one of the greatest inconveniences to which the settlers were not unfrequently exposed, began now to be seriously felt. There were no in- dications that the siege would be speedily abandoned; and a protracted resistance seemed impracticable, without an additional supply of the munitions of war. The settlements on Holston could furnish a supply but how was it to be obtained? And, even if men could be found rash and desperate enough to undertake the journey, how improbable was it that the trip could be accomplished in time for the relief to be available. Logan stepped for- ward, in this extremity, determined to take the dangerous office upon himself. Encour- aging his men with the prospect of a safe and speedy return, he left the tort under cover of the night, and, attended by two faithful companions of his own selection, crept cau- tiously through the Indian lines without discovery. Shunning the ordinary route through Cumberland Gap, he moved, with incredible rapidity, over mountain and valley arrived at the settlement on the Holston procured the necessary supply of powder and lead im- mediately retraced his steps, and was again in the fort in ten days from the time of his departure. He returned alone. The necessary delay in the transportation of the stores, induced him to intrust them to the charge of his companions; and his presence at St. Asaph's was all-important to the safety of its inhabitants. His return inspired them with fresh courage; and, in a few days, the appearance of Col. Bowman's party compelled the Indians to retire." In the year 1779, Logan was first in command under Bowman, in his expedition against the Indian town of Chillicothe. It failed through the imbecility of the com- mander; but Logan gained great credit for his bravery and generalship on the occa- sion. In the summer of 1788, he conducted a successful expedition against the Indians in the Miami country. From this period until his death, Gen. Logan de- 6 82 KENTUCKY. voted himself to the cultivation of his farm. He was a member of the convention of 1792, which framed the first constitution of Kentucky. He died full of years and of honors. Gov. Isaac Shelby, the first governor of Kentucky, and the "hero of two wars." w;.3 of Welsh descent, and was born near Ha cars town. age of 21 years he emigrated t o Virginia, and engaged as a surveyor there, and in 1775, in Kentucky. Early in the Revo- lution he was, for a time, in the commissary department; but later, in 1780, he was commissioned as a colonel by Virginia, and raised 300 riflemen. He gained grfu distinction in several actions, especially in the important battle of King's Moun- tain, the turning point of the Revolution in the south. He was the most promi* ' nent officer in this celebrated victory, and originated the expedition which led to it. After this he served under Gen. Marion. In 1782, he was elected a member of the Legislature of North Carolina, but soon after returned to Kentucky, and settled down upon a farm for life. " He was elected the first governor of the new state, and after an interval of comparative repose, he was again the incumbent of that important office in 1812. Another war with Great Britain was then impending. The fire of 1776 still warmed his bosom, and he called his countrymen to arms, when the proclamation of war went forth. Henry Clay presented him with a sword, voted by the legislature of North Caro- lina for his gallantry at King's Mountain, thirty-two years before, and with that weapon he marched at the head of four thousand Kentucky volunteers, toward the Canada frontier, in 1813, though the snows of three score and three winters were upon his head. He fought gallantly upo i the Thames, in Canada; and for his valor there, congress honored him with a gold medal. President Monroe appointed him secretary of war in 1817, but he declined the honor, for he coveted the repose which old age demands. His last public act was the holding of a treaty with the Chickasaw Indians, in 1818, with General Jackson for his colleague. His sands of life were now nearly exhausted. In February, 1820, he was prostrated by par- alysis, yet he lived, somewhat disabled, until the 18th of July, 1826, when apo- plexy terminated his life. He was then almost seventy-six years of age, and died as he had lived, with the hope of a Christian." Col. Richard M. Johnson, vice president of the United States, was born at Bry- at's Station, five miles north-east of Lexington, in Oct., 1781. The outline of the history of this one of the most distinguished natives of Kentucky, is given in the monumental inscription, copied on page 908 of this work. " Henry Clay was born in Hanover county, Virginia, April 12, 1777. ^ Having received a com- mon school education, >xO { ^~* he became at an early v^5v, -^+ 1 >v / .X *& e ) a copyist in the /to^/^t^ /7. L^C^ office of the clerk of the court of chancery, at Richmond. At nine- teen he commenced the study of law, and short- ly afterward removed to Lexington, Kentucky, where he was admitted to the bar in 1799, and soon obtained extensive practice. He began his political career, by taking an active part in the election of delegates to frame a new constitution for the state of Kentucky. In 1803, he was elected to the legislature by the citizens 7 KENTUCKY. 83 of Fayette county; and in 1800, he was appointed to the United States senate for the remainder of the term of General Adair, who had resigned. In 1807, he was again elected a member of the general assembly of Kentucky, and WHS chosen speaker. In the following year occurred his duel with Humphrey Marshall. ]n 1809, he was again elected to the United States senate for the unexpired term of Mr. Thurston, resigned. In 1811, he was elected a member of the house of repre- sentatives, and was chosen speaker on the first day of his appearance in that body, and was five times re-elected to this office. During this session, his eloquence aroused the country to resist the aggressions of Great Britain, and awakened a na- tional spirit. In 1814, he was appointed one of the commissioners to negotiate a treaty of peace at Ghent. Returning from this mission, he was re-elected to con- gress, and in 1818, he spoke in favor of recognizing the independence of the South American Republics. In the same year, he put forth his strength in behalf of a national system of internal improvements. A monument of stone, inscribed with his name, was erected on the Cumberland road, to commemorate his services in behalf of that improvement In the session of 1819-20, he exerted himself for the establishment of protec- tion to American industry, and this was followed by services in adjusting the Mis- souri Compromise. After the settlement of these questions, he withdrew from congress, in order to attend to his private affairs. In 1823 he returned to congress and was re-elected speaker; and at this session he exerted himself in support of the independence of Greece. Under John Quincy Adams, he filled the office of secretary of state ; the attack upon Mr. Adams' administration, and especially upon the secretary of state, by John Randolph, led to a hostile meeting between him and Mr. Clay, which terminated without bloodshed. In 1829 he returned to Kentucky ; and in 1831 was elected to the United States senate, where he commenced his la- bors in favor of the Tariff; in the same month of his reappearance in the senate, he was unanimously nominated for president of the United States. In 1836, he was re-elected to the senate, where he remained until 1842, when he resigned, and took his. final leave, as he supposed, of that body. In 1839, he was again nomi- nated for the presidency, hut General Harrison was selected as the candidate. He also received the nomination in 1844, for president, and was defeated in this elec- tion by Mr. Polk. He remained in retirement in Kentucky until 1849, when he was re-elected to the senate of the United States. Here he devoted all his energies to the measures known as the Compromise Acts. His efforts during this session weakened his strength, and he went for his health to Havana and New Orleans, but with no per- manent advantage ; he returned to Washington, but was unable to participate in the active duties of the senate, and resigned his seat, to take effect upon the 6th of September, 1852. He died in Washington City, June 29, 1852. He was inter- ested in the success of the Colonization Society, and was for a Jong time one of its most efficient officers, and also its president." Gen, ZacJiary Taylor was a Virginian born, and a Kentuckian bred. In 1785, while he was an infant a year old, his parents moved to the vicinity of Louis- ville. At the age of 24 years, he entered the army as lieutenant of infantry, and continued in the service of his country until his death, while holding the position of President of the United States, July 9, 1850, at the age of 65 years. His bio- graphy is written in honorable lines in the history of his country, and his memory is warmly cherished in the hearts of her people. OHIO. THE territory now comprised within the limits of Ohio was, originally, part of that vast region formerly claimed by France, between the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains, known by the general name of Louisiana. It re- ceived its name from the river that forms its southern boundary. The word Ohio, in the Wyandot, signifies, "fair" or "beautiful river" which was the name given to it by the French, the first Europeans who ex- plored this part of the country. The disastrous expedition, under La Salle, who was murdered by his own men, did not abate the ardor of the French in their great plan of ob- taining possession of the vast region westward of the English colonies. Iberville, a French officei', having in ARMS or OHIO. char g e an expedition, sailed from France to the Mississippi. He en- tered the mouth of this river, and proceeded upward for several hundred miles. Permanent establishments were made at different points, and from this time, the French colonies west of the Allcghanies increased in numbers and strength. Previous to the year 1725, the colony had been divided into quarters, each having its local governor, but all subject tp the superior coun- cil general of Louisiana. One of these quarters was established north-west of the Ohio. Before the year 1750, a French post had been fortified at the mouth of the Wabash, and a communication opened with Canada, through that river and the Maumee. About the same time, and for the purpose of checking the French, the "Ohio Company" was formed, and made some attempts to establish trading houses among the Indians. The claims of the different European monarchs to large portions of Amer- ica, were founded on the first discoveries of their subjects. In 1609, the English monarch granted to the London Company, a tract of land two hun- dred miles along the coast, "up into the land throughout from sea to sea, west and north-west." In 1662, Charles II granted to certain settlers on the Cou- 85 86 OHIO. nccticut, a tract which extended its present limits north and south, due west to the Pacific Ocean. In 1749, the year after the formation of the Ohio Company, it appears that the English built a trading house upon the Great Miami. In 1752, this was destroyed, after a severe battle, and the traders were carried away to Canada. This was the first British settlement in this section of which we have any record. The Moravian missionaries, prior to the American Revolution, had a number of stations within the limits of Ohio. As early as 1762, the mis- sionaries, Heckewelder and Post, were on the Muskingum. Mary Hecke- welder, the daughter of the missionary, is said to have been the first white child born in Ohio. After Braddock's defeat, in 1755, the Indians pushed their excursions as far as the Blue Ridge. In 1764, Gen. Bradstreet, having dispersed the In- dian forces besieging Detroit, passed into the Wyandot country by way of Sandusky Bay. A treaty of peace was signed by the chiefs and head men. The Shawnees, of the Scioto River, and the Delawares, of the Muskingum, however, still continued hostile. Col. Boquet, in 1764, with a body of troops, marched from Fort Pitt into the heart of the Ohio country, on the Mus- kingum River. This expedition was conducted with great prudence and skill, and with scarcely any loss of life. A treaty of peace was effected with the Indians, who restored the prisoners they had captured from the white settlements. The next war with the Indians was Lord Dunmore's, in 1774. In the fall of the year, the Indians were defeated at Point Pleasant, on the Virginia side of the Ohio. Shortly after, peace was made with the Indians at Camp Charlotte, a few miles north of the site of the city of Chillicothe. During the Revolutionary war, most of the western Indians were more or less united against the Americans. In the summer of 1780, Gen. Clark led a body of Kentuckians against the Shawnees. Old Chillicothe, on the Lit- tle Miami, was burnt on their approach, but at Piqua, on Mad River, six miles below the site of Springfield, they gave battle to the whites and were defeated. Their towns, Upper and Lower Piqua, were destroyed. In March, 1782, a party of Americans, in cold blood, murdered 94 of the defenseless Mo- ravian Indians, within the limits of Tuscarawas county. In June following, Col. Crawford, at the head of about 500 men, was defeated by the Indians, three miles north of the site of Upper Sandusky, in Wyandot county. Col. . Crawford was taken prisoner in the retreat, and burnt at the stake with hor- rible tortures. After the close of the Revolutionary war, the states which owned western unappropriated lands, with a single exception, ceded their lands to the United States. Virginia, in 1784. ceded all her claim to lands north-west of the Ohio. In 1786, Connecticut also ceded her claim of soil and jurisdiction to all the territory within her chartered limits west of Pennsylvania. She also, in May, 1801, ceded her jurisdictional claims to all that territory called the ''Western Reserve of Connecticut." New York and Massachusetts also ceded all their claims. Numerous tribes of Indians, by virtue of their prior possession, asserted their respective claims, which, also, had to be extin- guished, for which purpose treaties with the several tribes were made at vaii- oud times. Tlie Indian title to a large part of the territory within the limits of Ohio ha\ii)g become extinguished, legislative action on the 'part of congress be- came necessary before commencing settlements. In 1785, they passed an ordinance for determining the mode of disposing of these lands. Under that OHIO. 87 ordinance, the first seven ranges, bounded on the east by Pennsylvania and on the south by the Ohio, were surveyed. Sales of parts of these were made in New York in 1787, and sales of other parts of the same range were made at Pittsburgh and Philadelphia. No further sales were made in, that dis- trict until the land office was opened in Steubenville, July 1, 1801. In October, 1787, the U. S. board of treasury sold to Manassah Cutler and Winthrop Sargeant, the agents of the New England Ohio Company, a tract of land, bounded by the Ohio, from the mouth of the Scioto to the intersec- tion of the western boundary of the seventh range of townships then sur- veying: thence by said boundary to the northern boundary of the tenth township from the Ohio, etc. These bounds were altered in 1792. The set- tlement of this purchase commenced at Marietta, at the mouth of the Mus- kingum, in the spring of 1788, and was the first settlement formed in Ohio. The same year in which Marietta was first settled, congress appointed Gen. Arthur St. Clair governor. The territorial government was organized, laws were made or adopted by the governor and Judges Parsons and Varnum. The county of Washington, embracing about half the territory within the present limits of Ohio, was established by the proclamation of the governor. A. short time after the settlement had commenced, an association was formed under the name of the " Scioto Land Company." A contract was made for the purchase of part of the lands of the Ohio Company. Plans and descrip- tions of these lands being sent to France, they were sold to companies and individuals. On Feb. 19, 1791, two hundred and eighteen of these pur- chasers left France, and arrived at Alexandria, Va., from whence they went to Marietta, where about fifty of them landed: the remainder of them pro- ceeded to Gallipolis, which was laid out about that time. Their titles to the lands proving defective, congress, in 1798, granted them a tract on the Ohio, above the mouth of the Scioto River, called the "French Grant." In January, 1789, a treaty was made at Fort Harmar, between Gov. St. Clair and the Wyandots, Chippewas, Pottawatomies, and Sacs, in which for- mer treaties were renewed. It did not, however, produce the favorable re- sults anticipated. The Indians, the same year, assumed a hostile appear- ance, hovered around the infant settlements at the mouth of the Muskingum, and between the Miamis. Nine persons were killed, the new settlers became alarmed, and block houses were erected. Negotiations with the Indians proving unavailing. Gen. Harmar was di- rected to attack their towns. He marched from Cincinnati, in Sept., 1790, with 1,300 men, and went into the Indian country near the site of Fort Wayne, in north-western Indiana, and, after some loss, succeeded in burning towns, and destroying standing corn, but the object of the expedition in intimidating the Indians was entirely unsuccessful. As the Indians continued hostile, a new army was assembled at Cincinnati, consisting of about 3,000 men, under the command of Gov. St. Clair, who commenced his march toward the Indian towns on the Maumee. On the 4th of Nov., 1791, when near the present northern line of Darke county, the American army was surprised about half an hour before sunrise, as there is good reason to believe, by the whole disposable force of the north-west tribes. The Americans were totally defeated : upward of six hundred were killed, among whom was Gen. Butler. In the spring of 1794, an American army assembled at Greenville, in Darke county, under the command of Gen. Anthony Wayno, consisting of about 2,000 regular troops, and 1,500 mounted volunteers from Kentucky. 88 OHI - The Indians had collected their -whole force, amounting to about 2.000 war- riors, near a British fort at the foot of the rapids of Maumee. On the 20th of Aug.,- 1794, Gen. Wayne encountered the enemy in a short and deadly conflict, when the Indians fled in the greatest confusion. After destroying all the houses and cornfields in the vicinity, the victorious army returned to the mouth of ^the Auglaize, where Wayne erected Fort Defiance. The In- dians, being convinced of their inability to resist the American arms, sued for peace. A grand council of eleven of the most powerful tribes assembled at Greenville, when they agreed to acknowledge the United States their sole protector, and never to sell their lands to any other power. At this period there was no fixed seat of government. The laws were passed whenever they seemed to be needed, at any place where the territorial legislators happened to assemble. The population of the territory continued to increase and extend. From Marietta, settlers spread into the adjoining country. The Virginia military reservation drew a considerable number of Revolutionary veterans and others from that state. The region between the Miamis, from the Ohio far upward toward the sources of Mad River, became chequered with farms. The neighborhood of Detroit became populous, and Connecticut, by grants of land within the tract reserved in her deed of ces- sion, induced many of her citizens to seek a home on the borders of Lake Erie. The territorial legislature first met in 1799. An act was passed confirming the laws enacted by the judges and governor, the validity of which had been doubted. This act, as well as every other which originated in the council, was prepared and brought forward by Jacob Bui-net, afterward a distinguished judge and senator, to whose labors, at this session, the territory was indebted for some of its most beneficial laws. William H. Harrison, then secretary of the territory, was elected delegate to congress. In 1802, congress having ap- proved the measure, a convention assembled in Chillicothe and formed a state constitution, which became the fundamental law of the state by the act of the convention alone, and by this act Ohio became one of the states of the federal union. The first general assembly under the state constitution met at Chillicothe, March 1, 1803. Eight new counties were made at this session, viz: Gallia, Scioto, Franklin, Columbiana, Butler, Warren, Greene and Montgomery. In 1805, the United States, by a treaty with the Indians, acquired for thn use of the grantees of Connecticut all that part of the Western Reserve which lies west of the Cuyahoga. By subsequent treaties, all the country watered by the Maumee and Sandusky was acquired, and the Indian title to lands in Ohio is now extinct. About the year 1810, the Indians, who, since the treaty at Greenville, had been at peace, began to commit depredations upon the western settlers. The celebrated Tecumseh was active in his efforts to unite the native tribes against the Americans, and to arrest the further extension of the settlements. In 1811, Gen. Harrison, then governor of Indiana territory, marched against the Indians on the Wabash. 'The battle of Tippecanoe ensued, in which the Indians were totally defeated. In the war of 1812, with Great Britain, Ohio bore her full share in the contest. Her sons volunteered with alacrity their services in the field, and hardly a battle was fought in the north-west in which spme of these citizen soldiers did not seal their devotion to their coun- try in their blood. In 1816, the seat of government was removed to Columbus. In 1817, the OHIO. 89 first resolution relating to a canal connecting the Ohio Elver with Lake Erie was introduced into the legislature. In 1825, an act was passed "to provide for the internal improvement of the state by navigable canals." The con- struction of these and other works of improvement has been of immense ad- vantage in developing the resources of Ohio, which in little more than half a century has changed from a wilderness to one of the most powerful states of the union. Ohio is bounded N. by Michigan and Lake Erie, E. by Pennsylvania and Virginia, W. by Indiana, and southerly by Kentucky and Virginia, being separated from these last named two states by the Ohio River, which washes the borders of the state, through its numerous meanderings, for a distance of more than 430 miles. It is about 220 miles long from E. to W., and 200 from N. to S., situated between 38 32' and 42 N. Lat., and between 80 35' and 84 40' W. Long. The surface of the state covers an area of about 39,964 square miles, or 25,576, 960 acres, of which about one half are im- proved. The land in the interior of the state and bordering on Lake Erie is gen- erally level, and in some places marshy. From one quarter to one third of the territory of the state, comprising the eastern and southern parts bordering on the Ohio River, is hilly and broken. On the margin of the Ohio, and several of its tributaries, are alluvial lands of great fertility. The valleys of the Scioto and the Great and Little Miami are the most extensive sections of level, rich and fertile lands in the state. In the north-west section of the state is an extensive tract of great fertility, called the "Black Swamp," much of which, since the year 1855, has been opened into farms with un- precedented rapidity. Though Ohio has no elevations which may be termed mountains, the center of the state is about 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. The summit of the abrupt hills bordering on the Ohio, several hundred feet high, are nearly on a level with the surrounding country through which the rivers have excavated their channels in the lapse of ages. Ohio possesses in abundance the important minerals of coal and iron. The bituminous coal region commences at the Ohio River, and extends in a belt, between the Scioto and Muskingum Rivers, nearly to Lake Erie. Great quan- tities of iron ore are found in the same section in a bed about 100 miles long by 12 wide, said to be superior to any other in the United States for the finer castings. Salt springs are frequent and very valuable. Marble and free- stone, well adapted for building purposes, abound. Almost all parts are suit- able for agricultural purposes, and the state ranks among the first in the pro- ducts of the soil. Indian corn is the staple production. Large crops of wheat, great quantities of pork, butter, cheese and wool are annually pro- duced. The grain crops of Ohio are very large ; the estimate for 1860, a favorable year, was: Indian corn, 80 millions of bushels; wheat, 30 millions; and oats, 20 millions. It is estimated that the whole state has the natural capacity to feed 18 millions of people. Population in 1800 was 45,365; in 1820, 581,434; in 1850, 1,980,408, and in 1860, 2,377,917. MARIETTA, the capital of Washington county, and oldest town in the state, is beautifully situated on the left or east bank of the Muskingum, at its con- fluence with the Ohio, 104 miles south-east of Columbus, 62 below Wheeling, Va., and 300, by the river, above Cincinnati. It is built principally on level ground, surrounded by beautiful scenery. Many of the houses are con- structed with great neatness, having fine gardens, and ornamental trees and 90 OHIO. shrubbery, which mark the New England origin of its population. The founders of the town comprised an unusual number of persons of refinement and taste. Very many of them had served as officers in the armies of the revolution, and becoming ruined in their fortunes in the service of their coun- try, were thus prompted to seek a new home in the wilds of the west. Ma- rietta College, in this place, was chartered in 1835, and is one of the most re- spectable institutions of the kind in the state. Population about 5,000. In the autumn of 1785, a detachment of U. S. troops, under the command of Maj. Doughty, commenced the erection of Fort Harmar, on the west bank of the Musk- ingum. It was named in honor of Col. Harmar, to whose regiment Major Doughty was attached. In the autumn of 1787, the di- rectors of the Ohio Company organized in New England, preparatory to a settlement. In the course of the winter following, a party of about 40 men, under the Superin- tcndenCC of Col Rufus Put- nam, proceeded OVCr tllC Ai- Ufrlinnine V>v flip nld Trillion egIWIlIW uy U1C OKI path which had been opened into Braddock's road, and boats being constructed, they proceeded' down the river, and on the 7th of April, 1788, landed at the mouth of the Muskingum, and laid the foundation of the state of Ohio. "As St. Clair, who had been appointed governor the preceding October, had not yet arrived, it became necessary to erect a temporary government for their internal security, for which purpose a set of laws was passed and published, by being nailed to a tree in the village, and Return Jonathan Meigs'was appointed to administer them. It is a strong evidence of the good habits of the people of the colony, that during three months but one difference occurred, and that was compromised. In- deed, a better set of men altogether could scarce have been selected for the pur- pose than Putnam's little band. Washington might well say, 'no colony in America was ever settled under such favorable- auspices as that which was first commenced at the Muskingum. Information, property and strength will be its characteristics. I know many of the settlers personally, and there never were men better calculated to promote the welfare of such a community.' On the 2d of July, a meeting of the directors and agents was held on the bunks of the Muskingum, for the purpose of naming the new-born city and its public squares. As the settlement had been merely 'The Muskingum,' the name Marietta was now formally given to it, in honor of Marie Antoinette. On the 4th of -July, an oration was delivered by James M. Varnum, who, with S. II. Parsons and John Armstrong, had been appointed to the judicial bench of the territory, on the 16th of October, 1787. Five days later, the governor arrived, and the colony began to assume form. The ordinance of 1787 provided two dis- trict grades of government for the north-west territory, under the first of which the whole power was in the hands of the governor and three judges, and this form was at once organized upon the governor's arrival. The first law, which was 'for rcgu- SOUTHERN VIEW OF THE ANCIENT MOUND, MABIETTA. The engraving shows the appearance of the Mound as seen from the dwelling of Mr. Rosseter, in Marietta, opposite the grave-yard. Its base ia a regular circle, 115 feet in diameter ; its perpendicular altitude is 30 feet. It is surrounded by a ditch 4 feet deep and 15 wide, defended by a parapet 4 feet high, through which ia a gate-way. OHIO. 91 ating and establishing the militia,' was published upon the 25th of July, and the iext day appeared the governor's proclamation, erecting all the country that had been ceded by the Indians east of the Scioto River into the county of Wash- ington. From that time forward, notwithstanding the doubt yet existing as to the In- dians, all at Marietta went on prosperously and pleasantly. On the 2d of Septem- ber, the first court was held, with becoming ceremonies, which was the first civil court ever convened in the territory north-west of the Ohio. 'The procession was formed at the Point (where most of the settlers resided), in the following order: 1st, the high sheriff, with his drawn sword; 2d. the citizens; 3d, the officers of the garrison at Fort Harmar; 4th, the members of the bar; 5th, the supreme judges; 6th, the governor and clergyman; 7th, the newly appointed judges of the court of common pleas, generaJs Hufus Putnam and Benj. Tupper. They marched up a path that had been cut and cleared through the forest to Campus Martius Hill (stockade), where the whole counter-marched, and the judges (Putnam and Tupper) took their seats. The clergyman, Rev. Dr. Cutler, then in- voked the divine blessing. The sheriff, Col. Ebenezer Sproat (one of nature's no- bles), proclaimed with his solemn 'Oh yes' that a court is opened for the adminis- tration of even-handed justice to the poor and* the rich, to the guilty and the inno- cent, without respect of persons; none to be punished without a trial by their peers, and then in pursuance of the laws and evidence in the case.' Although this scene was exhibited thus early in the settlement of the state, few ever equaled it in the dignity and exalted character of its principal participators. Many of them belong to the history of our country, in the darkest as well as mo^t splendid pe- riods of the revolutionary war. To witness this spectacle, a large body of Indians was collected from the most powerful tribes then occupying the almost entire west. They had assembled for the purpose of making a treaty. Whether any of them entered the hall of justice, or what were their impressions, we are not told.' " Campus Martins, at Marietta, in 1791. Soon after landing, Campus Martius, a stockaded fort, was begun on the verge of that beautiful plain, overlooking the Muskingum, on which arc seated those celebrated remains of antiquity, but it was not completed with palisades and bastions until the winter of 1790-1. It was a square of 180 feet on a side. At each corner was a strong block-house, surmounted by a tower and sentry-box : These houses were 20 feet square below, and 24 feet above, and projected 6 feet beyond the curtains, or main walls of the fort. The intermediate curtains were built up with dwelling houses, made of wood, whipsawed into timbers four inches thick, and of the requisite width and length. These were laid up similar to the 92 OHI - structure of log houses, with the ends nicely dove-tailed or fitted together so as to make a neat finish. The whole were two stories high, and covered with good shin- gle roofs. Convenient chimneys were erected of bricks, for cooking and warming the rooms. A number of the dwelling houses were built and owned by private in- dividuals, who had families. In the west and south fronts were strong gateways; and over that in the center of the front looking to the Muskingum River, was a belfry. The chamber underneath was occupied by the Hon. Winthrop Sargeant, as an office, he being secretary to the governor of the N. W. Territory, (Jen. St. Clair, and performing the duties of governor in his absence. . The dwelling houses occupied a space from 15 to 30 feet each, and were sufficient for the accommoda- tion of forty or fifty families, and did actually contain from 200 to 300 persons, men, women and children, during the Indian war. Before the Indians commenced hostilities, the block-houses were occupied as fol- lows : the south-west one by the family of Gov. St. Clair ; the north-west one for public worship and holding of courts. The south-east block-house was occupied by private families ; and the north-east as an office for the accommodation of the directors of the company. The area within the walls was 144 feet square, and af- forded a fine parade ground. In the center was a well, 80 feet in depth, for the supply of water to the inhabitants in case of a siege. A large sun-dial stood for many years in the square, placed on a handsome post, and gave note of the march of time. It is still preserved as a relic of the old garrison. After the war com- menced, a regular military corps was organized, and a guard constantly kept night and day. The whole establishment formed a very strong work, and reflected great credit on the head that planned it Ship building, at Marietta, was carried on quite extensively at an early day. From the year 1800 to 1807, the business was very thriving. Com. Abm. Whipple, a veteran of the Revolution, conducted the one first built, the St. Clair, to the ocean. At that time Marietta was made "a port of clearance," from which vessels could receive regular papers for a foreign country. "This circumstance was the cause of a curious incident, which took place in the year 1806 or 1807. A ship, built at Marietta, cleared from that port with a cargo of pork, flour, etc., for New Orleans. From thence she sailed to England with a load of cotton, and being chartered to take a cargo to St. Petersburg, the Americans being at that time carriers for half the world, reached that port in safety. Her papers being examined by a naval officer, and dating from the port of Marietta, Ohio, she was seized, upon the plea of their being a forgery, as no such port was known in the civilized world. With considerable difficulty the captain procured a map of the United States, and point- ing with his finger to the mouth of the Mississippi, traced the course of that stream to the mouth of the Ohio; from thence he led the astonished and admiring naval officer along the devious track of the latter river to the port of Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum, from whence he hud taken his departure. This explan- ation was entirely satisfactory, and the American was dismissed with every token of regard and respect." One of the early settlers in this region, gave Mr. Howe, for his work on Ohio, the annexed amusing sketch, illustrating pioneer life: People who have spent their lives in an old settled country, can form but a faint idea of the privations and hardships endured by the pioneers of our now flourish- ing and prosperous state. When I look on Ohio as it is, and think what it was in 1802, when 1 first settled here, I am struck with astonishment, and can hardly credit my own senses. When I emigrated, I was a young man, without any prop- erty, trade, or profession, entirely dependent on my own industry for a living. I purchased 60 acres of new land on credit, 2 1-2 miles from any house or road, and built a camp of poles, 7 by 4 feet, and 5 feet high, with three sides and a fire in front. I furnished myself with a loaf of bread, a piece of pickled pork, some po- tatoes, borrowed a frying pan, and commenced housekeeping. 1 was not hindered from my work by company; for the first week I did not see a living soul, but, to make amends for the want of it, 1 had every night a most glorious concert of OHIO. 93 wolves and owls. 1 soon (like Adam) saw the necessity of a help-mate, and per- suaded a voting woman to tie her destiny to mine. 1 built a log-house 20 feet square quite aristocratic in those days and moved into it. I was fortunate enough to possess a jack-knife; with that I made a wooden knife and two wooden forks" which answered admirably for us to eat with. A bedstead was wanted: took two round poles for the posts, inserted a pole in them for a side rail, two other poles were inserted for end pieces, the ends of which were put in the logs of the house some puncheons were then split and laid from the side rail to the crevice between the loss of the house, which formed a substantial bed-cord, on which we laid our straw bed, the only one we had on which we slept as soundly and woke as happy as Albert and Victoria. A Pioneer Dwelling in the Woods. Tn process of time, a yard and a half of calico was wanted ; I started on foot through the woods ten miles, to Marietta, to procure it; but alas! when 1 arrived there I found that, in the absence of both money and credit, the calico was not to be obtained. The dilemma was a serious one, and how to escape I could not de- vise; but I had no sooner informed my wife of my failure, than she suggested that I had a pair of thin pantaloons which I could very well spare, that would make quite a decent frock : the pants were cut up, the frock made, and in due time, the child was dressed. The long winter evenings were rather tedious, and in order to make them pass more smoothly, by great exertion, I purchased a share in the Belpre library, 6 miles distant. From this I promised myself much entertainment, but another obstacle presented itself I had no candles ; however, the Avoods afforded plenty of pine knots with these 1 made torches, by which I could read, though I nearly spoiled my eyes. Many a night have I passed in this manner, till 12 or 1 o'clock reading to my wife, while she was hatcheling, carding or spinning. Time rolled on, the payments for my land became due, and money, at that time, in Ohio, was a cash article : however, 1 did not despair. I bought a few steers; some I bartered for and others I got on credit my credit having somewhat improved since the calico expedition slung a knapsack on my back, and started alone with my cattle for Rom- ney, on the Potomac, where I sold them, then traveled on to Litchfield, Connecti- cut, paid for my land, and had just $1 left to bear my expenses home, 600 miles distant. Before I returned, I worked an^procured 50 cents in cash ; with this and my dollar I commenced my journey homeward. I laid out my dollar for cheap hair combs, and these, with a little Yankee pleasantry, kept me very comfortably at the private houses where J stopped till I got to Owego, on the feusquehanna, where I had a power of attorney to collect some money for a neighbor in Ohio. 94 OHIO. At Marietta arc some ancient works, which, although not more remarka- ble than others in the state, and not so extensive as some, are more generally known, from having been so frequently described by travelers. They are on an elevated plain, above the present bank of the Muskingum, on the east side, and about half a mile from its junction with the Ohio. They consist of walls and mounds of earth in direct lines, and in square and circular forms. The largest square fort, or town, contained about forty acres, en- compassed by a wall of earth, from six to ten feet high. On each side were three openings, probably gateways. On the side next the Muskingum there was a covert way, formed of two parallel walls of earth, upward of 200 feet apart, extending probably, at the time of their construction, to the river. There was also a smaller fort, consisting of 20 acres, having walls, gateways and mounds. The mound in the present graveyard is situated on the south- east of the smaller fort. The following inscriptions are copied from monu- ments in this yard: Sacred to the memory of Commodore ABRAHAM WHIPPLR, whose naval skill and courage will ever remain the pride and boast of his country. In the REVOLUTION, he wns the first on the seas to hurl defiance at proud Britain, gallantly leading the way to wrest from the mistress of the sens her scepter, and there wave the star spangled banner. lie also con- ducted to the sea the first square rigged vessel ever built on the Ohio, opening to commerce resources beyond calculation. He was born Sept. 26th, A.D. 1733, and died Muy 26th, 1819, aged 85 years. Gen. RCFUS PUTNAM, died May 4, 1824, in the 87th year of his age. Here lies the body of his Excellency, RETURN JONATHAN Mures, who wns born at Mld- dletown, Connecticut, Nov. , 1766, and died at Marietta, March 29, 1825. For many years his time and talents were devoted to the service of his country. He successively filled the place of Judge of the Territory North-west of the Ohio, Scnntor of Congress of the United States, Governor of the State, and Post Master General of the United States. To the honoured and revered memory of an ardent Patriot, a practical Statesman, an enlight- ened Scholar, a dutiful Son, an indulgent Father, an affectionate Husband, this monument is erected by his mourning widow, Sophia Meigs. In memory of Doctor SAMUEL HILDRKTH, a native of Massachusetts, who died at Belpre, August 6th, 'A.D. 1823, aged 73 years. Death is the good man's friend the messenger who calls him to his Father's house. MARTHA BRAINERD, daughter of Dr. Joseph Spencer, Jr., and grand-daughter of Maj. Gen. Joseph Spencer, officers in the array of the Revolution in 1775, the latter a, member of the Continental Congress of 1778, born at Lebanon, Connecticut, Jan. 18, 1782, married in Virginia to Stephen Radcliff Wilson, May 20th, 1798, died at Marietta, Jan. 10th, 1852. GALLIPOLJS, the county seat of Gallia county, one of the oldest towns in Ohio, is pleasantly situated on the Ohio River. 102 miles south-easterly from Columbus, and contains about 2,800 inhabitants. It was settled in 1791, by a French colony, sent out under the auspices of the "Scioto Company," which appears to have been in some way connected with the Ohio Company. The agents of the Scioto Company, in Paris, were Joel Barlow, of the United States; Playfair, an Englishman; and a Frenchman, named DC Sais- son. A handsome, but deceptive French map was engraved, and glowing representations of the country were given, and, being about the beginning of the French Revolution, the "flattering delusion" took strong hold. The terms to induce emigration were as fdPows: The company proposed to take the emigrant to their lands and pay the cost, and the latter bound himself to work three years for the company, for which he was to receive fifty acrca, OHIO. 95 a house, and cow. About five hundred Frenchmen left their native country, debarked mostly at Alexandria, Va., and made their way to the promised land. The location of Gallipolis was effected just before the arrival of the French. Col. Rufus Putnam sent Maj. Burnham, with about 40 men, for GatNpolig, i. e. Town of the French, in 1791. that purpose, who m:ido the clearing, and erected block-houses and cabins on the present public square. Eighty log cabins were constructed, 20 in each row. At each of the corners were block -houses, two stories high. Above the cabins, on the square, were two other parallel rows of cabins, which, with a high stockade fence, formed a sufficient fortification in times of danger. These upper cabins were a story and a half high, built of hewed logs, and finished in better style than those below, being intended for the richer class. The following is from a communication to the American Pioneer, from one of the colonists, Waldeurard Meulette: At an early meeting of the colonists, the town was named Gallipolis (town of tlie French). I did not arrive till nearly all the colonists were there. 1 descended the river in 1791, in flat boats, loaded with troops, commanded by Gen. St. Clair, destined for an expedition against the Indians. Some of my countrymen joined that expedition ; among others was Count Malartie, a captain in the French guard of Louis XVI. General St. Clair made him one of his aids-de-camp in the battle, in which he was severely wounded. He went back to Philadelphia, from whence he returned to France. The Indians were encouraged to greater depredations and murders, by their success in this expedition, but most especially against the Amer- ican settlements. From their intercourse with the French in Canada, or some other cause, they seemed less disposed to trouble us. Immediately after St. Clair' a defeat, Col. Sproat, commandant at Marietta, appointed four spies for Gallipolis two Americans and two French, of which I was one, and it was not until after the treaty at Greenville, in 1795, that we were released. Notwithstanding the great difficulties, the difference of tempers, education, and professions, the inhabitants lived in harmony, and having little or nothing to do, made themselves agreeable and useful to each other. The Americans and hunters, employed by the company, performed the first labors of clearing the township, which was divided into lots. Although the French \vere willing to work, yet the clearing of an American 96 OHIO. wilderness and its heavy timber, \vas far more than they could perform. To mi- grate from the eastern states to the "far west," is painful enough now-a-days, but how much more so it must be for a citizen of a large European town ! Even a farmer of the old countries would find it very hard, if not impossible to clear land in the wilderness. Those hunters were paid by the colonists to prepare their gar- den ground, which was to receive the seeds brought from France; few of the col- onists knew how to make a garden, but they were guided by a few books on that subject, which they had brought likewise from France. The colony then began to improve in its appearance and comfort. The fresh provisions were supplied by the company's hunters, the others came from their magazines. Breckenridge, in his Recollections, gives some reminiscences of Gallipolis, related in a style of charming simplicity and humor. He was then a boy of nine years of age : Behold me once more in port, and domiciled at the house, or inn, of Monsieur, or rather, Dr. Saugrain, a cheerful, sprightly little Frenchman, four feet six, English measure, and a chemist, natural philosopher and physician, both in the English and French signification of the word. . . . This singular village was settled by people from Paris and Lyons, chiefly artisans and artists, peculiarly unfitted to sit down in the wilderness and clear away forests. I have seen half a dozen at work in taking down a tree, some pulling ropes fastened to the branches, while others wero cutting around it like beavers. Sometimes serious accidents occurred in conse- quence of their awkwardness. Their former employment had been only calculated to administer to the luxury of highly polished and wealthy societies. There were carvers and gilders to the king, coach makers, freizurs and peruke makers, and a variety of others who might have found some employment in our larger towns, but who were entirely out of their place in the wilds of Ohio. Their means by this time had been exhausted, and they were beginning to suffer from the want of the comforts and even the necessaries of life. The country back from the river was still a wilderness, and the Gallipotians did not pretend to cultivate anything more than small garden spots, depending for their supply of provisions on the boats which now began to descend the river; but they had to pay in cash, and that was become scarce. They still assembled at the ballroom twice a week; it was evi- dent, however, that they felt disappointment, and were no longer happy. The pre- dilections of the best among them, being on the side of the Bourbons, the horrors of the French revolution, even in their remote situation, mingled with their private misfortunes, which had at this time nearly reached their acme, in consequence of the discovery that they had no title to their lands, having been cruelly deceived by those from whom they had purchased. It is well known that congress generously made them a grant of twenty thousand acres, from which, however, but few of them ever derived any advantage. As the Ohio was now more frequented, the house was occasionally resorted to, and especially by persons looking out for land to purchase. The doctor had a small apartment which contained his chemical apparatus, and I used to sit by him as often as I could watching the curious operation of his blow-pipe and crucible. I loved the cheerfal little man, and he became very fond of me in return. Many of my countrymen used to come and stare at his doings, which they were half inclined to think had a too near resemblance to the black art The doctor was a great favorite with the Americans, as well for his vivacity and sweetness of temper, which nothing could sour, as on account of a circumstance which gave him high claim to the esteem of the backwoodsmen. He had shown himself, notwithstanding his small stature and great good nature, a very hero in combat with the Indians. He had descended the Ohio in company with two French philosophers, who were believers in the primitive innocence and goodness of the children of the forest. They could not be persuaded that any danger was to be apprehended from the Indians; as they had no intentions to injure that people, they supposed no harm could be meditated on their part. Dr. Saugrain was not altogether so well convinced of their good intentions, and accordingly kept his pis- tols loaded. Near the mouth of the Sandy, a canoe with a party of warriors ap- proached the boat; the philosophers invited them on board by signs, when they OHIO. 97 ;;\]iic rather too willingly. The first tiling they did on coming on board of the boat was to salute the two philosophers with the tomahawk ; and they would have treated the doctor in the same way but tha,t he used his pistols with good effect killed two of the savages, and then leaped into the water, diving like a dipper at the flash ot the guns of the others, and succeeded in swimming to the shore with several severe wounds whose scar? were conspicuous. The doctor was married to an amiable young woman, but not possessing as much vivacity as himself. As Madam San grain had no maid to assist her, her brother, a boy of uiy age, and myself were her principal helps in the kitchen. We brought water and wood, and washed the dishes. 1 used to go in the morning about twxi two miles for a little milk, sometimes on the frozen ground, barefooted. I tried a pair of savots, or wooden shoes, but was unable to make any use of them, although they had been made by the carver to the king. Little perquisites, too, sometimes fell to oar share -from blacking boots and shoes; my companion generally saved his, while mine would have burned a hole in my pocket if it had i-emained there. In the spring and summer, a good deal of my time was passed in the garden, weed- ing the beds. While thus engaged, 1 formed an acquaintance with a young lady, of eighteen or twenty, on the other side of the palings, who was often similarly oc- cupied. Our friendship, which was purely Platonic, commenced Avitli the story of IJluo Beard, recounted by her, and with the novelty and pathos of which 1 was aiuch interested. Soon after Breckenridge left the place, but in 1807 again saw Gallipolis: As we passed Point Pleasant and the Island below it, Gallipolis, which I looked for with anxious feelings, hove in sight. I thought of the French inhabitants I thought of my friend Saugniiu, and I recalled, in the liveliest color?, the incidents of that portion of my life which UM- passed here. A year is a long time at that period every day is crowded with new and great and striking events. When the boat landed, I ran up the bank and looked around; but aias! how changed! The Americans had taken the town in hand, and no t.-;;ce of antiquity, that is, of twelve years ago, remained. I hastened to the spot where I expected to find the abode, the little log house, tavern and laboratory of the doc- tor, but they had vanished like the palace ot Aladdin. After some inquiry, I found a little Frenchman, who, like the old woman of Goldsmith's village, was "the sad historian of the deserted plain" that is, deserted by one race to be peopled by another. He led me to where a few logs might be seen, as the only remains of the once happy tenement which had sheltered me but all around it was a common; the town had taken a different direction. My heart sickened; the picture which my imagination had drawn the scenes which my memory loved to cherish, were blotted out and obliterated. A volume of reminiscences' seemed to be annihilated in an instant! I took a hasty glance at the new town as I re- turned to the boat. I saw brick houses, painted frames, fanciful inclosures, ornamental trees. Even the pond, which had carried off a tl.ird of the French population by its ni'ila- riti, had disappeared, and a pretty green had usurped its place,, with a neat brick court house in the midst of it. This was too much; I hastened my pace, and with sorrow once more pushed into the stream. CINCINNATI, the metropolis of Ohio, and capital of Hamilton county, is on the right or northern bank of the Ohio, 116 miles south-west of Oulumbus, 455, by the course of the river, from Pittsburg, Pa.; 1,447 above New Or- leans, by the Mississippi and Ohio rivers; 518 west from Baltimore, G17 from Philadelphia, 704 from New York, 655 east from St. Louis, Mo., 492 from Washington City. Lut. 39 6' 30"; Long. 84 27' W. from Greenwich, or 7 25' W. from Washington. It is the largest inland city in the United States, and is frequently called the "Queen City of the West." Soon after the first settlement of Ohio was commenced at Marietta, several parties were formed to occupy and improve separate portions of Judge Sym rues' purchase between the Miami Rivers. The first, led by Maj. Stites, laid out the town of Columbia, at the mouth of the Little Miami. The second party, about twelve or fifteen in number, under Matthias Denman and Robert Patterson, after much difficulty and danger, caused by floating ice in the Ohio, landed on its north bank, opposite the mouth of the Licking, Dec. 24, 7 98 OHIO. 1788. Here they proceeded to lay out a town, which they called Losanti- villc, which was afterward changed to Cincinnati. The original price paid by Mr. Denman for the land on which the city now stands, was, in value, about fifteen pence per acre. A third party of adventurers, under the imme- diate care of Judge Symines, located themselves at North Bend. For some time it was a matter of doubt which of the rivals, Columbia, Cin- cinnati or North Bend would eventually become the seat of business. The garrison for the defense of the settlements having been established at Cincin- nati, made it the head-quarters and depot of the army. In addition to this, Cincinnati from the Kentucky side of the Ohio. Parts of Covington and Newport, Ky., appear on the right; o, landing, Cincinnati ; 6, the suburb of Fulton, up the Ohio, on the left of which is East Walnut Hills, and through which passes the Little Miami Railroad, leading to the eastern cities; c, Mount Adams, on which is the Cincinnati Observatory; d, posi- tion of Walnut Hills, three, miles from the city ; e, Mount Auburn, 480 feet above the bed of the Ohio; /, Vine-street Hill,* four miles beyond which are the elegant country seats at Clifton ; g, valley of Mill-creek, on which is Spring Grove Cemetery, and the railroad track to Dayton. as soon as the county courts of the territory were organized, it was created the seat of justice for Hamilton county. These advantages turned the scale in favor of Cincinnati. At first, North Bend had a decided advantage over it, as the troops de- tailed by Gen. Harmar for the protection of the Miami settlers were landed there, through the influence of Judge Symmes. It appears, however, that the detachment soon afterward took its departure for Cincinnati. The tradition is, that Ensign Luce, the commander of the party, while looking out very leisurely for a suitable site on which to erect a block-house, formed an ac- quaintance with a beautiful, black-eyed female, to whom he became much attached. She was the wife of one of the settlers at thte Bend. Her husband saw the danger to which he was exposed if he remained where he was. He therefore resolved at once to remove to Cincinnati. The ensign soon fol- lowed, and, as it appears, being authorized to make a selection for a military work, he chose Cincinnati as the site, and notwithstanding the remonstrances of Judge Symmes, he removed the troops and commenced the erection of a block-house. Soon after Maj. Doughty arrived at Cincinnati with troops from Fort Harmar, and commenced the erection of Fort Washington. The * The bulk of the German population is in that portion of the city between tho base of Mt. Auburn and Vine-street Hill. The line of the canal to Toledo cuts off the German set- tlement from the south part of the city. "Over tho Rhine," t. e., over tho canal, is, in common parlance, tho appellation given to that quarter. The total German population ia estimated at 40,000. OHIO. 99 following details upon the history of the place is extracted from Howe's Hist. Collections of Ohio. Soon as the settlers of Cincinnati landed, they commenced erecting three or four cabins, the first of which was built on Front, east of and near Main- street. The lower table of land was then covered with sycamore and maple trees, and the upper with beech and oak. Through this dense forest the streets were laid out, their corners being marked upon the trees. This survey extended from Eastern How, now Broadway, to Western How, now Central- avenue, and from the river as far north as Northern Row, now Seventh street. In January, 1790, Gen. Arthur St. Clair, then governor of the north-west territory, arrived at Cincinnati to organize the county of Hamilton. In the succeeding fall, Gen. Harmar marched from Fort Washington on his expedi- tion against the Indians of the north-west. In the following year (1791), the unfortunate army of St. Clair marched from the same place. On his re- turn, St. Clair gave Major Zeigler the command of Fort Washington and re- paired to Philadelphia. Soon after, the latter was succeeded by Col. Wil- kinson. This year, Cincinnati had little increase in its population. About one half of the inhabitants were attached to the army of St. Clair, and many killed in the defeat. In 1792, about fifty persons were added by emigration to the population of Cincinnati, and a house of worship erected. In the spring following, the troops which had been recruited for Wayne's army landed at Cincinnati and encamped on the bank of the river between the village of Cincinnati and Mill-creek. To that encampment Wayne gave the name of "Hobson's choice," it being the only suitable place for that object. Here he remained several months, constantly, d rilling his troops, and then moved on to a spot now in Darke county, where he erected Fort Greenville. In the fall, after the army had left, the sraall-pox broke out in the garrison at Fort Washington, and spread with so much malignity that nearly one third of the soldiers and citi- zens fell victims. In July, 1794, the army left Fort Greenville, and on the 20th of August defeated the enemy at the battle of the "Fallen Timbers," in what is now Lucas county, a few miles above Toledo. Judge Burnet thus describes Cincinnati at about this period: Prior to the treaty of Greenville, which established a permanent peace between the United States and the Indians, but few improvements had been made of any description, and scarcely one of a permanent character. In Cincinnati, Fort Wash- ington was the most remarkable object. That rude, but highly interesting struc- ture stood between Third and Fourth streets, produced east of Eastern Row, now Broadway, which was then a two pole alley, and was the eastern boundary of the town, as originally laid out It was composed of a number of strongly built, hewed log cabins, a story and a half high, calculated for soldiers' barracks. Some of them, more conveniently arranged, and better finished, were intended for officers' quar- ters. They were so placed as to form a hollow square of about an acre of ground, with a strong block-house at each angle. It was built of large logs, cut from the ground on which it stood, which was a tract of fifteen acres, reserved by congress in the law of 1792, for the accommodation of the garrison. The artificers' yard was an appendage to the fort, and stood on the bank of the river, immediately in front It contained about two acres of ground, inclosed by email contiguous buildings, occupied as work-shops and quarters for laborers. Within the inclosure; there was a large two story frame house, familiarly called the '^yellow house," built for the accommodation of the quartermaster general, which was the most commodious and best finished edifice in Cincinnati. On the north side of Fourth-street, immediately behind the fort, Col. Sargeant, secretary of the territory, had a convenient frame house, and a spacious garden, cultivated with care and taste. On the east side of the fort, Dr. Allison, the sur 100 OHIO. ge(i strong log building, erected and occupied as a jail. A room in the tavern of George Avery, near the frog-pond, at the corner of Main and Fifth-streets, hao The First Church built in Cincinnati.* been rented for the accommodation of the courts ; and as the penitentiary system had not been adopted, and Cincinnati was a seat of justice, it was ornamented with a pillory, stocks and whipping-post, and occasionally with a gallows. These were all the structures of a public character then in the place. Add to these the cabins and other temporary buildings for the shelter of the inhabitants, and it will com- plete the schedule of the improvements of Cincinnati at the time of the treaty of Greenville. It may assist the reader in forming something like a correct idea of the appear- ance of Cincinnati, and of what it actually was at that time, to know that at the :i: The engraving represents the First Presbyterian Church, as it appeared in February, 1847, and is engraved from a drawing then taken by Mr. Howe for bis "Historical Collec- tions of Ohio." It stood on the west side of Vine, just north of Fourth-street, on the spot now occupied by the Summer Garden. Its original site was on the spot now occupied by the First Presbyterian Church, on Fourth-street. In the following spring, it was taken <(<>wn, nnd the materials used for the construction of several dwellings in the part of Cincin- ).;it.i called Texas. The greater proportion of the timber was found to be perfectly sound. In 1791, a number of the inhabitants formed themselves into a company, to escort the Rev. James Keinper from beyond the Kentucky River to Cincinnati ; nnd after his arrival, a subscription was set on foot to build this church, which was erected in 1792. This sub- scription paper is still in existence, and bears date January 16, 1792. Among its signers were Gen. Wilkinson, Captains Ford, Peters and Shaylor, of the regular service, Dr. Alli- son, surgeon to St. Clairand Wayne, Winthrop Sargeant, Capt. Robert Elliott and others principally citizens, to the number of 106, not one of whom survive. OHIO. 101 intersection of Mainland Fifth-streets there was a pond of water, full of aldei bushes, from which the frogs serenaded the neighborhood during the summer and fall, and which rendered it necessary to construct a causeway of logs, to pass it. That morass remained in its natural state, with its alders and its frogs, several years after Mr. B. became a resident of the place, the population of which, includ- ing the garrison and followers of the army, was about six hundred. The fort was then commanded by William H. Harrison, a captain rn the army, but afterward president of the United States. In 1797, Gen. Wilkinson, the commander-in-chief of the army, made it his head-quarters for a few months, but did not, apparently, interfere with the command of Capt. Harrison, which continued till his resignation in 1798. During the period now spoken of, tho settlements of the territory, including Cin- cinnati, contained but few individuals, and still fewer families, who had been ac- customed to mingle in the circles of polished society. That fact put it in the power of the military to give character to the manners and customs of the people. Such Cincinnati in 1802. Population about 800. The eng, part of th it was early called, Eastern Kuw. a school, it must be admitted, was by no means calculated to make the most favor- able impression on the morals and sobriety of any community, as was abundantly proven by the result. Idleness, drinking and gambling prevailed in the army to a greater extent than it has done to any subsequent period. This may be attributed to the fact that they had been several years in the wilderness, cut off from all society but their own, with but few comforts or conveniences at hand, and no amusements but such as their own inge- nuity could invent Libraries were not to be found men of literary minds, or polished manners, were rarely met with ; and they had long been deprived of the advantage of modest, accomplished female society, which always produces a salu- tary influence on the feelin Vont Office and Cus- tom Iluun are in the structure with tin- On-i i:>n front. Mitchell A Uummo'sburg's Furniture Waroruoins, tihi'lito's Jry Goods' establishment, appear beyond. floating vharvos, which accommodate themselves to the great variation in the bight of the river. From GO to 80 steamboats are often seen here at once, presenting a scene of animation and business life. The Ohb lliver, at Cincinnati, is 1,800 feet, or about one third of a mile, 104 wide, and its mean annual range from low to high water is about 50 feet : the extreme range may be 10 feet more. The water is at its lowest point of depression usually in August, September and October, and the greatest rise, in December, March, May and June. Its current, at its mean hight, is three miles an hour; when higher, or rising, it is more, and when very low it docs not exceed two miles. The navigation of the river is rarely suspended by ice. The city is supplied with water raised from the Ohio by steam power, capable of forcing into the reservoir 5,000,000 gallons of water each twelve hours. The reservoir is elevated about 200 feet above the bed of the Ohio, and is estimated to contain 5,000,000 gallons. In point of commercial importance, Cincinnati occupies a front rank in the west. By means of the numerous steamers which are constantly plying to and fro on the bosom of the majestic river, which rolls gracefully on the south of the city, and the several canals and railroads which enter here, Cincinnati is connected with every available point of importance in the great and highly productive valley of the Mississippi. The trade is not, however, confined to the interior : and a vast amount of foreign importation and exportation is done. The pork business is carried on more extensively here than at any other place in the world. Manufacturing is entered into here with great energy, and employs a vast amount of capital. Numerous mills and factories are in operation, besides founderies, planing mills, rolling mills, saw mills, rolling mills, flouring mills, type founderies, machine shop?, distilleries, etc. Nearly all kinds of ma- chinery is driven by steam, and there are now about 300 steam engines in operation in the city. Steamboat building is an extensive and important business here. Among the most important branches of manufacture is that of iron castings, implements and machinery of various kinds, as steam en- gines, sugar mills, stoves, etc., some of the establishments employing hun- dreds of hands. The manufacture of clothing is also a great interest; and in the extent of the manufacture of furniture, the factories surpass any others in the Union. Cincinnati is also the most extensive book publishing )i!:irt in the west. The total value of the product of the manufacturing and in- dustrial pursuits of Cincinnati, for 1859, was ascertained by Mr. Ci.st to sum up more than one hundred and twelve millions of dollars. Among the heaviest items were, ready made clothing 15 millions; iron castings, 0^ millions; total iron products, 13 millions; pork and beef packing, b'^ mil- lions; candles and lard oil, 6 millions; whisky, 5^- millions; furniture, 3 millions; domestic liquors, 3^ millions; publications, newspapers, books, etc., 2- millions; and patent medicines, 2 millions. Cincinnati was the first city in the world to adopt the steam fire engine. The machine used is of Cincinnati invention, by Abel Shawk. The fire de- partment is under pay of the city. It is admirably conducted, and so efficient that a serious conflagration is very rare. The huge machines, when on thpeca- iw and Tyler too," in which occurred these verses: AVh.it }\nf caused tiiis great commotion, motion, motion, Our country through? It is the ball that's rolling on For Tippecanoe and Tyler too, For Tippeear.oe and Tyler too; And with them we'll beat little Van, V.'in, Y:>n, Van, Van is a used up man, And with them we'll beat little Van. The latch-string hangs outside the door, door, door, And is never pulled through, For it never was the custom of Old Tippeeanoe and Tyler too, Old Tippeeanoe and Tyler too ; And with them we'll beat little Van, Van, Van, Van, Van is a used up man, And with them we'll beat little Van. The tomb of Harrison is near by, on a small oval mound, elevated about 150 feet above the Ohio, and commanding a view of beauty. It is a plain brick struc- ture, without inscription. NORTH BE.VD, Residence of Pre?i\\- Jersey, and also chief justice of that state. Gen. Harrison married his daughter, who, as late as 1860, still survived. At the treaty of Greenville, the In- dians told Judge Symmes, and others, that in the war they had frequently brought np their rifles to shoot him, and then on recognizing him refused to pull the trig- ger. This was in consequence of his previous kindness to them, and spoke volumes in his praise, as well as honor to the native instinct of the savages. 110 OHIO. Three miles below North Bend, on the Ohio, was Sugar Camp Settlement, coin posed of about thirty houses, and a block-house erected as a defense against the Indians. This was about the time of the first settlement of Cincinnati. Until within a few years, this block- house was standing. The ad- joining cut is from a draw- ing taken on the spot in 1 S4G We give it because it shows the ordinary form of these structures. Their distin- guishing feature is that from the bight of a man's shoulder the building the rest of the way up projects a foot or two from the lower part, leaving at the point of junction be- tween the two parts a cavity ANCIENT Ki,ocK-Horsr, NEAR NORTH BEND. through which to thrst rifles on the approach of enemies. Hamilton, the capital of Butler county, is 25 miles north of Cincinnati, on the Miami Canal, river and railroad to Dayton, and at the terminus of a railroad to llichmond. A hydraulic canal of 28 feet fall gives excellent water power, and there are now in operation several flourishing manufactur- ing establishments paper, flouring, woolen, planing mills, iron foundries, etc. Population 8000. The well known Miami University is 12 miles north- west of Hamilton, in the beautiful town of Oxford. Jultn Gleves Sytnmes, the author of the "Theory of Concentric Spheres," demon- strating that the earth is hollow, inhabited by human beings, and widely open at the poles, was a native of New Jersey, and a nephew of Judge Symmes. He re- pided in the latter part of his life at Hamilton, where he died in 1829, aged about 50 years. In early life he entered the army as an ensign. He was with Scott in his Niagara campaign, and acted with braver) 7 . In a short circular, dated at St. Louis, in 1818, Capt. Symmes first promul- gated the fundamental principles of his theory to the world. From time to time, he published various articles in the pub- lic prints upon the subject. He .also de- livered lectures, first at Cincinnati in 1820, und afterward in various places in Ken- tucky and Ohio. " In the year 1822, Capt. Symrries petitioned the congress of the United States, setting forth, in the first place, his belief of the ex- istence of a habitable and accessible concave to this globe; his desire to embark on a voy- age of discovery to one or other of the polar regions; his belief in the great profit and honor his country would derive from such a dis- covery; and prayed that congress would equip and fit out for the expedition, two vessels, of two hundred and fifty or three hundred tuns burden; and grant such other aid as gov- eminent might deem necessary to promote the object. This petition was presented in the senate by Col. Richard M. Johnson, on the 7th day of March, 1822, when (a motion to refer it to the committee of foreign relations having failed), after a few remarks it was laid on the table Ayes, 25. In December, 1823, he forwarded similar petitions to both bouses of congress, which met with a similar fate. In January 1824, he petitioned th JIOXI'MENT OF J. C. SYMMES. Symnies' Hole" memory. It is surmounted by a glolie " open at the poles." OHIO. Ill general assembly of the state of Ohio, praying that body to pass a resolution ap;:robatory of his theory; and to recommend him to congress for an outfit suitable to the enterprise. This memorial was presented by Micajah T. Williams, and, on motion, the further con- sideration thereof was indefinitely postponed." His theory was met with ridicule, both in this country and Europe, and became a fruitful source of jest and levity, to the public prints of the day. Notwithstand- ing, lie advanced many plausible and ingenious arguments, and won quite a num ber of converts among those who attended his lectures, one of whom, a gentleman of Hamilton, wrote a work in its support, published in Cincinnati in 1826, in which he stated his readiness to embark on a voyage of discovery to the North Pole, for the purpose of testing its truth. Capt. Sy mines met with the usual fate of' pro- jectors, in living and dying in great pecuniary embarrassment: but he left the reputation of an honest man. South-eastern view of tJie Court House, at Chillicothe. This beautiful and commodious structure in in the central part of Chillicothe ; tho left wing, on the cor. ner of Main and J'aint-stn-ets, attached to the main building, contains the offices of the Probate . I ud*e, the Sheriff, and tho Clerk ; tho other wing, those of tho llocordor, Treasurer, and Auditor. The 1'irst Presbyterian Church is seen on the left. CHILLICOTHE is on the west bank of the Scioto, on the line of the Ohio Canal and Marietta and Cincinnati Railroad, 45 miles S. of Columbus, 45 from Portsmouth, and 96 from Cincinnati. The Scioto curves around it on the north, and Paint creek flows on the south. The site of the place is on a plain about 30 feet above the river. It contains 17 churches, a young ladies' Academy of the Notre Dame, a flourishing military academy, lAid about 9,000 inhabitants. The new court house, in this town, is one of the best designed, most beautiful, and convenient structures of the kind we have seen in our tour through the United States. It was erected at an expense of about $100,000, and was designed by Gen. James Howe, one of the county commissioners. A room is set apart in the court house for the preservation of the relics of antiquity. Here is preserved the table around which the members of the territorial council sat when they formed the laws of the North West Territory, of which Chillicothe was the capital. Around it also gathered the members who formed the first constitution of Ohio. The old bell which called them to- 112 OHIO. gethcr is preserved, also the copper eagle, which, for fifty years, perched on the spire of the old state house. In 1800, the old state house was commenced and finished the next year. for the accommodation of the legislature and courts. It is believed that it was the first public stone edi- fice erected in the territory. The mason work was done by Major "Win. Kutledge, a sol- dier of the Revolution, and the carpentering by William Guthrie. The territorial leg- islature held their session in it for the first time in 1801. The convention that framed the first constitution of Ohio was held in it, the session commencing on the first Mon- day in November, 1802. In April, 1803, the first state leg- islature met in the house, and held their sessions until 1810. The sessions of 1810-11, and 1811-12, were held at Zanes- ville, and from there removed back to Chillicothe and held in this house until 1816, when Columbus became the perma- nent capital of the state. This ancient edifice was standing until within a few years. In the war of 1812, Chillicothe was a rendezvous for United States troops. They were stationed at Camp Bull, a stockade one mile N. of the town, on the west bank of the Scioto. A large number of British prisoners, amounting to several hundred, were at one time confined at the camp. On one occasion, a conspiracy was formed between the soldiers and their officers who were confined in jail. The plan was for the privates in camp to disarm their guard, proceed to the jail, release the officers, burn the town, and escape to Canada. The conspiracy was disclosed by two senior British officers, upon which, as a measure of security, the officers were sent to the penitentiary in Frankfort, Ky. Four deserters were shot at camp at one time. The ceremony was impressive and horrible. The soldiers were all marched out under arms, with music playing, to witness the death of their comrades, and arranged in one long extended lino in front of the camp, facing the river. Close by the river bank, at considerable dis- tances apart, the deserters were placed, dressed in full uniform, with their coats buttoned up and caps drawn over their faces. They were confined to stakes in a kneeling position behind their coffins, painted black, which came up to their waists, exposing the upper part of their persons to the fire of their fellow-soldiers. Two sections, of six men each, were marched before each of the doomed. Signals were given by an officer, instead of words of command, so that the unhappy men should not be apprised of the moment of their death. At the given signal the first sec- tions raised their muskets and poured the fatal volleys into the breasts of their comrades. Three of the four dropped dead in an instant; but the fourth sprang up with great force, and ;ave a scream of agony. The reserve section stationed before him were ordered to their places, and another volley completely riddled 1m bosom. Even then the thread of life seemed hard to sunder. On another occasion, an execution took place at the same spot under most mel- ancholy circumstances. It was that of a mere youth of nineteen, the son of a OLD STATE HOUSE, CHII.MCOTRE. [Drawn by Henry Howe, in 1840.] OHIO. 113 widow. In a frolic he had wandered several miles from camp, and was on bis re- turn when he stopped at an inn by the way-side. The landlord, a fiend in human simpe, apprised oi' the reward of $50, oifered for the apprehension of deserters, porsuaded him to remain over night, with the offer of taking him into camp in the morning, at which he stated he had business. The youth, unsuspicious of any- thing wrong, accepted the offer made with such apparent kindness, when lo! on his arrival next day with the landlord, he surrendered him as a deserter, swore falsely as'to the facts, claimed and obtained the reward. The court-martial, igno- rant of the circumstances, condemned him to death, and it was not until he was no more, that his innocence was known. Portsmouth from the Kentucky shore of the Ohio. The view shows tho appinrnn*' of th-s Steamboat Landing, as seen from Springville, on the Kentucky Fide of the Ohio. The Biggs' House, corner of Market and Front-streets, appears on the left, Gaylord & Co.'s Rolling Mill on the right. Tlio Scioto Ilivur passes at the foot of the mountainous range on tho left. PORTSMOUTH, the capital of Scioto county, is beautifully situated on the Ohio River, at the mouth of the Scioto, 90 miles S. of Columbus, and 110 by the river above Cincinnati, at the terminus of the Erie and Ohio Canal, and Scioto and Hocking Valley Railroad. It contains 16 churches, 5 foun- deries, 3 rolling mills, 3 machine shops, and about 8,000 inhabitants. The great iron region of the state lies north and east of Portsmouth, and adds much to the business of the town. Here, on the Kentucky side of the Ohio, is a range of mountainous hills, averaging 500 feet high. Opposite Ports- mouth they rise precipitously to a hight of 600 feet, being the highest eleva- tion on the Ohio River, presenting a very striking and beautiful appearance. The Ohio is 600 yards wide at the landing, which is one of the best on the river, there being water sufficient for the largest boats at all seasons. A -wire suspension bridge passes over the Scioto at this place. It is said that 1^- miles below the old mouth of the Scioto, stood, about the year 1740, a French fort or trading station. Prior to the settlement at Marietta, an attempt at settlement was made at Portsmouth, the history of which is annexed from an article in the American Pioneer, by George Cor- win, of Portsmouth: In April, 1785, four families from the Redstone settlement in Pennsylvania, de- scended the Ohio to the mouth of the Scioto, and there moored their boat under the high bank where Portsmouth now stands. They commenced clearing the 8 114 OHIO ground to plant seeds for a crop to support their families, hoping that the red men of the forest would suffer them to remain and improve the soil. They seemed to hope that white men would no longer provoke the Indians to savage warfare. Soon after they landed, the four men, the heads of the families, started up tho Scioto to see the paradise of the west, of which they had heard from the mouths of white men who had traversed it during their captivity among the natives. Leav- ing the little colony, now consisting of four women and their children, to the pro- tection of an over-ruling Providence, they traversed the beautiful bottoms of the Scioto as far up as the prairies above, and opposite to where Piketon now stands. One of them, Peter Patrick by name, pleased with the country, cut the initials of his name on a beech, near the river, which being found in after times, gave the name of Pee Pee to the creek that flows through the prairie of the same name ; and from that creek was derived the name of Pee Pee township in Pike county. Encamping near the site of Piketon, they were surprised by a party of Indians, who killed two of them as they lay by their fires. The other two escaped over the hills to the Ohio River, which they struck at the mouth of the Little Scioto, just as some white men going down the river in a pirogue were passing. They were going to Port Vincennes, on the Wabash. The tale of woe which was told by these men, with entreaties to be taken on board, was at first insufficient for their relief. It was not uncommon for Indians to compel white prisoners to act in a similar manner to entice boats to the shore for murderous and marauding purposes. After keeping them some time running down the shore, until they believed that if there was an ambuscade of Indians on shore, they were out of its reach, they took them on hoard, and brought them to the little settlement, the lamentations at which can not be described, nor its feeling conceived, when their peace was broken and their hopes blasted by the intelligence of the disaster reaching them. My informant was one who came down in the pirogue. There was, however, no time to be lost; their safety depended on instant flight and gathering up all their movables, tlu-y put off to Limestone, now Maysville, as a place of greater safety, where the men in the pirogue left them, and my informant said, never heard of them more. Circlevillc, the county scat of Pickaway county, on the Scioto River, on the line of the Erie and Ohio Canal, and on the railroad from Cincinnati to Wheeling, is 26 miles S. from Columbus, and 19 N. from Chillicothe. It lias numerous mills and factories, and an extensive water power. Population about 5,000. It was laid out in 1810, as the seat of justice, by Daniel Dresbatch, on land originally belonging to Zeiger and Watt. The town is on the site of ancient fortifications, one of which having been circular, originated the name of the place. The old court hounbered Zion. The voices of part of the choir were for a season suppressed with emotion. An incident occurred, which some Mrs. Sigourney should put into a poetical dress. Deacon Theophilus Reese, a Welsh Baptist, had two or three yenrs before built a cabin a mile and a halt north, and lived all this time without public worship. He had lost his cows, mid he-iring a lowing of the oxen belonging to the company, set out toward them. As he ascended the hills overlooking the town-plot, he heard the singing of the choir. The reverberation of the sound from hill-tops and trees, threw the good man into a serious dilemma. The music at first seemed to be behind, then in the tops of the trees or the clouds. He stopped till, by accurate listening, he caught the direction of the sound, and went on, till passing the brow of the hill, when he saw the audience sitting on the level l.ilow. He went home and told his wife that ''the promise of God is a bond;" a Welsh OHIO. 119 phrase, signifying that we have security, equal to a bond, that religion will prevail every- where, lie said, "these must be. (food pro/ilf. 1 am not afraid to go among them.'" Q hough lie could not understand English, he constantly attended the reading meeting. I! curing the music on that occasion made such an impression upon his mind, that when he became old and met the first settlers, he would alwavs tell over this storv. . ! Court House, ZanesciUe. E, tlie capital of Muskinguin county, is beautifully situated on the cast bank of the Muskingutn River, opposite the mouth of the Licking creek, 54 miles E. of Columbus, 82 from Wheeling:, and 179 E.N.E. from Cincinnati. The Muskinjrum, in passing the town, has a natural descent of nine feet in a distance of about a mile, which is increased by dams to sixteen feet, thus affording great water-power, which is used by extensive manufac- tories of various kinds. The number of factories using steam power is also large, arising f'rc in the abundance of bituminous coal supplied from the sur- rounding hills. Steamboats can ascend from the Ohio to this point, and several make regular passages between Zancsville and Cincinnati. The Cen- tral Ohio Railroad connects it with Columbus on one hand and Wheeling on the other; the Z-mesville, Wilmington and Cincinnati Railroad, about 130 miles long, terminates here, and connects with another leading north to Cleveland. Five bridges cross the Muskingum here, including the railroad bridge, connecting the city with Putnam, South Zanesville and West Zanesville, all of which are intimately connected with the business interests of Zanes-ville proper. There are 5 flouring mills, also iron founderies and machine shops, which do an extensive business. The railroad bridge is of iron, 538 feet in length, and contains 67 tuns of wrought iron and 130 tuns of cast iron. The water of the river is raised, by a forcing pump, into a reservoir on a hill 100 feet high, containing nearly a million of gallons, and from thence dis- tributed through the city in iron pipes. Zanesville has excellent schools, among which is the Free School, supported by a fund of from $300,000 to f.")(lii. (100, bequeathed by J. Mclntire, one of the founders of the place. Within a circuit of a mile from the court house are about 16.000 inhabit- ant?: within the city proper, about 10,000. In May, 1736, congress passed a law authorizing Ebenczer Zane to open 120 OHI - a road from Wheeling, Va., to Limestone, now Maysville, Ky. In the fol- lowing year, Mr. Zane, accompanied by his brother, Jonathan Zane, and his son-in-law, John Mclutire, both experienced woodsmen, proceeded to mark out the new road, which was afterward cut out by the latter two. As a com- pensation for opening this road, congress granted to Ebenezer Zane the priv- ilege of locating military warrants upon three sections of land, not to exceed one mile square each. One of these sections was to bo at the crossing of the Muskingum, and one of the conditions annexed to Mr. Zane's grant was, that he should keep a ferry at that spot. This was intrusted to Win. M'Culloch and II. Crooks. The first mail ever carried in Ohio was brought from Ma- rietta to M'Culloch's cabin, by Daniel Convers, in 1798. Tn 1799, Messrs. Zane and M'Intire laid out the town, which they called West- bourn, a name which it continued to bear until a post-office was established by the postmaster general, under the name of Zanesvillo, and the village soon took the same name. A few families from the Kanawha, settled on the west side of the river soon after M'Culloch arrived, and the settlement received pretty numerous accessions until it became a point of importance. It contained one store and no tavern. The latter inconvenience, however, was remedied by Mr. M'Intire, who, for public accommodation, rather than for private emolument, opened a house of entertainment It is due to Mr. M'Intire and his lady to say that their accommo- dations, though in a log cabin, were such as to render their house the traveler's home. Prior to that time there were several grog shops where travelers might stop, and after partaking of a rude supper, they could spread their blankets and bearskins on the floor, and sleep with their feet to the fire. But the opening of Mr. M'Intire's house introduced the luxury of comfortable beds, and although his board was covered with the fruits of the soil and the chase, rather than the luxu- ries of foreign clim-es, the fare was various and abundant. This, the tirst hotel at Zanesville, stood at what is now the corner of Market and Second-streets, a few rods from the river, in an open maple grove, without any underbrush ; it was a pleasant spot, well shaded with trees, and in full view of the falls. Louis Phillippe, late king of France, was once a guest of Mr. M'Intire. At that time, all the iron, nails, castings, flour, fruit, with many other articles now produced here in abundance, were brought from Pittsburgh and Wheeling, cither upon pack-horses across the country, or by the river in canoes. Oats and corn were usually brought about fifty miles up the river, in canoes, and were worth from 75 cents to 1 per bushel: flour, $6 to $8 per barrel. In 1802,' David Har- vey opened a tavern at the intersection of Third and Main-streets, which was about tho first shingle roofed house in the town. Mr. M'Intire having only kept enter- tainment for public accommodation, discontinued after the opening of Mr. Har- vey's tavern. In 1804, when the legislature passed an act establishing the county of Mus- kiriiriim, the commissioners appointed to select a site for the county seat, reported in favor of Zanesville. The county seat having been established, the town im- proved more rapidly, and as the unappropriated United States military lands had been brought into market during the preceding year (1803), and a land office established at Za/iesville, many purchases and settlements were made in the county. The seat of government had been fixed temporarily at Chillicothe, but for sev- oral reasons, many members of the legislature were dissatisfied, and it was known tint a change of location was desired by them. In February, 1810, tho desired law was passed, fixing the seat of government at % inesviile, until otherwise provided. The legislature sat here during the sessions of 'l!!-'ll and 'll-'J'J, when tbo present site of Columbus having been fixed upon Cor t'.ic permanent scat, tho Chillicothe interest prevailed, and the temporary scat was oiHH! more fixed at tiiat place, until suitable buildings could be erected at Columbus. Tho project of removing the seat of government had been agitated as early as 1S07 or' '8, and the anticipation entertained that Zanesville would be selected, gave OHIO. 121 increased activity to the progress of improvement. Much land was entered in tho county, and many settlements made, although as late as 1813, land was entered within three miles of Zanesville. In 1809, parts of- the town plat were covered with the natural growth of timber. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments, the first three in the ancient graveyard, on the hill at the head of Main-street, in Zanesville, the others in the extensive cemetery in Putnam, the village opposite : Sacred to the memory of JOHN MC!N'TIRK, who departed this life July 29, 1815, aged 56 years, lie was born at Alexandria, Virginia, laid out the town of Zanesville in 1800, of which he was the Patron and Father. He was a member of the Convention which formed the Constitution of Ohio. A kind husband, an obliging neighbor, punctual to his engage- ments; of liberal mind, and benevolent disposition, his death was sincerely lamented. Sacred to the memory of WILLIAM RAYNOLDS, a native of Virginia, ho emigrated to Ohio in 1804, and settled in the town at the foot of this hill, where he departed this life Nov. 12, 1844, aged 50 years. AVho, though formed in an age when corruption ran high, And folly alone seemed with folly to vie ; When genius with traffic too commonly strain'd, Recounted her merits by what she had gain'd, Yet spurn'd at those walks of debasement and pelf, And in poverty's spite, dared to think for himself. Man goeth to his long home, and mourners go about the streets. Within this case lieth the mortal part of DAVID HARVEY, who was born in the parish of Hogcn, county of Corn- wall, England, June 21, 1746; arrived in Fredericktown, Md., June, 1774, and voted for the Independence of the United States ; supported the war by furnishing a soldier during the term thereof, according to an act of the Assembly of that State. Arrived on the bank of the Muskingum River, at Zanesville, Ohio, 10th of Dec., 1800. Died May, 1845, aged 69 years. WILLIAM WKLLES, born in Glastcnbury, Conn., 1754. Among the pioneers of the North West Territory, he shared largely in their labors, privations and perils. In 1790, he lo- cated at Cincinnati. As Commissary he was with the army of St. Clair, and was wounded in its memorable defeat. In 1800, ho settled in Zanesville, subsequently he removed to Putnam, where he lived respected and beloved by all who knew him, and died universally lamented, on tho 26th of Jan., 1814. DR. INCREASE MATTHEWS, born in Braintree, Massachusetts, Dec. 22, 1772. Died Juno 6,1850. " Blessed is the man in whose spirit there is no guile." Psalms xxxii, 2. Dr. Matthews emigrated to Marietta, Ohio, 1803. In the spring of 1801 he removed to Zanes- ville, find the same year bought the land which forms the cemetery, including the town plat of Putnam. For some time he was the only physician in the county. Among the early pioneers of the valley of tho Muskingum, his many unostentatious virtues, and the purity und simplicity of his life and character were known and appreciated. Cosliocton, the capital of Coshocton county, is a small village, 30 miles above Zanesville, at the forks of the Muskingum, and on the line of the Pittsburg, Columbus and Cincinnati Railroad. This vicinity was a favorite residence of the Indians, especially the Shawnees, and they had numerous villages on the Muskingum and its branches. Before the settlement of the country, there were several military expeditions into this ivgion. The first was made in the fall of 1764, by Col. Henry Boquet, with a lurge body of British regulars and borderers of Pennsylvania and Virginia, Over- awed by his superiority, and unable by his vigilance to effect a surprise, the combined tribes made a peace with him", in which they agreed to deliver up their captives. The delivery took place on the 9th of November, at or near the site of Coshocton. The number brought in was 206, men, women and children, all from 122 OHIO. the frontiers of Pennsylvania and Virginia. The scene which then took place was very affecting, as related by Hutchins. Language, indeed, can but weakly describe the scene, one to which the poet or painter might have repaired to enrich the highest colorings of the variety of the human passions, the philosopher, to find ample, subject for the mos-t serious reflection, and the man to exer- cise all the tender and sympathetic feelings of the soul. There were to be seen fathers and mothers recognizing and clasping their once lost babes, husbands hanging around the necks of their newly recovered wives, sisters and brothers unexpectedly meeting together, after a l"iig separation, scarcely able to speak the same language, or for some time to be sure that they were the children of the same parents. In all these interviews joy and rap- ture inexpressible were seen, while feelings of a very different nature were painted in the looks of others, flVing from place to place, in eager inquiries after relatives not found; trembling to receive an answer to questions; distracted with doubts, hopes and fears on obtaining no account of those they sought for; or stiffened into living monuments of hor- ror and woe, on learning their unhappy fate. The Indians, too, as if wholly forgetting their usual savageness, bore a capital part in hightening this most affecting scene. They delivered up their beloved captives with the utmost reluctance shed torrents of tears over them recommending them to the care and protection of the commanding officer. Their regard to them continued all the while they remained in camp. They visited them from day to day, brought them what corn, skins, horses, and other matters had been bestowed upon them while in their families, accompa- nied with other presents, and all the marks of the most sincere and tender affection. Nay, they didn't stop here, but when the army marched, some of the Indians solicited and ob- tained permission to accompany their former captives to Fort Pitt, and employed them- selves in hunting and bringing provisions for them on the way. A young Mingo carried this still farther, and gave an instance of love which would make a figure even in romance. A young woman of Virginia was among the captives, to whom he had formed so strong an attachment as to call her his wife. Against all the remonstrances of the imminent danger to which he exposed himself by approaching the frontier, he persisted in following her, at the risk of being killed by the surviving relatives of many unfortunate persons who had been taken captive or scalped by those of his nation. But it must not be deemed that there were not some, even grown persons, who showed an unwillingness to return. The Shawnees were obliged to bind some of their prisoners, and force them along to the camp, and some women who had been delivered up, afterward found means to escape, and went back to the Indian tribes. Some who could not make their escape, clung to their savage acquaintances at parting, and continued many days in bitter lamentations, even refusing sustenance. In 1774, in Dunmore's war, a second expedition, of 400 Virginians, under Col. Angus M'Donald, entered the country, and destroyed the Wakatomica towns, and burnt the corn of the Indians. This was in the vicinity of Dres- den, a few miles below the forks. In the summer of 1780, a third expedition, called " ihe CosTircton campaign" was made, under Col. Broadhead. The troops rendezvoused at Wheeling, and inarched to the forks of the Muskingum. They took about 40 prisoners, whom they tomahawked and scalped in cold blood. A chief, who, under promise of protec- tion, came to make peace, was conversing with Broadhead, when a man, named Wetzel, came behind him, and drawing a concealed tomahawk from the bosom of his hunting shirt, lifted it on high and then buried it in his brains. The confiding savage quivered, fell and expired. In Tuscarawas county, which lies directly east and adjoining to Coshoc- ton, as early as 1762, the Moravian missionaries, Rev. Frederick Post and John Heckewelder, established a Mission among the Indians on the Tusca- rawas, where, in 1781, Mary Heckewelder, the first white child born in Ohio, first saw the light. Other missionary auxiliaries were sent out by that society, for the propagation of the Christian religion among the Indians. Among these was the Rev. David Zeisberger, a man whose devotion to the cause was attested by the hardships he endured, and the dangers he encoun- tered. Had the same pacific policy which governed the Friends of Penn- sylvania, in their treatment of the Indians, been adopted by the white set- OHIO. 123 tiers of the west, the efforts of the Moravian missionaries in Ohio would have been more successful. They had three stations on the Tuscarawas River, or rather three Indian villages, viz : Booenbran, Gnadenhutten and Salem. The site of the first is about two miles south of New Philadelphia; seven miles farther south was Gnadenhutten, in the immediate vicinity of the present village of that name ; and about five miles below that was Salem, a short distance from the village of Port Washington. The first and last mentioned were on the west side of the Tuscarawas, now near the margin of the Ohio canal. Gnadenhutten is on the east side of the river. It was here that a massacre took place on the 8th of March, 1782, which, for cool barbarity, is perhaps unequaled in the history of the Indian wars. The Moravian villages on the Tuscarawas were situated about mid-way between the white settlements near the Ohio, and some warlike tribes of Wyandots and Delawures on the Sandusky. These latter were chiefly in the service of England, or at least opposed to the colonists, with whom she was then at war. There was a Brit- ish station at Detroit, and an American one at Fort Pitt (Pittsburg), which were regarded as the nucleus of western operations by each of the contending parties. The Moravian villages of friendly Indians on the Tuscarawas were situated, as the saying is, between two fires. As Christian converts and friends of peace, both policy and inclination led them to adopt neutral grounds. Several depredations had Been committed by hostile Indians, about this time, on the frontier inhabitants of western Pennsylvania and Virginia, who determined to retaliate. A company of one hundred men was raised and placed under the command of Col. Williamson, as a corps of volunteer militia. They set out for the Moravian towns on the Tuscarawas, and arrived within a mile of Gnad^nhut- ten on the night of the 5th of March. On the morning of the 6th, finding the In- dians were employed in their corn-field, on the west side of the river, sixteen of Williamson's men crossed, two at a time, over in a large sap-trough, or vessel used for retaining sugar water, taking their rifles with them. The remainder went into the village, where they found a man and a woman, both of whom they killed. The sixteen on the west side, on approaching the Indians in the field, found them more numerous than they expected. They had their arms with them, which was usual on such occasions, both for purposes of protection and for killing game. The whites accosted them kindly, told them they had come to take them to a place where they would be in future protected, and advised them to quit work, and re- turn with them to the neighborhood of Fort Pitt. Some of the Indians had been taken to that place in the preceding year, had been well treated by the American governor of the fort, and been dismissed with tokens of warm friendship. Under these circumstances, it is not surprising that the unsuspecting Moravian Indians readily surrendered their arms, and at once consented to be controlled by the ad- vice of Col. Williamson and his men. An Indian messenger was dispatched to Salem, to apprise the brethren there of the new arrangement, and both companies returned to Gnadenhutten. On reaching the village, a number of mounted militia started for the Salem settlement, but e'er they reached it, found that the Moravian Indians at that place had already left their corn-field?, by the advice of the messenger, and were on the road to join their breth- ren at Gnadenhutten. Measures had been adopted by the militia to secure the Indians whom they had at first decoyed into their power. They were bound, confined in two houses and well guarded. On the arrival of the Indians from Salem (their arms having been pre- viously secured without suspicion of any hostile intention), they were also fettered, and di- vided between the two prison houses, the males in one, and the females in the other. The number thus confined in both, including men, women and children, have been estimated from ninety to ninety-six. A council was then held to determine how the Moravian Indians should be disposed of. This self constituted military court embraced both officers and privates. The late Dr. Dodridge, in his published notes on Indian wars, etc., says: " Colonel Williamson put the question, whether the Moravian Indians should be taken prisoners to Fort Pitt, or put to death?''' 1 requesting those who were in favor of saving their lives to step out and form a second rank. Only eighteen out of the whole number stepped forth as the advocates of mercy. In these the feelings of humanity were not extinct. In the majority, which was large, no sympathy was manifested. They resolved to murder (for no other word can ex- 124 OHIO. press the act), the whole of the Christian Indians in their custody. Among these were several who had contributed to aid the missionaries in the work of conversion and civiii- y.ation two of whom emigrated from New Jersey after the death of their spiritual pastor, Rev. David Braiuard. One woman, who could speak good English, knelt before the com- mander and begged his protection. Her supplication was unavailing. They were ordered to prepare for death. But the warning had been anticipated. Their firm belief in their new creed was shown forth in the sad hour of their tribulation, by religious exercises of preparation. The orisons of these devoted people were already ascending the throne of the Most High! the sound of the Christian's hymn and the Christian's prayer found au echo in the surrounding woods, but 110 responsive feeling in the bosoms of their execution- ers. With gun, and spear, and tomahawk, and scalping knife, the work of death pro- gressed in these slaughter houses, till not a sigh or moan was heard to proclaim the exist- ence of human life within all, save two two Indian boys escaped, as if by a miracle, to be witnesses in after times of the savage cruelty of the white man toward their unfortu- nate race. Thus were upward of ninety human beings hurried to an untimely grave by those who should have been their legitimate protectors. After committing the barbarous act, Wil- liamson and his men set fire to the houses containing the dead, and then marched oft' for Shoenbrun, the upper Indian town. But here the news of their atrocious deeds had pre- ceded them. The inhabitants hud all fled, and with them fled for a time the hopes of the missionaries to establish a settlement of Christian Indians on the Tuscarawas. The fruits of ten years' labor in the cause of civilization were apparently lost. Those engaged in the campaign, were generally men of standing at home. When the expedition was formed, it was given out to the public that its sole object was to remove the Moravians to Pittsburg, and by destroying the villages, deprive the hostile savages of a shelter. In their towns, various articles plundered from the whites, were discovered. One man is said, to have found the bloody clothes of his wife and children, who had re- cently been murdered. These articles, doubtless, had been purchased of the hostile Indi- ans. The sight of these, it is said, bringing to mind the forms of murdered relations, wrought them up to an uncontrollable pitch of frenzy, which nothing but blood could satisfy. In the year 1799, when the remnant of the Moravian Indians were recalled by the United States to reside on the same spot, an old Indian, in company with a young man by the name of Carr, walked over the desolate scene, and showed to the white man an excava- tion, which had formerly been a cellar, and in which were still some moldering bones of the victims, though seventeen years had passed since their tragic death the tears, in the meantime, falling down the wrinkled face of this aged child of the Tuscarawas. The Mission, having been resumed, was continued in operation until the year 1823, when the Indians sold out their lands to the United States, and removed to a Moravian station on the Thames, in Canada. The faithful Zeisberger died and was buried at Goshen, the last abiding place of his flock. In a small graveyard there, a little marble slab bears the following inscrip- tion : DAVID ZEISBERGER, who was born llth April, 1721, in Moravia, and departed this life 7th Nov., 1808. aged 87 years, 7 months and 6 days. This faithful servant of the Lord labored among the Moravian Indians, as a missionary, during the last sixty years of his life. STBUBENVILLE, the capital of Jefferson county, is situated on the right bank of the Ohio, on an elevated plain, 150 miles from Columbus, 36, in a direct line, from Pittsburgh, and 75 by the river, and 22 above Wheeling, Va. It is surrounded by a beautiful country, and is the center of an exten- ive trade, and nourishing manufactories of various kinds, which are supplied with fuel from the inexhaustible mines of stone coal in the vicinity. The Female Seminary at this place, situated on the bank of the river, is a flour- ishing institution, and has a widely extended reputation. It contains about 9,000 inhabitants. Steubenville was laid out in 1798, by Bezabel Wells and James Ross. It derives it* name from Fort Steuben, which was erected in 1789, on High-street, near the site of the Female Seminary. It was built of block-houses connected by palisade fences, and was dismantled at the tune of Wayne's victory, previous to which it OHIO. 125 had been garrisoned by the United States infantry, under the command of Colonel Beatty. The old Mingo town, three miles below Steubenville, was a place of note prior to the settlement of the country. It was the point where the troops of Col. Wil- liamson rendezvoused in the infamous Moravian campaign, and those of Colonel Crawford, in his unfortunate expedition against the Sandusky Indians. It was View in SteubenvUle. Tno pnarravinrr shows tlip niminrnni'p nf Market -street, looking westward, near tlie Court Kouse, which rp;:.-:trs on the rifrhr ; a portion of tii Market on the left ; the Steubenville and Indiana Railroad crosses IV arket-street in the distance, near which are Woolen I'ac-lorios. also, at^one time, the residence of Logan, the celebrated Mingo chief, whose form was striking and manly, and whose magnanimity and eloquence have seldom been equaled. ^ He was a son of the Caynga chief Skikellimus, who dwelt at Shamokin, 3'a., in 1742, and was converted to Christianity under the preaching of the Mora- vian missionaries. Skikellimns highly esteemed James Logan, the secretary of the province, named his son from him, and probably had him baptized by the mission- aries. Logan took no part in the old French Avar, which ended in 1760, except that of a peace maker, and was always the friend of the white people until the base mur- der of his family to which has been attributed the origin of Dnmnore's war. This event took place nenr the mouth of Yellow creek, in this county, about 17 miles above Steubenville. During the war which followed, Logan frequently showed his magnanimity to prisoners Avho fell into his hands. Gmncaitf, in Ashtabula county, the north-eastern corner township of Ohio, is on Lake Erie, and on the Lake Shore Railroad, 67 miles east of Cleve- land ; it is distinguished as the landing place of the party who made the first settlement of northern Ohio, in 1796; hence it is sometimes called the Ply- mouth of the Western Reserve. There is a good harbor at the mouth of Conneaut creek, and a light house. On the 4th of July, 1796, the first surveying party of the Western Re- serve landed at the mouth of Conneaut creek. Of this event, John Barr, Esq., in his sketch of the Western Reserve, in the National Magazine for December, 1845, has given the following sketch : The sons of revolutionary sires, some of them sharers of themselves in the great baptism of the republic, they made the anniversary of their country's freedom a 126 OHIO. day of ceremonial and rejoicing. They felt that they had arrived at the place of their labors, the to many of them sites of home, as little alluring, almost as crowded with dangers, as were the levels of Jamestown, or the rocks of Plymouth to the ancestors who had preceded them in the conquest of the sea-coast wilderness of this continent. From old homes and friendly and social associations, they were almost as completely exiled as were the cavaliers who debarked upon the shores of Virginia, or the Puritans who sought the strand of Massachusetts. Far away as they were from the villages of their birth and boyhood; before them the trackless forest, or the un traversed lake, yet did they resolve to cast fatigue, and privation and peril from their thoughts for the time being, and give to the day its due, to pa- triotism its awards. Mustering their numbers, they sat them down on the east- ward shore of the stream now known as Conneaut, and, dipping from the lake the liquor in which they pledged their country their goblets, some tin cups of no rare workmanship, yet every way answerable, with the ordnance accompaniment of two or three fowling pieces discharging the required national salute the first settlers of the Reserve spent their landing-day as became the sons of the Pilgrim Fathers as the advance pioneers of a population that has since made the then wilderness of northern Ohio to " blossom as the rose," and prove the homes of a people as re- markable for integrity, industry, love of country, moral truth and enlightened leg- islation, as any to be found within the territorial limits of their ancestral New England. The whole party numbered on. this occasion, fifty-two persons, of whom two were fe- males (Mr3. Stiles and Mrs. Gunn, and a child). As these individuals were the advance of after millions of population, their names become worthy of record, and are therefore given, viz: Moses Cleveland, agent of the company; Augustus Porter, principal surveyor; Seth Pease, Moses Warren, Amos Spafford, Milton Hawley, Richard M. Stoddard, sur- veyors; Joshua Stowe, commissary; Theodore Shepard, physician; Joseph Tinker, princi- pal boatman; Joseph Mclntyre, George Proudfoot, Francis Gay, Samuel Forbes, Elijah Gunn, wife and child, Amos Sawten, Stephen Benton, Amos Barber, Samuel Hungerford, William B. Hall, Samuel Davenport, Asa Mason, Amzi Atwater, Michael Coffin, Elisha Ayres, Thomas Harris, Norman Wilcox, Timothy Dunham, George Goodwin, Shadrach Benham, Samuel Agnew, Warham Shepard, David Beard, John Briant, Titus V. Munson, Joseph Landon, Job V. Stiles and wife, Charles Parker, Ezekiel Hawley, Nathaniel Doan, Luke Hanchet, James Hasket, James Hamilton, Olney F. Rice, John Lock, and four others whose names are not mentioned. On the 5th of July, the workmen of the expedition were employed in the erection of a large, awkwardly constructed log building; locating it on the sandy beach on the east shore of the stream, and naming it " Stowe Castle," after one of the party. This became the storehouse of the provisions, etc., and the dwelling place of the families. No perma- nent settlement was made at Conneaut until 1799, three years later. Judge James Kingsbury, who arrived at Conneaut shortly after the sur- veying party, wintered with his family at this place, in a cabin which stood on a spot now covered by the waters of the lake. This was about the first family that wintered on the Reserve. The story of the sufferings of this family have often been told, but in the midst of plenty, where want is unknown, can with difficulty be appreciated. The surveyors, in the prose- cution of their labors westwardly, had principally removed their stores to Cleveland, while the family of Judge Kingsbury remained at Conneaut. Being compelled by business to leave in the fall for the state of New York, with the hope of a speedy return to his family, the judge was attacked by a severe fit of sickness confining him to his bed until the setting in of winter. As soon as able he proceeded on his return as far as Buffalo, where he hired an Indian to guide him through the wilderness. At Presque Isle, anticipating the. wants of his family, he purchased twenty pounds of flour. In crossing Elk creek, on the ice, he disabled his horse, left him in the snow, and mounting his flour on his own back, pur- sued his way, filled with gloomy forebodings in relation to the fate of his family. On his arrival late one evening, his worst apprehensions were more than realized in a scene ago- nizing to the husband and father. Stretched on her cot lay the partner of his cares, who had followed him through all the dangers and hardships of the wilderness without repin- ing, pale and emaciated, reduced by meager famine to the last stages in which life can be supported, and near the mother, on a little pallet, were the remains of his youngest child, bom in his absence, who had just expired for the want of that nourishment which the mother, deprived of sustenance, was unable to give. Shut up by a gloomy wilderness, she OHIO. 127 was far distant alike from the aid or Sympathy of friends, filled with anxiety for an absent husband, suffering with want, and destitute of necessary assistance, and her children ex- piring around her with hunger. Such is the picture presented, by which the wives and daughters of the present day mr.y form some estimate of the hardships endured by the pioneers of this beautiful country. It appears that Judge Kingsbury, in order to supply the wants of his family, was under the necessity of transporting his provisions from Cleveland on a hand sled, and that himself and hired man drew a barrel of beef the whole distance at a single load. Mr. Kingsbury subsequently held several important judicial and legislative trusts, and until within a few years since, was living at Newburg, about four miles distant from Cleve- land. He was the first who thrust a sickle into the first wheat field planted on the soil of the Reserve. His wife was interred at Cleveland, about the year 1843. The fate of her child the Jirst white child born on the Reserve, starved to death for want of nourishment will not soon be forgotten. Vie to in Superior-street, Cleveland. The view shows the appearance of Superior-street looking westward. The Weddel House is seen on the right. The Railroad, (.'anal, and Cuyahogu liiver, all pass within a few rods westward of the torn 1 story building seeii at the head of the street. CLEVELAND, the capital of Cuyahoga county, on the south shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga liiver, is, next to Cincinnati, the most commercial city in the state, and with the exception of Chicago, Detroit and Buffalo, of all the lake cities. It has great natural facilities for trade, and is connected with the interior and Ohio River by the Ohio Canal and several railroads. The various railroads terminating here are, the Cleveland and Toledo, Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati, Cleveland and Mahoning, Cleve- land arid Pittflburg, Cleveland and Erie, and Cleveland, Zanesville and Cin- cinnati. It has a good harbor, which has been improved by piers extending into the lake. It is situated 135 miles E.N.E. from Columbus, 255 from Cincinnati, 130 from Pittsburg, 130 from Detroit, 183 from Buffalo, and 455 from New York. The location of the city is beautiful, being on a gravelly 128 OHIO. plain elevated nearly 100 feet above the lake. The streets cross each other at right angles, and vary from 80 to 120 feet in width. Near the center is a handsome public square of 10 acres. The private residences are mostly of a superior order, and in almost every street are indications of wealth and taste. Euclid-street is an avenue of extraordinary width, running easterly from the city, and extending for two miles into the country. There is no single street in any city in the Union, which equals it in the combination of elegant private residences, with beautiful shrubbery and park like grounds. The unusual amount of trees and shrubbery in Cleveland has given it the appellation of "the Forest City:" it is a spot where "town and country ap- pear to have met and shaken hands." The city is lighted with gas, and also supplied with the very best of water from the lake. The manufactures of the city are extensive and important, consisting of steam engines and various kinds of machinery, mill irons, stoves, plows, carriages, cabinet ware, edge tools, copper smelting works, woolen goods, tanning and the manufacture of oils. The agricultural products of the interior of the state are forwarded here in large quantities, which are reshipped for eastern or European mar- kets. Ship and steamboat building is also carried on to a considerable ex- tent. The lumber trade is one of great prominence. The packing of beef and pork is largely carried on. The wholesale and jobbing business in the various mercantile departments is increasing daily. Cleveland has 2 medical colleges, one of which is the Western Reserve Medical College, the other is of the Homoeopathic school, a fine female sem- inary on Kinsman's-street, 2 Roman Catholic convents, and a variety of be- nevolent institutions. Ohio City, on the west side of the city, formerly a separate corporation, is now comprised in Cleveland. Population, in 1796, 3; 1798, 16; 1825, 500; 1840, 6,071; 1850,17.034; and in I860, it was 43,550. As early as 17;35, there was a French station within the present limits of Cuya- hoga county, that in which Cleveland is situated. On Lewis Evans' map of the middle British colonies, published that year, there is marked upon the west bank of the Cuyahoga, the words, " French house," which was doubtless the station of a French trader. The ruins of a. house sap- posed to be those of the one alluded to, have been discovered on Foot's farm, in Brooklyn township, about five miles from the mouth of the Cuyahoga. The small engraving an- nexed, is from the map of Evans, and delineates the geography as in the original. In 1786, the Moravian missionary Zeisherger, with his Indian converts, left Detroit, and arrived at the mouth of the Cuyahoga, in a vessel called the Mackinaw. From thenco, they f rccccdod up the river about ten miles from the site of Cleveland, and settle. 1 in :.n abandoned village of the Ottawa?, within the present limits of indepeadenee, which they called Pilgerrnh, i. e. Pilgrim's rest. Their stay was brief, for in the April following, they left for Huron Kiver, and settled near the site of Milan, Erie count}', at a locality they named New Salem. The British, who, after the revolutionary war, refused to yield possession of the lake country west of the Cuyahoga, occupied to its shores until 1790. Their tnv- OHIO. 129 rfers had a house in Ohio City, north of the Detroit road, on the point of the hill, near the river, when the surveyors first arrived here in 1796. From an early day, Washington, Jefferson and other leading Virginia statesmen regarded the mouth of the Cuyahoga as an important commercial position. The city was originally comprised in lands purchased by the Connecticut Land Company," and formed a portion of what is termed the Western Reserve. This company was organized in 1795, and in the month of May following, it commis- sioned Gen. Moses Cleveland to superintend the survey of their lands, with a staff of forty-eight assistants. On July 22, 1796, Gen. Cleveland, accompanied by Agus- tus Porter, the principal of the surveying department, and several others, entered the mouth of the Cuyahoga from the lake, but as they were engaged in making a traverse, they continued their progress to Sandusky Bay. In the interim, Job P. Stiles and his wife and Joseph Tinker arrived in a boat with provisions, and were employed in constructing a house about half way from the top of the bank to the* shore of the river, a short distance north of Main (Superior) street. On the re- turn of the party from Sandusky, they surveyed and made a plat of the present city of Cleveland. , The first building erected in Cleveland, is supposed to have been in 1786, by Col. James Hillman, of Youngstown, Mahoning county, who was engaged in conveying flour and bacon from Pittsburg to the mouth of the Cuyahoga, for the use of the Kritish army in the upper lakes. He visited the site of Cleveland six times, and on one occasion caused a small cabin to be erected "near a spring in the hill side, within a short distance of what is now the western termination of Superior-street" It is probable that Stiles and Tinker availed themselves of this site, and possibly it furnished a part of the materials to erect their hut. In the winter of ] 796-7, the population consisted of three inhabitants. Early in the spring of 1797, James Kingsbury and family, from New England, and Elijah Gunn removed to Cleveland. The next families who came here were those of Maj. Carter and l5zekiol Hawley, from Kirtland, the family of the major being accom- panied by Miss Cloe Inches. In the spring of the following year (1798), Maj. Car- ser sowed two acres of corn on the west side of Water-street. He was the first person who erected a frame building in the city, which he completed in 1802. On the 1st of July, 1797, William Clement was married to Cloe Inches. The ceremony of this first marriage was performed by Seth Hart, who was regarded by the sur- veying party as their chaplain. In 1 799, Rodolphus Edwards and Nathaniel Doane with their families, emigrated from Chatham, Conn., to Cleveland, being ninety-two days on their journey. In the autumn of this year, the whole colony, without ex- ception, were afflicted with the fever and ague. The following historical items were taken from the Traveler, and pub- lished in the Cleveland Weekly Herald, Jan. 5, 1859: The first city school was held in Maj. Carter's house in 1802, and the children were taught by Anna Spafford. The first postoffice was established here in 1804, when letters were received and transmitted every seven days. In the same year the first militia training occurred. The place of rendezvous was Doane's corner, and the muster amounted to about fifty men. In 1805, the harbor was' made a port of entry, and classed within the Erie district. In the same year the territory on the west side of the Cuyahoga was ceded to the states by treaty. In 1809, Joel Thorpe and Amos Simpson each built a boat at Newberg, of six or seven tuns, and conveyed them in wagons to the harbor, where they were launched. The first judicial trial took place in 1812. It was held in the open air, beneath the shade of a cherry tree, which then stood at the corner of Water and Superior-streets : it being a charge of murder against an Indian, called John O'Mic, who was convicted find executed. A court house was erected this year on the public square, opposite the place where the stone church now stands. It was an unique structure; dun- geons were excavated underneath fora city jail. In 1815, Cleveland was incor- E orated with a village charter, and Alfred Kelley was the first president. Mr. [olley was the first attorney in Cleveland. The first brick house in the city was that of J. R. and J. Kelley, in 1814, in Superior-street. This edifice was soon suc- ceeded bv another, built by Alfred Kelley, still standing in Water-street. In 1816 9 130 OHIO. the first bank was established in the city, under the title of the " Commercial Bank of Lake Erie." The number of vessels enrolled as hailing this year from Cleve- land was but seven, and their aggregate burden 430 tuns. In 1817, the first church was organized, which was the Episcopal church of Trinity. On July 31, 1818, the first newspaper, "jf'Ae Cleveland Gazette and Commercial Register" was issued. On the 1st of Sept., the same year, steamed in the " Walk-in-the- Water," the first steamboat which entered the harbor. It was commanded by Capt. Fish, hailed from Buffalo, and was on its way to Detroit. In 1819. Mr. Barber built a log hut on the west side of the harbor, and may be considered as the first permanent settler in Ohio City. The first Presbyterian church was organized in 1820, and the stone church was erected on the public square in 1834. In 1821, the first Sunday school was established in Cleveland, which was attended by twenty scholars. In 1825, an appropriation of $5,000 was * made by the government for the improvement of the harbor, and during this year the first steamboat was built here, and the Ohio Canal commenced. In 1827, the Cuyahoga Furnace Company commenced their manufactory, being the first iron works erected in the city. In 1830, the light house was built at the termination of Water-street, the lantern of which is 135 feet above the water level. In 1832, the Ohio Canal_was completed. It had occupied seven years in its construction, is 307 miles in length, and cost $5,000,001). In 1836, Cleveland was incorporated a city: the first mayor was John Willey. In 1840, the population had increased to 6,071 ; in 1845, to 12,206. In 1851, Feb. 231, the Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati Railroad Avas opened for travel, and on the same day, forty miles of the Cleveland and Pittsburg Railroad were likewise completed. Population, this year, 21.140. The United States Marine Hospital, on the banks of the lake, was completed in 1852; it was commenced in 1844. Kdxh-ru cii'ir <>f Toledo. The view riiowti the appearance of part uf Toledo, :is cei-n from tlie opposite* bank of the Manmec, t one of tin- K.