Shelf. M :i 2ac/J££jL DaU THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY From the collection of Julius Doerner, Chicago Purchased, 1918. B L^Cet REMOT F STORAG 5 0 / r- -*% y $ * Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates https://archive.org/details/memoirofrevhenry00tyle_1 MEMOIR O F KEY. HENRY LOBDELL, M.D., LATE MISSIONARY OF THE AMERICAN BOARD AT MOSUL: INCLUDING THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE ASSYRIAN MISSION. BY REV. AY. S. TYLER, D. D., GRAVES PROFESSOR OF GREEK IN AMHERST COLLEGE. “ Arise, go unto Nineveh, that great city, and preach unto it the preaching that I bid thee.” — Jonaii ill: 2. PUBLISHED BY THE AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY, No. 28 Corn h ill, Boston. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by THE AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY, In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts Geo. C. Hand & Avery, Printers, 3 Cornhill, Boston. d I7 9tt coy, & REMOTE STORAGE TO THE k. I tSakrgrairattUs anir ^larntti of ^mljerst College ; J AND ESPECIALLY TO THE NUMEROUS MISSIONARIES WHO $ Y~ HAVE MADE THEIR ALMA MATER KNOWN AS A BENEFACTRESS OF THE BENIGHTED NATIONS IN EVERY QUARTER OF THE GLOBE, Hlfmarials of a $*prtor ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR, 701747 PREFACE In an age when missionary enterprise is honored, as it never was before, by the entire Christian community, and when books of travel, and of geographical and antiquarian research, are eagerly welcomed by the reading public, no apology can be needful for the publication of a memoir which combines all these characteristics, — the memoir of one who was at once a traveler and an antiquarian, an Oriental scholar and a Christian missionary ; who carried the glad tidings of the gospel back to those regions where the human race was cradled in its infancy, and who, having done the work of a long life in a few years, at the early age of twenty-eight, laid his worn and weary body down to its last rest on the banks of the Tigris. I only regret that the preparation of the memoir could not have been entrusted to better hands, and that it could not have been earlier accomplished. The causes which have, from year to year, prevented its more seasonable appearance, would be of no interest to the public. When, almost two years ago, the writings of Dr. Lobdell were placed in my hands, with the urgent request that I would prepare the memoir, I was surprised, and almost appalled, by the very vastness of the materials. More than a dozen volumes of manu- script journals, and an incredible number of letters, attested the extent of his observation, the breadth of his plans, the industry and effectiveness of his short life. To read them all over, — to trace the early dawnings of his intellectual life, to review the con- flicts and triumphs of a four years’ course in college, u which I myself saw, and part of which I was,” and then to follow him, step by step, through the brief but brilliant career which he early marked out for himself, and from which he never swerved, or even rested for a moment, till he rested in his grave, — was a labor of love and VI PREFACE. of pleasure. But to select from such a mass the matter best suited to a memoir, to digest it into a connected narrative, and to compress it within the compass of a duodecimo volume, and that, too, amid the cares and labors of an engrossing profession, — this has been the most difficult part of my task. Of the manner in which this task has been executed, they will judge the most charitably who have had the most experience. To the friends, at home and abroad, who have furnished materials, and especially to those who have contributed to the contents of these pages, the author takes this occasion to return his heartfelt acknowledgments. The reader, scarcely less than the* writer, will feel under great obligations to Bev. Professor Seelye, of Amherst College, and Bev. D. W Marsh, of Mosul, — the former the bosom friend of Dr. Lobdell’s early days, the latter the beloved companion of his missionary labors, — for the charm which their pens have lent to the opening and concluding chapters. I am indebted to Bev. Dr. Perkins, of the Nestorian Mission, and Bev. Dr. Anderson, the Secretary of the American Board, for constant encouragement and assistance, without which the work never would have been undertaken, still less successfully accomplished. For myself, I claim no other merit than a faithful representation of the life and character of an able and devoted missionary; and my highest ambi- tion will have been accomplished, if the Memoir shall subserve the holy cause in which its subject lived and died. Amherst, Nov., 1859 , CONTENTS CHATTER I Introductory — Missionaries the Heroes and Martyrs of Modem History — Lives often short; in this respect, like that of Christ — Trails of Dr. Lobdell’s Life, Character, and Field of Labor — Corresponding Characteristics of this Memoir 11 CHAPTER II Farentage — Early Life — Self-support — Self-education — Six Years on a Farm — Teaching — Study of Medicine — Preparation for College — Enters at Am- herst College 15 CHAPTER III Early'Religious Character — Skeptical Doubts and Difficulties — Counteracting Christian Influences — Conversion — Decides at the same time to be a Minis- ter — Commences at once an active Christian Life 23 CHAPTER IY. College .Life — Variety of Character — Mental Excitement — Engaged in Teaching —High Rank as a Scholar — Received as a Beneficiary of the American Education Society — Economy — Faithfulness in all College Studies — Habits of Study — Prize Essay — Reading — Manner of Read- ing — Writing and Speaking — College Societies — Total Abstinence — Prayer Meetings — Secret Prayer — Meditation — The Bible and the Sab- bath — Christian Life — Relation to Teachers and Fellow-Students — Chris- tian Motives in Study — Personal Efforts for the Salvation of Sinners — Inter- crest in Revivals — Vacations — Usefulness in Teaching — At South Amherst — In New London — The ill-fated Atlantic — At Old Hadley — In New York City — Interested in and adapted to the West — Decision to be a Foreign Missionary — Letter to his Mother 33 CHAPTER V. Professional Studies — Inducements to delay — Medical and Theological Stud- ies at New Haven — Freedom of Thought and Speech — Medical Diploma — At Auburn — Severe Mental Conflict — Extracts from Diary — Peace in Be- lieving — Danbury Institute — Marriage — Translation of Prof. DeFelice’s History of the Protestants of France — Establishment of the Second Congre- gational Church in Danbury — Letter to its Members — Offers himself to the service of the American Board — Preference for China — Willingness to go to Mosul — Residence at Andover — Attendance on Hospital Practice in New York — Various Other Engagements — Warns his Brother against Similar Haste 66 CHAPTER VI. Voyage to Smyrna and Beyroot — Licensure — Ordination — Embarkation — Life at Sea — Humor — Sympathy — Hurricane — Sailors — Bible — Plans for its Elucidation — Reading — Gibraltar — Malta — Grecian Archipelago — Smyrna — View from the Harbor — Scene in the Streets — The American Missionaries and their Work —Antiquities — Austrian Steamship Stamboul — viii CONTENTS. Same Route as Paul’s to Phenicia — Patmos and the Seven Churches of Asia — Beyroot — Chapel and Press of American Mission — The Syrian Field — Laborers — Results — Prospects 90 CHAPTER VII Journey to Aintab — English Steamer — Tripoli — Latakiya — Detention of two Weeks — Appeal for Missionaries at Latakiya — Manner of Traveling — Hardships and Dangers of the Way — Valley of the Orontes — Sabbath at Killis — Piety of the Native Brethren — Call for Missionaries — Three Week3 in Aintab — The Work there — Petitioned to remain — Appeal for a Mis- sionary Physician — History and Present State of the Mission 105 CHAPTER VIII. Aintab to Mosul — View from the hill — Fences — Pollat Avedis — Fountain of Aleppo Water — Moslem Prayers — Sleeping in a Tent — Illustrations of Scripture — Crossing a River — Native Helper at Nisib — Crossing the Eu- phrates — Detention — Asdour — Bir — Enlightened Turkey — W oman — The Dragoman Zenope — Desert Plain — Abraham — Dipper — Orion — Iv han of the Four Kings — Sabbath there — A Pastoral Country — Oorfa — Lurchiz Avedis — Abraham’s Cave — The Protestant Community — Appeal for a Mis- sionary — Severek — Birth-place of Judas Iscariot — The “ Black Mountain” — No Forests in Turkey — Thunder Storm — Late arrival at Diarbekr — Gates closed — Key obtained by Mr. Dunmore — Diarbekr — Situation — His- tory — View from the hill across the River — Stoned by the Moslems — Prom- ising Missionary Station — Departure — Voyage down the Tigris — Boat of Skins — Scenery — Arrival at Mosul 125 CHAPTER IX. Mosul — Situation — Description — Site of Nineveh — Nebbi Yoonus, Nimrood, &c. — Fulfillment of Prophecy — Al-Kosh, and Nahum the El-Koshite — River Chebar, and Ezekiel — Babylon — Ezekiel’s Tomb — Tomb of Daniel — Shu- shan the Palace — Heaps of Ruins — The inhabitants a sadder ruin — Ruined Churches — The Nestorians — The Jacobites — The Armenians — All admit the authority of the Scriptures — Inroads of the Papists — Providential Pre- paration for the Missionaries — The Malabar Priest — The mill- wright Micha — Trials of the early Missionaries — Death of Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell, Mr. Hinsdale, Mrs. Laurie, and Dr. Grant — Puseyite influence — Mr. Badger — Temporary Suspension of the Mission — Arrival of Mr. Marsh — Of Mr. and Mrs. Williams 150 CHAPTER X. Climate of Mosul — Extreme heat — Dryness — Houses — Bargains — Cheap living — Opening of his Boxes — Medical Practice — Dispensary — Accompa- nied with Religious Services — Diseases, bodily and spiritual — His own Health — Recreations during and after sickness — Assyrian Antiquities — Missionary Physicians — Stated Religious Services of the Mission — Native Helpers — Priest Michael — Deacon Jeremiah — Micha and Hanna — The Arabic — First Impressions of the Field — Discouragements —Women — Schools — Extracts from Journal — Selections from Letters — To Dr. Perkins — Mr. Coan — Mr. Stoddard — Mr. Seely e — Ilis Brother — Dr. Anderson — Mr. Scofield — Dr. Hitchcock 169 CONTENTS. IX CHATTER XI. Excursion to Sheikli Adi, the seat of the Yezidees, or Devil-worshipers — Their number — Called Heathen — Baadri — Hussein Bey — White Garments — Cleanliness — English Consul — Convent near Al-Kosh — The Monks — The * Jereed, and the Shaking of the Spear — Bozan, the Place of Gathering for the General Judgment — Spirit-rappings — The Butcheries of Beder Khan Bey — Sunday — The Locality — Ceremonies — The Dance — Baptism of Chil- dren — The Temple — Doctrines — Sheikh Adi, the Good Principle — Melek Taoos the Evil — His Symbol, a Peacock — A Breakfast with Sheikh Nasir — Reverence Satan — Adore the Sun — Relic of Sabeanism — Schools, &c., at Mosul 213 CHAPTER XII. The Winter and Spring of 1853 — Seed Time and Harvest both natural and spiritual — His Tongue unloosed — Discussions on the Way of Salvation — Crowds in the Dispensary and the Study — Extracts from Journal — Great Excitement — Great Fatigue — Great Joy — Feasts of St. Peter and St Elias — Fast of the Prophet Jonah — Summoned before the Cadi — Refuses to give Medicines without the Gospel — Persecution at Tel Keif — The Jews — The Yezidees — The Arabs — Nimrood — Palace of Sennacherib at Koyunjik — Bible Illustrations — Linguistic Speculations — Uncle Tom’s Cabin— Post Days — Moslems like the Chief Priests and Pharisees — No Sadducees — Im- plicit Faith — Ignorance — Papal Lies — History of the Reformation repeated — Arguments 228 CHAPTER XIII. Second Summer in Mosul — The Heat — Insects — Missionary Labors and Joys — Arrival of Mr. and Mrs Marsh — Commentary on the Book of Jonah — The Hot Sun — The East Wind — The Gourd — The “Exceeding Great City ” — Articles on Mosul — Nestorian and Jacobite Liturgies — Prophecy — Tour to Oroomiah — Bartulli — Churches — Trees — Threshing — Karamels — An- cient Bumadus— The Zab — An Old Friend — Nocturnal Adventures — Arbeel — Ain Ivawa — Preaching till Midnight — Sheikh Laua — Exciting Scenes — Koords — Night Ride — Ravendouz— Basalt Pillars — An Encounter — Oroomiah — A Paradise — Sickness — Letter of Dr Perkins — “ Our Coun- try’s Sin ” — Anti-Slavery Circular — Peculiar Policy of the Nestorian Mis- sion — Life in and around Oroomiah — Visit to Tabreez with Mr. Cochran — Narrow Escape on the Lake of Oroomiah — Return with Messrs. Rhea and Coan to Mosul — Gawar — Deacon Tamo — Mountains of Jeloo — Valleys — Love of Home — Erwintoos-Too — Bass — Tekhoma — Scene of the Massacre — Dr. Grant 255 CHAPTER XIV. Fellowship of Assyrian and Nestorian Missions — Imperfect Health of Dr. Lobdell — English Patients — Practical Questions — The largest Liberty — Languages — Gift of Tongues — Climate — Examination of Church Mem- bers— A Marriage — A Hospital — Preaching at the Dispensary — Obstacles —Effect of the War — Rabbi Shiloam — Moollah Yoosuf— Annual Report of the Mission — Persecution — Papists — Progress — Honesty — Thanksgiving at Mosul — Private and Inward Life 290 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. Second Winter in Mosul — Ice — Health — Resolutions — Growth in Grace —The Bible— The Dispensary — Spread of the Truth — Nimrood and Koyun- jik — Shiloam — Illustrations of Life in Mosul — Oriental Theology — Prot- estant Community at Diarbekr — General Meeting of the Assyrian Mission — Journey of Dr. Lobdell and Mr. Marsh to Diarbekr — Changes and Progress there— Letters to Mr. Crane and Dr. Perkins 303 CHAPTER XVI. Riots at Mosul— Intercourse with Mosul Dignitaries — The Cadi — The Kai- makam — Yiehye EfFendi — The Prince of the Scholars — The Prince of the Merchants — The Pasha — Death of Yiehye EfTendi and Moollah Yussuf — Burial Rites — Moslem Bigotry — Journey with Mrs. Williams for her Health — Akra — Paradise — Morality no part of Religion — Dr. Bacon — Rural Scene — Increased Illness of Mrs. Williams — Death — Return to Mosul — Sickness of Mr. Williams — Death again in the Missionary Circle — Death of Friends in America — Of Mr Crane — Missionary Work — Plot for an Insurrection — Letter to the Tribune in Defence of Missions — To the Society of Inquiry at Andover — Anti-Slavery Circular — Notes on Xenophon’s Anabasis — Contributions to the American Oriental Society — Letters of Professors Salisbury and Whitney — Theology 320 CHAPTER XVII. Extracts from Journal — Contributions by Missionaries to the Advancement of Learning — Dr. Judson — Dr. Perkins — Healt^ Station at Deira — Dr. Lobdell’s Journey thither — Establishment of a Seminary at Mosul — The Education Question — Disturbed State of the Country — Yezdinshir Bey — Siege of Jezireh — Protestant Cemetery — Demolition of the Wall at the Insti- gation of the Papists — Action of the Board on Slavery — Combination to drive away the Missionaries — Archbishop Behnam — Scarlet Fever — Pota- toes in Mosul — Letter written at Nimrood — Sculptures, Coins, and other Relics of Antiquity— The Nineveh Gallery at Amherst — Bible Illus- trations 343 CHAPTER XVIII. Tour to Baghdad and Babylon — Voyage down the Tigris — Kalah Sherghat — Tekrit — Birthplace of Saladin — Samarah — A gorgeous Sunset — Palms and Pomegranates — Post — Baghdad — Col. Rawlinson — The Residency — Cli- mate — English Hospitality — Mr. Bruhl — Prof. Petermann — M. Fresnel — The Belgian Colonel — Aleppo Button — Circular Boats — Ride to Babylon — Canals and Khans— The Count — The Pasha — Babel — Birs Nimrood— Cof- fins and Tombs — Theory of Babylon — Pilgrimage to Ivazmain — Jewish Hospital — Visit to the Pasha — Arrival of Mr. Murray — The Steamer — Sun- day Levee — Interview with the Ambassador — Return by post to Mosul 36T CHAPTER XIX. Occupations after his return from Baghdad — Chills and Fever — Last Letter — Last Entry in private Journal— Mrs. Lobdell’s Journal of his Sickness — Death — Burial by the side of Dr. Grant — Communion of Choice Spirits in Heaven — Wife and Children — Age — Brainerd — Martyn — Fruits of his Labors — Character— Recollections and Impressions of his Friends— Mr. Lothrop — Mr. Seelye — Dr. Perkins — Mr. Marsh 390 MEMOIR. CHAPTER I. Introductory — Missionaries the Heroes and Martyrs of Modern History — Lives often short; in this respect, like that of Christ — Traits of Dr. Lobdell’s Life, Character, and Field of Labor — Corresponding 1 Characteristics of this Memoir. The Roman mother pointed to her sons, saying, “ These are my jewels.” Christian missionaries are among the choicest jewels of the church. Their example and influ- ence are her true riches ; their memory is her imperishable crown. They are the heroes of modern history, who con- tend against fearful odds, win bloodless battles, plant the standard of the cross on distant shores, and annex the farthest East with the remotest W est to the dominions of the Prince of Peace. They are the martyrs of these lat- ter days, who attest the truth and power of the religion of Jesus by their consecrated and self-denying lives, — not unfrequently by their early and triumphant deaths. As a class, they are perhaps the nearest living representatives of the first great Missionary, who was “ sent ” into our world for its redemption, — the brightest earthly image of the first Christian Martyr, who sealed his own New Tes- tament with his own precious blood. For the honor of Christ, then, as well as for the edification of the church, the memory of missionaries should be cherished; their names should be written on earth as, we are assured, they are registered in heaven ; their influence, so far as possi- ble, should be perpetuated through time as, we know, it will be in eternity. 12 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. What though they are cut down, like the morning flower, in the fresh bloom, perchance in the very bud, of their beauty and usefulness ! So much the more reason is there, if possible, to perpetuate the impression of such a character, — to catch and preserve the fragrance of such a life. This is only another point of resemblance to him whose public ministry was only half of the sacred seven, the perfect number of the Hebrews, and only the tenth part of an entire generation; and who encouraged his followers to lose their life here, and find it hereafter, by that beautiful and instructive simile, — “Except a corn of wheat fall into the ground and die, it abideth alone ; but if it die, it bringeth forth much fruit.” The subject of this memoir was scarcely three full years in the field of his missionary labors : yet he lived long enough to develop a mature Christian character ; to exert a powerful Christian influence ; to attach strongly to him- self many both at home and in foreign lands, and, thus, when he was taken to a better world, to draw them up- ward by a sweet and almost irresistible attraction. The “ corn of wheat ” was already ripe when it fell into the ground, and eternity alone will reap the full harvest of immortal fruit. The life of Dr. Lobdell, though short, was stirring and eventful ; it were hardly extravagant to say, it Avas heroic and martyr-like, almost from the first, in its perpetual struggle with difficulties. His character, though of course not what it would have been had he lived to a more ad- vanced age, was strongly marked, original, bold, free from all affectation, and all imitation of any human being, yet subdued by the grace of God, and modeled ever more and more into the image of Christ. And his field is one of peculiar interest, — the cradle of the human race ; the neighborhood, if not the very site, of the Garden of Eden ; lying at the base of the mountains of Ararat ; the land of Shinar, of Babel, and Erech, and Accad, and Calneh ; the MESOPOTAMIA. 13 country of Asshur, and Nineveh, and Rehoboth, and Ca- lah, and Resen ; the birth-land of Abraham and the Hebrew patriarchs ; the burial-place of Jonah, and Eze- kiel, and Daniel, and Nahum, among the prophets ; the theater of events scarcely less miraculous, the occasion of an inspiration even more prophetic, and the source of an influence on the chosen people no less important, than those connected with their sojourn in, and exodus from, Egypt. Mesopotamia is the fountain of sacred history; and it can not but awaken profound interest in the observing and reflecting mind to see the stream, under the guidance of Christian missions, “ flow back where it began.” Much of the same interest attaches to the entire field of Turkish missions. The theater of the most important events in the history of our world’s redemption (to say nothing of the strange fascinations that hang about the secular history of those countries of the Orient now under Ottoman rule), — the scene of the whole history of the old Jewish economy, and of the commencement of the new Christian dispensation, — it is now not only drawing the attention of all Christendom as the brilliant prize for which the great powers of Europe are contending, but, what is of infinitely higher moment, it is now again fast- ening on itself the admiring gaze of angels and principali- ties and powers in heavenly places, as the scene of the conflicts and triumphs of American missionaries ; conflicts and triumphs which are winning more honor to our name and nation in the estimation of the wise and good of earth, as well as in the eyes of the holy in heaven, than all the boasted acquisitions of American valor and states- manship, or even of American enterprise and skill, whether in the political or the commercial world. No small part of this great missionary field was visited by Dr. Lobdell on the way to his own station ; and as he tarried with his missionary brethren, and entered with all 2 14 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. liis heart into their labors, and recorded the results of his observations in his copious journals, the history and pres- ent state of several of the most interesting stations be- come a part of his own history, and will be transferred with more or less fullness to these pages. It was eminently characteristic of our young brother to sympathize with everything human, as well as everything Christian, around him ; to live with and in the men and the things with which, from time to time, he had to do. Hence his journal, which he began to keep long before he went to college, and continued with scarcely an interrup- tion till his last sickness, is a full — and frank as full — record, not only of his own daily life, but of the sayings and doings of others with whom he was associated ; and is almost a history, not of himself merely, but also of his times. His life thus gains in breadth and depth what it lost in length; and his biography cannot be truly and faithfully written without exhibiting more or less of this characteristic feature. Should any part of these memoirs appear to enter into too much detail of apparently extra- neous matter, our apology will be found in this fact, to- gether with the fullness of the journals, which rendered selection the chief difficulty. We do not apprehend, however, that, in the view of most readers, these inci- dental sketches of other missionaries and other missions will detract from the instruction and interest of a life which, if we have not altogether mistaken it, had in it much that was attractive and noble, and not a little that should stimulate us “ to make our lives,” as his was, “ sublime ” CHAPTER II. Parentage — Early Life — Self-support — Self-education — Six Years on a Farm — Teaching — Study of Medicine — Preparation for College — Enters at Amherst College. Henry Lobdell was born in Danbury, Fairfield coun- ty, Connecticut, January 25th, 1827. The little, old, wood-colored house in which he first saw the light, and where he spent his earliest years, though no longer occupied by any of the family connection, still stands on an emi- nence in the outskirts of that busy yet beautiful manufac- turing village, and overlooks a scene of activity and industry as untiring as that by which his own life was marked. It commands, also, an extensive prospect of those hills and valleys, of that rugged surface and pictur- esque scenery, which distinguish in different degrees the western counties of Connecticut and Massachusetts, and fit them to produce, not corn and wine, but men. Those counties may well be called the birthplace of American Missions. There was the Mission School at Cornwall, in which native preachers were trained for the American Indians and the Sandwich Islands. There is Williams College, where clustered the young men, and went up the prayers, that led to the formation of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions. Mills and Hall and Fiske and Parsons were born there ; and not a few other pioneer missionaries, some of whom rest from their labors and their works do follow them, while others still five to gather in the harvest, and see on earth the fruits of their toils. And not existence only, but their distinc- tive character has been given to American Missions, by the enterprise and energy, the temperance and patience, and power of endurance, and the intelligent and manly 16 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. piety residing in these hill towns of Western New Eng- land. May the fountain never dry up ! Henry was the second of six children, and the oldest .son of Henry C. and Almina M. Lobdell, who were both natives of Fairfield county, and both live to mourn the loss of their first-born son. His parents were poor, and he never ceased to thank God for their poverty, as his safeguard from temptation, and the spring of his own exer- tions. Both are persons of strongly marked character. His father, a comb-manufacturer, is a man of vigorous native intellect, resolute will and thoughtful spirit, accus- tomed to think for himself on every subject, not excepting the subject of religion. He would seem to have inherited a tendency to skepticism, which he transmitted to his son ; though the grace of God triumphed over it, (not without a severe struggle,) in the son, and made him at length the instrument of counteracting it in the father. His mother unites a strong mind with lively feelings. She is a mem- ber of the Methodist Episcopal Church, a woman of earnest piety and uncommon excellence ; and her fondest hopes and strongest desires, which were for the religious character of her children, have been realized, in a great measure through the co-operation and influence of her eldest son, in the' hopeful conversion of them all. Henry manifested at a very early age an active, inquis- itive mind, and a determined will combined with an amiable and affectionate disposition. It was characteristic of the boy, and of the future man also, that he ran aw^ay, not from but to school, when he was two and a half years old ; and he was ever after among the foremost in his classes. But from early childhood he was taught to connect study with labor. His parents were dependent upon their own daily toil for the sustenance of the family, and it became necessary that his sujDport should as soon as pos- sible cease to burden them. At nine years old he begun EARLY EDUCATION. IT to help himself, by doing what he could in a neighboring field and shop. At ten, he was placed in the family of a farmer in Reading, an adjoining town ; where he spent six years, working forming some pleasant acquaintances with English and French merchants, rejoicing in the apparent sincerity and scriptural piety of the few Protestant Chris- tians, looking with more or less interest on the gardens, bazaars, Saracenic walls, and crumbling ruins f of a city which at the close of the last century, numbered 230,000 inhabitants, but now only 80,000 ; and sorrowing most of all, that a city, still so large, should have but a single, sol- itary missionary, t to preach the pure gospel to its igno- rant and bigoted population. * In 1822, an earthquake overturned most of the public buildings and reduced the greater part of the city to a heap of ruins, t Dr. Pratt now occupies the place then occupied by Mr. Ford. 112 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. In Aleppo, Dr. Lobdell received his first package of letters from “home,” and among the rest one from the pastor of his beloved church in Danbury. It calls forth the liveliest emotions. He answers it immediately, and as he looks back upon their blessings he thus speaks, in contrast, of what his eyes had seen, and his heart had felt in the villages which he had just passed through, and in the great city which was now his place of sojourn . “I do not believe a single individual with whom I had any- thing to do in those villages, knows anything about the way, the truth, and the life. Many profess to love Chris- tianity, but their religion has not even the form of godli- ness. And then the temporal wretchedness — what can relieve it but the gospel ? Some of these places appeared to be waiting for the fires of Sodom and Gomorrah. You can form no conception of their filth, misery, and pollu- tion. My heart mourned over them. But I can only send a faint voice to my countrymen for help. Come and teach them; they know not what they do. I will welcome others, as my brethren have welcomed me, to a share in their trials and their joys, their sufferings and their reward. No earthly inducement can be offered, but a mere natural sympathy that is ineffective and futile ; but clad in the panoply of heaven, and laboring with the eye upon eternity, one can live and die for their salvation. I do not love my country less, that I am far away ; I pray that she may fulfill her glorious mission. She seems to me to be the star of hope for the nations. But her own salvation depends upon her attachment to the Bible, and her zeal in its propagation. There is no worse enemy to his own country, than he who would hoard its blessings like the miser. True philanthropy and true patriotism are inseparable. While the state of the world at large is what it is, that is a false patriotism which turns all its care upon the land of one’s nativity. The true patriot is he KILLIS. 113 who views the whole world as his country, who realizes that humanity has a common interest in a common des- tiny. Let us be neither Greek, Jew, Turk, English, or American, if we must forget our relationship to the uni- versal brotherhood. Let demagogues be partisans, but let Christians be philanthropists. “ Since reaching Aleppo, and seeing the diversity of sects here, all holding fundamental errors, I feel more than ever that the pure precepts of the gospel are the only sure guide to unity and safety. It is sad to find not a score of real Christians among a population of 80,000. But ‘a little leaven leaveneth the whole lump.’ So we will hope. There is much to encourage labor, and it is not too much to ask, that into this quarter of the Lord’s vineyard, the American churches should send a hundred laborers this year. New Englanders are generous, but they can afford to be more so. They are at the summit of the race ; may their benefactions flow over the earth. Cry aloud, and spare not, my brother. After the conflict is peace and a crown.” Leaving Aleppo on Friday, March 19th, two days brought them to Killis, where they spent the Sabbath ; and then after two days more of greater hardship and suffering than they had experienced even on their journey from Latakiya to Aleppo, they arrived, tired, chilled with the cold, and sick, at the quarantine in Aintab. The incidents of this journey and Dr. Lobdell’s observations by the way, as he narrates them in a full but unadorned journal sent to his friends, exceed in interest many a chapter in those ro- mances and books of travel, which so fascinate the reading public of our day. But they were quite subordinate in his estimation to the moral and religious aspects of those most interesting missionary stations ; and we can not dwell upon them in this memoir. The following extracts from letters giving an account 10 * 114 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. of the Sabbath at Killis, and the state of things at Aintab, though somewhat disconnected, can not but be read with deep interest. Aintab, Syria, March 30, 1852. Dear Brother Scofield, — I have just time to say a few words about our journey hither from Aleppo, and the state of things in Aintab. I may also say something of Killis, where we spent the last Sabbath. We had rainy weather most of the time, and were obliged to sleep in very uncomfortable mud huts two out of the four nights we were on the road. But I need not speak of the neces- sity of sleeping in the same room with a dozen different species of animals of all sizes and habits, of the dirty floors, the muddy yards, the wretched people, and our little dif- ficulties en route . I might interest you, perhaps, with a description of our appearance while crossing a swamp, and the house in which we Avere obliged to lie on the wet earthen floor, while our baggage was left for the night in the mud ; our eating rice with penknives, and seeing the natives make their beds in dirty cut straw. But you wish to know the state of the people’s souls, and the opinions of your brother regarding the openings here for missionary effort. I have already sent to the United States a little account of our stay with our native brother Sarkis at Killis ; of our cordial welcome to the hosjfitalities of his house, which he insisted on almost vacating for our accommodation ; of the contrast between its whitewashed Avails and its cur- tained, carpeted, and every Avay comfortable apartments Avith the hovel in which Ave had passed the previous night, and Avith the ordinary houses of the unenlightened masses of the people ; of the A r oices of prayer and hymns of praise from the native brethren Avhich Avere the last sounds I heard on Saturday evening, and the first I heard on Sunday morning \ and of the unity, faith, and love, Avliich A SABBATH IN KILLIS. 115 were manifested by this little band of truly primitive dis- ciples, gathered almost entirely by the labors of native Protestant lay Christians. I will just show you the way in which I succeeded in communicating with the native brethren. I had no letter of recommendation to them, and was taken to the house of this Protestant by our Moslem muleteer. The brethren were amazed at the di- minutive size of my Bible, and though I could speak no Turkish and but little Arabic, I managed to assure them, by quoting passages with proper names, of the identity of our books. We were all of one spirit, and I prayed with them m English at their request. Our songs were heart- felt, if not musical. In the afternoon, they requested me to go with them to a little, low, cold room — their church — and compare our Bibles still further. By learning a few Turkish words, I could refer them to the chapter and verse which I wished to bring to their notice. Desiring to learn the extent of their acquaintance with the doc- trines of Protestantism, I requested them to take the lead in the selection. They quoted such passages as these : — “ Christ is become of no effect unto you, whosoever of you is justified by the law”; “We are the circumcision which worship God in the Spirit, and rejoice in Christ Jesus, and have no confidence in the flesh,” &c. I need not specify others. These show that they have the seed of the gospel. Their holy conversation, so far as I could understand it, and their anxiety to have a preacher sent them from America, prove that they are looking to Jesus, and wish their fellow citizens to know the gospel in its purity. They said it could not be jileasant for my coun- trymen to leave all their blessings and come to dwell with such a poor people as they ; nevertheless, they would send forth a Macedonian cry. And do you not think I could appreciate their earnestness, when they turned my eye to the passage in Luke, declaring that “the harvest is great,” and to Christ’s answer to the man who said, “ I will fol- 116 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. low thee, but let me first go bid them farewell which are in my house.” — “No man having put his hand to the plow, and looking back is fit for the kingdom of heaven.” I never spent such a Sabbath as that. We sat three suc- cessive hours together, and I felt that it was good to be there. Poor they were, but yet they were richer than many with their millions ; their treasure is in heaven, and their hearts are there also. They held no less than four services of their own, besides the time they spent with me ; and even when I awoke in the morning, the voice of prayer and songs of praise were rising from their bowed hearts, declaring that they had a peace which the world can neither give nor take away. They are mostly dyers, but their souls are clean. I could have stopped with them, dirty and unattractive as the town was, with great pleas- ure. The next morning they followed us out of town — about twenty men — and having bade them a soul-felt fare- well, we all looked up to heaven in token of our common hopes, and separated to meet again only in eternity. But, my dear brother, will you not remember those dear poor Christians without a leader? Will not our church re- member them ? They rejoiced greatly, when I told them as I left, that I had written the evening before in their behalf to America. You would rejoice to labor with them ; if you can not come, send a substitute. Danbury ought to send forth twelve missionaries in as many years ; will you not try to stir up the people to their duty. Since reaching Aintab, though we have spent a nomi- nal five days’ quarantine in a damp room, through which the cold winds whistled mournfully, and have been out only one day, I have seen enough to reassure you that a glorious work is transpiring here. The people are poor, but what a fullness of the Holy Ghost many of them have ! The church is not large, but many are seeking to enter. Of the building, I shall speak hereafter — a mere mat- covered frame and bare ground. Schools are held in it, AINTAB. 117 and a blind teacher in the female department is the most interesting man I ever saw. He reminds me of Stephen, — his countenance is heavenly, and his heart is full of peace. You may see his portrait in an old number of the Day Spring. Though blind, he sees. Mr. and Mrs. Schneider arc absent ; Mr. and Mrs. Crane and Mrs. Dr. Smith are the only missionaries left. They are all feeble. They need medical help very much here, and desire me to stay ; but I must go on. The American Board should send not ten, but fifty men into this region soon. The towns are open and the people call. Will the churches hear ? It is not rhetoric when the missionaries state the wants of this people — it is sober matter of fact. I rejoice to be here. Mrs. L. is not very strong, but we shall go on next week.” Detained two or three weeks by the sickness of Mrs. Lobdell and their babe, Dr. Lobdell wrote a week later to the same friend. He describes briefly the situation of Aintab, its countless graves, its varied population, and the beautiful valley, in which mounds and meads, flocks and streams are to be seen in every direction. “There is nothing particularly attractive in the region about, except this valley, and there are no public works or remains of antiquity to interest the traveler. But a few years ago it had not been heard of out of Asia Minor and Syria ; now its reputation is world-wide. Victories of Saracens and Crusaders — what are they , compared with the moral triumphs and conquests that have recently been witnessed here ! The town is built of a coarse, chalky limestone, which easily crumbles, and in many places the walls are seen tumbling down. I have noticed the walls of mosks disintegrating and giving a good illustration of the wor- shipers that gather five times daily in them. Poverty is written all over the city. But a spirit of enterprise is ap- pearing among those to whom the gospel has been faith- fully preached for a few years past. Dr. Smith, though 118 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. dead, yet speaks. The posts which he established in Asia Minor have become the admiration of all the people. His influence is scarcely less apparent in the secular, than in the religious condition of the community .” He fulfills his promise and gives a description of the church edifice ; how it grew by successive and irregular ad- ditions, till an old one-story stone house, some fifteen feet by forty, became a great tabernacle “ enclosed by straw mats against stakes, thatched with straw, like an old-fashioned New England barn,” and, with the help of a rude “gallery formed by stretching a few boards across the west end,” capable of containing rather than accommodating six or seven hundred worshipers; and the original place of worship — the nucleus about which the successive accre- tions had gathered — was now set apart for the women. “ It is of course deeply interesting to see the audience on the Sabbath. The pulpit is a little platform behind a desk, considerably less furnished than those usually found in a New England school-house, and recesses are left in the walls, where the boots and overshoes of the natives are deposited as they enter. They all sit cross-legged on the mats that are spread on the earthen floor ; and when a hymn has been read, the whole audience unite in a tre- mendous burst of would-be music. During prayer their heads are uncovered by removing their turbans. When preaching has commenced every eye is turned towards the preacher and remains riveted on him till he closes his discourse. Oh, how I wanted to preach to that audience ! “ The women all wore their white veils or sheets, which cover the entire person ; and we could not but think of the contrast of their condition with that of the women at home. Even the ladies of the mission families deem it wise to regard somewhat the oriental notion of their in- feriority to the men. It will not do for one of them to ride on horseback here. It is but lately that even the gentlemen of the mission could go out without receiv- THE NATIVE CHRISTIANS. 119 ing a volley of stones. You may remember that Mr. Johnston was driven away from here some years ago by showers of stones. I have not had a single insult offered me since I came here. This is owing to one or both of two reasons, — my habit of daily dispensing medicines, and the advance of Protestant doctrines and influence. Prob- ably the latter is the chief reason. All classes, Mohamme- dans even, have united in petitioning me to remain here. Several hundred have signed a paper, and gray-headed men wept, when assured that I must go. I have sent an earnest appeal to the Prudential Committee of our Board to send them a physician as soon as possible. They also need more ministers. The whole region is awake. Whence shall come the men ? ” In the above mentioned appeal to the Prudential Com- mittee, dated Aintab, April 5, 1852, Dr. Lobdell thus writes : “ Surely American Christians have not a tithe of the devotion of converted Armenians, if they will refuse to listen to the Macedonian cry of these their oppressed brethren. I have no hesitation in saying, that at least three able-bodied men are required at this station constantly, and a fourth would be able to do great good by circulating among the adjacent towns and villages. The brethren here have already been obliged to diminish the number of their preaching services nearly one-half, though this is evident- ly much to the disadvantage of the work, which is still as encouraging as ever. I attended the services on the Sab- bath, with my pockets full of medicines, from which I had been prescribing on the way, and felt that it must require no ordinary amount of effort to preach acceptably to the six hundred anxious hearers squatted on their mats under that thatched roof. Very many of them have a much clearer idea of the great doctrines of grace, than the ma- jority of Christians in the United States, for they have studied the word of God more faithfully. The number of inquirers, the demand for earnest and logical preaching, 120 MEMOIR OF LOBBELL. the debilitating influence of a foreign climate, and the necessity of prescribing for the sick, are so great, that I do not wonder Mr. Schneider feels that the labor is too exhausting for his energies, nor that Mr. Crane declares that he shall be forced to leave Aintab, unless a reinforce- ment soon arrives. It is impossible for an enlightened Christian to be among them and not task himself severely. “It is to be feared the idea is prevalent in the United States, that alihost all the people here are Protestants, and the great majority genuine Christians. This is far from being the truth. The work is yet in its infancy. It is not so popular to be a Protestant, that persecution is not still to be endured. The old Armenians are bitter yet, and the Mohammedans of course are contemptuous and bitterly hostile. The city numbers about fifty thou- sand inhabitants; the Old Armenian Church ten thou- sand, the Protestant community less than one thousand, and the true followers of Christ less than one hundred. Is the work done ? ” After speaking of the necessity (growing out of the ed- ucation and peculiar circumstances of the people,) that the missionaries should be their medical and secular, not less thjm their religious advisers, he comes to their urgent need of a physician and their importunate solicitations that he would remain with them, and encloses a transla- tion of their earnest petition to this effect. In this peti- tion, the people acknowledge their unspeakable obliga- tions for the benefits, for which they were -already indebt- ed, under God, to the American missionaries. “No words of ours,” they say, “ can express the gratitude we feel.” They impute it to their own ingratitude and sinfulness, that God has removed Dr. Smith from their midst. But what shall they do? They have as little confidence in their old physicians as in their former religious teachers. And “ without a physician we shall die. W e all there- fore, being anxious to get relief, would request Dr. Lob- I PETITIONED TO REMAIN. 121 dell (not as a matter of obligation, but as a favor to us) to remain among us. And we would ask it still further, as we believe it would be for the benefit of the missionaries laboring in our midst. With a firm hope and confidence that the gospel will spread still more rapidly in this region, and feeling, moreover, the extreme need of two addition- al missionaries coming to this place, we would, with ex- ceeding gratitude and desire, receive this one , regarding him as already come.” In conclusion of his letter to Dr. Anderson, Dr. Lobdell says: “I was told that the four hundred and twenty names affixed to the above paper, were signed in a single evening. A member of the old community told Mr. Crane he would hand him two or three hundred names from that church, if he wished. I was told by one of the wealth- iest of the Armenians — himself not a Protestant — that if I would stay here, and practice for the poor, defending them from the rapacity of their native doctors, he would give a thousand piastres to the cause. He has already given two thousand towards the erection of the new Prot- estant church. ... I have been greatly interested in the work here, and I need not say, that I should feel quite disposed to listen to this petition of the people, if it was for me to decide. But I am designated to Mosul, and choose to go there, lest I should meet the fate of Jonah, or at least be said to build on another man’s foundation ” He adds, in a postscript : “ The brethren have just de- parted, after receiving a second time my answer in the negative. Stout men shed tears. I almost feel it my duty to stay. But I can not. Do send a man.” In 1853, an ordained physician, Dr. Pratt, was sent to Aintab. But scarcely had he reached the station, when Mr. and Mrs. Crane, worn out with labor and exposure to an uncongenial climate, were obliged to leave ; one of Dr. Pratt’s first letters home chronicles their departure from the city, followed by a great company of men, 11 122 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. women and children, “ whose sad faces told how they felt to have a spiritual guide depart to return no more.” “ It seems to me,” he says, “ that this missionary life is one of high joys and keen sorrows ; and one of the keenest sor- rows is to feel, that these poor people, who are earnest for instruction, must be left to their ignorance, because none can be found to come and teach them, or those who are here are called away.” W ell may he add, “We earnestly pray for an outpouring of the Spirit upon our seminaries and colleges, that our fields may thence be supplied with laborers” In 1856, Mr. Schneider w~as constrained to break away from his overwhelming cares and labors as pastor of the church, teacher of the theological class, and evangelist and overseer of the whole surrounding country, and come home to recruit his health and strength for future usefulness, leaving Mrs. Schneider (who had lately returned from the United States) as she hoped, to supply, in some measure, his unavoidable lack of service ; but, as the event proved, to die, after a few months, in the ab- sence of her husband, and in the midst of missionary ex- ertions, appropriate to her sex, and entitling her to a place in the history of missions among the “ honorable women” whose names are recorded in the Acts of the Apostles. Dr. Schneider has recently returned to the field of his former labors ; and Dr. Pratt has removed to Aleppo. The history of this station is full of interest — full, also, of instruction and reproof to the churches, whose scanty contributions of men and money have been honored as the means of its establishment. In the autumn of 1847, Dr. Smith arrived to take the place of Mr. Johnston, who had been stoned by the people and ordered away by the gov- ernment ; and being a physician, and the cholera begin- ning to prevail, he was enabled to hold his ground. In less than five years from that time the Protestant commu- nity had become what Dr. Lobdell found it, with a church of nearly a hundred members, and a congregation of six AN ArOSTOLIC CIIURCII. 123 hundred. And in the five years that have since elapsed, it lias advanced with a steady and uninterrupted progress, till it has doubled in numbers and resources, and more than doubled its influence in the city and the country around. The new house of worship, to which Dr. Lobdell alludes, was dedicated on the first Sabbath of the year, a building of stone, with alternate layers of white and black, eighty- two feet by fifty-nine, with a gallery on three sides, and capable of seating fifteen hundred persons, it was the first church of the Protestant community, built under a firman in the Turkish Empire. The church is even more remarka- ble for its graces than for its numbers. Five of its members have been trained in the little theological school under the instruction of Dr. Schneider, for the ministerial office, and it was his last delightful work before leaving the mission to ordain them as pastors over Protestant churches; while a score of preaching members, like the lay preachers of the first church at Jerusalem, go “ every where preach- ing the word.” And the whole church, and indeed, the whole Protestant community is, what every church ought to be, a Temperance Society, an Industrial Society, an Honesty and Veracity Society, a Society for promoting Christian knowledge and Christian morals; and a Society for propagating the pure Gospel. To be a Protestant at Aintab is, of course, to be, in fact and by the acknowledg- ment of Mohammedans and nominal Christians , a tem- perate, industrious, honest, truthful man ; in other words, so far forth a real Christian, and not only a Christian him- self, but so zealous to make others real Christians that he is a virtual missionary, whatever may be his occupation and wherever his lot may be cast. What would be thought in this country of four or five hundred persons attending an ordinary monthly concert, and large au- diences lingering about the preacher, hanging on his lips and almost compelling him to continue preaching till past midnight, and even till the morning dawn ! Truly apos- tolic scenes have been often witnessed there, and as one 124 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. reads the story in the letters, or hears it from the lips of the missionaries, he feels as if he were reading in the Acts of the Apostles, or hearing from the apostles themselves, the wonderful results which God has wrought through their instrumentality. Christianity has not lost its power. Were so-called Protestant Christian churches every where such, were they all such in our beloved land, the evangelization of the world would not long be delayed. In a letter to his father, Dr. Lobdell makes the power of the gospel, as displayed in the transformation and eleva- tion of the Protestants at Aintab — in their industry, tem- perance and frugality, as well as in their intelligence, piety and benevolence — the basis of the following argument and appeal in behalf of the divine origin of Christianity . “ To what can all this be attributed but to the spirit of Christ, which they have received within a few years past ? Oh, let us not refuse to see the proof, that the Bible is divine, that Jesus is the Redeemer of men, that both the Bible and the Spirit of God are necessary to the regener- ation and salvation of the world. My dear father, I would rather hear that you pray morning and night with your family with the earnestness of these poor Christians, than to know that you are making a fortune in gold to the neglect of your duty to God! I rejoice in your temporal prosperity , I pray that it may be still greater : but, after all, I do feel that this is comparatively unimportant, and I can say with the Apostle, whom Christ especially loved, ‘ I wish above all things, that thou mayest prosper, and be in health even as thy soul prosper eth? “ If I have spoken of trials, you must not think that either Lucy or myself would be willing to return to Amer- ica. We love the missionary Avork more, the more we see of its utility. It is a self-denying, but not an unprofitable calling. We are growing stronger in faith, and feel will- ing to trust to our hea\ r cnly Father our souls and our lives. Whatever be our lot, avc feel confident, that God approves our course, and are at rest.” CHAPTER VIII. Aintab to Mosul — View from the hill — Fences — Pollat Avedis — Fountain of Aleppo Water — Moslem Prayers — Sleeping in a Tent — Illustrations of Scripture — Crossing a River — Native Helper at Nisib — Crossing the Eu- phrates — Detention — Asdour — Bir — Enlightened Turkey — W oman — The Dragoman Zenope — Desert Plain — Abraham — Dipper — Orion — Khan of the Four Kings — Sabbath there — A Pastoral Country — Oorfa— Lurchiz Avedis — Abraham’s Cave — The Protestant Community — Appeal for a Mis- sionary — Severek — Birth-place of Judas Iscariot — The “ Black Mountain” — No Forests in Turkey — Thunder Storm — Late arrival at Diarbekr — Gates closed — Key obtained by Mr Dunmore — Diarbekr — Situation — His- tory — View from the hill across the River — Stoned by the Moslems — Prom- ising Missionary Station — Departure — Voyage down the Tigris — Boat of Skins — Scenery — Arrival at Mosul. A fatiguing journey, by land, of nine days still lay before our weary travelers ere they should reach the wa- ters of the Tigris at Diarbekr. But their route lay across Northern Mesopotamia ; two days would bring them to the banks of the Euphrates, two more to Oorfa, the “Ur of the Chaldees,” and the birth-place of Abraham; and every day, while it carried them over lands trodden by the feet of patriarchs, and still pastured by flocks and herds in primitive style, would bring them nearer, not only to their own future home, but to the cradle of human history. lienee though the days were to be long, and the fatigue and exposure great — though they expected to be, as they were, day after day, ten, twelve and thirteen hours in the saddle — yet they set out with more of hope and joy than of fear, on this part of their journey. The taJcht - trci-wan , which Mrs. Lobdell had relinquished for the sad- dle from Aleppo to Aintab, in the present state of her 11 * 126 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. health, was necessarily resumed ; and Dr. Lobdell himself was sometimes so overcome with fatigue, as to be obliged to seek in it temporary rest, Mrs. Lobdell meanwhile taking his place on the back of the mule. His journals and let- ters on this route are unusually full. One, who should read them thoroughly, would be quite familiar, not only with all the incidents of the journey, but with the phys- ical, social, and moral aspects of the country. The follow- ing extracts are chiefly such as illustrate the present con- dition of the country, the character and habits of the peo- ple, and the progress and prospects of the missionary enterprise. “ It cost us some tears to bid adieu to our kind mis- sionary and native friends in Aintab ; and as, on the 14th of April, we wound our way out of the city through a crowd of Turks who took some pleasure in insulting us. I felt that the triumph of the gospel is not complete, even in that favored field of missionary effort. Mr. Crane walked out with Lucy — an abominable procedure in the eyes of those who consider woman nothing but a slave ; Stephen carried little Mary ; I rode Mr. Schneider’s horse, having a red girdle about my loins, and a white turban round my tarboosh ; while a band of Protestants followed to do us honor. We found the takht-tra-wan at the east end of the town, near the extremity of the great ‘city of the dead ; ’ and after it was loaded and adieus were said, we proceeded on our way. Mr. Crane wished to go with us to Diarbekr ; but the demand for laborers is so great at his station, that he could only accompany us a short dis- tance. Pollat Avedis, a native preacher, a giant in theol- ogy and a dove in gentleness, with a young Armenian, also rode out with us. We galloped on, Zenope, my drag- oman, (a very agreeable graduate of the Bebek Seminary, who speaks English remarkably well and understands practical chemistry better than any college graduate I ever met), and Stephen keeping near the takht to protect its DEPARTURE FROM A IN TAB. 127 inmates from harm. We rode to the top of a hill south- east of the city, and had a fine view of the plain and the moving companies upon it. A village lay south of us on one of the roads to Aleppo, past which Dr. Bacon came. You may recollect he said, the prospect, as he came in sight of Aintab, was one of the finest he ever saw. It is a charac- teristic of these countries, that all the fine valleys are sur- rounded by barren hills, which throw a cheerless gloom over what would otherwise be some of the fairest fields of nature. W e busied ourselves in examining the geological character of the region, and in enjoying 4 the shadow of a great rock in a weary land,’ while the rest of the company went around the hill. We then rode down into the valley, taking a view of a narrow ravine, which the water had worn out from the lime-stone rock, and for myself casting a last glance upon the minarets and light-brown houses of Aintab. A stream of considerable size winds through the valley, turning a mill and watering the fine meadows and trees. Tall, slim poplars were planted close together, and formed quite a beautiful fence around the well-tilled and productive lots. Here, almost for the first time since I came into the country, I have seen the division of land by fences. Even here, the fence is raised for its intrinsic value ; for as soon as these trees get to be five or six inches in diameter, they are felled and employed as sleepers to support the mud roofs of houses. Peach and apricot trees were loaded with rich pink blossoms, and gave evidence of the budding propensities of spring. “ Pollat propounded various questions of a theological character, and we passed the time very agreeably in dis- cussing them. I was surprised at the acuteness and clearness of his mind. He was once a thorough infidel, but thought out his way into a pure Christianity. Such a man will not be weak-minded. He has endured great persecution ; but it has been a purifying furnace, and now his faith glows all the brighter for the trial. 