THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY From the collection of Julius Doerner, Chicago Purchased, 1918. 917.7 . l'I:NOiS HIST'uRrAl SWit' r-^^: ^ II THE AMKHICAU I-ALLtt JiY ilOOSMGBT. Till- GKEAT LAKES, OB INLAND SEAS OF AMERICA; EMBRACtNO ▲ PXLL DESCUirnON OF LAKES SUPERIOR, HERON, MICHIGAN, ERIE, AND ONTARIO ; RIVERS ST. MARY, ST. CLAIR, DETROIT, NIAGARA, AND ST. LAWRENCE; LAKE WINNIPEG, ETC.: TOOETIIER WITU TtlB COMMERCE OF THE LAIvES, AND TRIPS THROUGH THE LAKES: GIVING A DESCRIPTION OF CITIES, TOWNS, ETC. FORMING AI.TOGETIIER 3. Complete ©uibc FOR THE PLEASURE TRAVELLER AND EMIGRANT. CHitb iHap anb icmttllisjmtnls. COMPILED BY J. DISTURNELL, AUTHOR OF TUB ** FIOrCRBSQCK TOURIST, " BTG. NEW YORK: FUBLISHKD BY CHARLES SCRIBIS'ER, NO. 12-i GEAND STIiKET, 18C3. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by JOHN DISTURNELL, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. 9; . PREFACE. In presenting to the Public the present volume, entitled " The Great Lakj£s, or ' IxLAND Seas' of America," embracing the Magnitude of the Lakes — Commerce of the Lakes— Trip through the Lakes— Route from Lake Superior to Lake Winnipeg — Tables of Distances, etc., together with a Description of Xiiigara Falls and the St. Lawrence River, the Compiler w^ishes to return his sincere thanks for the liberal patronage and the many kind favors received from those who have doubly assisted him, by contributing reliable and useful information in regard to the mnny interesting localities in which the Great Valley of the Lakes and of the St. Lawrence abounds, affoiding altogether many new and interest- ing facts of great importance to the Tourist, who may wish to visit the Inland Seas of America for health or pleasure ; the tour being one of the most healthy, picturesque, and wonderful — when viewed as a whole, from Lake Winnipeg to Lake Superior, and thence to the Gulf of St. Lawrence — on the face of the globe. In the arrangement and compilation of this work every attempt has been made to render the information it contains concise and truthful. The Magnitude and also the Commerce of the Lakes are themes of great interest, they now being whitened by a large fleet of sail-vessels, in ad- dition to the swift steamers and propellers which plough the waters of these Great Lakes, transporting annually large numbers of passengers, and an immense amount of agricultural and mineral products, to and from the different ports^ ^ r\ ^ • » «.> PREFACE. Lake Superior, the TTltima Thule of many travellers, can now be easily reached by lines of steamers starting from Cleveland and Detroit, running through Lake Huron and the St. Mary's River ; or from Chi- cago and Milwaukee, passing through Lake Michigan and the Straits of Mackinac. All these routes are fully described, in connection with the Collingwood Route, and Route to Green Bay ; affording altogether ample and cheap opportunities to visit every portion of the Upper Lakes and their adjacent shores. The most noted places of Resort are Mackinac, Saut Ste. Marie, Muni- sing, near the Pictured Rocks, Marquette, Houghton, Copper Harbor, Ontonagon, Bayfield, and Superior City. If to these should be added a Trip to the North Shore of Canada, visiting Michipicoten Island, Fort William, and other interesting localities — passing Isle Royale, attached to the State of Michigan — the intelligent Tourist would see new wonders of almost indescribable interest, while inhaling the pure atmosphere of this whole region of Lake Country. Among the Mineral Regions may be found objects of interest sufficient to induce the tourist to spend some weeks or months in exploration, hunting, and fishing ; and if, added to this, should be included a journey to the Upper Mississippi Valley, or Lake Winnipeg, an entire season could be profitably employed. For a full description of the Lower St. Lawrence, Lake Champlain, Saguenay River, etc., the Traveller is referred to the "Picturesque Tourist," issued a few years since. J. D. New York, July, 1863. CONTENTS. PART I. Pa«e. IVa^niltndc of tlic I^akos or *^ In I and Seas."— Lake Superior, 13 Liiko Miehijjan — Groon Bay — I>iikf Huron — (ieorgian Buy — Lake St, Clair — L;Ueriur— Nprth Shore, L-'t Fort William, C. W.— McKay's Mountain- Kaministiquai River, l-j Thunder Bay— Pie Island— Black Bay— Neepigon Bay— Island of St. Ignac-e, li'.O PART IV. • Rootc from Lake Superior to Lake Wiiiiipeg. Dog Lake — Savan or Prarie Portage, Ac, J;^ ' Savan River— Rainy Lake and River — Lake of the Woods 13J< Winnipeg River— Lake Winnipeg • • • • • • J^'"^ Lakes in the VaUey of the Saskatchewan— Red River ot the ^orU^ I H» Ked River Settlement, ]^ '_ Diatancea fVom Fort William to Fort Alexander, Fort Garry. A<- 1 1'- VUl. CONTENTS. PART V. Railroad and steamboat Route from Buffalo to l^iagara Fall§, Toronto &c 143 Waterloo — Grand Island — Xavy Island — Chippewa, 143 Falls of Niagara — Drummondsville — Battle of Lundy's Lane,. 144 Clifton — Queenston — Brock's Monument, 145 Fort George — Fort Niagara — Niagara River, » . . 146 Grand Island — Tonawanda — Schlosser's Landing — The Rapids — Goat Island, 147 Goat Island Bridge— Bath Island, &c., 148 Niagara — Horse-Shoe Fall, &c., ' 149-150 Whirlpool and Rapids — Tillage of Niagara Falls — Niagara City, 151 Suspension Bridge and the Cateraet and Rapids of Niagara^ 152-154 Rate of Charges at Niagara Falls — Lewiston — Youngstown, 155-156 Route Around Lake Ontario, 156 Lake Ontario, 157 Fort Niagara^ — Mouth of Niagara River, 158 Steamboat Route from Lewiston to Oswego, Kingston and Ogdensburgh, 159 Steamboat Route from Lewiston to Toronto, Kingston, Montreal, &c 159 Alphabetical List of the Principal Ports on the Great Lakes — Situation, Temperature, &c., .' 160-162 PART YI. Adverti§emen't§. — Cleveland, Detroit and Lake Superior — Steamers Meteor and Ilhnois, 163 Steamers Northern Light, and City of Cleveland, 164 Steamer Traveler — Pleasure Excursions, 165 Steamer Iron City — Detroit and Cleveland Line of Steamboats, 166 Chicago Line for Lake Superior — Steamer Planet — Steamboat' Line for Milwaukee, &c., 167 Northern Transportation Company of Ohio, 168 Grand Trunk Line of Steamers, and Grand Trunk Railway, 169 Buflalo and Lake Huron Railway and Screw Steamers, 170 American Express Line — Lake Ontario and River St. Lawrence, 171 Royal Mail Line from Toronto to Kinj^ston, Ogdensburgh and Montreal, 172 Bay Shore Route from Green Bay to Oconto, Sturgeon Bar, &c., 172 Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad and Steamship Line, 173 Milwaukee, Prairie du Chien, and St,^aul Railway Line, 174 Great Northwestern Route from Chicago to St. Paul, Green Bay and Lake Superior, 175 Galena and Chicago Union Railroad, ..? 176 Illinois Central Railroad Routes from Chicago to Cairo, &c., 177 New York Central Railroad— People's line of Steamers, Now York to Albany, 178 Great Western Railway of Canada, 179 Hotels, in Chicago, Mackiaac, Saut Ste. Marie, Detroit, &c., 180-187 Business Advertisements, 188-1 92 Page. 1. Frontispiece — Niagara Falls by Moonlight, 2. Buffalo IIardor, '♦G 3. l^RRY Monument — Cleveland, Ohio, 5G 4. Detroit Harbor, C3 5. Green Bay — "Wisconsin, *? G 6. Chicago Harbor, 84 7. Milwaukee Harbor, S^ 8. Island of Mackinac, 89 9. Arched Rock — Mackinac, 91 10. St. Mary's River — Outlet of Lake Superior, 9o 11. Saut Ste. Marie — From American Side, OG 12. Pictured Rocks — The Chapel, 113 13. Monument Rock — Lake Superior, 115 14. Pulling a Canoe up the Rapids — Kaministaquoiah River, 138 15. Brock's Monument — Queenston Heights, 145 ' 1 G. Horse-Shob Fall — Niagara, 1-^9 17. Fort Niagara — Mouth of Niagara River, 158 18. Cedar Rapids — St. Lawrence River I(i2 TABLE OF DISTANCES, From Boston, ^e^v York, Pliiladelpliia and Baltimore, to Niagara Fail§, Buffalo, Cleveland. &,c. Miles. 1. Boston to Albany, via Western Railroad of Massachiisetts, 200 Alban'Y to XiAGARA FALLS, Via Neio York Central Railroad,.. 306 — 506 Niagara Falls to Detroit, Mich., via G-reat Western Railway of Canada,. 230 — 736 2. New York to Albant, via Hudson River Railroad. 145 Albany to Bl'FFALO, via yew York Central Railroad, 298 — 443 3. New York to Buffalo, via Erie Railivay 432 Buffalo to Cleveland, Oliio, via. Lake Shore Railroad, 183 — 615 4. New York to Harrisburg, via X. J. Central Railivay 182 Harrisburg to Pittsburgh, via Pennsylvvnia Central Railroad, 249 — i'M PiTTSBURGU to Clevelan'D, via Pittsburgh and Cleveland Railway, 150 — 581 5. Philadelhhia to Pittsburgh, via Pennsylvania Central Railroad, 356 Pittsburgh to Cleveland, via Pittsburgh and Cleveland Railroad, 150 — 506 6. Philadelphia to Elihra, via Philadelphia and Elmira Railway, 275 ELiiiRA to Buffalo, via Erie Railway, 159 — i34 7. Baltimore to Harrisburg. via NortMrn Central Railxoay, 85 Harrisburg to Elmira, N. Y. " " " 171—256 Elmira to Buffalo, via Erie Railway, 159 — 415 8. Baltimore to Pittsburgh, via Pennsylrani-a Central Railroad, 334 Pittsburgh to Cleveland, Ohio, via Pittshurgh and Cleveland Railroad,. 150 — 484 Cleveland to Detroit, Mich., via Steamboat Route, ,120 — G04 Boston to New York, Railroad Route, 236 New York to Philadelphia, Railroad Route, 90 — 326 Philadelphia to Baltimore, " " 98 — 424 Baltimore to Washington, " *' 40 — lti4 RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE, FaoM New York to Niagara Falls axd Tohokto, C. W., Lkavixg New Yobk ▲T SLI p. M. BY SlEAiiEB. StaUons, etc. MUes. Usual Time. H. M. NEW YORK Albany, {Steayiier) 1-15 12 00 Schenectady, IJiailroad) 162 13 00 Utica, " 240 10 00 Rome, " 254 16 30 Syracuse, " 293 18 00 Rochester, {SL to Toronto) 374 22 45 Lcx-kiKirt, {Railroad) 430 25 00 SusPEssiox Bridge, *' 448 26 00 Lewistok, " ^'^'- TORONTO, (5tear7ier) 494 30 00 RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE, From New York to Oswe(K), Toronto, etc.. Lea vino New York at 7 4 10 A. M., AXD 5 p. M., BY HUDSOX RlVER liAlLKOAD. Stations, etc Maes. Usual Time. H. M.* NEW YORK Pou^rhkecpsie, {.Railroad) 75 2 40 Iludson. " 116 4 00 Ald.vnv, " 144 6 00 Schenectady, " 162 6 GO Utica, " 240 8 30 Rome, '• 254 9 00 Syracuse, " 293 10 30 Oswego. " 328 13 00 Lewistox. {Sf^amer 110 m.) 468 TORONTO, i^SUamtr 1 50 m.) 478 27 00 Note. — Passengers by continuing on by Railroad from Syracuse, via Rochester and Lockport, will arrive at Suspen.-ion Bridge, 448 miles, in sixteen hours after leaving New York, stop at Niagara Falls if desired, and roach Toronto by llailrcvl, lia Hamilton, C. W., 81 miles farther; making the total distance from New York to Toronto by Railroad, via Suspension Bri4^, 529 mile«». RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE From New York to Lake Superior. Stopping Places New York to Albany, by Eailroad. Albany to Buffalo, " Albany to Niagara Palls, " Buffalo to Cleveland, Ohio, " Cleveland to Detroit, by Steamboat, Detroit to Port Huron, " Port Huron to Saut Ste. Marie '' . Saut Ste. Marie to Marquette " . Marquette to Ontonagon, " . Ontonagon to Bayfield, " . Bayfield to Superior City, " . Total Running Time, 4 days and 14 Usual Fare from New York to Buffalo $ 9 35 " '* New York to Cleveland, 14 35 " •* New York to Detroit, Mich 16 35 Detroit to Lake Superior and Return 25 00 Total MUes. Usual Time. Hours. 145 5 298 443 10 304 183 626 1 120 746 10 73 819 6 277 1,096 24 160 1,256 14 226 1,482 20 78 1,560 7 80 1,640 7 hours. RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. The Eapids of the St. Lawrence, in con- nection with the " Thou6a7id Islands,^' form the most remarkable feature of this truly noble stream. The " Thousand Is- lands" are situated near the foot of Lake Ontario, where the St. Lawrence proper commences. Here are fo\ipd deliglitful resorts for those fond of fishing and hurt- ing, surrounded by scenery of the most enchanting character. The fall in the St. Lawrence river, between Ogdensburgh and Montreal, a dis- tance of 120 miles exceeds 200 feet. The rapids eucoun tered are the Gallop Rapids ; Rapid Plat ; Long Saut Rapids, (descent 48 feet.) The Coteau Rapids, Cedar Rapids, and Cascade Rapids, have a des- cent of 82 feet ; in the distance of 11 miles. The La Chine Rapids, the last formidable rapids which impede naviga- tion, has a descent of 45 feet. The descent of these rapids by steam- ers is perfectly safe, affording the most ex- citing and grand excursion imaginable, In ascending the stream steamers pass through the aS'^. Lawrence Canal ; total length about 40 miles. See Engraving, page 162. MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES, OR "INLAND SEAS.' rOTHING but a voyage over all of the great bodies of water forming the " Inland Seas," can furnish the tourist, or scientitic explorer, a just idea of the eitent, depth, and clear- nj^ss of the waters of the Great Lakes of America, together with the healthy influence, fertility, and romantic beauty of the numerous islands, and surrounding shores, forming a circuit of about 4,000 miles, with an area of 90,000 square miles, or about twice the eitent of the State of New York — ex- tending through eight degrees of latitude, and sixteen degrees of longitude — this region embracing the entire north half of the 'temperate zone, where the purity of the atmospliere vies with the purity of thc'^e extensive waters, or " Inland^eas," being connected by navigable rivers or straits. The States, washed by the Great Lakes, are New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Mich- igan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minne- i>i'ta, and Canada West — the boundary lino bi'tween the United States and the British Possessions running through the centre of Lakes Superior. Huron, St. Clair, Erie, and C)ntario, together with the connecting rivers or straits, and down the St. Lawrence River to the 45th paral- lel of latitude. From thence the St. Lawrence flows in a northeast direction through Canada into the Gulf of St. Law- rence. The romantic beauty of the rapids of this noble stream, and its majestic flow through a healthy and rich .section of country, is unsurpassed for grand lake and river scenery. Luke Superior, the largest of the Inland Seas, lying between 46"^ 30' and 49'^ north latitude, and between 84^ 30' and 92"" 30' west longitude from Green- wich, is situated at a height of 600 feet above the Gulf of St. Lawrence, from which it is distant about 1,500 miles by the course of its outlet and the St. Law- rence river. It is 460 miles long from east to west, and 170 miles broad in its widest part, with an average breadth of 85 miles; the entire circuit being about 1,200 miles. It is 800 feet in greatest depth, extending 200 feet below the level of the ocean. Estimated area, 31,500 square miles, being by far the largest body of fresh water on the face of the globe — celebrated alike for its sparkling purity, romantic scenery, and healthy in- fluence of itA surrounding climate. About one hundred rivers and creeks are said to flow into the lake, the greatest part being small streanfs, and but few navigable ex- cept for canoes, owing to numerous falls and rapids. It discliarges its waters east- ward, by the strait, or river St. Miry, 60 miles long, into Lake Huron, which lies 26 A'ct below, there being about 20 feet descent at the Saut Sto Marie, which is overcome by means of two locks and a ship canal. Its outlet, is a most lovely and romantic stream, embosoming a num- ber of large and fertile islands, covered with a rich foUage. 14 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. L.ake Michigan, lying 57 6 ft. above the sea, is 320 miles long, 85 miles broad, and 700 feet deep; area, 22,000 square miles. This lake lies wholly within the confines of the United States. It pre- sents a large expanse of water, with but few islands, except near its entrance into the Straits of Mackinac, through which it discharges its surplus waters. The strait is 30 or 40 miles in length, and discharges its accumulated waters into Lake Huron, on nearly a level with Lake Michigan. At the north end of the lake, and in the Straits, are several large and romantic islands, affording delightful resorts. Cireeil Bay, a most beautiful ex- panse of water, containing several small islands, lies at about the same elevation as Lake Michigan ; it is 100 miles long, 20 miles broad, and 60 feet deep ; area, 2,000 square miles. This is a remarkably pure body of water, presenting lovely shores, surrounded by a fruitful and healthy section of country. Liake Huron, lying at a height of 574 feet above the sea, is 250 miles long, 100 miles broad, and 750 feet greatest depth; area, 21,000 square miles. This lake is almost entirely free of islands, presenting a large expanse of pure water. Its most remarkable feature is Saginaw Bay, lying on its western border. The waters of this lake are now whitened by the sails of commerce, it being the great thoroughfare to and from Lakes Michigan and Superior. 2>tr Lakes doe.s not exceed from 600 to 2,500 feet above the level of the ocean, while the altitude of the land which forms the water-shed of Lake Champlain and the lower tribu- taries of the St. Lawrence Kiver risea from 4,000 to 5,000 above the level of the sea or tide-water, in the States of Ver- mont and New York. The divide which separates the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, from those flow- ing northeast into the St. Lawrence, do not in some places exceed ten or twenty feet above the level of Lakes Michigan and Superior ; in fact, it is said that Lake Michigan, when under the intluenco of high water and a strong northerly wind, discharges some (tf its surplus waters into the Illinois Kiver, and thence into the Mississippi and Gulf of Mexico^so low is the divide at its southern terminus. When we consider the magnitude of ' tliese Great Lakes, the largest body of ; fresh water on the globe, being connected by navigable Straits, or canals, we may i quote with emphasis the words of an j English writer: "How Uttle are they 1 aware, in Europe, of the extent of com- merce upon these ' Inland Sea.-*,' whoso I coasts are now lined with liourishing I towns and cities ; whose waters are plow- I ed with maguilicent steamers, and hund- reds of vessels crowded with merchandise! Even the Americans themselves are not I fully aware of the rising importance of these great lakes, as couuected with the Far West TEEBTJTARIES OF THE GREAT LAKES AND ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. Unlike the tribiitarios of the Mi.>*sissip- t The following are the principal Rivora pi, the streams falling into the Great Lakes j that are navigable for any coubiderablo or the St. Lawrence River are mostly , length : rapid, and navigable only for a abort dis- tance from their mouths. 16 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. AMERICAN SIDE. MileS. St. Louis River, Min Superior to Fond du Lac 20 Fox, or Neenah, Wis.. . . , Green Bay to Lake Winnebago* 36 St. Joseph, Mich St. Joseph to Niles 26 Grand River, " Grand Haven to Grand Rapids 40 Muskegon, " Muskegon to Newaygo 40 Saginaw " Saginaw Bay to Upper Saginaw 26 Maumee, Ohio Maumee Bay to Perrysburgli 18 Genesee, N. Y Charlotte to Rochester 6 CANADIAN SIDE. • MilcS. Thames ^ Lake St. Clair to Chatham 24 Ottawa La Chine to Carillon 40 " (By means of locks to Ottawa City)\. . . 70 Richelieu or Sorel Sorel to Lake Champlain {by locks) 75 Saguenay Tadusac to Chicoutimi 70 (thence to Lake St. John, .50 m.) LAKE AND RIVER NAVIGATION, TROM rOlH) DU LAC, LAKE SUPERIOR, TO THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. Lakeb, RIVER3, ETC. Length in Greatest Av Depth El. above ijAJxx,o, xwY«.»o, x-iv.. miles. breadth, breadth. in feet. sea. Superior 460 170 85" 800 600 ft. St. Mary's River 60 5 2 10 to 100 Michigan 320 85 58 700 576 " Green Bay 100 25 18 100 576 •' Strait of Mackinac 40 20 10 20 to 200 575 " Huron 250 100 70 700 574 " North Channel 150 20 10 20 to 200 574 " Georgian Bay 140 55 40 500 674 " St. Clair River 38 1^ •! 20 to 60 Lake St. Clair* 25 25 18 10 to 20 568 " Detroit River 27 3 1 10 to 60 Erie 250 70 40 200 5|4 " Niagara River 35 3 .1 Ontario 180 58 40 600 234 " St. Lawrence River 760 100 2 Lake St. Francis, foot Long Saut. . . 4 142 " Lake St. Louis, foot Cascade Rapids 5 58 " At Montreal 3 13 " Lake St. Peter 12 6 " Tide-water at Three Rivers 1 " At Quebec 1 " Total miles navigation 2, 835 • By means of 17 locks, overcoming an elevation of 170 feet. t The navifjation for steamers extends 150 miles above Ottawa City, by means of portages and locks. * The St. Clair Flats, w:hich have to be passed by all large steamers and sail vessels running from Lake Erie to the Upper Lakes, now adbrds twelve feet of water, the ship channel being very narrow and winding, where stands a light and buoys to guide the mariner. AI.TITri»KS — TOPOOUAIMIV AM) MKTEOKOLOOT. ALTITUDE OF VARIOUS POINTS ON THE SHORES SUPERIOR. LorAUTiKS. yM.ov.- I^iko Piiporior. Lake Supc'rior 000 feet. iVuiit Inniuois, South Shore 350 ** Gros Cap, C. W., North Shore 700 " Grand Sable, South Shore 345 '• Pictured Rooks, " ^ 200 " Iron Mountains, " 850 " Quincy Copper Mine, Portage Lake 550 " Mount Hcnighton, near Keweenaw Point 1,000 " Porcupine Mountains, Soutli Shore 1,380 '• Isle Royale, Miehigan 300 '* Minnesota Mountain.s (estimated) 1,200 *' Michipicotcn Island, C. W 800 " Pie Island, " 760 •' St. Ignacc (estimated) " 1,200 " McKay's Mountain, " 1,000 *' Thunder Cape, " 1,350 •* OF LAKE Above tho Sc«. 600 feet. 950 •' 1,300 •• 945 " 800 " 1,450 " 1,150 " 1,600 " 1,980 •• 900 '* 1,800 " 1,400 " 1,360 '♦ 1,800 " 1,600 " 1,950 " TOPOGRAPHY AND METEOROLOGY. "Tlio mountains of the region along the south shore of Lake Superi<^r, consist of two granite belts in the northwest, the ITtiron Mtncntaitis to the southward, a trap range starting from the head of Kewee- naw Point, and running west and south- west into Wisconsin, the Porcupine Jfoun- tiifui, and the detrital rocks. The Huron Mountains in places attain an elevation of 1,200 feet above tho Lake. The highest elevation attained by the Porcupine Moun- tains is 1,380 feet. *' Meteorological observations were in- stituted by order of the Government at tliree military posts in the District, viz. : Forts Wilkins (Copper Harbor), Brady, and Mackinac. From tliese observations it appears that the mean annual tempera- ture of Fort Brady is about one degree lower than that of Fort Wilkins, Although the latter post is nearly a degree further north. This difference arises from the insular position of Keweenaw Point, which is surrounded on three sides by wator. Tlio climate at Fort Brady, dur- 2 ing the whole season, corresponds in & remarkable degree with that of St. Peters- burg. The tcmj^erature of the region is very favorable to the growth of cereals. The annual ratio cif fair days at Fort Brady is 168; of cloudy days* 77; rainy- days, 71; snowy days, 47. " The temperature of the water of Lake Superior during the summer, a fathom or two below the surface, is but a few de- grees above the freezing point. In tho western portion, the water is much colder than in the eastern — the surface How be- coming warmer a.s it advances toward the outlet. The mirage whicli freq\iently oc- curs, is occasioned by the difference be- tween the temperature i>f tlie air and the Lake. Great difficulties are experienced from this cause in making astronomical observations, ''Auroras, even in midsummer, are of frequent occurrence, and exhibit a bril- liancy rarely observed in lower latitudes." — Foslrr f hike lish are worthy of notice. It ia believed that no fresh waters known can, in any respect, bear comparison. They are, with some exceptions, of the game kind in all the lakes. Those found in Lake Superior and the straits of St. Mary are of the best quality, owing to the cooler temperature of the water. Their quantities are surprising, and apparently BO inexhaustible, as to warrant the V^elief that were a population of millions to in- habit the lake shore, they would furnisli an ample supply of this article of food witlu>ut any sensible diminution. There are sevenU kinds found in Lake Superior, and some of the most delicious quality. points in each of the four 8trait.«», tho southea.m part of Lake Superior. Thunder Hay, Sriginaw 13ay. and Fort Gratiot near foot of Lake Huron. The P{)ort of taking the brook trout which are found in great abundance in the rapids at tho Saut Ste Marie, and most iill of the streams falling into the Upper Lakes, aflbrds healthful amusement to hundreds of amateur tish- ermen tluring the summer and fall months. The modes of taking the diflerent kinds of fish are in seines, dip-nets, and gill-nets, and the trout with hooks. " Those engage..V.O Sloops 16 667 12.770 Barges 8 8,719 17.fM»o Totals 1 ,«VJ,3 41 3,026 $ 13,257,020 The follow ing are the di.stances of some of the commercial routes, taking Chicago as the initial point: Chicago to Mackin.ic (graphical features of the Cf)untry. Thoy have already received the appellation of the " FooD-PROurciNG" I Stat<'S — an appellation which they are I destined to n-taiu for all time. I The rivers and the lakes, which water I this region. oflTer the most magnilieent sys- j tern of internal commutiieation to be found ; on the surface of the (>arth. No mount.iin barriers interpose to divide the people in- to hostile clans, or divert the great cur- rents of trade in their flow to the markets of the world. "With a soil sufliciently rieh ill organic matter for fifty successive crops; with almost boundless fields of coal, stored 22 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. away for future use ; with vast deposits of the useful ores, and the precious metals, on the rim of the great basin ; and with a cHmate most favorable to the develop- ment of human energy, it is impossible for the mind, even in its most daring spec- ulations, to assign limits to the growth of the North-west. When all of these ele- ments of wealth, now in a crude state, shaH have been fully developed, there will be an exhibition of human power and greatness such as no other people ever at- tained. Comparing the whole superficial con- I tents of these States with the portions cul- tivated, it will be seen that only about 16 1 per cent, of the surface has been sub- j dued ; and, if population and cultivation increase in the same ratio in the future as j they have in the past, before the lapse of another decade there will be collected an- nually, on the borders of the Great Lakes, more than 200,000,000 bushels of cereals for exportation, giving employment to a fleet of more than 3,000 vessels, and re- quiring avenues of more than twice the capacity of existing ones. A LUNAR TIDAL WAVE In the i¥orth American Lakes. Extract from a Paper read by Lt.-Col. GtRaham, before the American Association for the Advancement of Science, Augmt, 1860. "Much has been written, at various periods, on the fluctuations in the eleva- tion of the surface waters of the great freshwater lakes of North America. Val- uable and interesting memoirs have ap- peared from time to time in the American Journal of Science and Arts, pubhshed monthly at New Haven, Connecticut, within the last thirty years, on this sub- ject, written by the late Brevet Brigadier- General Henry Whiting, of the U. S. Ar- my, when a captain, by Major Lachlan, Charles Whittlesey, Esq., and others. The observations contained in their me- moirs have, however, been directed chiefly to investigations of the extent of the sec- ular and annual variations in elevation of the surfaces of these lakes. " The learned Jesuit fathers of the time of Marquette, a period near two centuries ago, and at later periods the Baron de la Hontan, Charlevois, Carver, and others, noticed in their writings the changes of elevation, and some peculiar fluctuations which take place on these inland seas. In the speculations indulged in by some of these writers a slight lunar tide is sometimes suspected, then again such an influence on the swelling and receding waters is doubted, and their disturbance is attributed to the varying courses and forces of the winds. "But we have nowhere seen that any* systematic course of observation was ever instituted and carried on by these early explorers, or by any of their successors who have mentioned the subject, giving the tidal readings at small enough inter- vals of time apart, and of long enough duration to develop the problem of a diur- nal lunar tidal wave on these lakes. The general idea has undoubtedly been that no such lunar influence was here percep- tible. " In April, 1854, I was stationed at Chicago by the orders of the Govern- ment, and charged with the direction of the harbor improvements on Lake Mich- igan. In the latter part of August of that year, I caused to be erected at the A I.UNAK TIDAL WAVE. 23 eaat or lakoward cxtromity of the North harbor pier, a permanent tido-gaugo fi>r the purpose of making daily observations of the relative heiglits and Huctnationa of the surface of tliis lake. The position thus chosen for the observations projects into the lake, entirely beyond the mouth of the Chicjigo River, and altogether out of the reach of any intiuence from the river current, upon the Muctuations of the tide-gauge. It was the tiuctuations of the lake surface alone, that could affect the readings of the tide gauge. "On the lirst day of St*ptember, 1854, a course of observations was cyramenoed on this tide-gauge, aud continued at least once a day, until the 31st day of Decem- ber, inclusive, 1858, During each of the first three winters a portion of the daily observations was lost, owing to the tide- gauge being frozen fast in its b<)x, but Uiey constituted only a small number in proportion tu that embraced in the series. During the subsequent winters artilicial means were resorted to, to prevent this freezing. "These observations were instituted chiefly for the purpose of ascertaining with accuracy the amount of the annual and also of the secular variation in the elevation of the lake surface, with a view to regulating the heights of break-waters and piers to be erected f^r the protection of vessels, and for improving the lake harbors." After a series of close observations from 1854 to 1858, Lieut-Colonel Graham ob- serves: — " The difference of elevation of the lake surface, between the periods of lunar low and lunar high-water at the mean spring tides is here shown to be two hundred aud fifty-four thousandths (.254) of a foot, and the time of high- water at the full and change of the moon is shown to be thirty (30) minutes after the time of the moa Salle was an era in tlie history of this portion of the world. The immense fur trade with tho natives at tho extremities of these lakes, which was carried on tirst by the French and afterward by the English, was thea almost entirely unknown. It was but tho year before the sites of the first trading- houses had been selected. I^ Salle set sail from the loot of L;ike Erie, on the 7th day of August, 1679, with a crew of thirty men, and arrived at M;»ckinac on the 28th day of that month. The first cargo of furs was put on board the Griffin, and she was ordered by L;i Salle to return with a crew of six men to Niagara. But a storm was encountered, and the vessel and Ciirgo, valued at fifty to sixty thousand francs, with all on board, was lost. Thus was made the first great sacrifice of life and property to the commerce of Lake Erie. " Since that period the changes that have been wrought in the country bordering up- on and lying beyond these lakes, surpass the dreams of enchantment. Enterpri.so and energy have penetrated those vast .solitudes; the beasts of prey liave slunk back into the deep fastnesses of the woods, the native trilx'S have vanished away like their own majestic forests, and the white man following fast upon their rustling footsteps, has subdued the wilderness to tho forms of civilization. ''The country from which the furs were gathered at the trading postg at Niagara, 26 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. Detroit, and Mackinac, including a large portion of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michi- gan, and "Wisconsin, now contains a pop- ulation of 6,926.874. Since the day when La Salle first opened, as it were, to future generations the great highway upon the waters of Lakes Erie and Huron, tlie pro- genitors of this mighty multitude have been borne upon its waves by favoring winds ; and innumerable little bands gain- ing the mouth of some fair river, have thence radiated over the wide-spread do- main from which their descendants are now pouring down upon the trusting bosom of the lake, the abundant products of an almost inexhaustible fertility. "Great as has been the change since the country was first explored, it has al- most wholly taken place since the year 1800. The population of Ohio in that year was only 45,365; and that was the only State, with the exception of New York and Pennsylvania, of all those bordering upon the great lakes, wliich contained any considerable settlements, or in which any enumeration of the people was taken. Even Ohio was not then admitted into tlie Union ; and the commercial advantage ot Lake Erie were scarcely begun to be developed tUl twenty-fiee years afterward. The first vessel bearing the American flag upon Lake Erie was the sloop Detroit, of seventy tons, which was purchased of the Northwest Fur Company, by the General Government, in 1796. She was, however, soon condemned as unseaworthy, and abandoned. Up to the time of the decla- ration of war in 1812, tlie whole number of vessels of all descriptions On these lakes, did not exceed twelve, and these were employed either in the fur trade, or in transporting to the West such goods and merchandise as were required for the scattered population that had found tlieir way there. A few vessels were built dur- ing the war, but, probably, aa many or more were destroyed. And during the three years of its continuance, aa all emi- gration to the "West, if any had before ex- isted, must have ceased, there cannot be said to have been any commerce on the lakes. "In March, 1791, Col. Thomas Proc^.or visited the Senecas of Buffalo Creek, and from him the first authentic notice of Buf- falo is given. He mentions a storehouse kept by an Indian trader named Winne, at Lake Erie. "In June, 1795, a French nobleman, named La Rochefoucauld Liancourt, visit- ed Buffalo and the neighboring Indian vil- lages. At this place there were then but few houses. He mentions an Inn where he was obliged to sleep on the floor in his clothes. "In August, 1795, Judge Porter, ac- companied by Judah Colt, went to Presque Isle, now Erie, through Buffalo. Judge Porter makes mention ' that one Johnson, the British Indian interpreter, Winne, the trader, and Middaugh, a Dutchman, with his family, lived at Buffalo.' The only road between Buffalo and Avon, in th^ year 1797, was an Indian trail, and the only house on this trail was one, about one and one-half miles east of the present village of Le Roy, occupied by a Mr. Wilder. As late as 1812 the roads were next to impassable, and to obtain supphes from Albany, trade was carried on by a 'circuitous route, 'through the Niagara river to Schlosser, thence by portage to Lewiston, thence by water to Oswego and up the Oswego River, through the Oneida Lake and Wood Creek, and across a short portage to the Mohawk River, thence by that river and around the portage of Little Falls to Schenectady — and thence over the arid pine plains to Albany.' The late Judge Townsend and George Coit, Esq., came to Buffalo as traders, in 1811 by this route, bringing about twenty tons of mer- cliandise from Albany at a cost of fifty dollars a ton. At tliis time there were less than one hundred dwellings here, and the population did not exceed five hun- EARLT HISTORY. 27 dred. Tho mouth of Buflr;Uo Creek was 1 the present time, when compared with tliea obstructed bj a a;in(i-bar, frequently [ what they were tifty years afj;o, 'are mar- preveating the entrance of small vessels, , vellous in our eyes,' and if some far-seeinfj mind, a half century since, had prophesied results of such vast ma;jnitude, lie would have been denominated an idle dreamer, and a fit subject tor a lunatic asylum. ''The States and Territories bordering on, and tributary to the great lake basin that had fifty years ago but a few thousand and even frail Indian bark canoes were frequently shut out. and footmen walked across its mouth on drv larul.il Vessels .1?; then received and discharged their carg^s at Bird Island wliarf, near Black Rock. To remedy the obstructions in tlio creek by the sand-bar at its outlet into the lake, it was pro[)Osed. in the year 1811, to run population, have now nearly seven milHons, a pier into the lake, but uotliini: of moment < which will soon be augmented by the Wi4.s done till the spring of 1820. when a j natural increase and by immigration to Bubscription was raised, by the then vil- , thirty millions, and Buffalo with its 500 lagers of Buffalo, amounting to $1,361. j inhabitants in 1811, 81.000 in 1860, will The late Hon. Samuel Wilksou was the ' have a population of three or four hun- orig'uator and projector of this movement, dred thousand before the present century and temporary improvements were made shall have passed away. Within the lim- wliich carried away the obstructing sand- its of these lake States, where, less than bar. In 1822 tho village in its corporate forty years ago, there were neither canals nor railways, there are now 14.484 miles of railway, and 3.345 miles of navigai)le canals, of which latter about 760 miles are slack-water navigation. "The whole West and Northwest is now traversed by a net- work of railways, with important canal connections between the different States, where there was a sparsely populated, almost interminable forest or uninhabited prairie. In this march of improvement, making more in- timate the social and commercial relations of these widely separated sections of the country, the Empire State has nobly led the way. The fiir-seeing mind of her honored son, Governor Clinton, projected tho Erie Canal which wa,s completed in 1S25, uniting the waters of tlie Hudson with the lakes. A brighter day then dawned u|X)n the West, the popidation was rapidly augmented, which was soon succeeded by larirely increased agricultu- moQts, the manufactures and commerce, j ral productions that gave new life to com- tho caual, railway, and water connections j merce. The era of railways was com* by lake with other portions of the country, I menced in about the year 1830. the population and productions of the " With these largely increased rail fa- West and Northwest, the large lake, canal, I cilitie.s, and the capacity of the New York and railway facilities for transportation at I canals nearly quadrupled, the augmenting capacity paid Jolm T. Lacy for building a mud-scow for working in the harbor $534. The first corporate notice of the harbor was made In tho latter year. Buffalo was incorporated as a village in April, 1813, and as a city on 20th of April, 1832, ''Melish says, 'the population by the last census was 365, and it was computed in 1811 at 500, and is rapidly increasing.' In 1825 the population was 2,412; in 1830, 8,668; in 1835, 15,661; in 1840. 18,213; in 1845, 29,973; in 1850. 