J48th 1903 HvVjW •&> OF .THE UNIVCRS ITY or ILLINOIS 823 J 48 th 1903 < * \JLsV\X& O/ ’ 'T/i. & .? y ’£> . -7 /To 3 '■ I Jerome K. Jerome Ubree flften in a JGoat ®e J. ft. Jerome Chicago /ID. a. ©onobue & Co. 407*420 Dearborn St. J V Has THREE MEN IN A BOAT (TO SAY NOTHING OP THE DOG) CHAPTER I. There were four of us—George, and William Samuel Harris, and myself, and Montmorency. We were sitting in my room, smoking and talking about how bad we were—bad from a medical point of view I mean, of course. We were all feeling seedy, and we were getting quite nervous about it. Harris said he felt suck extraordinary fits of giddiness come over him at times, that he hardly knew what he was doing; and then George said that he had fits of giddiness too, and hardly knew what he was doing. With me, it was my liver that was out of order. I knew it was my liver that was out of order, because I had just been reading a patent liver-pill circular, in which were detailed the various symptoms by which a man could tell when his liver was cut of order. I had them all. 6 Shvce #Xjeu itt a It is a most extraordinary thing, but I never read a patent medicine advertisement without be¬ ing impelled to the conclusion that I am suffering from the particular disease therein dealt with, in its most virulent form. The diagnosis seems in every case to correspond exactly with all the sen¬ sations that I have ever felt. I remember going to the British Museum one day to read up the treatment for some slight ail¬ ment of which I had a touch—hay fever, I fancy it was. I got down the book, and read all I came to read; and then, in an unthinking moment, I idly turned the leaves, and began to indolently study diseases generally. I forget which was the first distemper I plunged into—some fearful, de¬ vastating scourge, I know—and, before I had glanced half down the list of “premonitory symp¬ toms, v it was borne in upon me that I had fairly got it. I sat for a while, frozen with horror; and then in the listlessness of despair, I again turned over the pages. I came to typhoid fever—read the symptoms—discovered that I had typhoid fever, must have had it for months without knowing it —wondered what else I had got; turned up St. Vitus’s Dance—found, as I had expected, that I had that too—began to get interested in my case, and determined to sift it to the bottom, and so g&ro in a |£krat. 1 started alphabetically—read up ague, and learned that I was sickening for it, aijd that the acute stage would commence in about another fort¬ night. Bright’s disease, I was relieved to find, I had only in a modified form, and, so far as that was concerned, I might live for years. Cholera T had, with severe complications; and diphtheria I seemed to have been born with. I plodded con¬ scientiously through the twenty-six letters, and the only malady I could conclude I had not got was housemaid’s knee. I felt rather hurt about this at first; it seemed somehow to be a sort of slight. Why hadn’t I got housemaid’s knee? Why this invidious res¬ ervation? After a while, however, less grasping feelings prevailed. I reflected that I had every other known malady in the pharmacology, and grew less selfish, and determined to do without housemaid’s knee. Gout, in its most malignant stage, it woufd appear, had seized me without my being aware of it; and zymosis I had evidently been suffering with from boyhood. There were no more diseases after zymosis, so I concluded there was nothing else the matter with me. I sat and pondered. I thought what an inter¬ esting case I must be from a medical point of view, what an acquisition I should be to a class! Students would have no need to “walk the hospi- 8 £Tx\*cc U&etx itx a goat. tals,’ 7 if they had me. I was a hospital in myself. All they need do would be to walk round me, and, after that, take their diploma. Then I wondered how long I had to live. I tried to examine myself. I felt my pulse. 1 could not at first feel any pulse at all. Then, all of a sudden, it seemed to start off. I pulled out my watch and timed it. I made a hundred and forty-seven to the minute. I tried to feel my heart. I could not feel my heart. It had stopped beating. I have since been induced to come to the opinion that it must have been there all the time, and must have been beating, but I cannot account for it. I patted myself all over my front, from what I call my waist up to my head, and I went a bit round each side, and a little way up the back. But I could not feel or hear anything. I tried to look at my tongue. I stuck it out as far as ever it would go, and I shut one eye, and tried to examine it with the other. I could only see the tip, and the only thing that I could gain from that was to feel more certain than before that I had scarlet fever. I had walked into that reading-room a happy, healthy man. I crawled out a decrepit wreck. I went to my medical man. He is an old chum of mine, and feels my pulse, and looks at my tongue, and talks about the weather, all for noth- gfcvxe gfcm in a goal. 9 mg, when I fancy I’m ill; so I thought I would do him a good turn by going to him now. “What a doctor wants,” I said, “is practice. He shall have me. He will get more practice out of me than out of seventeen hundred of your ordinary, com¬ monplace patients, with only one or two diseases each.” So I went straight up and saw him, and he said: “Well, what’s the matter with you?” I said: “I will not take up your time, dear boy, with telling you what is the matter with me. Life is brief, and you might pass away before I had fin¬ ished. But I will tell you what is not the matter with me. I have not got housemaid’s knee. Why I have not got housemaid’s knee, I cannot tell you; but the fact remains that I have not got it.. Everything else, however, I have got.” And I told him how I came to discover it all. Then he opened me and looked down me, and clutched hold of my wrist, and then he hit me over the chest when I wasn’t expecting it—a cowardly thing to do, I call it—and immediately afterward butted me with the side of his head. After that, he sat down and wrote out a prescription, and folded-it up and gave it me, and I put it in my pocket and went out. I did not open it. I took it to the nearest chem- 10 gkxiu gtm in a gjtesxt ist’s, and handed it in. The mum res4 it, and then handed it back. He said he didn’t keep it. I said: “You are a chemist?” “I am a chemist. If I was a co-operative stare and family hotel combined, I might be able t* oblige you. Being only a chemist haaspors me,*' I read the prescription. It ran: “i lb. beefsteak, with i pt bitter beer every 6 hours. i ten-mile walk every morning. I bed at 11 sharp every night And don’t stuff up your head with things you don’t understand.” I followed the directions, with the happy result —speaking for myself—that my life was pre¬ served and is still going on. In the present instance, going back to the liver- pill circular, I had the symptoms, beyond all mis¬ take, the chief among them being “a general dis¬ inclination to work of any kind.” What I suffer in that way no tongue can tell. From my earliest infancy I have been a martyr to it. As a boy, the disease hardly ever left me for a day. They did not know, then, that it was my gto&e H&etx in a goat. 11 layer. Medical science was in a far less advanced state than now, and they used to put it down laziness. “Why, you skulking little devil, you, 7 ’ they would say, “get up and do something for your living, can’t you?”—not knowing, of course, that I was ill. And they didn’t give me pills; they gave me clumps on the side of the head. And, strange as it may appear, those clumps on the head often cured me—for the time being. I have known one dump on the head have more effect upon my fiver, and make me feel more anxious to go straight away then and there and do what was wanted to be done, without further loss of time, than a whole box of pills does now. You know it often is so—those simple, old- fashioned remedies are sometimes more effica¬ cious than all the dispensary stuff. We sat there for half an hour, describing to each other our maladies. I explained to George and William Harris how I felt when I got up in the morning, and W’illiam Harris told us how he felt when he went to bed; and George stood on the hearth-rug and gave us a clever and powerful piece of acting, illustrative of how he felt in the aight 12 ghvee 2*%ctt in a gloat. George fancies he is ill; but there's never any¬ thing really the matter with him, you know. At this point Mrs. Poppets knocked at the door to know if we were ready for supper. We smiled sadly at one another and said we supposed we had better try to swallow a bit. Harris said a little something in one’s stomach often kept the disease in check, and Mrs. Poppets brought the tray in and we drew up to the table and toyed with a little steak and onions and some rhubarb tart. I must have been very weak at the time; be¬ cause I know, after the first half-hour or so, I seemed to take no interest whatever in my food—• an unusual thing for me—and I didn't want any cheese. This duty done, we refilled our glasses, lit our pipes, and resumed the discussion upon our state of health. What it was that was actually the mat¬ ter with us, we none of us could be sure of, but the unanimous opinion was that it—whatever it was—had been brought bn by overwork. * “What we want is rest,” said Harris. “Rest and a complete change,” said George. “The overstrain upon our brains has produced a general depression throughout the system Change of scene and absence of the necessity for thought will restore the mental equilibrium.” George has a cousin, who is usually described 'gftKM *XXm in a goat. 18 in the charge-sheet as a medical student, so that he naturally has a somewhat family-physicianary way of putting things. I agreed with George, and suggested that we should seek out some retired and old-world spot, far from the maddening crowd, and dream away a sunny week among its drowsy lanes—some half- forgotten nook, hidden away by the fairies, out of reach of the noisy world—some quaint-perched eyrie on the cliffs of Time, from whence the surging waves of the nineteenth century would sound far off and faint. Harris said he thought it would be humpy. He said he knew the sort of place I meant; where everybody went to bed at eight o’clock, and you could’t get a Referee for love or money, and had to walk ten miles to get your baccy. “No,” said Harris, “if you want rest and change you can't beat a sea trip." I objected to the sea trip strongly. A sea trip does you good when you are going to have a couple of months, but, for a week, it is wicked. You start on Monday with the idea implanted in your bosom that you are going to enjoy your¬ self. You wave an airy adieu to the bovs on shore, light your biggest pipe, and swagger about the deck as if you were Captain Cook, Sir Fran¬ cis Drake, and Christopher Columbus all rolled 14 gTxtteje pCett in a Jlcrat. into one. On Tuesday you wish you hadn’t come. On Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday you wi3-fe you were dead. On Saturday you are able to swal¬ low a little beef tea and to sit up on deck and an¬ swer with a wan, sweet smile when kind-hearted people ask you how you feel now. On Sunday you begin to walk about again and take solid food. And on Monday morning, as, with your bag and umbrella in your hand, you stand by the gunwale, waiting to step ashore, you begin to thoroughly like it. I remember my brother-in-law going for a short sea trip once for the benefit of his health. He took a return berth from London to Liver - fx>ol, and when he got to Liverpool the only thing he was anxious about was to sell that return ticket. It was offered round the town at a tremendous reduction, so I am told, and was eventually sold for eighteenpence to a bilious-looking youth who had just been advised by his medical men to go to the sea-side and take exercise. “Seaside!” said my brother-in-law, pressing the ticket affectionately into his hand; “why, you’ll have enough to last you a lifetime; and as for exercise! why, you’ll get more exercise sitting down on that ship than you would turning somer¬ saults on dry land.” i gtuw gK-jcn in a 15 He himself—my brother-in-law—came back by tram. He said the Northwestern Railway was healthy enough for him. Another fellow I knew went for a week’s voy¬ age round the coast, and before they started the steward came to him to ask whether he would pay for each meal as he had it or arrange beforehand for the whole series. The steward recommended the latter course, as it would come so much cheaper. He said they would do him for the whole week at two pounds five. He said for breakfast there would be fish, followed by a grill Lunch was at one, and con¬ sisted of four courses. Dinner at six—soup, fish, entree, joint, poultry, salad, sweets, cheese, and dessert. And a light meat supper at ten. My friend thought he would close on the two- pound-five job (he is a hearty eater), and did so. Lunch came just as they were off Sheerness. He didn’t feel so hungry as he thought he should, and so contented himself with a bit of broiled beef and some strawberries and cream. He pondered a good deal during the afternoon, and at one time it seemed to him that he had been eating nothing but broiled beef for weeks, and at other times it seemed that he must have been living on straw¬ berries and cream for years. Neither the beef nor the strawberries and cream 16 Qlxxzz gtXm irx I said I generally preferred to sleep inside a bed. Harris said it was old George said: “What time shall I wake you fellows^ Harris said: “Seven-” I said: “No—six,” because I wanted to write some let¬ ters. Harris and I had a bit of a row over it, but at last split the difference, and said half-past six. “Wake us at 6.30, George/’ we said George made no answer, and we found, on going over, that he had been asleep for some time; so we placed the bath where he could tum¬ ble into it on getting out in the morning, and went to bed ourselves. CHAPTER V. It was Mrs. Poppets that woke me up next morning. She said: “Do you know that it’s nearly nine o’clock, sir?” “Nine o’what?" I cried, starting up. 60 'jgUxzz gXm in a gtoxt. “Nine o’clock,” she replied, through t4ie key¬ hole. “I thought you was a-oversleepmg your¬ selves.” I woke Harris, and told him. He said: “I thought you wanted to get up at six?” “So I did,” I answered; “why didn’t you wake me?” “How could I wake you. when you didn’t wake me?” he retorted. “Now we shan’t get on the water till after twelve. I wonder you take the trouble to get up at all.” “Urn,” I replied, “lucky for you that I do. If I hadn’t woke you, you’d have lain there for the whole fortnight.” We snarled at one another in this strain for the next few minutes, when we were interrupted by a defiant snore from George. It reminded us, for the first time since our being called, of his ex¬ istence. There he lay—the man who had wanted to know what time he should wake us—on his back, with his mouth wide open, and b : .s knees stuck up. I don’t know why it should be, I am sure; but the sight of another man asleep in bed when I am up, maddens me. It seems so shocking to see the precious hours of a man’s life—the price¬ less moments that will never come back to him again—being wasted in mere brutish sleep. glxvjes pun in a goat. 61 There was George, throwing away in hideous sloth the inestimable gift of time; his valuable life, every second of which he would have to ac¬ count for hereafter, passing away from him, un¬ used. He might have been up stuffing himself with eggs and bacon, irritating the dog, or flirt¬ ing with the slavey, instead of sprawling there, sunk in soul-clogging oblivion. It was a terrible thought Harris and I ap¬ peared to be struck by it at the same instant. We determined to save him, and, in this noble re¬ solve, our own dispute was forgotten. We flew across and slung the clothes off him, and Harris landed him one with a slipper, and I shouted in his ear, and he awoke. “Wasermarrer?” he observed, sitting up. “Get up, you fat-headed chunk!” roared Har¬ ris. “It’s quarter to ten.” “What!” he shrieked, jumping out of bed into the bath; “—Who the thunder put this thing here ?” We told him he must have been a fool not to see the bath. We finished dressing, and, when it came to the extras, we remembered that we had packed the tooth-brushes and the brush and comb (that tooth-brush of mine will be the death of me, I know), and we had to go down-stairs, and fish 62 35 tax c T&Lzn in a l&cKsfc. them out of the bag. And when we had done that George wanted the shaving tackle. We toki him that he would have to go without shaving that morning, as we weren’t going to unpack that bag again for him, nor for any one like him. He said: “Don’t be absurd. How can I go into the dty like this?” It was certainly rather rough on the city, but what cared we for human suffering? As Harris said, in his common, vulgar way, the city would have to lump it We went down-stairs to breakfast Montmor¬ ency had invited two other dogs to come and see him off, and they were whiling away the time by fighting on the doorstep. We calmed them with an umbrella, and sat down to chops and cold beei Harris said: “The great thing is to make a good breakfast,” and he started with a coup*e of chops, saying that he would take these while they were hot, as the beef could wait George got hold of the paper, and read us out the boating fatalities; and the weather forecast, which latter prophesied “rain, cold, wet to fine” (whatever more than usually ghastly thing is weather that may be), “occasional local thunder storms, east wind, with general depression over Store pt m in a ^loat. 9$ the Midland Counties (London and Channel). Bar. falling.” I do think that, of all the silly, irritating tom- foolishness by which we are plagued, this “wea¬ ther forecast” fraud is about the most aggravat¬ ing. It “forecasts” precisely what happened yes¬ terday or the day before, and precisely the oppo¬ site of what is going to happen to-day. I remember a holiday of mine being complete¬ ly ruined one late autumn by our paying atten¬ tion to the weather report of the local newspaper. “Heavy showers, with thunder-storms, may be expected to-day,” it would say on Monday, and so we would give up our picnic, and stop indoors all day, waiting for the rain. And people would pass the house, going off in wagonettes and coaches as jolly and merry as could be, the sun shining out, and not a cloud to be seen. “Ah!” we said, as we stood looking out at them through the window, “won’t they come home soaked!” And we chuckled to think how wet they were going to get, and came back and stirred the fire, and got our books, and aranged our specimens of seaweed and cockle shells. By twelve o’clock, with the sun pouring into the room, the heat be¬ came quite oppressive, and we wondered when 64 gfeueje in n those heavy showers and occasional thunder* storms were going to begin. “Ah! they’ll come in the afternoon, you’ll find,” we said to each other. “Oh, won’t those people get wet. What a lark!” At one o’clock the landlady would come in to ask if we weren’t going out, as it seemed such a lovely day. “No, no,” we replied, with a knowing chuckle, “not we. We don’t mean to get wet—no, no.” And when the afternoon was nearly gone, and still there was no sign of rain, we tried to cheer ourselves up with the idea that it would come down all at once, just as the people had started for home, and were out of the reach of any shel¬ ter, and that they would thus get more drenched than ever. But not a drop ever fell, and it fin¬ ished a grand day, and a lovely night after it. The next morning we would read, that it was going to be a “warm, fine to set-fair day; much heat;” and we would dress ourselves in flimsy things, and go out, and, half an hour after we had started, it would commence to rain hard, and a bit¬ terly cold wind would spring up, and both would keep on steadily for the whole day, and we would come home with colds and rheumatism all over us, and go to bed. The weather is a thing that is beyond me alto Qhvzz gbXcu in a goat. 65 gether. 