-<, Thomas Davis, John Davis, James M'Clure, John M'Clure, Daniel Fen-ell, William Hamer, Solomon Hamer, Thomas Hamer, Abraham Glussmire, John Dorough, Win. Chenoweth, Jas. Morris, Wm. Newcom and George Newcom. In 1803, on the organization of the state government, Montgomery county was established. Dayton was made the seat of justice, at which time only five families resided in the town, the other settlers having gone on to farms in the vicinity, or removed to other parts of the country. The increase of the town was gradual, until the war of 1812, which made a thoroughfare for the troops and stores on their way to the frontier. Springfield, a beautiful city and capital of Clarke county, is situated on the National Road, on Mad River, 43 miles W. from Columbus, and 84 N. from Cincinnati. It has great water power, well improved by a variety of mills and manufacturing establishments. It is surrounded by a rich ar populous country. Several macadamized roads terminate here, and railroauv OHIO. 143 connect it with the principal towns in the state. Wittemberg College, un- der the patronage of the Lutheran Church, chartered in 1845, is a short dis- tance without the town, and is surrounded with spacious grounds. Popula- tion, 8,000. Springfield was laid out in 1803, by James Demint. The old Indian town, Piqua, the ancient Piqua of the Shawnees, and the birth-place of TECUMSEII, the celebrated Indian warrior, was situated on the N. side of Mad River, about five miles W. from Springfield. Xenia, the county seat of Green, is a well built town on the Little Miami Railroad, 64 miles north of Cincinnati, in a rich country. The town was laid off in 1803, by Joseph C. Vance. The name, Xenia, is said to be au old French word, signifying a New Year's gift. Wilberforce University is three and a half miles north-east of Xenia, an institution under the care of the Methodist Episcopal Church North, for the special purpose of educating colored youth of both sexes. Population about 5,000. About three miles north, on the Little Miami, is the site of the Shawnee town, Old Chillicothe. It was a place of note in the early history cf the country, and a point to which Daniel Boone, with 27 other Kentuckians, were brought prisoners in 1778. Antioch College is at Yellow Springs, 9 miles north of Xenia. It is an institution of considerable celebrity, the one over which the late Horace Mann presided, with so much reputation to himself and benefit to his pupils. First Court House in Greene county. The engraving is a correct representation of the first court house in Greene. It was erected five and a half miles north of the site of Xenia, near the Dayton road. It was built by Gen. Bi-nj. Whiteman, as a residence for Peter Borders. The first court for the trial of causes was held in it, in August, 1803, Francis Dnnlnvy, presiding judge. A grand jury of inquest were sworn " for the body of Greene county." After receiving the charge, "they retired out of court" a cir- cumstance not to be wondered at, as there was but one room in the house. Their place of retirement, or jury room, was a little squat shaped pole hut, shown on the right of the view. But it appears there was nothing for them to do. "But they wore not permitted to remain idle long: the spectators in attendance promptly took the intittcr into consideration. They, doubtless, thought it a great 144 OHIO. pity to have a learned court and nothing for it to do; so they set to and cut out employment for their honors by engaging in divers hard fights at fisticuffs, right on the ground. So it seems our pioneers fought for the benefit of the court. At all events, while their honors were waiting to settle differences according to law, they were making up issues and settling them by trial " l>y combat" a process by which they avoided the much complained of "laws' delay," and incurred no other damages than black eyes and bloody noses, which were regarded as mere trifles, of course. Among the incidents of the day, characteristic of the times, was this : A Mr. , of Warren county, was in attendance. Owen Davis, the owner of a mill near by, and a brave Indian fighter, as well as a kind-hearted, obliging man, charged this Warren county man with speculatiny in pork, alias stealing his neighbor's hogs. The insult was resented a combat took place forthwith," in which Davis proved victorious. He then went into court, and planting himself in front of the judges, he" observed, addressing himself particularly to one of them, ' Well, Ben, I've whipped that hog thief- what's the damage what's to pay ? and, thereupon, suiting the action to the word, he drew out his buckskin purse, contain- ing 8 or 10 dollars, and slammed it down on the table then shaking his fist at the judge whom he addressed, he continued, ' Yes, Ben, and if you'd steal a hog, yon, I'd whip you too.' He had, doubtless, come to the conclusion, that, as there was a court, the luxury of fighting could not be indulged in gratis, and he was for paying up as he went. Seventeen witnesses were sworn and sent before the grand jury, and nine bills of indictment were found the same day all for affrays and assaults and batteries committed after the court was organized. To these indict- ments the parties all pleaded guilty, and were fined Davis among the rest, who was fined eight dollars for his share in the transactions of the day." Greenville, the capital of Darke county, on the Greenville and Miami Railroad, is about 121 miles W. from Columbus. It contains some 1,500 inhabitants. In 1793, Gen. Wayne built Fort Greenville on the site of the present town, and here the treaty of Greenville was concluded, between Gen. Wayne and the Indians. Gen. St. Clair, at the head of 1,400 men, was de- feated by the Indians in the north-west corner of Darke county, upward of 20 miles from Greenville, Nov. 4, 1791. The great object of St. Glair's campaign was to establish a line of military posts between Fort Washington (Cincinnati), and the junction of St. Mary and St. Joseph Rivers, now Fort Wayne. The description of the battle is from Monette's history: On the 3d of November, the army encamped in a wooded plain, among the sources of a Wabash tributary, upon the banks of several small creeks, about fifty miles south of the Miami towns. The winter had already commenced, and the ground was covered with snow three inches deep. Next morning, Nov. 4th, just before sunrise, and immediately after the troops had been dismissed from parade, the Indians made a furious attack upon the mili- tia, whose camp was about a quarter of a mile in advance of the main camp of the regular troops. The militia immediately gave way, and fled with great pre- cipitation and disorde' , with the Indians in close pursuit; and, rushing through the camp, they threw the battalions of Majors Butler and Clark into confusion. The utmost exertions of those officers failed to restore complete order. The Indians, pressing close upon the militia, immediately engaged Butler's command with great intrepidity and fury. The attack soon became general both in the front and second lines, but the weight of the enemy's fire was directed against the center of each line, where the artillery was stationed. Such was the intensity of the enemy's fire, that the men were repeatedly driven from their guns with great loss. Confusion was spreading among the troops, from the great numbers who were constantly fall- ing, while no impression was made by their fire upon the enemy. " At length re- sort was had to the bayonet. Col. Darke was ordered to charge with part of the second line, and endeavor to turn the left flank of the enemy. This order was ex- ecuted with great spirit. The Indians instantly gave way, and were driven back three or four hundred yards; but, for want of a sufficient number of riflemen to pursue this advantage, the} 7 soon rallied, and the troops were obliged in turn to OHIO. 145 fall back. At this moment, the Indians had entered our camp by the left flank, having driven back the troops that were posted there. Another charge was made here by the second regiment, Rutler's and Clark's battalions, with equal effect, and it was repeated several times, and always with success; but in each charge several men were lost, and particularly the officers; which, with raw troops, was a loss altogether irremedia- ble." In the last charge Major Butler was dan- gerously wounded, and every officer of the second regiment fell except three. The ar- tillery being now si- lenced, and all the of- ficers killed except Capt Ford, who was severely wounded, and more than half the army having fallen, it became necessary to make a retreat, if pos- sible. This was im- mediately done, while Major Clark protected the rear with his bat- talion. The retreat was precipitous : it was a perfect flight. The camp and artillery was abandoned; not a horse Avas alive to draw the cannon. The men, in their flight and conster- nation, threw away their arms and accouterments after pursuit had ceased, and the road was strewed with them for more than four miles. The rout continued to Fort Jefferson, twenty-nine miles. The action began half an hour before sunrise, the retreat commenced at half past nine o'clock, and the remnant of the army reached Fort Jefferson just after sunset The savages continued the pursuit for four miles, when, fortunately, they returned to the scene of action for scalps and plunder. In this most disastrous battle, thirty-eight commissioned officers were killed on the field. Six hundred non-commissioned officers and privates were either killed or missing. Among the wounded were twenty-one commissioned officers, and two hundred and forty-two non-commissioned officers and privates. Many of the wounded died subsequently of their wounds. The Indian loss did not exceed sixty warriors killed. The grand error in this campaign was the impolicy of urging forward on a dan- gerous service, far into the Indian country, an army of raw troops, who were un- willing to enter upon the campaign, as was fully evinced by frequent desertions as they approached the hostile towns. The army was fatally reduced by the detach- ment sent to overtake the deserters from the Kentucky militia; and Gen. St. Clair PLAN or ST. GLAIR'S BATTLE FIELD.* * References. A High ground, on which the militia were encamped at the commence- ment of the action. B C Encampment of the main army. D Retreat of the militia at the beginning of the battle. E St. Glair's trace, on which the defeated array retreated. F Place where Gen. Butler and other officers were buried. G Trail to Girty's Town, on the River St. Marys, at what is now the village of St. Marys. H Site of Fort Recovery, built by Wayne ; the line of Darke and Mercer runs within a few rods of the site of the fort. I Place where a brasa cannon was found buried, in 1830 ; it is on the bottom where the Indians were three times driven to the high land with the bayonet. 10 146 OHIO. himself was quite infirm, and often unable to attend to his duties as commander- in-chief. On the fatal day of his defeat, he was scarcely able to bo mounted upon his horse, either from physical infirmity or culpable intemperance.* The Indians engaged in this terrible battle comprised about nine hundred war- riors. Among them were about four hundred Slia\vnese, commanded by Blue Jacket, and chiefly from the waters of the Wabash. The remainder were com- manded by Little Turtle, Buckongahelas, consisting of Delawares, Wyandots, Pota- watamies, and Mingoes. The Delawares alone numbered nearly four hundred war- riors, who fought with great fury. On the ground, during the battle, were seen several British officers in full uniform from Detroit, who had come to witness the strife which they had instigated. Simon Girty commanded a party of Wyandots. Among the camp-followers in this campaign were nearly two hundred and fifty women, of whom fifty-six were killed during the carnage; the remainder were chiefly captured the Indians. Wayne's troops subsequently built a fort, called Fort Recovery, on the sito of the battle ground. In the summer of 1794, a second battle was fought under the walls of the fort, between 140 Americans, under Major McMahon, and a party of Indians, led on by British officers. McMahon and 22 others 'were killed, but the survivors gained the fort, which the enemy also attacked but were driven off with severe loss. Within Ohio, beside those already noticed are a large number of city- like towns, most of which are on the lines of railroads, are capitals of their respective counties, have numerous churches, literary institutions, manufac- tories, and varied branches of industry some are lighted with gas, have *St. Clair was an unfortunate officer in the Revolution, but still retained the confidence and friendship of Washington. In Rush's " Washington in Domestic Life," is an account of the interview between Mr. Tobias Lear, his private secretary, and Washington, imme- diately after the reception by the latter of the news of St. Glair's defeat: " The general now walked backward and forward slowly for some minutes without speak- ing. Then he sat down on a sofa by the fire, telling Mr. Lear to sit down. To this moment there had been no change in his manner since his interruption at table. Mr. Lear now per- ceived emotion. This rising in him, he broke out suddenly, ' It's all over St. Glair's de- feated routed; the officers nearly all killed, the men by wholesale; the rout complete too shocking to think of and a surprise in the bargain 1 ' He uttered all this with great vehemence. Then he paused, got up from the sofa and walked about the room several times, agitated but saying nothing. Near the door he stopped short, and stood still a few seconds, when his wrath became terrible. ' Yes,' he burst forth, ' here on this very spot, I took leave of him ; I wished him success and honor; you have your instructions, I said, from the secretary of war, I had a strict eyo to them, and will add but one word beware of a surprise. I repeat it, BEWARK OF A SUR- PRISE you know how the Indians fight us. He went off with that as my last solemn warn- ing thrown into his ears. And yetl to suffer that ariny to bo cut to pieces, hack'd, butch- ered, tomahaw'd by a surprise the very thing I guarded him against) ! Oh, God, oh, God, he's worse than a murderer! how can he answer it to his country: the blood of the slain is upon him the curse of widows and orphans the curse of Heaven? ' This torrent came out in tones appalling. His very frame shook. It was awful, said Mr. Lear. More than once he threw his hands up as he hurled imprecations upon St. Glair. Mr. Lear remained speechless, awed into breathless silence. Washington sat down on the sofa once more. He seemed conscious of his passion, and uncomfortable. He was silent. His warmth beginning to subside, he at length said in an altered voice : 'This must not go beyond this room.' Another pause followed a longer one when he said, in a tone quite low, ' General St. Glair shall have justice ; I looked hastily through the dispatches, saw the whole disaster, but not all the particulars ; I will receive him without displeasure; I will hear him without prejudice ; he shall have full jus- tice.' He was now, said Mr. Lear, perfectly calm. Half an hour had gone by. The storm was over; and no sign of it was afterward seen in his conduct, or heard in his conversation. The result is known. The whole case was investigated by congress. St. Clair was excul- pated and regained the confidence Washington had in him when appointing him to that command. He had put himself into the thickest of the fight und escaped unhurt, though co ill as to be carried on a litter, and unable to mount his horse without help." OHIO. 147 fire companies, and are, indeed, small cities. We mention the more promi- nent, giving their populations, according to the census of 1860. Mount Vernon City, Knox county. Population 4,147. Five miles east of it, is Grambier, the seat of Kenyon College, founded in 1827, and named after Lord Kenyon, one of its principal benefactors. Mansfield City, Richland county, a manufacturing town, a great railroad center, with 11 churches, 70 stores, six manufactories, and a population of 4,540. Wooster, Wayne county, has 60 stores, 10 churches, and in 1858, 4,837 inhabitants. Canton, Stark county, has 4,042 people. Massillon, in the same county, has a population of 3,680. Youngstown, in Mahoning county has 2,758 inhabitants. All of the above are in the northern section . of the state, in the richest WHEAT counties of Ohio. Akron, Summit county, had lOOstores of various kinds, and 7,000 inhab- itants. It is on the summit level of the Ohio canal, and has abundance of water power from the canal and Cuyahoga River, which is employed in a variety of manufactures. The manufacturing village of Cuyahoga Falls, is six miles north-east of Akron : the river falls there, in the space of two and a half miles, more than 200 feet. Western Reserve College is at Hudson, eight and a half miles northerly from the last. Norwalk, Huron county, has 2,867 inhabitants. -E/yn'a,Lorain county, has 1,615 inhabitants, Oberlin in the same county, 2,012 inhabitants: the collegiate institute at Oberlin is a flourishing institution, numbering several hundred pupils of both sexes.* Warren, Trumbull county, has 2,402 inhabitants. Ravenna, Portage county, has 36 stores, and a population of 1,797. Painesville, Lake county, has 2,615 inhabitants. Aslitubula, in Ashtabula county, 1,427 inhabitants. The above are on the WESTERN RESERVE. Tiffin, Seneca county, is the seat of Heidelberg College, and a theological seminary of the German Reformed Church. It has 12 churches and 4,010 inhabitants. Bucyrus, Crawford county, has 40 stores and 2,210 inhabitants. Delaware, Delaware county, has 14 churches and 3,895 inhabitants. It is the seat of the Ohio Wesleyan University and two female colleges. Belle- fontaine, Logan county, has 2,600 inhabitants. Sidney, Shelby county, has 2,055 inhabitants. Urbana, Champaign county, the seat of Urbana Univer- sity and a female seminary, has a population of 3,429. Piqua, Miami county, has 40 stores, numerous manufactories, mechanic shops, and 4,620 inhabitants. Troy, in the same county, has 2,640 inhabitants. Lima, in Allen * Many of the pupils at Oberlin, male and female, are of African origin, and mingle on terras of social equality with the others. This singularity is in accordance with the an- nexed published synopsis of the institution: 1. To educate youths of both sexes, so as to secure the development of a strong mind in a .sound body, connected with a permanent, vigorous, progressive piety all to be aided by a judicious system of manual labor. 2. To beget and to confirm in the process of education the habit of self-denial, patient endurance, a chastened moral courage, and a devout consecration of the whole being to God, in seeking the best good of man. 3. To establish universal liberty by the abolition of every form of sin. 4. To avoid the debasing association of the heathen classics, and make the bible a text- book in all the departments of education. 5. To raise up a church and ministers who shall be known and read of all men in deep sympathy with Christ, in holy living, and in efficient action against all which God forbids. 6. To furnish a seminary, affording thorough instruction in all the branches of an edu- cation for both sexes, and in which colored persons, of both sexes, shall be freely admitted, and on the terms of equality and brotherhood. 148 OHI - county, has 2079 inhabitants. All of the above are in the north-western quarter of the state, north of the national road and west of Columbus. Lebanon, Warren county, has 2,498 inhabitants. .Eaton, Preble county, and Germantown, Montgomery county, have each about 1,500 inhabitants, as also have 'Wilmington, Hillsboro 1 and Greenfield. Ripley, on the Ohio River in Brown county, has 2,715 inhabitants. The above are all in the south-western quarter of Ohio. Lancaster, Fairfield county, has 4,320 inhabitants. Logan, Hocking county, M ' Connelhville, in Morgan, Wellsville, in Columbiana, New Lisbon, in Columbiana, and Cambridge, in Guernsey county, have each about 1500 inhabitants. Pomeroy, on the Ohio River, in Meigs county, is in the midst of the great coal producing region of the state, to which it owes its impor- tance ; its population is 6,480. Ironton, on the Ohio River, in Lawrence county has 3,700 inhabitants. This town was laid out in 1849, by the Ohio Iron and Coal Company, and derives its importance from the iron business, the principal furnaces of the Ohio iron district being in its vicinity. All of the above, excepting Wellsville and New Lisbon, are in the south-eastern quarter of Ohio. Beside the above, Ohio contains many villages ranging from 1,000 to 2,000 inhabitants. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC. Tecumseh, the renowned warrior and chieftain of the Shawnees, was born about the year 1768, at the Indian town of Piqua, situated on the north side __=; _, - ..... ===. of Mad River, some five miles west of the site of Springfield, Clarke county. He early showed a passion for war, and at 17 years evinced signal prowess in the capture of some boats on the Ohio ; but when his party burned a prisoner, he was struck with horror, and by his eloquence SITE OP PIQUA. persuaded them never to be An Indian village and the birth-place of Tecnm 8e h. Qf & 1795, he became a chief, and soon rose to distinction among his people. In 1805, Tecumseh and hia brother Laulewasikaw, the prophet, established themselves at Greenville and gained a great influence over the Jndians, through the pretended sorcery of the latter. Shortly after the great project of Tecumseh was formed of a confederacy of all the western tribes against the whites. In this he was backed, it is supposed, by the insiduous influence of British agents, who presented the Indians with ammunition, in anticipation, perhaps, of hostilities be- tween the two countries, in which event the union of all the tribes against the Americans was desirable. The battle of Tippecanoe, fought Nov. 7, 1811, with the brother of Tecumseh, in which the prophet was defeated, for a time annihilated the hopes of the brothers. Tecumseh was hot in this battle. In the war which soon after ensued with Eng- land, Tecumseh was the ally of King George, and held the rank of brigadier- general, having, under his command, about 2,000 Indians. He was present at several engagements, and was eventually killed in the battle of Moravian towns, in Canada, near Detroit, Oct. 5, 1813. " Thus fell the Indian warrior Tecumseh, in the 44th year of his age. He was five feet ten inches high, and with more than usual stoutness, possessed all the agility and perse- OHIO. 149 verance of tho Indian character. His carriage was dignified, his eye penetrating, hia countenance, which even in death, betrayed the indications of a lofty spirit, rather of the sterner cast. Had he not possessed a certain austerity of manners, he could never have controlled the wayward passions of those who followed him to battle. He was of a silent habit ; but when his eloquence became roused into action by the reiterated encroachment of the Americans, his strong intellect could, supply him with a flow of oratory that enabled him, as he governed in the rield, so to prescribe in the council." " William Henry Harrison was born in Charles county, Virginia, Feb. 9, 1773 ; was educated at Hauipden Sidney College, and afterward studied medicine. He received, from Washington, a military com- mission in 1791, and fought under Wayne in 1792. After the battle of Maumee Rapids, he was made captain, and placed in command of Fort Washington. In 1797, he was appointed secretary of the North-west Territory; and in 1799 and 1800, he was a delegate to congress. Being appointed governor of Indiana, he was also superintendent of Indian affairs, and negotiated thirteen treaties. He gained a great victory in the battle of Tippecanoe, Nov. 7,1811. In the war with Great Britain, he was com- mander of the North-west army, and was distinguished in the defense of Fort Meigs, and the victory of the Thames. From 1816 to 1819, he was a representa- tive in congress, from Ohio; and from 1825 to 1828, United States Senator. In 1828, he was minister to the Republic of Colombia; and on his return he resided upon his farm, at North Bend, Ohio. In 1840, he was elected president of the United States, by 234 votes out of 294, and inaugurated March 4, 1841. He died in the presidential mansion, April 4, 1841." In traveling through the west, one often meets with scenes that remind him of another land. The foreigner who makes his home upon American soil, does not at orice assimilate in language, modes of life, and current of thought with those congenial to his adopted coun- try. The German emigrant ia peculiar in this respect, and so much attached is he to his fatherland, that years often elapse ere there is any percepti- ble change. The annexed en- graving, from Howe's Ohio, il- lustrates these remarks,: "It shows the mud cottage of a German Swiss emigrant, now standing in the neighborhood of others of like character, in the north-western part of Co- luuibiana county, Ohio. The frame work is of wood, with the interstices filled with light colored clay, and the whole surmounted by a ponderous shingled roof, of a picturesque form. Beside the tenement, hop vines are clustering around their slender support- ers, while hard by stands the abandoned log dwelling of the emigrant de- serted for one more congenial with his early predilections." Return Jonathan Meigs * was born in Middletown, Connecticut, in 1740. He Swiss I^IIGKAXT'S COTTAGE. * Lossing gives this pleasant anecdote of the origin of his name, RETURN. "A bright-eyed Connecticut girl was disposed to coquette with her lover, Jonathan Meigs ; and on one oc- 150 was a colonel in the army of the revofution, and saw much service. He was with Arnold at Quebec, was one of the first to mount the parapet at the storming of Stony Point, and received an elegant sword and a vote of thanks for a gallant ex- ploit at Sagg Harbor, where, with 70 of his "Leather Cap Battalion," composed of Connecticut men, he stormed a British post, and carried off nearly a hundred pris- oners. After the war he became a surveyor for the Ohio Land Company, and was one of the first settlers of Marietta. He drew up a system of laws for the first emi- grants, which were posted on a large oak near the mouth of the Muskingum. He was appointed a judge by Gen. St Clair, and in 1801 Indian agent by Jefferson among the Cherokees, among whom he continued to reside until his death, in 1823, at the age of 83 years. The Indians loved and revered him as a father. His son, Return Jonathan Meigs, represented Ohio in the United States Senate, from 1808 to 1810; was governor of the state from 1810 to 1814, and post-master-general of the United States from 1814 to 1823. He died at Marietta in 1825. Rvfus Putnam, who has been styled "the FATHER OP OHIO," was born at Sutton, Massachusetts, in 1738. He was distinguished in the war of the revolution, hold- ing the office of brigadier-general. From 1783 to 1787, he was busy organizing a company for emigrating to, and settling, the Ohio country. On the 7th of April, 1788, he landed with the first pioneer party at the mouth of the Muskingum, and there founded Marietta, the first settlement in Ohio. He was appointed surveyor- general of the United States by Washington, in 1796, was a member of the con- vention which formed the first Constitution of Ohio, and died in 1824. Gen. Duncan McArthur, was born of Scotch parentage, in Dutchess county, N. Y., in 1782, and at the age of 18 entered the army, and was in several Indian cam- paigns. By force of talent he rose, in 1808, to the post of major general of the state militia. At Hull's surrender he was second in command, but on his release as a prisoner of war, the democratic party, by an overwhelming majority, elected him to congress. On the resignation of Gen. Harrison, in 1814, he was in supreme command of the north-west arrny, and projected an expedition into Canada, where, at or near Malcolm's Mill, he defeated a body of Canadians. He was a represent- ative in congress again from 1823 to 1825; in 1830, was chosen governor of the state, and died a few years later. He was a strong-minded, energetic man, and possessed a will of iron. Gen. Nathaniel Massie was born in Virginia, in 1763, and was bred a surveyor. In 1791, he made the first settlement within the Virginia Military District, the fourth in Ohio, and the only one between the Scioto and Little Miami, until after the treaty of Greenville in 1795. This was at Manchester, on the Ohio, opposite Maysville, Ky. His business, for years, was the surveying of lands in the military district His payments were liberal, as he received in many cases one half of the land for making the locations; yet the risk was immense, for, during the Indian hostilities, every creek that was explored and every line that was run, was done by stealth and at the risk of life from the lurking Indians, from whom he had sev- eral narrow escapes. After the defeat of the Indians by Wayne, the surveyors were not interrupted by the Indians ; but on one of their excursions, still remembered as " the starving tour" the whole party, consisting '-r ?S men, suffered extremely in a driving snow storm for about four days. They a?ie in a wilderness, exposed to this severe storm, without hut, tent, or covering, and what was still more appalling, without provision, and without any road or even track to retreat on, and were nearly 100 miles from any place of shelter. On the third day of the storm, they luckily killed casion, when ho had pressed his suit with great earnestness, and asked for a positive an- swer, she feigned coolness, and would give nim no satisfaction. The lover resolved to be trifled with no longer, and bade her farewell, forever. She perceived her error, but he was allowed to go far down the lane before her pride would yield to the more tender emotions of her heart. Then she ran to the gate and cried, "Return, Jonathan 1 Return, Jonathan!" He did return, they were joined in wedlock, and in commemoration of these happy words of the sorrowing girl, they named their first child, Return Jonathan afterward a hero in our war for independence, a noble western pioneer, and a devoted frinnd of the Cheroiees " OHIO. 151 GKAVB OF SIMON KE.NTON. two wild turkeys, which were boiled and divided into 28 parts, and devoured with great avidity, heads, feet, entrails and all. In 1796, Massie laid the foundation of the settlement of the Scioto valley, by lay- ing out on his own land the now large and beautiful town of (Jhillicothe. The progress of the* settlements brought large quantities of his land into market. Gen. Massie was a member of the convention which formed the first state consti- tution. In 1807, he was a competitor with Return Jonathan Meigs for governor, they being the two most popular men in Ohio. Meigs was elected by a slight majority. Massie contested the election, Meigs having lost his residence by absence. The legislature decided in Massie's favor, whereupon he magnanimously resigned. In 1813, this noble pioneer was gathered to his fathers. Simon Kenton, a native of Culpeppcr county, Virginia, and one of the bravest and noblest of western pioneers, and the friend of Daniel Boone, resided in the latter part of his life, on the head waters of Mad River, about five miles north of Bellefontaine, in Logan county. His dwelling was the small log house shown on the extreme right of the annexed view. There he died, in 183G, at the advanced age of 81 years. When 16 years of age, he had an affray with a young man who Lad married his lady love. Supposing, erroneously, that he had killed his rival, he fied to the wilderness of Kentucky. This was in the year 1771. From that time, during the whole of the revolution- ary war, down to the treaty of Greenville, in 1795, he was probably in more expeditions against the Indians, encountered greater peril, performed more heroic feats, and had more narrow escapes from death, than any man of his time. In 1778, he was captured by the Indians, compelled to run the gauntlet, and then condemned to be burnt at the stake. He was saved by the interposition of Simon. Girty, a renegade white, who had known Kenton in Dunmore's campaign. Shortly after he was again sentenced to death, and a second time was saved by a Canadian Frenchman, who prevailed upon the Indians to send him" to the British at Detroit From thence he finally escaped, and again engaged in Indian warfare. In 1782, hearing he had not killed his rival in love, he returned to Virginia, in order to remove his father's family to his new home in Kentucky. Notwithstand- ing the great services he had rendered his country, on account of some defect in his land titles, he lost his property, aod was imprisoned twelve months for debt, on the very spot where he had built bis cabin in 1775. In 1802, he settled in Urbana, Ohio, where he remained some years, and was elected brigadier general of militia. He was in the war of 1812, under Harrison, at the battle of Moravian town, whore he displayed his usual intrepidity. About the year 1820, he removed to the head of Mad River. At the time of his death the frosts of more than 80 winters had fallen on his head without entirely whitening his locks. His biographer thus de- scribes his personal appearance and character: " General Kenton was of fair complexion, six feet one inch in hight. He stood and waJked very erect; and, in the prime of life, weighed about one hundred and ninety pounds. He never was inclined to be corpulent, although of sufficient full, ness to form a graceful person. He had a soft, tremulous voice, very pleasing to 152 OHIO. the hearer. He had laughing gray eyes, which seemed to fascinate the beholder. He was a pleasant, good-humored and obliging companion. When excited, or pro- voked to anger (which was seldom the case), the fiery glance of his eye would al- most curdle the blood of those with whom he came in contact. His rage, when roused, was a tornado. In his dealing, he was perfectly honest; his confidence in man, and his credulity, were such, that the same man might cheat him twenty times; and if he professed friendship, he might cheat him still" Jacob Burnet was born in Newark, N. J., in 1770, educated at Princeton, and in 1796 admitted to the bar. He then emigrated to Cincinnati, and commenced the practice of his profession. Until the formation of the constitution of Ohio, in 1802, he attended court regularly at Cincinnati, Marietta and Detroit, the last of which was then the seat of justice for Wayne county. The jaunts between these remote places were attended with exposure, fatigue, and hazard, and were usually performed on horseback, in parties of two or more, through a wilderness country. At that period the whole white population between Pennsylvania and the Missis- sippi, the Ohio and the lakes, was only about 5,000 souls. Mr. Burnet at once rose to the front rank in his profession. He was appointed, in 1799, a member of the lirst territorial legislature of the North-West Territory; and the first code of laws were almost wholly framed by him. In 1821, he became one of the judges of the supreme court of Ohio; and in 1828, was elected to the national senate, as suc- cessor of Gen. Harrison. Nearly his entire life was passed in positions of honor and responsibility. On the recommendation of Lafayette, he Avas elected a mem- ber of the French Academy of Sciences. His Notes upon the North-West Terri- tory are among the most valuable contributions to the history of the west extant Judge Burnet died in 1853, aged 83 years. BRADY'S LEAP. It was across the Cuyahoga River, in northern Ohio, near the site of Franklin Mills, and a few miles east ot the village of Cuyahoga Falls, that the noted Capt. Sum'l Brady made his famous leap for life, about the year 1780, when pursued by a party of Indians. Brady was the Daniel Boone of the north-east part of the valley of the Ohio, which is full of traditions of his hard}' adven- tures and hairbreadth escapes. Bra- dy's Pond is the spot where Brady concealed himself after his leap, the circumstances of which we quote be- low. It is a small, beautiful sheet of water, two and a half miles from the village, a little north of the Ravcuna road : " Having in peaceable times often hunted over this ground with the In- dians, and knowing every turn of the Cuyahoga as familiarly as the villager knows the streets of his own hamlet, Brady directed his course to the river, at a spot where the whole stream is compressed, by the rocky cliffs, into a narrow channel of only 22 feet across the top of the chasm, although it is considerably wider beneath, near the water, and in highth more than twice that number of feet above the current. Through this pass the water rushes like a race horse, chafing and roaring at the confinement of its current by the rocky channel, while, a short distance above, the steam is at least fifty yards wide. As he approached the chasm, Brady, knowing that life or death was in the effort, concentrated his mighty powers, and leaped the stream at a single bound. It so happened, that on the opposite cliff, the leap was favored by a low place, into which he dropped, and grasping the bushes, he thus helped himself to ascend to the top of the cliff". The Indians, for a few moments, were lost in wonder and admiration, and before they had recovered their recol- lection, he was half way up the side of the opposite hill, but still within reach of their rifles. They could easily have shot him at any moment before, but being bent on taking him alive for torture, and to glut their long delayed revenge, they forbore to use the riile; but now seeing him likely to escape, thev nil fired upon him: one bullet severely wounded BUADV'S POND. OHIO. 153 him in the hip, but not so badly as to prevent his progress. The Indians having to make a considerable circuit before they could cross the stream, Brady advanced a good distance ahead. His limb was growing stiff' from the wound, and as the Indians gained on him, he made for the pond which now bears his name, and plunging in, swam under water a con- siderable distance, and came up under the trunk of a large oak, which had fallen into the pond. This, although leaving only a small breathing place to support life, still completely sheltered him from their sight. The Indians, tracing him by the blood to the water, made diligent search all round the pond, but finding no signs of his exit, finally came to the conclusion that he had sunk and was drowned. As they were at one time standing on the very tree, beneath which lie was concealed, Brady, understanding their language, was very glad to hear the result of their deliberations, and after they had gone, weary, lame, and hungry, he made good his retreat to his own home. His followers also returned in safety. The chasm across which he leaped is in sight of the bridge where we crossed the Cuyu- hoga, and is known in all that region by the name of ' Brady's Leap.' " In the center of the beautiful public square in Cleveland stands the statue of Oliver Hazard Perry, the " Hero of Lake Erie." It was inaugurated with great ceremony on the 10th of September, 1860, the an- niversary of his signal vic- tory. Among those pres- ent were the governor and legislature of Ehode Island, Perry's native state, soldiers of the last war, survivors of the battle of Lake Erie, military from Rhode Island, New York, Pennsylvania, and aliout 70,000 visitors from the surrounding coun- try. Among the ceremo- nies of the occasion was a mock battle on the lake in imitation of that which ter- minated in the victory of Perry. Hon. Geo. Bancroft was the orator of the day. The statue is of Carrara marble, standing upon a high pedestal of Illiode Island granite. The figure can not be better described than in the words of Mr. THK PERKY STATUE, AT CLEVELAND. Walcutt, the artist, after he had unvailed the statue: "It is the Commander bold and confident giving directions to his men, while watching through the smoke of battle the effect of his broadsides on the enemy. Figuratively, it is the impersonation of the triumphant hero, gazing with pride and enthusiasm over the beautiful land he saved by his valor, and pointing to the lake as if reminding us of the scene of his victory." The drapery represents the official dress of a commodore in the United States navy. On the front of the pedestal is an alto-relievo, representing the incident of Perry's passage from the Lawrence to the Niagara, with an inscription recording the date of the engagement. On either side of the pedestal is a figure, representing a sailor-boy and mid- shipman. 154 OHIO. Arthur St. Glair, the first governor of the North-west Territory, was a native of Scotland. He was a lieutenant under Wolfe, and a major general in the Revo- lution; subsequently was a delegate to congress from Pennsylvania, and, in 1787, was chosen its president. While governor of the North-west Territory, from 1788 to 1802, he was much esteemed by the people, being easy and frank in his address, of great integrity and uprightness of purpose, and of extensive information. He had the respect and friendship of Washington. The great misfortune of his life was his sore defeat by the Indians, Nov. 4, 1791. He died in abject poverty, in 1818, in a cabin amojig the mountains of Pennsylvania. Col. Jared Mansfield was born in New Haven, Conn., in 1759. He was edu- cated at Yale College, and was subsequently professor of natural philosophy at West Point. He was appointed, by President Jefferson, surveyor general of the United States, upon which he introduced and perfected the present admirable sys- tem of dividing the public land, by north and south and east and west lines, into ranges, townships and sections. This simple plan has been of an untold benefit to the rapid and easy settlement of the west. He died in 1830. Ed. D. Mansfield, Esq., the commissioner of statistics for the state of Ohio, is his son. Charles Hammond was born in Maryland in 1779, and died in Cincinnati in 1840, where most of his life was passed. He was one of the most able of lawyers and as a journalist acquired a greater reputation than any man who ever resided in the west. For many years he edited the Cincinnati Gazette. Nathan Guilford, lawyer and journalist of Cincinnati, was born in Spencer, Mass., in 1786, and died in 1854. His memory is especially revered for his long and eminent services in laying the foundation of the common schools of Ohio " a state which has one third of a million of men capable of bearing arms, but keeps no standing army but her school teachers, of whom she pays more than, 20,000, which provides a library for every school district, and registers as students more than 600,000 children. These growing in beauty and strength in this land of the wheat, the corn and the vine, where the purity of domestic morals is main- tained by the virtue and dignity of woman, constitutes its present glory and ita future hope." INDIANA. INDIANA was originally included in the limits of "New France," and afterward in the " North-west Territory." Its territory was traversed by the French traders and Catholic mission- aries at an early period. According to some historians, Vincennes was occupied as a French military post in 1716, and as a missionary station as early as 1700. The first original settlers were, probably, mostly, or en- tirely, French soldiers from Canada, belonging to the army of Louis XIV. Their descendants remained an almost isolated community, increasing very slowly for nearly one hundred years, and in the mean time they imbibed a taste for savage life, from habits of intercourse with their Indian neigh- bors exclusively, with whom they often intermarried. In consequence of this fraternization with the In- dians, they became somewhat degenerated as a civilized community. By the treaty of peace between France and Great Britain in 1763, all the French possessions in this region were transferred to Great Britain, but the settlers still retained their original rights. During the revolutionary war, the French settlers displayed their hereditary animosity against the English. In 1778, a Spanish resident gave such information respecting the strength and position of the British force at Vincennes, that by his directions, Gen. Clark, of Virginia, easily obtained possession. By the treaty of 1783, the territory comprised in the limits of Indiana came into the possession of the United States. In the Indian war which succeeded the first settlement of what is now the state of Ohio, several military expeditions were sent into the present limits of Indiana. The first, in order of time, was that of Gen. Harmar, who marched, in the autumn of 1790, with a large body of troops from Fort Washington, at Cincinnati, against the Indian towns on the Maumee, on or near the site of Fort Wayne. The towns were destroyed, but detached par- ties of the army were defeated in two separate engagements. 155 ARMS OF INDIANA. 150 INDIANA. In May, of the next year, 750 Kentuckians, under Gen. Charles Scott, rendezvoused at the inouth of the Kentucky River, and, crossing the Ohio on the 23d, inarched northward with great rapidity. In about three weeks the expedition returned to Kentucky, without the loss of a man, after hav- ing surprised and destroyed several towns on the Wabash and Eel Rivers, killed 32 of the enemy in skirmishes, and taken 58 prisoners. In the succeeding August, Col. James Wilkinson left Fort Washington with 550 mounted Kentucky volunteers, to complete the work which had been so successfully begun by Gen. Scott, against the Indians on the Wabash and its tributaries. The expedition was successful. Several towns were de- stroyed, the corn was cut up and 34 prisoners taken. By the treaty of Greenville, in 1795, the United States obtained valuable tracts of land, for which they paid the Indians money and goods. Other tracts were obtained, afterward, in the same manner. But, notwithstanding this, a part of the Indians still remained hostile, and being excited by the eloquence of Tecumseh, the celebrated Shawnee warrior, several of the Indian tribes united in resistance to the progress of the whites at the west. Although by the ordinance of 1787, slavery was forever prohibited in the territory north-west of the Ohio, strong and repeated efforts were made to es- tablish the institution temporarily within the Indiana Territory. The first of these was made in 18023, through the instrumentality of a convention presided over by the territorial governor, William Henry Harrisouj which petitioned congress to temporarily suspend the operation of the anti-slavery clause of the ordinance. These attempts were repeated through a succession of years, until the winter of 1806-7, when a final effort was made by the ter- ritorial legislature to this end. All were without avail, although some of the committees of congress, to whom the subject was referred, reported in favor of the measure. * Just previous to the war of 1812, with Great Britain, Indiana was ha- rassed by the hostile movements of the Shawnees, led on by Tecumseh and his brother the Prophet. To oppose these proceedings, bodies of regular troops and militia were concentrated at Vincennes, and placed under the command of William Henry Harrison, then governor. On Nov. 7, 1811, the governor appeared before Prophet's town, or TIppecanoc, on the Wabash, and demanded restitution of the property which the Indians had carried off. After a conference it was agreed that hostilities should not commence until *'The arguments by which this policy was advocated, are thus set forth in the following extract of a report of a congressional committee, made in favor of the prayer of the peti- tioners on the 14th of February, 1806. " That, having attentively considered the facts stated in the said petitions and memorials, they are of opinion that a qualified suspension, for a limited time, of the sixth article of compact between the original states, and the peo- ple and states west of the River Ohio, would be beneficial to the people of the Indiana Ter- ritory. The suspension of this article is an object almost universally desired in that terri- tory. It appears to your committee to be a question entirely different from that between slavery and freedom ; inasmuch as it would merely occasion the removal of persons, already slaves, from one part of the country to another. The good effects of this suspension, in the pres- ent instance, would be to accelerate the population of that territory, hitherto retarded by the operation of that article of compact, as slave-holders emigrating into the western coun- try might then indulge any preference which they might feel for a settlement in the Indiana Territory, instead of seeking, as they are now compelled to do, settlements in other states or countries permitting the introduction of slaves. The condition of the slaves themselves would be much ameliorated by it, as it is evident, from experience, that the more they are separated and diffused, the more care and attention are bestowed on them by their masters, each proprietor having it in his power to increase their comforts and conveniences, in pro- portion to the suiallness of their numbers." INDIANA. 157 *tfxt morning. The enemy, however, attempted to take Harrison by sur- prise the night after the conference. The governor knowing the character of his wily foe, arranged his troops in battle order as they encamped. Just be- fore day they were attacked by the Indians, but the Americans being pre- pared for the onset, they successfully repelled the savages. The conflict, though short, was unusually severe ; the Indians fought with desperate cour- age, but the fate of the battle was soon decided, and the Indians fled in every direction, having lost, it is supposed, about 150 of their number. Harrison now laid waste their country, and soon afteward the tribes sued for peace. The war of 1812, with Great Britain, gave a fresh impetus to Indian hos- tilities. Seduced into the British service, the Indians, after committing great cruelties, received full retribution from the Americans; their villages were destroyed and their country laid waste. The outline of the military events which occurred within the present boun- daries of the state, are as follows : Fort Harrison, situated on the Wabash, 60 miles above Vincennes, was attacked on the night of the 4th of September, 1812, by several hundred Indians from the Prophet's town. In the evening previous, 30 or 40 Indians appeared before the fort with a flag, under the pretense of obtaining provisions. The commander, Capt Zachary Taylor (since president}, made preparations for the expected at- tack. In the night, about 11 o'clock, the Indians commenced the attack by firing on the sentinel. Almost immediately, the lower block-house was discovered to have been set on fire. As this building joined the barracks which made part of the fortifications, most of the men panic stricken, gave themselves up for lost. In the ine^n time, the yells of several hundred savages, the cries of the women and children, and the despondency of the soldiers, rendered it a scene of confusion. But the presence of mind of the captain, did not forsake him. By the most stren- uous exertions on his part, the fire was prevented from spreading, and before day the men had erected a temporary breast-work seven feet high, within the spot where the building was consumed. The Indians kept up the attack until morning, when, finding their efforts ineffectual, they retired. At this 'time, there were not more than 20 men in the garrison fit for duty. Shortly after, Gen. Hopkins, with a large force, engaged in two different expe- ditions against the Indians on the head waters of the Wabash and the Illinois. The first was in October. With 4,000 mounted volunteers from Kentucky, Illi- nois and Indiana, he left Vincennes early in the month, relieved Fort Harrison on the 10th, and from thence, marched for the Kickapoo villages, and the Peoria towns the first 100, and the last 160 miles distant. But his men mutinizing, he was obliged to return before reaching the hostile towns. On the llth of Novem- ber, lie marched from Fort Harrison, on his second expedition, with a detachment of regular troops and volunteers. On the 20th, he arrived at the Prophet's tovrn, at which place and vicinity, he destroyed 300 wigwams, and large quantities of Indian corn. Several other expeditions were successfully accomplished, against the Indians on the Wabash, the Illinois, and their tributaries, by which the se- curity of that frontier was effected. Immediately after the massacre at Chicago, Fort Wayne was closely besieged by several hundred Miami and Pottawatomie Indians. The garrison numbered only some 60 or 70 effective men. The siege continued until near the middle of September, when Gen. Harrison marched to its relief with 2,500 men, upon which the Indians fled. From Franklinton, in Central Ohio, Harrison, in November, sent Col. Camp- bell, with 600 men, against the Indian towns on the Missininneway, a branch of the Wabash. They destroyed several of their towns, and defeated the Indians in a. hard fought battle, but the severity of the weather compelled them to return. Until 1800, the territory now included in Indiana, remained a portion of the North-west Territory. In this year it was, including the present state 158 INDIANA. of Illinois, organized under the name of Indiana Territory. In 1809, tho western part of the territory was set off as " Illinois Territory." In 1816, Indiana was admitted into the Union as a sovereign state. In 1851, a new constitution was adopted by the people. Until 1818, the central part of Indiana was an unbroken wilderness, in- habited by the Miami, Delaware, and Shawnee Indians. By a treaty at St. Mary's, Ohio, October 2, 1818, between Lewis Cass, Jonathan Jennings, arid Benjamin Park, commissioners, and the Delaware Indians, the latter ceded all their territory in Indiana to the United States, covenanting to de- liver the possession in 1821. This region was afterward called "the New Purchase." Its reported fertility and beauty attracted settlers, who imme- diately entered the country and made settlements at various points. Indiana is bounded N. by Michigan and Lake Michigan, W. by Illinois, E. by Ohio, and S. by the Ohio River. It lies between 37 45' and 41 52' N. Lat., and 85 49' 30" and 88 2' 30" W. Long. Its extreme length from north to south is 276 miles, and its greatest width 176, containing 33,809 square miles, or 21, 637,760 acres. The soil of the state is generally good, and much of it highly fertile. The richest lands are found in the river bot- toms, where the soil is very deep. This is especially the case in the valleys of the Wabash and its tributaries, and in some parts of the Ohio valley. There are no mountains in Indiana, but the country bordering on the Ohio, and in some other parts is hilly and broken. It is estimated that about two thirds of the state is level, or at most slightly undulating. Bordering on all the principal streams, except the Ohio, are strips of bottom and prairie land from three to five miles in width. Remote from the rivers, the country is broken and the soil light. Between the Wabash and Lake Michigan, the surface is generally level, interspersed with woodlands, prairies and swamps. On the shores of Lake Michigan are sand hills 210 feet high, back of which are sandy hillocks with a growth of pine. The prairies bordering on the Wabash have a soil from two to five feet in depth. The principal agricultural production of Indiana is Indian corn : great quantities of pork and flour are annually exported. It is stated that Indiana has beds of coal within her limits covering 7,700 square miles, capable of yielding 50,000,000 bushels to the square mile. The population of Indiana in 1800 was 4,875; in 1820, 147,178; in 1840, 685,886; in 1850, 988,393 ; and in 1860, 1,359,802. VINCENNES, the county seat of Knox county, is pleasantly situated on the left bank of Wabash River, 120 miles S.W. of Indianapolis, 192 from Cin- cinnati, 147 from St. Louis, and 56 N. of Evansville, on the Ohio. It is on the line of the Ohio and Mississippi Railroad, and is connected with Evans- ville at the south, and with Terra Haute and other places at the north, by railroad. The town is regularly laid out on a fertile level prairie. The Wabash is navigable for steamboats to this point. Vincennes contains eight churches. It is the seat of a Catholic bishopric, and a large, spacious Cathe- dral is erected here. Considerable attention is paid to education, and of the principal institutions, several are Catholic, viz: an ecclesiastical seminary, female academy, and two orphan asylums. The Vincennes University has 125 students. Population about 6,000. Vincennes is the oldest town in the state: it was settled by a colony of French emigrants from Canada, in 1735. Some historians claim that it was occupied as a French post as early as 1720. It received its present name in INDIANA. 159 1735, from M. de Vincennes, a French officer who was killed that year among the Chickasaws. For a long period nothing of much moment seems to have occurred in the history of St. Vincent, as Vincennes was sometimes called. At the commencement of the American Revolution, most of the old French South view of the Harrison House, Vincennes. The honse here represented was erected by (Jen. Harrison, when governor of the territory. Tt stands n the banks of tho Wabash, a few rods easterly from the railroad bridge. The grove in which Tecnmseh met the council is immediately in front of the house, two trees of whinh, seen on the left, are the only ones remaining. The track of tho Uhio and Mississippi Railroad appears in the foreground. posts were garrisoned with British troops, who incited the Indian tribes in their vicinity to take up arms against the Americans. In 1778, Col. George Rogers Clark was sent by the legislature of Virginia, with a small force, to take possession of the British posts on the western frontiers. By his address he succeeded in obtaining possession of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and Vincennes, without bloodshed. In Dec., 1778, Hamilton, the British governor at Detroit, came down upon St. Vincent, or Vincennes, with a large body of troops in an unexpected manner. At this time, Post Vincennes was garrisoned by two men only, Capt. Helm, of Virginia, and one Henry. " Helm, however, was not dis- posed to yield, absolutely, to any odds; so, loading his single cannon, he stood by it with a lighted match. When the British came nigh he bade them stand, and demanded to know what terms would be granted the garri- son, as otherwise he should not surrender. The governor, unwilling to lose time and men, offered the usual honors of war, and could scarcely believe his eyes when he saw the threatening garrison to be only one officer and one private." On the 24th of Feb., 1779, Col. Clark, with a force of one hun- dred and seventy men, including pack-horsemen, etc., re-appeared before Vincennes, and demanded its surrender. It was garrisoned at this time by seventy-nine men, under the command of Lieut. Gov. Hamilton, who was called the "hair buyer," for his. offering the Indians a certain sum for each scalp they brought in. He was compelled to give up "Fort Sackville," and with some others, was sent prisoner to Virginia. With the capture of Vincennes and the other British posts, of Kaskaskia, 160 INDIANA. Cahokia, etc., in the Illinois country, by Clark, Virginia acquired the coun- try then known as the North-west Territory, which she ceded to the gen- eral government, in 1789. When the Indiana Territory was organized in 1800, Vincennes was made the capital, and so remained until 1313, when Corydon became the capital of the Territory and in 1816 of the state. In 1825, Indianapolis, within the " New Purchase," became the state capital. The following account of the celebrated interview between Tecumseh and Gen. Harrison, in front of the Harrison House, now standing in Vincennes, is from Judge Law's " Colonial History of Post Vincennes, etc.:" In the spring of 1810, Gen. Harrison, being governor of the North-western Ter- ritory, and residing at Vincennes the seat of government had learned from va- rious quarters that Tecumseh had been visiting the different Indian tribes, scat- tered along the valleys of the Wabash and Illinois, with a view of forming an alli- ance and making common cause against the whites, and that there was great prob- ability that his mission had been successful. Aware, as he was, that if this was the case, and that if the combination had been formed, such as was represented, the settlements in the southern portion of Indiana and Illinois were in great dan- ger; that Vincennes itself would be the first object of attack, and that, with a handful of troops in the territory, a successful resistance might not be made; and not probably fully aware of the extent of the organization attempted by Tecumseh, and desirous of avoiding, if he could, the necessity of a call to arms, he sent a message to him, then residing at the "Prophet's Town," inviting him to a council, to be held at as early a period as possible, for the purpose of talking over and amicably settling all difficulties which might exist between the whites and the Shawnees. It was not until the month of August of the same year, that Tecum- seh, accompanied by about seventy of his warriors made his appearance. They encamped on the banks of the Wabash, just above the town, and Tecumseh gave notice to the governor that, in pursuance of his invitation, he had come to hold a talk " with him and his braves." The succeeding day was appointed for the meet- ing. The governor made all suitable preparations for it. The officers of the ter- ritory and the leading citizens of the town were invited to be present, while a por- tion of a company of militia was detailed as a guard fully armed and equipped for any emergency. Notice had been sent to Tecumseh, previous to the meeting, that it was expected that himself and a portion of his principal warriors would be present at the council. The council was held in the open Jawn before the gov- ernor's house, in a grove of trees which then surrounded it. But two of these, I regret to say, are now remaining. At the time appointed, Tecumseh and some fifteen or twenty of his warriors made their appearance. With a firm and elastic step, and with a proud and somewhat defiant look, he advanced to the place where the governor and those who had been invited to attend the conference were sitting. This place had been fenced in, with a view of preventing the crowd from encroach- ing upon the council during its deliberations. As he stepped forward he seemed to scan the preparations which had been made for his reception, particularly the mi-litary part of it, with an eye of suspicion by no means, however, of fear. As he came in front of the dais, an elevated portion of the place upon which the governor and the officers of the territory were seated, the governor invited him, through his interpreter, to come forward and take a seat with him and his counsellors, premis- ing the invitation by saying: "That it was the wish of their 'Great Father,' the President of the United States, that he should do so." The chief paused for a moment, as the words were uttered and the sentence finished, and raising his tall form to its greatest hight, surveyed the troops and the crowd around him. Then with his keen eyes fixed upon the governor for a single moment, and turning them to the sky above, with his sinewy arm pointing toward the heavens, and with a tone and manner indicative of supreme contempt for the paternity assigned him, said, in a voice whose clarion tone was heard throughout the whole assembly: "My Father? The sun is my father the earth is my mother and on her bosom INDIANA. I icill recline." Having finished, he stretched himself with his warriors on the green sward. The effect, it is said, was electrical, and for some moments there was perfect silence. The governor, through the interpreter, then informed him, " that he had under- stood he had complaints to make and redress to ask for certain wrongs which he, Tecumseh, supposed had been done his tribe, as well as the others; that he felt disposed to listen to the one and make satisfaction for the other, if it was proper he should do so. That in all his intercourse and negotiations with the Indians, he had endeavored to act justly and honorably with them, and believed he had done so, and had learned of no complaint of his conduct until he learned that Tecumseli was endeavoring to create dissatisfaction toward the government, not only among the Shawnees, but among the other tribes dwelling on the Wabash and Illinois; and had, in so doing, produced a great deal of trouble between them and the whites, by averring that the tribes whose land the government had lately pui-chascd, had no right to sell, nor their chiefs any authority to convey. That he, the gov- ernor, had invited him to attend the council, with a, view of learning from his own lips, whether there was any truth in the reports which he had heard, and to learn whether he, or his tribe, had any just cause of complaint against the whites, and, if so, as a man and a warrior, openly to avow it. That as between himself and as great a warrior as Tecumseh, there should be no concealment all should be done by them under a clear sky, and in an open path, and with these feelings on his own part, he was glad to meet him in council." Tecumseh arose as soon as the gov- ernor had finished. Those who knew him speak of him as one of the most splen- did specimens of his tribe celebrated for their physical proportions and fine forms, even among the nations who surrounded them. Tall, athletic and manly, digni- fied, but graceful, he seemed the beau ideal of an Indian chieftain. In a voice first low, but with all its indistinctness, musical, he commenced his reply. As he wanned with his subject, his clear tones might be heard, as if " truinpet-tongued," to the utmost limits of the assembled crowd who surrounded him. The most per- fect silence prevailed, except when the warriors who surrounded him gave their gutteral assent to some eloquent recital of the red man's wrong and the white man's injustice. Well instructed in the traditions of his tribe, fully acquainted with their history, the /councils, treaties, and battles of the two races for half a century, he recapitulated the wrongs of the red man from the massacre of the Mo- ravian Indians, during the revolutionary war, down to the period he had met the governor in council. lie told him " he did not know how he could ever ajsjain be the friond of the white man." In reference to the public domain, he asserted "that the Great Spirit had given all the country from the Miami to the Mississippi, from the lakes to the Ohio, as a common property to all the tribes that dwelt within those borders, and that the land could not, and should not be sold without the con- sent of all. That all the tribes on the continent formed but one nation. That if the United States would not give up the lands they had bought of the Miamis, the Delawares, the Pottowatomies, and other tribes, that those united with him were determined to fall on those tribes and annihilate them. That they were deter- mined to have no more chiefs, but in future to be governed by their warriors. That their tribes had been driven toward the setting sun, like a galloping horse (Ne-kat-a cush-e Ka-top o-lin-to.) That for himself and his warriors, he had de- termined to resist all further aggressions of the whites, and that with his consent, or that of the Shawnees, they should never acquire another foot of land. To those who have never heard of the Shawnee language, I may here remark it is the most musical and euphonious of all the Indian languages of the west. When spoken rapidly by a fluent speaker, it sounds more like the scanning of Greek and Latin verse, than anything [ can compare it to. The effect of this address, of which I have simply given the outline, and which occupied an hour in the delivery, may be readily imagined. William Henry Harrison was as brave a man as ever lived. All who knew him will acknowledge his courage, moral and physical, but he was wholly unprepared for such a speech as this. There was a coolness, an independence, a defiance in the whole manner and matter of the chieftain's speech which astonished even him. He knew Tecumseh well. He had learned to appreciate his high qualities as a 11 162 INDIANA. man and warrior. He knew his power, his skill, his influence, not only over his own tribe, but over those who dwelt on the waters of the Wabash and Illinois. He knew he was no braggart that what he said he meant what he promised he in- tended to perform. He was fully aware that he was a foe not to be treated light an enemy to be conciliated not scorned one to be met with kindness not contempt. There was a stillness throughout the assembly when Tecumseh had done speaking which was painful. Not a whisper was to be heard all eyes were turned from the speaker to the governor. The unwarranted and unwarrantable pretensions of the chief, and the bold and defiant tone in which he had announced them, stag- gered even him. It was some moments before he arose. Addressing Tecumseh, who had taken his seat with his warriors, he said : " That the charges of bad faith made against the government, and the assertion that injustice had been done the Indians in any treaty ever made, or any council ever held with them by the United States, had no foundation in fact. That in all their dealings with the red man, they had ever been governed by the strictest rules of right and justice. That while other civilized nations had treated them with contumely and contempt, ours had always acted in good faith with them. That so far as he individually was con- cerned, he could say in the presence of the 'Great Spirit,' who was watching over their deliberations, that his conduct, even with the most insignificant tribe, had been marked with kindness, and all his acts governed by honor, integrity and fair dealing. That he had uniformly been the friend of the red man, and that it was the first time in his life that his motives had been questioned or his actions im- peached. It was the first time in his life that he had ever heard such unfounded claims put forth, as Tecumseh had set up, by any chief, or any Indian, having the least regard for truth, or the slightest knowledge of the intercourse between the Indian and the white man, from the time this continent was first discovered." What the governor had said thus far had been interpreted by Barren, the inter- preter to the Shawnees, and he was about interpreting it to the Miamis and Potta- watomies, who formed part of the cavalcade, when Tecumseh, addressing the in- terpreter in Shawnec, said, ; ' Tie lies!" Barron, who had, as all subordinates (es- pecially in the Indian department) have, a great reverence and respect for the "powers that be," commenced interpreting the language of Tecumseh to the governor, but not exactly in the terms made use of, when Tecumseh, who under- stood but little English, perceived from his embarrassment and awkwardness, that he was not giving his words, interrupted him and again addressing him in Shaw- nee, said: "No, no; tell Mm he lies." The gutteral assent of his party showed they coincided with their chief's opinion. Gen. Gibson, secretary of the territory, who understood Shawnee, had not been an inattentive spectator of the scene, and understanding the import of the language made use of, and from the excited state of Tecumseh and his party, was apprehensive of violence, made a signal to the troops in attendance to shoulder their arms and advance. They did so. The speech of Tecumseh was literally translated to the governor. He directed Barron to say to him, "he would hold no further council with him," and the meeting broke up. One can hardly imagine a more exciting scene one which would be a finer sub- ject for an " historical painting," to adorn the rotunda of the capitol, around which not a single picture commemorative of western history is to be found. On the succeeding day, Tecumseh requested another interview with the governor, which was granted on condition that he should make an apology to the governor for his language the day before. This he made through the interpreter. Measures for defense and protection were however taken, lest there should be another outbreak. Two companies of militia were ordered from the country, and the one in town added to them, while the governor and his friends went into council fully armed and prepared for any contingency. The conduct of Tecumseh upon this occasion was entirely different from that of the day before. Firm and intrepid, showing not the slightest fear or alarm, surrounded as he was with the military force quad- rupling his own, he preserved the utmost composure and equanimity. No one could have discerned from his looks, although he must have fully understood the object of calling in the troops, that he was in the slightest degree disconcerted. He waa cautious in his bearing, dignified in his manner, and no one from observ- INDIANA. ing him would for a moment have supposed he was the principal actor in the thrilling scene of the previous day. In thie interval between the sessions of the first and second council, Tecumseh had told Barron, the interpreter, " that he had been informed by the whites, that the people of the territory were almost equally divided, half in favor of Tecumseh, and the other adhering to the governor." The same statement he made in council. He said " that fwo Americans had made him a visit, one in the course of the pre- ceding winter, the other lately, and informed him that Governor Harrison had pur- chased land from the Indians without any authority from the government, and that one half of the people were opposed to the purchase. He also told the governor that he, Harrison, had but two years more to remain in office, and if he, Tecumseh, could prevail upon the Indians who sold the lands not to receive their annuities for that time, that when the governor was displaced, as he would be, and a good man appointed as his successor, he would restore to the Indians all the lands pur- chased from them." After Tecumseh had concluded his speech, a Wyandot, a Kickapoo, a Pottawatomie, an Ottowa, and a Winnebago chief, severally spoke, and declared that their tribes had entered into the " Shawnee Confederacy," and would support the principles laid down by Tecumseh, whom they had appointed their leader. At the conclusion of the council, the governor informed Tecumseh " that he would immediately transmit his speech to the president, and as soon as his answer was received would send it to him; but as a person had been appointed to run the boundary line of the new purchase, he wished to know whether there would be danger in his proceeding to run the line." Tecumseh replied, " that he and his allies were determined that the old boundary line should continue, and that if the whites crossed it, it would be at their peril." The governor replied, "that since Tecumseh had been thus candid in stating his determination, he would be equally so with him. The president, he was convinced, would never allow that the lands on the Wabash were the propert}' of any other tribes than those who had occupied them, and lived on them since the white people came to America. And as the title to the lands lately purchased was derived from those tribes by fair purchase, he might rest assured that the right of the United States would be supported by the e word." "So be it," was the stern and haughty reply of the "Shawnee chieftain," as he and his braves took leave of the governor and wended their way in Indian file to their camping ground. And thus ended the last conference on earth between the chivalrous and gallant Tecumseh, the Shawnee chief, and he who since the period alluded to has ruled the destinies of the nation as its chief magistrate. The bones of the first lie bleaching on the battle-field of the Thames those of the last are deposited in the mausoleum that covers them on the banks of the Ohio. INDIANAPOLIS, the capital of Indiana, and seat of justice for Marion county, is on the west fork of White River, at the crossing of the National Road, 109 miles N.W. from Cincinnati, 86 N.N.W. from Madison, on the Ohio, and 573 W. by N. from Washington. The city is located on a fertile and extensive plain, two miles N.W. of the geographical center of the state, which was formerly covered with a dense growth of timber. The original town plat was a mile square, but it has extended itself on all^ sides. Washington- street through which the National Road passes, the principal street in the city, is 120 feet wide, Circle-street 80 feet, the others 90 feet. On the 1st of Jan., 1825, the public offices of the state were removed from Corydon, the former capital, to Indianapolis, and the ^eat of government established here; but the legislature held its sessions in the county court house, until Dec., 1834, when tha- state house was completed. This showy structure, 180 feet long by 80 wide, is on the model of the Parthenon at Athens, and was built at - cost of about 860,000. 164 INDIANA. Indianapolis is one of the greatest railroad centers in 'the world, nearly one hundred different trains pass in and out of the city daily, and from 3,000 to 5,000 persons visit the place in twenty-four hours. It is stated that the citizens of 80 of the 91 counties in the state, can coine to Indianapolis, attend View of the State House, from Wasltiny ion-street, Indianapolis. to business, and return the same day. The completion of the Madison and Indianapolis Railroad gave a great, impetus to the growth of the place : then the population was about 4,000, in I860. 18,612. The streets of the city are broad, laid out at right angles, well shaded and adorned with a number of very superior buildings. The benevolent institu- tions of the state, for the insane, deaf and dumb, and the blind, are located at this place, and are an ornament to the city and state. The city has 16 churches, a system of free graded schools, and is the seat of the North-west- ern Christian University, a nourishing institution under the patronage of the Christian Church. The university building is an elegant edifice in the Gothic style. The following historical items are extracted from Howard's Historical Sketch of Indianapolis, in the city directory for 1857 : In IS 18, Dr. Douglass ascended White River from the lower counties, tarrying at the bluffs for a short time, and Col. James Paxton descended it from its he;id- waters, reaching this place in January or February, 1819. He ao;ain returned ia 1820, and made some preparations for settlement, but never completed them. The honor due to the 'first settler,' belongs to John Pogue, who came from White- water and settled here on the 2d day of March, 1819. His cabin stood by a hirire spring, close to the east bank of ' Pogue' s Run,' near the present residence of W. P. Xoble. Its ruins were visible until withya a few years, and perhaps exist at this time. Pogue was killed by the Indians in April, 1821. His horses were missing one morning in that month, and as some disturbance had been heard among them during the night, he concluded the Indians had stolen them, and armed himself for pursuit. When last seen he was near the Indian camp, and as his horses and clothes were afterward seen in their possession, little doubt re- INDIANA. 165 mained as to his fate. His death greatly excited the settlers, but their numerical weakness prevented an effort to avenge it. The little stream which once pursued a very torturous course through the south-east part of the city, alarming the few inhabitants of that section by its high floods, but which is now so changed that its old character is utterly lost, was named after Pogue, and will be a memorial of him as 'the first settler' of Indianapolis. Main Passenger Railroad Station, Union Depot, Indianapolis. Showing the appearance of the Station as it is entered from the west. In February, 1820, John and James McCnrmick built a cabin near the present river bridge. In the early part of March, John Msixwell and John Cowen built cabins in the north-west corner of the donation, near the Michigan road. Fall creek bridge. In April, IS2I, Mr. Maxwell was appointed a justice of the pence by Gov Jennings, nnd was the first judicial officer in 'the New Purchase.' He retained the olHce until June, and then resigned. The citizens held an informal election, and selected James Mcllvaine, who was thereupon appointed a justice by Gov. Jennings, in Oct., 1821. In the latter part of March, and in April and May of 1820. a number of emi- grants arrived, and at the end of the latter month there were 15 families on the donation. Among them were Messrs. Davis, Bainhill, Corbley, Wilson, Van Blari- cuin and Harding. Emigrants now began to turn their faces toward the infant settlement, and it slowly and steadily increased for a year afterward. The eagerness of the settlers to appropriate lands in the New Purchase, found its counterpart in the action of the state, concerning the location of the new seat of government. The act of Congress, of April 19, 1816, authorizing the formation of a state government, donated four sections of the unsold public lands to the state, for a permanent seat of government, giving the privilege of selection. The subject was considered immediately after the treaty at St. Marys, and on the llth of January, 1820, the legislature, by law, appointed George Hunt, John Conner, John Gilliland, Stephen Ludlow, Joseph Bartholomew, John Tipton, Jesse B. Dun- ham, Frederick Rapp, Win. Prince, and Thomas Emerson, commissioners to select a location for a permanent seat of government. * * * The present site was selected, which gave the place instant reputation, and in the spring, and summer, and fall of 1819, it rapidly increased in population. Morris Morris, Dr. S. G. Mitchell, J. and J. Given, Wm. Reagan, M. Nowland, J. M. Ray, James Blake, Nathaniel Cox, Thomas Anderson, John Hawkins, Dr. Dunlap, David Wood, D. Yandes, Col. Rua- acll, N. M. Clearty, Dr. Coe, D. Maguire, and many others arrived, and the cabins 16 INDIANA. rapidly increased along the river bank. On January 6, 1821, the legislature con- firmed the selection of the site and named it Indianapolis. The settlement afterward moved east, the unparalleled sickness of 1821 con- vincing the settlers that a residence away from the river was the best for them. A fine grove of tall straight sugar trees stood on the 'Governor's Circle.' On Sun- days the early settlers assembled there to hear preaching by Rev. John McClung. They sat on the logs and grass about him in Indian style. This gentleman was probably ffie first preacher in the place, and preached the first sermon on this spot in the summer or fall of 1821. Other authorities say that the first sermon was preached this year where the state house now stands, by Rev. Risen Hammond. Calvin Fletcher, Esq., who now lives just north of the city, was then the only attorney-at-law in the new settlement, and the ultimate judge in all knotty cases. There was no jail nearer than Connersville, and the culprit sentenced to imprison- ment, had to be conveyed by the constable and his posse, on horseback through the woods to that place. This involved much time, trouble and expense, and the shorter plan was afterward adopted to scare them away. An instance occurred on Christmas day, 1821. Four Kentucky boatmen, who had 'whipped their weight in wild-cats,' came from ' the bluffs' to 'Naples' (as they called the town), to have a jolly Christmas spree. The 'spree' began early, and the settlers were aroused before the dawn, by a terrible racket at Daniel Larken's grocery. A hasty recon- noissance revealed the four heroes busily engaged in the laudable work of 'taking it down.' A request to desist provoked strong expletives, attended by a display of large knives, which demonstration caused the citizens to 'retire' to consult. They were interested ia the grocery, .and besides that, such lawless proceedings could not be tolerated. They therefore determined to conquer at all hazards. James Blake volunteered to grapple the ring leader, a man of herculean size and strength, if the rest would take the three other.*. The attack was made at once, the party conquered, and marched under guard through the woods to Justice Mcllvaine's cabin. They were tried and heavily fined, and in default of payment ordered to jail. They could not pay, and it was deemed impossible to take them through the woods to Connersville at that season of the year. A guard was, therefore, placed over them, with the requisite instructions, and during the night the doughty he- roes escaped to more congenial climes. Toward the end of the summer [1821], and during the fall, epidemic, remittent, and intermittent fevers and agues assailed the people, and scarcely a person was left untouched. Although several hundred cases occurred, not more than five ter- minated fatally. After escaping death by disease, the people were threatened with starvation. Jn consequence of sickness, the influx of people and the small amount of grain raised, the supply of provisions in the settlement became very meager in the fall and winter of 1821. No roads had been opened to the town, and all goods and provisions had to be packed on horseback, 50 or/ 60 miles through the woods, or brought up the river in keel boats. The latter method was adopted in 1822, and the arrival of each boat was greeted by a concourse of ' the whole people,' and duly announced in the 'Indianapolis Gazette.' Coffee was worth 50 cents a pound, tea, $2 00; corn, $1 00 per bushel; flour, $4 00 to $5 00 per hundred; coarse muslin, 45 cents per yard, and other goods in proportion. To relieve the people ami prevent starvation, flour and other articles were brought from the White- water Valley, and corn was purchased at the Indian villages up the river and boated down to the town. The nearest mill was Goodlandin on Whitewater River, and the arrival of a cargo of meal and flour, or of other articles from that quarter, produced general joy in the settlement. The settlers generously relieved each other's distress in this case, as in the preceding sickness, and many pecks of meal, sacks of flour, parcels of fish, meat, and other articles of food, were distributed to some more destitute neighbor. After the October sale of lots, the weather, which, during the summer, had been very wet and changeable, and in the fall cold and gloomy, changed, and a long and beautiful Indian summer began. The sick quickly recovered their health, strength and spirits. The settlement rapidly tended to the east, for the sickness had been worse near the river, and the new comers and older settlers built their cabins INDIANA. 167 along Washington-street much farther from it than before. The dreary appear- ance of the settlement during the fall, no longer clung to it, and notwithstanding the threatened famine, the hopes of the settlers rose higher than ever. Washing- ton-street was the first street cleared, and during the fall of 1821, was completely blocked up by felled trees and prickly ash bushes. John Hawkins built a large log tavern where the Capitol House now stands, using logs cut from the site and adjoining street in its erection. The main settlement was still west of the canal, near the spot now occupied by the Carlisle House-. A group of cabins in this vi- cinity, was dignified by ' Wilmot's Row,' from a man of that name who kept a store in the vicinity, and who was one of the first merchants of the place. The first merchant was a man named Nicholas Shaffer. He had a little store on the high ground, south of Pogue's Run, commencing in the spring of 1821. He was the first person who died on the donation. He died in May or June. 1821, and was buried in Pogue's Run Valley, near the present site of the sixth ward school house. The first marriage, the first birth, and the first death, occurred in 1821. The first wedding was between Miss Reagan and Jeremiah Jolmson. He walked to Connersville and back, 120 miles, for his marringe license; and others did the same until the county was organized The first Presbyterian minister was 0. P. Gaines, who came in Aug. 1821 : the first Baptist minister was John Water, who came in the fall of 1821 : the first Methodist minister was James Scott, who came in Oct. 1822. The first physician was Isaac Coe, who came in 1821. The ih-st attorney was Calvin Fletcher, who came in Sept., 1821. Joseph C. Reed, who came in 1821. was the first school teachor : the first school house stood just north of the State Bank, near a large pond. The first market house was built-in 1822, in the maple grove on the Governor's Circle. The first brick house was bj^Jt in 1822, by John Johnson, on the lot east of Robert's Chapel: the first frame house vas built by James Blake, in 1821-2, on the lot east of the Masonic Hall, it was also the first plastered house On Jan. 28, 1822, the first number of the 'Indiana Gazette' was published in a cabin south-east of the Carlisle House, and west of the canal. This paper, the first in the town or in the 'New Purchase,' was edited arid printed by George Smith and Nathaniel Botton. In 1823, the Presbyterians erected the first church on the lot just north of Maj. A. F. Morrison's residence. It cost, with the lot, about $1,200, and was regarded as a very fine and expensive one for the town. It now forms part of a carriage manufactory. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the grave-yard in this place: NOAH NOBLE, born in Virginia, Jan. 15, A. D., 1791. Governor of Indiana from 1831 to 1837. Died at Indianapolis Feb. A. D. 1844. ANDREW KENNEDY, late a Representative to Congress from Indiana, born July 24, 1810. Died Dec.*31, 1847. This stone is erected to his memory by his friends, in token of their love of the man, and their respect for his ability and integrity as a Statesman. JAMES WHITCOMB, a native of Vermont, Born Dec. 1795, brought to Ohio when 11 years old. SELF-TAUGHT, commenced practice of Law 1822, at Bloomington, Indiana, was State and Circuit Attorney ; State Senator ; Commissioner of General Land Office ; twice Governor of Indiana. Died Oct. 1852, at the City of New York, while Senator of the United States. Eminent in learning, Devoted to Country and God. ISAAC COE, M.D., born July 25, 1782, died July 30, 1855, the founder of Sabbath Schools in Indianapolis. TERRE HAUTE, city, and the county seat for Vigo county, is situated on the left or eastern bank of the Wabash River, 73 miles west of Indianapolis; 109 N. from Evansville; 69 N. from Vincennes, and 187 E. from St. Louis 168 INDIANA. The town site is elevated about 60 feet above low water, and somewlut above the contiguous prairie which is about 10 miles long and two wide. It is on the line of the Wabash and Erie Canal. The National Road here crosses the river on a fine bridge. Being situated in a fertile district, having steam- boat and railroad communication in various directions. Terre Haute is the Cuurt House and other baildinys, Terre Haute. A* soon from the north-west corner of the Public Square. Tlie Sfiite B:ink unI'"S ClHHU'K. From a [x'tiril pkntcli, iiiafl<- Rlmiit tlii' yc;ir ISI'O. l>y 1'rof. liirliani Owen. Tlie olinrch is cruciform in utiapo, about 110 liy Kid ft-rt, iiml is yet standing, tliougli divestal of the cupola. NEW HARMONY is a village of about 800 inhabitants, in Poscy county, in that part of Indiana called " the Pocket." It stands on the Wabash, about 100 miles from its mouth, following its meanders, but only 15 from the Ohio at Mount Vernon, its nearest point, and the south-westernmost town )f the state. The place has acquired a wide reputation from two socialistic experiments the first by George Rapp, of Germany, and the last by Robert Owen, of Scotland. The Rappites, or, as they are sometimes called, Harmon-ties, first emigrated from Wirtemburg, in Germany, about the year 1803, having left their country, as they asserted, on account of persecution for their religious opinions, and first built a town in western Pennsylvania, which they called Har- mony. But having the cultivation of the grape very much at heart, which did not appear to thrive as well as they wished, they sold out their estab- lishment at Harmony, and in 1814, under the guidance of their pastor. Rev. George Rapp, moved to the Wabash, where the climate was supposed to be more congenial to their wishes. There they cleared the land, built a beautiful village, which they called New Harmony, containing about 150 houses, planted orchards and vineyards, erected mills and factories of various kinds, and made "the wilderness blossom like the rose." According to tlieir system, all property was held in common, there being no such thing known to them as an indi- vidual owning any. After remaining some eight or ten years, the Rappites discovered that the unhcalthiness of this then new country, called for a change of climate, so they beat a speedy retreat. The society, therefore, re- turned to Pennsylvania in 1825, and selecting a site on the Ohio, 18 miles below Pittsburg, cleared the land, and built the present handsome town of Economy, which contains some 500 inhabitants. It is yet a thriving com- rnunity, and since the death of its founder, is governed by nine trustees. The Duke of Saxe Weimer, who visited Economy about the year 1826, haf left some interesting facts, upon the peculiarities of the Rappites : At the inn, a fine large frame house, we were received by Mr. Rapp, the princi pal, at the head of the community. He is a gray-headed and venerable old man most of the members emigrated 21 years ago from Wirtcmburg along with him. The elder Rapp is a large man of 70 years old, whose powers age seems not U have diminished ; his hair is gray, but his blue eyes, overshadowed by strons brows, are full of life and fire. Rapp's system is nearly the same as Owen's coin munify of goods, and all members of the society work together for the common in torost, by which the welfare of each individual is secured. Rapp does not hold his society together by these hopes alone, but also by the tie of religion, which is entirely wanting in Owen's community; and results declare that Ilapp's system is the better. No great results can be expected from Owen's plan; and a sight of it is very little in its favor. What is most striking and wonderful of all is, that so plain a man as Rapp can so successfully bring and keep together a society of nearly 700 persons, who, in a manner, honor him as a prophet. Equally so 1'or example is his power of government, which can suspend the intercourse of the sexes. lie found that the society was becoming too numerous, wherefore the mem- bers agreed to lice with their wives as sisters. All nearer intercourse is forbidden, as well as marriage; both are discouraged. However, some marriages constantly occur, and children are born every year, for whom there is provided a school and INDIANA. 173 a teacher. The members of the community manifest the very highest degree of veneration for the elder Rapp, whom they address and treat as a father. Mr. Frederick Rapp is a large, good-looking personage, of 40 years of age. He pos- sesses profound mercantile knowledge, and is the temporal, as his father is the spiritual chief of the community. All business passes through his hands; he re- presents the society, which, notwithstanding the change in the name of residence, is called the Harmony Society, in all their dealings with the world. They found that the farming and cattle raising, to which the society exclusively attended in both their former places of residence, were not sufficiently productive for their in- dustry, they therefore have established factories. The warehouse was shown to us, where the articles made here for sale or use are preserved, and I admired the excellence of all. The articles for the use of the society are kept by themselves, as the members have no private possessions, and everything is in common; so must they in relation to all their personal wants be supplied from the common stock. The clothing and food they make use of is of the best quality. Of the latter, flour, salt meat, and all long keeping articles, are served out monthly; fresh meat, on the contrary, and whatever spoils readily, is distributed whenever it is killed, according to the size of the family, etc. As every house has a garden, each family raises its own vegetables, and some poultry, and each family has its own bake oven. For such things as are not raised in Economy, there is a store provided, from which the members, with the knowledge of the di- rectors, may purchase what is necessary, and the people of the vicinity may also do the same. Mr. ilapp finally conducted us into the factory again, and said that the girls had especially requested this visit, that 1 might hear them sing. When their work is done, they collect in one of the factory rooms, to the number of 60 or 70, to sing spiritual and other songs. They have a peculiar hymn book, containing hymns from the Wirtemburg psalm book, and others written by the elder Rapp. A chair was placed for the old patriarch, who sat amidst the girls, and they commenced a hymn in a very delightful manner. It was naturally symphonious and exceedingly well arranged. The girls sang four pieces, at first sacred, but afterward, by Mr. Rapp's desire, of a gay character. With real emotion did I witness this interest- ing scene. The factories and workshops are wanned during winter by means of pipes connected with the steam-engine. All the workmen, and especially the fe- males, had very healthy complexions, and moved me deeply by the warm-hearted friendliness with which they saluted the elder Rapp. I was also much gratified to see vessels containing fresh sweet-smelling flowers standing on all the machines. The neatness which universally reigns here is in every respect worthy of praise. The second socialistic experiment here, proved less successful than the first. We give its history in the annexed communication from a corres- pondent familiar with the details : In 1824, the village of the Rappites, including 20,000 acres of land, was pur- chased by Mr. Robert Owen, of New Lanark, Scotland, who, after a most success- ful experiment in ameliorating the physical and moral condition of the laboring classes in that manufacturing village, believed that New Harmony would be a highly suitable place for testing his "social system," as explained in his "New Views of Society." As soon, therefore, as the Harmonites had removed, to estab- lish themselves at Economy, Pennsylvania, he gave a general invitation for those favorable to the community, in opposition to the competitive system, to give its practicability a fair trial at New Harmony. The call was responded to by about seven or eight hundred persons, and Mr. Owen was also joined by another wealthy gentleman from Scotland, Mr. William Maclure, who purchased from Mr. Owen part of the property; and for one year the community progressed, in some respects, rather favorably, but chiefly at their expense, under the name of "The Prelimina- ry Society." As all institutions, however, to be permanent, must be self-sustain- ing, unless largely endowed, the above society, hoping better to effect the desired object by a division into departments having more immediately similar views and interests, formed agricultural, educational, and other similar subdivisions, or com- munities, which sustained themselves, at the furthest, two years more; being 174 INDIANA. broken up partly by designing individuals, who joined the society only from selfish motives; partly also from inexperience in so novel an experiment; and partly, doubtless, from the difficulty of any large number of persons ever having views sufficiently similar to enable them to co-operate successfully for the common good. Since that social experiment, a period to which (although a failure as regards its pecuniary sustaining power) many of the older inhabitants still look back with pleasure, as a prornotive of benevolent, unselfish feeling, the houses, lots and ad- joining lands have passed into the hands of individuals; and New Harmony pro- gresses gradually, on the old system, being a quiet, orderly country town, geograph- ically out of the great commercial thoroughfare. The entire surviving family of the late Robert Owen, comprising three sons, one daughter, and numerous grandchildren, still resides there. The eldest son, Robert Dale Owen, represented the first district in congress, and has since been minister to Naples; the second son, William, died there some years since. The third son, Dr. D. D. Owen, has conducted two geological surveys for the United States, and is state geologist for three western states; he possesses, in New Harmony, one of the best scientific collections in the west, and a well-appointed laboratory. The fourth son, Dr. Richard Owen, was for nearly ten years professor of geology in the Western Military Institute (latterly the literary department of the University of Nashville, Tennessee), and later connected with the geological survey of Indiana. The daughter, Mrs. Fauntleroy, is widow of the late R. II. Fauntleroy, who lost his life in the service of the IT. S. coast survey. New Harmony was, at one period, the home of various distinguished individu- als, who united in the social experiment, such as : Dr. (r. Troost, the celebrated mineralogist, afterward state ideologist of Tennessee, and professor in the Univer- sity of Nashville; of Win. P. D'Arusmont, who married Miss Frances Wright; of Thomas Say, the naturalist, to whose memory a fine monument was erected in New Harmony ; of Joseph Neef, formerly an associate with Pestalozzi ; of C. A. Lesneur, the ichthyologist, who was naturalist in the voyage of La Perouse to New Holland, afterward curator of the Havre museum; and the town is still the resi- dence of several scientific persons, and the seat of the Indiana School of Practical Sciences. As noted above, the celebrated Fanny Wright, was connected with the social scheme of Mr. Owen, at New Harmony. Thirty years ago her name was in the public papers of the day, as the most prominent of "the strong minded" of her sex in all the land. She was gifted with mental powers which impressed every one who approached her. The annexed sketch of this extraordinary woman is from a published source: She was born at Dundee, in Scotland, it is believed, in 1 796, and was better known by her maiden name, Fanny Wright, than by that of her husband, Darus- mont. Her father, Mr. Wright, was intimate with Dr. Adam Smith, Dr. Cullen, and other men of literary and scientific eminence in his day. Hence, probably, his daughter, Fanny, became tinctured with an ambition to distinguish herself as a propagandist of social and political novelties. At the age of eighteen she wrote a little book, called " A Few Days in Athens," in which she defended the opinions and character of Epicurus. In 1818 she visited America, where she remained three years, and soon after pub- lished her observations under the title of " V r iews on Society and Manners in Amer- ica." She afterward visited Paris in compliance with an invitation from La Fayette. After her return to America, about the year 1825, she purchased 2,000 acres of land in Tennessee, subsequently the site of Memphis, and peopled it with a num ber of slave families whom she had redeemed. In 1833, she appeared as a public lecturer. Her deep soprano voice, her com- manding figure, and marvelous eloquence, combined with her zealous attacks on negro slavery, and some other prominent features in American institutions, soon made her famous throughout our country. Her powers of oratory drewcroAvds of listeners, especially in Nc\v York: Fanny Wright Societies were formed, resemb- ling those of the French Communists. Elated by her powers of oratory, she visited all .the principal cities of the Amer- INDIANA. 175 ican Union ; but as she too frequently made the philosophy of her " Few Days in Athens " the groundwork of her discourses, she aroused the hostility of the press and the clergy. During two years she battled, as it were single-handed, by means of her pen and verbally, with her powerful foes, and kept her name ringing through- out the country. Meanwhile she had her redeemed slaves taught agricultural pur- suits, and educated in general knowledge ; but although lor a time promising well, from some cause not generally known, the experiment failed, and the slaves were sent to Hayti. She then joined Robert Owen in his Communist scheme at New Harmony, edit-' ing the Gazette, and lecturing in behalf of the enterprise, in some of the large cities and towns of the western states, but with a success which did not equal her expectations. Subsequently, Miss Wright married M. A'Drusmont, a man who pro- fessed her own system of philosophy; but they soon separated, and she resided during the remainder of her life Jin America, with an only daughter, the fruit of her marriage. Her husband's suit at law, to obtain possession of her property, added still further to her notoriety. This circumstance, and her ill health, tended to cool her political enthusiasm, if not to modify her opinions. Her experience did not, on the whole, afford much cause for self-gratulation, or furnish encouragement to others to embark in any sim- ilar enterprises for the reformation of society. She died at Cincinnati, January 13, 1853, aged 57 years. Smith eastern view in Calhoun-street, Furl Wayne. FORT WAYNE, the county seat of Allen county, is situated on the line of the Wabash and Erie Canal, at the confluence of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's Rivers, which here unite and form the Mauniee, 112 miles N.E. from Indianapolis, 110 E.N.E. from Lafayette, and 96 W. from Toledo. It is a flourishing place, and by means of its railroad, canal and plank road com- munications, is quite a center of business.. It is regularly laid out on level and fertile prairie land. About half the population are of recent foreign de- scent. Four newspapers are published in this place, one of which is in the German language. Population in 1800, 10,388. The Twightees, a branch of the Miami tribe, had a village at Fort Wayne, in their language called Ke-ki-o-que. At one time it was called " French Store," as it was for a long time a trading post of that nation, and the site of a military post. About the year 1764 the English built a fort here. Old Fort Wayne was erected here in 1794, and was continued a military post until 1819, until the removal of the Miamis and Pottawatomies, in 1841: it was resorted to by them for the disposal of their furs, and to spend their 176 INDIANA. annuities. It was against the Indian villages in this vicinity, that Harmar's expedition -was directed, the particulars of which we annex: " In the autumn of 1790, about 1,300 troops, of whom less than one fourth were regulars, marched from Cincinnati, under General llarmer, against the Indian towns on the Maumec, near the site of Fort Wayr*. When within a short dis- tance of their point of destination, Col. Hardin was detached with six hundred and fifty men. This advance, on reaching the Indian villages found them deserted. The next day, the main body having arrived, their towns, containing three hun- dred wigwams, were burnt, the fruit trees girdled, and 20,000 bushels of corn de- stroyed. While the troops were at the villages, a detachment of one hundred and fifty Kentucky militia and thirty regulars, under Col. Hardin, were sent on an In- dian trail, when they fell into an ambush of seven hundred warriors under Little Turtle. At the first fire the militia fled without firing a shot, but the thirty regu- lars resisted with the greatest obstinacy untilKa.il were killed, except two officers "and two or three privates. Ensign Armstrong was saved by falling behind a log while on the retreat, which screened him from his pursuers; while Captain Arm- strong was preserved by plunging up to his neck in a swamp. There he remained all night a spectator of the war dance over the bodies of the dead and wounded soldiers, and the shrieks of the latter, as they were tortured, mingling with the yells of the savages. When the army had proceeded one day on the return march, Col. Hardin and Maj. Willis were sent back with four hundred men, of whom sixty were regulars, to surprise the Indians, whom it was supposed would return. On entering the town a few of the enemy were seen, who immediately fled, and decoyed the iniiitia into an irregular pursuit in different directions. This being accomplished, Little Turtle fell, with his main body, upon the regulars with great fury. They threw down their guns, and with their tomahawks, rushed upon the bayonets of the sol- diers. While a soldier was engaged in the use of his bayonet upon one Indian, two others would sink their tomahawks in his head. The result was that every regular fell, together with their gallant major. Ere the conflict was over, a part of the militia who had returned from the pursuit, joined iu the contest, but were compelled to retreat, leaving the dead and wounded in the hands of the enemv. The expedition, in destroying the Indian villages, had accomplished the great object of its mission, although under circumstances of misfortune. It was suc- ceeded by such vigorous exertions, on the part of the savages, that they must have succeeded in breaking up the American settlements, were it not for the total de- struction of their property and provision* just at the approach of winter." The siege of Fort Wayne, iu the war of 1812, was a memorable event in the history of this regioi^ the particulars of which we derive from Howe's "Great West:" In August, 1812, immediately after the disgraceful surrender of Hull, about five hundred Indian warriors laid siege to Fort Wayne, a dilapidated structure of wood which had been built in Wayne's campaign, near the north-eastern corner of In- diana, at the junction of the St. Joseph s and St. Mary's Rivers, main branches of the Maumee. The garrison, amounting to less than one seventh of their number, was commanded by Capt. Rhea, an old officer broken down by intemperance, and of a timid disposition. As at that period the whole surrounding region was a wil derness, and they were far from succor, their danger was imminent. They were finally saved from the horrors of an Indian massacre, by the daring bravery and address of a young Virginian, named William Oliver. This young man, scarce twenty-one years of age, to a slender and delicate, though active iigure, united in a high degree the qualities of undaunted courage, enthusiasm, firmness, and sagacity. A resident of Fort Wayne, he was at this time, temporarily absent at Cincinnati, and learning on his return route that the Indians had appeared be- fore the fort, he voluntarily hurried back to the city to urge the troops stationed at that point to hasten to its relief. This being accomplished, he set out again with all speed toward the fort, intending to reach it, and penetrate through its swarm of surrounding savages in adv.\nce of the relief, for the purpose of encouraging the garrison to persevere in its defense until their arrival. INDIANA. 177 At St. Mary's River he came to an encampment of Ohio militia, with whom was Thomas Worthington, of Chillicothe (afterward governor of Ohio), then on t e frontier as Indian commissioner, to whom Oliver communicated his intention v. Harrison, according to his prac- tice, had risen, preparatory to the calling up the troops; and was engaged, while drawing on his boots by the fire, in conversation with Gen. Wells, Col. Owen, and Majors Taylor and Hurst. The orderly-drum had been roused for the purpose of giving the signal for the troops to turn out, when the attack of the Indians sud- denly commenced upon the left flank of the camp. The whole army was instantly on its feet; the camp-fires were extinguished; the governor mounted his horse and *M'Afee's History of the Late War. f Ibid. INDIANA. 133 proceeded to the point of attack. Several of the companies had taken their places in the line within forty seconds from the report of the first gun; and the whole of the troops were prepared for action in the course of two minutes; a fact as credit- able to their own activity and bravery, as to the skill and energy of their officers. The battle soon became general, and was maintained on both sides with signal and even desperate valor. The Indians advanced and retreated by the aid of a rattling noise, made with deer hoof's, and persevered in their treacherous attack with an ap- parent determination to conquer or die upon the spot. The battle raged with un- abated fury and mutual slaughter, until daylight, when a gallant and successful charge by our troops, drove the enemy into the swamp, and put an end to the conflict. Prior to the assault, the Prophet had given assurances to his followers, that in the coming contest, the Great Spirit would render the arms of the Americans una- vailing; that their bullets would fall harmless at the feet of the Indians; that the latter should have light in abundance, while the former would be involved in thick darkness. Availing himself of the privilege conferred by his peculiar office, and, perhaps, unwilling in his own person to attest at once the rival powers of a sham prophecy and a real American bullet, he prudently took a position on an adjacent eminence; and, when the action began, he entered upon the performance of certain mystic rites, at the same time singing a war-song. In the course of the engagement, he was informed that his men were falling: he told them to fight on, it would soon be as he had predicted ; and then, in louder and ajlder strains, his inspiring battle-song was heard commingling with the sharp cracK of the rifle and the shrill war-hoop of his brave but deluded followers. i Throughout the action, the Indians manifested more boldness and perseverance than had, perhaps, ever been exhibited by them on any former occasion. This was owinir, it is supposed, to the influence of the Prophet, who, by the aid of his incantations, had inspired them with a belief that they would certainly overcome their enemy : the supposition, likewise, that they had taken the governor's army by surprise, doubtless contributed to the desper.ite character of their assaults. They were commanded by some daring chiefs, and although their spiritual leader was not actually in the battle, he did much to encourage his followers in their gallant attack. Of the force of the Indians engaged, there is no certain account. The ordinary number at the Prophet's town during the preceding summer, was 450; but a few days before the action, they had been joined by all the Kickapoos of the prairie, and by several bands of the Pottawatomies, from the Illinois River, and the St. Joseph's, of Lake Michigan. Their number on the night of the engage- ment was probably between 8(>0 and 1,000. Some of the Indians who were in the , action, subsequently informed the agent at Fort Wayne, that there were more than 1,000 warriors in the battle, and that the number of wounded was unusually great. In the precipitation of their retreat, they left 38 on the field; some were buried during the engagement in their town, others, no doubt, died subsequently of their wounds. The whole number of their killed, was probably not less than 50. Of the army under Gov. Harrison, 35 were killed in the action, and 25 died sub- sequently of their wounds: the total number of killed and wounded was one hun- dred and eighty-eight. Both officers and men behaved with much coolness and bravery qualities which, in an eminent degree, marked the conduct of Gov. Harrison throughout the engagement. The peril to which he was subjected may be inferred from the fact that a ball passed through his stock, slightly bruising his neck; another struck his saddle, and glancing hit his thigh; and a third wounded the horse on which he was riding. Peace on the frontiers was one of the happy results of this severe and brilliant action. The tribes which had already joined in the confederacy were dismayed; and those which had remained neutral, now decided against it During the two succeeding days, the victorious army remained in camp, for the purpose of burying the dead and taking care of the wounded. In the meantime, Col. Wells, with the mounted riflemen, visited the Prophet's town, and found it deserted by all the Indians except one, whose leg had been broken in the action. 184 INDIANA. The houses were mostly burnt, and the corn around the village destroyed. * On the 9th, the army commenced its return to V r incennes, having broken up or com- mitted to the flames all their unnecessary baggage, in order that the wagons might be used for the transportation of the wounded. The defeated Indians were greatly exasperated with the Prophet: they re- proached him in bitter terms for the calamity he had brought upon them, and ac- cused him of the murder of their friends who had fallen in the action. It seems, that after pronouncing some incantations over a certain composition, which he had prepared on the night preceding the action, he assured his followers, that by the power of his art, half of the invading army was already dead, and the other half in a state of distraction ; and that the Indians would have little to do but rush into their camp, and complete the work of destruction with their toma- hawks. " You are a liar'" said one of the surviving Winnebagoes to him, after the action, " for you told us that the white people were dead or crazy, when they were all in their senses and fought like the devil." The Prophet appeared de- jected, and sought to excuse himself on the plea that the virtue of his composition had been lost by a circumstance of which he had no knowledge, until after the bat- tle was over. His sacred character, however, was so far forfeited, that the In- dians actually bound him with cords, and threatened to put him to death. After leaving the Prophet's town, they marched about 20 miles and encamped on the bank of Wild Cat creek. With the^attle of Tippecanoe, the Prophet lost his popularity and power among the Indians. His magic wand was broken, and the mysterious charm, bv means of which ho had fqr years, played upon the superstitious minds of this wild people, scattered through a vast extent of country, was dissipated forever. It was not alone to the character of his prophetic office that he was indebted for his influence over his followers. The position which be maintained in regard to the Indinn lands, and the encroachments of the white people upon their hunting grounds, increased his popularity, which was likewise greatly strengthened by the respect and defer- ence with which the politic Tecumseh the master spirit of his day uniformly treated him. He had, moreover, nimble wit, quickness of apprehension, much cunning and a captivating eloquence of speech. These qualities fitted him for playing his part with great success; and sustaining for a series of years, the char- acter of one inspired by the Great Spirit. He was, however, rash, presumptuous and deficient in judgment. And no sooner was he left without the sagacious counsel and positive control of Tecumseh, than he foolishly annihilated his own power, and suddenly crushed the grand confederacy upon which he and his broth- er had expended years of labor, and in the organization of which they had incurred much personal peril and endured great privation. Tecumseh returned from the south through Missouri, visited the tribes on the Des Moines.and crossing the head-waters of the Illinois, reached the Wabash a few days after the disastrous battle of Tippecanoe. It is believed that he made a strong impression upon all the tribes visited by him in his extended mission; and that he had laid the foundation of numerous accessions to his confederacy. He reached the banks of the Tippecanoe, just in time to witness the dispersion of his followers, the disgrace of his brother, and the final overthrow of the great object of his am- bition, a union of all the Indian tribes against the United States: and all this, the result of a disregard to his positive commands. His mortification was extreme ; and it is related on good authority, that when he first met the Prophet, he re- proached him in bitter terms for having departed from his instructions to preserve Reace with the United States at all hazards. The attempt of the Prophet to pal- ate his own conduct, excited the haughty chieftain still more, and seizing him by the hair and shaking him violently, he threatened to take his life. * The village had been destroyed in 1791, by Gen. Charles Scott, of Kentucky. In his report of the expedition, he says that " many of the inhabitants of the village were French, and lived in a state of civilization. By the books, letters, and other documents found there, it is evident that the place was in close connection with, and dependent on, Detroit: " the village "consisted of about 70 houses, many of them well finished." In November, 1S1 2, the village was destroyed the third time in the second expedition of Gen. Hopkins. INDIANA. 185 BATTLE FIELD OF TIPPECANOE. [Explanations. , point from whence the engraved view was drawn ; I />, line of railroad to Chicago; c, position of Battle Ground Institute; d, place where the Indians first began the attack ; e e, front line where occurred the main conflict; /, Gen. Harri- son's marquee; h, point where Maj. Daviess is said to have been slain ; een explored about nino miles in a canoe. It furnishes motive power for two mills and a dis- tillery. cave, ran 150 feet in daylight, and then plunging into another by a cascade of a great but unknown depth, was seen no more. Beside the towns described, Indiana contains numerous others of from 1,500 to 2,500 each. These are mostly count}- scats, some of them on rail- road lines, and places of active business. They are, Attica, in Fountain INDIANA. 193 county ; Aurora, in Dearborn county ; Cambridge City, in Wayne county ; Cannelton, in Perry county ; Columbus, in Bartholomew county ; Connersville, in Fayette county; Delphi, in Carroll county; Franltlin,\n Johnson county; Goshen, in Elkhart county; Greensburg, in Decatur county; Huntington, in Huntington county; MishawaJca, in St. Joseph county; Mt. Vernon, in Posey county; Muncie, in Delaware county; Peru, in Miami county; Prince- ton, in Gibson county; Rising Sun, in Ohio county; RocJcville, in Parke county; and Shelbyville, in Shelby county. 13 ILLINOIS. THE name of this state, Illinois, is partly Indian and partly French : it signifies real men, and was originally applied to the Indians who dwelt on the banks of the river of that name. For a long period the great tract of territory lying N.W. of the Ohio, was termed the "Illinois country." The first white men of whom we have any authentic knowledge, who tra- versed any part within the present limits of Illinois, were James Mar- quctte, a Catholic missionary, and M. Joliet, both Frenchmen from Canada. This was in 1673. The next were Robert de la Salle, a young Frenchman of noble family, and Louis Hennepin,& Franciscan friar. After leaving Chicago, La Salle and his companions proceeded down Illinois River, and reached Peoria Jan. 4, 1680. The first settlements in Illinois were made by the French, at Kaskas- kia, Caliokia, and Peoria. It clearly appears that Father Gravier began a mission among the Illinois before 1693, and became the founder of Kaskas- kia. At first it was merely a missionary station, and the inhabitants of the village consisted entirely of natives; the other villages, Peoria and Cahokia, seem at first to have been of the same kind. At the beginning of the eighteenth century, the settlements in Illinois are represented to have been in a flourishing condition. Kaskaskia had become a considerable town before any great progress had been made on the lower Mississippi. The French writers of this period give glowing descriptions of the beauty, fertility, and mineral wealth of the country, and to add to its attractions, a monastery of Jesuits was established at Kaskaskia. From the beginning to the middle of the eighteenth century, but little is related. Disputes arose, between England and France, respecting the boun- daries of their different colonies, which, unhappily, had never been sufficient- ly defined. The French, anticipating a struggle for the preservation of their American possessions, strengthened their fortifications on the Great Lakes, on the Ohio, the Wabash, the Illinois, and in other parts of the valley of 195 ARKS or ILI.INOIS. 196 ILLINOIS. the Mississippi. The British, on the other hand, claimed the country on the Ohio, and in the vicinity, by virtue of their ancient discoveries and the char- ters which they had granted. The Ohio Company, which was formed soon after, produced hostilities between the two nations. On the termination of the French war, by which Great Britain obtained possession of Canada, the whole of the Illinois country also came into their possession. The total white population could not then have exceeded 3,000. The following descriptions of the French settlements at this period, and there were none other in Illinois, we find in Perkins' Annals, the edition by J. M. Peck. It is there copied from " The Present State of the European Settlements on the Mississippi, by Capt. Philip Pitman," published in Lin- don in 1770: "The village of Notre Dame de Cascasquias (Kaskaskia), is by far the most con- siderable settlement in the country of the Illinois, as well from its number of in- habitants, as from its advantageous situation. Mons. Paget was the first who introduced water-mills in this country, and he constructed a very fine one on the River Cascasquias, which was both for grinding corn and sawing boards. It lies about one mile from the village. The mill proved fatal to him, being killed as he was working it, with two negroes, by a party of the Cherokees, in the year 1764. The principal buildings are, the church and the Jesuits' house, which has a small chapel adjoining it; these, as well as some other houses in the village, are built of stone, and, considering this part of the world, make a very good appear- ance. The Jesuits' plantation consisted of two hundred and forty arpents (a little over 200 acres) of cultivated land, a very good stock of cattle, and a brewery ; which was sold by the French commandant, after the country was ceded to the English, for the crown, in consequence of the suppression of the order. Mons. Beauvais was the purchaser, who is the richest of the English subjects in this country; he keeps eighty slaves; he furnishes eighty-six thousand weight of flour to the king's magazine, which was only a part of the harvest he reaped in one year. Sixty-five families reside in this village, besides merchants, other casual people, and slaves. The fort, which was burnt down in October, 1766, stood on the sum- mit of a high rock opposite the village, and on the opposite side of the (Kaskaskia) river. It was an oblongular quadrangle, of which the exterior polygon measured two hundred and ninety by two hundred and fifty-one feet. It was built of very thick squared timber, and dove-tailed at the angles. An officer and twenty sol- diers are quartered in the village. The officer governs the inhabitants, under the direction of the commandant at Chartres. Here also are two companies of militia." Prairie du Rocher. or "La Prairie de Roches," as Captain Pitman has it, is next described "As about seventeen (fourteen) miles from Cascasquias. It is a small village, consisting of twelve dwelling-houses, all of which are inhabited by as many fami- lies. Here is a little chapel, formerly a chapel of ease to the church at Fort Chartres. The inhabitants here are very industrious, and raise a great deal of corn and every kind of stock. The village is two miles from Fort Chartres. [This means Little Village, which was a mile, or more, nearer than the fort.] Jt takes its name from its situation, being built under a rock that runs parallel with the River Mississippi at a league distance, for forty miles up. Here is sr company of militia, the captain of which regulates the police of the village." Saint Phillippe is a small village about five miles from Fort Chartres, on the road to Kaoquias. There are about sixteen houses and a small church standing; all of the inhabitants, except the captain of the militia, deserted it in 1765, and went to the French side (Missouri). The captain of the militia has about twenty slaves, a good stock of cattle, and a water-mill for corn and planks. This village stands in a very fine meadow, about one mile from the Mississippi." "The village of Saint Famille de Kaoquias," so Pitman writes, "is generally ILLINOIS. 197 reckoned fifteen leagues from Fort Chartres, and six leagues below the mouth of the Missouri. It stands near the side of the Mississippi, and is marked from the river by an island of two leagues long. The village is opposite the center of this island ; it is long and straggling, being three quarters of a mile from one end to the other. It contains forty-five dwelling-houses, and a church near its center. The situation is not well chose-n, as in the floods it is generally overflowed two or three feet. This was the first settlement on the Mississippi. The land was pur- chased of the savages by a few Canadians, some of whom married women of the Kaoqnias nation, and others brought wives from Canada, and then resided there, leaving their children to succeed them. The inhabitants of this place depend more on hunting, and their Indian trade, than on agriculture, as they scarcely raise corn enough for their own consumption; they have a great plenty of poultry, and good stocks of horned cattle. The mission of St. Sulpiee had a very fine plantation here, and an excellent house built on it. They sold this estate and a very good mill for corn and planks, to a Frenchman who chose to remain under the English government. They also disposed of thirty negroes and a good stock of cattle to different people in the country, and returned to France in 1764. What is called the fort is a small house standing in the center of the village. It differs nothing from the other houses, ex- cept in being one of the poorest. It was formerly inclosed with high pallisades, but these were torn down and burnt. Indeed, a fort at this place could be of but little use." The conquest of Illinois from the British, in 1778, by Gen. Geo. Rogers Clark, when he took possession of the forts of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and St. Vincent, the latter now the Vincennes of Indiana, was one of the most romantic episodes in our western history. It made known the fertile plains of Illinois to the people of the Atlantic states, exciting an emigration to the banks of the Mississippi. Some of those in that expedition afterward were among the first emigrants. Prior to this, the only settlements in Illinois, were the old French villages of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, Peoria, Prairie du llocher, Fort Chartres, Fort Massac, Village a Cote, Prairie du Pont, and a few families scattered Tilong the Wabash and Illinois. In October, 1778, the general assembly of Virginia passed an act to organize the county of Illinois. In 178-t, Virginia ceded her claims to the territory north-west of the Ohio to the United States. This, by the ordinance of 1787, was erected into the Worth-west Territory. Still the Illinois country remained without any organized government until March, 1790, when Gov. St. Clair organized St. Clair county. * The first settlement in Illinois by emigrants from the United States, was in 1781, near Bcllefontaine, Monroe bounty, in the south-western part of the state. It was made by James Moore, with his family, accompanied by James Garrison, Robert Kidd, Shadrach Bond, and Larken Rutherford. Their route out was through tho wilderness from Virginia to the Ohio, then down that stream to the Mississippi, and up the latter to Kaskaskia. Part of them settled in the American bottom, near Harrisonville. This station afterward became known as the block-house fort. Othor parties joined them and the settlements increased. They, however, suffered much from the Indians until Wayne's treaty, in 1795, brought peace. Many were killed, others taken captives, and often while laboring in the field they were obliged to carry their rifles, and also often at night compelled to keep guard. In 1800, Illinois formed part of a separate territory by the name of In- diana, in conjunction with the state now bearing that name. A second di- vision took place in 1809, and the western portion of Indiana was formed into a separate territory bearing the name of Illinois. In 1818, Illinois was erected into a separate state. Hon. Niuian Edwards, chief justice of Ken- tucky, was chosen governor, and Nathaniel Pope, Esq., secretary. Since that period it has rapidly gone forward, increasing in population, wealth and power. 