42.261; in 1860, 81,129; and at the end of the year 1862 the population is estimated at over 100,000. In 1817 the taxable prop- erty of the village was $134,400, and on Uiis valuation an assessment of $400 was made during that year. The valuation of the real and persomd propertv of the city in 1862 is $30,911,014. ''The population and valuation of prop- erty, the harbor and harbor im[irove 28 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. facilities do not keep pace with the rapid- ly augmenting population and largely in- creased production. Improved channels of communication, both by rail and water, must be made, to enable the producer at the "West to get his products more cheap- ly to market. A country vast in extent, bordering upon the upper Mississippi, the Ohio, Cumberland, Tennessee, Arkansas, Red, and Missouri rivers and their tribu- taries, and the Red river of the North, traversed by more than twenty thousand miles of navigable waters, will soon be densely peopled; new States to the west of those already admitted will soon knock for admission into the Union; the supera- bundant products of an almost inexhaust- ible fertility will be pouring over the lakes and railways, and through the rivers and canals, imparting activity to trade, giving life, strength and vital energy to the large- ly augmenting commerce of the West. As the star of empire westward wends its way, widening the distance fiom the great sea-board marts of trade, the prospective wants and increased productions of scores of millions of people will from necessity create cheaper and more expeditious facil- ities for the transportation of their surplus products to market. There is no country on the face of the globe that has so many natural advantages for a large and extend- ed internal trade as the great West and Northwest, " The great basin east of the Rocky I Moimtains is drained by the Mississippi ' and Missouri Rivers and their tributaries, ! and their waters find an outlet in the Gulf of Mexico. The great lakes, having an area equal to one twenty-fifth part of the Atlantic Ocean, are drained by the river St. Lawrence, and find an outlet in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The construc- tion of a few miles of canal makes a nav- igable connection from the ocean to the great chain of lakes. These natural ad- vantages have been improved to some ex- tent in the United States by the construc- tion of a canal through the State of New York, that now has a prism forty-five feet at the bottom and seventy feet at the top, with seven feet of water, with locks 18 feet 6 inches wide by 100 feet long. There is also a canal one hundred miles long connecting the Illinois river with lake Michigan at Chicago, and slack water navigation connecting Green Bay, Wiscon- sin, with the Mississippi river. By the construction of a ship canal about three- fourths of a mile in length, from Big Stone Lake to Lake Traver in Minnesota, steamboats from St. Paul could navigate both the Minnesota river and the Red river of the North to Lake *^'innepeg, a distance of seven hundred miles. The country traversed by these rivers is sur- passingly fertile and capable of sustaining a dense population. Lake Winnepeg is larger than Lake Ontario, and receives the Sas-katch-e-wan river from the West. The Sas-katch-e-wan river is navigable to a point (Edmonton House) near the Rocky Mountains, seven hundred miles west of Lake Winnepeg, and only 150 miles east of the celebrated gold diggings on Frazer river in British Columbia. The digging of that one mile of canal, would, there- fore, enable a steamboat at New Orleans to pass into Lake Winnepeg and from thence to Edmonton House, some 5,000 miles. A move has already been made for constructing tliis short canal. By en- larging the Illinois and Micliigan canal and improving the navigation of the Illi- nois river, and improving and completing the slack water navigation of the Fox river in Wisconsin, connecting Green Bay with the Mississippi river, and still fur- ther enlarging the main trunk of the New York canals, steamers could be passed from New York or the G\ilf of St. Law- rence, either through the canals of New York or Canada into the great lakes, and from thence to the head waters of tho Sas-katch-e-wan, the Missouri, the Yellow Stone rivers, being some 5,000 to 6,000 FIRST STEAMBOAT ON LAKE EKIK. 29 miles. The corcal yiroduct of the Statos lx>rdi'ring on and tributary to the lakes was 2»J7. 205.877 bushels 'in 1840; 434,- 802, G»n J)usliels in 1850, agaiu.st (;79.0:{1,- 659 bushels in 18G0, and the population of these States has kept pace with their ceroal products, being G,259.345 in 1840; 9,178,003 in 1850, apiinst 13.355.093 in 18G0, au increase of nearly lifty per cent. in population and cereal products in each decade. If the same rate jjer cent, of in- crease in population and cereal products shall be continued, the.se States in 1870 will have a population of 20.032.639. with a cereal product of 1,008.557.338 bushels; in 1880, a population of 30.0 48,958, with a cereal product of 1,512,821,000 bushels; in 1890. a population of 55,073,437, with a cereal product of 2,209,231,510 bushels, and in 1900 a population of 67,010,155, with a cereal product of 3.403,847,265. "The grain trade of Buffalo for a series of year.s. given in this report, lias already rea'ched upwards of 72,OuO,000 bushels fo'r the year 1802. If a crop of 680,000.000 of bushels of cereal products, gives Buf- falo 72.000,000 of bushels of that crop; in the year 1900, with a crop of 3,403,- 847,205 bushels of cereal products, the grain trade of Buffalo will bo upward of 360,000,000 of bush.-ls. The calculations of the forty years of the future are based on the actual results of the last thirty years. The year 1870 will give to Buffalo a grain trade of upwards of 107,000,000 of bushels, and if tliere shall be a propor- tionate increase in the grain trade of Oswigo, the present capacity of tlie New York canals will bo entirely inadequate to pass through them this largo amount of grain in addition to the lar;^.* increase in tlie tonnage of other commodities, Si\y- iw^ nothing of the capacity that will be n-^uired fur the augmented business in 1880. 1890, and 1900." Tiic First Steamboat on L.ukc Krie. The Detroit Tribune furnishes some in- teresting extracts on this subject, taken from tlie tiU-s of the Detroit (Jozette, r.f 1818. We select the following descrip- tion of the reception of thi.s monster of the great deep by the '' Wolverineji" of that day. "ArouST 26, 1818: — Yesterday, be- tween the hours of 10 and 11 .\. m., the elejrant steaml)oat Walk-in-thc- Wat^, Capt. .T. Fish, arrived. — As she passed the pub- lic wharf, and that owned by Mr. J. S. Rob}', she was cheered by hundreds of the inhabitants, who had collected to wit- ness this (in these waters) truly novel and grand spectacle. She came to at Wing's wharf. She left Buffalo at half-past 1 o'clock on the 23d, and arrived off Dun- kirk at 35 minutes past on the same day. On the next morning she arrived at Erie, Capt. Fish having reduced her steam during the night, in order not to pass that place, where she took in a sup- ply of wood. At half-past 7 p. m. she left Erie, andcanxeti) at Clerel'ind at 1 1 o'elo<'k. On Friday, at 20 minutes pa.st 6 o'clock, p. M., sailed and arrived off Sandusky Bay at 1 o'clock on Wednesday ; lay at anchor during the night, and then pro- ceeded to Venice to wood; left Venice at 3 p. M., and arrived at the mouth of the Detroit River, where she anchored during the night— the whole time employed in sailing, in this first voyage from Butfalo to this, being about 44 hours and 10 min- utes; the wind ahead during nearly the whole passage. Not the slightest accident happened during the voyage, and all our machinery worked admiraljly. "Nothing eould exceed the surprise of the sons of the forest on seeing the W'aik- in-ihe- Wat^-r moving majestic;illy and rap- idly against a strong current, without the assistance of sails or oars. They liu.d «he banks near Maiden, and expro-scJ 30 COMMERCB OF THE LAKES. their astonishment by repeated shouts of * Tai-yoh nkhee.' A report had been cir- culated among them, that a ^big canoe' would soon come from the noisy waters, which, by order of the great father of the Cho-yno-ko-mons, would be drawn through the lakes and rivers by sturgeon! Of the ; truth of the report they are now per- | fectly satisfied. The cabins of this boat j are fitted up in a neat, convenient, and elegant style ; and the manner in which she is found, does honor to the proprie- tors and to her commander. A pa.ssage between this place and Buffalo is now not merely tolerable, but truly pleasant. To- day she will make a trip to Lake St. Clair, with a large party of ladies and gentle- men. She will leave for Buffalo to-mor- row, and may be expected to visit us again next week." LAKE COMMERCE. Commcree of Buffalo.— 1 §62. The Collector of Customs for Buffalo has furnished the following statement, showing the arrivals and clearances of American and Foreign vessels to and from Canadian ports; also, the arrivals and clearances of American vessels to and from American ports ; the tonnage of same ; and the number of men employed : American vessels : No. Tonna«:e. Crew. Entered, 1st quarter. . . ,. 320 3S4.000 4.160 " 2d " ... .. 366 294.241 3,344 8d " ... . . 303 21 2. 805 2,587 " 4th " ... .. 8^2 302,929 3,295 Foreign vessels: Euti-red, 1st quarter. . . . - 2d - ... .. 219 20,836 1,049 3d " ... .. 321 28,632 1.560 4th " ... .. 145 13,705 719 A.merican vessels : Cleared, 1st quarter . . . . . 823 384,185 4,168 " 2d " ... .. 399 294,755 3,461 " 3d . . 325 2 1 3. 305 2.GS5 " 4th " .. 334 294,526 3,197 Foreign vessels: Cleared, 1st quarter . . . . . . " 2d " .... 205 19,572 987 "3d " ... . . 309 2S.345 1,536 " 4th " .. 133 13,273 687 Coastipg vessels: Entered, Ist quarter. . . " 2d " ... .. 1,802 601,673 19,364 " 3d .. 2,712 920,979 29,276 " 4th " ., 1,611 576,354 17,792 Cleared, 1st " 4 2,123 76 " 2d .. 1.939 667,183 21,062 " 3d .. 2.733 907.3S7 28,S2.T " 4th " .. 1,480 518,318 16,250 SUMMARY FOR THE TEAJl. No. Tonaage. Crew. American vessels entered . Foreign vessels entered. . . Coasting vessels entered. . 1,331 685 6.185 1,193.975 63.173 2,099,006 13.38« 3,323 66,432 Total entered for the year. 8,201 3,356.154 83,146 American vessels cleared. 1,381 1,186,831 13,511 Foreign vessels cleared... 652 61.195 3.210 Coasting vessels cleared.. 6,156 2,085,011 66.233 82,954 Total cleared for the year. 8.189 3,333,( Grand Total, 1862 16.390 6,689,191 166,133 1861 13.866 5.963,896 144.173 ls60 11.527 4.710,175 12(>,49T 1859 10,521 5.592.626 118.109 " 1853 8,318 3.329,246 S6.S51 " 1857 7.581 3.221.806 132,183 " 1856 8,128 3.(tlS,5s9 112.051 1855 9.211 3.360.23;? 111.515 " 1^54 8.912 3.990.284 120.838 "" lb53 8,298 3.252.978 128.112 " 1852 9,441 3,092,247 127,491 United States and Canadian Ton- nage. The following statements from the re- port of the Secretary of the Board of Lake Underwriters for 1862, will show the ton- nage, value, and class of vessels navigat- 28 82^ I ^"S the Northwestern Lakes in 1861 and " " 1862, viz. : FLoUU AND GRAIN. 31 CompanitiTe »t»trment of the tonnage of ih? N'orlhwe*tern Lak^•^ an00 ll.<>0 Cla«» of TCMels. Steamers . . ProiK'llers Barks Brijja Sch,800 3..'.7:<.:{i)0 .V.'«s2i»0 1A770 17,<»tH) Totals 1.613 413,t/26 |ia,257,ir20 r of vessels ToUls 1,502 3'53,3o9 $11.!562,450 Increase in nuinln Incri-Hso in tons. Increase in value 141 29.717 1,394,070 TABLE, KxHiBiTiNr, THE TosNAOF of th« settral Lake Di9trict4 in the Vnited Stdtea, on the 30th J'un*, 1861. Jjikes, Ac Cham plain. ... Ontario Erie DrsTRirre. St.ite, Burlincrtoa Vermont Champlain New York O.'^wegatchie " Cape Vincent " Sicketi'a Har.)or. ... " Oswego " Gene.see " Niagara •* Buffalo " Dunkirk " Presque Isle ( Erie) . . Pennsylvania Cuyahoga (iJleveland) Ohio Sandusky *' Toledo " Detroit Michigan ilichilimackinac .... " Chicago Illinois Milwaukee \\ isconsin Minnesota Superior St. Lawrence River. . Detroit River Huron Michigan. . . . Total T'-nna?o. $7,774 19 1,791 71 7.3:;2 r.3 6,228 70 888 55 55,552 41 2,981 84 774 48 108,224 GO 4,274 2« 7,369 09 82.518 87 15.850 24 6.4<;8 70 66.887 89 4.747 59 85,743 66 27.048 19 Tot.ll Tonnage $500,450 90 FLOUR AND GRAIN. FLOUR AND GRAIN TRADE OF DIFFERENT CITIES COMPARED. The importance of Buffalo as a grain i grain trade of Lake cities with several of receiving port, will be shown by the f<»l- 1 the grain porta of Euroi>e: lowing comparative statements of the | 32 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. Flour, bbls BUFFALO. 1860. 1861. 1S62. 1.122.*35 2,159,591 2,846,022 Wheat bush. Corn, bush.. . Oats, bush.. . Barley, bush. Kye, bush . . . lS,.502.t>49 27,105.219 30,43.5.831 11,386.217 21,024.657 24.2S8.627 1,209,594 1,797,905 2.624,932 262,158 313,757 423.124 80,822 337,764 791,5&4 Total grain 41,441,440 50,597,302 58,564,07 CHICAGO. 1860. 1861. 1862. 713,348 1,479,284 1,755,258 14,427,083 17,385.002 13,137,-533 1.5.202.894 26.369,989 31,145,721 2,198.889 2,067,018 3,782,422 617,619 457,589 800,476 318,976 490,969 976.752 Total grain 32,824,961 46,770,587 49,842,904 Flour, bbls... Wheat, bush Corn, bush . Oats, bush.. . Barley, bush, Eye, bush . . , Flonr, bbls MILWAUKEE. 1860. 1861. 305,203 492,259 1862. 503,957 Wheat, bush. .. Corn, bush . . . , Oats, bush Barley, bush . . . liye, bush Total grain 9,108,458 15,930,706 14,253,85:3 126,404 114,931 265,128 178,963 131,2.56 289,380 109,795 66.991 141.359 52,382 73.448 159.512 10,576,002 16,317,332 15,109,232 OSWEGO. 1860. 1861. 1862. Flour, bbls 121,399 119,056 235,382 Wheat, bush 9,651,564 10,121,446 10.982,132 Corn, bush 5,019,400 4,fr42.262 4,528,962 Oats, bush 388,416 116,384 187,284 Barley, bush 1,326.915 1,173,551 1,050.364 Kye, bush 244,311 381,687 130,175 Total grain 16,630,606 16,435,330 16,878,917 Flour, bbls . Wheat, bush Corn, bush . Oats, bush . . Barley, bush Bye, bush . . Total grain DETROIT. 1860. 1861. 862,175 1.321,140 2,923,M4 4,007,818 4,233,357 Flour, bbls Wheat, bush . . . Corn, bush Oats, bush Barley, bush . . Rye, bush Total grain DUNKIRK. 1860. 542.765 1861. 736,.529 1,095.364 500,888 6il4,.561 112,061 644,081 230.4(H) •149,6.54 3,9.50 8,843 .... 10,173 3,225 1,153,812 842,136 271,888 OGDEXSBURGH. 1860. 1861. 1862. Flour, bbls 248,200 411,888 576,394 Wheat, bush .... 565.022 677.386 689,930 Corn, bush 867.014 1,119,594 1,120,176 Oats, bush 28.242 2.365 3,336 Barley, bush.... 7,105 15,1.51 15,529 Eye, bush 3,050 3,888 Total grain 1,470,433 1,818,384 1,828,974 TOLEDO. 1860. 1861. 1862. Flour, bbls 807,768 1,406,676 1,585,-325 Wheat, bush.... 5.:341.190 6,277,407 9,827,629 Corn, bush 5,386,951 5,312,038 3,813,709 Oats, bush 129,689 41,428 2:34,7.59 Barley, bush.... 115.992 12,064 63,038 Eye, bush 37,7b7 31,193 44,:36S Total grain ..... 11,011,609 11,674,130 13,983,593 CAPE VINCENT. 1860. 1861. 1S62. Flour, bbls 28,940 65,407 48,576 Wheat, bush.... 20-3,873 276,610 816,403 Corn, bush 7:3,300 124.411 249,869 Oats, bush 27,299 2,994 1,0.30 Barlev, bush ... 90,614 53,877 81,265 Eye, bush 20,616 23,365 762 Total grain . .. 415,707 481,257 598,829 Summary of Receipts, 1862. Flour, bbls. Grain, bush. Buffalo 2,846,022 58..56-1.078 Chicasjo 1,755,253 49.842,904 Mi 1 wau kec 503,957 15,1 09,2:32 ( )swef,'o 285,382 1 6,878.91 7 Detroit I,54;3,b76 4,2:3:3,;357 Dunkirk 1,095,3('4 27],S8S Opdensburgh 576,:394 1,828,974 Toledo I,.5ii6,:325 13,988,593 Cape Vincent 48,576 BRKAD8TUFF8 — FISHERIEr^ — b 33 The prain trade of the preat West and ; dor cuUivrttion tlie l)rou.000 1S47 S.800.000 ls.313.000 1S48... . 8.091,000 21,425.000 1849 14,183.602 33.93.5,768 1S50 18.6.52.890 53.076.000 18.51 10.696.006 68,0<»6.000 1852 12,998.614 72,337,225 1853 9,215.240 89.294.000 ia54 15.464..554 67,407.003 1865 16.421.568 72,026.651 1856... . 18.556,039 60.584.812 1857 ■ 2:3,024.213 6S.2^3.319 1858 15.119.019 67.0.59.173 1859 23.277.023 111.072.446 1860 22,307.839 111.094,496 1861...^ 25,228,973 58.082.713 1862 30,410,252 125,289,971 COPPER-LAKE SUPERIOR. The Copper Mines of Lake Superior were first brought into public notice in 1845, when speculation was rife in all that spur of the Porcupine Mountains on the south shore of Superior, extending far into the lake, having for its base a hue drawn across L'Anse Bay to Ontonagon. This was then the Northern El Dorado. In this year operations were commenced at the Minnesota mine, which is about fifteen miles back of Ontonagon. The first large mass of native copper, weighing about seven tons, was found in a pit dug by the original lords of the soil. It is now only fourteen years since this mine was opened. At that time the rapids in the Sault St. Marie prevented the pas- sage of vessels from the lower lakes, and the adventurers that sought out this new El Dorado, had many obstacles to over- come. The country was then covered by a vast wilderness, without inhabitants, ex- cepting a few Indians. All supplies were brought from the lower lakes, and then had to be passed over the Portage at St. Mary, and thence carried in frail vessels coasting to tho westward, hundreds of miles to the co];- per regions, and then carried on the back COPPEIl LAKE SUPERIOR. 35 of man aud beast to the supposed pKoces of the copper deposit. Every stroke of the pick was made at a cost ten-fold more than in populated districts, every disaster delayed operations for weeks aud even months. The opening of the St. Mary canal, in 18')6, has produced a wondrous change in all this wilderness region. The only set- tlements on the south shore of the lake, at the present time, are Marquette, Port- age Lake, Ontonagon, Copper Harbor, Eairle Harbor, Ea;:le River, and the ad- jacent mines — all else is a vast wilderness, without si^'U of human habitation. The Copper region is divided into the tliree districts of Ontonagon, Keweenaw Point, and Portage Lake. Since 1845, 120 Copj)er Mining Companies have beeu organ- ized under the General La\^of Michigan; more than six millions of dollars Jiave been expended in explorations and mining improvements. The Minnesota and Cliff mines have declared and paid over two millions of dollars in dividends since the \ organization and working of these com- panies. Until 1860 all the Copper of the Lake Superior mines was smelted at Detroit, Cleveland, and Boston. Since which time a Boston company have erected smelting works at Portage, Lake Superior, while sf^ino Copper Ore has been shipped to Liverpool to be smelted there. There is an annual product of Copper of about 2,500 to 5.000 tons at the Wel- lington mines, I^ake Huron, whiclf are worked by a Canadian company. Business o.v Lake Superior in 1862. The annual report of the Superintend- ent of the Sault St. Mary Canal, to the I Governor of Michigaix, says tliat during I t!ie litst year there passed through the Khip canal $12,000,000 wortli of copper ' aud iron, and general merciiandise to the | ViUuo of $10,000,000. The numl-r .! i vessels, sail and steam, that passed tlirougli the canal was 838, and the aggregate ton- nage was 349,612 tons. In 18G1 the number of vessels was 527, and the ton- nage 276,637 tons. The tolls collected on the canal are six cents per ton, making an income of $21,676 72. The trade last year may be divided as follows: Iron, pig and ore. 150,000 tons; cop|)er, 9,300 tons; general mercliandise, 8,000 tons. The following, showing the .shipments aud value of (.'opper shipped from Lake Superior from 1845 to 18G2, inclusive, will indicate the growth and importance of the Copper mining interest of Lake Superior: AGGREGATE SHIPMENTS OF COPPER FROSf LAKE SUPERIOR FROM 1845 TO 1862. Ton*. U>*. Value, Shipments In 1 '^J.'i .1:300 #.'i»0 1S46..... 29. - 2.(il9 l'!47 2ii'X lOL^V) IMS &ia 2«M),4t) " KA 2.:<<»^). N ».">.( MX) " ls55..... 3,i;>& 1.4;$7.iHK) " ]s.V>..... 5.726. 2. 41 Ml. I'M) l-s-^T 5.7o9. 2.ol.\tv-rf) " IS-ys..... S.VJd. l.t".lit,.H)0 •* 1&.V.» 6,041. l.li:}2.iH)0 " K60..... 8,614. 2..V_'«i.<»O0 isfil 10.;«7. 8.1>»o.(»00 " lSt32 •10,000. 4,004.t) 4.70S.6 4..'— .'♦ ()ijt..n:ii:<»n 2,59T.t) i{,61ako Superior iron is concfdod, by all wlio havo given it a trial, to be superior to any iron in the world, an is shown by the following analysis by Prof. Johnson, giving the strength per square inch in pounds: 8allsbnr>-. Conn., iron .VH,00() }iwe.»i.*h(».i St) .\S.i:U Enjflish CttM.- .'>!*.105 <.'entiv t'..nnty. Pa VJ.4i»,i»«Vi Lancastor < ' iintv. IVnn 7t>.o<>'J Common Lngliah and American So.lHH) Lake Superior Sy,i>?'i Large quantities of iron ore are taken from Marquette, Mich., to Detroit, Cleve- land, Erie, and Huron, while several thousand tons havt; annually been brought to UutTalo for smelting, or to i)as.s throujrh the Erie, Soneca, and Chemung Canals to amalgamate with the iron ores of Penn- sylvani-i, for the manufacture of i)ig-iron. Two extensive establishments have been already erected in Buffalo, which can smelt annually from lifteen to twenty thousand tons of ore into pi-^ iron. There will soon be another smelting furnace erected here, which will, probably, be in operarion before the end of the present year. In addition to these, a large roUing mill for roUing railroad and bar iron has just been completed, and is now in full operation. There is in the Lake Superior iron dis- trict enough iron ore to supply the world with iron. A new era in ship and boat building is near at hand. Iron vessels will take the place of wood, when a large amount of iron plates and beams will be rey>i 1^U|' 8.7iS 1M» «.Ty5 IM-.1 3..'>GS 1m;i 1,.'.GS 1S6-2 10,0*4 l!*6i 8.4W SALT. In the year 18»;o, there were manufac- tured in the eight following named States 12.190,953 bushels of salt, of which there were produced 30,900 in Massachusett.%, 7,521,335 bushels in New York ; 604,300 bushels in Pennsylvania, 1,744,240 bush- els in Ohio, 2,05G,513 bushels in Virginia, 69.605 buslu-ls in Kentucky, 120.000 bushels in Texa.s, and 44,000 bushels in California, valued at $2,265,302. The discovery of salines in Michigan, at Saginaw and vicinity, in 1839, will .soon add largely to the salt product. The East Sairinaw Salt Company, with a capi- tal of lifiy thousand dollars, was or^'ani- zed in April, 1859, and oj>erations were commenced about the tirst of May in that year, when they commenced sinking a well, which well was completed to the depth of 670 feet about the hrst of Feb- ruary, 1860. Immediately al'tor th<' com- pk'tion of this well, small quantities of salt were produced in a temporary ar- rangement, with three or four ordinary kettles, but the manufacture of salt as a business, was not in full of>eration till July, 1860, when a block of lilXy kettles was completed. This company has six blocks of kettles in operation, besides 500 38 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. solar vats. There are now in operation 5*3 blocks of kettles, in addition to which forty-seven lirms and companies have been organized, and many of them have wells completed, or nearly completed, and will soon have many additional works. The works already in operation are capable of producing 870,525 bbls. an- nually ; and before the first of September next, the works being constructed ^^all augment the capacity to one and a quarter milhons of barrels annually. The manufacture of salt from the salines of the Onondaga Salt Springs was commenced as early as the year 1797, which is the date of the first leases of lots, and during that year 25,474 bushels of salt were manufactured. Passing over a period of ten years, to 1807, in which year there were manufactured 165,448 bushels; in 1817, 448,665 bushels; in 1827, 983.410 bushels ; in 1837, 2,161,287 bushels; in 1847, 3,951,351 bushels; in 1851,4,614,117 bushels; in 1861, 7,300,000 bushels; in 1862, 9,016,- 013 bushels. These salines have supplied the Eastern, Middle, Western and North- western States for many years, and in a little more than half a century the pro- duct has been augmented from 25,474 bushels in 1797, to 9,016,013 bushels in 1862,' making the total product since 1797 upwards of 145,000,000 of bushels. The United States government duties on foreign salt, and the adoption of a higher rate of toll than on domestic salt, have protected the manufacture to such an ex- tent, that foreign salt (until 1862. when the rate of toll on it was reduced) was almost entirely excluded from finding a consump- tive demand. The salt manufacture in New York has given employment to a large number of our people, and has largely augmented both the tonnage and revenue of the New York canals. The outlets for our domestic salt, going to Western States and Canada, is by the way of Buffalo and Oswego, which latter place has always re- ceived, since the completion of the Oswego canal, much the larger share for the an- nual supply of the West. The following will show the imports of salt by canal at Buffalo and Oswego for the years indicated : IMPORTS OF DOMESTIC SALT. Buffalo, Oswego, Years. Ib3. lbs. 1S49 39.952,000 113,184.000 1850 25.612,000 69.090.000 1851 30.084,000 113.742.000 1852 44,316,000 102,164,000 1853 59,327.474 1S54 67.587,072 16S.41 0.000 1855 109.325,311 14-,1 10.000 1856 60,913.373 193,664,000 1857 52,228,989 142.907.755 1858 77,001.105 243,709.816 1859 112,621.028 190,262;431 1860 92,949.269 159,527,670 1861 159.191.278 173.193,476 1862 177,620,435 228,698,389 What effect upon the salt manufacture and the canal commerce of this State, the discovery and working pf the salines of the Saginaw Valley in Michigan will have, remains to be seen. The favorable ac- counts of the strength of these newly discovered salines, and the progress already made in the manufacture of salt, induce the belief that Michigan wiU soon be a strong competitor with New York in the markets of the West for this almost universally used commodity. PETROLEUM. During the last two years Petroleum has assumed an importance in the economy and material interests of the country that is as yet but partially developed. The late- ly discovered use of this crude commodity, that is found deposited in large reservoirs from five to seven hundred feet beneath the surface of the earth, which, when tapped, flows upward to the surface in almost inexhaustible supply, is producing a revolution in the economies of the pec- PETKOLEUM. 39 pie's light. In Canada West, in the vicinity of Sarnia, and on Oil Creok in Pennsylvania, these supply reservoirs have already been largely developed, and new discoveries will, probably, show a large extent of territory where this crude commodity can be obtained. In the Pennsylvania oil regions there are seventy-live Mowing wells, sixty-two wells that formerly flowed and were pumped, besides three hundred and tifiy- eight wells sunk and commenced, costing, on an average, on? thousand dollars each, equal to $495,000. In the vicinity of these wells are twenty-five refineries for refiuing the crude Petroleum, which, with the ni^vchinery and buildings, have been erected at a cost of about $500,000. The daily product of the Pennsylvania wells is about 4,400 barrels. Some of the Mowing wells of this oil district have produced as high as from two to seven hundred barrels of crude oil daily. There are in Canada "West thirty-seven firms engaged in refining the crude Petro- leum produced near Sarnia, with a week- ly product of about 2,200 bbls. of refined oil from seventy-three stills, which will give an annual product of refined oil, if run to their full capacity, of 32,120,000 gallons. The annual product of the Pennsylvania oil regions, at about 4,400 barrels daily, will be about 53,400,000 gallons. FuKEiGN Export of Petrolecm in 1862. From Gallons.- Value. Niw Vork 6.7sl.:.t« $2,037,413 l'hila.lclphia •A6o7.:ii:i 627,57.% H.,^-,,11 ';'.»1.G15 4.J7.S.VJ <-.in;i(la 1.279.itO0 25.%S>(ii> ToUls 11.501,331 $3,2*0,W7 The exports from the port of New York in 18GI, were only 1,112,250 gallons. There were carried Eastward from the Poun.sylvania oil regions in 1862, over the Pennsylvania Central railroad, from Pittsburg, destined for Philadelphia and Baltimore, 71^,658 tons, being equal t^ about 442,000 bbls. of oil In every considerable town in the Mid- dle and Western States, there are oil re- fineries for manufacturing the crude Pe» iroleum. This discovery ha3 left Coal Oil, Cam- phene, Lard and Whale Oils at a discount. A cheap light of great briUiancy has been obtained for the million, and its discovery and introduction into general use will, in a very considerable measure, affect prices of other commodities previously used for illuminating purposes, and will give ft respite to the Whale, and bids lair to rival even coal gds in cheftpuess and illu- minating power. The refining of crude Petroleum haa already obtained a very considerable miig- nitudo in Buttalo. Some eleven refineries have been erected in this city within the last two years, in which $125,000 to $130,000 in capital has been invested, giving employment to upwards of a hun- dred persons, having a capacity to refine 75,000 to 80,000 barrels of the crude oil annually. In all the busy marts of trade, in every considerable town in the Eastern, and Middle, and Western States, the odorous Petroleum meets the olfactories of the passers-by. What the results of this important dis- covery will be during the next ten years remains to be seen. If the supply is in- exhaustible, and the developments of the past two years are any criterion for the future, the half has not been told of its importau<^ to the world. It has already become an important article in foreign and domestic commerce. The foreign export is already counted by millions, and in its distribution supi)lies nearly all the important countries of Europe, Australia, and other places in the East Indies, Cali- fornia, some of the South American States, and the Islands of the Pacific. 40 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. CANAL COMMERCE. The construction of the Erie Canal was commenced in the year 1817, and the waters of Lake Erie were united with the waters of the Hudson river on the 26th of October, 1826, The first revenue from the Oswego canal was received in 1828. This work was at first suggested as early as 1816, by a memorial from the city of New York to the Legislature. As early as 1724, Cadwallader Golden, then Sur- veyor-General of the province of New Tork, described the route as practical to Lakes Cliamplain and Ontario. The Erie Canal is one of the largest and most important canals in the world. Notwiifestanding the contracted scale of the first structure, the predictions of its projector, DeWitt Chnton, have been more than verified. This work was urged by Gov. DeWitt Chnton in 1791, and in 1792 by General Schuyler; by Surveyor-General DeWitt in 1808, and at every meeting of the Legislature till 1817, when the work was commenced. In 1810 Governeur Morris, Stephen Van Rensselaer, De Witt Clinton, Peter B. Porter, and others, were, by joint resolution of the Legislature, ap- pointed as Commissioners for exploring the route from the Hudson river to Lakes Ontario and Erie. In 1812 these Commissioners, in their report to the Legislature, estimated that, in 1832, there would be 250,000 tons brought down the canals, which estimate fell very considerably short of the amount carried on the canals during thtfflyear. This work is 352 miles in length, from Buflfalo to Albany, and 345 miles from Buffalo to Troy. The rise and fall from Lake Erie to the Hudson is 692 feet. The prism was originally 40 feet wide at the surface, and 28 feet at tlic bottom, and four feet deep, with locks of sullicieut size to pass boats drawing 3|- feet of water, 14 feet beam by 80 feet long. The original cost of the first structure was $9,027,456. In 1835 the LegislalTire passed an act providing for its enlargement. Under this and other acts, the prism of the canal has been increased so as to be 70 feet on the surface, 42 feet on the bottom, and 7 feet in depth, with locks 110 feet long by 18 feet wide, passing boats ^%h feet long by 17^ feet beam, drawing 5 feet 10 inch- es to 6 feet of water. There are now 71 locks on the Erie canal between Buflfalo and Albany, and 18 locks on the Oswego canal between Syra- cuse and Oswego. The enlargement is now completed after the plan adopted in 1835, with some modi- fications, at an additional cost of about fifty millions of doUars. Connecting with the main trunk of the Erie canal are the Champlain, 64 miles long ; the Chenango, 98 miles ; the Black River, 103 miles; the Chemung canal; the Genesee Valley canal, besides sever- al other connecting links, making, with the Erie and Oswego canals, a total of 1,028 miles of canal, including 100 miles of slack water navigation connected by canals, within and belonging to the State of New York. Cost and Revenues of the New York Canals. The State Auditor, in his report to the Legislature in 1863, makes a balance sheet, from which the following summary of the revenue from all sources, from 1817 to and including September 30th, 1862, and the disbursements for all purposes for the same period, has been made, viz. : CANAL . COMMERCE. 41 Receipts. Gross canal tolls $81,088,958 45 Diiv«*t taxes on the peoi>le 8,80(1,381 94 In«iiri-vt laxcs, viz: Auc..lufsf},:)Jh2,t)ii!)05 Salt duties ■2,0&Q),4:>S 06 Tax OQ St'mboat 6,721,00710 ♦General Fa ml fur Dc- ttciencies l,3Sfi,49S 8S Sali'S caual lands, U'iO,olS 15 lnt«\"St on Stivtst- inents and deposits . S.T_';1417 12 Pr«>iuiuui« on louns. . i..">4..V.U 23 Rents, surplus w't'a. . by.421 74 Eltnira and Chctnung Canal Feeder 290.0&7 66 Mlsctllaneoas sources l,Wl>,TU9 88 -$101,791,104 65 Disbursements. Prems. on purchase of stocks, comml9.,JiiC |.3r»G,T99 79 Intin-st on loans 81,bJl,4(.»8 12 Con iractors.ColU-c'tora, Weitrhm:i8tora,&c.. 22,5>S2 1S41 .... 1,521.661 l!>12 .... 1,2:36,931 1,749,196 ISi-S .... 1,513.439 2,0^1,590 ISM .... 1,S16,5S6 2,440,374 1S45 .... 1.985.011 2.646.1»1 iNiO .... 2,26\662 2,756,106 1S47 2,->6'J.slO 8,63.').3S1 IMS .... 2,796.2:30 8,2,52.212 1,216701 1849 .... 2,.S94,7;32 8.268220 672,61* 1>50 . 8 076 017 8,''7a,S99 757,491 70:3,493 Ibol .... 3.582,7:33 8.:329,717 1SV2 .... 8,86:3.441 8,11^244 777,102 185:3 .... 2.247,852 8,2«Vt,718 802. 65T 16^ ....A16\S62 2,773.566 695,^i9T 1S55 .... 4.022,617 2,b05,077 6».5.310 1>56 .... 4,116.082 2,94S.2<« 755.905 1S57 .... 4,;U4.061 2.045. r>44 59a470 1*58.... 3 665 192 2.110.754 1.7-2:3.945 719 683 1V.9 .... 3,781,6^4 552,432 IStW .... 4,650,214 3.(H)9.r>l>7 1.137.315 1>61 .... 4.507,6:35 8,90s. 7S5 2.101,635 1502 .... 5.598,7S5 6,lba,948 8,0^082 A comparison of the tonnage and rev- enue of the New York canal.s in 1861 and 1862, will show an augmentation in revenue of $1,280,158 from tolls, while the tonnage wa.s increa.'^ed 1.091,150 tons. The ag<^regate tons carried on the New- York canals since they first went into operation, \vill vary but little from eighty- iwo millions of tons, valued at upwards of four thousand milhons of dollars, from which the State bus received a gross revenue of upwards of eighty-one mLllion.s. There is, probably, not another system of public works in any country on the face of the globe that has produced in so short a period of time such Btupeudous results. 42 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. There are other commercial interests of great magnitude not mentioned in the above extracts from the Report of the Trade and Commerce of BuSalo, of which we might enumerate different kinds of grain, beef, pork, butter, cheese, ^vhiskej, alcohol, hides and leather, coal, wool, potatoes, fruit, &c. The trade with Canada, and with for- eign ports, passing through the Welland Canal, and down the St. Lawrence River to the Atlantic, is of great and growing importance — destined, no doubt, to in- crease immensely on the opening of the proposed Ship Canal, to connect with the Mississippi River, terminating at Chicago, Illinois, and other internal improvements. A railroad route from the Upper Missis- sippi, commencing near St. Paul, Minne- sota, has been surveyed, and wiU, no doubt, terminate at Superior City, or Bay- field, favorably situated on the South Shore of Lake Superior. The incalculable advantages of this lat- ter communication, to Lake Commerce, can only be realized when fully completed — thus draining Northern Iowa, Minneso- ta, and Dacota's of their rich agricultural products-v-all of which will flow eastward to the Atlantic, and European markets. TRADE AND COMMERCE OF CHICAGO. Extract from the Report of the Committee on Statistics, 1863. As an evidence of the increase of agri- [ of cultivation, your Committee would di- cultural products since 1859, consequent rect attention to the provision trade oT \ on improved crops and an enlarged area j Chicago for the last four years. TABLE, SHOWING THE RECEIPTS AT CHICAGO OP THE ARTICLES NAMED FOR THE TEARS 1859-'62. ARTICLES. 1859. 1860. 1861. 1862. Flour, barrels . • 126,321 713,348 ■ 1,479.284 1,666,391 Wheat, bushels. . . . 8,060.766 14.427.083 17,385,002 13,978,116 Corn, '■ ... . 5,401.870 15,262,394 26,369,989 29,574,328 Oats, " . 1,757,696 2,198,889 2,067,018 4,688,722 Rye, *' ... 231,514 318,976 490.989 1,038,825 Barley (1 652,696 617,619 457.589 872,053 Hogs. . 271,204 392,864 675,902 1,348,890 Cattle . 111,694 177,101 204,579 209,655 Thus the increase in cereals has been | 196 per cent. ; in hogs, 400 per cent. ; and | in cattle, 87 per cent. Results equally marked are shown by ' the returns of the other lake-ports, ; The committee of the Chicago Board of Trade, in a recent Report, say : ''In the early settlement of the West, the Mississippi was the only outlet for the products of the country ; but the open- ing of the Xew York and Canadian canals, and of not less than five trunk railways between the East and West, has rendered the free navigation of the Mississippi a matter of secondar}' importance. "The heated waters of a tropical sea, destructive to most of our articles of ex- port, a malarious climate, shimned by every Northerner for at least one-half of the year, and a detour in the voyage of TRADB AND COMMER E OF CHICAf;0. 43 over 3.000 milea in a direct lino to the market-; of the world — these consider- ations have been sulTicieutly powerful to countries f.-om New Orleans and New York respectively, as follows: From From divert the great How of animal and vcg- _ ^^'^ ^'''1'''*"*' ^'T A"''^; etable food from the South to the East. " '" " Up to 18G0. the West found a local mar- ket for an inconsiderable portion of her breadstuff's and provisions in the South; but after supplving this local demand, the j "'""^ =^"** ''"^'""^ I'"""'** amount which was e.^ported from New The total receipts of gram of all kmds, Whoat, bu.sljels. Wlu-at Flour, barrels. ... Indian 0»rn, bu.'^ht'ls,. . . Indi.m Moal, barrels. ... Pork. barril». 2,165) i,8M),ai»s W),Ml 1,161.2)0 224,882 l,fS4l,t»14 IM 86.0T8 4.2.V) 1»»9.!J79 S9«l,2-M) 16.161,T4y at that jiort. in no single year exceeded 14,500.000 bushels, either for e.xportatioa or consumption in the interior, which are about the receipts at Milwaukee, or Toledo. In 1859-00, the receipts were as Orleans was insignificant, hardly exceed- ing two millions of dollars per annum." The annual report of the Secretary of the Treasury for the year euding August 31, 18G0. shows the amount of bread- Btufld and provisions exported to foreign i follows: FLOUR. WUEAT. CORV. 0.VT9. bbls. sacks and bbls. sacks and bbls. sacks and bbls. 9G5.8G0 339,348 1,722,037 059,550 These facts show conclusively that, | exports would flow through other chan with the navigation of the Mississippi un- nels. obstructed, the great mass of Western I PEODUCT OF BREADSTUFFS FOR EXPORTATION. The amount of cereals, which, in 18r>2, j Buff"alo Trade Report, 130,329,5 12 bush- flowed out of the Upper Mississippi Val- j els, which were respectively forwarded ley and the region of the Lakes, en route Vincent 48,570 Og.leusburgh 57'",39-i Montreal A 1,101. -175 Rochester* 1,000 Wh.-aU Corn. other Grain bu^ll. bush. bush. 550,000 1,022.893 112,001 149,054 10,173 2,750,000 30.435,831 24,288,027 3,849.020 10,982,132 4,52S.9';2 1,407.823 310,403 249.3(;9 49,047 089,930 1.120,170 18,805 8.012.773 2,049,130 519,896 150 000 6,022 TUTAI.S 8,359,910 50,099,130 32,985,923 10.814,939 (JRAND Total — (Flour reduced to bushels) 1.; ■..32'.»,542 • Estimated. 44 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. SHIPMENTS OF CEREALS FEOM FOLTB LAKE POETS, IN 1862. Places. Flonr. "WTieat. Corn. Other Grain. bbls. bush. bush. bu!?b. Chicago 1,739.849 13.808.898 29,452.(J10 4,51G.35'7 Milwaukee 711.405 14.915.fi80 9,489 250,292 Toledo* 1,261,291 9,314.491 3,781,634 Detroit-I- 998,535 3.278.033 310.618 122,109 Totals 4,711,080 41,317,102 33,554,351 4,883,758 Grand Total— (Flour reduced to bushels) 103,315,611 The mining population of Lake Superior absorb not less than 150,000 bushels of cereals, which do not appear in the above tables, and which will account for the dis- crepancies between the amounts shipped from the initial points, and the amounts forwarded from the secondary points. These tables are illustrative, as showing that, in this great grain-movement, the four lake ports furnish more than fifty per cent, of all the flour, more than eighty per cent, of all the wheat, and more than seventj^-five per cent, of the cereals of all kinds ; while Chicago and Toledo together furnish more corn than finds ita way eastward through all these ave- nues, and Chicago alone contributes more than forty per cent, of the whole gross product. STATEMENT, Showing the Capacity of our Warehoiises for Handling and Storing Grain in Chicago. ELEVATING WAEE1IOU3E3. ""^^f ^^^^^^^^ s^piJ^day. bush. bush. bush. Sturges, Buckingham & Co., A 700.000 65,000 225,000 " " B 700.000 65,000 225.000 Flint & Thompson 160.000 25.000 50^000 " R. I. R. R 700.000 55,000 200.000 Charles Wheeler & Co., Gr. & C. U. R. R.. . . 