Of ILLINOIS 634 cZ6 H96a Agriculture The person charging this material is re- sponsible for its return to the library from which it was withdrawn on or before the Latest Date stamped below. Theft, mutilation, and underlining of books are reasons for disciplinary action and may result in dismissal from the University. To renew call Telephone Center, 333-8400 UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/americangrapegro00husm_0 AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION JLJN 23 1893 i::':TOsrfY of Illinois. 1 / agricultural AMElfmW ,ENT STAT,ON JUN o o 1888 GRAPE AND WINE MAKING. BY GEORGE HUSMANN, OP TALCOA VINEYARDS, NAPA, CAL. NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION. WITH SEVERAL ADDED CHAPTERS ON THE GRAPE INDUSTRIES OF CALIFORNIA. ILLUSTRATED. NEW YORK: ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 751 BROADWAY. 1888 . Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by the ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS agriculture library PREFACE TO THE NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION. The progress of horticulture is so marked aud rapid, that those who do not keep even pace with it, are soon left behind. This is especially true with grape culture, which has perhaps progressed more rapidly than any other branch. When I look over the first edition, issued only a few years ago, I find that it has already fallen behind, although its aim was to present the most recent experience. New varieties of grapes have since made their appearance, while old ones have been dropped from the lists, the taste of the public having become more refined and critical. New areas have been opened to grape culture, which is spreading into every State and Territory, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and the all-important question, one that is asked every day, in every locality, is : “ What grapes shall we plant ?” This is as it should be ; progress is the watchword of the age, and no one can be more willing to acknowledge its claims than I, who have wished for it and believed that it would come, when others thought that these hopes were but the dreams of an enthusiast. Especially since my removal to the Pacific Coast (in the fall of 1881) have I become aware that a book which I aimed to make as cosmopolitan as possible, in the ex- perience it sought to impart, can not claim to be a guide unless a large share of its pages are devoted to grape cul- ture and wine making in California. A visit to this shore, in the summer of 1881, convinced me that this was the true home of the grape, and that California, with her sunny and dry summers, and her mild winters, was destined to be the vine land of the world ; that promised land where every one “ could sit under his own vine and fig tree.” Diseases of the vine are here comparatively IV PREFACE. unknown, the rainless summers, when no showers are expected from May until September, allow nearly all of the crop to ripen every year. Even in the unusually cool summer of 1882, with early and abundant rains in Sep- tember, the crops ripened sufficiently to make a fair wine, perhaps only the more agreeable because not too heavy. These favorable climatic conditions simplify the culture and training of the vine, the gathering of the fruit, and the operations in wine making. Gallizing and Petioliz- ing became superfluous, and would not even pay, as grape juice is cheaper than sugar and water would be. In this climate it becomes possible that one man can own and superintend hundreds of acres of vineyard, and that a fair wholesale price for the wine, when three months old, is from twenty to thirty cents per gallon. At this rate it pays the producer well, as it costs him on the average about twenty dollars per annum per acre to cul- tivate the grapes and make the wine ; and five hundred gallons per acre is considered an average yield. That, under all these favorable circumstances, California must become the first grape-growing State in the Union, seems to be but natural, especially when we consider also the raisin industry, perhaps still more profitable, and the extended shipments of table grapes to the Eastern States, and other sources of profit. But, easy as are grape culture and wine making here, there is a vast field for improvement ; and nowhere else perhaps are rational knowledge and proper skill more needed. The very ease of the pursuit, which allowed any one, even with the simplest culture and the most common treatment, to raise a fair crop and make a drink- able wine, has led many, in fact a large majority, to em- bark in grape growing who knew but little about it, and did not try to learn more. They followed the pursuit negligently and mechanically, without proper study and observation. The results were, the culture of varieties PREFACE. y which produced the most, without regard to quality, and a great amount of inferior wines were made from them. These poor wines, of course, obscured the merits of the really fine wines, and brought them into bad repute. For a number of years California wines were al- most unsalable, even at twelve or fifteen cents per gallon. But this state of affairs has changed for the better, and the improvement still continues. The old Mission grape, which was almost the only variety cultivated at first, and which gives a very heady and heavy wine, but of little fineness and delicacy, is generally cast aside for better varieties, of which nearly all the new plantings have been made. Wines are now beginning to be appreciated ac- cording to their merits, the habits of the choicer varieties of the grape are studied more, and their pruning and treat- ment changed accordingly. Dealers begin to discriminate in their purchases between cellars filled with ordinary wines and those of superior grades; they pay higher prices for the latter, and are reluctant to purchase the former at any price. That this change is as inevitable as it is desirable, must become clear to every one whose judgment is unbiased. It is the “old, old story,” which repeats itself in every branch of industry, that only those whose motto is, “Excelsior,” who work with brain as well as hand to achieve the best, will eventually win the day. California has wines already, which can take their place with the choicest productions of the Rhine, France, and Burgundy, and we may safely claim for our wines, that a better article can be bought in San Francisco to-day, from some of our leading firms, at from six to nine dollars per case, than can be purchased in St. Louis or New York, of foreign importation, at from fifteen to twenty-four dollars per case. That these wines are often shipped to the East in bulk, and then sold under French and German labels, detracts nothing from their merits ; that this is even done in San Francisco, is indeed to be deplored. But VI PREFACE. this will change; I hope to yet see the day in which Cali- fornia may proudly claim a place in the front rank in the production of fine wines, and when they will boldly sail under their true colors. To accomplish this change, we need a closer study of the best varieties for each location, and rational treatment according to their habits ; we need more skill in the mak- ing and handling of wines ; more especially do we require a free and unshakled expression and interchange of ex- perience and opinions among grape growers. The State Viticultural Commission, created by act of Legislature approved in April, 1880, with an annual appropriation of ten thousand dollars, have done a great deal to spread information, and to gather it. The first Convention of grape growers, held in Dashaway Hall, San Francisco, in September, 1882, brought together perhaps the largest and finest exhibition of grapes and wines ever held in the State, and elicited much valuable information. But un- fortunately it was also characterized by a dictatorial and arbitrary spirit, which did not allow as free and liberal an interchange of experience as could be wished, and a great deal of time was consumed in learned essays and impracticable theories, which could have been more profit- ably devoted to experience from practical men, who were in a measure shut out from the discussions, if their views did not happen to coincide with those of the ruling spirits. Let us hope that a more liberal spirit may prevail in the future, and that the next convention will give us a full and free expression of the views of all practical men. We need close attention to insect pests, and especially to the Phylloxera, which has already made serious inroads in many sections of the State, and may become as de- structive to our vineyards in the near future, as it has already been in France. We want to prevent its ravages, not by costly insecticides, or by quarantine, but by the only rational method, the planting of vines able to resist PREFACE. VII it; this will establish our vineyards on a permanent basis. To do my share in this great work, to contribute my mite to the fund of general knowledge, has been the aim of the additional pages, devoted mainly to grape culture and wine making on the Pacific Coast. It is true that my experience here is but limited, but I have observed closely, and have quoted the experience of others wherever I could obtain it. I do not claim to be an authority, nor do I acknowledge any. We are all workers in a common cause, liable to err, but also gathering experience as we labor, which may be of service to others, if imparted. Let me hope, that my brother vintners will receive this new edi- tion as kindly as the former one. In this, as in the first edition, it has been my object to be a guide to the beginner, the small producer and wine maker, rather than to those who already own establish- ments large enough to employ skilled labor, and who, with large capital, are able to bear reverses and mistakes with equanimity. But the beginner who works from hand to mouth, who must struggle on for several years before he can realize enough to make a comfortable living, can not afford to make serious mistakes, either in the varieties he plants, or in the wines he makes from them. If such find anything in the pages of this little book which is useful to them, which will cheer their labors and further them, making them more easy and profitable, I shall have at- tained my object in revising it. What we all need, is practical and useful information, more than elaborate, impractical theories. This I have tried to give, based upon my own experience, and that of other practical vintners from whom I have been anxious to learn, fully realizing that I was entering upon a new field, where I had to learn from those who preceded me. George Husmaiot. Talcoa Vineyards , Napa , Cal.; Nov. 9, 1883. CONTENTS. Page. Introduction v CHAPTER I.— The Classification of Grapes 11 44 II.— Propagation of the Vine— By Seeds 16 “ III.— Propagation by Cuttings in the Open Air 19 “ IV.- Propagating the Vine by Layers 21 44 V.— Graf ting the Vine 22 44 AVI.— The Vineyard -Location, Aspect, and Soil 28 44 VII.— Preparing the Soil 30 “ rWIII.— What Grapes to Plant— Choice of Varieties 31 “ IX.— Labrusca Class, With their Hybrids 35 “ X— The JEstivalis Class— For General Cultivation 54 “ XI— The ^Estivalis Class— Varieties Promising Well 61 XII. — Cordifolia Class (or riparia according to Engelmann).. 65 XIII.— The Cordifolia Class — Varieties Promising Well 70 44 XT V.— Varieties Difficult to Classify, etc 77 “ ^ XV.— Varieties for Different Localities 79 44 ^XVI.— Planting the Vine 81 “ XVII.— Treatment of the Vine the First Summer 84 XVIII. — Treatment of the Vine the Second Summer 87 “ XIX.— Treatment of the Vine the Third Summer 91 44 XX.— Treatment of the Vine the Fourth Summer 96 44 XXI.— Training the Vine on Arbors and Walls 98 44 'XXII.— Other Methods of Training 99 “ VXXIII.— Diseases of the Vine 102 44 'XXIV.— Insects Injurious to the Grape 105 44 XXV. Frosts— Winter Protection 115 44 XXVI.— Girdling, Thinning, and Miscellaneous Matters 117 44 XXVII.— Gathering and Marketing the Fruit 121 “ XXVIII.— Grape Growing in Southern Ohio 127 44 XXIX. — Grape Culture and Wine Making in Ohio 135 44 XXX.— Grape Culture at Kelley's Island, Ohio 138 44 XXXI.— Grape Growing, etc., on Lake Keuka, N. Y 142 44 XXXII.— Grape Growing in Southern Texas 145 44 XXXIII.— The Grapes of Southern Texas 151 41 XXXIV.— The Vineyard in Texas 154 44 XXXV.- -Grape-Growing in Western Texas 159 44 XXXVI.— The Culture of the Grape in California 162 44 XXXVIL— Viticulture in Sonoma Valley, California 166 44 XXXVIII.— Viticulture in Napa Co., California 169 44 XXXIX.— Grape Culture in Maryland — Cashin’s Trellises 174 44 XL. — Grape Culture in Missouri 180 44 XLI. —Grape Culture Near Chattanooga, Tennessee 182 44 XLII.— White Elk Vineyards, Iowa 184 44 XLIII.— The Phylloxera Problem 186 44 XLIV.— Egg Harbor Wines.— Early Winter Grape.— Cost of a Vineyard 190 44 XLV. — Wine Making 195 44 XLVI.— Dr. Gall's and Petiol’s Methods of Wine Making 213 45 XLVIL— Wine Making Rendered Easy— Conclusion 236 —Grapes and Wine in California 240 VIII PART I. THE CULTURE OF AMERICAN GRAPES AND VARIETIES. ( 9 ) CHAPTEE I. THE CLASSIFICATION OF GRAPES. It is only within comparatively few years that much attention has been given to the parentage of our culti- vated varieties of native grapes, as it was formerly thought to be of little or no importance whether a variety was derived from one or another of the few native species. More recent experience has shown that the varieties of a species, however widely they may differ from one another in some respects, agree in other points, and however far the varieties may be removed from the native type, they retain certain characters which indicate a common par- entage. On the other hand, if we know from which species a variety is derived, we can, with a fair degree of certainty, predict its general behavior in cultivation, and in a great degree'its value. This is so generally true that the experienced viticulturists of the present day regard the origin or parentage of the cultivated varieties as a matter of the first importance. It is not in the character of the fruit alone that our varieties differ, as they are derived from one or another of the native species, but the foliage, the wood, the tendrils, the roots, and other parts of the vine retain their peculiarities ; and hardiness not only as regards the ability to endure cold uninjured, but the ability to resist the attacks of both parasitic plants and insects, or whatever else affects the health of the plant is now known to be transmitted with as much certainty, if not, indeed, more surely, than are the form and quality of the fruit. In classifying the numerous varieties now on the lists, they are grouped according to the species of Vitis (the 11 12 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING botanical name of the grape genus), from which they are known to be, or supposed to be, derived, and the name of the species is given to the class. Thus, when a variety is spoken of as “belonging to the cestivalis class,” it is to be understood that it descended from, or is derived from, the native species of grape called by botanists, Vitis cestivalis. So, when in speaking of a variety we, for the sake of brevity, say “it is an cestivalis” it is equivalent to saying that it belongs to the class of varieties derived from the species of that name. All of the European grapes are regarded as having their origin in Vitis vinifera of the old world, a species which, though it has been cultivated from the earliest recorded time, is nowhere known in the wild state. The varieties of this, while generally unsuccessful east of the Rocky Mountains, succeed admirably in the climate of the Pacific Coast, and, until very recently, have been cultivated there to the exclusion of all others. It is of interest to our grape-growers principally on account of the hybrids which have been produced between it and our own na- tive grapes. The varieties of the European grape differ from ours in their leaves, which are “ smoothish,” and, when young, shining ; they are more or less deeply 5 to 7-lobed, the lobes pointed and sharply toothed ; the flesh of the berry adheres to the skin, while the seeds have a narrow and usually proportionately longer beak than in any of the native varieties. There are throughout North America, eight or nine species admitted by botanists as distinct, four only of which have yielded varieties of cultivation ; these are : 1. Vitis Labrusca , The Northern Pox Grape. 2. Vitis cestivalis , The Summer Grape. 3. Vitis cordifolia , or ) The Winter or Frost Grape, or V riparia , ) The Riverside Grape. 4. Vitis vulpina, The Southern Fox Grape. AND WINE MAKING. 13 Without attempting elaborate botanical descriptions, we give here a few brief popular notes on each species ; the varieties derived from them will be found grouped together in their proper places. It may be remarked here that the species vary to a great extent in their wild condition, and it is often the case that those most famil- iar with grapes find it very difficult to decide to which species to refer a given specimen. That most thorough botanist and keen observer, Doct. George Engelmann, of St. Louis, Mo., found that the seeds give, in most cases, more constant marks by which to distinguish the species, than could be found elsewhere. Those who are interested in the botanical aspects of grape culture are referred to an illustrated article prepared by him for the “ Bushberg Catalogue/ 5 published by Bush & Son & Meissner, Bushberg, Mo. 1. Yitis Labrusca, Linn. — The specific name, La- brusca , is the ancient Latin one for a wild vine. This species, the well known Wild, or Fox Grape, extends from Canada to the Gulf, but is rarely found in the Valley of the Mississippi. It is common in moist woods or thickets, and sometimes reaches the tops of the high- est trees. The leaves are large and thick, often entire, and coated on the underside with a thick, whitish, or rusty wool : berries large, dark-purple, or amber-colored, with a tough pulp and a strong, “foxy,” or musky odor; the most common grape of the Northern woods, and pre- sents a great variety in the wild state ; has given rise to an important series of table grapes, of which the best known are the Concord, and several useful hybrids. 2. Yitis ^stivaliS, Michaux.— The term Summer Grape is the equivalent of the specific name. This has large leaves, which are clothed on the underside with loose cottony or woolly down, which is bright red or rusty, “smoothish” when old ; the clusters slender, com- 14 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING pact, dark-blue or black, with a bloom. It is the latest llowering of all the Northern species ; its range is more Southern and Western than the preceding, and it reaches great perfection in Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, and In- dian Territory. Norton’s Virginia and Herbemont are prominent among the varieties, as will be seen at the proper place, in the “ cestivalis class.” 3. Vitis cordifolia, Michaux ; and Vitis riparia, Michaux. — Michaux described two species of the Winter or Frost Grape, one as V. cordifolia (the heart-shaped leaved), and the other as F. riparia (of the river banks). The two were kept distinct by Torrey & Gray in the “ Flora of North America” (1838). In the “ Flora of the State of New York” (1843), Doct. Torrey gives both species, and says of V. riparia: “This species is most readily distinguished from the preceding ( V. cordifolia ), with which it is often confounded, by its incisely serrate leaves.” Doct. Gray in his “Manual of the Botany of the Northern States” (1856), unites the two under F. cordifolia , Michaux, and says: “Var. riparia has the leaves broader and cut-lobed.” (F riparia , Michx). Doct. Chapman in his “Flora of the Southern U. S.” (1860), follows the same arrangement as Gray 0 Later, Doct. Engelmann in Riley’s “ Report on the Insects of Missouri” (1874), and in the “Bushberg Catalogue,” again restores Michaux’s arrangement, and gives both Vitis cordifolia and V. riparia . Those who are aware of the acuteness he brings to the investigation of obscure subjects, and the high esteem in which he is held in the botanical world, will attach great importance to Doct. Engelmann’s views. According to him, besides the difference in the leaves, the fruit of V. cordifolia is black, without a bloom, ripens late, and has a “strong and very fetid aromatic taste, which unfits it for making into preserves, or for pressing wine.” In F riparia he says that the berries are usually AND WINE MAKING. 