198 ILLINOIS. In the year 1812, Gen. Hull, who surrendered Detroit into the hands of the British, directed Capt. Heald, who commanded Fort Dearborn, at Chi- cago, to distribute his stores to the Indians, and retire to Fort Wayne. Not having full confidence in the Indians, he threw the powder into the well and wasted the whisky. As these were the articles they most wanted, they were so exasperated that they fell upon the garrison, after they had proceeded two miles from the fort, and massacred 41 of them, with 2 women and 12 chil- dren, the latter tomahawked in a wagon by one young savage. In 1840, the Mormons being driven out of Missouri, located a city on the east bank of the Mississippi River, which they called Nauvoo. They had extraordinary privileges granted them by the state. But here, as elsewhere, numerous difficulties arose between them and the inhabitants in the vicinity. The military were called out by the governor to suppress the disorders which arose. Joseph Smith, the Mormon prophet and leader, with his brother Hiram, were imprisoned in a jail in Carthage. On June 27, 1844, they were both killed by a mob, which broke into their place of confinement. The Mormons, soon after this event, began their movement toward the Rocky Mountains. At the time of the first settlement of Illinois by the French, it is sup- posed that within the present limits of the state, there were some eight or nine thousand Indians. They are described, by travelers, as having been re- markably handsome, kind, and well mannered. When the French first came they were feasted by the natives in four courses, the first of hominy, the second of fish, the third of dog, which the Frenchmen appear to have de- clined, and the whole concluded with roasted buffalo. Few or none of the descendants of the tribes occupying this region, now linger within or around it, their titles having been extinguished from time to time by treaties with 'the United States government. The white inhabitants were somewhat annoyed by hostile Indians during the war of 1812, and also in 1832, during the prevalence of the "Black Hawk war," which created much distress and alarm in the northern part of the state. Illinois is bounded N. by Wisconsin, E. by the southein portion of Lake Michigan, by the state of Indiana, and by the Ohio River, S. by the Ohio River, dividing it from Kentucky, and W. by the Mississippi River, divid- ing it from Missouri and Iowa. It lies between 37 and 42 30' N. lat., and 87 17' and 91 50' W. long., being about 380 miles in its extreme length from N. to S., and about 200 in its greatest and 140 in its average breadth from E. to W., containing upward of 35,000,000* of acres, of which, in 1850, only 5,175,173 acres were improved, showing an immense capability for in- crease of population in this very fertile state, which has scarcely any soil but that is capable of cultivation. The surface is generally level, and it has no mountains. About two thirds of it consists of immense prairies, presenting to view, in some places, immense plains extending as far as the eye can reach, beautifully covered with grass, herbage and flowers. These prairies are generally skirted with wood, near which are settlements. They are also, in many places, inter- spersed with groups of trees. The largest prairie in Illinois is denominated the Grand Prairie. Under this general name is embraced the country lying between the waters falling into the Mississippi, and those which enter the Wabash Rivers. It does not consist of one vast tract, but is made up of continuous tracts with points of timber projecting inward, and long arms of prairie extending between. The ILLINOIS. southern points of the Grand Prairie are formed in Jackson county, and ex- tend in a north-eastern course, varying in width from one to twelve miles, through Perry, Washington, Jefferson, Marion, Fayette, Effingham, Coles, Champaign, and Iroquois counties, where it becomes connected with the prairies that project eastward from the Illinois River. A large arm lies in Marion county, between the waters of Crooked creek and the east fork of the Kaskaskia River, where the Vincennes road passes through. This part alone is frequently called the Grand Prairie. For agricultural purposes, Illinois is unsurpassed by any state in the Union. In some of her river bottoms the rich soil is 25 feet deep. The great American bottom, lying on the Mississippi, 80 miles in length, is of exceeding fertility, and has been cultivated for 100 years without apparent deterioration. Illinois is the greatest corn producing state in the Union; its yield in 1860 was estimated at 100,000,000 of bushels, and the average yield per acre at over 50 bushels. Illinois is rich in minerals. In the north-west part of the state vast beds of lead ore abound. Bituminous coal is found in almost every county, and may be often obtained without excavation. Iron ore is found in many local- ities, and copper, zinc, etc. There are salt springs in the southern part of the state from which salt is manufactured, and also medicinal springs in va- rious places. Illinois is most favorably situated for internal commerce. By means of the great rivers on her borders, Lake Michigan at the north-east, and by her magnificent system of railroads, she has great facilities for com- ir.unication in every direction. Population, in 1810, was 12,282; in 1830, 157,445; in 1850,851,470; in 1860, 1,691,238. CHICAGO, the most populous commercial city of the north-west, is on the western side of Lake Michigan, about 30 miles northward from its south end, at the mouth of Chicago River, on the margin of a prairie of several miles in width. It is 928 miles from New York, 278 from Detroit, 180 from Ga- lena, 285 from St. Louis, 300 from Cincinnati, and 183 from Springfield. Population, in 1840, 4,853; in 1850, 29,963; and in 1860, 109,420. The following sketch of the history of Chicago is given in a recent pub- lication : The first explorers of Lake Michigan, the first white men to pitch their tents on the Chicago prairie, and to haul up their boats upon its river banks and lake shore, were the French Jesuit missionaries and fur traders, under the guidance of Nicho- las Perrot, who was also acting as the agent of the government in the west. This was in the latter part of the year 1669. At that time this territory was in the pos- session of the Miami tribe of Indians, but subsequently the Pottawatomies crowded back the Miamis, and became the sole possessors, until the year 1795, when they became parties to the treaty with Wayne, by which a tract of land six miles square at the mouth of the Chicago River, was ceded to the United States the first ex- tinction of Indian title to the land on which Chicago is built. For nearly a hun- dred years during the time of the French possession, and after its cession to the English, Chicago has little mention in history. During this time it is only known from incidental circumstances, that in those dark days of French possession, there was a fort near the mouth of the river, that there were Indian villages near the Calumet and on the Des Plaines, that here were the roving grounds of the Pottawatomies, and that from the head waters of the Illinois to the Chicago River, was the common portage for the trade and tran- sit of the goods and furs between the Indians and the traders, and that the ship- ping point was from the port at Chicago. The few white men who were there 200 ILLINOIS. were there not for the purpose of making settlements, but simply to carry on a trade with the Indians, the gain from which must have been of no inconsiderable amount. They were men of limited education, and could not have been expected to have any accounts of their adventures. This state of things existed until the close of the general western Indian war, soon after the termination of the war of the revolution. During this war the intrigue of the English was constantly excit- ing the Indians to warfare, to such a degree that, after peace was declared betweeo Chicago in 1831. Fort Dearborn is seen in the central part, on a slightly elevated point, on the south side of Chicago River, near the lake shore shown in front. the old and the new country, a general war of the Indians against the United States broke out. This war continued until 1795, when, after having been severely punished by Gen. Wayne, the chiefs of the several tribes assembled, by his invi- tation, at Greenville, Ohio, and there effected a treaty of peace, thus closing the war of the west. In this treaty numerous small tracts of land were ceded by the Indians to the states, and among them wjis one described as "one piece of land six miles square, at the mouth of Chicajo (Chicago) River, emptying into the south- west end of Lake Michigan, where a fort formerly stood.' This may be called the first " land sale," and which has been the precursor to a business which has entailed to its participants independence and wealth. But lit- tle time passed before the proprietors thought best to enter upon active possession, and in 1804 a fort was built upon the spot by government. This fort remained until the year 1816, when it was destroyed by the Indians, at the time of the mas- sacre. This fort was called Fort Dearborn, a name which it retained during its existence. Its location was upon a slightly elevated point on the south side of the river, near the lake shore, and commanded a good view of the lake, the prairie extending to the south, the belt of timber along the south branch and the north branch, and the white sand hills to the north and south, which had for so many years been the sport of the lake winds. Up to the time of the erection of this fort, no white man had made here his home, the Pottawatomie Indians having undis- puted sway. After the establishment of the garrison, there gathered here a few families of French Canadians and half-breeds, none of whom possessed more than ordinary intelligence. The only link in the chain of civilization which admits of identity, existed in the Kinzie family, who came here to reside in 1804, the same year in which the fort was built, John Kinzie, then an Indian trader in the St. Joseph country, Michigan, in that year became the first permanent white resident of Chicago, and to him is due the honor of establishing many of the improvements which have made Chicago what it is. For nearly twenty years he was, with the exception of the militarv, the only white inhabitant of northern Illinois. During the years from 1804 to 1820, the lake trade was 'carried on by a small sail vessel, coming in in the ILLINOIS. fall and spring, bringing the season's supply of goods and stores for the fort, and taking away the stock of furs and peltries which had accumulated. Mr. Kinzie pursued the business of fur trading until the breaking out of hostilities with the Indians, which resulted in the massacre of 1812. The friendly feelings which had been cultivated between himself and the Indians, preserved himself and family from the fate which befell his neighbors of the fort. Removing for a time, in 1816 he returned to Chicago, and reopened the trade with the Indians, re- siding there until the time of his death, in 1828. It was a saying with the Indians that " the first white man who settled there was a negro," by which was meant Jean Baptiste Point-au-Sable, who, in 1796, built the first house in Chicago, which he afterward sold to Le Mai, who subsequently Bold it to Mr. Kinzie. In 1812 there were but five houses outside of the fort, all of which, with the exception of that owned by Mr. Kinzie, were destroyed at the time of the massacre. In August, 1816, a treaty was concluded by commissioners appointed by the government, with the various Indian tribes, by which the coun- try between Chicago and the waters of the Illinois River was ceded to the United States on the 4th of July. In the same year, the troops again returned to their former locality, and a new fort was erected, under the direction of Capt. Hezekiah Bradley, then commander. It stood upon the same ground as the former one, and remained until the summer of 1856, when it was demolished to make room for the increasing amount of business. The reoccupancy of the fort by the troops continued until May, 1823, after which time it was occupied by the Indian agent, and used for the temporary accommoda- tion of families of residents recently arrived. On the 10th of August, 1828, the fort was again occupied by a company of volunteers, and afterward by two companies of regular troops, under the command of Major Fowle and Captain Scott. These last remained until May, 1831, when the fort was given in charge of George W. Dole, as agent for the government. On the breaking out of the Black Hawk war, in 1832, it was reoccupied by a detachment under Gen. Scott, until the removal of the Indians, in 1836, and, until near the time of its demolition, was held by the government for the occasional use of its army officers, engineers and agents connected with the public works. From 1816 to 1830, Chicago had gained the number of twelve or fifteen houses, with a population of less than one hundred. In 1818, the public square, where now stands the court house, was a pond, on whose banks the Indians had trapped the muskrat, and where the first settlers hunted ducks. This pond had an outlet in a "slough," as it was then called, which passed over the present site of theTremont House, entering the river at the end of State-street. Along the shores of the river the wild onion was found in great abundance, to which the Indians gave the name Chi kajo, and from which the city doubtless derived its name. In the autumn of 1829, the town of Chicago was laid out, which is the part now known on the maps as the ''original town." The site of Chicago is low, being but about five feet above the lake, but sufficiently elevated to prevent inundation. " The general direction of the lake shore here, is north and south. The water, except at the mouth of the river, is shoal, and vessels missing the entrance ground, go to pieces in a Btonn, within 100 rods of the shore. The harbor of Chicago is the river, and nothing more. It is a short, deep, sluggish stream, creeping through the black, fat mud of the prairie, and in some places would hardly be thought worthy of a name; but it makes itself wonderfully useful here. Outside of its mouth a vessel has no protection, nor are there any piers or wharves. The mouth of the river has been docked and dredged out, to afford a more easy entrance; but, after you are once in, it narrows to a mere canal, from 50 to 75 yards in width. The general course of the river, for about three fourths of a mile, is at right angles with the lake shore, and this portion is what is known as the, Chicago River. It here divides, or, more properly, two brunches unite to form it, coming from opposite directions, and at nearly 202 ILLINOIS. right angles to the main stream. These are called, respectively, the 'North Branch ' and the ' South Branch,' and are each navigable for some four miles, giving, in the aggregate, a river front of some 15 or 16 miles, capable of being increased by canals and slips, some of which have already been con- structed. Into the ' South Branch' comes ,the Illinois canal, extending from this point 100 miles to Lasalle, on the Illinois River, forming water commu- nication between the lakes and the Mississippi. For the want of a map, take the letter H; call the upright column on the right hand the lake shore; let the cross-bar represent Chicago River, the left hand column will stand for the two branches, and you have a plan of the water lines of the city of Chicago, which will answer very well for all purposes of general description. The Court House, Chicago. The view is from the north. The material is of blue lime stone, from Lockport, New York. On the left is the Mechanic's Institute Hall. The three divisions thus formed are called, respectively, ' North Side,' 'South Side,' ' West Side.' In this narrow, muddy river, lie the heart and strength of Chicago. Dry this up, and Chicago would dry up with it, mean and dirty as it looks. From the mouth of the St. Joseph River, in Michi- gan, round to Milwaukie, in the state of Wisconsin, a distance, by the lake shore, of more than 250 miles, Chicago is the only place where 20 vessels can be loaded or unloaded, or find shelter in a storm. A glance at the map, then, will show that it is the only accessible port and hence the commer- cial center of a vast territory, measuring thousands of square miles of the richest agricultural country in the world. On this fact, and not on the pres- ent actual value, are really based those fabulous prices of corner lots and wharf improvements, which have sometimes provoked the sneers of the skeptic." Chicago is regularly laid out with streets crossing at right angles, and ia adorned with many magnificent buildings of brick and stone, public and ILLINOIS. 203 private, comparing well with any city in this country or any other. The shore of the lake and northern parts of the city, are occupied with the finest af residences. Some of the most remarkable public buildings are, the Court [louse, the Merchants Exchange, the Marine Hospital, the Medical College, the Second Presbyterian Church, etc. Burch's and Wadsworth's blocks, on Lake-street, are rows of iron front stores, that, in extent and beauty, have no squal in any business houses in any city of Europe. A very elegant building material has recently been brought into use. It is found in great> abundance about 20 miles from the city, on the line of the [llinois canal. " It is a compact lime-stone, of a pale yellow shade, some- what lighter than the celebrated Caen stone of France, now so fashionable in New York. The grain is so fine that the fracture, or cut surface, resembles that of chalk in texture. It is durable, ie easily wrought, and the color is peculiarly pleasing and grateful to the eye. There is another stone of simi- tar texture, of the color of freshly fractured slate, or of the mark made on i slate by a pencil; but it is not so beautiful as the kind before mentioned. Et soils readily, and has, at a short distance, the effect of a dirty white. Ihere are also other architectural stones in considerable abundance and va- riety; but none of great beauty or importance have come under our ob- servation. The Presbyterian Church on Wabash Avenue, is built of a blue, bituminous lime-stone, the pitchy matter of which has exuded and run down the sides, giving the building the appearance of having a partial coat of tar. The general impression it produces, is that of great antiquity; and if this idea could be preserved and harmonized by the early pointed gothic, and a good growth of ivy, the effect would be very fine." Until 1856, most of the streets of Chicago were planked, and the build- ings then erected were generally without cellars. As a consequence, in the spring of the year, the ground asserted its original character of swamp. The planks actually floated, and as the heavy wagons passed along, the muddy water gushed out on every side. Since 1856, such a grade has been estab- lished, that when finished, will raise the entire city from two to five feet. " There is, with almost every block of buildings, a change of grade, some- times of one foot, sometimes of three feet, sometimes of five. These ascents or descents are made by steps, or by short, steep, inclined planes of board?., with or without cleats or cross pieces, to prevent slipping, according to the ftlncy of the adjoining proprietor who erects them. The profile of a Chicago sidewalk would resemble the profile of the Erie canal, where the locks are most plenty. It is one continual succession of ups and downs. The reason of this diversity is, that it was found necessary, at an early period in the history of the place, to raise the grade of the streets. It was afterward found necessary to raise the "grade still higher, and again still higher as each building is erected, its foundation and the sidewalk adjoining have been made to correspond to the grade then last established, and so it will not happen until the city is entirely rebuilt, that the proper grade will be uniformly at- tained. In the mean time, the present state of things will repress undue curiosity in the streets, and keep fire-engines off the sidewalks, which is a great point gained." The process of raising of the houses and stores, in Chicago, is one of great interest, literally, a method of digging a great city out of the mud. "Build- ings of brick, or stone, 150 feet by 200, and five stories high, are raised up several feet by a system of screws, without a crack or the displacement of a single thing. A hotel contracts to be lifted up. In a short time 2,000 19 204 ILLINOIS. screws are under it, and little by little the house rises. Nothing is changed within. The kitchen cooks, the dirining-roora eats, the bar drinks, and all the rooms smoke, as if nothing was troinii: on! A block of stores and offices Raising a Block of Buildings in Chicago. The entire block on the north side of Lake-street, extending from Clark to La Salle-strect, having a front of :-J2(t feet 18 shown in the. process of being raised up four feet and two thirds, by 6,000 screws placed un- der it ; tnrjied, at signals, by a force of 600 men. Most of the stores aro 180 feet deep, and five days were consumed in the task. begins this new process of growth, an/I all the tenants maintain their usual functions ; and, except the outrageous neaps of dirt and piles of lumber, every- thing goes on as before. The plank into the door gets a little steeper every day. But goods come in and go out, and customers haunt the usual places." The most remarkable feat of the kind occurred in Chicago, in the spring of 1860, when an immense block was raised. This is shown in our engrav- ing, and thus described in the Chicago Press and Tribune of the time, under the caption of ''The Great Building Raising" For the past week the marvel and the wonder of our citizens and visitors has been the spectacle of a solid front of first class business blocks, comprising the en- tire block on the north side of Lake-street, between Clark and La Salle-streets, a length of 3l!0 feet, being raised about four feet by the almost resistless lifting force of fi,000 screws. The block comprises 13 first class stores, and a large double marble structure, the Marine Hank Building. Its subdivisions are a five-story marble front block ILLINOIS. 205 of three stores ; a second four-story block of throe stores, and a five-story block or four stores, at the corner of Clark-street these all presenting an unbroken front, in the heart of our city, and filled with occupants. This absence from annoyance to the merchants and the public is due to the skill with which the contractors have hung the sidewalks to the block itself, and carried up the same with the rise of the building. The block has been raised four feet eight inches, the required hight, in five days, ending with Friday last, and the ma- sons are now busy putting in the permanent supports. The entire work will oc- cupy about four weeks. An estimate from a reliable source makes the entire weight thus raised to be about 35,000 tuns. So carefully has it been done, that not a pane of glass has been broken, nor a crack in masonry appeared. The internal order of the block has prevailed undisturbed. The process of raising, as indicated above, is by the screw, at 6,000 of which, three inches in diameter and of three eighths thread, 600 men have been employed, each man in charge of from eight to ten screws. A complete system of signals was kept in operation, and by these the workmen passed, each through his series, giving each screw a quarter turn, then returning to repeat the same. Five days' labor saw the immense weight rise through four feet eight inches, to where it now stands on temporary supports, rapidly being replaced by permanent foundations. The work, as it stands, is worth going miles to see, and has drawn the admiration of thousands within the past week. The bridges of Chicago are among the curiosities of the place. The nu- merous branches of the river require a large number of bridges. The river being navigable, and but little below the level of the streets, compels all of these to be made draw bridges. These are hung in the middle, and turn South icest View of the Railroad Depot, Grain Houses, Chicago. The Illinois Central Passenger, and DIP freight depot, etc., are seen in the central piirt. Sturgpg and Buckingham 1 !! grain houses standing on the lake shore, appear on the right ; each of which will contain 7.1(1,01)0 bushels of grain ; enough, it is estimated, to feed the entire population of the city for live years; 225.000 bushels can be received and stored in each of them in a single day. , on a pivot, the motive power being two men standing there with a cross-bar. The operation of turning a bridge, occupies about two minutes. While the process is going on, a closely packed row of vehicles, sometimes, accumulates of a quarter of a mile in length. Policemen are stationed at either end, to prevent persons from driving, jumping, or being pushed into the water. The manufacturing establishments of Chicago are numerous, consisting of 206 ILLINOIS. iron foundries and machine shops, steam flouring, saw and planing mills, manufactories of agricultural implements, etc. Numerous steamboats and vessels ply between this place and Buffalo, and the various places on the Upper Lakes, and a direct trade is had, by sailing vessels, with Europe, via the lakes, Welland canal, River St. Lawrence, and the Atlantic Ocean. The city is a great shipping point for an immense and fertile region. The Illinois and Michigan canal is 60 feet wide at the top, six feet deep, and 107 miles long, including five miles of river navigation. Through this is brought a large amount of produce from the south and south-west. This and the railroads radiating from Chicago, add to the vast accumulation which is shipped here for the Atlantic sea-board. Chicago is within a short distance from extensive coal fields, and is the natural outlet for the produce of one of the richest agricultural sections of the Union. Great quantities of lumber are also brought here by l$ike navigation. The imports of Chicago, in 1858, a year of general depression, were 691,000,000, and the exports $83,000,000 in value, equal to one quarter of the whole foreign commerce of the United States. The tunnage was 67, 000 tuns, seven eighths of which was in sailing crafts, and the remainder by steamers. The grain trade of Chicago is, perhaps, the greatest of any place in the world, averaging, at present, about 30,000,000 of bushels yearly. The grain houses are all situated on the bank of the river and its branches, with rail- road tracks running in the rear, so that a train of cars loaded with grain may be standing opposite one end of a large elevating warehouse, being emptied by elevators, at the rate of from 6 to 8,000 bushels per hour, while at the other end the same grain may be running into a couple of pro- pellers, and be on its way to Buffalo, Montreal, and other pUvces within six or seven hours. The Illinois Central Railroad grain warehouses can discharge 12 cars loaded with grain, and also load two vessels at once, at the rate of 24,000 bushels per hour ; or receive from 24 cars at once, at the rate of 8,000 bush- els per hour. With the present conveniences, it is estimated that in every 10 hours half a million of bushels of grain can be handled. The university of Chicago, a well endowed institution, originated in 1854, in a generous donation from the Hon. Stephen A. Douglass of 10 acres, comprising part of a beautiful grove, adjacent to the southern limitg of the city. It has. in all its departments, about 200 students. John C Burroughs, D.D., is president. The most thrilling event in the history of Illinois, was the " massacre at Chicago," in the last war with Great Britain. There were then but five houses outside of the fort, at this point, then the trading station of John Kinzie, ''the Father of Chicago." The garrison numbered about 75 men, many of them old and inefficient soldiers. The officers in command, were Capt. Heald, Lieut. Helm, and Ensign B-onan, the latter a very young man, high spirited and honorable. On Aug. 7, 1812, Catfish, a distinguished Pottawatomie chief, arrived from Detroit, bringing dispatches from Gen. Hull, giving orders to Capt. Heald to evacuate the fort and distribute all the United States property, in the fort and factory, to the Indians, and then retire to Fort Wayne, on the site of the city of that name in Indiana. ILLINOIS. 207 These ill timed, and as it proved afterward, fatal orders of Hull, were obeyed, so far as to evacuate the fort; but even this was done by Heald, in spite of the remonstrances of his officers, who were satisfied of the evil de- signs of the Indians. On the 12th, a council was held with the Indians, at which Capt. Heald informed them of his intention to distribute among them the goods stored in the factory, together with the ammunition and provisions of the garrison. On the next day the goods were disposed of as promised; but fearing the Indians might make a bad use of liquor and ammunition, Heald gave orders for their destruction. During the night the contents of the liquor barrels were poured into the river, and the powder thrown into the well. This coming to the knowledge of the Indians, exasperated them to a high degree, as they prized these articles more than all the rest. The 15th of August was the day fixed for leaving the post. The day pre- vious, Capt. Wells, a relative of Capt. Heald, arrived with an escort of 15 friendly Miami Indians from Fort Wayne. He had heard of the orders for the evacuation of the fort, and realizing the danger of the garrison incum- bered with the women and children, marching through the territory of the hostile Pottawatomies, hastened to dissuade his relative from leaving the fort. But he arrived too late, steps had been taken, which made it as equally dangerous to remain. " The fatal morning of the 15th, at length arrived. All things were in readiness, and nine o'clock was the hour named for starting. Mr. Kinzie had volunteered to accompany the troops in their march, and had entrusted his family to the care of some friendly Indians, who had promised to convey them in a boat around the head of Lake Michigan to a point on the St Joseph's River; there to be joined by the troops, should the prosecution of their march be permitted them. Early in the morning Mr. Kinzie received a message from To pee-nee-bee, a chief of the St. Joseph's band, informing him that mischief was inteuded by the Pottawatomies who had engaged to escort the detachment; and urging him to relinquish his de- sign of accompanying the troops by land, promising him that the boat containing himself and family, sliould be permitted to pass in safety to St. Joseph's. Mr. Kinzie declined, according to this proposal, as he believed that his presence might operate as a restraint upon the fury of the savages, so warmly were the greater part of them attached to himself and his family. The party in the boat consisted of Mrs. Kinzie and her four younger children, their nurse Grutte, a clerk of Mr. Kinzie's, two servants and the boatmen, beside the two Indians who acted as their protectors. The boat started, but had scarcely reached the mouth of the river, which, it will be recollected, was here half a mile below the fort, when another messenger from To-pee-nee-bee arrived, to detain them where they were. In breathless expectation sat the wife and mother. She was a woman of uncommon energy and strength of character, yet her heart died within her as she folded her arms around her helpless infants, and gazed upon the march of her hus- band and eldest child to certain destruction. As the troops left the fort, the band struck up the Dead March. On they came in military array, but with solemn mien. Capt. Wells took the lead at the head of hia little band of Miamis. He had blackened his face before leaving the garri- son, in token of his impending fate. They took their route along the lake shore. When they reached the point where commenced a range of sand hills, inter- vening between the prairie and the beach, the escort of Pottawatomies, in num- ber about 500, kept the level of the prairie, instead of continuing along the beach with the Americans and Miamis. They had marched about half a mile south ot the present site of the Hound House of the Illinois Central Railroad, when Capt. Wells, who had kept somewhat in advance with his Miamis, came riding fu- riously back. ' They are about to attack us,' shouted he ; ' form, instantly, and charge upon them. 1 Scarcely were the words uttered, when a volley was showered from among the sand hills. The troops were hastily brought into line, and 208 ILLINOIS. charged up the bank. One man, a veteran of 70 winters, fell as they ascended. The remainder of the scene is best described in the words of an eye-witness and participator in the tragedy, Mrs. Helm, the wife of Capt. (then Lieutenant) Helm, and step-daughter of Mr. Kinzie." '' After we had left the bank, the firing became general. The Miamis fled at the outset. Their chief rode up to the Pottawatomies and said: 'You have de- ceived the Americans and us. You have done a bad action, and (brandishing his tomahawk) I will be first to head a party of Americans to return and pun- ish your treachery." So saying, he galloped after his companions, who were now scouring across the prairies. The troops behaved most gallantly. They were but a handful, but they seemed resolved to sell their lives as dearly as possible. Our horses pranced and bounded, and could hardly be restrained as the balls whistled among them. I drew off a little, and gazed upon my husband and father, who were yet unharmed. I felt that my hour was come, and endeavored to forget those I loved, and prepare my self for my approaching fate. "While I was thus engaged, the surgeon, Dr. Van Voorhees, came up. He was badly wounded. His horse had been shot under him, and he had received a ball in his leg. Every muscle of his face was quivering with the agony of terror. He said to me 'Do you think they will take our lives? I am badly wounded, but I think not mortally. Perhaps we might purchase our lives by promising them a large reward. Do you think there is any chance ? ' " ' Dr. Van Voorhees,' said I, ' do not let us waste the few moments that yet re- main to us, in such vain hopes. Our fate is inevitable. In a few moments we must appear before the bar of God. Let us make what preparation is yet in our power. " ' Oh ! I can not die,' exclaimed he, 'I am not fit to die if I had but a short time to prepare death is awful!' I pointed to Ensign Ronan, who, though mor- tally wounded and nearly down, was still fighting, with desperation, on one knee. " 'Look at that man,' said T, 'at least he dies like a soldier.' 'Yes,' replied the unfortunate man, with a convulsive gasp, ' but he has no terrors of the future he is an unbeliever!' " At this moment a young Indian raised his tomahawk at me. By springing aside, I avoided the blow which was intended for my skull, but which alighted on my shoulder. I siezed him around the neck, and while exerting my utmost efforts to get possession of his scalping-knife, which hung in a scabbard over his breast, I was dragged from his grasp by another and an older Indian. The latter bore me, struggling and resisting, toward the lake. Notwithstanding the rapidity with which I was hurried along, I recognized, as I passed them, the lifeless remains of the unfortunate surgeon. Some murderous tomahawk had stretched him upon the very spot where I had last seen him. 1 was immediately plunged into the water and held there with a forcible hand, notwithstanding my resistance. I soon per- ceived, however, that the object of my captor was not to drown me, for he held me firmly, in such a position as to place my head above water. This reassured me, and regarding him attentively, I soon recognized, in spite of the paint with which he was disguised, The Black Partridge. " When the firing had nearly subsided, my preserver bore me from the water and conducted me up the sand-banks. It was a burning August morning, and walking through the sand in my drenched condition, was inexpressibly painful and fatiguing. I stooped and took off my shoes to free them from the sand, with which they were nearly filled, when a squaw siezed and carried them off, and I was obliged to proceed without them. " When we had gained the prairie, I was met by my father, who told me that my husband was safe but slightly wounded. They led me gently back toward the Chicago River, along the southern bank of which was the Pottawatomie encamp- ment. At one time I was placed upon a horse without a saddle, but finding the motion insupportable, I sprang off. Supported partly by my kind conductor, Black Partridge, and partly by another Indian, Pee-so-tum, who held dangling in ILLINOIS. 209 his hand a scalp, which by the black ribbon around the queue, I recognized as that of Capt. Wells, I dragged my fainting steps to one of the wigwams. "The wife of Wau-bee-nee-inah, a chief from the Illinois Hiver, was standing near, and seeing my exhausted condition she siezed a kettle, dipped up some water from a stream that flowed near, threw into it some maple sugar, and stirring it up with her hand gave it me to drink. This act of kindness, in the midst of so many many horrors, touched me most sensibly, but my attention was soon diverted to other objects. "The fort had become a scene of plunder to such as remained after the troops marched out. The cattle had been shot down as they ran at large, and lay dead or dying around. This work of butchery had commenced just as we were leaving the fort. I well remembered a remark of Ensign Ronan, as the firing went on. 'Such,' turning to me, 'is to be our fate to be shot down like brutes!' ' Well sir,' said the commanding officer, who overheard him, 'are you afraid?' 'No,' re- plied the high spirited young man, 'I can march up to the enemy where you dare not show your face ; ' and his subsequent gallant behavior showed this to be ntr idle boast. " As the noise of the firing grew gradually less, and the stragglers from the vic- torious party came dropping in, 1 received confirmation of what my father had hurriedly communicated in our rencontre on the lake shore; namely, that the whites had surrendered after the loss of about two thirds of their number. They had stipulated, through the interpreter, Peresh Leclerc, for the preservation of their lives, and those of the remaining women and children, and for their de- livery at some of the British posts, unless ransomed by traders in the Indian coun- try. It appears that the wounded prisoners were not considered as included in the stipulation, and a horrible scene ensued upon their being brought into camp. "An old squaw, infuriated by the loss of friends, or excited by the sanguinary scenes around her, seemed possessed by a demoniac ferocity. She siezed a stable fork and assaulted one miserable victim, who lay groaning and writhing in the agony of his wounds, aggravated by the scorching beams of the sun. With a deli- cacy of feeling scarcely to have been expected under such circumstances, Wau- bee-nee-mah stretched a mat across two poles, between me and this dreadful scene. 1 was thus spared, in some degree, a view of its horrors, although 1 could not en- tirely close my ears to the cries of the sufferer. The following night five more of the wounded prisoners were tomahawked. " The Americans, after their first attack by the Indians, charged upon those who had concealed themselves in a sort of ravine, intervening between the sand banks and the prairie. The latter gathered themselves into a body, and after some hard fighting, in which the number of whites had become reduced to 28, this little band succeeded in breaking through the enemy, and gaining a rising ground, not far from the Oak Woods. The contest now seemed hopeless, and Lieut. Helm sent Peresh Leclerc, a half-breed boy in the service of Mr. Kinzie, who had accompa- nied the detachment and fought manfully on their side, to propose terms of capitulation. It was stipulated that the lives of all the survivors should be spared, and a ransom permitted as soon as practicable. " But, in the mean time, a horrible scene had been enacted. One young savage, climbing into the baggage-wagon, containing the children of the white families, 12 in number, tomahawked the children of the entire group. This was during the engagement near the sand hills. When Capt. Wells, who was fighting near, beheld 1 it, he exclaimed: 'Is that their game, butchering the women and children? Then I will kill too !' So saying, he turned his horse's head, and started for the Indian camp, near the fort, where had been left their squaws and children. " Several Indians pursued him as he galloped along. He laid himself flat on the neck of his horse, loading and firing in that position, as he would occasionally turn on his pursurers. At length their balls took effect, killing his horse, and severely wounding himself. At this moment he was met by Winnemeg and Wau-beii'See, who endeavored to save him from the savages who had now overtaken him. Aa they supported him along, after having disengaged him from his horse, he re- 1 ceivcd his death-blow from another Indian, Pee-so-tum, who stabbed him in the back. 14 0|0 ILLINOIS. "The heroic resolution of one of the soldier's wives deserves to be recorded. She was a Mrs. Corbin, and had, from the first, expressed the determination never to fall into the hands of the savages, believing that their prisoners were always subjected to tortures worse than death. When, therefore, a party came upon her, to make her a prisoner, she fought with desperation, refusing to surrender, although assured, by signs, of safety and kind treatment, and literally suffered herself to be cut to pieces, rather than become their captive. "There was a Sergeant Holt, who, early in the engagement, received a ball in the neck. Finding himself badly wounded, he gave his sword to his wife, who was on horseback near him, telling her to defend herself he then made for the lake, to keep out of the way of the balls. Mrs. Holt rode a very fine horse, which the Indians were desirous of possessing, and they therefore attacked her, in hopes of dismounting her. They fought only with the butt-ends of their guns, for their ob- ject was not to kill her. She hacked and hewed at their pieces as they were thrust against her, now on this side, now on that. Finally, she broke loose from them, and dashed out into the prairie. The Indians pursued her, shouting and laughing, and now and then calling out: ' The brave woman ! do not hurt her ! ' At length they overtook her again, and while she was engaged with two or three in front, one succeeded in siezing her by the neck behind, and dragging her, although a large and powerful woman, from her horse. Notwithstanding that their guns had been so hacked and injured, and even themselves cut severely, they seemed to regard her only with admiration. They took her to a trader on the Illinois River, by whom she was restored to her friends, after having received every kindness during her captivity." "The heart of Capt. Wells was taken out, and cut into pieces, and distributed among the tribes. His mutilated remains remained unburied until the next day, when Billy Caldwell gathered up his head in one place, and mangled body in an- other, and buried them in the sand. The family of Mr. Kinzie had been taken from the boat to their home, by friendly Indians, and there strictly guarded. Very soon a very hostile party of the Pottawatomie nation arrived from the Wabash, and it required all the skill and bravery of Black Partridge, Wau-ben-see, Billy Gold- well (who arrived at a critical moment), and other friendly Indians, to protect them. Runners had been sent by the hostile chiefs to all the Indian villages, to apprise them of the intended evacuation of the fort, and of their plan of at- tacking the troops. In eager thirst to participate in such a scene of blood, but arrived too late to participate in the massacre. They were infuriated at their disappointment, and sought to glut their vengeance on the wounded and priso- ners. On the third day after the massacre, the family of Mr. Kinzie, with the attaches of the establishment, under the care of Francois, a half-breed interpreter, were taken to St. Joseph's in a boat, where they remained until the following No- vember, under the protection of To-pee-nee-bee, and his band. They were then car- ried to Detroit, under the escort of Chandonnai, and a friendly chief by the name of Kee-po-tah, and, with their servants, delivered up, as prisoners of war, to the British commanding officer. Of the other prisoners, Capt. Heald and Mrs. Heald were sent across to the lake of St. Joseph's, the day after the battle. Capt. Heald had received two wounds, and Mrs. Heald seven, the ball of one of which was cut from her arm by Mr. Kinzie, with a pen-knife, after the engagement. Mrs. II. was ransomed on the battle field, by Chandonnai, a half breed from St. Joseph's, for a mule he had just taken, and the promise of ten bottles of whisky. Capt. Heald was taken prisoner by an Indian from the Kankakee, who, seeing the wounded and enfeebled state of Mrs. Heald, generously released his prisoner, that he might accompany his wife. Lieut. Helm was wounded in the action and taken prisoner ; and afterward taken by some friendly Indians to the Au-sable, and from thence to St. Louis, and liberated from captivity through the agency of the late Thomas Forsyth, Esq. Mrs. Helm received a slight wound in the ankle; had her horse shot from under her; and after passing through the agonizing scenes described, went with the family of Mr. Kinzie to Detroit. The soldiers with their wives and children, were dispersed among the different villages of the Pottowatomies, upon the Illinois, Wabash, Rock ILLINOIS. 211 River and Milwaukie. The largest proportion were taken to Detroit, and ran- somed the following spring. Some, however, remained in captivity another year, and experienced more kindness than was expected from an enemy so mer- ciless. Captain (subsequently Major) Heald, his wife and family, settled in the coun- ty of St. Charles, Mo., after the war, about 1817, where he died about 15 years since. He was respected and beloved by his acquaintances. His health was im- paired from the wounds he received." Northwestern view of the State House, Springfield. The engraving shows the appearance of the State Capitol, as seen from the Mayor's office, in Woshing- ton-street. The Court House and the Bank building are seen on the left. SPRINGFIELD, the capital of Illinois, is situated near the center of the state, four miles S. from Sangamon River, on the border of a rich and beau- tiful prairie, 97 miles from St. Louis, 75 N.E. from Alton, and 188 S.W. from Chicago. It is laid out with great regularity on what was formerly an open prairie, the streets being wide and straight, and ornamented with shade trees. The state capitol stands on a square of three acres in the center of the city, which is beautifully adorned with trees, shrubbery and flowers. From the unusual attention given to the cultivation of shrubbery and flow- ers, Springfield is sometimes fancifully and pleasantly termed the "Flower City." It contains the governor's house, court house, 12 churches, 4 bank- ing houses, the Illinois State University, and in 1860 6,499 inhabitants. The first settlers of Springfield appear to have been several members of a family by the name of Kelly, who, sometime during the year 1818 or 1819, settled, upon the present site of the city; one of them, John Kelly, erected his rude cabin upon the spot where stands the building known as the "Garrett House; " this was the first habitation erected in the city, and, perhaps, also, in the county of Sangamon. Another of the Kellys built his cabin westward of the first, and near the spot where stands the residence of Mrs. Torrey; and the third near or upon the spot where A. G. Herndon resides. A second family, by the name of Duggett, settled in that portion of the western part of the city known by the early inhabitants as "Newsonville," sometime in the early part of 1820; and some half dozen other families were added to the new settlement during the year 1821. 212 ILLINOIS. The original name of Springfield was Calhoun. At a special term of the county commissioners' court, held in April, 1821, at Kelly's house, they designated a cer- tain point in the prairie, near John Kelly's field, on the waters of Spring creek, as a temporary seat of justice for the county, and that "said county seat should be called and known by the name of Springfield." The first court house and jail was built in the latter part of 1821, at the N.W. corner of Second and Jefferson- streets. The town was surveyed and platted by James C. Stephenson, Esq., and he is said to have received block 21 for his services. Town lots, at that period, could not have been considered very valuable, as tradition says he proposed to give Dr. Merryman one fourth of the block for his pointer dog to which he took a fancy, and which offer was rejected. In 1823, Springfield did not contain more than a dozen log cabins, which were scattered about in the vicinity of where the court house then stood, and the Sangamon River was the boundary line of settlements in the northern part of the state. The site of Springfield was originally an open prairie, destitute of trees or shrubbery : where the state house now stands, was formerly a kind of swamp, where, during the winter, the boys amused themselves in skating. The first tavern in Springfield was an old-fashioned two story log house, kept by a person named Price, which stood where the residence of Charles Lorsh now stands. The first tavern of much pretension was the old "Indian Queen Hotel." built by A. G. Herndon. The first store, for the sale of dry goods, in Springfield, was opened by Elijah lies, now occupied by John Hay. In 1837, the seat of government for the state was removed from Vandalia to Springfield, and the first session of the legislature here was in the winter of 1839- 40. The senate held its session in the old Methodist church, aiid the house of representatives met in the second Presbyterian church. In 1840, Springfield re- ceived a city charter. Benjamin S. Clement was elected the first mayor, and Jas. R. Gray, Joseph Klein, Washington lies, and Wm. Prentiss, aldermen. The St. Louis, Alton and Chicago Railroad was commenced in Aug., 1850, and was finished from Alton to Springfield, Sept., 1852: from this period Springfield has rapidly ad- vanced in wealth and population. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the city ceme- tery : NINIAN EDWARDS, chief justice of Ky., 1808; governor 111. Territory, 1809 to 1818; U. S. senator, 1818 to 1824 ; governor state of 111., 1826 to 1830 ; died July 20, 1833, in the 59th year of his age. PASCAL PAOLI ENOS, a native of Windsor, Conn., emigrated to the valley of the Missis- sippi in 1816 ; with three others founded the city of Springfield in 1824, and died A.D. 1832, aged sixty-two. The pioneers acknowledge his virtues. Erected by the Whigs of Springfield in memory of JOHN BRODIE, who departed this life on the 3d of Aug., 1844, in the 42d year of his age. [Second monument.] The grave of JOHN BRODIE, a native of Perth, Scotland, who departed this life on the 3d of Aug., 1844, in the 42d year of his age. Far from his native isle he lies, Wrapped in the vestments of the grave. [In the old graveyard.] Sacred to the memory of Rev. JACOB M. EARLY, a native of Virginia, and for seven years a resident of Springfield, 111., combining in his character splendid natural endowments, a highly cultivated mind, undaunted moral courage, and the graces of the Christian religion. Eminent in the profession of his choice, and successful in his ministry, he enjoyed a large share of the respect and affections of an extensive ftnd respectable acquaintance. Though called suddenly from life, he met death with a calm and amazing fortitude, in the certain hope of a blissful immortality, through our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. He was born Feb. 22, 1806, and died March 11, 1838, aged 32 yrs. 18 days. ILLINOIS. 213 RESIDENCE OF Ar.'.-j. LINCOLN, Springfield is noted as having been the home of Abraham Lincoln, president of the United States. He is a descendant of the pioneers of Kentucky. His grandfather removed from Virginia at un early day, and finally fell on the frontiers be- neath the tomahawk of the sav- age. His son, Thomas, and the father of Abraham, traveled about from neighborhood to neighborhood, working as a la- borer, until he finally settled in what was then Hardin, now La- rue county, Ky., and there, in 1809, was born the subject of this sketch. When in his eighth year, the family removed to Spencer Co., Ind. When Abra- ham was 21 years of age, they again emigrated to Macon, Illinois. Soon after he engaged as a flat boatman on the Mississippi, then he took charge of a store and a mill at New Salem, and on the outbreak of the Black Hawk war he was chosen captain of a company of volunteers. In 1834 he was, for the first time, elected to the legislature of Illinois, and soon after com- menced the study of law. In 1837 he removed to Springfield and entered upon his professional career. In 1840, and again in 1844, he was one of the electors on the Whig ticket in Illinois; in 1846 was elected to congress from the Springfield district. In 1858, he was brought prominently before the public by his memorable senatorial contest with the distinguished Ste- phen A. Douglass. This was the final point in his career which led to his nomination and subsequent election, by the Republican party, to the Presi- dency. His history illustrates the power of natural capacity, joined to in- dustry, to overcome poverty and other obstacles in the way of obtaining an education, in a country whose institutions give full freedom to the exercise of all manly faculties. KasJtaskia, a small village and the county seat of Randolph cou'nty, is on Kaskaskia River, 10 miles above its confluence with the Mississippi, and on a neck of land between them, two miles from the latter, and 142 miles S. of Springfield. It has the distinction of being the oldest town in Illinois, and, perhaps, in the whole western states. It was founded by Father Gravier, a Catholic missionary, some where about the year 1693. It was, at first, merely a missionary station inhabited by the natives. In 1763, when ceded by the French to the English, it contained about 130 families. It was the first capital of the territory, and retained that rank until 1818. Judge Hall, in his " Sketches of the West," gives a pleasant picture of the characteristics of the French settlers in this region. Says he: They made no attempt to acquire land from the Indians, to organize a social sys- tem, to introduce municipal regulations, or to establish military defenses ; but cheerfully obeyed the priests and the king's officers, and enjoyed the present, with- out troubling their heads about the future. They seem to have been even careless as to the acquisition of property, and its transmission to their heirs. Finding themselves in a fruitful country, abounding in game, where the necessaries of life could be procured with little labor, where no restraints were imposed by govern- ment, and neither tribute nor personal service was exacted, they were content to live in unambitious peace, and comfortable poverty. They took possession of so much of the vacant land around them as they were disposed to till, and no more. 214 ILLINOIS. Their agriculture was rude; and even to this day, some of the implements of hus- bandry and modes of cultivation, brought from France a century ago, remain un> changed by the march of mind, or the hand of innovation. Their houses were comfortable, and they reared fruits and flowers; evincing, in this respect, an at- tention to comfort and luxury, which has not been practiced among the English or American first settlers; but in the accumulation of property, and in all the essen- tials of industry, they were indolent and improvident, rearing only the bare neces- saries of life, and living from generation to generation without change or improve- ment The only new articles which the French adopted, in consequence of their change of residence, were those connected with the fur trade. The few who were en- gaged in merchandise turned their attention almost exclusively to the traffic with the Indians, while a large number became hunters and boatmen. The voyageitrs, engagees, and couriers des bois, as they are called, form a peculiar race of men. They were active, sprightly, and remarkably expert in their vocation. With all the vivacity of the French character, 'they have little of the intemperance and bru- tal coarseness usually found among the boatmen and mariners. They are patient under fatigue, and endure an astonishing degree of toil and exposure to the weather. Accustomed to live in the open air, they pass through every extreme, and all the sudden vicissitudes of climate, with little apparent inconvenience. Their boats are managed with expertness, and even grace, and their toil enlivened by the song. As hunters, they have roved over the whole of the wide plain of the west, to the Rocky Mountains, sharing the hospitality of the Indians, abiding for long periods, and even permanently, with the tribes, and sometimes seeking their alliance by marriage. As boatmen, they navigate the birch canoe to the sources of the long- est rivers, and pass from one river to another, by laboriously carrying the packages of merchandise, and the boat itself, across mountains, or through swamps or woods, so that no obstacle stops their progress. Like the Indian, they can live on game, without condiment or bread ; like him they sleep in the open air, or plunge into the water at any season, without injury. The French had also a fort on the Ohio, about thirty-six miles jibove the junc- tion of that river with the Mississippi, of which the Indians obtained possession by a singular stratagem. This was just above the site of Metropolis City, and was a mission station as early as 1711. A number of them appeared in the day time on the opposite side of the river, each covered with a bear-skin, and walking on all-fours, and imitating the motions of that animal. The French supposed them to be bears, and a party crossed the river in pursuit of them. The remainder of the troops left their quarters, and resorted to the bank of the river, in front of the garrison, to observe the sport In the meantime, a large body of Indian warriors, who were concealed in the woods near by, came silently up behind the fort, en- tered it without opposition, and very few of the French escaped the carnage. They afterward built another fort on the same ground, which they called Massacre, in memory of this disastrous event, and which retained the name of Fort Massac, after it passed into the hands of the American government These paragraphs of Hall are quoted by Peck, in the "Western Annals, and to them are appended these additional facts from his own pen: The stylo of agriculture in all the French settlements was simple. Both the Spanish and French governments, in forming settlements on the Mississippi, had special regard to convenience of social intercourse, and protection from the Indians. All their settlements were required to be in the form of villages or towns, and lots of a convenient size for a door yard, garden and stable yard, were provided for each family. To each village were granted two tracts of land at convenient distances for " common fields " and "commons.' 1 '' A common field is a tract of land of several hundred acres, inclosed in common by the villagers, each person furnishing his proportion of labor, and each family possessing indi- vidual interest in a portion of the field, marked off and bounded from the rest. Ordinances were made to regulate the repaiis of fences, the time of excluding cattle in the spring, and the time of gathering the crop and opening the field for the range of cattle in the fall. Each plat of ground in the common field was owned in fee simple by the person to whom {.'ranted, subject to sale and conveyance, the same as any landed property. A common is a tract of land granted to the town for wood and pasturage, in which each ILLINOIS. 215 owner of a village lot has a common, but not an individual right. In some cases this tract embraced several thousand acres. By this arrangement, something like a community system existed in their intercourse. If the head of a family was sick, met with a casualty, or was absent as an eiiyiyef, big family sustained little inconvenience. His plat in the common field was cultivated by his neighbors, and the crop gathered. A pleasant custom existed in these French villages not thirty years since, and which had come down from the remotest period. The husbandman on his return at evening from his daily toil, was always met by his affectionate femme with the friendly kiss, and very commonly with one, perhaps two of the youngest children, to receive the same salutation from le prre. This daily interview was at the gate of the door yard, and in view of all the villagers. The simple-hearted people were a happy and contented race. A few traits of these ancient characteristics remain, but most of the descendants of the French are fully Americanized. The romantic details of the conquest of Kaskaskia, in the war of the devolution, by the Virginians, under Clark, we take from Monette : The whole of the Illinois country being, at that time, within the chartered limits of Virginia, Col. George Rogers Clark, an officer of extraordinary genius, who had recently emigrated to Kentucky, with slight aid from the mother state, projected and carried out a secret expedition for the reduction of these posts, the great fountains of Indian massacre. About the middle of June (1778), Clark, by extraordinary exertions, assembled at the Falls of the Ohio six incomplete companies. From these he selected about 150 frontier men, and descended the Ohio in keel boats en rvitte for Kaskaskia; on their way down they learned, by a messenger, of the alliance of France with the United States. About forty miles from the mouth of the Ohio, having first concealed their boats by sinking them in the river, they commenced their inarch toward Kaskaskia. Their route was through a pathless wilderness, interspersed with morasses, and almost impassable to any except backwoodsmen. After several days of great fatigue and hardships, they arrived, unperceived, in the evening of the 4th of July, in the vicinity of the town. In the dead of night Clark divided his little force into two divisions. One division took possession of the town while the inhabitants were asleep; with the other Clark in person crossed to the oppo- site side of the Kaskaskia River, and secured possession of Fort Gage. So* little apprehensive was he of danger, that the commandant, Rocheblave, had not even posted a solitary sentinel, and that officer was awakened by the side of his wife to find himself a prisoner of war. The town, containing about 250 dwellings, was completely surrounded, and all avenues of escape carefully guarded. The British had cunningly impressed the French with a horror of Virginians, representing them, as bloodthirsty and cruel in the extreme. Clark took measures, for ultimate good, to increase this feeling. During the night the troops filled the air with war whoops; every house was en- tered and the inhabitants disarmed; all intercourse between them was prohibited; the people were ordered not to appear in the streets under the penalty of instant death. The whole town was filled with terror, and the minds of the poor French- men were agitated by the most horrid apprehensions. At last, when hope had nearly vanished, a deputation, headed by Father Gibault, the village priest, ob- tained permission to wait upon Col. Clark. Surprised as they had been, by the sudden capture of their town, and by such an enemy as their imagination had painted, they were still more so when admitted to his presence. Their clothes were dirty and torn by the briars, and their whole aspect frightful and savage. The priest, in a trembling, subdued tone, said to Clark: " That the inhabitants expected to be separated, never to meet again on earth, and they begged for permission, through him, to assemble once more in the church, to take a final leave of each other." Clark, aware that they suspected him of hos- tility to their religion, carelessly told them, that he had nothing to say against their church; that religion was a matter which the Americans left everyone for him- self to settle with his God; that the people might assemble in the church, if they wished, but they must not leave the town. Some further conversation was at- tempted, but Clark, in order that the alarm might be raised to its utmost hight, repelled it with sternness, and told them at once that he had not leisure for further 216 ILLINOIS. intercourse. The whole town immediately assembled at the church ; the old and the young, the women and the children, and the houses were all deserted. The people remained in church for a longtime after which the priest, accompanied hy several gentlemen, waited upon Col. Clark, and expressed, in the name of the vil- lage, " their thanks for the indulgence they had received." The deputation then desired, at the request of the inhabitants, to address their conqueror on a subject which was dearer to them than any other. " They were sensible," they said, " that their present situation was the fate of war ; and they could submit to the loss of property, but solicited that they might not be separated from their wives and chil- dren, and that some clothes and provisions might be allowed for their future sup- port." They assured Col. Clark, that their conduct had been influenced by the .British commandants, whom they supposed they were bound to obey that they were not certain that they understood the nature of the contest between Great Britain and the colonies that their remote situation was unfavorable to accurate information that some of their number had expressed themselves in favor of the Americans, and others would have done so had they durst. Clark, having wound up their terror to the highest pitch, resolved now to try the effect of that lenity, which he had all along intended to grant. He therefore abruptly addressed them : " Do you," said he, " mistake us for savages ? I am almost certain you do from your language. Do you think that Americans intend to strip women and children, or take the bread out of their mouths ? My countrymen disdain to make war upon helpless innocence, it was to prevent the horrors of Indian butchery upon our own wives and children, that we have taken up arms, and penetrated into this stronghold of British and Indian barbarity, and not the despicable prospect of plunder. That since the King of France had united his arms with those of Amer- ica, the war, in all probability, would shortly cease. That the inhabitants of Kas- kaskia, however, were at liberty to take which side they pleased, without danger to themselves, their property, or their families. That all religions were regarded by the Americans with equal respect; and that insult offered to theirs, would be immediately punished. And now," continued he, " to prove my sincerity, you will please inform your fellow-citizens that they are at liberty to go wherever they please, without any apprehension. That he was now convinced they had been misinformed, and prejudiced against the Americans, by British officers; and that their friends in confinement should immediately be released." The joy of the vil- lagers, on hearing the speech of Col. Clark, may be imagined. The contrast of feeling among the people, on learning these generous and magnanimous intentions of Col. Clark, verified his anticipations. The gloom which had overspread the town was immediately dispersed. The bells rung a merry peal; the church was at once filled, and thanks offered up to God for deliverance from the terrors they had feared. Freedom to come and go, as they pleased, was immediately given ; knowing that their reports would advance the success and glory of his arms. So great an effect had this leniency of Clark upon them, that, on the evening of the same day, a detachment, under CuptJ Howman, being detached to surprise Caho- kia, the Kaskaskians offered to go with it, and secure the submission of their neigh- bors. This having been accomplished, the two chief posts in Illinois had passed, without bloodshed, from the possession of England into that of Virginia. But St. Vincennes, upon the Wabash^ the most important post in the west, except Detroit, still remained in possession of the enemy. Clark thereupon accepted the offer of Father Gibault, Avho, in company with another Kaskaskian, proceeded on a mission of peace to St. Vincennes, and by the 1st of August, returned with ^he intelligence that the inhabitants of that post had taken the oath of allegiance to the American cause. Clark next established courts, garrisoned three conquered towns, commenced a fort which proved the foundation of the flourishing city of Louisville, and sent the ill-natured Kocheblave a prisoner to Virginia. In October, Virginia extended her jurisdiction over the settlements of the Upper Mississippi and the Wsibash, by the organization of the county of Illinois, the largest, at that time, in the world. Had it not been for the conquest of the Illinois country by Clark, it would have re- mained in the possession of England at the close of the Revolution, and continued, like Canada, to the present day, an English province. ILLINOIS. 217 Having reduced these English posts to submission, Clark opened negotia- tions with the Indians, showing throughout that masterly insight into their character that was ever so wonderfully displayed by him in dealing with men, white or red. Among the incidents of his diplomacy is this one, given by Mr. Peck : A party of Indians, known as Meadow Indians, had come to attend the council with thcii neighbors. These, by some means, were induced to attempt the murder of the in- vaders, and tried to obtain an opportunity to commit the crime proposed, by surprising Clark and his officers in their quarters. In this plan they failed, and their purpose was dis- covered by the sagacity of the French in attendance; when this was done, Clark gave them to the French to deal with as they pleased, but with a hint that some of the leaders would be as well in irons. Thus fettered and foiled, the chiefs were brought daily to the council house, where he whom they proposed to kill, was engaged in. forming friendly re- lations with their red brethren. At length, when, by these means, the futility of their pro- ject had been sufficiently impressed upon them, the American commander ordered their irons to be struck off, and in his quiet way, full of scorn, said, " Every body thinks you ought to die for your treachery upon my life, amidst the sacred deliberations of a council. I had determined to inflict death upon you for your base at- tempt, and you yourselves must be sensible that you have justly forfeited your lives; but on considering the meanness of watching a bear and catching him asleep, I have found out that you are not warriors, only old. women, and loo mean to be killed by the Big Knife. But,'* continued he, " as you ought to be punished for putting on breech cloths like men, they shall be taken away from you, plenty of provisions shall be given for your journey home, as women don't know how to hunt, and during your stay you shall be treated in every respect as squaws." These few cutting words concluded, the colonel turned away to converse with others. The children of the prairie, who had looked for anger, not contempt punishment, not freedom were unaccountably stirred by this treatment. They took counsel together, and presently a chief came forward with a belt and pipe of peace, which, with proper words, he laid upon the table. The interpreter stood ready to translate the words of friendship, but, with curling lip, the American said he did not wish to hear them, and lifting a sword which lay before him, he shattered the offered pipe, with the cutting expression that "he did not treat with women." The bewildered and overwhelmed -Meadow Indians next asked the intercession of other red men, already admitted to friendship, but the only reply was, "The Biy Knife has made no war upon these people; they are of a kind that we shoot like wolves when we meet them in the woods, lest they eat the deer." All this wrought more and more upon the offending tribe; again they took counsel, and then two young men came forward, and, covering their heads with their blankets, sat down before the impenetrable commander; then two chiefs arose, and stated that these young warriors offered their lives as an atonement for the misdoings of their relatives, again they presented the pipe of peace. Silence reigned in the assembly, while the fate of the proffered victims hung in suspense: all watched the countenance of the American leader, who could scarce master the emotion which the incident excited. Still all sat noiseless, nothing heard but the deep breathing of those whose lives thus hung by a thread. Presently, he upon whom all depended, arose, and, approaching the young men, he bade them be uncovered and stand up. They sprang to their feet. " I am glad to find," said Clark, warmly," that there are men among all nations. With you, who alone are fit to be chiefs of your tribe, I am willing to treat; through you I am ready to grant peace to your brothers; / take you by the hands as chiefs, worthy of being such." Here again the fearless generosity, and the generous fearlessness of Clark, proved per- fectly successful, and while the tribe in question became the allies of America, the fame of the occurrence, which spread far and wide through the north-west, made the name of the white negotiator every where respected. JACKSONVILLE, the capital of Morgan county, is on the line of the Great Western Railroad, 34 miles W. from Springfield, and 222 from Chicago. It is beautifully situated in the midst of an undulating and fertile prairie, in the vicinity of Mauvaisterre creek, an affluent of Illinois River. Perhaps no place of its size contains a greater number of churches, charitable insti- tutions, seminaries of learning, and the town has been denominated " the school-house of Illinois." It contains the Illinois College, which occupies 218 ILLINOIS. a beautiful situation, and is one of the best and most flourishing in the state ; the Illinois Conference Female College, under the patronage of the Methodists, having had at one time 400 pupils ; the Berean College, under the patronage of the Christian denomination; and the Jacksonville Female Seminary. The North-eastern view of Illinois College, Jacksonville. The Illinois College building is seen in the central part. The structure on the right was tir merly used as a chapel, library, etc.; that on the left is a wing remaining of the former College buiU ing. state institutions are the Insane Asylum, the Deaf and Dumb Institution, and the Institution for the Blind. These state asylums are situated rela- tively on three sides of a quadrangle around the town, each about a mile from the center. All of the buildings for these institutions, together with those for literary purposes, are of the first order, and some of them make an imposing appearance. The state asylums are supported by the state tax, and all citizens of the state are entitled to their benefits without charge. One of the first originators of the Illinois College was the late Rev. John M. Ellis, who was sent by the American Home Missionary Society, to the infant set- tlements of this state. He early conceived the idea of founding a seminary de- voted to the purposes of education, on a somewhat peculiar plan. The first attempt was at Shoal creek, in Bond county, where the people took quite an interest in the undertaking. A committee was afterward appointed by the Presbytery of Missouri (with which the Presbyterian churches of this state were then connected), to consider the subject and make a report. A tour in connection with this subject was taken by Messrs. Ellis and Lippincott, in Jan., 1828. Having visited several places, Saturday night overtook them on the south side of Sandy creek, some four or five miles south from Jacksonville. Mr. Ellis, in order to fulfill his appointment to preach, continued his journey on Sunday morning. "It was a bright splendid morning. The winter rain had covered every twig and blade of prairie grass with ice, and as the rising sun threw his clear rays athwart the plain, myriads of gems sparkled with living light, and Diamond Grove might almost have been fancied a vast crystal chandelier." The name of Diamond Grove was considerably more ancient than the name or exist- ence of Jacksonville, and was used as a designation of the region around it. The most convenient place for the people, at that time, to assemble on that Sab- bath, was at the house of Judge Leeper, which was about a mile south-east from ,the public square, in the immediate vicinity of the woodland, which borders OB ILLINOIS. 219 the Mauvaisterre creek, and nearly east of the spot where the Insane Hospital now stands. He was one of the first members of the Presbyterian Church in Jackson- ville. The principal sites which attracted the notice of the commissioners when here, was the spot now known as the mound and the site on which the college stands. Mr. Ellis removed his residence from Kaskaskia to Jacksonville, in 1828, and the same year made a report to the society respecting the seminary. About this period seven members of the theological department of Yale College, Conn., see- ing the report of Mr. Ellis, pledged themselves to devote their lives to the cause of Christianity in the distant and then wild state of Illinois. The names of these young men were, Theoron M. Grosvenor, Theoron Baldwin, J. M. Sturtevant (now president of the college), J. T. Brooks, Elisha Jenney, William Kirby and Asa Turner. The following is extracted from President Sturtevant's Historical Dis- course, delivered in Jacksonville on the Quarter Century Celebration at Illinois College, July 11, 1855, being relative to his first visit to Jacksonville: "It was on a bright Sabbath morning, the 15th day of November, a little after sunrise, that we came in sight of Jacksonville. 1't was already called, in the ordi- nary speech of the people, a beautiful place. I had often heard it called so my- self; and beautiful it was, when the bright face of spring was again spread over it, though its beauty was God's work, and not man's. It was at that time little better than a group of log cabins. The prairie was in the sombre brown of autumn, with scarce a tree or shrub to relieve the monotony. To the north-west, however, the view was shut in by an elevation, which a New Englander might almost recog- nize as a hill. It was crowned with a natural grove. Against the front of the grove was already projected an edifice of brick, which, at that distance, and on such an elevation, made an appearance of considerable dignity and magnificence. The site on which it stood charmed every beholder. It was the south half of what is now our college buildings, then in process of erection. We were most cordially welcomed at the humble, but none the less hospitable, dwelling of Mr. Ellis. * * Our arrival was expected, and preaching was appointed. At the proper hour we repaired to the place of worship. AVhat would our people say now, if we were to invite them to assemble in such a place for public worship? It was a log school house, some 20 feet square, with a floor of split logs, and seats, so far as there were any of the same, with holes bored in them, and sticks driven in for legs. The chimney was of the style and structure most approved for log-cabins, built out of doors, of logs and sticks, and occupying near half of one side of the room. Such was its condition the first time 1 met the congregation in that place. Before the next Sabbath, the chimney had either fallen down or been removed, in prepara- tion for an arrangement for warming the house by a stove. For two or three Sab- baths we met there, before this vast opening in one side was again closed up. Desk or pulpit there was none, an awkward circumstance to one just from the school of theology, with no faith in the possibility of preaching without a manuscript before him. Yet, on that day, this was the unlucky predicament of your speaker. On the first Sabbath the audience was small, and a chair was set for the preacher in one corner of the room. On the second Sabbath the house was crowded. The chair was missing. The deficiency of seats had been supplied by bringing in rails from a neighboring fence, and laying them across from one seat to another, and thus covering over the whole area with 'sittings.' Those who could not thus be accommodated, crowded around the ample opening where the chimney had been, and heard standing in the open air. There was a state of democratic equality in the congregation, which would have done good to the heart of a thorough-going leveler. The preacher found a seat, where he could, among the congregation ; laid his Bible and hymn book on the rail by his side, and rose in his place and ad- dressed the congregation as best he might. When the day appointed arrived, we repaired to the still unfinished edifice, then a full mile distant from Jacksonville, where we found the room which has ever since been used as a chapel, finished, lacking the desk, the lathing and plastering, and for the most part the seating. The rest of the building was in a still more un- finished condition. Of course its impression was far enough from inviting. Nine pupils presented themselves on that day. They were Alvin M. Dixon, James P. 20 ILLINOIS. Stewart, from Bond county, Merril Rattan and Hampton Rattan, from Greene county, Samuel R. Simms, Chatham H. Simms, Rollin Mears, Charles B. Barton, and a youth by the name of Miller, of Morgan county. They were all to begin their studies in the first rudiments, for it is not known that there was, at that time, in the state, a single youth fitted for the freshman class in an American college. The pupils were called together, a portion of scripture was read, a few remarks were made on the magnitude of the errand which had brought us there." The* first printing office in Jacksonville, was set up by James G. Edwards, of Boston, who afterward removed to Burlington, Iowa. He was the printer and edi- tor of the " Western Observer." His printing office is the building in the rear of that of Dr. Mavo McLean Reed, a native of South Windsor, Connecticut. Dr. Reed emigrated to Jacksonville in 1830, from South Windsor, with Mr. Elihu Wolcott and his family. Mr. W. traveled with his own team from Connecticut, and arrived here on the 5th of November, having been six weeks on the journey. About 1,000 Portuguese emigrants reside in Jacksonville and its immediate vi- cinity, being sent here by a society in New York. They are from the Island of Maderia, and were brought to embrace the Protestant faith, through the instru- mentality of Dr. Kally, a Scotchman who went to reside in Maderia for the health of his wife. They have a minister named De Mattoes, who preaches in their na- tive language. They are an industrious and frugal people: most of them have houses of their own, with from two to ten acres of land: a few have 30 or 40 acres. They have additions, occasionally, from their native country. The following inscriptions are from monuments in Jacksonville; the first from the graveyard in the vicinity of the colleges; the others, in the city graveyard. Col. Hardin (the inscription on whose monument is given below) was much esteemed, and represented this district in congress, from 1843 to 1845. Being at the head of the Illinois' militia, he was requested, by the governor of the state, to take the command of a regiment of Illinois volun- teers. He at first declined, not fully approving of the Mexican War. But being over-persuaded, and desirous of obtaining the approbation of all classes of his fellow-citizens, he finally consented. Tearing himself from his wife and children, he embarked, with his regiment, for Mexico; but as in many other like instances, it proved with him, that " The paths of Glory lead but to the Grave." In the battle of Buena Vista, Col.- Hardin having obtained permission to march upon the enemy at a certain point, was suddenly attacked by an over- whelming force of Mexicans concealed in a ravine, when he fell pierced with many wounds. His remains were found among the slain, brought home and interred with military honors. ALEXANDKR DUNLOP, born May 6th, A.D. 1791, in Fayette Co., Kentucky. Died Nov. 10, A.D. 1853. Alex. Dunlop volunteered as a private soldier in the war with England in 1812, and was taken prisoner at Dudley's defeat, May 7, 1813. Commanded a company during the Seminolo War, also the detachment that captured St. Marks, April 7, 1818, making prisoners, Arbuthnot and Ambrister. Was Grand Master of the Grand Lodge of Illinois, 1S4:{. Was commissioned Major of the U. S. Army 1816, and was present at the fall of Vera C:uz, March 28, 1847. Pro patria, COL. JOHN J. HARDIN, of the 1st Reg. of 111. volunteers, gloriously fell in the battle of Buena Vista, Feb. 23, 1847. Born in Frankfort, Ky., on the 6th day of January, 1810. Died on the field of battle in the 37th year of his age. WILLIAM E. PIKRSOK died Sept. 30, 1854, on the eve of his departure to the Cherokee Na- tion, being under appointment as missionary teacher by the A. B. C. F. M., aged 24. lie rests in hope. ILLINOIS. 221 BLOOMINGTON, beautifully situated on the line of the Illinois Central Railroad, is 61 miles N. E. from Springfield, and 128 S. W. from Chicago. It is regularly laid out on an undulating surface, giving a fine prospect of the fertile prairie lands in the vicinity. The city is generally very neatly North View in Bloomington. Showing the appearance t>f the central part of the place, as it is entered from tho north; the now Bap- tist Church, and the Shaffer and Landon Houses, with a portion of the old Court House, are seen on the right of the engraving ; the 2d Presbyterian and tho Methodist Churches on the left. built, having the appearance of thrift and prosperity, and some of the build- ings near the public square, are magnificent in their appearance. This place contains the State Normal University, the Illinois Wesleyan University, two female seminaries, several banks, 11 churches, various, manufacturing estab- lishments, and a population of about 8,000. The first settler and father of the town, was John Allin, a native of North Caro- lina;, who was raised in Ohio, Kentucky and Indiana, he having lived, in the early period of his life in each of those states. He was at first attracted to this spot by the extreme beauty of the groves. Being acquainted with the geography of the country, he found it was on a direct line from the foot of the rapids of the Illinois, near La Salle to Cairo, also from Chicago to Alton and St. Louis. These considerations induced him to locate himself on this point, believing it was des- tined to become one of importance. It was fora period called Blooming Grove, and from this circumstance Mr. Allin gave it its present name. This section of country appears to have been a favorite spot with the Indians. Mr. A. states that he had seen the signs or remains of 30 Indian villages, within a compass of 30 miles around Bloomington. At the time of his arrival, two tribes, the Kiekapoos and Delawares, lived within some 15 or 20 miles. The Kickapoos were 5 or 600; the IJelawares were about half that number. The Kickapoos left in 1832. Mr. Allin came in 1829, and erected his log cabin on the edge of the timber op- posite where* the First Presbyterian Church now stands, and he set out most of the trees growing in that vicinity. He brought a quantity of goods with him, which he kept in a part of his cabin, and opened the first store in Bloomington. Samuel Durley, a young man born in Kentucky, then nearly of age, acted as clerk. Rev. James Latta, the second settler, built his habitation about 20 rods west from Mr. Allin 's; he was a Methodist preacher, universally esteemed by all classes. Mr. 222 ILLINOIS. Allin found him living in a cabin about four miles south-west of Bloomington, on Sugar creek, and induced him to remove. M. L. Covel, and Col. A. Gridley, merchants from the state of New York, were also prominent men among the first settlers. The first school house was built in 1830. It was constructed of logs, and stood on the edge of the timber, about 20 rods west of Mr. Allin^s house. This was the first public building opened for religious meetings. The first seminary was opened by Rev. .Lemuel Foster, in 1836; he lived, preached, and kept school in the same building. Mr. Foster was originally from New England, and was the first Presby- terian minister, if we except a Mr. McGhor or Gear, who was of feeble constitution, and died very soon after his arrival in the place. The first regular physician was John Anderson, of Kentucky. Henry Miller, from Ohio, kept the first house of en- tertainment: it was a log house a few rods from Mr. Allin 's. South-eastern vieic (>f I'euria. Showing the appearance of the central part of the city, as it is entered from the eastern sidy of the Illi- nois River, by the Itailroad and the Peoria bridge. 1'art of the Railroad bridge is seen on the extreme left; the steamboat landing on the right. Tho draw or swing of the bridge is represented open for the passage of steamboats. McLean county, named from Judge McLean, of Ohio, was formed in 1831. At this period there were but 30 or 40 families living within the present limits of the county. Mr. Allin donated the site of the town plot for the county seat. The first court house was a small framed building, which stood on the present public square. Mr. Allin was chosen the first senator from the county in 183f>, and con- tinued in the office for four years. Jesse W. Fell, distinguished for his enterpri/e and public spirit, edited and published the BLOOMINGTOX OBSERVER, the first newspaper printed in the place. It was printed in a small building on West street, Ion;: since removed. The construction of the Central Kailroud with the grants of lands by congress on the route, gave an important impulse to the prosperity of tin? town. PEORIA is situated on the right or west bank of Illinois River* at the out- let of Peoria Lake, 70 miles north from Springfield, 193 from the mouth of the Illinois, and 151 south-west of Chicago. It is the most populous town on the river, and one of the most important and commercial in the state. The river is navigable for steamboats in all stages of water, and is the channel of ILLINOIS. 223 an immense trade in grain, lumber, pork, etc. It has a regulai commu- nication with St. Louis by steamboats, and with Chicago by means of the Illinois and Michigan canal, and by railroads to places in every direction. The city is handsomely situated on an elevation above the flood, and slopes gradually to the river, rendering drainage laws unnecessary, and the grading of the streets an easy task. The streets are all 100 feet wide. Back of the town is a range of bluffs, from 60 to 100 feet high, commanding, from their summits, a most extensive and beautiful prospect. It has numerous steam mills, distilleries, manufactories, etc. It contains 28 churches, and about 16,000 inhabitants. Peoria derived its name from the Peorias, one of the five tribes known as the Ulini, or Minneway nation. In the autumn of 1679, La Salle and his co-voyagers, from Canada, sailed for this region of country, by way of the lakes to Chicago, where he established a fort. Leaving a few men for a garrison, he set out with his canoes, nine in number, with three or four men in each, about the 1st of December, for the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, by ascending St. Joseph River, Michigan, and across the portage to Kan-ka-kee, a main branch of the Illinois River, and then down the river to Peoria Among La Salle's companions, were M. de Tonti, who acted as historian. M. de Tonti, in his account of this voyage, says : " The same day (January 4, 1680), we went through a lake formed by the river, about seven leagues long and one broad. The savages call that place Pimitceuii, that is, in their tongue, ' a place where there is abundance of fat beasts.' After passing through this [Peoria] lake, they came again to the channel of the river, and found themselves between two Indian encampments. This was where the bridges are now built On perceiving the strangers, the Indians fled; but some were bold enough to return, when one of their chiefs came and inquired who they were, and what were their objects. They were answered by the interpreter, that they were French, and that their ob- ject was to make known to them the God "of Heaven; to offer them the protec- tion of the King of France, and to trade with them. This was well received, and the calumet, or pipe of peace, was smoked by each party as a token of peace and friendship. A great feast was held, which lasted for several days, attended with dancing, on the part of the natives, and firing of guns and other demonstrations of joy on the part of the French. M. La Salle erected a fort on the south-eastern bank of the Illinois, which he named Creve-coeur [Bursted heart], on account of the grief he felt for the loss of one of his chief trading barks richly laden, and for the mutiny and villainous con- duct of some of his companions who first attempted to poison and then desert him. This fort is supposed to have stood on land owned by Mr. Wren, some two or three miles eastward of Peoria. The exact date of the first permanent settlement in Illinois, can not now be ascertained, unless this fort or trading post of Creve- coeur be regarded the first, and there is no evidence that this remained a perma- nent station. After the conquest of Canada, the Illinois country fell into the possession of Great Britain. In 1766, the "Quebec Bill" passed the British parliament, which placed Illinois and the North-western Territory under the local administration of Canada. The conquest of the North-western Territory, by Col. George Rogers Clark, in 1778, was the next event of importance. It was brought under the jurisdiction of Virginia, and the country of Illinois was organized. In the year 1796, Peoria was described as "an Indian village, composed of pseudo savages," made of the native tribe of "Peoriaca Indians," and ''Canadian French," a few Indian traders and hunters. In Dec., 1812, a Capt. Craig was sent here by Gov. Edwards, to chastise the disorderly Indians and their allies, if any of them might be found at this little French village. Capt. Craig found a pretext for burning this French town, which had been laid out by them, embracing about one half of the 1st ward of the present city, the center of this village being at or about the entrance of the bridge across the Illinois River. Capt. Craig excused himself for this act, by accusi.ij; the Froqch of being in league with the Indians, and by alleging 224 ILLINOIS. that his boats were fired upon from the town, while lying at anchor before it. This the French inhabitants denied, and charged Craig with unprovoked cruelty. This place was then called "La ville Mailleit" from its founder, Hypolite Mailleit, who moved here in 1778, and commenced the building of this ville. In 1830, John Hamlin and John Sharp built the first flouring mill ever erected in this part of the state, on the Kickapoo, or Red Bud creek, about three miles W. of Peoria. The next was erected in Oct., 1837, by Judge Hale and John Easton, about four miles from the city. In the spring of 1834, the only building W. of the corner of Main and Washington-streets was a barn ; the entire town then con- sisted of but seven framed houses, and about thrice that number of log tenements -but during this season about forty houses and stores were erected. About this time, the old jail, standing on the alley between Monroe and Perry-streets, was built, a hewn log building, only 16 feet square and 14 high ; the lower story formed for a cell, entered by a trap door from the second story, which was used for a com- mon prison. The court house was a log building on the bank, in which the jurors slept at night on their blankets on the floor. The courts being usually held in warm weather, after the grand jurors received their charge, in court time, the grand jury sat under the shade of a crab apple tree, and the petit jury in a potato hole (that had been partially filled up) in the vicinity. The venerable Isaac Waters was clerk of the court. His office and dwelling were in a small log cabin, where now stands Toby & Anderson's plow factory. J. L. Bogardus, the postmaster, kept his office in a log cabin near Sweney & Ham's steam mill. Peoria was incorporated as a town in 1831, and as a city in 1844. The first city officers were Hon. Wm. Hale, mayor ; Peter Sweat, Chester Hamlin, Clark Cleave- land, Harvey Lightner, J. L. Knowlton, John Hamlin, Charles Kettelle, and A. P. Bartlett, as aldermen. The Peoria bridge, across the Illinois River, with its abut- ments, is 2,600 feet long, was finished in 1849, and cost of about $33,000. In 1818 the first canal boat arrived from Lake Michigan. The first steamboat that arrived at Peoria was the "Liberty," in the month of December, 1829. The first news- paper was the " Illinois Champion," published by A. S. Buxton and Henry Wol- ford, March 10, 1834. The first daily paper was called the "Daily Register," pub- lished by Picket & Wdodcock; the first number was issued June 28, 1848. The Methodist Episcopal church, the first formed in the place, was organized in Aug., 1834, by Rev. Zadock Hall, of the Chicago circuit, Dr. Heath, of St.' Louis, and Rev. John St. Clair, of Ottawa. Their meetings, at first, were held in the old court house. The first church edifice, the Main-street Presbyterian church, was erected April, 1836. The church, consisting of eight members, was organized in Dec., 1834, by Rev Romulus Barnes and Rev. Flavel Bascom. St. Jude's church (Episcopal) was organized here in 1834; St. Paul's church building was erected in Sept., 1850. The Baptist church was constituted in Aug., 1836. The Second Presbyterian church was organized Oct., 1840. The following sketch of a campaign against the Indians, at Peoria and vicinity, in the war of 1812, is from Peck's edition of Perkins' Annals: During the campaign in the summer and autumn of 1813, all the companies of rangers, from Illinois and Missouri, were under the command of Gen. Howard. Large parties of hostile Indians were known to have collected about Peoria, and scouting parties traversed the district between the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, then an entire wilderness. It was from these marauding parties that the frontier settlements of Illinois and Missouri, were harassed. It became an object of no small importance, to pene- trate the country over which they ranged, and establish a fort at Peoria, and thus drive them to the northern wilderness. Our authorities for the incidents of the campaign, are a long letter from the honorable John Reynolds, who was a non-com- missioned officer in a company of spies, and the ' Missouri Gazette,' of November 6th. The rendezvous for the Illinois regiment was 'Camp Russell,' two miles north of Kdwardsville. The whole party, when collected, made up of the rangers, volunteers and militia, amounted to about 1,400 men, under the command of Gen. ILLINOIS 225 Howard. Robert Wash, Esq., and Dr. Walker, of St. Louis, were of his staff. Colonels Benjamin Stephenson, then of Randolph county, Illinois, and Alexan- der McNair, of St Louis, commanded the regiments. W. B. Whiteside and John Moredock, of Illinois, were majors in the second regiment, and William Christy and Nathan Boone, filled the same office in the first, or Missouri regiment. A Maj. Desha, a United States officer from Tennessee, was in the army, but what post he occupied we do not learn. Col. E. B. Clemson, of the United States Army, was inspector. Gov. Reynolds states, there were some United States rangers from Kentucky, and a company from Vincennes. We have no means of ascertaining the names of all the subaltern officers. We know that Samuel Whiteside, Joseph Phillips, Nathaniel Journey and Samuel Judy, were captains in the Illinois companies. The Illinois regiment lay encamped on the Piasau, opposite Portage de Sioux, waiting for more troops, for three or four weeks. They then commenced the march, and swam their horses over the Illinois River, about two miles above the mouth. On the high ground in Calhoun county, they had a skirmish with a party of Indians. The Missouri troops, with Gen. Howard, crossed the Mississippi from Fort Mason, and formed a junction with the Illinois troop. The baggage and men were transported in canoes, and the horses swam the river. The army marched for a number of days along the Mississippi bottom. On or near the site of Quincy, was a large Sac village, and an encampment, that must have contained a thousand warriors. It appeared to have been deserted but a short period. The -army continued its march near the Mississippi, some distance above the Lower Rapids, and then struck across the prairies for the Illinois River, which they reached below the mouth of Spoon River, and marched to Peoria village. Here was a small stockade, commanded by Col. Nicholas of the United Statee Army. Two days previous the Indians had made an attack on the fort, and wers repulsed. The army, on its march from the Mississippi to the Illinois River, found numerous fresh trails, all passing northward, which indicated that the savages were fleeing in that direction. , Next morning the general marched his troops to the Senatchwine, a short dis- tance above the head of Peoria Lake, where was an old Indian village, called Gomo's village. Here they found the enemy had taken water and ascended the Illi- nois. This, and two other villages, were burnt. Finding no enemy to fight, the army was marched back to Peoria, to assist the regular troops in building Fort Clark, so denominated in memory of the old hero of 1778; and Maj. Christy, with a party, was ordered to ascend the river with two keel boats, duly armed and protected, to the foot of tlie rapids, and break up any Indian establishments that might be in that quarter. Maj. Boone, with a detachment, was dispatched to scour the coun- try on Spoon River, in the direction of Rock River. The rangers and militia passed to the east side of the Illinois, cut timber, which they hauled on truck wheels by drag ropes to the lake, and rafted it across. The fort was erected by the regular troops under Capt Phillips. In preparing the timber, the rangers and militia were engaged about two weeks. Maj. Christy and the boats returned from the rapids without any discovery, ex- cept additional proofs of the alarm and fright of the enemy, and Maj. Boone re- turned with his force with the same observations. It was the plan of Gen. Howard to return by a tour through the Rock River valley, but the cold weather set in unusually early. By the middle of October it was intensely cold, the troops had no clothing for a winter campaign, and their horses would, in all probability, fail ; the Indians had evidently fled a long distance in the interior, so that, all things considered, he resolved to return the direct route to Camp Russell, where the militia and volunteers were disbanded on the 22d of October Supplies of provisions, and munitions of war had been sent to Peoria, in boats, which had reached there a few days previous to the army. It may seem to those, who delight in tales of fighting and bloodshed, that this expedition was a very insignificant affair. Very few Indians were killed, very little fighting done, but one or two of the army were lost, and yet, as a means of protecting the frontier settlements of these territories, it was most efficient, and 15 220 ILLINOIS. gave at least six months quiet to the people. After this, Indians shook their heads and said, ' White men like the leaves in the forest like the grass in the prairies they grow everywhere.' :| Distant view of Quincy, from the south. The engraving shows the appearance of Quincy. when first seen on approaching it from the south by the Mississippi. Thayer's Alcohol Factory and Comstook &, Oo 's Iron Foundry are seen on the right: the Central Mill and Grain Depot on the left; between these two points is a range of limestone quarries. Just above the Central Mill is the steam and ferry boat landing; also mills, stores, shops, etc. The city is par- tially seen on the bluff. QUINCY, the county seat of Adams county and a poj t of entry, is situated on a beautiful elevation, about 125 feet above the Mississippi, and commands a fine view for five or six miles in each direction. It is 109 miles from Springfield, 268 miles from Chicago, by railroad, and 160 above St. Louis. It contains' a large public square, a court house, many beautiful public and private 'edifices, several banks, a number of extensive flouring and other mills, and manufactories of various kinds, with iron founderies, machine shops, etc. Flour is exported to a great extent, and large quantities of pro- visions are packed. The bluffs in front of the city may be considered as one vast limestone quarry, from which building stone of a hard and durable quality can be taken and transported to any section of the country, by steam- boat and railroad facilities immediately at hand. Five newspapers are printed here, three daily and two in the German language, one of which is daily. Population about 16,000. The "Quincy English and German Male and Female Seminary," an in- corporated and recently established institution, is designed for a male and female college of the highest grade, for which a large und elegant building is already constructed. The streets cross at right angles, those running N. and S. bear the name of the states of the Union. The present bounds of the city extend two and a half miles each way. The river at the landing is one mile wide. Running along and under the N.W. front of the city, lies a beautiful bay, formerly called " Boston Bay," from the circumstance of a ILLINOIS. 227 Bostonian having once navigated his craft up this bay, mistaking it for the main channel of the river. Quincy was originally selected as a town site by John Wood, of the state of New York ; for several years he was mayor of this city and lieutenant governor of the state. Mr. Wood built his cabin (18 by 20 feet) in Dec., 1822, without nails or sawed lumber. This building, the first in the place, stood near the foot of Dela- ware-street, about 15 rods E. of Thayer's alcohol factory. At this time there were only three white inhabitants within the present county of Adams, and these were obliged to go to Atlas, 40 miles distant, to a horse mill for corn meal, their princi- pal breadstuff. In Nov., 1825, the county court ordered a survey and plat of the town to be made, and the lots to be advertised for sale. Henry H. Snow, the clerk, and afterward judge, laid off 230 lots, 99 by 108 feet, reserving a public square in the center of the town. It received its name, Quincy, on the day that John Quincy Adams was inaugurated president of the United States. On the present site of Quincy once stood an old Sac village. At the time the town was surveyed, it was covered with forest trees and hazel bushes, excepting about two acres of prairie ground where the public square was laid out. In the trees in the vicinity of the place, balls were found which had been shot into them fifty or more years before. A few years since an iron ring and staple were found sixty feet below the earth's surface. In the mounds in and about the city are found Indian bones and armor of ancient date. John Wood, from the state of New York; Henry H. Snow, from New Hamp- shire; Willard Keyes, from Vermont; Jeremiah Rose and Rufus Brown, from. New York; and Ashur Anderson, from Pennsylvania, may be considered as prom- inent men among the first settlers. Drs. J. N. Ralston, from Kentucky, and b. W. Rogers, from New York, were the first physicians in the order of time. The first house of worship in the place, was erected by the First Congregationalist Society, in 1833 and '34: Rev. Asa Turner, from Massachusetts, was the first minister. The building is now used as a carriage shop, on Fourth-street, and ^stands on the spot where it was first erected. The first school was taught, in 1827, by Mr. Mendall, in a log school house, which stood on a lot fronting Hampshire-street, between Second and Third-streets. The first court house and jail was built of logs, and was nearly on the spot where the present court house is situated. C. M. Wood, from New York, was the first printer; he printed the first paper, the "Illinois Bounty Land Register," in 1835, since merged into the Quincy Herald. The first ferry was established by Willard Keyes. The first store was opened, in 1826, by Ashur Anderson, who opened his stock, valued at $1,000, in Brown's log tavern. In 1828, Robert Tillson and Charles Holmes established themselves as merchants in a log cabin on the north side of the square, in what was later known as the old " Land Office Hotel." Afterward, they erected for their accommodation the first framed building in the town. It still remains, and has long been known as the old " Post Office Corner." "Without access to market, or to mill, the first settlers of Quincy built their houses without nails, brick, or mortar, the principal utensils used being the axe and the auger. The necessaries of life were scarcely attainable, to say nothing of the luxuries. In the cultivation of their land, viz.: 30 acres of corn (without fence) they were obliged to go 30 miles to have their plows sharpened. One man would swing a plowshare on eacli side of an Indian pony, pile on such other articles of iron as needed repairs, lay in a stock of pro- visions, mount and set out." The number of inhabitants during the first year increased to sixteen; from 1825 to 1835, they increased to five hundred; during all which time they continued to import their bacon and flour. As late as 1832, when the Black Hawk war broke out, the Indians, principally of the Sac and Fox tribes, were very numerous, the shores of the river being frequently covered with their wigwams, both above and below the town. Coming in from their hunt- ing excursions, they brought large quantities of feathers, deer-skins, moccasins, beeswax, honey, maple sugar, grass floor mats, venison, muskrat and coon-skins. ALTON is on the E. bank of the Mississippi, 25 miles N. from St. Louis, 3 miles above the mouth of the Missouri River, 20 below the mouth of the Illinois, and 75 miles S.W. of Springfield. The site of the city is quite un- 228 ILLINOIS. even and broken, with high and stony bluffs, and in front of it the Missis- sippi runs almost a due course from east to west. The city contains a splen- did city hall, 10 churches, and a cathedral in its interior superior to anything of the kind in the western states. Five newspapers are published here. As* North-western view of Alton. The view is from Prospect-street, taken by Mr. Roeder, and designed by him for a large engraving. On the left of the picture is the Railroad Depot, above which is the Methodist church. On the right is the Pen- itpntiary and Steamboat landing. In the central part appear the Unitarian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Pres- byterian churches, and the City Hall. On the right, in the distance, is seen the Missouri shore of the Mississippi, also the mouth of the Missouri River, at its entrance into the " Father of Waters." a manufacturing point, Alton has hardly an equal on the Mississippi River, and the city is now in a flourishing condition, having at hand limestone for building purposes, mines of bituminous coal, beds of the finest clay for brick and earthen ware, with railroad and steamboat communication to every point. The state penitentiary was located here in 1827. Population 1860, 6,333. Upper Alton is located on the high rolling timber land, in the rear of Al- ton city, two miles from the Mississippi, and'has a population of upward of 2,000. The manufacturing business is considerable, particularly cooper- ing, potters' ware, etc. The town was laid out, in 1817, by J. Meacham, from Vermont; several additions have been since made. Shurtleff College, named from Dr. Shurtlaff, of Boston, is in the limits of the town, and is a flourishing institution under the charge of the Baptist denomination. The Mon'.icello Female Seminary, four miles from Alton, founded by Capt. Benjamin Godfrey, was the first female seminary built in Illinois, and is of high reputation. This institution was opened for pupils in 1838. Rev. Theoron Baldwin had the charge of the first scholars. Capt. Godfrey, its founder, was a sea captain, and has been long distinguished for his public spirit, and the sacrifices which he has made for the public good. The first resident in Alton appears to have been John Bates, a blacksmith, from ILLINOIS. 2'2 9 Tennessee. He located himself at the head of the American bottom lands in Lower Alton, where he cultivated a small farm, about half a mile below the steamboat landing in Alton. A man in his emploj T was killed by the Indians while plowing on this farm. The first settlers who located in Upper Alton, about two miles back from the river, came in from 1808 to 1812, and were principally from Kentucky and Tennessee. They lived in block-houses for protection. This place is called Hun- ter's town on section 13, and is now within the city limits. Col. Rufus Easton, delegate from Missouri, located Alton proper on section 14. He sold a large por- tion of Lower Alton to Maj. C. W. Hunter, in 1818, together with several other tracts adjoining, which Maj. H. afterward laid out as an addition, and are now with- in the city limits. Maj. Charles W. Hunter was a native of Waterford, N. Y., a son of Robert Hun- ter, of Pennsylvania, a favorite officer under Gen. Wayne, who led the forlorn hope at the storming of Stony Point, in the Revolution, and also accompanied him after- ward in the Indian war at the west. Mr. Hunter, in the war of 1812, served as mnjor in the 35th Reg. U. S. infantry. At the close of the war he resigned his commission and went to St. Louis, where he engaged in merchandise and the In- dian trade. After his purchase from Col. Easton, he removed his family here, in 1819, and built the first framed house in Alton (now standing), and opened in it the first regular store in the place. He brought his goods here in a barge, which he had used in the New Orleans trade. The Methodist itinerating preachers appear to have been the first in the order of time who visited Alton; they preached in the school house in Upper Alton, and in private houses. The first Presbyterian church (of stone) was erected by Capt. Godfrey, of the firm of Godfrey, Gilman & Co. Mr. Joseph Meacham, who laid out Upper Alton, was a surveyor from New England. It was laid out on an ex- tensive scale, and lots and blocks were reserved for the support of a free school. The proceeds were accordingly reserved for this purpose, and Alton is entitled to the honor of establishing the first public free school in Illinois. The first teacher was Deacon Henry H. Snow, of New Hampshire. Mr. S. has since removed to Quincy, in which place he has held many public offices. Up to 1827, the " town of Alton " made but very little progress. Upper Alton completely overshadowed it. The location of the penitentiary here gave quite an impulse to the place. In 1831, the Alton Mtinufacturing Company built the large steam flouring mill, on the river bank, in front of the penitentiary. In 1832, O. M. Adams and Edward Breath started the "Weekly Spectator." In 1836, the Al- ton and Springfield road was surveyed by Prof. Mitchell, of Cincinnati. In 1836, Tread^way and Parks commenced the publication of the " Weekly Alton Tele- graph." In the spring of this year, Rev. E. P. Lovejoy commenced the publica- tion of a weekly religious newspaper, called the "Alton Observer." The ''Alton Presbytery Reporter " was started in 1845, also the "Courier" newspaper, etc., office, several splendid founderies and machine shops, two German newspapers, and the "Alton National Democrat." The city of Alton was incorporated in 1837. Alton is the place where Elijah P. Lovejoy, in 1837, fell while defending his press from an attack by a mob. His remains were interred in the Alton cemetery, a beautiful spot donated by Maj. C. W. Hunter to the city. The Anti-Slavery Society of Illinois are taking steps for the erection of a monu- ment from 75 to 100 feet high, which, if constructed, will be a most conspicu- ous object, for a great distance, for all who are passing up or down the Mis- sissippi and Missouri Rivers. Rev. E. P. Lovejoy was born Nov. 9, 1802, at Albion, Kennebec county, Maine, then a part of Massachusetts. He was educated at Waterville College, Me., where he graduated with the highest honors of his class. In the latter part of 1827, he went to St. Louis, where he immediately engaged in teaching a school. He after- ward entered the Theological Seminary at Princeton, to prepare himself for the ministry. He returned to St. Louis, and, at the request of his friends, was induced to become the editor of a religious weekly newspaper, and accordingly, on the 22d of Nov., 1833, the first number of the " St. Louis Observer " was issued. In July, 230 ILLINOIS 1836, on account of the strong anti-slavery sentiments advocated in the paper, it became quite unpopular in St. Louis, and, taking the advice of his friends, he re- moved it to Alton. After the removal of the Observer office to Alton, its course on the abolition of slavery gave much offense to a portion of the inhabitants. A meeting was called, Mr. Lovejoy's course was denounced, and on the night of the 21st of August, 1837, ". party of some 15 or 20 men broke into the Observer office, and destroyed the press and printing materials. Another press was procured, and stored in the warehouse of Messrs. Godfrey, Oilman & Co., standing on the wharf at Alton. Threats having been given that this press would also be destroyed, Mr. Lovcjoy and some of his friends assembled to defend their property. On the night of IS or. 7, 1837, a mob, at first consisting of about 30 individuals, armed, some with stones and some with guns and pistols, formed themselves in a line by the warehouse. Mr. Oilman, one of the 'owners of the building, then asked them "what they wanted?" To which they replied, ".the press." Mr. G. replied, that, being au- thorized by the mayor, they would defend their property at the hazard of life. The mob commenced throwing stones, dashing in several windows, and then fired two or three guns into the building. The fire was then returned from within, two or three guns discharged upon the rioters, one, by the name of Bishop, was mor- tally wounded, and several others injured. This, for a while, checked the mob, but they soon returned with increased numbers and violence. They raised ladders on the warehouse, and kindled a fire on the roof Mr. Lovejoy and some of the inmates of the building stepped to the door, and while looking around just with- out the threshold, some one, concealed behind a pile of lumber, fired a double bar- reled gun, when Mr. Lovejoy was struck with five balls, and expired in a few mo- ments. The following is the principal part of a communication upon this riot, given by the mayor of Alton to the public, dated Nov. 6, 1837 : For several days past it had been announced and generally believed, that a printing press was hourly expected to be landed at our wharf. It had also been a current rumor that this press -ras intended for the re-estnblishment of the "Alton Observer." The circulation of these rumors produced no small degree of excitement, among those who had taken a de- cided stand against the abolition sentiments that were understood to have been disseminat- ed through the columns of the "Observer." Various reports of a threatening character, against the landing of the press, were in circulation, which led the friends of the Observer and its editor to make preparations to defend the press, in case any violence should be of- fered by those opposed to the publication of that paper. On Tuesday, about 5 o'clock in the morning, I was called from my lodgings and informed that the press had arrived at the wharf, and that my official interference was desired. I immediately repaired to the wharf, and remained there until the press was landed and stored in the warehouse of Messrs. God- frey, Oilman & Co. There were no indications of violence or resistance on the part of any at that time. The arrival of the " abolition press " (as it was called) was generally known in the early part of that day, wnich served to rekindle the excitement. Represen- tation was made to the common council of the threatening reports which were in circula- tion. The common council did not, however, deem it necessary to take any action on the subject. Gentlemen directly interested in protecting the press from mob violence, deemed it expedient to guard the warehouse with men and arms, in readiness to resist violence, should any be offered. During the early part of the night of Tuesday, it was reported through the city, that there were from 30 to 40 armed men on guard within the warehouse. At 10 o'clock at night, 20 or 30 persons appeared at the south end of the warehouse, and gave some indications of an attack. Mr. W. S. Gilnian, from the third story of the ware- house, addressed those without, and urged them to desist, and at the same time informed them that the persons in the warehouse were prepared, and should endeavor to protect their property, and that serious consequences might ensue. Those without demanded the press, anil said they would not be satisfied until it was destroyed; said they did not wish to in- jure any person, or other property, but insisted on having the press. To which Mr. G. re- ulied that the press could not be given up. The persons outside then repaired to the north \-rid of the building, and attacked the building by throwing stones, etc., and continued their violence for 15 or 2) minutes, when a gun was fired from one of the windows of the ware- house, ari*d a man named Lyman Bishop was mortally wounded. He was carried to a sur- geon's office, and then the mob withdrew and dispersed with the exception of a small num- ber. Upon the first indication of disturbance, I called on the civil officers most conveni- ent, and repaired with all dispatch to the scene of action. By this time the firing from ILLINOIS 231 the warehouse, and the consequent death of one of their number (Bishop died soon after he received the shot), had greatly increased the excitement, and added to the numbers of the mob. Owing to the late hour of the night, but few citizens were present at the onset, except those engaged in the contest. Consequently the civil authorities could do but little toward dispersing tl.e mob except by persuasion. A -large number of people soon collected around me. I was requested to go to the warehouse, and state to those within that those outside had resolved to destroy the press, and that they would not desist until they h id accomplished their object; that all would retire until I should return, which request was made by acclamation, and all soon retired to wait my return. I was replied to by those within the warehouse that they had assembled there to pro- tect their property against lawless violence, and that they were determined to do so. The mob began again to assemble with increased numbers, and with guns and weapons of dif- ferent kinds. I addressed the multitude, and commanded them to desist and disperse, to which they listened attentively and respectfully, to no purpose a rush was now made to the warehouse, with the cry of " fire the house," " burn them out," etc. The firing soon became fearful and dangerous between the contending parties so much so, that the farther interposition on the part of the civil authorities and citizens was believed altogether inad- equate, and hazardous in the extreme no means were at my control, or that of any other officer present, by which the mob could be dispersed, and the loss of life and the shedding of blood prevented. Scenes of the most daring recklessness and infuriated madness fol- lowed in quick succession. The building was surrounded and the inmates threatened with extermination and death in the most frightful form imaginable 'Every means of escape by flight was cut off. The scene now became one of most appalling and heart-rending in- terest! Fifteen or twenty citizens, among whom were some of our most worthy and en- terprising, were apparently doomed to an unenviable and inevitable death, if the flames continued. About the time the fire was communicated to the building, Rev. E. P. Lovejoy (late editor of the Observer), received four balls in his breast, near the door of the warehouse, and fell a corpse in a few seconds; two others from the warehouse were wounded. Sev- eral persons engaged in the attack were severely wounded; the wounds, however, are not considered dangerous. The contest had been raging for an hour or more, when the per- sons in the warehouse, by some means, the exact manner it was done I have not been able to ascertain, intimated that they would abandon the house and the press, provided that they were permitted to depart unmolested. The doors were then thrown open, and those within retreated down Front street. Several guns were fired upon them while retreating, and one individual had a narrow escape a ball passed through his coat near his shoulder. A large number of persons now rushed into the warehouse, threw the press upon the wharf, where it was broken in pieces and thrown into the river. The fire in the roof of the warehouse was extinguished by a spectator, who deserves great praise for his cour- ageous interference, and but little damage was done by it to the building. No disposition seemed to be manifested to destroy any other property in the warehouse. Without farther attempts at violence the mob now dispersed, and no farther open indications of disorder or violence have been manifested. The foregoing is stated on what I consider undoubted authority, and mostly from my own personal knowledge. JOHN M. KRUM, Mayor. CAIRO is a small town at the south-western extremity of Illinois, at the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi Rivers, 175 miles below St. Louis. It is also at the southern termination of the famous Illinois Central Rail- road, 454 miles distant by the main line of this road to Dunleith, its north- western termination on the Mississippi, and 365 miles distant from Chicago by the Chicago branch of the same. Cairo, from a very early day, was supposed, from its natural site at the junction of the two great rivers of the west, to be a point where an immense city would eventually arise, hence it has attracted unusual attention from enterprising capitalists as a point promising rich returns for investments in its soil. As soon as Illinois was erected into a state, in 1818, the legislature incorporated " the Bank of Cairo," which was connected with the project of building a city at this point. Since then two or more successive companies have been formed for this object; one of which has now the enterprise so far advanced that they entertain sanguine calculations of accomplishing the end so long sought amid great discouragements. 232 ILLINOIS. A primary obstacle to the success of the scheme is in the natural situation of the surface. For many miles in every direction the country is a low, rich bottom, and as the river here, in seasons of high water, rises fifty feet, the whole region becomes covered with water. To reme*dy this, an earthen dyke, or levee, some four miles in circuit, has been built around the town, at, it is said, a cost of nearly a million of dollars. This is shown by the map. From this levee projects an embankment like the handle of a dipper the levee itself around the town answering for the rim on which is laid the line of the Illinois Central Railroad. The annexed view shows at one glance, parts of three states Illinois, Missouri and Kentucky. It was taken on top of the levee, within a few hun- dred feet of the extreme south-western point of Il- linois, which is seen in the distance. The temporary depot of the Central Railroad and the St. Charles' Hotel appear in front. On the right is shown part of the town plat (some eight feet below the top of the levee), the bank of the levee between the specta- tor and the Mississippi River, before its junction with the Ohio, and the Missouri shore. On the left appears the Kentucky shore, and point where the Ohio, '-the beautiful river," pours itself into the bosom of the Mississippi, "the great father of waters," as he stretches himself south- ward in his majestic course to the ocean. The best buildings in Cairo are of brick, mainly stores, and are on the levee. The levee itself resembles an ordina- ry railroad embankment, and is about 50 feet broad on the surface. The town plat within the levee is regularly laid out, and a system of underground drainage adopted. The appear- MAP OF CAIRO AND ITS VICINITY. \ LEVBS AT CAIRO. Junction of the Ohio and Mississippi. ILLINOIS. 233 ance of the spot is like that of any ordinary river bottom of the west the surface level, with here and there left a forest tree, which, shooting upward its tall, slender form, shows, by its luxuriant foliage, the rich nature of the soil. The houses within the levee are mainly of wood, one and two stories in hight, and painted white. They are somewhat scattered, and the general aspect of the spot is like that of a newly settled western village, just after the log cabin era has vanished. Rochford. the capital of Winnebago county, is beautifully situated at the rapids of Rock River, on the Galena and Chicago Union Railroad, 92 miles westerly from Chicago. Steamers can come to this place. Great manufac- turing facilities are afforded by the immense water power here. Population I860; "5,281. Galesburg is in Knox county, 168 miles south-westerly from Chicago, at the junction of the Chicago and Burlington, Northern Cross, and Peoria and Oquawka Railroads. It is a fine town, and noted as a place of educa- tion; Knox College, Knox College for females, and Lombard University are situated here. Population about 6,000. Freeport is on a branch of Rock River, at the junction of the Illinois Cen- tral with the Galena and Chicago Union Railroad, 120 miles from Chicago. It is quite a manufacturing place, and is one of the largest grain depots in northern Illinois. Population about 5,000. South-eastern vieio of Galena, from near the Swing Bridge. The Steamboat landing is seen in tho central part. The Railroad Depot and the Seminary on an eleva- tion in the distance, appear on the right. The Draw or Swing Bridge is represented open, parts of which are seen on the right and left. GALENA, a flourishing city, and capital of Joe Daviess county, is situated on Fevre River, 6 miles from its entrance into the Mississippi, 1651 above New Orleans, 450 above St. Louis, 160 W.N.W. from Chicago, and 250 N. by W. from Springfield. The city is built principally on the western side of Fevre or Galena River, an arm of the Mississippi, and its site is a steep acclivity, except for a few rods along the river. The streets rise one above 234 ILLINOIS. another, the different tiers connecting by flights of steps. The town is well paved and the houses are. built of brick. The numerous hills overlooking the city are thickly studded with the mansions of the wealthy merchant or thrifty miner. Population 1860, 8,196. Galena is a French word, signifying " lead mine." Galena was formerly called Fevre River, the French word for wild lean, which grew here in great abundance. The city was first settled in 1826, and was then an outpost in the wilderness, about 300 miles from the settlements. The first settlement was begun at Old Town. Col. John Shaw, from the interior of New York, traversed this region from 1809 to 1812, extending his journeys to a point westward of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. He was engaged as a spy in this section in the war of 1812, and on one occasion it is said that he outrun three Indians in a chase of nine miles. When he first came to Galena, he found the Indians smelting lead on the town plat. Col. S. was the first one who carried lead to St. Louis for a regular price ; this was soon after the close of the war of 1812. He also, it is said, built the first flouring mill in .Wisconsin, four miles above Prairie du Chien. The first pine lumber sawed in that state was in his mill on Black River. Andrew C. and Moses Swan, of Pennsylvania, came to Galena in the fall of 1827, by the way of Green Bay and Wisconsin River: one of them kept the first regular tavern. It stood ou a site opposite the De Soto House. One of the early visitors at Galena was Ebenezer Brigham, who journeyed from Worcester, Mass., to St. Louis in 1818: the Upper Mississippi country was, at that period almost unknown. Beyond the narrative of PIKE'S Ex- pedition, and the vague report of hunters, boatmen, and a few lead diggers about Dubuque, the public possessed but little reliable information. In 1820, Mr. Brigham followed up the river to Galena. This place then con- sisted of one log cabin, and a second one commenced, which he assisted in ompleting. The first church erected was by the Presbyterians. The Miner's Journal" was started here in 1828, by Mr. Jones, who died of the cholera in 1832. The " Galena North-Western Gazette," was first issued in 1833, by Mr. H. H. Houghton, from Vermont. It was printed in a log house at the old town, about three fourths of a mile from the levee,. The first brick building here is said to have been erected by Capt. D. S. Harris, a native of New York. Capt. H. is also said to have constructed the first steamboat on the Upper Mississippi. It was built in 1838, and called the "Joe Daviess," in honor of Col. Joe Daviess, who fell at the battle of Tip- pecanoe. Galena is on the meridian of Boston, and is considered one of the most healthy locations in the United States. It is the most commodious harbor for steamboats on the Upper Mississippi, and a great amount of tunnage is owned here. Galena owes its growth and importance mainly to the rich mines of lead, with which it is surrounded in every direction. Con- siderable quantities of copper are found in connection with the lead. About 40,000,000 Ibs. of lead, valued at $1,600,000 have been shipped from this place during one season. It is estimated that the lead mines, in this vicinity, are capable of producing 150,000,000 Ibs. annually, for ages to come. Mine- ral from some 8 or 10 places, or localities, in Wisconsin, is brought to Ga- lena, and shipped for New Orleans and other markets. Since the comple- tion of the Illinois Central Railroad, a small portion of lead has been sent eastward by that road. The average price is about thirty dollars per thous and Ibs. ILLINOIS. 