BAEDEKER’S GUIDE BOOKS. 
 
 BELGIUM and HOLLAND , with 8 Maps and 18 Plans. 
 
 Sixth Edition. 1S81. r 
 
 5 marks. 
 
 — - 
 
 E 
 
 P 
 
 P 
 
 A. 
 
 PALESTINE and SYRIA, with 18 Maps, 43 Plans, 
 
 1 Panorama of Jerusalem, and 10 Views. 1876. 20 marks. 
 
 THE TRAVELLER’S MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, in 
 
 English German, French, and Italian. 3 marks. 
 
 November 1881. 
 
OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 Of ILLINOIS 
 
 <> 2 . 
 
 l ©Bo 
 
SOUTHERN ITALY 
 
 AND 
 
 SICILY. 
 
COMPARATIVE MONEY-TABLE. 
 
 Approximate Equivalents. 
 
 Italian. 
 
 American. 
 
 English. 
 
 
 Francs. 
 
 Centesimi. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Gents. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Shillings. 
 
 Pence. 
 
 
 5 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 h 
 
 — 
 
 25 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 2 1| 2 
 
 — 
 
 50 
 
 — 
 
 10 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 75 
 
 — 
 
 15 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 7 1 U 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 20 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 9*4 
 
 2 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 40 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 71/4 
 
 3 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 60 
 
 — 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 80 
 
 — 
 
 3 
 
 2i| 2 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 6 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 — 
 
 4 
 
 93/4 
 
 7 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 40 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 7i/ 2 
 
 8 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 60 
 
 — 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 80 
 
 — 
 
 7 
 
 2i/ 2 
 
 10 
 
 — 
 
 2 
 
 — . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 — 
 
 20 
 
 — 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 16 
 
 — 
 
 25 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 100 
 
 — 
 
 20 
 
 — 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 COMPARATIVE TABLE 
 
 of 
 
 Neapolitan and Sicilian Miglie with Kilometres 
 
 and. 
 
 English Miles. 
 
ITALY. 
 
 HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS 
 
 BY 
 
 K. BAEDEKER. 
 
 'THIRD PART: 
 
 SOUTHERN ITALY AND SICILY, 
 
 with excursions to the 
 
 LIPARI ISLANDS, MALTA, SARDINIA, TUNIS, AND CORFU. 
 
 With 24 Maps and 14 Flans. 
 
 Seventh Edition, Kemodelled and Augmented. 
 
 LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER. 
 
 LONDON : DULAU AND GO., 37 SOHO SQUARE, W. 
 1880. 
 
 All Rights Reserved , 
 
‘Go, little book, God send tnee good passage, 
 And specially let this be thy prayere 
 Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
 Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, 
 Thee to correct in any part or all*. 
 
 Chaucer. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The objects of the Handbook for Italy, which consists 
 of three volumes, each complete in itself, are to supply the 
 traveller with the most necessary information regarding the 
 history and culture of the people he is about to visit, to 
 render him as independent as possible of the services of 
 guides and valets-de-place, to protect him against extortion, 
 and in every way to aid him in deriving enjoyment and 
 instruction from his tour in one of the most fascinating 
 countries in the world. These volumes will also, it is hoped, 
 be the means of saving the traveller many a trial of temper ; 
 for there is probably no country in Europe where the patience 
 is more severely taxed than in some parts of Italy. 
 
 The whole work is based on the Editor’s personal ac- 
 quaintance with the places described, most of which he has 
 repeatedly and carefully explored. As, however, changes 
 are constantly taking place, he will highly appreciate any 
 communications with which travellers may kindly favour 
 him, if the result of their own observation. The information 
 already received frpm numerous correspondents, which he 
 gratefully acknowledges , has in many cases proved most 
 serviceable. 
 
 The Handbook for Southern Italy and Sicily, which now 
 appears for the seventh time, has been thoroughly revised 
 and considerably augmented, and the information regarding 
 Naples and its environs in particular has been carefully veri- 
 fied. For the description of Pompeii the Editor is indebted 
 to Prof. Nissen of Marburg. The article on Ancient Art by 
 Prof. P. Kekule of Bonn has been adapted for the use of 
 English travellers with the kind assistance of Mr. J. A. 
 Crowe , the eminent historian of art, and will be found sug- 
 gestive by visitors to the museums of Naples and Palermo or 
 the ruins of Pompeii. The description of Sicily owes much 
 of its value to the co-operation of Prof. Holm of Palermo, 
 who has enriched it with interesting archaeological notices. 
 The insertion of excursions to the Lipari Islands, Malta, Sar- 
 dinia, Tunis (Carthage), Corfu, and Athens does not add ma- 
 terially to the bulk of the volume, and will be acceptable to 
 many travellers. 
 
vi 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 The Maps and Plans, on which special care has been 
 bestowed, and which have been nearly doubled in number, 
 will abundantly suffice for the use of the ordinary traveller. 
 The Plan of Naples, like those of Rome and other large cities 
 described in Baedeker’s Handbooks, is divided into sections 
 with a view to facilitate reference. The Map of Sicily, 
 drawn by Prof. Kiepert of Berlin, is a reproduction on a 
 reduced scale of the new map of the Italian Ordnance Survey ; 
 the rivers which flow all the year round are printed in blue, 
 those which are generally dry in brown. 
 
 Heights are given in English feet (1 Engl. ft. = 0,3048 
 metre), and Distances in English miles (comp. p. ii). Pop- 
 ulations are stated in accordance with the official returns 
 of the Direzione Generale di Statistica for 1877 ; in some cases 
 they may appear exaggerated, from the fact that the returns 
 apply to the political districts in which the respective towns 
 and villages are situated. 
 
 Hotels. In no country does the treatment which the 
 traveller experiences at hotels vary so much as in Italy, 
 and attempts at extortion are perhaps nowhere so out- 
 rageous. The inns of S. Italy and Sicily, with the exception 
 of those of Naples and a few other towns, are sadly behind 
 the requirements of the age; but the Editor has indicated 
 by asterisks those which he has reason to consider compar- 
 atively respectable , clean , and reasonable. The charges 
 in the most frequented places have a constant tendency to 
 rise, but those of the last few years are approximately 
 stated in the Handbook for the traveller’s guidance. 
 
 To hotel -proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor 
 begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and cour- 
 tesy towards travellers forms the sole passport to his com- 
 mendation, and that advertisements of every kind are strictly 
 excluded. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Introduction. Page 
 
 I. Travelling Expenses. Money xi 
 
 II. Period of Tour. Language xii 
 
 III. Passports. Custom-house. Luggage .... xiii 
 
 IV. Public Safety. Begging xiv 
 
 V. Intercourse with Italians xv 
 
 VI. Conveyances xvi 
 
 VII. Hotels xix 
 
 VIII. Restaurants, Cafes, etc xx 
 
 IX. Sights, Theatres, Shops . . . xxi 
 
 X. Reckoning of Time xxii 
 
 XI. Postal Arrangements xxiii 
 
 XII, Climate and Health of Naples xxiii 
 
 XIII. History of Ancient Art, by Prof. R. Kekule . . xxv 
 History of the Kingdom of Naples xliv 
 
 Route Routes - 
 
 1. From Rome to Naples by Railway 1 
 
 2. From Rome to Naples by the Pontine Marshes, Terracina, 
 
 Gaeta, and Capua 10 
 
 3. From Leghorn to Naples (by Sea) 19 
 
 4. Naples 20 
 
 Preliminary Observations : 
 
 Arrival. Hotels, Pensions, Restaurants, Cafes, etc. . . . 20-24 
 
 Bankers. Consuls 24 
 
 Carriages, omnibuses, boats 24, 25 
 
 Baths, physicians, etc 26 
 
 Shops . . . 26, 27 
 
 Theatres. Post Office, Telegraph Office. Railways, Steam- 
 boats. Traffic. 28 
 
 Newspapers. Festivals 29 
 
 English Church 29 
 
 Duration of Stay and Disposition of Time ^ 29 
 
 Remarks on the Situation and Characteristics of Naples 30 
 
 I. Side next the Nca, to the E. of the Pizzofalcone (from 
 
 the Largo della Vittoria to the Piazza del Mercato) 34 
 
 II. Toledo. Capodimonte (from the Largo della Vittoria 
 through the Strada Chiaja and the Toledo to Capodi- 
 monte. Strada Foria) 41 
 
 III. The Old Town. E. Quarters , between the Toledo and 
 the Harbour (from the Strada Medina through the 
 Str. Montoliveto to the Str. S. Trinith; Porta 
 Capuana, Cemeteries, Str. de’ Tribunali) ... 45 
 
viii CONTENTS. 
 
 Route Page 
 
 IV. The Museum 59 
 
 Y. Modern Quarters : The Chiaja , Villa Nazionale , Corso 
 
 Vittorio Emanuele. — Castel S. Elmo .... 83 
 
 YI. Hill of Posilipo. Camaldoli 89 
 
 5. Western Environs of Naples — Pozzuoli, Baise, Misenum, 
 
 Cumae 94 
 
 6. Procida and Ischia 106 
 
 7. From Naples to Pompeii (and Salerno). Herculaneum. 
 
 La Favorita 112 
 
 8. Mount Vesuvius 116 
 
 9. Pompeii 123 
 
 10. Castellamare, Sorrento, and Capri 149 
 
 11. From Naples to Salerno, Paestum, and Amalfi . . . 162 
 
 1. Corpo di Cava 164 
 
 2. From Amalfi to Sorrento . . 174 
 
 12. From Naples to Nola and Avellino 175 
 
 E. and S. Districts of S. Italy. 
 
 13. From Ancona to Foggia (Brindisi) 178 
 
 1. From Foggia to Manfredonia 182 
 
 2. From Foggia to Lucera 183 
 
 From Foggia to Candela. Melfi. Yenosa 183 
 
 14. From (Ancona) Foggia to Naples 185 
 
 15. From Pescara to Solmona and Aquila in the Abruzzi . 188 
 
 From Solmona to Caianiello (Naples) 191 
 
 16. From Terni to Aquila in the Abruzzi 193 
 
 17. From Aquila to Avezzano and Roccasecca (Naples) . . 194 
 
 18. From Foggia to Brindisi and the Apulian Peninsula . . 198 
 
 19. From (Naples) Eboli to Potenza and Torremare on the 
 
 Gulf of Taranto 206 
 
 20. From (Naples) Ponte S. Cono to Reggio 207 
 
 21 . From Bari to Taranto 212 
 
 22. From Taranto to Reggio 216 
 
 23. From Naples to Messina (by Sea). . . . * . . . 222 
 
 24. From Naples to Palermo (by Sea) 223 
 
 Sicily. 
 
 General Information 225 
 
 Geography and Statistics 227 
 
 Historical Notice 237 
 
 1. Political History 237 
 
 2. History of Civilisation and Art 243 
 
 25. Palermo 250 
 
 26. Environs of Palermo 265 
 
 a. La Cuba. Monreale. S. Martino. La Zisa 265 
 
 b. Monte Pellegrino The Favorita 268 
 
 c. Bagheria. Solunto . • 270 
 
 d. S. Maria di Gesii 271 
 
 Island of Ustica 272 
 
MAPS. 
 
 ix 
 
 Route 
 
 27. From Palermo to Segesta, Castelvetrano, and Selinunto 
 
 28. From Calatafimi to Trapani, Marsala, and Castelvetrano 
 
 29. From Castelvetrano (Selinunto) to Girgenti .... 
 
 From Palermo to Sciacca by Corleone 
 
 30. From Palermo to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle . . 
 
 31 . Girgenti 
 
 32. From Palermo and Girgenti to Catania 
 
 From Castrogiovanni to Catania by Caltagirone .... 
 
 33. From Girgenti to Syracuse by Palma, Licata, Terranova, 
 
 Modica (Val d’Ispica), and Palazzolo 
 
 From Modica to Syracuse by Noto 
 
 34. From Palermo to Messina by the Coast 
 
 35. Messina 
 
 36. The Lipari Islands 
 
 37. From Messina to Catania. Taormina 
 
 38. From Taormina to Catania round the W. side of Mt. 
 
 iEtna 
 
 39. Catania 
 
 40. Mount ^Etna i 
 
 41 . From Catania to Syracuse 
 
 42. Syracuse 
 
 Page 
 
 272 
 
 279 
 
 284 
 
 285 
 
 286 
 
 289 
 
 294 
 
 298 
 
 299 
 
 303 
 
 304 
 
 310 
 
 317 
 
 320 
 
 327 
 
 330 
 
 335 
 
 342 
 
 344 
 
 43. Excursion to Malta 358 
 
 44. Sardinia 361 
 
 a. Cagliari and Environs 365 
 
 b. From Cagliari to Sassari 368 
 
 c. Sassari. Porto Torres 371 
 
 d. From Cagliari to Nuoro, with Excursions into the Mountains 
 
 of La Barbagia 372 
 
 45. Excursion to Tunis. Carthage 373 
 
 46. From Brindisi to Corfu 380 
 
 47. From Naples or from Brindisi (Corfu) to Athens . . . 383 
 
 Index 389 
 
 List of Artists 405 
 
 Maps. 
 
 1. Map of Italy (1 : 3,000,000), facing title-page. 
 
 2. General Map of the Environs of Naples (1 : 400,000), be- 
 tween pp. 94, 95. 
 
 3. Wbstbrn Environs of Naples (1:100,000), between pp. 
 96, 97. 
 
 4. The Islands of Procida and Ischia (1 : 100,000), p. 106. 
 
 5. Eastern Environs of Naples. Mt. Vesuvius (1 : 100,000), 
 between pp. 112, 113. 
 
 6. Peninsula of Sorrento, and 7. Island of Capri, between 
 pp. 150, 151. 
 
 8. Environs of La Cava, Salerno, and Amalfi (1 : 100,000), 
 between pp. 166, 167. 
 
X 
 
 PLANS. 
 
 9. District bftwebn Salerno and P^estum (1 : 286,000), p. 167. 
 
 10. Environs of Taranto (1 : 50,000), p. 213. 
 
 11. District of Metapontum (1 : 50,000), p. 217. 
 
 12. Environs of Palermo , and 13. Environs of Trapani 
 ( 1:250,000), p. 265. 
 
 14. District between Calatafimi and Segesta (1:50,000), 
 p. 274. 
 
 15. District of Selinunto (1 : 50,000), p. 275. 
 
 16. Environs of Girgenti (1 : 50,000), p. 289. 
 
 17. Environs of Messina (1 : 400,000), p. 310. 
 
 18. Environs of Taormina (1 : 50,000), p. 322. 
 
 19. Mount .Etna (1 : 300,000), between pp. 334, 335. 
 
 20. Environs of Syracuse (1 : 50,000), between pp. 344, 345. 
 
 21. Malta, Gozzo,Comino, and 22. Environs of Tunis( 1:500,000), 
 p. 358. 
 
 23. Map of Sardinia (1 : 1,350,000), p. 361. 
 
 24. Map of Sicily with the Liparl Islands (1:800,000), after 
 the Index. 
 
 Plans. 
 
 1. Naples, between pp. 20, 21. — 2, 3. Museo Nazionale at 
 Naples, ground-floor p. 72, upper floor p. 73. — 4. Pozzuoli, 
 p. 97. — 5. Pompeii, between pp. 124, 125. — 6. House of 
 Pansa at Pompeii, p. 129. — 7. Pjestum, p. 167. — 8. Palermo, 
 p. 250. — 9, 10. Museo Nazionale at Palermo, ground-floor p. 261, 
 upper floor p. 262. — 11. Acropolis of Selinunto, p. 276. — 
 12. Messina and Environs, between pp. 310, 311. — 13. Catania, 
 p. 330. — 14. Syracuse, modern town, p. 344. 
 
 Abbreviations. 
 
 R. = room; B. = breakfast; D. = dinner; S. = supper; L. = 
 light; A. = attendance. — N. == north, northern, etc.; S. = 
 south, southern, etc. ; E. = east, etc. ; W. = west, etc. — r. = 
 right; 1. = left; min. = minute; hr. = hour. — M. = English 
 mile ; ft. = Engl, foot ; fr. = franc, c. = centime. 
 
 The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates 
 the year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of 
 a place shows its height above the sea-level. The number of 
 miles placed before the principal places on railway-routes and high- 
 roads indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route. 
 
 Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 “Thou art the garden of the world, the home 
 Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree; 
 
 E'en in thy desert, what is like to thee? 
 
 Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste 
 More rich than other climes 1 fertility, 
 
 Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced 
 
 With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced. 
 
 Byron. 
 
 I. Travelling Expenses. Money. 
 
 Expenses. The cost of a tour in Southern Italy and Sicily 
 depends of course on the traveller’s means and habits, hut it may 
 he stated generally that his expenses need not exceed those in- 
 curred in the more frequented parts of the continent. The average 
 expenditure of a single traveller may be estimated at 25 francs 
 per day, or about half that sum when a prolonged stay is made 
 at one place, while those who are acquainted with the language 
 and habits of the country may reduce their expenses to still nar- 
 rower limits. Persons travelling as members of a party also effect 
 a considerable saving by sharing the expense of guides, carriages, 
 and other items. When, however, ladies are of the party, the ex- 
 penses are always unavoidably greater. 
 
 Money. The French monetary system is now used throughout 
 the whole of Italy. The franc (lira or franco) contains 100 
 centesimi ; 1 fr. 25 c. = 1 s. = 1 German mark = ife Austrian 
 florin. A piece of 5 c. is called a soldo (or sow), and as the lower 
 classes often keep their accounts in soldi, the traveller may find 
 it useful to familiarise himself with this mode of reckoning. See 
 also the Money Table, opposite the title-page. 
 
 Banknotes. Since the introduction of a paper currency during 
 the war of 1866 , at a compulsory rate of exchange, gold and 
 silver coins have almost entirely disappeared from ordinary cir- 
 culation , and bulky bundles of small notes have taken their 
 place. For these the purses used in most other countries are 
 of course unsuitable, but one adapted for the purpose may be 
 purchased in Italy for l 1 /^"^ fr. ; in addition to which a strong 
 pouch for copper will be found useful. A law passed in 1874 for 
 the regulation of the paper currency restricts the right of issuing 
 notes to six of the principal banks, which now issue in common the 
 Biglietti Consorziali , current throughout the whole of Italy. The 
 
xii 
 
 PLAN OF TOUR. 
 
 traveller should he on his guard against the forged imitations of 
 these notes which are occasionally met with. 
 
 Exchange. Gold and silver are worth considerably more than 
 Italian banknotes of nominally the same value. Of late years the 
 gain in exchanging the precious metals, or English banknotes or 
 circular notes, for Italian paper has averaged 10-15 per cent. A 
 napoleon, for example, realises 22-23 fr., and a sovereign 27*/2- 
 28 3 / 4 fr. If the traveller is required to make a payment in gold 
 he is of course entitled to decline receiving banknotes in exchange, 
 unless the difference in value be taken into account. In exchang- 
 ing gold or English notes for Italian paper at a money-changer’s 
 (Gambia valuta 0, notes of small amount should be stipulated for, 
 as the railway officials sometimes make difficulties about changing 
 a note of large amount. Those money-changers who publicly exhibit 
 a list of the current rates of exchange are the most satisfactory. 
 The exchange is effected more advantageously at Naples that at 
 any of the other towns. 
 
 Best Money foe, the Tour. Before entering Italy, the traveller 
 should obtain a moderate supply of French Gold (one Napoleon 
 = 22-23 fr. in paper), which is procured in England , France, or 
 Germany on more advantageous terms than in Italy. Sovereigns 
 are received at, or nearly at, their full value (27y2 - 28 3 / 4 fr.) by 
 most of the hotel-keepers, as well as by the money-changers in 
 the principal towns and resorts of travellers, but not in remote 
 districts. The Circular Notes issued by the English banks are 
 very convenient for the transport of large sums, and always realise 
 the full current exchange. English and German banknotes also 
 realise more than their nominal equivalents. 
 
 Money Orders payable in Italy, for sums not exceeding 10L, 
 are now granted by the English Post Office at the following rates : 
 not exceeding 2 L, 9 d.; 5 L, Is. 6 d. ; 7 L, 2s. 3 d . ; 10Z., 3s. These 
 are paid in gold. The identity of the receiver must be guaranteed 
 by two well-known residents. The charge for money-orders granted 
 in Italy and payable in England is 40 c. per 1 1. sterling. 
 
 II. Period of Tour. Language. 
 
 Season. The season selected must of course depend on the 
 traveller’s convenience , but the best time for Naples , and par- 
 ticularly for other parts of S. Italy and Sicily is spring, from the 
 end of March to the end of May, or autumn, from the middle 
 of September to the end of November. The rainy winter months 
 had better be devoted to Rome. The hot season may be spent 
 at some of the charming summer resorts in the environs of Na- 
 ples, such as Sorrento, Castellamare , Ischia, and La Cava, but 
 is unfavourable for travelling in the South of Italy. The 
 scenery indeed is then in perfection , and the long days are 
 
LANGUAGE. 
 
 xiii 
 
 hailed with satisfaction by the enterprising traveller ; but he will 
 soon experience the enervating effects of exposure to the fierce 
 rays of an Italian sun. These effects are produced, not so much by 
 the intensity, as by the protracted duration of the heat, the sky 
 being frequently cloudless, and not a drop of rain falling for several 
 months in succession , until the first showers of autumn again 
 refresh the parched atmosphere about the end of August. 
 
 At p. 30 the traveller will find various plans for excursions 
 in the environs of Naples , and at p. 226 are others for a tour 
 in Sicily. The other districts described in the Handbook are 
 rarely visited by ordinary tourists , but those who desire to ex- 
 plore them, whether in search of the picturesque, or for scien- 
 tific purposes, will have no difficulty in framing an itinerary. 
 
 Language. The time and labour which the traveller has 
 bestowed on the study of Italian at home will be amply repaid 
 as he proceeds on his journey, and more particularly in Southern 
 Italy and Sicily. It is quite possible to travel in the regions 
 around Naples and Palermo with a knowledge of a little French 
 only, but in this case the traveller cannot conveniently deviate 
 from the beaten track, and is moreover constantly exposed to gross 
 extortion. Those , therefore , who desire to derive instruction 
 from their tour and to confine their expenditure within moderate 
 limits will find a slight acquaintance with the language f of the 
 country indispensable. 
 
 III. Passports. Custom-house. Luggage. 
 
 Passports. Passports are not required in Italy, but it is un- 
 wise not to be provided with one of these documents, as it may 
 occasionally prove useful. Registered letters, for example, are not 
 delivered to strangers unless they exhibit a passport as a guar- 
 antee of their identity. In the remote districts, too, where the 
 public safety still demands rigorous supervision, especially in the 
 southern provinces , the traveller who cannot show his creden- 
 
 t ‘ Baedeker's Manual of Conversation in four Languages (English, 
 French, German , and Italian ), with Vocabulary, etc .’ (Stereot. Edit.) will 
 be found serviceable for tbis purpose. With the addition of a pocket-dic- 
 tionary, the traveller will soon he able to make himself understood. — 
 A few words on the pronunciation may be acceptable to persons unac- 
 quainted with the language. C before e and i is pronounced like the 
 English ch ; g before e and i like j. Before other vowels c and g are 
 hard. Ch and gh, which generally precede e or *, are hard. Sc before e 
 or i is pronounced like sh; gn and gl between vowels like nyi and lyi. 
 The vowels a, e , i, o, u are pronunced ah, a, ee, o, oo. — In addressing 
 persons of the educated classes ‘Ella'* or ‘Lei 1 , with the 3rd pers. sing., 
 should always be employed (addressing several at once, ‘loro 1 with the 
 3rd pers. pi.). ‘Yoi 1 is used in addressing waiters, drivers, etc., ‘tp 1 
 in familiar conversation only by those who are proficient in the language, 
 ‘Voi 1 is the common mode of address employed by the Neapolitans, but is 
 generally regarded as inelegant or uncourteous. 
 
xlv 
 
 PUBLIC SAFETY. 
 
 tials is liable to detention. The Italian police authorities, how- 
 ever, will he found uniformly civil and obliging. 
 
 Custom House. The examination of luggage which takes 
 place at the Italian custom - houses on the arrival of the traveller 
 by land or sea, even when the vessel has come from another 
 Italian port, is usually very lenient. Tobacco and cigars are the 
 articles most sought for. Weapons of all kinds are liable to con- 
 fiscation (see below). The ‘dazio consumo’, or municipal tax 
 levied on comestibles in most of the Italian [towns, seldom of 
 course requires to be paid by ordinary travellers. An assurance 
 that their luggage contains nothing liable to duty generally suffices 
 to prevent detention. 
 
 Luggage. If possible, luggage should never be sent to Italy 
 by goods’ train, and then only through the medium of a trustworthy 
 goods-agent, to whom the keys must be forwarded. As a rule 
 the traveller will find it advisable, and less expensive, never to 
 part from his luggage , and always to superintend the custom- 
 house examination in person. 
 
 IV. Public Safety. Begging. 
 
 Travelling in the neighbourhood of Naples and many other 
 regions of Southern Italy is now hardly attended with greater 
 hazard than in any of the northern European countries. The 
 traveller should, however, avoid the poorer and less frequented 
 parts of large towns, particularly of Naples, after nightfall. Most 
 of the high-roads, and even the less frequented districts, may also 
 be pronounced safe, especially for unpretending travellers. Tem- 
 porary associations of freebooters are indeed occasionally formed, 
 even in the most secure districts, for some predatory enterprise, 
 but the attacks of such bands are generally directed against wealthy 
 inhabitants of the country, who are known to be travelling with 
 large sums of money, and seldom against strangers, with whose 
 movements and finances such marauders are not likely to be ac- 
 quainted. The Brigantaggio , properly so called, is now almost 
 entirely rooted out, the only traces of it still found being in some 
 parts of Sicily. It is , however, a purely local evil , which it is 
 always easy to avoid. The reports of predatory attacks which are 
 sometimes current are generally greatly exaggerated. For in- 
 formation as to the safety of the roads the traveller should apply 
 to the officials , or to the Carabinieri , or gensdarmes (who wear 
 a black uniform, with red facings, and cocked hats), a respectable 
 and trustworthy corps. 
 
 Weapons cannot legally be carried without a licence. For the 
 ordinary traveller they are a mere burden, and in the case of a ren- 
 contre with brigands they only serve greatly to increase the danger. 
 
 Begging, which was countenanced and even encouraged by 
 the old system of Italian politics, still continues to be one of those 
 
INTERCOURSE WITH ITALIANS. 
 
 xv 
 
 national nuisances to which the traveller must habituate himself. 
 At Naples the evil has been to a great extent suppressed under 
 the new regime, hut in many of the small towns it is still nearly 
 as rife as ever. The best mode of getting rid of importunate ap- 
 plicants is to bestow a donation of 2 c. or at most 5 c., or else 
 firmly to decline giving with — ‘niente’, or a gesture of disapproval. 
 
 Y. Intercourse with Italians. 
 
 Travelling in Italy, and particularly in the southern pro- 
 vinces, differs essentially in some respects from that in France, 
 Germany, and Switzerland, chiefly owing to the almost invariable 
 necessity for bargaining with innkeepers, cab-drivers, boatmen, 
 and others of a similar class. The system of fixed prices is being 
 gradually introduced, but it gains ground much more slowly in 
 Southern than in Northern and Central Italy. 
 
 The traveller is regarded by the classes in question as their 
 natural and legitimate prey. Deception and imposition are 
 considered very venial offences by Italians of the lower orders, 
 and they regard success in these arts as a proof of superior 
 sagacity. The traveller who complacently submits to extortion 
 is therefore less respected than one who stoutly resists barefaced 
 attempts upon his credulity. On the principal routes, and especially 
 in Naples, the insolence of this mercenary fraternity has attained 
 to such an unexampled pitch, that the traveller is often tempted 
 to doubt whether such a thing as honesty is known in Italy; but 
 a more intimate acquaintance with the people and their habits 
 will satisfy him that his misgivings apply to the above classes 
 only, and not to the community generally. 
 
 In Italy the pernicious custom of demanding considerably more 
 than will ultimately be accepted is universal; but a knowledge 
 of the custom , which is based upon the presumed ignorance of 
 one of the contracting parties, tends greatly to mitigate the evil. 
 Where tariffs and fixed charges exist, they should be carefully 
 consulted. In other cases where an average price is established by 
 custom, the traveller should make a precise bargain with respect 
 to the service to be rendered, and never rely on the equity of 
 the other party. The preliminaries of a bargain once adjusted, 
 the traveller will often find the people with whom he has to 
 deal more trustworthy than he anticipated. 
 
 Individuals who appeal to the generosity of the stranger, or to 
 their own honesty , or who , as rarely happens, are offended by 
 manifestations of distrust, may well be answered in the words of 
 the proverb, £ patti chiari , amicizia lunga\ In the following 
 pages the average prices of hotel accommodation and other items 
 are stated with all possible accuracy, and although liable to 
 fluctuation , will often prove a safeguard against gross extortion. 
 
xvi 
 
 CONVEYANCES. 
 
 The equanimity of the traveller’s own temper will greatly assist 
 him if involved in a dispute or bargain , and he should pay no 
 attention whatever to vehement gesticulations or an offensive 
 demeanour. The slighter his knowledge of the Italian language 
 is, the more careful should he be not to involve himself in a war 
 of words, in which he must necessarily be at great disadvantage. 
 
 It need hardly be observed that the representations of drivers, 
 guides, and others of a similar class, with whom even the in- 
 habitants of the place often appear to act in concert, are unworthy 
 of the slightest reliance. In such cases the traveller may gen- 
 erally depend on the data in the Handbook. Where farther in- 
 formation is required, it should be sought from printed tariffs, from 
 fellow-travellers, gensdarmes, respectably dressed persons present, 
 occasionally from landlords , but seldom or never from waiters. 
 
 The traveller should always be provided with an abundant 
 supply of copper coin in a country where trifling donations 
 are incessantly in demand. Drivers, guides, porters, and donkey- 
 attendants invariably expect , and often demand as a right , a 
 gratuity (buona mano , mancia , da here , bottiglia, caffe , fumata), 
 varying according to circumstances from 2-3 sous to a franc or 
 more, in addition to their hire. The traveller need not scruple 
 to limit his donations to the smallest possible sums, as liberality 
 is often a fruitful source of annoyance and embarrassment. The 
 bestowal of half-a-franc when two sous would have sufficed may 
 be fraught with disagreeable results to the injudicious donor; 
 the fact speedily becomes known, and he is besieged by a host 
 of other applicants whose demands it becomes utterly impossible 
 to satisfy. 
 
 VI. Conveyances, f 
 
 Railways. With the exception of the Rome and Naples and the 
 Naples and Avellino lines, which belong to the Ferrovie Romane , 
 the whole of the railways of S. Italy and Sicily are in the hands of 
 the Ferrovie Meridionali company. The first-class carriages are 
 seldom better than the second on most of the German and Swiss 
 lines. l Si cambia convoglw means ‘change carriages’. 
 
 ‘ Fare il biglietto ’ signifies ‘to take one’s ticket’. The ticket- 
 office is usually open half-an-hour before the departure of the 
 train, but the issue of the tickets is often so extremely slow that 
 travellers with luggage should always endeavour to be among the 
 first applicants. The exact fare should , if possible, be kept in 
 
 t The most trustworthy time-tables are those contained in the Indi- 
 cators Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate , della Navigazione e Telegrafia del 
 Regno d' Italia, published at Turin monthly by the Fratelli Pozzo (with 
 map, price 1 fr.), with which every traveller should be provided. Smaller 
 collections of time-tables are also published at Naples , in Sicily, and 
 elsewhere for local use (10-50 c.). 
 
CONVEYANCES. 
 
 xvii 
 
 readiness in order that farther delay may he avoided. The wait- 
 ing-rooms are kept closed until half-an-hour before the departure 
 of the train. By a law passed on 14th Oct. 1866, a tax of 5 c. 
 is imposed on each rail way- ticket. Except at Naples and a few 
 other large stations, passengers do not give up their tickets until 
 they leave the station (where uscita is usually called out to attract 
 their attention). 
 
 The traveller is recommended to ascertain the weight of his 
 luggage, if possible, before going to the station, in order to guard 
 against imposition. Luggage may be booked to any station whether 
 the passenger accompanies it or not, and the traveller is thus en- 
 abled to send his luggage to his final destination while he himself 
 breaks his journey at pleasure. No luggage is allowed free, except 
 what is taken by the passenger into his carriage, which must not 
 exceed 20 kilogrammes (about 44 lbs. Engl.) in weight. Porters 
 who convey luggage to and from the carriages expect a few sous 
 where there is no fixed tariff. Travellers who make a short stay 
 only at any station may deposit their luggage at the luggage-office 
 (dare in deposito , or depositare). 
 
 Circular Tickets are issued on the N. Italian and Roman rail- 
 ways only (the latter extending as far as Naples), but not on the 
 S. Italian lines. A list of the various circular tours may be con- 
 sulted in the ‘Indicatore Ufficiale’. Through-tickets to Naples, 
 Brindisi, etc., may be obtained in England and in Germany. 
 
 Steamboats. A voyage on the Mediterranean or Adriatic is 
 almost inseparable from a tour in Southern Italy. If the vessel 
 plies near the coast, the voyage is often entertaining ; and if the 
 open sea is traversed, the magnificent Italian sunsets, lighting up 
 the deep blue water with their crimson rays, present a scene not 
 easily forgotten. Rough weather is not very often to be appre- 
 hended in summer. 
 
 Tickets should be purchased by the traveller in person at the office 
 of the company. The ticket is furnished with the purchaser's name and 
 destination, the name of the vessel, and the hour of departure. First and 
 second class family-tickets, for not fewer than three persons, are issued 
 by all the companies at a reduction of 20 per cent on the passage-money, 
 but not on the cost of food. A child of 2-10 years pays half-fare, but in 
 this case must share the berth of its attendant. Two children are entitled 
 to a berth for themselves. — Enquiry should be made beforehand as to 
 the punctuality of the vessel, as it sometimes happens that the shipment 
 and unshipment of goods prolong the voyage for a day or more beyond 
 the advertised time. 
 
 The First Class saloons and berths are comfortably and elegantly 
 fitted up , those of the Second tolerably. Second-class passengers, like 
 those of the first, have free access to every part of the deck. Officers of 
 the Italian and French armies, up to and including those of the rank of 
 captain, are entitled to second-class berths only. When ladies are of the 
 party it is of course advisable to travel first-class. 
 
 Luggage. First-class passengers are allowed TO kilogrammes (156 lbs. 
 Engl.), second-class 45 kilogr. (100 lbs.), but articles not intended for per- 
 sonal use are prohibited. 
 
 Food of good quality and ample quantity is generally included in the 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. b 
 
xviii 
 
 CONVEYANCES. 
 
 first and second-class fares. DijeHner ct la fourchette , served at 10, con- 
 sists of 3-4 courses , table-wine , and coffee. Dinner is a similar repast 
 between 5 and 6 o’clock. Passengers who are too ill to partake of these 
 repasts are provided with lemonade , etc. , gratuitously. Refreshments 
 may of course be procured at other hours on payment. 
 
 Fees. The steward expects 1 fr. for a voyage of 12-24 hrs., but more 
 if the passenger has given unusual trouble. 
 
 Embarkation. Passengers should be on board an hour before the 
 advertised time of starting. The charges for conveyance to the steamboat 
 (usually 1 fr. for each person with luggage) are fixed by tariff at all the 
 seaports, and will be found in the Handbook. Passengers should there- 
 fore avoid all discussions on the subject with the boatmen, and simply 
 direct them to row ‘al Vaticano’, ‘alia Bella Venezia’, or whatever the 
 name of the vessel may be. On the way, the boatmen often make demands 
 extravagantly in excess of the tariff, such as, ‘Signore, sono cinque lire!’ 
 — to which the passenger may simply reply, ‘avanti!’ On arriving at 
 the vessel, payment should not be made until the traveller with all his 
 luggage is deposited on deck. The wild gesticulations of the boatman, 
 who has perhaps calculated upon the credulity of his passenger, but re- 
 ceives no more than the fare fixed by tariff (which is ample remune- 
 ration), may be enjoyed with serenity from the deck, a ‘terra sacra’ on 
 which disputes are strictly prohibited. 
 
 The passenger gives up his ticket on board, receives the number of 
 his berth,, superintends the stowing away of his luggage, and finally repairs 
 to the deck to observe the progress of the vessel as it quits the harbour, 
 of which a fine view is generally obtained. 
 
 Diligences. Vetture Corrieri are the swifter conveyances which 
 carry the mails , and accommodate two or three passengers only 
 at high fares. Diligenze , the ordinary stage-coaches, convey tra- 
 vellers with tolerable rapidity, and generally for the same fares 
 as similar vehicles on other parts of the continent. They are in 
 the hands of private speculators, and where several run in com- 
 petition the more expensive are to he preferred. When ladies 
 are of the party the coupe (one-third dearer) should if possible 
 be secured. The drivers and hostlers generally expect a few soldi 
 at the end of each stage. 
 
 Carriages. Those who travel in a hired carriage of their own 
 are of course much more independent than diligence-passengers. 
 On the more frequented routes a carriage with one horse may gener- 
 ally be hired for 3 / 4 -l fr., and on the less frequented for V2“ 3 /4 fr- 
 per English mile. 
 
 Walking Tours. An Italian never walks if he can possibly 
 drive ; to him it is an inscrutable mystery how walking can afford 
 pleasure. In the more frequented districts, however, such as the 
 environs of Naples, the inhabitants are accustomed to this mania of 
 travellers from the north. Walking excursions in other parts of 
 Italy also have their peculiar attractions, and among other advan- 
 tages that of procuring for the pedestrian the enviable reputation 
 of being a pittore , or needy individual from whom little is to be 
 extorted. 
 
 Prolonged and fatiguing walking-tours, such as are undertaken 
 in more northern climates, will be found impracticable in Italy. 
 Cool and clear weather should if possible be selected, and ex- 
 
HOTELS. 
 
 xix 
 
 posure to the sirocco studiously avoided. The height of summer 
 is totally unsuitable for tours of this kind. 
 
 Riding. A horse ( cavallo ), mule ( mulo ), or donkey (sommdro ; 
 Neapol. ciucio ; Sicil. vettura , applied to all three animals), between 
 which the difference of expense is trifling, often affords a pleasant 
 and cheap mode of travelling, especially in mountainous districts, 
 where the attendant (pedone) also acts as a servant for the time 
 being. Side-saddles for ladies are also generally procurable. A 
 bargain should be made previously , tutto compreso , a gratuity 
 being added if the traveller is satisfied. 
 
 VII. Hotels. 
 
 First Class Hotels, comfortably fitted up, are to be found at 
 Naples and some of the places in its vicinity, at Brindisi, Palermo, 
 Messina, Catania, and Acireale, the landlords of many of them being 
 Swiss or Germans. Rooms 2 1 / 2 -5fr., bougie 75 c. -1 fr., attendance 
 1 fr., table d’hote 4-6 fr., and so on. Families, for whose reception 
 the hotels are often specially fitted up, should make an agreement 
 with regard to pension (8-10 fr. per day for each person). Visitors 
 are expected to dine at the table d’hote ; otherwise they are charged 
 more for their rooms, or are informed that they are engaged by 
 other travellers. French is spoken everywhere. Cuisine a mixture 
 of French and Italian. — The numerous Pensions in or near 
 Naples, often kept by English or German ladies, are usually com- 
 fortable, clean, and moderate. Passing travellers are received at 
 many of them even for a day or two. 
 
 The Second Class Inns, as in Northern and Central Italy, gener- 
 ally have a trattoria in connection with the house. Room 
 light and attendance 1 fr. per day. Enquiry as to charges, however, 
 should always be made beforehand ; and in bargaining for a room 
 the ‘servizio e candela’ should not be forgotten. An extortionate 
 bill may even be reduced though no previous agreement has been 
 made, but this is never effected without long and vehement dis- 
 cussions. 
 
 Attendance, exclusive of boots and commissionnaire, is usually 
 charged in the bill at the best hotels. In the smaller inns it is 
 generally included in the charge for rooms ; but if not, 1 fr. per 
 day may be divided between the waiter and the facchino, or less 
 for a prolonged stay. Copper coins are never despised by such 
 recipients. 
 
 The popular idea of cleanliness in Southern Italy is behind the age, 
 dirt being perhaps neutralised in the opinion of the natives by the bril- 
 liancy of their climate. The traveller will rarely suffer from this short- 
 coming in hotels and lodgings of the [best class ; but those who quit the 
 beaten track must be prepared for privations. In the village-inns the 
 pig ( animate nero) is a privileged inmate , and the poultry are freely ad- 
 mitted. Iron bedsteads should if possible be selected, as being less in- 
 fested by the enemies of repose. Insect-powder ( polvere di Persia , or 
 Keating’s ; better procured before leaving home) or camphor should be 
 
 b* 
 
XX 
 
 RESTAURANTS. 
 
 plentifully sprinkled on the beds and on the traveller’s clothing in places 
 of doubtful cleanliness. The zanzdre , or mosquitoes , are a source of 
 great annoyance, and even of suffering, in summer and autumn. Windows 
 should always be carefully closed before a light is introduced into the 
 room. Light muslin curtains (zanzarieri) round the beds, masks for the 
 face, and gloves are used to ward off the attacks of these pertinacious 
 intruders. The burning of insect-powder over a spirit-lamp is also re- 
 commended, and pastilles for the same purpose may be purchased at the 
 principal chemists’. A weak solution of carbolic acid is efficacious in 
 allaying the irritation caused by the bites. 
 
 A list of the Italian names of the ordinary articles of underclothing 
 (la biancheria) will be useful in dealing with the washerwoman: shirt 
 (linen, cotton, woollen), la camisca (di tela , di cotone , di lana); collar, il 
 collar e; cuff, il manichino; drawers, le mutande ; woollen undershirt, una 
 giuba di Jianella; petticoat, la sottana ; stocking, la calza ; sock, lo scap- 
 pino ; handkerchief (silk), il fazoletto (di seta). To give out to wash, dare 
 a bucato (di bucato , newly washed); washing-list, nota; washerwoman, 
 laundress, la lavandaja , la stiratrice. 
 
 VIII. Restaurants , Cafes. 
 
 Restaurants (trattorie) are chiefly frequented by Italians, 
 and by travellers unaccompanied by ladies. Dinner may be obtain- 
 ed a la carte at any hour between 12 and 7 or 8 p. m., for l^-^fr. ; 
 or a repast (pasto) may be ordered at the fixed price of 3-5 fr. for 
 each person. The waiters expect a gratuity of 2-5 soldi, or about 
 1 soldo for each franc of the bill. The diner who desires to keep 
 his expenses within reasonable limits should avoid ordering dishes 
 
 not included in the bill of fare. 
 
 List of the ordinary dishes at 
 
 Minestra , or Zuppa , soup. 
 
 Constant, broth or bouillon. 
 
 Zuppa. alia Santt, soup with green 
 vegetables and bread. 
 
 Riso con piselli, rice-soup with peas. 
 Risotto , a kind of rice-pudding (rich). 
 Maccaroni al burro , with butter; al 
 pomidoro, or alia Napolitana, with 
 tomatas, see below. 
 
 Manzo , beef. 
 
 Lesso or bollito , boiled meat. 
 
 Fritto, fried meat. 
 
 Frittura mista , liver , brains , arti- 
 chokes, etc., fried together. 
 Frittata, omelette. 
 
 Arrosto , roasted meat. 
 
 Bistecca, beefsteak. 
 
 Coscietto, loin. 
 
 Arrosto di vitello, or di mongana , 
 roast-veal. 
 
 Testa di vitello , calf’s head. 
 
 Ftgato di vitello, calf’s liver. 
 
 Costoletta or braccioletta di vitello, 
 veal-cutlet. 
 
 Patate , potatoes. 
 
 Quaglia , quail. 
 
 Tordo, field-fare. 
 
 Lodola, lark. 
 
 S/oglia, a kind of sole. 
 
 the Italian restaurants : — 
 Antepasto, principi alia tavola , or 
 piattini, hot relishes. 
 
 Funghi , mushrooms (often too rich). 
 Presciutto, ham. 
 
 Salami, sausage. 
 
 Polio, or pollastro , fowl. 
 
 Gallotta, turkey. 
 
 Umidi, meat with sauce. 
 
 Stufatino, ragout. 
 
 Erbe or legumi, vegetables. 
 
 Carciofi, artichokes. 
 
 Piselli, peas. 
 
 Lenticchie, lentils. 
 
 Cavoli fiori, cauliflower. 
 
 Fave, beans. 
 
 Fagiuolini, French beans. 
 
 Sale, salt. 
 
 Pepe, pepper. 
 
 Mostarda, simple mustard. 
 
 Senctpe, hot mustard. 
 
 Osiriche , oysters (good in winter 
 only). 
 
 Frutta or Giardinetto, fruit-desert. 
 Crostata di frutti, fruit-tart, 
 
 Crostata di pasta sfoglia , a kind of 
 pastry. 
 
 Fragole, strawberries. 
 
 Pera, pear. 
 
 Pomi or mele, apples. 
 
CAFfiS. 
 
 XXI 
 
 Persiche , peaches. 
 
 TJva , hunch of grapes. 
 
 Limone , lemon. 
 
 Anmcfo or Portogallo , orange. 
 
 Pane francese, bread made with yeast 
 (the Italian is without). 
 
 Finocchio , root of fennel. 
 
 Formaggio , or in S. Italy caccio, 
 cheese. 
 
 Fmo rosso or wero, red wine ; bianco , 
 white; asciutto , dry; choice, sweet; 
 riwo paese , wine of the country. 
 
 The Maccaroni of Naples is much esteemed , but is generally hard, 
 and should therefore be ordered ‘ben cotti\ It is usually flavoured with 
 pomi d'oro (tomatas) , of which the Neapolitans are very fond. Sea-fish 
 and ragosta , a kind of lobster, excellent. Shell-fish-soup (zuppa di von- 
 gole ), a good but indigestible dish. 
 
 Cafes are frequented for breakfast and luncheon, and in the 
 evening by numerous consumers of ices. Cafe noir (Caffe nero) 
 is most commonly drunk (15-20 c. per cup). Caffe latte is coffee 
 mixed with milk before served (20-30 c.) ; or caffe e latte , i. e. 
 with the milk served separately, may be preferred (30-40 c.). 
 The usual viands for lunch are ham, sausages, cutlets, and eggs 
 ( uovadabere , soft; toste, hard; uova al piatto, fried). 
 
 Ices ( sorbetto , or gelato) of every conceivable variety are 
 supplied at the cafes, particularly at Naples, at 30-90 c. per por- 
 tion ; or half-a-portion ( mezza ) may generally be ordered. Granita , 
 or half-frozen ice ( limonata , of lemons; aranciata , of oranges; 
 di caffe , of coffee), is chiefly in vogue in the forenoon. The 
 waiter (cameriere), whose accuracy in giving change is not always 
 to be relied on, expects a fee of 5-10 c. 
 
 Cigars in Italy are a monopoly of Government, and bad. The prices 
 of the home-made cigars ( Scelti Romani , Virginias , Vevays , Cavours , 
 Napolitani , etc.) vary from 5 to 10 c. Good imported cigars may be bought 
 at the best shops in the large towns for 25-60 c. — Passers-by are at 
 liberty to avail themselves of the light burning in every tobacconist's, 
 without making any purchase. 
 
 IX. Sights, Theatres, Shops. 
 
 Churches are open in the morning till 12 or 12.30, and gener- 
 ally again from 2-4 to 7 p.m. Visitors may inspect the works of 
 art even during divine service , provided they move about noise- 
 lessly, and keep aloof from the altar where the clergy are officiating. 
 The verger (sagrestano or nonzolo) receives a fee of ^2 fr. ° r up- 
 wards, if his services are required. 
 
 Museums, picture-galleries , and other collections are usually 
 open from 10 to 3 o’clock. By a law of 1875 all the collections 
 which belong to government are open on week-days at a charge of 
 1 fr., and on Sundays gratis. They are closed on public holidays. 
 
 The Museo Nazionale at Naples, for instance, is closed on New Year’s 
 Day, Epiphany (6th Jan.), the king’s birthday (14th Mar.), Easter Sunday, 
 Ascension Day, Corpus Christi, Festa dello Statuto (first Sunday in June), 
 Day of SS. Peter & Paul (29tli June), Assumption of the Virgin (15th 
 Aug.), Birth of the Virgin (8th Sept.), St. Januarius (14th Sept.), All 
 Saints’ Day (1st Nov.), Feast of the Conception (8tli Dec.), and on Christ- 
 mas Day. 
 
 Theatres. The performances at the larger theatres, beginning 
 at 8, 8.30, or 9, and ending at midnight or later, consist ex- 
 clusively of operas and ballets, the first act of an opera being 
 
RECKONING OF TIME. 
 
 xxii 
 
 usually succeeded by a ballet of three or more acts. The pit (platea), 
 to which holders of the ordinary biglietto d'ingresso are admitted, 
 is the usual resort of the men. For the reserved seats (scanni 
 chiusiy sedie chiuse , poltrone , posti distinti ) and boxes (palco) ad- 
 ditional tickets must be taken. Ladies of course engage a box, or 
 at least reserved seats. The former must always be secured in 
 advance. — A visit to the smaller theatres, where dramas and 
 comedies are acted, is recommended for the sake of familiarising 
 the ear with the language. Performances in summer take place 
 in the open air. — The theatre is a favourite evening resort 
 of the Italians, and silence during the performance of the music 
 is never very strictly observed. 
 
 Shops rarely have fixed prices. As a rule two-thirds or three- 
 quarters of the price asked should be offered (comp. p. 26). The 
 same rule applies to artizans , drivers, and others. l Non volete ? J 
 (then you will not?) is a remark which generally has the effect of 
 bringing the matter to a speedy adjustment. Purchases should 
 never be made by the traveller when accompanied by a valet-de- 
 place. These individuals, by tacit agreement, receive at least 10 
 per cent of the purchase-money, which of course comes out of the 
 purchaser’s pocket. 
 
 X. Reckoning of Time. 
 
 The old Italian reckoning from 1 to 24 o’clock is now disused 
 in all the larger towns, except by the lower classes, but is still 
 almost universally employed in the country, especially in Sicily. 
 The ordinary reckoning of other nations is termed ora francese. 
 
 The moment of the sun’s disappearance below the horizon is 
 ‘half past 23 o’clock’ ; the twilight lasts about half-an-hour, after 
 which it is ‘24 o’clock’, or the close of the day, when ‘Ave Maria’ 
 
 
 By Ita: 
 
 our 
 
 noon 
 
 is 
 
 1. time 
 
 our 
 
 midnt. 
 
 is 
 
 Ave Maria 
 or 24 o’cl. 
 is our 
 
 
 By Ita 
 
 our 
 
 noon 
 
 is 
 
 1. time 
 
 our 
 
 midnt 
 
 is 
 
 Ave Maria 1 
 or 24 o’cl. 1 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 Jan. 1 — 12. 
 
 19 
 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 July 1—12. 
 
 16 
 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 
 13—31. 
 
 183| 
 
 |4 
 
 63 / 4 
 
 5i|4 
 
 13-31. 
 
 16i 
 
 < 
 
 4i(4 
 
 73, 
 
 (« 
 
 Feb. 1—15. 
 
 18 1 ! 
 
