■! CHRONICLES / fy. THE CANONGATE. COMPLETE IN TWO VOLUMES. BY TIIE AUTHOR OF “ WAVERLEY,” See. See. SIC 1TUR AD ASTRA, Motto of the Canongate Anns. Uol. K. WAVERLEY NOVELS. 39 . BOSTON : SAMUEL H. PARKER, NO. 164, WASHINGTON-STREET. 1828 . % Waverley-Press — Boston. INTRODUCTION. 1 /, ) All who are acquainted with the early history of the Italian stage are aware, that Arlechino is not, in his orig- inal conception, a mere worker of marvels with his wood- en sword, a jumper into and out of windows, as upon our theatre, but, as his party-coloured jacket implies, a buf- foon or clown, whose mouth, far from being eternally closed as amongst us, is filled, like that of Touchstone, with quips, and cranks, and witty devices, very often de- livered extempore. It is not easy to guess how he became possessed of his black vizard, which was anciently made in the resemblance of the face of a cat ; but it seems that the mask was essential to the performance of the character, as will appear from the following theatrical anecdote : — An actor on the Italian stage permitted at the Foire du St. Germain, in Paris, was renowned for the wild, ven- turous, and extravagant wit, the brilliant sallies and fortu- nate repartees, with which he prodigally seasoned the character of the party-coloured jester. Some critics, whose ' good will towards a favourite actor was stronger than their judgment, took occasion to remonstrate with the successful performer on the subject of the grotesque vizard. They went wilily to their purpose, observing that his classical and attic wit, his delicate vein of humour, his happy turn for dialogue, was rendered burlesque and ludicrous by this unmeaning and bizarre disguise, and that those attributes would become far more impressive, if aided by the spirit of his eye and the expression of his natural features. The actor’s vanity was easily so far engaged as to induce him to make the experiment. He played Harlequin barefaced, but was considered on all hands as having made a total failure. He had lost the 4 INTRODUCTION. audacity which a sense of incognito bestowed, and with it all the reckless play of raillery which gave vivacity to his original acting. He cursed his advisers, and resumed his grotesque vizard ; but, it is said, without ever being able to regain the careless and successful levity which the consciousness of the disguise had formerly bestowed. Perhaps the Author of Waverley is now about to incur a risk of the same kind, and endanger his popularity by having laid aside his incognito. It is certainly not a vol- untary experiment, like that of Harlequin ; for it was my original intention never to have avowed these works dur- ing my lifetime, and the original manuscripts were careful- ly preserved, (though by the care of others rather than mine,) with the purpose of supplying the necessary evidence of the truth when the period of announcing it should arrive. But the affairs of my publishers having unfortunately passed into a management different from their own, I had no right any longer to rely upon secrecy in that quarter ; and thus my mask, like my Aunt Dinah’s, in Tristram Shandy, having begun to wax a little thread- bare about the chin, it became time to lay it aside with a good grace, unless I desired it should fall in pieces from my face. Yet I had not the slightest intention of choosing the time and place in which the disclosure was finally made ; nor was there any concert betwixt my learned and re- spected friend Lord Meadowbank and myself upon that occasion. It was, as the reader is probably aware, upon the 23d February last, at a public meeting, called for establishing a professional Theatrical Fund in Edinburgh, that the communication took place. Just before we sat down to table, Lord Meadowbank asked me, whether I was still anxious to preserve my incognito on the subject of what was called the Waverley Novels ? I did not im- mediately see the purpose of his Lordship’s question, although I certainly might have been led to infer it, and replied, that the secret had now become known to so many people that I was indifferent on the subject. Lord Meadowbank was thus induced, while doing me the INTRODUCTION. 5 great honour of proposing my health to the meeting, to say something on the subject of these Novels, so strong]} connecting them with me as the author, that, by remain- ing silent, 1 must have stood convicted, either of the actual paternity, or of the still greater crime of being supposed willing to receive indirectly praise to which 1 had no just title. I thus found myself suddenly arid unexpectedly placed in the confessional, and had only time to recollect that I had been guided thither by a most friendly hand, and could not, perhaps, find a better public opportunity to lay down a disguise, which began to re- semble tfraf of a detected masquerader. I had therefore the task of avowing myself, to the nu- merous and respectable company assembled, as the soli and unaided author of these Novels of Waverley, the paternity of which was likely atone time to have formed a controversy of some celebrity. I now think it further necessary to say, that while I take on myself all the merits and demerits attending these compositions, I am bound to acknowledge with gratitude, hints of subjects and legends which I have received from various quarters, and have occasionally used as a foundation of my fictitious com- positions, or woven up with them in the shape of episodes, l am bound, in particular, to acknowledge the unremitting kindness of Mr. Joseph Train, supervisor of excise a: Dumfries, to whose unwearied industry I have been in- debted fof many curious traditions, and points of antiqua- rian interest. It was Mr. Train who recalled to my recollection the history of Old Mortality, although I my - self had a personal interview with that celebrated wan- derer so far back as about 1792, when I found him on his usual task. He was then engaged in repairing the gravestones of the Covenanters who had died while im- prisoned in the Castle of Dunnottar, to which many of them were committed prisoners at the period of Argyle’s rising ; their place of confinement is still called the Whigs’ Vault. Mr. Train, however, procured for me far more extensive a n for ; • i w.i on concerning this singular person, 1* VOL, I. 6 INTRODUCTION- whose name was Patterson, than I had been able to acquire during my short conversation with him. He was (as I may have somewhere already stated,) a native of the parish of Closeburn, in Dumfries-shire, and it is believed that domestic affliction, as well as devotional feeling, induced him to commence the wandering mode of life, which lie pursued for a very long period. It is more than twenty years since Robert Patterson’s death, which took place on the high road near Lockerby, where he was found exhausted and expiring. The white pony, the compan- ion of his pilgrimage, was standing by the side of its dying master ; the whole* furnishing a scene not unfitted for the pencil. These particulars I had from Mr. Train. Another debt, which I pay most willingly, is that which I owe to an unknown correspondent (a lady), who favour- ed me with the history of the upright and high principled female, whom, in the Heart of Mid-Lothian, I have termed Jeanie Deans. The circumstance of her refusing to save her sister’s life by an act of perjury, and undertaking a pilgrimage to London to obtain her pardon, are both re- presented as true by my fair and obliging correspondent ; and they led me to consider the possibility of rendering a fictitious personage interesting by mere dignity of mind and rectitude of principle, assisted by unpretending good sense and temper, without any of the beauty, grace, tal- ent, accomplishment, and wit, to which a heroine of ro- mance is supposed to have a prescriptive right. If the portrait was received with interest by the public, I am conscious how much it was owing to the truth and force of the original sketch, which I regret that I am unable to present to the public, as it was written with much feeling and spirit. Old and odd books, and a considerable collection ol family legends, formed another quarry, so ample, that it was much more likely that the strength of the labourer should be exhausted, than that materials should fail. I may mention, for example’s sake, that the terrible catas- trophe of the Bride of Lammermoor, actually occurred in a Scottish family of rank. The female relative, by INTRODUCTION. 7 whom the melancholy tale was communicated to me many years since, was a near connexion of the family in which the event happened, and always told it with an appear- ance of melancholy mystery, which enhanced the interest. She had known, in her youth, the brother who rode be- fore the unhappy victim to the fatal altar, who, thotigh then a mere boy, and occupied almost entirely with the gallantry of his own appearance in the bridal procession, could not but remark that the hand of his sister was moist, and cold as that of a statue. It is unnecessary further to withdraw the veil from this scene of family distress, nor, although it occurred more than a hundred years since, might it be altogether agreeable to the representatives of the families concerned in the narrative. It may be proper to say, that the events are imitated : but I had neither the means nor intention of copying the manners, or tracing the char- acters, of the persons concerned in the real story. Indeed, I may here state generally, that although I have deemed historical personages free subjects of delin- eation, I have never on any occasion violated the respect due to private life. It was indeed impossible that traits proper to persons, both living and dead, with whom I have had intercourse in society, should not have risen to my pen in such works as Waverley, and those which followed it. But I have always studied to generalize the portraits, so that they should still seem, on the whole, the produc- tions of fancy, though possessing some resemblance to real individuals. Yet I must own my attempts have not in this last particular been uniformly successful. There are men whose characters are so peculiarly marked, that the delineation of some leading and principal feature, in- evitably places the .whole person before you in his indi- viduality. Thus, the character of Jonathan Oldbuck, in the Antiquary, was partly founded on that of an old friend of my youth, to whom I am indebted for introducing me to Shakspeare, and other invaluable favours ; but I thought I had so completely disguised the likeness, that it could not be recognized by any one now alive. I was mis- taken, however, and indeed had endangered what I de- 8 INTRODUCTION. sired should be considered as a secret ; for I afterwards learned that a highly respectable gentleman, one of the few surviving friends of my father, and an acute critic, had said, upon the appearance of the work, that he was now convinced who was the author of it, as he recognized, in the Antiquary, traces of the character of a very inti- mate friend of my father’s family. I may here also notice, that the sort of exchange of gallantry, which is represented as taking place betwixt the Baron of Bradwardine and Colonel Talbot, is a lite- ral fact. The real circumstances of the anecdote, alike honourable to Whig and Tory, are these : — Alexander Stewart of Invernahyle, — a name which I cannot write without the warmest recollections of grati- tude to the friend of my childhood, who first introduced me to the Highlands, their traditions, and their manners, — had been engaged actively in the troubles of 1745. As he charged at the battle of Preston with his clan, the Stewarts of Appine, he saw an officer of the opposite army standing alone by a battery of four cannon, of which he discharged three on the advancing Highlanders, and then drew his sword. Invernahyle rushed on him, and required him to surrender. “ Never to rebels !” was the undaunted reply, accompanied with a longe, which the Highlander received on his target ; but instead of using his sword in cutting down his now defenceless antagon- ist, he employed it in parrying the blow of a Lochaher axe, aimed at the officer by the Miller, one of his own followers, a grim-looking old Highlander, whom I re- member to have seen. Thus overpowered, Lieutenant Colonel Allan Whiteford, a gentleman of rank and con- sequence, as well as a brave officer, gave up bis sword, and with it his purse and watch, which Invernahyle ac- cepted, to save them from his followers. After the affair was over, Mr. Stewart sought out his prisoner, and they were introduced to each other by the celebrated John Roy Stewart, who acquainted Colonel Whiteford with the quality of his captor, and made him aware of the neces- sity of receiving back his property, which he was inclined INTRODUCTION. 9 to leave in the hands into which it had fallen. So great became the confidence established betwixt them, that In- vernahyle obtained from the Chevalier his freedom upon parole ; and soon afterwards, having been sent back to the Highlands to raise men, he visited Colonel Whiteford at his own house, and spent two happy days with him and his Whig friends, without thinking, on either side, of the civil war which was then raging. When the battle of Culloden put an end to the hopes of Charles Edward, Invernahyle, wounded and unable to move, w r as borne from the field by the faithful zeal of his retainers. But as he had been a distinguished Jacobite, his family and property were exposed to the system of vindictive destruction, too generally carried into execu- tion through the country of the insurgents. It was now Colonel Whiteford’s turn to exert himself, and he wearied all the authorities, civil and military, with his solicitations for pardon to the saver of his life, or at least for a pro- tection for his wife and family. His applications were for a long time unsuccessful : “ I was found with the mark of the Beast upon me in every list,” was Invernahyle’s expression. At length Colonel Whiteford applied to the Duke of Cumberland, and urged his suit with every argu- ment which he could think of. Being still repulsed, he took His commission from his bosom, and, having said something of his own and his family’s services to the House of Hanover, begged to resign his situation in their service, since he could not be permitted to show his grat- itude to the person to whom he owed his life. The Duke, struck with his earnestness, desired him to take up his commission, and granted the protection required for the family of Invernahyle. The Chieftain himself lay concealed in a cave near his own house, before which a small body of regular soldiers was encamped. He could hear their muster-roll called every morning, and their drums beat to quarters at night, and not a change of the sentinels escaped him. As it was suspected that he was lurking somewhere on the property, his family were closely watched, and compelled 10 INTRODUCTION. to use the utmost precaution in supplying him with food. One of his daughters, a child of eight or ten years old, was employed as the agent least likely to be suspected. She was an instance among others, that a time of danger and difficulty creates a premature sharpness of intellect. She made herself acquainted among the soldiers, till she became so familiar to them, that her motions escaped their notice ; and her practice was, to stroll away into the neighbourhood of the cave, and leave what slender supply of food she carried for that purpose under some remark- able stone, or the root of some tree, where her father might, find it as he crept by night from his lurking-place. Times became milder, and my excellent friend was re- lieved from proscription by the Act of Indemnity. Such is the interesting story which I have rather injured than improved, by the manner in which it is told in Waverley. This incident, with several other circumstances illus- trating the Tales in question, was communicated by me to my late lamented friend, William Erskine, (a Scottish Judge, by the title of Lord Kinedder,) who afterwards re- viewed with far too much partiality the Tales of my Land- lord, for the Quarterly Review of January 1817. In the same article, are contained other illustrations of the Nov- els, with which I supplied my accomplished friend, who took the trouble to write the review. The reader who is desirous of such information, will find the original of Meg Merrilees, and I believe of one or two other personages of the same cast of character, in the article referred to. I may also mention, that the tragic and savage circum- * stances which are represented as preceding the birth of Allan MacAulay, in the Legend of Montrose, really hap- pened in the family of Stewart of Ardvoirloch. The wager about the candlesticks, whose place was supplied by High- land torch-bearers, was laid and won by one of the Mac- Donalds of Keppoch. There can be but little amusement in winnowing out the few grains of truth which are contained in this mass of empty fiction. I may, however, before dismissing the subject, allude to the various localities which have been INTRODUCTION. 11 affixed to some of the scenery introduced into these Nov- els, by which, for example, Wolis-Hope is identified with Fast-Castle in Berwickshire, — Tillietudlem with Dra- phane in Clydesdale, — and the valley in the Monastery, called Glendearg, with the dale of the Allan, above Lord Somerville’s villa, near Melrose. 1 can only say, that, in these and other instances, I had no purpose of describing any particular local spot ; and the resemblance must therefore be of that general kind which necessarily exists betwixt scenes of the same character. The iron-bound coast of Scotland affords upon its headlands and promon- tories fifty such castles as WolPs-Hope ; every county has a valley more or less resembling Glendearg ; and if castles like Tillietudlem, or mansions like the Baron of Brad- wardine’s, are now less frequently to be met with, it is owing to the rage of indiscriminate destruction, which has removed or ruined so many monuments of antiquity, when they were not protected by their inaccessible situation. The scraps of poetry which have been in most cases tacked to the beginning of chapters in these Novels, are sometimes quoted either from reading or from memory, but, in the general case, are pure invention. I found it too troublesome to turn to the collection of the British Poets to discover apposite mottos, and, in the situation of the theatrical mechanist, who, when the white paper which represented his showier of snow was exhausted, continued the storm by snowing brown, I drew on my memory as long as I could, and, when that failed, eked it out with invention. I believe that, in some cases, where actual names are affixed to the supposed quotations, it would be to little purpose to seek them in the works of the authors referred to. And now the reader may expect me, while in the con- fessional, to explain the motives why I have so long per- sisted in disclaiming the works of which I am now writing. To this it would be difficult to give any other reply, save that of Corporal Nym — It was the humour or caprice of the time. I hope it will not be construed into ingratitude to the public, to whose indulgence I have owed much more 12 INTRODUCTION. than to any merit of my own, if I confess that I am, and have been, more indifferent to success, or to failure, as an author, than may be the case with others, who feel more strongly the passion for literary fame, probably be- cause they are justly conscious of a better title to it. It was not until I had attained the age of thirty years that I made any serious attempt at distinguishing myself as an author ; and at that period, men’s hopes, desires, and wishes, have usually acquired something of a decisive character, and are not eagerly and easily diverted into a new channel. When I made the discovery, — for to me it was one, — that by amusing myself with composition, which I felt a delightful occupation, I could also give pleasure to others, and became aware that literary pur- suits were likely to engage in future a considerable por- tion of my time, I felt some alarm that I might acquire those habits of jealousy and fretfulness which have les- sened, and even degraded, the character of the children of imagination, and rendered them, by petty squabbles and mutual irritability, the laughing-stock of the people of the world. I resolved, therefore, in this respect to guard my breast (perhaps an unfriendly critic may add, my brow,) with triple brass, and as much as possible to avoid rest- ing my thoughts and wishes upon literary success, lest I should endanger my own peace of mind and tranquillity by literary failure. It would argue either stupid apathy, or ridiculous affectation, to say that I have been insensi- ble to the public applause, when I have been honoured with its testimonies ; and still more highly do I prize the invaluable friendships which some temporary popularity has enabled me to form among those most distinguished by talents and genius, and which I venture to hope now rest upon a basis more firm than the circumstances which gave rise to them. Yet feeling all these advantages as a man ought to do, and must do, I may say, with truth and confidence, that I have tasted of the intoxicating cup with moderation, and that I have never, either in conversation or correspondence, encouraged discussions respecting my own literary pursuits. On the contrary, I have usually INTRODUCTION. 13 found such topics, even when introduced from motives most flattering to myself, rather embarrassing and dis- agreeable. I have now frankly told my motives for concealment, so far as I am conscious of having any, and the public will forgive the egotism of the detail, as what is necessa- rily connected with it. The author, so long and loudly called for, has appeared on the stage, and made his obei- sance to the audience. Thus far his conduct is a mark of respect. To linger in their presence would be in- trusion. I have only to repeat, that I avow myself in print, as formerly in words, the sole and unassisted author of all the Novels published as the composition of the “ Author of Waverley.” I do this without shame, for lam uncon- scious that there is anything in their composition which deserves reproach, either on the score of religion or mo- rality ; and without any feeling of exultation, because, whatever may have been their temporary success, I am well aware how much their reputation depends upon the caprice of fashion ; and I have already mentioned the precarious tenure by which it is held, as a reason for displaying no great avidity in grasping at the possession. I ought to mention, before concluding, that twenty persons at least were, either from intimacy or from the confidence which circumstances rendered necessary, par- ticipant of this secret ; and as there was no instance, to my knowledge, of any one of the number breaking the confidence required from them, I am the more obliged to them, because the slight and trivial character of the mystery was not qualified to inspire much respect in those intrusted with it. As for the work which follows, it was meditated, and in part printed, long before the avowal of the novels took place, and originally commenced with a declaration that it was neither to have introduction nor preface of any kind. This long proem, prefixed to a work intended not to have any, may, however, serve to show how human 2 VOL. i. 14 INTRODUCTION. purposes, in the most trifling as well as the most impor- tant affairs, are liable to be controlled by the course of events. Thus, we begin to cross a strong river with our eyes and our resolution fixed on the point of the opposite shore, on which we purpose to land ; but, gradually giv- ing way to the torrent, are glad, by the aid perhaps of branch or bush, to extricate ourselves at some distant and perhaps dangerous landing-place, much farther down the stream than that on which we had fixed our intentions. Hoping that the Courteous Reader will afford to a known and familiar acquaintance some portion of the favour which he extended to a disguised candidate for his applause, I beg leave to subscribe myself his obliged humble servant, WALTER SCOTT. Abbotsford, October 1, 1827. CHRONICLES OF THE CANONGATE. CHAPTER I. Sic itur ad astra. “ This is the path to heaven.” Such is the ancient motto attached to the armorial bearings of the Canongate, and which is inscribed, with greater or less propriety, upon all the public buildings, from the church to the pillory, in the ancient quarter of Edinburgh, which bears, or rather once bore, the same relation to the Good Town that Westminster does to London, being still possessed of the palace of the sovereign, as it formerly was dignified by the residence of the principal nobility and gentry. I may, therefore, with some propriety, put the same motto at the head of the literary undertaking by which I hope to illustrate the hitherto undistinguished name of Chrystal Croftangry. The public may desire to know something of an author who pitches at such height his ambitious expectations. The gentle reader, therefore — for 1 am much of Captain Bobadil’s humour, and could to no other extend myself so far — th e gentle reader, then, will be pleased to under- 16 CHRONICLES OF stand, that 1 am a Scottish gentleman of the old school, with a fortune, temper, and person, rather the worse for wear. I have known the world for these forty years, having written myself man nearly since that period — and 1 do not think it is much mended. But this is an opinion which I keep to myself when 1 am among younger folk, for I recollect, in my youth, quizzing the Sexagenarians who carried back their ideas of a perfect state of society to the days of laced coats and triple ruffles, and some of them to the blood and blows of the Forty-five : There- fore I am cautious in exercising the right of censorship, which is supposed to be acquired by men arrived at, or approaching, the mysterious period of life, when the numbers of seven and nine multiplied into each other, form what sages have termed the Grand Climacteric. Of the earlier part of my life it is only necessary to say, that I swept the boards of the Parliament-House with the skirts of my gown for the usual number of years during which young Lairds were in my time expected to keep term — got no fees — laughed, and made others laugh — drank claret at Bayle’s, Fortune’s, and Walker’s — and eat oysters in the Covenant Close. Becoming my own master, i flung my gown at the bar- keeper, and commenced gay man on my own account. In Edinburgh, I ran into all the expensive society which the place then afforded. When I went to my house in the shire of Lanark, I emulated to the utmost the expen- ses of men of large fortune, and had my hunters, my first-* rate pointers, my game-cocks, and feeders. 1 can m6re easily forgive myself for these follies, than for others of a still more blameable kind, so indifferently cloaked over that my poor mother thought herself obliged to leave my habitation, and betake herself to a small inconvenient jointure-house, which she occupied till her death. I think, however, I was not exclusively to blame in this separation, and I believe my mother afterwards condemn- ed herself for being too hasty. Thank God, the adver- sity which destroyed the means of continuing my dissipa- tion, restored me to the affections of my surviving parent. THE CANONGATE. 