235 THE LEAD REGION. Outside of the town is the forbidding and desolate hill country of the lead region. Storms have furrowed the hills in every direction, and the shovels of the miners have dotted the whole surface with unsightly pits, walled around with heaps of limestone and sand, through which the delver has sought the lead. There is no culture around, and the edifices consist of the rude cabin of the miners, and primitive looking smelting furnaces where the lead is prepared for market. A late visitor gives the following description : Every hill is spotted with little mounds of yellow earth, and is as full of holes as a worin- eaten cheese. Some winding road at length brings you to the top of one of these bare, bleak hills, and to a larger mound of the same yellowish earth, with which the whole country in sight is mottled. On top of this mound of earth stands a windlass, and a man is winding up tubs full of dirt and rock, which continually increase the pile under his feet. Beneath him, forty, fifty, a hundred feet under ground, is the miner. As we look around on every ridge, see the windlass men, and know that beneath each one a smutty-faced miner .is burrowing by the light of a dim candle, let us descend into the mines and see the miners at their work. The windlass-man makes a loop in the end of the rope, into which you put one foot, and, clasping, at the same time, the rope with one hand, slowly you begin to go down ; down, it grows darker and darker ; a dan?p, grave-like smell comes up from below, and you grow dizzy with the continual whirling around, until, when you reach the bottom and look up at the one small spot of daylight through which you came down, you start with alarm as the great mass of rocks and earth over your head seem to be swaying and tumbling in. You draw your breath a little more freely, however, when you perceive that it was only your own dizziness, or the scudding of clouds across the one spot of visible sky, and you take courage to look about you. Two or three dark little passages, from four to six feet high, and about three feet wide, lend oft' into the murky recesses of the mine ; these are called, in mining parlance, drifts. You listen a little while, and there is a dull "thud! thud! " comes from each one, and tells of something alive away off in the gloom, and, ciiiidle in hind, you start in search of it. You eye the rocky walls and roof uneasily as, half bent, you thread the narrow passage, until, on turning some angle in the drift, you catch a glimpse of the miner, he looks small and dark, and mole-like, as on his knees, and pick in hand, he is prying from a perpendicular crevice in the rock, a lump of mineral as large as his head, and which, by the light of his dim candle, flashes and gleams like a huge carbuncle ; or, perhaps, it, is a horizontal sheet or vein of mineral, that presents its edge to the miner ; it is imbedded in the solid rock, which must be picked and blasted down to get at the mineral. He strikes the rock with his pick, and it rings as though he had struck an anvil. You can conceive how, with that strip of gleaming metal, seeming like a magician's wand, to beckon him on and on, he could gnaw, as it were, his narrow way for hundreds of feet through the rock. But large, indeed, you think, must be his or- gan of hope, and resolute his perseverance, to do it with no such glittering prize in sight. Yet such is often the case, and many a miner has toiled for years, and in the whole time has discovered scarcely enough mineral to pay for the powder used. Hope, however, in the breast of the miner, has as many lives as a cat, and on no day, in all his toilsome years, could you go down into his dark and crooked hole, a hundred feet from grass and sunshine, but he would tell you that he was "dose to it now," in a few days he hoped to strike a lode (pronounced among miners as though it was spelled leed), and so a little longer and a little longer, and his life of toil wears away while his work holds him with a fascination equaled only by a gamblers' passion for his cards. Lodes or veins of mineral in the same vicinity run in the general direction. Those in the vicinity of Galena, run east and west. The crevice which contains the mineral, is usually perpendicular, and from 1 to 20 feet in width, extending from the cap rock, or the first solid rock above the mineral, to uncertain depths below, and is filled with large, loose rocks, and a peculiar red dirt, in which are imbedded masses of mineral. These masses are made up cubes like those formed of crystallization, and many of them as geo- 236 ILLINOIS. metrically correct as could be made with a qompass and square. Before the mineral ig broken, it is of the dull blue color of lead, but when broken, glistens like silver. Some- times caves are broken into, whose roofs are frosted over with calcareous spar, as pure and white as the frost upon the window pane in winter, and from dark crevices in the floor comes up the gurgling of streams that never saw the sun. The life of a miner is a dark and lonesome one. His drift is narrow, and will not admit of two abreast ; therefore, there is but little conversation, and no jokes are bandied about from mouth to mouth, by fellow-laborers. The alternations of hope and disappointment give, in the course of years, a subdued expression to his countenance. There are no certain indications by which the miner can determine the existence of a vein of mineral without sinking a shaft. Several methods are resorted to, however. The linear arrangement of any number of trees that are a little larger than the generality of their neighbors, is considered an indication of an opening underground corresponding to their arrangement. Depressions in the general surface are also favorable signs, and among the older miners there are yet some believers in the mystic power of witch-hazel and the divining rod. In the largest number of cases, however, but little attention is paid to signs other than to have continuous ground that is, to dig on the skirts of a ridge that is of good width on top, so that any vein that might be discovered would not run out too quickly on the other side of the ridge. On such ground the usual method of search is by suckering, as it is called. The miner digs a dozen or more holes, about six feet deep, and within a stone's throw of each other, and in some one of these he is likely to find a few pieces of mineral, the dip of certain strata of clay then indicates the direction in which he is to continue the search, in which, if he is so successful as to strike a lode, his fortune is made ; in the other event, he is only the more certain that the lucky day is not fax off. North-western view of Rock Island City. The viow shows the appearance of the city as seen from Davenport, on the opposite bank of the Missis- sippi. The ferry landing appears on the left, the Court House and Presbyterian Churches ou the right. ROCK ISLAND CITY, and county scat of Rock Island Co., is situated on the Mississippi River, opposite the city of Davenport, 2 miles above the mouth of Rock River, 178 W. by S., from Chicago, and 131 N. N. W. of Springfield. It is at the foot of the Upper Rapids of the Mississippi, which extend nearly 15 miles, and in low stages of water obstruct the passage of loaded vessels. It is a flourishing manufacturing place, at the western ter- minus of the Chicago and Rock Island Railroad. Pop. 1860, 5,130. It derives its name from an island three miles in length, the southern ex- tremity of which is nearly opposite the town. The principal channel of the river is on the west side of the island, while that on its eastern side has been so dammed as to produce a vast water power above and a good harbor below. The island forms one of the capacious buttresses of the immense railroad ILLINOIS. 237 bridge across the Mississippi, connecting the place with Davenport, and creates a junction between the railroad from Chicago and the Mississippi, and the Mis- souri Railroad through Iowa. Fort Armstrong, on Rock Island, was erected in 1816, by Lieut. Col. Lawrence, of the United States Army. It was then in the heart of the- In- dian country, and was the scene of many wild exploits, both be- fore and during the continuance of the " Black Hawk War," The old chief, Black Hawk, was born in 1768, on Rock River, about three miles from where the fort now stands. From the time this fortification was first constructed, until the close of the war above mentioned, this fort was used as a depot of supplies, etc., and for a long time was commanded by Col. Z. Taylor, afterward presi- dent of the United States. Col. William L-iwrence, the founder of the fort, arrived here May 10, 1816, with the 8th regiment and a company of riflemen. As soon as they had completed their encampment, he employed the soldiers to cut logs and build storehouses for the provisions, and had a bake house and oven put up. This was the first regular building erected at this point. " The soldiers now set to work to build the fort, which was named Fort Arm- strong. At this time there lived a large body of Indians in the vicinity, number- ing some 10,000, divided in three villages, one on the east side of the river, near the foot of the island called 'Waupello Village;' about three miles south on the bank of Rock River, stood the famous village of ' Black Hawk,' and on the west side of the river was a small village named after an old brave, 'Oshkosh.' Upon the first arrival of the troops on the Island, the Indians were very much dissatis- fied, but the officers took great pains to gain their friendship, by making them many presents, and they soon became reconciled and were most excellent neigh- bors. During the first summer they would frequently bring over supplies of sweet corn, beans, pumpkins, and such other vegetables as they raised, and present them to Mr. Davenport and the officers, with the remarks that they had raised none, and that they themselves had plenty, invariably refusing to take any pay." Four AKM.sritoMi, Kocit ISLAND. The following account of the defeat of Maj. Zachary Taylor, at Rock Is- land, in August 1814, is from the personal narrative of Mr. J. Shaw, of Wis- consin : About two months after the capture of Prairie du Chien, Maj. Zachary Taylor came up the Mississippi, with 22 fortified boats, each containing an average of about 80 men, under his command. When the expedition arrived near Rock Is- land, it was discovered that about 4,000 Indians bad there collected. The British had erected a false, painted battery, on the left bank of the river, apparently mounted with six twelve-pounders ; but in reality they had but two guns with them, one of which was entrusted to the care of the Indians. Mr. Shaw was on board the boat with Mr. Taylor. The battle commenced, and the first ball from the British guns passed completely through the advance boat, on which was Tay- lor, and ha instantly ordered it to be put about; the second ball cut off the steering oar of the next boat that was advancing, and a strong -wind springing up at that moment, this boat drifted over the river to the western bank, a short distance below the present town of Davenport; the men having no oar to steer 2:jg ILLINOIS. with, could not prevent this occurrence. About 1,000 Indians immediately took to their canoes, and paddled over the river, expecting, no doubt, to get the boat as a prize, as she must inevitably drift into shallow water. The Indians kept up a constant fire on the unfortunate boat, and a number of Indians, mounted on horse- back, came galloping down the western shore, with their guns elevated in their right hands, gleaming in the sun, and shouting their war-cries in the most hideous manner. On the first fire from the British guns, and immediately after the pas- sage of the ball through the foremost boat, Maj. Taylor had ordered a retreat. Gen. Samuel Whiteside, who had command of one of the boats, impelled with the natural desire of assisting the disabled boat, that was drifting across the river, in- to the power of merciless enemies, disobeyed the order, and steered toward the disabled craft. When he approached it, he called for "some brave man to cast a cable from his own boat on board of her." An individual, named Paul Harpole, jumped from the disabled boat, in a most exposed situation, caught the caWe, and made it fast to the boat. In less than a minute's time, a thousand Indians would have been aboard of her; she was then in two and a half feet water, among small willows, which in some measure protected the Indians. In the mean while, Har- pole called for guns to be handed him from below; stood on the deck of the boat completely exposed; fired no less than 14 guns, when he was eventually struck in the forehead by a ball; he pitched forward toward the Indians, and the instant he struck the water, the savages had hold of him, hauled him on shore, and cut him with their knives into a hundred pieces. All this was witnessed by the other boats, and the crippled boat having been towed off into deep water, the whole body retreated, and descended the Mississippi. Fort Armstrong was finally evacuated by the United States troops, May 4, 1836. Col. Davenport had a fine situation near the fort, about half a mile distant. At first he supplied the fort with provisions, and was after- ward extensively engaged in the Indian trade. He was murdered, at the age of 62, while alone in his house, on the island, on July 4, 1845, by a band of robbers. The following account is from "Wilkies" Hist, of Daven- port, Past and Present : " On last Friday afternoon we were witness to a strange and interesting ceremony performed by the Indians, over the remains of Mr. Davenport, who was murdered at his residence on Rock Island, on the 4th inst. Upon preceding to the beautiful spot selected as his last resting place, in the rear of his mansion on Rock Island, we found the war chief and braves of the band of Fox Indians, then encamped in the vicinity of this place, reclining on the grass around his grave, at the head of which was planted a white cedar post, some seven or eight feet in hight. The ceremony began by two of the braves rising and walking to the post, upon which, with paint, they began to inscribe certain characters, while a third brave, armed with an emblematic war club, after drinking to the health of the deceased, from a cup placed at the base of the post, walked three times around the grave, in an opposite direction to the course of the sun, at each revolution delivering a speech with sundry gestures and emphatic motions in the direction of the north- east. When he had ceased, he passed the club to another brave, who went through the same ceremony, passing but once around the grave, and so in succession with each one of the braves. This ceremony, doubtless, would appear pantomimic to one unacquainted with the habits or language of the Indians, but after a full in- terpretation of their proceedings, they would be found in character with this tra- ditionary people. In walking around the grave in a contrary direction to the course of the sun, they wished to convey the idea that the ceremony was an original one. In their speeches they informed the Great Spirit that Mr. Davenport was their friend, and t! ey wished the Great Spirit to open the door to him, and to take charge of him. The enemies whom they had slain, they called upon to act in capacity of waiters to Mr. Davenport, in the spirit land they believing that they have unlimited power over the spirits of those whom they have slain in battle. Their gestures toward the north-east, were made in allusion to their great enemies, the Sioux, who live ILLINOIS. 239 in that direction. They recounted their deeds of battle, with the number that they had slain and taken prisoners. Upon the post were painted, in hieroglyphics, the number of the enemy that they had slain, those taken prisoners, together with the tribe and station of the brave. For instance, the feats of Wau-co-shaw-she, the chief, were thus portrayed: Ten headless figures were painted, which signified that he had killed ten men. Four others were then addeed, one of them smaller than the others, signifying that he had taken four prisoners, one of whom was a child. A line was then run from one figure to another, terminating in a plume, signifying that all had been accomplished by a chief. A fox was then painted over the plume, which plainly told that the chief was of the Fox tribe of Indians. These characters are so expressive, that if an Indian of any tribe whatsover were to see them, he would at once understand them. Following the sign of Pau-tau-co-to, who thus proved himself a warrior of high degree, were placed 20 headless figures, being the number of Sioux that he. had slain. The ceremony of painting the post was followed by a feast, prepared for the oc- casion, which by them was certainly deemed the most agreeable part of the pro- ceedings. Meats, vegetables, and pies, were served up in such profusion that many armsful of the fragments were carried off" it being a part of the ceremony, which is religiously observed, that all the victuals left upon such an occasion are to be taken to their homes. At a dog feast, which is frequently given by them- selves, and to which white men are occasionally invited, the guest is either obliged to eat all that is placed before him, or hire some other person to do so, else it ia considered a great breach of hospitality. Distant view of Nauvoo. The view shows the appearance of Nauvoo, as it is approached when sailing up the Mississippi. NAUVOO, Hancock county, is 103 miles N. W. by W. from Springfield; 52 above Quincy, and 220 above St. Louis. It is laid out on an extensive plan, on one of the most beautiful sites on the river for a city. In conse- quence of a graceful curve of the Mississippi, it bounds the town on the north-west, west, and south-west. The ground rises gradually from the water to a considerable hight, presenting a smooth and regular surface, with a broad plain at the summit. The place has now about 1,500 inhabitants, the majority of whom are Germans; there are, also, French and American settlers. The inhabitants have fine gardens, wine is manufactured, and many cattle are raised. Nauvoo, originally the village of Commerce, is noted as the site of the Mor- mon city, founded by Joseph Smith, in 1840. The population, at one time, when under the Mormon rule, was estimated at about 18,000. The dwell- ings were mostly log cabins, or small frame houses. The great Mormon Temple the remains of which are still, by far, the most conspicuous object in the place was 128 feet long. 88 feet M'ide, and 65 feet high to the cor- 2 tO ILLINOIS. nice, and 163 feet to the top of the cupola. It would accommodate an as- semblage of 3,000 persons. It was built of polished limestone resembling marble, and obtained on the spot. The architecture, in its main features, resembled the Doric. In the basement of the temple was a large stone basin or baptistry, supported by 12 oxen of a colossal size ; it was about 15 feet high, altogether of white stone and well carved. This building, at that time, without an equal at the west, was fired October 9, 1848, and for the most part reduced to a heap of ruins. It is believed that Capt. White erected the first building in the place, a log cabin near the river, about a mile westward of where the temple after- ward stood. Mr. Gallard brought out Capt. White ; he lived in a two story house near the log cabin. Smith, the Mormon, when he first came to Nauvoo, put up with Mr. G. : he purchased about a mile square of territory. He built the Mansion House near the river. Smith's widow, who is described as amiable and intelligent, married Maj. Bideman. The Mormon Church property was sold to a company of French socialists, about 600 in number, under M. Cabot, for about $20,000. It appears that many of the French are leaving the place, finding that they can do better elsewhere, individually, than by living in common with others. After the Mormons had been driven from Missouri, the people of Illinois received them with great kindness. When they had established themselves at Nauvoo, the legislature granted them extraordinary powers, and the city laws, in some respects, became superior to those of the state. Under these laws, difficulties ensued. Smith acted as mayor, general of the Nauvoo Le- gion, keeper of the Nauvoo Hotel, and as their religious prophet, whose will was law. Smith, and some others, forcibly opposed the process issued against them for a riot. The people were aroused at their resistance, and deter- mined that the warrants should be executed. In June 1844, some 3,000 militia 'from the adjacent country, and bands from Missouri and Iowa, as- sembled in the vicinity of Nauvoo. Gov. Ford hastened to the spot to pre- vent blood-shed. On the 24th, Gen. Joseph Smith, the prophet, and his brother, Gen. Hyrum Smith, having received assurances of protection from the governor, surrendered, and went peaceably to prison, at Carthage, to await their trial for treason. On the evening of the 27th, the guard of the jail were surprised by a mob of some 200 men disguised, who overpowered them, broke down the door, rushed into the room of the prisoners, fired at random, severely wounding Taylor, editor of the Nauvoo Neighbor. They finished by killing the two Smiths, after which they returned to their homes. In Sept. 1845, the old settlers of Hancock county, exasperated by the lawless conduct of the Mormons, determined to drive them from the state, and commenced by burning their farm houses, scattered through the county. The result was, that they were compelled to agree to emigrate beyond the settled parts of the United States. On the 16th of September, 1846, the Anti-Mormons took possession of Nauvoo. Whatever doubts might have then existed abroad, as to the justice of the course pursued by them, it is now evident by the subsequent history of the Mormons, that they are, as a people, governed by doctrines which render them too infamous to dwell in the heart of civilized communities. Rev. Peter Cartwright, the celebrated pioneer Methodist itinerant of UK- ILLINOIS. 241 nois, gives this amusing account of an interview he had with Joe Smith, the father of Mormonism : At an early day after they were driven from Missouri and took up their residence in Illinois, it fell to my lot to become acquainted with Joe Smith, personally, and with many of their leading men and professed followers. On a certain occasion L fell in witli Joe Smith, and was formally and officially introduced to him in Spring- field, then our county town. We soon fell into a free conversation on the, subject of religion, and Mormonism in particular. I found him to be a very illiterate and impudent desperado in morals, but, at the same time, he had a vast fund of low cunning. In the first place, he made his onset on me by flattery, and he laid on the soft eodder thick and fast He expressed great and almost unbounded pleasure in the high privilege of becoming acquainted with me, one of whom he had heard so many great and good things, and he had no doubt I was one among God's noblest creatures, an honest man. He believed that among all the churches in the world, the Methodist was nearest right, and that, as far as they went, they were right Hut they had stopped short by not claiming the gift of tongues, of prophecy, and of miracles, and then quoted a batch of scripture to prove his positions correct Upon the whole, he did pretty well for clumsy Joe. I gave him rope, as the sail- ors say, and, indeed, I seemed to lay this flattering unction pleasurably to my Boul. " Indeed," said Joe, " if the Methodists would only advance a step or two further, they would take the world. We Latter-day Saints are Methodists, as far as they have gone, only we have advanced further, and if you would come in and go with us, we could sweep not only the Methodist Church, but all others, and you would be looked up to as one of the Lord's greatest prophets. You would ' be honored by countless thousands, and have, of the good things of this world, all that heart could wish." I then began to inquire into some of the tenets of the Latter-day Saints. He explained. 1 criticized his explanations, till, unfortunately, we got into high de- bate, and he cunningly concluded that his first bait would not take, for he plainly saw I was not to be flattered out of common sense and honesty. The next pass he made at me was to move upon my fears. He said that in all ages of the world, the good and right way was evil spoken of, and that it was an awful thing to fight against God. "Now," said he, "if you will go with me to Nauvoo, I will show you many living witnesses that will testify that they were, by the Saints, cured of blindness, lame- ness, deafness, dumbness, and all the diseases that human flesh is heir to; and I will show you," said he, " that we have the gift of tongues, and can speak in un- known languages, and that the Saints can drink any deadly poison, and it will not hurt them ; " and closed by saying, " the idle stories you hear about us are noth ing but sheer persecution.' J then gave him the following history of an encounter I had at a camp-meeting in Morgan county, some time before, with some of his Mormons, and assured him 1 could prove all I said by thousands that were present The camp meeting was numerously attended, and we had a good and gracious work of religion going on among the people. On Saturday there came some 20 or 30 Mormons to the meeting. During the intermission after the eleven o'clock sermon, they cellected in one corner of the encampment, and began to sing, they sang well. As fast as the people rose from their dinners they drew up to hear the singing, and the scattering crowd drew until a large company sur- rounded them. 1 was busy regulating matters connected with the meeting. At length, according, I have no doubt, to a preconcerted plan, an old lady Mormon began to shout, and after shouting a while she swooned away and fell into the arms of her husband. The old man proclaimed that his wife had gone into a trance, and that when she came to she would speak in an unknown tongue, and that he would interpret This proclamation produced considerable excitement, and the multitude crowded thick around. Presently the old lady arose and be- gan to speak in an unknown tongue, sure enough, 16 242 ILLINOIS. Just then my attention was called to the matter. I saw in one moment that the whole maneuver was intended to bring the Mormons into notice, and break up the good of our meeting. I advanced, instantly, toward the crowd, and asked the people to give way and let me in to this old lady, who was then being held in the arms of her husband. I came right up to them, and took hold of her arm, and or- dered her peremptorily to hush that gibberish ; that I would have no more of it ; that it was presumptuous, and blasphemous nonsense. I stopped very suddenly her unknown tongue. She opened her eyes, took me by the hand, and said: " My dear friend, T have a message directly from God to you." I stopped her abort, and said, " 1 will have none of your messages. If God can speak through no better medium than an old, hypocritical, lying woman, I will hear nothing of it." Her husband, who was to be the interpreter of her message, flew into a mighty rage, and said, ''Sir, this is my wife, and J will defend her at the risk of my life. ' I replied, "Sir, this is my camp-meeting, and L will maintain the good order of it at the risk of my life. If this is your wife, take her off from here, and clear your- selves in five minutes, or 1 will have you under guard." The old lady slipped out and was off quickly. The old man stayed a little, and began to pour a tirade of abuse on me. 1 stopped him short, and said, "Not an- other word of abuse from you, sir. I have no doubt you are an old thief, and if your back was examined, no doubt you carry the marks of the cowhide for your villainy." And sure enough, as if I had spoken by inspiration, he, in some of the old states, had been lashed to the whipping-post for stealing, and I tell you, the old man began to think other persons had visions besides his wife, but he was very clear from wishing to interpret my unknown tongue. To cap the climax, a young gentleman stepped up and said he had no doubt all I said of this old man was true, and much more, for he had caught him stealing corn out of his father's crib. By this time, such was the old man's excitement, that the great drops of sweat ran down his face, and he called out, "Don't crowd me, gentlemen, it is mighty warm." Said I, " Open the way, gentlemen, and let him out." When the way was opened, I cried, " Now start, and don't show your face here again, nor one of the Mormons. If you do, you will get Lynch! s law." They all disappeared, and our meeting went on prosperously, a great many were converted to God, and the church was much revived and built up in her holy faith. My friend, Joe Smith, became very restive before T got through with my narra- tive ; and when I closed, his wrath boiled over, and he cursed me in the name of his God, and said, " I will show you, sir, that I will raise up a government in these United States which will overturn the present government, and I will raise up a new religion that will overturn every other form of religion in this country ! " "Yes, 1 said I, "Uncle Joe, but my Bible tells me 'the bloody and deceitful matt shall not live out half his days,' and 1 expect the Lord will send the devil after you some of these days, and take you out of the way." "No, sir," said he, "I shall live and prosper, while you will die in your sins." " Well, sir," said I, " if you live and prosper, you must quit your stealing and abominable whoredoms ! " Thus we parted, to meet no more on earth; for, in a few years after this, an outraged and deeply injured people took the law into their own hands, and killed him, and drove the Mormons from the state. They should be considered and treated as outlaws in every country and clime. The two great political parties in the state were nearly equal, and these wretched Mormons, for several years, held the balance of power, and they were always in market to the highest bidder. and I have often been put to the blush to see our demagogues and stump orators, from both political parties, courting favors from the Mormons, to gain a triumph in an election. Great blame has been attached to the state, the citizens of Hancock conn in which Nauvoo is situated, as well as other adjoining counties, for the part tliey acted in driving the Mormons from among them. But it should be remembered they had no redress at law, for it is beyond all doubt that the Mormons would swear anything, true or false. They stole the stock, plundered and burned the houses and barns of the citizens, and there is no doubt they privately murdered ILLINOIS. 243 some of the best people in the county; and owing to the perjured evidence al- ways at their command, it was impossible to have any legal redress. If it had not been for this state of things, Joe Smith would not have been killed, and they would not have been driven with /violence from the state. Repeated efforts were made to get redress for these wrongs and outrages, but all to no purpose; and the wonder is, how the people bore as long as they did with the outrageous villainies practiced on them, without a resort to violent measures. View of Mt. Joliet. JOLIET is a thriving town, the county seat of Will co., situated on both sides of the Des Plaines River, and on the Illinois and Michigan canal, 148 miles N. E. by N. from Springfield, 280 from Detroit, and 40 S. W. from Chicago. It was formerly known on the maps as " McGree's mill dam." On the eastern side of the river the city extends over a plain of considerable extent, rising as it recedes from the river. Upon the western side the land is formed into bluffs, beneath which is one of the principal streets. It is an important station on the Chicago and Rock Island, and the Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis Railroads, and is connected directly with the east by Joliet and Northern (cut-off) Railroads. The river affords valuable water power for mills. It is the center of considerable commerce, several manu- factories ; and in its vicinity is a rich farming country, and valuable quar- ries of building stone. The new state penitentiary is in the vicinity. Popu- ation about 7,000. Joliet received its name from Mt. Joliet, a mound supposed to be an arti- ficial elevation, situated about two and a half miles S. W. of the court house in this place, and so called from Louis Joliet, who was born of French pa- rents, at Quebec, in 1673. He was commissioned by M. de Frontenac to discover the Great River, some affluents of which had been visited by mis- sionaries and traders. Joliet chose, for his companion, Father Mn Detroit. Lieut. Watson of the British army waited upon Mr. Kin/.ie one day, with an invitation to the quarters of Gen. Proctor, on the opposite side of the river, saying he wished to speak with him on business. Quite unsuspicious, he complied with the invita- tion, when to hw surprise he was ordered into confinement, and strictly guarded in the house of his former partner, Mr. Patterson, of Sandwich. Finding that he did not return io his homo, Mrs. Kinzie informed some of the Indian chiefs, his particular friends, who ^immediately repaired to the head-quarters of the commanding officer, demanded their "friend's" release, and brought him back to his home. After waiting a time until a fa- vorable opportunity presented itself, the general sent a detachment of dragoons to arrest him. They had succeeded in carrying liim away, and crossing the river with him. Just at this moment a party of friendly Indians made their appearance. " Where is the Shaw-nee-aw-kee? " was the first question. " There," replied his wife, pointing across the river, " in the hands of the red-coats, who are taking him away again." The Indians ran to the river, seized some canoes that they found there, and crossing over to Sandwich, compelled Gen. Pioctor a second time to forego his intentions. A third time this officer was more successful, and succeeded in arresting Mr. Kinzie and conveying him heavily ironed to Fort Maiden, in Canada, at the mouth of the Detroit River. Here he was at first treated with great severity, but after a time the rigor of his 264 MICHIGAN. confinement was somewhat relaxed, and he was permitted to walk on the bank of the river for air and exercise. On the 10th of September, as he was taking his promenade under the close suporvision of a guard of soldiers, the whole party were startled by the sound of guns upon Lake Erie, at no great distance below. What could it mean? It must be Commodore Barclay firing into some of the Yankees. The firing continued. The time allotted the prisoner for his daily walk expired, but neither he nor his guard observed the lapse of time, so anxiojsly were they listening to what they now felt sure was an engagement between ships of war. At length Mr. Kinzie was reminded that the hour for his return to confinement had arrived. He petitioned for another half-hour. " Let me stay," said he, " till we can learn how the battle has gone." Very soon a sloop appeared under press of sail, rounding the point, and presently two gun-boats in chase of her. " She is running she bears the British colors," cried he, " yes, yes, they are lowering she is striking her flag! Now," turning to the soldiers, " I will go back to prison con- tented I know how the battle has gone." The sloop was the Little Belt, the last of the squadron captured by the gallant Perry on that memorable occasion which he announced in the immortal words: " We have met the enemy, and they are ours! " Matters were growing critical, and it was necessary to transfer all prisoners to a place of greater security than the frontier was now likely to be. It was resolved, therefore, to send Mr. Kinzie to the mother country. Nothing has evec appeared, which would explain the course of Gen. Proctor, in regard to this gentleman. He had been taken from the bosom of his family, where he was living quietly under the parole which he had received, and protected by the stipulations of the surrender. He was kept for months in confine- ment. Now he was placed on horseback under a strong guard, who announced that they had orders to shoot him through the head if he offered to speak to a person upon the road. He was tied upon the saddle in a way to prevent his escape, and thus they sat out for Quebec. A little incident occurred, which will help to illustrate the course invariably pur- sued toward our citizens at this period, by the British army on the north-western frontier. The saddle on which Mr. Kinzie rode had not been properly fastened, and owing to -the rough motion of the animal on which it was, it turned, so as to bring the rider into a most awkward and painful position. His limbs being fastened, he could not disengage himself, and in this manner he was compelled by those who had charge of him to ride until he was nearly exhausted, before they had the humanity to release him- Arrived at Q,uebec, he was put on board a small vessel to be sent to England. The ves- sel when a few days out at sea was chased by an American frigate and driven into Hali- fax. A second time she set sail, when she sprung a leak and was compelled to put back. The attempt to send him across the ocean was now abandoned, and he was returned to Quebec. Another step, equally inexplicable with his arrest, was now taken. This was his release and that of Mr. Macomb, of Detroit, who was also in confinement in Quebec, and the permission given them to return to their friends and families, although the war was not yet ended. It may possibly be imagined that in the treatment these gentlemen received, the British commander-in-chief sheltered himself under the plea of their being " native born British subjects," and perhaps when it was ascertained that Mr. Kinzie was indeed a citizen of the United States, it was thought safest to release him. In the meantime, Gen. Harrison at the head of his troops had readied Detroit. He landed on the 29th September. All the citizens went forth to meet him Mrs. Kinzie, leading her children by the hand, was of the number. The general accompanied her to her home, and took up his abode there. Watson visited Detroit in the summer of 1818, and has given in his Remi- niscences a sketch of his visit, descriptive of what then fell under his notice here: Here I am at the age of sixty in Detroit, seven hundred miles west of Albany. I little d: earned thirty years ago, that I should ever tread upon this territory The location of Detroit is eminently pleasant, being somewhat elevated, and boldly front- ing it- beautiful river. The old town has been burnt, which was a cluster of miserable B'ructures picketed in and occupied by the descendants of Frenchmen, who pitched their tent-! here early in the seventeenth century in prosecution of the fur trade. The city is now laid out upon a large scale, the streets spacious, and crossing at right angles. The main street is called Jetterson-a venue, and stretches the whole length of the city. De- troit must always be the emporium of a vast and fertile interior. By the existing estima- tion of tho value of real estate here, it has, I think, been greatly overrated. Commerce MICHIGAN. 265 is languishing, and agriculture at its lowest degradation. In proof of this, I saw at the Grand Marie, four miles north of the city, a large, clumsy, wooden plow, such as doubt less were in use in France, at the period of the emigration from that country of the ances- tors of this people. It was drawn by two yoke of oxen and two horses, and was con- ducted by three men, who were making as much noise as if they were moving a barn. The most attractive object I have seen on this beautiful river are its innumerable and lovely islands, most of which are cultivated. The dense forest approaches in close prox- imity to the city, and spreads over a level surface quite into the interior. From the high- est point of elevation I could attain, I discerned no uplands, all was a dead plain. The land belongs to the government, and is of the richest quality, but has hitherto been represented as unhealthy. The territory of Michigan has not been adequately explored; but while I was at Detroit, several parties of enterprising and energetic young men penetrated into the woods with packs on their shoulders to investigate, and returned with the most glow- ing and flattering accounts of a country of the choicest land, generally undulating, aittt requiring nothing but the vigorous arm of industry to convert it into the granary of America. The near approach of the wilderness to Detroit, brings the howling wolves within a short distance of the city, and I was frequently called on to listen to their shrill cries in the calm, hot nights. The numerous and large old orchards of the finest apples, origin- ally imported from France, and the extensive fisheries of white fish in the vicinity, gre;itly augment the wealth and comfort of the people. Although possessing the most lei-tile soil such is the wretched character of their agriculture, tht the inhabitants are mainly de- pendent upon the young and thriving state of Ohio, for their supplies of pork, beef, bread- stuffs, and even of potatoes. * . East view of the State House at Lansing. The engraving shows the front or the eastern side of the Michigan State Capitol. One of the Union Public Schools is seen in the distance on the left, and the State building containing the office of the Secre- tary of State, Auditor, etc., on the right. I daily notice squaws fighting in the streets like wild-cats, and in conditions too revolt- ing to describe. They lay about the city like swine, begging for cats and dogs, which they devour at the river side half-cooked. The most disgusting and loathsome sight I ever witnessed, was that of a coarse, fat, half-naked Indian, as filthy as a beast, under n tree immediately in front of my son's residence, filling his mouth with whisky until hi.s cheeks were completely distended, and then two or three squaws in succession sucking it out of the corners. 1 called my daughter-in-law to see the revolting sight, but she as sured me it was nothing unusual, and that the practice was common with this tribe of In- dians. I often visited the fort that my old friend Hull so fatally and ignominiously sur- rendered. Col. Myers, who was in command of Fort George at its capture, informed me while a prisoner in Pittsfield, that one half of Brock's army, at the surrender of Detroit, wore Canadian militia dressed in British red coats. LANSING, the capital of Michigan, is situated on both sides of Grand River, here a large mill stream, 85 miles N. W. of Detroit, 20 from St. Johns on the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, and 40 from Jackson on the Central 266 MICHIGAN. Railroad. The town, which is laid out on an extended plan, has at present a scattered appearance. The state capitol (of wood) was erected in the sum- mer of 1847. at an expense of about $15,000. The state agricultural college is situated three and a half miles east from the capital, and has a model farm of about 700 acres: it is crowded with pupils, and the noble example set by Michigan, in founding this institution, has been followed by several other states. The house of Correction, for juvenile offenders, opened in 1856, is about three fourths of a mile east from the capital. In 1852, a plank road to Detroit was constructed, at an expense of $130,000. Plank roads also connect it with Jackson and Marshall. Population about 3,000. *The lands comprising the northern part of Lansing were first entered from the United States, in 1836, by James Seymour, Frederic Bushnell, and Charles M. Lee, of Rochester, New York. The first settler was John W. Burchard, a young lawyer, who bought, on the east side of Grand River, 109 acres of James Seymour, situated at the lower town bridge extending up the river to the school section. He built a log cabin still standing in the rear of the Seymour House. This was in 1843 ; and in June of the same year, he removed his family to this place, and immediately commenced building a saw-mill and dam. In the spring of 1844, he was drowned while amusing himself, in a boat, at the sheet of water which fell over the dam, which he had constructed. Approaching too near, his boat was overturned, and he perished amid the eddying waters. He was buried at Mason, 12 miles distant, universally lamented. He was a man of much promise, and was the first prose- cuting attorney in the county. On the death of Mr. Burchard, his family left the place, and the settlement was, for a short time, abandoned, and the lands and im- provements reverted back to Mr. Seymour. In Aug. 1844, Mr. Seymour employed Joab Page, and his two sons-in-law, Whit- ney Smith and Geo. D. Pease, all of Mason, to finish the mill, etc. All these lived in Burchard's log house for several years. In Jan. 1847, Mr. Seymour made a proposition to the legislature of Michigan, that if they would remove the seat of government on to his lands, he would give 20 acres, erect the capitol and buildings for the use of the state. This offer, how- ever, was not accepted ; but they passed an act to locate the capital in the town- ship. A commission was appointed, consisting of the commissioner of the land office, James Seymour, and Messrs. Townsend and Brother, of New York, to make a definite location. The commission selected a spot on which to erect a capitol building, one mile from the Burchard Mill, on section 16, called the " School Sec- tion." The commission, in May of the same year, united in laying out a town plat, two and one fourth miles long, and one wide, comprising both sides of the river. At this period there were no settlers on the tract but the Page family, whose nearest neighbors, on the south and east, were four and a half miles distant, and one settler, Justus Gilkley, a mile and a half to the north-west. Within a few weeks after the town was laid out, one thousand persons moved into the place. The following are the names of some of the first settlers besides those already mentioned: E. B. Danforth, D. L. Case, James Turner, Charles P. Bush, George W. Peck, John Thomas, Whitney Jones, A. T. Grossman, Henry C. Walker, C. C. Darling, Dr. B. S. Taylor, J. C. Bailey, M. W. Quackenbush. Lansing received its name from Lansing in New York, from which some of the settlers had emigrated. The first public worship in the place was held in the Bur- chard log house, by the Methodist traveling preachers. In 1849, the Methodists and Presbyterians united in building the first church in the place, now solely oc- cupied by the Methodists. The first Presbyterian clergyman here, was the Rev. S. Millard, from Dexter. The first school was kept in a little shanty built in 1847 and stood near the Seymour House. The first physician was a Dr. Smith, who, soon after his arrival in 1847, died of a fever in Page's log house. The first post- master was George W. Peck, who, for a time, kept the office in Bush and Town- send's store, near the upper town bridge. The first framed house in the township MICHIGAN. 267 wag erected in 1847, by James Turner, a native of New York, whose ancestors were from New London, Connecticut This building is now standing, about 40 rods below the lower town bridge. Southern view of the Penitentiary at Jackson. Showing its appearance as seen from the railroad. JACKSON is a large, thriving, and well-built town, on the line of the Michigan Central Railroad, on and near the head of Grand River, 76 miles W. from Detroit, and 32 S. from Lansing, the capital. The streams here afford excellent water power, and the soil is well adapted to grass or grain. Coal and an abundance of white sand-stone and lime-stone are found in the vicinity. The inhabitants are extensively engaged in the manufactures of flour, leather, iron ware, machinery, etc. It contains the county buildings, a branch of the state university, the state penitentiary, 7 churches, and several banks. Its situation and facilities for travel give it a large trade. Popula- tion about 9,500. "In this, Jackson county, the matter of mining coal has recently become an enterprise of considerable magnitude. There are several 'workings' of coal in the vicinity of Jackson, and companies have been formed for the pur- pose of mining coal. Considerable coal has been mined and sold from these different workings and mines. The principal mine, and one which in all its arrangements and provisions, is equal to any mine in the country, is that of .the Detroit and Jackson Coal and Mining Company. The works of this company are at Woodville station, on the line of the Michigan Central Rail- road, about three and a half miles west of Jackson city. The mine is situated on the north side of the railroad, and about half a mile from the main track. The Coal Company have built a side track from the Central Road to the mouth of their shaft. The shaft from which the coal is taken, is 90 feet deep, and at the bottom passes through a vein of coal about four feet in thickness. This vein has been opened in different directions, for several hundred feet from the shaft, and with a tram road through the different entries the coal is reached and brought from the rooms to the shaft, and then lifted by steam to the surface. This coal has been transported to different points in the state, and is rapidly coming into use for all ordinary purposes, taking the place of many of the Ohio coals, and at a reduced cost. The existence of valuable beds of coal, in Central Michigan, has only been determined within the past few years. Beside the openings in this county, there have been others made at Owesso and Corunna, in Shia- wassee county ; at Flint in Genesee county, and at Lansing. Most of these have been upon veins outcropping at the surface of the ground." 268 MICHIGAN. Adrian, a flourishing town, is situated on a branch of the Raisin River, and on the Michigan Southern Railroad, 80 miles S. E. from Lansing; 37 W. from Monroe, and 70 W. S. W. fi^m Detroit. The Erie and Kalamazoo Railroad, which was opened in 1836, connects the town with Toledo, 32 miles distant; and the Southern Railroad was extended westward to Chicago, in 1852. Adrian was incorporated as a city in 1853. Being in the midst of a fine, fertile, farming region, it has, since the construction of its railroads, increased with rapidity. It has several flouring mills, foundries, machine shops, etc. ; 10 houses of worship, and about 6,000 inhabitants. The village was surveyed and platted in 1828, by Addison J. Comstock, who made a location in 1826, and having erected a shanty, he brought his family here in the spring of 1827, and was soon joined by Noah Norton and others. The first sermon preached in the place, was in 1827, by Rev. John Janes, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, at the house occupied by Mr. Norton. In 1830 a Methodist Church was organized. Other churches were soon after established by the Bap tists and Presbyterians. The first house of worship was erected in 1832, on Church stree, by the Presbyterians: it was afterward sold to the Episcopalians, and ii- now owned hy the Methodists. The first framed school house was erected in th winter of 1831-2. It stood at the corner of Main and Winter-streets, and was used for some time, for the double purpose of school and church. Mr. Comstock built , a saw mill in 1827, and soon after a flouring mill, the only one for many miles around. The seat of justice for Lenawee county was removed from Tecuuiseh to Adrian, in 1836. The city received its name from Mrs. Comstock. James Sword was the first mayor. Mr. S. is a native of the county of Kent, in England; he was a soldier in the Peninsular war, in Spain, and was in several important battles at that period. The Lenawee Republican and Adrian Gazette, R. W. Ingalls, editor and proprietor; the first paper in the county, was issued Oct. 22. 1834. ]ts name has been changed to "The Watch Tower." In 1843, the Messrs. Jermain com- menced the publication of the "Expositor." The first physician was Dr. Onnsby, the second Dr. Behee, who died of the small pox, and the third, Dr. P. J. Spahling, who came to Adrian in 1832. Ann Arbor, the county seat of Washtenaw county, is on Huron River, and on the Michigan Central Railroad. It is 37 miles W. from Detroit, and 51 southerly from Lansing. It is considered one of the most beau- tifully situated places in the state. The site of the city ia elevated, dry, and healthy, and it is regularly laid out. The state university, in this place, was established in 1837, and is now a flourishing and well en- dowed institution. The literary department was opened in 1841 : UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN. ,1 J* i j i. -totn the medical department in 1849, and in 1853 a scientific course was added. The buildings are large, in an elevated, commanding, and pleasant situation. Ann Arbor is surrounded by an excellent farming district, has considerable trade and manufactures of va- rious kinds. Population about 6,000. MONROE is near the head of Lake Erie, on one of the branches of the Michigan Southern Railroad, 41 miles from Detroit and 24 from Toledo, by the railroad connecting those cities. It is on both sides of the River Raisin, 2 miles from its entrance into the lake. It has a fine harbor, and the soil MICHIGAN. 269 WINCHESTER'S HEAD Qc'tnTEEs, On the River Raisin. This house, modernized, is now the Episcopal par- sonage in Monroe. It is of hewn logs: the liiumeys were built of stone from the river bed a few yards distant, and thld Fort. Michilimack inack, now Mackinaw City, and site of the massacre of a British Garrison in 1763. MICHIGAN; SOUTHERN PENINSULA Map of Mackinaw and vicinity. the work of destruction, the Indians, about four hundred in number, entertaining apprehensions that they would be attacked by the English, and the Indians who had joined them, took refuge on the Island of Mackinaw, Wawatam fearing that Henry would be butchered by the savages in their drunken revels, took him out to a cave, where he lay concealed for one night on a heap of human bones. As the fort was not destroyed, it was subsequently reoccupied by British soldiers, and the removal to the island did not take place until about the year 1780." The station on the island was called New Mackinaw, while the other, on the main land, has since been termed Old Mackinaw. The chapel, fort, and college, at the latter place, have long since passed away, but relics of the stone walls and pickets remain to this day. To the Catholic, as the site of their first college in the north-west, and one of their earliest mission stations, this must be ever a spot of great interest. 19 290 MICHIGAN. New Mackinaw formerly received its greatest support from the fur trade, when in the hands of the late John Jacob Astor, being at that time the out- fitting and furnishing place for the Indian trade. This trade became extinct in 1834, and the place since has derived its support mainly from the fisheries. The Isle of Mackinaw, in modern times, has been a prominent point for Protestant missions among the Indians. The first American missionary was the Rev. David Bacon, who settled here in 1802, under the auspices of the Connecticut Missionary Society, the oldest, it is believed, in America. This gentleman was the father of Dr. Leonard Bacon, the eminent New England divine, who was born in Michigan. Prior to settling at Mackinaw, Mr. Bacon attempted to establish a mission upon the Maumee. The Indians in council listened to his arguments for this object, with due courtesy: and then, through one of their chiefs, Little Otter, respectfully declined. The gist of the reply is contained in the following sentence : BROTHER Your religion is very good, but it is only good for white people. It will not do for Indians: they are quite a different sort of follcs. Old Mackinaw, or Mackinack, is the site of a recently laid out town, Mack- inaw City, which, its projectors reason, bids fair to become eventually an im- portant point. Ferris says, in his work on the west: "If one were to point out, on the map of North America, a site fur a great central city in the lake region, it would be in the immediate vicinity of the Straits of Mackinaw. A city so located would have the command of the mineral trade, the fisheries, the furs, and the lumber of the entire north. It might become the metropo- lis of a great commercial empire. It would be the Venice of the Lakes." The climate would seem to forbid such a consummation ; but the tempera- ture of this point, softened by the vast adjacent bodies of water, is much milder than one would suppose from its latitude : north of this latitude is a part of Canada which now contains a million of inhabitants. Two important rail- roads, running through the whole of the lower peninsula of Michigan, are to terminate at this point one passing through Grand Rapids, and the other through Saginaw City. These are building by the aid of extensive land grants from the general government to the state, and are to give southern Mich- igan a constant communication with the mineral region in the upper peninsula, from which she is now ice locked five or six months in the year, and which, in time is destined to support a large and prosperous population. The min- eral region is also to have railroad communications through Wisconsin south, and through Canada east to the Atlantic, extensive land grants having been made by the American and Canadian governments for these objects, com- prising in all many millions of acres. The Beaver Islands are a beautiful cluster of Islands in Lake Michigan. in the vicinity of Mackinaw. Big Beaver, the largest of them, contains about 25,000 acres, and until" within a few years was in the possession of a band of Mormons. When the Mormons were driven from Nauvoo, in 1845, they were divided into three factions the Twelveites, the Rigdonites, and the Strangites. The Twelveites were those who emigrated to Utah, the Rigdonites were the followers of Sidney Ki.o;- don, and were but few in number, and the Strangites made Beaver Island their head- quarters. Their leader, Strung, ayoung lawyer originally of western N. York, claimed to have a revelation from God, appointing him the successor of Joe Smith. "These Mormons held the entire control of the main island, and probably would have con- tinued to do so for some time, but from the many depredations committed by them, the neighboring fishermen and others living and trading on the coasts, became de- termined to root out this band of robbers and pirates, as they believed them to be. MICHIGAN. 291 After organizing a strong force, they made an attack upon these Mormons, and succeeded, though meeting with obstinate resistance, in driving them from the island. The attacking party found concealed a large number of hides and other goods, which were buried to avoid detection. The poor, deluded followers of this monstrous doctrine are now dispersed. Some three or four hundred were sent to Chicago, and from thence spread over the country. Others were sent to ports on Lake Erie. Strang was .wounded by one of the men he had some time previous to this attack robbed and beaten. He managed to escape the island, but died in Wis- consin shortly after, in consequence of his wounds." SAULT DE STE. MARIE, the county seat of Chippewa county, is situated on St. Marys River, or Strait, 400 miles N.W. of Detroit, and about 18 from the entrance of Lake Superior. The vil- lage has an elevated situation, at the Falls of St. Mary, and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. It is a famous fish- ing place, immense quantities of white fish being caught and salted here for the markets of the west. The falls are merely rapids, having a descent of 22 THE SAULT OR FALLS or ST. MART. feet in a mile. The Sault Ste. Marie is The Tiew is looking down the lUpids. one of the prominent historic localities of the north-west. "On the 17th of September, 1641, the Fathers Joguesand Raymbault embarked in their frail birch bark canoes for the Sault Ste. Marie. They floated over the clear waters between the picturesque islands of Lake Huron, and after a voyage of sev- enteen days arrived at the Sault. Here they found a large assembly of Chippewas. After numerous inquiries, they heard of the Nadowessies, the famed Sioux, who dwelt eighteen days' journey further to the west, beyond the Great Lake. Thus did the religious zeal of the BVench bear the cross to the banks of the St. Mary and the confines of Lake Superior, and look wistfully toward the homes of the Sioux in the valley of the Mississippi, five years before the New England Elliott had addressed the tribe of Indians that dwelt within six miles of Boston harbor." In 1668, James Marquette and Claude Dablon founded a mission here. During the whole of the French occupancy of the west, this was a great point for their missions and fur traders. In the late war with Great Britain, the trading station of the British North-west Fur Company, on the Canadian side, was burnt by Maj. Holmes: this was just before the unsuccessful attack on Mackinaw. Fort Brady, at this place, was built in 1823, and was at the time the most northerly fortress m the United States. Before the construction of the great canal, the copper from the Lake Su- perior mines was taken around the falls by railway, the cars being drawn by horses. It has added 1,700 miles of coast to the trade of the lakes, and is of incalculable advantage to the whole of the business of the Lake Superior country. St. Marys Strait, which separates Canada West from the upper peninsula of Michigan, is about 64 miles long, and is navigable for vessels drawing eight feet of water to within about a mile of Lake Superior. At this point the navigation is impeded by the Falls the u sault" (pronounced soo) of the river. Congress offered Michigan 750,000 acres of land to construct a ship canal around these rapids; and the state contracted to give these lands, free of taxation for five years, to Erastus Corning and others, on condition of building the canal by the 19th of May, 1855. The work was completed in style superior to anything on this conti- nent, and the locks are supposed to be the largest in the world. The canal is 12 feet deep, being mostly excavated through solid sandstone rock. It is 100 feet wide at the top of the water, and 115 at the top of its banks ; and the largest steamboats 292 MICHIGAN. and vessels which navigate the Great Lakes can pass through it with the greatest ease. The Upper Peninsula, or Lake Superior country, of Michigan, has, of late years, attracted great attention from its extraordinary mineral wealth, especially in copper and iron. The territory comprised in it. together with that portion of the Lake Superior region belonging to the state of Wiscon- sin, has interests so peculiar to itself, that the project of ceding this whole tract, by the legislatures of Wisconsin and Michigan, to the general government, for the purpose of erecting a new state to be called SUPERIOR, has been seriously agitated and may, in some not distant future, be consum- mated. Lake Superior, the largest body of fresh water on the globe, is an object of in- terest to the traveler. It is 1,500 miles in circumference, and in some parts more than a thousand feet in depth. Among its many islands Isle Royal is the largest, being nearly of the size of the state of Connecticut. The country along the lake is one of the most dreary imaginable. Everywhere its surface is. rocky and broken ; but the high hills, the rugged precipices, and the, rocky shores, with their spare vegetation, are relieved by the transparency and purity of the waters that wash their base ; these are so clear that the pebbles can often be distinctly seen at the depth of thirty feet A boat frequently appears as if suspended in the air, so trans- parent is the liquid upon which it floats. Among the natural curiosities, the Pic- tured Rocks and the Doric Arch, on the south shore near the east end, are promi- nent. The first are a series of lofty bluffs, of a light gray sandstone, 30U feet high, which continue for twelve miles along the shore. They consist of a group of overhanging precipices, towering walls, caverns, waterfalls, and prostrate ruins. The Doric Arch is an isolated mass of sandstone, consisting of four natural pillars, supporting an entablature of the same material, and presenting the appearance of a work of art. The waters of Lake Superior, being remarkably pure, abound with fish, particularly trout, sturgeon and white fish, which are an extensive article of commerce. The siskowit of Lake Superior, supposed to be a cross of the trout and white fish, is considered by epicures to possess the finest flavor of any fish in the world, fresh or salt, and to which the brook trout can bear no comparison. It loses its delicacy of flavor when salted ; its common weight is four pounds, and length 16 inches. So exhilarating is the winter atmosphere here, that it is said that to those who exercise much in the open air, it produces, not unfreqently, an inexpressible elasticity and buoyancy of spirits, that can be compared to nothing else but to the effects of intoxicating drinks. The climate of the Lake Superior region is not, by any means, so severe as its northern latitude would indicate. A writer, familiar with it saya: " No consideration is, perhaps, more important to those seeking a country suita- ble for residence and enterprise, than the character of its climate. Health is the first, and comfort the next great object, in selecting a permanent abode. Tested by these qualities, the Lake Superior region presents prominent inducements. Ita atmosphere is drier, more transparent and bracing than those of the other states on the same parallel. A healthier region does not exist ; here the common diseases of mankind are comparatively unknown. The lightness of the atmosphere has a most invigorating effect upon the spirits, and the breast of the invalid swells with new emotion when he inhales its healthy breezes, as they sweep across the lake. None of the American lakes can compare with Lake Superior in healthfulness of climate during the summer months, and there ia no place so well calculated to re- store the health of an invalid, who has suffered from the depressing miasms of the fever-breeding soil of the south-western states. This opinion is fast gaining ground among medical men, who are now recommending to their patients the healthful climate of this favored lake, instead of sending them to die in enervating south- ern latitudes. The waters of this vast inland sea, covering an area of over 32,000 square miles, exercise a powerful influence in modifying the two extremes of heat and cold. MICHIGAN. 293 The uniformity of temperature thus produced, is highly favorable to animal and vegetable life. The most delicate fruits and plants are raised without injury; while four or five degrees further south, they are destroyed by the early frosts. It is a singular fact, that Lake Superior never freezes in the middle ; and along the shores, the ice seldom extends out more than fifteen to twenty miles. The temper- ature of its waters rarely, if ever change, and are almost always at 40 deg. Fahren- heit the maximum density of water. I rarely omitted taking a morning bath during my exploring cruises along the south shore of the lake, in the months of A ugust and September, and found the temperature of the water near the shore, much warmer than that along the north shore. I also observed a rise and fall in the water or a tidular motion, frequently. In midsummer, the climate is delight- ful beyond comparison, while, at the same time, the air is softly bracing. The winds are variable, and rarely continue for more than two or three days in the same quarter. We have no epidemics, no endemics ; miasmatic affections, with their countless ills, are unknown here ; and the luster of the languid eye is restored, the paleness of the faded cheek disappears when brought into our midst. The purity of the atmosphere makes it peculiarly adapted to all those afflicted with pul- monary complaints, and such a thing as consumption produced by the climate, is wholly unknown. Fever and ague, that terrible scourge of Illinois, Kanzas and Iowa, is rapidly driven away before the pure and refreshing breezes which come down from the north-west; and thousands of invalids from the states below, have already found here a safe retreat from their dreaded enemy. It is also a singular fact, that persons suffering from asthma or phthisis, have been greatly relieved, or, in some instances, permanently cured by a residence in this climate. Having had much experience in camping out on the shores of Lake Superior, sleeping con- stantly on the sandy beach, with and without a tent, a few feet from the water's edge. I would say, give me the open air in summer to the confinement of the best houses ever constructed. It is never very dark in this latitude, and the northern lights are usually visible every clear night. Although myself and companions were exposed to all kinds of weather on our exploring excursions with feet wet every day, and nearly all day, sleeping on the beach, exposed to heavy dew, yet not one of the party ever suffered from exposure ! Dr. Owen, the celebrated United States geologist, says: 'At the Pembina settlement (in latitude 49 deg.), to a popu- lation of five thousand, there was but a single physician, and he told me, that with- out an additional salary allowed him by the Hudson Bay Company, the diseases of the settlement would not afford him a living.' " The Copper districts are Ontonagon, Portage Lake and Kewenaw Point The principal iron district, Marquette. The principal mines in the Ontonagon district are the Minnesota, Central and Rockland ; in the Portage Lake, Pewaubie, Quincy, Franklin and Isle Royale ; and in the Kewenaw Point, Cliff, Copper Falls, North- west and Central. The value of the copper product, in 1860, was about three mil- lions of dollars. The existence of rich deposits of copper in the Lake Superior region, has been known from the earliest times. Father Claude Allouez, the Jesuit missionary, who founded the mission of St. Mary, in 1668, says that the Indians respect this lake as a divinity, and make sacrifices to it, partly, perhaps, on account of its magni- tude, or for its goodness in furnishing them with fishes. He farther adds, that be- neath its waters pieces of copper are found of from ten to twenty pounds, which the savages often preserved as so many divinities. Other published descriptions speak of it. Chsylevoix, who visited the west in 1722, says that the copper here is so pure that one of the monks, who was bred a goldsmith, made from it several sacramental articles. Recent developments show that the mines were probably worked by the same mysterious race who, anterior to the Indians, built the mounds and ancient works of the west. In the latter have been found various copper trinkets bespangled with silver scales, a peculiar feature of the Lake Superior copper, while on the shores of the lake itself, abandoned mines, filled by the accumulation of ages, have recently been re-opened, the existence of which was unknown, even to the tradi- 294' MICHIGAN. tions of the present race of Indians. There have been found remains of cop- per utensils, in the form of knives and chisels; of stone hammers to the amount of cart loads, some of which are of immense size and weight; of wooden bowls for boiling water from the mines, and numerous levers of wood, used in raising mass copper to the surface. The Copper and Iron Region on Lake Superior. The first Englishman who ever visited the copper region was Alex. Henry, the trader. In August, 1765, he was shown by the Indians a mass of pure copper, on Ontonagon River, ten miles from its mouth, that weighed 3,800 pounds; it is now in Washington City, and forms part of the Washington monument. He cut off a piece of 100 Ibs. weight with an axe. The first mining company on Lake Superior was organized by this enterprising explorer. In 1770, he, with two others, having interested the Duke of Gloucester and other English noblemen, built a barge at Point aux Pius, and laid the keel of a sloop of forty tuns. They were in search of gold and silver, and expected to make their fortunes. The enterprise failed, and the American Revolution occurring, for a time caused the mineral resources of the country to be forgotten. Dr. Franklin, commissioner for negotiating the peace between England and her lost colonies, purposely drew the boundary line through Lake Superior, so as to throw this rich mineral region, of the existence of which he was then aware, with- in the possession of the United States. He afterward stated that future genera- tions would pronounce this the greatest service he had ever given to his country. The celebrated Connecticut-born traveler, Capt. Jonathan Carver, visited these regions in 1769, and in his travels dwells upon their mineral wealth. The first definite information in regard to the metallic resources of Lake Superior, was pub- lished in 1841, by Dr. Douglas Houghton, geologist to the state of Michigan. In 1843, the Indian title to the country was extinguished by a treaty with the Chip- Eewas, and settlers came in, among them several Wisconsin miners, who selected irge tracts of land,* including many of those now occupied by the best mines in the country. In the summer of 1844, the first mining operations were commenced *By an act of congress, in 1850, the mineral lands of Lake Superior were thrown into mar- ket, with the right of pre-emption, as to occupants of other public lands ; and to occupants and lessees, the privilege of purchasing one full section at the minimum price of $2 50 per acre. MICHIGAN. 295 I on Eagle River, by the Lake Superior Copper Company. They sold out after two or three years' labor, and at the very moment when they were upon a vein which proved rich in copper, now known as the Cliff Mine. The first mining operations brought to light many masses of native copper which contained silver. This caused great excitement in the eastern cities, and, with the attendant exaggerations, brought on " the copper fever," so that the next year, 1845, the shores of Keweenaw Point were whitened with the tents of speculators. The next year the fever reached its hight, and speculations in worthless stocks con- tinued until 1847, when the bubble had burst. Many were ruined, and the coun- try almost deserted, and of the many companies formed few only had actually en- gaged in mining. They were, mostly, merely stock gambling schemes. Now, about one third of all the copper produced on the globe comes from this region. Such is its surprising richness, that the day may not be very distant when its an- nual product will exceed the present product from all the other mines worked by man combined. We continue this subject from a valuable article, published in 1860, in the Detroit Tribune, on the copper and iron interest of Michigan. The notes are entirely from other sources : This great interest of Michigan was first brought into public notice by the enor- mous speculations and the mad fever of 1845. The large spur of country which pro- jects far.out into the lake, having its base resting on a line drawn across from L'Anse Bay to Ontonagon, and the Porcupine Mountains for its spine, became the El Dorado of all copperdom of that day. In this year the first active operations were commenced at the Cliff Mine, just back of Eagle River harbor. Three years later, in 1848, work was undertaken at the Minesota, some fifteen miles back from the lake at Ontonagon. The history of the copper mines on Lake Superior shows that even the best mines disappointed the owners in the beginning. We give the facts relative to the three mines at present in the Lake Superior region to illustrate this. The Cliff Mine was discovered in 1845, and worked three years without much sign of success; it changed hands at the very moment when the vein was opened which proved after- ward to be so exceedingly rich in copper and silver, producing now on an average 1,500 tuns of stamp, barrel, and mass copper per annum. The Minesota Mine was discovered in 1848, and for the first three years gave no very encouraging results. The first large mass of native copper of about seven tuns was found in a pit made by an ancient race. After that discovery muoh mo- ney was spent before any further indications of copper were found. This mine yields now about 2,000 tuns of copper per annum, and declared for the year 1858 a net dividend of $300,000. The dividends paid since 1852 amount to upward of $1,500,000 on a paid up capital of $66,000.* *The cost to the stockholders of the Cliff Mine was $18 50 per share on 6,000 shares, and the total cash paid in was $110,905. The highest selling price per share has been $245. The years 1845, 1846 and 1847 not a dollar of returns came from the enterprise. In 1848 the mine was so far opened as to be worked with profit. Since then the dividends in round numbers have been, in 1849, $60,000 ; 1850, $84,000 : 1851, $60,000 : 1852, $60,000 ; 1853, $90,000; 1854, $108,000; 1855, $78,000 ; 1856, $180,000 ; 1857, $180,000 ; and 1858, $209,000. Up to Jan. 1, 1859, the dividends paid stockholders, added to the cash, copper and copper ore on hand, amounted to over $3,700,000. The cost to the stockholders of the Minesota Mine was $3 per share on 20,000 shares, and the total cash paid in, as above stated, $66,000. The highest selling price per share has been $110. In 1848, $14,000 was expended, and $1,700 worth of copper produced ; in 1849, expenditures, $28,000, copper produced, $14,000 ; 1850, expenditures, $58,000, copper pro- duced, $29,000 ; in 1851, expenditures, $88,000, copper produced, $90,000. In 1852, the fifth year from the beginning, the mine had been so far opened that ore in greater quantities could be taken out, and the first dividend was declared ; it was $30,000 ; in 1853, dividend, $60,000; 1854, $90,000; 1855, 200,000; and in 1856, $300,000; since then the dividends have been about $200,000 per annum. In all the stockholders have received more than a million of money for their original investment of $66,000, a fair reward for their five years waiting on a first dividend. These statistics, astonishing as they may seem, are equaled in mining experience in other 296 MICHIGAN. The same has been experienced at the Pewabic Mine. That mine commenced operations in the year 1855, with an expenditure of $26,357, which produced $1,080 worth of copper; the second year it expended $40,820, and produced $31,- 492 of copper; in 1857, $54,484 of expenses produced $44,058 worth of copper; in countries. That correct information should be disseminated upon this subject, is due to the assistance required for an early development of the immense natural mineral wealth that our country possesses. Hence we lengthen this note by statistics of successful British mines, as given by a writer familiar with the subject : "He has struck a mine!" is one of those sentences in every one's mouth to indicate extra- ordinary good fortune. Phrases like these, passing into popular every day use, must orig- inate in some great truth impressed upon the public mind. This expression is doubtless of foreign origin, for the Americans know so little of mining, that all enterprises of this kind are by them reproachfully termed speculative. Yet, when conducted on correct business principles, and with knowledge, few investments are more certain than those made in this useful branch of industry. " This statement can now well be believed which has lately been made by the London Min- ing Journal, that 'taking all the investments made in that country (England) in mining enter- prises (other than coal and iron) good, bad and indifferent, at home and abroad, the returns from the good mines have paid a larger interest upon the entire outlay than is realized in any other species of investment*.' " The exact figures are, for mining, an annual interest of 13 1-2 per cent. Other invest- ments 4 8-10 per cent. Amount of dividends paid upon investments in mining, 111 per cent. , This is doubtless owing to the fact that in England mining is treated as a regular busi- ness, and is never undertaken by those who are not willing to devote the same attention, , time, and money to it, that are considered necessary to the success of any other business." We have before us a list of twenty- three English Mining Companies, showing, first, the number of shares of each ; second, the cash cost per share ; third, the present selling price per share; and fourth, the amount paid in dividends per share. The mines worked are principally copper and lead. From this list we gather the following facts, which we express in round numbers : Those twenty-three companies invested in their enterprises one million and forty thousand dollars. The present value of their property is eight millions of dollars. The shareholders Uave re- ceived in dividends fourteen millions of dollars. The average cost per share was sixty-five dollars. The present selling price per share is five hundred and two dollars ; and the amount of dividends received per share, eight hundred and seventy-three dollars. What other branch of industry will average such returns as these? And is it not owing to the ignorance of the business men of the United States as to the actual facts of mining, when legitimately pursued, that has, in a measure, prevented our industry from being partly directed in that channel ? From the list we group some of the most successful of the mines, arranging the statistics so that they can be seen at a glance. They dwarf by comparison all ordinary investments by the immensity of their returns. Jamaica, Lead Mine. No. of shares 76. Amount paid per share $19. Present price per share, $250. Total amount paid in, $1,444. Present value, $190,000. Increase value on the original investment, thirteen times. Wheat Basset, Copper. No. of shares, 512. Amount paid per share, $25 25. Present price per share, $2,050. Total amount paid in, $12,800. Present value, $1,049,600. In- crease in value, eighty times. South Caradon, Copper. No, of shares, 256. Cost per share, $12 30. Present price per share, $1,500. Total amount paid in, $3,200. Present value, $384,000. Increase in value, one hundred and twenty-two times. Wheal BuUer, Copper. No. of shares, 256. Amount paid per share, $25. Present price per share, $3,095. Total cash capital, $6,500. Present cash value, $792,000. Increase value, one hundred and twenty-four times. Devon Great Consols, Copper. No. of shares, 1,024. Amount paid per share, $5. Pres- ent price per share, $2,050. Total cash capital, $5,120. Present cash value, $2,099,200. Increase value per share more than four hundred times. Taking the above five mines together, and the sum of the original cash capital paid in by the stockholders was, in round numbers, seventy-nine thousand dollars, and the present combined value of tho investments, reckoning them at the present selling price of the shares, is over four and a half millions of dollars. Since the foregoing was written, later statistics than these have come to hand from Gryll's Annual Mining Sheet, containing statistics of the copper mines of Cornwall, for the year ending June 30, 1859. It appears from these that during the past year the last mentioned mine the 'Devon Great Consols,' turned out 23,748 gross tuns of copper. On the 1st of June last, the lucky MICHIGAN 297 1858, the amount expended was $109,152, and the receipts for copper $76,538 ; the total expense ainoute to $235,816, and the total receipts for copper to $153 ; 168. Outline view of the Minesota Mine. The view shows only a small part of tha surface works. The aggregate extent of openings under ground throughout the mine, by shafts and levels, is 31,8!)3 foet, or over six miles in extent. The deepest shaft is 712 feet. The entire working force at the mine is 718, and the total population supported tnere by it 1,210. It is scarcely ten years that mining has been properly commenced in that re- mote region. At that time it was difficult, on account of the rapids of St. Marys River, to approach it by water with large craft. Being more than a thousand miles distant from the ce^er of the Union, destitute of all the requirements for the de- velopment of mines, every tool, every part of machinery, every mouthful of pro- vision had to be hauled over the rapids, boated along the shores for hundreds of miles to the copper region, and there often carried on the back of man and beast to the place where copper was believed to exist. Every stroke of the pick cost tenfold more than in populated districts; every disaster delayed the operations for weeks and months. The opening of the Sault Canal has changed all this and added a wonderful im- petus to the business, the mining interests, and the development of the Lake Su- perior country. Nearly one hundred different vessels, steam and sail, have been shareholders received as their annual dividend $220 per share. That is mine stock worth having; it cost only $5 per share, fifteen years ago, when the mine was first opened. It is true that these are the successful mines. Mines to be placed in this class must be either ordinary mines managed with great skill, or exceedingly rich mines, which possess naturally such treasures, that they eventually yield immense return in spite of all blunders in management." To the above extract we append the remarks that the prominent difficulties in this coun- try, in the way of successful mining, consist in the total ignorance of those who generally engage in the business, most American mining companies proving but mere phantoms on which to build airy castles, and most American mines but ugly holes in which to bury money, which, like Kidd's treasure is never found again. None but those used fr^m youth to tha business of mining, and for the very metals mined for, are fit to conduct the business. Noth- ing but the mechanical education to open a mine, and the skill to work the machinery, united with a knowledge of geology and chemistry, and more especially that intricate and delicate branch, metallurgy, joined to extraordinary executive skill in the business manage- ment, will conduct an enterprise of the kind to any but a disastrous issue* Aside from this, such has been the selfishness, ignorance and neglect of those persons in this country who have had the control of these enterprises, that let any mine promise ever BO fairly, an investment in its stock is now regarded as silly as a purchase in a lottery. It is said that six millions of dollars were lost during " the copper fever" on Lake Su- perior, much of it indirectly stolen by smooth talking gentlemen, regarded as reputable among their neighbors. 98 MICHIGAN. engaged the past season in its trade, and the number of these is destined largely to increase year by year, an indication of the growth of business and the opening up of the country. For the growth in the copper interest we have only to refer to the shipments from that region year by year. These, in gross, are as follows: in 1853. 2,535 tuns; 1854,3,500; 1855,4,544; 1856, 5,357; 1857, 6,094; 1858, 6,025: 1859, 6,245; and in 1860, estimated, 9,000. The same facts of development would hold generally true, with regard to the other industrial interests of that vast country. It remains yet almost wholly " a waste, howling wilderness." At Marquette, Portage Lake, Copper Harbor, Eagle River, Eagle Harbor, and Ontonagon, and the mines adjacent, are the only places where the primeval forests had given place to the enterprise of man, and these, in comparison with the whole extent of terri- tory embraced in this region, are but mere insignificant patches. What this coun- try may become years hence, it would defy all speculations now to predict, but there seems no reason to doubt that it will exceed the most sanguine expecta- tions. The copper region is divided into three districts, viz : the Ontonagon, the Ke- weenaw Point, and the Portage Lake. Each district has some peculiarities of product, the first developing more masses, while the latter are more prolific in vein-rock, the copper being scattered throughout the rock. There have been since 1845 no less than 116 copper mining companies organized under the general law of Michigan. The amount of capital invested and now in use, or which has been paid out in explorations and improvements, and lost, is es- timated by good judges at $6,000,000. The nominal amount of capital stock in- vested in all the companies which have charters would reach an indefinite number of millions. As an offset to this, it may be stated that the Cliff and Minnesota mines have returned over $2,000,000 in dividends from the beginning of their ope- rations, and the value of these two mines will more than cover the whole amount spent in mining, and for all the extravagant undertakings which have been entered upon and abandoned. While success has been the exception and failure the rule in copper speculations, yet it must be admitted that these exceptions are remarka- bly tempting ones. Doubtless there is immense wealth still to be developed in these enterprises, and this element of wealth in the Lake Superior region is yet to assume a magnitude now unthought of. The copper is smelted mainly in Detroit, Cleveland and Boston, the works in Detroit being the largest There is one establishment at Pittsburg which does most of the smelting for the Cliff Mine; one at Bergen, N. Y., and one at New Haven, Ct. There are two at Baltimore, but they are engaged on South American mineral. The Bruce Mines, on the Canada side of Lake Huron, have recently put smelting works in operation on their location. Prior. to this the mineral was bar- reled up and shipped to London, being taken over as ballast in packet ships at low rates. The amount of copper smelted in Detroit we can only judge by the amount landed here, but this will afford a pretty accurate estimate. The number of tuns landed here, in 1859, was 3,088. The copper yield of Lake Superior will produce between 60 and 70 per cent, of ingot copper, which is remarkably pure. Th^ net product of the mines for 1859 is worth in the markets of the world nearly or quite $2,000,000. This large total shows the capabilities of this region and affords us some basis of calculation as to the value and probable extent of its future devel- opments. Beside this amount, already noticed, as landed at Detroit, there were 1,268 tuns brought there from the Bruce Mines, and sent to London. There are indications that Michigan is slowly but surely taking the rank to which she is entitled, in the manufacture as well as production of IRON. The first shipment of pig iron of any consequence was made by the Pioneer Company in the fall of 1858. The Lake Superior iron has been proclaimed the best in the world, a proposition that none can successfully refute. Its qualities are becoming known in quarters where it would naturally be expected its superiority would be admitted reluctantly, if at all. It is now sent to New York and Ohio, and even to Pennsylvania an agency for its sale having been established in Pittsburg. For gearing, shafting, cranks, flanges, and, we ought by all means to add, car wheels, no other should be used, provided it can be obtained. MICHIGAN. 299 A large amount of capital is invested in the iron interest in Michigan over two millions of dollars. Murquette is the only point on Lake Superior where the iron ore deposits have been worked. There are deposits of iron in the mountains back of L'Anse, but this wonderful region leaves nothing more to be desired for the present. At a distance of eighteen miloa I from the lake, are to be found iron mountains, named the Sharon, Burt, Lake Superior, Cleveland, Collins, and Barlow, while eight miles further back lie the Ely and St. Glair mountains. Three of these mountains are at present worked, tho Sharon, the Cleaveland, and the Lake Superior, and contain enough ore to supply the world for generations to come. The mountains further back embrace tracts of hundreds of acres rising to a hight of from four to six hundred feet, which there is every reason to believe, from the explorations made, are solid iron ore. The extent of the contents of these mountains is perfectly fabulous, in fact, so enormous as almost to baffle computation. The ore, too, is remarkably rich, yield- ing about seventy per cent, of pure metal. There are now in operation at Marquette three iron mining companies and two blast furnaces for making charcoal pig iron, the Pioneer and Meigs. The Pioneer has two stacks and a capacity of twenty tuns pig iron per day; the Meigs one stack, capable of turning out about eleven tuns. The Northern Iron Com- ny is building a large bituminous coal furnace at the mouth of the Chocolate River, three les south of Marquette, which will be in operation early in the summer. Each of the mining companies, the Jackson, Cleveland and Lake Superior, have docks at the harbor for shipment, extending out into the spacious and beautiful bay which lies in front of Marquette, to a sufficient length to enable vessels of the largest dimensions to lie by their side and be loaded directly from the cars, which are run over the vessels and " dumped " into shutes, which are made to empty directly into the holds. The process of loading is therefore very expeditious and easy. The amount of shipments of ore for 1859, from Marquette to the ports below, reaches 75,000 gross tuns in round numbers, and the shipments of pig iron, 6,000 gross tuns more. To this must be added the amount at Marquette when navigation closed, the amount at the mines ready to be brought down, and the amount used on the spot. This will give a total product of the iron mines of Michigan, for the past year, of between ninety and one hundred thousand tuns. These mining companies simply mine and ship the ore and sell it. Their profit ranges between seventy-five cents and one dollar per tun. The quality of the iron of Lake Superior is conceded by all to be the best in the world, as the analysis of Prof. Johnston, which we reproduce, shows. The table shows the rela- tive strength per square inch in pounds: Salisbury, Ct., iron, 58,009; Swedish (best), 58,- 184; English cable, 59,105; Centre county, Pa., 59,400; Essex county, N. Y., 59,962; Lancaster county, Pa., 58,661 ; Russia (best), 76,069; Common English and American, 30,000; Lake Superior, 89,562. The manufacture of pig iron at Marquette will probably be carried on even more exten- sively, as the attention of capitalists is directed to it. The business may be extended in- definitely, as the material is without limit, and the demand, thus far, leaving nothing on hand. These facts exhibit the untold wealth of Michigan in iron alone, and point with certain- ty to an extent of business that will add millions to our invested capital, dot our state with iron manufactories of all kinds, and furnish regular employment to tens of thousands of our citizens, while our raw material and our wares shall be found in all the principal mar- kets of the world. In the mining regions are the following towns, the largest of which has 1,200 souls. Ontonagon is at the mouth of Ontonagon River, and is the largest mining depot. It is in the vicinity of the Minnesota Mine, and will in time have a railroad connection with Milwaukie and Chicago, and eventually with Cincinnati, heavy grants of land having been made through Michigan to aid in the enterprise : also with the Canadian railroads. Eagle River is in the vicinity of the Cliff and several other mines. Eagle Harbor, Copper Harbor, and Fort Wilkins, the latter a delightful summer resort, all are in the same neighborhood. Marquette is the iron city of Lake Superior: a railroad is constructing and partly finished, to connect it with Little Noquet Bay, 117 miles distant, on Lake Michigan. We conclude this notice of this district by a description of LIFE AT THE MINES, as given by a visitor to the Cliff. The situation of the Cliff Mine is one of great picturesqueness. Tho valley which is about five hundred feet above the level of the lake, is surrounded on three sides by a rango 300 MICHIGAN". of mountains, which sweeps round in a crescent form, trending in a south-westerly direc- tion, and forming the west boundary of the Eagle River. Toward the valley these moun- tains present a front of massive grandeur, being mostly perpeudicular, and having an ele- vation of from three to four hundred feet above the valley. i The population of the mine location is set down at about twelve hundred persons. E;ich family has a separate cottage, and is required to take four boarders. This system of di- viding the population into small families has been found to work better for the mine, and to be more satisfactory to the miners themselves, than the congregation in large boarding houses. The population consists principally of Cornishmen, the miners being exclusively of that class. The mine " captains" are also old and experienced " captains " from the copper mines of Cornwall, and are a jolly, good tempered set of men. The miners them- selves appear to be good humored, sociable, and intelligent in everything relating to their business The ordinary labor " at grass" is mostly dene by Dutch, Irish, and Canadian French. Tho breaking of the rock sent up from below is principally done by the Dutch, the Irish are the teamsters, and the French are employed in a variety of ways on the surface. From the intense national antipathy between the Cornish and the Irish, the number of the latter employed is very small. From the fact of the Cliff being so old and extensive a min^ most of the newly arrived Cornish make directly for it, thus giving the managers oppo^ tunity to select the best. The Cornish miners at this place are therefore good specimens of their class. Their dialect varies greatly, according to the section of Cornwall from which they come, some speaking with but a slight variation from the usual manner, and others having a vocabulary and intonation of voice that render their conversation bewil- dering to the uninitiated. The location comprises three churches, Episcopal, Wesleyan Methodist and Catholic. In addition to the churches there is a well built school house, store, provision warehouse, and other buildings. No tavern or beer shop stands within the location, the sale of alco- holic or spiritous liquors being forbidden within the limits. One or two whisky and beer shops stand beyond the location. Drunkenness is rigidly interdicted anywhere on the company's property. All persons living on the location are treated as belonging to the general family, and are subjected to a code of rules. The miners have a monthly contri- bution reserved from their wages for the support of the doctor, who attends the miners and their families without additional charge. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, ETC. Pontiac, a chief of the Ottawa tribe, was one of the most remarkable and dis- tinguished men of his race who have figured in history. Maj. Rogers, who knew him and the tribes over whom he held sway, thus speaks of them in 1765 : "The Indians on the lakes are generally at peace with each other. They are formed into a sort of empire, and the emperor is selected from the eldest tribe, which i? the Ottawas, some of whom inhabit near our fort at Detroit, but are mostly further westward toward the Mississippi. Ponteack is their present king or em- peror, who certainly has the largest empire and greatest authority of any Indian chief that has appeared on the continent since our acquaintance with it He puts on an air of majesty and princely grandeur, and is greatly honored and revered by his subjects." "About eight miles above Detroit, at the head of the Detroit River, is Pechee Island, a green spot, set amid the clearest waters, surrounded by dense forests, at all times cool from the breezes of the northern lakes, and removed from the rest of the world. Pontiac made this island his summer residence, and in winter lodged at the Ottawa village opposite, on the Canadian bank, and which has been described as having been situated above the town of Detroit. Poetry may imagine him here, musing upon the inroads of the English and the declining fortunes of his race, and looking upon the gorgeous domain which was spread around him, and which now constitutes the most beautiful part of Michigan as a territory which was soon to pass from his hands. To this land he held a right of pre-emption, the time whereof the memory of man ran not to the contrary ; and superadded to this, a patent from the Great Spirit, which established his title on t solid ground." Lan- maris Michigan. Pontiac displayed more system in his undertakings than any other of his race of whom we have knowledge. In his war of 1763, which is justly; .tailed u Pon- MICHIGAN. 301 tiac's War" he appointed a commissary, issued bills of credit, all of which he afterward carefully redeemed. He made his bills or notes of bark, on which was a drawing or figure of what he wanted for it. The shape of an otter, the insignia or arms of his nation was drawn under the required article. After the conquest of Canada by the English, Pontiac sued for peace, which was granted. When the American Revolution commenced, the Americans sent messages to him to meet them in council. He was inclined to do so, but was prevented, from time to time, by Gov. Hamilton, of Detroit. He now appeared to have become the friend of the English, and to reward his attachment, the British government granted him a lib- eral pension. It is related that hia fidelity being suspected, a spy was sent to ob- serve his conduct As he was acting professedly as a British agent among the Indians in Illinois, the spy discovered that Pontiac, in his speech, was betraying the British interests, and thereupon plunged a knife into his heart James Marquette, the celebrated explorer of the Mississippi, and one of the most zealous of that extraordinary class of men, the Jesuit missionaries, was born in 1637, of a most ancient and honorable family of the city of Laon, France, and en- tered, at the early age of 17, the Society of Jesus; after studying and teaching for many years, he was invested with the priesthood, upon which he at once sought a mission in some land that knew not God, that he might labor there to his latest breath, and die unaided and alone. His desire was gratified. He founded the missions of St. Marys, St Ignace and Mackinaw. For nine years he labored among the In- dians, and was enabled to preach to them in ten different languages. " In his va- rious excursions," says Bancroft, "he was exposed to the inclemencies of nature and the savage. He took his life in his hands, and bade them defiance ; waded through water and through snows, without the comfort of a fire ; subsisted on pounded maize; was freqently without any other food than the unwholesome moss gathered from the rocks ; traveled far and wide, but never without peril. Still, said he, life in the wilderness had its charms his heart swelled with rapture, as he moved over the waters, transparent as the most limpid fountain." In May, 1685, as he was returning up Lake Michigan to his little flock at Point Ignace, from one of his missions of love to the Indians of the Illinois, he felt that his final hour was approaching. Leaving his men with the canoe, he landed at the mouth of a stream running from the peninsula, and went a little apart to pray, As much time passed and he did not return, they called to mind that he said some- thing of his death being at hand, and on anxiously going to seek him found him dead where he had been praying. They dug a grave, and there buried the holy man in the sand. " The Indians of Mackinaw and vicinity, and also those of Kaskaskia, were in great sorrow when the tidings of Marquette's death reached them. Not long after this melancholy event, a large company of Ojibwas, Ottawas, and Hurons, who had been out on a hunting expedition, landed their canoes at the mouth of Marquette River, with the intention of removing his remains to Mackinaw. They had heard of his desire to have his body interred in the consecrated ground of St Ignatius, and they had resolved that the dying wish of the missionary should be fulfilled. As they stood around in silence and gazed upon the cross that marked the place of his burial, the hearts of the stern warriors were moved. The bones of the mis- sionary were dug up and placed in a neat box of bark made for the occasion, and the numerous canoes which formed a large fleet started from the mouth of the river, with nothing but the sighs of the Indians and the dip of the paddles to break the silence of the scene. As they advanced toward Mackinaw, the funeral cortege was met by a large number of canoes bearing Ottawas, Hurons, and Iroquois, and still others shot out ever and anon to join the fleet. When they arrived in sight of the Point, and beheld the cross of St Ignatius as if painted against the northern sky, the missionaries in charge came out to the beach clad in vestments adapted to the occasion. How was the scene hightened when the priests commenced, as the canoe bearing the remains of Marquette neared the shore, to chant the requiem for the dead. Ihe whole population was out, en- tirely covering the beach, and as the procession marched up to the chapel, with cross and prayer, and tapers burning, and laid the bark box beneath a pall made in the form of a coffin, the sons and daughters of the forest wept. After the funo 302 MICHIGAN. ral service was ended, the coffin was placed in a vault in the middle of the church, where, the Catholic historian says, 'Marquette reposes as the guardian angel of the Ottawa missions.' 1 He was the first and last white man who ever had such an assembly of the wild sons of the forest to attend him to his grave. ' So many stirring events succeeded each other after this period first, the Avar between the English Colonists and the French; then the Colonists with the Indi- ans, the Revolutionary war, the Indian wars, and finally the war of 1812, with the death of all those who witnessed his burial, including the Fathers who officiated at the time, whose papers were lost, together with the total destruction and evacu- ation of this mission station for many years, naturally obliterated all recollections of the transaction, which accounts for the total ignorance of the present inhabit- ants of Point St Ignatius respecting it The locality of his grave is lost, but only until the archangel's trump, at the last, shall summon him from his narrow grave, with those plumed and painted warriors who now lie around him.' " Gen. Wm. Hull was born in Derby, Conn., in 1753, and was educated at Yale College. Entering the army of the Revolution, he performed most valuable ser- vices and behaved bravely on many a battle field. Washington regarded him as one of his most useful officers. In 1805, when Michigan was erected into a terri- tory, he was appointed by congress its governor. On the outbreak of the war, he was commissioned brigadier general. " In the comparatively weak fort at Detroit," says Lossing, "he was invested by a strong force of British and Indians; and, to save his command from almost certain destruction, he surrendered the fort, hia army of two thousand men, and the territory, to the enemy. For this he was tried for treason and cowardice, and being unable to produce certain official testimony which subsequently vindicated his character, he was found guilty of the latter, and sentenced to be shot. The president of the United States, ' in consideration of his age and revolutionary services,' pardoned him, but a cloud was upon his fame and honor. He published a vindicatory memoir, in 1824, which changed public opin- ion in his favor. Yet he did not live long to enjoy the effects of that change. He died at Newton, on the 29th of November, 1825, at the age of seventy-two years. A Memoir of General Hull, by his daughter and grandson, was published in 1848. It fully vindicates the character of the injured patriot, by documentary evi- dence." Stevens Thompson Mason, the first governor of the state of Michigan, was the only son of Gen. John Mason, of Kentucky, but was born in Virginia in 1812. At the early age of 19, he was appointed secretary of the territory of Michigan, and at the age of 22 was acting governor. In 1 836. at 24 years of age, he was chosen governor of the new state. He was again elected in 1838, and died in 1843, when only 31 years of age. Gen. Alexander Macomb, was the son of an English gentleman, born in the British garrison at Detroit, on the 3d of April, 1782, just at the close of the Revo- lution. His father subsequently settled at New York He entered the army an a cornet at an early age, and continued in the service until his death, at Washing ton in 1841, being at the time general-in-chief. He was succeeded by Winfield Scott He was an excellent officer, and for his services at the battle of Plattsburg, congress presented him with a vote of thanks and a gold medal. Dr. Douglas Houghlon was born in Troy, in 1809, and educated for the medical profession. In 1831, he was appointed surgeon and botanist to the expedition sent out by government to explore the sources of the Mississippi, and made an able re- port upon the botany of the region through which he passed. Settling in Detroit, to practice medicine, he was appointed, in 1837, state geologist. In 1842, he was elected mayor of the city of Detroit, and from its foundation was professor in the State University. His life was one of incessant labor, and he accomplished more than any man living in developing the resources of Michigan, especially its min- eral wealth. His reports upon the mineral region of Lake Superior, first aroused the minds of this generation to the vast riches that lie buried beneath its soil. He was drowned in October, 1845, on Lake Superior. While coming down from a portage to Copper Harbor, with his four Indian voyageurs, the boat was swamped MICHIGAN. 303 in a storm, near the mouth of Eagle River. Two of the men were saved by being thrown by the waves upon the rocks ten feet above the usual level of the waters. He perished, and so greatly was his loss felt to be a public calamity, that he is often alluded to as "the lamented Houghton" even to this day. Gov. Leivis Cass was born in Exeter, New Hampshire, Oct. 9, 1782. " Having re- ceived a limited education at his native place, at the early age of seventeen, he crossed the Alleghany Mountains on foot, to seek a home in the "great west," then an almost unexplored wilderness. Settled at Marietta, Ohio, he studied law, and was successful. Elected at twenty-five to the legislature of Ohio, he originated the bill which arrested the proceedings of Aaron Burr, and, as stated by Mr. Jefferson, was the first blow given to what is known as Burr's conspiracy. In 1807, he was appointed, by Mr. Jefferson, marshal of the state, and held the office till the latter part of 1811, when he volunteered to repel Indian aggressions on the frontier. He was elected colonel of the 3d regiment of Ohio volunteers, and entered the military service of the United States, at the commencement of the war of 1812. Having by a difficult march reached Detroit, he urged the immediate invasion of Canada, and was the author of the proclamation of that event. He was the first to land in arms on the enemy's shore, and, with a small detachment of troops, fought and won the first battle, that of the Tarontoe. At the subsequent capitulation of De- troit, he was absent, on important service, and regretted that his command and himself had been included in that capitulation. Liberated on parol, he repaired to the seat of government to report the causes of the disaster, and the failure of the campaign. He was immediately appointed a colonel in the regular army, and, soon after, promoted to the rank of brigadier-general, having, in the mean time, been elected major-general of the Ohio volunteers. On being exchanged and re- leased from parol, he again repaired to the frontier, and joined the army for the recovery of Michigan. Being at that time without a command, he served and dis- tinguished himself, as a volunteer aid-de-camp to Gen. Harrison, at the battle of the Thames. He was appointed by President Madison, in October, 1813, governor of Michigan. His position combined, with the ordinary duties of chief magistrate of a civilized community, the immediate management and control, as superintend- ent, of the relations with the numerous and powerful Indian tribes in that region of country. He conducted with success the affairs of the territory under embar- rassing circumstances. Under his sway peace was preserved between the whites and the treacherous and disaffected Indians, law and order established, and the territory rapidly advanced in population, resources, and prosperity. He held this position till July, 1831, when he was, by President Jackson, made secretary of war. In the latter part of 1836, President Jackson appointed him minister to France, where he remained until 1842, when he requested his recall, and returned to this country. In January, 1845, he was elected, by the legislature of Michigan, to the senate of the United States; which place he resigned on his nomination, in May, 1848, as a candidate for the presidency, by the political party to which he belongs. After the election of his opponent (General Taylor) to that office, the legislature of his state, in 1849, re-elected him to the senate for the unexpired por- tion of his original term of six years. When Mr. Buchanan became president, he invited Gen. Cass to the head of the department of state, in which position he has acquitted himself with characteristic ability. He has devoted some attention to literary pursuits, and his writings, speeches, and state papers would make several volumes. Lanman's Dictionary of U. S. Congrcst. W ISC NSIN. WISCONSIN derives its name from its principal river, which the Chippewas, resided on its head-waters, called the Wees-kon-san, which signifies "gathering of the waters." The French voyageurs called it Ouisconsin, the first syllable of which is nearer the Indian sound than Wis. The first white men on the soil of Wis- consin were two French fur traders, who passed the winter of 1659 among the Indians of Lake Superior. Ar- riving at Quebec the next summer, with sixty canoes, loaded with furs, and manned with 300 Algonquins, they aroused a spirit of religious zeal among the Jesuits to bear the cross in the cabins of those distant tribes. In 1661, Father Mesnard went on a mission to the south side of Lake Superior, where he resided, ABMS or WISCONSIN. more than eight months, surrounded. MoTTo-Forwnrd. b J savages and a few French voy- ageurs: he finally perished, in some unknown way, in the rocky pine clad wilderness. Undismayed by his sad fate a successor was appointed, Father Claude Allouez, who arrived at the Sault Ste. Marie on the 1st of September, 1668. "He employed the whole month of September in coasting the southern portion of Lake Superior, where he met many Christians baptized by Father Mesnard. ' I had the pleasure,' says this venerable man, 'of assuring, by baptism, the eternal sal- vation of many a dying infant.' His success with the adults seems to have been less. At Chagouamigon, or St. Michael, on the south-western side of Lake Superior, there were gathered eight hundred warriors of different nations; a chapel was built; among them were several tribes who under- stood the Algonquin language. So fine an occasion for exercising his zeal could not be overlooked. 'I spoke in the Algonquin language,' says he ? 'for a long time, on the subject of the Christian religion, in an earnest and powerful manner, but in language suited to the capacity of my audience. I> 20 305 306 WISCONSIN. was greatly applauded, but this was the only fruit of my labors.' Among the number assembled, were three hundred Pottawatomies, two hundred Sauks, eighty Illinoians. In the year 1668, peace having been established between the French and the Six Nations, many discoveries were made, and many new missions established. In this year Fathers Dablon and Marquette went to the mission of Sault Ste. Marie. In the same year, Father Nicholas, who was on the mission with Allouez, conducted a deputation of 'Nez Perces,' an Al- gonquin tribe, to Quebec, and Father Allouez went to the mission at Green Bay. Sault Ste. Marie was made the center of their missionary labors among the Algonquin tribes." Father Marquette had been residing at the Straits of Mackinaw and the Sault Ste. Marie about five years, when, accompanied by M. Joliet, a French gentleman of Quebec, and five French voyageurs and two Indian guides, he started from the straits on an exploring expedition. He "had heard of the great river of the west, and fancied that upon its fertile banks not mighty cities, mines of gold, or fountains of youth, but whole tribes of God's chil- dren, to whom the sound of the Gospel had never come. Filled with the wish to go and preach to them, he obeyed with joy the orders of Talon, the wise intendent of Canada, to lead a party into the unknown distance." Marquette passed down Green Bay to Fox River, which they entered, and dragged their canoes through its strong rapids to a village of Indians where Father Allouez had visited, and where " they found a cross, on which hung skins and belts, bows and arrows, which they had offered to the great Mani- tou (God), to thank him because he had taken pity on them during the win- ter, and had given them abundant chase." Beyond this point no Frenchman had gone, and here was the bound of discovery. " Being guided by the friendly Indians, Marquette and his companions came to the Wisconsin River, about three leagues distant, whose waters flowed westward. They floated down the river till the 17th of June, 1673, when they reached the Mississippi, the great 'Ibther of Waters,' which they en- tered with 'a joy that could not be expressed,' and raising their sails to new skies, and to unknown breezes, floated down this mighty river, between broad plains, garlanded with majestic forests and chequered with illimitable prairies and island groves. They descended about one hundred and eighty miles, when Marquette and Joliet landed, and followed an Indian trail about six miles, to a village. They were met by four old men, bearing the pipe of peace and 'brilliant with many colored plumes.' An aged chief received them at his cabin, and, with uplifted hands, exclaimed: l How beautiful is the sun, frenchmen, when thou earnest to visit us! our whole village awaits thee in peace thou shall enter all our dwellings.' Previous to their departure, an Indian chief selected a peace pipe from among his warriors, embellished with gorgeous plumage, which he hung around the neck of Marquette, 'the mys- terious arbiter of peace and war the sacred calumet the white man's pro- tection among savages.' On reaching their boats, the little group proceeded onward. 'I did not,' says Marquette, ' fear death ; I should have esteemed it the greatest happiness to have died for the glory of God.' They passed the mouth of the Missouri, and the humble missionary resolved in his mind, one day, to ascend its mighty current, and ascertain its source; and descend- ing from thence toward the west, publish the gospel to a people of whom he had never heard. Passing onward, they floated by the Ohio, then, and for a brief time after, called the Wabash, and continued their explorations as far south as the mouth of the Arkansas, where they were escorted to the WISCONSIN. 307 Indian village of Arkansea. Being now satisfied that the Mississippi en- tered the Gulf of Mexico, west of Florida, and east of California; and hav- ing spoken to the Indians of God and the mysteries of the Catholic faith, Marquette and Joliet prepared to ascend the stream. They returned by the /oute of the Illinois River to Green Bay, where they arrived in August. Marquette remained to preach the gospel to the Miamis, near Chicago. Joliet, in person, conveyed the glad tidings of their discoveries to Quebec. They were received with enthusiastic delight. The bells were rung during the whole day, and all the clergy and dignitaries of the place went, in pro- cession, to the cathedral, where Te Deum was sung and high mass cele- brated." Wisconsin was next visited by La Salle and Father Hennepin, a Fancis- can friar, a man of ambition and energy. These adventurers having passed down the Illinois, Hennepin paddled up the Mississippi as far as the Wiscon- sin, where he was taken prisoner by the Indians, who treated him and his companions kindly. They then took them up to the Falls, which Hennepin named St. Anthony, in honor of his patron saint. From this point he re- turned to Canada, by way of Lake Superior, and thence to France. The first permanent settlement by the whites in Wisconsin, appears to have been made at Green Bay, about the year 1745. by Augustin De Langlade, a na- tive of France, of noble family, who emigrated to Canada at an early age. The territory remained under the government of France till 1763, when, at the treaty of Paris, it was ceded to Great Britain, who retained it until the independence of the United States was acknowledged by that country, in 1783, when it was claimed by Virginia as part of the Illinois country, con- quered by Col. George Rodgers Clark. It remained, however, in the posses- sion of Great. Britain till 1796, when it was surrendered in accordance with Jay's treaty, ratified the previous year. In 1784, it was ceded by Virginia to the United States. In 1787, a government was provided for the territory north-west of the Ohio. In 1800, it was divided into two separate govern- ments, the western being called Indiana. In 1809, Indiana was divided and Illinois organized. When Illinois was formed into a state, in 1818, the ter- ritory north of the parallel of Lat. 42 30', west of the middle of Lake Michigan, was attached to the territory of Michigan, which had been set off from Indiana in 1805. In 1832, commenced the " Black HawJe War," the most important actions of which took place within the " Huron District " of Michigan, as Wiscon- sin was then called: they will be found detailed on page 1106 of this work. When Michigan was formed into a state, in 1836, Wisconsin was erected into a separate territorial government. Wisconsin Territory comprised within its limits and jurisdiction the whole region from Lake Michigan to Lake Supe- rior, extending westward to the Missouri River, including all the sources of the Upper Mississippi. Its southern limits were the northern boundaries of the states of Illinois and Missouri, and its extent from north to south was 580 miles, and from east to west 650 miles. The first " governor and super- intendent of Indian affairs " was Henry Dodge, and John S. Homer vyas territorial secretary. Gov. Dodge convened the first territorial legislature at Belmont. now in Lafayette county. The second session was convened in Burlington, now in Iowa, and the next, in 1838, in Madison, the present capital. " The settled portions of the territory were chiefly near the western ehoro cf Lake Michigan, and the organized counties extended westward and south- 308 WISCONSIN. westwardly to the banks of the Fox River of Green Bay, as far as Fort Winnebago, and thence down the Wisconsin River, on the south-eastern side ; for thirty miles below the "portage." At the same time, immigrants, by way of Milwaukie and Racine, were advancing upon the upper tributaries of Rock River, as far west as the "Four Lakes" and Fort Madison. A few settle- ments had extended, likewise, westward to the banks of the Mississippi, north of Galena and the Illinois state line. Others had been slowly, for more than three years, extending west of the Mississippi, upon the waters of the Des Moines, Skunk River, Lower Iowa, and Waubesapinacon, as well as upon the immediate banks of the Mississippi itself. These settlements, for tem- porary government, were annexed to the jurisdiction of the Wisconsin Ter- ritory as the " District of Iowa." . The remainder of the Territory of Wisconsin, north and west of the Wis-. consin River and of Fox River, as well as the northern and western portions of the present state of Iowa, was a savage waste, still in the partial occu- pancy of the remaining tribes of Indians, and in a great degree unknown to civilization. Such were the extent and population of the Wisconsin Terri- tory upon its first independent organization. During the years 1841, 1842, and 1843, emigration from the north-eastern states began to send its floods into the Wisconsin Territory, both by way of the lakes and by way of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, to the banks of the Wisconsin River. Thousands, especially in the latter years, crowded into the beautifully undulating lands along the western shore of Lake Michigan, south of Green Bay, to the Illinois line; and population extended rapidly from the lake shore westward to the banks of Fox River, and along the re- gion south of the Wisconsin River as far as the banks of the Mississippi. Settlements soon spread over this delightful country, diversified by lakes and prairies, in which all the crystal tributaries of Rock River take their rise. A few years before, this had been called the "Far West," beyond the ad- vance of white settlements and civilized life, in the sole occupancy of the most degraded and improvident of the savages, the Winnebagoes, Sauks, and Foxes. Now towns and commerce occupy the seats and haunts of the de- graded Indian, upon which the rays of civilization had never beamed. A large mercantile town, with an active and enterprising community, had sprung up at Milwaukie Bay; a town which, three years afterward, in 1845, became an incorporated city, with extensive powers and privileges, designed to render it the commercial emporium of the future state of Wisconsin. Other trad- ing towns lined the beautiful shore of the lake for many miles north and south of this central depot. During the year 1843, the aggregate number of persons who arrived in the Wisconsin Territory has been estimated at more than sixty thousand, embracing all ages and sexes. Of these, about fifty thousand arrived by way of the lake route. The remainder advanced by way of the Mississippi and Wisconsin Rivers, and comprised a great proportion of foreign emigrants from the German states. These emigrants spread over the country south and east of the Wisconsin River, and opened new settlements upon its northern and western tributaries. In 1845, Wisconsin Territory contained more in- habitants than any other new state possessed upon her admission into the Union; yet the people, satisfied with the territorial form of government de- sired not, in the recent state of the principal settlements, to incur the addi- tipnal expense of an independent state government. Hence, with a popula- tion of more than one hundred and forty thousand souls, the Wisconsin Ter- WISCONSIN. 309 ritory had not, in 1845, made application to congress for authority to estab- lish a state government. In May, 1848, however, Wisconsin was admitted into the Union." Wisconsin is bounded N. by Lake Superior, the upper peninsula of Mich- igan, and Minnesota, W. by Minnesota and Iowa, E. by Lake Michigan, and S. by Illinois. It lies between 42 30' and 46 55' N. Lat., and between 87 and 92 50' W. Long. Its greatest extent north and south is 285 miles, and 255 east and west, having a land area of 53,924 square miles, or 34,511,360 acres, of which 1,045,499 only were improved in 1850. Wisconsin is one of the healthiest of countries, with a dry, transparent, and bracing atmosphere, and remarkably free from fevers and ague. Writers familiar with it, say: "It is, indeed, delightful in speculation to talk of constant spring, of perpetual verdure, of flowers in bloom at all seasons, of purling brooks never obstructed by ice, of a inild climate, where Jack Frost never spreads his white drapery over the surface of the earth ; but it is a problem, not yet fully solved, whether a tropical climate contributes more to one's happiness than the varying seasons of a north- ern clime. Nay, whatever doubt there is on the subject predominates in favor of a northern latitude. Industry, intelligence, morality, and virtue, are exhibited more generally among the inhabitants of northern latitudes than. those of southern. If one's physical enjoyment is equally promoted by the bracing air of a cold cli- mate, then, indeed, the argument is in favor of the latter, for vigor of body and purity of mind are the most essential ingredients in the cup of happiness. The air of our winters is dry and bracing. When snow falls it usually remains on the ground several months, forming an excellent road either for traveling, business, or pleasure. The rivers are securely wedged with ice, rendering many portions of the country more accessible at that season than at any other. An excellent opportu- nity is afforded to the younger portion of the community for innocent amusements sleighing, sliding downhill, and skating amusements highly exhilarating, and promotive alike of health and happiness. These observations have been made be- cause a greater value is often set on a mild southern climate, in reference to its capacity in affording the means of happiness or of health, than it really possesses." "We have always made it a point to inquire of new settlers in Wisconsin how they liked the climate, and the answer invariably was, that it was far superior to that of the states they had left whether Eastern, Middle or Southern, One emi- grant says: 'As the result of my observations, I would state briefly and in this 1 do but repeat a common sentiment that 1 would much rather spend a winter in Wisconsin than in New York or Pennsylvania. True, the weather is cold ; but it is of that settled, steady, clear character, which we here call 'bracing weather.' No damp winds, no sloppy thaw, no uncomfortable rains, but day after day the same unbroken field of snow, the same clear, bright sunshine, the same untroubled air. Winter here holds undisputed sway ; it is not a muddled mixture of all sea- sons, in which the breezy spring, the clear autumn, the sunny summer and the rigorous winter mingle and mix, and come and go together. You will understand the force of this distinction when I tell you that the first fall of snow in Wiscon- sin remains on the ground during the whole winter without a crust; so free is the air from that dampness, which, in other countries produce it. Who among you has not noticed the penetrating character of dampness in cold its chilling, search- ing qualities; or who, on the other hand, has not gone abroad on days of intense coldness, but when the air was dry and pure, and felt elastic, buoyant, and com- fortable. Such is a Wisconsin winter. I suffered less from the cold while here, than I have many times in Pennsylvania when the thermometer stood much higher." Wisconsin may be described generally as an elevated rolling prairie, the highest portion being on the north, and forms the dividing ridge between the waters flowing S.W. into the Mississippi, and those flowing northward and eastward into the lakes. Limestone underlies most of the southern part of 310 WISCONSIN. the state; the northern part is composed of primitive rocks, mostly granite, slate and sand stone. The country south of the middle is a fine agricultural region, producing from 30 to 50 bushels of wheat to the acre. The prairies of Wisconsin are generally small, and being skirted and belted with timber, are adapted to immediate and profitable occupation, the soil being a dark, rich vegetable mold. One peculiarity in southern Wisconsin strikes the traveler the high degree of culture, thrift, and cleanliness of the farms, which is attributed principally to the fact, that almost every quarter section, in its natural state, is ready for plowing and fencing, and also to the charac- ter of the settlers, off- shoots from the hardy and industrious people of the Eastern states and northern Ohio. A large number of Norwegians and other emigrants from northern Europe, have emigrated to this young and thriving State. Vast quantities of pine lumber are obtained from the northern sections of the state, ranging from five to eight millions annually in value, though the business is in its infancy. The agricultural staples are wheat, Indian corn, oats, potatoes, butter, live stock, etc. The wheat crop of 1860 was about 26 millions of bushels. Beside the great lakes, Superior and Michigan, on its northern and eastern shores, Wisconsin has vast numbers of small lakes within its borders, generally characterized by clear water, bold, picturesque shores, with excellent fish. The mineral resources of Wisconsin are important, but as yet imperfectly known. The great lead region, mostly in the south-western part of the state, contain mines supposed to be inexhaustible, and decidedly the richest in the known world. Valuable copper and zinc ores are found at Mineral Point and in its vicinity, also iron ore in various places. The bulk of the population of the state is in its southern part, most of the country in the north being an unexplored wilderness. If as densely settled as Massachu- setts, Wisconsin would contain more than seven millions of inhabitants. Population in 1820, 1,444; in 1830, 3,245; in 1840, 30,945; in 1850, 305,- 566; in 1855, 552,109; and in 1860, 768,585* * Ritchie, ic his work on Wisconsin, pays : " The number of inhabitants in Wisconsin does not exhibit their relative strength and power. Our population are nearly all in the prime of life. You rarely meet a woman past fifty years of age; still more rarely as old a man ; and large numbers are too young to have had many children. The Milwaukie Amer- ican says : ' It is a fact, noticed and remarked by nearly every eastern visitor to the west, that no small amount of the business of the west and north-west is conducted by young men. Go where you will, in every city, town and village, you Trill find more youthful countenances elongated with the cares and anxieties of business pursuits, than those unacquainted with the peculiar circumstances attaching to western life and enterprise could be made to believe. Youth and energy are found conducting and managing our railroads and our banking in- stitutions. Beardless youngsters are seen behind the desks their desks of our counting houses, and in our manufactories, mixed up with our commerce, and, in short, taking active parts in every field of business enterprise. A year's experience as a clerk, or an agent for others, gives him an insight into the modu* operandi of ' making money,' and his wits are get in motion, and his industrious ingenuity brought to bear in his own behalf, and he de- sires to 'go into business for himself.' Frequently with a small capital, oftener with none, he engages in some branch of traffic, and in a few years is ' well to do in the world.' Such is the history of many of the young merchants and business men in our state, and we do not believe that a more enterprising, intelligent, and thorough-going business community can be found than that of Wisconsin. Youth, energy, and a laudable ambition to rise in the world, are characteristic elements of the west: they have made her what she now is, and give glorious promise of her future.' In one of our village or town hotels, crowded with moneyed boarders the merchants, bankers, and chief mechanics of the place two thirds of them will be found to be between twenty-five and thirty years of age ; their wives, of course, still younger. Our population of 1,000,000 are equal in industrial capacity to at least twice that number either in Europe or in the Atlantic states." WISCONSIN. 