128 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. “ After riding about two hours and a half, we came to a bubbling fountain, which, after running about seventy miles, supplies the people of Aleppo with water. I took a drink from it, and noticed near by a Moslem repeating his howlings and his prayers. Soon one of our train fol- lowed his example, keeping his eye turned towards the Prophet’s land, instead of heaven.” That night, they slept, for the first time, in a tent, “with fez and coat on,” and wrapt in thick quilts and blankets to protect them against the chilly night air. They met, of course, as travelers in the East always do, with fre- quent illustrations of Scriptural facts and images — such as shepherds leading their flocks, as the Lord leads his peo- ple; carrying the lambs in their bosom , as the Good Shepherd carries the young and the feeble of his fold ; and separating the sheep from the goats, as the Judge will separate the righteous from the wicked in the day of judgment ; women watering the flocks at the wells, like Rebekah and Rachel, and carrying water m their pitchers into the city ; men following the plow with an ox-goad ten feet long, pointed with iron, and as good as a lance or spear, wherewith Shamgar might well slay six hundred men; and roads, if roads they may be called, not en- closed by fences but running in an indefinite number of separate tracks through the plowed fields, so that the “ sower as he went forth to sow,” could not but scatter more or less of his seed on these beaten and barren tracks. “At 1 P. M. Ave crossed a large river by a roof-like bridge — a work indicative of ancient enterprise. A wo- man was carring two kids in her bosom across the bridge, and the mules stood hesitating whether to step upon it, or stem the flood. Some chose one way, some the other. It was rather interesting to see our bundles of bedding dipped in the stream! We had them covered with oiled- cloth and put in a painted bag, so as to endure the wind and weather.” TIIE EUPHRATES. m “ Our native brother, who is trying to teach the in- habitants of Nisib the truth of the gospel, came out to see us, and accompanied us some distance. It is gratify- ing to see how anxious our native brethren are to make known the riches of the gospel to their countrymen. They ask only the means of living, and they will go any- where to preach the word. At first, they were called vagabonds, and were often imprisoned as such ; but now that they go with the tools of their trade, or as mer- chants, into the towns about Aintab and even through all Asia Minor, they have a right to civil protection. They generally take a room in a khan, and work, sell, talk, and pray. Thus the truth spreads. Paul worked as a tent- maker, and his humble imitators emulate his invaluable example. Nisib presents quite a neat exterior, but it is said to bear marks of poverty and shame within. It has mosks enough to make it a little pandemonium.” They reached the western bank of the Euphrates, over against Bir, (or Bir-i-Jik,) just as the last ark for the day was ready to start for the other side. “ It could take nothing but our persons ; and preferring to sleep in our tent, rather than separate from our baggage, we concluded to show our tezkerehs (passports,) and pitch near the lazaretto. Not a particle of food could be got but that we carried with us, and before we could get that in an eatable condition, it commenced raining, and the clouds threw quite a shadow over the bright expectations I had cherished about the paradisiacal Euphrates. We had rode eleven hours that day, and the last three under a burning sun, which not even my white-covered umbrella and huge turban could resist. “16th. We were thankful for a pleasant sleep, and resigned to the rains of the morning. But when we learned that no boats would be over that forenoon, we were a little disquieted. “ I gathered some pebbles from the sacred stream, and 130 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. got well wet in the operation. I hope you will prize them for the difficulty I had in collecting them, if for no other reason. Much to my surprise I found all my boxes from Aleppo had been undergoing a ten days’ quarantine here. Our iron bedstead is left behind. Well, we can sleep on the floor for a while, if need be. That is a small inconvenience in this country. “ If I had not felt that the delay was not owing to .my own negligence, I should have been ill at ease, for it was a fine day to travel, and I knew the hot season would not tarry for us. But I cast a thought towards Con- necticut, and succeeded in making Lucy with myself feel that we were doing acceptable service even by delay. I had time to draw Bir, which lies like another Gibraltar, frowning over the waters. “ About three P. M. we were greeted with the sight of twelve boats drawn by a hundred nearly naked men — the boats some twenty-five feet long, with flat bow, sharp stern, and an immense rudder, and the men ten or a dozen to each boat to draw it up the stream, and then two to see that it is pushed into the current and steered slant- ingly down to the landing-place ; it was the most original method of navigation I had yet seen. A number of camels had just arrived, and we were obliged to hurry up our muleteers to get in advance of them. Just as we were ready to embark, we were agreeably surprised to see another native brother by the name of Asdour, who had taken quarters at a khan on the other side, that he might preach the pure gospel to the inhabitants of Bir. He offered the boatmen a present if they would take our party over first. They consented, though it ap- peared by their remarks about their happy disappoint- ment when he gave them ten piastres, that they had little confidence in his truthfulness. Their surprise was over when they learned that he was a Protestant — another name for a temperate, virtuous, and honorable man. A NATIVE TEACHER. 131 “We of course found no distinction between cabin and deck passengers ; travelers, muleteers, boatmen, horses and mules were huddled confusedly together. But the sail was short. A great crowd stood around the custom-house, as we came to land, and it was with some difficulty Lucy reached the takht. She was suddenly shut up there, as it was dangerous for her to go through the streets unveiled and walking by the side of a man! This is that en- lightened Turkey, of which you hear so much of late. “ Our baggage was taken to a cave, and we went to Asdour’s room in the khan ; where, after putting up our beds, and then taking a walk about the town, our brother and host prayed with us in Turkish, and he, our drago- man, and ourselves, lay down and slept, all within the compass of one small room. “ In the morning, our brother Asdour accompanied us on foot about two miles, anxious to do us honor, and to receive words of encouragement in his work. He has yet had but little success in convincing the people of the truth. But one’s faith must not waver, if he does see but little fruit. The plant he fosters and the seed he sows may nourish another generation and bring forth c an hundred fold.’ “We at length separated. I took a last view of the city and the gardens, and felt that I should probably see the Euphrates no more. There were no willows, or I should have imitated the captives of Babylon, and sat down to weep over the strange desolation before me. “ A troop of men, women and children passed us on their way to Aleppo. They presented a curious spectacle, the women wearing immense turbans, and carrying their children before them on little donkeys, while the men on horses, alone, gave them neither sympathy nor aid. Woman here has no advocate. “ Pretty soon we saw a man plowing with a team com- posed of a donkey and a steer. I smiled, whereupon our 132 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. young guards informed the company, that this man was very poor, and therefore obliged to harness together these animals of so different a nature. I took occasion to dilate to Zenope on the glories of America. He is a man of fine talents, and came to Aintab to teach, though he knew his compensation was to be but ten dollars a month, and though he had a prospect of rising to affluence, if he would engage in a selfish pursuit of gain. He chose to be poor, that he might be Christ-like. Glorious choioe for thee, my brother ! May God give thee c a crown of life.’ I know no young man in America, of finer talents or a better heart. And when he told me his wages just enabled him to pay his board and get his clothing, and that he was unable to purchase books, I was affected to tears ! He reads English, and I have rejoiced to give him some leaves of knowledge. It is well that treasure can be laid up in heaven. “I noticed several familiar flowers as we rode along, but very many unknown ones. Every thing here wears a new aspect. “ A thunder storm obliged us to put on our rubber coats, and it was sunset when it cleared away. On and on we rode over an immense plain, covered with grass and sand. I had time to think of the friends across the sea, and muse ujion the wanderings of the patriarchs. It was a consola- tion to believe that Abraham once drove his flocks across that wide expanse. We saw only a few clusters of mud- huts, looking like stacks of hay, before darkness rendered observation impossible. One by one the stars came out, and I was glad to see the Dipper hanging round the pole, just as I used to see it in my native land. Orion, too, with his shining zone, assured me that I was still on terra firma . I trust I was accepted in my renewed consecra- tion and prayers to God. The desert plain was like a boundless ocean then ; it symbolized infinity. I could A SABBATII IN MESOPOTAMIA. 133 discern the horizon, and the guard ahead ; but little more. That was a silent evening — a time for holy thought. I feared to go far from the takht-tra-wan , and was glad to sec that Lucy and Mary were sleeping in it, unconscious of the weariness that was settling down heavily upon me, after twelve hours’ riding on horseback. “ AV e dismounted at nine P. M. at the gate of the great Khan, three hundred feet square, built by four kings, as a meritorious deed whereby to purchase heaven, and hence known and noted through all these parts as the Charmelek Khan . Ko human being lives there. It is simply a place to accommodate mules and muleteers on their way across the country. W e could not endure the dust and noise and filth of the building, and, having ascertained that there was no alternative, we iJitched our tent in the inner court, and having taken tea, lay down to rest just as my watch ticked the hour of midnight.” The next day was the Sabbath; and they rested accord- ing to the commandment. Kear by was a well with sixty steps down to the water. Opposite was a mosk, with the unusual number of six minarets. In the neighbor- hood, several hundred mud stacks , or holloio cones , were arranged into a sort of city, already deserted for the sum- mer — they were the winter abode of wandering Arabs. All around spread those plains of Mesopotamia, on which Abraham had pastured his flocks, and where — perhaps, on the Sabbath — the God of glory appeared to him, and called him to the promised land. And now one of his promised seed, from a continent then unknown, gathers his little family and his few servants about him, reads the story of the patriarchs in the seventh chapter of the Acts, comments upon it, doubtless with some reference to his own call and wanderings, and then lifts up his heart in prayer to the God of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, not for himself only, but for the land from which the Father of 12 134 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. the Faithful went out, and which his believing children would now reclaim for a spiritual inheritance. The next day, (Monday, April 19,) they rose at three in the morning, and rode on, the greater part of the day, through a singularly romantic country, whose wells and cisterns and herds and flocks, sometimes very large, with their male and female keepers, constantly reminded them of the patriarchal age, and whose whole aspect convinced them, that this had ever been — as it is represented to have been in that oldest and truest of ancient histories, the book of Genesis • — a pastoral land. “ At eleven o’clock, twelve men on fine steeds, and armed to the teeth, appeared at a turn on the road, and, for a moment, my ears stood straight, and even my long hair began to rise. How it gratified us to learn that they were government officials. After about a month, as we learned from our guards, it will be very dangerous to pass along that route. Indeed, none who understand the dan- ger, will travel it then. The peasants will retire from the territory as soon as the heat begins to dry up the verdure, and then the Aneezees will take possession. They are fero- cious, and spare nobody that fails into their power. Two years ago, the Mutsellim (local governor) of Bir was stripped right there, and sent on his way quite empty and naked. “ At length, the remains of an old Roman road assured us that we were approaching the famed Edessa .* In one place the rock was excavated for the road, and the steep descent towards the northeast was rendered quite passa- ble by art. The sun’s rays, reflected from the white rocks, were quite annoying ; but we were consoled by looking down upon the fertile jflain of Oorfa a few miles beyond. “ At two P. M., the tombs north of the town came in sight, and the first view of the city was cheerless ; I was * Oorfa, the Ur of the Chaldees, is supposed to have heen the Edessa of the Romans. UR OF THE CHALDEES. 135 glad to see a company of the people of Oorfa seated at the mouth of the caves in the suburbs, and a few urchins play- ing ball. This indicated some degree of civilization. We soon reached the road, which, by turning south, conducted to the city. Zenope rode ahead to find us lodgings, and. our train waited in the hot sun about an hour for his return. Our Protestant brother, Lurchiz Avedis, invited us to spend the night with him, and we proceeded to fol- low him. I was urged to take off my white 4 California ’ and put on a tarboosh, as Jdie fanaticism of the natives in that quarter is proverbial. I rode into the city, carrying Mary, while Lucy walked with Zenope. It would not do for her to ride. We entered the south-west gate, and my eye most unexpectedly fell upon a beautiful grove, a crys- tal stream, and many marks of enterprise. A high castle was on the right, and two tall Corinthian columns stood upon its summit, where a certain Nimrod is fabled to have suspended malefactors ! “The bazaars appeared to furnish all the necessaries of life — a consideration of much importance in reference to its occupation by missionaries from America. The cus- tom house is quite a respectable building. W e noticed, also, a large square tower, and a mosk formerly occu- pied as a Christian Church. But the chief object of inter- est in Oorfa is Abraham’s Cave. There is no good reason to doubt that the patriarch was born very near it. A mosk has been erected over the spring that bubbles in the cave, of whose clear, cool water I had a taste, and which supplies sacred water for the sacred fish, that are domesticated in the stream below. It was amusing to see these fish, which no one is allowed to catch, jump over each other, as we threw a few crumbs into the water. “ Our Protestant brethren were alike ready to do us service, and to ask us questions. They requested my interference in some ecclesiastical difficulties, and I went 136 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. with them to the Pasha to secure the official acknowl- edgment of one of their number, as their legal head. They wanted me to address them as they gathered in a circle round me after tea, which I did through Zenope. I had quite a discussion with an Armenian of the Old Church, and hope I was instrumental in animating the faith of the persecuted ones.” The following extract from a letter to Dr, Anderson will present this interesting place and people in their mis- sionary aspect : “We spent a vpry pleasant night in Oorfa. The late head of the Armenian community was formally acknowledged by the Pasha, when we came before him, as the head of the Protestants. The Pasha had not before heard of their firman, a sufficient commentary on the mode of legislation, and the amount of general infor- mation in the Turkish Empire. I addressed fifteen of the brethren through an interpreter, and commended them to God — sheep with only Christ as Shepherd. It was deeply affecting to see the tears fall from 4 eyes unused to weep,’ as we separated the next morning. A few of them accom- panied us some miles from the city, and besought me to use my influence to procure them an American mission- ary. What can I do ? Few places in this part of the empire have so many attractions as Oorfa. It is beauti- fully situated on the west side of a fertile plain ; and, though it is Edessa fallen, it retains many marks of its an- cient greatness. Abundant reasons offer for its imme- diate occupation. I drank from the spring in the cave, where Abraham is said to have been born, and should have been glad to end my wanderings there. In the name of the persecuted Protestants of Oorfa, I beg you to send them a missionary.” Persecution afterwards scattered this little flock, and drove most of them to Aintab. But they have returned, and now rejoice in the presence of 44 an American Mission- ary,” who is not only the spiritual guide of the Protestant SEVERER. 137 community, but labors in hope that the little leaven will yet leaven the thirty thousand inhabitants of Oorfa, and the thousands more who dwell in the surrounding Pashalic. Mr. Nutting, formerly of Aintab, now enjoys the high privilege of preaching and teaching, where God “ preached before the gospel to Abraham,” and where one of the most famous of the theological schools of the early Chris- tian Church trained up ministers and missionaries for all the East. We must hurry over the remaining journey of four days from Oorfa to Diarbekr. The only important place is Severek, which lies half way between, and where the second night after leaving Oorfa, they pitched their tent on a fine grass plot without the city, “ A number of officials called on us ; and soon after my return from a visit to the bazaars, the Mutsellim, or governor of the place, invited us to dine with him. This we declined as politely as possible, knowing that the less one has to do with such persons, the better. The higher in office a man rises in these parts, as a general rule, the deeper does he plunge in iniquity. The town is built of dark volcanic stone, and the rough pavements are very inconvenient for foot passengers. The streets are, of course, narrow and dirty. We purchased a few nuts and raisins, and were just pass- ing outside of the Avail near the castle-crowned hill, Avhen Ave Avere credibly informed, that in a certain garden of the city, were to be seen some memorials of Judas Iscariot , that SeA r erek Avas his birth-place, that he Avent to Jerusalem, learned something about Christ and his neAV doctrines, returned, and by mistake married his mother in the place iioav occupied by this garden, dis- covered his error, Avent back to Jerusalem, betrayed Christ and hung himself! Not having any particular admiration for his character, I did not feel very anxious to pay my respects to his memory. The Avretched ap- pearance of the toAvn might perhaps lend some plausibility 12 * 188 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. to the belief that it was cursed for being the scene of his nativity.” The next morning they were up to breakfast before two, and on their way soon after four, Dr. Lobdell leading the van through the rocks and mud with a lantern. Their object was twofold, to get on as far as possible before the sun was up with a burning heat, and also to reach the summit of the Karccjah Dagh or Black Mountain before night-fall. “ This Karajah Dagh is the terror of all trav- elers in Mesopotamia. We were forced to make quite an acute angle to reach a convenient pass. We hoped we were late enough in the season to cross it comfortably. It is a region of extinct volcanic fires, every rock told its Plutonic history, lizards and poor Koords diversified the scenery. At eleven A. M. we descended a hill and dined by a rippling stream. When the proper time arrived to start again, I could not rouse the muleteers, so I .took Mary on my horse, and rode ahead. The appearance of a hundred horsemen defiling through the pass, and guard- ing as many unarmed and handcuffed convicts, engrossed their attention and detained them still longer, but they at length got started. Then began the mud ; and the clouds threatened rain. W e wished to get near the summit of the mountain if possible. The heat of the sun contended with the cold air of the mountain for supremacy. , W e suffered from both. The rain troubled us a little, and we feared the consequences. The grass was the finest we had seen. At three P. M. we came to a fine camping ground occupied by a troup of mules Avith loads of soap. We had previously met a string of ninety camels, each having two huge bags of gall nuts on their way to Aleppo. Several of them were hairless. Sometimes the owners pull off the hair that it may grow out uniform ; but I be- lieve, they generally shed it every year. It was hardly possible for our taJcht to get through the mud. A few weeks earlier, it could not have been got over the moun- KARAJAII DAG II. 139 tain. The animals, even now, would often sink half buried in the mud. About sunset we came to a bifurcation in the path — one track leading to a little village some three miles off our course, the other going straight over the mountain. We took the direct route, and encamped near a ruined Khan. Before our tent was up, the rain came in torrents. We pinned up the folds of the tent, and by means of stakes braced it against the wind, and made ar- rangements for all our party to get within. The poor muleteers deserved no better fate than to sleep exposed to the wind and weather. A small encampment was near, but we felt that we were alone. My thoughts were home- ward and heavenward. I slept soundly, and the morning found us in a comfortable state to resume our journey. “ The ground was black, and hence the name of the mountain. The air was cold, the snow lay around us, and we were an hour reaching the table-land on the summit. This was crowned with oaks, that looked like apple-trees, and I thought of the storm-swept hills of America. There are no forests in Turkey. Trees are a luxury that my countrymen little prize, because they do not know their loss. “We crossed the little table-land, and having ascended a very difficult steep, soon came in sight of the plain and the clouds through which the Tigris was winding. I never saw more fleecy vapors ; they shut out of sight the city of our destination, but portended a cool journey through the day. Down we went. The descent was very difficult — mules fell now and then — but it was pleasant. We took strong puffs of the cool air, thinking that we were soon to feel the grateful influence of a mountain atmosphere no more. We dined at the base of the mountain.” There again the tardiness of the muleteers delayed them a long time, in consequence of which they were ex- posed to a fearful thunder-storm, and were in imminent 140 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. danger of being shut out of the city over night. Drenched and cold, Dr. Lobdell put spurs to his horse, and rode on to overtake the advance guard, consisting of the chief muleteer and a native brother who was traveling with them, and then to the gate of the city to make arrange- ments for the reception of the whole party. “ I found that plain very long. After I had overtaken Aposh, the city seemed to be an hour distant ; I found it was two. The walls loomed up black and grand, and the turrets and minarets, surmounted with floating clouds, gave promise of no ordinary city We went up quite an ascent — but it was still far, very far, I thought, to the city. The sun was about to go down — we had scarcely seen it all day — when we rode past the Moslem burying-ground, and approached the massive gate that let us into the well- walled city. We hurried to Mr. Dunmore’s house, and before I could go in, he told me the gates would shut out Lucy, if we did not hurry back at once. W e hurried back, but they were already bolted. Mr. Dunmore started for the military Pasha’s house to see if he could get the key. I was almost pulled from my horse by a soldier, while waiting alone.* I was wet, and felt almost certain Lucy would have to stay out in the damp, chilly air all night. I thought of the sinners who find the gate of the celes- tial city closed. I could only pray ; my anxiety kept me from suffering by the dampness and cold. At length I heard a noise at the outer gate. I called, and got a re- sponse from Zenope. I told the jDarty to wait there ; and fortunately Mr. Dunmore soon arrived with the key. He told me he had got it only after much difficulty, and even then by stating I was an English Hakeem, or physician. I need not say I was rejoiced to see our party, funeral- * So the first American missionaries, who entered Damascus, were obliged to dismount. Koords — heathen — may ride through the streets, but not Christian dogs. Such is Moslem hatred of Christianity, where it can manifest itself with- out fear or restraint. DIARBEKR. 141 like, move through the streets of Diarbekr. I heeded not the streams that poured from the roofs into the narrow streets. We had a hearty welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Dunmore, and having changed our clothes, and taken tea, it was sweet to retire to our quiet rest beneath the roof of a countryman and Christian brother.” Diarbekr, Mosul and Baghdad are the three principal cities on the Tigris, each a walled town of about forty thousand inhabitants, and situated at intervals of nearly three hundred miles from each other ; the first toward the source of the river, the last some two hundred miles from its mouth, and the other about midway between them. Diarbekr and Baghdad are situated at points where the Tigris and the Euphrates approach most nearly together, and Mosul at a point where the two rivers are most widely separated. Diarbekr stands near a bend in the Tigris, where it approaches nearest to, or rather is least distant from, the Mediterranean. It is for this reason chiefly, that the missionaries and other travelers to Mosul take a course so much to the north of the direct route; they strike for the nearest point on the Tigris, and then it is comparatively easy to float down the river in its first easterly, and then southerly, course. This general situation has doubtless conspired with the natural advantages of its immediate site — the sweep of the river by which it is encircled, and the noble plain which spreads around it — to make it, what it has been from time immemorial, an important city. It is the Amida of the Romans ; its massive lava walls, of surpassing height and solidity, crowned with seventy-two towers, were built by the Emperor Constantius ; and its great mosk, magnificent even in its ruins, was reared for a church, and after being burned, rebuilt by order of his imperial successors. It once contained tv-o hundred thousand in- habitants. As one of the two stations of the Assyrian mission, it was an object of special interest to Dr. Lob- 142 MEMOIR OE LOBDELL. dell ; and, during a stay of ten days, he had ample oppor- tunity to look about the city, as well as to become acquainted with the character of the inhabitants. It was on the 23d of April that he arrived. On the 24th, he “ walked about the town, examined the venerable walls, and the gardens and groves beyond ; went through the bazaars ; was saluted with the cry of c Prote ! Prote /’ called to see the sick wife of Hohannes, formerly a fierce | persecutor, but now himself a persecuted man ; examined several diseased women and children ; pitied the native quacks, who terribly lacerate for supposed diseases ; and went home with the conviction that the town is a ren- dezvous for fanatics, scamps and Koords, and a miserable home for the Jacobites, Chaldeans and Armenians, who dwell within its massive walls.” “ The 25th was Sunday. The Protestants met at sunrise to pray and read. At eleven A.M. was preaching, as also at four P. M. I addressed them in the afternoon through Zenope, after which a young persecuted brother preached. Though not a member of the church, he seemed to speak from the fullness of his soul, of the power of the gospel ” The ensuing week he spent m visiting the sick, con- versing with the native Christians, surveying the antiqui- ties, the paved road, the bridge of ten arches, and the old Roman walls, and exploring the city and the sur- rounding country. The view of the city, with its minarets and domes and walls and bastions, from a hill across the Tigris — in Koordistan — answered to his youthful im- agination of an Oriental city, rising like a rocky citadel out of the broad plain — like a turreted and castle-crowned island out of a sea of tropical verdure — girt around by a magnificent sweep of the Tigris, enclosed by rugged hills and snow-clad mountains, which, though distant, seemed like Nature’s own impregnable fortifications thrown around it; and all this glittering and flashing in the cjpud- less and dazzling sunshine of the Orient. But as he re- DIARBEKR. 143 turned through the neglected burial grounds which lie outside of the gates of this, like other Mohammedan cities, and looked on the falling and decaying monuments, and saw the very walls of the city crumbling and dis- solving, he was led to reflect on the perishable nature of all human works. “ I could not help asking myself how long it will be be- fore not a single monument now standing over the dead in America will bear any memorial of the dust beneath. There is no immortality but that of thought and right- eousness. The thinker lives forever; and so does the work and memory of the benevolent and good. Let me be a Henry Martyn rather than a Napoleon or Alexander.” A letter to Dr. Anderson, written from Mosul, will sup- ply all that need be added of Dr. Lobdell’s personal expe- rience at Diarbekr, as well as his observations of the missionary work there : — “As I remained there about ten days, I had an opportunity to see the nature and extent of the work in that place. It is deep, wide-spread, encouraging ; indeed, it is more so than in any place I have yet seen in the East, with the single exception of Aintab. The cleanliness and enterprise of the Protestants are very noticeable. The audience that gathers to hear the native helpers from Aintab, varies from sixty to ninety. It was with great pleasure I spoke to them, through an interpreter, of the instrumentality of gospel truth in fitting souls for heaven. The very novelty of the circumstances increased the interest. The women looked through a window from an upper room ; and the men, seated in Oriental style upon the straw-woven mats, seemed anxious to catch every thought. They have suffered severe persecution, but it has done more for the cause than indifference would. That for which a man will give up friends and a livelihood, which will enable him to meet the jeers and blows of enemies with a joy like the martyrs, must have a divine significance and power. 144 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. It will excite inquiry and a desire for conformity to the claims of truth. The brethren in Diarbekr have been sub- jected to great trials, of which it is not my purpose or province to speak. “ A few circumstances of a personal nature may be worthy of statement. I never went into the streets with- out being saluted with the cry of 6 Prote,’ and seldom without receiving a shower of missiles. Several times, while walking for exercise with Mr. Dunmore, on the roof of his house, I was hit by stones flung from the roofs of adjacent buildings. The women screeched and threw dirt ; the boys hurled stones and brick-bats ; while the husbands and fathers stood by cheering them on in their diabolical work. The Saturday before I left, we happened to be walking through the open court of a mosk, and stopped to look at the tall Corinthian columns of marble raised around it by ancient Christian hands. A crowd of forty or fifty gathered round us, and though all classes of the citizens pass daily through the court, we were foreign- ers and Protestants, and it was a good time for the Moslems to wreak their vengeance. They at first attacked me, but when they saw I would offer no resistance, they fell upon Mr. Dunmore ; he tried to parry their blows with his cane, but was seized by the throat, and I feared he would be strangled. It would have been madness for me to rush to his assistance ; I tried to pass quietly away, but a part of them turned upon me, seized and hurled away my hat, and, though now in the open street, we both felt that it was quite uncertain whether we should escape alive. They at length began to throw stones ; one of two pounds’ weight hit my side, and I picked it up as a witness against the offenders. The missiles came so thick, and the mob was so fierce, that we were obliged to run with all our might. We found temporary safety in the bazaars, and soon after effected our escape to Mr. Dunmore’s house. We were thankful for deliverance RAPT OF SKINS. 145 from such a death, but we deemed it expedient to make a complaint to the Pasha ; we were refused redress, and were even told by the Pasha that he did not believe a word we said ! Such is justice and toleration in Diarbekr. We left him, not doubting that our representation of the facts to the American Embassador at Constantinople will secure his removal. The Moslems even call him a beast. Both Mr. Rassam, of Mosul, and Colonel Rawlinson, of Baghdad, have written to Sir Stratford Canning to pro- cure the appointment of an English Consul to reside there. “ It is to be hoped you will send Mr. Dunmore an asso- ciate soon ; the labor and excitement at his station are too great for the powers of one man, especially while unfamil- iar with the language. A judicious adviser would be able to render brother Dunmore much assistance, even though fresh from America. Both Mr. Williams and myself are anxious you should not long allow him to endure the trial alone. I am confident that, when a favorably disposed Pasha and a broad-minded assistant missionary reach Diarbekr, the station will assume an interest inferior to few under the care of the Board.” Persecution continued to rage at Diarbekr for years, but the progress of the church and the Protestant community there has fully justified the expectations of Dr. Lobdell. After many vexatious delays, occasioned chiefly by the dishonesty of the Moslems, who at first constructed their raft of rotten skins, and, when compelled to re-construct, still left it without any suitable floors — after all these dif- ficulties had been adjusted by repeated visits to the river, in which they became so familiar with Moslem insult and abuse that it excited only thankfulness for their own per- secutions, and prayer for the forgiveness of their enemies — all was at length in readiness for their departure. “ Besides Mr Dunmore, a number of our native brethren accompanied us to the river, and among them three who 13 146 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. had just come to the city from a distant village to procure some one to teach them true Christianity. It is deeply affecting to see the interest which many in this country are now manifesting in the study of the Bible, particularly in regard to the errors of the Armenian, Jacobite, and Syrian churches. It is a just occasion of sorrow that the stations of our Missionary Board are unable to attend to the wants of all the villages around them ” The raft, which had been constructed expressly for this voyage, and was to be taken to pieces as soon as it reached its destination, consisted of a hundred and twenty goat skins, inflated, tied side by side and end to end to a rec- tangular frame-work of large poles, and overlaid by succes- sive layers of smaller ones, and these last, for the special accommodation of Frank voyagers, were covered with a plank floor. About one half of the space was occupied by their tent, which, being permanently pitched, formed an awning over their heads, and a separate cabin for their own accommodation. “By placing a row of trunks, a couple of chairs, and a few boxes around our beds, we have quite a cozy apartment. To be sure, the chairs are mounted upon the trunks, and we are obliged to sit on the beds, but what of that ? It is a palace worthy of a king. The bow, or part which usually goes forward, is inhabited by two Koords, who ply a couple of rough oars, to the extremity of which are fastened a dozen slats of wood at right angles, while the center rests and turns round upon a pivot on a platform, to which they are attached by a split in the oar some eighteen inches in length ! Stephen, two Protestant Syrians, and the wife and two children of one of them, with their goods, occupy the remainder of the raft. They are going to reside in Mosul. I hired the whole heleh , and they pay a small part of the expense. One of them has been in the army, and he is not afraid of all the Arabs in the land. He has two or three long pistols, a dagger and a sword, and it VOYAGE DOWN TIIE TIGKIS. 147 would require a pretty stout heart to meet him, standing, as he does, withal, nearly six and a half feet high ; he is a resolute-looking man, and yet he is a mild fellow in a calm, and also a good Protestant brother. He left his family at Diarbekr. His brother, a pleasant man, was in considera- ble trouble before he started, for the Pasha would not give his wife a tezkereh — a passport or permit to leave the city. Fortunately for him, his wife was a woman of true courage ; she came to Mrs. Dunmore, and wanted to give her the eldest child, and declared she would go without permission. She had a plausible, legal excuse, since she was a native of Mosul. It is the policy of the Pashas, particularly in this part of Turkey, to be careful about losing the inhab- itants, and consequently some part of the taxes, of their pashalics. I am very sure that few persons, of any enter- prise or probity, would remain long in Diarbekr, if they could get permission to emigrate. Not long since nearly a hundred Protestants went to the Pasha, in a body, and told him that they wished to go to a place where they might have protection. They were refused permission. Their only hope of a redress of grievances lies in the ap- pointment of a new Pasha, or of an English Consul to reside there.” All are now “ aboard,” — not excepting the heroine who had to go without a passport ; — a tender and affectionate leave is taken of the resident missionary and the perse- cuted native brethren and sisters ; the raft is unmoored and pulled into the swift-flowing stream ; they drift through one of the arches of the great Saracenic bridge, and away they glide down the arrowy Tigris. We can not follow them from day to day, as they float down the swollen flood of this Oriental Tiber — this greater Pactolus, “ yel- low not with gold but with mud,” now between banks enameled with flowers of every hue, now by sand-banks alive with swallows, and now past bluffs and highlands rivaling in grandeur those of the Hudson ; we can not 148 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. render the Koordish songs with which they were enter- tained by the boatmen, or paint the soft moonlight, or the beautiful sunrise, with which their eyes were delighted ; still less daguerreotype the moving panorama of mounds and meadows, of mud villages and rock-hewn caves, of men and beasts and inanimate things, which Dr. Lob- dell’s quick eye observed and his ready hand jotted down in notes too brief to be fully understood by any one but himself, but which, had not his too busy and short life forbidden, he would, some time, have expanded into a full and life-like picture of the Arrowy River,* and the country through which it flows. “We were only four days and a half in going down, and we stopped every night on the river’s bank to sleep. W e had some fears for our safety ; but God mercifully watched over us. The fierce Shammar tribe of Arabs, we have since learned, were within a short distance of us the day before we reached Mosul ; but we escaped their bloody hands. The Arabs, who did swim out upon their skins, and the Koords — armed to the teeth upon the shore — were unable to touch us, as the river was unusually high and alike swift. We had just fear enough to make the trip interesting. I do not remember ever having enjoyed four successive days so much as I did those on the river. The scenery is grand, equaling that of the far-famed Hudson. It might not wear as well, but it is unique and Avonderful. “ I need hardly say, that we received a hearty welcome from Mr. Williams and his family, as well as from the native brethren. Mr. Marsh had been absent about three months. They seemed to mourn his absence, and glad to welcome me and my medicines as a partial substitute. Thus ended my long journey. I hope that I have not come hither in vain. Pray that my faith may not waver, * Such is the meaning of the names hy which the river is known in the sev- eral languages of the East. ARRIVAL AT MOSUL. 149 find hope with me, that the clouds, now hanging over the Christians of Mosul, may soon pass away. God grant that neither ill health nor ill success may ever force me to lay my bones in America. I love my country ; but I love the heathen and the deluded followers of the Fathers more. I wish that hundreds of my young Christian breth- ren would remember these souls, dead and buried in tres- passes and sins, and come to preach to them the Resur- rection and the Life.” 13 * CHAPTER IX. Mosul —Situation — Description — Site of Nineveh — Nebbi Yoonus, Nimrood, &c. — Fulfillment of Prophecy — Al-Kosh, and Nahum the El-Koshite — River Chebar, and Ezekiel — Babylon — Ezekiel’s Tomb — Tomb of Daniel — Shu- shan the Palace — Heaps of Ruins — The inhabitants a sadder ruin — Ruined Churches — The Nestorians — The Jacobites — The Armenians — All admit the authority of the Scriptures — Inroads of the Papists — Providential Pre- paration for the Missionaries — The Malabar Priest — The mill-wright Micha — Trials of the early Missionaries — Death of Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell, Mr. Hinsdale, Mrs. Laurie, and Dr. Grant — Puseyite influence — Mr. Badger — Temporary Suspension of the Mission — Arrival of Mr. Marsh — Of Mr. and Mrs. Williams. Mosul is perhaps a modified form of Mespila — the name by which Xenophon knew the site of ancient Nine- veh. The city of Mosul is on the west side of the Tigris, some five hundred miles from its mouth, and nearly as many from its source. The dark and massive walls, the substantial stone houses with vaulted and terraced roofs, the handsome mosks, cafes, khans, and bazaars, bear a favorable comparison with other Oriental cities ; but, like almost every other city of Turkey or Persia, and as the natural consequence of the government and the religion, Mosul is in a declining state, its best buildings crumbling into ruins, the population reduced to half its former num- ber, two-thirds of the space unoccupied with houses, and more than two-thirds without inhabitants. Trade and manufactures are in a like depressed condition, the former being confined chiefly to the carrying trade on the river, and the latter consisting of little besides leather and cotton, particularly muslins , which are said to have derived their name from Mosul. The river, which is three hundred feet wide and fifty feet* deep at the narrowest .point, in a high flood spreads out to a mile in width, thus going over SITE OF ANCIENT NINEVEH. 151 its banks, and inundating more or less of the surrounding country. It is ordinarily crossed by a bridge of boats, but when the water is high, this lies useless by the west- ern bank, and they pass over by a ferry. The abutments of a massive stone bridge still remain, which, like the walls of Mosul itself, was built of materials taken from the ruins of Nineveh. Opposite Mosul, about three-fourths of a mile from the river, is a small village, Nunia , which bears up the name of ancient Nineveh. A mound here, crowned by a mosk-covered tomb, is called Nebbi Yoonus, and is vene- rated alike by Mohammedans, Jews, and Christians, as the tomb of the prophet Jonah. Another, of still larger dimensions, and approaching two hundred feet in height at the highest part, rises out of the plain a short distance north ; it has become familiar to those interested in As- syrian antiquities under the name of Koyunjik. Similar mounds, or hills, cover the plain in every direction. A space about four miles in circuit is surrounded by a ditch and a moss-grown wall, about twenty feet high, — a j^art, doubtless, of the walls of Nineveh. Six hours below Mosul, on the east bank of the river, a still more remarkable mound, or pyramid, is found, with traces of a wall enclosing a circuit of four or five miles. This, from the mighty hunter of the primitive age, bears the name of Nimrood, and is well known to all who have seen Assyrian sculptures in the United States, as the source from which those sculptures came. Koyunjik and Nim- rood, together with Karamless and Khorsabad, similar and scarcely less interesting mounds, mark the corners of a parallelogram, or trapezium, some sixty miles in circuit, which was probably once' covered with the streets and bazaars, the private and public edifices, and the palaces, gardens and parks of Nineveh — that “ exceeding great city of three days’ journey,” and containing, at the least calculation, more than half a million of inhabitants, upon 152 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. which the prophet Jonah was commissioned to denounce the judgments of heaven. The coincidence in dimensions is somewhat striking, — three days’ journey in the East being just about sixty miles. This agrees also with the extent assigned to “ Nineveh the Great ” by profane authors. But when they go further, and represent the city as being surrounded in this whole vast circumference by lofty and solid walls, they state what is no where af- firmed in the sacred records, and what seems to be con- tradicted by modern observation, since no trace of so extensive a wall can any where be discovered. These mounds are perpetual monuments at once of the doom of wicked nations and of the truth of Scripture history and prophecy. They contain the palaces of the Assyrian monarchs, on whose walls of gypsum and alabaster heathen artists recorded the histories of their heathen masters, and sculptured the images of their false gods ; but the servants of the one living and true God in these latter days find in them a running commentary on his written word — dead yet speaking witnesses to the truth of the Old Tes- tament Scriptures. They read in those strange characters the same names of sovereigns and cities, not only of Assyria but of Judea also, with which they have become familiar in sacred history, while they see the fulfillment of prophecy in the utter ruin of those proud monuments of ancient wealth and power. The peasant now drives his plow over some of these mounds, while others pasture the flocks of the wild sons of the desert. The language of prophecy has now become simple history. “ Nineveh is a desolation, dry like a wilderness ; flocks lie down in the midst of her, all the beasts of the nations ; both the cormo- rant and the bittern lodge in the upper lintels of it ; their voice sings in the windows ; desolation is in the thresh- olds.” Travelers from distant lands — lands not in existence when Nineveh was “the rejoicing city, that dwelt carelessly, that said in her heart, I am and there is FULFILLMENT OF PROPHECY. 153 none beside me,” — now “ pass by, and hiss and wag their hand, and say, How is she become a desolation, a place for beasts to lie down in ! ” Xenophon passed over the ground two thousand years ago, and admired the ruins, but never so much as heard the name of Nineveh. The Greeks, the Romans, the Parthians, the Sassanians, the Saracens, the Turks, have since ruled there, ignorant alike of those buried palaces and of the proud sovereigns that built them, and that strove to perpetuate their memories in imperish- able sculptures on the walls. Twenty-five centuries have rolled away since the Lord “ stretched out his hand against the North, and destroyed Assyria,”* and now for the first time those monuments have found an interpreter. The same wise and prescient Power, which was treasuring up coal in the bowels of the earth ages before man was placed upon it, to drive the wheels of modern manufac- tures and commerce, — the same wonder-working Prov- idence which kept the new world from the knowledge of the inhabitants of the old, till our pilgrim fathers were ready to plant it with their new principles and insti- tutions, — buried these wonderful monuments out of sight through all the centuries in which they were not needed and could not have been understood, and brought them to light to reward the learning and to counteract the skepticism of modern times. Thirty-four miles north of Mosul, a little way up the side of one of the mountains of Koordistan, is the village of Al-Kosh, settled by a colony of Jewish exiles in the time of the Babylonish captivity, and now peopled entirely by Chaldean Christians, where Nahum “ the El - Koshite ” was born, and whither Jews and Christians still go on pilgrimage to a tomb that bears his name. There, from his mountain watch-tower, he looked down upon the lofty walls and magnificent palaces of the Assy- *Zeph. ii , 13-15. 154 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. rian capital, and taking up “ the burden of Nineveh” denounced upon the bloody city the opening of her gates to the enemy, the destruction by fire of her gorgeous palaces, and her utter depopulation, like the once popu- lous No of Upper Egypt.* About one hundred and thirty miles west of Mosul, another band, or a succession of bands of exiles, trans- planted by Assyrian and Babylonian conquerors from the mountains and valleys of Israel, settled down on the banks of the river Chebar. There, too, the spirit of pro- phecy came upon one of the captives, and he saw visions of God — of Jehovah, the God of Israel, riding upon the living creatures, and the wheels in majesty and glory which transcended infinitely the utmost pomp of the Assy- rian and Babylonian monarchs with their winged lions and bulls, the grand but motionless and lifeless symbols of their idolatry — Jehovah riding forth at the beginning of the vision, conquering and to conquer, as the appear- ance of a flash of lightning, and with a noise of great waters, as the noise of the Almighty ; and, at the end of the vision, establishing his own kingdom on earth, even as in heaven, with the New Jerusalem for its capital, and the new temple for its palace, in comparison with whose vast dimensions and magnificent structure all the temples and palaces of Nineveh and Babylon, even in their highest glory, would dwindle into insignificance. The prophecy of Ezekiel still lives, and the kingdom of God is marching steadily onward to its final and universal triumph ; but the waters of the river Chabour (for it still bears essen- tially its old name) mingling with those of the Euphrates, have gone over Babylon like a “ sea,” and turned the sur- rounding country into “pools of water ; ” and “the wild beasts of the islands cry in their desolate houses, and the dragons in their jdeasant palaces.” The ruined site of * Nahum, i., 1 ; iii. , 7, 8, 13. SHUSH AN THE PALACE. 155 Babylon is some three hundred and fifty miles south of Mosul, on the Euphrates. It has “become heaps, an astonishment and an hissing, without inhabitant.” Twelve miles south of it is a tomb which bears the name of the prophet Ezekiel. It is at “ the little town of Keffil, which, from its want of luxuriant trees and vegetation, looks dull and somber in the extreme — a fitting place for the sepulcher of a captive prophet in a strange land.”* Some two hundred and fifty miles east of Babylon, near the banks of a river which unites its waters with those of the Euphrates and the Tigris a little before they empty themselves into the Persian Gulf, is shown the tomb of the prophet Daniel, whose prophecies, like those of Ezekiel, are deeply colored throughout with the geog- raphy and history, the ideas and usages, of the city and empire of Babylon. The place, though now almost with- out inhabitant, bears the name of Shush, and unquestion- ably marks the site of Shushan the palace, and of Susa the rich and splendid winter capital of the Persians. Captain Loftus has recently laid bare the foundations and fragments of the marble columns of the palace which was built by Darius, and where, as he supposes, Xerxes, the husband of Esther, and the Ahasuerus of Scripture, “ made a feast unto all the people that were in Shushan the palace, both unto great and small, seven days in the court of the garden of the king's palace, where were white, green and blue hangings fastened with cords of fine linen and purple to silver rings and pillars of marble ; the beds were of gold and silver upon & pavement of red and blue and white and black marble.” f Nineveh, Chebar, Babylon, and Shushan may be taken for the angles of a great parallelogram, or oblong, some four hundred miles in length, and more than two hundred in breadth, whose surface is more or less thickly sown * Loftus 5 Travels in Chaldea and Susiana. t Esther, i , 5, 6. 156 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. with mounds and “ heaps,” Avhich mark the sites of ancient cities. Indeed, the entire space enclosed between the two great rivers, and lying on their tributaries — rivers more than a thousand miles long and watering a valley two hundred miles broad — is intersected with dry canals, and dotted with heaps of ruins. Many of these cities were already in ruins when the earliest Greek historians wrote. Forsaken cities occur in Xenophon’s expedition through Mesopotamia quite as frequently as those that are in- habited. The cities which Alexander and his successors built out of the ruins of older ones have themselves been in ruins now a thousand years, and the few remaining cities of the Saracens and Turks are fast going to decay. A country so abounding in antiquities, and those of the oldest and grandest kind — a country so rich in sacred and classical associations — could not but interest any curious mind, especially any scholar, and, most of all, a scholar from the new world. Dr. Lobdell, as we shall see in the following pages, took a lively interest in Assy- rian antiquities, walked repeatedly through the deserted 23alaces of Sennacherib, Esarhaddon, and Sardanapalus, visited the more desolate capital of Nebuchadnezzar and Belshazzar, formed the acquaintance of several of the Eng- lish explorers, and corresponded with the OrientaT Society, and other scholars in his own country. But Mesopotamia has seen a sadder fall than that of Babylon and Nineveh, and is overspread with more melancholy ruins than those heaps which cover ancient palaces, temples, and tombs. The Euphrates and the Tigris were among the rivers that watered Eden ; and how sad the fall of man since he walked and talked with God in the garden of primeval innocence ! The human race went out from the ark of Noah to re-people a world that had been washed from its pollutions by the deluge, and whether that ark rested on the Armenian Ararat, as is commonly supposed at the West, or on RUINS. 157 Yudi, a spur of the mountains of Koordistan, according to the more common tradition of Mohammedans, Jews, and Christians in the East, there can be little doubt that it was in Northern Mesopotamia that the post-diluvian patriarchs served God in their generation. The race was already fallen and ruined by sin , but what a decline has there been since in physical health, strength, and lon- gevity ; what degeneracy in moral purity and intellectual power ; what mere wrecks of humanity, scarcely re- taining the human form, scarce deserving the name of human beings, now wander to and fro between the table lands of Northern Mesopotamia and the alternate sands and swamps of Assyria, Babylonia, Chaldea, and Susiana. And then — saddest of all ruins ! — there are the wrecks of Christian churches in the cities and villages and on the -mountains, like gallant ships stranded on the rocks and islands, and strewn along the shore after a storm, or like the drift of human works and human habitations that is left here and there on the high banks, after a fearful flood has swept over the valleys. The Christians, for whose benefit especially the mission at Mosul was first established, are the Nestorians and the Jacobites, both branches of the ancient and venerable Oriental church, but both cut off in the sixth and seventh centuries from the so-called Catholic Church, for heresy, the former because they believed that Christ had two natures in one person, and the latter because they believed that he had one nature in one person. These were the two extremes in the great monophysite controversy, which so long agitated the church and convulsed the Roman empire. The church which claimed to be infallible, professed to stand on some undefinable mean between them, but in reality swung from one extreme to the other, according as the one or the other dogma gained the ascendency on the im- perial throne at Constantinople. The question was about words and names, or about metaphysical subtleties too 14 158 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. nice for the clear discernment even of the sharpest intel- lects. Hence it has long since become obsolete, not only in the Catholic Church, but in the churches whose extreme views were the cause of their excision. Whether Christ consisted of two distinct natures, whether he subsisted in two distinct natures, or whether the natures were distinct only in conception but not in their actual existence — not whether he was in fact both God and man, but how the divinity was united to the humanity — this was the ques- tion which perplexed councils and cabinets, divided churches, distracted provinces, and even set armies in hostile array against each other It is a dark chapter in the history of the church. It demonstrates more con- clusively than any amount of reasoning, the deplorable evils of a union of church and state. It proves that the church in this age was more concerned for the form than for the substance of Christianity ; that she was more afraid of the smallest constructive heresy than of the grossest injustice and immorality; that she was more zealous for the honor of the Virgin Mary than for the worship and service of Jesus Christ ; and that the authority of the church — in other words, of the church and state hie- rarchy — was quite paramount to the law of God. As we read this dark chapter, — to say nothing of subsequent darker chapters — in the history of the church, we almost cease to wonder at the otherwise mysterious providence of God in permitting the rise of Mohammedanism. W e see that the church not only deserved such a scourge, but needed such an iconoclast to dash in pieces her idols, and herself too, if she would still cleave to her idols, and her sins. The hTestorians derived their name from Nestorius, a presbyter of the church at Antioch, who, “ for the rigid austerity of his life and the impressive fervor of his preaching,” was made patriarch of Constantinople in A. D. 428, but was deposed, excommunicated, and finally JACOBITES. 159 banished from the empire because he presumed to question the propriety of calling Mary “ the mother of God,” and to hold the damnable heresy, since held for substance by all Protestant sects, that Christ unites “two distinct natures in one person for ever” The Jacobites are so called from Jacob, a monk and presbyter from the district of Nisibis in Mesopotamia, who, under the disguise of a beggar, traversed Syria and the adjacent provinces, rallied the believers in the doctrine of the one nature of Christ, who in their turn were now persecuted and oppressed ; “ ordained clergy for them, gave them a superior in the patriarch of Antioch, and labored for them himself during a period of thirty years, until A. D. 578, as a bishop, probably at Edessa This name was never adopted by all who held the doctrine, and the Jacobites, as a sect, have always been chiefly confined, as they now are, to that section — Mesopotamia — in which the founder of the sect lived and died. But the ISTestorians have a history, which is one of the brightest chapters in the history of the church — a history of missionary enterprises which extended their churches from Egypt to China, and from north of the Caspian Sea to the southern bounds of India, but alas ! a history of bloody and cruel persecutions too, which have extin- guished the last spark of Christianity in the larger part of this vast territory, and driven the poor remnants of the Nestorian church, like hunted and stricken deer, into the mountains that mark the confines of the Turkish and Per- sian empires. They have been called “ the Protestants of the East” In their palmy days, their theological schools were in advance of all others in sound learning as well as in Christian influence, and their teachers and preachers were the best expositors of the Scriptures. *For the origin of the Nestorians and Jacobites, see Neander, Vol. II., pp. 435-557 : History of the doctrine concerning the person of Christ. 160 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. They have retained not a few unscriptural ideas and usages from the corrupt church from which they sprung ; but the three great dissenting branches of the Oriental church, the Nestorians, the Jacobites and the Armenians, all acknowledge the Bible as the infallible rule of faith and practice. This gives the missionaries of the Protes- tant Christian churches a great advantage. They have a common standard. They may misinterpret it — they may wrest it to their own destruction — but the law and the testimony are confessedly to be found in the Scriptures of the Old and New Testament. The Greeks and the Roman Catholics will insist on the authority of the Church, and make void the law of God and the gospel of Christ by their traditions. The heathen not only deny the authority of revelation, but they have almost put out the light of reason. The missionary to the heathen must not only give them the Bible, he must almost create in them a conscience. The missionary to the Roman Catholics or the Greeks can scarcely find any common and solid ground on which to stand. He wants the fulcrum on which he can rest the lever, whereby he would move and elevate those dead and sunken masses. But these interesting frag- ments of the ancient Oriental church are “ more noble,” — they are willing to search the Scriptures, to see whether the missionary tells them the truth, and they will not deny the authority, though they may fail to submit to its divine teachings. The papacy has long had a covetous eye on these east- ern churches, and has seized every opportunity to make inroads on their territory. Infallible and immutable as the Romish Church is, she is now quite willing to over- look the doctrinal difference which was the ground of their excision. Provided only they will acknowledge the supremacy of the Pope, she can wink, for a season at least, at errors in doctrine and practice — she can wait for time and tact and persuasion and j^ower, when once it NESTORIANS. 