 I 2 
 
 6^2 
 
 51(2 
 
 Aug. 1—15. 
 
 16i 
 
 2 
 
 41)2 
 
 7i 
 
 2 
 
 16-24. 
 
 18 1 ! 
 
 [4 
 
 61/4 
 
 53| 4 
 
 16—25. 
 
 163 
 
 4 
 
 43 L 
 
 71/4 
 
 25-28. 
 
 18 
 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 26—31. 
 
 17 
 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 
 March 1 — 5. 
 
 18 
 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 Sept. 1 — 5. 
 
 17 
 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 
 6-15. 
 
 173 
 
 4 
 
 53| 4 
 
 6i| 4 
 
 6-16. 
 
 17i| 4 
 
 5i| 4 
 
 63 
 
 4 
 
 16—26. 
 
 17i 
 
 2 
 
 5i| 2 
 
 6 l | 2 
 
 17-27. 
 
 171/2 
 
 51/2 
 
 61 
 
 2 
 
 27—31. 
 
 17i 
 
 4 
 
 5i| 4 
 
 63 | 4 
 
 28—30. 
 
 173, 
 
 1 4 
 
 53)4 
 
 6i 
 
 4 
 
 April 1 — 10. 
 
 17i 
 
 4 
 
 5i|4 
 
 63/4 
 
 Oct. 1—10. 
 
 173/ 4 
 
 53U 
 
 6i 
 
 4 
 
 11 — 20 . 
 
 17 
 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 11 — 20 . 
 
 18 
 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 
 21—30. 
 
 163 | 4 
 
 43/4 
 
 7i|4 
 
 21—31. 
 
 181/4 
 
 6!| 4 
 
 53| 
 
 [4 
 
 May 1 — 15. 
 
 16i 
 
 I 2 
 
 4i| 2 
 
 71/2 
 
 Nov. 1—15. 
 
 18ij 
 
 ; 2 
 
 6 M 2 
 
 5 1 ! 
 
 '2 
 
 16-31. 
 
 16i 
 
 |4 
 
 4i 4 
 
 73/4 
 
 16—31. 
 
 183 
 
 
 63/4 
 
 5i 
 
 4 
 
 June 1 — 30. 
 
 16 
 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 Dec. 1—31. 
 
 19 
 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 
CLIMATE. HEALTH. 
 
 xxiii 
 
 is rung. The following hours are usually called ‘un ora di notte’, 
 ‘due ore di notte’, etc. This troublesome mode of calculation 
 would necessitate a daily alteration of every time-piece in the 
 kingdom, but it is thought sufficiently accurate to alter the 
 hour of Ave Maria by a quarter of an hour about once a fort- 
 night. The accompanying table shows the Italian compared with 
 the ordinary hours. 
 
 XI. Postal Arrangements. 
 
 Post Office. The address of letters, whether poste restante (Ital. 
 ferma in posta ), or to the traveller’s hotel, should in all cases be 
 simple and distinctly legible , all superfluous titles being omitted. 
 In asking for letters it is advisable to show one’s visiting-card, and 
 to see that a proper search is made among the poste restante letters. 
 
 Postage-stamps (francobolli) are sold at many of the tobacco- 
 shops. A letter of 15 grammes p /2 oz *> weight of about 3 soldi) 
 to any of the countries included in the postal union 25 c. ; post- 
 card (cartolina po stale) 10 c. ; book-post (stampe sotto fascia) 5 c. 
 per 50 grammes; registering ( raccomandazione ) 25 c. 
 
 Letters by town -post 5 c.; throughout Italy 20 c. prepaid, 
 30 c. unpaid; post-cards 10 c., with card for answer attached 15 c. 
 
 In the larger towns the post-office is open daily (including 
 Sundays and holidays) from 9 a. m. to 10 p. m. 
 
 Telegram of 20 words to Great Britain 10 (London 9) fr., 
 France 4, Germany 5, Switzerland 3, Austria 3 or 4, Belgium 5, 
 Denmark 7 4 / 2 9 Russia 11, Norway 8^2 > Sweden 8 fr. — To 
 America from 3 3 / 4 fr. per word upwards, according to the distance. 
 
 In Italy, 15 words 1 fr.; with special haste (telegrammi urgenti ) 
 5 fr. ; each additional word 10 or 50 c. — Registered telegrams may 
 be sent at double charges. 
 
 XII. Climate and Health of Naples. 
 
 Climate. The hills in the vicinity of Naples only afford it par- 
 tial protection against the winds. The Posilipo and the heights of 
 S. Elmo and Capodimonte shelter it tolerably well on the N.W. 
 and N. ; but the N.E. (Tramontana), S.E . (Scirocco), and S.W. 
 (Libeccio) winds are opposed by no such natural barrier. The alter- 
 nation of these air-currents from the N. and S. exercises the most 
 material influence upon the temperature of the different seasons 
 at Naples , and is the usual cause of the extreme variations which 
 sometimes occur in the course of a single day. The month of Sep- 
 tember and the first half of October form as a rule a favourable season 
 for a visit to Naples, the mean temperature being about 70° Fahr., 
 and the sky generally bright and cloudless. In November the rainy 
 S. wind prevails , while in December , during which the N. wind 
 blows, many fine days are enjoyed. The mean winter temperature 
 is about 50°, but in the cold nights of January the thermometer 
 
xxiv 
 
 CLIMATE. HEALTH. 
 
 sometimes sinks 5-6° below freezing-point. Snow seldom falls in 
 Naples itself, but the top of Mt. Vesuvius is often covered with 
 snow during the winter rainy season. Fogs are very rare. Towards 
 the end of January, or in February at latest, the S. winds again 
 predominate, and a rainy season sets in , which often lasts till 
 April. March resembles an English April in its changeableness, 
 while April (mean temperature 60°) is perhaps the most delightful 
 month of the whole year. May (68°) is also an exceedingly plea- 
 sant month. In June, July , and August the prevalent winds are 
 from theN. and N.E., and the weather is extremely dry and sultry. 
 The heat sometimes rises to 100° (mean 72-77°), but is pleasantly 
 tempered by the S. wind , which rises in the forenoon and blows 
 till about 4 p.m., an advantage unknown at Rome or Florence. 
 
 Health. The sanitary condition of Naples is on the whole 
 not unsatisfactory , and epidemics have not shown themselves so 
 deadly here as in many large towns in cooler climates. This is 
 doubtless owing to its constant ventilation by the various winds ; 
 but the traveller must be on his guard against the sudden changes 
 of temperature occasioned by these otherwise beneficial currents. 
 
 Rooms facing the S., such as are easily obtained in the Str . S. 
 Lucia and Str. Chiatamone , are absolutely essential for the deli- 
 cate, and highly desirable for the robust. Those, however, who 
 object to dust and wind should avoid these localities. Another 
 point to be observed is that the drains emptying themselves here 
 into the sea pollute the air very perceptibly when the wind blows 
 inshore. If diet be properly attended to, there is probably not so 
 much risk of typhus fever arising from this cause as is sometimes 
 imagined ; but delicate or nervous persons had better choose one of 
 the hotels or pensions in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele. For a prolong- 
 ed stay the parallel streets to the N. of the Riviera di Chiaja ($. 
 Maria in Portico , S. Teresa , Cavallerizza , etc.), may be recommend- 
 ed as sheltered, free from dust, and sufficiently well ventilated. 
 The upper floors of the houses are often damper than those on the 
 ground-floor, owing to the thinness of the walls. Care should be 
 taken to see that all the doors and windows close satisfactorily. 
 Travellers should be provided with a supply of warm clothing, 
 and should be careful not to go out in the evening too lightly clad. 
 Natives are generally much less negligent of these precautions 
 than strangers. 
 
 The water of Naples is obtained partly from aqueducts and 
 partly from cisterns. It is of very indifferent quality, and, though 
 rendered more palatable by the addition of snow or ice , cannot in 
 this way be made any purer or more wholesome. — Attention to 
 the above hints will generally enable the traveller to ward off 
 illness, but should continued diarrhoea or other serious symptoms 
 occur, no time should be lost in summoning a physician. 
 
ANCIENT ART, 
 
 from the German of 
 
 Prof. Reinhard Kekule. 
 
 We store 
 
 The sculptured relics of the Past , 
 
 And deplore 
 
 The beautiful as lost at last. 
 
 The traveller whose attention is directed to the treasures of 
 the National Mnsenm at Naples, to the relics of antiquity scattered 
 throughout Southern Italy and Sicily , and who , possibly setting 
 foot on the soil of Attica, finds himself, if favoured by fortune, in 
 the presence of her glorious ruins — has in all probability had 
 his appetite whetted in Rome, and has there collected such data as 
 he will readily apply to all that presents itself as new to his obser- 
 vation. But even he who turns himself at once to the contemplation 
 of an heritage of antiquity such as that comprised in the favoured 
 regions of Campania and Sicily has the promise of a rich and ab- 
 undant harvest, if he but know how to prize its fruits. 
 
 The National Museum partakes in many of its departments of 
 the same character as the Vatican with its Statue world, and in- 
 cludes many works in marble which have indeed been brought 
 thither from Rome, notably those formerly belonging to the Farnese 
 family. By the careful observer many of the statues will be re- 
 cognised as repetitions of those already seen in Rome. They belong 
 to the numerous class of copies made from renowned masterpieces, 
 which in the old Roman time were indispensable adjuncts to 
 a display of wealth and refinement. Many of these marbles betray, 
 owing to a certain redundancy and pliancy of outline, a taste 
 peculiar to people of these coasts upon which Nature has lavished 
 her choicest gifts. The exquisite Greek coins remind us that we are 
 in a land that was once the thriving and envied seat of Greek cul- 
 ture : innumerable tripods, candelabra, lamps, braziers, jars, jugs, 
 caskets, bracelets, needles, house and kitchen-utensils of all kinds, 
 weapons of warriors and gladiators, the numerous figures in bronze, 
 above all a stately array of some hundreds of wall-paintings, unique 
 in the world , indicate with sufficient clearness that here are col- 
 
xxvi 
 
 ANCIENT ART. 
 
 lected the results of excavations which present as in a mirror a 
 complete and charming picture of ancient life, and that we are in 
 the immediate neighbourhood of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and 
 Stabiae, long buried at the foot of Vesuvius. 
 
 His first impression of purely Greek art the Northern traveller 
 in Italy receives at Paestum. The drive through a lonely, insecure 
 country ; the picturesque beauty of the ruins and landscape with 
 the glittering sea in apparently close proximity ; the melancholy re- 
 flection that these proud temples before their decay looked upon 
 a thriving Hellenic city amid the smiles of nature, instead of a 
 fever-stricken pestilential wilderness : all this serves so to excite 
 the susceptibility of the beholder, that he will find the impression 
 produced by these ruins , conspicuously that of the Temple of 
 Jupiter , almost more overpowering than even the spectacle of the 
 Roman forum. There the scale , the solidity and splendour of the 
 edifices , as well as the surpassing wealth of form and sculptured 
 ornament, are imposing. Here the architecture appears externally 
 poor in merely superficial decoration : poorer than it had originally 
 been. The coating of stucco , so fine and firmly set that it gave to 
 the porous limestone a surface smooth as marble, is shattered and 
 weather-stained , the forms themselves have extensively suffered ; 
 wind and weather have obliterated the coloured leaves which de- 
 corated the heavy collars of the capitals together with all that gay 
 adornment bestowed according to Greek custom. But precisely in 
 this absence of adornment, in a simplicity which brings to view 
 only what is indispensable and essential, does this stern Doric 
 temple with its dense array of mighty columns, with its lofty and 
 ponderous entablature and far-reaching projection of cornice, in 
 the clear and simple disposal of the masses, in solemnity and 
 strength of proportion, in beauty and distinctness of outline, pre- 
 sent itself as a revelation of the spirit of Greek architecture, which 
 so fills us with amazement that we are apt to overlook the very 
 slight expenditure of material space employed to produce this in- 
 comparable impression of grandeur and sublimity. One who has 
 seen the ruins of Paestum will have the more pleasure in examin- 
 ing less impressive mementoes of the Greek ages from the city dedi- 
 cated to Poseidon — the fine monumental paintings from Paestum 
 in the National Museum of Naples: Warriors departing for the 
 combat whence they are never to return. 
 
 The Temple of Poseidon at Paestum is ascribed to the close of 
 the 6th century B.C. From a far remoter past, however, dates 
 the fragment of art-history which we are enabled to trace in Selh- 
 nunto , although it cannot of course be deciphered on the spot from 
 its ruins alone. The imagination is less severely taxed to supply 
 all that is lost to the beauteous ruins in Segesta and Oirgenti. In 
 Selinunto the effects of earthquakes have been so destructive that a 
 clear conception of the temples can only be attained by reference 
 
ANCIENT ART. 
 
 xxvii 
 
 to the architects’ plans and drawings. The sculptures belonging to 
 these temples, brought to light by recent excavations, are to he found 
 in the Museum of Palermo. The oldest temple, usually distinguish- 
 ed by the letter C, is that on the Acropolis. This was probably de- 
 dicated to Apollo as god of succour, and was erected immediately 
 subsequent to the foundation of the city, an event assigned variously 
 to B.C. 651 and B.C. 628. The neighbouring and northernmost 
 temple of the Acropolis, D, presumably sacred to Athena, is scarcely 
 more recent. In the three metope-reliefs which belong to the first- 
 named temple C, scarcely a trace of Grecian beauty is discernible ; 
 indeed they are almost ludicrously primitive and rude. And yet 
 they afford an instructive insight into the rudimentary Sculpture of 
 the Greeks. Possibly, in the place for which they were designed, 
 aloft between the triglyphs of a Doric frieze, and set in a frame- 
 work of strong and clearly defined architectural lines , the reliefs 
 may have had a less repulsive effect. But it is curious to ob- 
 serve how the same stage in art which had in architecture attained 
 to an essentially coherent system , primitive perhaps in its severity 
 and unwieldiness , yet conveying the impression of harmony in its 
 completeness, should in the rendering of such figures as would con- 
 tribute to its architectural ornamentation be beset by a childish 
 restraint and uncertainty of aim ; how the same eye that watched 
 over the ordered arrangement of each part and proportion as 
 well as the delicate rendering of each line and ornament of the 
 building, could be content to give representations of mythical 
 events , which, as it appears to us, must have exhibited an aimless 
 and startling conspicuousness and a grotesque vivacity, entailing 
 the disfigurement of the human form and the entire sacrifice of 
 natural proportion. And yet in these characteristics lies the germ 
 of a mighty future, in the religious enthusiasm which anim- 
 ated the artist as he strove to give intelligible expression to 
 the sacred history which he had to relate, in the independence 
 and directness with which he embodied its purport in sculp- 
 tured forms. Not that we can suppose such scenes to have been 
 altogether new to him. He might have seen them in other 
 places and in earlier times. But he had to mould them anew 
 and from his own individual resources , without available pattern, 
 and without that readiness in execution which the hand can only 
 acquire by frequent exercise. The head of Medusa alone, this 
 earliest figurative expression of destruction and horror, is clearly 
 and unfailingly pourtrayed. To the artist as well as his contem- 
 poraries this poverty in execution was not apparent. Their sucess- 
 ors were not slow to make far different pretensions. If a kind 
 fate had preserved the single statue of the youthful god that stood 
 in the sanctuary, or at some future time should discover it to us, 
 we should probably be overwhelmed with astonishment at the con- 
 trast presented by the statue to the reliefs. At a time when such 
 
xxviii 
 
 ANCIENT ART. 
 
 reliefs as these were possible, Greek art had already possessed itself 
 of a definite type for the statue of Apollo, and for the youthful 
 form generally, in archaic stiffness , hut conformable with the law 
 of nature in shape and proportion ; while by constant comparison 
 with nature it continued to gain in purity and truthfulness. 
 
 By the same process representation in relief is gradually en- 
 nobled. Offences against proportion and drawing are more easily 
 overlooked in relief than in a lifesize work in the round ; the sus- 
 ceptibility of the eye moreover is more readily forgotten in the in- 
 terest excited by the pictorial narration. The monuments of Seli- 
 nunto are pre-eminent in the opportunity they afford for observing 
 on the spot what has sprung from these beginnings. Of the group on 
 the Eastern hill the Temple F in point of time is next to those of 
 the Paean Apollo and of Athena. Then come Temple G, likewise 
 dedicated to Apollo, one to Juno E, and lastly Temple A, occupy- 
 ing the Acropolis. Temple F still belongs to the 6th century B.C., 
 a period when the building of the Apollo Temple G had begun, to 
 be completed at a later period. The Heraeum (Temple of Juno) E 
 and temple A date from the middle of the 5th century B.C. or 
 not much later. Two halves of metope-slabs have been brought 
 to light which adorned the temple F (a god and goddess contend- 
 ing with giants), and four similar slabs from the Heraeum are so 
 far preserved that they furnish a sufficiently intelligible repre- 
 sentation of Zeus and Hera, Artemis and Actaeon, Heracles and 
 the Amazons, and Athena contending with the Giants. 
 
 In both metopes from F extraordinary clearness and animation 
 again arrest the attention. The impetuous rush of the victorious 
 goddess, the dying agonies of the fallen giant, his head convulsive- 
 ly thrown back, his mouth open and grinning, his utter helpless- 
 ness, are rendered with a turbulence , and with an expenditure of 
 means, which appear to us very much in excess of what is needed 
 for clear expression, and which simply outrage instead of satisfying 
 one’s sense of the beautiful. The two art -stages to which these 
 reliefs, and the quaint rudeness of those of the Apollo Temple on 
 the Acropolis belong, offer a certain analogy. In both cases all 
 available means are applied with recklessness and in excess. Those, 
 however , at the disposal of the later artist were infinitely richer 
 and more perfect. While his predecessor had not altogether mastered 
 the forms of art , he had acquired a certain familiarity with them, 
 though at the cost of much toil and trouble ; but his power was so 
 new and unwonted that he could not refrain from abusing it. The 
 Metopae from the Heraeum on the other hand, which mark the maturity 
 of archaic art , show a command of expression ennobled by a fine 
 perception of the beautiful. These qualities declare themselves most 
 felicitously in the two compositions which represent the meeting 
 of Zeus and Hera on Mount Ida and Artemis punishing Actaeon. 
 The expression of godlike serenity and joy which pervades the first 
 
ANCIENT ART. 
 
 xxix 
 
 scene transcends all similar efforts whether of earlier or later art : 
 while the second is scarcely less admirable from the way in which 
 the unmistakable wildness of the subject is subdued to something 
 like softness by modulation of movement and occupation of allotted 
 space. The technical method employed in the more recent metopes 
 is peculiar. In the antique vases with black figures on a red ground 
 the men are usually black, and the women, as far as the body itself 
 is visible, white. Here the indication of the lighter and darker flesh 
 colour of the two sexes has superficially supplied a necessary char- 
 acteristic. But the perfected art also resorted to this distinction in 
 rendering flesh-colour. In the paintings of Pompeii the bronzed, 
 sunburnt bodies of the men form an effective contrast to the deli- 
 cate and fairer forms of the women. Something of the same kind 
 is found in the metopes of the Heraeum. As the entire temple is of 
 tufa, they too are of the same material. Owing to the rugged and 
 faulty nature of the material the architect resorted to a coating 
 of stucco upon which he displayed his gaudy decoration. In the 
 reliefs on the other hand the nude forms of the women are given 
 in white marble. The harmony of the different portions of the 
 reliefs, multiform as they were, was restored by a profuse appli- 
 cation of colour, which the purely architectural accessories also re- 
 quired. 
 
 These beautiful reliefs, which may appear somewhat primitive 
 in our eyes, are contemporaneous with, or perhaps even more recent 
 than the building and plastic decoration of the Parthenon in Athens. 
 Compared with the works of Attica they exhibit a distinctly dif- 
 ferent order of art, a Doric fashion of sculpture, which we again 
 meet with in the older metopes from Selinunto. At a time when 
 Greek art was in the zenith of its splendour, the Western Hellenes, 
 who like the Greeks of Asia Minor had been once in advance of the 
 mother-country, lost their advantage. Magna Graecia and Sicily can 
 boast of no name comparable with those of Phidias and Polycletus. 
 The reliefs of Selinunto have more in common with the works of 
 Polycletus, than with those of the Attic school. In the National 
 Museum at Naples there is a fine reproduction of the Doryphorus of 
 Polycletus, from which we learn what Doric Peloponnesian sculp- 
 ture was at its best; in like manner the Farnese Head of Juno 
 (p. 65), surpassing all similar conceptions of the goddess in majestic 
 severity and repressed energy, fitly affords an idea of the master- 
 piece of Polycletus. In a well-known passage in his history of art, 
 Winckelmann describes perfect beauty as twofold, as having a double 
 grace : the one as winning, — ‘she descends from her eminence, 
 revealing herself to the observant eye with a suavity devoid of 
 self-abasement : she is not over-anxious to please , but would 
 not be overlooked’. The other is self-satisfied and would be sought 
 rather than court attention , — ‘she holds converse only with the 
 wise, appearing to the populace inimical and morose, she locks 
 
XXX 
 
 ANCIENT ART. 
 
 within her breast the soul’s vibrations, and nearly attains to the 
 blessed repose of the divine nature : and thus according to ancient 
 writers the greatest artists sought to pourtray her’. To those who 
 know how to observe will be revealed beneath the morose solemnity 
 of this Farnese Juno an impressive picture of godlike repose and 
 majesty. 
 
 The Old Attic School is represented in Naples by the group 
 of the tyrant- slay ers Harmodius and Aristogiton [ p. 65), a copy of that 
 work of Antenor which stood in the market-place at Athens. The 
 two Athenians rush to the attack , the sword of the younger being 
 raised to strike ; the older of the two (the head of this figure does 
 not belong to it, the original was bearded) is at hand to protect his 
 brave comrade, as soon as the time comes for him to interfere ; and 
 here the words of the great authority already quoted, in reference to 
 the attributes of a severe style , are applicable : ‘The drawing was 
 impressive but hard , powerful but devoid of grace. The force of 
 expression detracts from the beauty’ . . . ‘Art was hard and severe as 
 the justice of the time which punished the most trifling offence with 
 death’. Those who can retain in the eye a correct impress of forms 
 may compare the two metopes of Temple F with this Attic group 
 of the murder of Hippias. The same violence of action and render- 
 ing of form are observable in both. But the reliefs appear wild, 
 almost disordered and devoid of beauty, beside the symmetrical ac- 
 curacy and precision , the concentrated power, the beautiful flow of 
 lines in the group of statues. Farther, a comparison of the finest 
 metopes from the Hera temple with this and other Attic works will 
 give an insight into the various phases of subtlety and grace which 
 find a place in the collective Greek character. Above all, such a 
 comparison will direct attention to the widely differing conditions 
 requisite for the execution of reliefs intended for architectural de- 
 coration from those imposed upon the author of a self-contained 
 work in the round on the grandest scale. This distinction must 
 neither be overlooked nor too lightly estimated. 
 
 Though in the National Museum there may not be found any 
 very pure or important example of the Attic school of Phidias’ time, 
 a succeeding school is most happily illustrated by the Orpheus Belief 
 (p. 70). Orpheus is permitted to bring his consort Eurydice out of 
 Hades and to restore her once more to the light of the sun on con- 
 dition that he shall not look upon her during the passage. He has 
 failed to fulfil this condition. Hermes, the conductor of departed 
 souls, with gentle measured gesture takes the hand of Eurydice to 
 consign her anew to the realm of shades. In contemplating this com- 
 position, beautiful in its simplicity as it is, hope and dismay altern- 
 ately possess us. The advance of the train, Orpheus in the act of 
 casting the fatal glance , the confiding communion of man and wife 
 are quite unmistakable , as well as the interruption of their pro- 
 gress and the subsequent return of Eurydice. And here we may 
 
ANCIENT ART. 
 
 xxxi 
 
 pause to wonder how antique art could present powerful effect 
 clothed in persuasive beauty, or, if subdued , yet with striking ex- 
 pression : and with what a modest expenditure of means she could 
 assert ‘this noble simplicity and grandeur of repose’. Even in its 
 own time this work must have enjoyed a considerable reputation, 
 as replicas are still to be seen in the Villa Albani at Rome and in 
 the Louvre at Paris. The Neapolitan example is the most beauti- 
 ful, and the severest too, of those extant. It may be remarked, by 
 the way, that the inscriptions introduced, though they may be cor- 
 rect in the explanation they give , must be of doubtful antiquity. 
 — By far the greater number of sculptures in Naples belong like 
 those in Rome to a more recent period of Greek art. The prostrate 
 Amazon stretched out in death, a Dead Persian , a Dead Giant , and 
 the Wounded Gaul , which will be readily recognised from its re- 
 semblance to a master-piece of the Pergamenian school, the Dying 
 Gaul in the Museum of the Capitol (the so-called dying gladiator), 
 are parts of a votive offering of King Attalus of Pergamum at Athens, 
 of which single figures are to be seen in Venice and in Rome. 
 
 The colossal group of the so-called Farnese Bull (p. 64), which 
 brilliantly represents the Rhodian School, is more likely to arrest 
 attention. This group will produce a powerful impression upon 
 most beholders, and this not by force of its material bulk alone. 
 The effect would have been even more impressive, had the work of 
 restoration been successful, particularly in the standing female 
 figure. It will bee worth our while to analyse the nature of this 
 effect, as well as the forces which contribute to it. An occurrence 
 full of horror is presented to our view. Two powerful youths are 
 engaged in binding on the back of a furious bull the helpless form 
 of a woman. The mighty beast is plunging violently, and in another 
 moment will be away, hurrying the burden he is made to bear to 
 the terrible doom of a martyr. As soon as we have attained to an 
 accurate conception of what is passing before us, horror and dismay 
 rather than pity take possession of us. What impels the youths 
 to the deed? How is it that they are allowed to effect their purpose 
 undisturbed? The answer is to be found outside the work itself. 
 Antiope, expelled by her father, has given birth to Amphion and 
 Zethus and abandoned them. The sons grow up under the care 
 of an old shepherd. Antiope has yet other sufferings to endure at 
 the hands of her relation Dirce who maltreated her. Dirce wander- 
 ing on Mount Cythaeron in bacchanalian revel would slay the 
 victim of her persecutions. She bids two young shepherds bind 
 Antiope to a bull that she may thus be dragged to her death. The 
 youths recognise their mother before it is too late : they consign 
 Dirce to the doom prepared for Antiope. The ancient Greeks were 
 familiarised with this myth by a celebrated tragedy of Euripides ; 
 the subordinate work on the base, the mountain-god Cythaeron 
 decked with Bacchic ivy, and the Bacchic Cista on the ground, 
 
xxxii 
 
 ANCIENT ART. 
 
 would help to recall all the minor incidents of the story. A doom 
 pronounced by the gods is executed ; the fate Dirce had prepared for 
 another recoils upon herself. But all this, or at least as much as 
 will suffice for a satisfactory understanding of the work of art as 
 such, cannot be gathered from the work itself. In the Orpheus 
 relief we recognise without extraneous aid the separation of two 
 lovers calmly resigned to their fate, their severance by the conductor 
 of souls. An acquaintance with the exquisite legend will merely 
 serve to enhance the thrilling emotions evoked by the sculptured 
 forms. The Bull will excite our abhorrence if the story be not 
 known to us; while the knowledge itself and such reflections as it 
 would suggest could scarcely reconcile us to the cruelty of the 
 deed, nor help us to endure without something akin to petrifaction 
 these moments of horror. But when our thoughts are sufficiently 
 collected to allow of our realising the event, we are again lost in 
 admiring wonder at the aspiring courage, at the command of all 
 artistical and technical resources possessed by the author of this 
 sculpture which uprears itself with such unfaltering power. The 
 base is adorned with suggestions of landscape and appropriate 
 animal-life more elaborately than was then usual in works of this 
 kind, although analogies are not wholly wanting. But the landscape, 
 the figure of the mountain-god Cythaeron, together with all minor 
 accessories, are far surpassed in interest by the principal figures 
 and their action. The lovely feminine form of Dirce vainly im- 
 ploring the powerful youths whose utmost exertions scarcely suf- 
 fice to restrain the infuriated beast, the vivid reality of the whole 
 scene , the artistic refinement in the execution have scarcely yet 
 been sufficiently admired. We readily concede to one like Welcker, 
 who brought the finest perceptions to bear on the exposition of 
 antique art, ‘that it is impossible to attain to the highest excellence 
 in any particular direction without at the same time postponing 
 one or other consideration of value’. That which was esteemed as 
 the highest excellence , the goal which must be reached at the cost 
 of all other considerations, has varied with successive epochs of 
 Greek art. In the present case repose and concentration are sacri- 
 ficed to the overwhelming effect of a momentary scene. Even at 
 a time when restoration could not have interfered with the original 
 design , the impression of a certain confusedness must have been 
 conveyed to the spectator, at least at the first glance. It is emin- 
 ently characteristic of this group ‘that it powerfully arrests the 
 attention at a point where an almost wild defiance of rule declares 
 itself. The contrast presented in the scene • — the terribly rapid 
 and unceasing movement as the inevitable result of a momentary 
 pause, which the artist with consummate boldness and subtlety has 
 known howto induce and improve, give life and energy to the 
 picture in a wonderful degree’. But Welcker himself, from whom 
 these words are borrowed , reminds us how this group first arrests 
 
ANCIENT ART. 
 
 xxxiii 
 
 attention ‘by the uncommon character of its appearance’. The 
 group of the Bull assuredly displays excellences which belonged 
 to the antique of every epoch , especially the intuitive perception 
 that truth in the sphere of art is not identical with an illusory 
 realism. The conception of this group proceeds from a complete 
 apprehension of the subject to be embodied. But this fulness of 
 apprehension is derived from the Tragedy. From the very beginning 
 plastic art and poetry have been as twin streams springing from 
 one source and flowing separately, yet side by side. Often indeed 
 their waters have met and mingled. But it was long e’er the tide 
 of poetry seeking a separate channel helped to feed the sister 
 stream. The scene presented to us by this Farnese group was 
 illustrated by Euripides long before its embodiment by plastic art 
 in his tragedy, where Dirce’s death is related by the messenger. The 
 artist found material for his inventiveness at hand, which his fancy, 
 passionately stimulated, presently endowed with plastic form and 
 life at a moment which promised ‘an uncommon appearance’, a 
 majestic and overpowering effect which should command astonish- 
 ment and admiration. We have already attributed the Farnese group 
 to the Rhodian School in speaking of the origin and development 
 of art. It was the work of two sculptors Apollonius and Taurfscus 
 of Tralles in Asia Minor ; for, according to the Roman author Pliny, 
 the group is identical with one by these artists which was brought 
 to Rome from Rhodes, and in all probability found its way thence 
 to Naples. — The colossal group of a man who bears away the dead 
 body of a boy on his shoulders is usually ascribed to the Rhodian 
 School. It has been described as Hector with the body of Troilus. 
 But the corpse of a beloved brother saved from the battle-field 
 would hardly be seized in such fashion. It would rather appear 
 to be that of a victim borne away in triumph by a ruthless victor. 
 
 In Naples we have a number of instructive examples of the 
 two styles which are frequently designated as an antique Renais- 
 sance, the New-Attic School, and the School of Pasiteles ; of 
 the latter in the bronze figure of Apollo playing the Lyre from Pom- 
 peii, and in the archaic simplicity of the affecting group of Orestes 
 and Electra ; of the former in the Vase of Salpion , or better still in 
 the Aphrodite from Capua , the so-called Psyche , and similar works. 
 In Naples abundant opportunity will be found for continuing the 
 study begun in Rome of the heroes of an ideal world, of portraits 
 (among which the mild and melancholy head of M . Brutus , the 
 murderer of Caesar, is conspicuous), sarcophagus-reliefs, or whatever 
 else may especially engage the attention. Probably, however, 
 curiosity and interest will be most excited by the appearance of 
 antique paintings from Pompeii and the neighbouring cities of Cam- 
 pania buried at the foot of Vesuvius. 
 
 The history of Greek Painting presents a problem difficult 
 of solution. Happily we have outlived the superstition that the 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. C 
 
xxxiv 
 
 ANCIENT ART. 
 
 people amongst whom the Parthenon arose , and who gave birth to 
 a sculptor such as Phidias, should have contributed in painting 
 nothing worthy of record. What we most desire, however, is still 
 wanting. We are not in possession of any work by a master of the 
 art ; hut only of the products of a subordinate and mechanical art, 
 and these only from a single and comparatively recent period. 
 
 The greatest painter of the older time — and probably one of 
 the greatest artists of all times — was Polygnotus , a native of 
 Thasos. He lived for the most part in Athens, where he was pre- 
 sented with the rights of citizenship, and was, though a contemporary 
 of Phidias, his senior. As Phidias was a favourite of Pericles and 
 employed by him, it would appear that Polygnotus was a protege of 
 Cimon. Pausanias, the Greek author of travels (in the time of 
 Antoninus), had seen two large paintings by Polygnotus covering 
 the wall in Delphi, and has minutely described them. In the one 
 the fall of Troy was represented, in the other scenes from the nether 
 world. In the first the Trojan Cassandra is the centre figure. Ajax 
 has offered violence to her : she sits on the ground, in her hand the 
 image of the insulted Athena ; around her the Greek heroes are 
 sitting in judgment upon Ajax. In the background is the citadel 
 of Troy, the head of the wooden horse reaches above its wall, which 
 Epeios, the builder of the horse, is about to demolish. Right and 
 left of the central group are scenes of destruction ; heaps of the 
 slain, the savage Neoptolemus still persisting in his work of 
 slaughter, captive women, and terrified children ; nor were more 
 inviting scenes wanting. Close to the captive Trojan women iEthra 
 was seen , the liberated slave of Helen , and farther hack the tent 
 of Menelaus is taken down and his ship equipped for departure. 
 On the other side of the picture was recognised the house of An- 
 tenor, which the Greeks had spared, while he himself and his 
 family make ready to quit their desolated home and depart for 
 foreign lands. Thus the entire centre of the composition has refer- 
 ence to the crime committed after the conquest, which called aloud 
 for punishment by the gods ; these scenes of death and horror were 
 enclosed at the extremities by more peaceful incidents — the 
 horror of the lower world whose shades envelope renowned heroes 
 and heroines ; Odysseus compelled to descend to the abode of the 
 departed — . all this Polygnotus combined in one grand picture, 
 skilfully alternating peace and the torments of hell, prodigious 
 ghastliness and tender grace. Polygnotus had not only embodied in 
 these pictures the mythical matter with which religious rites, epic 
 poem, vulgar tradition and humour, as well as the earlier works of 
 plastic art, could furnish him ; not only had he animated this 
 material with captivating motives strongly appealing to the be- 
 holder’s imagination ; but he had, as may still be recognised, while 
 painting, asserted his power as a poet and supplied much that was 
 original in the realm of fancy. The technical means at the disposal 
 
ANCIENT ART. 
 
 XXXV 
 
 of Polygnotus were so limited, so simple and antiquated, that in 
 the Roman times admiration of his pictures was ridiculed as a con- 
 ceit of dilettantism — just as at one time it was customary to scoff 
 at the admirer of Giotto. Nevertheless with these simple means, 
 Polygnotus could express himself with so much clearness, so nobly 
 and sublimely, that Aristotle boasted of him that his forms were 
 more noble and grander than were commonly seen in life , while 
 the painter Pauson presented men worse than they really were, and 
 Dionysius was true to nature. Having regard to these separate qua- 
 lifications he suggested that the youthful eye should receive its im- 
 pressions from Polygnotus and not from Pauson. In later times the 
 beauty of Polygnotus’ pictures continued to charm : in the second 
 century A.D. his Cassandra supplied an author of refinement and 
 penetration, like Lucian, with the material for a description of fe- 
 minine beauty. 
 
 While the fame of Polygnotus and his contemporaries rested 
 principally on wall - paintings , later critics would maintain that 
 those of his successors who first produced artistic effect in portable 
 pictures were the only true painters. As the first painter in this 
 sense the Athenian Apollodorus may be named. The work which 
 he began was completed by Zeuxis of Heraelea and Parrhasius of 
 Ephesus. We still possess a description by Lucian of the Centaur 
 family by Zeuxis. The female Centaur reclines on the grass, the 
 human upper part of the body being raised and supported by the 
 elbow. One of her two infants she holds in her arms giving it 
 nourishment in human fashion ; the other sucks as a foal her teats. 
 The male Centaur looks down from above. He holds in his right 
 hand a lion-cub which he swings over his shoulder as if jokingly 
 to frighten his young ones. ‘The further excellences of the picture,’ 
 modestly continues Lucian, though evidently an accomplished 
 connoisseur, ‘which to us laymen are but partially revealed, 
 which nevertheless comprise the whole of art’s resources, correct 
 drawing, an admirable manipulation and mingling of colour, man- 
 agement of light and shade, a happy choice of dimension, as 
 well as just relative proportion of parts to the whole, and the com- 
 bined movement of the composition — these are qualities to be ex- 
 tolled by one of art’s disciples who has mastered the subject in its 
 detail’. This eloquent description by Lucian has been made the sub- 
 ject of a spirited drawing by Genelli. Unfortunately no such record 
 of Parrhasius’ works remains. The credit of having first applied 
 symmetry, i.e. probably the systematic regard for the proportion 
 recognised by later leaders in art, to painting, is claimed for Par- 
 rhasius, as well as delicacy and grace in the artistic rendering of the 
 countenance and hair. He is said, too, to have been supreme in 
 the management of contour. But in later times Parrhasius was 
 esteemed simple as a colorist compared with Apelles. 
 
 The authors to whom are ascribed most of the notices of painters 
 
 c * 
 
Xxxvi 
 
 ANCIENT ART. 
 
 that we possess, distinguish different schools. The Helladic 
 School included the painters of Athens and those of the mother- 
 country of Greece along with those of Sicyon. But owing to the 
 pre-eminence achieved for Sicyon by the painter Eupompus, the 
 Helladic school was again subdivided under the title of Sicyonic 
 and Attic or Attic- Theb an , after certain artists of these schools. 
 To this, or these schools rather, was opposed the Asiatic (Ionic). 
 Pausias , whose name is known to us by Goethe’s exquisite poem, 
 was one of the Sicyonian School, and, so, it appears, was that spirited 
 painter Timanthes , whose best-known work was his Iphigenia. She 
 stood at the altar ready to be sacrificed , surrounded by the heroes 
 of the Grecian camp, in whose persons, according to the character 
 of each and with due regard to appropriateness, was pourtrayed 
 every degree of mental anguish. Agamemnon himself veiled his 
 head. Nicomachus , Aristides , Euphranor , likewise renowned as 
 sculptor and master of heroic representation , and Nicias the friend 
 of Praxiteles belong to the Theban-Attic school. Amongst the pic- 
 tures of Aristides was one of a woman wounded during the siege. 
 She is dying while her infant still clings to her breast. In the ex- 
 pression of the mother’s countenance could, it was thought, be read 
 the fear lest her blood should be mingled with the milk the child 
 was sucking. — The most brilliant master of the Ionic school — 
 though he had had the advantage of studying his art in Sicyon — 
 the most renowned indeed of the painters of antiquity, was Apelles, 
 the contemporary of Alexander the Great, and incomparable in his 
 power of expressing grace in all its forms. As yet we are not in pos- 
 session of any distinct clue to the character of his most esteemed 
 works, of Artemis, with her band of attendant Nymphs clustering 
 around her, hurrying to the chase, nor of Aphrodite rising from the 
 sea. We are more fortunate in the instance of two younger painters, 
 Aetion and Timomachus. Of the nuptials of Alexander by Aetion 
 we have again a masterly description by Lucian, with which all are 
 acquainted who have seen the beautiful Raffaelesque composition in 
 the Palazzo Borghese at Rome. The Medea of Timomachus is to 
 be traced in a series of imitations or reminiscences, on monuments 
 of different kinds, but most remarkably in a mutilated picture from 
 Herculaneum, and again in another perfectly preserved from 
 Pompeii. 
 
 The services thus rendered us by the Campanian towns in 
 bringing to light the works of Timomachus encourage us to hope 
 that they may be repeated in the case of other Greek celebrities. 
 It is in fact concluded with a considerable show of probability that 
 in the Pompeian representations of the liberation of Andromeda by 
 Perseus are to be recognised influences of a picture by Nicias. It 
 has frequently been attempted with much pains, and with aid of 
 more or less audacious assumptions and combinations, to contrive 
 copies of these renowned Greek masters, and when a(ter all it has 
 
ANCIENT ART. 
 
 xxxvii 
 
 been found that such efforts are for the most part vain and futile, 
 it has been urged in explanation of the failure that our acquain- 
 tance with celebrated cabinet-pictures is too limited. We must, 
 then, however unwillingly, accept the conclusion that anything more 
 than a very qualified belief in Pompeian pictures is impossible. 
 They are invaluable as a clue to many qualities which were com- 
 mon to the painting of antiquity ; invaluable , too , because they 
 assuredly possess, in obedience to the unvarying traditions of an- 
 tique art — which having taken a theme in hand would work it out 
 to the last possible variation — a wealth of imagery and redundance 
 of lineament which connect them more or less closely with the works 
 of the great masters. But it is scarcely to be wondered at that the 
 authenticity of copies from celebrated cabinet-pictures of the best 
 period should be so rarely established, or wear even the appearance 
 of probability; it were a wonder indeed if so much could be accom- 
 plished. 
 
 Demosthenes reminds his countrymen in scathing words how 
 in the palmy days of Athens the noblest edifices were erected in 
 honour of the gods, while the dwellings of the most distinguished 
 Athenians were simple and inconspicuous as those of their neighbours. 
 Even at the time these words were spoken a change had come over 
 Greek life. For the stern sublimity of the creations of an earlier time, 
 Art had substituted a milder and more effeminate type of divinity, 
 nor did she now disdain to enter the abodes of men. The splendour 
 which had been reserved for the gods, now found its way into pri- 
 vate dwellings. What at first had been a bold innovation and an 
 exception , presently grew into a universal requirement. From the 
 epoch of culture inaugurated by Alexander onwards , sculptor and 
 painter alike contributed to the artistical beauty and sumptuous 
 adornment of dwelling-houses. Inventiveness , displayed in the 
 designing and ornamentation of household furniture of every kind, 
 followed as a matter of course , and though in Athens and Hellas 
 expenditure in this way remained moderate, in other great cities, as 
 xAdexandria in Egypt and Antioch in Syria , artist and handicrafts- 
 man alike vied with the wealth and luxury of the inhabitants, not 
 only in beautifying the cities externally, but in lavishing upon the 
 dwelling-houses of the rich the utmost attainable splendour. Plans 
 were extended and adapted to the employments and highest enjoy- 
 ment of life ; floors, walls, and ceilings were arranged and decorated 
 in ever new and varying style. Then decoration in stucco and 
 painting was supplemented by mosaic work which enlivened the 
 floors with an effect as charming as that of painting ; nor was it 
 long restricted to the floors. Along with other elements of culture 
 the Roman world had borrowed from the Greek the beautifying of 
 their houses , and as movement is never absolutely suspended, this 
 taste received in Roman times a farther impetus in its original 
 direction. We may safely assume, however, reasoning from analogy,. 
 
xxxviii 
 
 ANCIENT ART. 
 
 that it departed farther and farther from the purity and harmony of 
 the Greek pattern. 
 
 In the picture which Pompeii presents as a whole we see the 
 last trace of that combined art and beauty which with the later 
 Greeks permeated life in every vein and in all its phases : a feeble 
 and faded picture it must remain, however active the fancy may 
 be in investing it with attributes belonging to Hellenic art in the 
 zenith of its splendour. From an earlier period, when the influence 
 of the Greek was more directly felt, we have not received much from 
 Pompeii that is instructive. The general impression is derived 
 from the restorations consequent on the earthquake of the year 
 A.D. 63. The great mass of decoration is the work of the sixteen 
 years intervening between A.D. 63 and the town’s final destruction 
 in A.D. 79, and was in the newest fashion then prevailing in Rome, 
 but necessarily on a scale commensurate with the resources of a pro- 
 vincial town. As the Roman senate had ordered the rebuilding of the 
 town, the pay of handicraftsmen would doubtlessly be attractive 
 enough. The houses were made habitable with the utmost de- 
 spatch, and received their decorations with the same haste. It is im- 
 possible but to believe that the greater number of houses were thus 
 completed by a comparatively small number of masters with their 
 staffs of workmen. They had their pattern-books for the decoration 
 of entire rooms and walls, as well as for simple pictures, and they 
 resorted to these pattern-books more or less according to their need 
 or fancy. The favourite motives and forms were so familiar to 
 them that they had them literally at their fingers’ ends : with incre- 
 dibly certain and facile hand, and without concerning themselves 
 about means or method, they fling their gaud and glitter over the 
 naked walls. And very captivating is this stirring picture-pattern 
 world which moved obedient to their will. Vistas of airy fantastical 
 forms architecturally disposed and decked with wreaths and gar- 
 lands delusively mask the narrow limits of the allotted space ; 
 while, by way of completing the illusory effect of this mock archi- 
 tecture, graceful figures move in the midst, or from the open window 
 look in upon the chamber. Arabesques, sprays and borders of 
 foliage and flowers, and garlands gracefully enliven and divide the 
 walls ; while in the midst of the enclosed spaces, from a dark back- 
 ground, figures single or in pairs stand out in dazzling relief, and 
 whether winged or otherwise are always lightly and surely poised. 
 Here and there lovely maidens are seen dancing in mid-air; Ero- 
 tinkles on the strings of the lyre which Psyche holds ; Satyrs and 
 Nymphs, Centaurs and Bacchantes, female figures with candelabra, 
 flowers and fruits people this airy realm of fancy. Separate pic- 
 tures at intervals engage the attention. They tell the story of the 
 handsome but unsusceptible Narcissus, of Adonis the favourite of 
 Aphrodite, whose early loss the goddess bewails with Eros, of Phae- 
 dra’s shameless passion for Hippolytus; the loves of Apollo and 
 
ANCIENT ART. 
 
 xxxix 
 
 Daphne , of Ares and Aphrodite , Artemis and Actaeon , Ariadne 
 abandoned by Theseus , the story of Leda , the life and pursuits of 
 Bacchus and his followers, of the god finding the forsaken Ariadne, 
 and of Satyrs pursuing Nymphs. Scenes of terror, too, there are : 
 Dirce hound to the Bull, Medea meditating the murder of her 
 children, the sacrifice of Iphigenia — but even these are rendered 
 with an effect of sensuous beauty so entrancing that they are lost 
 in the gladsome world of exuberant life about them. Mere tragedy, 
 mere convulsive effort, acquired no enduring power over the senses: 
 they are rather beguiled by the remembrance of some captivating 
 legend, some transient impulse, a throb of compassion, which infuse 
 a wholesome element into pictures abounding with expressions of 
 rapturous delight. Where passion exerts itself it is but for the 
 moment — the power of love for good or evil , the beauty of the 
 human form , moments of bliss whether of mortals or the immor- 
 tals — such is the material for an ever-recurring theme. Bits of 
 landscape , houses with trees, rocks, or a grotto on the strand are 
 suggestive of idyllic delights. And around these more conspicuous 
 figures are grouped an accompaniment of small friezes with pic- 
 torial accessories grave and gay, still life, animals and incidents of 
 the chase, pygmies, masks, fresh fruit, and household vessels. 
 
 The liveliest impression is made by the best examples of 
 figures separately poised on the walls. Curiosity is most excited 
 by the separate pictures ; they are the last remnant of the historical 
 painting of the old world. They cannot, however, enable us to 
 form a just estimate of the works of the greatest ancient masters. 
 If genuine and adequate copies of celebrated cabinet-pictures from 
 the best period were to be found amongst Pompeian decorations it 
 would be by an accident altogether exceptional and capricious. 
 The artist-bands who subsequently to the earthquake of A.D. 63 
 pushed their work so easily and so rapidly had neither these ca- 
 binet-pictures nor the genuine and adequate copies to guide them, 
 but simply the drawings of their pattern-books, f Thoroughly trained 
 as they were mechanically to the work , they turned their sketches 
 
 f There have been long-standing differences of opinion about the me- 
 chanism of painting practised in Pompeii. A solution of the problem is 
 the result of researches conducted by the painter O. Donner (in a work 
 published by Prof. Helbig, entitled ‘Wall-paintings of the cities of Cam- 
 pania destroyed by Vesuvius'’, Leipsic 1868). According to this authority it 
 is certain that the greater number of the pictures as well as wall-decora- 
 tions were painted in fresco , i. e. upon a newly prepared and moistened 
 surface — and only in exceptional cases and as a makeshift upon a dry 
 ground. Conclusive evidence of this is afforded by the presence, to which 
 Donner refers, of so-called Fresco-edges, i. e. of spots where the newly 
 prepared surface came in contact with what was already dry. The sur- 
 face intended for the reception of colour was prepared by the painters of 
 antiquity with such care that it retained the moisture much longer than 
 in recent times has been found attainable. They were thus enabled to 
 cover large wall-spaces without interruption and in this respect had a con- 
 siderable advantage over us moderns. — In 1873 Professor Helbig pub- 
 
xl 
 
 ANCIENT ART. 
 
 to the best possible account, transferred them on the required scale, 
 making additions or omissions as the case might be, varying, modi- 
 fying and curtailing, as necessity, fancy, and the measure of their 
 capacity might prescribe. The enclosed pictures, which in graceful 
 inventiveness and execution often enough surpassed the forms oc- 
 cupying the open spaces, cannot be considered apart from the 
 general decoration with which in manner and method they are 
 identical. They betray moreover in spite of all that is beautiful 
 and admirable about them, symptoms of degeneracy; just as the 
 wall - decorations of Pompeii descending from elegance to the 
 trivialities of mock architecture exhibit a degeneracy which must 
 not, however, be regarded as inherent in the art of which we see 
 here but a feeble reflection. Thus we learn that the way from the 
 great painters of Greece to the wall-pictures of Pompeii is neither 
 short nor straight, but long and too often hard to find. Many of 
 the forms and groups so gracefully poised in the open wall-spaces 
 may in their origin have reached back so far as to the happiest 
 period of Greek art; it is also possible, that, when framed pictures 
 were for the first time painted on the walls of houses in the epoch 
 of Alexander, or at whatever other period this style of decoration 
 came into vogue, celebrated easel-pictures were copied or laid 
 under contribution. The designers of the pattern-books may have 
 betaken themselves to a variety of sources, they may have ap- 
 propriated and combined, as old and new patterns, entire de- 
 corations together with separate figures and finished pictures. Like 
 the pattern-books for the sarcophagus-reliefs, they must have been 
 full of ideas and motives derived from an earlier and nobler art. 
 And as wall-painting is more akin to high art we may encourage 
 the hope that patient research will often be rewarded by discovering 
 — as hitherto amidst a tanglement of conflicting evidence — not 
 the work s themselves of the great masters, but those traces of their 
 work which we so eagerly seek. In Pompeii, however, we learn the 
 necessity of caution, for we there find examples of a much earlier 
 style of decoration than the i Pompeian’. 
 