15 larger than in the last, mostly with a bloom, ripens much earlier, and is much pleasanter. "While no cultivated varieties of V. cordifolia are known, V. riparia gives several, the best known of which is Clinton. In a strict botanical classification it might be necessary to keep these two species distinct, but in a viticultural arrange- ment, where the cordifolia class has become established by usage, it seems hardly worth while to insist upon call- ing it the “riparia class.” As the V. cordifolia , as un- derstood by Engelmann, affords no cultivated varieties, no confusion is likely to result from the use of the term cordifolia , to designate that class of grapes of which the Clinton and Taylor are best knowrn, and which the Elvira promises to bring into greater prominence than it has heretofore enjoyed. The remaining species : 4. Yitis vulpina, Linnaeus (“ the foxy ”), has been called V. rotundifolia (the “round-leaved”) by some later authors. It is not found north of Maryland, and extends into Florida. It rambles to a great distance, has a close, smooth bark like a beech tree, heart-shaped leaves, shining on both surfaces ; the berries, one-half to three-fourths inch in diameter, are very few in a cluster, dropping as soon as ripe, bluish-black (with light-col- ored varieties), with a very thick and leathery skin and a strong and peculiar flavor. This is the parent of the much talked of Scuppernong, Mish, and others. It is called Bullace, and also Muscadine. The important hybrids are mentioned under the class to which the native parent belongs. The term hybrid is properly used only where the variety results from the union of two other varieties from distinct species ; the Catawba and Clinton, or the Concord and Black Prince, by their union, would in each case produce a hybrid ; an Ives fertilized by the pollen of Martha, would produce, not a true hybrid, but merely a cross, as both varieties belong to the same species, the Lahrusca . 1G AMERICAN GliAPE GROWING CHAPTER II. PROPAGATION OF THE VINES.— BY SEEDS. While the raising of grape vines from the seed is more a labor of love, than of actual profit, yet its influence on grape culture generally has been so great, and we are already indebted so largely to its zealous followers, that it cannot be entirely omitted in a work like this. We can not gain further perfection in varieties without this, and the success which has already attended the labors of Rogers, Wylie, Campbell, Ricketts, Muench, Miller, Weydemeier, Langendoerfer, and especially Mr. Jacob Rommel, in giving to us the Elvira, and other varieties still more promising, affords hopes of even more impor- tant results. To begin then at the beginning : choose your seed from a good stock. I am inclined to believe that only the cestivalis and cordifolia (or riparia , as Engelmann has it) species will give us the true wine grapes of the country, and if we can increase their size somewhat, they will also be the best table grapes. We have them already as large as the Catawba, and they are more juicy, of finer flavor, and less pulpy than the varieties from the Labrusca species, while they are much more healthy and hardy. Remember that we have already too many varieties, and that every new one we add should have some decided merit over any of the old varieties, or else be discarded at once. Choose the best berries and the most perfect bunches, from which to take the seed, and either sow in autumn, and cover, or keep them over winter, mixing the seeds with moist sand, when separated from the pulp, to insure ready germination. Sow early in spring, in well pulver- ized clay soil, in drills one foot apart, and drop the seeds AND WINE MAKING. 17 about an inch apart in the rows, covering about three- quarters of an inch deep, with finely pulverized soil. When the young plants appear, keep them clean and well cultivated through the summer; in the fall take them up carefully, and put in well drained fine soil, so as to preserve their roots in the most perfect condition. It will be well, during the summer, to look over them frequently, and if any of them show disease in the leaf, pull them up at once, as it is useless to save such as are feeble and un- healthy. It may also be well to shade the young vines for the first month or so, to prevent the sun from scald- ing them while yet young and tender, and if any of them grow remarkably strong, give them small sticks for sup- port. In the following spring they may be transplanted to their permanent location in the vineyard or garden. The ground for their reception should be moderately light and rich, and loosened to the depth of at least 18 inches. Make a hole about 8 inches deep, then throw in soil so as to raise a small mound in the center of the hole, about 2 inches high ; shorten the top of the young vine to about 6 inches, and then place it on the mound, spreading its roots well in all directions; fill up with well pulverized soil, until the upper eye is even with the sur- face of the ground. Then press the soil lightly, place a good stake about 4 feet high with each vine, and when the buds start, allow but one sprout to grow, wdiich is to be tied neatly to the stake. The vines may be planted in rows 6 feet apart, and 3 feet apart in the rows, as many of them will prove worthless, and have to be dis- carded. Allow all the laterals to grow on the young cane, as this will make it stocky and short- jointed. Cultivate well and frequently, keeping the soil loose and mellow. The second season the seedlings will generally make from 3 to 4 feet of short- jointed growth ; in the fall of that year they should be cut back to about three 18 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING buds, and have the ground drawn up around them for protection in winter. Should any of them look very promising, fruit may be obtained a year sooner by graft- ing the wood of the seedlings upon strong vines. Young vines thus grafted will generally bear the next season (see “ Grafting,” on another page). Next spring, which will be their third, remove the covering, and w T hen the young shoots appear, allow only two to grow. After these have grown about 18 inches, pinch off the top of the weakest of the two shoots, so as to throw the growth into the strongest shoot, which is to be kept neatly tied to the stake or trellis, treating it as the summer before, and allowing all the laterals to grow. At the end of this season’s growth they should be strong enough to bear the next summer. If they have made from eight to ten feet of stocky growth, the leading cane may be cut back to ten or twelve eyes, or buds, and the smaller one to a spur of two eyes. If the vines will fruit at all, they will show it the next summer, when only the most promising ones should be kept, and the barren and worthless ones discarded. Seedlings have this peculiarity : both the berry and bunch will increase in size every year for the first three or four years ; therefore, if the quality of the fruit is only good, the size may come in time. The fruit of the Elvira (of which more hereafter), which is now about as large in bunch and berry as Catawba, was at first not more than half its present size, it having increased in dimensions every year for the last eight years. AND WINE MAKING. 19 CHAPTER III. PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS IN THE OPEN AIR. The easiest and most simple mode of propagating the vine is by cuttings planted in the open ground; it can be successfully followed with the majority of the Labrusca and cordifolia varieties, and a few of those from the mstivalis , although the latter will not take root readily, and had better be propa- gated by layering and grafting. The most general method is the following : In fall, when pruning the vines, choose the best ripened wood of medium size, which is better than either the very large or very small, and cut it into lengths of from 9 to 12 inches, cutting close below the lower bud, and about an inch above the upper, as in figure 1. Figure 2 shows a cutting with part of the old wood attached ; cuttings of this kind will generally root more readily than the other. These cuttings will mostly average three to four buds each ; tie them in convenient bundles of 100 to 250 each, taking care to make their lower ends even, and keep them either in a cool, moist cellar, or bury them out-doors in well drained ground, with the upper ends downwards, cover- ing up well with finely pulverized soil. The making of Fig. 1. Fig. 2. CUTTINGS— ALL NEW AND PART OLD WOOD. 20 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING cuttings may be continued during winter, although they will root more readily if cut early, and there is also no danger of frost injuring the buds. In spring, so soon as the ground is dry enough, the cutting bed should be prepared. Choose for this a light, rich soil, pulverized at least a foot deep ; if not light and rich enough, it can be made so by well-decomposed leaf mould. Make a cut along the whole length of the bed with the spade, deep enough to receive the whole length of the cuttings, and press these well down into it, so that the upper buds are even with *the surface of the earth ; fill up with loose soil, and press it down firmly with the foot along the line, so as to pack it well around the cut- tings. The cuttings may be put close in the row, say 1 to 2 inches apart, and the rows 2 to 3 feet apart, so as to allow of cultivation either by hand, plow, or cultivator. After the bed is finished, mulch with spent tan, sawdust, or leaf mould, so as to protect the young shoots from the sun; maintain a moist and even temperature during sum- mer, and keep the soil open and porous. Keep the soil of the cutting bed clean during the sum- mer. The young vines will generally make a hard, firm growth 1 to 4 feet in length the first summer ; they will make their roots just where they ought to be, and will be by far the best plants for general use, being pre- ferable to vines raised either from single eyes or by layers. In the fall they should be carefully taken up, and heeled-in in well pulverized soil, deep enough to cover the crowns, first assorting, so as to make them as even in size as possible for planting. They are then ready for setting in the vineyard, and a good strong one-year-old vine is, beyond a doubt, the best for that purpose. AND WINE MAKING. 21 CHAPTER IV. PROPAGATING THE VINE BY LAYERS. 1 a A 11 varieties of the grape may be readily increased by layering, but it is especially valuable for those hard- wooded varieties of the aestivalis species, which will not grow readily from cuttings, and vines thus propagated will, if handled rightly, make very good plants. To layer a vine, shorten in the canes of the last season’s growth to about one-half their length, then, early in the spring, pre- pare the ground by the use of the spade or fork, to thoroughly pulverize it. Make a small furrow about an inch deep, bend down the cane and fasten it firmly in the bottom of the furrow, with wooden hooks or pegs. The canes may be left thus until the young shoots have grown from 6 to 12 inches, then fill up around them with fine soil or leaf mould. Canes so layered will generally strike root at every joint. The shoots may be tied to small sticks, and when they have grown a foot, their tops should be pinched to make them more stocky. In the fall take them up carefully, commencing to dig at the end furthest from the vine, and separate the plants, by cutting between the joints, so that each shoot has a system of roots by itself. They are then either planted immedi- ately, or heeled in, as described for vines from cuttings, to be planted in the spring. 22 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING CHAPTER V. GRAFTING THE VINE. The advantages of grafting are : 1. The facility by which new and rare varieties may be rapidly increased by grafting on strong, healthy old vines ; thus treated they often grow from 10 to 20 feet the first season, producing an abundance of wood to propagate from. A striking illustration of this may be seen in the vineyards of Messrs. Poeschel & Scherer, at Hermann, Mo., who commenced five years ago with five eyes of the Elvira, and now have 2,500 bearing vines of that variety, all grafted on strong Concord stocks. 2. The short time in which fruit can be obtained of new and untried varieties, as the grafts will generally bear the second season. 3. The facility by which vines of varieties, the fruit of which may be worth- less, can be changed into valuable bearing vines. 4. The advantage it offers to us in avoiding that invidious enemy, the Phylloxera, as we can graft varieties, the roots of which are subject to its ravages on those kinds which are Phylloxera proof, and can facilitate the growth of natur- ally weak varieties, and make them more vigorous, by grafting on strong growing stocks. 5. Varieties which will not grow readily from cuttings can generally be grafted easily ; hence this method is especially valuable to increase the varieties of cestivalis. The vine, however, does not graft with the same ease as the apple and pear, and it is, therefore, a more uncer- tain operation. Moreover, to insure success, it should be grafted below the ground, w r hich makes it a disagreeable operation, and one quite difficult to perform, hence it will hardly become a general practice. But for the pur- poses above mentioned, the operation is sufficiently im- portant to make it desirable that every vineyardist should be able to perform it. AND WINE MAKING. 23 Here, tlie best success generally is attained when we graft in March, although it may be done as late as May. Dig away the ground around the vine, until a smooth place upon the stem is found, then cut it off smoothly, and insert one or two scions, as in common cleft grafting, taking care to cut the lower part of the scion to a very thin wedge, as shown in figure 3, leaving two eyes on the scion to insure better success. Care should be taken to insert the scion properly, as the inner bark or liber of the vine is very thin, and the success of the operation depends upon a perfect junction of the stock and scion. If the vine is strong enough to hold the scion firmly, no bandage is necessary ; if not, the scion should be tied with a ligature of bast, or Bass-wood bark, applied evenly and firmly. Finish the operation by pressing the earth firmly around the cut, and fill up with fine soil to the top of the scion, or cover it up with sawdust. Examine the stock often, and remove all suckers that appear from time to time, as they will rob the graft of its nourishment. Do not be discouraged if the scion does not start at once. Scions will often remain dormant for a month, and then start and grow with astonishing vigor ; such are gen- erally more sure to grow than those which start prematurely, before a firm junction is effected between the stock and graft. This is an old method of propagating which has been very successful with me. Another, and a very good SC io^’ fob one, is the following: “Make a slanting cut grafting. in the stock, from the side, downwards towards the middle, then cut your scion to a simple wedge, and push it down on one side, so as to join the bark of the stock. This has the advantage that the stock need not 24 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING be cut off, in case the scion should not unite with it, and as the fibres of both scion and stock are cut trans- versely, the pores join better. As soon as the scion starts, cut off the stock above it, taking care, however, not to move the scion in the operation.” The following is copied from the Seventh Annual Re- port of the State Entomologist of Missouri (1875); the methods described are mostly to counteract the Phyllox=: era, by establishing the graft upon Phylloxera proof roots, and preventing it from making roots of its own : “ There are several methods of grafting above ground, which I have every reason to believe may be made more successful than grape-growers have hitherto supposed ; the first is, by making a false surface and grafting in the manner just described, but instead of digging away the earth and inserting the scion several inches below ground, it should be inserted above ground, and the earth thrown up around it, to be removed after the graft is thoroughly and permanently joined. There will be no danger of the graft forming its own roots, and it is certainly as easy to throw the earth around the vine as to dig it away, while the work can be more easily performed above than below the surface. No doubt this method of grafting needs greater care, especially in dry seasons, as the mound is more apt to dry out than the level ground. Yet there is evidence that this method will work well in our soil and climate. Mr. Jno. Valle t, of New Haven, Mo., a grape- grower of much experience, has had good success in this grafting above ground, using flax twine and pawpaw bark for bandages. He considers that the vine grows more vigorously (which I am inclined to doubt), and that there is less danger of separating the graft when the union is once formed, as it is not necessary to go below ground to destroy the suckers, by which the grafts are sometimes disturbed.” The second method is by inarching. This system of EXPERIMENT STATION Mir, AND WINE MAKING. )\ M 23 1883 25 grafting does not seem to have beW^aPtisMl nrrty/Mn this country ; yet, while it requires great care, and may not be as generally successful as the former methods, I hope more attention will, in future, be given to it. The operation is simple : A slice of 2 or 3 inches long is cut from one side of the vine to be grafted with, and a similar slice from the one which is to serve as stock, as near to the base as possible (of course, graft and stock must be close together). The two cut portions are then brought face to face, so as to fit neatly, and are bound together with Bass-wood bark, or other grafting bandage, and wrapped in moss, which should be kept moist. In the course of a fortnight, partial union takes place, when the bandage should be slightly loosened, to allow of ex- pansion. In six or eight weeks, if successful, the stock and scion are firmly united, when the bandage may be removed. The graft immediately below the union, and the stock immediately above it, should then be cut in a week or two.” This method has been success- fully followed by Mr. Eugene Cambre, of Nauvoo, 111. s. Mr. Cambre, in giving his experience, writes : “ I have positively abandoned cleft grafting ; it is too much trouble and too uncertain, and the graft often makes its own roots. I assure you that from a long experience in inarching, I am of the opinion that not alone the Dela- ware, but most of our cultivated varieties, will do better on native wild roots than on their own. I have 14 acres of vines mostly grafted in this manner on wild stocks, and I have not lost one of such grafts. It is preferable to graft at from 10 to 15 inches from the ground.” Another mode of grafting above ground is thus given in “ The Cultivation of the Grape,” by W. C. Strong : “In 6 The Gardeners’ Monthly/ Yol. II., p. 347, is a description of a mode practised with success by Mr. Cor- nelius, which we copy, not merely as it is interesting in 2 20 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING itself, but also because it illustrates many other modifica- tions in grafting : ‘ After the first four or five leaves are formed, and the sap is flowing, you choose the place on the vine where you intend to graft. At that point wrap tightly a twine sev- eral times around the vine. This will, in a measure, pre- vent the return sap. ‘ Below the ligature, make a sloping cut down, as shown at figure 4, a ; also, a similar reversed one above the ligature, as at b, about one inch in length. In selecting a scion prefer one that has naturally a bend. Cut it so that it shall be wedge shaped at both ends, and a little longer than the distance between the cuts in the vine at a and b. Insert the scion, taking care to have the barks in direct contact, securing it with a string, c , bound round both scion and vine suf- ficiently tight to force the scion ends into their places. If the work is done well, no tie will be required at a and b, but the joints should be covered with grafting wax. In a short time, the bud at d will commence its growth, after which you can by degrees remove all the growing shoots not belonging to the scion, and in course of the sum- mer you may cut off the wood above b , and in the fall remove all above a on the stock, and above c on the scion.” “ Still another mode of grafting remains to be mentioned, which has, I believe, seldom, if ever, been attempted in this part of the country, but which has been employed with much satisfaction the past year by a few vine growers in France, and especially by AND WINE MAKING. 