500,000 50,000 125,000 Munger & Armour 600,000 50,000 100,000 Hiram Wheeler 450,000 60,000 150,000 Munn & Scott 200,000 30,000 75,000 0. Lunt & Brother 80,000 30,000 40.000 Ford & Norton lOOJOOO 40,000 45,000 George Sturges & Co., Fulton Elevator 100^000 25,000 50,000 Walker, Washburn & Co ■ 75,000 30,000 60,000 Albert, Sturges & Company 700,000 65.000 225,000 Armour, Dole & Co 850,000 85,000 225,000 Munn & Scott (new house) 600,000 55,000 200,000 L. Newberry & Co 300,000 40,000 100,000 Flint & Thompson (new house) 1.000.000 90,000 530.000 Armour, Dole & Co. " 800,000 90,000 230.000 Total Capacity of Warehouses 8,615,000 950,000 2,555,000 * Amount received from Chicago deducted. t Amount received from Chicago and Milwaukee deducted. TUAUE AND COMMKBCE OF CHICAGO. 45 PORK AND BEEF PACKING. The progress which has been made in Pork Packiug in Chicago during the past two rears, is probably without a parallel in the history of auj other citj in the United States. During the past rear there have been erected aJong the River seven large Tork and Beef houses, all of which have been constructed on the most approved plans. Besides these, there have been built a large number of s.Ttialler structures, of more or lesa permaueuce; all of which, with the temporary occupation of stores, outhouse.s. 4c, give great ad(^itional fa- cilities in the extension of this tjusiness. As the Rea.st)n is not yet closed,* we can only judge of the packiug for 1862-'3, by the number cut from the commencement of the season, till January 1, which foots up 539,216, against 229,850, packed dur- ing the same {>eriod in 1861 — an increase, thus far, of .309,366. During the past two 8ea.<'ons, a large proportion of the Hogs cut have been made into English Middles, for the Liver- j)Ool and J^ondon markets. In the early part of this season, nearly every packiug hou.se in the city was engaged in this branch of the business. Tiie favor with wliich Chicago brands have been received in the leading markets of England, war- rants us in the belief that the trade will be one of permanence. TABLE SkofdAg Ok* nwmber o( Hogs Rec«if>ed and Fortcnrd^l fur Jit « ye<.irt. EBCEIVXD. ■»*■'« Live. Dressed. Totau 41C.-.'25 124,-2(U M4Ur)C , l!vS671 M>..'»:« '2Tl.-.">4: l^i.U^ 107.715 SO-J.-Mi l&Oi Mll.(«9 l>rt,S4a 67.'..»(»tJ. l^fii U10,a7l 287,aj» i^'iA^&ao I FORWARDED. THAK Lire. Dressed. Totau 1 -vVs. 159.1 •'I 3-2,S,S2 1W.01* 1 N'.'.> h7.'2M 2-i,yy3 lleriod of time. Showing a decrease of 11,401. TABLE ShiTwing tht numfifr of rATTT-K R«c«irM and Foi^arded /or Jirt ye^irs. Ro^elvod In 1'>.^S 14fl..Vi4 1S59 Ill.»i04 lS6«i 177.101 ISfil 204..^79 ISC' 2<».6.^5 Forwarded in l!v>s 4i68S 1S.'>W 87.584 l^flO 97.474 1«61 134.146 lb62 112,715 • The cereals and agricultural products shipped from Chicago consist of ct are lumber, and wood of dif- ferent kinds. The minerals are coal, la; while (isheries furnish large quantities of cured lit^h of different kinds for exporta- tion ; altogether giving employment to a large amount of tonnage navigating the great lakes. TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES, Giving a Descriptiou of Cities, To\rns, &c. ;=:^^ Buffalo, " Queen OiTY of the Lakes," possessing commanding advantages, being 22 miles above Niagara Falls, is distant from Albany 298 miles by railroad, and about 350 miles by the line of the Erie Canal: in N. lat. 42^ 53', W. long. TS*^ 55' from Greenwich. It is favorably situated for commerce at the head of Niagara River, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the great chain of Upper Lakes, and is the point where the vast trade of these inland seas is concentrated. The harbor, formed of Buffalo Creek, lies nearly east and west across the southern part of the city, and is separated from the waters of Lake Erie by a peninsula between the creek and lake. This harbor is a very secure one, and is of such capacity, that although steamboats, ships, and other lake craft, and canal-boats, to the number, in all, of from three to four hundred, have Eometimes been assembled there for the transaction of the business of the lakes, yet not one-half part of the water accom- modations has ever yet been occupied by the vast business of the great and grow- ing "West. The harbor of Buffalo is the most capacious, and really the easiest and safest of access on our inland waters. Improve- ments are annually made by dredging, by the construction of E% new piers, wharves, warehouses, p- and elevators, which extend its .facilities, and render the dischai^e i^y and trans-shipment of cargoes ^' more rapid and convenient ; and in this latter respect it is without qual. Buffalo was first settled by the whites in 1801. In 1832 it was chartered as a city, being now governed by a mayor, re- corder, and board of twenty-six aldermen. Its population in 1830, according to the United States Census, was 8.668; in 1840, 18,213; and in 1850, 42,261. Since the Jatter period the limits of the city have been enlarged by taking in the town of Black Rock ; it is now divided into thir- teen wards, and, according to the Census of 1860, contained 81,130 inhabitants, be- ing now the third city in point of size in the State of New York. The public build- ings are numerous, and many of them fine specimens of architecture ; while the pri- vate buildings, particularly those for busi- ness purposes, are of the most durable construction and modern style. The man- ufacturing establishments, including sev- eral extensive ship-yards for the building . and repairing of lake craft, are also numer- ous, and cofiducted on a large scale, pro- ducing manufactured articles for the American and Canadian markets. The principal public buildings are an BUFFALO TO DETROIT NORTH SlIOIiK UOITK. 41 U. States Custom-irouso and Post-OfTico; City Hall: Cuurt-Houso and Jail; 2 Thea- tres, and fiO Churche.'* of difierent denom- inations. Here are also 8 bunking houses, 4 Savinj^s liauks, and several Fire and Marine Insurance Companies. The Lines of Steamers and liailroads divergiiiif from Buffalo tend to make it one of the greatest thoroughfares in the Un- ion. Steamers and propellers run to Cleve- land, Siiuduskv, Toledo, Detroit, Mjukinao, Saut Ste. Marie, LJreeu liay, Milwaukee, Chicago, ic. R.A.1LR0ADS RL'KVI.SV, FROM BrKFALO. 1. Xew York Cenlrai, to Albany and Troy, 293 miles. 2. liujjalOy Niagara Falls, and Lewiston^ 23 mile.s. 3. liufalo, Xisw York, and Erie, to the dty of Xew York, -i'M miles. 4. Lake Shore liailroud, to Cleveland, Ohio, 18:i miles. 5. Buffido and Lake Huron Raitwaii, ICl miles. 6. Grent Western (Canada) Raihray (Sus. Bridge to Detroit, Mich.). 2:50 mil.-s. There are al.<:o four lines of City Rail- roads running to different points within the limits of Buff'alo. The principal Hotels are the American, and St. James Hot-l, and Mansion Uuuse, on Main street; Bonner/ s Hotel, on Wash- in;^t< -n street, and the United States, facing the Terrace. There are now running from Buffalo to different port."* on Lnko Erie and the Up- |)er Lakes seven dillerent Lines of I'ro- j)ellers, annually transporting an inunense amount of merchdndiso and produce, which finds its exit eastward by means of I the Krie Canal, and the several Railroad Lines. ' "The climate of Buffalo is, without doubt, of a more even temperature than any other city in the same parallel of lati- , tude from the Mississippi to the Atlantic coa^t. ()bservations have shown that the 1 thermometer never ranges as low in win- I ter, nor as high in .>-ummer, a.s at points in ! Massachusetts, the eastern and central portions of this State, the northern ami southern shores of l>ake Erie in Michigan, Northern Illinois, and Wiscjusin. The winters are not as keen, nor the summers, cooled by the breezes from the lake, aa sultry ; and in a siinitary |)oint of view, it is probably one of the healthiest cities in the world. '• Loudon, usually considered the health- iest of cities, has a ratio of one death in forty inhabitants. The ratio of Buffalo is : one in tifty-six. The favorable situation I of the city for drainage, and for a sui)ply I of pure water; its broad, well-paved streets, lined with shrubl»ery aad shade- I trees; its comparatively mild winters; its j cool summers ; its pleasant drives and I picturesque suburbs, and its proximity to the '/J/^.!.-,' combine to render it one of the most desirable residences on the con- i tinent." BUFFALO TO DETROIT-NORTH SHORE ROUTE. On leaving the wliarf at Buffalo, the '^■* nicrs usually run direct for Long I on the Canada, or North Shore of --• Erie, proceeding for most of the distance in British waters, to the mouth of Detroit River. LoNO I'oi.NT, 65 miles from Buffalo, is a long strip of land, nearly 20 miles long, and from one to three miles in width, covered for the most part with a stunted I growth of forest trees. It was formerly a peninsula, running out from the laud in an easterly direction, nearly half way across the lake; but the waters having 48 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. made a wide breach across its western extremity, has converted it into an island. There is an important light-house on the east end to guide the 'mariner on his pas- sage through Lake Erie, here about 40 miles wide, and where is found the great- est depth of water. To this Point both shores of the lake can be seen in a clear morning from the deck of the steamer, affording a most grand sight when the sun rises on a cloudless day. Then may usually be seen a fleet of vessels wending their way toward Buffalo or the mouth of j the Welland Canal, through which chan- nel annually passes a great number of stseam propellers and saU vessels on their way to Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. Port CoLBOR^^;, C. W., situated about 20 miles west of Buffalo, lies at the mouth of the Welland Canal, while Port Maitland, some 20 miles far- ther, is situated at the mouth of Grand River, where is a navigable feeder com- municating with the canal, thus- affording two entrances to the above canal. Port Dover, about 70 miles west of Buffalo, and 40 miles distant from Ham- ilton by proposed railroad route, is situated on the north shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the river Lynn. Here is a good harbor, and the village is a place of grow- ing importance, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. Port Ryerse and Port Rowan are small villages on the Canada shore, situ- ated on the bay formed by Long Point. Inland there is to be found a rich and fine farming district, consisting of some of the best lands in Canada West. The Sand Hills, immediately west of Long Point, are seen for some distance as the steamer pursues her onward course toward Point aux Pins, passing through the widest part of the lake, where both shores are lost sight of for a number of miles. The water usually presents a clear green color in the middle, but near the shore is more or less tinged with muddy water, proceeding from the streams empty- ing into the lake. Port Bur well, C. W., about 35 miles west of Long Point, is handsomely situ- ated at the mouth of Otter Creek. Here is a hght-house and good harbor. A large amount of lumber and other pro- ducts are annually exported from this place to Eastern markets. Port Stanley, about 25 miles far- ther west, is handsomely situated at the mouth of Kettle Creek, being in part stir- rounded by high and picturesque hills in the immediate vicinity. The harbor is well protected, and much frequented by British and American vessels running on Lake Erie. It is nine miles south of St. Thomas, and twenty-four from London, the chief town of the county of Middle- sex, for which place it may be considered the out-port. A plank-road runs between the \^o places; also, the London ana Port Stanley Railroad, connecting with the Great Western Railway of Canada. Steamers run from Port Stanley to Buf- falo, Cleveland, and other ports on Lake Erie. Poixt aux Pixs, or Rond' Eau (usually called by the American navigators Pound O), about 100 miles west of Long Point, is a cape which projects from the Canada shore, enclosing a natural basin of about 6,000 acres in extent, with a depth of from ten to twelve feet, thus forming an excellent and secure harbor, the entrance to which has been improved by the Cana- dian government by running out piers, etc. It is proposed to construct a ship canal from this port to the St. Clair River, a distance of about 35 miles, thus avoid- ing the St. Clair Flats. Another Canadian project is to construct a canal from Gode- rich to Hamilton, C. W., about 120 miles in length. Point Pelee, l}ang about 40 miles east of the mouth of Detroit River, pro- jects a number of miles into Lake Erie, DETROIT RIVER BUFFALO TO UKTKOIT NOiHlI MiOKK KoLlE. 49 and forms, in connection with the island of Point PeK'6 and other i.-*lands in the vicinity, the most picturesquo portion of lake scenery to be met with on this in- land sea. Point Pel6b Island, belonging to Canada, is about seven miles long, and two or three miles in width. It is'^i- habited by a few settlers. The island is said to abound with rod cedar, and pos- sesses a tine lirae-stono quarry. A light- house is situated on the east side. The steamers bound for Detroit River usually pass to the north side of Point Pel<'e Island, and run across Pi'juon Riy toward 3ir Point, situated at the mouth of Detroit River. Several small islands are passed on the south, called ElisI Sifter, MidLUe S'Mer, and U'e-sf Sister; also, in the distance, may be seen the Bass Ii?LANDS, known as the "North Bass," ''Middle Bass," and ''South Bass." On the west side of the latter lies the secure harbor of Plt-ix-Bay, celebrated as the rendezvous of Com. Perry's fleet, before and afier the glorious naval victory which he achieved over the British fleet, Sep- tember 10th, 1813. Detroit Rivkr, forming one of the links between the Upper and Lower Lakes, is next approached, near the mouth of which may be seen a light on the Michi- gan shore called Gihraltiir Li'jht. and an- otlier light on an island attached to Can- a^ the steamers usually entering the river through the east or British Gkaniid of the river, although vessels often pass through tlie west or Ani^rican Channel. Amiif.rstburoh, C. W., 18 miles below Detroit, is an old and important town. The situation is good; the banks of the river, both above and below the village, but particularly the latter, where the river emerges into Lake Erie, are very beautiful : several handsome residences may here bo seen, surrounded by highly cultivated grounds. About a mile below the town is a chalybeate spring, which la said to resemble the waters of Chelten- ham, in England. British and American vessels freipiently land at Amherstburg, on their trips to and from tho Upper Lakes. Fort Maldek, capable of accommo- dating a regiment of troops, is situated about half a mile above Amherstburg, on the east bank of the river, the channel of which it here commands. At Browxstow.v, situated on the opposite side of the river, in Michigan, is the battle-'j round where the Americans, under disadvantageous circumstaneos, and with a slight loss, routed tho British forces, which lay in ambush, as the former were on their way to relieve the fort at Frenchtown, which event occurred August 5, 1812. Sandwich, C. W., is beautifull- sit- uated on the river, two miles below Detroit, and nine miles below Lake St. Clair. It stands on a gently sloping bank a short distance from tho river, which is here about a mile wide. This is one of the oldest settlements in Canada West. The town contains 3,133 inhabitants. Windsor, C. W., situated in the township of Sandwieh, is a village direct- ly opposite Detroit, with which it is con- nected by three steam ferries. It was laid out in 1834, and is now a place of considerable business, having a population of about 2.500 inhabitants. Here ter- minates the Grc'U Wt-it^-ru liudway of Canada, which extends from Niagara Falls or Suspension Bridge, via Hamilton and London, to opposite Detroit — thus forming an important link in tho great line of railroads, now linished, running from the seaboard at ditlereut points to the Missis- sippi and Missouri Rivera. RAIJLROAO ROUTE from Niagara Falls to Hamilton and I>ctroit, via Great 'Western Railway of Canada. This great International Line, extend- ing from Niagara River to Detroit River, opposite the city of Detroit, a distance of 229 miles, passes through a fine and in- teresting section of country, equal in many respects to Western New York. It connects with the New York Central and Buffalo and Niagara Falls Railroad, forming a great through route of travel. Starting from the Suspension Bridge at Clifton, two miles below the Falls of Ni- agara, the passenger train soon reaches the verge of the mountain ridge over- looking the plain below, while in the dis- tance may be seen the broad waters of Lake Ontario, usually studded with sail vessels and propellers on their way to or from the mouth of the "Welland Canal. " Traced like a map, the landscape lies In cultured beauty stretching wide." Thorold, nine miles, is situated on the line of the "Welland Canal, where is abundant water-power propelhng five or six flouring mills. A railroad ex- tends to Port Dalhousie, some five or six miles distant, connecting with a steamer running to Toronto. This road will be extended to Port Colbourne, on Lake Erie, about twenty miles distant. St. Catherines, 12 miles from the Suspension Bridge, is a flourishing town, also situated on the line of the Welland Canal, which connects Erie and Ontario. This has become of late a fashionable place of resort during the summer months, caused by the mineral waters of the " Ar- tesian Wells'^ obtaining great celebrity, owing to their curative properties. Here are several well-kept hotels for the accom- modation of visitors. St. Catherines is justly termed "i/ie Saratoga of Canada,^ ^ being annually visited by thousands of invalids and pleasure-seekers. Beamsville, 22 miles from the I Suspension Bridge, is a thriving village about one mile from the station. Grimsby, 5 miles farther, is situated on' Forty-mile Creek, the scene of some hard fighting during the war of 1812. It is a small village of 350 inhabitants ; there are two churches, a hotel, and several stores ; also, a grist and saw mills prO' pelled by water-power. Hamilton, 43 miles from Suspen- sion Bridge, is the principal station on the line of the Great Western Railway, where are located the principal offices and work- shops connected with the company. Here is a commodious depot and steamboat land- ing. Carriages and omnibuses are always in readiness to convey passengers to the hotels in the city, and steamboat landings. The Toronto Branch of the Great West- ern Railway commences at Hamilton, and extends a distance of thirty-eight miles to the city of Toronto, running near the shore of Lake Ontario. On leaving Hamilton for Windsor or Detroit, the road passes near the mansion of the late Sir Allan M'Nab, and over the Des Jardines Canal, entering the head of Burlington Bay. Here is also a Suspen- sion Bridge in sight, thrown oveir the stream as it cuts its way through the high bank which encircles the bay or lake. This point presents a beautiful view, both on leaving or arriving at the head-waters of Lake Ontario, DuNDAS, five miles from Hamilton, is situated on rising ground on the side of the mountain, and is a thriving manu- facturing place, having the advantage of a stream which flows, or rather ruslies, with great impetuosity through its centre, working on its way numerous mills. The Des Jardines Canal runs from hence to Burlington Bay, enabling the manuliic- turers to ship their goods at their own doors. BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. 51 nARRrsBUROH, 19 miles from ITain- ilton. is the station of the (Jolt Branch of the (Ireiit Western Railway. Paris, with the Upper and Lower Town, contains about .'5. 500 inhabitants; so ciilloil from its contiguity to beds of pypjiuna or pla^iter of Paris. It posses.ses a considerable amount of water-power, which works numerous mills. There are two foundries, a tannery, machine-shop, distillery, saw-mill, etc. The Buffalo and fyitke Huron Railway intersects the (.Jreat We.stern at this point, running to Gode- rich. on Lake Huron. Woods rocK, 4S miles from TTam- ilton, and 138 miles from Windsor, is a county town, well situated on rolling ground, and contains about 4,500 inhab- itants. It may be called a town of mag- nirtc«-'nt distances; East and West Wood- stock forming a street upward of a mile in length. The vacant spaces, however, are fast being filled up with stately edi- fices, and it will thus in a short time be- come one of the handsomest thorougli- fares in Canada. In this locality, noted for its handsome country seats — and indeed all the way from Hamilton — the land, as seen from the road (the railroad for the most part passes throujrh a new country), is rolling and well cleared of trees and stumps, presenting more the appearance of "merrie England" than any other section of the Province. IXGER-SOLL, nine miles farther, for- merly an Indian village, now contains about 2.000 inhabitants. A small arm of tlie Th.imes runs through it, and fur- nishes some water-power, by which sev- eral mills are worked. iSince the opening of the railway it has risen in a surprising manner; and the town, whif/h before then had a very dingy appearance, the houses being of wood and wanting paint, is now gay with white brick, and the streets resound with the hum of aa en- terprising population. London, 11 U miles from Suspension I Bridge, and 110 miles from Windsor, if not, like her English namesake, The prcit resort Of all Ih.' ciirth— c-h.ok.TiM| with all Cutnplfxions of inuukind — Ls nevertheless a very stirring business place, and presents another inst ince of the energy aud enterprise of the Canad ans. Ten years ago, this then very small vil- lage of wooden hou.ses wa.s entirely burned down, and now on its ashes is raised a moat fiourishing city, containing four banks, several wholesale houses, fif- teen churches, many of them handsome structures, and the English Church hav- ing a fine peal of bells; life and fire-in- surances otficee. breweries and distilleries. It has three newspapers and several good hotels. Population nearly IS.OOO. It is well watered by the river Thames, which, however, is only navigable up to Chatham, sixty miles distant. The London and Port Stanley R. R. here joins tho Great Western Railway; length 24 miles, running south to Lake Erie. Chatuam, 46 miles from Windsor, situated on the river Tliames, possesses the great advantage uf a navigation, and is therefore a place of considerable busi- ness. It contains eight churches; and being the county town of Kent, it has a court-house, a very handsome building, several grist aud saw mills, woollen factory, two fouudries, machine-shop, etc. Steam- ers ply between Chatham, Detroit, and Amherstburg. Population about 5,000. Windsor, 229 miles from Suspension Bridge, opposite Detroit, prettily situated on the banks of the river, is a place e3 from the bed of a creek about h:ilt' a mile distant, and is carried in pij>es to the light-liouse. Krie, *' thk Lake City of Pkn-xsylva- KIA," distant 90 miles from lUiffalo and 95 miles from Cleveland, is beautifully situated on a bluff, affording a prospect of Presquo Isle Bay and tiie Lake beyond. It has one of the largest and best harbors on Lake Erie, from whence sailed Terry's tleet during the war of 1812. The most of the vessels were here built, being linished in seventy days from the time the trees were felled ; and here the gallant victor re- turned with his prizes after the battle of Lake Erie, which took place September li»th, 1813. The remains of his tiag-ship, the Laurence, lie in the harbor, from which visitors are allowed to cut pieces as reUcs. On the high bank, a little distance from the town, are the ruins of the old French fort^Presque Isle. The city con- tains a court-house, nine churchc.*!, a bank, three hotels, a ship-yard, .sieveral eiten- Bive manufacturintr establishments, and about 10,000 inliabitanta. In addition to the Ixike Share Radrmul, the Philadelphia aiid Erie Railroad* terminates at this place, affording a direct communication with New York, PhJadelphia, and Baltimore. Presque Isle Bay is a lovely sheet of water, protected by an island projecting into Lake Erie. There is a light-house on the west side of the entrance to the bay, in lat, 42 * 8' N. ; it shows a lixed light, elevated 93 feet above the surface of the lake, and visible for a. distance of 15 miles. The beacon shows a fixed light, elevated 28 feet, and is visible for nine miles. CoxxEAUT, Ohio,*117 miles from Buf- falo and G8 from Cleveland, situated in the northeast corner of the State, stav'f on a creek of the same name, near i trance into Lake Erie. It export- quantities of lumber, grain, pork, 1- i, butter, cheese, etc., being surrounded by a rich agricultural section of country. The village contains about 2,0Q0 inhabi- tants. The harbor of Conneaut^lies two miles from the villago, where is a light- hou.se, a pier, and several warehouses. AsuTAHLLA, Ohio, U milcs farther west, stands on a stream of the samo name, near its entrance into the lake. This is a thriving place, inhabited by an Intel- ligent population estimated at 3,500, The harbor of Ashtabula is two and a half miles from the village, at the mouth of the river, where is a light-house. Fairj'ORT stands on the east side of Grand River, 155 miles from Buffalo. It has a good harbor for laktf vessels, and is a port of considerable tra«le. This harbor is so well defended from winds, and easy \ of access, that vessels run in when they I cannot easily make other ports. Uere is ■ a light-house and a beacon to guide the mariner. j Paixesville, Ohio, three miles from ; Fairport and 30 milcs from Cleveland, is a I beautiful and flourisldng town, l)eiDg sur- rounded by a tine section of country. ' It is the county seat for Lake County, and contains a court-house, five churches, la bank, 20 stores, a number of beautiful residences, and about 3,000 inhabitants. • This grent line traverses the Northern any1vanla RiilriLvl Company. :ini- . ru, oa Iho Western Division (Ta Uiilcs). 66 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Perry Monument, Erected Sept. 10, IS 60. Cleveland, "the Forest City," Cuy- ahoga County, Ohio, is situated on a plain, elevated 80 feet above the v.'aters < f Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahog river, which forms a secure harbor for ^ essels of a large class; being in N. lat. 41° 30', ^\ loner: 81° 42', The bluff on which it is built rises abruptly from the lake level, where stands a light-house, near the en- trance into the harbor, from which an extensive and magnificent view is obtained, overl'oking the city, the meandering of the Cuyahoga, the line of railroads, the ship- ping in the harbor, and the vessels pass- ing on the Lake. The city is regularly and beautifully laid out, ornamented with numerous shade- trees, from which it takes the name of "Forest City." Near its centre is a large pubhc square, in which stands a beautiful marble statue of Commodore Oliver H. Perry, which was inaugurated Sept. 10, 1860. in the presence of more than 100,000 people. It commemorates the glorious achievement of the capture of the British fleet on Lake Erie, September 10th, 1813. Cleveland is the mart of one of the great- est grain-growing States in the Union, and has a ready communication by railroad with Xew York, Boston, and Philadelphia on the east, while continuous lines of railroads run south, and west to the con- fines of settlement in Kansas and Nebras- ka. It is distant 185 miles from Buffalo, 135 miles from Columbus, 107 miles from Toledo, and 144 miles from Pittsburgh by railroad route ; 120 miles from Detroit by steamboat route. It contains a County Court-House and Jail, City Hall, U. S. Custom-House and Post Office building ; 1 Theatre ; a Library Association with a public reading-room ; 2 Medical Colleges, 2 Orphan Asylums, 35 Churches of diflferent denominations; 4 Banks, a Savings Bank, and 2 Insurance Companies; also, numerous large manu- facturing companies, embracing iron and copper works, ship-buildnig, &c. ; Gas- works, "\^^ater-works, and two City Eail- road Companies. The stores and ware- houses are numerous, and many of them well built. It now boasts of 50.000 in- habitants, and is rapidly increasing in j numbers and wealth. The Lake Superior I trnde is a source of great advantage and CLEVELAND, * TlIK FOREST CITY. 67 profit, while the other lake traffic, togeth- er with the facilities afforded by railroads and canals, makes Cleveland one of the favored cities bordering on the Inland Seas of ^Vmerica. The principal Hotels are the American Uottly Au'jier Ifou.ake Superior, altogether transporting an immense amount of merchandise, grain, lumber, iron, and copper ore. The regis- tered Tonnage of this port, in 1861, was 82.518 tons. The Si >r them Transj^ortation Company of Ohio has its principal office in Cleve- land. The Company owns 15 propellera of about 350 tons burden, running from Ogdensburgh and Oswego to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, Milwaukee, and Chicago. This line affords a cheap and si)ee(ly route for travellers and emigrants, as well as for the transportation of merchandise and produce. The Cleveland Iron }fining Company, with a capital stock of .$500,000, has its principal oOice in this city. The mine is situated neaV Marquette, Lake Superior, being distant about 11 miles from tho steamboat landing. A railroad extends to the Iron Mountain, affording faciUties for the transpctrtation of 2,000 tons of iron ore per day. This ore yields on an aver- age 66* per cent, of iron. The greater proportion 6f this ore fmds a ready'market in Cleveland, from whence the most of it is transported to the Mahoning Valley, where it meets tho coal t»f that region and is smelted and naauufactured into merchantable iron. Steamboat Route from Cleveland to Detroit. Porta, etc Miles. Cl.ETKLAM), Ohio Point Pei6e Is., dnd Light 60 Bar Point, C. W 97 Bois Blanc I3. Liijht, » ,(^ Detroit r.lvor. f ^^ Maiden, C. W 101 Olbrultar. Mich Gr.jssi' hie. '• 10-2 Mama Jiiba Is. ami Light % 108 Wt/'iniJottf. .Mich I(t0 F*i»h Islaixl Li-Lt Ill Kiirhtliii; Islanrt 112 TTtudHor, C. W liy " T 120 Ports. Ptr. Milea. Detroit, Mich Windsor, C. W 1 Fighting Island 8 Fish Island 9 Wyandottf, Mich 11 Mama Jiiba Is. and Lljht 12 Gro6se Isle 18 Gibraltar. .Mich J/ Via >'vKp, lis 00. Usual Timk, 7 hours. 58 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Black River, 28 miles from Cleve- land, is a small village with a good har- bor, where is a ship-yard and other manufacturing establishments. Vermilion, 10 miles farther on the line of the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad, IS a place of considerable trade, situated at the mouth of the river of the same name. Huron, Ohio, 50 miles from Cleve- land and 10 miles from Sandusky, is .situated at the mouth of Huron River, which affords a good harbor. It contains several churches, 15 or 20 stores, several warehouses, and about 2,000 inhabitants. The islands lying near the head of Lake Erie, off Sandusky, are Kelley's Island, North Bass, Middle Bass, and South Bass islands, besides several smaller islands, forming altogether a handsome group. Kdley's Island, the largest and most important, is famous for its grape culture, and has become a place of sum- mer resort by the citizens of Ohio and other States. On the north side of South Bass Island, lies the secure harbor of Put-in-Bay, made celebrated by being the rendezvous of Com. Pefry's flotiUa before and after the decisive battle of Lake Erie, which resulted in the capture of the entire British fleet. naval battle on lake ERIE. September 10th, 1813, the hostile fleets of England and the United States on Lake Erie met near the head of the Lake, and a sanguinary battle ensued. The fleet bearing the "red cross" of England con- sisted of six vessels, carrying 64 guns, under command of the veteran Com. ^Barclay; and the fleet bearing the '"broad stripes and bright stars" of the United States, consisted of nine vessels carrying 54 guns, under command of tlie young and inexperienced, but brave. Com. Oliver H. Perry. The result of this im- portant conflict was made known to the world in the following laconic dispatch, written at 4 p. m. of that day : "Dear General: We have met thf enemy, and they are ours : Two ships two brigs, one schooner, and one sloop. With esteem, etc., 0. H, Perry " Gen. William H. Harrison." SaiidHsIfy, "The Bay City" capita' of Erie Co., Ohio, is a port of entry and a place of considerable trade. It is ad vantageously situated on Sandusky Bay, three miles from Lake Erie, in N. lat. 41*^ 27', W. long. 82^ 45'. The bay is abou* 20 miles long, and five or six miles in width, forming a capacious and excellen* harbor, into which steamers and vessel? of all sizes can enter with safety. The average depth of water is from ten to twelve feet. The cit}^ is built on a bed of limestone, producing a good building material. It contains about 10,000 in- habitants, a court-house and jail, eight churches, two banks, several weU-kept hotels, and a number of large stores and manufacturing establishments of differ- ent kinds. This is the terminus of the Sajidiisky, Dayton, and Cincinnati Eailroad, 153 miles to Dayton, and the Sandusky, Mansfield, and ]\eivork Eaihoad, 116 miles in length. The devdand and Toledo Bail- road, northern division, also terminates at Sandusky, Toledo, one of the most favored Cities of the Lakes, is situated on the Maumee river, four miles from its month, and ten miles from the Turtle Island Light, at the outlet of the Maumee Bay mto Lake Erie. The harbor is good, and the navigable channel from Toledo of suflicient depth for all steamers or sail vessels navi- gating the lakes. Toledo is the eastern terminus of the Wahash and Erie Canal, running through the Maumee and Waba.sh vaUeys, and communicating with the Ohio River at Evansville, a distance of 414 miles ; also of the Miami and Erie Canal, which branches from the above canal 68 miles west of Toledo, and runs southwardly through the Miami BIFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. SOUTH SHORE ROUTE. 69 Valley in Western Ohio, and communi- cates with the Ohio Rivor at Cincinnati, forming together the lonpost lino of canal navigation in th»» Uniteti States. Tlio railroa', ami Tokdo Railroad. It is also the east- ern terminus of the Toledo, WalKVih, and Western Railroad, running in a south- westerly direction through the Mauraee and Wabash valleys, crossing the east- ern line of the State of Illinois, about 125 miles south of Chicago, and continuing in a southwesterly course throuj^di Dau- Tille, Springtield. Jacksonville, Naples, etc.. in Central Illinois, to the Mississippi River, and connecting with the Hannibal and St. Joseph Road, which stretches nearly due west through the State of Missouri to St. J^eepli. on the Missouri River. The Dayton and Michigan Rail- roiid, which connects Toledo with Cincin- nati, is much tlie shortest railroad lino connecting I^ake Erie with the Ohio Rivar. Besides the above important roads, the Cleveland and Tokdo Railroad torniiuates hero. Toledo is the nearest point for the im- mense country traversed by these canals and railroads, where a transfer can be made of freight to the more cheap trans- portation by the lakes, and thence tlirougli the Erie Canal. Wellaud Canal, or <)swe;;o CauiU, to the seaboard. It is not merely the country traversed by these canals and railroads that send their products, and ro- coive their merchandise, through Toledo, but many portions of the States of Ken- tucky. Tennessee, and Missouri, find To- ledo the cheapest and most expeditious lake-port for the interchange and transfer of their products and merchandise. This city is ilio Ciipital of Lucas County, Ohio, where is situated a court-liouse and jail, several fine churches, a magnificent High School edifice, and five largo brick ward school houses; a young men's association that su.stains a course of lec- tures during the winter; two banks, two insurance companies, six liotels. and a great number of stores and storehouses; also several extensive manufacturing es- tablishments. The principal hotels are tlie Island llonse and Olirer House. The population of Toledo in 1850 was about 4.000, and now it is supposed to contain 17,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and numbers. The shipping interest is increasing, here being trans-smpped annually an amount of grain exceeded onh' by Chicago, and other kinds of agricultural products of the great West. This city is destined, hke Chicago, to export (ffrect to European ports. At this time there are in process of erection in Toledo many handsome dwel- lings, numerous handsome block^s of stores, a post-otfice and custom-house by the general government, and a first-class hotel; these two latter buildings, from the plans we have seen, would do credit to any city, and when completed can be classed among the most elegant struc- tures. No city in the State can boast of liner private residences tlian Toledo; and the general cliaracter of the buildings erected in the past four years is substan- tial and elegant. Peurysbl ROH, the capital of Wood Co., Ohio, is situated on the riglit bank of the Maumee River, 18 miles above its eiurance into Maumee Bay, the southern termination of I^ke Erie. It contains a court-house and jail, four churches, 20 stores of dilTereut kinds, tliree stoam saw- 60 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. mills, a tannery, and several other manu- facturing establishments. Population about 1,500. Here is the head of steam- boat navigation on the Maumee River, affording thus far a sufficient depth of water for steamers of a large class. Old Fort Meigs, famous for having witlistood a siege by the British and In- dians in 1813, is one mile above this place. Maumbe City, Lucas Co., Ohio, is a port of entry, situated on the Maumee River, opposite Perrysburgh, at the foot of the rapids and at the head of naviga- tion, nine miles above Toledo. A side cut here connects the Wabash and Erie Canal with the river. The Toledo and Illinois Railroad also passes through this place. It contains five churches, ten stores, four flouring-miUs, three saw-miUs, one oil-mill, and other manufacturing es- tablishments propelled by water-power, the supply being here almost inexhausti- ble. Three miles above the cit^ is the site of the famous battle fought against the Indians by Gen. Wayne, in 1794, known as the Battle of Miami Rapids. One mile below the town fb Old Fort Miami, one of the early British posts. Maumee River rises in the north- east part of Indiana, and flowing northeast enters Lake Erie, through Maumee Bay. It is about 100 miles long, navigable 18 miles, and furnishing an extensive water- power throughout its course. The City of Monroe, capital of Monroe Co., Mich., is situated on both sides of the River Raisin, three miles above its entrance into Lake Erie, and about 40 miles from Detroit. It is connected with the lake by a ship canal, and is a termi- nus of the Michigan Southern Railroad, which extends west, in connection with the Northern Indiana Railroad, to Chica- go, 111. The town contains about 4.000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, a United States land-office, eight churches, several public houses, and a number of large stores of different kinds. Here are two extensive piers, forming an outport at the mouth of the river; the railroad track running to the landing. A plank- road also runs from the outport to the city, which is an old and interesting lo- cality, being formerly called Frenchtovm, which was known as the scene of the battle and massacre of River Raisin in th e war of 1 8 1 2 . The Detro it, Monroe, and Toledo Railroad, just completed, passes through this city. Steamers run from . Detroit to Toledo, stopping at Monroe. Trenton, situated on the west bank of Detroit river, is a steamboat landing and a place of considerable trade. Population, 1,000. Wyandotte, ten miles below Detroit, is a • new and flourishing manufacturing village, where are located the most ex- tensive Iron Works tn Michigan. The iron used at this establishment comes mostly from Lake Superior, and i« con- sidered equal in quality to any in the world. The village contains about 1,600 inhabitants. Railroad Route around I^ake Erie. This important body of water being en- compassed by a band of iron, we subjoin the following Table of Distances : Miles. Buffalo to Paris, C. W., via :^u^alo and Lake Huron Railroad, 84 Paris to Windsor or Detroit, via Great Western Raihvay, 158 Miles. Detroit to Toledo, Ohio, via Detroit and Toledo R. R., 63 Toledo to Cleveland, via Cleveland and Toledo R. R., lOT Cleveland to Erie, Pa., via Cleveland and Erie R. R., 95 Erie to Buffalo, via Lake Shwe Road, 88 Total miles, 595 OHIO RIVER AND LAKE ERIE CANALS. FORT WAYNE. 