161 is reestablished, to effect a full conformity to her own ritual. By such unscrupulous means she has been but too suc- cessful in the accomplishment of her end. In 1780, the Nestorian Patriarch of the Plain, whose residence was at Mosul, submitted to the Roman See, thus leaving the Patriarch of the Mountains and the feeble churches, which acknowledged his supremacy, to stand alone in their resist- ance. “ This secession,” says Mr. Laurie in his admirable biography of Dr. Grant, “was secured partly by bribes and partly by violence, and was followed by still severer oppression of the proselyted patriarch. At his death, in 1841, his office, instead of descending to his nephew, ac- cording to previous custom, was conferred on a Chaldean from Salmas, and the very name of Mar Elias (hitherto the hereditary and official name of the patriarch,) ex- changed for that of Mar Nicola, by a decree from the Pope. Nor is this interference with the patriarchate the only wrong Rome has inflicted on a sister church. She has altered her ancient liturgy, introduced her own idola- trous worship of images, suppressed the second command- ment, and, as a matter of course, forbids the circulation of the Scriptures that would expose the mutilation. The people are restive under her yoke, and the day of retribu- tion may be near at hand.” Such was the state of the Nestorian Church, when the missionaries, sent by the American Board to the mountain Nestorians, found them- selves shut out from that field by an exterminating war, and in the mysterious providence of God placed in an- other (Mosul) amid a population of forty thousand souls, “ of whom nearly one-third were Christians.” Very similar was the condition of the Jacobites, the other branch of the ancient church of Antioch. “ By her usual arts,” we borrow the language of Mr. Laurie, “ Rome had seduced a portion of the people, and, true to her persecuting character, she now invoked the aid of the Turks to take away the churches from those who still 14* 162 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. remained true to their ancient faith. ‘ On the side of their oppressors there was power,’ and soon rough parti- tion walls divided the sanctuaries of their fathers. On one side, the faithful remnant chanted their ancient hymns ; on the other, rose the voices of the Papists amid images imported from Pome.” The Romish perverts, or seceders, from the churches of the East, have taken new names, and have had the wis- dom to choose, and the arrogance to assume the national or provincial names, which should have belonged to the original churches. Those who have gone out from the Nestorian church are called Chaldeans, and those who have left the Jacobites, Syrians. The patriarch of the Chaldeans and Syrians resides at Mosul; of the Jacobites at Mardin, in Mesopotamia; and of the hTestorians in the mountains of Koordistan. The missionaries seemed to have come too late ; they found “the whole region abandoned to Paj)al superstition and Moslem fanaticism.” But Providence had prepared the way in a remarkable manner for their favorable recep- tion and the immediate communication of the pure gospel to their persecuted brethren, even before they had acquired the language. This can not be better told than in the words of the biographer of Dr. Grant, who has him- self been on the ground and borne a part in the early his- tory of the mission : “ As they had once been duped by the plausible pretences of the Papists, they were cautious in their advances towards strangers. But Providence had provided for this also. When Dr. Grant arrived in Mosul, he found Joseph Matthews, a Jacobite priest from Mala- bar, — a graduate of the English College at Cottayam, and very evangelical in his views, — on his way to the patriarch at Mardin, to be ordained Metropolitan of the Jacobites in India. He spoke English with much pro- priety, and manifested a deep interest in the spiritual wel- fare of his church. He at once gave the missionaries the THE JACOBITE MILLWRIGHT. 163 right hand of fellowship, and did all in his power to recommend them to the people. But then, though with the former he could converse in English, he had no medium of intercourse with the latter. And this opens another page of missionary providence. “ A young Jacobite millwright had grown up to man- hood without knowing a letter. Such a thing as an adult learning to read was, to him at least, unheard of, so that when he made the attempt he was laughed at for his pains. Undismayed by ridicule, he induced the son of a priest to teach him the Syriac alphabet; and after he came home from his day’s work among the rude horse- mills of the city, by the light of his lamp, in the solitude of his own room, he spelled his way into a tolerable knowl- edge of the ancient Syriac. Not content with merely repeating the sounds of the words, as others did, he sought for their meaning, and, mark the result ! the priest from India spoke this language freely, and, with Micha (the millwright) for an interpreter, he preached Christ and him crucified, to the Jacobites of Mosul. What a chain of providences! Just when that church, hard pressed by its enemies, was looking round for help, the missionaries were sent ; and while they were held back from entering the field they came from America to occupy, a priest from India, prepared to appreciate their object, was sent to introduce them into another ; and from among that other people, in an unusual way, God provided an interpreter for his servant from the East.” For two months, this coadjutor, sent by Providence from a distant land, cooperated with the mission, in the circulation of the Scriptures, and in the preaching of the gospel ; and then, at the end of September, 1841, he went with his interpreter to the residence of the Jacobite pa- triarch in Mardin. “ In the spring, Priest Matthew re- turned to Mosul as Mutran * Athanasius, his zeal no whit Bishop. With this new office, he took also a new name. 164 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. abated by the transformation ; and Micha returned also* a more intelligent. and valuable assistant, though not then, as he thinks, a converted man.” The bishop remained during the summer, rendering cheerful assistance to Mr. Hinsdale, while Dr. Grant was absent on a tour among the mountain Nestorians; and then he returned to India, where he proved an able and faithful pastor and teacher of the flock. Micha continued to be the interpreter and teacher of the missionaries, till repeated deaths and adverse providences occasioned a temporary suspension of the mission. During the dark and stormy night, he stood at his post, encouraging the little band of true believers, and watching and praying for the morning. When other missionaries at length arrived, he was there to welcome them ; and there he still remains a pillar in the church, and, so far as his imper- fect health will allow, an efficient fellow-laborer in the work of the mission. W e must now revert to the sad history of the many and peculiar trials which befell the first missionaries. It was in the autumn of 1839, that Dr Grant, the intrepid pio- neer in the mission to the mountain Nestorians, first visited Mosul, partly for the sake of exploring Mesopo- tamia and Assyria, and ascertaining the state of the Jaco- bite and Nestorian churches, and partly for the sake of entering the mountains from the Turkish side, since they are, for the most part, subject nominally to the Turkish empire. In January, 1841, Messrs. Hinsdale and Mitchell, with their wives, left the United States to go by way of Mosul, and join Dr. Grant in his mountain mission. De- tained by ill health and the unforeseen but unavoidable delays incident to travel in the East, it was already the middle of June before they reached Diarbekr. They set out almost immediately by the land route for Mosul. But Mr. Mitchell died on the way, and was buried at Telabel, about five hours from Jezirah. On the 7th of July, the TRIALS OF THE FIRST MISSIONARIES. 1G5 remainder of the party reached Mosul, having suffered every thing but death from the heat of the climate, the hardships and trials of the journey, and the barbarity of the inhabitants, But Mrs. Mitchell was to find rest only in her grave. On the 12th, she went to join her husband in that land where they shall no more say, I am sick. “Mr. Hinsdale, who had watched with Mrs. Mitchell, till he fainted in attempting to walk from one room to another, was taken violently ill before her death, and was not able to leave his bed till August. Mrs. Hinsdale, at the same time, was too ill to render him any assistance.” On the 24th, Dr. Grant arrived from the mountains just in time to save Mr. Hinsdale from a relapse, that would otherwise, probably, have proved fatal. On the 12th of November, 1842, Mr. and Mrs. Laurie reached Mosul, the former sick with chills and fever, and the latter worn out with fatigue and anxiety. Mr. Hinsdale, who had just returned from the mountains, devoted himself to their recovery till con- stant watching and care, together with a cold contracted in the mountains, induced a fever, of which he died on the 26th of December. In December, 1843, Mrs. Laurie, after two months’ decline, fell asleep in Jesus. And in April, 1844, the mission was called to endure a more severe trial than any it had yet experienced, in the death of the enterprising pioneer, the fearless soldier of the cross, the skillful physician, the heroic and devoted missionary, Dr. Grant. It was just nine years since he left Utica, N. Y., to embark for the shores of Asia. During that time, he had made five distinct missionary tours among the scat- tered tribes and villages of the Koordish mountains. Once he had visited his native land, chiefly to plead the cause of his beloved mission, by his tongue and by his pen, and, if possible, to enlist volunteers in the service. Constrained by a sense of duty to his own family, he was soon con- templating a second visit to the United States. But another home and other friends were destined to welcome 166 MEMOIR OF L013DELL. him. Exhausted by incessant ministries to the bodies and the souls of the poor Nestorian fugitives, who, driven from the mountains by their unrelenting enemies, fled for refuge to Mosul and died there in great numbers of a malignant typhus fever, he also took the disease. Dr. Azariah Smith had providentially arrived just before ; but the disease baffled medical skill, and the extinction of the independence and almost of the existence of the moun- tain Nestorians was soon followed by the death of their indefatigable friend and benefactor. Of the seven mis- sionaries who first went to that field, five sleep on the banks of the Tigris — precious dust awaiting a glorious resurrection — precious seed, too, we doubt not, destined yet to spring up in a spiritual harvest that shall wave like the corn in the Assyrian valley, and like the trees of the forest in the Koordish mountains. Nor were these their only trials. Not only did cruel and bloody enemies destroy the fold and scatter the flock on the mountains, wolves in sheep’s clothing seized upon the fugitives in the valley. Most of them fell into the hands of the papists. The patriarch of the valley had gone over to the pope, and taken most of the people with him. The papists had possession of the churches, the schools, the convents, the revenues, all the ecclesiastical property. So long as the fugitives adhered to the faith of their fathers, they could expect neither charity nor justice. They were de- nied needful food, raiment, and shelter. Nay, they were even refused burial in the churches that were properly their own. But if they would only turn papists, not only char- ity but bribes were distributed with a liberal hand. “ F orty thousand piastres of French gold are said to have aided the arguments employed to convince them of the identity of that church with their own.” They were generally too weak in the faith to withstand such temptations. Moreover the papists found a virtual ally, and the Prot- estants a bitter enemy in one from whom better things SUSPENSION OE THE MISSION. 167 should have been expected. An Englishman who de- nounced the American missionaries as mere schismatics, tampered with Micha and others who had become more or less enlightened, and endeavored to withdraw them from the influence of the missionaries, and even labored to poison the minds of the Jacobites against the Syriac Bibles of the British and Foreign Bible Society, (which were circulated by the missionaries,) because they did not contain the Apocrypha. Micha spurned his insinuations. Bishop Athanasius withstood him to the face. The mis- sionaries bore opposition from this unexpected source with Christian meekness and forbearance. But it was among their sorest trials ; for it was not an enemy that reproached them — it was one who should have been their friend. Bereaved, disappointed, and shut out from their expected field of labor, the survivors returned to America. After little more than three years from its commencement, the mission was suspended. For a time, Micha was left almost alone to stem the flood of papal errors and diffuse the light of the pure gospel. But the influence of the truth, preached by the missionaries and further extended by the circulation of the Scriptures, was still working on many minds, not only among the Jacobites, but among the papal Nestorians. There was a remarkable movement especially in the convent at Al-Kosh, the seat of papal learning and influence; and Micha found coadjutors among those who had been monks in that monastery. The visits of Messrs. Perkins and Stocking from Oroomiah, and of Mr. Ford from Aleppo — the former in 1849, and the latter in 1850 — encouraged the native brethren and kept alive the flame. In March, 1850, Rev. D. W. Marsh, a graduate of Williams College and of Union Theological Seminary, arrived at Mosul, and with the advice and cooperation of Mr. Ford, purchased a house for a place of worship, and took measures for the formation of a Protestant commu- nity. In May, 1851, Rev. W. F. Williams, of Utica, 1ST. Y., 168 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. and a graduate of Auburn Theological Seminary, arrived from Beyroot, bringing together with Mrs. Williams, Miss Salome Karabet, “ the first missionary from the native church of Abeih,” to engage in the instruction of females. Mr. Marsh and Mr. and Mrs. Williams composed the mis- sion, when Dr. and Mrs. Lobdell joined it; though Mr. Marsh was then absent on a visit to his native land, and only Mr. and Mrs. Williams were there to welcome them, on their arrival on Saturday, the 8th of May, 1852. CHAPTER X. Climate of Mosul — Extreme heat — Dryness — Houses — Bargains — Cheap living — Opening of his Boxes — Medical Practice — Dispensary — Accompa- nied with Religious Services — Diseases, bodily and spiritual — His own Health — Recreations during and after sickness — Assyrian Antiquities — Missionary Physicians — Stated Religious Services of the Mission — Native Helpers — Priest Michael — Deacon Jeremiah — Micha and Hanna — The Arabic — First Impressions of the Field — Discouragements — Women — Schools — Extracts from Journal — Selections from Letters — To Dr. Perkins — Mr Coan — Mr. Stoddard — Mr. Seelye — His Brother — Dr. Anderson — Mr. Scofield — Dr. Hitchcock. The latitude of Mosul is about the same with the south line of Virginia. But the heat of summer is far more intense in Assyria, than it is in any part of the United States. For weeks and months together, the thermometer ranges from 100° to 110°, and sometimes rises even to 117° in the shade at mid-day ; and not unfrequently it stands through the night at the highest point which it ever reaches in the day-time in our climate. The average temperature of the day and the night is usually as high as 95° in the month of July, 90° for the three summer months, and 67° for the whole year. The dryness of the atmosphere is as excessive as the heat. Rain, dew, and even clouds are unknown through the summer, which is the dry season. “ For two weeks past,” writes Mrs. Lobdell early in November, “ 87° has been the highest point the mercury has reached. We are just beginning to sit in our room with the doors closed, and I fancy in about two weeks more we shall find a fire comfortable. Last night, we had quite a shower of rain, and most of the day has been cloudy. A clouded sky is a new thing for us to see in Mosul. No rain fell for four or five months after we 15 170 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. reached here, except a few drops the week after we ar- rived.” Add to this excessive heat and dryness an occa- sional sirocco, when the atmosphere becomes a stifling cloud of fine sand, and an impalpable dust penetrates not only every crevice about the doors and windows, but every closet and drawer in the house, and the reader will readily imagine some of the inconveniences and discom- forts of a summer in Mosul. “ In July, every dry object communicates the sensation of heat. Beds seem just scorched with a warming-pan, and even the stone floor is hot to the touch. A change of linen, instead of imparting the cooling sensation that it does in other climes, feels as if fresh from the mouth of a furnace ; for perspiration keeps the body cooler than the dry substances around it. Such extreme heat deals most unmercifully with furniture. Solid mahogany desks are split; articles fastened with glue fall to pieces ; miniatures painted on ivory curl like a shaving, and the ivory handles of knives and forks crack from end to end. An unfortunate piano that had wan- dered from England to one of the consulates, was contin- ually wrenched out of tune and rendered useless.” Such is the graphic description which Mr. Laurie, in his Life of Dr. Grant, gives of the effect of the climate, even on in- animate things ; and the unanimous testimony of Dr. Lob- dell and others who have spent years in the country, forbids the supposition which we are at first inclined to entertain, that it is exaggerated. No wonder, that the first missionary families, who were so unfortunate as to arrive in mid-summer, were swept away almost as by the plague. The marvel is, how any human being, how any living thing but salamanders, can exist in such a climate. Men and animals shun, by every possible means, the heat at noon-day. The direct rays of the sun scorch and burn like the flames of a furnace. Even the buffaloes, in default of a shade, bury themselves up to the nostrils in the waters of the Tigris. The kings LIFE IN MOSUL. 171 and nobles of ancient Nineveh built the walls of their palaces under ground. The rich men of Mosul, and all who can afford the luxury, “ have serdaubs or cellars fitted up under the court of the house for sitting-rooms in the summer ; and the nights are spent on the roofs by all classes, from May till September.” In the spring and autumn, the occupants of the better houses find a de- lightful place for sitting and breathing the pure air, for lounging on the divan, or talking with a friend, in the leewan — a spacious alcove opening into the court by a broad and lofty arch, and often elegantly furnished and adorned.* In Damascus and some other cities of the East, the court, and sometimes the leewan itself, is made doubly refreshing by the cooling air and the sweet music of an ever-flowing fountain. But no such luxury charms the senses of the wealthy inhabitants of Mosul, who are content to drink water brought to them in skins on the backs of animals from the muddy Tigris. Dr. Lobdell and his family boarded with Mr. Williams for two months and more, till the heat of the summer, and their increas- ing calls for medical advice and spiritual counsel, ren- dered it necessary that they should find more ample ac- commodations. They then leased a house belonging to Eunice Bey, — one of the Moslem nobility, — for which they were to pay him an annual rent of about seventy-five dollars. The bargain was made through Mr. Rassam, the English Vice-Consul ; for, as Mr. R. said, “ the Bey would think it a disgrace to talk about the bargain with the other party ; though he would not hesitate to rob all the poor in Mosul.” In making purchases, of whatever kind, Dr. Lobdell was continually reminded of Abraham’s purchase of a burial-place from the sons of Heth. They would begin with offering to give him the article, or allowing him * Dr. L. suggests that it was probably in the leewan of the High Priest’s pal- ace, that Jesus underwent his mock trial, while Peter and other lookers-on were in the open court. Hence Jesus could hear Peter’s denial, and look on him. 172 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. to set his own price ; and, after setting a price and rising upon it, perhaps more than once, they would end with demanding two or three times the market value. Even at this rate, however, every thing in the East seems cheap to an American, so low is the standard of prices. Thus wheat sometimes does not exceed fifteen cents a bushel. A common laborer can be hired for twelve to fifteen cents a day ; the best masons and carpenters for thirty, and fe- males for eight. Dr. Lobdell bought a horse for twenty- seven dollars, which, in this country, would have been worth a hundred or a hundred and fifty. His house was in the Moslem quarter of the city. The windows were at least twenty feet above the street, and looked out upon brown walls from fifteen to sixteen feet high, and nothing else all around it. Not a green thing was to be seen. The donkeys trudged along the pavement loaded with dirt, grapes, joss,* and the like ; and the only variation afforded to this monotony was the cry of the muezzin from the minarets of the mosks, and now and then a coarse Arab song from the back of a donkey. As he was making some repairs for his own convenience, the Bey requested him to remove the letters of the Koran, with which the leewcm was ornamented, fearing that they would be profaned by such drunken revels as were too common in Frank houses in the East! Dr. Lobdell al- most reproved himself for expending so much money on a house ; yet, when he had done his best to improve it, (being very often his own architect and mechanic, while the workmen whom he employed, after the manner of the country, stood, and smoked and talked and looked on), he said no minister in America would live in it. When he came to open his boxes of goods, he was sorry, but hardly disappointed, to find that they were in a sad condition. A box of glass, which he bought at Aleppo, * A mixture of stones and pounded gypsum. MEDICAL PRACTICE. 173 was, two thirds of it, broken. Furniture from America was scarcely in a better plight ; and books, bedding, and wearing apparel, wet, moldy, smoking and fermenting, were so massed and matted together that it was not easy to distinguish one thing from another. He had, however, the comfort of knowing that he had fared better than some of his brethren, who, on opening their boxes, found flour and fruit, coflee and cocoa, books and bedding re- duced to such a state that they could not tell whether pulp or paste predominated. Scarcely had Dr. Lobdell set foot in Mosul, when he was besieged by patients of every class and description, lie therefore went every where armed with pills, pincers, and lancets. He made professional calls in the city, and, after a while, in villages at some hours’ distance. He opened a dispensary, where medicine was administered to all classes, always accompanied with prayer, and the read- ing and expounding of the Scriptures. For a time, he did all this gratuitously, and received patients at all hours of the day. It was afterwards found necessary, or deemed expedient, to open the dispensary only at a fixed hour in the after part of the day, and to charge a small fee in case the patient was able to pay, and in proportion to his ability. Still the room, and sometimes the court, was crowded. A hundred patients, high and low, rich and poor, Moslem, Jew, and Christian, were often present together. Some rode on horses, some on donkeys, some came on foot, and some were borne on the shoulders or in the arms of their friends. The majority were often Mo- hammedans. But they made no objection to the religious services, which were the indispensable condition of re- ceiving the medicines. While Dr. Lobdell was ignorant of the language, Mr. Williams, or one of the native help- ers, conducted the religious services. It was not long, however, before the Doctor himself could point a lancet or sweeten a pill with more or less of the truths of the 15 * 174 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. gospel. He soon trained an assistant also in the admin- istration of medicines, though Ablahad’s office was chiefly that of an apothecary, and in that he needed close and constant watching. The diseases were of every kind, real or imaginary, pos- sible or conceivable. As in soul, so in body, they an- swered to the description of the prophet. Every organ, from the sole of the foot to the crown of the head, had its disease or its bruise. All was wounds and putrifying sores ; and they had not been bound up, neither mollified with ointment. Goitre, leprosy, ophthalmia, — all so bad as to make the person a mass of deformity, — and those worse diseases, which are not to be named in Christen- dom, but with which the whole body of Islam is, as it were, rotten, and the whole blood cancerous — these were among the most common types of disease, with which he was every day familiar. But the most frequent distemper with which he met, and which tried his patience most, was fear , fright. If any thing fell near them, especially the women, they must see the hakeem . They wanted medicine to make them thin, and medicine to make them fat, — medicine to make them hot, and medicine to make them cool. Children must have medicine to make them strong. They asked for medicine for the idiotic and the insane. A man holding a high office in the government, once brought him his watch to mend, thinking the ha- keem must, of course, understand the mechanic arts. In short, they regarded him as a kind of magician , who knew all arts, and could work all miracles. They were astonished at his diagnosis of diseases and his foresight of the issue. He was not only more skillful but more frank than the native physicians. The native doctors were in the habit of assuring those who were near their end, that they would recover. He made it a rule to deal in perfect honesty and truthfulness, as witli the well, so with the sick and the dying ; and whenever there was any chance NATIVE IDEAS OF MEDICINE. 175 or any hope of a good result, to direct those who were at the point of death to Jesus, as the only Physician who could now be of any use to them, — the Physician of the soul. Their ideas and uses of medicine were as strange as their diseases. They would apply pills externally, and swallow the papers in which medicines were put up. They would ask, if the 'papers were to be dissolved in water, as well as the contents. They would insist on tak- ing a quart of medicine all at once, or, perhaps, go to the other extreme, and lay aside the medicine till they should get better. The Doctor would direct the removal of a little of the superfluous hair, and, on re-visiting the pa- tient, find his whole head shaven. It was no uncommon thing for the native doctors to blister the head all over, and to cauterize every other part of the body with a hot iron. We do not mean to say, that this last was done all at once ; but after repeated prescriptions, in some cases, scarcely a square inch could be found on the whole body that was not cauterized. At the same time they had a great dread of cutting and amputation, as this is the mark of a convicted thief or felon. The draught which such scenes must make upon the sym- pathies, was scarcely less exhausting to Dr. Lobdell than the bodily fatigue. He was treated with the utmost kind- ness and respect. lie was saluted with the title, not only of Hakeem , but Consul, Bey, Effendi. He received wel- come and valuable presents. The people, sometimes at least, showed that they were capable of gratitude, though there is no such word in the Arabic language. But he never could forget that they were immortal beings, hasting — and, as he could not but believe, unprepared — to the retributions of eternity. Their bodily diseases were, to his eyes, but the symbols of the more dreadful malady to which their souls were subject ; and the deaths, which he so often witnessed or foresaw, were, in his view, but the 176 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. awful prelude of death eternal. These were realities to him ; and he longed, but could hardly hope, to make them realities to his patients. Even when worn out with care and toil, and so sick himself that he could not foresee the result, we find in his brief journal such entries as these : “ Calls plenty. Poor people ! What will become of their souls ? Oh that their souls may be touched and healed ! ” And on seeing or hearing of a death among o o o his patients, the reluctant conviction is forced from him that another soul is lost. At three different times during his first summer in Mosul, Dr. Lobdell suffered from severe attacks of acute disease. The first, in June, was only an inflammation in the ear and face, not dangerous but protracted and pain- ful in the extreme, so as sometimes to extort from him the cry, “ pain, pain. , pain.” The latter part of August he was attacked with a fever, which lasted only a few days, but left him very weak, and brought him to look death in the face. Again, late in October, he was seized with a violent headache, which continued day after day, and threatened to end in inflammation of the brain. At the same time Mary was suffering severely from ophthalmia — a disease which often produces such swelling of the face that the eye is invisible, and is attended with such extreme pain, that the sufferer would gladly have the eye bored out, if he could thus find relief. But both the father and the child were mercifully delivered from the extreme forms of their respective diseases, and, with the return of the cooler weather of the autumn, they were restored to their usual health. Mrs. Lobdell was, at times, quite overcome with the fatigue and anxiety of watching the sick, superadded to the extreme heat of the climate ; but she generally en- joyed as good health as she had enjoyed in the United States. MEDICINE FOR THE SOUL. 177 Dr. Lobdell employed his sick days, when he was not too sick, and sometimes when lie was , in reading a variety of literary, religious, and professional books, of which he was as passionately fond as ever, but which, amid the pressure of medical practice and missionary labors at Mo- sul, he found less time to read than he had ever before found in all his life. While recovering his health, and for the sake of regaining his strength more perfectly, he made excursions in the surrounding country, particularly among the mounds of ancient Nineveh ; examined with his own eyes the remains of Assyrian antiquities, which were at that time being brought to light ; compared notes with Capt. Loftus, Mr. Rassam, the English Vice Consul, and Mr. Ilodder, to whose skill in drawing Col. Rawlin- son has been so much indebted ; and was preparing to form an independent judgment, if possible, of the history and the significance of those wonderful monuments. But neither books nor antiquities, his own sickness nor his attendance on others, could divert his mind from the proper work of the Christian missionary. He valued his medical practice and reputation only as an auxiliary to the propagation of the gospel and the salvation of souls. He was impatient for the time when his command of the language would enable him to jDreach Christ with his own lips to the sick and the dying : “ Called to see a woman dying. How I wanted to point her to Jesus. But my tongue is tied ! M Meanwhile he insisted that they should hear the gospel from the lips of others ; that none, whether Christian or Mohammedan, should go from the dispen- sary with medicine, without having the offer of medicine for the soul without money and without price. This was the way in which Christ and his apostles conducted their mission ; and he believed the modern missionary would be safe and wise in following their example. Wherever missionary physicians had labored, especially in the early stages of a mission, he thought he had seen the good 178 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. effects, and lie looked for happy results to follow his own labors as a physician. He hoped and expected that the faithful preaching of the truth at the dispensary would be followed by an increased attendance on the religious ser- vices. The regular preaching services were at or near sunrise in the morning, and at half-past four in the afternoon of the Sabbath, and on Wednesday evening. Besides, there was a Bible-class Sabbath noon, and a stated prayer-meeting on Saturday, at the house of some of the brethren. In the preaching, Mr. Williams had the cooperation of Priest Michael and Deacon Jeremiah. Michael is one of the papal priests — the “ El-Koshites ” — referred to in the last chapter as having come to the help of Micha during the suspension of the mission. In a joint-letter, which he and Micha then wrote to the na- tive helpers at Oroomiah,* they give the following ac- count of themselves : “ It is proper that we make known to you, dear friends, that we are two men in the city of Mosul who have cast off the way of error, and laid hold of the pure doctrines of the gospel of life, through our Lord Jesus Christ. Our names are, of one of us, Michael, of the family Joomalah, who has come out from under the yoke of Rome ; and the other, Micha Alnakker, the son of Jonas, of Jacobite Syrian origin, of Mosul. We both became acquainted with the way of truth through study and examination of the holy Scriptures, under the supervision of our English Christian brethren, that is, the Americans, who formerly dwelt in Mosul, but not one of whom is now here. And behold we are now striving for the faith once delivered to the saints, and bear the testi- mony of Jesus Christ, witnessing to all and teaching all whom we meet, in private and in public, according to the ability given to us of God ” * The letter is translated by Rev. J. Perkins, D. D., of Oroomiali. NATIVE PREACHERS. 179 Deacon Jeremiali was also a papist and a monk from the monastery at Al-Kosh. Dr. Perkins saw him when lie visited Mosul, and speaks of him as follows : * “ Early this morning, one of the evangelical 4 brethren ’ called to see us. He was formerly a monk, in the papal monastery of Rabban Ilermas, near Al-Kosh, where he spent nine years. He escaped from the monastery, after many pre- vious attempts, more than a year ago. lie had long been deeply disgusted with the abominations of that den of evil agents and evil deeds. He is a very interesting, in- telligent man, twenty-six years old, and was now engaged in teaching a school for the Jacobite bishop, Mr. Rassam having obtained this place for him after he left the mon- astery and discarded the papacy, as he was cast off by his friends and sorely persecuted by his enemies.” Dr. Perkins did not see Michael, as he had been sent by Mr. Rassam to Jezirah to look after a school there, which Mr. Rassam had undertaken to sustain at his own expense ; but lie heard him spoken of as entirely evangel- ical and ready to cooperate in efforts to make known the gospel. His conversion was the more remarkable, be- cause he was already sixty years old. Jeremiah accompa- nied Dr. Perkins and Mr. Stocking on their return to Oroomiah, and while spending the winter there, came under the influence of one of the revivals by which that mission has been so much blest, and experienced there, for the first time, as he thought, a saving change. He had been enlightened before, but now he was regenerated, and when he returned to Mosul, and began to preach the gos- pel there under the direction of Mr. Marsh, “ the great change in his whole character made a striking impression on all who had previously known him.” Among the lay members of the little church, Mich a, the stone-cutter, was still a pillar. His brother, Hanna, was also a consistent and devoted Christian. Missionary Herald for February, 1850, p. 55. 180 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL.. With these and the other brethren, Dr. Lobdell enjoyed sweet communion in prayer and conversation, listening to the simple narration of their Christian experience and their trials in the past history of the mission, rejoicing in the manifest identity of the Christian spirit though on op- posite sides of the globe, and communicating to them, first through an interpreter and afterwards with a stammering tongue, as best he could, still more of the unsearchable riches of the gospel of Christ. Next to the Chinese, the Arabic is perhaps the most difficult language in which our missionaries have occasion to teach or preach. It is easy enough to get a smattering of Arabic words; but to mas- ter it, as it is written in books, and, what is a very differ- ent matter, as it is spoken in its different dialects by the people, and to make it an accurate and adequate vehicle of Christian truth to unchristian, or at best, unspiritual hearers, is a task to which few missionaries have felt them- selves fully competent. It is amusing, though it excites somewhat of compassion also, to hear the missionaries tell of their own blunders in the choice of words, — how, for example, they prayed that the gospel might be a light to “the ears of corn” and how, when they inquired if there was any such thing as thunder on Mount Lebanon, a plow- share was brought them that they might see it with their own eyes. Dr. Lobdell complains particularly of the com- plicated grammatical structure of the language, and its inadequacy, with all its richness, to express the ideas of spiritual religion. “ I hope,” he says, after seeing the crowds of thoughtless and careless people that gather around the sick and dying, “ we may be able to produce some conviction of the solemnity of life and death. The Arabic has no word for solemnity , nor gratitude , nor love in its fullest sense. It has a word for sin, but it is only a name. Words have lost their meaning. Death broods over the people.” A little more than a month after his arrival, at the earnest request of the people, Dr. Lobdell DISC O U 11 AG E M ENTS. 181 preached his first sermon through Micha as interpreter. A week or two after, lie had the satisfaction of taking part, for the first time, in the examination of a candidate (Budrus, that is, Peter) for admission to the church. Sometimes he is much encouraged by the increasing num- ber of Bible-readers, of attendants on the daily service connected with the dispensary, and of sincere if not anx- ious inquirers after the truth. But his first impressions of the field did not, on the whole, promise a speedy harvest. He could not but think it a much less promising field than very many others that were open and yet unoccupied among the Armenians. In his first letter to the Mission House, dated Mosul, May 21st, 1852, he thus expresses himself: “It would be pre- sumptuous for me to express the conviction that there is little probability of great immediate results in Mosul, if I had not some sufficient data as the basis of that predic- tion. At present, the work advances very slowly. Yes- terday I saw for the first time considerable encourage- ment. A large number of persons have assembled daily in our court, since my arrival, to receive medicines, and yesterday eleven men called and asked permission to dis- cuss the question of Protestantism versus Tradition. Mr. Williams says this is the most encouraging fact he has met during the past year. There are doubtless a few in- dividuals, besides the members of the church, who are earnest in the investigation of the truth ; but I have been surprised to mark the contrast of this people with the Armenians. The latter are anxious seekers, the former indifferent spectators. We trust that when they come to understand the benevolence of our motives, they will be led to feel that we have the gospel spirit and are laboring for their salvation. “ Of course you will receive these views as simply first impressions. Wherein they conflict with those expressed by others .more experienced, they should doubtless be 16 182 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. regarded with corresponding distrust. I have just come from places where the gospel is drawing multitudes around it, and this may account for the convictions I have ex- pressed.” The greatest number of attendants on the Protestant services at this time was twenty. The Chaldean (papal) priests threatened to excommunicate (one of them actu- ally executed the threat) any of their flock who should even speak with the Americans. The archbishop of the Jacobites (Behnam by name) was secretly hostile, though he did not dare openly to oppose the Protestants. The government, at the instigation of the ecclesiastics, taxed the Protestants much higher than the members of any other Christian sects, and, being so far from Constanti- nople, could disregard frequent firmans with impunity ; just as a former Pasha at Mosul answered the firman, which reserved to the Sultan the right of inflicting capital punishment, by throwing down before the leading men whom he had assembled for that purpose, the heads of all who were then in prison. The taxes being promptly paid, under the influence of the missionaries, it was for the in- terest of the Pasha to protect the Protestants in the un- disturbed enjoyment of their worship. Yet during the great fast of Ramadan, they were not allowed to sing, and their meetings for prayer on the roofs of their houses were sometimes disturbed by the bowlings of the fanatical Moslems. Want of harmony in the church, and that im- perfection of Christian character in its members which must be expected in converts from semi-heathenism, and which we see even in the churches gathered by the apos- tles, — these were sometimes severer trials than any that could come from without. And then most discouraging of all was that general apathy, of which he speaks in the above letter, — that block-like insensibility to spiritual and eternal things, which astonishes the preacher of the gos- pel at home, and is still more distressing to .the faithful THE WOMEN. 183 missionary, wherever men are not moved by the special presence and power of the Holy Spirit. The women, who, in Protestant Christian lands, are usually the most susceptible to religious impressions, were found in Mosul, as they are apt to be found in the East, less accessible, because more degraded and besotted, than the other sex. Mrs. Lobdell thus commiserates the un- happy condition even of the Christian women. “ I long to be able to talk with the degraded women here. Oh, they are so degraded ! Only two women are members of our church. One is the mother of Micha, and the other a middle-aged woman, wife of one of our church mem- bers. They are very exemplary in their lives, and love to come to the prayer-meeting and listen to the truth. Only one of our church-members has a pious wife. The others give no indications of concern for their immortal souls. One of them does not know how to read. The two others can read a little, but I think not understand- ingly. The mother of Micha can not read, and thinks she can not learn now, as her eyes are growing dim. A woman here, as in all heathen lands, is of small consequence. If she attends to her husband’s wants and her children, which few of the women here do, she has fulfilled her mis- sion. The Christian women seldom go to their churches. It is a great shame for a woman to be often seen in the street. But it is no matter whether they go to their churches or not ; for when they do go, they only pray to the Virgin Mary and worship pictures. The priests get their money, which ought to be spent in buying clothing for their half-clad children. It is very difficult to procure little girls to educate. They grow up uneducated, and often marry before they are twelve years old. We have a girls’ school here numbering about fifteen, and a school for boys also.” The following extracts from his diary will show the spirit in which Dr. Lobdell bore disappointment, sick- 184 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. ness, and the various trials of missionary life. “ May 23. Sunday. Preaching by Mr. W. at a little after sunrise. Only twenty hearers — hope my medical practice will open the way to the people. “May 26. Went to see Kos (Priest) Michael’s boy — very sick ; also a poor female teacher. Poverty is scarcely distinguishable from riches among the Christians — they are so plundered, it is policy to conceal. Lucy is tired out. I am in pain from my ear. But we have been blessed. “May 30. Sunday. Went to our chapel. Jeremiah preached. But few present, and half of them asleep. Felt the need of living to God. Oh for his guidance and blessing! Reading journal and letters of Henry Martyn. He says : c How mean does appear in my view com- pared with David Brainerd.’ I agree with him, and hence shall try to live only for the welfare of souls. O for great grace ! “June 3. Very sick and sorrowful. If I knew it were God’s will, I could easily die to-day. I have thought much of what I can do. Perhaps God will show me that he can get along without me. “ July 13. Great crowd at the dispensary. Good done. J3utrus door-keeper. I hope these great numbers will furnish the means of approach to souls. What are the diseases of the body, compared with those of the soul ? “Aug. 1. Greatly taken with Stuart’s Daniel. How learned that man ! When I last saw him, he knew infi- nitely less than now. Rest, glorified spirit ! thy work is well done. “Aug. 8. Evening. On the roof. Brown walls. Dismal place ; but by the stars so clear and bright, I shall soon tread my way to heaven. Then be cheerful, my soul ; faint not, grow in grace, and muse on the rest above. “ Aug. 22. A day of preparation for heaven. Looked at this world and the next. No fear to die ; care not DIARY. 185 which shall come, death or life. Blessed be God for faith in Jesus. This sustains me. I can leave all my cares and friends to him. How little I have done for him ! Well, he can do without me. I am ready to be offered or to live. 4 Thy will be done.’ 44 Aug. 24. A little improved, perhaps, but very weak. What is to be the result of this attack ? I trust it will make me more heavenly-minded, and more careful of my strength. How it should be husbanded here. How would my friends feel, if they knew my situation ? My greatest concern is, that some of them are in the broad road. Oh, turn them to Christ, Divine Spirit, and let us all meet in heaven ! 44 Aug. 25. Able to write out my short diary for four days past. Not much stronger than yesterday. Read an article in Littell on Wellington. Meditated on the bat- tles of Napoleon’s time. Be it mine to make peace. 44 Aug. 27. Have felt very ill to-day. Now (4, P. M.) I am feeling a little better. Have not been able to read to-day. Life, Oh, what is life ! May the rest of my life tell on souls . How little can I do at best. 44 Aug. 29. I am very weak still. My hope is in God. My faith looks up to thee, Thou Lamb of Calvary, Saviour divine. Read Henry Martyn this morning. As he envied Brain- erd’s devotion, so I envy, if it be Christian, his. He lived to effect much. I have done nothing. Must I be taken away without seeing any fruit of my labors ? W ell, be it my chief business now to be ready for my dear Saviour’s coming. O ! my soul, be thou transformed into the like- ness of Christ. I long to depart ; but I am yet desirous to remain. God’s will be done ! 44 Aug. 30. Feel much better ; air cool. Oh ! how good to feel that I am recovering. Now I can do something for the poor souls here. May I not, like Jonah, mourn 16* 186 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. the loss of my gourd, while these Nmevites are perishing. Oh for wisdom and grace ! “ Sept. 12. Sunday. Attended church after three Sabbaths’ absence. Pleasant. Brother Williams preached earnestly on the essence of the gospel. Meditation sweet. Private prayer consoling. Feel more entirely given to Christ than formerly. Yet I cry out, c My lean- ness, my leanness ! ’ My strength is not great ; but my illness is teaching me not to complain of my ills. How much God has favored me ! With whom would I exchange places in the whole earth ? There is not a king or prince living with whom I would make a transfer. Intensely interested in D’Aubigne. Kept Mary in my arms, while Lucy went to church. Sat on roof after tea. Stars far off, but I shall soon visit them.” To this outline of the history of the mission, and of the outward and inward life of Dr. Lobdell, which we have gathered chiefly from his journal, we now append selec- tions from his letters which were written during the same period, viz., from his arrival at Mosul in May, 1852, to the close of the year. They are arranged in the order of their dates. Mosul, June 1st, 1852. To Rev. J. Perkins, D. D., Oroomiah, Persia. My Dear Elder Brother : — Y our welcome note of the 4th ult. was as joyfully as it was unexpectedly received. After a tedious voyage and journey of five months, when the heat of a Mosul summer is beginning to come on, and with much to depress the mind, I need not say that words of fraternal greeting and sympathy are twice dear. How universal is the tie of Christian sym- pathy. It is not necessary that one follower of the Redeemer should see the countenance qf another to recognize his spirit ; in Christ, the disciples are one. United to him as their head, they are united with each other as members of the same body. This invisible LETTER TO DR. PERKINS. 187 union of Christians is the pledge and prophecy of ever- lasting joy. In the simple fact that we are laboring together for the same end, there is enough, as yon say, to create in us u a deep interest in our success and welfare ; ” but it is to me a pleasant thought, that I can look back upon the home and friends so dear to you. Amherst, I love tliee well ! Thy missionary sons are all dear to my heart. There is something about that college of peculiar interest to the church of God. I bless him that I was led thither, and that my future was shaped under the mold- ing influence of Prof. Fiske and Dr. Hitchcock. The one has gone to his reward ; the other is soon to go. And we, dear brother, are to come after. How much I owe to them. It is a great change from infidelity to faith in Christ. And though neither of those men can know the extent to which their godly lives and scientific demon- strations of divine truth contributed to turn my thoughts to the matter of personal religion and consecration to the missionary work, still I delight to think of the time, when on “ the mount of God,” we shall converse together of these things. Perhaps the fact of your having 'gone to Persia had much to do with my leaving the land of my birth. Thus it is we are constantly touching springs that move the mass of mind. There is then some reason why we should attach some interest to the simple fact of our having come from the same college hill. I would not unduly magnify it ; for well do I recollect the pleasure I had in communing with brother Stoddard, when in America. Indeed, we are all one in Christ Jesus ; and it is my prayer that in the relation we sustain as members of adjacent missions, we may ever feel that we have a common object and ever be animated with a desire for the glory of our Master. We found the state of things here less encouraging than we had been led to expect. The number of hearers does not exceed twenty, and there appears to be a dead- 188 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. ness to religious truth very unlike the state of things among the Armenians. But these Jacobites and Chal- deans are to be converted to God, and we will have faith. At the time of your visit there were many things to encourage. But ecclesiastical opposition and civil oppres- sion have done much to retard the work. A time of trial, however, is often the seed-time of a glorious harvest. I am glad to know that the brethren of your mission are all encouraged still, and that you have so much evi- dence of the presence of God. May he never forsake you. TO THE SAME. Mosul, June 16th, 1852. Rev. Dr. Perkins, Dear Brother : — We received letters last week from some of the native brethren of Diarbekr, requesting us to use our influence with Mr. Rassam and the Pasha here to secure redress for an act of violence. Before Mr. Dun- more left for Erzeroom, it seems, he married a Syrian girl to a Protestant, with the consent of her father, mother, and uncle. The next day her brother came into the city from a village, and began to show his indignation by taking her case before the Pasha. The Pasha referred the matter to the bishop, who asked the girl whether she was Syrian or Protestant. She replied that she was not a Protestant then ; whereupon he married her at once to a Jacobite ! The case is important, as the bishop threat- ens to annul all the marriages performed by Dr. A. Smith, while he was in Diarbekr. The work there is deeply interesting, but full of perplexity and trials. It is hoped that the appointment of another Pasha will not long be delayed. As to matters in Mosul, there is nothing occurring of very special interest. My dispensary is pretty well patronized. Brother Williams opens the dispensation with reading the Testament and prayer. I am glad to TO IIIS BROTHER. 189 say, that the brethren appear to be getting awake. The people on the Boohtan are needing attention. You will remember me, if yon please, to brother Stod- dard, and assure him of the fact that I am one , whom his earnest appeals, while in America, very much affected. TO IIIS BROTHER. Mosul, June 16tli, 1852. My Dear Brother Frank : — As to your advice not to kill the Arabs at first, I can only say, that their bodies are of such peculiar make, that I have succeeded in killing only two since I have been here. It is but justice to add, however, that these two would have died sooner than they did, had they not received some American physic. I find that the peojile consider me a sort of magician. Often, as I ask them, “What is the matter?” they say, “You know,” and say no more. The touching of their pulse has a mysterious j30wer. I am very confident, as Dr. Mott told me it would be, that I do twice as much good here by my knowledge of medicine, as I could without it. But after all, if the practice of medicine is not made subser- vient to the higher purpose of religious instruction and impression, it is of comparative insignificance. The med- icine for the soul is of infinitely more importance than that for the body. Hence the necessity that every medical missionary shall have a thorough theological training. To secure this, a collegiate course is almost indispensable. I do not regret that I worked my way through Amherst College. I am very sure that even here it pays. Do not think that the best acquirements will not be serviceable on missionary ground. The man who has not force of character enough to do well at home, can never do much as a missionary. He will have more per- plexing questions to solve there than at home, and he will have far less counsel and advice. Therefore let me say, again, that you should bring your 190 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. mind, as soon as Providence permits, to a decision respect- ing your place of labor, and then prepare yourself for that. If I had known that I should come to Mosul, I never should ha ve studied Spanish or German ; but should have given more time to French, and a good deal more to Italian. I am very well contented here, and am sure I shall do more for the everlasting good of men than I should have done in the United States. What is fame ? Ask the buried dead in their sepulchers of Nineveh. I am glad you are going into the temperance question. Study your speeches. Talk methodically. Dress plain. Be earnest; be holy. So much advice I have given you and my sheet is full. My prayers do not fail to go up for your welfare, and for the dear sisters and friends in America. I shall not look upon them again in the flesh. I pray that I may meet them on the Mount of God. TO DR. PERKINS. Rev. J. Perkins, D. D. My Dear Brother: — Yesterday was our post day, and having dispatched some missives to America, I had sat down to read the Koran, when not less to my joy than to my surprise, the package from Oroomiah was announced. With the mercury up stairs at 112°, you may believe that we retreated to our cool serdab to spend an hour in the perusal of those pleasant letters. Your parcel was thrice welcome, for I had sweet com- munion thereby with those dear professors in my Alma Mater. How my heart clings to Prof. T — . That instructive epistle of his was read by me, I am sure, with quite as much interest as by yourself. I was glad too to see again that little-bodied but broad-minded Professor of Zoology, and hear again the reason for his belief in that doctrine of a plurality of Adams. lie has one of the LETTERS. 191 keenest and most logical minds I ever met. How I wish lie could take that trip to the East he so much desires. We sent Jeremiah up to Diarbekr about three weeks ago, and last post brought us intelligence from him. He had an interesting visit at Mardin, though from his zeal in making known the truth, he was threatened with banish- ment from the place. Matters in Diarbekr were in a less troubled state than we had been led to fear. He will talk considerably in the Boohtan on his return. We need a work of grace, here, such a work as you have had in Oroomiah — this only will make our converts zealous and strong, and bring opposers to the foot of the cross. We expect to see that day ; but if we die without the sight, we are confident that the day will come. At present there is a good deal of stagnation. Perhaps our occasional remarks and prayers at the dispensary are not in vain. It is so hot, that we find it difficult to keep up our Wednesday and Saturday evening meetings. We hold them on the roofs. Brother Williams is a statistical man, and will no doubt tell you how the mercury has ranged here thus far this summer. I hung a thermom- eter in the sun the other day, and the heat soon snapped it. I was not mindful at the time, that it was marked for only 120°. The mercury has been above 150° in the sun here, and several days last week it stood at 115° in the shade. The air is very dry, and like that from an oven. I never knew what power the sun lias, till I came to Mosul. TO REV. G. W. COAN, GAWAR. Mosul, Aug. 4th, 1852. Dear Brother Co an : — I hope you will have no more such deeply interesting intelligence to communicate as your last contained. I had the impression that Mosul was the worst place in the world ; indeed that was the chief reason Dr. Anderson begged me off from Fuh Chau. I had consulted with Mr. Merrick, formerly of Oroomiah, 192 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. about the nature of life in Gawar, and at one time was about to put in a strong plea to the Prudential Committee to send me thither instead of to Mosul. You will remem- ber, they advertised for a physician for that place. But if you are never to have a house to live in, and are to have men shot down before the door of your hut frequently, I shall, perhaps, have special occasion to thank God for sending me a little farther to the south. I got some faint idea of a village in Koordistan in a recent visit to Tel-Keif. I was called out there — a donkey ride of about three hours — to see some very sick persons ; and after traveling about the village till midnight, looking at the sick and dying, I stretched myself upon a roof to sleep. Every house in the place appeared to have two or three wide-awake curs, and their constant yelping, together with the vigorous bites of the mosquitoes and the fleas, induced me to get up in half an hour and start for Mosul. I suppose Tel-Keif is a magnificent place for Koordistan — what then is Gawar ? I can sympathize with you in your privations and trials, and pray that you may soon get a strong foothold in that realm of Satan and his vicegerent the Pope. W ould n’t some of that snow, piled up near you, find a warm welcome in Mosul ? It is so cold to-day, that I begin to fear the summer is nearly past. I doubt if the mercury gets above 110° ! It has risen to 115° frequently of late. Last night I was sufficiently cool, though I suppose the mercury would have shown the air in my sleeping room at 90° or 93°. The body becomes very susceptible to the influence of the cold after being heated so tremendously for a month. The skin is exceedingly sensitive ; indeed, a sheet of water hangs about the body all day. The pores are all wide open. I pray that the dreadful scourge now sweeping over the plain of Oroomiah may not visit you nor us. What fearful havoc it would make in this climate. The cholera and plague have done their dreadful work here in days LETTER TO MR. STODDARD. 193 past. The city is now becoming restored to its former condition, and for the sake of the poor natives, as well as our own, we pray that the cholera may not soon come again. I do not yet see that Mosul ought not to be occupied by our Board. There are some fifty thousand sinners here, and though the work for the present must necessa- rily be slow, it is destined to go forward. The bishop of the Jacobites forbids his flock to come near us, but they are gathering courage. Formerly the Chaldean priests would not salute Kos Michael or any of our people ; but now we are all on a good footing with them. W e only need a refreshing from on high to enable us to bear patiently all our trials, and to nerve us for our work. TO REV. DAVID STODDARD, OROOMIAH. Mosul, Aug. 5th, 1852. Dear Brother Stoddard: — I had just finished all my letters for the messenger but yours, when Brother Williams handed me your very valuable letter of June 26th. He wishes to despatch the postman in a few minutes, and though I should be very happy to waive all ceremony, agreeable to your suggestion, I am unable at this time to write you a very long letter. My soul grew to you in America, and you are not changed materially, I apprehend, in Oroomiah. Do you remember my finding you at the Tontine in New Haven, and your telling me that you went there to avoid conversation with friends? I did not think at that time, I should ever be settled so near you. But I rejoice to be here, and to know that in our loneliness we have the sympathies of kind friends beyond the mountains as Avell as beyond the seas, who will take delight in trying to smooth for us our thorny way, or at least scatter flowers by its side. There is no joy like that of Christian communion. u Blest be the tie that binds ” us together. May we be one in spirit, as we are one in aim. When you said once, “ It is sweet to be a 17 194 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. missionary,” I dropped my head and wept. Yes, brother, I find it so. This consciousness that we have followed our Lord’s will, that we are not living unto ourselves but unto him who died for us and rose again — oh! what better thing is there on the earth? I feel that I have too little of that spirit which Christ manifested in behalf of man ; but it is comforting to know that if we are his, we shall one day awake in his likeness. The likeness of Christ ! The same image ! How great the change ! How bright the glory ! It is enough, then, that Christ is ours. We will toil on till he calls us home. Our community seems to be encouraged. I see no reason for despondency. We need to be filled with the Holy Ghost, and then why can’t we preach the gospel here as Peter probably did on his way to Babylon ? Per- haps Thomas labored here, as well as Jonah — this proves the practicability of our laboring here, does it not? It remains to be seen whether we shall be burned out [by the summer heat]. I am not anxious about that. Let the Lord direct. TO REV. J. II. SEELYE, SCHENECTADY, N. Y. Mosul, Sept. 10, 1852. My ever dear Ciium and Brother : — ... I must come to personal affairs in Mosul. For the geography, antiquities, &c., I must refer you to the books, premising that my ambition to write some big thing, has departed. I am quite content to attend to my appropriate work. If conversation or recreation shall enable me to develop any new thing, I will not despise it ; but my aim henceforth, by the grace of God, shall be to save souls. For three weeks I have been confined to my bed, or at least to my house. At one time I thought it probable I should die. My mind was calm. I had come hither in obedience to the call of God ; he would take care of my wife and child ; to him I commited them and myself. lie has raised me up ; I hope it is for some good purpose I have been TWENTY-FOUR HOURS IN NINEVEH. 