27 M. H. Bouscliet, of Montpelier. It is the winter graft- ing of a cutting of such variety as is desired to grow upon another which is to be used as stock, the combined cuttings being planted in the usual manner in spring, leav- ing only the buds on the graft proper out of the ground. This is very similar to our ordinary mode of making apple grafts ; and while we have little or no experience in this country on which to base antic- ipations, the method is worthy of trial, and is illustrated at figure 5.” “But not to weary with details, I here reaffirm my belief, strength- ened by each further observation, and by every additional experience of the past year, that just as the working of the Eoot-louse is the primal cause of failure of some of our choicest varieties of the grape- vine, so in judicious grafting we have the most available means of counteracting its work, and of thus growing successfully many of those kinds which cannot be grown in this latitude with any profit or success on their own roots/’ I have omitted propagation by single eyes, as this method is now only followed by nurserymen, for the pur- pose of increasing new and valuable varieties. As it in- volves the expense of a propagating house, it can be of little value to the vineyardist, and those who intend to follow it professionally, are generally proficient already. Fig. 6. Fig. 5. GRAFTED CUTTINGS— PART OLD AND ALL NEW WOOD. 28 AMERICAN CRAPE CROWING CHAPTER VI. THE VINEYARD.— LOCATION, ASPECT, AND SOIL. As the selection of a proper location for the vineyard is of first importance, and one of the main conditions of success, great care and judgment should be exercised in the choice. Nearly any soil will grow grapes, at least for the table, and some varieties are so hardy and thrifty, that they can be grown almost anywhere, but with grapes on a large scale, either for market or wine, or both, good and paying results will only be reached in the best locations. When writing my first little book I was under the im- pression that the hillsides along our larger streams were best adapted to the growth and health of the vine. After six years’ experience in Southwest Missouri, on the prairies and high uplands removed from all larger streams, I have changed my opinion entirely, and now believe that the dry atmosphere and cool breezes of these uplands are much more conducive to the health of the vine. We know but little of rot or mildew here, even in the last five exceedingly wet summers, when the grape crop along the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, with the exception of a few such ironclads as Norton’s Virginia, Cynthiana, Ives, and Elvira, was almost a failure. Those localities may generally be considered safe for the grape, in which there are no miasmatic influences. Where malaria and fevers prevail, there is no safety for the crop, as the vine seems to be as susceptible to such influences as human beings. Keeping this fact in view, we may consider our high table lands and hillsides, where the vines are fully ex- AND WINE MAKING. 29 posed to the prevailing winds in summer, our best loca- tions. These are also generally free from frost late in spring and early in fall, which is another important con- sideration for the vineyardist. The soil should be natur- ally well drained, as the vine does not like to have “ wet feet ; ” therefore, tenacious sub-soils, so-called “ hard- pans,” should be avoided. I have seen equally good results in limestone as in sandstone soils, though it will generally hold good that a sandy, and at the same time moderately rich soil, is better adapted to most of our varieties than heavy clay. We have thousands of such locations, and no where have I seen more beautiful grapes than on the sandstone hills around Warrensburg, in this State, (a neighborhood noted at the same time for its famous sandstone quarries,) although the hillsides, at first sight, appear rather poor. The professional grape-grower, therefore, can find abundant scope, and should certainly look after such locations. The amateur, however, who only wishes to grow grapes on a small scale, and for home use, can easily make his soil light by an addition of sand, and occasionally lime. Let him choose the spot on his grounds which seems best adapted to his purpose, and although he may not grow as rich grapes, yet he will grow them good enough, and abundant enough, if he chooses the proper varieties. 30 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING CHAPTER VII. PREPARING THE SOIL. For the preparation of the soil, the foundation of his work, the grape grower must be guided in his operations by the condition in which he finds his ground. If it is an old field, free from stumps and stones, or a piece of prairie soil, it will be easily prepared. Break up the soil with a good large turning plow and strong team to pull it, and follow in the same furrow with a subsoil stirring plow, which merely loosens the ground ; and do this as deep as possible, if 20 inches, all the better, though 16 inches in all will do if you cannot go deeper. If, however, the land is a new piece of forest soil, the task will be much more difficult. This must be care- fully grubbed of stumps and roots, and although the same implements will, in a measure, suffice, yet the turning plow should have a sharp coulter in front, and the sub- soil plow should also have a strong and sharp coulter, with merely a wedge-shaped, strong share to stir the soil. Besides, much more power will be necessary. In stony soil, the pick and shovel must take the place of the plow, as it would be impossible to work it thoroughly with the latter ; but I think there is no advantage in the old method of trenching or inverting the soil. If we ex- amine the wild vines of our forests, we will generally find their roots running along in the surface soil. It is un- natural to suppose that the vine, the most sun-loving of all plants, should have its roots buried several feet below the surface, where neither sun nor air can reach them. Work the soil well and thoroughly, and as deep as you can, it will be labor well invested ; will be the best pre- ventive against drouth, and the best drainage m wet weather, but leave it in its natural position, and do not AND WINE MAKING. 31 plant too deep. Rest assured if the roots find anything congenial below, they will hunt it up. Should the soil be very poor, it may be enriched by ashes, bone dust, manure, etc., but it will seldom be necessary, as most of our soil is naturally rich enough, and it is not advisable to stimulate the growth too much, as it will become rank and unhealthy, and impair the quality of the fruit. Wet spots may be drained by gutters filled with loose stones or tiles, and then covered with earth. Surface draining can be done by running a small ditch or furrow, every sixth or eighth row, parallel with the hillside, and leading into a main ditch at the middle or end of the vineyard. Steep hillsides should be terraced or benched, but as this is laborious and expensive, they should be avoided. CHAPTER VIII. WHAT GRAPES TO PLANT.— CHOICE OF VARIETIES. This is, indeed, a difficult matter to decide in a vast country like ours, where soil and climate differ so much, and I think it a great mistake into which some of our most prominent grape-growers have fallen, to recommend any grape for general cultivation, simply because it has succeeded with them. Grape growing is, perhaps, more than any other branch of horticulture, dependent upon soil and climate, and it will not do to dictate to the in- habitants of a country where the extremes meet, that they should all plant the same varieties. Yet this has been &>ne by some who pretend to be authorities, recom- mending the same grape for planting North and South, East and West, which certainly shows that they have more arrogance than knowledge. I have seen such widely 32 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING different results, in vineyards closely adjoining, that I have become reluctant to recommend, even to my nearest neighbor, what he should plant. In the East and North the demand is still for some- thing earlier than we yet have, while here in the West we do not desire the early grapes so much, at least, not for wine making purposes. The earliest, so far, seem to come from the Labrusca ; those who desire still earlier grapes, will have to look to these mostly, and it seems as if the Early Champion is a step in that direction, being better, and, as its friends claim, ten days earlier than the Hartford Prolific. From Southern Texas my friend and correspondent, Gr. Onderdonk, of Victoria, writes to me, that it is useless to cultivate the Labrusca there, as it will not succeed, and their grapes are emphatically the Warren (or Herbemont), and the Black Spanish (so-called, but the true Lenoir ), both belonging to aestivalis of the Southern class. The varieties of Labrusca cannot stand their summers, and this fact, with their failure in France, where also they can not stand their hot and arid sum- mers, lead me to the supposition that their tendency to root near the surface is the cause of it. The varieties of aestivalis and cordifolia all root deeper, and are, there- fore, better calculated to withstand the severe drouths. We, here in Missouri, are centrally located, and while it will be well to cultivate some of the early varieties of the Labrusca for market and early table, our reliance for the main crop will, in future, be the aestivalis and cordi- folia, all the more so, as they are exempt from the rav- ages of that insidious little enemy, the Phylloxera, to which the greater part of the Labrusca varieties are sub- ject, and which may be, in a great measure, the cause of their frequent failure. With these few general remarks, which may serve somewhat to guide the planter in a selection, I will now describe a few of the most promi- nent and reliable of each class of the older varieties. Fig. 7. — QCETHE (ROGERS’ HYBRID NO. 1). (33) AND WINE MAKING. 35 together with some of the most promising, giving at the end a list of varieties which promise to be generally suc- cessful for the East and North, one for the central sec- tion of our country, and one for the extreme South. CHAPTER IX. LABRUSCA CLASS, WITH THEIR HYBRIDS. Concord. — This is too well known to need any particu- lar description. It was considered, until lately, one of the most reliable and productive, but for the last few years has rotted so badly, that it is now considered unre- liable by a great many. The fruit is of fair quality, very handsome, too soft to carry well to market, and will not keep. Will, with skillful handling and a little artificial heat, make a wine of fair quality, of a very en- livening and invigorating character, which is emphati- cally the “ poor man’s ” drink, as it can be produced cheap, and is just the beverage he needs, instead of the poison- ous compounds called whiskey and brandy. A rampant and hardy grower, not subject to Phylloxera, and will, perhaps, bear more overcropping and neglect than any other. Has been very valuable, but I think will be superseded by better sorts so soon as they become better known. Specific gravity of must 76°. Catawba. — Also too well known to need description. Although very unreliable, it yet holds its place among wine grapes, especially on the Lakes, and although I would not recommend it generally, it does succeed in some sections, and is a good grape where it can be grown, making a high-flavored and sprightly wine. It is very much subject to the attacks of Phylloxera, and this alone 36 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING is enough to make any one hesitate to plant it, when varieties so much better can he had. Specific gravity of must 80°. On a recent trip I have seen the Catawba in such perfection on the Lakes in Western New York, that it would seem to me it is still the grape for them. When they can grow from fifteen to twenty pounds to the vine, as I have seen on Crooked Lake, without a rotten berry, or blemish, and the must going up to 96°, they ought to plant Catawba still, although I do not consider it a perfect grape even there. Essex. — ( Rogers’ Hybrid No. 41). This is a beautiful and good grape, and with me, has generally given satis- faction. Bunch medium, shouldered ; berry very large, double the size of Concord, round, black, with blue bloom ; skin thin, pulp tender, juicy, sweet, and vinous, with hardly any native aroma. Vine a good grower, abundant bearer, and little subject to disease. Ripens with Concord. Gcethe. — ( Rogers ’ Hybrid No. 1). For us in the West this is one of the most reliable and best of all the La - brusca class, and has no foxiness, but some of the flavor of its vinifera parent. I have seen it succeed equally well near Baltimore and Washington City. Many have failed to succeed with this, and also others of the Rogers’ Hybrids, for the simple reason that the vines are luxuriant growers and very abundant bearers, and the vines were taxed beyond their strength when young; did not ripen their fruit or wood well, and were enfeebled for years to come. But with rather short pruning, severe thinning of the fruit when young, and allowing the vine only from 10 to 15 lbs. of fruit per year, good results can be gained nearly every year. This will apply to all the Rogers’ Hybrids. Bunch medium to large, rather loose, shouldered ; berry very large, oblong, very good when yet white, when it resembles the Malaga, pale red when fully AND WINE MAKING. 39 ripe; skin thin, pulp tender, juicy, sweet, and luscious, with fine Frontignan flavor. Fine for table and market, and makes a very delicate white wine, superior to Catawba. Specific gravity of must 80°. Vine a strong, rampant grower, with peculiar mottled foliage, ; generally healthy and hardy, though occasionally subject to rot. Eipens with Catawba. Fine on the Lakes, though it develops a stronger feline flavor there. Ives. — Whoever is satisfied with a grape which is healthy and hardy, and an abundant bearer, but of very poor quality, may plant the Ives. I confess that I would rather not have any grapes if I could not have better than the Ives. It is well enough known to need no de- scription, and, in fact, deserves none, but it will yield an abundance of fruit, which will color early, generally spoils the market for good grapes ; hangs well to the bunch, and will do for stewing and preserving, also makes a tolerable Claret wine, if allowed to hang very long, and fortified with sugar. Specific gravity of must 72°. Lindley. — ( Rogers ’ Hybrid No. 7). Bunch large and long, moderately compact, shouldered; berry medium, about the size of Catawba, round, pale red, with beautiful violet bloom, sweet, juicy, and high flavored ; skin not thick, but tough, which makes it keep excellently. Ripens about the same time as Catawba ; an abundant bearer, a strong, long-jointed grower, and a valuable table and market grape, especially on account of its keeping qualities, though too high flavored for wine. Martha. — Originated with Samuel Miller, at Calmdale, Pa., and has long held its place as “ the best white grape for everybody,” on account of its health, productiveness, and fair quality for table and wine. It is a seedling of the Concord, and a decided improvement on it. Bunch medium, moderately compact, shouldered ; berry medium, 40 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING smaller than Concord, round, greenish-yellow, with white bloom ; skin thin, pulp softer than in Concord, juicy and sweet; good when just colored; when dead ripe it be- comes somewhat insipid and foxy. Vine a strong, healthy grower, succeeding on almost any soil ; fruit less liable to rot than Concord, and containing more sugar ; also retains but little of its foxy character in its wine, which resembles good Catawba. Specific gravity of must 85°. This is certainly a valuable grape, as it is also even hardier than the Concord, but will now, it is very likely, be superseded by the Elvira. Massasoit. — A very early grape of excellent quality. Bunch medium, compact, shouldered ; berry above medium, pale red, with lilac bloom, slightly oblong, very juicy, sweet and fine flavored ; the best early grape I know, ripens about as early as Hartford Prolific, and when merely soft, is better than Hartford at its prime. Is full as early as Delaware, to my taste better, and will succeed more generally than that. A beautiful and good market and table grape, and also makes a very fine wine. Vine a good grower and bearer. Specific gravity of must 85°. Perkins.— Those who do not object to a good deal of foxy aroma, will be pleased with this, as it is very early, hardy, and productive. Bunch medium, rather loose, shouldered ; berry oblong, pale red, with fine lilac bloom, sweet, but foxy; apt to drop from the bunch when very ripe. Ripens as early as Hartford Prolific, healthy, hardy, and very productive ; generally sells well in mar- ket ; a strong grower, with thick, leathery leaves. Salem. — Bunch full medium, compact, shouldered ; berry large, round, of a peculiar brownish color, with lilac bloom ; juicy and sweet, with a peculiar pleasant aroma ; considered by Mr. Rogers to be the best of his Hybrids, but it is not so generally successful here as Goethe, AND WINE MAKING. 43 Bindley, Massasoit, and Wilder. It is very apt to over- bear, and should be thinned severely. Ripens about same time as Catawba. Telegraph, or Christine. — An early grape of very fair quality. Bunch medium, very compact, shouldered ; berry medium, black, with blue bloom, juicy, sweet, and good for so early a grape, as it ripens with Hartford Pro- lific. A strong and healthy grower, dark brown wood, and very productive, though sometimes rotting severely. Wilder. — ( Rogers’ No. 4). A beautiful and very good grape. Bunch large and heavy, shouldered, moder- ately compact ; berry large, round, black, with blue bloom, tender pulp, sweet, juicy, and refreshing, without foxiness, ripens earlier than Concord, and is nearly as large and as good as Black Hamburg. Vine a good grower, and generally healthy, but very apt to overbear, and the fruit should be thinned severely. Fine for table and market, and makes an agreeable light, red wine. Specific gravity of must 78°. These are the most prominent and best tried of the Labrusca class. The following are of good quality, but have not been so generally tried ; they may be classed as Promising well ” : Aminia. — ( Rogers’ 39). Bunch medium, moderately compact, shouldered ; berry full medium, round, black, sweet, vinous, very good. Ripens earlier than Hartford, and is much better in quality ; may, therefore, be valuable for early market. Somewhat subject to rot. Vine a good and clean grower, very productive. Barry. — ( Rogers’ 43). Bunch full medium, moder- ately compact, shouldered ; berry large, round, black, with blue bloom, in quality much like Wilder, though a little more astringent ; vine a good grower and bearer ; ripens with Concord. A handsome market and table grape. Very successful on the Lakes, and at Rochester. 