 No one could overlook the solemn dignity of aspect which makes 
 the Casa del Fauno conspicuous amidst the mass of habitations in 
 Pompeii. Here beauty reveals itself in column and capital, cornice 
 and panelling, favourably contrasting with the gaudy frippery of a 
 fantastical mock architecture with its pictorial accompaniments. 
 The wealthy family which occupied this mansion may have rejoiced 
 in the possession of many a costly cabinet -picture. But at the 
 time the house was built it was not yet the custom, or it was not the 
 owner’s pleasure to follow the newest fashion. In their place a 
 
 lished a supplement to his earlier work (Leipzig), and in 1879 a con- 
 tinuation of his list of mural paintings appeared in Italian , under the 
 title ‘Ze Pitture Murali Campane scoverte negli anni 1867-79 , descritte da 
 AntoniQ Sogliano \ 
 
ANCIENT ART 
 
 xli 
 
 complete series of the finest mosaics form e( l a P ar f °f the general 
 decoration of the house. These are still partially preserved and to 
 he seen on the spot. Here the celebrated Battle of Alexander was 
 found, grand in composition, and a genuine example of high art, in 
 which we recognise once more the magic touch of Greek genius : 
 how with the simplest possible means the loftiest excellence was 
 achieved; here, too, we gain an insight into the method pursued by 
 the great painters in their works. A very different and lar grander 
 art declares itself in these mosaics than in the wall-paintings. The 
 other mosaics found in this mansion also rank high in point of 
 beauty as well as in precision and purity of drawing , and owing to 
 the difficulties of reproduction in mosaic consequent on the nature 
 of the material the fact becomes doubly suggestive that in effectual 
 and complete mastery of drawing there is nothing in the whole 
 range of Pompeian pictures to surpass the border of masks, garlands, 
 foliage and fruits of the Casa del Fauno or the mosaics attributed 
 to the artist Dioscorides. But we may well delight in the air of 
 cheerful airy grace pervading these pictorial decorations of Pom- 
 peii, in this precious heritage of Grecian — and in part old Gre- 
 cian — life and beauty which a licentious posterity has scattered 
 over its dazzling walls. 
 
 Whoever has had eye and sense alike familiarised with the 
 wonders of antique art will be richly repaid by a visit to Athens, 
 the venerable city of Pericles and Phidias. Here, in spite ot the 
 ravages of time, he will find the fulfilment of his cherished desire. 
 For he is in the home of all that is most noble and precious, of 
 what Rome and Naples had afforded him but a glimpse and a 
 foretaste. There is not a fragment, whether bearing inscription or 
 relief, to be picked up on the Acropolis of Athens that does not 
 tell how religion , art, and civic life were constantly interwoven ; 
 how deeply they were rooted in their native soil. And on the 
 loftiest summit of this castle-rock, towering above all surround- 
 ing objects, there yet stands the most strikingly impressive and 
 splendid record of this composite life, a witness of the time 
 when the Attic people were at the height of their prosperity and 
 their greatness — the Parthenon of Pericles , having an import in 
 its ruins which elevates and engrosses the soul. 
 
 The Doric structure is in its general scope very much what we 
 see in Psestum , only of finer material , purer form, and more uni- 
 form completeness. Thought and feeling are distinctly traceable 
 in the simple and beautiful proportions of the Poseidon Temple, 
 though in a guise somewhat primitive and harsh. We are im- 
 pressed by the dense array of stout columns, and never doubt their 
 power to sustain with their broad capitals the weight of ponderous 
 entablature and roof imposed upon them. In the Parthenon a 
 forest of pillars rear themselves above the majestic flight of marble 
 
xlii 
 
 ANCTENT ART. 
 
 steps which separate and lift the building from the earth ‘which, 
 slender but stalwart, seem to defy the impending burden’ ; ‘and 
 this burden itself, the entablature and roof, is so richly elaborated, 
 so forcibly projected, is so harmoniously adjusted in its proportions 
 to the structure beneath, that the conflict between burden and 
 bearer which in earlier times' was so apparent is here no longer 
 recognised as conflict. The more intently we gaze, the more are we 
 impressed as with the glories of Nature ; above all in the structure 
 as a whole we behold not only the enchantment, but the entire 
 solemnity of beauty, and as we endeavour to analyse this effect, it 
 resolves itself into wonder that the mind which controlled the shap- 
 ing of each part should yet have failed to endow the mighty unit 
 with the talisman of life’. We may not indeed recognise the hand 
 of Ictinus in the building ; but by a comparison with the temple 
 now known as that of Theseus , intrinsically beautiful as it is, we 
 see plainly enough with what good reason the work of this master 
 was highly prized ; we can participate , too , in the admiration for 
 Mnesicles, the architect of the Propylaea. The genius of Phidias 
 was associated with that of Ictinus. The creations of his hand are 
 to be seen in pediment , metopes, and interior frieze — wherever 
 sculpture would be admissible or could be called into requisition. 
 In Athens herself, too, enough remains to convince us of the force 
 and richness of these sculptures. But instead of the goddess herself 
 who stood in her shrine, colossal in size and wrought in gold and 
 ivory, we have an unfinished statuette only, probably once rejected 
 as a failure, which at best can but convey in the vaguest pos- 
 sible manner an idea of the mere material characteristics of the 
 original statue without affording a glimpse of its amazing beauty 
 and richness. 
 
 Besides the works of the great masters, besides Propylcea , 
 Parthenon , Ereclitheum , and Temple of Victory , besides the Theseurn 
 and the elegant Lysicrates Monument , — the beautiful Votive Reliefs 
 of the Asklepieum , and still more the Sepulchral Reliefs which form 
 so large a part of the Athenian collections, and those by the Di- 
 pylon which afford a distinct picture of an Athenian street of tombs 
 or Attic cemetery, claim our attention. They perhaps show most 
 clearly how every class of the Athenian community was possessed 
 with a sense, of the beautiful; how the obscurest handicraftsman, 
 though he might not soar on the wings of genius, still might in 
 time come to share his acquisitions. Amongst these sepulchral 
 reliefs are single examples of considerable antiquity, such as the 
 stele of Aristion which bears his portrait, attired as warrior in full 
 armour. The majority belong to the 4th century B.C. and a time 
 shortly ensuing. Amongst other particulars the sepulchral relief 
 records the manner of the deceased’s death. Thus the youthful 
 Dexileus, who fell in glorious battle at Corinth in B.C. 394, is 
 represented fighting on horseback. The most prevalent style, 
 
ANCIENT ART, 
 
 xliii 
 
 however, is that of the so-called family-scenes. They are indeed 
 family - pictures , hut not of everyday or indifferent moments. 
 Separation and sorrow are expressed in gentle and temperate, hut 
 unmistakable manner. Husband and wife, father and mother, 
 parent and children and relations offer the hand in parting ; and 
 when on the grave of a matron or maiden a festive scene is intro- 
 duced, a reference to death was never very remote. 
 
 But just as in Athens we are made sensible that classic art is 
 not a mere historical phenomenon like hundreds of others, but has 
 a definite retrospective value which cannot be ignored , there it is 
 that our regrets for all that is lost or destroyed must be most pro- 
 found. Even now we are linked by a thousand invisible chains 
 to the inspired achievements of the foremost Greeks. Travel and 
 life in these southern lands will tend not a little to awaken and 
 foster the conviction that we should do ill to sever these bonds. 
 He to whom this conviction remains, even though it be the solitary 
 fruit of his travel, will have little occasion for regret. 
 
History of the Kingdom of Naples. 
 
 The former kingdom of Naples contained at the end of 1878 
 10,328,000 inhab. (including Benevento) , and is divided into 16 
 provinces. In ancient times it embraced the tribes of the Volsci , 
 Samnites , Oscans , Campanians , Apulians , Lucanians , Calabrians , 
 Bruttians , Siculians , and a number of others of less importance, 
 all of whom were characterised by the most marked peculiarities 
 of language , custom , and political constitution. The Oscan lan- 
 guage , the one most generally spoken , predominated in Samnium, 
 Campania, Lucania , and Bruttium. On the W. and S.W. coast, 
 and especially in Sicily , Greek colonists settled in such numbers 
 that the S. portion of the Italian peninsula received the name of 
 Magna Graecia. After the war against Pyrrhus , king of Epirus, 
 in the 3rd cent, before Christ, the Romans became masters of the 
 land, but the Greek language and customs continued to predominate 
 until an advanced period in the Christian era. That this was the 
 case in the time of the early emperors has been distinctly proved 
 by the character of the antiquities of the excavated Oscan towns of 
 Herculaneum and Pompeii. After the fall of the Western Empire 
 this district was occupied by Ostrogoths and Lombards , then by 
 Romans from the E. Empire , who in their turn were constantly 
 harassed by Arabian bands which attacked them by sea , and who 
 finally succumbed in the 11th cent, to the Norman settlers. The 
 Hohenstaufen family next held the country from 1194 to 1254. In 
 1265 Charles of Anjou gained possession of Naples and established 
 his dominion , which was secured by the cruel execution in 1268 
 of Conradin, the lawful heir. His power, however, having been 
 impaired by the Sicilian Vespers , 30th May, 1282, rapidly declined 
 in consequence of the crimes and degeneracy of the royal family 
 and of disastrous wars with the island of Sicily, then in possession 
 of the Arragonese. Charles VIII . of France , as heir of the Anjou 
 family, undertook a campaign against Naples and gained possession 
 of the kingdom in a few days, but was unable to retain it. His 
 successor Louis XII. allied himself with Ferdinand the Catholic of 
 Spain with a view to conquer Naples, but in consequence of dis- 
 sensions was compelled to abandon his enterprise after the victory of 
 Gonsalvo da Cordova on the Liris. Naples, like Sicily and Sardinia, 
 then yielded to the power of Spain, which maintained her dominion 
 till 1713, Gonsalvo da Cordova was the first of the series of Spanish 
 
HISTORY OF NAPLES. 
 
 xlv 
 
 viceroys , many of whom , such as Don Pedro de Toledo under 
 Charles Y. (1532-54), did much to promote the welfare of the 
 country. The rule of others, especially during the 17th cent., was 
 such as to occasion universal distress and dissatisfaction , a mani- 
 festation of which was the insurrection under Masaniello at Naples 
 in 1647. At the peace of Utrecht in 1713 Philip Y. of Spain, of 
 the house of Bourbon, ceded Naples and Sicily to the house of 
 Hapsburg, hut after prolonged conflicts they reverted to his son 
 Charles in 1734, under the name of the 4 Kingdom of the Two Sici- 
 lies'. Notwithstanding revolutionary disturbances, the Bourbons 
 continued to reign at Naples until the close of the century. In 
 1806 Napoleon I. created his brother Joseph king of Naples, who 
 was succeeded in 1808 by his brother-in-law Joachim Murat . 
 In June, 1815, King Ferdinand, who with the aid of the English 
 had meanwhile maintained his ground in Sicily, returned to 
 Naples , and in his person the Bourbon dynasty was restored. 
 The following October, Joachim Murat ventured to land at Pizzo 
 in Calabria, but was captured, tried by court-martial , and shot, 
 15th Oct. 1815. Popular dissatisfaction, however, still continued, 
 and in 1820 a rebellion broke out in Italy and Sicily, but it was 
 speedily quelled by the Austrians under Frimont in 1821 , who 
 occupied the country till 1827. King Ferdinand I. was succeeded 
 in 1825 by his eldest son Francis 1 . , and the latter in 1830 by 
 Ferdinand //., whose reign was characterised by an uninterrupted 
 succession of internal struggles, partly in Naples and partly in Si- 
 cily , especially after the year 1848. In the spring of 1859, when 
 the war between Sardinia and Austria broke out in N. Italy, which 
 by the peace of Yillafranca would have entirely changed the inter- 
 nal condition of Italy, Ferdinand II. died, and his son Francis II. 
 (married to the Princess Mary of Bavaria) was compelled to yield 
 to the storm which burst forth afresh. In May, 1860, Garibaldi 
 began his victorious march through Sicily and Calabria, which 
 ended at Naples in August. In the meantime the Piedmontese 
 troops, at the instigation of Cavour, had also entered the kingdom 
 of Naples. On 1st Oct. Francis II. was defeated at a skirmish on 
 the Yolturno. On 7th Oct. King Victor Emmanuel and Garibaldi 
 entered Naples side by side amid the greatest popular enthusiasm. 
 Francis was then besieged at Gaeta from 4th Nov., 1860, to 13th 
 Feb., 1861, and at length compelled to surrender and retire to 
 Rome. 
 
 In a land , whose history , like its volcanic soil, has been dis- 
 turbed by a long succession of internal struggles , and where so 
 many and so different nations have ruled, repose and the develop- 
 ment of civilisation must necessarily be difficult of attainment. 
 The present government has adopted a wise course in endeavouring 
 to raise the standard of national education , in energetically sup- 
 pressing the brigandage in the provinces , and the ‘Camorra’ and 
 
xlvi 
 
 HISTORY OF NAPLES. 
 
 gangs of thieves in the city , and in introducing a number of re- 
 forms well adapted to improve the condition of the nation. 
 
 Dates. The following are the most important dates in the 
 history of the Kingdom of Naples (comp. pp. 242, 243). 
 
 I. Period. The Normans , 1042-1194: 1042, William, son of 
 Tailored of Hauteville , Comes Apulise. — 1059, Robert Guiscard 
 (i. e. ‘the Cunning’) , Dux Apulise et Calabrise. — 1130, Roger, 
 proclaimed king after the conquest of Naples and Amalfi , unites 
 the whole of Lower Italy and Sicily. — 1154-66, William I. (‘the 
 Bad’). — 1166-89, William II. (‘the Good’). — 1194, William III. 
 
 II. Period. The Hohenstaufen , 1194-1268: 1194, Henry VI. 
 of Germany, I. of Naples. — 1197, Frederick II. — 1250, Conrad. 
 « — 1254, Manfred. — 1268, Conradin. 
 
 III. Period. House of Anjou, 1265-1442: 1265, Charles I. of 
 Anjou. From 1282 to 1442 Sicily formed an independent king- 
 dom under the house of Arragon. — 1285, Charles II., ‘the Lame’. 
 
 — 1309, Robert ‘the Wise’. — 1343, Johanna I. (married Andreas 
 of Hungary). — 1381, Charles III. of Durazzo. — 1386, Ladislaus. 
 
 — 1414, Johanna II. — 1435, Renato of Anjou, banished by Al- 
 phonso ‘the Generous’. 
 
 IY. Period. House of Arragon, 1442-1496: 1442, Alphonso I., 
 ‘the Generous’. After his death Sicily and Naples were again 
 separated. — 1458, Ferdinand I. — 1494, Alphonso II. — 1495, 
 Ferdinand II. — 1496, Frederick banished (d. 1554 at Tours, the 
 last of the House of Arragon). 
 
 Y. Period. Spanish Viceroys, 1503-1707. — On 7th July, 
 1707, during the Spanish War of Succession, Count Daun marched 
 into Naples and established the Austrian supremacy. 
 
 YI. Period. Austrian Viceroys, 1707-1734. — Charles III. of 
 Bourbon , crowned at Palermo 1734 , recognised by the Peace of 
 Yienna 1738, defeats the Austrians at Yelletri 1744, finally re- 
 cognised by the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle 1748. In 1758 Charles 
 was proclaimed king of Spain , and resigned the crown of Naples 
 and Sicily in favour of his son. 
 
 VII. Period. The Bourbons, 1734-1860: 1734, Charles III. — 
 1759, Ferdinand IY. (regency during his minority till 1767J, mar- 
 ried Caroline of Austria, sister of Joseph II., but a monarch of 
 very different character from the latter. — 23rd Jan. 1799, the 
 Repubblica Parthenopea proclaimed by General Championnet. — 
 14th June, 1799, the French banished. Reaction of Cardinal Ruffo. 
 
 • — 14th Jan., 1806, Joseph Buonaparte established by Massena. — 
 15th July, 1808, Joachim Murat, king of Naples. — 1816, Ferdi- 
 nand assumes the title of Ferdinand I. of the Two Sicilies. — 
 1825, Francis I. — 1830, Ferdinand II. — 1859, Francis II. — 
 21st Oct. 1860 , the Kingdom of Naples annexed to Italy by 
 plebiscite 
 
HISTORY OF NAPLES. 
 
 xlvii 
 
 VIII. Period. House of Savoy, Victor Emmanuel II. (d. 1878). 
 — Since 1878, Humbert I. 
 
 Art. In art , as in literature , the attainments of the natives 
 of S. Italy have been insignificant. The Norman Period, however, 
 under Arabian influence , produced both on the mainland and in 
 Sicily (p. 247) works of architecture and sculpture which at least 
 hold their own when compared with the contemporaneous monu- 
 ments of Central Italy. These, however, are not found in the metro- 
 polis, but at the seats of the princes and bishops, as Bari , Tram', 
 Amalfi , Kavello , and Salerno . The art of decoration, as applied in 
 mosaic flooring , pulpits , and choir-screens , was in particular 
 brought to great perfection. The brazen doors , at first imported 
 from Constantinople , were afterwards made in the country itself ; 
 thus those at Canosa were executed by a master of Amalfi, and 
 those at Ravello and Trani are the work of a native of the place 
 last named. The arts of mosaic composition and mural painting 
 were sedulously cultivated in S. Italy during the whole of the 
 early middle ages , a fact mainly due to the constant intercourse 
 maintained with Byzantium. — In the Period of Giotto, during 
 which great advances in painting were made throughout the rest 
 of the peninsula, S. Italy remained nearly inactive, content to 
 depend on foreign artists for the supply of her artistic wants. 
 Thus Arnolfo di Cambio , the famous Florentine architect, also 
 practised his profession in the South ; and Pietro Cavallini , the 
 most celebrated Roman painter at the beginning of the 14th cent., 
 Giotto himself (in S. Chiara) , and probably Simone Martini of 
 Siena, all left memorials of their skill in S. Italy. — During 
 the Fifteenth Century the realism of the Flemish school of the 
 Van Eycks produced a marked effect on Neapolitan art. The 
 most important works of this period are the frescoes, unfor- 
 tunately in poor preservation, in the cloisters of S. Severino at 
 Naples. They are associated with the name of Antonio Solario , 
 Uo Zingaro\ an artist of whose life and work we possess most im- 
 perfect and in part misleading accounts. To judge from these 
 paintings he was related in style to the Umbro-Florentine school. 
 Piero and Ippolito Donzello and Simone Papa are said to have 
 been pupils of Lo Zingaro, but Piero Donzello at any rate learned 
 his art at Florence. 
 
 In the Sixteenth Century Raphael’s influence extended even 
 to Naples, as is apparent from the works, among others, of Andrea 
 Sabbatini of Salerno, known as Andrea da Salerno , who flourished 
 in 1480-1545. This artist studied under Raphael at Rome, and, 
 like Polidoro da Caravaggio (1495-1548) , was one of the foun- 
 ders of the Neapolitan school of the 17th century. — In the Sev- 
 enteenth Century the Neapolitan school is characterised by its 
 ‘naturalistic’ style. Among the most prominent masters were the 
 
xlviii 
 
 HISTORY OP NAPLES. 
 
 Spaniard Giuseppe Ribera , surnamed lo Spagnoletto (1588-1656), 
 a follower of Caravaggio; the Greek Belisario Corenzio (1558- 
 1643), a pupil of the last; Giambattista Caracciolo (d. 1641), and 
 his able pupil Massimo Stanzioni (1585-1656). The school of 
 Spagnoletto also produced Aniello Falcone (1600-65), the painter 
 of battle-scenes, and the talented landscape-painter Salvator Rosa 
 (1615-1673). In 1629 Domenichino came from Rome to Naples, to 
 decorate the Cappella del Tesoro for the Archbishop , but seems 
 to have exercised no influence upon Neapolitan art. He fled to 
 Frascati in 1635, to escape the plots laid for him by Ribera, but 
 returned to Naples the following year and died there in 1641. In 
 Luca Giordano (1632-1705), surnamed Fa Presto from his rapid- 
 ity of execution, who also worked at Rome, Bologna, Parma, 
 and Venice, Neapolitan painting reached a still lower level. — 
 The history of Neapolitan art is as yet imperfectly investigated, 
 but there seems little reason to doubt that farther research will 
 serve to confirm the conclusion that Naples has never been able to 
 dispense with the assistance of foreign artists. 
 
1. From Rome to Naples by Railway. 
 
 Two main roads lead from Rome to Naples : one along the coast by 
 Terracina (R. 2), the ancient Via Appia ; the other through the valley of 
 the Sacco and Garigliano, the Via Latina; both uniting near Capua. 
 
 The Railway, completed in 1862 (162 M. in length), is now the most 
 important means of communication between Central and Southern Italy. 
 Duration of journey 7-10 hrs. ; fares by the through trains, 34 fr. 25 c., 
 23 fr. 50 c. ^ by the ordinary trains, 28 fr. 75, 19 fr. 90 c., 14 fr. — Comp, 
 p. xviii. 
 
 The finest views are generally to the left. — For a more detailed de- 
 scription of the stations between Rome and Segni, see Baedeker's Central 
 Italy. 
 
 Soon after leaving the city, the train diverges from the Civitk 
 Yecchia line. On the right rise the arches of the Acqna Felice and 
 the Acqua Marcia, and beyond them are the tombs of the Yia Appia. 
 The Sabine and Alban mountains rise on the left. Stations: 9 M. 
 Ciampino , where the line to Frascati diverges; 11 M. Marino ; 
 18 M. Albano , 2M. from the town. To the right we obtain a glimpse 
 of Monte Circello (1771 ft.; p. 13), rising abruptly from the sea; 
 nearer are the Yolscian Mts. — 2072 M. Civitd Lavinia , the ancient 
 Lanuvium. 
 
 25t/2 M. Velletri ( Locanda Campana , *Gallo , each with a Trat- 
 toria), the ancient Velitrae , a town of the Yolscians, which became 
 subject to Rome in B. C. 338, is famous for its wine (pop. 16,500). 
 It stands picturesquely on a spur of the Monte Artemisio , nearly 
 t /2 M. from the station. The streets are narrow and crooked. Vel- 
 letri is the residence of the Bishop of Ostia. The loggia of the 
 Palazzo Lancelotti commands a beautiful and extensive view. 
 Diligence from Yelletri to Cori , see Handbook for Central Italy; 
 to Terracina, see p. 11. 
 
 The train passes between Mte. Artemisio and Mte. Ariano 
 (Alban Mts.) on the left, and Mte. Santangelo and Mte. Lupone 
 (Yolscian Mts.) on the right, and turns E. towards the valley near 
 the Mte. Fortino, in which lies — • 
 
 3573 M. Valmontone , a small town on an isolated volcanic 
 eminence, possessing a handsome chateau of the Doria Pamphili. 
 
 The train now enters the valley of the Sacco , the ancient 
 Trerus or Tolerus , and skirts its left bank, running parallel with 
 the ancient Via Latina. This well-cultivated valley , bounded on 
 both sides by mountains rising to a height of 4000 ft., was the ter- 
 ritory of the Hernici (see below). To the right Monte Fortino , 
 picturesquely situated on the hill-side. 
 
 4072 M. Segni, the Signia of the Romans, founded by the last 
 Tarquin with a view to keep the Volsci and Hernici in check , 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 1 
 
2 Route 1. 
 
 ANAGNI. 
 
 From Rome 
 
 and still possessing huge remnants of the ancient walls and gate- 
 ways , is a very venerable place , situated on the hill to the right, 
 about 51/2 M. from the railway. 
 
 46 M. Anagni (*Locanda d! Italia), once a flourishing town, 
 and in the middle ages frequently a papal residence, lies on the 
 heights to the left, 5 M. from the station (omnibus 1 fr.). Here, 
 on 7th Sept. 1303, Pope Boniface VIII., then considerably ad- 
 vanced in years , was taken prisoner by the French knight 
 Guillaume de Nogaret, acting in concert with the Colonnas, by 
 order of King Philippe le Bel, but was set at liberty by the 
 people three days afterwards. The *Cattedrale di S. Maria , a well- 
 preserved edifice of the 11th cent. , and pure in style, is adorned 
 with a mosaic pavement by the master Cosmas , and in the crypt 
 with ancient frescoes. The treasury contains vestments of Inno- 
 cent III. and Boniface VIII. 
 
 The next towns, with the imposing ruins of their ancient 
 polygonal walls, are also situated on the hills at a considerable 
 distance from the line. This is the territory of the Hernici, 
 with the towns of Anagnia , Aletrium , Ferentinum , and Verulae , 
 which allied themselves with Rome and Latium in B. C. 486, 
 but were subjugated by the Romans, after an insurrection, in 
 B. C. 306. The environs of these towns are picturesque. 
 
 491/2 M. Sgurgola (from which Anagni may also be reached : 
 4 M.) is a village on the hill to the right, above the Sacco; still 
 higher is Carpineto. 
 
 5572 M. Ferentino. The town lies on the hill (1450 ft.) to 
 the left, 3 M. from the line. 
 
 Ferentino (Hotel des Etrangers ), the ancient Ferentinum , a 
 town of the Volsci, afterwards of the Hernici, was destroyed in 
 the 2nd Punic War, and afterwards became a Roman colony 
 (pop. 10,200). The ancient polygonal town-wall is still traceable 
 throughout nearly its whole circuit; a gateway on the W. side 
 especially deserves notice. The castle, whose walls now form the 
 foundation of the episcopal palace, occupies the highest ground 
 within the town. The Cathedral is paved with remains of an- 
 cient marbles and mosaics. The font in the small church of 
 8. Giovanni Evangelista is ancient. Interesting antiquities and 
 inscriptions will also be observed in other parts of the town. 
 
 Higher up among the mountains, 9 J /2 M. from Ferentino, and about the 
 same distance from Frosinone (see below) and Anagni, lies the town of 
 Alatri, the ancient Aletrium , picturesquely situated on an eminence, and 
 presenting an admirably preserved specimen of the fortifications of an an- 
 cient city. The "Walls of the castle, constructed of huge polygonal 
 blocks, are still entire ; the gateway attracts special attention on account 
 of the stupendous dimensions of the stones of which it is composed. The 
 town with its gates occupies the exact site of the ancient town. Below it 
 the direction of the walls may be traced. The town and castle were pro- 
 vided with an aqueduct, a work which testifies *0 -the skill in hydrodyna- 
 mics attained in ancient times, as the water must have been forced up- 
 wards from the valley from a depth of 330 ft. 
 
to Naples . 
 
 CEPRANO. 
 
 / . Route. 3 
 
 At a distance of 3 M. is the famous * Grotta di Collepardo , extending 
 upwards of 2000 ft. into the limestone rock, with beautiful stalactites. 
 About 3 /“» M. farther is observed an extensive depression in the soil, called 
 II Pozzo d'Antullo , several hundred yards in circumference and 200 ft. in 
 depth, overgrown with grass and underwood. 
 
 On a hill , about 5 M. to the S. E. of Alatri , is situated Veroli , the 
 ancient Verulae, from which a road leads to Isola and Sora (p. 197). 
 
 GO 1 ^ M. Frosinone. The town (Locanda de Matteis; pop. 
 10,600), situated on the hill , 2M. from the railway, is identical 
 with the ancient Yolscian Frusino , which was conquered by the 
 Romans in B. C. 304. The relics of walls and other antiquities are 
 scanty, but the situation is very beautiful. 
 
 70 M. Ceccano. The village is most picturesquely situated on the 
 hill-side , on the right bank of the Sacco, the valley of which 
 now contracts. At the foot of the hill, to the left of the river, 
 once lay the ancient Fabrateria Vetus, numerous inscriptions from 
 which are built into the walls of the church by the bridge. A 
 road leads from Ceccano over the hills to Piperno and Terra- 
 cina (p. 18). 
 
 70 M. Pofi. 76 M. Ceprano, formerly the frontier station ( Re- 
 freshment Room). Outside the station a pleasing glimpse is obtain- 
 ed of the valleys of the Liris and the Tolerus. The town of Ceprano 
 is 2i/ 2 M. from the station. 
 
 The train now crosses the Liris , which descends from the N., 
 from the region of the Lago Fucino, forming the old boundary of 
 the States of the Church. 77^2 M. Isoletta. 
 
 In the vicinity, on tbe right bank of the Liris, in the direction of 
 S. Giovanni in Carico , are the scanty ruins o^the ancient Fregellae , a 
 Roman colony founded in B. C. 328, and a point of great military im- 
 portance, as it commanded the passage of the river. It was destroyed 
 by the Romans in B. C. 125, in consequence of an insurrection, and Fabra- 
 teria Nova was founded in its stead. A number of antiquities may be 
 seen in the Giardino Cairo , at the village of S. Giovanni in Carico, 3 M. 
 from the station. 
 
 The train now traverses the broad and fertile valley of the 
 Liris , or Garigliano , as it is called after its union with the 
 Sacco. 82^2 M. Roccasecca. Diligence hence to the valley of 
 the Liris and the Lago Fucino , in connection with the night- 
 trains to and from Naples , see R. 17. 
 
 85^2 M. Aquino, the ancient Aquinum , a small town pic- 
 turesquely situated on the hill to the left , is celebrated as the 
 birthplace of the satirist Juvenal (under Domitian) and of the phi- 
 losopher Thomas Aquinas. The illustrious ‘ doctor angelicus son 
 of Count Landulf, was born in 1224 in the neighbouring castle 
 of Rocca Secca, and was educated in the monastery of Monte 
 Casino (p. 5). The Emperor Pescennius Niger was also a native 
 of Aquinum. 
 
 Aquino lies on a mountain stream, in a beautiful and salu- 
 brious district. By the side of the Yia Latina may be distin- 
 guished the relics of the ancient Roman town : inconsiderable frag- 
 ments of walls, a gateway (Porta S. Lorenzo), a theatre, remains 
 
 1* 
 
4 Route 1 . 
 
 SAN GERMANO. 
 
 From Rome 
 
 of temples of Ceres (S. Pietro) and Diana (S. Maria Maddalena), 
 and a triumphal arch. Near the stream are the ruins of S. Maria 
 Libera , a basilica of the 11th cent., commonly called It Vescovado, 
 occupying the site of an ancient temple, and consisting of hand- 
 some nave and aisles. Above the portal is a well-preserved Madonna 
 in mosaic. 
 
 Beyond Aquino, on a bleak mountain to the left, the cele- 
 brated monastery of Monte Casino (p. 5) becomes visible. 
 
 93 M. San Germano. — Carriage from the station to the town 
 V 2 fr. (bargain necessary). — Inns. - Alb. Pompei, prettily situated and 
 clean, It. 2, pens, from 5 V 2 fr. 5 Alb. Varrone, outside the town, on the 
 site of the villa of M. Terentius Varro (p. 5). 
 
 A visit to S. Germano and Monte Casino may easily be accomplished 
 within a stay of 24 hrs. (Luggage may either be forwarded direct from 
 Rome to Naples, or left at the S. Germano station.) On arriving, the tra- 
 veller , having partaken of some refreshment in the town , may either 
 first explore the ruins of Casinum (for which , however , he would have 
 time on the following day) , or proceed at once to the monastery of 
 Monte Casino (B /2 hr. \ donkey P /2 fr.)* The excursion should be so 
 arranged that the traveller may return to the town a considerable time 
 before sunset $ at the same time it must be borne in mind that visitors 
 are strictly excluded from 12 to 3. 30 o’clock. The monastery is justly 
 noted for its hospitality, and affords good quarters for the night, although 
 the fare is sometimes of a frugal description. No payment is demanded, 
 but the traveller should give about as much as he would have paid at a 
 hotel. Ladies are of course admitted to the church only. Travellers who 
 wish to spend the night or dine here should apply to the padre for estieraio. 
 Letters of introduction will be found very useful. At an early hour on 
 Sundays and holidays the church and courts of the monastery are crowded 
 with country-people from the neighbouring mountain districts , whose 
 characteristic physiognomies and costumes will be scanned with interest 
 by the traveller. Those who return to S. Germano to pass the night 
 should allow 5 hrs. for the whole excursion. 
 
 San Germano , which has of late resumed its ancient name of 
 Cassino , a town with 13,300 inhab., is picturesquely situated in 
 the plain at the foot of the Monte Casino, on the small river Rapido 
 (Lat. Vinius ), 3 / 4 M. from the station, and is commanded by a 
 ruined castle. It occupies nearly the same site as the ancient 
 Casinum , which was colonised by the Romans in B.C. 312, and 
 was afterwards a flourishing provincial town. On its ruins sprang 
 up San Germano during the middle ages. Pillars of great anti- 
 
 quity are still to be seen in the churches. Various courts have 
 been held here by popes and emperors, and in 1230 peace was 
 concluded here between Gregory IX. and Frederick II. The foggy 
 character of the climate is alluded to by the ancients. 
 
 After traversing the uninteresting town, we turn to the left 
 and follow the road coming from the N., which coincides with 
 the Via Latina. About ^2 M. from the town, on the right, are 
 situated the colossal remains of an * Amphitheatre, which, accord- 
 ing to an inscription preserved at Monte Casino, was erected by 
 Ummidia Quadratilla at her own expense. The foundress is men- 
 tioned by Pliny in his letters (vii. 24) as a lady of great wealth, 
 who up to a very advanced age was an ardent admirer of theatrical 
 
to Naples. 
 
 MONTE CASINO. 
 
 1 . Route. 5 
 
 performances. Farther on, and a little higher up, stands a square 
 monument built of large blocks of travertine, with four niches, and 
 surmounted by a dome, now converted into the church *Del 
 Crocefisso (custodian 3-4 soldi). On the opposite bank of the 
 Rapido lay the villa of M. Terentius Varro, where, as we are 
 informed by Cicero (Phil. ii. 40), M. Antony afterwards indulg- 
 ed in his wild orgies. — The path leading back to the town from 
 Crocefisso is probably the ancient Yia Latina, and traces of anci- 
 ent pavement are occasionally observed. From this path, by keep- 
 ing to the high ground to the left , we may proceed to Monte 
 Casino without returning to the town. 
 
 The monastery of * Monte Casino, situated on a lofty hill 
 to the W. of the town, is reached in l 1 ^ hr. The path, which 
 cannot be mistaken, affords exquisite views of the valley of the 
 Garigliano and the surrounding mountains. The monastery was 
 founded by St. Benedict in 529, on the site of an ancient temple 
 of Apollo, to which Dante alludes (Parad. xxii. 37), and from 
 its magnificent situation alone would be entitled to a visit. 
 
 The extensive edifice, the interior of which resembles a castle rather 
 than a monastery, is entered by a low passage through the rock, where 
 St. Benedict is said to have had his cell. Several Courts are connected by 
 arcades. The central one has a fountain of very good water, adorned with 
 statues of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica. On a square space 
 higher up, enclosed by columns from the ancient temple of Apollo, stands 
 the Church, erected in 1727 to replace the ancient edifice founded by St. 
 Benedict. The fortunes of the abbey are recorded in Latin above the 
 entrance of the hall. The principal door of the church is of bronze 
 and is inscribed with a list, inlaid in silver, of all the possessions of the 
 abbey in 1066. It was executed at Constantinople by order of the Abbot 
 Desiderius, afterwards Pope Victor III. The interior is richly decorated 
 with marble, mosaics, and paintings. On each side of the high altar 
 is a mausoleum ; one to the memory of Pietro de 1 Medici (p. 18), who 
 was drowned in the Garigliano in 1503, executed by Francesco Sangallo by 
 order of Clement VII. $ the other that of Guidone Fieramosca, last Prince 
 of Mignano. Beneath the high altar, with its rich marble decorations, re- 
 pose the remains of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica. The sub- 
 terranean chapel contains paintings by Marco da Siena and Mazzaroppi. 
 The choir-stalls are adorned with admirable carving (by Coliccio , 1696), 
 and the chapels adjoining the altar with costly mosaics. Above the doors 
 and on the ceiling are frescoes by Luca Giordano (1677), representing tl^e 
 miracles of St. Benedict and the foundation of the church. The organ i\ 
 one of the finest in Italy. In the refectory is the ‘Miracle of the Loaves 1 , 
 by Bassano. 
 
 At a very early period the Library was celebrated for the MSS. 
 executed by the monks. To the Abbot Desiderius of the 11th cent, we 
 are probably indebted for the preservation of Varro, and perhaps of other 
 authors. The handsome saloon at present contains a collection of about 
 10,000 vols., among which are numerous rare editions published during the 
 infancy of the printer’s art. The MSS. and documents are preserved in the 
 archives, in the passage leading to which a number of inscriptions are built 
 into the wall, most of them rescued from the ruins of the ancient Casinum. 
 Among the MSS. are : the commentary of Origen on the Epistle to the 
 Romans, translated by Rufus, dating from the 6th cent. ; a Dante with mar- 
 ginal notes, of the 14th cent, (the archives contain an interesting portrait 
 of the poet); the vision of the monk Alberic, which is said to have sug- 
 gested the first idea on which Dante founded his work ; various classical 
 authors, the original MSS. of Leo of Ostia and Riccardo di San Germano. 
 
6 Route 1. 
 
 MONTE CASINO. 
 
 From Rome 
 
 The "Archives comprise a still rarer collection, consisting of about 800 
 documents of emperors, kings, dukes, etc., and the complete series of 
 papal bulls which relate to Monte Casino, beginning with the 11th cent., 
 many of them with admirable seals and impressions. Among the letters 
 are those exchanged by Don Erasmo Gattola , the historian of the abbey, 
 with learned contemporaries. At the end of an Italian translation of 
 Boccaccio’s ‘De Claris Mulieribus’ is a letter of Sultan Mohammed II. to 
 Pope Nicholas IV., complaining of the pontiff’s preparations for war and 
 promising to be converted as soon as he should visit Rome, together 
 with an unfavourable answer from the pope. An ancient bath-seat in 
 rosso antico, found on the bank of the Liris, is also preserved here. The 
 tower in which St. Benedict is said to have lived contains pictures by 
 Novelli , Spagnoletto , and others. 
 
 The Benedictine monastery of Monte Casino, which will pro- 
 bably be allowed to continue its existence in the form of an edu- 
 cational establishment, has ever been conspicuous for the admirable 
 manner in which its inmates have discharged their higher duties. 
 They are the intelligent keepers of one of the most precious libraries 
 in the world, and they educate about eighty students of theology. 
 The monks at present number about thirty, including Tosti, the 
 historian of literature , and there are ten lay brethren , twenty 
 pupils of the upper classes, and numerous servants. The institution 
 also comprises a telegraph-office and a printing-office. The revenues 
 once amounted to 100,000 ducats per annum, but are now reduced 
 to about 20,000. 
 
 The monastery commands a magnificent prospect in all di- 
 rections, which the visitor should not omit to enjoy from the 
 different points of view. To the W. and S. extends the broad 
 valley of the Garigliano with its numerous villages, separated from 
 the Gulf of Gaeta by a range of hills, and the sea is occasionally 
 distinguishable. To the E. is the valley of S. Germano, com- 
 manded by the rocky summits of the Abruzzi. To the N. a wild 
 mountainous district. 
 
 Close to tbe monastery rises the Monte Cairo , upwards of 5000 ft. in 
 beigbt, which may be ascended in 3-4 hrs.; the view from the summit 
 is considered one of the finest in Italy, extending from M. Cavo in the 
 Alban range to Camaldoli near Naples. 
 
 Continuation of Journey to Naples. To the left, beyond 
 S. Germano, we perceive the villages of Cervaro , S. Vittore , and 
 S. Pietro in Fine. 100 M. Rocca d’Evandro. The train quits the 
 valley of the Garigliano, and enters a richly cultivated defile, 
 beyond which the country towards the right becomes flatter. 
 104V2 Mignano. The train now runs towards the S. through a 
 a barren, undulating tract, which separates the Garigliano from the 
 Volturno. 107 M. Presenzano , which lies on the slope to the left. 
 
 114 M. Caianiello Vairano , whence a high road leads through 
 the Abruzzi to Pescara on the Gulf of Venice (R. 15), and to Aquila 
 and Terni (R. 16). 
 
 1 lT 1 /^ M. Riardo ; the village, with an old castle, lies on the 
 left. 
 
 121 M. Teano ; the town (Locanda dell’ Italia; 5000 inhab.) 
 
to Naples. 
 
 CAPUA. 
 
 1 . Route. 7 
 
 lies at some distance to the right, at the base of the lofty Rocca 
 Monfina , an extinct volcano (3420 ft.). The extensive, but 
 dilapidated old castle was erected in the 15th cent, by the dukes 
 of Sessa. Ancient columns in the cathedral, inscriptions, remains 
 of a theatre, and other antiquities are now the sole vestiges of 
 the venerable Teanum Sidicinum , once the capital of the Sidicini, 
 which was conquered by the Samnites in the 4th cent. B. C., after- 
 wards subjugated by the Romans, and in Strabo’s time the most 
 flourishing inland city of Campania after Capua. 
 
 From Teano the train turns to the right to the village of — 
 
 12572 M. Sparanisi, whence a road leads to Gaeta (p. 17). 
 
 About 4 M. to the N. E. of the railway to the left lies Calvi , the 
 ancient Cales , a Roman colony founded B. C. 332, the wine of which 
 (vinum Calenum) is praised by Horace. It now consists of a few houses 
 only, but contains an ancient amphitheatre, a theatre, and other anti- 
 quities. Carriage with one horse from Capua, and back, 2-3 fr. 
 
 As the train proceeds we obtain for the first time a view of Mt. 
 Vesuvius in the distance to the right, and then of the island of 
 Ischia in the same direction. 12472 M. Pignataro. The train now 
 intersects the plain of the Volturno , a river 94 M. in length, the 
 longest in Lower Italy. We now enter upon the vast plains of the 
 ancient Campania (now Terra di Lavoro ), which, like the Cam- 
 pagna di Roma, are of volcanic origin , but incomparably superior 
 in fertility, and admirably cultivated. The district, one of the 
 most luxuriant in Europe , is capable of yielding, in addition to 
 the produce of the dense plantations of fruit-trees, two crops of 
 grain and one of hay in the same season. 
 
 135 M. Capua. — Inns. Albergo & Trattoria del Centro, in 
 the Piazza de 1 Giudici. — Carriage from the station to the town with 
 one horse (cittadina) 25 with two horses (carozza) 50 c. ; per hour, 1 or 
 2 fr. \ to Caserta 1 fr. 90 or 3 fr. 90 c. ; to Aversa 3 or 6 fr. •, to S. Maria 
 Capua Vetere 90 c. or 2 fr.$ to S. Angelo in Formis 1 fr. 20 or 2 fr. 50 c. 
 
 Capua , a fortified town with 13,300 inhab., the residence of 
 an archbishop, lies on the left bank of the Volturno, by which the 
 greater part of it is surrounded. It was erected in the 9th cent., 
 after the destruction of the ancient Capua, on the site of Casi- 
 linum , a town which was conquered by Hannibal after an obstinate 
 resistance, and fell to decay in the time of the emperors. Turn- 
 ing to the right on entering the town, and taking the first street 
 to the left, we reach the Piazza de’ Giudici, or market-place in 
 6 min., and then enter the Via del Duomo to the right. 
 
 The Cathedral , dating from the 11th cent., possesses a hand- 
 some entrance court with ancient columns, but in other respects 
 has been entirely modernised. 
 
 Interior. 3rd Chapel on the left: Madonna della Rosa of the 13tli 
 century. 3rd Chapel on the right: Madonna with two saints by Silvestro 
 de y Buoni. The Crypt, dating from the Romanesque period, but now mo- 
 dernised, contains Mosaics from an old pulpit, a Roman Sarcophagus 
 with a representation of the Hunt of Meleager, and a Holy Sepulchre by 
 Bernini , being one of his best works. 
 
 The Via del Duomo, passing through an archway, leads to the 
 
8 Route 1. S. MAIilA 1)1 CAPUA VETERE. From Rome 
 
 Corso Museo Campano. (Proceeding thence in a straight direction, 
 we may reach the ramparts, which command a pleasing view of 
 the Volturno.) In this street, on the right, is situated the Museo 
 Campano , which is entered from the first side-street on the right. 
 It is open to the public daily, 9-3 o’ clock, except on Sundays and 
 festivals. 
 
 The Court contains reliefs from the amphitheatre of Capua (see below) ; 
 inscriptions; ancient sarcophagi, including one of the period of Con- 
 stantine; medieeval tomb-monuments; a sitting statue of Frederick II. 
 (now sadly mutilated and without its head), which formerly surmounted 
 the gateway of the tete-de-pont constructed by him on the right bank of 
 the Volturno about 1240, and destroyed in 1557; heads of statues of Pe- 
 trus de Vineis and Thaddseus of Suessa, and a colossal head of ‘Capua 
 Imperiale 1 (casts at the Museo Nazionale in Naples), also from Frede- 
 rick II. ’s tete-de-pont. The rooms in the Interior contain ancient ter- 
 racottas, vases, coins, a few pictures of little value, and a small library. 
 
 The bridge across the Yolturno, restored in 1756, is adorned 
 with a statue of St. Nepomuc. Beyond it is an inscription in 
 memory of the Emperor Frederick II. The Torre Mignana within, 
 and the Cappella de J Morti without the town commemorate the 
 sanguinary attack made on Capua by Caesar Borgia in 1501, on 
 which occasion 5000 lives were sacrificed. 
 
 On our left after the train has crossed the Yolturno, lies the 
 battle-field on which King Francis II. was defeated by the Gari- 
 baldians and Piedmontese on 1st Oct. 1860. 
 
 139 M. S- Maria di Capua Vetere ( Locanda Roma) is a prosper- 
 ous little town, on the site of the celebrated ancient Capua, contain- 
 ing some interesting ruins. 
 
 Capua , founded by the Etruscans and afterwards occupied by Sabellian 
 tribes, entered into alliance with the Romans B.C. 343, for the sake of protec- 
 tion against the attacks of the Samnites. Owing to the luxuriant fertility of 
 the district, the power and wealth of the city developed themselves at an 
 early period, but it soon became noted for its effeminacy and degeneracy. 
 When in the zenith of its prosperity it was the largest city in Italy after Rome 
 and contained 300,000 inhabitants. In the 2nd Punic War, after the battle of 
 Cannse (B. C. 216), it entered into an alliance with Hannibal, who took up his 
 winter-quarters here. That his army had become so enervated by their resi- 
 dence at Capua as no longer to be a match for the Romans, is doubtless a mere 
 hypothesis. Certain, however, it is, that the Romans soon regained their su- 
 periority, and after along siege reduced the town, B. C. 211. Its punishment 
 was a severe one, and the inhabitants were entirely deprived of all civic pri- 
 vileges. It was rescued from its abject condition by Csesar, and under his suc- 
 cessors regained its ancient splendour. It continued to prosper until the wars 
 of the Goths, Vandals, and Lombards. In the 8th cent, it was destroyed by the 
 Saracens, and the inhabitants emigrated to the modern Capua (p. 7). 
 
 Proceeding straight from the station, taking the first street to 
 the left, and following the Yia S. Sebastiano in nearly the same 
 direction to its farther end (5 min.), we turn to the left into the 
 Yia Anfiteatro which leads in a curve round the town to (10 min.) 
 the ancient amphitheatre. Before reaching it, we cross an open space 
 where we observe on the left the ruins of a Roman Triumphal Arch , 
 now a gate, through which the Capua road passes. 
 
 The ^Amphitheatre of Capua (adm. 1 fr. for each pers.), 
 which is said to be the most ancient, and after the Colosseum at 
 
to Naples. 
 
 CASERTA. 
 
 / . Route. 9 
 
 Rome the largest, in Italy, is constructed of travertine. The longer 
 diameter is 185 yds., the shorter 152 yds. in length. The arena 
 measures 88 yds. by 49 yds. Three of its passages are tolerably 
 well preserved , but of the 80 entrance - arches two only. The 
 keystones are decorated with images of gods. The Arena , with 
 its substructions, passages, and dens for the wild beasts (to which 
 a staircase descends from the passage to the left), is, like that 
 of Pozzuoli, better defined than that of the Colosseum at Rome. 
 The Passages contain remains of ancient decorations , fragments 
 of columns, bas-reliefs, etc. To the right, near the entrance, 
 the visitor may ascend to the upper part of the structure, in 
 order to obtain a survey of the ruins themselves, and of the ex- 
 tensive surrounding plain. Large schools were once maintained 
 at Capua for the training of gladiators, and it was here in B.C. 
 88, that the dangerous War of the Gladiators under Spartacus the 
 Thracian broke out, which was with difficulty quelled by Crassus 
 two years later. 
 
 Above Capua rises Mons Tifata , once the site of a temple of Jupiter, 
 now crowned by a chapel of S. Nicola. At its base, about 4^2 M. from 
 S. Maria, stands the old church of S. Angelo in Formis , with Byzantine 
 frescoes of the 11th cent, (valuable in the history of art), occupying the 
 site of a celebrated temple of Diana, around which a village had 
 established itself. 
 
 The high road from Capua to Maddaloni (p. 10) by S. Maria 
 and Caserta presents a scene of brisk traffic; and a drive by 
 carriage (p. 7) through this garden -like district is preferable to 
 the railway journey. The road from S. Maria to Caserta (a drive of 
 3 / 4 hr.) passes two handsome Roman tombs. 
 
 142Y‘2 M. Caserta — Hotels. *Vittoria, with garden, R. 2, B. 
 P/ 2 , pens. 7-10 fr. ; Villa Reale, well spoken of; both in the Via Vittoria; 
 Villa di Firenze, near the palace-, all with trattorie. — In the round 
 piazza with its colonnades, at the entrance to the town from the palace, 
 is a favourite Ca/4. 
 
 Carriage with one horse, per drive 35 c. pvettura semplice 1 still 
 cheaper), with two horses 60 c. ; to S. Maria di Capua Vetere 1 fr. 40 or 
 2 fr. 30, to Capua 2 fr. 75 or 3 fr. 90 c. 
 
 For a Visit to the Palace (interior 9-4; the garden till sunset) a per- 
 messo from the royal intendant at the Palazzo Reale at Naples (p. 36) 
 is required, but it may if necessary be obtained through one of the hotel- 
 keepers at Caserta. Fee 1 fr. ; for the chapel 25 c. 
 
 Caserta , a clean and well-built town with 19,000 inhab. (‘com- 
 mune’ 30,000) and a large garrison, may be called the Versailles 
 of Naples. It possesses several palaces and barracks, and is the 
 residence of the prefect of the province of Caserta. It was founded 
 in the 8th cent, by the Lombards on the slope of the hill, but the 
 modern town stands on lower ground. 
 
 The * Royal Palace of Caserta, opposite the station, was erected 
 in 1752, by Vanvitelli , by order of King Charles III., in the richest 
 Italian palatial style. It forms a rectangle. The S. side is 830 ft. 
 long and 134 ft. high, with thirty-seven windows in each story. 
 The courts of the palace are traversed by a colonnade, from the 
 
1 0 Route 1 . 
 
 MADDALONI. 
 
 centre of which ascends the handsome marble staircase, with 116 
 steps. The statue of Vanvitelli, by Buccini, was erected in 1879. 
 The palace is at present unoccupied. 
 
 The Chapel, lavishly decorated with marble, imitated lapis lazuli, 
 and gold, contains a ‘Presentation in the Temple 1 by Mengs , five paintings 
 by Conca , and an altar-piece by Bonito. — The Theatre is adorned with 
 twelve Corinthian columns of African marble from the temple of Sera- 
 pis at Pozzuoli, and contains forty ^boxes, besides that appropriated to 
 the royal family. 
 