105 afflicted. Severe exertion brought me down. A hun- dred patients daily and a heat of 105° to 115° were too much. Yesterday was the first day since the 23d of June that the mercury did not go above 100°. Seventy-eight days and nights oven-like ! You will not wonder that I melted. It is trying when the bed-clothes burn you, and the morning is more oppressive than any noon in Amer- ica. Still we are happy. Our work is plenty, and, we hope, slowly progressing. We may have to retreat to Oroomiah — a journey of nine days through Dr. Bacon’s Koords — next summer. B}" the way, the money they took from him and his party has been returned. Layard gives a fair view of the ruins of Nineveh. But I can not stay to tell you my feelings as I walked through the palace of Sennacherib. As a recreation, I expect to ]3ay a visit with Mr. Bass am to the Sheitani or Devil- worshipers, at Sheikh Adi — three days distant — in a week or two. This is a very interesting region to the church historian and antiquary. The old churches are deader than the gospel-dealers were before Luther’s day. May a reformer arise! We make good progress in the Arabic. Lucy and Mary are in excellent health. The little one is a great comfort to us ; she begins to chatter and walk nicely. We have no occasion to repent coming hither ; nevertheless we are constantly looking away from our miserable sun-burnt abode to that house not made with hands — that city whose builder and maker is God. TO HIS BROTHER. Mosul, Oct. 19th, 1852. Dear Brother Frank : — Shall I write you an account of twenty-four hours in modern Nineveh? The first business in the morning was an operation for hemorrhoids. Then Deacon Jeremiah had ar friend he wished me to visit. We found her in a room about eight feet by ten, on the floor of course — perhaps not half a 196 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. dozen families in Mosul use bedsteads — all spread rugs or coarse mats on the floor or ground, and generally roll them up and lay them away during the day. She was sur- rounded by a dozen women anxious for her recovery. She said she had a fright in the night by the fall of a looking-glass, which broke at her feet. A fright or hobtah is the most common cause of disease here. I assured her of her speedy restoration to health, and wrote a prescription which my clever assistant, Ablahad, would put up at the dispensary, and charging her not to lay the physic up on the shelf, left to accompany Deacon Elias Fuez, (a native brother from Beyroot, who has come to take Salome thither,) to Koyunjik. We started, and Thoma and Suleiman donkeyed behind us. A rapid gal- lop soon brought us through a crowd of camels, donkeys, and mules, and piles of cucumbers and melons, to the mound. This, according to C. J. Rich, formerly English Consul at Bagdad, is 178 feet in its greatest height, 1,850 feet from east to west, and 1,147 from north to south. It stands about midway of the ruined wails of Nineveh on the river side, a short distance north of Nebbi Yunus, or the mound of the prophet Jonah. Out of this latter, a number of sculptures have been taken, and last week, in digging a cellar, a large bull was found. The Pasha, 1 am told, sent men to break the monster in pieces, to pre- vent the English and French from digginginto the sacred jirecincts. About thirty men, Jebour Arabs for the most part, are now employed by the English in excavating at Koyunjik. Latterly, nothing has turned up but blocks inscribed with cuneiform characters. The western part of the mound has been pretty thoroughly explored, and trenches are still open in all directions. The slabs are somewhat in- jured by exposure to the air and water, yet hundreds of feet still remain of the great halls, that Sennacherib built for the satisfaction of his pride. The large winged bulls SCULPTURES. 197 now remaining (several have been removed to London) arc cracked and show the effects of fire, as do many of the slabs. The slabs are about six feet high and eight feet long, and they line the halls. Exquisitely wrought sculptures of battle scenes — warriors armed with spears, bows, arrows, swords, and slings, and holding the heads of victims in their hands, — gigantic deities with the arms of a man, the head of a dragon and stoutly horned, — splendid horses led by grooms — swimmers and fish — palm-trees and grape-vines thick with clusters — captives, perhaps from Jerusalem, tied together by their waists or handcuffed; — who would not wish to read the inscrip- tions on the bulls and learn the true import of these fig- ures ? These sculptures are about fifteen or twenty feet below the surface, and in the mass of clay above, pieces of pot- tery, fragments of carved stones, and pieces of coals are sometimes seen. We knocked off a few specimens of the gypsum containing arrow-headed characters, and suppose they will be interesting to our friends in Beyroot. Although I had visited this place before, it had a fresh interest. At some future day, I shall write out, if I get time, a full account of the ruins and relics. At 4 P. M. we were at home, and I visited the dispen- sary as usual. Little Mary has been suffering some days with ophthal- mia, and Lucy has become quite fatigued. All last night, we were much disturbed by her cries. She buries her face in the pillows, and sleeps on her knees. Half the people are, sometime or other, sufferers from this disease. Many eyes are entirely lost. A crowd of patients every morning sit in my court, and as I mount my horse for exercise or visiting, I have gen- erally half a dozen arms thrust into my face, that I may feel their pulses. I forgot to mention one item of yesterday’s doings. A 17 * 198 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Moslem dignitary, with a couple of black attendants, was forcing his way into my bed-room for medicine, when Thoma called on him to desist, upon which the dignitary struck him over the head. I was informed of this, and at once sent for Mr. Rassam to attend to the matter. He despatched his cavass or official servant, to the Pasha, who sent a soldier and imprisoned the Bey. The punish- ment was left to my pleasure. There is no statute law in Turkey. Before the Tanzimat, a Pasha could imprison without any charge being brought. I thought the man had better reflect on the fact, that although we Americans do not have a train of armed servants around us, we can nevertheless have justice done us ; and so I let him sleep in prison last night. His relatives came this morning to beg his release. TO REV. DR. ANDERSON. Mosul, Oct. 20th, 1852. Rev. R. Anderson, D. D. My Dear Sir : — Frequent rides outside of the walls of the city,* prepared me for a visit to Nebbi Yunus, the village around the tomb of our illustrious predecessor, and now the theater of the Pasha’s antiquarian researches ! A few days after, Mr. Williams accompanied me to Nim- ' roud. Shenunas Ereemiah (Deacon Jeremiah) also went with us, that we might bear the gospel to the Jacobites of Bartulli, and the Syrians of Kara-Kosh. The exces- sive heat and a terrible fright occasioned by the approach of forty mounted Arabs twirling their long spears and shouting their battle-cry, while we were sitting down in the tomb of Sardanapalus to dine, induced us to mount our horses in haste and turn their heads towards Mosul. We thus lost the opportunity to preach to the people in those villages, but lioj^e to make another attempt, as soon * While recovering from the sickness of which he speaks in the former part of the letter. BUYING CONVERTS. 199 ns the weather becomes cool enough to allow of comfort- able travel. Much lias been said about the inability of the Mosul- lees to understand the publications of the Beyroot press, but so far as I have been able to learn, the only difficulty is that a higher order of Arabic is employed in the books, than in conversation. Nations of different Arabic locali- ties have no difficulty in comprehending each other’s meaning, when brought together. I think you may take it as a settled matter, that the issues of the present Arabic press will become intelligible, wherever the language is spoken, when the minds of the people are a little elevated. And previous to that, the voice of the living preacher must be heard. Dr. Kalley found the conversion of the Arabs much more difficult than that of the Portuguese. The latter could read already or were easily taught, while the former have a deep aversion to study. It is no part of their education. Of course, the perusal of spiritual books at this day is essential to the progress of the truth ; and it is pleasant to know, that very many works are dis- posed of even in Mosul. The city is a central place, and we have many opportunities to make ourselves and our work known in the villages from the Zakho to the Zab. A short time since, three Chaldeans from the Tiyari came to us, and stated that they had been deputed by their brethren, to come to Mosul and learn if it was true that the Americans pay the salian,* of every Protestant con- vert, and give him two hundred piastres a month besides ! If so, they were authorized to treat for the capitulation of their village. Should we offer a pecuniary inducement, I have no doubt, that very soon Protestants would be sufficiently numerous among the flocks of the Jesuit and Jacobite bishops. Paul never bought anybody to be a Christian, and his example is safe. The Aowse-tax of fifty piastres annually. 200 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Our little community stand together manfully. We find more engagedness on their part in the great work, than was apparent in the early part of the summer. They are beginning to feel an individual responsibility. The attendance at our evening meetings is considerably in- creased. The threat of excommunication uttered a few Sabbaths since by a Chaldean priest against every mem- ber of his church, who should dare to visit or to speak with the Americans, has had the usual effects of such attempts ad terrorem . Mutran Behnam, the Jacobite Archbishop, is too cunning to threaten his people ; he takes the images out of his church, preaches somewhat evangelically, and thus persuades his flock, that they are sure enough of salvation, if they remain in their own communion. He has not a particle of sincerity, but is crafty and resolute in his efforts to secure the patriarchate. All he wants is office and money. He would sell himself to us for ten dollars a month ; indeed, he has made that offer. Is not this a strong indication that he fears our influence among his people ? For so much evidence of our pros- perity, we thank God and take courage. Shemmas Elias Fuez of the Beyroot church came here about a fortnight since for Salome, who is soon to marry John Wortabet of Hasbeiya ; and he has been very faith- ful to our brethren in his sermons and conversations. He has done us much good ; it would be worth a great deal to us, if we had with us permanently a native preacher like him, an example of cleanliness, ability, and devotion. The best way to convince the Yezidees, Moslems, and even native Christians of the truthfulness and value of our Protestant doctrines, will be to give them a proof in the general thrift, neatness, and honesty of a truly Chris- tian community. We pray for such a regeneration as shall change the outer as well as the inner man. Let in- tegrity and industry become a general characteristic of Protestants here as in Aintab, and we shall not need to faint even with a heat of 115 °. VALUE OF TIIE CHRISTIAN IIOFE. 201 What work can be pleasanter than to instruct and guide an ignorant and deluded people in the doctrines of the Bible and the reformation ! Already we begin to see the legitimate effects of free thought and bold inquiry. The shackles are breaking. Pray with us, that the liberty with which Christ makes his children free, may be enjoyed by all these priest-ridden people. As a place of ease and physical enjoyment, give me the meanest cottage in the most secluded part of New England for a home, in prefer- ence to the best palace in Mosul ; but as a spot whereon to build a structure to the glory of God, and fulfill the mission of the Christian, I ask no better place than this adopted home. TO REV. W. S. SCOFIELD, DANBURY, CT. Mosul, Oct., 1852. My Dear Brother Scofield : — ... Have I told you that I was kept to my bed-room for three weeks, last month ? At one time I stood very near the grave. I looked into it, but it had no terrors. Not that I felt any conviction of my personal holiness. God knows I feel myself unfit to join in the melodies of heaven. But I realized the preciousness and power of the Saviour’s blood ; I knew that I placed my salvation in it, and “ he that believeth in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ shall be saved.” Oh, the infinite value of faith in him at such an hour ! If the Sultan, the Czar or Victoria had offered me the throne of empire for my hope, they could not all have purchased it. The Christian’s treasure is not comqDtible ; the bank of God never breaks ! I still live ; but oh ! what is life, my brother ? It is worth little but as a time for getting ourselves and others ready for the kingdom. Preach “ as a dying man,” and let no blood be in your skirts in the day of account. Oh that your hearers, my townsmen, many of them my per- sonal friends, would all “look to Jesus ” and be saved! Let our little church be a burning and a shining light ; 202 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. it matters not whether the wealthy sit in her seats ; “ unto the poor the gospel is preached.” This is emphatically the case in these lands. So it was in the time of Christ and his apostles — so it is now. Oh the deceitfulness of riches ! I look over these multitudes in Mosul, and from the rich, proud Moslem Bey down to the meanest beggar I see scarcely a descent. If anything, the lowest part of the inclined plane supports that which is highest in the sight of the world. From a higher point of view, all are alike sinners, and need a Saviour’s blood. It is a law in Turkey that has few exceptions, the larger a man is, the more of a knave. A Moslem thinks nothing of beating; a Christian any time. I was called the other day to see a Christian’s skull, after a Mussulman had given him a public drubbing. He dared not go to the Pasha for re- dress, although in America such an act would subject the offender to a year in the State prison. True Christianity prevailing in a community renders even the noble by birth and wealth respectful towards the poor, and it is a matter of rejoicing that our country shows so many examples of a consecration of fortune to the service of humanity and God. ISTo American is jioor in reality, for he has held out to him the light of life. The heathen are poor; they grope in perpetual darkness. A Yezidee woman told me, the other day, she knew nothing about Christ — the women of her race never prayed — the men only once a year ! What will you think, when I say that, even this once, they pray only to the Devil ! It does one’s soul good to be here amid so much sin and j^ollution. The eye looks upward to the everlasting hills. As for us, we must ripen for the kingdom fast. God help us while you pray. I did not expect a long life when I left America ; I am fully persuaded it will be a short one. But with the grace of God it will be long enough ; and then it will be so sweet resting after the work is done ! Let such a thought cheer you, dear brother, in your arduous toils. LETTER TO DR. HITCHCOCK. 203 TO REV. E. HITCHCOCK, D. D., LL. D., PRESIDENT OF AMHERST COLLEGE. Mosul, Mesopotamia, Nov., 1852. Pres. Hitchcock. My Dear Sir : — By the last post I received a letter from my cousin, Mr. H. N. Barnum, and in it he stated that you had requested him to inquire of me, if I could send some specimens from the ruins of Nineveh for the college cabinet. It will give me the greatest pleasure to select something of interest, and presuming that your remark to Mr. B. was made with some understanding of the diffi- culty of transportation, I shall not hesitate to incur the necessary expense. Could I send you the specimens at my own expense, I should be very glad ; but you know, we missionaries are expected to receive only what is necessary to feed and clothe us. I am almost afraid that, in your land of railroads, you will think the cost exceeds the value. Please remember the blocks must ride some five hundred miles on the backs of animals, and some five thousand on the sea. So, as it will be some weeks before I can get the loads ready, you will do me a favor by intimating whether you wish some large or only small specimens. And yet I think I shall just pack up ichat you ought to have, and let you look to some benefactor, like Williston, for the wherewithal to pay mule-drivers and the ship-captain. Bless God for benefactors. If your college had had none, I should not have been here. I never shall forget that evening, my dear father in the gospel, when you kindly told me, as I was about to leave college for the want of funds, not to despair — “ some way will open ; look to God ; have no desire but to do his will and — wait.” I waited, and then resolved from my inmost heart to preach the gospel and trust in God. You were a father to me in college, and may God 204 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. reward you for your kindness. I owe no man more than you. I am glad the trustees will not accept of your offer of resignation — you can not be spared from the presiden- tial chair. Your labors are abundant, but your reward will be proportionate. My pen refuses to say all that my heart prompts ; suffice it that I acknowledge myself eter- nally indebted to you. I have had no occasion to regret coming to Mosul. There is a great field here, and it is whitening. Send us the reapers. P. S. The geology of this region is quite peculiar; are you acquainted with it? P. S. No. 2. Jan. 1st, 1853. This note was sent back from Constantinople, more than half way to America, and is to start again on Monday. The blocks will be got under way soon. TO DR. PERKINS. Mosul, Nov. 3d, 1852. Rev. Dr. Perkins. Dear Brother : — After returning from Sheikh-Adi, I was attacked by a severe cold, and am still suffering someyvhat from the effects of an inflammation of the mem- branes surrounding the brain. While on my bed the other day, I took up the journal of the American Oriental Society, and it occurred to me that I might ask a ques- tion or two of you regarding your article on a visit to Mosul, with profit to myself at least. I do not write as a reviewer, but as an inquirer. My first query is : On the supposition that the river washed the walls of the city in the days of its glory,* have you any way of accounting for the existence of the iron clamped dam across the Tigris near Nimroud. It seems pretty evident, that the dam, the remains of which are still magnificent, must * The mounds are now at some distance from the hank of the river. CAPTAIN LOFTTJS. 205 have been made in order to turn the water near Selamiych over the plain. It would have given great facilities for irrigation. You arc aware that quite a garden lines the river now, near the bend at the northwest angle of the plain. . . . The native idea, that it (the dam) was a foot- path for Nimrod to visit the Hamam Ali, or Sulphur Springs, the other side, will hardly satisfy a Yankee. . . . What do you think of the idea, that the “ exceed- ing great city of three days’ journey,” has reference to Jonah’s preaching through the various streets ? If that idea is tenable, Nineveh would have been large enough without Khorsabad and Nimroud. Pass over these queries as hastily as you please in reply, and allow me to say, that I derived great pleasure from the perusal of your journal. We had a visit from Mr. Loftus some days since. I saw a few of his coins from Susa. I suppose you saw them. He is a very pleasant man. lie surely has a claim to our gratitude for his efforts to benefit our Gawar breth- ren. He has gone to investigate the great Assyrian bury- ing ground near the confluence of the Euphrates and the Tigris. Mr. Ilormuzd Rassam has just returned from England with instructions to pursue investigations under Col. Rawlinson’s direction. Dec. 3d. Mr. Williams has gone to Diarbekr, taking Micha with him. Last night, about eleven o’clock, our little Mary was taken with a cough, which greatly resem- bled an attack of croup. I gave her medicine, and thought of your beloved Judith, who also crossed the sea. I have felt much for you, ever since I heard of your daughter’s death, and I trust my prayers have been fervent that God would give you consolation. Mary is better to-day, and we hope she may not be seriously ill. You must have had a very interesting communion season, when all the members of your mission were together. Such are heav- enly places in Christ J esus. One of your deacons preached for us half a day, when they were here. We were pleased 18 206 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. with them. They accompanied brother W. as far as Jezireh. TO RET. J. W. SEELYE. Mosul, Nov. 4th, 1852. My Dear Brother J. : — I have no reason and no right to doubt, that in deciding your course of life, you have had sole reference to the question, how you can best promote the divine glory on the earth. Your decision disagrees, indeed, with my convictions ; for no educational interest in America can have, at present , so strong a claim upon a preacher of the gospel, as the lost condition of the heathen. There will always be men enough to accept posts of honor ; there are too few will- ing to enter places of secluded toil and great hardship. Let the best scholars of our colleges, for a single genera- tion, seek to convert the heathen to Christ by direct labors among them, and the time would not be distant, when their salvation would become the prominent consideration of the church. It would return more to its apostolic char- acter, and,l>oth at home and abroad, the gospel would have free course, and be glorified. But you have not a particle of doubt, that “ your present plans are in the line of duty.” That is enough for me. . . . By the way, why do n’t you. have the “ Rational Pyschology ” * put into German while at Halle. It would flourish better among the philosophers, surely, than among the practical utilitarians. I am convinced it is a great work. After all, Albert Barnes is doing more for human- ity in his simple commentaries. The truth is, there is a great practical conviction in all western minds of the truth of Christianity. Hegel and others may get up a party, but they can not triumph over the instincts of an enlight- ened people. Still, as there are not many men who can * Dr. Hickok’s. ASSYRIAN PALACES. 207 philosophize, I don’t know as one should object to the success of a few ! What do you hear about those inscriptions along the supposed route of the Israelites ? Dr. F., a semi-donkey, of England, says, they are Arabic, and proves that the Hebrews used that language in Egypt ! The arrow-headed inscriptions are very plentiful through- out the valley of the Tigris, and there is every reason to suppose, that a complete history of the land will soon be made out, and that it will confirm the allusions of the biblical writers to the state of things before and subse- quent to the captivity. I have visited most of the mounds, where excavations have been made, and need only refer you to Layard and Botta for faithful delineations of the discoveries. I have walked through the palace of Sennacherib at Koy- unjik, hid in the tomb of Sardanapalus at Nimroud, to escape a band of mounted Arabs, gazed on the majestic bulls in the palaces of Pul and Esarhaddon, and taken a rough view of the relics of the dynasty of the Khorsabad kings. These antiquities are deeply interesting, and I might write a long account of my excursions to the mounds, and their contents. But I choose to refer you to the books, and to wait and answer any special inquiries you may wish to make. At present, I will only say, that a block some ten by fourteen feet, and a foot and a half thick, was lately discovered at Nimroud, bearing on each side a complete record of the later dynasties of the em- pire. The lists of kings are complete. We have a variety of sects, — Jacobites, Syrians, Chal- deans, and a few Nestorians, all in Mosul; and besides these we can find Yezidees, or devil-worshipers, Koords that are sun-worshipers, Koords Mohammedanized, and a host of bigoted born Moslems. The field is open and wide. We have frequent calls from inquirers ; but, of course, pre- judices are very strong, especially since Mr. Badger, who 208 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. was here some two years ago, did all he could, as he admits in his late volumes, to show the native Chris- tians, that he had no connection with the Independents from America, and that their faith is the high road to infidelity. His influence is dying out, and we expect to make an impression here, that shall be permanent. We have formed a distinct Protestant community, as the only safeguard for our followers against severe persecution ; but their number is as yet not more than twenty. Hav- ing protection from the English Consul, we are not insulted here, as I was in Diarbekr ; and our great, if not only enemy is — as in Christendom — the carnality of the heart. We are about to open a book-store, and to devote our- selves exclusively, if possible, to getting at men’s hearts. Every pill must have its attendant tract and appeal. TO REV. D. STODDARD, OROOMIAH. Mosul, Dec. 3d, 1852. Dear Brother Stoddard: — We are not in the midst of a great commotion, nor in a dead calm. The surface is doubtless more quiet than the depths. People frequently call upon us for the purpose of conversation on religious topics, in spite of the threats of excommunication uttered by their clergy. But it seems very hard work to give any of them a conception of the true nature of sin. Religion is with them so much a matter of business, that it has lost all sacredness ; and I sometimes wish there was a sprink- ling of infidelity among them, that we might be able, with God’s help, to excite an earnestness of inquiry that should enlist the conscience as well as the intellect. Perhaps you have the same difficulty ; though I have been accustomed to think the Nestorians more susceptible to religious emo- tions than many other communities. I am getting more and more in love with these j^eople. I was a little disappointed when I came here, having passed through Aintab and Diarbekr ; but I now feel that LETTER TO MR. STODDARD. 209 I would not exchange my place of labor for any other in the world. I can but think, that this is a center of great importance in relation to the villages of the plain. I have recently removed my medicines to my own house, and with the assistance of Kos Michael, by seeing each patient privately, the matter of salvation is pressed upon all — Moslem, Chaldean, Jacobite and Jew. I some- times see indications of a solemnity and interest truly en- couraging. I have sent for some thousands of short tracts from Beyroot, and hope to use them to advantage. The sudden deaths of brother Sutphen and Mrs. Morgan* — both lovely Christians — make me feel that what I do must be done quickly. Yet my great temptation is to wear myself out too fast. What wisdom, as well as grace, we missionaries need. Your Gawar station is truly in peril ; I am glad, though, our brethren returned to their post — on the same princi- ple, I suppose, that we Northerners oppose the observance of the fugitive slave law, preferring to take the penalty . The command of Christ to preach the gospel to every crea- ture, is more authoritative than such an order as our brethren received from the corrupt Turks. And then, too, they do not violate the conditions of their firman. I suspect you will see pretty clearly from this matter the necessity, brothers Williams and Marsh were under, of forming a Protestant community. Mr. Loftus desired a kind remembrance to the Ameri- cans over the hills. He went to Baghdad, but was forced by the Arabs to abandon his design of excavating in the great Assyrian burying ground near Hillah.f He has left for England. Your account of your astronomical observations^ was * The former was his fellow-voyager; the latter was at Malta when he ar- rived there. t In 1854, he resumed and completed the exploration of Warka, and found it to be indeed “ a vast cemetery.” See Travels in Chaldea and Susiana, chap. XIV t Mr. Stoddard found the air so clear, that he could seethe satellites of Jupitef with the naked eye, and communicated the fact to Sir J. Herschel. 18 * 210 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. very interesting. I shall he trying my eyes here. What philosophical difficulty is there in our low position ? Your letter to Sir J. Herschel, I have no doubt, will be appre- ciated by him and by the world. Mr. Dunmore is back to his post, and says he hopes good from the new Pasha. TO HIS BROTHER. Mosul, Dec. 8th, 1852. Dear Brother Frank: — I promised in my last letter to our mother, to give you by next post some account of a recent trip to Tel Keif. This is a large village of Chal- deans — papal Nestorians — about nine miles north of Mosul, on the east side of the river. I was sent for to visit the sick wife of the Kiayah , or mayor of the town. Some successful powders that I left there, have given me quite as large a reputation for medical ability as I care to have cherished. Almost daily some one calls on me from that place for medicine, and I have the satisfaction of being the means of removing the great prejudice of the people against the Protestants, whose fame has spread all over the plain. Arrived at Tel Keif, the black-faced Kiayah embraced me with quite as much warmth as I desired, and respect- fully saluting Jeremiah, who accompanied me, and for whom, as a Protestant, he had long entertained the great- est contempt, he led us by an entrance common to horses, donkeys and women, into his wife’s sick room. I could see nothing but “ the blackness of darkness ” at first, but at length, by the aid of a dim taper and the uncovered holes in the wall, I discovered her, lying on the mat, and surrounded by about a score of sorrowing women. The people now crowded in, and crammed the whole place. As soon as I touched the woman’s pulse and saw her eye, I promised, if God will, (a phrase always used here on such occasions, and indeed on all occasions of doubt, without a TEL KEIF. 211 thought of God,) to restore her. She had had extreme unction performed the evening previous, and the oil was still visible, accomplishing its sanctifying work! A priest was on hand, also, and seemed quite vexed at my determi- nation to save the husband the necessity of giving him a thousand piastres for prayers over her soul, after she had given it forth to God. A consumptive man who was present drew from me the remark, that his business henceforth was to “ look unto Jesus.” The people expressed their approbation, though the priest might have advised a different resort. I was soon moving through the muddy streets, and en- tering the dark huts of the poor villagers, dispensing pills and papers with an unsparing hand. Some invoked the peace of God upon me, some the blessings of the Virgin, and all were profuse in their demonstrations of respect. A wealthy Christian is always known here by the coins and ornaments on the head, neck, wrists, and ancles of his daughter. I had been prescribing for several in the family of such a man, and was so tormented with the jargon of salaams, blessings, and prayers for the increase of my pos- terity, {house, as they call it,) that I determined to see what idea the people had of a prayer. One woman begged me, for the VirgirHs sake, to give her physic. I asked her why she did not say, for Jesus’ sake. This was beyond her depth. “Which is the greater,” I asked, “Je- sus or Mary ? ” “ Why, the Virgin, of course ; she is his mother .” “Who is greatest, Yesua (Jesus), Miriam (Mary), or Allah (God)?” “Mary and the Father are greater than Christ.” “ How are you to be saved from your sins ? ” “ By prayers to the Virgin.” u I?i the blood of Christ alone” I told her, to the great astonishment of the priest-ridden crowd. I wanted to return to Mosul before night, but the Ida- yah seized me, after the fashion of the land, around the body, and stay I must. After eating awhile upon chickens 212 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. and bread, with the aid of fingers and a lamp, burning oil of sesame, I sat down for a little kaif, \ or pleasure. Jere- miah preached Christ to the crowd, and I explained the mystery of inoculation, and “ the mystery of iniquity.” About nine o’clock, the men dipped their rag tapers into the cup of black oil, (like “ the vessels ” of “ the ten virgins,”) lighted them, and started through the rain and darkness to their homes. I lay down with my clothes on, not to sleep nor to dream — but to scratch ! What a liv- ing sacrifice ! What filth ! What fleas ! In the morning, I gave the great crowd of applicants on the roof the needed medicine, and having taken a second look at the mayor’s wife, started for home. You will find a specimen of Tel Keif officials in the first vol- ume of Layard. The drunken Kiayah who honored him , has given place to my host. CHAPTER XI. Excursion to Sheikh Adi, the seat of the Yezidees, or Devil-worshipers — Their number — Called Heathen — Baadri — Hussein Bey — White Garments — Cleanliness — English Consul — Convent near Al-Kosh — The Monks — The Jereed, and the Shaking of the Spear — Bozan, the Place of Gathering for the General Judgment — Spirit-rappings — The Butcheries of Beder Khan Bey — Sunday — The Locality — Ceremonies — The Dance — Baptism of Chil- dren — The Temple — Doctrines — Sheikh Adi, the Good Principle — Melek Taoos the Evil— His Symbol, a Peacock — A Breakfast with Sheikh Nasir — Reverence Satan — Adore the Sun — Relic of Sabeanism — Schools, &c., at Mosul. D* October, 1852, Dr. Lobclell made an excursion to Sheikh Adi, the seat of the Sheitani, or devil-worshipers. While he was on the ground, he wrote brief notes to Dr. Perkins and Mr. Coan, giving some account of the cere- monies at their annual festival. In December, he pre- pared a fuller narrative of his journey and observations, for the Mission House in Boston ; and in January, 1853, he forwarded to his brother a minute and graphic journal of the excursion, which was published in successive num- bers of the New York Tribune. The last, though very interesting, is too long for these pages. The letter to the Mission House will occupy the present chapter. We have, however, taken the liberty to insert a paragraph or two of special interest, from the columns of the Tribune. Mosul, Dec. 20tli, 1852. Rev. R. Anderson, D. D. Dear Sir : — I intended to give you a few particulars of a visit which the ladies and gentlemen of our station made with myself to the Shrine of the Yezidees, the first week in October, soon after our return ; but the pressure of more important matters prevented. The heat of sum- 214 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. mer had begun to abate, and we were all so prostrated with general debility, that a short journey to the moun- tains of Koordistan seemed no less a duty than a pleasure. I had previously come in connection with some of the reputed devil-worshipers medically, and hoped that the opportunities I should have for free intercourse with the political and religious chiefs of the hundred thousand of these people, a great number of whom assemble at Sheikh Adi in the time of their annual festival, would enable me to form some definite opinion with regard to their religious ob- servances. I desired a sight of the heathen , as the Mosul- leans allow us to call the Yezidees. The Moslems and nominal Christians of Turkey deem themselves the pos- sessors of the whole truth of God, and they have often asked me why I came to teach them, when their neigh- bors need the instruction, which they do not. In this brief account of my visit I can state but few of many facts, which show that the Yezidees form a connecting link be- tween the idolater and the Moslem, and that they differ much less from the Nezrani* than the pride of the latter is willing to acknowledge. W e left Mosul about daybreak, on Friday, the last day of September, and after a wearisome ride over the plain in a northeast direction, arrived at Baadri, the residence of Hussein Bey, the political head of the Yezidees, to re- ceive the respectful salutations of some hundreds of his people, before the hot sun sank behind the distant Sinjar hills across the Tigris.f The officials kissed our hands and treated us with the greatest attention. The white garments of the people at once struck our notice. Their horror of blue , of lettuce, and of bamiyeh , their reverence for the name of Satan, the * Nazarenes. So Christians are called in the East. t A good description of this prince can be found in Layard’s Nineveh and its Remains, vol. l,p. 227. Indeed, his reliable account of the opinions and practices of the Yezidees supersedes all necessity for a lengthy detail of the events of my visit. TIIE CONVENT AT AL-KOSII. 215 peculiar cut of tlicir garments, — all crescent-shaped at the neck, — their love of streams of water, and their ap- parent regard for each other, were soon observable. The next day I breathed, for the first time within five months, a bracing atmosphere that reminded me of the breezes of New England. The western face of the moun- tains from Jesireh to Baasheika is skirted with the villages of these people ; and my observations go to confirm the statement, that cleanliness is half of their religion. They may have rags, but these are pretty sure to be clean. Whereas the Moslems and Christians through the moun- tains appear to consider filthiness the essence of household felicity. The English Consul and his wife had joined us at Tel Keif, and he accompanied me, at my desire, to Rabban Hormuzd, the Chaldean convent near Al-Kosh, which is about three hours west of Baadri. Hussein Bey led the van with his retinue of spearsmen with gay abbas , long spears, shining daggers, and greasy, braided locks, as an escort of honor. At short intervals, we met troops of his people in their Sunday, or, rather, festive “ suits.” All eagerly seized and kissed their chieftain’s hand. It was pleasant to witness their affection for their young pa- triarch, who traces his ancestry back to the Sassanian dynasty. The men all carried guns, and the women gene- rally had a kettle or a baby on their backs. We reached the convent by a precipitous ascent, and forty monks came out to proffer us coffee, fruit, and wine. Kos Elisha generously showed us the coarse pictures of the chapel, the sanctum sanctorum hung with images of female saints, and the graves of the Chaldean patriarchs. Some of them were more than five hundred years old. From one of the tombs, Hussein Bey desired to take a little of the sacred dust celebrated for its febrifuge prop- erties. A tall, gaunt monk handed him some with all the gravity imaginable. Every sect in those regions vene- 216 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. rates the saints of every other sect; Moslems, in time of famine, have been known to come in crowds to Christian priests, and beg them to offer prayers to their sacred dead for the return of plenty. The next month they would not hesitate to bury their daggers in Christian hearts for the propagation of the faith. We took dinner with the head of the convent, who was quite liberal with his new fruits and old liquors. He ex- pressed great indignation at the Italian emissaries for their attempts to introduce the Latin liturgy into their churches, which have hitherto made use of the dead Chal- dee. They are endeavoring to establish a school in Mosul for the instruction of youth in the forms of the popish ser- vice ; but it is not expected they will teach the embryo priests the Latin as a language. If they can only read it, as the priesthood now do the language of their fathers, so as to hide truth from the j> e °pl e ’s eyes, that will be enough. The impression I got of these monks of Rabban Hor- muzd was that which I have received of the priesthood in general in this country, — they have resorted to the convent chiefly as a means of livelihood. They thus avoid taxes, and when they go among the people, are honored with the salutation of “ Rabbi, Rabbi.” The priests wield a tremendous power in this part of Turkey. True, it diminishes, as the light of truth spreads, but the darkness is very thick — so thick, we feel it. Whenever I have asked the question in Mosul, whether of a Papist or Jacobite, if he supposes a single priest in the city sought his office to benefit the people, I have invariably re- ceived the answer — no. It would, therefore, be too charitable to suppose that the monks of the mountains all go through their long prayers from any dee}) conviction of the exceeding sinfulness of sin ; though it is possible, some of them at times feel the necessity of having their iniquities forgiven from some quarter. I could not help SPIRIT-11 A PriJN O s. 217 fooling a special desire to teach one or two of the inquisi- tive among them the way, the truth, and the life, especially when I remembered that our two most efficient native assistants were formerly members of the same convent. Ivos Elisha presented me a cane as we left, little thinking that I was one of those hideous Americans, whose Protes- tant movements had borne terror even to his eyrie in the mountain. On our return from Rabban Ilormuzd to Baadri, we were joined by the red-robed chief of the Deuideh and his train ; and the plain we were crossing afforded a fine opportunity for the skillful horsemen to play the jereed. As they darted swiftly past us to the acting enemy, I en- joyed a sight of that expressive “ shaking of the spear,” at which “ leviathan laugh eth” At Bozan, we saw the place of gathering at the general resurrection, according to the creed of this jieople. The immense plain, stretch- ing north, west and south, would indeed furnish a grand theater for judgment. A score of places, where angels had sat conversing with their prophets, were distinguished by conical piles of burnt gyj)sum, about three feet high, hav- ing a square hole near the top looking toward the south, and a sort of altar at the base, for the nightly lamp. I afterwards saw “the man in black,” who holds direct communication between Sheikh Nasir, the religious head of the Yezidees, and his Satanic Majesty. The doctrine of spirit-rappings is not so new, as some of you Americans suppose. The devil-worshipers here have as good reason for their belief in the messages which this go-between brings from the spirit land, as the spiritualists in America have for the messages of their mediums. The simple- hearted devil-worshipers here are far less bound to the observance of the principles of the inductive philosophy, than the seers of Rochester and Stratford. Before the latter sneer at their brethren in this quarter of the world, let them look at home. The same kind of credulity that 19 218 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. has made these people adopt their curious religious notions, is working among spiritualists and free thinkers in Amer- ica ; it will not be strange if they come to adopt, in many respects, a system like that of the Persian Magi. God will then be a fire ; the stars his manifested essence ; the uni- verse a machine played with by lawless spirits. The sun was just setting, when we returned to Baadri, and the shepherds were leading their immense flocks from the hills to their folds. All carried arms. The Koord and the Arab respect no right but that of might, any more than the Czar or the House of Hapsburg. The shades of evening cast a wild gloom over fort and tree and plain ; a silence disturbed only by the bleating of the flocks and the sullen growl of the watch-dogs on the roofs. A few years since, this quiet spot was the scene of a butchery of the most horrid kind. The cruel Koord has found the Sultan, influenced by England, too strong for him ; and it is hoped the world will never again hear of such atrocities as those of Beder Khan Bey. Sunday was a clear and beautiful day, but too little like a Christian Sabbath ! W omen washing the garments of their lords in the brooks, shepherds watching their flocks, men gathering cotton, and all regardless of the sanctity of the day. The Yezidees observe no day of the week as holy time . The women do not wash on Wednesday , but labor of other kinds is not omitted. Their religious festi- vals are regarded with the greatest respect; but even these, as I shall have occasion to show, are destitute of any observances which to a western mind have any resemblance to true religious worship, unless it be the adoration of His Satanic Highness. W e read the episcopal service * and a sermon, but were constantly annoyed with calls from the officials ; I thought of the Sabbaths and sanctuaries of my native land — the great and silent congregation, the devotion, the intellect- * Thus uniting with the English Consul. THE WORSHIP. 219 ual repast, the solace of the gospel of peace, the warnings of a coming judgment. Oh, when shall this remnant of the Sabean fire-worshipers have such opportunities as Christendom affords, for learning the will of God ! Here they live from generation to generation, a changeless peo- ple, reverencing faint symbols of the Almighty, but never offering him a tribute of thanksgiving ; adopting exagger- ated notions about Christ and Mohammed, but choosing, in the main, the path of their fathers, though it leads to destruction. From Baadri, on Monday morning, we were four hours reaching Sheikh Adi. The French Consul had joined us Sunday evening ; and with about forty horsemen, armed to the teeth, bound to the scene of the festival, our entrance by a narrow defile upon the holy ground was made in considerable state. The multitude of trees, the babbling brooks and conical temples on square pedestals, though giving forth but a very “ dim religious light,” were grateful sights to eyes that had seen no green thing for half a year. It was estimated that about five thousand were present on our arrival. Soon the worship opened. The whole valley is holy ground. Chiefs and people trod its terraces with naked feet. We foreigners were allowed some liber- ties. A large circle of men was formed beneath the mul- berry before our hovel, and shufiled their rough feet upon the rough pavement to a solemn tune upon tambourine and fife, turning one’s thoughts to the days of the Sweet Singer of Israel. The timbrel, which is in common use in the Moslem and Christian villages, is never used at these festivals. This dance was repeated every afternoon for five days. It is deemed a shame for females to join in it, unless at very special request. What has woman to do with wor- ship ? The shrill tcihlehl would now and then set the circle into a perfect frenzy. Every morning, mothers brought their naked children for baptism to the holy fountain, 220 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. whose waters, some of the priests tell the Moslems, have a secret connection with the Zemzem of Mecca. The Jca- wahls receive a fee for this service. The offerings made at the shrines of Sheikh Adi were, for the most part, blankets and rugs, the offerers of which threw them over their heads and were followed with a terrible clattering of tambour- ines to the temple. Over the western face of this build- ing were numerous figures, aj>parently hieroglyphical, the import of which not even the priests understand. Ser- pents, shepherds’ crooks, sharp-beaked birds, coarse combs, and various other objects were represented — possibly the work of an impious builder, but probably significant of doctrines in their creed. We took off our shoes as we entered the coarse, dark room, where, every night during the festival, were music and dancing before MeleJc Taoos , King Peacock, or the deviVs image as one of the Sheikhs privately informed me. The shyness of strangers, generally remarked of them by travelers, seemed entirely removed towards us ; doubt- less owing to the consular interference of Mr. Rassam with the government in their behalf. Sheikh Kasir, the religious head of the tribe, declared to me that the tomb in the temple was that of Sheikh Adi, probably the Adee, a disciple of Manes, and not Mar Adi, or the Apostle Thad- deus, as some have thought. In the minds of the people, Sheikh Adi and God, or the Good Principle, are nearly synonymous. They attribute to him omnipresence, om- nipotence, and the other attributes of Deity ; but are gen- erally willing to admit his inferiority to the one eternal Being. In this respect Sheikh Adi bears some analogy to the Christ of Christianity, but more with the Good Principle of the Manichees. Their doctrines are a motley mixture of Mohammedanism and Christianity with the philosojihy of the older Persians. Ever suspicious of inquirers, they try to answer them in the way that will least offend. They are all things to all men, that they Til E SACKED FIRE. 221 may save themselves and their rites. In private, I found the priests quite communicative, especially after an emetic and some arrack had restored a man to his senses whom hundreds supposed to be in the last hour of life. Their thanksgiving and presents seemed to indicate a willingness to tell me all they knew. It is very seldom, that Moslems or Christians reside in the villages of the Yezidees. Each village has its house at Sheikh Adi, a stone structure, some ten or fifteen feet square, with a flat mud roof, in which they deposit their valuables and their sick at the time of the feast. The greatest part of the pilgrims lie in the open air along the sides of .the mountains, which shut in all but a narrow entrance. Each company at night had its flaming torch, and the jewelled hills flashed with their numerous lights. Every new comer fired his gun, as soon as he came in sight of the temple. The hum of music, tramping and conver- sation scarcely died away at night, before the sun lifted his burning head upon the clean-dressed multitude that adored his beams. Whenever a priest appeared with a torch, they would pass their hands through the flame and reverentially kiss the blocks of stone around the shrines, where their respected leaders had placed the sacred fire. Every family brought a meat offering to Sheikh Adi. This was generally a sheep. The animals are thrust into an immense cauldron, and every morning each head of a household receives a share of the sacrifice. The surplus, with the baptismal fees and voluntary contributions, go into the purse of Hussein Bey, who is expected generously to provide for the needy among his people. I am glad to say, that their confidence in him is not misplaced. Mr. Rassam and myself took breakfast with Sheikh Nasir and the other dignitaries one morning. A “ bless- ing ” was asked by a Jcawahl , who cried at the top of his voice in Ivoordish, their usual language, “ Now let us cele- brate the feast of our glorious Sheikh Adi.” Large cop- 19 * 222 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. per dishes of meat and vegetables were passed first to the priests and “ great men,” and after that to the crowds of hungry bystanders. We ate meat, of course, with our fingers, and soup, rice and lebn , or sour milk, with rough wooden spoons. We were then expected to partake of tobacco smoke and coffee. Our Mosul party were quite pleased to see the apparent regard the two head chiefs paid their half dozen wives. Polygamy is common among them. Among all sects in Turkey, woman is considered as the servant of her hus- band. It is a great shame in Mosul for a woman to learn to read ; but the Yezidees go farther, and count it a dis- grace for a man to learn ! Not half a dozen men among their one hundred thousand can write their names. It seems to be thought necessary that a very few should know howto read and write, that the covetous world may not cheat them, and that the fragments of their religious books may be preserved. They seldom take a note for money loaned, and their honesty far surpasses that of their neighbors. They greatly dislike to be called Sheitani , though more from regard to the honor of Satan than their own shame. To take his name in vain is unpardonable sacrilege ! That they worship the devil, is to them a glory. God is too good to need propitiating ; and they see no reason why, if the bad kings of this world receive reverence, His Satanic Majesty should not also ! Sheikh Nasir candidly admitted that, according to their theology, none have a certainty of salvation but the disci- ples of Sheikh Adi and Melek Taoos — all others are left to the uncovenanted mercies of God ! They traditionally hold to the great facts of the Biblical history, though under very distorted forms — forms that show how impos- sible it is for tradition to do more than convey a dim inti- mation of the truth. One of the chief priests related to me the following account of the origin of the devil’s appel- lation — Melek Taoos . WORSHIP OP SATAN. 223 When Christ was on the cross in the absence of his friends, the devil, in the fashion of a dervish, came and took him down and carried him to heaven. Soon after the Marys came, and seeing their Lord gone, inquired of the dervish where lie was. They would not believe his answer, but promised to do so if he would take the pieces of a cooked chicken, from which he was eating, and bring the animal to life. He agreed to do so, and bringing back bone to his bone — the cock crew! The dervish then announced his real character, and they expressed their astonishment by a burst of adoration. Having informed them that he would henceforth always appear to them in the shape of a beautiful bird, he departed. The peacock (i taoos ) was henceforth chosen as their chieftain’s symbol ; and the Deity, if not the Sun also, was forced to give way in the Sabean system to the Prince of Hell. It is easy to see, in the above myth, some features of the gospel story of Joseph’s laying the body of the Saviour in a sepulcher, the approach and inquiry of the women, the answer of the angels, the trial of Peter at the crowing of the cock, the appearance of Christ among his disciples, and the exclam- ation of Thomas, “ My Lord and my God ! ” The cock-shaped brazen symbols of Satan stand on pedestals a foot high, and are occasionally taken from village to village by the priests. They are sacred, as was the ark to the Israelites. The highest bidder always re- ceives the honor of lodging the image over night. Sacri- fices are offered on such occasions. One thinks of Tetzel and his sale of indulgences. But I believe these priests are more honest than were he and his sanctimonious companions. I presume this account of the origin of the regard of the Yezidees for the cock — which they never eat, though they do the hen — never before came to Protestant ears. Let it be compared with Mohammed’s miraculous communings with the spirit world, and the popish miracles of Saint Januarius and the 224 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Virgin, still in good repute, before the Moslem and Papist affect to smile and despise. Dr. Lobdell afterwards received a somewhat different account of the brazen standards of the Yezidees, (as we learn from his journal for 1854,) and was led to doubt whether they were not rude images of the dove rather than the cock , and whether they did not represent Sheikh Adi, or the Good Principle, instead of Melek Taoos, or the Evil Principle, as, in common with Layard and Badger, he had previously supposed. “ Sheikh Adi,” he was after- wards told, “ is always symbolized by a white dove / and the sinjaks (signs, banners) carried about by the kawahls, are symbols of tli z faith — banners of Sheikh Adi, and not of Melek Taoos.” The Druzes of Lebanon, the Yezidees say, were for- merly Yezidees. When the Jews were brought to Gozan, in the captivity, they were earned off to Lebanon, but soon became corrupted, and refused to receive the kaw- ahls from Assyria. So they were called Dur (far off) Yezcl (God), or People far from God. So much for the contradictory stories which Dr. Lobdell heard at different times, of this singular people. We return now to the letter. Sabeanism predominates over the elements of Moham- medanism and Christianity in their creed, if these were not added simply to secure the good will of the Moslems and Christians around them. However this may have been at first, it is evident that the people have as much faith in the myths noAV, as in the distinct relics of the As- syrianized Zoroastrianism preserved among them. They do not pray, even to Satan ; but, as they told me, they simply reverence him, not, however, according to the maxim of Confucius : “ Respect the devil, but have as lit- tle to do with him as possible.” Their meat and drink appears to be to do his will. Their great festival affords the young men a fine oppor- IGNORANCE OF TIIE WOMEN. 225 tunity for the choice of companions ; but, in all my stay, I saw no indecent gesture. The modesty of the females, while dancing, would put to shame the refined trippings of Christendom. But their ignorance is great. One of the women told me, that the females never pray nor en- gage in any of the acts of reverence ; for her part, she did not know as there was any life beyond this ; she had heard of Christ from her neighbors, but did not know what he proposed to do, nor who he was ; and she never had thought of sin as originating and existing in the heart . She promised to think of these things, which she then heard for the first time. How thankful I felt, at the scene of these orgies, that God had given me a birthplace where Christ crucified is known and preached, as the sinner’s only hope. Amid all my discouragements, privations, and trials here, I am never sad when I put to myself the question, “Why art thou better than these?” “Not unto us,” not unto man be the glory of redemption ; let God be acknowledged as the ALL IN ALL. W e left the valley of Sheikh Adi five days after our arrival. The feast was to continue three days longer. We stopped for the night at Ain Sifneh, a village two hours distant ; but the fleas and sand-flies forced us to leave the mud floors an hour before midnight, and start on our starless way. We passed Khorsabad about day- light, but had only time to see one of its immense winged and human-lieaded bulls — the old Assyrian symbol of the divine intelligence, swiftness, and power — and reached home as the sun was gilding the tomb of Jonah. Only three of our party had caught the prevalent oph- thalmia; and though it was only after much care and pain that their eyes were restored to health, we all re- joiced in invigorated strength, and felt more happy with our lot, having seen what man can become without “the glorious gospel of the blessed God.” 226 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. I have not pretended to give a complete view of the re- ligion of the Yezidees. This is not to be done in a small compass. I do not think, the best way to evangelize them ivill be to send missionaries directly to them, while they are so much needed in other fields, and are so scarce. But it will be well enough for our friends to bear in mind that when the Armenians and Jacobites and Nestorians are all brought to the truth, they have still other work to do. A few words about matters here must close this pro- tracted letter. Salome, who left us with Shemmas Elias Fuez, of Beyroot, Oct. 29th, has written us that they were twenty -one days in reaching Diarbekr. Improve- ments in traveling here are few and far between. The only important difference in the mode of Salome’s de- parture and that of Rebekah from Mesopotamia to the land of Canaan, was, that she rode a mule, and her proto- type a camel. There is considerable agitation in the waters at Mosul. Our attempt to do the people good in spirit as well as body, at the dispensary, has greatly excited the priests, and they have threatened to anathematize all who submit to the process of question and answer. The consequence is, that just at present the majority of applicants for medi- cine are Moslems ; but many of the Christians come, Nicodemus-like, to talk over the matter, and always ex- press their indignation at the endeavors of the priesthood to close their eyes and their hearts. I have a class of four young men in English — two Protestants and two Jacob- ites ; and Mrs. Lobdell teaches half a dozen boys. Mr. Williams’s Bible class is very interesting, and Mrs. Wil- liams is pleased with her class of women. Our girls’ school is not very well attended, but that of the boys promises to be a nucleus of power. Jeremiah is doing good to those who call at his book store in the market. W e have purchased a burying-place, in spite of opposition, RESULTS AT MOSUL. 