^•iSjOs f THE UNIVERSITY ^ OF ILLIMOIS FROM th: library or €NP AI^W CAWiMA, SMWANIl)* G^ALDANA L^2tLADA w B^K^GVARDO PVKCHA 5 ED 1921 9I4.'5G/1 NiM-S&itiiAGe cop -2 LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF IlllNOL' t 'nna ^TtTrrit . 1 '' . \'^', ; / ■ €= ^ / 0^ - '^i /Hi ^^^,pRTEL|Rfe Miiutt*^doi- «\v\\\‘, / ^S.‘«*i' fiT'rr < / j J Z< V^S^^l«,^■i'■ii'• '''_ -'■j ’.*1 r' V 4 - » -• .yJ- > I j‘ I V '^1 «/« JV«*7J<> i}^y (on ii^olc 'VTX?k>oy;^' Cfppinn %!hCr^ iiiirtJt ?y'. , Treseixi ^VTSohvf^U?' n^yTZf? livlla- >, i’t 7 V 3 ^^^''-'^^. ^liOi''‘'*'‘M’'^ l^S ; \it> .. ', 11 '' iiujtninf ili'iiv''"'’' W jjh^ip'ii'o noii lb *-■ i il|l>ll‘'V'V' hxdt MfZXrltl t-nn^u-U/ liM '^if y(lt'ii/ii}'‘it7f!<7^: [yrr^^ :\f'liif4ni:p' IncuJh Kdolo^ litonw ,„i"'">i ^ fi ftT.'MT'ADAIVIELLO V . V/.fe ^^vv'''V ■ 3l.. 4 .## LyfOj-'l 'Mdlrvuni n’\y nct^(< r'»oi> JJdOh fxo St'tnthrl. (^^j^/lr Uid il l.oruliOl : Jt*i}n Mtirrav THE KNAPSACK GUIDE FOR TRAVELLFiRS IN TYROL AND THE EASTERN ALPS. ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND PLANS. LONDON; JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS : A. & W. GALIGNANI & CO.; XAVIER. FLORENCE: GOODBAN. MILAN: ARTARIA. TURIN: MAGGI. VENICE : MUNSTER. ROME : SPITHOVER. NAPLES: MRS. DORANT. 1867. The right of Translation is reserved. THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING AGENTS :— Germany^ Holland, and Belgium. AIX-LA. 1 CH APEI.LE f AMSTERDAM I. A.MAYER. J, MULLER. —W. KIR- BEKGER_VAN BAR¬ KEN ESS. ANTWERP BADEN-BADEN BERLIN . BRUSSELS CARLSRUHE . COLOGNE . DRESDEN . MAX. KOUNICKER. D. R. MARX. A DUNCKER. MUQUARDT. — KIESSLING A CO. A. BIELEFELD. EISEN. ARNOLD. FRANKFURT GRATZ THE HAGUE HAMBURG C. .lUGEL. DAMIAN A SORGE. VAN STOCKUM. PERTHES, BESSER A MAUKE. HEIDELBERG. MOHR. KISSINGEN LEIPZIG . LUXEMBOURG MANNHEIM MAYENCE MUNICH , NURNBERG PEST PRAGUE . ROTTERDAM . STUTTGART . TRIESTE . VIENNA . WIESBADEN . C. .lUGEL. BROCKHAUS.—DENICKE. BUCK. ARTARTA A FONTAINE. VON ZABERN. LITERARISCH - ARTISTI- SCHE ANSTALT — I. PALM. SCHRAG. HARTLEBEN.— G. HECK ENA ST. CALVE. PETRI.—KRAMERS. P. NEFF. MUNSTER. C. GEROLD —BRAUMUl.. LER.—STERNICKEL. C. JUGEL.—C.W.KREIDEL BASLE . BERN COIRE CONSTANCE GENEVA . LAUSANNE LUCERNE Switzerland. H.GEORG.—H. AMBERGER. GRUBENMANN. MECK. H. GEORG. — DESROGTS.— CH ERBULIEZ.—MONROE. MARTINIER A CHAVAN- NES.~T ROUSSY. F. KAISER. NEUCHATEL .GERSTER. SCHAFFHAUSENHI’RTER. SOLEURE . . JENT. ST. GALLEN . HUBER. ZURICH , , H. FUSSLI A CO.—MEYER A ZELLER. H. F. LEUTHOLD, I’OST- STRASSE. BOLOGNA FLORENCE GENOA LEGHORN LUCCA MANTUA . MILAN MODENA . NAPLES . PALERMO. Italy. M. RUSCONI. GOODBAN. GRANDONA A CO. — AN¬ TOINE BEUF.-T.D. ROSSI. MAZZA.IOLI. F. BARON. NEG BETTI. PARMA PISA . PERUGIA ROME SIENA TURIN ARTARIA A SON.— DUMOLARD FR^RES. VINCENZI A ROSSI. D El- K E N. —DU FRESNE.— PEDONE. PEDONE. VENICE VERONA , J. ZANGHIERT. . NISTRI.—JOS. VANNUCCHl . . VINCENZ. BARTELLI. . SPITHOVER.—PIALE. . ONORATO PORRI. . MAGGl.—GIANNINI. FIORE.—MARIETTI. BOCCA FRERES. . HERMAN F. MUNSTER.— MEINERS. . H. F. MUNSTER. — MEI¬ NERS. France. AMIENS . • CA RON. MONTPELLIER LEVALLE. ANGERS , • BA BASSE'. MULHOUSE RISLER. AVIGNON . • CLE'MENT ST. JUST. NANCY , • GO NET. AVRANCHES • AN FRAY. NANTES . • GUE'RAUn — PETTTPAS.— BAYONNE . • J A Y M EBON.—LASSERRE. POIRIER LEGROS.—AN¬ BORDEAUX • CHAUMAS. — MULLER. — DRE'.— Mme. VLOORS. SAUVAT.—FEKET. NICE . • VISCONTI.—GI BAUD.— BOULOGNE • \V A r E L.—M E RR1D E W. JOUGLA, BREST • H EBER r. ORLEANS , • G AT 1N E A U.—PESTY. CAEN . • BOISARD.—LEGOST.—CLE- PARIS • GALIGNANI.—XAVIER. BISSE'. PAU . • LAFON.—AUG. BASSY. CALAIS • RIGACX CAUX. PERPIGNAN • JULIA FRERES. CHERBOURG • Mli.k. LECOUFFLET. REIMS BRISSART BINET_GEOF- DIEPPE . • MARAIS. FROY DINANT . • cysTE ROCHEFORT • BOUCARD. DOUAI • J ACQUART.—LEMALE. ROUEN • L E B R U M E NT.—H AU LARD. DUNKERQUE • VANOENBUSSCHE. SAUMUR . • GAULTIER BRIE'RE. GRENOBLE • VEl.LOT ET COMP. ST. ETIENNE • DELARUE. HAVRE • COCI1A R D. -BOURDIGNON. ST. MALO . • HUE. — FOUCH ER.— Mmb. BUYS. ST. QUENTIN • DOLOY. LILLE • BK'GHIN. STRASBOURG • TREUTTEL ET WURTZ — LYONS . • AYNE' FILS. — SCHEUR- GRUCKER. ING.—ME'RA. TOULON . • MONGE ET VILLAMUS. MARSEILLES • CAMolN FRERES.—LE TOULOUSE • GIMET a COTELLE. MEUNIER. TOURS • GEORGET. METZ . • WARION. TROYES , • LALOY.—DUFBY ROBERT. o S Vr COp.K PREFACE 01 or The Knapsack Guide for Tyrol and the Eastern Alps is another volume of the series of cheaper and more portable Guides to the Continent. Though based upon those portions of the Handbook for S. Germany which are concerned with the above- named Alpine region, it is a new work, for the most part derived from personal knowledge of the country described. Much nev/ matter, and several routes, especially with respect to the districts S. of the Central (diain of Alps, appear for the first time. The new material which has within the last three vears become available, in the publications either of the Vienna Alpine Club, that of London, or from other sources, has, so far as possible, been drawn upon. A few botanical notices have been inserted, which may perhaps be enlarged at some future period. The numbering of the Routes in the Handbook has (with two exceptions) been retained for convenience of reference to the fuller information on historical or archasological matters contained in that work, which it has been impossible to give in a volume of so limited a size. The aim has been to make the book as practical as may be, and at the same time to convey to the traveller, generally pressed for time, in the fewest words, all desii-able information. Pains have been taken to secure correctness in the notices of Inns, and of the means of locomotion, and to bring them down to the latest information. Special Maps of three districts to which the attention of the travelling public has been recently di-awm, are inserted, as well as two Route Maps, which, b}’- numliers affixed corresponding to the routes, furnish an index to the contents of the volume. The few pictorial illustrations relate to some of the most remarkable mountain forms occurring in the district. Corrections of errors and notices of omissions wdll be thankfully received by the publisher. CONTENTS.- INTEODUCTORY INFORMATION. COL, Sketch of the Eastern Alps . . xvii a. Passports.xxiii b. Customs.xxiv c. Money . .. xxv d. Measures.xxvi e. Distances.xxvi /. Railways.xxvi g. Roads.xxvii h. Eilwagen, or Mail-coaches, Separat-Wagen, &c. . xxix, xxx COL. i. Posting. Laufzettel, &c. . . . xxxi j. Horses and Mules .... xxxii k. Guides.xxxiil k Inns.xxxiii m. General Hints.xxxiv n. Health.xxxvi o Maps.xxxvil Alpine Vocabulary.xxxviii *** I'he names of many places are necessarily repeated in several Routes; but to facilitate reference, they are printed in Italics only in those Routes under which they are more particularly described. ROUTE COL. 176 Augsburg to Lindau, on Lake of Constance, by Kempten (Rail) ... 5 176A Lindau to Innsbruck, by Iminenstadt and Reutte . 10 177 Augsburg to Innsbruck, by Fitssen .13 185 Munich to Salzburg, by Rosenheim and the Chiem See (Rail;.18 185 A Munich to Berchtesgaden and Salzburg, by Traun- stein and Reichenhall. . 21 186 Munich to Inn.sbruck, by Lake of Starnberg and PaHenkirchen .... 24 187 Munich to Innsbruck, by Benedietbeuern and Lakes of Kochel and Walchen .28 188 Munich to Innsbruck, by Tegern See, Baths of Kreuth, and the Achen See .30 188a Munich to Innsbruck, by Miesbach, the Schlier See, and Kufstein • • • . 35 ROUTE COL. I88b Munich to Innsbruck (Rail), by Rosenheim and Kufstein .38 195 Salzburg to Linz and Vienna.47 199 Salzburg to Berchtesgaden and the Kdnigssee . . 61 199A Berchtesgaden to Bad Gastein, by the Steinerne Meer and Saalfelden . . 69 200 Salzburg to Bad Gastein, by Hallein and Wei fen . 71 201 Bad Gastein to Ober- Vellach by the Pass of Malnitz .84 202 Bad Gastein to Salzburg, by Zell am See and the Mitter Pinzgau ... 88 203 The Salzkammergut; Linz (or Lambach) to Lschl and Aussee, by the Falls of the Traun, and the Lakes of Gmunden and Hallstatt .92 204 The Lake of Hallstatt to Golling and Salzburg, by Gosau and Abtenau . 105 CONTENTS. si 9 • sn EODTE COL. 211 Feldkirch to Coire, by the Luziensteig . . . ■ . .127 212 Bregenz, on the Lake of Constance, to Innsbruck by the Arlberg , . .129 212 A Bregenz to Keutte, by the Bregenzer Wald and Lech Thai .... 144 213 Innsbruck to Landeck, Meian, and Botzen, by the Finsterrnunz Pass . 151 214 Milan to Innsbruck by the Pass of the Stelvio (Stilf- ser Joch).164 214A Bormio to Male, in Val di Sole.183 215 The Octz Thai, Pitz Thai, and Kauris Thai. Inns¬ bruck to Meran, by the Tirnhler Joch ; or by the Fender Thai and Koch Joch or Nicder Joch . .189 215 A The Stuhay Thai. Inns¬ bruck to the Oetzthal . 208 216 Meran to Sterzing, by the Passeyr Thai and Pass 0^ Jaufen . . . .218 216A Botzen to Sterzing or the Passeyrthal, by the/S'am Thai . . 222 217 Innsbi'uck to Verona, by the Brenner Pass, Bot¬ zen, and Trent. . . .225 218 Roveredo to Riva and Peschiera, by the Lago di Garda .248 219 Trent to Riva, on the Lago di Garda.253 220 Trent to Edolo, by the Valleys of Non and Sole and Pass of Monte Tonale 25 6 220A Meran or Botzen to Brescia, by Val Rendena and the Giudicaria . .265 221 Trent to Cortina d’Am¬ pezzo, by the Fleimser Thai, Val Fossa, the Fedaia Pass, Caprile, I and Pass of Gusella . .280 BOUTE COL. 222 Trent to Venice, by Val Siigana . 222A Primolano, in Val Su- gana, to Cortina d’Am¬ pezzo, by Primiero, Agordo, and Caprile . . 223 Brixen to Villach, by the Puster Thai .... 2 23A The Gail Thai, from Silian, in the Puster Thai, to Villach on the Drave ; also Pass of Sta. Croce . 224 Brunecken, in Pusterthal, to Heiligenblut, by An- tholz, the Valley of Te~ fereggen, and the Kaiser Thai . 224A Windisch Matrei to Bru¬ necken, by Pregraten and St. Jacob . 224B St. Jacob to Heiligengeist, by the Ochsenleute Tauern 225 Brunecken to Zell, in the Ziller Thai, by Valley of Taufers and the Kr-irnler Tauern . 225 A Heiligengeist, in the Ahren Thai, to Windisch Matrei, in the Isel 'I'hal 226 Lienz, in the Pusterthal, to Mittersill, in the Pinz- gau, by Windisch Matrei and the Velber Tauern . 227 Brunecken, through the Gader Thai (Enneberg), to Cortina d’Ampezzo; or by the Groden Thai, to Botzen. 228 Innsbruck to Venice, by Brunecken and Pass of Ampezzo . 228a Innichen, in Pusterthal, to Pieve di Cadore, by the Sexten Thai . . . 229 Salzburg to Innsbruck . . 229A (234 in * 9 . Germ. Hand¬ book) Wdrgl, in Inn Thai, to Gasteiu, by Kitzbuhl o and Mittersill .... 294 301 310 320 324 331 333 335 341 343 346 357 369 374 380 XIU CONTENTS. XIV EOCTB COL. 230 Innsbruck to Gastein or Salzburg, by the Ziller Thai, the Gerlos Fass, and the Pinzgau . . .382 231 Sondrio, in the Valtelline, to Brescia, by the Pass of Aprica, Val Camonica, and Lago Iseo .... 400 231 A Brescia to Riva, by Lago Tldro .404 232 Roveredo to Vicenza, by the Valle del Signori and Schio, with Excursions to the Sette Comuni and Baths of Recoaro . 408 232 A Vicenza to Schio, by the Baths of Pecoaro . .414 233 Schio to Belluno, by Bas- s&no ojidL Feltre . . .417 240 Salzburg to Gratz, by Ischl, Aussee, Leoben, and Bruck, on the Mur . 429 241 Lietzen to the Monastery of Admont and to Eisern- erz, by the Pass Gesduse 438 242 Linz to Gratz, by Steyer and Eisernerz . < . , 440 243 Salzburg to Laibach, by the Radstadter Tauern and Klagenfurt .446 243 A Klagenfurt to Krainburg, by Kappel; or to Cili, by the Caldron of the Steiner Alp . . , .467 Index BOUTS COL. 244 Lienz, in the Pusterthal, through the Mblthal, to Heiligenhlut and the Gross Glockner, and over the Rauriser Tauern to Bad Gastein .... 472 245 Vienna to ALariazell and Bruck on the Mur . .490 246 Mariazell to Eisenerz, by Wildalpen . 499 247 Vienna to Gratz (Rly.), over the Semmering , .506 248 Gratz to Laibach and Trieste (Rly.)j with Ex¬ cursions to the Quick- silver-mines of Idria, the Lake of Zirknitz, and the Caves of Adelsberg and Planina . . . . 538 250 Vienna to Venice, by Judenberg, Klagenfurt, Pontebba, Udine, and Treviso.570 251 Villach to Laibach, through the Valley of the Save. Excursions to Lake of Veldes and the Terglou . 5 90 253 Gratz to Klagenfurt, by Marburg, and Excursion up the Lavantthal , .599 254 Trieste to Villach, by Gbrz, the Valley of the Lsonzo, and the Predil Pass .603 611 MAPS, PLANS, AND CONIODB SKETCHES OF MOUNTAINS. Map —Orteler Spitze and Adamello .. Plan —Salzburg .. .. .. Berclitesgaden and the Watzmann The Traunstein, Dachstein, &c., from near Linz Plan —Innsbruck The Orteler Spitze, from the Vintschgau Bocca di Brenta Rosengarten, from Sasso di Damm Marmolata, from Sasso di Damm Monte Civita, from above Caprile Cima Cimedo, near Primiero .. Langkofel, from St. Peter’s, below St. Ulrich Gross Venediger and the Sulzbach Valleys, from a po aid •• •• •• at Map —Caldron of the Steiner Alp * .. The Gross Glockner and Heiligeublut Plan —Grotto of Adelsberg .. Map —Marmolata District and Region of Dolomite Mountains at the end. COL, to face Title, 47 a. 63, 64 .. a. 93 139,140 .. I 57 » 158 273,274 .. 285, 286 a. 289, 290 a. 291, 292 a. 305*306 •• •• 355 nt N. of •• 393* 394 to face 542 a a 477*478 .. 555*556 ERRATA AND ADDITIONS. At col. 308, 5 th line, after to Belluno, insert — [A grand ravine W. leads in 12 m. to Forno [Inn) in Val di Zoldo, Rte. 222A. From Forno a pleasant path leads by Cibiana to Cadore.] Col. 540, Kanisza should be Kanizsa. SKETCH OP THE EASTEEN ALPS. S'^iTZEELAXi) and Tyrol occupy the central portion of the great Alpine zone which stretches from the shores of the Mediterranean at Nice on the W. to nearly the borders of Hun¬ gary and the neighbourhood of Vienna on the E. The routes of the present volume take up those of the Swiss Knapsack Guide on the Tyrolese frontier, and are continued, east¬ ward, through all the remaining re- gion of the Alps, and the several provinces of Tyrol, Salzburg, Aus¬ tria proper, Styria, Carinthia, and Carniola, so far as they are Alpine ill character. A portion of the Italian territory is included, since this also belongs to the same moun¬ tain tract, or forms an approach to it; and, for the same reason, to the districts of Bavaria adjoining Tyrol on the N. several routes are assigned. With the exception of the Bava¬ rian Alps and those now comprised in the kingdom of Italy, the whole Alpine region here described belongs to the Austrian empire. Although the mountains of this vast area pass under the general name of Alps, it is not to be sup¬ posed that, any more than in France or Switzerland, they form one con¬ tinuous chain. They consist rather of a series of groups, the structure and relations of which it is the pro¬ vince of the geologist, and beyond the purpose of the present work, to describe.* It may be desirable, however, to enumerate some of the leading designations, and to give a general notion of the composition of this mountain land, which may help the traveller in his selection of the routes which follow. Forming a great arch that, com¬ mencing in Switzerland, stretches from S.W. to N.E. through Tyrol, are tlie Eiihltian Alps. Of these the loftiest and noblest portion, the Bernina group, is within the Swiss frontier, but closely adjoining this, on the Tyrol side, is its rival the Orteler group, of which the noted Orteler Spitze is at once the principal peak and the highest mountain in Tyrol. The Oetzthdl Alps, a vast mass of snow and glacier, of which the culminating point is the Wild Spitze, follow eastward, and with them is connected the snowy group of the Stubay Thai, abutting on the line of the Brenner pass. Beyond this again, the ice-clad chain still stretches eastward as the Zillerthal group (a designation adopted for want of a better), till at the Krimler Tauern, sometimes giving name to this por¬ tion of it, the Rhaetian range is usually considered to end, * A general idea of the geological ar¬ rangement of the Alps may be obtained from the recent work of M. E. Desor, ‘ Der Gebirgsbau der Alpen/ 150 pp. 8vo, Wiesbaden, 1865. XIX SKETCH of the EASTERN ALPS. XX But the great central snowy chain does not end with the name. Under the title of the Noric Alps, be¬ ginning at the Krimler pass, and with the grand Venediger Spitze, it continues the same general course, forming now the frontier between Tyrol and Salzburg, till in the noble Gross Glockner, just within the bor¬ ders of Carinthia, the Noric range reaches its greatest elevation.* Be¬ yond this it extends with subsiding masses along the north boundary of Carinthia into Styria. To this great range, or arch of mountains, is confined, with one ex¬ ception presently to be named, the region of ice and snow so character¬ istic of the Swiss and Western Alps. It nowhere equals in elevation the highest of these, but in several por¬ tions may well compare with them in extent of surface and beauty of form. Rtes. 214 to 215A, 217, 220, 224 to 226, 230, 243, and 244, refer to this backbone of the country. North of this immense barrier stretch three great valleys. The first and longest is that of the Inn, commencing, like the range itself, in Switzerland, and draining the north¬ ern flank of the Rhaetian Alps all through Tyrol. Holding a similar re¬ lation to the Noric Alps, is the Valley of the Salzach, the stream of which flows through Salzburg; and fur¬ ther to the E. the Valley of the Enns lies similarly on the northern side of the Styrian portion of the chain. These three valleys all run for a considerable distance parallel with the high snowy chain, and separate it from a series of less lofty, but ex¬ ceedingly picturesque, mountains on the K., which, naming them from W. to E., are, first, those of the * The honour of being the loftiest snow- peak in the Austrian dominions is now yielded to the Orteler. Vorarlberg, abutting on the Lake of Constance; next, the Bavarian Alps ; then those of Salzburg; and, lastly, those of that part of upper Austria known as the Salzkammergut, and which are the most channing of all. These mountain ranges form the outworks of the Eastern Alps to¬ wards the German plains; through them the three rivers—the Inn, the Salzach, and the Enns—find their exit; through them lie all the ap¬ proaches from the N. to the sublime scenery of the high chain, and through them therefore an ample number of routes—176 to 189, 199 to 205, 230, 240 to 243, and 245 to 247—are here given for the tra¬ veller’s service. South of the great chain lies a country equal for the most part in pictui-esqueness, and even exceeding in interest, that just referred to on the N. It is here that the delight¬ ful elements of Italian scenery begin to show themselves. Commencing the enumeration again on the western side, there will be found, S. of the Rhjstian range, a complicated and most diversified mountain district, which may be termed, rather loosely, the Lombard Alps, lying between the well-known Italian Lakes W. and the strongly- marked Valley of the Adige E. Among these occurs the above- mentioned exceptional snowy range in the Adamello group, directly S. of that of the Orteler, and rivalling it in beauty. The Tyi’ol frontier passes through this group, which, with the rest of the Lombard Alps, has been little explored. Several routes, how¬ ever—214 and 214 A, 218 to 2 20 A, 231 and 231 A —conduct the traveller through or along the borders of this romantic tract of country. Proceeding eastward across the deep Valley of the Adige, we next find the Dolomite Mountains, xxi CARNIC—JULIAN—KABA WANKAS ALFS. nearly 4000 square miles in extent, the marvel and the glory of South Tyrol; these are more particulaily referred to in the special introduction to that couniiy, and to them Rtes 'll’], 111 to 223, 227 to 228 a, and 223, more or less apply. More eastward still, come the Carnic Alps, which, though some¬ what inferior in beauty to those hitherto named, offer some interest¬ ing points, and contain some fine isolated masses of dolomite. The Carnic Range forms part of the S. frontier of Carinthia, and ciides round the Venetian province of Friuli. Rtes. 223, 250, and 251 re¬ fer to them. Stretching down towards Trieste from the eastern corner of the Cai iiic chain, appear the Julian Alps, their highest summit the Terglou. They are remarkable for desolate severitv, but contain some valleys of rare beautv. 'I’hese have brought us to Carniola, and Rtes. 248, 250, and 254. Separating that province from Carinthia on the N. is the last Alpine range to be mentioned, the Karawankas Alps, hitiierto the least known of any, of no great height, blit enclosing much secluded and de¬ lightful sceneiy ; details sufficient for their exploration will be found in Rtes. 243 and 243A. The great valleys on the S. of the main chain are, first (on the W.), that of the Adda or the Valtelline, issuing upon the Lake* of Como ; se¬ cond, that of the Adige, which has always proved the chief avenue of access from the S.; third, that of the Piave, opening N. of Venice; fourth, the Isonzo, N. of Trieste; and fifth, the Save above Laibach, 'i'hese all penetiate the mountain- land more or less at right angles, and form easy means of approach. ' Two other valleys lying alongside the great chain on the S., and thus answering moreexactlv to the north- ern valleys, are the Fu&terthal, through which fiows the Hienz west¬ ward, eventually reaching the Adige ; and the great and noble valley of the Drave, which puisues a long course eastward to the Danube. The comparative merits, in a tourist sense, of the different Pro- vinces to which the Guide-book le- fers, can be judged of in some degree from the foregoing brief description. It will be seen that the highest interest centres in Tgrol. It is largest in extent; the loftiest sum- utits are within or close upon its borders; it includes the greatest va¬ riety of scenery, in snow-clad Alps, in forest tracts, in populous x’^alleys, in the fantastic foims of dolomite, in the richness of Italian vegetation. To Tyrol, therefore, the greatest number of routes is allotted. Salzburg, and the adjoining dis¬ trict belonging to Austria proper, called the Salzkammergut, come next in order for a picturesque beauty unrivalled of its kind. Styria and GarinSiia contain a vast amount of intricate woodland as well as mountain scenery, and the latter is especially rich in feudal re¬ mains. Carniola is for the most part arid and severe, but its moun¬ tain portion possesses many curious features and a few charming spots. Bavaria forms in its mountain districts an agreeable introduction to all these Aljiine lands, and is espec;ially favoured in its lakes. The best starting points for Tyrol and the Eastern Alps are—on the N., Augsburg, Munich, Salzburg, Linz, and Vienna, with all which express trains from Paris and Cologne afford rapid communication ; on the S., Milan, Bre.scia, Veiona, A^enice, and Trieste, all connected by a line of rail. The chief inlets on the W. are genehal infobmation. • • • xxni xxiv from Switzerland by the Lake of Constance, the Engadine, and the Valtelline; and Bregenz, Coire, or Chiavenna, the latter serving equally for the Engadine or Valtelline, may be made points of departure. On the E. the piincipal stations on the Vienna and Trieste Hly. give ready access, especially Bruck, Gratz, Mar¬ burg, and Laibach. GENEKAL INFOEMATION. a. Passports.— h. Customs.— c. Money.— d. Measures.— e. Distances.— /.Railways.— g. Roads.— h. Eilwagen: Separat-Wagen.— i. Posting.— j. Horses.— k. Guides.— I, Inns. 0. Maps. a. Passports. —Although no pass¬ port is now required for any part of Central Europe, it is still desirable to be furnished with one as a means ot identification, a protection in case ot a police difficulty, and a facility in dealing with public establishments, post-offices, &c. A Foreign-office passport, which is good for life, is the best to travel with ; and this, with all necessary information, can l>e readily obtained through Lee and Carter, 440, Strand; Dorrell and Son, 15, Charing Cross; or any of the passport agents. They will require to be furnished with a letter of recom¬ mendation, naming in full each male member of the party, from either a Member of Parliament, a banker, magistrate, clergyman, solicitor, or surgeon — printed instructions for which either Messrs. Lee and Carter or Messrs. Dorrell and Son supply upon application; and they will return the passport, conveniently bound in leather, in 2 or 3 days. The practical advantage derived by the traveller fiom the abolition of the passport system consists in the fact that a “ visa ” for each journey is -m. General Hints,— n. Health.— no longer necessary,—not even for Austria, except in times of political disturbance — so that, the passport once obtained, there is no further trouble, delay, or expense to be in¬ curred. 6. Customs. —Alternate black and yellow stripes on a post, a toll-bar, or custom-house door mark the frontier of Austria (as blue and white that of Bavaria); also the letters K. K. (Kaiserlich-Koniglich), Imperial and Royal. The Austrian douaniers are generally remarkably civil; and if there be no cause for suspicion, examination of baggage is usually very slight. The tra¬ veller should respond in civility, and carefully avoid infringing the regulations. Tobacco, l)eing an Im¬ perial monopoly, is sti ictly excluded, though a small quantity of it, under 5 lbs., as also of snuff, cigars, or tea, may be passed on payment of duty. In larger quantity these articles, together with almanac.s, playing- cards, and sealed letters, are abso¬ lutely prohibited. When there is a crowd to be served, it is often worth XXV MONEY—MEASURES—RAIL WA YS. xxvi while to fee the douaniers with a gulden or 2 frs.—never the passport officials, though a porter, if em¬ ployed, may expect a few kreutzers. c. Money. —The money of Austria is in florins and kreutzers—100 kr. to I fl., and the latter is nominally worth 2S. English; most transac¬ tions, however, are in paper, which fluctuates considerably in its rate. Bank notes ai-e current from i fl. to 1000 fl., and descend as low as 10 kr., which are sometimes torn in halves and quarters; coins of 10 ki*. are, however, now generally in use. Those marked 6 belong to an old coinage, and are equal in value to the present lo-kr. pieces. The notes are very portable, and should be obtained at the first towns on the route, ot the regular agents named in the letter of credit. Ex¬ change has of late years been in favour of the tiaveller, so that the 10/. circular-note has sometimes ob¬ tained II2 or II4 fl.; but this is a variable matter. In the Venetian territory the cur¬ rency is in franchi and centissimi, as in France and other parts of Italy. For these provinces a stock of na¬ poleons is the best money to be pro¬ vided with. Bavai'ia also reckons in florins and kreutzers, but they are of a different value—60 kr. to the florin, and this worth but IS. bgc/. Eng., all in coinage. Circular notes for lol. and up¬ wards can be obtained at almost all the London banks. By preserving the letter accompanying the notes, the value ot the latter can be recovered, if lost. The accredited agents are usually to be relied on for giving a fair rate of exchange, but not always south of the Alps—Trent, for in¬ stance. Fiench gold is there more advantageous. a. Measures. Austrian. I Vienna foot . , I Klafter . . . I Austrian mile I Austrian post (2 Aust. miles) I Vienna pound An Austrian English. I foot 5^ lines. } 6 ft. 2 in. 8 lines. 4 m. 5 fur. 157 yds. 9 m. I fur. 91 yds. I lb j| oz. — - mile may be approx¬ imately reckoned at qf Eng. m. The German mile is a little less—say 4§. Italian. English. I Italian mile . . i m. i fur. 45 yds. I Italian post 1 (8 Ital. m.) j . 9 m. I fur. 142 yds. In calculating heights of moun¬ tains from foreign maps add if the figures be given in Vienna feet, and -jb if in Paris feet: in dealing with mfetres, multiply by 3, and to the product add a 12th and an 8th of that I2th. e. Distances.— Throughout this work all distances have, as much as possible, been reduced to Eng. miles, as affording the best guide to the tra¬ veller in his calculations. Small intermediate distances are, however, only approximate; their principal use is to indicate the relative dis-» tances of noticeable points, and save constant reference to the map. Over mountain passes the estimation is difficult, and hours are either sub¬ stituted or added ; these are gene¬ rally given according to the reckon¬ ing of the inhabitants, and answer ;o from 2^ to 3 m. per hour. /. Railways. —As already stated, rly. lines are carried along three sides of the gi-eat quadrangle in¬ cluded in the tours : N. from Augsburg to Vienna, ' S. from Milan to Venice and Trieste. E. from Vienna to Trieste. The W. side is bounded in part by rly. lines from Zurich and Bregenzj- xxvii GENETIAL JNFOBMATION. xxviii as far as Coire, at foot of the Spliigen Pass, over which there is a line of well-appointed diligences to Chia- venna and Colico, on the Lake of Como. Besides these, there are— from ihe N. the 3 or 4 short lines parti- ctdarised in the Introd. to Bavaria, which lead to the foot of the Bavai ian Highlands that from Bosenheim (between Munich and Salzburg) to Innsbruck, which lands tlie traveller in the capital of Tyrol; and further on, that fi om Lambach to Gmunden, penetrating the Salzkam- mergut. From ihe E., 1st, a shoi t line ends from Gratz to KoHach, which, n connection with a stelhvagen 3 times a week, communicates with Wolfsberg, in ti:e Lavantthal, in N. Carinthia. 2nd, lower down, from Marburg, a line up the valley of the Di’ave to Klagenfurt, capital of Carinthia, and on to Villach, whence a further extension to I.ienz, in Tyrol, and then by the Pusterthal to Brixen, is contemplated, which will lay open the entire S. flank of the Noric Alps. From the S. is, ist, the short line from Milan to Como; and 2nd, the very important one from Verona up the valley of the Adige, at present open as far as Botzen, but being rapidly pushed up over the Brenner to Innsbruck, thus completing a rly. route which will intersect the country from N. to S. Austrian rly. carriages are gene¬ rally comfortable; non-smoking car¬ riages are attached to most trains. 40 lbs. of luggage arc allowed fiee ; overplus moderately charged. Re¬ freshments are not to be had at every station; but at intervals of 4 or 5 hrs. a good restauiant is found, and a stoppage allowed of 10 or 15 min. g. Roads. —The Austrian post¬ roads are generally excellent; and the country communes are rapidly super¬ seding the ancient mule-tracks by fair roads in all the valleys. This process is so general that when in the following routes a mule-track only is indicated, the traveller had better satisfy himself by inquiry whether it still be so. The main Alpine roads —those which cross the great bar- l ier from N. to S.—cannot, with one exception, compare in grandeur with those of Switzerland, such as the Simplon or the Spliigen. That ex- cei>tion is the Stelvio (9177 ft.), the most w'estern of the Austi ian road- passes, and perhaps the most wonder¬ ful in the Alps. Unfortunately, since the cession of Lombardy, it is no longer kept in good repair, or traversed by a public vehicle. The next to it on the E. crosses from Landeck, by Finstei miinz, to Meran, over the Re- schen Scheideck (45 95 ft.), so gradual in ascent as scarcely to assume the character of a pass at all. Then comes Ihe Brenner (4587 ft.), an ancient, good, and most useful road—not par¬ ticularly remarkable for scenery, but connecting two magnificent distiicts, the valley of the Inn with that of the Adige. This, as has been stated, will soon be superseded by a rly. No other road for vehicles exists over the main chain eastward till it has subsided into the comparatively low ranges beyond the Gioss Glock- ner, in Caiinthia and Styi ia. The first that occurs is one from Salz¬ burg to Villach, by the Radstadter Tavern (5 702 ft.), which, picturesque on either side, is monotonous on the pass itself; this is traversed by a dil. 3 times a week. The next is one over the Rottenmanner Tavern (5861 ft.), which connects the valley of the Enns with that of the Mur, both in Styria, and afterwards ci osses a sub¬ sidiary range into Carinthia; 40 m. of this, not of much interest, is served only by country cars, A xxix XXX -B0AB8, ElLWAGEN,&c. second of the same name is more important, though much lower (2 775 ft.); continuing up the valley from Kottenmann S.K., it crosses over to Leoben, in the Mur Thai; this is a daily dil. route. So far for the main chain ; but S. of this, over the secondai y mountain ranges, are several highly interesting roads, though, like the others, of no great elevation. The first of these —a diligence route — is that of the Ampezzo (4985 ft.), which, running through the heart of the dolomite mountains, is in the highest degree romantic; and, as connecting the Fusterthal, in Tyrol, with the Venetian provinces, is very useful also. Eventually falling into the same line, and scarcely inferior in sceneiy, is a road further E. from Innichen in the Pusterthal, by Sexten, to Cadore ; only country cars traverse this. The roads of the Ponfebba and the Predil, both diverging from larvis, in Carinthia, follow at a considerable distance; the one de¬ scends to Udine, the other to Gorizia: both are very picturesque, but espe¬ cially the latter, which crosses the Julian Alps (dil. only on the fiist named, which is part of the old high road between Vienna and Venice bv way of Klagenfurt). Then comes the pass of the Leobl or Loibl, over the Karawankas, from Klagenfurt to Lai¬ bach (dil. daily)—fine in scenery; and then a very steep road through a curious country by Kappel to Krain- berg, over the Seeberg, impossible for any but light cars. This is the last deserving the name of an Alpine pass-road, unless we name that of the Semmering, near Vienna, (3256 ft)., connecting the duchy of Austria with Styria, and now super¬ seded by the rail, which crosses at a lower level. h. Eilwagen, or Mail-coaches, Separat- Wagen, ^c .—In Austria coach-office and post-office, both Government establishments, are usu¬ ally under the same roof; places are not generally numbered. Passengers can only be taken up or set down at the office. If they have taken places I hr. before starting, they will be provided, if necessary, with “supplement” carriages: 40 lbs. of baggage are allowed free; above that weight it is charged highly, and liable to be transferred to the baggage-wagen. It must be sent to the office i hr. before the coach starts. A fee to the conducteur, or the man who weighs baggage, will often remove difficulties, such as that which sometimes arises from infringing the rule that leather trunks only can travel with the pas¬ sengers. Separat - Wagen. — Upon all post-i’oads on wliich an Eilwagen ti'avels, a party of 4, or any paying the fare of 4, may hire an Eilwagen to themselves, called a Separat-wagen, and this even on dajs when the regular Eilwagen does not go at all, at a small additional cost. It is almost as advantageous as posting, and yet much cheaper. It should be applied for a day in advance, and paid for beforehand. Iravellers can by this aivangement start the day and hour they choose, stop to sleep where they like, meet with relays of horses as readily as in dre regular Eilwagen, and encounter no exti'a ti-ouble, as even the. pos¬ tilion’s triirkgeld is included in the fare. Average cost of travelling by Eil¬ wagen is 48 kr. pel’ post; by the Separ at, 56 kr. per post each person. Stellwagen .—This is a soi’t of omnibus in use between all the prin¬ cipal towns, very cheap, and service- XXXI . GENEBAL INFORMATION. xxxii able for getting over dull and dusty roads, but slow and uncomfortable. t. Posting — Lanfzettel, ^c .—To be furnished with post-hoises to a private caniage, a permission from the police is sometimes required, given on presenting the passport. Caleches and chariots holding 4 per¬ sons and oidinaiy baggage, notwith¬ standing various particular regula¬ tions, require practically only 2 horses, a berlin or close carriage 4 ditto. Charges for posting are i fl. 5 2 kr. per horse per post; postilion, 70 kr. per post. The ostler is entitled to 8 kr. per post, and for greasing, &c., 8^or ro kr. more. A post-chaise, or half-covered ca- leche,, cotts 76 kr. per post. Ave¬ rage rate of travelling is i hr. 30 min. per post of 9J Eng. m. Einspanner (in Italian, Carettina). — Among the mountains, post¬ masters will usually furnish a one- horse-chaise for I or 2 persons, with a small amount of baggage, at rate per post of I fl. the horse, 15 kr. the open carriage (often a cart with¬ out springs, and sometimes without seats), 31 kr. a covered carriage, 15 kr. tlie postilion. The same sort of vehicle can also generally be hired at anv village on a road for a distance of 20 m. or so; but this is uncer¬ tain in busy times. It may be cal¬ culated as costing about 4c?. per Eng. m. Laafzettel .—In Austria (as well as the rest of Germany) a traveller wishing to journey quickly may be¬ speak horses to be in readiness all along his route (except across a fron¬ tier) ; the order for this (termed a Lauf-z^ttel, or current-ticket) is ob¬ tained by application at the extra post-office from 12 to 24 hrs. before starting, and costs little. The tra¬ veller may stop to sleep and dine, or for any other purpose, but must specify where and when. The notice which precedes him will also order dinner and beds, so that every com¬ fort is in readiness during the route, and the time of changing horses is abridged from 20 min. to 5. It is especially useful on roads not well supplied with horses. d'he St unden Puss (Hour pass) is another great convenience. This is a paper on which all posting expenses, horses, postilions, tolls, &:c., are set down befoiehand, and the traveller is relieved fiom all trouble connected with money till he reaches his desti¬ nation. If the postilions ask for a slight trinkgeld they need not have it, as they are paid at a rather higher rate. The pohtmasters mark the hour of arrival and departure on the pass at each station. It must be obtained at the Post-office the day before starting, and a charge of 10 per cent, is made, but it is worth while. j. Horses and Mules. —There is no regulai- ju'ovision of the»e in the Eastern Alps, and still less of side¬ saddles, except at one or two places of great resort, such as Bad-Gasteiu and Ischl. Even at such places, however, the fiequent arrangement for a side-saddle is a sort of pannier, the rider sitting sideways with feet on a board. Ladies therefore cannot so readily explore the country as in Switzerland. Side-saddles brought from home are a source of danger, since the animals are not used to them. Except at busy hay seasons horses can usually be obtained of the peasants with a little trouble, and if not, ther e is seldom difficulty in pro¬ curing men or women (the latter quite as serviceable) to convey the baggage; these will car ry for cer¬ tain distances of a few hours as much as 5 o lbs. in the conical-shaped has- XXXIU GUIDES—INNS. XXXIV ket in common use for the back ; but this is not to be expected from a guide accompanying an active pe¬ destrian ; 20 lbs. is then quite suffi¬ cient. ^ k. Guides.—T he professional is as yet very little known even in Tyrol, always excepting the few noted bathing-places. Still every village on application to the innkeeper will supply some one sufficient for ordinary purposes at a rate from i| fl. to 2 fl., or from 4 to 5 fr. on the Italian side, per day (the smaller sum and a supper is the best plan). For the greater expeditions, though chamois-hunters, jagers, or guardie boschi (foresters), are generally to be met with who know the ground, yet these seldom show the efficiency, especially on ice, of the first-rate Swiss guides, by whom indeed even in Tyrol several explorers have found it better to be accompanied. On the Italian side an easy Irish way of lying according to the supposed wishes cf the traveller is be guarded against, but the Italian is almost always good-tempered. The chaise- d-porteur for the use of ladies is seldom met with.* I. Inhs.—T he country fnns for all the German portion of the Eastern Alps m Tyrol, Salzburg, Styria, Ca- rinthia, Carniola, are as a rule much to be commended for cleanliness, good homely fiire, cheapness, and kindly, cheerful manners on the part of the people. The kellnerin^ or female waiter, distinguished by a large bunch of keys at her side, will by most travellers be much preferred to any “ gar9on ” or kellner of the hotels. In Italian Tyrol good coun- I try inns cannot be so relied on as a thing of course; they may prove quite the reverse ; still little anxiety need be felt on this score: the in¬ habitants know the difference be¬ tween a good and a bad inn, and will direct the inquirer where clean beds, if not clean floors, may be expected. 1 here is sometimes a deficiency of meat on the Italian side, but good bread and good cofiee are almost universal. Somewhat higher charges than in the German provinces must be looked for, and occasional extor¬ tion will have to be resisted. Coffee on the German side is frequently adulterated with chicory; tea is unknown, except in hotels on the great routes, or as pure green tea from Trieste, kept in small quantity. In Tyi-ol country districts, supper, hed, and breakfast may be had for from 2s. ()d. to 3s. per head ; and the price of a good bedroom with a couple of beds ranges from 70 or 80 kr. to I fl. Styria is more costly; Carinthia cheaper, but will probably not remain so; Carniola, though cheap in the country, is dear in the towns. On the Italian side, rooms are rather dearer, but living is gene¬ rally cheap ; beer is everywhere be¬ coming common; wine, except in special districts, is acid enough, the red sorts the least so. Hotel prices and ways are of course the same nearly all over Europe. On both sides of the Alps and in the remotest spots Bath Establishments will be found where least expected, and will prove a resource, though the living and accommodation are often very primitive, and in certain months the crowd, whether of Italians or Ger¬ mans, is great. The small inn is often more comfortable, A'pSrht'Sn orgSnfalysSL GENERAL HiNTS.-The&asTO of guides and tariffs at the principal travelling may be said to extend centres of resort. | from the middle of May to the middle of Kp, Tyr. & A Ips. 5 XXXV GENERAL INFORMATION. xxxvi October. In May the flowers and fresh verdure are charming, but snow is not sufficiently gone from the heights. In June, weather is often broken. July, from its long days, is most favourable for expeditions. In August the mountain places of resort are most crowded. The first half oiSeptember affords the most continuous spell of fine clear weatlier. At the latter end of the mouth or beginning of October heavy rain may fall for a week or lo days together, especially on the Italian side; and Friuli, S. of the Carnic chain, has at this time the heaviest rainfall in Europe. Languages. —German will suffice for nearly the whole of the districts included in this volume ; French will prove of little service. In S. Tyrol, or it might be said all below a line drawn E. and W. through Botzen, Italian will be found to prevail: away from the great routes it will fre¬ quently be difficult to meet with anything else. In Carinthia and Car- niola certain districts are Sclavonic; but in most of their villages some men who have served in the Austrian army will be able to speak a little German. , Clothing and Accoutrement. — Light woollen suits are the best, and, for protection against wet or cold, light woollen cloaks or plaids. A Leghorn or Panama straw hat will serve alike for mountains and towns. An umbrella is often of as much use for heat as for rain. A knapsack is the handiest kind of baggage for a lightly-equipped traveller, whether he carries it himself or not; it should contain, besides a couple of spare woollen shirts and a sufficiency of socks, an alpaca coat and thin waist¬ coat and trowsers, so as to afford an entire change after the day’s walking, with its chances of a soaking. Thin woollen drawers are very useful to put on when evenings become chill, or the mountain air is keen. Stout shoes or half-boots easy for the toes, without iron heels (which slip), but with strong nails, useful on grass, are best for the feet. Slippers are indis¬ pensable. A \QaXh&x portmanteau, forwarded from point to point by diligence or train, may be used as a depot; but a better plan, even when ladies are of the party, is to confine the baggage to under 50 lbs. weight each person, and to use strong and roomy leather bags, with sacking covers to protect from dust. These can easily be packed on the backs of men, horses, or donkeys, and accompany the tourists over any of the ordinary mountain paths. For such a party one or more small tin teapots will be of the greatest service, as the only means of making ready use of the small stock of tea which is among the requisites for travelling in the remote districts. A small etna also is useful. n. Health generally takes care of itself among the mountains; but a few simple medicines, adapted to check diarrhoea or avert feverish at¬ tacks, should be provided. Over¬ exertion in the early stages of a tour is very common, but should be strenuously guarded against, espe¬ cially in the case of ladies, who, though capable of doing a good deal of wholesome walking under careful management, frequently do them¬ selves irreparable damage by want of care. They should never attempt anything like an expedition till they have become well accustomed to foot- exercise and have thoroughly tested their powers. The precaution should always be observed of avoiding sleeping in marshy valleys (especially near the embouchure of rivers), in the neigh¬ bourhood of rice-fields, or of hemp- steeping pits. A slight altitude is, xxxvii maf8~alpine vocabulary. however, generally sufficient to secure safety. iJiere is little fear of personal violence ^ in any of the districts de- scribed in this volume. As ageneral lule mountain peasantry are perfectly leliable ; in German Tyrol and the pure Austrian provinces they are eminently so. In Carinthia and Car- niola, where the Sclavonic element pi-evails, the population is of a some¬ what gloomy and sometimes of a rather coarse disposition ; and near the new Italian frontier there is oc¬ casional insecurity from the incursions of “ mauvais sujets” from the Italian exceptional, and the Austrian police is everywhere excellent. Avoid trampling growino- crops of gi'ass and intrusion upon vineyards; carry no firearms, deal fi-ankly and simply with all you meet, but Without unnecessarily joining company, betraying intentions, or displaying money, and there is little to tear anywhere. xxxviii „ MAPS.-Those of the Austrkn Ordnance Survey will serve for all we mountain districts except Venetia. they are admirably accurate and clear, are sold in sheets and quarters, and can be obtained at Stanford’s, Charing Cross. Mayr’s great map of the whole Alpine range {Atlas der Alpenlander), in 9 sheets, completed in 1863, of which Nos. 2, 3 c 5 aply to our region, is also excellent’ though incorrect in a lew localities, this also can be obtained in sheets and mounted to suit the traveller’s convenience. Wdrrs maps will serve for Tyrol and Salzburg; they are well detailed and cheap: 10 of the sheets cover the above districts. Price IS. ()d. per sheet. ll^^v^sKarteyon Tyrol, including much of the adjoining countries, is a very handy map, though not so recent as the others. J\layr has also pub¬ lished a map of the Bavarian High¬ lands, with N. frontier of Tvrol of convenient size. Separate maps’ of the Salzkammergut can be easily obtained on the spot, as also a con¬ venient one for Carinthia, by J. J. Pauliny, pub. at Vienna. Maps Illustrating the scenery of the great lines of railway are also to be met with. For Venetia Mayr’s Alpenlander maps will serve the ordinary tourist, ror purposes requiring greater ac¬ curacy the Austrian Government Survey of that kingdom,* pub. in 24 large sheets, 6s. per sheet (Vienna') can alone be relied on. ' All the maps named can be ob- Sosf Stanford’s, 6, Charing Alpine Vocabulary. Ach, brook or torrent. Alp, or Aim, rarely, if ever, means the mountain itself, but the pastures upon its sides, covered by the snow tor a greater part of the year, and giadually laid bare as far as the extieme verge of vegetation as the season advances. Bach, brook (the beck of the N of England). Berg, mountain. Burg, castle. Biichel or Buhel, knoll or swelling rise. ° Croda (Ital.), a mass of rocky pin¬ nacles. Ferner, glacier (Swiss Gletscher, Styrian Kees). Geroll, a long steep slope of de'bris. Horn, the sharp peak of a moun¬ tain, so called from its resemblance to the horn of an animal. Joch ^ (French Col. ; in Styria and Carinthia, Tauerri), a depression in a * ‘Topographische Karte des Lom- bardisch- Venetianischen Kiinigreiches.’ r xxxix GENEBAL INFOBMATION. xl mountain-ridge, affording a conve¬ nient passage for a path or road. Kessel (Icettle), a deep circular valley shut in by hills. Klamm, a cleft in the moun¬ tains, a ravine through which a river drains off. Klause, a defile, a narrow pass, a gorge. Kogel, Kofel, Eopf, the cone-like or sugrarloaf summit of a mountain. Loch, hole or cavern, or gorge in the mountain. Malga (Ital.), herd station on the high pastures. Riicken, a ridge, a range of hills. Sasso (Ital,), a mountain composed of a single block. Scharte, a notch, or small de¬ pression in a rocky ridge. Schrofen, precipices. See, lake. Spitze, aiguille, point, mountain- peak. Spitz, masc., sometimes used. Stock, a vast mountain mass. Tauern, mountain ridges; hill roads or paths, in opposition to valley roads. It signifies in Tyrol and Salzburg the neck or saddle-shaped depression over which a road passes. Thai, valley. Thor, the highest part of a high pass. Thorl, the highest part of a lower pass. Tohel, a I'avine. Vrh, pronounced somewhat like Werch, Slovenic for Berg, Wald, forest. Wand, wall, precipice. KNAPSACK GUIDE FOR TYKOL AND THE EASTERN ALPS SECTION I. ALPS OP BAVAEIA. ✓ INTRODUCTOEY INFORMATION, Physical Charaeteristks of Bavaria.—The Plain.-The smcessire Mountain Manges. — Rivers. — Lakes. — Fishing. — Beer. — Pass¬ ports.— Money.—Miles.—Posting Roads.—Mailroads—Maps. ROUTE 176 Augsbui’jy to Lindau, on Lake of Constance, by Kempten (Rail) 176A Lindau to Innsbruck, by Immenstadt and Peutte. 177 Augsburg to Innsbruck, by Fiissen .... 185 Alunicb to Salzburg, by Rosenheim and the Chiem See (Rail) . 185 A Munich to Bercbtes- gaden ' and Salzburg, by Traunstein and Reichenhall r86 Munich to Innsbruck, COL. 10 13 18 21 ROUTE by Lake of Starnherg and Partenkirclien. 187 Munich to Innsbruck, by Benedictbeuern and Lakes of Kochel and Walchen .... 188 Munich to Innsbruck, by Tegern See, Baths of Kreuth, and the Achen See .... 18 8a Alunich to Innsbruck, by Miesbach, the Schlier See, and Kufstein . 188b Munich to Innsbruck (Rail), by Rosenheim and Kufstein . COL. 24 28 30 35 38 Sketch of Bavaria. Only the Alpine region of Ba- , varia is here described, and the t routes are. such only as form con- i venient aiiproaches to Tyrol or I Salzburg. I Kp. Tyr. & Alps. Tlie* greater portion of Bavaria is a vast plain, but rising in three successive stages from the Danube on the N. to the mountain-ranges on the S. Munich occupies the middle stage or zone, and the general form of the plain is that B 3 BAVABTA: INTBOBUCTOBY INFOBMATION. 4 of a convex, curved surface, sloping towards botli N. and E. Tlie mountain district into which it merges rises also in successive steps, and is composed of 4 dis¬ tinct ridges, stretching in pa¬ rallel lines from S. of W. to N, of E. The most northern of these, forming the first step from the plain, may he termed Alpestrine rather than Alpine; the ridges behind it rising in altitude cul¬ minate in the 4th and most southern, only a portion of which actually belongs to Bavaria. Of this last ridge the higliest peaks are the Biherhopf, 8548 ft. on the W. above Sontliofen, valley of tlie Ill; the Zug Spitze, 9716 ft. (or 10,025 ft.), near Partenkirchen, in the middle section; and the Watz- mann, 8996 ft,, near Berchtes- gaden, on the E. The peaks of the 3rd ridge all run below 7000 ft., and those of the 2nd under 6000 ft. Five rivers flow through breaks in these ridges from the S.; naming them from W. to E., they are the Iller, the Lech, the Isar, the Inn, and the Salzach. The whole of this mountain region is remarkably picturesque. The lower ranges are composed of richly-wooded hills; and verdant pastoral valleys penetrate deep into the chain. But the great charm consists in the numerous beautiful lakes, varying in character from the .simply pleasing to the sublime. Those in the plain, such as the Ammer See, Wurm See, and Chiem See, are of considerable size, and are dignifled by a dis¬ tant view of the hills. Those in the mountains, of which the Kochel See, Walchen See, Te- gern See, and the superb Konigs See are the principal, can scarcely be exceeded in picturesque effect. They and their streams all abound in fish, and anglers may easily obtain admission to their waters on condition of purchasing or returning to the owner’s tanks the fish they catch. Bavarian Beer is sufficient!}^ celebrated, and will be every¬ where met with of various degrees of excellence. It is very light, and always cool. A halbe, equal to 11 pint, is the usual quantity set before the traveller, in a glass jug with a lid. Passports are abolished in Ba¬ varia, but it is better to be pro¬ vided with one, though a visa is unnecessary. Money is the silver florin, worth IS. 8fl., and the kreutzer, 60 to a florin, in pieces of i, 3, 6, 12, and 24 kreutzers. Prus¬ sian coins, however, will pass. Thalers = 2 11 . 42 kr. are common, also a Bavarian thaler = 2 fl. 24 kr., and the Austrian or Verein thaler = i fl. 48 kr., or 3 shillings. The Bavarian mile is equal to 4 m. 4 fur. 192 yards Eng., or 4*609, say 4|. 2 sfunden, or hours, are reckoned to the Bav. mile. There are no turnpihes in Bavaria. Posting is very slow, i German mile per | stunde, in¬ cluding stoppages. Charge for each horse per post i 11. 15 kr. to I fl. 45 kr. Travellers usually give I fl. per post to postilion driving 2 horses, though his legal demand is not much more than half. Boads are not good. Bailroads are more numerous in the northern than southern por¬ tion. One long line intersects the country, from tJlm on the W. fron¬ tier, through Augsburg and Mu¬ nich, to Salzburg on the E.; from this 4 lines diverge S., and are avail¬ able more or less for penetrating the mountains,—ist, from Augs- me. 11Q.—AUGSBURG to LINDAU. G burg to Liiidau, ou Lake of Oon- stauce, Rtes. 176 and 177; 2nd, from Pasing, near Munich, to Lake of Starnberg, Rte. r86 ; 3rd, from Holzkirchen to Miesbach, for the Schliersee, Ete. i88a; 4tb, from Rosenheim to Kufstein, and so to Innsbruck, Rte. 189. By each of these the traveller can be put on his way to Innsbruck. No luggage is allowed tree on any of the railways. Maps. —Mayr’s map of Tyrol will serve also for the Bavarian mountains. G. Franz’s map of German Tyrol and S. Bavaria is excellent, and costs only i fl. 20 kr. in Munich, KOUTES. Rte; 176. — AUGSBURG to LINDAU, on the LAKE of CONSTANCE (Raid), AUGSBUltG to ENG. M. Biessenhofen 41 Kempteu . 2Ji linmenstadt. 14 ENG. M. Lindau . . 43I I22i famous as the scene of the great defeat of the Magyars by Emp. Otho I. in 955. Grossaitigen Stat. ^ Site of4| the battle was E. and a-little S. of this. Schwabiniinchen Stat. A ma- 2} m nufacturing vill. Remains of a Roman bridge over the Wertach. 5 trains daily; the quickest in 5 lirs., others In 12 hrs. This line will put the traveller upon an interesting route to Inns¬ bruck, leaving it at Biessenhofen Stat., Rte. 177; or, enable him to penetrate the Algau Alps from Immenstadt, whence he can ascend the Ill and cross over into the Bregenzer Wald and Tyrol, Rtes. 176 A and 212 a; or, con¬ tinuing his course to Lindau, ho can thence enter Tyrol by the Vorarlberg, Rtes. 212 and 212 a. Leaving Augsburg, the line has the Lech on 1 . (E.), and the stream of the Wertach and old post-road on rt. (W.) 4 | m. Inningen Stat. 2 ^m. Bobingen Stat. The bare plain on the 1 . is the Lechfeld, stretching S. for many miles, and Westererringen Stat. 31 m Buchloe Stat. Small town on 7 m. the Gennach, a stream flowing into the Wertach. Pforzen Stat. 8| m Kaufbeuern Stat. (In?t: Sonne). 4 | m An old Imperial free town, 4000 Inhab., situate on the Wertaeh. Here the Bavarian Alps begin to be visible S. Best view of them from remains of a Roman tower, the Groskemnath. Biessenhofen Stat. The line 3 } m here turns W., leaving the valley of the Wertach, and ascends the Kirnachthal to cross the high ground between the Wertach and tlie Iller. [From Biessenhofen, dil. every day to Fiissen, on the route to Innsbruck, ' Rte. 177.] B 2 7 Bte. IIQ.—AVGSBVBG to LINDAU. 8 4 3 ^ m. Euderatshofen Stat. 5 Jm. Aitrang Stat. Eail enters a deep cutting. Om. Giinzach Stat., highest point on the line. To rt. is a large building, now brewery and en¬ gine factory, once a convent. (Ober-Glinzbcrg, N. Lin, Stern, supposed to be the Eoman Gun- tia.) Eail now turns S. through dreary scenery. 6 m. Wildpolzried Stat. m. Bezigau Stat. Line now de¬ scends into valley of the Ill, crosses the post-road between Keinpten and Fiissen, and the river Ill by a fine bridge to 2im. Kempten. (Inns: Krone, in the New Town, best; Baierischer Hof; Griiner Bauni\ Campodu- num of the Eomans (remains of entrenched camp), consists now of Old Town, Eeichstadt, Pro¬ testant, and once Imperial; and New Tovm, Stiftstadt, upon a hill, Eoman Catholic, and for¬ merly belonging to the Abbot of Kempten, a Prince of the Em¬ pire : his palace is now public offices. The Mariaberg, W., ofters a fine view. The line now takes a direct S. course, a.scending the valley of the Iller. If m. ‘Waltenhofen Stat. Presently a lake, the Nieder Sonthofensee, is seen on the rt., with the ruins of a castle. m. Oberdorf Stat. Valley be¬ comes more picturesque; the fine Algau Alps at its head. The line suddenly turns W. to 7m. Immenstadt Stat. (Inn: Kreuz, indifferent; restaurant at stat.) Pleasantly situated town at junction of the Ache with the Iller. Several factories in the neighbourhood. (Opposite, across the valley, is the Grunten, a sort of Bavarian Eigi, with an inn on the top. [For the upper valley of the Iller and scenery of the Algau Alps, see Etes. 176A and 2I2A.] Eailway now makes a sudden turn N.W. to skirt the N. shore of the beautiful Alpsee (2377 ft.), best seen from the other side. Eail bearing W. ascends the Konstanzer Thai, with the Ochsen Berg to the N. and the Eind- alpen Horn S., and is carried over a viaduct, 180 ft. high, and long embankment to \ Oberstaufen Stat. Vill. with lOf m. an old castle above it. [A road here goes S. by Staufen and then down the Weissach Thai, which leads into the Bregenzer Wald. Ete. 212 A.] Turning now N. the line is carried through a short Tunnel, which marks the water¬ shed between the basins of the Danube and the Ehine. Issuing from it there is an interesting view backward over the Weissach Thai, with the Swiss Alps in the distance. A very deep cutting succeeds before reaching Harbatzhofen Stat., when the If m. line again bears W., but with a very sinuous course, soon crossing a remarkable Viaduct of timber, and then along a vast emhanlcment to ^ Eothenbach Stat. Keeping a 3 | nil 0 Me. 17G a.~LINBAU to INNSBRUCK 10 pretty direct course for some dis¬ tance, the rly. makes a violent bend E., N., and then W. to reach i the north bank of the Leiblach and I i 11| m. Hergatz Stat., where are great ^ stores of peat. Descending now S. the Swiss and Vorarlberg Alps open to view, and in par- I ticular the Sentis attracts atten¬ tion. The bare country is suc¬ ceeded by one more fruitful, and I Him. Schlacters Stat. is surrounded by orchards. The line here again winds considerably before reach¬ ing Oberreitnau Stat. The country becomes very rich, the hillsides covered with vines, and upon I emerging from a deep cutting a charming view is obtained over the lake of Constance, backed by mountains. The line is eventually carried along a low stone cause¬ way in the lake into 9pn. Lindau Stat. (Inns: Baieris- cher Hof, close to port and rly., large and good; Krone.) An ancient town, dating even from Eoman times, once an Imperial free city, delightful in situation, which is well seen from a walk constructed along the lake side and partly on the old ramparts. Tlie Hddenthurm is a stump of a tower, probably as old as 4th centy, if not Roman of the time of Tiberius, who started hence to invade the Rhceti. The tea-gar¬ dens of the Schlacten Bad f hr. walk "VV. on shore of lake, and the Lindenhof on the hill above them offer delicious views. The ' latter is a private house, but its gardens are open on Sun¬ days, &c. [Steamers for all parts of the lake call at Lindau. Eorschach is the stat. for the Upper Rhine and the Spliigen; Romans- horn for Zurich and Paris; Bregenz for the Vorarlberg (Rte. 212) is only 20 min. by steamer; 7 m. by road.] Rte. 176 A.—LINDAU, on LAKE cf CONSTANCE, to INNSBEUCK, by IMMEN- STADT. LINDAU to ENG. M. HK.S. Immenstadt (Rail). 43! . j Reutte . . . ,32 Innsbruck . . .58 iJli To Lindau there are frequent steamers on the lake from Bomanshorn (the ter¬ minus of the rail from Zurich), by which it is brought into direct communication with Paris. From Lindau there are 5 trains daily to Augsburg passing Immen¬ stadt Stat. (take the earliest). From Immenstadt a carriage can be hired for the cross-country road to Reutte. Good road, and charming scenery. From Reutte it is a post-road to Innsbruck. This is a very pleasant and not much travelled route to Inns¬ bruck, which can be reached in 4 days from Paris—to landau 2 ; Reutte I; Innsbruck (posting) i. Lindau (Inns: Baierischer Hof, large and convenient; Krone). 11 Rte. llQk.—LINDAV to INNSBRUCK. 12 See Rte. 176 for details of rly. to 43 f m. Immenstadt (Inn: Kreuz ; none good). The town, a few min. from stat., is very prettily situated in the valley of the Iller, among abrupt and picturesque lilts.—the Alps of Algau. (Vehicles can be hired at the Kreuz.or omnibus from stat. can he taken to Sont- hofcn.) A good road leads tlirough a beautiful pastoral district, the valley of the Iller, towards a fine range of mts. on its E. side, the foot of which it readies at 5 m. Sonthofen (Inn: Hirsch,good). [In coming from Immenstadt the principal mountain across the plain on 1 . is the Griinten. This Bavarian Rigi^ is famed for its View. Inn at the top. Ascent is made from Sonthofen, 6 hrs. up and down."] [The valley of the Iller may be ascended by 3 roads. The ist turns off at Segfriedsberg, be¬ tween Immenstadt and Sontho¬ fen, and striking tor the foot of the hills W. and passing through Ofterschwang, Polsterlang, and other villages, reaches near Ober- maiselstein, some curious rocks, termed Hirschensprung. The 2nd, starting from the same point, keeps to the 1 . bank of the Iller. The 3rd, the principal route, as¬ cends the rt. bank from Sontho¬ fen, joins the 2nd in about 7 111., and leads to Oherstdorf, a popular watering-place, with ruins of an old castle. The valley here splits into 3. That to W. is the Klein 'Walser Thai, through which the Iller flows. Most of it belongs to Austria. A road ascends it to Bad, 12 m., and a path leads over into the Bregenzer Wald, Rte. 212 A. That to S., the Rappen- alpen Thai, penetrates among the noblest of the Algau Alps,—the Gaishorn, Widderstein,and Biber- kopf. That to S.E., tlie Trettach Thai, terminates in the Madeler Gabel and the Trettach Spitz. The Oythal, E. from Oherstdorf, has picturesque waterfalls.] ) Among green meadows the road i3asses to Hindelang (Inn: Adler, small, 4 m. but ])articularly clean and com¬ fortable) ; hence Vorspann is gene¬ rally required. The road now leaves the valley (which turns S.) and makes a long Ascsnt of the Vorder and Ilinter Joch, at last of which it crosses i Frontier between Bavaria and Tyrol, and descends abruptly upon Schattwald, where is the 5 m. Austrian Custom-house. Village of Tannheim succeeds, and the shattered picturesque peaks of the Schafsehrofen appear in front, at foot of which and beside a small lake— Haldensee—the road passes 6 m, to Nesselwang, where it turns S. | into a deep gorge and presently enters the romantic Pass Racht, where it is carried down the side of a precipitous, narrow, and richly-wooded ravine, the limestone walls of which rise with great grandeur on either hand. It enters at right angles into the Valley of the Lech. Fine? m. 13 rde. in.—AUGSBUBG to INNSBRUCK 14 mountain forms appear at its head. [See Ete. 212 a for this interesting district.] The rd, turns in the opposite direction, .following the course of the pale blue stream. Schloss Ehrenherg is seen perched on a rock opposite, and the rd. crosses the river to 5m. Reutte (Inn: Post, good). A beautifully-situated town, in a small mountain-girdled plain. [Fiissen is 92 m. N. of this, and Hohen Schwangau forms a delightful excursion. See Ete. 177.] From Eeutte it is a post-road, described Ete. 17 7, to 58 m. Innsbruck. Ete. 212, Rte. 177. — AUGSBURG to INNSBRUCK, by FUSSEN. AUGSBURG (Rl.) to EXG. M, Biessenhofen Stat. . . 41 Fiissen . . 24 ENG. M, Nassereit. . 32 Innsbruck . 34^ I3ii Biessenhofen is the nearest stat. to Fussen on the Augsburg and Lindau Illy. Thence is a daily diligence to Fiissen, 4 hrs., and on to Hohen Schwan¬ gau, 4 m. further. From Fussen it is a good post-road, traversed by a daily dil. to Innsbruck. There is a rly. rte. the whole distance to Innsbruck, butmaldng a considerable circuit by way of Munich, Eosenheim (where it leaves the Salzburg line), and the Valley of Inn. For those who can spare an extra day or two it is far pleasanter to cross the Bavarian Alps by one of the several rtes. which follow. This from Augsburg is as interesting as any. From Augsburg the railway keeps at a distance of from 5 to 10 m. W. of the Lech ; between the two lies The Lecbfeld, 1 ., where Otho 1.14 m defeated the Magyars in 955. Biessenhofen Stat. for Schon -27 m gau and Fussen (diligence to Fussen meets the early tram). Fussen (Inn: Post.). A small 24 m town, 1600 inhab. beautifully situated on the Lech, at the foot of the Alps, and near the “ Jaws,'" of a narrow defile (Fauces Julise, whence name). Castle of Bishops’ of Augsburg, built 1322, now a prison, on : height above. The most remarkable building is the sequestrated Ahhey of St. Magnus, the apostle of this district, who founded the abbey 746 a.d. Much traffic with Tyrol through the town, which has also been the scene of repeated military con¬ tests down to 1800. Best View is from the Calva- rienberg, 2 hr’s. walk on rt. bank of Lech, a little above the bridge ; it may be taken on way to Hohen- schwangau. [Holienschwangau, 4 m., is a toy castle, built by King Max. of Bavaria, on site of an old castle destroyed in 1809. It covers a lofty pedestal rock rising in front of a mountain, clad with black fir. The View from the terrace, 15 llte. \ll.~AUGSBVRa to INNSBRUCK. 16 reached by long flights of steps, is very fine. The interior is elabo¬ rately painted in fresco by artists of the Munich school. Tliere is an Inn at the foot of the rock. Interesting ivalJc up the gorge of the Pollat to the Marienbriicke, ■ and higher still to the Jugend, a platform in the wood with a most extensive view. See HandhooJc for S, Germany, Ete. 177. Pedestrians bound for Eeutte need not return to Fussen, but follow the King’s Road, closed to carriages, which passes along the side of the Alpsee, a small lake. At the Austrian Douane a path leads 1. to a road, which pre¬ sently ascends the Kniepass, a grand and picturesque defile, for¬ merly defended by what is now a ruin. At Pfiach it falls into tlie high rd. from Fiissen.] From Fussen the rd. crosses the river, and near the Bavarian Custom-house passes close to ^ m. A fine fall of the Lech. 1 m. The Austrian Custom-house. After passing the point where the Vils joins tlie Lech from the W., the road— grand mountains. The peaks on the W. are those of the Scliafs- clirofen, see Ete. 176 a. Conspi¬ cuous to S. is the rock crowned by the Castle of Ehrenberg. [2 m. E. is the fall of Stduhi, 90 ft. high, easily reached. The Ache which forms it flows out of two small lakes— Plansee and Ileiterwangsee, ij m. distant, very striking in their scenery.] [W. a rd. crosses the Lech, and in about 6 m. ascends Pass Gaclit, a magnificent gorge, and crosses country to Immenstadt. See Ete. 176 a.] The scenery now for some ms. is extremely fine. Leaving the valley of the Lech, the rd. as¬ cends the Ehrenburger Klaus 3, formerly commanded by the castle of Eh¬ renberg, on the wooded rock to the rt., stormed by troops of Prince Maurice on his memorable march to seize Charles V. at Inns¬ bruck, 1552; demolished by the French after surrender in 1800. Ed. winds upwards, and turns 1., to reach summit of the pass, and descends into a long valley at Heiterwang. A glimpse of 5 Heiterivangsee to 1. 2 m. Crosses the Lech to 1 . bank, which it follows through vill. of Musau, till it recrosses to the rt. bank by the 4 m. Bridge of Pfiach (where the rd. of the Kniepass comes in). A small plain succeeds, and pass¬ ing a little Gothic Iluttenhapelle, date 1515, we enter 2m. Eeutte (Inn: Post, good). A small town, delightfully situated in a valley basin, surrounded by Buchelbach succeeds. The 3 Gartnervjand rises W., and fine mountain forms appear in front beyond the small plain of Lermoos (Inn: Post, good), 6 3375 ft., stands in the basin of a former lake. Two noble moun¬ tains rise abruptly from the plain E. That to S. is the Mieminger Berg, belonging to the Wetter- steingebirge, a range extending a considerable distance along N. side of the Innthal. That lite. m.—MUNIGB: to SALZBUBG 18 17 to the N. is the Ziig Spitze (9716 ft.), on frontier of Bavaria, and noted among the Bavarian mts.; from Ehrwald, at foot o the Zug is a path over to the Eihsee, worth visiting. Ete. 186. [Ed. hence down valley of the Loisach to Parten 7 f«Vc 7 iew, 17m. Ete. 186.] Winding among singular hum mocks, and crossing the plain to foot of the Mieminger, the rd. now gradually ascends, passing two richly wooded lakes, to the m. Pass of Auf den Fern (small Inn), a high ridge (4093 ft.) divid¬ ing the waters flowing into the Lech from those descending to the Inn. From the summit the rd. turns abruptly E., and swings down the sides of a vast wooded hollow, with two small lakes at the bot¬ tom. Castle of Sigmundsberg seen below. A Gateway Tower, Fernstein, spans the road, once strong enough to delay Mam-ice of Saxony a day and a half. {Inn: Zum Fernstein, close to the Tower, good). Sigmundsberg stands on a wooded islet in one of the lakes. 4m. Nassereit {Inn: Post, fair). Considerable village. [From this point the valley (Gurglthal) and a rd. descend S.W., and reach the great Inn Valley at Imst, 9 m. See Ete. 212.] Our road crossing the valley makes a long and steep ascent E. to reach the uplands at foot of Mieminger Berg, crossing thence diagonally into the valley of the Inn. On the plateau noble views occur of the snowy Oetzthal mts. to the S. Near 8|m. Barwies the donjon keep of Castle of Klam is seen to rt., breaking the vista of a lateral glen Ober Mieming. {Inn: Post, 1 m. ood.) Telfs. Ed. reaches banks of? m. the Inn, and joins the great rd. of the Innthal coming from Lan- deck. For remainder of rte. to Innsbruck, see Ete. 212. 18 m. For Btes. 178-184, not loitlmi the area of this work, see S. Germ. Ilandhh. Rte. 185 .—MUNICH to SALZ¬ BURG, by ROSENHEIM and the CHIEMSEE. • VIUNICH to I ENG. M. ENG. Jr. Salzburg . . 2 ji Rosenheim . 47^^ — Traunstein . ji 102 Rail the whole 'distance; 5 trains daily, in 43- to 6 hrs. Travellers bound for Eastern Tyrol, the Salzkammergut, Sty- ria, or Carinthia, had better make or Salzburg, whence several 30 st-roads into those districts diverge. The rail from Munich is not only the quickest but the pleasantest route, running for the 19 Ilte. 1S5.~MUNICH to SALZBURG, 20 4 most part within view of the great Alpine Range to the S., and at Salzburg bringing the traveller within its portals, and amidst scenery of supassing beauty. From Munich the Railway turns to the S., passing on the 1 . the colossal statue of Bavaria. Gin. At Grosshesselohe Stat. the Isar is crossed by an iron bridge; a S.B, direction is then followed, traversing between Diesenhofen and Sauerlach stats, an old Ro¬ man road. Kjiin. to Holzkirchen Stat. (Inn: Post). [Branch rail to Miesbach, 10 m.; for the Schliersee, 5 m. Rte 188 A. Also omnibuses to Tegernsee in 2 hrs., Rte. 188.] Turning sharp northwards for a short distance the rail reaches the Mangfall, and keeping on its 1 . bank, follows its course through a pretty valley in an easterly direc¬ tion, and passing tlie stats, oi Westerham, Bruckmulde, and Hen- feld to 17 f in. Aibling Stat. (Inns: Post; Duschlbrau) ancient town, with a castle on a height. It is resorted to for mud baths. Observe be¬ yond it 1 . a Gothic cross, erected to commemorate the parting of the Queen of Bavaria with her son Otho, on his first departure for Greece, 1833. The Wendelstein (6065 ft.) is seen S. 7 m. Rosenheim Junct. Stat. (Inns: Goldene Traube, clean; Alte Post, dirty.) Flourishing town, 2000 inhab., charmingly situated near junction of the Mangfall with the Inn. Extensive salt - works, brine brought in pipes 42 miles from Reichenliall. Exquisite I'leiw from the ScJdossgarten, E. of town. [Rly. to Innsbruck branches off S., ascending the valley of the lull. Rte. 189.] Our rail crosses the Inn, passes Stephanskircli stat, and skirts the Simsee, a small lake, before reaching Endorf Stat. (clean Inn), thenlOf m. sweeps S. to Prien Stat. (Inn: Kronprinz), 4 ^ m. 20 mm. walk from Stock on the Chiemsee. The largest lake in Bavaria, 12 m. long, 9 m. broad, flat on its northern shores, but ^ backed by grand mountains at ' some distance on its southern. . ' There are three islands, one still occupied by a nunnery, and with a clean Inn. Lake noted for fish (a steamer starts from Stock). Bernau Stat. succeeds, and then TTehersee Stat., about opposite 6 m. the middle of the lake. Bergen. 6 m. Traunstein Stat. (Iniis; Hirsch,3| m. very good; Post, ditto; both in " ' great square). 3000 inhab., in a '1 pretty situation overlooking the Traun (Bavarian). Salt-works; the brine as at Rosenheim, brought down from Reichenhall, 21 m. off. To the E. there now appear the Salzburg mts., Hohe Gull, and Untersherg. [Romantic road turns off here S. by Inzell for Reichenhall, &c., Rte. 185 a]. Traversing a wooded broken country, and passing Lau- ter Stat., the line reaches 5^1 185 h.—MUNICH to BEEGHTE8GABEN 22 llfm, Teisendorf Stat,, where the grand amiohitheatre of mts. about Salzburg begins to open S., the most remarkable being the Un- tersberg. 7 m. Freilassing is the last place in Bavaria (Custom-house). The Saalach descending from Beicbenball, and sej)arating Ba¬ varia from Austria, is here crossed, and then the Salzach, flowing from the distant Pinzgau, through the picturesque town of m. Salzburg (Passports required). {Inn: Nelboeck’s, very comfort¬ able, near the Stat. SeeKte. 195. Rte. 185 A. — MUNICH to BERCHTESGADEN and SALZ¬ BURG, by TRAUNSTEIN and REICHENHALL. MUNICH to EKG. M. Traunstein . 71 Reicheiihall . 26! 'EKG. M, Berclitesgaden 12 Salzburg . .15 I24i Rail (see Rte. 18 5) to Traunstein. Post¬ road thence; stellwagen to Keichenhall. By the detour of 2 or 3 days here described, travellers may visit the principal scenes which make the neighbourhood of Salz¬ burg so attractive, and resume the liy. route to Vienna at that city. From Traunstein the road ascends the 1 . banlt of the Traun Eiver to Siegsdorf. (For a pedestrian 4 m. hither is a shady path by the rt. bank of the river, i hr.) Two streams meet here, the Weisse Traun, W., and Rothe Traun, E. The rd. crosses the first, and ascends the 1. bank of the second (fine view from ch. of Maria Ech, S.W.). [The valley of the ‘Wliite Traun is named the Miesenbacli- tlial. At 2 hrs. distance is Ruh- polding, where the valley bifur¬ cates ; in branch to rt. flows the See Traun from two small lakes, whence the Tyrol frontier is soon reached. That to the 1. is named the FischbacMhal. At its head are two fine water¬ falls, and a path over to Unken, on Reichenhall road. See Rte. 229.] The Rothe, or Bavarian Traun, is lined by enormous stacks of fire-wood collected from weirs in the stream for use of the salt¬ pans. Inzell. {Inn: Post, fair.) Near 12 m this is the great reservoir for the brine pumped up from Reichen¬ hall, and the brine-pipes are seen carried high up the moun¬ tain’s side. From the Eauschberg, S.W. of Inzell, is a fine panorama. Beyond Inzell begins the aseent of a Pass of most romantic beauty, the Traun rushing in a cleft far out of sight below (fine backward view). The gorge, well wooded and walled in by grand and pre- 23 me. nG.~MUNICII to INNSBmCK 24 cipitous rocks, readies its height of grandeur at Mauthhausel, a solitary Inn on the descent, shortly beyond which the road falls into that between Innsbruck and Salzburg; and turning 1 . the Thumsee, a small lake, is passed, and the old castle Karlstein, before reach¬ ing 104 111- Reichenhall. (Inn: Post, "good.) See Kte. 229. Instead of proceeding hence direct to Salzburg, it is well worth while to make the detour by Berch- tesgaden, the loveliest spot in Bavaria. The rd. passes 1 . an Austrian castle (frontier here close at hand); ascends, through beautiful woods, the Hallthurm (salt tower) Pass (2224 ft.), named from the Gothic gateway which once closed the valley. It then skirts the base of the Untersberg on the 1 ., and de¬ scends, winding round to the 1. with exquisite views, to 12 m. Berchtesgaden. For this place, and the necessary excursion to the Konigssee (4 hrs. there and back), see Kte. 199. It is a charming drive to 15 m. Salzburg. Ete. 195. Rte. 186.— MUNICH to INNS¬ BRUCK, by LAKE of STAEN- BEEG and PARTENKIE- CHEN. MUNICH to ENG. M. Starnberg. . 15 Partenkirchen 45 Innsbruck eng. m. . 42! t I02i Trains in i hr. to Starnberg, by Augs¬ burg rail to Pasing Junct., and thence by a branch line. The rest is post and dili¬ gence road, unless the traveller prefers to take the steamer on lake and rejoin the road further on (see below). One of the most direct routes between Munich and Innsbruck, and, where it crosses the Alps, of great antiquity. Interesting and striking in scenery. Munich, by Augsburg line, which crosses the Wurm to Pasing Junction. Line, turn-qa m. ing S., ascends 1 . bank of the Wurm, chiefly through forests, to Starnberg (Imis all bad: 12 £m Post, dear; Bellevue), at N. end of lake of that name, called also Wurmsee. Lovely view. Starnberg See is about 16 m. long and 5 broad. Its low but picturesque shores, scattered over with villas, castles, and villages, and the grand outline of the Bavarian and Tyrolese Alps 2o Bte. ISQ.—MUNICH to INNSBRUCK, 26 stretching along the S. horizon, form a charming scene. „ 1:4 small steamer nins in i^- hr. to Seeshaupt, at the S. extremity (^Inn anc capital fish dinner), and thence a carriage may be hired for Mittenwald, m. on the Innsbruck road, taking the two beau¬ tiful lakes, the Kochelsee and Walchensee on the way. See Rte. 187. Stellwagen run also daily to the Kochel See, as also to Partenkirchen and Mittenwald.] From Starnberg the post-rd. leaves the lake on the 1., ascend¬ ing through park-like sceneiy the 9 m. Hirschberg. From summit, a little oif rd. to rt., is a fine view of the A mmersee, W. Tjm. Weilheim. [Inn: Post, toler¬ able). On the Ammer ; 3000 Inhab. (Post omnibus from this to Fiissen.) (Peisenberg, 3246 ft., a hill 6 m. S.W. from Weilheim, is worth as¬ cending for its panoramic view,) A pleasing country succeeds. The road passes between the lakes Riegsee E., and Staffelsee W., shortly before reaching 13 ni. Murnau [Inn: Post, clean.), large vill. on a hill in front of an ampliitheatre of mts. Feather ornaments made here. Ed. now reaches the Loisach, passes through a great marsh, and, keeping on 1. bank, ascends the Loisach Thai. The Wetter- stein and Zug Spitze seen in front. 10 m. Oberau. Gypsum quarries. [To the rt. a rd. branches otf into the Ammergau. It passes, after a steep ascent, 2 m., the sup¬ pressed convent of Ettal, founded by Emp. Lewis, now a brewery ; note church. Ober Ammergau, 2 m. further, in beautiful Vale of Ammer, is famous for the miracle-play performed by the peasants every 10 years. Last performance was in i860. See Handbook 8. Germany.^ Castle of Werdenfels is seen to rt. in approaching Partenkirchen [Inn: Post, 51 m. clean and comfortable), an ancient town [Parthenum) on the old trading rd. between Augsburg and Venice, not interesting in itself, but in a romantic situation among high mts. Good view in 10 min. from St. Anthony’s Chapel. Excursions. —(a) Ascent of Zng Spitze, S.W. (9716 ft.), highest mt. in Bavaria, standing on the fron¬ tier of Tyrol, is made from here : provisions required for 2 days. To the Knorrhiitte, at head of the Eainthal, 10 hrs., where sleep; thence, 3 hrs., to the summit : arrange it for sunrise. View is quite extraordinary for extent, including Mont &anc, Orteler Spitze, Dolomites of S. Tyrol, and mts. of Salzburg. [b.) The Alpspitze (8647 ft.)? lower, and nearer Partenkirchen, requires 8 or 9 hrs. Ascend by way of the Stuiben Alp, in the Eainthal, the latter full of fine scenery. (c.) The Eibsee, under the Zug Spitze, N., offers a fine view of it rising 6500 ft. from level of the lake. Car. road by Garmisch to Ober Grainau (a footpath short¬ ens distance). A path over a wooded ridge leads to the lake, which has several islands, and supports one family of fishermen; take the N. side for the view. [d.) The Hollthal opens near Garmisch, and is not inferior to the Eainthal. Go by way of hamlet of Hammersbach, and 27 Bte. m.—31VmCTI io INNSBBUCK. 28 obtain a guide. The track is steep and difficult along the Waxenstein side, and ends in j;he Asterfelder Alp. (e.) The Kainzenhad, 2 m. S. of Partenkirchen. Sulphureous springs much frequented. [A rd. branches off W. by Garmisch to Lermoos, ascending the Loisach, and working round the roots of the Zug Spitze.J Eoad makes a long stretch E. to reach 12 m. Mittenwald. {Inn: Post.) Old village situated upon the Isar, with curiously - painted houses ; 1700 Inhab., all busy in manufacture of violins (15 to 20 fl. apiece), guitars, &c. [Road from Walchen See and Kochel See, N., comes in here. Rte. 187.] Beyond this is only a “ Post Coiirier,” carrying two persons, The road now turns S, to as¬ cend the Pass, used by the Romans, and extensively in the middle ages. 5 m. Scharnitz {Scarhia of the Romans) is the first place in Tyrol. Fortress built against the Swedes in Thirty Years’ War. Taken, after desperate defence, by Ney in 1805, and demolished. [Isar issues from a valley to 7 m. Seefeld. {Inn ; Post.) Summit of Pass (3899 ft.); grand scenery. Bituminous slate-quarries in Rei¬ ter Joch, E.; rich in fish fossils. A steep, winding descent. Just before dropping into valley of the Inn is picturesque castle of Fra- genstein, hunting lodge of Emp. Max. Glorious views, including the Stubay glaciers, before reach¬ ing Zirl; hence to 9 Innsbruck. See Rte. 212. 9 Rte. 187.—MUNICH to INNS¬ BRUCK, by BENEDICTBEU- ERN and the LAKES of KO¬ CHEL and WALCHEN. MUNICH to EKG. M. Benedictbeuern j 6 Wallersee . . 14 Mittenwald . 14 ENG. ir, Innsbruck. . 97 Post-rd. No diligence, but stell- wagen to Benedictbeuern. This route, keeping a little to the E. of the previous one, and at length falling into it, “cannot be too highly praised.’' It owes its chief beauty to the two pictur¬ esque lakes by which it passes; a mode of connecting which with Rte. 186 has been already given. The first portion is flat and tame. From Munich the Starnberg post-road is followed to Sendling, where it diverges to the Isar, along the 1 . bank of which it runs, through 29 30 Rte. ISS.—MUNICH to INNSBRUCK. 10 m. Bayerbrunn, where are ruins of an old castle, and among forests in which Claude Lorrain studied, past Schaftlarn, once a convent, now a lodging-house, to 9 m. Wolfrathshausen {Inn: indif¬ ferent and dear), a pretty village at junction of the Loisach with the Isar (Lake of Starnberg 4 m. W.: see Ete. 186). The foot of the mts. is reached at 17 m. Benedictbeuern. {Inns: Lion, I m. before reaching it, good ; Post, ask for Renchen, a capital fish.) The wealthy and cele¬ brated monastery here, founded 740, was turned into a stud-house, j8i8. There is a glass-manufac- toiy, originally established by Frauenhofer, and stained-glsss for windows equal to those of 15 th centy. are manufactured by Mr, Franks. 4 m. Kochel {Inn, tolerable) vill. at foot of the Benedictwand, E,, as¬ cended from here; immense view over Bavaria. Close by is the Xochelsee, a picturesque lake, 3 m. long, shaped like a horse¬ shoe ; has been compared to Loch Katrine; abounds in fish. On opjDosite shore is priory of Schleedorf. Leaving the lake to rt., the road ascends the ridge of the Zesselberg, and immediately descends, with a fine view, uj)on the Walchensee, or Wallersee {Lacus Vallensis), 662 ft. higher than the Kochelsee, a romantic and very solitary scene, dark, un¬ broken forest clothing the wild nits, around. Capital fishing. The lienchen is the best fresh- Avater fish eaten. The rd. keeps W. shore to Wallersee village. {Inn: Post.iOm. good sleeping-place, clean but small.) Eoad leaves the lake at its S. corner, and still ascends till beyond Wallgau it again reaches the banks of the Isar, now a mt. tor¬ rent, and presently joins the preceding route just before reaching Mittenwald (see Ete. 186), 14 m. thence to Innsbruck. Ete, 212, 31 m. Rte. 188 .— MUNICH to INNS¬ BRUCK, by the TEGEENSEE, the BATHS of KREUTH, and the ACHENSEE. MUNICH to EKG. M, Holzkjrchen. 22I Tegernsee . 12 Baths of Kreuth 7 Achenthal vill. 14 EXG. Jr, Jenbach . .13 Innsbruck . 24 921 Rly. as far ns Holzkirchen, 14 hr. where a Voiturier will wait with car¬ riage, if arranged for at Munich, It is a post-road the whole distance, but not 31 Rte. US.-MUNICH to INNSBRUCK 32 many horses are kept at Achenthal. Rly. again at Jenbach, in valley of the Inn. Eilwagen daily in summer from Holzkirchen to Kreuth, by Tegernsee, m 4 hrs.; and in summer Stellwagen daily from Kreuth to Jenbach, whence rail to Innsbruck. A Voiturier/rom Innsbruck may reach Kreuth in i2 hrs, to sleep, and Holzkirchen the next morning in j or 4 hrs., but Achenthal would divide the distance better. Have it clearly under¬ stood whether he is to go on to Munich, or conclude his bargain at Holzkirchen; he will try to be paid for the one, and do the other. In beauty of scenery this route perhaps surpasses all between Munich and Innsbruck, and it is besides the shortest. From Munich the route is over the monotonous but well-culti¬ vated plains of Bavaria to 22 ^ m. Holzkirchen Stat. {Inns: Post; Oberer Brau—brewhouse). Tlie Bavarian Alps rising into view now increase in grandeur at every step. 9 m. Gmund {Inn: good), where the Mangfall flows out of the Tegernsee, a pleasant sheet of water, with grand scenery at its southern end. At a sort of coffee-house, shortly before reaching Kaltenbrunn, J hr. W. of Gmund, is one of the finest views of the lake. Bd. keeps along E. shore, passing the an¬ cient ch. of St. Quirinus, a son of the Emp. Philip, 8th centy., to 3 m. Tegernsee village {Lins: Post, good; Guggenmoos, both on the lake; lodging-houses). A village of some 90 houses, surrounding the Palace of Te¬ gernsee, formerly a rich Bene¬ dictine convent, possessing the remains of St. Quirinus, dating from 8th centy. It was governed by abbots for more than 1000 years, sequestrated in 1803, and converted into a royal summer residence; belongs now to Prince Chas. of Bavaria. View from the Parapluie, up the hill behind it, commands the whole lake. Walks in the neighbourhood very nume¬ rous : in the Rottaelithal, S.E., are 3 waterfalls, that of the Boden Alp the finest, hr. from Eott- ach, where is a good Inn. With this excursion can be combined the ascent of the Wallhurg (5778 ft.), from which the lake and its environs are fully displayed. Guide necessary. A good climber may proceed thence by the Wall- hurger Alp to the Setzberg, and over the Alp of that name to the Risserkogl (5971 ft.), and descend by the Ableithen and Scheyrer Alps into the Eangenauerthal. It is not only the highest peak of the district, ‘but offers the finest point of view : Munich is visible N., the snowy Central chain S. [E. of Tegernsee 8 m. is the smaller but still more beautiful SchUcTsee. Footpath thither di¬ rect over the low ridge of hills (Kreuzberg Alp,) hrs. Car¬ riage-road by Gmund and Mies- bach a long detour. On island in the midst is the Hunger-tower, with legend. Bte. 188 A.] Delightful road through a wooded valley, the Weisachthal, hemmed in more and more by mountains, to Kreuth {Inn: Dorf Kreuth, 7 good). [Further on, 2 m. and a little to 1 . of road are Kreuth Baths, now belonging to Prince Chas. of Bavaria. {Inn: Post; also the Rte. l^S.—MUNIGH to INN8BBVCK. 84 Bath-house, large, good, and reasonable—200 beds—taritf for everything, a resident physician and government director ; several lodging-houses). A fashionable watering-place, often frequented by the royal family and thronged June and July, beautifully situ¬ ated on a green upland lawn, 3000 ft. above the sea, and at foot of high forest-clad mountains. Water is medicinal, used both for drinking and bathing. The Molkenhur, an application of goat’s whey, and theKrduterJeur, relying on an infusion of herbs, are both considered efficacious remedies. Miles of footpaths. Excursions.~a. The Planberg, a ridge 3 m. long and often hardly 3 ft. wide, S. of Kreuth, offers an extremely fine 2^ctnoramic view over mts. of Tyrol and jrlains ot Bavaria. h. The Konigs or Kaltenhrunn Alj), S.W., and thence to the summit of the Schildemtein (6370 ft.), which commands the course of the Isar, and shows both the Tegern and Achen Lakes, and the Zillerthal snow-peaks. c. The Kaiser Klause, 10 m. distant, a huge timber sluice, now abandoned for one lower down, Rte. 188 A.] La Scolastica, by the Lake,’ ex¬ cellent trout) consists of scattered houses, extending ij m. in a cheertul Alpine landscape. (Boats for carriages as Avell as passen¬ gers may be hired here, but choose calm weather.) Achensee (3065 ft.), a dark2ni. blue romantic lake, 2488 ft. deep. Mountains ’often covered with snow surround it, and lofty precipices rise from its E. shore. The road passes at their foot, often on a mere shelf where the rock overhangs, and winding round many promontories. Snow peaks of the Zillerthal in view S. The Renclien of this lake the best. At Buchau, S. end of the lake, 6 m. some of the monks of Schwaz, to whom the fishing of the lake belongs, reside during summer. (Travellers the contrary way may hire boats here.) A very steep descent down a narrow defile leads to Jeiibach vill. and rly. stat.Sm. for Innsbruck. (J?nz: Bran, pretty fair. The rd. now bears W. and makes a continual gradual ascent, turning short round again at 8 m. Stuben, Bavarian Custom¬ house; at Kaiserswache is the Austrian ditto, at the head of the Achen Thai, here a narrow defile. 3 m. Achen Thai vill. {Inns: Post, near ch., of clean country sort; iip. Tyr. & Aljis. Horses kept to assist carriages going N. as far as the lake, or 2 hrs. ascent. Tariff, 2 horses Jenbach to Achenthal, 4 fl. io Bav.) View of the noble valley of the Inn here opens out; the rd. (from which that to the stat. turns off), descending to 1. bank of river, passes Castle of Tratzberg and Benedictine Convent of Vieclit, crossing at length by a wooden bridge to Schwaz {Inn: Post). SeeSni, Rte. 229 A. Volders, a little beyond this, 9 J m. c 36 35 ’ Rte. 188 k.~mNICH to INNSBRUCK. rd. crosses the river by a new stone bridge, passes through Hall, and crosses by a hand¬ some suspension bridge to 91m. Innsbruck. Etc. 212. Rte. 188 A. — MUNICH to INNSBRUCK, by MIESBACH, the SCHLIERSEE, and KUF- STEIN. MUNICH to ENG. M. Miesbacli (li.) 32^ Schliersee _ . 5 ENG. If. Kufstein . . 24.I Innsbruck (rl.) 42I 104! Branch rly. from Holzkirchen to Mies- bach; country road to Kufstein. Interesting chiefly to tliose wlio like wandering by unusual tracks ' through picturesque country; and aft'ording a cross cut into the Innsbruck and Salzburg road. Munich by Salzburg lino to 22 |m. Holzkirchen Junct., whence a branch line by Darching and Thalam, in the valley of the Mangfall, ascends its tributary the Scldierach, to 10 in. Miesbach (Inn: Post). Ch. has a picture of the school of Rubens, and a crucifix sculptured by Boos. The Castle of Wallen- , hurg, the Herzberg, and the Sta- delberg, otfer points of view. [Road W. to Gmund, on the Tegernsee.] Ascending the ; Schlierach, the Schliersee is reached (Inns: 5 111. Orterer’s; Zur Fischerliesel, ex¬ cellent as head-quarters). A small but very picturesque lake, the Lacus Silurnus of the Ro¬ mans, so called from its, at that time, containing abundance of the silurus or catfish: none now in the lake. Upon an islet is the Hunger-tower, wherein a knight, returning from the Holy Laud, starved to death his faithless wife. The ruins of the castle of Hohenwaldeck on the hills to the E. [Path over the Gindl Alp W. to Tegernsee, as also by the Kreuzberg, more to S.] Fischhausen village, at the S. end of lake. From this point 2 routes to the Inn Thai are open to the tra¬ veller : a. By a country road tiuning E. to Aurach, and then ascending 4 ni. the Leitzach Thai to J Baierisch Zell, a vill. in the 6 m. midst of mountain scenery and directly S. of the Wendlstem (6065 - ft.\ which can be ascended from this point, and commands a grand view over the Bavarian plain. Turning now S., the rd. ascends a low pass, crosses Frontier of Tyrol, and descends 5 m. * by MW 37 Bte. imB.—MUNICH to INNSBRUCK. RAIL. 38 1 m. Landl, into the Thiersee Thai, turning E., the stream of which joins the Inn at Kiefersfelcten, and marks there the/ro?zt/er. Our rd. after jiassing the small lake and village of 4 m. Thiersee, leaves the valley, turning S. round the base of the Pendling Berg, and descends to 4 ni. Zell, directly opposite Jm. Kufstein, a cross cut thence into the road to Salzburg, Bte. 229, or rail (Bte. 189), to m. Innsbruck. ’ h. By a mountam path turning S. a little before reaching Aurach up the Joseph’s Thai, where the tor¬ rent makes several cascades, and between the Nagl Spitz E., and the Breicheu Spitz W., to the 2 hrs. Spitzingsee, whose stream flows towards the Inn. Follow¬ ing this, which, after receiving a stream from the W., takes the name of the Achen, a narrow defile is reached, in which was formerly the famous 3 hrs. Kaiser Klause, an enomious dam or sluice for retaining timber logs in a sort of artificial lake till the spring floods allowed of their descent and the sluice-gates were opened—a sight of great interest. This is now abandoned; but, after passing the frontier of Tyrol immediately below there is at a distance of ihr. the E. H. Johann’s Klause, constructed by the Archduke of that name in 183 7, and where the same process may be observed. Near it are a chapel and house in the Italian style. Below tbi« the stream enters the Branden- berg Thai, and the rd. j^assing a valley on rt. (in which is Steih- 3 hrs., and a path to the Achen See. Bte. 188) reaches Brandenberg, the chief vill. 4 hrs. The track descends by vill. of Maria Thai, into valley of2 hrs. the Inn, and crosses to Brixlegg Stat., near town of ^ hr. Rattenherg. Bail to Innsbruck, Bte. 189. 24 m. Rte. 188 E (229 A in ‘S.Germ. Handbook — MUNICH to INNSBEUCK (Eail), by EO- SENHEIM, KUFSTEIN, ^ SCHWAZ, and HALL. MUNICH to ENG. M. Hosenheim . 471- Kufstein . .21 Jenbach (for ZillerThal) 2J| 2 trains daily, in 7 to 9 hrs., along the Munich and Salzburg line as far as Eo- senheim, thence diverging to ascend the valley of the Inn. This is the quickest route to Innsbruck, and after Bosenheim becomes very beautiful. c 2 eng. m. Innsbruck . 19 iiii 39 Rte. MUNICH to INNSBRUCK. RAIL. 40 Munich. See Ete. 185, to 47 ^m. Rosenheim Jimetion. {Inn: Goldene Traube, in town, to min.) Line erosses the Mang- fall, and then ascends the 1. bank of the Inn, uninteresting in its lower course. 34 m. Rauhling Stat. The walled town of Neubaiern is seen on rt. bank. Castle on hill above. 4 ^ ni. Erannenherg Stat. Entrance to the hills—pretty scenery, Castle of Count Palavicini, rt., overlooks the valley. [The WendeUtein, S.W. (6065 ft.), eommanding the plain, can be ascended from this in 4 hrs.; rather difficult.] Near Fischbach, ruined castles of Falkenstein and Kirnstein are seen in succession rt. 7 |m. Oberaudorf, 3Jm. Kiefersfelden, the last Bava¬ rian vill. In defile close to the frontier is a chapel erected in honour of his son Otho, by King Ludwig. At intervals the peaks of the dolomite Kaisergehirge are seen in the background on 1. 2 J m. Kufstein Stat. Change trains: passports wanted (?). Town and fortress on opposite (rt.) banli; of Inn. {Inns: Post; Hirsch.) Modern detached forts on both banks. The ancient stronghold, now a state prison, is on the top of a rock. In 1502 it was taken by Maximilian, who hanged the Bavarian commandant. It was the only place retained by the French after Hofer’s rising in 1809. View is fine, but entrance is no longer permitted. The Calvary, § m., offers a View of easy access. In a few miles the rly. crosses to rt. bank, near Kirchhiihl Stat., and soon reaches Wdrgl Stat {Inn: Post, an old91 house, but can give a good trout dinner). The IloheSalve (5 96 9ft.), easily accessible, affords a fine excursion for its view, one of the most striking in Tyrol. (For description see Ete. 299, [The post-road from Salzburg, Ete. 229, falls in here, and a new id. leads hence into the Pinzgau, Ete. 234.] Kundl Stat. On the post- 4 f road 1 . towards Eattenberg is the solitary chapel of St. Leonhard (date 1500), peculiar example of late Gothic. Curious S. door¬ way, pillars in the interior, pulpit, and stalls. Eattenberg. {Inn: Lederer- brau). A dirty tow, full of smelting-houses, and with no good Inn. 1000 Inhab. con¬ cerned in silver and copper- mines. An old castle above. Brixlegg Stat. {Inns: Juden-4| wirth; Ilerrenhaus) ; more mines and smelting-houses. [A jToint from which an excur¬ sion can be made S. into the Ziller Thai, but public vehicles run from next stat. Ete, 230.] Ely. crosses the river, and is carried through solid rock. On one side an old watch-tower. The most noble and romantic scenery succeeds hence to Inns¬ bruck. View in fine weather closes in the distance with the glaciers of the Stubay and Oetz- thal. To the 1 . are passed the pictm’csque inhabited castles of ate. ISSb.—MUNIGH to INNSBBUCK. BAIL. Akitzm, Lichtwer, and the ruins of Kropfsberg. Close to the last the Ziller falls into the Inn. Vieiv of the Ziller Thai Mts. at head of the valley. 4 fin. Jenhach Stat. (Bm: Bran), at mouth of Achenthal, up which runs the beautiful road to Munich by Kreuth (Ete. i88). [By a bridge across the river the vill. of Strass (Post, clean Inn), at the entrance of the Ziller Thai, is reached. This picturesque valley is described Ete. 230. Omnibus meets the afternoon trainj Near Jenbach, 1. bank of Inn, is the huge Chateau of Tratzberg. Opposite (rt. bank) is a Bene- dictine Convent on a height. A great tobacco manufactory is seen on approaching 4 | m. Schwaz Stat {Inn : Post). Tovm is on rt. bank. 4500 Pop. Celebrated in the 15 th centy. for its rich silver-mines. These are now exhausted, but several of iron and copper are still pro¬ ductive. Smelting and various manufactures occupy the popula¬ tion. Parish C/i., late Gothic, 1502, has a curiously ornamented W. front. Within are some bronze monuments, one by Colin of Mechlin. Town was burnt by the Bavarians with much atro¬ city in 1809. Near Schwaz, E., is ruined castle of Freundberg. 4 f m. Fritzeiis Stat. 4 £ra. Hall Stat. {Inns: Krone; Bar), 5000 Inhab.; ancient and smoky town. Eemarkable for its salt-mines and works. (Name derived from aXs, salt, which appears also in J/aZlein, Eeichen- haU, &c.) The Inn is navigable from this point. Munzthurm {Mint) is a con¬ spicuous Gothic tower. The Town Bouse is media3val, with a figure of Duke Otto. ■ Parish Ch. : has a Christ in wood by A. Diirer; and on outer wall, rt. of W. entrance, is a small monument to Spechbacher, the most skilful leader of the rising of 1809. He died in 1820. Several of his exploits were connected with Hall; three times he seized the bridge over the Inn, and once surprised and took the town, though strongly garri¬ soned. [The Salt-mines are 8 m. N.W., at end of the Hall Thai, a wild and narrow ravine. Ed. very steep and bad. Mine can be seen by an order from the office in Hall, and clothes, lights, &c., are pro¬ vided on the spot. Entrance is low and inconvenient, but there are several _ large chambers. Brine is obtained as at Hallein (Ete. 200), and it is conveyed dirough wooden pipes and a suc¬ cession of reservoirs to Hall. Formerly 700 men were em¬ ployed; now the quantity pro¬ duced and the number of la- 30 urers is reduced by one-third.J The Salzberg, containing the princij3al mines, with bare white precipices, is seen N.W. from Hall. Schloss Ambras lies at foot of the hills S. This highly inte¬ resting pile is described Ete. 212. Ely. crosses the Inn oppo¬ site Muhlau, where is a chain bridge near mouth of the Sill, issuing from the Brenner. Bail is carried partly on a wooden viaduct to Innsbruck Stat. See Ete. 212. m SECTION II. SALZBURG AND THE SALZKAMMEEGUT. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. Salzburg. Geographical position. — Ilistory. — Scenery .— Salzkam- MERGUT. Situation.—Origin of name,—Physical features. — Salt^ mines. — Salt-ivorhs. ROUTE COL. 195 Salzhurg to Linz and Vienna.47 199 Salzburg to Berchtes- gaden and the Konigs- SGS • • a a a a^I T99ABerchtesgaden to Bad Gastein, by the Stein- erne Meer and Saal- felden.69 2 00 Salzburg to Bad Gastein, by Hallein and Werfen 71 301 Bad Gastein to Ober- Vellacb, by the Pass of Malnitz , , . . 84 ROUTE ^ COL. 202 Bad Gastein to Salzburg, by Zell am See and the Mitter Pinzgau . . 88 203 The Salzkammergut; Linz (or Lambach) to Ischl and Aussee, by the Falls of the Traun, and the Lakes of Gmunden and Hall- statt. ..... 92 204 The Lake of Hallstatt to Golling and Salz¬ burg, by Gosau and Abtenau . . . .105 Sketch op Salzburg and the Salzkammergut. No portion of the Alpine region is more thoroughly and delight¬ fully picturesque than that com¬ prised within the two districts of Salzburg and the Salzkainmer- gut. Salzburg is a narrow slip of territory watered by the Salzach, interposed between Tyrol (and a small portion of Bavaria) on the W., and Upper Austria and Styria on the E. Originally part of the Roman Noricum, it was in 582 A.D. given by the Ba¬ varian Duke Theodore to Rupert, its first bishop, whose successors, made Archbishops 784 a.d., be¬ came Princes of the Empire in 996, with an enlarged territory, and a pop. of 200,000, their posses¬ sions sometimes extending below Friesach, in Carinthia. After the secularisation of ecclesiastical territories, Salzburg in 1805 was attached to Austria, and con¬ firmed as such in 1814 by the treaty of Paris. The summits of the Noric Alps, including the two notable peaks, the Gross 45 SALZBUBG, d:G. INTBODUCTOBY INFOJtMATION. 46 Venediger and Gross Glockner, form its southern boundary, and the valleys penetrating the chain on the Salzburg side offer much fine scenery. To one of them belongs the Kriml waterfall, perhaps the grandest in Europe. Another, the Fusclitlial, is rich in all the higher elements of Alpine scenery. In a third are the cele¬ brated hatlis of Gastein. But the most charming portion of the country is lower down, where the Salzacli forces its way through the romantic pass of Lueg, and where Salzburg sits among its no¬ ble hills. This lower or nortliern portion is dignified by a grand and desolate mass of limestone mountains — the Tminengehirge, itself part of an extensive range, stretching westward as the Steinerne Meer, and eastward as the Daclistein group. The district also contains some lovely lakes, particularly that of St. Wolfgang. The Salzkammergut (called the Austrian Switzerland), pop. 17,000, of which 6ooo are Protes¬ tants, is a corner of the province of Ui^per Austria, thrust in between Salzburg on the W., and Styria on the E., whose famous salt-mines (that article being a government monopoly) are placed under a separate administration^ {Rammer). The whole district is watered by that most charming of streams, the Traun, which, rising in Styria, flows along the base of the Dach- stcin (a mountain block which forms the southern limit of the country), and threads in its lower course the two lalces, exquisite in scenery, of Halhtatt and Traun, or lake of Gmunden. The great picturesqueness of the country is due chiefly to the lofty limestone precipices, which rise often without any shore from the waters of the lakes and lake- lets, and to the rich woodland beauty of the valleys, while glimpses of eternal snow among the Daclistein summits are not wanting to give lustre to the land- sca23e. ^ It was a great favourite with Sir PI. Davy, who frequently enlarges upon its loveliness, and says, “ I know of no country more beautiful.” Isehl is the ehief town,^ now a most fashionable watering place, and a constant resort of the Imjierial family. The Salt-mines are remarkable objects of interest, both in Salz¬ burg and the Salzkammergut. Those of Plallein in the former, and of Ischl and Hallstatt in the latter district are the chief. The salt rarely occurs as pure rock- salt, as in Cheshire, but is dis¬ persed. in veins and threads, intermingled with bituminous clay, marl, and gypsum. Pits anti galleries are dug to reach these beds. A small chamber is excavated in the midst of the salt, wooden pipes are laid down to it, and from it, and then a mountain stream is turned on, and the outlet being commanded by valves, the water is kept full in the chamber to the ceiling till sufficiently impregnated with salt, and becomes strong brine. The chamber is eontinually en¬ larged by this process, con¬ tinually refloored with clay, &c., and refilled. There will be 30 or 40 of such chambers in one mine. The brine when drawn off is conveyed in pipes often a vast distance, for convenience of fuel, to the boiling-houses; sometimes they are carried along the sides of precipices, sometimes through tun- 47 Rte. ido.SALZBURG to VIENNA. RAIL. 4 S nels, or over deep ravines, and in one instance the brine is forced over two ranges of mountains, by the aid of powerful hydraulic pumps. 