 The ^Garden , with its lofty pruned hedges, contains beautiful 
 fountains and cascades, adorned with statues. The grand terrace 
 above the cascade (2 M. from the palace) affords beautiful points 
 of view. The Botanical Garden is interesting as proving that the 
 trees of the colder north can be grown here with success. The Ca- 
 sino Reale di S. Leuci , in the park, about 2 M. to the N., com- 
 mands another fine prospect. 
 
 Caserta is the junction of the Naples and Foggia railway 
 (R. 14), which runs above our line as far as the next station — 
 
 146 M. Maddaloni ; the town (19,600 inhab.), situated to the 
 left, with an extensive deserted palace of the Caraffa family, is 
 commanded by a ruined castle. On the Foggia line, 2^2 M. 
 distant, are situated the Ponti della Valle , a celebrated aqueduct 
 constructed by Vanvitelli to supply the gardens of Caserta with 
 water, and usually visited from Maddaloni. 
 
 150 M. Cancello , whence a branch-line diverges to Avellino 
 (R. 12). 
 
 From Cancello to Benevento, 25 M. Since the opening of the rail- 
 way (R. 14) the high road has been used for the local traffic only. It leads 
 by S. Felice and Arienzo , and then passes through a narrow defile, con- 
 sidered by many to be identical with the Furculce Caudince which proved 
 so disastrous to the fortunes of Rome, whence it ascends to the village of 
 Arpaia (the ancient Caudium according to some). It next passes the 
 small town of Montesarchio , with its castle, once the residence of the 
 d'Avalos family, and recently used as a state prison, in which, among others, 
 the well-known Poerio (d. 1867) was confined. 
 
 To the left we observe Monte Somma , which conceals the cone 
 of Vesuvius (p. 117). 154!/2 M. Acerra (14,500 inhab.) was the 
 ancient Acerrae , to which the Roman citizenship was accorded as 
 early as B. C. 332. The train crosses the trenches of the Regi 
 Lagni , which drain the marshes of Pantano dell’ Acerra, the 
 ancient Clanius, now VAgno, and form the boundary between 
 the provinces of Caserta and Naples. 162 M. Casalnuovo. Vesu- 
 vius becomes visible on the left. 
 
 163 M. Naples. Arrival, see p. 20. 
 
 2. From Rome to Naples 
 
 by the Pontine Marshes, Terracina, Gaeta, and Capua. 
 
 This road, until recently the principal route between Central and 
 Southern Italy, is the most ancient in the peninsula. During the Samnite 
 war, B. C. 312, the Via Appia from Rome to Capua (p. 1) was constructed 
 by the censor Appius Claudius, and with it the present road is nearly iden- 
 
VIA APPIA. 
 
 2. Route. 11 
 
 tical. It skirts the W. side of the Alban mountains , passes Albano, 
 Genzano, and Velletri, intersects the plain on the coast, of which the 
 Pontine Marshes form a portion, and reaches Terracina, formerly the 
 frontier-town of the States of the Church. It then turns inland and traverses 
 the mountain chain of Itri , which bounds the Bay of Gaeta on the N. W. 
 It reaches the bay near Formia, skirts it for a short distance, and then 
 again proceeds towards the interior by S. Agata , uniting at the Spa- 
 ranisi station (p. 7) with the preceding route, 4 M. above Capua. 
 
 Since the opening of the railway this road has been used for the 
 local traffic only, but it is still strongly recommended to the notice of the 
 traveller, as it traverses a singularly attractive district, and is one of the 
 most beautiful routes in Italy. The drive by carriage from Rome to Naples 
 is also preferable to the railway journey in this respect, that the transition 
 from the one city to the other is thus rendered less abrupt. This region 
 was a favourite haunt of brigands in 1860-70, but since the annexation 
 of the States of the Church to Italy their bands have been dispersed. The 
 journey may also be accomplished by diligence as far as Velletri (office 
 near the Teatro Argentina) , but this requires an additional day, which 
 might probably be better employed. The malaria which prevails in the 
 marshy districts in summer is considered especially noxious during sleep. 
 The diligence conductors regard tobacco smoke as the most effectual anti- 
 dote to the poison of the atmosphere. No risk need be apprehended 
 during the colder seasons. There are fairly good hotels at Terracina and 
 Formia. 
 
 The whole journey occupies three days : — 1st Day. Railway to Vel- 
 letri in 3 /4-l 1 /t2 hr. (fares 4 fr. 75, 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 40 c. ; express, 6 fr. 40, 
 4 fr. 30 c.) ; thence diligence (starting at 9 a.m. ; fare 7 fr.) in 7 hrs. to 
 Terracina (visit Theodoric’s palace). — 2nd Day. Diligence (generally about 
 11.30 a.m. ; 572 fr.) to Formia in 672 hrs. The excursion to Gaeta is more 
 easily made on the same day if a carriage be hired from Terracina to 
 Formio. — 3rd Day. Diligence (starting at 6 p.m. ; 3 3 /4 fr.) to Sparanisi 
 in 372 hrs., and railway thence to Naples in 172-2 74 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 45, 
 
 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 10 c. *, express, 6 fr. 80, 4 fr. 75 c.). The diligence from Spa- 
 ranisi starts very early in the morning. 
 
 To Velletri , 25^2 M., see p. 1. The high road here descends to 
 the plain to the right. About l*/ 2 M. before reaching Cisterna the 
 road again unites with the ancient Via Appia. The extensive 
 oak forests here were once a notorious haunt of banditti. On the 
 height to the left we observe the villages of Cori and Norma (see 
 Baedekers Central Italy). 
 
 Farther on, below Norma, stands Sermoneta on an emin- 
 ence, with an ancient castle of the Gaetani family, who thence 
 derive their ducal title. Towards the sea, to the right, rises the 
 isolated Monte Circello (p. 13). Cisterna (La Posta ), 7*/ 2 M. 
 from Velletri, a small town with a castle of the Gaetani, 
 situated on the last hill before the Pontine marshes are reached, 
 was called Cisterna Neronis in the middle ages, and is believed 
 to occupy the site of the ancient Tres Tabernae. 
 
 17 M. (from Velletri) Torre tre Ponti , a solitary post-house, 
 where the diligence halts for an hour and changes horses, is a 
 miserable tavern. Terracina is 22 Y 2 M. distant. (Sermoneta, 
 
 5 M. distant from Torre tre Ponti, may be visited thence; see 
 above.) About */ 2 M. farther the road crosses the Ninfa by an 
 ancient bridge, restored, as the inscription records, by Trajan. 
 
 We now reach the Pontine Marshes (Paludi Pontine ), which 
 
12 Route 2. 
 
 PONTINE MARSHES. 
 
 From Rome 
 
 vary in breadth between the mountains and the sea from 6 to 
 11 M., and from Nettuno to Terracina are 31 M. in length. A 
 very small part of them only is cultivated. They, however, afford 
 extensive pastures , the most marshy parts being the favourite 
 resort of the cattle. Towards the sea the district is clothed 
 with forest ( macchia ). The malaria in summer is a dreadful 
 scourge. 
 
 According to Pliny (Hist. Nat. iii. 5) , these marshes were 
 anciently a fertile and well-cultivated plain, occupied by twenty- 
 four villages, but towards the close of the republic gradually fell 
 into their present condition owing to the decline of agriculture. 
 A want of fall in the surface of the soil is the cause of the evil. 
 The streams and canals are totally inadequate to carry off the 
 excess of water which descends from the mountains during the 
 rainy season, and its escape is further impeded by the luxuriant 
 vegetation of the aquatic plants. Attempts to drain the marshes 
 have been successively made by the censor Appius Claudius in 
 B. C. 312 (so says tradition), by the consul Cornelius Cethegus 
 130 years later, by Caesar, Augustus, Nerva, Trajan, and finally 
 by Theodoric, King of the Goths, all of which were of temporary 
 benefit only. Similar operations were undertaken by the popes 
 Boniface VIII. , Martin V. , Sixtus V. , and Pius VI. To the 
 last is due the present admirably constructed road across the 
 marshes, the cost of which amounted to 1,622,000 scudi (350,100 1. 
 sterling). 
 
 For some distance the road follows the track of the ancient Via 
 Appia in a straight direction, skirting the Canal delle Botte , 
 which was constructed before the time of Augustus, and on which 
 Horace performed part of his journey to Brundisium (Sat. i. 5). 
 
 About 4 M. from Torre tre Ponti is Foro Appio , the 
 ancient Forum Appii , described by Horace as ‘differtum nautis 
 cauponibus atque malignis’. Here, and at Tres Tabernae, the 
 Apostle Paul met his friends from Rome (Acts, xxviii). 
 
 The road pursues a perfectly straight direction, shaded by a 
 double or quadruple avenue of stately elms. But for the moun^ 
 tains to the left, where Sezza has for some time been visible, the 
 traveller might imagine himself transported to a scene in Holland. 
 
 A conveyance in correspondence with the diligence from Velletri runs 
 from Foro Appio to Sezza, the ancient Yolscian Setia , which yielded a 
 favourite wine. It is situated above the marshes on a hill which the old 
 road to Naples skirted. The fragments of the old walls and of a so-called 
 Temple of Saturn are still to be seen. — Instead of ascending the hill of 
 Sezza, we may follow the road skirting its base to — 
 
 Piperno (6 M.), the ancient Privernum of the Volsci, which long with- 
 stood the attacks of the Romans, and afterwards a Roman colony, the traces 
 of which are seen M. to the N. in the plain, on the way to Frosinone. 
 This plain is enclosed by lofty mountains, studded with ruined castles 
 and villages : Rocca Gorga , Maenza , Rocca Secca, Prossedi , etc. About 3 M. 
 farther, in the valley of the Amctseno , is situated the Cistercian monastery 
 of Fossa Nuova, where Thomas Aquinas died in 1274 while on his way to 
 
to Naples. 
 
 TERRACINA 
 
 2. Route . 13 
 
 the Council of Lyons. Sonnino , 4 J /2 M. distant, and San Lorenzo , in the 
 valley of the Amaseno , about 9 M. distant, are both famous for the 
 picturesqueness of the costume of the women , and formerly notorious 
 for the audacity of the brigands. 
 
 The road pursues a straight direction on a raised embank- 
 ment, and leads to Bocca di Flume and Mesa. At the entrance 
 of the post-house at Mesa are two ancient mile-stones of Trajan. 
 In the vicinity are the ruins of a tomb on a square basement 
 of massive blocks of limestone, obtained from the neighbouring 
 Volscian mountains. 
 
 Ponte Maggiore is the next post-station. Beyond it the road 
 crosses the Amaseno , into which the Ufente empties itself a little 
 higher up. 
 
 We soon reach the locality which Horace mentions as the site 
 of the grove and fountain of Feronia (Sat. i. 5, 23), but no 
 traces of either are now visible. (They were perhaps near S. Mar- 
 tino.) The new road now quits the Via Appia and approaches 
 the mountains to the left, where palms and pomegranates, inter- 
 spersed with orange groves and aloes, apprise the traveller of 
 his entrance into Southern Italy. 
 
 To the right, towards the sea, thePromontorioCirceo, or Cir cello (1771 ft.), 
 which was visible even before Velletri was reached, now becomes more con- 
 spicuous. This was the Circeii of the ancients, the traditional site of the palace 
 and grove of the enchantress Circe, daughter of the sun, described by Homer. 
 It is an isolated limestone rock, and may be reached in 3 hrs. from Terracina 
 by a good path along the shore. On the summit, near S. Felice towards the S. 
 and Torre di Paola towards the W., some fragments are perceived of the 
 ancient town of Circeii , captured by Coriolanus, and still existing in Cicero’s 
 time. Cicero and Atticus, Tiberius and Domitian frequently resorted to 
 this spot, attracted doubtless by the beauty of the situation and the excel- 
 lence of the oysters. The Grotta della Maga , a stalactite cavern, deserves a 
 visit. In spring and autumn the rocks are frequented by innumerable birds 
 of passage. 
 
 Terracina ( Grand Hotel Royal , at the S. entrance to the town, 
 with a view of the sea at the back ; *Locanda Nazionale , in the 
 Piazza, less expensive), situated conspicuously on a rocky emin- 
 ence (Hor. Sat. i. 5, 26), the Anxur of the ancient Volsci, 
 and the Tarracina of the Romans, was formerly on the confines 
 of the papal dominions , and still constitutes the natural frontier 
 town between Central and Southern Italy. Pop. 7300. It is an an- 
 cient episcopal residence, and is one of the most picturesque spots 
 in Italy. The high road intersects the extensive but thinly peopled 
 quarter of the town which was founded by Pius VI. , while the 
 old town is built on the slope of the hill. Above the latter 
 extend the ruins of the ancient city, crowned by the remains of 
 the palace of Theodoric the Ostrogoth. 
 
 The *Cattedrale S. Pietro is believed to occupy the site of 
 a temple of Jupiter Anxurus. The vestibule rests on ten ancient 
 columns, with recumbent lions at their bases. On the right is 
 a large antique sarcophagus, which, according to the inscription, 
 was used in torturing the early Christians. The pavement of 
 
14 Route 2. 
 
 TERRACINA. 
 
 From Rome 
 
 the square in which the cathedral stands dates from the Roman 
 period. 
 
 Interior. The beautiful fluted columns of the Canopy in the in- 
 terior belonged to the ancient temple. The Pulpit , with its ancient 
 mosaics, rests on columns with lions at their bases. — The Clock Tower 
 (ascended by 91 steps) commands an extensive prospect. 
 
 The summit of the promontory may he attained directly from 
 the new town in 3 / 4 hr . , hut more conveniently from the old 
 town, the route being partly by an ancient road passing remains 
 of tombs and ancient walls, and then leading to the right through 
 olive plantations. The whole excursion requires about 3 hrs.; 
 guide unnecessary. The * Palace of Theodoric , King of the Ostro- 
 goths, erected about 500 A.D. and afterwards converted into a 
 castle, occupies the summit. A corridor of twelve arches opens 
 towards the sea on the S. side. The purposes of the different 
 parts of the structure cannot now be ascertained. 
 
 *View admirable. Towards the W. the prospect embraces the 
 plain as far as the Alban Mts., then the Monte Circello ; towards 
 the S. are the Pontine or Ponza Islands, the N.W. group of which 
 comprises Ponza (Pontiae , once a Roman colony), Palmarola (Pal- 
 maria), and Zannone , all of volcanic origin, and the S. group 
 Ventotene and S. Stefano ; between the groups lies the small island 
 of La Botte . The islands are still used, as in ancient times, as a 
 place of detention for convicts. Yentotene is the Pandateria of 
 melancholy celebrity, to which Augustus banished his abandoned 
 daughter Julia, and Tiberius relegated Agrippina, the daughter of 
 Julia, and where Nero is said to have caused his divorced wife 
 Octavia to be put to death. Towards the E. the plain of Fondi is 
 visible; the village on the sea is Sperlonga (p. 15); farther off is 
 the promontory of Gaeta with the Torre d’Orlando (p. 17), and 
 finally the island of Ischia. 
 
 The Harbour of Terracina, still recognisable by the break- 
 water, was of great importance during the Roman period, but 
 is now entirely filled with sand. A new Molo affords indif- 
 ferent shelter to coasting vessels. The galley-slaves at the bagno 
 here are partly employed in the harbour works, and partly in 
 the quarries. — At the entrance to the town rises a picturesque 
 mass of rock on the roadside, on which a hermit formerly dwelt. 
 
 Beyond Terracina the road follows the direction of the Via 
 Appia, and is flanked by remains of ancient tombs. The moun- 
 tains which we skirt approach so near the sea as occasionally 
 to leave barely space for the road. This pass was the ancient 
 Lautulae. Here, in B. C. 315, the Romans fought a battle with 
 the Samnites, and in the 2nd Punic War Fabius Maximus kept 
 Hannibal in check here. On a hill about V 2 M. to the left is 
 situated the monastery of Retiro , on the site of the villa in 
 which the emperor Galba was born. Then to the right is the 
 
to Naples. 
 
 FONDI. 
 
 2. Route. 15 
 
 Lake of Fondi , the Lacus Fundanus or Amyclanus of the an- 
 cients , named after the town of Amyclae which is said to have 
 been founded here by fugitive Laconians. The village towards 
 the E. on the slope facing the sea is Sperlonga (see below). 
 
 The papal frontier was formerly at Torre delV Epitafia. We 
 next reach the gateway of the tower de J Confini , or La Portella , 
 4 M. from Terracina. On a height to the left is the village of 
 Monticelli ,• by the road-side are fragments of tombs. We now 
 enter the extremely fertile Terra di Lavoro (p. 7). The next 
 place (11 M. from Terracina) is Fondi (5000 inhab.), the ancient 
 Fundi , where Horace derides the pride of a civic official ‘with 
 broad purple border and censer’ (Hor. Sat. i. 5, 34). Change 
 of horses , and halt of !/ 4 hr. (poor inn). The Chateau , part 
 of which adjoins the inn, is miserably dilapidated. Some of the 
 window-frames and decorations in the most tasteful Renaissance 
 style testify to its ancient splendour. In the 16th cent, it belong- 
 ed to the Colonnas , and in 1534 it was occupied by the beau- 
 tiful Countess Giulia Gonzaga. One night the countess narrowly 
 escaped being captured by the daring pirate Haireddin Barbarossa, 
 who purposed conveying her to the Sultan Soliman II. Exasperated 
 by his failure , he wreaked his revenge on the town , as an in- 
 scription in the church records. The town was again destroyed 
 by the Turks in 1594. In the vicinity is the church of S. Maria 
 in the Gothic style , disfigured in the interior by whitewash. 
 It contains an ancient pulpit adorned with mosaic, and on the 
 right a Madonna by Silvestro de’ Buoni. A chapel is shown in 
 the Dominican monastery in which Thomas Aquinas once taught. 
 Considerable remains of the ancient town-walls are preserved. 
 The principal street coincides with the ancient Yia Appia. In 
 other respects the town is a sombre looking place, and like Itri 
 (see below) was for centuries a haunt of brigands. 
 
 Beyond Fondi the road traverses the plain for 3 M., after 
 which it ascends Monte S. Andrea through mountain ravines, 
 where additional horses are necessary. It then descends to the 
 poor town of Itri, with a ruined castle, once notorious for the 
 robberies committed there. It was here that the robber-chief 
 Marco Sciarra promised a safe conduct and protection to the poet 
 Tasso ; and Fra Diavolo (whose real name was Michele Pezza) was 
 also a native of Itri. He was at last captured by the French 
 near Salerno and executed. Anecdotes are still related of this 
 daring brigand, and Washington Irving’s sketch ‘The Inn of 
 Terracina’, the foundation of Auber’s opera, has greatly contri- 
 buted to maintain their interest. 
 
 A mountainous path leads from Itri, to the right, in 2 l /t hrs. to the 
 fishing village of Sperlonga , situated on a sandy promontory, and deriving 
 its name from the grottoes (speluncae) in the neighbouring rocks. In one 
 of these, as Tacitus informs us (Ann. iv. 59), Sejanus saved the life of Ti- 
 berius, which was imperilled by a falling rock. On the way to the grotto 
 
16 Route 2. 
 
 FORMIA. 
 
 From Rome 
 
 we observe Roman ruins, and the grotto itself contains benches and stucco 
 ornaments. The excursion may best be made by boat from Gaeta , from 
 which Sperlonga is about 9>/2 M. distant. 
 
 From Itri the road descends for some distance on galleries, 
 and finally between woods and vineyards towards the coast, re- 
 vealing an exquisite view of the bay of Gaeta, with its glittering 
 villas and other edifices ; in the distance are Ischia and Procida ; 
 still further off rise the Monte S. Angelo (p. 152) and Vesuvius. 
 
 Farther on, we perceive to the right, in the middle of a 
 vineyard, on a square base, a massive round tower, believed 
 to be Cicero's Tomb. It was in this neighbourhood, not far 
 irom his Formianum, that the proscribed orator, who sought 
 to elude the pursuit of the triumvirs Octavian, Antony, and 
 Lepidus, was murdered by the tribunes Herennius and Popilius 
 Laenas , 7th Dec., B.O. 43, in the 64th year of his age. On a 
 height above the road may be traced the foundations of a temple 
 of Apollo, said to have been founded by Cicero. Numerous re- 
 lics of ancient buildings are still extant on the whole bay, which, 
 like the bay of Naples, was a favourite resort of the Roman nobles, 
 and was covered with the most sumptuous villas. Tradition lias 
 assigned several of these to Cicero, but without the slightest 
 historical foundation. The road now descends to Formia. 
 
 Formia (*H6tel de V Europe, on the coast, R. I 1 / 2 fr., pre- 
 ferable to the inns at Gaeta), the ancient Formiae , a town with 
 9600 inhab., was called Mola di Gaeta under the former regime. 
 The beauty of its situation constitutes its sole attraction. The 
 mountain-range on the N. side of the bay rises abruptly from the 
 sea, the lower slopes being clothed with gardens of lemons, oranges, 
 and pomegranates, and with vineyards and olive-plantations. 
 
 One of the most delightful points is the so-called Villa of 
 Cicero , or Villa Caposele , above the town , formerly a favourite 
 residence of the kings of Naples. It now belongs to Sign. Gaetano 
 Rubino (permission to visit it obtained by leaving a card at his palazzo 
 opposite the prefecture ; boy to act as guide Y 2 At the entrance 
 are ancient inscriptions and statues. The Lower Part of the garden 
 contains considerable remains of an ancient villa, supposed to have 
 belonged to Cicero. Among the vaulted halls is one with eight 
 columns and a semicircular apse, now converted into offices. Dur- 
 ing the siege. of Gaeta, General Cialdini established his head- 
 quarters here. The Upper Terrace commands an uninterrupted 
 survey of the charming bay, Gaeta, Ischia, the promontories of the 
 Bay of Naples, and the mountain range to the S. of the Liris, which 
 separates the latter from the region of the Volturno. 
 
 Excursion to Gaeta, 4-5 hrs. there and back. 
 
 Formia carries on a brisk traffic with Gaeta, 4 3 A M. distant. Seat 
 in public conveyance fr. ; one-horse carr. there and back, according 
 to tariff, 2 fr., or with a stay of some hours 3 fr., a drive of z j\ hr. \ by 
 boat somewhat longer, 3-4 fr. 
 
to Naples. 
 
 GAETA. 
 
 2. Route. 1 7 
 
 The road ascends through Formia, and beyond it descends 
 to the coast, which it then skirts. Numerous remains of villas, 
 which the Romans were in the habit of building out into the sea 
 as far as possible, are passed. Among them a spot is pointed 
 out as the scene of the assassination of Cicero (see above). Country 
 attractive. Outside the town extends a long row of houses, called 
 the Borgo. The road next passes the fortifications, which still 
 bear traces of the bombardment of 1860. 
 
 Gaeta (Albergo Villa Gaeta , well spoken of; Italia; Caffe 
 Nazionale ), the ancient Portus Caieta , with 18,700 inhab., is an 
 important fortress, but insignificant as a commercial town. The 
 promontory of Gaeta resembles the cape of Misenum in formation, 
 presenting from a distance the appearance of a gigantic tumulus. 
 Tradition has pointed it out as the tomb of Caieta, the nurse of 
 .Eneas, and Munatius Plancus accordingly erected a conspicuous 
 and imposing monument on its summit. From this eminence 
 projects a lower rock which bears the citadel and the town. 
 
 The strength of the place was first put to the test during the bar- 
 barian immigrations. Gaeta successfully resisted the attacks of the Teutonic 
 invaders, and with Amalfi and Naples constituted one of the last strong- 
 holds of ancient culture. It afterwards became a free city, presided over 
 by a doge, and carried on a considerable trade with the Levant. It bade 
 defiance to the assaults of the Lombards and Saracens, and preserved its 
 freedom down to the 12th cent., when with the rest of Southern Italy it 
 was compelled to succumb to the Normans. The fortress was extended and 
 strengthened at various periods by the Arragonese, by Charles V., and 
 especially by the last Bourbon monarchs. In 1501 it surrendered to the 
 French, in 1504 to the Spaniards under Gonsalvo da Cordova, in 1734 t6 
 the Spaniards again, and in 1798 to the French. In 1806 it was gallantly 
 defended by the Prince of Hessen-Philippsthal, who, aided by the Eng- 
 lish fleet, held out for nearly six months against a powerful French army 
 under Massena. In Nov. 1860, Francis II. of Naples, the last of the Bour- 
 bon kings, sought refuge here, and his queen Mary, Duchess of Bavaria, 
 took a prominent part in the defence of the fortress, but the town was at 
 length compelled to capitulate by the Italian fleet on 23rd Feb. 1861. The 
 king was conveyed to Rome by a French man-of-war. Pope Pius IX. when 
 banished in Nov. 1848, also sought an asylum here, and remained at Gaeta 
 until his return to Rome in April, 1850. 
 
 The Cattedrale di S. Erasmo has a remarkable campanile ; at 
 the entrance are four ancient columns and relics of old sculptures. 
 
 Interior modernised. At the back of the high altar (covered) is the 
 banner presented by Pope Pius V. to Don John of Austria, the hero of 
 Lepanto, representing the Saviour with SS. Peter and Paul. 
 
 Opposite the principal portal of the church is a sculptured Go- 
 thic column resting on four lions. 
 
 Among the antiquities may be mentioned the remains of an 
 amphitheatre and of a theatre, and also a column bearing the names 
 of the twelve winds in Greek and Latin. 
 
 The chief object of interest, however, is the so-called *Torre 
 d’ Orlando, or tomb of Munatius Plancus, the contemporary of 
 Augustus, and founder of Lyons (B. C. 43), situated on the 
 summit of the promontory. We ascend from the Piazza to 
 the Gothic church of S. Francesco , begun by Ferdinand II. in 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 2 
 
18 Route 2. 
 
 S. AGATA. 
 
 1849, seriously damaged in 1860, and since completed; then 
 turn to the left through an open garden gate , and reach the 
 Torre by a good winding road in 25 min. The tomb consists 
 of a huge circular structure of travertine blocks, resembling 
 that of Caecilia Metella at Rome. Round the top runs a frieze 
 with warlike emblems. On the N. side is the inscription : L. 
 
 Munatius L. f. L. n. L. pron. Plancus cos. cens. imp. iter. 
 VII vir epulon. triump. ex Raetis , aedem Saturni fecit de mani - 
 bis , agros divisit in Italia Beneventi , in Gallia colonias deduxit 
 Lugudunum et Rauricam. A more magnificent site for such a 
 monument cannot well be conceived. The **Yiew towards the 
 N.W. embraces the coast as far as Mte. Circeo, to the W. the sea 
 with the Ponza Islands, to the E. and S. the bay of Gaeta, Ischia, 
 Procida, Capri, and the mountains of Misenum. 
 
 Leaving Formia, the road now turns into the plain of the 
 Garigliano , the Liris of the ancients, which falls into the Bay 
 of Gaeta. To the left, before reaching the bridge, we observe 
 a long series of arches of the ancient aqueduct; then nearer 
 the road, by the post-house, remains of the theatre and amphi- 
 theatre of the venerable city of Minturnae , on the ruins of 
 which, on the hill to the left, has sprung up the small town 
 of Traetto. In the plain towards the Liris are situated the marshes 
 where Marius once sought to elude the pursuit of the hirelings 
 of Sulla. On the right bank of the Garigliano, 27th Dec. 1503, 
 Don Gonsalvo da Cordova fought the decisive battle with the 
 French which placed Naples in his power. Pietro de’ Medici, who, 
 having been banished from Florence, had followed the French, 
 endeavoured to escape to Gaeta in a boat with four field-pieces. 
 The boat, however, sank, and all its crew were drowned. Pietro 
 was buried at Monte Casino (p. 5). 
 
 The suspension-bridge over the Garigliano (7i/ 2 M. from 
 Formia), constructed in 1832, is the oldest in Italy. Before 
 it is reached the present road quits the Yia Appia, which is 
 distinctly traceable on the right bank as far as Mondragone , near 
 the Sinuessa of Horace (destroyed by the Saracens in the 10th 
 cent.), where to his great joy he was met on his journey (Sat. 
 i. 5, 39) by his friends Plotius, Yarius, and Yirgil. Horace then 
 crossed the Savo (Savone) by the Pons Campanus and proceeded 
 to Capua. The present road, however, turns to the left towards 
 the heights of Sant ’ Agata (change of horses, halt of */ 4 hr.), 
 a busy post-station, where it is crossed by a road leading from 
 Sessa to Mondragone. The volcanic peaks of the Campagna Felice, 
 and among them the lofty Rocca Monfina , now become visible. 
 
 The Rocca Monfina , 4 ! /2 M. from Sant 1 Agata, is easily visited thence. 
 On the way thither, M. from Sant 1 Agata, on a volcanic eminence, lies 
 Sessa, the ancient Suessa Aurunca , with interesting ruins of a bridge, 
 amphitheatre, etc. Other relics are preserved in the ancient cathedral 
 
VOYAGE TO NAPLES. 
 
 3. Route. 19 
 
 and the churches of S. Benedetto and S. Giovanni. In the principal street 
 are memorial stones with inscriptions in honour of Charles V., above 
 which is an old crucifix with a mosaic cross. From the hills of Sessa to 
 Mondragone, towards the S., extends Monte Massico , whose wines Horace 
 and Virgil have immortalised. In the vicinity, towards the Volturnus, 
 was the Ager Falernus , where excellent wine is still produced. 
 
 The road from Sant’ Agata to Sparanisi passes the village of 
 Cascano , noted for the beauty of its women. The same repu- 
 tation might indeed be fairly extended to the whole district around 
 the Bay of Gaeta. About 4 M. from Cassano a road to the left 
 leads to Teano (see p. 6). The road then crosses the Savone , not 
 far from the picturesque castle of Francolisi , and (14/2 M.) reaches 
 the railway-station of Sparanisi (seep. 7), whence Naples is reached 
 by railway via Capua in about 2 hrs. 
 
 3. From Leghorn to Naples (by sea). 
 
 Steamboats. Two vessels of the Society Florio (Wed. and Sat.) and 
 one of the Societa Rubattino (Tues.) leave Leghorn for Naples every week 
 (embarcation 1 fr.; fare 49 fr., 31 fr.). A French steamer ( Compagnie 
 Fraissinet) also sails once weekly, calling at Civita Vecchia. The direct 
 voyage occupies 26-31 hrs., that by Civita Vecchia about 10 hrs. more. 
 
 The great advantage of approaching Naples by sea is that the city is 
 suddenly revealed to the traveller in the perfection of its majesty and 
 beauty. The view on entering the bay on a fine day is one of almost 
 unparalleled loveliness. Most of the coasting steamers load and unload 
 in the harbours during the day, and proceed on their way at night; the 
 traveller should therefore take care to avoid those that enter the Bay of 
 Naples in the dark. 
 
 On emerging from the harbour of Leghorn the steamer affords 
 a beautiful retrospect of the town. Towards the W. rises the 
 island of Gorgona. The vessel steers towards the S. and soon 
 comes in sight of the island of Capraja , while the dark outlines of 
 Corsica are visible in the distance. The Italian coast continues 
 visible on the E., and to the N.E. rise the Apennines. The 
 steamer next proceeds between the island of Elba, with the 
 Porto Longone and the islet of Palmajola , and the Punta di Piom - 
 bino , a beautiful passage , affording a fine survey of the rocky 
 islands as well as of the coast , with its numerous promontories 
 crowned with lighthouses. Farther on is the island of Pianosa; 
 more towards the S., Giglio , and the picturesque Monte Argentario 
 (1770 ft.) rising abruptly from the sea. Then the islet of Gian - 
 nutri. 
 
 The coast becomes flat, and Civith Vecchia , picturesquely 
 situated at the foot of a hill, at length comes in sight. 
 
 To the S. of Civita Vecchia the coast is somewhat monoto- 
 nous, and spacious plains, rarely relieved by hills, extend as far as 
 the horizon. In clear weather the dome of St. Peter’s at Rome 
 is said to be visible. In the bay to the S. of Capo Linaro lies 
 S. Sever a, and beyond it Palo with its palace. At the mouth 
 of the Tiber we observe Fiumicino and Ostia ; farther on is Porto 
 
 2 * 
 
20 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Arrival. 
 
 d’Anzio; in the background rise the Alban and Volscian moun- 
 tains. The dreary aspect of the Pontine marshes is relieved by the 
 conspicuous Monte Circello or Circeo. To the S.W. are the Ponza 
 islands, Ponza and Zannone. 
 
 The steamer now stands out to sea, leaving the coast with 
 the bays of Terracina and Gaeta to the E. The first land which 
 again becomes visible is the island of Ischia to the S., to the left 
 of which we afterwards see the island of Procida . The vessel steers 
 into the Strait of Procida , which lies between the island and the 
 Capo Miseno. As soon as we have rounded the latter, the Bay of 
 Naples in all its beauty bursts on our view, but the city remains 
 concealed for some time longer. 
 
 “The strait which lies between the low island of Procida on the 
 right and the Capo Miseno on the left, is the channel by which 
 the bay of Naples is entered in this direction, — the portal to 
 what has been called a ‘fragment of heaven to earth vouchsafed’. 
 Capo Miseno is a rocky eminence, connected with the mainland 
 by a long narrow isthmus ; a grey, deserted tower of weird aspect 
 crowns the summit. The white houses of Procida, with their 
 flat roofs glittering in the sunshine, remind one of a troop of 
 pilgrims toiling up the ascent.” 
 
 The eminent author of the work from which the above extract 
 is taken strongly recommends travellers to approach Naples by 
 sea. The impression , as he justly observes, which is produced 
 by a rapid transition by land from majestic Rome to squalid Naples 
 is inevitably disappointing, whilst the traveller arriving from the 
 sea is at once introduced to all the fascinating charms of the beau- 
 tifu bay. 
 
 Naples, see below. 
 
 4. Naples. 
 
 Arrival, (a) By Railway. The station ( Stcizione Centrale) is situated 
 at the E. end of the town (PI. G, 3). The arrangements are far from satis- 
 factory , and travellers are generally kept waiting a long time for their 
 luggage. The formalities of the municipal douane are soon terminated, 
 the declaration of the traveller that his luggage contains no comestibles 
 liable to duty being generally accepted. Hotel Omnibuses P /2 fr. ; public 
 omnibus 20 c., each box 20 c. (not recommended to persons arriving for 
 the first time). Cabs: with two horses (nearest the entrance) 1 fr. 40c., 
 each trunk 20 c. ; with one horse (outside the railings, farther distant; 
 seats for two persons only) 70 c., each trunk 20 c. ; no charge is made 
 for smaller articles of luggage. The Facchini who take the luggage to the 
 cab are paid, according to tariff : 10 c. for a travelling-bag or a hat-box, 
 20 c. for heavier articles, 40 c. for boxes weighing 200-400 lbs.; but a few 
 soldi more are usually given. The principal hotels all send omnibuses, 
 or at least their commissionnaires, to meet the trains. 
 
 On arriving at the station the traveller should entirely disregard the 
 representations and suggestions with which he is generally pestered. Let 
 him drive at once to the hotel he has selected, and if it should happen 
 to be full he will there ascertain without difficulty where good accommo- 
 dation may be procured. He should also keep a watchful eye on his 
 luggage, decline the services of officious bystanders, and beware of pick- 
 

 
 
 \ T. 
 
 
NAPOLI 
 
 1. Jllago deFoveri . . 
 
 IF.G.2. 
 
 17. Pcdaszo della Fovea tain (FetettxxrafSF. .6 . 
 
 2. Banco Si Pietit,. 
 
 III. 
 
 18. " 
 
 Maddcdonl (Bcuua vxcz.) 
 
 I 
 
 E.4. 
 
 3 . Dorset 
 
 It E.5. 
 
 19. ■ 
 
 Miranda . 
 
 I 
 
 D.6. 
 
 1. Catacombe, bocca-deZle.. . 
 
 ID. 2. 
 
 20. ' 
 
 deUfhnicipio 
 
 IE 
 
 E.5. 
 
 5. CoUeggio dFCinesi, 
 
 . . .IE. 2. 
 
 21 ' 
 
 Beale 
 
 IE 
 
 E.6. 
 
 6. Cause rvatorio cBMuoica . 
 
 IE.1. 
 
 22. * 
 
 S. Angelo . . 
 
 I 
 
 F.l. 
 
 7.Dogana . . 
 
 IE F.5. 
 
 22.Posta 
 
 
 IE 
 
 E.4. 
 
 8. Fontana, Medina 
 
 IE. 5. 
 
 21 S anitn 
 
 IE 
 
 F.5. 
 
 9. Masco -nazionale 
 
 I E.3. 
 
 Vo.Texxtro S. Carlin o 
 
 IE 
 
 E.5. 
 
 10 . Itrto botanico 
 
 
 26. ' 
 
 S. Carlo 
 
 IE 
 
 E.6. 
 
 11 . Osserratorio astrorv. , . . 
 
 
 27. * 
 
 Fetdce . . . 
 
 IE 
 
 E.5. 
 
 12 . Palazzo Angri . . 
 
 IE E A. 
 
 28. - 
 
 dj&'Fwrentbrd . . 
 
 IE 
 
 E.5. 
 
 13. " Ar-civescorile 
 
 
 29. - 
 
 delFondo ........ 
 
 IE 
 
 E.5. 
 
 11. " di Capodunonte 
 
 . . . .11.1. 
 
 30. „ 
 
 TllLOVO 
 
 IE 
 
 E.5. 
 
 15. ” Cellammare 
 
 JED. 6. 
 
 31 .Tribunals 
 
 
 16. ’ Fondi , . 
 
 IE E/5. 
 
 22.Thwrersita 
 
 
 
 CM e s e: 
 
 33 . S. S Angelo eAnlo 
 
 IE F.4. 
 
 oQJncoronnto 
 
 I 
 
 E.5. 
 
 31 . S.Anna 
 
 . 1EDE.6 . 
 
 57 . S. Lorenzo 
 
 IIF.3.4. 
 
 35. SAiutunziodn 
 
 I G.3. 
 
 58 .S. Lunin 
 
 I 
 
 E.6. 
 
 36. S. Antonio 
 
 ID.4. 
 
 59. S. Maria del Carmine 
 
 I 
 
 G.4. 
 
 37. S. Antonio Ablate 
 
 I G.2. 
 
 60 .S. Maria de'CostanttnopoU 
 
 X 
 
 E.3. 
 
 38. S.S.Apo stopj 
 
 . .113. 
 
 61.S. Maria la mwru 
 
 I 
 
 E.5. 
 
 39. S. Barbara 
 
 IE E.5. 
 
 62. S. Martino 
 
 I 
 
 D.5. 
 
 10 . S.Cccrla all Arena 
 
 I F.3. 
 
 63 .S.Matteo 
 
 I 
 
 E.5. 
 
 11 . S. Caterina 
 
 ID.6. 
 
 61 .S.Michele. 
 
 I 
 
 E.4. 
 
 12 . S. Chiarn 
 
 JEE.4. 
 
 bbAIonte Ccdrario ....... 
 
 It 
 
 D.5. 
 
 13 . Cuncezione, 
 
 ID. 5. 
 
 Monte Olireto 
 
 I 
 
 E.4. 
 
 44. S. Croce al Mercato. 
 
 I G.4 . 
 
 67. S. Paolo Mag giore . 
 
 I 
 
 F.3. 
 
 15. S. Domenico 
 
 . . I £.4 . 
 
 68 Pietra Santa ........ 
 
 
 
 16. Duemo . 
 
 I F.3. 
 
 (S9.S. Pietro a Aiajella 
 
 I 
 
 E.4. 
 
 17. S.FilxppoFeri 
 
 . I F.3 . 
 
 7 0 . .S. Hetro Mar tire . 
 
 I 
 
 F.l. 
 
 18. S'.Francesco dLPaoln 
 
 I E.6. 
 
 IXS.Restxtuta ........ 
 
 X 
 
 F.3 . 
 
 19 . S. Gennaro de'Poreri 
 
 ID. 2. 
 
 72.S. SebvuAiiaio 
 
 I 
 
 E.4 . 
 
 50 . & esw micro 
 
 I E .4 . 
 
 72. S. S. Sererino e Sosrio 
 
 I 
 
 F.4 . 
 
 51. Oesiv e Marine ........ 
 
 I D.3. 
 
 7 AS. Serero, CapeUa di. 
 
 I 
 
 E.4. 
 
 52 . S . Giacomo degli Spagrmoll 
 
 IE. 5. 
 
 7o.Spirito Santo 
 
 
 
 53 . S. Giorgio Mnggiore 
 
 I F.l. 
 
 7(j.S. Teresa, 
 
 I 
 
 E.3. 
 
 51 . S. Giovanni a < Carbonaro 
 
 . I F.3 . 
 
 
 
 
 55 . S. Gt'tgorio 
 
 I E.4. 
 
 
 
 

 I 
 

1. Alba-go deToveri . . IF.G.2. 
 
 2. Banco diPLeta,. ....... .1 F. 4. 
 
 3. Borsa I E.5. 
 
 4. Catacombe bocccudelle .ID. 2. 
 
 5 . CoUeggio dddnesL . ... . I E . 2 . 
 
 6. Conservatorio (WMusica, I E.4. 
 
 7. Bogana . . . I F.5. 
 
 8. Fontana, Medbict . IE. 5. 
 
 9. Museo imzitmxde ......... .1. E. 3 . 
 
 10 . Onto botanico . IF. 2. 
 
 11 . Osscrratorio astron. . I E.2. 
 
 12 . FalazzoJngri I E .4 . 
 
 13. " ArcircscorUr I F. 3 . 
 
 14. " cU Capocttmonte . . IE.l. 
 
 15. ' Cellanunare . . . ID. 6. 
 
 16. • Fondi I E.5. 
 
 CM e 
 
 33. S. S dAngelo e JVilo IT. E.4. 
 
 34 . S.Aima IEDE.6 . 
 
 35. S. Jrmiatziatct . . I G.3. 
 
 36. S. Antonio ID.4. 
 
 37. S. Antonio Abb ate, I 6.2, 
 
 38. S.S.Apostoli I F.3 . 
 
 39. S.Bccrbctva IE. 5. 
 
 40. S.Ctula allAreria ... I F.3. 
 
 41 . 5. Caterina ID. 6. 
 
 Fi.S.Chiara I E .4 . 
 
 43 . Cover zione. I D . 5 . 
 
 44. S. Croce alMercato. ........ I G. 4 . 
 
 45 . S. Domenico IE.4. 
 
 46. Duomv . . . . I E. 3 . 
 
 47 . S.FCUppo fleri . ' ....... .IF. 3. 
 
 48 . 5. Francesco di JPaola. I E . 6 . 
 
 49 . S. Geima.ro de’Poreri ID. 2. 
 
 50 . Gesu nuovo E.4. 
 
 hi. Gesu e Maria . ... .ID. 3. 
 
 52 . S. Giacomo degti Spagnnolv I E .5 . 
 
 53 . 5. Giorgio Mxg glare I F . 4 . 
 
 54 . S. Giovanni a Carbontmo I F . 3 . 
 
 55 . S. Gregorio I F . 4 . 
 
 17. Pulaxzo della „ Foresteria, (PrefettxercbfWF. . 6 . 
 
 18 . " MadcLuloni , (Banco, nccz.) 
 
 I E . 4- . 
 
 19. ' Miranda 
 
 D D . 6 . 
 
 20. • delMunicipio 
 
 I E.5. 
 
 21 ' Beale 
 
 I E.6. 
 
 22. " S.Angelo 
 
 I F.4. 
 
 23. Posta . 
 
 I E .4. 
 
 lASunita. 
 
 I . F.5. 
 
 2 5. Teatf'o S.Carlino ........ 
 
 I E.5. 
 
 26. ' S. Carlo 
 
 I E.6. 
 
 27. » Fender, 
 
 I £.5. 
 
 28. " dr'Fiorentini 
 
 I E.5. 
 
 29. ? delFondo . 
 
 I E.5. 
 
 30. „ nuovo 
 
 I E.5. 
 
 Zl.Tribiaudl 
 
 IE.G.3. 
 
 
 
 s e: 
 
 
 50 Jneoronata 
 
 I E.5. 
 
 b7.S.Io7'en20 
 
 II F.3. 4. 
 
 58.5. Lucia, . 
 
 I E.G 
 
 59. S. Maria, clel Carmine 
 
 I G.4. 
 
 bO.S. Jfarut de ’ CostcaainopoU 
 
 I E.3. 
 
 61. ,9. Maria la miorn 
 
 I E.5 
 
 G2. S. Martino . . 
 
 I D.5. 
 
 §3.S.Matteo ............ 
 
 
 bk.S.ARchele . 
 
 I E .4 
 
 65J Conte Ccdvxaio 
 
 I D.5 
 
 bbJIonte Oliveto 
 
 I E.4 
 
 67. S. PuoloMaggiore 
 
 I F.3 
 
 kZPietra Santa . 
 
 I E.4 
 
 69.5. Pietro aAlccj ella. 
 
 I E.4. 
 
 7 0.5. Pietro Mccriire 
 
 I £.4 
 
 71.5. Restitutes 
 
 I F.3 
 
 72. S. SehoLOticavo . . 
 
 I E.4 
 
 73.5. S. Sererino e Sooio. 
 
 I F.4 
 
 74.5. Severe, Capella di 
 
 I E.4 
 
 7S.Spirito Santo ......... l 
 
 I E.4 
 
 76.5. Teresa ....... . . . . 
 
 I E . 3 
 
NAPOLI 
 
Hotels. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 21 
 
 pockets. No unauthorised person should be allowed to mount the box 
 of the cab, as sometimes one of the porters at the station will endeavour 
 to do so, with a view of extorting money from the landlord of the hotel 
 on the pretence that the traveller’s choice has been the result of his ad- 
 vice. As tricks of the above description are too often practised at Naples, 
 the traveller should be on his guard throughout the whole period of his 
 stay. In case of necessity assistance may be obtained from the nearest 
 policeman ( carabinieri , black and red coat with three-cornered hat ; or the 
 municipal guardia di pubblica sicurezza , dark uniform with military cap). 
 
 (b) By Steamboat. The steamers lay to outside the Porto Grande 
 or in the Porto Militare. As soon as permission to disembark is granted, 
 a small boat (1 fr. for each person with or without luggage ; no attention 
 should be paid to the absurdly extortionate demands usually made) conveys 
 the passengers to the Dogana (PI. 24; F, 5), where luggage is examined. 
 This done, one of the ‘facchini della dogana 1 places the luggage on the 
 fiacre or other conveyance (40 c. for luggage under 200 lbs., or 60 c. up to 
 400 lbs.). 
 
 Hotels. Hotel charges are always high at Naples, particularly in 
 spring, when the influx of visitors is at its height. Families visiting the 
 city at this season had better secure rooms by letter, some time before 
 their arrival. In summer the principal hotels are comparatively empty, 
 and therefore cheaper. The average charges at these houses during the 
 season are about as follows: R. 4-6 fr. and upwards, B. 172 - 2 , D. 4-6, 
 A. 1 fr. ; travellers who do not dine at the table d’hote pay more for 
 their rooms-, pension at some of the hotels 10-12 fr. and upwards. — See 
 also p. xxiii as to climate and sanitary conditions. 
 
 The new hotels in the Cor so Vittorio Emanuele and the adjoining 
 Rione Principe Amedeo (PI. B, C, 6), enjoy the healthiest situation and 
 the finest view, and in spite of their remoteness from the centres of in- 
 terest are steadily growing in public favour. -Grand Hotel Nobile ; 
 Rione Principe Amedeo, a palatial edifice, R. 5 fr., B. H/2 fr.; "Hotel 
 Bristol, -Hotel Tramontano-Beaurivage, D. 5 fr., both in the Corso Yitt. 
 Emanuele. 
 
 Lower Town, near the sea. In the Strada Chiatamone (PI. D, E, 6, 7), 
 at the foot of the Pizzofalcone: " Washington (PI. a), with garden; -Hotel 
 des Etrangers, both opposite the Castel dell’ Ovo, with unimpeded view. 
 Nearer the Chiaja, No. 9, Hotel Metropole, well spoken of. — In the 
 Riviera di Chiaja (PI. D, C, B, 6), near the Villa Nazionale, with a view 
 of the Villa and the sea, but noisy, the rattling of carriages continuing 
 till far on in the night: No. 276, *Gran Bretagna (PI. h); Nos. 255-253, 
 -Hotel du Louvre (PI. k); No. 128, Hotel de la Ville (PI. 1), opposite 
 the end of the Villa , pension 8-10 fr. — In the Strada S. Lucia , to the 
 E. of the Pizzofalcone: Hotel de Rome (PI. m), close to the sea, R. 4, 
 D. 5 fr., well spoken of; *Hotel de Russie (PI. n), with a dependance, 
 
 R. 3-4 fr. and upwards, B. H/ 2 , D. 5fr., patronised by the English. Hotel 
 V ittoria, in the Piazza del Municipio, corner of Strada S. Brigida. 
 
 The following second-class hotels, though not on the coast, are con- 
 veniently situated near it. In the busy Strada Medina (PI. E, 5), not 
 far from the harbour: "Hotel de Geneve (PI. o), entrance by No. 13 
 Strada S. Giuseppe, R. 3, D. 472 , B. 3 /4 fr. ; Hotel Central (PI. p), Strada 
 Medina 72, commercial, similar charges-, Hotel National, Strada Me- 
 dina 5. — In the Strada del Molo , opposite the Castel Nuovo : No. 24, 
 -Hotel Milano (PI. q), unpretending, R. 272 , A. 72 fr. — In the Piazza 
 del Municipio (PI. E, 5): Hotel St. Petersbourg & Pension Cavour, with 
 trattoria (p. 23), pens. 8 fr. *, Hotel du Globe; Albergo d’Italia, nearly 
 opposite the church of S. Giacomo, moderate; Trinacria. — In the Largo 
 
 S. Ferdinando, at the beginning of the Toledo (PI. E, 6): Hotel de l’Eu- 
 rope, entrance by Strada Nardones 113, D. 4, B. 1 fr., well spoken of; 
 Hotel d’Orient, entrance by Strada Nardones 8. — In the Largo della 
 Caritd: Hotel de l’Univers, moderate. — In the Largo Fiorentini: Al- 
 bergo dei Fiori, near the Teatro Fiorentini (PI. 28; E, 5). 
 
 Pensions ( Boarding Houses ). The following may all be recommended 
 for a stay of from 3-4 days upwards; some receive travellers even for a 
 
22 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Hotels. 
 
 single day (comp. p. xix). Strada Chiatamone: No. 23, Hotel & Pension 
 Allemagna, 8-9 fr. per day. — Riviera di Chiaja: No. 287, Hot. <fe Pens. 
 Anglo-Am£ricaine, 9 fr. •, No. 155, Pension Romaine; No. 118, Hot. <fc 
 Pens, della Riviera $ No. 114, Pens. Anglaise, 772-972 fr. ; No. 61, Hot. 
 & Pens, de Naples. — Near the Chiaja: Hot. & Pens. Hassler, Strada 
 S. Teresa a Chiaja, 8-10 fr. ; Pens. Turner-Guidotti, Vico Giov. Bausan 
 16; Montcenis, Strada S. Caterina a Chiaja 67, with dependance at Vio 
 primo degli Alabardieri 11, 1st floor; Orient, Strada Vittoria 44-47, near 
 the piazza of that name, R. 3, B. H/2 fr. — In the Higher Quarters of the 
 Town (comp. p. 21): * Britannique (Mme. Macpherson), Corso Vitt. 
 