17 My course of life could not last. I ran too fast to run long ; and when I would have checked my career, 1 was perhaps too near the brink of the precipice. Some mis- haps 1 prepared by my own folly, others came upon me unawares. I put my estate out to nurse to a fat man of business, who smothered the babe he should have brought back to me in health and strength, and, in dispute with this honest gentleman, 1 found, like a skilful general, that my position would be most judiciously assumed by taking it up near the Abbey of Holy rood. It was then I first became acquainted with the quarter, which my little work will, I hope, render immortal, and grew familiar with those magnificent wilds, through which the Kings of Scotland once chased the dark-brown deer, but which were chiefly recommended to me in those days, by their being inaccessible to those metaphysical persons, whom the law of the neighbouring country terms Joe and Rich- ard Doe. Dire was the strife betwixt my quondam doer and my- self ; during which my motions were circumscribed, like those of some conjured demon, within a circle, which, “ beginning at the northern gate of the King’s Park, thence running northways, is bounded on the left by the King’s garden-wall, and the gutter, or kennel, in a line wherewith it crosses the High Street to the Water-gate, and passing through the sewer, is bounded by the walls of the Tennis-court and Physic-garden, he. Then it fol- lows the walls of the church-yard, joins the north-west wall of St. Ann’s Yards, and going east to the clack mill- house, turns southward to the turnstile in the King’s park- wall, and includes the whole King’s Park within the Sanc- tuary.” These limits, which I abridge from the accurate Mait- land, once marked the Girth, or Asylum, belonging to the Abbey of Holy rood, and which, being still an appen- dage to the royal palace, has retained the privilege of an asylum for civil debt. One would think the space suffi- ciently extensive for a man to stretch his limbs in, as, 2* VOL. i. 18 CHRONICLES OF besides a reasonable proportion of level ground, (con- sidering that the scene lies in Scotland,) it includes within its precincts the mountain of Arthur’s Seat, and the rocks and pasture land called Salisbury Crags. But yet it is inexpressible how, after a certain time had elapsed, 1 used to long for the Sunday, which permitted me to extend my walk without limitation. During the other six days of the week 1 felt a sickness of heart, which, but for the speedy approach of the hebdomadal day of liberty, I could hardly have endured. I experienced the impatience of a mastiff, who tugs in vain to extend the limits which his chain permits. Day after day 1 have walked by the side of the kennel which divides the Sanctuary from the unprivileged part of the Canongate ; and though the month was July, and the scene was the old town of Edinburgh, I preferred it to the fresh air and verdant turf which I might have en- joyed in the King’s Park, or to the cool and solemn gloom of the portico which surrounds the palace. To an indif- ferent person either side of the gutter would have seemed much the same — the houses equally mean, the children as ragged and dirty, the carmen as brutal, the whole form- ing the same picture of low life in a deserted and impov- erished quarter of a large city. But to me the gutter, or kennel, was what the brook Kidron was to Shimei ; death was denounced against him should he cross it, doubtless because it was known to his wisdom who pro- nounced the doom, that from that time the devoted man’s desire to transgress the precept would become irresistible, and he would be sure to draw down on his head the penalty which he had already justly incurred by cursing the an- ointed of God. For my part, all Elysium seemed open- ing on tiie other side of the kennel, and I envied the little blackguards, who, stopping the current with their little dam-dikes of mud, had a right, during the operation, to stand on either side of the nasty puddle which best pleas- ed them. I was so childish as even to make an occasional excursion across, were it only for a few yards, and felt the triumph of a school- boy, who, trespassing in an orch- THE CANONGATE. 19 ard, hurries back again with a fluttering sensation of joy and terror, betwixt the pleasure of having executed his purpose, and the fear of being taken or discovered. 1 have sometimes asked myself, what I should have done in case of actual imprisonment, since I could not bear without impatience a restriction which is compar- atively a mere trifle ; but I really could never answer the question to my own satisfaction. ’ 1 have all my life hated those treacherous expedients called mezzo-termini , and it is possible with this disposition I might have endured more patiently an absolute privation of liberty, than the more modified restrictions to which my residence in the Sanctuary at this period subjected me. If, however, the feelings 1 then experienced were to increase in intensity according to the difference between a jail and my actual condition, I must have hanged myself, or pined to death ; there could have been no other alternative. Amongst many companions who forgot and neglected me of course, when my difficulties seemed to be inextricable, 1 had one true friend ; and that friend was a barrister, who knew the laws of his country well, and, tracing them up to the spirit of equity and justice in which they origin- ate, had repeatedly prevented, by his benevolent and manly exertions, the triumphs of selfish cunning over simplicity and folly. He undertook my cause, with the assistance of a solicitor of a character similar to his own. My quon- dam doer had intrenched himself chin-deep among legal trenches, hornworks, and covered ways ; but my two protectors shelled him out of his defences, and I was at length a free man, at liberty to go or stay wheresoever my mind listed. I left my lodging as hastily as if it had been a pest- house ; I did not even stop to receive some change that was due to me on settling with my landlady, and I saw the poor woman stand at her door looking after my pre- cipitate flight, and shaking her head as she wrapped the silver which she was counting for me in a separate piece of paper, apart from the store in her own moleskin purse. An honest Highlandwoman was Janet MacEvoy, and 20 CHRONICLES OF deserved a greater remuneration, had I possessed the power of bestowing it. But my eagerness of delight was too extreme to pause for explanation with Janet. On I pushed through the groups of children, of whose sports I had been so often a lazy lounging spectator. I sprung over the gutter as if it had been the fatal Styx, and I a ghost, which, eluding Pluto’s authority, was making its escape from Limbo lake. My friend had difficulty to restrain me from running like a madman up the street ; and in spite of his kindness and hospitality, which sooth- ed me for a day or two, I was not quite happy until I found myself aboard of a Leith smack, and, standing down the Frith with a fair wind, might snap my fingers at the retreating outline of Arthur’s Seat, to the vicinity of which I had been so long confined. It is not my purpose to trace my future progress through life. 1 had extricated myself, or rather had been freed by my friends, from the brambles and thickets of the law, but, as befell the sheep in the fable, a great part of my fleece was left behind me. Something remained, how- ever ; I was in the season for exertion, and, as my good mother used to say, there was always life for living folk. Stern necessity gave my manhood that prudence which my youth was a stranger to. I faced danger, I endured fatigue, I sought foreign climates, and proved that I belong- ed to the nation which is proverbially patient of labour and prodigal of life. Independence, like liberty to Vir- gil’s shepherd, came late, but came at last, with no great affluence in its train, but bringing enough to support a decent appearance for the rest of my life, and to induce cousins to be civil, and gossips to say, “ I winder who old Croft will make his heir c ? he must have picked up something, and I should not be surprised if it prove more than folk think of.” My first impulse when I returned home was to rush to the house of my benefactor, the only man who had in my distress interested himself in my behalf. He w T as a snuff- taker, and it had been the pride of my heart to save the ipsa corpora of the first score of guineas I could hoard, THE CANONGATE. 21 and to have them converted into as tasteful a snuff-box as Rundell and Bridge could devise. This I had thrust for security into the breast of my waistcoat, while, impatient to transfer it to the person for whom it was destined, I hastened to his house in square. When the front of the house became visible, a feeling of alarm checked me. I had been long absent from Scotland, my friend was some years older than I ; he* might have been called to the congregation of the just. I paused, and gazed on the house, as if I had hoped to form some conjecture from the outward appearance concerning the state of the fam- ily within. 1 know not how it was, but the lower win- dows being all closed and no one stirring, my sinister forebodings were rather strengthened. 1 regretted now that I had not made inquiry before I left the inn where I alighted from the mail-coach. But it was too late ; so I hurried on, eager to know the best or the worst which I could learn. The brass-plate bearing my friend’s name and desig- nation was still on the door, and when the door was opened, the old domestic appeared a good deal older I thought than he ought naturally to have looked, considering the pe- riod of my absence. “ Is Mr. at home 9” said I, pressing forward. “ Yes, sir,” said John, placing himself in opposition to my entrance, “ he is at home, but ” “ But he is not in,” said I. “ I remember your phrase of old, John. Come, I will step into his room, and leave a line for him.” John was obviously embarrassed by my familiarity. I was some one, he saw, w-hom he ought to recollect, at the same time it was evident he remembered nothing about me. “ Ay, sir, my master is in, and in his own room, but — ” I would not hear him out, but passed before him towards the well-known apartment. A young lady came out of the room a little disturbed, as it seemed, and said, “ John, what is the matter V 5 22 CHRONICLES OF “ A gentleman. Miss Nelly, that insists on seeing my master.” “ A very old and deeply indebted friend,” said I, “ that ventures to press myself on my much-respected benefactor on my return from abroad.” “ Alas, sir,” replied she, “ my uncle would be happy to see you, but” At this moment, something was heard within the apart- ment like the falling of a plate, or glass, and immediately after my friend’s voice called angrily and eagerly on his niece. She entered the room hastily, and so did I. But it was to see a spectacle, compared with which that of my benefactor stretched on his bier would have been a happy one. The easy-chair filled with cushions, the extended limbs swathed in flannel, the wide wrapping-gown and night-cap, showed illness ; but the dimmed eye, once so replete with living fire, the blabber lip, whose dilation and compression used to give such character U> his animated countenance, — the stammering tongue, that once poured forth such floods of masculine eloquence, and had often swayed the opinion of the sages whom he addressed, — all these sad symptoms evinced that my friend was in the melancholy condition of those in whom the principle of animal life has unfortunately survived that of mental in- telligence. He gazed a moment at me, but then seemed insensible of my presence, and went on — he, once the most courteous and well-bred — to babble unintelligible but violent reproaches against his niece and servant, be- cause he himself had dropped a tea-cup in attempting to place it on a table at his elbow. His eyes caught a momentary fire from his irritation ; but he struggled in vain for words to express himself adequately, as, looking from his servant to his niece, and then to the table, he laboured to explain that they had placed it (though it touched his chair) at too great a distance from him. The young person, who had naturally a resigned Ma- donna-like expression of countenance, listened to his im- patient chiding with the most humble submission, checked TIIE CANONGATE. 23 the servant, whose less delicate feelings would have en- tered on his justification, and gradually, by the sweet and soft tones of her voice, soothed to rest the spirit of cause- less irritation. She then cast a look towards me, which expressed, “ You see all that remains of him whom you call friend.” It seemed also to say, “ Your longer presence here can only be distressing to us all.” “ Forgive me, young lady,” I said, as well as tears would permit; — “ I am a person deeply obliged to your uncle. My name is Croftangry.” “ Lord ! and that I should not hae minded ye, Maister Croftangry,” said the servant. “ Ay, I mind my master had muckle fash about your job. I hae heard him order in fresh candles as midnight chappit, and till’t again. In- deed, ye had ay his gude word, Mr. Croftangry, for a* that folks said about you.” “ Hold your tongue, John,” said the lady, somewhat angrily ; and then continued, addressing herself to me, “ I am sure, sir, you must be sorry to see my uncle in this state. I know you are his friend. I have heard him mention your name, and wonder he never heard from you.” — A new cut this, and it went to my heart. But she continued, “ I really do not know if it is right that any should — If my uncle should know you, which I scarce think possible, he would be much affected, and the doctor says that any agitation But here comes Dr. * to give his own opinion. Dr. entered. I had left him a middle-aged man ; he was now an elderly one ; but still the same benevo- lent Samaritan, who went about doing good, and thought the blessings of the poor as good a recompense of his pro- fessional skill as the gold of the rich. He looked at me with surprise, but the young lady said a word of introduction, and I, who was known to the doctor formerly, hastened to complete it. He recollected me perfectly, and intimated that he was well acquainted with the reasons l had for being deeply interested in the fate of his patient. He gave me a very melancholy ac- 24 CHRONICLES OF count of my poor friend, drawing me for that purpose a little apart from the lady. “ The light of life,” he said, “ was trembling in the socket ; he scarcely expected it would ever leap up even into a momentary flash, but more was impossible.” He then stepped towards his patient, and put some questions, to which the poor invalid, though he seemed to recognize the friendly and familiar voice, answered only in a faltering and uncertain manner. The young lady, in her turn, had drawn back when the doctor approached his patient. “ You see how it is with him,” said the doctor, addressing me ; “ I have heard our poor friend, in one of the most eloquent of his pleadings, give a description of this very disease, which he compared to the tortures inflicted by Mezentius, w r hen he chained the dead to the living. The soul, he said, is imprisoned in its dungeon of flesh, and though retaining its natural and unalienable properties, can no more exert them than the captive inclosed within a prison-house can act as a free agent. Alas ! to see him , who could so well describe what this malady was in others, a prey himself to its infirmities ! I shall never forget the solemn tone of expression with which he summed up the incapacities of the paralytic, — the deafened ear, the dimmed eye, the crippled limbs, — in the noble words of Juvenal — *' omni Membrorum damno major, dementia, quae nec Nomina servorum, nec vultum agnoscit amici.’ ” As the physician repeated these lines, a flash of intel- ligence seemed to revive in the invalid’s eye — sunk again — again struggled, and he spoke more intelligibly than before, and in the tone of one eager to say something which he felt would escape him unless said instantly. “ A question of death-bed, a question of death-bed, doc- tor — a reduction ex capite lecti — Withering against Wili- bus — about the morbus sonticus. I pleaded the cause for the pursuer — I, and — and — Why, I shall forget my own name — J, and — he that was the wittiest and the best- humoured man living ” THE CANON GATE. 25 The description enabled the doctor to fill up the blank, and the patient joyfully repeated the name suggested. “ Ay, ay,” he said, “just he — Harry — poor Harry” The light in his eye died away, and he sunk back in his easy-chair. “ You have now seen more of our poor friend Mr. Croftangry,” said the physician, “ than I dared venture to promise you ; and now 1 must take my professional authority on me, and ask you to retire. Miss will, I am sure, let you know if a moment should by any chance occur when her uncle can see you.” What could I do I gave my card to the young lady, and, taking my offering from my bosom — “ If my poor friend,” 1 said, with accents as broken almost as his own, “ should ask where this came from, name me ; and say from the most obliged and most grateful man alive. Say, the gold of which it is composed was saved by grains at a time, and was hoarded with as much avarice as ever was a miser’s : — to bring it here 1 have come a thousand miles, and now, alas, I find him thus !” I laid the box on the table, and was retiring with a lin- gering step. The eye of the invalid was caught by it, as that of a child by a glittering toy, and with infantine impatience he faltered out inquiries at his niece. With gentle mildness she repeated again and again who I was, and why I came, &c. I w r as about to turn, and hasten from a scene so painful, when the physician laid his hand on my sleeve — “ Stop,” he said, “ there is a change.” There was indeed, and a marked one. A faint glow spread over his pallid features — they seemed to gain the look of intelligence which belongs to vitality — his eye once more kindled — his lip coloured — and drawing him- self up out of the listless posture he had hitherto main- tained, he rose without assistance. The doctor and the servant ran to give him their support. He waved them aside, and they were contented to place themselves in such a position behind as might ensure against accident, 3 VOL. 1. 26 CHRONICLES OF should his newly-acquired strength decay as suddenly as it had revived. “ My dear Croftangry,” he said, in the tone of kind- ness of other days, “ I am glad to see you returned — You find me but poorly — but my little niece here and Dr. — are very kind — God bless you, my dear friend ! we shall not meet again till we meet in a better world.” I pressed his extended hand to my lips — I pressed it to my bosom — I would fain have flung myself on rny knees ; but the doctor, leaving the patient to the young lady and the servant, who wheeled forward his chair, and were replacing him in it, hurried me out of the room. “ My dear sir,” he said, “ you ought to be satisfied ; you have seen our poor invalid more like his former self than he has been for months, or than he may be perhaps again until all is over. The whole Faculty could not have as- sured such an interval — 3 must see whether anything can be derived from it to improve the general health — Pray, begone.” The last argument hurried me from the spot, agitated by a crowd of feelings, all of them painful. When I had overcome the shock of this great disap- pointment, I renewed gradually my acquaintance with one or two old companions, who, though of infinitely less in- terest to my feelings than my unfortunate friend, served to relieve the pressure of actual solitude, and who were not perhaps the less open to my advances, that I was a bach- elor somewhat stricken in years, newly arrived from for- eign parts, and certainly independent, if not wealthy. 1 was considered as a tolerable subject of speculation by some, and 1 could not be burdensome to any : I was therefore, according to the ordinary rule of Edinburgh hospitality, a welcome guest in several respectable fami- lies ; but I found no one who could replace the loss I had sustained in my best friend and benefactor. I wanted something more than mere companionship could give me, and where was I to look for it 9 — among the scattered THE CANONGATE. 27 remnants of those that had been my gay friends of yore ? — alas ! Many a lad I loved was dead, And many a lass grown old. Besides, all community of ties between us had ceased to exist, and such of my former friends as were still in the world, held their life in a different tenor from what 1 did. Some had become misers, and \vere as eager in saving sixpence as ever they had been in spending a guinea. Some had turned agriculturists — their talk was of oxen, and they were only fit companions for graziers. Some stuck to cards, and though no longer deep gamblers, rather played small game than sat out. This 1 particularly de- spised. The strong impulse of gaming, alas ! 1 had felt in my time — it is as intense as it is criminal ; but it pro- duces excitation and interest, and I can conceive how it should become a passion with strong and powerful minds. But to dribble away life in exchanging bits of painted pasteboard round a green table, for the piddling concern of a few shillings, can only be excused in folly or super- annuation. It is like riding on a rocking-horse, where your utmost exertion never carries you a foot forward ; it is a kind of mental tread-mill, where you are perpetu- ally climbing, but can never rise an inch. From these hints, my readers will perceive I am incapacitated for one of the pleasures of old age, which, though not mentioned by Cicero, is not the least frequent resource in the present day — the club-room, and the snug hand at whist. To return to my old companions : Some frequented public assemblies, like the ghost of Beau Nash, or any other beau of half a century back, thrust aside by titter- ing youth, and pitied by those of their own age. In fine, some went into devotion, as the French term it, and others, I fear, went to the devil ; a few found resources in sci- ence and letters ; one or two turned philosophers in a small way, peeped into microscopes, and became familiar with the fashionable experiments of the day. Some took to reading, and I was one of them. 28 CHRONICLES OF Some grains of repulsion towards the society around me — some painful recollections of early faults and follies — some touch of displeasure with living mankind, inclin- ed me rather to a study of antiquities, and particularly those of my own country. The reader, if 1 can prevail on myself to continue the present work, will probably be able to judge, in the course of it, whether I have made any useful progress in the study of the olden times. 1 owed this turn of study, in part, to the conversation of my kind man of business, Mr. Fairscribe, whom I mentioned as having seconded the efforts of my invalua- ble friend, in bringing the cause on which my liberty and the remnant of my property depended, to a favourable decision. He had given me a most kind reception on my return. He was too much engaged in his profession for me to intrude on him often, and perhaps his mind was too much trammelled with its details to permit his being willingly withdrawn from them. In short, he was not a person of my poor friend ’s expanded spirit, and rather a lawyer of the ordinary class of formalists, but a most able and excellent man. When my estate was sold, he retained some of the older title-deeds, arguing, from his own feelings, that they would be of more consequence to the heir of the old family than to the new purchaser. And when I returned to Edinburgh, and found him still in the exercise of the profession to which he was an hon- our, he sent to my lodgings the old family-hible, which lay always on my father’s table, two or three other mouldy volumes, and a couple of sheep-skin bags, full of parch- ments and papers, whose appearance was by no means inviting. The next time 1 shared Mr. Fairscribe’s hospitable dinner, I failed not to return him due thanks for his kind- ness, which acknowledgment, indeed, I proportioned rather to the idea which I knew he entertained of the value of such things, than to the interest with which I myself regarded them. But the conversation turning on my family, who were old proprietors in the Upper Ward of Clydesdale, gradually excited some interest in my THE CANONGATE. 29 mind ; and when I retired to my solitary parlour, the first thing I did was to look for a pedigree, or sort of history of the family, or House of Croftangry, once of that Ilk, latterly of Glentanner. The discoveries which I made shall enrich the next chapter. CHAPTER II. 11 What’s property, dear Swift ? I see it alter From you to me, from me to Peter Walter. Pope. “ Croftangry — Croftandrew — Croftanridge — Croft- andgrey — for sa rnony wise hath the name been spellit — is weel known to be ane house of grit antiquity ; and it is said, that King Milcolumb, or Malcolm, being the first of our Scottish princes quha removit across the Firth of Forth, did reside and occupy ane palace at Edinburgh, and had there ane valziant man, who did him man-service, by keeping the croft, or corn-land, which was tilled for the convenience of the King’s household, and was thence callit Croft-an-ri, that is to say, the King his croft ; quhilk place, though now coverit with biggings, is to this day called Croftangry, and lyeth near to the royal palace. And whereas that some of those who bear this auld and honourable name may take scorn that it ariseth from the tilling of the ground, quhilk men account a slavish occu- pation, yet we ought to honour the pleugh and spade, seeing we all derive our being from our father Adam, wdiose lot it became to cultivate the earth, in respect of his fall and transgression. “ Also we have witness, as weel in holy writt as in profane history, of the honour in quhilk husbandrie was held of old, and how prophets have been taken from the pleugh, and great captains raised up to defend their ain 3 * VOL. I. 30 CHRONICLES OF countries, sic as Cincinnatus, and the like, who fought not the common enemy with the less valiancy that their arms had been exercized in balding the stilts of the pleugh, and their bellicose skill in driving of yauds and owsen. “ Likewise there are sindry honourable families, quhilk are now of our native Scottish nobility, and have clombe higher up the brae of preferment than what this house of Croftangry hath done, quhilk shame not to carry in their warlike shield and insignia of dignity, the tools and imple- ments the quhilk their first forefathers exercised in labour- ing the croft-rig, or, as the poet Virgilius calleth it elo- quently, in subduing the soil. And no doubt this ancient house of Croftangry, while it continued to be called of that Ilk, produced many worshipful and famous patriots, of quhom I now prsetermit the names ; it being my pur- pose, if God shall spare me life for sic ane pious officium, or duty, to resume the first part of my narrative touching the House of Croftangry, when I can set down at length the evidents, and historical witness anent the facts which J shall allege, seeing that words, when they are unsup- ported by proofs, are like seed sown on the naked rocks, or like an house biggit on the flitting and faithless sands.” Here I stopped to draw breath ; for the style of my grandsire, the inditer of this goodly matter, was rather lengthy, as our American friends say. Indeed, I reserve the rest of the piece until I can obtain admission to the Bannatyne Club, when I propose to throw off an edition, limited according to the rules of that erudite Society, with a fac-simile of the manuscript, emblazonry of the family arms, surrounded by their quartering, and a handsome disclamation of family pride, with Hac nos novimus esse nihil , or Vix ea nostra voco. In the meantime, to speak truth, I cannot but suspect, that though my worthy ancestor puffed vigorously to swell up the dignity of his family, we had never, in fact, risen above the rank of middling proprietors. The estate of Glentanner came to us by the intermarriage of my ances- tor with Tib Sommeril, termed by the southrons Som-* merville, a daughter of that noble house, but I fear on THE CANONGATE. 