1 never can understand it. The barom¬ eter is useless; it is as misleading as the news¬ paper forecast. There was one hanging up in a hotel at Oxford at which I was staying last spring, and, when I got there, it was pointing to “set fair.” It was simply pouring with rain outside, and had been all day; and I couldn’t quite make matters out. I tapped the barometer, and it jumped up and pointed to “very dry.” The Boots stopped as he was parsing and said he expected it meant to-morrow. I fancied that maybe it was thinking of the week before last, but Boots said, no, he thought not. I tapped it again the next morning, and it went up-still higher, and the rain came down fa:ter than ever. On Wednesday I went and hit it again, and the pointer went round toward “set fair,” “very dry,” and “much heat,” until it was stopped by the peg, and couldn’t go any further. It tried its best, but the instrument was built so that it couldn’t prophesy fine weather any harder than it did without breaking itself. It evidently wanted to go on, and prognosticate drought, and water, famine, and sunstroke, and simoons, and such things, but the peg prevented it, and it had to be content with pointing to the mere common¬ place “very dry.” 16 gfercs 2$tjcw in u gjcmSL Meanwhile the rain came down in a steady .v/rrent, and the lower part of the town was under water, owing to the river having overflowed. Boots said it was evident tha^ we were going to have a prolonged spell of grand weather some time, and read out a poem which was printed ever the top of the oracle, about ‘TfOng foretold, long last; Short notice, soon past/* The fine weather never came that summer. I expect that machine must have been referring to the following spring. Then there are those new styles of barometers, the long straight ones. I never can make head or tail of those. There is one side for ro A. M. yesterday, and one side for io A. M. today; but you can’t always get there as early as ten, you know. It rises or falls for rain and fine, with much or less wind, and one end is “Nly* and the other “Ely” (what’s Ely got to do with it?), and if you tap it, it doesn’t tell you anything. And you’ve got to correct it to sea-level, and reduce to Fahrenheit, and even then I don’t know the answer. But who wants to be foretold the weather? It is bad enough when it comes, without our hav- STxxtjcjc pbeu in a goat. 67 tng the misery of knowing about it beforehand. The prophet we like is the old man who, on the particularly gloomy-looking morning of some day when we particularly want it to be fine, looks round the horizon with a particularly knowing eye, and says “Oh, no, sir, I think it will clear up all right It will break all right enough, sir.” “Ah, he knows,” we say, as we wish him good morning and start off; “wonderful bow these old fellows can tell!” And we feel an affection for that man which is not at all lessened by the circumstances of its not clearing up, but continuing to rain steadily all day. “Ah, well,” we feel, “he did his best.” For the man that prophesies us bad weather, on the contrary, we entertain only bitter and re¬ vengeful thoughts. “Going to clear up, d’ye think?" we shout cheer¬ ily, as we pass. “Well, no, sir; I’m afraid it’s settled down for the day,” he replies, shaking his head. “Stupid old fool,” we mutter, “what’s he know about it?” And, if his portent proves correct, we come back feeling still more angry against him, and with a vague notion that, somehow or other, he has had something to do with it. Qlvcw Pm in a goat. it was too bright and sunny on this especial morning for George’s blood-curdling readings about “Bar. falling, atmospheric disturbance, passing in an oblique line over Southern Europe/’ and “pressure increasing,” to very much upset us; and so, finding that he could not make us wretched, and was only wasting his time, he sneaked the cigarette that I had carefully rolled up for myself, and went. Then Harris and I, having finished up the few things left on the table, carted out our luggage on to the doorstep, and waited for a cab. There seemed a good deal of luggage, when we put it all together. There was the Gladstone and the small handbag, and the two hampers, and a large roll of rugs, and some four or five over¬ coats and mackintoshes, and a few umbrellas, and then there was a melon by itself in a bag, be¬ cause it was too bulky to go in anywhere, and a couple of pounds of grapes in another bag, and a Japanese paper umbrella, and a frying-pan, which, being too long to pack, we had wrapped round with brown paper. It did look a lot, and Harris and I began to feel rather ashamed of it, though why we should be, I can’t see. No cab came by, but the street boys did, and got inter¬ ested in the show, apparently, and stopped. Biggs’s boy was the first to come round. Biggs gtajejc fpijett in a gxrat. OT- is our greengrocer, and his chief talent lies in securing the services of the most abandoned and unprincipled errand-boys that civilization has as yet produced. If anything more than usually vil¬ lainous in the boy-line crops up in our neighbor¬ hood, we know that it is Biggs’s latest. I was told that, at the time of the Great Coram Street mur¬ der, it was promptly concluded by our street that Biggs’s boy (for that period) was at the bottom of it, and had he not been able, in reply to the severe cross-examination, to which he was sub¬ jected by No. 19, when he called there for orders the morning after the crime (assisted by No. 2 i t who happened to be on the step at the time), to prove a complete alibi, it would have gone hard with him. I didn’t know Biggs’s boy at that time s but, from what I have seen of them since, I should not have, attached much importance to that alibi myself. Biggs’s boy, as I have said, came round the corner. He was evidently in a great hurry when he first dawned upon the vision, but, on catching sight of Harris and me, and Montmorency, and the things, he eased up and stared. Harris and I frowned at him. This might have wounded a more sensitive nature, but Biggs’s boys are not g as a rule, touchy. He came to a dead stop, a yard from our step, and leaning up against the 70 <£hvee iXTett in a IJmxt, rahiwgs, and selecting a straw to chew, fixed us with his eye. He evidently meant to see this thing out. In another moment the grocer’s boy passed on the opposite side of the street. Biggs’s boy hailed him: “Hi! ground floor o’ 42’s a-moving.” The grocer’s boy came across, and took up a position on the other side of the step. Then the young gentleman from the boot-shop stopped, and joined Biggs’s boy; while the empty-can su¬ perintendent from “The Blue Posts” took up an independent position on the curb. “They ain’t a-going to starve, are they?” said the gentleman from the boot-shop. “Ah! you’d want to take a thing or two with you,” retorted “The Blue Post,” “if you was a-go¬ ing to cross the Atlantic in a small boat.” “They ain’t a-going to cross the Atlantic,” struck in Bigg’s boy; “they’re a-going to find Stanley.” By this time quite a small crowd had collected, and people were asking each other what was the matter. One party (the young and giddy por¬ tion of the crowd) held that it was a wedding, * and pointed out Harris as the bridegroom; while the elder and more thoughtful among the popu- gtocje IpUtt in a goat. 71 lace inclined to the idea that it was a funeral and that I was probably the corpse’s brother. At last, an empty cab turned up (it is a street where, as a rule, and when they are not wanted, empty cabs pass at the rate of three a minute, and hang about, and get in your way), and packing ourselves and our belongings into it, and shoot¬ ing out a couple of Montmorency’s friends, who had evidently sworn never to forsake him, we drove away amidst the cheers of the crowd, Biggs’s boy shying a carrot after us for luck. We got to Waterloo at eleven, and asked where the eleven-five started from. Of course nobody knew; nobody at Waterloo ever does know where a train is going to start from, or where a train when it does start is going to, or anything about it. The porter who took our things thought it would go from number two platform, while an¬ other porter, with whom he discussed the ques¬ tion, had heard a rumor that it would go from number one. The station-master, on the other hand, was convinced it would start from the local. To put an end to the matter, we went upstairs, and asked the trafhc superintendent, and he told us that he had just met a man who said he had seen it at number three platform. We went to number three platform, but the authorities there said tha*- they rather thought that train was the Slxvce gAcu in a goat. Southampton express, or else the Windsor loop. But they were sure it wasn’t the Kingston train, though why they were sure it wasn’t they couldn’t say. Then our porter said he thought that must be it on the high-level platform; said he thought he knew the train. So we went to the high-level platform, and saw the engine-driver, and asked him if he was going to Kingston. He said he couldn’t say for certain, of course, but that he rather thought he was. Anyhow, if he wasn’t the 0:05 for Kingston, he said he was pretty con¬ fident he was the 9:32 for Virginia Water, or the 10 A. M. express for the Isle of Wight, or some¬ where in that direction, and we should all know when we got there. We slipped half-a-crown in¬ to his hand, and begged him to be the 11105 for Kingston. “Nobody will ever know, on this line,” we said, W what you are, or when you’re going. You know the way, you slip off quietly and go to Kings¬ ton.” “Well, I don’t know, gents,” replied the noble fellow, “but I suppose some train’s got to go to Kingston; and I’ll do it. Gimme the half-crown.” Thus we got to Kingston by the London and South-western Railway. We learnt, afterward, that the train we had 3JTxvjeje gXcix iw a gcrat. n come by was really the Exeter mail, and that they had spent hours at Waterloo looking for it, and nobody knew what had become of it. Oiu boat was waiting for us at Kingston just below bridge, and to it we wended our way, and round it we stored our luggage, and into ii we stepped. “Are you all right, sir?" said the man. “Right it is,” we answered; and with Harris aft the sculls and I at the tiller-lines, and Montmor¬ ency, unhappy and deeply suspicious, in the prow f out we shot on to the watets which, for a fort¬ night, were to be our home. CHAPTER VI. It was a glorious morning, late spring or early summer, as you care to take it, when the dainty sheen of grass and leaf is blushing to a deeper green; and the year seems like a fair young maid, trembling with strange, wakening pulses on the brink of womanhood. The quaint back streets of Kingston, where they came down to the water’s edge, looked quite picturesque in the flashing sunlight, the glinting *i?er with its drifting barges, the wooded tow» $fr*xe PCjcw in a ^xrat. 74 path, the trim-kept villas on the other side, Har¬ ris, in a red and orange blazer, grunting away at the sculls, the distant glimpses of the gray oid palace of the Tudors, all made a sunny picture, so bright but calm, so full of life, and yet so peace¬ ful, that, early in the day though it was, I felt my¬ self being dreamily lulled off into a musing fit. i I mused on Kingston, or “Kyningestun,” as it was once called in the days when Saxon “kinges” were crowned there. Great Caesar crossed the river there, and the Roman legions camped upon its sloping uplands. Caesar, like, in later years, Elizabeth, seems to have stopped everywhere; only he was more respectable than good Queen Bess; he didn’t put up at the public-houses. She was nuts on public-houses, was England’s Virgin Queen. There’s scarcely a pub. of any attractions within ten miles of London that she does not seem to have looked in at, or stopped at, or slept at, some time or other. I wonder now, supposing Harris, say, turned over a new leaf, and became a great and good man, and got to be Prime Minister, and died, if they would put up signs over the public-houses that lie had pa¬ tronized: “Plarris had a glass of bitter in this house;” “Harris had two of Scotch cold here in the summer of ’88;” “Harris was chucked from here in December, t886.'‘ ghxzt |$Xm iix a ^oat. 75 No. there would be too many of them! It would be the houses that he had never entered that would become famous. ‘'Only house in South London that Harris never had a drink in!” The people would flock to it to see what could have been the matter with it. How poor weak-minded King Edwy must have hated Kyningestun! The coronation feast had been too much for him. Maybe boar’s head stuffed with sugar-plums did not agree with him (it wouldn’t with me, I know), and he had had enough of sack and mead; so he slipped from the noisy revel to steal a quiet moonlight hour with his beloved Elgiva. Perhaps, from the casement, standing hand in hand, they were watching the calm moonlight on the river, while from the distant halls the boister¬ ous revelry floated in broken bursts of faint-heard din and tumult. Then brutal Odo and St. Dunstan force their rude way into the quiet room, and hurl coarse in¬ sults at the sweet-faced Queen, apd drag poor Edwy back to the loud clamor of the drunken brawl. Years later, to the crash of battle-music, Saxon kings and Saxon revelry were buried side by side, and Kingston’s greatness passed away for a time, to rise once more when Hampton Court became 76 QTxxzz |Pj etc in a Ipjcrat. the palace of the Tudors and the Stuarts, and the royal barges strained at their moorings on the river’s bank, and bright-cloaked gallants swag¬ gered down the water-steps to cry: “What Ferry, ho! Gadzooks, gramercy.” Many of the old houses, round about, speak very plainly of those days when Kingston was a royal borough, and nobles and courtiers lived there, near their King, and the long road to the palace gates was gay all day with clanking steel and prancing palfreys, and rustling silks and vel¬ vets, and fair faces. The large and spacious houses, with their oriel, latticed windows, their huge fire-places, and their gabled roofs, breathe of the days of hose and doublet, of pearl-embroid¬ ered stomachers, and complicated oaths. They were upraised in the days “when men knew how to build.” The hard, red bricks have only grown more firmly .set with time, and their oak stairs do not creak and grunt when you try to go down them quietly. Speaking of oak staircases reminds me that there is a magnificent carved oak staircase in one of the houses in Kingston. It is a shop now, in the marketplace, but it was evidently once the mansion of some great personage. A friend of mine, who lives at Kingston, went in there to buy a hat one day, and, in a thoughtless moment, put gfrcje* putt in a g^at. 77 his hand in his pocket and paid for it then and there. The shopman (he knows my friend) was natur¬ ally a little staggered at first; but, quickly recov¬ ering himself, and feeling that something ought to be done to encourage this sort of thing, asked our hero if he would like to see some fine old carved oak. My friend said he would, and the shopman, thereupon, took him through the shop, and up the staircase of the house. The balusters were a superb piece of workmanship, and the wall all the way up was oak-paneled, with carving that would have done credit to a palace. From the stairs, they went into the drawing¬ room, which was a large, bright room decorated with a somewhat startling though cheerful paper of a blue ground. There was nothing, however, remarkable about the apartment, and my friend wondered why he had been brought there. The proprietor went up to the paper, and tapped it. It gave forth a wooden sound. “Oak,” he explained. “All carved oak, right up to the ceiling, just the same as you saw on the staircase.” “But, great Caesar! man,” expostulated my friend; “you don’t mean to say you have covered over carved oak with blue wall-paper?” “Yes,” was the reply; “it was expensive work. - 78 lyteu in a ^jcrat. Had to match-board it all over first, of course. But the room looks cheerful now. It was awful gloomy before.” I can’t say I altogether blame the man (which is doubtless a great relief to his mind). From his point of view, which would be that of the average house-holder, desiring to take life as lightly as possible, and not that of the old-curiosity-shop maniac, there is reason on his side. Carved oak is very pleasant to look at, and to have a little of, but it is no doubt somewhat depressing to live in, for those whose fancy does not lie that way. It would be like living in a church. No, what was sad in his case was that he, who didn’t care for carved oak, should have his draw¬ ing-room paneled with it, while people who do care for it have to pay enormous prices to get it. It seems to be the rule of this world. Each per¬ son has what he doesn’t want, and other people have what he does want. Married men have wives, and don’t seem to want them; and young single fellows cry out that they can’t get them. Poor people who can hardly keep themselves have eight hearty children. Rich old couples, with no one to leave their money to, die childless. Then there are girls with lovers. The giris that have lovers never want them. They say they £hvee ptcn in a gjoat. 79 would rather be without them, that they bother them, and why don’t they go and make love to Miss Smith and Miss Brown, who are plain and elderly, and haven’t got any lovers? They them¬ selves don’t want lovers. They never mean to marry. It does not do to dwell on these things; it makes one so sad. There was a boy at our school; we used to call him Sanford and Merton. His real name was Stivvings. He was the most extraordinary lad I ever came across. I believe he really liked study. He used to get into awful rows for sitting up in bed and reading Greek; and as for French irreg¬ ular verbs, there was simply no keeping him away from them. He was full of weird and unnatural notions about being a credit to his parents and an honor to the school; and he yearned to win prizes, and grow up and be a clever man, and had all those sorts of weak-minded ideas. I never knew such a strange creature, yet harmless, mind you, as the babe unborn. Well, that boy used to get ill about twice a week, so that he couldn’t go to school. There never was such a boy to get ill as that Sanford and Merton. If there was any known disease going within ten miles of him, he had it, and had it badly. He would take bronchitis in the dog- 80 gtojeje ptm in a gjoat days, and have hay-fever at Christmas. After a and lived in it. There is a grotto in the park, which one can see for a fee, and which is supposed to be very wonderful; but I cannot see much in it myself. The late Duchess of York, who lived at Oatlands, was very fond of dogs, and kept an immense number. She had a special graveyard made, in which to bury them when they died, and there they lie, about fifty of them, with a tomb¬ stone over each, and an epitaph inscribed thereon. Wi&n in a gcrat. 