44 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING Beauty. — One of the seedlings of Mr. Jacob Rommel, a cross between Delaware and Maxatawney ; has been vigorous and healthy so far ; a strong grower, and very productive. It has fruited seven years in succession. Bunch full medium, compact, shouldered ; berry about the size and color of Catawba, oblong, covered with lilac bloom. Ripens here the last week in August. Sweet, ex- quisite flavor ; thin, but rather tough skin, tender pulp. This promises to keep well, and as the bunches are very even and attractive in appearance, it may be a very valu- able market grape, as it is superior in quality to Dela- ware; and as it excels the Catawba in fine and delicate flavor, and is without its harshness and austerity in pulp, it will very likely make a very fine, high flavored wine. I consider this the most promising of all our varieties of the Labrusca. Black Eagle. — Originated with Mr. Stephen Under- hill, at Croton Point, N. Y. A hybrid of Labrusca and vinifera. A new early table grape of very fine quality. Bunch large, moderately compact, shouldered ; berry large, oval, black, with blue bloom, flesh rich and melt- ing, with little pulp. The vine is a straight, handsome grower, the leaf deeply lobed, dark green and heavy; shape of the foreign. Very promising so far. Black Defiance. — Same origin as the preceding. A hybrid between St. Peters and Concord. Bunch large ; berry large, above Concord, black, with a fine bloom, sweet, vinous, and juicy ; ripens several weeks later than Concord, and should it prove healthy and hardy, is about the best late black table grape we have. Early Champion. — Brought out by J. S. Stone, Charlotte, New York. Said to be ten days earlier than Hartford Prolific, of better quality, very hardy and pro- ductive, and if this is so, it certainly deserves trial as an early market grape. AND WINE MAKING. 45 Eva. — A sister of the Martha, raised by my friend Miller, at the same time, but has been sadly neglected. Our friend Campbell claims that it is better than Martha. To me it seems to be nearly the same. Lady. — Mr. George W. Campbell claims for this that it is the best and earliest white grape now grown, and it is certainly a good and beautiful fruit, when just colored. I had occasion to taste it a number of times, and found it best when just soft ; the riper it gets, the more insipid and foxy it becomes. So far it has not given satisfaction as a grower and bearer here, and has also rotted badly ; but friend Campbell generally knows whereof he affirms, and it must be good in Northern Ohio, from all I can learn. Bunch medium, compact ; berry full medium, pale yellow, with white bloom, pulp tender, sweet, juicy. Said to be ten days earlier than Concord. Triumph. — A hybrid between Chasselas Musque and Concord, grown by Geo. W. Campbell, Delaware, Ohio, and considered by him too late for that section, and wanting in character. Here in Missouri it ripens to per- fection, and is certainly one of the most attractive white grapes for the table I have yet seen. Friend Miller, of Bluffton, has it in propagation, and has fruited it sev- eral years. Bunch large and heavy, shouldered, moder- ately compact ; berry very large, golden-yellow, transpar- ent, with delicate bloom ; skin thin, pulp tender, sweet, juicy, and excellent. Ripens about with Catawba. It seems to be hardy and tolerably healthy, as it has rotted less than Concord, and it, therefore, certainly deserves a trial, as such grapes as it produces are a feast to any one, and would readily sell at 25 cents per pound. Succeeded finely here last summer. On a recent Eastern round among the vineyards of Western New York, I examined the following, which I 46 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING think may safely be added to the list of “ Promising well.’ 5 The Prentiss and Mr. Ricketts’ seedlings I saw on the grounds of the originators, at Crooked Lake and at Newburgh, and under circumstances which I thought not at all favorable to their highest development. I think it my duty to state this, as I had been led to be- lieve that Mr. Ricketts’ seedlings had been petted, pam- pered, and protected, all of which I found just the re- verse, and came to the conclusion that the treatment they received was not at all calculated to develop their best points. Brighton. — Seen on the grounds of Mr. E. Hooker, Rochester. Vine very productive, foliage moderately healthy, though perhaps not so healthy as Concord. Bunch large, shouldered ; berry medium, about size of Catawba, round, brownish-red, very handsome, sweet, without being insipid ; to my taste better than Dela- ware, because more vinous ; pulp tender, very juicy. Very promising. Early Dawn. — Good in quality, said to be very early, hardy, and productive. Bunch medium ; berry full me- dium, black, sweet, and good. Moore’s Early. — Seen at the exhibition at Rochester. Although not very good in quality, it is a very handsome bunch and berry, and seems to be especially valuable at the North, on account of its extreme earliness. Bunch very large and shouldered, compact ; berry large, resem- bling Wilder in size and form, black, fair in quality, but not high flavored or tender in pulp. Its chief value seems to be its early ripening, vigor, and hardiness. Niagara. — Seeds planted in 1868, first fruited by Hoag & Clark, of Lockport, N. Y., in 1872. Cross be- tween Concord and Cassady ; bunch very large and heavy, compact ; berry large, slightly oblong, semi-trans- parent, greenish-white, bronzed in sun, adheres well AND WINE MAKING. 47 to the bunch, flesh tender, sweet and melting, good flavor, skin tough, and bears handling well ; said to be as early as Hartford in ripening, but keeps well on the vine ; foliage thick and healthy, vine strong grower and hardy, bears very abundantly. This is the description of the originators. They say that a vine four years planted, is bearing 40 lbs. of superior fruit. I saw the grape at Rochester, and was pleased with size of bunch, quality, and general appearance. A promising market grape. Pocklington. — This is, certainly, a “big thing though not of the best, or even very good quality, will sell. A seedling from Concord, grown by John Pocklington, of Sandy Hill, Washington Co., N. Y. Vine a strong grower, with immense leaves, very heavy in texture, and is said to never mildew. Bunch very large and heavy, shouldered ; berry nearly an inch in diameter, pale yellow, covered with bloom, round, quality about like Concord. It was not fully ripe when I saw it. Mr. John Chorlton, who offers it for sale, claims that it becomes very juicy and sweet to the center. Very promising as a market grape. Duchess. — Originated with Mr. N. J. Caywood, Ulster Co., N. Y., who also originated the Walter, and I will only hope that this will be more generally successful. Bunch medium to large, often 8 inches long, shoulder- ed, compact ; berry medium, round, greenish-white ; skin thin, flesh tender, without pulp, sprightly, rich and vinous. Its originator claims for it that it has been grown in different localities, North and South, for the last ten years, and has never failed ; that it has but one small seed, that it will hang on the vines until frost, bear transportation better than any other variety, and that it excels in growth the Concord, Clinton, and Taylor. When we remember how Mr. Caywood also claimed su- 48 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING perior excellence and hardiness for the Walter, which has so utterly failed in most sections that it is now rarely seen, we would accept his testimony with a good deal of caution, and make allowance for his enthusiasm, but the quality and appearance of the fruit, as we saw it, certainly warrants trial. Prentiss. — This is now in the hands of that enter- prising grape-grower, T. S. Hubbard, of Fredonia, N. Y., and not yet offered for sale. He sent me a bunch in 1878, which impressed me very favorably. The show at Rochester was grand, and I determined to see it on the grounds of its originator, and copy from the notes taken there. Mr. Prentiss is an enthusiastic grape-grower, but very cautious in recommending anything new, which, perhaps, has kept his seedling in the dark so long, as he has fruited it for nearly twenty years. The original vine stands in rather a poor location, on the side of a ravine, and had an immense load of fruit, but made a good growth of wood nevertheless. I think its present crop would come to 25 lbs. at least. The bunches were all perfect, though backward in ripening. It is a seedling of Isabella ; bunch medium, very compact, occasionally shouldered ; berry medium, slightly oblong, resembling Rebecca very closely, and about the same quality, green- ish-white ; skin tough and firm, enabling it to carry to market in good condition ; sweet and good, though not of high character. Mr. Prentiss has quite a number of vines of it in bearing, in different parts of the vineyard, all heavily loaded. Foliage also resembles Rebecca, but is larger, not so deeply lobed, thicker, and more leathery. He ships to New York markets, and readily obtains 16 cents per pound for all he can send of the Prentiss. The particular location near the lake may have something to do with this eminent success, but the grape certainly deserves trial as a market grape in other sections. I think it lacks the sprightliness of a good wine grape. Fig. 10.— prentiss. — (From a Ihotograph .) AND WINE MAKING. 51 Mr. Pentiss has also two other seedlings, which I think highly promising, not yet named, of which I made the following notes : No. 1. — Bunch very compact, seldom shouldered, me- dium ; berry medium, round, black, with blue bloom, yery sweet, pulp tender, buttery, taste pure, without foxiness, with considerable coloring matter in its skin. Ripens fully as early as Concord ; promising for red wine ; vine a good grower, healthy, and productive ; fruited about 5 years; never rotted. No. 2. — Bunch long, loose, not shouldered ; berry round, a trifle larger than Catawba, dark red, pulp tender, vinous, fine flavor, better than Catawba, with «, very pleasant mingling of acid and sweet ; seems to be healthy and productive ; fruited for the first time. Mr. Ricketts 5 seedlings : Foremost among these, in our estimation, is the Lady Washington, which is a magnificent grape w and its robust growth and large, leathery leaves, give promise of health elsewhere as well as in its native locality. The original vine has now fruited five seasons. It is a seed- ling of Concord, crossed with Allen’s Hybrid. Bunch very large and long, rather loose, shouldered, often weighing a pound and a half ; berry full medium, round, white, with a rosy tint when exposed to the sun, trans- parent, juicy, sweet, and good. Jefferson. — This is now in the hands of Mr. J. G. Burrows, of Fishkill. Cross between Concord and Iona. Vine vigorous and productive, leaves large, thick, downy, wood short-jointed ; bunch very large, often with double shoulder, very compact ; berry large, roundish oval, light red, with thin lilac bloom, flesh meaty, or solid, tender, juicy, sweet, but sprightly. Highland. — Good healthy leaf; large, fine bunch; VNWtRSfW w lUM'AS MBRARI 52 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING berry black, large, round, very showy, and good in quality. Ricketts’ No. 1. — A hybrid of Israella and Muscat Hamburg, fruited for 10 years. Vine very vigorous and productive, wood short- jointed, leaves medium sized, lobed, thick, and overlap ; bunch very large, long, com- pact, shouldered ; berry large, oval, purplish-black, with thick gray bloom, flesh tender, juicy, sweet, rather rich, very good. A promising market grape. No. 11.— Hartford and Muscat. Strong grower, leaf hardy and healthy ; bunch medium, shouldered ; berry above medium, round, pale yellow, sweet, pulp soft, good. Planet. — Concord and Black Muscat of Alexandria. Healthy and productive ; bunch large, loose, shouldered ; berry large, intermixed with some smaller ones, which have no seed, oblong, very tender pulp, juicy, sweet, fine flavor, slight taste of the Muscat. No. 502. — Hartford and Iona. Leaf healthy ; bunch compact, heavy ; berry medium, black, with blue bloom, leathery, resembling Creveling in taste. No. 250. — Ives and Catawba. Strong grower, healthy leaf ; bunch heavy, shouldered, compact ; berry above medium, round, black, blue bloom ; skin tough, fair quality, very handsome, would be a splendid shipping grape. No. 331. — Concord and Herbemont. Foliage resem- bling Concord, healthy, and hardy ; bunch medium, com- pact, shouldered ; berry below medium, round, juicy, rather pulpy, makes a fine, red wine, with a slight almond taste. These are the most promising of the numerous seed- lings of the Labrusca and its hybrids which Mr. Ricketts has originated. He has also a number of cordifolia seed- AND WINE MAKING. 53 lings, which are highly promising, and to which I will refer when I describe that class. Mr. Jacob Madinger, of St. Joseph, Mo., has several Concord seedlings, which may be valuable as showy and handsome market grapes of good quality. I have only seen some dilapidated bunches, too ripe, and roughly handled ; the berries are much larger than Concord, and seem to be of very fair quality. Storm King. — Originated by Mr. E. P. Eoe, Corn- wall-on-the-Hudson, N. Y. Seems to be an accidental sport of a Concord vine, which, as he says, has borne the same mammoth fruit for twelve years. Bunch large and heavy, shouldered ; berry resembling Concord, but nearly twice as large, black, round, with very little foxi- ness; juicy, and good. Cottage. — By Mr. Bull, the originator of the Concord. This is very promising, seems to be a strong grower, earlier than its parent, and of much better quality. I hope to see more of it next season. The following are said to be of good quality, but are not sufficiently known to me to venture an opinion upon their merits : Cambridge, Challenge, Clover Street Bed and Black, Columbia, Concord Chasselas, Concord Mus- cat, Conqueror, Dana, Detroit, Eureka, Flora, Gaertner, Herbert, Irving, Ithaca, Pollock, Rogers’ 5, Senasqua. The following I consider worthless, and think they should be discarded, as we can certainly grow better, or more healthy sorts. Some are of good quality, but tender or unproductive and unhealthy : Adirondack, Alexander, Agawam, Albino, Allen’s Hybrid, Amanda, Anna, Arrott, August Pioneer, Berks, Bland, Blood’s Black, Blue Imperial, Burton’s Early, Camden, Canby’s August, Cassady, Charter Oak, Clara, Macedonia, Cow- an, Croton, Diana, Diana Hamburg, Dracut Amber, Early Hudson, Elizabeth, Framingham, Graham, Hart- 54 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING ford, Hettie, Howell, Iona, Isabella, Israella, King- sessing, Labe, Logan, Lydia, Lyman, Creveling, Maguire, Mary, Maxatawney, Merrimac, Miles, Venango, Mount Lebanon, Mottled, Neff, North America, Northern Mus- cadine, North Carolina, Rebecca, Seneca, St. Catherine, Walter. CHAPTER X. THE AESTIVALIS CLASS. — FOR GENERAL CULTIVATION. Cynthiana. — Synonym, Red River. This most valu- able grape was obtained by me from Wm. R. Prince, who had it from Arkansas, and introduced it into Missouri about 1858. It resembled the Norton so much in growth and foliage, that I supposed it to be identical with it, un- til it bore fruit, and more especially when I made wine from it, when the difference became very apparent. This seeming identity has prevented its dissemination, as many still believe it to be the same, but the bunch is generally heavier, with broader shoulders, the berry somewhat larger, sweeter, and less astringent, and the wine is not quite as dark, less rough and astringent, without that coffee-like taste of the Norton, and much more spicy and delicate, resembling the best Burgundy. Those who have tasted good Cynthiana wine once, will not easily forget it ; and the fact that, besides the innumerable premiums awarded in this country, it was awarded the first premium as “ best red wine of all nations, 55 at the Vienna Exposition, should speak volumes in its praise, and warrant the belief, so often expressed by me, that it will become one of the staples of the country, and can not be excelled anywhere. Bunch medium, compact, shoul- dered ; berry below medium, black, with blue bloom. Fig. 11. — OTNTHIANA. (85) AND WINE MAKING. 57 sweet, and vinous, with dark-red juice, moderately juicy, very rich. Specific gravity of must 118°. Vine a good grower, healthy, and hardy, hut does not grow readily from cuttings, and will not bear much before the third year, when it becomes very productive ; not liable to any disease, and one of the surest we have ; will bear best on spurs on old wood, like the Norton’s. Norton’s Virginia. — Synonyms, Norton’s Seedling, Virginia Seedling. Introduced by Dr. Norton, of Vir- ginia, who found it on an island in the Potomac. Intro- duced into Missouri in 1850. It caused a revolution in grape culture here, as its merits as a uniformly reliable grape for red wine became fully known. There is, per- haps, no other grape which has given such uniform satis- faction as this, and although I have warmly praised and recommended it from the first, I have seen no reason to retract a single word which I have said in its favor. It seems to succeed everywhere, though its products, of course, differ, and I had occasion to admire a splendid exhibition of it at the Centennial, from Egg Harbor City, New Jersey, where I first saw it, and had occasion to try its wine. As made there, it has not the heavy character of our Missouri Norton’s, but is a very good Claret. Bunch and berry smaller than Cynthiana, and not so heavily shouldered ; berry small, black, with blue bloom, with a very dark-colored, astringent juice, though sweet and very spicy when fully ripe. Specific gravity of must 110°. Makes, perhaps, the best medicinal wine in the country; it has already saved thousands of lives, especially of children suffering with summer complaint, and ac- quired a world- wide reputation. Even as a table grape, many prefer it on account of its spicy character, and its plump bunches will keep like winter apples. Perfectly free from Phylloxera and other diseases ; a strong and healthy grower ; bears best on spurs on old arms. As it starts late in spring, it is also not liable to spring frosts. 58 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING Herbemont. — Synonyms, Warren, Warrenton, Herbe- mont’s Maderia. A specifically Southern grape, for which we in Missouri are too far north, but where it is in its proper latitude, one of the very best. Bunch large and heavy, compact, shouldered; berry below medium, black, with blue bloom ; skin thin, no pulp, but its berries are filled with the most spicy and refreshing juice, which that nice discriminator of fruits, the late A. J. Downing, called “bags of wine. 5 ’ Fine for the table, and when pressed immediately, makes an exquisite white wine ; if allowed to ferment on the husks, a pale red wine, some- what resembling Madeira. Should be planted on south- ern locations, in rather poor soil, which is naturally well drained ; it is useless to plant it on rich soils, or those retentive of moisture, as it will grow too rampant, and not ripen its wood. My friend, Onderdonk, of Victoria, Texas, writes to me, that it is the best and most success- ful grape they cultivate, and it has for several years been largely imported into France, as its roots are Phylloxera proof, and it succeeds splendidly there. Eipens rather late, and is somewhat tender even here. It promises to make the foundation of a race of true wine grapes, and if we can obtain seedlings of it, with all the good qualities of the parent, but somewhat earlier and more hardy, they will be all that can be desired. Mr. Onderdonk already reports one seedling, the Harvard, in all respects similar to the Herbemont, but double the size, and may become exceedingly valuable. The Herbemont is a strong and very beautiful grower, very productive, but somewhat subject to a peculiar kind of dry rot. Leaves large and thin, light green, deeply lobed. Specific gravity of must 85°. AND WINE MAKING. 61 CHAPTER XI. THE AESTIVALIS CLASS.