31 what my great-grandsire calls “ the wrong side of the blanket.” Her husband, Gilbert, was killed fighting, as the Inquisitio post mortem has it, “ sub vexillo regis , apud prcelium juxta Branxton , lie Floddenfield .” We had our share in other national misfortunes — were forfeited, like Sir John Colville of the Dale, for following our betters to the field of Langside ; and in the conten- tious times of the last Stuarts, we were severely fined for harbouring and resetting intercommuned ministers ; and narrowly escaped giving a martyr to the Calendar of the Covenant, in the person of the father of our family his- torian. He “ took the sheaf from the mare,” however, as the MS. expresses it, and agreed to accept of the terms of pardon offered by government, and sign the bond, in evidence he would give no farther ground of offence. My grandsire glosses over his father’s backsliding as smoothly as he can, and comforts himself with ascribing his want of resolution to his unwillingness to wreck the ancient name and family, and to permit his lands and lin- eage to fall under a doom of forfeiture. “ And indeed,” said the venerable compiler, “ as, prais- ed be God, we seldom meet in Scotland with these belly- gods and voluptuaries, whilk are unnatural enough to devour their patrimony bequeathed to them by their for- bears in chambering and wantonness, so that they come, with the prodigal son, to the husks and the swine-trough ; and as I have the less to dreid the existence of such un- natural Neroes in mine own family to devour the substance of their own house like the brute beasts out of mere glut- tonie and Epicurishnesse, so I need only warn mine de- scendants against over hastily meddling with the mutations in state and in religion, which have been near-hand to the bringing this poor house of Croftangry to perdition, as we have shown more than once. And albeit I would not that my successors sat still altogether when called on by their duty to Kirk and King ; yet I would have them wait till stronger and walthier men nor themselves were up, so that either they may have the better chance of getting through the day ; or, failing of that, the conquering party 32 CHRONICLES OF having some fatter quarry to live upon, may, like gorged hawks, spare the smaller game.” There was something in this conclusion which at first reading piqued me extremely, and I was so unnatural as to curse the whole concern, as poor, bald, pitiful trash, in which a silly old man w 7 as saying a great deal about noth- ing at all. Nay, my first impression was to thrust it into the fire, the rather that it reminded me, in no very flat- tering manner, of the loss of the family property, to which the compiler of the history was so much attached, in the very manner which he most severely reprobated. It even seemed to my aggrieved feelings, that his unpre- scient gaze on futurity, in which he could not anticipate the folly of one of his descendants, who should throw away the whole inheritance in a few years of idle expense and folly, was meant as a personal incivility to myself, though written fifty or sixty years before I was born. A little reflection made me ashamed of this feeling of impatience, and as I looked at the even, concise, yet trem- ulous hand in which the manuscript w as written, I could not help thinking, according to an opinion I have heard seriously maintained, that something of a man’s character may be conjectured from his handwriting. That neat, but crowded and constrained small hand, argued a man of a good conscience, well regulated passions, and, to use his own phrase, an upright walk in life ; but it also indi- cated narrowness of spirit, inveterate prejudice, and hint- ed at some degree of intolerance, which, though not natural to the disposition, had arisen out of a limited edu- cation. The passages from Scripture and the classics, rather profusely than happily introduced, and written in a half-text character to mark their importance, illustrated that peculiar sort of pedantry which always considers the argument as gained, if secured by a quotation. Then the flourished capital letters, which ornamented the com- mencement of each paragraph, and the name of his fam- ily and of his ancestors, whenever these occurred in the page, do they not express forcibly the pride and sense of importance with which the author undertook and accom- TIIE CANONGATE. 33 plished his task ? 1 persuaded myself, the whole was so complete a portrait of the man, that it would not have been a more undutiful act to have defaced his picture, or even to have disturbed his bones in his coflin, than to destroy his manuscript. 1 thought, for a moment, of presenting it to Mr. Fairscribe; but that confounded passage about the prodigal and swine-trough — I settled at last it was as well to lock it up in my own bureau, with the intention to look at it no more. But 1 do not know how it was, that the subject began to sit nearer my heart than I was aware of, and I found myself repeatedly engaged in reading descriptions of farms which were no longer mine, and boundaries which marked the property of others. A love of the natale solum , if Swift be right in translating these words, “ fam- ily estate,” began to awaken in my bosom ; the recollec- tions of my own youth adding little to it, save what was connected with field sports. A career of pleasure is un- favourable for acquiring a taste for natural beauty, and still more so for forming associations of a sentimental kind, connecting us with the inanimate objects around us. I had thought little about my estate, while I possessed and was wasting it, unless as affording the rude materials out of which a certain inferior race of creatures, called tenants, were bound to produce (in a greater quantity than they actually did) a certain return called rent, which was destined to supply my expenses. This was my general view of the matter. Of particular places, 1 recollected that Garval-hill was a famous piece of rough upland pas- ture, for rearing young colts, and teaching them to throw their feet, — that Minion-burn had the finest yellow trout in the country,— that Seggycleugh was unequalled for woodcocks, — that Ben-gibbert moors afforded excellent moorfowl-shooting, and that the clear bubbling fountain called the Harper’s Well, was the best recipe in the world on the morning after a Hard-go with my neighbour fox- hunters. Still these ideas recalled, by degrees, pictures, of which I had since learned to appreciate the merit — scenes of silent loneliness, where extensive moors, undu- 34 CHRONICLES OF lating into wild hills, were only disturbed by the whistle of the plover, or the crow of the heath-cock ; wild ravines creeping up into mountains, filled with natural wood, and which, when traced downwards along the path formed by shepherds and nutters, were found gradually to enlarge and deepen, as each formed a channel to its own brook, sometimes bordered by steep banks of earth, often with the more romantic boundary of naked rocks or cliffs, crested with oak, mountain-ash, and hazel, — all gratify- ing the eye the more that the scenery was, from the bare nature of the country around, totally unexpected. I had recollections, too, of fair and fertile holms, or level plains, extending between the wooded banks and the bold stream of the Clyde, which, coloured like pure am- ber, or rather having the hue of the pebbles called Cairn- gorm, rushes over sheets of rock and beds of gravel, inspiring a species of awe from the few and faithless fords which it presents, and the frequency of fatal accidents, now diminished by the number of new bridges. These alluvial holms were frequently bordered by triple and quadruple rows of immensely large trees, which gracefully marked their boundary, and dipped their long arms into the foaming stream of the river. — Other places I remem- bered, which had been described by the old huntsman as the lodge of tremendous wild-cats, or the spot where tra- dition stated the mighty stag to have been brought to bay, or where heroes, whose might was now as much forgot- ten, were said to have been slain by surprise, or in battle. It is not to be supposed that these finished landscapes became visible before the eyes of my imagination, as the scenery of the stage is disclosed by the rising of the cur- tain. I have said, that J had looked upon the country around me, during the hurried and dissipated period of my life, with the eyes indeed of my body, but without those of my understanding. It was piece by piece, as a child picks out its lesson, that I began to recollect the beauties of nature which had once surrounded me in the home of my forefathers. A natural taste for them must have lurked at the bottom of my heart, which awakened THE CANON GATE. 35 when I was in foreign countries, and becoming by degrees a favourite passion, gradually turned its eyes inwards, and ransacked the neglected stores which my memory had involuntarily recorded, and when excited, exerted herself to collect and to complete. I began now to regret more bitterly than ever the hav- ing fooled away my family properly, the care and im- provement of which I saw might have afforded an agree- able employment for my leisure, .which only went to brood on past misfortunes, and increase useless repining. “ Had but a single farm been reserved, however small,” said I one day to Mr. Fairscribe, “ I should have had a place I could call my home, and something that I could call business.” “It might have been managed,” answered Fairscribe; “ and for my part, I inclined to keep the mansion-house, mains, and some of the old family acres, together ; but both Mr. and you were of opinion that the money would be more useful.” “True, true, my good friend,” said J,-“ I was a fool then, and did not think I could incline to be Glentanner with £.200 or £.300 a-year, instead of Glentanner with as many thousands. I was then a haughty, petted, igno- rant, dissipated, broken-down Scotch laird ; and thinking my imaginary consequence altogether ruined, I cared not how soon, or how absolutely, I was rid of every thing that recalled it to my own memory, or that of others.” “ And now it is like you have changed your mind 9” said Fairscribe. “ Well, fortune is apt to circumduce the term upon us ; but I think she may allow you to revise your condescendence.” “ How do you mean, my good friend 9” “ Nay,” said Fairscribe, “ there is ill luck in averring till one is sure of his facts. I will look back on a file of newspapers, and to-morrow you shall hear from me ; come, help yourself — I have seen you fill your glass higher.” “And shall see it again,” said I, pouring out what re- mained of our bottle of claret ; “ the wine is capital, and so shall our toast be — To your fireside, my good friend. 3G CHRONICLES OF And now we shall go beg a Scots song without foreign graces, from my little siren Miss Kattie.” The next day accordingly 1 received a parcel from Mr. Fairseribe with a newspaper enclosed, among the advertisements of which, one was marked with a cross as requiring my attention. I read to my surprise — “ DESIRABLE ESTATE FOR SALE. “ By order of the Lords of Council and Session, will be exposed to sale in the New Sessions House of Edin- burgh, upon Wednesday the 25th November 18 — , all and whole the lands and barony of Glentanner, now called Castle-Treddles, lying in the Middle Ward of Clydesdale, and shire of Lanark, with the teinds, parsonage and vic- arage, fishings in the Clyde, woods, mosses, moors, and pasturages,” he. he. The advertisement went on to set forth the advantages of the soil, situation, natural beauties and capabilities of improvement, not forgetting its being a freehold estate, with the particular polypus capacity of being sliced up into two, three, or, with a little assistance, four freehold qual- ifications, and a hint that the county was likely to be eagerly contested between two great families. The- upset price at which “ the said lands and barony and others” were to be exposed, was thirty years’ purchase of the proven rental, which was about a fourth more than the property had fetched at the last sale. This, which was mentioned, 1 suppose to snow the improvable character of the land, would have given another some pain ; but let me speak truth of myself in good as in evil — it pained not me. 1 was only angry that Fairseribe, who knew some- thing generally of the extent of my funds, should have tantalized me by sending me information that my family property was in the market, since he must have known that the price was far out of my reach. But a letter dropped from the parcel on the floor, which attracted my eye, and explained the riddle. A client of Mr. Fairscribe’s, a monied man, thought of buying Glen- THE CANON G ATE. 37 tanner, merely as an investment of money — it was even unlikely he would ever see it ; and so the price of the whole being some thousand pounds beyond what cash he had on hand, this accommodating Dives would gladly take a partner in the sale for any detached farm, and would make no objection to its including the most desirable part of the estate in point of beauty, providing that the price was made adequate. Mr. Fairscribe would take care I was not imposed on in the matter, and said in his card, he believed, if 1 really wished to make such a purchase, I had better go out and look at the premises, advising me, at the same time, to keep a strict incognito ; an advice somewhat superfluous, since 1 am naturally of a retired and reserved disposition. CHAPTER III. Then sing of stage-coaches, And fear no reproaches For riding in one ; But daily be jogging, Whilst, whistling and flogging, Whilst, whistling and flogging, The coachman drives on. Farquhar . Disguised in a grey surtout which had seen service, a white castor on my head, and a stout Indian cane in my hand, the next week saw me on the top of a mail-coach driving to the westward. I like mail-coaches, and I hate them. I like them for my convenience, but I detest them for setting the whole world a-gadding, instead of sitting quietly still minding their own business, and preserving the stamp of originality of character which nature or education may have impres- 4 VOL. I. 38 CHRONICLES OF sed on them. Off they go, jingling against each other in the rattling vehicle till they have no more variety of stamp in them than so many smooth shillings — the same even in their Welsh wigs and great coats, each without more in- dividuality than belongs to a partner of the company, as the waiter calls them, of the North coach. Worthy Mr. Piper, best of contractors who ever fur- nished four frampal jades for public use, I bless you when I set out on a journey myself; the neat coaches under your contract render the intercourse, from Johnie Groat’s house to Ladykirk and Cornhill Bridge, safe, pleasant, and cheap. But, Mr. Piper, you, who are a shrewd arithmetician, did it never occur to you to calculate how many fool’s heads, which might have produced an idea or two in the year, if suffered to remain in quiet, get effect- ually addled by jolting to and fro in these flying chariots of yours ; how many decent countrymen become con- ceited bumpkins after a cattle-show dinner in the capital, which they could not have attended save for your means ; how many decent country parsons return critics and spouters, by way of importing the newest taste from Edin- burgh % And how will your conscience answer one day for carrying so many bonny lasses to barter modesty for conceit and levity at the metropolitan Vanity Fair 9 Consider, too, the low rate to which you reduce human intellect. 1 do not believe your habitual customers have their ideas more enlarged than one of your coach-horses. They knows the road, like the English postillion, and they know nothing beside. They date, like the carriers at Gadshill, from the death of John Ostler ; the succession of guards forms a dynasty in their eyes ; coachmen are their ministers of state, and an upset is to them a greater incident than a change of administration. Their only point of interest on the road is to save the time, and see whether the coach keeps the hour. This is surely a mis- erable degradation of human intellect. Take my advice, my good sir, and disinterestedly contrive that once or twice a quarter, your most dexterous whip shall overturn a coachful of these superfluous travellers, in terrorem to THE CANON GATE. 39 those who, as Horace says, “ delight in the dust raised by your chariots.” Your current and customary mail-coach passenger, too, gets abominably selfish, schemes successfully for the best seat, the freshest egg, the right cut of the sirloin. The mode of travelling is death to all the courtesies and kind- nesses of life, and goes a great way to demoralize the character, and cause it to retrograde to barbarism. You allow us excellent dinners, but pnly twenty minutes to eat them ; and what is the consequence Bashful beauty sits on the one side of us, timid childhood on the other ; re- spectable, yet somewhat feeble old age is placed on our front ; and all require those acts of politeness which ought to put every degree upon a level at the convivial board. But have we time — we the strong and active of the party — to perform the duties of the table to the more retired and bashful, to whom these little attentions are due The lady should be pressed to her chicken — the old man help- ed to his favourite and tender slice — the child to his tart. But not a fraction of a minute have we to bestow on any other person than ourselves ; and the prut prut — tut-tut of the guard’s discordant note, summons us to the coach, the weaker party having gone without their dinner, and the able-bodied and active threatened with indigestion from having swallowed victuals like a Lei’stershire clown bolting bacon. On the memorable occasion lam speaking of I lost my breakfast, sheerly from obeying the commands of a re- spectable-looking old lady, who once required me to ring the bell, and another time to help the tea-kettle. I have some reason to think she was literally an old Stager , who laughed in her sleeve at my complaisance ; so that I have sworn in my secret soul revenge upon her sex, and all such errant damsels of whatever age and degree, whom I may encounter in my travels. I mean all this without the least ill-will to my friend the contractor, who, I think, has approached as near as any one is like to do towards ac- 40 CHRONICLES OF complishing the modest wish of the Amatus and Amata of the Peri Bathos, Ye gods, annihilate but time and space, And make two lovers happy. I intend to give Mr. P. his full revenge when I come to discuss the more recent enormity of steam-boats ; meanwhile, I shall only say of both these modes of con- veyance, that There is no living with them or without them. I am perhaps more critical on the — 1 — mail-coach on this particular occasion, that I did not meet all the respect from the worshipful company in his Majesty’s carriage that I think I was entitled to. I must say it for myself, that I bear, in my own opinion at least, not a vulgar point about me. My face has seen service, but there is still a good set of teeth, an aquiline nose, and a quick grey eye, set a little too deep under the eye-brow ; and a cue of the kind once called military, may serve to show that my civil occupations have been sometimes mixed with those of war. Nevertheless, two idle young fellows in the ve- hicle, or rather on the top of it, were so much amused with the deliberation which I used in ascending to the same place of eminence, that I thought I should have been obliged to pull them up a little. And I was in no good- humour, at an unsuppressed laugh following my descent, when set down at the angle, where a cross road, striking off from the main one, led me towards Glentanner, from which I was still nearly five miles distant. It was an old-fashioned road, which, preferring ascents to sloughs, was led in a straight line over height and hol- low, through moor and dale. Every object around me, as I passed them in succession, reminded me of old days, and at the same time formed the strongest contrast with them possible. Unattended, on foot, with a small bundle in my hand, deemed scarce sufficient goo 1 company for the two shabby genteels with whom J had been lately perched on the top of a mail-coach, I did not seem to be the same TIIE CANONGATE. 41 person with the young prodigal, who lived with the noblest and gayest in the land, and who, thirty years before, would, in the same country, have been on the back of a horse that had been victor for a plate, or smoking along in his travelling chaise-and-four. My sentiments were not less changed than my condition. I could quite well remember, that my ruling sensation in the days of heady youth, was a mere schoolboy’s eagerness to get farthest forward in the race in which 1 had engaged ; to drink as many bottles as ; to be thought as good a judge of a horse as ; to have the knowing cut of ’s jacket. These were thy gods, O Israel ! Now I was a mere looker-on ; seldom an unmoved, and sometimes an angry spectator, but still a spectator only, of the pursuits of mankind. I felt how little my opinion was valued by those engaged in the busy turmoil, yet 1 exercised it with the profusion of an old lawyer re- tired from his profession, who thrusts himself into his neighbour’s affairs, and gives advice where it is not want- ed, merely under pretence of loving the crack of the whip. i came amid these reflections to the brow of a hill, from which I expected to see Glentanner ; a modest- looking yet comfortable house, its walls covered with the most productive fruit trees in that part of the country, and screened from the most stormy quarters of the hori- zon by a deep and ancient wood, which overhung the neighbouring hill. The house was gone ; a great part of the wood was felled ; and instead of the gentlemanlike mansion, shrouded and embosomed among its old he- reditary trees, stood Castle-Treddles, a huge lumping four- square pile of freestone, as bare as my nail, except for a paltry edging of decayed and lingering exotics, with an impoverished lawn stretched before it, which, instead of boasting deep green tapestry, enamelled with daisies, and with crowsfoot and cowslips, showed an extent of naked- ness, raked, indeed, and levelled, but where the sown grasses had failed with drought, and the earth, retaining 4 * VOL., i. 42 CHRONICLES OE its natural complexion, seemed nearly as brown and bare as when it was newly dug up. The house was a large fabric, which pretended to its name of Castle only from the front windows being finish- ed in acute Gothic arches (being, by the way, the very reverse of the castellated style), and each angle graced with a turret about the size of a pepper-box. In every other respect it resembled a large town-house, which, like a fat burgess, had taken a walk to the country on a holi- day, and climbed to the top of an eminence to look around it. The bright red colour of the freestone, the size of the building, the formality of its shape, and awkwardness of its position, harmonized as ill with the sweeping Clyde in front, and the bubbling brook which danced down on the right, as the fat civic form, with bushy wig, gold-headed cane, maroon-coloured coat, and mottled silk stockings, would have accorded with the wild and magnificent scene- ry of Corehouse Linn. I went up to the house. It was in that state of deser- tion which is perhaps the most unpleasant to look on, for the place was going to decay, without having been inhab- ited. There were about the mansion, though deserted, none of the slow mouldering touches of time, which com- municate to buildings, as to the human frame, a sort of reverence, while depriving them of beauty and of strength. The disconcerted schemes of the Laird of Castle-Tred- dles, had resembled fruit that becomes decayed without ever having ripened. Some windows broken, others patched, others blocked up with deals, gave a disconso- late air to all around, and seemed to say, “ There Vanity had purposed to fix her seat, but was anticipated by Poverty.” To the inside, after many a vain summons, I was at length admitted by an old labourer. The house contain- ed every contrivance for luxury and accommodation ; — the kitchens were a model, and there were hot closets on the office staircase, that the dishes might not cool, as our Scotch phrase goes, between the kitchen and the hall. But instead of the genial smell of good cheer, these tem- THE CANONGATE. 43 pies of Comus emitted the damp odour of sepulchral vaults, and the large cabinets of cast-iron looked like the cages of some feudal Bastille. The eating-room and drawing- room, with an interior boudoir, were magnificent apart- ments, the ceilings fretted and adorned with stucco-work, which already was broken in many places, and looked in others damp and mouldering ; the wood pannelling was shrunk and warped, and cracked ; the doors, which had not been hung for more than two years, were, neverthe- less, already swinging loose from their hinges. Desola- tion, in short, was where enjoyment had never been ; and the want of all the usual means to preserve, was fast per- forming the work of decay. The story was a common one, and told in a few words. Mr. Treddles, senior, who bought the estate, was a cau- tious money-making person ; his son, still embarked in commercial speculations, desired at the same time to en- joy his opulence and to increase it. He incurred great expenses, amongst which this edifice was to be numbered. To support these he speculated boldly, and unfortunate- ly ; and thus the whole history is told, which may serve for more places than Glentanner. Strange and various feelings ran through my bosom, as 1 loitered in these deserted apartments, scarce hearing what my guide said to me about the size and destination of each room. The first sentiment, 1 am ashamed to say, was one of gratified spite. My patrician pride was pleas- ed, that the mechanic, who had not thought the house of the Croftangrys sufficiently good for him, had now ex- perienced a fall in his turn. My next thought was as mean, though not so malicious. 44 I have had the better of this fellow,” thought 1 ; 44 if I lost the estate, I at least spent the price ; and Mr. Treddles has lost his among paltry commercial engagements.” 44 Wretch !” said the secret voice within, 44 darest thou exult in thy shame 9 Recollect how thy youth and for- tune were wasted in those years, and triumph not in the enjoyment of an existence which levelled thee with the beasts that perish. Bethink thee, how this poor man’s 44 CHRONICLES OF vanity gave at least bread to the labourer, peasant, and citizen ; and his profuse expenditure, like water spilt on the ground, refreshed the lowly herbs and plants where it fell. But thou ! whom hast thou enriched, during thy career of extravagance, save those brokers of the devil, vintners, panders, gamblers, and horse-jockeys V’ The anguish produced by this self-reproof was so strong, that I put my hand suddenly to my forehead, and was obliged to allege a sudden megrim to my attendant, in apology for the action, and a slight groan with which it was ac- companied. I then made an effort to turn my thoughts into a more philosophical current, and muttered half aloud, as a charm to lull any more painful thoughts to rest — Nunc ager Umbreni sub nomine, nuper Ofelli Dictus , erit nulli proprius ; sed cedet in usum Nunc rnihi, nunc alii. Quocirca vivite fortes , Fortiaque adversis opponite pectora rebus.* In my anxiety to fix the philosophical precept in my mind, I recited the last line aloud, which, joined to my previous agitation, I afterwards found became the cause of a re- port, that a mad schoolmaster had come from Edinburgh, with the idea in his head of buying Castle-Treddles. As I saw my companion was desirous of getting rid of me, I asked where I was to find the person in whose hands were left the map of the estate, and other particulars con- nected with the sale. The agent who had this in pos- session, I was told, lived at the town of — ; which * Horace, Sat n. Lib. 2. The meaning will be best conveyed to the English reader iti Pope’s imitation : — What’s property, dear Swift ? you see it alter From you to me, from me to Peter Walter; Or in a mortgage prove a lawyer’s share ; Or in a jointure vanish from the heir. *.#*# #**# Shades, that to Bacon could retreat afford, Become the portion of a booby lord ; A nd Helmsiev, once proud Buckingham’s delight, Slides to a scrivener and city knight. Let lands and houses have what lords they will, Let us be fix’d, and our own masters still. THE CANONGATE. 