61 The extreme k>ngth of Lake Erie is 250 miles, f^om the mouth of Niagara Kiver tu Maumeo Bav; the circuit of the lake about 560 miles, being about 100 miles less distance than has been stated by some writers on the great lakes. Ohio River and Lake Krie €aiial§. The completion of the Miami Caval make.s four distinct cliannels of commu- nication from the Ohio River through the State of Ohio to Lake Erie, namely: 1. The Erie Extension C'lnal, from Beaver, twenty or thirty miles below Pittsburgh, to 'Erie, 136 miles. 2. The Cross- Cut Rtaver Canal, which is an ex- tension or branch from Newcastle, Pa., on the Beaver Canal, to Akron. Ohio, where it unites witli the Portsmouth and Cleveland Can:U — makint^ a caual route from Beaver to Cleveland of I4:{ miles. 3. The Ohio CanaJ, from Cleveland to Portsmoutli, through the centre of the State, 309 miles. 4. The Miami Extension, which is a union of the Miami Canal with tlie Wabash and Erie Canal, through Dayton, terminating at Toledo, at the mouth of the Maumee River on Lake Erie. 247 mile.s. The va.st and increasing busi- ness of the Ohio Valley may furnish busi- ness for all these canals. They embrace portions of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and i;ia; but are not so located as to be .. . ^ from competition with one another. At no distant time, they would unques- tionably command a sutlBcient independ- ent busines.s, were it not probable that they may be superseded by railways. The capacity of railways — both for rapid and cheap transportation — as it is dovel- oi)wd by circumstances and the progress of science, is destined to affect very mate- rially the value and importance of canals. Fort Wayne. Tlie United States government is now engaged in making extensive improve- ments at Fort Wayne, which, when com- pleted, will render it one of the strongest fortilications in the country, and almost impregnable against a land assault. The site of the fort, as is well known, is in Springwells, about three nules below the city of Detroit. Its location is admirable, being on a sHght eminence, completely commanding the river, which at that point is narrower than in any other place of its entire length. Ouns properly I placed there could effectually blockade j the river against ordinary vessels, and, with the aid of a few gunboats, could re- pulse any lieet which might present it- self. The present works were erected about the years 1842-'43, mainly under the su- pervision of (ieneral Meigs. The f(jrm of the works is that of a star, mounting thirty-two barbette guns at the angles which rake the moat, and protect it against an assault by land. The height from the bottom of the ditch is about forty feet. The exterior of the embank- ments was supported liy timbers, whicli, in the twenty years in which they have stood, have become unsound, and now give unmistakable evidence of decay. This fact has rendered necessary the im- provements which are now being made. They consist of a wall around the entire fort, built against these tiral>er.s, which will not be removed, and which will not only sustain the embankments, but will render the place much more impregnable. Tlie wall is seven feet and a half in thickness, and twenty feet in height on every side. The outside facing, two feet in thickness, is of brick, the remainder is , tilled in with pounded stone, water-hme, 62 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES, sand, and mortar, making a solid wall of great strength. From the nature of the surrounding ground?, artillery cannot be brought to bear upon the wall, with the exception of about two feet at the top. which extends above the level of the ditch. The wall, therefore, could not be battered down, and the onlj possible way by which the place could be taken would be by a laud assault and scaling the walls from the moat by means of ladders. This is eflfectually provided against by the placing of the guns, eight of which rake the moat on each side. The improve- ments now being made still further con- template placing these guns in casemates. j which will render them still more secure, I protecting the guns and gunners. Bar- bette guns will also be mounted on the bastions in addition to the casemate guns, which will be placed in a manner similar to that iu v.-hich they are now placed. These improvements will greatly strength- en tlie works and render them more per- manent. The place is an important one, as the expense the government is at in j rendering it impregnable clearly shows. In case of a war with Great Britain it would become of the highest importance. I And acting on the maxim, ''in time of peace prepare for war," it is the best time , to attend to these improvements. From TABLE OF DISTANCES 'level AND AND DETROIT TO SUPERIOR CiTY, FORMING A GrRAND STEAM- BOAT Excursion of over Two Thousand Miles. Place Ports, Ac. Clevelaxd, Ohio Maiden, C. W Detroit, Mich Lake St. Clair Algonac, Mich Newport^ " St. Clair, " Port IlrRON " I Port Sarnia, C. W. f Point au Barque — \ Off Saginaw Bay j Thunder Bay Island Point de Tour ( St. Mary's Kiver ) Church' K Landing Saut Ste. Marie Point Iroquois White Fish Point Point au Sable Pictured llocks Grand Island Marquette. Mich Portage Entry Honghto •, Mich (on Manitou Island Copper Harbor Eagle Harbor Eagle River Ontonagon, Mich La Fain te. Wis Buufiekl, Wis Point de Tour BuPBEiOR, City, Wis to Place. 100 20 T 33 6 10 17 67 75 85 14 15 25 50 20 10 40 70 Portag 55 15 16 10 60 74 4 10 70 Miles. 100 120 127 160 166 176 193 335 420 456 470 4S5 510 560 580 I Ports, Ac I Superior City, Wis. 700 Lake). 755 770 786 796 856 930 934 944 1,014 Point de Tour. Bayfield, Wis La Pointe " Ontonagon, Mich Eagle Birer *' ... Eagle Harbor "... Cupper Harbor " Manitou Island Poi-tage Entry Houghton, Mich Marquette " Grand Island Pictured Rocks Point au Sable White Fish Point... . Point Iroquois Saut Ste. Makie . . . Church's Landing. .. Point de Tour, ( Lake Huron, f Thunder Bay Island.. Otf Saginaw Bay ( Point au Barque j Pokt HrRQ^. Mich. \ ; Port Sarnia. C. W. ) ! St. a ir, Mich I Xeicport '• Algonac, Mich ; St. Clair Flats Detroit. Mich j Maiden, C. W 1 Cleveland, Ohio .(on to Pli^e. MUes. 70 70 10 80 4 84 74 15S 60 21 S 10 22S 16 244 15 259 55 314 Portage Lake). 70 384 40 424 10 434 20 454 50 6(>4 25 529 15 M4 14 558 36 694 85 679 75 754 67 821 17 8:3 S 10 WS 6 854 10 ■ 8t4 30 8'.»4 20 914 100 1,014 DETROIT. 63 institute, water-workfl. ani '-as-works. four praiu elev- ators, live Pteam grist-mill-?, and several steam sa'.v- mills. besides a great num- ber of other mauufactur- iiig establishments. There are also several extensive Detroit, "The City of thk Straits,"' ship-yards and machine-shops, where are a port of entry, and the great CDmmercial built and repaired vessels of almost, mart of the State, is favorably situated in every descriptiou. The population in N. lat. 42° 20', W. long. 82" 58', on a' 1850 was 21.891; in I860, 45,619. river or strait of the same name, elevated | The principal Hotels are the liidJle some 30 or 40 feet above its surtace, be- ' Howe, and Mfhigan Kxctumge, on Jefferson ing feven miles below the outlet of Lake avenue, and the HusseU House, on Wood- St. Clair and twenty above the muutli of ward avenue, facing Campfis Mnrtius, an the river, where it enters into Lake Krie. open square near the centre of the City. It extends tor the distance of upward of | Detroit may be regarded as one of the a mile upon the southwest bank of the ] most favored of all the Western cities of river, where the stream is three-fourths ^ the Union. It was first settled by the of a mile in width. The principal public j French explorers as early as 1701, as a and private oflQces and wholesale stores I mihtary and t^ir trading port. It clianged are located on Jefferson and Woodward | its ^•arrison and military government in avenue.*?, which cross each other at right! 1760 for a Briti.^h military commander angles, the latter running to the water's and troops, enduring under the latter r»i- edge. There may usually be seen a great number of steamboats, propellers, and sail vessels of a large class, loading or unloading their rich cargoes, destined for Eastern markets or f)r the Orait \V>sf. giving an animated appearance to this place, which is aptly called tlie Citij of th". Straits. It was incorporated in 1815. being now divided into ten wards, and governed by a mayor, recorder, and board of aldermen. Detroit contains the old State-hou-se. from the dome of which a fine view is obtained of the city and vi- cinity; the City Halt Ma«»onic IlalL Fire- men's Hall, Mechanic's Hall, Odd Fellows' Hall, the Young Men's Society Building, two .Market Buildings, forty Churches, ten gittie a series of Indian sieges?, as.saultK, and petty l)ut vigilant and harassing war- fare, conducted iigainst the English gar- ri.son by the celebrated Indian warrior Pontiac. Detroit subsequently pa>«sed into pos.session of the American revolu- ti«)nists ; but on the 16th August, 1812, it was surrendered by Gen. Hull, of the United States army, to (^len. Brock, com- mander (»f the British forces. In 1813 it was again surrendered to the Americana, under (Jen. Harrison. Tlio following Railroad lines diverge from Detroit: 1. The Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Rail- road, 62 miles in length, connecting with the Michigan Southern Itailroad at Mon- Hotel.->. besides a number of taverns; a, roe, and with oilier roads at Toledo. United Siatesi ('ust(»m-house and Post- 2. The Michojun Central Railroad, 282 office, and United States Lake Survey I miles in length, extends to Chiciig>o P.^tun. Oxhitiiato Luke l.S.V> N.w Tork, 1 niton Kiver (I5»'.»s ppMiklvn, L. I. Ponds 2.ii*M Pbila.l.-lphi;s Srhuylkill U 4.->tH> Cincinnati. Ohio liivt-r d.78fi Ijikf Ontario 4.H>t IKtroit. Detroit Uiver. .\Ti-J Clev.lan.U Lako Erie .ViXH) Montreal, Sl Lawrenci- ll 6.0(W Of the Detroit River water, Trof. Douglass, in his report of the analysis. eays : '"In estimating the value of your city water, as compared witli other cities, due allowance mu.st be made for the fact, that the total .soUd matter is materially increased by the presence of silica, alumina, and iron, elements that can produce little or no injury ; while the chlorides, much the most injurious com- pounds, are entirely absent. The pres- ence of such large quantities of silica and iron is acc!».2«^ Ci.EVKLANi), Ohio 6,(171 17.IKU SCiKAf IHmtoiT, Mich 9,10'i 21.oiy 4.\611) EniE, Penn.. 5.s'>^ 9.419 MiLWAi-KKK, Wis 1,700 20.(HJ1 4A.'2,%4 Oswr.Go, New York 12,--'i)r) ICslT llAciXE, Wis 6,107 10,<>00 Saxdcskv. Ohio 1,434 6,W>S 8,403 Toi.ED<>, Ohio l.'>2*2 8.S29 18,763 • Black i^oeX; annexed, t Ohio City annexed. DETROIT AND MILWAUKEE RAILROAD AND STEAMSHIP LINE, CON'NECTlNli WITH THE GREAT LINES OF TR.WEL EAST AND WEST. On I'-aving the llailroad Depot at De- troit the line of tliis road runs in a north- west direction to Pontiac, 2(i miles, pass- ing through a rich section of farming country. The route then continues westerly to Fentonville, 24 miles further, where commences a railroad route, running through Flint, and extending north to Saginaw, favorably situated on Saginaw river. It is intended to continue the Ftint and P>re MarqiutU Railroad, some 150 miles, to the shore of Lake Michigan, OwASSO, 78 miles from Detroit, and 110 miles from Grand Haven, is an impor- 5 tant station, from whence a railroad extends southwest to Lansin(}, the capital of the State of Michigan. It is intended to car- ry the lino of tliis road north to Saginaw City, and from thence northwo-t to Traverse Bay on Lake Michigan, where is a good harbor. From Owasso, the Detroit and Mil- waukee Railroad runs westward through St. Jolin's, Ionia, and other stations, pass- ing down the valley of the Grand River, a rich and popidous section of country, pro,'an. counectiujr with trains on the Detroit and Milwaukee railroad. This trip is delii^'htful during the summer and autumn montlis when Lake Michigan is usually calm, affoniini^ a safe and delight- fid excursion of about, six hours' contin- uance. The spacious cabins, and well- arranged dining-saloons of th"se ships, together with tlie well-provided tables, renders this route to and from the Eastern cities one of the most plea.oant and desi- rable as regards speed and objects of in- t'-rest. Usual faro from Milwaukee to Detroit, .«?S.O(t. Distance, 271 miles; time, 14 hours. From Milwaukee, westward, there is a direct connection Iwth with the MUwauk^A timl Prm'ri^ ilu Cfiien I{ailr miles wide, measur- ing its length from the outlet of St. Clair River to the head of Detroit River. Com- pared with the other lakes it is very shal- low, havmg a depth of only from 8 to 24 ! feet as indicated by Baylield's chart. It [ receives the waters of the Upper Lakes I from the St. Clair Strait by several chan- j nels forming islands, and discharges them j into the Detroit River or Strait. In the ' upper portion of the lake are several ex- tensive i.slands, the largest of which is Walpole Mnnd ; it belongs to Canada, and is inhabited mostly by Indians. All the islands to the west of Walpole Island l>e- ' long to Michigan. The Walpole, or " Old Ship Channel." forms tlie boundary between the Unitrder of the town. SouTiiKRLAKD, C. "W., is a small village on the Canatla shore, opiwsito St. Clair. It was laid out in 1S3:J by a Scotch gentle- man of the same name, who liere erected an Episcopal church, and made other valuable iniproveuients. MooRK. is a small village ten miles below Saruia on the Canada side. FuoMEFiELD. or T.\lfolrd's, C. W., is another small village, liandsomely situated four aiul a half miles below Sarnia. Here is an Episcopal church, a windmill, and a cluster of dwellings. The city of Port Huron, St. Clair Co., Mich., a port of entry, is advantageous- ly situated on the west bauk of St. Clair River, at the mouth of Black River, two miles below Lake Huron. It was cliar- tered in is.'iS, and now contains one Con- gregational, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic Church ; 8i.x hotels, and public houses, forty stores, and several wareliouses ; one steam Houring-mill. eight steam saw-mills, producing annually a large amount of lurah.-r. the logs being rafted down Black luv.-r. running througli an extensive pine r •■,'ion; here are aL=o, two yards for build- iug <«■ lake craft, two retineries of petrole- um oil one iron foundry, and several other manufacturing establishments. Popula- tion in 1860, 4,000. During the season of navigation, there is daily intercourse by steamboats with Detroit, Saginaw, and |>orts on the Upper Lakes. A steam ferry -Ixiat also plies be- tween Port Huron and Saruia, C. W., the St. Clair River here being about one mile in width. A branch of the (I rand Trunk Railway runs from Fort Gratiot, one mile and a half abeing destined to increase in population and importance. The Fort waa built in 1814. at the close of th.' war with Great Britain, and consists of a st<»ckatie, including a magazine, barracks, and other accommodations for a garri.son of one bat- talion. It fully commands' the entrance to Lake Huron from the American shore, and is an interesting landmark to the mar- mcr. Sarnia, C. "W., situated on the ea.'^t bank of St. Clair River, two miles below 70 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Lake Huron and 68 above Detroit, is a port of entry and a place of considerable trade ; two lines of railroad terminate at this point, and it is closely connected with Port Huron on the American shore by means of a steam ferry. The town con- tains a court-house and jail, county regis- ter's office and town hall ; one Episcopal, one Methodist, one Congregational, one Baptist, one Roman Catholic, and one Free Church ; seven public houses, the princi- pal being the Alexander House and the Western Hotel; twenty stores and sev- eral groceries; two grain elevators, two steam saw-mills ; one steam grist-mill^ one large barrel factory, one steam cabinet factory, one steam iron foundry, and one refinery of petroleum oU, besides other manufacturing establishments. Popula- tion, 2,000. The Grand Trunk Railway of Canada terminates at Point Edward, 2 miles from Sarnia, extending eastward to Montreal, Quebec, and Portland, Me. ; a branch of the Great Western Railway also termi- nates at Sarnia, affording a direct commu- nication with Niagara Falls, Boston, and New York. Steamers run from Sarnia to Goderich and Saugeen, C. "VV. ; also to and from Detroit, and ports on the Upper Lakes. The celebrated EnniskiUen Oil Wells, yielding an immense quantity of petroleum oil of a superior quahty, are distant some 18 or 20 miles from Sarnia, this being the nearest shipping port. These wells are easy of access by means of railway and plank-roads ; the oil is brought to Sarnia in barrels, and much of it shipped from hence direct to European ports, passing down the St. Lawrence River. The St. Clair River, opposite Sarnia, here one mile in width, flows downward with a strong current, at the rate of about six miles an hour. Steamboat Route from Sar- nia to Oodericli, Saugeen, etc. Steamers running to and from Detroit on their way to the different ports on the east shore of Lake Huron, usually hug the Canada side, leaving the broad waters of the lake to the westward. Point Edward, 2 miles above Sarnia, lies at the foot of Lake Huron, opposite Fort Gratiot, where are erected a large depot and warehouses connected with the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. Here terminates the grand railroad connection extending from the Atlantic ocean to the Upper Lakes. It also commands the entrance into Lake Huron and is an im- portant military position although at pres- ent unfortified. In the vicinity is an ex- cellent fishery, from whence large quanti- ties of fish are annuaUy exported. Bayfield, C. W., 108 miles from De- troit, is a new and flourishing place, sit- uated at the mouth of a river of the same name. Goderich. 120 miles north of Detroit, is situated on elevated ground at the mouth of Maitland River, where is a good harbor. This is a very important and growing place, where terminates the Buf- falo and Huron Railroad, 160 miles in length. {See page 53.) Kincardine, thirty miles from Gode- rich, is another port on the Canadian side of Lake Huron, where the British steam- ers land and receive passengers on their trips to Saugeen. Saugeen, C. W., is situated at the mouth of a river of the same name, where is a good harbor for steamers and lake craft. This is the most northern port to which steamers now run on the Canada side of Lake Huron, and will no doubt, ere long be reached by railroad. TRIP FROM DETROIT TO MACKINAC, ORKEN BAY, CHIOAGO, ETC. VI Stciiinboiit lloiite from I>4»rt Huron to Sa;;iiiu\v City, etc. On leaving tlie wharf at Port Huron, tlie steamers pass Fort liratiot and cuter tlie broad waters of Lake Huron, oue of the Great L'pper Lakes. ;dl alike celel)rated for the sparkliug purity of their waters. The sliores are for tlie most part low. being covered by a heavy growth of forest trees. Lakbih)RT. 11 miles from Port Hu- ron, is a small village lying on the lake tihore. Lkxingto-v. II miles further, is the capital of Siinilac County, Michigan, where is a good steamboat landing and a flo.iri.«hing settlement. Port Sanilac, 3i miles above Port Huron, is another small settlement. FoRRESTviLLE. Mich.. 47 miles from Port Huron, and TJo miles nortli of De- troit, situated on the west side of Lake Huron, ia a new settlement, where is erected an extensive .steam saw-mill. It has some three or four hundred inhabi- tants, mostly engaged in the lumber trade. Several other small settlements are situ- ated on the west shore of Lake Huron, which can be seen from the ascending steamer, before reaching Point aux Bar- ques, about seventy-hve miles above Port Huron. 8a(;isaw Bay is next entered, present- ing a wide expanse of waters; Lake Hu- ron hero attaining its greatest width, where the mariner often encounters fierce storms, which are prevalent on all of the Upper Lakes. To the eastward hes the (ioorgian Bay of Canada, with its iunu- moraulc islaad.s. Bay City, or Lower Saoivaw. near the nioiitli of Saginaw River, is a Mourish- iug town, with a population of about 2,.'>o(K Here is a good harbor, from whence a large amount of lumber is an- nually exported. It has lifteen .saw-mills, and other miuiu fact u ring establishments. Steamers run daily to Detroit and other ports. Kast Saginaw, situated on the right bank of the rivor, about one mile below Saginaw City, is a now and flourishing place, and bids fair to be one of the most important cities of the state. It is largely engaged in the lumber trade, and in the manufacture of salt of a superior quality. There are several large steam saw-mills, many with gangs of saws, and capable of sawing from four to five million feet of lumber annually ; grist and fiouring-mills, with four run of^ stones, planing-mills, foundries, machine shops, breweries, a ship-yard. aiM other mamifacturing es- tablishments, giving employment to a great number of workmen. Here is a well-kept hotel, and several churches ; a banking olliee and a number of largo i stores and warehouses. Coal of a good quality is abundant, being found near the river, and tlie recent discovery of stt't sprlo timber, otfer great in- duecinentsto settlers; and if the proposed railroads, under tho recent grant of large portions of these lands by ( 'ongress, are constructed from and to the different points indicated, this extensive and heavi- ly timbereut 50(1 inhabitants, and four saw-mills, possessing a superior water-power on tho river here emptying into the bay. It is both a luml>er and tisliing station of con- sideralile importance. Dl'ncax is the next place of importance on the lake coast, situated near the mouth of Cheboygan River. Tho United States comprise so largo a portion of this great j Land Otllco for this district is located at Western domain are provided so well with , this place. Nearly opposite lies Boi'y Blanc corresponding regions of timber, afl'ording ' Man'l, a largo and fertile tract of land, the necessary supply of lumber for tlie The celebrated Island of Mackixac is demand of the increasing iwpulation which next reached, lying within the straits, is so rapidly pourmg into these Western . surrounded by a cluster of interesting States. j points of land justly celebrated in Indian The State of Michigan — all the waters j legends and traditions. of which flow into tho Basin of the St. j Old Mackixac, lying on tho mainland, Lawrence — Northern Wisconsin, and Min- is one of the most interesting points, being nesota are the sources from which the celebrated both in French and Knglish States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Iowa, | history when those two great powers eon- and a largo j)ortion of the prairie country ] tended for the possession of this vast Lake west of tho Mississippi, must derive their { Region. It is proposed to build a railroad supply of this important article (lumber), 'from Old Mackinac to Saginaw, and one to The sup])ly in the West is now equal to the ilie southern conlines of the State, whilo deman«l, but the consumption is so great, 1 another lino of road will extend north- and the demand so constantly increasing i westward to Lake Superior, crossing tho 74 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. straits by a steam ferry. A town plot has been surveyed, and preparations made for settlement. Passing around the western extremity of the Peninsula, at the Waugoshance Light and Island, the next point is Little Traverse Bay, a most beautiful sheet of water. About fifteen miles southwesterly from Little Traverse we enter Grand Traverse Bay, a large and beautiful arm of the lake, extending about thirty miles inland. This bay is divided into two parts by a point of land, from two to four miles wide, extending from the head of the bay about eighteen miles toward the lake. The country around this bay is exceedingly picturesque, and embraces one of the finest agricultural portions of the State. The climate is mild, and fruit and grain of all kinds suitable to a northern latitude are produced, with less liability to injury from frost than in some of the southern portions of the State. Grand Traverse City is located at the head of the west arm of the bay, and is the terminus of the proposed railroad from Grand Rapids, a distance of about 140 miles. Passing out of the bay and around the point dividing the west arm from the lake, wo first arrive at the river Aux Bees Sceis. There is here a natural harbor, capable of accommodating the larger class of vessels ahd steamboats. A town named Frank- fort has been commenced at this place, and with its natural advantages, and the enterprise of parties who now contemplate making further improvements, it will soon become a very desirable and convenient point for the accommodation of navigators. The islands comprising the Beavers, the Manitous, and Fox Isles should here be noticed. The Beavers lie a little south of west from the entrance to the Strait of Mackinac, the Manitous a little south of these, and the Foxes still farther down the lake. These are all valuable for fishing purposes, and for wood and lumber. Lying in the route of all the steamboat lines from Chicago to Buffalo and the Upper Lakes, the harbors on these islands are stopping- points for the boats, and a profitable trade is conducted in furnishing the necessary supphes of wood, etc. We next arrive at Manistee, a small but important settlement at the mouth of the Manistee River. The harbor is a natural one, but requires some improve- ment. A large trade is carried on with Chicago in lumber. The next point of importance is the mouth of the Fere Marquette River. Here is the terminus of the proposed railroad from Flint, in Genesee County, connect- ing with Detroit by the Detroit and Mil- waukee Railway, a distance of about 180 miles. The harbor is very superior, and the country in the vicinity is well adapted for settlement. About 16 miles in the inte- rior is situated one of the most compact and extensive tracts of pine timber on the western coast. ^ About forty miles south of this, in the county of Oceana, a small village is loca- ted at the mouth of White River. The har- bor here is also a natural one, and the region is settled to considerable extent by farmers. Lumber is, however, the prin- cipal commodity, and the trade is prin- cipally with the Chicago market. The next point, Muskegon, at the mouth of tlie Muskegon River, is supported prin- cipally by the large lumber region of the interior. Numerous steam saw-mills are now in active operation here, giving the place an air of life and activity. The harbor is one of the best on the lake, and is at present accessible for all the vessels trading between Muskegon and Chicago. Grand Haven, Ottawa Co., Mich, is situated on both sides of Grand River, at its entrance into Lake Michigan, here eighty-five miles wide; on the opposite side lies Milwaukee, Wis. For further descrip- tion, see pag4 G6. DIRECT STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM DETROIT TO GREEN BAY, CHICAGO, &c. Sailing direct through Ljike Huron to Mackinac, or tf Mack- inac is sw»n entered, where lit's the ro- mantic Island of Mackinac. The Strait of Mackinac, with the approaches tliLretu from I^ikes Huron and Michigan, will al- | ways command attention from the passing j traveller. Through thi.s channel will pass, fur agfS to come, a groat current of com- merce, and it8 shores will be enlivened with civilized life. In this great commercial route, Lake Huron is traversed its entire length, often affording the traveller a taste of sea-sick- ncss and its consequent evils. Yet there often are times when Lake Huron is hard- ly rurTled, and tlie timid passenger enjoys the voyage with aa much zest as the more exp«.'rienced mariner. Mackinac, crowned by a fortress, where wave the SUir.s and the St ripe,'', the gem of th'.* Upper Lake islands, may vie with any other locaUty for the salubrity of its cli- mate, for its picturesque beauties, and for its vicinity to tine tishing-grounds. Here the invalid, the seeker of pleasure, as well a.s ihe s|>ortsman and angler, can lind enjoyment to their heart's content during warm weather. For des'crijjtion, stf p. 88. On leaving Mackinacfor Green Bay, the eteamer geiiens steam- boat navigation between the Bay and the head of Lake Winnebago, but it connects the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, one of which, flowing northward, falls into the At- lantic thruugli the St. Lawrence, and the otiier, ruiuiin^ southward, discharges its waters, tiirough the Mississippi, into tlie Gulf of Mexico. By this connection a steamer can start from New Orleans, pass up the Missi.ssipjii to the mouth of the Wisconsin, pass up this river to Portage, through a short canal to the Tpper Fox Rivers, down this river to Lake Winne- bago, at Oshko.sh, — down the lake to the point where it contracts into the I>ower Fox, — down this romantic river some thirty-five nules, by means of numerous canals around the principal rapids, into Gretn Bay, and so on without imerruption through tlie great lakes into the St. Law- rence to the Atlantic Ocean. ^6 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. AT llOLTE FKOM UETKOIT TO GREEN BAV, CHICAGO, ETC. 77 closos, in tho shape of good marketable lumber. This Company's Mills alone turn out over half a million of foot per weik, all of which, I believe, goes to the Chicago " But it must be borne in mind that this is but a fraction of the lumber which is made in this county. There are, be- sides the mills here^ extensive lumbering establishments at Peshtigo, Uloton, Pen- •aukee, and Little Suamico, which proba- bly turn out in the aggregate at least two million feet of lumber per week, or eighty millions per year — which added to the es- timate for this place, makes a yearly pro- duct of one hundred and twenty millions. A fair amount of business, for a single county of not over 5,000 inhabitants." Nexomonee City, Oconto County, Wis., is a thriving,' settlement, situated on the west sid-^- of Green Bay, near the mouth of Nenomonee River, containing 2,000 inhabitants, 5 large saw-mills, and several stores. The country to the west and north of this place is as yet a wilder- ness, inhabited only by a few roving In- dians. The XowniOTiee liver forms the boundary, in imrt, between Michigan and \Vii*consin. Green Bay to Lake Superior. In regard to the route from Green Bay to Lake Superior, a distance of about IGO miles, the Adrocate says: "A road from Green Bay to the most Boutherly point of Keewenaw would be less than 200 miles in length, and while it would 8hort*;n the travel over the pres- ent route (by water) at lea.st 100 miles, would open one of tht; most beautifid and fertile sections in the Union — a section which will remain unknown and unoccu- pied until such a road is opened by the ^vernment. The Lake Superior people need it most especially for procuring sup- plies, driving cattle, etc. " Th*' traveller fuids the whole distance, to within a few miles of Lake Su])erior, abounding in every rosourno which v.ill make a country wealthy and prosperous. Clear, beautiful lakes are interspersed, and these have plenty of large trout and other tish. Water aud water-powers are everywhere to be found, and the timber is of the best kind — maple groves, beech, oak, pine, etc. Nothing is now wanted but a few roads to open this rich country to the settler, aud it wiU soon ttn-m with villages, schools, mills, farming operations, and every industrial pursuit which tho more southern portion of our State now exliibits." Pexsaukek, Peshtigo, and other towns are springing up on the west shore of Green Bay, where are to be found nu- merous large lumber establishments situ- ated on the streams running into the bay. Gen A, or Mason, situated on Litlle Bay de Xoc, at the northern extremity of Green Bay, is a new and promising place. Steamers run to and from the town of Green Bay, connecting with mail stages running to Lake Superior. A ntailraute is now opened from Gena, situated at the head of Green Bay, to Marquette, L. S., a distance, by land, of about 50 miles. No doubt, ere long, a railroad will be con- structed along, the west shore of Green Bay, direct to Marquette, thus connecting Green Bay, Milwaukee, and Chicago with Lake Superior. Koiitc from on Bay to Fond icoii!«iii. There is now a railroad and steamboat route, exteutling from Green Bay to Ap- pleton, Oshkosh, and Fond du Lac, situa- ted at the hea(i, and is rapidly increa.sing in numbers and wealth. The principal hotels are the Adams House, Bri'j'js House, Luke House, Shenium House, and the Trenvnit House, besides many other public-houses of less note. Chicago also boasts of several benevolent and charitable institutions, educational and medical ; also hospitals and dispensa- ries. Its commerce is already immense, and rapidly increasing. Extract from a Letter dated, •'CaiCAGO, June 3, 18G3. To the Editors of the Xotiomd Intelligencer^ '' This ' Garden City' of the Lakes yes- terday and to-day, at the opening of the Ship-Canal Convention, pre.sented a scene of which every loyal American might just- ly feel proud, bo ho a citizen of the c Atlantic States, of the great Valley of tho Mississippi, or of the noble St. Lawrence valley, the waters of which here almost commingle, and no doubt are destined to be wedded, and to flow in uni.>o cold waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence to tho warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico, carrying on their tide the rich products of the tropics, tlie cereals of the temperate zone, and the timber and other valuaMe commodities of the colder region of the American continent. '• Chicago, when fairly understood, in a commercial, climatic, and favored point of view, as regards water and land oommuni- catit)n, has probably no equal on the face of tlie globe. Standing near the southern border of one of tlie Ave great Lakes of America, aflbrding four or five thousand miles of inland ship navigation, and by means of tiie Erie Canal of New York, favored by an outport on the Atlantic ocean, it only now wants a Ship Canal to I the Mississippi River to give it an outport j-on the Gulf of Mexico. " As to Railroad facilities, no adequate idea can be conveyed. — tlie iron bars I already extend to Montreal, Quebec, and j Portland on the northeast ; to Boston, New- York, &c., on tho cast; to Charleston and i k^avannah on the southeast, and to ilo- j bile and New Orleans on the south — I being, ere long, no doubt destined to have railroad facilities witli other cities to the Gold Regions and the Pacific ocean on the we.st; while northward a railroad lino is finished to Green Bay, Wi.scousin, and another line nearly completed to St, Paul, Minnesota, '• Look at a map of the United States and Canada, and see her favored position near the centre of the temperate zone ; while east and west Hhe lies centrally between the Atlantic and eastern blope of the Rocky Mountains. By nature she claim.^ pre-eminence as a great inland city. Give her tho boon she asks at this time, and the whole Re pubhc will be benefited, 82 TKIF lilllULGH THE LAKES. inasmuch as it will afford facilities to the far "^est, and the eastern portions of our wide-extended country. Like the Erie canal, it wHl even tend to lessen the price of provisions in foreign markets, and at the same time strengthen and enrich our own people, isorth and South, notwith- standing the latter are now in open rebel- lion." "A late writer remarks, 'Chicago is most emphaticahY ^//e city of the \Yest; for when any town can justly claim to be the greatest market for grain, beef, pork, and lumber in tlie world, then we may confidently believe that all else that en- ters into the composition of a great city will gather there to build up, if not the greatest, one of the most important cities of the continent.' " The Illinois and Michigan Canal, con- necting Lake Michigan with Ihinois Riv- er, vrhicli is sixty feet wide at the top, 6 feet deep, and 107 miles in length, includ- ing five miles of river navigation, termi- nates here, through which is brought a large amount of produce from the south and southwest; and the numerous rail- roads radiating from Chicago add to the vast accumulation which is here shipped for the Atlantic sea-board. Chicago being withia a short distance of the most exten- sive coal-fields to be found in Illinois and the j)ineries of Michigan and Wisconsin, as well as surrounded by the finest grain region on the face of the globe, makes it the natural outlet for the varied and rich produce of an immense section of fertile country. It is now proposed to construct a Ship Canal, connecting the waters of the Mis- sissippi River with Lake Michigan. Miles. 4. Chicago. Fulton, and loica (finished) 249 5. Chicago anO. Xo?-th- Western (Chicago to Green Bay) 242 6. Chicago afici Mihcaukee 85 7. Cincinnati and Chicago Ait^ Line 280 S. Galena 4.1 nd Chicago Union* (Chicago to Freeport) .^..,.121 9. Illinoix Cent'alf (Chicago to Cairo). .... .365 10. 3Iichigan Central (Detroit to Chicago). . .254 IL Michigan Southern and Xorthern Jndc- ^ ana (Chicago to Toledo, Ohio) 243 12. Pittuhurgh, Fort Wayne, and Chicago.. A6S * This road connects with the Illinois Central Eailroad. running tcestward to Dunleith, oppo- site Du Biique, Iowa, t Illinois Central Eailroad and its Branch^: Cairo to Lasalle, Main Line 308 Miles. Lasalle to Dunleith, Galena Branch 147 " Chicago to Centralia, Chicago Branch.. 267 " Total length 722 Miles. RAILROADS DIVERGING FROM CUICAGO. Miles.' 1. Chicago, Alton, and St. Louix If nilroad .2Sl 2. Chicago, BurlingtMi, and Quincy 208 8. Chicago and Jiock Island Ib2 Di§taiices from Chicago to ITlaekiiiac. Running along the West Shore of Lake Michigan. Ports. Miles- Chicago to Waukegan. Ill 35 Kenosha. Wis 16 51 Kacine, Wis 11 62 Milwaukee, W^is 23 85 Fort Washington, Wis 25 110 Shebojgan, Wis 25 185 Manitowoc, Wis 30 165 Two Hi vers, Wis 7 172 Kewaunee, Wis 22 194 Anheepee, Wis 11 205 Bavlevs Hjubor 35 240 Death's Door 20 260 (To Green Bay 80 miles.) Washington Ilarl.or, Mich 13 273 Kock Island, Mich 7 280 Beaver Island, Mich 67 347 Pt. Wangoshance, Mich 30 377 Old Mackinac, Mich.: 15 392 Mackikac, Mich S 400 Mackinac to De Tour Passage 86 De Tour to Saut Ste. Marie 56 Mackinac to 8t. Clair Kiver(Fort Gratiot) 240 Fort Gratiot to Detroit (W Fort Gratiot to Saginaw City 1 50 Fort Gratiot to Goderich, C. W 00 NAVAL VESSELS ON THE LAKES. 83 NAVAL VESSELS ON THE LAKES. Mississippi and Lake Miciiiqan Canal. A Report has recently been made in relation to the practicability, cost, and military and commercial advantages of opening a passage for gunboats and armed vessels from the Mississippi to the Lakes, by improving the navigation of the Illinois iliver, and enlarging the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The following is an extract from the above Report : " The Great Lakes and the Mississippi River are among the grandest features of the geography of the globe. Their names are at o«ce suggestive of commercial and agricultural wealth and national great- ness. Xo such systems of internal navi- gation exist elsewhere in the world. The most careful and accurate statements of their present uses for commerciiU pur- poses are truly wonderful, while the mag- nilicent future to which enlightened enterprise may lead, ta^ks the strongest imagination. '• The Mississippi system of navigable waters is variously estimated at from 10,000 to 20,000 miles. Its numerous ramifications penetrate a country of un- rivalled fertility, and in many parts abound- ing in useful metals. On the Lakes, we have a coast of 3,500 miles. Their com- merce is estimated at the value of $400, 000,000. 