THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY •391 M3 ” ■: ■ ■ II':- ■ .r;; V https^//archive.org/details/civilcostumeofenOOmart ■ . J - ' ® c. T O HIS EOYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, THIS VOLUME OF ENGLISH COSTUME, IS, WITH GRACIOUS PERMISSION, MOST EESPECTFULLY DEDICATED B Y HIS EOYAL HIGHNESS’S OEEDIENT AND HUJMBLE SERVANTS, CHARLES AND LEOPOLD MARTIN. LIST OF PLATES. Rei(/ns. 1 . 2. "William I. . 8 . 4. "William II. . 5. Henry II. G. 7. Eichard I. . 8 . 9, John 10 . 11. Henry III. . 12 . 13. Edward I. II. 14. — 15. Edward III. 10 . 17. 18. 19. Eichard II. . 20 . Subject. Title Page. Male Costume ..... Female Costume .... Male Costume ..... Henry II. ..... Eleanor, Queen of Henry II. . Eichard I. Berengaria, Queen of Eichard I. King John . . . . . Isabel, third wife of King John Henry III. ..... Aveline, Countess of Lancaster Male Costume ..... Female Costume . . . . Eobert Branch, IMayor of Lynn, 1349 "William Delapole, father to the first Earl of Suffolk "William, second son of Edward III. Blanch de la Tour, daughter of Edward III. IMale Costume ..... Female Costume .... Author it u. Bayeux Tai>estry. Cotton 1\ISS. Nero, C. I"V^. Cotton MSS. Nero, C. IV. Effigy at Fontevraud, in Stothard's Monumental Effigies. Effigy at Fontevraud, Stothard. Effigy at Fontevraud, Stothard. From the remains of her tomb in the Abbey of L’Esjian, Mans. Effigy in AVorcester Cathedral. Effigy at Fontevraud, Stothard. Tomb in AVestminster Abbey; back- ground figure, Eoyal MS. 19. C. I. Effigy in AVestminster Abbey ; back- ground figure. Cotton AISS. Nero, D. I. Sloane AIS. 340. Sloane AIS. 3983. Brass-work in St. Alargaret’s Church, Lynn, Norfolk. Cough’s Sep\ilchral Alonuments. Effigy at York. Alonument in the Chapel of St. Edward AA'estminster Abbey ; background figure, AIS. of the time. Eoyal AIS. 20. B. VI. Eoyal AIS. 16. G. 5. LIST OF PLATES. Reigns. Subject. Authority. 21. Henry IV. k V. Male Costume . . Montfaucon. 22. Henry IV. . Lady de Tliori)e .... Ashwelthorpe Church, Norfolk. 23. Henry V. . Lady and Page .... Royal MS. 15. D. 3. 24. Henry VI. . Male Costume ..... Harleian MSS. 2278. 25. Female Costume .... IMontfaucon, and Royal IMS. 15. E. 0. fob 450. 20. Edward IV. Male Costume . . Cotton MS. Nero, D. IX. 27. . Female Costume .... jMontfaucon. 28. Richard III. ]\Iale Costume ..... Royal MS. 15. E. 2. dated 1483. 29. Female Costume .... Royal IMS. 10. F. 2. 30. Henry VII. . Male Costume . . . . . Harleian IMS. 4425. 31. Henry VII. . Elizabeth, Queen of Henry VII. Holbein’s picture of the Royal Family in 1537 ; background figure, Harleian IMS. 4425. 32. Henry VIII. Charles Brandon, Earl of Suffolk From a Portrait of the time, engraved by Vertue. 33. Sir Thomas Gresham From Holbein’s picture at IMercer’s Hall. 34. Female Costume .... Holbein. 35. Margaret Roper .... From Holbein’s picture of the Family of Sir Thomas IMore. 36. Edward VI. Habit of King Edward, worn in 1550 Holbein. 