121 Well, I dare say they deserve it quite as much as the average Christian does. At “Corway Stakes”—the first bend above Walton Bridge—was fought a battle between Caesar and Cassivelaunus. Cassivelaunus had prepared the river for Caesar, by planting it full of stakes (and had, no doubt, put up a notice- board). But Caesar crossed it in spite of this. You couldn’t choke Caesar off that river. He is the sort of man we want round the backwaters now. Halliford and Shepperton are both pretty little spots where they touch the river; but there is nothing remarkable about either of them. There is a tomb in Shepperton churchyard, however, with a poem on it, and I was nervous lest Harris should want to get out and fool round it. I saw him fix a longing eye on the landing-stage as we drew near it, so I managed, by an adroit move¬ ment, to jerk his cap into the water, and in the excitement of recovering that, and his indignation at my clumsiness, he forgot all about his beloved graves. At Weybridge, the Wey (a pretty little stream, navigable for small boats up to Guildford, and one which I have always been making up my mind to explore, and never have), the Bourne and the Basingstroke Canal all enter the Thames 122 ^fxrce vfcXw in a goat. together. The lock is just opposite the town, and the first thing that we saw, when we came in view of it, was George’s blazer on one of the lock gates, closer insp?:hcn showing that George was inside it. Montmorency *et 'up a furious barking, I shrieked, Harris 'oared; George waved his hat, and yelled back. The lock-keeper rushed out with a drag, under the impression that somebody had fallen into the lock, and appeared annoyed at finding that no one had. George h r d rather a curious oilskin-covered parcel in hi ' hand. It was round and flat at one end, with a long straight handle sticking out of it. “What’s ;hat?” said Harris—“a frying-pan?” “No,” srid George, with a strange, wild look glittering in his eyes; “they are all the rage this season; everybody has got them up the river. It’s a b/'ijo.” “I nver knew you played the banjo!” cried Harris and I, in one breath. “N' t exactly,” replied George: “but it’s very easy, they tell me; and I’ve got the instruction bocd *” glxvjejc gJXjctx in a gcuxl. 128 CHAPTER IX. We made George work, now we had got him. He did not want to work, of course; that goes without savin 0 ’. He had iiad a hard time in the • i_. city, so he explained. Harris, who is callous in his nature, and not prone to pity, said: “Ah! and now you are going to have a hard time on the river for a change; change is good tor everyone. Out you get!” He could not in conscience—not even George’s conscience—object, though he did suggest that, perhaps, it would be better for him to stop in the boat, and get tea ready, while Harris and I towed, because getting tea was such a worrying task, and Harris and I looked tired. The only reply we made to this, however, was to pass him over the tow-line, and he took it and stepped out. There is something very strange and unac¬ countable about a tow-line. You roll it up with as much patience and care as you would take to fold up a new pair of trousers, and five minutes afterward when you pick it up, it is one ghastly, soul-revolting tangle. I do not wish to be insulting, but I firmly be¬ lieve that if you took an average tow-line, and 124 Qtvczz gPtjetx in a gxrax. stretched it out straight across the middle of a field, and then turned your back on it for thirty seconds, that, when you looked round again, you would find that it had got itself altogether in a heap in the middle of the field, and had twisted it¬ self up and tied itself into knots, and lost its two ends, and become all loops; and it would take you a good half-hour, sitting down there on the grass and swearing all the while, to disentangle it again. That is my opinion of tow-lines in general. Of course, there may be honorable exceptions; I do not say there are not. There may be tow-lines that are a credit to their profession—conscien¬ tious, respectable tow-lines—tow-lines that do not imagine they are crochet-work, and try to knit themselves up into antimacassars the instant they are left to themselves. I say there may be such tow-lines; I sincerely hope there are. But I have not met with them. This tow-line I had taken in myself just before we had got to the lock. I would not let Harris touch it, because he is careless. I had looped it round slowly and cautiously, and tied it up in the middle, and folded it in two, and laid it down gently at the bottom of the boat Harris had lifted it up scientifically, and had put it into George’s hand. George had taken it firmly, and gtXeix in & Stoat. 125 held it away from him, and had begun to unravel it as if he were taking the swaddling clothes oil a new-bcrn infant; and, before he had unwourd a dozen yards, the thing was more like a badly made doormat than anything else. It is always the same, and the same sort of thing always goes on in connection with it. The man on the bank, who is trying to disentangle it, thinks all the fault lies with the man who rolled it up; and when a man up the river thinks a tiling, he says it. “What have you been trying to do with it, make a fishing-net of it? You’ve made a nice mess, you have; why couldn’t you wind it up properly, you silly dummy?” he grunts from time to time as he struggles wildly with it, and lays it out flat on the tow-path, and runs round and round it, trying to find the end. On the other hand, the man who wound it up thinks the whole cause of the muddle rests with the man who is trying to unwind it. “It was all right when you took it!” he exclaims indignantly. “Why don’t you think what you are doing? You go about things in such a slap¬ dash style. You’d get a scaffolding pole en¬ tangled, you would!” And then they feel so angry with one another that they would like to hang each other with the 126 •gfottcje tn in a ISxrat. thing. Ten minutes go by, and the first man gives a yell and goes mad, and dances on the rope, and tries to pull it straight by seizing hold of the first piece that comes to his hand and hauling at it. Of course this only gets it into a tighter tangle than ever. Then the second man climbs out of the boat and comes to help him, and they get in each other’s way and hinder one another. They both ge' hold of the same bit of line, and pull it in opposite directions, and wonder where it is caught. In the end they do get it clear, and then turn round and find that the boat has drifted off and is making straight for the weir. This really happened once to my own knowl¬ edge. It was up by Boveney, one rather wind) morning. We were pulling down stream, and, as we came round the bend, we noticed a couple of men on the bank. They were looking at each other with as bewildered and helplessly miserable ' an expression as I have ever witnessed on any human countenance before or since, and they held a long tow-line between them. It was clear that something had happened, so we eased up and asked them what was the matter. “Why, our boat’s gone off!” they rephed in an indignant tone. “We just got out to disentangle the tow-line, and when we looked round, it was gone!” ghvzz I^Cjcu in it gcr&t. 127 And they seemed hurt at what they evidently regarded as a mean and ungrateful act on the part of the boat. We found the truant for them half a mile further down, held by some rushes, and we brought it back to them. I bet they did not give that boat another chance for a week. I shall never forget the picture of these two men walking up and down the bank with a tow- line, looking for their boat. One sees a good many funny incidents up the river in connection with towing. One of the most common is the sight of a couple of towers, walking briskly along, deep in an animated dis¬ cussion, while the man in the boat, a hundred yards behind them, is vainly shrieking to them to stop, and making frantic signs of distress with a scull. Something has gone wrong; the rudder has come off, or the boat-hook has slipped over¬ board, or his hat has dropped into the water and is floating rapidly down stream. He calls to them to stop, quite gently and politely at first. “Hi! stop a minute, will you?” he shouts cheer¬ ily. “Pve dropped my hat overboard.” Then: “Hi! Tom—Dick! can’t vou hear!” not quite so affably this time. Then: “Hi! Confound you, you dunderheadcd idiots! Hi! stop! Oh, you-P 128 gferjejc JfcXjetx in a ghrai. After that he springs up, and dances about, and roars himself red in the face, and curses everything he knows. And the small boys on the bank stop and jeer at him, and pitch stones at him as he is pulled along past them, at the rate of four miles an hour, and can’t get out. Much of this sort of trouble would be saved if those who are towing would keep remembering that they are towing, and give a pretty frequent look round to see how their man is getting on. It is best to let one person tow. When two are doing it they get chattering and forget, and the boat itself, offering, as it does, but little resistance, is of no real service in reminding them of the fact As an example of how utterly oblivious a pair of towers can be to their work, George told us, later on in the evening, when we were discussing the subject after supper, of a very curious in¬ stance. He and three other men, so he said, were scuff¬ ing a very heavily laden boat up from Maiden¬ head one evening, and a little above Cookham lock they noticed a fellow and a girl walking along the tow-path, both deep in an apparently interest¬ ing and absorbing conversation. They were car¬ rying a boat-hook between them, and attached to the boat-hook was a tow-line, which trailed be¬ hind them, its end in the water. No boat was near, glxvjce g&cu itx a gjcratf. 129 *io boat was in sight There must have been a boat attached to that tow-line at some time or other, that, was certain; but what had become of it, what ghastly fate had overtaken it, and those who had been left in it, was buried in mystery. Whatever the accident may have been, however, it had in no way disturbed the young lady and gentleman who were towing. They had the boat¬ hook and they had the line, and that seemed to be all that they thought necessary to their work. George was about to call out and wake them up, but at that moment a bright idea flashed across him, and he didn’t. He got the hitcher instead, and reached over, and drew in the end of the tow- line; and they made a loop in it, and put it over their mast, and then they tidied up the sculls, and went and sat down in the stern, and lit their pipes. And that young man and young woman towed those four hulking chaps and a heavy boat up to Marlow. George said he never saw so much thoughtful sadness concentrated into one glance before, as when, at the lock, that young couple grasped the idea that, for the last two miles, they had been towing the wrong boat. George fancied that, if it had not been for the restraining influence of the 130 gto zz I^Cjctx in a gxrat. sweet woman at his side, the young man might have given way to violent language. The maiden was the .first to recover from her surprise, and, when she did, she clasped her hands, and said wildly: “Oh, Henry, then where is auntie?” “Did they ever recover the old lady?” asked Harris. George replied he did not know. Another example of the dangerous want of sympathy between the tower and the towed was witnessed by George and myself once up neai Walton. It was where the tow-path shelves gently down into the water, and we were camping on the opposite bank, noticing things in general. By and by a small boat came in sight, towed through the water at a tremendous pace by a powerful barge horse, on which sat a very small boy. Scattered about the boat, in dreamy and reposeful attitudes, lay five fellows, the man who was steering having a particularly restful appear¬ ance. “I should like to see him pull the' wrong line,” murmured George, as they passed. And at that precise moment the man did it, and the boat rushed up the bank with a noise like the ripping up of forty thousand linen sheets. Two men, a gtoe* pun in a Jloat. 131 hamper, and three oars immediately left the boat on the larboard side, and reclined on the bank, and one and a half moments afterward two other men disembarked from the starboard, and sat down among boat-hooks and sails and carpet¬ bags and bottles. The last man went on twenty yards further, and then got out on his head. This seemed to sort of lighten the boat, and it went on much easier, the small boy shouting at the top of his voice, and urging his steed into a gallop. The fellows sat up and stared at one another. It was some seconds before they real¬ ized what had happened to them, but, when they did, they began to shout lustily for the boy to stop. He, however, was too much occupied with the horse to hear them, and we watched them, flying after him, until the distance hid them from view. I cannot say I was sorry at their mishap. In¬ deed, I only wish that all the young fools who have their boats towed in this fashion—and plenty do—could meet with similar misfortunes. Be¬ sides the risk they run themselves, they become a danger and an annoyance to every other boat they pass. Going at the pace they do, it is im¬ possible for them to get out of anybody else’s way, or for anybody else to get out of theirs. Their line gets hitched across your mast, and overturns 132 gtajeje iJXcu xix x gjorat. you, or it catches somebody in the boat, and either throws them into the water, or cuts their face open. The best plan is to stand your ground and be prepared to keep them off with the butt- end of a mast. Of all experiences in connection with towing, the most exciting is being towed by girls. If is a sensation that nobody ought to miss. It takes three girls to tow always; two hold the rope, and the other one runs round and round, and giggles. They generally begin by getting themselves tied up. They get the line round their legs, and have to sit down on the path and undo each other, and then they twist it round their necks, and are nearly strangled. They fix it straight, however, at last, and start off at a run, pulling the boat along at quite a dangerous pace. At the end of a hundred yards they are naturally breathless, and suddenly stop, and all sit down on the grass and laugh, and your boat drifts out to midstream and turns round, before you know what has happened, or can get hold of a scull. Then they stand u k \ and are surprised. “Oh, look!” they say; “lie’s gone right out into the middle.” They pull on pretty steadily for a bit, and then it all at once occurs to one of them that she will ^Iivcjc plctx in a J&oat. 133 pin up her frock, and they ease up for the pur¬ pose, and the boat runs aground. You jump up, and push it off, and you shout to them not to stop. “Yes. What’s the matter?” they shou* back. “Don’t stop!” you roar. “Don’t what?” “Don’t stop—go on—go on!” “Go back, and see what it is they want,” says one; and Emily comes back, and asks what it is. “What do you want?” she says; “anything hap¬ pened?” “No,” you reply, “it’s all right; only go on, you know—don’t stop.” “Why not?” “Why, we can’t steer, if you keep stopping. You must keep some way on the boat.” “Keep some what?” “Some way—you must keep the boat moving.” “Oh, all right, I’ll tell ’em. Are we doing it all right?” “Oh, yes, very nicely indeed, only don’t stop.” “It doesn’t seem difficult at all. I thought it was so hard.” “Oh, no, it’s simple enough. You want to keep on steady at it, that’s all.” “I see. Give me out my red shawl, it’s under the cushion.” 134 ^Ixvce IJXetf in a goat. You find the shawl, and hand it out, and by this time another one has come back and thinks she will have hers, too, and they take Mary's on chance, and Mary does not want it, so they bring it back and have a pocket-comb instead. It is about twenty minutes before they get oft again, and, at the next corner, they see a cow, and you have to leave the boat to chivy the cow out of their way. There is never a dull moment 1 in the boat while girls are towing it George got the line right after awhile, and towed us steadily on to Penton Hook. There we discussed the important question of camping. We had decided to sleep on board that night, and we had either to lay up just about there, or go on past Staines. It seemed early to think about shutting up then, however, with the sun still in the heavens, and we settled to push straight on for Runnymede, three and a half miles farther, a / quiet, wooded part of the river, and where there is good shelter. We all wished, however, afterward, that we had stopped at Penton Hook. Three or four miles up stream is a trifle, early in the morning, but it is a weary pull at the end of a long day. You take no interest in the scenery during these last few 135 Shvcc WLzn in a goat. miles. Yon do not chat and laugh. Every h “If mile you cover seems like two. You can hard./ believe you are only where you are, and you are convinced that the map must be wrong; and, when you have trudged along for what seems to you at least ten miles, and still the lock is not in sight, you begin to seriously fear that somebody must have sneaked it, and run off with it. I remember being terribly upset once up the river (in a figurative sense, I mean). I was out with a young lady—cousin on my mother's side —and we were pulling down to Goring. It was rather late, and we were anxious to get in—at least she was anxious to get in. It was half-past six when we reached Benson’s lock, and dusk was drawing on, and she began to get excited then. She said she must be in to supper. I said it was a thing I felt I wanted to be in at, too; and I drew out a map I had with me to see exactly how far it was. I saw it was just a mile and a half to the next lock—Wallingford—and five on from there to Cleve. “Oh, it’s all right,’’ I said. “We'll be through the next lock before seven, and then there is only one more;” and I settled down and pulled steadily away. We passed the bridge, and soon after that I asked if she saw the lock. She said no. she did not 136 Jghvcc H&etx in a gxrat. see any lock; and I said “Oh!” and pulled on. Another five minutes went by, and then I asked her to look again. “No,” she said; “I can’t see any signs of a lock.” “You—you are sure you know a lock, when you do see one?” I asked hesitatingly, not wishing to offend her. The question did offend her, however, and she suggested that I had better look for myself; so I laid down the sculls, arid took a view. The river stretched out straight before us in the twi¬ light for about a mile; not a ghost of a lock was to be seen. “You don’t think we have lost our wav, do you?” asked my companion. I did not see how that was possible; though, as I suggested, we might have somehow got into the weir stream, and be making for the falls. This idea did not comfort her in the least, and she began to cry. She said we would both be drowned, and that it was a judgment on her for coming out with me. It seemed an excessive punishment, I thought; but my cousin thought not, and hoped it would all soon be over. I tried to reassure her and .made light of the whole affair. I said that the fact evidently was gftvce fg&m in a