'in articles of prime necessity to the inhabitants of the Eastern States, and to our foreign commerce.' That of the Mississippi, in peaceful times, is sup- posed to equal this. It is the union of the.se two mighty systems that we con- template in the proposed improvement. '•For this purpose no other route exists comparable to the line now proposed, in the economy of cost of the improvement, or in general utility. It is one of nature's highways — one of the lines which she marks out for the guidance of the great emigrant movements of the race, and by which tojKJgrapliy foretells the inarch of empire. The aboriginal savage travelled it by instinct, and now educated intelli- gence can find no better place for com- pleting and uniting linos of travel and traffic embracing half a continent." Estimate for a Ship and Stearnboat Canal from Lake Michigan to the Illinois River, and the improvement of the Illinois River to the Mis.'iissippi Kiver; the canal to be 160 feet wide on the bottom, sides pro- tected with stone walls 10 feet high ; the canal and river locks to be 350 feet long and 70 feet wide, with depth of water sufficient to pass steamboats and vessels drawing six feet of water ; the canal to be supplied with water from Lake Michi- gan. Chlcaffo to Lockport, 29 milo«. The estiiniittd cu.st of earth and rock fxcavatiun on tlit- suiniiiit level from Chicapo to Lookport, with walls on both Hides 10 feet through the earth, i8 $7,092,700 Lockport to Lasalle, 07 miles: The estimated eost of cnniil to Lake Joliet, and short canals at 16 lucks, walled on both sides ; also six stone dams, GiUMeet lonjj, eleven cunal and five ri ver locks, each H.'it) feet Ion? and 70 feet wide— makin« ViS feet of lock- a^v between Le 1,615,000 Add for bridges, rijjht of way, engineer- ing, coutiugencica, tkc . . . .' 578,032 Total $18,846,824 84 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKEP. TJ. S. Naval Vessels on Lake Erie, 1812 TO 1815. Amelia, Ariel, Caledonia, Scorpion, Somers, Trippe. Tigresa, Lawrence, Niagara, Ohio, Porcupine, Glient, Class. Guns. Where built, (fecDate. schooner brig schooner sloop schooner brig schooner Erie, Pa. Purchased Captured Purchased Erie, Pa. 1812 lSl-2 1812 1812 1812 1812 1812 1S13 1813 1813 1813 1815 Total Guns, 57 Note. — At the conclusion of the war with Great Britain, this squadron, with the exception of two small vessels, and the prizes captured by the above fleet, under Com. Perry, Sept. 10, 1813, were dismantled and laid up at Erie, Fenn., and all subsequently condemned and sold, some having been sunk, with a view to their better preservation. In 1844, the U. S. steamer Michigan, 583 tons, was built at Erie, Pa., and i3 now in commission on the Upper Lakes. PvOUTE FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SATTT STE. MARIE. very great ; the carrying trade being destined to increase in proportionate ratio with the population and wealth pouring into this favored section of the Union. On reaching the green waters of Lake Michigan, the city of Chicago is seen stretching along the shore for four or five miles, presenting a fine appearance from the deck of the steamer. The entrance to the harbor at the bar is about 200 feet wide. The bar has from ten to twelve feet water, the lake being subject to about two feet rise and fall. The steamers bound for Mil- waukee and the northern ports usually On starting from the steamboat wharf near the mouth of the Chicago River, the Marine Hospital and depot of the Illinois Central Railroad are passed on the right, whde the Lake House and lumber-yards are seen on the left or north side of the stream. The government piers, long j ruji along the west shore of the lake with- wooden structures, aflbrd a good entrance in sight of land, the banks rising from to the harbor; a light-house has been constructed on the outer end of the north pier, to guide vessels to the port. The basin completed by the Illinois Central Railroad to faciUtate commerce is a substantial work, extending southward for nearly half a mile. It affords ample accommodation for loading aijd unloading vessels, and transferring the freight to and from the railroad cars. The number of steamers, propellers, and sailing vessels annually arriving and departing from the harbor of Chicago is thirty to fifty feet above the water. IiAKE Michigan is about seventy miles average width, and 340 miles in extent from Michigan City, Ind., on the south, to the Strait of Mackinac on the north ; it presents a great expanse of water, now traversed by steamers and other vessels of a large class, running to the Saut Ste. Marie and Lake Superior ; to CoUingwood and Goderich, Can. ; to Detroit, Mich. ; to Cleveland, Ohio, and to Buffalo, N. Y. From Chicago to Buffalo the distance is about 1,000 miles by water; while from ROLTK KUOM CUICAOO TO MACKINAC AND 8AUT 8TK. MARIE. 85 Chicago to Superior City, at the head of Lake Superior, or Fond du Lao, the dis- tance is about the samo, tlius atTording two excursiund of l.OUtt inilef< eaeli. over three of the great lakes or inland ^eas of America, iu st4.'amers of from l,oi»0 to 2,00U tons burden. During the summer and earlv autumn months the waters of this lake are comparatively calm, afford- ing safe navigation. But lato in the year, and during the winter and early spring months, tlie navigation of thi.s and the other great lakes is very dan^'orous. Walke<;an', Ijake Co.. 111.. 3G miles north of Chicago, is handsomely situated on elevated ground, gradually rising to 50 or GO feet above the water. Here are two piers, a light-house, several lar^'e •storehouses, and a neat and thriving town containing about 5,000 inhabitants, six churches, a bank, several well-kept hotels, thirty stores, and two steam-llouring mill.'?. Kenosha, "Wis., 52 miles from Chicago, is elevated 30 or 40 feet above the lake. Here are a small harbor, a light-hou.se, storehouses, mills, etc. The town has a popubtion of about G.ijOO inhabitants, surrounded by a tine back country. Here is a good hotel, a bank, several cluirclies, and a number of stores and inanufaetur- inj; establishments doing a largo amount of business. The Keiio,sha and liorkjord Railroad. 73 miles, ctmnecis at the latter place with a railroad running to Madison, the capital of the State, and also to the Miasis.-^ippi River. The City of Racinb, "Wis., 62 miles from Chicago and 23 miles south of Milwaukee, is built on an elevation some fortv or lifty feet above the surface of the lake. It is a beautiful and liourL>e, "The Cream City," 86 miles from Chicago, by raiirotul and steamboat route, is handsomely situated on rising ground on both siiles of the Mil- waukee River, at its entrance into I^iko Michigan. In front of the city is a bay or indentation of the lake, affording a good harbor, except in strong easterly gales. The harbor is now being improved, and will doubtless be rendereower. cajtable of giving moiion to machinery of almost any re- quired ainouut. The city is buUt ujkju 86 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. beautiful slopes, descending toward the river and lake. It has a United States Custom House and Post-OfiBce building; a court house, city hall, a United States land-office, tlie University Institute, a college for females, three academies, three orphan asylums, forty-five churches, sev- eral well-kept hotels, the Ntushall Iluuse and the Walker House being the most frequented; seven banks, six insurance companies, a Chamber of Commerce, ele- vators, extensive ranges of stores, and several large manufacturing establish- ments. The city is lighted with gas, and well supplied with good water. Its ex- ports of lumber, agricultural~produce, etc. are immense, giving profitable employment to a large number of steamers and other lake craft, running to different ports on the Upper Lakes, Detroit, Buffalo, etc. The growth of this city has been aston- isliing ; twenty years since its site was a wilderness; now it contains over 50,000 inhabitants, and of a class inferior to no section of the Union for intelligence, so- briety, and industry. The future of Milwaukee it is hard to predict; here are centring numerous rail- roads finished and in course of construc- tion, extending south to Chicago, west to the Mississippi River, and north to Lake Superior, which, in connection with the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, termin- ating at Grand Haven, 85 miles distant by water, and the lines of steamers running to this port, will altogether give an im- petus to this favored city, blessed with a good climate and soQ, which the future alone can reveal. During the past few years an unusual number of fine buildings have been erected, and the commerce of the port has amount- ed to $G0, 000,000. The bay of Milwaukee offers the ))est advantages for the con- struction of a harbor of refuge of amy point on Lake Michigan. The city has ex- pended over $100,000 in the construction of a harbor: this needs extension and completion, which wUl no doubt be effected. The approach to Milwaukee harbor by water is very imposing, lying between two headlands covered with rich foliage, and dotted with residences indicating comfort and refinement not to be exceed- ed on the banks of the Hudson or any other body of water in the land. This city, no doubt, is destined to become the favored residence of opulent families, who are fond of congregating in favored localities. The Granaries of Minnesota and Wisconsin. — The La Crosse Democrat speaks as follows of the great strides of agriculture in a region which ten years ago was a wilderness. It says: "We begin to think that the granaries of Minnesota and Northwestern Wiscon- sin Avill never give out; there is no end to the amount, judging from the heavy loads the steamers continually land at the depot of the La Crosse and Milwaukee Railroad. Where does it all come from? is the frequent inquiry of people. We can hardly teU. It seems impossible that there can be much more left, yet steam- boat men tell us that the grain is not near all hauled to the shipping points on the river. What will this country be ten years hence, at this rate? Imagine the amount of transportation that will be- come necessary to carry the produce of the upper country to market. It is hard to state what will be the amount of ship- ments of grain this season (1863), but it win be well into the millions." Railroads running from Milwaukee. Detroit and Milwaukee (Grand Haven to Detroit, 189 miles), connecting with steamers on Lake Michigan. La Crosse and Milwaukee, 200 miles, connecting with steamers on the Upper Mississippi. FROM CUICAGO TO MACKINAC AND 8AUT STK. MARIE. 87 Milxoaukee and Prairie du Chien, 192 miles, connecting with steamers on the Mississippi Hiver. Slii'i-auktc and Iloriron, 93 miles. , Mi'tcauhe' arui Wi'stern, 71 miles. j ifilirauk^a 'iml C 'i'-'"j'o, 85 miles; also, the River and Lake Shore City Railway, running: from the entrance of the harbor todiflVrent parts of the city. 1*0RT \Vashix(}T()N. i.»z;ivjkee Co., Wis., 25 miles n( rth of Mihvaul?be, is a flour- ishing place, and Ciipital of the county. ' The village contains, besides the pul)lic buildings, several churches and hotels, ' twelve stores, three mills, an iron found- ; ry, two breweries, and other manufac- tt»nes. The population Iff about 2.500. Here is a po<^id steamboat landing, from whicli large quantities of produce are an- ' nually shipped to Chicago and other lake | p.;.rts. i SnEWiYCfAN. Wis., 50 miles north of Milwaukee and 1.30 miles from Chicago, ; is a thriving place, containing about 6,000 inhabitants. Here are seven churches, several public-houses and stores, togetlior witli a light-house and piers ; the harljor | being improved by government works. ] I..arge quantities of lumber and agricul- [ tural products are shipped from this port, i The country in the interior is fast set- tling with agriculturists, the soil and eli- \ mate being good. A railroad nearly com- j pleted runs from this place to Fon'D du i Lac. 42 miles west, lying jit the head of i I.^ke Winnebago. Manitouwoc, Wis., 70 miles north of Milwaukee and 33 miles east from Green I3ay, is an important shipping port. It c^jntains about 2,500 inliabitants; five churches, several public-houses, twelve stores, besides several storehouses ; three pteam saw-mills, two ship-yards, light- house, and pier. Large (juautities of lum- ber are annually shipped fmm this port. The harbor is being improved so a.s to af- ford a refuge for vessels during etormy weather. *' Manitouwoc \n the most northern of the harbors of Lake Micliigan improved by the United States government. It d.-- rives additional importance from the fact that, when completed, it will afford the lirst point of refuge from storms for shi[>- ping lM)und from any of the other great lakes to this, or to the most southern porta of Lake Micliigan." Two RivKU.^. Wis., seven miles north from Manitouwoc, is a new and thriving l)lace at the entrance of the conjoined streams (from which the j)lace takes its name) into Lake Michigan. Two piers are here erected, one on each side of the river; also a sliip-yard, an extensive leather manufacturing company, chair and pail factory, and three steam saw-mill.s. The village contains about 2,000 inhabi- tants. Kewaunee, Wi.s.. 25 miles north of Two Rivers and 102 miles from Milwaukee, is a small shipping town, where are situated several saw-mills and lumber establish- ments. Green Bay is situated about 25 miles due west from this place. AiiN'EEFEE, 12 miles north of Kewaunee, is a lumbering village, situated at the mouth of Ahueepee, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. The back coimtry hero assumes a wild apjiearance, the forest trees being mostly pine and hemlock. Gibraltar, or Bailey's IIauuor, is a good natural port of refuge for sailing craft when overtaken by storms. Here is a settlement of some 400 or 600 inhabi- tants, mostly being engaged in fishing and lumltering. Port le.s Morts or Death's Door, the entrance to Green Bay, is passed 20 miles north of Bailey's Harbor, Detroit hUind lying to the northward. TOTTOWATOMEE, Or WaSHINOTOX ISL- AND, is a fine bixiy of land atUiched to the State of Michigan ; also. Rock Island, situated a short distance to the north. (See route to Green Bay, drc). 88 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. On leaving Two Rivers, the steamers passing through the Straits usually run for the Manitou Islands, Mich., a distance of about 100 miles. Boon after the last vestige of laud sinks below the horizon on the west shore, the vision catches the dim outline of coast on the east or Michi- ' gan shore at Point aux Bee Scies, which is about 30 nnles south of the Big Mani- tou Island. From this point, passing northward by Sleeirlng Bear Point, a sin- gular shaped headland looms up to the view. It is said to resemble a sleeping bear. The east shore of Lake Michigan presents a succession of high sand-banks for many miles, while inland are numer- ous small bays and lakes. Little, or South Manitou Island, 260 miles from Chicago, and 110 miles from Iklackiuac, lies on the jSIichigan side of the lake, and is the first island encoun- tered on proceeding northward from Chi- cago. It rises abruptly on the west shore 2 cr 300 feet from the water's edge, sloping toward the east shore, on which is a light-house and a fine harbor. Here steamers stop for wood. Big or North Manitou is nearly twice as large as the former island, and contains about 14,000 acres of land. Both islands are settled by a few families, whose principal occu- pation is fishing and cutting wood for the use of steamers and sailing vessels. Fox Islands, 50 miles north from South Manitou, consist of tlireo small islands lying near tlic middle of Lake Micliigan, which is here about 60 mUes wide. On the west is the entrance to Green Bay, on the east is the entrance to Grand Trav- erse Bay, and immediately to the north is the entrance to Little Traverse Bay. Great and Little Beaver Islands lying about midway between the Manitou Islands and Mackinac, are large and fer- tile bodies of land, formerly occupied by Mormons, who had here their most east- ern settlement. Garden and Hoa Islands are next pass- ed before reaching the Strait of Mackinac, which, opposite Old Fort Mackinac, is about six miles in width. The site of Old Fort Mackinac is on the south main or Michigan shore, directly opposite Point Ste. Ignace,on the north main shore. St. Hdena Island lies at the entrance of the strait from the south, distant about fifteen miles from Mackinac. Old Fort Mackinac,* now called Mao kinac City, is an important and interesting location; it was formerly fortified and garrisoned for the protection of the strait and this section of country, when in- habited almost exclusively by various tribes of Indians. This place can be easily reached by saU-boat from the island of Mackinac. Pte. le Gros Cap, lying to the west of old Fort Mackinac, is a picturesque head- land well worthy of a visit. The Strait op Mackinac is from five to twenty miles in width, and extends east and west about forty miles, embosom- ing several important islands besides Mackinac Island, the largest being Bois Blanc Island, lying near the head of Lake Huron. Between this island and the main north shore the steamer Garden City was wrecked, May 16, 1S54; her upper works were still visible from the deck of the passing steamer in the fall of the same year. Grosse Ile St. Martin and He St. Martin lie within the waters of the strait, eight or ten miles north of the island of Mackinac, In the neighborhood of these different islands are the favorite fishing- grounds both of the Indian and the "pale face." Mackinac, the Town and Fortress, is most beautifully situated on the east shoi-c of the island, and extends for a distance of about one mile along the water's edge, and has a fine harbor protected by a * Settled by the French under Father Marquette in 1670. FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SALT HTE. MARIE. 89 water battery. This important island and fortress is situated in X. lat. 45"' 54', "\V. Ion. 84"* 30' from Greenwich, being seven degrees thirty minutes west from Wash- ' ington. It is 350 miles north from Thica- po, 100 miles .south of SautSlo. .Marie bv the .neambo;it route, and abi>ut 300 mik'S n irthwest from Detroit. Fort Markinac^ girriaonod l>y U. States troops, stands on elevated ground, alxnit 200 feet above the water, overhwking the picturesque town and harbttr below. In the rear, about half a mile disUmt stand the r uins of old Fort Iloliiifs, situated on the highest point of land, at an elevation of 3J0 feet above the water, affnrding an ext-'usive view. The town contains two churches, live hotels, ten or twelve stores. 100 dwelling- houses, and about 700 inha]>itants. Tlie climate is remarkably healthy anddeliglit- ful during the summer months, when this favored retreat is usually throng'.»(l with visitors from different parts of the Union, while the Indian wairiors, their squaws and their children, are seen lingering around this their favorite island and tishin^-ground. The Island of Mackik.vc, lying in the Strait of Mackinac, is about three miles long and two miles wide. It contains many deeply interesting points of attrac- tion in addition to the village and fortress ; the principal natural curiosities are known as the Arched Rock, Sugar Loaf, Lover's Ij»iap, Devil's Kitchen, li rangi^ of the Pirturtd ure. The following extract, ilhistratod by I A'c'Av* on the shores f»f Lake Superior, an eiigraviuff. is copied from " Foster As an int<'resting point in the scenery of an i WiUTSKYS Gtiolo'jral lifjfort" of that ih'\s island, the Arched Kock attracts region : j much attention, and in every respect is "As particular examples of denuding i worthy of examination." {Ste Engracing.) action on the island, we would mention \ Other picturesrk has been excavated in I The bathing in the pure waters of the a j)rojecting angle of the limestone cliff, ! Strait at this place is truly delightful, and the top of the span is about ninety | affording health and vigor to the human feet above the lake-level, surmounted by frame, about ti'U feet of rock. At the base of a projeeting angl-. whieh rises up like a buttress, there is a small opening, through , _,_ _ , ^ ^w whioh an explorer may pass to the main ' ^lic Inland of .lla<-kiiiac. arch, where, at\or clambering over the Romantic and Pictiresquk A ppe.^r.^nce steep .slope of debris and the projecting I of the Island and Sl'Rrolndinu edges of the strata, he reaches the brow of the cliff. " The beds forming the summit of the arch are cut off from direct connection with the main rock by a narrow gorge of no great depth. The portion supporting the arch on the north side, and the curve CoLNTRY — Its Plrity of Atmosphere — A Moonlight E.vclrsion, ve the btornx, Most fits such a plaot' for iniisin;: iiu-n ; Hajipiest, souutiuu-a, when musing without aim." of the arch itself are comparatively fra- J [IV»lluk. gile, and cannot, for a long j^Kjriod, resist i In this Northern region, Nature has at the action of rains and frosts, which, in last fully resumed her green dresn. Flow- this latitude, and on a rock thus cousti- j ers wild, but still beautiful, bloom and tuted, produce great ravages every season, j di.sapiK?ar in succession. Birds of various The arch, which on one side now con- hues havo returned to our groves, and nects this abutment with the main cliff, welcome us as we trace these shady walks, will soon be destroyed, as well as the j " In all my wand'rings round this world abutment itself, and the whole be precipi- j of care,' 1 have found no place wherein tated into the lake. i the climate, throughout the summer sea- " It is evident that the denuding action son, seems to exercise on the human con roducing sujii aa o.^'uing. with other I stitution a more beneficial influence than attendant phenomena, could only have j on this I.4aud. In other parts of this operat<*d while near the level of a large country and in Burojie. the places of lirsort boiy of water like the great lake it.self; i are beautiful, iudeed; but a certtiu 0|>- and we !ind a striking similarity between '■ pressiveuuss there at times pervades tho 92 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. air, that a person even vdih tlie best health in the world, feels a lassitude creep- ing through his frame. Here, we seldom, if ever, experience such a feeling from this cause.' For the western breeze even in the hottest days passing over this island, keeps the .air cool and, especiaUy if proper exercise be taken by walking or riding, one feels a bracing up, a certain buoyancy of spirits that is truly astonishing. Ye inhabitants of warm latitudes, who pant in cities for a breath of cool air, fly to tliis isle for comfort. Ye invahd, this is the place in which to renovate your shattered constitution. The lovers of beautiful scenery or the curious in nature, and the artist, whose magic pencil de- hghts to trace nature's hneaments, need not sigh for the sunny clime of Italy for subjects on which to feed the taste and imagination. This island is intersected by fine car- riage roads, shaded liere and there by a young growth of beech, maple, and other trees. On the highest part of it, about 300 feet, are the ruins of Old Fort Holmes. From this point of elevation, the scenery around is extensive and beautiful. In sight, are some localities connected with " the tales of the times of old," both of the sav- age and the civilized. Looking westward- ly, and at the distance of about four miles across an arrn of Lake Huron, is Point St. Ignace, which is the southernmost point of land, of the greater portion of the Up- per Peninsula. Immediately south of it are the "Straits of Mackinac," which sep- arating the Northern and Southern Penin- sulas from each other, are about four miles wide. On the south shore, may still be sei.'U traces ofOld Fort Mackinac, which is well known in history as having been destroyed by Indians, in 17 G3, at the in- stigation of Pontiac, an Indian Chief. Turning our gaze southeastwardly, we see ihe picturesque " Round Island," as it were at our feet. And further on, is "Boid-Blanc Island," stretching away with its winding shores, far into Lake Huron. Look to the east, and there stands this inland sea, apparently "bound- less and deep, "and "pure as th' expanse of heaven." Directly north from our place of observation, are the "Islands of St. Martin;" while beyond them in the Bay, are two large rivers — the Pine, and Carp Rivers. And lastly, casting our eyes to- wards the northwest, we see on the main land the two "Sitting Rabbits;" being two singular looking hills or rocks, and so called by the Indians from some resem- blance at a distance to rabbits in a sitting posture. As a whole, this scenery pre- sents, hills, points of land jutting into the lake, and "straits," bays, and i.slands. Here, the lake contracts itself into narrow channels, or straits, which at times are whitened by numerous sails of commerce ; and there, it spreads itself away as far ss the eye can reach. And, while contem- plating this scene, perhaps a dark column of smoke, hke the Genii in the Arabian Tales, may be seen rising slowly out of the bosom of Lake Huron, aunouncmg tlie approach of the Genii of modern days, the Steamboat 1 Let us descend to the shore. It is evening! The sun, with all his glory has disappeared in the west ; but the moon sits i# tui-n the arbitress of heaven. And now — '■'■ How sweet the moonlight sleeps upon this bank; Here will we sit, and let the sounds of music Creep in our ears; soft stillness and the niglit. Becomes the touches of sweet harmony.'" Such a moonlight night I once enjoyed. The hum of day-lile had gradually subsid- ed, and there was naught to disturb tl^.e stillness of the hour, save the occasional laughter of those who Hngered out in the open air. In the direction of the moon, and on the Lake before me, there was a broad road of liglit trembling upon its bosom. A few moments more, two small boats -with sails up to catch the gentle breeze, were seen passing and re-passing FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND 8AUT 6TE. MARIE. 93 this broad road of light. Then the vocal Bong was raised on tlie waters, and w o- man'a voice was borne on moonlight beam to the listening ear in tlie remotest shades. The voices became clearer and stronger as the boats apj)rt)ached nearer; then, again, dying away in tlie distance, seemed to be merged wiiii the mellow rays of tlie moon. But let us leave poetry and fancy aside, and come to matters of fact, mat- ters of accommodation, ])repared for those who may favor our island with their visits this summer. There are several large hotels, with at- tentive hosts, ever ready to contribute to- wards the comforts of their visitors. Walk- ing, riding, fishing, shooting, and sailing can be here pursued with great benefit to health. We have billiard-rooms and bowl- ing-alleys; in tiie stores are found Indian curiosities; and, perhaps, the Indians themselves, who resort to this island on businea.s, may be curiosities to those who have never seen them; they are the true "native Americans," the citizens of this Korth American Republic. RouxD Island is a small body of land lying a short distance southeast of Macki- nac, while Bois Blaxo Island is a large body of l:xnd lying still farther in the dis- tance, in the Straits of Mackinac. St. Martins Bay, and the waters con- tiguous, lying north of Mackinac, afibrd fine fishing grounds, and are much re- sorted to by visitors fond of aquatic sports. Crtat St. Martins and Littk St. Martins Jilands are passed before entering the bay, and present a beautiful appearance. Carp and Pine rivers are two small streams entering into St. Martin's Bay, affording an abundance of brook trout of a large size. From the head of th»^ above bay to the foot of Lake Superior, is only about 3U miles in a northerly direction, passing through a wilderness section of country, sparsely inhabited by Indians, who have long made this region their favored hunting and fishing grounds. Point De Tour, 36 miles east from Mackinac, is the site of a light-house and settlement, at the entrance of St. Marys River, which is here about half a mile in width; this passage is also called the West Channel. At a distance of about two miles above the Point is a new set- tlement, where have been erected a steam- boat ])ier, a hotel, and several dwellings. j Drummond Island, a largo and imi>or- 1 tant body of land belonging to the United States, is p.issed on the right, where are to be seen the ruins of an old fort erected by the British. On the left is the main- land of Northern Michigan. Ascending St. Mary's River, ne.xt is passed Round or PiPK Island, and other smaller islands on the right, presenting a beautiful ap- pearance, most of them belonging to the United States. St. Joseph Island. 10 miles above j Point de Tour, is a large and fertile island belonging to Canada. It is al>out 20 miles long from east to west, and about 15 miles broad, covered in part with a heavy growth of forest-trees. Here are seen the ruins of an old fort erected by the British, on a point of land commanding tho channel of the river. Cakltonville is a small settlement on the Michigan side of the river, 12 miles above the De Tour. Here is a steam saw- mill and a few dwelling-houses. Lime Island is a small body of land belonging to the United States, lying in the main channel of the river, about 12 miles from its mouth. The channel here forms the boundary between the United States and Canada. Mi'D Lake, as it is called, owing to its waters being easily' riled, is an e.\j>arL'ay are bark canoes and the far- famed ' Mackinac boats,' without num- ber. These last are the perfection of light sail-boats, and I have often been astonished at seeing them far out in the lake, beating up against winds that were next to gales. Yesterday the harbor W»s thronged with sail boats and vessels of every description, among the rest wero the orfly two iron steamers that the Uni- ted States have upon all the lakes, the 'Michigan' and the '.Surveyor.' formerly ttdled the ' Abert,' employed in the Coast Survey. " For a wonder, I^ake Huron was calm and at rest for its entire length, and the steamer 'Northerner' made a beautiful and quick pa.ssage from Mackinac to this place. The weather continues v\aim and [ dry, and hundreds are regrettmg they , have so early left the Saut and Mackinac, j and we believe you will see crowds of I visitors yet. Jay." J SI. itiarj's River. By a careful examina- tion of the (lovernmeut Charts of the Straits of Mackinac and River Ste. Marie, published in 1 H5T, it appears that the Point De Tour Light- Iluuse is situated iu 45** 57' N. Lat., being 3G miles to the eastward of Fort Mackinac. The width of the L>e TourjKis.sage is about one mile, with a depth of water of KjO feet and upwards, although but 50 feet is found off the light, as you run into Lake Huron. Druiainund hlmil, attached to the United States, lies on the east, while the main shore of Michienn lies to the west of the entrance. Pipe Island, i 4 miles, is first pa.<^sed on ascending the [ .'Stream, and then Lime Island, G miles i further. St. Joseph's Island, with its old\ fort, attached to Canada, Ues 8 miles from ! tlie entrance. Potagannia- sing Hay. dotted with nu- merous small islands, most- ly belonging to the United States, is seen lying to the eastward, communicating with the North Chan- nel. Jtud Lake, C miles further, is next entered, having an ex- panse of about 4 miles in width, when Saikrr's Encampment Island is reached, being 20 miles from Lake Huron. The head of St. Joseph's and part of Sugar Island are reached 2G miles northward I from the De Tour, where diverges the I Canadian or North Channel, running into the Georgian Bay; this channel is fol- 1 lowed by the Canadian steamers. The y'ebish li'iipiiLe are next passed, and iMke ; George entered. G miles further, being 32 I miles from Lake Huron. This lake or ex- i pansion of the river is 9 miles in length I and 4 miles broad, affording 12 feet of j water over the shoals and terminating at ! Church's iMudtng, lying opposite S'/nir- Irei Island, attiiched to Canada. (;n beds of c;dcareous rock, over which a .shifting drift of sand or gravel pa.'-ses by the action of the waves. 100 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. where the water is shallow; and from being exposed to the sun, the temperature of the lake is warmer at these locahties than elsewhere. Thither the fishermen resort, and net the fish, vapid and placid as they are, in fabulous amounts." GEORGIAN BAY. The deeply romantic character of this pure and lovely body of water is almost unknown to the American pubhc — lying as it does to the northeast of Lake Huron, being entirely within .the confines of Canada. The nortlieast shore is the most romantic and highly interesting, from the fact of tliere being innumerable islands and islets along the coast, greatly exceed- ing in number the " Thousand Islands" of the St. Lawrence. From Penetanguishene, northeast to She-ba-wa-nah-ning, where commences the picturesque body of water known as the North Channel, there is one continued suc- cession of enchanting "scenery. Here the wild fowl, fur-bearing game, and the finny tribe disport in perfect freedom, being as yet far removed from the busy haunts of civilization. Georgian Bay is nearly as large as Lake Ontario, while the North Channel, connect- ing with St. Mary's River on the west, may be said to be as large as Long Island Sound, dotted with a large number of love- ly islands, while to the south lies the romantic island of the Great Manitoulin, and on the north rises La Clocht Mountain — altogether forming the most grand and romantic scenery. ROUTE FEOM CCILINGWCOD, C, W., TO THE SAUT STE. MAEIE. THROUGH GEORGIAN BAY AND NORTH CHANNEL. This is a new and highly interesting steamboat excursion, brought into notice by the completion of the Ontario, Simcoe, and Huron Railroad, extending from Toronto to CoUingwood, at the southern extremity of Georgian Bay. NoTTAWASSAGA Bay, thesoutliem termi- nation of G eorgian Bay, is a large expanse of water bounded by Cape Rich on the west, and Christian Island on the east, each being distant about :iO miles from CoUing- wood. At the south end of the bay lies a small group of islands called the Hen and Chickens. Christian Island, lying about 25 miles from Penetanguishene, and 25 miles north- east of Cape Rich, is a large and fertile island, which was early settled by the Jesuits. There are several others passed north of Christian Island, of great beauty, wliile still farther nortliwest are encoun- tered innumerable islands and islets, form- ing labyrinths, and secluded passages and coves as yet almost unknown to the white man, extending westward for upward of one hundred miles. Penetanguishene, C. "V\''., 50 miles north of CoUingwood by steamboat route, situated on a lovely and secure bay, is an old and very important settlement, com- prising an Episcopal and Roman Catholic church, two hotels, a custom-house, severa ROUTE FROM COLLINGWOOD TO 8AUT STK MARIE. 101 stores and storehouses, and haa about nOO inhubitant-i. In the immediate vicinity are a navnl and military depot and barracks, established by the British ffuvemiuciit. The natural beauties of the bay and har- bor, combined with the picturcs(iue scenery of the shores, make up a picture of rare beauty. Here may be seen tlie native Indian, the half-breed, and the C.inft'lian Voyageur. with the full-blooded Eu:ouud along the north shore of Georgian Bay. La Clochk Mountains, rising about 2,000 feet above the sea, are next seen in the distance, toward the north ; these, com- bined with the wild .scenery of the islands and headland.s form a grand panoramic view, enjoyed from the deck of the passing steamer. Smyth's Bay is pa.ssed on the west, some eight or ten miles dLstant. At the head of this bay. on the great Manitoulin IsLind, are situated a vilh^ge of Indian.s, and a Jesuit's mission, called We-(iua-me- kong. These alxirigines are noted for their industry, raising wheat, corn, oats, and potatoes in large quantities. Th'3 part of the island is very fertile, and the climate is healthy. She-ba-\va-nah-ning. signifying, in the Indian dialect, " IlTt is a Channel," is a most charming spot, 40 miles distant from Lonely Island, hemmed in by mountains on the north and a high rocky island on the south. It is situated on the north side of a narrow channel, about half a mUe in length, wliich lias a great depth of water. Here are a convenient steamboat landing, a church, a store, and some ten or twelve dwellings, inhabited by Cana- dians and half-breeds. Indians as.-'cmble here often in considerable numbers, to sell their fish and furs, presenting with their canoes and dogs a very grotestjue appear- ance. One resident at this landing usual- ly attracts much attention — a noble dog, of the color of cream. No sooner does the steamer's l»ell ring, than this animal rushes to the wharf, sometimes assisting to secure the rupo that is thrown ashore ; 102 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. the nert move ho makes is to board the vessel, as though he were a custom-house officer ; but on one occasion, in his eager- ness to get into the kitchen, he fell over- board ; nothing daunted, he swam to the shore, and then again boarding the vessel, succeeded in his desire to fill his stomach, showing the instinct which prompts many a biped office-seeker. On leaving She^ba-wa-nah-ning and pro- ceeding westward, a most beautiful bay is passed, studded with islands ; and moun- tains upwards of 1,000 feet in height, pre- senting a rocky and sterile appearance, form an appropriate background to the view ; thence are passed Badgley and Heywood Islands, the latter lying off Hey- wood Sound, situated on the north side of the Great Manitoulin. Max-i-tou-wah-xixg, 25 miles north- west of She-ba-wa-nah-ning, is handsome- ly situated at the head of Heywood Sound. It is an Indian settlement, and also a government agency, being the pilace annually selected to distribute the Indian annuities. Little Current, 25 miles westof She- ba-wa-nali-ning, is another interesting landing on the north shore of the Great Manitoulin, opposite La Cloche Island. Here the main channel is narrow, with a current usually running at the rate of five or six knots an hour, being much afi'ected by the winds. The steamer stops at this landing for an hour or upward, receiving a supply of wood, it being furnished by an intelligent Indian or half- breed, who resides at this place with his family. In- dians are often seen here in considerable numbers. They are reported to be indo- lent and harmless, too often neglecting the cultivation of the soil for the more uncertain pursuits of fishing and hunting, although a considerably large clearing is to be seen indifl'erently cultivated. Clapperton Islanj) and other islands of less magnitude are passed in the Korih Channel, which is a large body of water ' about 120 miles long and 25 miles wide- On the north shore is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company, which may be seen from .the deck of the passing steamer. CocKEURN Island, 85 miles west of Little Current hes directly west of the Great Manitoulin, from which it is sepa- rated by a narrow channel. It is a large island, somewhat elevated, but uninhabit- ed, except by Indians. Drummond Island, 15 miles farther westward, belongs to the United States, being attached to the State of Michigan. This is another large body of land, being low, and as yet mostly uninhabited. The next Island approached before landing at Bruce Mines is St. Joseph Is- land, being a large and fertile body of land, with some few settlers. Bruce Mines Village, C. W., is situ- ated on the north shore of Lake Huron, or the "North Channel," as it is here called, distant 290 miles from Colhngwood, and 50 from the Saut Ste. Marie. Here are a Methodist chapel, a public-house, and a store and storehouse belonging to the Montreal Copper Mining Company, besides extensive buildings used for ci-ush- ing ore and preparing it for the market ; about 75 dwellings and 600 inhabitants. The copper ore, after being crushed by powerful machinery propelled by steam, is put into puddling troughs and washed by water, so as to obtain about 20 per Cent, pure copper. In this state it is shipped to the United States and England, bringing about $80 per ton. It then has to go through an extensive smelting pro- cess, in order to obtain the pure metal. The mines are situated in the immediate vicinity of the vilkige, there being ten openings or shafts from whicli the ore is obtained in its crude state. Horse-power is mostly used to elevate the ore ; the whims are above ground, attached to wliich are ropes and buckets. This mine gives employment to about 300 workmen. TRIP FROM COLLINOWOOD TO POUT WILLIAM. 