37. King Edward VI From Holbein’s Picture at Christ’s Hospital. 38. Elizabeth Male Costume ..... / From a scarce print of the time ; back- ground figure, from the portrait of the Earl of Leicester engraved in Lodge’s Portraits. 39. Habit of a wealthy Merchant of London, 1588 Gasper Rutz. 40. Lady in the Court of Queen Eliza- beth, 1559 From the Procession of Queen Elizabeth to Hunsdon House. 41. James I. James, IMarquis of Hamilton . From a picture by Mark Garrard, en- graved in Lodge’s Portraits ; back- ground figure Tobias Hobson, from Caulfield’s Remarkable Persons. LIST OF PLATES. Picifjns. Subject. Author it 1 /. 42. James I. Frances, Duchess of Richmond From a scarce print of the time. 43. Charles I. William Villiers, Viscount Gran- dison A^'andyck. 44. Anne, Countess of Chesterfield A^andyck. 45. Sir Thomas Wharton A’andyck. 4(5. Female Dresses, 1641 Hollar. 47. Commonwealth . A Royalist ..... From a drawing in the British Aluseum. 48. Charles II. when young . A^andyck. 40. Charles II. . Slingsby Bethell, Esq., one of the From a scarce print in the British Sheriffs of London in 1680 Aluseum. 50. jMale Costume ..... From a print of the time. 51. The Duchess of Clevelaml Sir P. Lely. 52. James II. and William III. ..... From a portrait of AVilliam HI. dated 1694 ; background figure from an en- graving by Faithorne, of Robert, Earl of Ailesbury, temp. James II. 53. AVilliam III. Queen Mary ..... From a jirint after a iiortrait by ATsscher. 54. Anne . Matthew Prior ..... From a portrait in the collection of Eng- lish Portraits, British Aluseum. 55. Female Costume .... From a print of the time. 56. George I. Right Hon. James Craggs From a portrait by Sir G. Kneller ; figure to the right from a portrait of Colley Cibber. 57. George I. k II. Aharious Dresses, male and female . From i)rints of the time. 58. Costumes ...... From several views of Amuxhall Gardens, 1751. 59. George III. . A^arious Female Dresse.s, from 1760 From Ladies’ Pocket Books, Almanacks, to 1771 etc. 60. George III. k IV. A^arious Alale Dress, from 1787 to From Portraits, etc., etc. AVilliam IV. k 1841 Victoria. 61. A’arious Female Dresses, from 1786 From Pocket Books, Ladies’ Magazines, to 1841 etc. /r ^CKf'&iJTn^ tC6^ yy7iyci(;^‘- y'ja^Ccm. -yfC^y^ K^ Y&nj . t lY . 3 4 Jl^fynoy //^ 5 4 tecmoz 2 ■ 710 ^ // a ■ !^i'cAa/r.oi 'f '4^ 6'^i^ a£ 'y&?7Ce/2/iau(£ . 7 '>f {oTnCr s I 0-An. Aam /L em. ,0 r 10 12 0 ^' of (/l£ il/rrU, cfloaou. a f 8 i an d/rnnimoM ,■> ■ - A' ^ V yiohint JS^iouick K^iiziy-o\ oj ^oiuxtMi /// ^lom ali'ux/^ u>c'iA utl ft ■^‘'tia/yccfieCs ^'fo'(ffA 10 ^iim (f'du^a^ $ ^ ^o-u^^ ^J^ciTiiMTieoi^j IS f. V V ;^6ccynioC cm. oj^ S / // X4. Ptoxi, aC^cycA^ 3^A ale la STear; (fduei(/ ~ ^^02/-■ -■f-'. if •fi • / ■» >. A, I V. . > >■ V , * •-.r ^ m ■ - " ■ V*’- A.- .'»v ■ ■*'< 1 i y I T’ ; V ■ • ycnu 2 /6 , iiii AeacCO^^-'i Ok Sffc^af »u ^ ^ 20 c£z/](^ olt ‘^hox^ze ^^:f^>MKljthj?t^ /fkuMA -..^e^^crlA - . ) t - • «. ' \ <% - i^^'‘ 24 ly/L 0 /c? 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