goat. 137 'hat I was not rowing as fast as I fancied I was, but that we would soon reach the lock now; and I pulled on for another mile. Then I began to get nervous myself. I looked again at the map. There was Wallingford lock, clearly marked, a mile and a half below Benson’s. It was a good, reliable map; and, besides, I recol¬ lected the lock myself. I had been through: it twice. Where were we? What had happened to us? I began to think that it must all be a dream, and that I was really asleep in bed, and should wake up in a minute, and be told it was past ten. I asked my cousin if she thought it could be a dream, and she replied that she was just about to ask me the same question; and then we both won¬ dered if we were both asleep, and if so, who was the real one that was dreaming, and who was the one that was only a dream; it got quite inter¬ esting. I still went on pulling, however, and still no lock came in sight, and the river grew more and more gloomy and mysterious under the gathering shadows of night, and things seemed to be getting weird and uncanny. I thought of hobgoblins and banshees, and will-o’-the-wisps, and those wicked girls who sit up all night on the rocks, and lure people into whirlpools and things; and I washed I had been a better man, and knew more hymns; 138 gJTive.c |XXeu in a and in the middle of these reflections I heard the blessed strains of “He’s got ’em bad,” played, badly, on a concertina, and knew that we were saved. I do not admire the tones of a concertina, as a rule; but oh! how beautiful the music seemed to us both then—far, far more beautiful than the voice of Orpheus or the lute of Apollo, or any¬ thing of that sort could have sounded. Heavenly melody, in our then state of mind, would only have still further harrowed us. A soul-moving harmony, correctly performed, we should have taken as a spirit-warning, and have given up all hope. But about the strains of “He’s got ’em bad,” jerked spasmodically, and with involuntary vari¬ ations, out of a wheezy accordion, there was something singularly human and reassuring. The sweet sounds drew nearer, and soon the boat from which they were worked lay along¬ side us. It contained a party of provincial ’Arrys and ’Arriets, out for a moonlight sail. (There was not any moon, but that was not their fault.) ± never saw more attractive, lovable people in all my life. I hailed them, and asked if they could tell me the way to Wallingford lock; and I ex¬ plained that I had been looking for it for the past two hours. gfrvec in a goat, u* “Wallingford lock!” they answered. “Yor’ love yon, sir, that’s been done away with for over a year. There ain’t no Wallingford lock now, sir. You’re close to Cleve now. Blow me tight if 'ere ain’t a gentleman been looking for Wallingford lock, Bill!” I had never thought of that. I wanted to fall upon all their necks and bless them; but the stream was running too strong just there to allow of this, so I had to content myself with mere cold¬ sounding words of gratitude. We thanked them over and over again, and we said it was a lovely night, and we wished them a pleasant trip, and, I think, I invited them all to come and spend a week with me, and my cousin said her mother would be pleased to see them. And we sang the soldier’s chorus out of “Faust” and got home in time for supper after all. CHAPTER X. Harris and I began to think that Bell Wier lock must have been done away with after the iame manner. George had towed us up to *'taines, and we had taken the boat from there, 140 glxvjejc f&jett in Xcu in a gjcrat. 21 ? sion, and would try and rouse it every now and then by growling at it. When it began to splut¬ ter and steam, he regarded it as a challenge, and would want to fight it, only, at that precise mo¬ ment, some one would always dash up and bear off his prey before he could get at it. To-day he determined he would be beforehand At the first sound the kettle made, he rose, growl¬ ing, and advanced toward it in a threatening atti¬ tude. It was only a little kettle, but it was full of pluck, and it up and spit at him. “Ah! would ye!” growled Montmorency, show¬ ing his teeth; “I’ll teach ye to cheek a hardwork¬ ing, respectable dog; ye miserable, long nosed, dirty-looking scoundrel, ye. Come on!” And he rushed at that poor little kettle, and seized it by the spout. Then, across the evening stillness, broke a blood-curdling yelp, and Montmorency left the boat, and did a constitutional three times round the island at the rate of thirty-five miles an hour, stopping every now and then to bury his nose in a bit of cool mud. From that day Montmorency regarded the ket¬ tle with a mixture of awe, suspicion, and hate. Whenever he saw it, he would growl and back at a rapid rate, with his tail shut down, and the moment it was put upon the stove he would 218 gfetteje f&m iix a JBoai. promptly climb out of the boat, and sit on the bank, till the whole tea business was over George got out his banjo after supper, and wanted to play it, but Harris objected: he said he had got a headache, and did not feel strong enough to stand it. George thought the music might do him good—said music often soothed the nerves and took away a headache; and he twanged two or three notes, just to show Harris what it was like. / Harris said he would rather have the head¬ ache. George has never learned to play the banjo to this day. He has had too much all-round dis¬ couragement to meet. He tried on two or three evenings, while we were up the river, to get a little practice, but it was never a success. Harris’s language used to be enough to unnerve any man; added to which, Montmorency would sit and howl steadily, right through the performance. It was not giving the man a fair chance. ‘‘What’s he want to howl like that for when I’m playing?” George would exclaim indignantly, while taking aim at him with a boot. “What do you want to play like that for when he is howling?” Harris would retort, catching the boot. “You let him alone. He can’t help glxxzz gXjett iu a Ipjorat. 219 howling. He’s got a musical ear, and your play¬ ing makes him howl.” So George determined to postpone study of the banjo until he reached home. But he did not get much opportunity even there. Mrs. P. used to come up and say she was very sorry—for her¬ self, she liked to hear him—but the lady upstairs was in a very delicate state, and the doctor was afraid it might injure the child. Then George tried taking it out with him late at night, and practising round the square. But the inhabitants complained to the police about it, and a watch was set for him one night, and he was captured. The evidence against him was very clear, and he was bound over to keep the peace for six months. He seemed to lose heart in the business after that. He did make one or two feeble efforts to take up the work again when the six months had elapsed, but there was always the same coldness •—the same want of sympathy on the part of the world to fight against; and, after a while, he despaired altogether, and advertised the instru¬ ment for sale at a great sacrifice—‘'owner having no further use for same”—and took to learning card tricks instead. It must be disheartening work learning a mus¬ ical instrument. You would think that Society, 220 gtoeje ptjen in a gnat. i for its own sake, would do all it could to assist a man to acquire the art of playing a musical in¬ strument. But it doesn’t! I knew a young fellow once, who was study¬ ing to play the bagpipes, and you would be sur¬ prised at the amount of opposition he had to contend with. Why, not even from the mem¬ bers of his own family did he receive what you could call active encouragement. His father was dead against the business from the beginning, and spoke quite unfeeling on the subject. My friend used to get up early in the morning to practice, but he had to give that plan up, be¬ cause of his sister. She was somewhat religiously inclined, and she said it seemed such an awful thing to begin the day like that. So he sat up at night instead, and played after the family had gone to bed, but that did not do, as it got the house such a bad name. People, going home late, would stop outside to listen, and then put it about all over the town, the next morning, that a fearful murder had been com¬ mitted at Mr. Jefferson’s the night before; and would describe how they had heard the victim’s shrieks and the brutal oaths and curses of the murderer, followed by the prayer for mercy, and the last dying gurgle of the corpse. So they let him practice in the daytime, in the gtweje |$tm in a gtoat. 221 back-kitchen, with all the doors shut; but his more successful passages could generally be heard in the sitting-room, in spite of these pre¬ cautions, and would affect his mother almost to tears. She said it put her in mind of her poor father (he had been swallowed by a shark, poor man, while bathing off the coast of New Guinea— where the connection came in, she could not ex¬ plain). Then they knocked im a little place for him at the bottom of the garden, about quarter of a mile from the house, and made him take the ma¬ chine down there when he wanted to work it; and sometimes a visitor would come to the house who knew nothing of the matter, and they would forget to tell him all about it, and caution him, and he would go out for a stroll round the gar¬ den and suddenly get within ear-shot of those bagpipes, without being prepared for it, or know¬ ing what it was. If he were a man of strong mind, it only gave him fits; but a person of mere aver¬ age intellect it usually sent mad. There is, it must be confessed, something very sad about the early efforts of an amateur in bag¬ pipes. I have felt that myself when listening to my young friend. They appear to be a trying in¬ strument to perform upon. You have to get gfxueje ||Xj etx iw a gjcrat. 22 „ enough breath for the whole tune before you start—at least, so I gathered from watching Jeff¬ erson. He would begin magnificently, with a wild, full, come-to-the-battle sort of a note, that quite roused you. But he would get more and more piano as he went on, and the last verse generally collapsed in the middle with a sputter and a hiss. You want to be in good health to play the bag¬ pipes. Young Jefferson only learnt to play one tune on those bagpipes; but I never heard any com¬ plaints about the insufficiency of his repertoire— none whatever. This tune was “The Campbells are Coming, Hooray—Hooray!'’ so he said, though his father always held that it was “The Blue Bells of Scotland.” Nobody seemed quite sure what it was exactly, but they all agreed that it sounded Scotch. Strangers were allowed three guesses, and most of them guessed a different tune each time. Harris was disagreeable after supper,—I think it must have been the stew that had upset him: he is not used to high living—so George and I left him in the boat, and settled to go to a mouch round Henley. He said he should have a glass of whisky and a pipe, and fix things up for the Qftvzc gXcu in a goat. 223 night. We were to shout when we returned, and he would row over from the island and fetch us. “Don’t go to sleep, old man,” we said as we started. “Not much fear of that while this stew’s on,” he grunted, as he pulled back to the island. Henley was getting ready for the regatta, and was full of bustle. We met a goodish number of men we knew about the town, and in their pleas¬ ant company the time slipped by somewhat quickly; so that it was nearly eleven o’clock be¬ fore we set off on our four-mile walk home—as we had learned to call our little craft by this time. It was a dismal night, coldish, with a thin rain falling; and as we trudged through the dark, silent fields talking low to each other, and won¬ dering if we were going right or not, we thought of the cosy boat, with the bright light stream¬ ing through the tight-drawn canvas; of Harris and Montmorency, and the whisky, and wished we were there. We conjured up the picture of ourselves in¬ side, tired and a little hungry; of the gloomy river and the shapeless trees; and, like a giant glow-worm underneath them, our dear old boat, so snug and warm and cheerful. We could see ourselves at supper there, pecking away at cold meat, and passing each other chunks of bread; 224 Jgltoje pc m in a gjcrat. we could hear the cheery clatter of our knives, the laughing voices, filling all the space, and overflowing through the opening out into the night. And we hurried on to realize the vision. We struck the tow-path at length, and that made us happy; because prior to this we had not been sure whether we were walking toward the river or away from it, and when you are tired and want to go to bed uncertainties like that worry you. We passed Shiplake as the clock was striking the quarter to twelve; and then George said, thoughtfully: “You don’t happen to remember which of the islands it was, do you?” “No,” I replied, beginning to grow thoughtful too, “I don’t. How many are there?” “Only four,” answered George. “It will be all right if he’s awake.” “And if not?” I queried; but we dismissed that train of thought. We shouted when we came opposite the first island, but there was no response; so we went to the second, and tried there, and obtained the same result. “Oh! I remember now,” said George; “it was the third one.” And we ran on hopefully to the third one, and hallooed. 'ghxzz BXctt in a gnat. 225 No answer! The case was becoming serious. It was now past midnight. The hotels at Shiplake and Hen¬ ley would be crammed; and we could not go round, knocking up cottagers and householders in the middle of the night, to know if they let apartments! George suggested walking back to Henley and assaulting a policeman and so get¬ ting a night’s lodging in the station house. But then there was the thought, “Suppose he only hits us back and refuses to lock us up!” We could not pass the whole night fighting policemen. Besides, we did not want to overdo the thing and get six months. We despairingly tried what seemed in the dark¬ ness to be the fourth island, but met with no bet¬ ter success. The rain was coming down fast now, ’ and evidently meant to last. We were wet to the skin, and cold and miserable. We began to wonder whether there were only four islands or more, or whether we were near the islands at all, or whether we were anywhere within a mile of where we ought to be, or in the wrong part of the river altogether; everything looked so strange and different in the darkness. We began to un¬ derstand the suffering of the Babes in the Wood, Just when we had given up all hope—yes, I know that is always the time that things do hap- 226 gfo^eje gjXm in a gSjcrat. pen in novels and tales; but I can’t help it. I resolved, when I began to write this book, that I would be strictly truthful in all things; and so, I will be, even if I have to employ hackneyed phrases for the purpose. It was just when we had given up all hope, and I must therefore say so. Just when we had given up all hope, then, I suddenly caught sight, a little way below us, of a strange, weird sort of glimmer flickering among the trees on the opposite bank. For an instant I thought of ghosts: it was such a shadowy, mysterious light. The next moment it hashed across me that it was our boat, and 1 sent up such a yell across the water that made the night seem to shake in its bed. We waited breathless for a minute, and then —oh! divinest music of the darkness—we heard the answering bark of Montmorency. We shouted back loud enough to wake the Seven Sleepers—I never could understand myself why it should take more noise to wake seven s’eepers than one—and, after what seemed an hour, but what was really, I suppose, about five minutes, we saw the lighted boat creeping slowly over the blackness, and heard Harris’s sleepy voice ask¬ ing where we were. There was an .unaccountable strangeness about Harris. It was something more than mere ordi- gfttteje fjj&etx in a gjcrat. 227 nary tiredness. He pulled the boat against a part of the bank from which it was quite impossible for us to get into it, and immediately went to sleep. It took us an immense amount of scream- • ing and roaring to wake him up again and put some sense into him; but we succeeded at last, and got safely on board. Harris had a sad expression on him, so We noticed, when we got into the boat. He gave you the idea of a man who had been through trouble. We asked if anything had happened, and he said— “Swans!” It seemed we had moored close to a swan’s nest, and, soon after George and I had gone, the female swan came back, and kicked up a row about it. Harris had chivied her off, and she had gone away, and fetched up her old man. Harris said he had had quite a fight with these two swans; but courage and skill had prevailed in the end, and he had defeated them. Half an hour afterward they returned with eighteen other swans! It must have been a fear¬ ful battle, so far as we could understand Harris’s account of it. The swans had tried to drag him and Montmorency out of the boat and drown them; and he had defended himself like a hero for four hours, and had killed the lot, and they had 228 gluxc gXjcn in a gjoat. all paddled away to die. “How many swans did you say there were?” asked George. “Thirty-two,” replied Harris, sleepily. “You said eighteen just now” said George. “No, I didn’t,” grunted Harris; “I said twelve. Think I can’t count?” What were the real facts about these swans we never found out. We questioned Harris on the subject in the morning, and he said, “What swans?” and seemed to think that George and I had been dreaming. Oh, how delightful it was to be safe in the boat, after our trials and fears! We ate a hearty sup¬ per, George and I, and we should have had some toddy after it, if we could have found the whisky, but we could not. We examined Harris as to what he had done with it; but he did not seem to know what we meant by “whisky,” or what we were talking about at all. Montmorency looked as if he knew something, but said nothing. I slept well that night, and should have slept better if it had not been for Harris. I have a vague recollection of having been woke up at least a dozen times during the night by Harris wandering about the boat with a lantern, looking for his clothes. He seemed to be worrying about his clothes all night. Qlnczz gXm in a goat. 22Q' Twice he routed up George and myself to see if we were lying on his trousers. George got quite wild the second time. “What the thunder do you want your trousers for, in the middle of the night?” he asked, in¬ dignantly. “Why don’t you lie down, and go to sleep?” I found him in trouble, the next time I awoke, because he could not find his socks: and mv last ' * hazy remembrance is of being rolled over on my side, and of hearing Harris muttering something about its being an extraordinary thing where his umbrella could have got to. CHAPTER XV. We woke late the next morning, and, a' Harris’s earnest desire, partook of a plain break’ fast, with “non dainties” Then we cleaned up, and put everything straight (a continual labot, which was beginning to afford me a pretty clear insight into a question that had often posed me— namely, how a woman with the work of only one house on her hands manages to pass away her time), and, at about ten, set out on what we had determined should be a good day’s journey. 