311 MILWAUKIE, a port of entry, and the largest city in Wisconsin, is built on the west side of Lake Michigan, 75 miles east of Madison, and 85 north of Chicago. Lat. 43 04', Long. 87 57'. The city is built on the flats of the Milwaukie River, and on the bluffs near the lake. The largest lake boats ascend the river two miles. The shore on Lake Michigan consists of a bank South-eastern river view in Milwaukie. The engraving shows a river or harbor view in Milwaukie, as seen from near the point of the entrance of Menominee River. The swing bridges across the river appear in the central part. The terminus of the Milwaukie and Mississippi Railroad is near the building on the extreme left. of clay from 20 to 100 feet hi pany), or from Canada, their "outfit" of goods and merchandise, consisting of ar- ticles adapted to the wants of the natives, and departed for their distant " winter- ing grounds," situated in the wilderness. The principal trading posts, at that period, in northern Wisconsin, were the following: Milwaukie, Sheboygan, and Manitowoc, on Lake Michigan; Menomonee River, Peshtigo and Oconto, on Green Bay ; Fond du Lac, Calumet, and Oshkosh, on Winnebago Lake ; Wolf River, Lake Shawano, and the Portage of the Fox and Wisconsin. At all of these points In- dian villages were located, and it is a remarkable feature in the settlement of Wis- consin, that all or nearly all of the principal cities, towns and villages which now in all directions meet our view, were originally sites of Indian villages; showing that to the sagacity and foresight of the aborigines, rather than to the judgment and dis- crimination of the whites, are we indebted for the beautiful and eligible locations of the towns throughout the state. These traders conveyed the goods, which, however, were not all dry goods, in boats called batteattx, being of light draught of water, and constructed so as to meet with the least opposition from the current in rapids or swift streams, or in *The Mission of St. Francis Xavier, at DePere, was established in 1669: See Jesuit Re- lations, 1669-70; Shea'* Hist. Catholic Mission*; Smith'* Hist. Wisconsin. WISCONSIN". 319 birch bark canoes, which latter were constructed by the Indians. The boat or canoe was manned, according to size and capacity, by a crew consistini;; of from four to ten Canadian voyageurs, or by half-bloods, their descendants. This class, which once occupied so prominent a position in the early recollections of the times, but which has now nearly disappeared from the country they were the first to visit, deserves a passing notice. The Canadian voyageurs, as the name indicates, came originally from Canada, principally from Quebec and Montreal. They were employed by the principal traders, under written contracts, executed in Ciinada, for a term of from three to five years their wages from two hundred and fifty livres (fifty dollars) to seven hundred and fifty livres (one hundred and fifty dol- lars) per year, to which was added what was termed an "outfit," consisting of a Mackinaw blanket, two cotton shirts, a capote or loose sack coat, two pairs of coarse* pants, shoes and socks, and some other small articles, including soap. Their food, when in the "wintering ground," consisted, for the greater portion of the time, of corn and tallow, occasionally enriched by a piece of fat pork or venison and bear meat, when they happened to be plenty ; yet with this spare and simple diet, they were healthy and always cheerful and happy. Their powers of endurance were astonishing. They would row or paddle all day, and when necessary would carry on their hacks, suspended by a strap or band crossing their breast or forehead, large packs of furs or merchandise, weighing from one hundred to one hundred and thirty pounds, for whole days, and when night came, enjoyed their frugal meal and joined in merry jokes, recounted stories of their many hair-breadth escapes by " flood and forest,' or perhaps joined in the dance to the music of the violin, if among their companions any were capable of "sawing sweet sounds." In the spring of the year, they returned to the settlements or principal trading-posts, to spend the summer months in comparative ease, and in the enjoyment of the pas- times and frolics they so highly prized. Always improvident, open-hearted and convivial, they saved nothing, nor thought of the wants of the future, but spent freely the whole of their hard-earned and scanty wages in a few weeks of their stay among their friends, and again returned in the fall to pass through the same routine of toil, hardship, and privation. Intermarriages frequently took place be- tween them and the native women. These marriages were encouraged by the traders, as it not only increased the influence of the traders and their engayees over the Indians, but was the means of securing their trade, bound the men more closely to the country, and insured their continuance in the fur trade, with which they had then become familiar. The half-bloods were the descendants of the early vcyac/eurs, and in character and manners closely resembled their sires. The commerce of the country was carried on through the medium of a few sail vessels plying between this place and the ports on Lake Erie. These vessels were generally of from twenty-five to seventy tuns burden. Occasionally, perhaps once or twice in the season of navigation, a steamer from Buffalo would look in upon us; but these were far different in structure and capacity from the splendid " float- ing palaces" which have visited our waters in later years. All kinds of provisions and supplies were brought here from Ohio and Michigan, and the inhabitants were solely dependent upon those states for everything like provisions, except a limited quantity of grain and vegetables raised by the miserable farmers of the country. The buildings and improvements in the country were then few, and circumscribed within a narrow compass, and in a great degree partook of the unpretending and simple character of their occupants. Some constructed of rough or unhewn logs, covered with cedar bark, here and there a sprinkling of lodges or wigwams, formed by long poles stuck in the ground in a circular form, and brought together and united at the top by a cord, thus forming an inclosure perhaps twelve or fifteen feet in diameter at the base, and covered with large mats composed of a kind of reed or grass, called by the Indians "Puckaway." The mode of ingress and egress was by raising a smaller mat,%overing an aperture left in the side for that purpose. Light was admitted from the top of the structure, through an opening which served as well to emit the smoke from the fire, which was made directly in the center of the habitation. 1'hese wigwams were sometimes occupied by families of the half- blood Canadians and Indians, sometimes by the natives. The inhabitants of the settlement, exclusive of the native Indians, were mostly 320 WISCONSIN. Canadian French, and those of mixed blood. There were, in 1824, at Green Bay, but six or eight resident American families, and the families of the officers sta- tioned at Fort Howard, in number about the same. The "character of the people was a compound of civilization and primitive simplicity exhibiting the polite and lively characteristics of the French and the thoughtlessness and improvidence of the aborigines. Possessing the virtues of hospitality and the warmth of heart unknown to residents of cities, untrammeled by the etiquette and conventional rules of modern "high life," /they were ever ready to receive and entertain their friends, and more intent upon the enjoyment of the present than to lay up store or make provision for the future. Wiih few wants, and contented and happy hearts, they found enjoyment in the merry dance, the sleigh-ride, and the exciting horse /race, and doubtless experienced more true happiness and contentment than the plodding, calculating and money-seeking people of the present day. This was the character of the settlers who occupied this country before the arrival of the Yan- kees a class now entirely extinct or lost sight of by the present population ; but it is one which unites the present with the past, and for whom the "old settlers" entertain feelings of veneration and respect They deserve to be remembered and placed on the pages of history as the first real pioneers of Wisconsin. Several of these persons have left descendants who still survive them; and the names of Lawe, Grignon, Juneau, Porlier, and others of that class, will survive and serve as me- morials of the old race of settlers, long after the last of the present generation shall have been "gathered to their fathers." During the early years of my residence here, the social circle, although limited, was by no means insignificant. It was composed of the families of the garrison and the Americans, and several of the " old settlers." If it was small, it was also united by the ties of friendship and good feeling. Free from the formalities and customs which are observed by the ton of the 'present day, we met to enjoy our- selves, more like members of one family than as strangers. The young people of that period (and all felt young then) would assemble on a few hours' notice at the house of a neighbor, without form or ceremony. Young ladies were then expected to appear at an early hour in the evening, and not at the usual hour of retiring to rest, nor were they required to appear in either court or fancy dresses. The merry dance succeeded, and all enjoyed themselves until an early hour in the morning. One custom prevailed universally, among all classes, even extending to the Indians : that of devoting the holidays to festivity and amusement, but especially that of "calling" on New Year's day. This custom was confined to no class in particu- lar; all observed it; and many met on New Year who perhaps did not again meet till the next All then shook hands and exchanged mutual good wishes all old animosities were forgotten all differences settled, and universal peace established. May this good old custom be long observed, and handed down to future genera- tions as a memento of the good olden time. During the winter season, Green Bay suras entirely insulated. Cut off from communication with all other parts of the civilized world, her inhabitants were left to their own resources for nearly half the year. Our mails were " few and far between," sometimes but once a month never more than twice, did we receive them, so that the news when received here was no longer new. The mails were carried on a man's shoulders from Chicago to Green Bay, through the wilderness, a distance of about two hundred and fifty miles, and could not contain a very great quantity of interesting reading matter. Under such circumstances it became necessary that we should devise some means to enliven our time, and we did so accordingly; and I look back upon those years as among the most agreeable in my life. The country, at that early day, was destitute of roads or places of public enter- tainment nothing but the path, or " Indian trail," traversed the wide expanse of forest and prairie from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi, and the travel by land was performed on foot or horseback; but there was men another mode of locomo- tion, very generally adopted by those who took long journeys now become obso' lete, and which would doubtless be laughed at by the present " fast going" genera- tion that of the Indian or bark canoe. I will not take time to describe the vessel, as most of you have doubtless seen such, and perhaps many, now present, have taken voyages in these frail barks. The canoe was used in all cases where com- WISCONSIN. 321 fort and expedition were desired. You may smile at the use of the terms " com- fort and expedition," where the traveler sat cooped up all day in a space about four feet square, and at night encamped on the bank of the stream, cooked his own supper, and slept on the ground, with no covering but a tent and blanket, or, often times, nothing but the wide canopy of heaven having, after a day of toil and la- bor by his crew, accomplished a journey of thirty to forty miles ! But these jour- neys were not destitute of interest. The voyageur was enlivened by the merry song of his light-hearted and ever happy Canadian crew his eye delighted by the constant varying scenery of the country through which he passed at liberty to Belect a spot for his encampment, and to stop when fatigued with the day's travel and, above all, free from care and from the fearful apprehensions of all modern travelers on railroads and steamboats, that of being blown up, burned, or drowned. J can better illustrate this early mode of travel, by giving an account of a " party of pleasure," undertaken and accomplished by myself. In May, 1830, being obliged to go on the annual circuit to Prairie du Chien, to attend court, I concluded to make it a matter of pleasure as well as business. I accordingly obtained a good sized and sub- stantial north-west bark canoe about five fathoms, or thirty feet, in length, and five feet wide in the center a good tent, or "markee," together with mattresses, blankets, bedding, mess basket, and all other things required as an "outfit" on such expeditions. The party consisted of my wife, self, two small children, two young ladies as compan- ions, and a servant girl ; my crew, of four Canadians experienced men and good singers and two Menomonee Indians, as bow and steersmen. The canoe was propelled both by oars and paddles. We ascended the Fox River to Fort Winnebago, and descended the Wisconsin to the Mississippi, and thence up the latter four miles to Prairie du Chien. The voyage occupied eight or nine days m going, and about the same length of time in return- ing during which the ladies "camped out" every night save two. They did all the cooking and household work; the former was no small item for, with appetites, sharpened by pure air and exercise, and with abundance of fresh venison, with fowl and fish, to satisfy them, the quantity of viands consumed by the party would; have astonished modern epicures, and perhaps shock the delicate tastes of city belles. We frequently encamped early in the afternoon at some spot which at- tracted our attention from its natural beauty, or romantic appearance and strolled; along the bank of the stream, plucking beautiful wild flowers, which abounded,, or clambering up some high bluff or commanding headland, obtained a view of the surrounding country, and traced the meandering stream through its high banks, far in the distance. It was in the merry month of May, when the forest was- clothed in its deepest verdure the hills and prairies redolent with flowers,, and the woods tenanted by melodious songsters. It was truly a " trip of pleasure " and enjoyment. Many trips for pleasure have been undertaken, where the parties may have experienced the refinements and accommodations, and enjoyed the luxuries to be found, in the present day, in old and long settled countries but 1. believe fuw, if any, realized more true delight and satisfaction, than did this "Party of Pleasure in a 15ark Canoe." The present "State of Wisconsin," although formerly a part of the Territory of Michigan, was for many years rather an appendage than a component pari;of that 21 THE PORTAGE. The engraving represents a party of voyageurs carrying their l>ark canoe and packing their " plunder " over a portage. The term "portage" is applied to those points where the canoes are carried by land around rapids or other ob.structions in a river, or from the head-waters of one stream to those of another, as between those of the Fox and Wisconsin Kiyers. 322 WISCONSIN. territory. In 1824, things had assumed a more orderly and regular character ; jus- tice was administered according to the established rules and practice of other states, and of the common law. But in the subordinate, or justices' courts, many singular incidents transpired. I happened to be present at a trial which took place in a justice's court in Iowa county. The court was held in a small log school-house. The suit was brought to recover the amount of a note of hand. The defendant plead either payment or want of consideration each party had employed counsel, and a jury of six were impanneled to try the issue. A witness was called and sworn. In the course of the examination, one of the counsel objected to some leading question put by the opposite side, or to some part of the witness' answer as improper testimony. The justice overruled the objection, and the witness proceeded; but ere long another objection similar to the first was made from the same side. On this second objection being made, the foreman of the jury, a large and portly individual, who bore the title of colonel, and, probably owing to his exalted military rank, was permitted to wear his hat during the trial, manifested a good deal of impatience, shown by fidgeting in his seat and whispering to his fellow jurors; but the justice again overruled the objection and told the witness to proceed. This he did for a short time, when he made a statement which was clearly irrelevant and contrary to every rule of evi- dence an'd common sense. The attorney who had so often and so unsuccessfully attempted to exclude this sort of evidence, could no longer silently submit he again rose from his seat and most respectfully appealed to the court, protesting against such statements going to the jury as testimony. Thereupon the worthy foreman rose from his seat, and swore he would no longer sit there to hear the ob- jections of that fellow. That he had taken an oath as a juror, to decide the case Voyageurs Camp. The day's toil ended, they rest from labor. according to the evidence, and if he could not hear the whole story from the wit ness, he should leave. Accordingly he made several strides toward the door, when the justice rose from the bench, and approaching the juror, placed his hand upon the colonel's shoulder, and begged that he should return to his seat, promising that the troublesome attorney should not again interfere. After some persuasion, ho consented to do so at the same time, while pressing his hat more firmly upon his WISCONSIN. 303 head, he exclaimed, "Well, I'll try ifc once more, but - if I will stand any mon of that fellow s nonsense." The attorney gave up in despair, and the opposite f txmsel had it all his own way. South-western view of Madison. Shows the appearance of the city, as seen from Washineton-avenue, near the railroad station ; the City Hall appears on the left ; the Court House on the right ; the Episcopal Church, State Capitol, the Baptist and Catholic Churches in the central part. MADISON, the county seat of Dane county, and capital of Wisconsin, is 80 miles W. of Milwaukie, about 100 E. from Prairie du Chien, and 154 N.W. of Chicago. It is generally pronounced to possess the finest natural site of any' inland town in the Union. It is situated on rising ground, an isthmus between Third and Fourth Lakes of the chain called Four Lakes. U 0n the northwest is Lake Mendota, nine miles long and six wide; on the east Lake Monona, five miles long and three wide. The city is celebrated for the beauty, health and pleasantness of its location; commanding, as it does, a view of nearly every characteristic of country peculiar to the west the prairie, oak opening, mound, lake, and woodland. The surface of the ground is some- what uneven, but in no place too abrupt for building purposes. The space between these lakes is a mile in width, rising gently as it leaves their banks to an altitude of about seventy feet, and is then alternately depressed and elevated, making the site of the city a series of gently undulating swells. On the most elevated ground is the state house, a fine structure of limestone, in the center of one of Nature's Parks of fifteen acres, overlooking the "Four Lakes" and the surrounding city. From this the streets diverge in every direction, with a gradual descent on all sides. To the west, about a mile distant, is the State University, in the midst of a park of 40 acres, crowning a beautiful eminence, 125 feet above the lake. This institution was founded in 1848, and has an annual income of $30,000. On the south side of Lake Monona is a spacious Water-Cure establishment, surrounded by an extensive grove, and presenting a very striking appearance on approaching 324 WISCONSIN. the city. Around Madison, in every direction, is a well-cultivated, and beau- tiful undulating country, which is fast being occupied by pleasant homes." Madison possesses many handsome buildings and several churches of a superior order. Beside the State University, it has other literary institutions, male and female, of the first order, about 20,000 volumes in its public libra- ries, and is generally regarded as the literary emporium of the state, being the point for the assemblage of conventions of all kinds, and a favorite re- sort for the literary and scientific men of ^Wisconsin. The town is a thriv- ing business place, and has ample railroad connections with all parts of the country. Population, in 1860, 6,800. The "STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF WISCONSIN," organized in Madi- son in 1849, is the most valuable and flourishing institution of the kind west of the Alleghanies. By an act, most honorable to this growing state, the sum of one thousand dollars annually has been granted to promote its ob- jects. This society, although in its infancy, has already secured a most val- uable collection of books and papers ; also an interesting collection of orig- inal paintings of distinguished men, ancient relics, etc. The following article upon the history of Madison, is from the pen of Lyman C. Draper, Esq., Cor. Sec. Wisconsin Historical Society, a gentleman who has probably col- lected more original unpublished materials for western history, than any per- son living in this state or in any other: "The site of Madison attracted the attention of Hon. James D. Doty, as early as 1832. In the spring of 1836, in company with Hon. S. T. Mason, of Detroit, he purchased the tract of land occupied by the present city. The first cost of this tract was about $1,500. The territorial legislature which met at Belmont, Lafayette county, the next winter, passed an act locating the capital here, and John Catlin and Moses M. Strong staked out the center of the village in February of the same winter. In the mean time commission- ers were appointed by the general government, to construct the capitol edi- fice : Messrs. James D. Doty, A. A. Bird, and John F. O'Neil, were the com- missioners. Eben Peck was sent on with his family to erect a house, where the men employed in building the capitol might board and lodge, and was the first settler at Madison. He arrived on the 14th of April, in 1837, and put up a log house, which remains standing to this day, upon its original site, on block 107, Butler-street. This was, for about a year, the only public house in Madison. On the 10th of June succeeding, A. A. Bird, the acting commissioner for constructing the capitol, accompanied by a party of thirty-six workmen, ar- rived. There was no road, at that time, from Milwaukie to the capital, and the party were compelled to make one for their teams and wagons as they came along. They left Milwaukie on the 1st of June, with four teams. It rained incessantly, the ground, drenched with water, was so soft that even with an ordinary road, their progress would have been slow, but when to this are added the obstructions of fallen trees, unbridged streams, hills whose steepness labor had not yet mitigated, and the devious course which they ne- cessarily pursued, it is not surprising that ten days were spent in accomplish- ing a journey, which, since the advent of the iron horse into the Four Lake country, we are able to perform in a little more than three hours. They forded Rock River near the site of the present city of Watertown, and the Crawfish at Milfbrd. The first glimpse they had of the sun during their journey was on the prairie, in this county, now known as the Sun Prairie a name given it at the time, as a compliment to the luminary which beamed WISCONSIN. 325 forth so auspiciously and cheerfully on that occasion, and possibly to encour- age Old Sol to persevere in well doing. Among the party that came with Bird was Darwin Clark, Charles Bird, David Hyer, and John Pierce ; the latter accompanied by his family, being the second settler with a family. On the same day that this party reached here, Simeon Mills, now a resident of Madison, and well known through the county, arrived from Chicago. John Catlin had been appointed postmaster, but was not here, and Mr. M. acted as his deputy. He erected a block build- ing, fifteen feet square, and in this opened the postoffice and the first store in Madison. The building is yet extant, and at present stands in the rear of a blacksmith shop, and is used as a coal house. During the following month John Catlin arrived, and was the first member of the legal profession that settled in Madison. William N. Seymour, another old settler and well known citizen, came here the same season, and was the second lawyer in the place. The workmen upon the capitol proceeded at once to getting out stone and timber for that edifice, and, on the Fourth of July, the corner stone was laid, with due ceremony. Speeches were made on the occasion and toasts drunk, whether in cold water, or some stronger beverage, tradition does not mention. The first framed building erected was a small office for the acting commis- sioner; the first framed dwelling was built by A. A. Bird. This still stands upon its original site, on the bank of Lake Monona, back of the Capital House. The boards used in these buildings were sawed by hand. A steam saw mill, to saw lumber for the capitol, was built during the latter part of the same season, on the shore of Lake Mendota, just below the termination of Pinkney-street. In the month of September, of the same year, John Stoner arrived, being the third settler with a family. A Methodist clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Stebbins, the presiding elder of the territory, preached the first ser- mon delivered in 'Madison, during the same month. Four families, with their inmates and guests, constituted the entire population of Madison, and with two or three families at Blue Mounds, the whole population of Dane county during the winter of 18378. In the spring of 1838, Messrs. A. A. Bird, Simeon Mills, William A. Wheeler, and others, who spent the winter here, brought on their families and became permanent residents. During the summer the Madison Hotel was built, and the first session of the supreme court of the territory was held in July, in the sitting room. Judge Dunn, of Lafayette county, was then chief justice, with Judges Frazier and Irwin as associates. The work on the capitol went on somewhat slowly. On the 8th of November, the Wisconsin Enquirer, by J. A. Noonan, made its appear- ance, being the pioneer paper at the capital. The resident population of Madison, the second winter, was about one hundred souls. The first female child born in Madison was Wisconsinia Peck, born in the fall of 1837; the first male child was Madison Stoner, born in 1838. Dr. Almon Lull, the first physician, settled here during the same, year. The Wisconsin Enquirer of May 25, 1839, contains an article respecting Dane county, in which the population of the county is estimated at over three hundred, more than half of whom resided in Madison. This was, doubtless, too high an estimate, as the population by the census of 1840 was but 314. The village then contained two stores, three public houses, three groceries, and one steam mill in all, thirty-five buildings. The same article states that prices had ranged during the year then past as follows: corn, $1 25 326 WISCONSIN. per bushel; oats, 75 cents; potatoes, $1 00; butter, 37^ to 62^ cents; eggs, 37^ to 75 cents per dozen; pork and beef, from 7 to 12 cents per pound. The anniversary of our national independence was celebrated in due style, for the first time in Madison, this season. John Catlin, Esq., was president of the day; A. A. Bird and Simeon Mills, vice presidents. The Declaration was read by Geo. P. Delaplaine, and the oration pronounced by William T. Ster- ling. Hon. E. Brigham acted as marshal. For a number of years the growth of the village was slow. Immediately after the location of the capital, all the lands in the vicinity were entered by speculators, and lots and land were held at a prospective value. The lo- cation being at a central point between the Mississippi and Lake Michigan, the advancing army of immigrants, on either hand, found a wide, fertile and beautiful extent of country, at that time nearer market, and therefore holding out superior attractions to the agriculturist. They did not consequently care to indulge the speculator's appetite for fancy prices. This condition of affairs continued until 1848. In the meantime the fertile valley of Rock River had been filled with settlers, and immigration began to turn into Dane county, which possesses a soil as bountiful and a surface of country as attractive as any county in the state, but which, before it was tapped by railroads, was too far from market to render agriculture remunerative. The beginning of the real prosperity and growth of Madison commenced with'the admission of the state into the Union, in 1848. ' The constitutional convention then permanently located the capital here; until that time there had been fears of its removal, and capitalists had hesitated to invest their money in the vicinity. Since that period its progress in wealth and popula- tion has been rapid and constant. In 1847, L. J. Farwell, of Milwaukie, attracted by the beauty of the lo- cation, and foreseeing its advantages as the natural business center of the in- terior, the point of convergence of the principal lines of travel, and the cap- ital of the state, made an extensive purchase of real estate, comprising a portion of the village plat and of lands lying adjacent, which included the unimproved water power between Lakes Monona and Mendota. To the active enterprise, the liberal policy, and the public spirit of this gentle- man, Madison is largely indebted for her present prosperity and growing greatness." We conclude this sketch of Madison with Child's account of the first ses- sion of the territorial legislature in the place, which met Nov. 26, 1838: The new capitol edifice was not yet in a suitable condition to receive the legis- lature ; so we had to assemble in the basement of the old American House, where Gov. Dodge delivered hia first message at the new seat of government. We ad- journed from day to day, until we could get into the new capitol building. At length we took possession of the new Assembly Hall. The floors were laid with green oak boards, full of ice ; the walls of the room were iced over ; green oak beats, and desks made of rough boards; one fire-place and one small stove. In a few days the flooring near the stove and fire-place so shrunk on account of the heat, that a person could run his hands between the boards. The basement story was all open, and James Morrison's large drove of hogs had taken possession - r they were awfully poor, and it would have taken two of them, standing side by side, to have made a decent shadow on a bright day. We had a great many smart mem- bers in the house, and sometimes they spoke for Buncombe. When members of this ilk would become too tedious, I would take a long pole, go at the hogs, and stir them up; when they would raise a young pandemonium for noise and confusion. The speaker's voice would become completely drowned, and he would be compelled to atop, not, however, without giving his squealing disturbers a sample of his swear- ing ability. WISCONSIN. 327 The weather was cold; the halls were cold, our ink would freeze, everything f roze go when we could stand it no longer, we passed a joint resolution to adjourn for twenty days. I was appointed bj the two houses to procure carpeting for both halls during the recess; I bought all I could find in the territory, and brought it to Madison, and put it down after covering the floor with a thick coating of hay. After this, we were more comfortable. The American Hotel was the only public house in Madison, except that Mr. Peck kept a few boarders in his old log house, which was still standing not long since. We used to have tall times in those days times long to be remembered. The Forty Thieves were then in their in- fancy; stealing was carried on in a small way. Occasionally a bill would be fairly stolen through the legislature; and the territory would get gouged a little now and then. Tlic Four Lakes. The " FOUR LAKES," in the midst of which Madison is so beautifully placed, is a striking feature of the country, which is called the "garden spot" of Wisconsin. The land around them is undulating, and consists mostly of prairies and "oak openings," bearing in some respects a resemblance to En- glish park scenery. Fourth Lake, or Lake Meudota, is the largest of the chain, and from 50 to 70 feet deep. It is navigable for small steamers. " The land around this lake rises gradually from its margin, and forms, in the distance, the most beautiful elevations, the slopes of which are studded with clumps of woods, and groves of trees, forming the most charming natural scenery. The water of all these lakes, coming from springs, is cold and clear to a remarkable degree. For the most part, their shores are made of a fine gravel shingle ; and their bottoms, which are visible at a great depth, are composed of white sand, interspersed with granite bowlders. Their banks, with few exceptions, are bold. A jaunt around them affords almost every variety of scenery bold escarpments and overhanging bluffs, elevated peaks, and gently sloping shores, with graceful swells or intervals, affording mag- nificent views of the distant prairies and openings; they abound in fish of a great .variety, and innumerable water-fowl sport upon the surface. Persons desiring to settle in pleasant locations, with magnificent water views and wood- 328 WISCONSIN. land scenery, may find hundreds of unoccupied places of unsurpassed beauty upon and near their margins." The term " Four Lake Country," is applied to Dane county, in which these lakes are situated. This county contains about 1,250 square miles, nearly equal to the entire state of Rhode Island, which has 1,300 square miles. Only one sixth of the land is yet settled, and all is susceptible of culture. il Were Dane county as thickly settled as the French departments of Rhone, Nord, and Lower Rhine, it would sustain a population of 700,000 souls." The first permanent American settler, within the limits of Dane county, was Ebenezer Brigham, of Blue Mounds. " He journeyed from Massachusetts to St. Louis in 1818; thence, in the spring of 1828, he removed to Blue Mounds, the most advanced outpost in the mines, and has resided there ever since, being, by four years at least, the oldest white settler in the county. The isolated position he thus settled upon will be apparent from the statement of a few facts. The nearest settler was at what is now Dodgeville, about twenty miles distant. Mineral Point, and most of the other diggings, where villages have since grown up, had not then been discovered. On the south-east, the nearest house was on the O'Plaine River, twelve miles west of Chicago. On the east, Solomon Juneau was his nearest neighbor, at the mouth of the Milwaukie River; and on the north-east, Green Bay was the nearest settlement Fort Winnebago not then being projected. The country at this time was part of Michigan Territory. For several years after his coming the savages were sole lords of the soil. A large Indian village stood near the mouth of Token creek; another stood on the ridge between the Second and Third Lakes, in plain view of Madison ; and their wigwams were scattered all along the streams, the remnants of their gardens, etc., being still visible. Then there was not a civilized village in the state of any con- siderable size. When the capital was located, he was the nearest settler to it twenty-four miles distant! He stood on the ground before its selection as the seat of government was thought of, and from the enchanting beauty of the spot, pre- dicted that a village would be built there." Watertown, Jefferson county, is finely situated on both sides of Rock River, on the Fond du Lac and Rock River Railroad, 40 miles easterly from Madi- son, at the great bend of the river, at the foot of Johnson's Rapids, where a dam across the river creates a great water power, which is extensively used for manufacturing purposes. It was settled in 1836, and has had a rapid growth.* Population, in 1860, 5,800. PRAIRIE DU CHIEN, the county seat of Crawford county, stands upon the left bank of the Mississippi, at the terminus of the Milwaukie and Mis- sissippi Railroad, about three miles above the mouth of Wisconsin River, 96 miles W. of Madison, 192 from Milwaukie, 529 above St. Louis, and 296 below the Falls of St. Anthony. "It is beautifully situated on a dry allu- vial prairie, about six miles in length along the river, by two miles wide. The southern and widest portion of the prairie is gently undulating, and so high above the river as never to be subject to inundation, and it is one of the best sites for a town on the river. The water is deep, affording natural and spacious harbors. On the opposite side of the river the bluffs rise directly from the water, are covered with a thick growth of forest trees, and are only broken by ravines, which afford roadways into the country west from the river. There is no room for any considerable town to be built on the river elsewhere, nearer than Dubuque, seventy miles south of this place, and for a distance of nearly one hundred miles north, on account of the high bluffs which rise, like the highlands of the Hudson, from the water's edge. Prairie WISCONSIN. 329 du Chien can never have a competitor for the western trade between those limits." There are two landings here, one at the terminus of the Milwaukie and Mississippi Railroad, on the slough around the eastern side of an island in the Mississippi, the other, McGregor's landing, about 1^ miles northward of South-western view of Fort Crawford, at Prairie du Chien. The Hospital is situated on the right. The high grounds seen back from the fort, with the horizontal ranges of stone cropping out from the surface, is characteristic of the appearance of the blufis on thia Bide of the Mississippi. the railroad depot. Fort Crawford, now occupied by several laborers and their families, is delightfully situated on a gentle elevation of the prairie, about half a mile from the shore. Water is obtained within the walls of the fort from a well 65 feet deep. Population is about 5,000. According to tradition, Prairie du Chien was named from an Indian chief by the name of Chien, or Dog, who had a village on the prairie, near where Fort Crawford now stands Cliic,n, or Dog, is a favorite name among the In- dians of the north-west. About the year 1737, the French established a trading post at this place, and built a stockade around their dwellings to protect them from the Indians, and from that day to modern times it con- tinued to be a trading and military post, though occasionally a worn out voy- ageur got married and settled down upon the spot. The land at this point was not purchased from the Indians, and none surveyed except the private claims on the prairie, for many years after the government took possession of it as a military post. There were not, until 1835, any Americans that emigrated to the prairie for settlement. In 1819, Lewis Cass, the governor of Michigan Territory, sent blank com- missions for the different officers of the counties, to be filled up by the in- habitants. " These were taken by Lieut. Col. Leavenworth, then on his way, with the fifth regiment, to occupy Forts Crawford and Armstrong, and to build a fort at the mouth of St. Peters. Two companies of this regiment, under Maj. Muhlenberg, were detached to Prairie du Chien. Soon after re- ceiving the blank commissions, the principal inhabitants assembled at the house of Nicholas Boilvin, and appointed John W. Johnson, U. S. factor, as chief justice of the county court; Wilfred Owens, judge of probate; N. Boilvin, J. W. Johnson, and James H. Lockwood, justices of the peace; J, S. Findley, clerk; J. P. Gates, register; and Thomas McNair, sheriff. 330 WISCONSIN. The following extracts are copied from vol. 2 of the "Collections of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin," from an article entitled "Early Times and Events in, Wisconsin," by Hon. James H. Lockwood: "In the year 1820-'21, the county authorities of Crawford erected a jail in the old village of Prairie du Chien, in the rear of village lot No. 17 of that village, made of hewn oak logs of about one foot square; the house was 25 by 16 feet, and divided by the same kind of logs into a debtors' and criminals' apartments. There is a tract of land nearly opposite the old village of Prairie du Chien in Iowa, which was granted by the Spanish lieut. governor of Louisiana to one Bazil Girard, and running through it was a small stream or brook, usually called Girard's creek; but, in 1823, the commandant of Fort Crawford had a body of men detailed to cultivate a public garden on the old farm of Gi- rard, on said creek, and Martin Scott, then a lieutenant of the fifth infantry, and stationed at Fort Crawford, was directed to superintend the party. Fond of shooting, aud a great shot generally, he took his dogs and gun every morning, got into his little hunting canoe, and spent the day in shooting woodcocks which were plenty in the marshes about there, and returning in the evening would boust of the number that had bled that day. After a while he gave the creek the name of Bloody Run, which name it still bears. The name generally suggests to strangers the idea of some bloody battle having been fought there, and I have been frequently questioned as to the tradition relative to it. and a few years since the editor of our village paper had somewhere picked up the same romantic idea, and published a long tra- ditionary account of a bloody battle pretended to have been fought there years ago. But the creek is indebted for its name to the hunting exploits of Major Martin Scott, when a lieutenant, and stationed at Fort Crawford. On the 16th of September, 1816, I arrived at Prairie du Chien. a traders' village of between twenty-five and thirty houses, situated on the banks of the Mississippi, on what, in high water, is an island. The houses were built by planting posts upright in the ground with grooves in them, so that the sides could be filled in with split timber or round poles, and then plastered over with clay, and white-washed with a white earth found in the vicinity, and then covered with bark, or clapboards riven from oak. The village, now called the old village of Prairie du Chien, was designated by Lyons as the main village, as it was so at the time he surveyed the private land claims of Prairie du Chien. There were on the prairie about forty farms cultivated along under the bluffs, where the soil was first rate, and inclosed in one common field, and the boundaries generally between them marked by a road that afforded them ingress and egress to their fields ; the plantations running from the bluffs to the Mississippi, or to the slough of St. Freole, and from three to five arpents wide. The owners did not generally live immediately on their farms, but clustered together in little villages near their front, and were much the same description of inhabitants as those of Green Bay, except that there were a number of families of French extraction, entirely unmixed with the natives, who came from the French villages of Illinois. The fanners' wives instead of being* of the Indian tribes about, were generally of the mixed blood. They were living in Arcadian simplicity, spending a great part of their time in fishing, hunting, horse racing or trotting, or in dancing and drinking. They had little or no ambition for progress and improvement, or in any way bettering their condition, provided their necessities were supplied, and they WISCONSIN. 331 could often collect together and dance and frolic. With these wants grati- fied, they were perfectly satisfied to continue he same routine and habits of their forefathers before them. They had no aristocracy among them except the traders, who were regarded as a privileged class. It was said, that about 1809 or 1810, a trader, an Irishman by birth, of the name of Campbell, was appointed by the U. S. government sub-Indian agent at Prairie du Chien, and by the governor of the Territory of Illinois a justice of the peace. The currency of Prairie du Chien was at that time flour, and Campbell charged for celebrating the rites of matrimony 100 pounds of flour, and for dissolving it 200 pounds, alleging that when people wanted to get unmarried, they would willingly give double what they would originally to form the matrimonial connection. In speaking of the courts of justice of the country, and of their county seats, Mr. Brisbois related to me, that sometime previous to the war of 1812, he and Mr. Campbell had a dispute about a heifer that was worth at the time perhaps eight dollars ; and as each believed it to be his property, they applied to the lawyer at Cahokia to assist them in finding out who was the real owner. The mode of traveling in those days was in a canoe, manned with six or eight men to paddle, and taking with them some flour, tea, and sugar for the Burgeois; and some hulled corn and deer tallow, enough to season the soup, for the men, depending upon shooting game by the way, or buying wild fowl or venison from the Indians. The parties litigant were obliged to take their witnesses with them, paying them for their time and ex- penses, from their departure until their return home. The parties were also obliged to take a bundle of beaver skins, and dispose of them at St. Louis to pay the expenses of lawyers, etc.; and the lawyers, as usual, were disposed to oblige the parties by putting over the case from time to time, and the parties continued the suit in this manner, until it had cost them about fifteen hundred dollars each, when they took it out of court and settled it. But which retained the heifer, if I ever heard, ! do not now recollect. The coutume de Paris so far prevailed iu this country generally, that a part of the ceremony of marriage was the<|ptering into a contract in writing, gen- erally giving, if no issue, the property to the survivor; and if they desired to be divorced, they went together before the magistrate, and made known their wishes, and he, in their presence, tore up the marriage contract, and according to the custom of the country, they were then divorced. I was once present at Judge Abbott's at Mackinaw, when a couple presented them- selves before him, and were divorced In this manner. When the laws of Michigan were first introduced at Prairie du Chien, it was with difficulty that the justice of the peace could persuade them that a written contract was not necessary, and some of them believed that because the contract of marriage gave the property to the survivor, that they were not obliged to pay the debts which the deceased owed at the time of his death. There was an instance of this at Prairie du Chien. A man by the name of Jean Marie Quen (de Lamouche), who had been married by contract, died without issue, leaving a widow, some personal property, and a good farm, but was indebted to Joseph liolette about $300. which his widow refused to pay, alleging that the contract of marriage gave her all the property ; nor could she be convinced to the contrary, until I had brought a suit against her and obtained a judgment." " In speaking of the early settlers, and their marriage connections, 1 should per- haps explain a little. In the absence of religious instructions, and it becoming so 332 WISCONSIN common to see the Indians use so little ceremony about mairiage, the idea of a verbal matrimonial contract became familiar to the early French settlers, and they fenerally believed that such a contract was valid without any other ceremony, [any of the women, married in this way, believed, in their simplicity and igno- rance, that they were as lawfully the wives of the men they lived with, as though they had been married with all the ceremony and solemnity possible. A woman of Prairie du Chien, respectable in her class, told me that she was attending a ball in the place, and that a trader, who resided on the Lower Mississippi, had hia canoe loaded to leave as soon as the ball was over, proposed to marry her; and as he was a trader and ranked above her, she was pleased with the offer, and as his janoe was waiting, he would not delay for further ceremony. She stepped from the ball-room on board his canoe, and went with him down the Mississippi, and they lived together three or four years, and she had two children by him. She assured me that she then believed herself as much the wife of this man as if she had been married with all the ceremony of the most civilized communities, and was not convinced to the contrary, until he unfeelingly abandoned her and married another; and from her manner of relating it, I believed her sincere." The traders in the British interest, in the war of 1812, resorted to Mack- inaw as their head-quarters. In order to obtain the whole control of the Indian trade, they fitted out an expedition under Col. McKay, consisting of three or four companies of Canadians, commanded by traders and officered by their clerks, all in red coats, with a body of Indians. Having made a secret march, they arrived on the prairie without being expected. Making a formidable show, and the Americans being out of ammunition and provis- ions, they surrendered, and the British kept possession during the war. "In the spring of 1817, a Roman Catholic priest from. St. Louis, called Pero Priere. visited Prairie du Chien. He was the first that had been there for many years, and perhaps since the settlement, and organized a Roman Catholic Church, and disturbed some of the domestic arrangements of the inhabitants. He found several women who had left their husbands and were living with other men; these lie made by the terror of his church to return and ask pardon of their husbands, fu?d to be taken back by them, whic^they of course could not refuse. Brevet General Smyth, the colonel of the rifle regiment, who came to Prairie du Chien to erect Fort Crawford, in 1816, had arrived in June, and selected the mound where tliQ stockade had been built, and tffe ground in front, to include the most thickly inhabited part of the village. The ground thus selected encroached upon the ancient burying ground of the prairie, so that the inhabitants were obliged to remove their dead to another place. During the winter of 1816, or early in the spring of 1817, Lieut. Col. Talbot Chambers arrived at Fort Crawford, and assumed the command, and the houses in the village being an obstruction to the garrison, in the spring of 1817, he ordered those houses in front and about the fort to be taken down by their owners, and re- moved to the lower end of the village, where he pretended to give them lots." "When I first came to the country, it was the practice of the old traders and interpreters to call any inferior article of goods American, and to speak to the In- dians in a contemptuous manner of the Americans and their goods, and the goods which they brought into the country but too generally warranted this reproach. But after Mr. Astor had purchased out the South-west Company and established the American Fur Company, he succeeded in getting suitable kinds of goods for the Indians, except at first the North-west Indian gun. He attempted to introduce an imitation of them, manufactured in Holland, but it did not succeed, as the In- dians soon detected the difference. At that time there were generally collected at Prairie du Chien, by the traders and (J. S. factors, about three hundred packs of one hundred pounds each of furs and peltries, mostly fine furs. Of the different Indian tribes that visited and traded more or less at Prairie du Chien, there were the Menomonees, from Green Bay, who frequently wintered on the Mississippi; the Chippewas, who resided on the head waters of the Chippewa and Black Rivers ; the Foxes, who had a large village WISCONSIN. 333 where Cassville now stands, called Penah, i. e. Turkey; the Sauks, who resided about Galena and Dubuque; the Winnebagoes, who resided on the Wisconsin Eiver; the lowas, who then had a village on the Upper Iowa River; Wabashaw's band of Sioux, who resided on a beautiful prairie on the Iowa side of the Missis- sippi, about one hundred and twenty miles above Prairie du Chien, with occasion- ally a Kickapoo and Pottawatomie. The Sauks and Foxes brought from Galena a considerable quantity of lead, molded in the earth, in bars about two feet long, and from six to eight inches wide, and from two to four inches thick, being something of an oval form, and thickest in the middle, and generally thinning to the edge, and weighing from thirty to forty pounds. It was not an uncommon thing to see a Fox Indian arrive at Prairie du. Chien, with a hand sled, loaded with twenty or thirty wild turkies for sale, as they were very plenty about Cassville, and occasionally there were some killed opposite Prairie du Chien." "In the year 182S, Gen. Joseph M. Street was appointed Indian agent at Prairie du Chien, and arrived alone in the fall of that year to assume the duties of his office; and, in the winter, returned to Illinois, and brought his family to Prairie du Chien in the spring of the following year, being the first family who settled in Prairie du Chien that made a profession of the Protestant faith of any of the dif- ferent sects." "In 1830, the present Fort Crawford was commenced, and in 1831, it was occu- pied with a part of the troops, leaving the sick in the old hospital, and the surgeon in the old fort. The fort, 1 think, was finished in 1832. In 1833, the authorities of Crawford county concluded to build a court house and jail, and commenced raising funds by increasing the taxes; and, in 1836, constructed a stone building of sufficient size to have on the ground floor a room each for criminals and debtors, and two rooms for the jailer, with a court room and two jury rooms on the second floor. The taxable inhabitants then in the county were confined to the prairie. We were then attached to Michigan Territory, and so well were our county affairs managed, that the taxes were not raised more than five mills on a dollar to pay for this improvement; and this was the first court house erected in Wisconsin." The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in a small grave- yard, in a grove of locust trees, a short distance north of Fort Crawford : Sacred to the memory of CAPT. EDGAR M. LACY, 5th Reg. U. S. Inft., who died at Fort Crawford, April 2, 1839, aged 33 years. He awaits the last REVIEW. Erected by the 5th Infantry. Sacred to the memory of WILLOUGJIBY MORGAN, Col. 1st Infy, U. S. Army, who died at Fort Crawford, April 4, 1832. Erected by tho 5th Infantry. RACINE is on the W. shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Root River, 73 miles E.S.E. from Madison, 23 S.E. from Milwaukie. and 62 N. from Chi- cago. The Chicago and Milwaukie Railroad, connecting with the Racine and Mississippi Railroad, here opens a vast extent of prairie country to its trade. The outlet of Root River at this place gives it great commercial advantages ; the average width in the city being 230 feet, and for more than half a mile it is 12 feet deep. Lake Michigan is 70 miles wide opposite Racine; the harbor is one of the most commodious on the entire chain of lakes. The city is finely located upon the high banks of the lake and river. Its broad, straight, and beautifully shaded avenues extend along the lake for miles. It contains several splendid buildings, 18 churches, among which are 4 German, 3 Welsh, and 1 Scandinavian; 4 newspapers are published here. Population, in 1840, 300; in 1850, 5,111; in 1860, 7,600. The Racine College buildings are located in a delightful grove, overlook- ing a lake front of uncommon beauty. The college was founded by the citi 33i WISCONSIN. zens of Racine, under the patronage of the Protestant Episcopal Diocese of Wisconsin, at the instance of the Rt. Rev. Jackson Kemper, D.D. The site on which the college stands, comprising ten acres of valuable land, was given by Charles S. and Truman (1. Wright. The college was incorporated in 1852. The first Episcopal clergyman who preached in Racine was Rev. Lemuel B. Hull, of Milwaukie, in the spring of 1840. Northern view of Racine. The abovp shows the appearance of the contra! part of Racine, as entered from the west. The swing bridge over Root River is in the central part. The eastern terminus of the Racine and Mississippi Rail- road appears on the left. The lake is a few rods beyond the buildings in the distance. In 1834, Anloine Ouilmette came, with his Indian family, from Grosse Point, and located hitnself one mile from Racine. In November, of the same year, the east fractional half of section 9, was claimed by Capt. Knapp, of Racine. Gr. S. Hubbard, of Chicago, and J. A. Barker, of Buffalo, surveyed and laid out lots in 1836. The Root River postoffice was established in ihe same year, but discontinued in May, and the Racine postoffice established, Dr. B. B. Carey postmaster. The first regular inhabitants located themselves near the mouth of the river. The first house of worship was erected by the Presbyterians, on Wisconsin -street, and in a building lately used as a school house. The Rev. Mr. Foot was the first minister. The first school is be- lieved to have been at the foot of Main-street, near the river. Kenosha, the county seat of Kenosha, the most southern lake port of Wisconsin, is on the W. shore of Lake Michigan, 10 miles S. of Racine. It has a good harbor and piers. It commands the trade of one of the finest farming districts of the west. Two small creeks empty into the lake, one above, the other below the port. Population is about 4,000. Kenosha was known at first by the name of Pike River. In 1841, it was incorporated a village by the name of Southport; when incorporated a city, in 1850, it received the name of Keiiosha, the Indian word for Pike. In Feb., 1835, a company was organized in Hannibal, Oswego county, N. Y., under the name of the "Western Emigration Society," for the purpose of procuring a town site and effecting a settlement on the new lands of the west. An ex- WISCONSIN. 335 ploring committee being appointed, they proceeded to the west, and on the 6th of June arrived at Pike Creek, where they selected a site for settlement. As soon as the news of the selection reached Oswego county, about fifteen families, mostly from the town of Hannibal, came on during the summer and fall of 1835. " Eight families, members of the company, settled at Pike Creek, viz: David Doolittle, Waters Towslee, I. G. Wilson, Hudson Bacon, David Crossit, Amos Grattan, Samuel Resique, and Michael Van De Bogart. These, with the members of their households, thirty-two persons in all, com- prised the population of Pike Creek during the first winter of its settlement. Their habitations were rude shanties, built of logs and covered with bark. N. R. Allen and John Bullen erected a frame building in the fall of 1835, being the first frame building in the place ; this building, however, was not completed until the following year; it was located on the lake shore, near the south pier of the harbor." JancsviUe, capital of Rock county, is on both sides of Rock Rivdr, 45 miles S.E. of Madison, at the intersection of the Milwaukie and Mississippi with the Fond du Lac and Rock River Railroad. It is one of the most im- portant cities in the state, and is built principally on a level plain between the river and the bluffs, which are about 100 feet high. It has several large mills, for which the falls of the river at this point afford excellent sites. It is the center of an active and increasing trade. It was settled about the year 1836, and incorporated a city in 1853. It has 8 churches, the State Institu- tion for the Blind, and, in 1860, 7,500 inhabitants. , Beloit, a few miles below Janesville, in Rock county, on the railroad from Chicago to Madison, near the Illinois state line, is also on Rock River, which affords power for manufactories and mills of every description. The town was incorporated in 1845, and is adorned with fine churches and dwellings, spacious streets, and is the seat of that well known and popular institution, Beloit College. Population about 5,000. Mineral Point, the capital of Iowa county, is 47 miles W. S.W. of Madi- son, and 40 from Galena, Illinois. It stands on a point of land between two small streams, and is in the heart of the rich lead region. Immense quan- tities of lead are exported from this place, which is a point of active busi- ness, and has about 3,000 inhabitants. The following places in this section, are also connected with mining operations : Dodgeville, Platteville, Hazel Green. Lancaster, Highland, Mifflin and Potosi. The last named, Potosi, is on Grant River, near its mouth, 15 miles above Dubuque, and is the princi- pal mineral depot of Wisconsin, large quantities of lead being shipped from- here in steamboats. Cassville, 28 miles above Dubuque, on the Mississippi, is another important shipping point for lead. This whole region is rich in lead, and numerous smelting furnaces are in operation. Many lodes of mineral have been worked that have produced $100,000 clear of all expenses. The price of mineral in 1838 averaged about $30 per 1,000 Ibs. It has been sold as high as $40, and as low as $6. These fluctuations are not frequent, and a fair estimate may be made that mineral will not, for any length of time, be less than $25. The great lead region of the north-west lies principally in this state, in- cluding, in Wisconsin, 62 townships of its south-western corner, about 10 in the north-western corner of Illinois, and about 8 in Iowa. Dr. Owen, in his Report of the Geology of Wisconsin, says: " This lead region is, in general, well watered ; namely, by the Pekatonica, Apple, Fever, Platto and Grand Rivers, the head-waters of the Blue River and Wi j^ar 336 WISCONSIN. Creek: all these streams being tributaries of the Mississippi. The northern boun- dary of the Wisconsin lead region is nearly coincident with the southern boundary line of the blue limestone, where it fairly emerges to the surface. No discoveries of any importance have been made after reaching that formation ; and when a mine is sunk through the cliff limestone to the blue limestone beneath, the lodes of lead shrink into insignificance, and no longer return to the miner a profitable reward for his labor. All the valuable deposits of lead ore, which have as yet been discovered, occur either in fissures or rents in the cliff rock, or else are found imbedded in the recent deposits which overlie these rocks. These fissures vary in thickness from a wafer to even fifty feet ; and many of them extend to a very great, and at present un- known depth. Upon the whole, a review of the resources and Ccipabilities of this lead region, taken in connection with its statistics (in so far as it was possible to collect these), induces me to say, with confidence, that ten thousand miners could find profitable employment within its confines. If we suppose each of these to raise daily one hundred and fifty pounds of ore, during six months of each year only 4 they would produce annually upward of one hundred and fifty millions pounds of lead more than is now furnished by the entire mines of Europe, those of Great Britain included. This estimate, founded upon reasonable data, presents in a striking point of view, the intrinsic value and commercial importance of the country upon which I am reporting emphatically the lead region of northern America. It is, so far as my reading or experience extends, decidedly the richest in the known world." In the Reports of the State Historical Society, M. Stephen Taylor has given some interesting items upon the origin of lead mining by the first set- tlerg of the country, with a sketch of the state of society among the early miners. Says he : "For some time prior to the settlement of the lead mines, the miners, under the regulations of the war department, were licensed to explore and occupy the min- eral lands in that region, though in consequence of the hostility of the Indians to the explorations and encroachments of the whites, they seldom ventured far be- yond that protection which numerical strength and the defensive organizations near Galena secured. It was in the autumn of 1827, upon the cessation of the Winnebago disturbances, that the more daring and enterprising, prompted by the hope of discovering vast mineral treasures, the existence of which over a wide extent of territory, the many flattering accounts had so truthfully pictured, banded together in well armed squads, overrun the country prospecting in all directions. They were usually, in those times, governed by certain surface indications, the most infallible of which were the old Indian diggings, which were found in almost every direction, and their locations were marked by the many small aspen groves or patches indigenous to the upturned clay of the prairies in the lead region. By the rude and super- ficial mode of excavation by the red men, much mineral remained in the diggings, as well as among the rubbish; mining in these old burrows, therefore, not only at once justified the labor, but frequently led to the discovery of productive mines. 'Gravel mineral,' carbonized so as to be scarcely distinguished from water-worn pebbles, and occasionally lumps weighing several pounds, were exciting evidences of the existence of larger bodies upon the highlands in the vicinity. The amorpha canescens, or 'masonic weed,' peculiar to the whole country, when found in a clus- ter of rank growth, also attracted the attention of the Indian as well as the more experienced miner, as it was supposed to indicate great depth of clay or the exist- ence of crevices in the rock beneath. By such means were the mineral resources of Wisconsin explored and developed, and thus was the manner of the discovery of the productive mines at Mineral Point a piece of land elevated about two hundred feet, narrowing and descending to a point, situated in the midst of a val- ley, as it were a ravine bounding the same both eastward and westward, through which tributaries of the Pokatonica River flow, uniting in a wider valley to the southward. It was upon this point that the 'leads were struck,' the fame of which spread, and so quickly became the center of attraction, the miners flocking to them WISCONSIN. 337 from every quarter. Tt was customary, upon the discovery of new diggings, to dis- tinguish them by some appellation, so this locality, on account of its peculiar posi- tion and shape, was formerly called 'Mineral Point,' and hence the name of the present village, the nucleus of which was formed by the erection of a few log cabins, and huts built with square cut sods, covered in with poles, prairie grass and earth. These very comfortable though temporary shelters were located in the vicinity of the intersection of what are now called Commerce and High-streets, at the margin of the westerly ravine, and in view from the diggings on the point. Females, in consequence of the dangers and privations of those primitive times, were as rare in the diggings as snakes upon the Emerald Isle, consequently the bachelor miner, from necessity performed the domestic duties of cook and washer- man, and the preparation of meals was indicated by appending a rag to an upright pole, which, fluttering in the breeze, telegraphically conveyed the glad tidings to his hungered brethren upon the hill. Hence, this circumstance, at a very early date, gave the provincial sobriquet of 'Shake Rag,' or 'Shake Rag under the Hill' which that part of the now flourishing village of Mineral Point, lying under the hill, hns acquired, and which in all probability it will ever retain. So much for the origin of Mineral Point. I will now venture a few remarks regarding the manners and customs of its inhabitants in days of yore. The continued prosperity of the mines, in a comparatively brief period, increased the population of the village to several hundred, comprised, % as is usual in mineral regions, of representatives from every clime and country, and in such conglomera- tion, it is fair to presume, of every stripe of character. This increase of popula- tion, including many of those expert in the 'profession,' warranted the establish- ment of numerous gambling saloons, groceries a refined name for groggeries and other like place* of dissipation and amusement, where the unwary, and those flushed with success in digging, could be 'taken in and done for,' or avail them- selves of opportunities voluntarily to dispose of their accumulated means, either in drowning their sorrows in the bowl, or 'fighting the tiger' in his den. Notwithstanding such were the practices almost universally, more or less, in- dulged in by the denizens, yet the protracted winters in this then secluded, uncul- tivated and sparsely populated country, and, for that reason, the absence of those more reputable enjoyments which mellow and refine sociality in other regions, in a measuro justified, a moderate participation in this mode of driving dull cares away. These congenial customs, peculiarly western, were as firmly based as the laws which governed the Medes and Persians, and wo to those, from lands of steadier habits, who would endeavor to introduce innovations adverse to the estab- lished policy of those days ! Hence the propriety and necessity of harmonizing with, and following in the trail of the popular will. But such, T am happy in the conviction, is not nov? the case virtue, in 'the progress of events, has naturally succeeded profligacy, and Mineral Point, freed from contamination, stands re- deemed of her former errors."* La Crosse, the capital of La Crosse county, is beautifully situated on the Mississippi, at the mouth of La Crosse River, 200 miles N.W. of Milwaukie by railroad, and 303 miles below St. Paul, by the river. It contains a large * "Among the most distinguished of the earliest pioneers of Mineral Point, are Col. Robt. C. Hoard, Col. Robert S. Black (now of Dodgeville), Col. Henry M. Billings, Col. Dnniel M. Parkison, Col. Abner Nichols, Francis Vivian, Parley Eaton, Levi Sterling, Edward Beouehnrd, Josinh Tynck, James James, Samuel Thomas, Mrs. Hood, Amzi W. Comfort, 0. P. Williams (now of Portage City), M. V. B. Burris, Milton Bevans, Peter Hartman. John F. O'Neill, William Sublett, John Phillip.', John Milton, George Cubbage, James Hitchins, John Caserly, Edward Coode, and William Tregay. And the following, who have since paid the debt of nature, viz: Col. John D. Ansley, Col. John McNair, Robert Dougherty, Capt. William Henry, Stephen Terrill, Mark Terri'll, Dr. Edward McSherry, Dr. Richard G. Ridgley, Nicholas Uren, Richard Martin, James S. Bowden, John Hood, Lord Blanoy. Joseph Sylvester, Matthew G. Fitch, Thomas McKnight, Stephen B. Thrasher, Robert W. Gray, Joseph Morrison, James Hugo, Hugh R. Hunter, Edward Jaiies (late U. S. Marshal). William Prideaux, Joseph James, Benjamin Salter, and " Cadwallader, the keg-maker." 22 338 WISCONSIN. number of saw mills, and considerable quantities of pine lumber are manu factured. It is a place of rapid increase and prosperity, and its merchants transact a heavy business with the adjacent country, which is rapidly filling up. Population, in 1853, 300; and in 1860, about 4,000. The place possesses peculiar advantages from being the terminus of the Milwaukie and La Crosse Railroad. "It is probably the most northerly east and west road that will be built in the state for many years, and has, conse- quently, as tributaries, all northern Wisconsin, west of Lake Winnebago, with the exception of a narrow strip on the borders of Lake Superior, and the greater portion of Minnesota, extending far away to the Red River of the North, the Sascatchawine, and, ultimately, the North Pacific Railroad." About 60 miles above La Crosse is that beautiful expansion of the Mississippi, known to all travelers as Lake Pepin. For about 25 miles the river is expanded to a width of from two to three miles, with majestic bluffs of lime- stone on each shore. On the Wis- consin shore, rising about two hun- dred feet above the water, is the noted Maiden's Rock, the scene of the Indian legend of Winona, the daughter of an Indian chief. She was betrothed by her father to a favorite warrior; but her af- fections were fixed on one younger though not less brave. On the day appointed for her wedding, she THK MAID'. BOCK, wandered from the gay assemblage under pretense ot searching tor On Lake Pepin, an expansion of the Mississippi. some berries that grew in profu- sion on this bluff, when her com- panions, to their surprise, heard from her lips a low, plaintive sound : it was the death song, and in a moment more, ere they could interfere, she cast herself head- long from the rock, and was buried in the deep, cold waters below. Prescott and Hudson are two flourishing towns in this part of the state. The first is at the junction of the St. Croix River, with the Mississippi the last on that expansion of the St. Croix, called Lake St. Croix. The St. Croix River which separates Wisconsin from Minnesota, is cele- brated for its pineries, the value of its trade in lumber exceeding three mil- lions of dollars per annum. "The lumbermen of the St. Croix, during the sessions of the Wisconsin and Minnesota legislatures of 1850-1, procured the incorporation of the 'St. Croix Boom Company,' with a capital of $10,000. This work was considered absolutely necessary, to facilitate the business of driving, assorting, and rafting logs. The stock was speedily taken ; and by the following season the boom was built and rendy for service. The work is substantial and permanent Piers of immense size are sunk at proper distances, from the Minnesota shore to the foot of a large island near the center of the stream, and again from the head of the island to the Wisconsin shore. The boom timbers are hung from pier to pier, and the whole river is entirely commanded, with no possibility of scarcely a single log escaping. The charter of the company compels them, however, to give free passngp to all boats, rafts, etc., ascending or descending the river. This duty is rather difficult to perform at certain times, particularly when the logs are running into the boom briskly, and hands are not to be had to raft and run them out: sometimes a barrier of three or four miles intervene, and thus temporarily closes navigation. With a full complement of men the boom can always be kept clear at the point where it crosses the main channel of the river. The importance of the lumber business of the St. Croix River would hardly be estimated by a stranger. Large quantities are WISCONSIN. 339 floated down the Mississippi to St. Louis. The business of getting out the timber is carried on in the winter, and affords employment to large numbers of young men. Fond du Lac, the capital of Fond du Lac county, is 72 miles N.N.W. of Milwaukie, with which it has railroad connections. It stands at the southern extremity of Lake Winnebago, the largest of the inland lakes of the state, being about 30 miles long and 10 broad, forming a link in the chain of nav- igable waters which connect the Great Lakes with the Mississippi. The Portage Canal, on this water way, between the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, was opened in 1856, and steamers pass from the lake to the Wisconsin River. Anciently it was a French trading post, established here for the purpose of traffic with the Winnebagoes, who had a village where Taychudah now is, three miles east of the site of the place. The town has grown up within a very few years. Population 1860, 5,450. A traveler here in the fall of 1859, discourses thus agreeably upon the town and country: "I like the west, and especially Wisconsin. The country has captivated me the prairies, the pure air, clfar sky, fine farms, the perfectly rural air of the whole and the hospitality of the people. What splendid farming land around Fond du Lac how easy to till to a >ew England farmer; smooth fields without a rock, scarce a stone, that when first cultivated yield 40 bushels of wheat to the acre, and afterward 18 or '20; garden ground unequaled for vegetables, and a good market in the city for all that is for sale. Corn planted in June ripens before the last of August. Apples, pears, grapes and plums thrive well, and all the small fruits yield abundantly. Here is a wild plum of fine flavor, and much used to make a sauce for meat, with spices added. All the fruit trees 1 saw looked healthy and vigorous, and free from the ravages of insects. The winters are longer than ours, and the thermometer indicates greater cold, but residents say the cold is not so severe as at the east, from the absence of wind. Long storms are very uncommon, and a clear air and bright sun belong to their winter, and the dry, pure atmosphere render this climate advantageous to those afflicted with pulmonary complaints. It seemed to me especially good for nervous people and those troubled with neuralgic pains. Fever and ague are not known here; accounts' of its good effects in consumptive cases are authenticated. Fond du Lac, the city of fountains, named from the Artesian wells which supply it with water, bears the promise of a great city. The site is part prairie and part woodland, a river dividing it. Twelve years ago it had but one chimney, and the pockets of most of its early settlers, were as deficient in means as the houses of this most necessary appurtenance; now it has a population of thousands, churches of various kinds, some fine stores, and one especially fine block, containing a hall which is said to be the handsomest in the west, and capable of accommodating three thousand people. The hall has a center dome of stained glass, and the effect is very pleasing. From the top of the building an incomparable view is to be had of the city, lake, prairie, river and woods. The foreign element here is German, and an intelligent class of people, obedient to law, and comprehending the oppor- tunities a free country offers to them and their children. The people look healthy and happy, and there is an appearance of comfort and thrift about them and their dwellings. There are no showy houses, but neat, well-arranged buildings, with yards, in which stand the forest trees found there, and enlivened by flowers and shrubs. The settlers have shown a taste and respect for the forest trees leaving them unmolested, and clumps of ouks and hickories in the cultivated fields sire pleasant to look upon, and their shade must delight the cattle in summer. The beauty of this country is indescribable, the whole having the appearance of a well cared for park. A ridge of limestone runs from Green Bay to the end of Lake Michigan, numer- ous streams run from this, and vast quantities of limestone slabs ready for use can be taken from the quarries and furnished to the city at two cents a square foot 340 WISCONSIN. Gravel is abundant and accessible, and the city is removing the planks from the road, laying on gravel, and will in time have fine sidewalks and good roads. On this ridge are some fine farms, and the aspect of the country reminds me of Dutchess county, New York. From the high peaks, views of the city, prairie and lake are to be had, and in the clear air everything is so distinct that the eye seeks in vain for the horizon." Oshkosh, is named from an Indian chief of the Menomonee tribe, the word signifying "brave." It is a thriving city, with great facilities for trade, where but a few years since all was a dense wilderness. It stands on the western bank of Lake Winnebago, at the mouth of the Fox River, and has railroad connections with the east, west and south. The city con- tains 6 churches, 4 newspapers, a large number of grist and other mills, manufactures annually about 30 millions of feet of lumber, and has about 6,000 inhabitants. When the Fox River Improvement is completed, this city will be on the direct line of steamboat navigation between Lake Michigan and the Missis- sippi. This enterprise is described as follows in Ritchie's work on the state: " The Fox River, or, as it is called by the Indians, Neenah, is one of the most important rivers in the state. It rises in Marquette c%unty, and flows nearly south- west, toward the Wisconsin ; when within one and a half miles of that river, it changes its direction to the north; after flowing a few miles, it passes through Lake Winnebago, and falls into Green Bay. Its whole length is estimated at two hun- dred miles. The whole length of canal necessary to secure a steamboat communication from Green Bay to Lake Winnebago, is about five miles. It is 100 feet wide on the bot- tom, and 120 at the top (two feet wider than the famous Welland Canal). The locks are 40 feet wide, by 160 long, and built in the most permanent manner, of solid stone masonry, and in a style that will not suffer in comparison with any similar work in the eastern states. It is calculated that with the improved manner of working these locks, a steamer can pass each in the short space of three minutes. This will afford a rapid transit for the vast amount of freight that must and will geek an outlet through this thoroughfare to an eastern market The capacity of the river for all purposes of navigation is undoubted ; at no season of the year can there be any failure of water. Twelve miles above Oshkosh, westward, is the mouth of the Wolf River, a trib- utary of the Fox, and navigable for steamers for one hundred and fifty miles. Forty miles above the mouth of Wolf River is the town of Berlin; sixty miles further is Portage City and the town of Fort Winnebago ; above which places, for sixty miles, and below for one hundred and thirty-five miles, the Wisconsin is now navigable for steamers. Through these, a ready communication will be secured with the Mississippi and its tributaries; and it is confidently calculated that, at no distant day, steam tugs, with between 200 and 500 tuns burden in tow, each, from St Peter r s River, from St. Paul, and other places in that direction, will land their cargoes at Green Bay, to be shipped to an eastern market. The objection to be urged to this route, from so remote a locality, is, that it will take too long to make the transit To this we have to reply, that it is estimated by those who know better than we, that this great distance can and will be overcome by just these kinds of crafts in from four to six days, and by passenger boats in much less time. This improvement will open about 1,000 miles to steam navigation, between Lake Michigan and the Mis sissippi River, including the navigable streams in the interior of northern Wiscon sin, Iowa and Minnesota. This stupendous work, when completed, will do far more for the prosperity and advancement of the vast regions, opened to the ad- vantages of connection with the Atlantic market, than any other improvement con- templated." PORTAGE CITY is at the head of navigation on the Wisconsin River, about 200 miles from its mouth, and on the ship canal one and a half miles long, WISCONSIN. 341 connecting it with the Fox or Neenah River. It is a flourishing town, and is a great depot for pine lumber. By means of the Wisconsin and Missis- sippi Rivers, there is now uninterrupted steamboat navigation between this place and New Orleans. The Wisconsin is the largest river that intersects the state. Its whole* length is estimated at 600 miles, and in its upper portion it is bordered by immense forests of pine. Fort Winnebago, which stood on or near the site of Portage City, was commenced in 1828. under the superintendence of Major Twiggs and Captain Har- ney. This Twiggs was the Gen. David Twiggs who reaped FUJIT W..NKKBAGO IN 1831. eternal ^i'&my by his base sur- render of the American army, in Texas, at the beginning of the Rebellion. It was an important post at an early day, affording protection to emigrants. Another officer, here at that period, was a young lieutenant, Jefferson Davis of Mississippi, who after- ward became thafcpresident of the so-called Confederate States of America. Mrs. John H. Kinzie, in " Wan-bun, the 'Early Day' in tlic North-west," gives a graphic narrative of her experiences at Fort AVinnebago, where she passed the winter of 1830-31, the first months of her wedded life. This winter was one of unusual severity, and in some parts of the country, par- ticularly the lead mining district, the snow was of an unheard of depth five or six feet upon a level. Toward the beginning of March the weather moderated, and Mrs. Kinzie prepared to make a journey on horseback to Chicago with her husband. This was then through a wilderness country, and the undertaking so perilous that the commandant, Major Twiggs, endeavored to dissuade them from it: but the brave-hearted, high spirited young woman remained resolute. The story of their experience by the way, we abridge from Mrs. Kinzie's narrative. The route selected was south by Dixon's, then called Ogie's Ferry, where was to be found the only means of crossing the broad and rapid stream of Rock River ; and it was calculated that the entire distance would be traveled over in six days : The morning of the 8th of March, having taken a tender leave of their friends, they mounted and were reudy for the journey. The party consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Kinzie and two French Canadians, Pierre Roy and Plante, the latter to act as a guide, on the assurance that he " knew every mile of the way, from the Portage to Ogie's Ferry, and from Ogie's Ferry to Chicago. Some of the young officers escorted them as far as Duck Creek, four miles dis- tant. In attempting to cross this stream in a canoe, a couple of favorite grey- hounds sprang in upon Mrs. Kinzie, and the canoe balanced a moment then yielded and quick as thought, dogs and lady were in deepest of water. That even- ing the party camped out on the edge of the timber, under the shelter of a tent; but so intense was the cold that, although Mrs. Kinzae's riding habit was placed to dry over against the log on which their fire was made, it was in a few minutes frozen so stiff as to stand upright, giving " the appearance of a dress out of which a lady had vanished in some unaccountable manner." Says Mrs. Kinzie: "At break of day we are aroused by the shout of ' the bourgeois,' 'How! how! how!' 342 WISCONSIN. All start from their slumbers. The fire which has been occasionally replenished through the night, is soon kindled into a flame. The horses are caught and saddled while a breakfast is preparing the tent is struck the pack-horse loaded ' tout demanche,' as the Canadian says. Our journey this day led us past the first of the Four Lakes. Scattered along its banks was an encampment of Winnebagoes. How beautiful the encampment looked in the morning sun! The matted lodges, with the blue smoke curling from their tops the trees and bushes powdered with a light snow which had fallen through the night the lake, shining and sparkling, almost at our feet even the Indians, in their peculiar costume, adding to the picturesque ! Our road, after leaving the lake, lay over a ' rolling prairie,' now bare and deso- late enough. The hollows were filled with snow, which, bqing partly thawed, fur- nished an uncertain footing for the horses, and I could not but join in the ringing laughter of our Frenchmen, as occasionally Brunet and Souris, the two ponies, would flounder, almost imbedded, through the yielding mass. It was about the middle of the afternoon when we reached the 'Blue Mound. 1 I rejoiced much to have got so far, for I was sadly fatigued, and every mile now seemed two to me. It was my first journey on horseback, and I had not yet become inured to the ex- ercise. When we reached Morrison's I was so much exhausted that, as my hus- band attempted to lift me from the saddle, I fell into his arms. ' This will never do,' said he. ' To-morrow we must turn our faces toward Fort Winnebago again.' The door opened hospitably to receive us. We were welcomed by a lady with a most sweet, benignant countenance, and by her companion, some years younger. The first was Mra. Morrison the other, Miss Elizabeth Dodgj daughter of Gen. Dodge. My husband laid me upon a small bed, in the room where the ladies had been sitting at work. They took off my bonnet and riding-dress, chafed my hands, and prepared me some warm wine and water, by which 1 was soon revived. A half hour's repose so refreshed me that I was able to converse with the ladies, and to relieve my husband's mind of all anxiety on my account. Tea was announced soon after, and we repaired to an adjoining building, for Morrison's, like the establish- ment of all settlers of that period, consisted of a group of detached log-houses or cabins, each containing one or at most two apartments. The table groaned with good cheer, and brought to mind some that I had seen among the old-fashioned Dutch residents on the banks of the Hudson. I had recovered my spirits, and we were quite a cheerful party. Mrs. Morrison told us that during the first eighteen months she passed in this country, she did not speak with a white woman, the only society she had being that of her husband and two black servant women. Tho next morning, after a cheerful breakfast, at which we were joined by the Rev. Mr. Kent, of Galena, we prepared for our journey. I had reconciled my hus- band to continuing our route toward Chicago, by assuring him that I felt as fresh and bright as when I first set out from home. We had not proceeded many miles on our journey, however, before we discovered that Monsieur Plante was profoundly ignorant of the country, so that Mr. Kinzie was obliged to take the lead himself, and make his way as he was best .able, accord- ing to the directions he had received. We traveled the live-long day, barely making a halt at noon to bait our horses, and refresh ourselves with a luncheon. The ride was as gloomy and desolate as could well bo imagined. A rolling prairie, unvaried by forest or stream hillock rising after hillock, at every ascent of which we vainly hoped to see a distant fringe of ' timber.' But the same cheerless, unbounded pros- pect everywhere met the eye, diversified only here and there by the oblong open- ings, like gigantic graves, which marked an unsuccessful search for indications of a lead mine. Just before sunset we crossed, with considerable difficulty, a muddy stream, which was bordered by a scanty belt of trees, making a tolerable encamping-ground ; and of this we gladly availed ourselves, although we knew not whether it was near or remote from the place we were in search of. We had ridden at least fifty miles since leaving 'Morrison's,' yet I was sensible of very little fatigue; but there was a vague feeling of discomfort at the idea of WISCONSIN. 343 being lost in this wild, cold region, altogether different from anything I had ever before experienced. The exertions of the men soon made our 'camp' comfortable, notwithstanding, the difficulty of driving the tent-pins into the frozen ground, and the want of trees sufficiently large to make a rousing fire. The wind, which at bed time was suf- ficiently high to be uncomfortable, increased during the night. It snowed heavily and we were every moment in dread that the tent would be carried away; but the matter was settled in the midst by the snapping of the poles, and the falling of the whole, with its superincumbent weight of snow, in a mass upon us. The next morning the horses were once more saddled for our journey. The prospect was not an encouraging one. Around us was an unbroken sheet of snow. We had no compass, and the air was so obscured by the driving sleet, that it was often impossible to tell in what direction the sun was. 1 tied my husband's silk pocket handkerchief over my veil, to protect my face from the wind and icy parti- cles with which the air was filled, and which cut like a razor; but although shielded in every way that circumstances rendered possible, I suffered intensely from the cold. We pursued our way, mile after mile, entering every point of woods, in hopes of meeting with, at least, some Indian wigwam, at which we could gain in- telligence. Every ,spot was solitary and deserted, not even the trace of a recent fire, to cheer us with the hope of human beings within miles of us. Suddenly, a shout from the foremost of the party made each heart bound with joy. ' Une cloture! tine cloture!' (a fence, a fence.) It was almost like life to the dead. We spurred on. and indeed perceived a few straggling rails crowning a rising ground at no great distance. Ivever did music sound so sweet as the crowing of a cock which at this moment saluted our ears. Following the course of the inclosure down the opposite slope, we came upon a group of log-cabins, low, shabby, and unpromising in their appearance, but a most welcome shelter from the pelting storm. 'Whose cabins are these?' asked Mr. Kinzie of a man who was cutting wood at the door of one. 'Hamilton's,' was the reply; and he stepped forward at once to assist us to alight, hospitality being a matter of course in these wild regions. We were shown into the most comfortable looking of the buildings. A large fire was burning in the clay chimney, and the room was of a genial warmth, not- withstanding the apertures, many inches in width, beside the doors and windows. A woman in a tidy calico dress, and shabby black silk cap, trimmed with still shabbier lace, rose from her seat beside a sort of bread-trough, which fulfilled the office of cradle to a fine, fat baby. .< Before dinner Mr. Hamilton came in and was introduced to me, and was as agreeable and polite as the son of Alexander Hamilton would naturally be. The housekeeper, who was the wife of one of the miners, prepared us a plain comfort able dinner. The blowing of a horn was the signal for the entrance of ten or twelve miners, who took their places below us at the table. They were the rough- est looking set of men 1 ever beheld, and their language was as uncouth as their persons. They wore hunting shirts, trowsers, and moccasins of deerskin, the for- mer being ornamented at the seams with a fringe of the same, while a colored belt around the waist, in which was stuck a large hunting-knife, gave each the appear- ance of a brigand. Mr. Hamilton passed most of the afternoon with us, for the storm raged so with- out that to proceed on our journey was out of the question. He gave us many pleasant anecdotes and reminiscences of his early life in New York, and of his ad- ventures since he had come to the western wilderness. When obliged to leave us for a while, he furnished us with some books to entertain us, the most interesting of which was the biography of his father. The next day's sun rose clear and bright. Refreshed and invigorated, we looked forward with pleasure to a recommencement of our journey, confident of meeting no more mishaps by the way. Mr. Hamilton kindly offered to accompany us to his next neighbor's, the trifling distance of twenty-five miles. The miner who owned the wife and baby, and who, consequently, was somewhat more humanized than his comrades, in taking leave of us ' wished us well out of the country, and that we might never have occasion to return to it! .1 pity a body,' said he, 'when I 344 WISCONSIN. see them making such an awful mistake as to come out this way, for comfort never touched this western country.' There was no halting upon the route, and as we kept the same pace until three o'clock in the afternoon, it was beyond a question that when we reached 'Keilogg's,' we had traveled at least thirty miles. 'Keilogg's ' was a comfortable mansion, just within the verge of a pleasant 'grove of timber,' as a small forest is called by west- ern travelers. We found Mrs. Kellogg a very respectable looking matron, who soon informed us she was from the city of New York She appeared proud and de- lighted to entertain Mr. Hamilton, for whose family, she took occasion to tell us, she had, in former days, been in the habit of doing needle-work. We had intended to go to Dixon's the same afternoon, but the snow beginning again to fall, obliged us to content ourselves where we were. In the meantime, finding we were jour- neying to Chicago, Mr. Kellogg came to the determination to accompany us, hav- ing, as he said some business to accomplish at that place. No great time was required for Mr. Keilogg's preparations. He would take, he said, only two days' provisions, for at his brother-in-law Dixon's we should get our supper and breakfast, and the route from there to Chicago could, he well knew, be accomplished in a day and a half. Although, according to this calculation, we had sufficient remaining of our stores to carry us to the end of our, journey, yet Mr. Kinzie took the precaution of begging Mrs. Kellogg to bake us another bag of bis- cuits, in case of accidents, and he likewise suggested to Mr. K. the prudence of furnishing himself with something more than his limited allowance; but the good man objected that he was unwilling to burden his horse more than was absolutely necessary. It will be seen that we had reason to rejoice in our own foresight It was late on the following day, when we took leave of our kind hostess. We journeyed pleasantly along through a country, beautiful in spite of its wintry ap- pearance. Just at sunset, we reached the dark, rapid waters of the Rock River. All being safely got across, a short walk brought us to the house of Mr. Dixon. We were ushered into Mrs. Dixon's sitting-room; and seated by a glowing fire, while Mrs. Dixon busied herself in preparing us a nice supper, I felt that the coin- fort overbalanced the inconvenience of such a journey. A most savory supper of ducks and venison, with their accompaniments, soon smoked upon the board, and we did ample justice to it Traveling is a great sharp- ener of the appetite, and so is cheerfulness, and the latter was increased by the encouraging account Mr. Dixon gave us of the remainder of the route yet before us. 'There is no difficulty,' said he, 'if you keep a little to the north, and strike the great Sank trail. If you get too far to the south, you will come upon the Win- nebago Swamp, and once in that, there is no telling when you will ever get out again. As for the distance, it is nothing at all to speak of The following morning, which was a bright and lovely one for that season of the year, we took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Dixon, in high spirits. We traveled for the first few miles along the beautiful, undulating banks of Rock River, always in an easterly direction, keeping the beaten path, or rather road, which led to Fort Clark or Peoria. The Sauk trail, we had been told, would cross this road, at the distance of about six miles. After having traveled, as we judged, fully that distance, we came upon a trail, bearing north-east, which we followed till it brought us to the great bend of the river with its bold rocky bluffs, when, convinced of our mistake, we struck off from the trail, in a direction as nearly east as possible. The weather had changed and become intensely cold, and we felt that the detention we had met with, even should we now be in the right road, was no trifling matter. But we were buoyed up by the hope that we were in the right path at last, and we jour- neyed on until night, when we reached a comfortable 'encampment,' in the edge of a grove near a small stream. We were roused at peep of day to make preparations for starting. We must find the Sauk trail this day at all hazards. What would become of us should we fail to do so ? It was a question no one liked to ask, and certainly one that none could have answered. On leaving our encampment, we found ourselves entering a marshy tract of country. Myriads of wild geese, brant, and ducks rose up screaming at our approach. The more distant lakes and ponds were black with them, but the shallow water through which wo attempted to make our way was WISCONSIN. 345 frozen by the severity of the night, to a thickness^not sufficient to bear the horses, but just such as to cut their feet and ankles at every step as they broke through it. Sometimes the difficulty of going forward was so great that we were obliged to re- trace our steps and make our way round the head of the marsh. This swampy region at length passed, we came upon more solid ground, chiefly the open prairie. But now a new trouble assailed -us. The weather had moderated, and a blinding snow storm came on. Without a trail that we could rely upon, and destitute of a compass, our only dependence had been the sun to point out our di- rection / but the atmosphere was now so obscure that it was impossible to tell in what quarter of the heavens he was. We pursued our way, however, and a devious one it must have been. After traveling in this way many miles, we came upon an Indian trail, deeply indented, running at right angles with the course we were pursuing. The snow had ceased, and the clouds becoming thinner, we were able to observe the direction of the sun, and to perceive that the trail ran north and south. What should we do? Was it safest to pursue our easterly course, or was it probable that by following this new path we should fall into the direct one we had been so long seeking? If we decided to take the trail, should we go north or south? Mr. Kinzie was for the latter. He was of opinion that we were still too far north. Finding himself in the minority, my husband yielded, and we turned our horses' heads north, much against his will. After proceeding a few miles, however, he took a sudden determination. 'You may go north, if you please,' said he, ' but I am convinced that the other course is right, and I shall face about fol- low who will.' So we wheeled round and rode south again, and many a long and weary mile did we travel. The road, which had continued many miles through the prairie, at length, in winding round a point of woods, brought us suddenly upon an Indian village. A shout of joy broke from the whole party, but no answering shout was returned not even a bark of friendly welcome as we galloped up to the wigwams. All was silent as the grave. We rode round and round, then dis- mounted and looked into several of the spacious huts. They had evidently been long deserted. Our disappointment may be better imagined than described. With heavy hearts we mounted and once more pursued our way, the snow again falling and adding to the discomforts of our position. At length we halted for the night. We had long been aware that our stock of provisions was insufficient for another day, and here we were nobody knew where in the midst of woods and prairies certainly far from any human habitation, with barely enough food for a slender evening's meal. The poor dogs came whining around us to beg their usual portion, but they were obliged to content themselves with a bare bone, and we retired to rest with the feeling that if not actually hungry then, we should certainly be so to-morrow. The morrow came. Plante and lioy had a bright fire and a nice pot of coffee for us. It was our only breakfast, for on shaking the bag and turning it inside out. we could make no more of our stock of bread than three crackers, which the rest of the party insisted I should put in my pocket for my dinner. We still had the trail to guide us, and we continued to follow it until about nine o'clock, when, in emerging from a wood, we came upon a broad and rapid river. A collection of Indian wigwams stood upon the opposite bank, and as the trail led directly to the water, it was fair to infer that the stream was fordable. We had no opportunity of testing it, however, for the banks were so lined with ice, which was piled up tier upon tier by the breaking-up of the previous week, that we tried in vain to find a path by which we could descend the bank to the water. The men shouted again and again in hopes some straggling inhabitant of the village might be at hand with his canoe. No answer was returned save by the echoes. What was to be done ? I looked at my husband and saw that care was on his brow, although he still continued to speak cheerfully. ' We will follow this cross-trail down the bank of the river,' said he. 'There must be Indians wintering near in some of these points of wood.' I must confess that I felt somewhat dismayed at our pros- pects, but I kept up a show of courage, and did not allow my despondency to be seen. All the party were dull and gloomy enough. We kept along the bank, which was considerably elevated above the water, and bordered at a little distance with a thick wood. All at once my horse, who was mor- 346 WISCONSIN. tally afraid of Indians, began to^jump and prance, snorting and pricking up his ears as if an enemy were at hand. 1 screamed with delight to my husband, who was at the head of the file, 'Oh John! John! there are Indians near look at Jerry ! ' At this instant a little Indian dog ran out from under the bushes by tho roadside, and began barking at us. Never were sounds more welcome. We rodo directly into the thicket, and descending into a little hollow, found two squaws crouching behind the bushes, trying to conceal themselves from our sight. They appeared greatly relieved when Mr. Kinzie addressed them in the Potto- watomie language. The squaw, in answer to Mr. K.'s inquiries, assured him that Chicago was ' close by-' 'That means,' said he, 'that it is not so far off as Canada. We must not be too sanguine.' The men sat about unpacking the horses, and I in the meantime was paddled across the river. The old woman immediately returned, leaving the younger one with me for company. 1 seated myself on the fallen trunk of a tree, in the midst of the snow, and looked across the dark waters. 1 am not ashamed to confess my weakness for the first time on my journey 1 shed tears. The poor little squaw looked into my face with a wondering and sympathizing expression. 'What would my friends at the east think,' said 1 to myself, 'if they could see me now ? What would poor old Mrs. Welsh say ? She who warned me that if I came away so far to the west, I should break my heart? Would she not rejoice to find how likely her prediction was to be fulfilled?' These thoughts roused me. I dried up my tears, and by the time my husband with his party, and all his horses and luggage, were across, I had recovered my cheerfulness, and was ready for fresh adventures. We followed the old squaw to her lodge, which was at no great distance in the woods. The master pf the lodge, who had gone out to shoot ducks, soon returned. He was a tall, finely formed man, with a cheerful, open countenance, and he lis- tened to what his wife in a quiet tone related to him, while he divested himself of his accoutrements in the most unembarrassed, well-bred manner imaginable. Soon my husband joined us. He had been engaged in attending to the comfort of his horses, and assisting his men in making their fire, and pitching their tent, which the rising storm made a matter of some difficulty. From the Indian he learned that we were in what was called ' the Big Woods,' or ' Piche's Grove,'* from a Frenchman of that name living not far from the spot that the river we had crossed was the Fox River that he could guide us to Piche's, from which the road was perfectly plain, or even into Chicago if we preferred but that we had better re- main encamped for that day, as there was a storm coming on, and in the mean time he would go and shoot some ducks for our dinner and supper. He was ac- cordingly furnished with powder and shot, and set off again for game without de lay. The tent being all in order, my husband came for me, and we took leave of our friends in the wigwam with grateful hearts. The storm was raging without The trees were bending and cracking around us, and the air was completely filled with the wild-fowl screaming and quacking as they made their way southward before the blast Our tent was among the trees not far from the river. My husband took me to the bant to look for a moment at what we had escaped. The wind waa sweeping down from the north in a perfect hurricane. The water was filled with masses of snow and ice, dancing along upon the torrent, over which were hurry ing thousands of wild-fowl, making the woods resound to their deafening clamor. Had we been one hour later, we could not possibly have crossed the stream, and there seems to have been nothing for us but to have remained and starved in the wilderness. Could we be sufficiently grateful to that kind Providence that had brought us safely through such dangers ? The storm raged with tenfold violence during the night. We were continually * Probably at what is now Oswego. The name of a portion of the wood is since corrupted into Specie' ' Grove. WISCONSIN. 347 startled by the crashing of the falling trees around us, and who could tell but that the next would be upon us ? Spite of our fatigue, we passed an almost sleepless night. When we arose in the morning, we were made fully alive to the perils by which we had been surrounded. At least fifty trees, the giants of the forest, lay prostrate within view of the tent. When we had taken our scanty breakfast, and were mounted and ready for departure, it was with difficulty we could thread our way, so completely was it obstructed by the fallen trunks. Our Indian guide had joined us at an early hour, and after conducting us care- fully out of the wood, about nine o'clock brought us to Piche's, a log-cabin on a rising ground, looking off over the broad prairie to the east. We had hoped to get some refreshment here, Piche being an old acquaintance of some of the party; but alas ! the master was from home. We found his cabin occupied by Indians and travelers the latter few, the former numerous. There was no temptation to a halt, except that of warming ourselves at a bright fire that was burning in the clay chimney. A man in Quaker costume stepped for- ward to answer our inquiries, and offered to become our escort to Chicago, to which place he was bound so we dismissed our Indian friend, with a satisfactory remu- neration for all the trouble he had so kindly taken for us. The weather was intensely cold. The wind, sweeping over the wide prairie, with nothing to break its force, chilled our very hearts. I beat my feet against the sad- dle to restore the circulation, when they became benumbed with cold, until they became so bruised I could beat them no longer. Not a house or wigwam, not even a clump of trees as a shelter, offered itself for many a weary mile. At length we reached the west fork of the Du Page. It was frozen, but not sufficiently so to bear the horses. Our only resource was to cut a way for them through the ice. It was a work of time, for the ice had frozen to several inches in thickness, during the last bitter night. Plante went first with an axe, and cut as far as he could reach, then mounted one of the hardy little ponies, and with some difficulty broke the ice before him, until he had opened a passage to the opposite shore. How the poor animals shivered as they were reined in among the floating ice ! And we, who sat waiting in the piercing wind, were not much better. We were all across at last, and spurred on our horses, until we reached Hawley's* a large, commodious dwelling, near the east fork of the river. The good woman welcomed us kindly, and soon made us warm and comfortable. We felt as if we were in a civilized land once more. We found, upon inquiry, that we could, by pushing on, reach Lawton's, on the Aux Plaines, that night we should then be within twelve miles of Chicago. Of course we made no unneces- sary delay, but set off as soon after dinner as possible. The crossing of the east fork of the Du Page was more perilous than the former one had been. It was almost dark when we reached Lawton's. The Aux Plainest was frozen, and the house was on the other side. By loud shouting, we brought out a man from the building, and he succeeded in cutting the ice, and bringing a canoe over to us; but not until it had become difficult to distinguish objects in the darkness. A very comfortable house was Lawton's, after we did reach it carpeted, and with a warm stove in fact, quite in civilized style. Mrs. Lawton was a young woman, and not ill-looking. She complained bitterly of the loneliness of her condition, and having been 'brought out there into the woods; which was a thing she had not expected, when she came from the east.' We could hardly realize, on rising the following morning, that only twelve miles of prairie intervened between us and Chicago le Desire, as I could not but name it. Soon the distance was traversed, and we were in the arms of our dear, kind friends. A messenger was dispatched to ' the garrison ' for the remaining mem- bers of the family, and for that day at least, I was the wonder and admiration of the whole circle, ' for the dangers 1 had seen.' " * It was near this spot that the brother of Mr. Hawley, a Methodist preacher, was killed by the Sauks, in 1832, after having been tortured by them with the most wanton barbarity. f Riviere Aux Plaines was the original French designation, now changed to Desplainct, pronounced as in English. 348 WISCONSIN, North of Milwaukee, on the shores of Lake Michigan, are several thriving city-like towns, containing each several thousand inhabitants. They are Ozankee, Sheboygan, Manitowoc, and Two Rivers. City of Superior is at the head of Lake Superior, on the Bay of Superior and Nemadji River. It was laid out in 1854, by a company of gentlemen who judged from its site that it must eventually be a large city. It has a splendid harbor, six miles long and one broad, admirably sheltered from storms, and capable of containing the shipping of the entire chain of lakes. In three years, its population had increased to 1,500 souls, and many buildings had been constructed. La Pointe, one of the oldest towns in the north-west, was first occupied by the French Jesuits and traders, in 1680. It is on Madeline Island of Lake Superior, which is separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. It has an air of antiquity, in its ruined port, dilapidated pickets, that form- erly inclosed the place, and the old Fur Company's buildings, some of which are still standing. Here was the scene of the labors of Fathers Claude Allouez and Jean Marquette, and of an Indian battle between the warlike Dacotahs and Algonquins, in which the chapel of the Holy Spirit, erected by these devoted missionaries, was destroyed. Near it, on the mainland, is the newly laid out town of Bayfield. MINNESOTA. MINNESOTA derives its name from the Minnesota River. The water of this river is clear, but has a blueish hue, owing to the peculiar colored clay of its bed. The name, Minnesota, indicates this peculiarity, and signifies "sky- tinted water." In 1679, Father Hen- nepin, a Dutch Franciscan friar, and two others, of La Salle's expedition, accompanied the Indians to their villages, 180 miles above the Falls of St. Anthony. "He was the first European who ascended the Missis- sippi above the mouth of the Wis- consin; the first to name and describe the Falls of St. Anthony; the first to present an engraving of the Falls of Niagara to the literary world.* The first white man who visited the soil of Minnesota was a French- man, Daniel Greysolon du Luth, who in 1678 left Quebec to explore the country of the Assineboines. On the 2d of July, of the next year, he planted the king's arms in Kathio, the great village of the Dakotahs, and, in the succeeding September, convened a coun- cil of the Indian nations at the head of Lake Superior. He built a fort, a trading post at the mouth of Pigeon River, and advanced as far as Mille Lac. In June, 1680, leaving his post, he met Hennepin among the Dakotahs, and descended the Mississippi with him. Before the termination of that century, other Frenchmen also visited Minnesota. In 1689, Perrot, accompanied by Le Sueur, Father Marest, and others, took formal possession of Minnesota, in the name of the French king. They also built a fort on the west shore of Lake Pepin, just above its entrance the ARMS or MINNESOTA. MOTTO Leloile dn Jford The Star of the North. *From " The History of Minnesota, from the Earliest French Exploration to the Present Time; by Edward Duffield Neill, Secretary of the Minnesota Historical Society. Phila- delphia, T. B. Lippincott & Co., 1858." 349 350 MINNESOTA. first French establishment in Minnesota. Le Sueur, in 1695, built a second post, on an island below the St. Croix. At this period, Le Sueur discovered, as he supposed, a copper mine on Blue Earth River, a tributary of the Minnesota. He returned in 1700, built a fort on the Minnesota, remained during the winter, and in the spring de- scended the Mississippi, with one hundred tuns of blue and green earth destined for France: but it is not known that he ever returned. Within the next 60 years, Minnesota was visited by the French fur traders. In 1763, Capt. Jonathan Carver, a native of Connecticut, visited the country, and subsequently published his travels in England, in which he first called the attention of the civilized world to the existence of the ancient monu- ments in the Mississippi valley, whi^h h^ dis<^ver?d '- the vicinity of Lake Pepin, and described. He also described a cave nea~ St. Paul, which bears his name to this day. He designed to have returned to the country, with which he was greatly delighted: but the American Revolution intervening prevented. "After the French cartf the British fur traders. The British North-west Fur Company occupied trading posts :it Sandy Lake, Leech Lake, and other central points within the limits of Minnesota. That at Sandy Lake was built in 1794, the year of Wnyre'a v.cto- ry. It was a large stockade, and contained two rows of buildings used as dwellings, pro- vision store, and workshops. Fort William, ou the north side of Lake Superior, eventu- ally became their principal depot. This fort was on so large a scale as to accommodate forty partners, with their clerks and families. About these posts were many half-breeds, whose members were constantly increasing by the intermarriages of the French traders with the Indian women. Their goods, consisting principally of blankets, cutlery, printed calicoes, ribbons, glass beads, and other trinket-, were forwarded to the posts from Mon- treal, in packages of about 90 pounds each, and exchanged in winter for furs, which in the summer were conveyed to Montreal in canoes, carrying each nbout 65 packages and 10 men. The Mackinaw Company, also English merchants, had their headquarters at Mack- inaw, while their trading posts were over a thousand miles distant, on the head waters of the Mississippi. Between the North-west and the Hudson's Bay Company a powerful ri- valry existed. The boundaries of the latter not being established, desperate collisions often took place, and the posts of each were frequently attacked. When Lieut. Pike ascended the upper Mississippi in 18U5, he found the fur trade in the exclusive possession of the North-west Company, which was composed wholly of foreigners. Although the lake posts were surrendeTed to our government in 1796, American authority was not felt in that quarter until after the war of 1812, owing to the influence the English exercised over the Indians. It was from fear of American rivalry that the British fur traders insti- gated the Indians to border wars against the early settlements. In 181 C, congress passed a law excluding foreigners from the Indian trade." In 18UU, when the Territory of Indiana was organized, that part of Minnesota east of the Mississippi was included within it; and in Ib03, when Louisiana was purchased, that part of Minnesota west of the Mississippi for the first time became United States territory. The first American officer who visited Minnesota on public business, was Zcbulon Mont- gomery Pike, a native of New Jersey, then a young lieutenant in the army. His errand was to explore the country, form alliances with the Indians, and expel the British traders found violating the laws of the United States. He was well treated by them; but as soon as he had departed, they disregarded the regulations he had established. Pike purchased the site of Fort Snelling, where, in 1819, barracks were erected, and a garrison stationed by the United States, which was the first American establishment in the country. Further explorations were made in 1820, by Gov. Cass; in 1823, by Major Long, and in Ib32, by Henry R. Schoolcraft, the last -of whom discovered the source of the Mississippi. From 1836 to 1839, M. Nicollet (under whom was John C. Fremont), was engaged in making geographical surveys in this region, and ten years later, a scientific corps under Dr. Dale Owen, by their explorations, revealed much additional information respecting the topography and geology of this northern country: as also have the published journals of Stansbury, Pope and Marcy, officers of the U. S. corps of topographical engineers. All these surveys and explorations were by order of government. The first settlers in Minnesota, aside from the missionaries, fur traders, and military, were n few Swiss emigrants from Pembina, the colony of Lord Selkirk, in the valley of the Red River, upward of 60(> miles north of Fort Snelling. In the years of 1837 and 1838, MINNESOTA. they opened farms on the site of St. Paul and vicinity. At this time the American emi grants had made no settlements on the Mississippi above Prairie du Chieti. In October, 1633, Rev. W. T. Boutwell established, at Leech Lake, the first Protestant mission in Minnesota west of the Mississippi. In May, 1835, the first church in Minnesota was organ- ized in the garrison at Fort Snelling, by Rev. Thos. S. Williamson and Rev. J. D. Stevens, missionaries of the American Board of Foreign Missions to the Dakotahs. In 1H43, a settlement was begun on the site of Siillwater, a mill :md other improvements commenced. The next year the first mill in Minnesota, above Fort Snelling, was built by B.'Gervais, five miles north-cast of St. Paul, at a point later known as Little Canada. In the year lfc'42. a store and some other trading shops were opened at St. Paul, which made it the nucleus of a settlement. Previous to the organization of Wisconsin as a state, that part of Minne- sota east of the Mississippi was included within it, and that part west in the Territory of Iowa. "On the 3d of March, 1849, a bill was passed organizing the Territory of Minnesota, whose boundary on the west extended to the Missouri River. At the time of the passage of the bill, organizing the Territory of Minnesota, the region was little more than a wild- erness. The west bank of the Mississippi, from the Iowa line to Lake Itasca, was unceded by the Indians. At Wapashaw was a trading post in charge of Alexis Bailly, and here also resided the ancient voyageur, of fourscore years, A. Rocque. At the foot of Lake Pepin was a store- house kept by Mr. F. S. Richards. On the west shore of the lake lived the eccentric Wells, whose wife was a bois brule a daughter of the deceased trader, Duncan Graham. The two unfinished buildings of stone, on the beautiful bank opposite the renowned Maid- en's Rock, and the surrounding skin lodges of his wife's relatives and friends, presented a rude but picturesque scene. Above the lake was a cluster of bark wigwams, the Dakotah village of Raymneecha, now Red Wing, at which was a Presbyterian mission house. The next settlement was Kaposia, also an Indian village, and the residence of a Presbyterian missionary, the Rev. T. S. Williamson, M.D. On the east side of the Mississippi, the first settlement, at the mouth of the St. Croix, was Point Douglas, then, as now, * small hamlet. At Red Rock, the site of a former Methodist mission station, there were a few farmers. St. Paul was just emerging from a colk-ction of Indian whisky shops, and birch-roofed cabins of half-breed voyageurs. Here and there a frame tenement was erected; and, under the auspices of the Hun. H. M.Rice, who had obtained an interest in the town, some warehouses were being constructed, and the foundations of the American House were laid. In 1849, the population had increased to two hundred and fifty or three hundred inhabitants, for rumors had, gone abroad that it might be mentioned in the act, creating the territory, as the capital." The officers appointed by President Taylor for the territory were, Alex. Ramsay, of Pa., governor; C. K. Smith, of Ohio, secretary ; A. Goodrich, of Tenu., chief justice; B. B. Meeker, of Ky., and David Cooper, of Pa., associate judges; H. L. Moss, U. S. district attorney; and A. M. Mitchell, of Ohio, marshal. The governor and other officers soon after arrived at St. Paul, and on the 1st of June the territorial government was organized. Henry H. Sibley, of Mich., was shortly after elected the first delegate to congress. The territorial legislature met on the 3d of September, and elected David Olmsted president of the council, and Joseph W. Furber as speaker of the house. The next day they assem- bled in the dining room of the town hotel, and, after a prayer by Rev. E.D. Neil!, the gov- ernor delivered his message. One of the first acts of the body was to incorporate " the Historical Society of Minnesota." The total population of the territory, 011 the llth of June, 1849, was 4,049. On the 33d of Feb., 1856, the U. S. senate authorized the people of Minnesota to form a state constitution, preparatory to admission into the Union. This was effected in the succeeding October, and on the 7th of April, 1858, the senate passed the bill admitting Minnesota into the Union. Henry M. Rice and James Shields were the first representa- tives of the new state in the national senate. In a census taken in 1857, preliminary to admission, the population was ascertained to be 150,037. Like all new states, Minnesota has been injured by the spirit of speculation in land, especially in town sites. Prior to the commercial revulsion of 1857, it was estimated that 868 town sites had been recorded, enough to accommodate a town population of over two million. Minnesota extends from latitude 43 30' to 48, and in longitude from 80 29' to 91 12': it is bounded on the E. by Lake Superior and Wiscon- 352 MINNESOTA. sin; on the N. by the British Possessions; on the W. by Dakotah Terri- tory, and on the S. by Iowa: its greatest length north and south is 380 miles, and it has a breadth varying from 183 to 358 miles: total area 81,259 square miles. Minnesota occupies the elevated plateau of North America. At the "highth of land," or Hauteurs des Tcrres, in the northern part of the state, lat. 47 deg. 7 niin. and long. 95 deg., "are the sources of the three great river systems of the conti- nent. The slopes of the adjacent valleys, meeting upon this central ridge, give to the surface of Minnesota, with the general aspect of an undulating plain, the shape of a pyramidal roof, down whose opposite sides the waters descend to their ocean outlets." Two thirds of this surface feeds the Mississippi with its waters, which thus find their way to the Gulf of Mexico, while the remainder of the surface con- tributes in about equal proportions to the Red ^River of the North, flowing into Hudson's Bay, and to Lake Superior, whose final outlet to the ocean ia through the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Highth of Land is about 1,500 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, and is the only hilly region, excepting the trap summits north of Lake Superior. The majestic Mississippi takes its rise among the hills of Lake Itasca, and flows ^for 797 miles through the state. The Minnesota, 470 miles long, empties into the Mississippi five miles above St. Paul, and is now navigable for steamers for 238 miles, to the mouth of the Yellow Medicine. The Red River has a length of 379 miles, to the British line. The St. Croix River, so valuable for its pineries, is nav- igable for 52 miles. Lake Superior washes 167 miles of the border of the state, and the St Louis River, at its extreme west end, is navigable 21 miles. Hon. B. B. Meeker, a ten years' resident in Minnesota, writing in 1860, gives a description of its climate, soil and general resources, which we copy in an abridged form; The climate of Minnesota is already proverbially good. Its complete exemption from all those diseases and maladies local to most new countries, and so justly a terror to all new coiners, is conceded by all who have tested it by actual residence. There is hardly a town, or city, or neighborhood in the state, that is not able to bear testimony to more than one complete restoration from chronic disease of the lungs or some of the varied types of con- sumption assumed by that most subtile of all the agents of the fell destroyer. Perhaps no locality on our continent has less of fever and ague. Indeed, if there be any cases of this kind, their origin is readily traced to some other states or territories, and but a short residence is necessary to eradicate it entirely. Hundreds and hundreds of families are annually driven from other western states to take up their residence in Minnesota, to escape this offensive and troublesome foe to the emigrant and his family. This is not only true of one, but of every portion of the state ; and what is very remarkable, it is just as healthy around the lake shores and along the valleys of our water courses, as upon the prairies and table lands of the interior. In no part of America are the seasons better de- fined or more emphatically marked. We will commence with the spring. This season usually begins about the middle of March, when the snow begins to melt and disappear suddenly. April is fickle and fluctu- ating May tranquil, warm, and genial. The latter part of April the farmers plant pota- toes and sow their spring wheat. About the first of May they sow their oats, and about the tenth plant their corn. After the first of May frosts rarely ever appear, certainly not to the same extent they do in states further south and east. This is a very remarkable fnct, and is demonstrated yearly. I was informed by an aged missionary, in the spring of 1849, that he had lived in the country then sixteen years, and that he had observed the % appear- ance of frost averaged two weeks earlier in northern Illinois than in Minnesota. Why this difference in favor of a more northern state, is an interesting problem for philosophers and geologists, with whom I leave the solution the fact, however, is incontestable. Summer in this state is indeed hot, sometimes even overpowering ; but always succeeded by cool, breezy, delicious nights. Sleep here is repose indeed, and not exhaustion, as in more southern states. In no part of the world do crops grow more rapidly than in Minne- sota, owing chiefly to two causes, the intense heat of summer days and the warm nature of the soil. This peculiarity of the soil and climate explains the hurried and swift maturity of the various species of corn, that many who have not witnessed the fact, believe can not ripen with any degree of certainty north of Ohio or Illinois. This quick action of the sun and soil on vegetation and grain, is necessarily a spur to the farmer, who is hurried from one department of his labor to another without much time for rest or relaxation. At first he will be apt to conclude that the planting of corn is too close on the sowing of wheat, oats, and barley ; and the weeding of the former too near the harvesting of the latter. But MINNESOTA. 