30, or even 60 miles, is not too great a distance. Tlie Salt-worJcs consist of pans or trays of thin iron plates, i ft. deep, 50 or 60 ft. in circumfer¬ ence, and supported on pillars of brickwork. The fuel is piled underneath, and a lire kept up for a week or a fortnight together, the salt being removed as fast as it crystallises, and fresh brine added. 100 lbs. of brine ju'oduce about 26 lbs. of salt. ROUTES. Rte. 195. — SALZBURG to LINZ and VIENNA, by Rail. SALZBUBG to ENG. 51. Laixibach Stat. 54! „ 23i Linz Enns Molk 9 i 54 f ENG. 5r. St. PoltenStat. i6|^ Vienna „ 37^ 1951 A night e.xpress in 8 hrs., and a day train in about 12 hrs. This rte. skirts tiie Austrian Highlands on the N., and at several points olfers ready means of access to them. Salzburg is, indeed, itself the most immediate and delightful, but Lambacli (for Ischl) is an important station, and Enns and St. Pblten are so in a less degree; while Vienna, beside its intrinsic interest as a great European capital, is a neces¬ sary ^ starting-point for anyone wisliing to penetrate the Austrian Alps on their E. side. Those who can spare time will see more interesting scenery than the rail aftords by taking steamers at Linz, down the Danube to Vienna. Salzburg {Inns: de I’Europe, a new, large, but expensive one, near the stat.; Nelboeck’s, between the stat. and tlie town. pleasant situation, and very com¬ fortable ; Erzherzog Karl, Gold- nes Schitf, Drei Allirte, all in the town ; 2nd class, Drei Mohren). Salzburg {.luvavia of the Ro¬ mans, destroyed by Attila), 17,250 Inhab., is most j^ictur- esquely situated on the Salz- ach, where it issues from the mountains, rushing with torrent- speed between two precipitous heights—that on the 1. bank crowned by the castle, that on rt. named after a Capuchin con¬ vent on its brow. It is justly rej)uted the most beautiful spot in Germany. Wilkie compared Salzbm-g to Edinburgh Old Town and Castle, set down amidst the Trosachs, and watered by a river like the Tay. The variety of prospect over hill, mountain, and plain, the numerous footpaths and points of view, the many excur¬ sions that the neighbourhood aftords, contribute to render Salz¬ burg one of the most charming spots that a tourist who delights in natural scenery can desire. The Toion itself is dull. A suburb on the E. side of the river, first passed through, contains Mira- hel,^ once a palace of the arch- bishojis, now a modern building belonging to the EmjD., with a T>j a iiaavniwr P iS'/UVSiSSr 49 Bte. l^^.—SALZBUna to VIENNA. RAIL. 50 public garden promenade. Here Haspinger, the celebrated Tyro¬ lese leader, died a pensioner in 1858. From this suburb also, near the bridge, is the entrance to the Capuziner Berg, by a long flight of steps, nothing particular in the convent, but the walk along the edge of the hill affords admu-able views of the town, and the summit (cafe), a glori¬ ous prospect, especially from the point called Stadtplatz, from which the valley of Berchtes- gaden and a long stretch of tliat of the Salzach can be seen. Near the bridge, at a corner house. No. 397, Paracelsus died 1541. His monument is in the Ch. of St. Sebastian. Crossing the Bridge, the principal town hotels are close at hand, and nearly opposite the Drei Allirte, to the rt.. No. 225, Getreide Gasse, Mozart was born 1756; a statue of him by Schwanthaler stands in the centre of St. Mi¬ chael’s Platz, along the street to the 1 . Adjoining this is the Residenz Platz, surrounded by public buildings. Among them are the Residenz Schloss of the Archbishop, now chiefly public offices, and the Neuhau (Picture- gallery) opposite, with a clock- tower, which rings out some of Mozart's airs. Here also are the Post and Telegraph Offices. The Cathedral occupies the S.W. side, vast and imposing, in the Italian style, built 1614 to 1628. Scamozzi s design. Notice the Bronze Lion Font of the 14th centy. In centre of the square is a fine Fountain in marble from the Untersberg. Beyond the Cathedral W. is Ch. of St. Peter, with a bad monument to Michael Haydn, whose head is buried there; also the tomb'of St. Eupert. Among the ch. treasures is an ancient cup, used when the sacrament was delivered in both kinds to the laity. Adjoining is a vast Benedictine Monastery, with valuable library and col¬ lection of minercds, shown to strangers. Behind the ch. is a singular Cemetery, with many old monuments, and the Chapel of St. Egidius, said to contain the original rock-cut cell of St. Eu- pert. The Museum, entered from the Josefs quay, contains many very interesting Eoman and other an¬ tiquities. A helmet, probably Celtic, is unique. Open daily from 10 to 12 a.m., and from i to 4 p.m. The Castle (Hohensalzburg) is the most striking featm-e of Salz¬ burg, rising, with its many feudal towers, superbly above the town, upon the summit of a lofty rock. It was founded in the nth centy., was during the middle ages the constant residence of the arch¬ bishops, and in after times their frequent place of refuge. One of themwas besieged there during the Peasants’ War, 1520-26. Visitors pay a fee of 20 kr. The greater part of the building serves only as barracks, but the archiepiscopal apartments have been restored to the date of Archbishop Leon¬ hard, 1519. Observe a fine earthenware stove with the de¬ vice of a turnip, that prelate having been the introducer of the root in his principality. In a square tower is the torture-cham¬ ber, with a rack and oubliette. View from the gallery called the Gerichtsthurra is very fine, but the most enchanting prospects are from the Monclisberg, a continuation north¬ wards of the castle-hill, precipitous 51 Rte. m.—SALZBVRa to VIENNA. RATE 52 ou the sides, and approachable at two or three points by staircases in the rock. The most immediate access is from the street leading up from the bridge. The sum¬ mit is laid out with winding paths and pleasure-houses, and no one should omit a visit, for the sake of the charming views on all sides. The hill at'a narrow part is pierced by a tunnel, called Das Neue Thor, constructed by the archbishop Sigismund von Sehrattenbach 1767. Near the town end of it is the Riding- school of the Archbishops, with galleries hewn out of the rock, and their stable, now a cavalry barrack. Fulls of rock from the Monchsberg have sometimes been very fatal to the town: a church, convent, many houses, and 300 persons, were destroyed in this wayini669. The two finest mountain-forms in the Salzburg landscape are,- rst, the Untersherg S. (6459 ft.), noted for its rich marbles, and, according to legend, holding in its caverns Cliarles V. and Charlemagne in a magic sleej): see Ete. 199. (Ascent in 4J or 5 hrs. from Schloss Glanegg— Inn, and omnibus 4 times a day from Salzburg. The highest of its 3 summits is that towards Berchtesgaden. Descent can be made on the W. side to the Hallthurm, on the road from Berchtesgaden to Eeichenhall. No water on the mountain). 2ndly, the Hohe Gdll (8265 ft.'', further to the S., on the 1 . Between the two lies the way to Berchtes¬ gaden and the romantic Konigssee, which is the most indispensable of several Excursions round Snlz- burg, and is fully described, Ete. 199. The nearer ones are (a) Chateau of Aigen, 3 m., on rt. or E. bank of river, reached by a new bridge above the town, the Carolinen Brlicke. It belongs to Prince Schwarzenberg; should be visited in a morning. A Eestau- rant at the entrance supplies a guide, 30 kr. The gardens are famous. Carriage to go and return 2 fl. 40 kr. The chateau is at the foot of the Gaisberg (4223 ft.). Ascent in 2 hrs. Inn at the Zistel Aim, 700 ft. below the top ; grand panorama, including several mountain-ranges and 7 lakes. (6) Chateau Hellbrunn, 3 m. on the Hallein road, has very curious waterworks, which put groups of figures, &c., in motion, con¬ structed by Archbishop Sitticus in 1613 ; now Imperial property. Omnibus from Salzburg every I hr., 10 kr. Eestaurant in |,he grounds. A ferry over the Sal- zacli enables a pedestrian to visit Aigen at the same time. A car¬ riage must go round by (c) Hallein, where the Salt-mines are well worth seeing (Ete. 200). (d) Maria Plain, a pil. ch. on a hill, 2 J m. N. of Salzburg, on rt. bank of the river, is a fine point of view. (e) Kolowrats-Hohle, a curious ' Ice-cavern in the E. slope of the Ge^erec/^;, discovered 1846. Ascent in 2I hrs. from Glanegg to the Oher Resitteralm, and thence in I hr. to the entrance. Steigeisen useful. Eopes are placed inside to assist in its exploration. The Rly. stat. is f m. N. of the town. Winding in N.E. direc¬ tion, the first stat. on way to Linz is Seekirchen, beyond which thcil j rly. skirts the Wallersee, a lake of no great beauty. On its shores are the Convent of Seekirchen, where St. Eupert lived before life. I^o.—SALZBUIIG to VIENNA. BAIL. lie founded Salzburg; chateau of Sieghardtstein, and Schloss See- burg. NeumarU Stat. and Strass TVal- cJien Stat. are passed. Frankenmarkt Stat.; a cross road hence S. to the Attersee, the largest, but not most beautiful, of the Salzburg hikes. Next follow m. Vocklamarkt Stat., Bedl Stat., and Timelkam Stat. 0 ? m. Vocklabruck Stat. (Inns: Moor, best; Post), a vill. on the Vockla, stream full of grayling. Post¬ road to Isehl, along E. shore of the Altersee, 25 m. Omnibus daily. cb. altar-pieces by Sandrart. On opposite side of river, i m. from Lambach, singular pilgrimage Ch, of Baura, dedicated to the Trinity, and built in form of a triangle, with 3 altars, 3 towers, 3 windows, &c., finished 1725. [By the branch rly. hence to G^unden, or lake of that name, is the^ rte. to Ischl, and beautiful legion of the Salzkammergut (Rte. 203). This branch is the oldest German rly.] Rly.-follows the 1. bank of the Trimn, Gunskirchen Stat. Chateau of 2 Lichtenegg, seen rt. close to 2Jm. Attnang Stat. Ely. follows the valley of the Agger, another angling stream. The mountains of the Salzkammergut lie all alono- tlie S. The Traunstein (5537 ft.^ on Lake of Gmunden, is the most conspicuous, like profile of Louis XVI. looking upwards. 4 fm. Schwannstadt Stat. (Inn: Hirsch), 4 m. S. [Near Roitham, and close to the rly., leading from Lambach into the Salzkammergut, are the beautiful/aZ^s of the Traun.l Breitenschiitzing Stat. 7 m. lambach Junction Stat. (Inns: a large and comfortable one at stat., nearly i m. beyond vill. ; Schwarze Rbssel, not very good)* vill. dating from the 8th centy ’ near the junction of the A"o-er with the Traun. Upon an enii- nence above the latter is the stately Benedictine Monastery founded in nth centy., a rich library, collection of engravings, and old German paintings. In Weis Stat. (Inn: Der Greif, 4 Gnffin,^ decorated with coats of arms of distinguished travellers). Ancient town, 6000 Inhab., still with its old walls. (Roman In the old castle Emp. JMaximilian died ^5 ^9 j also in 1690, Prince Charles of Lor¬ raine, distinguished in rescue of Vienna from the Turks. See the old parish ch. and its interost- portal. Protestant ch. near stat. [18 m. S.S.E. is the vast Ahhey of Kremsmilnster, built in 18th, but founded in 8th centy. Valuable Library, rich in MSS. and natural history coll. Obser¬ vatory 8 stories (186 ft.) high. Singular fish preserves, &c.] The scenery here becomes mo¬ notonous, passing over the now cultivated Welser Haide. Marchtrenh and Horsching StaG. Linz Stat. (Inns: noneiG.i very good : Rother Ki-ebs; Erz- “ herzog Karl, close to wharf of Vienna steamers ; Goldener Ad- 55 Bte. 1 ^^.—SALZBURG to VIENNA. RAIL. 5 G ler, on the Danube; Goldener Lowe, in the Market-place; Ca- none or Stuck, in tlie Land- strasse, near Post-office; all din¬ ners served a la carte). Town beautifully situated on rt. bank of Danube, Avhich is here crossed by a bridge 1700 ft, long. Public buildings not remarkable. In the Lmidhaus, a very large building, formerly a convent, the Estates of Upper Austria meet. The Aluseum adjoining has some curious objects of antiquity, &c., and a model of the Salzkammer- gut, Cathedralismodenx (1863), Ilofburg or Sehloss, on a height facing the Danube, now a bar¬ rack, was erected in 1800, on site of the ancient palace of the Aus¬ trian dukes, where our Prince Rupert was once imprisoned, and fell in love with his gaoler’s daughter. The Great Marhet- 2)lace is a fine square. The Trinity Column in the centre of it commemorates escape of the town both from the plague and the Turks, There is a small Theatre. The Fortifications of Linz, constructed by Arch. Maxi¬ milian of Este, consist of a chain of detached forts, 32 in number, on a circuit of 9 miles, communi¬ cating only by a covered way, and each consisting of a tower, or series of towers. Permission is given on application to see them. No. T, on the Vienna road, i J m. from the town, is most convenient for the pm’pose. Best ^points of View round Linz are,— 1 st. The top of the hill, behind the town, near Jdgermeyers garden, reached by one of the side-streets out of the Landstrasse, making for the Jesuits’ College, and passing through its garden and the fields beyond, to the summit of the hill, or, by a flight of steps and foot¬ path from a little above bridge. The town, Danube, and fortifica¬ tions, are here seen to great ad¬ vantage, while the snow-clad chain of the Salzburg and Styrian Alps stretches on the S. as far as the eye can reach. 2nd. The Pbstlingberg, on 1. bank of river, 2 m. from town. View more extensive, but not so in¬ teresting. 3rd. Ch. of St. Mag¬ dalene, reached in 20 minutes by a i-horse car on the Bohemian tramway: fine View. liinz is ill the express-train Rte. from Calais via Brussels, Cologne, Mayence, Nuremberg, Eatisbon, Eassau, to Vi¬ enna. From Eatisbon travellers can descend the Danube in a day to Linz, passing through much interesting scenery. Not less so is that between Linz and Vienna, 126 m., by water, bteamers every day both ways. See for Danube Handbook S. Germany, Etes. 196 and 197. Trains leave Linz for Gmunden, whence steamers and dil. to Ischl, in Salzkammergut, twice a day, in about 7 brs. The rly. to Vienna (Kaiserin Elizabeth Westhahn) avoids the Danube, except between Ips and Molk, about half-way. It passes No. I of the Fort Towers (see 2 m above), and a little beyond Klein Mtinchen stat. crosses 1 m the Traun near its junction with the Danube. At Ebelsberg, a little higher up, the bridge was furiously contested against Mas- sena in 1809: 12,000 men fell before the Austrians yielded. Country now rises into hills on rt. Asten stat. 2 m. from' the 4 m vill., S.W., is Monastery of St. Florian, the saint famous through¬ out Austria and Bavaria as the extinguisher of fire. It is the oldest monastic foundation in 57 Rte. SALZBURG to VIENNA. RAIL. 58 Austria, having been founded by St. Severinus iu 45 5 ; but the pre¬ sent building is Italian, of the reign of Charles VL, date 1713. It is a palace in extent, with library, picture gallery, frescoed hall, &c.,an ancieiitcryptbeneath. 21 m. Enns stat. {Inns ; Adler, very good; also Krone, in the square), picturesque little town of 4000 Inhab. on 1. bank of the Enns, which divides Upper from Lower Austria, and enters the Danube a little below. It was a Koman stat., and in 304 a.d. the scene of a persecution of the Christians by Galerius, when St. Florian was martyred, being thrown from the bridge into the Enns. His body lies in the monastery named after him,near Asten. The walls of the town were, it is said, built with the ransom paid for Richard Cceur de Lion. The Tower in the market-place was built by Emp. Maximilian. Church con¬ tains many antiquities and old painted glass. Chateau of Count Auersperg is on a height over the river. [A post-road ascends by the Enns, and, passing through Steyer, enters the picturesque scenery of Styi-ia at Altenmarkt. Rte. 242.] The rly. crosses the Enns into Lower Austria, and takes a S.E. direction away from the Danube and towards the hills. St. Valen¬ tin Stat. and Haag Stat. are passed. i m. St. Peter Stat. [A road tra¬ versed by a dil. turns off W. to Steyer. Rte. 242.] After Aschbach Stat., the rly. enters the valley of the Ips, which it follows to the Danube. 14| m. Amstetten Stat. {Inn : Post). Country is more interesting. Mu¬ rat here beat the Austrians 1805. fA post-rd. from here crosses into that of the Ennsthal by way of Waidhofen and Weyer."] Vassing BlindenmarJct Stat. the line crosses the Ips to Kemmelbach stat. {Inn: Gol-91 m, dener Adler), and turning rt. touches the Danube, which, from hence to Molk, enlivens the view N., while the Styrian mountains dignify it on the S. On opposite side of the Danube see Persen- burg, a summer villa of the Emp., and a little further on, the double spires of the pil. ch. of Maria laferl are seen. Krumnusbauin Stat. is passed before reaching Pochlarn Stat. One of the 91 m. oldest places in Austria. Rudi¬ ger of Pochlarn is one of the famous heroes of the Niebelun- gen Lied. Molk Stat. {Inns: Lamm, nextl^ m. the Post-office, clean; Ochs, the Speisesaal looks over the Danube). The most interesting spot on the Rte. from the great Benedictine Monastery, whicli crowns the rock above the town and river. The present palatial building dates from 1707. In the loth centy. Molk was a strong- liold against the JMagyars, and for a length of time the residence of the Margraves of Austria. Six of them and their wives arc buried in the Church, a very gorgeous building. The Library is magnificent, the Treasury in¬ teresting. The View from the monastery windows is alone worth a visit. Napoleon laid immense contributions on the monies, of which at present there are 20, most of them engaged elsewhere 59 60 Rte. 1 <^ 5 .-SALZBTJRG to VIENNA. RAIL. as University Professors, &c. Pa~ 7 ’ish cli. of the town, 1481, has curious monuments and stone¬ work. Ely. again leaves the Danube, which turns N. The Styrian Alps fill the S. horizon with great magnificenoe, the Oetscher, beyond IMariazell, being the most conspicuous. Losdorf and Prin- zersdorf Stats, are passed. Polten Stat. ; Lowe, good; Hirsch), town of 5000 Inhab., on the Traisen, seat of a bishop; name, contraction of St. Hippolytus. [A great road here turns off S. to Mariazell, the “ Lo- retto of Austria, at foot of the Styrian Alps. Ete. 245.] The rail crosses the Traisen to 21 m. Pottenbrunn Stat. Chateau of that name seen to 1 . The chain of hills now entered, stretching from the _ Styrian Alps to the Danube, is called the Wiener- wald. The line passes Poheim- Jdrclien, Kirchstetten, Neidenghach, EocMwinkel, Preshaum Stats.’ when it reaches and follows the small, but unruly, river TFVere, which gives name' to the capital of Austria. 26 m. Purkersdorf (stat.) is a con¬ siderable vill, with a handsome post-house. 2Jm. Weidlingau Stat. On 1. is Hadersdorf, once the estate of Gen. Loudon, who lies buried there. The rail crosses the Wien, and skirts the deer and wild-boar park, or Thiergarten, of Schdnhrunn rt. It is a strictly private Imperial preserve. 2jm. Hutteldorf Stat. Town com¬ posed of villas, gardens, and ta¬ verns; a sort of Eichmond for the Viennese. Penzing Stat. A little tothe 2 i rt. is the Imperial Palace of Schbnbrunn. Vienna Terminus, outside the2i Maria Hilf Lines, thrown up in ^ T703 against the Hungarians. Omnibuses and cabs at the stat. Vienna (inGeim. Wien) (Inns: in the city : Erzherzog Karl, com¬ fortable, many English; Oester- reichischer Hof, 1863, large and well managed; Kaiserin Eliza- beth, good, and moderate for Vienna. In the suburbs: airy, and near the Prater and Danube, Goldener Lamm, first-rate; Hotel Schroeder, well kept, clean, and moderate; 2nd class : Ungarische Krone; Konig v. Ungarn, &c. All charges higli in Vienna; ascertain prices of rooms, &c. Bachelors had better breakfast and dine at a cafe). Chief objects of interest are: Cathedral of St. Stephen; Ch. of IMaria Stiegen; vaidts of the Capuchin Cli., wliere the Imperial fixmily are buried; the Imperial Palace (K. Iv. Kurg.); the Upper and Loxyer Belvedere Galleries, (best View of Vienna from the gardens); the Palace and garden of Schonbrunn 2 m. from Vienna; and the Prater, or Park, extend¬ ing to the Danube 4 m. in the ojiposite direction. For Ptee. 196-198 (Danube and Vienna) see S. Germ. Ilandbh. 62 61 Rte. SALZBURG TO BRRCETESGABLN, &c. Rte. 199. — SALZBURG to BERCHTESGADEN and the KONIGSSEE, returning- by REICHENHALL. SALZBUEG to ENG. 51. Berclitesgaden 14I Kdnigssee . lleichenhall . 17^ Salzburg . ENG. 51. . loi 46 A good road. Omnibus twice a day Irom the Goldene Schiif at 6 morn , and 4 aft., in Ji- hrs., price 42 kr.; carriage I horse, to go and return, 6 fl.; 2 horses 9 fl., tnnkgeld included. Stipulate for the lake, and to wait. Be provided with Sliver money. The return by Reichen- hall agreeably varies the journey, but it is 7 m. longer. A good plan is to go over night to Berchte-sgaden to sleep, or the day may be thus divided Start at . Reach Berchtesgaden . Konigssee . . . . See Lake and back to B. Binner. See mines .... Reichenhall ... * 6 A.5I. 9 » 10 „ 1 p.5r. 2 „ No one visiting Salzburg should omit this excursion, one of the most charming in Europe. The territory of Berchtesgaden, which iwojects like a peninsula into Austria, was reserved to Bavaria at the congress of Vienna, as a hunting ground for the Bavarian piinces, with whom it is in great favour. The Kdnigesee is almost unrivalled in its solemn beauty. Salzburg is left by the Cajetan gate and the Gastein rd, from which that to Berchtesgaden soon Turns oif rt., and follows al pretty stream to Grddig, near which rt. is seen 4 fechloss Glanegg. The road now winds round the base of the Untersherg (6459 ft.), the nitn so conspicuous in tiie Salzbui-o- landscape, and within whose caverns the Emperor Charle- magne and Charles V. are sup- jiosed to rest till the day of the awakening of a united Germany. The red and white marble em¬ ployed in the Munich buildings is obtained from it. (For ascend see Salzburg.) Passing St. Leonhard, the road enters a romantic Defile, called the “ Pass of the Overhanging Bock ” {Hdngenden Stein), througli which rushes the Alin, and where is a rock inscryi- tion, ^^Pax intrantibus et habitan- tibus.” This is the entrance to the Berchtesgaden territory, where an old watch-tower formerly served as Bavarian Custom-house. After passing through Schellenberg, an old toivn, the3| valley beyond opens to view. The hills on the 1. culminate in the noble Hohe Gull, whicli is a marked object from Salzburg, but here the great feature of the view is the gigantic Watzmann (8988 ft.}, raising his snow-clad and double-horned head at the ex¬ tremity of the valley. At vilh of Anfang a rd. branches otf to3i Hallein; 1. the vill. of Berchtes- gadeii crowns a picturesque hill in front, and i m. before entering it the Salt-mine is passed 1 . on opposite bank of river. 63 Bte. m.—SALZEVna to BEitCHTESGADEN, Ac. 64 BERCHTESGADEN" AND THE WATZMANN". Berchtesgaden {Lms: Zum 'VV’atzniann,best; Leutliaus; Neu- haus) in a charming situation, formerly the seat of an ecclesiasti¬ cal Princedom, dating from 13 th cent. Territory, 179 Eng. square m.; inhab. 9000. The Schloss, once the convent, is now Bavarian government offices. Ch. has a Romanesque cloister. A villa of the late King Max. II., outside town, S., with view of the Watz- mann. Below it are the salt Boiling houses with their stores of Avood. Toys of wood, bone, and ivory, called Berchtesgaden Avare, are to bejmrchased at A. Kaserer’s and Klausner’s. The Salt-mine, 1 m. on Salz¬ burg road, is Avorth visiting, and more accessible for ladies than that at Hallein (Rte. 201), the salt also is in larger masses, and the blasting of it by gunpowder is a part of the usual exhibition to sti-angers. The mines are some¬ times splendidly illuminated. Observe the very curious hy¬ draulic pumping engines. Landlord of Inn procures permission to visit the mines, 45 kr. per head, and 45 kr. for each guide. Time required I or 13^ hrs. Open from loj- to 12, and 43- to 6. Excursions. —The chief object in going to Berchtesgaden is to visit— a. — The Konigssee, Avhich is above all to be recommended. The road crosses the river Ache, Avhich floAvs from the lake [a rd. strikes off for the Konigs- berg, over Avhich is a path to Gelling, Rte. 200, 4 hrs. to the top], and keeps the rt. bank (for pedestrians is' a pleasant path on 1. bank) ; winding through charming country, it reaches the narrow end of the Konigssee (also BarfJwlomaS^ See), 1996 ft. The original small Inn, Zum Konigssee, has been C 5 Bte. l^^.—SALZBVRG to BEBCHTESGABEN, (fee. 6G superseded by a large one, with 40 beds, to accommodate the crowd of summer tourists, cliiefly German. Boats are in plenty, often rowed by ■women. A tariff fixes the price—boat jC) kr., and each rower 36 kr. to far end, 6 m. and back, 2 hrs. The sceneiy of the lake is wonderfully impressive, from the abruptness and height of the sruTounding mountains, which scarcely leave a landing place. They are clad with dark forests, and their rocky and snow-patched summits are a favourite haunt of the eagle and the chamois, which in the royal hunts are often driven into the water to be shot from boats. After passing a low wooded island, with a Chapel of St. John uiDon it, the lake opens to sight, backed by the wild masses of the Steinerne Meer, from which rises the SchdnfeldSpitze (8695 ft.), and others, covered with snow. The Konigsbach, falling in a cascade, is passed to 1.; a little further is a line echo (pistol shot 8 kr.), and further still is a cavern (Kuchler Loch), by which the waters of the lake are supposed to communi¬ cate with the waterfall near Gel¬ ling (Kte. 200). The boat then lands on the 1. shore to allow a visit to the cascade of the Kessel- bacJi, a 10 min. climb through woods, with charming backward views of the lake, and the Watz- mann beyond now coming nobly into view W. Then the boat crosses to a tongue of land on W. shore, called the THrschau (1^ hr. row from the N. end). Here are the pilgrimage chapel of St Bartliolomd, a Hunting lodge of the king, and a small Inn. Refreshments, or a fish dinner of the char {Salmo Alpinus) of the lake ; portraits of large fish on the Kp. Tyr. & Alps. walls. [3 m. behind the Inn is the Ice chapel. A fatiguing walk brings only to a hcajD of avalanche snow, in a wild glen under the Watzmann; better spare the time, except for the variety of jfiants found there.] There was a pil. ch. here as early as 1134, and on St. Bartholomew’s Day fires are lighted on the surrounding heights. The head of the lake is i^m. further; here the Schran- bach falls into the lake, and a neck of land called the Salletalp, I m. broad, separates the Koiiigs- see from the Obersee, a minature lake 2 m. round, but enclosed by fine lime¬ stone precipices, “a savage but magnificent scene.” Several waterfalls descend the cliffs, and mamiots abound on the banks. This spot should not be missed. [A path leads hence into the Bliihnbachthal, and so into tlie Gastein id.. Etc. 200.] [A difiicult track 'leads from St.Bartholoma, on theKonigssee, over the Steinerne Meer, to Bad Gastein. Fine weather and guide necessary. Ete. 199 a.] [Opposite St. Bartholoma, E., is the GotzenAlp, reached in 3 hrs. by a mule-path., starting from the shore near the Kesselhach mentioned above. View highly recommended.] b. ToBamsau uwdilxellinterseer- tlial. The road turns off W. from that to the Konigssee soon after leaving Berchtesgaden, and leads in 5 m. to Ilsangmuhle, where an hydraulic pump raises the brine 1260 ft., and sends it tbrough pipes 18 m. long to Eeichenhall. m. further is opening of the Wimbachthal 1. (see below), and I m. beyond is Bamsau, with a D G 7 Itte. m.—SALZBURG to BBRCIITESGABEN, &c. 68 good Inn amidst wild picturesque scenery. The road, after passing the turn to the Taubensee rt., reaches the Hintersee, 2 m., and skirts its W. shore. There are a few good houses, a good Inn, and hunting lodge. The scenery is charming, with rocks and broken wood jutting into the lake, and on the further shore rises the Hochkalter, here soft, and clothed with wood. Beyond, the land¬ scape is bare and solitary, and the rd. ascends the fine Hirsch- bUhelpass (3896 ft.), commanding a magnificent view of limestone peaks, a good Inn on summit, and Austrian O.-H, (Ascent of the Kammerling Horn (8146 ft.), E., is made in 3 hrs. from Inn; grand panorama, and noted for plants). The descent leads near the extraordinary ravine, the Seissen- herger Elam, and falls into the road from Eeichenhall to Gastein at Oh. Weishach, Etc. 202. (From Eamsau is a circuitous but in¬ teresting road by the Tauhensee (a small and lovely lake, with fine view of the Watzmann), the SchwarzhacJiwacM, a low col (2906 ft.) between the Lattenberg and the Eeiteralpe, and vill. of Jetten- berg to Eeichenhall). c. The WimhacJithal, a scene of desolate grandeur, ascends between the Watzmann, E., and the Hochkalter (85 95 ft.) W. The slopes of the 2 mts. being remark¬ ably abrupt fill the valley with debris. Entrance is by a very fine gorge, where the water of the valley emerges into daylight for the first time. At i J hr. is a small hunting lodge, and i good hr. furtlier, where the valley bends round to the S. side of the Watz¬ mann is a small tarn. (By a climb over the ridge 1. a good cragsman may reach the Eisthal, and descend to St. Bartholoma, on the Konigssee). E. The head of the Wimbachthal is closed by bare limestone peaks, and the valley once formed a lake similar to, but finer than the Konigssee. d. Ascent of the Watzmann (8 gSS ft.). This is usually made from Eamsau, ascending over niglit by the Stuhenalp to the chalets of the Guglalp to sleep, 3 hrs; thence 3 hrs. brings to the summit. Of the two peaks the lower one is generally selected, and the vieio comprises the Gross Glocknel¬ and its snowy chain, the moun¬ tains of the Salzkammergut, and the plains of Bavaria as far as Augs¬ burg and Eatisbon.- Tlie Watz¬ mann can also be ascended from the N. end of the Konigssee by the Falz Alp, in 8 hrs. from Berchtesgaden. From Berchtesgaden a post¬ road winds by a ciiarming ascent, with lovely views, past the King’s Villa, and turns N. up the broad Bischofswiesenthal to the Pass Hallthurn (salt tower) (2224 ft.), named from a Gothic gateway once closing the pass, which lies between the Untersberg rt. and the Lattenberg, 1.; thence it de¬ scends through most picturesque scenery, and by an Austrian castle, upon Eeichenhall. (Inns: Post, 11 m. good; Lowenbrau, &c.) There is a diligence every day at 2 o’clock aft. from Berchtesgaden to Eei- cheuhall in 2 hrs. for 3 fl. 44 kr. i-horse car 4 fl. G 9 Bte. mx.—BERGHTESGABEN to BAB GASTEIN. 70 From Eeicbenhall it is nearly a 2 lirs. drive (see Bte. 229) to lOf m. Salzburg* (Bte. 195). Rte. 199 A. (205 in S. Germ. Handbook). — BEECHTESGA- DEN to BAD GASTEIN, by tbe STEINERNE MEEK and SAALEELDEN. BERCHTESGADEN to hrs. Saalfelden.12 Lend (by the Dientnerthal) . . 6 Bad Gastein.4^ 22i Drive m. to the Konigssee. Boat li hr. to a little beyond St. Bartholoma. A stiff walk thence of 9 hrs without stops to Saalfelden. If preferred a bed in straw may be had at St. Bartholoma. The chief object of this walk is the passage of the Steinerne Meer (stony ocean), a vast lime¬ stone wilderness, which is up¬ lifted to the S. of the Konigssee, and which forms one of the most remarkable scenes of desolation in the Alps. From Berchtesgaden to 2 hrs. St. Bartholoma, on theKonigs- see (see Bte. 199), take the boat on to the Entrance of a valley on the ^ hr. rt. (same side as Bartholoma), and climb a steep jjath through very picturesque scenery, and passing the Griinsee (Pinus cem- hra abundant), to the Funtpsee (5247 ft.), a high 3 ^ hi mountain tarn with a few huts on its margin, inhabited only in summer. As the track now ceases, it is better to secure a local guide here, especially if there be chance of mist or cloud. Hence it is a laborious climb over cutting limestone rocks, the noted Steinerne Meer, to the Summit of the ridge called 3^ hr TFe?'ss6ac7isc7iarte(746i ft.); thence looking back, the viev^ is scarcely to be surpassed for desolate gran¬ deur. It is unbroken by any trace of tree or verdure, bounded • in all directions by rocky sum¬ mits, and with the noble peak of the Watzmann in the background. Yet though so perfectly arid in appearance sheep contrive to pick up a living on the Steinerne Meer in the summer. Looking forimrd the view is not less striking from contrast. The valley of Saal- elden lies stretched below, and ;he Avhole range of the Noric Alps appears beyond to the S. To 7 . is the pyramidal Schdnfeldspitze, 8695 ft. The Descent is exceedingly steep and rugged to the 1st Chalet on the Weiss-1 hr. bachalm; near is a fine spring ,* no drop of water on the Steinerne Meer. The path hence improves down to Saalfelden {Inns: Auerwir{h2j hrs, and Timmerlwirth), in the Mit. D 2 71 lUe. ‘^OO.-SALZBURCt to BAD GASTEIN. 72 Pinzgau, an interesting district, full of old castles. From this to 24 ^ m. Lend, and 21 in. Bad Gastein, by post road, see Kte. 202. [From Saalfelden to Lend, a shorter, and probably more interesting char rd., ascends by the Urselauerhacli, E., skirts the S. base of the Steinerue- meer, and descends the Dienten- ihal to Lend. A pedestrian can shorten it still further by quitting the road to the rt., about i hr. beyond vill. of Aim, and crossing the ridge directly into the Dien- tenthal at Dienten, where the Ch. is interesting, and Silurian fossils are found. The valley is narrow, but widening till it ap¬ proaches that of the Salzach; it ofters some good views. Saalfel¬ den to Lend is 6 hrs. walking, Hof Gastern 3 hrs,, Bad Gastein If hr.] Rte. 200. — SALZBURG to BAD GASTEIN, by HALLEIN and WEREEN. SALZBURG to EXG. M. Ilallein . . <)i Golling . . 9I ‘Werfen . .11 St. Johann . 11 Lend ... 9? ENG. M. Hof Gastein . 14 Bad Gastein . 6 70^ Eilwagen daily in summer in ij hrs. (8i fl.), dep, 6 A.M. A i-horse car 12 fl. and 1 fl. trinkgeld, in days. With post-horses it is a journey of 10 hrs. Best Inn is at Golling. Dil. dines at St. Johann, A romantic drive the whole way. The two most striking parts are the grand defile of , Lueg, and the remarkable Klamm pass. A perhaps still more picturesque Rte. is by Berchtesgaden, the pass of Hirsch- biihel, and Zell-am-see, but it is longer and steeper. See Rtes. 199 and 202. From Salzburg (Rte. 195), the road, leaving the Cajetan gate, keeps on 1 . bank of the Salzach. [In a short distance the rd. to Berchtesgaden turns otf rt,] Chateau of Hellbrunn, 1 ., is 3 m. passed (Rte. 195), and presently Anif, 1 . a modern Gothic villa of Count Arco. After passing ' through the vill. of Niederalm ' tlio s Aim, the stream from Bercli- 2 ^ m. tesgaden, is crossed. The ancient stud-buildings of Rif are seen to 1., and presently a huge building rt., Kaltenhausen, once a mansion, now a brewery. Ilallein. (Inns: Post (Adler), 4 m. fair, but not for sleeping; Scharz- brau; Sonne). Ancient town, 3600 * inhab.; under clouds of smoke and steam from the Saltworks. In the Durnberg, close by, S., are the ] famous mines, reached by a steep - rd., f hr. to walk; a pretty ch. of : marble, and the vill. Durnberg, \ near the entrance. [The Salt-mines consist of 8 galleries, bored in the hill, and communicating by shafts. (For 1 mode of working see Introd. to 73 Bte. 200 .— 8 ALZBUBG to BAD GASTEIN. 74 Sect. II.) Provided with proper dress, &c., and permission from the office in the town, the visitor follows a miner in a long tunnel, till he reaches a sudden descent, Avhich is accomplished by sliding doAvn, sitting upon smooth poles. Several of these may occur before a chamber half full of brine is reached, across which a boat conveys the party, and the mine is left by a passage one-third of a m. long, through which the visitor is pushed on a wooden horse at a quick pace. An amusing expedition, perfectly safe and easy for ladies, i hr. is sufficient; 1 fl. each visitor, and trinkgeld of 40 kr.; 2 fl., &c., for a single traveller.] [From Berchtesgaden to Hal- lein there are 2 routes, a. —a cross road, 6 m., by Scheffau and Zill, Douane at each; h .—a perfectly good one by the Dtirnberg, 2 hrs. walking from Berchtes¬ gaden, Avith fine views. Pass through the mine to Hallein, sending knapsack round to meet you.] \_Ascent of theBossfeld (4264ft.), a wooded hill, S. of the Diirn- berg, may be made from the vill. Durnberg in 2 hrs. Fine pano- rama.] At Hallein the road crosses the Salzach and ascends the rt. bank, the valley narrowing, with the Hohe Goll (8265 fb), and its out¬ liers rising on the W., and the Avild mass of the Tannengebirge appearing in front. The former best seen at 6m. Kuchl. (Inn: beim Auer). Here a path saving 2 m. crosses the river to the Schwarzhach Waterfall. See below. 31 m. GoUing. (Inn: Post, fair). Curious old vill., Avith an ancient castle above, and remarkable rock-cut churchyard. TJie Waterfall of the Schwarz¬ hach, 270 ft. high, one of the finest in the German Alps, supposed to be an outflow from the Konigs- see, Avhich is more than 100 ft. higher (see Ete. 199), is 2 m. off, across the Salzach, in the vale of St. Nicholas. It issues from a cavern in flanks of Hohe Gbll in 2 shoots; a natural bridge to be seen. Visited in hr., no guide needed. Make "'for the Avhite chapel of St. Nicholas on the hill. [From Golling are 2 routes to Berchtesgaden ; a .—in 7 to 8 hrs. by the Bliintauthal, and over the Konigsberg by the Torrener Joch (5696 ft.) (vieio very beautiful from summit), descending direct to the N. end of the Kbnigssee. h. By the cascade of Schwarz¬ hach, over the N. side of the Goll; guide necessary, 34 hrs. hard climb to the Col, Sattelech. Striking vieAV of surrounding mts. Descent in 2| hrs. to Berchtes¬ gaden.] Just beyond Golling the valley of the Lammer opens E. char road ascends the Lammerthal to Ahtenau, and de¬ scends to the lake of Hallstatt and to Isclil, in the Salzkammergut, Ete. 204.] Near here, rt. A Finger-post points to the 2 Oefen [a gorge of the Salzach not to he missed, Avhere the river bed has been partly choked by fallen rocks, and the stream boils in tortuous depths under a sort of natm’al bridge, and drift-Avood is seen writhing. The path to this scone of savage grandeur is carried down by flights of stops. 75 Rte. SALZBURG to BAB GA8TEIN. 7 G and the visit costs only | hr.]. A little beyond, the rd. enters the romantic i m. Pass Lueg-, nearly 5 m. long, a defile between two huge moun¬ tain masses; the Tannengebirge E,, and the Haageugebirge, W. It is grandly wooded, and the precipices scarcely leave room for Ijoth river and road. The latter at one place is suspended upon a shelf of planks. The Pass is called the gate of the Pongau (or Upper Salzach), was fiercely defended by Haspinger in 1809, and is now strongly fortified. i m. At Aschau there is a bridge to 1. bank, and at the upper end of the defile the Bliihnbach is crossed. fUp the Bluhnbaclitlial, narrow at its entrance, is a rd. on 1. bank to an old hunting lodge of the Archbishops, 3 hrs., with whom the valley was a great fa¬ vourite ; it is now appropriated by a company of Austrian sportsmen. Here the valley opens out into a noble amphitheatre, with the wild limestone mass of the Ewige Schneeberg S., and the Steinerne Meer W. Between the two is a pass S.W. over the Marterl (7052 ft.), and down the Hinter IJrslauthal to Saalfelden in the Mitter Pinzgau ; 9 hrs. (Kte. 199 A.) Also to N.W. is a diffi¬ cult climb through the Bluhn- hach Thdrl (6609 ft.), between the Alpriedhorn and the Teufels- horner to the Obersee (Berchtes- gaden) in 9 hrs. Ete. 199. The Ewige Schneeberg is also called the TJebergossene Alp, and owns a legend similar to that of the Bliimlis Alp, in Switzerland, of a luxuriant Alp, the property of an avaricious couple,ovcrwhelmedina single night with snow. The moun¬ tain is connected with the Steinerne Meer by a narrow isthmus, and rises to its highest point in the Hochkonig (9642 ft.). Ascent can be made from the hunting lodge, (where out of the hunting season entertainment and a guide can be had), by way of the Imlau Alp; and also from Werfen up tlie Hollthal, or from Miihlbach (see below), to the Mitterfeld Alp (5528 ft.); night quarters in the hut, whence, in 4 hrs., to the edge of the great plateau, a steep climb, and hr. further over ice to the Hochkonig. A stone hut now on the summit. View of the whole Pinzgau and Noric Alps beyond.] The Imperial forge of Blahaus is passed, and presently the castle of Ilohenwerfen, 1., crowns a wooded hill, 350 ft. high, with a precipice towards the Salzach. Tins stronghold of the Arch¬ bishops, founded 1076, and now barracks, was also their state prison, and was frequently the scene of frightful cruelties upon the Protestants. Some of the dungeons and the torture tower still remain. At its foot is the town of Werfen. {Inn f Post, good). 4 m Ch. has a curious monument. The Tannengebirge, which tower on the E. side of the Lueg Pass here finely display their wild forms. They stretch far to the E. The highest point, the Rau- chech (7966 ft.), overlooks Werfen. Ascent from this direction is by the Steinerne Stiege ; view fine. The valley here widens, and presently Road forks. [That to 1 . crosses 1 m the Salzach, and is the liigh road by Eadstadt into Styria E,, or over the Eadstadter Tauern S. into Carinthia. Ktes. 240 and 243.] The entrance to the Fritzthal E. is passed before reachmg •fm. Bischofshofen (Jmi: Hirsch), vill. once called Pongo, whence the valley-name, Pongau; 2 chs. worth seeing. The Tannenge- bu’ge behind are well seen, and Hochkonig W. A spur of hill at the entrance of the Fritzthal is a very fine point of view. The road passes the entrance of the MuhlbacMhal W. fA good rd. to Muldhacli, 2J hrs., good country Inn, and 2 hrs. further to the Mitterberg Copper- mines, of great antiquity. Ascent of Hochlionig is made by way of Mitterfeld Alp from this side. Ascent of the Schneeberq (6291 ft.) S.W. of the Upper Miihl- bachthal, 3 hrs. to top, offers a fine view extending from the Dachstein to the Oetzthal mtns. Also the Hoclikeil (5837 ft.), easier, is worth the climb. From head of the valley a bad cart-rd leads to the Schwarz- dientenalm, and thence either down to Dlenten, or, over Hoch- fiigen into the Winterthal, and so to Saalfelden. Ete. 199 a.] Ed. now crosses the Salzach, and ascends rather steeply to Gm. St. Johann. Inns: Post; Eossian’s, where dil. dines.) Vill. bmmt in 1852 , rebuilt in stone. [A post road here turns off E. to Eadstadt.] [Another keeps the rt. bank of Salzach a short distance, and ascends the Gross- Arlthal. This valley, 18 m. long. and parallel to that of Gastein, is entered by a similar narrow gorge. The principal vill. is Grossarl, and hr. beyond is Tofern (whence a path over a shoulder of the Gamskarkogl to Bad Gastein, 6 In-s.) At Hutt- scMag, J hr. further, 5 hrs. from St. Johann, are large copj)er and sulphur works, and. the scenery is very picturesque. There is a car.-rd. to th'is point. The valley closes among the snowy neigh¬ bours of the Ankogel. Ete. 201. There is a pass by the Schoderalm (4977 ft-)to the(7498 ft.); and down to the Samerliutte in the Maltathall, Carinthia; a fine point oi view. Ete. 243.] At 8 t. Johann the road crosses the Salzach, and presently reaches small vill. of Schwarzach {Inn: good). Here 3 m. the leaders of the Protestant peasants met in 1729, and bound themselves to abandon their country rather than their faith. To the number of 30,000 they found refuge in Prussia, Wiirtem- berg, and N. America. The table in the inn is still shown where they took the oath, and swallowed each a little salt, in token of the covenant, thence called the Salzbund. The rd. passes entrance of a valley rt., leading to the interest¬ ing old castle of Goldegg, with a curiously painted hall. Its lords were once owners of Gastein and much territory. The rd. again crosses the Salzach, and then the Ache from Gastein, before reachmg Lend {Inn: Post, new and 6| m. good), a vill. gathered round the smelting furnaces, dating from 79 Rte. SALZBURG io BAB GASTEIN. ' 80 1538, for the gold and silver from the mines of Gastein and Eainis. At present in little use. [Eoad continues hence up the Pinzgau, Ete. 230, and a good horse track goes by the Dien- tenthal, opposite, to Saalfelden. Ete. 202.] The road no\y timis S. to as¬ cend the valley of Gastein, which consists of 3 distinct levels or “ Boden,” separated by abrupt descents. The road now climbs into the ist of these levels, that of Hof Gastein, by the Klamm (steej), and requiring extra horses). A narrow cleft in schistous limestone, along the precipices of which the rd. is carried, often supported on arches, amidst scenery somewhat re¬ sembling that of the Via Mala in Switzerland. In spring it is subject to avalanches. At the narrowest part is an ancient gate¬ way or watch-house, once closing the pass; and after crossing to the rt. bank, a castle, the Klamm- stein, is passed, erected in nth centy; before that date a path over the hill W. was used, which here joins the road. The valley of Gastein now opens to view; and after passing 8 m. Borf Gastein (Hm; good) the snow mts. at the head of the valley rise into view. (A bend in the road here can be saved by the 'pedestrian.) Cm. Hof Gastein (Inns: Moser, good baths; Blaue Traube ; prices lower than at Wilbad, but no shady promenades), principal place of the valley, and in 15 th and 16th cents, of great importance, when concerned in a great carry¬ ing trade with Italy, and the residence of the wealthy miners of the district when it was a European Potosi; many of their houses still remain. Amongst them o&s. the Strasserhof, with an arcade to each story. In the ch. notice the Strochner Altar, and in the churchyard monuments of the old mining families. [The ascent of the Gamslcar- Jwgl (8077 ft.), immediately above Hof, E., is the most important excursion in the neighbourhood. A foot-path, 4 hrs. (or a longer horse-track \ a hut halfway for refreshments, and another on the summit. Panorama very fine, including on the W. and S. the Wiesbachhorn, Gross Glockner, and the snowy range stretching E. to the Hafner Spitz, the last glacier peak ; and extend¬ ing N. over the great limestone groups of Salzburg and the Salz- kammergut. Many plants on the w^.l [From Hof a path ascends W. up the Angerthal over the Stanz (6920 ft.) down to Bucheben in the Eauristhal in 6 hrs., whence to Heiligenhlut by Eauriser Tauern, see Etes. 230 and 244.] [The old road to Wildbad leads S., vnthout crossing the Ache, through 3 hamlets to the en¬ trance of the Kotschachthal. Into this a path strikes 1. over a bridge. The valley contains good scenery and many fine water¬ falls at its head; the excursion to which and the return will occupy a day. From the Pros- sau Alp a good mountaineer may climb to the Klelnelend- scharte (8226 ft.) in 4I hrs., and thence down into the ^Maltathal Carinthia, Ete. 243. A good guide necessary; sometimes deei) snow renders it impassable.] 81 Bte. 200 .~SALZBUBG to BAD GA8TEIN. 82 Proceeding by the so-called neio road or Fiirstenweg, which soon crosses the Ache, and then the Angerbach, escaping from its valley through a Klamm rt., the route ascends the hill, and passing the English coffee-house, Austrian coffee-house, and Swiss cottage, with pretty views opening out, and part of the Ewige Schnee- berg visible N.; and turning 1 . over a spray-sprinkled bridge, reaches Gm. Wildbad Gastein (3437 ft.) {Inns: Straubinger’s, near the bridge ; Mitterwirth ; Unter Kramer; Ober Kramer; Hirsch, near St. Nicolas ch. There are also many lodging-houses; Soli¬ tude, best. In July and August advisable to write or telegraph for rooms.) The houses are scattered irregularly on the rt. slope, the Ache ruthing down in their midst, and plunging in 2 falls to a depth of nearly 500 ft. The house of the late Archduke Jolm, new, lies below the road, with a terrace and garden for Alpine idants. There are many pretty points of view and shady walks. Tlie old ch. of St. Nicolas and its grave¬ yard are worth a visit. The Hot springs, which have made the place famous, are 7 in number; one of them, the Wasser- fallquelle, springs out of the bed of the Ache, and its water is used as a bath for horses. They were dis¬ covered in 680. The celebrated Paracelsus in i6th centy. spread their reputation, and ever since they have been increasingly fre¬ quented, and have been visited by most of the sovereigns of Europe. Season is during July and August. The princiiDal are those of the Scbloss, and at Straubinger’s, and there is a free establishment for the poor. Heat at the fountain is II5 to 120 Fahr. The princi¬ pal chemical ingredients are car¬ bonate of soda and carbonate of lime, but the water is pure and tasteless, and its efficiency is sup¬ posed to consist in its very great capacity for electricity. The springs are especially recom¬ mended for all chronic and nerv¬ ous diseases. The water has a singular effect ujjon withered flowers, to which it restores even the smell. The Conferva Thermalis, used in cure of wounds, grows upon the surface of the water, where it is allowed to flow over the ground, as at Bareges in the Pyrenees. The situation of Gastein is highly pleasing, among its wooded hills and in the midst of the abrupt rise from the Hof Gastein “Boden” to the 2nd or Bockstein Boden above. Walks are cut on all sides, and there are many. Excursions. a. BocJcstein (3713 ft.), a vill. 3 m. above Gastein in the 2nd of the valley levels, an expanse of green pastures. Ch. on a hill, and good Inn. It is the place where the stamping jirocess, formerly carried on at the mines above, is now performed, and the officials live here. The mines are in h. The Radhausherg) (8803 ft.), opposite the vill. on the S. They are very ancient; were worked by the Taurisci as well as the Romans, and afterwards by the Venetians. Not very productive now. An easy horse-track as¬ cends to them in 2| lirs., and there is a foot-path. Descent is made in a car, let down by a wind- 83 Bte. 20 l.~BAD GA8TEIN to OB. VELLACH. 84 lass, on an average slope of 33°, a distance of 4200 ft., to a j^oint ^ hr. from Bockstein. TJie Christoplier Mine (nearly 7000 ft.),_ usually visited, runs m. tlirougli the mt., and issues above the Nassfeld basin, with a fine view. The summit of the Ead- hausberg, Kreuzkogl, is hr. above the mouth of this mine. 0. The Anlauftlial oj^ens at foot of the Eadhausberg E., and ends in very fine scenery at foot of the Ankogel. See Ete. 201. d. The Nassfeld Basin, sur¬ rounded by wild scenery, is reached up the defile of the Ache from Bockstein. Several waterfalls on the way. See Ete. 201. e. The Fochharttlial, a liigli valley, branches from the above W. at the Schleier Fall; once famous for its silver-mines : it contains 2 lakes, which feed the Fall. View striking on enter¬ ing. /. _ The Sieglitzthal, entered by side of the Sieglitz Waterfall, from the Moser Chalet in the Nassfeld Basin; it leads in 3 hrs. to a col, the Hifflschorte (^8102 ft.), A noble view of snowy peaks foi-ward. Descent to a bridle-path, leading to Im Kolben, in the Eauriserthal, where it joins a track over the Goldzecher Tauern (Ete. 244) to Heiligenblut in 13 to 14 hrs. There is sometimes difficult ice on the Eauris side; a good guide required, pav 8 fl. A second track, more difficult, leads from Im Kolben to the Berghaus, and thence by 3 dif¬ ferent passes — the Eraganter Tauern. Klein Zirlmitzscliarte, and Bramerscliarte, severally down to Fragant, Dbllach, and Pockhorn (Ete. 244) in the Mbllthal. Ex¬ tensive views from summits. g. From Bad Gastein the KdtschacMlial ' E. is full of water¬ falls, and makes a fine day’s excursion. See above. li. Ascent of the GamsJcar- liogl described above. Rte. 201 .—BAD GASTEIN to OB. VELLACH, by the NASS¬ FELD TAUEKN, or PASS of MALNITZ. BAD GASTEIN" to exg. m, hes, Bockstein .... ? j * Nassfeld .... _ j Malnitz ... _ -r Ob-Vellach. ... 5 2 A rough bridle-rd., pretty well marked, and needing no guide except in mist; a little snow even in summer near the summit. Good cotfee, bread, and cheese can be had at Nassfeld, and at the Taueni- haus, a rude, stone building just beyond Bie summit. Travellers can sleep at Bockstein, and obtain horses or guides there. The easiest route across the Noric Chain, and tlie most direct course between Salzburg and Oarinthia. By no means equall- ing in grandeur or interest the Eauriser Pass to the W. (Rte. 244), but ofteringfiue views from basin of Nassfeld, the siunmit, and on the descent S. From Gastein the road to Bockstein, is taken. (Rte.l hr. 200.) Inn: good. I ! 85 Ete. 201 .—BAD GA8TEIN to OB. VELLACH. ' 86 [The Anlaufthal here opens S.E. between the Radhausberg S. and the Stuhl N., and extend¬ ing 4 hrs. to the Ankogel, the dominant peak of the district. It offers an alternative Rte. to Malnitz, and is the more ancient of the two. Keep to 1 . ba nk of stream. At about hr. a fine ampitheatre of jDreci- pices, the JlielcaJir, opens out, surrounding a green Alp. From the huts are 2 paths to Mal¬ nitz. a. Ascends the precipices on the rt. to the Hiehahr Aim, and passing 2 tarns reaches the summit, whence the descent leads into the Malnitzer Rte., about 1 hr. above Malnitz. h. Is the old Roman and mediaeval road, and with much finer views. Keep up the valley i hr. to the Tauern Fall, then turn rt. by a red cross and through wood; in hr. fragments of the old road are seen. i hr. further over loose and steep debris a second portion of road is met with, which is near the summit or Korntauern{^o^^ii.). Fi'eiosuperb, Ankogel (10,6 73 ft.), with glaciers to 1., and a fine array of snow peaks, including the Gross Glockner and the Wies or Visch- bachhorn rt. The descent is into the Seethal (the stream of which it crosses) to Malnitz. For ascent of the Anlcoqel see below. From Eockstein the track ascends the rt. bank of the Ache, passing the curious inclined plane by which wood is drawn up to the Radhausberg gold-mines. The valley becomes a narrow rocky defile. Wild Grahen, with several waterfalls. 1 hr. The Kessel Fall is the first, but the most beautiful is The Schleier Fall, like a veil of gauze, 400 ft. coming from the Pockhart, see above. The ScharrecJc, a fine snow peak (10,45 3 ft.), here comes into view. Then, after crossing A Bridge, and leaving a track leading to the Pockhartthal to rt., the basin of Nassfeld (5304 ft.) is entered, 2 hrs. green, treeless, and level. The Ache flows in numerous wind¬ ings at the bottom, and snow peaks rise above the verdant walls of the basin. About 20 huts lie scattered about; at 3— Straubinger’s, Moser’s, and Kra¬ mer’s—coffee, butter, milk, and cheese may be had. It obtained its name of “wet field ” {Campus hicmidus) as early as the 8th centy. Its mines are among the oldest in the Alps, and were worked by the Taurisci; after¬ wards by the Romans. Many rare plants may be gathered, among others Sicertia or Pleu- rogyne carinthiaca. The violet- scented moss, Byssus jolithus, is ' abundant, as also in the Anlauf¬ thal. From the furthest hut the track ascends the S.E. corner of the basin up a breast of the hill between two ravines to the sum¬ mit of a Spur, whence is a fine view, 1 hr. ooking backwards, of Nassfeld. The path then ascends a slope to the Tauern or Col (8038 ft.), l|hr. a slight depression in the ridge. In contrast to the other passes over this chain, it offers a wide view S. (more extensive by climbing ridge E. of the Col), down the Malnitzthal, with the 87 Rte. 202 .~BAD GASTEINto SALZBURG by the PINZGAU. 88 Tergloii and Blangert, the highest peaks of the Julian Alps, in the horizon. Gross Glockner, &c., W. Immediately below Col is The Tauernhaus (refreshments and a hay bed). Descent, chiefly over fine meadow, to the Manhart Alp; a collection of swineherds’ huts (^interesting ^plants on the way), thence a steep descent into the ravine, and path through woods, all the way to o|hr. Malnitz (3816 ft.), {Inn: small, but comfortable), small vill. at junction of the Seethal with the Malnitz valley. [At this point the old Ete. of the Korn Tauern, still called the Ileiden Weg (heathen road) comes in. See above.J Ascent of the Anhogel is made from Malnitz by 2 rtes. (a) The longer, but easier, is up the Seebachthal, but turns 1 . before reaching the Stapitz See; keeps N. up a lateral valley to the,Lucke- thorl, or saddle, 4 hrs.; climbs the steep Tromwand to the foot of the Ankogel Glacier, or Grau- leitenhees, i hr.; crosses this to summit of the Kleiner Anhogel, ijhr., and then along a narrow ridge to the Ankogel peak, i hr. (h) From Malnitz to the last chalet at head of the Seebachthal (hay bed and a meal ); then 1. to the Trom valley r hr.; keep up it to the Glacier, ij hr.; cross it ’to rt., IJ hr.; then straight to the Ankogel. Eopes may be neces¬ sary for this last rte., as well as Steigeisen. The Ankogel is the central knot of 4 ridges, and the view comprises a great extent of the snow and glacier of the high Noric chain, and includes also the Carnic and Julian Alps. View from the Schareck is alone superior. The valley now turns S., and the bridle track is succeeded by a very rough char-road; i-horse carts can be got at the Inn, but better to walk. 2 hrs, Ob. Vellach {Inns : Post, pass- or 5 m able; Pacher, dear), a small town in the Mdllthal upon a good rd., where a post carriage can be obtained either, to Wink- lern, 22 m. on way to Heiligen- blut, or down to Spital in the Brave valley, 24 m. Ete. 244. Rte. 202. — BAD GASTEIN to SALZBURG, by ZELL-AM- SEE and the MITTER PINZ¬ GAU. BAD GASTEIN to EXG. M. Lend ... 21 Zell-am-See . 15 Lofer ... 26 ENG, 3r. Keichenliall . 17 Salzburg , , 11 90 It is a cross road between Lend and Lofer, but a very good one, and furnished with post-horses. The principal charm of this road is the valley of the Saalach between Zell and Eeichenhall, and the traveller who has ascended 89 Ilte. 202 .~BAD GASTEINto SALZBURG hy the PINZGAU. 90 the nearly parallel valley of the Salzach, on his way to Bad Gas- teiu, can with advantage return by this to Salzburg, especially if he diverge from it to Berchtes- gaden. From Bad Gastein, through 7 m. Hof Gastein, to 1-1 m. Lend, see Ete. 200. Here, turning W., the traveller ascends that part of the valley of the Sal¬ zach called the Pongau. It is a narrow and picturesque defile to 5 m. Taxenbach (Inn: Beim Tax- wirth, small hut good, and reason¬ able). I hr. S., at entrance of the Eauristhal, is a curious cascade, itself nothing, hut ap¬ proached by 2 galleries in the solid rock and through very romantic scenery. Tlie stream at the fall has cut for itself a singular passage. The galleries belong to a long since abandoned gold-mine. The valley is now termed the Unt. Pinzgau. From 5 m. The Chapel of St. Georg, on a hill, is a fine view 1 m. Hunsdorf (good Inn), and 1 m. Brack (Inn: Von Mayr’s, good), are passed, the latter at entrance of the Fusch Thai (see Etc. 230),' and the road enters upon the Zeller AIoos, a very unhealthy morass at the opening of the valley of Zell N., and caused by the dribbling of the water of the Lake of Zell towards the Salza. Upon an eminence to rt. is the Castle of Fischhorn, with a fine view, while across the valley S. is seen the ancient one oiKaprun. A little further the rd., leaving that of the valley, turns N. on the W. side of the lake to Zell-am-See (Inn: Bran, 3 clean). The addition of am-See distinguishes this vill. from Zell in the Zillerthal. It is beauti¬ fully situated on a tongue of land, and above the malaria. From hill behind is a fine view of the snowy Noric Alps S., and of the limestone masses N. The mt, opposite, on E. shore of lake, the Hundstein (6946 ft.), oflers a much grander view. Ascent in 3 to 4 hrs. Post-omnibus daily to Lofer. Leaving the lake, and pass¬ ing through Rent, the rd. presently Crosses the Saalach, which issues from the Glemthal, W., passes through Kirchheim and other vills., and re-crosses the Saalach to Saalfelden (Inns: Auerwirth 9 and Timmeiiwirth), 1000 Inhab., principal place of the Mitter Pinzgau, with a ch. tower more than 200 ft. high. Several ruined castles adorn the neighbouring heights ; that of Lichtenberg has a chapel and hermitage hewn in the rock. The Gross Glockner is finely seen S. [By the valley to the W. is a rd. leading to St. Johann, on post-road from Innsbruck to Salzburg. On the E. is a cir¬ cuitous rd., probably interest¬ ing, skirting the foot of the Steinerne Meer, and leading to Lend. Over the Steinerne Meer N. is a wild path to the Konigssee, Ete, 199 A.] 91 Rte. 203 .— SALZKAMMEBGUT. 02 Leaving Saalfelden, the road soon enters a wild romantic glen, the Pinzgauer Hohlweg. In the midst of it the Dieshach makes a pretty ivaterfall. At its exit is the hamlet of OJm. Frohnwies (Inn: very good), and next is the pretty vill. anc chiu’ch of 1 m. Ober Weissbach. [Here a car riage-road turns off and ascends the fine pass of Hirschhiihel (3896 ft.)—noble view of serrated lime¬ stone ranges. Austrian Custom¬ house and good Inn on summit. Descends hy the Hinterseerthal and Eamsau to BercJitesgaden (Ete. 199 a), and thus offers a much more interesting, though longer, route to Salzburg, than by Lofer. f hr. walk along this road from Weissbach is the extraordinary ravine called the Seissenherg Klam. A finger-post, with “ Gehe und Staune” on 1. of rd., points it out. A staircase leads to a wooden gallery carried a few feet above a stream, and ending in front of a small waterfall. It is a most curious scene. The toiTent-bed is worn down 50 or 60 ft., twists in a very extra¬ ordinary manner, and is hollowed out in most singular basins or well-holes. The gallery is to enable woodmen to extricate drift timber destined for the Eeichen- hall saltworks. There is a similar Klam still more grotesque near Unken. See Ete. 229.] sides. A narrower portion is called the Luftenstein Pass. The rd. joins the Innsbruck and Salzburg post-road at Lofer (Inns ; Hackel-Wirth ; 6 m. beim JBrauer; Post); see Ete. 229 for rest of the way through Eeichenhall to Salzburg. Ete. 199. 17 m 11 m ute. 203.— The SALZKAM- MERGUT: LINZ, or LAM- BACH, to ISCHL, HALL- STATT, and ATJSSEE. LINZ to Lam bach. Gmunden Ischl . . ENG. ir. . . i8f . Hi Hallstatt. ENG. M. 75 f The road now crosses to the 1 . or W. bank of the Saalach, and the Hohlweg valley becomes very beautiful; smooth lawns dotted with plum-trees along the bottom and wooded mountains on the The Salzburg Ely. as far as Lambach, and then a branch to Gmunden; trains twice a day. Steamer on Lake of Gmun¬ den to Ebensee i hr.; dil. to Ischl 2 hi’s,; omnibus and steamer to Hallstatt. The Salzhammergut (see In- trod. Inf.) is a delightful resort for the tourist, the invalid, or the sportsman. The best approach to it is undoubtedly from the N. as here given; the mts. culmi- Dachstein rise in every step. The the lovely nating in the grandeur at whole rte. ascends Ute. 2Q^.-~Tlie SALZKAMMEltGUT. ' 94 xxdun, WHICH may be further allowed to its source in Styria, Bte. 240. From Linz (see Rte. igO bv rail through^Wels to Lambach Junction (Jnn ; large s | m dhe liy. speedily crosses the jaun, passes the singular ch. 01 Jjaura, and continues mi the rt. bank, The great object on the fe horizon is the Traunstein, the outline of which is compared to the upturned jirofile of Louis to the rt. of it appear the gjaciers of the Thorstein and the Itollengebirge, and to the l. the Todtegebirge. Near Eoitham Stat. are the Falls ofl 111. the Iraun (better to take a car. trom Lambach to Gmunden, 6 fl. a.nd see the falls by the way; 7 m. from Lambach and 9 froni Gmunden). m. to the falls, 13 tt., formed by two oblique earners of conglomerate, riven ind jagged. “Though not so as Terni, nor so large as 5 chaflhausen, yet, from its perfect dearness and harmony of sur- ounding objects, it ranks high mong waterfalls.’’- Should be een from the little house above, fom the bridge, and from the ocks below. A small Inn. A urious canal runs at the side for le descent of the salt barges •om Gmunden, which are passed t a fixed hour, ii a.m., when ley rush through with amazing docity. The miller at the falls p, for 70 kr., turn all the water ‘ the canal over the falls—worth tying for if the season be dry, load hence is through fir woods —id neat vills,, running between 95 ■ate. 203.—The SALZKA:\DIEJRGUT. the rail and the river, which it crosses to Gmunden; hut the pedestrian will find a jDictui- esque track on the 1. hank of the Traun, 3 hrs.) Baihcay makes a sweep to avoid a hill just before reaching the lake and town of llfm, Gmunden {Inns: side of the lake, Schift'; Goldener Bruimen, good and reasonable; Sonne, good and civil. In the town, Goldener Adler, good). Car to Traun Fall and hack, 4/. Small town romantically situated, at N. end of the Gmunden, or Traun See, ' neat and prettj’ place; principal depot of salt. About i m. 'SV. of the town is a little island, 50 yds. from the shore, with a pictm'esque castle. The Calvarienherg, i hr. behind the town, oflers an exten¬ sive view. Pappenheim defeated the peasants here in 1626, and so crushed a formidable Protestant insiu-rection. The Gmunden See, 9 m. long, is surrounded at the lower end by undulating hills dotted with trees and houses, at the upper by high precipices and dark fir woods, above which are glimpses of the snowy Dachstein. Eising from the lake on the E. is the majestic Traimstein {ss}7 ft.), with its precipice towards the lake, and forming the great fea¬ ture of the scene : ascent difficult, 4 hi*s. On the AV. side the prin¬ cipal hill is the Soimenstein. There is a road (to Langbath) along the AV. bank only. Steamers from May to October run be¬ tween Gmunden and Ebeiisee twice each waj’. Take ticket for both boat and carriage to Ischl. I'ai'e is sovietimes asked for tn-ice over. CSarriages are con¬ veyed on the steamers or towed in boats. In crossing the lake, Altmiinster, 9G with a very old ch., is passed W., and next Ehenzweier, a chateau, the favourite residence of the late Archduke Max. of Este. Traun- kirchen (good Inn : Sulzl) is upon a projecting promontory, the finest spot on the lake. SceneiT be¬ comes wild and grand after this. Steamers land at Langbath AA’. bank; suburb of 9 ni Ebensee, on E. do., where the Traun enters the lake. {Inn: Post, homely). A boom here stops the floating timber, and vast staeks of it stand on the shore used for the great evaporatmg- house here, to which the brine from Hallstatt and Ischl is brought in pipes. In Ebensee is a mill using a peculiar saw for manufactm-e of the ban-els in which the salt is packed. ^The Langbath Thai opens AA”. ; a good rd. leads up it ji hr. to a wooded lake; take boat to a solitary hunting-box (there is a rough path, however, along 1. bank), and k hi-, beyond is a second lake in a rocky amphi¬ theatre, wooded, and with a fine view. ^ The Ildllengehirge form the S. side of the valley, extending from the Traun See to the Atter See. The Eranahithsattel, a depres¬ sion at their E. end, is ascended in 3 hrs. from the Erehr Alp in its lower portion : panorama, one of the best, includes 11 lakes.] The drive is beautiful up the valley of the Traun under the Hollengebirge rt. On the oppo¬ site side The Offensee Thai opens E. 4 m, [with a good rd. leading in 3 hrs. to a lake of same name, where is an Imperial hunting-lodge.] 97 Bte. 'im.—The SALZKA:\niERGUT. 9S Below this, on the same side, the precipices of the Hohe Schrott line the valley. These form the western end of that vast limestone plateau, the Todte Gehirge. 4 m. A Road is passed rt. [leading over a low watershed to the Attersee, 2 hrs.], and the beautiful wooded basin opens, in Avhich is placed 34 m. Ischl. (Inns; Bauer’s Hotel, on the Calvarienberg: unequalled for situation, but the charo’cs high. Hr. B. speaks English. Kaiserin Elizabeth, fine house, rebuilding after fire ; Post, good’ but dear; Kreuz, excellent and moderate. 2nd class : Erzherzog Franz Karl; Baierischer Hot^ Stern). Plenty of lodgings. Tariff of carriages will be foimd in the Inns. Till 1822 Ischl was only a small market town at the jimc- tion of the Ischl steeam with the Traun; since then it has become a most fashionable waterin o’¬ Place, spreading its white houses all over the green plain and up the wooded slopes. Mts. sm-- round it on all sides, and 5 or 6 valleys radiate as from a cenfr-al point. The present Empress was beti-othed at Ischl, and it is a fiivourite resort of the Imperial family. There is a Theatre, Casino (with reading-room), and Baths, a handsome building with a colonnade, where tchey from cow, goat, and ewe milk, and mineral waters are drunk. Crowded from 7 to 8 a.m., when a band plays. Saline vapour baths are in use; also Mud baths from salt slime; and there is a good swimming bath. Protestant service on Sundavs at Goisem. Kp. Tyr, & Alps, Best points of Yieio are— The Imperial Garden at the back of the villa, built by the present Emperor: a most de¬ lightful spot with the finest ;new in Ischl, including the Bach stem. The Calvarienberg (W. of the town), and beyond it _ The ruins of Wildenstein Schloss • view nearly as far as lake of Omumden. The Carolinen Panorama be¬ hind the bridge on the road to Ebensee. Short Excursions. The Koloivrat Thurm, hr. up, I hr. doTNTi. The Bettenbaeh Mill, hi-s. • and Wildniss, i hr., up a glen fe.E.: a charming walk (which may be prolonged over the rido-e to Aussee, 5 hrs. from Ischl, lo return by the rd.\ By the Eesselbach Bavine to the Koth Aim, 3 hrs. View of the Dachstem and 3 lakes. Return oyer Tnixlegg to Rettenbach Mill. By the Salzberg, S., i hr., rd. by way of Berneck; contains the salt-mines, similar to those of Hallein. See Rte. 2co. ^^i^mitz (5071 ft.). A mt. A.W. between the roads to St ^olfgang and the Attersee, affords a fine panorama. Ascend by the Ischl Thai and up the Lagergraben; and descend by the Ziemitz M ildniss : 5 hi's. up and 4 down. The Eater Spitz (475 7 ft.), oppo¬ site the Ziemitz, on the S., is another point: go by the Eussen see, hr., peak is 3 hrs. further. Guides may be heard of at Edlinger and Hirsch’s, Sessel Triiger OflBce, and ai e paid 2 fl. a day. E 99 nte.. 2m.—The 8ALZKAMMEBGUT, 100 Longer Excursions are—■ (а) . Lahe of JIallstatt, i day. See below. (б) . The beautiful Gosau Lahes, I day; start at 6; car. with 2 horses to the Smith’s Inn (beyond Gosau) and back 8^ 11 . ; walk to Vorder See and back, 2 hrs.; Hinter See, 4 hrs. more. See Ete. 204. Take provisions. (c) . The Wolfgang Lake, on Salzburg-road, i day. See on the way the Wirers Waterfall, the Schwarzen See, and Wirers Struh (digression of 3 hrs.). St.Wolfgang is 2 hrs. drive from Isciil. See Ete. 240. (d) . Ascent of the Schafberg (5836 ft.), 3 hrs. from St. Wolf¬ gang. Inn at the top. On no account omit this, as the ’pano¬ rama is wonderful. See Ete. 240. (e) . Aussee, in Styria, lOJm.; 4 hrs. drive from Ischl: 3 days of delightful scenery, ist day, see lakes of Grundl and Aussee {sleep at Alt Aussee, good Inn). 2nd day, visit Teplitzersee and Kammer- see. 3rd day return. (Ete. 240.) (/). Gmunden See and Falls of the Traun, i day. See above. By car. and steamboat. Dine at Gmunden. (p) Chorinskyklause, 7 m., go by Lauffen. A timber dam opened once a week, as announced beforehand in Ischl. See below. (/i). The Attersee is reached by a good rd. Turning off from the Ebensee-road, about 3 m. below Ischl, it crosses a low pass and reaches the lake, 9 m., at Weissen¬ bach ; excellent Lin. The lake is about 15 m. long, only interesting at its upper end. There is a rd. only along the E, shore, Ischl to Hallstatt. From Ischl, the rd., first cross¬ ing the Traun, continues up its beautiful valley on rt. bank to Lauffen. {Inn: Zum Weissenl m. Eossl.) The valley is here shut in by cliffs, and there is a fall of the Traun. The town is the oldest in the district. Ancient Gothic ch. [The valley of the Weissenbacli opens W.; bridge over the Traun, steep ascent ; at i hr. is the Chorinsky Klause. See above.] Goisern (Inns: good), a Pro- 2 ^m testant village, and ch. with Protestant service. Scenery be¬ comes bolder, and the Hallstatt Lake comes in view. The Eoad divides. 1 m. [That to 1 . crosses a pass to Aussee, and is the highway into Styria. Ete. 240.] The other, a countiy road, leads down to Steg {Inn: good), at the point 2 m. where the Traun issues from the Lake of Hallstatt, 5 m. in length, 1 broad; grand and solemn, stretching to the foot of the great mass of the Dachstein S., where the precipices scarcely leave room for a path. On the W. towers the Blassenstein, and on the E. the Sarstein. The Traun flows through it from Aussee, entering at its S.E. corner under the Dachstein. There is a small steamer’in connection with the Ischl omnibus, and boats witli 2 rowers each can be had at Steg or the Gosau mill, i^m. further, where is nn Inn carriages can drive to. Gosau Mill occupies a pro¬ montory on W. shore. [From this point the rd. no 101 ate. 203.—The 8ALZKAMWIEBGUT. 102 more follows the shore, but tui'iis off W. to Gosau, Abtenau, and Golling. See Kte. 204.] 5 m. Hallstatt ^1769 ft.). (Tnns' Seeaiier; Post; both on the lake ; fair. Delicious fish.) Vill. of 1400 Inhab., 900 of them’ Piotestants (Lutheran CJi.); sin¬ gularly situated; houses stuck like swallows’ nests against the steejD ^ side of the mt.; stair¬ cases instead of streets; no com¬ munication with it but by boats or mountain paths. Ch. ancient and remarkable ; a double nave ; fine view from its terrace. Sun is never seen from Nov. to Feb. Pretty sight on Sunday morning to see the boats crossing to ch on all sides. The Salt-ioorhs, 5 hr. along the shore, are very large. See Introd., Sect. 2. Excursions, (а) . The Hirsclibrunn and the Kessel are 2 singular intermittent springs, not far beyond the salt¬ works. (б) . The Waldhach Strub, chief waterfall in the Salzkammergut, m. up the beautiful valley of Echern, behind Hallstatt. 3 falls. The first is 300 ft. high, but the middle foil is the most pictur¬ esque. Some 200 yds. from the fill towards Hallstatt, a path 1. leads to an extraordinary staircase up the face of a rock. From the top through a pine forest, i hr., to a miners’ vill., and thence easy descent to Rudolfs Tower. From waterfall to Hallstatt this wav. 4 hrs. (c). Budolfs Toiver, 1150 ft. above the lake, on a projecting rock ; erected by Emj). Albert, 1284, to defend the salt-mines against the Archbp. of Salz- buig, and named after Rudolf or Habsburg. Ascent is by an almost continuous staircase, h hr. Manager of the mines resides in It, and there is an interesting collection —fossils, minerals Cel- tic and Roman antiquities, &c. 050 Celtic graves have been opened near, probably of Celtic miners. Descent may be made by a charming walk, 2I hrs., down to the Gosau Mill on the lake. _ {d). The Salt-mines are 500 ft, Ingher than Rudolf’s Tower, and the highest level is 4000 ft. above sea. For mode of working see Introd. and Hallein : Rte. 200. _ (e). The Blassenstein, 6300 ft «ses W. of Hallstatt. Rudolfs lower,_ occupying one of its spurs, is j^assed on the ascent, 4 hrs. m all. Kee|) some dis¬ tance W. along the plateau be¬ yond the tower, and then work • uji the rocky steeps, always bearing 1. to the final peak, whence is one of the grandest views of the district. if). To the Ilintersee, the up- peimost of the Gosau lakes, is a laborious walk of 10 hrs. fiW Hallstatt, but one of the grandest and wildest in these mts^ 5 hrs to the summit of the Verfallenes ' Alp, noble views of the Dachstein. On descent, the Hintersee lies be¬ low like a tm-quoise. (Rte. 204.) (p). To the Vordersee is an easier and lower path, working round S. and W. of the Blassen¬ stein. {h). To Aussee, 9 m. (boat to E. end of tke lake), and i m. further IS Oder Traun (vill. of 400 Inhab.), where a char may be hired for Aussee, up the ravine of the Traun by a good rd. between the Sarstein 1. and the Kopjien- E 2 Bte. 203 .—The SALZKAMMERGUT. 104 102 stein rt. In tlie latter is a re¬ markable cavern, the Koppen- briiller, occasionally illuminated and visited from Hallstatt (there and back in 4 hrs.). Aussee is in Styria, described Ete. 240. (A private car. can wait either at Aussee or Steg while the traveller visits Hallstatt.) To ascend the Sarstein (6558 ft.), cross the lake to Kalkofen and climb by the Schanze to the Sarstein Alp, where you can sleep. Panorama from the summit is admirable. (^). The Dachstein Glaciers offer the grandest excursion from Hall¬ statt. The Dachstein is a _ general term applied to a vast limestone plateau, one of a series of isolated groups stretching from the Vor- arlberg on the W., along the S. side of the valley of Inn through Salzburg, and eastward almost to Vienna. The mts. of Berchtes- gaden and the Tannengebirge in Salzburg belong to this series, and are the immediate neighbours of the Dachstein on the W. The Tod- tegebirge form the next group on theE. The Dachstein plateau rises to a precipice on its S. edge, with an average height of 8000 ft.; towards the N. it sinks to about 5500 ft. The 3 highest points are the Dachstein proper, the corner-stone of Styria, Salz¬ burg, and Austria; the Klein Dachstein, and the Thorstein, all at S.W. corner of the mass; but there are many others, mostly very difficult of access. There are 2 glaciers streaming N. and N.W. from the Hohe Dachstein. The first, called Karls Kisfeld, in honour of a visit from the Arch¬ duke Charles in 1812, is the one usually visited. Upon the Plateau are upwards of 50 chalets, which are more substantial than those of the W. Alps, and usually very clean. The sparse pasture is exceedingly nourishing, and the butter of the Dachstein is celebrated. From Hallstatt to the Dach¬ stein, go by the Walbach Strub or by the Salzberg, and, passing through a rocky wilderness called the Thiergarten, make for the Ochsenivies Alp (6023 ft.), 5 hrs., where Seeauer of Hallstatt has built a hut which supplies night quarters, &c. . (Beyond, is the ascent to the Ochsenivies JIdhe, a ridge which offers the first near view of the Dachstein; in I hr. from the hut the Tauben Kahr is reached, and i hr. fur¬ ther brings to the Klinger’s Hohe, which overlooks the glacier, and is a fine point of view). From Ochsenwies hut it is i J hr. to the edge of the glacier, at the upper- end of which is the peak of the Dachstein. ' The ascent of this is now made comparatively easy by a ladder left at the Bergschrund at its foot, and by iron rings and ropes up the peak itself (helps provided by Prof. Simony, the chief explorer of the Daclistein): the summit (9841 ft.) is reached from the Bergschrund in J hr. The expedition is frequently made, and a mule-track is making to the Ochsenwies Alp. ( 7 r). Another route to the Dach¬ stein is from Ober Traun, by Wiiikl, to Ober Schafeck Alp, 2| lirs.; thence to the Krippen brunn (whence is a track 1. by the Loiver Gjaidstein and Kop- peneck to Kamsau and Schlad- ming in the Ennsthal). The track then leads rt, in 3 hrs., to the huts of the desolate Gjaid Alp (5392 ft.). 2 hrs. further is the Taubenkahr, mentioned above. 105 Bte. m.~^LAKE of HALLSTA TT to 8 ALZJB UR G. 100 Guides: Karl Scliupfen and Loj'dl of Ilallstatt are the two best, also Stocker and Zauner. Ordinary pay 2 fl. per day, except for the iJachstein, for which 2 guides are always required. ( l ) . From tlie Gjaid Alp tlie Kripijenstein (6960 ft.) may be ascended in 3 hrs: central point for View over tlie whole Dach- stein Plateau. (m) . In 1866 Mr. Tuckett, after ascending the Dachstein from the Ochsenwies Alp, made a descent to Kamsau and Schladming in the Ennsthal, by crossing a de¬ pression in the ridge above the S.E. angle of the Kaiis-Eisfeld glacier (Hohe Gjaidstein Joch, 8500 to 9000 ft.). Time : Col to end of glacier J hr.; thence to brow overlooking Kamsau hr.; to Kamsau ch. hr.; and i hr. to Schladming. Rte. 204. — The LAKE of HALLSTATT to GOLLINK and SALZBURG, by GOSAU and ABTENAU. HALLSTATT to ENG. M. Gosau . . 6 Abtenau . . ir Golling . .11 Salzburg . ENG. M. . ^ 47 A decent country road, but occasionally rough and steep. A visit to the Gosau Lakes requires a detour of a few miles and must be partly done on foot or horseback. This rte. leads through a fine tract of country; and if a visit to the Gosau lalces be included, tlie traveller will be highly rewarded. Lying between two arms of the Dachstein they offer as noble a piece of scenery as any in the Salzkanimergut. The descent of the Lammerthal, beyond Ab¬ tenau, along the N. foot of the Tannengebirge, is also striking. From Hallstatt vill. the pedes- trian may cross to the Gosau lakes by way of Kudolf’s Tower, the Plankenstein Alp, and the “quarry,” 5, hrs., but a carriage must start from Gosau Mill, on the Hallstatt lake. {Inn). 5 mins, from this the rd. passes under the Gosau- zwmig, an aqueduct 130 ft. high, conveying the brine from Hall¬ statt to Ebensee. The road ascends steeply a narrow and picturesque glen, down which rushes the Gosau- bach, (geology of the rocks here is interesting), and finally opens upon the verdant valley of Gosau, backed by the pinnacles of the Donnerkogel (6748 ft.) and Zor- nigkogel, belonging to the great Dachstein mass, “ a gorgeous serrated barrier.” The valley formerly belonged to Salzburg, then to Styria. Inhab. chiefiy Protestants in scattered groups of houses. Vorder Gosau (7455 ft.). (Jwn;G Brandwirth, uncivil and dear.) [At this point the rd. tq the Gosau lakes turns off, and ascends to Hinter Gosau, 2| m.; Inn, Beim Schmied, rough, but civil and moderate, 6 beds: rd. ends here, and horses can be obtained. The smith and his brother are good guides. 107 Rte. 204 :.—LAKE of IIALL 8 TATT to SALZBURG. 108 2 m. or I hr, of further ascent leads to the Voi-der See, a beau¬ tiful lake, with precipices on either side, and in the back¬ ground the glaciers and peak of tlio Thorstein (9657 ft.): best point of view is a shed near the Klausenliaus. A boat may sometimes be had; if not, a path goes on the W. side, through wood, and then climbs 1000 ft. higher, i hr., to the Ilinter See (4077 ft.), of a peculiar pale green colour, set in a solemn majestic scene under the Thorstein. There is a hut beyond, where it is possible to sleep before ascend¬ ing the glaciers in the morning. The smith provides fuel and pro¬ visions. The ascent of the Dach- stein can also be made in this direction in 5 hrs.; quicker than from Hallstatt, but with more danger.j [The ascent of the Zwieselalp is a frequent excursion from the Smith’s Inn, at Hinter Gosau, an easy climb of 2^ hrs., practicable for horses; view splendid. The Tannengebh’ge rt., the Dachstein 1 ., and in the distance S. the high Noric chain. Descent may be made to Abtenau in 3 hrs.J From Vorder Gosau the road ascends the wooded gorge leading to Pass Geschiitt, or Gsohied (3246 ft.). Inn on the summit, which is the frontier of Salzburg. Pass¬ ing through vill. of 3 m. Russbach, where the cele¬ brated Gosau fossils may be ob¬ tained, the rd. descends into the Lammerthal, crosses its stream, and reaches Abtenau. f {Inns ; Post; Gol- 8 m. dene Ochse, both good). A small cheerful town at the foot of tho Tannengebirge (which can bo ascended from this point), and in the midst of a quiet pastoral valley. High up in the face of the Tannengebirge is seen its largest cave, the Frauenloch. [A road leads S, into the Styrian post rd,, between Hiittau and Rad- stadt.] [The BichlfaUin the Au I’hal, is reached by a path from Abte¬ nau in 11 hr. N.; curious cavities in the bed of tho stream are passed fsimilar to the “Oefen,” near Gelling), and at the water¬ fall a woodman perilously hanging by a rope is frequently employed to detach the logs caught on their descent. A pedestrian can reach Golling hence in 3 lus.] From Abtenau the road climbs the ridge of the Strupherg before reaching again the Lammer, which (an Imi, near) it crosses by A long bridge. The valley 4 m. is now very picturesque, but soli¬ tary, the Tannengebirge rising forest-clothed on the S. At Scheffau is an interesting old 4 m, ch. of the 14th cent, with pic¬ tures by AVohlgemuth, a pupil of Albert Durer. The rd. enters the Salzburg post-rd. a little above Golling. {Inn: Post, fair.) 3 m. See Rte. 200. Hence to Salzburg, Rte. 195. 19 m. SECTION III. --*<>«- TYEOL AND VOEAELBERG. INTEODUCTORY INFORMATION. Boundaries of the Provinces .— Northern Tyrol :— Scenery — Inhabit¬ ants—History .— The Central Alpine Eange: —The Oetz Thai, Stubay Thai, and Ziller Thai Mountain Groups .— The Noric Range.—Roads over the Main Chain. —S. E. Tyrol; —The Dolo¬ mite Mountains—The Four chief Dolomite Valleys — Inhabitants. —S.W. Tyrol :— Orteler, Adamello, and Brenta Alta Groups .— Tours through Tyrol. route col. 211 Feldkirch to Coii’e, by the Luziensteig . .127 212 Bregenz, on the Lake of Constance, to Inns¬ bruck, by the Arlberg . .129 212A Bregenz to Eeutte, by the Bregenzer Wald and Lech Thai. . .144 213 Innsbruck to Landeck, Meran, and Botzen, by the Finstermunz Pass . 151 214 Milan to Innsbruck, by the Pass of the Stelvio (Stilfser Joch) . , .164 214A Bormio to Male, in Val di Sole . . . 183 215 The Oetz Thai, Pitz Thai, and Kauns Thai. Innsbruck to Meran, by the Timbler Joch; or by the Fender Thai and Hoch Joch or Nie- der Joch . . . .189 215 A The Stubay Thai. Inns¬ bruck to the Oetzthal 208 216 Meran to S ter zing, by the Passeyr Thai and Pass of the Jaufen* . 218 ROUTE COL. 2i6a Botzen to Sterzing or the Passeyrthal, by the Sarn Thai . , . .222 217 Innsbruck to Verona, by the Brenner Pass, Botzen, and Trent. . 225 218 Eoveredo to Riva and Peschiera, by the Logo di Garda . . . .248 219 Trent to Riva, on the Lago di Garda. . .253 220 Trent to Edolo, by the Valleys of Non and Sole and Pass of Monte Tonale .256 220A Meran or Botzen to Brescia, by Val Ren- dena and the Giudi- caria .265 221 Trent to Cortina d’Am¬ pezzo, by the Fleimser Thai, Val Fassa, the Fedaia Pass, Caprile, and Pass of Gusella . 280 222 Trent to Venice, by ValSugana. . . .294 2 22A Primolano, in Val Su- gana, to Cortina d’Am- Ill TYBOL: INTRODUCTOBY INFORMATION. 112 ROTTTE COL. pezzo, by Primiero, Agordo, and Caprile . 301 223 Brixen to Villach, by the Buster Thai . . .310 223A The Gail Thai, from Sillian, in the Blister Thai, to Villach on the Brave; also Pass of Sta. Croce . . . .320 224 Brunecken, in Pnster- thal, to Heiligenblut, by Antholz, the Valley of Tefereggen, and the kaiser Thai . . .324 224A Windisch Matrei to Brunecken, by Pregra- ten and St. Jacob . .331 224B St. Jacob to Heiligen- geist, by the Ochsen- leute Tauern . . .333 225 Brunecken to Zell, in the Ziller Thai, by Valley of Taufers and the krimler Tauern . 335 2 25A Heiligengeist, in the Ahren Thai, to Wind¬ isch Matrei, in the Isel Thai . . . .341 226 Lienz, in the Puster- thal, to Mittersill, in the Pinzgau, by Wind¬ isch Matrei and the Velber Tauern . . .343 227 Brunecken, through the Gader Thai (Enne- berg), to Cortina d’Ain- EOUTB COL. pezzo; or, by the Gro- den Thai, to Botzen . 346 228 Innsbruck to Venice, by Brunecken and Pass of Ampezzo . . . .357 228a Innichen, in Puster- thal, to Pieve di Ca- dore, by the Sexten Thai , . . . .369 229 Salzburg to Innsbruck . 374 229A (234 in S. Germ. Handbooli) Worgl, in Inn Thai, to Gastein, by Kitzbiihl and Mitter¬ sill .380 230 Innsbruck to Gastein or Salzburg, by the Ziller Thai, the Gerlos Pass, and the Pinzgau . .382 231 Sondrio, in the Valtel- line, to Brescia, by the Passof Aprica, ValCa- monica, and Lago Iseo. 400 23 lA Brescia to Eiva, by Lago d’Idro . . . 404 232 Eoveredo to Vicenza, by the Valle dei Signori and Schio, with Excur¬ sions to the Sette Co¬ muni and Baths of Ee- cOcXio • • • • • 4^^ 23 2A Vicenza to Schio, by the Baths of Recoaro . 414 233 Schio to Belluno, by Bassano and EeZfre • 417 Sketch of Tyhol. I'he general character of the scenery of Tyrol has been indicated in the preliminary sketch of the Eastern Alps: some special points remain to be noticed. The Province is bounded on the N. by Bavaria, the frontier following the chief summits of the range of mountains N. of the Inn, at a distance of from 10 to 20 m. from that river. Switzerland lies along its W. border (if the Vorarl- berg, which is essentially though not technically one with Tyrol, be in¬ cluded), and by the possession of the upper valley of the Inn (the Enga- dine), makes a large cut into its terri¬ tory on that side. The new kingdom of Italy adjoins the Swiss territoiy, TYIWL: INHABITANTS. 114 113 and holding the great valley of the Adda (the Yaltelline) and that of the Oglio (Val Camonica), closes up the western frontier to the lake of Garda, of which it leaves to Tyrol only the northern end, and eastern shore. From that point along the S., Tyrol is bordered by the Ita¬ lian Venetian Provinces, which separate it by a broad belt of hill and plain from the head of the Adriatic. Carinthia and Salzburg bound Tyrol on the E. The great mountain range, which under the name of the Rhcetian and Noric Alps has been already referred to, cuts Tyrol into two unequal portions, the smaller to the N., the larger to the S., while the latter is again divided by the deep valley ot the Adige, running at right angles with the high chain, into 2 separate areas, the larger to the E., the smaller to the W. Thus for the purposes of the tourist we may speak of Tyrol under the designa¬ tions of Northern, South-Eastern, South-Western, and the Central liange. Northern Tyrol consists almost entirely of the valley of the Inn, and its different lateral valleys, all of which on the S. penetrate more or less to the central snowy range. With it, however, may be included for present purposes the Vorarlherg, a small mountain district on the W. extending to the Rhine and Lake of Constance, and in character of sce¬ nery much resembling the Bavarian Highlands, minus their lakes. The mountain of most importance is the Scesa Plana (10,3 70 ft.) on the S.W. border, in the range of the Rhcetikon Alps, which form there the frontier, and present a considerable extent of snow and glacier. The Inhabitants of Northern Tyrol are all German, and of truest Tyrol tyj)e—finely formed, athletic, and of independent carriage; hardy, industrious, moral, and religious; excessively fond of dancing and music, and excellent shots with the rifle, a heavy clumsy and hereditary instrument. Every village has its shooting-shed, whence target firing is heard on the afternoons of Sundays and holidays. Dancing takes place on most evenings in the rustic inns of the remoter valleys, the men waltzing with each other in capital time, uttering occasional cries, and leaping into the air as in the High¬ land fling, the Kellnerin, or waitress, joining in at every spare moment. Of course no marriage or holiday passes off without its ball, carried on in the same homely style, and in some of the villages of Northern Tyrol the peasants compose and act entire plays—the theatre a space fenced round with planks adjoining the inn, the stage a raised platform, all open to the sky. The subjects ai’e generally taken from Scripture, and the actors are sometimes girls, who enact both male and female characters; satirical improvisation is also not uncommon. The labours and incidents of Peasant-life are very similar in all Alpine countries, and the tra¬ veller in Tyrol, especially in this northern portion, will find the same sort of cultivation up to the bases of the rocks, the same resort of tlie cattle to the higher pastures in the summer, and the same features of cheese-making chalet-life, which are familiar to the tourist in Switzer¬ land. There is, however, a greater prevalence of Indian corn and millet in the larger valleys, especially in that of the Inn, while the crops are in many parts done up in sheaves and stuck upon light wooden staves with branching ai’ms to dry, pre¬ senting a most grotesque appearance. 115 TYROL: INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 116 like rows of bears on their liind legs. Throughout all Tyrol a greater ex¬ tent of forest marks the scenery, and gives greater prominence to the ti'ades of the Avoodcutter and the charcoal-burner. There are now few remains of Costume, except among the women, and on fete-days. The conical hat and feather, and embroidered gay- coloured braces, are, however, still in use. Hessian boots are worn in some districts, and, in a few, the short knee-breeches and stockings. The Religion of all Tyrol is Roman Catholic: the inhabitants of some valleys have indeed at different times become Protestant, but the Tyrolese Provincial Government has hitherto always compelled their expatriation. This intolerance is excused by the simple earnest piety of the people, Avhich is very prepossessing. The crowded attendance in the churches, the number of road-side shrines, reli¬ gious pictures, and crucifixes, and more than all the devout service in which the members of every house¬ hold join, on their knees, led by the house-master every evening, testify to the religious feeling of the coun- try; as also do the numerous me¬ mentos of accidental death i^Tod Erinnerungen) in the shape of small pictures by the roadside represent¬ ing the scene and the victim, with a saint or the Virgin in a corner, and a notice beneath, beseeching the traveller’s prayers. History .—The principal events in the general history of Tyrol may here be noted. The Romans con¬ quered the country in the time of Augustus, and held it, under the names of Rhsetia and Noricum, for 400 years. During the decline of the Empire the Barbarian invaders of Italy also overran and held Tyrol ■—the BavariaiAs on the N., the Lom¬ bards on the S. In 788 A.d. the greater part was united under the sceptre of Charlemagne, who was personally concerned in its subjection. On the division of his empire, Tyrol Avas allotted to the German portion of his dominions, to Avhich in 1027 the bishoprics of Trent and Brixen Avere added, the country being chiefly in the hands of the two great feudal lords—the Bavarian Counts of Aia- dechs and the Counts of Gorz. In - 1248 the i\ndechs portion (Valley of the Inn, &c.) fell to Albert Count of the Vintschgau, who, from his castle of Tyi’ol, near Meran, took the title of Count of Tyrol, the first appearance of the name in history. By marriage and purchase the Count of Gorz eventually became possessor of the whole, and the limits of the country assumed their present shape. In 1363 Margaret Maultascli (Mouth-poke), heiress of the Gorz Counts, tAvice a Avidow but child¬ less, bestowed the country, Avith consent of the Estates, on her cousin Rudolf IV., of Hapsburg, Archduke of Austria, Avith Avhose house after A^arious fluctuations it finally re¬ mained. The ReA'olutionary wars of the French brought them and their allies the Bavarians upon Tyrol, the peasantry of Avhich Avon European renown by their determined resist¬ ance. The year 1809, in particular, Avitnessed the strenuous efforts of the French and BaA^arians to reduce them to subjection, and their heroic defence. Five times in that one year they freed their country from the invaders, only however to be overpowered at last, Avhen the peace of Schonbrunn deprived them of all aid. Of their leaders in this struggle the most noted was Andreas Hofer, an inn¬ keeper of the Passeyr Thai, near Meran, who by honesty of chai-acter as Avell as bravery became chief of the insun-ectiou, and during a short 117 TYROL: the CENTRAL RANGE. 118 period Vicegerent of the Emperor at Innsbruck. There is not a road-pass in Tyrol but has witnessed some scene of this desperate conflict, for the french pushed up columns, and sometimes armies, on all sides, and every defile has its romantic incident or stoiy of the unerring ritle. Another source of interest in Tyrol is the abundance of Castle- ruiTis. These crown every feasible crag, while in some places the feudal fortresses are still in tolerable repair, and partially inhabited. The Central Eange, which for our present purpose has been de¬ scribed as dividing Tyrol into N. and S., is formed by three principal groups—that of the Oetz Thai on the W., the Stubay Thai group in the centre, and that of the Ztller Thai on the E., the last joining on to the None Range, of which, though it forms the frontier of Salzburg, the southern valleys only belono- to Tyrol. Of the above-named groups the Oetz Thai is the most important, as it contains the loftiest summits, and especially the largest area of snow and glacier, for which feature it is remarkable. Its principal peaks are the IVms Kiigel (12,280 ft.), the Wild Spitze (12,389 ft.), and the Similaun Spitze (11,823 ft.); and it is approached by 3 valleys from the N.—the Kaunsthal, Ritzthal, and Oetzthal, the latter forming the key to the whole. The Stubay Thai group, closely adjoining the Oetzthal on the E., is a compact but small cluster of snow mountains, named from their principal valley, which penetrates them from the E., opening a little S. of Innsbruck upon the valley of the Sill, and easily approached by the Brenner road. The Zuckerhiiil peak of Wilder Pfaff (11,511 ft.) KxiA.Sonhlar Spitzen (11,410 ft.), on the S., are the 2 loftiest summits: a third, in a detached portion on the N.^, is the Schran-Kogel{ll,ilb ft.). Tile Ziller Thai group is ap¬ proached by the valley of that name from the N., and by numerous lateral ramifications of the same, reaching up to its extensive glaciers. The Hoch Feil (11,621 ft.) and Mosel Spitze (11,430 ft.) are the loftiest points towards the W., and the Lbffel Spitze (11,072 ft.) is the most noted of the central portion. Several snow mountains of fair elevation follow eastward, to the point where the pass of the Krimler Tauern separates the Ziller Thai group from the more important Noric range, but none of them seem to stand out prominently from the rest. The Noric Range, of which only the southern slope belongs to Tyrol, commences at the Krimler Tauern with the Drei Herrn Spitze in close contiguity with the loftier Gross Venediger (12,052 ft.), whence it stretches eastwai’d in masses of snow and glacier to the noble Gross Glockner{i2,^()^ ft.) on the frontier of Carinthia. The chief interest of N. Tyrol undoubtedly belongs to the three groups just described, the best and most varied appi-oaches to which are all from the N. There are only two carriage roads by which N. Tyrol communicates with the S. across the main chain— that of Finstermiinz and the Eeschen Scheideck, which passes to the W. ot the Oetzthal group; and the Brenner road between Innsbruck and Botzen, which crosses between the Stubay and the Ziller Thai groups. Neither of them is comparable to any of the chief Swiss carriage-roads across the Alps, but the first of them is famous for the Finstermiinz gorge, and further S. for the fine distant view it gives of the Orteler Spitze. 119 TYIiOL: INTEODUCTOHY INFOmiATION. 120 There are numerous paths or tracks across the different snowy ranges, but very few of them are frequented mule-tracks, and the Tyrolese are little inclined to taking horses over those which are not in use for this purpose. This, with the absence of the large tourist hotels common in Switzerland, prevents ladies from seeing so much of the ice scenery as they usually do in that country; but the number and variety of the tracks afford excellent opportunities for pedestrianism. South of the great chain lie the two portions of Tyrol separated by the Eisack and the Adige. South-Eastern Tyrol, the larger of the two, may be first briefly described. In looking at this block of country the great valley of the Pusterthal, running E. and W., will at once suggest itself as a dividing line, and it is ti'uly so, as marking off to the S. a very distinct tract of mountain country. That to the N. of this line derives its interest from the proximity of the snowy chain with which almost all its valleys are connected, and which displays, gene¬ rally speaking, finer scenery on the S. than on the N. On this side of it the loftier mountains of the Ziller Thai group come more into view; and the still nobler ones of the ad¬ joining Noric chain—the Venediger and the Gross Glockner—dominate over the scenery. In this tract of country also are several isolated snowy groups, such as those of Antholz, Teffereggen, and Kals, be¬ tween which and the high chain are several fine passes. This portion of Tyrol extends from the Brenner road on the W. to the frontier of Carinthia near Lienz on the E. But we now come to the most peculiar region of Tyrol, that of the Dolomite Mts,, which fill the whole of the remaining area of South- Eastern Tyrol, and render its scenery distinct from that of any other moun¬ tainous country. The name is de¬ rived from that of M. Dolomieu, who first observed a chemical difference in certain specimens of limestone, and first recognised that difference to attach to the strange-looking mountains he had seen near Botzen. The chemical peculiarity, roughly stated, consists in the union of car¬ bonate of lime with carbonate of magnesia, and a structure more or , less crystallized. It is not an infre¬ quent formation. There are even some mountain groups composed of it elsewhere than in Tyrol, but no¬ where else does it cover so large an area, nearly 4000 squai'e miles, and nowhere else does it so strikingly affect the character of the landscape. Dolomite mountains form a striking contrast to all others in their sin¬ gular whiteness, in their barren sterility, in their abrupt contour, in the innumerable vertical cracks and clefts which traverse their gigantic walls, in their sharp peaks and tooth¬ like ridges, rising many thousand feet into the air, and presenting the roost picturesque outline. Some¬ times they take the appearance of towers and obelisks, in others the points are so numerous and slender that they resemble a bundle of bayonets or sword - blades. Alto¬ gether they impart an air of novelty and sublimity to the scene which can only be appreciated by those who have viewed it. The supposed origin of Dolomite is as remarkable as anything else about it. The latest theory upon a subject, still very obscure, represents them as ancient coral reefs, built in some instances upon the ruins of extinct volcanoes, and lifted fi-om the depths of a primeval ocean. The fact that augite porphyry frequently underlies 121 TYROL: DOLOMITE MOUNTAINS. 122 and interpenetrates dolomite sug¬ gested at one time an igneous origin.* The Handbook for S. Germany from the first drew particular atten¬ tion to these mountains, but they attracted little notice, and their remote valleys were scarcely visited by a single tourist till in 1864 Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill pub¬ lished a narrative of their rambles and adventures among the Dolomites, covering the entire district, which, accompanied by numerous illustra¬ tions and a scientific description, immediately opened up this new and charming region to all lovers of scenery. To this work, ‘ The Dolo¬ mite Mountains,’ &c. (Longmans), travellers are referred for the fullest information yet given concerning this portion of the Eastern Alps. Tourists have now begun to pene¬ trate the secluded valleys, and the accommodation is accordingly rapidly improving. Only one carriage - road passes through the dolomite district, that of the Ampezzo, which forms an easy route from Innsbruck to Venice. A few country roads also penetrate it for a short distance, as from Belluno on the S., from Piece di Cadore on the E., from Kollman near Botzen on the W., and from Brunecken on the N. With these exceptions the whole district is traversed only by mule-tracks. Four valleys singulai ly diverging from one common centre (a huge * See Von Richthofen’s ‘Geologische Beschreibung der Umgegend von Pre- dazzo, St. Cassian und der Seisser Alp,’ with Geological Map and Sections, i vol. 4to, Perthes, Jena, i860. His coral-reef theory has been recently discussed by P. Scheerer, in a paper (pp. i-j j) entitled ‘ Beitrage zur Erkliirung der Dolomit- bildung niit besonderer Hinsicht auf die Dolomit Sud-'l’irols. Leonhard und Geinitz neues Jahrbuch fiir Mineralogie,’ r, the lovely round by Bassano and Possagno, 233, to Feltre.] Belluno (Excursion to Agordo, 222 a). Fieve di Cadore, 228 (Excursion to Auronzo, 228 a). Cortina in Ampezzo, 228. Niederndorf, 223 (Excursion to Sexten Thai or to Frags Bad). Brunecken, 223 (Excursion to Taufers). Mittewald, 217, Sterzing, and Brenner Pass to Innsbruck, 212 {^Excursion to Zell, 230). Wbrgl, 229 A, 229, and by Reichenhall and Berchtesgaden to Salzburg, 175. Or, from Wbrgl by Kitzbiilil, 229 A, to Mittersill in Pinzgau {Ex¬ cursion to Kriml, 230), and thence by Saalfelden and Berchtesgaden to Salzburg, 202, ROUTES. Rte. 211. - FEIDKIECH Vo ’’COIBE, by the LUZIENSTEIG. FELDKIRCH to ENG. M. ENG. M. Vaduz ... 9 Coire . . .12 Maienfeld. .10 A post-road, with daily diligence. For quickness travellers take the rly. on opposite ( 1 .) bank of Rhine, driving to Oberreid or Haag Stats. This route affords a pleasant drive through Liechtenstein, the smallest state in Europe (Pop. 5500 ; • annual revenue, 5000?. ; contingent to the German Fede¬ ration, 55 men); and the Pass of Luziensteig is very charming. From Feldkirch the road, after crossing the Ill, passes Frontier of Liechtenstein. The 11 opening of the Swiss Valley of Toggenhurg is seen opposite, across the Rhine. Vaduz {Country Inn), chiel 7 ^ place of the principality, 1800 Inhab. Old Castle of the Prince on a steep above; he resides in Vienna, having large possessions in Austria. Balzers {Inn: Post, comfort-5 able), poor village, Austrian Pass¬ port and Customs Office. [A road turns off to a ferry over the Rhine, leading to Sar- gans, and either Wallenstadt or Bagatz. See Swiss Handbook.