 Emanuele 38, near the large hotels; Hot. <fe Pens. Casalta, Rione Prin- 
 cipe Amedeo 14, well spoken of. 
 
 Hotels Garnis. For a stay of some duration the traveller may prefer 
 to take rooms at a private hotel, where he will be more independent than 
 at a hotel or a pension. Charges vary with the season, culminating on 
 unusual occasions, such as an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, which inva- 
 riably attracts crowds of visitors. The rooms are generally large and 
 fitted up for two persons : with one bed 272-4 , with two beds 4-6 fr. per 
 day. The number of days for which the room is engaged should be ex- 
 pressly stated, otherwise the visitor may be required to leave unexpectedly, 
 and a distinct bargain should be made as to charges (e. g. : A. 72 
 30 c. per day). Breakfast may usually be obtained in the house, but better 
 at a cafe. Many of these establishments are well fitted up, but are not so 
 clean or well organised as the principal hotels. Houses of this kind are 
 to be found on the side of the town next the sea, from S. Lucia and Chia- 
 tamone to the Chiaja and the Mergellina , and also in the side-streets 
 near the Chiaja (Giovanni Bausan, Mandella Gaetana, Sta. Teresa a 
 Chiaja, etc.). Thus in S. Lucia Nos. 28, 31, 92 (3rd floor); in the Chiaja, 
 Nos. 171, 260, 263, 267 (1st fl.), 270, etc. The well-known Casa Combi , 
 formerly in S. Lucia, is now at Strada Vittoria 38. There are also several 
 hotels garnis in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and in the Rione Principe 
 Amedeo. 
 
 Private Apartments. Furnished rooms may be easily obtained at 
 Naples. Those in the best quarters (Pizzofalcone , Riviera di Chiaja, 
 Corso Vitt. Emanuele) cost 40-60 fr. a month. 
 
 Restaurants ( Trattorie) very numerous. Italian cuisine. Dinners usually 
 a la carte ; three dishes with fruit and wine 2-372 fr. ; iced water (acqua 
 gelata) 5 c. ; good table-wine 30-40 c. per half-litre; bread, generally in- 
 different, 15 c. ( pane francese of finer flour) ; gratuity 1 soldo for each franc 
 of the bill. Most of the restaurants also give dinners at a fixed price 
 {prezzo fisso ) varying from 272 to 5 fr. — Smoking universal; ladies, how- 
 ever , may visit the better of these establishments. Most of them are 
 situated in the Toledo, on the first-floor, the entrance being generally 
 from a side-street. 
 
 On the W. Side of the Toledo: * Caffe del Pal. Reale , Largo S. Fer- 
 dinando, handsome and expensive, table d’hote at 5, 5.30, or 6 according 
 to the season , 4 fr. ; * Restaurant du Caf6 de V Europe, above the cafe of 
 that name, at the corner of the Strada di Chiaja and the Toledo, dear, 
 much frequented for dejeuner about noon (downstairs cheaper than first 
 floor) ; Restaurant de Naples, Toledo 236 , entrance Vico Carminello a To- 
 ledo 63. 
 
 On the E. Side of the Toledo : *Giardini di Torino, entrance Vico delle 
 Campane 70, moderate. Then, corner of the Strada S. Brigida, Restaurant 
 du Louvre, good cuisine, moderate charges; Villa di Torino, Via Paolo 
 Emilio Imbriani, a side-street between the Toledo and the Piazza del 
 Municipio , entrance by Vico del Fico 3, viands good , one of the oldest 
 trattorie in Naples, formerly the chief resort of strangers ; Restaurant della 
 Borsa, Strada Monte Oliveto 40. Farther up the Toledo, No. 143, Trattoria 
 d'ltalia, inexpensive. 
 
 The following may also be mentioned : '■Birreria Dreher (suitable for 
 breakfast; ‘plat du jour’ 1 fr.), Largo S. Francesco di Paola 8-11 (see p. 
 23); *Bacca\s German Restaurant , Strada Guantai Nuovi 46 (Pl. E, 5); 
 Zepf- Weber (also a cafe; rooms to let), Str. del Molo; Cafi du Commerce , 
 
Cafes. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 23 
 
 near the last, in the Str. Medina, table d’hote at 6 o’clock 3 fr. •, Ca/4 
 Cavour , Str. Medina 64, well spoken of; "Al Vermouth di Torino , Piazza 
 del Mnnicipio, pleasant rooms, H. from 2 fr. ; Rest, des Etr angers , Str. 
 di Chiaja 134; Grand Rest, du Gladiateur , Str. di Chiaja 123; Benvenuto 
 (also a cafe), Via Museo Nazionale 67-69 (continuation of the Toledo); 
 Ca/4 al Museo , corner of the Piazza Cavour, opposite the museum, the 
 last two convenient luncheon-rooms for visitors to the museum ; Birreria 
 di Strasburgo , corner of the Piazza del Municipio and the Str. del Molo; 
 Caf6 di Napoli , in the Villa Nazionale, etc. 
 
 The Maccaroni of Naples is much esteemed, but is generally hard, and 
 should therefore be ordered ‘ben cotti’. It is usually flavoured with pomi 
 d'oro (tomatas), of which the Neapolitans are very fond. Sea-fish and ra- 
 gosta , a kind of lobster, excellent. Shell-fish-soup (zuppa di vongole), a 
 good but indigestible dish. Oysters (ostriche) are least expensive at S. 
 Lucia; the best are from the Lago Fusaro, 60 c. to 1 fr. per dozen. 
 Those who care to witness a characteristic phase of Neapolitan life should 
 visit one of the oyster-stalls , but many will prefer the more refined 
 Restaurant di S. Lucia , situated on the promontory mentioned p. 35. An 
 OstrichaiOy or oyster-seller, generally visits the restaurants in the town 
 about the dinner-hour. 
 
 Good fish may also be procured at the Trattorie di Campagna, by the 
 Posilipo, close to the sea; e. g. * Trattoria dello Scoglio delle Sirene, close 
 to the ruins of the Palazzo di Donn’ Anna (p. 86), 1 M. from the W. end 
 of the town ; about l /\ M. beyond it is the "Antica Trattoria dello Scoglio 
 di Frisio ; both of these are much visited on summer evenings and com- 
 mand superb views, especially by moonlight. Also several smaller trattorie. 
 
 Wine. The wine of the environs is generally excellent, 50-80 c. per 
 litre, such as Gragnano, Ischia, Vino di Procida, del Monte, di Posilipo, and 
 Falerno (sweet); whereas Marsala, Capri, and Lacrima Christi are gene- 
 rally adulterated. Wine-stores: Str. di Chiaja 136, 146; Vico Concezione 
 a Toledo 42, etc. Good Neapolitan, Sicilian, and S. Italian wines may 
 also be obtained at numerous small wine-stores, such as the Cava de ’ 
 Gesuiti , Str. S. Sebastiano 19 (PI. E, 4), which is very primitively fitted up. 
 
 Cafes. Smoking allowed everywhere. A dejeuner a la fourchette is 
 more expeditious at a cafe than at the trattorie. On summer evenings 
 the cafes are crowded with ice-eaters ; in the morning granita only. The 
 average charges are : cup of ‘caffe nero’ 15-20 c. , ‘caffe bianco’ or ‘caffe 
 latte’ 40 , ‘granita di caffe’ , or frozen coffee (refreshing in hot weather, 
 and may be taken at breakfast) 40, chocolate 80, bread or coffee-cake 
 (pasta) 15-20 c. , two fried eggs (due uova al piatto) 40-60 c. ; steak or 
 cutlet 1 fr. to 1 fr. 20 c. The list of ices sometimes contains a great va- 
 riety : granita 40-50 c., geiato 60 c. and upwards ; half-portions of the for- 
 mer may be obtained. Gratuity 5 c. or more. 
 
 The best cafes are at the S. end of the Toledo, near the Piazza del 
 Plebiscito. Here are situated the "Gran Cafe del Palazzo Reale , in the 
 Largo S. Ferdinando, opposite the palace. Adjacent, at the corner of the 
 Str. di Chiaja, * Europa, with restaurant. There are also several smaller 
 cafes in the Toledo: No. 236, Napoli; No. 316, Gran Caf6 d' Italia; * Ben- 
 venuto , Via Museo Nazionale 67-69 (see p.22). — We may next mention: 
 Italia Meridionale , Str. di Chiaja 85; Caf6 del Corso 1 Str. di Chiaja 233; 
 Fratelli Comito , Str. di Chiaja 140-141, corner of the Str. Alabardieri. — 
 Commercio , Piazza Medina, and Zepf-Weber , Str. del Molo, see above. — 
 At the Villa Nazionale: "Cafi di Napoli and Caf 4 Nazionale, adjoining the 
 Aquarium, concerts in the afternoon or evening (according to the season). 
 
 Beer. The best is obtained at the * Birreria Dreher , Largo S. Fran- 
 cesco di Paola 8-11, near the Piazza del Plebiscito ; excellent Vienna beer, 
 35c. for a small, 70c. for a large glass; this is also a good restaurant. 
 Other birrerie at Str. S. Carlo 48, etc. — Munich beer at Bacca's German 
 Restaurant (see above). Strasburg beer at the Birreria di Strasburgo (see 
 above). At other places the slightly effervescing beer of Caflisch’s brew- 
 ery at Capodimonte (50 c. per bottle) is usually drunk. 
 
 Confectioners : Cafiisch , Toledo 253-255 ; Van Bol 4c Feste , Toledo 256, 
 with a branch at Toledo 246; Lombardi , Toledo 337; Ferroni , S.Brigida3. 
 
24 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Carriages. 
 
 — Boulangerie Frangaise , Largo S. Ferdinando 51, 52. — Epicerie Anglaise, 
 Largo Vittoria. 
 
 Cigars at the Spaccio Normale, Toledo 248, on the left when approached 
 from the Piazza del Plehiscito. Imported Havannahs from 25 c. upwards. 
 
 Money Chahgers , employed by the bank for public convenience) 
 are stationed at several of the most frequented parts of the streets. Small 
 notes under 10 fr. may be exchanged here for copper, either gratuitously, 
 or at a charge of 2 c. per 5 fr. ; the change should of course be counted. 
 In order to avoid imposition and many a trial of patience, the traveller 
 should always be well provided with small coin as well as the smallest 
 notes of the country. 
 
 Bankers. A. Levy et Comp., Palazzo Cavalcante, Toledo 348; Turner 
 & Co ., S. Lucia 64; Meuricoffre et Comp., Piazza del Municipio 52; Minasi 
 & Arlotta , Strada Montoliveto 37; Sorvillo , Str. Mandella Gaetana 27. 
 Bills of exchange must be stamped on presentation for payment with a 
 l bollo str aor dinar io\ obtainable from the bankers. 
 
 Consulates. American (Mr. Duncan), Strada della Pace 37 (11-3); 
 Austrian, Strada Mandella Gaetana 27 ; British (Mr. Grant), Pal. Caprioli, 
 Vico Colascione a Monte di Dio (10-3); Danish and Swedish , Str. Cavallerizza 
 a Chiaja 60; Dutch , Piazza del Municipio 52; French , Via Poerio 34; 
 German , Str. Guantai Nuovi69; Russian , Riviera di Chiaja 185; Spanish , 
 Str. Pace 24; Swiss , Piazza del Municipio 52. 
 
 Carriages. The distances in Naples are so great, carriage-fares are so 
 moderate , and walking in the hot season is so fatiguing , that most tra- 
 vellers will prefer driving to walking. A private two-horse carriage for 
 excursions costs 20-25 fr. per day, or 12-15 fr. for half-a-day, besides a 
 gratuity of 2-3 fr. — Carriages may be hired at the hotels, etc. The 
 ordinary cabs are of course the cheapest conveyances. 
 
 (a) Within the City , the boundaries of which are as follows (begin- 
 ning on the W.) : From the Fontana del Lione on the Mergellina and 
 the small piazza in front of S. Maria di Piedigrotta (PL A, 7) along the 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Carceri di S. Efremo Nuovo, in the Strada 
 delle Fontanelle (PI. D, 2, 3); thence to S. Gennaro dei Poveri (catacombs; 
 PI. D, 2) and the Tondo di Capodimonte with the stairs ; then to S. Efremo 
 Vecchio, the Albergo dei Poveri in the Strada Foria (PI. F, G, 1, 2) and 
 along the Strada delT Arenaccia to the sea, and the Ponte della Maddalena 
 
 (PL H, 4). 
 
 With one horse (‘carrozzella’, for two persons, By day Midnight 
 or three at most): to sunrise 
 
 Per drive — 70 c. 1 fr. 10 c. 
 
 By time (generally disadvantageous), first hour 1 fr. 50 c. 2 fr. 10~c. 
 
 Each additional hour 1 fr. 10 c. 1 fr. 50 c. 
 
 With two horses: per drive 1 fr. 40 c. 2 fr. 20 c. 
 
 First hour 2 fr. 20 c. 3 fr. 20 c. 
 
 Each additional hour 1 fr. 70 c. 2 fr. 20 c. 
 
 Each box from the station to the town 20 c., smaller articles free. In 
 order to avoid imposition, the best course is to pay the exact fare, and not 
 a single soldo more. Those who are disposed to pay liberally are sure to 
 be victimised. In case of altercations , application should be made to the 
 nearest policeman, or at the office of the Corso Pubblico on the first floor of 
 
 the Municipio. 
 
 (b) Outside the City: — One-horse Two-horse 
 
 Villaggio di Posilipo 1. 50 2. 25 
 
 Villaggio di Fuorigrotia 1. 20 1. 75 
 
 Bagnoli and Lago d'Agnano {Dog Grotto') . 2. — 3. — 
 
 Arenella , Antignano , Vomer o, S. Martino , 
 
 or Capodimonte 1. 50 2. 25 
 
 Campo di Marte or Cimeterio Nuovo ... 1. 50 2. 25 
 
 Portici 1. 75 2. 50 
 
 Miano , Marianella 2. — 3. — 
 
 Resina 2. — 3. — 
 
 Torre del Greco 2. 50 3. 75 
 
 S. Giorgio a Cremano or Barra .... 1. 75 2. 50 
 
Tramways. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 25 
 
 These are the fares from the stands nearest to the respective points. Un- 
 less a special bargain be made, the fares from other stands are 70 c. to 1 fr. 
 20 c. in excess of the above. For longer excursions, an agreement should 
 be made with the driver beforehand. On being informed of the distance 
 of the intended drive, he generally makes an extravagant demand. In 
 answer , the hirer offers what he considers a fair sum , and quietly with- 
 draws if the driver objects. This course seldom fails to produce the de- 
 sired result. On Sundays and holidays the fares are somewhat higher. 
 
 The tramways and omnibuses also afford a convenient opportunity, 
 especially to a single traveller , of visiting the Museum , and of making 
 short excursions in the environs. 
 
 Tramways. Fare on week-days till 5 p.m., 1st cl. 15-25 c., 2nd cl. 
 10-20 c., according to the distance; after 5 p.m. and on Sundays 25 and 
 20 c. for any distance. The principal line skirts the whole seaward side 
 of the town, running from the Villa Canonico by the Mergellina (PI. A, 7), 
 Riviera di Ghiaja , Largo della Vittoria , Chiatamone , 8 . Lucia , and the 
 Piazza del Plebiscito (PI. E, 6) to the Largo 8. Ferdinando (omnibus, see 
 below), whence it is continued across the Piazza del Municipio , and 
 through the Strada del Molo , Strada Piliero (along the harbour), and 
 Strada Nuova (PI. G, H, 4, J, 4, 5) to Portici , Resina , and Torre del Greco. 
 — Two branch-lines diverge from the main route: (1) From the Piazza 
 del Municipio to the Post Office (PI. 23; E. 4); (2) From the Gastello del 
 Carmine (PI. G, 4) through the Corso Garibaldi to the Railway Station 
 (PI. G, 3) and to the Porta Capuana (PI. G, 3). The Porta Capuana is 
 also the starting-point of the three following lines: (1) Through the 
 
 Strada Carbonara and the Str. Foria to the Museum (PI. E, 3) ; (2) Through 
 the Borgo di 8. Antonio Abbate to the Reclusorio and to the Tiro Provin- 
 ciate (PI. G, 2, 1); (3) Through the Strada Nuova di Poggioreale to the 
 Camposanto Nuovo (PI. J, 1). 
 
 Omnibuses. The vehicles of the various routes are distinguished by 
 different colours. Fare on all the lines, 20 c. for a whole route, 10 c. for 
 half. The starting-point of several lines is the Largo S. Ferdinando 
 (PI. E, 6), a small piazza adjoining the Piazza del Plebiscito on the N. ; 
 the omnibus station is in the corner, between the Palazzo Reale and the 
 Teatro S. Carlo. The following lines diverge hence: (1) Up the Toledo 
 to the Museum (PI. E, 3), and thence to Capodimonte (PI. E, 1). (2) Up 
 the Toledo to the Piazza Dante (PI. E, 4), and then to the right through 
 the Porta Alba (p. 42), and along the Strada de’ Tribunali to Gastel Ga- 
 puano (generally known as I Tribunali; PI. F, G, 3). (3) Along the coast 
 to S. M. del Carmine (PI. 59 ; G, 4) and to the Reclusorio (PI. G, 2, 1). — 
 From the entrance to the Villa in the Largo Vittoria (PI. D, 6) an 
 omnibus runs through the Strada di Ghiaja , up the Toledo , across the 
 Piazza della Garitd (PI. E, 4, 5), and through the Via Bellini and Strada 
 Foria to the Reclusorio (PI. G, 2, 1). — Other lines are: From the Mer- 
 gellina (PI. A, 7) by the Largo della Vittoria (PI. D, 6) to the Post Office 
 (PI. 23; E, 4). From the Strada Pasquale a Ghiaja (PI. C, 6) across the 
 Largo S. Ferdinando (PI. E, 6) to the Railway Station (PI. G, 3). The 
 line from the Mergellina by Cariati to the Piazza Salvator Rosa (p. 87; 
 PI. D, 3) traverses the whole of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (Cariati about 
 halfway). — Omnibuses also ply from the Largo S. Ferdinando (see above) 
 to Portici and S. Giorgio. — The elegant open carriages of the Societd 
 Omnibus , a private company, ply in the streets along the coast, at fares 
 similar to those of the omnibuses. 
 
 Boats. Charges vary according to circumstances. A boat with four 
 rowers about 15 fr. per day. A row in the harbour 1-1 1/2 fr. for the first, 
 
 1 fr. for each additional hour. A previous agreement should invariably be 
 made. Boats to the steamers, 1 fr. 
 
 Commissionnaires charge 6 fr. a day, or for a single walk 1 fr. ; but 
 travellers who intend making purchases had better dispense with their ser- 
 vices. Some of the best guides are Swiss and Germans. Johann Huber , 
 Zum Stein , Staub , and others organise excursions in the environs. Thus 
 Huber generally escorts a party weekly to Amalfi, Ravello, and Psestum, 
 the excursion lasting from Monday morning to Tuesday evening, and the 
 
26 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Baths. 
 
 charge, including quarters for the night, being 50 fr. for each person. 
 Trustworthy information may be obtained at Detken's book-shop (see below). 
 
 Baths. Warm: Bagni della Pace , entrance between Nos. 16 and 
 18 Strada della Pace, near Chiatamone (bath in summer 1 fr. 15, in 
 the evening 1 fr. 35 c.; in winter 1 fr. 70 or 2 fr. 50 c.; six baths in 
 summer fr., in winter 9 fr. •, gratuity for each bath 2 soldi). Others 
 near the Hotel de Rome at S. Lucia; Vico Belle Donne a Chiaja 12; Ca- 
 lata S. Marco a Fontana Medina 6; Stabilimento Idroterapico Partenopeo 
 of Dr. Paoni, Strada Cavallerizza a Chiaja 47; Bagni del Chiatomone , 
 opposite the Castel dell 1 Ovo. — Sea-Bathing in summer. The most fre- 
 quented place is beyond the Villa Nazionale, but as the drains of the town 
 empty themselves in the vicinity, the water is not very clean. A better 
 place is at the Posilipo near the Villa Monplaisir, immediately beyond 
 the precincts of the city ; large cabinet 1 fr. with towels, small cabinet 
 50 c. ; fee 5 c. — On entering the water , bathers should take care to 
 observe the number of their cabinet, and to avoid touching the stakes, 
 which are encrusted with very sharp shells. — The baths by S. Lucia and 
 the Marinella cannot be recommended to strangers. 
 
 Lieux d'Aisance {Latrine Pubbliche ; 10 c.) at the Villa, by the egress 
 towards the sea ; also by the promontory of S. Lucia, to which a flight 
 of steps descends, to the left; in the Toledo, to the left of the Museum; 
 at the Reclusorio. 
 
 Physicians. Dr. Barringer , Str. Vittoria 41; Dr. Dempster , Riv. di 
 Chiaja; Dr. Tweedie Stodart , Palazzo Beato, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 40; 
 Mr. Wyatt , S. Caterina a Chiaja, Pal. Calabritta; Dr. Cantani , director 
 of the Clinica Medica at the university, Str. Fuoriporta Medina 23; Dr. 
 Malbranc , physician to the International Hospital (see below); Dr. Schron , 
 professor of anatomy at the university, Palazzo Montemiletto , Corso Vitt. 
 Emanuele 152, hours of consultation 9-10 and 2-3; Dr. Obenaus , physician 
 of the German hospital (see below) , Palazzo Cassano , Str. Monte di Dio 
 14 a Pizzofalcone ; Dr. C. Vittorelli , Str. Nardones 8 (1-2). 
 
 Chemists. English , Kernot, Strada S. Carlo 14. German , Berncastel, 
 Largo S. Francesco di Paola 7, adjoining the Piazza del Plebiscito. Ho- 
 meopathic Druggist , Toledo 388. Drug-dealers , Fratelli Hermann, Piazza 
 del Municipio. 
 
 Hospitals. In the event of serious illness travellers are strongly re- 
 commended to procure admission to one or other of the following hospi- 
 tals: (1) Ospedale International e, Vico Stretto ai Miracoli (PL E, 2), under 
 the superintendence of Dr. Malbranc (1st cl. 15, 2nd cl. 6 fr. per day); 
 (2) Ospedale Tedesco , Cappella Vecchia 18, under the superintendence of 
 Dr. Obenaus. 
 
 Teachers of Languages, Addresses may be obtained at the booksellers'. 
 
 Shops. Gloves, coral, tortoise-shell, and lava ornaments may be men- 
 tioned as specialities of Naples. Copies of ancient bronzes, Etruscan vases, 
 etc. are also well executed here. Bargaining is absolutely necessary in 
 order to prevent extortion. Those who know something of the language 
 will of course buy to the best advantage. 
 
 Antique Bronzes. Copies may be obtained in the photograph-shops 
 of Sommer , Scala , Amodio , etc. (Narcissus 100-150 fr. ; Dancing Faun 130- 
 160 fr.). 
 
 Antiquities. Barone , Str. Trinita Maggiore 6, first floor, nearly oppo- 
 site S. Chiara. 
 
 Booksellers. Detken <Sc Rocholl , Piazza del Plebiscito, circulating li- 
 brary, newspapers, etc.; Furchheim , Piazza dei Martiri 59, at both of 
 these English and foreign books ; Marghieri , Toledo 140. Dorant , English 
 reading-room, Riviera di Chiaja 267. 
 
 Bookbinder, Str. di Chiaja 65. 
 
 Bronzes, see Antique Bronzes. 
 
 Chemists, see above. 
 
 Coral and Lava. *Achille Squadrilli , Str. Pace 7, in the Palazzo Nun- 
 
Shops. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 27 
 
 ziante, first floor, entrance by the court; pretty brooches in lava 12Vz, 
 earrings 10, bracelets 2 l /% fr. and upwards; fixed prices, but 5 per cent 
 discount allowed. * Bolten , Piazza de 1 Martiri 58; Casalta , Piazza dei 
 Martiri 60,61; Rocco Morabito , Piazza dei Martiri 32; Merlino , Strada del 
 Gigante 18, 19; M. Piscione , Riviera di Chiaja271; JV. Piscione , Str. S. Ca- 
 terina a Chiaja 35-36; Fratelli Errico , Str. S. Caterina a Chiaja 39-40; 
 Cagliardi , Largo Vittoria 7; De Caro , S. Lucia 70; Stella , Str. Pace 9, 
 cameos. — The so-called lava-ornaments are manufactured of a kind of 
 calcareous tufa, a softer material also found on Mt. Vesuvius, having been 
 probably thrown up by former eruptions, and presenting various tints 
 of grey, brown, greenish, and reddish colours. 
 
 Gloves. Budillon , Strada di Chiaja 202; Cuosta , Str. di Chiaja 137; 
 Amendola , Str. di Chiaja 10; Piscicelli , Str. di Chiaja 248; Criscuolo, Strada 
 S. Caterina a Chiaja 74-76. 
 
 Hairdresser, see Perfumer. 
 
 Hatter, Mammolino , Toledo 258. 
 
 Marbles of Vitulano. These beautiful coloured marbles , from the 
 quarries which furnished the adornments of the grand staircase at Caserta 
 (p. 10), may be seen at Piazza Cavour 54, near the Museum. 
 
 Millinery. Ricco , Piazza dei Martiri 30 I ; Pszenny-Fass , Str. S. Cate- 
 rina a Chiaja 38; Jourdan, Strada di Chiaja 209, first floor; Angelici & Co., 
 Str. di Chiaja 185-187. 
 
 Music, see Pianos. 
 
 Opticians. Heinemann , Toledo 213; Tailor , Toledo 229. 
 
 Perfumer, Zempt , Str. S. Caterina a Chiaja 33, 34 ; the pleasant, soft 
 Neapolitan soap is sold here. 
 
 Photographs are sold at the book-shops, and also by Sommer, Largo 
 Vittoria, where views of every part of Italy, copies of bronzes, terra- 
 cottas, etc. may be purchased; Scala , Strada S. Caterina a Chiaja 42; 
 Amodio, same street, Nos. 3,4; Gargiulo & Gomez, Strada S. Lucia 85, 
 86 ; these three also sell bronzes, terracottas, etc. ; Kielmeier, Strada Chia- 
 tamone 20; Rive , Strada Chiatamone 36. 
 
 Pianos (also for hire). Eppler, Strada Nardones 95; Helzel, Strada 
 di Chiaja 138; Mach , Str. Baglivo Uries a Toledo 61; Sievers , Palazzo 
 Francavilla, Strada di Chiaja 149; Schmidt , Strada Nardones 51. — Ger- 
 man Music at Detken’s; Italian at Cottrau's , Largo S. Ferdinando 49, and 
 Ricordi's, Strada S. Carlo 18. — Music Masters , very numerous; addresses 
 obtained at the music-shops. 
 
 Shoemakers. Finoja , Strada Gaetano Filangieri (Str. Alabardieri) 53, 
 54; Baldelli , Strada di Chiaja 169; De Notaris , Str. di Chiaja 189; Cal- 
 zoleria Reale di M. Forte , Str. di Chiaja 81. 
 
 Stationers. Richter, Colonnade di S. Francesco di Paola 10-12 and 
 Toledo 309; Steeger, Str. Gennaro Serra 22; Tipaldi, Str. Montoliveto 51 
 (artists 1 requisites); also at Piazza dei Martiri 55. 
 
 Tailors. Lennon (English), Str. S. Caterina a Chiaia 2; Mackenzie , 
 Piazza de 1 Martiri 52, 53; Kieper, Str. Montoliveto 61. 
 
 Tortoise Shell. Fratelli Labriola, Strada S. Caterina a Chiaja 41-46; 
 Tagliaferri, same street, 43; L. Labriola, Str. Chiatamone 23bis. Also at 
 the small shops in the Strada S. Carlo and its prolongation towards the 
 Piazza del Municipio. 
 
 Umbrellas and Fans. Gilardini, Toledo 335, 336 ; De Martino , Strada 
 di Chiaja 210. 
 
 Vases, Majolica, Terracottas, and Statuettes (of Neapolitan fig- 
 ures, very characteristic): Giustiniani , Str. del Gigante 10; Mollica , Strada 
 S. Lucia 27. Also at several of the photograph-shops (see above). 
 
 Watchmakers. Gutwenger , Str. S. Caterina a Chiaja 66; Eberhard, 
 Str. di Chiaja 207 ; Str. S. Brigida 47. 
 
 Wood Carvings from Sorrento: Gargiulo , Str. S. Caterina a Chiaja 
 44 and 5. 
 
 Goods Agents, C. Stein & Co., Strada Montoliveto. 
 
28 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Theatres. 
 
 Theatres (comp. p. xxiv). The *Teatro S. Carlo (p. 37), one of the 
 largest theatres in Europe, contains six tiers of boxes, 32 in each. Operas 
 and ballet only. Parterre (pit) 3 fr. (arm-chair 6 fr.) ; boxes, 1st tier (par- 
 terre) 40 fr., 2nd tier 50 fr., 3rd 32 fr., and so on. — Teatro Fiorentini, 
 in the street of that name. Dramas. Pit 2 fr. ; boxes, 1st tier 11 fr. 
 75 c., 2nd tier 12 fr. 75 c., etc. — Teatro del Fondo (or Mercadante ), 
 in the Str. del Molo, dramas and comedies, and in summer operas. Pit 
 2 fr. (arm-chair 4 fr.) ; boxes, 1st tier 15 fr., 2nd tier 20 fr., etc. — Teatro 
 Nuovo, in the Vico del Teatro Nuovo, a side-street of the Toledo. Comic 
 opera. — Teatro Bellini, Strada Bellini (PI. E, 3), entrance by the Via 
 Conte di Ruvo. Pit 2 fr. ^ boxes 6, 10, 14 fr., etc. — Teatro Sannazaro, 
 Str. di Chiaja, a pleasing little theatre for operettas, etc. Pit 3 fr. — San 
 Carlino, Piazza del Municipio, where the visitor may become acquainted 
 with ‘Pulcinella 1 , the ‘Punch and Judy -1 of the Neapolitans, to whom the 
 spectacle is an unfailing source of amusement. These performances (twice 
 daily) are said to derive their origin from the ancient Oscan comedy of 
 Atella. Those who have some knowledge of the Neapolitan dialect will 
 find them not beneath their notice. Pit 85 c. ; boxes 6 fr. 40 , or 5 fr. 
 10 c. — Teatro Partenope, similar to the last, Piazza Cavour. 
 
 Post and Telegraph-Office in the Palazzo Gravina (PI. 23; E, 4), Strada 
 Montoliveto. Branch Offices in the Largo S. Caterina a Chiaja , the rail- 
 way station, Str. del Duomo 58, and at the Immacolatella on the quay 
 (p. 39). Letters should be posted at the branch-offices 2 hrs., and at the 
 general post-office 1 hr. before the departure of the mail-train for which 
 they are intended. — The chief Telegraph Office , on the first floor of the 
 Palazzo Gravina, is open day and night. Branch Offices : Str. S. Giacomo 
 42, 43, Str. del Duomo 136 (63), Corso Garibaldi 45, nearly opposite the 
 station, and Largo Garofalo a Chiaja 12, Vico Concezione a Toledo 16, 
 and Str. Foria 108. 
 
 Railways. The station is at the E. end of the town, in the Corso 
 Garibaldi (PI. G, 3). Passengers should be at the station in good time 
 (comp. p. xviii). Those who wish to go by an omnibus to the station 
 should ask before getting into it whether it will reach the station in 
 time, as the omnibuses do not run in connection with the trains. 
 
 Steamboats. Most of the offices are on the quay. The chief steam- 
 boat company for S. Italy and Sicily is the S.ocieta J. & V. Florio & Co.., 
 Str. Piliero 30, the vessels of which ply to Palermo, to Messina and Reggio 
 (see p. 222), to Marseilles via Leghorn and Genoa, etc. (comp, the time- 
 tables). Some of this company's vessels are new and comfortable, while 
 others are the reverse. Enquiry on this point should therefore be made 
 beforehand. — Vessels of the French company Valery Freres et Fils , Str. 
 Piliero 1, and of Fraissinet et Cie., Str. Piliero 3, start once weekly for 
 Marseilles, those of the first-named company calling at Civita Vecchia, 
 Leghorn, and Genoa. — The vessels of Rubattino & Co., Str. Piliero 33, 
 ply to Messina , Leghorn , Cagliari, Tunis, Alexandria, etc. — During the 
 prevalence of cholera many of the steamers cease to ply. — Embarcation 
 of each passenger 1 fr. incl. luggage, comp. p. 21. 
 
 Street Traffic. The stranger is beset and importuned in the principal 
 streets by numbers of hawkers, who of course practise gross imposition on 
 those who are unacquainted with the prices. As a rule one-tliird of the 
 sum demanded should be offered, and all discussion avoided. 
 
 Shoe-blacks , whose knocking is intended to attract passers-by, 10 c. 
 
 Matches. A box of vestas ( cerini , 10, or two boxes 15 c.) is a desirable 
 acquisition, as matches are never provided at the hotels. 
 
 Vendors of Iced Water (acquaiuoli) carry on a very brisk traffic in 
 summer. They are usually provided with two large tubs filled with snow, 
 in which the water is cooled, and a supply of lemons, etc. Iced water 
 2 c. per glass ; with lemon, amarena, or anisette 5 c. ; with lemon, syrup, 
 and anisette 10 c. — There are also several mineral springs in the town, 
 containing sulphur, iron, and carbonic acid gas ; the best known is at S. 
 
Festivals. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 29 
 
 Lucia. Women and girls offer a draught to passers-by (5 c.). The water 
 has a slightly medicinal effect, and the smell is disagreeable. 
 
 Newspapers (5c. each). The most important are: the Corriere del 
 Mattino , and the Roma, both published about noon ; in the evening II 
 Piccolo and the popular II Pungolo (il pungolo = a goad for driving 
 cattle). ‘E uscit ’o pung 1 , or ‘volit ’o picc 1 (the o being strongly emphas- 
 ised), i. e. ‘e uscito lo Pungolo 1 , or ‘volete lo Piccolo 1 ( lo being the Neapol- 
 itan form of the article il ) are calls which resound everywhere between 
 8 and 10 p. m.). 
 
 National and Religious Festivals. These are inseparably connected with 
 each other, and, though inferior in magnificence to the church-festivals which 
 used to take place at Rome, they exhibit the most joyous and animated 
 phase of Neapolitan life. The principal pilgrimages take place in summer. 
 The carriages are decked with wreaths and banners ; tambourine^ and lungs 
 are plied most lustily ; the horses, especially in the Chiaja, are driven at 
 a furious pace. The political changes of late have deprived many of these 
 festivals of their former significance, but the more important are still 
 extremely interesting. 
 
 The Festival of the Vergine di Piedigrotta (p. 86) was formerly the 
 greatest of all, but under the present government has lost its importance. — 
 A more interesting sight is now presented by the pilgrimages at Easter to 
 the shrine of the Madonna di Monte Vergine near Avellino (p. 176), 
 which are prolonged for three days , when the surrounding population 
 assembles from all quarters in carriages and on foot, tricked out in all the 
 magnificence they can command. The Neapolitans then return to the town 
 by Nola in a gay procession which vies with those of the Bacchanalians of old. 
 On the following day they proceed to celebrate the festival of the Madonna 
 dell 1 Arco, 6 M. from Naples, at the foot of Monte Somma, from which they 
 again return in procession in the most exuberant spirits. — On Ascension 
 Day the festival of the Madonna of the baths of Scafati (p. 163) takes 
 place near Pompeii. — On 15th Aug. is celebrated the festival of Capodi- 
 monte. — Other festivities of a more strictly ecclesiastical character 
 are celebrated at Christmas, Easter , on Ascension-day, on the festivals of 
 Corpus Christi {Fete de Dieu ), St. Antony, and above all on that of St. 
 Januarius in May, September, and December. 
 
 The Festival of the Constitution (la Festa dello Statuto), of more 
 recent origin, is celebrated throughout Italy on the first Sunday of June. 
 In the forenoon military parade in the Piazza del Plebiscito. In front of 
 S. Francesco mass is celebrated , accompanied by the thunder of the 
 guns from the vessels of war and the harbour-batteries. Concerts are given 
 at different places in the evening, and fireworks are displayed, especially 
 at the Villa. The Garibaldi hymn invariably elicits enthusiastic applause. 
 
 The Tombola , which is previously announced by placards, attracts a 
 large concourse of spectators. 
 
 English Church in the Str. S. Pasquale, at the back of the Str. di 
 Chiaja, on the site presented to the English residents by Garibaldi when 
 dictator in 1860 *, Service on Sundays at 11 a. m. and 3. 15 p. m. — Presbyterian 
 Church (Chiesa Scozzese), S. Cappella Vecchia 2; Service on Sundays 
 at 11a.m. and 3. p. m., on Wednesdays at 3 p. m. — Italian Service of the 
 Waldensian Church, Monte Calvario, also on Sunday evenings in the Scotch 
 church. — French and German Protestant Church , Str. Carlo Poerio, Piazza 
 dei Martiri (PI. D, 6). 
 
 The Evangelical Schools for Italian children (supported by the Evan- 
 gelical Aid Committee), in the building connected with the Presbyterian 
 Church (see above) and at No. 66 Magno Cavallo, may be visited on 
 Monday forenoons, 9-12. — A visit to the Kindergarten School in the Ex- 
 Collegio Medico, Largo S. Aniello, may also be found interesting. 
 
 Duration of Stay and Disposition of Time. 
 
 With respect to the duration of the visitor’s stay it is difficult to 
 offer a suggestion; the taste and inclination of the individual must here 
 
30 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Disposition of Time. 
 
 more than almost anywhere else decide the question. Suffice it to ob- 
 serve that within a period of ten days all the most interesting points 
 may be visited, whilst many months may he delightfully spent in explor- 
 ing the incomparable beauties of the environs. Where time is limited, 
 it should be devoted almost exclusively to the latter, as the town con- 
 tains few objects of interest, with the exception of the Museum and one 
 or two of the churches. Those to whom the town is unbearably distaste; 
 ful should endeavour to obtain accommodation in the vicinity. Choice 
 of season, see p. xxiii. 
 
 The Chief Sights of the city may be seen hastily in 3-4 days. The 
 mornings may be devoted to the churches, the middle of the day to the 
 Museum, and the afternoons to walks or drives in the neighbourhood. 
 The evening may then be spent at the Villa Nazionale. The following 
 are specially worthy of mention: — 
 
 Museums : **Museo Nazionale (p. 59) daily 9-3 o’clock, admission 1 fr., 
 Sundays gratis } museum and church of S. Martino (p. 88 ), with *View, 9-4, 
 admission 1 fr., Sundays gratis. — * Catacombs (p. 43) daily, admission 1 fr. 
 — Palaces: Reale (p. 36), Capodimonte (p. 44), Fondi (p. 46), Santangelo 
 (p. 52), Castel Nuovo (p. 38). — Churches: "Cathedral, best seen about 
 noon (p. 55), "Sta. Chiara (p. 48), *S. Domenico 7-11 a. m. (p. 49), *Monto- 
 liveto (p. 47) } *L’Incoronata, early in the morning (p. 46) } Cloisters of 
 S. Severino (p. 52)} S. Giovanni (p. 54)} S. Maria del Carmine (p. 40)} 
 S. Lorenzo (p. 58), S. Paolo Maggiore (p. 57). — Views: ** Camaldoli 
 (p. 93), "Sant’ Elmo (p. 89), "Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p. 90) *, "Villa Na- 
 zionale, in the evening (p. 84). 
 
 Most of the Excursions in the Environs (RR. 5-12) may be made 
 from Naples in one day, but both time and money may often be econo- 
 mised if the traveller combines several of them so as to avoid the ne- 
 cessity of returning to Naples every evening. Those who intend to 
 explore the surrounding scenery should therefore give up their rooms at 
 Naples, but leave behind them all superfluous luggage, in order that 
 they may start on their tour unfettered. In making these excursions it 
 is generally advantageous to travel as a member of a party of three or 
 four persons, by whom carriage and boat fares, fees, and other expenses 
 are shared. In this case too ‘pension’ charges may often be stipulated 
 for at the hotels for a stay of even one or two days ( 6-10 fr. for bed, 
 breakfast, dinner, and supper). 
 
 A week or a fortnight may be very pleasantly spent as follows : — 
 
 Pozzuoli , Baiae , Capo Miseno (R. 5) 1-1 days. 
 
 Procida and Ischia (R. 6 ) 2 ,, 
 
 Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius (R. 8 ), Herculaneum (p. 112). 1-1 ,, 
 
 Pompeii (R. 9) 72-1 ,1 
 
 Castellamare , Sorrento , Capri (R. 10) 2-3 ,, 
 
 Amalfi , Salerno , Paestum (R. 11) 2-3 ,, 
 
 Caserta and Capua (pp. 7-10) ... ... . 1 ,, 
 
 672 - 12 V 2 days. 
 
 A visit to the islands, especially those of Procida and Ischia, should 
 not be undertaken in winter unless the weather be calm and settled. 
 
 Small Change is even more frequently required in the environs of 
 Naples than in the city itself. Contributions are levied on the traveller 
 on every possible occasion, whether for admission to a point of view, 
 or for leave to cross a field, or for services rendered. An abundant supply 
 of small notes and copper should therefore be procured at a money- 
 changer’s (p. 24) before starting. 
 
 ‘ Vedi Napoli e poi mori 1 ’ 
 
 Naples is the most populous town in Italy (450,800 inhab. f), 
 and occupies one of the most beautiful situations in the world. The 
 
 f According to the official returns of 31st Dec., 1876, the population 
 including the suburbs was 449,301 souls. The official statistics are not 
 
History. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 31 
 
 magnificent bay has from the most ancient times been the object 
 of enthusiastic admiration, and it is annually visited by thousands 
 of strangers in quest of enjoyment or health. In historical interest 
 this part of the Italian peninsula is singularly deficient. Nature, it 
 would appear, has so bountifully lavished her gifts on this favoured 
 spot, that the energy and strength of the most powerful nations 
 have invariably succumbed to its alluring influence. Greeks, Oscans, 
 Romans, Goths, Byzantines, Normans, Germans, and Spaniards have 
 in succession been masters of the place ; yet it has rarely attained 
 even a transient reputation in the annals of politics, art, or lite- 
 rature. Those who have recognised in Florence the focus of the 
 Italian Renaissance, in Rome the metropolis of a bygone age, in 
 Venice and Genoa, and even in Pisa and Siena, the splendour 
 of mediaeval republics , cannot but experience a feeling of 
 disappointment on beholding Naples. The dearth of handsome 
 buildings and indigenous works of art creates a void, for which 
 Herculaneum and Pompeii with their matchless treasures of 
 antiquity alone in some measure compensate. The domestic 
 architecture of Naples , the narrow, dingy streets , the high and 
 narrow houses, with their balconies in front of every window, 
 and their flat roofs, are far from attractive. The never-ceasing 
 noise , the interminable clatter of wheels at all hours of the day 
 and night, the cracking of whips, braying of donkeys, and shrill 
 shouting of hawkers, render Naples a most distasteful place, espe- 
 cially to those whose stay is limited. To these annoyances 
 are added the insolent importunities of drivers, guides, street- 
 vendors , beggars , etc.., who often combine the most cringing 
 manners with the grossest attempts at extortion. In justice, 
 however, be it said, that of late years there has been some slight 
 improvement in these matters. 
 
 The History of the City of Naples extends back to a very remote age. The 
 origin and name ofthecity are Greek. About theyear B.C. 1056iEolians from 
 Chalcis in Euboea founded the colony of Kyme , Lat. Cumae , on a rocky 
 eminence in the bay of Puteoli, which soon became a powerful and pros- 
 perous commercial town. From Cumse the colony of Phaleron or Parthe- 
 nope (named after the tomb of a Syren of that name, Plin. H. N. iii. 5) 
 appears to have emanated at a very early period, and to have been at va- 
 rious times re-inforced by immigrants from Greece, who founded the Nea- 
 polis (or new city), whilst Parthenope, the portion erected by the original 
 colonists, was named Palaeopolis (old city), a distinction which was main- 
 tained till the conquest of Palaeopolis by the Romans, B.C. 326. After 
 that period Naples remained faithful to Rome, both in the wars against 
 Pyrrhus and against Hannibal, and owing to the beauty of its situation 
 it soon became a favourite residence of the Roman magnates. Lucullus 
 possessed gardens here on the Posilipo and the hill of Pizzofalcone, where, 
 in A. D. 476, Romulus Augustulus, the last feeble monarch of the Western 
 Empire, breathed his last. Augustus frequently resided at Naples, and 
 Virgil composed some of his most beautiful poetry here. The emperors 
 
 framed on a topographical, but on a political and administrative basis. 
 (Comp. p. vi.) The province of Naples is about 420 sq. M. in area, and in 
 1876 contained a population of 929,382, i.e. exclusive of the city, about 
 1150 persons per English square mile. 
 
32 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Site. 
 
 Tiberius, Claudius, Nero, Titus, and Hadrian were among the chief bene- 
 factors of the city, which continued to enjoy its municipal freedom and 
 its Greek constitution. It suffered fearfully during the wars of the bar- 
 barian immigration. In 536 it was taken by storm by Belisarius, and 
 again in 543 by the Goths under Totilas. The city soon threw off the 
 Byzantine supremacy, and under its doge or ‘duca 1 maintained its inde- 
 pendence against the Lombard princes, until after a long siege in 1130 it 
 at length succumbed to the Normans under Roger. Frederick II. founded 
 the university, but seldom made Naples his residence. It was constituted 
 the capital of the kingdom by Charles I. of Anjou, and was greatly ex- 
 tended by subsequent princes , especially by Ferdinand I. of Arragon , the 
 viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo, and Charles III. of Bourbon. In comparison 
 with the other capitals of Europe, the population of Naples has increased 
 but slowly. There were 358,550 inhab. in 1830, 400,813 in 1840, 416,475 
 in 1850, 418,968 in 1860, and 415,549 only in 1871. Since the annexation 
 the city has improved considerably, but the eradication of the more deeply 
 rooted evils must necessarily progress slowly. 
 
 The national characteristic is still, as it ever has been, love of the 
 pleasure of the moment. The Neapolitans are at once the most joyous and 
 the most careless, the most indolent and the most squalid of the human 
 race. Nothing appears capable of permanently depressing the buoyancy of 
 their spirits. If they ever indulge in melancholy, its duration is exceed- 
 ingly brief*, and accordingly at the present day not a trace is to be ob- 
 served of the political tempest which so long cast a gloom over their city. 
 
 Naples, situated in 40° 52' N. latitude, lies on the N. side of 
 the bay, which extends for about 35 M. from the Capo di Mi - 
 seno , its N.W. boundary, to the Punta della Campanella , its S.E. 
 limit, and is separated from the open sea by the islands of 
 Procida and Ischia towards the N., and Capri towards the S. The 
 S.E. side of the bay is formed by the Monte Santangelo , a spur 
 of the Apennines, 5000 ft. in height, which is connected with 
 the island of Capri by a reef of rock. At its base lie the vil- 
 lages of Massa Luhrense , Sorrento , Vico Equense , and Castel- 
 lamare , near the ancient Stabiae which was overwhelmed by 
 an eruption. The other sides of the bay are bounded by the 
 Campanian plain, the surface of which has undergone numerous 
 changes in consequence of volcanic agency. In the middle of the 
 plain between the chain of Santangelo and the hilly district N. of 
 Naples rises Mount Vesuvius , dividing it into two distinct dis- 
 tricts, the southern of which is intersected by the river Sarno , and 
 the northern by the Sebeto. The plain, as well as the slopes of 
 Vesuvius itself, is luxuriantly fertile, and one of the most densely 
 peopled districts in the world. In the direction of Castellamare 
 and beyond the Sarno are situated the Ruins of Pompeii , and 
 among numerous other villages, the populous Torre delV An - 
 nunziata , Torre del Greco , Resina on the site of the ruined Her- 
 culaneum, and Portici. The N.W. side of the bay has formally 
 ages been the scene of powerful volcanic agency. Naples, which 
 stretches E. towards the plain, nearly to the Sebeto, is to a great 
 extent situated on a slight volcanic eminence. This tract is iden- 
 tical with the Campi Phlegraei, so frequently mentioned by the 
 ancients, which extended from Naples to Cumae. They commence 
 with the hills of the Madonna del Pianto , Capodichino , and 
 
Site. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 33 
 
 Miradois towards the E., and also embrace those of Capodimonte , 
 Scutillo, and S. Eremo as far as Pizzofalcone and Castello delV Ovo, 
 and beyond these extend to the Vomero and the eminence of Posilipo. 
 Tufa, mingled with fragments of lava, trachyte, pumice-stone, etc., 
 is observed in all directions. Mineral springs and gaseous exhal- 
 ations testify to the volcanic nature of the district. The chain of 
 Posilipo, separating the bay from that of Pozzuoli, is united by a 
 subaqueous ridge with the small island of Nisida , an extinct crater. 
 Farther inland are situated the craters of Lago d ’ Agnano, Astroni , 
 and Solfatara. On a promontory lies the town of Pozzuoli; farther 
 along the coast is the volcanic Monte Nuovo , then the Lago 
 Lucrino with the ruins of Baiae , behind which is the crater of 
 Lago Averno and the site of ancient Cumae. Lastly, towards the 
 S., are the Lago Fusaro and the hill of Misenum , with the Mare 
 Morto and Porto Miseno. This range is connected with the 
 pre-eminently volcanic islands of Procida , Vivara , and the more 
 important Ischia with the extinct volcano Epomeo. 
 
 The City lies at the base and on the slopes of several slight 
 hills, rising from the sea in amphitheatre-like form. It is divided 
 into two unequal parts by the heights of Capodimonte, S. Elmo, and 
 Pizzofalcone , which terminate in the narrow ridge surmounted by 
 the Castello dell’ Ovo. To the S. E. of Capodimonte, and eastwards as 
 far as the Sebeto, lies the greater and most ancient part of Naples, 
 now the business quarter, intersected from N. to S. by the Toledo 
 (now Via di Roma), the main street, which is continued towards 
 the N. by the Strada Nuova di Capodimonte. The most important 
 streets in this quarter are the three which intersect the Toledo — 
 the Strada S. Trinith Maggiore with its prolongation S. Biagio de' 
 Librai , the Strada dei Tribunali , and the Strada Foria, the conti- 
 nuation of the Piazza Cavour ; then the new Strada del Duomo , to 
 the E. of the Toledo and nearly parallel with it, which is to be 
 extended down to the coast ; and lastly several broad new streets 
 recently constructed on the E. side of the town. The only impor- 
 tant open spaces are the Piazza del Plebiscito and the Piazza del 
 Municipio , from which last diverges the broad Strada Medina. 
 From the Piazza del Municipio the Strada del Molo leads us to the 
 harbour, along which a handsome quay, called the Strada del Pi- 
 liero and the Strada Nuova, runs eastwards as far as the Castel del 
 Carmine. Near the castle is the Piazza del Mercato. The popu- 
 lation of the whole of this part of the town is densely crowded, and 
 it is now the anxious endeavour of the authorities to remedy the 
 consequent physical and social evils by the construction of new 
 and commodious dwellings. — The western and more modern quar- 
 ter of the city is much smaller than the eastern , and is preferred 
 to it by visitors owing to the superiority of its situation, air, and 
 views. At the base of the hill of Posilipo, and skirting the coast, 
 runs the broad Riviera di Chiaja , connected with the Toledo by 
 
 Baedeker, Italy III. 7th Edition. 3 
 
34 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Site. 
 
 means of the busy Strada di Chiaja , and bounded on the S. by 
 the gardens of the Villa Nazionale. Adjoining the Chiaja on the 
 W. are the Piediyrotta and Mergellina quarters, beyond which are 
 situated numerous charming villas. To this western part of the 
 city belongs also the new Corso Vittorio Emanuele , a street nearly 
 21/2 M. in length, which leads from the Strada Salvator Rosa (a 
 street beginning opposite the museum), passes below the Castel S. 
 Elmo, skirts the hill of Posilipo about halfway up, and gradually 
 descends in windings to the W. end of the Riviera di Chiaja. 
 