230 gte&e UXm in a We agreed that we would pull this morning, •as a change from towing; and Harris thought the best arrangement would be that George and I should scull, and he steer. I did not chime in with this idea at all; I said I thought Harris would have been showing a more proper spirit if he had suggested that he and George should work, and let me rest a bit. It seemed to me that I was doing more than my fair share of the work on this trip, and I was beginning to feel strongly on the subject. It always does seem to me that I am doing more work than I should do. It is not that I object to the work, mind you; I like work: it fascinates me. I can sit and look at it for hours. I love to keep it by me: the idea of getting rid of it nearly breaks my heart. You cannot give me too much work; to ac¬ cumulate work has almost bee ome a passion with me; my study is so full of it now, that there is hardly an inch of room for any more. I shall have to throw out a wing soon. And I am careful of my work, too. Why, some of the work that I have by me now has been in my possession for years and years, and there isn’t a finger mark on it. I take a great pride in my work; I take it down now and then 'ghxzz ptm in a gxrat* 231 and dust it. No man keeps his work in a better state of preservation than I do. But, though I crave for work, I still like to he fair. I do not ask for more than my proper share. But I get it without asking for it—at least, so it appears to me—and this worries me. George says he does not think I need trouble myself on the subject. He thinks it is only my overscrupulous nature that makes me fear I am having more than my due; and that, as a matter of fact, I don’t have half as much as I ought. But I expect he only says this to comfort me. In a boat, I have always noticed that it is the fixed idea of each member of the crew that he is doing everything. Harris’s notion was, that it was he alone who had been working, and that both George and I had been imposing upon him. George, on the other hand, ridiculed the idea of Harris’s having done anything more than eat and sleep, and had a cast-iron opinion that it was he—George himself—who had done all the labor worth speaking of. He said he had never been out with such a couple of lazy skulks as Harris and I. That amused Harris. “Fancy old George talking about work!’" he laughed; “why, about half an hour of it would 282 glxtxe gfUu in a gjoat. kill him. Have you ever seen George work?* he added, turning to me. I agreed with Harris that I never had—most certainly not since we had started on this trip. “Well, I don’t see how you can know much about it, one way or the other,” George retorted on Harris; “for I’m blest if you haven’t been asleep half the time. Have you ever seen Harris fully awake, except at meal-time?” asked George, addressing me. Truth compelled me to support George. Har¬ ris had been very little good in the boat, so far as helping was concerned, from the beginning, “Well, hang it, I’ve done more than old J., any¬ how,” rejoined Harris. “Well, you couldn’t very well have done less,” added George. “I suppose J. thinks he is the passenger,” con¬ tinued Harris. And that was their gratitude to me for having brought them and their wretched old boat all the way up from Kingston, and for having super¬ intended and managed everything for them, and taken care of them, and slaved for them. It is the way of the world. We settled the present difficulty by arranging that Harris and George should scull up past Reading, and that I should tow the boat on from gfttteje I^Xett in a goat. 233 there. Pulling a heavy boat against a strong stream has few attractions for me now. There was a time, long ago, when I used to clamor for the hard work; now I like to give the youngsters a chance. I notice that most of the old river hands are similarly retiring, whenever there is any stiff pulling to be done. You can always tell the old river hand by the way in which he stretches him¬ self out upon the cushions at the bottom of the boat, and encourages the rowers by telling them anecdotes about the marvelous feats he per¬ formed last season. “Call what you’re doing hard work!” he drawls, between his contented whiffs, addressing the two perspiring novices, who have been grinding away steadily up stream for the last hour and a half; “why, Jim Biffles and Jack and I, last season, pulled up from Marlow to Goring in one after¬ noon—never stopped once. Do you remember that Jack?” Jack, who has made himself a bed up in the prow of all the rugs and coats he can collect, and who has been lying there asleep for the last two hours, partially wakes up on being thus appealed to, and recollects all about the matter, and also remembers that there was an unusually strong 234 gtojejc pirn in a ifhrat. stream against them all the way—likewise a stiff wind. “About thirty-four miles, I suppose, it must have been,” adds the first speaker, reaching down another cushion to put under his head. “No—no; don’t exaggerate, Tom,” murmurs Jack, reprovingly; “thirty-three at the outside.” And Jack and Tom, quite exhausted by this conversational effort, drop off to sleep once more. And the two simple-minded youngsters at the sculls feel quite proud of being allowed to row such wonderful oarsmen as Jack and Tom, and strain away harder than ever. When I was a young man, I used to listen to these tales from my elders, and take them in, and swallow them, and digest every word of them, and then come up for more; but the new genera¬ tion do not seem to have the simple faith of the old times. We—George, Harris, and myself— took a “raw’un” up with us once last season, and we plied him with the customary stretchers about the wonderful things we had done all the way up. We gave him all the regular ones—the time honored lies that have done duty up the river with every boating man for years past—and added seven entirely original ones that we had in¬ vented for ourselves, including a really quite likely story, founded, to a certain extent, on an all glxfje* ptm itx a goat. 235 but true episode, which had actually happened in a modified degree some years ago to friends of ours—a story that a mere child could have be¬ lieved without injuring itself much. And that young man mocked at them all and wanted us to repeat the feats then and there, and to bet us ten to one that we didn’t. We got to chatting about our rowing experi¬ ences this morning, and to recounting stories of our first efforts in the art of oarsmanship. My own earliest boating recollection is of five of us contributing threepence each and taking out a curiously constructed craft on the Regent’s Park lake, drying ourselves subsequently in the park- keeper’s lodge. After that, having acquired a taste for water, I did a good deal of rafting in various suburban brickfields—an exercise providing more interest and excitement than might be imagined, espe¬ cially when you are in the middle of the pond and the proprietor of the materials of which the craft is constructed suddenly appears on the bank, with a big stick in his hand. Your first sensation on seeing this gentleman is that, somehow or other, you don’t feel equal to company and conversation, and that, if you could do so without appearing rude, you would rather avoid meeting him; and your object is, *>36 QJxvzz ^izn in a gjcral therefore, to get off on the opposite side of the pond to which he is, and to go home quietly and quickly, pretending not to see him. He, on the contrary, is yearning to take you by the hand, and talk to you. It appears that he knows your father, and is intimately acquainted with yourself, but this does not draw you toward him. He says he’ll teach you to take his boards and make a raft of them; but, seeing that you know how to do this pretty well already, the offer, though doubtless kindly meant, seems a superfluous one on his part, and you are reluctant to put him to any trouble by accepting it. His anxiety to meet you, however, is proof against all your coolness, and the enegetic man¬ ner in which he dodges up and down the pond so as to be on the spot to greet you when you land is really quite flattering. If he be of a stout and short-winded build, you can easily avoid his advances; but, when he is of the youthful and long-legged type, a meeting is inevitable. The interview is, however, extremely brief, most of the conversation being on his part, your remarks being mostly of an exclamatory and monosyllabic order, and as soon as you can tear yourself away you do so. I devoted some three months to rafting, and, gftvjeje pUtx itx ix goat. 231 being then as proficient as there was any need to be at that branch of the art, I determined to go in for rowing proper, and joined one of the Lea boating clubs. Being out in a boat on the river Lea, especially on Saturday afternoons, soon makes you smart at handling a craft, and spry at escaping being run down by roughs or swamped by barges; and it also affords plenty of opportunity for acquiring the most prompt and graceful method of lying down flat at the bottom of the boat so as to avoid being chucked out into the river by passing tow- lines. But it does not give you style. It was not till I came to the Thames that I got style. My style of rowing is very much admired now. People sav it is so quaint. George never went near the water until he was sixteen. Then he and eight other gentlemen of about the same age went down in a body to Kew one Saturday, with the idea of hiring a boat there, and pulling to Richmond and back;, one of their number, a shock-headed youth, named Joskins, who had once or twice taken out a boat on the Serpentine, told them it was jolly fun, boating. The tide was running out pretty rapidly when they reached the landing stage, and there was a 238 gftfcje m&jetx in a IS oat. stiff breeze blowing across the river, but this did not trouble them at all, and they proceeded to select their boat. There was an eight-oared racing outrigger drawn up on the stage; that was the one that took their fancy. They said they’d have that one, please. The boatman was away and only his boy was in charge. The boy tried to damp their ardor for the outrigger, and showed them two or three very comfortable-looking boats of the family-party build, but those would not do at all; the outrigger was the boat they thought they would look best in. So the boy launched it, and they took off their coats and prepared to take their seats. The boy suggested that George, who, even in those days, was always the heavy man of any party, should be number four. George said he should be happy to be number four, and promptly stepped into bow’s place, and sat down with his back to the stern. They got him into his proper position at last, and then the others followed. A particularly nervous boy was appointed cox, and the steering principle explained to him by Joskins. Joskins himself took stroke. He told the others that it was simple enough; all they had to do was to follow him. They said they were ready, and the boy on Q\ixzz g&m in a gjcrat. 239 the landing stage took a boat-hook and shoved him off. What then followed George is unable to de¬ scribe in detail. He has a confused recollection of having, immediately on starting, received a violent blow in the small of the back from the butt end of number five’s scull, at the same time that his own seat seemed to disappear from un¬ der him by magic, and leave him sitting on the boards. He also noticed, as a curious circum¬ stance, that number two was at the same instant lying on his back at the bottom of the boat, with his legs in the air, apparently in a fit. They passed under Kew Bridge, broadside, at the rate of eight miles an hour, Joskins being the only one who was rowing. George, on recover¬ ing his seat, tried to help him, but, on dipping his oar into the water, it immediately, to his in¬ tense surprise, disappeared under the boat, and nearly took him with it. And then “cox” threw both rudder lines over¬ board, and burst into tears. How they got back George never knew, but it took them just forty minutes. A dense crowd watched the entertainment from Kew Bridge with much interest, and everybody shouted out to them different directions. Three times they managed to get their boat back through the arch. £4® ghvce BXcu it% a goat. and three times they were carried under it again, ^nd every time “cox” looked up and saw the bridge above him he broke out into renewed sobs. George said he little thought that afternoon that he should ever come to really like boating. Harris is more accustomed to sea rowing than to river work, and says that, as an exercise, he prefers it. I don’t. I remember taking a small boat out at Eastbourne last summer; I used to do a good deal of sea rowing years ago, and I thought I should be all right; but I found I had forgotten the art entirely. When one scull was deep down underneath the water, the other would be flourishing wildly about in the air. To get a grip of the water with both at the same time I had to stand up. The parade was crowded with nobility and gentry, and I had to pull past them in this ridiculous fashion. I landed half-way down the beach, and secured the services of an old boatman to take me back. I like to watch an old boatman rowing, espec¬ ially one who has been hired by the hour. There is something so beautifully calm and restful about his method. It is so free from that fretful haste, that vehement striving, that is every day becom¬ ing more and more the bane of Nineteenth Cen¬ tury life. He is not forever straining himself to QftviM fj&ett in a idoiit. 241 pass all the other boats. If another boat over¬ takes him and passes him it does not annoy him; as a matter of fact, they all do overtake him and pass him—all those that are going his way. This would trouble and irritate some people; the sublime equanimity of the hired boatman under the ordeal affords us a beautiful lesson against ambition and uppishness. Plain practical rowing of the get-the-boat- along order is not a very difficult art to acquire, but it takes a good deal of practice before a man feels comfortable when rowing past girls. It is the “time” that worries a youngster. “It’s jolly funny,’’ he says, as for the twentieth time within five minutes he disentagles his sculls from yours: “I can get on all right when Pm by my' self!” To see two novices try to keep time with one another is very amusing. Bow finds it impossible to keep pace with stroke, because stroke row's in such an extraordinary fashion. Stroke is in¬ tensely indignant at this, and explains that what ^he has been endeavoring to do for the last ten minutes is to adapt his method to bow’s limited capacity. Bow r , in turn then becomes insulted, and requests stroke not to trouble his head about him (bow), but to devote his mind to setting a sensible stroke. 242 glxvjcjc iptm in a goat. “Or, shall I take stroke?” he adds, with the evident idea that that would at once put the whole matter right. They splash along for another hundred yards with still mo.derate success, and then the whole secret of their trouble bursts upon stroke like a flash of inspiration. “I tell you what it is: you’ve got my sculls,” he cries, turning to bow; “pass yours over.” “Well, do you know, I’ve been wondering how it was I couldn’t get on with these,” answers bow, quite brightening up, and most willingly assist¬ ing in the exchange. “Now we shall be all right.” But they are not—not even then. Stroke has to stretch his arms nearly out of their sockets to reach his sculls now;while bow’s pair, at each recovery, hit him a violent blow in the chest. So they change back again, and come to the con¬ clusion that the man has given them the wrong set altogether; and over their mutual abuse of this man they become quite friendly and sym¬ pathetic. George said he had often longed to take to punting for a change. Punting is not as easy as it looks. As in rowing, you soon learn how to get along and handle the craft, but it takes long gt xxzz fptjcu lit a ^xrat. 243 practice before you can do this with dignity and without getting the water all up your sleeve. One young man I knew had a very sad acci¬ dent happen to him the first time he went punt¬ ing. He had been getting on so well that he had grown quite cheeky over the business, and was walking up and down the punt, working his pole with a careless grace that was quite fascinating to watch. Up he would march to the head of the punt, plant his pole, and then run along right to the other end, just like an old punter. Oh! it was grand. And it would all have gone on being grand if he had not, unfortunately, while looking round to enjoy the scenery, taken just one step more than there was any necessity for, and walked off the punt altogether. The pole was firmly fixed in the mud, and he was left clinging to it while the punt drifted away. It was an undignified position for him. A rude boy on the bank im¬ mediately yelled oqt to a lagging chum to “hurry up and see a real monkey on a stick.” I could not go to his assistance because, as ill-luck would have it, we had not taken the proper precaution to bring out a spare pole with us. I could only sit and look at him. His ex¬ pression as the pole slowly sank with him I shall never forget; there was so much thought in it. 2\t gtxvjeje gtXcn itx a goat. I watched him gently let down into the water, and saw him scramble out, sad and wet. I could not help laughing, he looked such a ridiculous figure. I continued to chuckle to myself about it for some time, and then it was suddenly forced in upon me that really I had got very little to laugh at when I came to think of it. Here was I alone in a punt, without a pole, drifting help¬ lessly down mid-stream—possibly toward a weir. I began to feel very indignant with my friend for having stepped overboard and gone off in that way. He might, at all events, have left me the pole. I drifted on for about a quarter of a mile, and then I came in sight of a fishing-punt moored in mid-stream, in which sat two old fishermen. They saw me bearing down upon them, and they called out to me to keep out of their way. “I can’t,” I shouted back. “But you don’t try,” they answered. I explained the matter to them when I got nearer, and they caught me and lent me a pole. The weir was just fifty yards below. I am glad they happened to be there. The first time I went punting was in the com¬ pany with three other fellows; they were going to show me how to do it. We could not all start together, so I said I would go down first and get $tmje l$Utt in a gnat. 245 out the punt, and then I could potter about and practice a bit until they came. I could not get a punt out that afternoon, they were all engaged; so I.had nothing else to do but to sit down on the bank, watching the river, and waiting for my friends. I had not been sitting there long before my attention became attracted to a man in a punt who, I noticed with some surprise, wore a jacket and cap exactly like mine. He was evidently a novice at punting, and his performance was most interesting. You never knew what was go¬ ing to happen when he put the pole in; he evi¬ dently did not know himself. Sometime he shot up stream and sometimes he shot down stream * and at other times he simply spun round and came up the other side of the pole. And with every result he seemed equally surprised and an¬ noyed. The people about the river began to get quite absorbed in him after a while, and to make bets with one another as to what would be the out¬ come of his next push. In the course of time my friends arrived on the opposite bank, and they stopped and watched him too. His back was toward them, and they only saw his jacket and cap. From this they immediately jumped to the conclusion that it 246 gtaee fputt jtw a ISaa*. was I, their beloved companion, who was making an exhibition of himself, and their delight knew no bounds. They commenced to chaff him un* mercifully. I c did not grasp their mistake at first, and I thought, “How rude of them to go on like that, with a perfect stranger, too!” But before I could call out and reprove them, the explanation of the matter occurred to me, and I withdrew behind a tree. Oh, how they enjoyed themselves, ridiculing that young man! For five good minutes they stood there, shouting ribaldry at him, deriding him, mocking him, jeering at him. They pep¬ pered him with stale jokes, they even made a few new 01: *s and threw at him. They hurled at him all the private family jokes belonging to our set, and which must have been perfectly unin¬ telligible to him. And then, unable to stand their brutal jibes any longer, he turned round on them, and they saw his face! I was glad to notice that they had sufficient decency left in them to look very foolish. They explained to him that they had thought he was some one they knew. They said they hoped he would not deem them capable of so insulting any one except a personal friend of their own. Of course their having mistaken him for a glxvec glen itx a gcnxt. 