^ Frontier of the Orisons is crossed immediately S. of Bal¬ zers ; a stone shows the arms of Liechstenstein on one side, and those of the Orisons on the other. tv|M Bte. 212.~BIIEGENZ to INNSBRUCK, 130 Tlie road now turns away from the liliine, and ascends towards the Oberreid or Haag Stats, (post carriage daily from latter), but no time is saved upon the whole. Pass of Luziensteig {Inn), 2238 ft. above sea, between the Eal/c- mss 1. E., and Fldscherherg rt. W. (The former can be ascended from the N. side; the latter is an easy detour, and each displays a noble Vieiv.) A Swiss Fortress now guards the pass, which in 1799 was defended by the peasants against Massena. Ancient Ch. of St. Lucius. Beautiful descent to An interesting but not the inost striking entrance into Tyrol thiougli the VoTarlhevg, or counti’y m front of the Arlberg (A dler Berg); the latter a low mountain pass forming^ the Tyrol frontier. On me S. it is separated from the Orisons (Switzerland) by the Rhsetikon range of Alps, con¬ taining very fine scenery. The whole is Austrian territory. i|m. Maienfeld {Inn: Alte Post^ Thence by rail or road to . " :2 m. Coire. See Swiss Handbook (Inns: Lukmanier’s, near station, _ good; several others). I t Rte. 212.—BREGENZ, on the LAKE of CONSTANCE, to INNSBRUCK, by the PASS of the ARLBERG. * Bregenz (Lms: Golden Adler (Post), good; Oesterreichischer Hof, near the steamer, good • Schwarzer Adler), chief town of the province. Pop. 2300 ; prettily situated; place of considerable tiaffic; was the Bregantium of Stiabo, and spot where Tiberius and Drusus fought the Vindelici. Fine Views from the Eregenzcr Klause, 5 hour s walk, and from the Gebhardsberg, f hour’s ascent, a most beautiful panorama, a castle of the Counts of Montfort and a ch. on the summit. . Ascent of the Pfdndler, 3264 ft., N.E. of Bregenz, can be made in 22 hours, and well repays the climb. Way difficult to find. Steamboats call at Bregenz daily landing passengers at principal points on shores ot the lake. To Lindau, by road, IS 7 m., crossing the Bavarian frontier half-way. Austrian custom-house. t BREGENZ to i 1 liNG. M. heldkirch . 21^. ! Innsbruck . \ Bludenz. . 14 ( _L_ Landeck . 47^ Eilwagen daily in 25 hrs., communi¬ cating at Landeck with a branch coach to Botzen (Rtes. 211, 217); posting, it is 2 or 2i^ days’ journey to Innsbruck. I rom Feldkirch, by niean3.of Laufzettel it on be done in 12 hrs. There is Bad to Feldkirch, by way of Rorschach and Kp, Tyr. & Alps. The rd,, ou a dead level and among orchards, crosses the Bre- genzer Aehe flowing from the Bregenzer Wald [for interesting route up this valley, and so either to Landeck or into the Valley of the Lech, see Rte. 212 aJ, and then passes through Dornbirn, a large scattered 7i village, 7000 Inhab.: men, carpen- p I m. 131 Rte. ^n.—BREGENZ to INNSBRUCK. 132 G ters; women, muslin embroider¬ ers ; 3 or 4 cotton factories, m. Hohenembs (3I brs’, walk from Bregenz) {Inn: Post, fair), 3000 Inliab. Ch. possesses St. Carlo Borromeo’s cardUial’s bat. Schloss was built 1564. 2 old castles on limestone clitfs, Alt and Neu, Ilohenemhs, whence name of town: a path (leiter) cut in the rode leads to them; fine view from the Alt A 92 families of Jews here, with a school and Eabbi. Near 2 m. Gotzis are ruins of castles of theMontforts, once powerful here. Beyond Altenstadt the hills ap¬ proach nearer the rd., and the sce¬ nery becomes very pictiuesque at 7 Jm. Feldkircb {Inns: Post; Engel Gabriel), 1600 Inhab., active manufacturing place, several mills and factories driven by the III, which here rushes through a cleft in the hills E. to join the Ehine. The Old Castle {Bchatten- burg) of the Montforts occupies a height. In the Gothic Ch., 1478, is an iron pulpit. At the Bridge Massena was repulsed, and the neighbouring pass was twice strongly contested with the French, 1799 and 1800. Fine View from Margarethen Kopf, a hill J hour’s walk W. Daily communication with the trains for Coire or Wallenstadt. The road now turns E. up the Valley of the Ill, here called the Wallgau (the Walsch or foreign district; it was once Komansch). 2 m. A Eoad turns off 1 ., ascends the rt. bank, and leads into the Gross Walserthal {see below). ^ m. Frastens. [Here the Samina- thal S. would lead the pedestriaii pleasantly into Liechtenstein, and on to Mayenfeld.] At Nenzing the Oamperthon- m. tJial opens S. to the Ehmtikon range, an outlier from which, t]ie Fundelhorn, commands the valley on the E. [A path from head of yalley into the Pratigau.] The Gross Walserthal is seen op§n-: ing N.E. Bridge. Eoad crosses to rt. 5 m. ^ bank, and the road to the Gross ^ Walserthal turns otf. [This fine valley, watered by the Lutzbach, offers 2 interesting paths to the Bregenzer Wald, Thuringen is the first village, with a curious old ch., and the ruins of 2 castles near. At St. Gerold, further on, is the parish ch. and convent. At Sonntag, where the valley forks, is the most pictu¬ resque scenery. In 1 . branch are the Baths of Fontanella, and a path over a ridge to Damils, whence ascent of the Mittagsspitze is made; wonderful view. By the rt. branch is a path to Im ; Schrocken in the Bregenzer Wald, Ete. 212 a.] Bludenz {Inns: Post, good 2 m; and moderate ; Schwarzer Adler, j[ good), 2000 Inhab., finely situated at head of the VVallgau, with Castle on hill, whence and from ■ Ch. fine Vieuf^. ■ l^Ascent of the Scesa Plana, or Wetterspitz (10,3 70 ft.), highest of the Eheetikon Alps, is made from the Brandnerthal S.; 3 hours to highest village, then past the Liiner See, strikingly situated, rocks and crevassed glacier near summit. View wonderful. Time, jQ hrs, from Bludenz to summit.] Boad divides at Nunnery ofljni 133 nte. 2\%~BnEGENZ to INNSBRUCK. 134 St. Peter; that to rt. leads through a grand defile to ; [Valleij of Montafun, S.E., very populous, bright in verdure, ' famous for its cherry orchards and tlie production of kirsch- wasser ; road often shut in I by precipices, and scenery gene¬ rally very fine. Inhab. are grpat wanderers. Scliruns, 12 m. i trom Bludenz, chief place (Bins : , Graube; Lowe.)] Beyond this ; the Selvretta glaciers begin to ! be seen at the head of the I valley, of which the last village , js Batteiien. From this there are 2 ivays into the Paznaunthal, by which the pedestrian can regain our^ route near Landeck, and fichieve a very interesting circuit. Oyer the Zeyneser Jock 1 , (5998 ft.) is the direct course to the Paznaunthal. It is however steep, stony, and boggy. The greater interest is by the Fermuntthal, at the head of which is a noble ampfiitheatre of snowy mtns. Crossing the Bielerjoch 1., the traveller descends at Wirl into Paznaunthal, and joins the route from the Zeyneser Joch. The I stream of this valley is the Trisanna; the principal village Jschgl (whence a ehar-road to Landeck). The highest penk of j the district is the Albuinkopf I (10,608 ft,), at head of a lateral I valley S. of Wirl.] ; Our Q-oad 1 . leaves the Ill to ascend' the narrow valley of I Alfenz, or the Kloster Thai ;8m. Dalaas (Inn: Post, good country sort). The Arlberg pomes into view; continual ascent through picturesque scenery, and yill. of Klosterle (which narqes ‘ the valley), once g hospice, to Stuben, poor vill. of low inns 91 m. for waggoners. Massiye masonry protects from avalanches, and zigzags of the ascent commence. Additional post-horses required, hr, to the summit. Road dating from 1787, im23roved since 1835, hut dangerous after heavy rains; rd. rises through a broad hollow to the Summit, 5902 ft. (according to another authority 6429 ft.); snow, 20 ft. deep in winter, often lies from Sept, to July. View fine; Scesa]3lana (here called Wetter- spitz) visible W. by S. [For path N. into the Lech Thai, see Rte. 212 A.] Boundary post of Tyrol is passed, and a short descent brings to Hospice of St. Christopher, 5 m. founded by Heinrich Findelkind, once a poor serving lad, who, afiected by the many deaths upon the pass, dedicated his savings, and begged through Europe for the pm-pose. Descent is through the Stanzer- that by stream of the Rosanna; steeper than ascent, and dark pine forests indicate a charac¬ teristic feature of Tyrol. St. Anton (Inn: Post, j^oor,but 4 J m. well-intentioned), smaU village, . Petnen, mostly log-houses* Plirsch (Inn : Post, clean, 9 | m. people civil), scenery becomes highly romantic. Cheap violins manufactured in the cottages. Castle of Wiesherg is sepn acrqss river at opening of the Paznaunthal (see above), where the Trisanna joins the Rosanna. Charming view F 2 135 nte. 212.—BREGENZ to INNSBRUCK. 13G Koon opens over the Ober Inu- thal, into which rd. descends at in. Landeck (Inns : Schwarzer Adler, good, hut dear; Goldner Adler, fair), looo Inhah., beauti¬ fully situated on rt. bank of Inn. Castles of Landech and Schro- fenstein E. and N. [Road S. by pass of Finstermunz, Rte. 213, to Italian Tyrol — either to the Stelvio, Rte. 214, or to Meran and Botzen.] Eihvagen daily to Innsbruck, and 4 times a week to Botzen. Stellwageii to Innsbruck, 2 fi.j l^m. Bridge over the Inn close to Nunnery of Zams. [Path W. over Zainser Joch into the Lechthal, Rte. 212 A.] Lower down, on same side as the convent, is Castle of Kroiiberg on top of a conical rock. Road ascends a steep face of precipice near 7 m. Mils. This was the scene of a Tyrolese ambuscade in the French war. Tlie road leaves the Inn and enters the Gurgl- thal for a short distance to reach 5|m. Imst {Inn: Post, good), 3000 Inhab., destroyed by fire in 1822, formerly a great breeding-place for canary birds. Ascending the Clavarienberg are charming views. The Tsclvurgant (7544 ft.) rises E. of the town ; it can be ascended in 3 hours from Tarrenz (ij hr. . above Imst), and displays a noble prospect. [The Bitz Thai opens S. nearly opposite to Imst, leading to the great snowy Oetzthal group, but the finest Excursion is up the noble Oetzthal, opening lower down. (The pedestrian from Landeck can avoid Imst by a path at Karren.) See Rte. 215.] [From Imst there is an upper hiUy road to Innshruch, with fine views. It ascends tlic Gurgl- thal to Nassereit 9 m. {Inn, Post), (here an interesting road goes N. into Bavaria, see Rte. 177.) Then turning E. it makes a steep ascent (extra posthorse) by a wooded pass to an extensive ‘ undulating plateau, whence the Oetzthal glaciers are finely seen. ^ Ober Miemingen, 9I m. {Inn: i (Post), is under the lofty Mie- t minger Berg N. Descent con- ) tinues to Telfs 7 m. in valley of the Inn, whence Innsbruck as below.] The lower road from Imst is that of the Eilwagen, It erosses the Pigerbach, leaves to rt. the road which leads into the Pitz- thal, Rte. 215, keeps the 1 . bank of river, rounding the base of the Tscliurgant 1 ., and passing opening of Oetzthal opposite to Mayerbach, whence it crosses the river to Haimingen [char-road to the 10 m. Oetzthal, Rte. 215.] Castle of Petersberg, on wooded 1 m. rock, rt., birthplace of Margaret Maultasch, who gave Tyrol to Austria; curious old fortress, uiicared for. Chapel is passed where late King of Saxony was killed by an overturn. Silz {Inn : Post, good), a large 1 m. village with a handsome new church. Stams: on the rt. is the 3 m. Cistercian Convent, founded 1271 by the mother of Conradin, the last of the Hohenstaufens. It is 137 Rte. 2V1.—BREGENZ io INNSBRUCK. 138 said his body, obtained from Naples, is buried here. Church rebuilt in 1615, contains a curious altar, and m the subterranean ciiapel are 12 tombs of Counts of Giirz and Tyrol. A fine bas- relief by Colin. The rd. crosses the Inn to m. Telfs (Inn: Post). Frescoes in the cb. Obs. stacks of wood by river-side for Hall salt-Avorks. [The upper rd., which tliat from Bavaria has joined at Nassereit, here falls inj 9 ^ Zirl (^Inns: Post, Lowe), very picturesque; ruins of Scbloss Fragenstein above. [Post-road from Munich by Partenkirclien, Pte. 186, and that by the AValchen See, Pte. 187, enter liere.]| [^Ascento^ the (965 2 ft.), the highest summit in the neigh¬ bourhood of Innsbruck, is best made from here. View extends far into Bavaria.] Passing Zirl, the traveller soon finds himself under a gigantic precipice 1., a buttress of the Sollstein, which projects into the valley of tlie Inn, and is conspicuous for miles: this is the i m. Martinswand, famous as a mili- tary position in the old wars, but especially for the adventure of the ^ Emp. Maximilian, who, huntmg chamois, fell, and hung suspended, head downwards, near the summit. Though seen from below, no aid could be rendered till he was accidentally discovered by an outlawed poacher belonging to Zirl, who with great difficulty efiected his rescue. An artificial cave with crucifix 20 ft. high marks the spot, 707 ft. above, and just visible from, the road. Innsbruck (Inns: Oesterrei- 8 chischer Hof, excellent; Goldene Sonne, comfortable—room, i fl. ; dinner, i fl. 36 kr.; breakfast, 36 kr.—opposite each other in the Neustadt; Goldener Adler. 2nd class, on 1. bank of Inn, Stern, good and reasonable), capi¬ tal of Tyrol, Pop. 14,000 (1884 ft. above sea), in midst of noble valley scenery. N. is an abrupt and lofty range of mountains; S. are lower wooded ranges, backed by the snowy Alj)s of the Brenner and the Stubay, seen at intervals. The river flows with extreme swiftness under the Old Bridge, giving name to the town. It is of wood, was the scene of a turious action in 1809, and oft’ers a beautiful-r/etc. A modern chain- hridge GX0Q8e& below the town, and there is a ferry in the interval. The Franciscan or Court Ch. (Hof Kirche), date 1553-63, con¬ tains the famous torn!) of Maxi¬ milian, surrounded by 28 co¬ lossal bronze figures of historical personages in their armour as they lived. The tomb itself, which after all does not contain the body, is an exquisite work of art, being surrounded by 24 pictures in relief worked in Car¬ rara marble with the delicacy of cameos. The first 4 are by the brothers Abel of Cologne; the others by Colin of Mechlin, and represent the principal events in life of Maximilian. From their faithfulness, both in portraiture and costume, they are of high historical value as well as unique in art. In No. 20 Henry VIII. of England is introduced. For a fee of 35 kr. the coverings pro¬ tecting them are removed by the Sacristan. The Silver Chapel, rt. on entering the ch., so named from a Madonna of solid silver, was 141 Rte. 2.12.—INNSBBUGKi 142 built by the Archduke Ferdinand II. as a mausoleum for himself and the beantifnl Philippina Welser, his wife. The two altar- tombs, with statues, life-size, of the Archduke and his wife, are , decorated, like that of Maxi- miliaUj with relievos by Colin. There are also 23 small statues in bronze of mediseval saints by Ham and Elias Loffler. The grave of Hofer is on 1. hand of ch. 'on entering ; his body was , removed here from Mantua, where he was shot; a statue rej)resent- i ing him in his native costume I marks the spot (see for this ch. Handhooh for S. Germany). The Palace (Burg or Neuer Hof), close to ch., was built by I Maria Theresa on site of the older edifice, where Charles V. was re- ; siding when nearly surprised by Prince Blamicc; , The Golden Hoof (das Goldene , Dachl), in one of the streets is a ; sort of oriel window roofed with ! gilt copper, built at a cost of I 30,000 ducats by the so-called \ Count of the Empty Pocketj to show his resources. The University was founded by Emp. Ferdinand I. 1 The Museum (Ferdinandeum), ; founded 1845, is devoted to the productions of Tyrol: it is rich in minerals, fossils, and dried plants, and contains a few good pictures. There are also some relics of Hofer and his comrade Spechbacher. Open daily, except on Sundays and feast-days. I In the Pfarrhirclie is a small jiicture of Madorma and Child, by [ Cranach, presented by the Elector [ of Saxony to a Duke of Tyrol. I In the Neustadt are the Post [ Ojjice, Landhaus, or Parliament ( House, and a triumphal arch f built by Maria Theresa, In the Public Cemetery are graves of Colin the sculptor, and I 3 aron Hormayr. _ The Gardens of the palace, by side of the river, are a j^leasant promenade. The hills on the 1 . bank afford many charming views; but the Berg Isel, ^ m. S., a low wooded hill just beyond suburb and large convent of Wilten, is the most agreeable resort within a short distance. On the summit is a garden in which the Tyrolese Jagers have their shooting ranges, and house of refreshment. Two of the actions between Hofer and the French were fought here. Physician, Dr. Berreiter, who speaks English. English Service on Sunday at the Oesterreichischer Hof, Trains twice a day to Munich and Salzburg. Eilicagen twice a day over Brenner S. to Botzen, and daily to Landeck, Bregenz, Fiissen, Mittenwald, and Kreiith Baths. Stellwagen also daily, at cheaper fare^ to Landeck, Meran, and Botzen. Excursions are numerous. On rt. bank of Inn are— (a) Schonberg, near the first post station on the Brenner road, which has a vieio scarcely to be surpassed. Beturn by Putsch on rt. side of Sill. Carriage there and back, 5 fl. (b) Schloss Ambras, i hr’s. walk below Innsbruck: take rd. by the fall of the Sill in going, and by that nearer the river Inn in returnmg. Before reaching Castle on rt. is the Pummel Platz, the ancient tilt-yard, afterwards a military buiying-ground; 8000 who pe¬ rished by pestilence in one year lie there. Castle (of Koman ori¬ gin) is noted in the old chro¬ nicles ; the present building was Philippina Welser’s favourite resi¬ dence, a gift from her husband 143 Bte. 212 A.—The BREGENZEIi WALD. 144 the Archduke, 1564. The won¬ derful collection of armour now at Vienna in the Ambras Gallery of the Lower Belvedere was formed by him here. Several in¬ teresting objects remain. It was successively a military hospital and barrack, but in 1842 the troops were removed. The pile is extensive, but not picturesque ; the view from the battlements, hoAvever, is superb. (c) The Patscher Kofel (7350 ft.) offers the finest excursion in the whole neighbourhood. 12 m. carriage-rd. to Heiligenwasser, 2 thirds of distance, where is a Pilgrimage Ch. and Inn (3 hrs’. walk). Vieio hence very fine, and to be selected by those Avhose time is limited. 3 hrs’. more walking brings to summit, with a glorious 'panorama, including the great glaciers of Oetz and Stubay. {d) The Lanzer Kopji (3030 ft.), above Schloss Ambras and vill. of Lans, is ascended in less time, 2 hrs., and gives almost as fine a view. (e) On 1 . side of the valley may be visited the Martinsicand, 7 m., see Kte. 212, and Schloss Weiherhurg, 5 hr’s. walk from Innsbruck, hunting-seat of Emp. Maximilian. Hangerhurg, a cafe above the Schloss, deserves a visit for the view. Peasants’ Comedies :—theatrical representations of sacred subjects are occasionally to be witnessed; the best are at villages of Pradl and Buchsenhausen. Rte. 212 A.— BREGENZ to REUTTE by the BREGENZER WALD and LECH THAI. BREGENZ to ENG. ir. Mellau . . 25i- Im Schreckeu i6i Stog . Reutte'. ENG M, . 12 . 33 A country road through the Bregenzer Wald and again from Stdg in the Lech Thai; paths over low passes otherwise. A stellwagen 4 times a week in the Bre¬ genzer Wald, as far as Bezau; also between Stdg and Reutte. This supplies a charming short cut for pedestrians bound for Tyrol, avoiding the high road of the Vorarlberg, which may be reached again either at Stuben or near Lancleck. It offers also an agreeable access to that part of the Bavarian Highlands called the Algau Alps. The scenery is sequestered and picturesque, the people unsophisticated. Bregenz. Rte. 212. Follow the Feldkirch road, and cross the Bridge over the Ache. Then 2 m. turn up lane to 1., which does not ascend by the stream, but keeps S. along the border of the plain to Schwarzach, where it takes to 3 m. the hills, reaching Alberschwende, 3 hrs. (Jjm; 4 m. Taube, decent), a small village near the summit of the low jjass, the descent from which brings the traveller down to the river Ache again; the road keeps on the 1. bank, passing 145 146 1116.2.12 A—The BREGENZER WALD. ^ m. Miselbach, and presently Egg, on the opposite bank [by which a rd. leads N., in 6 hrs., to Stau- fen, on the rly. between Lindau and Immenstadt.] Turning now again away from the stream, the road makes for 4 m. Sehwarzenberg {Inn: Hirsch, very comfortable). Angelica Kaufmann came from this village. The altarpiece in the ch. was painted by her in 1802 , and a tablet records her benefactions. Her portrait, by herself, is in the Lam me Inn. [From Alberschioende a short path over the hill leads direct to Schioarzenherg; it ascends by 23astures on one side, descends through woods on the other, and offers a lovely vieio from the summit. This way it is only an easy afternoon’s walk from Bre- genz.] The road, now rejoining the stream, winds through a narrow gorge, and crosses the river to 5 im. Bezau, looo Inhab., chief place of the Bregenzer Wald, or Valley of the Aciie, a quaint old-world district, with remains of many singular customs, peculiar also in dialect and costume. The prin- cijral industries are the manufac- tui-e of cheese, cultivation of flax, and carving in wood. They ex¬ port also vast quantities of stakes for vineyards. On the hill called Bezeck, above Bezau, the popular assemblies used to be held, and all causes were there decided by a sort of jury. Certain old trees are held in great veneration, and the evening prayers of a family are often performed near them. Three old trees in the neighbour¬ hood of Bezau take a singular part in the election of Landam- man. Every communicant in the valley is an elector; on the day appointed they meet the Austrian official, join in prayer, and then run to the three trees, each of which represents a pre¬ viously-selected candidate. The successful one is he round whose tree is the largest cluster of voters. (i hr. from Bezau, on same bank of river, S., is Beute, a frequented bath-house.) The road up the valley does not pass through Bezau, but con¬ tinues, on the 1. or western bank of the river, to Mellau {Inn), a good centres m. for excursions. [The Mittagspitze (6657 ft.) can be ascended from here, but in shorter time from the S. side. Rte. 212.] There are also 2 loaterfalls, the Mellauer fall and the Fluhbach, to be seen. At Mellau the rd. crosses the river, and, after joassing Schnepfau, enters a defile, the 4 m. western side of which is formed by the Canisflith (6696 ft.), whose enormous walls of rock are of much geological interest, and reaches An {Inn: Eossle, celebrated 3 in. for its excellence). The word au signifies a meadow by a stream ; the valley consists of a succession of these, separated by narrow gorges. [A valley here breaks away S,, in which is Damils, best point from which to ascend the Mittag¬ spitze, and whence also is a way into the Gross Walsertlial, opening near Bludenz. Ete. 212.] Schopernau’ is the next vill. 2 |m. {Inn: Krone), and where the carriage-road ceases. 147 Ete. 212 A.— T/ie BEEGENZEB WALD. 148 [Here a country-track leads N,E. into the Mittelbergertlial, called also Klein Walserthal, and becoming in Bavaria the valley of the Iller, where is Oherstdorf, a frequented summer 1-esort; and further down, Sonthofen and Im- menstadt. Ete. i76Ai] Continuing along the Bregenzer Valley by a horse-track up a steep ascent, 4 m. Hopferehen is reached, a small Bath or Spa, and then, by a still sharper pull through forest— 3 m. im Schrecken (^Inn recently rebuilt), 3736 ft., the highest vil¬ lage on the Ache, which rises from a small lake near. It is perched on a hill of debris, in midst of a vast funnel, the sides of which are formed by noble mountains. The Widderstein (8165 ft.), on the N., is one of the most lofty. It belongs to a group stretching eastward, which feeds the head-waters of the Iller in Ba¬ varia. The other most noticeable summits are the Gaisberg, the Biberkopf (8548 ft.), and the Ma¬ dder Gabel. The two last are dolomite, and the Biherlcopf is reputed the highest mountain in Western Bavaria — a district known as the Algau Alps. [The Gross Walser Thai is en¬ tered over a low pass, W., before reaching Schrecken.J A stiff climb through pine forest, and leaving the small lake Kalbele or Korher See to rt., brings to 2 ^ m. Krumbach, situated at a greater altitude than any other vill. in the Yorarlberg. The ch. is upon an eminence at the foot of the Wid¬ derstein, and the scenery is all rock and bare pasture. [A path hence climbs the' Col between the Widderstein and the Gaisberg on the E., and descends into the Mittelberger Thai, so communicating with Bavaria; but the finest route is by the Schrofen Pass, which lies E. from the last, and between the Gaisberg and the Biberkopf. The descent is into the Eappenalpenthal.]] After crossing the low Col the descent is rapid to Warth (tolel-able inn)j where 2^ the traveller is close upon the upper valley of the Lech, here called Tamihergthal. [Ascending the Tannbergthal, after passing through Biirsteg, is the vill. of Am Lech (Inn: Krone, good) (which can be reached direct over a low pass from Schrecken). There leaving the valley, and bearing S.E., another low pass may be crossed leading to Stiihen, on the Yorarlberg post¬ road. If bound for Landeck, in¬ stead of descending to Stuben, strike to 1 ., across l3ushy slopes, making for the summit of the Arlberg pass, above the zigzags. Near the head of the Tannberg¬ thal stands the Schafberg (8773 ft.), Avith a glacier, easy ascent and noble vieio. Opposite the Schaf¬ berg, on the N., is the Kothe Wand, also Avith a glacier, and between the two rises the Lech, flowing through a small lake.] Lechleiten is the first vill. in Tyrol. The path descending by the Lech, on the N. side (difihcult after Warth, but picturesque), crosses the stream to Ellbogen, where a rd, begins leading to tvjH 149 Bte. 2Vi A,~-The BREGENZEB WALD. 150 7ni, Stogc (2 In 7 is, good), Stell- wagen to Keutte 3 times a Week. [By the valley opening S. is another route to Landeck. i In*. 15 min. to Kaisers, and tlien over the Kaiserjoch in 4hrs. to Petnen, on the Aiibeig roach] Crossing the Lech, and de- fecending the valley, Hdgerdu is passed before reaching 3 m. Holzgau {Imi, good), rather a wealthy vill. Pictures in the ch., and damaged but curious frescoes of the 14th cent, in the chapel St. Sebastian. [A path leads N., over the Madelerjoch, the frontier of Tyrol and Bavaria, into the Eappen- alpenthal, and so in about 6 hrs. to Oberstdorf.] Rd. crosses the river again to 2 m. Stokach. The valley now be¬ comes cheerful and po^julous. [By the Lendhaclitlial E. is a path leading over the mts. at its liead, to Zanis, a village just below Landeck.] 1 ^ m. Lend is on the 1 . bank of the Lech, down which rd. keeps to m. Elbigenalp, 700 Inhab., the most ancient parish of the valley. The cemetery chapel was the old parish ch.; beautiful view from the pilgi'image ch. on the Oeld- herg. The people are many of them rich, and, despite simj)le manners and costume, have often been great travellers, trading both in London and New York. Over the vill., on the N., is the Falle- bach glacier of the Wetterspitz, also an aperture in the rock above it called the Fallebach Window. Passing Griesau on the oppo¬ site side of the river, and at the entrance of a small valleyi we reach Unterhofen {Lin: a noted 4 m. brewhouse). The valley of Gi'a- mais opens on the E. [Up this valley, _ arid passing the vill. of Gramais, is a track leading over the Zamserjoch to Starkenbach, a little below Landeck.] The road here crosses the Lech, and presently passes the entrance of the Pfafflerihal. [Bschlaps and Boden are the principal villages of this valley ; directly N. of them is the Wetter- spitze, ascent rather difficult; pa¬ norama magnificent ; guides sup¬ plied at Elbigenalp. Interesting paths^ over the Platein and the Steinjoch to Imst and Tarenz;] After passing through Elmeit, the vill. of Mordenau (field of death) is seen on 1 . bank. It is said the women of the valley there repulsed with slaughter a band of invaders during the Smal- kaldic war. A little fiulher the Ilorntlial opens W. [The Uornthal (much recom¬ mended by Scliaubach) descends on the S. side of the Hoch Vogel (8500 ft.), a dolomite peak, one of the finest of the Algauer Alps. The footpath keeps on the N. bank of the stream, and crosses a very striking foot-bridge over a torrent from the Hoch Vogel. There is a difficult path beyond, over a col, into the Oytlial, in which are some fine cascades. A path to Oberstdorf.] Stanzach, at entrance of the 7 m. Stanzach Thai, E. [The Stanzach Thai offers gloomy but grand scenery, and a fine pedestrian detour may here be made, crossing from its he^d 151 Bte. 2.\Z.—INNSBRVCK to BOTZEN, 152 by Namles and Kelmon into the Roththal which issues at Weissen¬ bach on our road.] Road again crosses the Lech, passes the entrance of the Schwarzwasserthal, W., and ar¬ rives at 8 m. Weissenbach, at the entrance of the very striking Pass Gacht. fTlie road up this pass leading to Immenstadt should be explored for at least a mile or two. See Rte. 176a.] [The Both Thai opening E. encloses a very wild bit of scenery, and offers a path to Imst, or a route into the Stanzaclithal. See above,] Road keeps on 1 . bank of Lech, here a wasteful stream, passes the imposing castle of Ehrenberg on a rock opposite, and crosses through pleasant meadows, and over the Lech, to 5 m. Reutte {Inn: Post, good). See Rtes, 176A and 177 for rd. by Lermoos and Nassereit to 5 Gm. Innsbruck. Rte. 212. Rte. 213 . — INNSBRUCK to LANDECK, MERAN, and BOT- ZEN, by the FINSTERMUNZ PASS. INNSBRUCK to EKG. M. EXG, JI, Landeck . 53 Botzen . . 17^ Finstermiinz 24I Mals. , . zoi- Meran . . 38 Excellent post-road. Eilwagen or Stell- wagen daily. Inns: several are inferior, but improving. The scenery of this route is splendid. FinstermUnz is one of the grandest defiles in Tyrol; the Orteler Spitze, the loftiest snow peak of the country, is excel¬ lently seen after crossing the Reschen Scheideck pass; and the wonderful road of the Stelvio (well worth an excursion) di¬ verges further on. Meran is rich and charming, the approach to Botzen superb. From Innsbruck to Landeck see Rte.'2i2. Here 53 m. the valley contracts, and yields room for scarcely more than river and road, which crosses to 1. bank by the Pontlatzer Briicke. In this 5 gorge, now commanded by a fort, a great exploit of the year 1809 took place. A French and Ba¬ varian division, 1400 strong, were advancing cautiously, had crossed the first bridge, were near the second, when a destructive fire was opened from the rocks above, and women hurled down stones; as night came on, the bridge behind was seized, and finally the pea¬ sants, rushing from their hiding- places, assailed the column with axes, scythes, clubs, &c,, and destroyed, or forced to surrender, 1200 men, with 25 officers. [Oil the heights, rt., are the mined castle of Landeck, and medicinal baths of Ladis, i hr. from Prutz ; and | hr. further, at Oh. Ladis, is a large bath estab¬ lishment, well managed, amidst woody scenery, and with fine views, but reached only by a bridle-track.] JyJi Hn 153 Pde. 213 .—the FINSTEBMtiNZ PASS. 154 The road recrosses the river to 2 111. Prutz, where the valley widens into a marshy plain, at entrance of Kaunser Thai. [Tliis valley terminates 20 m. from its mouth, among the Oetz- thal Hints., and in the vast glacier of Gebatsch : Ete. 215.] At a sharp turn of the river, marked by a statue of St. John Nepomuk, is a good Vieic. 2 m. Hied (Inn, poor^, a small town. A little beyond Tosens there is another 3 J m. Bridge across the Inn, and the “ road pursues the 1. bank to Gm, Stuben (Inn, Neger). Ch. with stone groined roof. Across river is Pfunds (Inn, Traube), of which Stuben is a suburb. The summits of the snowy Oetzthal nits, are seen in the distance E. A short distance further A fine wooden Bridge returns the road again to rt. bank, and the magnificent new rd. of the Finstermiinz Pass begins to as¬ cend the clitfs. [The old road, continuing on the 1. bank, affords the pedestiian a more impressive view of the depth and grandeur of the gorge which follows, and which is only excelled by the Via Mala. The most stiiking point is where at a tower and gateway (and poor hosteliy) the road crosses the Inn by a naiTow bridge.] difficult footway leads from this bridge to Schleins, in the Engadine. Vehicles must go round by new road and Nauders. See Swiss Handbook.'} The mountains close, forming a grand defile; road is carried on a terrace, and through 3 or 4 galleries, and about half way up the ascent, 6co ft. above the river, is a small jilatform holding a picturesque Inn (Zum HochS^ m. Finstermiiiiz ; fair, but dear. Can bait or sleep here instead of at Stuben or Nauders). Vieio sjilendid. The river forces its way through a cleft from the Engadine, the famous Pass of Finstermunz, but the road, still carried on the face of the rock, turns about i m. from the hotel away from the river into the jaws of a rocky pass, occupied by a fort partly excavated in the rock. (No sketching allowed any where in the pass.) Zigzags, which the pedestrian may cut across, lead to Nauders. (Inns: Post, clean;4m. Mondschein, old-fashioned; both cheap) : small village. [3 m. W. is Swiss frontier; douane is at Martinsbruck, i, on the river; and ^ hr. walk towards it is a beautiful Vieio of the Engadine from the summit of the ridge.] The road, passing Castle of Naudersberg, now ascends the Reschenscheideck Pass, the lowest, except the Brenner, over the main chain of Aljos. Summit is 4595 ft. above sea.4| m. Near Keschen, 1., the Etsch, or Adige, rises, flowing into the Reschen See. Et. is the Spitz- latberg or Piz Latz (9187 ft.). Eoad, keeping the E. side, passes through 155 Bte. 2m—INNSBRUCK to BOTZEN, t 156 2 m, Graun, at tlie entrance of the l^Langtauferer Thai, which, watered hy the Karlinbach, de¬ scends from the W. end of the great snowy group of the Oetzthal. At Hinterhirch, the liighest. vilh, 3 hrs., the Malag- thal enters from the N., from which valley there is a choice of two paths, with grand glacier views, into the Kaunscr Thai, lite. 215.] Eoad then skirts another lake, the Muter See, or Graun See, and reaches 3 m. St. Valentin auf der Heide, near a 3rd lake, the Heider See. {Inn: Post, decent.) Fine View of the Orteler Spitze, which con¬ tinues to gaip in grandeur for the next feAV miles. The descent is over a hare sloping plain. In June, 1855 , floods, breaking through the Heider See, swept away the old road, and destroyed great part of Burgeis, a village, now off the road to rt., marked by a tall, slender red spue, the Benedictine IMonasteiy, and Castle of Fiirsten- berg. Hence is a quick descent to teresting scenery on either side. Frontier at Taufers, 6 m. Inn at Sta. Maria, in Munsterthal, and another at Ofen, W. of the l^ass.] [A very fine excursion for a pedestrian is up the Muuster- thal, as far as Sta. Maria, 3 J hrs. (A short cut by Laatsch avoids Glurns, and saves i m.) Thence, turning 1 . up Val Muranza to the Wormser Joch, by an ancient mule-track, and descending to Sta, Maria, on the Stelvio road : sleeping there, the 2nd day will bring the traveller over the Stelvio Bass back into Tyrol and the Etsch Valley, about 7 m. below Mals.] Noble view over the valley on leaving Mals. The ruined castle of Lichtenberg, with others, seen below, across the Adige, and the snowy Orteler Spitze grandly above. Tyrolese defeated by the Swiss of the Engadine between Mals and Glurns, 1499. {N foot¬ path by Glurns, Lichtenberg, and Agums, to Brad, on the Stelvio road.) Schludems. A little further 1.3 in. rises the handsome inhabited castle of Churhurg. 7m. Mals, 3263 ft. (Inns: Post, comfortable; Hirsch), a Roman station. Ohs. round Roman tower; also a curious campanile. See slietch of Orteler from above Mals. [A little beyond tliis a road strikes off across the valley W. to Glurns, m. {In 7 i: Sonne), a curious old walled town. Thence a rough char-road leads by the Mimsterthal over the Ofen Bass to Zernetz, in the Upper Engadine, about 30 m, The pass itself dreary, but in- Spondinig {Inn: Zum Hirsch- 4 m. en, decent, an Einspanner kept). [The road to the Stelvio here turns off rt., crossing the Adige by a long and narrow bridge to Prad. For this exti-aordinary pass, see Rte. 214. An excursion to Sum¬ mit and bgck is w^H woi’th while.] Eyers {Inn ; Rost). 21 m. From hence to Meran the valley goes by the name of the Vintschgau (after the ancient THE ORTELEK SPITZE FROM THE VIN’TSCHGAU, 159 me. 21 S.—INNSBRUCK to BOTZUN, IGO Venonetes), and is somewhat im- h interesting. Li 7 m. Schlanders. {Inn : Post, veiy ti good ; best between Finstermunz h andMeran). Vines appear. Across p the river are quarries of marble, ti used by the sculptors of Munich, o The picturesque opening of t the Martellthal is seen rt. 2 m. Bridge across the Adige before 1 reaching village of ^ 2 m. Latsoh {Inns: Post, Weisses Boss; Hirsch; both tolerable). ^ In the Spitalkirclie are old fres- '' coes (retouched). Peasants here ( compose and act dramatic pieces, \ (Bauern Komodien). [The Martell Thai offers a fine » opportunity for exploring the scenery of the Orteler group on this side, ij hr. from Latsch is : Sals, a small bathing-place, clean but rough quarters; the valley populous and picturesque. 11 hr. further is Goncl, highest hamlet of the valley, with a small Inn. 3 hrs. hence is Kaserhoden, an Alpine pasture at the head of the valley, frequented by herdsmen , in summer. The scenery here, including several glaciers and snowy peaks, is very fine. A path beyond this leads in 7 hrs. over the Zufall glacier to a pass on N. side of Mte. Cevedale (or Zu¬ fall Spitze), and descends Val Porno to the Baths of Sta. Cata¬ rina, 3 hrs. from Bormio, in midst of magnificent scenery. See Rte. 214 A. The grandest view, how¬ ever, is obtained by taking the pass into the Sulden Thai, which ascends W.N.W. from Kaser- boden, by the bank of a torrent, to the Sulden Glacier and summit of the pass, whence is a superb Vieio of the Orteler Spitze. The head of the Suldenthal, encircled by glaciers, is termed the End of the World. At Sulden (St. Ger¬ trud), 3 hrs. below, the Cures house will supply a bed and sup¬ per. The whole valley is ex¬ tremely striking. 2 hrs. lower it opens upon the Stelvio road, be¬ tween Brad and Trafoi.] Below Latsch the mountains on 1 . are barren and desolate. Near Staaben is the entrance to the Schnalser Thai, by a grand and? m gloomy gorge, which it is worth while to penetrate for a short distance on foot. [From head of this valley are paths over the Hochjoch and Niederjoch into the Oetzthal, Rte. 215.] Naturns {Inn, Post). A few miles further a ridge or barrier called die Toll, stretching across the valley, is surmounted; here the Yintschgau ceases, and an exquisite Vieio opens over the valley of Meran. [f hr. 1. off the road, near Partschins, is a very fine water¬ fall, visible from a distance.] A Bridge carries the road tob : the rt. bank of the Etsch. It then descends rapidly to the valley, which, luxuriant as a garden, is enlivened by numerous . villages, churches, and feudal • castles, among which, N., is the ; celebrated Schloss Tirol. At village . of Forst ; a ^nd Bridge returns the road I2 i to the 1. bank. (2 hrs. will enable - the pedestrian to visit Schloss , Tirol: see below.) t b Meran {Inns: Post (Erzher-2 0 zog Johann); Graf Yon Meran, IGl llte. 2Vd.~hy the FINSTEItMUNZ PASS. 162 both good; Golduer Adler; Weisses Kreutz). Besides the Inns there are several boarding and lodging houses, the place being very full in Sept, of visitors for the Grape cure. This ancient town, 2800 Inhab., stands at the junction of the Pas- with tlie valley of the Adige, a charming situation, -there are two principal streets, the longest lined with Arcades. Violent irruptions of the Passeyr- bach liave 7 times nearly destroyed the place, which is now protected by a massive dyke {Bie Wasser Mcuier), planted with poplars, and a favourite 'promenade. 4 quaint postern gates. Parish Church, 1335 i curious monuments outside, very good windows of old stained glass. I Highest tower in Tyrol. Kelleramt, an ancient edifice, srnall and homely, but formerly inhabited by the Counts of Tyrol. Maigaret Maultasch was married m the Old Chapel behind. History.—Maja (a name pre- ^rved in Ober Mais) was a Poman station, destroyed a d 800 by the fall of tlie Naifer- berg It occiqned nearly tlie site I ot the present town. Roman ; relics constantly turned up in the . fields and vineyards attest the t tact. It was afterwards the capital 1 of the Counts of Tyrol, when, 1 however, they possessed little I more than the country from Bot- i zen to the Inn. Margaret Maul¬ tasch (pocket-mouth), the last f heiress, bestowed it upon Rudolf I of Hapsburg. Numerous feudal castles in the : neighbourhood of Meran are within easy walking distance. Lehenherg, ij hr. walk S. on rt. bank of Adige, contains 60 chambers, and is surrounded bv Kp. Tyr. & Alps, terraces and vineyards. Further down on the heights, rt. bank of Adige, is Brandeis, belonging to a former Governor of Tyrol, a delightful 3 firs, walk from Meran. Scliona, belonging to the Count of Meran, at entrance of Passeyr- tlial, retains gates, drawbrido-e armoury, and dungeons. ’ Fragshurg, loftily perched above the valley, on 1. bank of Adio-e IS inhabited, but perfectly retains its middle-ago character. The approach is long and steep, it looks down upon 2 other castles, Hatzenstein and Neuherg. The most interesting of all is Schloss Tirol, about 4 m., or I hi. tralk, N. of Meran. It gave its name (TermZis) to the country, and was the earliest seat of its princes. Passing from Margaret Maultasch to Austria, it now belongs to the Emperor, and is in miarge of a relative of Hofer’s Observe the portals of the chapel decorated with singular sculp¬ tures of the 12th cent. The View tiom the castle is, however, its greatest attraction; standing in the angle of a great bend in the valley, it commands both reaches, upward to the Orteler Spitze and other snowy summits, downwards along the exquisitely rich vista Avhich extends towards Botzen, while the opening of the Passey 1- thal is visible behind. [fH/ers House, in the Passeyr- thal, IS about ii m. from Meran, and by the Jaufen pass Sterzing can be reached. Scenery not very striking. See Rte. 216.] IMitterhad, a bath establish¬ ment, popular among the Tyro¬ lese, is about 15 m. distant, up the Ultenthal, full of picturesque scenery. It opens on W. side of the Adige, a little below Meran, G 163 Bte. 21L—MILAN to INNSBRUCK, 164 and by a pedestrian may bo reached by Marling and Ob. Lana, or by a vehicle round by Burg- stall (on road to Botzen) and Unter Ijana.] The road from Meraii keeps close to the hills on 1. hand side of the valley; those opposite are of the most picturesque and varied character, and are studded with castles and villages. Or¬ chards and vineyards cover the low grounds, with exception of some marshy and unhealthy tracts near the Adige, productive only of fevers, leeches, and reeds. The castles of Lebenherg and Brandeis are seen successively W. of Adige. 5 m. Burgstall. Here a road turns off and crosses the Adige to the Ultenthal. J m. Vilpian (post station). At 3 m. Terlan is a leaning tower to the ch.; and MaultascJi, a favourite residence of IMargaret, is seen above. The best vineyards of Tyrol extend on 1 . hand as far as Botzen, and good wine is made at Terlan. The castle of Greifenstein occu¬ pies an almost inaccessible point of rock L, and Boch Eppan and Sigmundslcron apj^ear across the valley to the S. The road, clinging to the foot of the hills, now turns E., and the jogged outline and peculiar forms of the Dolomite mtns. beyond Botzen come into view; the effect of sunset is very line upon them. Beyond Gries the stream of the romantic Sarnthal opening N. is crossed by a wooden bridge imme¬ diately before entering Botzen (Inn, Kaiserkrone). Sec 6 Ete^ 217. Rte. 214.-MILAN to INNS- BKUCK, by the PASS of the STELVIO. (Stilfser Joch.) MILAN (Rail) to ENG. M. Monza . . . 8.J- liccco... 4 20 Colico. ... 26 Sondrio . t . 27^- ENG. M. Bormio . . 46)- Mals. ... 36 Innsbruck . 97 26G Railway serves as far as Monza, 20 min., and thence the post-rd. goes by Lecco and along the E. shore of Lake of Como. Most people, however, will prefer to avail them¬ selves of the trains (? daily in i hr. 20 min.) to Como, and the steamer on the Lake to Colico (in j^hrs.). "With 3 post- horses, and by aid of Laufzettel, the journey can then be performed in 48 hrs., exclusive of stoppages; to Colico by rail and steamer, 5 hrs; Bormio, 12 hrs.; Mals, 10 hrs.; Landeck, 10 hrs.; Inns¬ bruck, 10 hrs. Vorsptinner (leaders) from Bormio or Mals to summit on either side. Lights should be provided in case of passing through the galleries aftct dark, —it is better not to do so. Best sleeping- places are Varenna, Sondrio, Bormio, Trafoi or Mals, Nauders or FinstermUnz, Imst. A voiturier will usually make it 6 days from Colico, sleeping at Sondrio the first night. JJils. from Lccco to Colico 2 or 3 times a-week, and from Colico to Sondrio and Bormio daily. They have ceased to pass the Stelvio. Post-houses on the pass not well supplied with horses. Inquire condition of the road, which is falling into ruin. The great feature of this route is the wonderful pass of the Stelvio. The rd. over it is the highest in Em’ope available for carriages 165 Ilte>_ 21 ^.~hy the PASS of the STELVIO. 166 (9177 ft.), but it will probably not long remain so, as, since the loss of Lombardy, Austria does not keep it in repair-, and the Tyrol side is dilapidated. It is probable, however, that tlie inn¬ keepers on both sides will corr- trive to keep it open. The winter- storms annually commit great ravages, and snow always ren¬ ders the passage dangerous, but irom June to October- it has hitlierto been pretty safe. No carriage - rd. commands such grand and varied scenery as this. It was constrrrcted by the Aus- trran Government to facilitate then- hold upon Lombardy; was plairned and executed by the en¬ gineer Donegani, and finished in 1825. The most interesting scenes are, the shores of the Lake of Como, where the rd. is cut for nriles thiough solid rock ; the gorge and galleries on the Italian side of the Stelvio; the view of the Orteler Spitze range fi-om the summit ; arrd of the glaciers lower- down which the rd., like no other Alp¬ ine rd., airproaches to within a stone s-throw. 1866 it was restored to Italy. 34 sovereigns, including Charles V. and Napoleon L, have been crowned with it. The treasury ot ch. still contains many curi¬ ous objects. The Palazzo Communale, a venerable edifice, is said to have been part of Emp. Barbarossa’s palace. (See Handbooks for N. Cermany and N. Itcdy for more extended notice of Monza.) The rd. runs by the park wall (10 m, rn circumference) of the Palace, a large but rrot imposing building. Country is like a vasl orchard; fruit-trees and virres are rnteilaced, and villas are nume¬ rous on all sides. Just beyond • the rd, descends 9 n rnto Valley of the Adda, which rrver here bears almost the ap¬ pearance of a string of lakes. Bd. skirts the W. side of Lago Carlate, a prolongation of the Lago di Lecco, and at a narrow part crosses, by a long bridge of 14th cerrt,, to Milan. Bail to *2m. Monza {Inns: Palazzo Eeale; Albeigo del Castello; Falcorre; Angelo). Observe the alternative menhoned above, of proceeding on to Como, and taking steamer to Colico. Monza, i 6 , 38 g lnhab., was the ancient residence of the Lom¬ bard kings. Cathedral of St. John, forrnded by Theodoliirda, 595 a.d was rebuilt in 14th centy. The celebrated Iron Crown of the Lombard kings was preserved in oire of the chapels till r 85 9, when it was removed to Vienna. In Lecco {Inns : Croce di Malta ; H Leone d’Oro); Pop. 8000, and rncreasmg; a beautiful situation at the outlet of the Adda, from that branch of Lake of Como call¬ ed Lagro di Lecco. Mountains of bold and striking outline, and of special interest to the botanist, lie E. and N. Mte. Pesegone (Gt. Saw), E., well answers to its name, and is wortli an excursion from Lecco. But the more lofty are Mte. Campione (7158 ft.), and Mte. Grigna (7908 ft.), both to the ' N., and best reached on the N side. [A rd. leads up between Pesegone and Camjnone to vill. of Ballabio, and thence descends to Introbbio {Inn, delle Miniere, good and moderate); charmim’ G 2 167 Bte. 2U.—MILAN to INNSBRUCK, 168 centre for excursions at head of Val Sassina.'] The rd., now carried along E. shore of lake, is formed partly by- cutting a shelf out of the cliffs, which here descend vertically to the water, partly by building up a wall of masonry, partly by boring tunnels through them. Be¬ yond the small vill. of 8m. Olcio occur the principal of tliese galleries; three are up¬ wards of 3000 ft. long. The views ‘of the lake are of enchanting beauty, especially towards the upper portion. Op¬ posite the end of the promontory dividing the Lecco from the Como branch there is a 5 m. Cascade (Fiiime Latte) ; it is¬ sues from a cavern in face of the precipice to rt., and is a beautiful object from the lake; dry in autumn. 1 m. Varenna {Lin : Alb. Beale, good but dear) is beautifully situated, and a delightful resting-i^lace for. a few days, but is very hot in summer. {Ascent of the Grigna made from here). DBellagio, the finest point of view on the lake, is i hr. row across. Visit Villa Serhelloni for the prospect. One hour takes you to Majolica {Inn, la Ville de Milan, first-rate). The Villa Car- lotta or Sommariva beyond, near Cadenabbia (good Inn), W. shore, is well worth seeing, now the pro¬ perty of Duke of Saxe-Meinin- gen; it contains fine works by Thorwaldsen and Canova.] More galleries begin ^ a mile from Varenna ; at Kigoledo, on a liigh terrace, is a good Hydro¬ pathic Establishment. At Bellano {Inn : • Albergo della 3 m. Torre, fair and moderate) the Pioverna issues from a ravine celebrated for its picturesqueness; its waterfall, Orrido di Nesso, has lowever lost much of its beauty from the descent of a mass of > rock. [The Pioverna flows i through Val Sassina. Introbbio, ^ at its head, can best be reached on foot (see above).] I 1 Dervio, with a castle celebrated 2 m. J in middle ages,, stands on margin . of the lake. The rd. beyond skirts a land-locked bay, Lago di Fiona, and passes the base of 1 Mte. Legnone (8568 ft.), to reach | Colico {Inns: Angelo (H. du 7 ni.j Lac), homely, but not bad; Isola S Bella, higher up, better); an un- a healthy vill.; avoid sleeping, on P account of malaria. S' Boats can be engaged here, but are un- V safe to embark carriages. A steamboat S twice a-duy, calling at noon at Bomaso, B opposite, if, as sometimes in summer, fl water is not too shallow. Quickest way, B to or from Milan, is by this boat and fl rail (see above). fl A marshy plain surrounds Co- I lico. The rd. quits the lake, ■ and presently fl The Spliigen Rd. branehesl mj oft’ N., and remains of the old |S Spanish Fort of Fuentes (built ■ when Milan belonged to Spain, K and destroyed by the French in K 1786) are seen in that direction R on a low hill. Our rd. now enters R Yaltelline (Val Tellina; Germ. R Veltlin), or Valley of the Adda. ■ This lower part of it is a dreary ■ district, the river stagnating in a ® morass exhaling deadly miasma, but, with this exception, it is full of noble scenery. 1 G 9 lite. 214 . -hy the PASS of the STELVIO. 170 llistory.— ln 1620 the Pro- testant inhab. were subjected to expatriation and massacre, a sort of iesser St. Bartholomew. In 1635 the valley was the scene of a struggle between French and Austrians. From 1512 to r 79 7 it l^longed to the Swiss Canton of the Prisons; was then attached to hingdom of Italy; was united to Bombardy by Congress of Vienna, and regarded as an important means of communication with Bieir Italian possessions by the House of Austria. In 185 9 it was ceded with Lombardy to Sardinia, and IS now part and parcel of the Italian hingdoni. The rd climbing up the slopes on the _ S. side of the valley (mountains fine on either hand) reaches {Inn, Regina d Inghilterra, good, and not dear), a well-built and well- placed town. The scenery is rich • and Me della Disgrazia, an out¬ lier ot the snow-covered Bernina chain is seen N.E., forming a gland background. Command¬ ing I'eeu; from the hill of the old castle. Neighbourhood has been lamous for excellent silk. leads up by Val del Bitto S over the Pass of San Marm, and by Val d'Orta; into Val Bremhana, and so to Bergamo possible in one long dav o/ keeping more to W., the Pizz’o aei Ire Signori (about 8600 ft) can be ascended for its fine ]^inorama. Piazza, 25 m. from Beigamo, or Zogno, about 12 m., viil afford night quarters. The scenery of Val Brembana is in¬ teresting and unexplored.] LThe Val Masino, a wild and striking valley, opens N., acces- "" ehar-rd. to the Bagni del Masino, 10 m., amidst magni- nceiit scenery, and in close neigh- bourlmod of Me. della Vugmzia ( 1 2,074 tt.), which IS best seen and only accessible from tliis side, (i 01 the ascent a good startina-- V “r liiglicst herd-hut in V. di Mello, or still better that in the \al Sasso Bisolo). Two or three fine passes for mountaineers (the Zocca, the finest) lead over mto Val Bregaglia, and so to lavenna. Baths offer fair ac- commodation, 3750 ft. above sea; I lorclli, good guide.] 4 m. Eridp over the Adda at a turn of the valley. Bridge carries the rd. again to 1. bank, and the valley resumes Its straight course eastward, form¬ ing an extensive vista. A third Bridge returns the 2 ra. to the rt. bank. The fre- quefoly varying_ course of the Adda, due to inundations, de¬ prives this part of the valley of much of its beauty. The succes¬ sive valleys opening S. lead gene¬ rally to steep jiasses communicat¬ ing with the Bergamesque Val¬ leys S. of the chain. Northward, to 1. of the traveller, but out of ’ I!® great snow masses ot the Bernina chain. Sondrio (Inns: Post, large and8 good; Alb. della Maddalena, com¬ fortable), a small but cheerful- looking town, the capital of the valtelline, and residence of a pre¬ fect; 3784Inhab., 1198 ft. above situation picturesque, at sea. entrance of Val Malenco, from which issues the Malero, a stream frequently very destnictive to Sondrio, and which, guarded by niassive embankments, is con¬ ducted to the Adda. 171 172 nte. 2U.-MILAN to INmBBVCK, There is a fine view from tlie ancient castle of Masegra, attainec. by a slight ascent. fAt Ill’s, from Sondrio, up Val Malenco, is Chiesa {Inn, Osteria Vecchia, best, but very inditferent), amidst noble scenery. The grand snow mass of the Bernina is in front N., and that of Mte. della Disgrazia W. Be¬ tween the two is the Muretto Pass, leading to Casaccia in Val Bregaglia. By the Val Lauterna, opening N.E. of Chiesa, is a path, which, crossing the Canciano Pass. E., leads to Poschiavo or le Prese. (See below.) From tlie Canciano Pass the^ ascent of the Pizzo /ScaZmo (10,925 ft.) can bo made, offering tlie finest point of view of the Bernina group from the S. side.] On leaving the town, a fine hospital, built by a private in¬ dividual, is seen. Hence the scenery is somewhat uninterest¬ ing, but the vineyards on 1. have a certain fame, and numerous vil¬ lages are interspersed among them. 12 m. Tresenda {Inn, very poor). Above, on the 1 ., marked by a watch-tower on a jutting rock, is Teglio, now a village, but once the capital of the Valtelline (Val Teglino), to which it gave its name. [A good rd. here leads S. by a bridge over the Adda to the Aprica. Pass, and so to Edolo and Val Camonica S., or to the pass of Mte. Tonale N. A glorious view along the course of the Adda from summit of Aprica Pass, or from an inn near it called Belve¬ dere, There arc short cuts for a pedestrian. A carriage takes 2 Ill’s, to ascend and i hr, to return. See Rte. 231.] Madonna di Tirano {Inn : San 6 m. Michele, good; better than those at Tirano); a village thus named fi’om the marble ch. of the Virgin, a famous sanctuary (founded 15 20), at a point where the Poschiavo valley and stream open upon the Valtelline. Fine view from ter¬ race of ch. of Sta. Pei’iietua. [ A carriage-rd. (improved since 1863) leads up the Pos¬ chiavo valley and over the Ber¬ nina pass to Pontresina (36 m.) and the Engadine. Swiss frontier is only i m. from Madonna di Tirano; worth a stroll to the ruined fort. The beautiful Lahe of Poschiavo is 5 m. further; at le Prese, on its banks, are Baths offering comfortable quarters in a delightful situation (see Swiss K. Guide)'} The I’d., shaded by fine ave¬ nue of poplars, turns to the river, and crosses to Tirano {Inn : Due Torri, best; ^ m. all inferior), small but ancient town; 2 700 Inhab.; containing deserted palaces of the Visconti, Palavicini, Salis, and other noble families. It has frequently suf¬ fered from inundations of the Adda. Eoad passes through a defile to Sernio; a landslip from ]\Ite. 2 m. Massucio 1 . in 1807 choked the defile, and formed a lake extend¬ ing several miles up to Tovo, but which burst after 11 days, cari’y- ing desolation down the valley. At Lovero, a mark, 18 ft. from the 2 m. ground, shows the depth of water at that i)oint. Village spires and ruined castles abound in this part of the valley, always of much mili- I tary importance. At 173 nte. 2U.~bij the PASS of the STELVIO. 174 2 ^ m. Mazzo, rd, crosses to rt. baiilc, and at 21 ni. Grrosotto, the plot of tlio mas^ Sucre of Protestants in 1620 was laid in a house near the Inn (Posta).^ [The FaZ (rrosma opens h, otfering interesting-' paths to Poschiavo.J The valley, adorned by noble chestnut-trees, becomes very picturesque. 5 m. Bolladore {Inn, Post, tolerable). Across the river is Sondalo, cliief place of Upper Valteline. A picturesque ch. and ruined castle are seen 1,, and soon after Mon- dadizza, the rd. having crossed stream, tlie Ved di Eezzo oj)ens E. [Path by this to Sta. Cata¬ rina (Rte, 214 A.] The rd. here at Leprese has entered 8 m. A Defile, formerly closed by a gate and wall; and at 2 m. Ponte del Diavolo, centre of the defile, recrosses the torrent, Ee- mains of fortification are seen at difierpt points. The defile, and with it the Vcdtelline, ceases near 5 ra. Ceppina, a vill. to the 1 ., and the Val Ceppina is entered upon. Part of Mte. Cristallo, belonging to the Orteler range is now in sight, and the traveller soon reaches 4 m. Bormio or Worms (Inns: none good ; Posta, tolerable; best to go on to the new Baths m. Jiigher up, but these are closed after Sep¬ tember ; ^ jjost charged to drive there). This town, 4016 ft. above sea, and surrounded by snowy mountains, is very ancient. Once actively concerned in the trade be¬ tween Venice and the Grisons, it was burnt by French, 1799; again by accident in 1855; and now scarcely numbers 1000 Inhab. De¬ licious honey is sold here packed in boxes, and Sassella, the best wine of the Valtelline, may be had everywhere between this and Milan. The richness and beauty of the Valtelline is now exchanged for Alpine scenery—“ II freddo paese.” Winter begins in Octo¬ ber. The rd. ascends to the New Baths; 60 apartments, 1| and fair accommodation when not over-full; closed end of Septem¬ ber; baths supplied from hot, saline, sulphureous springs, near the old bathing-house, a short dis¬ tance above. [Foiu- valleys open out at Bor¬ mio. r. The Val Furva, from S.E, 3 hrs. along a char-rd. bring to the baths of Sta, Catarina; fair accommodation, and charges rea¬ sonable ; situation very grand / fine centre for mountain excur¬ sions. Thence a path conducts in 8 hrs. over pass of Corno dei tre Signori to Pejo (Rte. 214 a), whence the Val di Sole 7 s easily reached, and then Trent in a day (Etc. 220). 2. Val Dentro, W. By this the traveller, turning 1. into Val Viola and crossing a pass into Val Cmnpo, may reach- the rd. from Tirano to Pontresina at Piscia- della. Or, leaving Val Viola to 1 ,, and crossing the low pass of Fos~ cagno, he descends by tlie short lateral valley of Trepalle into the sequestered Val Livigno, where, 6 hrs. from Bormio, is a poor Thence there are 2 or 3 ways into the Engadine, about 6 hrs. fur¬ ther. Scenery all very wild; a good guide required. 3. Val Fraele, N.W., often con¬ sidered to hold the main stream of the Adda; by this a mule-path, 175 nte. 2.U.—MILAN to INNSBRUCK, 176 winch enters Yal Fraele from Val Dentro, goes to St. Maria in IMiinster Thai, and reaches the Valley of the Adige at Glurns (see Kte. 213). 4. The Yal di Braulio (or Um- hrail), which our road ascends.J The ascent of the pass begins immediately behind Bormio. It is reckoned at from 8^ to 12 hrs., according to weight of carriage, state of road, &c., to Prad, on the other sid-'. Distance, from the windings of the rd., 27 m. Walking, without stoppages, it is about si hi’s. from Bormio on one side, to Trafoi (good quarters) on the other. Near the Old Bath the road crosses a deep chasm by a Bridge, blown up in 1859 by the Austrians to check the (>ari- baldian rifles. The pass was again disputed in 1866. Below, 1., is meeting of the torrents from Val Fraele and Val di Braulio. The former issues from between vertical rocks, and the only entrance to the valley is at a great height above them; the latter descends from one of the most savage defiles in the Alps, up which our rd. turns, passing along the edge of a tremendous precipice. Tlie 1 st Gallery, called dei Bagni, succeeds the bridge. At its entrance is an inscription re¬ cording the names of the 2 Italian engineers who planned and com¬ pleted this marvellous rd. The Braulio, or, as some call it, the Adda, is seen bursting from a cavern in face of the op¬ posite jirecipice. The rd. turns rt. up a deep .and savage gorge, and is carried through several tunnels in the rock. The 1 st Cantoniera, or house of refuge, is near the lower end of the defile. The rd. is protected by artificial galleries between this and The 2 n(i Cantoniera, near the upper end of the gorge, called the first stage out of Bormio, but no longer supplied with horses. Immediately afterwards The Ponte Alto crosses the torrent of the Val Vitelli. [A glacier descends this valley from the snowy masses of Mte. Cris- tallo, a portion of the great Orteler group, ascended from this point by Mr. Tuckett, 1864.J The rd. then ascends by ter¬ races and zigzags the steep slope of Spondalunga (the long wall), whence is a striking view of the 7 galleries already passed, look¬ ing like a long battery. The rd. is carried in zigzags and sup¬ ported by walls up this steep and difficult part of the ascent. Beyond, it crosses tlie Braulio torrent by a Bridge, and presently reaches tlie 3 rd Cantoniera, and the wild open basin below the summit. Further on is Sta. Maria, or 4 tli Cantoniera, 12 a group of buildings, comprising the former jiost-house, the Italian custom-house, and a large Inn, comfortless and dirty, but suffici¬ ent for a mountaineer’s quarters. [The Swiss frontier is here close at hand, 1., and the ancient pass of the Worniser Jocli, leads in 3 hrs. to Sta. Maria in the 177 Rte. 214.—5?/ the PASS of the STELVIO. 178 Munster Thai, whence the Aclio-e can be gained at Glunis in 4 hrs. (see Rte. 213). The Austrian government, unable to pin chase this once much-used pass, Avere obliged to carry the rd. oyer the higher and more lormidable Stelvio. A good View from the ridge of the ormser, easily reached : many I’are Alpine plants.J An ascent, not steeji, leads to tlie 1000 ft. above Sta, Maria (a pedestrian can shorten ^^^tance). This, in German Stilfser Joch, is 9177 ft. above sea, 900 above lino of perpetual snow, and 1500 ft. higher than any other carriage-rd. in Eu¬ rope. 1 frontier is marked by an o jelisk and a solitary house, ■i'et dincindshohe, now deserted. fA footpath leads over slate shingle in 20 min. N. to a pro¬ jecting rock commanding a won¬ derful panorama; or, in i hr., Mte. Plessura (9941 ft.), N.N.e! can bo ascended, Avhence the view extends from the Bernina, intns. of the Oetzthal on the other.J The scene has now changed to snow and glacier, and above all coinprises the mighty Orteler Spdze, 12,811 ft. . C This, the loftiest and most interesting of the Tyrolean mtns and recognised from great dis¬ tances along the range of the Alps westward, forms a northern spur from a vast mass of snowy summits, generally termed the Orteler group, circling round from the Stelvio pass on the W. to the Gavia pass, leading to Vai Camonica, on the S., and of which Mte. Cristallo (11,370 ft.), the Thunoieser Sp. (11,962 ft.),’ and the Madatsch Sp. on the Stelvio side ; the Kdniqsspitze ft.), Mte. Zehru (12,255), till lately confounded with it and Zufall Sp. (12,344 ft., more tiiily called Mte. Cevedale, or Oeval Sp.) near the centre of the -F'onwccm (11950 7 *77 (^>920 ft.), Pizzo della Mare (11,920 ft.), and Mte. Iresero, 11,800 ft., to the S., aio the most noticeable mem¬ bers. Of these the Konigsspitze ranks next to the Orteler in importance, not only ivith re¬ spect to the group, but the whole of the Austrian Alps; and from the N. especially, forms an almost equally grand object, from the centre mass several minor ranges, or spurs, are pro¬ jected ; the Orteler itself N., as already said, forms one of these ; and 2 others project in like manner fiom the outer side of the curve ■ one, to the N.E., has for its highest summit the Mittlere Reder Spitze, 11,349 ft.; the other, stretching E., is of greater length, and includes the Venezia fejiitze, Zufrid Sp., and Eggen Sji., 11,214 ft. Between these two ranges lies the Martell Thai. Within the curve, and proieetino’ S.Vf., is a well-marked spui° ending in Mte. Confinale (11,076’ ft.), which offers thus a noble View. The valleys on either side of this latter ridge, and enclosed by the two arms of the curve, are respectively Valle del Zehru and Val Forno. They are mag¬ nificent in their scenery, to which the Baths of Sta. Catarina, at the junction of the latter val¬ ley Avith Val Furva, afford ready access. For St. Catarina, ascent 179 me. 214:.—MILAN io INNSBRUCK, 180 of Mte. Confinale, at foot of wMch it lies, and further details of the Orteler group, see Kte. 214 a.] The Descent on the Tyrol side is carried down a steep slope by nearly 50 zigzags; and pro¬ tected by a series of wooden galleries (now falling into de¬ cay), from the avalanches which in spring sweep the moun¬ tain face and plunge into the Madatsch glacier below on tlie rt. A post-house on this slope was destroyed in 1836 by an avalanche, the post-master being found dead under a huge frag¬ ment of rock. Half-way down, oil a sheltered platform, is Franzenshohe, the 2 nd Can- toniera from summit (7200 ft.), formerly a large post-station, with extensive stables. Hence is tlie best view of the Madatsch glacier and the Madatsch Spitze (11,244 ft.) above. Here also the woods of the Trafoi Tiial below begin to be visible. At the Gth Cantoniera (called del B08C0, from the first occurrence of fir-trees), in ruin since 1848, the rd. is nearly on a level with the glacier, by the side of which is a small pilgrimage chapel. The view of the Orteler Spitze is now gradually lost, but the Weiss Kugel, one of the Oetzthal snow-peaks, comes into view. The rd. descends by wind¬ ing terraces to 7111. Trafoi (Inn, Post, homely and small but comfortable, with an excellent hostess, 20 beds, and 6 stoves), 5079 ft. A hamlet of half- a-dozen chalets. Best place to sleep lefore crossing the pass. 7 hrs. drive from Bormio, 3 from Prad, 3 lira, for a pedestrian from sum¬ mit. A short but very striking walk should be taken if possible from Trafoi, f of an hour over mea¬ dows, and up a short glen, to the Ileiligen drei Brunnen{ TresFontes, whence Trafoi). Here three streams issue from the breasts of 3 sacred figm’es, protected by a shed, and hard by a small chapel of the Virgin, an object of fre¬ quent pilgrimage. The spot was probably a sanctuary in pagan times, and the grandeur and beauty of the surrounding scenery are “indescribable.” TItree great glaciers, the Unterer and Oberer Trafoi, and tlie Madatsch, descend towards the head of this glen. [T/te Ascent of the Orteler Spitze is effected from the Trafoi side by 3 routes, 2 of wliich start from the Ileiligen drei Brunnen. The old rte. climbed up a steejr tangled wooded slope for about 1000 ft. to the foot of the Pleis, an ice couloir constituting the priuci])al difficulty of the ascent; thence a plateau of neve. was gained, and only time and labour were required to reach the summit. Mr. Tuckett, in 1864, successfully varied this route by avoiding the Pleis, and striking up a iiollow, called the Taharetta Thai, filled with glaciers in its upper portion, and exposed to falling rocks, but from which the great slojre of snow and ice leading to the summit was more easily reached. A third route has since been taken which reaches tiie head of the Taharetta Thai, up the next hollow to the N., and by a director course from Trafoi, This and one from the Sulden- thal appear to be the best routes, and the ascent may be consi¬ dered tolerably easy and safe for 181 Itte. 214,—% ihe PASS of the STELVIO, 182 those accustomed to snow, and to require not more than between 6 and 7 hrs. walking. The View is magnificent’ for the vast array of snow-peaks on every point of the compass, except the E., which is filled by a forest of the “ glorious Eolomites.” Joseph Schopf is the best guide, and Ortler of Gomagoi knows the old route.J The road below Trafoi crosses backward and forward two or three times over the stream. The scenery of the valley is unsur¬ passed by any other Alpine land¬ scape. At 2* m. Gomagoi (a poor Inn), 3901 ft., is a toll-house and a fort, built since i860. [The Sulden Thai opens here rt,, and the glacier at its head appears in view. At Sulden (St. Gertrud) the jiriest’s house oflers quarters; also Gampenlwfe, near the foot of the glacier, of a rougher sort. This may be reached in 4 or 5 hrs. The secluded valley offers “features of the highest order of grandeur,” and there is a superb view of the Orteler Spitze f]-om the summit of the glacier, by which also is a pass into the Martell Thai (described Ete. 213 j; or, by a variation of course, the base of the Konigsspitze can be I'eached, and the ascent effected (only feasible for practised moun¬ taineers). From the Suldenthal also is an interesting route to the head of Val Forno, and so to Sta. Catarina. It leads by the Sulden Gl. over the Janiger Scharte, or Eissee Joch, to the iqiper portion of the Langereferner at the head of the Martellthal, and thence nearly at a level over the Oeve- dale Pass. There are 2 rtes. to ih.Q summit of the Orteler from/S'#. Gertrud, which, if a hut is built on W. shoulder of the Tabaretta Sp., may become better than any other, as the starting-point is 1000 ft. higher. The 1st rte. reaches in 4 hrs. a notch in the ridge, i hr. N. of Tabaretta Sp., and visible from St. Gertrud. Hence the “ Tuckett rte. is joined in 2 hrs., and sum¬ mit reached in 3 more. 2nd Pte. makes for the ridge S. of the Ta¬ baretta Sp,, but success beyond, much depends on state of snow. Pinggera, of Ausser Sulden, a good guide.2 Passing Gomagoi, the vill. of Stilfs or Stelvio, whence the ^xass takes its name, is high up on the 1 . The steep slopes of mica schist, in the lower valley, are very treacherous- in rainy weather, sending down rocks and stones upon the rd. At Schmetz, a small group of houses. Passports are asked for. Prad (Inn, Eoss, tolerable), 4 m. the chief village, though a poor one, of the valley, with a very ancient ch. on a hillock. [A pleasant footpath by Agums and Glums, 7 m., to illaZs.J A causeway carries the rd. across the Valley of the Adige to the Bridge of Spondinig (J?w,li ni decent), where our rte. joins that “ leading E. to Botzen, or N. to Innsbruck. Mals (Inn, Post) : hence to 7 m. Innsbruck, see Ete. 213. (Time for walking over Stelvio .-—Prad to Trafoi, 2 hrs.; Franzenshohe, ; sum- mit, If- ; Sta. Maria, f; Baths of Bormio; 3 hrs. in all, exclusive of stoppages. By a light caUche with 2 homes from Fi ad to Bormio and hack, good weather, —to FranzenshOhe, 4 hrs.; Sta. Maria, 2 ; Baths 183 Bte. 2UA.—B0RMI0 to VAL DI SOLE 184 of Bormio, 2 . Return to Sta. Maria, 35 hrs.; summit, f hr.; Prad. 4 hrs.) 97 m. Innsbruck (Ete. 212.) (Starting from Innsbruck, the best halting-places are, perhaps, Imst, 1st day; Finstermlinz, or Nauders, 2nd; Trafoi, jrd; Bormio Baths, 4th ; Morbegno, 5tb ; whence Como or Milan the 6th). Rte. 214 A.-BOEMIO to MALE in VAL DI SOLE. BORMIO to ENG.M. HUS. Sta. Catarina .9 3 Pejo. 16 8 Fusine, Val di Sole .... 6 2 Male. 10 3 A char-rd. up Val Furva to Sta. Cata¬ rina, and thence rough mountain walking over the pass to Val di Sole. A pedestrian bound from the N. for South Tyrol, and wishing to see the Stelvio en route, may, after reaching Bormio, traverse by the course here indicated magnificent scenery, reacli the interesting valleys of Sole and Non, and emerge upon the Valley of the Adige between Botzen and Trent; or, striking S. from Male, make for the Lago di Garda through the splendid district of the Adamello. At Bormio the Frodolfo issues from Val Furva; a char-rd. as¬ cends the rt. bank. St. Nicolo is the chief vill. of 2 m the valley; further on the Val del Zebru opens on the 2 m N., leading into the heai-t of the Orteler group and noble glacier scenery. Mte. Confiuale stands at the S. corner, dividing it from Val Furva, which now bends south¬ ward round the base of this mtn. Our rd. ascends it to Santa Catarina (5 720 ft.) The 5 m Inn here, a large building, is apt to be crowded during the short summer — the village itself is deserted before winter; quarters rougli, but comfortable, and charges reasonable. The object of the visitors is to drink the chalybeate waters, which are largely bottled and exported. The surrounding scenery is of the highest order. 3 Ite. Tresero (see below) stands imposingly on the S.E., and a magnificent pano¬ rama is obtained by an Ascent of Alte. Con finale, 11,076 ft. The path is through the vill., and up the 1. bank of a torrent on the mountain side, over slopes into an elevated gully, and by a scramble up the cliffs at its head, by which the snow-field is gained; this leads to the foot of the final rocks, which are easily climbed; 4 hrs. (without halts) are well suflicient. The view includes nearly all the highest summits of the Orteler and Lombard Alps, and displays in particular the conformation of the Orteler group, which ranges N. and E., and circles round to the S. The peaks of Mte. Cris- tallo commence the range on the W. The peak of the Orteler is seen lying back to the N. The Zebru Spitze follows, and the Kcinigs- spitze (see Ete. 214) shows itself 185 lUe. ‘iUA.—BOItMlO to VAL DI SOLE, ]86 grandly next to it on the E. The Zufall Spitze (or Mte. Ceve- dale), direct E., marks the bend of the curve, which ends S.E. in the Viozzi Spitz, Pizzo della IMare, and Mte. Tresero. Besides this magnificent array the Ada- mello snowy group is seen further to the S.; in the N.W. is Piz Linard, and the W. is occupied by the group of the Bernina. [From Sta. Catarina a pass leads uj) Val Fomo, and N. of Mte. Cevedale into the Martell- tiled; or, round by the Janiger Scharte or Eissee Joch into the Suldentlial, both valleys, and especially the latter, remarkable for grandeur of scenery, described Rtes. 213 and 214.] {Val Form strikes otf N.E. from Sta. Catarina, and the great snovy masses to the S. of it were, up to 1865, a terra incog¬ nita. In that year they were ex¬ plored by Mr. Tuckett. Reckon¬ ing from Mte. Cevedale (Zufall Spitze), at the head of the valley, the principal peaks are, succes¬ sively, ahitherto nameless summit, La Fornaccia, (11,950 ft.), be¬ lieved now to be tlie loftiest of tlie group; Viozzi Spitz, (11,920 ft.) ; Saline (11,883 ft.); Palle della ]Mare(iT,855ft.); Giumella( 11,842 ft.); Pizzo della Mare (i 1,920 ft.) ; and Mte. Tresero (i 1,800 ft.), end¬ ing the group to the W. in an abrupt and noble peak. The Forno Glacier, hr. from Sta. Catarina, is probably the finest glacier of the whole Orteler group. A pass (ir,ioo?ft.) has been made by it between the Fornaccia and the Viozzi Sp. into the upper part of the Val della Mare,—from Sta. Catarina to Cogolo,—in about 10 hrs.; and another still more direct between the Viozzi and Saline to the Baths of Pejo in about 9 hrs. Domenico Venere of Cogolo, a good guide.] From Sta. Catarina Val Gavia opens S. Up this valley our course lies by a steep path, at first on W. side of torrent, leaving on rt. A path, leading W. over a 1 hr. pass into Val Rezzo. [By this the Valtelline, above Bolladore, can be reached much sooner than by Bormio.] The path then crosses to rt. bank and continues on lofty precipices and amidst the wildest scenery till Near the summit of the pass, 2 hrs. where rt. is Lago Bianco, and 1 . the Corno dei Tre Signori, 10,910 ft., and there is a choice of 2 loays into Val di Sole, (a) By the Gavia Pass, the easier, but more cu-cuitou.s, con¬ tinues over The Eidge, 8500 ft., in front, snow often lingering late in the stern alpine basin that leads to it; Mte. Gavia standing W., and the Corno dei Tre Signori E. The descent is into Val Mazza, where a small lake, Lago Nero, the source of the Oglio, is f)assecl rt. The path continues along the 1 . bank of the stream. High peaks enclose the glen on all sides. Then Lago Silissi, an expanse of water surrounded by reeds, is passed, and the vill. of Pezzo is reached. Hence is a good track on W. side of Oglio to Ponte di Legno (a i^oor Inn). 4 hrs. The distance from Sta. Catarina is between 7 and 8 hrs. 187 Rte. 214 a.— i?OWIO. to VAL DI SOLE. 188 The traveller is now on the carriage-rd. from Val Oamonica over the fine Tonale Pass into Val Sole, described Kte* 220. Male is distant about 25 ms (b) By the Sforzellina Pass. Before reaching summit of Gavia Pass turn 1 ., no path, up the steep N. flanks of the Gorno dei Tre Signori (10,910 ft.), the final spur of the Mte. Tresero range, and so named because the former territories of Venice, Switzerland, and Austria once met there. The neve of a small Glacier is crossed, and the summit of the Sforzellina ridge (9950 ft.), be¬ tween the Corno and the great snow masses to the N., is reached ill about I hr’s. climb (or 35 from Sta. Catarina). [From the Gavia Gl. the ascent of the Pizzo della Mare, 11,9 20 ft. (established by Mr. Tuckett in 1865 to be higher than Mte. Tre¬ sero, previously considered the loftiest of the grouji), can bo made by the S. arete in 3 hrs. Panorama about the most won¬ derful in the Aljis. Mt. Blanc seen at distance of 185 m., and IMte. Viso at 210 m. W., and the Gross Glockner on the E. Mte. Tresero, 11,800 ft., was first ascended at same time by Mr. Tuckett. Beached from the head of the Gavia Glacier in if hr. Descent, 3 hrs. to Sta. Catarina, by S.W. arete to a small glacier, and scrambling down its rt. bank into Val Furva.] The descent, keeping to 1 . bank of the torrent, is long, but not difficult, into Val Bormina, wliicli turns N.E., and through which runs the Nos (Nocc). At about 10 m., or 4 hrs., from summit, a little above the juiict. of another valley, Val della Mare, from the N., stand the Baths of Pejo, frequented by water-drinkers, and provided with 2 or 3 small inns, closed early in autumn. [The Val della Mare, one of the wildest glens in the Orteler group, stretches up to the foot of Mte. CeVedale (12,344 ft., Zufall Spitze) N.W., and of the Venezia Spitze (10,512 ff.) N.E. The latter belongs to a branch of the Orteler group, extending east¬ ward, and forming the S. boun¬ dary of the Martellthal, while it is penetrated from S. and E. by the Val della Mare, Val di Babbi, and the Ulten Thai. A principal j^^ak is the Zufrid Spitz (11,262 ft.), at head of Val di Babbi and the Ulten- thaF; but the highest point is the Eggen Spitz (11,263 ft.), an off¬ shoot from the main mass, S.E., and separating the Val di Babbi from the Ultenthal.] The Baths of Pejo are on rt. of the stream. A little further down the valley, which now turns at an angle S.E., is Cogolo, whence a char-rd., cross¬ ing and recrossing the Noce, de¬ scends to Fusine, in VaF di Sole {Inn,G m, of country sort, clean and com¬ fortable). Here, or at next vilL, Pelizzano, a car may bo hired to convey the traveller to Male {Imi, Corona, tolerable, 10 m. 189; Bte. 215.—r/ie OETZTHAL. 190 blit beware of charges). See Rtcs. 220 and 220 a for Val di Non, or for the for finer Vcd di Jtendena. Rte. 215.—The OETZTHAL, PITZTHAL, and KAUNSTHAL. INNSBRUCK to MERAN, by the TIMBLER JOCH; or by the FENDER THAI and HOCH JOCH or NIEDER JOCH. INNSBRUCK to ENG. M. HUS. Octz j ^ — Umhausen. 6 2 Solden.17 Timbler Joch (Col) ... 10 4 St. Leonhard . . . . i . 14 5 Meran. 12 4 SOLDEN to Fend.. 14 5 NiederJoch.— 4 Unsre Frau.— j Naturns. r . , — 4.} Meran ..9.J- — The rd. of the Oetzthal is good as far as Lengenfeld and a little beyond; thence to Solden is a cart-track, often bad. Be¬ yond Solden the upper valleys are tra¬ versed only by footpaths. The passes are over glaciers, requiring good guides. On the S. side the paths are steep and rough before reaching a rd. No pro¬ visions, not even bread, can be relied on in the upper vallej's. Umhausen or Lengenfeld can supply what is necessary, and afford convenient sleeping quarters. Guides recommended are,—in Umhausen, Franz Schdpf, Ferd. and Anton Mar- berger: in Solden: Karlinger (son) and Jos. Gstrein: in Fend, Cyprian Gran- bickler (best), Nikodem Leandor, Hans Klotz, Ferd. Platter; in Gurgl, Tobias Sautner, and Gstrein (Krumpens). The Oetzthal group of mountains presents the largest surface of snow and glacier in Tyrol, per¬ haps even in the whole range of the Alps. Offering an almost unbroken front towards the S., they are approached from the N. by 3 long and deep valleys, all opening upon the Inn. The Kaunsthal, the most westerly, is entered at Prutz, above Landeck; the Pitzthal opens nearly opposite Imst; the Oetzthal, giving name to the group, opens but a few miles more to the E., and is the longest, branches extensively at its head, and is every way the most important. The loftiest mtn. of the group is the Wild Spitze (12,389 ft.), standing for back to the N;, and ranging in height second only to the Gross Glockner, itself below the Orteler and Konigs Spitze.- Several high peaks stretch from this in a line westwards ; and at the S.-western corner is the Weiss Kugel (12,279 ft.), of nearly equal importance with the Wild Spitze. In the centre of the S. front is the SimilaunSpitze (11,823 on® of several which form that great rampart. The whole mass be¬ longs to the great central axis of the Alpine range, and is mainly composed of gneiss. The Oetz¬ thal, running N. and S. for a distance of nearly 50 m., watered by the Ache, offers at its head among these mtns. some of the most romantic scenes in Tyrol, and access to a magnificent array of glaciers, which, however, only good pedestrians and “icemen” can thoroughly enjoy. This upper portion consists of 2 prin¬ cipal branches, the Gurgl Thai 191 me. 215.—ne OETZTHAL. 192 E., and the Fender Thai 'VY.: of these the latter is the longer, and contains far the finer scenery. The i^ople of the Oetztlial are serious in character, eschewing dancing and music; and the women wear on their heads an uncouth muff, like a grenadier’s cap. The Siiilmy Thai group of mountains lies along the eastern side of the Oetzthal, and many travellers include them in the same excursion. The different approaches to them are indicated in the present route; but the Stu- bay Thai group itself is described separately Rte. 215 a. From Innsbruck, see Rte. 212 to 27 m. Silz (Inn, Steinbock). The rd. of the Oetzthal turns off 1 . at a 2 m. Chapel, a little short of Hai- mingen, through a wood, and enters the Oetzthal at 31 m. Brunau (fine Vieio) ; thence descends to the Ache, at a point where the Stuibenbach joins it from the E. [At the head of the Stuihenthal, after passing vill. of Ochsengarten, is the pictu¬ resque scenery of Kiihetay, and a pass over into the Selrainthal, Rte. 215;^^.] The vill. of Sautens is seen on opposite bank before reaching 2|m. Oetz (Inn, [Cassian Wirth, clean). 1300 Inhab.; situated among wooded slopes. [The traveller coming from Imst leaves the valley of the Inn at Roppen, and crossing the hill¬ side with a fine View comes down upon Sautens in 3 to 4 hrs,, whence he crosses the stream and reaches Oetz in \ hr.] Keeping on rt. bank to Habi- chen, the road crosses to Dumpen on 1 . bank, where 3 m is a bell-foundry. Scenery very grand, and enlivened by nu¬ merous cascades on all sides. Road crosses stream, and passes under the Engelsimnd E., so named from a tradition that the only child of the Lord of Schloss Hirschberg, carried off by a Z«m- mergeier, was rescued on the pre- cqiicc by an angel. Umhausen (Inn, Marberger’s, 3 m good, pleasant people, and land¬ lord well acquainted with the country; ash for trout), vill. of 1000 Inhab., in the widest part of the valley. [2 m. up a lateral valley S.E., the Ilairlachthal, is the Stuihen Full, more tlian 5 00 ft.; well worth seeing; 2 hrs. to go and return. A rainbow in the spray is visible in the morning. A path continues up the valley (which turns northward) and crosses a col on the rt. (the Gleirscher Joch) into the Gries- thal, descending into the Selrain¬ thal, Rte. 215 A. By this a pe¬ destrian from Innsbruck might vary route into the Oetztlial.] [From Umhausen on the W. opens the wild valley of the Lairsch, with a path over into the Pitzthal.Ji The valley now narrows into a savage gorge, where the road keeps close to the river; it opens at last upon fine meadow-land, and displays a picturesque view of Lengenfeld (Inn, fair; a good 7 m 193 194 ate. 215 .—TAe OETZTHAL. guide may be engaged here). Tins is a pretty vill., showing the green-painted spire of its ch. from a distance. The Fischbach from the E. divides the Unter from the Ober Lengenfeld. This stream issues from the Sidztlial. [From Gries, its prineipal vill., a path ascends to a col on the S. of the Gries Kogel, and leads into the Lisenzerthal, 8 or 9 hrs., to the “Alpenhaus ”there, see Rte. 215 a. Also from Giies, keeping up the valley to the S., the Mutterherger Jock is reached, leading to the Stubaythal. Ete. 215 a.] 3 m. Huben is at the extremity of the open valley of Lengenfeld, and here the rd. becomes very bad, entering a magnificent ra¬ vine, with merely room, for stream and road, the latter often in the bed of the former. In a roadside chapel, a little beyond Iluben, is a remarkable carving of Christ on the cross, dating from 15th centy. [The Pollesthal opens W., with a path over to Plangeros in the Pitzthal.3 After passing and re¬ passing the stream at Brand and Kaiser, 7 m. Sblden on 1 . bank is reached {hin, Krone, very fair). Tlie valley here widens a little, but soon contracts again into one of the grandest and most precipitous of ravines, where the bad cart- track is succeeded by a good footpath, often, however, damaged by fallen rocks and stones, to the fatal results of wdiich numerous memorial tablets testify. [At Solden the Winacherthal opens E,; a path ascends it, keep¬ ing to rt. bank of the stream, and in about 6 m. turns up a Kp. Tyr. & Alps. lateral glen K.E. to the Winacher glacier, ij hr. of ice work, and crossing the Jock between the Schaufl Sj)itze rt., and the Hoch Spitze 1., descends by In der Fernau and tiie Mutterherger Alp into the Stubaythal, reach¬ ing Neustift, principal vill., and Inn, 12 hrs. from Solden. Rev. Mr. Watson perished on this glacier in a crevasse some years ago. See Rte. 215 a.] After traversing the gorge the valley opens a little at Zwieselstein, where it divides 3 m. into two branches, the Gurglthal 1 ., and the Fenderthal rt. A. By the durglthal (ind Timhler Joch to hlermi. The Gurgl Thai runs nearly due S. from Zwieselstein. The pass of the Timhler Joch is a fre¬ quented mule-track, and not dif¬ ficult. The Timhler Bach enters from 2 m. the E., and the steep track to the Joch leaves the Gurglthal to ascend it. [Continuing up the valley, at about 7 m. from Zwieselstein is Ober Gurgl {Inn, kept by the priest, 3 rooms, 8 beds), a hamlet composed of wretched cowherd huts. Ch. stands on an eminence. Extensive glaciers surround the head of the valley ; and reached by a circuitous path about 5 m. above Ober Gurgl is a small lake {Langthaler Eis See), first formed in 1717 by the sudden descent of the Langthaler glacier. Bursting once, it formed again much larger, and terror spread through the whole Oetzthal. The priest said mass every Saturday in midst of the glacier, and a H commission was sent from InnS' bruck. Fortunately the waters drained off again without doins: mischief, but they have agi collected, and icebergs are occa sionally seen floating upon the surface of the lake. By a path keeping to 1 . of the lake, and by a difficult and de¬ vious ascent over 5 m. of glacier, the Langtluder Joch is reached, 9644 ft., on the E. shoulder of the Hoch Wild Spitze (not the chief Oetzthal mtn. of that name); thence the descent is into the Pfelderthal, a branch of the Passeyr, which latter leads down to Meran. A much shorter route, however, from the Pfelderthal leads over the Spranser Joch, and down the Sprauserthal to Meran. It is a laborious day’s work, but' there are several picturesque little lakes in the Sprauserthal. {Another glacier route from Ob. Gurgl takes the W. side of the lake, and ascends to the Tisch- stein, 2 hrs., where the Saturday service was held. Tlience up the Gt. Oetzthaler glacier, 3 hrs,, to the Gurgler Joch on the E. side of the Ealscbung Spitze, whence it descends into the P-fossenthcd, which leads into the Schnalserthal at Karthaus. See B, Fenderthal route.) The Bamol Joch, from Ob. Gm-gl to Fend, offers a very Excursion. It displays magnifi¬ cently the whole glacier scenery of the Oetzthal, 8 to 10 hrs., 2 guides, ropes, &c. Ascend from Ob. Gurgi to the Langthaler Eis See, then cross the glacier W., and climb the slope beyond to the Kopfle, whence is a very fine view over the Langthaler and Oetzthaler glaciers. From this climb the Joch and descend the glacier on the other side (with a grand view) into the Mederthal a little above Fend.] From Zwieselstein to the Tim- hler Joch the path, after turning out of the Gurgl Thai, crosses to the 1 . bank of the Timbler Bach, by which it ascends till, after crossing it again and following its course some distance further, it bears away to the 1., and for the last hr. over steep bare rock, reaches the Cop (about 7 m. from Zwiesel- 5 stein); scenery not worth much. ra. Descent is at first very steep down a short lateral valley, the Moosthal, to that of the Passeyr, the first hamlet in which is Schonau {Inn, a wretched hovel). In a miserable chalet close to the glaciers of the Schnee- berg, E., the wife and son of Hofer took refuge after his arrest. The view down the valley fine. Rubenstein is the next village, and below it is a cluster of houses—■ Seehause, where is a humble Inn. The name marks the bed of a dried-up lake, the Kammer- see, formed in 1404 by a “ Berg- fall,” and the bursting of which at end of last oenty. laid waste the country as far as Meran. TJie paf/j, often in the torrent- bed, which is curiously strewed witli large blocks of white marble derived from the Schneeberg, and through most picturesque but wild scenery, reaches Moos (small Inn). (Time from hence the reverse way:— Moos to Seehaus, li hr. ; Eubeustein, 45 Bie. 215 .—T/ie OETZTHAL and PITZTIIAL. 198 197 min,; Schiinau, 30 min.; Col, 2i hrs.; to Zwieselstein, il hr.) Here the Pfeldertlial enters from W., and the valley bends E.; a very picturesque walk to Gm. St. Leonhard {Inn, tolerable). Hence it is about a 4 hrs. walk to 12 m. Meran. For the Passeyr Thai see Kte. 216. B. The Fender Thai, and hy the Hoch Jocli or the Nieder Joch to Meran. The Fender Thai, about 16 in. long, is the western branch of the Oetzthal. Enclosing the most sublime scenery, it will amply reward the alpine explorer. The grand glacier route by which it can be reached from Ob. Gurgl over the Kamol Joch has been described above. Starting from Zwieselstein. a tolerable footpath goes by Gais- lach, Freustabl, Heiligenkreutz 2 hrs., and Winterstall ^ hr., where the background of snowy mtns. becomes very fine. Hence 2 hrs. more bring the traveller to 11 m. Fend {Inn, the Cure’s house, now furnishing 18 beds, and good provisions). This vill. (6272 ft.) is the oldest place in the valley. In front is the Thal- leit Spitze (11,170 ft.), and the valley again divides, branching up on either side of it. Et. is the Rofen Thai, leading to the Hoch Joch ; 1 . is the Nieder Thai, lead¬ ing to the Nieder Joch ; both are passes over the main chain by which Meran can be reached. Arrived now at the head of the Oetzthal, it may be convenient briefly to describe the two other valleys penetrating from the N. to the Oetzthal group of mtns. These are the Pitzthal and the Kaunsthal. [The Pitzthal can be reached from Fend by a very fine pass over the Seiter Joehl, 9850 ft. A little below Fend strike up the mtn. to the N. by a sloping path. It leads in 2 hrs. to the Mufboden, where is a nolle view, including the entire Stubay group E., as well as the snowy masses at head of the Fender Thai, where the 2 passes, Nieder Joch and Hoch Joch, are finely displayed. Beyond this the path is over stony debris to the Tiefenthal Ferner, which is ascended to the Col, N. of the Schwarze Schneide, bo-tween the Fenderthal and the Pitzthal. Here is a wonderful view of glaciers descending to¬ wards N.E. and N.W.; also the Weiss Kogel and Wild Spitze, finely seen on the 1 . Descent is by slopes of debris to the ice-fall of the Mittelherg glacier, by side of which is a steep track, difficult to find, leading to the lower glacier, which is then easy walk¬ ing to Mittelherg at its foot, 9 hrs. from Fend (Plangeros is i hr. further). Eope necessary, but no special danger; first crossed in 1863. Guides, Benedikt Klotz of Fend, and in the Pitzthal a hunter known to the Cure of Plangeros. A return route may be made into the Oetztiial from Plangeros to Solden by the Pitz¬ thal Joch, 8 hrs., but it is inferior in scenery. Height and difficulty about the same. The Pitzthal is a straight nar- now valley, bounded by snowy II 2 199 Itte, 215 .—T/iC OETZTHAL and KAUNSTIIAL. 200 mtns. on E. and W., whicli se¬ parate it respectively from tlie Oetzthal E. and Kaunstlial W., with which it is in commu¬ nication by several passes. The Wild Spitze overlooks the upper end of the valley, which bends to the S.W,, and takes the name of the Tascliachthal, offering a rte. by which an ascent of the Wild Sp. can be made, or, by the Oelgrubcn Jock, an easy pass effected into the Kaunstlial. From Trenhwald, the next village down the valley, there are paths respectively to Huben in the Oetzthal E. and to Feuchten in tlie Kaunstlial W. At St. Leonhard (3 hrs. from Plangeros and yi from Imst) is a fine fall near the parsonage, be¬ yond which is a striking pass into the Kaunstlial. Zaunhorf lower down, is connected with the Oetz¬ thal by the pass of the Lairscher Joch leading to Umhausen. Below this the valley bends rather to the W.; the path crosses and recrosses the stream, passes through Bitzenreid and under Jerzens rt., noted for a waterfall, and one of the principal villages in the Vordergiund or lower Pitzthal ; the Pitzthal proiier ending here in tlie gorge through which the path runs. Wenns (good Inn) is on the W. side of the now broader valley, which sends off an arm towards the S.W. called the Pillerherg, by which is a pleasant path into the valley of the Inn, near Prutz. The Venethei’g (8 23 3 ft.) is here the culminating jicak to the W., separating the Pitz¬ thal from that part of the Inn Val¬ ley between Landeck and Imst. The Pitzbach now runs in a deep bed, and the path keeps on the W. side of the valley to Arzl, whence it diverges W. and de¬ scends to a bridge over the Inn, which leads to the post-rd. a little below Imst. The Pitzbach bends N.W., and joins the Inn rather more to the E.] [The Kaunsthal is the western¬ most of the 3 valleys ; it descends from the .snowy range in a straight course N. till near its exit, when it makes a bend W. and enters the Inn Valley near Prutz, 8 m. above Landeck; length about 20 m. The 3 highest mtns. are the Glockenthurm, 10,996 ft., on the W. ridge; the Blickspitze, 11,046 ft., nearly opposite on the E. ridge; and the Weissee Sp., 11,700, at the S. extremity. From P 7 -utz cross the stream (the Faggenbach), and ascend the hill of debris to Kaims, ^ hr. (a track leads hence in 5 hrs. over the Piller Joch to Wenns in the Pitzthal). The castle of Berneck is passed, and presently tlie entire valley opens to view with a toler¬ ably level surface, the former bed of a lake. Kaltenhrunn, i ^ hr. (4065 ft.), is the next vill. (Imi by the ch.). Image of the Virgin of 13th cent. (Path over the Kaltenhnmn Alp, with fine view, and by the Peischelkogl on the N. to St. Leonhard in the Pitzthal. The innkeeper a guide.) The path continues on rt. bank of stream, and skirts the former bed of the lake, numerous gullies, the tracks of avalanches breaking down on either side, and fre¬ quently stretching their debris across the valley. At Feuchten, 1 1 hr. (4174 ft.), the Gsollbach in 9 succes.sive falls descends 1375 ft., and a little beyond the vill. is the Brunigbach fall, 423 ft. (A laborious climb to a col be¬ tween Sonnen Kogl N. and the Schwabenkogl S. leads in 6 hrs. 201 Rte. 215.—ne OETZTHAL. 202 to Trenkwald iu the Pitzthal. Vill. supplies 2 good guides, who may be inquired for from the priest.) See, 2 lirs. (4988 ft.), is the last vill. indicating the end of the old lake. Johann Auer, the best guide of the valley, lives here. In 1862 the idace Avas devastated by mud from bursting of a lake above. The peak of the Glockenthurm (Jbell- tower) is now seen S.W. The valley now rises rapidly to the Gebatsch or Oelgruhen A Ip, 2 hrs., 6224 ft. This belongs to Prntz. Snow falls at any time, and the gigantic Gebatsch Glacier here de¬ scends into the valley. (Hence by the Gepmatsch Jock is a track over to Kofen in the Fcnderthal, not difficult.) (To the Pitzthal also there is an easy glacier pass. The track, starting from the Gebatsch Alp, leads direct to the glacier of the Hintere Oelgruben Sp., then over the Joch, of tliat name (9851 ft.), and doAvn through the Taschach- tlial to Mittelberg in the Pitz¬ thal.) A very interesting glacier pass leads W., by which the traveller can reach, down the Langtau- fererthal, the Meran post-road near the Reschen See (Ete. 213). J'his affords magnificent glacier views. Path takes a S.W. direc¬ tion from the foot of the Ge¬ batsch Glacier over the Alp, and then divides into 2 branches, (a) One branch bearing at first 1 ., and then resuming the old direc¬ tion, ascends to the Weiss See Joc/i( 965 6 ft),and thence descends the Malagthal to the alp of that name in the Langtaufererthal, 6 hrs. ( 5 ) The other branch ascends the Biffler glacier, de¬ scending from the S. side of the Glockenthurm, and at a height of 8835 ft. turns sharp to S. to descend into the Malagthal, leav¬ ing the Caplerschweinen See to the rt. The Rofen Thai and Iloch Joch. The priest of Fend has lately so far improved this pass as to render it practicable for mules. Tt^ is now more easy than the Nieder Joch. Onward from Fend, and taking the rt. hand branch of the valley, at a short distance is The Eofen or Rofner Hof. 2 This consists of two buildings of considerable solidity, occupying the highest meadow-land on the verge of the snow-line; above it is an utter Avilderness. Here Frederick of the Empty Pocket, under ban of the Empire, and escaped from Constance, found an asylum, for Avhich reason they possessed for long after the privilege of sanctuary for crimi¬ nals, and even noAV are tax free. [From Eofen a path leads W. in about 20 min. to two hay chalets, and beyond them turns abruptly rt., crosses a ravine Avith a small stream, and steeply Avind- ing ascends the mountain (take care to avoid a path from the 2 chalets along the side of the Oetzbach). In i-g hr. from chalets a point is reached on a shoulder of the Plattei Kogel, from Avhicli there is an extensive and magnificent view of glaciers and snoAAy peaks. From the summit itself (probably a difficult climb) the view must be most striking since the highest mtns. of the Oetzthal group are ranged round this portion of the Fender 203 Bte. 215.—m OETZTHAL. 204 Thai. Tho Wild Spitze, 12,389 ft., the loftiest of them all, stands to the N.W., impending over the village of Fend. The Procli Kogel and Plattei K. come next, and the Weiss Kugel and Weissee Spitze still further to the S.W. Others too numerous to name circle round the head of the liofcn Thai, ending in the noble Thalleit Spitze.] Ascent of the Wild Spitze, first made by Herr Spec lit, was accom¬ plished in 1865 from Rofen by Mr. Tuckett and party, who re¬ commend future comers to go right U]^ the liofenlcar Kees and strike the Saitel (between the Wild Spitze N. and Urkund S.) at its head, whence it is i hr. to tho summit, and the whole need not take more than 5 or 6 hrs. From the Sattel, between the Wild Sp. W. and Weiss or Fen¬ der Kugel E., they afterwards descended by the E. arm of tho great Mittelberger glacier (some¬ what difficult) to Mittelberg in the Pitzthah] [^Ascent uf the Weiss Kugel, 12,280 ft. (a mtn. not to be confounded with that just men¬ tioned), the second in height of the Oetzthal mtns., and “ com¬ manding the finest and most beautiful view in Tyrol,” was effected by the same party, who took the S. arm of the llinle- reis glacier; ascended W. to tho Langlauferer Joch, 10,335 ft.; climbed thence tho Langlauferer Spitz, 11,600 ft.; descended S. to tho head of the Hintereis glacier; reached thence tho Sattel” be¬ tween the Quell Spitz and the Weiss Kugel at S.E. foot of the latter; and gained its summit in I hr. more (a few steps to be cut near final ridge, otherwise 110 difficulty). They descended from the . Sattel into the head of tho Matscherthal, and followed it to Schluderns in tho Vintschgau (Rte. 213); total 15^ hrs. But the ascent of the Weiss Kugel need not include that of tho Langtauferer Sp., &c.] From Eofen the route to tho Iloch Joch keeps on the slope above tlie 1. bank of the stream (another path, perhaps preferable, ,( pursues the rt. bank), to the foot ( of tho / $ Obsr Vernagt Ferner.’ This 1 hr. is one of several glaciers walling in the valley, and which are but j- branches of one vast tract of j) perpetual ice, the largest in I Tyrol. In 1600 the Vernagt | Ferner, suddenly stretching across I the valley, formed a lake, which, 1 like that at the head of tho j Gurglthal, periodically burst, § but with far more desolating re- | suits. It disappeared in 1771, but may at any time collect ^ again. Crossing this glacier, and f traversing a slope of “ geroll,” tho track reaches tho f Hintereis Ferner, which itl hr. also crosses and makes direct for the foot of the Hoch Joch Glacier, A steep 1 hr. climb (f hr.) places tho traveller upon it, and then a not difficult ' ' walk along its W. side brings to tho Summit of the col (4965 ft.),2 hrs. extremely grand view. Descent is rather difficult down the Kurzenberg to _ Kurzras (milk, cofiee, and 1 hr. wine to bo had at the fii’st cot- K{^ 205 Bte. 215.—The OETZTHAL. 20G tage). A pleasant path thence through meadows and woods leads to l^hr. Ober Vernagt in the Schnal- serthal. Here the route over the Nieder Joch conies in. The next village is hr. Unsre Frau (inn, Beim Unter- wirth, small, but tolerable sleep¬ ing quarters). For descent of the valley to Naturns see below. From Fend to Unsre Frau by Hoch Joch it is reckoned 8 to 9 hrs.; good guides can be found at Rofen and Fend. Though I hr. longer than the ISieder Joch, it is to be preferred for its fine views. The Nieder Joch. This pass, like the Hoch Joch, is not difldcult, but requires a guide in case of fog or snow¬ storm ; mules, however, cannot yet descend from the Joch into the Schnalserthal. It otters in scenery every grand feature that belongs to the High Alps. From Fend the route takes the S. branch of the Fender Thai called the Niederthal. An ill- marked track leads on W. side of the stream parallel to it, but gradually rising till it passes the end of the 2 hrs. Murzol Glacier on the 1 ., and presently reaches the 2 hr. Highest pastures at foot of the furthest glacier. Here a heap of stones is the usual resting- jJace. Thence keep along the W. side till the slope becomes less steep, and then steer for the slight line of gi-avel which runs along the centre of the glacier. [To the 1 . the glacier will be seen rising with an almost un¬ broken surface towards a flattened pyramid, which is in fact the Similau 7 iSpitze (i 1,823ft.). Ascent presents no considerable ditfi- culty, and can be accomplished along with the passage of the Col: on summit, grand view from Mt. Blanc to the Gross GlocknerJ. There are many wooden crosses serving for guide-posts on the heaps of stones which cover the glacier, but one seen at some distance W. marks only the scene of an accident, and must not deceive the traveller, who must direct his course due S. towards the lowest apparent point (in July crevasses and much un¬ melted snow). At the Col the glacier suddenly 2 hrs. ceases, and precq^itous rocks fall many thousand feet into a wild alpine valley; the Descent is pointed out by a small wooden cross down a steep slightly indicated path, sometimes assisted by a groove cut in the rock. It bears rather to the rt. to reach a steep Slope of debris, which lands the traveller in the Tissenthal, a wild lateral glen of the Schnalserthal, which is en¬ tered at Ober Vernagt, 2 m. above the village of Unsre Frau (2 Tins: Beimshrs. Unterwirth, small, tolerable sleep¬ ing quarters), vill. named from a miraculous image of the Virgin. The scenery here is very striking. [Mastaunerthal opens S.W. with a cascade in its stream.] The l)ath takes to the mtn. slope above the stream on the 1. bank, and crosses it to 3 hr. Karthaus {Inn), standing on a high promontory. A Carthusian monastery here, founded in 1326, was suppressed in 1782. [Oj^posite Karthaus opens the Pfossenthal, winding upwards to the base of the snowy chain, much exjDosed to avalanches. One branch ascends to the glaciers of the Similaun Spitze; another ex¬ tends eastward till it reaches the S. side of the great Oetzthal Fer- ner, where a pass may be made to Oher Gurgl (see above). From this j3oint also a pass between the Hoch Wild Spitze N. and the llocli Weiss Spitze S. leads E. into the Pfelderthal, and so into the Passeyrthal.J _ Through a thickly wooded ra¬ vine the path descends to 1 hr. Eatteis (Inn), and finally as¬ cends the shoulder of hill W., with a backward view of the Similaun Spitze, to \ hr. Jufahl, where are tlie ruins of a castle, and a fine view of the Schnalserthal behind, of Naturns in the great valley of the Adige immediately below, and of the Orteler Spitze beyond. • fThe Schnalser Bach rushes furiously between bare precipitous rocks, and issues through a gloomy gorge into the Adige valley. The shortest way from Eatteis to Naturns is through this gorge by a track termed from its danger the “Forbidden Path.”] From Jufahl a steep jiath de¬ scends the slope under trellis-work into the valley of the Adige, here called the Vintschgau, joining the rd. at Staaben (fair Inn, and char to be had), about i m. above Naturns (Jan, Post). Here 1 hr. a one-horse car (2 fl.) may bo obtained to Meran, or, failing this, at Eabland, if hr. walk further. There are also daily stellwagen. Meran (see Ete. 213). 