— VARIETIES PROMISING WELL. Cunningham. — Synonym, Long. Much like the fore- going in bunch and berry, belonging to the southern branch of the cestivalis class. Bunch very compact, heavy-shouldered ; berry smaller than Herbemont, brown- ish red, with blue bloom ; skin tougher and thicker, ripening about the same time. Not so good for the table, but will make a very heavy wine of a Sherry char- acter, while the Herbemout is more like Rhenish wine. The must is very rich in sugar, but also in acid, and the grape very high flavored. A very strong, short- jointed, late grower, ripening not even as well as the Herbemont, and should, therefore, be cultivated only in the South. It succeeds splendidly in France, and is very highly esteemed there for its fruit, as well as its total resistance to Phylloxera. It has heart-shaped leaves, not lobed. Specific gravity of must 110°. Lenoir. — Synonyms, Devereaux, Black Spanish, Jacques, Jack Grape. There has been a great deal of confusion about this grape, and it has even been con- founded with the Ohio, or Cigar Box, but I think the above is its true name. It is the same which the French have cultivated as Black Spanish, or Jacques, and value so highly, owing to its success in France ; its entire freedom from Phylloxera, and the excellent red wine it makes. I have been thoroughly sifting the question of its identity, and Mr. Onderdonk, who says it is the best grape they grow in Texas, next to the Herbemont, has been indefatigable in his exertions to help me clear up this matter. It is even more southern in its character than the two foregoing. Bunch very long, loose* shoul- 62 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING dered ; berry small, black, with blue bloom ; skin as thin as Herbemont, no pulp, juice very dark red, sweet, and rich, making a splendid deep red wine of exquisite flavor. Specific gravity of must 110°. I have cultivated the vine for a number of years, but had to abandon it, as it evi- dently is too far north here ; in the South it must be very desirable. Vine a strong, rather long-jointed grower, wood brown, leaves very thin, bright green, deeply lobed. Hermann. — A seedling of the Norton, grown by Mr. Francis Langendoerfer, Hermann, Mo. Bunch long, shouldered, moderately compact ; berry smaller than Norton’s, black, with blue bloom, not very juicy, but very high flavored, juice not so dark, and will make a fine golden Sherry wine, if properly handled. It ripens later than Norton’s, and as it is a strong grower and very productive, is certainly worthy of extensive trial here and further south. Specific gravity of must 110°. Mr. Langendoerfer has grown a white seedling of it, resem- bling the parent in berry and bunch, but of a transparent, golden color, of which I have tried the wine, and must pronounce it the most exquisite wine I ever tasted, of a pale yellow color, with the Hermann flavor trebly refined. He also has a white Norton’s Seedling, which also makes fine wine, and as these two are the first white mtivalis yet produced, they promise a new departure in another direction from this valuable class. Very productive, healthy, and hardy at Sedalia last season. Rulander. — This is not the German grape of this name, but also one of the southern cestivalis class. It also makes a very fine wine, of a Sherry character, but has, of late, become rather unproductive. Bunch small, compact, shouldered ; berry small, brownish black, with blue bloom, very sweet, and high flavored. Specific gravity of must 112°. It is a stocky, short-jointed AND WINE MAKING. 63 grower, with grayish wood, heart-shaped, shining leaves, and sometimes very productive, but rather fickle and variable. The same may be said of the Louisiana, which so closely resembles it that it has been confounded with it, but the wine of the Louisiana resembles a very fine Hock, while the Eulander has a Sherry character. Alvey, or Hagar. — An exquisite little grape, the earliest of that class ; so good that the birds will gener- ally take it all. Bunch medium, shouldered, loose ; berry small, shining black ; skin thin, very juicy, sweet and luscious, one of the best in quality I know, and makes a fine red wine. Specific gravity of must 90°. A stocky, short-jointed grower, with heart-shaped leaves, and about the only one of its class which propagates readily from cuttings. Lincoln. — This I suppose to be identical with Black July. Mr. Phifer, of Concord, North Carolina, where it is considerably cultivated, gives it very high praise, as being productive and healthy, and making a fine, high- flavored, light-red wine. I have grafts of it grow- ing ; it has heart-shaped leaves, and seems to be a good healthy grower. Baldwin Lenoir. — Mr. Saunders, Supt. of Public Grounds, at Washington, thinks very highly of this, and as it has fruited for me last year, I can also testify to its good quality. The vine resembles the Norton, in wood and leaf. Bunch small, very compact, shoul- dered ; berry small, round, black, with blue bloom, also resembling Norton, but to my taste sweeter, more juicy, and high flavored. I have no doubt it will make a first class red wine, and should it prove as productive as the Norton and Cynthiana, will be very valuable. Neosho. — This is a wild grape from the woods, culti- vated by Mr. Hermann Jaeger, of Neosho, Mo. That veteran in grape culture, Fr. Muench, of Warren Co., 64 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING Mo., thinks this one of the best grapes he cultivates. It is a strong, rampant grower, very productive, but like all of its class, very difficult to propagate. Bunch heavy, compact, shouldered ; berry below medium, purplish- black, with blue bloom, not very juicy ; the juice is of a much lighter red than that of the Norton, and has a diff- erent flavor, more resembling Sherry. There has been some confusion between this and the Racine, of same origin, but I think the Neosho much more valuable than Racine. Far West. — Mr. Muench also speaks very highly of this variety, which comes from the same neighborhood, and I place great confidence in his judgment. Mr. Jaeger recently sent me a box of eight varieties of grapes, and although I tested them nearly three weeks after they had been sent, I was surprised to find, even after so long a time, such evidences of decided merit. I give descriptions of them as they appeared to me then, and have no doubt that, under the circumstances, it falls far short of what they are when fresh from the vine. As they all come from the same stock, the wild aestivalis , they show perhaps as much improvement as those of any other class. Jaeger’s No. 9. — Bunch compact, shouldered; berry below medium, round, black, with blue bloom, fine flavor, sweet, and good. Promising for wine. Jaeger’s No. 13. — -Bunch large and heavy, compact, shouldered ; berry medium, black, pulpy, dark juice, good flavor. Promising for red wine. Jaeger’s No. 22. — Bunch very heavy, large, and long, compact ; berry about size of Catawba, round, deep purple, sweet, and good. Not as dark a juice as 9 and 13. Jaeger’s No. 32. — Very similar to Norton’s, but ex- ceedingly sweet ; must make a very heavy, dark colored wine. AND WINE MAKING. 65 Racine. — The least valuable, very sweet, but small berry, very pulpy, and full of seeds. Neosho. — Larger bunch and berry than Racine, more juicy, fine flavor, bunch and berry larger than Norton’s, lighter colored juice. White Norton. — Originated with F. Langendoerfer, near Hermann, Mo. Bunch and berry resembling Nor- ton in size, but white ; sweet, fine flavor, and very juicy. Balsiger’s White Norton. — Berry larger than the preceding, more juicy, fine flavor, resembling Elvira somewhat, very good. Discarded Varieties . — Baxter, Ohio, Pauline, Raabe. These are either too unhealthy, or of too poor quality to be worthy of cultivation. CHAPTER XII. CORDIFOLIA CLASS (or riparia, according to Engelmann). This class, so far only represented by varieties of either indifferent quality, such as Clinton, Anghwick, Blue Dyer, Burroughs, Franklin, Huntingdon, Kitchen, New- ark, Marion, Oporto, or such as are rather unproductive or subject to disease, as the Autuchon, Brant, Canada, Cornucopia, Golden Clinton, and Taylor, also has taken a new departure, with the seedlings from Taylor, raised by Mr. Jacob Rommel, and now promises to furnish us the leading white wine grapes of the country, and like- wise valuable market grapes. Had their originator pro- duced nothing but the Elvira, he would be remembered by generations to come, but he is confident that he can still 06 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING surpass it in quality, if not in productiveness and hardi- ness, for the latter would be impossible. Guided by the idea that the Taylor need only be improved in size and productiveness, as its wine was good enough, he sowed the seed of the best Taylor grapes he could find, and now, after nine years of trial with the Elvira, in which it lias never missed an abundant crop, and after careful tests of the wine, I do not hesitate to call it the most useful, and in that sense, the best white grape we have, and were I restricted to one variety only, would unhesi- tatingly choose this. As it is not near as well known as it deserves to be, I will give a full description of it, and I think I can do the grape-growers of our country no greater service, than in prevailing upon them all to try it. Elvira. — Originated with Mr. Jacob Eommel, of Morrison, Mo. , from seed of the Taylor, and fruited first in 1869, but has since improved every year in size of bunch and berry, until, from a very small berry, with small but compact bunch, it has now become as large as Catawba in berry, and almost as large in bunch. Every one should plant it for the following seven reasons : 1. Its extreme hardiness. It has withstood the ex- tremely cold winters of 1872-’73 and 1874-’75, without the slightest injury ; when even the Concord suffered more or less everywhere throughout the State-, the Elvira produced a full crop. 2. Its freedom from disease. It has proved singularly healthy and produced full crops for ten years in succes- sion ; when nearly all varieties rotted badly (except Ives, Norton’s, Cynthiana, and some other seedlings of Mr. Rommel, of whom I shall speak hereafter), the Elvira produced a full crop, averaging, in Mr. Rommel’s vine- yard, from 20 to 25 lbs. to the vine. 3. Its immense productiveness. All the fruit-bearing branches produce from four to six bunches, and a piece AND WINE MAKING. 69 of a bearing cane with clusters about a foot long, weighed eight pounds. 4. Its handsome and vigorous growth. It is a stocky, short-jointed grower, not rambling, like the Taylor and Clinton, but a perfect picture of a vine, having thick, light green and abundant foliage, with pale gray, short- jointed wood, and is, therefore, well adapted to vineyard and arbor culture. 5. Its handsome bunch and berry. This has improved very much since it first fruited, and may still improve. Bunch medium, shouldered, very compact ; berry about the size of the Catawba, round, light green in the shade, pale yellow where more exposed, transparent; skin, thin, pulp tender, very juicy and sweet; flavor fine, pure, with- out foxiness, ripening a few days later than Concord. 6. Its fine quality for wine. The must of the Elvira is about as heavy as good Catawba, if well ripened. Specific gravity 85°. Makes a beautiful greenish-yellow wine, without foxiness, and a delicate and full aroma, resemb- ling Riesling. In this respect it will satisfy even the most fastidious fancier of Rhenish wines, and as it can be produced cheaply, we shall have in it what we have been seeking so long, a true wine grape within the reach of all. 7. Easy propagation. It grows readily from cuttings, and being a Taylor seedling, is likely to be Phylloxera proof, and remain healthy. We are, however, in justice, compelled to say, that it has one fault, which has proved a serious drawback to it in the East during the season of 1879. The bunch is so compact, that the berries crowd each other, and being very thin skinned, they are liable to crack after a drouth, succeeded by a shower of rain. Otherwise, it has proved a complete success, even at the East. 70 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING CHAPTER XIII. THE CORDIFOLIA CLASS.— VARIETIES PROMISING WELL, The following are sisters of the Elvira, and may sur- pass it in quality, but have not been so long and gener- ally tried ; moreover Mr. Rommel does not intend to send them out immediately, if at all, for he says : “ Thej shall prove best in every respect, or not go out at all, as the public have already varieties enough, even too many, unless we can add to the number something much better than we already have. There shall be no humbug in my grapes.” They have fruited six years now, and I also have them fruiting this summer, in an entirely differ- ent locality ; two seasons of further trial will fully show what they are. No one need apply, either to him or me, for any vines or wood until some months yet. No. 5. Transparent. — (Taylor seedling). Bunch medium, somewhat larger than the largest Taylor, and has increased in size already, compact, and shouldered ; berry about same size as Taylor, round, pale yellow, trans- parent, so that the seeds can be seen, with gray dots, no pulp, skin, thin, very juicy, sweet, and of fine flavor. This has always set its fruit perfectly, and as its must contains a large amount of saccharine matter, will make a wine which has hardly had its equal yet. Vine a strong and rather long-jointed grower, resembling its parent in leaf and growth. No. 8. Amber.— (Taylor seedling). Bunch large, shouldered, moderately compact ; berry medium, oblong, pale amber when fully ripe, sweet, juicy ; pulp very ten- der ; skin thin, very fine flavor. Ripens about the same time as Catawba, very productive so far, and entirely hardy and healthy. An exquisite table grape, combining fine quality with attractive appearance, though its skin A ND WINE MAKING. 73 may be too tender to ship to distant markets. It will, no doubt, also make a yery fine white wine. A strong grower, dark brown wood, large and healthy leaves. No. 10. Peakl. — (Taylor seedling). Bunch heavy, larger than Elvira, compact, shouldered ; berry full me- dium, round, pale yellow, covered with a delicate bloom; skin thin and transparent; pulp soft and melting, juicy, sweet, and high flavored; of great promise both as a table and wine grape ; very productive and healthy so far. Ripens a few days later than Concord. Vine a strong healthy grower, large, bright green leaves, and grayish wood. Mr. R. has a great number of other seedlings. One, a Delaware seedling, black, which ripens four or five days before the Hartford, and may become valuable as an early market grape, as it is of good quality. No. 12, much re- sembling Elvira, may also be valuable. - No. 20. — A black Taylor seedling, with a peculiar plum- like consistency and flavor, very agreeable. Another ac- cidental seedling which Mrs. Rommell found and saved, is the most delicate berry I ever saw, with a skin as thin and transparent as cobwebs, pale green, no pulp, and very sweet ; flavor, pure. So far the bunch is very loose, though it sets an immense number of them. Mr. Rom- mel made some wine of it this fall, which he thinks the finest he has yet tasted. Should the bunch improve, it may become one of our most valuable wine grapes. No. 14. —A black Taylor seedling, which promises very highly for red wine. A seedling of the Elvira, which he thinks far superior to its parent, has fruited but once, and shows evidences of great merit. Uhland. — This is another Taylor seedling, highly promising for white wine, grown by Mr. Wm. Weyde- meyer, at Hermann. It makes a heavier and higher flavored wine than Elvira, but the leaf is hardly so heavy 4 74 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING and healthy, suffering more from sun scald. Bunch me- dium, compact, shouldered ; berry medium, pale yellow in the shade, pale amber in the sun, slightly oblong ; skin thin, transparent; juicy, and high flavored. Very pro- ductive and hardy, and generally healthy. Vine a strong, somewhat long- jointed grower, wood grayish, leaf re- sembling Taylor. Specific gravity of must 95°. Has fruited for four or five years, and the wine is highly praised by connoisseurs, as resembling heavy Rhenish wine. Missouri Riesling. — This was originated by Mr. Nicolas G rein, of Gasconade Co. , Mo. It is evidently a Tay- lor seedling, and has proved very hardy, healthy, and pro- ductive wherever tried. Vine vigorous and very healthy ; leaves thick and healthy ; a short-jointed grower, very productive. Bunch medium, moderately compact, shoul- dered ; berry rather below medium, round, greenish- white, juicy, and free from pulp ; fine quality ; said to make an exquisite white wine. Noah. — Originated by Edward Wasserzieher, Nauvoo, 111., from seed of the Taylor. Bunch medium, shoul- dered, moderately compact ; berry medium, round, pale yellow, with white bloom ; very sweet, but rather hard pulp, good flavor ; said to be very productive and hardy. The following are Clinton seedlings, grown by Mr. James H. Ricketts, of Newburgh, N. Y. : Pizarro. — Seedling of Clinton and a foreign grape, foliage resembling Clinton, productive; bunch long, rather loose ; berry medium, oblong, black, very juicy and spicy ; promising for wine. A sample of wine made from it was of light red color, with very fine aroma. Bacchus. — Very healthy, and enormously productive, as the original vine bore about 1,000 bunches this season, all perfect. In 1877, the same vine yielded nine gallons and a quart of juice ; a seedling of Clinton, which it re- AND WINE MAKING. 75 sembles in leaf, bunch, and berry, but is much better. Bunch medium, compact, shouldered ; berry below me- dium, black, with blue bloom; juicy, and sprightly. The must weighs from 95° to 110°. Some wine from it which I tasted, was brownish-red, sprightly, very heavy, and of fine flavor. Ariadne. — Clinton* seedling ; promising for wine, but so overloaded that it could hardly be called a fair test ; bunch compact, resembling Clinton, but very much bet- ter, very juicy and sweet ; juice dark. Some wine I tasted was light-red, very heavy, with fine flavor. Naomi. — Vine vigorous, very productive, a hybrid of Clinton and one of the Muscats, fruited ten years, leaves very large, coarsely serrated. Bunch very large, shoul- dered ; berry medium, roundish oval, pale green, often with a tinge of red in the sun, covered with white bloom; flesh juicy, melting, sweet, and sprightly ; ripens with the Concord. No. 234. — A white grape, with foliage like Clinton ; makes a very fine, deep yellow wine with a slight Sherry flavor. No. 231. — Clinton hybridized with foreign. Vine pro- ductive ; makes a straw-colored wine, somewhat sweet ; must 104°, fine flavor. No. 413. — A seedling of Bacchus. Vine vigorous and healthy. Bunch medium, compact, seldom shouldered ; berry medium, black, with blue bloom, spicy, and very sweet ; promising for light-red wine, and as a good table grape. These are the most promising of Mr. Ricketts’ grapes that I saw. He has a multitude of others, all fine, but either not healthy enough, or not good enough in quality, to compare with these. How they will do in other sec- tions and on other soil remains to be proved, but at his place they certainly are very fine. 70 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING The success of Mr. Ricketts in producing quality, at least, from the Clinton, has been as marked as that of Mr. Rommel, and should some of his seedlings prove generally successful, the Clinton may become the pro- genitor of as valuable a class of red, as the Taylor of white wines. Some of the samples I tested with him, were very fine indeed, and entirely distinct from anything tasted by me before, while all show extraordinary keeping qualities. Taking into consideration the small quantities in which these wines were made, and all the disadvantages under which he labored in producing them, they were some- thing remarkable indeed. I have already referred to the varieties which I think ought to be discarded, now that we have so many better ones, but we ought to hold the Taylor and Clinton in grateful remembrance, for the off- spring they have given us, and as nearly all of them seem to have Phylloxera-proof roots, we may look to the c estivalis and cordifolia as likely to become the founda- tion of the new era of viticulture for the whole civilized world. California, which seems to be the home par ex- cellence of the vinifera , is now importing our cordifolia and cestivalis varieties. Her vineyards are threatened by as wide-spread a devastation as those of Prance, and as the cordifolia has the advantage of easy propagation and rank growth over the cestivalis , which is difficult to prop- agate, we may naturally suppose that this class will take the lead. Verily, this country has seen great changes within the last ten years, and in none of the fruits have these been more marked than in the grape. AND WINE MAKING. 