353 he will soon learn by observation and experience to keep them separate and apart by taking time by the forelock. The autumns of Minnesota are bright, clear, and dry well adapted to the cutting and curing of hay, and the in-gathering of the crops. It is also the best season for sport, as hunting, fishing, and driving. No state in the Union has better natural road? and thorough- fares, and at this season you can safely drive a carriage to the Red River thence down that rich valley of land to the British interior or westward to the Rocky Mountains, or southerly to Iowa or Missouri. A good team road you can find at this season in almost any direction, and perfect health by the way. . The winter here is cold, dry, and severe. Snow falls for sleighing generally about the twentieth of November, and from that time to Christmas. After that but little snow falls, and it is uniform winter till spring comes, when it makes its exit rather unceremoniously. But let no one suppose that winter here is cheerless and void of social interest. In no part of the country are there more social appliances and social pleasures than in Minnesota. Lyceums, lecture-rooms, social and dancing parties, sleighing excursions by day and by moonlight, are common sources of pleasure from tho capitol to the country hamlet. This, too, is the season for harvesting the pine forest an employment half business and half pleasure a crop gathered in the winter and manufactured and sold in the spring and summer. Minnesota, like all the other states, has more or less of poor or indifferent soil ; at the same time few states in the Union have more productive or remunerating lands than Min- nesota, and these are admirably distributed so as ultimately to equalize the population through the several important districts marked by the physical geography of the country. The great natural subdivisions of the state are : I. The Lake Superior region or the region extending some sixty miles around the head of the great lake that bears that name. This district is for the most part woodland. Most of the soil is thin, low, and wet, with here and there a fertile locality of hard wood, as ash, sugar maple, and elm, having a clay or hard-pan subsoil. But little of this region is at present settled, and it is generally unknown to the emigrating public, as po road has yet been completed from Superior Ci'y to the Mississippi a distance of eighty miles only. It is to be regretted, and the government is to be blamed, that it has never constructed this road either for military or postal purposes, as well as for calling into requisition and settle- ment a large tract of the public domain, thus uniting, by a comparatively small expense, the two great valleys of the continent, the Lake and Mississippi. It would be essentially a national highway, nnd would speedily force into settlement all the cultivable lands be- tween the two mighty waters. This, too, is the mineral, the copper and iron district of Minnesota the only region in America where copper is found in massive purity. When the slumbering wealth of this region shall be appreciated, and capital and operatives shall have found a lodgment in this portion of Minnesota, agriculture in this vicinity will find an in- exhaustible market and a rich reward at the head of the lake. II. In the north-west of the state, heads the great valley or basin of the Red River of the North. This is almost a distinct region of country, and has many peculiarities in soil and population. The valley proper, is about thirty miles in width, being timbered and prairie and of the very richest soil, composed of a deep black loam, resting upon a clayey foundation. This is a vast luxuriant grass region the ancient paradise of the buffalo herds from which they have jnst been driven by the vanguard and outpost of our progressive population. This great valley is admirably adapted to the cultivation of hemp, barley, i maize, wheat, oats, and potatoes. III. The Upper Mississippi. By this I mean so much of the valley of the Uppei Mis- sissippi as lies north of the Falls of St. Anthony. On the east side or left hand ef this river, from its source to the falls, the soil is generally inferior, and yet there are many por- tions of it are good and yield well. On the west side, however, the soil is not only good but generally excellent. The Sauk River valley, tho Crow River valley and its branches, are not surpassed in fertility and productiveness in any western state. This region is not only well settled but populous, and is very productive in wheat, rye, oats, corn, and pota- toes, which are shipped in large quantities from the falls to St. Louis, the most accessible and best market. IV. The St. Peter's or Minnesota valley. This is an immense district of agricultural and grazing lands, stretching south-westerly first, and then north-westerly, embracing a tract of some five hundred miles, fertile in corn, wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes, all of which are easily and cheaply floated to the Mississippi, thence south to the best market. V. Lower Minnesota, or all that country lying west of the Mississippi and south of the St. Peter's or Minnesota River, including the very rich -and fertile country drained by the Blue Earth. This whole country is well settled, and very fertile in corn and wheat. The crops that do best in Minnesota are wheat, rye, barley, oats, potatoes, and corn the latter not always a certain crop. The average yield of wheat this year is supposed to be twenty-five bushels to the acre, the largest average of any state of the Union. There is no mineral coal in Minnesota, but the country is otherwise well supplied with fuel and means for manufacturing. For a prairie state, it is by far the best wooded and 23 354 MINNESOTA. timbered of their., all. All the region between the Upper Mississippi and the Great Lake it a wilderness of wood, oxcept a nariow belt of prairie along the river. All the great val leys above described have an abundance of wood for fuel, fencing, and building purposes. I think it is the best watered country in the world. A settler can hardly select him a farm in any part of the state that will not be near a spring, a creek, or lake. Cascades and St. Paul waterfalls, too, are to be found all over the state, and are valued for their beauty and util- ity. Water-power, as it is called, is inexhaustible in Minnesota, and is rapidly being ap- propriated to various branches of manufacturing. Flour and lumber have already become important staples, and command high and cash prices, from the Falls of St. Anthony to New Orleans. Other manufacturing will soon spring up, and make Minnesota, in this re- spect, the New England of the north-west. The more intense periods of cold in the winter of Minnesota, are shorn of their severity, by the absence of winds and the peculiar dryness of the atmosphere, which imparts an elasticity and buoyancy to the spirits. It has been ascertained by theometrical observations, continued for many years at Fort Snelfing, that its spring temperature is identical with that of Massa- chusetts; its summer with that of northern Ohio; its autumn with that of northern Vermont, and its winter is like that of Montreal. The population of Minnesota, in 1850, was 6,075, and in 1860, 176,535: and farms under cultivation, 19,075. ST. PAUL, the capital of Minnesota, derives its name from the Catholic church which had been organized there six years previous to the laying out ef the town. St. Paul stands on the left or east bank of the Mississippi; but at this particular point the course of the river is from south-west to north-east: the town is 8 miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, and 5 below Fort Snelling and the mouth of the Minnesota: distance, by the Mississippi, above New Orleans, 1,900 miles; above the mouth of the Ohio, 860; above St. Louis, 688; above Galena, 280; above La Crosse, 114; and about 400 MINNESOTA. 355 from Chicago by the usual route of travel. The main part of St. Paul stands upon a plain of land about 80 feet above the river, and 800 above the Gulf of Mexico, on one of the most beautiful and commanding of sites. " Com- mercially, it is the key to all the vast region north of it, and, by the Minne- sota River, to the immense valley drained through that important tributary to the Mississippi. The approach to it from below is grand and imposing. The traveler, after leaving Dubuque nearly 300 miles below, sees nothing to remind him of a city until lie rounds the bend in the river below St. Paul, when her tall spires, substantial business houses, and neat dwellings burst upon his view." St. Paul is near the geographical center of the continent, and is the _ prominent business point of one of the most beautiful, fertile, and healthy of countries. Population 1860, 10,401. The first settlers at St. Paul were the Swiss, originally from Pembina, Lord Selkirk's colony, on the Red River of the North. In the spring of 1825, the colonists there were driven from their homes by a terrible freshet in the river, consequent upon the melting of the Bnows. "After the flood, the}' could no longer remain in the land of their adversity, and they became the pioneers in emigration and agriculture in the state of Minnesota. At one time a party of 243 departed for the United States, who found homes at different points on the banks of the Mississippi. Before the eastern wave of emigration had ascended be- yond Prairie du Chien, the Swiss had opened farms on and near St. Paul, and should be recognized as the first actual settlers in the country." They first located on the land on the east side of the Mississippi, between St. Paul and Fort Snelling, and commenced im- provements. In March, 1838, the commander at the fort selected this land as a part of a military reservation. It was, therefore, withheld from sale. The settlers, who were principally the Swiss, were ordered to be removed by the war department. On the 6th and 7th of May, 1840, the troops from the fort, with undue haste, removed these unfortunate people, and destroyed their cabins: they then removed to the site of St. Paul: among them were Messrs. Massey, Perry, Garvis and Pierrie. " The year [1838] that the Dakotahs ceded the land east of the Mississippi," says Neill in his History of Minnesota, "a Canadian Frenchman, by the name of Parant, the ideal of an Indian whisky seller, erected a shanty at what is now the principal steamboat land- ing in St. Paul. Ignorant and overbearing, he loved money more than his soul. Desti- tute of one eye, and the other resembling that of a pig, he was a good representative of Caliban. In the year 1842, some one writing a letter in his groggery, for the want of a more euphonious name, designated the place as ' Pig's Eye,' referring to the peculiar appearance of the whisky seller. The reply to the letter was directed in good faith to ' Pig's Eye,' and was received in due time. In 1842, the late Henry Jackson, of Mahkato, settled at the same spot, and erected the first store on the night just above the lower landing; and shortly after, Roberts and Simp- son followed, and opened small Indian trading shops. In the year 1846, the site of St. Paul was chiefly occupied by a few shanties, owned by ' certain lewd fellows of the baser sort," who sold rum to the soldier and Indian. It was despised by all decent white men, and known to the Dakotahs by an expression in their tongue, which means, the place where they sell minne-wakan." * St. Paul was laid off as a town into lots in July, 1847, by Ira B. Brunaon, of Prairie du Chieh, in the employment of residents. "The n nines of those who were then sole pro- prietors, barring Uncle Sam's prior lien, were Vetal Ouerin, Alex. R. M'Leod, Henry Jackson, Hartshorn & Randall, Louis Robert.*, Benj. Gervais, David Farribault, A. L. Lar penteur, J.W. Simpson, and J. Demarrais." Fora year or two the place showed no signs of a promising future, until the Hon. Henry M. Rice bought in, and by his energv and reputation for forecast, "infused new life into the place." When the territorial bill for the organization of Minnesota was passed, St. Paul, through the exertions of Hon. Henry H. Sibley, was named as the temporary capital. The act was signed on the 3d of March, 1849. Says Neill: "More than a month after the adjournment of congress, just at eve, on the 9th of April, amid terrific peals of thunder and torrents of rain, the weekly steam packet, the !i;.--t to force its way through the icy barrier of Lake Pepin, rounded the rocky point, whittling loud and long, as if the bearer of glad tidings. Before she was safely moored to the laud- ing, the shouts of the excited villagers announced that there was a Territory of Minnesota, * Supernatural Water. 356 MINNESOTA. and tl,ui St. Paul was the seat of government. Every successive steamboat arrival poured out on the lauding men big with hope, and anxious to do something to mold the future of the new state. Nine days after the news of the existence of the Territory of Minnesota was received, there arrived James M. Goodhue with press, types, and printing apparatus. A graduate of Amherst College, and a lawyer by profession, he wielded a sharp pen, and wrote edito- rials, which, more than anything else, perhaps, induced emigration. Though a man of some glaring faults, one of the counties properly bears his name. On the 28th of April, ho issued the first number of the ' Pioneer.' On the 27th of May, Alexander Ramsey, the governor 5 , and family arrived at St. Paul, but, owing to the crowded state of the public houses, immediately proceeded in the steamer to the establishment of the fur company known as Mendota, at the junction of the Minne- sota and Mississippi, and became the guest of the Hon. H. H. Sibley. For several weeks there resided, at the confluence of these rivers, four individuals who, more than any other men, have been identified with the public interests of Minnesota, and given the state its present character. Their names are attached to the thriving counties of Ramsey, Rice, Sibley, and Steele. ' As unto the bow, the cord is, So unto the man is the woman. Though she bends him, she obeys him, Though she draws him, yet she follows, Useless each without the other.' " Fort Smiling, originally called Fort St. Anthony, is a noted point in th< history of Minnesota. It stands on a lofty bluff, 5 milea above St. Paul, on the west bank of the Mississippi, at the junction of the Minnesota, and on the north bank of the lat- ter. It is composed of large barracks and numerous edifices, surrounded by thick walla. Previous to the organization of Minnesota, in 1849, it was the only important point north FORT SNELLINO. of Prairie du Chien, and was for years the rendezvous of missionaries, of scientific explorers, and of mer- cantile adventurers, on their way to the Dakotahs. The scenery at this point, up the valley of the Minnesota, is surpassingly beautiful. The fort was named from Col. Snelling. He was a brave officer of the war of 1812, and particularly distinguished himself at Tippecanoe and Brownstown. He died in 1828. In Feb., 1819, the war department ordered the 5th regiment of infantry to concentrate at Detroit, for the purpose of transportation to the Mississippi, to garrison Prairie du Chien and Rock Island, and to establish a post as the head-quarters of the corps at the mouth of the Minnesota. Col. Leavenworth ascended the Mississippi with his soldiers in keel boats, and erected temporary barracks above the present village of Mendota, on the south side of the river, where they wintered. Col. Snelling subsequently assumed command of the garrison. On the 10th of September of the next year (1820), the cornerstone of Fort Snelling was laid. The wife of Colonel Snelling, " a few days after her arrival at the post, gave birth to the first infant of white parents in Minnesota, which, after a brief existence of thirteen months, departed to a better land. The dilapidated monument which marks the remains of the ' little one,' is still visible in the graveyard of the fort. Beside Mrs. Snelling, the wife of the commissary, and of Captain Gooding, were in the garrison, the first American ladies that ever wintered in Minnesota." The Minne-ha-ha Falh, the existence of which the genius of Longfellow MINNESOTA. 357 has perpetuated in living lines, is within a few minutes drive from Fort Snel- ling, or St. Anthony, being between these two points. " Waterfalls, in the Dakotah tongue, are called ha-ha. The 'A, has a strong gut- tural sound, and the word is ap- plied because of the curling or laughing of the waters. The verb I-ha-ha primarily means to curl; secondarily to laugh, be- cause of the curling motion of the mouth in laughter. The noise of Ha-ha is called by the Dakotahs 1-ha-ha, because of its resemblance to laughter. A small rivulet, the outlet of Lake Harriet and Calhoun, gently gliding over the bluff into an am- phitheater, forms this graceful waterfall. It lias but little of ' the cataract's thunder.' Niaga- ra symbolizes the sublime ; St. Anthony the picturesque; Ha-ha the beautiful. The fall is about sixty feet, presenting a parabolic curve, which drops, without the least deviation, until it' has reach- ed its lower level, when the stream goes on its way rejoicing, curling along in laughing, child- ish glee at the graceful feat it has performed in bounding over the precipice." St. Anthony is beautifully situated, on a gently rising prairie, on the left or east bank of the Missis- sippi, at the Falls of St. Anthony, 8 miles by land above St. Paul, 2 miles further north, and 12 by the windings of the river, and also 7 miles by the latter above Fort Snelling. "The first dwelling was erected in this city in the autumn of 1847, and Mrs. Ard Godfrey claims the honor of having given birth to the first of the fair daughters of St. Anthony." Here is located the University of the State. "Minnesota seems determined to be in advance of other states in education, for two sections in every township have been appro- priated for the support of common schools, no other state having previously obtained more than one section in each of its townships for such a purpose." The celebrated Falls of St. Anthony were named, in 1680, by their dis- coverer, Louis Hennepin, in honor of his patron saint. "They are only twenty feet in hight; but the scenery does not derive its inter- est from their grandeur, but from the perfect grouping of rock and wood and water on a magnificent scale. The Mississippi is upward of six hundred yards wide above the falls. These are quite perpendicular, and the water drops in beautiful single sheets on either side of a huge mass of white sandstone, of a pyramidal form, which splits the stream. The rapids below extend for several hundred yards, and are very broad, divided into various channels by precipitous islands of sand- stone, gigantic blocks of whicfr are strewn in grotesque confusion at the base of lofty walls of stratification of dazzling whiteness. These fantastically-shaped islands are thickly wooded, and birch and maple cling with desperate tenacity to nooks and crannies in the perpendicular cliffs. The banks of the river are of a character similar to the islands in its stream. The snowy-white houses of St. An- thony are almost hidden by the thick foliage of the left bank." MiNNn-nx-HA FALLS. ' Here (he Falls of Minne-lia-lia Fl;i-li and gleam among the oak trees, Laugh and leap into the valley." 358 MINNESOTA. Situated at the head of navigation on the Mississippi, with an unlimited water power, St. Anthony has a fine prospect of becoming an important man- ufacturing and commercial city. It has abundance of building stone, is in a rich agricultural region, and with abundance of lumber in its vicinity. Immediately opposite St. Anthony is the thriving town of Minneapolis. An elegant suspension bridge connects the two places. "As a work of beauty and art it can hardly be surpassed, while it has the appearance of great solidity; its massive cables being firmly anchored on either side in the solid rock. The work was undertaken in the spring of 1854, and finished the next year, at an expense of over $50,000, being the first suspension bridge ever built in a territory, and the first to span the Father of Waters." The two places, St. Anthony and Minneapolis, have unitedly about 7,000 inhabitants. Travelers visiting this region are apt to be eloquent in their descriptions. Part of this is no doubt to be attributed to the pure, dry, bracing atmosphere, which not only imparts a wondrous distinctness to the whole landscape, lending unwonted charms to the skies above, and to the earth beneath, but so braces up the system with the sensation of high health, that the stranger looks upon all things around him with most pleasing emotions. The effect of this elastic, life-giving atmosphere has, indeed, been described by some, as at times producing in them a buoyancy of feeling, that they could compare to nothing but the exhilaration occasioned by a slight indulgence in ardent spirits! Here the weak man feels a strong man, and the strong man a giant! The enthusiastic Bond, in his work on Minnesota, says that, owing to the strengthening nature of the climate, the labor of one man will produce more, and yield a larger surplus above his necessities, than in any other western state or territory. " We have," says he, " none of the languor, and debil- ity, and agues, that turn men into feeble women in the harvest field, as they have south of us. Labor here stands firmly on Us legs, the year round, and drives things through !" Among the travelers in this region,, who have spoken in its praise, is the celebrated savant Maury, superintendent of the National Observatory, at Washington. Says he: At the small hours of the night, at dewy eve and early morn, I have looked out with wonder, love, and admiration upon the steel-blue sky of Minnesota, set with diamonds, and sparkling with brilliants of purest ray. The stillness of your small hours is sublime. I feel constrained, as I gaze and admire, to hold my breath, lest the eloquent silence of the night should be broken by the reverberations of the sound, from the seemingly solid but airy vault above. Herschell has said, that in Europe, the astronomer might consider himself highly favored, if by patiently watching the skies for one year, he shall, during that period find, all told, one hundred hours suitable for satisfactory observations. A teles- cope, mounted here, in this atmosphere, under the skies of Minnesota, would have its powers increased many times over what they would be under canopies of a heaven less brilliant and lovely. Col. F. A. Lumsden, of the New Orleans Picayune, writing from St. An- thony, two weeks before his death and that of his family by shipwreck, on the ill-fated steamer Lady Elgin, on Lake Michigan, thus gives vent to his admiration: I have missed much by not having visited this section of country before, and one can have no correct idea of this region by anything they may hear or read about it. The scenery the country the lakes and the rivers the crops and the climate are the finest in the world. Such scenery as the Upper Mississippi presents I have never beheld: its beauties, its romantic grandeur can never be justly described. On either shore of this vast river, for miles on miles, stand the everlasting hills, their slopes covered with the emerald carpeting of spring. MINNESOTA. 359 As a place of summer resort, abounding in all the requisites of pleasure and health, St. Anthony excels all the watering places of the fashionable and expensive east. As for the Falls of St. Anthony, they are ruined by Yankee enterprise, and all their beauty has departed. Mills, foundries, dams and lumber rafts have spoilt all of nature's romantic loveliness by their innovations, and you would be astonished to see the hundreds of houses recently erected here, some of which are beautiful and costly specimens of architecture, that would prove ornaments to any city. The Winston House, at St. Anthony, is one of the largest and most elegant hotels of the north-west, built of stone at a cost oi' $1 10,000, and furnished in princely style. It is now filled with southern people. This is my fourth day here, and I already begin to experience the Jine effects of the in- vigorating climate and stimulating atmosphere. I have been hunting and fishing, and found the sport excellent. There are plenty of deer in the neighborhood, but I have seen none of them yet. The chief shooting is the prairie chicken, and they are in abundance in the plains and stubble fields. For fishing one can hardly go amiss. Within a range of from six to twenty miles from the town, are several magnificent lakes. In all of these, the greatest quantity of fish is to be found, such as perch, of various kinds, pickerel, bass, trout, etc., while in numerous small streams, hundreds of trout the regular speckled trout are taken daily. A gay and joyous party of us yesterday visited Lake Minnetonka, where we got up a very handsome picnic, and had a good time. A party of six gentle- men, all from the south, are to start to-morrow for the buffalo grounds of the Red River of the North, on a grand hunting expedition. The Minnesota River and Fort Snelling, as well as the pretty little Falls of Minne-ha- ha, lie between St. Paul and this place. From the hights of Fort Snelling a most en- chanting View of the rich valley of the Minnesota is had; and the traveler looks out upon the vast plain, stretching away beneath his vision, with emotions of surprise almost of bewilderment at the stupendous scene. What wealth, what riches have the United States nut acquired in the possession of this great domain of the north? Winona, is on the Mississippi River, 150 miles below Saint Paul, and has 4,000 inhabitants. It was named from the Indian maiden Winona, who, according to the legend, threw herself from a cliff into Lake Pepin, and found a grave in its waters, rather than wed an uncongenial brave. Red Wing and Hastings are smaller towns, on the Mississippi, the first the seat of Hamlin University, a methodist institution, and on that beautiful expansion of the Mississippi, Lake Pepin: Hastings is 25 miles be- low St. Paul. Mendota is on a beautiful island, at the junction of the Minnesota with the Mississippi. It possesses great advantages in position, and was for a long time a noted trading post of the American Fur Company. Immedi- ately in the rear of Mendota rises the lofty Pilot Knob, which is much visited. Beside the above there are numerous other rising towns in Minnesota, of which we have not descriptions at hand, as Wabashaw, Shakopee, Le Sueur, Nicollct, Stillwatcr, Lake City, etc. Whatever descriptions may be given of the rising towns in the west are of doubtful value, excepting as a matter of history, for often is the rapidity of their increase so great, that the sta- tistics of one season are of no reliability as a basis of knowledge a few seasons later. 360 MINNESOTA. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC. Nicholas Perrot was one of those master minds whose enterprises mark the his- tory of their times. He was by birth a Canadian, bred to the excitements of a frontier life. Educated by service to the Jesuits, he became familiar with the cus- toms and languages of the savages of the kikes of the far west. Years before La Salle launched the Griffin on Lake Erie, he was sent by government on an errand to the tribes of the north-west, and penetrated even as far south as Chicago. He was the first man known to have built a trading post on the Upper Mississippi, which he did on the* shores of Lake Pepin. According to the Dakotah tradition, he gave seed and corn to their people, through the influence of which the Dakotahs began to be led away from the rice grounds of the Mille Lac region. Louis Hennepin was born in Ath, Netherlands. He was bred a priest of the Recollect branch of the Franciscans. From his youth he had a passion for travel and adventure, and sought out the society of strangers, " who spent their time in nothing else but either to tell or hear some new thing." In 1676, he welcomed with joy the order from his superior to embark for Canada. He accompanied La Salle in his celebrated expedition to explore the far west. In Feb., 1680, he was dispatched by La Salle, with two voyageurs in a canoe, on a voyage of discovery up the unknown regions of the Upper Mississippi. It was on this journey that he discovered and named the Falls of St. Anthony. In 1683, he published, at Paris, a tolerably correct account of his travels in Minnesota. In 1698, he issued an enlarged edition, dedicated to King William, in which he falsely claimed to have descended the Mississippi to its mouth. His descriptions were stolen from the works of other travelers. Wishing to return to Canada, the minister of Louis XIV wrote, "As his majesty is not satisfied with the conduct of the friar, it is his pleasure that if he return thither, that they arrest and send him to the intendant at Rochefort." "In the year 1701, he was still in Europe, attached to a convent in Italy. He appears to have died in obscurity, unwept and unhonored." Jean N. Nicollet was born in 1790, in Cluses, Savoy. So poor were his parents that he was obliged, at the early age of nine years, to gain a subsistence by play- ing upon the flute and violin. When ten years old, he was apprenticed to a watch- maker, and turned his leisure hours to the study of mathematics. He eventually moved to Paris and entered the normal school, later became a college professor, and gained distinction as an astronomer, receiving the decoration of the Legion of Honor. In 1832, he emigrated to the United States, poor and honest In the pumrner of 1836, he came to Minnesota, and explored the sources of the Upper Mississippi, with scientific exactness. Soon after he received a commission from the United States to explore the sources of the Minnesota, and at this time was assisted by John C. Fremont. "The map which he constructed, and the astro- nomical observations which he made, were invaluable to the country." Hon. H. II. Sibley, in his notice of Nicollet, says : " His health was so seriously affected after his return to Washington in 1839, that from that time forward he was incapacitated from devoting himself to the accomplishment of his work as exclusively as he had previously done. Still he labored, but it was with de- pressed spirits and blighted hopes. He had long aspired to a membership in the Academy of Sciences of Paris. His long continued devotion and valuable contributions to the on use of science, and his correct deportment as a gentleman, alike entitled him to such a distinc- tion. But his enemies were numerous and influential, and when his name was presenieu in accordance with a previous nomination, to fill a vacancy, he was black-balled and re- jected. This last blow was mortal. True, he strove against the incurable melancholy which had fastened itself upon him, but his struggles waxed more and more faint, until death put a period to his sufferings on the 18th of September, 1844. Even when he was aware that his dissolution was near at hand, his thoughts reverted back to the days when he roamed along the valley of the Minnesota River. It was my fortune to meet him for the last time, in the year 1842, in Washington City. A short time before his death, I received a kind but mournful letter from him, in which he adverted to the fact that his days were numbered, but at the same time he expressed a hope that he would have strength sufficient to enable him to make his way to our country, that he might yield up his breath and be interred on the banks of his beloved stream. It would have been gratifying to his friends to know that the soil of the region which hcvd employed so much of his time nnd scientific research, had received his mortal remains MINNESOTA. 861 into his bosom, but they were denied this melancholy satisfaction. He sleeps beneath the sod far away, in the vicinity of the capital of the nation, but his name will continue to be cherished in Minnesota as one of its early explorers, and one of its best friends. The as- tronomer, the geologist, and the Christian gentleman, Jean N. Nicollet, will long be re- membered in connection with the history of the north-west. ' Time shall quench full many A people's records, and a hero's acts, Sweep empire after empire into nothing; But even then shall spare this deed of thine. And hold it up, a problem tew dare hnitate. And none despise.' " Lake Itasca is one of the multitude of those clear, beautiful sheets of water which do so abound in Minnesota, that the aboriginal inhabitants were called, by the early French voyageurs, the "People of the Lakes." It is estimated by Schoolcraft, that within its borders are ten thousand of these, and it ia thought. It is measurably to them that the husbandman of Minnesota is so blessed with abundance of summer rains. The waters, pure, sweet, and cold, abound with fish of de- licious flavor. The Indians often reared their habitations on the margins of the most beautiful and picturesque. T h e greater number are isolated and destitute of out- lets ; usually of an oval form, and from one to two and three miles in diameter, '' with clear white sandy shores, gentle, grassy slopes, or rimmed with walls of rock, their pebbly beaches, sparkling with cor- LAKE ITASCA. The Source of the Mississippi. nelians and agates, while the oak grove or denser wood which skirts its margin, completes the graceful outline." Among all these sheets of water that by day and by night reflect the glories of this northern sky, the lake named Itasca, from an Indian maiden, is especially honored. For here, from the lap of encircling hills, in latitude 47 deg. 13 min. 35 sec., 1,575 feet above the ocean, and 2,527 miles from it, by its own meander- ings, the Mississippi, the Father of Waters, finds his birth-place. Lake Itasca was first brought to the notice of the civilized world as the source of the Mississippi, by Mr. Henry K. Schoolcraft, Indian agent at Sault Ste. Marie. In the summer of 1832, he was given charge of an expedition to visit the Indians toward the source of the Mississippi. Attached to the expedition was a military escort, under Lieut. James Allen, Dr. Houghton, geologist of Michigan, and Rev. W. T. Boutwell, who was sent out by the American Board, preliminary to estab- lishing missions among the Indians. They crossed over from the west end of Lake Superior, and at two o'clock on the afternoon of the 13th of July, reached the Elk Lake, named Itasca by Mr. Schoolcraft. " With the exception of traders, no white men had ever traced the Mississippi so far. The lake is about eight miles in length, and was called Elk by the Ojibways, because of its regularities, resem- bling the horns of that animal. Lieut. Allen, the commander of the military de- tachment, who made the first map of this lake, thus speaks : 'From these hills, which were seldom more than two or three hundred feet high 3(32 MINNESOTA we came suddenly down to the lake, and passed nearly through it to an island near its west end, where we remained one or two hours. We were sure that we had reached the true source of the great river, and a feeling of great satisfaction was manifested by all the party. Mr. Schoolcraft hoisted a flag on a high stuff on the island, and left it flying. The lake is about seven miles long, and from one to three broad, but is of an irregular shape, conforming to the bases of pine hills, which, for a great part of its circumference, rise 'abruptly from its shore. It is deep, cold, and very clear, and seemed to be well stocked with fish. Its shores show some bowlders of primitive rock, but no rock in place. The island, the only one on the lake, is one hundred and fifty yards long, fifty yards broad in the high- est part, elevated twenty or thirty feet, overgrown with elm, pine, spruce, and wild cherry. There can be no doubt that this is the true source and fountain of the longest and largest branch of the Mississippi.' " THE INDIANS OF MINNESOTA. "Minnesota, from its onrliest discovery, has been the residence of two powerful tribes, the (Jhippewas or Ojibways, and the Sioux pronounced Sooz or Dah- kotahs.'* The word Chippewa is a corruption of the term Ojibway, and that of Dahkotah signifies the allied tribes. The Winuebago from Iowa, and the Menon- omies from Wisconsin, have recently been removed to Minnesota. They are both small tribes compared to the above. The Dahkotahs claim a country equal in extent to some of the most powerful empires of Europe, including the greater part of the country between the Upper Mississippi and the Missouri. The country from Rum River to the River De Cor- beau has been alike claimed by them and the Ojibways, and has been the source of many bloody encounters within the last two hundred years. The Dahkotahs have destroyed immense numbers of their race, and are one of the most warlike tribes of North America They are divided into six bands, comprising in all, 28,000 souls. Besides these, a revolted band of the Sioux, 8,000 strong, called Osinipoilles, reside just east of the Rocky Mountains, upon Saskatchawan River of British America. The Dahkotahs subsist upon buffalo meat and the wild fruits of their forests. The former is called pemmican, and is prepared in winter for traveling use in the following manner: The lean parts of the buffalo are cut into thin slices, dried over a slow fire in the sun, or by exposing it to frost pounded fine, and then with a portion of berries, mixed with an equal quantity of fat from the hump and brisket, or with marrow in a boiling state, and sowed up tightly in sacks of green hide, or packed closely in baskets of wicker-work. This ' pemmican ' will keep for several years. They also use much of the wild rice, which grows in great abundance in the lakes and head streams in the Upper Mississippi country. The rivers and lakes of the Dahkotah and Ojibway country are said to produce annually several mil- lions of bushels of it It is said to be equally as nutritious and palatable as the Carolina rice. It grows in water from four to seven feet deep, which has a muddy bottom. The plant rises from four to eight feet above the surface of the water, about the size of the red cane of Tennessee, full of joints and of the color and texture of bulrushes. The stalks above the water, and the branches which bear the grain, resemble oats. To these strange grain fields, wild ducks and geese resort for food in the summer; and to prevent it being devoured by them, the Indians tie *" The Dahkotahs in the earliest documents, and even until the present day, are called Sioux, Seioux, or Soos. The name originated with the early ' voyageurs.' For centuries the Ojibways of Lake Superior waged war against the Dahkotahs; and, whenever they spoke of them, called them Nadowaywcwx, which signifies enemies. The French traders, to avoid exciting the attention of the Indians, while conversing in their presence, were accustomed to designate them by names which would not be recognized. The Dahkotahs were nicknamed Sioux, a word composed of the two last syllables of the Ojibway word for foes." Ncill'i Minnesota. MINNESOTA. 363 it, when in the milky state, just below the head, into large bunches. This arrange- ment prevents these birds from pressing the heads down when within their reach. When ripe, the Indians pass among it with canoes lined with blankets, into which they bend the stalks and whip off the grain with sticks ; and so abundant is it DOG DANCE OP THE DAHKOTAHS. Jr **'* Lr *~^ I ~ODOll(" S. IK ff/C\ if I J -LP- J x S. , i i . til" 11 o lodff dl- r^ III! v. yx ** MM G-< c> " & \ 9 * ^ ~J in in cj * d o & d o ~~?^ 1?^"^"~ -3-^^-^ t:S T"T^^ ^TTI * i i i -CO- - ^_ f d d _f^ _^., t^fc | . 1 b' M. ... ' rHF f^^ J'J J d" n. ,,i in ,n ' J\ "! J 3 1 ^-l X*i ./-. *^v /^l ^ fc. k. 1 y^J-fc *T **L 1 j!^33p.|JS I s -! 1 J x 1 a ^cJo*-J I j ^^J "3 '' I * . J \ . j 1 ^ dd *dOOC(o HI ill. HI lit ill I'H mi OJIBWAY SCALP DANCE. "' I" "1 MI " ill in " in -f M tJ 1 ' 00 a.H \ ^J'**L [ r ? r- f \J ^ ^- <^ L ^ ^J K : (7 L . y . H N (TEZEBl r\, NII i\ i i fw" r r J J tc uj * *-J J 'J IJ J n d " ii o moo cr o || II JH II' - '! /^ 1 1? iv i i r i i ' \ K J viy i c c TA notes marked with accents are performed with a tremulous voice, sounded High-yi-yi, fie. that an expert squaw will soon fill a canoe. After being gathered it is dried and put into skins or baskets for use. They boil or parch it, and eat it in the winter season with their pemmican. Beside the pemmican and wild rice, the country abounds in sugar-maple, from which the Indians make immense quantities of sugar. Their country abounds with fine groves, interspersed with open plains clothed with rich wild grasses their lakes and rivers of pure water are well stored with fish, and their soil with the whortleberry, blackberry, wild plum, and crab apple ; so that this talented and victorious race possess a very desirable and beautiful terri- tory. 3(34 MINNESOTA. The Ojibways inhabit the head-waters of the Mississippi, Ottertail and Leach, De Corbeau and Red Rivers, and Winnipeg Lake. They arc a powerful tribe, al- most equaling the Dahkotahs in numbers: they speak a copious language, and are of low stature and coarse features. The women have an awkward side-at-a-time gait; which proceeds from their being 'accustomed, nine months of the year, to wear snow-shoes, and drag sledges of a weight from two hundred to four hundred pounds. No people are more attentive to comfort in dress than the Ojibways. It is composed of deer and fawn-skins, dressed with the hair on for winter, and with- out the hair for summer wear. They are superstitious in the extreme. Almost every action of their lives is in- fluenced by some whimsical notion. They believe in the existence of a good and an evil spirit, that rule, in their several departments, over the fortunes of men ; and in a state of future rewards and punishments." EFFECT OP THE CLIMATE OF MINNESOTA ON LT7NG DISEASES. [From the Letters of the Kev. Dr. Horace Bushnell.] I went to Minnesota early in July, and remained there until the latter part of the May following. I had spent a winter in Cuba without benefit. I had spent also nearly a year in California, making a gain in the dry season, and a partial loss in the wet season, returning, however, sufficiency improved to resume my la- bors. Breaking down again from this only partial recovery, I made the experi- ment now of Minnesota; and submitting myself, on returning, to a very rigid ex- amination, by a physician who did not know at all what verdict had been passed by other physicians before, he said, in accordance with their opinion, "You have had a difficulty in the right lung, but it is healed." I had suspected from my symptoms that it might be so, and the fact appears to be confirmed by the further fact that I have been slowly, though irregularly gaining all the summer. This improvement, or partial recovery, 1 attribute to the climate of Minnesota. But not to this alone other things have concurred. First, I had a naturally firm, enduring constitution, which had only given way under excessive burdens of labor, and had no vestige of hereditary disease upon it. Secondly, I had all my burdens thrown off, and a state of complete, uncaring rest. Thirdly, I was in such vigor as to be out in the open air, on horseback and otherwise, a good part of the time. It does not follow, by any means, that one who is dying under hereditary con- sumption, or one who is too far gone to have any power of endurance, or spring of recuperative energy left, will be recovered in the same manner. A great many such go there to die, and some to be partially recovered and then die : for I knew of two young men, so far recovered as to think themselves well, or nearly so, who by overviolent exertion brought on a recurrence of bleeding, and died, one of them almost instantly, and the other in about twenty- four hours ; both in the same week. The general opinion seemed to be that the result was attributa- ble, in part, to the overtonic property of the atmosphere. And I have known of very remarkable cases of recovery there which had seemed to be hopeless. One of a gentleman who was carried ashore on a litter, and became a robust, hearty man. Another who told me that he had even coughed up bits of his lung, of the size of a walnut, and was then, seven or eight months after, a perfectly sound- looking, well-set man, with no cough at all 1 fell in with somebody every few days who had come there and been restored ; and with multitudes of others whose disease had been arrested, so as to allow the prosecution of business, and whose lease of life, as they had no doubt, was much lengthened by their migration to that region of the country. Of course it will be understood that a great many are sadly disappointed in going thither, and that as the number of consumptives making the trial increases, the funerals of the consumptive strangers are becoming sadly frequent The peculiar benefit of this climate appears to be from its dryness. There is as much, or even a little more of rain there than elsewhere, in the summer months ; but it comes more generally in the night, and the days that follow brighten out in a fresh, tonic brilliancy, as dry almost as before. The winter climate is intensely MINNESOTA. 365 cold, and yet so dry, and clear, and still, for the most part, as to create no very great suffering. One who is properly dressed finds the climate much more enjoy- able than the amphibious, half-fluid, half-solid, sloppy, grave-like chill of the east. The snows are light ; a kind of snow-dew that makes an inch, or sometimes three, in a night. Heal snow-storms are rare ; there were none the last winter. A little more snow to make better sleighing would be an improvement. As to rain in the winter, it is almost unknown. There was no drop of rain the last winter, from the latter part of October to the middle, or about the middle of March, except a slight drizzle on thanksgiving day. And there was not snow melting enough for more than about eight or ten days to wet a deerskin moccasin (which many gentlemen wear all the winter). The following statement will show the comparative rain-fall, whether in the shape of rain or snow, for three different points, that may be taken to represent the whole country; being on the two coasts, and St. Paul in the mid- dle of the continent: San Francisco, spring, 8 inches; summer, 0; autumn, 3; winter, 10; mean, 21. St. Paul, spring, 6 inches; summer, 12; autumn, 6; win- ter, 2; mean, 26. Hartford, spring, 10 inches; summer, 11; autumn, 10; winter, 10; mean, 41. The San Francisco climate stands first, here, in dryness, it will be observed; but it requires to be noted, in the comparison, that while there is no rain-fall there for a whole six months, there is yet a heavy sea fog rolling in every day, which makes the St. Paul climate really the driest of the two. The beautiful inversion, too, of the California water-season, at St. Paul, will be noticed ; the water falling here in the summer, when it is wanted, and ceasing in the winter, when it is not. IOWA. IOWA derived its name from the Iowa Indians, who were located on the Iowa River. They at last became incorported with other tribes, principally among the Sauks, or Sacs and Foxes. These tribes had the reputation of being the best hunters of any on the borders of the Mississippi or Missouri. At the time the first white traders went among them, their practice was to leave their villages as soon as their corn and beans were ripe and secured, to go on to their wintering grounds, it being previously determined in coun- cil on what particular ground each party should hunt. The old men, women, and children embarked in canoes ; the young men went by land with their horses ; and on their arri- val, they commenced their winter's hunt, which lasted about three months. In the month of April, they returned to their villages to cul- tivate their lands. Iowa was origin- ally a part of the French province of Louisiana. The first white settlement was made at Dubuque v As early as 1800, there were mines of lead worked at this place by the natives, assisted by Julien Dubuque, an Indian trader, who had adopted their habits, married into their tribe, and became a great chief among them. In 1830, a war among the Indians themselves was carried on with savage barbarity. Some 10 or 12 Sac and Fox chiefs, with their party, were going to Prairie du Chien from Dubuque, to attend a treaty conference with the U. S. commissioners, when they were attacked at Cassville Island by a large war party of the Sioux, and literally cut to pieces, only two of all their number escaping. The tribe, now in great confusion and alarm, left Du- buque, mostly never to return, leaving the mines and this part of the coun- try vacant, and open to settlement, as when occupied by them, they would allow no one to intrude upon their lands. In June of this year, Mr. L. H. Langworthy, accompanied by his elder brother, crossed the Mississippi in a 367 AUMS or IOWA. MOTTO Our liberties we prize, and onr rights we will maintain. 368 IOWA. canoe, swimming their horses by its side, and landed for the first time on the west bank of the stream. Soon after this, a number of miners crossed over the river, possessed themselves of these vacant lands, and commenced suc- cessful mining operations. " This was the first flow or the first tide of civ- ilization in Iowa." The miners, however, were soon driven off by Capt. Zachary Taylor, then commanding at Prairie du Chien, and a military force stationed at Dubuque till 1832, when the "Black Hawk War" commenced. After the Indians were defeated the miners returned. Until as late as the year 1832, the whole territory north of the state of Missouri was in undisputed possession of the Indians. After the Indians were defeated at the battle of the Bad Ax, in Wisconsin, Aug., 1832, partly to indemnify the government for the expenses of the war, the Sacs and Foxes ceded to the United States a strip of country, west of the Mississippi, extending nearly 300 miles N. of Missouri, and 50 miles wide, commonly called the ' Black Hawk Purchase." Further purchases were made in 1836 and 1837; and in 1842, by a treaty concluded by Gov. Cham- bers, a tract of about fifteen million acres was purchased of the Sacs and Foxes, for one million of dollars. This tract, comprising some of the finest counties of the state, is known as the " New Purchase." The Pottowatomies, who inhabited the south-western corner of the state, and the Winnebagoes, who occupied the "Neutral Ground," a strip of coun- try on the northern borders, have been recently peaceably removed, and the Indian title has thus become extinct within the limits of Iowa. The terri- tory now comprised within the limits of the state was a part of the Missouri Territory from 1804 to 1821, but after that was placed successively under the jurisdiction of Michigan and Wisconsin Territories. The following conclud- ing details of its history are from Monette : "The first white settlement in the Black Hawk Purchase was made near the close of the year 1832, at Fort Madison, by a colony introduced by Zachariah Hawkins, Benjamin Jennings, and others. In the summer of 1835, the town-plat of 'Fort Madison ' was laid off by Gen. John H. Knapp and Col. Nathaniel Knapp, the first lots in which were exposed to sale early in the year 1836. The second settlement was made in 1833, at Burlington, seventy-nine miles below Rock Island. About the same time the city of Dubuque, four hundred and twenty-five miles above St. Louis, received its first Anglo-American population. Before the close of the year 1833, settlements of less note were commenced at many other points near the western shore of the Mississippi, within two hundred miles of the northern limits of the state of Missouri. It was in the autumn of 1834, that Aaron Street, a member of the ' Society of Friends,' and son of the Aaron Street who emigrated from Salem, in New Jersey, founded the first Salem in Ohio, and subsequently the first Salem in Indiana, on a tour of ex- ploration to the Iowa country, in search of 'a new home,' selected the 'beau- tiful prairie eminence' south of Skunk Riveras the site of another Salem in the 'Far West.' In his rambles thirty miles west of Burlington, over the uninhabited regions, in all their native loveliness, he was impressed with the great advantages presented by the 'beautiful and fertile prairie country, which abounded in groves of tall forest trees, and was watered by crystal streams flowing among the variagated drapery of the blooming prairies.' Transported with the prospect, the venerable patriarch exclaimed, ' Now have mine eyes beheld a country teeming with every good thing, and hither will I come, with my children and my children's children, and my flocks and IOWA. 369 herds ; and our dwelling-place shall be called ' Salem,' after the peaceful city of our fathers.' Next year witnessed the commencement of the town of Salem, on the frontier region of the Black Hawk Purchase, the first Quaker settlement in Iowa. Five years afterward this colony in the vicinity of Salem numbered nearly one thousand souls, comprising many patriarchs bleached by the snows of seventy winters, with their descendants to the third and fourth gen- erations. Such was the first advance of the Anglo-American population west of the Upper Mississippi, within the 'District of Iowa, 1 which, before the close of the year 1834, contained nearly five thousand white inhabitants. Meantime, for the convenience of temporary government, the settlements west of the Mississippi, extending more than one hundred miles north of the Des Moines River, had been by congress erected into the 'District of Iowa,' and attached to the District of Wisconsin, subject to the jurisdiction of the Michigan Territory. The District of Iowa remained, with the District of Wisconsin, attached to the jurisdiction of Michigan Territory, until the latter had assumed an independent state government in 1836, when the District of Wisconsin was erected into a separate government, known as the Wisconsin Territory, exercising jurisdiction over the District of Iowa, then comprised in two large counties, designated as the counties of Des Moines and Dubuque. The aggregate population of these counties in 1836 was 10,531 persons. It was not long before the District of Iowa became noted throughout the west for its extraordinary beauty and fertility, and the great advantages which it af- forded to agricultural enterprize. Already the pioneer emigrants had overrun the first Black Hawk Purchase, and were advancing upon the Indian country west of the boundary line. Settlements continued to extend, emigration augmented the population, and land offices were established at Dubuque and Burlington for the sale of such lands as were surveyed. Meantime, the District of Iowa, before the close of the year 1838, had been subdivided into sixteen counties, with an aggregate population of 22,860 souls, distributed sparsely over the whole territory to which the Indian title had been extinguished. The same year, on the 4th of July, agreeably to the provisions of an act of congress, approved June 12, 1838, the District of Iowa was erected into an independent territorial government, known as the ' Territory of Iowa.' The first ' territorial governor and superintendent of Indian affairs ' was Robert Lucas, formerly governor of Ohio, with James Clark secretary of the territory. Charles Mason was chief justice of the superior court, and judge of the first judicial district; Joseph Williams was judge in the second district; and Thomas S. Wilson in the third. The first delegate elected by the people to represent them in congress was Augustus C. Dodge. The Iowa Territory, as first organized, comprised 'all that region of coun- try north of Missouri, which lies west of the Mississippi River,, and of a line drawn due north from the source of the Mississippi, to the northern limit of the United States.' The first general assembly of the Iowa Territory made provision for the permanent seat of government, On the first of May, 1839, the beautiful spot which is now occupied by the 'City of Iowa' was selected. During the year 1839, emigration from New England, and from New York by way of the lake route from Buffalo to the ports on the western shore of 24 370 [OWA - Lake Michigan, and from Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, began to set strongly into the Iowa Territory, and numerous colonies advanced to settle the beau- tiful and fertile lands on both sides of the Des Moines River and its numer- ous tributaries, as well as those upon the small tributaries of the Mississippi for two hundred miles above. Population increased in a remarkable manner; aided by the unbounded facilities of steam navigation, both on the great lakes and upon the large tributaries of the Mississippi, the emigration to the Iowa and Wisconsin Ter- ritories was unprecedented in the history of western colonization. The cen- sus of 1840 exhibited the entire population of Iowa Territory at 43,017 per- sons, and that of the Wisconsin Territory at 30,945 persons. Such had been the increase of emigration previous to 1843, that the legis- lature of Iowa made formal application for authority to adopt a state consti- tution. At the following session of congress, an act was passed to ' enable the people of the Iowa Territory to form a state government.' A conven- tion assembled in September, and on the 7th of October, 1844, adopted a constitution for the proposed 'state of Iowa;' it being the fourth state organ- ized within the limits of the province of Louisiana. By the year 1844, the population of Iowa had increased to 81,921 persons; yet the people were subjected to disappointment in the contemplated change of government. The constitution adopted by the convention evinced the pro- gress of republican feeling, and the* strong democratic tendency so prominent in all the new states. The constitution for Iowa extended the right of suf- frage to every free white male citizen of the United States who had resided six months in the state, and one month in the county, previous to his appli- cation for the right of voting. The judiciary were all to be elected by the people for a term of four years, and all other officers, both civil and milita- ry, were to be elected by the people at stated periods. Chartered monopolies were not tolerated, and no act of incorporation was permitted to remain in force more than twenty years, unless it were designed for public improve- ments or literary purposes ; and the personal as well as the real estate of the members of all corporations was liable for the debts of the same. The leg- islature was prohibited from creating any debt in the name of the state ex- ceeding one hundred thousand dollars, unless it were for defense in case of war, invasion, or insurrection ; and in such case, the bill creating the debt should, at the same time, provide the ways and means for its redemption. Such were some of the prominent features of the first constitution adopted for the state of Iowa. Yet the state was not finally organized under this constitution, and the people of Iowa remained under the territorial form of government until the close of the year 1846. The constitution of Iowa having been approved by congress, an act was passed March 3, 1845, for the admission of the 'state of Iowa' into the Fed- eral Union simultaneously with the 'state of Florida,' upon the condition that the people of Iowa, at a subsequent general election, assent to the restricted limits imposed by congress, in order to conform with the general area of other western states; but the people of Iowa refused to ratify the restricted limits prescribed for the new state, a majority of nearly two thousand in the popular vote having rejected the terms of admission. Hence Iowa 1 remained under the territorial government until the beginning of 1846, when the peo- ple, through their legislature, acquiesced in the prescribed limits, and con- gress authorized the formation of another constitution, preparatory to the admission of Iowa into the Union. IOWA. The people of Iowa, in 1846, assented to the restriction of limits, and the formation of a territorial government over the remaining waste territory lying north and west of the limits prescribed by congress. Petitions, with numer- ous signatures, demanded the proposed restriction by the organization of a separate territory, to be designated and known as the 'Dacotah Territory,' comprising the Indian territory beyond the organized settlements of Iowa. Congress accordingly authorized a second convention for the adoption of another state constitution, and this convention assembled in May, 1846, and adopted another constitution, which was submitted to congress in June fol lowing. In August, 1846, the state of Iowa was formally admitted into the Union, and the first state election was, by the proclamation of Gov. Clarke, to be held on the 26th day of October following. In the ensuing December, the first state legislature met at Iowa City." Iowa is bounded N. by Minnesota and Dacotah Territory, W. by Missouri River, S. by the state of Missouri, and E. by Mississippi River. It is situ- ated between 40 30' and 43 30' N. Lat., and between 90 20' and *96 50' W. Long. Its greatest width, from E. to W., is 307 miles, and 186 from N". to S.; included within its limits is an area of 50,914 square miles. The face of Iowa is moderately uneven, without any mountains or very high hills. There is a tract of elevated table land, which extends through a considerable portion of the state, dividing the waters which fall into the Mis- sissippi from those falling into the Missouri. The margins of the rivers and creeks, extending back from one to ten miles, are usually covered with tim- ber, while beyond this the country is an open prairie without trees. The prairies generally have a rolling surface, not unlike the swelling of the ocean, and comprise more than two thirds of the territory of the state: the tim- bered landsonly one tenth. The soil, both on the prairie and bottom lands, is generally excellent having a deep black mold intermingled with a sandy loam, sometimes of red clay and gravel. It is watered by streams of the clearest water, and its inland scenery is very beautiful. It is studded in parts with numerous little lakes of clear water, with gravelly shores and bottoms. In the north-eastern part of the state are very extensive lead mines, being continuations of those of Illinois and Wisconsin. Vast coal beds exist, extend- ing, it is stated, upward of two hundred miles, in the direction of 1 the valley of the Des Moines River alone, which centrally intersects the state. The entire area of the coal fields in this state, is estimated to be not less than 35,000 square miles, nearly two thirds of the entire state. The beds of coal are estimated by geologists to be of the average thickness of 100 feet. Iron ore, zinc and copper are also found. Iowa is also rich in agricultural re- sources, its fertile soil producing all kinds of fruit and grains raised in north- ern climates. "As a general rule, the average quantity of snow and rain in Iowa is much less than in New York and New England. There are much fewer clouds. The cold weather in winter is about the same as in similar latitudes in the east; winter commences about the same time*, but the spring generally opens much earlier. The intense cold we;ither is comparatively short. For a period of years the spring will average from two to four weeks earlier than in central New York. This difference is due to several causes. In the east the proximity of large bodies of water gives rise to an im- mense number of very dense clouds, that prevent the spnrig sun from hav- ing the same effect as is experienced in the west. Tho altitude of the coun- try, and the warm quick nature of the Iowa soil, are circi. instances going far toward accounting* for this difference. The heat of summer is much greater 372 IOWA. than in the same latitude in New York and New England, though a person may work in the open sun in Iowa when the thermometer is 100 degrees above zero more comfortably than he can when it is at 90 degrees in New York. An atmosphere saturated with water is more sultry and disagreeable with the thermometer at 90, than a dry atmosphere with the thermometer at 100." Iowa is blessed with abundance of water power, and the noblest of rivers ; the Mississippi is on the east, the Missouri on the west, while numerous streams penetrate it, the finest of which is the Des Moines, the great central artery of the state, which enters it from the north and flows south-east through it for 400 miles: it is a beautiful river, with a rocky bottom and high banks, which the state is making navigable, for small steamers, to Fort Des Moines, 200 miles from its mouth. By the census of 1856, the number of paupers was only 132 out of a pop ulation of more than half a million. Population, in 1836, 10,531; in 1840 42,01/; in 1850, 192,214; in 1856, 509,000; in I860, 674 ; 948. Eastern view of Dubugve,from Dunleilh, 11L The view shows the appearance of Dubuque, as seen from the terminus of the Illinois Central Railroad on the eastern side of the Mississippi. On the left is the terminus of the Pacific and Dubuque Railroad. On the right the Shot Tower. Back of the principal part of the city are the bluffs, rising to a hight of about 200 feet. DUBUQUE, the largest city, and the first settled place in the state, is on the right or western bank of the Mississippi, 1,638 miles above New Orleans, 426 above St. Louis, and 306 below the Falls of St. Anthony. The city proper extends two miles on a table area, or terrace, immediately back of which rise a succession of precipitous bluffs, about 200 feet high. A small marshy island is in front of the city, which is being improved for business purposes. The beautiful plateau on which the city was originally laid out, being too limited for its growth, streets have been extended up and over the bluffs, on which many houses have been erected of a superior order, among which are numerous elegant residences. The Dubuque Female College ig IOWA. 373 designed to accommodate 500 scholars. The Alexander College, chartered in 1853, is located here, under the patronage of the Synod of Iowa. Sev- eral important railroads terminate at this place, which is the head-quarters and principal starting place for steamboats on the northern Mississippi. Nearly one third of the inhabitants speak the German language. Popula- tion 1860, 13,021. Mr. J. L. Langworthy, a native of Vermont, is believed to have been the first of the Anglo-Saxon race who erected a dwelling, and smelted the first lead westward of the Mississippi. He first came here in 1827. The first act resembling civil legislation, within the limits of Iowa, was done in Du- buque. Mr. Langworthy, with four others, H. P. Lander, James McPhee- ters, and Samuel H. Scales, having obtained permission to dig for mineral, entered into an agreement, dated July 17. 1830, by which each man should hold 200 yards square of ground, by working on said ground one day in six, and that a person chosen by a majority of the miners present, should hold the agreement, "and grant letters of arbitration. ' It appears, from an in- dorsement on the paper, that Dr. Jarrote held the articles, and was the first person chosen by the people in the territory to be clothed with judicial powers. In Oct., 1833, Mr. Langworthy and his brothers, with a few neigh- bors, erected the first school-house built in Iowa. It stood but a few rods from the Female College. The first brick building erected in Dubuque was in the summer of 1837, by Le Eoy Jackson, from Kentucky. This house is now standing on the corner of Iowa and Eleventh-streets, and is owned and occupied by William Rebinan, a native of Pennsylvania, who came to Dubuque in 183G, when a lad of 14 years, and acted as bodman to the ma- sons who erected the building. When Mr. R. came to this place, there were some 30 or 40 dwellings, many of them log cabins. The first religious ser- vices were held in a log structure, used by various denominations. The first school was kept by llev. Nicholas S. Bastion, a Methodist preacher; the school house stood on the public square, near the Centennial Methodist Church. It is said that the first lead discovered here was by Peosta, an In- dian chieftain or the wife of one, who presented it to Capt. Dubuque. The site of Dubuque was anciently known as the cornfields and place of mounds of the "Little Fox Village." It was named, in 1834, after Julian Dubuquc, an Indian trader, who settled here in 1788, and is generally con- sidered as the first white settler in Iowa. He is said to have been of French and Spanish parentage. He married into the Indian tribe, adopted their habits and customs, and became a great chief among them. He was of small stature, addicted to. the vices incident upon the commingling of Spanish and Indian races in America, and a great medicine man. "He would take live snakes of the most venomous kind into his arms and bosom, and was conse- quently regarded by the Indians with superstitious veneration. He died a victim to his vices, and was buried on a high bluff that overlooks the river, near the Indian village at the mouth of Catfish Creek." When his grave was visited by L. H. Langworthy, Esq., in 1830, a stone house, surmounted by a cedar cross, with a leaden door, stood over the spot. The remains of two Indian chiefs were also deposited within. The cross had a French in- scription, of which the following is a translation : "Julien Dubuque, miner, of the mines of Spain. Died this 24th day of March, 1810, aged 45 years 6 nio." The Indians, being instructed by Dubuque, worked the mines of lead here as early as 1800. About the year 1830, an Indian war, between the Sioux 374 IOWA. and the Sacs and Foxes, caused the latter to forsake their village here. Upon this the whites entered upon these lands, and several made their for- tunes in a single day, by striking upon a large lode. They were, however, foon ordered to recross the river by Zachary Taylor, commanding the United States forces at Prairie du Chien, as the territory had not yet been purchased of the Indians. After the Black Hawk purchase, the west side of the Mis- sissippi was opened for settlement. By 1834, several stores were erected; the mines increased in richness, and emigration rapidly advanced. For a time " Lynch Law " was the only one recognized. The first execution for murder was that of a man who shot his partner. ''Upon this event a court was organized, jury impanneled, trial had, criminal found guilty, and" after a short time being allowed the prisoner to prepare for death, he was executed. The gallows was erected upon the south-west corner of White and Seventh- streets, upon a mound, which was only removed for the large block that now fills its place. The population, at that time, amounted to over 1,000. nearly the whole of which were witnesses to the final act of that dreadful tragedy." The first newspaper issued here was by John King, Esq., under the fol- lowing title: " DUBUQUE VISITOR, Truth our Guide the public good our aim. Dubuque Lead Mines, Wisconsin Territory, May 16, 1836." In 1838, some attention was paid to agricultural pursuits. The soil prov- ing good, the prosperity of the place greatly increased. The exportations of lead that year exceeded 6,000,000 Ibs. In 1846, the lands adjoining Du- buque were brought into market, and the next year Dubuque was reincor- porated under its present charter. The population at that time was less than 3,000. "Below the 'Little Fox village,' is the bluff where the Sioux made their last and final stand against the Sacs and Foxes. It stands close upon the shore of the Mis- sissippi, with its perpendicular walls about two hundred feet in hight, and sloping back toward a low prairie, by which it is surrounded and terminates with an ab- rupt descent to this prairie." Here and there, scattered around it, are castellated rocks, which make it one of nature's fortifications. The Sioux were encamped on 'the summit of this bluff. In the night the Sacs and Foxes commenced ascending, and when near their enemy, by a fierce encounter, they secured the outposts, and in a very short time had so reduced the number of the Sioux, that those remaining, rather than have their scalps hang at their enemies' girdles, threw themselves headlong from the precipice and were dashed to pieces. At the present time, a few of the bones of those devoted warriors may be found in this their last resting place; and of late years, when the Indians visit this, spot, they cast pebbles and twigs from the summit upon the remains of those below." To the foregoing outline we annex these details from the Lectures of Lu- cius H. Langworthy, Esq., upon the History of Dubuque: In 1827, the speaker came to the mines, in company with a brother and two sisters, together with Mr. Meeker, on his return from Cincinnati, Maj. Hough, Capt. Donney and lady, and five or six others. We embarked at Quincy, Illinois, in a pirogue, and were thirty days on the voy- age. A pirogue is a kind of intermediate craft, between a canoe and a keel boat The name is French, and signifies the kind of boats used by the early voyageure to transport their furs and effects over the shoal waters and rapid streams of the west- ern wilderness. I mention the time occupied in our journey hither, in order to show some of the difficulties of settling this new country at that early period. Think of a boat's crew, with several ladies on board, all unaccustomed to the river, being compelled to work a boat up with poles and oars, against the swollen current of this mighty stream, in the hot weather of June, sleeping on sand bars, or anchored IOWA. 375 out in the river at night, to avoid the musquitoes, or lurking Indians, living upon salt pork and dry biscuit, coffee without cream or sugar, and withal making only about eight miles average per day. But this was then the land of promise, t-vs Cal- ifornia has since been. In July of that year, the Winnebago war commenced. Much alarm was spread over the country, and the people erected forts and block houses for defense, abandoning all other employments for the time. Col. Henry Dodgo led a company of miners against the Indians, at their town on Rock River. The village, however, was found deserted, and they returned after taking one lad prisoner. We crossed over the Mississippi at this time, swimming our horses by the side of a cunoe. Jt was the first flow, or the first tide of civilization on this western shore. There was not a white settler north of the Des Moines, and west of the Mississippi, to Astoria, on the Columbia River, with the exception of Indian traders. The Indians had all along guarded this mining district with scrupulous care. They would not allow the white people to visit the place, even to look at the old grass- grown diggings of Dubuque, which were known to exist here, much less would they permit mining to be done, or settlements to bo made. The country had just been abandoned by the red men, their moccasin tracks were yet fresh in the prairie trails along which the retiring race had fled on their mysterious mission westward, and the decaying embers were yet cooling on their deserted hearths within their now lonely and silent wigwams. Where Dubuque now stands, cornfields stretched along the bluffs, up the ravines and the Coule val- ley, and a thousand acres of level land skirting the shore, was covered with tall grass, as a field of waving grain. But the stalks of the corn were of the last year's growth, the ears had been plucked, and they were withered and blighted, left standing alone mournful representatives of the vanished race. A large village was then standing at the mouth of Catfish Creek, silent, solitary, deserted nothing re- mained to greet us, but the mystic shadows of the past. About seventy buildings, constructed with poles and the bark of trees, remained to tell of those who had so recently inhabited them. Their council house, though rude, was ample in its di- mensions, and contained a great number of furnaces, in which kettles had been placed to prepare the feasts of peace or war. But their council fires had gone out. On the inner surface of the bark there were paintings done with considerable artistic skill, representing the buffalo, elk, bear, panther, and other animals of the chase ; also their wild sports on the prairie, and even their feats in wars, where chief meets chief and warriors mix in bloody fray. Thus was retained a rude record of their national history. It was burned down in the summer of 1830, by some visitors in a spirit of vandalism, much to the regret of the new settlers. When the Indians mined, which was on special occasions, there were often fifty or a hundred boys and squaws at work on one vein. They would dig down a square hole, covering the entire width of the mine, leaving one side not perpendic- ular, but at an angle of about forty-five degrees, then with deer skin sacks attached to a bark rope they would haul out along the inclining side of the shaft the rock and ore. Their mode of smelting was by digging into a bank slightly, then put up flat rocks in a funnel shape, and place the ore within, mixed with wood; this all burnt together, and the lead would trickle down into a small excavation in the earth, of any shape they desired, and slowly cool and become fit for exportation. The lead manufactured here in early times, by Dubuque and the natives, found its way to St. Louis, Chicago, Mackinaw, and other trading ports, and some even into the Indian rifle in the war of 1812, in the woods of Indiana and Michigan. The mode of smelting adopted at first, by the white people, was by building a fur- nace somewhat like two large chimney places, set in a bank of earth, leaving an aperture in the lower side, for a circulation of air. In these, large logs of wood were placed like back-logs, back-sticks and fore-sticks all fitting together, then the mineral was placed on the logs, covered with finer wood, and the whole set on fire. Thus, in twenty-four hours, the lead would be extracted and run into cast-iron molds. About fifty per cent, of lead was obtained in this way, leaving scoriae and a waste of small pieces of ore to be run over in another furnace differently con- structed. In this last process, about fifteen per cent, was added to the first pro- duct Now, by the improved mode, of blast furnaces, about eighty-five per cent, ia 376 IOWA - obtained, showing that the ore is nearly pure, except only the combination of sul- phur with it, which is the inflammable material, and assists in the process of sepa- ration. As I have said, the speaker and an elder brother, in June of 1827, crossed the Mississippi in a canoe, swimming their horses by its side, landed for the first time on the western bank of the stream, and stood upon the soil of this unknown land. Soon after this, a number of miners crossed over the river, and possessed them- selves of these lands, thus left vacant; their mining operations proved eminently successful. About the fourth of July, Zachary Taylor, then commanding at Prairie du Chien, called upon the miners, in a formal and public manner, forbade their settlement, and ordered them to recross the river. This land was not yet purchased of the Indians, and, of course, came under the control of the war department. Captain Taylor, as he was then called, told the miners that it was his duty as a government officer, to protect the lands ; that such were the treaty stipulations, and that they must be off in one week. They declined doing this, telling the captain that he must surrender this time. They urged that they had occupied a vacant country, had struck some valuable lodes, that the land would soon be purchased, and that they intended to maintain possession; to which Zachary Taylor replied, " We shall see to that, my boys." Accordingly a detachment of United States troops was dispatched, with orders to make the miners at Dubuque walk Spanish. Anticipating their arrival, they had taken themselves off, for at that early day they believed that " rough " would be " ready " at the appointed time. The miners were anxiously peering from the high bluffs on the east side of the river as the steamer came in sight bringing the sol- diers, who were landed on the west shore. Three of the men, who had lingered too long, were taken prisoners. They were, however, soon released, or rather took themselves off. It is said that one of them, a large, fat man, by the name of Lem- ons, made his escape from the soldiers while at Galena, and taking the course of the high prairie ridge leading northerly, exhibited such astonishing speed, that the race has long been celebrated among the miners, as the greatest feat ever performed in the diggings. The military force was stationed permanently at Dubuque, and the Indians, ven- turing back to the place, sure 1 of safety and protection against their inveterate ene- my, the Sioux, and other intruders, were encouraged to mine upon the lodes and prospects which the white people had discovered. From one mine alone the In- dians obtained more than a million pounds of ore, in which they were assisted by the traders and settlers along the river, with provisions, implements, and teams. While the discoverers, those who had opened these mines again, after they were abandoned by them and the Spanish Tniners more than twenty years, were com- pelled to look across the water and see the fruits of their industry and enterprise consumed by the Indians. We lost, in this manner, more than twenty thousand dollars worth of mineral, which was taken from one lode by them. In September, 1832, a treaty was held at Rock Island, by General Scott and others, on the part of the government, and the Black Hawk purchase was agreed to. It included all the country bordering on the west side of the Mississippi River, comprising the eastern portion of our state. About this time, those who felt an interest in the mines of Dubuque, returned to take possession of their former dis- coveries. Many fine lodes and prospects were discovered, and considerable lead manufac- tured up to about January 25, 1833. I could here name many others who settled during this fall: Thomas McCraney, Whitesidcs, Camps, Hurd, Riley, Thomaa Kelly, etc. In fact there were more than two hundred allured here by the flatter- ing prospects of the country during this fall. But, in January, the troops were again sent down from Prairie du Chicn, and removed the settlers the second time, merely because the treaty by which the land was acquired had not been ratified by the United States senate, a formal act that every one knew would take place at the earliest opportunity. This was a foolish policy on the part of the government, and operated peculiarly hard upon the new settlers, who were thus obliged to leave their cabins in the cold winter of 1832-3, and their business also until spring. IOWA 377 In June, 1833, Mr. John P. Sheldon, arrived with a commission from the depart- ment at Washington, as superintendent of the mines, the military force having b?en previously withdrawn, and the treaty confirmed. He proceeded to grant written permits to miners, and licenses to smelters. These permits entitled tho holder to the privilege of staking off two hundred yards square of land wherever be chose, if not occupied by others, and have peaceful possession, by delivering his mineral to a licensed smelter, while the smelter was required to give a bond to the agent, conditioned to pay, for the use of the government, a fixed per centage of all the lead he manufactured. Mr. Sheldon continued to act in this capacity only about one year, for he could not be the instrument of enforcing this unjust and un- wise policy. He saw that these men, like all other pioneers, who, by their enterprise were opening up a new country, and fitting it for the homes of those who follow their footsteps, should be left, by a wise and judicious system, to the enjoyment of their hard earnings. The hidden wealth of the earth, its pine for- ests and surface productions, should alike be offered freely to all those who pene- trate the wilderness, and thus lay the foundation of future societies and states. It has been the policy of our government, at various times, to exact rent for all mineral, or pine lumber, taken from the public lands; which policy is wrong and should be forever abandoned; for the early settlers have privations and hardships enough, without encountering the opposition of their own government, especially these miners, many of whom had labored for years on the frontiers, cut off from khe enjoyments of home and all the endearments of domestic life. Your speaker eas, himself, one of these, being thrown in early life upon the crest of the wave -if western emigration, often beyond the furthest bounds of civilization, and not unfrequently amid the tragical scenes of border strife. Twenty-three years he la- bored, mostly in the mines, in different capacities, and during about half that pe; riod he has toiled in the deep, narrow caves and crevices, in the cold, damp ground, working upon his knees, sometimes in the water, and living like many other miners in "Bachelor's Hall," cooking his own food, and feeling secluded from society and far from the circle and associations of youthful friendship. Under such privations, he felt the demand of a heavy tax, by the government, to be oppressive indeed, and he would be wanting in consistency and spirit, if he had not, on all proper occa- sions, protested against a system that seems much more regal than republican, and which degrades the western pioneer to the condition of a tenant at will of the gen- eral government. In 18334, the town of Dubuque continued to improve. It now first received its name by a public meeting held for that purpose, and began to assume the appear- ance of a prosperous business place. At this time there were but very few men in the whole country who did not in- dulge in drinking and gambling. "Poker" and "brag" were games of common pastime, while the betting often run up to hundreds of dollars in a single sitting. It pervaded all classes; the merchants and other passengers, to and from St. Louis, while on the steamboats occupied their time chiefly in Jhis way, and it was consid- ered no disgrace to gamble. Balls and parties were also common, and it was not an unfrequent occurrence for one to treat his partner in the dance at the bar, if he ^id not, he generally performed that delicate and flattering attention to himself. 1'he Sabbath was regarded as a holiday, and vice and immorality were prevalent in every form. Yet amidst all this there were occasional gleams of moral sunshine breaking through the clouds of dissipation, and a brighter future lay before us. Upon the establishing of courts here, first under the jurisdiction of Michigan, then under that of Wisconsin Territory, matters assumed a more peaceful and quiet aspect But there were even then occasions of turbulence and bloodshed, in quarrels about lands and claims. Mr. Woodbury Massey lost his life in one of these diffi- culties. There were no courts of competent jurisdiction to try cases of crime, or rights to property. A long time intervened between the withdrawal of the gov- ernment protection and the establishment of civil laws by local authority. No survey of the public lands had yet been made, and in the transition from the old to the new state of things, misunderstandings naturally arose. Under the gov- ernment rules and regulations for the control of the mines, it was necessary to 378 work and have mining tools almost continually on the land claimed, in order to se- cure possession; under the new order of things there were no uniform customs pre- vailing, regarding possession of property; each man formed his own standard and was governed by his O'wn opinions. It was not surprising, then, that difficulties should arise. He who has passed through all the scenes and trials incident to the settlement of a new country, will not readily seek another distant frontier as a home. Woodhury Massey was the eldest of several brothers and a sister, all left orphans in early life. Himself and family were members and the chief founders of the first Methodist Church erected in this city; a man of fine education, polite and amiable in his disposition, one of our first merchants, and possessing a large share of popular favor. He was enterprising in business, and upright in all his. dealings. Had he lived, he would no doubt have proved a main pillar and support in our young community. But in an evil hour he became the purchaser of a lot or lode, called the Irish lot, near where Mr. McKenzie now lives. It appeared that a Mr. Smith, father and son, had some claim on this lot or lode. They were the exact opposite to Mr. Massey, in character and disposition. A suit before a magistrate grew out of this claim, and the jury decided the property to belong to Mr. Massey. It being a case of forcible entry and detainer, the sheriff, as was his duty, went with the latter to put him again in possession of the pre- mises. When they arrived upon the ground, the two Smiths, being secreted among the diggings, rose up suddenly, and firing their guns in quick succession, Mr. Massey was shot through, the heart His family, living near by, saw him fall, thus early cut down in the prime of his life and usefulness, a victim to the unsettled state of the times, and the ungoverned passions of turbulent men. The perpetrators of this deed were arrested and held in confinement until the session of the circuit court, at Mineral Point, Judge Irving presiding. Upon the trial, the counsel for the defense objected to the jurisdiction of the court, which was sustained by the judge, and accordingly the prisoners were discharged and let loose upon society They, however, left this part of the country for a time. One of the younger brothers of Mr. Massey, highly exasperated by this transac- tion, that no trial could be obtained for such offenders, had determined, it seems, that should the elder Smith ever come in his way, he would take the punishment for the murder of his brother into his own hands. One day, while sitting in his shop at Galena, he chanced to see Smith walking the public streets of the place, when, instantly snatching a pistol and hastening in the direction, he fired upon him with fatal aim. Thus Smith paid the forfeit of his life by intruding again among the friends of the murdered man, and in the community which had wit- nessed the scenes of his violence. For this act of the younger brother, there seems to have been the broadest char- ity manifested. He was never tried, or even arrested, and still lives in ihe coun- try, a quiet man, and greatly respected by all who know him. The death of the father, of course, soon brought the younger Smith to the mines. It was understood privately that he determined to shoot one or the other of the surviving brothers at the very first opportunity. He was known to be an excellent shot with a pistol, of imperious disposition and rash temper. These rumors finally reached the ears of the fair haired, blue eyed sister, who was thus made to believe that he would carry his threats into execution. She was just verging into woman- hood, with fresh susceptibilities, and all of her deep affections awakened by the . surrounding difficulties of the family. One day, without consulting others, she de- termined, by a wild and daring adventure, to cut off all chances of danger in that direction. Disguising herself for the occasion, and taking a lad along to point out the person she sought, having never seen him herself, she went into the street Passing a store by the way side, the boy saw Smith and designated him from the other gentlemen in the room by his clothing. On seeing him thus surrounded by other men, one would suppose that her nerves would lose their wonted firmness. He was well armed and resolute in character, this she knew; yet stepping in amidst them all, in a voice tremulous with emotion and ominous in its tones, she exclaimed, "If you are Smith, defend yourself." In an instant, as he arose, sba IOWA. 379 pointed a pistol at his breast and fired; he fell, and she retired as suddenly as she appeared. It was all done so quickly, and seemed so awful that the specta- tors stood, bewildered at the tragical scene, until it was too late to prevent the dis- aster. It so happened that Mr. Smith had, at the tim.e, a krge wallet filled with papers in his breast pocket. The ball striking about its center did not of course pene- trate all of the folded leaves, and thus providentially his lif was spared. Smith, soon recovering from the stunning effects, rushed into the street to meet his assailant; but she had fled and found shelter at the house of Mr. Johnson, a substantial merchant of the town, and was subsequently sent away, by her friends here, to some relatives in Illinois, where she was afterward married to a Mr. Wil- liamson, formerly of this place. Her name, Louisa, has been given to one of the counties in our State. Smith lived several years, but the wounds probably has- tened his death. She is also dead, and it is to be hoped that God's mercy has fol- lowed them beyond earth's rude strifes, and that they dwell in peace in a purer and better world. Ruins of Camanche, Clinton county. After the Great Tornado of June 3, ISiiO. Engraved from a view taken by photograph. The west has, at various periods of its history, been subject to severe tor- nadoes, which have carried ruin and devastation in their course. The most terrible ever known, was that which swept over eastern Iowa and western Illi- nois, on the evening of Sunday, June 3, 1860. It commenced about five miles beyond Cedar llapids, in Linu county, Iowa, and stopped near Elgin, Illinois, thus traversing a distance of nearly 200 miles. It varied in width from half a mile to two miles. It was of the nature of a whirlwind, or as> some eye witnesses aver of two whirlwinds, moving in the same direction and near each other, which in shape resembled a funnel. The larger villages between Cedar llapids and the Mississippi, were out of the course of this fearful de- etroyer; but "much property was damaged, and more than fifty lives lost be- fore reaching the river. The town of Camanche, on the Mississippi, in Clin- ton county, about 70 miles below Dubuque, was utterly destroyed, and New Albany, opposite it on the Illinois side, nearly ruined. It was stated in the 33 380 IOWA - prints of the time, that, by this terrible calamity, 2,500 persons had been rendered houseless and homeless, and about 400 killed and wounded. The account of this event is thus given in the Fulton Courier: The storm reached Camanche at 7.30 P.M., with a hollow, rumbling noise her- alding its approach, which sounded like a heavy train of care passing over a bridge. Moving with the velocity of lightning, it struck the devoted town, and the fearful work of havoc commenced. The scene that followed, as given by eye witnesses, can neither be imagined nor described. Amidst the roar of the tempest, the rust- ling of the wind, the reverberating peals of thunder, the vivid flashes of lightning, the pelting of the rain, the crash of falling buildings, the agonizing shrieks of ter- ror stricken women and children, the bewildered attempts to escape, and the moans of the dying, but little opportunity was left to observe the general appear- ance of the blow. Parents caught their children in their arms and rushed frantic for any place that seemed to promise safety. Many found refuge in cellars, which to others proved graves. So sudden was the shock that many in the upper parts of buildings wero left no time to flee to other parts. To go outside was as hazardous as to remain within. The turbulent air was filled with fragments of lumber, furniture, and trees, flying in every direction, with the force of cannon balls. Amidst such intense excitement, attended with such fatal consequences, momenta seem years. But from statements, that beyond doubt are correct, the storm did not rage less than two and a half, nor more than five minutes. It would seem impos- sible, on looking at the devastation, to suppose it the work of so short a time. Darkness immediately closed over the scene, and left a pall over the town only equaled by the darker gloom that draped the hearts of the survivors of the disaster. At Albany, heavy warehouses were lifted entire, and removed some considerable distance, strong brick and stone buildings entirely demolished, while the lighter frame dwelling houses were, in most cases, entirely swept away. We could not estimate the whole number of buildings injured, but could learn of not over three houses in the whole town that were not more or less damaged most of them de- stroyed. The ground was strewed with fragments of boards. The hotel kept by Captain Barnes was not moved from its foundation, but part of the roof and inside partitions were carried away. The brick (Presbyterian) church was leveled to the ground, and the Congregational much injured. The brick and stone houses seemed to afford but little more protection than the frame, and when they fell gave, of course, less chance of escape. But one place of business (Mr. Pease s) was left in a condition to use. The buildings, household furniture, provisions, and every- thing in fact, in most instances, were swept beyond the reach of recovery. The ferry-boat was lifted from the water and laid upon the shore. Cattle, horses, and hogs, were killed or driven away by the irresistible element. The loss of life, how- ever, was far less than could have been expected. But five persons were killed, and perhaps fifty or sixty injured. Camanche was almost completely destroyed. A very few buildings were, as if by miracle, left standing, but even these were more or less injured. The ground was covered with splinters, boards, furniture, etc., completely shivered to pieces. Nothing perfect or whole was to be seen, but everything looked as though it had been riven by lightning. The larger trees were blown down: while on tho smaller ones that would yield to the wind, were to be seen tattered pieces of cloth- ing, carpets, pillows, and even mattresses, nearly torn to shreds. The river below was covered with marks of the storm, and much property was lost by being swept into the water. The general appearance of the ground was much like the traces left by a torrent where flood-wood is left lying in its path. Where buildings onoe stood is now a mass of unsightly ruins. It is with difficulty that the lines of the former streets can be traced. Frame houses were swept away or turned into every conceivable variety of positions. Dead animals were left floating in the river or lying among the ruins. The feathers on the poultry were even stripped from their bodies. Everything was so completely scattered and destroyed that it was useless IOWA. 381 to attempt to recover anything, and the citizens could only sit down in despair. Until 12 M. of Monday, the work of exhuming the bodies from the fallen ruins was still progressing. In one room that we visited, the bodies of children and females were lying (ten or twelve in number), clothed in their white winding sheets. It was a sight that we pray may never again be ours to witness. The little children, in particular, had but few face injuries, and lay as if sleeping. In all, thirty-eight persons were reported missing at Camanche, and thirty-two bodies have been found. About eighty were reported as wounded, some of whom have since died. Information has been received which furnishes us with reliable accounts of 139 deaths caused by the tornado along the line of the Iowa and Ne- braska road, including Camanche. On the Illinois side of the river the loss of life has not been quite so great, but we think we are safe in putting the total num- ber of killed at 175. The wounded are by far more numerous, while the loss of property can not be definitely estimated. We hear of150 cattle in one yard in Iowa that were all destroyed. Farm houses, fences, crops, railroad cars, and all property that fell in the path of the tornado, were left in total ruin. There were hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of property destroyed, much of which will never be reported. The tornado commenced in Linn county, Iowa, and stopped, as near as we can learn, in the vicinity of Elgin, Illinois. It, of course, would carry objects some- times in opposite directions, moving as it did with the motion of a whirlwind. We saw one house that had been lifted from its foundation, and carried two hundred feet in a course directly contrary to the regular course of the tornado. The escapes in all the places where the storm passed, were often truly miracu- lous. In Albany, Mr. Slaymaker had repaired to the church for the purpose of ringing the bell for worship, but seeing the appearance of a heavy rain approach- ing, concluded not to ring it. Had the congregation been called together it would have been certain death to all, as the walls of the church, being built of brick, fell on the inside. We saw a small house that had been carried several rods with three persons in it, and set down without damage to the house or inmates. A little daughter of Mr. Swett was lying on a bed, and was blown with it twenty rods into a grove, from whence it came unharmed, calling for its mother. An infant son of Mrs. Joseph Riley was buried beneath her, and it is thought that her own weight upon it was the cause of its death. One family took refuge in a meal chest, which, fortunately, proved strong enough to protect them from a mass of rubbish that covered them. Mrs. Oliver M'Mahan fell in a place where the floor of the first story had been previously partly broken, producing a sag or bend. The joists fell over her, but were long enough to reach over the bend, and thus saved her life. Mr. Effher had at one time been safely secure in his cellar, but going up for some- thing to shield his child from the cold, was killed instantly. We saw two children who were killed in the arms of their mothers. At Camanche, the first story of a hardware store, with its contents, was carried into the river and lost, while the up- per part of the building dropped down square upon the foundation as though placed there by mechanics. A child was blown from fifteen miles west of Camanche to that place and landed uninjured. One man in Iowa was taken up 200 feet A family on a farm took refuge in a "potato hole," where they remained secure; but the house they left was completely demolished. Pieces of boards were picked up eight and ten miles from Albany, in both north and south directions. A wagon was lifted into the air, broken to pieces, and the tire of one of the wheels twisted out of all shape. Nine freight cars, standing on the track at Lisbon, were blown some distance from the place they were standing. The tornado raised immediately over the house of Mr. Minta, in Garden Plain, and descended to strike the next house beyond. We noticed that those living in frame houses metwith less loss of life than the inmates of brick or stone houses. A passenger from the west informs us that a small boy was blown across Cedar River, and his mangled body left in the forks of a tree. In one family all that was left were three little girls, the father and mother and two children having been instantly killed. We saw where a fence board had been forced clear through the side of a house, endwise, and hundreds of shingles had forced themselves clear through the clapboards of a house. 382 IOWA. Another eye witness says: A chimney, weighing about two tuns, was broken off at its junction with the roof, lifted into the air, and hurled down into the front yard, burying itself in the ground a depth of three feet, without breaking or crack- ing a single brick. A light pine shingle was driven from the outside through the clapboards, lath and plaster, and projects two inches from the inside wall of a dwell- ing house. No other known force could have accomplished this. A common trowel, such ns is used by masons, was driven through a pine knot in the side of a barn, projecting full two inches. In one spot was found a large pile of book covers, every leaf from which was gone, and twisted into a thousand shapes. Leaves were stripped of their tissue, leaving the fibers clean and bare as if a botanist had neatly picked it off. Tree trunks were twisted several times round until they were broken off. The Millard House, a three story brick structure, fronting north, was lifted up from its foundation and turned completely round, so that the front door faced the south. It then collapsed, and seemed to fall outwardly as if in a vacuum, and, strange to relate, out of seventeen persons in the house, only two were killed. One house upon the bank was lifted from its foundation and whirled into the river, crushing as it fell and drowning three persons, the inmates. A piano was taken out of a house in the center of the town, and carried some distance to the river bank without breaking it. The effects upon some of the houses near Camanche, which were in the outer edge of the tornado, were very curious. Upon some roofs the shingles were stripped off in faciful shapes, a bare spot upon one roof exactly resembling a fig- ure 8. Some roofs were entirely unshingled, and in some cases every clapboard was torn off. The sides of some houses were literally perforated with boards, splintered timbers and sharp stakes. In some parts of Camanche, where houses stood thickly clustered together, there is not a vestige of one left. Another tract of about forty acres is covered with splinters about two feet in length. The lower stories of some houses were blown out entirely, leaving the upper story upon the ground. The town is entirely ruined, and we do not see how it can ever be re- built. There are whole blocks of lots that are vacant entirely, with nothing but the cellar to indicate that a house ever stood there. The whole atmosphere around the place is sickening, and a stench is pervading the whole path of the storm that is almost impossible to endure. DAVENPORT, a flourishing city, the county seat of Scott, is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Mississippi, at the foot of the upper rapids, opposite the town of llock Island, with which it is connected by a most mag- nificent railroad bridge, the first ever built over the Mississippi.- The great railroad running through the heart of the state, and designed to connect the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, has its eastern terminus at Davenport. The city is 330 miles above St. Louis, and 100 below Galena. The rapids ex- tend 20 miles above this place, and the navigation of the river is somewhat obstructed by them during the time of low water. The city is built on ground which rises gradually from the water, with a chain of rounded hills in the back ground. Pop- 1860, 11,268. The city derived its name from Col. George Davenport, who was born in England, in 1783. He came to this country when a young man, entered the U. S. army as sergeant, and saw considerable service, on the frontier, in the war of 1812. After the war, he settled on Hock Island, opposite this town, and engaged in trading with the Indians. That vicinity was densely settled by them. The village of Black Hawk was there in the forks of Rock River and the Mississippi. He carried on the fur trade very exten- sively for many years, establishing trading posts at various points. On the 4th of July, 1845, a band of robbers entered his beautiful residence in the middle of the day, in the absence of his family, and in robbing, accidentally IOWA. 383 shot him. He died the same night. All of the murderers were taken, three were hung and two escaped. Mr. Davenport was of a very free and gener- ous disposition, jovial and fond of company. Wherever he went a crowd assembled around him to listen to his anecdotes and stories. He never sued Southern view of Davenport, from ihe, Rock Island Ferry. The Steamboat Landing and Flouring Mill is seen in the central part. The Railroad Depot and A. Le- Claire's residence, on an elevation in the distance, on the right. The Iowa College building on the left. any one in his life, and could not bear to see any one in distress without try- ing to relieve them. The biographer of Col. Davenport gives these inci- dents: During the Black Hawk war Mr. Davenport received a commission from Gov. Reynolds, appointing him acting quartermaster general, with the rank of colonel. In the latter part of tho summer of 1832, the cholera broke out among the troops* on the island, and ranged fearfully for about ten days; one hundred died out of a population of four hundred ; every person was dreadfully alarmed. An incident occurred during this time which will show the state of feeling. Mr. Davenport, Mr. LeClaire, and a young officer were standing together in front of the store one morning. The officer had been giving them an account of the number of deaths and new cases, when an orderly came up to them with a message from Gen. Scott to Mr. LeClaire, requesting him to come down to the fort as soon as possible. Mr. LeClaire looked at Mr. Davenport to know what excuse to make. Mr. Davenport, after a moment, replied to the orderly to tell Gen. Scott that Mr. LeClaire could not come, as he was quite sick. The officer and orderly laughed heartily at Mr. Davenport and Mr. LeClaire being so much alarmed; but next morning the first news they received from the fort, was, that these two men were dead. At the time the cholera broke out at Fort Armstrong, there were two Fox chiefs confined in the guard-house for killing the Menomonies at Prairie du Chien, and had been given up by their nation as the leaders, on the demand of our govern- ment, and were awaiting their trial. Mr. Davenport interceded for them with the commanding officer, to let them out of their prison, and give them the range of the island, with a promise that they should be forthcoming when they were wanted. The Indians were released, and they pledged their word not to leave the island 384 IOWA - until permitted to do so by the proper authorities. During all the time the fearful epidemic raged on the island, and every person was fleeing from it that could get away, these two chiefs remained on the island, hunting and fishing, and when the sickness had subsided, they presented themselves at the fort to await their trial, thus showing how binding a pledge of this kind was with this tribe of Indians. Mr. Davenport, for many years, was in the habit of crediting the chiefs of the dif- ferent villages for from fifty to sixty thousand dolla/s worth of goods annually, having nothing but their word pledged for the payment of them, which they always faithfully performed. The following extracts relative to the early history of Davenport, are from Wilkie's History of the city : " In the year 1833, there were one or two claims made upon the lands now occupied by the lower part of the city. The claim upon which the city was first laid out was contended for by a Dr. Spencer and a Mr. McCloud. The matter was finally settled by Antoine LeClaire buying them both out: giv- ing them $150. . . . Having fenced in this portion, Mr. LeClaire cul- tivated it until it was sold to a company in 1835. In the fall of this year, a company was formed for the purchasing and laying out a town site. They met at the house of Col. Davenport, on Rock Island, to discuss the matter. The following persons were present: Maj. Wm. Gordon, Antoine LeClaire, Col. Geo. Davenport, Maj. Thos. Smith, Alex. McGregor, Levi S. Colton, and Philip Hambaugh. These gentlemen, with Capt. James May, then in Pitts- burg, composed the company which secured the site In the spring of the next year, the site was surveyed and laid out by Maj. Gordon, U. S. surveyor, and one of the stockholders. The cost of the en- tire site was $2,000 or $250 per share. In May the lots were offered at auc- tion. A steamboat came up from St. Louis, laden with passengers to attend the sale, which continued for two days. Some 50 or 60 lots only were sold, mostly to St. Louis speculators, at from $300 to $GOO each. The remaining portion of the site was divided among the proprietors. The emigra- tion this year was small, only some half dozen families coming in. The first tavern was put up this year and opened by Edward Powers, on the corner of Front and Ripley-streets. It was built by Messrs. Davenport and Le- Claire, and was called "Davenport Hotel." A log shanty drinking saloon was also put up, which stood on Front-street, below the Western-avenue. It was long a favorite resort of the politician and thirsty. . . . James Mackintosh opened the first store, and commenced business in a log house near the U. S. House, corner of Ripley and Third-streets. . . . Lumber at that time was brought from Cincinnati, and almost everything else from a distance. Flour at $16 per barrel; pork at 16 cents per pound, were brought from that city. Corn was imported from Wabash River, and brought $2 per bushel The ferry dates its existence from this year it being a flat bottomed craft, technically called a " mud-boat." This, in 1841, was superseded by a horse-boat, which in time gave way to steam. . The first child born in Davenport, was in 1841, a son of L. S. Colton. . . The first law office was opened by A. McGregor. The first religious dis- course was delivered by Rev. Mr. Gavitt, a Methodist, at the house of D. C. Eldridge. Preaching also from an Episcopalian tne same spring. Reli- gious services were held occasionally, in which a priest from Galena officiated. . . . The pioneer ball was held at Mr. LeClaire's, Jan. 8, 1838. Some forty couples were present, consisting of frontier men, officers from the island, and others. The music was furnished by fiddles, from which IOWA. 385 no contemptible strains were occasionally drawn by Mr. LcClairc himself. . . The party danced till sunrise, then broke up the gentlemen being, as a general thing, as genial as all the "punches" they could possibly contain, would make them. In the summer of 1836, Mr. A. LeClaire was appointed postmaster. Mails came once a week from the east, and once in two weeks from Dubuque. The postmas- ter used to carry the mail across the river in his pocket, and the per centage for the first three months was seventy-Jive cents. In September, a treaty was held at East Davenport, between Gov. Dodge, U. S. commissioner, and the Sacs and Foxes. The object of the treaty was to secure possession of the land bordering on the Iowa River, and known as "Keokuk's Reserve." About one thousand chiefs and warriors were present, and were encamped during the time just above Renwick's mill This was the last treaty ever held in this vicinity. There were seven houses at the close of this year. Ihere was a frame dwelling partly finished and owned by a Mr. Shields. It has been since known as the "Dillon House" {of which a gentleman, since governor of the state, was once hostler). The year t (1836) closed with a population of less than one hundred. Stephenson (now Rock Island) which had been laid out in 1834, had at this time a population of nearly five hundred The first duel "on record" in Iowa, was fought, in the spring of 1837, between two Winnebago Indians. These young men, in a carousal at Stephenson, com- menced quarreling, and finally resorted to the code of honor. One had a shot gun, the other a rifle. On the Willow Island, below the city, at the required distance they fired at each other. The one with the shot gun fell, and was buried not far from the graveyard below the city. The survivor fled to his home in the Rock River country. The friends and relations of the slain clamored for the blood of the slayer, and the sister of the latter went for the survivor. She found him en- treated him to come back to Rock Island and be killed, to appease the wrathful manes of the deceased. He came in a canoe paddled by his own sister singing his death song. A shallow grave was dug, and kneeling upon its brink, his body tumbled into it, and his death song was hushed, as the greedy knives of the exe- cutioners drank the blood of his brave heart. Dr. A. E. Donaldson, from Pennsylvania, came in July, 1837, and was, it is stated, the first regular physician. The religious services, for this year, and for a year or two afterward, were held in a house belonging to D. C. Eldridge. Clergymen of various denominations officiated. In 1838, during the summer, the first brick house was erected by D. C. Eldridge, standing on the S.E. corner of Main and Third- streets. Nearly at the same time, the brick building now used by the Sisters, in Catholic block, was completed as a church. A long controversy between Rouking- ham and Davenport, respecting the location of the county-seat, was terminated in favor of the latter, in 1840, by the citizens of Davenport agreeing to construct the court house and jail, free of expense to the county. The celebrated " Missouri War'' is ascribed to about this date. It arose fron*a dispute in regard to boundary two lines having been run. The northern one cut off a strip of Iowa some six or eight miles in width, and from this portiou Mis- souri endeavored to collect taxes. The inhabitants refused to pay them, and the Missouri authorities endeavored, by sending a sheriff, to enforce payment. A fight ensued, and an lowan was killed, and several taken prisoners. The news spread along the river counties, and created intense excitement. War was supposed to be impending, or to have actually begun. Col. Dodge, an individual somewhat noted as the one who, in connection with Theller, had been imprisoned by the Canadian authorities for a participation in the " Patriot War," had lately arrived here, after breaking jail in Canada. His arrival was opportune a call for volunteers to march against Missouri was circu- lated, and was responded to by some three hundred men, who made Davenport their rendezvous on the proposed day of marching. A motley crowd was it! Arms were of every kind imaginable, from pitchforks to blunderbusses, and Queen Anno muskets. One of the colonels wore a common rust}' grass scythe for a sword, while Capt. Higginson, of company A, had been fortunate enough to find an ola 25 386 JOVYA. sword that an Indian had pawned for whisky, which he elegantly belted around him with a heavy log chain. The parade ground was in front of the ground now occupied by the Scott House. Refreshments were plenty, and ''steam" was being rapidly developed for a start, when word came that peace was restored Missouri having resigned her claim to the disputed ground. The army was immediately disbanded, in a style that would do honor to the palmiest revels of Bacchus. Speeches were made, toasts drunk, and a host of maneuvers, not in the military code, were performed, to the great amusement of all. Some, in the excess of patriotism and whisky, started on alone to Missouri, but lay down in the road before traveling far, and slept away their valor. St Anthony's Church, the first erected, was dedicated May 23, 1839, by Rt. Rev. Bishop Loras, of Dubuque. The Catholic Advocate thus states, "Mr. Antoine Le- Claire, a wealthy Frenchman, and a zealous and exemplary Christian, in partner- ship with Mr. Davenport, has granted to the Catholic congregation, in the very cen- ter of the town, a whole square, including ten lots, erecting, partly at his own ex- pense, a fine brick church with a school room attached." The Rev. Mr. Pelamourgues, who first assumed charge of the church, still retains it. The First Presbyterian Church was established in the spring of 1838, pastor, James D. Mason ; the Davenport Congregational Church was organized July 30, 1839, by Rev. Albert Hale; their present church building was erected in 1844. The first regular services of the Protestant Episcopal Church were commenced here Oct. 14, 1841, by Rev. Z H. Goldsmith. The corner stone of the present edifice of Trinity Church was laid, by Bishop Kemper, May 5, 1852. The Metho- dist Episcopal Church was established June 1, 1842; the First Baptist Church was established in 1839, N. S. Bastion, pastor; the German Congregation was estab- lished July 19, 1857, A. Frowein, pastor; "Church of Christ,' or Disciples Church established July 28, 1839. The first newspaper was the " Iowa Sun and Davenport and Rock Island News," issued in Aug., 1838, by Alfred Sanders. It was continued till 1841, when it was succeeded by the "Davenport Weekly Gazette." The "Weekly Banner" was started in 1848, by A. Montgomery; in 1855, it was bought by Messrs. Hildreth, Richardson & West, and was changed to the " Iowa State Democrat." The " Even- ing News," daily and weekly, was started by Harrington & Wilkie, Sept., 1856. The "Der Demokrat" (German) was established, by T. Guelich, in 1851. Bellevue, the capital of Jackson county, is on the Mississippi, 12 miles below Galena. It is one of the oldest towns in the state, having been first settled in 1836, by J. D. Bell. The location being a beautiful one, had long been a favorite spot with the Indians. The population in 18GO was about 1.500. The following interesting narrative of some incidents which took place here in the early settlement of the place is given to us by Wm. A. Warren Esq. He was the sheriff in command of the posse of citizens, some of whom it will be seen lost their lives in their efforts to restore law .and order. In the year 1836, was organized a band of horse-thieves, counterfeiters, and high- way robbers, having their head-quarters near Elk Heart, Michigan, and extending their ramifications in all directions from that point, many hundred miles. The Rock River valley, Illinois, and the settled portions of what is now Iowa, were the chief points of their operations, although the band extended through Kentucky, Missouri, and even to the Cherokee Nation. Their organization was complete. They had their pass words, and other means of recognition. No great master spirit controlled the whole organization, as is usually the case in criminal associations of that nature. The leaders were those whose education rendered them superior to the instincts of the half savage settlers with whom they were associated. , Their method of doing business, and escaping detection, was &s follows : B. 8 IOWA 387 band, in Iowa, would "spot" certain horses and other "plunder," and arrange to make a foray on some particular night. A., in Missouri, having obtained tlio knowledge of this, would start his band on a marauding expedition the same night. But those who were to do the plundering would make a feint to go north or south on a trading expedition, a day or two before the time fixed upon, and returning at night, would be carefully concealed until the proper time, when they would sally forth on the expedition in earnest. The two bands then meeting half way, would exchange the stolen property, and returning, dispose of the plunder, perhaps to the very persons whom they had robbed a few nights before. Storming of the Bellevne Hotel, by the Citizens. The engraving illustrates a scene in tli" early UNtnrv t Bellpvne. T!ie hotel of the town \vn occupied by a hand of outlaws, who had l>"en t!i terror of the whole c.