91 m. Rte. 215 A.— The STUBAY THAI. INNSBKUCK to the OETZTHAL. EKG. M. HKS, . 18 . 12 01 ’ • — 12 INNSBRUCK to Neustift in Stubay Thai Mutterberger Alp Leugenfeld in Oetzthal This district is -within easj^ distance of Innsbiuck, and has good roads up to the heads of its valleys. 'I’he mountain- paths are also generally good. Several public conveyances daily to Scheinberg at entrance of the Stubay Thai. The mountains of the Stuhay, though inferior to those of either the Oetzthal or the Ziller Thai in extent and variety, are well worth exploring. They are ap¬ proached by 3 principal valleys trom the N.E.—the Selrain Thai, opening in the Inn Thai near Innsbruck; the Stuhay Thai, en- 209 Bte. 215 A.—The STUB AY TlIAL. 210 terecl from the Brenner rd. at Scliouberg ; and the Gschnitz Thai, from Steinach, a little fur¬ ther, on the same road. Steep mountain ranges separate these valleys from each other, and they converge towards an extensive mass of snoAV and glacier, with several lofty summits, of whicli, taking them from S. to N., tlie principal are the SonJdar Spitze (11,410 ft.), the 3 peaks (11,512, ir,493, and 11,376 ft.) of the Wilder Pfaff, the Euederhof Sp. ^r,393 ft.), and, in a somewhat detached mass to the N., the SchranJcogel (1 1 ‘, 4 75 ft-)- Beyond these, to the W., lies tlie Oetz- tlial, with which several passes communicate. Variety of scenery is produced in the lower portions hy the intermingling of moun¬ tains of limestone and dolomite with the otherwise universal gneiss and mica clay-slate. The inhabitants of the lower Stubay Thai are principally en¬ gaged as workers in iron and steel. They are also large fat- teners of cattle, which they sell into S. Tyrol, and tliey afford Innsbruck its cJiief supply of fowls and eggs. From Innsbruck the Brenner I'd. is taken as far as 8 m. tlie Bridge, Stefansbriicke, a single arch of 143 ft. span, over the Stubay stream,—the Butzhach, —whence is a view up the valley closed by snow moun¬ tains. (The traveller may con¬ tinue on the Brenner rd. as far as the Schonberg post-house, be¬ fore turning off, but the pedes¬ trian will prefer the present route.) Tlie footpath follows the old road on rt. (S.) bank of the stream. mounting steeply up the W. slope of the Schonberg to vill, of Ober Schonberg, 3267 ft. From 2 the Pin there is a fine view up the valley, and N,, over tlie en¬ tire range of mts. behind Inns¬ bruck. Descending to the level of the valley, the next vill. is Mieders {Inn: Zur Weinl Traube, large and good). (Tlie Wald Bast, 5655 ft., S., is much frequented during summer by parties from Innsbruck. 2 hrs. ascent; noble view. Upon it are remains of a pilgrimage ch. sup¬ pressed by Joseph 11. Beyond it, S.W., is the Waldraster or Series Spitze, 8910 ft., ascended fi;om Gleins in 3 hrs. without difficulty.) The stream is crossed to Telfes, a vill. under the Nock, 1 or Saile Spitze, before reaching Fulpmes {Inn: Lutz Wirth). 2 A fine ch., with 4 pictures by Mosl, a peasant-girl. A great deal of smith’s work is done here. The Schlickbach, frequently very destructive, was especially so in 1807, when io,oocZ. worth of damage was done. [A path up the ScJdicJc Thai, N. (in which are most of the iron-mines for¬ merly worked), leads over the Ilalsl in 5 hrs., by the side of the Nock Spitze, to Axams, in the Sclrain Thai, and by this a pe¬ destrian may return to Inus- bruck.] The Stubay Valley now be¬ comes narrower. The villages of Medraz and Neders are seen on the opposite side, S. [Neders stands at the mouth of the Pinneser Thai, larely ex¬ plored, but through which the 211 Rte. 215 A.-T/ie STUB AY TEAL. 212 ascent of tlie Hager, or Habiclit Spitze, 10,746 ft., is made, re¬ ported difficult, but offering a grand panorama. (The best guide is Georg Pittracher, of Gschnitz, on the S. side.) The path goes by Issenanger to the chalets of the Pinneser Alp, 2 hrs., where a view of the Habicht Spitze is obtained, and night quarters can be had. i J lir. brings to the Pin- neser Jocli, 7736 ft. Then along the ridge rt., hr. to the Speik- grathuhe, close to the glacier. Thence to the summit, 2 hrs. The Habicht Spitze is of mica clay-slate, but the peaks running up to it on the 1 . side of the Pin¬ neser Thai are of limestone and dolomite, and in some features recal the scenery of the Fassa Thai.] 4m. Neustift, 3221 ft. {Inn: beim Salzberger, moderate), principal place and last vill. of the valley, which has its greatest breadth at this point. Houses are scattered. Ch. is much adorned with pic¬ tures and wood-carving. (The Holie Burgstall, 8562 ft., a dolo¬ mite peak, N., is a very fine point of view : 4 hrs. ascent. The best way is by Barenbad, and back direct to Neustift.) Here the valley forks. [The branch to the rt. is the Oberberg Thai. After passing Milders, among fertile fields at its entrance, this valley bends for a while N. under the Hohe Burg¬ stall, and Barenhad, a rustic bath¬ house on the 1. bank, is passed, after which the valley becomes wild and solitary, sweeping round towards S.W., and the great snowy mass, of which the Schran- kogel is the highest peak, and the Alpeiner Ferner, the largest glacier, becomes visible. The valley rises steeply; some small hamlets are passed, Wohlauf, Jager, and Haasen; then the chalets of Seduk. The slope on the 1. must now be taken, and some way further the Alpine basin of Oheriss, 3 hrs. from Neu¬ stift, is reached. To the N. of this amj)hitheatro is the Viller Spitze ; further AV. is the Kaiser Kopfe; and the Alpeiner Ferner fills the end of the valley, on the S. of which are the heavy masses of snow and glacier descending from the line of summits, behind which is the Schrankogel. The chalets of the Ober-Iss Alp afford good accommodation and decent fare. I hr. beyond Oberiss is the Alpeiner Alp, where 3 persons at least may find hay sufficient for night-quarters. A little further, the alp is shut in by a cliff of moderate height, surmounted by a winding path leading, in another I hr., to the highest basin of the valley,—the Alpeinertlial ,—across which a third ^ hr. brings the traveller to the foot of the Al¬ peiner glacier, 7307 ft. Near this is a fine waterfall. A track as¬ cends the glacier to the Schioar- zenberg Joch, 10,095 ft., at its S.AV. corner; erosses the ridge N. of the Schwarzerberg; and de¬ scends the glacier of that name on the other side into the Sulz Thai, which issues at Lengenfeld, into the Oetzthal (Kte. 215); both glaciers, however, are said to be very difficult, and the pass is rarely used. The Schrankogel, 11,475 ft., is a grand object in near view from the summit of the pass, and by no means diffi¬ cult of access. 213 me. 215 A.—The STUB A Y THAL. 214 From Oberiss there is a wind¬ ing path over the Lisenzer Joch, N., by which the traveller can rctui-n to. Innsbruck down the Selrain Thai. It is 3 to 4 hrs. to a stony Col, 9190 ft-, between the Viller S} 3 itzo rt., and the Horn Sjutze 1 . (fine view thence of the Ziller Thai group). (Guide necessary.) The descent is to the Lisenzer Alj), 5312 ft., upon which is the fine Alpenhaus belonging to the monks of Wilten, where tra¬ vellers are entertained. (From the head of the Lisenzer Thai, which here turns W., is a glacier pass into tlie Oetzthal at Len- genfeld.) Descending the Lisenz, or Lisnitzer Thai, the Magdalena- hruncll, so named from a statue of the saint on a column, is reached. Beyond this is vill. of Praxemar, high on the 1. slope, with Baths and a good Inn ; and at Gries (clean Inn), 2 hrs. from the Alpenhaus, the valley enters the Selrain Thai, running E. and W. (The upper portion to the W. is called the Gries Thai, hr. up it is St. Sigismund —Inn but moderate—where the Gleirsch Thai opens S. with a path lead¬ ing to a Joch of same name, and to Umhausen, on the Oetzthal. Ascending the Gries Thai, and crossing a low col, Kiilielay, in the Stuiben Thai, is reached, where an ancient hunting-lodge of the Wolkensteins, now occu¬ pied by shepherds, sui^plies en¬ tertainment. Scenery here is picturesque. The Stuiben Thai enters the Oetzthal near its junc¬ tion with the valley of the Inn.) Near Gries is the best point for a general view of the Sel¬ rain district—the summit of the Freihut, 8580ft.; guide maybe heard of from the priest. Selrain is hr. below Gries (Inn, to¬ lerable, but good trout and wine; it is near new ch. of St. Anna). A fine view from Ch. of St. Quirinus. (The Fatscherthal here enters from tlie S., and a path leads in 5 hrs. to the Viller Spitze at its head, over the snows of which is a way into the Stubaythal at Neustift.) Instead of following the Sel¬ rain valley to its junction with that of the Inn, near Zirl, the traveller for Innsbruck keeps to the rt., by Axams (where Anich, a singular local genius, astrono¬ mer and geographer, lived) and Gotzens. Or, he may go to Kem- atcn and drive thence,] From Neustift, in the Sluha]) Thai, crossing the stream, and following the main valley S.W. (the Unterherg), several vills. are passed to Volderau (Inn, kept by an 5 m. obliging landlady, Nothburga Hofer). The Urfall, a fine cas¬ cade of the Staubbach sort, is in the neighbourhood, and the fine peak of the Habicht Spitze is directly S. From this point the singular circular basin of the Sulzen An, with its cascades, begins to be seen at the head of the valley. After passing Falbeson the hamlet of Ranalt is reached. Here the 3 J m. Ldngenthal opens S., closed by the glaciers of the Wild Freiger, 11,253 ft., the Hoch Grindl, and the Feuerstein. [A pass leads E. from the head of this valley into the Gschnitz Bte. 215 K.—The STUB AY TITAL. 215 216 Thai, 5 lirs. long, and the 3;-d of tlie Stubay valleys. It opens at Steinach, on the Brenner road. Path goes by a small tarn to the Col, directly S. of the Innere "Wetter Spitze, then descends, chiefly on the rt. bank of the ' stream, to the Lapones Alp. Thence it is i hr. to Gschnitz, and 2 hrs. more to Steinach.'] N. of Ranalt is the Pfandler Alp, from a point above which (the Mannl) is a remarkable view of tlie Snlzenau basin opposite. The rd. continues by Schonge- lair and the Grata Alp. [Hence the Sul- zenau hasiu, one of the most jm- culiar features of the valley, may be visited. 5 glacier streams throw themselves down the walls of the “cirque” (1000 ft. high), unite in a pool, and at the narrow exit of the basin issue in a fall 120 ft. broad and 400 ft. high. Bloclcs of ice arc occasionally precipitated into the pool; one was so large as to occasion an inundation of the valley below.] The road ends at the 4111. Mutterberg Alp. A point well situated for excursions, but the people of the hut do not like travellers remaining. [Here the ascent of the Bild- sluckel pass, 10,270 ft., begins. It offers a route to Solden, in the Octzthal. Path turns otf S.W., and passing by the Untere and Obere Fernau, in the Wildgrube, rich in Alpine plants, ascends by rt. side of the Fernau glacier. The Col, reached in 5 hrs. from Mutterberg, lies between the SchaufelSpitze, E., and the Win- nacher, or Hoch Spitze, W. De¬ scent, steej), is by the 'Winnacher glacier, 2| hrs. more of ice, into the Winnacher Thai, where the path keeps on the rt. bank of the stream, down to Solden. The many concealed crevasses in the glacier render precaution neces¬ sary. The Rev. G. Watson, crossing this pass with a friend a few years ago, fell into a crevasse and perished. Tlieir guide, jMiiller, of Neustift, was much blamed for want of care ; no rope, &c. The Ascent of the Wilder Pfaff, made also from tlie Mutterberg’er Alji and tlie Snlzenau Gl., has no special difficulties. The moraine of the Fernau glacier is ascended from Obere Fernau to the so- called “ Goldschrofen,” and the track continues up the glacier to the ridge between the Schaufel Spitze, rt,, and the Aperer Pfatf, I . The route then turns E., coasting along the Aperer Pfaff, then nearly S. up the neve' to* a depression in a second ridge (by which the Winnacherthal may be reached direct from the Cirque of Snlzenau). Another steep climb reveals the Wilder Pfaff, II, 493 fb, in near view, i lir. further. The Zuclcer lliitl, another point a little beyond, exceeds the Wil¬ der by 17 ft. These summits, with the recently-named Sonldar Spitze, the Wild Freiger, and others stretching E., form the principal snowy mass of the Stubay group. Guide, Urbas Loisl, of Neustift, Time from the Mutterberger Alp to the mo¬ raine, 11 hr,, thence to first ridge 35 hrs., and to peak of Wilder Pfaff 2I hrs. The Eggesen Grat, 8631 ft., overlooking the Alp, can be easily ascended in 2J hrs,, and ofiers a close view of all the fea¬ tures of the Pfaffen grouin] 217 Rte. 2\Q.—MERAN to STERZING. 218 From the Mutterberger Alp a Lengenfeld J^Inn: fair}. Ete. 1 track continues up the valley, 215. N.W., to the Mutterberger Jock, 9892 ft. This pass is the N.W. boundary of the great Pfatfen group, separating it from that of the Schrankogl. It is nowhere dangerous, but very laborious. The path ascends S.W. steeidy to the Oberleger Alp, then turns W. and coasts along the steep and stony slopes of the HoUthalspitz until the height of 8000 ft. is reached. A basin covered with large blocks of gneiss is then crossed, and at its further end a small glacier. (The Mutterberger See, a small lake, lies off the path on the rt.) Further on the steep¬ ness is resumed up to the 4 hrs. Col, which is itself covered with a glacier. No panorama, but there is a near profile view of the Pfaffen group, and the Ha- bicht ridge beyond is well seen. The first part of the Descent is down a sort of chimney,-which opens out upon a mass of geroll composed of the largest blocks, often loosely piled upon one another, and requiring care and patience. The Sulzthal glacier is then crossed at a point where it is about I m. wide; this brings to steep grass slopes, by which the valley is gained, and a path to 7 hrs. Gries, where good shelter may be found at the cure’s (Trientl). The valley enters the Oetzthal at Rte. 216.—From MERAN to STERZING, by the PASSEYR THAI and PASS of the JAU- FEN. MERAN to ENG. M, HRS. St. Leonhard.4 Sterzing.17 6 A mule-path only, which, however, before the construction of the great post- road by Brixen, was the chief communi¬ cation between the valleys of the Adige and the Inn. The scenery of this route is not very striking, but it derives in¬ terest from its leading past the house oiHofer, and near the place of his betrayal. It offers also the directest means of reacliing Inns¬ bruck from Meran. Tlie road quits Meran by the Passeyrthor, and skirts the hill-slope on W. side of the Passeyr, tlie low grounds about which are much disfigured by marshes and the rubbish of inundations. Castle of Schbna is seen on height to rt. Above it is tlie very ancient round ch. of St. George. [An alternative and perhaps more interesting path uj) tlie Passeyrthal goes by Ober Mais, Greifenstein, and Schona.] On the 1 . opens the 220 210 BtG. ^IQ.—MERAN to STEBZING. Spranser Thai, where the inhab. of the lower valleys took refuge during the French invasion of 1809. After passing through Salthaus (small Inn), a collection of houses formerly holding special privileges from the castle of Tyrol, the first considerable vill. is 10 m. St. Martin, a short distance beyond which the path crosses the stream at 1 m. Am Sand {on the heacli). Here is the house of Jlofer, with the sign of the Crown, still a village Inn, as it was when it gave the hero the name of the “Sand Wirth,” or innkeeper on the sand. It is little altered since Hofer’s time, and has been protected from the violent inundations of the Passeyr by works constructed at government expense. His widow remained there after his deatli, and some few relics, amongst them the chain of honour sent him by the Emperor, are still shown. Hofer was a dealer in fiax and cattle, and his exten¬ sive connections in all parts of Tyrol, combined with his sim¬ plicity, honesty, and piety of character, contributed more to his ultimate high position than either military or political quali¬ ties, in neither of which could he compare with other leaders. When the overwhelming numbers of the French rendered further resistance hopeless, Hofer took refuge in a miserable clialet on the Hoch Spitze E., but through tlio high reward upon his head was at last betrayed to the French, who sent 1000 men to efiect his capture. He was taken in irons to Mantua, and there shot by order of Napoleon. [Hofefs hut is reached by turning up the mtn. on E. side of the valley, about hr. lower down than the Sand Wirthshaus. | hr. through pine wood brings to open meadows, and a cluster of peasant houses, among which is that of the traitor Rofil, who guided the French to Hofer’s retreat. It is still pointed out as “das Haus des Verr either sZ i m. further on is another group of houses, in the principal of which lived Pfandler, Hofer’s friend, who first gave him refuge under his roof, and after¬ wards supplied liim with food in his last hiding-place. | hr. of steep ascent through wood ends upon an Alpinemeado\i},ouyf[\\c\\ to 1 . are 2 log huts. Higher still to rt. are 2 others, and in the longer one, then as now a stable for cattle during their summer migration, Hofer lay concealed from Nov. 24, 1809, till Jan. 24, 1810, enduring the severity and solitude of winter. The viev) is magnificent from this S23ot over the Passeyr Thai, into which the traveller bound S. may descend at St. Martin’s, hr., or, crossing the ridge behind, to 1. of the Riffel Spitze, reach in I hr. Fahrkleis in the Sarn Thai; in 4 hrs. more iSarnthein, its prin¬ cipal village, and thence arrive at Botzen. For this very pio- tm-esque route see 216 a.] From Am Sand it is but ^ hr. walk to St. Leonhard {Inn: Strdbels, 1 tolerable, kept by a son of an old friend of Hofer’s). This, the principal place of the valley, stands amidst rich well- watered pastures adorned with walnut and chestnut trees, and with fine views of the mtns. Ch. belonged to the Teutonic order 221 Rte. 216 a.~BOTZEN to 8 TERZING hy the SARNTIIAL. 222 of Knights (see old pictures in Strobel’s inn). Close by is The Castle of Jaufenherg, with fine view down the valley. The valley now divides into two branches. [That to the W., a little above St. Leonhard, is the main trunk, and at 2 hrs. distance is Moos; there the valley divides again, that to rt. leading to the Timhler Joch, and so into the Oetzihal, readied at Solden, 7 hrs. from Moos (see Ete. 215). It is wortli the excursion to go only to Moos by rt. bank of stream, and back again by the 1. bank; make for Flatt, finely situated, 2 hrs.; de¬ scend to and cross river to Moos, and you will regain St. Leonhard in 2^ hrs. more; scenery most wild and pictm’esque.J Our route turns E. along the N. side of the Walten Thai, and after 3 hrs. of steep ascent over pasture tmms N.over the Jaufen Pass {Mons Jovis of the Romans), 6699 ft., the scene of a furious combat between the Pas- seyers, under Hofer, and the French in 1809. A horse maybe hired from St. Leonhard to summit of pass for 2 fl. 42 kr., and a small but poor Inn will be found on each side of the Col. [From the Jaufenspitze to rt. is a fine view along the Noric chain of alps E. of Brenner.J The Descent is down the Jaufen 1 Thai, leading in 3 hrs. into the [ Brenner rd., a little below I 17 m. Sterzing, 6 hrs. from St. Leon¬ hard {Inn, Post). See Rte. 217. Rte. 216 A. — BOTZEN to STERZING, or the PASSEYR THAI, by the SARN THAL. BOTZEN to - . ENG. M. HRS. Sdrntlicin ... 12 4 Weissenbach. . 4 Sterzing.. 5 WEISSENBACH to St. Leonhard’s (Passeyrthal) . . . A rough char-rd. as far as Sarnthein, then a mule-track and paths over the passes. The 8 arn Thai opening direct N. of Botzen, and from which the Talfer issues to join tlie Eisaok, is remarkably picturesque in its lower portion, which is a romantic glen, diversified with rock and wood, and studded with the ruins of castles. It is well worth a day’s excursion from Botzen if the traveller does not make it his line of route. The road leaves Botzen at the same point as that to the Brenner, and enclosed between the walls of gardens enters the Sarnthal by skirting the abrupt liill wiiich guards the entrance on tho E. The inhabited Castle of RunheU stein (Rte. 217), containing middle- age frescoes, is presently seen on a rock barring the way, and two or three castles, more or less in ruin, occupy heights on the western side -BOTZENto 8 TEEZ 1 NG hy the SARNTIIAL. j i of the valley. Fine chesnut-trees adorn recesses of the glen, which winds upward till at a narrow pass the traveller is stopped by a gate and a small toll. Beyond this is a singular Isolated Rock of porphyry, 450 ft.high,witli the pilgrimage chapel of St. Johann am Kofel on its summit; and through scenes of great beauty, and past a rude Bath-house at mineral springs, the traveller reaches 12 m. Sarnthein [Inns : Dragon, to¬ lerable ; Schweizer; and another), the official place of the valley. [_A 7 iother loay to Sarnthein is by a path which, crossing the Talfer close to Botzen, ascends the hills on W. side of the Sarn- thal, and through a mixture of cultivated lands, grass, and forests reaches in 3 hrs. the village of Afing (small country Inn: milk, bread, butter, and eggs extent of the fare); thence through forest varied with oc¬ casional green meadow the path ascends for another 3 hrs,, then descending crosses tlie river, passes under old castle of the counts of the valley, who sold it lately to Austria, and enters in another i hr. the village of Sarn¬ thein.] [From Norclheim, a little be¬ yond Sarnthein, is a track over the Kreuz Joch (6094 ft.) W. in 5 hrs. to Meran,] Beyond Sarnthein is a varied scene of wood and pasture, and passing the entrance into the Diirnholzthal rt., the pedestrian reaches the hamlet of modation on the route). Here the valley forhs. [a). The branch to rt. or N.E. is called the Penser Thai, leading by village of Pens to the Penser Joch. (6838 ft.), crossing which the traveller descends into the Oberherger Thai, and keeping on the heights to 1. of the torrent (N. side) passes through Nie- deried to Stilfs, and then along and above rt. bank of the Eisack till he descends and crosses the river near Sterzing (Bte. 217). 12 m. 01-5 hrs. (&). The valley to the l. or W. bends S.W. from Weissenbach. First passing through woods, the path crosses large tracts of aljD pasture, and then ascends to the Ridge of the mtn. rampart at 3 | hrs. head of the valley. Thence is a very fine view down the Sarri- thal on one side, and over the Passeyrthal on the other. The descent brings in 1,^ hr. to the banks of a turbulent stream, whence it is to St. Leonhard in Passe3n’-2^ hrs. thal (Bte. 216). 225 lUe, 2 \l.—IN}^ 8 BIlUCK to VERONA by the BRENNER. 22 G Rte. 217 . — innsbeuck to VEEONA, by the BEENNEE PASS, BOTZEN, and TEENT. INNSBEUCK to • ENG. M. Sterzing , . Brixen. . . 19 Botzen. . . 265 Trent (rail) . A fine post-road. Eilwagen twice a day between Innsbruck and Botzen, over the Brenner, in 15 hrs. A^y.from Botzen to Verona in 5 or 6 brs. The rail is being rapidly pushed up from Botzen, north¬ ward, over the Brenner, which it will eventually cross, when rly. communica¬ tion will be complete between N. and S. Tyrol. There are Stellwagen between all the chief towns, but they are very slow. With post-horses it takes 16 hrs. from Innsbruck to Botzen. Tlic Brenner is the lowest car- riage-rd. that anywhere crosses the main chain of the Alps, and the first (1772) that was made practicable for carriages at any tune of the year. The pass itself is not specially interesting, but there is fine scenery in the southern part of the route, and particularly between Brixen and Trent, where it traverses the ravine of the Eisack and the Valley of the Adige. Innsbruck is described Ete. 212. Soon after passing through the triumphal arch of Maria The¬ resa, at S. end of the Neustadt the ^ Suburb of Wilten is entered ; site of a Roman stat. {Valdidena). Abbey very ancient. The 2 figures of giants at entrance of ch. refer to a legendary conflict upon this site between one of the gigantic heroes of the Helden- buch, and another, accompanied Kp. Tyr. & Alps, by a dragon. The rd. now turns aside round a gently swelling hill covered with trees; this is the Berg Isel, famous as the scene of 3 great victories of the Tyrolese under Hofer and Spechbacher over the French and Bavarians ill 1809. The slain lie buried in ch.-yard of Wilten. A Gothic monument on the hill commemo¬ rates Hofer and his companions, and the Jagers use the place as a shooting-ground. The rd., excellently engi¬ neered, now ascends with gentle gradients, and displaying charm¬ ing views of Innsbruck and the valley, till the valley of the Sill is pined, when the Patscher Kofel (7478 ft.), otfering an excel¬ lent panorama from its sharp summit, is seen on the 1 . (see Rte. 212). The Sill now runs deej) on the 1., and presently The Stefansbriicke, a fine bridge over the Rutzbach, is crossed, and a charming glimpse of the Stiibay Thai is obtained, with snowy sum¬ mits at its head. [For this valley, the Stubay group of mountains, and the passes over them into the Oetz* thal, see Rte. 215 a.] A short distance further is Sohonberg {Inn, Post, good), 91 on tlie ridge separating the val¬ ley of Stubay from that of the Sill, the two running for a time nearly parallel; this ridge affords lovely views. It is traversed by the old Brenner rd. diverging from the Stefansbriicke, and re¬ joining the present rd. at the posthouse; a pedestrian had bet¬ ter take it. After several wind¬ ings the rd. reaches ENU. M. Koveredo(rall) i4i Verona 46 177 m. I 227 Bte. m.—lNNSBEVCK to VERONA Inj the BRENNER. 228 3 m. Matrey (Inns : Stern; Krone), 'whence there is an extensive prospect, especially from Scldoss TraiUson, now belonging to the Auerspergs. (A rd. crosses hero to rt. baiik of Sill, and pleasantly varies the route for a return to Innsbruck either from Matrey or Schonberg. It passes through Patsch and Vill.) Passing the entrance to the Navisthal h, our road, by a continued ascent, reaches 3 m. Steinach (Inns: Post, good and clean; Steinbock), This vill., 5 hrs. walk from Innsbruck, de¬ stroyed by conflagration in 1853, has been rebuilt in stone. Martin Knoller, one of the best Tyrolese painters, was born here 1725. 3 of his pictures are in the ch. [The Gsclinitztlial opens here W., penetrating to the snowy Stubay group of mtiis^ From Gsclinitz (3 hrs.) the Habicht Spitz, on the N., can be as¬ cended, and there is a path into the Stubaytbal, as also from the head of the valley (Kte. 215 a).] The valley now becomes con¬ tracted, and the rd. crosses the stream to 3 m. Stafflach. [A path leads hence E. by the Schmirner Thai to Oher Schmirn (Inn), and over the Duxer Joch to Hinter Dux, 7 hrs., in the Duxerthal, amidst very interest¬ ing scenery. Zell, in the Ziller- thal, is 18 m. further (Rte. 250).] [T/ie Falserthal enters the Schmirnerthal from the S.E,, and ends in a large glacier mass, over which is a difficult path into the PJitseherthal, by which the Zam- serthal can be reached over the Pfltscher Joch (Rte. 250).] The rd., after crossing the stream of the Schmirnerthal, now turns towards the rt., crosses frequently from one side to an¬ other of the hill. Passing through Gries, the Padauner Spitze rises to the E. [T/te Oherhergthai oj^ens W. From a little ch. near St. Leon¬ hard, the 1st vill., is a very fine view of the Zillerthal range. At Oherherg, at head of the val¬ ley, is a small Inn. Beyond this, in a branch of the valley S., are 2 small lakes, surrounded by grand rocks, 4 hrs. from Gries.] The road soon passes ruins of Lueg, near which a monument records an interview between Charles V. and his brother Ferdi¬ nand, and then sweeps round to 1 ., on the side of an Alpine basin occupied by a small lake, and climbing a bleak hill-side, reaches the Brenner Post-house (4775 ft. 6^ above sea); diligence here gene¬ rally halts for a meal. A cas¬ cade behind the house is the in¬ fant Eisack running S .; another, across the rd., supplies the Sill flowing N.; the waters respec¬ tively flowing into the Adriatic and the Black Sea. The Descent at first is along a nearly level tract. The Brenner- had (hot springs) is passed 1. [and a path over to Kematen, m the Pfitscherthah] Rd. then becomes steep down a narrow glen, through which the Eisack dashes^ the rd. crossing it from side to sidoi Gossensass is the first vill. ;5i above it the old robbers’ nest, Raspenstein, 229 me. 211 .—INN 8 BItTJCK to VEItONA hij the BEENNEIt. 280 [The FJlerschthal comes in here from the W. It descends from the S.E. end of the Stuhay snowy group. The Tribulaun, on the N., is its most conspicuous mtn. Bflersch, at the foot of this, is the chief vill. (3^ hrs. from Qosen- sass), a fine ch., built in the old mining times. Cascade of Holle I hr. further. Passes from the head of the valley into the Stu- baythal and Gschnitzthal IST., and into the Eidnaunthal S.] A little lower down the castle ruin Strassberg is seen rt. 4 m. Sterzing {Inns : Post; Krone— homely, but good, clean, and rea¬ sonable). In going to Innsbruck a vorspann is required from here to the summit of the Brenner. This very ancient town (3238 ft. above sea ; 2000 Inhab.) stands on site of Roman Stat. Vipitenum. It was important in middle ages from its neighbouring rich mines of silver, lead, and copper, and the great number of inns bear wit¬ ness to the large amount of traffic which once passed through it. Many of the houses were built by wealthy old mining families {obs. that called the Jochelsthurn); and the ch. was raised by their contributions at end of 15 th centy. It contains many of their monu¬ ments. From the Capuchin Convent is a fine view, as also from ch. of St. Sepulchre, on a hill above vill. of Floins. [A mule-path strikes off to the S.W. up the Jaufen Thai, and over the Jaufen into the Passeyr Thai, 6 hrs. (see Rte. 216). Ilofer’s headquarters in 1809 were at Kalschach, a hamlet in the route. Also by a track over the Penser Jocli a i^edestrian may reach Bot~ zen by the picturesque Sarnthal (Rte. 2 i6a).] [2 valleys open E. and W. of Sterzing. The ist and most im¬ portant is fhe Pfitscherthal E., reaching to the snow masses of the Zillerthal, and offering a route into that valley. At Kematen, 3J hrs., is a good Inn. St. Jacob is 2 hrs. further. Stein, I hr., is last vill., thence over the Pfitscherjocli, the Inn at Ginz- ling, in the Zemthal, may be reached in i day (Rte. 230). The valley to the W. is the Eidnaunthal, penetrating to the S. side of the Stubay snow masses. At Ausser Bidnaun, 2J hrs., the ch. occupies a hill with a fine view of the valley and of the great glaciers at its head. Liner Bid¬ naun is I hr. further, also finely situated. Beyond this the valley forks : 1 . branch, the Lozza- cherthal leads to the mines of the Schneeberg, and by patli under the Schimrzenspitz N., Schonau, on the Timbler Joch route, can be reached (Rte. 215). The rt. branch Ni is enclosed among the glaciers of the Stubay Mtns., the Thalferner and Hangenden- ferner, at the foot of which are 2 small lakes.] Soon after leaving Sterzing, the Castle of Sprechenstein is seen 1 ., and that of Reifenstein on the rt., and the rd. passes over the Sterzinger-Moos ; a marshy flat, where in 1797 Joubert was re¬ pulsed by the peasantry, as a rude verse on a roadside chapel com¬ memorates. Tlie castle of Wel- fenstein, with Roman remains, crowns a rock, and formerly com¬ manded the pass. The flat (once a lake) tenninates at I 2 231 llte. 211 .—INNSBRUCK to VERONA hythe BRENNER. 232 bill. Mauls (a good cheap little Inn, Zum Nagerl, where carriage travellers from Innsbruck may- sleep the first night). Here a deep gorge begins, extending for many miles, the scene of many ambuscades and fierce conflicts both in 1797 1809. 4 m. Mittewald (Inn: Post, large and good, but dear). This place Avas the centre of a great fight, of which the entire defile Avas the scene, in 1809. Lefevre, Duke of Dantzic, had crossed the Brenner, but Avas confronted by Haspin- ger the Capuchin at Oberau, below MitteAvald, while Hofei- descended from the Jaufen, and Spechhacher from the Punleiter- steg on liis rear. The result aauis a complete rout. Cannon, arms, and ammunition Avere abandoned, and the Marshal, in flight, carried the first ncAvs of his defeat to Innsbruck. 3 m. Oberau. The advanced guard of Lefevre was here, after des¬ perate resistance, compelled to surrender. The rd. crosses to Unterau, rt. hank (a good Inn'), and soon passes the extensive fortress of 2 m. Franzensveste, mounting 137 cannon, and commanding the passage E. to Carinthia, S. to Brixen and Verona, N. to Inns¬ bruck, [Below the fort the great rd. of the Pustertlial, by Avliich the traveller can either reach Carin¬ thia (Rte. 223), or pass through the magnificent scenei-y of the Amjiezzo to Venice (Rte. 228), strikes otF E, over a bridge. A pedestrian will get a fine view S. by ascending to vill. of Spinges to the 1. above the fort; thence is a pleasant descent to Muhlbach, at entrance of the Pustertlial, Avhere is a good Inn, and the road to Brixen can easily be re¬ gained. Blit he loill do better to continue up the Pusterthal to BruneeJeen, and then to thread the dolomite valleys of Gader and Groden to Botzen, This Avill show him A'cry remarkable scenery, and be much lireferable to the high road (see Rte. 227.)] Our rd., issuing from the gorge at Franzensveste, continues direct S. over the plain to Brixen and on rt. baidc of the Eisack. A cluster of houses, with a ch. on the 1 . bank, is Neustift (Inn), the richest monastery in Tyrol, and the burial-place of the Minne¬ singer Oswald Von Wolkenstein, the ruins of Avhose castle are still to be seen near Castelruth (Rte. 227). The Baths of Valirn are passed rt. at entrance of the Sclialders- tlial. [2 hrs. up this valley are the batiis of Sclialders.^ Chesnuts and vines here first make their appearance. The Rienz, flowing from the Puster¬ thal, joins the Eisack at Brixen (Ital. Bressanone) 4 {Inns : Elephant, good ; Sonne); 2027 ft. above sea. A dull town, ot 3200 Inhab., but anciently of some importance. It is the seat of an archbishopric dating from 4th centy., and the principality Avas only united to Tyrol in 1803. The Dorn is richly decorated with Tyi-olese marbles, and its cloisters contain curious frescoes. The Church of St. John close by is said to have been the old cathedral, and Avas the scene of 233 llte. ‘lll.—INNSimiJCK to VFJiONA hy tUeBUENNElL 234 tho a fter Council which elected a Pope in opposition to Gregory There are several convents, a nunnery for education of English girls, and a 'palace for the ahp. The Freie Biiliel, E. of Brixen, rising above vill. of St. Andrae, and crowned by a chapel, ofiers a fine point of view. Eilwagen daily to Villacli in Carintlila, by Brunecken and Lienz, and rail thence by Klagenfurt to Marburg on the Vienna and Trieste Bail. The-same dil. is in connection with one through the Am- pezzo to Cadore, Belluno, and the rly. for Venice. Rly. will soon be completed from Bri.\en to Botzen, whence it descends tlie Adige to Verona. [The Liisenthal opens E. of Brixen, and bends round towards the S. By this valley a pedes¬ trian might find a pleasant patli over the ridge into the Enneberg, or lower portion of the Gader- thal.J The scenery about Brixen is rich and picturesque; below it the valley contracts again, and becomes a striking defile. On the heights above on tho rt. are the vills. of Velturns and Latzfons, the women of which, disguised in men’s cloaks, aided in repulsing the French (1797), who tried to seize the defile by way of Latzfons. 8m. Klausen (Clausus) (Inns: Gans; Rossi) is a small town of a single street, squeezed in be¬ tween the river and the mountain. Tt was the seat of an abp. in 4t'h centy. Obs. a Roman tower. Outside tho place is the Capuchin Convent, founded by the then Queen of Spain in 1701 at re¬ quest of her confessor, a native of Klausen. Joachim Haspinger, a hero of 1809, belonged to the Capuchin monastery here. E, of the town is a singular projecting isolated rock, 700 ft. high, a fortified post from earliest times, the site also of a temple of Isis, and now that of the nunnery of Seben. At time of the French invasion one of the nuns, to escape ill usage, threw herself from the summit. View thence very fine: [Tlie Latzfonserthal enters from the W. at Klausen under the Seben rock. The Schloss Gern- stein lies in it, and a path leads to the Pil. Chapel of Kreutz- hirchlem, near which on the ridge is a grand view of the dolomites to the E. The path descends thence into the Sarnthal at Sarn- thein. Rte. 216 a.J A Bridge to 1 . over the EisackI m. carries a char-rd. into the Groden Thai E., [le»;ich‘ng up to the Sella Spitze, and other dolo¬ mites, and well worth exi^loring. Rte. 227.] Koliman (Inn, Kreuz). Op-5 m. posite, on 1 . bank of Eisack, is the picturesque castle of Trost- burg (Trost, confidence—security)^ belonging to Count Wolkenstein. It commands the entrance to the Grbdenthal, is still perfect, and inhabited—could hold 500 men in the lower apartments. [A very steep paved rd. leads up to Trostburg, and a path goes on to Castelrutlj, 2 hrs. (see Rte. 227), whence Botzen can be reached by a path over the ele¬ vated plateau (the ancient route, to the Brenner), and at foot of the dolomite mountain Ilohe Schlern. This detour will well reward the pedestrian. An equally interesting, and perhaps superior path for views, climbs the hills on the rt, or W. 235 Bie. 217 .—INNSBRUCK to VERONA hy the BRENNER. 236 bank of the Eisack. This leads by St. Verena in 4 lirs. to the singular Earth Pyramids of Lengmoos, and by Ober Botzen and valley of Kitten, descends to Botzen in 3 Ill’s.: see below.] The road now sinks into a grand and gloomy defile, closed in by cliffs of porpliyry on both sides, which continues to within 3 m. of Botzen. The rd. is termed the Kunters Weg, from a citizen of Botzen, by whom, in 1314, it was first constructed; before that the Brenner traffic went by Meran and the mule- track over the Jaufen; earlier still by the plateau of Castelruth. 5 m. Atzwang (Inn, Post). [Here a path crosses the Eisack, and is the direct way, in 3 hrs., to the small bath-house of Ratzes at the foot of the Schlern: see Kte. 227. Also to the W. a steep path climbs in lir. to i\\e Earth Pyramids. Deutschen. A monument near this records a great rock-fall in 1845. 3 m. Steg, The precipices of the Schlern are seen E. [A bridge and path to Veils and Castelruth, the nearest way for a pedestrian bound from Botzen to the Oroden- thal, or the striking scenery of the Seisser Alp.'^ 2 m. Blumau. Bridge over the Eisaclc, and a view opens E. . towards the dolomite precijiices of the.Eosengarten. The mtns. now begin to separate, the valley bends westward, and the verdure becomes luxuriant. The roman¬ tic Schloss Karneid to 1 . guards the entrance to the Karneidthal and the Porphyry gorges: see below. The river is again crossed, and then the rd. enters upon the rich plam of Botzen, the red spire of its ch. rising in the midst, and the beautiful valley of the Adige, decked with castles, opening beyond. Fine porphyry cliffs bound the plain on the S. Vineyards and gardens, full of profuse vegetation, surround the town, and villages crown all the heights. Botzen (Ital. Bolzano) (Inns: 4 : Kaiserkrone, good and comfort¬ able, but dear; good view of the Rosengarten from some of the upper windows;—Mondschein, in a narrow street, fair). N.B. Try the wine of Terlan, the trout of the Eisack, and the grapes of Meran. Botzen is situated at the junct. of the Talfer, coming direct from the N., with the Eisack, which 2 111. further on falls into the Adige. Long dykes protect the city from the devastations of the Talfer. Pop. 10,000. Commanding the traffic with Germany by the Brenner, with Switzerland by the upper Adige, and with Italy by the lower Adige, Botzen is a very prosperous place. Italian is the prevailing language. 4 large fairs are annually held; and the Saturday market-days display much variety and jiic- turesqueness of costume. Heavy arcades, useful in the exti’eme heats of summer, line many of the streets, and streams of pure water rush through them. Double roofs protect many of the houses from the heat. The parish ch., in a pleasant ojien space E. side of the town, is Gotliic of T4th centy., with one elegant open spire of 1525 (the other not built). It possesses a 237 Bte. 217 .—INNSBRUCK to VERONA by the BRENNER. 238 curiously carved pulpit. The W. portal is a copy from the Lom- bardic. Behind the high altar is a monument to the Archduke Bainer. A new cemetery, B. of the ch., is surrounded by arcades and has a monument by Schnorr. The ch. of St. John Bapt. has frescoes of the 15 th centy. worth seeing. In the gardens about Botzen, some of which are elaborately kept, the tig, lemon, olive, pome¬ granate, sugar-cane, and mul¬ berry are found; that of H. Moser, near ch., is a specimen. In summer the richer inhab. resort to theh villas, or the various baths on the mtns. The best immediate points of view are, from the Galvarienberg, across the Eisack and overhang¬ ing the rly., which commands the Adige valley ; or, from the bridge over the Talfer on the Meran rd., from which the dolo¬ mite peaks of the Rosengarten to the E., the chief feature in the Botzen scenery, are well seen, particularly at sunset. The Fassa Thai lies behind them, and in this direction with the Schlern (not visible from Botzen) they form the outposts of the Dolomite region. The longer Excursions are, to (a) SigmundsJcron, an old castle, on a conspicuous hill in the midst of the Adige valley, about 3 m. S.W. of Botzen. It was built in 1473 on ruins of a Roman fort by the Archduke Sig¬ mund. Being now a magazine, an order fi'om the military autho¬ rity of Botzen to visit it is necessary; but a portion of the vieiv may be seen without. It lies on the way to ^ (b) Hoeh Eppan, a formidable place in the nth centy. Its owners looked down upon 36 subject castles, and engaged in deadly feuds with the Counts of Tyrol and Bps. of Trent. They became extinct in 1300. View is very fine. St. Paid, 5 m., is the best point to drive to ,* thence is a steep path for about 2 m. (c) Sarnthein {Inn, Schwei- zer), 12 m.; 3 hrs. drive on a rough road up the valley of the Talfer or Sarnthal. This is a most picturesque glen; numerous castle towers are perched about it. Schloss Runhelstein, 3 m., has some very curious, almost defaced, frescoes, illustrating the romances of the 14th and 15 th cent., and said to have been repaired by order of Maximilian. 3 m. further is Johann am Kofel, pilgrimage ch., crowning a pre¬ cipice 450 ft. high; and 6 m. be¬ yond is Sarnthein : see Rte. 216 a. (d) Earth Pyramids of Leng- moos, 10 m., near Ober Bitten. Leave Botzen by the Brenner rd., and take a path to 1., just beyond the suburbs. 2 hrs. of a very beautiful walk brings you to Enter Ritten (good refresh¬ ment) ; hence ascend to Ober Ritten, a favourite summer re¬ treat of the Botzeners ; thence it is a short distance to the pyra¬ mids, beyond the vill. of Leng- moos. They consist of an immense number of tall earth pillars, 30 to 60 ft. high, having at a dis¬ tance among trees the appearance of a ruined temple, or a number of steeples crowded together. They are composed of coherent gravel, angular fragments of por¬ phyry, and eartb, and are due to the action of water upon what is supposed to have been an ancient moraine. 239 Bte. 217 .—INNSBIiUCK to VEMONA hij the liliENNER. 2 i 0 (e) The ascent of the Bittner Horn may be made in 3 hrs. from Lengmoos (near which, at Selrain, is a good Inn). The panorama is very fine, and in¬ cludes a remarkable array of dolomites to the E. A steep path leads down from it to Atzwang on the Brenner rd. (/) The Porphyry gorges in the Karneid Thai ofter very striking scenery. A rd. has been con¬ structed througli them to Wal- schenofen, 13 m. (a small Inn^, which will eventually be carried over the Caressa Pass into the Fassa Thai and the midst of the dolomites. Schloss Karneid, con¬ spicuous from Botzen, stands at the entrance of the deep ravine from which the torrent issues, and nothing can exceed the romantic grandeur of the defile by which the rd., suspended over, or by the side of the stream, at last gains the uplands. At different points the wild dolomite peaks of the Latemar Spitzen appear to rt., and are well seen from Walschenofen ; from which place Vigo, in Fas.sa Thai (com¬ fortable Inn, Itizzi’s), is reached in 4 hrs. {see Kte. 221). (f/) The ascent of the Schlern m ay be made from Botzen. Drive to Steg on Brenner rd., and then walk by Vdls up the Schlernthal, and by chapel of St. Cyprian; it may bo done in 5 or 6 hrs. From summit very fine display of dolomites to E., and of the great snow groi;ps, Adamello, Orteler, Oetzthal, and Noric, W. and N. (Ji) The Mendula, however, rising like a wall W. of the Adige, and ascended from Kal- tern {In 7 i, Kossl) in 2^ hrs., will perhaps offer the noblest view in the neighbourhood of Botzen, There is a small Inn just beyond the summit (Rte. 220 a). Eilwageii daily to Innsbruck in 15 hrs.; also to Meran and Brcgenz. Trains j times a day to Trent and Verona, reach ing the latter in 5^^ or 6^ hrs. Stellwagen also upon all the rds. Travellers going N. from Bot¬ zen will find the Meran and Finstermiinz rd. (Rte. 213) much more interesting than the Brenner, and, though longer for Germany, shorter for Switzerland. The Inns, however, are not ,so good. The rly. to Trent crosses the Eisack by a bridge, and continues by side of the river a short distance; the latter then bears W. to join the Adige (Germ. Etsch). The fiat plain hence to Trent is productive only of maize, mulberries, and miasma; every¬ body that can, lives on the hills ; but the mountains bounding it are very fine. [For a pedestrian going S. an interesting route would be by Sigmundskron into the valley of Kaltern, which runs parallel with that of the Adige. It is a rd. for vehicles, though hilly. Kal¬ tern, 10 m. {Inn, Rdssl', is the centre of a considerable wine trade (Seewein, best); and was famous in 1833 for an “Exta- tica,” visited by thousands of pilgrims. (From Kaltern the steej) bridle¬ path over the Mendola reaches Eondo in 4 hrs., whence it is about 10 m. to Cles in Val di Non, by which again the route to Trent may be very advan¬ tageously varied. See Rte. 220.) The Kaltern See, a small lake famous for eels, is passed a little below Kaltern, and th.e Adige 241 Bte. 211 .—INNSBlWCKtoVEli()NAhy theBBENNER. 242 and rail may be regained either at Auer, or much lower down through Tramin (lofty ch. tower) and Kurtatsch at 8 alurn.'\ 7 m. At Branzoll the rail approaches the Adige, which here becomes navigable for rafts. 2 ^ m. Auer Stat. The rail here crosses to rt. bank of the Adige. [A new road from Auer zigzags up the hill-side and joins that from Neumarkt to Cavalese in the Fassa Thai at Kalditsch.] The porphyry mtns. which line the valley from Botzen give place to limestone at 4 fm. Neumarkt Stat. (Inns, not good: Agniolo; Corona,tolerable): Ital. Egna, Eom. Erma, rebuilt under its present name after an inundation. Unhealthy. iioo Inhab. [A bridge and rd. to Kaltern W. and a hill rd. tra- vei'sed by a stellwagen into the Fassa or Fleims Thai on the E. ; 18 m. to Cavalese. Etc. 2 2r.J 4| m. Salurn Stat. (Inns : Cavallo Bianco; Adler, clean and civil people). A picturesque castle ruin surmounts a conical rock, once important as commanding the valley. The limestone mtns. now advance upon the Adige, and form a defile, die Sclianze, important in war time. Gen. Joubert, in 1797, to avoid it, led his troo])s round by the Eleimser- thal to Neumarkt. i Tlie mtns. on the W. now pre¬ sently break away and disclose the Bochetta Pass, a fine bit of scenery [leading into tlio Val di Non, (Ete. "220)]. From this stat. is a daily stellwagen through Val di Non to Male in Val di Sole. Below this the rail crosses to 1 . bank, but then sweeps westward to avoid the vast amount of debris and swamp caused by the Avisio, the stream of the Fassa Thai, which is seen issuing from tlie hills near Lavis(Jn9?, Corona; none good), 4 f m. small town, quite Italian in cha¬ racter. [The rd. up the Fassa Thai, Ete. 221.] A Bridge 3000 ft. long carries the rail over the Avisio, and the line then makes a straight com-se for Trent (Germ. Trient; Ital. 7 m. Trento). Inns : All’ Europa, in Contrada Lunga, the principal street, is fidr, hut make your bar¬ gain ; Chiave d’Oro, well spoken of; Corona, frequented by Aus¬ trian officers.) This famous city (14,000 Inhab.) is beautifully situated on 1 . bank of Adige. Its medimval walls, towers, nume¬ rous campaniles, and surrounding- castle ruins give it a most im¬ posing aspect. It was the Tri- dentum of the Eomans, and capital of Eluetia; afterwards from 1027 to 1803 a prince-bishopric, the domains of which included not only the valley of the Adige, but various outlying districts. The principal event in its history is the meeting of the Council of Trent from 1543 to 1563. The Duomo or Cathedred, ded. to St. Vigilius, 380 A.D., is very curious, dates from 1212, built * of marble, Eomanesque; sin¬ gular high altar, isolated. Ohs. an Adam and Eve of white marble; frescoes of 14th centy. in N. tran- 4 .^ in. St. Michele, 243 Rte. 2\1.~INN8BBUCK to VEBONA hythe BBENNEB. 244 sept; a crucifix in a side cliapel; and tomh of Sanseverino, a Venetian general, killed in battle with the Trentines. MarUe foun¬ tain in the cathedral square. Oh. of Santa Maria Maggiore is built on site of the chamber where the Council of Trent as¬ sembled ; its Lombard tower still remains. Ohs. a curious painting with portraits of the members. The Organ is very good, and the Organ Gallery is a fine work by Vincentini. Oh. of St. Apollinare across bridge is early Norman. Castle of Buon ConsigUo on a height was the mediseval episco¬ pal stronghold. One round tower, the walls 9 ft. thick, is said to be Homan. There is an inner court with 4 stories of arcaded galleries; good frescoes in some of the rooms. The whole is now a fortified bar¬ rack. Another Episcopal Castle is outside the town, and in ruins. The town walls are nearly per¬ fect. A tall square tower near the rly. stat. is a prison. Good views over Trent may be obtained from the isolated rock called Verruca or “ dos Trento,” beyond bridge on rt. bank of Adige W., now a fortified military post, therefore requiring an order, but the rd. past it leading to Riva'j may suffice instead; and from the road to Pergine, on E. side of the town, rising with a long ascent. Chief products of the district are wine and silk, but the fig and the pomegranate are seen mixed witli the mulberry-trees. Festival of St. Vigilius, June 26, is the great day for observing the population. A charming Excursio7i may be made to Logo Caldonazzo, Take rd. E. to Pergine, 7 m., and at about 3 m, from Trent diverge to a bridge, Ponte Alto, a few yards off' the rd., under which the torrent plunges into a cleft at a vast depth, A fine defile succeeds, and the approach to Pergine is beautiful. From Pergine take a country rd. to W. side of lake, which is deliciously surrounded by chesnut woods, and if time allows continue to village of Cal- ceranica, and then across country by Vigolo and Sorda to Matarello on the high rd. 5 m. below Trent. The whole distance is about 25 m.. The defile on the road to Biva, W. of the town, is also worth a walk. [The Pergine rd. leads into Val Sugana, or Valley of the Brenta, and is a dhect route, and delightful one, by Bassano and Treviso to Venice, far more inter¬ esting than that of the rail (see Ete. 222); also from Trent to Verona the route may bo advan¬ tageously varied by taking the beautiful rd. (better than that by Eoveredo) to Biva, on Logo di Garda (excellent Inn), and steaming down the lake to Pes- chiera, but inquire sailing days of the steamer (see Ete. 2i9).3 Eilwagen twice a week to Bassano by Val Sugana, and Stellwagen to Cles in Val di Non, and to Biva on Lago di Garda. The rly. keeps on 1. bank of Adige (the valley hence to tho Venetian frontier termed Val Lagerina, Lager Thai), to Galliano Stat., at Junct. of Val m, Folgaria. Here the valley con¬ tracts to a narrow pass, where the Venetians under Sanseverino, who was slain, were defeated in 1487, and sharp confiicts took place with the French, 1796 and 1809. 245 Mte. 211.—INNSBRUCK to VERONA hytlie BRENNER. 246 Castle of Beseno on a rock above town, fine view. The rail now twice crosses the river, and to the rt. on mtn. side are seen the ruins of Castelbarco, at one time belonging to the most powerful family of the Val Lagerina, after¬ wards a strong frontier fortress of the Venetians. With a bend round to the S. the rail reaches 4f m. Roveredo [Inns: Cavalletto; Corona and Cavallo Bianco. N.B. Between this and Verona no good inn). 7614 Inhab. I. bank of Adige centre of a flourishing silk trade. There are 2 qfilande (mills) for unwinding from tlie cocoon, producing 12,000 lbs, of silk an¬ nually, and 36 filalorie (spinning- mills), yielding per annum 173,000 lbs. of silk thread, and giving em¬ ployment altogether to more than 3000 persons. The manufacture dates from 1200 a.d., introduced by settlers from Venice and Nuremberg. The Castle in the Piazza del Podesta is the most remarkable building, once the residence of the Venetian governor; it is now the Town Council Office. Tower re¬ sembles a lighthouse. Cli. of San Marco dates from 15th centy. Ch. of San Tomaso (now a warehouse), from 1300. Napoleon's “ Battle of Roveredo ” was fought in the defile of Calliano. [Just below the town a road tiuns off, crossing the valley and the hills to the W., over to Riva on Lago di Garda, a noble piece of scenery (see Ete. 218). Stell- wagen daily in 3 hrs. Also a rd. ascends the Val d’Arsa S.E. from Roveredo, crosses into Val di Signori by the ro¬ mantic pass of Fugazze, and descends by Schio to Vicenza. This route oflers the best access from the N. to Baths of Recoaro (see Rtes. 232 and 232 a).] Leaving Roveredo, the Castle of Lizzana is presently seen 1. Hero Dante lived for some time during his exile. Mori [ (or Ravazzone) Stat. 2 [Rd. over to Riva rt.] Rail crosses and recrosses Adige. Nearly opposite this 1. is San Marco, between which place Dj m and vill. of Serravalle below are the Slavini di San Marco, the re¬ sults of a berg-fall, which is said to have overwhelmed a town in 883. Dante alludes to it in his descrip¬ tion of the Vestibule of Hell.— Inferno, xii., 4-9. At Serravalle the rd., rail, and river run close together through a defile once commanded by a castle, now in ruins, to Ala {Inn, Post). 3700 Inhab., once famed for manufacture of velvet and silk, [An interesting path strikes off from Ala S.E., up Val Eonchi, and crosses by the Colle della Lora or Revelta into the romantic basin of Recoaro. This is one of the most picturesque approaches for a j)edestrian to that charming spot. See Rtes. 232, 232 a.] Avio Stat. Vill. on rt. bank of the river. Castle of the Castel- barcos. Borghetto, 1. bank, is the last place in Tyrol. The long moun¬ tain ridge on rt., separating the valley of the Adige from the Lago di Garda culminates in Monte Baldo (7012 ft.), W. of Borghetto, rich in botanical trea¬ sures. Frontier crossed. 247 Rte. 2 lS.—ltOVEEEBO to RIVA and L. BI GAIWA. 248 7 m. Peri Stat. is the first in Venetia. Presently Brentino is seen across the river to the rt. [In one of the ravines descending towards it from IMonte Baldo is the sin¬ gular sanctuary of Madonna della Corona, built in a cave in a ju'e- cipitous face of rock, and ap¬ proached either by steps from below or by ropes from above.] At 4| m. Ceraino Stat. the defile of the Chiusa di Verona [Berner Klanse) commences ; the river here winds sharply between walls of lime¬ stone, a spot always of great military importance. Rivoli is on the plateau to S.W., where Naiioleon won his famous victory. 7 m. Domegliara Stat., end of the ■ defile. Here are several forts on 1. bank, formerly occupied by an old Venetian castle. The river and rail are now separated by some distance, and beyond the former, S.W., some lo m., is Custoza, where the Austrians defeated the Piedmontese in 1848, and the Italians in 1866. 4 ^ m. Pescatina Stat. Pail bears E. 2|- m. Parona Stat. Kail now crosses the river and bears S. to join the rail from Milan at Sta. Lucia. Ports in all directions guard the approaches to 95 m. Verona. Porta Nuova Stat.; principal stat. is Poiia Vescova, a little further. [Inns: due Torri, best; Torre di Londra. See Iland- hooh for N. Italy, Rte. 218. — koveredo to RIVA and PESCHIERA, by the LAGO DI GARDA. ROVEllEDO to KXG. ir. Riva. Peschiera, by steamer, about . 40 A good carriage-rd. and a daily Stell- wagen, 3 brs., between Moti stat. and Riva; thence to Peschiera by steamboat, in 4 or 5 hrs. daily. Also a boat runs daily (?) between Limone and Desenzano, which,by means of arow-boat from Riva, may serve if the other fails. Cars at Riva scarce. Strongly to be recommended in preference to the rly. route from Koveredo southwards for those who have a day to spare. Kiva is strikingly picturesque, and the sail on the lake most delightful and full of interest. At Peschiera the traveller can either turn E. to Verona and ^"enice, or W. to Milan. Travellers from the N. will find a more interesting way of reach¬ ing Kiva from Trent, Rte. 219. The rail will help the pedes¬ trian the short distance from Roveredo to Mori Stat. The rd. from 3 Roveredo there crosses the Adige by a Bridge, passes through Mori (a large village), and through a richly cultivated country reaches the pretty, pellucid m. 249 llte. 2l^.—R0VEllEB0 to BIVA and L. 1)1 GARDA. 250 3 m. L&go di loppio, dotted with islands and bounded by rocks. Then come the dreary heights of Nago, a vill. with a ruined castle, bm-ut by the French, in 1703, under Vendome. The de¬ scent towards Riva is steep, and after passing a small fort it affords a fine View over the Lake of Garda,witliMonteBaldo (7012ft.), on 1 . ; river Sarca descending to lake on rt.; and the extraordinary rd. from Storo faintly marked in the precipices on the western shore. [From here the N. peak of IMte. Baldo may be reached, with guide, in 4^ hrs., offering a fine view of the lake and the Orteler and Adamello groups.] 4 m. Torbole is a poor vill., sur¬ rounded by barren stony uplands, but picturesquely situated on the edge of the lake. The rd. crosses the River Sarca, which pours into the lake, and keeps near the waterside, passing again through a fort, to 3 m. Riva (Inns: II Sole, very good, and moderate if bargained for— charming view over the lake; Giardiiio, cheaper, but inferior). There is a post-station sup¬ plied with horses, but the post¬ master demands extortionate rates. The town, 4960 Inhab., looks well from a distance, but the streets are dingy and dilapidated; situation admirable; towering mountains and grand precipices to the W., the lake spreading southward, with Mte. Baldo rising nobly upon its east¬ ern shore. The small plain N. of Riva is rich with olives, myr- • ties, vines, and pomegranates; and many castle ruins are perched on the surrounding crags. Castle of La Rocca, built by the Scaligers, above the town, is now a prison. A fortified barrack, for the Austrian steam marine, is on the margin of the lake. The best Views are obtained from the rd. to Brescia, which is carried along the face of the limestone precipices on W. of the lake to the height of 400 ft., and then turns inland; and it is worth while to extend the walk to Lago di Ledro, 5 m., visiting the Fcdl of the Ponale, 2 m. from Riva, on the way. This cascade can also be seen from a boat on the lake. Also from a new-made rd., leading up to Pranzo and the small Lake of Tenno, in the hills to the N., the town, plain, and lake are well seen. From vill. of Tenno, a mile to rt. of rd., is a charming View. [The rd. to Bresica (Rte. 231 a) is highly picturesque, and passes through the scenes of Garibaldi’s struggle with the Austrians in 1866. It is also a charming drive from Riva to Trent by the valley of the Sarca: see Rte. 219. Car¬ riage and pair to Trent, 8 fl.] Lago di Garda (Lacus Benacus), about 35 m. long, by 12 broad at its S. end; greatest depth 332 fathoms, 2 2 7 ft. above sea. A small portion of the upper end is in Tyrol ; for the rest, the eastern shore is Venetian, and the W. Lombardic. Long and narrow, and hemmed in by lofty mtns. towards the N., it there presents features of deso¬ late grandeur; expanding towards the S., and surrounded by low, richly cultivated shores,it exhibits ‘251 Rfe.^lS.—IiOVEREDO to lUVA and L. 1)1 GARDA. 252 the utmost softness and beauty, though from its funnel-like shape it is subject (as Virgil noticed) to tremendous tempests. The olive is everywhere seen, and lemons and citrons are abundant on the W. shore. Excellent salmon-trout and trout in the lake, with Agone, a sort of fresh¬ water herring. On leaving Eiva by water, ohs. W. the rd. to Brescia, grooved out of the face of the larecipice. Presently, beyond the turn of the rd., the Fall of the Poiiale is seen fall¬ ing behind the arcli of a bridge. The E. shore is for many miles occupied by the bare but lofty range of Mte. Baldo. 7 m. Limone, W. Here the French embarked Hofer on his way to Mantua, where he was shot. 5 m. Tremosine, W., hamlet and ch. on edge of a tall precipice, acces¬ sible by a path lilce a staircase. Citron groves, with provision for roofing over in winter, begin to appear W. Opposite is Malcesina, E., with a castel¬ lated Venetian fort, said to have been first erected by Oliarlemagne, rising on a rock in the water. OiUi Campione, W., surmounted by Ch. of Maria di Mte. Castello. The mtns. now recede from the W. shore, which becomes a string of villages, backed by rich cultiva¬ tion. The principal places are Gargnano, where a rd. com¬ mences, and runs southward by shore of the lake; a short dis¬ tance below, Bogliaco, with a beau¬ tiful villa ; Toscolano, with many paper-mills; Mad&rnoy the largest vill. on that side; and then, at head of an inlet, Salo {Inns: Gambero, good, but extortionate; Giardino, fair and moderate), town of 4500 Inhab., 3 churches, the most beautiful spot on the lake, and to which a rd. comes down from Lago Idro: see Ete. 231. On the E. shore, the next point of interest after Malcesina is Torri, E., marked by a well-iQm. preserved Scaligerian Castle (1383) with delightful gardens. Quarries here of red marble, which have supplied Verona. St. Vigilio, E., at point of aS m. promontory, a beautiful situation. A palazzo here built by San Michele, and gardens adorned with ancient sculpture. Garda, E., at head of a bay, 2 m. a walled vill., giving name to the lake. In a hermitage above. Count Algarotti wrote some of his works. [8 m. E. is battle-field of Rl~ voli, Ete. 217.] Bardolino, E., vill. with bat-3 m. tlemented walls and towers. From this portion of the lake the ridge of hill and distant tower of Solferino can be seen S. Lacise, surrounded by me- 3 m. disBval walls, and with a very picturesque castle. 2 m. S. is the villa of Count Menascalci, the Orientalist. [Projecting into the centre of the lake from the S. is now seen the promontory of Sermiond {Peninsularum Sirmio of Ca¬ tullus)* It possesses a crene¬ lated castle of the Scaligers • ex- 253 Rte. m.—TRENT to RIVA. 254 tensive Komau mins, bath, &c., of age of the Antonines; and a ch. of 12th cent. Among them the ruins of a house Avhere Catul¬ lus wrote his poems. Lovely view up the lake. Desenzano {Inns .* Meyer’s Ho¬ tel ; Vittoria—both on lake; Posta Vecchia) is in the bay beyond Sermione. It is the chief town on the W. shore of the lake, and a stat. on the Milan and Venice Ely. See Ete. 26, Handbook ofN, Italy.'] Cm. Peschiera (no good Inn; re¬ freshments at the rly. stat.), till 1866 a strong Austrian fortress, and princii)al station for Aus¬ trian lake gunboats. Omnibuses to station, ^ m. Trains to IVIilan, Mantua, and Venice. A carriage may be hired either here or at Desenzano to Solferino. Rte. 219 .—TRENT to RIVA on the LAGO DI GARDA. TRENT to _ ENG. ir, mva.23 Stellvvagen daily in 4^ hrs. No decent Inn on the road ; a pedesti’ian must carry refreshment. Travellers from the N. had far better take this route to Lago di Garda than that by Eoveredo. The scenery is full of variety and beauty, and carriages can easily, and for a moderate charge, be hired at Trent. From Trent the Adige is im- inediately crossed, and the road winds up by the detached rock mid military jiost. Verruca, keep¬ ing it on the rt., to a narrow Defile, which penetrates the limestone cliffs to the W. At its further exit is a Fort, and then the rd. bears 3 m. round to 1,, over the hill, a rich valley opening to view, rt, with the small lake of Terlago at its northern end, at the foot of Mte. Gazza. Vezzano {Inn, Corona). [Hero 5 m. a jiath over a ridge leads N. to vill. and lake of Molveno (Ete. 220 A). The view of the lake, with the Brenta dolomites oppo¬ site, is magnificent. Track down to Molveno requires a guide. A path beyond leads N. into Vai di Non.] Turning sharp to S., the rd. descends by Padernione to the pretty Lago Doblino, in midst of5 ni. which rises a picturesque Castle, with forked battlements, which stopped the advance of Italian revolutionists in 1849, Belongs to Count Wolkenstein. Ask for Vino Santo. Post omnibuses meet here from three points. The rd. presently reaches the hamlet of Le Sarohe (a poor Inn), Here 3 m, the river Sarca issues from a deep gorge to the rt., and the 255 llte. 2W.—TRENT to EDOLO 25G traveller follows its course the rest of the way. [A difficult mule-track was till 1846 the only means of penetrat- ing by this gorge to the romantic district of the Giudicaria; now a good rd. conquers the defile, and in 6 ni., through tvonderfid scenery, leads to Baths of Comano; then leaving Stenico on a height to rt., readies, 10 m. further, Tione, delightfully picturesque, whence Riva can he reached by Storo, a fine circuit; see Rte. 220 a.J The valley is defaced with deffiris till after Rte. 220.— TRENT to EDOLO, by the VaUeys of NON and SOLE, and Pass of MONTE TONALE. TRENT to Cles, Val di Non. Male, Val di Sole. Fusine, head of Val di Sole. . Ponte di Legno, Val Camonica Edolo. ENG. M. . 27 . 10 . IO|^ . 14 • 14 3 in. Pietra Murata is passed, when it somewhat recovers its fertility, but is bounded W. by limestone cliffs, and E. by arid hills. The cliffs end in a lofty crag, holding the romantic - looking castle of 9 m. Arco, town of 2000 Inhab., occupied in culture of the silk¬ worm. Noted for its peaches. Castle built 1175. The rd. now deserts the river, and crosses a rich plam at foot of the most picturesque mountains, boundiim it on the W., to 3 m. Riva {Inn, Sole, good); see llte. 218. The Sarca enters the lake more to the E., and issuing from it at the S. extremity, close to Peschiera, becomes the Mincio, Virgil’s stream, and the 3rd NaiDoleon’s difficulty. 754 Stelhvagen daily, from Trent to Cles, in 7 hrs., and in summer to IMale and Baths of Rabbi, from San Michele stat., 10 m. above Trent. No public conveyance over Mte. Tonale; rd. indifferent on the Italian side, but practicable for light carriages. A pedestrian had better start from San Micliele fetat. N, of Lavis, He will reach Mezzo Lombardo in 4 hr.; Cles, 4 hrs.; Fusine, foot of Tonale Pass, 7 hrs. (Baths of Pejo, 24 hrs.).' Travellers from Botzen and N. can either leave the rail, at Salurn and cross the Adige by a bridge to Deutschmetz, or, if pedestrians, continue to San Michele stat., where an omnibus waits. This route, interesting in itself, opens up a great deal of very ro¬ mantic scenery on either side, and in conjunction with the Pass of Apica, beyond Edolo (Rte. 231), oflers an excellent variation of route for travellers retm-ning from the Venetian territories to Swit¬ zerland, and the best means by which a pedestrian in South Tyi-ol can reach the Stelvio (Rte. 214.) The valleys of Non and Sole (Germ. Nonsbergand Sulzberg— Naunia of Pliny) are properly one valley, as they are traversed by one stream, the Noce or Nos- bach, descending from the S. 257 258 me. 220 .—TRENT to EBOLO. VAL BI NON. side of the Orteler group above Pejo, and joining the Adige at San Michele, above Trent. A remarkable bend in its course, however, gives occasion to the 2 designations : the upper portion running W. to E. is the Val di Sole ; the lower, almost due S., is the Val di Non, The Val di Non is very singu¬ lar, being more a succession of uplands and ravines than a valley (the stream flowing deep in a cleft). These uplands are crowd¬ ed with villages and old castles. Several of the latter, now in ruins, are the original seats of well- known noble families. The genial climate has favoured population, and made the valley a favourite retreat of the Trentines during the summer. Silk of excellent quality is the chief production of the val¬ ley, and vineyards producing wine for home consumption are exten¬ sive. The Naunes (Genauni'?) are mentioned as conquered Alpine tribes in the triumph of Augustus; they are now Italian rather than German, and used to bear an ill name, but the Austrian police have rendered travellers perfectly secure. It is an uninteresting and dusty road from Trent to 7 in. Lavis (no good Inn). Italian- looking town across the Avisio, and at the entrance of the Eleimser Thai, here called Val Oembra. (Its upper portion is the noted Val Fassa among the dolomites : see Rte. 2 21.) A little further is a 2 m. Ferry over the Adige, by which a carriage can cross, and a rather pleasant country road bears towards Kp. Tijr. & Alps. Mezzo-Lomhardo (Germ. Wal-Im. schmetz) {Inn, Corona, fair, and pleasant place to dine; Aquila Nera; Eosa), Italian vill,, 2216 Inhab. Old ch. of St. Peter on mountain above; and castle of Will schmetz commands entrance of i)ass beyond. [Here the road from Salurn comes in, hy which travellers from Botzen can arrive (though they had better take rail to San Mi¬ chele and omnibus from thence, 2 m.). From Salurn the rd. crosses by a bridge over the Adige, and reaches Mezzo Te- deseo (Deutschmetz), 6 m,, 1100 Inhab,, at foot * of the limestone clifts, with a castle, the highest building in the vill. In a cave in the faee of the precipice above are the ruins of the former strong¬ hold of its owners, the Castle of Kronmetz. A bridge across the Noce leads to Mezzo Lombardo. These two places, as their names imply, formerly marked the re¬ spective limits of the German and Italian populations. It is not necessary, however, to cross the Noce, as there is a rd. on 1 . bank as well.] The gorge of the Noce, up which the rd. lies, leads to The Pass of Rochetta, a grand scene. The rd. crosses the stream twice. A tower on a pro¬ jecting rock is 11 Visione, of Roman origin, and a noted signal- post; at the upper exit of the gorge is A Fort, and the broad Val di 2 m. Non opens out, the rd. climbing the uplands on 1.; several vills, lie further to 1. and at foot of the mountains. There is a deserted castle at Spor, and northward in succession are Belfort, Bellasio, K 259 Bte. 220 .—TB.ENT to EDOLO. VAL DI NON. 260 and La Corona, the latter in a cave and inaccessible. [A very rough rd., not pass¬ able for carriages, leads from this end of Val di Non through the Val Sporreggio, passing vills. of Spor and Cavidago, then over a ridge, and by the dried-up lake of Ando! o, descending through rich woods to Lago Molveno, 5 hrs. fi’om Mezzo Lombardo, a lovely bit of scen¬ ery. Thence the valley of the Sarca can be gained by crossing the Mte. Gazza ridge S.E. to Vezzano; or continuing along the cart-rd, S. over the Molveno Pass to Stenico or the Batlts of Comano, in 4 hrs. (Kte. 220A.) Also from the Austrian fort a rd. keeps on the E. side of the Val di Non to Fondo, at its fur¬ thest northern extremity.] 4 m. Denno is reached after a con¬ siderable climb, and the views begin to expand. The dolomite peaks of the Brenta Alta, above Molveno, seen S.W. (Across the valley to the E. are seen the exten¬ sive plantations and castle of Thun, founded 1194, and cradle of the family of that name. Splendid view from its terrace.) Flavon follows; and after a wide sweep round a ravine and long ascent, the vill. of 5 m. Tueno, on a commanding emi¬ nence. The Noce rushes unseen in a deep chasm, and the eye ranges over the undulating E. side of the valley, divided by ra¬ vines, and studded with villages and castles. 3 m. Cles (Ecclesia) (Inns; Aquila; Corona d’Oro, good, but beware of extortion) dates from Roman times ; chief place of valley, but of small extent; pleasantly situ¬ ated. Much silk and hemp about, and several mills. Ch. on site of a ternple of Saturn. 5 min. walk to hill (Poggio) called Dos di Pez gives a fine view. Excursion: 5 m. E. of Cles, on opposite side of valley, reached from the road to Fondo, is the Sanctuary of Bomedio —singular chapel and hermitage, on top of a precipitous promontory, ap¬ proached by steps and through 5 chapels ; dates from 1135 ; a great place of pilgrimage. fr/ie route to Meran, 12 hrs., is by Fondo, 9 m. of rd., lately reported to be bad, to N.E. of Cles. Lin poor, but mules can be hired there; thence is a continuous ascent, passing the hamlet of Unsre Frau, to the Gampen Pass, 2 hrs. (Inn). SjDlendid view (Rte. 220.) It is 7 hrs. more to Meran. The pedestrian will find a pleasant way by Ober Lana and Marling to Meran.] \_The Boute to Butzen over the Mendola —a mule-track—strikes off also from Fondo by the vill. of Rufredo (curious sanc¬ tuary of San Romedio may be visited on the way from Cles; or Rufredo can be reached, turn¬ ing off* at Romeno, if the tra¬ veller does not depend upon mules at Fondo). The ascent is not great to Pass of the Mend- elscharte (view magnificent), nor the descent difficult to Kaltern, 4 hrs. from Fondo, where a vehicle can be hired, 10 m. to Botzen, charming drive (see Rtes. 220A and 217.] Beyond Cles the rd. swoci^s round W. by Chapel St. Chiatar, 262 261 Rte. 220 .—TRENT to EDOLO. VAL DI SOLE. fine view, and descends abruptly to the 3 m. Bridge over the Noce, where it flows in a deep ravine at en¬ trance of Vcd di Sole. This valley, a long trough, is of more Alpine character than that of the Non. The scenery is not remarkable but for the glimpses up the side valleys. The rd. leads pleasantly through meadows and orchards, and pass¬ ing entrance of Val di Kabbi, to 16 m. Male (Inn: Corona, Bortolou’s, tolerable, but given to over¬ charges ; there is another, lo min. beyond the townW., of good pro¬ mise). Chief town of Val di Sole, and of busy appearance. [The Baths of Rabbi (4 Inns; A 1 Fonte and II Palazzo the best; charges, 3 fl. per day, paper), 4000 ft. above sea, and much fre¬ quented, are reached by a char- rd. up the Val di Rabbi, 8 m. from Male. The rd. turns off about I m. E. of Male, passes through Magras, and keeps the 1 . bank of the Rabbles torrent to St. Bernardo, crossing after to rt. bank. A shorter and pleasanter way for a ^pedestrian is a path mounting steeply from Male and pursuing the rt. bank of the stream for 2 hrs., when it crosses to the other bank, and follows the other route through St. Ber¬ nardo. The situation of the Baths is fine for excursions, being in near neighbourhood of the S.E. side of the Orteler group, of which the Venezia Spitze, 11,097 ft., is here the prominent member {see Rte. 214A). There is a path to Pejo W., by which Sta. Catarina may be reached (Rte. 2 24a). The fine scenery of the Martel Thai may be visited by a laborious pass over the Gramser glacier, due N. from Rabbi, and some way E. of the Venezia Spitze, 6 hrs, to a good moun¬ taineer, and 2 hrs. further to a small Inn at Gond {see Rte. 2x3.) Meran, about 40 m. distant, may be reached through the very pleasing scenery of the UUen Thai, in which are the Baths of Mitterbad, much frequented by the Tyrolese, and with fair ac¬ commodation. St. Gertrud, high¬ est vill.in Ulten Thai, is reached in 5 hrs. from Rabbi; Mitterbad in 4^ more. At St. Pankraz, hr., the valley becomes very pic¬ turesque. Meran is 4 hrs. fur¬ ther tln-ough Ober Lana and Mar¬ ling (Rte. 213 .)] Preson. Opposite this, across the 2 valley, is Dimaro, at the entrance of the Val di Selva. [Up this^ picturesque valley is an easy bridle-track over a low pass into the noble scenery of Val Rendena and the Giudicaria {see Rte. 220 a).] The scenery of the valley is now simply pleasing. Several villages are passed thi’ough; Pelizzano is the most consider- 7 able, and hero there is a fine opening N., the Val di Pejo, which displays the snowy range of Mte. Tresero. The river Noce, rising at its base, flows through this valley, which is therefore the true head of the Val di Sole. It is perhaps better to halt at Fusine {Inn, honest though 1 1 homely; far better sleep here than at Ponte di Legno beyond). A ruined castle near affords a fine view. K 2 2GB Txte. ‘120.~-TEF.NT to EDOLO. 2G4 ' [Up the Val di Pejo are the Baths of that name; rough, and closed in August, but in a fine situation, and past which is the route to the more noted Baths of Sta. Catarina, near Bormio (see Kte. 214 A.] Ascending from Fusine up a valley called Val Vermiglio, which falls in line with that of Val Sole, the noble range of the Presanella begins to display its snowy sum¬ mits on the 1 . This is part of the Adamello group, the great southern counterpart to that of the Orteler, the Tonale pass lying between the two. Vermiglio or Pizzano (Inn) is the last vilh, and passports are looked at. A Fort defends a higher reach of road, which after passing a Cantoniera climbs the last slope by easy gradients to the 9 m. Summit (6483 ft.): near it to rt. a small Inn. It is a bleak highland-looking waste, the scene of sanguinary combats with the Venetians in 1509; with the French in 1799 and 1809; and Italian Revolutionists in 1848. (Here at present the fine Austrian rd. ends abruptly, and a tract of broken ground must be passed to reach the old Italian rd. on the rt.) ■ The chief interest of the view lies in the snow masses to the h, now extending from Monte Pis- cana, close to the pass S.E., to¬ wards the Adamello itself. The Descent in a short time becomes extremely steep, and down a succession of zigzags into Val Camonica, at the head of which lies Ponte di Legno (Inn very 5 m. poor, capable of coffee, an ome¬ lette, and beds if necessary). [A path direct N. from here up the course of theOglio (truehead of Val Camonica) leads over the Gavia pass to Sta. Catarina and Bormio {see Rte. 214 a).] [It is possible to climb the mtns. S. and over glaciers rt. of ]\Ite. Piscana, into the beautiful FaZ di Genova, and to Pinzolo in Val Rendena, in one long day.J The road down the Val Camo¬ nica passes several vilages, and through tame scenery but for oc¬ casional peeps of the lofty range to the 1., one of which occurs a little below Pontagna up Val d’Avio, at head of which, and foot of Mte. Avio, is a small lake in the grand neighbourhood of the Adamello. Vezza is at the entrance of FaZ Grande N., ascending towards ]Mte. Gavia and closed by a glacier. [On opposite side of the Oglio S. is FaZ Paghera, known as Val Aviolo. At its head are two great outworks of the Adamello group, the Cima di Pornina and C. di Baitone.] At Incudine the ' beauty for 10 m. which the valley is famed begins to appear, and the descent is charming to Edolo {Inns : Leone, decent; 4 m. Due Mori, near the bridge, dear ; Post\ a small town most pictur¬ esquely situated, and with many delightful walks about it {see Rte. 231). [The traveller bound for tlie Spliigen or Como ascends by a good rd. to Pass of Aprica, 2 G 5 Ele. 220 A.— 3 IERAN to BRESCIA by VAL RENDENA. 260 12 m. {Inn on tlie summit), and gains a magnificent view over the Valtel line in descending to Tresenda, 5 m. (poor Inn). Son- drio (excellent Inns) is 13 m. fur¬ ther {see Etes. 231 and 214). The road to Brescia, down Val Camonica and by the beautiful Lago Iseo, is described Kte. 231.] Rte. 220 A. —MERAN or ROTZEN to BRESCIA, by VAL RENDENA and the GIUDICARIA. jyiERAN to Fondo, Val di Non BO rZEN to Fondo .... Malfe, Val di Sole . Pinzolo, Val Ptendena Tione .... Vestone .... Brescia .... Portions of this route can only be taken by a pedestrian, or on horseback, but they are easy. For the most part it is traversed by a carriage rd., and by public vehicles. This route runs through one of the most picturesque, though hitherto least visited, of the dis¬ tricts of South Tyrol, and brings the traveller acquainted with the most southern of the great snow masses of the Alps, named from its principal summit the Ada- mello group, lying directly S. of the Orteler group, and sending down two considerable streams, KXG. Sr. HKS. . 22 9 . 18 7 . 19 6 . 19 7 . 10 . 32 the Sarca and the Chiese, the former flowing into the Lago di Garda, and the latter joining in the Italian plain the Oglio, flow¬ ing from 'Lago dTseo. This range is granite ; but a remark¬ able mountain mass, the Brenta Alta, directly parallel with it on the E., is dolomite, and displays some of the grandest character¬ istics of that singular formation. The Val di Rendena, the chief object of our route, lies between the two, and is full of interest. For a pedestrian on his way westward tlirough Tyrol to Lom¬ bardy, there could scarcely be a better course. If he come from Switzerland, he sliould combine with this the pass of the Stelvio, striking off above Meran (Rte. 214), and at Bormio following the path over the Gavia pass, or that of the Corno dei tre Sig¬ nori, to Male, Rte. 214 a. If he have crossed the Oetzthal mts. from Innsbruck, he will have arrived at Aleran, and can follow the ist route here laid down. If he is from Eastern Tyrol, Botzen will be his point of departure. In any case, AlaU, in Val di Sole, must be his first object, and this l^lace can also be easily reached by carnage either from the valley of the Adige by the Val di Non, Rte. 220, or from the Bormio route by way of Edolo, and Mte. Tonale, Etes. 231 and 220. Meran.—Drive round by Burg- stall, on the Botzen road, to cross the Adige by a bridge there, or walk by Marling, an agreeable path, to Unter Lana, near entrance of 7 m. the Vlten Thai; thence climb the hill to Vollan, and up the short valley beyond, to 267 Me. 220 a.-^MEEAN to BRESCIA hj VAL BENDENA. 208 5 m. Platzers. It is not far from here to tho 2 m. Summit of the Kampen or Gampen Pass (comfortable moun¬ tain Inn reported there): splendid view both ways. [Another way to the summit from Unter Lana leads by Tisens and Gfrill, keeping the wooded hill, the “ Gall,” on the rt .3 A short way below is 1 m. Unsere Liebe Frau im Walde. •—Italian, Senale. {Inn.) The hamlet of 4 m. Trett affords a very extensive view over the Valdi Non, and the descent is rapid to 3 m. Fondo {Inn, poor), a large village, where a good road com¬ mences. Ohs. two old castles of the Thun family, large pro¬ prietors of the Val di Non. [From Botzen to Fondo is a shorter journey. There is a car¬ riage-road for a longer distance, and the route is finer. Drive by way of Sigmundskron and valley of Eppan to Kaltern, lo m. Thence it is a steep mule-path over the fine limestone range of the Mendola (noble views, in¬ cluding the dolomites of Val Fassa) (J/iw just beyond summit), and by vill. of Eufredo to Fondo, 4 hrs. i 8 m.): highest point of the Mendola is to 1 . (S.), Mte. Koen, 6919 ft., and can be ascended from Rufredo. From Mendola Inn a shorter way to Cles is by Romeno, 1 |- hr., thence to Cles 2 hrs. See Rtes. 220 and 217.] [The pedestrian instead of pass¬ ing through Fondo may descend from Rufredo by Amblar, to the curious sanctuary of Romedio, a great place of pilgrimage, and well worth visiting. Thence he can fall into the road to Cles. See Rte. 220.] From Fondo it is a good road to Cles {Inns : Aquila; Corona 9 m. d’Oro. See Rte. 220). Male, Val di Sole. {Inn: 10 m. Corona, Bortolon, dear.) There is a fair-looking Inn between Male and Preson, where a car-road 2^ m. diverges and crosses the Noce to Diniaro (a clean Inn), at en- a m. trance of Val di Selva, and near the junction of the Melledro with the Noce. A rough bridle-track thence, mounting rapidly, takes first E. side of the stream, then crosses to the thickly wooded W. side, and (leaving the branch of the valley leading to the back of Mte. Spiiiale on 1 .) climbs to the Summit of the Ginevrie Pass, whence is a short descent to Maria di Campiglio, a pil- 8 m. grimage ch. (largo Inn, rough but clean, one good bedroom, and several inferior ones). [Mfe. Spi- nale, E., ending in a long wall to S., and offering a noble view, can be ascended from this in 2 hrs. On the W. is Mte. Ritorto, easily reached, and a fine view.] Descent is easy, and by a good horse-rd. to Val Nambino, along which the 2 m. track continues at a considerable height, commanding, as from a terrace, extremely fine views. The dolomite range of the BrentaAlta begins to display itself 1. soon 269 Bte. 220 k.—MEBAN to BBESCIA bij VAL BEND ENA. 270 I after leaving Oampiglio. TheCma di Nodis, 10,433 > first comes t into sight, and then (after romid- i ng Mte. Spinale) the next highest summit, more to the N., called the Ohna Tosa, both with snow on their summits, and glaciers in j their hollows. Between them is I a wild array of pinnacles, and a |l remarkable gap, the Bocca di Brenta; a short valley, the Val di Brenta, is seen leading ujd to it. On the rt., or S.W., presently appear the vast snow-fields of the Mte. Levade, and Care Alto, portions of the Adamello group. 3 m. Hamlet and Chapel of S. Antonio. The descent is now abrupt towards the junction of the Namhrone valley (descending ‘from the N.W., and the E. face of the snowy Presanelia) with the Nambino. At the bottom of the descent the Nambino torrent is crossed, and the track continues along its 1. bank, easy walking, passing by the entrance to Val Nainbrone, W. Presently, on the opposite side the stream, is seen the village of Caresolo, the first hamlet of Val Rendena. Shortly after is passed rt. the ancient cii. of San Vigilio (see below}, and then the traveller enters 3m. Pinzolo. (Inn: Bonapace’s, to 1 . after passing ch. and Plaza; 3 bedrooms, and tolerable coun¬ try accommodation; extra room, clean, to be had next door.) Omnibus every morning at 6 to Tione. This village is situated a little above the junction of the Nambino witli the Sarca. The latter issues opposite Pinzolo, W. from the Val di Genova, and flows hence with an extremely sinuous and picturesque course into the Lago di Garda. There are 2 remarhahle churches near Pinzolo. ist, J m. on the road to Campiglio is San Vigilio, covered with frescoes on the S. side repre¬ senting the Dance of Death, date 1536, and of considerable merit. "Within they are destroyed, ex¬ cepting in the chancel, where they illustrate the life of the saint. 2nd. San Stefano, a small, very ancient ch., on a rock at the entrance of Val di Genova, which has also frescoes on one side, legends of St. Stefano, and Tri¬ umph of Death, date 1519 . The interior (key at Oaresolo) records in an inscription its foundation by Charlemagne, who, with 4000 knights, destroyed 7 Pagan castles in the valle3% and erected as many churches. A fresco represents his l^resence at a baptism, and other curious ones bear date 1461 . Pinzolo is in the midst of a fine circle of Excursions. (a) The Val di Genova, W., only recently penetrated by cart-tracks for the sake of its dense forests, leads up on the S. side of the Presanelia, between it and the Adamello portion of the grouj) to the S. It displays a succession of noble waterfalls. The entrance is reached by the rough road through the chestnut wood leading to the little ch. of St. Stefano, which is passed on the 1 . The cascade of Nardis, r hr. from Pin- zolo, pours down magnificently on the rt., coming from one of the glaciers of the Presanelia. i hr. more brings to the falls of Laris, in 3 great leaps, on the S. side of tlie valley. Here are saw-mills, 271 Bte. 220 a.—MEJRAN to BRESCIA hy VAL BENDENA. 272 and a rise in the level of the valley, i hr. further is Tedesco, a few houses inhabited only in summer. The valley bends N.W. till, at a i^oint where the Sarca makes a succession of falls, it turns sharply to S.AV., and closes amidst magnificent scenery, of which 2 fine glaciers form a part. There are 2 herdsmen’s stations here, Bedole and Venezia, and either would supply quarters for an ascent of the Adamello, 11,83 2 ft., which lies back on the S., or for a passage of the Col beside Mte. Pisgana (a western buttress of the Presanella), into Val Oamo- nica at Ponte di Legno. [The ascent of the Adamello was first accomplished by J. Payer, Austrian lieut., 1864, and in the following year Mr. Tuckett and party, after sleeping at the Bedole Malga, at head of Val di Genova, climbed the surrounding clifls on the S. W,, crossed to the 1 . bank of the Bedole glacier, and as¬ cended this to foot of the final peak, the summit of which was reached by the E.N.E. arete in 20 min. more. View of enor¬ mous extent and great inte¬ rest, from the Grivola on one side, to the Gross Glockner on the other. Descent was made by the Val di Miller and Val di Malga to Edolo in Val Camonica. 6J hrs. up, and 6 hrs. down. [The ascent of the Presanella, the most northern member of the Adamello group, and theprincipal feature of the Tonale Pass, was made by Mr. Freshfield in 1863, from the Tonale side, in 7 J hrs. ; he descended by the Val Genova to Pinzolo in 6 hrs.; the track up by the waterfall of Nardis, or the head of Val Nambrone, would probably offer routes as feasible,] (&) Tile Lake of San Giuliano (a mountain tarn), 4 hrs. from Pin¬ zolo, is reached by a glen half way between the waterfalls of Nardis and Ijaris, on the S. side of Val di Genova. Return may be made in 3 hrs, by a steep and direct descent to Pinzolo. (c) Madonna di Campiglio, al¬ ready noticed, affords a charming day’s excursion: with it might be combined an ascent of Mte. Spinale, E., or, to the W., that of Alte. Bitorto. {d) The Val di Agnola, E., open¬ ing hr. above Pinzolo, in the ValNambino, offers a picturesque approach to the grand dolomite precqiices of the Brenta Alta, and tlie return to Pinzolo may be effected by a glen called Brenta dell’ Orso, descending into Val Rendena, a little below Pinzolo. (e) The Bocca di Brenta is, how¬ ever, the most remarkable object in the neighbourhood. It is a great gateway between two spires of dolomite, a range of which, fantastically varied, extends from the Cima Tosa,* tlie chief dolo¬ mite mass oil the N., to the Cima di Nodis, or Brenta Alta, 10,450 ft. on the S., the highest of the group. The way to it is by the village of San Antonio, and thence down to a saw-mill on the Nam- bino stream, at the entrance of the Val di Brenta, 15 hr. from Pinzolo. Ascending this valley through woods and pastm-es, and passing a Malga, the foot of a range of clitfs is reached, which are climbed by a scrambling path to rt., when an upper plateau of the valley is entered upon, and the Bocca is seen in front, with the Cima di Nodis rising in a vast tower “ like the Matterhorn ” on the id. From its recesses to the S. * This name is by some confined to the Brenta Alta. BOCCA DI BRENTA. From a Sketch by F. Tuckett, Esq. 275 Rte. 220 a.—MEBAN to BRESCIA hj VAL RENDENA. 27G “ rolls out a long glacier ribbon,” which leads to the Bocca dei Camozzi. The Pinzolo guides have more than once misled travellers by taking them to this, which is no pass over the main ridge, and ends only among im¬ possible precipices. To reach the true Bocca, after passing a malga, or herd-hut, there is a long ascent among creeping pine and rocks to the foot of a long slope of snow', up which is a tedious climb, to the singular gap, 15 ft. wide at bottom, which forms the Bocca. [Through the Bocca di Brenta lies the Avay to Lago Alolceno. The descent leads in about i hr., turning 1 ., to the Malga dei Vitelli, the highest herd-hut on that side. I5 more, down a rough cattle-track to 1., leads into the head of Val delle Seghe, full of rich beech forest, and surrounded by magnificent dolomite preci¬ pices; a fair path will be found on the 1. bank of the stream through charming glades, but in 1^ hr. it crosses to rt. bank, and passes through saw-mills, before, in |hr., reaching ilfoZmzo, and its small l3ut beautiful lake. (Bough Inn, with decent beds, Giacomo’s.) An interesting path through very solitary scenery leads hence, S., in 5 hrs., by Mu- lina and Villa to Baths of Comano, on the carriage-road to Trent or Eiva; or, turning N., the traveller can reach the Val di Non in 4 hrs. by Andolo and the Val Sporreggio. See Etes. 219 and 220. Ascent of the Brenta Alta was first made by Messrs. Ball and Forster from Molveno, in 1865.] [The Val Dalcon is reached by a pleasant path climbing the hill above Giustino, a little below Pin¬ zolo, E. 2 hrs. to summit, and 2 hrs. descent through the woody solitary valley to its exit in the striking gorge of the Sarca. A romantic path, at a great height above the stream, here conducts to Stenico: see below.] Below Pinzolo the scenery of the Val Eendena is not remarkable, though pleasing. The carriage- road keeps on E. side of stream for a short distance, then crosses a Bridge, and keeps to the 2 m. W. side (a country road also traverses the 1. bank for some distance). Villages are munerous. Strembo is soon passed (whence 1 m. a possible path to the Lago di S. Giuliano). At Pieve di Eendena is the prin -1 m. cipal ch. of the valley; and J m. beyond, an ancient ch., with curious frescoes on S. side, marks the site of the martyrdom of St. Vigilius, Bishop of Trent, a.d. 405, and first Chiistian missionary to these parts, Pelugo is at opening of Vail m. Borzago, W., penetrating to the glaciers of the Care Alto, 11,35 2 ft., the most southern snow-peak of the Adamello block (first ascended in 1865 by Messrs. Taylor and Montgomery from this direction). Vigo ; a fair-looking Inn. 1 m. Villa. [FaZ Valentino opens W., m. leads to S. of Care Alto, and offers a path to the FaZ di Fum. See below.] Valley bends S.E.; road keeps on wooded slopes, with charming views, to Tione {Inns: Cavallo Bianco, 2| m. new house, good rooms; Corona, 277 Rie. 220 k.—MERAN to BRESCIA hj VAL REND ENA. 278 fair and reasonable.) Omnibus daily at 4 aft. to Pinzolo. Sur¬ rounded by veiy picturesque scenery. This is the chief place of Val Kendena, and also of the district called Giudicaria, Tvhich extends N. up to Pinzolo; S. to Condino, on the Chiese; E. to Stenico, on the Sarca. Its name is derived from the ancient pos¬ session of certain rights, and a separate administration. At Tione the Sarca makes an abiupt turn N.E., rushing through two (jrand defiles before falling into the broad valley, by which it descends to the Lago di Garda. [A good rd. follows the Sarca. It is a specimen of admirable en¬ gineering, and offers very striking scenery. Omnibus daily to Le Sarche, 18 m., where it meets otliers to Trent and Riva. Rd. lirst keeps on S. side, through a populous country, then enters a detile, crosses to 1. b.uik, where the torrents are ingeniously carried both over and under the road, crosses again, and the Castle of Stenieo comes in sight high on N. side, with a picturesque torrent rushing down the mountain. (There is a fair Inn near the castle at this romantic vill., reached by a steep climb, and by the path from Val Dalcon; see above. Ohs. Roman and medi¬ eval remains.) Road recrosses the Sarca, and enters opener country [where near a bridge (which leads to Stenico)’a coun¬ try rd. leads southward by way of Campo (fan Lin) and Ballino to Riva, a very charming walk of about 10 m.]. Then among closing hills passes the Baths of Comano, much frequented in summer, but dear to casual travellers. (A foot¬ path leads up to Villa, N., whence it is 4 or 5 hrs. walk to Lago Molveno. See above). 3 m. farther the Sarca cuts its way through a deep and savage gorge, and the road skilfidly descends to Le Sarche, and joins the post¬ road from Trent to Riva, 15 ni. from latter place. Rte. 219 .] El 'om Tione our road, leaving the Sarca, continues in the same line of direction as the Val Ren- dena, aseending the Valley of the Arno on the rt. bank. At Bondo, the Val Bregazzo, m. whence the Arno flows, opens W., and the Val Gavardina E. [A pleasant path up the Val Gavardina leads over a low col to the beautiful Lake of Ledro. Rte. 231 A.] Roncone is on the watershed 2 m. between the Sarca and Chiese. At Pieve di Buoiio the Val 4: m. Daone opens rt. Through it the Chiese descends from the glaciers at its head, there bearing the naine of the Val di Fum. [The Ved Daone, traversed by a cart-road on N. side for 3 hrs!, contains magnificent scenery, be¬ ing a succession of gorges with rocky porphyritic walls. It leads to E. side of Mte. Castello, the most southern member of the Adamello group. Daone, near the mouth, is the only village but there are large saw-mills at Boazze, 3 hrs., and delightful scenery. Here the valley ap¬ proaches Mte. Castello W., enters the granite region, becomes ex¬ tremely wild, and then turns to the N., as Val di Fum. (Near its entrance, high on the 1., is Lago di Caf, known also as L. di Campo; a path from this leads over the pass of Mte. Campo, and 279 life. 2 ^ 1 ,—TRENT to CORTINA hy THAI. 280 by another lake, L. d’ Arno, into the upper part of Val Saviore, and so into Val Camonica, Ete. 231.) The Val di Fum, passing at the back of the Care Alto E., penetrates nearly to the Adamello. There are some herd-huts in the valley 4 Jirs. from Boazze, and a path over into Val Valentino and Val Kendena. A snow pass also lias been made from its head into Val Genova.] Descending the Chiese, the scenery is delightful to 4 m. Condino. (Inns, several; Al- bergo della Torre, very fair.) Cliief place of the Val Bona, or upper Chiesa. (Gmdicaria ends here.) Eoad keeps the rt. bank, and passes ob m. Bridge leading to Sloro. [This is the beautiful rd. by the Lago di Ledro to Eiva, de¬ scribed Ete. 231 A.] 21 m. Lodrone. Frontier between Austria and Italy (Douane here), formed by the Calfaro. [The valley of that name (belonging to Italy) is full of enchanting scenery; it is tra¬ versed by a good road. At Baga- lino is a country Inn; thence the valley tiniis directly N. towards the last summits of the granite range, and from its head the pass of Groce Domini leads into the Val Camonica, S. of Breno.] After passing the Swiss-looking Lake of Idro, 7 m. long, the traveller reaches 13 m. Vestone (Dm: Tre Spade.) From Lodrone southwards see Ete. 231 A. I Brescia (hns : Albei‘go2l m. dTtalia; Eegina dTnghilterra.) (See Handbook N. Italy.') Rte. 221 .—TRENT to COR¬ TINA D’AMPEZZO, by the FLEIMSER or FASSA THAI, the FEDAIA PASS, CAPRILE, and PASS of GUSELLA. TRENT to ) ; KNG. M. IIKS. Neuniarkt (rail). 2ii — Ca\ alese (dil.). j6 — Vigo.2r — Caprile. *.2? 10 Cortina.16 7 f Rail to Neumarkt; carriage*rd. to Cavalese in the Fleiniser Thai, and as far as Campedello in Val Fassa. Bridle-tracks and mountain-paths for the rest. A daily Stellwagen from Neumarkt to Predazzo, beyond Cavalese. j or 4 days will sutRce for a pedestrian to reach Cortina, which is on a good post-rd. descending to Venice. This route lies through some of the most interesting dolomite scenery, conducting the traveller round the N. base of the Marmo- lata, through the grand gorge of Sottoguda, . to the foot of the majestic ^Ite. Civita (where lies the charming lake of Alleghe), and over the Gusella pass, full of striking views, to Cortina, thus crossing the chief dolomite dis¬ trict. The traveller from the N. had better make Botzen his starting- 281 Bte. 22i.— TRF.NT to CORTINA by FAS8A THAI. 282 place, whence by tlie porphyry gorges (see Kte. 217) a carriage- rd. extends to Walsclienhofen, 10 m., and then 4 hrs. over the in¬ teresting Caressa pass will bring him to Vigo in the Fassa Thai. For any one not in¬ terested in the geology of the Fleiinser Thai or the mineralo- gical treasures of Predazzo, this would be a better route than from Trent or by Neumarkt, shorter, and more varied in scenery. The Fassa or Evas Thai, tlie Fleimser or Fiemme Thai, and Val Cembra or Zimmersthal are parts of one long continuous valley, sorne 60 m. in length, through Avhich the Avisio flows, entering the valley of the Adige at Lavis. The above names apply respec¬ tively to the upper, the middle, and the lov/er portions. From Trent it is better to take the rail to Neumarkt, as the rd. is dusty and straight, amidst Indian corn and mulberry-trees, to Gin. Lavis (no good Inn). Here the Avisio issues from Veil Cem- hra. [This valley, a mere ravine, is tedious to ascend, from the pro¬ digious number of lateral clefts that break into it from the por¬ phyry slopes on either hand, and which so lengthen the way that a distance of some 25 m. to Cavalese is increased to nearly 40 m. Nevertheless, the lower part is fertile and well wooded, and there are many highly pic¬ turesque and primitive villages throughout the enthe length. Cembra, to which there is a good rd., is 3 lirs. walk from Lavis, Inn: Lanzigers. Ed. ends at Favra next vill., where horse- track begins, passing through Yalda, Grumes, Grauno, to Capriana 4^ hrs. from Cembra. Fine altarpiece in ch. Hence a new^ car. rd. goes by Altrey to Molina {Inn, good), and thence by the lateral valley of Pradaja to Curano {good Inn), ami so to Cavalese. uo hrs. from Lavis.J Neumarkt Stat. affords the 15 111. readiest access to the Fleimser- thal by a good rd., and daily stellwagen. It passes Montan {Inn, Lowe), where, at 3 m. foot of the wooded dolomite hill, the Cistonberg, stands Schloss Enns. {Enna was the Latin name for Neumai-kt). At Kalditsch, or Delladizza, is a fair In 7 i, usual dining-place. [Here a new rd. comes in, carried in zigzags from Auer in the Adige valley (a stat. on the rly.). This, therefore, is the nearest way from Botzen to Cavalese.] St. Lugano (3587 ft.) is summitl m. of the pass: thence the road descends to Cavalese {Ein, PUva, dear), q 1440 Inhab., chief place of the Fleimserthal, which extends about 9 m. below (to Val Floriana), and about 12 m. above: the ancient Gothic ch. on a height is worth visiting. Old marble portal very interesting, and some good pictures by Unterberger. Stone table and benches above the ch., the old forum of the Commune. Palace of the Bps. of Trent is now a prison. The Cima Lagorei (85 74 ft.) to S.E. is the highest porphyry peak in the Alps. 283 ate. m.—TRENT to CORTINA hy FASSA TEAL. 284 4 m. Tesero, 1 J m. Panchia. f m. Ziano. 3 m. Predazzo {Inns: Alla Nave d’Oro, Jacomelie’s, very comfort¬ able ; Kosa), This spot, the centre of ancient volcanic action, is famous for its mineralogical treasures (specimens at the inn). Varieties of melaphyi-j porphyry, syenite, and granite may be noticed in every wall. In the visitors’ book at Jacomelie’s the names of some of the most emi¬ nent European geologists and mineralogists appear. '[Val Travignolo opens E., en¬ tirely porphyritic, very sparsely inhabited; it ends in a woody basin, where is Paneveggio, 4 hrs., a single farmhouse and Imi (tolerable beds) ; thence over an easy pass, by tlie side of mag¬ nificent dolomites to the E., is a path into Val Castrozza (hospice of San Martino at its head) to Primiero, 6 hrs. from Pane¬ veggio {see Rte. 222 a).] Above Predazzo the valley narrows into a gorge cut by the stream through the rim of the Predazzo crater. Forno, poor vill., is in the midst. The first vill. of the upper valley, Val Fassa, is 7 m. Moena (Inn, bad). The tra¬ veller is now in the district of the dolomites; but their peaks are scarcely yet visible, although he has already passed under the Weiss Horn and Latemar Spitzen to the 1 ., and the Sasso di Loch (8656 ft.) is now in front on the rt. Joh. B. Zachia sells minerals. [W. a path ascends to the Caressa Pass, lying between the 2 great dolomite masses, the Late¬ mar Spitzen S., and the Eosen- garten Gebirge N., and leading to Walschenhofen, 4 hrs., whence there is a road to Botzen, 13 m. [E. a little beyond Moena is the Pellegrino Thai, with a bridle- track. At the head of it is a small Inn, 9 m., and pilgrimage chapel, and a pass over to Falcade, in a populous valley, descending to Ceneenighe (3 small Inns), in the valley of the Cordevole; a rd. thence to Agordo and Bel- luno. From Pellegrino there is also a pass over a cul, close by the Sasso Val Fredda (9000 ft.) to the S. side of the Marmolata, by which, through the gorge of Sottoguda, Caprile can be reached in 9 lu's. from Moena.] Road crosses the Avisio, and presently Vigo (Inn, Eizzi’s, very com -5 fortable) is seen on hillside to 1. ; may be reached by a path across the fields; carriages make cheuit, and a steep- climb. This chief vill. of the Fassa Thai is spread over green slopes. Oh. of St. Johann below, small Ch. of Sta. Juliana above. Excursions. (a) By Oh. of Sta. Juliana lies the path slanting up to the rt., and keeping along a ridge in same direction till it ends in wooded crags, 2 hrs., from which is a very impressive view of the am¬ phitheatre of the Rosengarten, or, iDetter still, ascending higher to the level summit of the Sasso dei Mugoni Alp above on the 1 . (&) The Sasso di Damm (9000 ft.), on E. side of the valley. 