24? friend excused it. I remember Harris telling me once of a bathing experience he had at Boulogne. He was swimming about there near the beach, when he felt himself suddenly seized Dy the neck from behind, and forcibly plunged under water He struggled violently, but whoever had got hold of him seemed to be a perfect Hercules in strength, and all his efforts to escape were un¬ availing. He had given up kicking, and was try¬ ing to turn his thoughts upon solemn things, when his captor released him. He regained his feet, and looked round for his would-be murderer. The assassin was standing close by him laughing heartily; but the moment he caught sight of Harris’s face, as it emerged from the water, he started back and seemed quite concerned. “I really beg your pardon,” he stammered, con¬ fusedly, “but I took you for a friend of mine!” Harris thought it was lucky for him the man had not mistaken him for a relation, or he would probably have been drowned outright. Sailing is a thing that wants knowledge and practice too—though, as a boy, I did not think so. I had an idea it came natural to a body, like rounders and touch. I knew another boy who held this view likewise, and so, one windy day, we thought we would try the sport. We were 248 2&m in a gout. stopping down at Yarmouth, and we decided we would go for a trip up the Yare. We hired a sailing boat at the yard bv the bridge and started off. “It’s rather a rough day,” said the man to us, as we put off; “better take in a reef and luff sharp when you get round the bend.” We said we would make a point oi it, and left him with a cheery “Good-morning,” wondering to ourselves how you “luffed,” and where we were to get a “reef” from, and what we were to do with it when we had got it. We rowed until we were out of sight of the town, and then, with a wide stretch of water in front us, and the wind blowing a perfect hurri¬ cane across it, we felt that the time had come to commpt^; operations. Hector—I think that was his name—went on pulling while I unrolled the sail. It seemed a complicated job, but I accomplished it at length, and then came the question, which was the top end? By a sort of natural instinct, we of course, eventually decided that the bottom was the top, and set to work to fix it upside-down. But it was a long time before we could get it up, either that way or any other way. The impression on the mind of the sail seemed to be that we were glxvjcje pUu itx a goat. 249 ptaving at funerals, and that I was the corpse and itself was the winding-sheet When it found that this was not the idea, it hit me over the head with the boom, and refused to do anything. “Wet it,” said Hector; “drop it over and get it wet” He said people in ships always wetted the sails before they put them up. So I wetted it; but that only made matters worse than they were before. A dry sail clinging to your legs and wrapping itself around your head is not pleasant, but, when the sail is sopping wet, it becomes quite vexing. We did get the thing up at last, the two of us together. We fixed it, not exactly upside down —more sideways like—and we tied it up to the mast with the painter, which we cut off for the purpose. That the boat did not upset I simply state as a fact. Why it did not upset I am unable to offer any reason. I have often thought about the mat¬ ter since, but I have never succeeded in arriv¬ ing at any satisfactory explanation of the phe¬ nomenon. Possibly the result may have been brought about by the natural obstinacy of all things in this world. The boat may possibly have come to the conclusion, judging from a cursory view 250 gtirsje pltn in a Ipjcrat, of our behavior, that we had come out for u morning’s suicide, and had thereupon determined to disappoint us. That is the only suggestion I can offer. By clinging like grim death to the gunwale, we just managed to keep inside the boat, but it was exhausting work. Hector said that pirates and other seafaring people generally lashed the rud¬ der to something or other, and hauled in the main top-jib, during severe squalls, and thought we ought to try to do something of the kind; but I was for letting her have her head to the wind. As my advice was by far the easiest to follow, we ended by adopting it, and contrived to em¬ brace the gunwale and give her her head. The boat traveled up stream for about a mile at a pace I have never sailed at since, ana don’t want to again. Then, at a bend, she heeled over till half her sail was under water. Then she righted herself by a miracle and flew for a long, low bank of soft mud. That mud-bank saved us. The boat ploughed its way into the middle of it and then stuck. Finding that we were once more able to move according to our ideas, instead of being pitched and tiirown about like peas in a bladder, we crept forward and cut down the sail. We had enough sailing. We did not want to gfttteje in a ggjorai. overdo the thing and get a surfeit of it. We had had a sail—a good, all round, exciting, interest¬ ing sail—and now we thought we would have a row, just for a change like. We took the sculls and tried to push the boat the mud, and, in doing so, we broke one of the sculls. After that we proceeded with great cau¬ tion, but they were a wretched old pair and the second one cracked almost easier than the first, *nd left us helpless. The mud stretched out for about a hundred yards in front of us, and behind us was the water. The only thing to be done was to sit and wait until some one came by. It was not the sort of day to attract people out on the river, and it was three hours before a soul came in sight. It was an old fisherman who, with immense difficulty, at last rescued us, and we were towed back in an ignominious fash¬ ion to the boat-yard. What between tipping the man who had brought us home, and paying for the broken sculls, and fcr having been out four hours and a half, it cost us a pretty considerable number of weeks’ pocket-money, that sail. But w*e learned experience, and they say that is always cheap at any price. Stress pim in a goal* CHAPTER XVI. We came in sight of Reading about eleven. The river is dirty and dismal here. One does not lingei in the neighborhood of Reading. The town itself is a famous old place, dating from the dim days of King Ethelred, when the Danes anchored their warships in the Kennet, and started from Reading to ravage all the land of Wessex; and here Ethelred and his brother Al¬ fred fought and defeated them, Ethelred doing the praying and Alfred the fighting. In later years, Reading seems to have been re¬ garded as a handy place to run down to, when matters were becoming unpleasant in London. Parliament generally rushed off to Reading when¬ ever there was a plague on at Westminster; and in 1625 the Law followed suit, and all the courts were held at Reading. It must have been worth while having a mere ordinary plague now and then in London to get rid of both the lawyers and the Parliament. During the Parliamentary struggle, Reading was besieged by the Earl of Essex, and a quarter of a century later, the Prince of Orange routed King James’s troops there. * IQixxzz iptett itx a goat. 253 Henry I. lies buried at Reading, in the Bene¬ dictine abbey founded by him there, the ruins of which may still be seen; and, in this same abbey, great John of Gaunt was married to the Lady Blanche. At Reading lock we came up with a steam launch, belonging to some friends of mine, and they towed us up to within about a mile of Streat- ley. It is very delightful being towed up by a launch. I prefer it myself to rowing. The run would have been more delightful still, if it had not been for a lot of wretched small boats that were continually getting in the way of our launch, and, to avoid running down which, we had to be continually easing and stopping. It is really most annoying, the manner in which these row¬ ing boats get in the way of one’s launch up the river; something ought to be done to stop it. And they are so confoundedly impertinent, too, over it. You can whistle till you nearly burst your boiler before they will trouble them¬ selves to hurry. I would have one or two of them run down now and then, if I had my way, just to teach them all a lesson. The river becomes very lovely from a little above Reading. The railway rather spoils it near Tilehurst, but from Mapledurham up to Streat- ley it is glorious. A little above Mapledurham 254 gtoejc BXcu a 28 oat. lock, you pass Hardwick House, where Charles I. played bowls. The neighborhood of Pang- bourne, where the quaint little Swan Inn stands, must be as familiar to the habitues of the Art Exhibitions as it is to its own inhabitants. My friends’ launch cast us loose just below the grotto, and then Harris wanted to make out that it was my turn to pull. This seemed to me most unreasonable. It had been arranged in the morning that I should bring the boat up to three miles above Reading. Well, here we were, ten miles above Reading! Surely it was now their turn again. I could not get either George or Harris to see the matter in its proper light, however; so, to save argument, I took the sculls. I had not been pulling for more than a minute or so, when George noticed something black floating on the water, and we drew up to it. George leant over, as we neared it, and laid hold of it. And then he drew back with a cry, and a blanched face. It was the dead body of a woman. It lay very lightly on the water, and the face was sweet and calm. It was not a beautiful face; it was too pre¬ maturely aged-looking, too thin and drawn, to be that; but it was a gentle, lovable face, in spite of its stamp of pinch and poverty, and upon it was that look of restful peace that comes to the Jgfttteje gXcn in a gloat 255 faces of the sick sometimes when at last the pain has left them. Fortunately for us—we having no desire to be kept hanging about coroner’s courts—some men on the bank had seen the body too, and now took charge of it from us. We found out the woman’s story afterward. Of course it was the old, old vulgar tragedy. She had loved and been deceived—or had deceived herself. Anyhow, she had sinned—some of us do now and then—and her family and friends, naturally shocked and indignant, had closed their doors against her. Left to fight the world alone, with the mill¬ stone of her shame around her neck, she had sunk ever lower and lower. For a while she had kept both herself and the child on the twelve shill¬ ings a week that twelve hours’ drudgery a day procured her, paying six shillings out of it for the child, and keeping her own body and soul tch gether on the remainder. Six shillings a week does not keep body and soul together very unitedly. They want to get away from each other when there is only such a very slight bond as that between them; and one day, I suppose, the pain and the dull monotony of it all had stood before her eyes plainer than usual, and the mocking spectre had frightened 256 HJIxrjcjc |$Ut% in a |§joat. her. She had made one last appeal to friends, but against the chill wall of their respectability, the voice of the erring outcast fell unheeded; and then she had gone to see her child—had held it in her arms and kissed it, in a weary, dull sort of way, and without betraying any particular emo¬ tion of any kind, and had left it, after putting into its hand a penny box of chocolate she had bought it, and afterward, with her last few shillings, had taken a ticket and come down to Goring. It seemed that the bitterest thoughts of her life must have centered about the wooded reaches and the bright green meadows around Goring; but women strangely hug the knife that stabs them, and, perhaps, amidst the gall, there may have mingled also sunny memories of sweetest hours spent upon those shadowed deeps over which the great trees bend their branches down so low. She had wandered about the woods by the river’s brink all day, and then, when evening fell and the gray twilight spread its dusky robe upon the waters, she stretched her arms out to the silent river that had known her sorrow and her joy. And the old river had taken her into its gentle arms, and had laid her weary head upon its bosom, and had hushed away the pain. Thus had she sinned in all things—sinned in IJIivcc fjpUn itx a 3|jtrat. 257 living and in dying. God help her! and all other sinners, if any more there be. Goring on the left bank and Streatley on the right are both or either charming places to stay at for a few days. The reaches down to Pang- bourne woo one for a sunny sail or for a moon¬ light row, and the country round about is full of beauty. We had intended to push on to Wall¬ ingford that day, but the sweet, smiling face of the river here lured us to linger for a while; and so we left our boat at the bridge, and went up into Streatley, and lunched at the “Bull,” much to Montmorency’s satisfaction. They say that the hills on each side of the stream here once joined and formed a barrier across what is now the Thames, and that then the river ended there above Goring in one vast lake. I am not in a position either to contradict or affirm this statement I simply offer it. It is an ancient place, Streatley, dating back, like most river-side towns and villages, to British and Saxon times. Goring is not nearly so pretty a little spot to stop at as Streatley, if you have your choice; but it is passing fair enough in its way, and is nearer the railway in case you want to slip off without paying your hotel bill. 258 Jgfatteje pCm in a gxrat. CHAPTER XVII. We stayed two days at Streatley, and got our clothes washed. We had tried washing them ourselves, in the river, under George’s superin¬ tendence, and it had been a failure. Indeed it had been more than a failure, because we were worse oft after we had washed our clothes than we were before. Before we had washed them, they had been very, very dirty, it is true; but they were just wearable. After we had washed them— well, the river between Reading and Henley was much cleaner, after we had washed our clothes in it, than it was before. All the dirt contained in the river between Reading and Henley, we collected, during that wash, and worked it into our clothes. The washerwoman at Streatley said she felt she owed it to herself to charge us just three times the usual prices for that wash. She said it had not been like washing, it had been more in the nature of excavating.. We paid the bill without a murmur. The neighborhood of Streatley and Goring is a great fishing center. There is some excellent fishing to be had here. The river abounds in glxvjcje I^Xcu in a goat. 259 pike, roach, dace, gudgeon, and eels, just here; and you can sit and fish for them all day Some people do. They never catch them. I never knew anybody catch anything, up the Thames, except minnows and dead cats, but that has nothing to do, of course, with fishing! The local fisherman’s guide doesn’t say a word about catching anything. All it says is the place is “a good station for fishing;” and, from what I have seen of the district, I am quite prepared to bear out this statement. There is no spot in the world where you can get more fishing, or where you can fish for a longer period. Some fishermen come here and fish for a day, and others stop and fish for a month. You can hang on and fish for a year, if you want to: it will be all the same. The Angler’s Guide to the Thames says that “jack and perch are also to be had about here,” but there the Angler’s Guide is wrong. Jack and perch may be about there. Indeed, I know for a fact that they are. You can see them there in shoals, when you are out for a walk along the banks; they come and stand half out of the water with their mouths open for biscuits. Arnd, if you go for a bathe, they crowd round, and get in your way, and irritate you But they are not 260 %Jxxzz ©%j eu in a goat. to be “had” by a bit of worm on the end of a hook, nor anything like it—not they! I am not a good fisherman myself. I devoted a considerable amount of attention to the subject at one time, and was getting on, as I thought, fairly well; but the old hands told me that I should never be any real good at it, and advised me to give it up. They said that I was an ex¬ tremely neat thrower, and that I seemed to have plenty of gumption for the thing, and quite enough constitutional laziness. But they were sure I should never make anything of a fisher¬ man. I had not got sufficient imagination. They said that as a poet, or a shilling shocker, or a reporter, or anything of that kind, I might be satisfactory, but that, to gain any position as a Thames angler, would require more play of fancy, more power of invention than I appeared to possess. Some people are under the impression that all that is required to make a good fisherman is the ability to tell lies easily and without blushing; but this is a mistake. Mere bald fabrication is useless; the veriest tyro can manage that. It is in the circumstantial detail, the embellishing touches of probability, the general air of scrupu¬ lous—almost of pedantic—veracity, that the ex¬ perienced angler is seen. ghxzz ptm itx a gxrat. 