-imtry for hundreds of miles diwtant. As they defied th authorities, the citizens were compelled to resort to anus. The stronghold \vs curried by storm, in which several were slain on each side. Those of the band who were merely accomplices, were careful to be visiting some honest neighbor on the night of the robbery, and thus avert suspicion from themselves. By this means, it will be seen, that detection was almost impossible, and suspicion unlikely t<> rest upon the re;il perpetrators. The then frontier village of Bellevue, was a central point on this route, and also the headquarters of one of the most numerous and powerful of the bands. Its leader, William Brown, was a man remarkable in many respects. Ho came to Bellevue in the spring of 183fi, and soon after brought out his family and opened a public house, which was destined to become famous in the village history. Brown, physically, was a powerful man. and in education superior to those around him. He possessed a pleasant, kindly address, and was scrupnlously honest in his every day's dealings with his neighbor**. It is said that none who reposed confi- dence in him in a business transaction ever regretted it. He was ably seconded bv hb wife, a woman of about "24 years of age. and of more than ordinary natural ..apac ty. They had but one child, a little girl of some four years of age. Kver ready to assist the destitute, the foremost in public improvements, this family soon Ixv.amt idolized by the rude population of that early day, so that nothing but pos- itive proof finally fastened suspicions of dishonesty upon them. Having, by his 388 IOWA - wiles, seduced a larger part of the young men into his band, and being daily rein- forced from other quarters, Brown became more bold in his operations, then threw off the mask, and openly boasted of his power and the inability of the authorities to crush him out. It was no idle boast. Fully two thirds of the able bodied men in the settlement were leagued with him. He never participated in passing coun- terfeit money, stealing horses, etc., but simply planned. Any man who incurred the enmity of the "gang," was very certain to wake some morning and find his crops destroyed, his horses stolen, and the marks of hia cattle having been slaughtered in his own yard; in all probability the hind quar- ters of his favorite ox would be offered for sale at his own door a few hours there- after. If one of his gang was arrested, Brown stood ready to defend him, with an argument not now always attainable by the legal profession he could, at a mo- ment's notice, prove an alibi. Thus matters went on, until it became apparent to the honest portion of the community that the crisis had arrived. As an instance of the boldness which they evinced, now the band had become BO powerful, we give an incident of the stealing of a plow from a steamboat. In the spring of 1839, a steamboat landed at Bellevue to wood ; the boat was crowded with passengers, and the hurricane deck covered with plows. It being a pleasant day, the citizens, old and young, according to custom, had sallied forth to the river side, as the landing of a steamboat was then by no means a daily occurrence. The writer of this, standing near Brown, heard him remark to a man, named Hapgood, and in the presence of numerous citizens, "that, as he (H.) had long wanted to join Brown s party, if he would steal one of those plows, and thus prove his qual- ifications, he should be admitted to full fellowship." Hapgood agreed to make the trial, and thereupon, to our surprise, as we had supposed the conversation to be merely in jest, he went upon the hurricane deck, and in the presence of the cap- tain, passengers, and citizens on shore, shouldered a plow and marched off the boat and up the levee. When on the boat, Hapgood conversed with the captain for a few minutes, and the captain pointed out to him which plow to take. In a few moments the boat was gone, and Hapgood boasted of the theft. It was sup- posed that he had bought the plow and paid the captain for it, but the next day, when the boat returned, there was great and anxious inquiry, by the captain, " for the man that took that plow," but he had disappeared, and remained out of sight until the boat was gone. About the same time another bold robbery occurred near Bellevue, the incidents of which so well illustrate the character of these ruffians, that we can not forbear recounting them. One Collins, a farmer, living about eight miles from town, came in one day and sold Brown a yoke of cattle for $80. Being a poor judge of money, and knowing Brown's character well, he refused to take anything in payment but specie. On his return home that evening, he placed his money in his chest. About midnight his house was broken open by two men, upon which he sprang from his bed, but was immediately knocked down. His wife coming to his rescue was also knocked down, and both were threatened with instant death if any more disturbance was made. The robbers then possessed themselves of Collins' money and watch and departed. In the morning he made complaint before a justice of the peace, ac- cusing two men in the employment of Brown with the crime. They were arrested and examined. On the trial, Collins and his wife swore positively to the men, and also identified a watch found with them as the one taken. In their possession was found $80 in gold, the exact amount stolen. A farmer living near Collins, testified that about 1 1 o'clock, on the night of the robbery, the accused stopped at hia house and inquired the way to Collins'. Here the prosecution closed their evidence, and the defense called three witnesses to the stand, among whom was Fox, after- ward noted as the murderer of Col. Davenport, all of whom swore positively that, on the night of the robbery, they and the accused played cards from dark till day- light, in Brown's house, eight miles from the scene of the robbery! In the face of the overwhelming testimony adduced by the state, the defendants were dis- charged I Another laughable instance, displaying the shrewdness and villainy of these fel- lows, occurred early in the spring of 1838. Godfrey (one of the robbers of Col- lins) came into town with a fine span of matched horses, with halter ropes around IOWA. 389 their necks. From the known character of their possessor, the sheriff thought best to take the horses into his custody. Brown's gang remonstrated, against the pro- ceedings, but to no effect. Subsequently a writ of replevin was procured, and tho horses demanded the sheriff refused to give them up. A general row ensued. The citizens, being the stronger party at that time, sustained the sheriff, and he maintained the dignity of his office.' Handbills, describing the horses accurately, were then sent around the county. A few days afterward, a stranger appeared in town, anxiously inquiring for the sheriff, and upon meeting him, he announced his business to be the recovery of a fine span of horses, which had been stolen from him a short time before, and then so accurately described those detained by the sheriff, that the latter informed him that he then had them in his stable. Upon examining them, the man was gratified to find that they were his; turning to the crowd, he offered $25 to any one who would produce Godfrey, remarking that, if he met him, he would wreak, his vengeance upon him in a summary. manner, without the intervention of a jury. Godfrey was not. however, to be found, and the horses were delivered to the stranger. Imagine the consternation of the sheriff, when, two days later, the true owner of the horses appeared in search of them! The other was an accomplice of God- frev, and they had taken that method of securing their booty. Similar incidents could be detailed to fill pages, for they were of continual occurrence. On the 20th of March, 1840, the citizens of Bellevue, not implicated in the plans of the horse-thieves and counterfeiters, held a meeting to consider the wrongs of the community. But one opinion was advanced, that the depredators must leave the place or summary vengeance would be inflicted upon them all. It was resolved that a warrant should be procured for the arrest of the whole gang, from Justice Watkins father of our present sheriff and, upon a certain day, the sheriff, accompanied by all the honest citizens as a posse, should proceed to serve the same. The warrant was issued upon the affidavit of Anson Harrington, Esq., one of our most respectable citizens, charging about half the inhabitants of the town Brown's men with the commission of crimes. A posse of 80 men was selected by the sheriff from among the best citizens of the county, who met in Bellevue on the first day of April, 1840, at 10 o'clock, A.M. Drown, in the mean time, had got wind of the proceedings, and had rallied a party of 23 men, whose names were on the warrant, and proceeded to fortify the Believue Hotel, and prepare for a vigorous defense. On the-sheriff s arriving in Bellevue with his party, he found a red flag streaming from the hotel, and a portion of Brown's men inarching to and fro in front of their fort, armed with rifles, present- ing a formidable appearance. A meeting of the citizens was then convened to consult upon the best method of securing the ends of justice, of which Major Thos. S. Parks was chairman. It was resolved that the sheriff should go to Brown's fort, with two men, and demand their surrender, reading his warrant, and assuring them that they should be pro- tented in their persons and property. It was also resolved, if they did not surren- der, to storm the house, and that Col. Thos. Cox, then a representative in the Iowa legislature, should assist the sheriff in the command of the party selected for this purpose. The sheriff then went to the hotel, accompanied by Messrs. Watkins and Ma- goon. When near the house, they were suddenly surrounded by Brown and a party of his men, all fully armed. They captured the sheriff, and ordered Watkins and Magoon to return and inform the citizens, that at the first attempt to storm the house, they would shoot the sheriff. Being conducted into the house, the sheriff read his warrant and informed them of the proceedings of the meeting. Just then it was discovered that Col. Cox, with a party of citizens, was rapidly advancing on the hotel. Upon the sheriff's promise to stop them and then return, he was re- leased by Brown. He met the party, and accosting Cox, requested him to delay the attack one hour, and if he (the sheriff) did not return by that time, for cbt-m to come on and take the house. Cox was determined the Sheriff should not return, saying that he should not keep his word with such a band of ruffians. Better counsels, however, prevailed, and the sheriff went back. On his return he found that Brown's meii had been 390 drinking freely to keep up their courage. After some parleying, Brown deter- mined m t to surrender, commanding the sheriff to return to his men and tell them to come < sn, and it' they succeeded in carrying the hotel, it should only be over their dead bodies. The sheriff returned and disclosed the result of his interview. Mrs. Brown, in the mean time, and a fellow called Buckskin, paraded the streets with a red flag. The citi/.ens were then addressed by Cox and Watkins, and it was finally deter- mined that a body of forty men should be selected to make the attack, upon which the posse started and charged upon the house at a full run. As our men entered the porch, the garrison commenced firing, but we being so near they generally over- shot their mark. At the first fire one of our best men. Mr. Palmer, was killed, and another, Mr. Vaughn, badly wounded. Brown opened the door and put out hia gun to shoot, when he was immediately shot down by one of our men. The battle then became desperate and hand to hand. After considerable hard fighting, the " balance " of the gang commenced their retreat through the back door of the house. They were surrounded and all captured but three. The result of the fight was, on the part of the counterfeiters the loss of five killed and two badly wounded; on the part of the citizens, four killed and eleven wounded. The excitement after the fight was intense. Many of the citizens were in favor of putting all the prisoners to death. Other counsels, however, prevailed, and a citizens' court was organized to try them. During the fight, Capt. Harris anchored his boat in the middle of the river, and remained there until the result was known, when the passengers ascended to the upper deck and jrave three hearty cheers. Doctors Finley, of Dubuque, and Cross- man, of Galena, were sent for, and were soon in attendance on the wounded of both parties. Much joy was manifested by the citizens at the breaking up of one of the most desperate gangs of housebreakers, murderers and counterfeiters, that ever infested the western country. The next morning a vote of the citizens was taken as to the disposal of the prisoners. AS the district court was not to meet for three months, and there being no jail in the county, and in fact none in the territory that was safe, and surrounded as we were on all sides, by offshoots of the same band, who could muster 200 men Jn a day's time to rescue them, it was deemed the merest folly to attempt to detain them as prisoners, and it was resolved to execute summary justice upon them. The question was then put, whether to hang or whip them. A cup of red and white beans was first passed around, to be used as ballots, the red for hanging, and the white for whipping. A breathless silence was maintained during the vote. In a few moments the result was announced. Jt stood forty two white and thirty eight red beans. The resolution to whip them was then unanimously adopted. Fox, afterward the mur- derer of Davenport, and several others made full confessions of many crimes, in which they had been engaged. The whole crowd of prisoners was then taken out and received from twenty-five to seventy five lashes apiece, upon their bare backs, according to their deserts. They were then put into boats and set adrift in the river, without oars, and under the assurance that a return would insure a speedy death. Animated by the example of Bellevue, the citizens of Rock River, 111., Linn, Johnson, and other counties, in Iowa, arose en masse, and expelled the gangs of robbers from their midst, with much bloodshed. Thus ended the struggle for supremacy between vice and virtue in Bellevue, which, from this day forth, has been as noted, in the Mississippi valley, for the morality of its citizens, as it was once rendered infamous by their crimes. BURLINOTON, a flourishing commercial city, the seat of justice for Des Moines county, is on the western side of the Mississippi, 45 miles above Kcokuk, 248 above St. Louis, and 1.429 above New Orleans. The city was organized under a charter from the Territory of Wisconsin, in 1838. It is IOWA. 391 regularly laid out and beautifully situated. Part of the city is built on the high grounds or bluffs, rising in some places about 200 feet above the river, try high grounds or blutts, rising in some places about ZOO feet above the river, affording a beautiful and commanding view of the surrounding coun- try: with the river, and its woody islands, stretching far away to the South-eastern view of Burlington. The view shows the appearance of the city, as seen from near the South Bluff: the eastern terminus of the Burlington and Missouri Railroad, Un; Court House, and other public buildings on the elevated ground In the distance, appear in the central part ; the North muff and Steamboat Landing on the right north and south. It has a variety of mechanical and manufacturing estab- lishments. The pork packing business is carried on extensively. It is the seat of the Burlington University, and contains 12 churches, in 1860, 6,706. inhabitants. The country for sixty miles around Burlington, sometimes called the "gar- den of Iowa," is very fertile. Near the city are immense quantities of gray limestone rock, suitable for building purposes. The first white person who located himself in Burlington, appears to have been Samuel S. White, a native of Ohio, who built a cabin here, in 1832, close to the river at the foot of the upper bluff. The United States, accord- ing lo the treaty with the Indians, not being then entitled to the lands west of the Mississippi, the dragoons from Fort Armstrong came down, burnt White out, and drove him over to the Illinois side of the river. He re- mained on Honey Creek till the 1st of the next June, when, the Indian title being extinguished, he returned and rebuilt his cabin near its former site. Mr. White was soon afterward joined by Amzi Doolittle, and in 1834, they laid out the first part of the town on the public lands. The survey of White and Doolittle was made by Benjamin Tucker and Dr. Wm. R. Ross. Their bounds extended down to Hawkeye Creek. White and Doolittle afterward sold out all their lands and removed. The first addition to this tract was made by Judge David Rorer, a native of Virginia, in April, 1836, who had emigrated the month previous. In July of this year, he built the first brick building ever erected in Iowa. Judge R. laid the first brick with his own hands. This building stood on what is now lot 438, the next corner north 392 IOWA. of Marion Hall. This dwelling was taken down by Col. Warren, in 1854 or '55. The first location made outside the town, was by a settler named To- thero, whose cabin was about three miles from the river; this was previous to June, 1833. He was consequently driven off by the drag:>ons, and his cabin destroyed. The town was named by JoRn Gray, a native of Burlington, Vermont, and brother-in-law to White, the first set- tler. The Flint Hills were called by the Indians Sliolcokon, a word in their language signifying " flint hills ; " these bluffs are generally about 150 feet above the river. .Burlington became the county seat of Des Moines in 1834, under the jurisdiction of Michi- gan. In 1836 it was made the seat of government of Wisconsin Territory, and in the fall of 1837, the legislature of that territory first met at Burling- ton. When Iowa Territory was formed in 1838. Burlington became the seat of government. The building in \vhich the legislative assembly first met stood on the river bank, just north of Colum- bia-street. It was burnt down ?oon afterward. At the first court he,d in Burlington, three divorces were granted, one conviction for assault and bat- tery, and one fine for contempt of court. The record does not show the grounds of contempt, but from other sources we learn i,t was a rencounter in open court, in which the tables of the judges, being dry goods boxes and barrels with planks laid across, were overturned. The hero of the occasion was afterward taken prisoner in the Santa Fe expedition from Texas. Dr. Ross and Maj. Jeremiah Smith, who came to Burlington in 1833, were the first merchants. The first church (the Methodist Old Zion) was erected the same year, and is believed to have been the first house of worship erected in Iowa. In this venerable structure, which is still standing, the legislative body have met and courts have been held. The "Iowa Territorial Gazette," the first newspaper, was issued in the summer of 1837, by James Clarke, from Pennsylvania, who was subsequently governor of the territory. The second paper was the "Iowa Patriot," afterward the "Hawkeye," by James G. Edwards, of Boston. The Iowa Historical and Geological Society was or- ganized in 1843, and is the oldest literary society in the state. JUDGE ROBER'S HOUSE. The first brick building erected in Iowa. The following inscriptions are from monuments in the Aspen Grove Cem- etery, at the N.W. border of the city: Here lie the mortal remains of JAS. CLARKE, founder of the first Newspaper in Burling- ton, Member of the first Constitutional Convention, Secretary and Governor of the Territo- ry of Iowa. Born July 5, 1812; died July 28, 1850 Mv Husband and our Father, ABXER LEONARD, minister of the Gospel, born Dec. 13, 1787, in Washington Co., Pa.; died Oct. 30, 1856. Now with my Savior, Brother, Friend, A blest Eternity I'll spend, Triumphant in his grace. IOWA. 393 In memory of KEV. HORACE HUTCHIMSON, late Pastor of the Congregational Church, of Burlington. He was born at Button, Mass., Aug. 10, 1817. Graduated at Arnherst Colloge ; 1839, and at Andover Theological Seminary in 1843. He died March 7, 1846. Sacred to the memory of REV. SAMUEL PAYN T E, Missionary, native of New Jersey, who departed this life, Jan. 8, 1845, aged 38 years, 6 mo. and 17 days. Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord from henceforth : yea saith the spirit, that they may rest from their labors ; and their works do follow them. Rev. xiv, 13. In memory of REV. THOMAS SCHULTZ, German Missionary of the Methodist Church ; born July 11, 1821; died March 18, 1848. ^Christus ist mein Leben und sterben ist inein Gewin. In memory of REV. WILLIAM HK.WMINGHAUS, German Missionary of the M.E. Church : bom Jan. 26, 1808; died Jan. 24, 1848. Wo ich bin da soil mein, diener auch sein. Where I am, there shall be my servant. Jan. 12, 1826. East view of Keokuk. The view shows the appearance of Keokuk, as seen from the hights above (ho Ferry landing, on the Illinois side of the Mississippi. The Kokuk, Fort Pes Monies and Minnesota Railroad is on the extreme left ; the Keokuk, Mount Pleasant and Muscatino Railroad on the right. KEOKUK, and semi-capital of Lee county, is a short distance above the confluence of the Des Moines with the Mississippi, on the west side of the Mississippi, 200 miles above St. Louis, 1,400 above New Orleans, and about 150 from Des Moines, the capital. It is at the S.E. corner of the state, at the foot of the "Lower Rapids," and being the only city of Iowa having uninterrupted communication with all the great tributaries of the "Father of Waters," it has not inaptly been called the "Gate Cify" of Iowa. The site of Keokuk is remarkably fine. It covers the top and slopes of a large bluff, partially around which the Mississippi bends with a graceful curve, commanding a fine prospect to the south and north. The city standi 394 IOWA. upon an inexhaustible quarry of limestone rock, forming ample material fur buildings. A portion of the great water power at this point is used in various manufactories, flouring mills, founderies, etc. The Mississippi, up- ward from this place, flows over a rocky bed of limestone, called the Rapid*, 12 miles in extent, falling, in that distance, 24 feet, making it difficult for the larger class of steamboats to pass. The city contains several splendid public buildings, the medical department of the State University, hospital, some eight or nine churches, and about 13,000 inhabitants. The plat of the village of Keokuk was laid out in the spring of 1837, and in the ensuing June a public sale of town lots was held, and attended by a very large crowd. One boat was chartered in St. Louis, and numbers came up on other boats. Only two or three lots, the south-west corner of Main- street and the levee, and one or two others lying contiguous, were sold. The corner lot went for $1,500, and a New York company still hold the deed of trust on it to secure the payment. In 1840, the main portion of Keokuk was a dense forest, and where Main- street now is, were thick timber and underbrush. It was so swampy and rough between Third and Fourth-streets, as to be rather dangerous riding on horseback after a heavy rain. About a dozen cabins comprised all the improvements. In the spring of 1847, a census of the place gave a popula- tion of 620. Owing to the unsettled state of the titles, but little progress was made till 1849. From that time until the autumn of 1857 it had a rapid growth. Keokuk derived its name from Keokuk (the Watchful Fox), a chieftain of the Sac tribe, distinguished for his friendship to the Americans during the Black Hawk war. He often lost his popularity with his tribe by his efforts to keep them at peace with the United States, and nothing but his powerful eloquence and tact sustained him. He was once deposed by his tribe, and a young chief elected in his place. He, however, soon attained his former position. Keokuk was born about the year 1780. He was not a hereditary chief, but raised himself to that dignity by the force of tnlent and enterprise. He was a man of extraordinary eloquence; fertile in re- sources on the field of battle; possessed of desperate bravery; and never at a loss in any emergency. He had six wives, was fond of display, and on his visits of state to other tribes, moved, it is supposed, in more savage mag- nificence than any ether chief on the continent. He was a noble looking man, about five feet ten inches in hight, portly, and over 200 pounds in weight. He had an eagle eye, a dignified bearing, and a manly, intelligent expression of countenance, and always painted and dressed in the Indian costume. He supplanted Black Hawk as chieftain of the Sacs and Foxes. He died in Missouri a few years since, and was succeeded in the chieftain- ship by his son. The Des Moines River, which terminates at Keokuk, is one of the noblest of streams. Keokuk is the principal port of its valley, in which half the population and agricultural wealth of the state are concentrated. On the banks of the Des Moines stood the village of the celebrated chief Black 7Aw/i-, who there breathed his last, Oct. 3, 1840. He was buried near the banks of the river, in a sitting posture, as is customary with his tribe. His hands grasped his cane, and his body was surrounded by stakes, which united at the top. Iowa is noted for the extent and magnificence of her prairies. These are of great advantage to the rapid and easy settlement of a country. When, IOWA. 395 however, too extensive, without a sufficiency of timber, a prairie country has some serious drawbacks. Fortunately, in Iowa, the immense beds of coal partly supply the deficiency in fuel, and the prairie country there is remark- ably healthy. It is generally rolling, often even hilly, the streams mostly Prairie Scenery. fresh running water, with sandy or gravelly beds, which condition prevents the origin of miasma, the great scourge of flat, prairie districts, where slug- gish streams, winding, their snaky shaped course through rich alluvial soils, generate disease and death from their stagnant waters, green and odious with the slime of a decaying vegetation. The prairie farms of Iowa, large, smooth and unbroken by stump or other obstruction, afford an excellent field for the introduction of mowing machines and other improved implements of agri- culture. The wonderful fertility of the prairies is accounted for by the fact that we have a soil "which for thousands of years has been hearing annual crops of grass, the ashes or decayed stems of which have been all that time adding to the original for- 396 tility of the soil. So long back as we have any knowledge of the country, it had been the custom of the Indians to set fire to the prairie grass in autumn, after frost set in, the fire spreading with wonderful rapidity, covering vast districts of coun- try, and filling the atmosphere for weeks with smoke. In the course of ages a soil somewhat resembling an ash-heap must have been thus gradually created, and it is no wonder that it should be declared to be inexhaustible in fertility. In Kurope such tracts of fertile country as the plain of Lombardy are known to have yielded crops for more than 2,000 years without intermission, and yet no one says that the soil is exhausted. Here we have a tract naturally as rich, and with the addition of its own crops rotting upon its surface, and adding to its stores of fertility all that time. It need occasion no surprise therefore, to be told of twenty or thirty crops of Indian corn being taken in succession from the same land, without ma- nure, every crop, good or better, according to the nature of the season." A distinguished English chemist analyzed some of the prairie soils of the west " His analysis, which was of the most scrutinizing character, bears out completely the high character for fertility which practice and experience had already proved these soils to possess. The most noticeable feature in the analysis is the very large quantity of nitrogen which each of the soils contains, nearly twice as much as the most fertile soils of Britain. In each case, taking the soil at an average depth of ten inches, an acre of these prairies will contain upward of three tuns of nitrogen, and as a heavy crop of wheat with its straw contains about fifty-two pounds of ni- trogen, there is thus a natural store of ammonia in this soil sufficient for more than a hundred wheat crops. In Dr. Voelcker's words, ' It is this large amount of nitrogen, and the beautiful state of division, that impart a peculiar character to these soils, and distinguish them so favorably. They are soils upon which I imagine flax could be grown in perfection, supposing the climate to be otherwise favorable. I have never before analyzed soils which contained so much nitrogen, nor do I find any record of soils richer in nitrogen than these.' " "The novelty of the prairie country is striking, arid never fails to cause an ex- clamation of surprise from those who have lived amid the forests of Ohio and Kentucky, or along the wooded shores of the Atlantic, or in sight of the rocky bar- riers of the Allegheny ridge. The extent of the prospect is exhilarating. The outline of the landscape is undulating and graceful. The verdure and the flowers are beautiful ; and the absence of shade, and consequent appearance of a profu- sion of light, produces a gayety which animates every beholder. These plains, although preserving a general level in respect to the whole coun- try, are yet, in themselves, not flat, but exhibit a gracefully waving surface, swell- ing and sinking with easy, graceful slopes, and full, rounded outlines, equally avoid- ing the unmeaning horizontal surface, and the interruption of abrupt or angular elevations. The attraction of the prairie consists in its extent, its carpet of verdure and flowers, its undulating surface, its groves, and the fringe of timber by which it is surrounded. Of all these, the latter is the most expressive feature. It is that which gives character to the landscape, which imparts the shape, and marks the boundary of the plain. If the prairie be small, its greatest beauty consists in the vicinity of the surrounding margin of woodland, which resembles the shore of a lake indented with deep vistas, like bays and inlets, and throwing out long points, like capes and headlands. In the spring of the year, when the young grass has just covered the ground with a carpet of delicate green, and especially if the sun is rising from behind a disrant swell of the plain and glittering upon the dewdrops, no scene can be more lovely to the eye. The groves, or clusters of timber, are particularly attractive at this season of* the year. The rich undergrowth is in full bloom. The rosewood, dogwood, crab-apple, wild plum, the cherry, and the wild rose are all abundant, and in ninny portions of the state the grape-vine abounds. The variety of wild fruit and flowering shrubs is so great, and such the profusion of the blossoms with which they are bowed down, that the eye is regaled almost to satiety. Tlio gayety of the prairie, its embellishments, and the absence of the gloom and savage wildncss of the forest, all contribute to dispel the feeling of loneliness which usually creeps over the mind of the solitary traveler in the wilderness. Thougb IOWA. 397 he may not see a house or a human being, and is conscious that he is far from the habitations of men, the traveler upon the prairie can scarcely divest himself of tho idea that he is traveling through scenes embellished by the hand of art. The flowers, so fragile, so delicate, and so ornamental, seem to have been tastefully dis- posed to adorn the scene. In the summer, the prairie is covered with long, coarse grass, which soon assumes a golden hue, and waves in the wind like a fully ripe harvest. The prairie-grass never attains its highest growth in the richest soil; Out in low, wet, or marshy land, where the substratum of clay lies near the surface, the center or main stem of the grass that which bears the seed shoots up to the hight of eight and ten feet, throwing out long, coarse leaves or blades. But on the rich, undulating prairies, the grass is finer, with less of stalk and a greater profusion of leaves. The roots spread and interweave, forming a compact, even sod, and the blades expand into a close, thick grass, which is seldom more than eighteen inches high, until late in the season, when the seed-bearing stem shoots up. The first coat is mingled with small flowers the violet, the bloom of the wild strawberry, and various others, of the most minute and delicate texture. As the grass increases in hight, these smaller flowers disappear, and others, taller and more gaudy, display their brilliant colors upon the green surface; and still later, a larger and coarser succession arises with the rising tide of verdure. It is impossible to conceive a more infinite diversity, or a richer profusion of hues, 'from grave to gay,' than graces the beautiful carpet of green throughout the entire season of summer." 'The autumnal months, in Iowa, :ire almost invariably clear, warm, and dry. The immense mass of vegetation with which this fertile prairie soil loads itself luring the summer is suddenly withered, and the whole earth is covered with com- bustible materials. This is especially true of those portions where grass grows from two to ten feet high, and is exposed to sun and wind, becoming thoroughly dried. A single spark of fire, falling upon the prairie at such a time, instantly kindles a blaze that spreads on every side, and continues its destructive course as long as it finds fuel. These fires sweep along with great power and rapidity, and frequently extend across a wide prairie and advance in a long line. No sight can be more sublime than a stream of fire, beheld at night, several miles in breadth, advancing across the plains, leaving behind it a background of dense black smoke, throwing before it a vivid glare, which lights up the whole landscape for miles with the brilliancy of noonday. The progress of the fire is so slow, and the heat so intense, that every combustible in its course is consumed. The roots of the prairie-grass, and several species of flowers, however, by some peculiar adaptation of nature, are spared." The winters on the prairie are often terrible. Exposed to the full sweep of the icy winds that come rushing down from the Rocky Mountains, without a single obstruction, the unlucky traveler that is caught, unprotected by sufficient clothing, is in imminent danger of perishing before the icy blast. December and January of the winter of 1856-7, were unprecedentedly stormy and cold in western Iowa. A writer for one of the public prints, who passed that winter on the western fron- tier of this state, gives this vivid picture of the sufferings of the frontier settlers, his communication being dated at "Jefferson's Grove, fifty miles from a postoflice." "Once the mercury has been 30 deg. below zero, twice 24 deg., several times 16 deg., and more than seven eighths of the time at some point below zero. Only two days in the whole two months has it been above the freezing point We have had four fierce snow storms, in which one could not see an object four rods distant, and I doubt if such storms can be excelled in fury in any of the hy- perborean regions. Everybody was compelled to keep within doors; cattle were driven before the driving snow until they found refuge in the groves; and most of the houses, within doors, were thoroughly sifted with snow. But I will relate a few instances of frontier hardships. Forty miles above here, at the very margin of the settlement, a family was caught by the first snow storm, almost without firewood and food. In the morning the husband made a fire, and leaving to seek for assistance from his nearest neighbors, distant six miles, directed his family to make one more jire, and then retire to bed, and there remain until ho returned; they did so. After excessive hardships, ho IOWA. returned on the second day, with some friends, and conveyed his wife and little children, on hand-sleds through the deep snow, to their kind neighbors. Last summer five families ventured across a fifty mile prairie, uninhabited, of course, and commenced making farms on a small stream, very sparcely timbered, called Hoyer River. The early frost nipped their late corn, and left them with- out food. Seven of the men of this little detached settlement, started in the Fall for Fort Des Moinee, distant one hundred and fifty miles, to procure provis- ions and other necessaries. When on their return, fifty miles from Fort Des Monies, on the North Koon River, they were overtaken by the severe snow storm that commenced on the first day of December and raged for forty eight hours. Tin>y then halted, constructed sleds, and started for their families, one hundred miles distant, across a trackless prairie. They suU'ored terribly, and one of them perished with the cold." State Capitol, Des Moines. DCS Moinrs, which became in 1855 the capital of Iowa, is at the head of steamboat navigation on Des Moines River, in the geographical center of tho state, about 170 miles west of Davenport, and 140 eastward of Council BhifFs. The line of the Mississippi and Missouri Railroad passes through the city, as also will several others in contemplation". The city is situated at the con- fluence of Raccoon River with the Des Moines, the two streams uniting near the corporation limits. The scenery at this point is beautiful: a smooth val- ley, rising on all sides, by successive benches, back to the gently sloping hills, which finally attain a hight of about 200 feet. This spot was the council ground of the Indians. It was afterward the site of Fort Des Moines, selected by the officers of the U. S. army, on which barracks and defenses were erected. Most of the town is laid out with wide streets. On the elevations are beautiful building sites, commanding views of all the central town, of both rivers, and of the faces of most of the other hills, with their residences. On the summit of one of the hills is the pres- ent state house, and the square set apart for the permanent capitol. Some 6 or 7 churches are already erected, and 3 newspapers are printed. Popu- lation about 5,000. IOWA. 399 MUSCATINE, the county seat of Muscatine county, is situated 100 miles above Keokuk, and 32 below Davenport. Commencing at the Upper Rapids, the Mississippi runs in a westerly direction until it strikes a series of rocky, bluffs, by which its course is turned due south. At this bend, and on the summit of the bluffs, is situated the city of Muscatine,, which is regularly Western view of Muscatine. laid out, with fine, wide streets, having several elegant buildings. It is a shipping point for a very great amount of produce raised in the adjoining counties. When the various railroads are completed which are to run in various directions from this point, Muscatine will have added to her natural advantages fine facilities for communication with every part of the country. Muscatine was first settled by the whites in 1836, previous to which time it was an Indian trading post, known by the name of Manatheka. After- ward it was called Bloomington. Population in I860, 5,324. Council Bluffs Clfy, the' county seat of Pottawatomie county, is near the geographical center of the United States, on the east side of the Missouri River, about 140 miles westward of Des Moines, the capital of the state, nearly opposite Omaha City, the capital of Nebraska, about 300 miles above Leavenworth City, and 685 above St. Louis. It is built on a beautiful, ex- tended plain. It has a number of fine stores, and many elegant private buildings. This is a flourishing place, and here a portion of the emigrants for the far west procure their oatfits. It was for a long time an important point in overland travel to California, being the last civilized settlement be- fore entering the Indiau country. Four important railroads from the east are projected directly to this place, some of which are fast progressing to completion. The first one finished will be the Mississippi and Missouri, which, commencing at Davenport, already extends to beyond Iowa City. Population about 5,000. A gentleman, who was at Council Bluffs in 1860, gives these valuable items upon the history of the town, and the condition and resources of the country: The growth of Council Bluffs has been rapid within the last six years, and it Btill retains, as it is likely to retain, the position of the most important city of western Iowa. This point was formerly known as Kanesville, and was for about 400 IOWA - three years from 1846 to 1849 the residence of the Mormon hosts ol Brigham Young, in his celebrated march to the great Salt Lake valley. After the Mormons were driven from Nauvoo, they determined to build up a kingdom to themselves in the far west. They departed, but upon reaching the borders of the great plains they found they had not the number of cattle and horses, nor the provisions that were indispensable for so long and so distant a journey; so they selected a roman- tic and wooded valley, adjoining the great bottoms of the Missouri, for their tem- porary home. Timber was plenty, and with it they soon constructed log houses for fifteen thousand people. They inclosed several hundred acres of the rich and easily cultivated Missouri bottoms, and planted them with corn. Their cattle, fed on these fine pastures, increased in numbers rapidly. They raised large amounts of corn for these fanatics are hard working, industrious men and women. In three years they found themselves so prosperous that they resumed their journey, and in due time found themselves at their destination in the u Hoty Valley" at the Great Salt Lake. As the Mormons left, other settlers came in. The name was changed to Council Bluffs. This cognomen had been given by Lewis and Clarke, a long time before, to a point on the Missouri, several miles above the present town. It had become a historical name, and it was wise in the new-comers to appropriate it to their use. So much for the early history of this place. The Mormon town was built in a very pleasant valley, that opens upon the great Missouri bottom from the north-east. Jt is four miles from the base of the hills, which are several hundred feet high, and very abrupt, to the river. The log houses left by the Mormons were used'by the early settlers, and many of them are yet standing. But it soon became manifest that the business part of the future city must be on the great plain or bottom, and out of the bluffs. And so the result has shown. The best part of the city is on the plain, though the finest places for residences are en the delightful slopes and hillsides of the valleys, which now constitute the upper town. The view from the high bluffs back of the city is very commanding and beauti- ful. From the top of one of these hills one can see six rising cities in the far dis- tance Omaha, Saratoga, Florence, Bellevue, St. Marys, and Pacific City. At the foot of these bluffs the Missouri bottom extends four miles to the west, to Omaha, and to the south and north as far as the eye can reach. The bottoms are from four to ten miles in width, and are mostly dry and most fertile lands. Strips of timber abound. The bluffs facing the bottom are generally naked, and very abrupt. The eastern man will again and again wonder how the earth can be made to remain in such fantastic and sharply pointed shapes for centuries, as he finds them here. Back of the first range of bluffs, the country is covered with timber for some miles, when the rolling and open prairie becomes the leading feature for hundreds of miles, and indeed across the state of Iowa to the Mississippi River. Council Bluffs claims a population of 5,000, but the usual deduction must be made. It has passed through the usual process of rapid t and extended inflation, and consequent collapse and almost suspension of vitality. The paper part of the city embraces territory enough for a quarter of a million of people. The exten- sive and rich bottoms, instead of being cultivated as farms, are all staked off into city lots ; and in years past, large numbers of them were sold to speculators. So crazy did these people become, that one man bought a quarter section of this bot- tom land, two miles from the present town, and gave his notes for sixty thousand dollars for the same. He collapsed, of course, as the crash of 1857 brought his air castle to the ground; and he can not now sell his land for twenty dollars por acre. Here is another large four story monument of folly in the shape of a brick hotel, some half a mile out from the present business part of the city. A man by the name of Andrews had sold out shares in Florence for large sums. He had realized about thirty thousand dollars in hard cash. He became giddy, bought a tract adjoining Council Bluffs, laid it off into city lots; and, to show his faith ,-ind to sell his lots, he erected this large and costly hotel. But it was never completed. The crash also caught him unprepared, and he went under, with thousands of other*. His hotel is roofed, but not finished; and it looks the wreck it is, of the fast inflation which culminated and exploded three years ago. IOWA. 401 Still there are many evidences of substantial prosperity in Council Bluffs. Sev- eral brick blocks of stores would do credit to older towns, and they are well filled with stocks of goods, and held by substantial, intelligent business men. The bus- iness portion is mainly on the plain, and is extending from the base of the bluffs toward the river. The present steamboat landing is about four miles from the town, and directly south of it. Council Bluffs has the Knnesville land office, where a large portion of the lands of western Jowa has been sold. IOWA CITY, the first capital of the state of Iowa, is on the left bank of Iowa River, in Johnson county, 55 miles from Davenport, by the Mississippi and Missouri Railroad, in the midst of one of the most beautiful and thriving of agricultural regions. Population in 1860, 5,214. Annexed we present a sketch from a corres- pondent, giving a his- tory of the city and of the University situated in it, which gives pro- mise of great useful- ness to the future of Iowa: In 1838, Congress pass- ed an act to divide the Territory of Wisconsin, and form the Territory of Iowa out of that part which lay to the west of the Mississippi River. The governor of the new territory under the or- ganic act, fixed the seat of government at Bur- lington. On the !21stof January following, the territorial legislature ap- pointed commissioners to STATE UNIVERSITY, IOWA CITY. The large building on the right was originally the first State Capitol. locate the seat of government and superintend the erection of public buildings. These commissioners selected the site now occupied by Iowa City, on the east bank of the Iowa River, about 50 miles west of the Mississippi River. Congress hud appropriated $20,000 for the erection of the capitol, and subsequently granted the section of land on which the capitol was to be erected. The corner stone of the building was laid on the 4th of July, 1839. The proceeds of the sale of lots on the section granted by congress, defrayed the main part of the expense of the erection. The first session of the legislature was held in Iowa City, in December, 1841, in a temporary building the capitol not being yet finished. The building wa first occupied by the legislature in 1844. The location of the capital soon collected a considerable population in Iowa City. When the city was first laid out, there was but one log cabin on the ground. ^t the end of a single year, the number of inhabitants was seven hundred, and it continued steadily to increase. In 1852, the population was 3,500. The opening of the Mississippi and Missouri Railroad, from Davenport as far as Iowa City, in. 1S54, and the rush of emigration into the state, gave a new impetus to tha. : oity. 26 402 In 1857 the population had increased to 8,000, and all kinds of business were ex- ceedingly active and profitable. But the-monetary crisis of 1857 put a stop to its prosperity, and since that time has diminished rather than increased, and in 1860 was only about 7,000. In 1856, the capital was removed from Iowa City to DCS Moines, and permanently fixed there by the new constitution of the state, adopted in January, 1 860. When the seat of government was removed to Des Moines, the state house in Iowa City was given by the legislature to the State University, together with the 10 acres of land on which it stands. The State University has for its foundation 72 sections of land, granted by congress for the endowment of a university. In 1847, the state legislature passed a law organizing the University, and appointing trustees to manage its concerns, put the institution did not go into operation till 1855. At that time a chancellor and several professors were appointed, and the University was opened in a building hired by the trustees for that purpose. The year following a part of the state house was occupied by the preparatory depart- ment, and as lecture rooms for the professors. The building, however, was in a bad condition, and required fitting up in order to suit the purposes of an institu- tion of learning. The city was full of people, and accommodations for students could not be easily procured, and in 1857, the pecuniary embarrassments of the country preventing the collection of the interest on the funds, the trustees saw fit to close the University for a time this took place in the summer of 1858. By the new constitution of the state, adopted in 1857, a board of education was created, whose duty it was to take the entire charge of the educational institutions of the state. This board at their first meeting, in December, 1858, passed a law reorgan- izing the University, appointing a new board of trustees, with the understanding that the institution should be reopened as early as practicable. In October, 1859, they appointed the Rev Silas Totten, D.D.,L.L.D., president of the University, and in June following, proceeded to fill the professorships of mathematics, languages, philosophy and chemistry, and natural history. On the 19th of October, the Uni- versity was reopened under the new organization. In the session of 1858, the legislature granted $13,000 to tfee University, for re- pairs on the state house, and for the erection of another building for the residence of students. A new roof was put upon the state house, and the other building be- gun and the exterior completed. A further grant of $10,000 was made in 1860, $5,000 to be expended on the old building and in the purchase of philosophical and chemical apparatus, and the remainder upon the new building. The repairs and alterations of the state house have been completed, and it is now both an elegant and commodious building for the purposes of a university. It is built of cream colored limestone, and is 120 feet long by 60 broad, and two stories high, with a basement. The walls are of massive cut stone, and the rooms are spacious and lofty. The original cost of the building was $160,000. It contains the chapel, library, cabinet, five lecture rooms, a room occupied by the State Historical Society, and a spacious entrance hall, sur- mounted by a dome. The other building is of pressed brick, 105 feet by 45-, three stories high, and when finished will accommodate about 100 students. The build- ings are situated on a ridge of land, the highest in the city, in the middle of a park of ten acres, which contains many fine old oak trees in a very flourishing con- dition. The site is beautiful, overlooking the valley of the Iowa River on the west and the city on the east, while from the top of the dome may be seen a vast ex- tent of rolling country, prairie and woodland, spread out on every side. The University has now all the requisites for a first class institution of learning. It has a choice library of 1,500 volumes, quite an extensive mineralogical cabinet, and a very complete philosophical and chemical apparatus. Provision has been made for the increase of the library and cabinet. Furt Dodge, the county seat of Webster county, is beautifully situated on a platform of prairie land, on the east side of Des Moines River, on the line of the Dubuque and Pacific Railroad. Building was commenced here in IOWA. 403 the fall of 1855. Several fine brick buildings and business-houses have been erected. Bituminous coal and iron ore, of a superior quality, are found in great abundance in the immediate vicinity. Sioux City, Woodbury county, a new settlement at the confluence of the Big Siour River, about 230 miles above Council Bluffs, is well situated on a high bank, and is the last place of importance on the Missouri. Port Madison, the county seat of Lee county, is a flourishing town. It contains the state-prison, and 4000 inhabitants. A fortification was built here in 1808, as a defence against the Indians, who obliged the garrison to abandon it. In the war of 1812, the fort was twice attacked by the Indians. In November, 1813, it was evacuated and the buildings burnt, as the con- tractor failed to furnish the garrison with provisions. Grinnell is in Powesheik county, 115 miles from Davenport, by the Mis- sissippi and Missouri Railroad, is a fine town, and noted as the seat of Iowa College. There are in the state many small, city-like towns, as : Keosanqua, in Van Buren co.; Lyons, in Clinton; Cedar Rapids, in Linn; Oskaloosa, in Ma- haska ; Cedar Falls, in Black Hawk, and Mount Pleasant, in Henry. At tl.e last named is the State Insane Asylum and the Wesleyan University and about 6000 inhabitants. MISCELLANIES. UNITED STATES LAND SYSTEM. All the lands belonging to the United States, within the new states and territories, are surveyed and sold under one general system, which, from its simplicity, has been of incalculable benefit in the settlement of the west. This admirable system of surveys of lands by townships and ranges, was first adopted by Oliver Phelps, an ex- tensive landholder in Genesee county, N. Y., who opened a land office at Canandaigua, in 1789. His was the model which was adopted for surveying all the new lands in the United States. Col. Jared Mansfield, appointed surveyor general of the United States for the North-western Territory, by Jefferson, in 1802, applied the system the government lands, and greatly improved it. In brief it is this : "Meridian lines are established and surveyed in a line due north from some given point generally from some important water-course. These are intersected at right angles with a base line. On the meridians, the "townships'" are numbered north and south from the base lines; and, on the base lines, "ranges" east or west of the meridian. Township lines are then run, at a distance of six miles, parallel to the meridian and base lines. Each township contains an area of 36 square miles; each square mile is termed a section, and contains 640 acres. The sections are numbered from 1 to 36, beginning at the north-east corner of the township, as the an- nexed diagram illustrates. When surveyed, the lands are offered for Bale at public auction, but can not be disposed of at a less price than one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre. That portion not sold at public auction is subject to private entry at any time, for the above price, payable in cash at the time of entry. 6 5 4 3 10 2 1 7 8 9 11 12 18 17 16* 15 14 13 19 20 21 22 23 24 30 29 28 27 26 25 31 32 oo 66 34 35 36 404 IOWA. Pre-emption rights give the improver or possessor the privilege of purchasing at the minimum price." By a wise provision of the law of the United States, every 16th section in each township is appropriated for the support of public schools. This is one thirty sixth of all the public lands, and in a state of 36,000 square miles would give one thousand to this object. Previous to the adoption of this system of surveying the public-lands, great con- fusion existed for the want of a general, uniform plan, and in consequence titles often conflicted with each other, and, in many cases, several grants covered the same premises, leading very frequently to litigation most perplexing and almost interminable. Now, the precise boundaries of any piece of land can be given in a very few lines ; and, in a moment, found on the maps in the government land offices, or, if the land has been sold to individuals, in the recorder's office in the county in which it may be situated, and where it is entered for taxation. The land itself can be easily found by the permanent corner posts at each corner of the sections. The form of description of government lands is thus shown by this example : "North-East Quarter of Section No. 23; in Township No. 26 of Range No. 4, West of Meridian Line, in White Co., Tnd., and containing 160 acres." It is usual to abridge such descriptions, thus: "N.E. i S. 23, T. 26, R. 4 W., in White Co., Ind., & cont'g 160 A." The state institutions and principal educational institutions of Iowa are located as follows : the State University, Iowa City, a-nd its Medical De- partment at Keokuk ; State Agricultural College, on a farm in Story county; the Blind Asylum, in Vinton, Benton county; Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Iowa City ; Insane Asylum, Mount Pleasant ; the Penitentiary, Fort Madison ; State Historical Society, Iowa City ; Iowa Orphan Asylum, Farmington, Van Buren county. Among educational institutions are : the Iowa College, at Grinnell ; Bishop Lee Female Seminary, at Dubuque j Cornell College, at Mount Vernon ; Upper Iowa University at Fayette ; Iowa Wesleyan University, at Mount Pleasant ; and Indianola Male and Female Seminary, at Indianola. M I SSO U fil. MISSOURI was originally included in the limits of Louisiana, purchased of the French government in 1803. The first Europeans who visited any part of its territory appear to have been Marquette and Joliet, the French missionaries from Canada,' who sailed down the Mississippi in 1673. This river was more fully ex- plored by La Salle, in 1682, who de- clared all the region between the Il- linois country and the Gulf of Mex- ico to be an appendage of France. From this period, settlements began to be made in the valley of the Mis- sissippi, and the territory was pro- tected from Spanish invasion by a chain of fortifications, extending from the lakes to the gulf. Among these was Fort Orleans, built in 1719, near the mouth of the Osage, not far from the site of Jefferson City. The settlements in the Mississippi valley were made advancing from its northern and southern extremities into the interior. " Missouri being in the central part, its progress was slow. Its lead mines were worked as early as 1720. St. Genevieve, the oldest town, was founded in 1755; St. Louis in 1764 : other settlements followed in quick succession. During the progress of the contest between France and Great Britain, many of the Canadian French emigrated by way of the lakes, and going southward, located them- selves in both Upper and Lower Louisiana. These emigrants gave the first important impulse to the colonization of Missouri. After the conquest of Canada, in 1763, the jurisdiction of the Mississippi passed from France to Great Britain and Spain, the Mississippi River being the dividing line between the possessions of the two latter powers. The whole population of Spanish Louisiana, north and south, at the time of the public transfer, in 1769, is stated to have been 18.840 persons, of whom 5,556 were whites, and the remainder negroes. A river trade had sprung up be- 405 ARMS OF MISSOURI. MOTTO f!ahi*.popuU snprema lex exto Let the prop- erty of the i>eople, be the supreme law. 406 MISSOURI. tween the northern and southern part of the province, and the exports at this period amounted to $250,000 annually. The laws of Spain were now extended over this part of Louisiana, and the character of the new govern- ment was conciliating. The highest tribunal in Upper Louisiana, which com- prised Missouri within its limits, was that of the lieutenant governor, the governor having jurisdiction in the lower province. The commandants of the various posts in the provinces held inferior tribunals. Lands were granted liberally to colonists, and great facilities were given to settlers. Many emigrants from Spain now came into the country. In 1763, Mr. Laclede, the head of a mercantile company, who had ob- tained a monopoly of the Indian and fur trade on the Mississippi and Mis- souri Rivers, left New Orleans on an expedition to form establishments, and open a commerce with the natives. Having left his stores at Fort Chartres, on the Kaskaskias, Laclede proceeded up the river to the bluff, where St. Louis now stands. Pleased with the situation, he determined to make it the central place of the company's operations. Laclede was accompanied by Auguste and Pierre Choteau, two young Creoles of New Orleans, of high respectability and intelligence. In 1764, Auguste, the elder of the two brothers, commenced the first buildings in St. Louis. These brothers became at this place the heads of numerous families, whose name became a passport that commanded safety and hospitality among the Indian nations in the United States, north and west. At the commencement of the American revolution, in 1775, St. Louis, originally a depot for the fur trade, had increased to a population of about 800, and St. Genevieve to about half that number. In 1780, a body of En- glish and Indians, 1,540 strong, from Michillimackinac and the southern ex- tremity of Lake Michigan, attacked St. Louis. During the siege, which lasted about a week, some sixty persons were killed in the town and vicinity. While the fate of the garrison remained in great uncertainty, the timely arrival of- Gen. Clarke, from Kentucky, turned the tide of fortune against the enemy. The general peace of 1783, put an end to hostilities. Spain retained her previous possessions, Great Britain resigned East Louisiana, called also the "Illinois Country," to the United States, retaining only Canada and other possessions at the north. On the restoration of peace, the settlers in the western part of the United States, to some extent, emigrated and built their cabins on the western or Spanish side of the Mississippi. Difficulties, as might have been expected, soon arose between Spain and the United States. A dispute relative to the navigation of the Mississippi occurred in 1795, when, by treaty, Spain granted to the United jStates free navigation of that river. But Spain did not act up to the spirit of her agreement, and threw obstacles in the way of the Americans navigating that stream. An open warfare seems to have been only prevented by the cession of Louisiana to France, in 1801, who transferred it to the United States in 1803, being purchased of the French government for fifteen millions of dollars. The new purchase was immediately divided into the "Territory of Orleans" (since the state of Louisiana), and the "District of Louisiana," erected in 1805 into a territorial government, administered by a governor and judges, under the title of "Territory of Louisiana," having four districts, St. Charles.. St. Louis, Cape Girardeau, New Madrid and Arkansas. When the present state of Louisiana came into the Union, in 1812, the name of this territory was changed to "Missouri Territory." The territory extended from latitude MISSOURI. 407 33 to 41 N. The government now became representative, and the first governor under the new government was William Clarke. The legislature consisted of a council of nine members, appointed by the president, and a house of representatives, one member for every 500 free white males, elected by the people. The limits of the Missouri Territory, on the west, were gradually extended by treaties with the Indians. "People from the western states began to move in from the time of the purchase, so that in 1810, the population numbered 20,845, of whom all, but about 1,500 belonging to Arkansas, were settled within the present limits of Missouri. The French settlements were now overrun by Americans, from Kentucky, Tennessee, Ohio, etc., and American habits, usages, laws, and institutions soon became prevalent. The original settlers were quickly merged and almost lost among the later and more active population, until at length the whole became a homogeneous people. Immi- gration was so rapid, that in 1817, the territory contained 60,000 souls. In 1817, application was made by the assembly to congress, for authority to frame a state constitution, preliminary to admission into the Union. A fierce and stormy debate arose at once o'n the subject in congress. A powerful party demanded that the new state should exclude slavery by their constitu- tion. The discussion raged for two years, threatening to tear the Union asunder; at length, however, the debate was stopped by the passage of the compromise resolutions of Mr. Clay, by which it was agreed that the institu- tion of slavery should be recognized in Missouri, but in no other new state north of latitude 36 30'. The state constitution, somewhat modified since its adoption, was framed by a convention of forty delegates, which met at St. Louis, on the 12th of June, 1820, and was adopted on the 19th July fol- lowing. The new state was found, by a census taken the same year, to con- tain a population of 66,586, of whom 10,222 were slaves."* The north-western boundary of the Missouri was enlarged in the session of congress of 1836-7, by the addition of a wedge-shaped piece of terri- tory, measuring on the east side about 104 miles long, north and south, and about 60 miles wide on the north end, and bounded on the west by the Mis- souri River. This territory is now comprised in the six counties of Platte, Buchanan, Andrew, Atchison, Nodaway, and Holt, and contains over three thousand square miles. Although this acquisition was in opposition to the terms of the Missouri Compromise, it appears to have been acquiesced. in with little or no opposition from any source. It had its justification in a better and more natural boundary, the Missouri River: and the country being of remarkable fertility, became filled with a wealthy and thriving popula- tion. Since the establishment of the state government, there has been to the present time a constant tide of emigration into Missouri, from the southern, western and northern states, and, to some extent, from Europe. Agriculture and commerce have flourished to a great extent. The manufacturing inter- ests are considerable, and its extraordinary mineral wealth, is beginning to be appreciated. Many of the Mormons, previous to their location at Nau- voo, emigrated to the north-western section of the state, where they caused much difficulty, in Ray county, in which some were killed and wounded. In 1838, the governor of the state issued an order, or proclamation, for the ex- pulsion of the Mormons. After the repeal of the "Missouri Compromise," * Fisher's Gazetteer of the United States. 408 MISSOURI. in 1854, the western border of the state became the theater of much excite- ment and many hostile demonstrations, arising from the contest between the free state men,' who had emigrated into the adjoining Territory of Kansas, .and the pro-slavery party, principally from the western border of Missouri, who were, by their opponents, termed "border ruffians." During the strug- gle for ascendency, rnan^r outrages were committed, and many lives lost on both sides. Of late years, a political contest has sprung up between the emancipation and pro-slavery parties in this state, the final result of which remains to be seen. Missouri is bounded N. by Iowa, E. by the Mississippi River, S. by Ar- kansas, and W. by Kansas, Nebraska, and the Indian territory. It is situ- ated between 36 and 40 36' N. Lat., and between 89 and 95 36' W. Long. It is 287 miles long and 230 broad, containing upward of 65,000 square miles, nearly equaling in extent the six New England states together, and more than doubling them all in agricultural capacity. The surface of Missouri is quite varied. Alluvial, or bottom lands, are found on the mar- gins of the rivers. In the interior, bottoms and barrens, naked hills and prairies, heavy forests and streams of water, may be often seen in one view. In the south-east part, near the Mississippi and south of Cape Girardeau, is an extensive marsh, reaching into Arkansas, and comprising an area nearly equal to the entire state of Connecticut. Back of this is a hilly country, rich in minerals, which extends to Osage River. One of the richest coal fields in the Union occupies the greater part of the state north of the Osage River, and extending nearly to the Iowa line. The coal is bituminous and much of it cannel. The great cannel coal bed in Calloway county, is the largest body of cannel coal known: in places it is 75 feet thick. On distil- lation, it yields excellent coke, and a gas that, being destitute of sulphur, burns with a bright and beautiful flame. The lead region is at an average distance of seventy miles from St. Louis, and covers an area of 3,000 square miles. While in Wisconsin the lead does not extend 100 feet in depth, the lead veins of Missouri extend, in places, more than 1,000 feet. The mineral region contains 216 localities of lead ore, 90 of iron, and 25 of copper. The state abounds in iron ; in fact, no country in the world contains so much of this useful ore as Missouri ; and her general mineral wealth is enormous, in coal, iron, copper, lead, etc. Minerals of the non-metallic kind are also abundant, limestone, sandstone, porphyries, gypsum, sienite, porcelain, pipe and variegated clays. The country north of the .Missouri, and that which adjoins Kansas, has been termed the garden of the west. In most places it has a beautiful, un- dulating surface, sometimes rising into picturesque hills, then stretching into a sea of prairie, interspersed with shady groves and streams of water. Missouri possesses very great facilities for internal intercourse by water, having the navigation of the two greatest rivers in the United States, if not in the world. By means of the Mississippi River, forming her eastern boun- dary, she has commerce with the most northern territory of the Union, with the whole valley of the Ohio, some of the Atlantic states, and the Gulf of Mexico; by the Missouri, which passes.through the central part of the state, she can extend her commercial intercourse to the Rocky Mountains. The climate is variable, in winter the streams are sometimes frozen so as to admit the passage of heavy loaded vehicles; the summers are very hot, but the air is dry and pure, and the climate may be classed among those most favorable to health. The soil of the state, speaking generally, is good and of great agri- MISSOURI 409 cultural capabilities, particularly the bottom lands, bordering the rivers. The principal agricultural staples are Indian corn and hemp. The southern highlands are finely adapted to the culture of the grape. In 1810. the pop- ulation was less than 20,000 ; in 1830, in was 140,000; in 1850, 682,214, of whom 87,422 were slaves; in 1860, 1173,317, including 114,965 slaves. Central part of the Levee, at St. Louis. The view was taken from Bloody Island, near the Railroad Di^pot, on the Illinois side of the Mississippi, and Bhows the steamboats lying at the Levee, in the vicinity of the Custom House, and the Court House, the nppur portion of which is seen in the distance. The river front here, for a long distance, is generally crowded with steamers, lying abreast of each other, in tiers of three and four deep, indicating the extra- ordinary commerce of the city. ST. Lours, the. commercial capital of Missouri, and of the great central valley of the Mississippi, is situated - on the W. bank of the Mississippi, 18 miles below the junction of the Mis^uri. It is in 38 37' 28" N. Lat., and 90 15' 16" W. Long., about 1,200 miles above New Orleans, 340 from Cin- cinnati, 822 from St. Pan], 274 from Louisville, Ky., 180 above Cairo, and 125 from Jefferson City, the capital of the state. The compact part of the city stretches about three miles along the river, and two miles back. The site rises from the river into two limestone elevations, the first, twenty, and the second forty feet above the ordinary floods of the Mississippi. The ascent to the first is rather abrupt, the second rises more gradually, and spreads out into an extensive plain. The city is well laid out, the streets being for the most part 60 feet wide, and, with few exceptions cross each other at right angles. Front-street, which extends along the levee, is upward of 100 feet broad, built upon the side facing the river with a massive range of stone ware- houses, which make an imposing appearance. The population of St. Louia 410 MISSOURI. in 1840, was 16,469; in 1850, 82,774; and in 1860, 162,179. About one third of the inhabitants are natives of Germany or their descendants. St. Louis is sometimes fancifully called the "Mound City" from a great mound, at the base of which it was first settled, and which is said by the In- dians to have been the burial place of their ancestors for centuries. The natural advantages which St. Louis enjoys, as a commercial emporium, are probably equal to any inland port in the world. Situated midway be- tween two oceans, and near the geographical center of the finest agricultural and mineral region of the globe, almost at the very focus toward which con- verge the Mississippi, the Missouri, the Ohio, and the Illinois Rivers, she seems destined to be the great receiving and distributing depot for a vast re- gion of country. It is now, next to New Orleans, the principal port on the Mississippi, and among the western cities is the rival to Cincinnati in popu- lation and wealth. "In a circuit of less than 90 miles from the city, iron, coal, lead, and probably copper, are sufficiently abundant to supply the Union for indefinite ages, and of this region St. Louis is the only outlet. The man- ufactures of St. Louis embrace a great variety of products. Among the manufacturing establishments may be mentioned, extensive iron works, flour- ing mills, sugar refineries, manufactures of hemp, rope and bagging factories, tobacco factories, oil mills, etc. The city is supplied with water from the Mississippi, drawn up by two engines, each of about 350 horse power, and forced through a 20 inch pipe to the reservoir, located about one mile west, and capable of holding thirty-two millions of gallons. Very few cities in the Union have improved more rapidly in the style of its public buildings, than St. Louis; among these is the magnificent court house, which occupies a square, presenting a front on four streets : it is con- structed of limestone, and erected at an expense of upward of one million of dollars. The custom house, another noble building, is fire proof, con- structed of Missouri marble. The Lindell House is one of the most exten- sive and beautiful of hotels. The Mercantile Library building is a fine structure, having one of the best halls in the western states, capable of seating 2,300 persons. The library connected with the institution consists of upward of 14,000 volumes. The Library Association, among the curios- ities in their possession, have the original model of John Fitch's steam en- gine, made about the year 1795 ; it is some two feet high, with a copper boiler. They also have a marble slab, about seven feet square, from the ruins of ancient Ninevah, covered with a figure in bas-relief and interesting cunei- form inscriptions. The St. Louis University, under the direction of the Cath- olics, has a spacious building in the city, with 18 instructors, and about 300 students, and some 15,000 volumes in its libraries. This institution was founded, in 1829, by members of the Society of Jesus, and was incorporated by the legislature in 1832. In the museum connected with the University, is the dagger of Cortez, 14 inches long, the blade consisting of two divisions, with an apparatus and spring in the hilt for containing and conveying poison. The Washington University was founded in 1853. The city contains various other excellent literary institutions : among these are several medical colleges. There are also hospitals, dispensaries, and other charities, for the medical care of the destitute. Among the charitable institutions, the most conspic- uous are the Protestant and Catholic Orphan Asylums the first under the direction of Protestant ladies, and the latter of the Sisters of Charity. The total value of the taxable property of St. Louis, for 1860, was about 100 millions of dollars. MISSOURI. 411 The subjoined sketch of the history of St. Louis, is extracted from the London edition of the work of Abbe Domenech,* the original being in French: St. Louis, the Queen of the West, was French by birth ; her cradle was sus- pended in the forest watered by the Mississippi ; her childhood was tried by many privations; and her adolescence was reached amid the terrors inspired by the In- dian's cry. Her youth, though more calm, was scarcely more happy. Abandoned by her guardian, the Lion of Castile, she was again claimed by her ancient mother; but only to be forsaken anew. She then passed under the protecting wing of the American eagle, and became the metropolis of the Empire of the Deserts. South-eastern view of the Court JIov.se, St. Louis. M. d'Abadie, civil and military director-general, and governor of Louisiana, con- ceded, in 1762, to Messrs. Pierre Ligueste, Laclede, Antoine Maxan. and Company, the monopoly of the fur trade with the Indians of Mississippi and Missouri. M. Laclede, a man of remarkable intelligence, of .an enterprising character, and the principal chief of the company, immediately prepared an expedition, with a view of forming a large establishment in the north-west. On the 3d of August, 1763, he startod from New Orleans, and on the 3d of November following, he reached St. Genevieve, situatec} sixty miles south of where St. Louis is actually built. At that epoch the French colony, established sixty years before in Illinois, was in a surprising state of prosperity. It had considerably augmented its importance since 1732, at which period France was beginning to realize her great conception of uniting Canada to Louisiana by an extensive line of military posts, that were *" Seven Years Residence in the Great Deserts of North America, by the Abbe Em Domenech, Apostolical Missionary, Canon of Montpellier, Member of the Pontificial Acad- emy Tiberina, and of the Geographical and Ethnographical Societies of France, etc.: " io two volumes. 412 MISSOURI. to have been supported by forts, the strategic positions of which were admirably chosen. But when M. Laclede arrived in the country, Louis XV had already signed the shameful treaty by which he ceded to England, in a most blamable and incon- siderate manner, one of the finest regions of the globe, the possession of which had cost nearly a century of efforts, discoveries, and combats, besides enormous sums of money. By that^ treaty, which will cover with eternal ignominy the memory of Louis XV, France yielded up to great Britain the two Canadies, the immense ter- ritory of the northern lakes, and the rich states of Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, and Western Louisiana, as far as the Gulf of Mexico. The Britannic frontiers, north, west, and south, were then surrounded by that French race, so antipathetic to the Saxon one. It enveloped them by its power and its immense territory, by an uinterrupted chain of fertile countries, which ex- tend from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, following the interminable and rich val- ley of the Mississippi, which winds round the English possessions like the coiling serpent whose innumerable folds entwined the Laocoon. Unhappily for France, the statesmen of her luxurious court were short-sighted in this matter; they did not know the value of our transatlantic dominions, nor forsee what the future might do for them. Occupied with miserable palace intrigues, they basely abandoned our finest colonies, and merely sought feebly to prolong their agony. Napoleon him- self committed a great fault when he ceded Louisiana for fifteen millions. He thought that a bird in the hand was better than two in the bush ; but what a bush he sold for such a sum! Louisiana, that of herself contains colossal wealth, did she not give birth to many powerful states by dismembering herself? Did she not draw toward Texas, Kansas, New Mexico, and California? When one thinks of this great and irreparable loss which Louis XV and Napoleon I csaused France to suffer, one can not help sighing at the blindness of that fatal policy, which, for the sake of passing difficulties, from pusillanimous fear, or from the want of perfect knowledge of the resources and importance of the colonies, forgets the honor and interest of the empire it rules. It was thus that in the time of M. Laclede, the Mississippi became the natural Itoundary of the French and English possessions ; St. Genevieve was the only French settlement on the right bank of the river, all the others, being on the left, were made over to the English. After a short sojourn in that village, M. Laclede explored the country, and discovering, sixty miles more to the north, a table-land seventy-five feet above the Mississippi, and covered with forests and fertile ground, he took possession of it and laid the foundation of a town, which he named St. Louis, in the presence of the French officers of the Chartres and of two young Creoles, Messrs. Auguste and Pierre Chouteau. We had the satisfaction of seeing the latter in 1847, during the festival celebrated at St. Louis in honor of Laclede. Scarcely was the rising colony established, which was augmented by French, Creole, and Illinois emigrants, who would not remain under the English dominion, when it was greatly alarmed by the arrival of 400 Indians, who, without being hos- tile, were nevertheless very troublesome, on account of their continual demands for provisions and the daily robberies they committed. M. Laclede made all pos- sible haste to rescue his establishment from the peril that menaced it, and imme- diately acted in a manner that showed his tact and his profound knowledge of the Indian character. The chieftains having appeared in his presence, addressed him. in these terms : " We are deserving of pity, for we are like ducks and geese seeking clear water whereon to rest, as also to find an easy existence. We know of no bott^ttplace than where we are. We therefore intend to build our wigwams around your village/ -.We shall be your children, and you will be our father." Laclede put an end to the conversation by promising to give his answer the next day, which he did in the following manner: " You told me yesterday that you were like ducks and geese that seek a fair country wherein to rest and live at ease. You told me that you were worthy of pity ; that you had not found a more favorable spot to establish yourselves in than this one; that you would build your village around me, and that we could live together as friends. I shall now an- swer you as a kind father: and will tell you that, if you imitate the ducks and geese, you follow improvident guides; for, if they had any forethought, they would not establish MISSOURI. 413 themselves on clear water where they may be perceived by the eagle that will pounce on them. It would not have been so had they chosen a retired spot well shaded with trees. You, Missourians, will not be devoured by birds of prey, but by the red men, who have fought so long against you, and who have already so seriously reduced your number. At this very moment they are not far from us, watching the English to prevent them from tak- ing possession of their new territories. If they find you here they will slay your warriors and make your wives and children slaves. This is what will happen to you, if, as 'you say, you follow the example of the ducks and geese, instead of listening to the counsels of men who reflect. Chieftains and warriors, think now, if it is not more prudent for you to go away quietly rather than to be crushed by your enemies, superior to you in number, in the presence of your massacred sires, of your wives and children torn to pieces and thrown to the dogs and vultures. Remember that it is a good father who speaks to you ; meditate on what he has said, and return this evening with your answer." In the evening the entire tribe of the Missourians presented itself in a body be- fore M. Laclede, and announced to him that its,intention was to follow his advice ; the chiefs then begged of him to have pity on the women, and children, by giving them some provisions, and a little powder to the warriors. M. Laclede acceded liberally to their request, and sent them off next day well supplied and happy. On the 17th of July, 1755, M. de St. Ange de Bellerive resigned the command of the frontiers to the English, and came to St. Louis with his troops and the civic officers. His arrival favored the definitive organization of the colony ; St. Louis became the capital of Upper Louisiana, and M. de St. Ange was appointed gov- ernor of the place. But Louis XV had made, in 1763, another treaty, by which he ceded to Spain the remainder of our possessions in North America. This treaty, kept secret during a year, completed the measure of humiliations and losses that France had to endure iinder such a reign. The official news of it was only re- ceived at Xew Orleans on the '21st of April, 1764, and the consternation it spread throughout Upper and Lower Louisiana was such that the governor, M. d'Abadie, died of grief. Serious disturbances were the consequence, and the tragical events which took place under the command of Gen. O'Reilly, of sanguinary memory, caused the administration of Upper Louisiana to remain in the hands of the French for several years. It was only on the llth of August; 1768, that the Spanish troops wjjte able to take possession of St. Louis for the first time, and even then they could nlrt hold the position above eleven months. At last, peace being restored, the Span- lards again became masters of all the country in 1770, five years before the death of M. de St. Ange, who expired at St. Louis in 1775. aged seventy-six years. M. Laclede died at the Post of the Arkansas on the 20th of July, 1778, leaving no children. In 1780, St. Louis was unsuccessfully attacked by 1,000 Indians and English- men, from Michillimackinac, who had received orders to seize upon the town on account of the part the Spaniards had taken in the war of American independ- ence. Spain never sought to derive any advantage from the resources of Upper Louis- iana : it would seem as if she merely considered that mighty region as a barrier against the encroachments of her neighbor on her Mexican possessions. This policy alone can explain her indifference with regard to the government of that country. When she took possession of all the territory situated to the west of the Mississippi, she found there a French population already acclimated, civilized, and inured to fatigues, owing to the long wars it sustained against the English and the Indians. The prospect of a calm and peaceable existence had assembled this pop- ulation on the borders of Arkansas, of the Mississippi, and of the Missouri, where it only awaited a protecting government, to enable it to give to industry and agri- culture all possible development. All that Spain had to do was to open markets for its produce, and for exchanges with the southern colonies. This extensive em- S're, possessing the largest natural advantages, bounded by the Mississippi, the issouri, and the Pacific Ocean, might have, owing to the preponderance that it could have acquired (as we witness in our days), changed the course of events which have taken place in Europe since that epoch. France could not aspire to such power as long as she possessed Canada, but she should have thought of it when she abandoned that colony. The immense results obtained by the liberal institutions of the United States show clearly, in the present day, that the loss of 414 MISSOURI. Canada would have turned to our advantage; and that by developing the produce of the possessions which we still retained to the west of the Mississippi, e hould soon have been amply compensated for the sacrifices made in 1763, after the taking of Quebec. Such was the opinion of the intelligent men of France. Turgot, our celebrated statesman, in particular, foresaw the advantages to be derived from such a policy, and he even submitted a plan to the king by means of which that vast re- gion he called Equinoctial France, was to become densely populated in a short time. But, as M. Nicollet observes in his essay on the primitive history of St. Louis, he was treated as a visionary. What was easy for France was still much more so for Spain ; but instead of adopt- ing this simple policy liberal and grand in its results Spain contented herself with isolating the colonists and the Indians of Missouri and of Mississippi, imposing an arbitrary government upon them, checking all communication between the neigh- boring populations; establishing restrictions on importation, prohibiting foreign competition, restricting emigration, granting exclusive privileges, and making, without any conditions, concessions of lands, etc. It is not surprising, then, that she complains that her colonies cost her more than she realized by them. No- where, either in her laws or in her decrees, is there to be found a plan adopted with a view of developing the natural and moral resources of these countries. As the government appeared only to occupy itself with the exigencies of each day, in like manner the inhabitants did not seem to think of the morrow. The Creoles of Upper Louisiana, who were the descendants of a brave and enterprising nation, not finding in this state of things any support for their physical and moral faculties, penetrated into the depths of the forests, got amid a multitude of savage tribes whom they had not heard of before, began to explore the regions situated between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, and created the fur trade in that exten- sive portion of North America. In this way was formed that class of intrepid men called voyageurs or engages, of whom we have already spoken, and who were as necessary in the plains of the west as are the Canadian voyagevrs in the frozen countries of the north and north-west. Meanwhile America had attained her independence, and France was commen'c- ing her revolution, when, all of a sudden, on the 9th of July, 1803, at seven o'clock in the evening, the inhabitants of St. Louis learned that Spain had re-ceded Louis- iana to Napoleon, who, in turn had sold it to the United States. We will make no remark on the profound sensation produced by this unexpected news. We will merely observe that the colonists could scarcely recover from their astonishment on hearing that they had become republicans, and seeing a multitude of judges, lawyers, notaries, tax-gatherers, etc., arriving among them. They were even less able to understand that liberty which obliged them to leave their homes to vote at elections, or to serve as jurors. They had allowed civilization to advance without taking any notice of it. Their existence was so isolated, so simplified, that they lost sight of the advantages of social life. They possessed no public schools, and the missionaries, being too few in number, were seldom able to visit or in- struct them in their religious duties. The object of their material life did not go beyond the domestic circle, the virtue and honesty of which were proverbial. They knew nothing of notaries, lawyers, or judges; and the prison remained empty during thirty years. To give an idea of the simplicity of the Creoles, we can not do better than relate an incident that took place a few years after the cession of Louisiana to the United States. A Creole from Missouri was lounging about a sale of negro slaves on the bor- ders of the Mississippi, in Lower Louisiana. The merchant, who was from Ken- tucky, asked him if he wished to buy anything: "Yes," replied the Missourian, "I want a negro." Having made his choice, he inquired the price of the one he selected. "Five hundred piastres," replied the merchant; "but, according to cus- tom, you have one year to pay." At this proposition the purchaser became em- barrassed; the thought of being liable to such a debt during an entire year annoyed him greatly. "No, no!" said he to the merchant, "I prefer paying you at once six hundred piastres, nnd letting the matter be ended." "Very well,' said the obliging Kentuckian, " I will do anything you please to make the affair con- venient to you." And the bargain was concluded. MISSOURI. 41 5 Tho Spanish troops departed from Louisiana on the 3d of November, 1804 The American governor, VV. H. Harrison, who had the chief command of the In dian territories of Upper Louisiana, organized the civil and judicial power of that country; and on the 2d of July, 1805, Gen. James Wilkinson established there, by order of congress, a territorial government, of which St. Louis was the capital. Thegreatmilitary event in the annals of St. Louis was the attack upon the town by the English and Indians from Mackinaw, in 1780. The citizens had intelligence the previous fall of the contemplated expedition, and there- upon fortified the town with a rude stockade six feet high, made by two rows of upright palisades, a few feet apart, filled in between with earth. The out- line of the stockade described a semi-circle around the place, resting its ex- tremities upon the river, above and below the town, flanked by a small fort at each extremity. Three gates gave opening to the country in the rear, each defended by a piece of ordnance, kept well charged. Monette, in his History of the Mississippi Valley, gives these particulars : The British commandant at Michillimackinac, hearing of the disasters of the British arms in Florida, conceived the idea of leading an expedition upon his own responsibility against the Spanish settlement of St. Louis. Early in the spring he had assembled one hundred and forty regular British troops and Canadian Frenchmen, and fourteen hundred Indian warriors for the campaign. From the southern extremity of Lake Michigan this host of savages, under British leaders, marched across to the Mississippi, and encamped within a few miles of St. Louis. The town had been fortified for temporary defense, and the hostile host made a regular Indian investment of the place. Skirmishes and desultory attacks continued for several days, during which many were killed, and others were taken captive by the Indians. Much of the stock of cattle and horses belonging to the place was killed or carried off. The people at length, believing a general attack was contemplated, and having lost con- fidence in their commandant's courage, or in his preparations for defense, sent a special re- quest to Col. Clark, then commanding at Kaskaskia, to come to their aid with such force as he could assemble. Col. Clark immediately made preparation to march to their relief. Having assembled nearly five hundred men under his command, he marched to the bank of the Mississippi, a short distance below the town of St. Louis. Here he remained en- camped for further observations. On the sixth of May the grand Indian attack was made, when Col. Clark, crossing the river, marched up to the town to take part in the engage- ment. The sight of the Americans, or the "Lang -knives," as they were called, under the command of the well-known Col. Clark, caused the savages to abandon the attack and seek safety in flight. They refused to participate in any further hostilities, and reproached the British commandant with duplicity in having assured them that he would march them to fight the Spaniards only, whereas now they were brought against the Spaniards and the Americans. They soon afterward abandoned the British standard, and returned to their towns, near Lakes Superior and Michigan. An old settler, writing for the Missouri Republican, in 1826, and the St. Louis Sketch Book, gives these historical items: A lapse of twenty years has ensued since I first obtained a residence in this rising town. ... It did not, when I first knew it, appear to possess even the germ of the materials which have since been so successfully used in making it the mart of commerce and the seat of plenty. Then, with some exceptions, it was the residence of the indolent trader or trapper, or more desperate adventurers. . . . Twenty years ago there were no brick buildings in St. Louis. The houses were generally of wood, built in a fashion peculiar to the country, and daubed with mud. There were, however, some of the better order, belonging to the first settlers of the town, but whose massive walls of stone were calculated to excite the wonder of the modern beholder, giving the idea of an antique fortress. What was then called Chouteau's Hill, but which has since lost that distinctive appellation, was nothing else than a barren waste, over which the wind whistled in its unob- structed course, if we except only an occasional cumbrous fortification, intended for a de- fense, and evidencing the poverty of the country in military as in other talent. Then, and for a long while after, the streets" were intolerably bad, resembling the roads in Ohio, where 416 MISSOURI it is related of a man that, his hat was taken from his head just as ho was disappearing forever in the regions of mud. Twenty years since, and down to a much later period, the commerce of the country, on the Mississippi, was carried on in Mackinaw batteaux and keel boats. A voyage performed in one of the latter kind was a fearful undertaking; and the return trip from New Orleans was considered an expeditious one if made in ninety days. When an increased commerce took place, our streets were thronged with voyageurs, of all ages, countries and complex- ions. They were a source of constant trouble to a weak and inefficient police, with whom they delighted to kick up a row. Deprived, by the introduction of steamboats, of their usual means of living, and like the savage averse to settled life, they have almost entirely disappeared. At the time of which we write, the traveler who made a journey to the Atlantic states, did not resolve upon it without mature deliberation. . .. It then required from thirty to forty days to travel to Philadelphia. . . . The morals or religion of the people can not be defined. They had, it is true, vague notions of such things, but they were of so quiescent a character as to be easily set aside when in opposition to their pleas- ure or interest. There was but one church, and after a resort to this it was no uncommon thing to pass the remainder of the Sabbath evening in dancing or whist, for St. Louis then contained, at most, but a few hundred people." "Previous to the year 1829." says the Uketch Book of St. Louis, " there was no Pro- testant church in St. Louis, but in that year the first Presbyterian church was buiH, and the Rev. Artemas Bullard engaged as the minister. . . . There were places where the Methodists, Presbyterians, Baptists, Universalists, etc., held divine service, but none of them possessed church edifices until this year. In 1844, another flood, equaling that which took place in the days of Crusat, visited the Mississippi. The river rose rapidly ui:til the entire American bottom was submerged. Steamboats and all descriptions of water craft were to be seen winding their way through the woods opposite the city, conveying passengers to and from the coal hills on the Illinois shore, a distance of about twelve miles. This flood was very disastrous in its character, almost totally destroying Illinoistown, which had become a village of several thousand inhabitants. The damage was immense, while not a few lives were lost, thousands of hogs, horses, cattle, sheep, fowls, etc., were drowned. ' Many who, before the flood, were in affluent circumstances, found themselves beggared. This was a marked event upon the trade of St. Louis, and she had scarcely recovered from the effects, when another calamity befel her. Late in the fall of 1848, that dreadful scourge, the cholera, made its appear- ance; the approach of cold weather stayed in a great measure the ravages of disease, but in the spring it developed itself in full force. . . . The disease now assumed a more bold and formidable appearance, and instead of stalking through dirty lanes and filthy alleys, it boldly walked the streets. . . . Funeral processions crowded every street. . . The hum of trade was hushed. The levee was a desert.' When the disease was raging at its fiercest, the city was doomed to another horror May 17, 1843, it was burned fifteen squares were laid in ashes. The fire commenced on the steamer White Cloud. At the commencement the wind was blowing stiffly, forcing the boat directly into shore, which circumstance- contributed seriously to the mariiie disaster. The wind set into the wharf, and although the cables of all the boats were hauled in, and they drifted out into the current, yet the flaming vessel seemed to outstrip them all in the speed with which she traveled down stream. ... In a short time, perhaps thirty minutes, twenty-three vessels were burnt. . . . Fifteen blocks of houses were destroyed and in- jured, causing a loss of ten millions of dollars. Olive-street was the commencement in the city, and with the exception of one building, the entire space down to Market-street was laid in ruins. The progress of the flames was stayed by blowing up a portion of the buildings below Market-street with powder: in doing this, although timely warning was given, several persons lost their lives." In July, 1817, came the Gen. Pike, the first steamer which arrived at St. Louis. She was commanded by Capt. Jacob Reed, and was built on Bear Grass Creek, near Louisville. In 1847, on the anniversary of the city's birth, a miniature representation of the boat was exhibited, and became the most curious feature of the celebration, as showing the changes in steamboat architecture. " This miniature representation was about twenty feet long; the hull that of a barge, and the cabin on the lower deck run up on the inside of the run- ning board. The wheels were exposed, being without a wheel-house she was propelled by a low pressure engine, with a single chimney and a large walking beam. The crew were supplied with poles, and where the current proved too strong for the steam, they used the poles, as on keel beats, to help her along. It was mounted on wheels, and drawn by eight white horses. The boat was manned by a crew of steamboat captains, who appeared in the dress usually worn by the officers and men in their various stations." MISSOURI. 417 Bloody Island, opposite St. Louis, near the Illinois shore of the Missis- sippi, is the terminus of the Ohio and Mississippi Railroad. It received its name from the circumstance of its being the dueling ground for this region. It is within the limits of Illinois, and at the time of high freshets is par- tially covered with water. It has a growth of large forest trees. This spot was selected by duelists from its being neutral ground: the island was for some time disputed territory between the states of Illinois and Missouri. A fatal contest of this kind ensued between Thomas Biddle, of St. Louis, and one of his friends, in which both were killed. The origin of the duel seems to have been some jocose remark made by the antagonist of Mr. Biddle in regard to his (Mr. Biddle's) family affairs. Mrs. Biddle foolishly considering herself insulted, gave her husband no rest until he had challenged the author of the remark to mortal combat. Having passed over to Bloody Island, they fought at the dis- tance of some three or four paces apart, and both fell mortally wounded. . Mrs. Biddle, overwhelmed at the fatal consequences of her attempt to avenge her injured feelings, devoted the remainder of her life .to penitence, and her fortune to charity. The annexed engraving is a view of a monument erected in memory of husband and wife, on the premises of St. Mary's Orphan Asylum, on Tenth-street, under the charge of the order of the "Daughters of Charity." The monument is about 20 feet high : the follow- in" words are affixed over the door, "Pray for the souls of Thomas and Anne Biddle." The following inscriptions are from monuments within the city limits: In memory of one whose name needs no eulogy, JOSEPH M. WHITE, late Delegate in Con- gress from the Territory of Florida. Born in Franklin county, Kentucky, 8th of Oct., 1798, died in St. Louis, at the residence of his brother, Thomas J. White, M.D., the 19th day of October, 1839. BIDDLE MONUMENT, ST. Louis. Over the door are the words, Pray for the souit of Thomas and Anne Biddle. THOMAS BARBOUR, M.D., son of the Hon. P. P. Barbour, of Virginia. Born Aug. 28> 1810, and died June 18, 1849. In all the relations of life, he illustrated the strength and 1 beauty of Christian principle ardent affection, generous friendship, and fervent charity were the spontaneous emotions of a heart imbued with the holy desire of glorifying od* *nd doing good to man. As a practitioner of medicine he had attained a distinguished^ eminence. With the Medical Department of the University of Missouri, his name is asso- ciated as one of its founders and most able and faithful teachers. With the early hiatory- o.f the Central Presbyterian Church, of which he was an Elder, his name ia recorded afron- of its brightest ornaments. JEFFERSON CITY, the capital of Missouri is situated on the right bank, of Missouri River, on elevated, uneven and somewhat rocky ground, 125 miles W. of St. Louis. It contains the state house, a state penitentiary, the.^gov- ernor's house, several schools, 5 churches, 2 banks, and about 3,500 inhabit- ants, of whom near one half are Germans or of German orgin. The-- state house is built of stone, at an expense of 250,000, and presents a magnifi- cent appearance as it is approached sailing up the river from the^aastward. 27 418 MISSOURI. Over the door of the main entrance of the capitol is the following inscrip- tion : " Erected Anno Domini, 1838. L. W. Bojrgs, Governor ; P. C. Glover, Sec'y of State ; H. II. Baber, And. Pub. Acets ; W. B. Napton, Att'y General; A. McClellan, Treasurer, Com- missioners. S. Hills, Architect." East view of Jefferson City. The view annexed presents the appearance of the Capitol and other buildings, as the city is entered upon the Pacific; Kail road. The blutf shown is 80 fret his;li, and on its summit is tlie residence of Gen. J. I,. Minor, formerly secretary of t!ie state. The Railroad Depot is at the foot of tin; 1. luff on the left ; the Capitol on Capitol Hill is in the central part, at the base of which is the Ferry and City Landing. The first white persons who located themselves within the limits of Jefferson City were John Wier and a Dr. Brown. Wier, who appears to have been a squatter, built his cabin on the spot where J. T. Rogers' (lute mayor) house now stands. Wier's Creek, at the foot of Capitol Hill, was named after him. Dr. Brown, Mid to have been from Ireland, located himself on the declivity of Capitol Hill. William Jones, a bricklayer, kept the first Jerry and house of entertainment at this pliice; he was succeeded by Mr. Thomas Rogers, the father of the mayor. Dr. Stephen C. Dorris, father of Dr. A. P. Dorris, was the first reg- ular physician: lie was succeeded by Dr. Bolton, and he in turn by Dr. Mills. Robert A. Ewing (afterward judge of the county court), was the first resident lawyer. Judge Wells was the next. Robert Jones was the first merchant: he had his store at the base of the Capitol Hill, near the ferry and city wharf. Among his purchases was that of two or three barrels of coffee, which at that time was considered a bold and hazardous speculation, as it was supposed it would take a long period to sell such an amount. The first school was taught by Jesse F. Roys, an itinerant teacher from North Carolina; ;le was succeeded by Hirnm H. Baber, Esq., a native of Virginia, and now, with one ex- ception, the ofdest inhabitant of Jefferson City. The school house was about half way between the railroad depot and the penitentiary. Jason Harrison, Esq., the first clerk of Cole county, was a native of Maryland; he came into Missouri in 1811, and into Jefferson City in 1831. The first brick structure erected was a one story building, 16 feet square, built by Win. Jones, and occupied as the state treasury office: it stood opposite the Metho- dist 'Church. The first state house was built of brick, by Reuben Garnett, and stood in a lot adjoining the governor's house. It was accidentally burnt in Nov., 1837, and all the state papers, except those in the auditor's office destroyed. The seat of government was located 1 !!! 1F21, laid out in 1822, and the first sale of lots was made in 1823. The first trustees of the town were Adam Hope, John C. Gordon, and Josiah Ramsay, jr. The first governor resident in Jefferson City, was John Miller, and a man of great wealth. He died while member of Congress, and was buried at St. Louis. MISSOURI. 419 The first printing press was started here in 1826, by Calvin Ounn, who, it is believed, was from Connecticut. It was called the "Jeffersonian Republican." The first house for public worship here was erected by the Methodists and Baptists: this was in 1838. The Episcopal church was erected in 1842; the first resident Episcopal clergyman was I^cv. Wm. L. Hommann. The first Presbyterian church was built about the year 1845, and tho first resident clergyman was Rev. Hiram S. Goodrich, D.D., from the eastern states, who came here about 1843. The Catholics, who are the largest religious body in the city, erected their first house of worship in 1847: their present handsome structure was built in 1857. The state penitentiary was opened about 1835: the first warden was Gen. Lewis Bolton, and for about three months he had but one convict under his charge, who was put here for horse stealing or some kindred crime. This prisoner was much delighted when the next convict arrived, for he was quite weary of solitude. The Missouri River is about 1,1.100 yards wide at this place, its ordinary current three and a half miles an hour, and its fall four inches to the mile. The ordinary rise of water here is from 10 to 15 feet above low water mark. The highest floods occur annually in June, like the annual overflow of the Nile in Egypt. It is caused by the melting of the snow in the Rocky Mountains, nearly 3,000 miles distant. One of the greatest rise of waters known was on the 24th of June, 1844, at which time the water rose thirty feet above low water mark. In this section the principal fish are the cat, buffalo, and shovel fish: sturgeon are also taken. The cat fish ordinarily weigh from 3 to 25 Ibs. In some instances they have been known to weigh 200 Ibs. The method by which they are taken is called "jugging for cats." A single line about four feet in length, having a hook baited withNflesh, is attached to the handle of a gallon jug and then thrown into the middle of the current of the river. When the bait- is swallowed it is known by the sinking of the jug, which acts like a cork: the fisherman thereupon takes up the line and secures the fish. The fisherman's usual method is to go up the stream, throw in his jugs, and float down with them, hugging the shore with his boat, so as to be in a position to closely watch his jugs, of which he can generally oversee some 10 or 12 at a time. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Jefferson City graveyard: Erected by the State of Missouri to the memory of Gov. THOMAS REYNOLDS, who died Feb. 9, 18-1?, aged 48 years. He was born in Bracken county, Kentucky, March 12, 1796 : in early life he became a citizen of the State of Illinois, and there filled the several offices of Clerk of the House of Representatives, Attorney General, Speaker of the House of Rep- resentatives, and Chief Justice of the Supreme Court. In 1829, he removed to the State of Missouri, and was successively Speaker of the House of Representatives, Judge of the Second Judicial Circuit, and died Governor of the State. His life was one of honor, virtue and patriotism, and in every situation in which he was placed, he discharged his duty faith- fully. In memory of PETER G. GLOVER, born in Buckingham county, Va., Jan. 14, 1792 ; died in Osage county, Oct. 27, 1851, and lies buried here. He emigrated to Kentucky in early life, then to Missouri, where he filled the important public offices of the Justice of the County Court, Representative from Callaway, Senator from Cole, Auditor of Public Ac- counts, Superintendent of Common Schools, and Treasurer of the State, to the satisfaction of the people. As a father, husband, and friend, he was without reproach. WM. A. ROBARDS, late Attorney General of the State of Missouri, born in Ky., May 3, 1817; died Sept. 3, 1851. Erected by the State of Missouri, of which he was a worthy cit- izen, and its able and faithful officer, having filled several offices of public trust. New Madrid, the seat of New Madrid county, is on the Mississippi, 1 50 miles below St. Louis, in the south-eastern corner of the state, arid has about 1,000 inhabitants. This is one of the old towns of Missouri, and the earliest American settlement west of the Mississippi River. Through the diplomatic talents of Colonel Wilkinson, the Spanish governor of Louisiana was induced to adopt a policy of conciliation to the western people, in hopes of attaching them to the Spanish government, and so forming a political union with tho 420 MISSOURI. Louisianians, that should terminate in a dismemberment of the east from the west, and an incorporation of the latter under the Spanish crown. Says Monette : The first step toward the a ^omplishment of this desirable object wag the plan of form- ing American settlements in Upper Louisiana, as well as in the Florida district of Lower Louisiana. A large American settlement was to be formed on the west side of the Mis- sissippi, between the mouth of the Ohio and the St. Francis River. General Morgan, an American citizen, received a large grant of land about seventy miles below the mouth of tho Ohio, upon which he was to introduce and settle an American colony. Soon afterward and in 1788, General Morgan arrived with his colony, and located it about seventy miles below the mouth of the Ohio, upon the ancient alluvions which extend westward to the Whitewater Creek, within the present county of New Madrid, in Missouri. Here, upon the beautiful rolling plains, he laid off the plan of a magnificent city, which, in honor of the Spanish capital, he called " New Madrid." The extent and plan of the new city was but little, if any, inferior to the old capital which it was to commemorate. Spacious streets, extensive public squares, avenues, and promenades were tastefully laid off to mag- nify and adorn the future city. In less than twelve months from its first location, it had assumed, according to Major Stoddart, the appearance of a regularly built town, with nu- merous temporary houses distributed over a high and beautiful undulatory plain. Its lati- tude was determined to be 36 deg. 30 min. north. In the center of the site, and about one mile from the Mississippi, was a beautiful lake, to be inclosed by the future streets of the city. This policy was continued for nearly two years, in hopes of gaining over the western people to an adherence to the Spanish interests. Nor was it wholly unsuccessful. In the meantime, many individuals in Kentucky, as well as on the Cumberland, had become fa- vorably impressed toward a union with Louisiana under the Spanish crown, and a very large portion of them had been highly dissatisfied with the policy of the Federal govern- ment, because it had failed to secure for them the free navigation of the river, either by formal negotiation or by force of arms. But this state of mitigated feeling toward the Spanish authorities was of but short duration. New Madrid was nearly ruined by the great earthquakes of the winter of 1811-12, it being the center of the most violent shocks. JThe first occurred in the night of 15th Dec., 1811, and they were repeated at in- tervals for two or three months, being felt from Pittsburg to New Orleans. By them the Little Prairie settlement, thirty miles below this place, was en- tirely broken up, and Great Prairie nearly ruined. The graveyard at New Madrid, with its sleeping tenants, was precipitated into the river, and the town dwindled to insignificance and decay. Thousands of acres in this sec- tion of the country sunk, and mulfitudes of ponds and lakes were created in their places. "The earth burst in what are called sand blows. Earth, sand, coal, and water were thrown up to great hights in the air." The Mississippi was dammed up and flowed backward; birds descended from the air, and took refuge in the bosoms of people that were passing. The whole country was inundated. A great number of boats that were passing on the river were sunk, and whole crews perished ; one or two that were fastened to islands went down with them. The country being but sparsely settled, and the build- ings mostly logs, the loss of life was less than it otherwise would have been. Col. John Shaw gives these reminiscences of this event.* While lodging about thirty miles north of New Madrid, on the 14th of December, 1811, about two o'clock in the morning, occurred a heavy shock of an earthquake. The house where I was stopping, was partly of wood and partly of brick structure; the brick portion 11 fell, but I and the family all fortunately escaped unhurt. At another shock, about two o'clock in the morning of the 7th of February, 1812, I was in New Madrid, when nearly two thousand people, of all ages, fled in terror from their falling dwellings, in that place *" Personal Narrative of Col. John Shaw, of Marquette county, Wisconsin," published in the Collections of the Historical Society of Wisconsin. MISSOURI. 421 and the surrounding country, and directed their course about thirty miles north to Ty wap- pety Hill, on the western bank of the Mississippi, about seven miles back from the river This was the first high ground above New Madrid, and here the fugitives formed an en- campment. It was proposed that all should kneel, and engage in supplicating God's mercy, and all simultaneously, Catholics and Protestants, knelt and offered solemn prayer to their Creator. About twelve miles back toward New Madrid, a young woman about seventeen years, of age, named Betsey Masters, had been left by her parents and family, her leg having been broken below the knee by the falling of one of the weight-poles of the roof of the cabin; and, though a total stranger, I was the only person who would consent to return and see whether she still survived. Receiving a description of the locality of the place, I started, and found the poor girl upon a bed, as she had been left, with some water and corn bread within her reach. I cooked up some food for her, and made her condition as comfortable as circumstances would allow, and returned the same day to the grand en- campment. Miss Masters eventually recovered. In abandoning their homes, on this emergency, the people only stopped long enough to get their teams, and hurry in their families and some provisions. It was a matter of doubt among them, whether water or fire would be most likely to burst forth, and cover all the country. The timber land around New Madrid sunk five or six feet, so that the lakes and lagoons, which seemed to have their beds pushed up, discharged their waters over the sunken lands. Through the fissures caused by the earthquake, were forced up vast quantities of a hard, jet black substance, which appeared very smooth, as though worn by friction. It seemed a very different substance from either anthracite or bituminous coal.* This hfgira, with all its attendant appalling circumstances, was a most heart-rending scene, and had the effect to constrain the most wicked and profane, earnestly to plead to God in prayer for mercy. In less than three months, most of these people returned to their homes, and though the earthquakes continued occasially with less destructive effects, they became so accustomed to the recurring vibration?, that they paid little or no regard to them, not even interrupting or checking their dances, frolics, and vices. Father Cartwright, in his autobiography, gives us some facts to show that the earthquakes proved an element of strength to the Methodists. He tells us: In the winter of 1812 we had a very severe earthquake; it seemed to stop the current of the Mississippi, broke flatboats loose from their moorings, and opened large cracks or fissures in the earth. This earthquake struck terror to thousands of people, and under the mighty panic hundreds and thousands crowded to, and joined the different churches. There were many very interesting incidents connected with the shaking of the earth at this time; two I will name. I had preached in Nashville the night before the second dreadful shock came, to a large congregation. Early the next morning I arose and walked out on the hill near the house where I had preached, when I saw a negro woman coming down the hill to the spring, with an empty pail upon her head. (It is very common for negroes to carry water this way without touching the pail with either hand.) When she got within a few rods of where I stood, the earth began to tremble and jar; chimneys were thrown down, scaffolding around many new buildings fell with a loud crash, hundreds of the citizens suddenly awoke, and sprang into the streets; loud screaming followed, for many thought the day of judgment was come. The young mistresses of the above-named negro woman came running after her, and begging her to pray for them. She raised the shout and said to them, " My Jesus is coming in the clouds of heaven, and I can't wait to pray for you now; I must go and meet him. I told you so, that he would come, and you would not believe me. Farewell. Hallelujah! Jesus is coming, and I am ready. Halle- lujah! Amen." And on she went, shouting and clapping her hands, with the empty pail on her head. Near Russellville, Logan county, Kentucky, lived old Brother Valentine Cook, of very precious memory, with his wife Tabitha. Brother Cook was a graduate at Cokesbury Col- lege at an early day in the history of Methodism in these United States. He was a very pious, successful pioneer preacher, but, for the want of a sufficient support for a rising and rapidly increasing family, he had located, and was teaching school at the time of the above *The late Hon. Lewis F. Linn, a resident of St. Genevieve, and for many years a mem- ber of the United States senate from Missouri, and a man of science, addressed a letter, in 1836, to the chairman of the committee on commerce, in which he speaks of the New Mad- rid earthquakes, and distinctly mentions water, sand, and coal issuing from the vast chasing opened by the convulsions. 422 MISSOURI. named earthquake. He and his wife were in bed when the earth began to shake and trem- ble. He sprang out of bed, threw open the door, and began to shout, and started, with nothing on but his night-clothes. He steered his course east, shouting every step, saying, " My Jesus is coming." His wife took after him, and at the top of her voice cried out, "O Mr. Cook, don't leave me." "0 Tabby," said he, " my Jesus is coming, and I can not wait for you ; " and on he went, shouting at every jump, "My Jesus is coming; I can't wait for you. Tabby.'" The years of the excitement by these earthquakes hundreds joined the Methodist Epis- copal Church, and though many were sincere, and stood firm, yet there were hundreds that no doubt had joined them from mere fright. The earthquake gave Tecumseh, the Shawnee chieftain, the reputation of a prophet among the Indians of Alabama. A few months previous to this event, he was on his mission to the southern Indians, to unite all the tribes of the south with those of the north in his grand scheme of exterminating the whole white race from the wide extent of the Mississippi valley from the lakes of the north to the Gulf of Mexico. Drake, in his memoir of Te- cumseh, gives this anecdote: On his return from Florida, Tecumseh went among the Creeks m Alabama, urging them to unite with the Seminoles. Arriving at Tuckhabatchee, a Creek town on the Tallapoosa River, lie made his way to the lodge of the chief, called the Big Warrior. He explained his object, delivered his war talk, presented a bundle of sticks, gave a peace of wampum and a hatchet; all which the Big Warrior took.- When Tecumseh, reading the intentions and spirit of the Big Warrior, looked him in the eye, and pointing his finger toward his face, said: " Your blood is white; you have taken my talk, and the sticks, and the wam- puni, and the hatchet, but you do not mean to fight; I know the reason; you do not be- lieve the Great Spirit has sent me; you shall know; I leave Tuckhabatchee directly, and shall go straight to Detroit; when I arrive there, I will stamp on the ground with my foot, and shake down every house in Tuckhabatchee." So saying, he turned and left the Big Warrior in utter amazement, at both his manner and his threat, and pursued his journey. The Indians were struck no less with his conduct than was the Big Warrior, and began to dread the arrival of the day when the threatened calamity would befall them. They met often and talked over this matter, and counted the days carefully, to know the time when Tecumseh would reach Detroit. The morning they had fixed upon, as the period of his arrival, at last came. A mighty rumbling was heard the Indians all ran out of their houses the earth began to shake; when at last, sure enough, every house in Tuckhabat- chee was shaken down! The exclamation was in every mouth, "Tecumseh has got to Detroit! " The effect was electrical. The message he had delivered to the Big Warrior was believed, and many of the Indians took their rifles and prepared for the war. The reader will not be surprised to learn that an earthquake had produced all this; but he will be, doubtless, that it should happen on the very day on which Tecumseh arrived at Detroit; and, in exact fulfillment of his threat. It was the famous earthquake of New Madrid. LEXINGTON, the county seat of Fayette, is situated for the most part on high grounds, on the south bank of the Missouri. The bluffs at the landing being about 200 feet above the river, the city is but partially seen from the decks of passing steamers. It is 125 miles above Jefferson City, and 250 from St. Louis. It contains the county buildings, 8 churches, the Masonic College, a flourishing "institution, under the patronage of the Masonic fra- ternity of the state, and about 5,000 inhabitants. Fayette. the county in which Lexington is situated, ranks the second in wealth in Missouri. Hemp is the most important production. Inexhausti- ble beds of bituminous coal are found in almost every part of the county, and the soil is rich and fertile. The Messrs. McGrew's establishment for the manufacture of bale rope, at Lexington landing, is admirably constructed. The hemp is unloaded at the upper story, and passes through the various stages of its manufacture, till it comes out bales of rope, ready for transpor- tation to market, in the warehouse below. The machinery is moved by MISSOURI. 423 steam, the coal to produce which is dug out of tha earth a few feet only from the building. Eight tuns of rope can be manufactured daily. Vieir of Lfyini/ttm. La,>dhi;/. The engraving shows the appearance of the steamboat landing a* it appears from the point on the opposite side of Missouri River. TUc Messrs. M'Grexv's Kemp Factory, KKmriug Mil 1 , tto-., are ei^Hi in tin; central part ; tlie ri>ar the old court house. Rev. John L. Yantis, now president of the Theological College at Richmond, wfs one of the first preachers. The inhabitants previously attended public worship in the country, back from the river. The Bapiist and Methodist, churchc- were creeled in 184'). The Episcopal church is a recent strikUire; the first inimster \vl-o officiated was Rev. St. Michael Fackler, DOW a missionary in Oregon. The Dutch Reformed Church bought thcu- meeting house of the Christians or C.unpbellite Baptists, in 16. r >G. The iiot regular public house in the modem part of Lexington, was the house next the resideii' e of Robert Aull, the president of the bank, on the summit of the bluff. This spot comma]!*'" an extensive prospect up and down the river, showing Wellington, 8 miles distant, also Camden, in Ray county, some 8 o: 10 miles distant in a direct line, but 18 by the river. The first regular ferryniiin was William Jack, a Methodist class leader and ex- lior'.ci 1 , a man much esteemed for his Christian life and conversation. In 1827, 0. R. JVJore- heul, cashier of the Farme.-'s Hank, built and loaded the first flathoat, in which he trans- ported the first tobacco raised for export in the comity. This cargo, which consisted of forty-six hogsheads, with a quantity of bees-wax and peltries, was sent, to New Orleans. Tlie first goods brought by steamboats came in 1828, by tlie steamer William Duncan. In 1838, at the period of the Mormon war. as it was called, Lexington contained some 500 inhabitants. The Mormons first loc-ited themselves in Jackson county, about 3,') miles west. They afterward effected a more permanent settlement in Caldwell county. At, first they were enabled to live peaceably with their neighbors. In 1838, difficulties arising, the governor of Missouri gave orders for their expulsion. A conflict took place in Ray county, in which Patten, a Mormon leader and elder was killed, and a number wounded. During this period it was quite a time of alarm iu this section, and the inhabitants of Lexington fled to Richmond for safety. Win. Downing is believed to have been the first innkeeper in the ancient part of Lexing- ton. Wm. Todd was the first judge of the circuit court; the present judge, Russcl Hicks, 424 MISSOURI. who first came into the county about the year 1825, hired himself out to a farmer for about ten dollars a month. He afterward became a school teacher, and while studying law, he supported himself by this occupation. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the graveyard in this place: In memory of REV. FINIS EWING, born in Bedford county, Va., July 10, 1773, died in Lexington, Mo., July 4,1841. He was a Minister of the Gospel for forty-five years ; was one of the fathers and founders of the Cumberland Presbyterian Church. In memory of Reverend JESSK GREENE, born Nov. 29, A.D. 1791, died April 18, A.D. 1847. A pure Christian, a wise Counsellor, a faithful Minister, a Pioneer of Methodism in Missouri, part in the Council and Itinerant labors of his Church, and fell at his post. "I heard a voice from heaven, saying write, Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord; Yea, saith the Spirit, their works do follow them." Rev. xiv, 13. The members of the Saint Louis Annual Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church South have erected this mon- ument over his remains, A.D. 1850. L. A. GRISWOLD, Hebe of Prudence Constellation, No. 34, A.A.R., surrendered her crown on Earth to be crowned with immortal glory in Heaven. In memory of Lockie A. Gris- wold, wife of Sylvanus A. Griswold, completed her errand of Mercy here, and was per- mitted to behold the Light of the Seraphic world, which ever inspired her with fraternal excellence, at 10 o'clock, P.M., Sept. 27, 1856. North-eastern view of Kansas City. Showing the appearance of Kansas City, at the Landing, as seen from the opposite bank of the Missouri. The forest shown in the distance, beyond the point of the bluff ou the right, is within the territorial limits of Kansas. The Ferry Landing and the old Jail or Calaboose appear ou the left. KANSAS CITY is situated near the mouth of Kansas River, at the western boundary line between the state of Missouri and Kansas, 282 miles westward of Jefferson City, 456 from St. Louis, and 109 southerly from St. Joseph, on the Missouri. It is the western terminus of the line of the Pacific Railroad. A bluff, about 120 feet above high water mark, extends along the river for about a mile within the city limits. The principal part of the town is situ- ated immediately back of the bluff, through which roads are being cut to the levee in front. This city is the great depot for the Santa Fe trade, and it ig MISSOURI. 425 estimated that one fourth of all the shipments up the Missouri River, from its mouth to the Rocky Mountains, are received here. Kansas City was in- corporated in 1853. Population about 8,000. As far back as the days of Lewis and Clarke, or the first expeditions of the vari- ous trapping companies of the French and the old pioneers of the west, the site of Kansas City has been a prominent point for the business of the old trappers and traders, who have had many a business transaction around their camp fires under the bluffs of the "Kawsmouth," as this spot was formerly called. The principal portion of the land inclosed by the old city limits was entered by Gabriel Prudhomme, an old mountain trader. The selection, survey, and first sale of the lots was made in 1838. The survey was but a partial one, and owing to some disagreement, nothing was done by the stockholders except the erection of a few cabins. In 1840, the town was re-surveyed by J. C. McCoy, Esq., and the growth of the city may be dated as commencing from that year. Within eighteen months after the first sale of lots, there was a population of about 700. The pro- prietors of the town were J. C. McCoy, Wm. Gilliss, Robert Campbell, H. Jobe, W. B. Evans, Jacob Ragan, and Fry P. McGee. The fir^t house erected in Kansas City was a log cabin, which stood on the site of the building in which the Western Journal of Commerce is issued. This cabin was erected in 1839, by Thomas A. Smart, as a trading house. The second build- ing was erected by Anthony Richers, a native of Germany, who was educated for the Catholic ministry. Father Bernard Donnelly, a native of Ireland and a Cath- olic, is believed to have been the first clergyman who officiated in public worship ; he preached in a log building, now used as a school house, near Broadway, about half a mile back from the steamboat landing. The first physician was Dr. Benoist Troost, of Holland, formerly a surgeon under Napoleon. The first postmaster was William Chick, who for a time kept the office in the top of his hat. "One eyed Ellis" as he was familiarly called, appears to have been the first lawyer, who, it is stated, employed his leisure time in "picking up stray horses." Wm. B. Evans kept the first tavern, at the corner of Main and Levee-streets. The first newspapers were the "Kansas Ledger," first issued in 1852, and the "Western Journal cf Commerce," first issued in Aug., 1854, under the name of the "Kansas City En- terprise." A great portion of the early trade of the city was with the Indians, mountain and Mackinaw traders, boatmen, etc. Poneys, pelts, furs, etc., were received in exchange for powder, lead, tobacco, coffee, etc. The first and principal warehouses in town were erected in 1847. Col. E. C. McCarty, in company with Mr. Russell, started the first train from Kansas City to New Mexico; old Mr. McDowell took the charge of it, and was the first man that ever crossed the American Desert in a wagon. The following is extracted from the Annals of the City of Kansas, pub- lished in 1858: The New Mexico, or, as it is generally known, the Santa Fe trade, is said to have first began at Boonville, or Old Franklin, as early as the year 1824. Mr. Monroe, Philip Thompson, the Subletts of St. Louis and Jackson counties, Nat. Sernes, and others, were among the first men ever engaged in the trade. The idea of taking or sending goods to New Mexico, was first suggested to these gentlemen by the richness and thick settlements of this valley of the Rio Grande Del Norte. When returned to the states, they commenced mak- ing preparations to' forward goods to this valley. How to get their merchandise there, without being at an almost ruinous expense, was the most important subject of considera- tion. Finally, having resolved to go to make the experiment at all hazards, they started, taking out their freight as best they could, some in one horse wagons, some in carts, some on pack-mules, and, on dit, with packs on their backs. They were successful a better trade was found than they anticipated more goods were sent out, with better carriage fa- cilities, and in a few years large fortunes were realized. In 1845, Messrs. Bent and St. Wain landed the first cargo of goods at Kansas City, that was ever shipped from this point to New Mexico in wagons that went out in a train. This train consisted of eighteen wagons, with five yoke of cattle to the wagon, and about 5,000 Ibs. of freight to each team. A great excitement was extant. Mexican commerce had given new life to border trade. Gradually the business with New Mexico became concentrated at points on the river. From 1832 to 1848, or 1850, our neighbor city, Independence, had the whole command of 426 MISSOURI. this great trade. Her merchants amassed fortunes, and the business 1 generated by this prosperous intercourse, built up Independence into cue of the most tlou wiring and beauti- ful towns iii the west. During these years, from 1832 to 1S43, some few mountain and Mexican goods were landed among the cottonwoods below our city. Messrs. Beat & St. Vrain are amors; the oldest freighters engaged in transporting goods over the Great Plains; in 1834, thev landed a small shipment of mountain goods at Mr. Francois Choutenu's log warehouse, near the island just east of the city. In 1846 our citizens then had what they thought to be quite a large and respectable trade with New Mexico, and the next year, 1847, it is conceded that Kansas City fairly divided this great trade with the city of Independence; and since 18;">0, Kansas City has had the exclusive benefit of all the shipping, commission, storage, repairing and outfitting business of the mountains and New Mexico, save, perhaps, a few wagons that have been loaded and outfitted at Independence by her owu merchants. A Train crossing Hie Great Plains. From the most reliable information we can obtain, it is estimated that there are at least three hundred merchants and freighters now engaged in the New Mexico and mountain commerce. Properly, in. this connection, may be inserted a few remarks concerning our mountain traffic and importations. Some of our leading merchants for years have had trading houses established in tha mountains, where they constantly keep a large stock of goods to trade with the Indians, who pay for these goods with their annuity money, with buffalo robes, with furs, pelts, hides, and Indian ornamental fabrics. This trade done in the mountains, creates large importations of the above mountain products to our city. In 1857, the following importations were made: Robes, furs, etc., $267,253 52; Mexican wool, $129,600; goat skins, $25,000; dressed buckskins, $62,500; dry hides, $37,500; peltries, $36,000. Like the transport of Mexican goods, these imports come to us as the cargoes of the great mountain trains or caravans. Train is only another word for caravan. These caravans, then, consist of from forty to eighty large canvas covered wagons, with from fifty to sixty-five hundred pounds of freight to each wagon also, six yoke of oxen or five span of mules for every wagon two men as drivers for every team, besides supercargoes, wagon masters, etc., who gener- ally ride on horseback. When under way, these wagons are about one hundred feet apart, and ns each wagou and team occupies a space of about ninety or one hundred feet, a train of eighty wagons would stretch out over the prairie for a distance of a trifle over three miles. In 1857, 9,884 wagons left Kansas City for New Mexico. Now, if tho^e wagons were all in one train, they would make a caravan 223 miles long, with 98,840 mules and oxen, and freighting an amount of merchandise equal to 59,304,000 Ibs. A recent visitor at Kansas City gives some valuable items : Just below the mouth of the Kansas, and between it and the highlands on which Kansas MISSOURI. 4-27 C : \T is located, is an extent of level bottom land, embracing some fifty acres, and covered sparsely with trees. This b the camping ground of the immense caravans of Russell, hl-.jors & Co. We found several acres covered with the enormous wagons that are used in the prairie trade. Here is also an immense stable for the horses, mules, etc., and a place of deposit for feed for the thousands of oxen. It was to me something of a sight to see such a number of land ships. They will carry from seven to ten thousand pounds, and are drawn by from three to six yokes of oxen. They are covered when loaded, so as to protect the goods from the rains. 