285 Bte. 2 ‘ll.^TBENT to COBTINA hy FASSA TEAL. 286 Ascent is through Pozza, over a shoulder into a basin, work round to its eastern rim, and follow the grassy but narrow edge upward till it ends in a point, 4 hrs,, whence is a fine view of the Marniolata E., Sella Spitze and Lang Kofel N. and the whole range of the Rosengartea W. {See outlines. * At Vigo the Eosengarteii are gene¬ rally called the Vajolettgebirge, from the Yajolettothal, which descends from them to Val Fassa. ROSENGARTEN’, FROM SASSO D 1 DAMM. In Pozza, the priest sells minerals, (c) A third excursion, interest¬ ing to the geologist, may be taken up the Monzoui valley to the summit of the ridge above the Monzoni Alp, wliere a mass of syenite, with hypersthene veins, interrupts the dolomite wall unit¬ ing the Sasso di Loch with the Marmolata; many rare minerals and interesting plants are found here. By one or other of tliese ex¬ cursions only can any adequate impression be obtained of tlie dolomites of the Fassa Thai. The bosses of the Sella Spitze are seen at the head of the valley on the way to 3 ^ m. Mazin, Situated where a brook | from the Anlermoja See, a tarn lying among the precipices of the Rosengarten, falls into the Avisio. Picturesque point of view at the bridge. CampedeUo {Inns: Bernhard’s ,31 m. 2 bedrooms, one of them decent, scanty provisions ; Valentini). Above this village iST. are a series of extraordinary dolomite crags, forming part of the Lang Kofel. Bernhard (not the innkeeper) is a good ordinary guide, and has minerals for sale. Vill. 4813 ft. [The Duron Thai, opening W. from Campedello, offers a fine view of the Marmolata, and leads (the path following the stream) to a col, 3 hrs., between the Ross Zahne 1 ., and Platt Kogel rt. The precipices of the Falban 287 me. 2 . 2 \.—TRENT to CORTINA hj FAS 8 A TIIAL. 288 Kogel line the upper part of the valley on tlie 1 . From the col path tm-ns N., and reaches in 30 min. chalets, which supply milk and cheese; thence, hearing W,, over the undulating Seisser Alp, with fine views of the Langkofel and Schlern, the path crosses to a gap in its western edge, and descends to Castelruth, 4 hrs., by a paved track, from which also Ratzes Baths 1 ., at foot of the Schlern, can be reached. From Castelrutli (2 good Inns') see Ete. 227 for paths to Botzen or Brixen.] The head of the valley now bends round rapidly towards S.E. 2 m. Canazei. [Near this a path strikes N. by a steep ascent, and leads between Lang Kofel and Sella Spitze over the Evas Joch to Plan (small Inn, 3 hrs.), at head of Grbden Thai: from this point, over the Grodner Jochl E., is path to Corfara, fair Imi, at head of Gader Thai; see Ete. 227.] Alba, a small vill., is pla^ced where the vail ey forks. [Branch to the rt. ascends the Contrinthal to the Sasso V ernale, standing S.W. of theMarmolata, and a path between the two leads over the Contrin- joch (905 L ft.) to Val Ombretta (see below).] Our path, hitherto level, takes the 1. branch^by lim. Penia, and turning E., pre¬ sently climbs a steep ascent on 1. hand of gorge to the Fedaia Pass (Germ. Fedden), disclosing grand views of the 3 glaciers on the N. side of the Marmolata, and its precipices of bare rock. The Fedaia See, a small tarn, 4 occupies a verdant basin, rich with alpine flowers. On 1 . rises the Padon Spitze (8878 ft), worth climbing for the Adi view of the Marmolata opposite. [^Ascent of the Marmolata. This mtn. (11,463 ft.), the highest and most central of the dolomite region, rises on this N. side in a succession of snow slopes and glaciers, divided by bosses of smooth rock, to a long ridge, falling in one vast wall of pre¬ cipice to the S,, but rising in 2 principal summits, the IMarmolata proper to the W., and the Mar¬ molata di Eocca to E. It is therefore only accessible from the N,, and the route for those coming from the Fassa Thai is by the Fedaia See. The best quarters to start from, however, are at Caprile further on. (There is no good guide, but Pellegrini of Eocca is sufficient for all but the final peak.) From Caprile the Punta Serranta, the most eastern of the spurs of the Mar¬ molata, may be climbed without going round by the Fedaia See. The huts of the Ldbia Alp, 3^ hrs. from Caprile, and on the E. side of the Fedaia Pass, have afforded sleeping-quarters. ^ hr. further ascent of glacier begins, much crevassed; it leads to a rocky wall, which surmounted, the final ridge is attained; but the western end, the true summit crowned with snow, all exj)editions failed in reaching, till that of Herr Grohmann in 1864, which was followed by that of Mr. Tuckett in 1865. The latter left CajOTle at 2'30 A.M., reached Fedaia Col in 3 hrs., the foot of the middle glacier in f hr.; ascended it in a S.W. direction, kept well to rt. above, gained a snowy hollow 289 rde. 2 ' 2 \.~TItENT to COUTINA hy FASSA TEAL. 290 niuiiiiio- up to the ridge between the IMarmolata di Roeca and tlie Marmolata proper, and reached by it the E. foot of the latter, which was then ascended without difficulty, 3^ lirs. from foot of the glacier. View very grand; no difficulty in the ascent. jMARMOLATA, feom sasso di damm. i m. Summit of the Pass (6883 ft.) is reached very soon after passing the FedaiaSee. View disj^lays a fine array of jagged mountain forms.^ A conspicuous one to S.E. is Mtc. Civita, the most picturesque, in form and situa¬ tion, of the dolomite mtns, A steep path descends into a valley —the head of the Pettorinatlial — turning S. and close under the grand precipices of tlie Punta Serranta, the eastern end of the Marmolata. : [At the S.E. corner a valley opens W., and a path leads to tlie Pellegrino Thai over the Col of the Sasso Val Fredda. A short way up this path a track turns off rt. towards the S, face of the Marmolata, leading into Val Omhretta, a desolate spot directly under the great S. precipices of the Marmolata, Kp. Tyr. & Alps. grandly seen on the ascent. From the Val Omhretta is a track over the Contrinjocli (9051 ft.) into the Contrinthal, and so by Alba into the Fassathal.] Arrived at the S.E. corner of the mtn., the path suddenly turns to 1., following rt. bank of the stream, which presently rushes into the grand Gorge of Sottoguda, a narrow 5 cleft nearly a mile long, between walls of rock 1000 ft. high, the path carried from side to side on 12 log bridges. It issues near Sottoguda Village, whence, 1 1 looking back, the entrance would not be suspected. The shortest path is now along a meadow on 1. bank of stream to L 291 Bte. 221 .—TRENl^ to COBTINA hj FA 8 SA THAL. 292 3 m. Eocca, a vill. on the edge of an abrupt descent. Take the opening from the Plaza on L, and descend by a rough track and zigzags through fields to valley bottom. [High on 1. is seen a pictu¬ resque rock, with a few cottages, the vill. of Lastei. It is reached from here by a path through the woods, leading to a lofty terrace path suspended over the Cordevolo and oftering splendid views. The rock itself is part of a singular circle of dolomite crags.] Below Rocca the valley almost immediately falls into that of the Cordevole, running N. and S., issuing from a ravine N., and opening up a magnificent view of Mte. Civita, a vast array of pin¬ nacles S. The village in view is MONTE CIVITA, FROM ABOVE CAPRILE. l|m. Caprile (Jnw, Pezze’s, further end of street, clean and honest, 3 good bedrooms; another near ch.). This village, dreary in it¬ self, is within easy reach of noble scenery. A small column at S. end of the street still bears the Lion of St. Mark, a relic of Vene¬ tian supremacy. Excursions. (a) Lago Alleghe, i m. below, must on no account be missed. Mte. Civita (10,438 ft.) rises superbly at the S. end. Cross to W. side for best view. (&) The Col Dai, reached by a climb of 3 hrs. above the vill. of Alleghe, and in front of the grand precipices of the Civita. From the Col is a very striking view of the vast tower-like Sasso di Pehno and the numerous peaks of Cadore and the Val di Zoldo, all dolomite. Ascend to the rt. by some herd-huts, and the view is greatly improved; and if time allow, work round through a gap to front of the Civita again, and visit Lago Col Dai, a tarn in the midst of the Civita precipices, whence view of Marmolata opposite and of Lago Alleghe far below. See Rte. 222 A, 293 Bte. 222 .-THEN T to VENICE hj VAL SVG AN A. 29 (c) Lastei, mentioned above, is also well worth visiting, 2 hrs. from Caprile. [A rd. is making from Caprile through Alleghe to Cencentghe, 8 m., down the Cordevole valley, whence there is a fair road to Agordo 7 m., and Belluno 20 m.: fine scenery. See Etc. 222 a.] able view is disclosed in front, down a lateral valley of the Ampezzo, lined by fantastic do¬ lomites; and over several more- distant dolomite ranges, amongst which the Tofpia 1., Croda Malcora or Sorapiss opi^osite, and the great Antelao, rt., are the most conspicuous. To Cortina take a 'path by the ch., ascending a short distance, and striking back to the rt. by a terrace path to 3]u. Sta. Lucia (i hr.), vill. on a promontory, ch. at corner, com¬ manding a fine view of Yal Fiorentina and the Sasso di Pel mo at its head. Titian was snowed up here for a fortnight, and afterwards executed a fresco on^ tlie ch. wall, since rudely re- 2)ainted. [From Sta. Lucia a good brid lo¬ rd., interesting for near view of the Pelmo, leads up Val Fioren¬ tina, through Selva (guide lor Pelmo here), i hr. fjrm), and Pescul, ^ hr. (Inn), and over a pass, Forcella Forada, 2 hrs., on N. side of Pelmo, toBorca, 2^ hrs. (tolerable Inn , on Ampezzo rd. Or, from Pescul the Forcella di Ponie may be taken, reported finer than the Forada, and allow¬ ing an ascent of Mte. Uochelta, whence a fine panorama.'\ Our track skirts the base of a hill, and leads up a hollow to the N., at the head of which is the block of dolomite called Mte. Gusella, Trending to the rt., to pass this on the E., the 5 m. Summit of the Gusella Pass is reached (Cima di Fermin on rt.). The Marmolata is finely seen behind, W,; and a very remark- The Descent is by cattle-tracks over pasture, past Milk Sheds, 1., and then through dark pine woods to a shoulder in the Val Costeana commanding the Ampezzo valley below. Bear to 1. for vill. of Lacedell, and be¬ neath lies Cortina (Inns: Aquila NeraS Stella d’Oro), See Ete. 228, Rte. 222. —teent to Ve¬ nice, by VAL SUGANA. TRENT to ENG. M. Borgo. ... 23 Primolano. . 17 Bassano ... 19 ENG. M. Treviso ... 30 Venice (rail), 23 112 Good post-road to Treviso, thence rail to Venice; nialleposte twice a week between Trent and Treviso, and public vehicles daily between the principal towns. 10 hrs. posting from Trent to Bassano; a good walker would require 2 days. The scenery on this route is far superior to any on that by Ve- L 2 m. 295 Bte. 222 .~TRENT to VENICE hy VAL SUGANA. 296 roua. The Val Sugana is highly picturesque, the gorge of the Ois- mone very striking, and the spurs of the hills beyond Bassano offer charming views over the great Venetian plain. As a route to Venice it is 30 m. nearer than hy Verona, but the uninterrupted liy. communication gives the latter the advantage in time. From Trent the rd. ascends the E. side of the valley hy an easy gradient, and turns into the gorge of the Fersina. Notice 3 m. Bridge a few yards rt., on a country rd., where the torrent rushes through a cleft at a vast depth below. The rd. is now scooped out of fine limestone precipices in a narrow defile, and reaches charm¬ ing country at 5ni. Pergine {Inn: Post, Oavallo Bianco), 1550 ft.; near watershed of Adige and Brenta. A pretty town, picturesquely situated; a fine castle of the Bishops of Trent on a height. [The lovely Lago Caldonazzo, the cradle of the Brenta, lies down to the rt., overlooked on S.W. by Mte. Scanupia (7053 ft.) : it is well worth while to make the circuit by a country rd. on the W. side of the lake, under shade of the chestnut woods, to Calcer- anica, and thence round the lower end to Levico, or, as in Kte. 217.] Soon after leaving Pergine, the road descends through a defile (Caldonazzo and its beautiful shores being completely hidden by a long wooded hill). Passing the small Lake of Levico, it reaches Levico, a small busy town of 4 111. 3670 Inhab. Here begins the beauty of the Val Sugana, which, hitherto running S.E., now turns abruptly N.E., with a fine range of mountains on tlie rt., which guard the singular plateau of the Sette Comuni. [A path from Le¬ vico leads over a col. in 10 hrs. by the Cima Vesena to Asiago, Kte. 232]. Masi is a pleasantly situated 3 | m. vill., and the fine dolomite peaks of the Cima Dodici (7660 ft.) begin to show themselves to the S. The waters of the Brenta are conveyed in a canal on rt. of the rd. The castle of Borgo, on a height in midst of the valley, is seen for some distance on ap¬ proaching Borgo di Val Sugana {Inns: 6 J m. Aquila; Croce Bianca), an old i town on site of a Eoman stat. Active silk culture. From castle, 5 reached by a rd. on W. side of * the hill, a charming view of the ( valley and dolomite mts. opposite. ^ (Those on the N. lie too far back ^ to form a feature in the prospect; they are granite, culminating in the Cima clAsta, N.E.) [The Val Sella opens S. oppo¬ site Borgo. A track leads by vill. of Olle, at its entrance, in 2 hrs. to some Baths ; 2 hrs. fur¬ ther is the stalactite grotto of Costalla, whence it is 7 hrs., by side of the Cima Dodici, to Asiago, Sette Comuni.] Strigno {Inn), a small town, 4 m. embosomed among orchards and vineyards, is passed i m. to the 1.; [From Strigno a good rd. as¬ cends through charming scenery to Pieve di Tesino, 5 m., in the desolate stony valley of that 297 llte. 'I'l'l.—TliENT to VENICE name. Thence is a path np the valley, and over a grassy pass, from ■which is a striking view over the valley and moun¬ tains of Primiero, to Canale cl! St. Bovo, 4 hrs. (decent small Inn). Pnmiero is 2 hrs. fm-ther— a beautiful walk. SeePte. 222A. Ascent of the Cima cVAsta (9192 ft.), fatiguing, but rewarding, is made from Strigno. Take pro¬ visions. Vill. of Bieno i hr.; the Quarazza Alp 6 or 7 hrs. Sleep in chalets. (Among the granite rocks of Quarazzo, near, is a small lake.) Descending from the chalets into Val Sorgaza, and following it upwards, the highest point of the Cima d’Asta is reached, frequently covered with snow, but offering a magnificent view. The mountain is of much interest alike to the botanist, mineralogist, and geolo¬ gist.] The valley now narrows, hem¬ med in by mountains. 6 m. Grigno, last place in Tyrol, at entrance of theValley of Tesino, N. This valley, too stony for much cultivation, is inhabited by an in¬ dustrious race of pedlars and printsellers, whose wanderings through Europe began in the 17th cent. The family of Artaria belong to it. The Brenta now turns S., skirt¬ ing still on the rt. the liigh pla¬ teau occupied by the Sette Co- muni. 7 m. Primolano (Inn and Post- house), a poor vill., but important as situated at the commencement of the grand defile of Covelo, and at the foot of the pass which leads E. into the Cismone valley and Feltre country. Napoleon, in Sept. 1796, marching round by the Val Swgana, after the battle of hy VAL SUGANA. 298 Eoveredo, here surprised and de¬ feated the Austrian vanguard of Wurmser’s army. [The road to Feltre, 12 m., ascends by zigzags from Primo¬ lano. Belluno is about 23 m. further. For the interesting ex¬ cursion to Primiero and Agordo from Feltre see Rte. 222 a.] Soon after leaving Primolano, in the midst of the defile, a singular cave may be discerned 1., about 100 ft. above the rd. It once held a fort capable of ac¬ commodating 500 men, and com¬ pletely commanded the passage. Maximilian took it from the Vene¬ tians in 1509 . It has no visible approach. Water was derived from an internal spring, and its magazine was cut out of the rock. The author of ‘Vatliek,’ travel¬ ling this way in 1780, gives a striking description of its situa¬ tion, and of the romantic grandeur of the defile. See Southern Ger¬ many, Pte. 222. The rd. crosses the Cismone, descending from a gorge to the 1., and reaches vill. of Cismone. Here Napoleon 4 m. halted the night before the battle of Bassano, and was glad to share a private soldier’s ration. The scenery is very fine about here. {Enego, a vill. on the Sette Comuni heights, i hr. from Cis¬ mone, and reached also from Primolano, has a castle with arms of La Scala, and a glorious view from ch.-yard of St. Antonio.] Passing southwards, the luxu¬ riance of southern vegetation begins to appear, and becomes decided at Valstagna (comfortable Inn on 7 m. 299 Rte. 222 .—TRENT to VENICE hy VAL SUGANA. 300 the post-rd., nr. the bridge; della Torre ?), a small town on W. side of the stream, where the valley makes a bend; famous for its tobacco plantations. [The best access to the Sette Comuni on this side is from here, but the track is up the bed of a torrent, in a grand ravine, down which, in the rainy season, timber is floated. Asiago, the chief place {Inn), is about lo m. from Val- stagna. See Ete. 232.] ' [F rom Valstagna there is a rd. on both banks of the stream to Bas- sano, and tha t on the W. or rt. bank ofters an opportunity, wiiich should not be missed, by a slight detour, for visiting the curious caves of Oliero, 3 m. below Valstagna. Enter by a paper manufactory, which will supply a guide. The stream is speedily found issuing from a rocky recess; by boat and torchlight it is pursued a short distance, and leads to a wonderful display of stalactites. It is about 8 m. from Oliero to Bassano, pass¬ ing through Campese and St. Michele, where the road falls into that from Schio, which presently crosses the Brenta by a wooden bridge.] The post-rd. on the 1 . bank continues through villages, or¬ chards, and tobacco-grounds till, opposite Campese, the valley opens upon the rich plain of the Vicen- tino. Fronting the opening, upon a commanding height is 8 m. Bassano {Inns: Sant’ Antonio, clean; II Hondo, good; Luna); 15,000 Inhab. The old walls draped with ivy, and the many towers, combine with its situation to give a very picturesque appear¬ ance to this old town. One of the 6 gateways was erected by Palladio. The castle, built by Eccelino the tyrant, is now an ecclesiastical residence. Some of the windows offer a fine view. Palace of the Podesta contains frescoes and statues. The Museum possesses a valuable library and geological collection; also a Picture Gallery, with speci¬ mens of Da Ponte, better known as Bassano, and casts of the works of Canova, drawings, &c. The grounds of the Villa Paro- lini, just outside the walls, are noted for a fine Pinetum and Botanical Garden. Apply by card. The Terrace walk outside the walls on theN. affords a fine view. Villa Rezzonico is celebrated for its exquisite views, and posseses also works of Canova. Napoleon, after his march through the defile of the Brenta, fell upon and de¬ feated Wurmser at Bassano, after¬ wards (1809) creating Maret Duke of Bassano. [^Excursion, to Possagno (about 12 m.j, Canova’s birthplace, and in a charming country, noted for the Ch. he built there, and his house, containing models of his works; also to Asolo, 4 m. from Possagno, very interesting mediae¬ val town. Noble panorama from castle hill. See Route 233. The traveller can take these places on his way to Treviso. Tho roads are good.] From Bassano the direct road lies by the richly cultivated plain through Godego to 1 Castelfranco, 3 800 Inhab. 3 Ancient town, in midst of the plain, surrounded by walls and towers; birthplace of Giorgione, { Hci 801 me. 222 K.—PRIMOLAm to CORTINA. 302 house in N. wall. Small, but ex¬ cellent picture by him (Madonna with Saints) in principal ch. In the Sacristy a fresco by Paolo Veronese. Villa Soranza, W. of the town, fine building by San Michele. m. Treviso (Inns: Albergo Keale; Quattro Corone, good); j8,6oo Inhab.; capital of a province, seat of a bishopric, sit. on the Sile. Duomo, with 5 cupolas, a fine building, contains a chapel with frescoes by Pordenone. Ch. of San Nicolo, fine brick edifice of 14th centy., with a famous picture by Pensabene. Monte di Pietd, fine ‘ Entomb¬ ment ’ by Giorgione. Villa Manfriniy extensive gar¬ dens. Kailway 4 times daily in about I hr. to 23 m. Venice (Inns: Albergo Daniele; Hotel de la Ville; Hotel Victoria, &c.) Carriages can be left at Mestre, last stat, before Venice; charge, i franc per day. See Ilandhoolt N. Italy, Pie. 26. Rte. 222 A.-primolano, in VAL SUGANA, to CORTINA D’AMPEZZO, by PRIMIEEO, AGORDO, and CAPRILE. PRIMOLANO to ENG. M. ITUS. Fonzaso.9 — Primiero.17 6 Agordo.18 8 Caprile.15 5 Cortina.j6 7 Carriage-road to Fonzaso; mule-track Ihence through Primiero to Agordo; a char-rd. most of the way to Caprile, and foot-path to Cortina; 3 days to walk. This route leads through se¬ cluded, curious, and some very grand scenes. Primiero is in¬ teresting as a community founded by fugitives fi-om Friuli at the time of Attila's invasion, and for the extraordinary dolomites at head of the valley. Agordo and Caprile are in the midst of very noble scenery. See Rte. 221. Primolano, at the entrance of the defile of Covelo, is described Rte. 222, (Vehicles obtained at the Post-house.) The rd. to Feltre strikes otf E. by zigzags over a hill, and then descends by a bare valley to the river Cismone, which, rising beyond 5 m. Primiero, joins the Brenta below the defile of Covelo. Arten. The rd. continues 3 m. on to Feltre, about 4 m., but at this vill. a branch rcl, turns oif 1. to Fonzaso, a straggling village; 1 J m. mules or donkeys to be hired at a house at further end on rt. hand side. Bridle-pcdli at first runs high above the Cismone in a rocky gorge; then, to avoid a dangerous bridge, winds among stony hills to rt., passes a shrine raised in memory of a pestilence, and reaches, on a pleasant upland, the villages of Sarriva and Zorzoi. Path then re-enters the ravine of the Cis¬ mone, and passes 80.3 Bte. 222 A.—PItIMOLANO to COJiTIXA 30 i A Ruined Tower, once a toll¬ house for Primiero. Presently the 9 m. Valley forks. [The 1 . hand branch ascends to Canale St. Bovo [Inn), a dependency of Primiero, in a wild valley, partly filled by a lake, Lago Nicovo, formed by a rockfall on W. side from the Cima d’Asta (9192 ft.). It is the entrance to the granite district of the Cima d Asta.] ■ Take rt. hand branch. In a short distance the frontier between Venetia and Tyi'ol is crossed, and a small im. Inn (Osteria) appears in a green solitary spot (good coffee and bread here, and the rare fern Asplenium Seelosii, to be gathered among the rocks). Ascending by side of the stream, a chapel is seen on a pinnacle in front, mark¬ ing where the ravine ends, and the valley, becoming wide, rich, and populous, turns N.E. [Over a low range of bills N. W. is the frequented path to Ca¬ nale St. Bovo, passing through the vill. Gohhera. From it is a strik¬ ing view S. down the two gorges.] 4 m. Imer and Mezzano, large villages, are passed, and the pic¬ turesque dolomites at head of the valley are seen before entering 8 m. Pieve di Primiero, or Fiera [Inn, Aquila Nera, Bonetti’s, hirthereud of str. tort.; best of 3, and comfortable), 2366 ft., chief l^lace of the valley, and in old times of a small republic founded by fugitives from Attila; became noted in 15th centy. for its silver- mines, worked by German colo¬ nists, who built the ch., German Gothic of 13th centy., and pre¬ sented a monstrance of solid silver, still preserved in sacristy. Close by is the Fiirst Amt, a tall fortified house, with eyelet-holes for cross¬ bows, built for defence of officers of the mines. IronworlcshsLYe been established by Ct. Welsperg, who has a house in tlie town. Vill. of Transacqua (“ across the water ”), with Ormanico, was a fief of the Venetian Doges, and possesses a curious little ch. with frescoes (if not destroyed) and picture of St. Marc; head re¬ puted to be by Titian. (?) Gastello della Pietra on a rock in the distance, see below. [Beyond Primiero the valley of the Cismone turns N. Siror was one of the ancient settlements; near it were the principal silver- mines, abandoned from earth¬ quakes. A frequented track ascends the stream to S. Alartino, Inn, 2 Ill's.; magnificent dolomite crags along tlie E. side of valley; and in 4 more crosses a col (6664 ft.) to Paneveggio in Val Travignolo (solitary Inn or hospice) ; thence 4 hrs. to Predazzo, in Fassa Thai. See Ete. 22 r. E. of S. Martino rises the Palle di S. Martino (10,968 ft.), next to the Marmolata the loftiest of the Dolomite Mts. From S. Martino, tlie traveller, turning E., may gain the ridge between the Cimon della Pala (10,64.2 ft.) N. and the Cima della Eosetta S., 3 hrs.; descend by a series of magnificent gorges and basins, through most striking scenery, into the Val delle Comelle, and crossing to rt. bank of the torrent just above a cascade, reach the vill. of Gares in a charming situation, 3 hrs. Thence an easy walk of 2 hrs. N. and then E. by rite.2‘nA.—rBIM)LA^0 to CORTINA. 30G 305 Forno di Canale will bring to Cencenicjlie, on the rcl. to Capri le; but much finer scenery will be visited by crossing the Gemrette Col from Cares E. into the Valle di San Lucano (see below\ and entering the Caprile rd. at Taibon.] Crossing tlie Cisinone, and leav¬ ing to 1. spot wliere a village was buried in the great earth¬ quake of 1348, a bridle-road passes through Tonadigo, and ascends towards the most remarkable object in the valley, the Euined Gastello della Pietra, on 2 an isolated rock, now inaccessible; originaUy built to defend ap¬ proach to the valley, afterwards the stronghold of the Welspergs. Beliiiid it to 1. is a wonderful array of shattered dolomite peaks, one of which, tlie Cima Cimedo, is almost unique for the variety of its horns and pinnacles, especially CIMA CIMEDO. as seen from near Primiero. In the valley at their foot is a hunting lodge of Count Welsperg, J hr. behind the castle. [A very fine pass can be made this way into the Val di San Lucano^ otfering a short route to Caj^rile : see be¬ low.]) Our path, ascending across the lace of the castle precipice, bears to rt., and ascends a long wooded valley pointing E., and leading to a grassy 3 m. Col, whence is an abrupt descent among scrub and bushes, into Val di Mis. {Sagron, the earliest settlement of the Primiero re¬ fugees, is seen below on rt.) The route keeps high up on 1. side of the valley, and circles round the hill till it turns N. to ^ Gosaldo, a vill. with a new G m. ch. [The Val di Mis turns in an opposite direction, S.E., and de- Uli-I 307 Rte. a.—PBIMOLANO to COBTINA. 308 scends into the great Bellunese valley—Val di Mel.] [From Sagron there is a hridle- rd. to Agordo, possibly more direct, leading past the great copper-works, but far inferior in scenery.] Alpine uplands succeed Go- saldo, lying at the base of tlie Sasso di Campo, a great dolomite mass to the N. Then a Descent through woods to Frassene, amidst rich and smil¬ ing country, with a view forward of the grand circle of dolomites surrounding the small plain. 7 m. Agordo (Inn, fair, over arches at upper end of the Piazza). Casa of the Monzoni family, large pro¬ prietors in province of Belluno, on one side of Piazza, and domed ch. on the other. Town delight¬ fully situated in valley of the Cor- devole, where it opens into a small plain, girdled by mountains. The most remarkable of these are the Palle di San Lucano, 2 lofty towers of dolomite at entrance of valley of that name, N.W. of the town. The copper-mines 2 m. S. of Agordo, where the valley again contracts to a defile, are of great note and antiquity, and distin¬ guished by a unique method of smelting. The wooded eminence S. of tlie town has delightful walks and views. [The road to Belluno, 20 m., passes through the copper-works, and traverses for many miles a defile of great grandeur, issuing into the charming scenery of the Val di Mel, 5 m. from Belluno. See Kte. 233.] The road up the valley passes large village of Taibon 1 ., at entrance of the 1 Valle di San Lucano. [This valley, named from a small and ancient ch. of great repute 5 m. up, from which also the dolomite towers — the Palle di San Lucano, men¬ tioned above — receive their de¬ signation, displays extraordinary scenery at the upper end, wliere the precipices and turrets of Mte. Agnaro (9441ft.) on the S. surpass those of the Palle on the N., and are almost unequalled in their grandeur. There are also several beautiful waterfalls up the rt.- hand branch, leading to an easy pass over the Forcella Gesurette, which conducts to Gares, a charming village amidst a grand amphitheatre of rocks, whence is a circuitous but easy path by Forno di Canale (Inn) to Cen- cenighe. This route would be preferable for a pedestrian to the direct road. Distance about 20 m. instead of 6. From the l.-hand branch (Valle d'Angoraz) of the Val di San Lucano, a pass may be made highly reconunended by Mr. Tuckett, as “ traversing some of tlie grandest scenery of the dolo¬ mites.” The glacier at its head should be ascended to a depression in the ridge between the Cima di Canali W., and the Sasso di Campo E. From this there is an immediate descent into the Val di Canali, which leads direct to the Castello della Pietra, the path working round to 1. of it before descending to Primiero.] Valle di Comparsa opens rt., leading to the back of Mte. Civita. Tlie valley becomes wild and dreary. In front a distant long line of grey wall is none other than the Marmolata, lost before approaching 309 Bte. 223.—BBIXEN to VILLAGE. 310 6m. Cencenighe. 3 small Inns: Stella d Oro, clean, but very small. Vill. at entrance of Val Canale [at bead of which is Falcade (Inns) and a pass into the Pelle¬ grino Thai, communicating with Val Fassa]. [Ascent of Cima diPape (8238 ft), formed of volcanic ash, S.W. from^ Cencenighe, 5 hrs. to sum¬ mit, is much to be recommended for its magnificent dolomite pano¬ rama, including especially the E. face of the Primiero dolomites.] Send forward to order boat for Lago Alleghe. A road is constructing hence up the valley, which is somewhat barren, to 4 m. Lago Alleghe, the beauty and grandeur of which cannot be appreciated till the fm-ther end is reached, where the view back¬ ward of Mte. Civita (10,438 ft.) is most superb. Lake was formed nth January 1772, by a slide from Mte. Pizzo W., the remains of which still form a vast dam at the lower end. Walls of 3 villages then sub¬ merged may be discerned from AV. shore at certain times. A boat will best display scenery and save the detour of the road by the E. sliore through vill. of Alleghe. Ch. on a green mound by tlie lake. [A path over the Col Dai, 3 hrs. above village E., from which tlie S. side of Sasso di Pelmo is very grandly seen, leads into Val di Zoldo. Dont, 3 hrs. furtlier, has a fair Inn (Oercena’s). Forno, 1 hr. further (Inn tolerable, also a Cerceua’s); thence a romantic defile 12 m. to Longarone on the Piave and great rd. Rte. 228.J In the defile above the lake are curious stratifications of rocli rt. It is savage and desolate to Caprile (2 Inns: Pezze’s, at 4 m. S. end in the street, best; the otlier near ch.). Ohs. on en¬ tering village a column, sur¬ mounted by Lion of St. Mark, denoting the former Venetian dominion. For the fine scenery in the neighbourhood and the route over the Gusella Pass, 7 hrs., to Cortina d’Ampezzo, see Kte.lGin. 221. Rte. 223.—BRiXEN to vii- LACH, by the PUSTERTHAL. BRIXEN to ENG. M. Brunecken . 2J5 Niederndorf. Lienz. . . . jji Spital 1 . . . 32f Ellwagen daily in 26^hrs. From Nie¬ derndorf a branch dil. starts for the Am- pezzo, and communicates with one for Belluno. Plenty of Stellwagen between the intermediate towns. Posting is fairly done. Travellers from Innsbruck, if not using the dil., need not go down as far as Brixen, but should hire at Mittewald for Unt. Vintl, the first stat. in the Puster- Ihal. This route forms the highway into Carinthia, and also by Pass of Ampezzo to Venice (Rte. 228). ENG. M. Villach . . . 2 1271 311 JUe. 22‘S.—]miXEN to VILLAGIL 312 The Pustertlial, including the “ Uiiter,” extends as far as Lienz, and is one of the longest valleys in Tyrol. The Eienz, issuing from the Ampezzo pass, flows through the greater portion of the valley, joining the Eisack at Brixen. The sceneiy for the most part is tame; but that of the lateral valleys, occasionally opening to view, is very fine. Those to the S. lie among the Dolomite mtns., which at cer¬ tain points, such as the en¬ trance to the Ampezzo, at Inni- chen, and at Lienz, are seen to great advantage. The valley of the Drave, which succeeds that of the Eienz, contains some noble scenery. The country inns along this route are generally roomy and comfortable. [Coming from the Brenner, the Eisack is crossed close under the fortress of Franz- ensfeste, 4 m, below Mittewald, by a single arched bridge, the Ladritsche Briicke, and the road turns E. over a rich and broken plain towards the entrance of the Pusterthal. Unter Vintl, 7J m, further, is the first post stat. from Mittewald. A plea¬ santer and shorter way for a pedestrian is to turn 1. below the Fort at a signpost to Spinges on the hill, whence is a fine view, and the distant dolomites can be seen. The descent is very pretty to IMiihlbach, first village in the Pusterthal.] From Brixen the road, ascend¬ ing by the Eisack, crosses it at Ijm. Heustift, an ancient chapter- house, with library and ch., the latter containing the tomb of the IMinnesinger Oswald von Wolken- stein. At Schabs is a path rt. to the castle ruins of Rodeneclc, enclosed on 3 sides by tlie Eienz. A little beyond this village is junct. with the road from Franzens- feste. Milblbacb (Inn: Sonne, good 5 ni. and cheap). Agood'we?«is ob¬ tained from the slopes of the Me- ranser Hohe, N. [To the W. of it runs the Walserthal, in which, 2 hrs. from Miihlbach, is a bath es¬ tablishment. It penetrates to the western end of the Zillerthal group.] Miihlbach is in a deep glen, which presently narrows into the Miihlbacber Klause, a defile at the entrance of the Pusterthal, where the road passes under the archway of a ruined fort, formerly the key of tlie pass. It was keenly contested in 1809 with the French, who i^artially blew it up. Unter Vintl (Inn : Post, good ,3 m. but dear). [The Pfundersthal opens N.]. The road keeps be¬ side the Eienz through monoto¬ nous scenery, and a few small villages. Wooded hills on op¬ posite bank, where, after some ’ distance, is seen Ilstern, a small bath-house, and presently the chateau of Ehrenburg. Then the valley opens a little, the v Convent of Sonnenberg is passed on height to 1., opposite the entrance to the Gader Thai rt., where stood the Eoman Stat. Litamum, and the road crosses the river to St. Lorenzen. [Here a char-]2 m. road strikes ofi" S. into the Gader Thai, guarded by Castle of Mi- J chaelsberg. It leads into fine 313 B.fe.22S.—BniXmto VILLACTL 3U dolomitic scenery at its head, whence are passes into the valleys of Groden, Fassa, and Livina- lungo, Ete. 227.] 2in. Brunecken (Inns: Post, very good; Stern, fair, and not dear), principal place of the valley, but with only 1800 Inhab. Scenery here greatly improves. Tlie castle, on an abrupt height, com¬ mands a fine view. It was built by a Bp. of Brixen, is now a prison, but in 1552 sheltered Charles V. on his flight from Innsbruck. [Valley of Taufers o^Dens N. with a good car-road, 30 m., to St. Valentin, whence a path leads over the Noric Alps by the Krimler Tauern into the valley of Salzach, Ete. 225.] By a new rd. a long ascent is now surmounted, a portion of the snowy Zillerthal group being seen to N. up the Taufers valley, and presently to S.E. some of the Dolomites. The vill. of Olang is seen on 1 . bank of the Eienz and the stream of the 6 m. Antholz valley is crossed : the road to it turns off a little further at an Inn (Traube). [5 or 6 m. up the valley are the Baths of Antholz, and at its head a pass over the Tefereggen Joch to St. Jacob’s, in the Tefereggen Thai, by which is an interesting route to Windisch Matrei and Heili- genblut, see Ete. 224.] 6 m. Welsberg (Inn : Golden Eose, very clean). The castle of the Counts of Welsberg, built 1140, is seen N. at entrance of the Gsiesthal [the valley in which Haspinger, the Tyrolese leader, was born]. A little beyond Welsberg the Brags or Frags Thai is seen opening S,, and showing some dolomite peaks. [A char-road leads uj) the valley, mounting steeply in i hr. to the Baths of Frags, or Alt Prags (pron. Prax). These are in the 1 . or E. fork of the valley, and offer a pleasant retreat in a delicious Alpine basin, surrounded by striking dolomite masses. The accommodation is rough, but fairly clean, and the terms very moderate. The other fork of the valley turns S.W .; the rd. to it turns off i hr. before reaching the baths, and, passing through the vill. of St. Veit, leads in i hr. to the Wild or Brags See, a small lake, over¬ hung by the noble precipices of the See Kogel (9074 ft.). It is a very fine bit of scenery, well worth the excursion. The lake is about 5 m. from the post-road, a wheel-track most of the way; and dinner can be had at a small bath-house {Neu Brags), hid in the woods on rt. bank of the stream, about m. before reach¬ ing the lake. The ichole is a good botanical district. From Alt Prags a path through noble dolomitic scenery leads S. in 5 hrs. over a low col by the side of the Geiselstein {Crepa Bossa), and down a romantic ravine to Schludersbach (Inn: good), on the Ampezzo rd., Ete. 228.] Niederndorf Post; Adler, 3 | m. both good), a busy vill., 1000 Inhab. Dolomites of Landro in view : the highest is the Biirken- kofl (9514 ft.). The rd. presently crosses the Eienz, and passes over a tract of elevated land (4150 ft.), the watershed between the Adriatic and Black Seas. Vill. of Toblach is seen to 1 ., and on 315 me. 22S.~Bmxm to villa Cll 316 the rt. the road of the Ampezzo turns oft’. [This road ascends the narrow gorge from which the Kienz is¬ sues, and passes by Cortina and Cadore to Venice, traversing grand dolomitic scenery, Ete. 228.] Sj in. Innichen (Inns: Zuin Baren, good ; Kossl). Here first appears the Drave, which rises in the woods at foot of tlie dolomite peaks S. A Eoman Stat. (Agun- tium) occupied the low hiil S. of the town, and was finally destroyed by the Slovenes in 610. A Bene¬ dictine Abbey, founded in 770, was the origin of Innichen. After suppression in 1785 it was reconstituted in 1816 by Emp. Francis. The Minster Church, Eomanesque, is interesting. Ohs. ])ortal, an ancient crucifix, &c. The dolomite mountain, Drei Schuster (^the Cobblers) (10,350 ft.), is finely seen S. at entrance of the Sexten Thai. [The Valley of Sexten possesses very striking scenery. A road leads through it, and over a low col (the Kreuzberg) in the main chain, to Cadore on the one hand, or the Tagliamento on the other. Ete 228 A.] The road crosses and recrosscs the Dmve before reaching 9 m. Sillian (Inn, Post, good and moderate). [The Vilgratten Thai opens N.3 The castle on height above was built by workmen from Styi-ia, said to have after¬ wards founded the German colony of Sappada, S. of the Carnic Alps. The fine dolomite mtns. of Lienz appear in front. [A little below Sillian to rt. a horse-path ascends the Kartitsch Thai, and then crosses over the I watershed into the Lessach or 1 upper Gail Thai; much fre¬ quented by pilgrims to the shrine of Sta. Maria Lukau. Ete. 223 a.] Mittewald (Inn, Post.) The 9 ^ m. valley here narrows, and the 1 Drave presently rushes through a gorge, tlie Lienzer Klause, 3 hrs. long, where the road is cut in the rock, or > supported on masonry. This defile was twice defended by the ’ Tyrolese in 1809, each time with heavy loss to the French ; grand precipices overhang it on the S. Lienz (Inns: Post, very good; 9 ^ m. Eose; Fischwirth), excellently situated for excursions. It is the . last town in Tyrol, 2000 Inhab., " at junction of Isel with the Drave. Commands the noble valley of the latter, here guarded on the S. by majestic dolomite moun¬ tains, the last in this direction, and forming a group (the Kreuz Koji) by themselves. On the N., in contrast, rise green hills and mtns., of which the Schleinitz is the most conspicuous. Lienz occu¬ pies the site of Loncium on the once great Eoman rd. from A qui- leia on the Adriatic, northward over the Carnic Alps to the Drave, and thence over the Noric Alps j to Valdidena, near Innsbruck. The counts of Gorz, once the lords of the district, resided fre¬ quently in the ancient Landge- richtshaus. Their more modem chateau at the mouth of the Isel- thal, and commanding a fine view, is now a brewery. Excursions. * (a) The most interesting is to 317 318 llte. 223 .~BRIXEN to VILLACH. HeilirjenUut and tlie Gross Glock- ner, the highest mountain of tlie Eastern or Noric Alps. A rough bridle-road starts from Dolsach, 4 m. below Lienz, ascends the Iselsberg, the boun¬ dary _ between Tyrol and Ca- rinthia, which otfers from its summit an extremely Jine view ot the Lienz dolomites, and de¬ scends to WinJdern in the Moll- thal (Rte. 224). HeilUjenhlut is 16 m. Jiigher up the valley; and from Lienz to that j^lace is ^ reckoned a 7 hrs. walk, 2^ of which are occupied in crossing the Iselsberg. From Heiligen- blut Gastein may be reached in 14 or 15 hrs. more, over the Eauriser Tauern. (6) The Gail Thai. This valley may be reached by a romantic path, both in ascent i and descent, over the KerscJi- j haumer Alp (« botanical site), : starting from vill. of Leisach, ! 2 m. on the Pusterthal road. A J hut, f hr. below col, supplies milk, &c.; de,scent is down a - torrent-course in a wild ravine, issuing upon a lateral valley of i the Lessach Thai (or Upper Gail- thal), which last is entered (after ^ passing a small bath-house) about ’ I hr. below St. Maria Lukau ^ (Rte. 223 a). From Lukau the I traveller may return to Lienz by ' Sillian, or continue down the j Gailthal (visiting the Gartner I Kogel), or diverge at Kotschach to the deserted pass of Sta. Croce (the Roman rd.), and gain the I upper waters of the Tagliamento, I Rte. 223 A. ' (c) To Windisch Alatrei, up tlie valley of the Isel. The I Venediger Spitze, and the grand 1 S. side of the Noric Chain, are the attractions of this excursion, Rtes. 226 and 225. txio ]Juai-iuaU keeps the middle of the valley, and the Grave, which flows under the grand precipices of tlie Unholde (the Wizard) on the rt., is not seen. The villages lie on the slopes to the 1.: among them is Dolsach (Jnn\ where the track to Heiligenblut tmms off. Lengherg, ]., an ancient castle of the lords of Matrey, is jiassed before reaching Nicolsdorf, the last Tyrolean 8 m. vill. ; then the valley narrows, and the frontier of Carinthia is crossed. Ober Drauburg {Inn: Post, 3^ m. rather rough). Village is over¬ looked by an old castle. [A road strikes off liere rt. by a steep ascent for the Gail Thai, descending into it at Rotschach (good Inn \ opposite entrance to the Sta, Croce pass, Rte. 223 a.] Only one village, Dollach, is passed on the ratlier monotonous road hence to Greifenberg ( Jnns; Beim Nag -12 m. ler, good; Post). Fine view from the castle above. [A road, very steep, but j^ic- turesque, leads hence S. in 2 hrs. to the peaceful little lake of Weissensee, crossed at the village of Oberdorf by a bridge. No road along the lake; but there are rude canoes by which the traveller may be paddled in about 3 hrs. to the E. and more interesting end of the lake, whence, by an agreeable path through the Stoclcenboyer Thai, abounding in iron-forges, he may regain the Grave valley at Pa- ternion. At 3 hrs. from the lake is a decent country Inn. There 319 Bie. 223 A.—THE GAIL THAI. its a quicksilver-mine in tUe valley. The road from Greifen- burg continues on past the W. end of the lake, crosses a low woody col, and descends into the Gitsch Thai at the village of AVeissbriach. A fair road hence follows the valley to Hermagor, where it joins that of the Gail Thai. From Greifenburg to Hermagor is a drive of about 6 lirs. Rte. 223 A.] After passing Steinfeld the river and rd. wind north^yard, and there are few villages, till at last the river, now in a narrow defile, is crossed to Rte. 223 A.-the GAIL THAI, from SILLIAN in the PUSTEKTHAL to VILLACH on the BRAVE. Also PASS of SANTA CROCE. SILLIAN to ENG. sr. St. Maria Lukau. 16 KOtscliacli . . .16 ENG. sr. Hermagor . . 22 Villacli ... 32 12 in. Sachsenburg, a village, with iron-forges; near it 3 ruined castles. The Dravc is recrossed immediately, and a little further on, the Moll enters the Grave from the N., the rd. crossing it. [The only carriage route to Heiligenblut, and the scenery of the Gross Glockner, is up the Mdllthal, Etes. 201 and 244.] From this point the Drave, after some windings, makes a great bend to the S.E., and the road follows it through Lendorf and St. Peter to 9 2 m. Spital, where the high road from Salzburg comes in. For details hence, by m. Paternion, to The Gail Thai, about 80 m. long, runs S. of the Drave valley, and nearly parallel to it. The upper end (Lessachthal) is acces¬ sible only by foot or bridle paths, and the track through it winds much on account of numerous lateral gullies. At Kdtschach the carriage-rd. from Ober Draubm-g (Rte. 223) enters, and continues down the valley. The route does not otfer much striking scenery, but it embraces some points of in¬ terest. From near Sillian is a stee2i ascent through woods into the Kartitsch Thai, a cheerful valley ascending to the watershed at In der Innerst. The Gail ripples from the grass on the other side, and the Lessachthal begins. Tilliach is a large vill. on an enormous fan of debris; busy in pilgrimage time. 141 in. Villach, see Ete. 243. Sta. Maria Lukau. {Inn: Gug-IG m. genburger’s, fair; accommodation also at the Convent, a large build¬ ing, pleasantly situated.) The small ch., dedicated to the Virgin, 321 Rte. 223 K.~The GAIL TEAL. 322 and dating from 1560, is famous as a place of pilgrimage. People are simple; scenery quiet and picturesque, with glimpses into rocky” 8. [Lukau may be reached from Lienz by a path in 7 hrs., not always practicable, which leaves the road at Leisach, ascends to the Kerschbaumer Alp, crosses a col above it, displaying fine views of the near dolomites, of the distant Norics N., and the Oarnics S., and drops by the side of a torrent through a long and singular cleft into a lateral valley opening upon the Lessachthal.3 , Lorenzen. [From this vill. ascent of the Paralba, S., offering one of tlie finest panoramas in the German Alps, has been made. At the vill. of Frohn is the guide Lugger. Course is up the Frohn- thal to the Baden, or highest level of the valley, hrs.; a good timber rd. continues up to the Hochalhel pass (7550 ft.). There rd. ceases. A fine vieio of Dolomites and Norics. Summit of Paralba (western peak) is reached from the pass in i hr. by a good cragsman. View in¬ cludes all the chief dolomite mts., Antelao, Pelmo, Sorapiss, Marmolata, and Drei Schuster, all Friuli, all the Norics, and some of the Zillerthal mts., also the Karavankas and Julian Alps, in profile. From the pass, de¬ scent can be made to Sappada or to Forni Avoltri (Kte. 228 a).] IGm. Kotschach {Inn: Kiirschner, very fair). A little above this the true Gailthcd begins, with a drop from the level of the upper valley. The road from Ober Drau- biu’g comes in behind Kotschach. Kp). Tijr. & Alps. On opposite side of the valley is Mauthen {Inn: fair), where the old Counts of Gorz collected toll {Mauth). [Behind Mauthen is a gap in the hills, guarded E. by the coni¬ cal peak of the Polinik (7743 ft.), and W. by the grand dolomite mass of the Kollin Kofel (about 9300 ft.), forming the S. wall of the Valentinerthal. Through this gap went the old Roman road over the Carnic Alps from Lon- cium (Lienz) to Aquileia. It is now but a rough track used for light timber-carts. Near the sum¬ mit (3 hrs.), among Alp pastmes, is the farmhouse of Auf der Plecken. Formerly the Hospice, it still serves as an Inn, and affords fair summer quarters. The pass (4600 ft.) is through portals of rock. On the S. side occur two Roman inscriptions on the rocks; the earliest attributed to Julius Csesar. The old Roman road, of which the rut-marks are still visible, diverges to rt., while the present one is carried round the steep face of the hill on the 1,, sometimes on wooden brack¬ ets. Timau (Germ. Tischlwang) is the first village below. It is one of the ancient German colo¬ nies to the S. of the Alps. Near it is a third Roman inscrip¬ tion; andbelowPaZwzza (wretched Inn) is Zuglio, the ancient Forum Julii. This valley is named St. Pietro or Bute, from its stream, and enters that of the Taglia- mento near Tolmezzo (fair Inn) 24 m. from Auf der Plecken (Rte* 250.] Light one-horse cars may be obtained at Kotschach to convey travellers down the Gailthal. Population principally Slavonic, villages few, sides of the hills M 823 Rte. 22 i,—BRUNECKEN to HEILTGENBLUT. 324 wooded. Sceueiy is finer in ap¬ proaching 22 m. Hermagor (Inn: Zum Moliren, Forster’s, small, but very com¬ fortable). A picturesquely situ¬ ated town at entrance of the Gitschtlial, named after St. Her- magoras,the first Christian Bishop ofAquileia. Opposite, S., are the fine peaks of the Gartner Kogel (7186 ft.), the N. and AV. spurs of which form tlie sole habitat of the plant “ Wulfenia." Fine view of Italian mountains from summit. [From AVeissbriach at head of the Gitschtlial the Keisskofi (7748 ft.), the most eastern peak of tlie Lienz Dolomites, can be ascended. Also a rd. crosses a low col to Greifenburg, passing the seques¬ tered Weissensee. Ete. 223.] The Dohrac (Dobratsch), a mountain near the junction of the Gail and the Drave, is a fine ob¬ ject from Hermagor, and in de¬ scending the valley the Julian Alps come nobly into sight S. 13 m. Emersdorf. [Near this vill. a rd., offering interesting scenery, strikes oft' to the back of the Dobratsch, through the mining district of Bleiberg (Inii: good) (whence the Dohratscli is best as¬ cended). It is the shortest and most picturesque route to Vil- lach, Ete. 243.] Further on the road divides. [That to rt. crosses the river to Feistritz, and leads to Maglern on the high rd. from Villach to Tarvis, Ete. 250.] Our rte. con¬ tinues on 1. bank of river and at foot of the Dobratsch till it crosses to Arnoldstein; thence skirting 9 m. a portion of tlie plain noted for the Turkish defeat in 1492, it reaches Villach (Ete. 243). 10 m Rte. 224.—BRUNECKEN to HEILIGENBLUT, by AN- THOLZ, the VALLEY of TEFEREGGEN, and the KALSER THAL. BRUNECKEN to ENG.M. HRS. NiederRasen.8 — St. Jacob, Tefereggen Thai . 24 Kals, Kaiser Thai.25 — Heiligenblut.— 7 The post-road as far as Nieder Rasen; a country road, good for light carriages, to Gassen, near the head of the Antholz valley; bridle or foot-paths the rest. By this very picturesque route, crossing two easy cols, the mag¬ nificent scenery of the Gross Glockner can from this side be most pleasantly reached by a pedestrian. From Brunecken keep the high road of the Pusterthal E. to Neunhauser; small Inn at the opening of the Antholz valley N., a short distance up which is Nieder Rasen. Eoad conti- 8 m. nues without much ascent to 325 nte. 224 :.—BRUNMCKEN to HEILIGENBLUT. 32(3 4 m. Baths of Antholz {Inn, homely\ an alkcilo-clialybeate spring, used both for bathing and drinking, and recommended for women. The snow-peaks and glaciers of the great chain can here be seen beyond the head of the valley. 2 m. Antholz Village, also called St. Walburg. (Small Inn.) 3 m. Gassen or Ohertlial: thence a 2 )ath ascends on the E. side of the Antholzer See, a small but beau¬ tiful lake embosomed in forests, to the 6 m. Tefereggen Joch (6664 ft.), the vast snowy mass of the Kiesen- ferner or Hoch Gall group lying to N. The scenery of the pass is highly picturesque, resembling the Klonthal in Glarus ; and the Descent leads by another small lake (whence the Riesenferner above is finely seen), and by the short valley of the Staller Alp, into that of Tefereggen at Erlsbach, the highest hamlet of the latter valley. [The upper portion beyond Eiisbach is called the Affenthal, and is shut in by snow mountains, over which there is a path into the Valley of Taufers (Rte. 224B). The chalets of the vallev are all t/ built of stone on account of scar¬ city of wood.] To the rt., down the Tefereg- genthal, is 7 m. St. Jacob {Inn, the Elder Basslers, best, tolerable for the situation.) [A path leads in 7 hrs. S. to Welsberg, in Pusterthal, by Ober and TJnter-Gsies, Pichl, _^and Taisten.] [Also, from St. Leonard i m. below St. Jacob, a path leads N. over a small glacier in 8 hrs. to Pregraten, in Virgenthal : a fine route to Windisch Matrei (see Rte. 224 a).] Passing St. Leonard, it is 2 1 hrs. to St. Veit {Inn: fair). 2 hrs. lower still is Hopfgarteil (Inn: tolerable), 14 m. chief j)lace of the valley; 1000 Inhab. The Tefereggen Thai, though narrow in parts, is pic¬ turesque throughout, and below St. Jacob well cultivated. A coarse dress of undyed black or brown wool used to be distinctive of the people, and is still the wonder. Most of the males be¬ come ]3edlars, travelling all over Europe with table-cloths, gloves, &c., and supplying Tyrol with the cowskin mats known as Tefereggen Decken (tliough none of these articles, it is stated, are made in the valley). They all return, if possible, to end their lives in their native valley. Below Hopfgarien it is a fine but gloomy scene of Alpine de¬ vastation, and the Tefereggen Bach descends in several small cascades. Presently The Alpen Thai opens S. [A path ascends this, and passes over by the Bockstein to the Biirglerthal, by which it reaches the Pusterthal at Mitte- wald, 8 to 10 hrs.] A fine view is displayed near village of Huben, just before en¬ tering the Isel Thai. To the rt. this val- 3 m, ley descends to Lienz (Rte. 226). [The route to Heiligenblut from M 2 327 me. ^.‘l^.—BnTJNEOKEN to JIEILIGENBLUT. 328 this point may be varied to ad¬ vantage as regards scenery, tliougli not distance, by ascend¬ ing the Iselthal N. to Windisch Matrei, 2 hrs. {Inn, Rauterer’s, excellent), and crossing over a pass E., the Matreyer Joch (7360 ft.), into the upper Kalserthal, 4^ hrs.: stiff climbing first f hr. Avoid watercourse, keep up the alp to rt., bearing round rt. till clear of forest, then 1. to what appears lowest point of the hill, where it is all smooth pasture. Summit marked by a cross. {Good alpine'plants.') View here, over surrounding mountains, is magnificent. From no other point in the Eastern Alps of so low an elevation are 3 of the mightiest masses of snow moun¬ tain so closely and so perfectly seen : the Gross Glockner is to the 1 .; the Gross Schober (11,107 ft.) to the rt.; and behind, N.W., is the Gross Venediger. Descent, I lir., is easy to find; the lower part is steep; avoid detour by Grossdorf, the upper vill. in the valley, and make direct for ch. of St. Ruprecht, near which is the Jnn.] The direct route to Heiligen- blut is up the ^ Kaiser Thai, which opens im¬ mediately opposite that of Tef- ereggen. The entrance is con¬ tracted; path up right bank, through vill. of Peischlag and thesome scenery, till at 7 m. Kals (Inn, near ch. of St. Ru¬ precht) the valley becomes more open, cultivated, and rather popu¬ lous. i hr. further is 1 m. Grossdorf {no Inn), the princi¬ pal village. The valley termi¬ nates in fiauk of Gross Glockner, seen at intervals. [^Ascent of the Gross Glockner (12,454 ft.) has been repeatedly made from Kals, and is recom¬ mended as preferable to the route from Heiligenblut; it re¬ quires, for a single traveller, 2 guides instead of 3, is i hr. shorter, and more than half less costly. 2^ hrs. to the night quarters in the Jorgenliiltte, 011 the Kodnitz Alp, affording mag¬ nificent views of the G. Glockner and of the Kodnitz glacier at its foot. Starting at 3 a.m., it is 2 brs. up the slopes to the Ked- nitz glacier, which, with rope and crampons, can be passed in i hr. In 2 hrs. more the Burgwart- scharte (very steep) is climbed to the Adlersrulie, the point passed in the ascent from Heiligenblut (Rte. 244). From the huts to the peah is 6^ hrs., exclusive of stop¬ pages. Schmell, Schmidt, Grafies, and Hut ten, to be heard of at Kals, are able and trustworthy guides. Provisions should be brought from Lienz or Windisch Matrei. (On the Burgwartscharte, more than 10,000 ft. above sea, Ranunculus glacialis and Aretia glacialis may be seen in fiower.)] \Route over the Kaiser Tauern to Uttendorf in the Pinzgau .—■ From Kals the path leads N. through Grossdorf, and by W. bank of the stream to the foot of a hill (Auf der Steige) that seems to bar all entrance to the upper Kalserthal (known as the Dorfer Aim).- The patli climbs the hill, affording a fine View of the Kast- ner glaciers, and descends to the level ground of the Aim. The last hut, affording night quarters, but no provisions, is 35 hrs. from 329 Bte. 224 :.—BRUNECKEN to HEILIGENBLVT. 330 Kals, and is opposite a fine water¬ fall on the E. side the Laimet Ko- gel. Here pasture ceases, and is succeeded by stony debris; i hr, further is the Dorfer See (6226 ft.), and 2 hrs. beyond that the Tauern (8387 ft.) is reached; crucifix on summit marks bound¬ ary between Salzburg and Tyrol. The Medels Kopf rises on the rt., and in some years there is much snow on both sides of the Col— most on the N. side. Descent is over countless blocks of rock, past, ist, a green lake, and then a white one, the Weiss See, to the SchaJ- hiiliel, a mtn. that stands between two branches of the Stubbach- thal; the path climbs this, work¬ ing to E. side of it, and coasting round, to avoid the Tauern Mo¬ rass ; passes a lake of that name, at the N. end of the morass, and ascends once more to W. of the Sclnoarz KaJir See; then over a ridge the traveller reaches the llopfbach A Ip, the highest inha¬ bited spot in the valley. This belongs to a peasant (Enzinger), who with 2 others have been named, from the extent of tlieir property, the 3 kings of Ober Pinzgau. (The W. branch of the Stubbachthal is reached by a path along W. border of tlic Weiss See and by the Schwarz See to the Hopfbach Alp.) From this point a car-road runs down the valley to TJttendorf in the Pinzgau (Etc. 230). From the Dorfer Aim to TJttendorf is 8 hrs. good walking. The scenery of this 23ass, esi)ecially on the Kai¬ ser side, is very fine, and the whole is more continuously inter¬ esting than any of the neighbour¬ ing j)asses—the Kauriser, or the Velber, over the main chain.] [Path to Windisch Matrei by the Mafreyer Jocli or Pi'asler Tauern strikes offW. from Kals: see above.] The route to Heiligenblut from Kals ascends the Berger Thai, E., keeping on its left-hand side, and steejD at first; then by side of the hill, nearly level with the Gol, which is seen o2iposite, it crosses a torrent de¬ scending from the Gross Glock- ner (here coming into view), and, immediately leaving the 2^i'iiici- pal 2oath, bears to the rt., reaching after a steep climb The Col, or Peischler Thorl^ hrs. (8766 ft.), between a spur of the Gross Glockner N., and a pro¬ longation of the Gross Schober S., forming a wild and lofty ridge, with a fine view. Thence the path descends into the Letter Thai, easy for the first hr., and then the footing becomes awkward, especially at the Katzensteig, wliere the 23ath2hrs. follows a slippery ledge, covered with broken slate, by the side of a 2:)reci23ico, whieh, however, is of no great depth. Views of the glacier by which the Gross Glockner is ascended, and of the Sennhiitten, Avhich aftbrd sleeping quarters. Path crosses the torrent, and descends through picturesque larch forests to Heiligenblut (Ete. 244.) From 2 hr.^. Windisch Matvei to this place is a hard day’s walk, as two passes have to be crossed. St. Eu- precht’s, however, affords a sleep¬ ing 2fiace. The route is delight¬ ful either way, but is perlia2)s 331 Mte. 224 k.^WINBISCH MATBEI to BBUNECKEN. 332 best appreciated travelling from W. to E. The neighbourliood of the Gross Glockner is magnifi¬ cent. The two ixisses are noted among botanists. Rte, 224 A.-WINDISCH MATREI to BRUNECKEN, by PREGRATEN and ST. JACOB. WINDISCH SIATREI to HRS. M. Pregraten.j or lo St. Jacob.8 This is an interesting variation of the preceding route. It shows the traveller the valley of Vir- gen, grand in its upper part, from its neiglibourhood to the Vene- diger Spitze, and leads him over a fine col opposite to that moun¬ tain on the S. into the Tefereg- gen Thai. From Windiscli Matrei the rd. keeps high on the N, slope to 5 m, Virgen (Inn: bcimPanzel).— The path between this and Fre- graten, ramifying through mea¬ dows and woods, is difficult to find. The car-rd. keeps still on the heights, 1 m. Ober Manern. Ch. with eurious frescoes in the interior, and a gigantic St. Christopher outside, with the date of 1468, Hitherto scenery not interesting, but it becomes very much so on ap¬ proaching Pregraten (Jwn; high charges), 4 m. directly at foot of tlie Gross Verie- diger Spitze (12,052 ft.), after the Gross Glockner the highest of the Noric chain. [The ascent of the Venediger is made without particular difficulty from this vill,, and within a day, by a good mountaineer. Bartholemy Steiner, of Pregraten, first made the ascent on this side, and acts as guide. The N. side pre¬ sents greater obstacles, but is fre¬ quently made from the Sulzbach- thal (Rte. 230),] [Above Pregraten the valley takes the name of the Umbal- thal, and a bad path, described Rte. 2 25 A, leads over a snowy ridge in 7 hrs. to Heiligengeist in the Ahrenthal, and forms another route to Brunecken. This pass is spoken of as most interest¬ ing—“ the Timblcr Joch nothing to it.’’] From Pregraten, whence it is now essential to take a guide, our route lies up the Lasnitz Thai by a wild and rugged path to the mountain ridge which separates the Virgen- thal from that of Tefereggen. The path is lost over rocks and snow in the upper part of the pass, and the Col is covered by a small glacier, rather steep, and requir¬ ing crampons, which, of a peculiar but useful shape, are universally used by the people of these valleys. Vieiv is very fine, both of the central chain N., where the Venediger Spitze is seen rising 1 out of an extensive sea of ice; 333 Rte. 224 b.—ST. JACOB to HEILIGENGEIST. 334 and S., where it commands the wdiole range of dolomite peaks which line the Pusterthal, their fantastic and picturesque forms being seen to particular advan¬ tage, (,To the immediate 1. is the tower-like peak of the Lasorling (10,158 ft.), ascended by Von Soiiklar, in 1861, with difficulty, in 62 hrs., from his night-quarters on the Lasnitzen Alp. The Mnsspitz, a little to the N, of it, is only 20 ft. higher.) The descent is down the valley of the Tegisoh, a small stream which enters the valley of Tetfereggen at St. Leonhard, which is only about I m. below 8 hrs. St. Jacob (Inns ): Ete. 224. Rte. 224 B.-ST. JACOB to HEILIGENGEIST, by the OCHSENLEUTE TAXJEIIN. ST. JACOB to Has. Col. Heiligengeist.2 Leaving St. Jacob, the Valley of Tefereggen becomes wilder, and cultivation ceases. l^hr. Bridge to 1 ., where the path to Antholz and Brunecken crosses the Scliwarzbach. Here the valley, now called the Affenthal, turns towards the N., and the path to theTauern continues along 1. bank of stream to a 2 nd Bridge, by which tlie path ] 1 hr. crosses to tlie rt. bank. At the end of another hr. there is a little climbing, the ascent hither¬ to having been very gradual, though undulating; then the valley forks, the 1. branch is taken, and just within its entrance is Jagdhaus Alp (6601 ft.), on the hr. Atfenbach, a collection of a dozen or so Alp huts, used only in sum¬ mer. The valley now circles ra¬ pidly round to the rt, northward, leaving behind it on the S. side the fine glacier of the Fleisch- bach; then the path ceases, and at a Small hut the ascent to the 1 hr. Tauern begins, with no difficulty excepting that arising from loose crumbling slate near the Summit, or Merhjocli (9279 ft.). hr.. The views hitherto have been grand only at intervals; but from the Tauern the prospect is “most glorious and sublime.” In front, and stretching west¬ ward, is the sno'w-clad range of the Zillerthal group, while the mighty Drei Herrn Spitze (11,492 ft.) is seen to the rt., partly hidden by an intervening peak. Behind, S., the view is scarcely inferior, for there the Hoch Gall (11,283 ft.) shows his untrodden snow above the immense Gross Leng- stein glacier. The Tefereggen Valley is terminated suddenly, close to the summit of the pass, 335 Bte. 225 .—BRUNECKEN to ZELL hij KRIML 33 G by a wall of granite, the clay slate resting upon it on each side. The descent into the Alirn- thal is over a glacier, too steeply inclined to be traversed without crampons, or unless tlie snow is tolerably deep. The alternative is a path round the head of the glacier, which is certainly un¬ pleasant if not dangerous. The necessity for a guide is here apparent. I2 hr. A copper-mine is passed near the bottom, and soon after on the rt, is reached, for sleeping quar¬ ters, Kasern {Inn), 515 8 ft. There is only a ch. at the neighbouring ^hr. Heiligengeist, see Ete. 225. The whole walk occupies 8^ hrs., exclusive of stoppages, to do it comfortably. Rte. 225 .—brunecken to ZELL, in ZILLER THAL, by VALLEY of TAUFEKS and the KRIMLER TAUERN. BRUNECKEN to ENG. M. HES. Taufers.10 3 Kasern, near Heiligengeist. 18 6 Kriml Inn.— 9 Zell.— 8 The valley is about m. long, v ith a good carriage-road as far as St. Valentin, near Heiligengeist. Tolerable country inns at Taufers, Steinhaus, and Kasern (near Heiligengeist), and a good one at Kriml, to wliich, from Brunecken, it is reckoned 17 or 18 hrs. This route conducts the travel¬ ler into N. Tyrol by the pass which separates the Zillerthal group from that of the Noric Alps. It abounds in striking views of the snowy chain, and leads past one of the noblest waterfalls in Europe (Kriml) at its northern foot. The Valley of Taufers, by which it is approached from the S., is the most considerable side valley of the Pusterthal, and is as interesting for its scenery, as remarkable for its populousness. The Ahren,by which it is watered, gives its name to the upper portion. Running nearly due N. from Brunecken, the rd. passes over a small open plain to St. Georg. At the entranee of 2 the valley, and the first village of importance, is Gais, 1 . bank of stream, with a 1 ch. of 9th or loth centy. S.E. on the hill is the Castle of Kehlburg, anciently belonging to the Bps. of Brixen. [The 3 IuJdbacli Thai penetrates N.E. to the snowy group of tlie Antholz Mountains; and at alx»ut ? m. distance are the Baths of Miihlbach.] From Gais the road crosses the Ahren, passes in hr. the ruins of Schloss Neuliaus, and reaches Uttenbeim, 524 Inhab., with a2 castellated mansion at further end, and a ruined fort above on 337 Rte. 225.—BRUNECKEN to ZELL hij KBIML. 338 the 1 . The next large group of cottages is 3 u). Muhlen, at entrance of the Muhlwalder Thai. [This valley stretches west¬ ward, and then turns N. to the foot of the Hoch Feil and the Moselenock, belonging to the Zillerthal chain. Lappach (4633 ft.\ the highest vill., atfords quarters for the ascent of either of those mountains. The latter can be ascended, and Ginzling in the Zemtlial reached, in 16 hrs. from Lappach. See Ete. 230.] 1 m. Taufers, or Sand in Taufers (Inns: Post, and Elephant; the former comfortable for a pedes¬ trian, and cheap), at foot of the precipitous Pursteiuwand, and ' amidst very picturesque scenery. See the view from the castle, Avhich formerly closed by a wall the further passage of the valley ; dating from the nth centy., re¬ built 148 r, and now partly in ruins, it is inhabited only by a peasant family. The Bainthal enters to the E. of Taufers. In the angle between the Ahren and the Kain are the Baths and Lnn of Winhel, said to afford good ac comniodat ion. [Tile Bainthal is well worth exploring. Its only village, St. Wolfgang, is 4 hrs. from Taufers, and opposite the entrance of the Bachernthal, E., which leads up to the Gross Lengstein gla¬ ciers, and is closed l3y a noble amphitheatre of snow mountains, the highest of which, the Hoch Gall (11,283 ft-)» is the loftiest of the Anthoiz group. The other branch of the valley above St. 'Wolfgang is the Knuttenthal, N,, by which a path crosses in 4 hrs. the Klammljoch (7605 ft.) to the Jagdhaus Alp, in the uppermost part of the Tefereggen- thal; thence it is i hr. of weari¬ some ascent and descent, and through forests of Finns cembra, to the Oherhaus Alp, from which point to St. Jacob, Kte. 224, it is 3 hrs.] On leaving Taufers, and pass¬ ing the castle, the now narrowing valley takes the name of the Ahren Thai, and becomes ro¬ mantically beautiful. It first bends towards the N.W., till at Liittach (I^in) it turns de -3 m. cidedly N.E., and becomes ex¬ tremely populous. [The Weisse 7 ibach Thai opens here W., and an interesting ex¬ cursion may be made up it ig In-, to Ch. of St. Jacob.] Houses now almost line the way, and much copper-smelting is going on. Snow mountains also come very finely in view, each small lateral valley N. breaking into the main Ziller¬ thal range. The first of these is the Trijjp Thai, N. St. Johann is the parish ch. 3 m. of the Ahren Thai; it contains pictures by Schopf. The open¬ ing of the Frank. Thcd N. is passed. Steinhaus (a good Lnn, best 3 m. sleeping-place hereabouts), at entrance of the Keil Thai, N. The IFaZZ Thai soon follows. St. Jacob. [Near this is a path m over the llorndl Joch (8365 ft.) into the Sondergrund branch of the Ziller Thai (Rte. 230).] St. Peter, ch. upon a pic- 3 ;? m 339 Bte. 225 .-~BRUNECKEN to ZELL hy KMTML. 340 turesque rock. Here the third or highest portion of the valley, now called the Prettau, is en¬ tered. 3 m. St. Valentin, 4580 ft. [A path by the WeissJcalirscharte (8481 ft.) leads into the Hundskehlgnmd branch of the Ziller Thai.] Eoad beyond this bad. Iro. Kasern, 5181 ft. [Inn: small, but recommendable), 1 m. Heiligengeist, no Inn, but a small ch., built 1455, as house of prayer for travellers over the Kriml, and to afford a burying- groimd for those who perish¬ ed. Considerable copper-mines, worked since 15 th centy., and employing 200 men, are in the neighbourhood, and the metal is also obtained by steeping old iron in the water flowing from the mines. [A highly praised but some¬ what difficult route strikes off here E., up theWindbachthal, and over a secondary ridge to Fre- (iraten in the Virgenthal, and so to Windisch Matrei. Kte. 225 a.] A guide for the Kriml may be hired among the numerous cheese-carriers employed over the pass—strike a bargain. Koad ceases at Heiligengeist; path con¬ tinues up the valley, l.-hand side. Ascent commences in 5 lir. At extremity of valley the Ahren issues from the base of the miglity Drei Herrn Spitze (11,492 ft.), so called from the “three lords,” the Counts of Tyrol and Gorz, and the Abp. of Salzburg, whose domains met at that point. Path to the Tauern is tolerably marked, bqt might easily be missed in foggy wea¬ ther. Just before reaching The Col (8994 ft.), at a point 3 hrs. marked by posts, a path to 1., and a circuit of 10 min., avoids the glacier on the other side. The vtew is very fine: below, on one hand, the vast glaciers of the Drei Herrn Spitze; on the other, the fertile vale of Taufers, and the towering head of the Hoch Gall, S.E. A spring, on the descent, of | hr. excellent water, 1. side of stream. Path turns abruptly to 1 . into the Achen Thai, and just above this, from among blasted and fallen pines, the largest glacier of the Drei Herrn presents a scene hardly surpassed for savage grandeur. Tauernhaus, a chalet, where hr. it is possible to sleep. Path continues down the valley through wild and picturesque scenery, and by 2 or 3 cascades; one of them, the Rainbach, offers a beautiful picture, having a mountain with pointed summits and flue glaciers (Reichen Sp. or Ziller Sp. ?) for background. Falls of the Ache. Fine view 2 hrs. of the Pinzgau Valley below, from eminence above the falls. These are almost unrivalled, the uppermost far tlie finest (de¬ scribed Ete. 230). About m. distant from the lower fall is Kriml (a very fair Jn?^, Kirsch-1 hr. dorfer’s; horses for hire here). For visiting the waterfalls another hr. should be added to the de¬ scent, (In reversing the route it 311 B. 225 A.—HEILIGENGEISTto WINDI 8 CHMATREL 342 is reckoned 5 hrs. to tlie Taueni- lians, 2 to the summit, 3 to Heiligengeist'). [Char-road from Kriml to Mittersill in tlie Pinz- gan, about 19 m., or 4^ lirs. to drive.] A Path, described Ete. 230, leads from the waterfall to 4 hrs. Gerlos (tolerable Inn), a long vill. in a marsh; rough bridle- track hence, 14 m., to 4 hrs. Zell, in Ziller Thai (several good Inns): see Ete. 230. Rte. 225 A. - heiligen¬ geist in the AHREN THAI to WINDISCH MATREI in the ISELTHAL. HEILIGENGEIST to hrs, Pregraten.". . . . 7 ^ '\V 9 ndisch Matrei. By this pass the traveller may continue on the S. side of tlie Noric chain, instead of crossing it by the Kriml, and by the 2 further passes (described Ete. 224), reach Heiligenblut. It offers in itself also extremely fine and interesting scenery ; use the crampons of the country. nearly lost towards the end, but a depression in the mountain- ridge, covered with smooth snow, marks the Col, or Vorder Umhalthor^ hrs. (9723 ft.), directly S. of which is the great mass of the Eiidt or Welitzspitz (11,459 ft.). This is easy to pass, but requires some care to avoid hidden crevasses. View of the grand near mass of the Drei Herrn Spitze, and of snowy peaks all round. Descent to the 1 ., over a steep slope of frozen snow—crampons needed—to a moraine, by which The main or Timbal Glacier is readied, running down into the valley. Keep on rt. of this some distance, and then strike across, descending partly on moraine, partly on ice, ^ Leave the ice for a path on i hr. hillside (grand view looking back) ; valley below, the Umbal Thai, long, narrow, and desolate. Path leaves the hillside, and i hr. crosses torrent by a bridge. Valley, now the Upper Virgen or Umbalthal, becomes very pic¬ turesque, with exquisite glimpses of distant mtns. E. Pregraten (Inn, dear, but 3 hrs. where a good dinner may be had). From here itis about lo ni. through Virgen (see Ete. 224 a) to Windisch Matrei. Inn: Eau- 3 | hrs. terer’s, excellent. Ete. 226 , From Kasern {Inn) the path goes by Heiligengeist i m., and up the Windhaclithal, E. It is ! n Rte. 226 .-'IIENZ in ths PUSTEKTHAL to MITTES- SILL in PINZGAU, by WINDISCH MATEEI and the VELBER TAUERN. LIENZ to HRS. ENG. M. Windiscli Matrei ... 6 or 17 Tauernhaus.4^^ llittersill.9.^ Cariiage-road to Wiudisch Matrei. Path over the Tauern requires a guide. The valley of the Isel, de¬ scending from the high chain in a S.E. direction, till it joins that of the Dravc at Lienz,is interest¬ ing ; its lateral valleys open up the S. side of the Noric Alps {see Rtes. 224, a, and b), and the pass at its head, crossing them about half-way between the Venediger Spitze and the Gross Glockner, displays higlily roman¬ tic scenerv. Just outside Lienz the road crosses the Isel to 1. bank, and presently enters tlie 2 m. Isel Thai, keeping by the stream, which flows fo]- some distance in a ravine. The first village is Ober Lienz, and the next 2 ni. Aineth. In 1809 the inhab. of Lienz fled for refuge to the Iseltlial, where a detachment of French was routed by the peasants, commanded by Oblasser, an innkeeper of Aineth, wlio, afterwards made prisoner, was St. Johann im Wald {Jnn). A 4 m. little flirther the Michelbacher Thai opens W. [leading to the IMarenwalder Alp, offering rare alpine plants, and a fine view"]. Presently, at Peischlach, the val¬ ley of Tefereggen opens 1 ., and 3 m. that of Kals ri. (see Etc, 224). Tiie rd. now crosses again to the 1 . bank of the Isel, and ascends tlie valley in a nearly due N. direction, mostly tlirough wood, until it enters a wide Lisin, into which the Virgen Thai opens on 1 . [Tliis 5 m. v leads up to the base of the Ve- ^ nediger, where the Isel rises, and is worth exploring. Rte. 224 a.] A sliort distance further is Windisch Matrei (Inn, Rau -1 m. terer’s, very comfortable), chief vill. of the valley, said originally io have been a Roman stat.; it Avas seized b}^ the Slovenes in the 7th centy., whence its name of Windisch. It is prettily situated '■ in a Avide basin, overlooked by 3 •; old castles ; those of Weissenstein Tupon a-dolomite rock ) and Zol- lieim are still partly habitable. The situation of this place, and its good Inn, render it of importance in the chain of routes to the S. of the Noric range— W. towards Brunecken, E. to¬ wards Heiligenblut (see Rtes. 224, 224 A, and 225 a). [The path to Kals, 35 hrs., strikes off E. immediately above the Aullage, and is continued to Heiligenblut, 7 hrs., over another ridge)] 845 Tde. 227 .—The GADER TEAL and GBODEN TEAL. 84 G The path over the Velher Tauern to the Pinzgau leads directly rip the valley, N., to village of i hr. Proseck, where it takes to tlie hill 1., as the stream there rushes from a narrow defile ; presently a fine waterfall is seen tumbling from the top of a beetling pre¬ cipice opposite, and the descent to tlie valley again is by a hracJceted timher road against the clitf, through an awful-looking gorge, with the torrent hundreds of feet below—“ a true Hohlen- tlial.” The first vill. beyond is 1 hr. Grub, where the valley takes the name of the Tauern Thai, and the Frosnitzthal comes in on the 1 . from the N.W. As¬ cending the Tauernthal the 3hrs. Tauernbaus (4956 ft.) is reached. A hovel of an Inn, supplying bread, milk, and a guide. [An excursion to the Ohere Gscldossalm, requiring 2 hrs., affords a grand glacier view of the Schlatenhees, one of the most imposing glaciers in the Eastern Alps, and of the Gross and Klein Venediger and Krystallkopfe, which dominate the show basin that feeds it.] Turning to rt. and leaving the entrance into the Gschlosstlial to 1., The ascent of the Velber Tauern commences, surrounded by glacier scenery; in summer the path is not difficult, and is much frequented, but might easily be mistaken. 8 hrs. The first Tanernhiitte. The second. 1 hr. The Tauernscharte, or sum-^ hr. mit (8023 ft.), the frontier be¬ tween Tyrol and Salzburg. Hero the path crosses snow, and almost immediately descends abruptly on the N. side into the Velher Thal\ scenery wild, rocky, and solitary. About halfway down is a remarkable Semicircular precipice, seeming to close the passage. 2 small Inns are found near the foot of , tlie pass. The second, called Schosswend, rt., is the best. The Unter Velher or Ammer Thai falls in rt. about 3 m. before entering the great valley of the Pinzgau, where, leaving the vill. of Velhen on rt., is Mittersill (Inns : Grundmer, 5 hrs. ■Bran Eeup), Rte. 230. Rte. 227 . — BEUHECKEK, through the GADER THAI (Enneberg), to CORTINA D’AMPEZZO, or by the GRO- DEN THAI to BOTZEN. BEUNECKEN to KNG. M. HRS. St. Leonhard.19 or 7^ Cortina.. . . . — 7 ST. LEONHARD to St. Ulrich, Gruden Thai . — 7 Ciistelruth.— 2 Botzen.— 5 847 Bte. 227 .—The GADER TEAL and GRODEN TEAL. 348 Chav-rds. in the lower, and bridle or cart tracks in the upper valleys; for the rest, mountain-paths. Inns small, but fairly clean. The Gader and Groden valleys are peculiarly interesting, ist ill their scenery: for they lead through, or give access to, some of the jirincipal Dolomite mountains (see Tyrol Introd.), the strange and majestic character of which, however, can only be fully appre¬ ciated by excursions rt. and 1. 2ndly, in the language of their * inhab. This is llomausch, but diifering from that spoken in the upper Orisons valleys, as it ap¬ proaches nearer to the Italian, resembling in this respect the dialect of the Lower Engadine. It is termed Ladinic, and is traced to the presence of Eoman military colonies, by which Rhoe- tia was protected and held in subjection: such were Sublabio at the mouth of the Groden Thai; Enna (Neumarkt) and Tridentum, near the entrance of the Fassa Thai; Ausugum in Val Sugana, and Litamum, at the mouth of the Gader valley. From Brunecken keep the road to Brixen for a short distance to village of 2 m. St. Lorenzen. Here the castle of Michaelsburg guards the en¬ trance to the Gader valley, which opens out due S. opposite the convent of Sonnenberg, to whose abbess much of it belonged. Litamum was near the modern village of Pflaurenz, 1. bank. Scenery of the Gader is tame in the lower part, but the rd. is picturesque, winding among dark pine-forests, and sometimes cut out of the precipitous mountain sides. Valley of Enneberg, or Ranh- 6 m. thal, is seen opening E. (The name of Enneberg is sometimes given to the whole Gader Thai.) St. Vigil, backed by a primsoval pine forest, is its highest and principal village. Certain dolo¬ mite peaks of the Ampezzo ap|)ear at its head. [There is a path from the Enneberg a little above St. Vigil, over the Ool di Latsch, into the Frags Thai: see Rte. 223.3 The road descends to Zwisehen Wasser, and passes to the flank of the Pleisherg, running at the edge of a gulf with the torrent far below, where a narrow tongue of land is seen bearing a cottage called Klein Venedig (little Venice). Pre¬ sently it reaches Picolein, opposite to which is Tlmrn, on a peninsula, the site of a village buried by a landslip; bones, &c., are often dug up. Preromanz (Pratum Ro- 5 m. manum), opposite St. Martino, and the opening of the vale of Campil, W. Presently the 4 Wengen Thai opens E., 2 m. where the inhab. are industrious and opulent. The Gader Thai now contracts to the Gorge of Pontalg, beyond which it opens into a district called the Abtei, or in Romansch Badia Thai, giving the name of Badiotes to its inhab. The village of Abtei is often called from its ch., St. Leonhard (Inn, Evange- 4 m. lista’s, close to ch,, tolerable; one fair sleeping-room with 3 beds). The traveller is now sm'romrded by dolomite mountains. The 349 nte. 227 .—The GADER TEAL and GRODEN TEAL. SSO H. Kreuzkogel, E., is, however, the only conspicuous one. The vill. is built on a slope formed of its deTris, and it threatens fur¬ ther ruin; under it, but more than looo ft. higher than St. Leonhard’s, is the small pilgrim¬ age ch. of Heiligen Kreuz, much resorted to. Beyond St. Leonhard the tra¬ veller turns E. to Cortina and the Ampezzo, or W. to the Groden Thai and Botzen. A. To Cortina. The path di¬ vides at hamlet of IJm. Muda, and turning E. along 1 . bank of stream, reaches 3 m. St. Cassian (cure’s housekeeper entertains travellers), celebrated for enormous richness in fossil shells of certain beds in the volcanic ash of its vicinity. Herr Clara, a noted collector, was for¬ merly priest of this village. [The direct path hence to Cortina lies S.E. over the Val- jpardla, and by the Tre Sassi pass under the precipices of the To- tana, about 6 hrs. The more interesting, though circuitous one, is the following.] From St. Cassian, by wet green slopes, the ridge may be climbed which separates the valley of the Gader from that of the Livin- allungo. The track passes near the fossil beds and the Prelongei Berg on the 1 ., but there is no regular path, and a guide will save time. Views from the summit, N. and S., are very fine, including the glaciers of the Marmolata. The descent (to 1.) is over undulating, frequently Iwggy slopes, till a bridle - path is reached. The scenery is especially picturesque on approaching Buchenstein or Pieve (3 41 hrs. Inns : largest, in the Piazza, fair ; Finazzers—with a shop—small but comfortable). This vilL, 5000 ft. above sea, hangs on the steep side of the hill. Fine view of tlie Sella Spitze W., and of Mte. Civita down the valley S.E,, as also of the Marmolata over ridge opposite, by climbing i hr. above village. \_Corfara, in Upper Gader Thai (good Inn), may be reached from Buchenstein over a grassy col in 3 hrs; Campedello in Upper Fassa Thai, by ascending the Livin- allungothal beyond Ai'aha, and crossing a low pass to Gries, and thence to Campedello in 5 hrs; and Caprile (fair Inn, Pezze’s), down the valley, and close to the splendid scenery of Lago Alle- gho in 2 hrs. From Caprile Agordo is 6 hrs. further down the valley, whence a good rd. 20 m. to Belluno: Cortina, E., is reached by Sta. Lucia and Mte. Gusella, 7 hrs. (an interesting pass), and Campedello in ojDposite direction by the grand gorge of Sottoguda, and fine pass of the Fedaia, 7 brs. For Caprile see Kte. 221.] From Buchenstein an umbra¬ geous terraced path with deli¬ cious views, including a distant glimpse of Lago Alleghe, is carried round the hill N.E. to Andraz (small Inn), and con- f hr. tinning up this lateral valley passes the Gastello, a singular mined £ hr. castle on an isolated dolomite rock. A stream diverted, formed once a moat on the side of access. {This place is ivrongly marhed tv|M 361 Rte. 227 .— l%e GADEB TllAL and GBODEN tHAL. 352 Buchenstein in some maijs.) Keep to rt. hand fork of valley; the ascent is picturesque to the 1 hr. Summit of the Tre Sassi Pass. (A little before this the direct path from St. Oassian has fallen in.) Hence, on the h, the lofty precipices of Mte. Lagazuoi and Mte. Tofana line the descent down the Val Costeana by pastures and woods, the Croda Malcora and Antelao showing finely in front, to 3 hrs. Cortina. Kte. 228. B. From Sf. Leonhard to Groden Thai and Botzen. m. Muda, hamlet; where path divides, take that to rt., which pursues W. branch of the valley. The vill. was once destroyed by a rockfall, 1821, which formed at the time a lake, Sompunter See, no longer existing. [To obtain a fine view of the dolomites, and shorten the dis¬ tance into the Groden Thai, a path (6 hrs.) may be taken over the Guerdenazza Plateau W. by the Crespena Joch. It starts at a point between St. Oassian and Muda (opposite side of stream, guide quite necessary) ; final part of ascent by a labyrinth ot rocky walls and terraces. Summit is a pathless desert of white rock with grand views of the neighbouring dolomites, especially S., where the Marmolata, Sella Spitze, and Lang Kofel, are successively finely displayed. At the narrow isthmus of the Joch a steep funnel-like descent leads into the Lang Thai, and past the singular Schloss Wolkenstein stuck against the face of a precipice. Lofty dolomite walls guard the exit of the Lang Thai upon the Groden valley at Sta. Maria : see below.] Stern (small Inn). Ascending 1 m. the valley beyond this, leave Col- fosco, the highest vill., on the rt., and cross stream S. to Corfara (a fair country Inn,Si m. with an otfset containing several small but clean bedrooms). The precipices of the Guerdenazza rise loftily to N. (2 hrs. from St. Leonhard.) [From summit of a partially- wooded hill, ij hr. from this Inn E., is a magnificent view —■ Marmolata with its glaciers. Sella Spitze, Guerdenazza Plateau, H. Kreuzkogl, and some of the Ampezzo dolomites, all in sight. The W. Noric Alps visible N. Cortina may be reached by a direct route (avoiding the circuit by St. Oassian) over the Alp of which this hill is a spur. It offers very fine views, but after leaving the Alp the way is very difficult to find (no path), a scramble by woods and rocks, and at last by a small tarn to the Tre Sassi, a wild scene, whence easy walking (see above) to Cor¬ tina. 8 good hrs. altogether.] Ascent of pass now begins over grass slopes between enormous buttresses of the Guerdenazza on rt., and Sella Spitze on 1 ., to the Col (6992 ft.), whence is al| hr. charming but steeper descent among clumps of Finns cemhra, under the magnificent precipices of the Sella, and with the Lang- kofel now in front, to Plan, a veiy humble Inn, butiJ hr. sufficient for night quarters. 353 Rte. 221 .—The GADER TEAL and GRODEN TEAL. 354 [Here the route to Botzen may be varied by taking a path which strikes S. over the Evas, or Fassa Joch, an easy and verdant ridge to ascend on this side between tlie Sella Spitze on L, and Lang- kofel rt. Glorious views on sum¬ mit level of the glacier side of the Marmolata. A narrow path marked by crucifixes leads with a most abrupt descent into Val Fassa at Canazei, 2| lirs. 4 hr. further is Campedello (poor Inn, Bernard’s, but better than Plan ; one fair bedroom): see Ete. 221. Hence, to reach Botzen, are 2 routes. — a. Down the valley, noted for the Rosengarten dolo¬ mites near Vigo, and for the mineralogical treasures at Pre- dazzo; then from Moena (or Vigo), by a path crossing the saddle between the Rosen¬ garten and Latemar dolomites, called the Caressa Fass, to Wal- schenhofen, and by the romantic porphyry gorges (Karneid Thai) to Botzen.— Or, h. Up the Duron Thai from Campedello, and over the Seisser Alp, amidst a grand array of dolomites, to Gastel- ruth 5 hrs., and thence as be¬ low.] The Groden Thai or Val Gar¬ dena runs E. and W. 18 m., opening at Kollman on the Eisack valley. The scenery is more picturesque than that of the Gader. Pop. 4600, occupying numerous handsome villages, mostly enq^loyed in carving cru¬ cifixes and toys from the wood of the Finns cerribra, now becoming scarce : the exports of these to the annual value of 4400Z., consigned to agencies in the principal Euro¬ pean capitals. Women work a coarse bobbin-net, and ti-avel with it themselves through Germany, Kp. Tyr. ct Alps, retaining an excellent character, and returning to marry at home. The dialect, Ladinic, a variety of Romansch, differs from that of the Gader Thai. Santa Maria, or Wolkensteiu, | hr. at entrance of Lang Thai, rt., opening between grand dolomitic walls. 5 hr. up is the curious Schloss Wolkensteiu : see above. [The path hence over the Cres- pena Joch (already described the reverse way) may be well varied on this side by turning rt. opposite the small chapel in the Lang Thai; and ascending a gully amongst fir-trees, a rough climb of 2 to 3 hrs., to a col overlooking the plateau. The descent may be made to Colfosco by the Crespena Joch, and Putz- thal, or even by a scramble down gullies to the rt. towards the Sella Spitze and into the head of the Gader Thai.] Sta. Christina (a rural Inn), | In-, the vill. on a height to rt. is passed lower down. The chateau of Fischberg, built by the Wol- kensteius, but now a farmhouse, occupies a picturesque slope 1., and the gigantic peak of the Langlcqfel (10,000 ft.j, impend¬ ing on S. side of valley, begins to show itself. This is one of the chief dolomite moun¬ tains, and deserves to be studied from the Seisser Alp : see below. From Sta. Christina inn a char- rd. begins. St. Ulrich {Inn, White Florse, 1 In-, good; Adler), principal vill. of Groden (4050 ft.). Madonna, by a pupil of Canova, in ch. Purger’s, close by, a good shoii for carvings. N 355 Rle. 221 .—The GADER TEAL and GRODEN TEAL. 350 LANGKOFEL. From St. Peter’s, below St. Ulrich. [The Groden Thai now be¬ comes a defile, with the stream and road, the latter often very steep, at the bottom. Vill. of St. Peter is seen high np to rt., and the rd. emerges be¬ neath the picturesque castle of Trostburg, belonging to the Wol- kensteins, and over a covered bridge upon the Brenner rd. (if In-, to drive down, or 3 J hrs. to walk) at Kollman (inn ); thence 15 m. to Botzen : see Rte. 217.3 The more interesting, and far more direct route for a pedestrian to Botzen, diverges from the Groden Thai at S. Ultrich, climb¬ ing the hills S. by St.Michael, to 2 hrs. Castelruth {Inns : Pas Lamme ; Rothe Rossi; both good and clean). Spengler is an in¬ telligent guide. Above the vill., on a rocky hill, is the chapel of St. Kummernitz, a female saint with a beard, granted to protect her virtue, and found effectual; it grows still on her statue. [Brenner Rd. can be reached in 1 1 hr. at Torkele; carriages there at the Inn. There is also a bridle-track to Kollman.] The Seisser Alp, famous for rare plants, and the largest and richest in Tyrol, feeding 1200 head of cattle, and yielding abundance of hay, belongs to Castelruth (Castellum Ruptum), which occupies a lower plateau of porphyry, witli numerous traces of Roman and mediaeval import¬ ance, the old Brenner rd. having formerly passed over it. [The Seisser Alp may be visited en route from St. Ulrich to Castelruth, by a path through Pufl; thence ascending its.N.W. outlier, the Puflatsch Alp (3 hrs, good walking), whence the sur¬ rounding dolomites are displayed to great advantage; the Lang- kofel, Platt Kogel, Ross Zahne, Hohe Schlern, the latter the most western member of the group, stand in a half-circle E. and S., and there is a distant view, W. and N., of 4 chains of snowy mountains, — the Ada- mello, the Orteler, the Oetzthal, and the Zillerthal portion of the Norics. (From S.E. corner of the Seisser Alp is a frequented track by the side of the Platt Kogel into the Duron Thai (fine view of the Marmolata), by which is a pictm’esque descent to Campedello at head of the Eassa Thai: see Rte. 221.) Path descends to Castelruth on W. side of the I Puflatsch.] 357 me. 22 S.—INNSBRUCK to VENICE hy AMPEZZO. 358 I lir. Seiss. Path proceeds over a pleasant cultivated plateau to¬ wards the wooded flanks of the Schlern, jutting from which ap¬ pears the fragment of Schloss Hauenstein, once the habitation of the Minnesinger Oswald Von AVolkenstein, date 1410. Beneath . it the path from Eatzes falls in, i^Ratzes Baths, 1 hr. distant, are close under precipices of the Sclilern ; homely accommodation, crowd of peasfint patients, plea¬ sant wood walks, best point for ascent of the Schlern, 4 lu’s.j The path from Eatzes leads down to Atzwang, nearest Post stat. on Brenner rd., and 9^ m. from Botzen. The more direct w^ay to Botzen for a pedestrian is by ihr. Vols, supposed to have been once a Eoman Stat. for light troops (Yelites), and down to 1 hr. Steg, where is a bridge over the Eisack to the post - road, m. from 2 ^hrs. Botzen: see Ete. 217. Rte. 228 .—INNSBRUCK to VENICE, by BRUNECKEN and PASS of AMPEZZO. INNSBRUCK to ENG. M. Mittewald . 43 J Brunecken . 25^- Niederndorf . 14^ Cortina . . ..26 Tai Cadore . 22 ENG. M. Capo dl Ponte. 26 (Belluno . , 5) Conegliano . 29 Venice (Rail) 41 L '227^ Capital carriage-road to Conegliano, thence rail (3 hrs.) to Venice. Eilwagen daily to Niederndorf, by way of Brixen. Thrice a week on to Bi-lluno, and thence daily to Conegliano. Inns of a comfort¬ able country sort. Travellers posting need not go on to Brixen, but at Mitle- wald hire for Unt Vintl, the first post stat. in the Pusterthal, This route is the only caiiiage- road through the Dolomite Mtns., several of which are finely seen between Niederndorf and Bel¬ luno. The other routes to Venice are more interesting historically; this surpasses them in scenery, which is wild and romantic. From Innsbruck, by the Bren¬ ner rd. (Ete. 217), as far as Mittewald {Inn: capital, but 43 |m. dear). Travellers hy dil. go on to Brixen, and change there into the Pusterthal dil. At fortress of Eranzenzfeste the road turns 4 m. off E., and crosses the Eisack by the Ladritsclie Briiche. [A little below this, at a si^- post to Spinges, the pedestrian can ascend the hill to that vill., with fine views, and descend thence to Miihlbach on the Pus¬ terthal road, a shorter and plea¬ santer way.] The post-road winds round E. and then N. through picturesque broken country, the road from Brixen joining it before reaching Mtihlbach (Inn: Sonne, good 4 | m. and cheap). The traveller is now in the Pusterthal. Unter Vintl {Inn: dear) is the 3 m. first post stat.; Brunecken {Inns: good) is the 14 m. 2nd; and N 2 1 359 Bte. 228 .—INNSBBUCK to VENICE hij AMPEZZO. 3 G 0 14 J m.Niederndorf {Inns: fair) tlie 3rd. (For details see Kte, 223.) The rd. now soon crosses the Kienz, issu¬ ing from the Ilohlensteinthal S., and ascends to a tract of elevated land (4150 ft.), on the other side of which the Drave takes its rise. The vill. of Toblach is seen 1 ., and at a 2 ^ in. Signpost the road turns S. to penetrate the gorge of the Eienz. (A short cut for a pedestrian leaves the road at the 2nd bridge from Niederndorf, and makes for a brewery near the Toblacher See, whicli it leaves to the rt. and rejoins the road.) Tlie Toblacher Sse is a shallow small lake, buried in woods below the rd. Tlie road keeps on the E. side, and presently enters grand portals of dolo¬ mite rock, losing siglit of the Pusterthal, and mounts through forests and fine rock scenery, where for more than a mile the Eienz runs underground, to 7 m. Landroor Hohlenstein (Inn: Post, clean and comfortable) ; solitary cluster of houses where the valley opens upon a green meadow, and a desolate tarn (Diirren See). Scenery grand and gloomy. The splintered spires of the DreiZinnen, 9831 ft. (3 battle¬ ments), seen up a gorge to 1., and in front Monte Ciistallo (10,644 ft.), fantastically jagged, and holding glaciers, both dolomite. [Up the gorged towards the Drei Zinnen, or Cime di Lava- redo, runs a path to Sexten, and another diverges rt. to Auronzo, both noted for extraordinary scenery (Ete. 2 2 8a).] Ed. formerly on E. side of the lake, but destroyed by earth- slips, is now carried by embank¬ ments on the W. At Schludersbach (Inn: small, but good), Ploner, the Wirth, is a good guide to glaciers of the Cristallo. [A path here strikes S.E., ascends a low col, and reaches, 2 hrs., the Lago Misurina ; grand dolomitic views. 2 hrs. more will bring to Cortina (see below). Another path climbs the woods rt. above Schludersbach, ascends by a striking ravine to a grassy col (6508 ft.) E. of the G-eislstein, and descends, fine views all the way, to Brags Bad, 6 hrs. (Ete. 223.)] Further on, a singular blood¬ stained dolomite, the Geislstein, or Orepa Eossa (10,281 ft.), is seen on rt., and road ascends to Ospitale, asolitary tavern, built 5 } m. as hospice, with a small chapel at side of the rd. Still ascending, there soon appears to rt. a hole in a crag above, through which the sky is seen; the summit of the Tofana comes in view front, and presently, on 1., are passed the ruins of Peutelstein Schloss, on edsreofS m. a tremendous precipice, which is worth a few minutes across the meadow 1. to visit for view down the Ampezzo, and of the wild mts. in all directions. W. is Monte Tofana (10,721 ft.) ; a glacier is seen among its precipices (first ascended by Grohmann in 1863). E. is Monte Cristallo, and on eacli side of the Ampezzo rise lofty dolomitic mts. In the distance S. certain strange sharp j^eaks belong to the Val di Zoldo. The castle, once tlie northern- 361 lite. 22S.—INNSBnUCK to VENICE hy AMPEZZO. 362 most outpost of Venetian terri¬ tory, was captured with the Ampezzo by the Emperor Maxi¬ milian, 1511. (Between Ospitale and Peutelstein, about ^ ra. be¬ fore reaching the latter, a path descends into gorge L, crosses a fearful chasm, shows well the po¬ sition of the castle, and rejoins road below it.) Beyond Peutelstein the road is carried down zigzags, and by a considerable detour (which allows time for a traveller to visit the castle, or take the path through the gorge, and rejoin his carriage at the bottom) into the Ampezzo Valley crossing the Boita, which rushes from the gorge, and forms tlie stream of the Ampezzo; scenery woody and confined till near Gm. Cortina d’Ampezzo (Inns : Aquila Nera, good; Stella d’Oro, at further end, small, but very comfortable; Post); chief vil. and centre of administration for Am¬ pezzo district, clean and flourish¬ ing. Ch., with a handsome mo¬ dern campanile of white granite ; a curious picture of Murder of Innocents has been washed over. Scenery around bare but striking. Croda Malcora, or Sorapiss (dolo¬ mite), impends, with many pin¬ nacles, to the E., and the Antelao shows like a vast obelisk lower down, with the Sasso di Pelmo, one of the most remarkable of the dolomites, opposite to it W., but not seen from Cortina. The Do¬ lomite region E. and W. affords many Excursions. a. To Logo Misurina, i^hr. to pass of Tre Croci, E. of Cortina; thence turn 1.; and on reaching lake, h., ascend summit of Mte. Plana, 5 h. beyond, for a view into the heart of the dolomite world. b. To Forcella Grande, guide necessary. From the Tre Croci ridge descend rt. to a small clear¬ ing in the wood with a shepherd’s hut (Bastian’s); here a grand rocJi amipliitlieatre opens S. in the mass of the Malcora, with a waterfall in the midst; descend further through woods, i hr., to the opening of the Val di San Vito rt., which leads up to the Forcella; here the great mass of the Marmarolo lies on the 1 ., and that of the Malcora, or Sorapiss rt. The climb is through a succession of basins and clefts, keeping on the right-hand slope to the Col (75 36 ft.), 3 i hrs. From the uppermost basin, a climb to the ridge rt, will show a glo¬ rious vieio over the Ampezzo valley to the western dolomites. From this basin it is a short ascent to the col; descent very steep down a sort of funnel to a small green promontory; noble views of the Antelao close at hand, and of the Pelmo opposite, with the whole of the lower Am¬ pezzo. From here bear rt. to a small AliJ, and descend by a short track to St. Vito, or by a longer and easier to Chiapuzza. At St. Vito is a small Inn ; have a car waiting, for the return to Cortina; take a long day. By the reverse way Chiapuzza is the best point to commence ascent. c. The above-mentioned Water- fall aftbrds a separate excursion. From the herd-huts (Bastian’s) below the Tre Croci, where it is first seen, descend through the woods to the stream, and climb up to the fall. Beyond it is a tarn (6334 ft.), 3 hrs., sublimely 363 Mte. m.—INNSBRUCK to tENlOK hy AMPEZZO. 364 situated in the heart of the Mal- cora precipices. The glen is sometimes called Val Sorapiss. Ascending this, and turning rt., brings to the Seletta Pass (8696 ft.), a difficult rock climb, and re¬ turn to Cortina may be made by the Plan della Bigontina. d. Ascent of the Sorapiss (10,858 ft.), the highest peak of the Mal- cora mass (the name is some¬ times applied to the whole), was first made by Herr Grohmann, in Sept. 1864, from the head of the Val Sorapiss, in 5 hrs., de¬ scending with great difficulty to the Forcella Grande ; a wonder¬ ful dolomitic view. e. To Schloss Peutelstein, above described; but vary route by ascending nearly to the Tre Croci, then scramble up rocks to 1 ., part of the Crepo di Sumelles (fine view from summit, of Marmolata, &c.), and descend by Val Grande, uninhabited, to Ospitale ; view of the castle in descending very picturesque. Fol¬ low road, but when near castle turn 1. into gorge, as above de¬ scribed. Several routes diverge from Cortina. [A. By Monte Gusella to Ca- prile, 7 hrs., and beautiful Lake of Alleghe, which also possesses in Monte Civita (10,438 ft.) one of the sublimest specimens of dolomite scenery. Striking view from col E., and from vill. of Sta. Lucia, of the Pelmo (Kte. 221). Caprile (fair Lin, Pezze’s) is itself a fine centre of excursions. The valley thence may be followed down to Agordo, 5 hrs. (Rte. 222 a), and through a grand ravine to Bellimo, 20 m. further, by a good rd.; or Val Fassa may be reached by the surprising gorge of Sottoguda and Fedaia Pass in 8 hrs. (Rte. 221). B. To the Gader or the Groden valleys a path leads by the side of the Tofana, and the Pass of Tre Sassi to St. Cassian, 6 hrs. (cure’s liouse), or i hr. further to St. Leonhard's (small Inn, Evan¬ gelista’s) ; thence the Gader may be descended to Brunecken, or tlie Western Dolomites explored, by way of the Grodner Joch or Guerdenazza Plateau {see Rte. 227). If, however, the traveller be bound for tlie Groden Thai, he should avoid St. Cassian alto¬ gether, striking off soon after crossing the Tre Sassi, and climb¬ ing by woods and rocky dells to the great Alp above St. Cassian, whence noble views and an easy descent to Corfara (fair Inn) at Ijead of the Gader Tlial, and foot of the Groden Joch: 8 good hrs. from Cortina. C. The pedestrian may vary his route southwards, by striking E. over the Tre Croci, and by Palu, near which is a grand view of Mte. Marmarolo, to Auronzo (2 rough Inns), which displays an exceed¬ ingly fine dolomite range (ascend a grassy hill, Monte Melons, for the view); thence 14 m. of good rd. leads to Pieve di Cadore, through romantic scenery. Inn fair at Tai, where is junction with the Ampezzo road {see Rte. 2 28 a).] Below Cortina, Zuel and Ac- quabuona are the last vills. in Tyrol; soon after The Venetian Frontier is 5 crossed. Paper money no longer taken. Country inns inferior. 365 Ute. ‘IIS.—INNSBUUCK to VJBNICE hj AMPEZZO. ^ Postmasters not always to bO trusted. 4 m. St. Vito (Inn: small, but de¬ cent), finely situated between tlie Antelao and Pelmo. Forcella Grande, as above, well taken from liere; or Forcella Piccola, leading to Pieve di Cadore between the Antelao and Melcora, whence also the ascent of the Antelao is best made. [The Antelao (10,890 ft.?) commands both Cadore and Am- pezzo, and is seen from Venice and the Adriatic. The ascent, by rather difficult rock and ice, costs, without halts, 6^ hrs.up and 5 down. Ossi, of llesinego, near Borca, is the only competent guide; ascended 1863 by Groh- mann, and in 1864 by Mr. Latham and Lord P. Douglas.] About I m. before reaching Borca, the enormous devastation caused by a landslip from the Antelao, 1814, is seen, particu¬ larly on rt., where 2 vills. were overwhelmed, and 100 persons perished. 