103 The capital Pt/)ck of the company amounts to .>?G0(),000. fho Weliiiigton Mine, aYxmi one mile dis- tant, is also owned \>y the Montreal Min- ing Company, hui is leiised and worked by an English company. This mine, at the present time, is more productive than the Bruce Mines. The liake Sui)erior Journal gives the followin;; doscripiioii of the Bruce Mine, from which is proihiced a copper ore dif- f.rin<; from that which is yielded by other mines of that peninsida. "Ten years ago this mine was opened, an»l large sums expended for machinery, which proved useless, but it is now un- der new manageraetit, and pro.iiises to yield protitaljly. Twelve shafts have been opened, one of which has been carried down some :'.30 feet. Some 200 or :'>00 men are employed, all from the Kurtapan mines. Some of tiie ores are very b(^uti- ful to the eye, resem))lin<:( line gold. After bein^ t;»ken out of the shaft, they are taken upon a rail-track to the crusliiug- house, where they are passed between larj;e iron rollers, and sifled till only a tine powder remains; from thence to the 'jigger- works,' where they are shaken in water till much of the earthy matter is washed aw.iv. after which it is piled in the yard ready for shipment, having more the appearance of mud than of copper. It is now mostly sliipped to Swansea, in Wales, for smelting. Two years since, 1,500 tons were shipped to Baltimore and Buffalo to be smelted." On resuming the voyage after leaving Bruce Mines, the steamer runs along St. Joseph Island tlirough a beautiful sheet of water, in which are embosomed some few islands near the main shore. Campemest D'OtiLs is an island passed on the left, lying contiguous to St. Josepli Island. Here are encountered several small rockv islands, forming an intricate channel called the '• Xurrowsr On some of the islands in this group are found cop- per ore, and beautiful specimens of moss. The forest-trees, however, are of a dwarf- ish growth, owing, no doubt, to tlie scant- I incss of soil on these rocky islands. ! About 10 miles west of the " Narrows," j the main channel of the St. Mary's Uiv- ! er is reached, forming the boundary be- I tween the United States and Canada. A I rocky island lies on the Canadian side, I which is reserved for government pur- ■ poses, as it commands the main or ship I channeL ' Sugar Island is now reached, which belongs to the United States, and the steamers run a further distance of 25 miles, when the landinir at the Saut Ste. Ma- \ Tie is reached, there bcinj^ settlements on ' both sides of the river. The British boats usually land on the north side, whde t!ie American boats make a landing on the i south side «jf the river, near the mouth of 1 the ship canaL TRIP FROM COLLINGVtOOD TuE FIR.ST Trip of ' tiie ElUorof th". Toronto Gbbe. Sir : As you have on all occasions taken a prominent part in advocating the opening up of the Hud- ai's Bay Territory and the North Sliore of Lako Superior. I .f wind on the beam n)r many hours, between Mich- ' ipicolieu Island and Fort William, she made her 10 i miles per hour, and, durin;; the gale, wa.s" steady, and free from any 104 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. unpleasant motion. "We left Collingwood at 10.30 A. jr., on the 12th July, 1858, Captain Kennedy in charge of the mails, for Red River. We passed Cabot's liead at 6.30 p. M.; Cove Island light, at 9 p. m. (merely a lantern on the top of the tower, visible about two miles on a clear night) ; passed between the middle and western Duck Islands at 4 a.m., at easy steam, so as to enter the Missisaga Straits in day- light ; at 11.20 a. m., ran alongside the wharf at Bntce i/mes; landed mails, and •wooded. Under the kind supervision of Mr. Davidson we inspected the process of extracting copper ore from the bowels of the earth. We found that it contained 4 per cent, at the mouth of the pit, and 25 per cent, barrelled up in the form of paste. Sometime ago, the Montreal Mining Com- pany (o^vning the Bruce Mines), leased half their location to the Wellington Min- ing Company. There are, in consequence, within one mile, separated by a small island, two estal^lishments, forming one considerable town. Arrived at Saut Ste. Marie, Pim's wharf (British side), at 7 p. M. ; landed mails, and ran over to the American side for coals. At 6 a. m., on the 14th, entered the ship-canal, paying six cents per ton lockage dues. Mr. Simp- son, of the Hudson's Bay Company, very politely sent with us the Captain of their schooner to pilot us through to Pine Point, where we engaged his son-in-law, Alex. Clark, as pilot. "Passed White Fish Point, Lake Su- perior, at 10 o'clock A. M., Caribou Island at 4.30 o'clock p. m. This island was so- called, from the circumstance of Captain McHargo, who accompanied Bayfield in his survey, having on one occasion killed 60 Caribous on it. At 6 p. m., we were close to ' Rescue' Harbor, Island of Mi- chipicoten. The harbor at Michipicoten is described by the pilot, who has been 15 years on the lake, as superb, and is so laid down by Bayfield. The island is about 16 miles by 6, covered with spruce, fir, birch, ash and maple, the latter grow- ing on elevated ground. There are sever- al lakes upon it, fuU of speckled trout ; the bay is fuU of salmon, trout, and white fish. A schooner was loaded iiere last season in a very short time -^vith fish in and about the harbor ; and the climate is said by old voyagewrs to be far more pleasant during the winter than at the Saut and other places farther south, being of a drier nature* Between the island and the main land is the most sheltered passage, with two ex- cellent harbors on each side, one at Ot- ters' Creek and the other at Michipicoten River and harbor. This latter place is an important port of the Hudson's Bay Company, distant from Moose For% Hud- son's Bay, 300 mUes, which has been pass- ed over in canoes in six days. Michipi- coten Island is said to contain great min- eral (^posit — silver, copper, and lead ; the Quebec Mining Company have a location here. At daybreak on Thursday we passed Slate Island, and shortly after encountered a dense fog and lay to tiU 1 p. m. It was two o'clock before we saw land. Passed close to Thunder Cape, a perpendicular rock rising from the water's edge 1,350 feet. Anchored at Fort William, situ- ated at the mouth of Kaministoguoi River at 7 p. M., on Thursday 15th, and lauded the mail. Owing to a bar and shoal at- the mouth of the "iver, wo anchored about a mile from the Fort, early on Friday the IGth. Some of the party went up the river in canoes to the Jesuit Missioyi, about three miles, where they were kindly re- oeived»by the priest. Capt. Jas. Dick and Mr. McMurrich went fisliing to Current River, about five miles to the north, where the speckled trout proved too large and * The romantic and uninhabited harbor on the south side of Micliipicdien Ishind, exceeds in safety, extent, and grandeur any harbor fouud on tlio shores of tliese great lakes. It was visited by the steamer '' IHoughhoy,'''' witli a party of j>leasure on board in 1860, lying at anchor all night. TRIP FROM COLLINQWOOD TO FORT WILLIAM. 105 strong for their Kght rods and tackle, Bnmsliiiig the tops ot'tlieir rods and tear- ing away their linos and llies as last as they were thrown in, and ihoy had to give it up for want of material. One of the trout cauglit was the largest ppeoklcd trout I have soen for some years. There are trout in this stream, and in all the rapid streams between the Saut and Fort Wil- liam, from 2 lbs. to 6 lbs., and if larger ones are required, at Necpigon River they can »)e caught from 8 lbs. to 12 lbs. Fancy such a spot, ye disciples of Isaac "Walton ; speckled trout U> be had for the trouble of throwing a My, within 3^ days of Toronto, weighing from 2 lbs. to 12 lbs. In this vicinity are to' bo found beautiful specimens of amethyst and other precious stones. " The gardens at Fort William and at th Jesuit Mission are as forward as those on the north part of tlie county of Simc<)0. The Hudson's Bay Company have a Large farm. 30 cows besides horses and sheep, and up the river there are other farms; they raise oats, barley, and all kinds of vegeuljles, and I see no rea- son why they cannot raise wheat. Mrs. Mclntyre. the wife of the agent, was verv polite and kind, and invited us all up to the Fort — gave us supplies of milk and vege- tables. By this route their trade is car- ried on to Red Ri('er. Sir George Simj)- son returned from Red River just before we arrived with two canoes (9 men in each) and left again for the Saut. This bay, ' Black Thunder, Xeepigon Bay, and Pie Island Bay and neighbut $4. Thirty barrel-; of white ti.-ih were taken at one haul of a seine Acar Fort William. i I "Wo left Port William at 8 p. m., for Grand Portaje, passing McKay's Mount of Cireenst^ne. 1.000 feet p.Tpendicular heigljt. La Pate or Pie Island. S'.O feet perpendicular ; tliis island is said to abound in lead ; hardly a stone can be picked up on the shore without lead in it. On all these islands valuable stones can be pick- ed up, tit for brooches and rings. The channel being very intricate, and the pilot not quite posted up, we lay to till day- break, and entered Grand PurUoje Bay at 5 A. M. Capt. Kennedy landed here with the mails, purchased a canoo, and was ready to start before we left. A nucleus of a town has already sprung up hero on the United States side. "After giving Capt. Kennedy a hearty shako of the hand all round, we started homeward, at 7.15 a. m., and passed Cop- I per Harbor at 2 p. m., Manitou Light 5.50 I P. M., White Fish Point 6.40 a. m. ; and on the 18th July entered the Saut I Canal at 10.18 a. m. Coaled on the i American side, and wo<^xied on Pirn's } wliarf Britisli side. Landed the mail, and I started at 2.45 p. m. Came to the wharf I at Bruce Mines at seven v. m. — wooded and left at 7.40 — passing tiirougli the Mis- sesaga Straits and the channel between the Middle and West Duck. On the 19th passed Cove Island liglit at 8 a. m.,— Cabut's Head 10 o'clock a. m., and came to the wharf at CoUing- wood at 6 p. M. Thus making the first trip, including delays and stoppages rotmd Lake Superior, in seven days and siX hrnirs ; distance run, taken from Bayfield's chart, between 1,250 and 1,300 (geographi- Cid) miles. The average speed, runnista.aaee arosiiid I^ake Saut Ste. Marie to Fort "William, C. W., 300 miles ; Fort William to Superior City, Wis., 200 miles; Superior City to Saut Ste. Marie (American side), 365 miles — making tlio grand circuit of Lake Supe- rior, 1,065 miles. DistatBce§ from tlie Saut. Ste. jTlarie to Superior City, Ports, &c. Distances. Miles. Saut Ste. Marie, Mich 00 Point Iroquois 15 15 White Fish Point 25 40 Point au Sable ; 50 90 Pictured Rocks 20 110 Grand Island 10 120 Muni-sing, Mich 5 125 Marquette, " 45 170 Huron Islands 45 215 Portage Entry 25 240 Hough*' n (Portage Lake, 14 m.) Manitou Island, or Kewee- ) ^^ oaq naw Point [ Copper Harhor 15 315 Agate Harbor 10 325 Eagle Harhor 6 331 Eagle River 9 340 Ontonagon, Mich 65 405 Porcupine Hills 25 430 La Pointe, Wis 52 482 Bayfield 3 485 Point de Tour 10 495 Superior City, Wis 70 565 GRAND PLEASURE EXCURSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. On leaving the Ship Canal, at the Saut, tlie steamer ascends a beautiful stretch of the St. Mary's River for 10 miles be- fore reaching Waiska Bay, being an ex- pansion of the river of about 5 miles. Here the shores assume a bold appearance Avell worthy the attention of the traveller before launching out on the waters of the broad lake. Iroquois Point, on the American side, and GrROS Cap, on the Canadian side, are next passed, ] 5 miles from the Saut Ste. Marie. The latter is a bold promontory, rising some 400 or 500 feet above the water, with still higher hills rising in the distance. Tonquamenon Bay is tiext entered, and a scene of grandeur is presented to the view; on the southwest or American shore the land rises to a moderate height, while on the northeast or Canada shore the land rises to mountain height, being elevated from 800 to 1,000 feet, running off far in the distance toward the north. Parisien and other islands, attached to Canada, are passed on the right, the bay being about 25 miles long and as many broad; in fact, forming a part of Lake Superior, whose pure waters are in full view as far as the qjq can reach. GouLAis Bay, and Poin't, another bold headland, lie to the north of Gros Cap, EXCl'RSIOJi AROUND LAKE 8LPKR10R. 107 where enters a river of the Bamo name, and are situated on Iho Canada side. Here are tine tishing-^rrounds in the bay, while the river aboiiiid.s in speckk-d trout, being a favored resort for lishing-paities during pleasant weather. Lake !$upcrior, by far the large!«t of tlie Inland Seas of North America, ly- ing between 4G" 30 and 49" north lati- tude, and between 84^ 30' and 92^' 30 west longitutle, situated at a lieight of 600 feet above the sea, from whicii it is distant about 1,500 miles by the course of its outlet and the St. Lawrence River, is 460 miles long from east to west, and 170 miles broad in its widest part, with an average breadth of 85 miles. It is 800 feet in greatest deptli, extending 2(»0 feet below the level of the ocean ; estimated area, 32,000 square miles. Near two hundred rivers and creeks are .said to flow into the lake, the greater part being small streams, and but few navigable, ex- cept by canoes, owing to their numerous falls and rapids. It contains several islands, the most important of which are IsU Jioyale, and The Tiveloe AyostUs, near its western extremity, and Grand Lsland, all attached to the United States ; Caribou Island, Michipicoten, St. Ignace, Pie, Slate, and other islands attached to Canada. Kbwken'aw Poivt is its most remarka- ble feature, jutting far out into the lake some sixty or seventy miles. On the range of hills ninning through this point, about 20 miles wide, are found the most val- uable copper miws in the world. Its good and secure harbors are but few on the south side of the lake, while on the north shore and islands are .several perfectly safe harbors, and easy of access. It dis- charges its surplus waters by the Strait, or liivor St. Mary, 60 miles long, into Lake Huron, which lies 27 feet below, most of the descent being at the Saut Sto. Marie, where is a ShipCan;d tliree-fourlhs of a mile in leugtli, with two locks of 10 feet less each, overcoming a descent of 20 feet. " The early French Jesuit fathers, -who first explored and described this great lake, and publi.re particularly ; on the north shore, mountain masses of considerable elevation rear themselves I from the water's edge, while mural i>reci- I pices and beetling crags oppose themselves to the surges of this mighty lake, and threaten the unfortunate mariner, who may be caught in a storm upon a lee-shore, with almost inevitable destruction.'' " Father of LjikesI thy waters tH»ncl lit'vond t^Je eiigle's iitnio.it view, "Who'n. throned in heav«-n. lie sees thee send Back to the sky its world of blae, "Bonndle.ss and deep, the forest.** we.avo Th.ir twiliirht !*huile thy borders oer. And threatenin^c cliffs, like giants, heavo Their rugged forms along thy shore." There are now situated on the Ameri- can side of Lake Superior twelve light- houses, viz., on Point Iroquois; White Fish Point; Grand Islan be seen the (''/•"'•aJt: /'j^v and i great natural curiosities, although such other objects of great interest. The Am- 1 an assemblage of rocky strata, washed by phitheatre. Miners' Ca-stle, Chapel, Griuid i the waves of the great lake, would not, Portal, and Sail Rock, are points of great j under any circumstances, be destitute of picturesque beauty, which require to oo j grandeur. To the voyager coasting along seen to be justly appreciated. their base in his frail canoe they would, ExtraH from Foster and "W'kitn'ky's ' at all times, be an object of dread; tho Eeport of tlie iJeology of the Lake Supe- j recoil of tho surf, the rockbound coast, rior Land District: Fifliired Kocks. — •' The range of clifts to which the name of tho Pictur- ed Hocks has been given, may be regard- atTording for miles no place of refuge; the lowering sky, tho rising wind; all these would excite his apprehension, and induce him to ply a vigorous oar until the ed as among the most striking and beau- 1 dreaded wall was passed. Put in the tiful features of the scenery of the North- 1 Pictured Rocks there are two features west, and are well worthy the attention ! which communicate to the scenery a won- of the artist, the lover of the grand and ' derful and almost unique character. The.se beautiful, and the observer of geologic;U I are. tirst, the curious manner in which the phenomena. I cliffs have been excavated and worn away "Altliough occasionally visited by trav- 1 by the action of the lake, which for cen- ellers, a full and accurate description of \ turies has dashed an ocean-like surf this extraordinary locality has not as yet been communicated to the public* "The Pictured liock-s may be described, in general terms, a.s a series of sandstone bluffs extending along the shore of Lake Superior for aljout live miles, and rising, in most places, vertically from the water, against their base; and, second, the equal- ly curious manner in which largo portions of the surface have been colored by bands of brilliant hues. **It is from tht» latter circumstance that the name by which these cliffs are known to the American traveller is derived; while without any beach at the base, to a height that api)lied to them by the French coyfi- varyiug from hfty to nearly two hundred * Schoolcmft ha.<» un the st-i-nery. The fikeU-hfii er. As the surface-water permeates through the porous strata it comes in contact with these shaly bands, and, oozing out from tlie exjxjsed edges, trickles down the face of the cliffs, an(l leaves behind a sediment, colored according to the oxide which is contained in the band in which it origi- nated. It cannot, however, be denied that there are some peculiarities which it is difliculc to explain by any hypothesis. '• On lir.^t examining the Pictured Rocks, we were forcibly struck witii the brilliancy and beauty of the colors, and wondered why some of our predecessors, in their descriptions, had hardly adverted to what we regarded as their most characteristic feature. At a subsequent visit we were surprised to tind that the effect of the colors was much less striking than be- fore ; they seemed faded out. leaving only traces of their former brilliancy, so that the traveller might regard tliis as an un- iniportaut feature in the .sceuery. It is difficult to account for this change, but it may be due to the dryness or humidity of the season. If the colors are produced by the percolation of the water through the strata, taking up and depositing the colored sediments, as before suggested, it is evident that a long period of drought would cut oQ' the supply of moisture, and the colors, being no longer renewed, would fade, and tinally disappear. This explanation seems reasonable, for at the time of our second visit the beds of the streams on the summit of the table-land were dry. "It is a ctirious fact, that the colors are so tirmly attached to the surface that they are very little affected by rains or 112 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. the dashing of the surf, since they were, in numerous instances, observed extend- ing in all tiieir freshness to the very wa- ter's edge. ''Proceeding to the eastward of the Amphitheatre, we find the clitis scooped out into caverns and grotesque openings. of the most striking and beautiful variety of forms. In some places huge blocks of sandstone have become dislodged and ac- cumulated at the base of the cliff, where they are ground up and the fragments borne away by the ceaseless action of the surge. '' To a striking group of detached blocks the name of 'Sail Rock' has been given, from its striking resemblance to the jib and mainsail of a sloop when spread — so much so that when viewed from a dis- tance, with a full glare of light upon it, while the cliff in the rear is left in tlie shade, the illusion is perfect. The height of the block is about forty feet. " Classes of rock are frequently dis-" lodged from the cliff, if we may judge from the freshness of the fracture and the appearance of the trees involved in the descent. The rapidity with which this undermining process is carried on. at many points, will be readily apprecia- ted when we consider that the cliffs do not form a single unbroken line of wall ; but, on the contrary, they present numer- ous salient angles to the full force of the waves. A projecting corner is undermin- ed until the superincumbent weight be- comes too great, the overhanging mass cracks, and, aided perhaps by the power of frost, gradually becomes loosened and finally topples with a crash into the lake. '' The same general arched and broken line of chffs borders the coast for a mile to the eastward of Sail Rock, where the most imposing feature in the series is reached. This is the Grand Portal — Lt Grand. PortaU of the voyageurs. The gen- eral disposition of the arched openings which traverse this great quadrilateral mass may, perhaps, be made intelligible without the aid of a ground-plan. The main body of the structure consists of a vast mass of a rectilinear shape, project- ing out into the lake about six hundred feet, and presenting a front of three hun- dred or four hundred feet, and rising to a height of about two hundred feet. An entrance has been excavated from one side to the other, opening out into large vaulted passages which communicate with the great dome, some three hundred feet from the front of the cliff. The Grand PortaL which opens out on the lake, is of magnificent dimensions, being about one hundred feet in height, and one hun- dred and sixty-eight feet broad at the water-leveL The distance from the verge of the cliff over the arch to the water is one hundred and thirty-three feet, leaving thirty-three feet for the thickness of the rock above the arch itself. The extreme height of the chfl" is about fifty feet more, inaklng m all one hundred and eighty- three feet. •'It is unpossible, by any arrangement of words, or by any combination of col- ors, to convey an adequate idea of this wonderful scene. The vast dimensions of the cavern, the vaulted passages, the varied eftects of the light, as it streams through the great arch and faUs on the different objects, the deep emerald green of the water, the unvarying swell of the lake, keeping up a succession of musical echoes, the reverberations of one's own voic-e coming back with startling effect, all these must be seen, and heard, and felt, to be fuUy appreciated. '•Beyond the Grand Portal the chffs gradually diminish in height, and the gen- eral trend of the coast is more to the southeast ; hence the rock, being less ex- posed to the force of the waves, bears fewer marks of their destructive action. The entrance to Chapel River is at the most easterly extremity of a sandj"- beach which extends for a quarter of a T»F lIBMRf OF THE 0»IVEfiSliy OF /LLttOIS EXCURSION AKOLXD LAKK SUPERIOR. 113 mile, and affords a convenient Linding- plat^, while the drifl-tcrraoe, elevated about thirty feet above the kske-Ievcl, be- in(f ;iU open pine plain, aflurds excellent ciimping-ground. and it; the most t-entral and eonvenieut spot for the traveller to pitch his tent, wliilc he examines the most interesting localities in the series wliich occur in this vicinity — to wit, the Grand Portal and the Chapel. (S^e Engran'ruj.) "The Chapel— Les. At the base of one of them an arched cavity or niclie has been cut. to which access is liad by a fiight of steps formed by the projecting strata. Tlie disposition of the wliole is puch as to resemble very much, the pulpit of a cliurch ; since there is overliead an arch- ed canopy, and in front an opening out toward the vaulted interior of the chaiH?!, with a tlat tabular ma^s in front, rising to a convenient height for a desk, while on the right is an isolated block, which not inaptly represents an altar; so that if the wliole had been adapted expressly for a place of worship, and fashiist> in (;iviii;j tht-tu a s«'Vfre ducking — !i ciniiioiiy Boiiuwhat ^inlilur to (h;it pnwUscd yii grcvu-horns when crusslug Iho lino. 114 TKIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Lake SMperlor Region. The following verses were written by J. G. Whither, on receiving an eagle's quiU. when on a visit to Lake Superior in 1846. THE SEER. I hear the far-otf voyager's horn, I see the Yankee's trail— His foot on every mountain pass, On every stream his sail. He's whistling round St. Mary's Falls, Upon his loaded train ; He's leaving on the Pictured Eocks His fi-eshtobacco stain. I see the mattock in the mine. The axe-stroke in the dell, The clamor from the Indian lodge, The Jesuit's chapel bell! I see the swarthy trappers come From Mississippi's Springs ; And war-chiefs with their painted brows, And crests of eagle wings. Behind the scared squaw's birch canoe, The steamer smokes and raves ; And city lots are staked for sale Above old Indian graves. By forest, lake and water-fall, I see the peddler's show ; The mighty mingling with the mean. The lofty with""thelow. 1 hear the tread of pioneers Of nations yet to be ; The first low wash of waves where soon Shall roll a human sea. The rudiments of empire here Are plastic yet and warm; The chaos of a mighty world Is roundiug into foi-m ! Each rude and jostling fragment soon Its fitting place shall find — The raw materials of a state, Its muscle and its mind! And, westering still, the star which leads The new world in its train, Has tipped with fire the icy spears Of many a mountain chain. Grand Island, 125 mUes distant from the Saut, is about 10 miles long and 5 wide, lying close in to the south shore. This is a wild and romantic island ; the clift's of sandstone, irregular and broken into by the waves, form picturesque cav- erns, pillars, and arches of immense di- mensions. There are several romantic bays and inlets protected from storms, which are frequent on this great lake, where the brook trout of a large size can be caught in quantities. The forests also afford a delightful retreat, while all nature seems hushed — save by the moaning winds and billowy surges of the surround- ing waters. A few families reside on the south shore, facing the mainland, where is a clearing of considerable extent. The main-shore in full sight, and the Pictured Rocks, visible from its eastern shore, alto- gether add a charm to this truly Grand Island, unsurpassed by no other spot in this interesting region. MuNisiNG, formerly called Grand Island City, lies on the south side of Grand Island Bay, here about 3 miles in width. Here is a steamboat wharf and hotel, together with a few dwellings, being, no doubt, destined to become a favorite place of resort, as from this place the Pictured Rocks can be easily reached by canoes or small boats during calm weather. Trout fishing is also good in Ann's River, which enters Grand Island Bay, and in Miner's River, near the Pictured Rocks. The bay or harbor is capacious, deep, and easy of access from the east or west, being 6 miles in length by from 2 to 4 in width, with a depth of water of 100 feet and upwards. It is perfectlv land- locked by hills rising from 100 to 300 feet high, and capacious enough to contain the entire fleet of the lakes. It is proposed to construct a railroad from this harbor to the head of Big Bay de Xoc, the most northern arm of Green Bay, onh^ 40 miles distant. Mixer's Point, a most remarkable head- land, lies 6 miles east of Munising, at the mouth of a small stream of the same name. KKMAKKAIJLE PHENOMENA ON LAKE Sll'EKIoH. lid Tlio action of t!io waters has here dis- intetrrated portions of the sand-stone fonnation, forming romantic caverns and grottoes where the waters of the lake penetrate, making strange music in the subterranean passages. MUM'MKNT BOOK. Monument Rock, about one mile west of Miner's Point, is another strange freak of nature, being an upright column stand- ing in full view, near the water's edge, elevated some ^0 or 100 feet above the lake. (.SVc Knijrariwj.) All the.se points can easily be reached from Munising by a sail or row boat, during calm weather. Remarkable l*lieiioiiieiia on Lake !!iii|>eri<»r. The sudden and singular changes of the weather on Lake Superior, in connection with its healthy influence, iluriug the sum- mer and fall mouths, present one of the phenomena of nature which seems almost uuaccountal^le. The sun frequently ri.^es clear and cloudless, giving indications of continued sunshine, when suddenly the sky becomes overcast with white, fleecy clouds, scudding low and giving out a chilly atmosphere, not unfrequently ac- companied witli rain, — the clouds as sud- denly disappear, and a pleasant afternoon usually follows, with light winds. This influence, causing a tiuctuation of .^evend degrees of the thermometer, seems to have an injurious effect on most kinds of fruit and vegetables reipiiring a warm sun throughout the day .in order to arrive at maturity; the country a few miles in- land, however, being less suVjject to tliose frequent changes. Un the 0th of August, 18G0, there oc- curred a remarkable phenomenon, as wit- nessed on (Jrand Island Bay. near tlie Pictured Rocks — Lake Superior being here about 170 miles wide. During the fore- noon of a plea.sant summer's day. the wa- ter was observed suddenly to fall some three or fnir feet pori)"ndieularly on the south shore, then ri-^o in about half an hour, as suildenly again to recede and rise several times; exposing tlie bed of the lake for a considerable distance whore 116 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. the water was shallow, affording a fine op- portunity to coUect pebbles of different hues, and precious stones. At noon the wind blew moderately from the southward, while the thermometer ranged at about 74" Fahr. This appa- rently calm and pleasant weather was ta- ken advantage of by a party of pleasure to cross the bay in a sail-boat from Munising to Grrand Island, 3 miles distant, affording a delightful excursion. On looking eastward at about 4 o'clock, p. m., a dense fog or low cloud was seen rapidly to enter the east channel of the bay, from the north- ward, rolling on in majestic grandeur, and presenting apparently the smoke caused by the discharge of a park of artillery, ob- scuring every object in the far distance, while the headlands within one or two miles were distinctly visible. As it ap- proached, the thermometer fell several degrees, and rain followed, attended with lightning and thunder. Soon, however, the wind lulled, or entirely ceased, while the rain poured do\\Ti in torrents. The mist or fog seemed mostly to ascend as it passed over the high lands on the main land, and assumed the appearance of clouds, while portions remained, in low and wet localities, above the forest-trees, — presenting altogether a most magnifi- cent appearance. The rain-storm and cloud effect, after continuing some two hours, as suddenly ceased, followed by a splendid rainbow, — being the harbinger of a pleasant evening and calm weather for a time. Mackenzie, who vrrote in 1789, relates a very similar phenomenon, which oc- curred at Grand Portage, on Lake Supe- rior, and for which no obvious cause could be avssigned. He says : "The water with- djiew, leaving the ground dry which had never before been visible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet, and rush- ing back with great velocity above the common mark. It continued thus rising and falling for several hours, gradually decreasing until it stopped at its usual height." To the mariner these sudden storms and fluctuations, accompanied by fog, are attended with much danger, more partic- ularly if near the land, when the sun and all objects in sight suddenly disappear as if in darkest night, the terrific noise of the waves and wind alone being heard. When followed by snow the danger is still more increased, frequently causing the most disastrous shipwrecks. In this high latitude a perfect calm seldom contin- ues but for a short time ; the wind will oc- casionally luU, when fitful gusts disturb the waters, to be followed by a breeze or storm from some quarter of the compass. On examining the meteorological record kept at Fort Mackinac, about 100 miles distant in a southeast direction from Grand Island, it was found that the thermome- ter ranged at 78° Fahrenheit at 2 p. M. on the above day; the wind being from the south. At 7 p. M. a heavy rain and thunder storm commenced, whii:'h lasted two hours, the same as on Lake Superior, terminating with a gorgeous sunset view, exceeded only by the magnificent aurora, which frequently illuminates the northern heavens in this high latitude, or the beau- tiful mirage of mid-day, which reflects with remarkable distinctness the invisible landscape, and vessels floating on the bo- som of this vast inland sea. How far the receding of the waters had to do with the above coming storm, must be left to conjecture or further in- vestigation — no doubt, however, it caused a displacement of water at sonic remote parts of the lake, which was almost im- mediately felt at other and far distant points. So with the vapory clouds which suddenly rise over Lake Superior ; they, no doubt, being caused by cold currents of air from the higher regions or north- west, passing over warmer portions along the soutli shore, when immediately a mist or fog is created, which ascends in the REMARKABLE PUENOMENA ON LAKE BIFERIOR. 117 form of clouds into the upper regions;' not, however, at lirst very far above the lake level — thus giviuK' out the cold in-i flut-nce above referred to as peculiar to the south shore of tlie lakt- wJjen the northwest winds prevail: this cold in- fluence being most probably wafted fur U> the east and soutliward, producing, no doubt, an effect ou tlie weather alon^ the Atlantic coast several hundred miles to the southeast. The northwest winds which mostly prevail in the States of New York and I'eunsylvauia have a modiiied cliaracler, similar Uj tlie winds from the same quarter passing over the upper lakes of North America — affording a cool and bracing intluence on the liumau system. Another remarkable feature in the cU- mate of I^e Superior, is its healthy and j invigorating inthience on residents and inyalids sutfering from incipient pulrao- j nary and tliroat complaints — the sudden j changes of hot and cold, or wet weather, ' seem to brace the ct)nslitution. without ! producing any otlier injurious effects than ' rheumatism, when too much exposure is j endured. j While the balmy southern clime too I often disappoints the invalid, this north- ern climate, its influence extending west- ! ward toward the Rocky Mountains, seems i to give strength to the respiratory and j digestive organs — thereby often effecting , most miraculous and permanent cures, | witliout the aid of medicine, other than that afforded by nature — pure air and water. The intense ce regartled as surrounded by two oceans — one aerial tlie other liquid. By the laws which regulate two Huids thus relatively situated, a local di.stur- bance in the one would produce a corre- sponding disturbance in the other. Every rise or fall of one-twentieth of an inch in the mercurial colunm. would be attended with an elevation or depression in the surface of the water equal to one inch. A sudden change of the atmos- pheric pressure over a large body of wa- ter would cause a perpendicular rise or fall, in the manner of waves, greater tiian the mere weight itself, which would prop- agate themselves in a .series of undula- tions from the centre of disturbance. These undulations result from an unusual disturbance of the atmosphere occurring around the margin of the stoim, and its effects are perceived before the storm ac tually breaks. Rife and Full of the Wutern of Lake Superior. From a series of careful observations September, the surface of the lake level continued through a period of eight years, continues to rise constantly, about six from 1Sj4 to 18G2, by Dr. G. II. lilaker. of ' inches a moutli, until it gains, on an aver- Marquette, L.S., it has been found tliat the age, two feet by the middle of August; annual rise and fail of the surface of Lake ; — and by tlie tirst of SepWmber it begins Superior ranges between 20 and 2S inches. , to fall, and so continues through the win- From the hr.>'t of May, when the snow ter, until about the middle of April. The begins to melt freely, until the tirst of permanent rise, however, was found to 118 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. have been about two inches more than the fall for the first six years, from 1854 to end of 1859, thus making a total rise of some 12 inches in the lake level at the latter period. During the years 1860 and 1861, the waters of Lake Superior fell about two inches annually, making a fall of four inches since 1859, at which period they were at their highed poird. During the winter of 1861-'62, there fell at Marquette only four feet and two inches of snow, being about one-quarter the usual amount, — and for the spring months of 1862 there fell only five inches of moisture, being about one-half the usual quantity. These well-authenticated and singular facts, continued to July, 1862, show that the waters of Lake Superior at Marquette are twenty inches lower than they were in 1861 — thus showing an un- usual depression in the waters of this great inland sea. When thesfi interesting- observations shall have been extended over a longer period and at different stations, they will, no doubt, solve the mystery which has heretofore involved the annual and period- ical rise and faU of these great waters in obscurity. A careful survey of the great lakes by a corps of engineers attached to the Topo- graphical Bureau is now nearly comple- ted, which will give meteorological results and tidal observations of the greatest im- portance to the mariner, agriculturist, and intelhgent traveller. Marquette, the county seat of Mar- quette county, and a port of entry, is advan- tageouslv situated on the Bay of Marquette, in N. lat. 46^ 32', W. long. 87° 41'. The harbor is safe and commodious, being fully protected from all but northeast winds, when vessels are obliged to anchor in the bay for safety. Tlie settlement of Mar- quette was commenced in July, 1849, and incorporated as a village in June, 1859. It now contains a court-house and jail; 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Baptist, and 1 Roman Catholic church; 4 public-houses, the Marquette House and Tremont House being the most frequented by strangers; 2 printing-offices ; 15 or 20 stores and storehouses; besides a large number of machine-shops of different kinds. Population in 1860, 1,665. This flourishing town is identified with the iron-ore beds in the vicinity, being some 12 or 18 miles distant, situated on an elevated ridge being known as the Iron jlountain. Here are now three ore- beds extensively and profitably worked, being owned by the Jackson Iron Com- pan}", the Cleveland Iron Mining Compa- ny, and the Lake Superior Iron Company ; each of the above companies have sepa- rate docks, from which the ore is shipped to the Eastern markets. A railroad ex- tends from Marquette to the Lake Supe- rior mine, 18 miles, affording ample means for the transportation of iron ore to the place of shipment. The Pioneer Iron Works, situated near the Jackson Iron Mountain, is a large blast furnace giving employment to about 150 workmen. At CoUinsviUe, 3 miles from Marquette, is also a blast furnace employing about 100 hands. At Eorrestville, situated on Dead River, is another blast furnace. The Northern Iron Company, situated at CnocOLAT, 3 miles distant from Marquette, are new works of an extensive character, being largely engaged in the manufacture of pig-iron. In the village are two iron foundries for the manufocture of railroad car-wheels and other castings. The iron business now gives employ- ment to above 100 sail- vessels, besides several propellers. Steamers of a large class, during the season of navigation, i which usually lasts six months, arrive and j depart almost daily for Detroit, Cleveland, Milvvaukie, and Chicago, carrying freight j and passengers. EXCCRSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. 