1 examined them, and found them made many hundreds of miles to the east. I saw a large number which came from Michigan. They are strong, heavily ironed and massive wagons. The commercial business of the town is mostly transacted on the levee. The solid blocks of warehouses receive the goods from the steamers, and from them they are loaded into the immense wagons and taken to their final destination. Here is the landing and the starting place for the vast trade to Santa Fe and New Mexico. One of the singular features in the streets is the large number of Mexicans, or as every body here calls them, "greasers," with their trains of mules, loading for their far distant homes. Kansas City has been the starting place for this trade for thirty years. Many of the citizens have be- come wealthy by it, and the evidences of prosperity and thrift around us are traceable to the effects of this Santa Fe trade. I do not see any cause that can disturb this in the fu- ture. Heavy loads of goods and merchandise of all kinds are brought from St. Louis and the east, on steamers, to this, the last and the nearest point to the Territory of New Mex- ico, and as this business must increase with the settlement of the country to the west and south-west, the permanence of the prosperity of this city seems to be fixed. These " grensers " arc a hard looking set of men. They are a sort of compromise be- tween the Indian and negro, with now and then a touch of Spanish blood. They are gen- erally short and small, quite dark, very black straight hair, geneially hanging about their faces. Their national hat is a low crowned slouch looking concern. They wear girdles, with knives, etc., convenient for use. Altogether they look like an ignorant, sensual, treacherous, thieving and blood-thirsty set, which is very much the character they bear among the people of this city. Kansas City, being in Missouri, has a few slaves, but they are fast disappearing. Some forty were shipped off in one gang this spring for the southern market. The original set- tlers were Southerners and slaveholders, but the northern element has been pouring in upon them till a large proportion of the business men are now from the free states. There is now no talk, about slavery, all are engaged in a more sensible business building up the city. ST. JOSEPH, the most populous and flourishing place in north-western Missouri, is situated on the E. bank of the Missouri, 565 miles N.W. from St. Louis, 391 from Jefferson City, and 206, by the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad, from the Mississippi. The city is for the most part on broken and uneven ground, called the Black Snake Hills, and is surrounded by a rich and fertile country. There are 7 churches, 2 female seminaries, 2 daily and 3 weekly papers published here. There are several steam sawing and grist mills and other extensive manufacturing establishments. The Catholic Female Seminary of this place stands on a commanding elevation back from the city, and is seen from down the river at a great distance. The completion of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad makes this, at present, the most western point in the United States reached by the great chain of railroads, and has opened a new era in its prosperity. It is now the central point for all west- ern travel. The Great Salt Lake mail, the Pike's Peak express, and the Pony express, taking dispatches to San Francisco in eight days, all start from this place. Population about 10,000. The city of St. Joseph was founded by Joseph Robidoux, a .native of St. Louis, and of French descent. Mr. Robidoux first visited this place in 1803, as an Indian trader, being in connection at that time with the American Fur Company. He was forty days in sailing up the Missouri from St. Louis, and camped out every night on shore with his boatmen, about a dozen in number. The Indians lived on the city grounds till they removed to the opposite bank 428 MISSOURI. of the river, about 25 miles above. He erected his first trading house Li 1831, about two miles below the city. In 1833, he built a second tradiii;; house on the spot now occupied by the City Hotel : and in 1838 pre-empted the site of the city. South view of St. Joseph. The view shows the appearance of the city, as it is approached from the south by the Missouri River. The Court House, in the central part, stands on an elevation of about 200 feet ; the Railroad from Hanni- bal enters the city on the rich bottom lands on the right. The sand bank seen ill the view on the left, is within the limits of Kansas. The town was laid off in 1843. The first resident clergyman in the place was a Catholic, Rev. Thomas Scanlan, and the first public worship was held in the house of Mr. Julius C. Robidoux, the first postmaster in the place. Mr. 11. 's first office was west of the Black Snake Creek, and he was the first regular merchant in St. Joseph. Rev. T. S. Reeve, the next minister, first preached in a log house on the corner of Third and Francis-streets. The first settlers were principally from Indiana, Kentucky and Ohio. Among the first settlers were Col. Samuel Hall, Capt. Wm. H. Hanson and William Ewing, from Kentucky ; Capt. John Whitehead and James Cargill, from Virginia; Frederick W. Smith, from St. Louis; and Michael Rogers, from Ireland. Daniel Gr. Keedy, from Maryland, was the first physician. Jona- than M. Bassett, James B. Grardenhire, and Willard P. Hall, were among the first lawyers. Mrs. Stone, a widow lady, opened the first school. The first tavern was kept by David St. Clair, from Indiana, who came here in 1843. Jeremiah Lewis, from Kentucky, was the first ferryman. Weston, a flourishing commercial town, on the Missouri River, about 4 miles above Fort Leavenworth, is the river port for Platte county, about 225 miles W. N.W., by the road, from Jefferson City, and upward of 500 by water from St. Louis. Its frontier position renders it a favorable position for emigrants starting for California and other points west. It was first settled in 1838. The great emigration westward of late years, has much increased the activity of trade at this point. Two newspapers are published here. Population about 3,500. MISSOURI. 499 Independence, the county seat of Jackson, is important as one of the start- ing points in the trade to New Mexico, and other places westward. It is about five miles back from the Missouri River, and 165 miles W. by N. from Jefferson City. It was laid out in 1828, and is surrounded by a most beau- tiful and fertile country, abundantly supplied with pure water. Population about 3,500. Hannibal. HANNIBAL, Marion county, on the western bank of the Mississippi, is 15 miles below Quincy, 111., and 153 above St. Louis. It is a flourishing town and the shipping port of. a large quantity of hemp, tobacco, pork, etc., raised in the vicinity. Stone coal, and excellent limestone for building pur- poses, are abundant. Its importance, however, is principally derived from its being the eastern terminus of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad, a line extending directly across the northern part of the state, and which, at this point, connects this great western railroad with the system of railroads eastward of the Mississippi. Hannibal was laid out in 1819, and incorpor- ated in 1839. It is one of the most thriving towns on the Mississippi, has numerous manufacturing establishments, an increasing commerce, and about 8,000 people. Col. John Shaw, in his personal narrative, relates some incidents that occurred in this section of Missouri in the war of 1812. He acted as a scout on this frontier. AVe here quote from him : The Upper Mississippi Indians, of all tribes, commenced depredations on the frontiers of Missouri and Illinois, in 1811, and early in 1812. Several persons wore killed in different quarters. About thirty miles above the mouth of Salt River, and fully a hundred above the mouth of the Missouri, was Gilbert's Lick, on the western bank of the Mississippi, a place of noted resort for animals and cattle to lick the brackish water ; and where a man named Samuel Gilbert, from Virginia, had settled two or three years prior to the spring of 1812. Jn that region, and particularly below him, were a number of other settlers. About the latter part of May, 1812, a party of from twelve to eighteen Upper Mississippi Indians descended the river in canoes, and fell upon the scattered cabins of this upper set- tiement in the night, and killed a dozen or more people. This massacre in the Gilbert's Lick settlement, caused great consternation along the Missouri frontier, and the people, as a matter of precaution, commenced fort- ing. Some seven or eight forts or stockades were erected, to which a portion of the inhabitants resorted, while many others held themselves in readiness to flee there for safety, in case it might be thought necessary. I remember the nau*e of 430 MISSOURI. Stout's Fort, Wood's Fort, a small stockade at what is now Clarksville, Fort HOT- ard, and a fort at Howell's settlement the latter nearest to Col. Daniel Boone; b'?t the people bordering immediately on the Missouri Kiver, being less exposed to dan- ger, did not so early resort to the erection of stockades. About this time, probably a little after, while I was engaged with eighteen or twenty men in building a temporary stockade where Clarksville now stands, on the western bank of the Mississippi, a party of Indians came and killed the entire family of one O Neil, about three miles above Clarksville, while O'Neil himself was employed with his neighbors in erecting the stockade. In company with O'Neil and others, I hastened to the scene of murder, and found all killed, scalped, and horribly mangled. One of the children, about a year and a half old, was found literally baked in a large pot metal bake kettle or Dutch oven, with a cover on ; and as there were no marks of the knife or tomahawk on the body, the child must have been put in alive to suffer this horrible death; the oil or fat in the bottom of the kettle was nearly two inches deep. I went to St. Louis, in company with Tra Cottle, to see Gov. Clark, and ascertain whether war had been actually declared. This must have been sometime in June, but the news of the declaration of war against Great Britain had not yet reached there. On our return, I was strongly urged by the people to act as a spy or scout on the frontier, as 1 was possessed of great bodily activity, and it was well known that I had seen much woods experience. I consented to act in this capacity on the frontiers of St. Charles county, never thinking or troubling myself about any pecuniary recompense, and was only anxious to render the distressed people a use- ful service. 1 immediately entered alone upon this duty, sometimes mounted, and sometimes on foot, and carefully watching the river above the settlements, to dis- cover whether any Indians had landed, and sometimes to follow their trails, learn their destination, and report to the settlements. Upon my advice, several of the weaker stockades were abandoned, for twenty or thirty miles around, and concentrated at a place near the mouth of Cuivre or Cop- per River, at or near the present village of Monroe; and there a large number of us, perhaps some sixty or seventy persons, were some two or three weeks employed in the erection of a fort, We named it in honor of the patriotic governor, Benja- min Howard, and between twenty and thirty families were soon safely lodged in Fort Howard. The fort was an oblong square, north and south, and embraced about half an acre, wit!) block houses at all the corners except the south-east one. As the war had now fairly commenced, an act of congress authorized the rais- ing of six companies of Hangers ; three to be raised on the Missouri side of the Mississippi, and the other three on the Illinois side. The Missouri companies were commanded by Daniel M. Boone, Nathan Boone, and David Musick. Ihe commis- sion of Nathan Boone was dated in June, 1812, to serve a year, as were doubtless the others. .The Indians, supplied by their British employers with new rifles, seemed bent on exterminating the Americans always, however, excepting the French and Spaniards, who, from their Indian intermarriages, were regarded as friends and connections. Their constant attacks and murders, led to offensive measures. Of the famous Sink Hole battle, fought on the 24th of May, 1814, near Fort How- ard, I shall be able to give a full account, as I was present and participated in it Capt. Peter Craig commanded at Fort Howard; he resided with his father-in-law, Andrew Ramsey, at Cape Girardeau, and did not exceed thirty years of age. Drakeford Gray was first lieutenant Wilson Able, the second, and Edward Spears, third lieutenant. About noon, five of the men went out of the fort to Byrne's deserted house on the bluff, about a quarter of a mile below the fort, to bring in a grindstone. la consequence of back water from the Mississippi, they went in a canoe ; and on their return were fired on by a party supposed to be fifty Indians, who were under shelter of some brush that grew along at the foot of the bluff, near Byrne's house, and about fifteen rods distant from the canoe at the time. Three of the whites were killed, and one mortally wounded; and as the back water, where the canoe was, was only about knee deep, the Indians ran out and tomahawked their vic- tims. MISSOURI. 431 The people in the fort ran out ns quick as possible, and fired across the b:ick water at the Indians, but as they were nearly a quarter of a mile oft', it was of course without effect. Capt. Craig with a party of some twenty-five men hastened in pursuit of the Indians, and ran across a point of the back water, a few inches deep; while another party, of whom 1 was one, of about twenty -five, ran to the right of the water, with a view of intercepting the Indiana, who seemed to he mak- ing toward the bluff or high plain west and north-west of the fort. Tho party with which 1 had started, and Capt. Craig's soon united. Immediately on the bluff was the cultivated field and deserted residence of Ben jamin Allen, the field about forty rods across, beyond which was pretty thick tim- ber. Here the Indians made a stand, and here the fight commenced. Both parties treed, and as the firing waxed warm, the Indians slowly retired as the whites ad- vanced. After this fighting had been going on perhaps some ten minutes, the whites were reinforced by Capt. David Musick, of Cape au Gris, with about twenty men. Capt, Musick had been on a scout toward the head of Cuivre Kiver, and had re- turned, though unknown at Fort Howard, to the Crossing of Cuivre Kiver, about a mile from the fort, and about a mile and a half from the scene of conflict; and had stopped with his men to graze their horses, when hearing the firing, they instantly remounted and dashed toward the place of battle, and dismounting in the edge of the timber on the bluff, and hitching their horses, they rushed through a part of the Indian line, and shortly after the enemy fled, a part bearing to the right of the Sink Hole toward Bob's Creek, but the most of them taking refuge in the Sink Hole, which was close by where the main fighting had taken place. About the time the Indians were retreating. Capt. Craig exposed himself about four feet be- yond his tree, and was shot through the body, and fell dead; James Putney was killed before Capt. Craig, and perhaps one or two others. Before the Indians re- tired to the Sink Hole, the fighting had become animated, the loading was done quick, and shots rapidly exchanged, and when one of our party was killed or wounded, it was announced aloud. This Sink Hole was about sixty feet in length, and about twelve to fifteen feet wide, and ten or twelve feet deep. Near the bottom on the south-east side, was ti shelving rock, under which perhaps some fifty or sixty persons might have shel- tered themselves. At the north-east end of the Sink Hole, the descent was quite gradual, the other end much more abrupt, and the south-east side was nearly per- pendicular, and the other side about like the steep roof of a house. On the south- east side, the Indians, as a further protection in case the whites should rush up, dug under the shelving rock with their knives. On the sides and in the bottom of the Sink Hole were some bushes, which also served as something of a screen for the Indians. Capt. Musick and his men took post on the north-east side of the Sink Hole, and the others occupied other positions surrounding the enemy. As the trees ap- proached close to the Sink Hole, these served in part to protect our party. Fin-d- ing we could not get a good opportunity to dislodge the enemy, ns they were best protected, those of our men who had families at the fort, gradually went there, not knowing but a large body of Indians might seize the favorable occasion to attack the fort, while the men were mostly away, engaged in the exciting contest. The Indians in the Sink Hole had a drum, made of a skin stretched over a sec- tion of hollow tree, on which they beat quite constantly; and some Indian would shake a rattle, called she-shit-qui. probably a dried bladder with pebbles within; and even, for a moment, would venture to thrust his head in view, with his hand elevated shaking his rattle, and calling out peash! peash! which was understood to be a sort of defiance, or as Black Hawk, who was one of the party, says in his ac- count of that affair, a kind of bravado to come and fight them in the Sink Hole. When the Indians would creep up and shoot over the rim of the Sink Hole, they would instantly disappear, and while they sometimes fired effectual shots, they in turn became occasionally the victims of our rifles. From about one to four o'clock in the afternoon, the firing was inconstant, our men generally reserving their fire till an Indian would show his head, and all of us were studying how he could more effectually attack and dislodge the enemy. At length Lieut. Spears suggested that a pair of cart wheels, axle and tongue. MISSOURI. which were seen at Allen's place, near at hand, be obtained, and a moving battery constructed. This idea was entertained favorably, and an hour or more consumed in its construction. Some oak floor puncheons, from seven to eight feet in length, were made fast to the axle in an upright position, and port-holes made through them. Finally, the battery was ready for trial, and was sufficiently large to pro- tect some half a dozen or more men. It was moved forward slowly, and seemed to attract the particular attention of the Indians, who had evidently heard the knocking and pounding connected with its manufacture, and who now frequently popped up their heads to make momentary discoveries ; and it was at length moved up io within less than ten paces of the brink of the Sink Hole, on the south-east side. The upright plank did not reach the ground within some eighteen inches, our men calculating to shoot beneath the lower end of the plank at the Indians; but the Latter, from their position, had the decided advantage of this neglected aperture, for the Indians snooting beneath the battery at an upward angle, would get shots at the whites before the latter could see them. The Indians also watched the port-holes, and directed some of their shots to them. Lieut. Spears was shot dead, through the forehead, and his death was much lamented, as he had proved himself the most active and intrepid officer engaged. John Patterson was wounded in the thigh, and some others wounded behind the battery. Having failed in the object for which it was designed, the battery was abandoned after sundown. Our hope all along had been, that the Indians would emerge from their covert, and attempt to retreat to where we supposed their canoes were left, some three or four miles distant, in which case we were firmly determined to rush upon them, and endeavor to cut them totally off. The men generally evinced the greatest bravery during the whole engagement. Night now coming on, and having heard the reports of half a dozen or so of guns in the direction of the fort, by a few In- dians who rushed out from the woods skirting Bob's Creek, not more than forty rods from the north end of the fort. This movement on the part of the few Indians who had escaped when the others took refuge in the Sink Hole, was evidently de- signed to divert the attention of the whites, and alarm them for the safety of the fort, and thus effectually relieve the Indians in the Sink Hole. This was the result, for Capt Musick and men retired to the fort, carrying the dead and wounded, and made every preparation to repel a night attack. As the Mississippi was quite high, with much back water over the low grounds, the approach of the enemy was thus facilitated, and it was feared a large Indian force was at hand. The people were always more apprehensive of danger at a time when the river was swollen, than when at its ordinary stage. The men in the fort were mostly up all night, ready for resistance, if necessary. There was no physician at the fort, and much effort was made to set some broken bones. There was a well in the fort, and provisions and ammunition sufficient to sustain a pretty formidable attack. The women were greatly alarmed, pressing their infants to their bosoms, fearing they might not be permitted to behold another morning's light; but the night passed away without seeing or hearing an Indian. The next morning a party went to the Sink Hole, and found the Indians gone, who had carried off all their dead and wounded, except five dead bodies left on the north-west bank of the Sink Hole ; and by the signs of blood within the Sink Hole, it was judged that well nigh thirty of the enemy must have been killed and wounded. Lieut. Drakeford Gray's report of the affair, made eight of our party killed, one missing, and five wounded making a total of fourteen ; I had thought the number was nearer twenty. Our dead were buried near the fort, when Capt Musick and his men went over to Cape au Gris, where they belonged, and of which garrison Capt. Musick had the command. We that day sent out scouts, while I proceeded to St. Charles to procure medical and surgical assistance, and sent for- ward Drs. Hubbard and Wilson. St. Charles, the capital of St. Charles county, is on the northern bank of the Missouri River, 18 miles from its mouth, and about 20 by land from St. Louis. The first settlement of St. Charles dates back to the year 1764, MISSOURI. 433 when it was settled by the French, and for a long time was regarded as the rival of St. Louis. The opening of the North Missouri Railroad has added much to its prosperity. It is handsomely situated on the first elevation on the river from its mouth. The rocky bluffs in the vicinity present beautiful views of both the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. Quarries of limestone, sandstone, and stone coal have been opened near the town. The village is upward of a mile long, and has several streets parallel with the river. It contains the usual county buildings, several steam mills, etc., a Catholic con- vent, a female academy, and St. Charles College, founded in 1837, under the patronage of the Methodists. Population about 3,000. Boonville, a flourishing town, the county seat of Cooper county, is on the S. bank of Missouri River, 48 miles N.W. from Jefferson City. It has im- portant commercial advantages, which have drawn to it the principal trade of S.W. Missouri, of a portion of Arkansas, and the Cherokee Nation. It has a healthy situation, and is surrounded by a rich farming region. Grapes are cultivated here to some extent. Iron, lead, stone coal, marble and lime- stone are abundant in the vicinity. The New Mexico or Santa Fe trade is said to have first begun at Boonville, or Old Franklin, as early as 1824. Population about 4,000. Ironton, the county seat of Iron county, is on the line of the Iron Moun- tain Railroad, 87 miles from St. Louis. The county abounds in mineral wealth, iron, marble, copper, and lead, and the town, containing some few hundred inhabitants, is becoming quite a summer resort from its excellent medicinal springs. Potosl is one of the oldest towns in the state, having been settled in 1763, by Messrs. Renault and Moses. It is near the line of the Iron Mountain Railroad, 54 miles from St. Louis. It is the county seat of Washington, and has been long noted as the seat of the richest of lead mines. The town has about 700 inhabitants. The famous Mine a Burton, at this place, was the most important and principal discovery made in Missouri under Spanish authority. It took its> name from M. Burton, a Frenchman, who, while hunting in this quarter, found the ore lying on the surface of the ground. This was about the year- 1780. Hon. Thos. H. Benton gives this account of Mr. Burton from per- sonal knowledge, and published it in the St. Louis Enquirer of October 16, 1818: He is a Frenchman from the north of France. In the forepart of the last cen-i tury, he served in the low countries under the orders of Marshal Saxe. He was at the siege of Bergen-op zoom, and assisted in the assault of that place when it was assailed by a division of Marshal Saxe's army, under the command of Count Lowendahl. He has also seen service upon the continent He was at the building of Fort Chartres, on the American bottom, afterward went to Fort Du Quesne (now Pittsburg), and was present at Braddock's defeat From the life of a soldier, Bur- ton passed to that of a hunter, and in that character, about half a century agoy while pursuing a bear to the west of the Mississippi, he discovered the rich lead mines which have borne his name ever since. His present age can not be ascer- tained. He was certainly an old soldier at Fort Chartres, when some of the peo- ple of the present day were little children at that place. The most moderate corn^ putation will make him one hundred and six. He now lives in the family of Mr. Michcaux, at the Little Rock ferry, three miles above Ste. Genevieve, and walk* t that village almost every Sunday to attend Mass. He is what we call a square built man, of five feet eight inches high, full chest and forehead; his sense of seeing and hearing soui< vhat impaired, but free from disease, and apparently able to hold out against time for many years to come. 28 434 MISSOURI. In 1797, Moses Austin, a native of Connecticut who afterward became identified with the history of Texas, explored the country about Mine" a Bur- ton, and obtained a grant of a league square from the Spanish government, in consideration of erecting a reverberating furnace and other works, for the purpose of prosecuting the mining business at these mines. "Associated with Mr. Austin, was his son Stephen F. Austin, who, in 1798, com- menced operations, erected a suitable furnace for smelting the " ashes of lead," and sunk the first regular shaft for raising ore. These improvements revived the mining business, and drew to the country many American families, who settled iu the neighborhood of the mines. The next year a shot-tower was built on the pin- nacle of the cliff near Herculaneuin, under the superintendence of Mr. Elias Bates, and patent shot were made. A manufactory of sheet lead was completed the same year, and the Spanish arsenals at New Orleans and Havana, received a considerable part of their supplies for the Spanish navy from these mines." Hermann, capital of Gasconade county, is on the line of the Pacific Rail- road, 81 miles from St. Louis. It was first settled in 1837, by the German Settlement Society, of Philadelphia. The place and vicinity are noted for the culture of the grape, being second only to Cincinnati. A good year's growth of the grape will yield over 100,000 gallons of wine, worth from $1 25 to $2 per gallon. There are in the state a large number of towns of from 1,000 to 3,000 in- habitants, beside those described. These are among them: Canton, in Lewis county, 175 miles N.E. from Jefferson City. Carondolet, on the Iron Moun- tain Railroad, 6 miles from St. Louis. This is an old town, settled half a century since, and named from one of its early settlers, Baron De Carondo- let. Chillicothe, the county seat of Livingston, is 129 miles west of Hanni- bal, on the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad. Columbia, the county seat of Boon, 33 miles N.N.W. from Jefferson City, and is the seat of the State University and of two colleges. Fulton, county seat of Callaway, is 24 miles N.E. from Jefferson City. Here is located Westminster College and the State Lunatic and Deaf and Dumb Asylums. Glasgow is in Howard county, on the left bank of the Missouri, 60 miles N.W. of Jefferson City. La Grange is on the Mississippi, in Lewis county, 104 N.N.E. of Jefferson City. Louisiana is on the left bank of the Mississippi, 82 miles N.E. of Jefferson City. Palmyra, the county seat of Marion, on the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad, 14 miles from Hannibal, has two colleges and two academies, and is considered the most beautiful town of northern Missouri. St. Genevieve, the capital of St. Genevieve county, is situated on the W. bank of the Mis- sissippi, 72 miles below St. Louis, and 117 S.E. from Jefferson City. St. Genevieve exports large quantities of copper, lead, limestone, marble, and white sand; the latter article is of superior quality, being used in the glass works of Boston and Pittsburg. It is noted as the oldest town in Missouri, having been settled by a few French families in 1751. Tipton is. in Moniteau county, 38 miles from Jefferson City. Washington is in Franklin county, OP the line of the Pacific Railroad, 54 miles from St. Louis. Huntsville, county seat of Randolph, is on the North Missouri Railroad, 160 miles N.W. from St. Louis: near it is Mount Pleasant College. Mound City, or Hudson, is at the junction of the North Missouri and Hannibal and St. Joseph Rail- roads, 168 miles from St. Louis. Mexico, the county seat of Audrian, is on the North Missouri Railroad, 50 miles N.E. from Jefferson City. MISSOURI. 435 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC. Gen. William Clark was born in Virginia in Aug., 1770, and in 1784 removed, with his father's family, to the Falls of the Ohio, now the site of Louisville, where his brother, the distinguished Gen. George Rogers Clark, had a short time previ- ously established a fort. In 1793, he was appointed by Washington lieutenant of riflemen. " In 1803 he was tendered by Mr. Jefferson the appointment of captain of engineers, to assume joint command with Captain Merriwether Lewis, of the North-western Expedition to the Pacific Ocean. This was accepted, and the party left St. Louis in March, 1804, for the vast and then unexplored regions be- tween the Mississippi River and the ocean, under the joint command of himself and Lewis, they being, by a special regulation to that effect, equal in rank On this perilous expedition, he was the principal military director, while Lewis, assisted by himself, was the scientific manager. Gen. Clark then kept and wrote the Jour- nal, which has since been published, and assisted Lewis in all his celestial obser- vations, when they were together. On their return to St. Louis from the Pacific Ocean, in the fall of 1806, Capt. Lewis was appointed governor of the territory then designated as Upper Louisiana, and the place of lieutenant-colonel of infantry was offered to Gen. (then Capt.) Clark: but he preferred the place of Indian agent at St. Louis, having become, by his intercourse with the various tribes on the Mis- souri, well acquainted with the proper course to be pursued toward them ; and he remained in this office until he was made brigadier general for the Territory of Upper Louisiana, under the laws of congress. During the late war with Great Britain he was applied to by the war department to revise the plan of the campaign then going on under Gen. Hull, and was offered the appointment of brigadier gen- eral in the United States army, and the command then held by Hull; these, how- ever, he refused, being convinced that the operations of this officer were too far advanced to be successfully remedied. In 1813, President Madison appointed him, in place of GOV. Howard, resigned, governor of the territory and superintendent of Indian affairs, after he had twice refused to be nominated to the first office. He held both these offices until Missouri was admitted into the Union as a state in 1820. Upon her admission, he was nominated against his consent as a candidate for governor, but was not elected, being in Virginia at the time of election. He then remained in private life until 1822, when he was appointed by President Mon- roe, superintendent of I'ndian affairs. As commissioner and superintendent of In- dian affairs for a long series of years, he made treaties with almost every tribe of Indians, and exhibited to all of them the feelings of a philanthropist, as well as a becoming zeal for the rights of the government of his country. He was applied to, to accept the office of United States senator from Missouri, but declined, be- lieving that he could more efficiently serve his country, and the cause of humanity, in the Indian department than in the national halls of legislation. He was the youngest of six brothers, the four oldest of whom were distinguished officers in the Revolutionary war. One of them fell in the struggle ; another was killed by the Indians upon the Wabash, and his brother, Gen. George Rogers Clark, is well known to the people of the west. The early history of Kentucky is identified with his, and as long as that noble and proud state maintains her lofty eminence, she will cherish his name. Gen. Clark WAS a resident of St. Louis for more than thirty years, and died there in September, 1838, aged 68 years." Blake's Biog. Diet. Gov. Benjamin Howard was born in Virginia. From 1807 to 1810, he was a representative in Congress from Kentucky, when he was appointed governor of Missouri Territory. In 1813, he resigned the latter office being appointed brigadier general in the U. S. service. This was the period of the war with Great Britain, and he was in command of the 8th military department, then embracing all the territory from the interior of Indiana to the Mexican frontier. He died after two days illness, at St. Louis, in Sept, 1814. He was a brave and patriotic man, and his loss was sincerely felt. Several forts in the west have been named from him. Hon. Lewis F. Linn was born near Louisville, Ky., in 1795, and was educated to medicine, which he practiced after his removal to Missouri. From 1833 to 1843, he was a senator in congress from Missouri, and died Oct 3d, in the last named year 436 MISSOURI. at his residence in St. Genevieve. His congressional career was eminently distin- guished for ability, and for his identification with the interests of the Mississippi Valley. His virtues were eulogized by many of the best men in the country. Hon. Thomas Hart Benton "was born in Hillsborough, North Carolina, March 14, 1782, and educated at Chapel Hill College. He left that institution without re- ceiving a degree, and forthwith commenced the study of law in William and Mary College, Virginia, under Mr. St. George Tucker. In 1810, he entered the United States army, but soon resigned his commission of lieutenant-colonel, and in 1811 was at Nashville, Tenn., where he commenced the practice of the law. He soon afterward emigrated to St. Louis, Mo., where he connected himself with the press as the editor of a newspaper, the Missouri Argus. In 1820, he was elected a mem- ber of the United States senate, serving as chairman of many important com- mittees, and remained in that body till the session of 1851, at which time he failed of re-election. As Missouri was not admitted into the Union till August 10, 1821, more than a year of Mr. Benton's first term of service expired before he took his seat. He occupied himself during this interval before taking his seat in congress in acquiring a knowledge of the language and literature of Spain. Immediately after he appeared in the senate he took a prominent part in the deliberations of that body, and rapidly rose to eminence and distinction. Few public measures were discussed between the years 1821 and 1851 that he did not participate in largely, and the influence he wielded was always felt and confessed by the coun- try. He was one of the chief props and supporters of the administrations of Presidents Jackson and Van Buren. The people of Missouri long clung to him as their apostle and leader; and it required persevering effort to defeat him. But he had served them during the entire period of thirty years without interruption, and others, who aspired to honors he enjoyed, became impatient for an opportunity to supplant him. His defeat was the consequence. Col. Benton was distinguished for his learning, iron will, practical mind, and strong memory. As a public speaker he was not interesting or calculated to produce an effect on the passions of an audience, but his speeches were read with avidity, always producing a decided in- fluence. He was elected a representative in the thirty-third congress for the dis- trict of St. Louis, and on his retirement from public life devoted himself to the preparation of a valuable register of the debates in congress, upon which he labored until his death, which occurred in Washington on the 10th of April, 1858, of cancer in the stomach." Lanman's Diet, of Congress. EXPULSION OP THE MORMON'S FROM MISSOURI. [From Perkiijp' Annals of the West.] From the time of Rigdon's conversion, in October, 1830, the progress of Mor- monism was wonderfully rapid, he being a man of more than common capacity and cunning. Kirtland, Ohio, became the chief city for the time being, while large numbers went to Missouri in consequence of revelations to that effect. In July, 1833, the number of Mormons in Jackson county, Missouri, was over 1,200. Their increase having produced some anxiety among the neighboring settlers, a meeting was held in the month just named, from whence emanated resolutions for- bidding all Mormons thenceforth to settle in that county, and intimating that all who did not soon remove of their own will would be forced to do so. Among the resolutions was one requiring the Mormon newspaper to be stopped, but as this was not at once complied with the office of the paper was destroyed. Another large meeting of the citizens being held, the Mormons became alarmed and con- tracted to remove. Before this contract, however, could be complied with, violent proceedings were again resorted to; houses were destroyed, men whipped, and at length some of both parties were killed. The result was a removal of the Mor- mons across the Missouri into Clay county. These outrages being communicated to the Prophet at Kirtland, he took steps to bring about a great gathering of his disciples, with which, marshaled as an army, in May, 1834, he started for Missouri, which in due time he reached, but MISSOURI. 437 with no other result than the transfer of a certain portion of his followers as per- manent settlers to a regjon already too full of them. At first the citizens of (./lay county were friendly to the persecuted; but ere long trouble grew up, and the wanderers were once more forced to seek a new home, in order to prevent outrages. This home they found in Caldwell county, where, by permission of the neighbors and state legislature, they organized a county government, the country having been previously unsettled. Soon after this removal, numbers of Mormons nocking in, settlements were also formed in Davis and Carroll : the three towns of the new eeot being Far West in Caldwell; Adam-on-di-ah-mond, called Diahmond or Diah- man, in Davis; and Dewit, in Carroll. Thus far the Mormon writers and their enemies pretty well agree in their narratives of the Missouri troubles; but thence- forth all is contradiction and uncertainty. These contradictions we can not recon- cile, and we have not room to give both relations; referring our readers, therefore, to Hunt and Greene, we will, in a few words, state our own impressions of the causes of the quarrel and the catastrophe. The Mormons, or Latter-day Saints, held two views which they were fond of dwelling upon/and which were calculated to alarm and excite the people of the frontier. One was, that the west was to be their inheritance, and that the uncon- verted dwellers upon the lands about them were to be destroyed, and the saints to succeed to their property. The destruction spoken of was to be, as Smith taught, by the hand of God ; but those who were threatened naturally enough concluded that the Mormons might think themselves instruments in His hand to work the change they foretold and desired. They believed also, with or without reason, that the saints, .anticipating, like many other heirs, the income of their inheritance, helped themselves to what they needed of food and clothing; or, as the world called it, were arrant thieves. The other offensive view was, the descent of the Indians from the Hebrews, taught by the Book of Mormon, and their ultimate restoration to their share in the inheritance of the faithful : from this view, the neighbors were easily led to infer a union of the saints and savages to desolate the frontier. Looking with suspicion upon the new sect, and believing them to be already rogues and thieves, the in- habitants of Carroll and Davis counties were of course opposed to their possession of the chief political influence, such as they already possessed in Caldwell, and from the fear that they would acquire more, arose the first open quarrel This took place in August, 1838, at an election in Davis county, where their right of suffrage was disputed. The affray which ensued being exaggerated, and some severe cuts and bruises being converted into mortal wounds by the voice of rumor, a number of the Mormons of Caldwell county went to Diahmond, and after learning the facts, by force or persuasion induced a magistrate of Davis, known to be a leading oppo- nent of theirs, to sign a promise not to molest them any more by word or deed. For this Joe Smith and Lyman Wight were arrested and held to trial. By this time the prejudices and fears of both parties were fully aroused; each anticipated violence from the other, and to prevent it each proceeded to violence. The Mor- mons of Caldwell, legally organized, turned out to preserve the peace; and the Anti-Mormons of Davis, Carroll and Livingston, acting upon the sacred principle of self-defense, armed and embodied themselves for the same commendable pur- pose. Unhappily, in this case, as in many similar ones, the preservation of peace was ill confided to men moved by mingled fear and hatred ; and instead of it, the opposing forces produced plundering*, burnings, and bloodshed, which did not terminate until Governor Hoggs, on the 27th of October, authorized < en. Clark, with the full military power of the state, to exterminate or drive from Missouri, if he thought necessary, the unhappy followers of Joe Smith. Against the army, 3,500 strong, thus brought to annihilate them, and which was evidently not a rnob, the 1,400 Mormons made no resistance; 300 fled, and the remainder surrendered. The leaders were examined and held to trial, bail being refused; while the mass of the unhappy people were stripped of their property to pay the expenses of the war, and driven, men, women, and children, in mid winter, from the state, naked and starving. Multitudes of them were forced to encamp without tents, and with scarce any clothes or food, on the bank of the Mississippi, which was too full of ice for them to cross. The people of Illinois, however, received the fugitives when 438 MISSOURI. they reached the eastern shore, with open arms, and the saints entered upon a new and yet more surprising series of adventures than those they had already passed through. The Mormons found their way from Missouri into the neighbor- ing state through the course of the year 1839, and missionaries were sent abroad to paint their sufferings, arid ask relief for those who were persecuted because of their religious views; although their religions views appear to have had little or nothing to do with the opposition experienced by them in Missouri. PILOT KNOB. THE IRON MINES OF MISSOURI. No country on the globe, of the same extent, equals Missouri in the quantity of iron. "The metalliferous region of Missouri covers an area of at least 20*000 square miles, or about 12,800,000 acres, and the same formation ex- tends southward into Arkansas and westward into the .territories. In this great region is a uniformity of mineral character as unusal as the great extent of the deposits. The whole country is composed of lower magnesian limestone, and bears lead throughout its entire extent, and in numerous localities, iron mines of great value exist. The ore is massive, generally found on or near the surface, and of remark- able purity. Among the most re- markable of these iron formations is the celebrated Iron Mountain, in St. Francis county, near Potosi, and about 80 miles south from St. Louis by the Iron Mountain Railroad, and 30 west of the Mississippi River. On account of the difficulty of transportation, and the prevailing impres- sion that the ore from the Iron Mountain could not be smelted, it remained un- productive till the formation of the Iron Mountain Company, in 1845. It now furnishes the chief material for the St. Louis rolling-mill, and is the principal sup port of the iron manufactures of Missouri. The mountain is the south-western termination of a ridge of porphyritic rocks. It is of a conical shape, flattened at the top, and slopes toward the west It is made up exclusively of specular oxide of iron, the most abundant and valuable ore in the state, in its purest form, containing no perceptible quantity of other mineral substances except a little less than one per cent, of silica, which, accord- ing to Dr. Ditton, who made an analysis of the ore four or five years ago, rather improves than injures its quality. The quantity of the ore is inexhaustible, and, for most purposes, its quality requires no improvement. The area of the Iron Mountain covers an extent of some five hundred acres. It rises to the bight of two hundred and sixty feet above the general level of the surrounding country. Its whole top is a solid mass of iron, and one can see noth- ing but iron lumps as far as the eye can rench. The ore of this mountain is known as the specular oxide, and usually yields some sixty-eight or seventy per cent, of pure iron, and so free from injurious substances as to present no obstacle to working it directly into blooms. The metal is so excellent that much of it is now used by the manufacturers on the Ohio River, for mixing with the ore found there. There are in operation at the mountain three blast furnaces, producing from seven thousand to seven thousand five hundred tuns of metal annually. Be- sides this immense deposit of ore above the surface, a shaft sunk at the base of the mountain gives fifteen feet of clay and ore, thirty feet of white sandstone, thirty-three feet of blue porphyry, and fifty three feet of pure iron ore. This bed of mineral would be immensely valuable if there was none above tho surface. MISSOURI. 439 "About six miles south and a little east of the Iron Mountain are deposits of ora no less rich, and scarcely less extensive. These are chiefly in Pilot Knob and Shepherd Mountain. The Pilot Knob ore is different from all other ore of the neighborhood, both in appearance and in, composition. It is of finer grain, and more compact, and breaks with a gray, steel-like fracture. It contains from ten to twenty per cent, of silica, which renders it more readily fusible, and better fitted for some purposes. The Knob is a very striking feature in the landscape. Kising almost perpendicularly five hundred and eighty-one feet on a base of three hun- dred and sixty acres, and almost wholly isolated, it has long served as a land-mark to the pioneers of Missouri. Hence its name. A very large portion of the moun- tain is pure iron. It is somewhat difficult to estimate the quantity of the ore, on account of its being interstratified with slate. The rocks about the base of the mountain are dark gray, silicious and slaty. At a hight of three hundred feet they show more traces of iron. At a hight of four hundred and forty-one feet there is a stratum of pure ore, from nineteen to twenty-four feet thick. Beneath and above this are beds of ore mixed with the silicious rocks. It is estimated that the amount of ore above the surface is not less than 13,872,773 tuns, and probably much more. Its igneous origin is not certain, but probable ; and hence it is proba- ble that it extends downward to an indefinite extent, according to the well-founded theory of geologists. Shepherd Mountain, which is a little more than a mile south-west of Pilot Knob, rises to a hight of 660 feet on a base of 800 acres. It is penetrated with veins or dykes of ore, running in different directions, but mostly vertical, and of indefinite extent. From the jaine, which is worked at about 500 feet from the top of Pilot Knob, the ore is carried in cars on a railway running down the side of the mountain, on a fearfully steep inclined plane. Upon this plane we climbed laboriously to the mine and thenlascended to the flagstaff, firmly fastened among the rocks, on the topmost peak, which are so well worn by the feet of strangers that they present the appearance of pure wrought iron, which is hardly remarkable in view of the fact that horse-shoes and knives have been repeatedly made from the crude ore, merely by hammering. When we state, on the authority of Prof. Swallow, that there is enough ore, of the very best quality, within a few miles of Pilot Knob and Iron Mountain, above the surface of the valleys, not reckoning the vast deposits that lie beneath, to fur- nish one million tuns per annum of manufactured iron for two hundred years, some estimate may be formed of the vast advantages that must ac_crue to Missouri from the possession of so rich a store of that indispensable metal, which, greater in its power even than gold, has always stood pre-eminent in its influence on the prosperity of nations, seeming, as it were, to communicate to those who own and manufacture it some of its own hardy and sterling qualities." The mines of Elba, Sweden, and Norway, all together do not equal these peaks. The substantial wealth of England and Belgium is drawn from their mines, but neither of them possess the mineral wealth, the iron, lead, coal, tin and copper of this single state. Gen. James Wilkinson was born in Maryland about the year 1757, was educated to medicine, entered the army of the Revolution, and was breveted brigadier gen- eral. After the war he settled in Kentucky in commercial business. Again en- tering the army, he had command of the United States forces in the Mississippi valley. In the war of 1812, he served on the northern frontier. He died in 1825, aged 68. He published "Memoirs of My Own Times," 3 vols. 8vo., 1816. Major Amos Stoddard, the first American governor of Upper Louisiana, was born in Woodbury, Conn., and was a soldier of the Revolution. He was subse- quently clerk of the supreme court in Boston, also practiced law at Hallowell, Maine. In 1799, he entered the army as captain of artillery. About the year 1804, he was appointed first military commandant and civil governor of Upper Louisiana, his headquarters being St. Louis. He died of lockjaw in 1813, from a wound received at the siege of Fort Meigs. He was a man of talent, and was the author of Sketches of Louisiana, a valuable work KANSAS KANSAS, prior to 1854, was included within the limits of the " Indian Territory," lying west of Missouri, and the adjoining states. It was thus called from the circumstance of its being the territory on which several tribes of Indians, mainly from east of the Mississippi, were located un- der the direction of the general gov- ernment. The principal tribes thus placed within the present limits of Kansas, were the Delawares, who were estimated at upward of 800 in number ; the Kickapoos, at about 900, the Shawnees, at about 1,300: the Kansas, one of the original tribes of this region, were located on the Kansas River, farther west- ward, and were supposed to number about 2,000. The first white man who traversed the soil of Kansas seems to have been M. Dutisne, a French officer, sent in 1719, by Bienville, the gov- ernor of Louisiana, to explore the territory west of the Mississippi. He passed up Osage River, a southern tributary of the Missouri, and visited several Indian villages within the present limits of Kansas. In 1804, Lewis and Clark, on their celebrated Rocky Mountain expedi- tion, passed up the Missouri River, on the eastern boundary of Kansas. The oldest fort on this river is Fort Leavenworth, which was established in 1827. This, with the missionary establishments among the Indians, were the first places occupied by the whites. In 1832, the small pox reduced the Pawnee Indians, in Kansas, one half. Thus, enfeebled, they entered into a treaty with the United States, disposing of their Kansas possessions, and agreed to reside wholly north of the Nebraska River, and west of Missouri. Here, under the patronage of government, they erected dwellings, shops, etc., and commenced agricultural improvements. Their young men, however, formed war parties, and com- mitted depredations upon the tribes around them. They were severely .441 ARMS or KANSAS. MOTTO. Ad Attra per Aiptra.'Io Prosperity through Adversity. 442 KANSAS. chastised by the Comanches and Osages; and the Utahs, from their mountain fastnesses, avenged themselves of former cruelties. To crown the misery of the Pawnees, the Blackfeet and Sioux Indians, in the north and west, rav- aged their fields, burned their houses, and drove away their horses and Battle. Disheartened, they migrated south, and settled near the Ottoes and Oinahas, where the remnant now exist. "The whole Indian population of Kansas," says Mr. Greene, in his" His- tory of the Kansas region, 1856, "is probably 25, 000. The immigrant tribes are the Kick#poos, Wyandots, Sacs and Foxes, Munsees, Weasand Plankeshaws, Peorias and Kaskaskias, Qttawas, Pottowatamies, Chippewas, Pelawares, and Shawnees; embracing in all a population of about 5, 000, and including within their reservations, prior to the treaties of 1853 and '54, almost ten millions of acres. A million of acres were ceded by the Delawares, Weas and Kick- apoos, in May, 1853, to be sold at auction. The Shawnee Reserve embraces thirty miles west of the Missouri line and fifteen south of Kansas River. The Wyandots have thirty sections in the angle formed by the confluence of the Kansas and Missouri. The Delawares retain a tract ten miles wide and forty long, extending east from the mouth of Grasshopper Creek. The Pot- tawatomies own thirty miles square, cut through the middle by Kansas River. The Kickapoos have a small reserve at the head of the Grasshopper. North of the river and below Pottawatomie, the Kansas still hold a tract twenty- two miles long and one wide." In 1820, on the admission of Missouri into the Union, the congress of the United States passed the "Missouri Compromise" act, prohibiting slavery in all territory of the United States north of 36 30'. Kansas being north of this line was included within the limits of the prohibition. In 1854, on the organization of the Territories of Kansas and Nebraska, congress, after an exciting discussion, passed the ''Kansas and Nebraska 'bill," which in effect rendered nugatory the Compromise Act of 1820. This at once opened up a contest between slave-holders and free-soil men for possession. The richest part of Missouri, that most densely filled with a slave population, lay adjacent to the soil of Kansas. Were Kansas to become free territory the people feared that there would be no security in western Missouri for slavery. Thoy determined, therefore, to introduce and fasten the institution in Kansas. The passage of the Kansas Nebraska bill had agitated the whole country, and widely spread the information of the fine climate and rich soil of Kan- sas: this excited the desire of multitudes of the citizens of the free states to emigrate thither, introduce their institutions, open farms on its virgin soil, and found new homes for s themselves and their children in the beautiful prairie land. The conflict which ensued between the pro-slavery and the free-soil parties was inevitable. Soon as the tidings of the passage of the Kansas-Nebraska bill reached western Missouri, some thousands of the people crossed over the borders and selected farms, and for a while they had the control of the political move- ments in the territory, ere the van of the free state emigrants could reach it. Many of the latter came hither in bodies, neighbors joining together for that purpose, and in Massachusetts, an Emigrant Aid Society was created, for (it was alleged) pecuniary gain, by the means of organized capital in forming centers for settlers.* To counteract this, "Blue Lodges" were *The Emigrant Aid Society WHS originally formed in Massachusetts, May 4, 1854, just before the passage of the Kansas-Nebraska bill. In the succeeding February a new char- KANSAS. 443 established in western Missouri to assist pro-slavery emigration. Soon all emigrants came armed, for events showed that only by a struggle and blood- shed the question of ascendency would be settled. A. H. lleeder, the first governor of the territory, and appointed by Presi- dent Pierce, arrived at Fort Leavenworth, Oct. 6, 1854, and soon after visited Lawrence, where he was met by the citizens, and was welcomed in an address by Gen. Pomeroy. The governor stated in his reply that, as far as possible, he should maintain law and order, and preserve the freedom of speech. The first election of a delegate to congress took place Nov. 29, 1854. The ter- ritory was divided into nineteen districts. Gov. Reeder, who resided at Fort Leavenworth, appointed election judges, and gave instructions to have the vote properly taken. It appears, however, that an organized body of Missourians. in some instances, took forcible possession of the polls, and elected Gen. Whitfield as a delegate. In the election for the territorial leg- islature, on March 30, 1855, large organized bodies from Missouri controlled the polls, appointing their own judges, where those previously appointed would not conform to their wishes. In consequence of this, every district 'with one exception) returned pro-slavery men to the prospective legislature. The legislature met on the 2d of July, at Pawnee, according to the pro- clamation of the governor, and was organized by the election of D. S. String- fellow as speaker. In the course of the first week they passed an act re- moving the seat of government from Pawnee to the Shawnee Manual Labor School, to take effect from and after its passage: they also passed" an act adopting the laws generally of Missouri as the laws of Kansas. On the 6th of July, the governor vetoed the act removing the seat of government. It was, however, passed over his veto by a two thirds vote, and the two legis- lative houses met at the Shawnee Mission on the 16th of July. On July 25, in a joint session, they elected the various county officers for a term of iix years. Various other extraordinary and unusual acts were passed.* A resolution was carried declaring the incompetency of the governor, and a memorial was dispatched to Washington praying for his removal. Gov. lleeder and Judge Elmer, of the supreme court, having been removed by the general government, Wilson Shannon, an ex-governor of Ohio, was appointed governor, and Judge Moore, of Alabama, succeeded Judge Elmer. On Sept. 5, 1855, a free state convention met at Big Springs, which resolved to repudiate all the acts passed by the legislature held at the Shawnee Mission. On the ter was obtained, in which the objects of the society were declared to be " For the purposes of directing emigration westward, and aiding in providing accommodations for the emi- grants after arriving at their places of destination. The total capital was about $100,000. The plan was to give fixed centers for emigrants, with mills, schools, and churches, and thus to benefit the stockholders by the opportunities which the application of associated capital would give in the rapid rise of the real estate around these centers. Emigrants updcr it provided their own oxpense.s; but by going in companies had the advantages of traveling at reduced rates. The great bulk of emigration was not, however, from distant New England, but from the hardy population of the north-west, familiar with pioneer life and inured to its hardships. * "Among their labors were an act to fix the seat of government at Lecompton ; acts mak- ing it a cnpital offense to assist slaves in escaping either into the territory or out of it, and felony, punishable with imprisonment at hard labor from two to five years, to conceal or aid escaping slaves, to circulate anti-slavery publications, or to deny the right to hold slaves In. tin; territory ; an act giving the right to vote to all persons who had paid a poll tax of one dollar, whether residents or not; an act requiring all voters, officers, and attorneys, to take an oath to support the fugitive slave law and the acts of this legislature ; and an act giving the selection of jurors to the sheriff. They also adopted the Missouri laws in a heap." 444 KANSAS. 19th of September, a convention assembled at Topeka, in which it was re- solved to take measures to form a state constitution. On the 9th of Octo- ber, the free state men held their election, allowing no nonresident to vote : 2,400 votes were cast, nearly all of which were for Gov. Reeder; as delegate to congress. They also elected delegates to assemble at Topeka, on the fourth Tuesday of the same month, to form a state constitution. This con- vention met, and chose Col. James Lane its president: a constitution was formed in which slavery was prohibited. Immediately after the adjourn- ment of this convention, the pro-slavery party called a "Law and Order con- vention," over which Gov. Shannon and Judges Lecompte and Elmer pre- sided, in which the Topeka convention was denounced as a treasonable assemblage. In Nov., one Coleman, in a quarrel about a land claim, killed a Mr. Dow, a free state settler, at Hickory Point, about 12 miles from Lawrence. Cole- man then proceeded to Lecompton, to Gov. Shannon, and swore a complaint against Branson, at whose house Dow had lodged, that Branson had threat- ened his (Coleman's) life. Branson was thereupon arrested by Sheriff Jones, but was rescued by his neighbors, and took refuge in Lawrence. These transactions caused great excitement. The people of Lawrence armed as an attack was threatened. Gov. Shannon issued his proclamation, stat- ing an open rebellion had commenced, and calling for assistance to carry out the laws : this was circulated through the border counties of Missouri, vol- unteer companies were raised, and nearly 1,800 men crossed over from Mis- souri, having with them seven pieces of cannon, obtained from the U. S. arsenal near Liberty, Mo. This formidable array encamped at Wakerusa, over against Lawrence, which was now threatened with destruction. Gov. Shan- non, Chief Justice Lecompte and David R. Atchison accompanied the troops. For more than a week the invading force continued encamped, and a deadly conflict seemed imminent. Fortunately for the peace of the country, a direct conflict was avoided by an amicable arrangement. The invading army re- tired from Lawrence, Dec. 9, 1855. In Dec., 1855, the Topeka constitution was adopted by a vote of the peo- ple, and state officers were appointed. On Jan. 4, 1856, in a message, Gov. Shannon indorsed the pro-slavery legislature and code, and represented tha formation of the Topeka constitution as equivalent to an act of rebellion This was followed by a proclamation, on Feb. 4th, directed against the free state men, and on the strength of it, indictments for treason were found against Charles Robinson, Geo. W. Brown, ex-Gov. Reeder, Gen. Lane, Geo. W. Deitzler, and others, connected with the formation of the free state gov- ernment. Robinson, Brown, Deitzler, and many others, were arrested and imprisoned at Lecompton during the entire summer, guarded by the United States' dragoons. In March, 1856, the house of representatives, at Washington, having un- der consideration the conflicting claims of Gov. Reeder and Gov. Whitfield to represent Kansas in congress, appointed a commission to investigate the fact. This committee consisted of Howard, of Michigan, Sherman, of Ohio, and Oliver, of Missouri, who, being directed to proceed to Kansas, arrived at Lawrence on the 17th of April. While in Kansas this "congressional committee of investigation" collected a large mass of testimony which went to prove that frauds had been perpetrated by the pro-slavery party at the ballot box, also that many outrages had been committed, in which the free state settlers were principally the sufferers. KANSAS. 445 Early in April, 1856, two or three hundred pro-slavery men, from Georgia and the Carolinas, arrived in the territory, under the command of Maj. Bu- fprd, of Georgia. On the 24th of April, Sheriff Jones entered Lawrence and arrested several free state men. On the 8th of May, Gov. Robinson, while descending the Missouri on his way east, was seized and detained at Lexington, Mo., and afterward sent back to Kansas on the charge of treason. Gov. Reeder and Gen. Lane, being indicted on the same charge, succeeded in making their escape out of the territory. On the 21st of May, Sheriff Jones, with a posse of some four or five hundred men, proceeded to Lawrence, ostensibly for the purpose of executing the process of the courts. Several pieces of artillery and about 200 of Sharp's rifles were taken, two printing presses, with a large quantity of material, were destroyed, and the Free State Hptel and Dr. Robinson's mansion were burnt as nuisances. On the 26th, a skirmish occurred at Ossawatomie, in which three free state and five pro-slavery men were killed. The free state men now began to make a con- certed and armed resistance to the pro-slavery bands which were spread over the country. Parties of free state emigrants coming up the Missouri, were turned back, and forbid entering the territory, so that their only ingress into Kansas was overland through Iowa. For months civil war prevailed, and the settlers were distressed by robberies, murders, house burnings, the de- struction of crops, and other atrocities. The free state legislature, according to the time fixed, met at Topeka, July 4, 1856. As they were about organizing for business. Col. Sumner (who was accompanied by a body of U. S. dragoons), went into the hall, and claim- ing to act under the authority of the president of the United States', dispersed the assemblage. On the 5th of Aug., a body of men from Lawrence marched against a post, near Ossawatomie, occupied by a company of marauders, said to be Georgians. After a conflict of three hours, the post, a large block- house, was carried with a loss of one or two killed, and several wounded on both sides. Other conflicts took place in other places, attended with loss of life. Gov. Shannon was removed early in August, and acting Gov. Wood- son, on the 25th of that month, issued a proclamation declaring the territory in a state of rebellion. Gov. Geary, the successor of Gov. Shannon, arrived in the territory about the 1st of Sept., and by proclamation ordered all the volunteer militia to be discharged, and all bodies of men acting without the authority of govern- ment, instantly to disband or quit the territory. After this the outrages and skirmishes rapidly diminished, and order was gradually restored. The next season, the pro-slavery party, at a convention held at Lecomp- ton, formed a state constitution, familiarly known as the Lecompton Constitu- tion, and in the session of 1857-8, applied to congress for admission into the Union. Great opposition was made to it on the ground that the convention which formed it was fraudulently elected, and did not represent the will of the people, as it was favorable to slavery. After a long and memorable struggle, the instrument was referred to the people of Kansas, on the 4th of Aug., 1858. They rejected it by a vote of more than six to one 11,300 against to 1,788 votes in favor. To this period the party lines in Kansas had been divided between the pro-slavery and the free state men. Soon after, these distinctions gave place to the Democratic and Republican parties. The next territorial legislature met in Jan., 1859, and the Republicans, having the majority, took measures by which a convention met at Wyandot, in the succeeding July, and formed 446 KANSAS a state constitution, known as the Wyandot Constitution, which prohibited slavery. This constitution, on reference to the people, was adopted by a large majority. The lower house of congress, in the succeeding session, 1859-60, passed the bill, but the senate failed to act upon it. so it was lost. Kansas, therefore, remained in a territorial condition until January 30th, 1861, when it was admitted as a free state of the Union. The severe contest in regard to the institutions of Kansas was thus closed, only, how- ever, to give place to a more terrible struggle, involving the whole nation. Kansas is bounded N. by Nebraska, E. by Missouri, S. by the Indian Ter- ritory, and W. by Colorado Territory. It extends between the parallels of 37 30' and 40 N. Lat., and 94 30' and 102 W. Long. South view of Fort Leavenworth. The view is taken from a point near the residence of the Chaplain. The block -house, whicn appears near the central part, is the oldest building standing in Kansas. It is pierced for musketry and cannon ; the lower part is constructed of brick, the upper of logs, etc. The barrack buildings appear beyond ; the Quartermaster's building is seen on the right. The eastern part of Kansas is one of the most beautiful and fertile sections of country found in the United States. It consists, for the most part, of rolling prairies, having a deep, rich and fertile soil. The smooth and grace- ful hills, covered with dense vegetation, extend westward from the Missouri about 200 miles, having, in many places, the appearance of a vast sea of grass and flowers. The timber is principally in the vicinity of the rivers and streams, but a remarkable provision exists in the abundance of limestone found on the crest of all the elevations, just" cropping out from the surface, hardly interfering with vegetation. This is admirably adapted for buildings and fences. Numerous coal beds are said to abound. The Kansas or Kaw is the only stream of importance passing into the in- terior. The climate is healthy, the air being pure and dry. The winters are usually mild and open, with little snow. Kansas possesses very superior ad- vantages for the raising of cattle. Almost all kinds of grain and fruits can be produced in great abundance. In March, 1855, the population was esti- mated, in round numbers, at 8,000; a year later it was estimated at 60,000 ; in 1860, it was 107,110. FORT LEAVENWORTH, formerly the most important military post in the United States, is situated on the west side of the Missouri River, 31 milea KANSAS. 447 above the mouth of Kansas River, and 4 miles below Weston, Mo. This is the oldest fort on the Missouri, having been established in 1827 : it re- ceived its name from Col. Leavenworth, an officer of distinction in the Niagara campaign. It is the great frontier depot for other military posts on the Santa Fe, Utah and Oregon routes, and the general rendezvous for troops proceeding to the western forts. The fort stands on an elevation of about 150 feet, and about 150 yards back from the steamboat landing. Several thousand acres of fine land in the vicinity are reserved for the use of the force at this point. South-eastern view of Leacenworth City. The view shows the ayipearance of the city as seen from the Missouri side of the river. The Market House and Theater building, surmounted by a flag, is shown on the left; and the Planters' House, the Steamboat and Steam Ferry Landings on the right. On some occasions, as many as 1,000 laborers and artisans have been em- ployed here in the government service at one time. The buildings consist of the barracks, magazines, the officers' houses, hospital, the quartermaster's building, and others. General Persifer F. Smith, the commander of the Utah expedition, died here on Sunday evening, May 16, 1858: his remains were taken east for burial. The government has a small chapel here, in which the Rev. Leander Ker, of Scotch descent, officiates as chaplain of the post. Mr. Ker likewise has the charge of a school of 30 or 40 children, the books, stationery, etc., being furnished by the government. During the difficulties with Utah, in 1858, the transportation establish- ment of the army, under Russell & Waddell, the contractors, between the fort and the city, was the great feature of this vicinity, with its acres of wagons, herds of oxen, and regiments of drivers and other employees. This firm had millions of dollars invested in the business, employed six thousand teamsters, and worked forty-five thousand oxen. LEAVENWORTH CITY, on the W. bank of Missouri River, the largest town and commercial metropolis of Kansas, is 3 miles below the fort, 37 N.E from Lawrence. 70 S. from St. Joseph, Mo., and by the Missouri River 495 448 KANSAS. from St. l.x>uis. Several daily and weekly newspapers are published here. Leavenworth city was founded in the autumn of 1854. Previous to this it was covered with a heavy growth of forest trees, the hunting ground for the officers of Fort Leavenworth, traversed by wolves, wildcats, wild turkeys, and deer. The first building was a frame shanty, erected in 1834, near which is an elm tree, under which the first number of the " Kansas Weekly Herald " was printed, in September, 1854. The first printer was General Lucius Eastin, of Kentucky. The first public house was the Leavenworth Hotel : the Planters' House was erected in 1856. Rev. Mr. Martin, O. S. Presbyterian, was among the first clergymen who preached in the place. Population about 15,000. Wyandot is situated on the west bank of the Missouri, at the mouth of Kansas River, 37 miles below Leavenworth City, and 35 miles east of Law- rence. It is a new, beautiful and flourishing place, regularly laid out on ground rising gracefully from the water. Being built on the curve of the river, it is in full view of Kansas City, in Missouri, from which by water it is about a mile distant, and two miles by land ; a steam ferry-boat plies be- tween the two places. It is a busy town, and the outlet between southern Kansas and the Missouri River. At Wyandot commences the great Pa- cific Railroad. Population about 3,000. Atchison, 46 miles above Leavenworth, on the Missouri River, is, next to Leavenworth, the largest town in Kansas, with a population estimated in 1865 at 8,000. Here daily start the overland stages for the Rocky Moun- tains. A railroad has been commenced, leading hence to connect with the South Pacific on the Republican Fork. When the grass starts up in the spring, the place is so thronged with the teams of overland emigrants one can scarcely cross the streets. LAWRENCE, the county seat of Douglas county, is beautifully situated on the right bank of Kansas River. 45 miles W. from Kansas City, Mo., and 12 from Lecompton. The Eldridge House, 100 by 117 feet, is at this time by far the finest building in Kansas. Mount Oread is> about half a mile S.W. of the Eldridge House. On this elevation it is in contemplation to build a college : the view from this location, embracing a space of from 50 to 70 miles in circumference, is exceedingly beautiful. Population about 5,000. Lawrence received its name from Amos A. Lawrence, of Boston, Mass. In July, 1854, a company of 24 persons, principally from New England, came up the Missouri River to Kansas City, and from thence traveling by land, located themselves on the site of Lawrence, the spot having been selected by Chas. H. Branscomb, agent of the Massachusetts Aid Society. In Sep- tember following, a second company of about 70 persons arrived. These two companies of pioneers held their first regular meeting Sept. 16, 1854, being called to order by Dr. Robinson. A. H. Mallory was chosen presi- dent, C. S. Pratt, secretary, and a committee of six to manage the affairs of the company, viz: J. Doy, J. F. Morgan, A. H. Mallory, J. N. Nace, G. L. Os- borne and L. P. Lfncoln. On Sept. 20, 1854, at a meeting of the "Law- rence Association," the following persons were chosen officers, viz: Dr. Chas. Robinson, president; Ferd. Fuller, vice president; Caleb S. Pratt, secretary; Levi Gates, jr., treasurer; Erastus D. Ladd, register; A. D. Searl, surveyor; John Mailley, Owen Taylor, John Bruce, jr., arbitrators; and Joel Grover, marshal. KANSAS. Very soon after their arrival, the settlers were visited by a body of 150 Missouri borderers, ordered to strike their tents, and leave the territory to return no more. But this the people declining, the borderers left, and com- menced the organization of "Blue Lodges," to foster pro-slavery emigration. ( Northern view of Lawrence. The view shosvs the appearance of Lawrence as seen from the opposite bank of Kansas River, having the eye slightly elevated. The Eldridge Hotel, on Massachusetts-street, is seen on the right. A log cabin, the first structure in Lawrenre, is shown near the bank. The passage down the bank to the ferry, with the Whitney and Waverly Houses above, appear on the left. Lawrence and Leavenworth were the first towns located in Kansas. Some time in the summer of 1854, Clark Stearns, of Missouri, squatted at this place and erected a log cabin, the first structure built here (still standing at the head of Massachusetts-street). It is stated that the Lawrence Company intended to have passed on to the Big Blue River, at Manhattan, some GO miles above. Having arrived near this spot, some of the company rode their horses to the summit of Mount Oread, to find a suitable place to en- camp during the night. Discovering Stearns' cabin, and being charmed with the appearance of the country, they determined to stop here, and accord- ingly encamped on the present site of the Eldridge Hotel. The first meeting for public worship was held in a building constructed of long poles united at the top, intertwined with sticks, twigs, hay, etc., and then sodded over. This was on the first Sunday after the arrival of the com- pnny. Erastus D. Ladd, of New England origin, read a sermon' on the occasion. The first school was kept by Edward P. Fitch, of Massachusetts. The first framed building was erected by l\ev. S. Y. Lum, of New Jersey, the first regular preacher and agent of the Home Missionary Society. The Free State Hotel (afterward burnt), the first in the place, was built by the 29 450 KANSAS. Emigrant Aid Society, and was kept by Col. Eldridge. The first newspaper, "The Herald of Freedom" was issued in the fall of 1854, by G. "W. Brown, from Pennsylvania. The first merchants' shops were opened by C. L. Pratt and Norman Allen, on Massachusetts -street. The first ferryman was Wm. N. Baldwin. Lawrence will ever be a memorable spot as having been the head-quarters of the free state settlers during the "Kansas War:" it was particularly ob- noxious to the contrary party, on account of the free soil sentiments of the inhabitants. On the llth of May, 1856, Marshal Donaldson, in order to arrest several obnoxious free state men, summoned a posse, took the Georgia emigrants, under Maj. Buford, under pay, together with several hundred others. Having proceeded to Lawrence, he announced his determination to make arrests. The citizens, in a public meeting, denied the charge of hav- ing resisted the authorities of the territory. On the morning of the 21st of May, a body of about 500 men came from the camp, near Lecompton, and halted on Mount Oread, in Lawrence, near the residence of Gov. Robinson. They were headed by the U. S. Marshal Donaldson, who claimed the assem- bled force as his posse, they having responded to his late proclamation. They formed in line facing the north-east, and planted two cannon in range with the Free State Hotel and other large buildings in Massachusetts-street. About noon, the marshal, with a posse of ten men, arrested Gr. W. Deitzler, Col. Jenkins, Judge Smith, and some others, taking them as prisoners to their camp. About 3 o'clock, P. M., Sheriff Jones, accompanied by about twenty-five armed horsemen, rode up to the door of the Free State Hotel and stopped. Gen.. Pomeroy, and several others, went out to meet him. The sheriff demanded that all the arms be given up to him, and said he would give them one hour for this purpose. Pomeroy then, after some consultation with the committee, delivered up several pieces of artillery. The U. S. Mar- shal Donaldson having dismissed his posse, they moved their two field pieces into Massachusetts-street, and were immediately summoned to the spot to act as the sheriff's posse. The sheriff then gave information that the Free State Hotel had been presented by the grand jury of Douglas county as a nuisance, together with the two newspapers, the Herald of Freedom and Free State, and that Judge Lecompte wished them removed. A lone star flag having for a motto "Southern Rights" was thereupon raised over these offices, the presses destroyed, and the type thrown into the river. An attempt was next made to batter down the hotel by cannon shot, but not succeeding, it was set on fire and reduced to ashes. "After this, several private houses were robbed, and money, clothing, and other articles were pillaged. During the night fol- lowing, the house of Gov. Robinson, on Mount Oread, having a valuable library, was set on fire and consumed. The total damage to property in Lawrence was estimated at $150,000. During the summer, until late in the fall, civil war raged in the territory, many murders and other atrocities being committed. On the 14th of Sept., an army of 2,500 Missourians, arranged in three regiments, with five pieces of artillery, appeared before Lawrence, with threats of destruction to the town. The people threw up breastworks, and made hasty preparations for defense, but they must have been overwhelmed in case of attack. This was averted by the interference of Gov. Geary, with a body of U. S. dragoons, who threw himself between the conflicting parties, and prevailed upon the Missourians to retire to their homes. KANSAS. 451 LECOMPTON is a village of about 600 inhabitants : it has a Methodist church and several land offices, and is some twelve miles westward of Law- rence, and 35 from Leavenworth. The capital was located here in August, 1855, by the territorial legislature. A fine capitol building has been com- menced, the foundations laid and part of the first story reared, but owing to the failure of obtaining the necessary appropriations, the building has been suspended. Northern view at Lecompton. The long building seen in the central part of the view is the Masoni.i Hall, in the upper story of which the noted Lecompton Constitution was formed. The lower story, and most of the oth :r buildings repre- sented, are used for land offices. The site of this place was taken up by Thomas Simmons and his son Wil- liam, in the fall of 1854; in the spring of 1855, it was purchased of them by a company, consisting of Judge Lecompte, of Maryland, Daniel Wood- son, secretary, from Virginia, C. B. Donaldson, from Illinois, John A. Haider- man, from Kentucky, private secretary of Gov. Reeder, Samuel J. Jones, sheriff, from Virginia, and Dr. Aristedes Rodrique, from Pennsylvania. The town was then laid out, on the grounds rising from the river, covered with forest trees, many of which still remain. The first structure erected here was Simmons' log cabin, still standing about one fourth of a mile back from the river; the next was a log cabin built on the river bank, under the direction of Sheriff Jones. The first framed house here was put up by Samuel J. Cramer, from Virginia. Rev. Mr. Prichard, of the Methodist Episcopal Church South, delivered the first sermon in this place, over a grocery store, while, it is said, a company were playing cards below. Dr. Rodrique was the first physician. The first house of entertainment was kept on the bank of the river by a Mrs. Sipes. Part of the building now fitted up as a hotel, by Maj. Barnes, was used as a place of confinement for the free state prisoners arrested after the battle of Hick- ory Point, in the fall of 1856, by the United States dragoons. One hundred and one of these were confined here nearly three months, guarded by two companies of militia, under Col. Titus, being occasionally relieved by the U. 452 KANSAS. S. troops. Of these prisoners, 33 were from states east of Ohio; (5 from Missouri ; and 77 from the free states of the north-west. Twenty of them were convicted, in Judge Lecompte's court, of manslaughter. They were subsequently removed to Tecumseh, and after a tedious confinement in prison liberated. The first legislative assembly, in accordance with the proclamation of Gov. Reeder, met at Pawnee, near Fort Riley, but having to camp out, they ad- journed to the Shawnee Mission. This act was vetoed by the governor, but the assembly passed it over his head. The next legislative assembly met in the Masonic Hall, in Lecompton, and it was in this building that the cele- brated Lecompton Constitution, the subject of so much political discussion, was formed. The council sat in the building later occupied by Gov. Denver, on the opposite side of the street. TOPEKA, for a time the free state capital of Kansas, is on the S. side of Kansas River, 25 miles westward from Lawrence, and 55 in a direct line from Leavenworth City. It contains two or three churches, the Constitu- tional Hall, etc., and about 1,000 inhabitants. A bridge was built, at an ex- pense of about $15,000, over the Kansas River, at this place, and finished in May, 1858. It was, however, soon after swept down by the great freshet of that year. "Topeka" is an Indian word, signifying " wild potato" or "potato bottojn," the place where they grow. This root, which is about as large as a man's thumb, is found along the bottom lands of Kansas River, and is used by the Indians as food. The foundation of Topeka was laid Dec. 4, 1854, by a num- ber of settlers, who came here from Lawrence. The company consisted of C. K. Halliday, from Pennsylvania; M. C. Dickey, New Hampshire; Enoch Chase, Jacob B. Chase and Geo. Davis, from Massachusetts; L. G. Cleve- land, from Iowa; Frye W. Giles, from Illinois; D. H. Home and S. A. Clark. Having formed themselves into the "Topeka Association," C. K. Halliday was chosen president. The first building raised here was a log cabin now standing near the ferry or bridge, 13 by 11 feet inside. The earth inside was covered by prairie 'grass or hay, when twenty-four persons lodged within, lying on the ground: while the twenty-fifth man stretched himself on a load of hay on the outside. The first building was burnt on the first evening of its occu- pancy. The company, during the winter of 1854-5, slept in their clothes, boots, etc. Their'food was principally mush, on which they were kept in a healthy condition. Rev. S. Y. Lum, a congregationalist minister, preached the first sermon in Topeka, in the log cabin. The second place of public worship was in a small building constructed of clapboards, now standing on the premises of Col. Halliday. The first school was under Miss Harlan, now Mrs. J. F. Cummings, in a "shake" building, a few yards from Col. Halli- day 's house. The first regular house of entertainment was kept by Mrs. A. W. Moore, near the first log cabin. In Nov., 1855, W. W. Ross, of Ohio, established the first newspaper here, called the " Kansas Tribune," some 30 numbers of which had been previously issued in Lawrence. On the 4th of July, 1856, the state assembly, under the Topeka constitu- tion, consisting of representatives from all parts of the territory, met at the Constitutional Hall, in Topeka. Free state men, to the number of some 1,000 or 1,500,. assembled here at the time, and were encamped about the KANSAS. 453 town. Some 600 or 800 were considered as regular militia volunteers, and were under the command of Col. C. K. Halliday. At this period, such was the state of the times, that most of the settlers went armed, even about their daily avocations. The U. S. force at this time, under the command of Colonel Sumner, consisted of some seven hundred dragoons and flying artillery, from Forts Leavenworth and Klley. In addition to this, it is stated that about 2,000 armed men, ostensibly gathered in various places to cele- brate the 4th of July, were ready to march and "wipe out" Topeka, should there be any resistance made to the United S;ates authorities. Northern view of the Bridge, etc., at Topeka. The view was taken a short time after the completion of the bridge, the first ever built over Kansas Iliver. Part of the village of Topeka is seen in the Uistauce ou the right. The log cabin near the bridge is th first building erected in the place. The state assembly met at 12 o'clock at noon, at the Constitutional Hall, the lower story of which was occupied by the house of representatives, the upper by the senate. Col. Sumner, with a body of about 200 dragoons and a company of artillery, now came into the place, and having planted two cannon at the head of the avenue, with lighted matches in hand, rode up to the hall, arranging his troops in a semi-circular line in front. At this time a company of free state volunteers were assembled, and were in the act of receiving a silk banner from a collection of young ladies, one of whom was then standing at the door of the Constitutional Hall, making the presenta- tion address. The dragoons having rather overridden the volunteers, the assemblage was broken up.* Col. Sumner, dismounting, entering the repre- sentative hall, accompanied by Marshal Donaldson. At this time, the speaker being temporarily absent, S. F. Tappan, the clerk, was calling the roll. Col. Sumner advanced, took possession of the speaker's chair, and stated that he was obliged to perform the most painful duty of his life, that he had rather spend the whole of it in opposing the enemies of his country, than to per- form that single act, which was, " by authority vested in him by the presi- *Col. S. afterward made an apology to the company assembled on the occasion. 454 KANSAS. dent of the United States, now to command the body here assembled, calling itself the legislature of Kansas, to disperse." Judge Schuyler, addressing the colonel, asked, "Are we to understand that we are to be driven out at the point of the bayonet?" "I give you to understand," replied Sumner, " that all the force under my command will be put under requisition to carry out my orders; I again command you to disperse." The house then dispersed. As Sumner was passing out, he was informed that the senate was in session in the chamber above. Just as he entered, the chair was taken by Thomas G. Thornton, president pro tern., with the view of calling the senate to order. Col. S. then informed them of what he had done below, and that he wished to know their intentions. Mr. Thornton replied that the senate not being organized, he could give no answer, but if he would wait until they were so, one would be given. Col. S. rejoined, that his object was to prevent an or- ganization. After some desultory conversation, the assemblage dispersed. Ossawatomie is on the Osage, at its confluence with Pottawatomie Creek, 42 miles S.E. from Lawrence, and 28 from the Missouri line. The most severe conflict in the Kansas War took place here, on the 31st of August, 1856. About 300 pro-slavery men, under Capt. Reid, of Missouri, marched with a field piece upon the town, their line extending, in battle order, from river to river, across the prairie westward of the place. The inhabitants mustered about 40 men in defense, under Capt. John Brown, who took to the timber, and fighting Indian fashion, from the shelter of the trees, kept their enemy on the open plain for some time at bay, until their ammunition failing, most of them effected their retreat across the river. Their women and children escaped to the woods on the south. Their village, consisting of about 30 houses, was plundered and then laid in ashes, being the second time it had been thus destroyed by the pro-slavery forces. "Old Brown," the free soil leader, sometimes called "Ossawatomie Brown," lost one of his sons on this occasion. Becoming fanatical on the subject of slavery, he after this engaged in running off slaves from Missouri to Canada, and finally be- came a historical character by a conviction for treason, and a termination of his career on the gallows, at Harpers Ferry. Grasshopper Falh is about 30 miles N.W. of Lawrence. It has several mills and the best water power north of Kansas River. Fort Riley is a mil- itary post at the junction of the two main branches of the Kansas, which, in high water, is navigable for small steamers to this point. Manhattan and Waultonsee are two thriving towns in that vicinity. The latter was colonized from New Haven, Conn.; and by the identical party to whom Sharp's rifles were subscribed at a meeting in a church. One of them was a deacon in the church, and among the donors were clergymen, professors of science, lady principals of female seminaries, and others of quiet callings and anti- pugnacious tendencies. St. Marys, on Kansas River, 51 miles below Fort Riley, is an important and flourishing Catholic missionary establishment among the Pottawatomies, and the mission buildings, the trading houses, with the Indian improvements, give it quite the appearance of a town. The Catholic Osage Mission, on the Neosho River, 45 miles from Fort Scott, is one of the largest missions and schools in Kansas. It was corn- KANSAS. 455 menced in 1847 ; Rev. John Schoenmaker was the first superior of this mis- sion. Sermons are preached in Osage and English. Attached to this mis- sion is a manual labor school for boys, under the direction of the fathers. There are ten missionary stations at as many Indian villages, within sixty miles, attended mostly from this mission. In 1853, the Quapaw school, by the direction of the U. S. government, was transferred to this mission. The Shawnee Mission, under the direction of the Methodist Episcopal Church South, is about 8 miles from the mouth of Kansas River, and 3 from Westport, Mo. It has very superior bnildings, and a manual labor school. The Friends' Shawnee Labor School is 3 miles W. from the Methodist mis- sion. It has been in operation more than fifty years, including the period before their arrival. The Baptist Shawnee Mission is 2 miles N.W. from the Methodist School. The Kickapoo Mission is on Missouri River, 4 miles above Fort Leavenworth; the Iowa and Sac Mission School is just south of the northern line of Kansas, about 26 miles N.W. of St. Joseph. It is said to have been established as early as 1837. Council Grove is a noted stopping place on the Santa Fe road, S. from Fort Riley, containing several trading houses and shops, and a missionary estab- lishment and school. Council City, a tract nine miles square, recently laid out on a branch of the Osage, is in a S.W. course from Lawrence. MISCELLANIES. The following narrative of a visit to the Kansas Indians, is from the work of P. J. De Smet, a Catho- lic missionary, who was sent by the bishop of St. Louis, in 1840, on an ex- ploring expedi- t i o n to the Rocky Moun- tains, to ascer- tain the spirit- u a 1 condition of the Indians, etc.: W e started from Westport on the 10th of May, and after having passed by the lands of the Shawpees and Delaware?, where we saw nothing remarkable but the college of the Methodists, built, it is easy to divine for what, where the soil is richest; we arrived after five days' march on the banks of the Kansas River, where we found those of our com- panions, who had traveled by water, with a part of our baggage. Two of the rela- tives of the grand chief had come twenty miles from that place to meet us, one of whom helped our horses to pass the river in safety, by swimming before them, and the other announced our arrival to the principal men of the tribe who waited for us on the opposite bank. Our baggage, wagons and men crossed in a pirogue, which, at a distance, looked like one of those gondolas that glide through th KANSAS VII.LAOK. Engraved from a view in De Smet's Sketches. 456 KANSAS streets of Venice. As soon as the Kansas understood that we were going to en- camp on the banks of the Soldier's River, which is only six miles from the village, they galloped rapidly away from our caravan, disappearing in a cloud of dust, so that we had scarcely pitched our tents when the great chief presented himself, with six of his bravest warriors, to bid us welcome. After having made rno sit down on a mat spread on the ground, he, with much solemnity, took from his pocket a portfolio containing the honorable titles that gave him a right to our friendship, and placed them in my hands. I read them, and having, with the tact of a man accustomed to the etiquette of savage life, furnished him with the means of smok- ing the calumet, he made us accept for our guard the two braves who had come to meet us. Both were armed like warriors, one carrying a lance and a buckler, and the other a bow and arrows, with a naked sword and a collar made of the claws of four bears which he had killed with his own hand. These two braves re- mained faithful at their post during the three days and three nights that w r e had to wait the coming up of the stragglers of the caravan. A small present, which wo made them at our departure, secured us their friendship. On the 19th we continued our journey to the number of seventy souls, fifty of whom were capable of managing the rifle a force more than sufficient to under- take with prudence the long march we had to make. Whilst the rest of our com- pany inclined to the west, Father Point, a young Englishman and mj'self turned to the left, to visit the nearest village of our hosts. At the first sight of their wig- wams, we were struck at the resemblance they bore to the large stacks of wheat which cover our fields in harvest time. There were of these in all no more than about twenty, grouped together without order, but each covering a space of about one hundred and twenty feet in circumference, and sufficient to shelter from thirty to forty persons. The entire village appe:ired to us to consist of from seven to eight hundred souls an approximation which is justified by the fact that the total population of the tribe is confined to two villages, together numbering 1,900 in- habitants. These cabins, however humble they may appear, are solidly built, and convenient. From the top of the wall, which is about six feet in night, rise in- clined poles, which terminate round an opening above, serving at once for chimney and window. The door of the edih'ce consists of an undressed hide on the most sheltered side, the hearth occupies the center and is in the midst of four upright posts destined to support the rotunda; the beds are ranged around the wall and the space between the beds and the hearth is occupied by the members of the family, sinne sianding, others sitting or lying on skins, or yellow colored mats. It would seem that this last named article is regarded as an extra piece of finery, for the lodge assigned to us had one of them. As for dress, manners, religion, modes of making war, etc., the Kansas are like t!ie savages of their neighborhood, with whom they have preserved peaceful and friendly relations from time immemorial. In stature, they are generally tall and well made. Their physiognomy is manlv, their language is guttural, and remarka- ble for the length and strong accentation of the final syllables. Their style of singing is monotonous, whence it may be inferred that the enchanting music heard on the rivers of Paraguay, never cheers the voyager on the otherwise beautiful streams of the country of the Kansas. The Kansas, like all the Indian tribes, never speak upon the subject of religion without becoming solemnity. The more they are observed, the more evident does it become that the religious sentiment is deeply implanted in their souls, and is, of all others, that .which is most frequently expressed by their words and actions. ThuH, foHnstance, they never take the calumet without first rendering some homage to the Great Spirit. In the midst of their most infuriate passions they address him certain prayers, and even in assassinating a defenseless child, or a woman, they invoke the Master of Life. To be enabled to take many a scalp from their enemies, or to rob them of many horses, becomes the object of their most fervid prayers, to which thoy sometimes add fasts, macerations and sacrifices. What did they not do last spring, to render the heavens propitious ? And for what? To ob- tain the power, in the absence of their warriors, to massacre all the women and children of the Pawnees ! And in effect they carried off the scalps of ninety vic- tims, and made prisoners of all whom they did not think proper to kill. In their KANSAS. 457 eyes, revenue, far from being a horrible vice, is the first of virtues, the distinctive mark of great souls, and a complete vindication of the most atrocious cruelty. If, would be time lost to attempt to persuade them that there can be neither merit, nor glory, in the murder of a disarmed and helpless foe. There is but one exception to this barbarous code ; it is when an enemy voluntarily seeks a refuge* in one of their villages. As long as he remains in it, his asylum is inviolable his life in more safe than it would be in his own wigwam. But wo to him if he attempt to fly scarcely has he taken a single step, before he restores to his hosts all the im- aginary rights which the spirit of vengeance had given them to his life ! However cruel they may be to their foes, the Kansas are no strangers to the tenderest sen- timents of piety, friendship and compassion. They are often inconsolable for the death of their relations, and leave nothing undone to give proof of their sorrow. Then only do they suffer their hair to grow long hair being a sign of long mourn- ing. The principal chief apologized for the length of his hair, informing us, of what we could have divined from the sadness of his countenance, that he had lost his son. I wish I could represent to you the respect, astonishment and compas- sion, expressed on the countenances of three others, when they visited our little chapel for the first time. When we showed them an "Ecce Homo" and a statue of our Lady of the seven Dolours, and the interpreter explained to them that that head crowned with thorns, and that countenance defiled with insults, were the true and real image of a God who had died for the love of us, and that the heart they saw pierced with seven swords, was the heart of his mother, we beheld an affecting illustration of the beautiful thought of Tertullian, that the soul of man is naturally Christian ! On such occasions, it is surely not difficult, after a short instruction on true faith and the love of God, to excite feelings of pity for their fellow creatures in the most ferocious bosoms. THE SHAWNEES IN KANSAS. Henry Harvey, late superintendent of the Friends Mission among the Shawnees, in Kansas, gives, in his work on the history of that tribe, an account of their con- dition in Kansas, at the time of the passege of the Kansas-Nebraska bill. Origin- ally the Shawnees. resided in the Ohio country: the tribe was one of the most pow- erful there, and has numbered among its chiefs, Tecumseh, Cornstalk, and other men of extraordinary talent and nobility of soul. Mr. Harvey says : "The Shawnees, in the year 1854, numbered about nine hundred souls, includ- ing the white men who have intermarried into the nation, and are thereby adopted as Indians. This number is perhaps not more than twenty. This tribe owns about one million six hundred thousand acres of land, or, about 1,700 acres each. Many of them have good dwelling-houses, well provided with useful and respectable furniture, which is kept in good order by the females, and they live in the same manner as the whites do, and live well too. They have smoke-houses, stables, corn-cribs, and other out buildings. They have a good sup- ply of horses, cattle, hogs, and some sheep. They have many farm wagons and work oxen some carriages and buggies, and are generally well supplied with farm- ing implements, and know how to use them. They raise abundance of corn and oats, and some wheat. Their houses are generally very neat; built of hewn logs, with shingled roofs, stone chimneys, and the inside work very well finished off, and mostly done by themselves, as there are a number of very good mechanics among the younger class. Their fencing is very good, and, taken altogether, their settle- ments make a very respectable appearance, and would lose no credit by a compari- son with those of their white neighbors in the state adjoining them, leaving out now and then, a farm where slaves do the labor, and thus carry on farming on a large scale. The Shawnees have a large and commodious meeting-house, where they hold a religious meeting on the first day of each week. They have, also a graveyard at- tached to the meeting-house lot. They hold religious meetings often at their own houses during the week, generally at night. They hold their camp-meetings and their other large meetings, in their meeting-house, as well as their public councils, and also their temperance meetings ; for they, in imitation of their white brethren, 458 KANSAS. and as a means of arresting the worst evil which ever overtook the Indians, organ- ized a society on this subject, and have their own lecturers, in which they arc assisted by some of the missionaries. The younger cLass of them ara most inter- ested in this work, which is doing much good among them. Many of them have united themselves to religious societies, and appear to be very zealous observers of the forms and ceremonies of religion, and notwithstanding many of them, like too many of their white brethren, appear to have the form of godliness but not the power, yet it is apparent, that there are those among them who are endeavoring to walk in the just man's path, which, to one who has been acquainted with them for a number of years, even when in their wild and savage state, affords great satisfac- tion. As regards the settlements of the Shawnees in their present situation, they are all located on about thirty miles of the east end of their tract; their settlements of course, reaching a little short of one third of the distance back from the Mis- souri state line. In passing along the California and Santa Fe roads, which run on the divide be- tween the streams of the Blue and Osage Rivers, and the Kansas River in cast- ing the eye on either side, a handsome view is presented on both hands, of good dwellings, handsome farms, bordering on the forest, and fine herds of cattle and horses grazing in the rich prairies, as we pass, and beautiful fields of grain sown, planted and cultivated by the Indians themselves; and should the weary traveler see proper to call, and spend a night with these people, and manifest that interest for them, which he will be very sure to do, in viewing them in their present con- dition, and comparing it with what it once was, he will be well cared for. The Shawnees generally sow a large amount of grain, and often spare a large surplus after supplying their own wants. There are now in the Shawnee nation four Missions, one under the care of the Methodist Church South, one under the care of the Northern Methodist Church, one under the care of the Baptist Church, and the other under,the care of the So- ciety of Friends. They are all conducted on the manual labor system ; about one hundred and forty children are generally in attendance at those schools. At the first named mission there are large and commodious buildings of brick, and other out-buildings, and five or six hundred acres under cultivation; at the other Metho- dist Mission, a farm of about one hundred acres is under cultivation, and comfort- able log buildings are erected. At the Baptist Mission are good comfortable build- ings, and, I suppose, near one hundred acres adjoining to, and at some distance from, the farm, where the school is kept ; and at the Friends' Mission are a large frame house and barn, and other out-buildings, and about two hundred acres under cultivation," CALIFORNIA, CALIFORNIA is said, by some writers, to signify in English, hot furnace, and to be derived from two Spanish words, caliente fornalla, or homo : but this is doubtful. If true, however, it is properly .applied, as the sun pours down into the valleys through a dry atmosphere with great power. Under the 5lexicans, California was in two divisions. Lower California was, as now, the peninsula. Upper or New California comprised all of Mexico north of that point and the Gila River, and east of the Rocky Mountains, containing nearly 400,000 square miles. The greater part of New Mexico, and of Utah, and all of the state of California, comprised the original Upper California. " California was discovered in 1548, by Cabiillo, a Spanish navigator. In 1758, Sir Francis Drake visited its northern coast, and named the coun- try New Albion. The original settlements in California were mission estab- lishments, founded by Catholic priests for the conversion of the natives. In 1769, the mission of San Diego was founded by Padre Junipero Serra. The mission establishments were made of adobe, or sun burnt bricks, and contained commodious habitations for the priests, store -houses, offices, me- chanic shops, granaries, horse and cattle pens, and apartments for the instruc- tion of Indian youth. Around and attached to each, were, varying in dif- ferent missions, from a few hundred to several thousand Indians, who gen- erally resided in conical-shaped huts in the vicinity, their place of dwelling being generally called the rancheria. Attached to each mission were a few soldiers, for protection against hostilities from the Indians. The missions extended their possessions from one extreme of the territory to that of the other, and bounded the limits of one mission by that of the next, and so on. Though they did not require so much land for agriculture, 459 ARMS OF CALIFORNIA. MOTTO Eureka I have found It. 460 CALIFORNIA. and the maintenance of their stock, they appropriated the whole ; always strongly opposing any individual who might wish to settle on any land be- tween them. All the missions were under the charge of the priests of the order of San Fran- cisco. Each mission was under one of the fathers, who had despotic authority. The general products of the missions were large cattle, sheep, horses, Indian corn, beans and peas. Those in the southern part of California, produced also the grape and olive in abundance. The most lucrative product was the large cattle, their hides and tallow affording an active commerce with foreign vessels, and being, in- deed, the main support of the inhabitants of the territory. From 1800 to 1830, the missions were in the hight of their prosperity. Then, each mission was a little principality, with its hundred thousand acres and its twenty thousand head of cattle. All the Indian population, except the " Gentiles " of the mountains, were the subjects of the padres, cultivating for them their broad lands, and reverencing them with devout faith. The wealth and power in possession of the missions, excited the jealousy of the Mexican authorities. In 1833,;the government commenced a series of decrees, which eventually ruined them. In 1845, the obliteration of the missions was com- pleted by their sale at auction, and otherwise. Aside from the missions, in California, the inhabitants were nearly all gathered in the presidios, or forts, and in the villages, called l Los Pueblos.' The presidios, or fortresses, were occupied by a few troops under the command of a military pre- fect or governor. The Padre President, or Bishop, was the supreme civil, military and religious ruler of the province. There were four presidios in California, each of which had under its protection several missions. They were respectively, San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco. Within four or five leagues of the presidios, were certain farms, called ranchios, which were assigned for the use of the garrisons, and as depositories of the cattle and grain which were furnished as taxes from the missions. Los Pueblos, or towns, grew up near the missions. Their first inhabitants con- sisted of retired soldiers and attaches of the army, many of whom married Indian women. Of the villages of this description, there were but three, viz : Los Ange- los, San Jose, and Branciforte. In later times, the American emigrants established one on the Bay of San Francisco, called Yerba Buena, i. e. good herb, which be- came the nucleus of the flourishing city of San Francisco. Another was estab- lished by Capt. Sutter, on the Sacramento, called New Helvetia. The larger pue- blos were under the government of an alcalde, or judge, in connection with other municipal officers. The policy of the Catholic priests, who held absolute sway in California, until 1833, was to discourage emigration. Hence, up to about the year 1840, the villages named comprised all in California, independent of those at the missions; and'at that time, the free whites and half-breed inhabitants in California numbered lesa than six thousand souls. The emigration from the United States first commenced in 1838; this had so increased from year to year, that, in 1846, Col. Fremont had but little difficulty in calling to his aid some five hundred fighting men. Some few resided in the towns, but a majority were upon the Sacramento, where they had immense droves of cattle and horses, and fine farms, in the working of which they were aided by the Indians. They were eminently an enterprising and courageous body of people, as none other at that time would brave the perils of an overland journey across the mountains. In the ensuing hostilities they rendered important services. At that period, the trade carried on at the different towns was quite extensive, and all kinds of dry goods, groceries and hardware, owing to the heavy duties, ranged about five hundred per cent, above the prices in the United States, Me- chanics and ordinary hands received from two to five dollars per day. The com- merce was quite extensive, fifteen or twenty vessels not unfrequently being seen in the various ports at the same time. Most of the merchant vessels were from the United States, which arrived in the spring, and engaged in the coasting trade until about the beginning of winter, when they departed with cargoes of hides, CALIFORNIA. 461. t tallow or furs, which had been collected during the previous year. Whale ships also touched at the ports for supplies and to trade, and vessels from various parts of Europe, the Sandwich Islands, the Russian settlements, asd China." From 1826 to 1846, the date of the conquest of California by the United States, there had been numerous civil revolutions in California; but Mexican authority was generally paramount. Of its conquest we give a brief account. In July, 1846, at the beginning of the Mexican war, an American naval force, under Commodore Sloat, took Monterey and San Francisco. Sloat then dispatched a party to the mission of St. John, who there found that the American flag had been raised by Fremont This officer, on his third exploring expedition, had arrived near Monterey in the preceding January, some months prior to the commencement of the war. Learning that Gen. De Castro, the military commandant at that place, intended to drive him from the country, he took a strong position in the mountains with 'his small party of 62 men, raised the American flag, and prepared for resist- ance. De Castro relinquished his design, but later prepared an expedition for So- noma, to expel all the American settlers from the country. Fremont, on learning 1;his, took Sonoma on the 15th of June by surprise, captured Gen. Vallejo and other officers, 9 cannon, 250 muskets, and a quantity of military stores. On the 4th of July, Fremont assembled the American settlers at Sonoma, and by his advice they raised the revolutionary flay, and prepared to fight for their independence. A few days later they learned, through the operations of Commodore Sloat, of the exist- ence of war, and the star spangled banner was substituted for the standard of revolt. Soon after, Fremont united his force of 160 men to the marines of Commodore Stockton, and they sailed to San Diego. From thence they marched up and took Los Angelos, the seat of government. Stockton established a civil government, and proclaimed himself governor. In September, Los Angelos being left with a small garrison, under Capt. Gillespie, was taken by a superior Mexican force led by Gens. Flores and Pico. In November, the army of Gen. Kearney, having conquered New Mexico, arrived in their overland march across the continent, on the southern borders of Califor- nia. On the 6th of December, an advance party of 12 dragoons and 30 volunteers had a battle with 160 mounted Mexicans near San Pasqual. The Americans were victorious. Gen. Kearney was twice wounded, Capts. Johnson and Moore, Lieut Hammond and most of the other officers, together with nineteen of the men, were either killed or wounded. On the 29th of December, Kearney took command of five hundred marines, with the land forces, and moved toward Angelos, to co-operate with Col. Fremont in quelling the revolt, now backed by a Mexican nrmy of six hundred men, under Gens. Flores and Pico. These forces he met and defeated at San Gabriel on the 8th of January. The next day, he again fought and routed them at Mesa. The Mexicans then marched twelve miles past Angelos to Cowenga, where they capitulated to Col. Fremont, who had, after a tedious, wintry march from the north, of four hundred mile?, arrived at that place. On the 16th of January, Com. Stockton commissioned Fremont as governor, the duties of which he had discharged about six weeks, when Gen. Kearney, according to orders re- ceived from government, assumed the office and title of governor of California. Com. Shubrick, who was now the naval commander, co-operated with Kearney, whose forces were augmented about the last of January, by the arrival of Col. Cooke with the Mor- mon battalion, which had marched from Council Bluffs to Santa Fe. Gen. Kearney, by direction of government, placing Col. Mason in the office of governor, on the 16th of June took his way homeward across the northern part of California, and from thence crossed the Rocky Mountains through the South Pass. Before the news of peace was received in California, a new era commenced in the dis- covery of the gold mines. The peculiar state of affair* brought about by this, with the great rush of population., was such that the people were in a measure compelled to form a constitution of state government. The convention, for this purpose, met at Monterey in 1849, and on the 12th of October, formed the constitution, which was adopted by the peo- ple. After much delay, California was admitted into the Union by action of congress, in September, 1850. The first officers elected under the state constitution were, Peter H. Burnett, governor; John McDougal, licut. governor; John C. Fremont, Wm. M. Gwin, U. S. senators; Geo. W. Wright, Edward Gilbert, U. S. representatives: Wm. Van Vorhies, secretary of state; 462 CALIFORNIA. Richard Roman, treasurer; J. S. Houston, comptroller; Ed. J. C. Kewen, attorney gen- eral; Chas. J. Whiting, surveyor general; S. C. Hastings, chief justice; and J. A. Lyon and Nathaniel Beunett, associates. California, one of the Pacific states, is about 750 miles long, with an average breadth of about 200 miles, giving an area of 150,000 square miles. Its southern boundary approximates in latitude to that of Charles- ton, South Carolina: its northern to that of Boston, Massachusetts. This, with its variation of surface, gives it a diversity of climate, and consequently of productions. Geographically, its position is one of the best in the world, lying on the Pacific fronting Asia. ened to be, loaded firearms about their persons ; but these weapons availed noth m against the sudden stroke of the ' slung shot,' the plunge and rip of the knife, or the secret aiming of the pistol Xo decent man was in safety to walk the streets after dark : while at all hours, both of night and day, his prope'rty was jeopardized by incendiarism and burglary. All this while, the law, whose supposed 'majesty' is so awful in other countries, was here only a matter for ridicule. The police were few in number, and poorly as well as irregularly paid. Some of them were in league with the criminals themselves, and assisted these at all times to elude justice. Subsequent confessions of criminals on the eve of execution, implicated a considerable number of people in various high and low de- partments of the executive. Bail was readily accepted in the most serious cases, where the security tendered was ab- solutely worthless ; and where, whenever necessary, both prin- cipal and cautioner quietly dis- appeared. The prisons like- wise were small and insecure ; and though filled to overflow- ing, could no longer contain the crowds of apprehended offenders. When these were ultimately brought to trial, sel- dom could a conviction be ob- tained. From technical errors on the part of the prosecutors, laws ill understood and worse applied, false swearing of the witnesses for the prisoners, ab- sence often of the chief evi- dence for the prosecution, dis- honesty of jurors, incapacity, weakness, or venality of the judge, and from many other causes, the cases generally broke down and the prisoners were freed. Not one criminal Hisn( or VHITT*EEK ASTD By the San Traaeiaco YigOaace Committee. bid yet been executed. Yet it was notorious, that, at this period, at least one hun dred murders had been committed within the space of a few months; while innu- merable were the instances of arson, and of theft, robbery, burglary, and assault with intent to kill It was evident that the offenders defied and laughed at all the pony efforts of the authorities to control them. The tedious processes of legal tribunals had no terrors for them. As yet everything had been pleasant and safe, and they saw no reason why it should not alwavs be so. San Francisco had just been destroyed, a fifth time", by conflagration. The cities of Stockton and Nevada had likewise shared the same fate. That part of it was the doing of incendiaries no one doubted ; and too, no one doubteu but that this terrible state of things would continue, and grow worse until a new and very different executive from the legally -constituted one should rise up in vengeance against those pests that worried and preyed upon the vitals of society. It was at this fearful time that the Vigil- ance Committee was organized." This was in June, 1851, at which time the association organized '' for the protection of the lire* and property of the citizens and residents of the city of ton Frs.n- CALIFORNIA. 475 cisco." They formed a constitution and elected a room in which to hold their meetings, which were entirely secret The first person they arrested was John Jenkins, a notorious "Sydney cove." He was seized for stealing a safe on the 10th. of Jane. About 10 o'clock that night, the signal for calling the members wm* given the tolling of the bell of the Monumental Engine Company. Shortly after- ward about 80 members of the committee hurried to the appointed pace, and giv- ing die secret password were admitted. For two long hoars the committee closely examined the evidence and found him guilty. "At midnight the bell waa tolled, as sentence of death by hanging was passed" upon the wretched man. The i sounds at that unusual hour filled the anxious* crowds with awe. The < at this time was asked if he bad anything to say for himself, when he ' Xo, I hare nothing to say, only I wish to hare a cigar." This was handed to him. and afterward, at his "request, a little brandy and water. He was perfectly cool, and seemingly careless, confidently expecting, it was befiered, a rescue, up to the last moment A little before one o'clock, Mr. S. Brannan came out of die committee rooms, and ascending a mound of sand to die east of die Basse tte House, addressed the people He had been deputed, he said, by die committee, to inform diem that die prisoner's ease had been fairly tried, that he had been proved guilty, and was con- demned to be hanged: and that die sentence would be executed within one hour upon die plaza. He then asked die people if diey approved of die action of die committee, when great shouts of Ay ! Ay I burst forth, mingled with a few cries of Xo ! In die interval a clergyman had been sent for, who administered die last consolations of religion to die condemned. Shortly before two o'clock, die committee issued from die building; hearing die prisoner (who had his arms tightly pinioned) along with diem. The committee were all armed, and closely clustered around die culprit to prevent any possible chance of rescue A procession was formed : and die whole party, followed by the crowd, proceeded to die plaza, to die south end of die adobe building, which then stood on die north-west corner. The opposite end of the rope which was already about the neck of die victim was hastily dirown over a projecting beam. Some of the authorities attempted at difs stage of affairs to interfere, but their effort? were unavailing. They were civilly desired to stand back, and not demy what was still to be done The crowd, which numbered upward of a thousand, were perfectly quiescent or only applauded by look, gesture, and subdued voice die action of the committee Before die prisoner had reached die building, a score of persons seized die loose end of die rope and ran backward, dragging die wretch along die ground and raising him to die beam. Thus diey held him till he was dead. Xor did diey let die body go until same hours afterward, new volunteers relieving those who* were tired holding die rope Little noise or confusion took place. Muttered whispers among die spectators guided their movements or be- trayed their feelings. The prisoner had not spoken a word, eidier upon die or daring the rapid preparations for his execution. At die end he was pi strung up almost before he was aware of what was so immediately coming. was a strong-built, healthy man, and his struggles, when hanging, were very vio- lent for a few minutes." The next execution which took place was about a month later, that of James Stuart He was an Englishman, who had been transported to Australia for fwgeii. On leaving it he wandered in various parts of die Pacific until he reached Cali- fornia, where he was supposed to have committed more murders and other desper- ate crimes than any other villain in die country. Before his death be acknowl- edged the justice of his punishment He was hung July lldi. from a derrick at the end of Market-street wharf, in die presence of assembled thouainnV One more month rolled round, and the committee again exercised dieir duties upon the persons of Samuel Whittaker and Robert McKenzie, who were guilty of robbery, murder and arson, and on trial confessed these crimes. The sheriff and his posse with a writ of kafoeu rorptu, took these men from die hands of die mittee and confined diem in jail The latter, fearful that die rascals through die quibbles of die law. prepared for die rescue it half past two o'clock," says die Aanab of San Francisco, "on the 476 CALIFORNIA. noon of Sunday, the 24th of August, an armed party, consisting of thirty-six members of the Vigilance Committee, forcibly broke irito the jail, at a time when the Rev. Mr. Williams happened to be engaged at devotional exercises w>th the prisoners, among whom were "Whittaker and McKenzie. The slight defense of the jailers and guards was of no avail. The persons named were seized, and hurried to and placed within a coach, that had been kept in readiness a few steps from the prison. The carriage instantly was driven off at full speed, and nearly at the same moment the ominous bell of the J'onumental Engine Company rapidly and loudly tolled for the immediate assemblage of the committee and the knell itself of the doomed. The whole population leaped with excitement at the sound ; and immense crowds from the remotest quarter hurried to Battery-street. There blocks, with the necessary tackle, had been hastily fastened to two beams which projected over the windows of the great hall of the committee. Within seventeen minutes after the arrival of the prisoners, they were both dangling by the neck from these beams. The loose extremities of the halters being taken within the building itself and forcibly held by members of the committee. Full six thousand people were present, who kept an awful silence during the short time these prepa- rations lasted. But so soon as the wretches were swung off, one tremendous shout of satisfaction burst from the excited multitude; and then there was silence again. This was the last time, for years, that the committee took or found occasion to exercise their functions. Henceforward the administration of justice might be safely left in the hands of the usual officials. The city now was pretty well cleansed of crime. The fate of Jenkins, Stuart, Whittaker and McKenzie showed that rogues and roguery, of whatever kind, could no longer expect to find a safe lurking-place in San Francisco. Many of the suspected, and such as were warned off by the committee, had departed, and gone, some to other lands, and some into the mining regions and towns of the interior. Those, however, who still clung to California, found no refuge anywhere in the state. Previously, different cases of lynch law had occurred in the gold districts, but these were solitary instances which had been caused by the atrocity of particular crimes. When, however, the Vigilance Committee of San Francisco had started up, fully organized, and began their great work, Sacramento, Stockton, San Jose, as well as other towns and the more thickly peopled mining quarters, likewise formed their committees of vigil- ance and safety, and pounced upon all the rascals within their bounds. These associations interchanged information with each other as to the movements of the suspected; and all, with the hundred eyes of an Argus and the hundred arms of a Briareus, watched, pursued, harassed, and finally caught the worst desperadoes of the country. Like Cain, a murderer and wanderer, as most of them were, they bore a mark" on the brow, by which they were known. Some were hanged at various places, some were lashed and branded, but the greater number were simply ordered to leave the country, within a limited time, under penalty of immediate death if found after a stated period within its limits. Justice was no longer blind or leaden-heeled. With the perseverance and speed of a bloodhound, she tracked criminals to their lair, and smote them where they lay. Fora long time afterward, the whole of California remained comparatively free from outrages against person and property. From all the evidence that can be obtained, it is not supposed that a single in- stance occurred in which a really innocent man suffered the extreme penalty of death. Those who were executed generally confessed their guilt, and admitted the punishment to have been merited." San Francisco, in common with all of the American cities in California, has suffered terribly from tremendous conflagrations. The towns when first founded were composed mostly of frail wooden tenements, intermingled with tents, which in the dry season became like tinder, so that when a fire broke out and got headway it was impossible to arrest it. San Francisco. Sacramento City, Stockton, and other places were several times successively destroyed. CALIFORNIA. 477 No sooner, however, was the work of destruction completed, than the inhab- itants rushed forth like so many bees, and dashing aside the smoking embers, went to work to build new habitations; when lo ! in a twinkling, a fairer city would arise, as it were by magic, on the ashes of the old, called forth by the matchless energy and fertility of invention of the most extraordinary, wonder-working body of men that had ever been gathered to found a state the adventurous and enterprising of every clime, self-exiles, driven thither by the eager thirst for gold. Beforfe midsummer of 1851, San Francisco had been visited by six "great' fires, most of them the work of incendiaries. By them nearly all the old land marks and buildings of Yerba Buena had been obliterated, and the total value of property destroyed amounted to about twenty millions. The most destructive was that of the 4th May, 1851, when, in the short space of ten hours, nearly 2,000 houses were destroyed, many lives, and property to the amount of from ten to twelve millions. "A considerable number of buildings, which were supposed fire-proof, had been erected in the course of the preceding year, the solid walls of which, it was thought, would afford protection from the indefinite spreading of the flames, when fire should unhappily break out in any particular building. But all calculations and hopes on this subject were mocked and broken. The brick walls that had been so confidently relied upon, crumbled in pieces before the furious flames; the thick iron shutters grew red hot and warped, and only increased the danger and insured final destruction to everything within them. Men went for shelter into these fancied fire-proof brick and iron bound structures, and when they sought to come forth again, to escape the heated air that was destroying them as by a close fire, they found, O horror ! that the metal shutters and doors had expanded by the heat, and could not be opened! So, in these huge, sealed furnaces, several perished miserably San Francisco had never before suffered so severe a blow, and doubts were entertained by the ignorant that she could possibly recover from its effects. Such doubts were vain. The bay was still there, and the people were also there ; the placers of the state were not yet exhausted, and its soil was as fertile and inviting as ever. The frightful calamity, no doubt, would retard the triumphant progress of the city but only for a time. The citizens of San Fran- cisco were content only to