2 m. Borca. {Inn: tolerable—2 de¬ cent bedrooms) ; best quarters for ascent either of Antelao or Pelmo. [Tlie Sasso di Pelmo (10,375 ft.), W., rises like a vast tower on all sides, but summit may be reached by a ledge and couloir requiring a good head. Above the couloir is a glacier. First ascended by Mr. Ball in 1857—6 hrs. up, 5 down. View magnifi¬ cent.] [An easy pass, Forcella Forada (6895 ft.), by side of the Pelmo, leads in 7 hrs. to Caprile ; small Inn atPescul, 4 hrs., in ValFior- entina ; thence by Sta. Lucia (Etc. 221). From Borca an interest¬ ing excursion may be made to Zoppe', romantically situated at S* base of the Pelmo," 7 m., or 3 hrs. Titian took refuge there during a pestilence in Cadore, and has left a small picture in eh. A re¬ markable dolomite, the Sasso di Bosconero, seen S.E.] Venas (Inn: tolerable). The 6 m. Cadore scenery begins to open finely. The road winds round a vast ravine, showing Antelao N., and vill. of Valle occupies a pictur¬ esque promontory over theBoita, from which the road now turns away, and ascends by long gra¬ dients over the battle-field where the Venetians defeated the troops of Einp. Max. in 1508, to Tai Cadore (Inn, Giovanni 5 m. Tommas ; plenty of rough accom¬ modation and hospitable atten¬ tion, but rooms charged higher than in Tyrol). [r m. N.E. from Tai is Pieve di Cadore, birthplace of Titian, 1477. Small town on a ridge of hill ending in a bluff, upon which are the ruins of the castle once belonging to Patriarchs of Aquileia, afterwards to the Venetian government, taken by the French 1796; otters a fine view. In the cli. is a reputed picture by Titian over a side altar belonging to the Veoelli. On the tower of the Pretura (re¬ cently modernized) is a crude portrait of the great painter, executed a few years back for the Commune. The small house in which he was born, down a lane out of the S.E. end of piazza under the castle hill, is marked by an inscription. (By a field-path from this, the high road may be regained a mile 367 Me. 22 S.-~INNSBRUCK to VENICE hj A 2 IPEZZ 0 . 368 below Tai.) Domegge, 4 m, up valley of Cadore, is said to possess a picture by Titian j)ainted for a standard. At Zoppe (see above), 13 ni. W. from Cadore (leave bigli-road at Vodo by foot-j)atli), is a small altarpiece by him ; and a fresco tliat lias been painted over remains at Sta. Lucia, near Caprile,where Titian was snowed- up one winter time. The dolomite mtns. in the neighbourhood of Cadore appear in several of the backgrounds of Titian’s pictures ; Mte. Marmarolo (8924 ft.) N.W., Mte. Cridola (8473 ft.) N.E. A good but hilly road ascends the Cadore valley, and branches off 1 . to Auronzo (see above)—a remarkable cul de sac, guarded by noble dolomite mtns.; and on the rt. leads E. through a fine gorge to Sappada, whence is a cart-track over a low pass to Forni Avoltri, and eventually to Tolmezzo on the Tagliamento. Another leads N. over the Carnic Alps to Inniclien in the Pusterthal {see Ete. 2 2 8a.)] From Tai Cadore the rd. winds round into the gorge of the Piave, and by zigzags (a short cut for pedestrians strikes oft* where rd. turns to 1. about 2 m. from Tai) descends abruptly upon o m. Perarolo {Inn : good; not the posthouse), at junction of Boita with the Piave, in a deep ravine ; busy place for the timber trade. Eavine continues for several miles between bare and riven moun¬ tains; valley widens a little at 12 m. Longarone (lum : Post, good ; Leone d’Oro). [A fine opening E. leads to Cimdais, whence are paths to the upper Tagliamento, along the E. side of the pic¬ turesque dolomite range ending N. with Cridola (8473 ft.).] It is about 14 m. from Longarone to Bellmio. Capo di Ponte. Load divides ; 9 [rt. , following the Piave, leads to Belluno. 5 m. : Ete. 233]. Ahold wooden bridge—of which the buttresses, marked by winged lion, witli date 1606, are proba¬ bly Venetian—crosses tlie Piave 90 ft. above stream, and carries road S., ascending a moderate ridge, and then skirting tlie beautiful Lago Possino (or Sta. Croce), upon which, near the S. end, is Sta. Croce (poor Inn: but 0 m. accustomed to provide dinner for travellers); rd. then climbs over an old moraine, and descends to skirt shore of a small lake, Lago Morto; desolate scenery ; 4 m, valley closes again, formerly barred by a wall, and issues through a narrow defile at Serravalle, 5350 Inliab,; re -5 m. mains of mediaeval towers up hills on either side. Ed. here enters the plains. The best inns are at Ceneda (Inns : Eosa; Post; 2 m. Aquila Nora; Leone d’Oro, the best, is at S. end of town;; con¬ siderable cathedral town. Ee- mains of good frescoes in portico of town-hall ; Euomo uninter¬ esting fine view from pilgrimage chapel on hill, or from Bishop's castle, above the town. Ed. passes through rich flat country to sea jRte. 228 A.-INNTCHEN to CADOllE hy 8 EXTEN. 370 9 m, Conegliano (Inn: Post); here liills finally subside, and rail supersedes road. A huge castle overlooks the town; remains of frescoes hy Pordenone on some house-fronts; , damaged altarpiece by Cima in the Duomo. (I’ravelling post the reverse ivay an extra borse is required between Ceneda and Santa Croce, Perarolo and Venas, Sterzing and the Brenner.) 9 m. Spresiano Slat. For this and following stations see North Italy, Rte. 222. 9 m. Treviso. 14 m. Mestre. 4 m. Venice terminus. Rte. 228 A.—INNICHEN in PUSTER THAI to PIEVE DI CADORE, by the SEXTEN THAI. INNICHEN" to M. Sexten.5 St. Stefano.17 Tai Cadore.18 A tolerable hill-road to St. Stefano, tlience excellent to Cadore. This route offers remarkable scenery in the Sexten Thai, and a fine approach to Cadore; also the shortest communication be¬ tween Eastern Tyrol and Venice. Innichen ( Inn: Zum Baren); a low hill, the last spur of the Oarnic Alps, conceals the entrance to the Sexten Thai. Upon it stood the Roman city Aguntimn, frequent¬ ly ravaged by the barbarians, and destroyed, 610, hy the Slo¬ venes ;, road winds through wood¬ ed scenery. Wildhad^ small bath¬ house, to rt. A path across meadows 1. shortens distance, and displays, up the Innerfeld- tlial a magnificent view of the Drei Schuster (10,350 ft.), Sexten (Jhu small, but fair ; 5 m. first by side of road below ch,; 2 clean bedrooms and friendly peo¬ ple ; also I or 2 hoarding-houses further on); thriving vill., in a cheerful Alpine valley. i m. beyond vill., magnificent amphi¬ theatre of dolomite mts. opens rt. up the Fischeleinthal, the prin¬ cipal of which are the Drei Schuster impending over Sexten, and Monte Fopera (10,143 ft.). Moos [patli strikes off rt. tolbni. the Fischelein or Bach Thai; near its entrance 1 . is Sexten Bad, rough, but passable for summer quarters. Thence a very fine Excursion may be made by as¬ cending tlie valley, taking a ri¬ band fork, climbing to 2 small lakes, and then crossing a col above them into the Innerfeld- thal, by which the traveller can return to Sexten, and so make the circuit of the Drei Schuster. By the other fork (the Ober Bacherthal) a pass may be made between the Patern Kogel and the Col Agnello into the Val Marson, and by this into the Auronzo Valley, 6 hrs. During 871 nie. 228 a.— mmcnm to CADORE hy 8EXTEN. 87-i the ascent “ the tremendous crags and fantastic aiguilles charac¬ teristic of the dolomites are seen in the highest perfection.”] The road now ascends by side of Monte Popera, with tine back¬ ward views, and through scattered forest, to 4^m. Summit of Pass (5360 ft.), where is a Mauthhaus, now a rude Inn, formerly place of toll; dreary spot, uo view. On the Descent, the grand dolomitic mtns. of Auronzo appear to rt., while those of Sappuda are in the distance S. The scenery becomes romantic approaching 7 m. Comelica (wine and bread at a small Inn), a populous district; 2 or 3 vills,, destroyed by fire, have been rebuilt in ugly style. A steep meadow-path saves much time down to 4 m. St. Stefano (Inn : Giraldi’s); a large Italian vill., in a fine situation, on the new road from Oadore to Sappada. [^Sappada (German, Pladen or Plon), 8 m., is an ancient German colony among fine mtns.; beyond it the rd., now only a cart- track, ascends to Cima (Orfen), another German vill., and crosses a low pass, with fine views, to Forni Avoltri {Inn: Cavallo Bianco, passable). This and Sappada are the best points whence to explore the S. side of Carnic Alps, or ascend Monte Par- alba, or Hochweissstein(8828 ft.) to the W., or Monte Cogliano (Kollin Kofel), about 9 3 00 ft., their highest peak, E. Val Sesis leads from Sappada, and Yal Degano from Avoltri, to a pass, easy on the N. side, into the Lessaeiithal; fine views from summit of pass, and magnificent from that of the Paralba, ascent of which is made in i hr. from the Col. See Rte. 223 a. The rd., very rough, descends through rich scenery to Rigolato (small Inn), and by Comeglians (Inn) to Tolmezzo, on the Tag- liamento (fair Inn) (Rte. 250). The whole route is interesting and picturesque. From Sappada an interesting Excursion may be made S. to the “ hasin ” of Sauris, 5 hrs., the most ancient of the so-called German colonies, occupying a secluded hollow in centre of Friuli. Tliere are 3 vills .—Sauris di Sopra {Inn: Neidrer’s, decent), Sauris di Sotto, and Latteis. A path leads from the “ basin” over Monte Pura (with a magnificent view down the valley of Socchieve or Tagliamento, to the Julian Alps), and enters Val Socchieve at Ampezzo, its chief town {Inn: due Columbe, pretty fair;) a good rd. thence to Tolmezzo.] Turning S.W. from St. Stefano, the road soon enters the magnifi¬ cent gorges of the Piave at the foot of Monte Cornon S., issuing into the opener Valley of Cadore. 7 m. [A rd. at this point turns off rt. through a narrow defile to Auronzo (formerly Oberrentschy. Villa Piccola, ist vill., has hand¬ some ch. and official build¬ ings ; Villa Grande, the 2nd, is a long straggling vill. (2 rough Inns beyond ch.). The valley is remarkable for a wonderful range of dolomites N., ending in the peaks of the Cime di Laveredo (the Drei Zinnen of Landro). 373 Me. 22d.—SALZBURG to INNSBRUCK. 374 Mfe. Melons, a grassy Alp S., displays a grand doloniitic pano¬ rama, inclii'ling on S. the Foppa and Monte Marmarolo. New road constructing through valley (see lltQ. 2 28).] Tre Ponti, a triple bridge, for¬ merly fortified, resting on single centre pier at junction of Auronzo stream with the Piave. Rd. crosses again by a lofty New Bridge at Pelos. [Here a road branches off E. to the large vill. of Lorenzago, and is continued for a few miles further in view of tlie great rock walls of Monte Cridola, but at jDresent ends abruptly in the forest, beyond which a path leads over the low grassy Col of Mauria (4190 ft.) to the upper valley of Tagliamento, the source of which it passes. At Forni di Sopra or Vigo (small Inn), 3 hrs. from Lorenzago, a rd. is again found descending througli the romantic valley of the Tagliamento, called Canal or Val di Soccliieve, of which Ampezzo is tlie principal place ( 2 m?, due Oolumbe), to Tol- mezzo, 30 m., and thence to Udine, 35 m., capital of Friuli.] [The hasin of Sauris (see above) may also be reached from Pelos by Laggio, and skirting along the S, base of Monte Cornon and beyond it E., until the track from Sappada is fallen in with, 5 Ill's.] 3 m. Lozzo, a busy vill. chapel of the Virgin, picturesque¬ ly placed, is passed; and on a ridge in A’ont, to which there is a long climb, is seen Pieve di Cadore, with the ruins 4 m. of its castle overhanging the deep ravine of the Piave to 1. There is but a poor Inn here, but fair quarters are met with at Tai Cadore, on the Ampezzo 1 ni. road {see Rte. 228). Rte. 229. — SALZBURG to INNSBRUCK. SALZBURG to ENG. M. Reicheiilaall . ii Waidring . 22i- Wdrgl . . Jif ENG. M Innsbruck (Rl.) J3i 922 '. The quickest route is by rly., via Rosenheim and Kufstein, in 8 hrs., Rte. 185. But where scenery is the object, and not time, the post-road is preferable. Posting, in 18 hrs., by means of Lauf- zettel (5 i), but this allows of no stop¬ pages. Best sleeping quarters are^ at Reichenhall and Waidrivg. 10 m. of Bavarian territory are crossed; baggage should be sealed at frontier, to avoid a search on re-entering Austrian terri¬ tory. 3 m. Domegge, a dirty one, with some old houses, a remnant of a Titian picture, and a large new ch. Further on, an opening in the hills E. displays a strange array of jagged dolomites; an ancient This route is for the most part through charming scenery. After leaving Salzburg (Rte. 195) the first stage lies chiefly over the plain, lUe. 229 .~SALZBVRG to INNSBIWCK 375 6 with the majestic Untersherg to the 1. 6 in. Eavarian Frontier is crossed {Douane). The road enters the Valley of the Saal, and the mountains begin to close round. ■1 m. Convent of St. Zeno 1 ., secular¬ ized in 1803, but, in 1853, jiart of it appropriated to an establish¬ ment for the education of Eng¬ lish girls; cli. is of 12th cent. Notice sculptured portal, stalls, monuments, cloisters. To rt. appear the long evaporating- houses of the salt-works. 1 m., Eeichenhall {Inns : Post, clean and comfortable; Lowen- brau ; Hohenstaufen, moderate ; also several Pensions. Achsel- mannstein, close by, W., is a frequented bathing establish¬ ment, and good Inn, much visited by N. Germans; brine-baths, and goats’ whey), a cheer¬ ful flourishing Bavarian town, chiefly rebuilt since a conflagra¬ tion in 1834. Pleasant view from the Castle ruin above. Is the centre of the Bavarian salt-works, which are constructed in some respects on a more scientific and effective principle than those of Austria. There are 18 salt-springs, 50 ft. below the siu’face, reached by a shaft. The strongest and most abun¬ dant, the Edelquelle, is per¬ haps unequalled for copiousness, giving 3300 cubic ft. in 24 hours and 200,000 cwt. of salt annually. The Brunnenliaiis contains the pumps for raising the brine, the offices, and the chapel. In the Dorngradirliduser (near the Salz¬ burg rd.) the brine is allowed to trickle through thorn faggots, by which process 4-5 ths of the water is evaporated. The Sud- liduser are the boiling-houses. Brine is brought here by a system of extraordinary hydrau¬ lic works—raising it over the mountaius—from Berchtesgaden, and carried on to Traunsteiii and Kosenheim, towns better situated for command of fuel— a total distance of 60 m. The store of fuel at Eeichenhall is enormous, and close to the town is seen one of the wooden grates (Rechen) which collect the timber cut on the mountains and ffoated down the Saal. [A good road leads E. over pass of llcdltlmrm to Berchtes¬ gaden II m., Einspanner 3 Jfl.; and another. Etc. 199, taking at first the rt. bank of the Saal, leads round by the Tauben See and Ramsau to Berchtesgaden.] The road now crosses the Saal, which it leaves for a while to ascend the Stein Pass, through most romantic scenery. Near the entrance are the ruined Castle of Carlstein, and ch. of St. Pancras, on 2 rocky heights, and a water-mill is passed where boys’ marbles are made. Pre¬ sently the Thum See, a small tarn 2 m 3100 ft. long, at foot of lofty cliff's, appears on the rt., and at Nesselgraben (where the rd. 2 m from Traunstein and Munich falls in, 185 a), the defile attains its height of grandeur. (The pipes of the brine aqueduct are seen along the clitf high above the rd.) A steep descent and a hilly rd. leads by Schneizelreit, where the valley of the Saal is again reached, to 377 878 Bte. ^‘l^.—SALZDVUG to INNSBRUCK. % 5 m. Melleck, where is the united Austrian and Bavarian Custom¬ house. (Passports wanted and baggage searched.) From the small Inn is a noble vieiv S.W, over the snowy Loferer Alp. It is a steep descent, passing- through a gateway built by an Abp. of Salzburg during the Thirty Years’ War to close the l^ass, to m. Unken (Inns : Post; Weisses Lamm), first Austrian village, burnt in 1809, when these de¬ files witnessed furious struggles between Bavarians and Tyrolese; Spechbacher, the heroic leader of the latter, was defeated at Melleck. [8 m. or 3 hrs. up the Unken- thal W. is the Seliwarzberg Klamm, extremely fine ; and hrs. further the Staubbach Fall.3 The rd., still ascending the Saal, traverses the Knie Pass between wooded mtns. before reaching 5 m, Lofer (Inns: Post; Lowe), a large village in a basin-shaped valley at foot of high mountains, the summits often clothed with snow, of which the chief is the Breitstein, S.W. [Rd. to Gastein by the Pinz- gau (see Rte. 202) turns off here. 8 m. up it and J m. to 1. is the extraordinary scene of the Seissen- herg Klamm.^ The road now quits the Saal and enters the picturesque Pass Strub (2172 ft.), the portal of Tyrol, where a now decayed archway once closed the pas¬ sage. The defile was heroically defended in 1805, when the Bavarians, who forced it, lost 1500 men, and again, in 1809, against the French. Waidring (Inn,^ Post, clean; 6| m. best between Reichenhall and Innsbruck). [The Filler See is reached by a rd. S., through a narrow gorge, and passing chapel of St. Andolar (frescoes). The lake lies W., at foot of the Breitstein. St. Ulrich, 2 hrs., is at further end. Beyond this is the Itied See, a small tarn, and the rd. descends near Fieberbrunn into the Pramau- thal, by which St. Johann on this rte. is reached. The whole is a pleasant round.] [The Ilohe Platte, N. of Waid¬ ring, may be ascended in 4 or 5 lu’s. Fine ji)anorama.~\ Hence an almost continuous descent to Erpfendorf, in valley of the 5 m. Ache, flowing N. into the Chiem See. [A rd. follows the stream to Kossen, &c.] The Achenthal is monotonous ; it is now ascended to St. Johann (Inn, Post; and 4 ^ in. another opjDOsite), a large village among meadows in a broad open valley where 3 streams unite; picturesque wooden houses. [The Pramauthal here opens S. At Fieberbrunn Margaret INIaultasch was cured of a fever, whence the name. A rd. leads thence to the Filler See: see above.] [A good carriage-rd. hence, S., ascends the valley to Kitz- biihel, and crosses Pass Thurn, Rte. 234, into the Pinzgau, Rte. 230] The rd., now leaving the Ache Valley, leads along the S. base 379 me. 2 . 2 ^ k.^WORGL to GA 8 TEIN hy MITTEBSILL. 380 of the Kaisergehirge, a picturesque rauge of dolomite mountains. 7 m. Ellmau (Inn, Post, clean; trout), on the summit-level of the road, 2839 ft. 7 m. Soli (Inn, Post), prettily situ¬ ated. The precipice of the Mosberg is N. of the road. [From this point the Hohe Salve or Salven Berg (5866 ft.), the Kigi of the lower Inn, may he ascended in 3 hrs. Guide necessary. Inn on summit where bread and wine may be had. Beds not good. A noble view—R. of the Ewige Schneegebirge; S. of the Grossglockncr and other Noric peaks ; S.W. of the Oetzthaler snow-peaks; while N., and close at hand, are the jagged and bare walls and horns of the dolomitic Kaisergebirge. May be also as¬ cended from Hopfgarten on the S.W. side (Rte. 234).] The old castle of Ittern is passed 1., and rd, descends rapidly to 7 m. Valley of the Inn, where a ch. called Gruttenherg crowns an isolated limestone rock. l^m. Worgl (Inns: Post; Lamm), stat. on liy., Rte. 2 29 a. 33 m. Innsbruck. Rte. 212. Rte. 229 A (234 in ‘S. Germ. Handbook ’).-.WdRGL, in INN THAI, to GASTEIN, by KITZ- BitHL and MITTERSILL. WORGL to ENG. M. Kitzbiihl . .19 Mittersill . .14 Gastein ENG. ir. . 481 8ii A good rd. the whole distance, and eX' cellenily engineered over Pass Thurn. A convenient carriage route between Innsbruck and Gastein, and by an excursion from IVIitter- sill atfording an opportunity of visiting the noted Kriml Falls. Worgl (seeRtes. 18 8b. and 229). Soon turning out of the valley of the Inn and keeping at first on the 1 . or S. bank of the Ache (the rd. to Salzburg following the rt. bank), the road turns S.E. to ascend the Brixen Thai. Opposite the Castle of liter the stream is crossed to reach Hopfgarten (Inn, Paulwirth), 5 m. at S.W. foot of the Ilohe Salve. At the Inn are horses for the ascent in 3 hrs. For view, &c., see Rte, 229. [The Kelchsanthal opens S. with ruins of the castle of Engels- berg at its entrance. Path from head of the valley to Wald in Pinzgau, near Kiiml.j Brixen (Inn, Gemeinde Gast -5 m. haus). Ascent of the Ilohe Salve also made from here. Close by are baths—Maria-Louisenbad— named from the Duchess of Parma. The rd. now mounts out of the valley to Spertendorf, and then descends the Spertner- 381 B.230,~-INN8BnUCK fo GASTEINhy ZILLERTEAL. 382 tlial by vill, of Ivirehberg, and presently passing a srpaU lake 1., to 9 m. Kitzbuhl {Inn: Tiefenbrnnner Hof, good), a neat little town, in the valley of the Achen, the stream flowing N. to the Ohiem Bee. A bathing establishment near is supplied from mineral springs. The range of the Kaisergebirge is seen N. (Ascent of the Kitzhuhlerliorn (6426 ft.), N.E., made in 4 or 5 hrs., offers a flue panoramic view. Chapel on summit.) (Copper-mine of Rohrer- huchel, 500 fathoms, is deepest in the globe after Monkwearmouth.) [A good carriage-rd. lienee 6 m. to St. Johann, on the way to Salzburg, Rte. 229,] The rd. now turns S., and then, crossing and recrossing the Achen before r'^aching Jochherg, by well-managed gradients climbs 10 m. Pass Thurn (4173 ft.). 'Descent is gradual and bears E. tlirough fine mountain and forest scenery into the Pinzgau at 4m. Mittersill (Inns: Grundmer, good; Bran Ruep, large and good). For Kriml 'Waterfall, distant 16 m., and for rd. down the Pinzgau to Lend, see Rte. 230: thence to Rte. 230. — INNSBRUCK to GASTEIN or SALZBURG, by the ZILLER THAI, the GER- LOS PASS, and the PINZGAU. INNSBRUCK to EXG. M. Jenbach (Rl.) 2 if Zell ... 17 Kriml . . 20 Lend ... 47 EXG. Jr. Gastein . .21 1281 Rail as far as Jenbach. Stellwapien to Zell every day, morning and evening, in hrs. (carriage with 2 horses, 8 fl.). For travellers trom the N. Brixlegg Stat. saves distance, but there is no omnibus. A bridle-path only over the Gerlos I’ass to Kriml. i-horse pars can be obtained at each vill. down the Pinzgau to Lend, on the Salzburg post-road. Jenbach to Fiigen in a carriage, li hr.; Fiigen to Zell, 2 hrs.; Zell to Gerlos on foot, 4 hrs.; Gerlos to Kriml, 4 hrs.—good sleeping-place. Kriml can be reached in I day from Jenbach, Lend the day after. The Ziller Thai is interesting chiefly for the fine Tyrolese type of its inhab. Its ujiper branches, however, which pene¬ trate to the high snowy range, are very picturesque. The Pinz¬ gau is monotonous, but much fine scenery is to bo found in the lateral valleys S., and the water¬ fall at Kriml is superb. Innsbruck, by rail, to 48 J m. Gastein. See Rte. 200. Jenbach (see Rte. i88b.). (J 7 W; 23 f m nr. stat.) The rd. thence crosses the Inn by bridge of Rotholz, and a carriage,'by a small toll, may pass through grounds of Chateau Rotholz, shortening dis¬ tance to Strass (Inns : Post, clean ; 2 m. Neuwirth, new), village at mouth of the Zillerthal. (The lime¬ stone mountain on N. side of 383 E. 230 .—INNSEEUCK to the ]-iver Inn is the Sonn- wendjoch, 8507 ft.) On the steep face of mountain forming- 1 . wall of the Zillerthal is the chapel and hermitage of Brett- fall. 2| m. Schlitters is the first vill.; then 2 } m. Fiigen (Inns: Post; Stern; Aig- ncr’s), most poi^ulous place in the valley, with a needle factory. Ch. contains some native painted carv¬ ings. Chateau of Count Ddrnhof close by, now modernized, was built by the Fugger family. The llacliWmrm, a feudal tower 4 stories high, has been replaced by an ordinary house. The per¬ formance of a musical family at one of the inns (Aigner's) is worth listening to. 2 m. Uderns (Inn) is inhabited by pedlers, who traffic in gloves, chamois leather, &c., all over the Continent. After passing through hamlets of Ried, Kaltenbach, Aschau, and Mitterndorf, a turn of the rd. shows 8m. Zell (Inns: Post, new, good house, only one with a view ; Engel, close by, is fair. Welsch- wirth, Greiderer’s, and others, in vill. over the bridge, are also good, in a rustic way). This chief village of tlie valley, 1078 Inhab., occupies both banks of the Ziller, opposite the en¬ trance to tlie Gerlosthal. 1 m. S. are the gold-inines of Ilainzen- herg, still producing small quan¬ tities. The stamping-mills are curious. The hill above the chapel of Maria East affords a view, and another is obtained by climbing to the two little chapels on the 1. side of the valley—path strikes up near the GASTEINby ZILLEETHAI. 384 Engel inn. The Gerloswand (7023 ft.) rises opposite; the Ahorn Spitze (9745 ft.) and the Tristeii Spitze (8934 ft.) fill the end of the valley S.; while the field of snow to their rt. is the Ingent Spitze, an outlier of the snowy range of the Zillerthaler groujJ. The inhab. of the Ziller Thai are chiefly pastoral. They are large built, and handsome, in¬ dustrious, and thorough ' speci¬ mens of the Tyrolese character ; immensely fond of dancing and singing, and extemporizing sati¬ rical verses. Their costume loas picturesque—it is seldom seen now—but a wedding or a festival (kirchweihe) are opportunities not to bo missed for observing man¬ ners, &c. Large nmnbers, espe¬ cially about Mayrhofen, had been secretly converted to Protest¬ antism, but after much persecu¬ tion were, in 1837, by an edict of the Tyrolese estates, expelled the country, finding an asylum by a grant of the King of Prussia in Silesia. Excursions. Above Zell the valley extends due S. 5 m. to Mayrhofen (Inns: Glaser, and Neuhaus, the latter a little off the road ; both decent). The village is § ni. further. The accommodation is not so good as at Zell, but the place better situated for Excursions, as above this the valley becomes much more interesting, and divides into 4 branches. a. The branch retaining the name of the Ziller Thai. This runs E. for about 15 m., and ends among glaciers and the grand scenei-y of the Krimler Tauem. From Mayrhofen it is^ 2^ hrs. to Brandberg, hr. to' Haisling, 885 B. 2 S 0 .—INNSBRUCK to GASTEIN hy ZILLERTHAL. 386 and moreto^w/t^e7'^i;. Here the valley divides into 3, and a path ascends hy each branch to cross the main chain into the Prettau, or Upper Ahrnthal. The easternmost branch is the Ziller- (jrund, and it is 4 good hrs. to the Joch, and 3 down to Kasern or Heiligengeist. The central one is the Hundkehlsthal, which offers a laborious pass (8481 ft.) over to St. Valentin. The third, or southernmost branch, is the Sondergrund. This pass is easier than the others, but it is full 4 hrs. to the Hdrndl Joch or Plisterer Tauern (8365 ft.), whence is a view of numberless peaks, &c. (ohs. the Krimler Tauern and the Drei Herrn Spitze). Descent is steep, 3 hrs. to St. Jacob in Ahren Thai (best sleeping-place is Steinhaus, a little further). From Heiligen- giest it is 9 hrs., and from St. Jacob’s 6 hrs. walk to Brunecken, but a char can travel below St. Jacob’s, Kte. 2 25. h. The Stilluper Thai. This opens 30 min. beyond Mayrhofen, the stream pouring down from a narrow cleft; the path ascends through woods on rt. bank. The valley turns S.E. and ends in the snows of the main chain not far from the head of the Sonder¬ grund. [Betw'een the Stilluper- thal and the ujsper Zillerthal stands the imposing Ahorn Spitze. From Mayrhofen it takes 8 or 9 hrs. for the ascent (which must be made from Brandberg), and 6 hrs. to descend. The last hr. is a difficult climb to the sum¬ mit.] c. The Zamser or Zeni Thai, well worth exploring. 15 min. from ch. of Mayrhofen cross the Ziller close to a fall, and 15 min. further the Stilluper Bach. Keep along the fields (leaving the track to the rt. which leads to the Unter Steg, and so to Finken- berg), and in 10 min. is the Hoch Steg, a covered bridge over the Zem Bach. Cross this, and, turning 1., ascend rough ground with a few houses, bearing to¬ wards the gorge of Donauberg, from which the Zem Bach issues. This gorge, dark, narrow, with a roaring stream at the bottom, may be compared with the Via Mala. Soon after entering, at a point a few yards to 1. of the path, a fine waterfall is seen. The ravine ends at the Carlsteg, 8 m. from Mayhofen; and 4 m. further is Ginzling (Inn, Hof Gross Dornau, homely). [Here the Floitenthal enters on the 1., running parallel to the Stilluper Thai, from which it is separated by a mountain ridge, of which the Tristen Spitze and the Floiteiithurm are the principal peaks. The former can be as¬ cended from Ginzling, the latter used to be celebrated for its chamois. At the head of the valley is the Ldffelspitze (11,115 ft.). The ascent is also made from Ginz¬ ling—1 1 hr. to the Baumgartner Alp, 5 hr. to glacier at head of the valley, 5 hrs. to the sum¬ mit, but the last portion of the ascent is rather dangerous. The view is more interesting than that from the Ahorn Spitze.] From Ginzling, continuing up the Zem Thai, it is 2 hrs. to the chalets of Breitlahner (where refreshment can be had). There again the valley divides : the 0 Kp. Tyr. & Alps, 887 11 . 230 .—INNSBEUCK to GASTBINhyZILLEETHAL. 388 branch to the E. is called the Zemgrund; the other, the main branch, to the W., is the Zamser Thai. [Ascending the Zemgrund, the chalets of the Schwemm Alp are reached in i hr.; here it is possible to sleep. 2 hrs. further, by a difficult path, is the Schwarz- emtein Alp, interesting to mineral¬ ogists, from which is a strildng view of the 3 great glaciers at the head of the valley. A small frozen lake, the liissee, can be reached by | hr. climb. The path from Breitlahner up the main valley, now called the Zamser Thai, becomes difficult. The glaciers of Ilinter Dux, on the N., send down a stream which makes a fine fall. Then the Ilorping Thai opens S., at the head of which are grand glaciers, and the two loftiest mountains of the. whole Ziller- thal chain. These are the Hoch Feil on the western side, and the Moselenock on the eastern. [An ascent of the MdselenocJi (11,424 ft.) was made by Mr. Tuckett and party in 1865, on their way from Lappach in the Muldwalderthal on the S. to the Zemthal. From the ridge between the Thurner Kamp and the Moselenock, a climb of 4 hrs. over tolerably easy rocks put them on the summit; view veiy fine. Descent, first to the ridge connecting with the Fm-tschlagel Spitz N., and thence under slopes of the Talgen Kogel into ihe Horpingthal, laborious and difficult. 7^ hrs. from Lappach to summit. hrs. from summit to Ginzling.3 After passing some huts and two small lakes, the track, in 7 hrs. (?) from Breitlahner, reaches the Pfitscher Joch (7358 ft.), whence the descent down the Pfitscher Thai brings the traveller in 6^ hrs. to Sterzing, on the Bren¬ ner rd.—hr. to Stein, i hr. St. Jacob, 1 hr. Kematen (good Inn), 3 hrs. to Sterzing. d. The Duxer Thai—the 4th and most western branch. Tliis is the most popular of the expe¬ ditions from Mayrhofen : 5 hrs. to Hinter Dux at the farthest l^oint. Ladies can easily go on horseback. Portions of the route are remarkably picturesque, but it may be questioned whether the upper part can compete in snowy grandeur with some of the lateral valleys of the Zem Thai. From Mayrhofen keej? iip the valley as described in last route, till the Stilluperbach is crossed, then bear to rt. 10 min. to the Unter Stev/, and ascend on the other side by a beautiful path to Finkenherg, i hr. from Mayrhofen (an old chalet Jnu, and a little fur¬ ther a new, fair-looking, country Inn, Neuwirt, 9 bed-rooms). Hero the scenery is charmingly romantic. ^ hr. beyond Finken- berg, visit by a short detour to 1 ., the Teufelsleg, a bridge 96 ft. above a turbulent torrent rushing through a narrow chasm. (The path beyond the bridge leads to the entrance of the Zemthal, and the traveller may return that way by the Hoch Steg to Mayrhofen.) Continuing up the valley, the bridle-path for a timo hangs to the steep side of the hill, a considerable height above the stream, and then crosses to 889 il. 2 S 0 .—tNNSBBUCK to GASTElN Uj ZILLERTIIAL. 390 the S. or rt. hank, where it is sliady and easy walking, to Lannershach, 2 hrs., the principal vill, of the Diixerthal, which here makes an abrupt turn S. {Inn at the second group of houses beyond the turn, rustic but clean quarters, and can supply a good dinner.) The Gefrorne Wand or Frozen Wall now comes in sight. Hinter Dux, last hamlet in the valley, is 2 hrs. further, and about 20 m. from Zell {Inn is decent, with several bedrooms ; a hot sj^ring near supplies a small bath-house). Odie scenery, wild and hare, is dignified by the impending gla¬ cier of the Gefrorne Wand, which closes the valley. The stream from this glacier forms a fine cascade hr. from the inn; a guide is desirable both for this and the glacier. A valley, called Beidentlial, W., is separated from the Duxerthal liy a low ridge, from which is superb view of tlie glaciers. From Hinter Dux there is a frequented path over the Duxer Joch (7618 ft.) (fine view) to Oher Schmirn, in 4 hrs. {Inn there extortionate.) 3 hrs. further is Siafflach, upon the Brenner rd. See life. 217.] From Zell, over the Gerlos, to Kriml and the Pinzgau. Guide unnecessary. Porter to Kriml, fl.; horse, 8 fl. From Zell the Gerlos Thai opens E. jo min. from the vill. is the Virgins Pillar. Take rt. hand rd., pass the gold-smelting works on the 1., ascend the Hainzenberg, pass chapel of St. Maria East, 20 min., belonging to the hamlet of Hainzenberg, ^ hr. beyond. near Oetschen Wirthshaus(i hr. 3 from Zell) is a fine vieio over the whole Zillerthal. (Any one bound hence to Mayrhofen will find a path from Hainzen¬ berg over the hill, saving an hr. of distance, and giving a view of the snowy chain S.) The rough track now continues through woods on a level (the Gerlos Bach deep in the gorge to 1 .), and crosses successively the Schonbach J hr., the Zaberbach J hr., and the Schwarzbach ^ hr. A vieio opens rt. of snow and glacier, and 20 min. further the Wimmach is crossed by a bridge; the path hero enters a populous Alpine valley, and i hr. further the straggling vill. of Gerlos, hrs. from Zell (two 9 Inns: Kammerhmder’s, the last large stone house at E. end of village, is the best; night quar¬ ters are better at Kriml). The path is now on the rt. bank of the Gerlos stream. The Sclionach Thai opens S., and a snow - peak now seen is the Schonacher Kees. Path is lost for a time over wet ground, and affords no view till it reaches the upper part of the valley called Durrenboden; then the Wild© Gerlosthal is seen to S., with the Eeichenspitz (10,851 ft.) and its glaciers in the distance. Passing under a timber slide and crossing the Gerlosbach, the Frontier between Tyrol and Salzburg is marked by a post, and a little further the Summit of the Pass (4716 ft.), 5 12 hr. from Gerlos, is inached, o 2 391 R. m. —INNSBRUCK io GASTEINhy ZILLERTHAL. 392 covered with vast and solitary forests. The track descends to 3rn. Konach (Jrw?, only tolerable), first vill. in the Pinzyau or val¬ ley of the Salzach. Here the carriage-rd. begins. N.W. is the Source of the Saha, whicli, after its union witli the Ache between Kriml and Wald, takes the name of Salzach. It issues from a tarn at the foot of the Geierkopf (9061 ft.). [Instead of proceeding to Konach it is far better to diverge and reach Kriml by passing over the Plattenberg. 10 min. beyond the frontier post, and between it and the summit of the pass, is a separation of roads. Take that to rt., which ascends to the pastures of the Plattenberg. A post here (J hr.) marks the path to Kriml. (From this point, by a detour of hr. to the summit of the Flatten Kogel (6658 ft.), a splendid w’eto may be obtained, including the Pinzgau, as far as Taxenbach, and the glaciers and snow smnmits of the four-cornered Drei Herrn Spitze, the Eeichen Spitz, and the Krimler Tauern. The path turns off rt. about 5 min. beyond the above-named post. 40 min, climb brings to 3 chalets, and 20 min. more to the summit. A small monument records the visit of a Prince Abp. of Salzburg in 1838.) On the descent to Kriml is a fine view of the Krimlthal, a long narrow gorge hemmed in by precipitous pine-covered mountains, with the foaming- falls which render it famous in vivid contrast to the foliage. Path descends througli a pine -wood to Kriml, 3412 ft. {Inn, Kersch- dorfer, 6 rooms with 20 beds, better than any in the Pinzgau; capital trout, guides and ponies dear), 3J hrs. from Gerlos, or 5 hrs. by the Platten Kogel, The Cataract near this village is the finest in the Eastern Al'ps, and is not excelled hy any in Switzer¬ land. Take a boy to show the way among the many paths: 18 kr. to lower fall, 35 kr. to upper. In 3 leaps the torrent of the Ache descends 2000 ft. The two lower are much broken by rocks; the upper one is an un¬ broken column of 1000 ft., and should on no account be missed. It takes about an hour to roach it from the inn, and another to climb to the top. The lower fall, ij m. from inn, can be seen in hr. there and back. The 3 falls cannot be seen at one view except from a distance. In the valley are many ferns and interesting mosses. The path up the Achen Thai and over the Krimler Tauern to the Prettau, valley of Taufers and Brunecken, 45 m, in 18 hrs., is described Rte. 225. From Kriml by a char-rd. to Wald in the Pinzgau is 4 m.] From Rcnach it is a carriage- rd. to Wald {Inn: decent), 3043 ft,,5 a poor vill. on 1 . bank of Salzach. Between 2 stones in front of the ch. the peasants squeeze them¬ selves to cure rheumatism, or used to do so. Fine view from it of glaciers of Gross Venediger. Near Wald the ruins of a castle belonging to Count Kiienberg. On S. side of the valley the Ober Sulzbachthal falls in, at en¬ trance to which is a waterfall. [At the head of the Ober Sulz- 393 E.230.--INNSBBUCK to GASTEINhy ZILLEBTHAL. 394 GROSS VENEDIGER AND THE SULZBACH VALLEYS, FROM A POINT N. OF WALD.' hacldlial are the snow-fields and glaciers of the Gross Vene- diger (12,052 ft.\ which moun¬ tain has of late been repeatedly ascended from this side. The innkeeper Bachmayer is a guide, and also Franz Scharler. In 1842 a hut was erected 3 hrs. from the summit. The mountain however is more easily and more usually ascended from Preg- raten, Ete. 224A. From this latter place Mr. Tuckett and party, in 1865, crossed by a snow pass between the Gross Vene- diger E. and Heiligengeist Kees W., into the Sulzbachthal. “ Sce¬ nery of a very high order.”] 2|m. Heukirchen (Inn, Bachmeier) (5§ hrs. walk by Kriml from Gerlos, or 4^ by Eonach). Oppo¬ site Weierhof the Ilahach Thai S. is seen closed by a glacier. Bramberg and Muhlbach are passed, and the Salzach crossed to 9 m. Hollershach, at the mouth of the Hollershach Thcd; in the background is the snow peak of the Kratzenherger Kopfl (9942 ft.). (This part of the rd. is often in ramy weather impassable for pe¬ destrians.) Mittersill, 4| hrs. from Wald 9 bi. (Inns: Brau Euep, best, large but ill-managed; Grundmer, good), chief place of the valley. Noble vzeiv from the new rd. to Kitz- biihel. The snow-covered Bern- 7 rop/(10,05 3 ft.) is seen S. Note some lines on the grave of a priest in the chyd., 1. side. Post omnibus to Zell am See 4 times a week in afternoon. [Hence S. is the very inte¬ resting but difficult path over the Velher Tauern to Windiscli Matrei, Ete. 226. Also N. the new carriage-rd. over Pass Thurn by Kitzbiihel 18 m. or 6 hrs., to Wdrgl 22 m,, Ete. 234.] The Pinzgaii now becomes 395 li. 230 .~^INNSBRUGK to GASTEIN hy ZILLEBTBAL. 396 very dreary. Much of it is marshy, the bed of the river being raised by mud and debris ; the waters are restrained by embankments, and a monument m, beyond Mittersill records the aid granted by the Emp. Francis to this end, quoting his words, “ My children, here you must be helped.” From Mittersill the rd. crosses the Salzach to the N. bank, and that from Kitzbiihel falls in. Stuhlfelden, a small vill. The Geisstein (7747ft.) N.E. maybe ascended in 4 hrs. from this; it offers a grand panorama. TJttendorf. The Stiibhacli Thai opens S. [Up this is the path leading by the Kaiser Tauern to Kals, in J2 hrs., Rte. 224.] 7Jm. Lengdorf (Inn: Oberhauser). " Here the Mulilhach Thai enters S. Its stream, in 1798, brought down torrents of mud, committing frightful ravages, traces of which are still visible about the vill. of Niedernsill at its mouth. Further on to the S. across the valley, now widening to a small plain and all more or loss marsh, is the castle of Kaprun, and near the head of the Kaiyrnner Thai are seen the peak and glaciers of the Wiesbachhorn, the highest mntn. in the ridge separating that valley from the Fuschthal. Pischliorii, a picturesque castle (view). The valley of Zell am See opens N. with a pleasing prospect of the lake and town. [The rd. by Zell am See goes by Saalfelden to Lofer, where it joins the post - rd. between Innsbruck and Salzburg : see Etes. 202 and 229.] Bruck (Inn, Von Mayer’s, 8 m. good), at junction of the Ziller- bach with the Salzach, which at times is several ft. above the former sluggish stimm. To the S. is the Fuseli Thai, [The upper part of the Fusch Thai is extremely well worth exploring, and 2 fine passes lead from it to Ileiliqenhlut. 5 m. up the valley is Fusch (Inn). Be¬ hind its ch. is a fine waterfall. (The car. can only bo taken to Embacher, J hr. beyond Fusch.) About 3 m. further a lateral valley enters 1., r hr. up which is Fuscherhad, or St. Wolfgang, fre¬ quented by 400 patients yearly. There is good but simple accom¬ modation, and a new and larger house was completed in 1863. (Tlio Grosslcopf or SchwarzJwpf, 9071 ft., E. of St. Wolfgang, may be ascended in 4 hrs. There is a magnificent view from the summit, including the Gross Glockner, and numerous snow- peaks between it and the Wies¬ bachhorn, W.—the Eauris and Gastein peaks E. — and the Steinerne Meer and other of the Salzburg mnts. N.) Eeturn- ing to the Fuschthal, at about 5 m. or 2 hrs. above Fusch, is Ferleiten, the highest hamlet in the valley (3838 ft.). Here is the Fuscher Tauernhaus (a plain Inn, but civil people). Beyond this the highest branch of the val¬ ley turning rt., the Kdfer Thai, realizes the ideal of an Aliune landscape. Into it glaciers pour their avalanches, 14 waterfalls are visible, and overlooking it is the fantastic form of the Holie Dock (10,708 ft,). 397 R. 230 .—INNSBRUCK to GASTEIN hy ZIILERTHAL. 898 Of tlie two passes to Heiligen- blut, the shorter one is by the Fuscher Tliorl, at the E. corner of the valley, reached in 4J hrs. from Eerleiten. Fine views both on ascent and from summit, from which last the G-ross Glockner first becomes visible. Then to the rt., over snow and geroll, hrs. to the Hoch Thor of the Eauriser Tauern (8464 ft.), and thence a 3 hrs. descent to Heiligenblut; total 10 hrs. (Kte. 244.) The longer pass is by the Pfandl- scharte (8816 ft.). Path continues up the valley from Eerleiten, hr., and then 2 hrs. of gradual as¬ cent lead to the chalets of the Trauner Aim. (From this point a grand view N. down the Fnsch- thal, and beyond, of the Watz- mann.) Thence in about 2 hrs. to the foot of the glacier, which is crossed in hr. Then i hr. of sharp descent and I hr. of ascent lead to the Franz-Josefshohe (8322 ft.), in front of thePasterze glacier and the Gross Glockner. (The Johann’s Hiitte is J hr. to the rt. at the foot of the Fuscherkaar- kopf.) From the Pasterze to Heili¬ genblut is 5 hrs. furl her ; total 12 hrs. A good mountaineer might take these 2 passes on successive days, and thus acquire a com- jdete view of the whole E. aspect of the Gross Glockner and its district. They are the finest of all the passes leading to Fleili- genblut. Fuscherhans, in St. Wolfgang, is a good guide. Also Erlinger, or Wintinger, who has ascended the Wiesbachhorn, and Gregor Mayer; but these 2 men are becoming old. (Near the Phindlscliarte, but between the Spillmann and the Kloben on their S. side, are the remains of a miner’s hut, and gold-worldngs (9580 ft.). In elevation they are second only to those in the Lys- thal, S. side of Mte. Eosa. See Ete. 244 for more detail.)] From Brack a capital govern¬ ment rd. runs down the now contracting valley of the Salzach : passing through Hundsdorf (good Inn) and by the Chapel of St. George, on a 2 m, hill (fine view, especially in the morning), it reaches Taxenbach {Inn, Beim Tax -5 m. wirth, better than any higher up, and not dear), the first vill. of the Lower Salzach called the Pongau, and opposite the en¬ trance of the Rauristhal, where, at its rt. hand corner, a fine waterfall, the Kitzlochfall, is to be seen i hr. from Taxenbach. [The Rauris Thai is celebrated for its gold-mines, and for the easy mule - road through its western branch and over the Rauriser Tauern, or Hoch Thor, to Heiligenblut in Carinthia. Gaishach or Rauris {Inn: Beim Brauer, best in the district), chief place in the valley, is reached in 2j hrs. from Taxenbach. hr. further the valley forks. The branch to the rt. is the Seidlwinhel. 3 hrs. up it is the Tauernhaus, a solitary chalet possible to sleep in. 1 hr. beyond, the path divides ; rt. leads into the Fuschthal, and the 1 . to Heiligenblut. 2 hrs. of steep ascent up the latter brings the traveller to the summit, or Hoch Thor (8464 ft.). There are no glaciers or precipices, and there being frequently snow the path is marked by poles. Scenery wild and grand, not beautiful; no view from col; rare plants; descent to Heiligenblut in 3 hrs. In spring of 1797 an Austrian general 1 399 Bte. 2 ^l.—S 0 NDBI 0 to BBE 8 CIA. VAL CAMONICA. 400 crossed with 4000 troops and bag¬ gage, losing only 80 men (Rte. 244). The 1 . hand or eastern brancli of the Eanris valley is called the Iluttwinlcel. At i hr. distance is Bucheben, good Inn (whence a path to Bad Gastein, 6 hrs.). A path above this leads in 3 hrs. to the gold-workings, and a stamping- mill, Im Kolben (good quarters- at the superintendent’s iiouse), near the head of tlie valley, from which there is a track over the Klein Zirknitzscliarte (8854 ft.), ascending on the E. side of the Alten Kogel, with 1 lir. over snow on the col, descending by the Klein Zirkiiitz glacier, to a lake, the Gross See, and by the Kegele See below to DoUach in the Moll Thai, 8 m. below Heiligenblut;— 5 hrs. to Dollach, 2| hrs. further to Heiligenblut. This pass offers magnificent views (Etc. 244). A shorter route from Im Kolben to Heiligenblut, is by tlie Gold- zeclier Tauern: and two other Passes lead from Im Kolben over the Goldberg chain. See Ete. 244.] j From Taxenbach to Gastein there is a path by the vill. of Bmbach, but it misses the fine gorge of the Klammstrasse. On the rd. there is a suceession of picturesque rock scenery with the river far. below, to Rte. 231 .—SONDRIO, in the VAITELimE, to BRESCIA, by the PASS of AFRICA, VAL CAMONICA, and LAGO ISEO. ‘ 60NDKI0 to ENG. M. Edolo . .31 I’isogne (Lago Jseo) . . Brescia ENG. M. . JO 95i A good carriage-rd. Diligence daily from Sondrio as far as Tresenda. Car¬ riages may be hired there for Edolo. Omnibus dally from Edolo to Brescia. A lAost charming route, hithei-to little frequented, and not well supplied with Inn accommo¬ dation. Sondrio, on the Stelvio Eoad (Etc. 214). Tresenda (Inn: miserable). Ed. 13 m. ] here turns rt., crosses the Adda, and commences ascent by two long gradients, commanding near the top, and especially from an Inn called Belvedere, magnificent | views of the valley. A little beyond the 5 m. Lend, vill. on the post-rd. from Salzburg to Gastein, and at tlie entrance of the Klammstrasse ; for description of which and re¬ mainder of route to 21 m. Gastein, see Ete. 200. Summit (405 2 ft.) is the poor 5 m. vill. of Aprica, and soon after, on open level sward, a clean large Inn is reached, good for either sleeping or dining. Tlie snowy group of the Adamello is seen in front, and the descent is gradual through the Val di Cor- teno, somewliat picturesque, and with several iron-works, till a 401 Bte. 2 '^\.—SONDBIO to BBE 8 CIA. VAL CAMONICA. 402 charming view of the Val Camo- nica opens on approaching 13 in. Edolo {Inns: Leone, tolerable; Due Mori, ntiar bridge; Post), 2293 ft., a pretty town amidst the richest scenery. The Oglio rushes through, crossed by 2 bridges, and the snowy mass of Mte. Avio impends E. Beautiful walks to Mu or to Incudine. Several ironworks in the neigh¬ bourhood. [The route by Mte. Tonale into Tyrol by the Val di Sole, and so to Trent, ascends the Val Ca- monica from Edolo (Rte. 220).] Below Edolo Indian corn fills the valley, which winds for several miles through a cleft in the moun¬ tains, the forms of which are very fine. 2 m. Bridge to the rt. bank of the Oglio. [The Val di Malga here opens on the W.; the upper por¬ tion, called Val di Miller, reaching to the Adamello. Mr. Tuckett’s party, after ascending the Adam¬ ello from Val di Genova, de¬ scended by this valley ^Kte, 220 A ).3 4 m. Eoad crosses again to 1 . bank. Val Paisco opens W. The rd. winds with the river towards the E., and at 4111. Cedegolo {Inn: pretty good) crosses to rt. bank. [FaZ Saviore hero enters from the E. The stream is in a deep gorge; pleasantest path is by Cevo on the N. slopes. About 3 m. up, the valley forks; N. branch Val Prate, S. Val d’ Adame —both pe¬ netrating to the S. flank of the Adamello. At Isola in latter valley, where the Poja comes in from S., a hovel serves for refresh¬ ment but not sleeping. Path from this climbs through very fine scenery round the S. side of Mte. Oampeglio, and above the ro¬ mantic Lago d’Arno, to the puss of Mte. Campo, and descends into Val di Fum (or Daone) (Kte, 2 20 A).] Grevo, a considerable vilh, is seen on the opposite side, and rd. crosses to E. side before reaching Capo di Ponte {Inn poor). 3 Striking scenery. A ruined cas¬ tle on a bluff opposite, and abrupt heights of Mte. Vaccio magnificent to the W. (A mule-track leads under them to Val Scalve.) Breno {Inn: Pellegrino, good), 5 principal place in the lower Val Camonica, a highly picturesque and curious old town in a cleft on a rock tlmt blocks up the valley, and leaves scarcely more than space for the river. Monte Frerone (8676 ft.), a bold granitic peak, rises to the E., and several narrow valleys penetrate in tiiat direction towards Mte. Gastello, tlie most southern of the snowy ranges. [An interesting path leads by Prestine to the Croce Domini Pass (about 6500 ft.), by which the upper valley of the Cal faro may be gained, whicli, at Bagalino (tolerable Inn), becomes extremely beautiful. Rd. thence to Lodrone, near Lago Idro (Rte. 2 2 oa'.3 The rd. crosses the Oglio, and bends round to Cividate, very picturesque on 2 all sides. The rd. now, keeping the rt. bank, enters an alluvial flat, bounded by limestone cliffs, to which two huge masses of dark- m Ilte. 2 ^\.—SOmMIOtomESCIA. VALCAMOmCA. 404 coloured porphyry in the centre of the yalley are singularly opposed. 7 m. The road divides: rt. continues onto Lovere (8 m.) and Bergamo; the 1 ,, crossing the Oglio to Darfo, is the only one that skirts the shore of Lago Iseo. [OjDposite Darfo the Val di Scalve enters from the W., one of the most important of the lateral valleys; bridle-track along the N. side. At Vihninore, 4 hrs., valley turns N.E. Scliilpario (tolerable quarters) is the chief vill. in this upper portion. From this it is 3 1 hrs. to Capo di Ponte in Val Camonica. Mte. Gleno and Mte. Venerocolo are the principal mtns. on the N. side of the upper valley, and on the E. side of the former is a patli into the Valtelline near Tresenda.] 7 m. Pisogne (Inn: Corona, Post), flouiishing little town on the Lake. Lago Iseo (627 ft. above sea) —extreme length 17 m., average width 2m.—is surrounded with landscape beauty. The mountains rise in gentle slopes, some to be¬ tween 6000 and 7000 ft.; villages, villas, and gardens adorn the shores. In the midst, where the lake widens, is a picturesque island (Mezz - Isola) Avith precipitous rocky sides. The best quarters on the lake are at [_Lovcre (Inn: Canone d’Oro), a very picturesque town, opposite Pisogne on W. shore, long the residence of Lady Wortley Mon¬ tague. See monument by Canova in family chapel of the Tadinis. The Count’s museum and gallery may also be visited. (See Hand- hook for N. Italy.) Steamer daily, leaving Lovere at 4, reaching Iseo at 5, and Sarnico, at further corner, at 6, returning thence at 10 , Diligence from Lovere to Bergamo, and omnibus twice a day between Sarnico and Palazzolo, on rail, half-way between Bergamo and Brescia.] From Pisogne the post-rd. for 5 m. is a fine construction blasted out of rock or carried on terraces over the lake. It passes through Mar one, to Sale (Inn: Posta), and by8 m. Sulzano, to Iseo (Inns: Leone d’Oro, very7 m, fair; Vapore, filthy). Ohs. in the neighbourhood the ancient moraines of the Oglio. Omnibuses twice a day to Brescia. [At the S.W. extremity of the lake stands Sarnico (Inn: Leone d’Oro, indifferent). Here the Oglio quits the lake. Carriages to Grumello Stat. on Milan Ply.] The rd. passes through a pleas¬ ing fertile country to Brescia (Inns: Albergo dTtalia; 15 Eegina dTnghilterra). See Hand- hooh-N, Italy. Rte. 231 A.-BRESCIA to EIVA, by LAGO DIDRO. BRESCIA to nxG. M. .Vestone , . 21 Storo , , ,17 Biva ENG. jr, . ^ 57 405 Bte. 231 k.—BBESCIA to BIVA 406 A carriage-rd., where night travelling should be avoided, since some of the in¬ habitants are reported mauvais sujets. The whole of this route is abun¬ dantly loicturesque, and the de¬ scent upon Riva inarYellous. From Brescia the rd, ascends for a few milesi N., then tiums E. up the Val di Garza and crosses the hills, commanding at one point a beautiful view over the Lake of Garda; then passing 17 m. Preseglie, descends into the valley of the Chiese (also called Val Sabbia) at 1 m. Earghe. ['Here following the main ]-d. down the valley, through Sabbio and Vobarno, the tra¬ veller will rcacii Salo (13 m.) on the Lago di Garda : scenery lovely. Tiie rd. makes an abrupt turn to the 1 . about 4 m. below Vobarno, and is carried on ridge of a steci) hill, with the lake and Salo below. (Inn: Gambero, good but dear; Giardino, clean and moderate.) There is a rd. by the lake to Gar- gnano, whence steamer occasion¬ ally to Riva.] Turning up the valley through tranquil scenery, 3 m. Vestone is reached, chief place in the valley. (Inn: Tre Spade, not Lecchi’s, near’ the gate.) Pass- ing Lavenonc, a picturesque vill., and through a gorge where the Chiese tumbles over rocks of red argillaceous schist, 4 m. Lago d’ Idro comes in sight, 7 m. long, I broad, 965 ft. above sea ; more Swiss in character than the other Italian lakes. The vill. of Idro lies at the S. end on the E. side; the rd. keeps on W. side. Anfo, a cluster of picturesque 3 m. old houses ; near it, on a project- mass of rock, is castle of Bocca d' Anfo, assaulted^ with much loss by Garibaldi in 1866 , and eva¬ cuated by the Austrians same night. [At N.E. end of the lake is Bondone, romantically perched on the summit of a steej) rock, nearly 1000 ft. above level of the water. The Cima Spessa beyond affords a tine View of the valley of the Chiese (wait to cross the frontier before visiting it), and path crosses the ridge of Mte. Tombea to Magasa in Val Vestino. (See below.)] Soon after leaving the lake at Lodrone, the stream of the 6 m. Calfaro forms the frontier be¬ tween Austria and Italy. Douane on either side. [The charming Val Calfaro opens W. with interesting mute to Val Camonica (Rtes. 220A and 231) ; also from Bagalino (Lnn)is a path over into Val Trompia, S. interesting in upper part, im- jDortant for ironworks in lower. Rd. thence to Brescia.] After passing through Darzo the rd. branches off rt. and crosses the Bridge over the Chiese, to enter 3 m. the narrow Val Ampola. [The rd. up the valley of the Cliiese leads into the romantic scenery of the Giudicaria and the dolomites of the Brenta Alta in Val Rendena (see Rte. 220A).] Storo (Inn: Cavallo Bianco, 1 m. clean), strikingly situated under 407 Bte. 2 ^ 2 .—IlOVEEEDO to VICENZA. 8 ETTE COAIUNL 408 precipices, and for some time head- ' quarters of Garibaldi in 1866 . The rd. ascends the limestone cleft called Val Ampola. 2 m. Fort' Ampola, a small work that delayed the Garibaldians se¬ veral days. [Near this, Val Lorina enters from S., a wild and deep glen, the path leading along the bottom, and finally ascending to a ridge between a summit called Cap- lone and Mte. Tomhea (68oo ft.), the N. face of which especially is remarkable for maiiy rare plants. The descent crosses the S. face of Mte. Tombea to Magasa (rough Inn) in Val Vestino, the upper part of a valley which lower down is called Val Toscolano: this latter is poorly inhabited, and rather tame. It issues on the Lake of Garda at vill. of Toscolano. {Inn humble, not bad.)] At the 5 m. Summit of the pass is a small pool, succeeded by marshy ground for some distance, Avhen the wide basin of the Val di Ledro opens to view, several villages are passed; at Beseca the last action between Garibaldians and Aus¬ trians was fought; and at 5 m. Pieve di Ledro {Inn, tolerable country sort) the borders of the charming Lago di Ledro are reached. The lake is 2 m. long by i m. wide (2183 ft.). It is surrounded by sloping meadows and wooded hills, with higher mountains in Anew S. After passing it, the rd. descends rapidly by the stream of the Ponale, Avhich finally fiings itself by a cascade into the Lake of Garda. At a point 700 ft. above the Avaters of the lake the rd. turns 1., and is carried for m., Avith Avonderful vicAV's beloAv, along the face of a tremendous precipice in a notch or shelf, till it reaches Eiva {Inns: Sole, good; Giar- 9 dino, cheaiier), at the N. end of the lake. (See Etc. 218.) Ete. 232 . - eoveredo to VICENZA, by the VALLE DEI SIGNORI and SCHIO, Avith EXCURSIONS to the SETTE COMUNI and the BATHS of RECOARO. KOVEREDO to eng. m. Schio.28 Vicenza.21 A stellvvagen starts daily at 4 in the morning from Roveredo for Schio, where it is in communication with another for Vicenza, arranged to meet the trains. There are no post-stations between Ro¬ veredo and Schio, but horses and car¬ riages can be hired at both those places. An extra horse is required to ascend the pass of Fugazze on either side, and 8 hr.s. are generally required from Roveredo to Schio. The rest is easy. This is the most direct route between the Italian Tyrol and Vicenza or Venice. It leads over the extremely fine pass of Fugazze, and through the romantic valley del Signori, and offers from Schio tAvo interesting excursions—to the Seite Comuni on the one hand, or to the Baths of Itecoaro on 409 me. 232 .—BOVEREDO to VICENZA. 8 ETTE C 03 IUNI. 410 the other. The former is a hold table-land occupied by a sparse and singular i^oiaulation, the latter a gay and charmingly picturesque watering-place. Roveredo. (Inn: CavalloBianco and Corona, in one; good, hut dear.') Rte. 217. The rd. enters the Val d’Arsa, traversed by the Leno, to the E. of the town ; the lower end is called alsoVal Lunga, as far as the point, | hr. from the town, where the 2 m. Val Terragnolo opens E. [Noriglio, San Nicolo, and Piazza are the principal villages of this valley; the latter is the chief l^lace, whence by liill paths the Val Astico and Sette Oomuni may he reached.] A large paper-mill is passed, and presently is seen the Chapel of St. Columhano niched against the wall of precijoice across the stream. The valley is beautiful, clothed with brush-wood, but remarkably solitary. After a long ascent Pozzachio is the first vill. that comes in sight on a height to the 1 . Soon after¬ wards, at Yalmorbia, the uppei valley opens strikingly, closed by the dolomite peaks of Recoaro. The view becomes very fine about 9 m. Raossi {Inn: small). A little beyond this, commandiiigly situated, and reached by a wind¬ ing ascent, is Chiesa, a few houses near a ch. on a hill, and chief place of the valley. It is called also Pieve cli Val d’Arsa. [A bridle-path to Recoaro here leaves our route, continuing up the valley by the vill. of Campo Silvano {Inn: tolerable), and ascending to a col in the dolomite ridge called the Campo Grosso. It descends by Marendaore into the richly wooded valley on the other side. This j^ath is inte¬ resting to the geologist. Re¬ quires a guide. (A pedestrian bound for Re¬ coaro from tlie N. may find a still more interesting path from Ala below Roveredo on the rly. (See Rte, 217.) This ascends the Val Ronchi, crosses the Colle della Lora (called also Re- velto), on the N. side of the dolo- mitic pyramid of the Cima delle tre Croci (6368 ft.), and descends to Recoaro by the vill. of Obante.) (Rte. 232 a.)] From Chiesa the ascent con¬ tinues, bearing to 1. away from the main valley. The rd. makes the circuit of a vast wooded hol¬ low, and mounts through noble scenery, passing a small osteria (which can supply coftee, wine, and bread), to the Pass of Fugazze (4560 ft .).5 111. The Frontier between Tyrol and Italy. The rd. immediately de¬ scends with numerous zigzags into the Valle dei Signori, which opens magnificently. Rocky peaks of most picturesque form pierce the clouds on the 1., and the blue plain of Italy is seen in the dis¬ tance. The valley soon becomes superbly rich in vegetation. Valle, with a fine ch., is the Cm. first vill., whence is a path W. to Recoaro, which is also gained lower down by a patli striking over the hill a little before reaching Torre Belvicino, whence the 3 | m. road is level to 411 me. 2 ^ 2 .—noVEREDOto VICENZA. SETTECOMUNl.m 2 J in. ScMo {Inns: Croce cl’Oro, good rooms, but extortionate; della Stella, fair. The inns are close together.) The town is neat and flourishing; 6000 Inhab.; a large woollen factory employs 400 hands. Passini’s Geological Mu¬ seum is a rich collection. Dr. Bologna, who accomjianied Sir lloderick Murchison, lives here, and can give information about the Sette Comuui. Low ijictur- esque hills surround the place and overlook the plain of the A^icentino. [Two bridle-paths cross the hills from Schio to llecoaro. One is that already mentioned, which leaves the rd. of the Valle dei Sig¬ nori about 4 m. above Schio, winds iqiward to the ridge, with fine views towards the head of the valley, and descends upon Ee- coaro by Kovigliana 4 hrs. The other is by Magre, Kte. 232 a.] Excursion to the Sette Comuni. This singular district may be best approached from Schio. It consists of a high table-land be¬ tween the rivers Astico and Brenta. Mean height above sea 3250 ft.; climate cold; productions Alpine. Trade in cattle, cheese, thnber, and straw-plait. It is penetrated by but one rd., which ascends from the side of the Astico, and by a few abrupt and rough paths. Asiago, Pop, 5300 , is the capital, situated nearly in the cen¬ tre. The whole mountain mass is of great geological interest (see Murchison in ‘ Geol. Journ,,’ vol. V. pt. i. 1849 ). The chief pecu- liarty of the district, however, is derived from the character of the population. The Inhab., about 40,000 in number, are Germans, divided into 7 parishes or com¬ munities, spread chiefly over the southern half of the plateau, and distinguished in language and manners, as formerly in dress, from the Italians, by whom they are surrounded. Their history, like that of all the German colo¬ nies S. of the Alps, is obscure; but their language, which is the old Suabian dialect (now gradually dying out), suggests that they are a remnant of the Suabian tribe occupying in the middle ages AYestern Tyrol and the A^orarl- berg, and which the encroaching Italians have isolated upon their bleak hill-tops. It is said to have most simihuity to the dialect spoken by the people living near tlie Scliliersee and Tegern.seo, Bavaria. The scattered thatched farmhouses and quaint villages remind the traveller of AViirtem- berg or Bavaria. The churches are becoming Italianized; that of liotzo is the most ancient. Until 1797 they formed a republic under the protection of Venice. At Schio carriages may be hired for the whole distance, about 25 m., to Asi¬ ago ; time required, 6 hrs. The rd. goes by Fiovene, G m., where it enters and crosses the Anl d’Astico, and by an extraor¬ dinary series of zigzags laid iq) the mountain side, and visible far in the plain, reaches the summit, whence over an undulating and curious country, broken by pro¬ truding rocks, like the Karst of Carniola, and barely inhabited, it descends into the basin of Asiago. The geologist will, however, find it more to his advantage to abandon this new route for the old one, and, proceeding up the valley of the Astico to Pedescala 413 Mte. 2S2 a.~BATIIS of BlJCOAEO. 414 (10 m. from Piovene), take the steep ascent to the plateau, where a succession of oolitic strata full of fossils, covered by red limestone containing ammonites, will be observed. Botzo, 3 m., is near the edge of the plateau; thence it is almost level to Eoana, 5 m. ; then the deep ravine of the river Assa has to be crossed; and 2 m. further is Asiago. {Inn: Bosco’s, just tolerable, 2 bed-rooms ; others cleaner over the way.) It is a long, straggling, and rather dirty vill. with a large new ch. There is a path, only passable in dry weather, from Asiago to Valstagna, on the Brenta, 4 hrs. ; 1 hr. over the open plain on a good rd., passing Gallio, one of the 7 communes; then 1 hr. down a stony gully, to Boso, where is a poor osteria and a small ch., pic¬ turesquely situated, for at this point both stream and path ch’op suddenly into a grand and deej) gorge, descending all the way to Valstagna, 2 hi’s., where the Brenta valley opens very finely. There is an excellent small Inn over the bridge on the high rd.; 1 hr.’s drive to Bassano. From Schio the rd., skirting a range of low hills to the W., keeps along the plain, through 5 m. Malo, to 16 ni. Vicenza. Inns: Albergo della Villa, by Torresani, best ; Bahn- liof’s Eestauration. See Hand¬ book N. Italy, Ete. 26 b. Rte. 232 A.—viCEiiZA to SCHIO, by the BATHS of RE- COASO. VICENZA to Eecoaro. , Schio ENG. M. . 20 • iJ A good rd. to the Baths, and public conveyances several times a day in about 4 hrs. A carriage and pair can be hired for 20 fr. For the bridle-path to Schio donkeys may be hired at 4 fr. each. Iravellers by rail fi’om Verona should stop at Taverntlle, where carriages wait for hire to the Baths. Eecoaro owes its attractions to the beauty of its situation — a richly wooded and elevated basin surrounded by charmingly-varied mountain forms, among which to the N. are dolomite peaks—to the celebrity of its mineral waters, to its remarkable geological fea¬ tures, and last, not least, its crowd of visitors. ^ From Vicenza the broad dusty high rd. is pursued as far as Tavernelle, where it turns to- 3 wards the foot of the hills, upon which stands the ruined castle of Mo 7 itecchio. CA bridle-i^ath as¬ cends and keeps along the hills by Castel Gomberto, thence de¬ scending into the Val d’Agno; this route will reward the geo¬ logist by its fine sections of vol¬ canic tufas of the tertiary period, especially at Montecchio and Gomberto.] Winding round to the N., the road enters tlie Val d’Agno, rich and beautiful with several villages. At m. 415 Bte. 232 a.—BATHS of BEGOAIIO. 416 10 m. Comedo, small Inn, wliere the voiturier usually halts, and a fair meal is supplied. Near Valdagno, where the rd. crosses the river, are, to the 1., mines of lignite coal, much used even as far as Padua. Beyond St. Quirico mica slate appears, the fundamental rock of these Alps. At a Bridge, by which the stream is again crossed, the straggling vill. of Recoaro appears bosomed in foliage. {Ohs. on the side of the new rd. specimens of basaltic dykes.) 7 m. Eecoaro. (Inns: Albergo di Trettenero, and many others; a large one at the Baths : also several lodging-houses; dinners provided from the hotels. Charges for a room and living at an hotel, from 6 to 8 fr. per day.) There are an Assembly and Reading- room, and plenty of horses and donkeys. The valley basin is 1500 ft. above sea; climate cool during the hot months. There are numerous shady walks among the dies- nut and walnut covered steeps, and a small chapel on a hill in centre of the basin commands a charming general view. Dolo- mitic peaks rise in a circle N. and W. to a height of 6000 ft. The Campo Grosso and Cima delle tre Croci are the most remarkable. Mte. Spiz, which appears as a sharp point rising im¬ mediately over h'ecoaro W., may be ascended in 2 hrs. The path, practicable for horses, leads up from the Ponte Regia. The View is most extensive and varied, and unsurpassed in richness. The Waters contain carbonates of lime, iron, and magnesia, with sulphate of lime, and an excess of carbonic acid; pleasant to the taste, effi¬ cacious in chronic disorders of digestive organs and liver; also, when heated and used in baths, advantageous for chronic rheu¬ matism and paralysis. There are several springs, but the principal are Ponte Regia and Ponte Lorgna, i m. W., where is the pump-room and universal morn¬ ing promenade. Season—June, July, and August. An immense quantity of the water is l^ottled and sent all over Italy. The Geology of Recoaro is well illustrated by Sir R. Murchison (‘Geol. Journ.,’ vol. v.). The lowest part of the valley consists of mica slate and red sandstone cut through by a basaltic dyke, from which intersection spring the chalybeate waters; higher up is a series of calcareous beds, and higher still oolitic limestone partly converted into dolomite. An ascent of Mte. Spiz by the ravine of the Fiege, descending by villages of Tongara and San Quirico, a day’s excursion, will well show these formations. Porphyry will also be observed at Tongara. Other Excursions for the same object may be made either to the Campo Grasso by Morendaore, or to the Tre Croci by Obante. There are 2 routes to Schio. The easiest follows the rd. to the bridge, then ascends the hill by bridle-path to vill. of Eovegliana (a picture in the 3 m. ch.), climbs the ridge, and de¬ scends through a picturesque glen with fine views of Valle dei Sig¬ nori to the 417 418 Bte. 2S3.—SCHIO to BELLUNO. 5 m. High road, which it follows through Torre Belvicino to 4 m. Schio, Kte. 232. [The other route descends from the same ridge by valley of Gli Zaccanti to vill. of Magre, and is more interesting to the geologist from the development of the ba¬ saltic rocks, and, lower down, of the melaphyres and other igneous rocks, which, decomiaosing, afford the porcelain earth largely ex¬ ported even as far as Florence. The Spizze di Schio, near Magre, is a mass of porphyry.] Rte. 233.-SCKI0 to BEL- , LTJNO, by EASSANO and “ EELTRE. SCHIO to Bassano Feltre . ENG. 11 . . 22 . . io Belluno ENG. M. . . 19 71 Good country rd. to Bassano. 2-borse carriages for 20 fr. can be hired at Schio. From Bassano 50 or 60 fr. are charged to Belluno, but the dil. for Trent takes pas¬ sengers as far as Primolano, where the postmaster supplies small carriages for Feltre or Belluno. This route leads through inte¬ resting and beautiful country, especially fine from Feltre to Bel¬ luno. It offers also an opportunity to regain the Brenner rd., or reach K]). Tyr. & Alps. Carinthia by the grand pass of the Ampezzo. From Schio the road winds among fields of rich cultivation to Tiene, 4000 Inhab. Frescoes 7 m. by P. Veronese on one of the palaces. In a few miles the rd. crosses the river A stico, descending from the mountain plateau of the Sette Comuni (Rte. 232), to the spurs of which the rd. now rises, ^s- playing rich views over the plains. Marostica, an old and pic -11 m. turesque town; the walls and towers climb the hill behind; name said to have been derived from Marius, who occupied the site. The Scaligers rebuilt it in 13th cent. Alpirms, the physician, who introduced coffee into Europe, was born here 1553; and Alvinzi was defeated by Massena 1796. The Brerita is crossed by a covered wooden bridge {fine view) at entrance of Bassano. {Inns: Sant’ Antonio ,4 m. clean; IIMondo; Luna.) See Rte. 222. Hence are 2 rds. to Feltre. [That by the grand gorge of the Brenta to Primolano, 22 m., is so far described Rte. 222. There it climbs by zigzags E., crosses the Cismone, descending from the cul de sac of Primiero, and in about 12 m. from Primolano reaches Feltre. See Rte. 222 a.] The other rte., shorter, more beautiful, but not so grand, leads by Romano, the birthplace of 2 m. Eccelino, and the centre of the earthquake of 1846, from which the district suffered much. Crespano, a clean - looking 5 m. 419 lite. 233.—SCHIO to BELLUNO. 420 town, and then hy a noble bridge of a single arch over the Astego, built by beq^nest from Canova, to 3 m. Possagno {Inn: Albergo Eossi), prettily situated; birthplace of Canova. Ch. on hill above in form of an ancient temple, designed by the great sculptor, and finished after his death, contains his tomb, an altarpiece painted by him, and a fine Pieta, a bronze copy from the original; also pictures by Palma V., Palma G., Pordenone, and L. Giordano. Canova s house (the Palazzo), now belonging to the commune, with museum at¬ tached, containing casts of ail his works, and i8 ot his pictures, is shown to strangers, amd worth a visit. \_Asolo {Inn: Trabucheli), 5 m. S. of Possagno, is a very pictur¬ esque mediasval town. The castle, with a high tower of the 13 th cent., was the residence of Cate- rina Cornaro, last Queen of Cypms, and Bembo wrote his Dialogues (Asolani) at her court. The Asolan hills form a charming district. At Maser, 2 m. from Asolo, on rd. to Cornuda, is a villa of Sig. Giacomelli, with frescoes by P. Veronese. (Daily omnibus to Treviso.)] 4 m. Pederobba is passed, and 1 m. Mulineto stands at junction with the high road from Treviso to Feltrc; here also the traveller enters the valley of the Piave, and, turning N., ascends it by the side of the stream, passing- through 4 m. Quero, and then 4 m. Sanzan, where, leaving the Piave, the rd. bends round W., passing under a monastery on a hill to rt., to reach Feltre {Inns: II Vapore, fair; 4 m. Aquila d’Oro; Stella), 4000 Inhab., in a fine situation; post-rd. runs through lower and modern town. The true Feltre, with middle-age fortifications, occupies the hill above. A square tower marks site of the castle (reached from the Piazza, and behind a ch.), wdience a fine view along the range of the Venetian Alps. In the Piazza are the Town-hall, attributed to Palladio; and a pillar, once surmounted by Lion of St. Mark, which, with its in¬ scriptions indicating Venetian su¬ premacy, was destroyed by the French. Monte di Pieta, in a street adjoining, w^as the first establishment of its kind. The rd, now turning E. ascends the broad valley of the Piave, or Val di Mel, bordered by a superb range of dolomite mtns. N., and by soft hills S. The Piave keeps close to the latter, and is not much seen. Mel stands on the other side of this stream at the foot of the Col del Moi (4465 ft.). In the new ch. is a St. Sebastian, by Titian (?). The broad stony bed of the Cordevole, coming from the N., 10 m. and in its upper course full of the finest scenery, is crossed just before reaching Brihano. The rd. then passes along a secon¬ dary wooded range of hills to 1., upon wdiich is seen a Palazzo of the Monzoni family, and pre¬ sently climbs a long and steep ascent through forests to a richly cultivated plateau, and through a handsome gateway enters Belluno {Inns: Duo Torri,9m. ' 421 Bte. 2SS.—8CHI0 to BELLUNO, 422 good; Leone d’Oro) (1254 ft.), capital of the province of that name,—Pop. 11,500,—on a pro¬ montory at junction of the Ardo with the Piave; striking situation. Charming view down Val di Mel from end of the Piazza. A fine bridge over the Piave, built in 1840, destroyed in flood, stands in ruin, the piers having given way. The Duomo was built by Palladio. Fine 'ymtwfrom its cam¬ panile (224ft.). Palazzo della Ea- gione (Town-hall) is a fine speci¬ men of Venetian architecture. A Roman sarcophagus stands in front of Gothic Oh, of St. Stephen. Country around is delightful; sketched by Titian. The best points of view are, across the Piave as at Chapel of St. Anna, or that of St. Liberale. The mtn. N. of the city is Mte. Serva (6966 ft.). [A good rd. leads 20 m. to Agordo. In about 6 m. it enters gorge of Cordevole at Mas, passing first through remains of a huge mountain slip. A large building, once a Cistercian monastery, now private property, seen 1 . The defile of the Cordevole is very fine, with glimpses of dolomite towers rt. and 1 . About a third of way up the gorge to Agordo, just before reaclnng a solitary house, La Stanga, at about 10 min. distance from rd., is a singular waterfall. The way is up a cleft, narrowing and widening, and ending in what is almost a cavern. La Stanga will aftbrd wine, bread, and stabling. The rd. in about 10 m. from Mas opens upon basin of Agordo, passing through copper-smelting works of great celebrity, where the process is unique. 2 m, further is Agordo, delightfully situated. Fair Inn in Piazza. See Rte. 222 A.] From Belluno a new rd. takes the S. side of river, but the dil. route is by the N. side, to Capo di Ponte, where it 4 m. joins the great highway which leads N. by the Ampezzo pass into Tyrol, and S. over^ the bridge which names the vill. to Conegliano, and by rail to Ve¬ nice. See Rte. 228. Diligences run daily through Cadore to Veiias, on the Tyrol frontier, meet¬ ing every other day diligences to Nie- derndorf and Brixen; dil. also daily to Conegliano. P 2 SECTION IV. ♦ STYRIA, CARINTHIA, CARNIOLA, AND GORZ. PRELIMINAllY INFORMATION. How far Alimie. — Styria : Boundaries. — Bivers. — Towns. — Forests. — Mines. — History. Caeinthia : Boundaries.—The Brave .— Mountain Banges. — Chief Towns. — Castles. — History. Carniola : Situation.—Alpine portion.—The Save.—The Karst, with Caves of Adelshurg, &c. — Population. — History. Goez : Situation, &c .—■ Character of the Valley of the Isonzo. KOTJTE COL. 240 Salzburg to Gratz, by Ischl, Aussee, Leoben, and Bruck on the Mur 429 241 Lietzen to the Monas¬ tery of Admont and to Eisenerz, by the Bass Gesduse .438 242 Linz to Gratz, hySteyer and Eisenerz . . . 440 243 Salzburg to Laibach, by the Badstadter Tauern and Klagenfurt 446 243A Klagenfurt to Krain- burg, by Kappel; or to Cilli, by the Caldron of the Steiner Alp . . A^l 244 Lienz, in the Puster- thal, through the Moll- thal, to Heiligenhlut and the Gross Glochner, and over the Rauriser Tauern to Bad Gastein 472 245 Vienna to and Bruck on the Mur . 490 246 Mariazell to Eisenerz, by Wildalpen . . .500 ROUTE COL. 247 Vienna to Gratz (Ely.), over the SemmeHng . 506 248 Gratz to Laibach and Trieste (Ply.), with Ex¬ cursions to the Quick¬ silver-mines of Idria, the Lake of Zirknitz, and the Caves of Adels- herg and Planina . .538 230 Vienna to Venice, by Judenhurg, Klagen¬ furt, Pontebba, Udine, and Treviso . . .570 251 Villach to Laibach, throngh the Valley of the Save. Excursions to Lake of Veldes and the Terglou . . .590 253 Gratz to Klagenfurt, by Marburg, and Excur¬ sion up the Lavant- thal .599 254 Trieste to Villacli, by Gorz, the Valley of the Isonzo, and the Predil Pass . . . 603 425 STYBIA. GABINTHIA. 426 The remaining Eastern portion of the Alpine region is comprised •within the limits of the 4 above- named contiguous provinces. Styria on the N. receives the subsiding masses of the Noric range which descend also into Carinthia on the S. To this latter province, however, belong more distinctively the Carnic Alps, while further S. still the Julian Alps penetrate for a short distance into Carniola, and sepa¬ rate it from the small territory of Gorz. Styria (in German Steiermarh) extends from Salzburg and the Salzkammergut on the W. to Hungary on the E. The Duchy of Austria lies along its northern border, and Carinthia bounds it on the S. It is intersected by two gTeat rivers—the Ejins and ihe Mur —which, flowing for a con¬ siderable distance parallel to each other from W. to E., turn away almost simultaneously, the Enns to the N. to fall into the Danube, the Mur to the S. to join the Drave. Between tlie two in their parallel course extends the nitn. range generally termed tiie Alps of Styria (Steierische Alpen). j''he whole province, however, with the exception of a tract to the S.E., is mountainous, the most beautiful portion being that ad¬ joining tlic Salzkammergut and inclosing the Lakes of Aussee. Through the greater part of it there are hardly any towns of im¬ portance ; these lie all on the eastern border, in or towards the plains, where are situated —Bruck on the IVIur, Gratz, the capital, also on the Mur, and one of the most noted cities in the Austrian Empire, Marhurg on the Drave, and far down in the S.E. corner, CilU. Styria is remarkable for the extent of its Forests, the beauty and grandeur of which seem to be rivalled only in Nor¬ way. They absorb much of the industry of the country, but the trade of the woodcutter {Holz- kneclit) is nevertheless subservient to that of the iron worker, for the Iron Works of Styria afford its most famous product. The prin¬ cipal mines are in the neighbour¬ hood of Eisenerz. The Styrian iron was noted even among the Eomans who highly valued the Noric swords [Noricos enses). {History). Like Salzburg Styria was part of tlie Koman Norimm. In 1192, on the failure of heirs to Ottokar VI. of Bohemia, it fell to Leopold V. of Austria, the same who imprisoned Eichard Coeur de Lion. After some varia¬ tions in sovereignty, Eudolf of Hapsburg, in 1282, attached the Duchy to his dominions, and it has belonged to the House of Austria ever since. The popula¬ tion is pure German. Carinthia (in German Karnten), unlike Styria is a very compactly shaped country, enclosed by Styria on the N. and E., and by Tyrol and Carniola on the W. and S. Its chief features are the long Valley of the Drave, with which that of the Gail is con¬ nected, bisecting the province from W. to E., and the two mtn. ranges parallel to them, the highest summits of which define respec¬ tively the N. and S. boundaries of the country. That to the N., a portion of the Noric Alps, rises towards the E. into the lofty Anko- gel, and W. into the magnificent Gross Glockner, in whicli latter Carinthia boasts of possessing one of the grandest snow-peaks of the 427 CABNIOLA. GOBZ. 428 Alps. On the S.W. the Carnic Alx>s display some striking forms, ■while the KarawanJcas, 'which compose the chief southern boun¬ dary of Carinthia, contain much ' picturesque scenery, and at their eastern end soar into the fine limestone mass of the Grintouz, Oistriza, and others enclosing the singular so called Caldron of the Steiner Alp. The Satnitz Pla¬ teau is a curious tertiary forma¬ tion, extending along a portion of the Drave, and directly S. of Klagenfurt the capital, a pleasant town occupying an elevated plain in nearly the centre of the pro¬ vince. VillacJi to the W. of this is an ancient town, and FriesacU and St. Veit to the N. have much historical interest. There are several Lakes in Carinthia, all long and narrow. The Worther See near Klagenfurt, the Ossia- cher See near Villach, and the Millstatter See near Spital, are the principal. Carinthia also derives much interest from the numerous Castle ruins which espe¬ cially abound in the neighbour¬ hood of the Drave, and which are associated with records of Turkish invasion and defeat. {History). Carinthia’s original name was Gord-tdn,ov mountain-land, given to it by the Slovenes who settled down as its possessors after the period of Barbarian invasions had ceased. It fell for a time to the Dukes of Bavaria, but presently acquired Slovenic Dukes of its own. In 1282 it was assigned to the Count of Tyrol, and in 1331, by failure of the line, came finally into the hands of the Austrian Hapsburgs. One of the most signal events in its history is the great battle of Yillach 1492, in which a great Turkish host was de¬ stroyed. There is a considerable Slovenic or Windisch population : but it has during the middle ages been encroached upon by Ger¬ mans from the N., and the Slovenes now occupy mainly the S. portions, especially parts of the Gailthal, the Satnitz plateau, and the Karawankas which are contiguous to the more Slovenic Carniola. The Inns are fair and cheap. A Bly. now traverses the pro¬ vince from Marburg on the Vienna and Trieste line through Klagenfurt to Villach, and will soon be carried farther to Lienz and Brixen, where it will unite with that now in progress over the Brenner pass. Carniola (German Krain), lying S. of Carinthia and Styria, is di¬ vided from Venetia by the narrow little territory of Gorz on the W., and is bounded on the S. and E. by the military Croatian colonies. Only the N.W. portion of it is mountainous where it is skirted by the Jidian Alps, of which the loftiest summit is the Terglou. Along the northern side of this range lies the line valley of the Save, the principal river of Car¬ niola. The pictm-esque beauty of the i 3 rovince is nearly confined to this valley; but there, espe¬ cially in its upper portion, and about the small Lake of Veldes, near the foot of the Terglou, it is very charming. Otherwise Ihe scenery is marked by the l^revalence of great tracts of bare limestone—of a lofty plateau character among the mtns., desolate and cavernous lower- down, where, in the district termed the Karst, are the famous Caves of Adelsberg and Planina, the singular Lake of Zirknitz, and the Quicksilver mines of Idria, which, with the above- 429 430 life. —SALZBURG to GRATZ. mentioned valley of tlie Save, are the principal objects of interest to the traveller in Carniola. The Inhab. are for the most part Slovenic and not prepossessing. The country Inns are inferior. Carniola derives its name from the Roman Carnia. Under diifer- ent Margraves it had various fortunes till in 1231 it became a Duchy, the Dukes of which after 1282 were Austrian, and it thus became eventually attached to the Empire. Gorz (Italian Gorizia) is a narrow slip of country, consisting only of the Valley of the Isonzo lying on the western side of the Julian Alps, which separate it from Carniola, and divided from Venetia by a lower limestone range. There is striking scenery in the upper part of the valley, where is the small town of Flitsch. Gorz, the capital, is in the lower j)ortion, almost within sight of the x\.driatic and surrounded by a pleasant landscape. The Counts of Gi’trz were at one time very powerful, possessing a great part of Tyrol and feudal rights in Carinthia. HOUTES. Rte. 240.-rrom SALZBURG to GRATZ, by ISCHL, AUSSEE, LEOBEN, and BRUCK on the Mur. SALZBURO to i EXG. M. i;xG. M. Iscbl ... 33 Leoben . . 23 Aussee ♦ . 17 Bruck . II Lietzen . 23 Gratz. . • 34 Eottenmanii. 9 — Kablwang . 26 181 Eilwagen daily from Salzburg to Rruck, a stat. on the Vienna and Trieste Ely., in hrs. Eilwagen from Salzburg to Ischl, in|7hrs. Vorspan between Giiiggl and Ilof. This route is, on the wliole, very picturesque and interesting. The rd. begins to ascend the hills at Gniggl, skirting the N. slope of the Gaisberg. From its sumrhit (4223 ft.) is an extensive panorama of lakes and mountains. (See Etc 195.) Hof {Inn, bad). Beyond, the rd. skirts the S. side of the Fuschel See, I hr. long. Fusclil, a vil. {Inn: Zum Mohren). St. Gilgen {Inn: Post, tolerably good, fish dear), at the W. extre¬ mity of the Aher or St. Wolf yang See, 2j hrs. long. Boat to St. Wolfgang, 1 1 hr., 70 kr. [A more circuitous, but more pictm’escj^ue route from Salzburg to St. Gilgen forks ofl;' at Giiiggl and through Thalgau : then skiit- ing part of the Mond See, 3 hrs. long {Lunx Lacus), and S. to St. Gilgen, The road passes within a short distance of the small town of Mondsee {Inns: Goldener Lowe; Goldene Krone) 18 m. It then runs along the S. border of the lake, and commands ex¬ quisite views. On quitting it 431 nte.m.—SALZnVBG to GHATZ. 432 there is a steep ascent, and, after passing a tarn, the lonely Kroten See, it descends upon St. Gil- gen.] On the opposite side of the lake stands before sunrise." If meat be required the visitor must take it with him, as also extra clothing for the night. The inns not opened before the beginning of July. One of the St. Wolfgang guides, ranzner, having frequently accompanied geologists, would be useful to a visitor seeking information as to fossils, &c. I t i I 1 St. Wolfgang AVeissen Rossel, the old one, host and good; Hirsch, not bad). Gothic church, of early 14th cent., with shrine of St. Wolfgang, an object of pilgrimage, and curious altar- 'piece, date 1481. Scenery, very beautiful. Finest view of the lake is from Herr Grohmann’s gardens, open only on Tuesdays and Fridays. At the Falken- stein, between St. Wolfgang and St. Gilgen, is a remarkable echo. Good fishing in lake. \Summit of the Schajhery (5836 ft., or 4056 ft. above lake), 3.^ hrs. from St. Wolfgang, com¬ mands one of the finest patto- ramas in the Eastern Alps. Close around are the bristling limestone peaks of Salzburg and of the Salz- kammergut, with its numerous azure lakes; while more distant rise the snowy mountains of the Central range. If very clear, the Gross Glockner is visible. The view has been compared witli that from the Rigi, and is not inferior to it. Like the Rigi, too, it is often in cloud, while all below is clear. Many fossils found here. An inn on the summit has lately been enlarged. Herr Grobmer, the landlord of the Weisseu Hdssel at St. Wolfgang, is the occupier, and to him application should be made for guides, mules, or tickets for prior claim to night accom¬ modation on the mountain. During the season table-d’hote (dear) is provided. There is another inn on the Ober Alp, I hr. below the top, belonging to the postmaster of St. Gilgen,^with 8 beds in 4 rooms ; but the inn on the summit is to be preferred, as saving the i hr.’s ascent The descent may be made (guide needed) in 2 hrs. down the W. slope to the road between St. Gilgen and the Mond See, not far from the Kroten See and close to Prince AVrede's schloss of Hiitten- stein.J From St. Gilgen the road pro¬ ceeds by the side of the river Ischl, through parklike scenery, to Ischl {Inns: ist rank, Bauer’s, 33 m. far the best, but very dear; Kreuz, excellent and moderate : 2nd rank, Baierischer Hof, Stern ; 3rd rank, Krone). Tlie most central point for making excur¬ sions through the Sahkammergut. (See Rte. 203.) Goisern, a Protestant commune. Beyond this village the post-rd. separates 1. from the road to Hallstatt, and parses through St. Agatha and then ascends a low pass, the Pbtshen Joch, on the summit of which, 3354 ft. (no view here), a pillar marks the boundary of Salzburg and Styria. [From the fork beyond Goi¬ sern the Hallstatt lake may be visited on the way to Aussee by making a detour of one day. Good road from Ober-Traun (Rte. 203) to Aussee.] Fine view, including the Dach- stein and its glacier. Aussee, or Augstsec (J;ms: 17 m. Eie. ‘l^Q.—SALZBVRCr to GRATZ. 434 433 Post, moderate; Hackerl, good; Blaue Traube; Johann Stiiger’s ; Sonne). Good bead-quarters for excursions, and much cheaper than Ischl, but the Inn at Alt-Aussee better as a halting-place. It is a salt-village, situated at the junc¬ tion of 3 streams, which, issuing from the lakes of Aussee, Grundl, and a tarn, the Oeden See, by their union form the river Traun. Looks like a great timber-yard. In the Spital ch. good altar- piece, date 1449. Good guides may be obtained here. Excursions to (а) Alt-Aussee, the Lahe, the Salt-mine, and the Loser Berg. — The road follows one of the branches of the Traun up a nar¬ row valley N.W., and in hr. reaches the village, and close to the lake. There is a good Inn, recently opened, by the lake, and good fish, salbling {Salmo cdpinus), to be had. Charmingly situated, and has a noble view of the Daeh- stein. The mine is beyond the lake, divided into ii levels. In the 5 th, called the Moosberg, \fisitors are admitted, and pro¬ vided with dresses at the Berg- haus. The brine is carried down in wooden pipes to the salt-pans at Aussee. From the lake the Ijoser (5799 ft.) one of the peaks of the vast plateau of the Todte- gebirge (Dead Mountains) can be ascended in 3 hrs., and olfers a magnificent view. Guides may be inquired after from the Berg- meister, Herr v. Kothberg. (б) The Grundl, Tdplitz, and Kammer Lakes. — A car - road leads for about 3 m. along the banks of another feeder of the Traun to the spot where it emerges from the first lake, the Grundl See, long and narrow, amid scenery similar in cha¬ racter but far inferior to that of the Gmunden See. Here is a tidy Inn (Erzherzog Johann, Edw. Grogger’s), not dear. Good fish, and salbling also, may be had at this inn; the latter is dear. Permission to fish may be purchased for a few florins from the renters of the water. A boat may be hired with two men to row to the other end, above 4 m., for I fl. This inn is also a plea¬ sant station from which to make excursions over the Todtegebirge. From this point cross a Wood, I m. wide, and the second lake, the Toplitz See, r m. long, comes into view. Lofty jirecipices hem it in on each side. A fishing canoe may be found on it, which, manned by a boatman brought with the traveller, will convey him to the only landing-place, which is at the farther end. Beyond is a much smaller lake, the Kammer See, only 330 ft. long, one of the sources of the Traun, in an extremely pictu¬ resque situation. It is connected with the Toplitz See by a cutting for floating timber, date 1549. Time required for the excur¬ sion from the Erzherzog Johann and the return, 4^ hrs., including the 14 hr. occupied in walking between the lakes. ' (c) The Klam {Slam'?) Alp in the Todtegehirge. —Situate about 9 m. from Aussee, E. of the Grundl See, and 2500 ft. above it. Deserves a visit on account of the extraordinary features of the rocks surrounding it. Simi¬ lar in its geological phenomena to those of the Gosauthal (Kte. 204). Notice the face of the 435 me.2iO.—8ALZBVBG to GRATZ. 43G Grossherg (about 5600 ft.). From its summit a fine View. (d) The Sarstein (6558 ft.).—• This peak may be ascended in 4.2 hrs., and offers an exquisite View. Track rough and broken. Descent 3 hrs. Guido Franz Ldtzel. (e) From the Grundl Sec ex¬ cursions may also be made to the “ Wilden Gossel; ” and to the Feuerthnkfebirge, and by the Gross Priel down to Hinter Stoder, in the Steyerthal. (See Ete. 242.) Leaving Aussee, the next sta¬ tion is 10 m. Mitterndorf {Inn: Post, good). The road winds under the preci¬ pices (tf the Grimming (7697 ft.) to the rt., and, after descend¬ ing through striking scenery and passing the remains of an old moraine, it enters the broad Ennsthal. [A post-road as¬ cends the 1 . bank of the Enns to Eadstadt (Ete. 243). Beyond, it leads by St. Johann to Salz¬ burg, to G a stein, and into the Pinzgau.] 9 m. Steinacli {Inn, Post, small and homely). The road passes thi’ough a picturesque and fertile district, enlivened by castles in ruins, and inhabited chateaux, to 9m. Lietzen {Inns: Post; Stan- ziger’s), a large village. Vieiv from tlie Calvarienberg of the Giimming. [A post-road branches off at this point N. to Windischgarsten; another E. to Admont and its Monastery, and beyond by the romantic pass Gesause and Hie- flau, to the celebrated iron district of Eisenerz (Ete. 241.)] Crossing the Enns and leaving it, the route ascends the Fatten that, commanded at its entrance by Schloss Strechau. View from it fine. Rottenmann {Inn, Post, com- 9 m. fortable and roomy), a small town. Trieben. Large iron-forges be-8 m. longing to the Admont monas¬ tery. |)Here a post-road forks off S. over the Eottenmanner Tauern to Unzmarld, in the Murthal (Ete. 250), and thence S. through Neumarkt to Friesach in N. Carinthia (Ete. 250). From Trie- ben it is 12 m. to St. Johann in the upper Polsthal, a tidy little inn; 20 m. farther to St. Geor- gen, and theuco to Unzmarkt about 3 m.(j Gaishorn {Inn, Post) opposite 5 m. to a lake out of which fiows the Palten Bach. Col, the second Eottenmanner 7 m. Tauern of that name (5000 ft.). Inn here. Kahlwang, on the Lisingbach 6 m. {Inn, Post). The Admont mon¬ astery possesses copper - mines here. Timmersdorf. 13 m. Murthal. First village, St. 5 m. Michael. Leoben {Inns: Goldener Ad- 5 m. ler ; Kaiser von Oesterreich in the great square; Zum Mohren, clean and good), the most considerable 437 Me. m.—LlETZEN to EI8ENEBZ. 438 town ill Upper Styria and head¬ quarters of the K. K. Mining Administration of Styria. Fine Views from the steps of the new Eedemptionist Ch. by the river Mnr and from the ruined castle of Massenberg. Tlie treaty of the Peace of Leohen, between the Austrians and Buonaparte, was signed at the Bishoj) s palace at Goss, near Leohen, i8th April, 1797, and not in Eggerwald’s garden, not- lyithstanding the Latin inscrip¬ tion there. Tlie road along the banks of the Mm’ picturesque. Coal-mines have been worked for 100 years past at Munzenberg, neai’Leoben. [L, a post-road strikes off N.W., through Vordernberg, to Eisenerz, Steyer, and Linz (Ete. 242).] Omnibus daily to Bnick, 50 kr.; Ein- spiinuer, 2 fl.; Zvveispliimer, 3 fl. The traveller descends the Murthal to 11m. Bruck. a stat. on the rly to Gratz (Ete. 247), which may be reached hence in 2 hrs. Rte. 241.-LIETZEN to the MOhTASTEEY of ADMONT, and to EISENERZ, by the PASS GESAUSE. lietze:! to ENG. M. Admont. . 12 Hieflau . . Eisenerz . ENG. ir. . II r94 EinspUnner from Lietzen to Admont in 1 hr., 3 fl.; and from Admont to Hieflau, by a good rd. through the pass, 3i fl. A seat may be had in the mail-car running daily between Lietzen and Hieflau, for 2 fl. 60 kr. From Lietzen the road proceeds along the 1. bank of the Enns, and then crosses it to Admont {Inns'- Joseph Drax- ler’s; Post; Buchbinder’s). Took its origin from the Benedictine Monastery (ad montes) founded here 1074 a.d. To the rt. is the Frauenberg with the Pilgrimage Church of Maria Kuhn. From it a fine View over the Ennsthal. A panorama from the Calvarien- berg. The 34 m. Gratz, or to Vienna by the rly. (Ete. 247). Kloster, once the richest in Styria, now much reduced, has a collegiate character, adapted for teaching to its younger mem¬ bers various practical arts useful to them in assisting their flocks in their after career as j^arish priests. The huilcling is unfi¬ nished, but of great extent, having 6 courts and 300 rooms. The Library, possessing 80,000 volumes and rare MSS., is placed in a room 220 ft. long, richly gilt, Avith 60 windows, frescoes by Altamonte, jiictures. marble floor and pillars. The Museum con¬ tains specimens of the natural 439 me. 2^2.—LINZ to GEATZ. 440 I)roductions of Styria, including rare minerals and horns of the Steinbock, formerly an inhabitant of the district and Herbaria. The Church, in the Italian style, date 3627, has the monument of Bishop Gebhard, of Salzburg, the founder of Admont. In the gardens are kept separate reservoirs for various species of fish, under lock and key.* [Near St. Gallen {Inn, clean and decent), a vill. 14 m. n.w. of Admont, -with many iron forges, is Schloss Gallenstehi, erected by the Abbots, to defend the ap¬ proach to Admont. Picturesque situation.] ' 3 m. Pass Gesause. A magnificent, dark, fir-wooded defile, extending without interruption to Hieflau. Name derived from the murmur of the river dashing over the roclcs in its bed, occasioning a succession of rapids. In 10 m. the river firlls 690 ft. On rt. in descending is the Johnshachthal, a scene of great grandeur. It is worth while ascending it as far as the vill. of Jolmsbach 2 hrs. {Lm) for the sake of the scenery. 13 | m. Hieflau. {Inn, Steuber’s, best) a post station on the rd. to Steyer. See Kte. 242. 11 J m, Eisenerz (Inn: Franz Moser’s; Ivonig von Sachsen). See Kte. 242. * The Kloster, Church, Pi-alatur, and Natural History collection, diirnt down 28th April, 1865. Only the Library saved. Rte. 242 .-IINZ to GEATZ, by STEYEE and EISENEEZ. LINZ to EXG. M, Enns . t 14 Steyer . .' 5 ' 16 W eyer . 29 Hieflau . . 27 Eisenerz . . II Vorderiiberg. 8 Leoben Bruck Gratz , EXG. M. . II . II . 34 161 From Linz, as far as Enns (rly.), is from 25 to 50 min. Between Enns and Steyer, and between Leoben and Bruck, stell- wagen daily. The interval, that is to say, between Steyer and Leoben, can only be travelled by extra-post. Extra¬ post difficult to obtain at Hieflau. This is a bad post-rd.,but it runs through the highly picturesque deep and narrow Enns Thai. It is called the Iron Eoad {Eisen- strasse) from the staple j^roduct of Styria, the manufixeture of which employs almost exclusively the population of the district through which it passes. Linz, described Kte. 195. Enns {Inns : Adler, very 14 m. good; Krone, good). By rly. from Linz, and described in Kte. 195. The rd. here turns S. up the Enns Thai, and passes the Kloster Glaink, the summer 13 m. residence of the Bishop of Linz. Steyer {Inns : GoldenerS m, Lowe; Ochs; Schilf), a town of 11,000 inhab., prettily situated at the confluence of the Steyer 441 Bte.2^%~LINZ to GBATZ. 442 with the Euns, famous for iron¬ works. The Austrian Sheffield. The old town hes between the 2 rivers, and is united with its suburbs Eiinsdorf and Steyerdorf by 2 bridges. Kt. of river on a height behind town is Burg Steyer, belonging to Prince Lamberg. The parish Church, date 1443? lias a tower built on the model of that of St. Stephen’s, Vienna. The ch. con- taiws,painted glass, hronzefont, with reliefs, 1569, and a modern votive carved Altarpiece by Guggen- berger, of Munich. Old and new Town House noticeable. [A very interesting Excursion may be made from Steyer, by ascending the Steyer Thai, S. through picturesque scenery, to its head among the Stoder mountains. At Burnhach about 30 m. from Steyer, the main-rd., wliich pro¬ ceeds S.E. to Windischgarsteii, is abandoned for a track available for country cars through the gorge of the Steyer to Hinter Stoder, 6 m. At the narrowest part of the gorge the Strumhoding, a fall of the Steyer, is worth seeing. Beyond the ch. on a small hill is the Inn, Schmalzer Wirth (Vogel’s, good). Situated in a smiling and verdant alp basin, surrounded with lofty pre¬ cipices of limestone, with peaks of grotesque outline, and abund¬ ance of waterfalls, it offers ex¬ amples of the most charming scenery. The Bolster Thcd, and at its upper end the Polsterluclce, is one specimen; and the Dietel- hohle is another. But the ascent of the Gross Friel (8238 ft.), the culminating peak of the Todte Gehirge is the principal excursion. The way to it lies through the Bolster Thai and Polsterlucke ; thence in 3 hrs., over the Gross and Klein Ofen to the KUnseralp. Here good night quarters. Hence there are two ways to the peak, but the easier one through the Klinserscharte requires 4 hrs. fur¬ ther. Both the near and distant panorama are highly rewarding. The Kreidelucke is a curious cavern in the Klein Priel. From Hinterstoder, Windischgarten can be reached in 4 hrs. by the Hocheck, a low pass above Vorder Stoder. It affords a magnificent, and the best view of the Hinter Stoder amphitheatre. Another outlet is by the Salz- steig in 7 hrs. to Mitterndorf, near Aussee (Ete. 240). It is 3 hrs. to the Poppen Alp, and 13 more to the col between the Krup- stein W. and Schneslitz E. Thence descend by the Schwarz See and Steyer See to Tauplitz Furth and Mitterndorf. By Herr Vogel’s care the track has, in 1864 , been made safe in one or two places against the risk of a false step. Besides the scenery it offers, it is by far the shortest Boute from the Stoder Thai into the Salzkammergut.] Losenstein, a village of nail -14 m. makers, with an old ch. and ruined castle. Arztberg (Jnw). Opposite is 3 m. Belch - Baming with important brass-foundries and government iron-works. V/eyer. The seat of iron and 12 m. steel manufactures. The road now penetrates among scenery of the most romantic beauty. Freuzbach. This stream fall -10 m. ing into the Enns on 1 ., and that of the 443 Rte. 242.~LINZ to GRATZ. 444 2ni. Laissa falling into the Enns on rt., divide the duchy of Austria from that of iStyria. Opposite the Laissa is Altenmarkt {Inns: Plirscli, clean and comfortable; Adler). [Koad from here to Admont, 18 miles, past St. Gallen, and the Burg Gallenstein, belonging to Admont Kloster. (Ete. ■241.;] 8 m. Eeifling. The Styrian Salza, springing from the Goller, N.E. ■ of Maria Zell, one of the mtns. of the Wiener Wald, falls into the Enns here. A Reclien (grating) 2100 ft. long, across its mouth, to arrest the floating timber {Floss- holz). In the Trias beds near, ichthyosauri have been found. 7 m. Hieflau {Inns: Steuber’s, best; Stiegmayr’s, good), romantically situated near the mouth of the Pass Gesause (Ete. 241). Reclien across the Enns at this place. The Lngauer Sp. (7210 ft.) can be climbed from here. It costs some trouble; guides can be inquired for of Stiegmayr, whose alp pastures lie on this mtn. EinspUnner to Admont, 3 } fl. The road now leaves the Enns and ascends by the Erzbach. 7 m. Leopoldsteiner Burg and See. The castle, 1 . side of rd., belongs to a peasant. The lake, behind the castle, beautifully situate, is surrounded by high mtns. 4 m. Calvarienberg, with fine view to rt., and Eisenerz {Inns: Franz Moser’s; Kdnig von Sachsen, not dear; Schaffer’s; Zum Ochsen). An ancient mining town of unprepos¬ sessing appearance, 1500 Inhab., overlooked E. by the precipitous Pfafenstein (6 no ft.), and W. by the KaiserscJiild (6815 ft.). The parish Church, St. Oswald’s, date 1279, Gothic, is said to have been built by Eudoljjh of Hapsburg. The Emperor Maximilian sur¬ rounded it with ramparts, that the monks of St. John might de¬ fend it against the Turks. The Lower on the height S. calls the miners to and from their work. The red Erzberg (literally an Iron mountain), 4870 ft., appears to close the valley S. The greater portion of its mass is so rich in ore, that in summer the rock is actually quarried from the top and sides of the mtn. in open day, and con¬ veyed to the smelting - house without any other preparation than that of being broken small. In winter the mines alone are worked. Fine white Arragonite (Eisenbliithe, carbonate of lime), in the form of branching coral is found lining the wall of several small Grottoes (Schatz Kammern) in the interior of the mtn. The lower part of the mtn. belongs to Government, the upper and richer portion is the property of companies in Yordernberg. The mines and furnaces—in use more than 1000 years—employ 5300 men, and produce 280,000 cwts. of iron annually. Permission to visit the mines and grottoes can be obtained at the mine- office (Kanzlei) in the town. The native excellence of the Sty¬ rian iron enables it to compete advantageously on the Continent with the best irons in Europe, even the Swedish and English. Probably from this district the Eomans derived the “ Noricos enses” mentioned by Horace, 445 Itte. 2iS.—SALZBUBG to LAIBACH. 446 Excursions. leads direct from the Mine into the post-rd.) (a) To the summit of the Erz- herg, 3 hrs. Here is an iron cross 28 ft. high, erected 1823, by the Archduke John, enclosing a vo¬ tive painting by Schnorr. Fine View. (h) To the Frauenmauer Ca¬ vern or Tunnel. Between the Gsoll Graben on the Eisenerz side, and the Jassing Graben on the E. or Tragosthal side, the former opening out E. of Eisenerz, is a lofty limestone wall. Penetrating this wall E. and W. is a cavern, with an entrance facing Eisenerz, 4707 feet above sea. Length of Tunnel 2115 ft. Aseent east¬ wards in tunnel more than 400 ft. 3 openings; but the middle one is the real entrance. 