 The length of Naples from the Mergellina to the barracks at 
 the mouth of the Sebeto is 3 M., the breadth from Capodimonte 
 to the Castel dell’ Ovo 2 M. It contains upwards of 1300 streets 
 and lanes, provided with gas in 1840, and well paved, except 
 as regards accommodation for foot-passengers. The squares are 
 called Larghi , but the more modern name ‘ Piazza ’ has recently 
 been introduced ; the principal streets are called Strade , or now 
 Vie; the cross-streets Vichi ; the narrow lanes ascending the hills, 
 and generally inaccessible to carriages, Calate or Salite , or when 
 so precipitous as to require steps, Gradoni. 
 
 The city itself can boast of but few Graeco-Roman antiquities, 
 but (besides the churches) it possesses live forts (Castello S. Elmo, 
 dell’ Ovo, Nuovo, del Carmine, Capuano) and two gates (Porta del 
 Carmine and Capuana) of mediaeval construction. The town has 
 on the whole a modern appearance. 
 
 Our description of the sights is arranged in topographical 
 order, and is divided as follows : — 
 
 1. The Side of the City next the Sea , from the Largo della Vit- 
 toria (PI. D, 6) eastwards, round the Pizzofalcone , by 
 S. Lucia, the Piazza delPlebiscito, and the Piazza del Muni- 
 cipio, and along the quay to the S. E. angle of the town. 
 
 2. The Toledo , with its side-streets, and the Capodimonte . 
 
 3. The Old Town , to the E. of the Toledo , and between that 
 street and the harbour. 
 
 4. The Museum. 
 
 5. The Modern Quarters (Chiaja, Villa, and Corso Vittorio 
 Emanuele) and the Castel S. Elmo. 
 
 6. The Posilipo , with Camaldoli and other points in the im- 
 mediate environs. 
 
 The traveller may again be reminded here that, if his time is 
 limited, he had better disregard most of the sights within the town. 
 
 I. Side of the City next the Sea, to the E. of 
 Pizzofalcone. 
 
 The Largo della Vittoria (PI. D, 6), an open space adorned 
 with trees and a fountain, and recently enlarged on the side next 
 the sea, in front of the Villa Nazionale, may be regarded as the 
 
Castel delV Ovo . NAPLES. 4. Route . 35 
 
 central point of the strangers’ quarter. A handsome quay con- 
 structed within the last few years, and flanked by a number of new 
 buildings, extends hence towards the E. along the coast. On our 
 left Tises the Pizzofalcone, a spur of the hill of S. Elmo, entirely 
 covered with buildings and walls, around the base of which runs 
 the Strada Chiatamone , a street parallel with the quay and a little 
 above it , with a number of handsome hotels and other buildings. 
 
 From the S. end of the Pizzofalcone runs out an embankment 
 and bridge, connecting it with a small rocky island, the Megctris 
 of Pliny. On this island rises the Castello delP Ovo , which in its 
 present form dates from the time of the viceroy Don Pedro de To- 
 ledo (1532-53). The name is due to its oval shape. 
 
 William I. began to erect the fort in 1154, but the completion of his 
 design fell to Frederick II., who used the edifice as a place of safety for 
 his wives and treasures. Charles I. enlarged the castle and frequently re- 
 sided there. Robert the Wise (1309) caused the chapel to be adorned with 
 frescoes by Giotto , and superintended the work in person, but of these 
 no trace is left. Here Charles III. of Durazzo (1381) kept Queen Johanna I. 
 prisoner, and was himself besieged. In 1495 Charles VIII. of France cap- 
 tured the castle, and under Ferdinand II. it was dismantled. It is now 
 chiefly used as a prison. 
 
 Farther on we reach S. Lucia (PI. E, 7, 6), once a dirty street, 
 but enlarged and converted into a broad and pleasant quay since 
 1846. Scenes of Neapolitan life may be witnessed here in per- 
 fection. The female members of the community are seen working 
 in the open air, going through their toilette, and performing 
 various unpleasing acts of attention to their children , regardless 
 of the public gaze. In warm weather the children often run about 
 quite naked. On the side next the sea the oyster-stalls are 
 established , where sea - urchins , crabs , and other delicacies , so 
 expressively called frutti di mare by the Neapolitans, are also 
 sold. The focus of this animated scene, however, is on the 
 Promontory below, which is reached by a flight of steps, and is 
 adorned with a ^Fountain with figures by Domenico d J Auria and 
 Giovanni da Nola. On fine summer evenings , especially on 
 Sundays , this spot is densely crowded , and presents a highly 
 characteristic picture of Neapolitan life. There is also a favourite 
 sulphureous spring here (p. 29). Adjoining the promontory is 
 the small harbour whence the steamers for Capri start (p. 157). 
 
 At the N. end of S. Lucia is a handsome fountain, whence we 
 ascend to the left by the Strada del Oigante, a street named 
 after an ancient colossal statue of Jupiter once placed here. To 
 the right, farther on, we look down on the stores of cannon and 
 ammunition in the courts of the arsenal (p. 39). In a straight di- 
 rection we observe Fort S. Elmo, rising above the town, and we 
 soon reach the finest square in Naples. 
 
 This is the Largo del Palazzo Reale , or the Piazza del Plebis- 
 cite (PI. E, 6) as it has been called since 1860, which assumed its 
 present form in 1810, after the demolition of four monasteries. On 
 
 3* 
 
36 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. S. Francesco di Paola. 
 
 the right is the Royal Palace, opposite to us is the Foresteria, now 
 the Prefettura di Napoli (PI. 17), with shops in part of the ground- 
 floor; on the 'W. side, which forms a semicircle, is the church 
 of S. Francesco with its dome and arcades ; on the fourth side is 
 the Commandant’s Residence (PI. 77), formerly the palace of the 
 prince of Salerno, where travellers obtain a permesso to visit the 
 Castel S. Elmo on showing their passports or visiting-cards. (As- 
 cend two flights of stairs on the left side of the court, and turn to 
 the right at the top ; best hours between 10 and 11 or between 12 
 and 2 o’clock.) In front of the church of S. Francesco are two 
 Equestrian Statues of Neapolitan kings: on the right Charles III., 
 on the left Ferdinand I. of Bourbon; the two horses and the 
 statue of Charles are by Canova , that of Ferdinand, in a Roman 
 toga, by Cal). 
 
 S. Francesco di Paola (PI. 48; E, 6), an imitation of the Pan- 
 theon at Rome, was constructed by Ferdinand I. from designs of 
 P. Bianchi in 1817-31. The Ionic vestibule is supported by six 
 columns and two buttresses. 
 
 The Interior (open early in the morning) contains thirty Corinthian 
 columns of marble from Mondragone, which support the dome. The high 
 altar, transferred hither from the church of the Apostles, is entirely inlaid 
 with jasper and lapis lazuli ; the two pillars at the sides are of rare Egyptian 
 breccia from S. Severino. The tribune above is for the use of the royal family. 
 The statues and pictures are by modern masters. To the left of the entrance : 
 St. Athanasius by Angelo Salaro; Death of Joseph, Camillo Guerra of Naples ; 
 St. Augustin, a statue by Tommaso Arnaud of Naples; Madonna della Con- 
 cezione, Casparo Landi ; St. Mark, a statue by Fabris of Venice; St. Nicho- 
 las, Natale Carta of Sicily; St. John, a statue by Tenerani. In the choir: 
 St. Francis di Paola resuscitating a youth, Camuccini; St. Matthew, a statue 
 by Finelli; Last Communion of St. Francis of Castile, Pietro Benvenuti of 
 Florence ; St. Luke, a statue by Antonio Cali of Sicily ; St. Ambrose, by Tito 
 Angelini of Naples; Death of St. Andrea da Avellino , Tommaso de Vivo ; 
 St. Chrysostom, a statue by Gennaro Cali. 
 
 The Palazzo Reale (PL 21; E, 6), or royal palace, designed 
 by the Roman Domenico Fontana , was begun in 1600 under the 
 viceroy Count de Lemos , burned down in 1837, and restored 
 between that year and 1841. The facade, 185 yds. ft. in length, 
 exhibits in its three stories the Doric and Ionic styles combin- 
 ed ; most of the arches of the basement , however , are built up 
 for the sake of increasing the strength of the building. 
 
 Interior. Visitors apply to the porter (50 c.), who conducts them to 
 the office of the Intendant in the palace (11-1). Here they receive (gratis) a 
 permesso for six persons, which is available also for the palaces of Capodi- 
 monte, Caserta, Favorita, Quisisana, and the garden of Astroni, and must 
 be shown at each place to the porter. Attendant’s fee 1 fr. 
 
 The visitor is first conducted to the * Garden Terrace , which affords 
 a fine view of the harbour and the arsenal immediately below. In the 
 centre is a handsome marble table. — The magnificent ' Grand Staircase , 
 constructed entirely of white marble, and adorned with reliefs and sta- 
 tues, dates from 1651. — On the side towards the piazza are situated a. 
 small Theatre and a superb Dining Room , in the centre of which is placed 
 an ornamental cradle presented by the city of Naples to the present queen 
 Margaret in 1869. — Beyond these is the Throne Room , gorgeously fur- 
 nished with crimson velvet embroidered with gold, the embroidery liav*» 
 
Piazza del Municipio . NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 3 l 
 
 ing been executed at the ^extensive poor-house in 1818. Above are gilded 
 figures in relief, representing the different provinces of tbe kingdom. — 
 The rooms also contain large porcelain vases from Sevres and from tbe 
 former manufactory at Capodimonte, an antique bust of Bacchus, a small 
 bust of Hercules, and a bust of Marcus Aurelius, all found at Hercula- 
 neum, and lastly a number of pictures. Among the last are: ''Titian, Pier 
 Luigi Farnese (1547)* Scliidone , Carita; Lod. Carracci , John the Baptist $ 
 Guercino , St. Joseph; M. Caravaggio , Christ in the Temple, Betrothal of 
 St. Catharine, Orpheus; L. Giordano , The archangel Gabriel. There are 
 also several works by Netherlandish masters: Quintin Massys (?), Usurer; 
 
 ' Van Dyck , Portrait; two good portraits, by unknown masters, etc. The 
 Adoration of the Magi, sometimes ascribed to Jan van Eyck and sometimes 
 to Donzelli , a supposed pupil of Zingaro, was once considered a very im- 
 portant work, but has been treated slightingly by modern criticism. The 
 pictures by modern Italian masters are of no great merit*. 
 
 On the N. side of the palace, which is connected here by a wing 
 with the Theatre of S. Carlo, is a small garden enclosed by a 
 railing, containing a Statue of Italia , erected in 1864 in comme- 
 moration of the plebiscite of 21st Oct., 1860, which added the 
 kingdom of Naples to the dominions of Victor Emmanuel. 
 
 The small piazza which adjoins the Piazza del Plebiscito here 
 is named Largo S. Ferdinando after the opposite church. This is 
 the starting point of several of the chief omnibus lines, and there 
 is also a large cab-stand here. To the left diverge the Strada di 
 Chiaja and the Toledo, the principal street in Naples {comp. p. 41). 
 
 We now turn to the right into the Strada S. Carlo, in which 
 rises the principal facade of the Teatro San Carlo (PI. 26 ; E, 6), 
 founded by Charles III. in 1737, and erected by the Neapolitan 
 architect Angelo Carasale from designs by the Sicilian Giovanni 
 Medrano. The interior was destroyed by fire in 1816, but has 
 been restored in harmony with the original plan. It is one of the 
 largest opera-houses in Italy, and the choicest works of the best 
 Italian composers are admirably performed here. Many of the cele- 
 brated compositions of Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti, and Mercadante 
 were performed in this theatre for the first time. The chief fa- 
 cade , resting on an arcade , and surmounted by a series of co- 
 lumns, and the side next the Largo S. Ferdinando are decorated 
 with reliefs. The spaces under the arches are occupied by public 
 writers, ready at a moment’s notice to commit to paper the plead- 
 ing of the lover or the expostulation of the creditor. 
 
 Farther to the right is the small garden belonging to the palace, 
 at the entrance of which are two Horse-tamers by Baron Clodt of 
 St. Petersburg, presented by the Emp. Nicholas of Russia, and 
 replicas of those in front of the palace at Berlin. 
 
 We next reach the long Piazza del Municipio (PI. E, 5), 
 adorned with pleasant grounds, formerly named Largo del Castello. 
 At the end of it, to the left, is situated the handsome Muni- 
 cipio (PI. 20), or town hall, formerly the Pa lazzo de J Minister i, 
 erected in 1819-25 from designs by Luigi and Stefano Gasse. 
 On the principal entrance are inscribed the names of the Neapoli- 
 tans who were executed for sedition under the Bourbon regime. 
 
38 Route 4 . 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Castel Nuovo, 
 
 In the gateway are the statues of the kings Roger and Frederick II. 
 — From this point a passage, occupied by stalls of various wares, 
 leads through, under the flight of steps, to the Toledo; within it, 
 to the right, is the entrance to the Exchange. 
 
 In the N.W. corner of the piazza, immediately adjoining the 
 Municipio, rises the recently restored church of S. Giacomo degli 
 Spagnuoli (PI. 52), erected in 1540 by Don Pedro de Toledo. 
 
 Interior. We enter by a door adjacent to the gate of the Municipio 
 and ascend the stairs. To the right of the entrance: * Andrea del Sarto, 
 Holy Family. 3rd Chapel on the left: Gian Bernardo Lama , descent 
 from the Cross; also pictures by Bernardino Sicilian o , Marco da Siena , 
 and others. At the back of the high altar is the sumptuous Tomb of 
 Don Pedro de Toledo (d. 1553), a work of little artistic merit hy Giovanni 
 da Nola , adorned with statues of the cardinal virtues, reliefs of the achieve- 
 ments of the viceroy, and his statue in a kneeling posture, with that 
 of his wife. Behind this tomb is the monument of Hans Walther von 
 Hiernheim, counsellor and general of Charles V. and Philip II. (d. 1557), 
 with an inscription in German and Latin. 
 
 On the opposite side rises the Castel Nuovo (see below) 
 As we turn round to the right towards the Strada del Molo, 
 the broad Strada Medina (PI. E, 5) opens to the left. At the be- 
 ginning of it rises the Fontana Medina (PI. 8), erected from the 
 designs of Domenico d'Auria and Fansaga by the viceroy, Duke 
 of Medina Celi (1695), and considered the finest fountain in 
 Naples. It consists of a large basin, supported by four satyrs; in 
 the centre Neptune with his trident, surrounded by jets of water; 
 at the base four Tritons on sea-horses, with water-spouting lions 
 and other animals. — The neighbouring church of the Incoronata, 
 and a walk thence into the interior of the city, see p. 46 et seq. 
 
 Following the Strada del Molo towards the harbour , we 
 observe on the left the Teatro del Fondo (or Mercadante , PI. 29) 
 and various show-booths , with tempting representations on canvas 
 of the charms of the interior. On the right is the Castel Nuovo. 
 
 The Castel Nuovo (PI. E, 5, 6) was begun in 1283 by Charles I. 
 of Anjou from a design attributed to Giovanni da Pisa , and exe- 
 cuted in the French fortification style of that period. The kings 
 of the houses of Anjou and Arragon , and the Spanish viceroys 
 successively resided here. Alphonso I. (1442) added five round 
 towers, and the castle was enlarged by Don Pedro de Toledo (1546) 
 and Charles III. (1735). Part of the fortifications was condemned 
 to demolition in 1862, as it held a threatening attitude towards 
 the city. 
 
 The Entrance is opposite the Strada del Gastello. Passing the sentry, 
 we turn to the right, and then to the left. After a few hundred paces 
 we reach the entrance to the fortifications strictly so called, which con- 
 sists of a lofty "Triumphal Arch between two round towers (one of which 
 partly fell in 1876), erected in 1470 to commemorate the entry of Alphonso 
 of Arragon (2nd June, 1442), probably by Pietro di Martino , a Milanese 
 arc hitect , assisted, according to Vasari, by Giuliano da Maiano of Flo- 
 rence. This is t lie linest monument at Naples. It consists of an arch- 
 way with Corinthian columns on each side, now partly built into the 
 wall, a frieze, and a cornice, above which is an attic with well exe- 
 
Harbours. ^NAPLES. 4. Route. 39 
 
 cuted sculpture representing the entry of Alphonso , by Isaia da Pisa 
 and Silvestro dell ' Aquila. Above are statues of St. Michael, St. An- 
 tonius Abbas, and St. Sebastian (half destroyed), below which are the 
 four cardinal virtues in niches. The bronze doors are adorned with re- 
 •presentations of the victories of Ferdinand I. , by Guglielmo Monaco. A 
 cannon-ball imbedded in the masonry of the left wing is a reminiscence 
 •of the wars of the time of Gonsalvo da Cordova. 
 
 In the inner barrack-yard rises the church of S. Barbara, or S, Se- 
 bastiano (custodian to the right, outside thq triumphal arch, No. 223-, 
 1/2 fr.), with a Corinthian facade by Giuliano da Maiano , and a beautiful 
 Madonna in relief above the door. The Adoration of the Magi formerly 
 preserved here is now in the palace (p. 37). — A dark spiral staircase 
 of 25 steps adjoining the sacristy ascends to a Loggia , where we enjoy 
 an excellent survey of the government docks and the harbour. 
 
 A covered gallery connecting the fort with the palace is destined for 
 use in case of any sudden emergency or rebellion. 
 
 The continuation of the Strada del Molo is formed by the Molo , 
 a pier 14 yds. in width, originally constructed by Charles of Anjou 
 in 1302, adjoining which are the extensive Harbours (PI. F, 6, 5), 
 the Porto Militare being on the right and the Porto Mercantile on 
 the left. On the right, at the beginning of the Molo, is the royal 
 Arsenate di Marina , erected in 1577 by the viceroy Mendoza , with 
 a dockyard, arsenal, etc. The neighbouring Porto Militare, or go- 
 vernment harbour, shut off by a railing, was begun by Francis 1. 
 in 1826. On the S. side it is protected by a strong breakwater, 
 which extends 429 yds. into the sea in a S.E. direction, and it 
 is 5 fathoms in depth. A number of men-of-war of the Italian navy 
 are frequently stationed here. 
 
 The mercantile harbour , the Porto Mercantile or Porto 
 Orande , was constructed in 1302 by Charles II. of Anjou at the 
 same time as the Molo, and enlarged by Charles III. in 1740. 
 It presents an animated and busy scene, characteristic of a southern 
 climate. An excursion on the bay, to which the boatmen invite 
 foot-passengers, is very enjoyable in fine weather (bargaining 
 necessary; comp. p. 25). 
 
 At the angle formed by the Molo rises the Lighthouse ( Lanterna ; 
 PI. F, 5), originally erected in the 15th cent., but rebuilt in 
 1843. The ascent is strongly recommended, as it enables the vis- 
 itor to form an accurate idea of the topography of the town 
 (fee 1 fr.). An easy marble staircase of 142 steps ascends to 
 the gallery. — The Molo is terminated by a battery. 
 
 The handsome quay called the Strada del Piliero skirts the 
 mercantile harbour. Adjoining the latter , and connected with it 
 by a channel under the street , is the Porto Piccolo , which is 
 now almost entirely choked with sand, and is accessible to small 
 boats only. This once formed part of the most ancient harbour of 
 Palaeopolis. The Dogana Nuova is situated here. To the right, at 
 the end of the Molo Piccolo is situated the Jrmnacolatella with 
 the offices of the custom-house and the Sanitd (PI. 24). Straight 
 before us, opposite the Strada del Piliero, rises a fountain, erected 
 in 1870. Adjoining the Immacolatella is the quay at which tra- 
 
40 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES* 8. Maria del Carmine . 
 
 vellers arriving at Naples by sea disembark. This is also the start- 
 ing-point of the Ischia steamers (see p. 106 ; hours of departure for 
 Ischia and Capri to be learned at the office, Strada Nuova 14). 
 
 The first side-street to the left leads straight to 'the church of S, 
 Pietro Martire (PL 70; F, 4), which contains a few monuments and pic- 
 tures (Legend of St. Vincent, a good work in the Flemish-Neapolitan style). 
 
 The last street but one to the left before S. Pietro is reached leads 
 into the Strada di Porto , a scene of the most motley hustle and confusion, 
 especially towards evening. Vendors of fish, meat, maccaroni, and re- 
 freshments of all kinds cook their delicacies in the open street, and 
 attract numerous customers. As this moreover is the dirtiest quarter of 
 the town, the fumes which arise are intensely ‘ancient and fishlike 1 . 
 
 We continue to follow the broad quay of the Strada Nuova 
 (PI. F, G, 4), which is embellished with flower-beds and is always 
 full of life and bustle. The fishermen and boat-men, with their 
 Phrygian caps and their sunburnt and often handsome features, are 
 the modern representatives of the Lazzaroni , a class which has long 
 been the especial favourite of novelists , but which may now be 
 considered as extinct. The name, derived from the Lazarus of 
 the Bible, dates from the time of the Spanish viceroys, and was 
 applied to the homeless and half-naked Neapolitans who preferred 
 begging to work. At the present day, however, the lower classes, 
 setting aside the fraternity which preys on travellers, are remark- 
 able for their industry and frugality. 
 
 About 10 min. walk beyond the Porto Piccolo we reach the 
 Porta del Carmine , adjoining which, and forming the E. extremity 
 of the town, rises the Castel del Carmine , a vast structure erected 
 by Ferdinand I. in 1484. In 1647 during the rebellipn of Masa- 
 niello (p. 171) it was occupied by the populace. It was afterwards 
 fortified, and is now used as barracks and a military prison. 
 
 The Porta del Carmine leads to a piazza, in which, on the 
 right, is situated the church of *S. Maria del Carmine (PI. 59; 
 G, 4) with its lofty tower. The edifice, which is of early origin, but 
 was modernised in 1769, contains the tomb of Conradin, the last 
 of the Hohenstaufen. 
 
 The tomb was originally behind the high altar, to the right, bearing 
 the simple inscription R. C. C. (Regis Conradini corpus). In 1847 Maxi- 
 milian II. of Bavaria, when Crown-prince, caused a "Statue, by Schopf of 
 Munich, from a design by Thorvaldsen, to be erected in the nave of the 
 church to the memory of Conradin (horn in 1252). The pedestal bears a 
 German inscription to the effect that — ‘Maximilian, Crown-prince of 
 Bavaria, erected this monument to a scion of his house, King Conradin, 
 the last of the Hohenstaufen 1 . The two reliefs represent the parting of 
 Conradin from his mother , the Princess Elizabeth , and his separation 
 from Frederick of Baden at the place of execution. Beneath this monu- 
 ment now lie the remains of the unfortunate prince. The whole is well 
 executed, and, placed as it is, most impressive. — To the right of the 
 entrance is a block of marble , beneath which the remains of Masaniello 
 are said to repose; the monument which formerly marked the spot is 
 now in the museum. 
 
 We now turn to the left to the Piazza del Mercato (PI. G, 4), 
 in the centre of which rises a new covered Market, constructed chief- 
 ly of iron , where the traffic is busiest on Mondays and Fridays. 
 
Piazza de Martin. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route . 41 
 
 The flsh-market is interesting. On the N. side of the piazza, which 
 forms a semicircle, is the church of S. Croce al Mercato. On the 
 S. side are two fountains. On 29th Oct. 1268, Conradin, the last 
 scion of his princely house, then in his 18th year, and his relation 
 Frederick of Baden, were executed here by order of Charles I. of 
 Anjou. The sacristy of the church of S. Croce contains a column 
 of porphyry which formerly marked the spot where the young prince 
 was beheaded. It bears a derisive inscription , alluding to Gio- 
 vanni Frangipani, Count of Astura, with whom Conradin sought 
 refuge after the battle of Tagliacozzo, and who betrayed him to 
 Charles of Anjou: — 
 
 Asturis ungue leo pullum rapiens aquilinum 
 Hie deplumavit acepliahimque dedit. 
 
 This piazza was also one of the scenes of the insurrection of 
 Masaniello. — The traveller is recommended not to attempt to 
 penetrate farther into the town from this point. — Returning to the 
 church del Carmine, and following the street to the left, we may 
 reach the Porta Capuana (p. 53) in 8 min. ; or we may pass the 
 church and proceed in a straight direction to the small Piazza 
 Garibaldi , and turn to the left into the broad, new Cor so Garibaldi , 
 which begins near the coast, passes (5 min.) the Porta Nolana, the 
 railway-station, and (5 min.) the Porta Capuana, and terminates 
 in the Strada Forla (see p. 45). 
 
 II. The Toledo. Capodimonte. 
 
 Starting from the Largo della Yittoria (p. 34; PL D, 6), the 
 broad Strada S. Caterina, with its handsome shops, leads us 
 towards the N. to the triangular Piazza de’ Martiri, where the 
 Colonna de’ Martiri (PL D, 6), a lofty column of marble decorated 
 with trophies, and crowned with a Victory in bronze, was erected 
 in 1864 to the memory of the patriots who have perished during the 
 different Neapolitan revolutions. The four lions at the base, in 
 different postures, represent the four principal revolutions at Naples 
 during the Bourbon. dynasty (1799, 1820, 1848, 1860). The monu- 
 ment was designed by Alvino , the Victory executed by Caggiani. 
 
 To the left in the piazza is the Palazzo Miranda (PI. 19), 
 erected in 1780 by Barba , now the property of the Princess of 
 Ottajano , daughter of the Duchess of Miranda, containing pictures 
 by Spagnoletto, Guido Reni, Rubens, and others. (Visitors ad- 
 mitted daily, 12-2, on presenting their visiting-cards; attendant 
 1 fr., porter 50 c.) 
 
 We next enter the busy Strada di Chiaja (PL D, E, 6). 
 Where this street begins to ascend, it is crossed by the Ponte 
 di Chiaja , a viaduct built in 1634, by which the Strada Monte 
 di Dio leads from the quarter of Pizzofalcone to the higher 
 ground below S. Elmo. (The flight of steps on the right, between 
 the buttresses of the bridge, ascends from the Strada di Chiaja to 
 
42 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Toledo. 
 
 the Strada M. di Dio.) The Str. di Chiaja, which contains nothing 
 noteworthy, leads into the Toledo opposite the Teatro S. Carlo. 
 
 The ^Toledo , a street begun by the viceroy Don Pedro de 
 Toledo in 1540, but since the autumn of 1870 officially known 
 as the Via di Roma , gih Toledo , is the main artery of the traffic 
 of Naples, and presents a busy scene at all hours. It intersects 
 the city from S. to N. nearly in a straight line, ascending gradually 
 from the sea. It extends from the Piazza del Plebiseito (p. 35) 
 to the Museo Nazionale, beyond which its prolongation is formed 
 by the Strada Nuova di Capodimonte, and is nearly D /2 M. in 
 length, but contains no building worthy of note. On both sides 
 extends a network of streets and lanes, ifiany of which ascend to 
 the left by means of steps to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the 
 Castel S. Elmo, while those to the right extend to the railway and 
 the harbour, forming the centres of mercantile traffic. 
 
 Ascending the Toledo from the Largo S. Ferdinando, we come 
 in about 10 min. to the small Largo della Carita (PI. E, 4, 5), 
 where in 1877 was erected a Monument to Carlo Poerio (d. 1867), 
 the dauntless Italian patriot whose unjust condemnation and im- 
 prisonment in 1850 did so much to inflame the hate of the people 
 for the Bourbon dynasty. To the right diverges a street to the 
 Piazza Montoliveto (p. 47 ; post-office, see p. 47). 
 
 Farther on, to the right, at the corner of the Strada S. Trinita 
 Maggiore (p. 48), the only important side-street by which the To- 
 ledo is crossed, rises the Palazzo Maddaloni (PI. 18; entrance in 
 the Str. Maddaloni), now let to the Bank of Naples , a massive 
 structure with a gateway and staircase from designs by Fansaga. 
 The interior contains a hall of fine proportions. Adjacent, separated 
 by a cross-street, at the corner of the Toledo and the Strada Anna 
 de ’ Lombardi , is the Palazzo d'Angri (PI. 12), erected about 1773 
 by Luigi Vanvitelli , and occupied by Garibaldi when dictator in 
 1860. The picture gallery it formerly contained has been sold. 
 
 In 10 min. more we reach the recently enlarged Piazza Dante 
 (PI. E, 4), formerly the Largo del Mercatello ,. where a Monument 
 of Dante in marble , by T. Angelini and Solari, was erected in 
 1872. The crescent-shaped edifice, beyond the statue, which was 
 converted into a Liceo Qinnasiale Vittorio Emanuele in 1861, sur- 
 mounted by a balustrade with twenty-six statues, was erected by 
 the city of Naples in honour of Charles III. in 1757, the statues 
 being emblems of the virtues of that monarch. — Adjacent, to the 
 left, is the Porta Alba , erected in 1632, embellished with a bronze 
 statue of S. Gaetano, whence the Strada de’ Tribunali may be 
 entered (see pp. 55-58). 
 
 Leaving the Piazza Dante , and passing a row of houses re- 
 cently erected, we ascend gradually in 5 min. by the Salita del 
 Museo to the Museo Nazionale , a large red building , the en- 
 trance to which is in the broad side- street diverging to the 
 
Catacombs. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 43 
 
 right to the Piazza Cavour (see p. 59). Opposite the entrance, 
 on the right, are several large new buildings, now nearly com- 
 pleted, and among them a Bazaar , with spacious show-rooms, de- 
 signed by Alvino. 
 
 The continuation of the Toledo beyond the Museum is formed 
 by the Strada Nuova di Capodimonte, which gradually ascends. 
 From the beginning of this street, opposite the N.W. corner of 
 the Museum, the Strada dell’ Infrascata or Salvator Rosa diverges 
 to the left, ascending to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. 87) 
 and the hill of Posilipo (p. 90). We follow the Strada di Capo- 
 dimonte , and in about 10 min. cross the Ponte della Sanita , a 
 viaduct constructed in 1809 across the quarter della Sanitk which 
 lies below. 
 
 Descending to the left immediately beyond the bridge , and 
 from the lower end of the street entering the winding Strada 
 S. Genndro de' Poveri to the right, we soon reach the large hospice 
 or poor-house of that name, which contains several hundred in- 
 mates. At the back of the building is the church of S. Genndro 
 (St. Januarius), with the entrance to the extensive Catacombs 
 (PI. 4; D, 2) of Naples, admission to which is obtained by apply- 
 ing to the porter of the hospice (1 fr. for each person, and trifling 
 fee to the attendant). 
 
 The church of S. Gennaro dei Poveri , founded in the 8th cent, on the 
 site of a chapel where St. Januarius was interred, is now completely 
 modernised. The vestibule of the inner court is embellished with 
 "Frescoes from the history of the saint by Andrea da Salerno (?), unfor- 
 tunately in bad preservation. The only entrance to the Catacombs is 
 now at the back of this church. They consist of four main galleries, of 
 which, however, two only are now connected by staircases and accessible 
 to visitors, together with a long series of lateral passages and burial 
 chambers ( cubicula ). Along the walls are excavated niches of three dif- 
 ferent forms, ranged in rows one above another. A few of the chambers 
 lie below the level of the galleries. The oldest part of the catacombs 
 dates from the first century of our era. In point of architecture they far 
 surpass the Roman, though inferior in every other respect. The two 
 large ante-chambers were used for the religious services customary at an 
 interment. 
 
 Information as to the history and decorations of these early Christian 
 burial-places will be found in the Handbook for Central Italy. The in- 
 scriptions found here have been placed in the Museum. Among the 
 paintings may be mentioned the pleasing decorations of the two ante- 
 rooms, which recall the Pompeian style, a figure of the Good Shepherd 
 in the first gallery, the portraits on the tomb of Theoctecnus (beginning 
 of the 4th cent.) in the second gallery, and a figure of Christ of the 5th 
 or 6th cent, (but frequently retouched) in the so-called Basilica di S. Gen- 
 naro. The bones which fill many of the chambers and corridors are 
 generally those of victims of the plagues which ravaged Naples in the 
 16th century. The Priapus column with the Hebrew inscription is a 
 mediaeval hoax. 
 
 There is another series of catacombs, of the 5th and 6th cent., beneath 
 the church of S. Maria della Sanita, below the bridge of that name. 
 
44 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. Pal. di Capodimonte. 
 
 Beyond the Ponte della Sanita, the Strada di Capodimonte 
 (passing a brewery with a garden on the right) leads in a few 
 minutes to a circular space called the Tondo di Capodimonte 
 (PI. E, 1 ; ordinary cab-fares thus far). The road now describes 
 a long curve to the left. Walkers ascend the steps, and at the 
 top follow the road to the right. (The road which here goes on 
 to the left leads round the park of Capodimonte and unites with 
 the Capua road near Secondigliano.) From the Tondo di Capo- 
 dimonte to the palace is a walk of 7 minutes. 
 
 The royal Palazzo di Capodimonte (PI. 14; permesso procured 
 at the Pal. Reale; attendant 1 fr. ; porter t/ 2 fr.), situated above 
 the town to the N. on the eminence of that name, was begun 
 in 1738 by Charles III., but not completed till 1834-39 in the 
 reign of Ferdinand II. The edifice was designed by Medrano , 
 the architect of the Teatro S. Carlo. The gardens, which are 
 partly laid out in the English style, are unfortunately destitute 
 of water. Beautiful views. 
 
 The palace contains the so-called royal Museo di Capodimonte, an 
 extensive, but not very valuable collection of pictures, chiefly by modern 
 Neapolitan masters, and of modern sculptures, distributed throughout 
 the different apartments (catalogue 1 fr.). The following are worthy of 
 mention: Hackert , Wild- boar hunt in the Bosco di Persano ; Chase of 
 wild fowl on the Lago Fusaro, by the same; Lemasle , Marriage of the 
 Duchesse de Berry ; Camuccini , Death of Caesar ; Gelentano , Benvenuto Cel- 
 lini at the Castel S. Angelo; Hayez , Ulysses and Alcinous; a table with 
 ancient mosaic from Pompeii; Marinelli , Cleopatra at her toilet; Virginia 
 Lebrun , Portraits of the Duchess of Parma and Maria Theresa; Angelica 
 Kaufmann , Ferdinand I. and his consort with their children. — The 
 palace also contains a collection of porcelain from the former manufac- 
 tory of Capodimonte and a valuable collection of armour ( Armenia ), for- 
 merly preserved in the Pal. Reale. Among the objects of interest here 
 are the ancient accoutrements of kings Roger and Ferdinand I., of 
 Alexander Farnese, and of Victor Amadeus of Savoy; also the sword 
 presented by Ferdinand I. to the gallant Scanderbeg. 
 
 Near Capodimonte are the villas Meuricoffre (PI. E, 1 ; generally 
 open on presentation of the visitor’s card), Ruffo , Avelli , and 
 Forquetj commanding fine views in all directions. 
 
 To the W., opposite Capodimonte, stands the Villa Regina 
 Isabella , or Villa Gallo (PI. D, 1), founded in 1809 by the Duca 
 di Gallo, afterwards the property of the queen from whom it 
 derives its name, and now that of her second husband the Conte 
 del Balzo. The summit commands a remarkably fine prospect of 
 the city and bay. 
 
 Pleasant walk from the Villa Gallo through the valley between Ca- 
 maldoli and the Vomero to the Lago d’Agnano, or to the left to Fuori- 
 grotta and to the Bagnoli road on the coast. Comp. Map, p. 96. — If on 
 leaving the park of Capodimonte we turn to the left, we may proceed by 
 the outskirts of the city to the Campo tianto outside the Porta Capuana , 
 an excursion best made by carriage. A visit to the palace and grounds, 
 and to the cemetery, will take about 5 hrs. in all. (Two-horse carr. 
 5-6 fr.) 
 
 Following the road opposite the entrance to the park of Capodi- 
 monte, and after a few minutes turning to the left, we reach the 
 
Observatory. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 45 
 
 Observatory (Osservatorio Reale , PL E, 1, 2), occupying the summit 
 of the hill. It is popularly called LaSpecola, or, after the villa of a 
 Spanish marquis which once stood here, Miradois. The observatory 
 was founded in 1812, and enlarged in 1820 from plans by the 
 celebrated Piazzi (d. 1826), under whom it attained a European 
 reputation. The present director, Comm, de Gasparis , has distin- 
 guished himself by the discovery of several planetoids. — On the 
 way to the observatory a path descends in steps past the church de* 
 Miracoli to the Strada Foria (see below). 
 
 Farther off, at the base of Capodimonte, are visible the remains of 
 the Aqua Julia , now called Ponti Rossi , the great aqueduct constructed 
 by Augustus. One branch supplied the city of Naples, the other crossed 
 the Vomero to the right, whence several ramifications diverged, some to 
 the villas on the Posilipo, another by Monte Olibano to Baiee and Mise- 
 num, where it terminated in the Piscina Mirabilis (p. 103). 
 
 The broad transverse street diverging from the Toledo to the 
 right (E.) by the Museum (pp. 42, 43) leads first to the large 
 Piazza Cavour (PL E, 3), formerly the Largo delle Pigne , em- 
 bellished with gardens. Farther on, the street takes the name of 
 Strada Foria. The first street diverging from it to the right is the 
 new Via del Duomo, leading to the cathedral (4 min. ; p. 57); the 
 Via Carbonara next diverges on the same side to S. Giovanni a 
 Carbonara (p. 54) and^the Porta Capuana; and the new Corso Gari- 
 baldi farther on also leads to the right to the same gate (10 min. ; 
 
 p. 53). 
 
 On the left side of the Strada Foria we next reach the Botanic 
 Garden , which was founded in 1809 and extended in 1818. It is 
 open to the public daily, except from 12 to 2, and contains a fine 
 collection of tropical plants. — Adjacent is the extensive poor- 
 house, the Albergo de* Poverty or Reclusorio , begun by Charles III. 
 in 1751 from a design by Fuga, and intended to contain four courts, 
 still nearly half uncompleted. One side is appropriated to men, 
 the other to women. In this establishment and its dependencies 
 about 5000 persons are maintained. The city contains numerous 
 other charitable institutions , about sixty in all , most of which 
 are amply endowed. — Tramway and omnibuses, see p. 25. 
 
 III. The Old Town. E. Quarters between the 
 Toledo and the Harbour. 
 
 Naples contains about, three hundred Churches, most of which are 
 devoid of interest. The older of them have been disfigured by restora- 
 tion in the degraded style of the 17th and 18th centuries, which appears 
 to have attained its highest perfection here. But , as they contain nu- 
 merous monuments, important in the history of sculpture, and are rich 
 in historical and political associations, some of them are well deserving 
 of a visit. The most important are described in the following pages. They 
 are generally closed about noon, and not re-opened till evening. 
 
 We begin qur walk in the Strata Medina (PL E, 5), by the 
 
46 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 8. Mjaria la Nuova. 
 
 fountain mentioned at p. 38. To the left of this point, adjoining 
 No. 49 , is a railing enclosing a flight of steps which descend to 
 the church of the — 
 
 *Incoronata (PI. 56 ; open in the morning), erected in 1352 by 
 Johanna I. to commemorate her coronation and marriage with her 
 cousin Louis of Taranto, and made to include the old chapel of 
 the Palais de Justice in which the marriage had been solemnised. 
 
 This chapel contains admirable * Frescoes , formerly attributed to Giotto % 
 but probably by one of his pupils or imitators (much darkened and in- 
 jured; best seen from a platform to the left near the entrance to the 
 church ; keys at the sacristy, 5-6 soldi). They represent the ‘Seven Sacra- 
 ments and the Church 1 . In the arch over the right window, on the right 
 is the ‘Triumph of the Church 1 , with portraits of King Robert and his 
 son Charles, attired in purple, on the left the Extreme Unction. The next 
 arch to the right comprises: (1.) Baptism, (r.) Confirmation; then (1.) the 
 Eucharist, and (r.) Confession; and on the other side, (1.) Ordination, (r.) 
 Matrimony. The last refers to the marriage above mentioned, which did 
 not take place till 1347, eleven years after Giotto’s death. Two half- 
 figures in ‘Baptism 1 , one of which is crowned with laurel, are said to re- 
 present Petrarch and Laura, and in ‘Matrimony 1 Dante’s features are said to 
 be recognisable. The Chapel of the Crucifix , at the end of the left aisle, 
 also contains frescoes in Giotto’s style, ascribed to Gennaro di Cola , a 
 pupil of Maestro Simone : to the left are represented the Coronation of 
 Johanna I., her nuptials, and other events in her life; to the right St. 
 Martin, St. George, battles, etc., all much damaged. 
 
 The church contains numerous votive offerings for recovery from sick- 
 ness and the perils of childbirth. 
 
 Opposite the church is situated the Palazzo Fondi designed 
 by Luigi Vanvitelli , and containing a picture-gallery (shown by 
 special permission of the prince only). In front of it is a statue 
 of Fr. Sav . Mercadante (d. 1870), the composer of several operas. 
 
 At the end of the Strada Medina we enter the busy Strada 
 S. Giuseppe to the left. After a few minutes’ walk, a broad street 
 to the right leads to the church of S. Maria la Nuova (PI. 61 ; 
 E, 5), which is approached by a flight of steps. It was erected in 
 1268 by Giovanni da Pisa , and restored in 1599 by Agnolo Franco, 
 
 Interior. The ceiling is adorned with frescoes by Santafede and 
 Simone Papa the youuger, and the dome with others by Corenzio (the four 
 Franciscan teachers S. Bonaventura, Duns Scotus, Nicolaus de Lira, and 
 Alexander ab Alexandro). 
 
 In the 1st Chap, to the right, the ‘Archangel Michael 1 , formerly ascribed 
 to Michael Angelo. 3rd Chap. : Crucifixion, Marco da Siena. In the Chap, 
 del Crocefisso frescoes by Corenzio. — The right transept contains the monu- 
 ment of Galeazzo Sanseverino (d. 1467), with sculptures of the 15th 
 century. In the opposite chapel is a beautiful crucifix in wood by Gio- 
 vanni da Nola. — At the high altar is a Madonna in wood by Tornmaso 
 de 1 Stefani , with saints by A. Borghetti. — The large Chapel to the left 
 of the entrance to the church was erected in 1604 by Gonsalvo da Cor- 
 dova, ‘il gran capitano 1 , whose nephew Ferdinand placed on each side 
 of the altar the monuments of his two most distinguished enemies: Pietro 
 Navarro (who strangled himself when a prisoner in the Castello Nuovo.) 
 and Lautrec, a Frenchman, the general of Francis I. (who died of the 
 plague in 1528, while besieging Naples). The monuments are attributed 
 to Giov. da Nola or his pupils. The inscriptions, composed by Paolo Giovio , 
 testify to the chivalrous sentiments of that period. 
 
 The adjoining Monastery possesses two sets of Cloisters with tomb- 
 stones, and is adorned with frescoes by unknown masters. 
 
Monte Oliveto. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 47 
 
 We now return and pursue our route along the Str. Giuseppe, 
 of which the Strada Montoliveto forms the continuation. Where 
 the latter expands into a square, on the right stands the Palazzo 
 Gravina, now the General Post and Telegraph Office (PL 23; E, 4), 
 erected about 1500 by Ferdinando Orsini, Duca di Gravina, from 
 designs by Gabriele d J Agnolo. This building, formerly a truly clas- 
 sical edifice, has unfortunately been greatly disfigured by modern 
 improvements , especially since its injury by fire during the revo- 
 lution of 1848. 
 
 Ascending from this point to the left , past a Fountain with 
 a bronze statue of Charles II. (1663), we traverse the Piazza di 
 Montoliveto to the church of *S. Anna de’ Lombardi, or Monte 
 Oliveto (PL 66; E, 4), erected in 1414 by Guerello Origlia, the 
 favourite of King Ladislaus, from designs by Andrea Ciccione. The 
 church is a flat-roofed basilica without aisles, the favourite style of 
 ecclesiastical architecture in the palmy days of Neapolitan art. It 
 contains valuable sculptures ; the chapels are kept shut (sacristan 
 
 72 fr.). 
 
 In the Vestibule, on the left, is the monument of General Giuseppe 
 Trivulzio (d. 1757) ; on the right that of the celebrated architect Do- 
 menico Fontana (d. 1607), who flourished in Rome under Sixtus V. — 
 Cappella Piccolomini (1st on the left) : the "Nativity, a relief by Donatello, 
 or, according to others, by his pupil Antonio Rossellino. Above it, "Danc- 
 ing Angels by Rossellino. The "Monument of Maria of Arragon (d. 1470), 
 natural daughter of Ferdinand I., wife of Antonio Piccolomini, Duke of 
 Amalfi, by Rossellino, is a copy of the monument of the Cardinal of Por- 
 tugal in S. Miniato’s at Florence. Crucifixion, also by Rossellino. The 
 Ascension, a picture by Silvestro de 1 Buoni (ascribed by Sig. Frizzoni to 
 the school of Pinturicchio). — Opposite the sacristy in the Coro dei 
 Frati, containing fine in tarsia work by Giovanni da Verona (d. 1525), 
 restored in 1840 by Minchiotti. — Cappella Mastrogiudici (1st on the 
 right): Annunciation, a relief by Benedetto da Maiano. Several monuments, 
 including that of ‘Marinus Curialis Surrentinus Terrenovse comes 1 , 1490, 
 who founded this chapel. — 5th Chapel on the left: John the Baptist, by 
 Giovanni da Nola. — The Chapel of the Madonna (adjoining the right 
 transept) contains the tombs of Cardinal Pompeo Colonna , viceroy of 
 Naples (d. 1532), and of Charles de Lannoy (d. 1527), general of Charles V. 
 — The adjacent Chapel of the Holt Sepulchre contains a coarsely real- 
 istic "Group in terracotta by Guido Mazzoni , surnamed Modanino (of Mo- 
 dena; d. 1518), representing Christ in the Sepulchre, surrounded by six 
 life-size figures in a kneeling posture , all portraits of contemporaries of 
 the artist: Sannazaro as Joseph of Arimatheea, Pontanus as Nicodemus, 
 Alphonso II. as John, beside him his son Ferdinand. — The Choir con- 
 tains frescoes by Simone Papa the younger. The Sacristy, behind the 
 choir, is adorned with frescoes by Vasari. The monuments of Alphonso II. 
 and Guerello Origlia are by Giovanni da Nola. 
 
 The adjacent building, now occupied by public offices, was 
 formerly a Benedictine monastery, where the poet Tasso was 
 kindly received when ill and in distress in 1588. — The Via 
 di Montoliveto Nuova leads hence to the Toledo (see p. 42). 
 
 Returning to the fountain from which we started, we follow 
 the Calata S. Trinita Maggiore to the Largo S. Trinita Maggiore 
 (PI. E, 4), where a lofty Statue of the Madonna was erected in 1748 
 in the tasteless style of the period. In this piazza is situated 
 
48 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Santa Chiara. 
 
 the church of Gesu Nuovo, or S. Trinith Maggiore (PI. 50), 
 in the form of a Greek cross, built in 1584, containing frescoes 
 by Solimena (History of Heliodorus, over the portal), Stanzioni, 
 Spagnoletto , and Corenzio , and overladen with marble and de- 
 corations. A carpet-warehouse opposite the church, Largo S. Trinita 
 Maggiore 12, contains the old refectory of the former monastery 
 of S. Chiara , where a fine , though damaged, *Fresco by Giotto 
 and his pupils, representing the Miracle of the Loaves, is still pre- 
 served (not very accessible, but admission readily granted, */2 fr-)- 
 
 Beyond the church of Gesu we reach the Strada S. Trinita 
 Maggiore, one of the busiest streets crossing the Toledo (p. 
 42), and turning immediately the right we pass through a gate 
 to *Santa Chiara (PI. 42; E, 4), originally a Gothic church erected 
 by Robert the Wise in 1310, but almost entirely rebuilt by Ma- 
 succio the Younger (?) in 1318, and richly but tastelessly decorated 
 in 1752. At the same time Giotto's frescoes were whitewashed. 
 The church contains handsome Gothic monuments of the Anjou 
 dynasty, and other sculptures. 
 
 The "Interior, 92 yds. long and 35 yds. wide, is lofty and handsome, 
 resembling a magnificent hall. To the left of the principal entrance is 
 the monument of Onofrio di Penna, secretary of King Ladislaus (d. 1322), 
 with a relief of the Madonna and hermits by Bdboccio , converted into an 
 altar. Above are a Madonna enthroned and the Trinity, by Francesco , 
 son of Maestro Simone (about 1300). — In front of the organ, above, are 
 tasteful reliefs from the life of St. Catharine, 14th cent., executed on a 
 dark ground and resembling cameos. — Of the principal paintings on the 
 ceiling, the first, the Queen of Sheba, and the second, David playing on 
 the harp, are by Feb. Conca; the third, David sacrificing, by Bonito; the 
 fourth, S. Clara putting the Saracens to flight, by Francesco di Nura. 
 The last-named master also painted the high altar-piece (the Sacrament) 
 and the picture over the principal entrance (King Robert inspecting the 
 church when building). 
 
 The second chapel on the left contains two sarcophagi: on the right 
 is the tomb of Gabriel Adurini (d. 1572), an admiral under the Emperor 
 Charles V. ; on the left a tomb of the 14th century. — By the 3rd pillar 
 to the left is the altar of the Madonna delle Grazie, with a fresco almost 
 concealed by frippery, attributed to Oiotto. 
 
 Near the side-door which leads out of the church on the left side is 
 the small but graceful monument, cy Giov. da Nola , of Antonia Gaudino, 
 who died in 1530 at the age of 14, on the day appointed for her marriage, 
 with a beautiful epitaph by the poet Antonins Epicurus (d. 1555). The next 
 chapel contains two tombstones of the 14th century. — The Cappella 
 Sanfelice, adjoining the pulpit, which is borne by lions, is adorned with 
 reliefs of the 13th cent, and contains a Crucifixion by Lanfranco , and an 
 ancient sarcophagus with figures of Protesilaus and Laodamia which forms 
 the tomb of Cesare Sanfelice, Duca di Rodi (d. 1632). — The following 
 Cappella Longobardi de la Cruz Ahedo contains on the left side a mon- 
 ument of 1529, and on the right a similar one of 1853. 
 