227 and it is nearly ready to receive the remains of our breth- ren. Mr. Williams and Micha have gone on a preaching tour to Diarbekr, through Jebel Tour. We are desirous to know the precise condition of our cause in Mardin. Some reports have made us deem it a sort of Japan. Longer residence in Mosul produces contentment, and at times we feel a kind of exultation in view of the results that promise to appear around this old seat of empire, when the gospel shall have free course and be glorified. I CHAPTER XII. The Winter and Spring of 1853 — Seed Time and Harvest both natural and spiritual — His Tongue unloosed — Discussions on the Way of Salvation — Crowds in the Dispensary and the Study — Extracts from Journal — Great Excitement — Great Fatigue — Great Joy — Feasts of St. Peter and St. Elias — Fast of the Prophet Jonah —Summoned before the Cadi — Refuses to give Medicines without the Gospel — Persecution at Tel Keif — The Jews — The Yezidees — The Arabs — Nimrood — Palace of Sennacherib at Koyunjik — Bible Illustrations — Linguistic Speculations — Uncle Tom’s Cabin — Post Days — Moslems like the Chief Priests and Pharisees — No Sadducees — Im- plicit Faith — Ignorance — Papal Lies — History of the Reformation repeated — Arguments. The change of the seasons is not less marked or less grateful in “ the East,” than it is in our W estern world. It is not, however, a change from the extreme of heat to the extreme of cold, but from excessive heat to a moder- ate temperature, and from excessive drought to abundant moisture. The summer is there the hot and dry, and the winter the cool and rainy season. Upon the return of winter, the clouds veil the face of the burning sun. The heaven is no longer brass over head, nor the earth iron or powder and dust beneath the feet, nor the whole atmos- phere scorching, like that of an oven, or a burning, fiery furnace. The heavens give rain ; and the hard and bar- ren earth, made soft with showers, is carpeted with the green wheat and barley, or enameled with flowers of every form and color — anemones, poppies, forget-me-nots, May-weeds, tulips, and buttercups. The gardens produce, in rich luxuriance, beans, turnips, radishes larger than our beets, yet tender and delicate as their namesakes in America, cucumbers two feet long, pumpkin squashes of fifty pounds’ weight, and all those vegetables which con- FIRST WINTER IN MOSUL. 229 stitutc the main subsistence of the lower classes in the Orient. In mid-winter, the fruit trees already begin to blossom and put forth leaves and fruit. Man sympathizes with reviving nature, drinks in strength and activity with a more invigorating atmosphere, and goes forth to plow and sow ; and in April, he already begins to shout the harvest home. In many respects, the seasons and the corresponding customs of the people in Turkey are the reverse of those in America, not less so than are the usages of society, the forms of government, and the notions of religion. Indeed, Dr. Lobdell often speaks of the con- trariety as almost universal ; and he amused himself with making up a little book of contraries, which has not come into the hands of the writer, but to which he frequently alludes. In America, we “ house up ” in icmter , and re- tire to our inmost chambers by night . In Assyria, they seek shelter in their houses and cellars from the burning heat of the midday sun, while they pass the night upon the roofs, or, if need be, in traveling, or in labors that require special exertion. With us, spring is the seed- time, and summer is the harvest ; they plow and sow in the winter, and gather in the harvest in the spring. And the winter and spring are the seasons when, if ever, the spiritual husbandman must go forth, bearing precious seed, and come again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with him. The winter and spring of 1853, which, together with the summer and autumn of 1852, completed the first year of Dr. Lobdell’s life in Mosul, was to him a jjeriod of great activity and great enjoyment in his work. Not only were his energies renewed and his spirits quickened by a cooler and more bracing air, and the people, for the same reason, in a better condition to hear and think and feel and act on the momentous subjects which he would fain press upon their consideration ; his tongue was now, for the first time, so far unloosed that he could declare, though imper- 20 230 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. fectly, the glad tidings of the gospel of Christ. He was far from feeling that he was master of the Arabic. He was “ not yet greatly in love with the khas , the ’’ctins, the ghains , the kofs, and the khas ” of the guttural language. But he could make himself understood, and nothing could any longer restrain him from entering with all the ardor of his earnest nature, and all the fervor of his love for the truth and the souls of men, into the discussion of the fun- damental doctrines of the gospel with the multitude of errorists of every sort, — Mohammedans and Yezidees, Jews and Christians, Chaldeans and Syrians, Jacobites and Kestorians, — that now more than ever thronged his house. And this only increased the crowd. Curiosity to hear the doctrines and the arguments of the Protestants drew many, and a sincere spirit of inquiry brought some, though the medicines, the illustrations, (especially the skeleton ), and the surgical instruments, were still the chief attraction to all ranks and classes. And they soon found that the liakeem was as skillful in wielding arguments as he was in handling instruments, and that the truths which he uttered with his lips, were as sharp as the knives and lancets which he held in his hands. He endeavored to restrict them to the ’asr, or the hour of evening prayer, at which the dispensary was regularly open for the dis- pensation of medicines both for the body and the soul. But they came at all hours, and were so eager to hear and discuss, that he could not send them away, and often he relinquished his Arabic lesson, his English class, his read- ing and recreation, and gave up the whole day to succes- sive troops of eager visitors. A few extracts from his jour- nal will best illustrate the kind and degree of interest which was thus excited. “Jan. 19th. Before I had fin- ished my Arabic lesson, as it was a feast day, a crowd Avere hanging round my study door, — some Moslems, some of each of the Christian sects, and a number from several vil- lages.” After specifying the villages, — Tel Keif, Bartulli, INQUIRERS. 281 Kara-Kosh, Karamles, etc., — with their situation and popu- lation of various sects, as he had learned it from his visitors, he proceeds : “ This afternoon, fourteen Christians were in my study to investigate the truth. One Butrus es-Sibogh, the dyer, took the lead of them, and Jeremiah replied, when my Arabic was cloudy. A good impression was produced ; we began and ended with the two modes of salvation (by faith, and by works, or, rather, forms). It was a very interesting time for me. All who could read wanted some tracts, and were furnished gratis, though we are beginning to doubt the expediency of giving too freely. I have been thronged all day, and have done nothing but preach in broken Arabic, and write prescriptions in broken English for Ablahad. The leewan was filled with Moslems and Christians at the ’asr. Butrus kept them still. “ Jan. 20th. Eighteen men and seven women crowded into my study about 10, A. M. I never before knew a band of women here to sit down with men to listen to the truth.” After removing their prejudices against “Bible readers,” and showing them the advantages, temporal and spiritual, of being able to read, as well as the self- ishness of their priests in keeping them in ignorance, he says : “ I then told them what is our object, and our only object, to teach the people the true way of salvation from the word of God. They all responded, c meleecih — excellent ; and then Kos Michael spoke to them of his reasons for becoming a Protestant. The effect was evi- dently good, — all were solemn. Some begged for books, and all went away sober. While I was at dinner, six more Christians and three Moslems came in, with whom I talked about their souls. When they had left, twelve more full grown men seated themselves in the study, and for two hours, with the aid of lYiy assistant, Ablahad, I expounded to them the way of salvation by grace. Their earnestness and evident honesty interested me more than any interview I have yet had with a mingled party of 232 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Chaldeans. Syrians, and Jacobites. I class them all to- gether, and even tell them they are little better than Mos- lems, for they all labor to get into heaven by their heart- less formalities and supposed good works. I think two of the men were deeply affected. Oh, what a blessed work ! I envy no man in America his post, and no man in the world. My field is full of interest ; may God strengthen his laborers here for its due cultivation. • “Jan. 27th. All classes crowd around us — all sects — to know our arguments. May God save the multi- tudes to whom we declare the truth. Oh, it is a glorious work ! Do not the angels desire to engage in it ? “Jan. 29th. A crowd of Christians came as usual, and listened attentively. A Chaldean, a week ago bigoted enough, preached to them earnestly in favor of our doc- trines. The light spreads. May the truth be glorified. Butrus read from one of John’s epistles, and prayed earn- estly before a hundred Moslems. They made so much noise that I refused to prescribe, and left the leeioan . The man who yesterday listened to the truth so earnest- ly, said he wished to put his name down as a Protestant. I referred him to Jeremiah, the head of the community. “Feb. 1st. The day has brought forth much good. The city is agog. May we be wise. One man gives good evidence that he loves the truth. What joy I had in thinking, I had been somewhat instrumental in leading him to Jesus. Evening meeting at the house of Ablahad. A little, square, windowless room was well filled. Jere- miah preached on the topic, 1 Whatsoever is not of faith is sin.’ Sat on his knees. Bible on a bundle of cotton yarn, — an earthen cup, having a wick dipped in the oil, stood on a stand a foot high before him. What a place for serving the Infinite ! But each Christian’s body is a temple of the Holy Ghost.” At length the crowd became so great at the that it was difficult to maintain order, and it was quite impos- CROWDS AT THE STUDY. 233 sible for Dr. Lobdell, with all his helpers, to attend prop- erly either to their bodily or their spiritual wants. An arrangement was therefore made, early in February, to receive Christian patients the first three days of each week, — Moslem women on Thursdays and Saturdays, and Moslem men on Fridays, which, being the Mohamme- dan Sabbath, would release them in some measure from their secular label's, and yet was not held so sacred as to occasion any scruples as to the lawfulness of visiting the dispensary. Still the crowd was scarcely diminished. “Monday, Feb. 14th. This afternoon has been memorable. Over a hundred Christians have called for conversation to-day, and at one time seventy were present crowding the study. Shemmas Georghius was on hand with his proof-texts to substantiate the supremacy of Peter. The Jacobites, of course, were on my side, and all were deeply interested in the discussion. Some of the Chaldeans grew indig- nant at my irreverence for the omnipotent saints, and left ; but their seats were speedily filled. What a tumult we are creating. The whole town is on fire. Mind is awak- ing. May God descend with his Spirit. Oh, what a priv- ilege is granted to us! May we work and prove success- ful in drawing multitudes to the knowledge of God our Saviour. Salvation by grace , good works as the fruit of faith , the one Mediator the Man Christ Jesus , the Mys- tery of God manifest in the flesh , the idolatry of picture- worship, the relation of the Jewish to the Christian scheme, Christ the fulfilling of the law, — all these and many other topics have passed under our review to-day, so that I am very much fatigued. May my weakness lead me to my strength. While seventy were at my room, thirty were at brother Williams’s. This feast day of St. Peter will be long remembered by many in Mosul. W ould that many might date their conversion from it. As I told a Chal- dean this evening, if I shall know before my death that a 20 * 234 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. single soul has been turned to God by my efforts, I shall never cease to rejoice, that my life was devoted to the welfare of the people of Mosul. “ 17th, Thursday. I had about a hundred and twenty- five Moslem women at the dispensary this afternoon. The noise was so great, that neither Brother W. nor myself could do any thing with them. One Moslem woman declared, she was not a sinner. Indeed, very many of the Moslems think they are pure before God, some even who are impure in the eyes of men. - “ 18th, Friday. Some Moslems were pleased with my exposition of our doctrine of the sonship of Christ. A hundred Moslem men after medicine. Brother W.’s lec- ture was short, but he did not hesitate to call Christ our Saviour before them. “ 19th, Saturday. A great crowd of noisy Moslem women to-day. What beastly specimens of humanity ! My work is too hard ; my tongue too little loosed ; I must alter my practice of medicine, and refuse to see so many. My head is full of plans, but how to modify the present course, and secure all its advantages, it is difficult to see. “ 24th, Thursday. To-day was the Jacobite feast of St. Elias. It is observed to-morrow by the Moslems. Mon- day, Tuesday and Wednesday of this week were observed in honor of the prophet Jonah, as days of fasting. I suppose more than two hundred and fifty persons have visited my house to-day. Kos Michael assisted me in talking with a room-full of Jacobites for two hours this forenoon. We discussed the doctrine, that all which is not of faith is sin, thus demolishing some of the objections of our friends who adhere to their church, though they see its errors — prayers for the dead, salvation by faith and works, the worship of the mass and the saints, &c. Nearly seventy were present at one time, and before they left, quite a battle occurred between the Jacobites and Papists. PREACHING TO MOHAMMEDANS. 235 I took my scat on a ladder-round in the court, and tried to argue with the multitude. Oh, how much we need assistance from above! We had over a hundred Moslem Women and a crowd of Christians at the ’ cisr . A policeman came, and succeeded in keeping the people pretty quiet. But I was very tired at the close of the day. I do believe, much good has been done in the name of the Redeemer. My medicine has brought scores to- day within the sound of the gospel, that would not have heard it otherwise. But we must alter our plan of opera- tions. I shall kill myself talking of salvation, if we do not. Will this be justifiable suicide? I sometimes think it will. “ That life is long, which answers life’s great end.” Dr. Lobdell’s inability to bear the labor and the excite- ment was not the only difficulty, which the missionaries encountered in their plan of operations. The English consul soon began to throw out hints, that it was not safe, nor expedient, to preach the truth with so much plainness to Mohammedans. The Jacobites, who never dared to give utterance to a religious sentiment in the presence of Moslems, which they did not hold in common, were astonished to see the missionaries preaching the gos- pel with equal frankness to all. The Papists declared that this course would surely rouse the wrath of the Mussulmans, and all the Christian sects would suffer the consequences. Even the Protestants and the native helpers were fright- ened at the boldness of the missionaries, and remonstrated, and even entreated them not to bring down the ven- geance of their Moslem oppressors upon their little com- munity. The Mohammedans themselves, strange to say, were the last to make objection. They generally ac- quiesced in the reasonableness of the rule, that medicine and the gospel must go together ; and though they loved not the truths of the gospel, they were willing to listen to them as the indispensable condition of receiving medi- cal treatment and advice. Some of them openly declared 236 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. that the missionaries and their converts were Christians, and the only ones in Mosul. But there were enough, especially of the higher classes, whose pride had been humbled by being placed on the same level with “ the poor,” both in the administering of medicines and in having “the gospel preached to them;” there were enough of these to make complaint to the authorities. Indeed, the excitement throughout the city was such, that it could not but come to the knowledge of the government. Dr. Lobdell was not therefore surprised, when, about the middle of March, he was waited on by the gray- headed servant of the cadi, or judge, and politely in- formed that his master wished to see him. “ I rode immediately to his house, and went up a dirty pair of stairs amid a crowd of idlers and courtiers , and, having raised the padded cotton door, seated myself among the smoking dignitaries. Some of them wore very white tur- bans and red ziboons (long robes) ; and the finjens of coffee were handed them by trained cup-bearers, on their thumb nails, with a grace that brought to mind the manners of the old Persians. Having finished the case he was then trying, the cadi turned to me, and asked if I understood Turkish, that being the court language . I replied, of course, in the negative, and then was informed in Arabic that, as a number of Moslems had made complaints to him, that I was in the habit of reading from the Bible, preach- ing, and conversing on religious subjects in the %>resence of and with the crowds of their sect that daily assembled at my dispensary, he had deemed it his duty to direct me to cease that kind of work. I asked him if this was a com- mand or a request , and whether it came from him or the pasha. My boldness astonished the crowd, and they thought I had misunderstood the cadi’s order.” To prevent misunderstanding, Mr. Williams was sent for ; and then, in reply to the cadi, the missionaries said that they supposed the Moslems accepted the teachings SUMMONED BEFORE THE CADI. 237 of our Lord Jesus (so Christ is called among them), and that they had always been careful in their discourses to the Moslems, to say nothing contrary to his doctrines — that they had made it a rule to talk about the sayings of Peter and Paul and the other apostles to Christians only, that Christ commands his disciples to go into all the world healing the sick and preaching the gospel, thus virtually linking the two commands together, and vir- tually saying, If you do the one, do the other also — and that, therefore, if forbidden to preach the truth, we shall refuse to give medicine to all Moslems, whether it be a poor man, the cadi, or the pasha. “ But we do not for- bid you to give medicine” “ Yes, you do, if you forbid us to preach ; for the two things are inseparable.” “ But we only say, you must not speak of religion .” “ True, you wish to receive what agrees Avith your wishes ; that you can not. If you will come to our country, you may build a mosk, preach at the corners of the streets, say what you please in favor of your religion, and no one will be allowed to disturb you.” “You have freedom; we have not.” “Yes, yes,” said we, “that’s it;” and smiling, we rose, made our salaams, and withdrew, well pleased that we had thus got free of the laborious duty of giving medicines to such crowds of Moslems as have lately pressed in upon us. The next day, Dr. Lobdell refused to give medicine to a dignitary from the palace, till he should bring a written permission from the cadi that he might preach to him. And this, for the present, became the established rule, till they could find a better — till, at least, they could see how it would work. Mohammedans came every day for medicine, and whether rich or poor, high or low, received the same answer, that the cadi had forbidden them to converse with Mohammedans on religious topics, and they did not feel at liberty to administer medicines to those to whom they were not permitted to preach the 238 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. gospel ; if they wanted medicines they must go to the cadi for permission, also, to hear the truths of the gospel. They scolded and stormed at the cadi ; they begged and entreated of the missionaries ; they were willing to hear the preaching, if they might only receive the medicines. But the missionaries were inexorable. They wished it to be seen distinctly, that Moslems were afraid to have the truth preached to the people. And the cadi refusing to give the required permission, the intercourse between the missionaries and the Moslems was, for the time, nearly broken off. About the same time, the priests and emissaries of the pope stirred up the spirit of opposition and of persecution among the Chaldeans at Tel Keif, which increased the ferment at Mosul, and deterred the papists, to some ex- tent, from their visiis for inquiry and discussion with the missionaries. “ Tel Keif,” we quote from a letter to Dr. Anderson, “ is occupied entirely by Chaldeans, who have sworn, like the conspirators against Paul, to root out all heretical tendencies, even at the price of blood. While Mr. Marsh was here, an attempt was made by the priests there to destroy the Bibles, which our brother put into the hands of the people ; they seized them, and nothing but an order from the government prevented their de- struction. “About two months since, a few persons from that place came to ask us to send them a preacher ; they were urgent for an American. After repeated applications, we deemed it best to send every Saturday Kos Michael, or Sliemmas Jeremiah. The former owns a house in the village, it being his native place ; and they were accus- tomed to sit upon the floor on Sundays and instruct those >vho called upon them. This roused the vengeance of the priesthood ; and they sent for the Chaldean patriarch and Kos Butrus, a papal emissary, educated in the Propaganda at Rome, to put a stop to the business. Two weeks ago, PERSECUTION AT TEL KEIF. 239 Jeremiah was horribly anathematized by the patriarch, and a public discourse was given by his attendant against the American Methodists . When they came out of the church, about live hundred seized stones, and with a tre- mendous hooting, proceeded towards the rude house of our brother. They did not kill him, but threatened to do so, if he did not leave the place. He ran to the house of the Kiayah * or mayor of the village, for protection ; but he was out collecting taxes, and his son ordered him to leave the house and the village immediately — he was too vile a heretic to live ! Thus much for civil protection. Jere- miah’s brother escaped from the mob by a secret Avay, and ran to Mosul, arriving about the time that our afternoon chapel service was closing. It was evident, that Jeremiah’s life was in danger ; but reflecting, that 4 the blood of the martyrs is the seed of the church,’ and seeing no way to relieve him till the next day, we simply asked the English consul to get us a policeman from the pasha, with an order to bring the offenders to Mosul. Thus furnished, on Monday morning we galloped to the village, and found our brother alive, but all who sympathized with him, did it with fear and trembling. The Kiayah refused to point out the offenders ; so we took him and brought him to the city. All the men, women, and children of the village collected around us as we were trying to force some wit- nesses to accompany us, and declared that they would kill every one who testified against them; and further, that if ever the apostate Jeremiah should set his foot in Tel Keif again, they would sacrifice him, at the same time coolly drawing their forefingers across their throats. They had agreed to divide the price of his blood among the houses, not doubting that this would be a cheap way of deliver- ing themselves from the heretic. Nearly two thousand persons followed the Kiayah , determined to stand by him and their church. * This dignitary was under some obligations to Dr. Lobdell. See p. 210. 240 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. “ The next morning — the prominent members of the medglis , or common council, having been previously con- sulted by the priests, and the pasha having been invited to a breakfast with the French consul — the Jesuits and Tel Keifites proceeded to the palace, as the rude barracks of the pasha are designated ; and Jeremiah answered for himself before them with a calmness and dignity, which awakened considerable sympathy among the Moslems. The case, however, was decided against our brother; he was ordered to keep away from that village, and his brother, who married his wife there, was directed to leave the place also. Ivos Butrus then undertook to get an order preventing Kos Michael from going there to talk in his own house, but the pasha replied that neither the council nor himself had power to give it. “Jeremiah was requested by the pasha to call on him the next day. He did so, and was told that when there were ten or fifteen houses there that wished to become Protestants, he would protect them and give him permis- sion to preach to them ! “ The people of Tel Keif returned to their village, and reported that Jeremiah had been bastinadoed and banished from the country, and the heretics were put to flight ! Kos Michael went up the next Saturday, taking a bouyou - roulder from the pasha for himself and those who wished to call on him ; but nearly all of his old friends were so afraid for their lives that they staid away, waiting for the rage of their enemies to cool. Two young men and some women came and conversed with him, but chiefly by night. “The Jacobites of Mosul were full of sympathy for us. But we told them, we were sure the triumphing of the enemy would be short. Probably not a person in the city was ignorant of the affair, and thus the gospel has been preached, though through envy and strife ; and even in this we will rejoice. We intend, if our appropriation will LABORS AMONG THE JEWS. 241 allow, to build a room in Tel Keif soon, that we may give the enemy no rest.” The Jews were not neglected in the labors of the mis- sionaries. “ Every Saturday we go to the Jewish syna- £0rayer to God, that He will so overrule the present war, that freedom of speech, and freedom for the Bible, may be enjoyed throughout the Orient. MOOLLAH YOOSUF. 299 “ I have frequent visits from Moollah Yoosuf, a fine looking man, about fifty years of age, who was formerly a Syrian priest. All priests in the Jacobite and papalized eastern churches are forbidden to marry after they are ordained, and as this man, some time subsequent to the loss of his wife, wished to marry again, he was persecuted, so that he was obliged to abajidon his sect entirely. He was even excommunicated, with dreadful anathemas, lie wanted to join the Jacobites, but they refused him. Meanwhile an order, secured through French influence, came from Constantinople, for his forcible removal from the city. The cawass, that was conducting him to Bagh- dad, beat him so cruelly on the way, that when they arrived at Arbeel, the priest exclaimed, “ There is no God but God, and Mohammed is his prophet.” Whereupon the cawass confessed that he had been hired to kill him before they arrived at Baghdad, but now he declared that he was his best friend. He was received with the greatest kindness by the governor of Arbeel, and conducted back to Mosul with great honor, to the chagrin of his Syrian oppressors. He now receives an annual stipend from the government, and bears the title of Moollah. He tells me that he knows Jesus is the only redeemer, and longs to confess him before men ; but he thinks God will accept his silent, heartfelt service, since an open confession of his regard for Christianity, in spite of all the rights guaran- teed by the tunzimat , would cause his head to drop instantly in the street. “ A Moslem is now under sentence of death for reviling Mohammed ; to blaspheme the name of God is no sin. “ American Christians should pray much for the triumph of righteousness in Turkey, and rejoice, with their mis- sionaries, that God reigns.” In the annual report of the station for 1853, the mis- sionaries say : “ There is no doubt that our dispensary is an important means of advancing our work. Our doc- 300 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. trines are learned there by many whom we should never meet elsewhere. Prejudices are smoothed away, and confidence is established in our honesty and good will. “We have endeavored in vain to procure a firman from the Porte, fixing the salicin at fifty piastres a house, the sum at which other sects are rated. Consequently our enemies have a financial hold upon those who desire to join us. They can and do increase their tax at pleasure. “ The papists are the most wealthy of the Christian sects ; and consequently they have the most influence with the government. They have tried to wrest from us a plot of ground, which we have purchased for a grave- yard, endeavoring to induce the Moslems, from whom we obtained it, to use their influence with the government to this end ; and all this, though one of our deeds is one hundred and twenty years old, and ten years, according to Turkish law, gives legality to the possession of real estate. They would, if it were possible, give our bones no rest, any more than did the Roman Catholics of France the ashes of the Protestants two centuries ago. “ The attendance at our Sabbath services has increased, this year, twenty per cent. The male members of the church are seldom absent, even from our evening services ; but the female members are unable to attend the latter, on account of the shame attached to a woman’s being seen in the streets at night. They are evidently growing in knowledge and in grace, and have established a repu- tation for strict honesty, temperance, and good-will to man.” Those who are in the habit of observing the annual Thanksgiving, will be pleased to know that that model festival, at once secular and sacred, national and domestic, has traveled as far East as Mosul. The sons of the Puri- tans observe it on the banks of the Tigris, in sight of ancient Nineveh, and they will doubtless carry it with them round the globe. Says Dr. Lobdell, in a letter to THANKSGIVING IN TURKEY. 301 Dr. Perkins, bearing date Nov. 25, 1853 : “ It was a matter of great rejoicing yesterday morning, that your messenger handed us the full packet from Oroomiah and Gawar on Thanksgiving day. This made us doubly thankful. You will infer that we celebrated the day a la 4 auld lang syne.’ So we did, — all but the turkey, sub- stituting for that a gazelle from the desert. As Mr. Hodder said, 4 Seeing we are in Turkey, it is less neces- sary that the turkey be in us.’ Brother Williams preached a sermon, showing the new to be better than the old, and altogether we had quite a social time of it. I am not aware whether you good people in Oroomiah are accustomed to observe such occasions, but it really seems to me quite a23ropos that we, poor missionaries as we are, should join in the thanksgivings of our countrvmen at home.” A few selections, taken at random from his journal, will afford some glimpses of his private and inward life at this time. 44 W e need much direct conversation with each other on the subject of growth in grace. It is hard to be Christ- like even here. The old man sometimes almost subdues the new ; but we know that He who hath begun a good work in us, will carry it forward even unto perfection. 44 When I do God’s will, I always have peace ; when I oppose, I am always disquieted. It requires a hard struggle for me to conquer my old nature. There is a constant war in my members. My tongue and my thoughts struggle. I need grace from God. 44 Too unmindful of my great mercies. Oh for a better heart ! Solemn thoughts of loneliness if Lucy should die, or Mary. 4 Be careful for nothing.’ 44 Dec. 18th. Seized with fever about noon, and obliged to go to bed. 44 27th. Was born Julius Henry Lobdell. I was unable to be in the room. 44 29th. All are attentive and kind to Lucy and me. I 26 302 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. think our brethren pray for me much. I believe I am beloved in Mosul ; and I trust I shall preach even by my illness. “31st. I have had two very severe attacks of illness, this year, besides some others less dangerous. Twice have I been in actual danger of death from the Koords ; once I was almost shipwrecked. What occasion have I for thanksgiving to God that I live ! “ I lay myself on the altar of the Lord anew. I promise to be a more faithful servant ; to live with a more con- stant sense of God’s presence and providence ; and, as much as in me lies, to live peaceably with all men. Oh for divine guidance this coming year! I have many apprehensions that I may not live to see its close. But I am immortal till my work is done. May I be baptized with a fresh baptism ; be re-renew'ed with the renewal of the Holy Ghost, and desire to know nothing but Jesus Christ and him crucified. To thee, O God, I devote all my powers; I give thee my possessions, my wife, my children! Wilt thou accept the offering ! It is all I have : but it is thine, and may it be acceptable to thee. And the praise and glory shall be unto the F ather, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, for ever. Amen.” CHAPTER XY. Second Winter in Mosul — Ice — Health — Resolutions — Growth in Grace — The Bible — The Dispensary — Spread of the Truth — Nimrood and Koyun- jik — Sliiloam — Illustrations of Life in Mosul — Oriental Theology — Prot- estant Community at Diarbekr — General Meeting of the Assyrian Misson — Journey of Dr. Lobdell and Mr Marsh to Diarbekr — Changes and Progress there — Letters to Mr. Crane and Dr. Perkins. The second winter of Dr. Lobdell’s residence at Mosul was colder, or, to use language more in accordance with our ideas of winter in America, not so warm as the first. Dews were more frequent, though still far from being common or copious. There was also occasionally some appearance of frost; and on the 26th of January, the thermometer was down to 27°, and there was ice in the gardens — the first which the Doctor had seen in Mosul. Still it was not too cool for health, strength, or comfort. It imparted a temporary vigor even to Dr. Lobdell’s shat- tered frame, and he sometimes writes as if he were well and strong again ; though over-exertion soon brought on a relapse, and convinced others, and himself too for the time, that his constitution was prematurely worn out, and would not probably last long. He begins the year 1854, as he closed the previous year, with a recorded consecration to his work — with returning health, (as he flattered himself, though still un- able to go to the chapel on Sunday morning, the first morning of the new year) and with new faith, hope, and joy: “My health is fast improving, and I hope to give all my strength, this year, to the service of the Lord. May it 304 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. be a consecration of the whole heart. There is no satis- faction but in living entirely to him ; let mine be no half- way service. I believe I begin the year with stronger resolutions than ever before, to live for eternity and the salvation of souls. I am happy, very happy, and trust I shall be till I am called up higher, where my happiness shall have no alloy.” Strange as it may seem to men of the world, who find their happiness in wealth and fashion, and rank, and standing, missionaries are uniformly found to be the happiest of men. They differ in their tempera- ments and modes of manifesting their happiness. But they are all happy in their work, and in the approval of their Master. Seldom have we seen a missionary (and we have seen many of them both in this country and at their stations), who did not feel that he had the most desirable situation, and the most profitable business, the highest office, and the largest salary, of any in the wide world. The truth is, we are happy just about in the same proportion as we deny ourselves to do the will of God and benefit our fellow-men. Indeed, this is just what the Master promises those who forsake earthly possessions and earthly friends for his sake — an hundred fold more than they forsake, in this present time, and in the world to come, life everlasting. As he advanced in the divine life, Dr. Lobdell had a growing conviction of the reality and importance of those fundamental truths of revelation, which Rowland Hill somewhat quaintly denominated the three ATs, — Ruin by Sin, Redemption by Jesus Christ, and Regeneration by the Holy Spirit. As he was more deeply and experimentally convinced of the depravity of his heart and the corrup- tion of his nature, so, as both cause and effect of this con- viction, he prized more highly the unspeakable gift of salvation by the blood of Christ, and experienced more fully the power of the truth and the Spirit of God. The Bible, long prized above all price, became more and more FEE ACHING AT TIIE DISPENSARY. 305 precious to him ; and lie would exclaim : “I enjoyed read- ing the Bible more than ever before ; oh ! this is the word of lifer “ llow interesting is the Old Testament ! Even the minutest statements of Moses, Ezekiel, and Daniel, are full of meaning. Judges, Ecclesiastes, Solomon’s Song, and the minor prophets are fraught with instruction. Isaiah, Jeremiah, and David are angel-seers — divine prophets, whose words are full of life and glory.” There was not usually so great a rush, either of patients, or of disputers and inquirers, at this time, as there had been the previous year ; nor was there so much excite- ment. Still there were at times a hundred at the dispen- sary. Often the Moslems outnumbered the Christians. But this was not deemed a sufficient reason for withhold- ing the truth of the gospel. The preaching was addressed particularly to Christians ; but Christ crucified was boldly proclaimed as the only way of salvation for sinful men of whatever name or nation. “We yet preach the whole counsel of God,” says Dr. Lobdell in a letter to Mr. Stod- dard, “ to Moslems as well as Christians, desiring to be 4 pure from the blood of all men,’ as I told the crowd the last day I was at the dispensary. Moslems listen with great interest, and applaud Protestant Christianity. It will not be long before Moslems can turn Christians in Turkey ; and we are doing John the Baptist’s work for them here — a work as necessary as Paul’s. How much we need the reviving influences of the Holy Ghost ! ” The dispensary was now the chief field of missionary labor. Yet the missionaries had frequent calls at their houses ; and there was scarcely a day in which Dr. Lobdell did not converse with many of all sects at his study, and always more or less directly upon the way of salvation by repen- tance towards God and faith in the Lord Jesus Christ. Often one sect was made the means of exposing the errors of another ; and then all alike were arraigned before the bar of God, and convicted by 44 the law and the testimony.” 26 * 306 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Even the native Christians, who two years ago never dared to speak to a Moslem on any point of religious difference, and who a year ago begged the missionaries to desist from preaching to the followers of Mohammed, now gathering Christian manliness from the example of their teachers, conversed with all on their souls’ salvation. “We have daily new evidence that the truths of the Bible are making a wide and deep impression. A score of Christians are now (March 10th, 1854,) sitting in my court, waiting for me to expound to them our doctrines. They are thowing off their fears of the priesthood ; and I am told that even the Chaldeans have stopped kissing pictures. The Jacobite clergy have all ceased to preach, except the archbishop, as many of their people know more about the Bible than they do ; and they are ashamed, either to preach from the Fathers, as they have been accustomed to do, or publicly to disown their authority. They simply attend to the rites of the church. It is about thirty years since, Joseph Wolf gave a Bible to a Jacobite deacon of Mosul. Before that time, there was not a com- plete copy in the city. Now multitudes have the Word in their hands, and not a few in their hearts. “ Thirty adults are now taught at their homes by an itinerant teacher in our employ ; and thirty more attend the male school regularly, or spend some hours there every day. One hundred piastres were recently contrib- uted in private by a day laborer not yet of our community, for the spread of the gospel. This sum is his wages for a month. Are there many Christians in America who con- tribute a twelfth part of their income for the evangeliza- tion of the world ? ” The sons of poor parents gave them- selves to be educated for the service of the church ; and the missionaries began already to agitate the question, whether it would not be better to establish a seminary at Mosul, than to send young men to Abeih. The gospel, when once it is fairly introduced, works like leaven — NATIVE ASSYRIAN MISSIONAKIES. 307 when it once begins to spread, it spreads often in a myste- rious way and with rapidly accelerating velocity. The missionaries at Mosul were one day surprised to hear that at Sat, a village in the mountains, which they had never visited, and of which they had scarcely heard, a Protest- ant community had been spontaneously organized, and its representatives had come to Mosul with the first tax already collected, to lay it at the pasha’s feet. Of course he was not slow to accept it, and they went away rejoicing. As the influence of Protestant Christianity extended, calls for instruction came from greater distances ; and the native helpers were sent out as missionaries, not only into the villages of the plain, but to the larger towns and cities up and down the Tigris. “ Kos Michael has returned from a tour to Jezireh, where he spent a few weeks preaching to the Jacobites. The way is fast opening there for steady missionary labor. We have recently made arrangements for a school in that city, and another at Nahrwan. “ Jeremiah and Micha are now absent on a missionary tour to Baghdad. They went down the Tigris by raft, and having scattered some seeds of Protestantism there, are expected to return by the way of Tekrit and Arbeel, preaching to the villages along their route. W e shall be disappointed, if great good is not accomplished by these native Assyrian missionaries. “ Mr. Marsh and myself accompanied them as far as Mmrood, where we examined some sculptured gods in human form, which have been recently exhumed.* The inscription on the largest statue is said to be more imj)or- tant than any hitherto found at Nimrood. The excava- tions at Koyunjik are still vigorously prosecuted, and several finely panelled rooms have just been laid open. The sculptures are the most finished and interesting of any yet discovered in Assyria. Yet scarcely half a dozen *Dr. L. sent an account of this day’s adventures and observations to the “ Independent.” 308 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. of the people of Mosul have felt interest enough in them to visit the ruins, though but a mile distant. Many Mos- lems go to Nebbi Yunus weekly, to pray in the mosk of Jonah ; but the disentombed idols of the heathen are to them objects of disgust. What a flood of light these discoveries are pouring upon the sacred W ord ! The end is not yet.” Dr. Lobdell’s journals and letters, at this as at every other period of his life, attest his great love of literature, science, and antiquities, and his earnest desire to contribute to their advancement, yet his determination to subordinate these and every other object of interest to the salvation of man and the advancement of the Redeemer’s kingdom. In a letter to Mr. Stoddard, dated Jan. 3, 1854, he says : “ I was greatly interested in your last letter to Bro. Williams, in which you speak of the variation of the magnetic me- ridian and other scientific topics. I should be strongly tempted to go into certain literary and scientific investiga- tions, which might be prosecuted here to advantage, were it not that higher employments demand almost all my strength. I have a great taste for natural history and antiquities. But the missionary can only sip at these fountains, and leave the full draught to the professed devotees of science.” So in regard to epistolary correspondence, which he greatly enjoyed, he did not suffer it to interfere with his work, and he did not wish his friends, much as he rejoiced in their letters, to write him when they had more impor- tant duties : “ Never let your correspondence with me (so he writes his former pastor, Rev. W. C. Scofield) inter- fere with your public duties, as I never mean to allow it to interfere with mine. All my letters are written in great haste, at odd intervals, and when no one is present with whom I may talk about the things of salvation, for you must know that missionary preaching is not on the THE JEWISH RABBI. 309 Sabbath only, but throughout the week it is ‘warning every one night and day.’ I seldom allow a man to leave my house without speaking to him of Christ. At present, March, 1854, I have a hundred patients daily — all sorts of diseases being represented, from leprosy down to scald- head. We preach salvation by Christ crucified ( the doc- trine most of all hated by Moslems) without reserve, and the truth daily triumphs. Our boldness may be danger- ous ; but we can not do otherwise than recommend Jesus to all .” Shiloam, the Jewish rabbi, whose imprisonment was mentioned in the last chapter, and in whose behalf the American missionaries, as well as the English consul at Mosul, interposed their best offices, was rescued from death through the influence of Sir Stratford Canning. The Sheikh el Islam at Constantinople reversed his sentence, and administered a severe rebuke to the Ulema for their blind fanaticism. The rabbi, however, purchased his life somewhat dearly, as he was ordered to report himself forthwith at Constantinople ; he was acquitted and saved, but he was indirectly robbed of his property and sent into exile. About the same time, the bigotry and persecuting zeal of the papalized Nestorians and Jacobites received a check. “ Last Sabbath evening, a Jacobite fled to my house in great terror. It seems that he and his brother were declaring to a crowd of Chaldeans and Jacobites, that Christ is the onlv Mediator, and that the Virgin Mary does not desire or approve of prayers offered to her- self; when, in lieu of other arguments, they were attacked by the worshipers of the Virgin, with threats of personal injury and even of imprisonment. The brothers took to flight, but one of them was soon seized by a cawass sent by the English consul on complaint of the Chal- deans through his papal brother, and the parties met face to face before the Protestant judge. Mr. Rassam did not 310 ' MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. fail to administer to the crowd a stern rebuke, and even to preach to them an expository sermon, closing with the remark that, c the Americans are preaching Protestant doctrines every day at their dispensary to scores and hun- dreds of Moslems, as well as Christians, and no one ever troubles them. 5 The Jacobite was discharged, and he and his brother, and a multitude of others, are allowed free speech among the Christian sects ; and even the Moslems listen with interest to their harangues .” The children of Mr. Williams and of Dr. Lobdell were in the habit of riding out for their health under the care of a servant, in wicker baskets of suitable dimensions, properly fitted, furnished, and protected from the sun, which were slung across the back of a donkey, one on either side, like the old-fashioned saddle-bags. It was a very convenient and not unpleasant fashion, imported from Oroomiah, and it attracted not a little attention from the boys and even “ children of a larger growth,” who some- times took the liberty to annoy them and to throw stones at them as they threaded the narrow streets. It became necessary to put a stop to this rude sport. Mr. Rassam was attentive and efficient in such matters. Several policemen were sent to hunt up the guilty parties. “ Three were imprisoned. One large boy, who had struck the ser- vant, was seized only by the police taking the chief man in his quarter as security, till he was delivered up ! This is a phase of Turkish law — making a town or quar- ter responsible for the evil done in it” Dr. Lobdell makes frequent mention in his journal, of such primitive usages of society, and also of still more primitive processes in labor, which were constantly attract- ing his observation. As examples of the latter may be instanced the use of the hands for a trowel, by masons; the use of the great toes as a vice, by carpenters and other mechanics ; the employment of a spade held by one man and drawn with a rope by another, as a scraper in ORIENTAL THEOLOGY. 311 digging trenches in the fields and gardens ; and the sons of the desert riding their fiery steeds with a mere halter, without hit or bridle. But nothing in all the Orient struck him so strangely as some of their crude and contradictory notions in theology, and the more crude and contradictory arguments by which they supported them. Sometimes in their idola- trous attachment to Mary, the so-called Christians would argue that Mary, Christ, and God were all the same, thus justifying and explaining the misapprehension which Dr. Lobdell found to be the prevailing idea of the Trinity among the Mohammedans, viz. : that it consists of the Father, the Son, and the Virgin Mary. At other times they would endeavor to explain away their Mariolatry, and would declare that they did not worship the Virgin, or pray to her. And then he would read to them from one of the prayers in their liturgy : “ Oh, Virgin Mary, pray for us ; oh, door of heaven ; oh, mother of divine grace ; oh, spotless mother ; oh, mother of the Creator ; oh, ref- uge of sinners ; oh, defence of Christians ; oh, queen of angels ! ” and a whole page of epithets equally extrava- gant and idolatrous. Even the Moslem women caught the language of their Christian sisters, and begged of the Doctor that he would heal them for the sake of the Virgin Mary . “ Who is she ? ” asked the Doctor of such a woman. “ They (i. e. the Christian women) say so.” “ Y es, but who is she ? ” “I d o n’t know.” “ Who is Christ ? ” “I do n’t know.” u Do you know who Allah is ? ” She looked up and smote her breast. “ Where is he ? ” “ I do n’t know.” “ What is he ? ” “ Allah — I only know that.” The only passage of Scripture by which those who prayed to the saints, attempted to justify the practice, was the prayer of the rich man to father Abraham in the parable of Dives and Lazarus, which, the Doctor told 312 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. them, did not appear to him to he a very encouraging example. The Jacobites advanced very inconsistent doctrines and arguments touching the character and condition of infants. In the course of the same discussion, the same men argued, 1st, that all unbaptized infants are lost ; 2d, that all chil- dren are sinless, since Christ came and took away the effects of original sin ; and 3d, all children are saved, if they die before they sin ; for Christ said, “ Of such is the kingdom of heaven.” “ Admirable consistency ! These people see but a short distance into logic.” The Protestant community at Diarbekr was not a little agitated at this time by the working of more or less of the old leaven of baptismal regeneration. “ Christ,” they argued, “ commanded his disciples to baptize as well as to preach the gospel ;” and they wished baptism for all , and that all moral Protestants, at least, should be admitted to the church. The truth was spreading, and there were doubtless true Christians among them. But two out of the three original members of the church (or rather com- munion, for Dr. Smith had not organized it formally or fully as a church) gave no suitable evidence of personal piety ; the man whom they had chosen for their civil head proved also to be a bad man ; and to complete the catalogue of their trials, the pasha, whom they had been so anxious to get rid of, was succeeded by a fresh and more hungry blood-sucker, who preyed upon all sects and all classes without mercy, though not without partiality, for he was particularly hostile to the Protestants. For example, he demanded of the candle-makers that they should sell him candles at thirty per cent, less than the cost, that he might speculate on them by sending them to Con- stantinople, and when they refused, he arrested them and made them sweep the streets in chains.* * One of them, who was a Protestant, made his escape, fled to Mardin, and there preached the gospel, like the persecuted disciples in the apostolic age. FIRST GENERAL MEETING. 313 These difficulties seemed to demand consultation. Ac- cordingly a meeting was held at Mosul — the first general meeting of the Assyrian Mission. Mr. Dunmore, and Mr. and Mrs. Walker, of Diarbekr, arrived at Mosul on the morning of the 6th of March, and the missionaries held daily meetings for business and for devotional exercises through ten successive days, at the same time enjoying such social and Christian intercourse — with psalms and hymns and spiritual songs, talking of old times and their old home, and of the better time and the better home that awaited them — as none can but missionaries, cer- tainly none but Christians in a strange land. The subjects that were discussed, and the conclusions that were reached, need not be specified. They made arrangements for a similar meeting the next year, and assigned subjects for examination during the interval. The Jews and the Yezi- dees were referred to the special consideration of Dr. Lobdell ; but he was never to report on it — never again to enjoy such a reunion. It was thought advisable that Mr. Marsh and Dr. Lob- dell should return with Messrs. Dunmore and Walker, and reorganize the church at Diarbekr, and, if possible, estab- lish the community there on a better foundation. They left Mosul on the 25tli of March. Their .general course was north-west. The first three days, they traveled across the desert, a wide plain destitute of trees and running water, but at this season covered with grass and flowers, once, probably, affording sustenance to a numerous and settled population, of which an occasional mound gives evidence, but now Avithout a single village or permanent habitation, peopled only by wandering Arabs and Koords, with their flocks and herds and tents. But our travelers were without fear, as they marched in caravan style by day, and at night pitched their tents near some nomadic camp, or beside some sluggish pool ; for they were guided by two sons of the desert, who led the way both mounted 27 814 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. on one deloul , (dromedary,) and commended tliem to the good will of their brethren ; and they were further pro- tected, in the most dangerous part of their journey, by a guard of horsemen from the city. On the fourth day, they passed Xisibin, (the ancient Hisibis,) now a mud town, with a solitary minaret, and a few moldering columns and arches scattered among its miserable hovels or in the plowed fields around, to tell of better days ; but interesting in its situation, near the sources of the Chabour, (the river Chebar of Ezekiel,) and once famous as the site of that truly “ noble ” theological school of the Xestorians, of which a Xorth African bishop of the sixth century speaks with wonder, because “the Holy Scriptures were expounded by teachers publicly appointed, in the same manner as grammar and rhetoric were among the Romans.” * The fourth night, they pitched their tents amid the melancholy ruins of Dara — fragments of walls, and gates, and arches, and temples — immense reservoirs, with remains of the aqueducts that brought down water from the low ranges of Jebel Tour — and splendid tombs, carved out of the solid rock, with rich architectural forms and ornaments, attesting at once the utility and the grandeur of Roman civilization, and bearing witness Avith equal explicitness to the barbarism of the Turk. The imagination of Gibbon was enkindled, as he described the former magnificence of this city and stronghold of the Romans, in their fierce struggles with the Persians on the remotest eastern border of their em- pire. Dr. Lobdell, as he gazed on the ruins, especially of the aqueducts and roads — those most characteristic signs and means of Roman civilization — was struck with won- der at the grandeur of that ancient empire, and felt that even England must wait long before she would arrive at such an elevation, and probably would never reach it. *See Nean&er’s Church History, vol. II. p. 150. Torrey’s Ed. MARDIN. 315 Dara is live hours north-west of Nisibin. After six hours’ further travel in the same direction the next day, they came on Saturday evening to Mardin, where they spent the Sabbath, “ receiving numerous calls from the Jacobites and Syrian Catholics. They looked on us with some suspicion; yet they evidently thought it best to investigate somewhat the Protestant faith. May the light break forth speedily in that city, which, though 6 set on a hill,’ gives not even 4 a dim religious light.’ W e might have kept further west, and reached Diarbekr without crossing the mountain ridges ; but we thought it desirable to see Mardin, the ecclesiastical capital of the Jacobites, especially as we are about to apply to the Prudential Com- mittee for missionaries to be stationed there. The town is built on the summit of a ridge of Jebel Tour, in a semi- circle, facing the great Mesopotamian plain on the south ; the houses rise in the bee-hive style, one cell above another ; and what a humming there is in the hive ! An old Saracenic castle rises ruinous yet venerable, like an acropolis, above the whole, and, guarded by half a dozen cannon and a few soldiers, commands the town. The castellated rock and Saracenic walls and mosks con- trast strangely with the rude structures now inhabited by Turks, Koords, Jacobites, Syrian Catholics, Armenian Catholics, and Chaldeans. Poverty and decay are written all over the city.” There was nothing particularly worthy of note on the remainder of their journey. The country — the Mesopota- mia of the Scriptures — was New-England-like in surface, though of course without New England villages or for- ests. They suffered much from the rain and cold. Two days from Mardin, brought them to feel the chilling blasts from Kara Dagh, of which they had so distinct a recollec- tion on the journey from Aleppo to Diarbekr; and on the third day, about noon, the minarets, domes, and walls of 816 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Diarbekr rose before them with a splendor which, at every new view, only excited increased admiration. During the stay of the brethren from Mosul, the church at Diarbekr was organized anew. Out of twenty candi- dates, whom they examined, eleven were accepted, who were constituted into a church, with a creed and cove- nant, in the presence of three hundred persons. Mean- while Dr. Lobdell was almost constantly employed in medical practice also, having a hundred Christian patients daily. The missionaries were still stoned and hooted at, every time they went into the streets ; but the gospel had already taken such a hold on the city, as in their view to insure its triumph. The infant church was subject to a severe trial at the commencement of its existence. Mrs. Dunmore could not live in the city in the summer. She was already at Arabkir, and it now became necessary for her husband to join her. It was not safe to leave Mr. and Mrs. Walker alone. The brethren from Mosul were so situated that neither of them could be away from their own station. In fine, it was reluctantly decided that Mr. and Mrs. Walker should go to Aintab ; and thus the little church would be left for the summer entirely in the hands of native helpers. They deplored the necessity. They felt deeply the want of reinforcements. Dr. Lobdell was agitating the question of going with Mr. Dunmore to Arabkir, to advise in reference to Mrs. Dunmore’s further continuance in the missionary field, when he was sum- moned to return to Mosul, by the increasing illness of Mrs. Williams. He returned by raft down the Tigris. And while he floated down the river, just as he had done two years before, he wrote an indefinite number of letters to his friends, corrected several mistakes in the map of Mr. Wyld, “ geographer to her Majesty, Queen Victoria,” enjoyed again the beautiful and the grand features of the more familiar but not less interesting landscape, and arrived in Mosul on the 21st of April, having performed, LETTER TO MR. CRANE. 