45 1 was informed, and indeed knew well, was distant five miles and a bittock, which may pass in a country where they are less lavish of their laud, for two or three more. Being somewhat afraid of the fatigue of walking so far, I inquired if a horse, or any sort of carriage, was to be had, and was answered in the negative. “ But,” said my cicerone, “ you may halt a blink till next morning at the Treddles Arms, a very decent house, scarce a mile off.” “ A new house, I suppose 9” replied I. “ Na, it’s a new public, bur it’s an auld house ; it was aye the Leddy’s jointure-house in the Croftangry-folk’s time ; but Mr. Treddles has fitted it up for the conven- ience of the country. Poor man, he was a public-spirited man when he had the means.” “ Duntarkin a public house !” I exclaimed. “ Ay 9” said the fellow, surprised at my naming the place by its former title, “ ye’ll hae been in this country before, I’m thinking 9” “ Long since,” 1 replied — “ And there is good accom- modation at the wbat-ii’ye-call-’em arms, and a civil landlord This I said by way of saying something, for the man stared very hard at me. “ Very decent accommodation. Ye’ll no be for fash- ing wi’ wine, I’m thinking, and there’s walth o’ porter, ale, and a drap gude whisky — (in an under tone) Fairn- tosh, if you can get on the lee-side of the gudewife — for there is nae gudeman — They ca’ her Christie Steele.” I almost started at the sound. Christie Steele ! Christie Steele was my mother’s body servant, her very right hand, and, between ourselves, something like a viceroy over her. I recollected her perfectly ; and though she had, in former times, been no favourite of mine, her name now sounded in my ear like that of a friend, and w r as the first word I had heard somewhat in unison with the associa- tions around me. I sallied from Castle-Treddles, deter- mined to make the best of my way to Duntarkin, and my cicerone hung by me for a little way, giving loose to his love of talking ; an opportunity which, situated as he was, 46 chronicles of the seneschal of a deserted castle, was not likely to occur frequently. “ Some folk think Mr. Treddles might as weel have put my wife as Christie Steele into the Treddles Arms, for Christie had been aye in service, and never in the public line, and so it’s like she is ganging back in the world, as 1 hear — now, my wife had keepit a victualling office.” “ That would have been an advantage, certainly.” “ But I am no sure that I wad ha’ looten Eppie take it, if they had put it in her offer.” “ That’s a different consideration.” “ Ony way, I wadna ha’ liked to have offended Mr. Treddles ; he was a wee toustie when you rubbed him again the hair — but a kind, weel-meaning man.” I wanted to get rid of this species of chat, and finding myself near the entrance of a footpath which made a short cut to Duntarkin, I put half-a-crown into my guide’s hand, bade him good^evening, and plunged into the woods. “ Hout, sir — fie, sir — no from the like of you — stay, sir, ye wunna find the way that gate — Odd’s mercy, he maun ken the gate as weel as I do mysell — weel, I wad like to ken wha the chield is.” Such were the last words of my guide’s drowsy, unin- teresting tone of voice ; and glad to be rid of him, I strode out stoutly, in despite of large stones, briers, and bad steps , which abounded in the road I had chosen. In the interim, I tried as much as I could, with verses from Horace and Prior, and all who have lauded the mixture of literary with rural life, to call back the visions of last night and this morning, imagining myself settled in some detached farm of the estate of Glentanner, Which sloping 1 hills around inclose — Where many a birch and brown oak grows ; when I should have a cottage with a small library, a small cellar, a spare bed for a friend, and live more happy and more honoured than when I had the whole barony. But the sight of Castle-Treddles had disturbed all my own THE CANONGATE. 47 castles in the air. The realities of the matter, like a stone plashed into a limpid fountain, had destroyed the reflection of the objects around, which, till this act of violence, lay slumbering on the crystal surface, and I tried in vain to re-establish the picture which had been so rude- ly broken. Well, then, 1 would try it another way ; [ would try to get Christie Steele out of her public , since she was not thriving in it, and she who had been my mother’s governante should be mine. I knew all her faults, and I told her history over to myself. She was a grand-daughter, I believe, at least some relative, of the famous Covenanter of the name, whom Dean Swift’s friend, Captain Crichton, shot on his own staircase in the times of the persecutions, and had per- haps derived from her native stock much both of its good and evil properties. No one could say of her that she was the life and spirit of the family, though, in my moth- er’s time, she directed all family affairs ; her look was austere and gloomy, and when she was not displeased with you, you could only find it out by her silence. If there was cause for complaint, real or imaginary, Christie was loud enough. She loved my mother with the de- voted attachment of a younger sister, but she was as jeal- ous of her favour to any one else as if she had been the aged husband of a coquettish wife, and as severe in her reprehensions as an abbess over her nuns. The com- mand which she exercised over her, was that, I fear, of a strong and determined over a feeble and more nervous disposition ; and though it was used with rigour, yet, to the best of Christie Steele’s belief, she was urging her mistress to her best and most becoming course, and would have died rather than have recommended any other. The attachment of this woman was limited to the family of Croftangry, for she had few relations ; and a dissolute cousin, whom late in life she had taken as a husband, had long left her a widow. To me she had ever a strong dislike. Even from my early childhood, she was jealous, strange as it may seem, of my interest in my mother’s affections ; she saw my 48 CHRONICLES OF foibles and vices with abhorrence, and without a grain of allowance ; nor did she pardon the weakness of maternal affection, even when, by the death of two brothers, I came to be the only child of a widowed parent. At the time my disorderly conduct induced my mother to leave Glentanner, and retreat to her jointure-house, 1 always blamed Christie Steele for having influenced her resent- ment, and prevented her from listening to my vows of amendment, which at times were real and serious, and might, perhaps, have accelerated that change of disposi- tion which has since, I trust, taken place. But Christie regarded me as altogether a doomed and predestinated child of perdition, who was sure to hold on my course, and drag downwards whosoever might attempt to afford me support. Still, though I knew such had been Christie’s preju- dices against me in other days, yet I thought enough of time had since passed away to destroy all of them. I knew, that when, through the disorder of my affairs, my mother underwent some temporary inconvenience about money matters, Christie, as a thing of course, stood in the gap, and having sold a small inheritance which had descended to her, brought the purchase-money to her mistress, with a sense of devotion as deep as that which inspired the Christians of the first age, when they sold all they had, and followed the apostles of the church. I therefore thought that we might, in old Scottish phrase, “ let byganes be byganes,” and begin upon a new ac- count. Vet I resolved, like a skilful general to reconnoi- tre a little before laying down any precise scheme of proceeding, and in the interim I determined to preserve my incognito. THE CANONGATE. 49 CHAPTER IV. Alas, how changed from what it once had been . ; Twas now degraded to a common inn. Gay. Half an hour’s brisk walking, or thereabouts, placed me in front of Duntarkin, which had also, I found, under- gone considerable alterations, though it had not been al- together demolished like the principal mansion. An inn-yard extended before the door of the decent little jointure-house, even amidst the remnants of the holly hedges which had screened the lady’s garden. Then a broad, raw-looking, new-made road, intruded itself up the little glen, instead of the old horseway, so seldom used that it was almost entirely covered with grass. It is a great enormity of which gentlemen trustees on the high- ways are sometimes guilty, in adopting the breadth neces- sary for an avenue to the metropolis, where all that is required is an access to some sequestered and unpopu- lous district. I do not say anything of the expense ; that the trustees and their constituents may settle as they please. But the destruction of sylvan beauty is great, when the breadth of the road is more than proportioned to the vale through which it runs, and lowers of course the consequence of any objects of wood or water, or broken and varied ground, which might otherwise attract notice, and give pleasure. A bubbling runnel by the side of one of those modern Appian or Flaminian highways, is but like a kennel, — the little hill is diminished to a hil- lock, — the romantic hillock to a mole-hill, almost too small for sight. Such an enormity, however, had destroyed the quiet loneliness of Duntarkin, and intruded its breadth of dust and gravel, and its associations of po-chays and mail- 5 VOL. II, 50 CHRONICLES OF coaches, upon one of the most sequestered spots in the Middle Ward of Clydesdale. The house was old and dilapidated, and looked sorry for itself, as if sensible of a derogation ; but the sign was strong and new, and brightly painted, displaying a heraldic shield, three shut- tles in a field diapre, a web partly unfolded for crest, and two stout giants for supporters, each one holding a weaver’s beam proper. To have displayed this monstrous em- blem on the front of the house might have hazarded bringing down the wall, but for certain would have block- ed up one or two windows. It was therefore established independent of the mansion, being displayed in an iron frame-work, and suspended upon two posts, with as much wood and iron about it as would have build ed a brig ; and there it hung, creaking, groaning, and screaming in every blast of wind, and frightening for five miles’ dis- tance, for aught I know, the nests of thrushes and linnets, the ancient denizens of the little glen. When I entered the place, I was received by Christie Steele herself, who seemed uncertain whether to drop me in the kitchen, or usher me into a separate apartment. As I called for tea, with something rather more substan- tial than bread and butter, and spoke of supping and sleeping, Christie at last inducted me into the room where she herself had been sitting, probably the only one which had a fire, though the month was October. This an- swered my plan ; and, as she was about to remove her spinning-wheel, I begged she would have the goodness to remain and make my tea, adding, that I liked the sound of the wheel, and desired not to disturb her housewife- thrift in the least. “ I dinna ken, sir,” — she replied in a dry reveche tone, which carried me back twenty years, “ I am nane of thae heartsome landleddies that can tell country cracks, and make themselves agreeable ; and I was ganging to pit on a fire for you in the Red room ; but if it is your will to stay here, he that pays the lawing maun choose the lodg- ing.” THE CANONGATE. 51 I endeavoured to engage her in conversation ; but though she answered with a kind oi stiff' civility, I could get her into no freedom of discourse, and she began to look at her wheel and at the door more than once, as if she meditated a retreat. I was obliged, therefore, to proceed to some special questions that might have interest for a person, whose ideas were probably of a very bound- ed description. I looked round the apartment, being the same in which I had last seen my poor mother. The author of the family history, formerly mentioned, had taken great credit to himself for the improvements he had made in this same jointure-house of Duntarkin, and how, upon his marriage, when his mother took possession of the same as her jointure-house, “ to his great charges and expenses he caused box the walls of the great parlour, (in which I was now sitting,) empannel the same, and plaster the roof, finishing the apartment with ane concave chimney, and decorating the same with pictures, and a barometer and thermometer.” And in particular, which his good moth- er used to say she prized above all the rest, he had caus- ed his own portraiture be limned over the mantel-piece by a skilful hand. And, in good faith, there he remained still, having much the visage which I was disposed to as- cribe to him on the evidence of his handwriting, — grim and austere, yet not without a cast of shrewdness and determination ; in armour, though he never wore it, I fancy ; one hand on an open book, and one resting on the hilt of his sword, though I dare say his head never ached with reading, nor his limbs with fencing. “ That picture is painted on the wood, madam,” said I. “ Ay, sir, or it’s like it would not have been left there ; — they took a’ they could.” “ Mr. Treddles’s creditors, you mean ?” said I. “ Na,” replied she, drily, “ the creditors of another family, that sweepit cleaner than this poor man’s, because I fancy there was less to gather.” “ An older family, perhaps, and probably more remem- bered and regretted than later possessors 9” 52 CHRONICLES OF Christie here settled herself in her seat, and pulled her wheel towards her. I had given her something interest- ing for her thoughts to dwell upon, and her wheel was a mechanical accompaniment on such occasions, the revo- lutions of which assisted her in the explanation of her ideas. “ Mair regretted — mair missed ? — I liked ane of the auld family very weel, but I winna say that for them a’. How should they be mair missed than the Treddles ? The cotton mill was such a thing for the country ! The mair bairns a cottar body had the better ; they would make their awn keep frae the time they were five years auld ; and a widow wi’ three or four bairns was a wealthy woman in the time of the Treddleses.” “ But the health of these poor children, my good friend — their education and religious instruction ” “ For health,” said Christie, looking gloomily at me, “ ye maun ken little of the warld, sir, if ye dinna ken that the health of the poor man’s body, as weel as his youth and his strength, are all at the command of the rich man’s purse. There never was a trade so unhealthy yet, but men would fight to get wark at it for tvva pennies a-day aboon the common wage. But the bairns were reasona- bly weel cared for in the way of air and exercise, and a very responsible youth heard them their carritch, and gied them lessons in Reediemadeasy.* Now, what did they ever get before? x Maybe on a winter day they wad be called out to beat the wood for cocks or siclike, and then the starving weans would maybe get a bite of broken bread, and maybe no, just as the butler was in humour — that was a’ they got.” “ They were not, then, a very kind family to the poor, these old possessors?” said I, somewhat bitterly ; for I had expected to hear my ancestors’ praises recorded, though I certainly despaired of being regaled with my own. “ They werena ill to them, sir, and that is aye some- * 11 Reading - made Easy,” usually so pronounced in Scotland, THE CANONGATE. 53 thing. They were just decent bien bodies ; — ony pooi creature that had face to beg got an awraous and wel- come ; they that were shamefaced gaed by, and twice as welcome. But they keepit an honest walk before God and man, the Croftangrys, and, as I said before, if they did little good, they did as little ill. They lifted their rents and spent them, called in their kain and eat them ; gaed to the kirk of a Sunday, bowed civilly if folk took aff their bannets as they gaed by, and lookit as black as sin at them that keepit them on.” “ These are their arms that you have on the sign ?” “ What ! on the painted board that is skirling and groaning at the door ? — Na, these are Mr. Treddles’s arms — though they look as like legs as arms — ill pleased I was at the fule thing, that cost as muckle as would hae repaired the house from the wa’ stane to the rigging-tree. But if I am to bide here, I’ll hae the decent board wi’ the punch bowl back again.” “ Is there a doubt of your staying here, Mrs. Steele !” “ Dinna Mistress me,” said the cross old woman, whose fingers were now plying their thrift in a manner which indicated nervous irrilat’on — “ there was nae luck in the laud since Luckie turned Mistress, and Mistress my Leddy ; and as for staying here, if it concerns you to ken, I may stay if I can pay a hundred pund sterling for the lease, and I may flit if 1 canna ; and so gude e’en to you, Christie,” — and round went the wheel with much activity. “ And you like the trade of keeping a public house ?” “ I can scarce say that,” she replied. “ But worthy Mr. Prendergast is clear of its lawfulness, and I hae got- ten used to it, and made a decent living, though I never make out a fause reckoning, or give ony ane the means to disorder reason in my house.” “ Indeed,” said I, “ in that case, there is no wonder you have not made up the hundred pounds to purchase the lease.” “ How do you ken,” said she sharply, “ that I might 5* VOL, i. 54 CHRONICLES OF not have had a hundred punds of my ain fee 9 If I have it not, I am sure it is my ain faut ; and I vvunna ca’ it faut neither, for it gaed to her wha was weel entitled to a’ my service.” Again she pulled stoutly at the flax, and the wheel went smartly round. “ This old gentleman,” said J, fixing my eye on the painted pannel, “ seems to have had his arms painted as well as Mr. Treddles — that is, if that painting in the cor- ner be a scutcheon.” “ Ay, ay — cushion, just sae, they maun a 5 hae their cushions ; there’s sma’ gentry without that ; and so the arms, as they ca’ them, of the house of Glentanner, may be seen on an auld stane in the west end of the house. But to do them justice, they didna propale sae muckle about them as poor Mr. Treddles did ; — it’s like they were better used to them.” “ Very likely. — Are there any of the old family in life, goodwife 9” “ No,” she replied ; then added, after a moment’s hesitation — “ not that I know of,” — and the wheel, which had intermitted, began again to revolve. “ Gone abroad, perhaps 9” I suggested. She now looked up and faced me — “ No, sir. There were three sons of the last laird of Glentanner, as he was then called ; John and William were hopeful young gen- tlemen, but they died early — one of a decline, brought on by the mizzles, the other lost his life in a fever. It would hae been lucky for mony ane that Chrystal had gane the same gate.” u Oh — he must have been the young spendthrift that sold the property 9 Well, but you should not have such an ill-will against him : remember necessity has no law ; and then, goodwife, he was not more culpable than Mr. Treddles, whom you are so sorry for.” “ I wish I could think sae, sir, for his mother’s sake ; but Mr. Treddles was in trade, and though he had no preceese right to do so, yet there was some warrant for a man being expensive that imagined he was making a mint of money. But this unhappy lad devoured his patrimo- THE CANONGATK. 55 ny, when he kenned that he was living like a ratten in a Dunlap cheese, and diminishing his means at a’ hands — I canna bide to think on’t.” With this she broke out into a snatch of a ballad ; but little of mirth was there either in the tone or the expression — “ For he did spend, and make an end Of gear that his forefathers wan : Of land and ware he made him bare, So speak nae mair of the auld gudeman.” “ Come, dame,” said I, “ it is a long lane that has no turning. I will not keep from you that I have heard something of this poor fellow, Cbrystal Croftangry. He has sown his wild oats, as they say, and has settled into a steady respectable man.” “ And wha tell’d ye that tidings'?” said she, looking sharply at me. “ Not perhaps the best judge in the world of his char- acter, for it was himself, dame.” “ And if he tell’d you truth, it was a virtue he did not aye usje to practise,” said Christie. “ The devil !” said I, considerably nettled ; “ all the world held him to be a man of honour.” “ Ay, ay ! he would hae shot ony body wi’ his pistofe and his guns, that had evened him to be a liar. But if he promised to pay an honest tradesman the next term- day, did he keep his word then And if he promised a poor silly lass to make gude her shame, did he speak truth then ? And what is that, but being a liar, and a black-hearted deceitful liar to boot ?” My indignation was rising, but I strove to suppress it ; indeed, 1 should only have afforded my tormentor a tri- umph by an angry reply. I partly suspected she began to recognize me ; yet she testified so little emotion, that I could not think my suspicion well founded. I went on, therefore, to say, in a tone as indifferent as I could com- mand, “ Well, goodwife, I see you will believe no good of this Cbrystal of yours, till he comes back and buys a good farm an the estate, and makes you his housekeeper.” 56 CHRONICLES OF The old woman dropped her thread, folded her hands, as she looked up to heaven with a face of apprehension. “ The Lord,” she exclaimed, “ forbid ! the Lord in his mercy forbid ! Oh, sir ! if you really know this unlucky man, persuade him to settle where folk ken the good that you say he has come to, and dinna ken the evil of his former days. He used to be proud enough — O dinna let him come here, even for bis own sake. — He used ance to have some pride.” Here she once more drew the wheel close to her, and began to pull at the flax with both hands — “ Dinna let him come here, to be looked down upon by ony that may be left of his auld reiving companions, and to see the decent folk that he looked over his nose at look over their noses at him, baith at kirk and market. Dinna let him come to his ain country to be made a tale about when ony neighbour points him out to another, and tells what he is, and what he was, and how he wrecked a dainty estate, and brought harlots to the door-cheek of his father’s house, till he made it nae residence for his mother ; and how it had been foretauld by a servant of his ain house, that he was a ne’er-do-weel, and a child of perdition, and how her words were made good, and ” “ Stop there, goodwife, if you please,” said I : “ you have said as much as I can well remember, and more than it may be safe to repeat. ] can use a great deal of free- dom with the gentleman we speak of ; but 1 think were any other person to carry him half of your message, I would scarce insure his personal safety. And now, as I see the night is settled to be a fine one, I will walk on to , where I must meet a coach to-morrow, as it passes to Edinburgh.” So saying, I paid my moderate reckoning, and took my leave, without being able to discover whether the pre- judiced and hard-hearted old woman did, or did not, sus- pect the identity of her guest, with the Chrystal Croftan-* gry against whom she harboured so much dislike. The night was fine and frosty, though, when 1 pretend- ed to see what its character was, it might have rained like TIIE CANONGATK. 57 the deluge. I only made the excuse to escape from old Christie Steele. The horses which run races in the Corso at Rome without any riders, in order to stimulate their exertion, carry each his own spurs, namely, small balls of steel, with sharp projecting spikes, which are at- tached to loose straps of leather, and, flying about in the violence of the agitation, keep the horse to bis speed by pricking him as they strike against bis flanks. The old woman’s reproaches had the same effect on me, and urg- ed me to a rapid pace, as if it bad been possible to escape from my own recollections. In the best days of my life, when I won one or two bard walking matches, I doubt if I ever walked so fast as I did betwixt the Treddles Arms and the borough town for which 1 was bound. Though the night was cold, I was warm enough by the time I got to my inn ; and it required a refreshing draught of porter, with half an hour’s repose, ere I could determine to give no farther thought to Christie and her opinions, than those of any other vulgar prejudiced old woman. I resolved at last to treat the thing en bagatelle , and, calling for writing materials, I folded up a cheque for £.100, with these lines on the envelope : Chrystal, the ne’er-do-weel, Child destined to the Deil, Sends this to Christie Steele. And I was so much pleased with this new mode of view- ing the subject, that I regretted the lateness of the hour prevented my finding a person to carry the letter express to its destination. But with the morning cool reflection came. I considered that the money, and probably more, was actually due by me on my mother’s account to Christie, who had lent it in a moment of great necessity, and that the returning it in a light or ludicrous manner was not unlikely to prevent so touchy and punctilious a person from accepting a debt which was most justly her due, and which it became me particularly to see satisfied. 58 CHRONICLES OF Sacrificing then my triad with little regret, (for it looked better by candle-light and through the medium of a pot of porter, than it did by daylight, and with bohea for a menstruum,) 1 determined to employ Mr. Fairscribe’s mediation in buying up the lease of the little inn, and conferring it upon Christie in the way which should make it most acceptable to her feelings. It is only necessary to add, that my plan succeeded, and that Widow Steele even yet keeps the Treddles Arms. Do not say, there- fore, that I have been disingenuous with you, reader; since, i( I have not told all the ill of myself I might have done, 1 have indicated to you a person able and willing to supply the blank, by relating all my delinquencies, as well as my misfortunes. In the meantime, 1 totally abandoned the idea of re- deeming any part of my paternal property, and resolved to take Christie Steele’s advice, as young Norval does Glenalvon’s, • although it sounded harshly.” CHAPTER V. — If you will know my house, ,r Tis at the tuft of olives here hard-by. As You Like It. Ey a revolution of humour which I am unable to ac- count for, I changed my mind entirely on my plans of life, in consequence of the disappointment, the history of which fills the last chapter. 1 began to discover that the country would not at all suit me ; for I had relinquished field-sports, and felt no inclination whatever to farming, the ordinary vocation of country gentlemen ; besides that 1 had no talent for assisting either candidate in case of an expected election, and saw no amusement in the duties of a road trustee, a commissioner of supply, or even in THE CANONGATE. 59 the magisterial functions of the bench. I had begun to take some taste for reading ; and a domiciliation in the country must remove me from the use of books, except- ing the small subscription library, in which the very book which you want is uniformly sure to be engaged. I resolved, therefore, to make the Scottish metropolis my regular resting-place, reserving to myself to take oc- casionally those excursions, which, spite of all I have said against mail-coaches, Mr. Piper has rendered so easy. Friend of our life and of our leisure, he secures by de- spatch against loss of time, and by the best of coaches, cattle, and steadiest of drivers, against hazard of limb, and wafts us, as well as our letters, from Edinburgh to Cape Wrath in the penning of a paragraph. When my mind was quite made up to make Auld Reekie my head-quarters, reserving the privilege of ex- ploring in all directions, I began to explore in good ear- nest for the purpose of discovering a suitable habitation. “ And whare trew ye I gaed V 9 as Sir Pertinax says. Not to George’s square — nor to Charlotte Square — nor to the old New Town — nor to the New Town — nor to the Calton Hill ; I went to the Canongate, and to the very portion of the Canongate in which 1 had formerly been immured, like the errant knight, prisoner in some enchanted castle, where spells have made the ambient air impervious to the unhappy captive, although the or- gans of sight encountered no obstacle to his free passage. Why I should have thought of pitching my tent here I cannot tell. Perhaps it was to enjoy the pleasures of freedom, where ] had so long endured the bitterness of restraint ; on the principle of the officer, who, after he had retired from the army, ordered his servant to continue to call him at the hour of parade, simply that he might have the pleasure of saying — “D — n the parade,” and turning to the other side to enjoy his slumbers. Or per- haps 1 expected to find in the vicinity some little old-fash- ioned house, having somewhat of the rus in urbe , which I was ambitious of enjoying. Enough, 1 went, as afore- said, to the Canongate. 