 At the back of the high altar is the magnificent 'Monument of Robert 
 the Wise (d. 1343), 42 ft. in height, executed by Masuccio the Younger. In 
 a niche above the king is represented seated on his throne , and below 
 he appears again in a recumbent posture , in the garb of a Franciscan, on 
 a sarcophagus embellished with reliefs and supported by saints. At the 
 top is the Madonna between SS. Francis and Clara. The inscription, 
 ‘Cernite Robertum regem virtute refertum 1 is ascribed to Petrarch. — In 
 the adjacent N. Transept is the monument of his second daughter Mary, 
 sister of Johanna I. , empress of Constantinople and Duchess of Durazzo, 
 
S. Domenico. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 49 
 
 attired in her imperial robes. By the wall to the left, the tomb of Agnese 
 and Clementia, the two daughters of the empress, the former having also 
 been the consort of a titular emperor of Constantinople , Giacomo del 
 Balzo, Prince of Taranto. In the left lateral wall , the tomb of Mary, 
 infant daughter of Charles the Illustrious, who died in 1344. — In the S. 
 Transept, adjoining the monument of Robert the Wise , is that of his 
 eldest son Charles, Duke of Calabria, who died in 1328, before his father, 
 also by Masuccio the Younger . Farther on, to the right, is the monument 
 of Mary of Valois, his queen, erroneously said to be that of her daughter 
 Johanna I. — The Chapel adjoining the S. transept on the right is the burial- 
 chapel of the Bourbons, in which six children of Charles III are interred. 
 
 The handsome Clock-Tower (il Campanile) of S. Chiara was 
 formerly attributed to Masuccio the Younger or to his pupil Giacomo 
 de Sanctis (14th cent.), and hence was long considered to prove 
 that Naples was one of the heralds of the Renaissance. In reality 
 it was not built till after 1600. 
 
 Farther on in the Str. S. Trinitk Maggiore, we soon reach, on the 
 left, the Largo S. Domenico (PL E, F, 4), containing the palaces 
 of Casacalenda , Corigliano , S. Severo , and Caviati , and adorned with 
 a tasteless Obelisk , surmounted by a bronze statue of the saint, 
 executed by Vaccaro in 1737 from a design by Fansaga. The 
 stairs to the left lead to a side- entrance of the church of S. 
 Domenico , the principal entrance of which in the court of the 
 Pretura, Vico S. Domenico, is generally closed. 
 
 *S. Domenico Maggiore (PI. 45; open 7-11 a.m. only), erected 
 by Charles II. in 1289 in the Gothic style from the design of Masuccio 
 the Elder (?), is one of the finest churches in Naples, notwithstand- 
 ing the subsequent alterations it has undergone (the last in 1850- 
 53). The church is 83 yds. long, 36 yds. wide, and 84 ft. high. 
 It contains twenty-seven chapels and twelve altars, and presents an 
 imposing appearance with its handsome columns and rich gilding, 
 but the flat ceiling of the 17th cent, does not harmonise well 
 with the rest of the edifice. The most distinguished princes of 
 Naples have for centuries possessed chapels here, with numerous 
 monuments , which are as important examples of early Renais- 
 sance sculpture as those in S. Chiara are of Gothic art. 
 
 The 1st Chapel to the right (wall of the entrance), that of the Sa- 
 luzzo , formerly of the Carafa family, contains an altar-piece (Madonna 
 with SS. Martin and Dominicus and several of the Carafas) by Andrea 
 da Salerno , freely repainted ; also the rococo monument of General Filippo 
 Saluzzo (d. 1852), and the chaste and simple monument of Galeotto Carafa 
 (d. 1513) with medallion. — 2nd Chap. : altar-piece by Agnolo Franco ; 
 monument of Bishop Bartolommeo Brancaccio (d. 1341). — 3rd Chap. : the 
 badly preserved frescoes of this chapel , which also belongs to the Bran- 
 caccio family, represent the Crucifixion, Supper at Emmaus, Resurrection, 
 Mary Magdalene, and John the Baptist, by Agnolo Franco. — 4th Chap., 
 that of the Capece: Crucifixion by Girolamo Capece. 
 
 The *Cappella del Crocefisso (the 7th) contains handsome monu- 
 ments of the 15th century. The altar is covered with Florentine mosaic 
 designed by Cosimo Fansaga. On the lower part of the altar is a relief of the 
 "Crucifix by Tommaso de'' Stefani , which according to tradition, thus addressed 
 Thomas Aquinas : ‘Bene scripsisti de me, Thoma : quam ergo mereedem 
 
 recipies? 1 To which the saint replied: ‘Non aliam nisi te." 1 Pictures 
 
 on each side of the altar: on the right Bearing the Cross, on the left 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 4 
 
50 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES, 
 
 S . Domenico , 
 
 Descent from the Cross by an imitator of the Flemish style. To the left 
 of the altar’ the >: ‘Monument of Francesco Carafa by Agnello del Fiore; 
 on the opposite side another by the same master, completed by Giovanni 
 da Nola. The small side-chapel contains the tomb of Ettore Carafa, 
 Conte di Ruvo (d. 1511), with martial emblems and arabesques. The 
 next chapel on the left contains the Madonna della Rosa, ascribed to 
 Maestro Simone. On the opposite side is the beautiful "Monument of 
 Mariano dAlagni, Count Bucchianico, and his wife Catarinella Ursino (d. 
 1447), by Agnello del Fiore. Adjacent to it is the monument of Niccolo 
 di Sangro, Principe di Fondi, by Domenico d'Auria. — At the entrance to 
 the sacristy, monuments of members of the family of Thomas Aquinas. 
 
 The "Sacristy has a ceiling-painting by Solimena , and at the altar 
 an Annunciation , attributed to Andrea da Salerno. Around the walls, 
 above, are forty-five large wooden sarcophagi with scarlet covers, ten of 
 which contain the remains of princes of the house of Arragon. Among these 
 are Ferdinand I. (d. 1494) ; Ferdinand II. (d. 1496) *, his aunt , Queen 
 Johanna, daughter of Ferdinand I. (d. 1518) $ Isabella (d. 1524), daughter 
 of AlphonsoII. and wife of the Duke of Milan, etc. Also the coffin of Fernando 
 Francesco d’Avalos, Marchese di Pescara, the hero of Ravenna and Pavia, 
 who died of his wounds at Milan in 1525. The inscription is by Ariosto. 
 Above the tomb are suspended his portrait, a banner, and a sword. His 
 wife was the celebrated Vittoria Colonna, who after his death sang his 
 praises in the island of Ischia (p. 108). 
 
 In the S. Transept the chapel of St. Hyacinth. Adjoining it is the 
 "Monument ofGaleazzoPandone (d. 1514) by Giovanni da Nola. — From the S. 
 transept a door leads into a portion of the older church , which also con- 
 tains some interesting monuments, particularly that of the Rota family, 
 by Giovanni da Nola. 
 
 The High Altar, adorned with Florentine mosaic, is by Fansaga , 1652. 
 
 In the N. Transept, above the chapel of the Pignatelli, are the monu- 
 ments of Giovanni di Durazzo (d. 1323) and Filippo di Taranto (d. 1335), 
 sons of Charles III., with a long inscription in leonine verse. 
 
 N. Aisle. The 8th Chapel (S. Maria della Neve) contains above 
 the altar a beautiful *Haut-relief with a statue of the Virgin, attended by 
 St. Matthew and St. John, the best work of Giovanni da Nola , executed in 
 1536. Here is also the monument of the poet Giambattista Marini of Naples 
 (d. 1625), well known for his bombastic style, with a bust by Bartolommeo 
 Viscontini. — 7th Chapel, of the Buffo Bagnara family: Martyrdom of 
 St. Catherine, by Leonardo da Pistoja; tombs of Leonardo Tomacelli (d. 1529) 
 and of Cardinal Fabricio Ruffo (d. 1829) who acted a prominent part in 
 the events of 1799. — 6th Chapel : tombs of the Carafa. — 5th Chapel : of 
 the Andrea. — 4th Chapel : tombs of the Rota family, with a "Statue of 
 John the Baptist by Giovanni da Nola , as a monument to the poet Bernar- 
 dino Rota (d. 1575), with figures of the Arno and the Tiber by Domenico 
 d'Auria (1600). — 3rd Chapel , to the le/t: Martyrdom of St. John by 
 Scipione Gaetano; tomb of Antonio Carafa, surnamed Malizia (d. 1438). — 
 2nd Chapel, in the bad taste of the 17th cent. : the miracle-working Ma- 
 
 donna di S. Andrea. — 1st Chapel, to the left, by the entrance (S. Stefano): 
 Christ crowning Joseph, by Luca Giordano: on the lateral walls an Adora- 
 tion of the Magi, by a Flemish master $ Holy Family, ascribed to Andrea 
 da Salerno. "Tomb of 1636. 
 
 In the adjacent monastery the celebrated Thomas Aquinas lived in 1272 
 as professor of philosophy at the university which was then founded, 
 and his lectures were attended by men of the highest rank, and even the 
 king himself. His cell, now a chapel, and his lecture-room still exist. 
 The monastery is now occupied by various public offices. The Accademia 
 Pontaniana , founded in 1471 by the learned Giovanni Pontano , also 
 meets here. 
 
 Ascending the Yia Mezzocannona, which leads to the S. from 
 S. Domenico, and then following the third cross-street to the right, 
 we reach the Piazza di S. Giovanni Maggiore, in which rises the 
 
University. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 51 
 
 church of 8, Giovanni Maggiore , adorned with sculptures of the 
 16th century. The adjacent chapel of 8. Giovanni de 1 Pappacoda 
 possesses a handsome Gothic portal dating from 1415. 
 
 The Cappella S. Severo lies to the N.E. of S. Domenico. 
 Ascending to the right past S. Domenico, and taking the first 
 lane to the right, we reach the Calata di S. Severo, the first 
 lane on the left, at the beginning of which, No. 15, is the small 
 church of S. Maria della Pieta de Sangri , commonly called La 
 Cappella di San Severo (PI. 74; the keys at a shop opposite; 
 fee 1 / 2 fr.), erected in 1590 by Francesco di Sangro, extended in 
 1613 by Alessandro di Sangro, Patriarch of Alexandria and Arch- 
 bishop of Benevento, as a burial-place for the Sangro family, and 
 in 1759 lavishly decorated with gold and sculpture by Raimondo 
 di Sangro, Principe di Sansevero. There is no building in Naples 
 in which such bad taste is displayed as in this chapel with its 
 exaggerated magnificence, and unnatural and laboured allegories. 
 It does not fail , however , to attract gaping admirers , and is 
 certainly remarkable for great skill of workmanship. 
 
 The principal of these allegories, which was executed by Francesco 
 Queirolo of Genoa, is the ‘Man in the Net', from which with the 
 aid of reason (a crowned genius) he disentangles himself, whence 
 it is called il disinganno. It contains an allusion to Antonio di Sangro, 
 who renounced the world and became a monk, after having lost his beloved 
 wife Cecilia Gaetani. The latter is represented as Pudicitia, nude, but 
 slightly veiled, the work of Antonio Conradini of Venice (d. 1752). — The 
 altar-piece is a Descent from the Cross, by Francesco Celebrano of Naples. — 
 As another instance of extraordinary perversion of taste may be mentioned 
 the figure of Christ enveloped in a winding sheet by Giuseppe Sammartino 
 (1753) , laid out in a chapel fitted up for the purpose. 
 
 From this point (or by S. Domenico to the right) we may as- 
 cend the side-street leading to the Str. de’ Tribunali, where the 
 cathedral and other important churches (p. 55) are situated. 
 
 We now return to the Largo S. Domenico (p. 49), in order 
 to pursue our route along the Str. S. Trinitk Maggiore, which is 
 continued by the Str. Nilo and by the Str. S. Biagio de’ Librai 
 (p. 52) farther on. Immediately to the right is S. Angelo a Nilo 
 (PI. 33 ; F, 4), erected in 1385 ; to the right of the high altar is the 
 ^Monument of the founder Cardinal Brancaccio (d. 1428), by Dona- 
 tello and Michelozzo , who have here blended the Gothic mon- 
 umental character with the new style of the Renaissance. 
 
 The Strada Salvatore (the second street from the Largo 
 S. Domenico to the right) descends hence to the right to the 
 not far distant — 
 
 University (PI. 32; Regia University degli Studj'), founded in 
 1224 by the Emp. Frederick II., reconstituted in 1780 and 
 removed to the Jesuits’ College. It is one of the most ancient 
 in Europe , and possesses five faculties , fifty - two professorial 
 chairs , a library , and natural history collections of which the 
 mineralogical is the most valuable. The library, admirably arranged 
 
 4 * 
 
 university of lUJNoa 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
52 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 S. Severino e Sosio. 
 
 by Tommaso Gar, may be used by strangers from 9 to 3 daily 
 (librarian Comm. Minervini). The Court contains the statues of 
 Pietro della Yigna, chancellor of Frederick II., Thomas Aquinas, 
 G. B. Vico, and Giordano Bruno, erected in 1863. 
 
 Leaving the university and proceeding in a straight direction, 
 we reach the richly decorated church of S. Severino e Sosio (PI. 73), 
 in the Piazza S. Marcellino, built by Mormandi in 1490. 
 
 The roof is adorned with frescoes by Corenzio , who is interred here, 
 by the entrance to the sacristy. The choir-stalls, dating from the end of 
 the 15th cent., are beautifully carved. Adjoining the choir to the right is 
 the chapel of the Sanseverini, containing three monuments of three bro- 
 thers, who were poisoned by their uncle in 1516, works of Giovanni da 
 Nola. In a chapel near the choir, to the right, is the tomb of Carlo 
 Troya (d. 1858). In the N. transept are the monuments of Admiral Vincenzo 
 Carafa (d. 1611) and the Duca Francesco de Marmilis (d. 1649). The N. 
 aisle contains an altar-piece by Andrea da Salerno , in six sections, re- 
 presenting the Madonna with St. Justina and John the Baptist. By the 
 entrance to the sacristy, in the last chapel of the right transept, the tomb 
 of a child, Andrea Bonifacio, ascribed to Giov. da Nola $ opposite to it is 
 that of Giambattista Cicara , by the same master, both with inscriptions 
 by Sannazaro. 
 
 The monastery connected with this church has since 1818 been 
 the depository of the Archives of the kingdom, which are among 
 the most valuable in the world. Frescoes and paintings by Corenzio 
 adorn the interior. The 40,000 parchment MSS. (the oldest of 
 which are in Greek) date from 703 and include the Norman, 
 Hohenstaufen, Anjou , Arragonian , and Spanish periods. The 
 documents of the Anjou period, 380,000 in number, form no 
 fewer than 378 volumes. (Permission to inspect them must be 
 obtained from the director of the Archives.) — The entrance to 
 the cloisters is by a gateway to the right in the street ascending 
 to the left of the church. We then traverse the arcades of the 
 first two courts, and in the next we shall find the custodian 
 between 10 and 3 o' clock (y 2 -l fr.)* Th e wa ll s the cloisters 
 are adorned with nineteen ^Frescoes, unfortunately much damaged 
 and of late badly restored, representing scenes from the life of St. 
 Benedict. They are generally ascribed to Zingaro and his two sup- 
 posed pupils, Donzelli and Simone Papa , but Messrs. Crowe and 
 Cavalcaselle assign them to a painter of Umbro-Florentine origin. 
 The best of the series is that in grisaille representing the youthful 
 saint on his way to Rome with his father and nurse. The others 
 were probably carried out by assistants. (Best light in the fore- 
 noon. ) In the open space in the centre is a fine plane-tree which 
 is saicl to have been planted by St. Benedict, and on which a fig- 
 tree is grafted. 
 
 Returning to the principal street (p. 51), the continuation 
 of which is called the Strada S. Biagio de’ Librai, we pass 
 the Monte di Pietd , or public loan-establishment, on the right, 
 and several churches and palaces of little importance. One of these, 
 No. 121, the Palazzo Santangelo (PI. 22; F, 4), formerly named 
 
Castel Capuano . 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 53 
 
 Colobrano-Carafa , dating from 1466, once contained a valuable 
 collection of antiquities which are now in the Museum (p. 80). 
 
 The Picture Gallery is shown by permission of the Marchese Sant- 
 angelo. The 1st Room contains modern Neapolitan pictures. — 2nd R. : 
 Agnello Falcone , Battle-piece; Fabr. Santa, fede, Madonna with SS. John 
 and Andrew; Cav. Massimi , Infant Christ asleep ; Gent. Bellini , two Oriental 
 portraits. — 4t.h R. : : Diirer , Garland-weaver, 1508; Van Dyck (1 ), Body of 
 Christ. — 5th R. : :: School of Van Eyck, Madonna (‘a tempera 1 ) ; Rubens , Por- 
 trait of himself and Van Dyck; Giulio Romano (?), Madonna; Sandro 
 Botticelli , Madonna; Wohlgemuth, Death of Mary, painted in 1479 for the 
 Volkamer family at Nuremberg. 
 
 After a walk of 5 min. we observe the broad new Via del 
 Duomo diverging to the left (see p. 55), and leading to the Via 
 de’ Tribunali, which leads straight to the Castel Capuano men- 
 tioned below. 
 
 We continue to follow the Str. S. Biagio, which after 5 min. 
 divides : to the right the Str. S. Egeziaca a Forcella leads to the Porta 
 Nolana (p. 41); to the left is the Str. Annunziata with the Church 
 of the Annunziata (PI. 35), erected in 1757-82 by L. Vanvitelli 
 (frescoes by Corenzio ; tomb of the notorious Queen Johanna II.). 
 This last street is continued by the Str. Maddalena, which leads 
 us to the piazza immediately within the Porta Capuana. On our 
 right here is the gate (see below), opposite us is the church of S. 
 Caterina a Formello , with a dome constructed in 1523, and on 
 our left is the — 
 
 Castel Capuano (PI. F, G, 3), founded by William I., and 
 completed by Frederick II. in 1231 from a design by Fuccio , 
 once the principal residence of the Holienstaufen kings, and occa- 
 sionally that of the Anjous. In 1540 Don Pedro de Toledo (p. 42) 
 transferred the different courts of justice to this palace, where they 
 remain to this day. The building is therefore commonly known 
 as I Tribunali. A visit to some of these courts affords the tra- 
 veller a good opportunity of becoming acquainted with the Nea- 
 politan national character. The prison of La Vicar ia, of evil re- 
 pute , is under the jurisdiction of the criminal court. The chief 
 entrance of the building is on the other side, opposite the Strada 
 de’ Tribunali (p. 55). Omnibuses, see p. 25. 
 
 The *Porta Capuana, built by Ferdinand I. of Arragon about 
 1484, was designed by the Florentine Giuliano da Maiano , and is 
 one of the finest Renaissance gateways in existence. On the entry 
 of Charles V. in 1535 it was restored and decorated with sculptures 
 on the outside by Giovanni da Nola. Like most of the other gate- 
 ways at Naples, it is flanked by two handsome round towers. 
 
 Past the outside of this gate runs the Corso Garibaldi , which 
 extends from the sea to the Strada Foria (see p. 45). 
 
 A little way beyond the Porta Capuana are situated the 
 Cemeteries, the newest of which, the *Campo Santo Nuovo 
 (PI. I, 1), 1 !/ 2 M. from the gate, deserves a visit. (One-horse 
 
54 Routed. NAPLES. 8. Giovanni a Carbonara. 
 
 carr. thither, see p. 24, from the gate and back, 2 fr.) It was 
 laid out by the French, and extended in 1837 at the time of 
 the cholera. The situation is very beautiful , commanding de- 
 lightful *Views of Naples, the sea, and Vesuvius, on which 
 the black lava stream which destroyed S. Sebastiano in 1872 is 
 distinctly recognisable. The cemetery contains comparatively few 
 monuments of individuals, but a great many erected by guilds 
 and societies, most of which are in the form of chapels with 
 niches resembling the Roman columbaria for the reception of 
 the dead. Some of them present an imposing appearance , but 
 few display much taste. — The cemetery presents a most animated 
 and interesting spectacle on All Souls’ Day (2nd Nov.). 
 
 The old cemetery ( Campo Santo Vecchio; PI. H, 1) is now used 
 for the interment of the poor only, for which two extensive courts 
 with 365 vaults, one for every day in the year, are set apart. 
 
 The well-kept Protestant Cemetery ( Cimitero Protestante ; 
 PI. G, 2) lies on the road to the Campo Santo Vecchio, about 
 l / 4 M. from the Porta Capuana. (Visitors knock at the gate, 
 V 2 fr.) A very large proportion of the names observed here are 
 English, German, and American. 
 
 Starting from the piazza within the Porta Capuana , and 
 passing in front of the dome-covered church of S. Caterina, w^e 
 now follow the Strada Carbonara, which leads in 8 min. to 
 the Strada Foria (p. 45). Above us, on the right, at the point 
 where the street narrows, rises the church of — 
 
 *S. Giovanni a Carbonara (PI . 54 5 F, 3; side-entrance reached 
 by ascending the stairs and turning to the right), erected in 1344 
 from a design of Masuccio the Younger (?), and enlarged by King 
 Ladislaus. 
 
 The * Monument of King Ladislaus (d. 1414), considered the master- 
 piece of Andrea Ciccione , erected by Johanna II., the king’s sister, stands at 
 the back of the high-altar, and is of very imposing general effect, as well 
 as carefully executed in the details. Above is the equestrian statue of 
 Ladislaus ; in a recess below, a sarcophagus with the king in a recumbent 
 posture, receiving the benediction of a bishop (in reference to the removal 
 of the excommunication under which the king lay at his death) ; under- 
 neath , Ladislaus and Johanna ; and the whole is supported by statues 
 which represent, the virtues of the deceased. The altar was restored in 1746. 
 
 The Chapel del Sole, behind this monument, contains the "Tomb of 
 the Grand Seneschal Sergianni Caracciolo, the favourite 'of Johanna II., 
 murdered in 1432, also by Ciccione . It was erected by his son Trojano, 
 and reveals traces of the dawn of the Renaissance. Inscription by Lorenzo 
 Valla. The frescoes , scenes from the life of Mary, are by Leonardo di 
 Bisuccio of Milan (d. about 1450), one of the last, pupils of Giotto. — The 
 Chapel of the Caraccioli Rossi, to" the left of the high-altar, a circular 
 temple erected and ornamented in 1516-57 from the designs of Girolamo 
 Santacroce , contains statues by Giov. da Kola , Girol. Santacroce , and 
 Pietro della Plata (altar-reliefs), and the monuments of Galeazzo to the left, 
 and Colantonio Caracciolo opposite, by Scilla and Dom. d'Auria respectively. 
 — The Sacristy contains fifteen scenes from the history of Christ by 
 Yasari , 1546. — Adjoining the entrance to the sacristy from the churcff 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 d. Route. 55 
 
 is a Madonna delle Grazie, a handsome statue executed in 1571. — On 
 the same side, farther on, is a large altar in the form of a chapel, called 
 the Chapel of St. John the Evangelist, with good Renaissance sculptures 
 of the 15th century, renewed in 1619 by Al. Mirabollo. — The above list 
 by no means exhausts the interesting monuments in the church. 
 
 The Congregazione di S. Monica, with a separate entrance at the top 
 of the ilight of steps leading to the church , contains the monument of 
 Prince Ferdinando di Sanseverino by Andreas de Florentia. 
 
 Near S. Giovanni a Carbonara was once the arena for gladiator- 
 combats, of which, in the time of Johanna I. and King Andreas, 
 Petrarch was a horror-stricken spectator. 
 
 From S. Giovanni to the Museum is a walk of 10 min. (see 
 p. 45). — We now return to the Castel Capuano (p. 58). 
 
 From the Piazza de’ Tribunali, opposite the principal entrance 
 to the Castel Capuano, the busy Strada de’ Tribunali (PI. F, E, 
 3, 4) leads in a nearly W. direction towards the Toledo. Follow- 
 ing this street , we soon reach the small piazza of S. Gennaro 
 on the right, the column in which was erected after the appalling 
 eruption of Vesuvius in 1631 (p. 119) to commemorate the suc- 
 cour rendered by St. Januarius. On the summit is the bronze 
 figure of the saint by Finelli. 
 
 We next ascend the flight of steps to the cathedral (principal 
 entrance in the new Via del Duomo, see p. 57). 
 
 The ^Cathedral (PI. 46 ; F, 3), which is dedicated to St. Janua- 
 rius (S. Gennaro), was begun in 1272 by Charles I. of Anjou on 
 the site of a temple of Neptune, continued by Charles II. after 1294, 
 and completed by Robert, grandson of the founder, in 1314. It is 
 in the French-Gothic style, with lofty towers and pointed arches. 
 The portal of the principal facade dates from 1407. In 1456 the 
 church was nearly destroyed by an earthquake, but was afterwards 
 rebuilt by Alphonso I. During the 17th and 18th centuries it 
 underwent frequent alterations and restorations, but it still retains 
 many of its original characteristics. The edifice is a basilica, the 
 aisles of which have a Gothic vaulting. 
 
 The ceiling-paintings of the Nave are by Santafede (the square ones) and 
 Vincenzio da Forti (oval); the frescoes on the upper part of the lateral walls 
 are by Luca Giordano and his pupils. St. Cyril and St. Chrysostom are by 
 Solimena. Over the principal entrance are the tombs of (1.) Charles I. of 
 Anjou and (r.) Charles Martel, King of Hungary, eldest son of Charles II. 
 and his wife Clementia, a daughter of Rudolph of Hapsburg, erected by the 
 viceroy Olivarez in 1599. Above the side-doors are paintings by Vasari 
 (1546), representing David playing the harp, and the patron-saints of 
 Naples; the heads are portraits of Pope Paul III. and other members of 
 the Farnese family. 
 
 In the S. Aisle is the " Chapel of St. Januarius (the 3rd), commonly 
 known as the Cappella del Tesoro , adorned with 'a marble facade and 
 magnificent large brazen doors. On the right and left are two lofty 
 columns of greenish marble, and above is the inscription : ‘Divo Janua- 
 rio, e fame hello, peste, ac Vesuvi igne miri ope sanguinis erepta Nea- 
 polis, civi patrono vindici. -1 The chapel was erected in consequence of a 
 vow made during the plague in 1527. The work was begun in 1608 and 
 was completed in 29 years at a cost of a million ducats (about 225,000 l. 
 
56 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 sterling). The best time for seeing it is .shortly before 12, the hour when 
 the church closes. 
 
 The interior of the chapel, which is in the form of a Greek cross, is 
 richly decorated with gold and marble, and contains eight altars, forty-two 
 columns of broccatello, magnificent doors , five oil-paintings on copper by 
 Domenichino , and several frescoes from the life of St. Januarius. The first 
 four representations, however, alone (tomb of the saint ; his martyrdom ; re- 
 suscitation of a youth ; sick persons healed by oil from a lamp which had 
 hung before the tomb of the saint) are entirely by Domenichino, who along 
 with Guido Reni and Lanfranco , intimidated by the threats of their jealous 
 Neapolitan rivals, Spagnoletto and Corenzio , abandoned the task of paint- 
 ing the dome. — The Sacristy of the Tesoro contains pictures by Stan - 
 zioni and Luca Giordano; a costly collection of ecclesiastical vestments 
 and sacred vessels ; the silver bust of St. Januarius, executed for Charles II. 
 in 1306 ; forty-five other busts in silver of the patron saints of the city, 
 and other valuable relics. — In the tabernacle of the high-altar, which is 
 adorned with a carefully covered relief in silver representing the arrival 
 of the saint's remains, are preserved two vessels containing the Blood 
 of St. Januarius , Bishop of Benevento , who suffered martyrdom under 
 Diocletian in 305 (comp. p. 99). The liquefaction of the blood, which 
 according to the legend took place for the first time when the body was 
 brought to Naples by Bishop St. Severus in the time of Constantine , is 
 the occasion of the greatest festival of Naples and takes place three times 
 annually during several successive days (1st Saturday in May, in the 
 evening, 19th Sept., and 16th Dec. , between 9 and 10 a. m.). 
 
 In the S. aisle, farther on, is the Cappella Brancia (the 5th), which 
 contains the tomb of Cardinal Carbone (d. 1405) by Ant. Baboccio. — In 
 the S. Transept is the chapel of the Caraccioli, with the monument of 
 Cardinal Bernardino Caraccioli (d. 1268). 
 
 At the back of the transept, to the right, is the entrance to the 
 "Cappella Minutoli (open 6-8 a. m. only), in the Gothic style, constructed 
 by Masuccio the Elder if), the upper part adorned with paintings by Tom- 
 maso degli Stefani in the 13th cent, (frequently retouched), the lower part 
 by an unknown master ; monument of Card. Arrigo Minutoli (d. 1301), and 
 other tombs of the 14th and 15th cent.; triptych of the Trinity on the 
 altar, a good early Sienese work. — The adjoining Cappella Tocca con- 
 tains the tomb of St. Asprenas , one of the first bishops of Naples. 
 
 Beneath the high-altar (staircase to the right, with brazen doors) is 
 the richly decorated "Confessio, or Shrine of St. Januarius, with ancient 
 columns and beautiful marble covering, containing the tomb of the saint. 
 The tasteful ornamentation, by Tomaso Malvito of Como (1504), should be 
 remarked. Facing the shrine , to the left, is the kneeling figure of Car- 
 dinal Oliviero Carafa, who erected the chapel in 1492-1506, probably also 
 by Malvito. — Fresco on the ceiling of the choir by Domenichino, the 
 Adoration of the Angels. 
 
 The Gothic chapel of the Capece Galeota, to the left of the liigh-altar, 
 contains a painting of Christ between St. Januarius and St. Athanasius, 
 15th century. 
 
 In the N. Transept, by the door of the sacristy, are the tombs 
 of (r.) : Innocent IV. (d. 1254 at Naples) , erected by the Archbishop 
 Umberto di Montorio in 1318, restored in the 16th cent.; Andreas, 
 King of Hungary, who was murdered by his queen Johanna I. at Aversa, 
 as the inscription records: ‘Andrese Caroli Uberti Pannonise regis f. 
 
 Neapolitanorum regi Joannee uxoris dolo laqueo necato Ursi Minutili 
 pietate hie recondito' ; (1.) : Pope Innocent XII. (Pignatelli of Naples ; 
 d. 1696). 
 
 In the N. Aisle, near the transept, is the Cappella de 1 Seripandi, 
 adorned with an "Assumption of the Virgin, by Pietro Perugino (1460). — 
 We next reach the entrance to Santa Restituta (see below). — In the 
 2nd chapel: Entombment, a relief by Giovanni da Nola; above it 
 
 St. Thomas , by Marco da Siena. — In the vicinity (in the nave) is the 
 Font, an ancient basin of green basalt, with Bacchanalian thyrsi and masks. 
 
 Adjoining the cathedral on the left, and entered from it by a door 
 
S. Filippo Neri. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 57 
 
 in the left aisle (when closed, fee l /<2 fr.), is the church of Santa Resti- 
 tuta (PI. 71; F, 3), a basilica with pointed arches, occupying the site of a 
 temple of Apollo, to which it is probably indebted for the ancient 
 Corinthian columns in the nave. This was the cathedral of Naples prior 
 to the erection of the larger church. 
 
 The foundation, erroneously attributed to Constantine the Great, dates 
 from the 7th century. When the cathedral was built this church was 
 shortened, and in the 17th cent, it was restored. In the Chapel S. Maria 
 del Principio, at the farther extremity, to the left, is an ancient "Mosaic 
 of the Virgin with St. Januarius and Sta. Restituta, restored in 1322, 
 and considered the earliest in Naples; whence the name ‘del Principio 1 . 
 On the lateral walls two remarkable bas-reliefs from an altar-screen, sup- 
 posed to date from the 8th cent., each in fifteen compartments ; to the left the 
 history of Joseph ; to the right above, St. Januarius, then Samson ; beneath, 
 St. George. — At the back of the high-altar the Virgin with St. Michael 
 and Sta. Restituta, by Silvestro Buono (?), a good work of a mixed Um- 
 brian and Neapolitan style (forged inscription; painted after 1500). — 
 The small dome of the chapel S. Giovanni in Fonte (closed) to the right, 
 said to have been erected by Constantine in 333, formerly the baptistery 
 of the church, is adorned with old, but frequently restored mosaics of 
 Christ, the Virgin, etc. — The altar-piece, the Baptism of Christ, by 
 Silvestro Buono (?). — On the ceiling of the nave a fresco by Luca Gior- 
 dano: the body of Sta. Restituta being conveyed by angels in a boat to 
 Ischia. 
 
 The principal facade of the cathedral (portal, see p. 55), which 
 is approached by a flight of steps, looks towards the new and broad 
 Via del Duomo (PI. F, 3), a street diverging from the Strada 
 Foria (p. 45) and running nearly parallel with the Toledo. Many 
 of the densely packed houses of the old town have been demo- 
 lished to make way for this street, and it is to be extended down 
 to the sea, but for the present it terminates at the Via S. Biagio 
 de’ Librai (see p. 52). 
 
 Adjoining the cathedral , on the right as we leave the church , 
 is the extensive Arch [episcopal Palace (PI. 13; F, 3), erected in 
 the 13th cent. , and entirely restored by Cardinal Filomarino in 
 1647. The principal facade looks to the Piazza Donna Regina. 
 
 In the Str. Anticaglia (PI. F, 3) are the remains of an ancient 
 Theatre , once apparently of considerable extent, of which two arches 
 still exist. 
 
 We now return to the Strada de’ Tribun ali. After a few 
 paces, we observe the small Largo Gerolomini on the right, with 
 the church of S. Filippo Neri (PI. 47 ; F, 3), or de J Gerolomini , 
 erected in 1592-1619, and overladen with ornament. 
 
 Over the principal entrance: Christ and the money-changers, a large 
 
 fresco by Luca Giordano ; high-altar-piece by Giovanni Bernardino Siciliano; 
 lateral paintings by Corenzio. The sumptuous chapel of S. Filippo Neri, 
 to the left of the high-altar, contains a ceiling-fresco by Solimena ; and that 
 of St. Francis of Assisi (4th chap, to the left) a painting by Guido Beni. 
 Near the latter, at the base of a pillar in the nave, is the tombstone of 
 the learned Giambattista Vico, b. at Naples 1670, d. 1744. The sacristy 
 (entrance to the left) contains paintings by Andrea da Salerno , Corrado , 
 Domenichino , Salinribeni , Guido Beni , and others. 
 
 To the right, farther on, is situated S. Paolo Maggiore (PI. 67 ; 
 F, 3), approached by a lofty flight of steps, and built in 1590 by 
 
58 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 S. Lorenzo. 
 
 the Theatine Grimaldi on the site of an ancient temple of Castor 
 and Pollux. The beautiful portico of the temple remained in situ 
 till it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1688, and two Corinthian 
 columns with part of the architrave are still to he seen. The 
 church contains numerous decorations in marble, and paintings by 
 Corenzio , Stanzioni , Marco da Siena , and Solimena. 
 
 In the 2nd chapel on the left is the monument of the minister Donato 
 Tommasi (d. 1831). In the 4th chapel to the left is the monument of 
 Cardinal Zurlo (d. 1801), with a statue. The 5th chapel contains cabinets 
 in which fifty-two relics of saints are preserved in velvet and gold cases. 
 — In the passage to the sacristy (S. transept) is an old copy of Ra- 
 phael’s Madonna del Pesce. — The Cloisters are said to occupy the site of 
 the ancient theatre in which Nero performed as an actor. They are 
 borne by twenty-four ancient granite columns. During the Roman period 
 this was the central point of the city. 
 
 In the small piazza in front of S. Paolo, on the other side 
 of the Strada de’ Tribunali, to the left, is situated the church of 
 *S. Lorenzo (PL 57 ; F, 8), begun in the Gothic style by Charles I. 
 of Anjou in 1266 , to commemorate his victory over King Manfred 
 at Benevento (p. 187), and completed by Robert I. in 1324. The 
 site is that of the ancient Basilica Augustalis. The plan of 
 the church, according to Vasari, was designed by Maglione , a 
 pupil of Niccolo Pisano, but was altered by Masuccio the Younger 
 in his peculiar style. The portal and the choir only are of the 
 Gothic period, the nave having been almost entirely rebuilt in the 
 16th century. 
 
 Interior. The large picture over the chief entrance, Jesus and St. 
 Francis, is by Vincenzo Corso. — The Coronation of King Robert by St. 
 Louis of Toulouse, with a predella (signed), in the 7th chapel to the right 
 is by Simone di Martino of Siena. The same chapel contains the relics 
 of some frescoes in the Sienese style. — St. Anthony of Padua, in the 
 chapel of that saint in the N. transept, on a gold ground, and St. Francis 
 as the founder of his Order, in the chapel of St. Francis in the S. tran- 
 sept, both show traces of Flemish influence. The three statues of St. 
 Francis, St. Lawrence, and St. Antony, and the "Reliefs on the high-altar 
 are by Giovanni da JVola (1478). — In the retro-clioir behind the higli- 
 altar , entering to the right , are the monuments of : (1) Catherine of 
 
 Austria, first wife of Charles, Duke of Calabria (d. 1323), with a pyra- 
 midal canopy and adorned with mosaics, by Masuccio the Younger (?) ; (2) 
 Johanna di Durazzo , daughter of Charles of Durazzo , and her husband 
 Robert of Artois, both of whom died of poison on the same day, 20tli July, 
 1387 ; below are three Virtues, above them two angels drawing aside the 
 curtain. Then, in a closed space : (3) Mary, the young daughter of Charles 
 of Durazzo, killed at Aversa in 1347. The two last monuments are also by 
 Masuccio the Younger (?). By the entrance of the church, on the right, is the 
 tombstone of the naturalist Giambattista della Porta (1550-1616). 
 
 The monastery connected with the church is now used as barracks. 
 The Cloisters, which we reach by entering a gate to the right of the 
 church and then turning to the left in the entrance passage, contain 
 the tomb of Ludovico Aldemoresco, by Baboccio (1414). The Chapter- 
 House, which opens off the cloisters, is adorned with frescoes represent- 
 ing all the saints of the Franciscan order. In 1343 Petrarch resided in 
 this monastery $ and Boccaccio, when in the church of S. Lorenzo, beheld 
 the beautiful princess whom he praises under the name of Fiammetta. 
 
 Iii the direction of the Toledo, to the left, is situated S. Pietro 
 a Maiella (PI. 69 ; E, 4), in the Gothic style, erected by Giovanni 
 
Museum. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 59 
 
 Pipino di Barletta , the favourite of Charles II. (d. 1316; his tomb 
 is in the left transept), but afterwards altered. In the adjacent 
 monastery is established the Conservatory of Music (\R. Collegio 
 di Musica; PI. 6), founded in 1537, which has sent forth a 
 number of celebrated composers (e. g. Bellini) , and was long 
 presided over by Mercadante. A number of valuable MSS. of 
 Paesiello, Jomelli, Pergolese, and other eminent masters are pre- 
 served here. From this point we reach the Piazza Dante on the 
 Toledo (see p. 42). 
 
 IV. The Museum. 
 
 In the upper part of the town , in the prolongation of the 
 Toledo , at the point where the street takes the name of Strada 
 di Capodimonte, and where a street leading to the Piazza Cavour 
 diverges to the right, rises the **Museo Nazionale (PI. 9; E, 3), 
 formerly called Museo Reale Borbonico , or gli Studj. It was 
 erected in 1586 by the viceroy Duke of Ossuna as a cavalry-bar- 
 rack, and in 1615 ceded to the university, which was established 
 there until 1780, when it was transferred to the Gesu Vecchio. 
 Since 1790 it has been fitted up for the reception of the royal 
 collection of antiquities and pictures , to which in 1816 Fer- 
 dinand I. gave the name of Museo Reale Borbonico. The history 
 of the edifice is recorded on twelve marble slabs recently built 
 into the wall of the vestibule. 
 
 Here are united the older and more recent collections belong- 
 ing to the crown , the Farnese collection from Rome and 
 Parma, those of the palaces of Portici and Capodimonte, and the 
 excavated treasures of Herculaneum, Pompeii, Stabise, and Cumie. 
 These united collections now form one of the finest in the world ; 
 the Pompeian antiquities and objects of art in particular, as well 
 as the bronzes from Herculaneum, are unrivalled, f 
 
 The Museum is open daily, except on national holidays (see 
 p. xxi), May to Oct. 9-3, Nov. to April 10-4 o’clock ; on Sundays 
 (10-1) gratis, on other days admission 1 fr. ; gratuities forbidden. 
 
 The present director is Giulio de Petra , to whose predecessor 
 Giuseppe Fiorelli (now in Rome) is due the general arrangement of 
 the museum as it now stands. Unimportant alterations are, however, 
 still occasionally made, so that it is impossible to give here an ab- 
 solutely accurate enumeration of the contents. No Catalogue has 
 yet been published except for the coins, the weapons, and the in- 
 scriptions; but we may mention the ‘ Guide General du Musee 
 National * which has been published by Dom. Monaco, the con- 
 
 t The following letters indicate the origin of the different objects. 
 B. Borgia collection, C. Capua, C. A. Amphitheatre of Capua, Cu. Cumse, 
 F. Farnese collection, H. Herculaneum, L. Lucera, <^/. Minturnse, N. Naples, 
 P, Pompeii, Pz. Pozzuoli, 8. Stabile, 
 
60 Route 4. 
 
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 Museum . 
 
 servator of the museum, and which will he found useful in several 
 respects (sold at the hook-shops, price 5 fr.). 
 
 The Entrance is in the street leading from the Toledo to 
 the Piazza Cavour. Sticks and umbrellas must he given up at 
 the Garderobe , to the left in the gateway. Tickets are obtained 
 at the second door to the left. Custodians stationed at different 
 parts of the building readily give information when applied to ; 
 most of them speak French. 
 
 Permission to copy or study, which is always accorded to artists and 
 scientific men, is obtained by strangers on showing their passports at the 
 Segreteria (entered by the second door , on the second floor ; public 
 entrance to the library on the first floor, p. 77), where a similar per- 
 mission may be procured for Pompeii and Paestum. Free tickets for 
 Pompeii (p. 124) are also to be had here. 
 
 (A room on the right, opposite the Garderobe, contains casts, 
 models, photographs, and copies of the objects in the museum, 
 which are sold at fixed, but high prices. Discount is allowed on 
 large purchases.) 
 
 The following is a sketch of the general arrangements : — 
 
 A. Ground Floor (comp. Plan, p. 72). 
 
 Right Side: Ancient Frescoes (p. 61) ; beyond them, Inscriptions 
 and several large sculptures (p. 63) ; then Egyptian 
 Antiquities (p. 64). 
 
 Left Side: Ancient Marble Statues (p. 65); beyond them, the 
 
 Large Bronzes (p. 70). 
 
 B. Entresol. 
 
 Right Side: Mediaeval Works of Art (p. 72); Ancient Crystal 
 (p. 73); Ancient Terracottas (p. 73). 
 
 Left Side: Cumaean Antiquities (p. 73). 
 
 C. Upper Floor (comp. Plan, p. 73). 
 
 Right Side: Copies of Pompeian Pictures (p. 74); Articles of 
 Food from Pompeii (p. 74); Papyri (p. 74); 
 Pictures (p. 74; Italian); Engravings (p. 76). 
 Immediately opposite: Library (p. 77). 
 
 Left Side: Gold and Silver Ornaments and Gems (p. 77); Coins 
 
 (p. 78); Pictures (p. 79; Neapolitan and foreign); 
 Museum Santangelo (p. 80) and Vases (p. 81); 
 Small Bronzes (p. 82). 
 
 A. Ground Floor. 
 
 Leaving the entrance gateway, we pass through a glass-door, 
 where tickets are given up, into a large Vestibule with sev- 
 eral ancient statues from the Farnese collection. At the end 
 of the vestibule are the stairs ascending to the upper floors. 
 
 The following are the most interesting statues in the vestibule: — 
 On the right, by the entrance, Alexander Severus; left, a Melpomene 
 
Museum. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 61 
 
 from the theatre of Pompey at Rome, erroneously restored as Urania. 
 By the staircase, right, Flora; left, Genius of the city of Rome. At each 
 of the two doors leading to the court are two figures with the toga; by 
 the staircase two river-gods. In the staircase above, two Venuses from 
 the theatre at Herculaneum. 
 
 The ** Collection of Ancient Frescoes (Affreschi Pom - 
 peiani ). from Herculaneum, Pompeii, Stabiae, etc., which we 
 first visit, occupies the right half of the ground -floor. These 
 paintings occupy seven rooms and a corridor , being grouped 
 in accordance with their subjects , and each group is furnished 
 with a Roman numeral. These works are, with the exception of 
 painted vases and mosaics, almost the only specimens of ancient 
 painting which have come down to us, and are therefore of extreme 
 value. They are our sole informants with regard to the ancient style, 
 colouring, and treatment of light and shade. Many of them are 
 beautifully conceived, and executed with an easy, masterly touch, 
 and they include landscapes, historical and mythological subjects, 
 genre-paintings, architectural drawings, and animal and fruit-pieces. 
 Although mere decorative paintings of a small provincial Roman 
 town, they suffice to show how thoroughly the profession was im- 
 bued with artistic principles. Some of the representations may be 
 copies from celebrated or favourite pictures, but the style is such as 
 entirely to preclude the idea that they were mechanically copied 
 or stencilled. The rapid, easy execution and absence of minute 
 detail prove that they were intended for effect, and not for close 
 inspection. Their state of preservation of course varies greatly 
 (comp. Introd., pp. xxxviii-xl). 
 
 I. Room (immediately to the right of the place where tickets are 
 given up ; 1st door), a long corridor : Architectural mural decorations. 
 Those on the right wall, in the centre, group vii, are from the villa 
 of Diomedes (p. 139); those on the left side, the further end, and 
 the farther part of the wall on the right are nearly all from the 
 Temple of Isis at Pompeii. 
 
 II. Room : Animals, fruit, still-life, attributes of gods, etc. — 
 The gallery of inscriptions (p. 63) has an entrance here. We now 
 return through the 1st Room to the principal collection. — The fol- 
 lowing rooms contain the mythological and genre representations. 
 Their enumeration is in the order denoted by the Roman numerals. 
 
 III. Room : xv. *Girl gathering flowers. Two heads of Medusa, 
 
 xvi-xviii. Sea-gods. In the corner a *Nereid on a sea-panther. On 
 the window-wall Phryxus and Helle. Two glazed tables exhibit a 
 well-arranged collection of colours found at Pompeii, xx. Sacrifice 
 to the Lares. — xxi, xxii. Sacrifice to Isis and scenes in the 
 Egyptian style, from Herculaneum. — In the passage to the follow- 
 ing room : xxiv. Ulysses carrying off the Palladium from Troy ; 
 under it, Scipio and the dying Sophonisbe. — In the second pas- 
 sage: *xxvi. Medea brooding over the murder of her children. 
 
 Opposite : xxvii, Meleager and Atalante. 
 
62 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 IY. Room : (1.) xxviii Hercules supported by Priapus and 
 Omphale. xxviii, xxix. Perseus releasing Andromeda, xxx. (be- 
 low) Hercules, Dejanira, and tbe Centaur Nessus. xxxi. ^Finding 
 of the young Telephus suckled by the hind (from Herculaneum). 
 Wounded .Eneas. — In the passage to the room of the mosaics : 
 xxxii. The infant Hercules strangling the snakes sent by Juno. — 
 xxxiii. *Four important scenes from Herculaneum : Triumphant 
 actor, with his mask exhibited as a votive offering ; Achilles and 
 Antilochus (or Patroclus) ; Concert; Attiring of a bride. Also genre- 
 scenes from Pompeii (paintress, etc.). — xxxiv. Admetus and Al- 
 cestis receiving the answer of the oracle. — In the passage : xxxv. 
 Comedy scenes, xxxvi. Chastisement of Dirce by Amphion and 
 Zethus (same subject as the Farnese Bull, p. 64). Phaedra and Hip- 
 polytus. Cimon nourished from the breast of his daughter Pero (a 
 favourite subject with modern artists, known as ‘Caritas Romana’). — 
 xxxvii. Theseus after the slaughter of the Minotaur, xxxviii. Scenes 
 from the forum of Pompeii : in the centre, a school (chastisement 
 of a pupil), baker’s shop ; small caricature of ^Eneas, Anchises, 
 and Ascanias, represented with dogs’ heads ; pensive maiden, with 
 pencil. Several admirable busts of youthful subjects, two of which 
 (to the left) have been restored as a Pompeian baker and his wife, 
 xxxix. * Abduction of Briseis from the tent of Achilles. *Achilles 
 being taught the lyre by Chiron. Ulysses unrecognised by Penelope. 
 Achilles recognised at Scyros. — xl. Sacrifice of Iphigenia (from the 
 ‘House of the Tragic Poet’). *Orestes and Pylades in presence of 
 Iphigenia at Tauris. — Adjacent to this room is the — 
 
 Y. Room. * Mosaics . In the centre, on the floor : Fettered lion 
 amid Cupids and Bacchanalian figures. — On the entrance-wall, 
 by the pillar : Theseus killing the Minotaur, three copies. Farther 
 on, towards the window: in the centre, actor trained by a poet; 
 above, skull, and other symbols, found on a table in a triclinium 
 at Pompeii ; on the left and right comedy scenes (by Dioscurides of 
 Samos, according, to the inscription) ; partridges ; two cocks after 
 the fight. — Under the window : Animals of Egypt. — Farther on : 
 *Acratus (companion of Bacchus) riding on a lion ; below, a ^‘Gar- 
 land with masks ; on the left, parrots ; on the right, a wild cat with 
 a partridge, and fish, all excellent mosaics from the house of the 
 Faun (p. 141). • — Farther on, a chained dog with the warning ‘Cave 
 Canem’(from the threshold of the ‘House of the Tragic Poet’, p. 135). 
 — Right wall : a large niche , probably intended for a fountain ; 
 above it, Phryxus and Helle ; on the left, the three Graces, the 
 marriage of Neptune and Amphi trite; on the right, quarrel of Achilles 
 and Agamemnon. — We now retrace our steps, and follow the ar- 
 rangement of the pictures which is continued through the passages 
 from the 3rd Room to the 6th, which adjoins it on the other side. 
 
 YI. Room : In the two passages, beginning next the window : 
 xli-xliv. Rope-dancing Satyrs, ^Hovering Centaurs, *I)ancing Sa- 
 
Museum. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 63 
 
 tyrs and Bacchantes, etc. — Farther on : *xlv. Representations of 
 Cupid (‘Cupids for sale !’). xlvi. Marriage of Zephyrus and Chloris 
 (Lat. Flora), xlvii. The three Graces, xlviii. Diana and Endymion 
 (repeated several times) ; *Diana with a how, in a pensive attitude 
 (pendant to the ‘Girl gathering flowers’ in Room III). — By the 
 window to the left: xlix. Venus and Mars, several representations. 
 Venus and Cupids, lii. Triumphal procession of Bacchus. Bacchus 
 and Ariadne. — *liii. Dancers. 
 
 VII. Room : lviii-lix. More ancient paintings from the tombs of 
 Ruvo, Gnatia, Psestum, Capua : lviii. Mercury as conductor of the 
 dead. Funeral dance, lix. Samnite warriors in full armour, from 
 Peestum. Gorgon head with Messapian inscription. — lx. Narcissus 
 in different attitudes. Ixi-lxiii and lxv-lxvii. Landscapes from 
 Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabiae. *lxviii. Vulcan showing 
 Thetis the arms of Achilles (twice). Ixx. Jupiter crowned by 
 Victoria, lxxi. Io’s arrival in Egypt. *Jupiter and Juno on Mount 
 Ida. Io watched by Argus. Mercury giving the Syrinx to Argus. 
 Ixxii. Five * Drawings on Marble (monochromic) from Herculaneum : 
 Achilles (?) in a quadriga; GSdipus with Antigone and Ismene(?); 
 Latona with Niobe and other women of Cadmus playing at dice 
 (purporting to be by Alexandros of Athens); Scene from a tragedy. 
 Theseus rescuing the bride of Pirithous from a Centaur (?). Similar 
 drawing from Pompeii. Fragment of a representation of the fate of 
 Niobe and her children. 
 