317 in three days and a half, the distance which had taken nine days in the journey up by land, and having been absent from home about a month. Of the friendly and familiar letters which he wrote at this time, portions of two are subjoined. They illustrate his friendly and affectionate nature, his sympathy with the trials and afflictions of others, and his desire to comfort them with the consolation wherewith he himself was com- forted, even the peace of God, which passeth all under- standing. The first is to his Auburn friend and brother, Mr. Crane, stationed at Gawar. It is dated at Mosul, Jan. 4, 1854: Dear Brother Crane : — It pained me much to hear of the illness of our dear brother Rhea ; but we get some relief in the hope that he is now well again and about his customary labors. What a place is Gawar for a sick American in mid winter ! But I am glad you both have some knowledge of medicine. You see, your practice upon natives has a reflex benefit, as well as the sending forth of missionaries. I should judge that brother Rhea’s attack was very much like the one I had about the same time. When Kallash (the messenger) arrived, I was just getting out of my bed, where I had been for nearly a fortnight ; and I think the pleasant notes from my dear brethren over the mountains had much to do towards my restoration. It is almost half in the practice of medicine to keep the spirits up — to make the course of thought flow smoothly on. And I have no doubt, that the consoling influences of our Christian faith are often better for a diseased body, than all the calomel and opium in the world. It is ours to cherish this faith and hope, to be sup- ported by them in our hours of trial. I doubt not you endure your separation from your wife, in these times of peril, far more easily from your trust in God, and from a 27* 318 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. conviction that it is his will. Oh, what a peace of mind — a peace passing the limits of the understanding — does a true faith in an omnipresent and loving God afford those who are in danger and doubt ! Give me this peace, and the world may have its gold and its baubles. I want it when I am lying on a sick-bed here among the ashes of Nineveh, not knowing what is to become of wife and babes — I want it when fierce Koords point their guns at my bosom and seize their daggers with murder in their eyes — I want it in perils by sea and by land — and at all times I want it — God’s best gift to man. The other letter is to Dr. Perkins, the memory of whose more than brotherly kindness was still fresh and fragrant in his heart. It is dated, Mosul, Feb. 6, 1854: Dear Brother: — Your full letter of Jan. 14th con- tained many interesting thoughts, and I regret that I have too little time to give it such a reply as it deserves. But you will “ take the will for the deed,” and allow me to hurry through my note, that I may this evening answer the letters of my other correspondents in your quarter. Somehow, I feel a sort of filial obligation to give my first attention to your letters ; I can not drive from my mind, if I would, the thought of your paternal care of me, while lodging under your roof. And when I speak of filial obli- gations, I want your good wife to understand, that she comes in for a share. The Lord bless and comfort you both, as you go on your pilgrimage. Your allusion to the probability of Henry’s having a feeble hold on life, makes me deeply interested in him, and I shall not forget him in my poor prayers. Should he also lead your way to heaven, what could make you wish to linger longer “here ? Surely if one’s treasures are all in heaven, his heart will be there also. I thank you for sending me that pleasant note of Mrs. LETTER TO DR. PERKINS. 319 Sigourney’s, with her beautiful lines — “ Judith Grant Perkins.” How delightful for you to think of her, as “ Where by the River of the Blest, Your ‘Persian Flower’ will fade no more .’ 7 My little ones are both now suffering with severe colds, and the thought of the possibility of either of them being taken away, chastens the joys which I feel in their presence and smiles. But here too we may profitably trust . I believe I have a great affection for children, and it often cheers me to think of the little ones in your circle. I wonder if some of them can not be induced to pray daily for our little Mary, if I will promise them that Mary shall pray for them ? Suppose I make such an arrangement with Henry, and begin before his assent comes! I think it does children good to think of others whom they have never seen even, as interested in them. Mr. Stern’s Kitty, who was in Mosul a few days last winter, has not yet passed from Mary’s mind ; and I suppose Katy Cochran still remembers the burial of her dear Judith. Our readers will not ask any apology for this beautiful picture of domestic tenderness, with its mingled sorrows and joys, in the life of earnest and whole-souled mission- aries. Parents and children both, we are sure, will admire it ; we trust they will also learn from it some valuable lessons of parental duty and early piety. CHAPTER XVI. Riots at Mosul — Intercourse with Mosul Dignitaries — The Cadi — The Kai- makam — Yiehye Effendi — The Prince of the Scholars — The Prince of the Merchants — The Pasha — Death of Yiehye Effendi and Moollah Yussuf — Burial Rites — Moslem Bigotry — Journey with Mrs. Williams for her Health — Akra — Paradise — Morality no part of Religion — Dr. Bacon — Rural Scene — Increased Illness of Mrs. Williams — Death — Return to Mosul — Sickness of Mr. Williams — Death again in the Missionary Circle — Death of Friends in America — Of Mr. Crane — Missionary Work — Plot for an Insurrection — Letter to the Tribune in Defence of Missions — To the Society of Inquiry at Andover — Anti-Slavery Circular — Notes on Xenophon’s Anabasis — Contributions to the American Oriental Society — Letters of Professors Salisbury and Whitney — Theology. In the summer of 1854, Mosul was disturbed by more than one attempt at riot and insurrection, proceeding partly from political and partly from religious motives. The war which involved the fate not of the empire only, but perhaps of Islam itself, excited the fanatical passions of the people ; and troops which were enlisted for the service of the Sultan, in the remotest provinces of his dominions, seized on every opportunity for plunder and acts of violence. Some two thousand Koords from Akra and its vicinity, finding themselves together in Mosul, with arms in their hands, and further incited by Moslems in the city, began to insult the Christians, wherever they met them in the streets. They tore off the white kerchiefs of the Jews and native Christians. They met Dr. Lobdell, and cried, “Ho, Franjee, (Frank,) let us kill him.” The Greeks, whom they called Russians, were especially obnox- ious to their ferocious assaults. Even Moslems were not exempt from their insults. They shot at one, pierced another with a dagger, entered private houses for plunder K00RDISII SOLDIERS. 321 and for worse purposes, till there was no safety either in going abroad or staying at home. At length the English Consul, followed by nearly a hundred Christians, went to the palace, (the Koords bring over their heads as they went,) and told the pasha that unless he ordered the Koords out of town at once, he, the consul, would start forthwith for Constantinople ; that then, in two hours, the Christians would be massacred, and their blood would be on the pasha’s head ; whereas, if he would act energet- ically, he would put a tall feather in his cap at the capital. Moved by mingled threats and flatteries, the pasha sent for Ressoul Pasha, (commander of these Koordish recruits,) and ordered him to have some forty-five of his men bas- tinadoed. The order was executed, the blows being laid upon the backs and not upon the feet of the victims ; and then the whole body were marched out of the city with their guns and jugs and plunder, and soon sent on their way to the seat of the war. Some days elapsed before the city was quieted, and the Christians relieved of their apprehensions. There were still rumors of aft intended insurrection among the Moslems. “The Christians — women especially — are in great terror. F ew go into the streets. The pasha peregrinates the city in a mask. Spies are out. Squads of soldiers are on the watch. The sol- diers themselves are not to be trusted, as they belong to the town. Rassam’s horse fell with him to-day, to the great joy of the Moslems standing around; they deem it an omen.” Before the close of the summer, we shall see how they further plotted for the fulfillment of the omen in the death of the consul, and the massacre of the entire Christian population. After this riot, Dr. Lobdell saw more than usual of the Turkish dignitaries. Among others, he called on his old ^acquaintance, the Cadi. “ He showed me a fine Persian manuscript, ornamented with gilt and Cube. Tea was passed. He gave me a long history of his sickness, and 322 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. his refusal to take medicines prescribed by his physicians ; and was horrified at my proposal that he should take a little wine in his weakness. I told him that if the greatest man in our country refused to take the medicine ordered by a physician, the doctor would have nothing to do with him, and that this was my rule in Mosul ! He thanked me for my advice, and I left. Met Koords and Aghas of the town on my way home — all sullen. Still the aristoc- racy affect to oppose the fanatics. Sheriff Bey and the Cadi himself are thought to be favorable to the rioters.” The next day, May 6th, he received a call from the commander of the troops, the Kaimakam or Colonel, and his doctor. “ Prescribed for him, and then talked of the state of the town. The Colonel admitted that he and the other officials were greatly afraid of the insurgents ; but he thinks the danger is over. I do not. Ramadan is just at hand Visited Yiehye Effendi, one of the fallen aristocracy, now sick — my warm friend, and one of whom I am not ashamed. May I strive more and more for his salvation. He is intelligent, honest, and inquiring. Met Abd Allah Effendi, the most learned man of the town. Refused to prescribe for a man brought near to death under the care of the phlebotomizing padres. The prac- tice of bleeding every body was introduced here by the Italian quacks, and now it is the great specific. I seldom bleed, even in this hot climate.” “ Seyid Shahab asks me if Latin is my vernacular, and if the characters are the same as the English. He was greatly indignant when I read from Ockley’s History of the Saracens, on native authority, that Mohammed acknowledged his inferiority to Christ by praying to him, whereas the other prophets prayed to Mohammed himself.” “May 12th. Hussein Chelebi ibn Haj Murad, the prince* of the merchants of Mosul, called. One of his attendants told me that his horse was the best one this side of heaven ! VISIT TO TIIE PASHA. 323 Neither lie nor his companions could get much idea of my big maps. A Yankee boy of six years knows more about the world, than the most learned man in Mosul. It is interesting to see the great men here display what knowl- edge they have to one another, and yet all ‘cave in ’ to us : ‘they are Franjee — they know every thing.’ This Hus- sein has never seen the Koyunjik excavations — a very learned man ! “ May 25. Accompanied Jeremiah to the pasha’s palace. At first, went to the vice-pasha’s. His barber was trim- ming him down. He is a proud, fine-looking fellow ; was dressed in gay colors, having on a green toga, lined with light-colored fur. The chief scribe forgot his anger at me for not seeing him when sick a year and a half ago. Coffee without sugar. Talk. “ Thence went to the reception room of the pasha. The deftardar (treasurer) was in. Both received us pleasantly, and I had a very interesting conversation with the pasha respecting our work here, our motives, and our general arrangements, and the state of Tel Keif. He says, that if a few men will come to him from that place, and say they want a teacher from us, they shall be protected ; but Kos Michael can not go, as the Sultan forbids it. I was surprised at the cordiality of the pasha, and was glad to make him acquainted with our faith. Next went to the Kaimakam’s (Colonel’s). Sherbet and coffee. Pleasant chat; saw sick men; examined Jewish doctor’s medi- cines — left, glad I had gone to see the dignitaries, as they had sent for me. The pasha evidently has a desire to cul- tivate our friendship. I think it is well to be on good terms with him.” Dr. Lobdell was soon called to mourn the death of his Mussulman “ friend,” Yiehye Effendi, without any satisfac- tory hope that he was a believer in Jesus. The Koran was read through, or rather rehearsed entire, every day for three days, at the mosk nearest his house, by four or 324 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. five blind men, the Oriental representatives of the blind rhapsodists of ancient Greece. The body was wrapped from head to foot in wide sheeting, laid in the shallow grave on the right side, with the face looking towards Mecca, and then, without any coffin, covered with flat stones ; and the Moslems thought little more of the matter, but Dr. Lobdell could not help asking, with deep solicitude, Where is his soul ? A few days after, Moollah Yusuf, the once Christian priest, whose conversion by violence has been narrated in a former chapter, sent for the doctor to come and see him ; but he was prevented from going. The next day, he heard that the poor Moollah was dead. The following incident illustrates the bigotry of the Moslems : “ Yezdinshir Bey, nephew of Beder Khan Bey, called. I showed him a printed copy of the Koran. He said I must not read it ! This was a Moslem book. It did not belong to a Christian. I was reminded of the man who snatched a copy from my hand while at a book- stall in Tabreez. This bey went on to say how united the Moslems are, and always have been, and how the Christians are split into sects. I spoke of the Persian Shiihs ; but he said, we do not recognize them as Mos- lems ; they do not receive the Koran as it is. I told him, they pretend to, which is the case with many who call themselves Christians ; but they only are true Christians, who receive the Bible as it is. This argument he could appreciate.” Ever since Dr. Lobdell’s recall from Diarbekr on her account, Mrs. Williams had been oscillating between the hope of recovery and the fear of a decline. But as the summer advanced, the symptoms grew more unfavorable, and it became apparent that she could not long endure the excessive heat of Mosul. Neither did there seem to be any considerable prospect of her safe removal to a cooler climate. Still she was very anxious to try the JOURNEY TO MOUNTAINS WITH MRS. WILLIAMS. 325 experiment, and the Doctor, though with great misgivings, yielded to her request, and accompanied his patient, with her husband and children, on a journey to the mountains, with the expectation, if she should be found to endure the journey, that Dr. Wright would meet the party there, and, taking Dr. Lobdell’s place, conduct them to Oroo- miah. Mrs. Williams, the nurse, and baby, were put into covered frames with seats, which being bound to the sides of a mule, furnished a tolerably comfortable carriage, as well as protection from the morning and evening sun. The two eldest children, (a little boy and girl), rode in a pair of baskets, pannier-like, on a mule’s back. The fam- ily, the physician, the interpreter, and the baggage, made up a train of a dozen animals, besides the guards, that accompanied them. They left Mosul on the evening of the 13 th of June, crossed the Tigris on the high-pro wed ferry boats, whose form has come down unchanged from the days of Sennacherib, and at the request of Capt. Lof- tus, who was now excavating there, in the employ of the Assyrian Society, passed the first night on the mound of Koyunjik. The next morning they started across the ruins of Nineveh, while the sun was yet hid behind the peaks of Koordistan. It was the same month, and the same day of the month, on which Dr. Lobdell had set out, the year before, on his tour to Oroomiah. And they traveled amid the same rustic scenes which he then described, — peasants reaping and threshing their grain, women winnowing and grinding it, shep- herds watching their flocks of sheep and goats, — with now and then a mound marking the site of an ancient town, perchance, also, of a modern village. They passed on, as rapidly as the invalid could bear, for three days, or rather three nights, for they could not travel at all in the heat of the day, till they came to Akra, a Koordish town, about sixty miles from Mosul, and in a direction a little north of east, where the cool air of the mountains strives 28 326 MEMOIR OF LOEDELL. almost in vain to neutralize the heat of the plain. There, on the borders of the territory of the ancient Carduchi, they were detained ten days, Mrs. Williams not being in a condition to travel. “ The town is built on the south side of a cliff belonging to the Koordish range forming the eastern boundary of the jDlain of Navkoor, through which pass the Gomel (Gaugamela) and Khazir rivers, the two uniting at a point visible from the town, to form the Bumadus. By means of the small streams gushing out of the mountain, the vales between the ridges are thor- oughly irrigated, and the gardens are pictures of loveli- ness, — the Oriental paradises are always gardens filled with fruit-bearing trees. I noticed at Akra the mulberry, plum, olive, pear, apple, English walnut, apricot, pome- granate, and fig ; grapes also are produced in abundance.” It is from this very region, — ancient Persia, — that we derive the word paradise, and it is from such scenes of almost unearthly beauty and loveliness, where, under the combined influence of a tropical sun and an abundant sujDply of water, flowers bloom and fruits ripen perpetu- ally, amid rugged mountains and barren deserts, — it is from such scenes that the sacred writers have borrowed the imagery by which they would fain give us some faint conception of the Paradise of God, as contrasted with the roughness and barrenness of the present life. But like Sheikh Laui, which he visited the previous year, this was “ Paradise Lost.” The Koords are bigoted Mohammedans, and ferocious tyrants. The Jews and Christians are ignorant and suj)erstitious slaves, and afforded ample room for philanthropic and missionary labor, whenever the Doctor could be spared from attend- ance on the suffering invalid. They were frightened beyond measure, when he asked to see an amulet which was worn on the neck of a young Koord, and finding it to be a neat little volume of extracts from the Koran, pre- sumed to read aloud from the book in the presence of the CORRUPT CHRISTIANITY. 327 Koords. Had a native Christian clone the same, his head would have paid the penalty. Their religion, consisting almost exclusively of a few external rites and ceremonies, is at an equal remove from evangelical faith and from genuine good works. Morality has nothing to do with it, and the virtues that should adorn the Christian character, are deemed quite impracticable. “ Do you love that man by your side?” said Dr. Lobdell, one day, to a Jacobite. “ I love him with my face,” he replied, “ not with my heart.” When asked if they ever lied, they invariably answered by asking, “ Is there a man living who does not lie ? ” A Syrian proved that he was not destitute of faith, by relating a preposterous popish miracle of recent occurrence, and declaring that he believed it. Another was sure he was not a drunkard, for, “not that which goeth into the mouth defileth a man, but that which com- eth out of the mouth, this defileth a man ; ” and he did not drink enough for that, — he did not drink more than ten cups of arrack a day ! Strong drink is distilled from raisins, by a rude and simple domestic process ; so that almost every house is a distillery. And drunkenness is so common among the poor Christians of Akra, that the Moslems define a Christian to be, “ one who drinks rum, and calls Esa (Jesus) the Son of God ” The fact that the Protestants in Turkey are temperance men, Dr. Lob- dell remarks in this connection, does as much to conciliate the Moslems, as the fact that they do not bow to pictures and worship more than one God. The Jacobite priest apologized for the vices of the people by their poverty, and for their ignorance by the fact that he was poor, and had no time to instruct them. The church is a cavern high up among the rocks above the town, unlighted by the sun, and constantly damp by the dripping of the water. Its chief treasures are a few Syriac and Carshuni * Arabic in Syriac characters. 328 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. manuscripts, containing the church service, and the sacred dust of unknown generations of their fathers, whose bodies the Koords will not allow them to bury any where outside the walls of the churchyard. Dr. Lobdell’s compassion was much excited in behalf of these poor and oppressed Christians, and he did what he could, in frequent interviews with the priests and the people, to give them clearer and more correct ideas of the religion of the Bible. “ There are six hundred houses in the place. Sixteen are Jacobite, sixteen Chaldean, forty Jewish, the remain- der Koordish. The governor is a Koord, — the rival of Mustapha Aglia, of Zibar, who wrote the letter to Khan Afdal, to procure the murder of Dr. Bacon and his com- panions, three years ago. The moollah, who saved their lives, is still regarded with great veneration, for his sanc- tity, which is said to be unequalled by any of the moun- taineers. Their escape seems to me almost miraculous.” But we must return to the tent, which our travelers, after having slept the first night in the street, pitched the next day (Saturday) among the rocks and trees by a running brook, near the town, expecting to spend the Sabbath only, and then to continue their journey. But Mrs. Williams was taken worse, and brought nigh unto death ; the children also were afflicted with ophthalmia in a severe form. There was a sunny as well as a shady side to the picture of their situation, as Dr. Lobdell sketched it to his mother, when Mrs. W. was some better. Had he been alone — could he have forgotten his almost dying sister, his afflicted brother, and their suffering chil- dren — he would greatly have enjoyed the place. “The air is so balmy at night, that I sleep under a spreading mulberry, which occasionally drops its white fruit upon my bed, and sometimes into my mouth. Three times a day I have access to a table spread Avith bread, honey, cake, rice, tea, cobdb , smead , lebn> mulberries, apricots, DEATH OF MRS. WILLIAMS. 329 and a kind of plum. At evening, numerous Christians come for conversation on Protestantism, and European art and science. The seeds of truth are sown, and prom- ise, even on this hard soil, to bear fruit. Daily I prescribe for sick Ivoords and Christians, and receive their benedic- tions. While not asleep, I can gaze upon the pomegran- ate bushes, hung with scarlet flowers and green fruit; upon the spreading fig-trees, whose light-colored branches remind one of a fat baby’s arms, the green fruit sucking up the milky sap, and the great leaves recalling the aprons of Adam and Eve in the garden of God ; upon the vines that run luxuriantly from tree to tree, and their pendent clusters ; upon the large fresh walnut-trees, with their round balls of fruit ; deep green olives ; bushy plums ; apple-like apricot trees, and small apple orchards — a paradise like those you fancy to exist in the tropics, where birds sing, human voices echo, brooks murmur, and every man sits under his own vine and fig-tree.” But in the tent near by, was the sick mother, stretched upon a bed on the ground, not knowing but it was to be her dying bed, the anxious husband hanging over her and ministering to her, and the distressed children gath- ering around her — the thermometer, hanging from a pomegranate branch in the tent, indicates, at two in the afternoon, a temperature of from 87° to 93°, and the patient’s pulse, as the doctor anxiously feels it, counts from a hundred to a hundred and twenty. It was not till Tuesday, the 27th of June, that they moved onward, and that with little or no hope that Mrs. W. would ever reach Oroomiah. The rest is briefly told in the words of Dr. Lobdell: “We went eastward a few hours, and all slejDt on our quilts sjwead upon the ground under the clear sky. The next morning, we came to Kapusa, a dirty village of Koorcls, which had been deserted by the people on account of the fleas. We spent the heat of the day under a mulberry tree, and left at 28* 330 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. evening, while the mercury in the shade stood at 102°. On over a rolling country, amid shrubs and rocks, we rode an hour and a half, arriving at a miserable village, (Kallate), where the invalid thought she was to die. We slept upon a roof, and the next day welcomed Dr. Wright from Persia. We could go no farther, and on the 29th, at sunset, were on our way back towards Mosul, our sick friend being anxious to go there to die, but most of the time unconscious of the incidents and fatigues of the way. On the last day of J une, we reached Akra again ; a litter was made, twelve Christians bore it, and the next morn- ing at six o’clock, while moving on the road, that litter became a bier ! An hour farther, and a rough box was made ready for her we had loved. The children knew not what had happened. At evening, the box was bound upon a mule ; we rode silently without stopping for four- teen hours, and recrossed the city of Nineveh shortly after sunrise. The flag of the English consul was thrown over the body as we crossed the Tigris. A narrow house had already been prepared for it outside the walls, (not even the dead body of a Moslem could have been carried within the gates) ; Mr. Marsh had a short service ; and there we laid the wife, the mother, down to her last sleep. The Lord watch over that dust, and bring it again to life. Such is our pilgrimage ; but we journey home to God.” Worn out with watching and sorrow, Mr. Williams was soon laid upon a bed of severe sickness, and the care of him and his motherless children devolved on the other two missionary families. Meanwhile, the first-born child of Mr. and Mrs. Marsh, a few days after it had seen the light, was committed to the earth by the side of Mrs. Williams. None but a missionary physician can fully understand the weight of care and anxiety which thus fell upon Dr. Lobdell, who, from the very nature of his united professions, always bore a double load of duties and responsibilities. He thus writes on the subject to his REPEATED AFFLICTIONS. 331 brother physician at Oroomiah, in a letter dated Mosul, Aug. 1st, 1854 : “ Again I must write the word death! An hour since, the breath of mortal life heaved for the last time the little lungs of the sweet babe that God gave our brother and sister Marsh twelve days ago ; now he rejoiceth in the freedom and the glory of immortality. Again let us say, ‘The Lord gave and the Lord hath taken away: blessed be the name of the Lord.’ You will be glad to know that the afflicted parents feel a sweet and peaceful resignation under this blow — I may almost say they rejoice under it, for the little one had suffered so much for three days, that it was a relief to their minds to know that his spirit had passed gently away, as my wife was bending over his little pillow. Thus it is, our merciful Father prepares us for afflictions. He gives us strength sufficient for our day. With the announcement of this sad event, which, however, produces joy among the ministering angels, I can say a word of encouragement in regard to Mr. Williams. Lie is quite relieved from pain, is sitting up, and, I think, is likely to conquer the fever that has been upon him in an inter- mittent form, every day for ten days. The seat of his trouble was his head ; and the paroxysms were so violent at times as to excite fears of the brain becoming seriously affected. What a weight of responsibility is thrown on one who has to direct in these cases of serious sickness ! Who is sufficient for these things, as well as for preaching the gospel ? During the sickness of Mr. Wil- liams, I have had four, instead of two, preaching services during the week, besides the writing of from forty to eighty prescriptions daily ; and all this in a semi-under- ground room, where the air gets quite polluted during the examination of so many dirty patients, having every variety of disease. I have never had better health, how- ever than now. Of course, the want of invigorating 332 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. exercise is felt ; but by sleeping in mid-heaven, so to call the pinnacle of my palace, which overlooks nearly the whole city, the Tigris, the ruins of Nineveh, and the wide sweeping plain to the west, I feel every morning quite strengthened for the day’s labors. How much I have said about our bodies! Well, without bodies, what are we good for in this fleshly world ? Mens sana in coipore sano — this we must have, if we shall do any thing for our Master. We are warned, too, that what we do must be done quickly, with our might. But how little might we have! We will trust that in our weakness is our strength. It is only when we feel how weak we are, that we go to him who is omnipotent, and pray for power.” It was not long before, that he had heard of the death of a college classmate and intimate friend. Of this and previous bereavements, the sorrow of which was renewed by this, he thus writes in his journal: “Peek, my dear brother, classmate, chum, is dead. Oh, what a blow! Blessed be God, that I may hojDe to meet him in heaven, and again rejoice with him. He seems to have made a strong impression wherever he preached. I do not believe he now regrets not having studied law. He, his wife, and Poland gone from the little circle of united hearts! Well, I am glad for the sake of the cause of missions, that it is not L. and I that have gone so soon ; for then all would have said, it was because they were missionaries . They forget that others die at home ! ” And it was but a little while after the afflictions at Mosul, that he heard of the death of his seminary friend and missionary brother, Mr. Crane of Gawar. “ What an affliction,” he writes Dr. Perkins under date of Sept. 7th, “has come upon our dear Mrs. Crane, and upon your mission ! Her husband, it seemed to me, both in Auburn and Gawar, was a most lovely Christian. His self-denial has met its reward; he has gone before to glory. Oh that we may profit by this chastisement from the Lord! THE PURITY OF HEAUEN. 333 Will not the Lord draw us to himself by our great afflictions ? When I think of the purity of heaven, I feel that I must make great advances in spirituality before I shall be ready to enter it. Blessed be God for his grace in Christ, for a robe not tattered and soiled, but white and whole, the robe of the Lamb, ready-made and waiting to cover the nakedness of the poor saint. I thank God I am not to wear the rags of my own righteousness to heaven. I am constantly patching them up here — may I soon be able to lay them aside altogether and for ever.” This strong desire of his heart grew stronger daily; and it was not long to remain unaccomplished. These trials and labors were, by the grace of God, fast ripening him for heaven. Of the missionary work at this time, he speaks as fol- lows, in a letter to Dr. Anderson, written on the last day of July: “ Our work in the city is as prosperous as we could expect it to be. I often feel that if we should simply sit here, doing very little actual labor, we should accomplish as much for Christ as we could by our utmost exertions in America. But we are not obliged to be idle. Our ordinary religious services are maintained at the chapel and the dispensary. The arrival of some chain pumps from the United States has excited much inquiry about American ingenuity ; and some have even said, 4 If these missionaries can draw up water with a chain, their religion must be true.’ The machines bid fair to revolu- tionize the old mode of irrigation. “ Kos Michael has been sent to Mardin for a few months to preach the gospel. What success he has had thus far, we do not yet know ; but we have reason to hope that his tour will not be fruitless. The pasha promises me that if he shall receive an order from the Porte, revoking the prohibition of his going to Tel Keif, he will cheerfully protect him. But while the French are in such favor with the sultan, we can hardly expect to see full justice done 334 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. when the interests of the papal church are at stake. The persecution of this man has been, from the beginning, a most outrageous affair. “ Haying letters from Jezireh, requesting one of us to go there and organize a Protestant community, and hay- ing applications to open schools in several villages of Jebel Tour, and it being impossible for one of our number to leave, Jeremiah has been sent to investigate the facts. It is very desirable that we get the start of the papists in opening schools in Jebel Tour, and we hope that Jere- miah’s visit will be of much service in making known more generally the nature of the Protestant faith. There is the stronghold of the Jacobites. “ The increased interest in education at Mosul is of the most cheering character. At the beginning of the year, we had but twenty scholars ; now we have more than a hundred. It is getting to be understood that all who become Protestants, ground their faith on evidence ; and it is exceedingly gratifying to us that our brethren are almost invariably able to give the reason for the hope that is in them, and also that they do it with a good conscience, in meekness and fear.” In the same letter, Dr. Lobdell relates the further devel- opment of the plot for insurrection, which was checked by the bastinado and the removal of the Koords, but, because vengeance against an evil work was not executed speedily on the instigators, and owing also to the inca- pacity of the pasha, broke out again, and threatened most disastrous consequences. “ The plan was to murder the dragoman of the English consul ; and while attending his funeral, professing to mourn his death, the conspirators — all belonging to that part of the aristocracy of the town who had some pique against the government — were to rise upon the Franks and wealthy native Christians, and then proceed to plunder. At midnight, just as the fast of Ramadan gave way to the fanatical feasting of Byram, INSURRECTION AT MOSUL. 335 wliilo the dragoman of Mr. Rassam was returning home from a visit to the pasha, two men in masks sprung out from a lane between him and his attendants. One stopped the horse ; the other fired a pistol at the rider. Both then fled. A servant chased them, when one of the culprits turned and fired a ball at him, but without effect. The dragoman, who is the most influential native Christian of the place, fell from his horse wounded ; but the ball had only passed through the forearm. Hundreds flocked daily to his house to offer him their sympathy ; and none were so attentive as the chief conspirators, who, no doubt, all the time regretted that the ball had not passed through a more vital part. Two young Moslems were seized by the pasha as the assassins, and though there was a strong attempt to throw the blame on the Christians, one of the men turned state’s evidence, and revealed the fact that he had been offered a thousand piastres to kill Joma, (the dragoman,) and that he had induced the other to assist him. The persons who offered the bribe, were found to be two of the most influential men of the town ; and they were sent under a strong escort to Baghdad to await the orders of the Porte. A third dignitary, the chief instiga- tor of the plot, has since been seized and confined, and the names of a dozen others are recorded, and their move- ments are closely watched by the police. “Both the English and the French consuls think that we Americans have had as narrow an escape as they them- selves ; and though they have no special fear that any further attempt will be made to produce a riot, they have deemed it best to use their influence at Constantinople to secure the removal of the inefficient pasha, who, but a short time since, received from the Sultan the title of Beglar Bey, or Lord of Lords. There is little doubt that the dig- nitaries, who have thus twice set the city in an uproar, will find honorable exile with such worthies as Beder Khan Bey. It is a matter for devout thanksgiving to God, that 836 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. he has permitted us to pursue our labors unmolested in the midst of these late excitements.” Two letters on missions, which were written by Dr. Lobdell in the summer of 1854, well deserve a place in this memoir, and would be inserted entire, but for the press of other matter. The first is addressed to the editor of the New York Tribune, and was designed as a defence of Christian missions against an unfavorable, though not intentionally unfriendly remark of Bayard Taylor in refer- ence to missions in India, who, while “ testifying to the zeal and faithfulness of those who labor in the cause,” still had “ not witnessed any results which satisfied him that the vast expenditure of money, talent, and life, in mission- ary enterprises, had ever been repaid.” Waiving the con- sideration of spiritual and religious results in a secular journal, Dr. Lobdell examines the subject in a purely social, political, and economical light, and comparing the expenditures and results of the Sandwich Islands mission with those of the United States exploring expedition, and the outlays and achievements of the missions to Turkey, India, and China, with those of European governments in the same countries, he shows that the former have been incomparably more economical than the latter; that, in fact, no other expenditures of money, and talent, and life, whether in the improvement of government and society at home, or in extending knowledge and civilization in foreign lands, have been so fruitful of beneficent results — results to commerce and civilization, to geography and history, to literature and science, to humanity and philan- thropy, to say nothing of religion, as those of Christian missions. “If any body needs instruction,” he argues in conclusion, “it is surely the pagan; and few indeed are the men who have engaged in the work, that have not found it full of promise for the life that now is, as well as for that which is to come. They have seen their people put whitewash on their mud houses, clean their floors. LETTERS ON MISSIONS. 837 observe order and neatness at home and abroad, practice temperance and all the Christian virtues themselves, and teach them to their children. They have seen a taste for knowledge spread all around them ; they have seen idols and superstitious rites give place to Christ, and have almost invariably found it good to be a missionary.” The other letter is addressed to the Society of Inquiry in the Theological Seminary at Andover, in which he says that he considers the doctrine as established, that at the pres'ent time “ every able-bodied, energetic, devoted, hope- ful foreign missionary accomplishes more good than he possibly could in America. The good he secures, is not confined to the number of converts under his ministry ; but he lays the foundation of a glorious temple, destined to embrace the entire population among whom he dwells.” After adverting to facts in the history of missions in Tur- key, Persia, India, China, and the islands of the sea, which illustrate and establish this proposition, he says, “ J ust as soon as the church began to obey the Saviour’s command to go and preach the gospel to every creature, God opened the way ; and the false systems of ages are disappearing. It remains for the church to say, whether the work shall be completed soon, or after some ages.” He then goes on to speak of the happiness of the missionary life, the high preference which every missionary entertains for his own field over the most exalted post of usefulness in America, the great demand for more laborers, especially in western Asia, and the crushing weight of duties and responsibili- ties which are devolved upon those who are in the field, because the harvest is so great and so ripe, and the labor- ers are so few. “I have just written to Dr. Anderson,” he says, “ proposing next summer to go temporarily to Asheta, if the committee will send out a family to accom- pany me thither, and meet Mr. Rhea, who is anxious to come from Gawar. If I leave to spend my summers there, Mosul will be left weak. Indeed, I may say almost every 29 338 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. station of our Board is suffering from debility — a debility which implies guilt somewhere. Here is found the secret of the shortness of missionary life ! I am often exhorted by friends in America not to commit suicide by over-work. But one must be an extreme conservative , if he would keep quiet when there is such a call for labor — such a scarcity of the word of life. “ Come, then, brethren, to our aid, three of you at least. W e will give you a warm welcome, and assure you, that however hard the field, if you have the true missionary spirit, you will bless God for the privilege of cultivating it. The best gift which Andover can this year make to the church, is a large majority of her graduating class to the service of the American Board? Dr. Lobdell’s letters to the members of the Ne.^torian mission at this time, show his deep interest in the mission- ary circular protesting against American slavery. He thought that Christian consistency demanded of the mis- sionary who testified against oppression and heathenism abroad, that he should testify against oppression and heathenism at home ; that Christian patriotism required him, to the extent of his influence, to wipe away the one foul blot that sullied his country’s good name in the eyes of foreign nations ; and that Christian manliness forbade his submission to the silence which some would enforce upon him because he was a missionary. “ I can not get over the impression,” he says, “ that the missionary is a man , and that, while among men, he ought to speak like a man? The leisure hours, or rather the spare moments of the summer, his least busy season, Dr. Lobdell improved, as usual, and made them tributary to the cause of letters. He wrote at this time the notes on the Anabasis of Xeno- jfiion, which appeared as an article in the Bibliotheca Sacra for April, 1857. Beginning at the site of ancient Nineveh, he traverses the whole field of the exploits of NOTES ON XENOTIION’s ANABASIS. 339 the Ten Thousand Greeks, describes the ruined cities, explores the antiquities, elucidates the geography and topography, illustrates the arms, costumes, customs, and manners of the people, which, like the face of the country and the mounds, have remained almost without change since the days of Xenophon, and explains the modes of travel, measures of distance, and ways of crossing streams, which are the same now as they were in the time of the As- syrian kings — in short, explains local allusions and illus- trates whatever admits of illustration by personal knowl- edge of that great Mesopotamian valley and those lofty Koordish mountains, which were the principal theater of the events recorded in the Anabasis. The notes were the result of his own observations and reflections on the ground; and they are, if not a new, yet an original and valuable contribution to the right understanding and appreciation of that favorite classic. The reader will get some idea of the circumstances under which this article was written, and also of the freshness, playfulness, and versatility of the writer, by putting together two paragraphs of a letter to his brother, which was written at the same time with the article. “ Oh for a piece of maple sugar ! Oh for an ice cream ! 4 Oh for a lodge in some vast wilderness, some boundless contiguity of shade] in these tremendous heats ! The mercury rises daily to 110° or more, and at night only gets down to 85° or 90 Q . At sunset it is generally about 100°.” 4 There is no difference between the ancient parasang and the modern fursakh. Both are measures of time, and are equal to an hour , which, though differing with the animal, is usually about three miles . I am writing some notes on Xenophon — perhaps for my friend Gay, of Charlestown ; he is getting out an edition of the Anabasis.” In a note which accompanied the manuscript, and which was dated at Mosul, Aug. 14th, 1854, he says : “ While I was getting up from my attack of fever and ague last 340 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. winter, I amused myself with running through the Anaba- sis of our favorite Xenophon. You see I have taken the liberty to send you some notes on that part of the book referring to this section. I place the MS. at your dispo- sal, only wishing it were more worthy of the attention of a professor of Greek. I do not feel sure that it is worth publication in full, but if it will benefit any one, you will, perhaps, be able to place it within his reach. Pray, at least, allow it to be a feeble expression of my personal regard, and an apology for a brief reply to your last letter. If my missionary duties allowed of my perusing with care the Cyropa 3 dia, I might find some passages, perhaps, easily illuminated ; but it is only an occasional moment that can be spared for such a diversion.” In his journey over that oldest portion of the old world, Dr. Lobdell could not but gather up facts and thoughts touching language and races, as well as geography and antiquities, which were worthy of preservation. These, for the most part, he transmitted to the American Orien- tal Society, of which he was chosen a corresponding mem- ber in May, 1854 ; and the results of his observations have appeared from time to time in the columns of the Society’s published journal. Besides these more solid matters, he sent to the Society some curiosities in literature ;* also coins, cylinders, and other relics of antiquity, which he had collected. Of the estimation in which his correspondence was held, and the hopes that were excited of valuable contributions in future, the following extracts of letters from Professors Salisbury and Whitney will furnish the best evidence. Writing to Dr. Lobdeli’s father soon after the death of his son, Prof. Salisbury says : “ In reply to yours of the 2d, I send you now, three manuscript let- ters of the late Dr. Lobdell, and a copy of one in print, *Among the rest, a specimen of Moslem genealogy, in which are enrolled several sons of Adam not found in the Bible ; a list of pashas of Mosul for two centuries past ; a pilgrim’s prayer at Nahum’s tomb, in Hebrew, &c. CONTRIBUTIONS TO TIIE ORIENTAL SOCIETY. 341 ) included in volume 4, No. 2, of the Journal of the Ameri- can Oriental Society. There are other and later letters from your much lamented son in my hands ; but which I retain, having need of them, in order to make extracts from them for the next number of the Journal. I shall be happy to send these, also, to you hereafter “ The Journal of Observations on a tour in Ivoordistan has been received, and will be published, in part, in a future number of our Journal. I can not now let the MS. go out of my hands. “ This opportunity must not pass without my express- ing to you the deep regret which I felt at the death of your son. An interesting correspondence with him, in behalf of the Oriental Society, had been established, which gave promise of being increasingly valuable ; and in my last letter to him, which he did not live to receive, I had authorized him to purchase for me some relics of antiquity, which I hoped would prove a valuable accession to our materials of knowledge. But he fell in the best cause, and his acquisitions and abilities are not lost — only trans- ferred to a higher sphere of action.” After giving a somewhat fuller account of Dr. Lobdell’s contributions, Prof. Whitney, who writes in 1857, says: “ The character of the loss sustained by the Society, and by the learned world, by the death of Dr. Lobdell, is not at all to be measured by what he had done, but by what there was reason to expect that he would do. And cer- tainly he gave promise of very great efficiency and useful- ness in the cause of science as well as missions. The Society has hardly had a correspondent among our mis- sionaries, who commenced so heartily and actively, and from whom it had more reason to expect a series of valu- able communications. His interest in behalf of knowl- edge, his zeal and energy in promoting it, were quite un- usual. With so much ability and devotedness, he could not have failed, had his life been spared, to accomplish very 29* 342 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. much in every department of his work ; and it was and is a matter of deep and sincere regret to the Society, for itself and for the world, that he was cut off almost at the commencement of a career which promised to be so useful and honorable.” But there was no study to Dr. Lobdell like the study of theology ; no profession or practice like the preaching of the gospel. “ Your theological instrucions,” he writes to Mr. Stoddard, “ must be profitable as well to yourself as to your pupils. It is above all sciences — this theology. I can hardly content myself with my knife and pills, when such a theme for thought and discourse is present as God. ... I am sure, I never should have practiced medi- cine in America. The Bible — God — what subjects for study! Well, the great truths of the Word can be our contemplation in eternity. Our labor is here, our rest hereafter. Here we get glimpses of the truth ; in heaven we shall see its full-orbed glory.” CHAPTER X Y 1 1 . Extracts from Journal — Contributions by Missionaries to the Advancement of Learning — Dr. Judson — Dr. Perkins — Health Station at Deira — Dr. Lobdell’s Journey thither — Establishment of a Seminary at Mosul — The Education Question — Disturbed State of the Country — Yezdinshir Bey — Siege of Jezireh — Protestant Cemetery — Demolition of the Wall at the Insti- gation of the Papists — Action of the Board on Slavery — Combination to drive away the Missionaries — Archbishop Behnam — Scarlet Fever — Pota- toes in Mosul — Letter written at Nimrood — Sculptures, Coins, and other Relics of Antiquity —The Nineveh Gallery at Amherst — Bible Illustrations. As we have now come to the last volume of Dr. Lob- dell’s journal, the reader will perhaps be pleased to see some more consecutive extracts from its pages. It is only a small portion of each day’s record, that can be copied, and the selections of course can have but little connection, except that they follow each other in the order of time. The passages are chosen partly with reference to the intrinsic value of the matter contained in them, and partly as peculiarly characteristic of the sentiments and spirit of the writer. These, together with portions of letters writ- ten within the same period, will bring our narrative down to the time of Dr. Lobdell’s journey to Baghdad and Bab- ylon, which shortly preceded his death. “Monday, Aug. 21st, 1854. Began to write out the notes of my tour to Tabreez, made more than a year ago ! A crowd of Moslems in. We discussed the advantages and disadvantages of freedom in religion. They said, 4 We are bound by the Koran to kill a false disciple; free- dom is impossible to us. Let every one remain in the sect God put him in.’ They complained that we seemed to be trying to make Christians of Moslems — a thing impossible. Then why their fear ? 344 MEMOIK OF LOBDELL. “ 22d. Tues. Out visiting patients till the heat was too great for my weak head. What suffering the sick here endure for want of care ! “ 23d. Wrote E. E. Bliss with our circular on slavery to get signatures of Armenian and Jewish missions. Also a note of condolence to Mr. Nutting of Aintab. Messrs. Oakley (the traveler) and Boutcher (who sketches for Mr. Loftus) spent most of the afternoon with me. Discussed Arabic, antiques, habits of people, state of Nestorians, extent of Nineveh, &c. New sculptures turning up at Koyunjik. A lion hunt in boats ! “ 26th. Spent most of the forenoon discussing the ques- tion of the credibility of the gospels with a lot of Jews. They saw, they were unable to demonstrate the credibility of Moses, any clearer than I could that of Christ. Their only mode of proof was by quoting from the Hebrew Scriptures, not dreaming that any body could question their authenticity. Credulity is here what skepticism is in Germany. The true spirit of religion is lost. When shall it be restored ? “28th. Wrote Tribune touching matters on the Per- sian and Turkish frontier. Drew a map of my route to Akra, which is northeast by east from Mosul, and dis- tant fifty-eight miles. “ 29th. An Armenian apothecary called to-day with a lot of seals, cylinders, and coins, which he obtained at Kerkuk. Some were quite valuable. Some had Semitic characters on them, if Layard is right in calling those on page 606 of his Nineveh and Babylon such. If I were authorized to give a good price for these antiques, I could procure a better set than has been published by Layard. Rare coins — gold, silver, and copper — are often brought me; but I am unable to buy them. They thus go to Paris or London.* *Dr. Lobdell wrote to the Smithsonian Institution, the Boston Athenaeum, and several of the professors in American colleges, endeavoring to awaken in them something of his own patriotic, as well as antiquarian zeal in this matter. A QUESTION OF CONSCIENCE. 345 “ Sept. 2d. Jews in, who declared that as we allow women to pray, we are opposed to the Old Testament. They never allow a woman to pray. She can go to the synagogue, and look at the Scriptures ; and that is all. “ 4th. A passage in Dr. Wayland’s Memoir of Dr. Judson,* giving it as the opinion of the latter, that a missionary should not allow himself to pursue science or literature, even as a recreation, troubles me much. Is it, or is it not a correct principle ? It seems to me extreme ground, but I must try to satisfy my mind on the ques- tion. I surely wish to act now for eternity, and to labor so as most to glorify God. I do not mean to let my writing interfere with my regular Arabic and Syriac studies, nor ever to prevent my talking to sinners when they call. What should I do ? Can I, or can I not serve God by writing an occasional article on the topics of interest in this quarter, with which I am better acquainted than anybody at a distance can be? May I be guided in this matter by the will of the Lord.” This question recurs frequently in Dr. LobdelFs journal and letters at this time. He had made it a subject of prayerful consideration before ; the memoir of Dr. Judson brought it up afresh. On a subsequent page of his jour- nal, he quotes the authority of Dr. Perkins on the other side.f He corresponded on the subject with Dr. Perkins and Mr. Stoddard ; also, with friends and acquaintances in the United States, in whose judgment he reposed con- fidence. He investigated the whole matter anew, with all the light he could derive from whatever source, and with the most sincere and earnest desire to know and do his duty, whatever it might be. And though he greatly admired Dr. Judson’s singleness of aim, and, under the influence of his example, resolved to write fewer letters, rea & fewer papers, and devote himself more assiduously to the perfect mastery of the Arabic, and to direct efforts * Yol. I. p. 162. t Residence in Persia, p. 395. 346 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. for the conversion of men ; still he never could see it to be his duty, or the duty of the missionary in general, to renounce such incidental services to the cause of literature and science, as, in the providence of God, fell in his way, and could be performed without interfering with other duties. “My present impression is,” he says in a letter to Mr. Stoddard, dated Sept. 25th, 1854, “that missionaries ought to do something for science and literature, and every missionary must himself be the judge of the extent to which he may rightfully proceed.” If Dr. Lobdell would or could have rested while he was writing some of his letters for the edification of his friends, or for the advancement of learning, it might perhaps have been better ; but if he had not allowed himself those recrea- tions, he would have been engaged in more exhausting missionary labors, and would have worn out or burned out sooner than he did. At the very time when he seems to others to have been only too earnest and incessant in his labors, only too like a self-consuming flame of fire in his zeal, he complains of himself in such terms as these: “I am too insensible of the danger of the people around me. They are, they are rushing on to destruction ! Oh ! let me lay aside all letter writing, all journalizing, all studies, all pajiers, that interfere with my faithfulness to their poor souls. May God help me to be more like Christ!” Missionaries, like other men, are differently constituted, both physically and mentally; and as no one man in other walks of life can be made a rule for all other men, so no one missionary should be set up as a standard for all other missionaries. The cause of missions would have lost much in public estimation at home, and in usefulness abroad, if it had not been served by a Carey and a Morri- son, as well as by a Judson ; by an Eli Smith, as well as by a Pliny Fiske ; by a Lobdell and a Stoddard, who could not refrain from studying the earth and the stars with the eyes which God had given them — as well as by EXTRACTS FROM DIARY. 347 the many good missionaries, whose circumstances and gifts and graces led them to spend all their time in the preach- ing of the gospel. “ Sept. 8th. I feel very unwell — have a severe pain in my right side — pleuritic. Oh, how frail is man! Who can tell what will be the result of even so slight an attack as mine. But I do not know by what imprudence I brought it on, and I am only desirous that the Lord’s will be done with me. I say this from my very soul. “12th. Mary still sick, and worse — a sort of croup. What a blow it would be if she should be taken from us. I love her exceedingly. It is, nevertheless, good to be afflicted ; and I hope I shall gradually rise above the world. I know I shall not without affliction. “19th. Hard night — intense pain. Mr. Williams down with fever, also. One of his children and both of mine ill. Shall I get away to Asheeta the first week of October ? This is a sad world ; but I never mean to be melancholy in it ; this would be sinful. “20th. The Chaldeans, Jacobites, and Nestorians begin the year twelve days later than the Syrians and Franks; that is, they use the old style. The Nestorians generally use the Alexandrian era in all their writings, political and ecclesiastical. The Jacobites use the Alexandrian era in ecclesiastical matters, though in civil affairs they date from the Christian era. The Armenians use the Moslem era ; and so do some of the other Christian sects in epis- tolary correspondence, notes of hand, &c. “21st. At our business meeting to-day, I was appointed to write a tract for Moslems. This will be a bold step ; but I can not see why I should not preach the whole gos- jDel to them, and ask liberty of no man. Great crowd at my dispensary. A Christian came in sick, having fled home from Arbeel, where he had been at work for the mutsellim, whose soldiers shook their daggers at him for presuming to demand his wages. 348 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. “22d. My mussulman teacher has great objection to interpreting the Koran as I read, as it is God’s word, and he fears he shall give a wrong meaning to it. Might not the ruthless Germans learn a lesson from the reverent Moslems ? Might not the southern slaveholder learn mercy from the Koran, which requires an enemy captured in battle and held as a slave, if he can read, has a book, as soon as he becomes a Moslem, to be set at liberty. “ Mr. Williams and I called on Daoud ibn Antone, the builder. W e found that not one in the family understood the meaning of a single sentence in the Lord’s Prayer, except 4 Our Father, who art in heaven,’ and 4 Give us this day our daily bread.’ The ecclesiastics never ex- pound the Liturgy, and the Lord’s Prayer is a part of it. W e tried to show them that they might as well nail their prayers to a windmill, as some of the heathen do, or fasten them behind a mule turning a gristmill, and then sit down and smoke, as to repeat words in prayer to which they attached no meaning. 44 28th. Long talks with Loftus and Boutcher at Brother Williams’s. All of us think Jebel Judi is the Ararat of Scripture ; so does Rawlinson.” The Prudential Committee having authorized the estab- lishment of a health station in the mountains, Dr. Lob- dell left Mosul for this purpose on the 3d of October. Mr. and Mrs. Marsh accompanied him as far as Sheikh Adi, to witness the annual festival of the Yezidees. Jere- miah went with him the whole distance. The first night they spent in the mud palace of the French consul at Khorsabad. The second night they reached Sheikh Adi, where they passed the next day (October 5th) taking daguerreotypes of Sheikh Kasir and Hussein Bey, and obtaining some more definite ideas of the religion of the Yezidees. On the 6th they went on their journey, nine hours, to the Koordish town of Spindaro. On the 7th, seven hours to the Kestorian village of Bebada. The 8th HEALTH STATION AT DEIRA. 340 (Sabbath) they spent at Sim, attending the church ser- vice, and having their attention particularly attracted to the Icera or mountain variety of Jonah’s gourd.* October 9th brought them to the mutsellim’s at Amadieh, and thence to the Nestorian village of Mar Odesho (Saint- Servant of Christ), or, as the Koords call it, Deira, which is two hours beyond Amadieh. Here Dr. Lobdell se- lected a site and made arrangements for building ; and, leaving Jeremiah to superintend the construction, returned by Amadieh, Aithootha, and Al-Kosh (where he paid a visit to the tomb of the Prophet Nahum) to Mosul, where he arrived on the 13th, having been that day thirteen hours and a half in the saddle. In a letter addressed to Dr. Pomroy after the arrange- ments were completed, he thus speaks of the mission premises, of the field for missionary labor, and of the reasons for its selection : “ Three rooms have been con- structed for a summer retreat. They are on ground leased by the agents of the saint, who, though in heaven, is supposed to be present a good part of the time in the church, which bears his name, and which also gives name to the village. To these, if the state of the country will permit, two of our families intend to resort next summer, not expecting, indeed, to find the place as cool as Asheeta, but yet much more comfortable than Mosul. It was not deemed prudent to attempt a residence at Asheeta.f The near proximity of Deira to Amadieh, where resides a friendly mutsellim, appointed by the pasha of Mosul, promised much greater security from the nomadic Koords. It is hoped, that, having gained a foothold at this point, it will not be difficult for missionaries to enter Tiyari and Tekhoma, the chief centers of the remaining population of the mountain Nestorians. The distance of Deira from * See p. 258. f Asheeta, the reader will remember, was Dr. Grant’s station. It is de- scribed at p. 258, of his memoir. 