60 CHRONICLES OF I stood'by the kennel, of which I have formerly spoken, and, my mind being at ease, my bodily organs were more delicate. I was more sensible than heretofore, that, like the trade of Pompey in Measure for Measure — it did in some sort pah — an ounce of civet, good apothecary. — Turning from thence, my steps naturally directed them- selves to my own humble apartment, where my little High- land landlady, as dapper and as tight as ever, (for old women wear a hundred times better than the hard-wrought seniors of the masculine sex,) stood at the door, teedling to herself a Highland song as she shook a table napkin over the fore-stair, and then proceeded to fold it up neatly for future service. 44 How do you, Janet 9” 44 Thank ye, good sir,” answered my old friend, with- out looking at me ; 64 but ye might as weel say Mrs. Mac- Evoy, for she is na a’body’s Shanet — umph.” 44 You must be my Janet, though, for all that — have you forgot me 9 — Do you not remember Chrystal Croft- angry 9” The light, kind-hearted creature threw her napkin into the open door, skipped down the stair like a fairy, three steps at once, seized me by the hands, — both hands, — jumped up, and actually kissed me. I was a little asham- ed ; but what swain, of somewhere inclining to sixty, could resist the advances of a fair contemporary 9* So we allowed the full degree of kindness to the meeting, — honi soit qui mol y pensc, — and then Janet entered instant- ly upon business. 44 An’ ye’ll gae in, man, and see your auld lodgings, nae doubt, and Shanet will pay ye the fif- teen shillings of change that ye ran away without, and without bidding Shanet good day. But never mind,” (nodding good-humouredly,) 44 Shanet saw you were car- ried for the time.” By this time we were in my old quarters, and Janet, with her bottle of cordial in one hand and the glass in the other, had forced on me a dram of usquebaugh, distilled with saffron and other herbs, after some old-fashioned Highland receipt. Then was unfolded, out of many a THE CANONGATE. 61 little scrap of paper, the reserved sum of fifteen shillings, which Janet had treasured for twenty years and upwards. “ Here they are,” she said, in honest triumph, “ just the same I was holding out to ye when ye ran as if ye had been fey. Shanet has had siller, and Shanet has wanted siller, mony a time since that — and the gauger has come, and the factor has come, and the butcher and baker — Cot bless us — just like to tear poor auld Shanet to pieces ; but she took good care of Mr. Croftangry’s fifteen shil- lings.” “ But what if I had never come back, Janet 9” “ Och, if Shanet had heard you were dead, she would hae gien it to the poor of the chapel, to pray for Mr. Croftangry,” said Janet, crossing herself, for she was a Catholic ; — “ you maybe do not think it would do you cood, but the blessing of the poor can never do no harm.” I agreed heartily in Janet’s conclusion ; and, as to have desired her to consider the hoard as her own property, would have been an indelicate return to her for the up- rightness of her conduct, I requested her to dispose of it as she had proposed to do in the event of my death, that is, if she knew any poor people of merit to whom it might be useful. “ Ower mony of them,” raising the corner of her check- ed apron to her eyes, “ e’en ower mony of them, Mr. Croftangry. — Och, ay — there is the puir Highland crea- tures frae Glenshee, that cam down for the harvest, and are lying wi’ the fever — five shillings to them, and half-a- crown to Bessie MacEvoy, whose coodman, puir creature, died of the frost, being a shairman, for a’ the whisky he could drink to keep it out o’ his stamoch — and ” But she suddenly interrupted the bead-roll of her pro- posed charities, and assuming a very sage look, and prim- ming up her little chattering mouth, she went on in a different tone — “ But, och, Mr. Croftangry, bethink ye whether ye will not need a’ this siller yoursell, and maybe look back and think lang for ha’en kiven it away, whilk is a creat sin to forthink a wark o’ charity, and also is un- 6 VOL. 1. 62 CHRONICLES OF lucky, and moreover is not the thought of a shentleman’s son like yoursell, dear. And I say this, that ye may think a bit, for your mother’s son kens that ye are no so care- ful as you should be of the gear, and I hae tauld ye of it before, jewel.” 1 assured her I could easily spare the money, without risk of future repentance ; and she went on to infer, that, in such a case, 46 Mr. Croftangry had grown a rich man in foreign parts, and was free of his troubles with messengers and sheriff-officers, and siclike scum of the earth, and Shanet MacEvoy’s mother’s daughter be a blithe woman to hear it. Put if Mr. Croftangry was in trouble, there was his room, and his ped, and Shanet to wait on him, and tak payment when it was quite con- venient.” 1 explained to Janet my situation, in which she express- ed unqualified delight. 1 then proceeded to inquire into her own circumstances, and, though she spoke cheerfully and contentedly, I could see they were precarious. I had paid more than was due ; other lodgers fell into an oppo- site error, and forgot to pay Janet at all. Then, Janet being ignorant of all indirect modes of screwing money out of her lodgers, others in the same line of life, who were sharper than the poor simple Highland woman, were enabled to let their apartments cheaper in appearance, though the inmates usually found them twice as dear in the long-run. As I had already destined my old landlady to be my housekeeper and governante, knowing her honesty, good- nature, and, although a Scotchwoman, her cleanliness and excellent temper, (saving the short and hasty expressions of anger which Highlanders call a fuff,) I now proposed the plan to her in such a way as was likely to make it most acceptable. Very acceptable as the proposal was, as 1 could plainly see, Janet, however, took a day to con- sider upon it; and her reflections against our next meet- ing had suggested only one objection, which was singular enough. TIili CANONGATE. “ My honour,” so she now termed me, “ would biding in some fine street a pout the town ; now Shanet wad ill like to live in a place where polish, and sheriffs, and bailiffs, and sic thieves and trash of the world, could tak puir shentlemen by the throat, just because they want- ed a vvheen dollars in the sporran. She had lived in the bonny glen of Tomanthoulick — Cot, an ony ol the ver- mint had come there, her father would hae wared a shot on them, and he could hit a buck within as mony meas- ured yards as e’er a man of his clan. And the place here was so quiet frae them, they durst na put their nose ower the gutter. Shanet ofred nobody a bodle, put she couldna bide to see honest folk and pretty shentlemen forced away to prison whether they would or no ; and then if Shanet was to lay her tangs ower ane of the rag- amuffins’ heads, it would be, maybe, that the law would gi’ed a hard name.” One thing I have learned in life, — never to speak sense when nonsense will answer the purposeras well. I should have had great difficulty to convince this practical and dis- interested admirer and vindicator of liberty, that arrests seldom or never were to be seen in the streets of Edin- burgh, and to satisfy her of their justice and necessity, would have been as difficult as to convert her to the Pro- testant faith. 1 therefore assured her my intention, if I could get a suitable habitation, was to remain in the quarter where she at present dwelt. Janet gave three skips on the floor, and uttered as many short shrill yells of joy ; yet doubt almost instantly returned, and she insisted on knowing what possible reason I could have for making my residence where few lived, save those whose misfortunes drove them thither. It occurred to me to answer her by recounting the legend of the rise of my family, and of our deriving our name from a particular place near Holy- rood Palace. This, which would have appeared to most people a very absurd reason for choosing a residence, was entirely satisfactory to Janet MacEvoy. “ Och, nae doubt ! if it was the land of her fathers, there was nae mair to be said. Put it was queer that her CHKONICLES OF estate should just lie at the town tail, and covered with houses where the King’s cows, Cot bless them hide and horn, used to craze upon. Jt was strange changes.” — She mused a little, and then added, “ Put it is some- thing better wi’ Croftangry when the changes is frae the field to the habited place, and not from the place of hab- itation to the desert; for Sbanet, her nainsell, kent a glen where there w r ere men as weel as there maybe in Croft- angry, and if there werena altogether sae mony of them, they were as good men in their tartan as the others in their broadcloth. And there were houses too, and if they w r ere not biggit with stane and lime, and lofted like the houses at Croftangry, yet they served the purpose of them that lived there ; and mony a braw bonnet, and mony a silk snood, and comely white curch, would come out to gang to kirk or chapel on the Lord’s day, and little bairns toddling after ; and now, — Och, Och, Ohellany, Ohonari ! the glen is desolate, and the braw snoods and bonnets are gane, and the Saxon’s house stands dull and lonely, like the single bare-breasted rock that the falcon builds on — - the falcon that drives the heath-bird frae the glen.” Janet, like many Highlanders, was full of imagination ; and, when melancholy themes came upon her, expressed herself almost poetically, owing to the genius of the Celtic language in which she thought, and in which, doubtless, she would have spoken, had 1 understood Gaelic. In two minutes the shade of gloom and regret had passed from her good-humoured features, and she was again the little busy, prating, important old woman, undisputed owner of one fiat of a small tenement in the Abbey-yard, and about to be promoted to be housekeeper to an elderly bachelor gentleman, Chrystal Croftangry, Esq. It was not long before Janet’s local researches found out exactly the sort of place I wanted, and there we set- tled. Janet was afraid I would not be satisfied, because it is not exactly part of Croftangry ; but I stopped her doubts, by assuring her it had been part and pendicle thereof in my forefathers’ time, which passed very vvelk THE CANONGATE. 65 I do not intend to possess any one with an exact know- ledge of my lodging ; though, as Bobadil says, “ I care not who knows it, since the cabin is convenient.” But I may state in general, that it is a house “ within itself,” or according to a newer phraseology in advertisements, self- contained , has a garden of near half an acre, and a patch of ground with trees in front. It boasts five rooms and servants’ apartments — looks in front upon the palace, and from behind towards the hill and crags of the King’s Park. Fortunately the place had a name, which, with a little im- provement, served to countenance the legend which I had imposed on Janet, and would not perhaps have been sorry if L had been able to impose on myself. It was called Littlecroft ; we have dubbed it Little Croftangry, and the men of letters belonging to the Post Office have sanction- ed the change, and deliver letters so addressed. My establishment consists of Janet, an under maid- servant, and a Highland wench for Janet to exercise her Gaelic upon, with a handy lad who can lay the cloth, and take care besides of a pony, on which I find my way. to Portobello sands, especially when the cavalry have a drill ; for, like an old fool as I am, I have not altogether become indifferent to the tramp of horses and the flash of weapons, of which, though no professional soldier, it has been my fate to see something in my youth. For wet mornings, I have my book — is it fine weather, I visit or I wander on the Crags as the humour dictates. My dinner is indeed solitary, yet not quite so neither ; for though Andrew waits, Janet, or, — as she is to all the world but her master, and certain old Highland gossips, — * Mrs. MacEvoy, attends, bustles about, and desires to see everything is in first-rate order, and to tell me, Cot pless us, the wonderful news of the Palace for the day. When the cloth is removed, and I light rny cigar, and begin to husband a pint of port, or a glass of old whisky and water, it is the rule of the house that Janet takes a chair at some distance, and nods or works her stocking, as she may be disposed ; ready to speak, if 1 am in the talking humour, 6* VOL. i. 66 CHItONICLKS OF and sitting quiet as a mouse if I am rather inclined to study a book or die newspaper. At six precisely she makes my tea, and leaves me to drink it ; and then occurs an interval of time which most old bachelors find heavy on their hands. The theatre is a good occasional resource, but it is distant, and so are one or two public societies to which I belong ; besides, these evening walks are all in- compatible with the elbow-chair feeling, which desires some employment that may divert the mind without fa- tiguing the body. Under the influence of these impressions, I have some- times thought of this literary undertaking. I must have been the Bonassus himself to have mistaken myself for a genius, yet I have leisure and reflectibns like my neigh- bours. I am a borderer also between two generations, and can point out more perhaps than others of those fading traces of antiquity which are daily vanishing ; and I know many a modern instance and many an old tradi- tion, and therefore I ask — • What ails me, I may not, as well as they, Rake up some thread-hare tales, that mouldering 1 lay In ehimney corners, wont by Christinas fires To read and rock to sleep our ancient sires ? No man his threshold better knows, than I Brute’s first arrival and first victory, Saint George’s sorrel and his cross of blood, Arthur’s round board and Caledonian wood. No shop is so easily set up as an antiquary’s. Like those of the lowest order of pawnbrokers, a commodity of rusty iron, a bag or two of hob-nails, a few odd shoe- buckles, cashiered kail-pots, and fire-irons declared inca- pable of service, are quite sufficient to set him up. If he add a sheaf or two of penny ballads and broadsides, he is a great man— -an extensive trader. And then — like the pawnbrokers aforesaid, if the author understands a little legerdemain, he may, by dint of a little picking and stealing, make the inside of his shop a great deal richer than the out, and be able to ^hovv you things which cause THE CANONGATE. 67 those who do not understand the antiquarian trick of clean conveyance, to wonder how the devil he came by them. It may be said, that antiquarian articles interest but few customers, and that we may bawl ourselves as rusty as the wares we deal in without any one asking the price of our merchandize. But I do not rest my hopes upon this department of my labours only. I propose also to have a corresponding shop for Sentiment, and Dialogues, and Disquisition, which may captivate the fancy of those who have no relish, as the established phrase goes, for pure antiquity ; — a sort of green-grocer’s stall erected in front of my ironmongery wares, garlanding the rusty memorials of ancient times with cresses, cabbages, leeks, and water purpy. As I have some idea that I am writing too well to be understood, I humble myself to ordinary language, and aver, with becoming modesty, that I do think myself ca- pable of sustaining a publication of a miscellaneous nature, as like to the Spectator, or the Guardian, the Mirror, or the Lounger, as my poor abilities may be able to accom- plish. Not that I have any purpose of imitating Johnson, whose general learning and power of expression I do not deny, but many of whose Ramblers are little better than a sort of pageant, where trite and obvious maxims are made to swagger in lofty and mystic language, and get some credit only because they are not easily understood. There are some of the great moralist’s papers which I cannot peruse without thinking on a second-rate masquer- ade, where the best-known and least-esteemed characters in town march in as heroes, and sultans, and so forth, and by dint of tawdry dresses, get some consideration until they are found out. — It is not, however, prudent to com- mence with throwing stones, just wdien I am striking out windows of my own. I think even the local situation of Little Croftangry may be considered as favourable to my undertaking. A nobler contrast there can hardly exist than that of the huge city, dark wit!) the smoke of ages, and groaning with the various sounds of active industry or idle revel, and the 68 CHRONICLES OF lofty and craggy hill, silent and solitary as the grave ; one exhibiting the full tide of existence, pressing and precip- itating itself forward with the force of an inundation , the other resembling some time-worn anchorite, whose life passed as silent and unobserved as the slender rill which escapes unheard, and scarce seen, from the fountain of his patron-saint. The city resembles the busy temple, where the modern Comus and Mammon hold their court, and thousands sacrifice ease, independence, and virtue itself, at their shrine ; the misty and lonely mountain seems as a throne to the majestic but terrible Genius of feudal times, when he dispensed coronets and domains to those who had heads to devise, and arms to execute, bold en- terprizes. 3 have, as it were, the two extremities of the moral world at my threshold. From the front door, a few min- utes’ walk brings me into the heart of a wealthy and pop- ulous city ; as many paces from my opposite entrance, places me in a solitude as complete as Zimmermann could have desired. Surely with such aids to my imagination, I may write better than if 3 were in a lodging in the New Town, or a garret in the old. As the Spaniard says, “ y'iamos-Caracco /” 3 have not chosen to publish periodically, my reason for which was twofold. 3n the first place, 1 don’t like to be hurried, and have had enough of duns in an early part of my life, to make me reluctant to hear of, or see one, even in the less awful shape of a printer’s devil. But, secondly, a periodical paper is not easily extended in cir- culation beyond the quarter in which it is published. This work, if published in fugitive numbers, would scarce, without a high pressure on the part of the bookseller, be' raised above the Netherbow, and never could be expected to ascend to the level of Princess Street. Now I am ambitious that my compositions, though having their origin in this Valley of Holyrood, should not only be extended into those exalted regions 3 have mentioned, but also that that they should cross the Forth, astonish the long town of Kirkaldy, enchant the skippers and coalliers of the THE CANONGATE. 69 East of Fife, venture even into the classic arcades of St. Andrews, and travel as much farther to the north as the breath of applause will carry their sails. As for a south- ward direction, it is not to be hoped for in my fondest dreams. I am informed that Scotch literature, like Scotch whisky, will be presently laid under a prohibitory duty. — But enough of this. If any reader is dull enough not to comprehend the advantages which, in point of circulation, a compact book has over a collection of fugitive numbers, let him try the range of a gun loaded with hail-shot, against that of the same piece charged with an equal weight of lead consolidated in a single bullet. Besides, it was of less consequence that I should have published periodically, since I did not mean to solicit or accept of the contributions of friends, or the criticisms of those who may be less kindly disposed. Notwithstand- ing the excellent examples which might be quoted, I will establish no begging-box, either under the name of a lion’s-head or an ass’s. What is good or ill shall be mine own, or the contribution of friends to whom I may have private access. Many of my voluntary assistants might be cleverer than myself, and then I should have a brilliant article appear among my chiller. effusions, like a patch of lace on a Scotch cloak of Galashiels grey. Some might be worse, and then I must reject them, to the injury of the feelings of the writer, or else insert them, to make my own darkness yet more opaque and palpable. “ Let every herring,” says our old-fashioned proverb, “ hang by his own head.” One person, however, I may distinguish, as she is now no more, who, living to the utmost term of human life, honoured me with a great share of her friendship, as in- deed we were blood-relatives in the Scottish sense — Heaven knows how many degrees removed — and friends in the sense of Old England. I mean the late excellent and regretted Mrs. Bethune Baliol. But as I design this admirable picture of the olden time for a principle char- acter in my work, I will only say here, that she knew and approved of my present purpose ; and though she declin- 70 CHRONICLES OF ed to contribute to it while she lived, from a sense of dig- nified retirement, which she thought became her age, sex, and condition in life, she left me some materials for car- rying on my proposed work, which I coveted when I heard her detail them in conversation, and which now, when I have their substance in her own handwriting, 1 ac- count far more valuable than anything I have myself to offer. I hope the mentioning her name in conjunction with my own, will give no offence to any of her numer- ous friends, as it was her own express pleasure that I should employ the manuscripts, which she did me the honour to bequeath me, in the manner in which I have now used them. It must be added, however, that in most cases 1 have disguised names, and in some have added shading and colouring to bring out the narrative. Many of my materials, besides these, are derived from friends, living or dead. In some cases they may be in- accurate, and in such I shall be happy to receive, from sufficient authority, the correction of the errors which must creep into traditional documents. The object of the whole publication is, to throw some light on the manners of Scotland as they were, and to contrast them, occasion- ally, with such as now are fashionable in the same country. For my own serious opinion, it is in favour of the present age in many respects, but not in so far as it affords means for exercising the imagination, or exciting the interest which attaches to other times. I am glad to be a writer or a reader in 3 826, but 1 would be most interested in reading or relating what happened from half a century to a century before. We have the best of it. Scenes in which our ancestors thought deeply, acted fiercely, and died desperately, are to us tales to divert the tedium of a winter’s evening, when we are engaged to no party, or beguile a summer’s morning, when it is too scorching to ride or walk. Yet I do not mean that my essays and narratives should be limited to Scotland. I pledge myself to no particular line of subjects ) but, on the contrary, say with Burns, TIIE CANON HATE. 71 Perhaps it may turn out a sang, Perhaps turn out a sermon. 1 have only to add, by way of postscript to these prelim- inary chapters, that 1 have had recourse to Moliere’s re- cipe, and read my manuscript over to my old woman, Janet MacEvoy. The dignity of being consulted delighted Janet ; and Wilkie, or Allan, would have made a capital sketch of her, as she sat upright in her chair, instead of her ordinary lounging posture, knitting her stocking systematically, as if she meant every twist of her thread, and inclination of the wires, to bear burden to the cadence of my voice. 1 am afraid, too, that I myself felt more delight than I ought to have done in my own Composition, and read a little more oratorically than I should have ventured to do before an auditor, of whose applause I was not so secure. And the result did not entirely encourage my plan of cen- sorship. Janet did indeed seriously incline to the account of my previous life, and bestowed some Highland male- dictions more emphatic than courteous on Christie Steele’s reception of a “ shentlemans in distress,” and of her own mistress’s house too. I omitted, for certain reasons, or greatly abridged, what related to herself. But when I came to treat of my general views in publication, I saw poor Janet was entirely thrown out, though, like a jaded hunter, panting, puffing, and short of wind, she endeav- oured at least to keep up with the chase. Or rather her perplexity made her look all the while like a deaf person ashamed of his infirmity, who does not understand a word you are saying, yet desires you to believe that he does un- derstand you, and who is extremely jealous that you sus- pect his incapacity. When she saw that some remark was necessary, she resembled exactly in her criticism the devotee who pitched on the “ sweet word Mesopotamia,” as the most edifying note which she could bring away from a sermon. She indeed hastened to bestow general praise on what she said was all “ very fine but chiefly dwelt on what I had said about Mr. Timmerman, as she was 72 CHRONICLES OF pleased to call the German philosopher, and supposed he must be of the same descent with the Highland clan of M‘Intyre, which signifies Son of the Carpenter. “ And a fery honourable name too — Shanet’s own mither was a M‘Intyre.” In short, it was plain the latter part of my introduction was altogether lost on poor Janet ; and so, to have acted up to Moliere’s system, 1 should have cancelled the whole, and written it anew. But I do not know how it is ; I re- tained, I suppose, some tolerable opinion of my own com- position, though Janet did not comprehend it, and felt loath to retrench those delilahs of the imagination, as Dryden calls them, the tropes and figures of which are caviar to the multitude. Besides, I hate the re-writing, as much as Falstaff did the paying back — it is a double labour. So I determined with myself to consult Janet, in future, only on such things as were within the limits of her comprehension, and hazard my arguments and my rhetoric on the public without her imprimatur. I am pretty sure she will “ applaud it done.” And in such narratives as come within her range of thought and feel- ing, I shall, as 1 at first intended, take the benefit of her unsophisticated judgment, and attend to it deferentially — that is, when it happens not to be in peculiar opposition to my own ; for, after all, I say with Almanzor — Know that I alone am king of me. The reader has now my who and my whereabout, the purpose of the work, and the circumstances under which it is undertaken. He has also a specimen of the author’s talents, and may judge for himself, and proceed, or send back the volume to the bookseller, as his own taste shall determine. THE CANONGATE. 