77 CHAPTEK XIV. VARIETIES DIFFICULT TO CLASSIFY, ETC. I think that the following may be crosses between the cestivalis and vinifera , as they are distinct from all others, possessing some of the characteristics of both these classes, and are very subject to the attacks of Phylloxera. Creveling. — Synonyms, Catawissa Bloom, Columbia County, Bloomsburg, Laura Beverly. Vine hardy, a mod- erate grower and bearer, with thin, deeply-lobed leaves. Bunch medium, shouldered, loose ; berry medium, round, black, with blue bloom, nearly as early as Hartford, sweet, and good, carries well to market, but is apt to set imper- fectly. Supposed to have originated in Pennsylvania ; not desirable in most sections. Delaware. — Synonyms, Heath, Italian Wine, German Grape, Traminer ( erroneously ). Downing says : “ It was found many years ago in the garden of Paul H. Prevost, Frenchtown, Hunterdon Co., X. J.” It may be a hy- brid of vinifera and cestivalis , but is certainly not the Traminer of Germany, as was claimed by some. It was introduced by Mr. Thompson, of Delaware, Ohio, and extensively propagated and unduly praised by Dr. Grant, of Iona Island, New York, who urged it for general cul- tivation through the country. The sequel has shown how little it was adapted to general culture. It seems to do very well in certain localities East and North, and where it does, it is certainly a nice little grape, sweet and luscious for the table, and makes a fine wine. In the West and South it has not generally given much satisfaction, as its leaf seems too tender to withstand our hot suns and sudden changes. It is also very subject to Phylloxera, almost as much so as a vinifera, but could, perhaps, be improved by grafting on healthy and hardy 78 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING stocks. It needs a rich, sandy soil, and close pruning, as it is exceedingly productive, apt to overbear and then drop its leaves. Bunch below medium, compact, shouldered ; berry below medium, oblong, pale red, with beautiful lilac bloom ; skin not thick, but tough, very sweet, high flavored, and juicy. Bipens before the Concord. Spe- cific gravity of must 100°. Purity. — I think I must also place Mr. Campbell’s little grape m this class, as it is very evidently a seedling of Delaware. I saw it, for the first time, at the Cen- tennial, and as he says it is hardy, healthy, and produc- tive, it may become a valuable wine grape. I think it well named. Bunch small, rather loose, shouldered ; berry below medium, pale yellow, transparent, sweet, and juicy, with no trace of fo^iness or native flavor discerni- ble. I have no doubt it would make a delightful wine. YITIS VULPINA, THE SCUPPERNONG. It may be expected that I shall say something about this class, of which some of our Southern readers expect so much. I will simply observe that I have tried to cultivate, and once fruited the Scuppernong, or South- ern Muscadine, but found it entirely useless, and all the correspondence I have had with Southern grape-growers has led me to the belief that we cannot expect real grapes , worthy of the name, from that class, nor from the Mustang of Texas. The Scuppernong and its vari- eties differ entirely, in all their habits, from all other grapes. The fruit drops as soon as ripe, is deficient in sugar, has a very tough pulp, and strong flavor. I ven- ture to assert, that another decade will see these grapes dropped from the roll altogether. I do not write for our friends on the Pacific coast. They have so far cultivated mainly the vimfera , and have a different climate and soil, so it would be preposterous AND WINE MAKING. 79 for me to try and give them advice. I will say this much, however, that I have tried a great many wines of their make, and although there.is a vast improvement percepti- ble lately in the quality of their products, yet they are all too heavy to suit the palate of the true connoisseur in wines. It is an old established fact, that the true bouquet wines are only grown in the temperate zones, and there is a certain amount of acid necessary in the must to de- velop bouquet in fermentation. Moreover, the Phylloxera is busy at work there, and I fully believe, from all the knowledge I can gain of the habits of that little devasta- tor, that they will be compelled to resort to our cestivcilis and cordifolia varieties, to regenerate their failing vine- yards, as we have already seen it done in France. The day may not be so far distant, when the despised grape of North America will become the only hope of the failing grape-growers of all nations. Let us then do our best to furnish such material as will be an honor to the country, and carry the fame of the “ Wineland ” of the old legend through the length and breadth of the earth. CHAPTER XV. VARIETIES FOR DIFFERENT LOCALITIES. I will now try to give a list of varieties for table and market and one for wine, for the three sections of coun- try, Eastern and North-Eastern States, Middle and West- ern States, and Southern States. I do not pretend that it should be a complete guide, for great allowance must always be made for soil and location, and no one a thousand miles away can give so good advice to a novice, as he can gather in the nearest vineyards by actual ob- servation, provided he can consult any of his neighbors. 80 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING VARIETIES FOR NORTH OF LATITUDE 42 °. Most Hardy and Productive for Table and Mar- ket. — Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder, Delaware, Martha, Concord, Elvira, Lindley, Telegraph. Promising Well . — Lady, Early Champion, Aminia, Essex, Black Eagle, Amber, Pearl, Beauty, Brighton. For Wine. — General Cultivation . — Delaware, Elvira, for white wine ; Cynthiana, and Norton’s Virginia, for red wine. Promising Well . — Martha, Massasoit, for white wine. varieties for localities between latitude 42 °— 36 °. For Table and Market. — Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder, Telegraph, Concord, Martha, Elvira, Goethe, Lindley. Promising Well . — Lady, Aminia, Black Eagle, Defi- ance, Essex, Pearl, Amber, Beauty, Triumph. For White Wine. — Elvira, Martha, Goethe. Promising Well — Pearl, Amber, Beauty, Uhland, Transparent. For Red Wine. — Cynthiana, Norton’s Virginia. For Sherry. — Hermann. Promising Well . — Hermann Seedling. This list embraces only the older varieties, such as have been tried several years. varieties for localities south of 36 °. For Market and Table. — Perkins, Massasoit, Wilder, Martha, Elvira, Goethe, Lindley, Herbemont. Promising Well . — Lady, Black Eagle, Defiance, Tri- umph, Rogers’ No. 2. For White Wine. — Elvira, Herbemont. Promising Well — Amber, Pearl, Beauty, Transparent, Uhland, Hermann Seedling. AND WINE MAKING. 81 For Red Wine. — Cynthiana, Norton’s Virginia, Lenoir. For Sherry. — Hermann, Rulander, Cunningham, Alvey. CHAPTER XVI. planting the vine. The distance at which the vines may be planted, will, of course, vary with the different varieties. The rows may all be 6 feet apart, as this is the most convenient distance for cultivating, and gives space enough for man, horse and plow, or cultivator. Slow growing varieties, such as Delaware, Catawba, or Alvey, may be planted 6 feet apart in the rows, but Concord, Norton’s, Herbe- mont, and all strong growing varieties, will need more room, say from 8 to 10 feet, to give the vines ample space to spread, and allow free circulation of air, one of the first conditions of success. The next question is : Shall we plant cuttings or rooted plants ? The latter are by far the best, as cuttings, even of the easiest growing va- rieties, are uncertain, and we cannot expect to have so even a growth as from rooted plants carefully assorted. Choose, therefore, good, strong, one-year-old plants, the best you can get, either from cuttings, layers, or single eyes. Good plants should have plenty of strong, well- ripened roots, which are smooth and firm — for excres- cences and warts upon the roots are a sign of Phylloxera — and have also well-ripened, short-jointed wood. They should be of even size, so as to make a uniform growth, and not have been forced by the propagator into rank growth, for we cannot expect plants that have been petted and pampered with artificial manures, to flourish with 82 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING the every day food they obtain in the vineyard. But do not take second or third-rate plants, if you can help it, for they will not make the thrifty growth of first-class plants. The best are the cheapest even if they cost a little more. Especially important is this with such va- rieties as Norton’s or Delaware, which do not root readily, and are always more difficult to transplant. Better pay double the price for them and get good plants, as they will make healthier vines and bear sooner. But I also caution you against those who would sell you “ extra large layers for immediate bearing,” and whose plants are “better than any one else grows them,” as their advertisements will term it. It is time that this humbug should cease, and the public in general should know that they cannot, in reason, expect fruit from a vine transplanted the same season, and that those who pretend it can be done without vital injury to the plant, are only seeking to fill their pockets at the cost of their customers. They know well enough themselves, that it cannot be done without fatally injuring the plant, but they impose upon the credulity of their customers ; sell them large vines at extravagant prices, which these good souls will buy, and perhaps obtain a few sickly bunches the first season, but if they do, the vines will make a feeble growth, not ripen their wood, and be winter-killed next season. Therefore, if you look around for plants do not go to those who advertise “layers for immediate bearing,” or “better grown than any one’s else,” but send to some honest, reliable nurseryman whom you can trust ; one who is not afraid to let you see how he grows them, and let him send you a sample of his plants. Choose good, strong, healthy plants, one year old, plant care- fully, and be content to wait two years for results ; but then, if you have cultivated the vines carefully, you will get a crop of grapes that is worth gathering. You can not, in nature and reason, expect it sooner. A ND WINE MAKING. 83 If the ground has been prepared in the fall, so much the better, and if it has been thrown into ridges, and is dry enough, it may be planted in the fall. The advantages of fall planting may be summed up as follows : The Fig. 15. — YOUNG VINE READY TO PLANT. ground is generally in better condition than in spring and will work better, as we usually have better weather, and more time to spare ; the ground can settle among the roots, which will be healed over and callused by spring, when the plant is ready to start with full vigor. Mark your ground, laying it off with a line, and put a small stake where each plant is to be. A very convenh 84 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING ent plan is to tie a string, or piece of bark, into your line at the proper distance for each plant, then you have an even measure every time. Dig a hole, 8 or 10 inches deep, as shown in figure 1G, in a slanting direction, rais- ing a small mound of well pulverized earth in the center; then, having pruned your plant, as in figure 15, with its tops and roots shorten- ed-in, as shown by the dot- ted lines, lay it in, resting the lower end on the mound of earth ; spread out its roots evenly to all sides, and then fill in with well pulverized earth, leav- ing the upper bud above the ground. When planted in fall, raise a small mound around each vine, so as to drain off the water, and throw a handful of mulch on top of the vines, to protect them. All the work should be done when the ground is in good condition, and dry and mellow enough to be worked in well among the roots. Fig. 16.— PLANTING THE VINE. CHAPTER XVII. TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FIRST SUMMER. The first summer after planting, nothing is necessary but to keep the ground loose and mellow and free from weeds, stirring it freely with hoe, rake, and plow, when- ever necessary, but never when the ground is wet. Should the vines grow strong, they may be tied to the small stakes, to elevate them somewhat above the ground. Allow but one shoot to grow, rubbing off all others as AND WINE MAKING. 85 they appear, but allow all the laterals to grow on this shoot, as it will make it short- jointed and stocky. In the fall, prune the young vine back to three buds, if it has grown well ; to one or two, if it is small. A fair growth for the first season, is from 3 to 4 feet. During the winter, trellises should be provided, as this is the most convenient and the cheapest method of training ; and we expect our vines to grow from 10 to 15 feet the coming summer. Procure good posts, 7 feet long, and 3 to 4 inches in diameter, of Eed Cedar where it can be had, as this is the most durable ; if that is not at hand, use Osage Orange, Mulberry, Black Locust, or Post Oak. Char the lower ends of the posts slightly, or dip them in coal tar, as far as they go into the ground, to make them more durable. Make holes with a post auger, placing the first post in each row about 4 feet outside of the last vine, and parallel with the row ; set the second post midway between the second and third vines, and so on, so that two vines always occupy the space between two posts. If preferred, every other post can be omitted this summer, and the intermediate ones may be set the next fall, as the trellis will be strong enough to bear the young growth, and that is all it will have to do the next summer. Make the holes 2 feet deep and set the posts firmly, pounding down the ground around them with a small wooden pestle or crowbar. Brace the end post firmly, by driving in a short stake 4 feet from the last post, fastening a wire to the top of the post and draw- ing it down and around the stake, as shown in figure 17. Procure No. 12 wire ; bore holes with a half-inch auger through the end post (which should always be rather heavier and square), one near the top of the post, and one or two others, as you wish to make the trellis of two or three wires. If the trellis is to be of only two wires, make the next hole 2 feet below the upper one ; if three wires are to be used, 20 inches below. The three-wire 80 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING trellis is somewhat more convenient in tying np the young vines and lower canes, but is also costlier, while the two-wire trellis is more economical, and when the vines are once established in their proper shape, just as good, while it is more convenient for cultivation be- low, and allows freer circulation of air below the bearing canes. Fasten your vine to the post at one end, drawing it along the line, and pass it through the hole in the end post. Have pieces of 1 inch boards, l 1 /^ inch broad, and a foot long, with a hole bored through the center. Draw your wire also through this, and then by turning the board, you can, in wrapping the wire around it, tighten that at your pleasure, and loosen it also, which should always be done in the fall, as the cold contracts the wire, and the strain would be too great. Now you can fasten the wire to the intermediate posts by small staples, which are manufactured for this purpose, and can be had in any hardware store. If your vineyard slopes to the south, and the rows run parallel with the hillside, fasten on the south side ; if to the east, fasten to the east. Laths will, of course, do instead of wires, but the posts must then be set much closer ; laths always need repairing ; the wires are much more convenient to tie to, and in the end much cheaper. Many train to stakes. Where timber is plenty, stakes may be cheaper, yet it is much more labor to tie to them, and the vines are always in disorder, while they will cling to the wires with their tendrils, thus doing most of the tying themselves, and the bearing canes can be distributed much more evenly, producing more and better ripened fruit. I am satisfied that the addi- tional cost of trellis will be more than paid by the larger and better crop the first bearing season. Fill all va- cancies, if any occur, with extra strong vines in the fall. AND WINE MAKING. 87 CHAPTER XVIII. TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE SECOND SUMMER. We find the young vine at the commencement of the second summer pruned to three buds. From these we may expect two or three strong shoots to ripen into bear- ing canes for the next year. The first work will be to cultivate the whole ground. This can be done by a com- mon turning plow, first throwing away a furrow at each side of the row, as in the first cultivation of corn, taking care not to go too deep, so as to injure the vine or its roots. Then hoe the space under and around the vines, either with the two-pronged German hoe, or the Hexa- mer hoe, stirring and inverting the soil to the depth of about 3 inches. Then take the plow again and throw the soil back to the vines, using care, however, not to cover them ; stir the whole to a uniform depth, and leaving a shallow furrow in the middle. The ground should be dry enough to work well, and not clog ; rather wait a few days than to stir the soil in wet weather. Of the three shoots which may grow, leave two to grow un- checked ; the weakest is to be pinched as soon as about five or six leaves are developed, taking off the top of the young shoot with your thumb and finger. The other two, if Catawba or Delaware, you can let grow unchecked, but all the strong growing kinds, as Concord, Martha, Goethe, etc., and all the mstivalis and cordifolia class, should also be pinched when the shoots have attained a length of 3 feet, or just above the second wire from above ; this will force the laterals into a stronger growth, so that each will attain the size of a medium cane. On these we intend to have our fruit the coming season, as the shoots from buds on these laterals will produce more and finer fruit than those on the main canes, if left un- 88 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING checked ; and they can also he kept under control much better. Figure 17 will show the result of training the second summer, with the method of bracing the trellis. Fig. 17.— THE VINE AT THE END OF THE SECOND SEASON. Figure 18 gives the vine, pruned and tied, at the end of the second season. Figure 19 represents the manner of training and tying the Catawba and Delaware, or other slow growing kinds. The above method of training is a combination of the single-cane and fan-training system, which I tried first on the Concord from sheer necessity, when the results pleased me so much, that I have since adopted it with all Fig. 18. — THE VINE PRUNED AND TIED. the strong growing varieties. The circumstances which led me to the trial of this method, were as follows : In the summer of 1862, when my young Concord vines were AND WINE MAKING. 89 making their second season’s growth, we had, in the be- ginning of June, the most destructive hailstorm I have ever seen here. The vines were not only stripped of all their leaves, but the young succulent shoots were also cut down ta about 3 feet from the ground. The vines, being young and vigorous, pushed out strong laterals, each of them about the size of a fair, medium cane. In the fall, when I came to prune them, the main cane was not long enough, and I shortened in the laterals to from four to six buds each. On these I had as fine a crop of grapes as I ever saw, with large, well developed bunches and berries, Fig. 19.— TRAINING SLOW GROWING VARIETIES. and a great many of them, as each bud had produced its fruit-bearing shoot. Since that time I have followed this method altogether and have obtained the most satisfac- tory results. The ground should be kept loose and mellow during the summer, cultivating as often as may become necessary during dry weather, and the vines are to be tied neatly to the trellis with bark or straw. There are many other methods of training, as the old bow and stake training, so much in vogue formerly. But it crowds the whole mass of fruit and leaves so closely, that mildew and rot will follow as a natural consequence ; it should have been given up long ago. But we have a class of grape growers who never learn or forget anything. 