261 Anybody can come in and say, “Oh, I caught, fifteen dozen perch yesterday evening;” or “Last Monday I landed a gudgeon, weighing eighteen pounds, and measuring three feet from the tip to the tail.” There is no art, no skill, required for that sort of thing. It shows pluck, but that is all. No; your accomplished angler would scorn to tell a lie, that way. His method is a study in itself. He comes in quietly, with his hat on, appro¬ priates the most comfortable chair, lights his pipe, and commences to puff in silence. He lets the youngsters brag away for a while, and then during a momentary lull, he removes the pipe from his mouth, and remarks, as he knocks the ashes out against the bars: “Well, I had a haul on Tuesday evening that it’s not much good my telling* anybody about.” “Oh! why’s that?” they ask. “Because I don’t expect anybody would be¬ lieve me if I did,” replies the old fellow calmly, and without even a tinge of bitterness in his tone, as here he fills his pipe, and requests the landlord to bring him three of Scotch, cold. There is a pause after this, nobody feeling suf¬ ficiently sure of himself to contradict the old 262 glxrcc gtXctx xn a |T.oat. gentleman. So he has to go on by himself with¬ out any encouragement. “No,” he continues thoughtfully; “I shouldn’t believe it myself if anybody told it to me, but it’s a fact, for all that. I had been sitting there all the afternoon and had caught literally nothing —except a few dozen dace and a score of jack; and I was just about giving it up as a bad job when I suddenly felt a rather smart pull at the line. I thought it was another little one, and I went to jerk it up. Hang me, if I could move the rod! It took me half an hour—half an hour, sir! to land that fish; and every moment I thought the line was going to snap! I reached him at last, and what do you think it was? A sturgeon! A forty pound sturgeon! Taken on a line, sir! Yes, you may well look surprised—I’ll have an¬ other three of Scotch, landlord, please.” And then he goes on to tell of the astonish¬ ment of everybody who saw it; and what his wife said, when he got home, and of what Joe Buggies thought of it. I asked the landlord of an inn up the river once, if it did not injure him, sometimes, listen¬ ing to the tales that the fishermen about there told him, and he said: “Oh, no; not now, sir! It did used to knock me over a bit at first, but, lor’ love you! me and ghvcz gXcn in a |6cat. 263 the missus we listens to ’em all day now. It’s what you’re used to* you know. It’s what you're used to.” I knew a young man once, he was a most con¬ scientious fellow, and, when he took to fly-fish¬ ing, he determined never to exaggerate his hauls by more than twenty-five per cent. “When I have caught forty fish,” said he, “then I will tell people that I have caught fifty, and so on. But I will not lie any more than that, be¬ cause it is sinful to lie.” But the twenty-five per cent plan did not work well at all. He never was able to use it. The greatest number of fish he ever caught in one day was three, and you can't add twenty-five per cent to three—at least, not in fish. So he increased his percentage to thirty-three- and-a-third; but that again, was awkward, when he had only caught one or two; so, to simplify matters, he made up his mind to just double the quantity. He stuck to this arrangement for a couple of months, and then he grew dissatisfied with it. Nobody believed him when he told them that he only doubled, and he, therefore, gained no credit that way whatever, while his moderation put him at a disadvantage among the other anglers. When he had really caught three small 264 $Ixx*cjc flm xtx a gxrat. fish, and said he had caught six, it used to make him quite jealous to hear a man, whom he knew for a fact had only caught one, going about tell¬ ing people he had landed two dozen. So, eventually, he made one final arrangement with himself, which he has religiously held to ever since, and that was to count each fish that he caught as ten, and to assume ten to begin with. For example, if he did not catch any fish at all, then he said he had caught ten fish—you could never catch less than ten fish by his sys¬ tem; that was the foundation of it. Then, if by any chance he really did catch one fish, he called it twenty, while two fish would count thirty, three forty, and so on. It is a simple and easily worked plan, and there has been some talk lately of its being made use of by the angling fraternity in general. In¬ deed, the Committee of the Thames Anglers’ As¬ sociation did recommend its adoption about two years ago, but some of the older members op¬ posed it. They said they would consider the idea if the number were doubled, and each fish counted as twenty. If ever you have an evening to spare, up the river, I should advise you to drop into one of the little village inns, and take a seat in the tap-room. You will be nearly sure to meet one or two old Q\xxzz in a |?oat. 265 rodmen, sipping their toddy there, and they will tell you enough fishy stories, in half an hour, to give you indigestion for a month. George and I—I don’t know what had become of Harris; he had gone out and had a shave, early in the afternoon, and had then come back and spent full forty minutes in pipeclaying his shoes, we had not seen him since—George and I, there¬ fore, and the dog, left to ourselves, went for a walk to Wallingford on the second evening, and, coming home, we called in at a little river-side inn, for a rest, and other things. We went into the parlor and sat down. There was an old fellow there, smoking a long clay pipe, and we naturally began chatting. He told us that it had been a fine day to-day, and we told him that it had been a fine day yes¬ terday, and then we all told each other that we thought it would be a fine day to-morrow; and George said the crops 'seemed to be coming up nicely. After that it came out, somehow or other, that we were strangers in the neighborhood, and that we were going away .the next morning. Then a pause ensued in the conversation, dur¬ ing which our eyes wandered round the room. They finally rested upon a dusty old glass case, fixed very high up above the chimney-piece, and 266 glW&e fpt .m in n gmtt. . containing a trout. It rather fascinated me, tha} trout; it was such a monstrous fish. In fact, at first glance, I thought it was a cod. “Ah!” said the old gentleman, following the direction of my gaze, “fine fellow that, ain’t he?” “Quite uncommon,” I murmured; and George asked the old man how much he thought it weighed. “Eighteen pounds six ounces,” said our friend, rising and taking down his coat. “Yes,” he continued, “it wur sixteen year ago, come the third o’ next month, that I landed him. I caught him just below the bridge with a minnow. They told me he wur in the river, and I said I’d have him, and so I did. You don’t see many fish that size about here now, I’m thinking. Good-night, gentlemen, good-night.” And out he went, and left us alone. We could not take our eyes off the fish after that. It really was a remarkably fine fish. We were still looking at it, Mien the local carrier, who had just stopped at the inn, came to the door of the room with a pot of beer in his hand, and lie also looked at the fish. “Good-sized trout, that,” said George, turning round to him. “Ah! you may well say that, sir,” replied the man; and then, after a pull at his beer, he added: |Wctx in a gjcrat, 267 m ‘‘Maybe you wasn’t here, sir, when that fish was caught?” ‘‘No,” we told him. We were strangers in the neighborhood. “Ah!” said the carrier, “then, of course, how should you? It was nearly five years ago that I caught that trout.” “Oh! was it you who caught it, then?” said L “Yes, sir,” replied the genial old fellow. “I caught him just below the lock—leastways, what was the lock then—one Friday afternoon; and the remarkable thing about it is that I caught him with a fly. I’d gone out pike-fishing, bless you, never thinking of a trout, and when I saw that whopper on the end of my line, blest if it didn’t quite take me aback. Well, you see, he weighed twenty-six pound. Good-night, gentlemen, good¬ night.” Five minutes afterward, a third man came in, and described how he had caught it early one morning, with bleak; and then he left, and a stolid, solemn-looking middle-aged individual came in, and sat down over by the window. None of us spoke for a while; but, at length, George turned to the new-comer, and said: “I beg your pardon, I hope you will forgive the liberty that we—perfect strangers in the neighborhood—are taking, but my friend and 268 Qhxzz |>%m xw a gxrai. myself would be so much obliged if you would tell us how you caught that trout up there.” “Why, who told you I caught that trout!” was the surprised query. We said nobody had told us so, but somehow or other we felt instinctively that it was he who had done it. “Well, it’s a most remarkable thing—most re¬ markable,’’answered the stolid stranger, laughing; “because, as a matter of fact, you are quite right. I did catch it. But fancy your guessing it like that. Dear me, it’s really a most remarkable thing.” And then he went on and tcM us how it had taken him half an hour to land it and how it had broken his rod. He said he had weighed it care¬ fully when he reached home, and it had turned die scale at thirty-four pounds. Pie went in his turn, and when he was gone, the landlord came in to us. We told him the various histories we had heard about his trout, and he was immensely amused, and we all laugli- ed very heartily. “Fancy Jim Bates and Joe Muggles and Mr. Jones and old Billy Maunders all telling you that they had caught it. Ha! ha! ha! Well, that is good,” said the honest old fellow, laughing heartily. “Yes, they are the sort to give it me, glxvejc fH&jetx in a goat* 269 to put up in my parlor, if they had caught it, they are! Ha! ha! ha!” And then he told us the real history of the fish. It seemed that he had caught it himself, years ago, when he was quite a lad; not by any art or skill, but by that unaccountable luck that appears to always wait upon a boy: when he plays the wag from school, and goes out fishing on a sunny afternoon, with a bit of string tied on the end of a tree. He said that bringing heme that trout had saved him from a whacking, and that even his schoolmaster had said it was worth the rule of three and practice put together. He was called out of the room at this point, and George and I again turned our gaze upon the fish. It really was a most astonishing trout. The more we looked at it, the more we marveled at it. It excited Georgv so much that he climbed up on the back of a chair to get a better view of it. And then the chair slipped, and George clutch¬ ed wildly at the trout-case to save himself, and down it came with a crash, George and the chair on top of it. “You haven’t injured the fish, have you?” I cried in alarm, rushing up. 270 $IXVJCC fjfcjetx in a gloat. “I hope not,” said George, rising cautiously and looking about. But he had. That trout lay shattered into a thousand fragments—I say a thousand, but they may have only been nine hundred. I did not count them. We thought it strange and unaccountable that a stuffed trout should break up into little pieces like that. And so it would have been strange and unac¬ countable, if it had been a stuffed trout, but it was not. That trout was plaster of Paris. CHAPTER XVIII. We left Streatley early the next morning, and pulled up to Culham, and slept under the canvas, in the backwater there. The river is not extraordinarily interesting be¬ tween Streatley and Wallingford. From Cleve you get a stretch of six and a half miles without lock. I believe this is the longest uninterrupted stretch anywhere above Teddington, and the Ox¬ ford Club make use of it for their trial eights. But however satisfactory this absence of locks f$tjetx itx a gxrut. 271 may be to rowing-men, it is to be regretted by the mere pleasure-seeker. For myself, I am fond of locks. They pleas¬ antly break the monotony of the pull. I like sit¬ ting in the boat and slowly rising out of the cool depths up into new reaches and fresh views; or sinking down, as it were, out of the world, and then waiting, while the gloomy gates creak, and the narrow strip of daylight between them widens tilL the fair smiling river lies full before you, and you push your little boat out of its brief prison on to the welcoming waters once again. They are picturesque little spots, these locks. The stout old lock-keeper, or his cheerful-looking wife, or bright-eyed daughter, are pleasant folk to have a passing chat with.* You meet other boats there, and river gossip is exchanged. The Thames would not be the fairyland it is without its flower-decked locks. Talking of locks reminds me of an accident George and I very nearly had one summer’s morning at Hampton Court. It was a glorious day, and the lock was crowd- *Or rather were. The Conservancy of late seems to have constituted itself into a society for the em¬ ployment of idiots. A good many of the new lock- keepers, especially in the more crowded portions of the river, are excitable, nervous old men, quite unfitted for their post. 272 Qixxzz ptm in a gjcrat. ed; and, as is a common practice up the river, a speculative photographer was taking a picture of us all as we lay upon the rising waters. I did not catch what was going on at first, and was, therefore, extremely surprised at noticing George hurriedly smooth out his trousers, ruffle up his hair, and stick his cap on in a rakish man¬ ner at the back of his head, and then, assuming an expression of mingled affability and sadness, sit down in a graceful attitude, and try to hide his feet. My first idea was that he had suddenly caught sight of some girl he knew, and I looked about to see who it was. Everybody in the lock seemed to have been suddenly struck wooden. They were all standing or sitting about in the most quaint and curious attitudes I have ever seen off a Japanese fan. All the girls were smiling. Oh, they did look so sweet! And all the fellows were frowning, and looking stern and noble. And then, at last, the truth flashed across me, and I wondered if I should be in time. Oufs was the first boat, and it would be unkind of me to spoil the man’s picture, I thought. So I faced round quickly, and took up a posi¬ tion in the prow, where I leant with careless grace upon the hitcher, in an attitude suggestive of agility and strength. I arranged my hair with a 3JItvcc gXcu in a goat. 273 curl over the forehead, and threw an air of tender wistfulness into my expression, mingled with a touch of cynicism, which I am told suits me. As we stood waiting for the eventful moment, I heard some one behind call out: “Hi! look at your nose.” I could not turn round to see what was the matter, and whose nose it was that was to be looked at. I stole a side glance at George’s nose! It was all right—at all events, there was nothing wrong with it that could be altered. I squinted down at my own, and that seemed all that could be expected also. “Look at your nose, you stupid ass!” came the same voice again, louder. And then another voice cried: “Push your nose out, can’t you, you—you two with the dog!” Neither George nor I dared to turn round. The man’s hand was on the cap, and the picture might be taken any moment. Was it us they were calling to? What was the matter with our noses? Why were they to be pushed out! But now the whole lock started yelling, and a stentorian voice from the back shouted: “Look at your boat, sir: you in the red and black caps. It’s your two corpses that will get taken in that photo, if you ain't quick.” 274 ghvcc fputx in a goat. We looked then, and saw that the nose of our boat had got fixed under the woodwork of the lock while the incoming water was rising all round it, and tilting it up. In another moment we should be over. Quick as thought, we each seized an oar, and a vigorous blow against the side of the lock with the butt-ends released the boat, and sent us sprawling on our backs. We did not come out well in that photograph, George and I. Of course, as was to be expected, our luck ordained it that the man should set his wretched machine in motion at the precise mo¬ ment that we were both lying on our backs with a wild expression of “Where am I? and what is it?” on our faces, and our four feet waving madly in the air. Our feet were undoubtedly the leading article in that photograph. Indeed, very little else was to be seen. They filled up the foreground en¬ tirely. Behind them, you caught glimpses of the other boats, and bits of the surrounding scenery; but everything and everybody else in the lock looked so utterly insignificant and paltry com¬ pared with our feet, that all the other people felt quite ashamed of themselves, and refused to sub¬ scribe to the picture. The owner of one steam launch, who had be¬ spoke six copies, rescinded the order on seeing JlTtvec fJXjeix in a goat, ,„.d the negative. He said he would take them if anybody could show him his launch, but nobody could. It was somewhere behind George’s right foot There was a good deal of unpleasantness over the business. The photographer thought we ought to take a dozen copies each, seeing that the photo was about nine-tenths us, but we de¬ clined. We said we had no objection to being photo’d full length, but we preferred being taken the right way up. Wallingford, six miles above Streatley, is a very ancient town, and has been an active center for the making of English history. It was a rude, mud-built town in the time of the Britons, who squatted there, until the Roman legions evicted them, and replaced their clay-baked walls by mighty fortifications, the trace of which Time has not yet succeeded in sweeping away, so well those old-world masons knew how .to build. But Time, though he halted at Roman walls, soon crumbled Romans to dust; and on the ground, in later years, fought savage Saxons and huge Danes, until the Normans came. It was a walled and fortified town up to the time of the Parliamentary War, when it suffered a long and bitter siege from Fairfax. It fell at last, and then the walls were razed. 