73 CHAPTER VI. The inoou, were she earth 1}', no nobler. Coriolanus. When we set out on the jolly voyage of life, what a brave fleet there is around us, as stretching our fresh can- vass to the breeze, all “ ship-shape and Bristol fashion,” pennons flying, music playing, cheering each other as we pass, we are rather amused than alarmed when some awk- ward comrade goes right ashore for want of pilotage ! — Alas ! when the voyage is well spent, and we look about us, toil-worn mariners, how few of our ancient consorts still remain in sight, and they, how torn and wasted, and, like ourselves, struggling to keep as long as possible oft' the fatal shore, against which we are all finally drifting ! I felt this very trite but melancholy truth in all its force the other day, when a packet with a black seal arrived, containing a letter addressed to me by my late excellent friend Mrs. Martha Bethune Baliol, and marked with the fatal indorsation, “ To be delivered according to address, after I shall be no more.” A letter from her executors accompanied the packet, mentioning that they had found in her will a bequest to me of a painting of some value, which she stated would just fit the space above my cup- board, and fifty guineas to buy a ring. And thus I sep- arated, with all the kindness which we had maintained for many years, from a friend, who, though old enough to have been the companion of my mother, was yet, in gaiety of spirits, and admirable sweetness of temper, capable of being agreeable, and even animating society, for those who write themselves in the vaward of youth ; an advan- tage which I have lost for these five-and-tbirty years. The contents of the packet I had no difficulty in guess- 7 VOL. I. 74 CHRONICLES OF ing, and have partly hinted at them in the last chapter. But to instruct the reader in the particulars, and at the same time to indulge myself with recalling the virtues and agreeable qualities of my late friend, 1 will give a short sketch of her manners and habits. Mrs. Martha Bethune Baliol was a person of quality and fortune, as these are esteemed in Scotland. Her family was ancient, and her connexions honourable. She was not fond of specially indicating her exact age, but her juvenile recollections stretched backwards till before the eventful year 1745 ; and she remembered the Highland clans being in possession of the Scottish capital, though probably only as an indistinct vision. Her fortune, inde- pendent by her father’s bequest, was rendered opulent by the death of more than one brave brother, who fell suc- cessively in the service of their country ; so that the family estates became vested in the only surviving child of the ancient house of Bethune Baliol. My intimacy was formed with the excellent lady after this event, and when she was already something advanced in age. She inhabited, when in Edinburgh, where she regularly spent the winter season, one of those old hotels, which, till of late, were to be found in the neighbourhood of the Canongate, and of the Palace of Holy rood-house, and which, separated from the street, now dirty and vulgar, by paved courts, and gardens of jsome extent, made amends for an indifferent access, by showing something of aristo- cratic state and seclusion, when you were once admitted within their precincts. They have pulled her house down ; for, indeed, betwixt building and burning, every ancient monument of the Scottish capital is now likely to be utterly demolished. I pause on the recollections of the place, however ; and since nature has denied a pencil when she placed a pen in my hand, I will endeavour to make words answer the purpose of delineation. Baliol’s Lodging, so was the mansion named, reared its high stack of chimneys, among which were seen a turret or two, and one of these small projecting platforms called bartizans, above the mean and modern buildings which TIIE CANONGATE. 75 line the south side of the Canongate, towards the lower end of that street, and not distant from the palace. A porte cochere , having a wicket for foot passengers, was, upon due occasion, unfolded by a lame old man, tall, grave, and thin, who tenanted a hovel beside the gate, and acted as porter. To this office he had been promoted by my friend’s charitable feelings for an old soldier, and partly by an idea, that his head, which was a very fine one, bore some resemblance to that of Garrick in the character of Lusignan. He was a man saturnine, silent, and slow in his proceedings, and would never open the porte cochere to a hackney coach ; indicating the wicket with his finger, as the proper passage for all who came in that obscure vehicle, which was not permitted to degrade with its tick- eted presence the dignity of Baliol’s Lodging. I do not think this peculiarity would have met with his lady’s ap- probation, any more than the occasional partiality of Lu- signan, or, as mortals called him, Archy Macready, to a dram. But Mrs. Martha Betlmne Baliol, conscious that, in case of conviction, she could never have prevailed upon herself to dethrone the King of Palestine from the stone bench on which he sat for hours, knitting his stocking, refused, by accrediting the intelligence, even to put him upon his trial ; well judging, that he would observe more wholesome caution if he conceived his character unsus- pected, than if he were detected, and suffered to pass un- punished. For after all, she said, it w-ould be cruel to dismiss an old Highland soldier, for a peccadillo so appro- priate to his country ard profession. The stately gate for carriages, or the humble accom- modation for foot passengers, admitted into a narrow and short passage, running between two rows of lime-trees, whose green foliage, during the spring, contrasted strange- ly with the swart complexion of the two walls by the side of which they grew. This access led to the front of the house, which w^as formed by two gable ends, notched, and having their windows adorned with heavy architec- tural ornaments ; they joined each other at right angles; and a half circular tower, which contained the entrance 76 CHRONICLES OF and the staircase, occupied the point of junction, and rounded the acute angle. One of other two sides of the little court, in which there was just sufficient room to turn a carriage, was occupied by some low buildings an- swering the purpose of offices ; the other, by a parapet surrounded by a highly-ornamented iron railing, twined round .with honeysuckle and other parasitical shrubs, which permitted the eye to peep into a pretty suburban garden, extending down to the road called the South Back of the Canongate, and boasting a number of old trees, many flowers, and even some fruit. We must not forget to state, that the extreme cleanliness of the court-yard was such as intimated that mop and pail had done their utmost in that favoured spot, to atone for the general dirt and dinginess of the quarter where the premises were situated. Over the doorway were the arms of Bethune and Ba- liol, with various other devices carved in stone ; the door itself was studded with iron nails, and formed of black oak ; an iron rasp,* as it was called, was placed on it, in- stead of a knocker, for the purpose of summoning the attendants. He who usually appeared at the summons, was a smart lad, in a handsome livery, the son of Mrs. Martha’s gardener at Mount Baliol. Now and then a ser- vant girl, nicely but plainly dressed, and fully accoutred with stockings and shoes, would perform this duty ; and twdce or thrice I remember being admitted by Beauffet himself, whose exterior looked as much like that of a clergyman of rank as the butler of a gentleman’s family. He had been valet-de-chambre to the last Sir Richard Bethune Baliol, and w T as a person highly trusted by the present lady. A full stand, as it is called in Scotland, of garments of a dark colour, gold buckles in his shoes, and at the knees of his breeches, with his hair regularly dressed and pow T dered, announced him to be a domestic of trust and importance. His mistress used to say of him, He’s sad and civil, And suits well for a servant with my fortunes. * See Chambers’s Traditions of Edinburgh THE CANONGATE 77 As no one can escape scandal, some said that Beauffet made a rather better tiling of the place than the mod- esty of his old-fashioned wages would, unassisted, have amounted to. But the man was always very civil to me. He had been long in the family ; had enjoyed legacies, and laid by a something of his own, upon which he now enjoys ease with dignity, in as far as his newly-married wife, Tibbie Shortacres, will permit him. The Lodging — Dearest reader, if you are tired, pray pass over the next four or five pages — was not by any means so large as its external appearance led people to conjecture. The interior accommodation was much cut up by cross walls and long passages, and that neglect of economizing space which characterizes old Scottish archi- tecture. But there was far more room than my old friend required, even when she had, a$ was often the case, four or five young cousins under her protection ; and 1 believe much of the house was unoccupied. Mrs. Bethune Ba- liol never, in my presence, showed herself so much of- fended, as once with a meddling person who advised her to have the windows of these supernumerary apartments built up, to save the tax. She said in ire, that, while she lived, the light of God should visit the house of her fath- ers ; and while she had a penny, king and country should have their due. Indeed, she was punctiliously loyal, even in that most staggering test of loyalty, the payment of im- posts. Mr. Beauffet told me he was ordered to offer a glass of wine to the person who cqllected the income tax, and that the pW) r man was so overcome by a reception so unwontedly generous, that he had well nigh fainted on the spot. You entered by a matted ante-room into the eating par- lour, filled with old-fashioned furniture, and hung with family portraits, which, excepting one of Sir Bernard Be- thune, in James the Sixth’s time, said to be by Jameson, were exce • lingly frightful. A saloon, as it was called, a long narrow chamber, led out of the dining-parlour, and served for a drawing-room. It was a pleasant apart- 78 CHRONICLES OF ment, looking out upon the south flank of Holyrood-house, the gigantic slope of Arthur’s Seat, and the girdle of lofty rocks, called Salisbury Crags; objects so rudely wild, that the mind can hardly conceive them to exist in the vicinage of a populous metropolis. The paintings of the saloon came from abroad, and had some of them much merit. To see the best of them, however, you must be admitted into the very penetralia of the temple, and al- lowed to draw the tapestry at the upper end of the saloon, and enter Mrs. Martha’s own special dressing-room. This was a charming apartment, of which it would be difficult to describe the form, it had so many recesses which were filled up with shelves of ebony, and cabinets of japan and or molu ; some for holding books, of which Mrs. Martha had an admirable collection, some for a display of orna- mental china, others for shells and similar curiosities. In a little niche, half screened by a curtain of crimson silk, was disposed a suit of tilting armour of bright steel, in- laid with silver, which had been worn on some memora- ble occasion by Sir Bernard Bethune, already mentioned ; while over the canopy of the niche, hung the broad-sword with which her father had attempted to change the for- tunes of Britain in 1715, and the spontoon which her elder brother bore when he was leading on a company of the Black Watch at Fontenoy. There were some Italian and Flemish pictures of ad- mitted authenticity, a few genuine bronzes and other ob- jects of curiosity, which her brothers or herself had picked up while abroad. In short, it was a place where the idle were tempted to become studious, the studious to grow idle — where the grave might find matter to make them gay, and the gay subjects for gravity. That it might maintain some title to its name, I must not forget to say, that the lady’s dressing-room exhibited a superb mirror, framed in silver filigree work ; a beau- tiful toilette, the cover of which was of Flanders lace ; and a set of boxes corresponding in materials and work to the frame of the mirror. THE CANON GATE . 79 This dressing apparatus, however, was mere matter of parade : Mrs. Martha Bethune Baliol always went through the actual duties of the toilette in an inner apartment, which corresponded with her sleeping-room by a small detached staircase. There were, I believe, more than one of those turnpike stairs , as they were called, about the house, by which the public rooms, all of which entered through each other, were accommodated with separate and independent modes of access. In the little boudoir we have described, Mrs. Martha Baliol had her choicest meetings. She kept early hours ; and if you went in the morning, you must not reckon that space of day as ex- tending beyond three o’clock, or four at the utmost. These vigilant habits were attended with some restraint on her visiters, but they were indemnified by your always finding the best society, and the best information, which was to be had for the day in the Scottish capital. With- out at all affecting the blue stocking, she liked books — they amused her — and if the authors were persons of character, she thought she owed them a debt of civility, which she loved to discharge by personal kindness. When she gave a dinner to a small party, which she did now’ and then, she had the good-nature to look for, and the good luck to discover, what sort of people suited each other best, and chose her company as Duke Theseus did his hounds, — - match’d in mouth like bells, Each under each. so that every guest could take his part in the cry ; instead of one mighty Tom of a fellow, like Dr. Johnson, silenc- ing all besides by the tremendous depth of his diapason. On such occasions she offered chere exquise ; and every now and then there was some dish of French, or even Scottish derivation, which, as well as the numerous assort- ment of vins extraordinaires produced by Mr. Beauffet, gave a sort of antique and foreign air to the entertainment, which rendered it more interesting. 80 CHRONICLES OF It was a great thing to be asked to such parties, and not less so to be invited to the early conversazione , which, in spite of fashion, by dint ctf the best coffee, the finest tea, and cliasse cafe that would have called the dead to life, she contrived now and then to assemble in her saloon already mentioned, at the unnatural hour of eight in the evening. At such times, the cheerful old lady seemed to enjoy herself so much in the happiness of her guests, that they exerted themselves in turn to prolong her amusement and their own $ and a certain charm was excited around, seldom to he met with in parties of pleasure, and which was founded on the general desire of every one present to contribute something to the common amusement. But although it was a great privilege to be admitted to wait on my excellent friend in the morning, or to be in- vited to her dinner or evening parties, I prized still higher the right which I had acquired, by old acquaintance, of visiting BalioPs Lodging, upon the chance of finding its venerable inhabitant preparing for tea, just about six o'clock in the evening. It was only to two or three old friends that she permitted this freedom, nor was this sort of chance-party ever allowed to extend itself beyond five in number. The answer to those who came later, an- nounced that the company was filled up for the evening ; which had the double effect, of making those who waited on Sirs. Bethune Baliol in this unceremonious manner punctual in observing her hour, and of adding the zest of a little difficulty to the enjoyment of the party. It more frequently happened that only one or two per- sons partook of this refreshment on the same evening ; or, supposing the case of a single gentleman, Mrs. Mar- tha, though she did not hesitate to admit him to her bou- doir, after the privilege of the French and the old Scottish school, took care, as she used to say, to preserve all pos- sible propriety, by commanding the attendance of her principal female attendant, Mrs. Alice Lambskin, who might, from the gravity and dignity of her appearance, have sufficed to matronize a whole boarding-school, in- stead of one maiden lady of eighty and upwards. As THE CANONGATE. 81 the weather permitted, Mrs. Alifce sat duly remote from the company in a fauteuil behind the projecting chimney- piece, or in the embrasure of a window, and prosecuted in Carthusian silence, with indefatigable zeal, a piece of embroidery, which seemed no bad emblem of eternity. But 1 have neglected all this while to introduce my friend herself to the reader, at least so far as words can convey the peculiarities by which her appearance and con- versation were distinguished. A little woman, with ordinary features and an ordinary form, and hair, which in youth had no decided colour, we may believe Mrs. Martha, when she said of herself that she was never remarkable for personal charms ; a modest admission, which was readily confirmed by certain old ladies, hercontemporaries, who, whatever might have been the youthful advantages which they more than hinted had been formally their own share, were now, in personal ap- pearance, as well as in every thing else, far inferior to my accomplished friend. Mrs. Martha’s features had been of a kind which might be said to wear well ; their irreg- ularity was now of little consequence, animated as they were by the vivacity of her conversation ; her teeth were excellent, and her eyes, although inclining to grey, were lively, laughing, and undimmed by time. A slight shade of complexion, more brilliant than her years promised, subjected my friend amongst strangers to the suspicion of having stretched her foreign habits as far as the prudent touch of the rouge. But it was a calumny ; for when telling or listening to an interesting and affecting story, I have seen her colour come and go as if it played on the cheek of eighteen. Her hair, whatever its former deficiencies, was now the most beautiful white that time could bleach, and was disposed with some degree of pretension, though in the simplest manner possible, so as to appear neatly smoothed under a cap of Flanders lace, of an old-fashioned, but, as I thought, of a very handsome form, which undoubt- edly has a name, and I would endeavour to recur to it, if I thought it would make my description a bit more in- 82 CHRONICLES OF telligible. I think I have heard her say these favourite caps had been her mother’s, and had come in fashion with a peculiar kind of wig used by the gentlemen about the time of the battle of Ramillies. The rest of her dress was always rather costly and distinguished, especially in the evening. A silk or satin gown of some colour becom- ing her age, and of a form, which, though complying to a certain degree with the present fashion, had always a reference to some more distant period, was garnished with triple ruffles ; her shoes had diamond buckles, and were raised a little at heel, an advantage which, possessed in her youth, she alleged her size would not permit her to forego in her old age. She always wore rings, bracelets, and other ornaments of value, either for the materials or the workmanship ; nay, perhaps she was a little profuse in this species of display. But she wore them as subor- dinate matters, to which the habits of being constantly in high life rendered her indifferent ; she wore them because her rank required it, and thought no more of them as articles of finery, than a gentleman dressed for dinner thinks on his clean linen and well-brushed coat, the con- sciousness of which embarrasses the rustic beau of a Sunday. Now and then, however, if a gem or ornament chanced to be noticed for its beauty or singularity, the observation usually led the way to an entertaining account of the man- ner in which it had been acquired, or the person from whom it had descended to its present possessor. On such and similar occasions my old friend spoke willingly, which is not uncommon, but she also, which is more rare, spoke remarkably well, and had in her little narratives concern- ing foreign parts, or former days, which formed an inter- esting part of her conversation, the singular art of dismis- sing all the usual protracted tautology respecting time, place, and circumstances, which is apt to settle like a mist upon the cold and languid tales of age, and at the same time of bringing forward, dwelling upon, and illustrating, those incidents and characters which give point and in- terest to the story. THE CANONGATE. 83 She had, as we have hinted, travelled a good deal in foreign countries; for a brother, to whom she was much attached, had been sent upon various missions of national importance to the continent, and she had more than once embraced the opportunity of accompanying him. This furnished a great addition to the information which she could supply, especially during the last war, when the con- tinent was for so many years hermetically sealed against the English nation. But, besides, Mrs. Bethune Baliol visited distant countries, not as is the modern fashion, when English travel in caravans together, and see in France and Italy little besides the same society which they might have enjoyed at home. On the contrary, she mingled when abroad with the natives of those countries she visited, and enjoyed at once the advantage of their society, and the pleasure of comparing it with that of Britain. In the course of her becoming habituated with foreign manners, Mrs. Bethune Baliol had, perhaps, acquired some slight tincture of them herself. Yet 1 was al- ways persuaded, that the peculiar vivacity of look and manner — the pointed and appropriate action with* which she accompanied what she said — the use of the gold and gemmed t abaticre , or rather I should say bonbonniere , (for she took no snuff, and the little box contained only a few 7 pieces of candied angelica, or some such lady-like sweetmeat,) were of real old-fashioned Scottish growth, and such as might have graced the tea-table of Susannah, Countess of Eglinton, the patroness of Allan Ramsay, or of the Hon. Mrs. Colonel Ogilvy, who was another mirror by whom the maidens of Auld Reekie were required to dress themselves. Although well acquainted with the customs of other countries, her manners had been chiefly formed in her own, at a time when great folk lived within little space, and when the distinguished names of the high- est society gave to Edinburgh the eclat , which we now endeavour to derive from the unbounded expense and ex- tended circle of our pleasures. I was more confirmed in this opinion, by the peculiarity of the dialect which Mrs. Baliol used. It was Scottish, 84 CHRONICLES OF decidedly Scottish, often containing phrases and words little used in the present day. But then her tone and mode of pronunciation were as different from the usual accent of the ordinary Scotch patois , as the accent of St. James’s is from that of Billingsgate. The vowels were not pro- nounced much broader than in the Italian language, and there was none of the disagreeable drawl which is so of- fensive to southern ears, in short, it seemed to be the Scottish as spoken by the ancient court of Scotland, to which no idea of vulgarity could be attached ; and the lively manner and gestures with which it was accompa- nied, were so completely in accord with the sound of the voice and the manner of talking, that 1 cannot assign them a different origin. Jn long derivation, perhaps the manner of the Scottish court might have been originally formed on that of France, to which it had certainly some affinity ; but 1 will live and die in the belief, that those of Mrs. Baliol, as pleasing as they were peculiar, came to her by direct descent from the high dames who anciently adorned with their presence the royal halls of Holy rood. CHAPTER VII. Such as I have described Mrs. Bethune Baliol, the reader will easily believe that when I thought of the mis- cellaneous nature of my work, I rested upon the informa- tion she possessed, and her communicative disposition, as one of the principal supports of my enterprize. Indeed, she by no means disapproved of my proposed publication, though expressing herself very doubtful how far she could personally assist it ; a doubt which might be perhaps set down to a little lady-like coquetry, which required to be sued for the boon she was not unwilling to grant. Or, perhaps, the good old lady, conscious that her unusual THE CANON GATE. 85 term of years must soon draw to a close, preferred be- queathing the materials in the shape of a legacy, to sub- jecting them to the judgment of a critical public during her lifetime. Many a time I used, in our conversations of the Can- ongate, to resume my request of an assistance, from a sense that my friend was the most valuable depositary of Scot- tish traditions that was probably now to be found. This was a subject on which my mind was so much made up, that when 1 heard her carry her description of manners so far back beyond her own time, and describe how Fletcher of Salton spoke, how Graham of Claverhouse danced, what were the jewels worn by the famous Duchess of Lauderdale, and how she came by them, I 'could not help telling her 1 thought her some fairy, who cheated us by retaining the appearance of a mortal of our own day, when, in fact, she had witnessed the revolutions of cen- turies. She was much diverted when I required her to take some solemn oath that she had not danced at the balls given by Mary of Este, when her unhappy husband oc- cupied Holyrood in a species of honourable banishment ; — or asked, whether she could not recollect Charles the Second, when he came to Scotland in 1650, and did not possess some slight recollections of the bold usurper, who drove him beyond the Forth. “ Beau cousin ,” she said, laughing, “ none of these do I remember personally ; but you must know there has been wonderful little change on my natural temper from youth to age. From which it follows, cousin, that being even now something too young in spirit for the years which Time has marked me in his calendar, I was, when a girl, a little too old for those of my own standing, and as much inclined at that period to keep the society of elder persons, as I am now disposed to admit the company of gay young fellows of fifty or sixty like yourself, rather than collect about me all the octogenarians. Now, although I do not actually come from Elfland, and therefore cannot boast any personal knowledge of the great personages you 8 VOL. I. 86 CHRONICLES OF inquire about, yet I have seen and heard those who knew them well, and who have given me as distinct an account of them as I could give you myself of the Empress Queen, or Frederick of Prussia ; and I will frankly add,” said she, laughing and offering her bonbonniere , “ that I have heard so much of the years which immediately suc- ceeded the Revolution, that I sometimes am apt to con- fuse the vivid descriptions fixed on my memory by the frequent and animated recitation of others, for things which I myself have actually witnessed. I caught myself hut yesterday describing to Lord M the riding of the last Scottish Parliament, with as much minuteness as if I had seen it, as my mother did, from the balcony in front of Lord Moray’s Lodging in the Canongate.” “ I am sure you must have given Lord M a high treat.” “ I treated him to a hearty laugh, I believe,” she re- plied ; “ hut it is you, you vile seducer of youth, who lead me into such follies. But I will be on my guard against my own weakness. I do not well know if the wandering Jew is supposed to have a wife, but I should be sorry a decent middle-aged Scottish gentlewoman should be sus- pected of identity with such a supernatural person.” “ For all that, I must torture you a little more, mu belle cousine , with my interrogatories ; for how shall 1 ever turn author unless on the strength of the information which you have so often procured me on the ancient state of man- ners 9” “ Stay, I cannot allow you to give your points of in- quiry a name so very venerable, if I am expected to an- swer them. Ancient is a term for antediluvians. You may catechise me about the battle of Flodden, or ask particulars about Bruce and Wallace, under pretext of curiosity after ancient manners ; and that last subject would wake my Baliol blood you know.” “ Well, but, Mrs. Baliol, suppose we settle our sera : — you do not call the accession of James the Sixth to the kingdom of Britain very ancient *?” THE CANON GATE* 87 “ Umph ! no, cousin — I think I can tell you more of that than folk now-a-days remember, — for instance, that as James was trooping towards England, bag and baggage, his journey was stopped near Coekenzie by meeting the funeral of the Earl of Winton, the old and faithful ser- vant and follower of his ill-fated mother, poor Id ary ! It was an ill omen for the infare , and so was seen of it, cousin.” I did not choose to prosecute this subject, well knowing Mrs. Bethune Baliol did not like to be much pressed on the subject of the Stuarts, whose misfortunes she pitied, the rather that her father had espoused their cause. And yet her attachment to the present dynasty being very sin- cere, and even ardent, more especially as her family had served his late Majesty both in peace and war, she experienced a little embarrassment in reconciling her opinions respecting the exiled family, with those she en- tertained for the present. In fact, like many an old Jaco- bite, she was contented to be somewhat inconsistent on the subject, comforting herself, that now everything stood as it ought to do, and that there was no use in looking back narrowly on the right or wrong of the matter half a century ago. “ The Highlands,” I suggested, “ should furnish you with ample subjects of recollection. You have witnessed the complete change of that primeval country, and have seen a race not far removed from the earliest period of society, melted down into the great mass of civilization ; and that could not happen without incidents striking in themselves, and curious as chapters in the history of the human race.” “ It is very true,” said Mrs. Baliol ; “ one would think it should have struck the observers greatly, and yet it scarcely did so. For me, I was no Highlander myself, and the Highland chiefs of old, of whom I certainly knew several, had little in their manners to distinguish them from the Lowland gentry, when they mixed in society in Edinburgh, and assumed the Lowland dress. Their pe- culiar character was for the clansmen at home ; and you 88 ‘ CHRONICLES OF must not imagine that they swaggered about in plaids and broadswords at the Cross, or come to the Assembly- Rooms in bonnets and kilts.” “ 1 remember,” said 1, “ that Swift, in his Journal, tells Stella he had dined in the house of a Scotch noble- man, with two Highland chiefs, whom he had found as well-bred men as he had ever met with.” “ Very likely,” said my friend. “ The extremes of society approach much more closely to each other than perhaps the Dean of Saint Patrick’s expected. The sav- age is always to a certain degree polite. Besides, going always armed, and having a very punctilious idea of their own gentility and consequence, they usually behaved to each other and to the Lowlanders, with a good deal of formal politeness, which sometimes even procured them the character of insincerity.” “ Falsehood belongs to an early period of society, as well as the deferential forms which we style politeness,” I replied. “ A child does not see the least moral beauty in truth, until he has been flogged half-a-dozen times. It is so easy, and apparently so natural, to deny what we cannot be easily convicted of, that a savage as well as a child lies to excuse himself, almost as instinctively as he raises his hand to protect his head. The old saying, ‘ confess and be hanged,’ carries much argument in it. I observed a remark the other day in old Birrel. He men- tions that M‘Gregor of Glenstrae and some of his people had surrendered themselves to one of the Earls of Argyle, upon the express condition that they should be conveyed safe into England. The Maccallan Mhorof the day kept the word of promise, but it was only to the ear. He in- deed sent his captives to Berwick, where they had an airing on the other side of the Tweed, but it was under the custody of a strong guard, by whom they were brought back to Edinburgh, and delivered to the executioner. This, Birrel calls keeping a Highlandman’s promise.” “Well,” replied Mrs. Baliol, “ I might add, that many of the Highland chiefs whom I knew in former days had been brought up in France, which might improve their THE CANONGATE. 