3 hrs. as¬ cent from Eisenerz. Fine Views from each end of Tunnel of the neighbouring mtns., that from the E. outlet including the Hoch- schwab (7441 ft.). The finest part of the Cavern is the “Kreuz- halle.” After entering, there is to 1 . a lateral Ice Cavern 200 ft. long with ice stalactites. Both Tunnel and Ice Cavern well de¬ serve a visit. Application for guides and lights to be made at the Mining Office. Domminger and Haid are safe guides. [A mountain path of 6 hrs. leads over to Wildalpen, through scenery of extreme beauty, and thence to Maria Zell. Rte. 246.3 A long steep ascent on the E. side of the Erzberg, leads to the 2 hrs. Prebuhl Joch (3862 ft.) the watershed between the basins of the Enns and Mur. A continual descent hence to (a hranch rd. Vordernberg (Inns: Louis 8 m. Ander's; Post). A wealthy vill. to which its exterior does not correspond. Has 14 iron fur¬ naces. Trofajach (Inn: Zum Lebzel -5 m. tern). Erom this point a broad mtn. valley as far as the river Mur, which the rd. crosses to enter Leoben (Inns: Goldener Ad-G in. ler; Kaiser von Oesterreich). (Rte. 240.) Eruck on the Mur. Stat. on the 11 m. Vienna and Trieste Ely. (Rte. 247 -) Gratz (Rte. 247). 34 m. Rte. 243. — SALZBURG to LAIBACH, by the Pass of the RADSTADTER TAUERN and KLAGENFURT. SALZBUEG to EXG. M. Werfen . . 33 Kadstadt . 21 Untertauern. 7 Tweng . . 14 St. Michael . 12 Remiweg. , 9 Gmund . . 10 Spital. , .11 Villacli . . 27 ENG. M. Velden . . ir Klagenfurt . 16 Unterbergen. 9 Neumarktl . 17 Krainburg . ij Laibach . , 17 227 447 me. ^^^..—SALZBUBQ to LAIBACH. 448 Eilwagen twice a week as far as Vil- lach, in 30 hrs. Rail to Klagenfurt. Eilwagen from Klagenfurt in morning daily to Laibach, in 11 hrs. This rd. abounds in fine sce¬ nery, and crosses three chains of Alps, the Kadstadter Tauern, the Katschherg, and the Loibl. Kd. good. Salzburg to Werfen already described. (Kte. 200.) 33 m. Werfen (Inn: Post, tolerable). A mile beyond, the rd. branches off 1 . from that to Gastein. crosses the Salzach, and after surmount¬ ing a two-mile long ascent by the Fritzbach, reaches 10 m. Huttau (Inn: Post, indifferent). Iron-plate works. Beyond is 4 m. Steg, a hamlet. The rd. crosses the Fritzbach, and turns more to the S., climbs out of tlfb Fritz Thai over a ridge (2700 ft.), and descends into the Ober Enns Thai. [Here a country rd. on rt. runs W. 14 m. through Altenmarkt and Wagrein, over the watershed between the basins of the Enns and Salzach, and falls into the Gastein rd. at St. Johann; not always practicable.] 7 m. Eadstadt 2170 ft. (Inn; Post, dear and dirty). An ancient town still surrounded by walls. In April, 1865, almost entirely burnt down. The Enns rises about 14 m. off to the S.W. in the Flachau, a valley con¬ taining one of the most consi¬ derable iron furnaces in Salz¬ burg. [A post-rd. descends the Enns Thai to Lietzen (Kte. 240), by the Handling Pass, the boun¬ dary between Salzburg and Styria, 5 m.; Schladming 7 m.; Grobming {Inn: Goldner Adler, one good room), 14m.; Steinach, 16 m. {Inn: Post, small and homely) ; to Lietzen, 9 m. About 1 1 m. before reaching Steinach, the rd. from Ischl and Aussee falls in (Kte. 240). Schladming C 2385 ft.) is picturesquely placed between the Limestone Plateau and wall, to which the peak of the Bachstein (9844 ft.) belongs, on the N.; and the Hoch Gel¬ ling, the culminating peak of the Central Kange in Styria (9380 ft.), on the S. The Contrast in fea¬ ture between the masses of the Northern Limestone Zone of the Alps on the one hand, and the gneissic and schistous peaks of the Central Mange on the other, is manifested more strikingly here perhaps than elsewhere. Excursions to {a) The Hoch Golling. — Is about 9 m. S. of Schladming, and closes the E. fork of the Schladmingthal. On the first day 7 hrs. walk to the upper Stein- ivcinderalm, at the foot of the Hoch Golling. Here a hut, erected by Herr von Vernoullier, of Schladming, who owns the shooting, may be used as niglit quarters. The visitor must bring provisions. Next day, 2 hrs. to the Gollingscharte, and 3 more thence (some portion very steep, with an inclination of from 45° to 50°) to the summit. Guides: Johann Bachler and Mathias Lechner. {h) The Miesach See (4444 ft.) and Waterfall .—About 4 hrs. to the lake, up the Schladmingthal. At the third hour turn up a valley to rt. Here, close to lake, is a well- furnished hunter's hut, where, by 449 Bte. 2^3.—SALZBURG to LAIBACH. 450 permission of Herr von Vemoul- lier, salbling (Salmo alpinics) from the lake may be cooked. Not far distant is a very jDic- turesque waterfall. (c) Hallstatt. — From Schlad- ming to Hallstatt, over the Dach- stein plateau, by a depression (7242 ft.) between the Eselstein and Sinibell.in i2hrs. Very laborious. Herr von Vernoullier may be con¬ sulted for the southern valleys of the Dachstein grouiD. {d) Through the Pass Stein .— Descend the Ennsthal about 7 m. to a hamlet ealled Salza, at the S.W. base of the Grim- ming. A rough, badly-kept rd. runs hence northwards 8 m., between the precipices of the Kam Spitze 1 ., and of the Grim- ming rt., as far as Mitterndorf, on the Aussee rd, (Kte 240). The scenery said to excel that of the Lueg Pass (Rte. 2oo).J Quitting Eadstadt the rd. crosses the Enns, leaves its basin, and ascends the Tauern, or Pass, S. 7 m. Untertauern {Inn: Post). Near this place, and not far from the rd., is a fine waterfall (200 ft.). The rd. becomes steeper, and Vor- spiinner are required. Quitting the stream of the . Tauernache, the rd., after a long a.scent and a turn to the 1., reaches tire 8 m. Tauernhaus, 5650 ft. (a kind of hospice; tolerable, but very dear). View desolate and rather monotonous. A rich botanical district. A stay here of a few days, aird the ascent of the neigh¬ bouring peaks, such as the Glock- lerin (7933 ft.), the Bleisling- Iceil (8200 ft.), the Hundsfeldkopf Kp. Tyr. & Alps. (7903 ft.), and the See-kahr Spitze (7434 ft.), would produce a rich harvest of plants. A chapel and a burial-ground, surrounded by high walls to keep out the wolves, stands near. Many of the tenants of the latter are unfortunates who have been lost in the snow. The rd. now descends S.E. to Tweng, 3840 ft. {Inn: Post).6 m. The first village in Lungau, the south-eastern Gau, or district, of the 4 divisions that form the principality of Salzburg. Vorspanner required here up to the Tauernhaus. The next place in descend¬ ing is Mauterndorf, 3422ft, {Inns : 31 m. Post; Wallner’s, good), a small market - town of old - fashioned buildings. Near are the ruins of a Schloss, surmounted by a tower 140 ft. high. [ 1 . A country rd. branches otf to Tamsweg, 3 hrs. distant. Tamsweg, 3350 ft. {Inn: Post, Zur Leisnitz), is the principal place in Lungau. Mauterndorf and St. Michael are the only other market-towns. The central alpine range separates into 2 branches at the Hafner Eck, on the W. boundary of Lungau; one run¬ ning N.E. towards Admont, and the other E. towards Neumarkt and Friesach. Over the former runs the post-rd from Eadstadt, forming the Eadstadter Tauern; over the latter the same rd. is continued S. into Carinthia. Be¬ tween them lies the longitudinal valley of the Mur. Lungau, there¬ fore, occupies the eorner or basin into which flow the head-waters of that stream. Surrounded thus by Q 451 Rte. 2^3.~SALZBURG to LAIBACH. 452 ’J mtns., Lungau has a cold climate. With its 3 months’ summer and 9 months’ winter, it has been called the “ Austrian Siberia.” Its nu¬ merous lateral valleys have their scenery diversified by 30 tarns. The Bothgilden Thai with 2 lakes, and the Hafner Eck (10,042 ft.) in the background— the most easterly peak of the Central range, with a glacier— and not far from the source of the Mur, possesses the elements of grandeur. The ascent of the Schilcher Hohe (7055 ft.) is very easy, and affords a magnificent mountain panorama. The Hoch Colling, from Hinter Goriach, requires 7 hrs. for its ascent. The Hafner Eck cannot he climbed from Lungau; it is possible only from the S. side, from the ridge overlooking the Malta Thai. From this ridge 3 laborious hrs. are requisite. And the summit of the Preher Spitze (8976 ft.), N. of Tamsweg, which compels a climb of 3 good hrs. from the Preber See (5183 ft.), is rewarding both to tourist and botanist. Good guides may be had. Length of Lungau from W. to E.—from the som’ce of the IMur to the Styrian boundary—14 hrs. Descending the Murthal E. into Styria, TJnzmarld (Ete. 250) is 50 m. distant from Tamsweg.] The rd. once fairly in the Mur- thal, comes close to the river, and turning sharply W. reaches m. St. Michael {Inns: Post, rough, but tolerable; Wastlwirth). A Vorspann hence up to Tweng; also in ascending the Katschberg. The rd. again turns S., and crossing the river and the valley j ascends the steep slope of the ’ Katschberg (5255 ft.). Its sum¬ mit is the boundary between Salz¬ burg and Carintnia. No view. The rd. descends steeply S.W. to Ilennweg,3 532 ft. {Inn: Post).9 m. For about two-thirds of the dis¬ tance to the next stat. the rd. passes through a fine defile of post-tertiary origin. Gmiind, 2255 ft. {Inn: Post, 10 n Herr Lax, large and good). The only market-town in the Lieser- thal. The central point for the neighbouring lateral valleys, which contain many ironworks. [Here the Malta, or Malfeinthal, more than 20 m. long, falls in on rt. At Dornbach, i hr. above Gmiind, is a chateau of Count Lodron. At the vill. of Malta, a little higher up, is the strong Schloss Kronech. Guides may be procured at this yill. by inquiry of the cure, who is a botanist. Excursions to {a) The summit of the Hoch- almspitze. — The highest peak (11,287 ft.) was reached in 1862 by Von Mojsisovics, in 9^ hrs. from his night-quarters on the Straner Aim (5317 ft.). The Senner on this Aim who accompanied him would be a good guide in any future attempt. (&) Up the Gossgrahen, W. to Malnitz. —This Graben'is said to abound in very grand scenery. There is a path leading up it over the ridge at the Dossen- thorl, and down to Dosen and the Dbssner See, and beyond to Malnitz, (Ete. 244.) 453 Bte. 2i3.—SALZBURG to LAIBACH. 454 (c) Uj> the Valley j to Q lirs .— Above Malta there are as many as 17 fine waterfalls (disregard¬ ing smaller ones), beginning with the Gdssfall 1 ., and that of the Fallback, descending from the Perschitzen, rt. At the TraxJiiltte shelter and cotfee may be had. I hr. further is the Blaue Tumpf —a tarn—a fine point of view. Beyond, the valley takes the name of Fiend, said to be a remi¬ niscence of the olden time, when the elk (Elend) was a native of this valley. In 2 lirs. further, the Adamhauerhutte is reached, where rough shelter for the night is obtainal3le. On the Brenner beyond, near the Samerhiitte, is a good point of view for the scenery of the Anhogel, Hochcdni- spitze, and other snowy peaks, and of the Gross Elend glacier. To rt, a path leads over the Kleine ElendscJiarte into the Kbtscliaclithal, and down it to Gastein (Ete. 200). Above the Bddernwand, at 6000 ft., Herr Kohlmayr, the cure of Malta, discovered an in¬ scription, said to be in Etruscan characters.] Descending still, the rd. enters the broad Drauthal at 11 m. Spital, 1867 ft. {Inn: Post, largo and good). Owes its name to the hospital erected by the Counts of Ortenburg in the middle ages for the reception of their people attacked with leprosy, &c., during their con¬ flicts with the Turks. The build¬ ing is still in existence, but almost entu’ely renewed. Since 1662 this thriving market-town, with large estates near, has belonged to the Princes Porzia, who at present live chiefly at Milan. The family chateau, near Spital, is richly adorned without; and its saloons are crowded with works of art. The Lieser falls into the Drau opposite Spital. [Not far to N.E. of Spital lies the Millstadter See, about 10 m. long, with pretty scenery on its banks. It may be explored as far as Millstadt, 5 m. distant, where are tlie ruins of an old Kloster, built on the site of a Slavic heathen oracle. The lake contains excellent salmon-trout.] [Et. the rd. ascends the Drau¬ thal to Sachsenburg, 9J m., where the Mollthal falls in on rt, from N.W., and supjjlies the only car¬ riage route to Heiligenblut and tile Gross Glochner at its head (Etes. 2or, 244); and beyond to Greifenburg, 12 m.; and to Lienz, the first town in Tirol, 23 1 m. (Ete. 223).] Eilwagpn daily from Spital to Brixen, through the Pusterthal, iu 215 hrs. Descending the broad Drau¬ thal the first town is Paternion (Jww: Post, rough), 12 a small market-town near the entrance to the Stoclcenboyerthal, leading to Weissenbach and the Weissen See (Ete. 223). The Drauthal, from Spital downwards, is fertile and well cultivated. Villach, 1564 ft. {Inns: Post, 15 pretty good; Goldener Lamm ; Steinhauer), a town of 2400 inhab., on the Drau, above its junction with the Gail. 8 rds., in as many directions, meet here. Still a place of trade, but in the middle ages was of far greater importance as the hcdfivay-house between Bavaria, Austria, and Q 2 455 me, 2i3.—SALZBURG to LAIBACH. 456 Venice. S. of the town is the site of a battle, in which the Turks, in 1492, were defeated ■with great slaughter by the Carinthian Chivalry, under one of the Khevenhiillers, with aid from the Emp. Maximilian. The Parish Church, 15th cent., con¬ tains several interesting monu¬ ments of the Khevenhiiller fa¬ mily, and one of Count Dietrich- stein, the friend of the Emp. Maximilian. Villach is the birth- jilace of Theophrastus Paracelsus, whose grave is shown at Salz- bura:. In the neighbourhood are warm mineral springs, used by the Eomans, temp. 87° F., and advantageous in chronic rheuma¬ tism, paralysis, and lead colic, &c. They have given to the town its name ,—‘^Villa ad aquas.” Excursions to (a) The ruins of Schloss Lands- hron .—Stands on a wooded hill, 5 m. N.E. of Villach, near the outlet from the S. end of the Ossiacher See, and belonged once to the Khevenhullers. The lake has no interesting scenery, but the ruins are extensive (Schloss burnt 1805); and there is a fine Vieio from them of the Mangert, Spik, Terglou, and other peaks of the Julian Alps. (h) The Summit of the Dohrac (Dohratsch) or Villacher Alp, 7066 ft .—The best approach is from Bleiberg, 2930 ft. {Inn: good), a mining vill. of 3800 inhab., 10 m. W. of Villach, and situate in a high longitudinal cleft at the N. foot of the DobraA A good car- riage-rd. leads up thitlier in 2 hrs., and proceeds onwards through Kreuth, down into the Gailthal, near Notsch, and on to Hermagor in 8 hrs., dining at Kreuth. The lead-mines here — at and near Bleiberg—are among the most extensive and productive in the empire. The ore occurs partly in the Dachstein limestone of the lower Lias, partly in the upper Trias. The path to the summit—in 4 hrs.—leads in a series of zigzags up the Lanner Schlucht. On the highest point is a German pil¬ grimage chapel, and close by a Slovenic one, extensively visited by pilgrims of the two races on the 24th July. Panorama one of the finest in Carinthia. The line of Julian, rising behind the Carnic Alps and Karawankas, is opposite S.; 5 lakes and the whole length of the Gailthal lie below ; the Ante- lao and Marmolata are seen in the S.W. ; while the view N. is bounded by the Gross Glockner and other snow - peaks of the Noric chain. Looking down¬ wards along the bare crags into the Gailthal, more than 5000 ft. below, the eye recognises in the precipitous face of that side of the mountain and the desolate hillocks at its foot the results of the earthquake of the 25th Jan., 1348. A hut near the summit, with lower and upper room and a stove, affords tolerable night- shelter for the visitor who desires to see the sun set and rise. He must take provisions and candles. Enumeration of Roads leading out of Villach. 1. That taken by the present rte., which ascends the Drauthal to Lienz, in Tyrol (lUe. 22j). 2. A country rd. by the Ossiacher See, N.E. to Feld'kirchen, and onwards to St. Veit and Friesach (Rte. 250). 3. A post-rd., leading E. to Klagenfurt, now almost superseded by the rly., opened June, 1864. , , 457 Hie. 2i3.—SALZBUIiG to LAIBACH. 458 4. By the same post-rd. as far as Velden, on the Worther See, and thence by steamer along the lake and up the Lend Canal to Klagenfurt. (See below.) 5. A country rd., which diverges from the great post-rd. to Tarvis at Federaun, S m. S. of Villach, and, passing through Firnitz, descends theDrauthal, here called the Rosenthal, by Latschach and Wind- isch Feistritz, until it falls into the post- rd. from Klagenfurt, S., over the Loibl Pass, opposite Schloss Hollenburg. This may he adopted as a circuitous rte. to Klagenfurt, in substitution for Kos. 3 or 4. A country car will take '] hrs. The windings of the Drave, here a large river, the cliffs of the tertiary plateau of the Turia Wald and Satnitz, 1 ., and the slopes of the N. ridge of the Karawankas, rt., give rise to interesting scenerj^. Arrived at the Loibl rd., cross the Drave, ascend the cliff to the top of the plateau, and pursue the rd. N. to Klagenfurt. 6. A post-rd., diverging from the Tar¬ vis rd. at Tschau, and climbing S. over the ridge of the Karawankas, descends into the upper Savethal at Wurzen (Kte. 251). 7. The gi-eat post-rd. to Tarvis, forking into 2 at that place. One branch con¬ tinues W., and enters Venetia at Pon- tebba (Kte. 2 50); the other branch turns S., and, surmounting the Predil Pass at llaibl, descends into the principality of Gdrz and the basin of the Isonzo (Rte. 254). f 8. The country rd., W’hich ascends the Gailthal, diverging from the Tarvis post- rd. at IMaglern, 15 m. from Villach (Rte. 223A). With the exception of 3 bridges close together, by means of which the railway clears a great loop of the Drave, the post-road and rly. keep to the N. side of the river, and reach 11 m. Velden {Inn: Stadt Triest), a small village at the W. end of the Worther or Werder See. Here the traveller may continue his route by rly. along the N. bank of the lake to Klagenfurt; or, if the steamer be at hand, take the lake and canal route. The scenery of the lake is picturesque and varied, and the hills on the S. bank allow at intervals views of the Karawankas beyond. Better seen by steamer than by rail. The steamer leaves Klagenfurt morn¬ ing and afternoon daily, and the passage occupies about 4 hrs. It does not stop long at Velden, and touches at about 6 places on the N. and S. banks of the lake. The most interesting object on the lake is the ruined ch. of Sta. Maria Werth, standing on a high promontory on the S. bank, about half-way. Built in 891 a.d., it has given its name to the lake. On 1 ., on entering the Lend Canal, stands the Schloss Maria Loretto, belong- 13 m. ing to the Count von Eosenberg. At the end of the canal is Klagenfurt (Inns: Kaiser 3 m. von Oesterreicli, best and good; Moser’s, good; Kaiserkrone, in¬ different ; Post, not good; Sterne; Sonne: Plirsch), 1437 ft. Stands at the W. end of a small plain about 18 m. from E. to W., and 9 from N. to S. This plain—formed of diluvium, and at its E. border descending by several terraces to the trough of the Drave—was once the basin of a lake of which the Worther See appears to be the last trace. It has been the capital of Carin- thia since 1518. The old capital was St. Veit ^Kte. 250). The fortifications erected 1580, and, except one gateway, destroyed by the French in 1809, have given place to agreeable pro¬ menades. In i860 its population was 15,000. Objects of interest in and near the Town. a. Landhaus. —The building 459 'nte. 2id.—SALZBVBG to LAIBACH. 460 where the Carintliian Estates hold their meetings, date 1591. The Gireat Hall ( WappenSaaT) has its walls covered witli the arms of the Carintliian noblesse. Two paintings here represent the an¬ cient mode of election and of homage of the Dukes of Oarinthia upon the Karnherg and at the Zollfeld (Etc. 250). The public museum and library, containing objects of Koman and middle age antiquity, old portraits, rock specimens and ores, &c., and open daily, is in another part of this building. The Fiirstenstein, brought hither from the Karn- berg in 1864 for better preserva¬ tion, is under shelter in the court¬ yard (Etc. 250). h. Dragon (Lindwurm). — A huge figure of bronze in the new square, the monument of one said to have haunted this district in ancient times, when it was a wild morass. c. Tower of St. Egydius, the Pfarrkirche, 290 ft, erected 1709, commands an extensive pano¬ rama. The Karawankas, finely in view S., are, however, too near to allow the peaks of the Julian Alps to bo seen beyond. d. Franz-Joseplh Anlagen ('Gar¬ dens').—On the Kreuzherg, above the Kalvarienkirche, outside the town, W. Laid out in a variety of walks commanding distant views ; nearly the entire range of the Karawankas is seen. A military hand twice a week. e. Satnitz Plateau and the Pre- diger Stulil. — Concealing from view the roots of the Karawankas, is a plateau of miocene, or newer tertiary origin, with cliffy edges, 500 to 600 ft. above the plain, and running for many miles E, and W. at a distance of 4 m. S. of Klagcnfurt. Inhabited entirely by Slovenes, a branch of the Sla¬ vonic stock: the same people who occupy the valleys of the Karawankas and Carniola. The plateau is dotted with small hamlets, and isolated from the world below. A fine prospect of Klagenfurt, the plain, the lake, and the old historic sites to the N., may be obtained from the Prediger Stulil, i hr.’s walk from Ebenthal, a village at the foot of the plateau, near the chateau of Count Goes. The Satnitz pos¬ sesses a rich flora: 800 species of flowering plants are said to have been found upon it. At Gurnitz, 2 m. E. of Ebenthal, and like it, at the foot of the Satnitz, is a pic¬ turesque break in the face of the cliff, running up some little dis¬ tance, and called the Grotto. It shows well the character of the conglomerate that forms the upper portion of the plateau; and, owing to its cold currents of air and N. aspect, shelters cer¬ tain Alpine plants, as Bhododen- dron hirsutum, Silene Alpestris, Saxifraga mutata, and others, at the unusually low level of 1500 feet above the sea. /. White-lead manufactory, be¬ longing to the Herbert family, the largest in Austria. The Herberts were ennobled by Maria Theresa in 1765. Excursions from Klagenf urt. From this point the valleys and scenery of the Karawankas arc most conveniently explored. This chain takes its rise as a low ridge from the Canalthal at Tar- vis, runs E. with increasing height to the Kocna (Kotschna), where it becomes a double chain : the N. one facing the Satnitz, and the S. one—the main divi- 461 Ete. 2^3.-SALZBUEG to LAIBACH, 462 sion—diverging more and more from the other; and finally reaches its culmination in height, scenic boldness, and character, in the Caldron of the Sterner Alp, on tlie boundary of Cariuthia, Oar- niola, and Styria. Further E. it dies away in the Bacliergehirge, a low chain lying between Mar¬ burg on the Drave, and Cilli on the Save, stations on the Vienna and Trieste Ely. (Ete. 248). The Cross sjmrs uniting the N. and S. chains form several valleys, pos¬ sessing the common feature of opening out by narrow ravine¬ like entrances through breaks in the N. chain into the Eosentlial, and closed at their head by the precipitous and bare faces of limestone — Dachstein limestone of the lower lias—of the S. chain. The Karawanlms form the boundary between Carinthia and Carniola, and further E. between Carinthia and S. Styria. The westernmost of the valleys formed by the cross spurs uniting at intervals the N. and S. chains is the I. Barenthal. Scenery eliarm- ing and varied. Take a ear along the Loibl road, and turn to rt. on the S. side of the Satnitz plateau before reaching Kirsclien- theuer. Stop at Windisch Fei- stritz, in the Eosentlial {Inn: Kraiger’s, good), 2^ hrs. from Klagenfurt. Here a guide may be had—necessary in exploring the Karawankas — ^c 7 lo can speak both German and Kraineriscli, as the Slovenie language is called. It is 3 hrs. up the narrow ra¬ vine worn in the tertiary con¬ glomerate, and through the Entrance formed by the N. ridge, to Kranoutz's, a farm-house, where the Stou at the head of the valley first comes into view. Tolerable night-quarters here, and perhaps milk. Provisions to be brought from Kraiger’s. Next morning, the Stou (7325 ft.) can be climbed in 4 hrs. — over abundance of debris—by ascending 1. to the saddle between it and the Yer- taSa, and then turning to rt. * Commands a very fine view of the Terglou and Eie E. portion of the Julian Alps. Laibach is visible S.E., and the Grossglock- ner and Noric chain N.W. Many interesting plants may be ga¬ thered, such as Viola Zoysii, Scor- zonera rosea, Gentiana imhricata and pumila, Fedicularis incar- nata, &c. Another excursion may be made from Windisch Feistritz over the Kotschna Joch, on the W. ridge of the Barenthal and down to Jauerherg, in the Savetlial, 3 hrs. up, and hr. down. E. of the Barenthal is the 2. Bodenthal. This valley is a branch from the Loiblthal, and the traveller enters it by turning sharply to rt. at Sapotnik, | hr. beyond Unterloihl. It is inferior to its neighbour; but the precipices of the Vertaca (7174 ft.) at its head are fine. Windisch Bleiburg, at the entrance, is a lead-mining vill. At the Bodner bauer, half¬ way uj), are night-quarters, with milk and butter; and the Stou may be climbed from the foot of the Vertaca, by ascending the track to rt. as far as the Joch, and falling into the track from the Barenthal. East of the Loiblthal are the following valleys, each possessing characteristic and interesting scenery. 3. Waidisch thal. This is ap- 463 Itte. ^^'^.—SALZBVBG to LAIBACH. 464 proaclied by the Loibl rte., and then turning into rd. on 1., at Kirsclientlieiier, through Ober Fer- lach to Waidisch (Inn: good), in the ravine between tlie Gross Ger- louz or Harlouz, and the Matzen Vrh. At Ferlacli is the oldest manufactory of arms in Austria, carried on by an association of 300 masters. Above, the valley forks into several branches, but all are closed at their head by the long hare wall of the Koschutta. Its highest peak is 6863 ft. From Waidisch the Gross Ohir (7000 ft.), in the N. chain, may be ascended by going E. over the ridge into the next valley, the Zellerthal, through Zell, to the Terldbauer, a farm-house at the W. foot of the Obir. Here night- quarters, but provisions had better bo taken from Waidisch. 3 hrs. hence to the summit, a narrow ridge. A miner’s house for 30 men, with a separate bed¬ room for the superintendent, near the top, not over-clean, might also serve as night-quarters. * From this point the double chain and cross spiers of the Karaivanlcas well seen; as also the peaks of the Steiner Caldron, close at hand, and great part of Carinthia. The Obir is rich in Coleoptera, land-shells, and plants. Among the last are— Alyssum Widfeni- anum, Arabis ovirensis. Cineraria ovirensis. Campanula Zoysii, Eri- trichium nanum, Pedicularis rosea, &c. E. of the Waidischthal is the 4. Vellach Thai. (Rte. 243 a.) Furtlier E. again is the 5. Miesthal. Scenery varied and picturesque. From Bleiburg the Petschen is a noble mass S. Rail from Klagenfurt E. to Blei¬ burg. A good car-road leads thence 9 m. to 3 Iies, or Miss, at the narrow entrance of the valley, where the stream finds its way out between the spurs of the Petschen (6925 ft.) and Ursula Berg (5406 ft), both belonging to the N. chain. Schwarzenbach, about 5 m. farther, is the j)rincipal vill. Here a guide for the ascent of tile Petschen may be found. It is rich in lead, and interesting plants grow on its slopes, in¬ cluding Cortusa Matthioli. From Koprein, some 7 m. above Schwar¬ zenbach, Sulzbach, in the Caldron of the Steiner Alp, may be reached in less than 3 hrs. (Rte. 243 a.) [The rly. is continued E. of Klagenfurt, past Volkermarkt, Unter Drauberg (where it quits Carinthia), and, continuing E. down the Drauthal, joins, at IMarburg. the Vienna and Trieste Rly. (Rtes. 253 and 248.)] Retmning to Klagenfurt, the Rte. quits it by the Viktring suburb, and, crossing the level S., jjasses on rt. .Viktring, formerly an exten- 3 m sive convent, founded in 1142, and dissolved by Josepli II. In the ch. is some fine old stained- glass. The rd. now gradually ascends the Satnitz plateau to Schloss Hollenburg, on its S. 3 111 edge, built in the i6th centy. by Sigismund Count von Dietrich- stein. This point overlooks a great portion of the Rosenthal, and faces the Gross Harlouz, and two of the entrances into the Karawankas. Descending the cliff by a zigzag, crossing the Drave, and passing through Kirschentheuer, the rd. arrives at 465 Rte, 2^^.—SALZBURG to LAIBACH. 466 3 m. TTiiterbergen, where horses are changed. Vorspamier hence to the summit of the pass. 7 hrs. from Unterbergen, over the summit, to Neumiirktl. The entrance into the Loibl Thai is at Im. ITnter Loibl. Iron-works. The Gross Harlouz, now on 1 ,, is said to shelter numerous chamois. At 2 m. Sapotnik, the narrow entrance into the Bodenthal (see above) is passed on rt., and its stream forms a fine waterfall under the rd. At 1 m. Deutscher Peter, an Inn, where German is spoken. (Kough ac¬ commodation, and not over-clean —the resort of chamois-hunters.) Passing the new ch., and at some distance further, the old ch. of St. Leonhard, the rd. rises by wide sweeps to the summit of the 5m. Loibl or Leobl Pass (4522 ft.), constructed by the Emperor Charles VL, in 1725. Along the top of the ridge is the boundary between Carinthia and Carniola. The rd. was formerly carried through the summit ridge by a tunnel; but the roof having fallen in, the rd. has been made open to day. A black obelisk on each side marks the summit. Close to the S. side is a row of wooden huts, used to store goods in when brought up from either side to wait until it be convenient to carry them down the other. The Loibl Thai is so beset with spurs as to prevent any distant view until the summit is reached. But from this point, looking W., the precipitous faces of the Selen- itza, Vertaca, and Stou are seen in fine profile, while opposite is that of the Begunsica, which, running E. to jom the Koschutta, and W. in the direction of the Stou, gives rise to the curious feature of a duplication of the main ridge at this part of the chain.* In the neighbourhood are many inter¬ esting plants—such as Lamium Orvala, Hacquetia Epipactis, Daphne alpina, Lilium carnio- licum, Campanula Zoysii, &c. The S. slope is much steeper than the N., and the rd. is car¬ ried rapidly down by several short zigzags which, in the de¬ scent, require careful driving. In winter it is often impassable for a week together. Passing the ch. of Sta. Anna, 1., the rd. descends through a break in the Begunsica ridge, and passes along the entire length of the closely shut-in Sta. Anna- thal to Heumarktl (Inns: Post; ‘Graf 3 m. Eadetzky), a prosperous vill., engaged in superintending the transit of goods over the pass, or in the manufacture of iron-wire. Vorspaiiner hence to the summit of the pass. [Before reaching Nagles or Nali- lass, about 9 m. further, the post- rd. up the Savethal to Wurzen and Villach falls in on it. (Kte. 251-)] Krainburg {Lins: PostMay -13 m. er’s, close to the bridge; both good) stands on the edge of a miocene terrace overlooking the * A view from a point above the summit of the pass is given in the illus¬ trations to the 1st vol. of Transactions of the Vienna Alpine Club. 4 G 7 lUe. 24 :^x.~KLAGENFURT to KRAINBURG, or CILLL 468 Save, and between tliat stream and the Ranker. Has 2500 Inhab. In the loth centy. was the seat of the Margraves of Carniola, wlio resided in the Schloss Kiesel- stein, in the town. Next to Laibach, it is the principal town in Carniola. It trades in corn, baskets, and carpets. The read continues S.E. down the Savethal, which gradually widens into a diluvial plain, dotted here and there with island hills of carboniferous and trias rock rising out of the dilu¬ vium, to 17 m. Laibach (Inns: Stadt Wien, good ; Elephant; Wilden Maun : Baierischen Hof), a station on tlie Vienna and Trieste Rly. (Rte. 248.) Kte. 243 A. - KLAGEN- EURT to EUAINBURG, by KAPPEL; or to CILLI, by the CALDRON of the STEINER ALP. KLAGENFURT to exCt. sr. HRS. Kappel (Vellachthal) by ) , the rd. 5 Sulzbach (in the Cal- ' 1 _ dron).J * T g Laufen. _ 51 Cilli. — 6 Or from Kappel to Ober Seeland . . . 9 Kanker ..... 10 Krainburg .... 10 The entire road from Kappel to Krain- burg tolerably good; but both slopes of the Seeberg excessively steep. Beyond, it is descent almost the whole distance. Tliis is a very interesting Rte., laying open scenery of a high order not visible from any portion of the Loibl Pass, and is made by way of the Vellach Thai, probably the longest valley in the Kara- wankas. The Vellach Thai may be reached in two ways. ist. hy rail to Kiihnsdorf, E. of Klagenfurt; and thence by car S. through Eberndorf and Sitters- dorf. 2ndly. and more interesting, by following the post rd. to VdlJcermarlit until it crosses the Gurk; thence by the country rd. on 1 . through Grafenstein, over the Drave by the Anna- hrilclce, near the Satnitz cliffs, and through Rechberg to Kappel, also called Eisen 24 Kappel (Inn: Frau Popp’s, Mr), an old fashioned small market town; formerly more important, as the place of transit for iron and cattle on the way from Carinthia to Carniola by the Seeberg Pass. Since the com¬ pletion of the Loibl Pass it has fallen off. It stands at the meet¬ ing point of 5 valleys, in a pictu¬ resque situation. A band of granite and a parallel one of diorite make their appearance in the valleys E. and W. of Kappel. To these the disturbances in the sedimentary beds of the district are attributed. Excursions. (a). To the summit of the Gross Obir (7000 ft.). Leave the Ebriach 469 itte. 2i^k.—KLAGENFVRTtoKnAlNBURG,or CILLL 470 Thai shortly before reaching Ebriach, and ascend slantingly by a good pathway through the woods to the open alp and thence to the “KnappenJiaus.” 4 hrs. to summit. Johann Pannholzer is a guide. (h). To the Caldron of the Steiner Alp, and to Cilli. In exploring the Caldron it will be as well to take provisions from Kappel. and a guide who can speak both “ Krainerisch ” and German. The way turns off 1 . by the Eemschenig Bach that falls into the Vellach Bach a little above Kappel. Beyond Remsclienig turn rt. and ascend the ridge to St. jL eon/iurd, where milk, cheese, and bread may be obtained. In I hr. further, or 3 hrs. from Kappel, the summit of the ridge (4458 ft.) is reached, and the whole of the Caldron is revealed with its 3 internal valleys, its bordering peaks, and the Dolomitic Grintouz or Grinto- vec at its S.W. corner (8386 ft.), the culminating peak of the Kara- wankas. Descent by Ileiligen- geist in 2 hrs. to Sidzbaeh, stand¬ ing in the narrow gorge that leads out of the Caldron. At the Inn,— in 1861, kept by a widow, —rough accommodation. If when the traveller is at Sulzbacli there be any difficulty in retaining the guide who has accompanied him, Herr Janz, the priest, may be applied to for another guide. The Caldron may be left; — Either by following the course of the Sann, which rises in the Caldron, downwards through the “ Needle's Eye,'’ the narrowest part of the gorge, past Leutsch- dorf, where igneous rocks arc visible, to Laufen, in 5 J hrs.; and then taking a car for 6 hrs. more down the broadening Sann- thal to Cilli on the Vienna and Trieste Ely. (Ete. 248). Or, better, by ascending the level Logarthal — the central valley of the Caldron — past the Logar and Plessnig farmhouses, through a wood, and leaving the Sann imterfall on rt., ascend by a circuit S. to the ridge (6197 ft.), between the Oistriza 1 . and the Slcuta or Rinha Vrh rt., and descending the entire length of the Feistriz Thai, to the small town of Stem in Carniola. This route brings the traveller in close neighbourhood to the finest portion of the scenery both on the Styrian and Carniolan side. From stein it is 8 miles by a country road S. to the post-road at Tersain, and 10 more to Laibach (Rte. 248). Or 22 m. E. to the post-rond at Lotschitz, and 20 m. further to Cilli (Rte. 248). The rd. ascends the Vellachthal to Bad Vellach. Its springs, temp. 5 m. 48^^ Fahr., are much visited. The ascent of the steep Seeherg Pass begins, and the Col (4100 ft.) is reached, Vorsplinner in the shape of two oxen usually employed. Ober Seeland (3026 ft.)^ once! m the site of a lake and the head of the Kanhertlial. The preci¬ pices of the Merslagora, Skuta, Grintouz, and Kocna stand out grandly on its opposite or S.E. side. From a rough Inn here the ascent of the Grintouz might be attempted by wny of the Chalet of Suchadounig on its S.W. slope. About half way down the valley 471 nte. 2U.—M6LLTI1AL to GASTEIN, 472 the rd. passes through a gorge called the Seven Bridges, produced by tlie closing in of the spurs of the Kodna 1 ,, and the Storsic Vrh rt. Beyond, a mass of porphyry comes to light on both sides of the rd., lying uj)on upper carboniferous limestone (“ Gailthaler Kalk ”). The vill. of 10 m. Kanker is passed, and the rd. soon after turns sharply W. and continues in that direction to Hoflein, where it emerges from a narrow outlet into the broad level of the Savetlial, and crosses it S. to 10in. Krainhurg (Inns: Post; Mayer’s, close to the bridge, both good). Ete. 243. Time from Kappel to Krainburg from 7 to 8 brs., including i br.’s halt at Ober Seeland. From Kanker to Krainburg about 2 brs. Rte. 244.-From LIENZ, in the PTJSTERTHAL, or from SACHSENBURG, in the UPPER DRAUTHAL, to HEILIGEN- BLUT and the GROSS GLOCK- NER; and over the RAURISER TAUERN to GASTEIN. LIENZ to ENG. M. IIRS. Winklern .... — 3 SACHSEN BURG to Ober Vellach ... 15 Winklern .... 22 Heiligenblut ... 18 Worth. — 7 Gastein (by Kauris) . — 6 Gastein (by Bucheben). — 71 From Bucheben (by Gold -1 zecher Tauern) to/ — 12 Hblut.J The scenery of the valley of the Moll, on the south side of the Gross Gloclmer, is surpassed in grandeur by few spots in the Alps. The direction of the valley is very sinuous. After running S. from the G. Glockner as far as Winklern, it bends E., beyond Stall it turns N.E., and, finally, at Ober Villach makes another abrupt turn S.E. The waterfalls in the upper portion are striking and numerous. The villages are many and flourishing; but several are the successors of older ones that have been destroyed by the masses of debris brought down by torrents. The debris forms great /a?is(Schutt-Kegel) which in some instances stretch quite across the valley level. Heiligenblut, near the foot of tlie Gross Glockner may well be called the Austrian Cha- mouni; but its simple vill. inu, though enlarged and improved, has not yet been transformed into an hotel, so that luxuries must not be expected. 473 hy HEILIGENBLUT. 474 Tlie Moll Thai may be entered from the W, by way of Lienz in Tyrol; or from the E. by way of Sachsenburg, in the upper Drau Thai, at the point where the Moll falls into the Drau. From Lienz (Ete. 223)—for tra¬ vellers approaching/rom TF., from Bruneckeii and Brixen—the path runs E. 4 m. over the plain to Dolsach, a small vill. at foot of the Iselberg, a low, lateral ridge (3755 ft.), the boundary between Tyrol and Carinthia. Its summit commands a magnificent View of the Kreuzhofel group of Dolomites on S. side of the Drave, the highest of which, the Kreuzhofel, is 8978 ft. The path descends thence into the valley of the Moll, and reaches It is possible to take a car from Lienz to Winklern, but not advisable except for luggage. 3 hrs. Winklern {Inn, VonAichen- egg’s, a weal thy farmer; very good, charges most moderate), built at the angle of the valley where it bends to E. It is beautifully situated, and stands on a terrace high up on the slopes of the Isel¬ berg. A car or horse may be hired here to Heiligenblut, 18 m.; of late rd. im¬ proved. From Sachsenhurg (Ete. 223)— for travellers approaching from E., from Villach—there is a good carriage-rd. as far as Winklern, passing through the vill. of Moll- brucken at the junction of the IMoll with the Drave to 7 m. Kolbnitz, or Kolmitz, 'at the foot of the Danielsherg, an iso¬ lated hill, of tertiary conglome¬ rate, standing in the middle of the valley, with a small ch. upon its summit. A Eoman temple dedi¬ cated to Hercules once stood on this site, converted in the 7th centy. into a Christian Church. Not far off, at Naplach, are iron works. At Penk are the ruins of Moll- 3 m. theuer. Traces of the old Eoman rd. leading by Malnitz, over the Korn Tauern to Gastein and Salzburg may be seen here. At Stallhofen, in a chapel with a 3 m. cupola roof attached to the ch., are some good biblical frescoes, done 1717, by Fromiller, the Ca- rinthian artist. To N. of the vill. are the ruins of the Schloss Oher^ fallcenstein on a rock 300 ft. high. Beyond is Ober Vellach (Inns: Post, 2 m. passable; Pacher, dear) a small market-town, and the principal place in the valley; pleasantly situated. Probably of Eoman origin, it was in the middle ages the centre of the mining activity of Carinthia, Styria, and Tyrol. It reached the height of its pros¬ perity in the i6th centy., when it possessed in its vicinity 7 thriving gold and silver mines. The Schloss Prohuschgen shows the remains of better days. In the ch., a Holy Family on wood, by Ignatius Schoreel. 5 hr. beyond are the ruins of Groppenstein with a tower 180 ft. high. [On rt. a rd., very rough for cars, runs N. 4 m., to Malnitz, the meeting point of two Passes over the main chain, the more western, the Nassfelder Tauern (8038 ft.) and the more eastern, the Korn Tau¬ ern (8088). Both, however, meet on N. side at Bockstein. From 475 476 Bte. 24:4:.—MOLLTHAL to GASTEIN, Malnitz to the summit in about 3 lirs„ and about the same time for the descent to Bockstein (Kte. 20j). At the foot of the Korn Tauern, I hr, from Malnitz, is a tarn full of trout and salblinn^ (Salmo alpi- nus); and upon the alp slope beyond may be seen here and there traces of the old Koman rd. — the so-called Heidenweg. The mtns. around shelter abund¬ ance of chamois.] The valley now runs W. as far as 6 m. Fragant, where an enormous fan of de'bris occupies the whole breadth of the valley. In i86i, a lake nearly 2 m. long was formed by its further extension. In the lateral valley—above Inner Fragant—are copper-mines, once rich, now almost given up. At 8 m. Stall (Jnn, Easinger’s), the vill. stands upon an avalanche of earth, that has covered its pre¬ decessor, Wildeck. [The pedestrian may ascend the slopes to N. by a track that leads to a Thor between the Kol- mitzen and Melen Kogel, and de¬ scend by rt, side of the Melen Bach to Mortschach. This track cuts olf the great bend made by the valley, but leaves out Wink- lern.] 8 m. Winklern. See above. The Emperor Franz Joseph and the Empress stayed the night at Von Aichenegg’s, on their- way to Heiligenblut, in 1856. Above Winklern the valley bears the name of Grossldrcheim Thai. Gm. Mortshach, This vill. is sur¬ rounded by the abundant debris brought down from N.E. by the Astenbach. ] Dollach {Inn, Oidner’s, good), 4 m. Sagnitz, passed on rt. before reaching Dollach, stands on a broad ridge, strewn with stony fragments, the result of a fall from the Mohrenkopf. The Zirk- nitz Bach falls in on rt. after- passing through a long, curious cleft called the “ Grotto.'' Above this point the valley grows irar- rower, and the view forwards is limited. Beyond Putschall, and after- crossing the Moll, the Jungfernsprung is passed 1 . 3 | m. It is a fall of the Staubbach order, thrown over a serpeirtino preci- pice of more than 400 ft. Pockhorn, a pretty vill. with a lu. ^ graceful spire among alders. A little furtW the river forms a considerable cascade by forcing its way through a rock wall that appears to close the valley. There is on the asceirt a path 1 . to a seat that affords a good view of the Fall. When at the summit the Glockner is iir full view, and also Heiligenblut Schober’s, 3 m. comfortable, but very dear), 4247 ft. Stands orr a small ter¬ race overlooking the rt. bank of the Moll. It derives its name from a phial of the “ holy Hood " of our Saviour brought, according to tradition, from Constantinople in the time of the Emperor Leo by Briccius, a Dane, who was on his way to his native country to * On i8tli Nov. 1864, this Inn was burnt down, and the older “Glockner- buch ” destroyed. The ch. also was injured. The Vienna Alpine Club con¬ tributed to repair the loss. 477 hy HEILIGENBLUT. 478 convert the lieatlien, and met with his death in a snow-storm near Heiligenblut. Buried where he was found, the little chapel erected over his grave—about an horn* above Hblut—remained for many centuries the original and only place of Christian worship in the district. The present fine Gothic ch. was built in 1443, and shelters in a monstranz the sa¬ cred phial ij inch long; and in the crypt the tomb and a figure of the saint. The walls of the ch. contain representations of the principal events of his life. THE GROSS GLOCKNER AND HEILIGENBLUT. Excursions. (a) General View of Valley .— Ascend to Kirclihof, on a hill behind, and higher than the Cal- varienberg. The graceful, slender form of the Glockner, named from a fancied resemblance in its peak to a bell (“ Gloclte ”), is well seen, with the lower portion of the Pas- terze glacier at its foot. (&) Pasterze Glacier. — This glacier stretches from its N.'VV. border, at the foot of the llolie Riffl, to its end, where the Moll —above H-blut called the Pasterze — takes its rise, a dis¬ tance of more than m. It is the largest and longest E. of the Brenner, and the 9th in order in the entire Alps. (The longest in the Alps, the Aletsch, is 15 J m. in length.) After passing a hamlet, Winhl, the path leads by the rt. side of the Moll, by the ruins of Briccius’s Oapelle, oppo¬ site to which is the Fall of the Leiterbach, the finest in the valley, and in 3J hrs. readies the Bretthoden, named also after the Empress, the Elisens-Bast. From this point the Glockner Kidge is seen foreshortened, and the lowest portion of the glacier 479 Bte. ^ii.—MOLLTHAL to GASTEIN, 480 lies below. The grandeur of the scenery is more fully developed, however, at the HoJie Sattel, 5 hi-, beyond, also, after the Em¬ peror’s visit ealled the Franz- Josefshohe. It is 8322 ft. above the sea, and looks down upon the middle and lower sections of the glacier 5 00 ft. below, and the grand ice-fall which links them together. Across are the two peaks of the Glockner, and in the distance, rising beyond the upper basin of the Pasterze, is the snowy Johannisberg. ^ hr. beyond, and opposite the Glockner, is the Johann's Hiitte, at the foot of the Fuscherkaarkopf, erected in 1833 by the Archduke John, and since frequently put in repair. The brothers Schla- gintweit occupied it for nearly a month, in 1848, while making observations upon the glacier and other physical phenomena. Behind it is the Gamsgruhe, a part of the slope of the Fusch Kaar, where may be gathered Braya alpina, Sagina bryoides, Potentilla frigida, Artemisia glacialis, Swertia Carinthiaca, Carex rupestris, &c. The neigh- bourhoocl of H-blut is rich in Alpine plants. The late Dr. Hoppe of Eatisbon, for more than 40 years in succession, made this vill. his head-quarters for botanic excursions. Interesting mineral specimens may be gath¬ ered in the moraines of the Pas¬ terze. (c) Ascent of the Glochner .— Was first climbed in" July, 1800, and by order of Cardinal Prince Salm an iron cross and a baro¬ meter were fixed upon the summit. The barometer, with its strong wooden case, disappeared only in the winter of 1852-3. No other attempt was made for more than 30 years. Since 1852 it has been ascended nearly every year. A record of these ascents, and of the visits to and over the Pas¬ terze, will be found in the ‘ Gloclcnerbuch ’ preserved at the inn. The ist vol.—destroyed by fire Nov. 1864 — began with the year 1818, terminated in 1856, and contained many celebrated names, such as those of Von Bucli, De Beaumont, Prof. J. Forbes, Agassiz, Studer, &c.. The 2nd commences with the signatures of the present Emperor and Empress. 3 guides are usually considered .neces¬ sary for each traveller, and 5 for a‘ party of 2, though of late many have limited themselves to 2 guides. The entire cost for guides and provisions, from 30 to 35 fl. The usual implements, such as alpenstocks, crampons, ropes, ice-axes, and veils or dark glasses, should be pro¬ vided. Time required, from 20 to 24 hrs., varying according to the weather and state of the ice. The usual course is to start in the afternoon, follow the Moll as far as Winkl, opposite the Goss- nitz Waterfall, cross that stream, and ascend the slopes of the Kroeherberg, on W. side of the valley. After passing the cha¬ lets “ am Trog,” the Leiter, an affluent of the Moll, is crossed, and the Katzensteig (cat’s path), on the Leiterberg, is entered upon. This is a steep slope, scattered over with loose fragments of sliding slate, on the verge of a precipice, at whose base, varying between 60 and 240 ft. below, rushes the Leiter- bach. Its difficulties have been exaggerated. The hut of the Sennerinn at the Leiterbach— the resting-place for the night— is reached in from 2^ to 3 hrs. from H-blut. The Ochsenhutte, about 500 ft. higher up, on 481 the other side of the stream, is often used for the same purpose; but the lower hut is said to be more commodious. The start in the morning should bo made early —between midnight and I A.M. —to allow of the snow being crossed before it is atfected by the sun’s rays. The ist stage takes the tra¬ veller, in from i§ to 2 hrs., to the foot of the Letter Kees (glacier), to a spot called after the Cardinal Prince Salm, the Salmshohe (8791 ft.). Here he erected a stone hut, but it has long been in ruins. From this point the glacier is ascended to its upper end, where crampons are re¬ quired for the further steep slope to the Hohenwartscliarte (10,428 ft.) a notch in the ridge between the Kellerberg, rt., and the Holien- waHslwj)/, 1 . Time, hr. Here another hut for shelter was built by the cardinal, and named after his vicar-general, Hohenwart ,* but this is also in ruins. In f hr. from this point—over snow—the Adlersruhe^ (Eagle’s-rest), 11,337 ft., is reached. A third stone cabin was erected here by the Cardinal; and though now with¬ out roof, it is useful as a shelter from the wind, and generally serves as the half-way house, where refreshment is taken be¬ fore commencing the ascent of the lower or 2nd peak of the Glockner. The route now takes a N.W. direction, keeping on the E. side of the arete to the berg- schrund at the foot of the 2nd peak. The more laborious por¬ tion of the day’s work now begins. The slope of this peak, as of the higher one also, is often at an angle of nearly 60°, and re¬ quires from 200 to 300 steps to be cut. Its summit, affording ivp. Tyr. & Alps. 482 standing-room for 12 persons, may be attained in hr. from the Adlersruhe. The principal peak stands W. of the other, and is about 60 ft. higher, or 12,454 ft. above the sea. The Scharte, or notch separating the 2 peaks, is a nai-row ridge less than a foot broad, and from 60 to 100 ft. long. It consists partly of ice : to pass it requires perfect freedom from giddiness View. To N. the Dachstein, Tannengebirge, Ewige Schnee, Watzmann, and other peaks of the N. limestone zone, as far W. as the Solstein, near Innsbruck, and the Zugspitze at Lermoos, with the Bavarian Plain and the Bohmerwald beyond. E. and W. the little Carpathians, the other peaks of the Noric Alps, and the CEtzthaler, Orteler, and Adamello Gebirge, the Bernina group, and Mt. Baldo, near Verona. S., the Karawankas and its highest peak, the Grintouz; the Terglou and other Julian Alps, Carnic Alps, and the whole dolomite region as far W. as the Schlern, near _Botzen,_ with the Marmolata and its glaciers j^rominent in the centre of the series. It is said that at times the Adriatic is visible. Descent about i hr. to the Adlersruhe and 45 min. thence to the Salmshohe; i hr. further perhaj^s^ to the Sennerinn; and thence, in about 3 hrs. to Heili- genblut. The passage between the 2 peaks varies much according to the character of the weather and season. In 1861—so favourable for ascents—the higher peak was free from snow; and the descent from the lesser peak to the Scharte was also free, and quite easy, down great steps of chlorite R hy HEILTGENBLVT. i! 483 hte. m.~MOLLTHAL to GASTEIN, 484 schist, of which rock the Glockner consists. The bridge, however, was much lower than usual, ren¬ dering the ascent of the principal peak more difficult. Tire tempe¬ rature on the summit—without wind—was 38° Fahr. {d) Ascent of the Johannisherg, 11,580 ft .—This is a snow-peak standing at the N.W. side of the rim of the cirque enclosing the upper snow fields that feed the Pasterze. It is a glacier expe¬ dition of the first order, and aflbrds a near view of most of the phenomena of the ice-world. The Johannshiitte may be made night-quarters; and thence, as¬ cending the glacier, and passing by the W. side of the Klein Burgstall, it takes 6 hrs. to the summit, and about 3 more back to the point of starting, (e) Ascent of the Stanziwurdi, 8872 ft. — This can be easily effected in 4 hrs. from Dollach, 8 m. below H-blut. The view of the whole valley, as well as of the snow-peaks which shut it in, including those of the Schoher group opposite, is very extra¬ ordinary. The Johannisherg espe¬ cially shows itself to great advan¬ tage. Warmly recommended by Von Sonklar. (/) Visit to the Ruins of the Gold-mine on the Klohen .—These consist of the remains of a miner’s house (Knappenstube), two adits, and a heap of refuse ore, with bones and fragments of clothing, and lie close under the S. side of the ridge, uniting the Klohen with the Spilhnann on the W. The mine (95 80 ft.) is the highest that has been worked in the German Alps, and, after those on Monte Rosa, is the highest in Europe. The melting of the glacier in 1857 and 1859 laid the remains bare for the first time. Date of abandonment unknown. The passage from H-blut to Bad Gastein is usually made by the Bauriser Tauern. A guide is necessary; as far as Bu- cheben, 4 fi., and thence to Bad Gastein, 3 to 4 fl. more and provisions. The ascent commences imme¬ diately behind H-blut, and at the Mariahilf Chapel, IJ hr., the route enters the upper part of the Tauernthal and becomes j steeper. All vegetation here ceases, and in front nothing is seen but a vast expanse of wild desolation and fields of snow. Looking back is a grand view of the Gross Glockner and its gla¬ ciers, and down over the Mollthal. At the Sauerbrunn is a spring of | hr. j delicious water. Next the Hochthor, or summit of theljhr pass ( 8 46 4 ft.), marked by a wooden cross, is reached. Scene wild and imposin g; the light grey wall of the j TJbergossene Alp (Ewige Schnee) seen in the distance N. Descent steep, keeping near the stream, over snow and loose slate, the shattered | fragments of the Brennkogel 1 (9895 ft.), which is in view on 1. Snow-poles mark the route. [I hr. below the summit, after the first steep descent, a path diverges 1., which leads into the Fuschthal. It winds round the base of the Brennkogel, passes the Mitterthorl, and after a trouble¬ some walk of 2^ hrs. from the Hochthor, reaches the Fuscher- thorl (7923 ft.). Here the whole 485 hij HEILIGENBLVT. 486 of the Fiischtlial bursts upon the view. Nearly opposite is the snowy pyramid of the Gross Wieshaclthorn (11,737 ft.), con¬ nected by a series of snow peaks and an amphitheatre of glaciers, closing the head of the valley, with the Gross Glockner, whose slender obelisk comes into view from behind the Sinnibellech (10,731 ft.), a little way down the Fuseli side of the Thorl. The square-cornered, flattened pyra¬ mid, bare of snow, that stands out to the front overlooking the Fusch valley, is flie Hohe Doch (10,708 ft.). The highest branch of the Fuschthal, which turns W., is called the Kciferthal, the scenery of which is extremely fine. A long but easy descent leads by Petersbrunnen to Fer- leiten (Inn or Tauernhaus) in about 3 hrs., and to the baths of St. Wolfgang in hr. further, taking a shorter path by the E. side of the stream at a looint a little below Ferleiten. Thence to Bruch, in the main valley of the Salzach, is 2^ hrs. (Ete. 230). In reverse order, it is 4 hrs. good walking from Ferleiten to the Fusclithor, and 2 hrs. from Fetersbrunnen.] [^Another and more direct route from H-blut into the Fuschthal is by the Pfandelscliarte (8816 ft.) 1. As there is a glacier at the col and the crevasses var3q fine wea¬ ther and a guide are desirable. The path strikes upwards to rt. from the Wallner Iliitte, above the foot of the Pasterze. As¬ cent steep. It takes 4^ hrs. to reach the glacier from H-blut, 1 hr. to cross it, and about 4^ more to reach the baths of St. Wolfgang. The descent into the Fuschthal, over debris and alp. is also steep, and continues on rt. of stream from the glacier to the Traunerhiitte, comfortable chalet quarters, where milk and cheese may be had. Thence in 15 hr. to the Tauernhaus, or Fer¬ leiten, and Irj more to St. Wolf¬ gang. The views of the Glockner and Pasterze on the ascent, and of the Kaferthal and the Wies- bachhorn on the descent, are magnificent. In the distance to the N. are seen the Zeller See, the Ilundstod, and Watzmann. For the traveller who is not bound to the Pinzgau, the Fusch¬ thal is still well worth a visit; and an interesting excursion of 2 days may be made from H-blut by crossing the Pfandelscliarte to Ferleiten the first day, and returning the next over the Fusclithor and Hochthor.] The Tauernhaus is reached, 2 hrs. after turning a corner. It will supply bread, cofiee, and sour wine, and stands at the upper limit of the forest zone. Beyond is the Spitzbacli, forming a beautiful I hr. cascade. The valley the traveller is descending—the Seidlwinhl —• is solitary and monotonous, and clothed in forest. After becom¬ ing narrow, it opens at last into the main Eauristhal, at Worth, or Vorstand. This 21 hrs. vill. stands at the junction of the 2 branches of the main valley of the Eauristhal, the Seidlwinkl, and the Hiittwhikel. At a time when an active commerce was carried on by means of pack- horses over the Hochthor, it was much more lively than now. R 2 488 487 Me. 24:4:.~-3lbLLTHAL to GASTEIN. Here a choice among 3 routes, over the ridge separating the Eam’isthal from the Gasteinthal, offers itself. (a) 1 ]i. Kauris {Inn: beimBrauer, one of the best in the neighbour¬ hood), a vill. showing signs of past prosperity, derived from the mines worked at the head of the Hiittwinkel. The innkeeper shows a large dish of majolica, and 2 smaller ones date 1542. From hence there is a pass into the Gasteinthal, over the Lug- gauerscharte (6690 ft,), in 5 hrs., down to a point half-way between the Dorf and Hof Gastein. (h) Select the path that leads E. of Worth over the Zuhwegalpe and Pfandlscharte, and, winding along the side of a spur of the Tiirchelwand immediately above Hof Gastein, descends into the valley nearly at that vill. (c) Ascend the Hiittwinkel by a stony and dirty path to 1 hr. Buchehen {Inn: Moser’s), pret¬ tily situated on a projecting spur overlooking the valley. Fine view beyond from near the ch. of the snowy plateau of the Scharreclc (10,453 ft.) and of the Alteiikofjl or Tramerkopf (9643 ft.) to its rt. The Bass of the so-called Goldberg (9069 ft.), leading down to Fragant in the Mdllthal, lies between them. From this vill. the ascent leads E. through forest to the ridge 3 hrs. Auf der Stanz (6920 ft,), no guide needed; thence the path leads down the Angerthal on the other side, opening into the main valley between Hof and Wildbad, and so on to Wilbad Gastein. 4 Boute by the Goldzecher Tauern into the MuUthal. An interesting route over this pass into the Mdllthal below H-blut maybe made by ascending the Hiittwinkel above Bucheben. In 3 hrs. Kolm Saigurn, or Im Kolben (5277 ft.) is reached. Good quarters are to be found at the mining superintendent’s house, and good guides for the ascent of the Ilohen-arr (not Ho- hen-Narr) 10,690 ft., the highest peak of the Goldberg group. The ascent from the glacier to the arete is difficult, and steigoisen and ropes are necessary. Tune liom Kolm Saigmm from 6 to 8 hrs. Tlie View extends from the Terglou E. to the Orteler Spitze W.; while the Marinolata is visible S., the Daclistein N.E., and the Watzmann N. The view of the Grossglockner and its neighbourhood is magnificent. The so-called “ Centralgneiss,” forming the axis of this part of the main chain, is here filled with quartz veins, containing gold, which have been worked from the earliest period and have given the name to this group of mtns. The mines on this route are on the Carinthian side and immedi¬ ately under the pass. They are surrounded by glacier, and have been for some years abandoned. The highest {Christophstollen) is 9367 ft. above the sea, the third highest in Europe. The pass lies between the Ilo¬ hen-arr, rt,, and Sonnenblich or Goldzechhorndl, 1 ., and thence down by the Zirmer See into the Klein Fleissihal, and thence 1 to Pockhorn, at its lower end. h-i'- 489 Bte. 2 ^ 5 .—VIENNA io BRJJCK, hy MARIAZELL. 490 where it opens into the Mollthal. 9 hrs. from Kolm Saigurn to H-blut. Three other Fusses lead from Im Kolben into the Mollthal. The track ascends first by the Neuhau and along the E. border of a glacier in 2 hrs. to the former Bergliaus (7310 ft.), which is now used as a sort of Tauernhaus, where night-quarters maj'^ be had, and -perhaps provisions. From this point,—the First Pass is that over the Goldberg or Fra- ganter Tauern (9069 ft.), between the Herzog Ernst (9697 ft.) and the Klein Zirknitzscharte, the pass next described. Time, I5 hr. from the Bergliaus to the col; then down over the compara¬ tively uncrevassed W'urtenhees, . and past several tarns into the 'Wurtenthal, and so to Fragant. 8 hrs. altogether. With this pass may bo united the ascent of the Scharreelc (10,45 3 ft.), a peak further E. than the Herzog Ernst. It may be climbed without particular difficulty in 3 hrs. after leaving the Tauern track. The Second is' that over the Klein Zirknitzscharte (8854 ft.), t]ie usual track from Gastein to H-blut—in 12 hrs. From the Berghaus it lies a little to W. of the first pass, and E. of the Tramerkopf or Altcnkogl (9643 ft.). Then, instead of descending to the Wurtenkees, turn rt. or S.W. along the E. slope of the Altenkogl to the Klein Zirknitz- kees, and keep on its W. border down to the Gross See (7992 ft.). The Kagele See, where the pas¬ tures commence, follows; and then to Ddllach in 7 hrs. from the Berghaus. The Third, over the Tramers- charte or Windischschartl (8929 ft.), shorter than the second, but not passable every summer. From the Berghaus the track coasts along the icefall of the Gold- bergkees, and then ascends to the col W. of the Tramerkopf. Descent by the Gross* Zirknitz- kees. From this point 2 routes :— One, straight down the Gross Zirknitztlial to Ddllach. The other coasts along and across the glacier on the S. slopes of the E. and W. Tramerkdpfe, and thence ascends gradually to a col in the ridge running S.W. from the Goldberg Spitz (10,064 ft.). Descent to thn Klein Fleiss- kees. Thence to Pockhorn and H-blnt. Ete. 245.-VIENNA, partly by Ely., to MAEIAZELL and BKUCK, on the Mur. VIENNA (by rly.) to _ _ eng. m. Miirzzuscblag, quick train in 1 g 3 hrs. 20 min.f Miirzsteg. 15 Mariazell. 22 Bruck. 40 160 Since the opening of the Vienna and Trieste Rly. the iron rd. is the usual route taken by a traveller bound for Mariazell. The scenery of the Semme- riug is thus combined with that of the 491 Ete, 24 : 5 .—VIENNA to BEUCK, hy MAEIAZELL. 492 rest of the route. From MUrzzuschlag to ]\IUrzsteg, in 2 hrs., 6 fl. for 2 horses; to Mariazell, in 6 hrs., 2o fl. Between Mariazell and Bruck a mail-car travels in 9^ hrs.; a seat can be engaged in it for 4 fl. Roads good, except between Maria¬ zell and Bruck, but very hilly. This route affords access to some of the wildest and most romantic scenery in Upper Styria. For the route as far as Miirzzu- schlag, see Ete. 247. Murzzuschlag (Inns: Bahnhof Eestauration : Brauhaus), a vill. prettily situated on the Miirz, at the S. base of the Semmering. A good rd. ascends the wooded Ddbremilial N., and past several ironworks, to 5 m. Kapellen. [Here a road comes in from N.W. that leads over a low col and down the Preinthal to Bayer- bacli, a stat. on the N. side of the Semmering rly.] 3 m. Neuherg (Inn: Weissapfel, good). The ch., date 1471, con¬ nected with a Cistercian monas¬ tery, is of fine proportions, and the crypt below is worth seeing. The cloisters, still in good con¬ dition, contain portraits of all the abbots. The monastery was closed by the Emperor Joseph IT. in 1782. The valley grows narrower and the scenery improves. Large Government ironworks are passed. h m. The Track, partly over dehris, for the ascent of the Sclinee Alp and of its highest peak the Wind Berg (^787 Ft.), which overlooks the valley N., turns off on rt. Time 5 hr. m. Krampen. Here more Govern-, ment ironworks, with large stores of timber for charcoal, are passed. Murzsteg (Inn: Post or Adler), 5 Between the Wind Berg on N. and the Hblie Veitsch S. The rd. now leaves the Miirz, which comes down a valley on rt., and continues ascending W. to the summit of the pass. Niederalpl (3950 ft.). Fine? view of the Ilochsclumh (7741 ft.) in front; looking back is the Sclmee Alp and Wind Berg. [From Miirzsteg a good path¬ way to Mariazell, offering better scenery than the carriage rd., may be taken by the pedestrian up the wild and narrow valley of the Miirz N. After 1 ^ hrs. walking, the valley becomes so narrow that the rd. is, in places, taken over planks supported by iron stanchions. At the Todte Weibl a stream rushes out of a cavern in the rock overhead to fall into the Miirz below. A car may be taken to the mouth of the Todte Weibl glen, and, after seeing it, the traveller can return to go by the usual carriage route to Mariazell. In 20 min. from the Todte Weibl, In der Freien is reached, a vill. of a dozen houses in a small valley-basin, possessing an inn of 10 beds in 2 rooms, used by the pilgrims to Mariazell. From this vill. 2 routes to IMariazell present themselves. The one ascends the car.-rd. W. 10 m., where it falls into the main rd. between Mariazell and Bruck, and on to Mariazell it¬ self in 6 hrs. The other takes a path that strikes off to rt. from the rd. just mentioned, at a sign-post ^ hr. from the vill., and reaches in f hr., close by a 2nd representation 493 Bte, VIENNA to BBUCK, hy 3 IABIAZELL. 494 of St. George, the Freynsattel. To the h is the StudentJwgl, and in the distance, N.W., the bare peak of the Oetscher (6319 ft.) The descent is directly down; and after 20 m., and below a 3rd St. George fixed to a tree, the path divides. Take the 1 ., which leads jiast a charcoal-burner’s, in 5 hr. to the Salza. Cross the stream to gain the road on the N. side, and descend the valley. After a steep ascent, from the summit of which the Diirrenstein and HocJiscliwah and towers of Mariazell are seen, Mariazell is reached in 2 hr. from the passage of the stream. A guide for this route is hardly necessary, as the way, once en¬ tered upon, is clear. The Freyn¬ sattel, however, is not advisable after rainy weather, as the ground is in many places slippery from mud.] Gm. Wegscheid, a vill. in the main rd., where vorspanner are in readiness for the ascent either of the Niederalpl or See- berg. The rd. crosses the Asch- bach 3 times, and where it falls into the Salza are the 6 m. Imperial Iron-Works and Can¬ non-Foundry, in a beautiful situa¬ tion, erectecl in 1740 ; the largest of the kind in Austria {Inn: very good; in the evening officials from the works are to be met with). The place for testing the cannon is I hr. from the works, and the trial usually takes place towards evening. It would bo better to make this Irn bead-quarters for excursions, rather tlian Mariazell, where the influx of pilgrims might interfere with the comfort of the traveller. The road now descends t|ic Salza valley (here called the Hallthal), and near the point where it leaves that stream on rt. stands upon a rock the old St. Sigmund’s Chapel, originally built as a fortress to protect Maria¬ zell from the Turks. Destroyed by the Hungarians under Mat¬ thias Corvinus. Maria Zell (2744 ft. Inns:^111. Post; Lowe, not dear; Mayer's ; Greif; Goldner Krone), in a picturesque position in a valley- basin surrounded by wooded mtns. of various form. It is the most important place of pilgrim¬ age in Austria, and attracts an¬ nually 100,000 pilgrims. Though consisting mainly of inns, yet at the period when the great pro¬ cessions arrive—upwards of 70 between IMay and September; that from Vienna on 1 st July, and that from Gi atz on 14 th Aug. •—all the rooms in the better inns are bespoken for the entire week. Has been almost entirely rebuilt since the last fire in 1827. The church is the centre of at¬ traction: one of the handsomest in Styfia. Its Gothic central tower (269 ft. high) and the por¬ tion between it and the W. end are alone ancient, dating from the original construction in 1363, when Lewis, ist King of Hun¬ gary, built it after a victory over the Turks. The rest of the build¬ ing is in the Italian style. In the central nave is the richly- ornamented Shrine of the Madon¬ na, containing the holy wonder¬ working image, said to be 700 years old, of lime-tree Wood, painted black, 18 in. high, seated in a chair, holding the infant Saviour, clothed in the costliest stuffs and glittering with jewels. 495 Bte. 2 ^^.—VIENNA to BBUGK, hy 3 IABIAZELL. 496 12 silver columns adorn the shrine, and the railing in front, also of silver, was presented by theEmp. Leopold and enlarged hy Maria Theresa. The stone chapel enclosing the shrine was built in substitution of the wooden Cell {Zelle), originally the sole protec¬ tion of the image, in the latter part of the 12th centy.,by the Margrave Henry of Moravia. The shrine is surrounded by a constant crowd of worshippers. The pulpit is of red j)orphyry. The high altar possesses an ebon cross; the 2 first Persons in the Trinity of life-size in silver ; and below the cross a silver ball, 6 in. diameter, representing the world and en¬ circled by a serpent; all a present from the Emp. Charles VI- The icalls of the ch. are covered with votive offerings. The treasury is full of gifts, the offerings of pilgrims for many centuries. Amongst them are a topaz, given by Joseph II.; a diamond cross, by Maria Theresa; Zach Werner’s golden pen; old missals, silver altars, &c. The portal is fine, with representations of the his¬ tory of the foundation of the ch.; in its centre an ancient marble bas-relief of the Crucifixion. An extensive trade in provisions, and in relics and rosaries, is carried on in numerous booths that surround the ch. in a semicircle. Excursions. a. The Calvarienberg has a good view; but a better and wider one can be obtained from the Burgeralpl (4131 ft.), N., reached in i hr. 1 ). llolzaufzug (Wood-elevator), 2 m. from Maria Zell, by which timber is raised in waggons to the summit of a ridge, to be thence thrown into a stream which carries it down to the Danube. c. Erlafsee, 3 m. N.W. of Maria Zell, approached through the Grilnau, where is a waterfall. There is an Inn (not bad) by the lake, and a canoe. d. Ascent of the Oetscher (6319 ft.). By way of Mitterbach, a vill. 3 m. N. of Maria Zell. Thence 2| hrs. to Hagerbauer, where stands the abandoned Ch. of St. John in the Desert; in 3 hrs. further, over hilly ground, to Kollmer or Spillhichler, the last cottage at the S. base of the mtu. Here night-quarters may be had. From this point i hr.’s climb gains the Biffel, a saddle be¬ tween the Klein and Gross Oet¬ scher, and in J hr. rt. is the Ochsenhiitte, where a shelter for the night on straw, but no¬ thing further, is to be met with. The summit is reached in 2 hrs. from this point. As the summit rises clear and wide of its neighbours, a great number of distant points are visible, and nearly the whole duchy of Austria is below to N. Like the Untersberg, near Salz¬ burg, it is famous for its clefts and caverns (Goldloch and Wind- loch the most important), invisible lakes, and legends of good and evil spirits. The flora is a rich one. e. Ascent of the Goiter (5777 ft.) 12 m. E. by N. of Maria Zell, on the rd. to St. Egydi, following the Salza nearly to its source. Its summit is said to offer an ex¬ traordinarily extended panorama, in some points superior to that from the Schneeberg, near the Semmering Ply. /. Lassing Waterfall. The high¬ est in Lower Austria; scenery beautiful and flowers numerous; 497 Bte. 2 ^ 5 .—VIENNA to BBUCK, hy MAEIAZELL. 498 readied througli Mitterbadi, N. of Maria Zell. The route follows the main rd. N. over the Josephs- herg (3136 ft.), from ■which a line vieW of the Hochschwab and Oetscher, to the hamlet Wiener- hruclte. A signpost near the inn points out the way to the Fall, reached in | hr. There are, how¬ ever, 2 paths, wdiich diverge after crossing the bridge over the Las- sing : the old Avay to rt. is recom¬ mended to be taken in going, and the new way in returning. The Fall is in 3 stages : total height, 412 ft. For 2 florins the sluice- master will cause the sluices to be raised to swell the fall! ^At Mitterbadi is the boundary between Styria and Lower Aus¬ tria {Oesterreich unter der Enns). The main rd. N.E. from Maria Zell passes through it and over a series of steep hills, through Tyrnitz {Lin: Post); Lilienfeld, near which is a Cistercian abbey, the wealtliiest and oldest in Aus¬ tria, founded in 1202, with a fine Gothic ch., mostly of that date; several interesting monuments, library, old pictures, natural his¬ tory collection, and fine garden with noble view N., and a collec¬ tion of alpine plants; Marldel; Wilhelmsberg; to St. Polten, a stat. on the Vienna and Salzburg rly., 52 m. Ete. 195.] [From Maria Zell, following the Salza S.W. below the Govern¬ ment cannon-foundry, a rd. leads through Weichsdboden, Eeifling, Hieflaii, and thence either to Admont or Eisenerz (Etes 246, 241, and 242).] The route from Maria Zell to Brack retraces the rd. as far as (Vorspann here for the Seebcrg.) Wegscheid, and a little dis- 9 m. tance beyond it turns to rt. to ascend the W. branch of the Aschbachthal. After passing the GoUrad ironworks, whence the ore for the cannon-foundry is ob¬ tained, Brandhof (3662 ft.), once a 5 m. Farin cottage of the Archduke John—now of his son, the Count of Meran—is reached. Permis¬ sion to visit it need not note he obtained at the cannon-foundry. Finished by the Archduke in 1828, it consists of a ground- floor of two wings with an octagon chapel in the centre. Behind rises the Aflenzer Starriz, a peak of the plateau of the Hoch¬ schwab. The chapel contains a taber¬ nacle for the Host {Sacraments- hduslein), beautifully carved out of cedar-wood from the Lebanon; oratories in carved oak to rt. and 1. of the entrance with two pic¬ tures above them by Schnorr; an altar of grey marble, under¬ neath wdiich is the crypt the Archduke built for himself. He has temporarily, however, been interred at Gratz, but is destined eventually to rest in Schloss Tirol, near Meran. The hall, in Gothic style, has windows of painted glass and statues of Ferdinand of Tirol, Charles II. of Styria, the Em¬ perors Maximilian I. and Francis I., and Maria Theresa. The Hunting Chamber (Jiiger- zimmer) has windows of painted glass representing scones of Al¬ pine life and portraits of the Emperors Maximilian I. and Francis I., the Archduke himself, and of Hofer. Below the last is placed Hofer s own rifle. The furniture in the private rooms is 499 Hie. 2iG.—3IARIAZELL to EISENERZ. 500 of Siberian pine {Pmus cemhra). In tlie Garden is a fine collection of Alpine plants. There is a magnificent pair of horns with 32 tines. The steeper portion of the ascent of the Seeberg (4098 ft.) now commences. From the sum¬ mit is a fine view down a pictu¬ resque and most charming valley shut in by rocky masses. At the S. foot of the Seeberg is 2|m. Seewiesen {Inn: Post, de¬ cent, not dear), beautifully situ¬ ated at the foot of the Aflenzer Starritz. [A very interesting route may be taken from Seewiesen to WeicliseTboden (Ete. 246), on the N. side of the plateau of the IlocJischwah. In 2 hrs. a chalet for nightquarters is reached and thence the summit of the Hocli- schwab (7441 ft.) gained in 4 hrs. From the peak to Weichselbodeu is 4 hrs. more. The magnificence and wildness of the Styrian mountains is well displayed in the ravines of the Hochschwab. A guide and provisions can be obtained at the Inn.] highwaymen who infested the road at that period. Beyond, the road crosses the river Miirz, and enters the Vienna and Gratz high-road at Kapfenberg, a Stat. on the 11 Vienna and Gratz Ely. Brack on the Mur, Stat. on 24 same Ely. (Ete. 247). Rte. 246.—■ MARIAZELL to EISENERZ, by WILDALPEN. MARIAZELL to ENG. ir. Weichselbodeu 16 Wildalpen . 12 Palfaii . . 12 62 ENG. M. Hieflau . . ii Eisenerz . . ii The route now descends the \ alley to its mouth at 7 m. G-rasnitz whence it has to make a long detour and ascent to reach the little town of . 9 m. Aflenz {Inn: good), in a wide opening of the Stiibming Thai. A little distance beyond, the road enters the narrow Tliorl in which are several iron forges, and the ruins of the ScJdoss Scliaclienstein, built by an abbot of St. Lambert in 1465 to protect pilgrims bound to Maria Zell from the knightly This rd. is now available for 2-horse cariiages. 2-horse conveyance from Ma- riazell to Wildalpen, 15 fl.; thence to Hieflau, 12 fl.; thence to Admont, 7 fl.; thence to Lietzen, 6 fl.; thence to Aussee, 12 fl., including tolls and trinkgeld. i-horse carnages will be charged two- thirds of the above. A good will take 6 hi\s. from Mariazell to Weichsel- boden, and 4 hrs. thence to Wildalpen. This route, lying almost en¬ tirely in the Salzatlial, is one of the most romantic and interesting excursions which the neighbour- liood of Miiria Zell affords. Tlie Weichselbodeu portion of it is in a deep ravine shut in by preci¬ pices which, fi'om their height, 501 life, 24:Q.—MARIAZELL to EI8ENEBZ. 502 uninterrupted character, and the wild solitude of the scene they enclose, give a most imposing aspect to this gorge. The Fla- teau of the Hochschwah shuts in the Salzathal on the S. almost the whole of the way—one of that series of vast upreared iso¬ lated masses, such as the Steinerne Meer, Dachstein, Schnee Alp, &c., which characterises the North Limestone Zone of the Alps. 3 m. Imperial Cannon Foundry (K. K. Gusswerk; Inn: good), For the rd. to this point see Kte. 245. The route now leaves the rd. to Bruck on 1 . and turns S.W. to descend the Salzathal. [Another route to Weichsel- boden from this point over the Kastenriegel may he taken by the pedestrian, and possibly also by a car. Take the rd. to Bruck as far as Wegscheid, Then turn to rt. along a rd. ascending through forest that was once the late Archduke’s route to his Hunting lodge. Follow this past the Dqoi^ehvand, ?ind for some distance along the edge of the Rmg, down to the Hunting lodge at its en¬ trance, and through the Hdll- hoden to Weichselboden. It affords access to the seenery of the Eing from another quarter; and as chamois are abundant it is possible that some may be seen among the rocks on the opposite side of the Eing.] 6 m. Greuth {Inn: Kreuz, a pea¬ sant's inn). At some distance beyond this village the rd. leaves the stream on 1 ., and ascends a ridge,—the Hals, passing at the top a finger-post pointing to the Hoclisclmab (7441 ft.), here finely displayed. Ascending and de¬ scending alternately, the rd. reaches the small lateral valley of the Radmer, and by it arrives at the curious caldron of Weichselboden {Inn: 8 beds? m. in 3 rooms, but food and wine good), an open level meadow shut in by high walls of rock with 4 narrow entrances. By one of these the Salza enters the open space, and by another leaves it; that on the N. side is the opening into the Eadmerthal, and that on S. is the gateway into the Hollboden. Excursion to the Hochschwah. Two routes lead to its summit from Weichselboden. a. Proceed to the Hollboden f hr., and thence ascend to the Nieder Ring (4467 ft.), a circular amphitheatre shut in by preci¬ pices, I hr. Above is the Hohe Ring (5282 ft.) 1 1 hr., a p)reserve of the Count of Meran, and in which no one is allowed to shoot without special permission. It is a favourite place for a Treibjagd, when 50 to 100 chamois being driven into it by the huntsmen and peasants are fired at by sportsmen stationed round the Eing. Thence through the Tlas- serschlucht, Ochsenreichhar (6172 ft.), Schwabenleiten, and Sclmab- enbodendl, to the peak in 3 hrs. more. b. All easier course is to walk to the so-called Archduke’s Reit- steige, and thence by the Edel- boden in 3 hrs., where night- quarters on straw may be had, and thence by Siebenbrunnen to the peak in 4 hrs. more. Guide, 3 fl.: provisions to bo taken. The Panorama includes the 503 Bte, 2^Q.—MARIAZELL to ETSENEBZ. 504 mountain-land between the Gross Glockner and Dachstein W. and the Hungarian plain E.; and from the Danube Valley N. to the Terglou S. Eight other peaks rise from the plateau, but the Hochschwab is the loftiest. The rd. continues down the valley, closely shut in between the rocks, and passes the im. Bresceniklause or dam, the narrowest point. Here the rd, is taken through a tunnel. A little further it crosses the Salza elose by a pretty waterfall, and ascends to a considerable height above the gorge in which the stream dashes along. After descending it reaches 5 m. Im Gschoder, a small group of houses shut up between rocks ; above, is the Gsctioder Kahr. Some distance further on 1 . the Brumithcd opens with the Brunn Bee close to the road. G m. Wildaipen (Inn: Zisler's, near the ch., very good and cheap), a scattered village, opposite to the point where the Seissenbach descends its valley to join the Salza. There are several iron- forges in this side valley. The neighbourhood is extremely ro¬ mantic ; and there are tine views of the peaks of the Hochschwab Plateau. Benches have been joro- vided everywhere for the enjoy¬ ment of the best points of view. Excursions. a. To Ilieflau. Take the rd. leading S.W, up the Wildalpen- thal, through Kleinwildcdpen and by the Fiomperlhach in 4 hr. to the Ool Auf der Waclif, In the Middle Ages this pass was fortified, and there is a small inn there now. Thence down the Schwabelthcd to Lainbach on the Enns in 3 hr,, and in i more to Hieflau. h. To Eisenerz. A packhorse route leads by the Seissenbach, and then through the wild ravine of the Sclireier to the Eisenerz- hohe (4760 ft.), marked by a cross, 3 hrs. Then steeply down over rock and debris to a chalet on the Erzboden aim, where milk is obtainable. On the opposite side of this aim is a rd. protected by a balustrade cut out of the pre¬ cipice of the Zargenhopf, which descends by several steep wind¬ ings to its foot. The finest part of the scenery is at this point. The Forester s house close to the Seebach^ is If hr. distant from the Erzboden Aim. The rd. from this point ascends and descends through forest past the Leopold- stein See in i hr. to the main rd. 5 hr. distant from Eisenerz. ' c. To the Siebenseen (7 Lahes). These are situated in a very soli¬ tary and gloomy forest on the plateau 8. of Wild Alpen, called the Ilollenmeister, and are ap¬ proached through a wild ravine. On 8. this forest is shut in by a crescent of rocky peaks. The Tragdsthal 011 8. side of the Plateau can be reached by a laborious climb over this ridge at the Schafhalssattel, and descending into the valley over the Androth and Handelboden alps. The route continues to descend the solitary valley, still beautiful, but not so wild. [A rd. here turns rt. to cross! the Salza, ascend the Lassing- tlial and over the ridge to Neu- oOo Me. Ul.—VIENNA to GllATZ—BAIL. 506 haus in Austria, wliere it falls into another rJ. leading E. by the Erlaf See to Maria Zell (Kte. 245).] 6 in. [Another rd. also turns rt, here to ascend along the Mendlinrj hacli, over a low col at 3 Iendling on the boundary between Styria and Austria, and down to Lassing, the first village on the other side. It continues by Litnz, Gaming, and St. Polten to Vienna. Formerly it was fortified.] Enns. A little further the rd. crosses the Enns and falls into the main rd. Hieflau (Kte. 242). 3 Eisenerz (Kte. 242). n ^ 2 m. Palfau, a liamlet. The con¬ glomerate and sandstone rocks wliicb shut in the green Salza, are here worn into singular shapes. Before reaching Palfau the rd. divides: [thebranchwbiclifollows the rt. bank and passes through Palfau descends to Beijiing through beautiful scenery, the river still running between steep banks hollowed out in various ways ;] that on the 1., lohich this route imrsues, passes Lend, and abandoning the Salza ascends to reach Gm. Gams at the mouth of the Gamsthal. Beds of the Gosau Formation are to be met with in this valley. Close to the vill. is a large quarry of sandstone, which provides the building stone for the furnaces at Eisenerz and Kadmer. Four lirs. N.E. of the vill., in the Brandenstein, is an Ice-Cave (en¬ trance 1866 ft. above sea;, where the ground, walls, and roof are covered with ice. It also con¬ tains true stalactites. Steigeisen are necessary in visiting it. The next village is 2 m. Lainbach, at the mouth of the Schwabelthal, and close to the Rte. 247 . - VIENNA to GRATZ (Rly.), over the SEM- MERING. VIEXNA to ENG. M. Baden . . i6f Neustadt . 14 Gloggnitz . i6.i Semmering. 17 JMiirzzuschlag 9 ENG. M. Brack . . 26 I'eggau. . Hi Gratz . . 12 Ii2i Trains 3 limes daily; express in 5i- hrs., the 2 others in 8.]- and 94 hrs. The express is ist class only, and travels on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur¬ days. At Nabresina Junction it is in correspondence with the train to Venice, Verona, and Milan. In summer an addi¬ tional morning train to Neustadt in ijhr. Besides the fares a Government tax of 15 per cent, is demanded. Luggage, 50 lbs. free. Refreshment-rooms at Miirzzuschlag, Gratz, Marburg, Stein- bruck, and Nabresina. For the best scenery, as far as Gloggnitz, sit on rt. side dl' train; for the Semmering, on 1. The rly., which will continue to be one of the most remarkable engineering works in Europe, though it may hereafter be sur¬ passed in boldness by the pro¬ jected and unfinished lines of the St. Gothard, Mt. Cents, and the Brenner, was, as concerns the 507 Bte. 2^1.—VIENNA to GBATZ—BAIL. 508 Semmering portion, begun in 1848, and opened on the 17th of July, 1854. It was executed for the Government by the engineer Carlo Chega. South of Neustadt it runs through very beautiful country. The gradients are too steep to admit of much heavy goods traffic. Tlie basin or plain across -which this rly. runs S. is the southern half of a tertiary basin bounded by the hills of tlie Wiener Wald \V., the Leitliagebirge E., and the Danube N. It ends at its S.W. corner at Neunldrchen, 40 m. from Vienna. Here the approach to the Semmering commences. Seven streams from the Wiener Wald send their waters into this plain; the valleys they flow through are full of picturesque scenery and generally wooded, supplying charcoal for numerous iron-works. Euined castles and modern chateaux are frequent. The scenic interest culminates in the neighbourhood of the Schnee- herg (6809 ft.), the highest peak of Lower Austria, lying W. of Neunkirchen. The entire Vienna basin (N. and S. of the Danube) is interest¬ ing in a botanical point of view as being the meeting-ground of 3 great floras,—the Northern or Baltic Flora, the Hungarian or Steppe Flora, and that of the Alps. The Vienna terminus of the rly. ( Wiener Sildhalin) lies outside the Belvidere Linie on the S.E. of the city, near the new Arsenal. At a short distance it crosses the high road, and then runs S. nearly parallel with it over an open country without hedges or wood. The first stat. is Park of Schdnhrunn, laid out in the French i8th cent style. On a height within is seen the Gloriette, a hall of columns, 300 ft. long, 60 ft. high. From its summit is a fine view of the city. 1 . on the Wienerherg, a little short of Meidling, is a Gothic cross with 4 statues, date 1547, repaired r599» called the Spinne- rin am Kreuz, erected by Crispin Pollitzer. From it is one of the best views of Vienna, but Danube not seen. Hetzendorf Stat. Here is 2 another Imperial pleasure-place and park, and a junction line, for goods traffic only, with the W. rly. to Linz, &c. Liesing Stat. A large brewery 2 with rock cellars is i^rominent. Fi'om this j)oint an interesting excursion may be made into the valleys of the Wiener Wald, immediately S. of the Imperial Thiergarten (a preserve for wild swine), hj Kalksburg, Breitenfurt, and over the ridge 1.; retui’ning by Kaltenleitgehen and Bodaun to Liesing. Brunn Stat. Another large 1 breweiy, and vineyards with Castle Ruins. Beyond, towards the next stat., are seen the old and the new Scliloss Liechtenstein, with a Gothic Chapel and large Park. Modling Stat., a large vill. 1 {Inn: Hirsch, second-rate), sur¬ rounded by vineyards and villas ; wine poor. One of its 2 churches, 8 t. Othmar’s, once belonged to the Templars, and has a subterranean chapel, date 13 th cent. [The beautiful rock valley of 2 |m. Meidling. Rt. is the Imperial 609 nte. 2in,— VIENNA to GHATZ—RAIL. 510 the Briihl opens out here W. With the surrounding heights on each side, it belongs to Prince Liechtenstein. Behind the ch. ’ are footpaths leading up to an old tower, the remains of the family residence of the Baben- berg IVIargraves of Austria, and i thence round the shoulder of the hill, through plantations, within view of a most pleasing land¬ scape, including the Danube, to the modern Schloss Liechtenstein, with an English garden, but containing^ nothing worth notice. Close by is the old Schloss, the cradle ot the family, and one of the most ancient strongholds of Austria; destroyed by the Turks. A torture-chamber shown in it. The rooms of the old Schloss are, in summer, at the service of a Vienna restaurateur for picnics. Opposite, upon the ridge of the Siegenstein, is tlie Husaren tempel, erected by Prince John to the memory of 5 hussars of his regi¬ ment, who saved his life at t?ie cost of theirs at the battle of Asperii 1809. View finer than that from the Schlos,s—as far as the Schneeberg S. A carriage-road ascends the valley past Vorder and Ilinter i Briild {Inn: Weiss Kreuz) and Gaden to the Cistercian monas¬ tery of IleiligenJcreuz, founded 1134 by St. Leopold. Visit the crypt, with tombs of the old Ba- benberg princes; the cloisters, with side chapel, rich in painted glass; and in the treasury see a fragment of the Holy Cross brought from Palestine 1182 by Leopold V, To 1. is a road wliich descends by the Sattelbach, a branch of the Helenenthal, to I Baden (see below). The main road continues across the ridge and descends to Allancl in the Helenenthal proper, and thence down to Baden.] [Beyond Mddling Stat. a branch rly. forks otf 3 m. E. to the vill. and Imperial Palace and Park of Laxenhurg {Inns: Stern; Ungar- ische Krone), watered by the Sweehat from the Helenenthal. The favourite residence of Maria Theresa, Joseph II., and Erancis. Both old and new Palace not worth entering. The fruit and flower gardens closed; but the Park is always open, and is beautifully laid out. See the Knights' Crypt (Ritter Graft); the Knight s Castle (Erauzensburg), a inodern-antique castle in a lake, which is a museum of middle-age antiquities, portraits, and statues; its tower, a torture-chamber, and from the top fine view of the Schneeberg and Styrian Alps W., and of the Leithagebirge S.E. See also the Turnierplatz, Temples of Diana and of Harmony, &c.] Guntramsdorf Stat. ^ 2[ m Gumpoldskirchen Stat. A vill.] m. at the foot of the Anning Berg (2205 ft.), from wbich a fine view over the Wiener Wald and the Steinfeld or plain near Neustadt. One of the best Austrian wines grown here. After passing through a short tunnel and Pfdffstetten Stat. the rly, reaches Baden or Baaden Stat. (Inns: 3 f m Stadt Wien; Schwarzer Adler; Lowe; Cafe at Stat.), a town frequented by Sunday excursion¬ ists from Vienna, which has grown up round certain ancient sulphur-springs, known in the time of the Romans; 7000 per¬ sons yearly take the baths. The principal spring issues out of dolomitic limestone at the foot 511 Bte. 2i7—VIENNA to GRATZr-MAIL 512 of the Calvarienberg: from its summit a View over the plain to the Leithagebirge beyond; rt. is the modern Schloss Weilburg, a summer residence of the Archduke Charles, and tlie Ruin Raiihenech, accessible by paths and strong- ladders ; 1 . is the Ruin Raulien- stein, once a robber’s castle de¬ stroyed by Maximilian I. The town lies on the Schwechat at the opening into the Helenen- thal W., in the midst of vine¬ yards ; and consists almost entirely of lodging-houses and baths. The best baths are the Sauerhof, the Frauenhad, and the CaroUnenhad ; the principal promenade is the Theresiengarten. [Tlie Helenenthal is the daily resort of the bathers, who take coffee and ices there at numerous cafes. Scenery like Matlock. Its woods are intersected by paths leading up to the Ruins Bauheneclc and Raulienstein, and to Schloss Weilburg already mentioned, and further on to the Eiserne Thor (2719 ft.), the highest point and finest view in the district. Some distance up, a rock, the TJrihelstein, is pierced by the carriage-road, which is continuedby the Krainer- hutten (refreshments) to the Ileili- genlcreuz Monastery 8 m. (see above). Thence the Bruhl may be descended to Modling. Another excursion is to ScJdoss Merlcenstein, containing pictu¬ resque ruins, a fine Park, and old trees, which may either be reached by a shorter path over the ridge of the Lindkogl S.; or by the carriage-road through Voslau, GainfaJirn, and lladelliof, 8 m.3 2 | m. Voslau Stat. (Inn: Schweizer- hof). An excellent wine (red and white) is grown here, much used at Vienna. Mineral springs; villas. Kottingbrunn Stat. is passed. Leohersdorf Stat., opposite the 2 i entrance into the charming Tries- tingthal. Near are large tile and teiTacotta works. The summit of the Schneeberq comes into view S.W. [The first vill. in the Triesting- tbal is St. Veit; then follows Bernsdorf, where large new alpaca-works, to Potteiistein (Inn : Hirsch), the principal place. 1 . a good road leads over the Hals (fine view) to Bernitz in the Piestingthal. hr. beyond Pot- tenstein a road turns rt. to ascend the Hafnerberg, and descend to Alland in the Helenenthal (see above). On the ascent are the ruins of the fortified ch. of St. Baneras, and of another ch.; and upon the summit a pilgrimage ch., date 1743. J hr. further is Alten- marht (Inn: Lamm), at foot of the IIocheclc(sA02ft.), 2| hrs. to sum¬ mit. From it is a noble view, especially to N. About 3 hrs. beyond is Kaumberg (Inn: Gol- denen Kreuz). On the ridge, 15 hr. S.W., are the ruins of Schloss Araburg, said to be well worth a visit. The road con¬ tinues W. of Kaumberg over the Wiener Wcdd ridge fo descend to Ilainfeld,St. Fe?Y, and at last Trai- sen, on the high road;—S. to Maria Zell byLilienfeld (Rte. 245); and N. to St. Polten, a stat. on the Vienna and Salzburg Rly. (Rte. 195).] Immediately after passing Sole- nau Stat. is Felixdorf Stat., a manu-df facturing vill., established 1823 by Felix Miesl, a Burgomaster of 513 Rte.^^ 1 .—VIENNA to GRATZ—RAIL. 514 Neustadt. Fine view S.W. of the Wand (3720 ft.), and beyond, of the Schneeber^. [i| hr. rt. is the entrance into the Piestingthal. To reach it ■Stcinabruckl and Government Nvorks for the manufacture of rockets are jDassed. At WuUers- dorf, which stands on 1. side of the entrance, are Eoman remains, and near is a large cavern with wide passages leading to a hall with pulpit, its opening protected by an old tower, the Ildlltlivrm, once used as a place of refuge from tlie Turks, i hr. higher- up is Piesting {Inn: Hirsch\ with brewery ainl iron-works. Iir the vicinity are the ruins of Schloss Starliemberg, belonging to tire Archduke Leopold. Irr its court- 3 ^ 11 x 1 J 00 wiirdows maybe counted. Lr r5 29, and again in 1683, when Vienna was besieged by tlie Turks, this castle sheltered thou¬ sands. ^ hr. beyoird is Oher Pies¬ ting {In]i: Zum Griineii Baum). Tlie valley repeatedly closes iiird opens, and after passing WaldecJc reaches In der Oed, over¬ looked by the Mandling (3043 ft.) N., and by the Kressenherg (2905 ft.). Here is the large brass- foundry of the Rosthorns, occu¬ pying 300 hands, with a school and hosirital. i hr. further is Beniitz (good Inn). The main valley now turns S W., and narrows to a gorge, wdiich opens out suddenly into a charming basin, with Guttenstein {Inns: Zum Baren ; Presoli ) at its oppo¬ site side, about r 7 m. from Wol- Sersdorf. Near Guttenstein, upon a height (2592 ft.), is the much visited pilgrimage ch. of Mariahilf, and a monastery (Serviteirklosteri. The entire mountain is laid out as a Park, and otfe-rs nunrerous Kp. Ttjr. & Alps. fine views at points where chapels have been erected or cut out of the rock. Close to the ch. is an J«a,aiid some small booths. Near is the Friedenstempel, erected fis a memorial of the Peace of 1814, with an echo of ri syllable.-*. h’he ruins of a Schloss (of i rth cent.) overlook Guttenstein from a rock 200 ft. high. Mathias Corvinus lived here about 1450, and stories are told of the 'rurks who were once in possession. The ruins are open to visitors, and made accessible by stairs arrd galleries. The modern Schloss, built 1674, and renewed 1818, is near, and has gardens well worth a visit. Count Hoyos is the pro¬ prietor. Several routes lead forward out of Guttenstein;— a. 1. up the Ldngepiestingthol, and over the Oeller or saddle Am umgestiirztenKreuz {^222 It.), with a view of the Sclmeeberg S. down into the highest part of tlie Sier- ningthal—the Mamau—to Buch- herg, 4 hrs. (See below.) h. Ascend the Klosterthal to the Rothen Hofe, r J hr.; then, 1 . by the Schober hut (bauer) over the Schober, hr.; and finally down a woody ravine past the Haltburg Hof, either 1 . to Sieriring or rt. to Buchberg, r J hr. more. c. Another path diverges at the Rothen Hofe from the last, and reaches Beiblhof irr 2 hrs.; then to 1 . through the Wdden Nessel- graben to the Mamauwiese i hr .; over the HuhnerbUhel i hr.; and down to Buchberg 15 hr. A very interesting and picturesque route; the Schneeberg appears quite close. d. A good carriage-road runs up the Klosterthal and over the rkla-e Das Gsehaid, and either 515 ate. 2il.—VIENNA to GBA TZ~RAIL. 51G turning 1. descends the romantic gorge of the HollentJial to Bayer- Zacli, a stat. (see below), about 24m.; or, turning to rt., ascends the valley to Schicarzau {Inn), about 15 m. Beyond Schwarzau the road turns W over the ridge into the Traisenthal, whence is a road S.W. to Maria Zell, and N. through Lilienfeld to St, Polten, a stat. on the Vienna and Salz¬ burg Rly, (Rtes. 195 and 245). e. A path up the rocky and romantic valley of the Steina- ^nesting, the entrance to which is overlooked by the Schloss, to Steina; and onwards over the ridge 1 . to S. of the Steina Berg down to Rohr at the head of the Hollenthal, about 6 m. above Schwarzau vill. already men¬ tioned.]] Babenbergs, converted in 17 5 2 into a ^resit Military Academy by Maria Theresa. Over the entrance is a statue of Frederick IV., and in the ante-court one of the Empress as foundress of the Academy. In one of the rooms are portraits of pupils who afterwards, like Ea- detsky, became famous. The old chapel, date has fine painted windows; under its high altar lies the Emp. ^Rlaximilian I., and at his feet his faithful friend Dietrichstein. Scientific collec¬ tions of all kinds enrich the insti¬ tution, and large gardens are attached. Admission is best ob¬ tained between 12 and 2 p.m. In the Neuldosterliirclie, not far distant, behind the high altar, is an admirably carved monument of Eleonora of Portugal, wife of the Emp. Frederick III, date The rly. now leaves the hills and makes a straight course across the plain to 4 | m. Neustadt, or Wiener Neusfadt, Stat. {Inns: Hirsch; Ungar Krone ; Kreuz ; Lowe ; Stadler’s, close to the stat.), next to Vienna the principal town in Lower Aus¬ tria. Since the fire of 1834 almost entirely rebuilt and surrounded with a wall. Was the favourite residence of Duke Leopold, who fell at Sempach, 1386, the birth¬ place of Frederick IV., the last Babenberg Prince, and of the Emp. Maximilian I. It is the seat of manufactures in silk, cotton, and cloth, also of hard- ware,'machinery, and locomotives. A canal 3 8 m, long, made by the Emp. Joseph II., carries wood and building - stone, with coal, from near Oedenburg in Hungary, to Vienna. ' On the E. side of the town is the old Ducal Schloss of the 1467. The Parish church, in the Eo- manesque style, is a fine building, with 2 good towers. Imbedded in its outside wall is a curious memorial of the execution in 16 71 of 2 Hungarian counts for treason. Outside the gate leading to Vienna, on 1 ., stands a beautiful Gothic ci'oss, the Krispinkreuz, similar to that on the Wiener- berg near Vienna, and erected by Duke Leopold, 1382. In the Toivnhall (Eathhaus') is shown a magnificent silver goblet 2 ft. high, a memorial of a peace between Frederick III. and Mat¬ thias Corvinus of Hungary. 7 m. S. on the opposite bank of the Leitha is Frohsdorf. In 1816 its Schloss belonged to Murat’s widow, Caroline Bonaparte; now it is the property of the Count of Chambord. The principal Excursion from Neustadt is to the charming lUe. 211 —VIENNA to OFiATZ—nATL. 518 517 valley of tlic Neue Welt, once the bed of a lake, and to llie llohe }Vand, a wonderful Eock* wall which overlooks it. The Avay to it lies by Fucliau, on the Fischa Bach, a vill. at the foot of the line of hills that shut in the Neue Welt on E., and about 4 m, W. of Neustadt. Thence to Brunn, and beyond through mea¬ dow and wood, up the hills to Dreistetien at the N. end of the Neue Welt. From this point the Neue Welt itself may be traversed b)^ Mu thmannsdorf, where is a view over the valley, and Gaden, to Stolliof. Opposite this place the gorge of the romantic Frosset- schlucht opens out W. Upon a height near stand the Enins of Emersberg, belonging to the Archduke Leopold, and offering a fine jDoint of view; opposite are the ruins of the old fort Dachenstein. At Teiclimiilde, not far off, is a good Inn. The cir¬ cuit of the valley may be com¬ pleted by proceeding through Maiersdorf, Ziceiersdorf, to Griin- hacli at the S. end of the Neue Welt. The Hohe Wand (2592 ft.) can best be seen by ascending at Drei- stetten, passing along its ridge S,, and d^cending at Griinbach. A guide is necessary, and provisions should be taken. In 2 hrs. from Dreistetten the plateau is reached. There are several fine points of view, but the best perhaps is that of an elevation to 1. half way between the Hiitteln and the Jdgerliaus. E. the Neusiedler See is visible; to N. Vienna; to S. the Schneeberg ; and to W. the Oetscher, and the wooded ridges of the Wiener Wald. The view over the precipitous edge down into the Neue Welt and neighbouring valleys is most charming. Griinbach is i hr. from the S. border of the plateau. The descent to it is steep, and in Avet weather slippery. Others recommend as preferable the ascent by the ncAv liorsc-path made by the Archduke Leopold to his hunting-hox on the Wand, Avliich commences at Peisching, i hr. above Pisting, In the Hohe AVand are moie than 30 larger and smaller Caverns; those most usually visited arc the GypslocJi, WindlocJi, Leitergrabenhohle, and VoUeringrotte. [A rly. branches off from Neu¬ stadt S.E. to Oedenhurg in Hun- gary, not far from the briny and shalloAV (9 to 13 ft. deep) Neic- siedler See."} The main line turns now S.W., and enters upon the Stelnfeld, a barren level surface, consisting of a hard compact gravel of lime¬ stone pebbles covered with a vein' thin soil. At St. Egyden Stat. the Schnee-i^ m. herg and Baocalp are finely in vieAV. To rt. in the distance is the Avell-preserved Schloss Seben- stein, belonging to Prince Liech¬ tenstein ; and another Schloss, Fiiten. The rly. continues its straight course to _ Neunkirchen Stat. (Inn; 4 f m, Hirsch), a small manufacturing town with cotton factories and manufactures in hardware. The Counts Hoyos lie buried here. A legend explains the origin of the name Neunkirchen. _ [The Sierningthal may best be visited from here. For pictur¬ esque and charming scenery it takes the first rank among the s 2 519 rue. 2il.