30 350 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Mosul is about seventy miles. It can be traveled by mules in four days. The village is small ; but all the in- habitants are anxious that we should go there, as the papists are making great exertions to bring them and their fellow-Nestorians under the iron heel of the Pope. “ W e hope, that as soon as may be, the Committee will designate two missionary families to that neighborhood. They might reside at Deira in summer, and at Amadieh in winter. There can be no doubt that self-denying labor here will accomplish great good for the mountain flock of the deluded patriarch. Shall these poor Christians stretch forth their hands to America in vain ? Too long has the church disregarded their entreaties, too long have the bones of Dr. Grant lain mouldering, since, from their rug- ged mountain tops, he eloquently pleaded their cause.” Simultaneously with the appropriation for a health station, the missionaries of Mosul were authorized to ojien a seminary for higher instruction. The strong ground taken by Dr. Judson and his biographer, against educa- tion, and in favor of preaching by missionaries, led Dr. Lobdell to a reconsideration of the whole subject. He discussed it with his colleagues ; he corresponded with his missionary brethren at other stations. He studied the report of the missions in India, and came to the conclu- sion, that there a great amount of money had been wasted by some societies, in mere secular education. The missionaries at Mosul, who had refused to administer medicines to the sick at the dispensary, except in connec- tion with the preaching of the way of salvation through faith in Christ, would not be very likely to fill into this error. They were unanimous in the opinion, that the funds of the mission could be properly employed in sus- taining such schools only, as could be brought under a decidedly Christian influence, by direct religious instruc- tion, and in which the Bible was a principal text-book. At the same time, they agreed in attaching no small THE EDUCATIONAL QUESTION. 351 importance to Christian schools and seminaries, as auxil- iaries in the work of Christian missions. In the language of Dr. Lobdell, they thought “schools and preaching better than preaching alone ; ” and they were convinced that “ the amount necessary to sustain a seminary (on a small scale at first), at Mosul, would do more service than if spread among the people directly.” Accordingly, Mr. Williams commenced the instruction of four young men, who were expected to form the nucleus of a seminary. This question, of education as related to missions, which has been discussed with so much zeal and ability, in the churches at home as well as among the missionaries, — like that to which we have before adverted, the duty of missionaries in regard to contributions to the advance- ment of learning, — does not admit of a universal answer. It is chiefly a question of time and circumstances. At the proper time and place, Christian schools and colleges are quite as essential to the progress and permanence of Christianity among Pagans, and Mohammedans, and deluded Christians, as in any part of Protestant Christen- dom. Of the time and place, the missionaries are, of course, the best judges. But that American Christians, who have just been awakened to a new conviction of the unspeakable value of Christian colleges to all their own social, political, and religious institutions, will renounce the principle of education in their missions, — that they, who have recently begun to open their purses freely for the support of Christian colleges and seminaries at home, will be unwilling to aid similar institutions abroad, when in the opinion of the missionaries, they are needed to perpetuate a learned and godly ministry, or an intelligent and pious laity, — to believe this were a reflection at once upon their consistency, their intelligence, and their liberality. The members of the Assyrian mission were greatly cheered, at this time, by the arrival of an English consul 352 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. at Diarbekr. But about the same time, they were under the reluctant necessity of closing the schools which they had opened at Nahrwan, Jezireh, and Azuk, because of the disturbed state of the country, which Dr. Lobdell thus describes, in his letter of Dec. 15th, to Dr. Pomroy : “ Yezdinshir Bey, a son of Mir Saif ed Din, the Abasside, from whom Beder Khan Bey, his brother, wrested the chieftainship of the Koords about Jezireh some years ago, is now in rebellion, and it is likely that his example will be followed by other chiefs, so that all the forces of Koor- distan may soon be organized against the Turks. Since the defeat of Beder Khan Bey by Omar Pasha, at Deir Guleh, and his banishment by the Porte to Candia, this nephew of his, Yezdinshir Bey, has been confined in Mosul, though not so confined as to prevent our receiving frequent visits from him. His character may be known from the remark he once made to me, that he would like to drink the blood of every Yezidee, Jew, and Christian, excepting his particular friends, such as myself.* A short time since, he received permission from the government to organize five thousand Koords, and conduct them to Anatolia. He arrived at Jezireh with a part of them, and there, under pretense of rectifying certain disorders, created by the Turkish governor and council, and Sulei- man Bey, the chief of the irregular cavalry, he commanded three members of the mejlis to be beaten to death with clubs, and then proclaimed himself governor. Osman Pasha, from Mardin, gathered a large force of mounted Arabs and Albanians, and a few hundred Kizam at Zakho, on the Assyrian Khabour, preparatory to an attack on the Koords. Before leaving Zakho, they were themselves attacked by Mansur Bey, a brother of the rebel, but suc- ceeded in putting the assailants to flight. After the usual Turkish delays, Osman Pasha put his forces in * See an illustration of the bigotry of this same Bey at p. 324. A TURKISH SIEGE. 353 motion, and undertook the siege of Jezireh. Mr. J. II. McCoan, a correspondent of the London Daily News, who had been robbed while traveling with the post from Mosul towards Constantinople,* and who was forced to flee to the Turkish camp, gave us, on his return here, a full account of the attack and defense. It is evident that the Koords were much the braver there, whatever they may have been in battle with the Russians at Kars and Bayazid. The Turks numbered about five thousand men. It is uncertain what number of Koords were in the town. All the wealthy Christians fled, as soon as they heard of the usurpation. The siege, as narrated to us by our Irish friend, was a ludicrous affair. He saw only eight men killed, after a fight of three days. The besiegers had four cannon, but they could not hit the town , and after many ineffectual attempts, were fain to give up the effort. Mr. McCoan persuaded them to let him try. Under his direction, they succeeded in killing a buffalo inside the city, and perhaps two men ! At length he was so success- ful as to strike with a ball a minaret, and one of the gates in the city wall ; and these were considered such marks of valor and skill, that the pasha yielded to his request, and furnished him a guard back to Mosul. The town, of course, was not taken. Attempts were made, in vain, to induce the rebel to return to Mosul, a safe conduct being promised him by the authorities. Osman Pasha’s forces, at length, scattered away, and he himself retreated to Mardin. “ Meanwhile, Yezdinshir Bey, leaving the command of Jezireh to his brother, is reported to have taken Sert, and to have given Zakho to the son of Said Bey, whom * This post went under an escort of a hundred soldiers. Mr. McCoan was robbed of all his MSS., pistols, and other baggage. The mail also was robbed. The missionaries, — or their friends, — lost many letters. Fortunately, through fear, a large amount of money and pearls, which were to have been sent by the pasha and the merchants to Constantinople, were detained for a safer oppor- tunity. 30 * 354 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Beder Khan Bey killed, as a rival, about the time of the first Nestorian massacre. Naamet Agha, chief of the Zibar Koords, who robbed Dr. Bacon’s party in 1851, and Alamet Effendi, of Amadieh, are marching their retainers, professedly, to the aid of the government ; but lest their aid should prove opposition, a detachment of the troops in Mosul are now on their way with cannon to the castle of Amadieh. We wait with much interest, though with no particular anxiety, to see whereunto these things will grow. “ The Arabs are plundering, ad libitum , between Bus- rah and Baghdad, coming up even to the gates of the latter city. Communication is irregular and insecure in all directions. Our last Constantinople post, due here Nov. 23d, was delayed twenty days. That due on the 7th of December will probably be delayed quite as long, as not only the Koords are troublesome, but also the Shammar Arabs. The last post for Constantinople was obliged to pass through the desert, instead of taking the usual route on the east bank of the Tigris. Even then it was forced to stop at Tel Afr, two days from Mosul, for fear of the Arabs. The preceding post, as I have already said, was robbed by the Koords. We have advised Ishak and Moshiel, the deacons sent to preach in Bootan by our Oroomiah brethren, to keep away from that region while the country is in so disturbed a state. “ The dignitaries who plotted a rebellion here last sum- mer have, for the most part, been banished to different parts of the empire. We pursue our work in the city without interruption from the political troubles that agitate the land ; and we have so much reason to hope that the desert and the mountains will before long be safe for travelers and missionaries, that we have no hesitation in urging you to send out men as fast as you can, for the field is white to the harvest. “ It becomes our duty to notice a late dastardly act insti- BURIAL GROUND WITHOUT THE WALLS. 355 gated by our papal enemies. It will be remembered that we were compelled to lay the remains of Mrs. Williams, last July, in the potter’s field, as she died outside of the city gates, and an ancient superstition forbids the dead to be brought into the town. A child of Mr. Marsh was soon after laid by her side. W e naturally began to feel the necessity of providing for ourselves a cemetery. As the American friends of those pioneer missionaries, who were buried in the Jacobite and Papal churches, had con- tributed a considerable sum to purchase and enclose a burial ground for the Protestants, we at first procured a piece of ground within the city walls, but it seemed best at length to dispose of this and obtain another outside of the city, that our dead might lie together. * Hence we procured, in the name of a papal Syrian, a plot eighty feet square, a mile beyond the city walls, and far beyond all the Moslem burial grounds, aiming to avoid every thing that could possibly offend the prejudices of any. A slight wall was erected around it, and about the first of Novem- ber we removed to it, and buried in the following order, near the western wall, the remains of Henry Marsh, Mrs. Williams, Mr. Hinsdale and child, Mrs. Laurie, Mrs. Mitchell, Dr. Grant. “ F or a whole month not a whisper of dissatisfaction was heard from any one, though our proceedings were all open, and the cemetery was in sight from the barracks and parade ground before the pasha’s palace. Our first oppo- sition came in the shape of a complaint from the pasha to the English consul, by whose advice we had built the wall and made the interments. We therefore wrote in reply to the pasha’s complaint, that, if in removing the * The native Protestants were averse to burying without the walls, like 1 Mohammedans and heathens. The missionaries preferred a cemetery outside. But they had yielded their preference. The papists, however, did every thing in their power to drive them from the burial ground which they purchased within the walls. And when, in the providence of God, their dead could not all be laid there, they gave it up, and went outside the city. 356 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. remains of our friends to the cemetery, we had violated any statute of the realm, (for being strangers we could not be supposed to be acquainted with the whole Turkish code), we desired the assistance of His Excellency so to represent our case to the Sublime Porte, that we might obtain, through the clemency of His Majesty the Sultan, license to retain the piece of ground which we had enclosed. We remarked that we are, like others, heirs of death, and that since His Majesty the Sultan had graciously given us per- mission to reside within his dominions, it followed, as a necessity, that we needed a place to bury our dead. “ The pasha having intimated his intention to refer the case to Constantinople, we caused the men who were delivering tombstones to suspend their labor. We were therefore greatly surjDrised to learn, soon after the last mail for Stamboul was closed, that the pasha had seized the innocent Syrian who j^rocured the field for us from a prominent member of the Council, imprisoned him, and declared the contract null, on the ground that the Sultan’s land can not be sold, though similar cases of sale are continually occurring throughout Turkey. The poor man was forced to receive back the price of the field, and give orders for the wall around it to be knocked down. The deed was done, and the stones at the graves were pulled up and scattered ! “ The report is circulating that we are about to be driven out of Mosul. Still we believe that our work was never before so prosperous as it is this day. So long as we can visit from house to house, enlarge our schools, and preach to an audience of eighty persons daily, we surely have no reason to murmur at the persecutions of those who know not what they do. “ I can not close my letter without alluding to the great joy we all felt on the receipt of your letter, informing us of the action of the Board at Hartford, on the momentous subject of slavery. We had many fears that the silence PERSECUTION. 357 of the Board on that subject would greatly injure its efficiency.” Every day developed new evidence of a continued and desperate elfort to crush the Protestant cause. At a council of the dignitaries of the Chaldean church, it was resolved to raise contributions for the express purpose of inducing the Protestants, by bribes and ]3romises, to return to their old communions. A document from the Pope was read in the papal churches requiring the faithful to pray for the success of their Christian Majesties against the Russians, for the speedy establishment of peace, and that the American missionaries may be expelled from Turkey. The rulers of all the Christian sects united in a renewed petition to the Porte to forbid the rating of Protestants, like other sects, at fifty piastres a house. The Jacobite, who built the house for the missionaries at Deira, before he was allowed to take a wife, was obliged to give bonds in the sum of five thousand piastres, that he would not turn Protestant. And when Jeremiah, as wakeel or head of the Protestant community, went to the pasha, to enroll, as usual, the names of certain persons who were desirous of becoming Protestants, instead of receiving him respect- fully as aforetime, the pasha began to heap insults upon him, charging him with being the cause of continual com- plaints from all the Christian sects, a brawler and unclean ; and he then ordered him never to come into his presence again, under penalty of being banished from Mosul. The missionaries, of course, took suitable measures to secure their rights by representing their grievances at Constanti- nople. But so far from being alarmed or disheartened, they thanked God and took courage, seeing in this com- bined opposition a proof that the leaven of the gospel was working powerfully, and fully believing that it would be overruled for good. And, in the face of opposition and prohibition, they did, in fact, enjoy more access to the people and even to the ecclesiastics, than they had ever had before. 358 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Having received from the archbishop of the Jacobites a semi-official intimation that he desired to contrive some “ plan of union,” they offered to cooperate with him in reforming the abuses of his church, provided he would discontinue the use of a dead language (Syriac) in the church service, preach the pure gospel, cease to counte- nance prayers for the dead, prayers to saints and to the Virgin, auricular confession, the. pretense of the real pres- ence in the Eucharist, and, in general, all practices con- trary to the W ord of God. They offered to open two schools for the Jacobites, on condition that only Arabic should be taught in them, that the Scriptures should be the basis of all the religious instruction given, that the text-books of the mission should be used, that they should have a voice in the selection of teachers, and have so much personal connection with the schools as to be sure that the conditions were complied with. These terms were considered too hard by the archbishop, and, as the mission had no others to offer, the negotiation ceased. At the festival of Mar Elias, at an old convent a short distance from the city, Dr. Lobdell, being present, was obliged to take the highest seat at the services, and to dine with the priests ; and he was invited to discuss reli- gious topics, as he would not have been two years before. The scarlet fever raging very violently at Mosul in the autumn of 1854, — a new disease there, and exciting for that reason no small alarm — gave the Doctor unusual access to all sects and all classes of the people. Accom- panied often by one of his missionary brethren, he went from house to house, and found an open door for the preaching of the truth as well as the administering of medicines. In the last chapter, we saw Dr. Lobdell longing w T ith all a boy’s fondness, and expressing his desire with all a boy’s frankness, for those luxuries of his own New England — ice cream and maple sugar. We now find him rejoicing LETTER FROM NIMROOD. 350 over the arrival of an article that smacked scarcely less of America — several mule-loads of potatoes, from Oroomiah ; and ordering another cargo from the same source for his friend Loft us at Koyunjik. Passing over the major part, both of the journal and letters of this period, in which there is the usual variety amid uniformity — the same routine of daily preaching and teaching at the dispensary, in the study and from house to house, with an endless diversity in the number, character, and condition of the bodily and spiritual patients, and an occasional sprinkling of talks with English anti- quarians, rides to Koyunjik, study of the geology of the country, * examination and purchase of coins, &c., &c. — a letter to his brother takes us to, or rather finds us at Nimrood, where the letter was written December 29th, 1854 : “ While I am waiting here for my men to uncover the slabs, which I am preparing to send to America, I pro- pose to tell you something about my operations. Having written so far with my lead pencil, I find it best to make use of some ink discovered by the servant of Mr. Loftus in the hut, where I write — the same described so elo- quently by Mr. Layard in his first work. It has lately been floored with bricks from the palace of the son of Sardana- palus, and its walls have received a coating of ground gypsum, which, you know, is the stone of the Nineveh sculptures — but few of them are of limestone or sand- stone — and with which this part of the valley of the Tigris is bedded. The roof of the establishment is newly cov- ered with reeds and mud ; a neat firejolace offers facilities for the consumption of brush from the banks of the Great Zab, which is about two hours distant by gallop; the rough door, with wooden hinges and a gigantic bolt, allows * While riding with Capt. Loftus, Dr. Lobdell made the first discovery of the quarries from which the limestone blocks at Nimrood were taken. The lime- stone underlies the gypsum, which is the prevailing formation, and which is the material of the sculptured slabs. 860 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. the free circulation of air; a window frame is covered with copies of Galignani’s Messenger; and heavy benches stand on the sides of the room, answering the double purpose of seats and beds. My saddle-bags, in which I brought my bedding and cloak, with my saddle and sack of tin dishes and eatables ; a long spear, four plank chairs, a few" bricks with arrow-headed letters on the sides and ends, and an antique bureau, covered v r ith terra-cotta vases and copper Assyrian ornaments, complete the furniture of the room. “An adjoining room is nearly filled with antiques — glass, vases of clay, bricks, pieces of marble, and tablets — while great slabs, carved with priestly or divine forms, and glorified kings and eunuchs, stand against the outer walls of the building. The village of Nimrood lies all about it — a dirty, wretched representation of the old Nimrood, or the Larissa, which Xenophon so well describes in his record of the retreat from Cuanaxa. The pyramid he speaks of, occupies the northwest angle of the great mound, where Layard uncovered so many interesting me- morials. This is my sixth visit to these ruins, which, you may remember, are on the eastern side of the Tigris, a mile from the river, and about twenty miles, or 4 six para - sangs ,’ from Mosul. If Nebbi Yunus represents Mespila, as I believe it does, Xenophon’s measurement of the dis- tance from Larissa was exact. “ But you will ask me why and how I got here so late in December. Well, you should know that now the whole country is becoming green ; that not a flake of snow falls here except in the extremest cold weather ; that the farm- ers are now plowing with their wooden plows, drawn by asses, steers, or steers and asses / and that I am engaged in superintending the sawing, packing, marking, and for- warding of forty-seven boxes of sculptures — not forty- seven slabs, but twelve, besides a dozen bricks. Six of the slabs are for Dr. Wright, of Oroomiah. The other six NINEVEH GALLERY AT AMHERST. 361 are the property of us missionaries at Mosul — two each. Those of Dr. Wright will go to Dartmouth College and the University of Virginia, I expect, and the others will be kept at Mosul, till we get orders for them from America. I believe Dr. Hitchcock requested me to send more to Amherst ; but I think the request was made before he received the slabs I sent ; and hence I do not feel author- ized, exactly, to send them. I intend, however, to send to Amherst, by the caravan that takes Dr. Wright’s slabs to the Mediterranean, a box of geological sj^ecimens and articles of oriental apparel. I have quite a collection of coins which dervishes brought me, of which I shall some time send a lot to Amherst, and the rest to the Boston Athenasum, the Smithsonian Institution, Professor Salis- bury, or some body else ! “ My hands are full — perhaps too full — of missionary labor. My antiquarian performances are simply recrea- tion. I would rather talk to such a gathering as I have daily in my study, than to explore antiquities, write a great book, or preach twice a week to a thousand wealthy and fashionable hearers in New York city. This is labor- ing for eternity. Oh that it may not be in vain ! This life seems more than ever a vapor — a flower — a breath.” The successive instalments of sculptures, and the greater part of the coins, cylinders, and bricks, which Dr. Lobdell collected, have reached Amherst, and under the superin- tendence of Dr. Hitchcock — who has manifested scarcely less interest in these ^footprints of former generations of men than in the ichnolites of the pre-adamite earth in his cabinet, — and through the liberality of several friends of the college, and especially of Enos Dickinson, Esq., of South Amherst, they have found a fit resting place in the Nineveh Gallery of Amherst College. This room, con- structed after the model of some of the smaller rooms in 31 362 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. the exhumed Assyrian palaces* — is sixteen feet long, twelve feet wide, lighted from the roof, paved with imita- tions of Assyrian bricks, paneled to the height of seven or eight feet with slabs from Nimrood, the remainder of the walls covered with copies in stucco of some of the most remarkable of the kings and gods sketched in La- yard’s works, (among the rest the representation of Sen- nacherib at the siege of Lachish.) There are, besides, two or three horizontal cases filled with various relics of As- syrian and Babylonian antiquity. The contents of this Museum are classified and described as follows by Mr. Charles Hitchcock, who has interested himself not a little in the arrangement and exhibition, especially of the coins.f I. Sculptures. Of these, No. 1 is one of the oldest found in the ruins. It is the Nisroch of Scripture, (2d Kings, 19:37; Isa. 37:38;) the god of Sennacherib and the Assyrian kings — a small and richly dressed human figure with wings and the head of an eagle, from which, in the Aramaean languages, it derives its name. The whole of the sacred tree is on this specimen. No. 2 is a two-horned divinity. The figure is seven and a half feet high, with enormous wings upon his shoulders, a basket in his right hand, and in his extended left hand, a cone somewhat like a pineapple. Half of the sacred tree is upon each side of the figure, forming a border. Across the entire breadth of this slab (and also upon the others) and forming a strip eighteen inches wide, the surface is covered with an inscription in cuneiform char- acters. No. 3 is a three-horned divinity, which differs from the preceding only in the number of horns. These are quite short and might easily be mistaken for fillets. *The rooms, even in the most magnificent palaces, are narrow — generally not wider than the Nineveh Gallery at Amherst. t For a very neat and accurate catalogue of the coins, the Museum is indebted to the scholarly taste and habits of Prof. Edward Tuckerman, professor of history in the college. CONTENTS OF TIIE GALLERY. 363 No. 4 represents king Sardanapalus, having a bow in one hand and a censer in the other, as if offering incense upon his return from Avar. Dr. Lobdell humorously describes this slab as the first king ever sent to the United States. No. 5 is a filleted divinity. The general appearance of this sculpture corresponds Avith that of the horned divini- ties, except that his head is covered with fillets, the left hand holds a branch of the sacred tree, and the right hand is lifted up as if in the act of speaking or commanding. No. 6 is Nisroch — the same as No. 1. II. Bricks. There are six large bricks, varying in length from tweRe to eighteen inches, from the palace of Sar- danapalus at Nimrood and from Babylon. III. Antiques. These consist of a large number of beau- tiful gems (chalcedony and chameleon) from Mecca and Greece ; Babylonian, Sassanian, and Assyrian cylinders (chiefly serpentine, chalcedony, and chameleon ;) Sassa- nian, early Persian, later Persian, Greek, IlebreAV, and Cufic seals ; alabaster fragments of jars ; fragments of a winged bull, one of which contains a fossil shell, the Pte- roceras ; and numerous inscriptions from Babylon, Avith very many other miscellaneous articles. IY. Modern miscellaneous articles. Of these there are more than a hundred, consisting of bracelets, shoes, lamps, spoons, pipes, escritoires, &c., all of which are noAV in use in Mesopotamia. V. Coins. There are fifteen Greek silver coins, tAvelve of Avliich (nine tetraclrachms and three drachms) Avere coined by Alexander the Great ; thirty-one silver drachms of the Seleucidae ; thirteen Greek copper coins ; eighteen silver coins of the Arsacidas ; three of the Sassanidae, the succes- sors of the Arsacidae in Persia ; sixty-three Roman silver coins, from Vespasian to Alexander Se\ T erus; forty-eight Roman copper coins ; forty-nine copper coins of the East- ern Empire ; eight silver, and two hundred and sixty 364 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. copper Cufic coins of the olcl Mohammedan princes; fifteen medallions of brass, having the figures of saints ; and two old seal rings : making in all five hundred and twenty-five. Besides these contributions for the Nineveh Gallery, Dr. Lobdell sent two or three hundred specimens for the geological cabinet, illustrating the tertiary deposits around Mosul, and the other formations in Mesopotamia and the Koordish mountains. The name of Dr. Lobdell is inscribed, as well it may be, in a conspicuous place in this Museum ; and under it might well have been placed the inscription which accom- panies the name of Sir Christopher Wren in St. Paul’s Church in London : “ Si vis monumentum, circumspice.” Whoever visits the Nineveh Gallery at Amherst, sees all about him a monument at once of Dr. Lobdell’s filial affection for his alma mater, and of his zeal and industry in the collection and study of antiquities. Nor was it merely as an antiquarian and a scholar, that he felt an interest in the colossal and majestic forms which guarded the entrances and lined the halls of those old Assyrian palaces. He looked on them also with the eye of a Christian philosopher and a student of the Bible. He beheld them, not with the idolatrous veneration of the ancient Assyrians, nor yet with the iconoclastic fanaticism of the modern Mohammedans, but with the religious awe, mingled with compassion, which an enlightened and candid mind can scarcely refrain from feeling in the pres- ence of objects that have once stirred the deepest and most sacred emotions of the human heart, even though it be a heart that has lost the knowledge of the true God. He saw in them the symbols by which one of the oldest and greatest nations of the earth represented their ideas of religion, of worship, and of God. They reminded him, as they must remind any one who has seen them, or only copies of them, and who is, at the same time, an intelligent and thoughtful reader of the Scriptures, of the cherubim INTERPRETATION OF THE WINGED FIGURES. 365 that spread their wings over the mercy seat, of the sera- phim of Isaiah, of the living creatures of Ezekiel, and of the beasts, as the word is unhappily translated in our version of the Apocalypse, in which, as in the winged and eagle-headed men, and the winged and human-headed lions and bulls of the Assyrian monuments, all that is swiftest, and strongest, and wisest, and greatest, and best in the creation, is combined to form some imperfect expres- sion of the attributes and agency of the Creator, and which, like all the other types and shadows of the Old Testament, and the “ unconscious prophecies ” of Christianity, which are not wanting in the heathen world, have all been ful- filled and superseded by the mystery of the Incarnation. When asked to give his interpretation of those majestic forms, he replied that he did not feel competent to give any authoritative exposition of them ; but if any one would explain the meaning of the cherubim and the living crea- tures, he would then explain the signification of the winged, horned, and multiform figures of Assyrian sculpture. He was not sure but the figures with the basket and the cone or the uplifted hand, in the attitude of prayer, or as if mak- ing an offering, (which have commonly been supposed to be deities,) were worshipers. The human-headed and winged lions and bulls undoubtedly represented gods. “ The sacred vine would seem to symbolize the producing power in nature, and the winged figures in the act of pre- senting the cone may represent the devotion of the priest- hood and instrumentally that of the nation to this power, which is only another way of rendering homage to the Godhead. And perhaps the figures generally symbolize the chief ruling powers, by which God carries on the operations of his natural and providential government.” Mesopotamia and Egypt are the two fountains of bibli- cal history. The patriarchs went out from the former; Moses and the people under him went out from the latter ; and the prophets had much to do with both. A full 31 * 366 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. understanding and appreciation of the Old Testament, without an acquaintance with the geography and history of these countries, is impossible. How many volumes of idle whims and fanciful conjectures in the interpretation of prophecy, especially of Ezekiel, Daniel, and the Reve- lation, might have been spared, if commentators had only been able to see these books in the light of the Assyrian and Egyptian monuments. Reading the Scriptures in this light, which the providence of God has so remarkably shed upon them in our day, we not only see perpetual demonstrations of their genuineness and authenticity, but in every book we behold with wonder and delight, how it is at once the book of man and the book of God — how the body is of the earth, but the spirit is from heaven — how the Bible has taken a form and coloring from the countries where the several books were written, and yet it has never in any instance borrowed the errors or imbibed the spirit of the idolatrous nations of antiquity. CHAPTER XVIII. Tour to Baghdad and Babylon — Voyage down the Tigris — Kalah Sherghat — Tekrit — Birth place of Saladin — Samarah — A gorgeous Sunset — Palms and Pomegranates — Post — Baghdad — Col. Rawlinson — The Residency — Cli- mate — English Hospitality — Mr. Bruhl — Prof. Petermann — M. Fresnel — The Belgian Colonel — Aleppo Button — Circular Boats — Ride to Babylon — Canals and Khans — The Count — The Tasha — Babel — Birs Ximrood — Cof- fins and Tombs — Theory of Babylon — Pilgrimage to Kazmain — Jewish Hospital — Visit to the Pasha — Arrival of Mr. Murray — The Steamer — Sun- day Levee — Interview with the Ambassador — Return by post to Mosul. The Nestorian mission was brought by the war into circumstances of trial and danger. Its success had already awakened, in some measure, the fanaticism of the Mos- lems and the jealousy of the Persian government. And now Russian influence was arrayed against it, with all its hostility to liberty and evangelical Christianity, inflamed by hatred to England and to those who enjoyed English sympathy and protection. Severe restrictions were accord- ingly laid upon the mission, especially in the educational department, which seems to have been the object of especial dislike and dread ; and these restrictions, it was feared, might be only the commencement of aggressive measures, which would end, perhaps, in the destruction of the schools and the mission itself. Under these circumstances, the missionaries, at the sug- gestion of Mr. Stevens, late English consul at Tabreez, requested Dr. Lobdell, whose recent visit to Oroomiah made him perfectly acquainted with the state of the mis- sion, to go to Baghdad and lay their case before the new English ambassador to Persia, Mr. Murray, who was ex- pected to be there, on his way from Alexandria to Tehran about the tenth of January. As soon, therefore, as a raft 368 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. could be prepared, the Doctor set out for Baghdad, fur- nished with letters of introduction, and charged with commissions from Mr. Loftus at Koyunjik, and from the French consul at Mosul, to the French and English func- tionaries and other friends of theirs in the city of the caliphs. Three boxes of wine, two sacks of potatoes, and a barrel of pickles, formed part of the cargo thus con- signed to his care. His company consisted of “ four Arab guards, dirty, ragged, and courageous , carrying antique muskets and swords ; two oarsmen, from Tekrit ; Kaaman, the cook; Jeremiah, the preacher and interpreter; and a Turk, late from the Crimea, who displayed a Russian watch, guns, and other trophies taken at the battle of Alma.” It was about noon on the tenth of January, 1855, when the raft floated from its moorings opposite Mosul. The crowd upon the shore, the palace and barracks of the pasha, the mound of Koyunjik, and the spires and gaudy new minaret of Jonah’s tomb, soon faded from the view. The Doctor’s attention was then divided for a time between Galignani, the Independent, and the Journal de Constan- tinople on deck, and flocks of black ducks, gray herons, and white pelicans, upon the banks of the river. At Hamman Ali, the tall minaret of Mosul vanished out of sight, and near sunset he passed the gentle rapids of Nim- rood without a sacrifice to the river deity, though not without a prayer to God that he would guide the frail bark safely to its destination, and keep in perfect peace the minds of the loved ones left behind. “At dark,” (we quote from a journal of the tour, which he sent home to his family friends, and which we have only to abridge for the materials of this chapter,) “the jackals danced along the western bank, making a curious noise, half that of the human voice and half that of a hyena, reminding one of the satyrs, of whom the school- boy reads in Christendom. At times, I could scarcely believe the voices were not those of men. Our Arabs VOYAGE DOWN TIIE TIGRIS. 369 sung some guttural sonnets, and I thought of the reeds on which Virgil’s bucolic heroes piped their pastoral lays; the Turk described the charge of the English on the heights of Alma; the rowers plied their clumsy oars, now and then warming their hard hands and bare legs by the charcoal fire ; domesticated Arabs hailed us from the shore; and two hours below Mmrood, we came to the Great Zab, which pours its yellow tide into the arrowy Tigris. Tak- ing leave of the clear-shining stars, I now buried myself for the frosty night under quilts and coats, till midnight, when I was awakened by the cry of ‘ Kalah Sherghat ! 5 I stuck my head out of the felt-covered doorway, and took a look at the giant mound, which rises grandly on the western bank, and was soon after dreaming in my bed of the antiquities which fancy pictured in its buried cham- bers. Layard did not half explore the mound, and, I doubt not, it is yet to yield up treasures as precious as those of Khorsabad. “11th. The raft moved quietly on all night, and this morning, as 1 awoke, I was greeted by hoar-frost and a leopard ! The former lasted some hours ; the latter soon disappeared in the brush that lined the river’s bank. A rough range of rocks stretched out into the river, but the stream was high, and we passed it without difficulty. Water fowl sat stupid on the shore as we passed an old castle on the right bank — the refuge of human robbers and of vultures. We were scon at the Lesser Zab, down which, from the region of Kerkuk, a raft of wood was floating. A vast number of camels now appeared upon the left, biting the shrubs and grass, and their otvners tried to induce us to come ashore and let them ask us questions ! As we declined, they cried out that we were afraid of them — which was, indeed, the fact. They threw off their loose cloaks, called us cowards, and shook their swords and canes in the air. ‘Time and tide wait for no man ; ’ neither did our raft wait for them. 370 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. “ The banks were tertiary ; here and there grew a bush ; impure limestone lay above gypsum, though but for a short distance. I passed the day reading the sensible work of the envoy, whom I was on my way to visit — ‘Travels in North America.’ I was glad to find him so well pleased with Americans, and augured a favorable reception for myself. A few black tents appeared upon our left in the afternoon, but no one tried to molest us. ‘Allah’ was on the lips of my Arabs, whenever they spoke; but they admitted they never prayed in winter — it was too cold ! ‘ God is merciful, and pities us ’ — this was their creed ; and they cared little for the words, ‘ Moham- med is his prophet.’ “We reached Tekrit at midnight. Here we changed our oarsmen, who of course expected a buckshish in addition to their wages. Every raft passing this place must pay a tax called haj\ a sort of black-mail , recognized by govern- ment, but additional to the tax on merchandise at the custom-house above, from which it starts. This Tekrit is famous as the birth place of Saladin, and as being almost the only town between Mosul and Baghdad, on the west- ern bank of the Tigris. As we arrived, guns were fired by our guard, though one musket was so out of repair that it was necessary to put a rope around the trigger, which was then pulled by two men, before it would go off! The guns brought out the governor and his wife, who said she had just laid her child from her bosom on the mat, and could only say to us in Arabic , ‘ un bon voyage,’ and then returned to her mud hovel. The haj is the chief source of income to this now wretched place ; the men are mostly raftsmen. Were they not allowed this tax, they would plunder every raft that comes down the river. “ 12th. To-day it grows warmer; we are fast drawing near to the orange and date groves. Below Tekrit, the banks show numerous remains of antiquity. Four hours VOYAGE DOWN TIIE TIGRIS. 371 below, on the left bank, is Dor, by some thought to stand in the plain of Dura. Soon appears on the same bank the tower of Samarah , looking exactly like the pictures of Babel in children’s picture-books — a spiral column, tapering towards the summit — how like that fabled tower! A mosk, with its minarets, and several hundred old houses, are near it. Arabs now occupy the site of the capital of Mutassem Billah, the Abbasside caliph, of whom such wonderful stories are told by the old Arabic writers. The Shiites, (Mohammedans of Persia,) make pilgrimages to this mosk, where are buried some of the last Imams. Six rafts, loaded with brush and plaster of Paris, (ground gypsum,) from Mosul, lay near the town, on their way to Baghdad. “ Ducks and pelicans abound. Our Turkish warrior fired at a fine flock of the latter ; but he was less successful, he said, in shooting birds than in shooting Russians! We had a gorgeous sunset — the first I have seen in Assyria. It quite carried me back to Amherst.' At Oroomiah, I saw a splendid sky, but seldom was the western horizon hung with such gold-fringed clouds as used to hang over Northampton. “ See ! here are two swimmers, paddling along on skins ; one has a wife on his back, the other a child! Soon we come to Belled , around which appear immense groves of palms. What feathery tops! How curiously hangs the fruit in its season, which is October. The wind rises against us ; the current is less rapid ; slowly we go. “ 13th. We are near Sindiyeh. At ten a. m. at IToio- eish, where the palms are thick, and pomegranate bushes fill the spaces beneath their fringed tops. The trunks of the palms are made to grow very long by trimming ; they are often a hundred feet high, without a branch. “ The wind is so high, I must leave the raft. The crew are calling on God and the Prophet for protection. “ I took a post-horse at Jedideh , on the left bank, and, 372 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. with my Turkish friend, galloped for several hours over a level tract of fertile but uncultivated land, to Baghdad, arriving before sunset within its gates, and at the residency of the East India Company’s agent, the famous Col. Raw- linson — three days and a few hours from Mosul. This was a very quick passage, and was the result of moving night and day with a high flood. “ Col. Rawlinson had just broken his left clavicle by a fall from his horse, while hunting a wild boar ; but though much bruised, he was not seriously injured. Boars, hyenas, jackals, wolves, and a few lions, are found about here. Col. Rawlinson has a lion of very great size chained on his premises, and it would certainly be an easy matter for him to chew a man to shreds. He was taken near Ctesi- phon, a few hours below Baghdad, when young; and though maneless, as the lions in these parts are, he will be sent to England, whither Col. R. expects to go in the spring.” Dr. Lobdell describes the residency as a splendid build- ing for that part of the Eastern world, in the richest Per- sian style, with two large courts, the inner of which is the harem . The chief reception room, which is of glass “above and on all sides,” commands a fine view of the Tigris and the palms beyond. The dining room is richly furnished, and looks out on a beautiful garden of oranges and lemons, and tall date-trees. The drawing room contains some fine engravings, silvered globes, side-tables of a black wood from India, some curious books on antiquities, and a very fine restoration in black marble of the first obelisk discov- ered at Nimrood, covered with a fac-simile of the inscrip- tions and figures, an interpretation of which was published by Col. Rawlinson. The ceiling of all the rooms is orna- mented with curiously arranged pieces of glass. Paint can not keep the wood from warping and cracking. The serdab is nearly under ground, but is less neat than some of the serdabs in Mosul, as it is made of brick instead of BAGHDAD. 373 slabs of gypsum. “ Gypsum is expensive here, as it is brought from Mosul. It is the only stone seen here. The plain for scores of miles does not reveal a single rock or pebble. From the meteorological journal kept for several years by Dr. Ilyslop, the surgeon of the residency, I learn that although the heat at Baghdad lasts some two months longer than it does at Mosul, it seldom pushes the mercury above 115°, which is about the maximum there. The siroccos, however, are terrible here in the autumn. The houses are all built of brick. The population is about sixty thousand. It was formerly much greater. Plague, cholera, and fever, have brought the number low. The town lies chiefly on the eastern bank of the Tigris, though the old town was on the right bank, where a wall still, in part, surrounds the most miserable portion of the city. These two parts are connected by a bridge of boats.” On Saturday, Jan. 13th, the day of his arrival at Bagh- dad, Dr. Lobdell dined at Col. Rawlinson’s with Dr. Ilyslop, Mr. Oakley, “ a rich young gentleman,” and Mr. Seecroft, his traveling tutor, Mr. Lynch, the friend of Mr. Loftus, to whom the potatoes from beyond the Koordish moun- tains were consigned, Mr. Hector, another Baghdad mer- chant, and two or three clerks of the residency. lie was somewhat annoyed at being introduced, on the authority of his letter from Mr. Loftus, as “ the Rev. Dr. Lobdell,” which grave and reverend cognomen he thought was little in harmony with his short beard and youthful appearance. On the part of the company, every thing was agreeable except the brandy, port and sherry, at the table, and the brandy punch and billiards after dinner, which led him “to thank God that he lived for a higher object than these kind-hearted Englishmen appeared to live for.” He was able to contribute at least one welcome element to the entertainment of the company. “ The circulars of Dr. Dwight, our missionary brother at Stamboul, in respect to 32 374 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. the war, were welcomed, as I was in advance of the mail, though the post left Mosul before I did .” At half-past ten, on Sunday, the 14th, the English ser- vice was read in the drawing room ; after which Dr. Lob- dell was as much disturbed by the Sabbath-breaking of his English friends as he had been by their drinking habits the day before. He found a friend and a brother in Mr. Briihl, a con- verted German Jew, who was laboring for the benefit of his brethren under the direction of the London Jews’ Society. At the house of Mr. Briihl, he formed the acquaintance of Prof. Petermann, of the University of Berlin, and an intimate friend of the learned and excellent ISTeander, of whom, while applying in his behalf for any historical, Nestorian, or Armenian MSS., which could be procured at Oroomiah, and especially for a Life of Alex- ander in the Syriac, of which Dr. Lobdell had told him, the Doctor thus writes to Dr. Perkins: “ Prof. Peter- mann has been in the south of Persia the last summer with Mr. Briihl, going from Bushire to Shiraz, Isfahan, Hamadan, and Yezd, and has procured some scores of MSS., a large lot of Parthian and Sassanian coins, and some two hundred cylinders and seals, a part of them bearing fine Babylonian inscriptions. He will return to Europe via Aleppo in the spring. I have found him one of nature’s noblemen — a gentleman and scholar. He probably knows Armenian as well as any man living. He reads Syriac, Arabic, Persian, Sanscrit, and several other Oriental languages, and speaks French and English, be- sides his native German. “ The French savant, M. Fresnel, sent out here by the French Government to excavate at Babylon, is still here — a very odd Frenchman, but a very learned man. He takes a good deal of opium, and has made himself, of late, a sort of hermit. He speaks English well, and his conversation, though somewhat pedantic, is exceedingly TIIE BELGIAN COLONEL. 375 instructive. lie illustrates the beau ideal of French politeness. It is worth half a trip to Baghdad to get a sight of the human lions here, to say nothing of the beastly one in Col. Rawlinson’s outer court.” Among the “ lions ” thus alluded to in the above letter, was a Belgian, who had the office of Colonel in the Turk- ish army, “He has been in New York, Mexico, India, and China. He is now suffering from the sad effects of fumigation by calomel — the prescription of a quack for an ulcer on the nose, the Aleppo button or date-mark of Baghdad. Almost every one has this ulcer for about a year. It is seen at Mosul often. Julius has one on his left cheek now. Mary has thus far escaped. Lucy has had three on her wrists. I have had none, but am told that I shall have, now I have come to Baghdad. Its cause is mys- terious, like that of all endemics. It is generally without pain. The Belgian offered Mr. Briihl and myself two of his horses to ride to Babylon, and informed us that as soon as he gets the rank of pasha in Turkey he will return to his native country to enjoy his honors. Before that time I sincerely hope the Turkish government will be num- bered among the things that are not. It ought to go down. It is a disgrace to the age, that such a fine country should be ruled by barbarians.* It would be very easy for the English in India to come up and take this city, and indeed all Mesopotamia. There are 20,000 English sol- diers, and 400,000 native troops, officered by Englishmen, all paid by the East India Company. The pay of the officers of that company is enormous. The Colonel, with whom I stop here, receives five thousand pounds a year for his establishment — that is, as much as our President, — though only fifteen thousand dollars of this sum are for his personal salary. “I crossed the Tigris this afternoon (January 16) in a circular boat, with six or eight other persons. These boats are a curiosity. They are the same as Herodotus 376 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. describes, and the same as are portrayed on the walls of Koyunjik — mere tubs of twisted reeds and palm splints covered with bitumen.* They slide across the river about as fast as the Stamboul caiques move on the Bos- phorus, paddled by men erect, holding oars loose in their hands. “ January 17th. Having got a letter from Mohammed Reshid, Pasha of Baghdad, to Abdallah, Pasha of Hillah (the town on the Euphrates marking the site of old Baby- lon), and a letter from Dr. Hyslop to an American at Meshed Ali, some ten hours beyond — the tomb of Ali to which the Persians go on pilgrimage — Mr. Briihl and myself bade adieu to Messrs. Seecroft and Oakley, who start to-day on camels for a ride through the desert to Damascus, and got away about eight A. M., en route for a view of the Birs Nimroud and the other remains of the city beautified by Nebuchadnezzar, destroyed by the Persians, and now the home of the jackal and the vulture. The country between the Tigris and the Euphrates, below Tekrit, is almost perfectly level, of a clayey consistency, and, when irrigated, of astonishing fertility. The whole region is traversed by canals, now mostly filled up with debris, excepting in the neighborhood of the towns along the rivers, and of the khans built by Persian Shiites, who have been on pilgrimage to the tombs of Ali and his celebrated sons. These caravansaries (palaces of caravans) are located on the main roads, about two hours apart, and the lines of pilgrims that wind over the desert at this season render coffee-selling at the khans quite profitable.” Two days, or sixteen hours at a caravan pace, brought them, about three o’clock in the afternoon, to Hillah, which is about fifty miles from Baghdad, in a direction nearly south. “We found it the most wretched place imaginable. It occupies both banks of the Euphrates. * Compare the ark of bulrushes, “ daubed ” with bitumen, in which the infant Moses was placed. Ex. ii. 3. BABYLON. 377 The inhabitants are chiefly Arabs. Tall palms and a few pomegranates and figs alone relieve the barren aspect of the desert around. We stopped in the smoky dirty room of Count de Clement, a French aristocrat, who fled in the revolution of 1848, and who, after traversing Egypt and the Holy Land, is now teaching French to Abdallah Pasha, a Koordish chief, who is in honorable exile here under the title of governor. The Pasha’s library consisted of his- tories, mathematical and astronomical treatises, grammars, lexicons, and fables in French. Think of a Koord studying the differential calculus and the analytical theory of the system of the world ! “Was it not strange that I should have seen Babylon without seeing Niagara Falls ? I believe I am the first Yankee who has been to Babel. This name is still given to a large mound an hour northward of Hillah, on the east bank of the Euphrates. “ 20th. The Count and myself rode over two hours in a southerly direction, on the right bank of the river, to the Birs Nimroud, which is a gigantic mound, representing the ancient city of Borsippa, and, as I believe, the older Tower of Belus, and perhaps the very Tower of Babel, for building which the post-diluvian s were scattered over the earth.* “ What a magnificent prospect spreads out from that high ruin! the tomb of Ezekiel — the burial-place of Hussein and his half brother, Abbas — the sepulcher of Ali Mohammed’s son-in-law — the lake or marsh formed by the Euphrates flooding its western banks f — tha ranges of palms — the old canals — wandering flocks — innumerable signs of desolation amid vestiges of former cultivation, wealth, and grandeur — how can I in a hasty * A very interesting account of this tower may be found in Loftus’s Chaldzea and Susiana, chap. ii. t Isa. xiv. 23: “I will make it . . . pools of water.” “The Euphrates some distance above divides into two large streams, owing to the miserable state of the embankments, and the whole region is more or less flooded every spring.” — Dr. Lobdelfs letter to Mr. Seelye. 32* 378 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. letter describe the scene ? What an idea it gave me of Babylon fallen! But I must reserve the description till I return to Mosul, and perhaps then send it to the Biblio- theca Sacra. “ Picking up some pieces of bricks and bitumen — remains of the Temple of Belus, ornamented by Nebuchad- nezzar, before his fall — I thought of great Babylon which ( he did build — of the turning of the flood by Cyrus, and the entrance of his troops into Belshazzar’s halls — of Alexander the Great and the ten thousand men employed by him in removing the rubbish — and rode slowly back to Hillah, stammering out French ejaculations to my compcignon cle voyage , and thankful to God for letting me look upon the ruins of earth’s most ancient kingdom. I regret that I could not afford to purchase a lot of antique seals, and Babylonian cylinders, and terra-cotta heads and vases brought to me from the ruins. But I shall hope to obtain some hereafter, and I enclose now a small Baby- lonian or Graeco-Babylonian head, which I wish you to preserve, as perhaps the only relic from Babylon that has crossed the Atlantic. I shall endeavor before I leave Baghdad to obtain some bricks with cuneiform inscriptions, and send them via Cape of Good Hope and England, to Amherst. “ Sunday, 21st. We read the English service in He- brew, French, and English. Bishop Gobat of Jerusalem sometimes administers the communion in seven lan- guages at one service. “ 22d. The Count accompanied us to the ruins east of Hillah. I cutoff some branches of the only mountain tree standing on the ruins, said to be the child of one of the trees that Nebuchadnezzar planted to please his Median wife. And having taken a last look of the Birs, and the low plain around it, from the Mujelibeh,* Mr. Briihl and my- self parted company with our French friend and galloped * “So called by Rich, but known to the Arabs as Babel.”— Loftus. THEORY OF BABYLON. 379 northward to overtake our caravan. The canals often stretching across our path impeded our progress, but we reached a comfortable khan before sunset, and the next day arrived at Baghdad. I can not stop now to tell you of the scores of coffins we passed. The Persians often carry their dead, even from Central and Eastern Persia to Kerbelai and Meshed Ali for their final burial, and for the blessed resurrection. * Troops of pilgrims of every color, and of every sort of dress, on foot, on donkeys, horses, and mules, and their wives and children in kajavcts , threaded their way by us over the plain — a toilsome road indeed, but still allowing more liberties than the narrow way of the gospel. We came within sight of the tomb of Zobeide, cousin and wife of the celebrated Haroun el Raschid ; the tomb of Joshua, the Jewish high priest, who went up with the returning captives to J erusalem, and is said to have come back and died at Babylon ; and the tomb of Sheikh Shahab-ed-Din ; and soon after two P. M. we were quietly resting in Mr. Briihl’s house, at Baghdad, and enjoying a good dinner.” For some days after his return to Baghdad, Dr. Lobdell was chiefly occupied in reading old books on Babylon, and trying to frame an opinion satisfactory to himself of the re- mains of the great city. He could not bring himself to adopt the opinion of Col. Rawlinson, that the Euphrates has en- tirely changed its channel since the destruction of Baby- lon, but agreed with M. Fresnel (and Mr. Loftus, as ho has since published his views) that the river still flows very nearly in its ancient bed ; and was inclined to be- lieve that the Birs Nimroud marked the southern corner of the great square of Babylon, as Nimroud on the Tigris does the southern angle of Nineveh in its palmy days. So interested did he become in these questions, that he * Of the “ Campo Santo ” at Kerbella (s« Mr. Loftus writes the name), see Chaldea and Susiana, Chap. vii. 380 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. was sometimes tempted to wish, for the moment, that he was a savant , and he could give his time and thoughts to their investigation. But it was only for the moment. He rejoiced that he had a higher and more important work. “ It would not be difficult to become an attache to some great man in these parts ; but I choose to be for- ever an attache of Jesus Christ. I hope I shall never long for the leeks, cucumbers, and onions of Egypt, so as to give up, as some have done, the blessed work in which God has allowed me to engage. Let us have regard to the recompense of reward in heaven ; and at the same time let us labor for Christ, because this will please him .” On the 27th we find him poring over Buxtorf’s Lexicon and Bochart’s works, reading extracts from the Talmud, and regretting that Hebrew is not more studied in theological seminaries, and that the Jewish Commenta- ries are so little known by ministers and missionaries. “]STo Christian can do much with a Jew, till he has shown him that the Talmud is not from God — a thing not diffi- cult, when one knows what the Talmud really teaches.” On the 29th, Mr. Briihl and Prof. Petermann accom- panied him to Kazmain — the shrine of two Imams held in great veneration by the Shiites, about an hour north- west of the city. Soon after emerging from the city, they found themselves marching in a caravan of pilgrims. Some were carrying coffins for burial ; but most were going to offer gifts and prayers. The Shiites, being con- sidered heretics, are not allowed to pray in the mosks of the town, and so they frequent the mosks of Kaz- main. Here is a mule carrying a man and his wife, a child and a kid, besides food and bedding. There is a lady of rank on a white donkey — these white Baghdad donkeys are celebrated for their beauty and power of endurance — she is robed and veiled in silks of divers colors, with a pair of yellow boots reaching to the knees KAZMA1JX. 381 and hanging down nearly to the ground on either side, and her infant rides upon the broad saddle before her ; while her black female slave trudges along behind her, in her yellow boots and blue izar, with her thick lips appear- ing through the folds drawn over her face. There again is a company of dervishes, who inhabit the old palace by the river-side — and what antics they do exhibit ! Again, see that long train of way-worn pilgrims in cages — if so the frames may be called in which they ride ; some are asleep, some yawning, some gazing on the orange-gardens and palms and river with a vague, dreamy air, some cursing and some rejoicing. Having arrived at the mosk — a gorgeous specimen of Oriental architecture — they are not permitted to enter; but they “ could see the wide, extended court, the lofty walls and arches, the corpses borne in and out, the four great minarets, the four smaller ones, and the two gilded domes. The bones of the pilgrims are left in their graves in the court for a few months, and are then gathered to- gether in a great pit ! The nearer they are placed to the great mosk, the more costly is the burial. Every body is taxed, that enters the enclosure. Mr. Briihl tells me, that not long since, to avoid the duty, a Persian wrapped the bones of a relative in a bundle, and tried to smuggle them within the gate, but he was detected and imprisoned. The Belgian Colonel, Mesaud Bey, on whom they called on their return to the city, told them large stories of the treasure — the cloth of gold and pearls covering the tombs of the saints, the ornaments of gold and silver hanging from the walls, and all the varied and accumu- lated gifts of Persians and Indians, who for ages have made pilgrimages to Kazmain. On the 30th Dr. Lobdell visited the J ewish Hospital — a very different sort of refuge from those of Christian lands. “We found a large number of Jews there, all in rags, all with venerable earlocks and beards, and all either 382 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. studying the Talmud, or listening to tales from the Ash- kenaz, (German and Polish Jews,) who have wandered hither to escape being drafted into the army. A blind man was repeating David’s Psalms, which he knew by heart. Mr. Briihl had a long discussion in* Hebrew with some old gray-bearded sons of Abraham 4 according to the flesh,’ and their bitter hate of Christianity exceeded any thing I have yet seen of bigotry. Do you know that, in the Talmud, a Jew is forbidden to help a Gentile out of danger — to save his life. This was doubtless a tradi- tionary doctrine in the time of Christ, and hence his parable of the good Samaritan to show, who is the Jew’s neighbor.” 