89 politeness, though perhaps it did not amend their insincer- ity. But considering, that, belonging to the depressed and defeated faction in the state, they were compelled sometimes to use dissimulation, you must set their uniform fidelity to their friends against their occasional falsehood to their enemies, and then you will not judge poor John Highlandman too severely. They were in a state of so- ciety where bright lights are strongly contrasted with deep shadows.” “ It is to that point I would bring you, ma belle cousine , — and therefore they are most proper subjects for com- position.” “ And you want to turn composer, my good friend, and set my old tales to some popular tune 9 But there have been too many composers, if that be the word, in the field before. The Highlands were indeed a rich mine ; but they have, I think, been fairly wrought out, as a good tune is grinded into vulgarity when it descends to the hurdy-gurdy and the barrel-organ.” “ If it be a real good tune,” I replied, “ it will recover its better qualities when it gets into the hands of better artists.” “ Umph !” said Mrs. Baliol, tapping her box, “ we are happy in our own good opinion this evening, Mr. Croftangry. And so you think you can restore the gloss to the tartan, which it has lost by being dragged through so many fingers 9 “ With your assistance to procure materials, my dear lady, much, I think, may be done.” “ Well — I must do my best, I suppose ; though all 1 know about the Gael is but of little consequence — In- deed, I gathered it chiefly from Donald MacLeish.” “ And who might Donald MacLeish be 9” > “ Neither bard nor seannachie, I assure you, nor monk nor hermit, the approved authorities for old traditions. Donald was as good a postillion as ever drove a chaise and pair between Glencroe and Inverary. I assure you, when I give you my Highland anecdotes, you will hear much of S* VOL. i. 90 CHRONICLES OF Donald MacLeish. He was Alice Lambskin’s beau and mine through a long Highland tour.” “ But when am I to possess these anecdotes'? — you answer me as Harley did poor Prior — Let that be done which Mat doth say. * Yea/ quoth the Earl, * but not to-day. ; ” “ Well, mon beau cousin , if you begin to remind me of my cruelty, I must remind you it has struck nine On the Abbey clock, and it is time you were going home to Little Croftangry. For my promise to assist your anti- quarian researches, be assured, I will one day keep it to the utmost extent. It shall not be a Highlandman’s promise, as your old citizen calls it.” I by this time suspected the purpose of my friend’s procrastination ; and it saddened my heart to reflect that I was not to get the information which I desired, except- ing in the shape of a legacy. I found accordingly, in the packet transmitted to me after the excellent lady’s death, several anecdotes respecting the Highlands, from which I have selected that which follows, chiefly on account of its possessing great power over the feelings of my critical housekeeper, Janet M‘Evoy, who wept most bitterly when 1 read it to her. It is, however, but a very simple tale, and may have no interest for persons beyond Janet’s rank of life or under- standing. THE CANONGATE. 91 CHAPTER VIII. 5TIj t ffijtfifjlauii SSUtJGto. It wound as near as near could be, But what it is she cannot tell ; On the other side it seemed to be, Of the huge broad-breasted old oak tree. Coleridge. Mrs.Bethune Baliol’s memorandum begins thus: — It is five and thirty, or perhaps nearer forty years ago, since, to relieve the dejection of spirits occasioned by a great family loss sustained two or three months before, I undertook what was called the short Highland tour. This had become in some degree fashionable ; but though the military roads were excellent, yet the accommodation was so indifferent that it was reckoned a little adventure to accomplish it. Besides, the Highlands, though now as peaceable as any part of King George’s dominions, was a sound which still carried terror, while so many survived who had witnessed the insurrection of 1745 ; and a vague idea of fear was impressed on many, as they look- ed from the towers of Stirling northward to the huge chain of mountains, which rises like a dusky rampart to conceal in its recesses a people, whose dress, manners, and language, differed still very much from those of their Lowland countrymen. For my part, I come of a race not greatly subject to apprehensionsarising from imagina- tion only. I had some Highland relatives, knew several of their families of distinction ; and, having only the company of my bower-maiden Mistress Alice Lambskin, I went on my journey fearless, though without an escort. But then I had a guide and cicerone, almost equal to Greatheart in the Pilgrim’s Progress, in no less a person than Donald MacLeish, the postillion whom I hired at 92 CHRONICLES OE Stirling, with a pair of able-bodied horses, as steady as Donald himself, to drag iny carriage, my duenna, and myself, wheresoever it was my pleasure to go. Donald MacLeish was one of a race of post-boys, whom, I suppose, mail-coaches and steam-boats have put out'of fashion. They were to be found chiefly at Perth, Stirling, or Glasgow, where they and their horses were usually hired by travellers, or tourists, to accomplish such journeys of business or pleasure as they might have to perform in the land of the Gael. This class of persons approached to the character of what is called abroad a conducteur ; or might be compared to the sail- ing-master on board a British ship of war, who follows out after his own manner the course which the captain com- mands him to observe. You explained to your postillion the length of your tour, and the objects you were desirous it should embrace ; and you found him perfectly compe- tent to fix the places of rest or refreshment, with due at- tention that those should be chosen with reference to your convenience, and to any points of interest which you might desire to visit. The qualifications of such a person were necessarily much superior to those of the “ first ready,” who gallops thrice a-day over the same ten miles. Donald MacLeish, besides being quite alert at repairing all ordinary acci- dents to his horses and carriage, and in making shift to support them, where forage was scarce, with such substi- tutes as bannocks and cakes, was likewise a man of in- tellectual resources. He had acquired a general know- ledge of the traditional stories of the country which he had traversed so often ; and, if encouraged, (for Donald was a man of the most decorous reserve,) he would wil- lingly point out to you the site of the principal clan-bat- tles, and recount the most remarkable legends by which the road, and the objects which occurred in travelling it, had been distinguished. There was some originality in the man’s habits of thinking and expressing himself, his turn for legendary lore strangely contrasting with a por- tion of the knowing shrewdness belonging to his actual THE CANONGATE. 93 occupation, which made his conversation amuse the way well enough. Add to this, Donald knew all his peculiar duties in the country which he traversed so frequently. He could tell, to a day, when they would “ be killing” lamb at Tyndrum or Glenuilt ; so that the stranger would have some chance of being fed like a Christian ; and knew to a mile the last village where it was possible to procure a wheaten loaf, for the guidance of those who were little familiar with the Land of Cakes. He was acquainted with the road every mile, and could tell to an inch which side of a Highland bridge was passable, which decidedly dangerous.* In short, Donald MacLeish was not only our faithful attendant and steady servant, but our humble and obliging friend ; and though I have known the half- classical cicerone of Italy, the talkative French valet-de- place, and even the muleteer of Spain, who piques himself on being a maize-eater, and whose honour is not to be questioned without danger, I do not think I have ever had so sensible and intelligent a guide. Our motions were of course under Donald’s direction ; and it frequently happened, when the weather was serene, that we preferred halting to rest his horses even where there was no established stage, and taking our refresh- ment under a crag, from which leaped a waterfall, or be- side the verge of a fountain, enamelled with verdant turf and wild flowers. Donald had an eye for such spots, and though he had, I dare say, never read Gil Bias or Don Quixote, yet he chose such halting-places as Le Sage or Cervantes would have described. - Very often, as he observed the pleasure I took in conversing with the coun- try people, he would manage to fix our place of rest near a cottage where there was some old Gael, whose broad- sword had blazed at Falkirk or Preston, and who seemed the frail yet faithful record of times which had passed * This is, or was at least, a necessary accomplishment. In one of the most beautiful districts of the Highlands was, not many years since, abridge bearing this startling caution. “ Keep to the right side, the left being dangerous.” 94 CHRONICLES OF away. Or he would contrive to quarter us, as far as a cup of tea went, upon the hospitality of some parish min- ister of worth and intelligence, or some country family of the better class, who mingled with the wild simplicity of their original manners, and their ready and hospitable welcome, a sort of courtesy belonging to a people, the lowest of whom are accustomed to consider themselves as being, according to the Spanish phrase, “ as good gen- tlemen as the king, only not quite so rich.” To all such persons Donald MacLeish was well known, and his introduction passed as current as if we had brought letters from some high chief of the country. Sometimes it happened that the Highland hospitality, which welcomed us with all variety of mountain fare, preparations of milk and eggs, and girdle-cakes of various kinds, as well as more substantial dainties, according to the inhabitant’s means of regaling the passenger, de- scended rather too exuberantly on Donald MacLeish in the shape of mountain dew. Poor Donald ! he was on such occasions like Gideon’s fleece, moist with the noble element, which, of course, fell not on us. But it was his only fault, and when pressed to drink doch-an-dorroch to my ladyship’s good health, it would have been ill taken to have refused the pledge, nor was he willing to do such discourtesy. It was, I repeat, his only fault, nor had we any great right to complain ; for if it rendered him a little more talkative, it augmented his ordinary share of punc- tilious civility, and he only drove slower, and talked long- er and more pompously than tvhen he had not come by a drop of usquebaugh. It was, we remarked/ only on such occasions that Donald talked with an air of import- ance of the family of MacLeish ; and we had no title to be scrupulous in censuring a foible, the consequences of which were confined within such innocent limits. We became so much accustomed to Donald’s mode of managing us, that we observed with some interest the art which he used to produce a little agreeable surprise, by concealing from us the spot w 7 here he proposed our halt to be made, when it was of an unusual and interesting TIIE CANONGATE. 95 character. This was so much his wont, that when he made apologies at setting off, for being obliged to stop in some strange solitary place, till the horses should eat the corn which he brought on with them for that purpose, our imagination used to be on the stretch to guess what romantic retreat he had secretly fixed upon for our noon- tide baiting-place. We had spent the greater part of the morning at the delightful village of Dalmally, and had gone upon the lake under the guidance of the excellent clergyman who was then incumbent at Glenorquhy, and had heard an hundred legends of the stern chiefs of Lochawe, Dun- can with the thrum bonnet, and the other lords of the now mouldering towers of Kilchurn. Thus it was later than usual when we set out on our journey, after a hint or two from Donald concerning the length of the way to the next stage, as there was no good halting-place between Dalmally and Oban. Having bid adieu to our venerable and kind cicerone, we proceeded on our tour, winding round the tremen- dous mountain called Cruachan Ben, which rushes down in all its majesty of rocks and wilderness on the lake, leaving only a pass, in which, notwithstanding its extreme strength, the warlike clan of MacDougal of Lorn were almost de- stroyed by the sagacious Robert Bruce. That King, the Wellington of his day, had accomplished, by a forced march, the unexpected manoeuvre of forcing a body of troops round the other side of the mountain, and thus placed them in the flank and in the rear of the men of Lorn, whom at the same time he attacked in front. The great number of cairns yet visible, as you descend the pass on the westward side, shows the extent of the ven- geance which Bruce exhausted on his inveterate and per- sonal enemies. I am, you know, the sister of soldiers, and it has since struck me forcibly that the manoeuvre which Donald described, resembled those of Wellington or of Bonaparte. He was a great man Robert Bruce, even a Baliol must admit that ; although it begins now to be allowed that his title to the crown was scarce so good 96 CHRONICLE S OF as that of the unfortunate family with whom he contend- ed — But let that pass. — The slaughter had been the greater, as the deep and rapid river Awe is disgorged from the lake, just in the rear of the fugitives, and encir- cles the base of the tremendous mountain ; so that the retreat of the unfortunate fugitives was intercepted on all sides by the inaccessible character of the country, which had seemed to promise them defence and protection. Musing, like the Irish lady in the song, “ upon things which are long enough a-gone,” we felt no impatience at the slow, and almost creeping pace, with which our con- ductor proceeded along General Wade’s military road, which never or rarely condescends to turn aside from the steepest ascent, but proceeds right up and down hill, with the indifference to height and hollow, steep or level, indi- cated by the old Roman engineers. Still, however, the substantial excellence of these great works — for such are the military highways in the Highlands — deserved the compliment of the poet, who, whether he came from our sister kingdom, and spoke in his own dialect, or whether he supposed those whom he addressed might have some national pretension to the second sight, produced the cel- ebrated couplet — Had you but seen these roads before they were made, You would hold up your hands, and bless General Wade. Nothing indeed can be more wonderful than to see these wildernesses penetrated and pervious in every quarter by broad accesses of the best possible construction, and so superior to what the country could have demanded for many centuries for any pacific purpose of commercial intercourse. Thus the traces of war are sometimes hap- pily accommodated to the purposes of peace. The vic- tories of Bonaparte have been without results ; but his road over the Simplon will long be the communication betwixt peaceful countries, who will apply to the ends of commerce and friendly intercourse that gigantic work, which was formed for the ambitious purpose of warlike invasion. THE CANONGATE. 97 While we were thus stealing along, we gradually turn- ed round the shoulder of Ben Cruachan, and descending the course of the foaming and rapid Awe, left behind us the expanse of the majestic lake which gives birth to that impetuous river. The rocks and precipices which stoop- ed down perpendicularly on our path on the right hand, exhibited a few remains of the wood which once clothed them, but which had, in latter times, been felled to sup- ply, Donald MacLeish informed us, the iron-founderies at Bunawe. This made us fix our eyes with interest on one large oak, which grew on the left hand towards the river. It seemed a tree of extraordinary magnitude and pictur- esque beauty, and stood just where there appeared to be a few roods of open ground lying among huge stones, which had rolled down from the mountain. To add to the romance of the situation, the spot of clear ground extended round the foot of a proud-browed rock, from the summit of which leaped a mountain stream in a fall of sixty feet, in which it was dissolved into foam and dew. At the bottom of the fall the rivulet with difficulty col- lected, like a routed general, its dispersed forces, and, as if tamed by its descent, found a noiseless passage through the heath to join the Awe. # I was much struck with the tree and waterfall, and wished myself nearer them ; not that I thought of sketch- book or portfolio, — for, in my younger days, Misses were not accustomed to black-lead pencils, unless they could use them to some good purpose, — but merely to indulge myself with a closer view. Donald immediately opened the chaise door, but observed it was rough walking down the brae, and that I would see the tree better by keeping the road for a hundred yards farther, when it passed closer to the spot, for which he seemed, however, to have no predilection. “ He knew,” he said, “ a far bigger tree than that nearer Bunawe, and it was a place where there was flat ground for the carriage to stand, which it could jimply do on these braes ; — but just as my leddyship liked.” 9 VOL. I. 98 CHRONICLES OF My ladyship did choose rather to look at the fine tree before me, than to pass it by \n hopes of a finer ; so we walked beside the carriage till we should come to a point, from which, Donald assured us, we might, without scram- bling, go as near the tree as we chose, “ though he wadna advise us to go nearer than the high road.” There was something grave and mysterious in Donald’s sun-browned countenance when he gave us this intima- tion, and » his manner was so different from his usual frankness, that my female curiosity was set in motion. We walked on the whilst, and I found the tree, of which we had now lost sight by the intervention of some rising ground, was really more distant than 1 had at first suppos- ed. “I could have sworn now,” said I to my cicerone, ££ that yon tree and waterfall was the very place where you intended to make a stop to-day.” “ The Lord forbid !” said Donald, hastily. “ And for what, Donald ? why should you be willing to pass so pleasant a spot?” “ It’s ower near Dalmally, my leddy, to corn the beasts — it w T ould bring their dinner ower near their breakfast, poor things : — an’, besides, the place is not canny.” “ Oh ! then the mystery is out. There is a bogle or a brownie, a witch or a gyre-carlin, a bodach or a fairy, in the case ?” “ The ne’er a bit, my leddy — ye are clean aff the road, as I may say. But if your leddyship will just hae patience, and wait till we are by the place and out of the glen, I’ll tell ye all about it. There is no much luck in speaking of such things in the place they chanced in.” I was obliged to suspend my curiosity, observing, that if I persisted in twisting the discourse one way while Donald was twining it another, I should make his objec- tion, like a hempen cord, just so much the tougher. At length the promised turn of the road brought us within fifty paces of the tree which I desired to admire, and I now saw, to my surprise, that there was a human habita- tion among the cliffs which surrounded it. It was a hut of the least dimensions, and most miserable description; THE CANON GATE. 99 that I ever saw even in the Highlands. The walls of sod, or divot, as the Scotch call it, were not four feet high — the roof was of turf, repaired with reeds and sedges — the chimney, was composed of clay, bound round by straw ropes — and the whole walls, roof and chimney, were alike covered with the vegetation of house-leek, rye-grass, and moss, common to decayed cottages lormed of such mate- rials. There was not the slightest vestige of a kale-yard, the usual accompaniment of the very worst huts ; and of living things we saw nothing, save a kid which was brows- ing on the roof of the hut, and a goat, its mother, at some distance, feeding betwixt the oak and the river Awe. “ What man,” I could not help exclaiming, “ can have committed sin deep enough to deserve such a miserable dwelling !” “ Sin enough,” said Donald MacLeish, with a half- suppressed groan ; “ and God he knoweth, misery enough too ; — and it is no man’s dwelling neither, but a wo- man’s.” “ A woman’s !” I repeated, u and in so lonely a place — What sort of a woman can she be *?” “ Come this way, my leddy, and you may judge that for yourself,” said Donald. And by advancing a few steps, and making a sharp turn to the left, we gained a sight of the side of the great broad-breasted oak, in the direction opposed to that in which we had hitherto seen it. “ If she keeps her old wont, she will be there at this hour of the day,” said Donald ; but immediately became silent, and pointed with his finger, as one afraid of being overheard. I looked, and beheld, not without some sense of awe, a female form seated by the stem of the oak, with her head drooping, her hands clasped, and a dark-coloured mantle drawn over her head, exactly as Judah is represented in the Syrian medals as seated under her palm-tree. I was infected with the fear and reverence which my guide seemed to entertain towards this solitary being, nor did I think of advancing towards her to obtain a nearer view until I had cast an inquiring 100 CHRONICLES OF look on Donald ; to which he replied in a half whisper — “ She has been a fearfu’ bad woman, my leddy.” “ Mad woman, said you,” replied I, hearing him im- perfectly ; “ then she is perhaps dangerous T 5 “ No — she is not mad,” replied Donald ; “ for then it may be she would be happier than she is ; though when she thinks on what she has done, and caused to be done, rather than yield up a hair-breadth of her ain wicked will, it is not likely she can be very well settled. But she neither is mad nor mischievous ; and yet, my leddy, I think you had best not go nearer to her.” And then, in a few hurried words, he made me acquainted with the story which I am now to tell more in detail. I heard the narrative with a mixture of horror and sympathy, which at once impelled me to approach the sufferer, and speak to her the words of comfort, or rather of pity, and at the same time made me afraid to do so. This indeed was the feeling with which she was regard- ed by the Highlanders in the neighbourhood, who looked upon Elspat MacTavisb, or the Woman of the Tree, as they called her, as the Greeks considered those who were pursued by the Furies, and endured the mental torment consequent on great criminal actions. They regarded such unhappy beings as Orestes and CEdipus, as being less the voluntary perpetrators of their crimes, than as the passive instruments by which the terrible decrees of Des- tiny had been accomplished ; and the fear with which they beheld them was not unmingled with veneration. I also learned farther from Donald MacLeish, that there was some apprehension of ill luck attending those who had the boldness to approach too near, or disturb the awful solitude of a being so unutterably miserable ; that it was supposed that whosoever approached her must experience in some respect her wretchedness. It was therefore with some reluctance that Donald saw me prepare to obtain a nearer view of the sufferer, and that he himself followed to assist me in the descent down a very rough path. I believe his regard for me conquered some ominous feelings in his own breast, which THE CANONGATE. 