90 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING These will hardly prosper. The grape-grower, of all others, should be a close observer of nature, a thinking and reasoning being. He ought to experiment and try new methods all the time, and should he find a better, be will- ing to throw aside his old method, and adopt one more suited, to the wants of his vines. Only in this manner can he expect to attain success. There is also the arm system, of which we hear so much, and which certainly looks very pretty on paper. But paper is patient, and the advantages of the sys- tem cannot be denied, if every shoot and spur could be made to grow just as in drawings, with three fine bunches to each shoot. Upon applying it, however, we find that vines are stubborn, some shoots will outgrow others, and before we hardly know how, the whole beautiful system is out of order. It may do to follow with a few vines in gardens, or on arbors, but I do not think that it will ever be successfully adopted for vineyard cul- ture, as it involves too much labor in tying, pruning, etc. I think the method already described will more fully meet the wants of the vine grower than any I have yet seen ; it is so simple that an intelligent person can soon become familiar with it, and gives us new, healthy bear- ing-wood every season. Pruning may be done in the fall, as soon as the leaves have dropped, and continued, on mild days, during the winter months. AND WINE MAKING. 91 CHAPTER XIX. TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE THIRD SUMMER. At the beginning of the third season we find onr vine pruned to three spurs, of two buds each, and six short lateral arms of four to six buds each. These are tied firmly to the trellis, as shown in figure 18, for which pur- pose small twigs of the Golden Willow, of which every grape- grower should plant a supply, are the most con- venient. In their absence, twigs of some of the wild willows, or good strong twine, may be substituted, though not near so convenient. The ground should be plowed and hoed as before, taking care, however, not to plow so deeply as to cut or tear the roots of the vines. The vines being plowed and hoed, and, as we hope, pushing young shoots vigorously, we come to one of the most important and delicate operations to be performed on the vine, one of as great, or even greater, importance than pruning. This is summer-pruning, or pinching, i. e ., thumb and finger pruning. Fall pruning, or cutting back, is but the first step in the discipline to which the vine is to be subjected ; summer pruning is the second ; and one is useless and cannot be systematically followed without the other. Look at the vine well before you commence, and begin near the ground. The time to commence is when the young shoots are 6 to 8 inches long, and as soon as you can see all the young bunches or buds, the embryo fruit. We com- mence on the lower spur, having two shoots ; rubbing off, at the same time, all suckers or wild shoots that may have started from the crown of the vine below. From the two buds two shoots have started. One of them may serve as a bearing cane or reserve next summer, we, therefore, leave it unchecked for the present. The other, 92 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING which is intended for a spur again next fall, we pinch with thumb and finger, just beyond the last bunch or button, taking out the leader between the last bunch and the next leaf, as shown in figure 20, the cross line indicat- ing where the leader is to be pinched. We now rub off all the shoots between the lower spur and the next lateral cane, should any appear, as they generally produce im- perfect fruit and are quite too near the ground. Next take the spur on the cane, treating it precisely like the lower one, leaving the strongest shoot unchecked for a bearing cane next year, and pinching the other. Now go Fig. 20.— pinching. eyer g £ ron g ma y should not be allowed to bear over 15 lbs. of grapes, and if allowed thirty to forty bunches it will have that quantity, pro- vided it is not a variety which bears but small bunches. Now is the time to thin the fruit, before it has abstracted any strength from the vine. If any shoots are not suf- ficiently developed to show their condition, we pass them by, and. go over the vine again after a few days. This early pinching of the young shoots has the ten- dency to throw all the vigor into the development of the young bunches and the leaves remaining on the shoot, which now develop with astonishing rapidity. It is a over all the shoots on the lateral canes, shortening each one to just above the last promising looking bunch. If a bud has started two, or even three shoots, rub off the weaker, leaving but one and the strongest, and if any bud has not started vigorously, rub it off altogether. Go over the other cane in the same manner, and if you think there are still too many bunches, take away the smallest. A vine in its third season, how- AND WINE MAKING. 93 gentle checking, and leading the sap into other channels, not the violent process which is often followed long after the bloom, when the shoots have so hardened that the knife must be used, and by which the plant is robbed of a large part of its leaves, to the injury of both fruit and vine. Let any one who wishes to satisfy himself, summer-prune a vine according to this method, and leave the next vine until after the bloom ; he will soon be con- vinced which is best Since I first practised this method, now about twenty years, it has added at least one-third to the quantity and quality of my crop, and it is now fol- lowed by most of the intelligent growers of my State. It also gives an early opportunity to destroy the small worms, a species of leaf -folder, which are very trouble- some about this time, eating the young bunches and leaves, and which generally make their web among the tender leaves at the end of the shoot. The bearing shoots all being pinched back, we can leave the vines alone until after the bloom, only tying up the young canes from the spurs, should this become necessary. Do not tie them over and among the bearing canes, but lead them to the empty spaces in the middle, as our ob- ject must be to give the fruit Fig. 21 .— pinching the all the air and light we can. laterals. When they have bloomed, the laterals will have start- ed from the axils of the leaves on the bearing shoots. Go over again, and pinch these back to one leaf, as shown in figure 21, the cross lines showing where the laterals are to be pinched. This will have the tendency to develop the remaining leaf very rapidly, enabling it to serve as a 94 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING conductor and elaborator of sap to the young bunch op- posite, and shading that when it becomes fully devel- oped. The canes from the spurs, which we left un- checked at first pinching, and which we design to bear fruit the next season, may now also be stopped or pinched when they are about 3 feet long, to start their laterals into stronger growth. Pinch off all the tendrils unless where they serve as supports to the young growth. This is a very busy time for the vine dresser, and upon his close attention and diligence now, depends, in a great measure, the value of his crop. A vast deal of labor can be saved by doing everything at its proper time. This is about all that is necessary for this summer, ex- cept tying the young growth along the top wires, and an occasional tying of a fruit-bearing branch, if it should become too heavy. The majority of the branches will, however, be able to bear their fruit without tying, and the young growth which may yet be made from the laterals may be left unchecked, as it will serve to shade the fruit when ripening. This short and early pinching is also a partial preventive of mildew and rot, as it ad- mits light and air to all parts of the vine. But I cannot caution too strongly against late cutting back, one of the first causes of disease, and ruinous to the vine, as the de- foliation of the vine in August disturbs and violates all its functions, and enfeebles it. The reader will perceive that fall pruning, or shorten- ing-in the ripe wood of the vine, and summer-pruning, shortening-in and thinning the young growth, have one and the same object in view, namely, to keep the vine with- in proper bounds, and to concentrate all its energies for a two-fold object, the production and ripening of the most perfect fruit, and the production of strong and healthy wood for next season’s crop. Both operations are only dif- ferent parts of the same system, of which summer-pruning is the preparatory, and fall-pruning the finishing part. AND WINE MAKING. 95 If we think that a vine sets more fruit than it is able to bear and ripen perfectly, we have it in our power to thin it, by taking away all imperfect bunches and feeble shoots. We should allow no more canes to grow for next season’s bearing than we need, if we allow three canes to grow where only two are needed, we waste the energies of the yine, which should all be concentrated upon ripen- ing its fruit in the most perfect manner, and producing enough wood for next season’s bearing, and of the best and most yigorous kind, but no more. If we prune the yine too long, we overtax its energies, making it bear more fruit than it can well mature, and the result will be poor, badly-ripened fruit, and imperfect wood. If we prune the vine too short, we will have a rank, excessive growth of wood and leaves, and encourage rot and mil- dew. Only practice and experience will teach the true medium, and the observing and thinking vine-dresser will soon learn where the true medium is, better than he can be taught by volumes of advice. Different va- rieties will, of course, require different treatment, and it would be folly to prune them all alike. A compact, slow grower, like the Delaware, will require different treatment from a rank grower like Concord, and much shorter pruning. The Delaware and Catawba fruit well upon single canes, while the Concord, Martha, and others, fruit better on spurs upon laterals, while most of the cestivalis and cor difolia classes, especially the Norton’s, Cynthiana, and Taylor, will fruit better if pruned to spurs of two or three buds, on the old arms, than on young canes. With these latter, the old arms should, therefore, be retained as long as they are sound and vigorous, pruning all the healthy, good sized shoots to two or three buds ; always, however, growing a young cane to fall back upon, should the old one become diseased. It is because so few of our common laborers will take the pains to study the habits and nature of their vines, and 96 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING do a little thinking for themselves,, that we find among them hut very few good vine dressers. It is hardly necessary to state that the ground should be kept mellow and clean through the summer, and especially during the ripening of the fruit, but never touch it m wet weather. At the end of this season, we find our vines, if Concords or similar varieties, with the old fruit-bearing canes, and a spur on each side, from each of which we have a cane, as the smaller one was stopped, like all other fruit-bear- ing branches, and which we now prune to a spur of two buds. The other, the young cane, which was stopped at about 3 feet, on which the laterals were left to grow un- checked, we prune as last season, each lateral being cut back to four to six buds, and the old canes which had borne fruit, are cut away altogether. With Norton’s, Cynthi- ana, Taylor, etc., the old arms are left, and the well de- veloped shoots are cut back to two buds each, as before mentioned, while the small, weak ones are cut away altogether. This leaves us with an arm on each side, to be tied the next spring, as shown in figure 18, and ends our operations for the season. Of the gathering of the fruit, as well for market as for wine, I shall speak in another place. CHAPTER XX. TREATMENT OF THE VINE THE FOURTH SUMMER. We now consider the vine as established, able to bear a full crop. The operations to be performed are precisely the same as in its third year, only modifying the prun- ing, fruiting, etc., according to the strength of the vine, pruning shorter if the vine shows a decrease in vigor, longer, if it grows too rank. AND WINE MAKING. 97 Should the vines show a decrease in vigor, so as to in- dicate the need of stimulants, they may be manured with ashes, bone dust, compost, or still better, with surface soil from the woods or prairies. This will serve to re- plenish the soil which may have been washed off, and is much more beneficial than stable manure. When the latter is employed, a small trench may be dug in the middle of the row just above the vine, the manure laid in, and covered with soil. But an abundance of fresh soil, drawn around the vine, is the best of all manures. Should your vineyard have vacancies, they had best be filled with layers from neighboring vines, made as follows: Dig a trench from the vine from which the layer is to be made, to the empty place, about 8 or 10 inches deep ; bend into this trench one of the canes of the vine which has been left to grow unchecked for the purpose, and pruned to the proper length. Let the end of this layer- cane come out at the surface, where the new vine is want- ed, and fill up the trench with well pulverized earth. It will take root at every joint, and grow rapidly, but as it draws a great deal of nourishment from the parent vine, that must be pruned much shorter. When the layer is well established, it is cut from the parent vine, either the second or third season. Such layers will fill up much better than" if the vacancies are supplied by planting young vines, as the latter do not grow very vigorous- ly, if set among the others, after the second season. Pruning is best done in fall, but can be done any time during mild weather in winter, and here even as late as the middle of March. Fall pruning will prevent flow of sap, and the cuttings, if to be used for future plantations, or sold, are also better if made in the fall, and buried in the ground over winter, with their upper ends downwards. All the sound, well-ripened wood of last season’s growth may be made into cuttings, and if they can be sold, will largely add to the product of the vineyard. 5 98 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING CHAPTER XXL TRAINING THE VINE ON ARBORS AND WALLS. This has a different purpose from culture in vineyards, and, therefore, the vines require different treatment. Vineyard culture has for its object the most perfect fruit, and bringing the vine, with all its parts, within easy reach of the cultivator. Arbor culture has for its object the covering of a large space with foliage, for or- nament and shade ; fruit being but a secondary considera- tion, though a large quantity of fruit of fair quality can also be produced, if the vines are judiciously treated. The first aim should be to grow very strong plants, so as to cover a large space. Prepare the border by digging a trench 2 feet deep and 4 feet wide, and fill with rich soil, rotten leaves, bones, ashes, etc. Set your plants in this, in the manner already shown in vineyard planting. Leave but one shoot to grow on them during the first summer, which ought to become very strong. Cut this cane back to three buds the next fall. Each of these buds will produce a strong shoot the next spring, which should be tied to the arbor and allowed to grow un- checked. In the following fall, cut each of these three canes back to three buds, as our first aim must be to get a good basis for our vines. These will give nine canes the next summer, and as the vine is now strong enough, we can begin to demand a crop from it. We have now three different sections or branches to the vine, each one of which bears three canes. Cut one of these three canes back to two eyes, and prune the other two canes to from six to ten buds each, according to the strength of the vine. Treat each of the three sections in the same man- ner. Next spring tie these neatly to the trellis, divid- A HD WINE MAKING. 99 ing them equally, and when the young shoots appear, thin out the weakest, leaving the others to grow un- checked. Next fall cut back the weakest of the canes to two buds each, the stronger ones to three or four buds, the spurs at bottom to come in as a reserve, should any of the main arms become diseased. Others prefer the Thomery or horizontal arm training, but I think it much more complicated and difficult. Those who wish to inform themselves about it, I refer to the books of Fuller and Mead, which are very explicit on the subject. CHAPTER XXII. OTHER METHODS OF TRAINING. These are almost without number ; one of the most common is to place three stakes around the vine, about a foot from it, and to wind the canes or arms around them spirally, until they reach the top. They are then “spurred in” every season, and no young canes grown, except to replace a decaying arm. This mode is much more inconvenient than a trellis, and it crowds fruit and foliage too much, inducing mildew. Another, much in vogue in Europe, and also in California, is the so- called bush or stool method of training. The vine is made to form its crown, i. e ., the part from which the branches start, from 12 to 18 inches above the ground and all the young shoots are allowed to grow, but sum- mer pruned or checked above the last bunch of grapes. The next spring or fall all of the young shoots are “spurred-in ” to two buds ; this system of spurring-in is kept up, and the vine will at last present the appearance of a bush or miniature tree, producing all its fruit within 100 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING a foot from the crown, and without further support than its own stem. Very old vines, sometimes, have from a dozen to twenty spurs, and present, with their fruit hanging all around their trunks, a pleasing, but odd aspect. This method could not be applied here with any chance of success to any other than very slow and stocky growers. The Delaware, the Alvey, and also the Eumelan, would be the most suitable, as they are very close- jointed, stocky, and hardy. It would be useless to try it with strong growers. Another method of dwarfing the vine is practised to form a pretty border along walks in gardens or along ter- races, and is as follows : Plant the vines about 8 feet apart, treat them the first season as in common vineyard culture, but cut back to two buds. Provide posts 3 to 3y a feet long, and pointed at one end ; drive these into the ground for 18 inches, and nail a lath on the top. This is the trellis, and should be about 18 inches above the ground, or 2 feet, if you prefer. Allow both of the shoots from the vine to grow unchecked, and when they have reached the trellis, tie one to the right, the other to the left, allowing them to grow at will along the lath. The next fall, cut back to the proper length to meet the other vine, and in spring, tie firmly to the lath. When the young shoots appear, all are rubbed off below the trel- lis, but all those above the trellis are pinched, as in vine- yard culture, beyond the last bunch of grapes. The trellis, with its garland of fruit, will look very pretty. In the fall, all the shoots are “ spurred-in ” to one or two buds, one being allowed to grow from each spur, to produce fruit the next summer ; the same treatment is repeated every year. During a trip among the vineyards of Western New York, on the shores of Lake Erie and Keuka, or Crooked Lake, I observed a method of training which seems to pro- duce good results there, but which I think would not AND WINE MAKING. 