44 1 am almost afraid, from the news by the last letters from Tehran, that political matters may require Mr. Murray to go up from Bushire through Shiraz. But I wait patiently for his appearance here, or, at least, for the appearance of Capt. Jones’s steamer. I took a walk to- day through the vacant north-east part of the town. The eastern gate has long been closed ; indeed, no one has entered it, since Murad, the Turkish conqueror of Bagh- dad, entered and shut it some hundred and fifty years ago. The walls are very slender ; the bastions show a few cannon. Holes in the walls allow of occasional smug- gling. Every thing is taxed in Turkey. Direct taxation, it is thought, is better than a protective tariff. It is certain, that free trade in Turkey is good for England ; but it has almost ruined the manufactures of the land. 44 The mosks continue to attract my admiration. The blue, white, dark, light shadings on the burnished spires and domes are indicative of a glory that has passed away. Foreigners are treated well here. Beggars abound. In fact, you would think, at first sight, all the people were beggars. Almost the whole population are clothed in very cheap and generally dirty muslins, brown, red, yellow, blue ; and no suit is changed, till it is worn to VISIT TO TIIE PASIIA. 383 rags. Baths abound ; but they do not keep the people clean. And yet Baghdad is one of the first cities of the Empire. “31st. Prof. Petermann and I have just returned from a visit to the Pasha. Last night it rained hard. When it does rain here (which is very seldom, and not at all in midsummer), it rains ; and the side-walks were very muddy. But having reached the loosely covered bazaars, we had a comfortable walk through their long avenues to the palace, where a brass band was playing very decent music. Mesaud Bey (the Belgian), who was a Christian once, and is a Moslem now, but tells me he is really a believer in materialism, and has no doubt that the soul dies with the body, and so is ready for war, vice, virtue, death, alike, — this new friend accompanied us from the lithographic press-room, in which passports only are printed, to the innermost court of the building, where, in a room well furnished, with painted walls, a wooden ceil- ing, and Persian rugs, we found a king. What else shall I call the man who keeps his seat whoever enters ; who wears a rich fur robe and an emerald ring, and fondles a massive gold snuff-box ; who rules with a rod of iron the people from the Persian Gulf to Diarbekr ; who prefers his post of marshal here to the office of grand vizier at Constantinople ; who studied at Metz, became a captain in the French army, was pasha at Jerusalem, captured Beder Khan Bey at Jezireh, carried a victorious banner from Erzeroom into northern Koordistan, is surrounded by a crowd of obsequious slaves, and was once a slave boy in the wilds of Circassia? The Pasha expatiated in French on the liberty of conscience in Turkey; said that slavery here is a benefit, and not, as in America, a curse, to slaves, instancing the fact that those who brought us coffee and pipes were already rich, and assured us that Koordistan, whither he has just sent a large body of troops to bring Yezdinshir Bey to terms, will soon ^ mn’pt. 384 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. “To Prof. Petermann he gave a ‘Life of Alexander 5 in Turkish, and loaned him several other Turkish books, among which is a collection of the Letters of the Sultans from the time of Mohammed to Suleiman the Great, six- teen of the letters being by Mohammed himself Only forty copies of this interesting work were printed, and these solely for the marshals of the realm ; quorum pars fui. The Pasha’s library contained such books as D’Herbelot’s Bibliotheque Orientate, Boyle’s works, Na- poleon’s writings, treatises in French on engineering, fortification, the art of war and chemistry, and manuscripts in Persian, Turkish, and Arabic. “ The air of the man Avas quite regal. He bowed us out with Turkish reserve and French politeness. He is called by the people, “ Guzhulc ,” because he wears spec- tacles. He is evidently the most learned man I have yet seen belonging to Turkey. He has a fine head, dark skin, a black beard, full face, and large abdomen, — a genus of which there are many species in the East. Were he not so rapacious, so self-conceited, so distant, he would be a respectable man in almost any circle. His morals, of course, I can not speak of, except to say that he has an extensive harem, and was, I learn, caught yester- day reading Luke’s gospel. “ Feb. 8th. I was just on the eve of starting for home yesterday, having engaged a muleteer to take my cook and baggage, and two horses for myself and Jeremiah to go with the post \ when lo ! the English vice-consul called to tell me that the ambassador was expected in a few hours, a note having been received from him, stating that he was, at the time of writing, near Ctesiphon, only a few miles below Baghdad. He will remain there, looking at the famous Parthian Arch, and the other vestiges of Ctes- iphon that are still found, and, perhaps, take a view of Seleucia, on the other bank of the Tigris, and thus give the officials here time to prepare their music and cannon CALL ON MR. MURRAY. 385 for his reception. Of course I concluded to delay my departure. I had prepared, the day previous, a letter for His Excellency, and also received the promise of Col. Raw- linson that he would present my business favorably to the envoy, so that I considered I had by no means failed of my great purpose, even though I did not see the man I came to see. “ P.M. Thirteen guns have just been fired by the Turks, and as many by the English on board the steamer, in honor of the envoy’s arrival. “ I have been very busy to-day making a translation of the preface to a work written at St. Petersburg!), on the vulgar Arabic. I think I shall add to the article some remarks on the peculiarities of the Arabic of Assyria and Mesopotamia, and send it to the Oriental Society. ct 9th, I have, this morning, called, with Mr. Briihl and Prof. Petermann, on Mr. Murray. He is about forty-five years of age. I judge from his remark that a man of forty-five feels very differently about traveling, from what he did at twenty-five. It is about twenty years since he was roving among the Indians of our north-west territo- ries, and now he is to cross the cold Zagros mountains in rain and snow. He will remain here some time, however, ’ I understand, to visit Babylon. “ I was much pleased with the man. He spoke German and French as freely as English, and I presume he knows some Arabic and Turkish as well as several other Euro- pean languages, and, perhaps, has studied the Persian. He is my beau-ideal of a first-rate Englishman, though I believe he is half French and half Scotch. He has none of the grumble of Mr. Bull. To-morrow he is to receive calls from native dignatiries, and the next day (Sunday ! ) he will return them ; and so I shall have to wait till Monday for a private interview. “ He showed us an earthen bowl (obtained at Busrah, I believe, by Capt. Jones), on the inside of which was 38 386 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. written in Syrian characters an inscription of the Sabeans of St. John. It much resembled the bowls described by Layard near the end of his “ Nineveh and Babylon,” which were internally covered with rough Hebrew characters, and so were evidently Jewish. They were probably charms , though why the inscription should be inside of the bowl, I do not quite understand. Perhaps it is a pre- scription to be dissolved and swallowed ! This bowl had certainly lost some of its letters, as if by the action of some liquid. Prof. Petermann, who has studied the reli- gion and language of the Sabeans perhaps more thor- oughly than any other man, took the bowl home to ex- amine it. He expects to publish an account of this curious sect on his return to Berlin. “ Having taken our leave of the ambassador we called on Mr. Holland, an officer of the steamer, who showed us his daughters and wife (a native woman), and a beautiful roe deer, and then went with us on board the steamer, which is armed with several cannon, and a lot of guns, pikes, and cutlasses, and is manned by English, Hindos- tanees, and Fellahs from the region of Mosul.” On Sunday, Dr. Lobdell attended in the morning Mr. Bruhl’s service in Hebrew ; at ten o’clock, English ser- vice at the residency; at noon, an Arabic and Hebrew service again. Mr. Murray held his levee in full court dress; and in the evening Col. Rawlinson gave the ambassador a magnificent dinner, — Sunday, among too many of the English in the East, as well as among the Oriental Christians, being a day for visiting and dining. “How little thought is given to the eternal world by these devotees of pleasure?” On Monday the doctor breakfasted with his Mosul ac- quaintance and friend, Capt. Jones, — Capt. Selby, of the steamer, also being present, — and was shown the beauti- ful maps of Nineveh and Babylon from trigonometrical surveys, made by the former. “ They are most carefully RETURN BY TOST. 387 and richly drawn ; and the map of Nineveh is to be pub- lished in the journal of the Royal Asiatic Society, as soon as the engravers can finish it. I trust the map of Babylon will also be issued in a few months by the same Society; though it is possible, as the captain is an officer of the East India Company, he may be required to submit it to them. It has on it a restoration of the Birs Nimroud, with a flaming altar at the summit of its seven lofty terraces. “I have just had a very pleasant interview with the ambassador, who promised to do all in his power to aid my Oroomiah friends, and will give me a letter to that effect. He said that owing to some late mismanagement of affairs at Tehran, the English were not on good terms with the government. But he hoped by coaxing, instead of threatening, to get into the Shah’s good graces, and if he succeeded, he would be able to show him the absurdity of retrenching our operations, and that he ought either to stop them entirely as injurious, or leave them alone as beneficial. If the Americans could benefit a hundred and fifty, why not a thousand and fifty as well ?” The object of his journey having been accomplished, Dr. Lobdell set out on Tuesday morning, Feb. 13th, by post, on his return to Mosul. A strong bouyouroulder from the pasha secured him a ready change of horses, and generally all proper attention and obedience. “ The men- zils , or post-stations, are from four to nine hours apart by caravan. The post generally goes in about half the time, on a very fast walk, with an occasional gallop. A sernjjee accompanies the post from one station to another, attends to the saddles and extra clothing or baggage ; and the next day takes the animals back to their station. Our serujjee carried behind his saddle two thick quilts, a cloak, and a woolen blanket — my bedding — and over his sad- dle he laid two pieces of carpet, that I carried, to be spread, as mattresses, upon the ground floors where I slept. 388 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. Jeremiah carried in his saddle-bags a small coffee-pot, knife and fork, spoons, salt, pepper, boiled eggs, cooked chicken, bread, and dates. I tied two over-coats behind me, having brought my bridle and saddle from Mosul for this journey. My pillow at night was my cushion by day ; and I came to Southgate’s conclusion, that a single trav- eler can move from place to place more conveniently by post than by caravan.” The route was on the east side of the Tigris, for a time near the river’s bank, because of the flood at this season, but afterwards midway between the Tigris and the Dialah, often crossing or riding alongside of the beds of canals, which once watered the intervening country. The first night, having lost their way in the dark, and wandered sometime among the marshes, they were glad to draw up their horses and spread their blankets on the ground, near some Arab tents, not knowing whether the occupants were friends or foes. The second night they passed at Kifri, “ a respectable town lying under the range of moun- tains, which runs eastward to Suleimaniyeh, and sur- rounded by a turreted mud wall, built by Hakky Bey, late defbardar of Mosul, to enable the people to protect themselves from the Koords and Arabs — old Kifri lay around a fine large mound some miles westward.” The third night brought them to Kerkhuk, a large place built at the base of a high mound, whose Pasha is superior even to the Pasha of Arbeel. An hour and half from Kerkhuk, the next morning, they came to “ the famous bitumen springs which are always boiling, the liquid naphtha ris- ing to the surface, and offering itself gratis to persons who put it into skins and convey it on the backs of don- keys, even to Baghdad. I suppose this is the place where Alexander the Great was surprised to see the streets of a town flashing with bituminous lights the evening of the day after the battle at Arbela, though there are no traces of the town remaining.” The fourth night the Doctor HOME. 389 came upon the track of his tour to Oroomiah at Arbeel. “ The road from Baghdad to Mosul makes a long curve to the east, to avoid the Arabs of the desert. The near- est route would be on the west side of the Tigris.” On Saturday, Feb. 17 th, he rode through familiar scenes, crossed the Zab and the Khazir (both now on a raft — on his way to Oroomiah he had forded the latter,) passed through Bartulli, leaving Karamles an hour on the left, and Sheikh Mattai an hour on the right, found the plain of Nineveh more generally cultivated than any of equal extent he had seen on his journey, hurried past the walls and trenches of the ancient city, was ferried across the Tigris, and entered his court before his arrival was an- nounced “ for a wonder, as a boy will almost always run before to carry such glad tidings and get his buckshish. All were well. My ride of fifty-eight hours by post-horses — a hundred by caravan — or some three hundred miles, circuitous, dangerous, dull, was ended ; no rain had fallen upon me by the way ; no robber had attacked me ; my mission was fulfilled, and I was again at home, ‘sweet, sweet home.’ Why should I not thank God and rejoice ?” 33 * CHAPTER XIX. Occupations after his return from Baghdad — Chills and Fever — Last Letter — Last Entry in private Journal — Mrs. Lobdell's Journal of his Sickness — Death — Burial by the side of Dr. Grant — Communion of Choice Spirits in Heaven — Wife and Children — Age — Brainerd — Martyn — Fruits of his Labors— Character— Recollections and Impressions of his Friends — Mr. Lothrop — Mr. Seelye — Dr. Perkins — Mr. Marsh. For nearly a fortnight after his return from Baghdad, Dr. Lobdell enjoyed apparently his usual health, and was very busy in writing up his journals, in correspondence with the Nestorian mission, in revising and correcting his notes on the Anabasis, in repacking in a safer and more portable form the slabs, bricks and other antiquities for the colleges ; in examining the recent discoveries of Mr. Loftus, particularly a collection of very beautiful ivories, or as the Doctor thought them, clays, exquisitely wrought into idols, small bulls, lions, and other religious emblems ; and in preaching, talking to great numbers in his study, and administerring to the bodily and spiritual maladies of still greater crowds at the dispensary. Having heard that friends in Amherst had made up a box of books, clothing, and to her comforts for him, he writes on the 22d of February, (1855): “The arrival of that box will cause me many a tear of joy, I am sure; for the stock of cloth- ing I brought with me is quite threadbare, and with all my attempts at economy this year, I find my expenses exceed my salary. I would present my thanks to Mrs. T. and Mrs. M. in advance of its reception. May the Lord reward all who have contributed thus to the comfort of LAST LETTER. 391 an unworthy missionary. I trust I shall be able to acknowledge the arrival of the box in a few months.” Mrs. Lobdell had the melancholy satisfaction of looking over these tokens of friendship and Christian affection sent to her husband by those who had known and loved him in the place of his education — alone, some weeks after he was laid in liis grave. On Tuesday, Feb. 27th, Mr. Marsh and Mr. Williams left to attend the annual meeting of the mission at Diar- bekr. Wednesday, the 28th, he was feverish all day, but prepared a sermon, talked with a crowd of papists till he was tired, prescribed and preached to eighty-five patients, delivered his sermon to the church in the evening, and went to bed with a chill and fever. On Thursday, March 1st, he wrote his last letter — to Dr. Wright — and made his last entry in his journal. In the letter he says : “ Mr. Williams and Mr. Marsh left for Diarbekr by post on Tuesday evening, going through the desert to Nisibin, the same route taken by our party last year. A battle I hear has been fought near Chulagha, a village on their road about a day west of Jezireh, between the Koords and the Turks, the latter being victorious. It is said that a thou- sand Koords were killed, and about half that number were made prisoners. Yezdinshir Bey and his brother fled under cover of the fog. The Turks marched on and entered Jezireh. “ Last evening I had one of my old-fashioned chills, with fever; but this morning I feel tolerably comfortable. I attribute it to my daily service at the dispensary ; the room occupied being somewhat damp, and the sick crowd- ing it so that the air became impure. I have had over eighty patients there every day of late ; and my attempt * to prepare a sermon for the ckurcli in the evening, in addition to talking half an hour to the sick, was a little too much for me. I rather hope the fever will not return. “To-day I am ‘loafing 5 about the court, superintending % 392 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. the re-sawing and re-packing of some of your sculptures. Quite a number of the boxes were so heavy, that Antone, my wakeel , was obliged to have them brought up (from Nimroud) on mules singly, instead of putting them upon a camel, two for a load. One of the slabs, being very brittle, was badly broken in the transit, but as it is a unique figure, I thought it best to send it. In order to get a va- riety — no two being alike — I was obliged, in one or two cases, to send figures a little less valuable in themselves. The whole six form a fine set, and would do well in a single gallery. I shall send several large bricks, and were it in my power, I would obtain some small relies. Perhaps I will put a number of seals from my own collection into a little box as private gifts. Some of your friends may like a few little stones for rings or breast-pins. “ Do you know that each large slab was sawn into five or six pieces ? Console your Dartmouth friends with this con- solation, that they can have the sculptures cemented together, if broken into a hundred pieces, so that the frac- tures will scarcely be noticeable. “ In addition to a covering of wool and ketcheh within each box, I fasten a rope outside to hold the box together, and over this sew a thick felt. I ought to feel obliged to you for the privilege of packing these slabs, for it is a diversion to me such a day as this, when I am a little feverish.” The last entry in his private journal, together with refer- ences to the above letter and some of the facts in it, is as follows : “ Court a scene of labor. The sick press on me. Head aches. Fear sickness. Happy in leaving myself with God.” Thus Dr. Lobdell came near to the end of life, as he had lived, working for mankind and trusting in God. During the whole period of his sickness, those boxes, containing slabs and collections for Dartmouth, Amherst, and the Missionary Rooms at Boston, remained in his court, fit emblems and touching memorials of his busy and self-sacrificing life. SICKNESS. 393 Mrs. Lobdell takes up tlic journal of her husband’s sick- ness where lie leaves it, and carries it on for twenty-five days, during most of which she was with him day and night, without undressing. The burden of anxiety and responsibility which pressed upon her and Mrs. Marsh, was greatly increased by the absence of Mr. Marsh and Mr. Williams. For several days he was able to be dressed, and come out into the parlor, or lounge on the mokaab in the study, and even to receive an occasional call. But he grew continually worse, till his wife had many fears that his sickness would be unto death. He did not as yet apprehend a fatal termination, but he remarked that he never before felt so willing to die. On the 7th, at the advice of Mr. Loftus, he was bled by a Moslem barber, without, however, reducing his pulse, which was very high ; and through the night he talked more or less incoherently till the morning. The next day he was very sick — pulse 120 — talked about dying — said, “ I do not fear death ; no, I know in whom I have believed ; it is a great comfort to have had an object in life, an object worth living for, however poorly one may have accomplished it. I have been a great sin- ner, but I have great confidence in the mercy of God. Christ does not look at the stains.” When asked if it was not a great comfort that he had not his preparation to make now, he replied, “ Oh ! yes — oh ! yes / I could do nothing now ; I have tried to do too much all the time I have been in Mosul.” When Mrs. L. spoke of being left alone, he said, “ Trust in the Lord ; don’t be afraid.” When she prayed with him, he said, “ You ask that I may get well ; you do n’t ask that I may have a glorious seat in the kingdom of God — that is what I want.” The next day, (March 9th,) he inquired if the ladies prayed for him, and added, “You must continue to pray.” When asked by Mrs. L. how he felt about leaving her in 394 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. this cold world, he replied, “ Very much as Abraham felt when he was called to offer up Isaac.” On the 12th, a line was received from Mr. Marsh and Mr. Williams. They had been stripped by the Arabs, and were at Mardin when they wrote. “ Oh,” said the Doctor, “ how I do want to see them both ! I love them very much.” A messenger had been sent for them on the ninth day of his sickness, but owing to the disturbed state of the country, it did not reach them till eight days later ; and it was five days more — the twentieth day of his sick- ness — before Mr. Marsh reached Mosul. Meanwhile the Doctor’s symptoms were sometimes more favorable, so as to encourage strong hopes of his recovery, and he even enjoyed a call from Mr. Loftus; but as his fever abated, his strength failed, and he was frequently delirious. On Sunday, March 18th, after an almost sleepless night, he thought he could not remain long, and wished to sit up in the bed and address some last words of counsel to those around him. To his wife, he repeated the charge to trust in God and fear nothing; and after some advice in reference to the children, at the same time clasping his little Mary to his bosom and kissing her, he said, “ Bless the Lord for giving us these children.” To the English consul’s wife, who was present, he said, “ Do be a good woman, Mrs. R. ; be good to the poor. I have thought much about your dear husband. I hope you will both be heirs of eternal life.” To one of the native brethren, who stood by, he said, “ I am afraid you do not pray enough in your family ; be more faithful to your children.” To the cook, who had just been rubbing his hands to get them warm, he said, “Believe in Jesus, and train your children in the way they should go.” Another native woman, he warned to care for her soul, saying, “You have a good husband, Sarah, and it is the grace of God that has made him what he is.” Thus did he continue to preach, even on his dying bed. SYMPATHY OF NATIVE CHRISTIANS. 395 The native Christians, on their part, prayed earnestly for his recovery, and were eager to render every possible service. There was no want of watchers — sometimes three or four at night taking turns, and ready to be called upon. Jeremiah was at the house every night for a fort- night. “We do not want the doctor to die,” said he, “ if the Lord can spare him, we need him.” Micha said, “ The sin of Mosul is very great, that the Lord afflicts us by taking away our teachers.” But prayers and tears, watching and nursing, were without avail. He grew continually worse. The nights of the 19th and 20th were sad nights to the poor mission- ary’s wife, who had no medical adviser in whom she could repose confidence, and no skillful hand or strong arm on which she could lean. It was with the utmost difficulty she could control him in his hours of delirium — again and again did he leave the bed and wander into the room which had been the scene of his chosen labors. On the 21st Mr. Marsh arrived. As he entered the sick room, the doctor raised his thin arms, saying, “ Praise to God,” “ praise to God,” and threw them about his neck, and wept. It was a great relief to the ladies. Yet Mrs. Lobdeil felt that it was too late to save him — too late to take such sweet couusel with him as they might have taken, early in his sickness. “Many precious things” — such is the record of her feelings made at the time — “ many precious things has he said to Julia (Mrs. Marsh) and myself. Oh for such an unwavering trust in the Saviour as he has! Again and again has he said, “Lucy, trust in the Lord, and do not fear.” His precious, blessed Mary,* as he often calls her, and his darling Julius, he * The doctor’s tender affection for this child illustrates that “ cross play In nature” by which the father often has a peculiar love for a daughter, and the mother for a son. She could steal into his arms in his busiest hours, and when she was sick, he would lay aside everything and attend to her. 396 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. cheerfully resigns to the Lord, saying, “ He is a father to the fatherless, and the widow’s God.” On the 22d the friends gave up all hope of his recovery, and began to make arrangements for the sad event. On the 23d, after a more comfortable night, the Italian doctor assured them that he was better. He had not the full command of his mind, but, almost without exception, he was rational on religious subjects. “I am weak,” he said to Mr. Marsh, “but I rejoice in the Almighty.” “ Saturday, 24th. This morning I thought Henry could not live till sunset, his face looked so death-like, but he still lives. “Sunday, 25th. Watched H. all night, expecting to see him breathe his last, but he still lingers, almost un- conscious. As I was passing his bed he tried to beckon me to him. I went to him, but he could not speak to me. His lamp is nearly gone out.” He continued to breathe softly, sweetly, feebly, till, just as the Sabbath was closing on earth, he passed to the eternal rest of heaven. Through all the hours of that Sabbath day the door and windows of the room where the good man w^as dying were kept open, and the native brethren came in and looked at him as often as they pleased. They w^ould stand a few minutes, and then go out into the court and sit in silence, and often the big tears would roll down their cheeks. Thus did he preach to the last moment of his life. His death was a sermon, which was heard and understood and felt by Mohammedans, as well as Chris- tians, of all ranks throughout Mosul. Every body knew him; every body honored and loved him and said, “ There lived and died a Christian.” The sympathy and regret were the more lively because he died so young ; and tins may be one reason why Providence permits so many of his devoted servants to be cut down in the very beginning of their usefulness. Brainerd and Martyn would not have BURIED. 397 excited such universal and peculiar interest, had they lived to a good old age, and their memoirs have moved more hearts to a holy and heroic life, than they could have reached by their direct efforts in thrice threescore years and ten. The next day, Monday the 26tli, a service in English was held at the house, Mr. Marsh officiating. A part of the fifteenth chapter of the First Epistle to the Corinthians, was read, and they sung the hymn : “ Asleep in Jesus 3 blessed sleep ! ” The English Consul was at the service, and went with them to the grave. At the request of Messrs. Loftus and Boutcher, the French Consul applied to the pasha, and permission was given to bury in the new cemetery, with- out the walls. Dr. Lobdell’s body lies by the side of Dr. Grant’s ; their dust will mingle till the resurrection ; and who can tell how sweet is the communion which their spirits hold, as they recount their kindred labors, trials and experiences, in the paradise of God, where “ the sun shall not light on them, nor any heat, for the Lamb which is in the midst of the throne shall feed them, and shall lead them unto living fountains of waters; and God shall wipe away all tears from their eyes.” How many such choice spirits have already been gath- ered out of the earth ! How rich and bright is heaven already with such jewels ! With what holy interest do they look back upon the field of their earthly labors and con- flicts to see how the work is going on, and who have risen up to fill their places ! And when all the Christian heroes who have led the van in the conquest of the world and fallen in the very midst of the enemy’s country — when the whole sacramental host that have fought the battles of the Lord are assembled around the throne, how delightful will be their fellowship with each other ; what a spectacle will they be to principalities and powers in heavenly places, 34 398 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. and with what infinite complacency will their great King and Captain look upon them ; with what ineffable glory will he shine upon them forever ! Will then the ardent and aspiring youth — the Christian youth of our country — be reluctant to fill their places as fast as they are made vacant by death, and even swell the little band of heroes into a great army ! “ As fast as famine, hardship, sick- ness, cannon balls, thin the ranks of the allied armies before Sebastopol, others are sent to fill their places, for the nations are in earnest . Will the churches show as much zeal? Will they show a thousandth part of it? Christ died for us, came to 4 this end.’ Who for his sake is ready to fill the breach ? ” Thus wrote Mr. Williams, when he communicated the intelligence of Dr. Lobdell’s death. And we repeat the question, 44 Who is willing to be baptized for the dead ? ” Who would not long for the honor and the privilege, if he did but understand that great law of the spiritual universe, from which even the Master was not exempt, “ except a corn of wheat fall into the ground and die, it abideth alone ; but if it die, it bringeth forth much fruit.” There was preaching in Arabic at sunset for three even- ings after the burial, and the house was filled with atten- tive and solemn hearers. “ I think their hearts are really bowed with grief,” writes Mrs. Marsh to Mrs. W alker, of Diarbekr ; “ Oh, may they be led to more diligence and faithfulness in prayer! Oh, may the Lord comfort their hearts and ours! The Doctor had endeared himself to me during scenes of sickness and trial; but I never loved him so much as when watching and attending him during those long nights and weary days ; I felt that we could not let him go. Hanna (Mrs. Marsh’s servant), who was with us the night before he died, said to Mrs. Lobdell, 4 If the Lord takes him, it is because he loves him’ — so it is, and we will not call him back. He sleeps in Jesus ; may we be prepared to sleep with him, and rise with him, AGE. 399 and the other dear ones who now rest in that little enclosure — at the resurrection morning.” The reader, who lias become interested in Dr. Lobdell, will be glad to know thus much of those whom he has left behind him. The companion of his bosom partook so much of his spirit that she stood by him in his last mo- ments with perfect calmness, and was wonderfully sus- tained through those subsequent days, and weeks, almost every hour of which brought with it something to remind her of her irreparable loss. Little Mary, too, saw her father die with complacency, and thought it was a blessed thing to die ; and after his burial she said, “ they put his body in the ground, but his spirit has gone to the Lord ; he is in heaven.” “ Papa, papa,” was on the lips of the little boy, as well as of his older sister, for many days, though he is too young to retain any permanent remem- brance of his father. Mrs. Lobdell still remains a mission- ary at Mosul, to labor for her poor sisters there, and to “ fill up what is behind,” so far as possible, of her husband’s labors and sufferings for Christ’s sake, and “ for his body’s sake, which is the church.” “ I shall never for one mo- ment regret,” she says in a letter to her husband’s friends, “ having come to this land ; I am happier in the little native prayer meeting here than I ever was in America. If I could be the means of saving one of these women, I would gladly remain three years longer. I have just reached the point where I can do them good, and should I now go home I should feel that I had not done what I could.” Dr. Lobdell was only a little more than twenty-eight years of age when he died. Brainerd was twenty-nine. Martyn was thirty-two. It is said, that Martyn knew of only one, whom he reckoned as a true convert from among the heathen through his instrumentality. How many were savingly benefited by Dr. Lobdell during his 400 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. short missionary life of less than three years, we do not know. In the judgment of charity — in his own judg- ment, certainly more than one. But had he died, as some missionaries have, without seeing a single convert, his life and death would not have been in vain. Had there been no apparent fruit, it would even then have contributed “ to fill up what is behind of the afflictions of Christ.” Did the soldiers who fell at Lexington and Bunker Hill, do less for their country’s independence, than those who lived through the war ? In every war, there must be those who fall in the early stages of the conflict; and none contribute more than these — per- haps none contribute so much as these — to the final result. A great deal of preparatory work must be done in almost every mission. And by constitution, by educa- tion, by profession — in every way, Dr. Lobdell was ad- mirably fitted to do this work. He removed prejudice. He commanded respect. He won the admiration and affection of those who knew him. His medicine opened the ears and the hearts of the people. His logic tore up error by the roots. And his preaching of the truth was with power. The number of regular hearers was trebled in those three years ; and, though there were not those special mani- festations of the presence and power of the Spirit, which have been experienced in some missionary congregations, there was a greater proportional increase of numbers in the church and congregation, more of the manifest fruits of the Spirit in the hearts and lives of Christians, and far more of the spirit of serious and earnest inquiry in the com- munity, than is seen in the average of churches at ordinary times in America ; so that, although Mosul is a compara- tively hard and barren field, the history of that station, even during Dr. Lobdell’s brief connection with it in the seed-time of its existence, irrespective of a future harvest, would perhaps corroborate his apparently extravagant proposition, touching the comparative usefulness of min- CHARACTER. 401 isters at home and foreign missionaries, in the letter to the Society of Inquiry at Andover.* Of the character of Dr. Lobdell, it is hoped, little need be said at the close of this extended memoir. He has spoken it out and acted it out on every page, till it is as perspicuous to the reader, as it was transparent in itself. Unless we are quite mistaken, the readers of these pages have been, all the while, not only observing the conduct, but looking into the heart, of a man , a scholar , and a Christian — areal and true man without any sham, or show, or cant, or false pretence whatsoever — a whole and (to use a favorite word of the Doctor himself) live man, many-sided and alive on all sides to every thing above, beneath and around him — a self-made and self-controlled man, (so far as one can be in human society and under the divine government,) content, nay, resolved to be himself, and not a mere duplicate of somebody else, con- scientiously determined to be what God intended him to be, ambitiously aspiring to become all that God made him capable of becoming, governed by his own reason and conscience and will with a sovereignty as absolute in himself as it was exclusive of the dictation of others — a scholar enthusiastic and comprehensive rather than ac- curate or profound, loving knowledge for its own sake and at the same time seeking it in the full persuasion that all knowledge is useful, fond of philological and anti- quarian researches, but exploring the dusty past chiefly in search of wisdom for the living present, and rejoicing in all the discoveries of science, as not only consistent with, but parts of, the science of God — a Christian, not by creed and profession only, but in the deepest convic- tions of his heart and in the whole spirit and tenor of his life, taught not by the schools, or even by the church, but by the word and Spirit of God, and making it his daily 34* See page 337. 402 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. business to do the will of Christ — a Christian physician, liking his profession well enough in itself, and laboring in it with much success, but valuing it chiefly as a means of alleviating the distresses and saving the souls of men — a Christian minister of the Pauline stamp, reasoning with Jews and Gentiles, in the synagogues and in the market- places, week days as well as Sundays, out of the Scriptures and from the light of nature, becoming all things to all men, passionately desirous to know every thing, yet in every thing knowing nothing but Jesus Christ and him crucified — a Christian missionary, who really believed, and acted as if he believed, that Pagans and Moham- medans and mere nominal Christians were traveling the broad road to destruction, and that nothing could save them but a living faith in Christ — a Christian patriot, glorying in his birthright as an American, and look- ing to his country as, under God, the hope of the world, and, for that very reason, longing to see his coun- try’s sin and shame wiped away — a young American, with all the virtues and not altogether free from the faults which pertain to that fast age and race — a Chris- tian philanthropist, fully convinced that the gospel of Christ is the remedy, and the only remedy, for all the ills that flesh is heir to, and therefore rallying all his own powers and summoning the best energies of the best minds in Christendom to determined, unwearied and self-sacri- ficing efforts for its universal application. If we have succeeded in exhibiting our subject in this character and light, our object is accomplished. If we have failed, it were useless for us to prolong the effort. We shall, therefore, only add a few words from the pens of others, which will show the recollections and impressions he has left on those who had the best opportunity to know him. His class-mate and, for a season, room-mate in college, who, when they were Sophomores, united with him in ESTIMATION BY OTHERS. 403 the resolutions recorded in a former chapter, but who was providentially prevented from going abroad with him, thus writes : “ Indomitable energy characterized him always and every where : and had it been upheld by a physical constitution to match, the world would have been proud of his achievements. Many points, which others settle by the unquestioned authority of education, he held in suspense, till his own judgment gave him a decided conviction. His piety, while healthy in its emo- tional nature, was especially marked by deep and un- yielding Christian principle. Persecution could not move him. His constant cheerfulness and buoyancy of spirits, made him always a pleasant companion.” The friend, who knew him more intimately than any other, Rev. J. H. Seelye, has sketched as follows the prominent traits of his character : “ In thinking of Dr. Lobdell, I never lose a feeling of astonishment at the amount of work he accomplished. If actions are the true measure of life, he lived long, though his years were few. I think, few men have died so young and yet left behind them so long a record of such varied action. He ex- emplified whatever of truth there is in that much abused expression : — ‘a self-made man.’ His own inner resources carried him through difficulties, when every one else failed either in the ability or the willingness to assist him. His preparation for college was conducted mainly by himself with the aid of books alone. While in col- lege, many of his expenses were defrayed by his own labor. Yet he never allowed the effect of this to be seen in his studies. He always maintained a rank in scholar- ship among the very first of his class. I do not think, he ever failed to be present at a recitation, while in college, or to recite finely and promptly, when called upon. His punctuality in the performance of any duty assigned him was very marked. He was always in his seat at prayers, and at class recitations in time. He was 404 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. faithful in his attendance upon the literary societies, of which he was a member, and fulfilled his appointments in them with scrupulous exactness. “ At the same time his reading was very various. I have often been surprised at the number of books, with whose contents he had contrived to become acquainted. Though with so much else to attend to and nothing neglected, he yet found time to pass beyond the topics ordinarily con- sidered in college studies. He undertook to settle for himself many of the problems, which have always in- terested and baffled the maturest minds. The questions relating to nature and to God, to sin and the soul, and especially the connections of the inner and the outer world in our consciousness, were often in his thoughts. An essay, which he read before the class in the discussions of Senior Year, upon ‘the Relations of Psychology to Physiology,’ was a singular example of how much he had read and thought. “ His place was always filled at the class and college prayer meetings. His religious character and influence showed that he could be both diligent in business and fervent in spirit. He was evidently a growing Christian all through college ; and every student, especially of his class, felt increasingly the power of his personal religious influence.” After speaking of the number and variety of his studies and labors — literary, scientific, medical, theological, min- isterial, missionary, historical, archaeological — with which the reader is already sufficiently familiar, in his college course, during his professional studies, and in his public life, Mr. Seelye says : “ Besides all this, I never lose my wonder at the number of letters which he wrote — not merely in correspondence with his friends, but expressing his carefully formed opinions on important questions — and the wide variety of topics which he found time to investigate and to discuss. MR. SEEL YE. 405 “ If what I have written should be told me of almost any other man, I should have said that so many efforts in so short a time must have been superficially conducted. But this was far from being the case with Dr. Lobdell. He was in no sense a superficial man. His work was as remarkable for its thoroughness as for its variety. lie knew very well when the bottom of a subject was reached, and he was never satisfied to stop short without reach- ing it. “ It is not difficult to detect what was his secret of doing so many things and of doing them all so well. He never had any idle moments. The time which others would have spent in recreation or amusement, he spent in work. Added to this, he had a rare faculty of doing with his might, what he undertook to do. He could throw his whole energy into the work in hand. Moreover, he never lost any time in his transitions from one duty to another. When he sat down to any work he was not obliged to wait any time for his mind to become stimulated and aroused. If obliged to leave for an hour an employment in which he was all absorbed, he could spend that hour engaged in something altogether different, without any abatement of interest or any loss of time for the interrup- tion. Though he did so many things, it was still but one thing at a time which thoroughly occupied him, and when this was finished, or the time he could devote to it had expired, he could at once enter as thoroughly into some- thing else. Dr. Lobdell had emphatically that strong will which can not only triumph over obstacles, but which can change even difficulties into stepping-stones of progress. “ It might also be supposed that so much energy and such constant labor must have been connected with some marked deficiencies in Dr. Lobdell’s social character. But I know of no such deficiencies. He could never have been a hermit. Indeed he had an uncommon fondness for society. He was affectionate in every social relation. 406 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. He was a frank, warm hearted, generous and true friend. Those to whom he was bound by the ties of kindred or affec- tion, he greatly loved and was greatly beloved by them. Society was not only a comfort to him ; it was a necessity. “ The strong will and prevailing energy, so prominent in him in other respects, were equally evident in his reli- gious experiences His purpose to serve God, like every other resolution which he made, was strong and unyield- ing. Though the effect of the skepticism which poisoned his early youth was never lost, it never broke his purpose to serve God. I have been often greatly touched as lie has disclosed to me how sorely he was tempted to doubt and deny God and the Bible. Everything was dark to him at times, and I believe he would repeatedly have sunk in utter despondency, had not his deep, underlying purpose to serve God held him up and borne him forward. He clung to this like a drowning man to a strong cable. “ So, also, his resolution to study for the ministry, and then to become a missionary, was strong and permanent. I do not believe he ever abandoned either of them for a moment, after they were once formed. The influence of friends, or the hopes held out to him in other directions, never swerved him a particle from those resolves. In everything it might be said of him : What he willed, he strongly willed. “ The Christian ministry accorded with many of his natural tastes and preferences ; but he had no natural inclination to the life of a missionary. I do not think he ever regretted his decision to go abroad ; but he went with no romantic expectations. He was not insensible to the difficulties and the trials before him ; but he calmly resolved to face them all and endure them all. He was ready to spend and be spent in his Master’s service.” His pastor at Danbury, while he was principal of the Danbury Institute, speaks as follows of the impression left by a comparatively short acquaintance : “ He threw him- PR. PERKINS. 407 self, with all the ardor and enthusiasm that character- ized his subsequent carder, into a home missionary enter- prise, with which we were identified in one of the old towns of Connecticut. I ardently loved and admired him as a man, a Christian, and a missionary of the Cross. He attached to himself all that drank in the spirit of his Master. He was generous and self-sacrificing to a fault — 4 counting not his life dear unto him.’ Yet he was inde- pendent and fearless in the discharge of his duty. His life was literally filled up with usefulness. I have been amazed to see how much he crowded into the briefest interval. 44 To my mind, he was the true missionary. He more resembled Ignatius Loyola in the enthusiasm with which he prosecuted his work, than any missionary of modern times.” Rev. Dr. Perkins, after the narrative of Dr. Lobdell’s sickness in his house at Oroomiah, which has been inserted in a former chapter, thus proceeds : 44 His ardent disposi- tion and wonderful activity led him to apply himself to labor too soon and too vigorously after his confinement by sickness. I do not remember ever to have known a more inquiring, active mind, one more eager in the pur- suit of knowledge on almost every subject. He darted, like the airy bee, from flower to flower in the vast and novel field opened before him in Persia, culling a thought here, and there a fact that might be useful to himself or others in future life. His inquiries embraced a very wide range. He was at once theologian and antiquarian, philologist and naturalist, and, most of all, missionary. Had his life been spared, he would have greatly distinguished himself, particularly as an Oriental and antiquarian scholar. 44 He was also skillful and indefatigable in his medical practice, in which his sympathizing, benevolent nature never allowed him to resist or neglect the cries of the 408 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. suffering, which were almost constantly ringing in his ears. “ The crowning charm of his very estimable character, and that which most of all won our affections, was his sim- ple, ardent, child-like piety, his overflowing love to the dear Saviour, who had purchased him, a lost sinner, with his own precious blood, and to whom he felt that he owed all things. That dying love he delighted to magnify and proclaim. A large measure of that love imparted to him, made him so lovely in life, so happy in sickness, and triumphant in death. “ Ilis visit to Oroomiah was one of the sunny spots in our missionary pilgrimage, on which we shall ever love to look back in the lively hope of ere long meeting that clear younger missionary brother, and other loved ones gone before us, in heaven.” His much beloved associate in missionary labor, Rev. D. W. Marsh, has furnished with his graphic pen a sketch of the life and character of Dr. Lobdell, which has just come to hand, and which, to avoid repetition, must be somewhat abridged. Had it been received at an earlier day, it might, perhaps, have been incorporated with the narrative ; but the reader will not regret to go rapidly over the doctor’s missionary life again, under such an accomplished guide. “My entire acquaintance with Dr. Lobdell was upon mission ground. He came out in 1852. At that time, I was on my way to America. Between Aleppo and Lataki- yeh, Rev. Mr. Ford and I traveled all day in a most violent storm to meet Dr. Lobdell ; but we missed him, which deferred our acquaintance till May, 1858. Dr. Lobdell had then been a year in Mosul. I took a house which so joined his, that we could communicate without going into the street. Our families were thrown constantly together. Often after our meals were cooked, we had the common stock brought to one table, and sat down together. In MR. MARSII. 409 going from his study to the dispensary, which was in my outer court, lie must pass through the inner court. I can see him now, — his hat, his coat, his cane ; the tall form and slight stoop as he walked. “ The sick were always about him, Moslems, Christians, and Jews. It is difficult to say whether wealthy howajees and powerful aghas , or the very poor, would be most assuming and impertinent in their demands, or least grateful. There were pleasant exceptions ; but patience and kindness were severely taxed, and almost never failed. He was very happy in his intercourse with all classes. “ Having abundant opportunities among the sick and their friends, to preach the gospel, he was very faithful. Few persons came into contact with him without having their consciences addressed. This he did in a way that won their good will, and left the impression that he was their friend. “ Often have I entered his study and found him sur- rounded by a company of ten, twelve, or twenty. His mode of argument was peculiar. He had rare power of forcing his opponent to hold the laboring oar. He often tested logic by asking, ‘How do you prove that?’ This simple question often utterly silenced some voluble empty- head. It was timed, and put with a good-nature that precluded caption. Like the delicate stroke of a rapier, it turned aside the enemy’s deadliest thrust. “ Soon after I came to Mosul, Dr. Lobdell, by advice of the Mosul station, started for Oroomiah, to spend the summer. I saw him well on his way, riding out fifteen miles to Bartulli. He commonly rode at a gallop, either sending his baggage before him, or leaving it to follow. The sick flocked around him as he dismounted. “ He proceeded to Oroomiah by Arbeel and Ravendouz. During that journey, two things made an indelible im- pression. Ever after, he had an aversion to the savage 35 410 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. nature of the Koords. He would often contrast their rugged sullenness with the good-natured treachery of the Arabs, Nor did he ever forget the heavenly atmosphere of the missionary circle at Oroomiah. He returned from Oroomiah to Mosul in September, 1853, through the sub- lime mountains of Jeloo and Tekhoma in company with Messrs. Coan and Rhea of the Nestorian mission. Dur- ing his absence, we kept acquainted with him by a con- stant succession of letters. After his return, we were once more thrown side by side. He began again very actively the practice of medicine. His study was fre- quented as before. Crowds of from twenty to seventy came to the dispensary. “ I was impressed with his ceaseless activity. He was almost constantly reading, or writing, or studying. He took no small interest in literary questions. He traced the route of Xenophon, and followed Alexander to the great battle-field near Arbela. He procured coins and antiques for his Alma Mater. He pondered the questions started by Layard’s discoveries. He questioned all classes upon every topic likely to throw light upon biblical in- quiry or Oriental customs. He cross-questioned Jews as to their traditions or interpretations, and Moslems who came for medicine as to the succession of pashas, the age of the city, or their belief and customs. He always had large note-books on his desk, and a small one in his pocket. He v r as gathering a large store of facts. “He was diligent in his profession. The Moslems said that he exhausted good works, and left them nothing to do. He frequently visited the sick, rich and poor, in dis- tant quarters of the town. “ Before medicine was prescribed at the dispensary, a portion of scripture w r as read and explained, and a prayer offered. As Moslems formed the larger part of his au- dience, upon his return from Oroomiah, his mind was much exercised upon the question, ‘ Ought we, in the pres- TRE ACHING CHRIST TO MOSLEMS. 411 ence of Moslems, to risk declaring the entire plan of salvation ? 5 It is a question that might well lead to dif- ferent views. When lie found that Mr. Williams and my- self were deliberately resolved to follow the dictates of our consciences, and not withhold from Moslems the counsel of God, he was delighted. We all felt (as we were warned), that there might be some danger. We knew that there were passions about us sleeping, that might become as wild as those which nearly swept the English from the Presidency of Bengal. Sometimes, as Christ was proclaimed the Son of God, and the only Saviour of man, a bigoted Moslem would rise and go out, and, as report said, curse us when well out of hearing. Often would Moslems listen with riveted attention, assent- ing aloud to statements, till their thoughts were irresistibly directed to Christ, when, at times, they would manifest an instant revulsion, at others, a reluctant fascination. The reflex influence upon Christians was very important. They felt that we were in earnest. Papists and Jacobites often trembled, and begged us not to preach any more in the presence of Moslems. During all this time, Dr. Lobdell’s convictions of duty grew stronger and stronger. We took turns in preaching. If ever I presented the truth in Jesus with more than usual clearness, he was almost sure to express his delight afterwards. Soon the change was so great in the city, that all classes began to dare to admit to Moslems that Christ is the Son of God. Before this time, a Christian had always equivocated or denied his Lord. In this matter, Dr. Lobdell, who, as a physician, was called peculiarly to meet it, manifested truly a martyr spirit. Rather than withhold the gospel, he preferred to risk his life. “Dr. Lobdell usually enjoyed an overflow of health and spirits. He is to our minds indelibly associated with his horse and cane. He carried his cane while riding as well as walking. He bought, for twenty-six dollars, what 412 MEMOIR OF LORDELL. proved to be a very fine Arab horse. That fleet animal and the fresh air outside the city walls, were his refuge for health from the close fever-dens of r many of his pa- tients. The exhilaration of the change was always de- lightful. But for it he would probably have been earlier in his grave. He was a bold and even a reckless rider. We often raced on fleet horses. Neither roughness, or rocks, or gullies would deter that horse or his rider. I well remember one day when we were racing, and came to slippery ground. I drew rein : he plunged on, when his horse slipj^ed, and turned a complete somerset. He was thrown a rod or more in advance. I came up in much anxiety for his neck ; but horse and rider rose from the mud without serious harm. From that time, a com- plete change took place. He rode fast still, but always with due care. “In the spring of 1854, after the first annual meeting of the Assyrian mission, Dr. Lobdell and myself were ap- pointed to go to Diarbekr, and assist the brethren in deciding several important questions. Mr. Dunmore and Mr. and Mrs. Walker were returning to that station, and we formed a large party through the desert. We had two Arab guides. Well do I remember his questioning those Arabs as to black-mail, the pedigree of their horses, and other matters that would interest the sons of the desert. We all, even to the lady, tried once riding upon the camel. He was full of inquiry, note-book in hand, at Nisibin, and the ruins of Dara, and the Saracenic castle which crowns the mountain of Mardin. He hurried back to Mosul, to wait upon Mrs. Williams, and attend her last hours during that mournful last attempt to save her life by a journey to Oroomiah. “ In the fall of that year, plans ripened, which had been gradually forming in his mind, for a summer residence at Deira, near Amadieh. It would have thrown our mission into constant summer contact with the Nestorians, and IIIS MONUMENT. 413 necessitated our learning the Syriac language. lie en- tered into it with great zeal ; and although less sanguine as to its healthiness, I consented to join him in commenc- ing the trial. On our way, accompanied by Mrs. Marsh, we visited Sheikh Adi, at the time of the Yezidee festival. Dr. Lobdell, as usual, manifested his unbounded spirit of intelligent inquiry. On our return, one scene is indelibly impressed upon the mind of Mrs. Marsh and my own, which occurred at a mountain pass. The Doctor had rid- den on. As we followed, creeping along a precipice over- hanging a torrent, we caught sight of him down under an eternal wall of rock, sitting upon a boulder, and breaking up minerals. His favorite horse was standing content in mid-stream. That mountain scene is to us his monu- ment. “We do not deny, nor would we conceal, that Dr. Lob- dell had faults. We love him as a rare man, one of a thousand ; but let no young disciple imagine that in Dr. Lobdell was found immaculate and unattainable perfec- tion. His faults were nearly, if not quite all, the faults of youth.” After specifying particularly that skeptical tendency which regarded almost every point, even of practice, as an open question, and that constitutional, and perhaps, more or less ambitious, restlessness which made him too careless of over-work, — faults which are sufficiently apparent to every reader of these pages, — Mr. Marsh proceeds : “ I mention these blemishes as they seemed to me a part of the history of a jewel of the purest water. In the hands of the great lapidary, they would have grown constantly less. Now that this gem adorns the Saviour’s vesture, there is no flaw or spot upon it. “I have only to allude to his journey to Baghdad and Babylon. The Oroomiah mission chose him to represent their critical situation with reference to the Persian gov- ernment to Mr. Murray, the English ambassador to Persia, 35 * 414 MEMOIR OF LOBDELL. then to arrive at Baghdad, on his way to his post. While waiting for Mr. Murray, he visited Babylon, the first American missionary to do it, and possibly the first Amer- ican. He was received as the guest of the Residency, and treated in a very handsome manner. Dr. Lobdell was very well adapted for this work. The Nestorian mission owed many future favors, and, perhaps, the visit of Mr. Murray to Oroomiah, to this labor of love on the part of Dr. Lobdell. He always had an affectionate re- gard for the members of that mission, and in conducting our English prayer-meeting, it was his aim to elevate the tone of piety in our circle to the high standard there. “Now he has gone to an atmosphere purer, to a society holier, to the assembly of the first-born, the goodly com- pany of martyrs, apostles, and prophets. He is with Stoddard now, not on a favored mountain of earth. He mingles with our heavenly friends. That unquenchable spirit, year after year, in blessed company soars to loftier heights. He is obeying the voice, ‘Come up higher. 5 When shall we be with him ? 55 4 ^ouo^y^. Ot ^ A ’ ,d