101 connected his duty on this occasion with the presaging fear of lame horses, lost linch-pins, overturns, and other perilous chances of the postillion’s life. I am not sure if my own courage would have carried me so close to Elspat, had not he followed. There was in her countenance the stern abstraction of hopeless and overpowering sorrow, mixed with the contending feelings of remorse, and of the pride which struggled to conceal it. She guessed, perhaps, that it was curiosity, arising out of her uncommon story, which induced me to intrude on her solitude — and she could not be pleased that a fate like hers had been the theme of a traveller’s amusement. Yet the look with which she regarded me was one of scorn instead of embarrassment. The opinion of the world and all its children could not add or take an iota from her load of misery; and, save from the half smile that seemed to intimate the contempt of a being wrapt by the very intensity of her affliction above the sphere of ordinary humanities, she seemed as indifferent to my gaze, as if she had been a dead corpse or a marble statue. Elspat was above the middle stature ; her hair, now grizzled, was still profuse ; and it had been of the most decided black. So were her eyes, in which, contradict- ing the stern and rigid features of her countenance, there shone the wild and troubled light that indicates an unset- tled mind. Her hair was wrapt round a silver bodkin with some attention to neatness, and her dark mantle was disposed around her with a degree of taste, though the materials were of the most ordinary sort. After gazing on this victim of guilt and calamity till I w r as ashamed to remain silent, though uncertain how I ought to address her, I began to express my surprise at her choosing such a desert and deplorable dwelling. She cut short these expressions of sympathy, by answer- ing in a stern voice, without the least change of counte- nance or posture — u Daughter of the stranger, he has told you my story.” I was silenced at once, and felt 9 * VOL. i. 102 CHRONICLES 6f how little all earthly accommodation must seem to the mind which had such subjects as hers for rumination. Without again attempting to open the conversation, I took a piece of gold from my purse, (for Donald had intimated she lived on alms,) expecting she would at least stretch her hand to receive it. But she neither accepted nor re- jected the gift — she did not even seem to notice it, though twenty times as valuable, probably, as was usually offer- ed. I was obliged to place it on her knee, saying invol- untarily, as I did so, “ May God pardon you, and relieve you !” I shall never forget the look which she cast up to Heaven, nor the tone in which she exclaimed, in the very words of my old friend, John Home — 11 My beautiful — my brave V It was the language of nature, and arose from the heart of the deprived mother, as it did from that gifted imagin- ative poet, while furnishing with appropriate expressions the ideal grief of Lady Randolph. CHAPTER IX. O, I’m come to the Low Country, Och, och, ohonochie, Without a penny in my pouch To buy a meal for me. I was the proudest of my clan, Long, long may 1 repine; And Donald was the bravest man, And Donald he was mine. Old Song. Elspat had enjoyed happy days, though her age had sunk into hopeless and inconsolable sorrow and distress. She was once the beautiful and happy wife of Hamish MacTavish, for whom his strength and feats of prowess had gained him the title of MacTavish Mhor. His life THE CANONGATE. 103 was turbulent and dangerous, his habits being of the old Highland stamp, which esteemed it shame to want any- thing that could be had for the taking. Those in the Lowland line who lay near him, and desired to enjoy their lives and property in quiet, were contented to pay him a small composition, in name of protection-money, and comforted themselves with the old proverb, that it was better to “ fleech the deil than fight him.” Others, who accounted such composition dishonourable, were of- ten surprised by MacTavish Mhor, and his associates and followers, who usually inflicted an adequate penalty, either in person or property, or both. The creagh is yet remembered, in which he swept one hundred and fifty cows from Monteith in one drove ; and how he placed the laird of Ballybught naked in a slough, for having threatened to send for a party of the Highland Watch to protect his property. Whatever were occasionally the triumphs of this daring cateran, they were often exchanged for reverses ; and his narrow escapes, rapid flights, and ingenious stratagems with which he extricated himself from imminent danger, were no less remembered and admired than the exploits in which he had been successful. In weal or wo, through every species of fatigue, difficulty, and danger, Elspat was his faithful companion. She enjoyed with him the fits of occasional prosperity ; and when adversity pressed them hard, her strength of mind, readiness of wit, and courageous endurance of danger and toil, were said often to have stimulated the exertions of her husband. Their morality was of the old Highland cast, faithful friends and fierce enemies : the Lowland herds and har- vests they accounted their own, whenever they had the means of driving off the one, or of seizing upon the other ; nor did the least scruple on the right of property interfere on such occasions. Hamish Mhor argued like the old Cretan warrior : My sword, my spear, my shaggy shield, They make me lord of all below ; 104 CHRONICLES OF For he that fears the lance to wield. Before my shaggy shield must bow, — His lands, his living, must resign, And all that cowards have is mine. But those days of perilous, though frequently success- ful depredation, began to be abridged after the failure of the expedition of Prince Charles Edward. MacTavish Mhor had not sat still on that occasion, and he was out- lawed, both as a traitor to the state, and as a robber and cateran. Garrisons were now settled in many places where a red coat had never before been seen, and the Saxon war-drum resounded among the most hidden re- cesses of the Highland mountains. The fate of MacTavish became every day more inevitable ; and it was the more difficult for him to make his exertions for defence or es- cape, that Elspat, amid his evil days, had increased his family with an infant child, which was a considerable en- cumbrance upon the necessary rapidity of their motions. At length the fatal day arrived. In a strong pass on the skirts of Ben Cruachan, the celebrated MacTavish Mhor was surprised by a detachment of the Sidier Roy. His wife assisted him heroically, charging his piece from time to time ; and as they were in possession of a post that was nearly unassailable, lie might have perhaps es- caped if his ammunition had lasted. But at length his balls were expended, although it was not until he had fired off most of the silver buttons from his waistcoat, that the soldiers, no longer deterred by fear of the unerring marks- man, who had slain three, and wounded more of their number, approached his stronghold, and, unable to take him alive, slew him, after a most desperate resistance. All this Elspat witnessed and survived, for she had, in the child which relied on her for support, a motive for strength and exertion. In what manner she maintained herself it is not easy to say. Her only ostensible means of support were, a flock of three or four goats, which she fed wherever she pleased on the mountain pastures, no one challenging the intrusion. In the general distress of the country, her ancient acquaintances had little to be- THE CANONGATE. 105 stow ; but what they could part with from their own necessities, they willingly devoted to the relief of others. From Lowlanders she sometimes demanded tribute, rath- er than requested alms. She had not forgotten she was the widow of MacTavish Mhor, or that the child who trotted by her knee might, such were her imaginations, emulate one day the fame of his father, and command the same influence which he had once exerted without con- trol. She associated so little with others, went so seldom and so unwillingly from the wildest recesses of the moun- tains, where she usually dwelt with her goats, that she was quite unconscious of the great change which had taken place in the country around her, the substitution of civil order for military violence, and the strength gained by the law and its adherents over those who were called in Gaelic song, “ the stormy sons of the sword.” Her own diminished consequence and straitened circumstances she indeed felt, but for this the death of MacTavish Mhor was, in her apprehension, a sufficing reason ; and she doubted not that she should rise to her former state of importance, when Hamish Bean (or Fair-haired James) should be able to wield the arms of his father. If, then, Elspat was repelled rudely when she demanded anything necessary for her wants, or the accommodation of her little flock, by a churlish farmer, her threats of vengeance, obscurely expressed, yet terrible in their tenor, used fre- quently to extort, through fear of her maledictions, the relief which was denied to her necessities ; and the trem- bling goodwife, who gave meal or money to the widow of MacTavish Mhor, wished in her heart that the stern old carlin had been burnt on the day her husband had his due. Years thus ran on, and Hamish Bean grew up, not in- deed to be of his father’s size or strength, but to become an active, high-spirited, fair-haired youth, with a ruddy cheek, an eye like an eagle, and all the agility, if not all the strength, of his formidable father, upon whose history and achievements his mother dwelt, in order to form her son’s mind to a sftnilar course of adventures. But the 106 CHRONICLES OF young see the present state of this changeful world more keenly than the old. Much attached to his mother, and disposed to do all in his power for his support, Hamish yet perceived, when he mixed with the world, that the trade of the cateran was now alike dangerous and discred- itable, and that if he were to emulate his father’s prowess, it must be in some other line of warfare, more consonant to the opinions of the present day. As the faculties of mind and body began to expand, he became more sensible of the precarious nature of his situation, of the erroneous views of his mother, and her ignorance respecting the changes of the society with which she mingled so little. In visiting friends and neighbours, he became aware of the extremely reduced scale to which his parent was limited, and learned that she possessed little or nothing more than the extreme necessaries of life, and that these were sometimes on the point of failing. At times his success in fishing and the chase was able to add something to her subsistence ; but he saw no regular means of contributing to her support, unless by stooping to servile labour, which, if he himself could have endured it, would, he knew, have been like a death’s-vvound to the pride of his mother. Elspat, meanwhile, saw with surprise, that Hamish Bean, although now tall and fit for the field, showed no disposition to enter on his father’s scene of action. There was something of the mother at her heart, which prevent- ed her from urging him in plain terms to take the field as a cateran, for the fear occurred of the perils into which the trade must conduct him ; and when she would have spoken to him on the subject, it seemed to her heated imagination as if the ghost of her husband arose between them in his bloody tartans, and laying his finger on his lips, appeared to prohibit the topic. Yet she wondered at what seemed his want of spirit, sighed as she saw him from day to day lounging about in the long-skirted Low- land coat, which the legislature had imposed upon the Gael instead of their own romantic garb, and thought how much nearer he would have resembled her husband, had THE CANONGATE. 107 he been clad in the belted plaid and short hose, with his polished arms gleaming at his side. Besides these subjects for anxiety, Elspat had others arising lrom the engrossing impetuosity of her temper. Her love of MacTavish Mhor had been qualified by re- spect and sometimes even by fear ; for the cateran was not the species of man who submits to female government ; but over his son she had exerted, at first during childhood, and afterwards in early youth, an imperious authority, which gave her maternal love aj^iaracter of jealousy. She could not bear, when Hamish, with advancing life, made repeated steps towards independence, absented him- self from her cottage at such season, and for such length of time as he chose, and seemed to consider, although main- taining towards her every possible degree of respect and kindness, that the control and responsibility of his actions rested on himself alone. This would have been of little consequence, could she have concealed her feelings within her own bosom ; but the ardour and impatience of her passions made her frequently show her son that she con- ceived herself neglected and ill used. When he was absent for any length of time from her cottage, without giving intimation of his purpose, her resentment on his return used to be so unreasonable, that it naturally sug- gested to a young man fond of independence, and desir- ous to amend his situation in the world, to leave her, even for the very purpose of enabling him to provide for the parent whose egotistical demands on his filial attention, tended to confine him to a desert, in which both were starving in hopeless and helpless indigence. Upon one occasion, the son having been guilty of some independent excursion, by which the mother felt herself affronted and disobliged, she had been more than usually violent on his return, and awakened in Hamish a sense of displeasure, > which clouded his brow and cheek. At length, as she persevered in her unreasonable resentment, his patience became exhausted, and taking his gun from the chimney corner, and muttering to himself the reply which his respect for his mother prevented him from speak- 108 CHRONICLES OF ing aloud, he was about to leave the hut which he had but barely entered. “ Hamish,” said his mother, “ are you again about to leave me ?” But Hamish only replied by looking at, and rubbing the lock of his gun. “ Ay, rub the lock of your gun,” said his parent, bit- terly ; “lam glad you have courage enough to fire it, though it be but at a roe-deer.” Hamish started at this undeserved taunt, and cast a look of anger at her in reply. She saw that she had#)und the means of giving him pain. “ Yes,” she said, “ look fierce as you will at an old woman, and your mother ; it would be long ere you bent your brow on the angry countenance of a bearded man.” “ Be silent, mother, or speak of what you understand,” said Hamish, much irritated, “ and that is of the distaff and the spindle.” “ And was it of spindle and distaff that I was thinking when I bore you away on my back, through the fire of six of the Saxon soldiers, and you a wailing child *? 1 tell you, Hamish, I know a hundred-fold more of swords and guns than ever you will ; and you will never learn so much of noble war by yourself, as you have seen when you were wrapped up in my plaid.” “ You are determined at least to allow me no peace at home, mother ; but this shall have an end,” said Hamish, as, resuming his purpose of leaving the hut, he rose and went towards the door. “ Stay, I command you,” said his mother ; “ stay ! or may the gun you carry be the means of your ruin — may the road you are going be the track of your funeral !” “ What makes you use such words, mother 9” said the young man, turning a little back — “ they are not good, and good cannot come of them. Farewell just now, we are too angry to speak together — farewell ; it will be long ere you see me again.” And he departed, his moth- er, in the first burst of her impatience, show r ered after him her maledictions, and in the next invoking them on her own head, so that they might spare her son’s. She passed that day and the next in all the vehemence ot THE CANONGATE. 109 impotent and yet unrestrained passion, now entreating Heaven, and such powers as were familiar to her by rude tradition, to restore her dear son, “ the calf of her heart now in impatient resentment, meditated with what better terms she should rebuke his filial disobedience upon his return, and now studying the most tender language to attach him to the cottage, which, when her boy was pres- ent, she would not, in the rapture of her affection, have exchanged for the apartments of Taymouth Castle. Two days passed, during which, neglecting even the slender means of supporting nature which her situation afforded, nothing but the strength of a frame accustomed to hardships and privations of every kind, could have kept her in existence, notwithstanding the anguish of her mind prevented her being sensible of her personal weakness. Her dwelling, at this unhappy period, was the same cot- tage near which I had found her, but then more habitable by the exertions of Hamish, by whom it had been in a great measure built and repaired. It was on the third day after her son had disappeared, as she sat at the door rocking herself, after the fashion of her countrywomen when in distress, or in pain, that the then unwonted circumstance occurred of a passenger being seen on the high road above the cottage. She cast but one glance at him — he was on horseback, so that it could not be Hamish, and Elspat cared not enough for any other being on earth, to make her turn her eyes to- wards him a second time. The stranger, however, paus- ed opposite to her cottage, and dismounting from his pony, led it down the steep and broken path which conducted to her door. “ God bless you, Elspat MacTavish !”— She looked at the man as he addressed her in her native language, with the displeased air of one whose reverie is interrupted ; but the traveller went on to say, “ I bring you tidings of your son Hamish.” At once, from being the most unin- teresting being, in respect to Elspat, that could exist, the form of the stranger became awful in her eyes, as that of 10 VOL. I. 110 CHRONICLES OF a messenger descended from Heaven, expressly to pro- nounce upon her death or life. She started from her seat, and with hands convulsively clasped together, and held up to Heaven, eyes fixed on the stranger’s counte- nance, and person stooping forward to him, she looked those inquiries, which her faltering tongue could not ar- ticulate. “ Your son sends you his dutiful remembrance and this,” said the messenger, putting into Elspat’s hand a small purse containing four or five dollars. “ He is gone, he is gone !” exclaimed Elspat ; “ he has sold himself to be the servant of the Saxons, and I shall never more behold him. Tell me, Miles MacPhad- raick, for now I know you, is it the price of the son’s blood that you have put into the mother’s hand 9” “ Now, God forbid !” answered MacPhadraick, who was a tacksman, and had possession of a considerable tract of ground under his Chief, a proprietor who lived about twenty miles off — “ God forbid I should do wrong, or say wrong, to you, or to the son of MacTavish Mhor ! I swear to you by the hand of my Chief, that your son is well, and will soon see you ; and the rest he will tell you himself.” So saying, MacPhadraick hastened back up the pathway — gained the road, mounted his pony, and rode upon his way. CHAPTER X. Elspat MacTavish remained gazing on the money, as if the impress of the coin could have conveyed infor- mation how it was procured. “ I love not this MacPhadraick,” she said to herself ; “ it was his race of whom the Bard hath spoken, saying, Fear them not when their words are loud as the winter’s wind, but fear them when they fall on you like the sound TIIE C AXON GATE. Ill of the thrush’s song. And yet this riddle can be read but one way : My son hath taken the sword, to win that with strength like a man, which churls would keep him from with the words that frighten children.” This idea, when once it occurred to her, seemed the more reasona- ble, that MacPhadraick, as she well knew, himself a cau- tious man, had so far encouraged her husband’s practices, as occasionally to buy cattle of MacTavish, although he must have well known how they were come by, taking care, however, that the transaction was so made, as to be accompanied with great profit and absolute safety. Who so likely as MacPhadraick to indicate to a young cateran the glen in which he could commence his perilous trade with most prospect of success, who so likely to convert his booty into money The feelings which another might have experienced on believing that an only son had rush- ed forward on the same path in which his father had per- ished, were scarce known to the Highland mothers of that day. She thought of the death of MacTavish Mhor as that of a hero who had fallen in his proper trade of war, and who had not fallen unavenged. She feared less for her son’s life than for his dishonour. She dreaded on his account the subjection to strangers, and the death- sleep of the soul which is brought on by what she regard- ed as slavery. The moral principle which so naturally and so justly occurs to the mind of those who have been educated un- der a settled government of laws that protect the property of the weak against the incursions of the strong, was to poor Elspat a book sealed and a fountain closed. She had been taught to consider those whom they called Sax- ons, as a race with whom the Gael were constantly at war, and she regarded every settlement of theirs within reach of Highland incursion, as affording a legitimate ob- ject of attack and plunder. Her feelings on this point had been strengthened and confirmed, not only by the desire of revenge for the death of her husband, but by the sense of general indignation entertained, not unjustly, through the Highlands of Scotland, on account of the 112 CHRONICLES OF barbarous and violent conduct of the victors after the battle of Culloden. Other Highland clans, too, she re- garded as the fair objects of plunder when that was pos- sible, upon the score of ancient enmities and deadly feuds. The prudence that might have weighed the slender means, which the times afforded for resisting the efforts of a combined government, which had, in its less compact and established authority, been unable to put down the rava- ges of such lawless caterans as MacTavish Mhor, was unknown to a solitary woman, whose ideas still dwelt upon her own early times. She imagined that her son had only to proclaim himself his father’s successor in adven- ture and enterprize, and that a force of men as gallant as those who had followed his father’s banner, would crowd around to support it when again displayed. To her, Hamish was the eagle who had only to soar aloft and re- sume his native place in the skies, without her being able to comprehend how 7 many additional eyes would have watched his flight, how many additional bullets would have been directed at his bosom. To be brief, Elspat was one who viewed the present state of society with the same feelings with which she regarded the times that had passed away. She had been indigent, neglected, oppressed, since the days that her husband had no longer been feared and powerful, and she thought that the term of her ascend- ance would return when her son had determined to play the part of his father. If she permitted her eye to glance farther on futurity, it was but to anticipate that she must be for many a day cold in the grave, with the coronach of her tribe cried duly over her, before her fair-haired Ha- mish could, according to her calculation, die with his hand on the basket-hilt of the red claymore. His father’s hair was grey, ere, after a hundred dangers, he had fallen with his arms in his hands — That she should have seen and survived the sight, was a natural consequence of the man- ners of that age. And better it was — such was her proud thought — that she had seen him so die, than to have wit- nessed his departure from life in a, smoky hovel — on a bed of rotten straw, like an over- worn hound* or a buf* THE CANONGATE. 113 lock which died of disease. But the hour of her young, her brave Hamisl:, was yet far distant. He must suc- ceed — he must conquer, like his father. And when he fell at length, — for she anticipated for him no bloodless death, — Elspat would ere then have lain long in the grave, and could neither see his death-struggle, nor mourn over his grave sod. With such wild notions working in Jjer brain, the spirit of Elspat rose to its usual pitch, or rather to one which seemed higher. In the emphatic language of Scripture, which in that idiom does not greatly differ from her own, she arose, she washed and changed her apparel, and ate bread, and was refreshed. She longed eagerly for the return of her son, but she now longed not with the bitter anxiety of doubt and ap- prehension. She said to herself, that much must be done ere he could in these times arise to be an eminent and dreaded leader. Yet when she saw him again, she almost expected him at the head of a daring band, with pipes playing, and banners flying, the noble tartans fluttering free in the wind, in despite of the laws which had sup- pressed, under severe penalties, the use of the national garb, and all the appurtenances of Highland chivalry. For all thjs, her eager imagination was content only to allow the interval of some days. From the moment this opinion had taken deep and serious possession of her mind, her thoughts were bent upon receiving her son at the head of his adherents in the manner in which she used to adorn her hut for the return of his father. The substantial means of subsistence she had not the power of providing, nor did she consider that of import- ance. The successful caterans would bring with them herds and flocks. But the interior of her hut was ar- ranged for their reception — the usquebaugh w T as brewed or distilled in a larger quantity than it could have been supposed one lone woman could have made ready. Her hut was put into such order as might, in some degree, 10 * VOL. i. 114 CHRONICLES OF give it the appearance of a day of rejoicing. It was swept and decorated with boughs of various kinds, like the house of a Jewess, upon what is termed the Feast of the Tab- ernacles. The produce of the milk of her little flock was prepared in as great variety of forms as her skill ad- mitted, to entertain her son and his associates whom she expected to receive along with him. But the principal decoration, which she sought with the greatest toil, was the cloud-berry, a scarlet fruit, which is only found on very high hills, and there only in small quantities. Her husband, or perhaps one of his forefathers, had chosen this as the emblem of his family, because it seemed at once to imply by its scarcity the smallness of their clan, and by the places in which it was found, the ambitious height of their pretensions. For the time that these simple preparations of welcome endured, Elspat was in a state of troubled happiness. In fact, her only anxiety was that she might be able to com- plete all that she could do to welcome Hamish and the friends who she supposed must have attached themselves to his band, before they should arrive, and find her un- provided for their reception. But when such efforts as she could make had been ac- complished, she once more had nothing left to engage her save the trifling care of her goats ; and when these had been attended to, she had only to review her little pre- parations, renew such as were of a transitory nature, re- place decayed branches and fading boughs, and then to sit down at her cottage door and watch the road, as it ascended on the one side from the banks of the Awe, and on the other wound round the heights of the mountain, with such a degree of accommodation to hill and level as the plan of the military engineer permitted. While so occupied, her imagination, anticipating the future from recollections of the past, formed out of the morning mist or the evening cloud the wild forms of an advancing band, which were then called “ Sidier Dhu,” — dark soldiers dressed in their native tartan, and so named to distinguish TIIE CANONCATE. 115 them from the scarlet ranks of the British army. In this occupation she spent many hours of each morning and evening. CHAPTER XI. It was in vain that Elspat’s eyes surveyed the distant path, by the earliest light of the dawn and the latest glim- mer of the twilight. No rising dust awakened the ex- pectation of nodding plumes or flashing arms — the solitary traveller trudged listlessly along in his brown Lowland great-coat, his tartans dyed black or purple, to comply with or evade the law which prohibited their being worn in their variegated hues. The spirit of the Gael, sunk and broken by the severe though perhaps necessary laws, that proscribed the dress and arms which he considered as his birthright, was intimated by his drooping head and dejected appearance. Not in such depressed wanderers did Elspat recognize the light and free step of her son, now, as she concluded, regenerated from every sign of Saxon thraldom. Night by night, as darkness came, she re- moved from her unclosed door to throw herself on her restless pallet, not to sleep, but to watch. The brave and the terrible, she said, walk by night — their steps are heard in darkness, when all is silent save the whirlwind and the cataract — the timid deer comes only forth w’hen the sun is upon the mountain’s peak ; but the bold wolf walks in the red light of the harvest-moon. She reasoned in vain — her son’s expected summons did not call her from the lowly couch, where she lay dreaming of his approach. Hamish came not. “ Hope deferred,” saith the royal sage,