101 prove successful here, as our hot sun would scald the leaves, and the grapes being so near the ground would be more liable to rot. I can but think that even in these localities the method described by me, would be better, and save a good deal of labor. Their method is as follows : They grow two canes on each vine, which are tied horizontally to the lower wire, one to the left, the other to the right, and also a spur on each arm to produce a new cane for next year. The shoots, which grow from the eyes on the two horizontal canes, are left to grow unchecked, and when they have become long enough to reach the second wire, are tied to it, and from there to the upper wire, thus bearing the fruit all between the lower and second wires. The next fall the cane, which has borne the fruit the last summer, is cut off close to the spur, and the new cane grown from it takes the place of it the next summer. It is a very sinrple way of renewal training, but were we to do it here, the leaves which are on the main shoots would drop off, leaving the fruit exposed ; while with the system of summer-pruning I follow, the young and vigorous leaves on the punched laterals shade the fruit perfectly, and remain fresh and green. Besides, it takes an immense amount of tying and tying material, and we can pinch four shoots in a shorter time than we can tie one. As our pinched shoots be- come very stocky, they will bear the weight of all the fruit without tying, and the slanting direction in which we tie will distribute the fruit more evenly. I believe, therefore, that our New York growers would do well to give this method a trial, and compare results. I also saw the horizontal arm training in great perfec- tion at Mr. H. B. Hooker’s, at Rochester, and confess that his arms of the Brighton, with their handsome clusters, looked very handsome. He thinks he could carry an arm to the distance of 50 feet in the same way. His treatment consists simply in “spurring-in” the young 102 AMERICAN GRATE GROWING shoots on his canes along the first wire to one to two eyes, growing his fruit on these, and leaving the old arm, pruning back the young shoots to spurs every year, leav- ing the bearing shoots unchecked, and tying them to the wires above. While it succeeds there, I have my doubts as to its applicability with us, for the reasons already given, nor do I believe that he can grow any better fruit even there, than could be obtained by our simpler method. CHAPTER XXIII. DISEASES OF THE VINE. I cannot agree with those writers who assert that the diseases of the vine are not threatening in this country. They are so formidable that whole districts where grape growing was formerly followed, have given up the cul- ture of the vine almost entirely, and it seems as if all varieties of the Labrusca become, more or less, a prey to them. This may, to a certain extent, be attributed to the Phylloxera, or Root Louse, which so enfeebles the plant, that it can not withstand the changes of our vari- able climate. But even the Concord, which is almost Phylloxera proof, has rotted worse than any other during the last few years, although formerly considered one of the most reliable. I think one of the reasons why the Labrusca class is so subject to disease, is the tendency of the vines to root near the surface, as they are thus more liable to be affected by excessive wet, or the reverse ex- treme, drouth. It is, therefore, fortunate indeed, that we have some varieties which do not rot, at least to such an extent as to affect their crop. Almost all of the older A ND WINE MAKING. 103 varieties of these belong to the cestivalis class, and among them, the Norton’s Virginia and Cynthiana stand pre- eminent. During the forty years that the Norton’s has been known, the rot has never materially affected the crop, and the Cynthiana rivals it in that respect, being equally healthy, while its wine, in quality, excels that of the Norton. The cordifolia class also bids fair to furnish ns varieties of the “ iron clad ” type, in the Elvira, Trans- parent, Pearl, Uhland, etc. Both of these classes root deeply, and in this, I believe, is to be found the reason for their greater health. Both are true wine grapes, with no toughness of pulp, the Norton’s and Cynthiana furnish- ing us the types for red wine, the others, the delicate and smooth white wines. On these I make bold to say, the future of our country as a “ Wineland” depends ; not on the windy appliances of sulphur, and other remedies against rot and mildew, and my advice to the beginner is: do not plant largely of any variety subject to disease, but plant those which will not need these remedies. I have no doubt that there are varieties adapted to every section of the country which are free from disease, and it will certainly pay the planter to seek them out. Mildew is our most formidable disease, and very often sweeps away two-thirds of a crop of Catawbas in a few days. It does not seem to affect the Concord and Mar- tha. Generally mildew appears here from June 1st to June 15th, after abundant rains, and damp weather. It is a parasitic fungus, and sulphur applied by means of a bellows, or dusted over the fruit and vine, is a partial remedy. Close and early summer-pruning will do much to prevent it, throwing, as it does, all the strength of the vine into the young fruit, developing it rapidly, and also giving free access of air. In some varieties, Delaware for instance, it will only affect the leaves, causing them to drop off, after which the fruit, though it may attain full size, will not ripen or become sweet, but shrinks and 104 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING drops. In seasons when the weather is dry, and the air pure, mildew will not appear. It is most prevalent in locations with a tenacious subsoil and where malaria abounds, being less frequent in soils with good drainage and in high, exposed situations. Under-draining is also a partial preventive, as excess of moisture about the roots and in the air is, no doubt, its principal cause. The Gray Eot, or “ Grape Cholera” (so-called), gen- erally follows the mildew, and I think the latter its prin- cipal cause, as it is generally found on berries of which the stems have already been affected by mildew. The berry first shows gray streaks and marblings ; in a few days it turns to a grayish-blue color, withers, and drops from the bunch. It will continue to affect berries until they begin to ripen and color, but is confined to a few varieties only, the Catawba, Diana, and a few others. The Spotted, or Brown Rot, has been most destructive of late among the Concord, Martha, Rogers’ Hybrids; in short, nearly all of the Labruscas, with the exception of the Ives, Perkins, and a few others, too poor in quality to be very desirable. It appears like a small puncture on the berry, which will take on a liver-colored hue and spread very rapidly. In 1878 it destroyed almost the whole Concord crop along the lower Missouri and Missis- sippi. Longer fall pruning and heavier bearing of the vine will prevent it to some extent, also close and early summer-pruning, as it is worse on vines with a rank growth, and on poorly drained soil. Training on the trellis higher than is generally followed (which is a natural consequence of longer pruning), will also be found a partial preventive, in short, anything which will give a freer circulation of air and more exposure to the light will be of aid. There is another form of rot, appearing mostly on the Herbemont, Lenoir, Hermann, and sometimes on the Taylor, which generally comes after frequent showers. AND WINE MAKING. 105 close, sultry air, and hot glimpses of sunshine between showers. It at first appears as a grayish spot on the foliage, which shrivels as if burnt, and the berries dry up as if scalded by hot water. It comes in spots ; some- times all the fruit on one arm will be destroyed, while that on the other arm on the same vine is healthy, and all of it will ripen. The best method of avoiding all these diseases is to plant varieties not subject to them, and with the mani- fold kinds we now have, some can surely be found that will remain healthy in every locality at all adapted to grape growing. That we have varieties exempt from dis- ease, the experience with the Norton’s Virginia, wherever cultivated, has fully demonstrated. No sensible man, however, will suppose that one variety should be suited to all locations over this wide country. It behooves us then, each to experiment, and ascertain which are suited to his particular locality, and for these experiments to choose such as are considered most healthy elsewhere, and especially in locations similar to his, in climate and soil. CHAPTER XXIV. INSECTS INJURIOUS TO THE GRAPE. As the most destructive of all, because it works chiefly under ground, and the mischief it does will only be per- ceived in its effects, I may consider the Phylloxera vasta - trix , or Grape-vine Root-louse. Concerning the exist- ence of this pest, we have for a long time been ignorant, until the efforts of our State Entomologist, . Prof. C. V. Riley, and of other Entomologists, especially Prof. Planchon, of France, have enlightened us upon the subject, and made us aware of the danger threatening 100 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING our vineyards, but especially those of Europe and Cali- fornia, where the vmifera class had so far been cultivated almost exclusively. It threatens now to sweep out of existence that whole class, and it is a very noteworthy fact, that from this country from which the fell destroyer was imported into Europe, should also come the only effective remedy so far found, namely, the introduction of Phylloxera proof varieties of vines, which are found chiefly in the cestivalis and cordifolia (or riparia) classes. All other remedies, except inundation, seem to have failed, and Prof. Planchon, in a letter to me, ex- presses his firm belief, that the only hope of saving that great source of wealth to the French nation, their vine- yards, is in the introduction and general cultivation of our Phylloxera proof varieties of the grape, first as a stock to graft the vinifera upon, and secondly to cultivate our grapes for their fruit, if they can find varieties which will make such wines as the popular taste there demands. With this object in view millions upon millions of American cuttings and plants have already been imported into France, and the demand is still as active as ever. But the Clinton and Concord, which were first imported for that purpose, have not proved satisfactory. The first succeeds well enough, but is too rambling a grower, and not even a good stock, on account of its tendency to sucker, and the quality of its wine is not good enough to suit the palate of the French connoisseurs. The Con- cord seems to fail even as a stock, as its roots are too near the surface, and it ripens its fruit and wood too early. The hot summers there appear to affect it, and it turns yellow prematurely. The Lenoir, or Jacques as they call it there, for a time promised to be all they wanted, as it was vigorous and made an exquisite red wine. But last summer the dry-rot appeared upon it also, the Cun- ningham and Herbemont have been imported largely, but they fear that they will not be quite hardy enough for AND WINE MAKING. 107 Northern France. The Norton’s, Cynthiana, and ner- mann seem not to be quite satisfactory in their growth, though their wines are all they desire. However, if they have been mostly grafted upon vinifera stocks, this is not surprising, for when the root is destroyed or weakened, the graft can not flourish, and it is rather difficult to establish a vineyard of them even here ; but when once established, it will last. Their attention is now drawn towards the Taylor, as a very easy vine to propagate, and an excellent stock to graft upon, and if we once have varieties which have the Phylloxera proof roots of the Taylor, and which besides are abundant bearers, as we now seem to have in the Elvira and her sisters, we have found what is desired, and the supposition is but natural that they will become in time the wine grapes of the whole civilized world. It is indeed wonderful that, when this insect threatens to destroy the grape vines of the Old World, its remedy should be found here in our Missouri vineyards, and it may truly be called providen- tial. It would require too much space to give the full natural history of the insect, and I refer those who wish to study it to the valuable Report * of Prof. Riley, of which I copy the most important part : How the Phylloxera Affects the Vine. — Prof. Riley says : “ The result which follows the puncture of the Root-Louse is an abnormal swelling, differing in form according to the particular part and texture of the root. These swellings, which are generally commenced at the tips of the rootlets, eventually rot, and the lice forsake them and betake themselves to fresh ones. The decay affects the parts, adjacent to the swellings, and on the more fibrous roots cuts off the supply of sap to all parts beyond. As these last decompose, the lice congregate * Sixth Annual Report on the Noxious, Beneficial, and other Insects of the State of Missouri, by C. Y. Riley, State Entomologist. St. Louis, Mo., 1874. 108 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING on the larger ones, until at last the root system literally wastes away. “ During the first year of attack, there are scarcely any outward manifestations of disease, though the fibrous roots, if examined, will be found covered with nodosities, particularly in the latter part of the growing season. The disease is then in its incipient stage. The second year all these fibrous roots vanish, and the lice not only 23revent the formation of new ones, but, as just stated, settle on the larger roots, which they injure by causing hypertrophy of the parts punctured, which also eventu- ally become disorganized and rot. At this stage the out- ward symptoms of the disease first become manifest, in a sickly, yellowish appearance of the leaf and a reduced growth of cane. As the roots continue to decay, these symptoms become more acute, until by about the third year the vine dies. When the vine is about dying it is generally impossible to discover the cause of the death, the lice, which had been so numerous the first and second years of invasion, having left for fresh pasturage.” “ The life-history of the Grape Phylloxera may be thus epitomized : It hibernates mostly as a young larva, tor- pidly attached to the roots of the vine, and so deepened in color as generally to be of a dull brassy-brown, and, therefore, with difficulty perceived, as the roots are often of the same color. With the renewal of vine growth in the spring, this larva moults, rapidly increases in size, and soon commences laying eggs. These eggs, in due time, give birth to young, which soon become virginal, egg- laying mothers, like the first ; and, like them, always re- main wingless. Five or six generations of these partheno- genetic, egg-bearing, apterous mothers follow each other ; when — about the middle of J uly, in this latitude — some of the individuals begin to acquire wings. These are all females, and like the wingless mothers, they are partheno- genetic. Having issued from the ground, while in the AND WINE MAKING. 109 pupa state, they rise in the air and spread to new vine- yards, where they deliver themselves of their issue in the form of eggs or egg-like bodies — usually two or three in number, and not exceeding eight — and then perish. These eggs are of two sizes, the larger about 0.02 inch long, and the smaller about three-fifths of that length. In the course of a fortnight they produce the sexual indi- vidual, the larger ones giving birth to females, the smaller to males. These sexual individuals are born for no other purpose than the reproduction of their kind, and are without means of flight, or of taking food, or excreting. They are quite active and couple readily ; one male be- ing capable, no doubt, of serving several females, as Bal- biani found to be the case with the European quercus . The abdomen of the female, after impregnation, en- larges somewhat, and she is soon delivered of a solitary egg, which differs from the ordinary eggs of the parthe- nogenetic mother only in becoming somewhat darker. This impregnated egg gives birth to a young louse, which becomes a virginal, egg-bearing, wingless mother, and thus recommences the cycle of the species’ evolution. But one of the most important discoveries of Balbiani is that, during the latter part of the season, many of the wingless, hypogean mothers perform the very same func- tion as the winged one ; i. e., they lay a few eggs which are of two sizes, and which produce males and females, organized and constructed precisely as those born of the winged females, and, like them, producing the solitary impregnated egg. Thus, the interesting fact is estab- lished that even the winged form, is by no means essen- tial to the perpetuation of the species ; but that, if all such winged individuals were destroyed as fast as they issue from the ground, the species could still go on mul- tiplying in a vineyard from year to year. We have, therefore, the spectacle of an underground insect posses- sing the power of continued existence, even when confined 110 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING to its subterranean retreats. It spreads in the wingless state from vine to vine, and from vineyard to vineyard, when these are adjacent, either through passages in the ground itself, or over the surface. At the same time it is able, in the winged condition, to migrate to much more distant points. The winged females, as before stated,, begin to appear in July, and continue to issue from the ground until vine growth ceases in the fall. Yet they are much more abundant in August than during any other month, and on certain days may be said to lit- erally swarm. Every piece of root a few inches long, and having rootlets, taken from an infested vine at this sea- son, will present a goodly proportion of pupae ; and an ordinary quart preserve jar, filled with such roots and tightly closed, will furnish daily, for two or three weeks, a dozen or more of the winged females, which gather on the sides of the jar toward the light. We may get some idea, from this fact, of the immense numbers that dis- perse through the air to new fields, from a single acre of infected vines, in the course of the late summer and fall months. “If to the above account we add that occasionally individuals abandon their normal underground habit, and form galls upon the leaves of certain varieties of grape- vine, we have, in a general way, the whole natural his- tory of the species . 55 He takes the ground that it is the cause of most of the diseases in the Labrusca class, and especially in the Catawba, as a vine with a diseased root can not produce healthy fruit, and these conclusions are certainly logical. He advises grafting on Phylloxera proof roots as a reme- dy, and to those wishing to save such varieties as the Catawba and Delaware, this is certainly the best course. But I think that they are already superseded by grapes of better quality, and my advice is to plant none but Phylloxera proof varieties. So far as I know, the follow- AND WINE MANING. Ill ing varieties are especially subject to its ravages : Cataw- ba, Delaware, Hartford, most of Rogers’ Hybrids, Iona, Isabella, Creveling, Diana, Maxatawney, Cassady, Rebec- ca, Croton. The following are not quite exempt, but are so vigorous that they seem but little injured : Concord, Martha, Goethe, Wilder, Ives, Perkins, Telegraph, Mary Ann. The whole cestivalis and cordifolia group appear to be free from its ravages. It is strange, however, that the gall-producing type of the insect will prefer the leaves of the Taylor and Clinton, while the type which works at the root does not affect them. The other insect enemies, although very numerous, are not so devastating as the Phylloxera. The common Gray Cut- worm will often eat the tender shoots of the young plantations, and draw them into the ground below. It can be readily detected, so soon as its ravages are seen, by stirring the ground about the vine, when it will be found under some of the loose clods, and easily killed. The small worms, belonging to the leaf-folding class, some of them white, some bluish-green, have already been mentioned under “ Summer-pruning/ 5 They should be destroyed at that time ; closely watch them when they make their webs among the young shoots, as they will become very destructive if not checked in time. Another leaf-folder comes about mid-summer, making its web on the leaf, drawing it together, and then devour- ing its own house. It is a small, whitish-gray, active worm, which will drop to the ground as soon as disturbed. I know of no other way but to catch and destroy it. Several beetles will feed on the young buds before they expand, one about the size and color of a hemp seed ; an- other is of a steel-blue color; both are very active. They can be caught in early morning, when they are yet torpid, by spreading a newspaper under the vine and shaking it, wt en they will drop upon the paper. 112 AMERICAN GRAPE GROWING The Grape- y me Fidia, a sm
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