276 ghvcc 2*%eu in a goat. From Wallingford up to Dorchester the neigh¬ borhood of the river grows more hilly, varied, and picturesque. Dorchester stands half a mile from the river. It can be reached by paddling up the Thames, if you have a small boat; but the best way is to leave the river at Day’s Lock, and take a walk across the fields. Dorchester is a delight¬ fully peaceful old place, nestling in stillness and silence and drowsiness. Dorchester, like Wallingford, was a city in an¬ cient British times; it was then called Caer Doren, “the city on the water.” In more recent times the Romans formed a great camp here, the fortifications surrounding which now seem like low, even hills. In Saxon days it was the capital of Wessex. It is very old, and it was very strong and great once. Now it sits aside from the stirring world, and nods and dreams. Round Clifton Hampden, itself a wonderfully pretty village, old-fashioned, peaceful, and dainty with flowers, the river scenery is rich and beauti¬ ful. If you stay the night on land at Clifton, you cannot do better than put up at the “Barley Alow.” It is, without exception, I should say, the quaint¬ est, most old-world inn up the river. It stands on the right of the bridge, quite away from the village. Its low-pitched gables and thatched roof and latticed windows give it quite a story-book glxtteje fpbetx in a gjcrat 277 appearance, while inside it is even still more onee-upon-a-timeyfied. It would not be a good place for the heroine of a modern novel to stay at. The heroine of a modern novel is always “divinely tall/’ and she is ever “drawing herself up to her full height.” At the “Barley Mow” she would bump her head against the ceiling each time she did this It would also be a bad house for a drunken man to put up at. There are too many surprises in the w r ay of unexpected steps down into this room and up into that: and as for getting upstairs to his bedroom, or ever finding his bed when he got up, either operation would be an utter impos- sibilitv to him. V V We were up early the next morning, as we wanted to be in Oxford by the afternoon. It is surprising how early one can get up, when camp¬ ing out. One does not yearn for “just another five minutes” nearly so much, lying wrapped up in a rug on the boards of a boat, with a Gladstone bag for a pillow, as one does in a feather bed. We had finished breakfast, and were through Clifton Lock by half-past eight. From Clifton to Culham the river banks are flat, monotonous, and uninteresting, but, after you get through Culham Lock—the coldest and 278 glmjc fptjetx xtx a guat* deepest lock on the river—the landscape im¬ proves. At Abingdon, the river passes by the streets. Abingdon is a typical country town of the smaller order—quiet, eminently respectable, clean, and desperately dull. It prides itself on being old, but whether it can compare in this respect with Wallingford and Dorchester seems doubtful. A famous abbey stood here once, and within what is left of its sanctified walls they brew bitter ale nowadays. In St. Nicholas Church, at Abingdon, there is a monument to Jack Blackwall and his wife Jane, who both, after leading a happy married life, died on the very same day, August 21, 1625; and in St. Heleifis Church, it is recorded that W. Lee, who died in 1637, “had in his lifetime issue from his loins two hundred lacking but three.” If you work this out you will find that Mr. W. Lee’s family numbered one hundred and ninety-seven. Mr. W. Lee—five times Mayor of Abingdon— was, no doubt, a benefactor to his generation, but I hope there are not many of his kind about in this overcrowded Nineteenth Century. From Abingdon to Nuneham Courteney is a lovely stretch. Nuneham Park is well worth a visit. It can be viewed' on Tuesdays and Thurs¬ days. Th«. house contains a fine collection of pic- g force gXrrt in a geaL 279 tures and curiosities, and the grounds are very beautiful. The pool under Sandford lasher, just behind the lock, is a very good place to drown yourself in. The undercurrent is terribly strong, and if you once get down into it you are all right. An obelisk marks the spot where two men have already been drowned while bathing there; and the steps of the obelisk are generally used as a diving-board by young men now who wish to see if the place really is dangerous. Iffley Lock and mill, a mile before you reach Oxford, is a favorite subject with the river-loving brethren of the brush. The real article, however, is rather disappointing, after the pictures. Few things, I have noticed, come quite up to the pic¬ tures of them, in this world. We passed through Iffley Lock at about half-past twelve, and then, having tidied up the boat and made all ready for landing, we set to work on our last mile. Between Iffley and Oxford is the most difficult bit of the river I know. You want to be born on that bit of water, to understand it. I have been over it a fairish number of times, but I have never been able to get the hang of it. The man who could row a straight course from Oxford to Iffley ought to be able to live comfortably, under one roof, with his wife, his mother-in-law, his elder 280 gfaw fptjetx in a gxrat. sister, and the old servant who was in the family when he was a baby. First the current drives* you on to the right bank, then on to the left, then it takes you into the middle, turns you around three times, and car¬ ries you up stream again, and always ends by trying to smash you up against a college barge. Of course, as a consequence of this, we got in the way of a good many other boats during the mile, and they in ours, and, of course, as a con¬ sequence of that, a good deal of bad language occurred. I don’t know why it should be, but everybody is always so exceptionally irritable on the river. Little mishaps, that you would hardly notice on dry land, drive you nearly frantic with rage when they occur on the water. When Harris or George makes an ass of himself on dry land I smile in¬ dulgently; when they behave in a chucklehead way on the river, I use most bloodcurdling lan¬ guage to them. When another boat gets in my way, I feel I want to take an oar and kill all the people in it. The mildest-tempered people, when on land, become violent and bloodthirsty when in a boat. I did a little boating once with a young lady. She was naturally of the sweetest and gentlest gtaixc fjftjeix in a goat. 281 disposition imaginable, but on the river it was quite awful to hear hen “Oh, drat the man!” she would exclaim, when some unfortunate sculler would get in her way; ‘'why don’t he look where he’s going?” And, “Oh, bother the silly old thing!” she would say indignantly, when the sail would not go up properly. And she would catch hold of it, and shake it quite brutally. Yet, as I have said, when on shore she was kind-hearted and amiable enough. The air of the river has a demoralizing effect upon one’s temper, and this it is, I suppose, which causes even bargemen to be sometimes rude to one another, and to use language which, no doubt, in their calmer moments they regret. CHAPTER XIX. We spent two very pleasant days at Oxford. There are plenty of dogs in the town of Oxford. Montmorency had eleven fights on the first day, and fourteen on the second, and evidently thought he had got to heaven. Among folk too constitutionally weak, or too constitutionally lazy, whichever it may be, to rel- 282 gfttcjc |%im in a goat. ish np-stream work, it is a common practice to get a boat at Oxford and row down. For the ener¬ getic, however, the up-stream journey is certainly to be preferred. It does not seem good to be always going with the current. There is more satisfaction in squaring one’s back, and fighting against it, and winning one’s way forward in spite of it—at least, so I feel when Harris and George are sculling and I am steering. To those who do contemplate making Oxford their starting-place, I would say, take your own boat—unless, of course, you can take some one else’s without any possible danger of being found out. The boats that, as a rule, are let for hire on the Thames above Marlow, are very good boats. They are fairly water-tight; and so long as they are handled with care, they rarely come to pieces, or sink. There are places in them to sit down on, and they are complete with all the nec¬ essary arrangements—or nearly all—to enable you to row them and steer them. But they are not ornamental. The boat you hire up the river above Marlow is not the sort of boat in which you can flash about and give yourself airs. The hired up-river boat very soon puts a stop to any nonsense of that sort on the part of its occupants. That is its chief—one may say, its only recommendation. gTxiejcc f&jctt in a goat. 283 The man in the hired up-river boat is modest and retiring. He likes to keep on the shady side, underneath the trees, and to do most of his traveling early in the morning or late at night, when there are not many people about on the river to look at him. When the man in the hired up-river boat sees any one he knows, he gets out on to the bank, and hides behind a tree. I was one of a party who hired an up-river boat one summer, for a few days’ trip. We had none of us ever seen the hired up-river boat be¬ fore ; and we did not know what it was when we did see it. We had written for a boat—a double-sculling skiff; and when we went down with our bags to the yard, and gave names, the man said: “Oh, yes; you’re the party that wrote for a double-sculling skiff. It’s all right. Jim, fetch round The Pride of the Thames.” The boy went, and reappeared five minutes afterward, struggling with an antediluvian chunk of wood, that looked as though it had been re¬ cently dug out of somewhere, and dug out care¬ lessly, so as to have been unnecessarily damaged in the process. My own idea, on first catching sight of the object, was that it was a Roman relic of some 284 QIxxjm |*%m xix a gxsat. sort,—relic of what I do not know, possibly of a coffin. The neighborhood of the upper Thames is rich in Roman relics, and my surmise seemed to me a very probable one; but our serious young man, who is a bit of a geologist, pooh-poohed my Ro¬ man relic theory, and said it was clear to the meanest intellect (in which category he seemed to be grieved that he could not conscientiously include mine) that the thing the boy had found was the fossil of a whale; and he pointed out to us various evidences proving that it must have belonged to the pre-glacial period. To settle the dispute, we appealed to the boy. We told him not to be afraid, but to speak the plain truth. Was it the fossil of a pre-Adamite whale, or was it an early Roman coffin? The boy said it was The Pride of the Thames. We thought this a very humorous answer on the part of the boy at first, and somebody gave him twopence as a reward for his ready wit; but when he persisted in keeping up the joke, as we thought, too long, we got vexed with him. “Come, come, my lad!” said our captain sharp¬ ly, “don’t let us have any nonsense. You take your mother’s washing-tub home again, and bring us a boat.” The boat-builder himself came up then, and gftccc pc.cn in a |3oat. 285 assured us, on his word, as a practical man, that the thing really was a boat—was, in fact, the boat, the “double-sculling skiff” selected to take us on our trip down the river. We grumbled a good deal. We thought he might, at least, have had it whitewashed or tarred ■—had something done to it to distinguish it from a bit of a wreck; but he could not see any fault in it. He even seemed offended at our remarks. He said he had picked us out the best boat in all his stock, and he thought we might have been more grateful. He said it, The Pride of the Thames, had been in use, just as it now stood (or rather as it now hung together), for the last forty years, to his knowledge, and nobody had complained of it be¬ fore, and he did not see why we should be the first to begin. We argued no more. We fastened the so-called boat together with some pieces of string, got a bit of wall-paper and pasted over the shabbier places, said our prayers, and stepped on board. They charged us thirty-five shillings for the loan of the remnant for six days; and we could have bought the thing out and out for four-and- sixpence at any sale of driftwood round the coast. 286 glxtjcjc |aptjcw in a goat. The weather changed on the third day,—oh! I am talking about our present trip now,—and we started from Oxford upon our homeward jour¬ ney in the midst of a steady drizzle. The river—with the sunlight flashing from its dancing wavelets, gilding gold and gray-green beech trunks, glinting through the dark, cool wood paths, chasing shadows o’er the shallows, dinging diamonds from the mill-wheels, throwing kisses to the lilies, wantoning with the weir’s white waters, silvering moss-grown walls and bridges, brightening every tiny townlet, making sweet each lane and meadow, lying tangled in the rushes, peeping, laughing, from each inlet, gleaming gay on many a far sail, making soft the air with glory—is a golden fairy stream. But the river—chill and weary, with the cease¬ less raindrops falling on its brown and sluggish waters, with a sound as of a woman weeping low in some dark chamber; while the woods, all dark and silent, shrouded in their mists of vapor, stand like ghosts upon the margin; silent ghosts with eyes reproachful, like the ghosts of evil actions, like the ghosts of friends neglected—is a spirit haunted water through the land of vain regrets. Sunlight is the life-blood of Nature. Mother Earth looks at us with such dull, soulless eyes, when the sunlight has died away from out of her. Jgtaeje fjfcjea in a gorai. 287 It makes us sad to be with her then; she does not seem to know us or to care for us. She is as a widow who has lost the husband she loved, and her children touch her hand, and look up into her eyes, but gain no smile from her. We rowed on all that day through the rain, and very melancholy work it was. We pretended, at first, that we enjoyed it. We said it was a change, that we liked to see the river under all its different aspects. We said we could not ex¬ pect to have it all sunshine, nor should we wish it. We told each other that Nature was beautiful, even in her tears. Indeed, Harris and I were quite enthusiastic about the business, for the first few hours. And we sang a song about a gypsy’s life, and how delightful a gypsy’s existence was!—free to storm and sunshine, and to every wind that blew!—■ and how he enjoyed the rain, and what a lot of good it did him; and how he laughed at people who didn’t like it. George took the fun more soberly, and stuck to the umbrella. We hoisted the cover before we had lunch, and kept it up all the afternoon, just leaving a little space in the bow, from which one of us could paddle and keep a lookout. In this way we made 288 Jgte&e pXew in a nine miles, and pulled up for the night a little be¬ low Day’s Lock. * I cannot honestly say that we had a merry evening. The rain poured down with quiet per¬ sistency. Everything in the boat was damp and clammy. Supper was not a success. Cold veal pie, when you don’t feel hungry, is apt to cloy. I felt I wanted white bait and a cutlet; Harris babbled of soles and white-sauce, and passed the remains of his pie to Montmorency, who declined it, and, apparently insulted by the offer, went and sat over at the other end of the boat by himself. George requested that we would not talk about these things, at all events, till he had finished his cold boiled beef without mustard. We played penny nap after supper. We played for about an hour and a half, by the end of which time George had won fourpence—George always is lucky at cards—and Harris and I had lost exactly twopence each. We thought we would give up gambling then. As Harris said, it breeds an unhealthy excitement when carried too far. George offered to go on and give us our revenge; but Harris and I de¬ cided not to battle any further against Fate. After that, we mixed ourselves some toddy, and sat round and talked. George told us about *. man he had known who had come up the river cwn years ago, and who had slept out in a damp Qftxcc gsXjetx in a goat. 289 boat on just such another night as that was, and it had given him rheumatic fever, and nothing was able to save him, and he died in great agony ten 'days afterward. George said he was quite a young man, and was engaged to be married. He said it was one of the saddest things he had ever known. And that put Harris in mind of a friend of his, who had been in the Volunteers, and who had slept out under canvas one wet night down at Aldershot, “on just such another night as this,” said Harris, and he had woke up in the morning a cripple for life. Harris said he would introduce us both to the man when he got back to town; it would make our hearts bleed to see him. This naturally led to some pleasant chat about sciatica, fevers, chills, lung diseases, and bron¬ chitis; and Harris said how very awkward it would be if one of us were taken seriously ill in the night, seeing how far away we were from a doctor. There seemed to be a desire for something frol¬ icsome to follow upon this conversation, and in a weak moment I suggested that George should get out his banjo, and see if he could not give us a comic song. I will say for George that he did not want any pressing. There was no nonsense about having 290 gjtojcjc pUu in a 32 oat. left his music at home, or anything of that sort, He at once fished out his instrument, and com¬ menced to play “Two Lovely Black Eyes.” I had always regarded “Two Lovely Black Eyes” as rather a commonplace tune, until that evening. The rich vein of sadness that George extracted from it quite surprised me. The desire that grew upon Harris and myself, as the mournful strains progressed, was to fall upon each other’s necks and weep; but by great effort we kept back the rising tears, and listened to the wild yearnful melody in silence. When the chorus came we made a desperate effort to be merry. We refilled our glasses and joined in; Harris, in a voice trembling with emo¬ tion, leading, and George and I following a few words behind: “Two lovely black eyes; Oh! what a surprise! Only for telling a man he was wrong, Two—” There we broke down. The unutterable pathos of George’s accompaniment to that “two” we were, in our then state of depression, unable, to bear. Harris sobbed like a little child, and the dog howled till I thought his heart or his jaw must surely break. Qftxzz fptjet* in a gxrat. 291 George wanted to go on with another verse. He thought when he had got a little more into the tune, and could throw more “abandon/’ as it were, into the rendering, it might not seem so sad. The feeling of the majority, however, was opposed to the experiment. There being nothing else to do, we went to bed, —that is, we undressed ourselves, and tossed about at the bottom of the boat for some three or four hours. After which, we managed to get some fitful slumber until five a. m., when we all got up and had breakfast. The second day was exactly like the first. The rain continued to pour down, and we sat, wrap¬ ped up in our mackintoshes, underneath the can¬ vas, and drifted slowly down. One of us—I forget which one now, but I rather think it was myself—made a few feeble at- V tempts during the course of the morning to work up the old gypsy foolishness about being children of Nature and enjoying the wet; but it did not go down well at all. That— “I care not for the rain, not I!” was so painfully evident, as expressing the senti¬ ments of each of us, that to sing it seCTfted un¬ necessary. On one point we were all agreed, and that was 292 'ghxzz g&jett in a that, come wliat might, we would go through with this job to the bitter end. We had come out for a fortnight’s enjoyment on the river, and a fort* night’s enjoyment on the river we meant to have. If it killed us! well, that would be a sad thing for our friends and relations, but it could not be helped. We felt that to give in to the weather in a climate such as ours would be a most dis¬ astrous precedent. “It’s only two days more,” said Harris, “and we are young and strong. We may get over it all right, after all.” At about four o’clock we began to discuss our arrangements for the evening. We were a little past Goring then, and we decided to paddle on to Pangbourne, and put up there for the night. “Another jolly evening!” murmured George. We sat and mused on the prospect. We should be in at Pangbourne by five. We should finish dinner at, say, half-past six. After that we could walk about the village in the pouring rain until bed-time; or we could sit in a dimly-lit bar-parlor and read the almanac. “Why, the Alhambra would be almost more lively,” said Harris, venturing his head outside the cover for a moment and taking a survey of the sky. 298 put* in a gxrat ‘With a little supper at the ——* to follow,” I added, half unconsciously. “Yes, it’s almost a pity we’ve made up our minds to stick to this boat,’’ answered Harris; and then there was silence for a while. “If we hadn’t made up our minds to contract our certain deaths in this bally old coffin,” ob¬ served George, casting a glance of intense malevolence over the boat, “it might be worth while to mention that there’s a tram leaves Pang- bourne, I know, soon after five, which would just land us in town in comfortable time to get a chop, and then go on to the place you mentioned afterward.” Nobody spoke. We looked at one another, and each one seemed to see his own mean and guilty thoughts reflected in the faces of the oth¬ ers. In silence, we dragged out and overhauled the Gladstone. We looked up the river and