119 Carp and Dead rivers both flow into Lake Siij^erior near Marqiietto. on each side of which there are rapids and falls of great beauty, affording good water-power. Chocolate River also Hows into the lake Bomc two or three miles east of Mar- quette, but through a diflerout geological formation. The small streams in the vicinity abound and below us, on the lake Fbore, which are easily reached by sail-boat, are fre- quented by lovers of sixjrt, who always return with a good supply of trout. "Back in the country are the Esconawba River and Lake Michij^umie, both of which are within a comfortable day's journey from the terminus of the railroad. Tho scenery around this lake and along tho in speckled trout, v.iiilt- the lake is at most ' river is delightful, which, with the abun- Bcasons of the year alive with white-tish, | dance of lish to be taken tliere, well repays and the Mackinac trout of large dimeu- the trouble of the excursion." sions. weighing from 5 to 50 lbs. The ' climate of Marquette and its vicinity is celebrated for its purity and healtliy influ- ence, being the favorite resort of invalids and seekers of pleasure. Xegaunek is a new and tliriving settle- ment, situated on the line of the railroad, 12 miles from Marquette, and in the im- mediate vicinity of tho Iron Mountain. Here is a population of about 1,000 souls, being mostly engaged in working at the mines. Bay dc ]\4>qiiet and qiictte Kailroad. ]TIar- This road was commenced in 185.?. as a private company, by the late Herman B. Ely and his associates, and chartered in 185r>. under the title of the Iron Jlmin- Uiin Railroad; finished in 1857 to tho Lake Superior Iron Mine, 17 miles distant from Marquette; passing the JafMann Mine, 14 miles, and tlie Clerehmd Mine, 16 miles. In 1859 it was consolidated with tho Bay de Noquet and Marquette Railroad, which will be extended to the head of Little Bay de Noquet, situated on the north end of (jreen Bay, a total distance of 70 miles. When tiuished it will form a direct route, by means of railroad and .^teamcrs. to all the ports on (Jreen Bay and I>;ike Michi- gan. This road has a land grant from government of six sections of timhcred land for every mile constructed, amount- tenances and fine strings of 'speckled ing to 4 *J0 sections of 610 acres each, or trout.' ; 2<.8.800 acres, valued at $«;7'J,000. " A considerable quantity have been ta- 1 Thi.s is a well-constructed road as far ken about the rocky points that extend as finished, having an ascending grade intnvenient for tiio sport, and returning with satisfied coun excursions, and enjoying the luxury of 'camping out,' this country offers extra inducemouts. Various places, both above vessels engaged in tJiis growing and im- p«irtant trade. The amount carried over the road in 18G0, averaged about l,f.00 120 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. tons daily, during the season of naviga- tion. It has at the present time (1862) in use four first-class locomotives and 350 freight-cars, with a carrying capacity of 2,500 tons a day. On leaving Marquette the coast tends north-westward, passing Presque Isle and other bold headlands, the coast here pre- senting a rocky, iron-bound appearance for many mQes, with high hills in the distance, being elevated from 800 to 1,000 feet above the waters of the lake. Gkaxite Island, 15 miles north of Marquette, is passed on the right, having on one side two vertical walls of trap, 20 feet high and 12 apart, forming a secure boat harbor. On the mainland opposite is seen Granite Point, rising from 120 to 130 feet. Due North from tlie above island lies Sianard's Bock, a most danger- ous projection discovered by Captain Stanard in 1835, while in the employ of the American Fur Company, sailing the schooner John Jacob Astor. The rock may be seen on the direct route of steam- ers from Marquette to Mauitou Island or Copper Harbor. The Huron Isles, lying about 20 miles east of Portage Entry, numbering five or six rocky islands or islets, form a most picturesque group, covered in part with a stunted growth of trees. Huron Bay and Point Ajbbete are next passed, and the upward bound steam- er enters a large expanse of water caUed L' Ance, or Keweenaw Bay, extending far inland. L'Ance is an excellent harbor where is a small settlement, situated at the head of Keweenaw Bay. A short distance north are located a Roman Catholic and Metho- dist mission-house and church. The Cath- ohc being on the west shore of the Bay, and the Methodist on the east, both are | surrounded by Indian tribes and settle- ! ments. This locality, at no distant day, i must become an important point, being 1 favorably situated between the iron and oopper regions of Lake Superior. Portage Entry, 70 miles above Mar- quette, is an important port of entry, here being the mouth of the outlet to Portage Lake, where stands a Hght-house to guide the mariner. The land here is low and the shore un- interesting, except being hned with va- riegated sandstone, worked into almost every variety of shape by the action of water. The Entry and Ljike is an extensive and beautiful sheet of water, extending to within half a mile of the entire breadth of the peninsula of Keweenaw Point, in the county of Houghton, It receives a number of small streams, draining the rich copper region of Lake Superior. Xo portion of the south shore of Lake Supe- rior exceeds this lake and its vicinity as a resort for invalids. In the immediate vicinity of the lake are found rich deposits of copper, yield- ing great returns to the miner and capi- taUst. Houghton, the county seat of Hough- ton county, Michigan, and a port of entry, I is situated on the south side of Portage Lake, 14 mdes from Portage Entry, where I its waters commingle with Lake Superior. The harbor is laud-locked, being pro- tected by high hiUs on both sides. The settlement of Houghton was commenced in 1854, and incorporated as a village in 1861. It now contains a court-house and jail; 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, and 1 Ro- man Cathohc church; 5 public-houses, the Douglass House being a large and well-kept hotel; 10 stores, and several warehouses ; 2 steam saw-miUs, 2 brew- eries, and 2 large stamp-mills using steam power. The population of the town is estimated at 3,000, being mostly engaged in mining operations, while the general trade and lumbering aflbrd profitable em- ployment to those engaged in the latter pursuitvS. This new and fiourishuig town, EXCURSION ABOUND LAKE SUPERIOR. 121 lying on a side-hill rising 300 or 400 feet, is identilied with the cojjper mines in its immediate vicinity. There are several mines worked to u large extent, besides others of le.ss note which will, no duubt, soon be rendered productive. The min- eral range of Keweenaw Point, some 4 to 6 miles in width, extends tlirough all tliis section of country, being as yet only partially exi)lored. The Isle Royal. Hu- ron, anil Portage, arc the principal mines worked on tlie south side of the lake. Pt)RT.\GE Lake is an irregular body of water about 20 miles in length, extend- ing nearly across Keweenaw Point to within 2 miles of Lake Superior. Steam- ers and sail-vessels drawing 12 feet can pass through Portage Entry, and navi- gate the lake with safety. This bcnly of water was an old and favorite tliorough- fare for the Indians, anil the Jesuit Fa- thers who tirst discovered and explored this section of country. A canal of two miles in lengtli would render this portage route navigable for steamers and sail- vessels navigating Lake Superior, there- by reducing tlie di.-^tance over 100 miles. During the winter m(«nthstlie atmosphere id very clear and transparent in the vi- cinity of Houghton, and all through Ke- weenaw Point; objects can bo seen at a great distance of a clear day, while sounds are conveyed distinctly through the at- mo^phere. presenting a phenomenon pe- ciUiar to all northern latitudes. This is the season of health and pleasure to the permanent resident.s. Hancock, Houghton county, Michi- gan, is situated on the north side of Port- ago Lake, opposite to the village of Hough- ton, witli which it is connected by a steam ferry. The town was lirst laid out in 1^5^^, and now contains about 4,000 in- habitant.H, including the niitiing popula- tion on tlio n«)rth side of the lake; its sudden rise and prosj><.rity being identi- tiod with the rich dej^osit of native copper, in which this section of country abound.s. Tlie site of the village is on a side-hill rising from the lake level to a height of about 500 feet, whore the oi)oning to the mines is situated. Here is 1 Congrega- tional, 1 Metliodist, and 1 Roman Cathulic church ; 3 public-houses, the Miison Ilouat being a well-kept hotel; a number of stores and warehouses, 1 steam saw-mill, 1 barrel-factory, 1 foundry and machine- shop, and other manufacturing establish- ments; also, in the vicinity are 4 exten- sive steam stamping-mills worked by the diflTerent mining companies. The I'urlage lAike ^meitiu'j Wurhs is an incorporated company, turning out annually a large amount of pure merchantable copper. The business of the company consists of fusing and converting the mineral into refined metid for man ufiictu ring purposes. The Quincy, Hancock, Pewabic, and Franklin mines are situated on tlie north ' side of the lake, on elevated ground, being I now in active operation, giving einploy- I mcnt to alx)ut 1,800 operatives. The suc- I ccssful working of these mines by means ' of improved machinery, in connection with the smelting works, will, no doubt, give : profitable employment to thousands of I miners and laborers, thereby rendering ' this locality the great copper mart of this region, the pure metal being shipped to the Eastern market during the season of navigation. Keweenaw Point* is a large extent of laud jutting out into Lake Superior, ; from 10 to 25 miles wido and about GO miles in length. This section of country for upward of 100 miles, running from southwest to northeast, abounds in silver ♦ " On many maps Bpolled Kexrff^traiicona. and otherwis*.". rroiiuunctil by our Indian*, *Ki-Hl- wal-non-iiiji,' now writtt-n and jimiKiuuccd as above ; meaning a portatrt-, or placo wht-rc a jM»rl- ape is made — the whole distunct- of Boinu i-i^rhtj or ninety miles ar«>und ihe Point belnjf saved bv enterint: Portape Lake and tollowinj: up a Mimll stream, leavinir a portjitre of only about a h:df !nili- Ut IjUve Superior «)n the other bide." — Fot- ttr >iuU \i\'liitncy» licpurt. 122 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. and copper ores, yielding immense quan- tities of" the latter; much of it being pure native copper, but often in sucli large masses as to render it almost impossible to be separated for the purpose of trans- portation, Masses weighing from 1,000 to 5,000 pounds are often sent forward to the Eastern markets. The geological formation is very interesting, producing Bpecimens of rare beauty and much value. Manitou Island hes off Keweenaw Point, on which is a light-house to guide the mariner to and from Copper Harbor. The island is about 7 miles in length and four wide. Copper Harbor, Mich., is situated near the extreme end of Keweenaw Point, in N. lat. 47'' 30', W. long. 88° 00'; the har- bor, although somewhat difficult to enter, is one of the best on Lake Superior, being distant 250 miles from the Saut Ste. Marie. The settlement contains about 200 inhabi- tants, a church, a hotel, and two or three stores. Fort Wilkins, formerly an U. S. military post, has been converted into a hotel,' being handsomely situated on Lake Fanny Hoe, about half a mile distant from the steamboat landing. In the vicin- ity are copper mines which have been extensively worked, and are well worthy of a visit. Agate Harbor, 10 miles west of Cop- per Harbor, is the name of a small settle- ment. This port is not as yet much fre- quented by steamers. Eagle Harbor, 1G miles west of Cop- per Harbor, is a good steamboat landing. Here are two churches, a good public- house, together with several stores and storehouses. Population about 700, be- ing mostly engaged in mining. The Central, Copper, Falls, Pennsylvania, and Amygdaloid are the principal working copper mines. Eagle River Harbor and Village, eight miles further, are favorably situated at the mouth of a stream of the same name. Here are two churclies, a well-kept hotel. [ four stores and several storehouses. Pop- ulation 800, This is a thriving settlement, it being the ouiport of the celebrated Cliff, or Pittsburgh and Boston, and otlier mines. The copper found in this vicinity is of the purest quality, where is found silver in small quantities, some of the specimens being highly prized. Off tliis harbor the lamented i)r. Houghton Avas drowned, October, 1845, while engaged in exploring this section of country : Ke- weenaw Point and adjacent country be- ing very appropriately named Houghton "County in honor of his memory. On the north side of Keweenaw Point bold shores extend to near Ontonagon, with high lands in the distance, forming the rich copper range of this region. Oaitonag^on, Ontonagon Co., Mich., 336 miles from the Saut Ste. Marie, is advan- tageously situated at the mouth of the river of the same name. The river is about 200 feet wide at its mouth, with a sufficient depth of water over the bar for large steamers. Here is being erected an extensive pier and breakwater. The village contains an Episcopal, a Presby- terian, and a Roman Catholic church ; two good hotels, the Bigelow House and John- son House; two steam saw-miUs, and ten or twelve stores and storehouses, and about 1,200 inhabitants. In this vicinity are located the Minne- sota, the National, the Rockland, and several other very productive copper mines. The ore is found from twelve to fifteen miles from the landing, being im- bedded in a range of high hills traversing Keweenaw Point from N. E. to S. W. for about 1 00 miles. Silver is here found in small quantities, beautifully intermixed with the copper ore, which abounds in great masses. A good plank road runs from Ontona- gon to near the Adventure Mine, and other mines, some twelve or fourteen mdes distant, where conm)ences the cop- per range of hilla. A small steamer also EXCTRSION Aliui > nms on Ontonagon River to near the Minnesota and National Mines, where is a riourisliing settlement inhabited by miners. The Ontonagon Hirer is thus beautifully described by Roueiit Alan, Esq., To tlic Oiitoiiu{;€»ii Kivei. Sweet river, on thy silvery title The iwMe warriors no more elide; Alon^ tny wild und wooded shore Their kindling wateh-flres Maze no nion-. Where'er thou roanfst \>y dale or hill Thy banks are silent now und still. As if thy waves, since time be;r.in, Had ne'er heeiit wo-.-a. Flow on. thou t;entle river, llow Through summers rain and winter s snow ; May Indian war-whoops no more wako Thy echofs. us thou seek'st the lake, Kul i>eaoeful lovers by thy stream On future joys and pleasures dream. St. Anurkw. ) I.AKK SUPERIOR. 123 IN>|>iilnfioii of Ontoiia:: on Coiiiily, IMOO. Towns, «kc M:iles. Females. ToUl. Alj^onqiiin, 46 31 77 Flint Steel, 20 10 30 (rrecnland, 105 67) 57 f 296 Maple Grovo, 67 Minnesota, er.o 184 844 National, 246 90 3:;6 Nebraska, 34 •22 56 Ouxouiv^on, 650 493 1,14S Peuabie, 71 38 109 Rockland, 187 95 2S2 Rockland Mine, 206 47 253 Rosendale, 344 251 595 Superior, 15 9 24 Web.ster, 201 79 340 Williamsburg, 68 30 98 Total, 4,48S The Porcupine ^^ouNTAIN. lying some 15 or 20 miles west of Ontonaj^on, is a bold headland that can distinctly be seen at a great distance, rising some 1,300 feet above the lake surface. Litikc Superior Copper ^fliiiiiig; CoiiipuiiieN. N-ime. ADVENTfKE,* Albany A Boston, f Amygdaloid,^ Aztec,* Bohemian,* Caledonia.* Carp Lakh,* Centra L.jt Clarke,*! Copper FaliaJ Eaolk River,^ Evergreen Ullff,* Flint Steel River,* FRANKLlN.f Garden City,§ Agent Thos. W. Buzzo, A. H. Wood, A. C. Davis. Thos. W. Ruzzo, Wm. E. Dickenson, Mr. Burgess, C. B. Petrie, Wni. Kirby, John Usen, E. C Roberts, E. C. Roberts, J. H. Foster, G. W. GatiBS, President C. G. Hussey, Horatio Bi^relow, George L. (.)hver, C. G. Ilussev, W. R. Gritli'th, T. F. Ma.son, Fayette Brown, J. L Mott, Horatio Bigolow, A. W. Sprncer, F. E. Eldred, Charles E. Smith, Jerome Merriit, John M. Wilson* Office. Pittsburgh, Pa.. Boston, Mass. Pliiladclphia. Pittsburgh, Pa. New York. New York. Cleveland, Ohio. Kew^ York. Paris, France. Boston. Mass. Boston, Mass. New York. ho.«;ton, Mass. ( hica.vro. III. 124 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Name, Hancock, f Hilton,* Huron, f Isle Royale,! Indiana, Knowlton,* Manhattan, Mandan,T[ MESNAED,f Michigan,^ Minnesota,* National,* Norwich,* Oglma,* Petherick,:}: Pennsylvania,:}: Pewabic,! Agent. Jonathan Cox, C. M. Sanderson, Collom, C. F. Eschweiler, C. M. Sanderson, J. F. Blandy, A. B. Wood, Jacob Houghton, Jr, A. B. Wood, J. B. Townsend, Wm. Webb, E. C. Roberts, Wm. W. Spalding, John Usen, S. W. HiU, J. H. Foster, President. A. Shurtleff, T. F. Mason, Wm. Haywood, T. H. Perkins, Wm. Harris, W. J. Gordon, E. H. Rickard, George L. Ohver, , Horatio Bigelow, T. F. Mason, Wm. Pearsall, A. H. Center, Office. New York. New York. Boston, Mass. Boston, Mass. Cleveland, Ohio. New York. Philadelphia. Boston, Mass. New York. New York. Pittsburgh, Pa. New York. Horatio Bigelow, Boston, Mass. Jos. G. Henszey, Philadelphia. Wnham Haywood, Boston, Mass. Pittsburgh & Boston (Cliff), g Phoenix, § PONTIAC,f Portage, f QuiNCY.f Rockland,* Star,^ South SiDE,f Superior,* Tremont,* To:-tel,* Victoria,* James Watson, 0. A. FarweU, Jacob Houghton, Jr, C. C. Douglass, S. S. Robinson, J. B. Townsend, L. W. Clarke, C. F. EschweQer, J. B. Townsend, Henry Buzzo, C. G. Hussey, - John Jackson, ., Horatio Bigelow, Thos. W. Lockwood, Thomas F. Mason, Samuel J. W. Barry, Thomas H. Perkins, WiUiam Hickok, Jerome Merritt, L. W. Clarke, Jerome Merritt, Pittsburgh, Pa. Boston, Mass. Boston, Mass. Detroit, Mich. New York. New York. Boston, Mass. Boston, Mass. New York. Boston, Mass. Boston, Mass. Boston, Mass. Outports. ♦Ontonagon, f Portage Lake. :}: Eagle Harbor. § Eagle River. ^ Copper Harbor. La Pointe, 11 miles west of Ontonagon, situated on the south end of Madeline Island, the largest of the Apostle Inlands, is one of the oldest settlements on Lake Superior ; it was first peopled by the French Jesuits and traders in IQSO, being 420 miles west of the t>aut Ste. Marie, which was settled about the same time. The mainland and islands in this vicinity have been for many ayts the favorite abode of the American Indian, now lin- gering and fading away as the country is being opened and settled by tho white race. The village now contains 300 inhabi- tants, most of whom are lialf-broeds and French. Here is an old Roman Cathohc cliurch, and one Methodist church ; 2 ho- tels, 2 stores, and several coopering estab- lishments for the making of tisli-barrels. EXCURSION AROUND LAKE StTERIOR, 125 The harbor and steamboat landing are on the Pouth end of the island, where may uswnlly be seen fishing-boats and other crafl navigatiu},' this part of Lake Superior. Wheat, rye, barley, oata peas, potatoes and other vegetal)Ie3, are raised in large quantities. Apples, cherries, gooseberries and currents are raised in the gardens at La Pointe. The wild fruits are plums, cran- berries, strawberries, red raspberries, and whortleberries. The prineipiJ forest-trees on the islands are raaj)le. pine, hemlock, birch, poplar, and cedar trees. B.w FIELD, capital of La Pointe Co., Wis., is favorably situated on the southern shore of Lake Superior, 80 miles east of i its western terrainu.s, and 3 miles west of | La Pointe, being 80 miles west of (Jnton- ' agon. The harbor is secure and capa-' ciouH, being protected by the Apostle ; Islands, lying to the northeast. The town plot rises from 60 to 80 feet above i the waters of the lake, affording a splen- ! did view of the bay, the adjacent islands ! and headlands. Its commercial advan- j tages are surpassed by no other point on Lake Superior, being on the direct route to St. Paul, Minn., and the Upjxjr Missis- sippi. Here are situated a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic church; 2 hotels. 4 stores, 2 warehouses, 1 steam saw-mill and several mechanics' shops. Population in 1800, 300. The Hudson and Baijjkld Railroad, 164 miles in length, has been surveyed and will most probably be completed within a few years, there being a favorable land grant conceded to the company. This will afford a speedy route to St. Paul and other ports on the Missi.>*8ipi)i River. La PorxTE B.\y, on the west side of which is situated the port of Bayfiehi is a large and safe body of water, being pro- tected from winds blowing from every point of the compass. The shores of the inlands and m.iinland are bold, while the harbor affords good anchorage for the whole fleet of the lakes. The Indian Agency for the Chipfewa tribe of Indians residing on the borders of Lake Superior, have their ]n'add as occupying the space between Chagwamegon Bay and Brute River. They are composed of drift-hill.s and red clay, resting on sand- stone which is occasionally visible. In the lapse of ages, the winds, waves, and cur- 126 ilfelP THROUGH THE LAKES. rents of the lakes cut away channels in these soft materials, and finally separated the lowest parts of the promontory into islands, and island-rocks, now twenty- three in number, which are true outUers of the drift and sandstone. " At a distance they appear like main- land, with deep bays and points, gradually becoming more elevated to the westward. ^ He au Chene,^ or Oak /^Zanfi, which is next the Detour (or mainland), is a pile of detached drift, 250 or 300 feet high, and is the highest of the group. Made- line, ' Wau-ga-ba-me' Island, is the lar- gest (on which lies La Pointe), being 13 miles long, from northeast to southwest, and has an average of 3 miles in breadth. "Muk-quaw" or Bear Island, and "Esh- quagendeg" or Outer Llands, are about equal in size, being six miles long and two and a half wide. '' They embrace in all, an area of about 400 square miles, of which one-half is water. The soil is in some places good, but the major part would be dithcult to clear and cultivate. The causes to which I have referred, as giving rise to thickets of evergreens along the coasc of the lake, operate here on all sides, and have covered almost the whole surface with cedar, birch, aspen, hemlock, and pine. There are, however, patches of sugar-tree land, and natural meadows. " The waters around the islands afford excellent white fish, trout, and siskowit, which do not appear to diminish after many years of extensive fishing for the lower lake markets. For trout and sis- kowit, which are caught with a line in deep water, the best ground of the neighborhood is ofif Bark Point or ' Point Ecorce' of the French. Specified or brook trout are also taken in all the small streams. " That portion of the soil of the islands fit for cultivation, produces potatoes and all manner of garden vegetables and roots in great luxuriance. In the flat wet parts, both the soil and climate are favor- able to grass ; and the crop is certain and stout. Wheat, oats, and barley do well on good sod when well cultivated. "In regard to health, no portion of the continent surpasses the Apostle Islands. In the summer months they present to the residents of the South the most cool and delightful resort that can be imagined, and for invalids, especially such as are afiected in the lungs or liver, the uniform bracing atmosphere of Lake Superior pro- duces the most surprising and beneficial effects." Healthy Iiifluence Superior. of Lake Xo better evidence can be given of the healthy climate of the Lake Superior re- gion than the following extracts from let- ters, written by well-known individuals : "Bayfield, July 28th, 1860. ^^I>ear Sir: — Perhaps it would be inter- esting to you to state, in a few words, the happy eflects that this chmate has pro- duced for me. "Previous to my coming here I consulted with three physicians in Philadelphia, one in the central part of Pennsylvania, one in "Washington, D. C, and one in Georgetown, D. C. It was the opinion of aU that consumption was tightening her grasp upon me, and that soon I would be laid in the grave. Under medical advice I made use of an inhaling apparatus, drank cod-Uver oil and wliiskey, but all without any beneficial results. Through the ad- vice of friends, and in hopes of saving my life, I came to this place, June Gth, 1857, bringing with me three gallons of cod- liver oil and three gallons of old rye whiskey. This bracing atmosphere seem- ed to give mo immediate relief, and in a short time it seemed as if a heavy load EXCURSION AROUND LAKE BUPKKIOR. 127 was removed from my chest. I used the cod-liver oU in feed for younj? chickens and greasing my boots, and pave the mo.-it of the whiskey away. I am now (three year?* after my arrival here) enjoy- ing excellent health. •* Respectfully vuurs, •' J. n. N." Brokchial, or Throat Disease, Rev. W L resided in Malonf*. Franklin county. New York, duriuj^ the year 1850, where he first wa.s troubled by the hronrhud du^etise, which led to bleed- ing of the throat. From Malone he re- moved to Fairfield county. Connecticut, in 1852, near Ix)ng Island Sound, where the disease increased in virid^'uce.as.suminpan alarming char^ter. In 1855 he removed to Syracuse, New York, where he con- tracted a remittent fever, without being benetite-i in regard to his throat disease. In 1858 he visited Europe for the benefit of his health, without his throat disease being benefited, although ho improved in general health. \n August. 1859, he removed to Eagle River. Micliigan, situ- ated on the south .shore of Lake Superior, where he gradually improved in healtli ; but on moving a few miles in the interior, near one of the cop|)er mines, his health rapidly improved, and a permanent cure was effected, as he supposes, by pure and bracing air — for which this whole section of country is justly celebrated. Dat'jd on board steamer North Star, Julv, 1860. On proceeding from La Pointe west- ward, the steamer usually passes around Point de Tour, ten miles north, and enters Fond du Ljic, a noble bay situated at tiie head of Lake Superior. It may be said to bo 50 mdes l<»ng and 20 milea wide, abounding in good fiahing-grouuds. Snpcrior, or Superior City, Douglass county, Wisconsin, is most advantageous- ly situated on a bay of Superior, at the west end of the lakt\ near the mouth of St. Louis River. Hire are a church, two hotels, and t<.Mi or fifteen stores and store- houses, and aJx)ut 1,000 inhabitants. A small river, called the Nemadji, runs through Superior, and enters into St. Louis Bay. Perhaps no place on Lake Superior has commercial advantages equal to this town ; its future is magnified al- most Ix'yond conception. The *S7. Croix and Superior liailrocul is proposed lo ter- minate at this pla?^, extending south- ward to Hudson, on the St. Croix lUver, about 140 miles. Another railroad ia pro- posed to extend westward to the Sa k Rapids, on the Upper Mississippi, either from tliis place or Portland, Minn. DISTASCBS FROM FOND PL* LAC TO BT. PAUL, JflNIf. Fond i»u Lac (St Louis liivcr) Mile«. Pukiiffetua. (fortune) 75 Falls 8t. Ckoix (t '(/«<><') 40 115 Marine Mills, (.^YMWji/fKiO 19 134 Stillwater. " 11 145 .St. I'ArL {Stage) IS 168 Distance from Superior City to St. Cloud (Sauk Rapids), by proi.)osed rail- road route, 120 miles. St. Cloud to St. Paul, 76 miles. Total, 19G miles. DISTANCE8 FBOM SUPIRIOB CITY TO PEMBI.VA, MIWII. Si I'EKIOR Mileft. i'KOW W I.VG 80 UtUrTail L.iko 70 150 i:iie iJiver 74 224 San.l Hills Hivt-r... 70 294 (Jraiul Fork (lied Kiver) 40 *U Pembina sO 414 From St. Puul to IVmbiua, via Crow Wing, 4(>4 m. FoxD DU Lac, St. Louis county, Minn., is situated on St. Louis Kiver, 20 miles above its entrance into Lake Sui>erior. Ves.sels of a Iarj;e class ascend to this i>lace, being within four miles of the St. Louis Falls, Itaving a descent of about 60 feet afford- ing an immense water-iK)wer. Here are sandstone and slate (juarrios, from which 128 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Btone and slate are quarried, and exten- sively used for building purposes. Iron and copper ore abound in the vicinity. These advantages bid fair to make this point a mart of commerce and manufac- ture. St. Louis River, flo-^ing into the S. "W. end of Lake Superior, is a large and im- portant stream, and is navigable for steam- ers and lake craft for upward of 20 miles from its mouth. Above the falls (where the water has a descent of 60 feet, pre- senting a beautiful appearance), the river is navigable for canoe^ and small craft for about 80 miles farther. This river is the recipient of the waters of several small lakes lying almost due north of its outlet, its head waters flowing south from near Rainy Lake. Portland, St. Louis county, Minn., ad- vantageously situated at the extreme west end of Lake Superior, seven miles N. W. from Superior City, is a place of growing importance, where is a good steamboat landing, with bold shore. This is the cap- ital of the county, and bids fair to be a successful competitor with Superior City for the carrying trade of the Great West and Pacific coast. Along the shore of the lake northward are to be seen bold sandy bluffs and highlands, supposed to be rich in mineral wealth. Bellville, Minn., is a new settlement, situated on the lake shore, 4 or 5 miles north of Portland. Clifton, St. Louis Co., Minn., situated 11 miles N. E. of the head of Lake Superior, is a new settlement. In the vicinity are rich copper mines and good farming lands. BucuANAN is another new settlement, situated northeast of CUfton, possessing similar advantages. Burlington is a new settlement, situ- ated near Agate Bay. Encampment is the name of a river, island, and village, where is a good har- bor, the mouth of the river being pro- *-^^*-ed by the island. On the river, near its entrance into the lake, are falls afford- ing fine water-power. Cliffs of green- stone are to be seen, rising from 200 to 300 feet above the water's edge, presenting a handsome appearance. To the north of Encampment, along the lake shore, abound porphyry and greenstone. This locality is noted for a great agitation of the mag- netic needle; the depth of water in the vicinity is too great for vessels to anchor ; the shores being remarkably bold, and in some places rising from 800 to 1,000 feet above the water. Hiawatha is another new settlement, situated on the west shore of Lake Su- perior, where are found copper ore and other valuable minerals, precious stones, etc. Beater Bat, on the N. "W. lake shore, at the mouth of Beaver River, affords a good harbor, where is a small settlement. Grand Portage, Minn., advantageously situated on a secure bay, near the mouth of Pigeon River, is an old station of the American Fur Company. Here are a Ro- man Catholic Mission, a block-house, and some 12 or 15 dwelhngs. Mountains from 800 to 1,000 feet are here seen rising ab- ruptly from the water's edge, presenting a bold and subhme appearance. PiGBON Bay and River f5rms the north- west boundary between the United States and Canada, or the Hudson Bay Compa- ny's territory. Pigeon River is but a second-class stream, and by its junction with Arrow River continues the boundary through Rainy Lake and River to the Lake of the Woods, where the 49th degree of north latitude is reached. The mouth of Pigeon River is about 48 degrees north latitude, and 89 degrees 30 minutes west from Greenwich. Along the whole west shore of Lake Superior, from St. Louis River to Pigeon River, are alternations of metamorphosed schists and sandstone, with volcanic grits and other imbedded traps and porphyry, with elevations rising from 800 to 1,200 EXCURSION AROUND LAKE BUI'EUIUK. 129 fe*»t nbove the lake, often presenting a gnimi fippeanmeo. ISLB KoYALK, Iloughtou Co., Mich., be- ing about 45 miles in lengtii froin X. K. to S. W., anoiindin^ in copper ore and other min.'rals, and al.««o precious stones. Tiio principal hur- Ijor and only sc-itlemeut is on Siakowit B.UJ, being on the east shore of tlie island, about .')0 miles distant from Eagle Harbor, on the main sliore of Michigan. Tiio other harbors are — Washington Harbor on the southwest. Todd's Harbor on the west, and Rock Harbor and Cliij)- United States and tlio British Possessions (north hititudo 48°), we find the eastern portion of the peninsula abounds with !>old rocky cUfts, consisting of trap and red trraiiite. " The Falls of Pigeon River, eighty or ninety feet in height, are occasioned by a trap dyke which cuts through a series of slate rocks highly indurated, and very similar in mineralogical characters to the old graywa<-ke group. Trap dykes and interlanilnated masses of traps were ob- served in the slate near the falls. " The base of nearly all the ridges and cliffs between Pigeon liiver and Fort Wil- pewa Harljor on the northeast part of | liam (situated at the mouth of Kamiuiste- the island.^ In some places on the west I quoi River, the western boundary of Up- are perpendicular clilVs of green-stone, ^ per Canada) is made up of these slates, very bold, rising from the water's edge, ; and the overlaying trap. Some of the low- while on the eastern shore conglomerate ! islands exhibit only the gray grits and rock or coarse sandstone abounds, with [ slates. Welcome islands, in Thun»ler Bay, occasional stony beach. On this coast , display no traps, although, in the distance, are many islets and rocks of sandstone, they rosenible igneous products, the joints rendering navigation somewhat danger- ons. Good fishing-grounds abound all around this island, which will, no doubt, before many years, become a favorite sunmier resort for the invalid and sports- man, as well as the scientific tourist. SiSKOwiT Lake is a considerable body of water lying near the centre of the island, which apparently has no outlet. Other small l^es and picturesque inlets and bays abound in all parts of the island. Hills, rising from ;;0() to 400 feet above the water.s of the lake, exist in many localities throughout the island, whic is indented by bays and inlets. IVortherii Nh€»rc of Luke ISii- perior. Extract from Report on the (JfoUxjy of the Lake Superior CoutUry.'by Foster ami Whitney : NORTiiERN SuoRE, — " Beginning at with a sheet of trapjKjau rocks three Luu- Pigeon Bay, the boundary between the i dred feet in thickness. 1) being more obvious than the jtlanes of stratification, tlius giving a rude semi- columnar aspect to the cliffs, ''At Prince's Bay, and also along the chain of Islands which lines the coast, in- cluding Spar, Victoria, and Pie islands, the slates with the crowning traps are admira- bly displayed. At the British and Nortli American Company's works the slates aro traver.sed by a heavy vein of c^c-spar and amethystine quartz, yielding gray s'll- phuret and pyritous copper and galena. From the vein where it cuts the overlay- ing trap on the main shore, considerable silver has been extracted, "At Thunder Cape, the slates form one of the most picturesque headlands on the whole coast of Lake Superior. They aro made up of variously colored beds, such as compose the upper group of Mr. Logan, and repose in a nearly horizontal position. These d«trital rocks attain a thickness of nearly a thou.^and feet, and are crowned 130 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. "At L'Anse a la Bouteille (opposite the Slate Islands, on the north shore of •Lake Superior) the slates reappear, with the granite protruding through them, and occupy the coast for tifteen miles; numer- ous dykes of greenstone, bctiring east and west, are seen cutting the rocks vertically. The Slate Islands form a part of this group, and derive their name from their geologi- cal structure. ''They are next seen, according to Mr. Logan, for about seven miles on each side of the Old Pick River. Near Otterhead a gneissoidal rock forms the coast, which presents a remarkably regular set of strata in which the constituents of sienite are arranged in thin sheets and in a higlily crystalline condition. From this point to the Michipicoteu River the slates and granite occujiy alternate reaches, along the coast, for the distance of fifty miles. ' With the exception of a few square miles of the upper trap of gargautua, these two rocks appear to hold the coast all the way to the vicinity of Pointe aux Mines, at the extremity of which the\ separate from the shore, maintaining a nearly straight south- easterly line across the Batchewanung Bay, leaving the trap of Mamainse between them and the lake. Thence they reach the north- ern part of Croulais Bay, and finally attain the promontory of Gros Cap, where they constitute a moderately bold range of hills, running eastwardly toward Lake Huron.' "* Fislierie§ of Lake Superior. Good fishing-grounds occur all along the north sliore of Lake Superior, afford- ing a bountiful supply of white-fish, Mack- inac trout, and many other species of the finny tribe. On the south slior» there are fisheries at White-Fish Point, Grand * Caaadian Kci)ort, lS16-'-lT. Island, near the Pictured Rocks, Kewee- naw Point, La Pointe, and Apostles' Islands, and at different stations on Isle Royale, where large quantities are taken and exported; but there are no reliable statistics as to the number of men em- ployed or the number of barrels exported. Between the liead of Keweenaw Point and the mouth of the Ontonagf^n River, considerable quantities of fish are taken, for which there is a ready market at tlie mining stations. In addition to the whit« fish and Mackinac trout, the siskowit ia occasionally taken. Its favorite resort, however, is the deep water in the vicinity of Isle Royale. Lake Superior Trout-Fishing in Win- ter, — Tiie Lake Superior Journal says: " Angling through the ice to a depth of thirty fathoms of water is a novel mode of fishing somewhat pecuhar to this pecu- liar region of the world. It is carrying the war into lishdom with a vengeance, and is denounced, no doubt, in the com- munities on the bottom of these northern lakes as a scaly piece of warfare.' The large and splendid salmon-trout of these waters have no peace; in the summer they are enticed into the deceitful meshes of the gill-net, and in the winter, when they hide themselves in the deep caverns of the lakes, with fifty fathoms of water above their heads, and a defence of ico two or three feet in thickness on the top of tliat, they are tempted to destruction by the fatal hook. " Large numbers of these trout are caught every winter in this way on Lake Superior ; the Indian, always skilled in the fishing business, knows exactly whore to find them' and how to kill them. The whites make excu.sions out on the lake in pleasant weather to enjoy this sport. There is a favorite resort for both fish and fish.erraen near Gros Cap, at the entrance of Lake Superior, through tlio rocky gate- way between Gros Cap and Point Irocjuois, about 18 miles above the Saul, and many KXCUK8ION AROUND LAKE SLPKKloR. 131 a largo trout, at tliis point, is pulled up from its warm bed at the lx»ttom of the lake, in winter, and niu 1sj.V) ProiH'Iler -M<»nticclU)... .3tUKM) lu.mw lj>5l Sellir IVninsulu 1S,IKH1 1'2.fllcTB. L. Webb 50,(HM) 1.\(MJ0 KjiJ Prr.5U.