—VIENNA io GRATA—RAIL. 520 xVlpi'ie va.lleys of Lower Austria. Mucli frequented by parties from Vienna. The next stat., Ternitz, is nearer the entrance, but cars are not always to be had. A stellwagen, however, was in 18O5 projected, to run from Ternitz to Bucbberg. inquiry should be made for it. Carriage from Neun’circhen to Buch- 'berg, 5 flor.; from Bucbberg to Ternitz, 4 flor. At tlie entrance of the valley is the vill. St. Johann, and beyond, the picturesque chapel of St. Pan- eras and the vill. SiecUng. In -2 Ill’s, the fine ruin of Stixenstein, belonging to the Hoyos family, XJcrched 011 a high rock, and overlooking a narrow part of the valley, is reached. The valley continues very narrow, and the road often runs through fine beech-wood past the opening into the Rolirhachgrahen 1 ., until it opens into the basin of Bucliherg, <)| m. from Neunkirchen {Inn: Doppler’s, near the ch., good), and a few minutes further the liamlet of Siernlng {Inn: Zum Dergmann, good'. The houses lie scattered about the basin, and the cburcli stands on a hill along with the ruins of the Schloss Buchberg. Nearly the whole of the Schne^herg is visible. Above Buchberg the valley is called the Mamaii, and a good road ascends out of it to join at the Gschaicl the road from Guttenstein in the Kloster- thal to the Hdllenthal (see above). Excursions. (a). To the Pavilion on the Roineilcogel, a spur of the Him- berg. This is not far distant, and offers an excellent view of the Schneeberg and the basin of Buchberg. The hamlet of Sclmee- berg and Ruins of Losenheim are seen on the opposite slope 8. below the peak of the Kaiserstein. (h). To the Waterfall of the Sebastianhach, 135 1 ft. high, i hr. higher than Buchberg. (c) . To the hamlet of Schnee- herg, and to a picturesque water¬ fall beyond: there and back 3 hrs. (d) . Ascent of the Ilimherg, and to the Allelujaholde. The cavern is a stalactitic one, of no great importance, but can be com¬ bined along with the ascent of the Himberg. This is taken best from Siernlng, and the summit of the Himberg is 5 fir. beyond the cavern. View of the whole valley, the Schneeberg, part of the Klos- terthal mountains, and the plain at Neustadt. (e) . Ascent of the Katherein- Schlag (4222 ft,), the highest peak of the Oeller, in the ridge N. of Buchberg. Exceedingly fine view of the mtns. from Guttenstein to the Oetscher beyond Maria Zell. Ascent easy. There and back in 4 hrs. (f) . To the ruins of Schloss Schrattensfein, in the Rosenthal, These lie in an extremely pic¬ turesque locality, 3 his. N. from Buchberg, over the Streugherg. View of the Schneeberg from the top of the ridge very fine. The way back may be varied by descending the narrow gorge of the Schrottenhach to Wirfiach, which has a ch., and near, the Sebastianskapelle, both protected by ivalls. This vill. stands at the outlet into the plain, about 3 m. from Neunkirchen. {g). To Reichenau in the Hoi- lenthal S. Follow the ordinary route to the Schneebei g(described below) as far as the Kaltewasser, 2 hrs. Thence to Bursthef, and 521 Bie. 2VJ.—VIENNA to GBATZ-BAIL 522 beyond, tliroiigli the Gahnswald, to the Bodenwiese, and from that descend to Reiehenau, coming ont close by the IFeiSS/i/a: Inn. Total time to Reichenan 5 good hrs. (/j). Ascent of the ScJinceberg (6809 ft.). The mass of the Hocli Schneeberg, whicli presents a pre¬ cipitous face to the Hollenthal S., ends in 3 peaks; the central one, Alpengipfel, the highest; the Kaiserstein (6739 ft,), the most northern, with a pyramid in memorial of two visits of the Emp, Francis I; and the Waz- riegel( 6 iSj ft.), the most southern. The more usual route to the central ])eak is taken from Bncli- berg. Passing the ch. and ascending a ravine 1. of the JTengst to an alp, and from it through wood, with a view down into the Rohrbachgraben, 1., the path takes the traveller by a large block of rock, the Grim- stern, to a delicious spring, the Kaltev'.asser, in 2 hrs. 'I'he further track leads steeply over the Krumhachsattcl, with a tine view, to tlie ridge iSchneich), hr.; and thence either to Baum- garten’s Alpcnhaus (beds: and the only spring at this height), and so to the summit ; or more direct by Bainstehi, the Luchs- hoden, OcJtsenhoden, between the Waxriegcl and the central peak, and the steep Konigsteig to the top. A bare hut on the Ochsen- boden is the highest place of refuge from bad weatlier. Total time to summit about 5 J hrs. Horses can be taken as far as the Ochsenboden. There is another route to the cCTitral peak by the Sehastianshach and the Mamauwiese, Trenlaoiese, to a saddle between the Fioliri- bachwand and the Hochschnee- berg, in 6 hrs. View: to W. the various lime¬ stone masses as far as the Dach- stein, and mojc to S. either the Hafner Eck or lloclialmspitze ; the Styrian Aij)s; and to N. and E. large portions of the lowlands of Austria Moravia, and Hun¬ gary, with Vienna, Neusiadt, Fresslmrg, and the Neusiedler See. Instead of returning to Bueh- bei'g. the traveller may descend into the Hollenthal to the Inn Zur Singerin (good), opposite the opening into the Nassthal, 4 hrs. from tlie liy. stat. Bayerhack ; or descend to Beiehenau (2 good Inns;, ^ hr. from Bayerbach. Through the exertions of a represen¬ tative of the Vienna Alpine Club a tariff lor guides and horses has been established in Buchberg,and may belearntat the Inna, Vhe of the parish and his curate (Co-operator) will be glad to give useful inlonnatiou to strangers.] The rly. now enters the valley of the Sclucarzau, the most southern lateral valley of the Vienna basin, and passes Ternitz Stat., 2 J m, Pottschacli St:it., to 2 | m. Gloggiiitz Stat. {Inns: at the 2 | ra, stat.; in the vill., Ziun Alpen- horn.) On a hill near is a stately Schlo.ss, until 1803 a Benedictine Abbey, now used for various offices. The ch. has some good jiictiires and a crypt. To S, is the Sonnenwendstein, 499^ ft. At this stat. the mountain portion of the rly. may b ' said to commenco. 'i'he usual locomotives are < xchanged lor more 523 llte. 2^1.—VIENNA to GRATZ-BAIL. 524 powerful ones; and a long train is often divided into 2 or j, of 4 or 5 carriages each. The clistanco from Gloofornitz at o o the N. base of the pass, to Miirz- zuschlag at the S.,—16 m.,—is performed by quick trains in I hr. 40 min., by slow in 2 lirs. 17 min. The main tunnel, which is also the highest, is 1555 yds. in length. The highest point of the rd. is in this tunnel, at a height of 2791 ft. Gloggnitz is 1356 ft., and Miirzzuschlag 2144 ft. above the sea; tiie ascent therefore from Gloggnitz to the tunnel is 1435 ft., and the descent to Miirzzuschlag 647 ft. Alto¬ gether there are 15 tunnels, and about 2 m. of tunnelling. The line rises in gradients varying between i in 40 and i in ico, the steepest incline being that between the stats. Baycrbach and Eichberg. It is a double line throughout, sweeping up the sides of the hills in rapid curves. Quitting Gloggnitz, the rly. ascends the 1 . bankof the Schwarz- au, passing several pretty villas and a large government paper- mill (Schlogelmuhle), and crosses the stream on a curved viaduct, 80 ft. above the valley, upon 5 large and 8 smaller arches, not far from 4| m. Bayerbach Stat. {Inn: Madcr’s, cheap, clean, and good). A mountain hamlet in a charming position, overlooked by the Schneeherg and its fellows N., the Preinalp (6201 ft.), and Raxalp (6574 ft.) W., and the 3-peaked Semniering S, .'Vn omnibus goes from the stat. to Heicherau in 20 min. [The ScJiicarzau, rising far to N. in tlie Wiener Wald, takes a S. and then S.E. course, pressing in between the precipitous faces of the Sclmeeberg mass N. and the llaxalp S., and emerges at last into the Vienna basin at Neunkirchen; beyond, it flows E. to join the Leitha on its way to the Danube. The lower por¬ tion of its valley netir Bayerbach is called the ReicJienauthal; beyond, the gorge portion bears the name of the IloUenthal. Its scenery equals, if it does not exceed in interest, that of the Sierningthal just described. Reiclienau (Inns: Fischer's, good; Waissnix’s, in Thalhof, higher up, and prettily situated, capital, but dear; both good head¬ quarters for excursions) lies at the foot of the Feuc/her (4525 ft.), overlooked by a new Schloss, an increasing summer resort of the Viennese. Iron-mines and iron¬ works are in the neighbourhood. The Villa Waissnix is a country retreat for the children of the Imperial family. Guides for the district may be heard of at either inn; there is a regular tariff. Lorenz Alfons is a botanical guide, living at rrein. Excursions. (a). To Kletsclilai s Monument. This point affords a good general view of the valley and the nitns. round. (&). 1 he Preintlial offers very fine scenery in itself; but if traversed to the Gschaid or col at its head, a track may probably be found thence to the summit of the Heu- Jiuppe, the highest peak of the Raxalp. View extends from the Dachstein to Hungary. At the vill. of Prein is a good Inn, Die alte Eklin. To this point good carriage-road; beyond, to the 525 Rte. 2 ^ 1 .—VIENNA to GBATZ-llAlL 52 G Gschaid, leading down to Ea- ])eUen (Ete. 245), not good. (c). The interesting ruins of Schloss Klamm, and the romantic Adliizcjmhcn. The return from these may be made by passing the Fidhenstein Cavern, and down the Preinthal. (fZ). A circuit through Glogg- nitz and along a branch road to Ivranichbcrg; thence S.W. across to Schloss Wartenstein, Maria ScJiutz to Schotiicien [Inn: Lamm), from which the return to Glogg- nitz is by the old road. (e). Tile Gahns (4959 ft.}; the Miifagstein (4525 ft.), highest peak of the Feuchter; and the Jacohshogel (5797 ft.), highest peak of the Griinschacher, may any or all be climbed for the sake of the varied scenery dis¬ played. (/). Ascent of the SeJmeeherg (6809 ft.). This may be effected by taking Excursion g (c. 520 ) the reverse way as far as the Kalteu-asaer, and then following the track pointed out in Excursion h (c. 521 ). It may also be made either from the Inn Baum¬ gartner Haus, at Kaiserhrunnen; from the Inn Zur Singerin, 2 hrs. further; or from the Inn Hdh- bauer, still higher up the Hollen- thal. The last is the most easy. It ascends by way of the Kuhschnee- herg, where is a hut belonging to the innkeeper. Time 7 to 8 hrs. The ascent by Buchberg from the Sierningthal, on the N. side, is, however, preferable to any of these. {g). The HolUnilial, a deep valley, with wild rock scenery of a very high order, overlookecl by mountains clothed with firs. Slay be explored in a carriage or on foot. After passing tiie opening into the Prcintlial 1. Hirsclncang is reached, a vill. of ironworks, saw¬ mills, many cliarcoal-kilns, and a large dam (Eechen) across the stream to detain the timber. From this point the gorge com¬ mences, sometimes so narrow that the road is carried over a con¬ tinuous floor of planks placed across the stream. About 3 m. farther is Kaiserhrunnen (Inn: not good), in an opening, where a spring of excellent water breaks out at the base of the Schnee- berg. Discovered by the Emp. Charles VI. in 1732, it has, along with two other springs elsewhere, been lately taken possession of by the municipality of Vienna to supply the capital with water. A track here leads up the Krummhachilial rt. for the ascent of the Schneeberg, uniting with that from Buchberg (see above) at the Kaltewasser. About 2 m. further is a finger¬ post pointing to the opening into the Grosse Hdllenihal h, a basin shut in by magnificent preci¬ pices, which are a favourite resort of chamois, and an Imperial pre¬ serve. 4 m. beyond, the entrance into the Nasstlial, possessing un¬ usually picturesque scenery, ap¬ pears h, and pleases by its contrast to the sterner Hollenthal. The Inn, Bei derSingerin (good; guides here), is opposite the entrance; Beithof {Inn: Engleitner’s, good, and guides) is the first hamlet in the Nassthal ; and beyond is Oherhof (Inn: Bei Spiess). The entrance into the upper basin is etfected by theSaiiriisselbriicJce laid lengthwise over the stream, where it rushes through the rock barrier separating the two sections of the valley. After i hr. through wood, the upper basin opens to view, shut in by the walls of the Bax- alp and Sclmeealp. A steep path 527 Bte. 2^1.-VIENNA to GBATZ-RAIL 52S leads to tlie NassJmmp, a saddle between the two; thence by the Ameisenhulil to the Schneealp. In a hut here niglit quarters are to be had. The Windherg, tlie highest peak, is about i hr. ascent from the hut. Vieio very fine of the Plochschwab mass and neigh¬ bouring peaks. From the Sohnee- alp it is 3 hrs. (steep and over gerbll) down to Nenherg (llte. 245 ); and from the Nasskamp by the Stcgenbauer’s hut, also 3 hrs. down to Kapdlen (Itte. 245). Tliere is or was much forest in the Nasstlial, tlie property of Count Hoyos. The Hollenthal, some little distance beyond, opens out and divides : the rt. branch ascends to a hamlet, Hinterleiten [Inn: Hbhbauer, good). Here the Sonn- leitstein (5600 ft.) is a very fine object W., and the Schiieeberg may be ascended by passing over the Kiihschiieeberg. Beyond, the road leads to the GscJiaid, or col leading to Guttenstoin in the Klosterthal, or turning rt. down to Buchberg (see above). The main brancli continues a N. course, about 3 m. beyond the fork, to Schirarzau, a vill. of woodcutters, Protestants. 2 m. farther the road is taken over tlie western ridge to llolienherg, and thence to Lilienfeld in the Traisenthal, and to St. Fblten, on the Vienna and Salzburg rly. ;Rte. 195).] Leaving Bayerbach, the rly. ascends S.E. with rajiid incli¬ nation, as if returning, but at a higher level, towards Gloggnii2i, and gaining ns it rises fine views 1 . of tlie Gahns, Ftucliter, and Schneeherg. Crossing 4 Graben by as many viaducts, and passing through 2 tunnels,. \ Eichberg Stat. is reached. Soon the rly. makes a great bend round the shoulder of the mountain, and, catching a distant glimpse of the Steinfehl ami Lcithagebirge, enters a tunnel. On emerging the traveller looks down upon a narrow valley, up which the Vienna post-road is seen to make its way, passing near a large- cotton-mill, and through the vill. Schottioien {Inn: Lamm), named from an early settlement of Scotch or Irish monks. Above it, on the opposite slope is the pilgrimage ch. of Maria-Schutz. Two castles face each other here: opposite is Schloss Wartenstein, still partly inhabited, and belonging to Count Caraccioli; on this side, the ruins of Schloss Klamm, perched on the top of a precipitous rock. Through 2 more tunnels, and the rly. enters Klamm Stat. The ruined < Schloss belongs to Prince Liech¬ tenstein; it dates from the nth cent., and was inhabited till fired by lightning 60 years ago. For¬ wards, W., is the romantic Adlitz- graben. A series of magnificent engineering works now follow in rapid succession — the Klamm tunnel; the viaducts of Jagergrahen and Gamperlgraben, each of 2 rows of arches, one above the other; and 4 tunnels cut in the face of the Weinzettelicand, con¬ nected by vaulted galleries of masonry to protect the line from avalanches of snow or stone. Breitenstein Stat. The view down into the Adlitzgraben is very charming. Spiess's Inn, and a little chapel and priest’s house in the Swiss style, erected for the rly. labourers, are below. Passing a viaduct, and through 529 Bte. 2YI.~yiENXA to GltATZ—BAIL. 530 2 tunnels, the rly. crosses the grandest viaduct on tlie line, that over the Kalte Binne, on a double tier of arches, together nearly 150 ft. high. Further on, the Adlitzgraben is crossed upon a viaduct, and 3 more tunnels and another viaduct precede the 2| m. Semmering Stat., at the N. end of the main tunnel, which leads out of Austria into Styria. Looking back is a Vieiv into the Vienna basin and towards Hun¬ gary. In winter the tunnel is protected from the eliects of the freezing of the water which pene¬ trates its roof abundantly, by doors at each end, which are kept closed except when required to be opened for a train. It is lighted with gas. The passage through takes from 6 to 8 minutes. Tlje Vienna post-rcl. j^asses over the tunnel, being carried upwards partly by zigzags to a height of 3256 ft. Here a monument com¬ memorates its construction in 1728 by the Emp. Charles VI. The Inn near (Erzlierzog Johann), is 20 min. from the station. Tlie SonnemvencUtein (4998 ft.) can be ascended in 21 hrs. from the Inn, with guide. From it the whole of the Semmering rly. is visible, and an extensive view towards Styria. Emerging fr om the tunnel, the rly. enters the Frdschnitzthal, and crosses 2 viaducts and a bridge to reach Spital Stat. The works on this side of the pass are far inferior to those on the N. side. The rly. slopes gradually down to 0 m. Murzzuschlag Stat. (Jnns: at the Stat.; Brauhaus; Elephant), a vill. prettily situated on the Miirz. [A carr.-rd. up the Bdbreinthaly through Miirzsteg, passing along the S. base of the Schnee Alp on to Maria Zcll, 33 m., turns off rt. lite. 245.1 The rly. follows the Miirz, eros,sing it repeatedly, down a pleasant wooded valley, diversi- tied with iron-works, old castles, and villages. Langenvyang Stat. If nu Krieglach Stat. Further on, 2| m, u]3on the slope, is the old Schloss Mitterdorf: the new one with 4 towers is below. Kindberg Stat. This small? m. town is overlooked by the Schloss of Count Inzaghi. Marein, a stat., follows. Kapfenberg Stat. On th.e top m. of a rock are the picturesque ruins of the Schloss of the same name belonging to Count Stuben- berg. The modern Schloss is near the rd. [The valley of the Thorlhach^ hading N. to Aflenz, at the base of the Hochsehwab, and thence through much fine scenery to Alaria Zell, 37^^ rn., diverges rt. lUe. 245.] At the point where the Miirz falls into the Mur stands Bruck Stat. (Inns: Zum Eiscn- 2 | m. balm, best, close to stat.; Adler • Mitterbrau), a small town in the midst of pretty scenery, with a large square in the centn>, and commanded by the old Schloss Landskron. In the square is a house of 14th or 15 th cent., with good Gothic loggia. 531 lite. 2^7.—VIENNA to GBATZ—ItAIL. 532 [Tlie great rd. to Venice by Klagenfurt (Rte. 250) here sepa¬ rates from the present route to ascend the Mnrthal S.W. The rd. to Eisenerz (Kte. 242) turns off from it at Leoben, ii m. from Bruck.] to Looben twice a day; once to Mariazell. I.oJinkutscher to Lcobeii, ? fl.; to Vovdernber", 6; Eisenerz, 14; Scewiesen, 10; Moriazcll, 20; Mariazell, by Eisenerz and tVildalpen, 40; Aussee, 42; Aussee, by Admont, 50; Ischl, 50; ]scbl, by the GesUuse, 60; Salzburg, by Iscbl, 70; Gaslein, 85 11 . The rly. now descends tlie narrow Murthal along the 1 . bank of the stream, and occasionally along the foot of walls of rock; past the while Schloss, Bdrnegg, the name also of a stat., to 91 m. Mixnitz Stat. In the Eothel- “ stein E. of the vill., and 1500 ft. above it, a stalactite cavern, the DracJieiilwlde, may be visited by a difficult path in i hr. Nume¬ rous fossil remains have been dis¬ covered here. 7 m. Frohnleiteii Stat., a small market-town on the rt. bank, with iron-works. Schloss Ffannherg, approached by a long avenue, is seen on 1.; and farther on, rt. is Schloss Eahenstein upon a rock, belonging to Prince Liechten¬ stein. Be5'ond, the valley seems to be closed by precipitous rocks. One, the Bodelicand, has been cut down to provide a ledge for the rly., which runs upon it under a gallery of 35 open arches. Above this gallery runs the post-road. 5 m. Peggau Stat. The vill. on 1 . bank faces Feistritz on the oppo¬ site side. Peggau has silver and lead mines. Excursion. To the summit of the Schocldherg (4713 ft.), 2 lirs. distant, remarkable for its craleri- form hollows called Wetterldcher. The rly. now crosses to W. bank, and passing Stiihing, a Stat., roaches Gradwein Stat. 2 m. N.W. 4 £- m. lies the Cistercian Abbey Rein, date 1128. On a wooded hill near is the pilgrimage ch. of Strassengel, with perforated tower, date 1355; said to have been erected by the architect of St. Stephen's, Vienna. The valley widens as the rly. approaches Judendorf Stat. Near is a cliff 2 f m. overhanging the stream called the Maiden’s Leap (Jungfem- sprungj. Beyond is the castle of Gosling, belonging to Count Attems, once besieged by the Turks, and now a place of resort from Gratz. Further on is Schloss Eggenhurg, the property of Count Herberstein; in its chapel is a monumental tablet of a Countess, by Cr.nova. The hills retire and give place to a beautiful and fertile plain 5 m. broad, 20 long, in the centre of which is the SchJossberg, and clustering at its feet is the to^vn of Gratz Stat., 1140 ft. {Inns: oii 4 | m. the rt. bank of the Mur 15 min. from the stat.— Elephant, ist class, excellent; Goldnes Eoss, and Florian, 2nd class, good ; the latter much resorted to by priests : on the 1 . bank — Erzherzog Johann, ist class, exorbitant, civil; Stadt Trieste; Goldne Krone : XJngar Krone', the capi¬ tal of Styria, with 63,000 Inhab., the seat of a university, the re- nie. 2 ^ 7 .—VIENNA to GBATZ—EAIL. 534 533 « sicicnce cf the Bishop of Seckan, and the place of meeting- of the Styrian Estates, pleasantly situ¬ ated on both banks of the Mm*, which are connected by 2 w'ooden and 2 chain-bridges. It used to be the paradise of retired officials and military men from its cheap living; many such live here still, but the cheapness has very much diminished. Since 1848 five new streets have been formed ; one of them connects the rly. stat. with the town. The Schlossherg rises 400 ft. above the IMur, and is ascended from the Carm cliterplatz. Its forti¬ fications, originally erected against the Turks, were in 1809 destroyed by the French. The hill is now converted into a place of public recreation. From the top, and especially from the stat. of the Fireicatch, is- an agreeable pano¬ rama of the town and country : N. is the Schocklbcrg ; N.W. the Styrian Alps (IIochschwab''i; S.W. the Koralpe ; and S. the Bacher- gebirge. Here is a statue of General Baron von Wclden (date 1859), and a fine clock-tower. The Mur, whose course may be followed by the eye to a con¬ siderable distance, often inun¬ dates its banks; the bridges at Gratz have been repeatedly de¬ stroyed by it, and the Murvor- stadt laid under water. The Churches are not remark¬ able : the Gothic Bom, date 1446, has a noticeable \V. portal, in Avhich 1 . are the Austrian arms and the motto of its builder Frederick IV., and rt. those of his wife Eleanor of Portugal. At the entrance to the choir arc some relics of saints. In the Stadfpfarrhirche (Herrengasse) is an altarpiccc by Tintoretto. Near the Dom is the Mau¬ soleum —key with Dom-Sacristan —of the Emi3. Ferdinand II. (died 1637), a neglected chapel in the Italian style; a slab at the side marks his grave. In a vault beneath lie his father the Arch¬ duke Charles II. (died i5 90),~and his mother, a relentless ])ersc- cutor of the Protestants. Maria Theresa of Savoy, wife of Charles X. of France (diod 1803), is buried here. Here too the Archduke John (died 1859) is temporarily laid; but his remains are in¬ tended eventually to rest in Schloss Tirol near Meran. They arc without a monument. The Cemeteries are outside of the town; crowded Vvith dead. In St. Peter’s, Gen. von Weldeu is interred; and in St. Leon¬ hard’s, Gen. Ilaynau. In front of the Theoire, one of the best in the provinces, is a statue of the Emp. Francis I., by klarchcsi of Milan, in the robes of the Golden Fleece. The Landhaus (Herrengasse), date 1569, was till 1848 the place of meeting of the Styrian Estates. It contains the Ducal Hat, worn by the Emperor when he receives the allegiance of the Styrians. One wing is used as an Arsenal^ and contains many thousand suits of old rusty armour. The Itatlihaus is in the Haupt- wachplatz. In front the ring¬ leader in the great rising of the peasants was beheaded in 1516. The Johanneum (Eaubergassc) is an institution founded by the Archduke John, 1811, for the en¬ couragement of the arts, sciences, and manufactm’es in Styria. In it gratuitous lectures are delivered by professors; it has a Lihrary of 53,000 vols., and a Natural History Museum. Its mineral- ogieal collection is very rich. r,te. 2 \ 1 .—VIENNA to GBATZ-EAIL and the specimens deserve notice for tlieir beauty and excellent arrangement. A Botanical Gar¬ den is attached to the IMuseum ; and a farm for Agricultural Ez- perinients lies near the rly. stat. In tlie Reading-room to the Jolianneum are many newspapers; strangers introduced have 14 days’ free admission. The Bessoiirce (Albreclitsgasse') is an establish¬ ment upon the plan of a London club; has a good restaurant and fine suite of rooms; strangers must be introduced by a member. There is a Picture-gcdlery near the Postplatz. It does not contain inuch of importance ; among the pictures are Tiiians Bathsheba in the Bath ; Raima VeccMo's IMa- donna; portrait of Mary of Bur¬ gundy, wife of Kaiser IMax I., by Cranach', a Tintoretto', and a bust of Gen. Haynau. The Emp. Ferdinand II. was born in the Burg, and the Ori¬ entalist von Hammer, Baron Purg- stall (died 1856), was a native. Gratz possesses 2 good Cafe's: Cafe IMeran in the Fischplatz, and Cafe Heinzer in the Herren- gasso. It is supplied with ex¬ cellent beer from Vienna; has several kinds of good native ivhie —the Luttenberger the strongest, and several good Hungarian wines; and is noted for its iiu’keys and capons. The lowest fare for a Fialcer is 63 kr.; Lohnhutscher are nume¬ rous; the usual hire is 16 flor. a day. including back fare. Excursions. a. To the ruins of Sehloss Cos¬ ting, 3 m. N., near the rly. See ahive. h. To the Schuchlhcrg (4713 E. of Peggau, and 4I lirs. from Gratz. Extensive view. Ste above. c. To Sehloss Eggenberg, not far from rly. stat., at the foot of the Geisberg, a large quadrangu¬ lar building with 3 courts, and a tower at each corner. Passed in 16th cent, by marriage from the Eggenbergs to the Herbcrstcins. a"" favourite place of Sunday resort. d. To the Schicanberg Alp, or Kor Alp Spitze (7009 ft.\ morfi vsualhj ascended from Wolfsberg,. Lavantthal, see Rte. 253. Take the 8 A.M. train on the Koflach line as far as Liboch, 9 m. A post- stell wagon in correspondence with the train takes the traveller in 3 hrs. to Stainz (Inn: Stoger’s, good). After 2 hrs. stay it pro¬ ceeds by Landsberg in i hr. to Schicanberg 'Inn: Bei Grasser,. good . The next day early, with Fellner, a good guide, by Gressen- berg and Sta. Maria in 5 hrs. to Forsthaus Bcirenthal, where re¬ freshments may be had. Thence by Ilirschtietzen—h'om. which a grand view looking down on the source of the Su.hn—m 3 hrs. to the summit. Vietv extensive : — down the Lavantthal S., and beyond, the Petschenkogl, with the peaks of the Caldron of the Steiner Alp behind it; Klagen- furt with the Morther See; the range of the Sau Alpe opposite; N.W. theGrossglockner and other snow-peaks ; N. the Hochschwab; N.E. the SchCcklberg and Gratz ; and E. and S.E. the Hungarian and Croatian plains. Sometimes called the Speihh'ogl, from the abundance of Valeriana celtica found upon it. Several interesting plants grow here, such as Silene pumilio,. Mxhringia- dicersifolia, Senecio cordatus, Saussurea alpina. Cam¬ panula alpina, &c. 537 Ille. ‘14:S.—G11ATZ to TIUE8TE—RAIL 538 The return to Gratz may be made the same way ; or, by de¬ scending tlie valley of the Sulm (Rte. 253) to Leibnitz (Rte. 248), on the rly. 21 m. S. of Gratz. Char from Schwanbcrg to Leib¬ nitz, 4 fl,, in 4 hrs. Shonld the traveller wish to go forwards into Carinthia, he can descend the W. side of the Kor Spitzein 3 hrs. to Wolfsherg (Inn: Pfundner’s, fail’), with Count Hen¬ kel’s fine new Schloss (Ilte. 253). Thence the post goes at 4 a.m. over the Grilfnerberg in 3 hrs. to Griffen, where are ruins of a Schloss upon a lofty isolated rock, and by Volkermarld to Klagenfurt in 5 hrs. more (^Etes. 253 and 250). [A branch rly., made for the transport of hroicn coal, leads from Gratz S. to Frerastetten, and then turns at a rt. angle up the Kainachthal N.W. to Kojlach, 26 m., in 2 hrs. Thence is a road over the GraJbensattel ft-) N.W., and down to Judenhurg in the Murthal, 27 m. (Rte. 250). Or, by a stellwagen in corre¬ spondence to Wolfsberg S.W. in the Lavantthal (Rte. 253)]. Rte. 248.—GBATS to LAI¬ BACH and TRIESTE (Ely.); with. Excursions to the Quick¬ silver MINES of IDEIA, the LAKE of ZIRKNITZ, and the CAVES of ADELSBEEG and PLANINA. GRATZ to EXG. >r. EXG. If. JIaiburg - 40 f Nabresina . 4 oi Cilli . . • 4^?^ Trieste . . 12 Stciiibruck . i 6 i — Ijaibach . 230 Adelsberg . 4 oi -— Trains 3 times daily; express in 9} hrs.; the 2 othens in ii| and 145 hrs. For further particulars see ilto. 247. Owing to unusual engineering difficulties nearly 15 years (1843 to 1857) were consumed in con¬ structing the rly. (Karst-balm) between Laibach and Trieste. The influence of a southern climate begins to be felt at Gratz. The rly. runs S. parallel to the course of the Mur, and across the plain to Karlsdorf Stat. Rt. is Schloss m. Premstetten, belonging to Count Saurau; the mtns. in the distance W. separate Carinthia from Styria. Beyond 1 . is Schloss Weisseneck, belonging to a Vien¬ nese. Wildon Stat., where the Kai- 7 | m. nach stream joins the Mur, and the Gratz Feld ends. On rt. bank of Mur the ruins of Schloss Ohtr Wtldon on a rock 600 ft. above the stream, where the astronomer Tycho Brahe' made observations. The new chateau, with towers, belongs to Baron Claudius. ‘P-lM tMM Ki.|50 ^|l_, 539 Rle. 2\8.— GIiATZ to TRIESTE—HAIL. 510 m, Letiring Stat. Here the Leih- nitzer Feld (102,900 acres) opens out. m. Leibnitz Stat., supposed to he the Ivoman Marcola. Et. is the chateau of the iDrince-hishop of Seckau on a ^YOoded hill; 1 . Schloss Lcibecli. After crossing a remarkable trellis-bridge over the Sulm, where it joins the Mur, the rly. runs to m. Ehrenbausen Stat. Upon a wooded height is Count Attem’s Schloss of same name ; and near, a Mausoleum of one of the Eggen- hergs. The rly. now runs along the foot of the liills to m. Spielfeld Stat., where is a Schloss of Prince Eggenherg, once the Duchess of Berry's. About 5 m. distant across the plain N.E. is Schloss Brunnsee, now belonging to the Duchess. [From this stat. Eil- and Stell- wagens go in 4 hrs. N.E. to Bad Gleichenherg, known to the Eo- mans, and since 1834 much re¬ sorted to. One of the springs (Constantine’s) is briny and alka¬ line without Eon ; the 2 others are strongly chalybeate, with car¬ bonic acid. Above, on a rock inaccessible on 3 sides, is the old Schloss belonging to the Traut- mannsdorf family, and still in¬ habited. 2 hrs. N. on the N. side of the Eaab is the very re¬ markable old hill-fort Riegershiirg, perched on a mass of volcanic conglomerate 400 ft. above the Eaab, a conspicuous object from' far and near. A winding road' cut in the rock leads through 7 distinct gateways into the castle. The Chapel contains the burial- vault of the Purgstall family, and an altarpiece by Krafit. It is the only Styrian castle that re¬ sisted all the attacks of the Turks]. The rly. now quits the IMur. which flows on S.E. to join the Drave, to cross a range of steep hills—the Blatscliberg,OT Windisclt Biiolieln —sej^arating the Mur from the Drave. At Possnitz Stat., it passes over a? m. viaduct of 64 arches, and 2100 ft. long, and soon after through a tunnel of nearly similar length to Marburg Stat. (Inns: StadtP;^ m. Mcran, near the stat.; Stadt Wien), a dull town, the 2nd in Styria, on the 1 . bank of the Drave (Germ Drau), at the foot of the Bachergebirge, and at the northern comer of a triangular plain which extends S.E. to Pet- tau —the Pettauer Feld. In its neighhoiuliood excellent wines — < Picherer, Radiseller, &c. — are grown. [A branch rly., opened June, 1863, runs up the valley of the 1 Drave W. to Klagenfurt in 5 hrs., [ and to Yillach in hr. moix*. / One train daily each way. See Etc. 253]. ‘ \ The rly. crosses the Drave oir a trellis-bridge, and over the % plain to / Kranichsfeld Stat. 7 m. ■ Pragerhof Stat. 4 f mr [A rly., opened in i86t, from | ; Pest (Ofen\ by Stuhlweissenburg 1 ^ and Kanisza, falls in here ; 209 m. in 10^- hrs.] ' 4V The line soon leaves the Pet- ’V tauer Feld, takes to hill country, and reaches PSltscbacb Stat, at the foot of 9 |^ n. rAU)K()^ OF THE STKlNt:U Ai.r l*^t o£* Sataitz PJat^au 'Ik-iihIo:*!' (ihnu’Jce ^ai‘2oi®ae] li trt*'' Wiphach S., about 15 m. : and from Wipbach down the Wipha'-h Thai, through agreeable scenery, and along the b ise of the Tarnovaner Wald Plateau, past H. Kreuz, to Gorz, about 22 m. (Ete. 254).] T 1 le rly. follows a S.E. course, through a hare country, to 7 m. Eakek Stat Mom than 4 m. S.E. is the Zirknitz See: but it is better visited from Planina. (See below.) The rly. turns S.W. at right angles to its former course, passing 1 . Selsach, and then St. Canzian fin each place a singular natural bridge, better visited from Pian- ina), and crossing the Trieste rd. twice, reaches Adelsberg Stat. (Inns, several : 9 j zur Goldenen Krone, Widow Duxat’s, best; Eisenbahn\ Slov. Postojna, lies in an irregiflar open basiii, tlic Nanos (4249 ft.), N. of W., being the most prominent object. Good lirad-qtiarters for exploring the wonders of the Karst; rendered fomons by tlie imme¬ diate neighb'mrhood of the great Grotto, tiic most magnificent and extensive in Europe, and visited from all parts. The Karst Ital. il Carso; Slov, Gabrek) is a table-land of bare limestone joek, coiTt spending in age with the chalk. In the wider sense it includes all Istiia and Dalmatia: but in the narrower, iis comprising only the Cavern- country, it extends from Laibach and Idria N., to Trieste and the Schneeberg S. I'he rock is so cleft and pierci d with holes that it is as porous as a sponge. The sur¬ face has the aspect of grey waves turned into stone; plants grow only in the chinks. No stream can exist on such a surface ; but m- some of the troughs or basins are locid beds of sandstone (Tasello), and it is only ichere these occur that streams exist. Sooner or later in. its course it meets with the lime¬ stone ami disappears in a cavern ; and again appears either in a se¬ cond trough or basin, or at the outer edge of the Karst, with an increased volume of water. Besides the innumerable clefts> largi* Hollows - of three kinds— Oi-cur here and there through the Karst. The first kind are Fun¬ nels (Slov. Dolina) small and large, some of which reach a 553 Me. 2^S.-GIIATZ to TRIESTE—ABELSBEBG. 554 depth of 500 and a width of from 800 to TOGO ft. Tiie second kind are perpeiidieiilar shafts callod Karst-holes ovDoce-holes —theslial- lower ones being often the resort of wild doves. Tlu^y are like the “ sw^allow-holes ” of some parts of England. In some there is water ; the deepest attains 800 ft. Tiie third kind are the Caverns. Of these again then; are two forms. Some are the channels of streams, which occasionally exteinl for miles, and contain no stalactites or stalagmites: others are dry, possessing onlij pools of stand¬ ing ivcder, with stalactites and stalagmites. The latter — the Grottos —are conjectured to have been originally the channels of .streams whieli have worked out a dei'per lied for tl'emselves, and left the old dry. The Grotto of Adelsherg is the finest example in the chstrict of this class. TJie Grotto is State property, placed lU'Kier the care of an officer in the vill., who appoints the guides and re; eives the fees. The entrance-fee for each civ ilian is ’]o kr. The guides receive 8 ■> kr. each, and one visitor must take at least 3. The candles, at 50 kr. per lb., are charged according as a small, a medium, or a great illumination is desired. It is ad¬ vantageous for visitors to enter in parties, as the expense of lighting and guides is divld- d amongst them. The lollowing is an example of the fees to be jiaid by 2 visitors according to the above rates:— Flors. Entrance-fees for 2 civilians (military men pay one-half less), at 70 kr. each . . . 1-40 3 guides and 2 lighters, at 80 kr. each.4-00 A great Illumination.—10 lbs. tallow candles for lighthig the Dom, Tanzsaal, and Calvarienberg . . , . 5 25 27 stearine candles (milli- kerzen) for lighting the candelabrum at the Eelvi- dere.0-52 II • 17 A small illumination requires 4 lbs. candles. The lowest scale of fee is 54 fl. Those who can afford it, however, will not regret a liberal expenditure on lights, much of the effect depending upon a good illumination. The ordinary tempe¬ rature of tiie Grotto is about 48° F;ftr. Ladies should protect themselves with cloaks and thick shoes from the chill and abundant moisture; if they desire it, a chaise a porteur (trag sessel) may be had for 6 fl. Only the flrst portion is wet; beyond tlie Folk it is dry. Time required liaan to 4 hrs. From the Calvarien¬ berg (furthest point) to Adelsherg it is I hr.’s quick walking. Visiloj s must not breaJc the statadites, or blacken them icith their lights. Tlie entrance is i m. from Adelsherg, on the rd. to Ottnk, through a natural cleft closed by a trellis-door leading into a low gallery. Sixty feet below, the Poili disappears in another ca¬ vern. The way leads over a natural hridge, under which the river, invisible, passes from 1, to rt. At 5jo ft. from the en¬ trance the visitor stands in a balcony in the Great Dom, which is 72 ft. high and 160 ft. broad; 50 ft. below, the Poik rushes across the Dom floor from rt. to 1., and disappears, to reappear 5 m. off as the river Unz near Planina. Steps descend to a causeway on the floor leading to a bridge over the P(.ik, and to steps on the other side, which are ascendud to the entrance to the Einp. Ferdinand's Grotto, dis¬ covered only in 1818. From this point the visitor pa.sses through a range of cham¬ bers interesting from the variety of forms the stalactitical matter assumes. It pervades almost every part; paves the floor, hangs in pendants, coats the wall, and forms screens, partitions, and pillars. The fantastic shapes of some masses have given rise to vai’ious names applied according 555 Me. 2iS.—GBATZ to TBIESTE—ADELSBEBG. 55G to the fancy of the guides. Some of the columns are more than 12 ft, in thickness. An idea of the time required for their formation is gained from the fact that in 13 years the usual deposit is no thicker than i^aper. One of the chambers, with an even floor, is converted on Whit ABynday each year into a ball-room (Tanz-saal). On that occasiou the peasants, and from 500 to 600 visitors, assemble from miles around, the whole place is lighted up as far as the Cal- varienberg, and the gloomy vaults re-echo with the sounds of mirth and music. Arrived at the Grab, the Franz-Josefs and Elisabeth's Grotto opens 1 ., traversed for the first time on their visit in jMarch, 1857. The visitor is usually taken this way to the Calvarienberg, and brought back by the old path which opens rt. The Calvarienberg is the fivrthest point, and is named from a crowd of Stalagmites which are clustered upon a heap of fallen rocks more than 260 ft, high. To the 1 . of the Belvidere, on the 557 nte. 2 AS.~GIIATZ to TRIESTE—ADELSBERG. 558 way to the Calvarienberg, and b(*youd tlio dropping well, is a l)ool fdling- a Dolina, and another line'Dolina called Tartarus. But this part is wet and dirty, and not nsually shown. To visit these in ((ddition reqnii-es hr. more. On the return from the Calva- rienbcrg- by the old path, the enti-ance to the Archduke Johns Grotto is passed 1., open only to extraordinary visitors. Entered in 1832; and containing amongst other stalactites a beautiful Cur¬ tain (Vorhang). Beyond, on the old path, is another 4 lines thick and 9 ft. long, dazzlingly white, with a brown striped border, one of the most charming of the stalactitic formations. A little further, the old path returns the visitor to the Grab. One hr. N.AV. of Adelsberg is the Black or Magdcdena Grotto Slov. Cerna Jama). It is the oldest knovm habited of the Proteus or 01 m {Proteus anejuinus), a curious animal between a fish and a lizard, and is entered through a Polina. It contains a Bom, and has stalactites, though broken and besmoked. Colder than the Adelsberg Grotto. Spe¬ cimens of the Proteus may be purchased at the Inn at Adels- lierg. It requii’es protection from the light, an equal temperature, and the water repeatedly changed. They inhabit a pool in the Grotto. Nearly i hr. N. of the Black C.b’otto lies the Poik Cavern (Slov. Piuka Jama), which is also entered tlirough a Dolina. Descent steej) and requires the use of a rope. In the Grotto the Poik is seen dashing past over rocks. At low water the rocks by the side of the stream can be descended 900 ft. to a point where the roof dips down to the stream, and ascended' 1500 ft. For those inclined to explore the streams in the caverns, Mikola, a joiner in Adelsberg, will let on hire a good canoe, with oar and pole, for from 15 to 20 fl. Excursions. a. To Ober Planina {Inn: Peren- nitsch’s, good, opposite the Post ; can supply guides and canoes), a small town about 5 m. on the post-rd. to Laibach N. of Adels¬ berg. From this place, as head¬ quarters, may bo seen,— I. The Planina or Klein- hdusler Cavern). Immediately beyond the Post a side-road leads from Ober Planina down to the Poik, overlooked by an old tower, the remains of the Schloss Kleinhciusl. At its foot are the mills of Herr Sigon. The en¬ trance is behind the mills, and leads to a Pom, through which the Poik flows. At high water a canoe enables the visitor to cross and ascend to the Chorinsky Pom, 124 ft. high and as broad. To this point ladies have gone. Pescent to the river again diffi¬ cult ; all fmdher course by canoe ; which it is better not to attempt when the water is high. At a lake beyond, 250 ft. long, in a Pom, the cave divides. By one of the branches the Poik enters. This lake, properly lighted, forms one of the finest spectacles in the Karst. In tlic Kaltenfelder branch, atits farthest point, I m. and 5 ftirlongs from 559 llte.^^^.-GBATZ to TMlESrE—ADELSBERG. 500 the daylight, is a small lake, and j in a side gi’otto some very fine stalactites. Abundance of Pro¬ teus occur in two pieces. The other or A0, though it sometimes exceeds ico ft. The magnificence of the s^'cne is be¬ yond description. The furthest point is nearly 2 m. from day¬ light. It is necessary to make the passage in 2 canoes in case of nccidcnt to one of them; as be¬ yond the 2nd bar there is not a single landing-]ilace. 2. The Mulilthal Springs, Toached in J hr. by a bridge over thePoik. In this has 11 is a series of mills driven Ijy 31 copious springs, which emerge within a distance of about 50 yds. They come from the Zirknitz See. 3. The Caverns of the Unz. The Poik ^ hr. after ils exit from the Planiua Cavern receives the Miihlthal Springs and then takes the name of Unz. It flows in serpentine windings along the jneadow-basin of Planina below the Scldoss Ilaasherg, and at the further end is gradually sucked up by a scries of swallow-holes. At flood-time 2 caverns in a rock- wall, near the vill. Jacobowitz, receive the surplus water, which only emerges agam at Ober Jjaibach, 6 m. distant, as the Laibach. 4. The Ravens Hole. The hills about Planina contain a great number of pits and Dolinas; many lie concealed in the woods unknown. At i hr. from Jacobo- icitz is one of the largest—the Raven’s Hole (Slov. Vranaja Jama), above 300 ft. deep. De¬ scent difficult over gercill to the bottom, where is a cavern through which the visitor may by stooping and crawling descend into the valley near Jacobowitz. The Devil's Hole (Teufelsloch), 240 ft. deep, is i hr. further up, the bottom of whicli can only be reached by a rope-ladder. And 5. The Natural Bridges of Maunitz and Selsach, and the Zirhnitz See. There is a good cross-rd. by the Schloss Ilaiisberg to iilaunitz in 2 hrs., and to Zirknitz in 2 more; car. 4 fl. In this way the Lake is visitedBut it is more interesting to take the 5 h^'s.’ walk from Maunitz to St. Canzian, and follow up the HaJcbach to Sehcu h, and thence to Zirknitz, sending the car on to Zirknitz (good Jnii) by tlie rd. The natural bridge of Maunitz is only 4 hr.’s walk from the rly. stat. Jiakek. The Rahbach is part of the outflow of the Zirknitz Sec. Disappearing first in the Gross or Veliha Karlouza Cavern, near Niederdorf, below Zirknitz ; re¬ appearing in a shaft, the so-called “ Eenster; ” ogaiit under the Selsach natural bridge ; further on by a Saw-mill hid in a cleft 62 ft. deep; then in the St. Canzianthal; and finally, for the 5th time, near the natural bridge of Maunitz—it is the same stream that brcalts out in the i^Iiihlthal, near Planina. The bridge of Maunitz, beyond St. Canzian s Ctipelle, and about I hr. S. of the vill., has an arch 561 ate. 248.—6'J?.4TZ to TRIESTE—ZIIiKNITZ. 5 G 2 150 ft. long and 62 ft. high; superior to its rivals the Rre- hischtlior in Bohemia, and the Veja Bridge, near Verona, f hr. beyond the bridge is a Cavern out of which the streams issues, and by means of a dam forms a pond. A little further is the Cleft with the Sawmill at the bottom; and further again (5 hr.) is the natural bridge of Selsach, one of the most remarkable phe¬ nomena in the Karst. It is 12 ft. wide, and spans a gulf with I)erpendicular sides 24B ft. long, 75 ft. broad, and 136 ft. deep. At the bottom is the Kakbach. The path continues through wood to Selsach, and thence to Zirlaiitz. The Zlrlcnitz See (Lacus Lu- gcus of Strabo), whose marvellous characteristics have been ex¬ aggerated, is about 5 m. long, and from i to 2 rn. broad, sur¬ rounded by numerous villages, chapels, castles, and witli 4 islands. At high water its size increases threefold. Its usual depth is but trihing—from 6 to 10 ft.—but 400 funnels exist in its bed, some of tl’.cm more than 50 ft. deep. The E. shore is flat, and the water shades off into marsh, and that again gra¬ dually into meadow and arable; but the W. shore is shut in by the steep slopes of the wooded JavorniJc (4154 ft.\ and Sta- novnit:. The principal marvel of the lake is that, though it is fed both by copious streams and underground channels, it has vnhj a subterranean oidfloio. Hence its sudden rise and the longer continuance of higli water. The rise and fall are not connected Avith any determinate periods: fiometunes the w’ater remains nearly the same for several years, but more usually it varies greatly during the same season. The entire bed is never laid dry, only the higher parts, upon which millet is then sown. Gregor Kebe of Untcr-Seedorf is the best guide to the lake and its caverns. To see the lake go from Zirknitz to Niederdorf to v’sit the Velilca Karlouza, the prin¬ cipal subterranean outlet; then to Unter-Seedorf, and in a boat to the island Ottok. Near the peninsula Ecrcoreh is the Sucha Dulza, and not far distant the Vrania Jama tEaven Cavern'';, two subterranean channels whicli supply a very important propor¬ tion of the water. The S. bay of the lake is very pleasing : from the vill. Laase here, tlie visitor may ascend a low ridge to Dane, and beyond hr.) to Alteimiarkt (good Inn), in a picturesque upland meadow basin. From this place is a decent car-rd. back to Zirknitz, about 10 m. I m. N. of Altenmarkt is the liltle town of Laas good Inn), in a romantic W(ioded basin, and i hr. N. of it on the rd. to Oblah is the 11 . Kreuzberg, and at its foot a Cavern from which many fossil bones have been taken. The Schneeberg Plateau lies im¬ mediately S. of tlie Alhmmaikt Thai. From Altsinnarlct to the summit of the Snemilc (5529 ft.), its solitary peak, about ro m., is an 8 hrs. exem’sion. Charcoal- burners’ huts the only shelter from bad weather. View, the whole of Carniola, part of Croatia, and the Adrialic. Returning to Adelsberg, another Excursion thence is to b. The Grottos and Schloss of Lucg, about 6 m. N.W. of Adels- 563 Bte. 2 ^S.— GRATZ to TRIESTE—BAIL. 564 berg. A pleasant footpath, more direct, leads by Ottok, Sagon, and Prestawa, to the hamlet Lneg. The car-rd. turns oft’ from the post-rd. at Hrasclie, and passes through Goritsclie, Landol, and Brine. A 4-seated car, 4 tlor. . The vill. ( Prejana) lies on the border of a hollow, closed at one end by a wall of limestone 390 ft. high. At its base the Lohva- hach disap 23 ears in a cavern, flows under the Nanosberg, and emerges at Wipbach to join the stream there. In this ivall are 5 Grottos, well worth seeing. The Schloss is built into the face of the overhanging rock, and its 3 stories mingling with the mouths of the grottos have a singular ajipcarance viewed from the op¬ posite side of the basin. Abund¬ ance of Saxifraga 'peirsea and Geranium nodosum near the rock- wall. Erasmus Lueger was in the 15th centy. the owner. Slaying llarshul Pappenheim in 1483, he tock refuge here, and was laid siege to by the Captain-General of Trieste, and at last slain through the treachery of a servant. The present Schloss was built 15 70 by Count Kobenzl; and since 1846 has belonged to Prince Windisch- griilz. c. Ascent of the Nanosberg (4249 ft.). Take car to Preivald (good Inn) about 9 m. on the post-rd. to Trieste. Much fre¬ quented as a place of summer- retreat from Trieste. A track (take gTiide) turns off rt. from the post-rd. beyond Prewald, and ascends the plateau past St. Jerome's chapel to the peak due N. of Prewald, 3 hrs. T 7 e«w, from its isolated position, very fine, including the Julian and Friulian Alp.s, fhe Adriatic, and Istria. Many rare plants grow on its slopes. Leaving Adelsberg, the rly. crosses the post-rd. to Fiume and then the Poik, and ascends thePoik Thai S. nearly to its head, past the stats. Rrestraneh and St. Peter (7 m.). Beyond, its course is a continual descent due W. across the Karst towards Trieste. W. of St. Peter it threads 6 short tunnels to the Sted. Oher- Lesece on the border of the Recca (or Ejeka) Thai. The next vill. is Divazza Stat., not far from the 23 great iJolina of St. Canzian, the finest in the Karst. Take a car, in i hr., to Kalde (good Inn), a small hamlet, and, 3311116 dinner is preparing, the Dolina can be seen. 'I'hen take the car on to Corgnale {Inn, Muko33’’s, moderate; better tlian that at JS'akle) to deep, and visit the Grotto there the follo3\'ing day. From Corgnale it is I hr. to Sessana Stat., and less to Divazza. [The Recca, rising at Podgraj at the foot of the Schneeberg Plateau, flows along its valley, in the sand¬ stone, a distance of about 25 m. N.AV., before arriving at St. Can¬ zian. Here it meets with a wall of limestone, and j^lunges into a Cavern at its foot. Nahle is above, on 1 . of this limestone wall, and the connected hamlets of Maitaun, St. Canzian, and Beitania stand on the top of it. From the ch.-yard of St. Canzian, at the edge of this cliff, is an interesting view of the valley, the Schneeberg peak in the dis¬ tance E. The Dolina is the property of tlie commune, and the key is kept by tho innkeeper of a small peasants’ inn in St. ate. 2i8.—GEATZ to TRIESTE—RAIL. 5 iSo 5 GG- Canzian. Fee, 15 kr. each person. The Visitor's Book is in the care of Herr Mahoruc, of Mattaun, who will give any desired information. Take an over-coat tiown into the Dolina. The Eecca emerges from its first cavern to enter a dolina 300 ft. deep, and sepamted by a tliin reef of rock fixnn the great Dolina, the AV. side of ^Yhicll is formed by a perpendicular wall 516 ft. deep. At its base is a large Cavern (Recca Hdlile), with an arch 60 ft. in height. Into this the stream rushes with great force, and only emerges into day¬ light again at Duino, on the coast N. of Trieste, as the Timao, or Timavus of Virgil. (SeeRte. 254,) Steps of rough-hewn blocks— without balustrade — lead down into the Dolina halfway. In rain or in a high w ind the descent re¬ quires care. Here is a door which the key opens, and the further descent is protected by a balus¬ trade. At the bottom the stream emerges from the reef with a fall of 30 ft. into a basin of deep green w'ater, 230 ft. long and 91 ft. broad. F/ei/; from the side of the pool exceedingly interest¬ ing. In the AV. wall, about 12 ft. above the ground, is a small Grotto, from which the Dolina is usually sketched. Useful as a 'place of refuge in had iveather. Near the entrance of the Recca Hohle is a heap of debris, whicli leads up to the Lager Grotto, with a fine arch 75 ft. high, and as broad. Beyond, a bed of dried sand, deposited by the stream when in flood, slopes down at an angle of 30°, ending with a drop of 12 ft. to tlie side of the stream —a fine point of view. A rope necessary to rcacii this point. By a canoe, kept in hand by a rope, the stream may bo de¬ scended as far as the*3rd Fall.. A clamber along the rocks thence leads to the 4th, 20 ft. high, wdiich is 1360 ft. from the entrance. In the N. wall of the great Dolina is another Grotto, with a Dorn 60 ft high. It narrow's,, and ends at SOU ft. from the en- ti ance; contains a few stalactites,, pools, deposits of mud, and many clefts wdiich communicate up- w’ards with the surface of the Karst. These Grottos and Caverns are the resort of ivild doves, and these bring in their train liawJcs and eagles, frequently seen. Take the car on to sec The Grotto at Corgnale. The innkeeper Mukow has the key* and the Grotto Book. Fee, 15 kr. each person, i hr. sufficient to see it. 10 miles' from Trieste by the post-rd. Entered at the base of a small Dolina. It is rather the union o f several Clefts than a single Grotto, and has some similarity to the Magdalena Grotto near Adels- berg. Constant ascent and de¬ scent of steps. Owing to this, strildng effects of light are pro¬ duced when I guide goes on in advance wdth a torch, and the 2nd guide follows the visitor wdth another. There are 3 Dorns, the most distant the finest, into wdiich is a descent by 154 steps. The Emp. Francis L, in 1816, penetrated to the In 1830 a rock was cut through, and the finest portion of the Grotto laid open. The furthest Dom has iirany fine brow'n stalagmites of large size.] 4 Sessana Stat. Itte, 2 \^.—GRATZ to TRIESTE—RAIL 5G8 mi [The nearest point to visit tlie lAndner or Treb/tscli Cavern, tlic deepest in the Karst. It is i lir. of bad rd. from Sossana to the vill. (/liik; thence to the Cave, be¬ tween Orlik and Trebitsch, i hr. Also •I hr. K. of Opschina. From Trieste, therefore, the hamlet of Fernetitsch is the best point from Inch to turn off the post-vd. remission from the engineer of the Trieste AVaterworks is requisite, usually addressed to some one in Trebitsch who has already niade the descent. For this reason, unless the permission has been already obtained by written application, it will be more convenient to \isit it from Trieste. Inquire if the ladders are HI good condition, f hr. to descend, and I.} hr. to ascend. In the course of Herr Lindner s endeavours to procure a supply of water for Trieste, he came, in 1840, upon tiiis Carern at the hottoin of a S a-allow hole 885 ft. deep, the entrance to which is in a small Dolma, 1120 ft. above the .sea. Along this Cavern lies the underground course of the Recca — last visible in the Dolina of St. Canzian. The mouth of the shaft is kept elosed; the descent is by 66 lad¬ ders—mostly wet and muddy — generally 12 ft. long, separated from each other by stages. The pa.ssage laborious, but not dan¬ gerous. The last ladder lands die visitor upon a sand and mud- hill, down which is a descent of 170 ft. to the Recca. Its surface is thus not more than 63 ft. above the sea. Tlie Cavern is 1182 ft. long; nbout the middle it is separated into 2 basins by masses of fallen rock. At each end the rock dips deep below the water. Its dark colour requires good lighting. In liood-time the water has risen 256 ft. up the shaft.] From Sessana the rly. descends in a long sweep to Prosecco Stat. Beyond, any m. enchanting View of the Adriatic, and of Giado and Aquileia, W., with the Friulian Alps in the ho¬ rizon, while S. are the headlands of Istria and its mtns. Trieste and its shipjting are below. Ve¬ getation changes its character; vineyards, figs, chestnuts, and olives, gradually make their ap¬ pearance. Nabresina. Junct. Stat. Herein m the line from Venice and Udine falls in. Good refreshment-room, but dear. From a series of em¬ bankments and viaducts the tra¬ veller looks down into the sea, 400 ft. below. The rly. makes a wide retnrn sweep to reach Grignano Stat., not more than If m ij m. in a straight line below Prosecco. Upon the Punta Grignana stands the Archduke Ferdinand Max.’s (Emp. Mexico') fine Villa Miramar. Threading a tunnel 870 ft. long, the rly. reaches Trieste (Terminus) {Inns, 1 } m mostly dear, some extortionate; make a bargain: Hotel de la Ville, on the Quay, good situation; Vic¬ toria, fair, not dear; Locanda Grande; Hotel de France; Al- bergo Daniele, fair bachelors’ quarters), the Tergesie of the Homans, and the cliief town of the Austrian Littorale, or coast- land of Illyria, and the most im¬ portant port of Austria, is situated at the N.E. extremity of the Adriatic, at tlie bottom of a gulf named after the town. It lias 65^000 Inhab., and is for S. Ger- 569 Bte. 2 m.—VIENNA to VENICE, by KLAGENFUBT. 570 many what Hamburg is for the North. Objects of interest. —Tlie Duomo, in which are buiied Don Carlos of Spain and his son ; Greek Ch., fine; Jesuits' Chur'h; so called Arco di Bicardo, a Roman mont.'; Tergesteum and Museum of An¬ tiquities. The Italian is the prevailing langunge ; German is used in the public I'fifices ; and the peasantry speak Slovenic. Library, Beading - room. — Guide-books, &c., at Colombo Coeri’s, 608 , Corso. Climate, subject to the most abrupt alternations—either from the hot and oppressive Sirocco S.K , or the cold and cutting Bora N.E., which blows across the Karst—often in such strength as to overturn laden waggons. The streets in Trieste are studded witli p )sts, at which people may take refuge against the Bora. Steamers to Venice and Ra¬ venna; and to Pula, Zara, Spa- latro, and Cattaro. For farther particulars see the Handbook of 8 . Germany. For Bte. 249 {Trieste to Pola) see S. Germ. Ilandbk. Rte. 250. — VIENNA to VENICE, by JUDENBUEG, KLAGENFURT, PONTEBBA, UDINE, and TREVISO. V’’IEN'NA (by quick train in 4 hrs. 20 min.) to EXG. M. Bruck on the Mur . . 109 Li'oben . . II Judenburg • 33 Uuzmarkt . 12 Noumarkt . 10 Friesach . 9 St. Veit . . 16 ENG. M, Klagenfurt (by riy.) . 14 Villach (by rd.) 24 Tarvis . . i8 Pontebba. . 15 Be^iutta . . 16 Udine (by rly.) J2f Codroipo . . 14 Venice . . 71 4^-4 i I'ahvagen daily from Bruck to Kb)gou- furt in 21 hrs.; from Klsgenfurt ti> Udino 5 times a ^Yeek, in 185 hrs. Bly. thence to Venice, in 4.1- hrs. The earlier portion of this route is attractive rather from a historical than from a scenic point of view; but it improves N. of St. Veit as the Karawankas, and behind them the Julian Alps, rise above the horizon. The scenery culminates in interest at Tarvis in the immediate neighbourhood of the Julian Alps. From Vienna by railroad (Etc. 247) to Bruck on the Mur {Inns: ZumlOO in. Eisenbahn, close to station, good; Adler; Mitterbrau), a station (Rte. 247). The route ascends the Mur Thai S.W. to Leoben {Inns: Goldener Ad- 11 m. ler ; Kaiser von Oesterreich in the great square; Mohr). See Rte. 240. [Here, a little beyond St. 5 m. Michael, the rd. over the Rotten- 571 Bte. 2 ^ 0 .—VIENNA to VENICE, hy KLAGENFUBT. 6T2 manner Taiiern, to Anssee, Isclil, and Salzburg (Ete. 240), turns offl.] *6 m. Kraubath {Inn: Post). 5 m. [Before the main-rd. crosses the Mur a rd. diverges rt. ■which continuing in the valley as hrr as Kohenz, ascends the hills N. W. 5 m. to Sthlmu, the seat and title of the bishops of Gratz. In the ch. are the tombs of many abbots of Sekkau, and of Charles, second Duke of Styria. From Sekkau the Zinlcen (7794ft.) may be ascended for its tine Vtew. Gentiana frigida found upon it.J Moser’s, good; Kaiser Krone, indifferent; Post, not good; Sonne; Hirscli). See Ete. 243. Rte. 254.—TRIESTE to VIL- LACH, hy GORZ, ISONZO- THAL, and PREDIL PASS. TRIESTE (l 5 y rly. in about 3 hrs.) to ENG. JI. Gorz . . -35^ Tolmein . 25 Karfreid . 10 Flitsch . .12 ENG. 51. Eaibl... 12 Tarvis . . 5 Villach . . 18 1174 Rd. good, but no post-bouses. Dil. from Gorz to Flitsch 4 times a week, in 12 hrs. Gorz is a pleasantly situated town and worth seeing. The lower Isonzo is a close barren valley; but the scenery improves about Tolmein and culminates at the Predil Pass. From Trieste by rly., which coasts along the cliffs overlook¬ ing the sea until it reaches 12 m. Nabresina, a Junction Stat. with refreshment-room,, dear. Here the trains for Vienna turn off rt. The rly. continues N.W., passing Duino, where is a modern chateau of Prince Hohenlohe, and an old ruin on a detached rock. Here Dante was the guest of Pagano delle Torre, patriarch of Aquileia, and composed part of the ‘ Divina Commedia.’ San Giovanni. No stat., but6| m. the rly. leaves the sea at this point. Near, the sources of the Timao (the classic Timavus) burst out in volume from the foot of a rock, and form a river which after a course of a mile enters the Adriatic. Sec ‘ JEneid,’ book i., 244-246. This stream is con¬ jectured to be the outlet of the Recca, which disappears in a cavern at St. Canzian in the Karst, 25 m. S.E. of this point. Monfalcone Stat. {Inn: Leone 3 m. d’Oro), on a hill overlooking the Adriatic, with a remarkable old mil-Fort. [10 m. W. of this \iea Aquileia, reached by crossing the Isonzo by a ferry {Inn: Leone d’Oro); in the days of the Komans one of the most important provincial cities, and the bulwark of Italy on its N.W. frontier. It was also the seat of the commerce between Italy and the N. and E. of Europe. Illyria and Pannonia were supplied with corn, wdne, and oil, in exchange for slaves and cattle. Sacked and burnt by Attila, a.d. 45 2. In the time of Augustus it had a Pop. of 100,000 souls; now only 1450. Climate pestilential, from the neighbouring marshes. The only remains of its old glory are the Duomo, the metro¬ politan ch. of the Patriarch of Aquileia, founded 1019-42, re¬ stored 1245, an'octagon Battisterio, Si fragment of an older basilica, with a font in the floor 605 Bte. 254 c.—TEIESTE to VILLAGE. The ISONZO. 606 for immersion. The Patriarch’s stone throne preserved beliind the high altar. Eoman remains are abundant; a local museum is full of them, and the Apothecaiy of the place has a large collection.J The rly. skirts the N.W. out¬ liers of the Karst, and passing Sagrado, and turning at right angles to its former course, and leaving Gradisca 1 ., reaches 14 m. Gorz (Inns: Tre Corone, good; Stadt Triest), Ital. Gorizia, on tlie Isonzo, in a charming position between mountain and plain, with 10,000 Inhab., and the seat of a Bishop. In the upper or old town is the Schloss of the old counts of Gdrz; partly in ruin, partly used as a prison. Famous for its 2')reserved fruits, the best at Eadaelli’s. Charles X., the ex-King of France, with 2 members of his family, lie buried here in the chapel of the convent of Castagnovizza, on a height above the town. [5 m. above Gorz, overlooking the narrow entrance into the Isonzo Thai, is Monte Santo, crowned by a celebrated pil¬ grimage ch. erected 1544, to commemorate the apjDearance of the Virgin 5 years earlier to a peasant of Salcano. Interior of ch. worth seeing. View over the plain S. with the milky Isonzo stretching away to the sea, and over the plain W. with the Cadore mountains beyond, well worth the climb. Many interest¬ ing ‘plants on the way. At Salcano, the first village beyond Gorz, the rd. makes a rt. angle to enter the Isonzo Thai at the foot of Monte Santo.] 17 m. Canale, a vilL, where the rd. crosses to rt. or W. bank of Isonzo. About 5 m. further the' rd. abandons the valley to take a N. and more direct course. Beyond, the Idria, an important stream, joins the Isonzo on rt. After passing Volzano or Wolt- schach, lying on a cross-ridge, Tolmein (Ital, Tolmino) is 8 m. seen on a slope on the oj^posite bank of the river. There is a Schloss close by, where Dante, while guest of Pagano delle Torre, wrote some of his poems— a crag overhanging the river is still called Dante’s Seat. The higher mountains of the W. border of the Wocliein plateau become visible ; Mte. Vochu, Mte. KucJc, and portions of the Krn Plateau. The rd. now pursues a N.W. course to Karfreit (Ital. Cap>oretto), 10 m opposite the W. face of the Krn i^erg (7357 ft.) [A rd. here diverges W., and coming to the Natisone in 4 m., turns S. to accompany it to Civi- dale, about 15 m. further. See Ete. 250.] The rd. continues its N.W. course, and passes Ternova and Serpenizza. At Saaga both rd. and stream make another bend at rt. angles, and enter the basin or plain of Flitsch, shut in on N.W. by the huge Flitsch Plateau. Note.—The whole course of the Isonzo is a series of long lines at right angles to each other. Flitsch {Inn : Loschnigg’s, 12 m. tolerable) (Slovenic, Pless) ; a small market town picturesquely situated amid the mountains. The 607 Bte. TRIESTE to VILLACU, RREDIL TASS. 608 Isonzo issues out of the valley openiii" E., but is invisible from Flitscli, its channel being cut deep in the diluvium. It is a desolate waterless region, the sides of the valleys re¬ sembling the openings of a stone- quarry. The surrounding district is so barren that the inhabitants are freed from taxes. Houses are scattered on the margin of the small plain, and especially where, as at the foot of the Plateau, large streams of water emerge to join the Isonzo. Ascent of Mte. Prestelenih (about 8-jooft.). This is a peak on the W. edge of the plateau, overlooking the Kaccolana Thai. The ascent is well worth making. The plateau is approached by means of a long narrow gully, which in 2 hrs. leads to a goatherd’s hut, and a very scanty spring of water at the foot of the Vratni Vrh. The gully opens out into a long stony valley 1., which ascends steeply across the plateau to its W. edge : the peak then lies to 1 . Time from hut to summit 3 hrs. De¬ scent to Flitsch 3 hrs. * View of the entire Julian Alps from Mte. Cimone to the Terglou, and of the peaks which stand on the run of the Woehein plateau, magnificent. Interesting near vieAv of the Flitsch Plateau itself. Guide necessary, and water or loine. [The Save Thai may be reached from Flitsch by ascend¬ ing the Isonzo Thai to Trenta, and crossing by the Prisinig to Kronau. SeeRte. 251.] The rd. on leaving Flitsch ps-occeds N.E., with the Saulwpf, a copy of the Pam de Sucre at Courmayeur, on rt., and soon enters the valley of the Cori- tenza, a stream that rises in the Mangert. Fm-ther on, it makes a cheuit to pass round the re¬ mains of an old fort protected by a very deep chasm cut by the river, and enters the Flitscher Klause, a narrow 3 m. defile between bare precqnces. Passing 1 . the opening into the Mogenza Thcd, overlooked by the fine peak of Monte Cernjala (Confin Sp), at its head Enter and Mitter Preth, the lower vills. of the 4 m. Predil Pass, are entered (small Inn). The massive boss of the Mangert overlooks the scene : E. is the SehniJe; and the long line of precqDices of the Priezel runs from the Sebnik to the Klause. The rd. makes a great cheuit with a steej) ascent to Ober Preth. Beyond on rt. a stream descends from the Mangert and passes under the rd. Here the route for the ascent of the Mangert turns off. See Rte. 250. A little further the rd. passes between the works of the Predil Fort, first erected in 2 m. 1808. Defended bravely in May, 1809, against an overwhelming French force of 6000 men. A monument erected to the memory of the fallen, similar in character to that at Malborghet (Rte. 250), is by the roadside. Finest view of the Priezel preci^Dices from about this point (3885 ft). After a turn or two another fine view W. is displayed of the Raibl Thai, deep green Raibl See, and the peaks of the Wischberg opposite. 609 TRIESTE to VILLA CH. PREDIL PASS. 610 The rd, now makes a gradual descent N. into 3 m. Raibl {Inns: Scheidenberger’s, first house on rt. descending from the pass, decent and civil; another in the village, dirty and dear). ^ There is a lower rd. into Eaibl just above the lake, pro¬ tected by galleries—the winter rd. Eaibl is a mining village ; the mines (lead and zinc) are worked in the dolomite of the lower Trias of the Konigsberg. Many interesting plants may be found here, such as Thlaspi cepxmfolium, Homogyne sylvestris, Asiranha carniolica. Campanula Zoysii, Genista radiata, Cytisus purpureus, and Woodsia glabella. [The Eaibl Thai is prolonged S.W. and W. over a low water¬ shed into the Eaccolana Thai. See Ete. 250. The Raibl Thai and Raccolana Thai form a com¬ plete breali across the line of ridge of the Julian Alps.'\ The rd. continues N., following the course of the Schlitza, the Konigsberg being on 1.; passing the hamlet of Kaltwasser, cross¬ ing the stream, and then going through Flitschl, it reaches Ober Tarvis {Inn: Gelbfuss’, 5 m. very good). On the high road from Vienna to Venice (Ete. 250). Villach {Inns: Post, pretty 18 m. good; Goldenes Lamm; Stein- hauer). See Ete. 243. I i I Kp. Tyr. d: Alps. X INDEX ABER, A. Abek, lake of, 430 Abtei, 348 Abtenau, 74, 108 Ache torrent, 16, 64, 81; falls, 340 Achen river, 37 Achenthal and See, 33, 34, 145, 473 Acquabona, 364 Adamello, 124, 265, 271 Adda, vale of the, 166, 168 Adelsberg, cave of, 552 Adige, source of, 154; Valley of, 156, 208 Admont monastery, 438 Afing, 223 Aflenz, 499 Agger river, 53 Agnaro, Monte, 303 Agnola, val di, 272 Agordo, 302, 306, 350, 422 Ahorn Spitze, 385 Ahrn, 336 Ahrnthal, 335, 338 Aibling, 19 Aigen, 51 Aineth, 343 Aitrang, 7 Ala, 246 Alberschwende, 144 Alfenz valley, 133 Algau Alps, 7 Alleghe, lake, 291, 309 ' Aim, xxxvii,i 71, 72 Alp, meaning of the word, xxxviii Alpine Vocabulary, xxxviii Alps, Eastern, sketch of the, xvii Alpsee, 8, 15 Alpspitze, 26 Alland, 509 Alt-Aussee, 433 I ATTNANG. I Altenmarkt, 443, 512, 562 I Altenstadt, 131 I Althofen, 574 I Altmiinster, 95 i Amblar, 267 j Ambras castle in Tyrol, 42 Am Lech, 148 Ammer, 25 Ammergau, 25 Ammersee, 25 Ampezzo, pass of, 360; town, 372,586 Ampola, fort, 407 Am Sand, 219 Amstettin, 57 Am Trog, 480 Andrii, St., 600 Andraz, 35c Anfang, 62 Anfo, 406 Anpraz, Valle d’, 308 Anif, 72 Ankogel, ascent of, 87 Antelao, Monte, ascent of, 365. Antholz vale, 313, Village and baths, 325 Anton, St., 134 Antonio, St., 269 Aprica, 171, 400 Aquileia, 604 Anlaufthal, 85 Arco, 255 Arlberg pass, 130, 133 Arnoldstein, 324, 579 Arten, 302 Arzl, 199 Arztberg, 442 Aschbach, 57 Aschau, 75 Asiago, 296, 299,'4I3 Asolo, 300, 419 Assa river, 413 Assling, 595 Asten, 56 ' Asti CO river, 410 Attersee, 53 j Attnang, 53 . BAVARI.4. Atzwang, 235, 357 Au, 146 Auer, 241 Auf der Au, 385 Auf-den-Fern, 17 Auf der Plecken, 322 Auf der Stanz, 487 Augsburg to Lindau, 5 -to Innsbruck, 13 Aurach, 36 Auronzo, 364, 372 Aussee, 432; salt-mines, 433; lakes near, 433 Avio, 246; val, 264 Avisio, torrent, 242, 281; valley of the, 281 Axams, 214 , B. Baden in Austria, 510 Bad-Gastein, 8r; baths, 81; gold-mines, 82 - * to Salzbui’g, 71, 88 -to Ober-Vellach, by the Malnitz, 84 -to Zell-am-See and Salz¬ burg, 88 Bad-Vellach, 470 Badia, 348 Bagalino, 279, 402 Baierisch Zell, 36 Baldo, Monte, 249 Ballabio, 166 Balzers, 127 Bardolino, 251 Barghe, 405 Bartholoma-See, 64, 69 Barwies, 17 Bassano, 299 ; castle, 299 Bauern Comodien in Tyrol, 114, 143, 159 Baura, church of the Trinity, Bavaria, sketch of; beer, pass¬ ports, money, railways; posting, roads, maps, 1-6 BAYERBACfT. Bayerbach, 515, 523 Belfort, 258 Bellagio, 107 Bellano, 168 Bellasio, 258 Belluno, 350, 420 Benedictbeuern, 29 Berchtesgaden, salt-mine, 63 -* to Salzburg, 61 -to Bad-Gastein, 69 Berg Isel, 142, 226 Bergen, 20 Bernardo, 261 Bernau, 20 Bemitz, 512, 513 Berusdorf, 512 Beseca, 407 Betbvnia, 564 Bezau, 145 Bezigau, 7 Bichlfall, 108 Bieno, 297 Biessenhofen, 6 ,14 Billichgratz, 547 Biscbofsliofen, 7J Bleiberg lead-mines, 455 Bleiburg, 602 Blindenmarkt, 58 Bludenz, i^2 Bluhnbachtbal, 75 Blumau, 23S Bobingen, 5 Bocca di Brenta, 269, 272 Bockstein, 82 Bodelwand viaduct, 5ji Boden, 150, 321 Bogliaco, 251 Bobeimkirchen, 59 Bolladore, 173 Bondo, 278 Bondone, 406 Borca, 293, 365 Borghetto, 246 Borgo di Val Sugana, 296 Bormina, val, 188 Bormio, 173; baths, 174 -to Male, 183 Boso, 413 Botzeu, 236 -to Brescia, 265 -*to Merau, 163 -to Sterzing, 222 -to Trent and Verona 240 -* to Innsbruck, 22 5 Bovo, Canale di St., 297 Brandberg, 384 Brandeis, 162 Brandeuberg, 38 ■ Brandhof, 498 Brannenburg, 39 Branzoll, 241 CAMPEDELLO. Braulis, val di, 175 Bregenz, 130 -to Innsbruck, 129 -to Reutte, 144 Bregenzerwald, 132, 14; Breitenschiltziug, 53 Breitenstein, 528 Breitlahner, 386 Brenner, pass of, 225, 228 Breno, 402 Brenta, 297, 418 -Alta, 124, 268, 275 Brentino, 247 Brescia, 404 -to Riva, 404 - * to Sondrio, 400 Bribano, 420 Brixen, 232, 380 — to Villach, by the Pus- terthal, 310 Brixlegg, 38, 40 Brack in the Pinzgau, 395 on the Mur, 437, 446, 500, 529, 570 Bruckmuhle, 19 Briihl, 509 ; valley,[509 Brunau, 191 Brunecken, 313, 358 — to Heiligenblut, 324 — to the Krimler Tauern and Zillerthal, 335 — to Botzen, by the Grii- denthal, 346 — to Venice, by the pass of Ampezzo, 357 Brunn,508 Bschlaps, 150 Buchau, 34 Biichberg, 519 Bucheben, 399,487 Buchelbach, 16 Buchenstein, 350 Buchloe, 6 Burgeis, 155 Burgstall, 163, 266 Bilrsthof, 520 c. Cadenabbia, 167 ; Villa Car- lotta, 167; Thorwaldsen’s sculpture, 167 Cadore, 366; valley, 372 Calceranica, 244, 295 Caldonazzo, lake of, 243, 295 Caldron of Steiner Alp, 54 ^ Calfaro, 279, 406 Galliano, 244 Camonica, Val, 263, 402 Campedello, 286, 35 ° CODROIPO. Cainpione, 251 Campo, 277 -Formio, 588 -Silvano, 409 Canale, 605 -St, Bovo, 303 Canary birds, trade in, 135 Canazei, 287 Canova’s birthplace, 300,419 ; picture by him, 419; his tomb, 419; his house, 300, 419 Canzian, St, 551; cave, 564 Capo di Ponte, 368, 402, 422 Capriana, 282 Caprile, 291, 302, 310, 35 ° Caresolo, 269 Carinthia, 426 -, dukes of, chair of in¬ vestment, 577; singular ceremony connected rvith, 577 Caruiola, 428 Carsaniga, 166 Cassian, S., 349 . ^64 Castelbarco, 245 Castelfranco, 3C0 Gastello, 350 Castelruth, 287, 355 Castelthun, 259 Caterina, Sta., 159, I 74 > 263 Cavalese, 241, 281 Caves in the Julian Alps, 428; of Adelsberg, 552 ; of St. Magdalene, 557 ; rivers and lakes, subterraneous, 563 Cavidago, 259 Cedegolo, 401 Cemb^ra, 257, 281 Cencenigbe, 284, 3^9 Ceneda, 368 Ceppina, 173 Ceraino, 247 Charles V., Emperor, 141 Chiemsee, 20 Chiesa, 171, 409 Chiese valley, 405 Chiusa, la, 247, 584 Chorinsky Klause, 99 Christina, St., 354 Cilly, 541 Cima, 371, 585 -d’Asta, 297 -Cimedo, 306 -di Pape, ascent, 309 Cismone, 122, 298, 302 Cividale, 488 Civita, Monte, 292 Cividate, 402 Cles, 240, 259, 267 Coclroipo, 588 V 9 615 INDEX. 616 COGOLO. Cogolo, i88 Coire, 129 -* to Feldkirch, 127 Colfosco, 352 Colico, 168 Colin of Mechlin’s sculpture, 1^8 Collalto, 586 Comano, 255, 277 Comeglians, 585 Comelico, 371 Como Lake, excavated road on its eastern shore, 165 Condino, 279 Conegliano, 369, 589 Confinale, Monte, ascent of, 184 Copper-mines, 339 Cordevole, 420 Corfara, 287, 350, 352, 364 Corgnale, 564; grotto, 566 Comedo, 415 Cortina d'Ampezzo, 361; neighbourhood of, 361-363 Coevlo, pass and fort, 297 Crespano, 418 Croce, St., 368 Curano, 282 Custoza, 247 D. Dachstein Mountain, 103 Dalaas, 13 3 Dalcon, val, 275 Damils, 146 Dances, Tyrolese, 114 Daniele, St., 586, 588 Dante, 246; at Tolmino, 606 Daone, 278 Darching, 35 Darfo, 403 Dead Mountains, 433 Deiblhof, 514 Denno, 259 Dentro, val, 174 Dervio, 168 Desenzano, 253 ^ Deutschen, 235 Deutscher Peter, 463 Deutschmetz, 258 Dienten, 71 Diententhal, 71 Diesenhofen, 19 Dimaro, 262, 268 Divazza, 564 Dohlino, lake, 254 Dobratsch, 323, 455 Dobrava, 547 Dogna, 584 Ddllach, 318, 476 ENNS. Dolomite mountains of Tyrol, 119-121, 163, 286,321,347. 358 Domegge, 367, 37J Domegliara, 247 Donat, St., 576 Dorf-Gastein, 79 Dornbirn, 130 Drachenhdhle cavern, 531 Drauburg, 600 Drave, source of the, 315. Valley of the, 454 Drei-Herrn-Spitze, 118, 334 Dreistetten, 517, Duino, 603 Dumpen, 192 Diirnbach, 441 Diirnberg, 72 Diirnfeld, 574 Diirenstein, near Friesach, 573 Dux in Tyrol, 227, 388 Duxerthal, 227, 388 E. Ebelsberg, 56 Ebensee, 96 Eberndorf, 602 Edolo, 171, 264, 401 Kgg. 145 Eggenberg castle, 536 Egyden, St., 518 Ehrenberg, 13, 16 Ehrenburger Klause, 16 Ehrenhausen, 539 Eibsee, 17, 26 Eichberg, 528 Einspann, xxxi Eisack river, 224, 228, 235 . 311 Eisenerz, 443; Iron moun¬ tain, 444 -*to Mariazell, 500 Eisenstrasse, 440 Eissee, 387 Elbigenalp, 149 Ellbogen, 148 Ellmau, 379 Embach, 399 Emersdorf, 323 Eridorf, 20 Enego, 298 Enneberg, 348 Enns, 57, 282, 440 —— to Steyer and Eisenerz, 440 -river, 57 -, vale of the, 438 ; Pass Gesiiuse, 439 FRANZDORF. Ennsthal, 435 Erlafsee, 496 Erlsbach, 325 Erpfendorf, 378 Ettall, convent, 25 Eyers, 156 F. Fahrkleis, 220 Falbeson, 214 Falcade, 284, 309 Falserthal, 227 Fassa valley, 122, 283 Fedaja pass, 287 Federaun,579 Feistritz, 531, 580 -on the Save, 596 Feldkirch, 131 -to Coire, 127 Felixdorf, 512 Feltre, 302, 420 Fend,197 Fenderthal, 197 Ferdinandshdhe, 177 Ferlach, 463 Ferleiten, 485 Fernetitsch, 567 Feuchten, 200 Fieberbrunn, 378 Finkenberg, 388 Finstermiinz, pass of, 15% Fischbach, 39 Fischbachthal, 22 Fischau, 517 Fischhausen, 36 Flavon, 259 Fleimserthal, 257 Flirsch, 134 Flitsch, 606 Florian, St., monastery of, 56 Fondo, 240, 259 Fontanella, 267 ; baths, 132 Fonzaso, 302 Forni Avoltri, 371, 585 Forno, vill., 283 ; val, i8> -di Canale, 308 -di Sopra, 586 -di Sotto, 586 Forst, 160 Forsthaus Biirenthal, 536 Fortresses on a new system at Linz, 55 Fraele, val, 174 Fragant,475 Fragenstein, 27 Fragsburg castle, 162 Frankeumarkt, 53 Franzdorf, 549 617 INDEX. 618 FRANZENSIIOHE. Franzensliohe, 179 Franzensveste, 231, 358 Frassene, 306 Frastens, 131 Freien, 492 Freilassing, 21 Freuudberg castle, 41 Friesach, 573 Fritzens, 41 Fritzthal, 77, 447 Frohn, 321 Frohnleiten, 531 Frohnwies, 91 Frohsdorf, 516 Fuentes, fort, 168 Fugazze pass, 410 Fugen, 383 Fulpmes, 210 Funtensee, 70 Furva, val, 174 Fusch, 396 Fuschl, lake and vill., 430 Fuschthal, 396, 484 Fuschtlior, 484 Fusine, 188, 262 Fiissen, 14 G. Gacht, 12,16, 151 Gaden, 509, 517 Gaderthal, 122, 312. 341 Gail valley, 317, 421, 580 Gals, 336 Gaisberg, 52 Gaisborn, 436 Gallen, St., 439 Gallenstein castle, 439 Gallic, 413 Gaming, 505 Gampen pass, 260, 267 Gampenhdfe, 181 Gams, 505 Gamskarkogl, 80 Garda lake, 250; vill., 252 Gares, 304, 308 Gargnano, 251 Gassen, 325 Gastein, 79 ; Bad, 8r Gebatschfemer, 201 Gemona, 586 Gennacb, stream, 6 Genova, val di, 270 Georg, St., 336 Georgen, St., 436, 541 Gerlos pass, 389; vill., 341, 390 Gerold, St., 132 Gertrud, St., 262 Gesiiuse pass, 439 GREVO. Gescbiitt pass, 107 Gilgen, St., 430 Ginzling, 230, 386 Giorgione’s birthplace, 300 Giovanni, San, 604 Giudicaria, 255, 277 Giuliano, S., lake of, 271 Gleichenberg, 539 G lemthal, 90 1 Glockner mountain, 479 Gloggnitz, 522 Glurns, 155 Gmiind, 452 Gmund, 31 Gmunden, 95 ; lake, 95 Gniggl, 429 Gobbera, 303 Godego, 300 Goggau, 580 Goisern, 100 Goldegg, 78 Gold-mines of Gastein, 82; of Rauris, 398; of the Zillerthal, 383 ; on the Kloben, 483 ! Gelling, 73; waterfall, 74 -*to Hallstadt, 105 I Gollrad, 498 j Gomagoi, 181 Gond, 159 Gdrtschach, 548 Gdrtschitzthal, 574 Gdrz, county of, 429 Gorz, or Gorizia, 603, 605 Gosaldo, 306 Gosau, 106; lakes, 107; saw- I mill, 100 ] Gossnitz waterfall, 480 Gossensass, 228 1 Gotzens, 214 ; Giitzis, 131 ! Grades, 574 Gradiska, town of, 605 Gradwein, 532 Gramais, 150 I Gratz, 532 ; Schlossberg, I 533; Emperor Ferdinand’s 1 tomb, 534; Johanneum, I 5J4 ; library, museum, i 5 J 4 - 1-to Laibach, 538 j- *to Salzburg, by Aussee, I 429 ;-to Vienna, 506 :-to Klagenfurt, 599 Grasnitz, 499 Graun, 155 Greifenberg, 318 Greifenstein castle, 163 Gressenberg, 536 Greuth, 501 : Grevo, 402 HEILIGENGEIST. Gries, 193, 213, 217 Griffen, 537 Grignano, 568 Grigno, 297 Griiitoux, 541 Grisons, frontier, 128 ; mas¬ sacre in the, 169 Grbbming, 448 Grddig, 62 Grodenthal, 122, 347, 353 ; carvers in wood, 353 Grosotto, 173 Grossaitigen, 6 Grossarl, 78 Grossdorf, 327 Gross-Glockner, 479; ascent of, 328, 479 Gross Venediger, 118, 393 Grosshesselohe, 19 Grub, 345 Griinbach, 517 Grundlsee, 434 Griinten, 8, 11 Griinsee, 70 Guides among the Alps xxxiii I Gumpoldskirchen, 510 I Gunskirchen, 54 Guntramsdorf, 510 GUnzach, 7 Gurglthal, 17, 135, 194 Gurk cathedral, 575 ; river, 574 Gurnitz, 460 Guttenstein, 513, 602 H. I I Haag, 57 I Htigerau, 149 j Hagerbauer, 496 Haimingen, 136 Hainzenberg gold-mines, 383; hamlet, 389 Haisling, 384 Haldensee, 12 Hall, salt-mines, 43 -(near Innsbruck, 35 Hallein, salt-mines, 52, 72 Hallstatt, village, loi, 449; lake, 100; mine, 102 -to Gelling, 105 Hallthurm, 23, 68 Hammersbach, 26 Harbatzhofen, 8 Heidenthurm, 9 Heiligenblut, 476 Heiligengeist, 339 - to Windisch Matrey, J41 INDEX. 620 619 IIEILiaENWASSER. Heiligenkreuz, 509 Heiligenwasser, 14J Helterwang, 16 Heiterwangsee, 16 Helenenthal, 509, 511 Hellbrumi, 52, 72 Henfeld, 19 Henry the Foundling, i ^4 Hergatz, 9 Herniagor (Gail Thai), J19, 323, 455 Herzogstuhl, the, 57O Hetzendorf, 508 Hieflau, 44J Hindelang, 12 Hinterdux, 227, J89 Hintereisferner, 204 Hinterkirch, 155 Hinterleiten, 527 Hintersee, 67, 107 Hirschau, 65 Hirschberg, 25 Hirschbiihel, 67, 91 Hirschtietzen, 536 Hirschwang, 525 Hoch-Eppan, i6j, 247 Hof, in Salzburg, 4J0 Hofer’s grave, 141; exploits, 116 ; relics, 141, 219, 498; his house in the Passeyr- thal, 162, 219 ; his cha¬ racter, 219 ; his capture and death, 219 Hof-Gastoin, 79 Hoflein, 471 Hohenembs, 131 Hohenschwangau, 14 Hohenwerfen castle, 76 Hohe Salve, 40, 379 Hohlenstein, 359 Hohlweg, the Pinzgauer, 91 Hollenburg, 464 Hbllenthal, 515 Hollersbach, 393 Hcillthal, 26 Holzaufzug, 495 Holzgau, 149 Holzkirchen, 19, 31, 35 Hopfereben, 147 Hopfgarten, 326, 380 Hdrsching, 54 Hrieb, 549 Huben, 193, 326 Hunsdorf, 89, 3 q 3 Husbandry in lyrol, 114 HUttau. 447 Hiitteldorf, 59 HUttenberg, 574 HUttschlag, 78 ISEO. I. Idria, quicksilver-mines, 549 Idro, lake of, 279, 405 ; vill., 406 III, river, 7,131 Iller river, 8, ii llsangmiihle, 66 Inter, 303 Im Gschoder, 103 Im Kolben, 83, 399 > 4S8 Ira Schrecken, 147 ' Iraraenstadt, 7, ii. I -to Innsbruck, ii ' Irast, 135 ; Canary-birds, 135 Incudine, 264 In der Oed, 513 Inn, river, 18, 27, i J5, 153 -, vale of the, 18, 379 Innichen, 315, 370 -to Pieve di Cadore, 369 Inningen, 5 Inns, xxxiii Innsbruck, 138; Maxi¬ milian’s tomb, 138; Philip- pina Welser’s tomb, 141; Hofer’s tomb, 141; palace, golden roof, 141; museum, 141; cemetery, 142; en¬ virons, Schbnberg, Schloss Ambras,Weiherberg castle, Patscherkofel, 142, 143 Innsbruck, *to Bregenz, 129 -*to Augsburg, 13 -- *to Munich, 28, 30, 38 -to Meran, 151, 189 -to Botzen, Trent, and Verona, by the Brenner Pass, 225 -to the Oetzthal, 208 -to Venice, by the pass of Ampezzo, 357 -*to Salzburg, 374 -to Gastein, by the Ziller- thal, 382 Introbbio, 166 Inzell, 22 Ips, 57 Iron crown, 165 l ron, mountain of, 444 Isar river, 27, 30 Ischgl, 133 Ischl baths, 97 ; excursions, 98 ; salt mine, 98 -*to Linz, 92 -to Hallstatt, 99 -to Aussee, 99 Iselberg, 226 Iselsberg, 317 Iselthal, 326, 343 l seo, 404 KASERN. Isola, 401 Isonzo, vale of, 593, 604 Issenanger, 210 J. Jacob, St.,230, 325. 333 , 33 ^ -to Heiligengeist, 33$ Jacobowitz, 559 Jaroslaw, 484 Jauerberg, 462 Jaufen pass, 162, 221 Jaufenbnrg castle. 221 Jenbach, 34, 41, 382 Johann, St., 77, 90, 358, 344, 378, 436, 519 Johanneum at Gratz, 534 Johannisberg, ascent of, 483 John, Archduke of Austria, his residence at Brandhof> 498 Johnsbach,439 Josephsthal, 37 Judenberg, 571' Jtidendorf, 532 Jufahl, 207 Julian Alps, 590, 428 Jungfernsprung, 532; water¬ fall, 476 K. Kahlwang, 436 Kainzenbad, 27 Kaiserbrunnen, 525, 526* Kaiserklaus, 33, 37 Kaiserswache, 3 3 Kalditsch, 282 Kals, 327 Kalschach, 229 Kaiser Tauern, 328 Kalserthal, 327 Kaltenbrunn, 31, 200- Kaltern, 239, 240 Kalternsee, 240 Kaltwasser, 5811, 610 Kammerling Horn, 67 Kammersee, 434, Kanizsa, 540 Kanker, 471 Kapfenberg, 500, 53a Kapellen, 491 Kappel, 468 Karawankas, 460 Karfreit, 606 Karlsdorf, 538 Karlstein, 23 Karst, 552, 605 Kaserboden, 159, Kasern* 335 , 339 - 621 INDEX. 022 KATZENSTEIN. Katzenstein, 162. Kaufbeuern, 6 KaufFiiiann. Angelica, birth place, 145 Kaumberg, 512 Kauns, 200 Kaunserthal, ijj Kaunsthal, 200 Kematen, 230, j88 Kemmelbach, 58 Kempten, 7 Kesselbacli fall, 65, 85 Kesselbevg, 29 Kiefersfelden, _J7, J9 Kiudberg, 5jo Kirchberg, j8i Kirchbiihl, 40 Kirchheim, 90 Kirchstetten, 59 Kirschentheuer, 461 Kitzbiihl, j8i Klagenfurt, 458, 478, 603 -to Laibach, 464 -to Kraiiiburg, 467 Klam Alp, 4^4 Klam, castle of, 18 Klamm, 528 Klamm pass, 7 2, 79 Klausen, 233 Kleinmiinchen, 56 Klein-Venediger, 54? Klein-Walserthal, ii, 147 Kloster Glaink, 440 Klosteiie, 133 Kniepass, 15, ^77 Knittelfeld, 571 Kobenz, 571 Kochel, 29 i Kochelsee, 29 1 Kbflach, 5 37 , 601 : Kolbnitz, 47 3 Kollman, 234, 355 Kollmer, 466 ■ Kdnigsbach fall, 65 ‘ Konigssee, 64 Konstanzertbal, 8 Kdtschach, 318, 321 Kotschachthal, 84 Kottingbrunn, 512 ! Krainburg, 466, 55r, 598 : Krampen, 491 I ' Kranichsfeld, 540 i Kraubeth, 571 Kremsmiinster, 54 | Kressnitz, 543 i Kreuth baths, 32; vilh, 455 ' Krieglach, 530 ' Kriml, 340, 391 j Kriraler Taiiern pass, 339 1 Kronau, 592, 593 | I Kronbei'g, castle, 135 | Kronmetz, 258 LAXENBUEa. Krumbach, 147 Krumnusbaiini, 58 I Kuchl, 73 ' Kufstein, 37, 39 Kiihnsdorf, 602 Kummernitz, St., and her beard, 356 Kundl, 40 ' Kuntersweg, 235 Kurtatsch, 241 Kurzras, 204 L, Laack, 548 Laas, 562 Laase, 543, 562 Lacedell, 294 I Lacise, 252 Ladis baths, 152 Ladritscher-Briicke, 358 Liigerthal, 244 Lago di Garda, 250 Lago d’ Iseo, borders of, 403 Lago Morto, 368 Laibach, 543, 598; Congress, 546 -* to Salzburg, by Villach, 446 I - * to Villach, by the | valley of the Save, 590 -river, 549 I Lainbach, 505 ■ Lakes, the Seven, 504 Lam bach, 53, 94 Lammer valley, 74, 107 * ' Landeck,135 -to Innsbruck, 135 - to Meran and Botzen, 151 Langbath, 96 Landl, 37 Landro, 359 Landsberg, 536 Langbath, 96 Langenwang, 530 Langkofel, 354 Langthaler Eis See, 194 Lannersbach, 389 , Lappacb, 337 ; Lastei, 291 I Latsch, 159 j Latteis, 372 , Latzfons, 233 Laufen, 100, 542 Laufzettel, xxxi ■ Lauter, 20 Lavamund, 600 Lave none, 405 1 Lavis, 242, 281 Laxenburg, 510 I LIZZANA. Lebring, 539 Lebenberg castle, 161 Lecco, 165 ; lake, 1G6 ’ Lech river, 14; valley, 12' i Lechfeld, battle of the, 14 - Lechleiten, 148 Ledro waterfall, 250; la 407 Leiblach, 9 i T^eibnitz, 539 Leibnitzerfeld, 539 j Leisach, 321 I Leitzachthal, 36 j 71, 78, 149, 399 ' Lendorf, 319 Lengdorf, 395 Lengenfeld, 192, 218, 593 Lengmoos, earth pyramids, 235, 238 j Leoben, 436, 446, 570 I Leobersdorf, 512 I Leonhard, St., 197, 220, 326, 333 , 348, 469, 601 Leopoldskirchen, 583 Leopolds teinersee, 443 Leprese, 173 Lermoos, 16 Lettusch, 542 Levico, lake of, 295; town, 295 Liboch, 536 Liechtenstein, 127; castle, 127, 509 Lienz, 316 - to Heiligenblut, 316, 472 - to Windisch Matrc}', 443 -to JMittersill in Pinzgau, 343 Lienzer-Klause, 316 Liesing, 508 Lietzin, 435 -to Admont, 438 Lilienfeld, 497 Limone, 251 Lindau, 9, 10 - * to Augsburg, 5 Linz, 54 ; public buildings , 55; beauty of its situation , 55; fortifications, views, 55; steamers, railways &c., 56 -to Vienna, 56 -* to Salzburg, 47 - to Ischl and Aussee - to Eisenerz and Gratz , 440 Littai, 543 Livinalungo, 122, 349 Lizzana, 246 623 INDEX. 624 LO DRONE. Lodrone, 278,406 Lofer, 92, 377 Jjoibelthal, 462; pass, 465 Loisachthal, 25 Longarone, 367 Loocli, 593 Loppio, lake, 249 Lorenzago, 373, 586 Lorina, val, 407 Lorenzen, St., 312, 321, 347 Losdorf, 59 Losenstein, 442 Lovere, 403 Lovero, 172 Lozzo, 373 Lubiama, 543 Lucia, St., 247, 293, 363 liUcano, Valle di S., 308 Lueg pass, 72, 75 -, castle of, 562 Lugano, St., 282 Lukau, 320 LUner See, 132 Luiigau, 450 Luschariberg mountain, 582 Liisentlial, 233 Lussnitz, 583 Liittacb, 338 Lutzbach, 132 Luziensteig pass, 129 M. Maderno, 251 Madonna della Corona, 247 Madonna di Tirano, 171 Magasa, 407 Magdalena Grotto, 557 Magleru, 580 Magre, 417 Mtihrenberg, 599 Maienfeld, 129 Maja buried by an eartbslip, 161 Majolica, 167 Malborgetb, 583 Malcesina, 251 Male, 188, 261, 268 Malenco, val, 170 Malero river, 170 Malnitz, 81 Malo, 413 Mals in Tyrol, 155, 182 Malta, 452 Mangert, 592 Mangfall, 19, 39 MarMrg, 540 Marchtrenk, 54 Marco, San, Slovino, 246 Maria, St., 156, 176, 268,354. 458, 556 Maria Hilf, 513 MIEDERS. Maria Lukau, 320 -Luschari, 582 -- Saal, 577 -Thai, 38 Mariazell, 494; shrine of the Black Virgin, 494 -to Bruck, 497 —- to Brandhof, 498 -to Eisenerz, 500 Marktl, 497 Marling, 266 I Marmolata, 122; ascent of, 288 I Marone, 404 I Marostica, 418 I Martellthal, 159, 262 Martin, St., 219 Martino, St., 304 Martinswand, 137 Mas, 421 Maser, 419 Masi, 296 Masino, val, 170 Matarello, 244 Matrey, 227 Mattaun, 564 Mauls, 231 Jlaultasch, Margaret, 116, I 136, 163 Mauria, 586 Mautcrndorf, 450 Mauthen, 321 Mauthhausel, 23 Maximilian, Emperor, his adventure on the Martins¬ wand, 137; his monument at Innsbruck, 138; his grave at Neustadt, 516 Mayerbach, 136 Mayrhofen, 384 Maziii, 285 Mazzo, 173 Medraz, 210 Meidling, 507 Melleck, 377 Mellau, 146 Mendelscharte pass, 260 Mendola, 239, 267 j Mendling, 505 ! Meran, 160 -*10 Landek, 151 -to Botzen, 163 -to Sterzing, 218 -to Brescia, 265 Mercury-mines at Idria, 549 Mestre, 369, 589 Mezzano, 305 Mezzo-Lombardo, 25 8_ Mezzo-Tedesco, 258 Michael, St., 45 r Michele, St., 241 Mieders, 210 MUNICH. Mies, 464 Miesbach, 35 Miesenbachthal. 22 Milan, 165; to Innsbruck, 164 Milders, 211 Millstadt, 454 Mils, 135 Mis, val di, 306 Miselbach, 145 Mittenvvald, 27 Mitterbach, 497 Mitterbad, 162, 262 Mitterdorf, 597 Mitterndorf, 435 Mittersill, 381, 394 j Mittewald, 231, 358 I-on the Drave, 316 I Mixnitz cave, 531 I Mudling, 508 Moena, 285 Moggio, 585 Moistrana, 593 Molina, 282 Mdlk, town and monastery, 58 Moll river, 319 Mdllthal, beauties of, water¬ falls, &c., 472 Molveno, vill. and lake, 254, 259, 275 Miinchsberg, 50 Mondadizza, 173 Mondsee, 430 Monfalcone, 604 Montafun, vale of, i Montan, 282 Montechio, 414 Monza, 165 ; iron crown, 165 i Moos, 196, 221, 370 I Morbegno, 169 Mordenau, 150 I Mori, 246, 248 . Mdrtshach, 475 ! Mozart’s birthplace, 49 I Mud-baths of Ischl, 97 j Muda, 349 ^ 351 Miihlau, 42 I MUhlbach, 77, 221, 312, 358 Miihlbachthal, 395 Miihlbacher Klause, 312 Miililen, 337, 573 Mulineto, 419 Munich, 24 -to Salzburg, by Traun- stein, 21 -to Salzburg, by Rosen¬ heim and Chiemsee, 18 -to Innsbruck, by Lake of Starnberg, 24 -to Innsbruck, by Bene- dictbeuern, 28 (5*25 INDEX. 62G MUNICH. Munich to Innsbruck, by Te- gernsee and Kreuth, jo -to Innsbruck, by Rosen¬ heim, 38 - to Innsbruck, by the Schliersee, 35 ^lUnstertbal, 155 Mur, vale of the, 450, 540 Murau, 572 IVIurnau, 25 Murthal, 436 Murz river, 500 Murzsteg, 492 Miirzzuscblag, 491, 530 Musau, 15 Music in Tyrol, 114 Muthmannsdorf, 517 N. - Xabresina, 568, 603 Xagles, 466, 598^ Nago, 249 Nakle, 564 Narabino, val, 268 Nambrone, val, 269 Nassereit, 17, 136 Nassfe’d, 86 Xaturns, 160, 208 Nauders, 134 Neders, 210 Xenzing, 132 Xesselgraben, 376 Xesselwang, 12 Neubaiern, 39 Neuberg, 162, 491 Xeuhaus, castle, 336 Neubilusel, 514 Xeukirchen, 393 Xeulengbach, 59 Neunhauser, 324 Neumarkt, 53, 241, 282,572 Xeumarktl, 466 Neunkircben, 518 Xeustadt, 515 ; military’aca- demy, 516 Neustift, 211, 232, 311 Nicolo, St., 184, 409 Nicolsdorf, 318 Xiederalm, 72 Xiederalpl, 492 Niederied, 224 Nieder Jocb, 20 j Niederndorf, 314, 359 Xiedernsill, 395 Nieder Rasen, 324 Nieder Sonthofensee, 7 Noce, river, 256, 258, 262 Non and Sole, vale of, 256, 261 OSPITALE. Nonsberg, 256 Nordheim, 223 Noric Alps, 118 Noriglio,4o9 Notscb, 579 0 . Oberau, 25, 231 Oberaudorf, 39 Ober-Ammergau, 25 Oberbergtbal, 211, 228 Oberdorf, 7 Ober-Drauburg, 318 Ober-Grainau, 26 Obergurgl, 194 Oberhof, 526 Ober Ladis, 152 Ober-Laibach, 549 Ober-Lesece, 564 Obermaiselstein, ii Ober-Mauern, 331 Ober-Mieming, 18, 136 Ober-Piestring, 513 Oberreitnau, 9 Ober-Ritten, 238 Ober Scbmirn, 227, 389 Obersee, 66 Ober Seeland, 470 Oberstaufen, 8 Oberstdorf, ii, 147 Obertraun, 102 Ober-Vellach, 88, 474 -* to Gastein, 84 Ober Vernagt, 205, 206 Ober Weissbach, 91 Ochsenberg, 8 Ocbsenboden, 521 Ocbsengarten, 191 Oedenburg, 518 Oefen, 74 Oetschen Wirtbshaus, 390 Oetz, 191 Oetztbal, 117, 135, 153, 190; glaciers and scenery, 190 Ofen, 156 Oifensee, 96 Ofterscbwang, ii Oglio river, 186, 264, 401 Olcio, 167 ‘ Oldach, 602 Oliero, 299 Olle, 296 Orlik, 567 Ormanico, 304 Orteler Spitze, 123, 177 ; glo¬ rious view of, 155, 177; ascent of, 180 Ospedaletto, 586 Ospitale, 360 PFORZEN. Ossiacb, lake of, 455 Ottok, 595 Oji-hal, 12, 150 P. Pademione, 254 Palfau, 505 Paluzza, 322, 585 Pancbia, 283 Paneveggio, 283 Pankraz, St„ 262 Pappenheim, 95 Paracelsus, 49, 455 Paralba, ascent of, 321 Parona, 247 Partenkircben, 26 Partschins, 160 Pacing, 24 Passeyrtbal, 161, 218 Passion-play, 26 ^ Passports, xxiii Pasterze glacier, 477 Paternion, 319, 454 Patscherkofel, 143, 226 Pattenen, 133 Peasants’ war (Bauernkreig), 50; insurrection of Protes¬ tant peasants, 95 Peasants’ comedies, 114, 143 Pedescala, 412 Pedlers, 297 Peggau, 531 Pejo baths, 188, 261, 263 Pelizzano, 188, 262 Pelos, 73 Pelugo, 276 Penia, 287 Penk, 474 Penserthal, 224 Penzing, 59 Perarolo, 367 Pergine, 244, 295 Peri, 247 Persenburg, 58 Pescatina, 247 Peschiera, 253 Pescul, 293, 365 Peter, St., 57, 319. 558, 564 Petersberg castle, 136, 57 Petersbrunnen, 485 Petnen, 134 Peutelstein, 360 Pezzo, 186 PfafFstetten, 510 Pfandler, 130 Pfandlscbarte pass, 487 Pfitschjocb, 230 Pflach, 15 Pflersch, 229 Pforzen, 6 627 INDEX. 628 PFOSSENTIIAL. RAUBLING. RUNKELSTEIN. Pfossentbal, 207 Pfunds, 15 j Pbilippina "Welscr, ber tomb, 141; ber residence at Am- bras, 142 Piazza, 169, 409 Picolein, 448 Piestiiiff. 513 Pietra Murata, 255 Pieve di Cadore, j66, 774 -di Rendena, 276 -di Buono, 278 -di Tesino, 296 -di Primiero, 40J -di Ledro, 407 Pilgrimages: — Mariazell, 494; Maria Saal, 577; Maria Luscbari, 582 Pinzgau, 90, 481, J91 Pinzgauer-Hoblweg, 91 Pinzolo, 269 Piovene, 412 Pisogne, 40J Pitztbal, 135, 198 Plan, 352 Planina, 558 Plansee, 16 Plattenberg, 391 Platzers, 267 Pocblarn, 58 Pockborn, 476 Pockstein, 574 Podgradj, 564 Poik, the, 557 Poja river, 401 Polten, St., 59, 497 Pdltschacb, 540 Polsterlang, ii Ponale, fall, 250, 251, 407 Pongau, 75, 89 Ponigl, 541 Pontafel.i ■) Pontebba, j Ponte del Diavolo, 173 -di Legno, 186, 264 Pontresina, 172 Pordenone, 586 Possagno, Canova's birtb place, 300, 419 • Possino, lake, 368 Possnitz, 540 Posting, xxxi Pottenbrunn, 59 Pottenstein, 512 Pottscbacb, 522 Prad, 182 Pragerhof, 540 Prags, vale and baths, 314 Pranzo, 250 Priivali, 602 Piaxemar, 213 Predazzo, 283 Predil pass, 608 Pregraten, 332, 342 Prein, 524 Prejana, 563 Preromanz, 348 Presanella, 271 Presbaum, 59 Prese, le, 172 Preseglie, 405 Preson, 262, 268 Prestanek, 564 Preth, 608 Prewald, 563 Prien, 20 Primiero, 297, 302 ! Primolano, 297, 302 j -to Cortina d’ Arapezzo, I 301 I Prinzersdorf, 59 Pi-libel, 6oi Prosecco, 568 Proseck, 345 Protestants in Salzburg, 78; in the Zillerthal, 384 Proteus angumus, 557 Prutz, 153 Purkersdorf, 59 Pusthertbal, 119, 311 Or Quero, 419 Quicksilver-mine, 549 Quirico, St., 415 E. Rabbi baths, 261 Rabbies torrent, 261 Raccolana, 584 Radmannsdorf, 595, 597 Radstadt, 447 Radstadter-tauern, 447 Raibl, 581, 609 Railways, xxvi Rainstein, 521 Rainthal, 26, 337 Rakek, 551 Ramsau, 66 Ranalt, 214 Raossi, 409 Rappenalpenthal, 12, 148 Raspenstein, 228 Ratscbach, 583 Ratteis, 207 Rattenberg, 38, 40 Ratzes baths 235, 287, 357 Raubling, 39 Rauris, 398,487 Rauriser Tauern, 398, 484 Rauristbal, 398 Recca river, 564, 567 Recoaro, 246, 415 Rcdl, 53 Reichenau, 524 Reicbenhall, 63 ; salt springs, brine aqueducts, 375 Reifling, 443, 505 Reitbof, 526 Remscbenig, 469 Rendena, val, 265 Rennweg, 452 Rescben, 154 Rescbensee, 154 Resiutta, 585 Reut, 90 Reutte, 15, 151 Ridnaun, 230 Ried, 153 Riegsee, 25 Rienz river, 311 Rigolato, 372, 585 Rigoledo, 167 Ritten, 238 Rittnerhorn, 239 Ritzenreid, 199 Riva, 244, 249, 427 Rivoli, 247 Roana, 413 Rocca, 250, 291 Rochetta pass, 241, 258 Rockavvinkel, 59 Rofnerhof, 202 Robitsch baths, 541 Rohr, 515 Robrerbiicbel, 381 Roitham, 94 Romano, 418 Romedio, 260, 267 Romeno, 267 Romerbad, 542 Ronach, 391 Roncone, 278 Rosanna, 134 Rosengarten, 122, 284 Rosenheim, 19, 39 Rossfeld, 73 Rothenbach, 8 Rottenmann, 436 Rotzo, 412, 413 Rovegliana, 416 Roveredo, 245, 409 - to Riva on Lago di Garda, 248 -to Vicenza, 408 Rubenstein, 196 Ruderatshofen, 7 Rufredo, 260, 267 Rubpolding, 22 Rimkelstein castle, 222, 238 r G2D INDEX, 630 RUPRECIIT. Ruprecht, S., 52, 330 Russbach, 107 Rutzbach stream, 209, 226 S. Saaga, 606 Saal, valley of the, J75 Saalach,2i, 88, 90 Saalfelden, 70, 90 Sachseiiburg, J19, 454 -to Heiligenblut, 472 Saeile, 589 Sagrado, 005 Sagnitz, 476 Sagor, 543 Sagron, 306 Saifnitz, 582, 583 Salcano, 605 Sale ilarasino, 404 Salloch, 543 Salo, 252, 405 Sals, 159 Salthaus, 216 Salt-mines, 46 -works, 47 ' - vapour-baths at Ischl, 97 Salurn, 241 Salza, 449; river, 391. 49 i Salzach, 21, 72, 391 Salz-bund, 78 Salzburg, sketch of territory, 43-45 Salzburg, 47; beauties of its situation, 48; bishops’ castle, 50; Mdnchsberg, 50; public and private buildings, 49, 50; excur¬ sion to Aigen, 51; Hell- brunn, 52; Hallein salt- mines, 52 -* to Munich, 21 •-to Linz, 47 -to Vienna, 47 -to Berchtesgaden, 61 -to Bad Gastein, 71 | -to Innsbruck, 374 i - to Gratz, by Ischl and 1 Aussee, 429 j -to Laibach, by the Pass ! of the Radstadter Tauern, i 446 I Salzkammergut, 45, 92 ; Sann river, 541 ' ! Santa Croce, 368 Sanzan, 419 1 Sapotnik, 462, 465 Sappada, 371, 585 I Sarca river, 249, 254, 255, 269, 277 SEBEN. SPIELFELD. Sarche, 254 Sarnthal, 163, 220, 222 1 Sarnthein, 220, 223, 238 Sarnico, 404 Sarri^ a, 302 ' Sasso di Daram, 284 j -di Pelmo, 365 : Sauerlach, 19 Sauris, 372, 586 Sautens, 191 Sava,543 Save, valley of the, 542; sources of, 591; mouth of, steam navigation on, 558 Schabs, 312 Schafberg, 148, 431 Schaftlarn, 29 Schalders, 232 Scharnitz, 27 Scbattwald, 12 Scheffau, 108 Scheifling, 572 Schellenberg, 62 Schilpario, 403 Schio,4ii •-to Belluno, 417 Schladming, 448 Schlacters, 9 Sell landers, 159 Schleier fall, 83, 85 Schlern, 239 Schliersee, 32, 36 ! Schlitters, 383 Schluderns, 156 Schludersbach, 314, 360 Schmetz, 182 Schmirnerthal, 227 Schnalserthal, 160, 206 Schneeberg, 77, 196, 519 Schneizelreit, 376 Schnepfau, 146 I Schdna castle, 162, 218 | Schdnau, 196 Schiinberg, beautiful view of,! 142, 210, 226 Schonbrunn, 508 Schopernau, 146 [ Schdsswend, 346 j Schottwien, 525, 528 I Schruns, 133 I Schwabmiinchen, 6 I Schwanberg, 536 i Schwannstadt, 53 j Schwarzach, 78, 144 I Schwarzau, 515, 527 ; river, j 521- 1 Schwarzbach waterfall, 74 ! Schwarzberg Klannn, 377 Schwarzenbach, 464 Schwarzenberg, 145 Schwaz, 34, 41 Seben nunnery, 2 34 I See, 2or; meaning of, xi ' Seefeld, 27 , Seekirchen, 52 See Kogel, 314 i Seeshaupt, 25 , Seehause, 196 Seewiesen, 499 ' Segfriedsburg, ir Seiss, 357 I Seisser Alp, 356 Seissenberger Klannn, 67, 9 i» 377 Sekkau, 571 Selrain, 214, 239 Selrainthal, 21; Selsach, 551, 561 Selva, 293 Semilaun Spitze, 2o6> Semmering, 529 Send ling, 28 Sentis, 9 Semiioncj 252 Sernio, landslip near, 172 Serravalle, 246, 368 Sessana, 566 Sette Comuni, 296, 298, 412 Seven Bridges, 471 Sexten, 370; valley, 315 Sforzellina pass, 187 Siebenbrunnen, ;o2 Sieding, 519 Sieglitz fall, 83 Siegsdorf, 21 Sierning, 519 Sigismund, St., 213 Sigmundsburg, castle of, 17 Sigmundskron, 163, 237 Signorii valley of the, 416 Sill river, 42; valley, 226 Sillian, 315 -to Villach, 320 Silz, 136, 191 Simsee, zo Siror, 304 Slovino di San Jlarco, 246 Socchieve, 586 Scilden, 193 Sole, val di, 261 Solenau, 512 Solferino, 252 Soil, 379 Sollstein mountains, 137 Sondalo, 173 Sondrio, 170, 265 -to Brescia, 400 Sonntag, 132 Sonthofen, 11 Sorapiss, ascent of, 363 Sottoguda, 290 Spechbacher, 42, 226; his grave, 42 Spielfeld, 539 C31 INDEX. 632 SPINALE. Spinale, Monte, 268 Spinges, 231, J58 Spital, 319,45?, 529 Splugen road, 168 Spitzbach, 486 Spitzingsee, 37 Spondalunga, 176 Spondinig, 156, 182 iSpor, 258, 259 Spranserthal, 219 Spresiano, 369, 589 Staaben, i6o, 208 Staffelsee, 25 ' Stafflacb, 227 Stainz, 536 Stall, 475 Stallhofen, 474 Staras, convent of, 136 Stagna, la, 422 StanzacL, 150 Stanzerthal, 134 Starnberg, 24; lake of, 24 Staubi waterfall, 16 Staufen, 8,145 Stefano, St., 270, 371 Steg, 235, 357 . 447 Steiermark or Styria, 425 Stein, 230, 547 Stein pass, 449 Steina, 515 Steinach, 215, 227, 435, 448 Steinbriick, 542 Steiner Alp Caldron, 541 Steinerne Meer, 66, 69 Steinfeld, 319 Steinhaus, 338, 385 Stenico, 277 Stelvio, pass of, 123, 164, i' Stephanskirch, 20 Stern, 352 Sterzing, 221, 229 Sterzinger-Moos, 2jo Steyer, 440 Stilfs, 182, 224 Stilfser-Joch, road over, 177 Stilluperthal, 385 Stockach, 149 Stockenboyerthal, 318, 454 Stdg, 149 Stolhof, 517 Store, 541 Storo, 255, 406 Strass, 41, 382 -Walchen, 53 Strassburg, 574 Strassengel, 532 Strembo, 276 Strigno, 296 Strub pass, 377 Stubay Thai, 117, 191, 208 Stuben, 33, i 34 . i 5 J j TIMELKAM. Stubing, 532 Stulilfelden, 395 Stuhlweissenburg, 540 Styria, 425; forests of, 426 ; iron of, 444; game, 502; wines, 535 Sugana, Val, 244, 295 Sulden, 160, 181 Sulm river, 536 : Sulzbach, 464, 542 Sulzbachthal, 392 Sulzberg, 256 Sulzenau, 215 TRISANNA. I Timmersdorf, 436 Tione, 255, 276 Tirano, 171 Tissenthal, 206 Titian’s birth • place, 366 ; paintings by, 293. 366, 367 Tdblach, 314; See, 359 Tofano, Monte, 360 Tofern, 78 Tolmein, 606 Tolmezzo, 322, 372, 585 Tonadigo, 306 Tonale, Monte, 171, 187 Tongara, 416 Toplitzersee, 434 Torbole, 249 Torkele, 356 Torre Belvicino, 410 Torri, 252 Torture-chamber, 76 Toscolano, 251, 407 Trafoi, 179 Traisen, 59 I Tramin, 241 I Transacqua, 304 i Traun, falls, 53, 94; lake, 95 ; 1 source, 433 ' Traunkirchen, 96 Traunsee, 22, 95 Traunstein in Bavaria, 20; salt-works, 20 Traunstein mountain, 94, 95 Trebitsch cavern, 567 Tremosine, 251 Trenkwald, 199 i Trent, 242; Dom, 242; j church, castle, 243 -to Caprile and Cortina, 280 -to Verona, 244 -to the Lago di Garda, 255 !-to Val di Non, 256 I -to Venice, by Val Su- 1 gana, 294 '- * to Innsbruck, by the I Brenner, 225 ! Trenta, 59? I Tre Ponti, 373 Tresenda, 171, 265, 400 Trett, 267 Trettachthal, 12 Treviso, 301, 369, 589 Trieben, 436 Trieste, 568; objects of in¬ terest, language, climate, steamers, 569 -J to Laibach and Gratz, 518 -to Villach, 603 Trigesimo, 587 Trisanna, 134 T. Tagliamento river, 588 'I’ai, 364 Taibon, 306 Tai Cadore, 366 Talfer river, 236 Tamsweg, 450, 572 Tannheim, 12 Tarvis, 580, 581, 610 Taubensee, 67 j Taufers, 337 ! Taufersthal, 313, 336 Tavernelle, 414 Taxenbach, 89, 398 Tedesco, 271 Tefereggenthal, 326, 344 Tegernsee, 31 Tegisch stream, 333 Teglio, 171 I Teichmiihle, 517 I Teisendorf, 21 ( ' Telfes, 210 Telfs, 18, 137 Tenno, vill. and lake, 250 Teplitz, baths, 542 Terglou mountain, 594, 597 Terlago, 254 Terlan, 163 , Teruitz, 522 Tesero, 283 Tesino, val, 297 Thalam, 35 Thalgau, 430 Thiergarten, 104 Thiersee, 37 Thumsee, 23, 376 Thun, 259 Thiiringen, 132 Thurn, 348 ; pass, 381 Tiene, 418 Tilliach, 320 Timao, 604 Timau, 322 Timavus, 604 Timbler Joch pass, 194 Timelkam, 53 683 INDEX. 6S4 TROFAJACir. Trofajach, 446 Trostburg castle, 2 J4 Tschau, 579 Tueno, 259 , Tuffer, 542 Tweng, 450 Tycho Brahe’s Observatory in Styria, 538 Tyrnitz, 497 Tyrol: passports, xxiii; cus¬ toms, xxiv; money, xxv; measures, distances, rail¬ ways, xxvi; eilwagen, se- parat - wagen, stellwagen, XXX; posting, xxxi ; horses and mules, xxxii; guides, inns, xxxiii; gene¬ ral hints, xxxiv; health, xxxvi; maps, xxxvii; boundaries, iii - 113. Northern Tyrol: scenery, inhabitants, bistory, ti 3 - 118. Central Alpine range, 117 -119. South - Eastern Tyrol: dolomite moun¬ tains, four chief dolomite valleys, inliabitants, 119- 123. South - ‘Western Tyrol; Orteler, Adamello, and Brenta Alta groups, 123, 124. Tours through Tyrol, 124-128 -Schloss, i6o, 162 u. Uderns, 383 Udine, 587 Ubersee, 20 Uggowitz. 583 Ulrich, St, 354i 378 Ultenthal, 262, 266 Umbalthal, 332 Umhausen in the Oetzthal, 192 Unken, 22, 377 Unsre-Frau, 205, 206 Unterau, 231 Unterbergen, 465 Unterhofen, 150 Unter-Laner, 266 Unterloibl, 462, 465 Unter-Loitsch, 549 Unter-Ritten, 238 Untersberg, 62 Untertauern, 449 Unter-Vintl, 312, 358 Unz, caverns of the, 559 Unzmarkt, 572 Uttendorf, 395 Uttenheim, 336 VOCKLABRUCK. V. Vaduz, 128 Vahrn, 232 A^al Camonica, 263 -Sugana, 294 Valdagno, 415 Valdidena, 316 Valentin, St, 57, i 55 , 3 I 3 .339 Valle, 366, 410 Valstagna, 298, 413 Valtelline, 168 Varenna, 167 Veit, St., 326, 512, 574 Velden, 457 Veldes, 548, 595; lake of, 596 Vellach, Ober, 88, 474 Veltums, 233 Venediger-Spitze, 332 Venice, 301, 369 , Venzone, 586 Verona, St., 235 Venniglio, 263 Vernagtfernei', 204 Verona, 247 Vestone, 279, 405 Vezza, 264 Vezzano, 254 Vicenza, 413 -to Schio, 414 Vienna: lines, inns, chief objects of interest, 60 -to Gratz, 506 -to Mariazell, 490 -*to Salzburg, 47 -to Venice by Juden- burg, Pontebba, Udine, 570 Vigil, St., 348 Vigilio, St., 252, 270 Vigo. 239. 276, 284, 37 i Viktring, 464 Villa, 276, 372, 585 Villach, 454,579,610; battle, 455 „ . -*to Bnxen, 310 -to Laibach, by the Save, 590 -*to Trieste, 603 Vilminore, 403 Vilpian, 163 Vintschgau, 156, 208 Virgen,331 Virgenthal, 331, 344 Vito, St., 362 Vittnach, 597 Vobarno, 405 Vdckla river, 53 Vdcklabruck, 53 WILDALPEN. Vdcklamarkt, 53 Volderau, 214 Volders, 34 Volkermarkt, 602 Vdllan, 266 Vols, 357 Vorarlberg, 113, 130 Vordenberg, 446 Vordersee, 107 Viislau, 511 W. Waidisch, 463 Waidring, 378 Walchensee, 29 Wald, 392 Waldbach-strub, loi Waldeck, 513 Wald East, 210 Wallersee, 30, 52 Wallgau, 30, 13 1 Wiilschenhofen, 239 Wiilschmetz, 258 Waltenhofen, 7 AValtenthal, 221 Warth, 148 AVatzmann, 62, 68 AVegscheid, 493,498 AVeichselboden, 502 AVeidlingau, 59; AVeiherburg castle, 143 AVeilheim, 25 AVeissachthal, 8 AVeissbach, 91 AVeissenbach, 99, 151, 223 AVeissenfels lakes, 592 Weissensee, 318 AVeisskugel, 203 AVeissnix, 521 AVelfenstein castle, 230 AVels, 54, 94 AVelsberg, 313 AVelser family, 141, 142 AVendelstein, 39 AVengenthal, 348 AVenns, 199 AVerfen, 76, 447 AVertach, river, 6 AVesterham, 19 AVesterringen, 6 AA'‘etterspitz, 132 AVeyer, 442 AVieu, or Vienna, 60 AVien river, 59 AViener-Neustadt, 515 AVienerbriicke, 497 AVienerwald, 59 AViesberg, 134 AVildalpen, 503 i I ■ 1l Wildbad-Gastein, 8i, 488 Wilder Pfaff, 216 Wildniss, 98 Wildpoldzried, 7 Wildspitze, 199, 203 Wilhelmsberg, 497 Wilten, 225 AVimbachthal, 67 AVindiscli-Feistritz, 461 Windisch-Matrci, J27, 342, 344 -to Brunecken, 33J. Winkel, 337 Wlnkl, 478 Winklern, its beautiful situation, 473 Wipbach, 551 Wirflacb, 520 Wirl, 133 Wochein See, 596 Wolfgang, St,, lake of, 99, 430; village, 337, 431,485 Wolfgang, St., im Fusch, 396 Wolfrathshausen, 29 Wolfsbachthal, 581 Wolfsberg, 537, 600 Wolkenstein, 351, 354 Wcillersdorf, 513 Wood-carvers. 353 Worgl, 30, 379 to JMittersill, 380 Worms, 173 Worth, 486 Wdrthersee, 457 Wiirm river, 24 Wurmsee, 24 Wunnser Joch, road of, 156, 176 Wurzen Save, 583, 591; valley of, 590, 591 Z. Zamserthal, 386 Zams, nunnery of, 135 Zaiinhorf, 199 Zebru, val del, 184 Zell, 37 THE END. ZWISCIIEN. Zell am See, 90 Zell ill Zillerthal, 341, 383 ; Protestants expelled from, „ 3^4 Zellermoos, 89 Zemgrund, 387 Zemthal, 386 Zeno, St., 375 Zenoberg, 290 Ziano, 283 Zillerthal, 40, 41, 118, 313, 382, 384 Zirknitz, 561; lake, 561 Zirl, 28, 137 Zoldo, val di, 309 Zullfeld, 576 ; antiquities, Herzogs Stuhl, 576 Zoppd, 366 Zorzoi, 302 Zuel, 364 Zuglio, 322 Zugspitze, 17, 25, 26 Zwieselalp, 107 Zwieselstein, 194 Zwischen Wasser, 348, 574 j " ■"■'if^iliii'itn. ''"fli :i'll!lli"s! y'/'*'/ W‘a, ^'VsW--^ '^:ai;ii,Sr sC'"''?® w'a'vPiS^ Ml'w MAKMOLATA DISTIUC'T risMijini ''innW'"."'' (it»^< 5 'yA ■w^ % 7 ^ „-'■ fi'.'Willlll/iVV'uu/ sT/. '•*'•.,-^-. •■''VAVu///'/ 'tiiiliilhy. *&s isj^'v. iMd L ''Js^chnrt(fi ^V>v<<»» vi'i'i'U-V. I Q-. 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