<«W 25.000 1S57 Propeller Indiuna 8,000 2,500 ISM ♦.•}«5dOO0 $1-25,000 —making a grand toUl oi|4y 1.000. Since the above Table was compiled the following losses have occurred in the Lake Superior trade; Steamer Arctic, wrecked on Lake Supe- rior, June, 18G0. Steamer Gazelle, wrecked on Lake Su- perior, 1860. Steauier Elgin, lost on Lake Micliigan, September 7, ISGO. Steamer North Star, burnt at Cleveland, Februar}'. 1862. The loss of life by the accidents given above is, as near as can be ascertained, as follows : — Schooner Merchant 18 Propeller Independence 3 Steamer K. K. Collins 20 Steamer Superior 54 Steaujur La<.ly Elgin. 350 Total 445 There have been numerous losses of freight by je tisons and otherwise, that are not included in the table we have given, — and, what is rather singular, al- most the whole o( the jettisons and losses of hulls aud cargoes have occurred while the vessels have been upward bound. D<.troit AdicrU>er. 132 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Tlie Lewa tribe. The whole north shore. as seen from the deck of the steamer, pre- sents a bold and grand appearance, while in the distance, westward, may be seen the broad waters of Lake Superior. Taquamexon Bay is next entered, which is about '25 miles long and as many Itroad, terminating at White- Fish Point, -io miles above Saut Ste. Marie. Parisiex Island is passed itO miles from the Saut, lying near the middle fif the above bay, being attached to Canada. Sandy Islands, lying off Ritcheeioaxm- une approached when the winds are i not boisterou-s. I Lizard Island and Leach Island, some 10 miles farther northward, are next pass- , ed. lying contiguous to the mainland. Cape Gargantua, 40 miles north of I Mamainse. is a bold headland. On the south side is a harbor protected by a small island. From this cai>e to the ishuid of Miehipic iten the distance is about 30 miles. MicHiHicoTEN Harbor, and River, 110 miles north of the Saut Ste. Marie, situated in N. lat. 47" 5G', W. long. 85^ UG . aflords a safe anchorage, being surrounded by high hills. Here is established a Roman Catliolic mis.sion. and an important Hud- son Bay Company's post, from whence diverges the river and portage route to James's Bay, some 35o miles distant. The shore of the I^ake here lends westward toward otter IhiuL about 50 miles distant, presenting a hold and rugged appearance. This i>ost. no doubt, is destined to become a place of resort as well as a con;merci;J dep<*jt, from whence is now distributed the merchandise belonging to the above gig-an- tic company — having exclu.« northward, but they are now nearly all abandoned. A surve^-ing party, however, are now (1800) eu^-aged in explorin;^ the north sliore of Lake Superior, under the authority of the Provincial Parliament, in order to be able to report in regard to the mineral region. Tlie northwest borders of the lake, and in particular the Island of St. Ignace, Black Bay, Thunder Cape, Pie Island, and the vicinity of Prince's Bay are supposed to be rich in both copper and silver. Splen- did cry stalhzat ions of amethystine ([uartz and calc spar have been obtained on Spar Island, near Prince's Bay, and at other localities. Fort "William, an important Iludson Bay Company's Post, is advantageously eituati'd at the mouth of the Kaministi- quia River, in north latitude 4S degrees 23 minutes, west longitude 8'.« degrees 21 minutes. Here is a convenient wharf and .safe harbor, the bar ofl' the mouth of tli'» river alfording 7 or 8 feet of water, which con easily be increased by dredg- ! ing. The Company's buildings consi'-t of a spacious dwelling-house, a store, and 3 storehouses, besides some 10 or 12 Idu.scs i f(»r the accommi)d;ition of the attaches, and servants in the employ of the al-ove ! gigantic company. The land is cleared 1 for a considerable dir>tanoo on both Bides of the river, presenting a tlirifty and fer- tile appearance. Wheat, rye, oats, bar- ley, potatoes, and most kinds of vegeta- bles are here raised in abundance ; also, grass and clover of ditVerent kinds. The early frosts aro the great hindrance to this whole section of cmiitry, which is rich in minerals, timl>cr, furs, and lish; altogether i)roducing a great source of wealth to the abovi' company. Pine, spruce, hemlock, cypress, and balsam trees are common, also white birch, sugar- maple, elm, and ash, together with some hardy fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. The Human Cuth'>l,c Mission, situateil 2 miles above the company's post, on tlu opposite side of the river, is an interest- ing locality. Here is a Krhout 40(»,f water into this preat inland lake. It is elevated about 700 feet above Hudson Bay, and di.scharges its surplus waters through Xtlson liner, a large and magnificent stream, which like the St. L:iwrence is lilled with Lslauds and numerous rapid.s, •Lak« lUiKAU the most extensive boily of frt-.sh water on the Ka.sttTii C'oniinent, »itnat.-uiit:iii(S. Th.- Ynti- Mi, lis outlet, Jlows north into the Arctic Ocean. 140 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. preventing navigation entirely below Cross Lake. Lakes Manitobah and Winnipegosis, uni- ted, are nearly of the same length as Win- nipeg, lying 40 or 50 miles westward. Nearly the whole country between Lake Winnipeg and its western rivals is occu- pied by smaller lakes, so that between tlie valley of the Assiniboine and the eastern shore of Winnipeg fully one-third is under water. These lakes, both large and small, are shallow, and in the same water area sliow much uniformity in depth and coast line. lotent as the East India Company, it is still a powerful combination, .vlunvering opulence on its members, and retleciing a y)eculiar feature in the stren^rth and gran- deur of the British empire — a power which, to use the eloquent langu.ige of Daniel Webster, ' has dotted over the whole sur- face of the globe witli her p>o.ssessions and military post.s, whose morning drum-beat following the sun, and keeping company with the hours, circles the earth daily with one continuous and unbroken strain of martial music' The company is grow- ing richer every year, and its jurisdiction and its lands will soon find an availability never dreamed of by its founders, un less. a.s may possibly happen, popular sover- eignty step-s in to ijrasp tiit fruits of its long apprenticeship." The Charter of the Hudson Bay Compa- ny expired, by its own limitation, in I8G0, and the question of annexing this vast do- ' mam to Canada, or forming a 8epamt« I province, is now deeply agitating the Brit- \ ish public, both in Canada and in the 1 mother country. 142 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. TABLE OF DISTANCES, From Fort "William, situated at the Mouth of the Kamistaquoiah River, to Fort Alexander, at the head of Lake Winnipeg. Miles. Fort William Parapliue Portage 25 (8 Portages) Dog Portage 51 *?6 (5 Portages) Savan or Swamp Portage* 54 130 Thousand Islands Lake 57 187 (2 Portages) Sturgeon Lake "^l 258 1^4: Portages) Lac La Croix 25 283 (5 Portages) Rainy Lake 40 323 Rainy Lake River 38 361 Lake of the Woods 83 444 Rat Portage 68 512 Fort Alexander 125 637 From Fort Alexander to For t Garry OR Red River Settlement, by Water. Miles. To Pointe de Grand Marais 24 " Red River Beacon 25 49 »* Lower Fort 23 72 " Fort Garry 24 96 From Fort Alexander to Norway House, passing through Lake Winnipeg, 300 miles. From XoRVTAT HousB to York Factory, passing through Oxford Lake and Hayes River, 400 miles. * Summit, elevated 840 feet above Lake Superior. The most usual iiiode of conveyance from Butliilo to the Falls of Niairara, and tlience lo Lake Ontario, or into Canadji, is by the Buffnlo, Xiw/ara FaU.s and Ij^iciston liailroad, JS miles in length. It runs tlirough Tonawanda, 11 miles: Niagara Kails, 22 miles: Susi>ension Bridg<'. 24 miU-3, connecting with the Urcat Western Ilaihvay of Canada, and Itrminates at Lewiston, the head of navigation on Ni- agara River. 2S miles, American and Canadian steamers of a large class leave Lewiston several times daily, for difftrent ports on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. There is also another very desirable mode of conveyance, by Steamboat, de- scending the Niagara River, from Buffalo to Chippewa, C. W., thinco by the Erie ^-i'i ()nkirio liai/if'tvl, 17 miles in It-ngth; ssing in full view of the Falls, to the Lliflon House, three miles below (,'hippe- wa; Suspension Bridge, five miles; Queen- sloii, ol(v<'n miles, terminating at Niag- ara, U. W.. thirty-live miles from Buflalo, .\fl the steamboat leaves Buffalo, on the latter route, a (ine view may be ob- I tained of Lake Krie and bu4h shores of Niagara River. On the Canada side, the first objects of interest are the rnins of old Fort Ehie, captured by the Ameri- ins. July .Hd, isU. It is situatod at the >t of the lake, opj>osite the site of a r.-ng fortre.'ss which the United Slates RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES From Biitralo to .Xia^ara Fall^i, Toronto, etc. government have recently erected for the protection of the river and the city of Buffalo. Watkrloo, C. W'., three miles below Butfajo and opj>osite Black Rock (now a part of Buffalo), with which it is connect- ed by a steam-ferry, is handsomely situ- ated on the west side of Niagara River, which is here about lialf a mile wide. The Bnffidniiiid Lake Huron Rutlraad runs from Fort Erie, near Waterloo, to Paris. C. W., where it connects with the (ireat Western R«dway of Canada. It is now completed to Goderich, C. W., lying on Lake Huron. (J HAND IsLAKD. belonging to the Uni- ted States, is passed on the right in de- scending the river. It is a large and val- uable tract of good land, abounding with white oak of a superior quality. Navy Island, belonging to the British, is next passi d, lying within gun-shot of the mainland. This i.sland obtained great notoriety in the fall and winter of ls:i7-'s, when it was occupied by the '• Patriots." as they were styled, during the troubles in Canada. The Steamer Caroline was destroyed on the ni^f't of December 29th, 1S3 7, while lyinK at Scldosser's Ljinding. on the American sliore, havin<; been i u- }jaged in transporting persons to ancciirred during' the last war; and while each party boasted a victory, alioffcther too dearly bought, neither was disposed to renew the cou- liicL" Clifton is a new and nourishing villag.', situated at the western termination of the Great Western RaUway. where it connects with the Suspeti^ivfi BritLje. For descrip- tion of route to Detroit, 4c, see page 5U. | yuEENsrox, situated seven miles below the Falls, and about the same distance above the entrance of Niag-ara River into Lake Ontario, lies directly opposite the village of Lewiston, with which it is con- nected by a Suspension Brid^^e 850 feet in lengtlu It contiiins about 5UU inhabitants, 60 dwelling-houses, one Kpiscojtal, one Scotch rrcsbytcrian, and one Baptist church, four taverns, lour stores, and three warehouses. This place is also celebrated as being the scene of a deaowder, April 17. JS4U; an infamous act, said to have been perpetrated by a person concerned in the insurrection of 18;J7-'38. Bh-;iio Fort Xiwjara, on the Ameriean side. It contains alx)tit :J,oOO inhabitantj, a c >urt-hou30 and jail; oqo Episcopal, o.io Trosbyterian, oao Met'.io- 146 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. dist. and one Roman Catholic Church ; 6 hotels and taverns ; and 20 stores of dif- ferent kinds ; also, an extensive locomo- tive and car factory. This is the most noted place in Canada West for building steamboats and other craft navigating Lake Ontario. Here is a dockyard with a marine raih.vay and foundry attached, capable of making machinery of the lar- gest description, and giving employment to a great number of men. It is ov/ned by the " Niagara Dock Company." Steamers leave daily for Toronto, etc. Fort George, situated a short distance south or up-stream from the mouth of the river, is now in ruins. This was the scene of a severe contest in 1813, in which the Americans were victorious. A new fort has been erected on the point of land at the mouth of the river, directly opposite old F(^rt Niagara on the American side. I The new fortification is called Furt Ma^sa- \sauga. The whole frontier on the Canada side, i from Fort George to Fort Erie, opposite 1 Buffalo, was occupied by the American jarmy in 1814, when occurred a succession i of battles of the most determined and bril- ; liant character. NIAGARA RIVER, ITS RAPIDS, FALLS, ISLANDS, AND ROMANTIC SCENERY. " Majestic stream I what river rivals thee, Thou child of many lakes, and sire of one — Lakes that claim kindred with the all-circling sea — jAii-iic at thy birth as when thy race is run ! A^'ainst what great obstructions h:i3 thou won Tliinc august way — the rock -formed mountain- plain Has opened at thy bidding', and the steep Bars not thy passage, for the ledge in A'ain Stretches across the channel — tliou dost leap Sublimely down the height, and urge ag:un Thy rocic-embattled course on to the distant main.*' ^This most remarkable and romantic stream, the outlet of Lake Erie, through whicli flows all the accumulated waters of the L^pper Lakes of North America, very appropriately forms the boundary between two great countries, the British province of Upper Canada on the one side, and the State of New York, the '' Empire State" of the Union, on tlie opposite side. In its whole course, its peculiar character is quite in keeping with the stupendous Cataract from which its pruicipal interest is derived. The amount of water passiug through this channel is immense ; from a compu- tation which has been made at the out- let of Lake Erie, the quantity thus dis- charged is about twenty millions of cubic feet, or upwards of 600,000 tons per minute, all of which great volume of water, 20 miles below, plunges over the Falls of Niagara. The Niagara River commences at Bird Island, nearly opposite the mouth of Buf- falo harbor, and passes by the site of old Fort Erie and Waterloo on the Canada side. At the later place a steam ferry- boat plies across tlie river to Black Rock, now forming a part of the city of Buffalo. It is here proposed to construct a railroad bridge across the stream, about 1,800 feet in width. Squaw Island and Strawberry Island are both small islands lying on the Amer- ican side of tlie stream, near the head of Grand Island. The river is here used in part for the Erie Canal, a pier extending from Squaw Island to Bird Island, forming a largo basin called Black Rock Harbor. Grand Island, attached to Erie Co., ROLTK FliOM BLFFALO TO NIAGAUA FALLS, ETC. 147 N. Y., is a large and important body of laud, about ten miles loajf from north to Houtli, aud sovca miles wide. This i-ilaiid is partly clearei and c.iUivated, whilo l!io larger portion is c )vered with a largo growth of oaks and utiior forest trees. The ship or steauiboat channel runs alon/ the b.iuk nf liraiid Islaud to n«arly opposite Chipjtewa, wliero the whole stream unites before plunging over the Falls of Niag^ara. beinir ng.iin separated at the head oi" (roat Island. From this point the awe-struck traveller can scan the quiot waters abyvo, and tlio raging rapids below, preparing tu plunge over the Oataract. Cayl-ga Isla.vd and Buckhorn Island are saiall bodies of land belonging to the United States, situated immediately bo- low Grand Island. Navy Island, lying opposite the vil- lage of Chippewa, IS miles hAnv tlie head of t'ae river, is a celebrated island b^longmg to the Ctnadiaus, having been taken possession of by tlie sympathizing patriots in 1S37, when a partial rebellion occurred in Upper and Lower C.inida. To.s'AWA.VDA, 11 miles below Butf.ilo, is situated at •he moutli of Tunawanda Creek, opposite Grand Island. Tlie Erie C'lmil here enters the creek, which it fol- lows for several miles on its cour.se to- ward Lock port. A railnjad also runs to Lockport, connectnii; with the Ne'v York Central Ji'idnxici, extending to Albany. A ship canui is proposed to be construct- ed from Tntinue for abi)ut een cleared otX, and a garden enclosed, in which are sjjme excellent fruit-trees, and a variety of native and foreign plants and tlowers. and a lish-pond. The island is remarkably cool, shady, and pleasant, and is an object of unceasing admiration from year to year, (yoinforlable seats and arbors are pUiced at tiie m >st interesting points, where the visitor can sit at ease and enjoy the beautiful aud sublime viewg presented to his sight — often entranced by a deafening roar of miglity waters in their descent, accorapanii'd l>y chang- ing rainbows of the most gorgeous de- scription. 148 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. ./WTIITTEN BY LYDIA H. SIGOURNEY. Flow on forever, in thy srlorious robe Of terror and of be;iuty ;'G(>d bath set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud Mantles around thy feet, and He doth give Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him Eternally; bidding the lip of man Keep silence, and "upon thy rocky altar ^ Pour incense of awe-struck praise. /^ Goat Island Bridge. — The Niagara Falls Gazette gives the following descrip- tion of this new structure: "This bridge across tlie east branch of the Niagara River is situated in the Rap- ids, about sixty rods above the Cataract, on the site of the old wooden bridge. It is 360 feet long, and consists of four arches of ninety feet span each, supported be- tween the abutments of three piers. The piers above water are built of heavy cut stone, and are tweuty-two feet long and six feet wide, tapering one foot in the height. Tlie foundations are formed of fjot-square oak timber, strongly framed and bolted together in cribs, tilled with stone, and covered with timber at the sur- face of the water. These timber-founda- tions are protected against wear and injury from ice by heavy plates of iron, and be- ing always covered with water, will be as durable as the stone. "The superstructure is of iron, on the plan of Whipple's iron-arched bridge. The whole width is twenty-seven feet, alibrding a double carriage-way of sixteen and a half feet, and two foot-ways of five and a fourth feet each, with iron railings. Tlic arches are of cast iron, and the cliords, suspenders, and braces of wrought iron. All the materials used in the con- struction are of the best quality, and the size and strength of all the parts far beyond what are deemed necessary in bridges exposed to the severest tests. "This substantial and beautiful struc- ture, spanning a branch of tliis majes- tic river in the midst of the rapids, and overlooking the cataract, is worth}' of the site it occupies, and affords another in- stance of the triumph of human ingenuity over the obstacles of nature. " The islands connected by this bridge with the American shore are the property of Messrs. Porter, and constitute the most interesting features in the scenery sur- rounding the cataract. This bridge has been erected by them to facilitate com- munication with tliese interesting locali- ties not otherwise accessible." This is a toU-bridge, every foot passen- ger being charged 25 cents for the season, or single crossing. There are upward of thirty islands and islets in the Niagara River or Strait, above ( the cataract. Most of those not described I are small, and scarcely worthy of enumer- j ation, although those immediately contigu- I ous to Goat Island form beautiful objects '\ in connection with the rushing and mighty waters by which they are surrounded. Batli Island, Brig Island, Ghapin^s Island, and Bird Island, all situated immediately above the American Fall, are reached by bridges. When on G-oat Island, turning to the right toward the Falls, the first object of interest is Ilogg^s Back, a point of land facing the American Fall, — Bridge to Ad- ington Island immediately above the Cave of the Winds, 1 GOfoet below. Sam. Patch's Point is next passed on the right, from which he took a fearfid leap some years since. Biddle's Stairs descend to the water's edge below and the Cave of the Winds, which are annually visited by thousands of visitors. Terrapin Bridge and Terrapin Tower afford a grand view of the Canadian or Horse-Shoe FaU and Rapids above the Falls. Three Sister Isl- ands are contiguous to Goat Island, on the American side. Passing around Goat I>1- !and toward the south, a grand view is I afforded of the river and rapids above the 1 Canadian and American Falls. ROUTB FROM BIKFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, KTC. 149 Niac^Hra is a word of Indian origin — the orthography, accentuation, and mean- ing of which are variously given by diflerent authors. It is liigidy probable that this diversity might be accounted for and explained by tracing the appellation through the dialects of the several tribes of aborigines who foruvrly inhabited the neighboring country. Tbere is reason to believe, however, that the etymon belongs to the language of the Iroquois, and signi- fies the " Thunder of Wuttrs.'" " When the traveller tirst arrives at the cataract he stands and gazes, and is lost in admiration. The mighty volume of water which forms the outlet of the groat Liikes Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie, is here precipitated over a precipice IGO feet high, with a roar like that of thunder, which may bo heard, in favora- ble circumstances, to tlio distance of tif- teon miles, tlujugh, at times, the Falls may be nearly approached witiiout perceiving nuicb to indicate a tremendous cataract in the vicinity. In consetjuence of a bend in the river, the principal woight of water is thrown on the Canadian Bide, down what is called the Horse-Shoe Fall, which name has become in- appropriate, aa the edges of the precipice have ceased to be a curve, and form a moderately acute an- gle. Near the mid- dle of the fall. Goat Island, containing 75 acres, extend.^ to the brow of the precipice, dividing the river into two parts; and a small projecting mass of rock at a little distance from it, toward the American Hhore, again divides the cataract on that side. Goat Island, at the lower end, presents a perpendicu- lar mass of rocks, extending from the Ixjt- tom to the top of the precipice. A bridge has been constructed from the American shore to B.Tth Island, and another connects the latter with (Joat Island, jind a tower is erected on the brow of the Horse-Shoe Fall, approached from Goat Island by a short bridge, on which the spectator seems to stand over the edge of tlie mighty cat- aract, and wliich aflbnls a tiue view of tliia part of it. The distance at the fall from the American shore to Goat Island is »j5 rods; across the front of Goat Island is 78 rods; around the Horse-Shoe Fall, on the Canadian side. 144 rods; directly across the Horse-Shoe, 74 nH.ls. The ' height of the fall near th«' American shore is 1G3 feet; near Goat l.^-land, on the same side. 138 feet; near Goat I^land, on the ! Canada side, 154 feet. Table Rock, a ; shelving projection on the Caua«lian side, at the edge of the precipice, is 150 feet , liigh. This place is generally thought to present tlie linest view of the Falls; thougli. if the spectiitor will vi.:} miles from Al'oany by rail- road route. No place in tlie Tnion excecdr« this favored sp.-t as a fashionable place of resort during the summer and fall months, when hundreds of visitors may be seen every day Hocking to Goat Island, or points contiguous to the Rapids and Falls, The village contains several large hotels for the accommodation of visitors, the most note; is a new and nourishing place containing about 1,500 inhabitants. Here is situated tho Monteajlr J/otfl. 152 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. SUSPENSION BRIDGE AND THE Cataract and Kapids of Niag^ara. To give you some idea of the grandeur f of this triumph of engineering skUl — THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE— we copy the following article from the Buffalo " De- mocracy" of June 21st, the character of which able and disinterested Journal re- quires no indorsement from us. AN ENGINEER'S MONUMENT. Spanning the chasm of the Niagara River, uniting the territories of two differ- ent Governments, and sustaining the unin- terrupted railroad traffic of the Provinces of Canada with the United States, 250 feet above a fiood of water which man has never been able to ferry, stands the monu- ment of JoHX A. RoEBLiN'G. The Magara Raihuay Suspension Bridge, is the grandest and the most distinguisliing achievement of Art in this world. It is the proudest, it is the most beautiful, and will prove to be the most enduring monument anywhere set up on this continent. Regard this wonderful product of engi- neering skill. Its span is 822 feet. Yet an engine, tender and passenger car, load- ed witli men, and weighing altogether 47 tons, depress the long floor in tlie centre but 5.J- inches. The Bridge, loaded with a loaded freight train, covering its whole length, and weighing 326 tons, is deflected in the middle only 10 inches. Tliis ex- treme depression is perceptible only to practised eyes. The slighter changes of level require to be ascertained witli in- struments. Dehcate as laco work, and seemingly light and airy, it hangs there high between heaven and the boiling flood below, more solid than the earthbeds of the adjacent railways. The concussions of fast moving trains are sensibly felt miles off through solid rocky soil. In cities lo- comotives shake entire blocks of stone dwellings. The waters of the Cayuga Lake tremble under the wheels of the express trains, a mile away from the bridge. But a freight train traversing JOHX A. Roebling's Monument, at the speed of five raiies an hour, communicates no jar to passengers walking upon the carriage way below. The land cables of the biidge do not tremble under it — the slight concussions of the superstructure do not go over the summits of the towers. Tliis last fact in the stiffness of the great work is of much importance. It furnishes a guarantee of the durability of the ma- sonry. Fast anchored with stone and grouted in solid rock cut down to the depth of twenty-five feet, the great cables are immovable by any mechanical force incidental to the use of the bridge, or the natural influences it will be subject to. The ultimate strength of these cables is 12,400 tons. The total weight "of the ma- terial of the bridge, and of the traffic to which it will ordinarily be subjected is 2,262 tons, to sustain which the Engineer has provided in his beautiful and scientific structure, a strength of 12,400 tons. He demonstrates, too, that while the strength of the cables is nearly six times as great as their ordiuary tension, that strength WILL NEVER BE IMPAIRED BY VIBRATION. This was the question raised by The De- mocracy, a year ago, which excited such general, and in instances such angry dis- cussion. RoEBLiNG treated our doubts with a cool reason and the stores of an e^^tensive engineering experience, wliich gave us to believe that Art had at last attained to a method of suspending Iron Bridges for Railroad use, that sljould on- ROUTE FROM BIFKALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. lo.i tirely obviate the objections to thera felt by laost of the Iron-Masters of the United States. He has since tliat demonstrated il in a most wonderful strueture. There are in the l)ridge G24 "suspend- ers," each capable of sustaining :^0 tons — and all of sustaining 1S,72U tons. The weight they have ordinarily' to stipport is only 1,000 tons. But the Knfrineer has .skilfully distributed the wei^dit of the burdens, by the means of "^'irders" and " trusses." These spreatl the 31 tons lieft of a locomotive and tender over a length of 200 feet. How ample is this provision made for defective iron or sudden strains ! The Anchor Chains are composed of D Unks, each 7 feet long, .save -the last, which is 10 feet. The lowest link is made of 7 bars of iron, 7 inch by li. It is bc- cured to a cast iron anchor plate 3h inches thick, and 6 feet G inches square. The other links are equally strong. The iron used was all made from Pennsylvania char- coal, Ulster county. N Y., and Salisbury Pig. and can bo depended upon for a strength of G-4.(»00 pounds to the square inch. The central portii^ns of the anchor plates, through which tlie links pass is 12 inches thick. The excavations in the solid rock were not vertical They inclined from the river. The rock upon which the work may rely on the New York side of the chasm is loO feet long, 70 feet wide, and 20 feet deep. It weighs 100 pounds to the cubic foot, and presents a resistance of 14.000 tons, exclusive of the weight of the superincumbont masonry and embankment. The To\VEii8 are each 15 feot s([nareat the base, 00 feet high above the arch, and H feet square at the top. The limestone of which they are built will support a pres- sure of 500 tons on each s.^naro foot with- out crushing. While the greatest weight that can fall upon the tower will rarely exceed GOO tons, a pressure of 32,000 tons will be required to crush the top course. There are 4,00u tons' weight in each of the towers on the Now York side. The cables ore 4 in numlier, 10 inches in diameter, and composed each of 3,640 small No. 9 wires, Si.xty wires form one square inch of solid Erection, making the solid section of the entire cable (;0.40 square inches, wrapping not included. These immen.se masses of wire are put together so that each individual wire per- forms its duty, and in a strain all work together. On this, Mr. Hoeblino, who is a moderate as well as a modest man, feels justilied in speaking with the word PEitFECT. Eiich of tlie large cables is oomi)osed of four smaller ones, Cidled "strands." Each strand ha.« 520 wires. One is placed in the centre. The rest are placed around that. These strands were manufactured nearly in the same position the cables now occupy. The preparatory labors, such as oiling, straightening, spli- cing, and reeling, were done in a long shed on the Canada side. Two strands were made at the same time, one for each of the two cables under process of con- struction. On the completion of one set, temporary wire bands were laid on, about nine inches apart, for the purpose of keeping the wires closely united, and se- curing their relative position. They were then lowered to occupy their permanent position in the cable. On completion of the seven pairs of strands, two platform carriages were mounted upon the cables, for laying on a continuous wrapping, by means of Roebling's patent wrap|)ing machines. During this process the whole mass of wire was again saturated witli oil and paint, which, together with the wrapping, will protect them eflcctually against all o.xidation. Five hundred tons of this wire is Engli.^h. American man- ufacturers did not put in proposals. That used was remarkably uniform, and most carefully mad^ The law dediiced from large use of wire rope in Pennsylvania, is, that its durabili- ty dejx^nds upon its usage. It will last much longer under heavy stiains njoviiig 154 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. slowly, tlxan it will under light strains ' moving rapidly. This law was borne I constantly in mind by the Engineer of ! the Niagara Railway Bridge. Ihe cables and suspenders are, so to speak, at rest. They are so well protected, too, from rust, that they maj' be regarded as eternally durable. Among the interesting characteristics of this splendid architecture, is its elas- ticity. The depression under a load com- mences at the end, of course, and goes regularly across. After the passage of a train, the equUibriuin is perfectly restored. The elasticity of the cables is fully equal to this taslv, and will never be lost. The equilibrium of the Bridge is less a3ected in cold weather than in warm. If a change of temperature of 100 de- grees should take place, the difference in the level of the floor would be 2 feet 3 inches. So solid is this Bridge in its weight, its stiffness, and its staying, that not the slightest motion is communicated to it by the severest gales of wind that blow up through the narrow gorge which it spans. Next to violent winds, suspension bridge builders dread the trotting of cattle across their structures. Mr. Roebling says that a heavy train running 20 miles an hour across his Bridge, would do less injury to it than would 20 steers passing on a trot. It is the severest test, next to that of troops marching in time, to which bridges, iron or wooden, suspension or tubular, can be subjected. Strict regula- tions are enforced for the passage of hogs, horses, and oxen, in small bodies, and always on a walk. This great work cost only $500,000. The same structure in England (if it could possibly have been built there) would have cost $4,000,000. It is unquestiona- bly the most admirable work of art on this continent, and will make an imper- ishable monument to the memory of its Engineer, Jonx A. Roebling. "We append a Table of Quantities for the convenience of our readers, and the more easy comprehension of the charac- ter of the structure : Lensthof span from centre to centre of Towers 822 feet Height of Tower above rock on Ameri- can side 8S feet Height of Tower above rock, Canada side 78 feet Height of Tower above flooi- of Itailway. 60 feet Is umber of Wire Cables 4 Diameter of each Cable 10 inches Number of Xo. 9 wires in each Cable. . 3,561) Ultimate aggregate strength of Cables, 12,400 tons Weight of Superstructure 750 tons Weight of Superstructure and maxi- mum loads 1.250 tons Ultimate supporting strength 730 tons Height of Track above water 250 feet Base of Towers 16 feet squai-e Top of Towers 8 '' Length of each Upper Cable 1,256* feet " Lower Cable 1,190 feet Depth of Anchor Pits below surface of Eock 30fect Number of Suspenders 624 Ultimate strength of Susi)enders 18,720 tons Number of Overfloor Stays 64 Aggregate strength of Stays 1,920 tons Number of Itiver Stays 56 Aggregate strength of Stays 1,680 tons Elevation of Eailway Track above mid- dle stage of lii ver 245 feet Total length of Wires 4,000 miles The weights of the materials in the bridge are as follows : LB8. Timber 919,130 Wrou<,'ht Iron and Suspenders 113,120 Castings 44,332 Kails 66,740 Cables (between towers) 535,400 Total 1,673,722 The Great Western Railway op Canada, which unites with the New York Central Railroad, terminating on the Ameri- can side of the river, here commences and extends westward through Hamilton, Loudon, and Chatham to Windsor, oppo- site Detroit, Mich., forming one of the great through hues of travel from Boston and New York to Detroit, Chicago, and the Far West. See page 50. This road also furnishes a speedy route of ♦.ravel to Toronto. Montreal, etc. ROUTE FROM Ul'FFALO TO NIAOARA FALLS, ETf. 155 Rateft off dinr&:eN at I%'ia;;ara Falls. The follow i Jig are the rates of charpes usually exacted from persons visiting iSi- agara Falls — but, unfoituuat»'ly, imposi- tions are ollen practised by unprincipled individuals at this, as well as other fush- i'Hiable resorts: AMERICAN' SIDE. Board, from one to two and a half dol- lars per day. Fur services of guide, from one to throe dollars. For guide behind the Central Fall, and visiting the Cave of the \Vinth sides of the river, are unrivalled ' and no visitor should lose the opportunity I to visit all tlie objects of attraction abovo and below the mighty Cataract. It is necessary to make exact agree- (ments with the hackmen aiid guides in order to avoid imposition; some on tho Canada side refuse to take American bauk- |bdls except at a great discount. Lew IS ION, Niagara Co.. N. Y., is de- lightfidly situated on the east l)ank of tho Niagara Kiver, seven miles Ulow tho Falls, and seven miles above the mouth of the river where it falls into Lake On- tario. It is an incorporated village, and contains about 1.000 inhabitants, four churches, an incorporated academy ; a custom-house, it being the port of entry for the district of Niagara; three hotels^, nine stores, and three storehou.'ses. Hero is a very convenient steamboat landing, jfrom which steamers depart daily for ds- iwego, Ogdensburgh, etc., on ,the Ameri- :can side, and for Toronto. Kinf;ston. etc., ion the Canadian side. The Bullalo. Ni:ig- ara Falls, and Lewiston Railroad tt'ruii- ; nates at this place, where is a maguilicent I Suspension Bridge thrown across the Ni- 'agara, connecting Lewiston with Queeus- Iton, Canada. Tlie mountain ridge hero rises about 300 feet above the river, form- ing many picturesque and romantic points of great interest. On the American side of the river stands the site of old Fort Gray, erected during the war of 1K12, I while on the Canadian side are situated Queenstou Heights, surmounted by a beau- tiful moDuinont erected to th-' memory of General BnH-k. of the British army, who was here killed in a sanguinary conHict, October 13th, 1S12. From this' height a I most extensive and grand view is obtained ! of Lake Ontario and the surrounding coun- itry. { YouN'GSTOWN, six miles below Lewis- I ton. and one mile above old Fort Niagara jat the mouth of the river, is a regular I steamboat landing. Tho vilhige ci-ntaina |a)>out hOO iuhabit;iut'i ; throe cbuiclic><. 156 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. two public-hciises, five stores, and two i A ferry plies from Toungsto^^^l to the vil- flourino^ mills, besides other manufactur- j lage of Niagara on the Canada side of the ing establishments. A railroad is nearly | river, here about half a mile in width, completed, extending from this place to j This is the first landing, on the American Niagara F:dls. being a continuation of the ; side of the river, after leaving the broad Oanandaigua and Niagara Falls Railroad, j waters of Lake Ontario. Fort Xiagara is now completed to the Suspension Bridge, i situated at the mouth of the river. Route around l.ake Ontario. Miles. Kingston. C. "W.. to Toronto, via Grand Trunk Railway 160 Toronto to Hamilton. C. W., Toronto and Harailtan R. R. 38 Hamilton to Suspension Bridge, via Great Wtstera R. R. 43 Suspension Bridge to Rochester, N. Y., via K 7. Central Railway 76 Rochester to Oswego, N. Y., by stage TO Oswego to Richland, N. Y., " . . t 35 Richland to Cape Vincent, via Watertown and Rome R. R 55 Cape Vincent to Kingston, C. W., via Wolfe Island 12 Total Miles 489 Note. — The extreme length of Lake On- ] as long as its greatest width. The circuit tario is 190 miles, from Cape Vincent to I of the water is estimated at 480 miles. — Hamilton, C. W.; being about four times \ See Lake Erie, page 14. LAKE ONTARIO. Thi3 Lake, tho mo«t oastcrn of the srrcat cliain of Lakes of North Aineric;i. receiv«'S the surplus waters of Nia^'ara River; it is 180 miles in length, anl GO miles in ex- treme brea^itli : l>oing about -tso miles in circumference. The bouu.iary line between the British Possessions and tho United Sutes runs through tlie middle of the lake, and so c mtinues down the St Law- rence to the 4jth degree of north latitude, where tho river enters Canada. The lake is nivigable throughout its whole extent for vessels of the largt?st size; and it is said to be in some places upward of 600' feet in depth. Its surface is elevated 234 feet above the Atlantic, and lies 3;;0 feet lower than Lake Erie, with which it is connected by the Niaj^ara River and by the Welland Canal in Canada. It had also been proposed to construct a ship canal on the American sido. The trade of Lake Ontario, from, tho preat dx- tent of inhabited country surrounding it. is very considerable, and is rapidly in- creasing. Many sail vessels and splendid sU.*:«mers are employed in navi<::^atini^ its waters, which, owing to it.s great depth, never freeze, except at the sides, where the water is shallow ; so that its navijja- tion is not so effectually interrupted by ice as some of the other larii^e lakes. The most important places on the Canadian or liritish side of L;ike Oni.irio are Kin^rston. C^)burg. Port Hope. Toronto, Hamilt'm, and Niagara; on the American shore. Cape Vincent, Sacket's Uarlx>r. Oswego. Charlotte or Port Grenesee, and LewLston. on Niagara River. This Lake is connected 'with ttio n3vi;jahle waters of tiie Hudson River by moans of the Oswetro and Krie : canals. It recMves numerous stre ims, both ' from the Canaounds with a great variety of fish ' of an excellent flavor. The l>a."*s and sal- mon, in particular, have a hitrh reputation, and arc taken in large