 To the above collection belongs a corridor (entered from the 
 vestibule of the Galleria Lapidaria, or by the 3rd door in the great 
 vestibule) containing * Ornamental Paintings (Affreschi Orna- 
 mentali) from Pompeii and Herculaneum, being mural decorations, 
 some of them with raised stucco designs and reliefs. They are 
 executed with taste and precision and deserve careful inspection. 
 
 In the semicircular space, lxxxi. Valuable collection of deco- 
 rative masks, lxxxii. Pillar with paintings from the ‘Fullonica’ 
 at Pompeii (p. 141), showing the different processes of the handi- 
 craft. The owl is the symbol of Minerva , the tutelary goddess of 
 fullers. Ixxxiv. ^Fragments of a wall from Herculaneum. 
 
 The two large central glass-doors of the vestibule on the right 
 and left lead into Courts, filled with reliefs, statues, and archi- 
 tectural fragments , many of which deserve the notice of connois- 
 seurs. 
 
 The wing connecting the W. part of the Museum with the 
 E. (right) half contains the * Gallery of Inscriptions (Galleria 
 Lapidaria , or Sala del Toro ), which has other entrances both 
 from the collection of the ornamental paintings and from the sec- 
 ond room of the ancient pictures (p. 61). 
 
 The collection comprises upwards of 2000 Latin inscriptions, 
 others in Oscan, and engraved (graffiti) and painted (dipinti) mural 
 inscriptions from Pompeii. The collection, which is arranged in 
 
64 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 Accordance with the geographical situation of the different localities 
 of discovery, consists chiefly of epitaphs, but also includes lauda- 
 tory and other inscriptions. Among the bronze tables are the cele- 
 brated Tables of Heraclea (p. 217; no. 82), bearing on one side 
 regulations as to temple lands in the ancient Greek language, and 
 on the other (inscribed at a later date) the Italian municipal laws 
 promulgated by Caesar in B. C.46. A cabinet contains leaden pipes 
 with inscriptions from aqueducts, etc. 
 
 The following large sculptures are also placed here : to the left 
 at the entrance a statue of Tiberius, to the right Atreus with the 
 son of Thyestes (?), sometimes taken for Hector with the body of 
 Troilus (comp. Introd., p. xxxiii). 
 
 In the Principal Room, on the left, is the celebrated group of 
 the **Farnese Bull , a work of the Rhodian sculptors Apollonius and 
 Tauriscus, once in possession of Asinius Pollio, and found in 1546 
 in the Thermae of Caracalla at Rome in a sadly mutilated condition. 
 The restoration of the group was superintended by Michael Angelo. 
 The two sons of Antiope, Amphion and Zethus, avenge the wrongs 
 of their mother by binding Dirce, who had treated her with the 
 greatest cruelty for many years, to the horns of a wild bull. An- 
 tiope in the background exhorts them to forgiveness. The boldness 
 and. life of the group , originally hewn out of a single block of 
 marble, is unrivalled in any other work of the same character 
 (comp. Introd., pp. xxxi-xxxiii). The new parts are the head of 
 the bull , the Antiope , with the exception of the feet , the upper 
 parts of Dirce and considerable portions of Amphion and Zethus. 
 
 Opposite, on the right side of the room, stands the so-called 
 **Farnese Hercules , also from the Thermae of Caracalla , where it 
 was found in 1540. The legs were at first wanting, but were re- 
 stored by Della Porta; twenty years later the genuine missing por- 
 tions were discovered, and having been presented by Prince Borghese 
 to the King of Naples, were restored to the statue. The end of the 
 nose, the left hand, and part of the left arm are new. 
 
 The hero holds in his right hand the golden apples of the Hesperides, 
 the sign of his successful accomplishment of the eleventh of the labours 
 imposed on him by King Eurystheus, and leans, faint and weary, on his 
 club. The conception differs wholly from the triumphant victor of the 
 early legend, and would alone stamp the work as one of a comparatively 
 recent period.- This conclusion is strengthened by the mannerism appa- 
 rent in the over-strained effort to express great muscular strength. Ac- 
 cording to the inscription, it is the work of the Athenian Glycon, and 
 was probably executed under the early emperors, possibly on the model 
 of a statue by Lysippus. 
 
 Descending a staircase in this hall , and passing through a 
 room containing Christian Inscriptions from the catacombs of Rome 
 and Naples built into the walls, we reach the Egyptian Anti- 
 quities, a considerable number of which were purchased from Car- 
 dinal Borgia’s collection at Velletri. The arrangement is complete, 
 with the exception of the numbering. 
 
Museum. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 65 
 
 1st Room. In the centre Serapis , found in the vestibule of the 
 Serapeum at Pozzuoli. Isis, a marble statuette from the temple of Isis 
 at Pompeii, holding a sistrum and the keys of the Nile, with interesting 
 traces of gilding and painting. On the short wall, Horus with a dog’s head. 
 The cabinets contain a valuable collection of small statuettes. 
 
 2nd Room. In the centre: by the window, a granite tombstone with twenty- 
 two figures in relief and hieroglyphics. Egyptian priest, a so-called ‘Pasto- 
 phorus’ , in black basalt. By the walls six glass cabinets with all kinds of 
 trinkets, etc. To the right of the entrance, the second immured tablet is the so- 
 called ‘Table of Isis’, from the temple of Isis at Pompeii. By the window- 
 wall a papyrus with Greek writing , dating from the 2nd or 3rd cent. , which 
 with forty others was found at Memphis in a chest of sycamore wood, 
 and contains names of the canal labourers on the Nile. Opposite the 
 entrance a number of mummies of men, women, and children , some of 
 them divested of their cerements and admirably preserved (the skull of 
 a female mummy still retains the hair). Also the mummy of a crocodile. 
 
 The left (W.) half of the ground-floor contains the valuable 
 collection of marble sculptures and the bronzes. 
 
 The ^Collection of Marble Sculptures occupies the great 
 corridor with three branches, and the rooms situated beyond the 
 second branch. The new arrangement in accordance with the 
 local and historical position of the works is practically complete. 
 It is best to begin with the N. corridor ( third door on the left from 
 the vestibule), the — 
 
 Corridor of the Masterpieces ( Portico de y Capolavori ), 
 which contains the finest works in the collection , affording a 
 review of the development of the ancient plastic art from the 
 5th cent. B.C. down to the reign of Hadrian and his successors. 
 This part of the collection in particular supplies the visitor with 
 an admirable illustration of the history of ancient art, and includes 
 moreover several works of the highest merit. 
 
 *897. Hera (Farnese Juno), in the early style, austere in ex- 
 pression and the clearest representation extant of the ideal of Poly- 
 cletus (Introd., p. xxix) ; it is a replica of a bronze original, in which 
 the eyes were of some other material, and was intended to be joined 
 to a statue. — *896. Orestes and Electra , a group which has given 
 rise to much discussion, probably belonging to the revived archaic 
 style introduced by Pasiteles towards the end of the republic (In- 
 trod., p. xxxiii). — *895. Pallas , archaic style, from Herculaneum, 
 — 894. Artemis , an archaic statuette found at Pompeii, with nu- 
 merous traces of painting (gold on the rosettes of the head-dress, 
 red on the edges of the robe, the quiver-band, and the sandals). 
 
 *892, 893. Harmodius and Aristogeiton (head of Aristogeiton 
 ancient, but originally belonging to some other statue). 
 
 After the expulsion of Hippias in 510 B. C. the Athenians erected in 
 the Agora statues of Harmodius and Aristogeiton, the slayers of the tyrant 
 Hipparchus. This group, the work of Anterior , was "carried away by 
 Xerxes in 480 and replaced in 478 by another executed by Kritios and 
 Nesiotes. The original statues were afterwards restored to Athens by 
 Alexander the Great or one of his successors, and the two groups stood 
 side by side in the market-place, where they were seen by Pausanias the 
 historian (2nd cent, of our era). The statues in the museum are a copy 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 5 
 
66 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 of one or other of these groups, both of which were in bronze and pro- 
 bably alike in all essential details. — Comp. Introd., p. xxx. 
 
 887. Athlete , from the palaestra of Pompeii, the left hand missing, 
 as in other examples of the same statue ; it is supposed to be a 
 replica of the Doryphorus of Polycletus; comp. Introd., p. xxix. 
 
 888. Dying Amazon , Dead Persian , Dead Giant ( or Gaul?\ and 
 Wounded Gaul , of the Pergamenian school. 
 
 King Attalus I. of Pergamus, having in 239 B. C. gained a decisive 
 victory over the Gauls who had invaded Mysia, erected on the Acropolis 
 at Athens four groups of marble statues as a votive offering for his deliver- 
 ance. These represented the triumph of civilisation and culture over brute 
 force, as typified in the contests of the Gods and the Giants, the Athenians 
 and the Amazons, the Athenians and Persians at Marathon, and lastly of 
 Attalus himself and the Celts. They have been described by Pausanias 
 (see above). The statues in this museum are undoubtedly parts of the 
 original monument, and there are other figures from it at Borne and Venice. 
 The time when they were brought to Italy is unknown, but cannot have 
 been sooner than the capture of Athens by the Crusaders in 1205. (The 
 exquisite reliefs recently discovered at Pergamus and now at Berlin were 
 erected by Attalus in his own capital in commemoration of the same victory.) 
 
 886. Adonis , freely restored. — *885. Venus of Capua , so called 
 from having been found at Capua in the middle of the 18th century. 
 
 It is uncertain how this statue, which greatly resembles the Venus 
 of Milo in the Louvre, ought to be restored. The arms, the nose, and 
 part of the mantle are modern. On Corinthian coins Venus, the tutelary 
 goddess of the city, is represented in a similar attitude, in the act of 
 using a shield as a mirror, but it is possible that the Capuan statue had 
 a figure of Mars standing beside her, from whom she was taking his sword. 
 It was at one time imagined that a figure of Cupid at the feet of his mother 
 formed part of the original group, but this idea, has been given up. The 
 statue is held to be a work of the Roman period (as the representation of 
 the pupil of the eye indicates), but was probably a copy of a Greek original. 
 
 *884. Aeschines , the Athenian orator (389-314 B. C.) and 
 champion of Philip of Macedon against Demosthenes , a statue 
 found in the Villa of the Papyri at Herculaneum. 
 
 Though the drapery is inferior to that of the admirable statue of 
 Sophocles in the Lateran Collection at Rome, there is little doubt that 
 this is a copy of an old Greek original. It was once erroneously called 
 Aristides, but its resemblance to the hermes of Aeschines with his name 
 attached at the Vatican proves its identity. 
 
 *882. Psyche of Capua , sadly mutilated; she was probably 
 represented with her hands bound behind her, being tortured by 
 Cupid, but the state in which the figure now is makes certainty on 
 this point impossible. — *881. Venus Callipygus , so called from 
 that part of her body towards which she is looking, found in the 
 imperial palaces at Rome ; the head, breast, right leg, right hand, 
 and left arm are modern. 
 
 The adjacent room to the right contains a large basin in por- 
 phyry, valuable columns, a marble basin, etc. — *879. Homer , a 
 beautiful bust, the finest of all the ideal representations of the 
 great poet. 
 
 ‘I must own that nothing has ever given me a higher idea of Grecian 
 sculpture, than the fact that it has been able to conceive and represent these 
 features. A blind poet and minstrel — nothing more — was given. And 
 starting with this simple theme the artist has made the aged brow and 
 cheek instinct with supernatural mental effort and prophetic inspiration, 
 
Museum. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 67 
 
 combined with that perfect serenity which ever characterises the blind. Each 
 stroke of the chisel is full of genius and marvellous vitality 1 . — Burckhcirdt. 
 
 *880. Satyr , carrying the child Bacchus on his shoulder; 
 878. Pallas , archaic, from Yelletri ; 874, 876. Brutus and Pompey, 
 two busts found in a house in Pompeii in 1869 ; 875. Juno; 877. 
 Nereid , on a sea-monster. — *873. Agrippina the Younger, mother 
 of Nero, a sitting portrait-statue, made at an advanced age. 
 
 The artist has almost entirely suppressed the individuality of the 
 notorious wife of Claudius , and has created a figure of great nobility. 
 The face expresses mournful reflection and resignation. The attitude and 
 mien, like those of the well-known statue of the elder Agrippina in the 
 Roman Capitol, are an admirable example of the way in which noble 
 Roman matrons liked to be represented. The hands are modern. 
 
 *872. Antinous , the favourite of Hadrian. Busts of (870) An- 
 toninus Pius , (869) Plotina, and (868) Caracalla. *867. Torso of 
 Venus , *871. Torso of Bacchus , two genuine Greek works, the 
 Venus probably not much more recent than the Venus of Cnidus 
 by Praxiteles (4th cent. B.C.). 
 
 The Corridor of Portrait Statues and Busts, which wo 
 next enter, is sometimes called the Portico dei Balbi , from the 
 noble family of that name, the most distinguished at Herculaneum. 
 
 To the right, at the N. end of the corridor, torsi, dogs, leopards, 
 boar sacrifices, small equestrian statue of a 'warrior (freely restored). 
 *88. Equestrian Statue of M . Nonius Balbus , found , like that of 
 his son at the opposite end of the passage (No. 68, below), in the 
 basilica of Herculaneum. Farther on, the fourth statue on the left, 
 84. Statue of the Priestess Eumachia of Pompeii , erected by the 
 fullers in her honour (p. 132); 83. Statue of Marcus Holconius 
 Rufus , a Roman military tribune, and five times mayor of Pom- 
 peii; 82, 85. Two orators from Pompeii. — Then Roman Portrait 
 Busts, with pedestals in the Roman style, in two rows, one above 
 the other: in the lower, 109, 110, 111. Three examples of a so- 
 called Seneca; Attilius Regulus ; Brutus the younger; Brutus the 
 elder; in the upper row, Cicero. — Farther on, in the centre, 80. 
 Double herines of an unknown Greek and Roman, and 77. Double 
 hermes of Herodotus and Thucydides . Between these, two sitting 
 statuettes, one of them, 78, representing the poet Moschion. The 
 room containing the Battle of Alexander here opens to the right 
 (see p. 69), in the entrance to which, on the left, is 160. Socrates , 
 a hermes with a Greek inscription. Near the entrance, to the left : 
 *159. M. Nonius Balbus , the father; *158. Viciria Archas, the 
 wife of Balbus, a stately matron. Farther on, to the left, 71-75, 
 a son and four daughters, on the same pedestal (a fifth daughter of 
 the group is in the Dresden Museum). All of these are honorary 
 statues which the municipal council of Herculaneum erected to the 
 family in the theatre. — Next come two rows of Greek Busts, 
 one above the other, in the Greek hermal form. Below, 166, 168, 
 169. Euripides ; 170. Socrates ; 171. Aratus , the astronomer; 172, 
 Zeno; 174. Poseidonius ; 176. Sophocles ; 178. Carneades ; 179. 
 
 5 * 
 
68 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 Herodotus; 180. Lysias; 182. Agathocles. Above, 185. Tliemisto- 
 cles ; 186. Periander ; 187. Solon ; 200. Demosthenes. (Many of 
 the busts, both Greek and Roman, are either unknown or errone- 
 ously named.) — *68. Equestrian Statue of Balbus the Younger , 
 ‘praetor and proconsul’. — Genre figures of children; a hunter. 
 Several Dacians from the Forum of Trajan at Rome ; two barbarians 
 as supporters, in pavonazetto, the bead and bands in basalt. 
 
 We now pass by the statue of the younger Balbus into the — 
 
 Corridor, of the Roman Emperors (Portico degli Imperadori), 
 the arrangement of which begins at the farther end, by the en- 
 trance from the passage. It contains statues and busts in chrono- 
 logical order, of a more or less ideal character. Left, *67. Cae- 
 sar, a bust. Right, 1. Statue of Caesar. L. 66. Augustus, a statue, 
 sitting; 65. Livia; 63. Tiberius , a bust; 62. Drusus , a statue from 
 Pompeii; 60. Caligula , with reliefs on his armour; 59. Claudius , 
 a sitting statue ; 57. Nero, a bust ; 56. Vitellius, a statue ; 55. 
 Claudius, \ 54. Otho, busts ; 53. Titus , a colosssal bust. R. 15. 
 Vespasian, a colossal bust. L. 50. Trajan , a statue ; 49. Plotina, 
 a bust. R. 14, 16. Hadrian , busts. L. 48. Hadrian, bust; 46. 
 Antoninus Pius, 45. Marcus Aurelius, 44. Faustina , busts ; 43. 
 LuciusVerus, a statue. Then, 38. Septimius Severus, 32. Probus, etc. 
 
 The Seven Rooms beyond the Portico dei Balbi also have 
 their contents arranged according to subjects. Among much that 
 is mediocre there are a few works of great excellence. The ar- 
 rangement begins with the gods , in the room opposite the en- 
 trance to the collection of bronzes (p. 70). 
 
 I. Room : Jupiter, Juno, Apollo, Diana, Ceres. In the centre, 
 225. Apollo , in a sitting posture, in porphyry, the head and hands 
 in marble; a work of the decline of art during the imperial period, 
 when a taste prevailed for rare kinds of stone which were difficult 
 to work. Right: 228. Diana of Ephesus , in yellow alabaster, the 
 head, hands, and feet in bronze ; her symbols indicate the fecundity 
 of the goddess of nature. Left : 244. Apollo, in basalt. Posterior 
 wall: *240. Jupiter, a bust from the temple of Pompeii (p. 133); 
 239. Jupiter, colossal half-statue from Cumae; on the right, 232. 
 Hermes of the ram-horned Jupiter Ammon. 
 
 II. Room: Yenus, Mars, Mercury, Minerva, Bacchus. Among 
 the numerous Statues of Venus (eight from Pompeii, including 276, 
 a statuette found in 1873, interesting from its being painted) are 
 several with portrait-heads. In the centre, 254. Mars, sitting. 275. 
 Mercury. 
 
 III. Room: Satyrs, Ganymede, Cupid, Cybele, etc. — Left: 
 Satyr with a bunch of grapes; *343. Pan teaching the flute; 317, 
 322. Ganymede with the eagle ; *320. Winged Cupid, supposed 
 to be a replica of an original by Praxiteles. In the centre : 298. 
 Cupid encircled by a dolphin, fountain-figure ; 297. Atlas, bearing 
 the globe; 314. Paris ; *312. JEsculapius , from Rome. On the 
 
Museum . 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 69 
 
 short wall : Masks of river-gods, once used as water-spouts. 307. 
 Nymph before the bath. Three Priestesses of Isis. 301. Cyhele , 
 the mother of the gods, enthroned. 
 
 IV. Room : Statues of Muses from Herculaneum and Rome ; 
 several figures of Hercules. By the window, 366. Head of Ajax. 
 In the centre, 349. Amazon , falling from her horse ; *350. Hercules 
 and Omphale , a group in the genre style ; 351. Roman Soldier , an 
 equestrian statue. 
 
 V. Hall of the Flora. By the principal wall : *384. The 
 Farnese Flora , found in the Baths of Caracalla at Rome, at the 
 same time as the Hercules and the Bull (p. 64). It is probably a 
 work of the early Roman empire, when the dubious taste for repro- 
 ducing smaller Greek originals on a colossal scale had already 
 manifested itself. The figure, however, is charming in spite of its 
 huge proportions. As the head, arms, and feet were missing when 
 the statue was found, and were restored by Giacomo della Porta, 
 and afterwards by Albaccini and Taglioni, it is not improbable that 
 the figure once represented a Yenus instead of a Flora. It has also 
 been suggested that it may be a ‘Hora’, a ‘Dancing Muse’, or a 
 ‘Hebe’. — In front of it is the **Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander , 
 found in 1831 in the house of the Faun at Pompeii. This work, 
 which is almost the only ancient historical composition in existence, 
 represents the battle at the moment when Alexander, whose helmet 
 has fallen from his head , charges Darius with his cavalry, and 
 transfixes the general of the Persians who has fallen from his 
 wounded horse. The chariot of the Persian monarch is prepared 
 for retreat, whilst in the foreground a Persian of rank, in order to 
 ensure the more speedy escape of the king, who is absorbed in 
 thought at the sight of his expiring general, offers him his horse 
 (Introd. p. xli). — Also four statues of gladiators. 
 
 YI. Room : Reliefs. In the centre, *387. a beautiful *Marble 
 Vase with a relief : Mercury, followed by dancing Bacchanalian 
 figures, gives the young Bacchus to a nymph to be brought up. 
 According to the inscription it is the work of a certain Salpion of 
 Athens ; it was found at Formia , and was long used as a font in 
 the cathedral of Gaeta (comp. Introd., p. xxxiii). The traditions 
 of a more archaic style have been applied here with great adroit- 
 ness. — To the left of the entrance, also on a pedestal, 390. a 
 fountain enclosure with seven gods : Jupiter, Mars, Apollo, TEscu- 
 lapius, Bacchus, Hercules, and Mercury. There are also three other 
 fountain enclosures in the centre. • — 'By the wall, to the left of the 
 entrance , 657. an early Attic Cippus , of the middle of the 5th 
 century. Then a beautiful Trapezophorus (pedestal of a table), with 
 Centaur and Nereid; also sarcophagi , fountain-masks , and numer- 
 ous oscilla , or reversible marble discs and masks, which used to 
 be hung up by way of ornament between the columns of peristyles. 
 
 VII. Room: Reliefs. Left: *673. Aphrodite, seconded by Peitho 
 
Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum,. 
 
 (persuasion), endeavouring to induce Helen to follow Paris (Alexan- 
 dra), who with Cupid stands before her, a Greek work; 676. 
 Bacchanal ; *679. Youth with three maidens, usually termed Apollo 
 with the Graces (or Alcibiades with three hetaerae) ; 669. Sarcopha- 
 gus : Bacchanalian procession. — On the pillar between the win- 
 dows : 695. Gladiator contests from the monument of Scaurus at 
 Pompeii (p. 138); 694. Sarcophagus with Prometheus and man as 
 yet uninspired with life, surrounded by beneficent gods. — Third 
 wall : 704. Tropaeum, framed with Caryatides. Above : Banchetto 
 d’Icario , or Bacchus feasting with the Attic prince Icarius, the 
 legendary founder of the Satyric drama (‘Drama Satyrikon’); the 
 train of the god includes the muse Melpomene , Silenus , and 
 several Satyrs. Above: Cupids in the circus. — 710. Nymph defend- 
 ing herself against a satyr. 713. Seven Nymphs , with names at- 
 tached : Euphrosyne, Aglaia, Thalia, Ismene, Cycais, Eranno, and 
 Telonnesus. Below, a Bacchanalian procession. *714. Orpheus and 
 Eurydice , with Hermes, in the infernal regions (see Introd., p. xxx). 
 — Fourth wall : Sarcophagi. 733, 742, 755. Three representations 
 of Asiatic provinces. — In the centre : 664. Honorary Pedestal 
 from Pozzuoli , with figures representing fourteen towns of Asia 
 Minor which the Emp. Tiberius rebuilt after an earthquake, each 
 figure being furnished with its name. In the middle, two large 
 Candelabra , with herons, and two Bacchic * Vases, 
 
 In the adjoining Passage are handsome ornamental works in 
 marble : *Tables with basins for fountains ; candelabra , among 
 which is a *Stooping Sphinx from Pompeii ; feet of tables ; tables. — 
 From this passage we again enter the Portico dei Balbi (see p. 67). 
 
 At the S. end of the Portico dei Balbi is the entrance to the 
 **Collection of Bronzes, most of which are from Herculaneum, and 
 a few only from Pompeii. Their respective origins are distinguished 
 by their different colours. The bronzes of Herculaneum are of a 
 dark, black-green hue, while those of Pompeii, which were much 
 more exposed to moisture, are oxydised, and of a light, bluish green 
 colour. This collection is unrivalled, and deserves careful and re- 
 peated inspection. The number and magnitude of the works, the 
 delicate treatment adapted to the material, and the skilful mastery 
 of every kind of difficulty in casting and chiselling afford an ex- 
 cellent insight into the high development of this branch of art 
 in ancient times. 
 
 I. Room : Animals. 2. Colossal horse’s head, found at Naples, 
 formerly in the Pal. Colobrano (S. Angelo), and long supposed to 
 be the cognisance of the city. It belonged to a horse which is said 
 to have stood in the vestibule of the temple of Neptune (S. Gen- 
 naro), and to have been destroyed by the clergy on account of the 
 veneration with which it was regarded. *1. Horse from Hercula- 
 neum, belonging to a quadriga, and reconstructed from minute 
 fragments. 3, 4. Two deer. 14, 15, 16. Boar attacked by two dogs. 
 
Museum. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 71 
 
 Several animals once used as fountain-figures. — In the corners 
 of the room : by the entrance, to the left, and by the opposite exit, 
 two Greek Hermes, perhaps intended for a palaestra, the projecting 
 props being for the support of wreaths. The first bears the name 
 of the sculptor, Apollonius, son of Archias of Athens. At the 
 entrance, on the right, 19. So-called Sappho ; opposite, *20. Diana 
 Shooting , a half-figure. 
 
 II. Room: Statuettes. In the centre: 61. Bacchus with a Satyr 
 (eyes inserted, as in many of the others). Two equestrian statuettes. 
 58. Amazon ; 57. Alexander the Great. *59. Venus arranging her 
 hair, originally with a mirror in her left hand. 60. Flying Victory , 
 on a globe. 62. Angling Fisherman, a fountain-figure. 63. Boy with 
 goose . — Beyond the last, **51. Dancing Faun, marking the time 
 by snapping his fingers, found in 1853 in the large house at Pom- 
 peii called the ‘Casa del Fauno’ (p. 141). — In front of it, **55. 
 So-called **Narcissus , perhaps a Pan listening to Echo, one of 
 the most charming antique statues extant , both in conception and 
 execution, found at Pompeii in 1862. *56. Silenus, used as the 
 bearer of a vase (with handle very unsuitably made in imitation of 
 the body of a serpent), found at Pompeii in 1864; the air of 
 exertion is admirably lifelike. — To the right of the right entrance 
 to the following room : 54. Hermes of L. Caecilius Jucundus, a 
 Pompeian banker (see p. 143), erected by his freedman Felix. — 
 The window-cabinet contains a number of Boys with pipes or masks, 
 once used as fountain-figures. Silenus with a panther. Youthful 
 Bacchus. In the middle, bust of Galba, in silver. — In the cabinet 
 to the right beyond the window are all kinds of Fancy Figures, 
 chiefly gladiators. Small Busts: Demosthenes, Epicurus, Zeno, 
 Augustus. Hands with quaint emblems, used as amulets to avert 
 the danger of the ‘evil eye’. Above these, Lares (household gods), 
 youths adorned with wreaths and bearing drinking-horns and vases. 
 — Opposite the window : Statuettes of Gods : Hercules, Victoria, 
 Fortuna, Bacchus, Mercury, Minerva, Jupiter, etc. — Wall of the 
 entrance : Etruscan Mirrors , the backs adorned with engraved scenes. 
 
 III. Principal Room. In the centre : *48. Drunken Faun. On 
 each side (Nos. 42, 45) a copy of the statue of a Runner, or, more 
 probably, two Wrestlers about to engage. To the right beyond 
 these : *40. Apollo playing the lyre , from Pompeii, a work of the 
 archaistic school of Pasiteles, about the beginning of the Empire. 
 To the left beyond it, 41. Apollo Shooting . On the right before 
 the latter, *46. Head of Apollo in the archaic style. **44. Mercury 
 Reposing, a beautiful picture of elastic youth at a moment of 
 relaxation ; the wings attached to the feet and the remains of the 
 caduceus in the hand identify the messenger of the gods. To the 
 left before the last : *47. Head of Seneca, so called, but probably 
 the head of a bearded barbarian. *43. Sleeping Satyr. — Along 
 the walls, beginning on the right by the entrance near the window : 
 
72 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum, 
 
 26. Statue of Nero Drusus , sacrificing; 27. Bust of the youthful 
 Hercules (formerly called Marcellus) ; 28. Apollo , a statuette ; 29. 
 Female Portrait-statue ; *30. Sacrificing Boy (camillus). — Farther 
 on : 31. Bust of Sulla (?); 32. Female Portrait-statue (Livia, con- 
 sort of Augustus). Between the doors, on a truncated column, 33. 
 So-called Archytas of Tarentum, with a fillet round his head ; above 
 it, on a bracket, 34. Ptolemy Philadelphus. *35-37. Three Dancing 
 Women , from the theatre of Herculaneum (three corresponding 
 figures on the opposite side). On a short column, 30. Heraclitus (?) 
 the philosopher. On a bracket above it, 39. Male Portrait-head. — N. 
 Wall : 6. Male Portrait-head ; 7. So-called Antonia , wife of Drusus, 
 a statue ; *8. Female Head with hair restored (erroneously called 
 Ptolemy Apion) ; 9. Statue of a Roman Magistrate. — 10. Portrait- 
 head; 11. Statue of Augustus as Jupiter; 12. Portrait-head ; 13. 
 Statue of Claudius. *14. So-called Head of Berenice , admirably 
 modelled (eyes and lips lined with silver when discovered). 15. 
 Roman Magistrate ; 16. Portrait head; 17. Female Portrait- statue 
 as a ‘Pieta’, from Herculaneum (mother of Balbus?). 18. Portrait- 
 head. — Farther on, on a short column between the doors, *19. De- 
 mocritus (?). On a console, 20. Lepidus. 21, 22, 23. Three Dancing 
 Women from Herculaneum (see above). On a short column, *24. 
 Head of Dionysus , probably the finest embodiment of the ideal of 
 the older, bearded, or Indian Bacchus (comp, the relief, ‘Banchetto 
 d’lcario’, p. 70), as already accepted in the 6th cent. B.C. ; this 
 head was formerly called Plato, from its resemblance to the genuine 
 busts of that philosopher. Above it: *25. Young Tiberius. 
 
 IV. Room: Weapons. In the centre, *5. Equestrian Statue of 
 Nero , found at Pompeii (p. 135). By the window : 3. Bust of Scipio 
 Africanus. Opposite, 4. Bust ofC . Caesar. — The cabinets contain a 
 choice Collection of Weapons (detailed descriptions hung up at the 
 entrance). — E. Wall : Greek armour, helmets, and weapons, found 
 at Psestum, Ruvo, and Canosa. — N. Wall: Helmets of gladiators 
 and richly decorated armour from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Above 
 these, 283. Helmet with the Taking of Troy ; 288. Shield with head 
 of the Medusa. — W. Wall : Italian weapons ; among them a cock, 
 a Samnite boundary figure from Pietrabbondante (Bovianum). — 
 S. Wall. Catapult balls, etc. 
 
 B. Entresol. 
 
 The Entresol (Ital. Mezzanino) contains on the right the Re- 
 naissance objects , and beyond them the ancient crystals and 
 terracottas, on the left the Cumcean collection and the ‘Controlleria’, 
 or inspector’s office. 
 
 The Collection of Renaissance Works (Raccolta degli Oggetti 
 del Cinquecento ) is arranged in two rooms, which were restored in 
 1880. — I. Room. In the centre : a large bronze tabernacle, the 
 design ascribed to Michael Angelo , executed by Jacopo Siciliano. 
 
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 PRIMP PIANO . 
 
Museum . 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 73 
 
 Left : bust in bronze of Ferdinand of Arragon. Busts in marble of 
 Paul III. and Charles V. Right : Medusa after Canova. An altar 
 with reliefs in marble of the German school, representing the 
 Passion in seven sections. — II. Room : Indian and Chinese 
 paintings, and other Asiatic curiosities. The cabinets contain 
 weapons, seals, carved amber and ivory, etc. — To the right of the 
 entrance into the following room are mural paintings from Pompeii, 
 representing the fight between the Pompeians and Nucerines in 
 the amphitheatre (p. 125). 
 
 The next room contains the Collection of Ancient Crystal 
 
 (Vetri) y the most extensive of the kind in existence, showing the 
 numerous ways in which it was used by the ancients. Several panes 
 of glass from the villa of Diomedes should be inspected ; also a 
 beautifully cut-glass *Vase with white Cupids and foliage on a 
 blue ground, discovered in 1837 in a tomb in the Street of the 
 Tombs at Pompeii , when it was filled with ashes. By the wall 
 facing the window, to the right, are some medicine-phials from 
 Pompeii. 
 
 Adjacent is the Collection of Ancient Terracottas. — I. Room: 
 Common earthenware articles for household use. Among them 
 are vessels with beans, wheat, almonds, egg-shells, plums, 
 olives , etc. from Pompeii. In the middle, ^Statuette in a sit- 
 ting a ^sture of a bearded man with a tragic aspect, from Pom- 
 peii. In the passage to the second room, on the left Artemis, right 
 Medusa. — II. Room. Several Etruscan sarcophagi with recumbent 
 figures on the lids. Numerous lamps. In the cabinets figures of 
 small animals : horses, pigs, birds, also hands and other votive- 
 offerings, such as are still to be seen in Roman Catholic churches : 
 infant in swaddling-clothes, legs, right half of a human figure. 
 By the Lidow, to the right, a colossal Juno ; left, Jupiter from 
 the small + emple of JEsculapius at Pompeii (p. 148). By the door 
 of egress, to the right, the fragments of the celebrated Volscian 
 relief from Yelletri , in the ancient Italian style, with traces of 
 colouring: warriors on horseback and in chariots. — III. Room: 
 Lamps, goblets, votive limbs ; in the cabinets opposite the door 
 interesting heads, detached, and in relief, also statuettes. By the 
 window two comic figures, in front of them a small painted statu- 
 ette. By the Nvindow-wall, to the right, Etruscan cists; to the 
 left, Drinking- vessels. By the wall of egress, fine reliefs and 
 statuettes in terracotta; also moulds employed in their execution. 
 
 The central story contains , on the left , the Cumsean Col- 
 lection, which was purchased by the Prince of Carignano from 
 the heirs of the Count of Syracuse and presented to the Museum. 
 It consists chief! of vases, terracottas, and bronzes found at Cumse 
 (see p. 105). B> the window of the First Room an elegant jewel- 
 casket in wood, with several gold ornaments. In the Second Room 
 tables with small objects in bronze, gold, and crystal ; an interest- 
 
7 4 Route 4 . 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 ing head in wax from a Roman tomb. Among the vases at the 
 window is a fine specimen of the later Attic style, under glass, 
 representing a battle between Amazons and Greeks. 
 
 C. Upper Floor. 
 
 From the top of the stairs we first turn to the left to the 
 E. wing. On opposite sides of the passage which we enter are 
 two rooms containing Copies of Pompeian Pictures, Remains of 
 Food, and other objects from Pompeii. 
 
 The copies of Pompeian pictures merit careful inspection, as they 
 serve to convey an idea of the brilliant colouring of these ancient walls 
 when they were first discovered. The Room on the Left also contains 
 several glass cabinets with * Articles of Food and Objects in Common Use 
 at Pompeii. In the centre a handsome bottle with oil. In the round 
 glass cabinet by the window : below, a double pan with meat ; in the 
 centre a glass vessel with barley-, above, glass tubes with olives. — In 
 the glass cases to the right, beyond the window: net-work and netting- 
 needles, bones, eggs, remains of fish, almonds, onions, dates, nuts, pears, 
 etc. -, also fifteen round loaves, one of which bears the baker’s name, Q. 
 Cranius, stamped upon it. In the glass cases to the right of the en- 
 trance : snails’ and other shells , tortoises , clothing materials , straw 
 sandals, purse with three coins (from the Villa ofDiomedes), corks, net- 
 work, etc. 
 
 In the Room on the Right: a glass cabinet containing the skull, 
 arm, and impression of the breast in compressed ashes , of a girl, found 
 in the Villa of Diomedes. "Model in wood of the ‘House of the Tragic 
 Poet’ at Pompeii (p. 135). Models of the amphitheatres of Pompeii and 
 Capua. Models of the temples of Psestum. 
 
 Next, on the right, is the Library of the Papyri. 
 
 This collection was discovered in a villa near Herculaneum in 1752. 
 The rolls were completely encrusted with carbonaceous matter, and it 
 was only by slow degrees that the real value of the discovery was 
 appreciated. About 3000 were discovered, of which 1800 only have been 
 preserved. The thin layers of the bark (libri) of the papyrus plant, each 
 of the breadth of one column of writing, are pasted together and rolled 
 on rods, and the difficulties encountered in disengaging them may be 
 imagined. The task was long attempted in vain , until the Padre Piaggi 
 invented an ingenious machine by which the difficulty was removed. 
 Several of these may be seen at work in the second room. About six 
 hundred of ?these libri have been by degrees unrolled, and whatever of 
 their contents has escaped obliteration has been published in the Volumina 
 Heracleensia. The library belonged to a follower of the Epicurean school, 
 and the recovered MSS. are by no means of general interest. They con- 
 tain treatises in Greek by the Epicurean Philodemus, a contemporary of 
 Cicero, on nature, music, rhetoric, etc. — Here, in a separate room, are 
 also preserved the triptvchs (about 300) found in a carbonised box at Pom- 
 mpeii in June 1875, containing receipts for money advanced by L. Cse- 
 cilius Jucundtis, a Pompeian banker (comp. p. 143). 
 
 In the room opposite copies of paintings are kept for sale. 
 
 Following the passage in a straight direction, we next enter 
 the *First Section of the Picture Gallery, containing paintings 
 of the Italian schools (the Neapolitan excepted), and including 
 several of the finest works in the collection. Catalogues at the en- 
 trance of each room. 
 
 I. Room (Roman School). *5. Claude , Quay at sunset; 12. 
 School of Raphael (?), Female Portrait ; 27 . Sassoferrato, Adoration 
 
Museum. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 75 
 
 of the Shepherds ; 28. School of Raphael , Madonna delle Grazie ; 
 47. Pannini , Charles III. entering St. Peter’s at Rome; 51. R. 
 Mengs , Ferdinand IV. at the age of twelve; 53. Pannini , Charles III. 
 visiting Benedict XIV. 
 
 II. Room (Schools of Parma and Genoa). 2. Bernardo Strozzi, 
 
 Portrait of a Capuchin; 10. Parmigianino , Holy Family; 11. 
 School of Correggio (?), Study of a head ; 12. Parmigianino , Ma- 
 
 donna and Child; 15, 20, 35, 37. Other examples of Parmigianino. 
 
 III. Room (Schools of Lomhardy and Parma). School of Leo- 
 nardo , 11. John the Baptist, 15. Madonna with two donors of the 
 picture; 16. Parmigianino , SS. Clara and Ciborius; 17. Cesare 
 da Sesto , Adoration of the Magi , one of the master’s chief works 
 (from Messina) ; *18. Leonardo's School (not Boltraffio), The young 
 Christ and John kissing each other; 19. Same School, Madonna. 
 
 IV. Room (Venetian School). 1. Alwise Vivarini , Madonna 
 with two saints (1485) ; *5. Bartol. Vivarini , Madonna enthroned 
 with saints (1465) ; 7. Ascribed to Giorgione (erroneously, accord- 
 ing to Mr. Crowe), Portrait of a Prince Antonello of Salerno (?) ; 10, 
 13, 17, 25. Bern . Belotto , Architectural pieces ; 11. Jac. Bassano, 
 Venetian lady; *15. Sebastian del Piombo , Pope Clement VII., 
 sketch on slate ; 19. After Titian , Pope Paul III. (Farnese), possibly 
 an original, but much damaged; *20. Titian , Pope Paul III. with 
 Cardinal Alessandro and Ottavio Farnese, full of life, although 
 somewhat sketchily handled; 23. Titian , Portrait of Alessandro 
 Farnese, damaged; 24. In the style of Titian , Charles V. ; *32. 
 Moretto , Christ scourged, a fine and carefully modelled little 
 picture; 40. School of Mantegna, Suffering of Christ; *46. Man- 
 tegna , St. Euphemia; 56. Lor. Lotto , Madonna with St. Peter 
 Martyr. — Proceeding hence in a straight direction we reach the 
 7th and 8th, and, turning to the right, the 5th and 6th rooms. 
 
 V. Room. 1. Salvator Rosa , Christ and the Doctors in the 
 Temple; 2. Seb. del Piombo , Holy Family, executed under the in- 
 fluence of Michael Angelo and Raphael (unfinished); *3. Correggio , 
 Madonna, named la Zingarella (gipsy, from the headgear) or del 
 Coniglio (rabbit), a charming idyllic composition , painted about 
 1520 ; 4. Ant. van Dyck , Portrait ; *5. Titian , Danae, painted at 
 Rome in 1545, a voluptuous work, showing the master — at sixty- 
 eight — « still triumphing over every difficulty of art and possessed 
 of all his youthful vigour ; 6. Correggio (?), The Child Christ asleep. 
 
 *7. Correggio , Betrothal of St. Catharine with the Infant Christ. 
 
 This work, painted in 1517-18, is known as ‘II piccolo Sposalizio 1 in 
 contra-distinction to the picture at the Louvre. ‘The religious meaning 
 of the legend has sunk entirely into the background-, the idea of the 
 ecstatic vision of the Virgin saint, in which the betrothal symbolises the 
 renunciation of the present and consecration for eternity, is lost in a 
 cheerful scene of natural life 1 . — 4 Correggio by Dr. Julius Meyer. 
 
 *8. Titian , Pope Paul III., painted in 1543, and in excellent 
 preservation. 
 
76 Route d. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 ‘The pontiffs likeness is that of a strong man, gaunt and dry from 
 age .... A forehead high and endless, a nose both long and slender, 
 expanding to a flat drooping bulb with flabby nostrils overhanging the 
 mouth, an eye peculiarly small and bleary, a large and thin-lipped 
 mouth, display the character of Paul Farnese as that of a fox whose 
 wariness could seldom be at fault. The height of his frame, its size 
 and sinew, still give him an imposing air, to which Titian has added 
 by drapery admirable in its account of the under forms, splendid in 
 the contrasts of its reds in velvet chair and silken stole and rochet, 
 and subtle in the delicacy of its lawn whites.... The quality of life 
 and pulsation so often conveyed in Titian’s pictures is here in its highest 
 development .... Both face and hands are models of execution, models 
 of balance of light and shade and harmonious broken tones’. — ‘ Titian \ 
 by Crowe & Cavalcciselle. 
 
 Ascribed to Correggio (erroneously), 9. Sketch of a Descent 
 from the Cross; 10. Madonna and Child. 
 
 *11. Titian , Philip II., probably painted in 1552-3 from a 
 sketch made at Augsburg in 1550 by order of Charles V. 
 
 The first painting from this sketch was sent to England to assist 
 Philip in his suit for the hand of Mary Tudor, and is now at Madrid; the 
 Naples picture is the second version, and is hardly inferior to the first. 
 
 Ribera , 12. St. Sebastian, 13. St. Jerome listening to the 
 trumpet of judgment, 14. St. Jerome; 15. Quercino , Magdalene; 
 16. Rubens , Monk. 
 
 VI. Room is devoted to the Collection of Engravings 
 (formed of the Firmian collection), consisting of 19,300 examples 
 in 227 portfolios, which are exhibited by the custodian on appli- 
 cation. This room also contains an admirable *Bust of Dante in 
 bronze, said to have been modelled from a cast taken from the 
 poet’s features after death, and three busts of Pope Paul IV. (Ca- 
 raffa) by Giuliano della Porta . On the walls are hung several 
 ^Drawings and sketches by great masters, among which may be 
 mentioned : Michael Angelo , Group from the frescoes in the Cappella 
 Paolina at Rome ; Raphael , Madonna col divino amore (see below); 
 Michael Angelo , Yenus and Cupid; Raphael , Moses at the burning 
 bush. 
 
 VII. Room. 1. Ann. Carracci , Pieta(copy); 2. Schidone , St. 
 Sebastian ; 3. Jac. Bassano , Raising of Lazarus ; *5. Giulio Ro- 
 mano , Holy Family, called Madonna del Gatto; 6. Parmigianino , 
 Madonna (‘a tempera’); *7. Giov. Bellini, Transfiguration, with 
 beautiful landscape; 10. Marcello Venusti , Copy of Michael An- 
 gelo’s Last Judgment, before its disfigurement; *11. Perugino , 
 Madonna; 12. Andrea del $ar£o(?), Pope Clement VII.; 15. Luini , 
 Madonna; *16. Giov . Bellini , Portrait; *17. Raphael (?), Portrait 
 of the Cavaliere Tibaldeo. 
 
 *19. Andrea del Sarto , Copy of Raphael’s portrait of Leo X., 
 with Cardinals Giulio de’ Medici and Rossi (1524). 
 
 This admirable copy was sent by Clement VII. to the Marcliese 
 Federigo Gonzaga of Mantua instead of the original he had promised (now 
 in the Pitti at Florence), and afterwards came to Naples. Even Giulio 
 Romano was deceived, till his attention was directed to a sign made on 
 the copy by Andrea del Sarto to distinguish the two works. Messrs. 
 
Museum. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route . 77 
 
 Crowe and Cavalcaselle miss in this work ‘the perfect keeping, ease, 
 grandeur, modelling, and relief of form’, which characterise the original. 
 
 *21. Raphael (?), Portrait of Cardinal Passerini; *22. Raphael , 
 Holy Family (Madonna col divino amore), of the master’s Roman 
 period; 24. Pietro Novelli , snrnamed Monrealese , Trinity; 26. 
 Garofalo , Descent from the Cross ; *28. Palma Vecchio , Madonna 
 with St. Jerome, John the Baptist, and donors, the most successful 
 of the master’s ‘holy conversations’, a noble composition sparkling 
 with light in the dresses and landscape (C. & C.) ; 30. Domeni- 
 chino, Guardian angel ; 31. Bronzino , Holy Family; *32. Claude , 
 Landscape, with accessories by Lauri; 34. Pinturicchio , As- 
 sumption; 36. Titian, Repentant Magdalene ; 40. Leandro B assano, 
 Portrait of a Farnese ; 41. Parmigianino , Portrait; 43. Guercino , 
 St. Francis of Assisi ; 44. Andrea da Salerno, St. Benedict enthroned 
 between SS. Placidus and Maurus, below the four great Church 
 Fathers ; 47. Guido Rent, Race between Atalanta and Hippomenes ; 
 49. Bourguignon, Battle; 51. Jac. Bassano, Raising of Lazarus; 
 52. Mignard, Portrait of a prelate; 53. School of Andrea del Sarto, 
 Architect (Bramante?) showing a design to a nobleman; 55. Salv. 
 Rosa, Battle ; 57. Seb. del Piombo, Portrait of Pope Hadrian VI. of 
 Utrecht (1522-23) ; 58. Tintoretto, Don John of Austria ; 59. Ribera, 
 Silenus and satyrs; 61. Fra Bartolommeo, Assumption (1516). 
 
 VIII. Room. 4. Crayon copy of Velazquez's ‘Drinkers’, at Ma- 
 drid; 11. Guido Reni, The Seasons; 24. Bronzino, Cupid and 
 Bacchante. 
 
 Returning to the exit, we may obtain, to the left, in passing, 
 a glimpse through the central staircase at the principal hall of the 
 
 Library . 
 
 The collection embraces about 200,000 printed volumes and 4000 MSS. 
 Catalogues for the use of visitors, by Cirillo and Jannelli. Besides numerous 
 ancient Italian works there are several valuable Greek and Latin MSS. 
 (Greek, Lycophron’s Alexandra, Quintus Smyrnseus, date 1311, etc.; Latin, 
 Charisius, Ars grammatica, the half burned MS. of Festus, a mass-book 
 with beautiful miniatures of fruit and flowers , called la Flora, etc.). In 
 the principal hall the custodian awakens a remarkably fine echo. Books 
 are not lent out , but within the library three may be used at a time 
 (9-3 o’clock). Readers enter from the street (not through the museum) by 
 the last door in the building, and ascend by the staircase to the right. 
 
 The W. half of the Upper Floor, reached from the Grand Stair- 
 case by ascending to the right, contains the precious relics, coins, 
 half of the pictures, vases, and small bronzes. 
 
 From the passage at the head of the staircase we turn to the 
 right into a room containing the collection of Gold and Silver 
 Ornaments and Gems. 
 
 By the Window, the celebrated *Tazza Farnese, a vessel of 
 onyx with beautiful reliefs, the largest of its kind. On the out- 
 side a large Medusa’s head in relief; in the inside a group of seven 
 persons, referred by some to the occasion of an inundation of the 
 Nile, by others to a festival in spring, instituted by Alexander at 
 the foundation of Alexandria. 
 
7 8 Route 4 . 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum . 
 
 Tables in the Centre. The first near the window contains 
 the Cameos , or stones cut in relief, many of which are very inter- 
 esting : *16. Zeus in conflict with the Titans, by Anthemion ; 32. 
 Head of Medusa ; 44. A fine head of Augustus ; 65. Part of the 
 group of the Farnese hull, said to have been used as a model at its 
 restoration; below it, 1857. Head of a Yestal. — Adjacent are the 
 Intagli , or stones on which the designs recede (so placed that the 
 designs are seen through the stone) : 209. Ajax and Cassandra ; 
 213. Apollo and Marsyas; *392. Bacchante. — A table in the next 
 row also contains cameos and intaglios. — There is also an in- 
 teresting table containing ancient Rings , including a gold ring 
 with a male portrait, possibly of Brutus, with the artist’s name 
 Anaxilas. 
 
 Three Cabinets by the wall to the right of the entrance contain 
 well-executed Objects in Silver : Vases, goblets, tablets, spoons, 
 buckles; also objects in ivory, medallion reliefs, etc. In the 1st 
 Cabinet, six fine large vases. In the 2nd Cabinet, in the second 
 compartment, six goblets with foliage, and a small sun-dial. In 
 the 3rd Cabinet , in the upper compartment, vase in the shape 
 of a mortar, with the apotheosis of Homer; three handsome 
 tripods; rings from Greek tombs at Armento in the Basilicata; 
 silver plate from the house of Meleager at Pompeii, including two 
 handsome goblets with centaurs. 
 
 Along the opposite wall, Objects in Gold. 1st Cabinet by the 
 window, above, on the right: Nos. 1-4. Chain, bracelet, and a 
 pair of earrings which were found with a female skeleton in the 
 house of Diomedes at Pompeii ; then, 186, 187. Two cloak-clasps ; 
 two massive buckles in the form of serpents ; diadem from Venosa ; 
 handsome necklaces, etc. Adjacent, on a column, under glass : 
 large gold lamp from Pompeii, admirably executed and well pre- 
 served. On a second column , also under glass : *Gold trinkets 
 from a tomb at Taranto. Between the columns, gold ornaments 
 from Pompeii, some of them embellished with pearls and precious 
 stones. In the 2nd Cabinet, numerous gold rings, earrings, objects 
 in crystal, etc. 
 
 The next door to the right leads to the Reserved Cabinet (Rac- 
 colta Pornografica ), to which men only are admitted ; it contains 
 mural and other paintings not adapted for public exhibition, and 
 numerous bronzes, some of them of considerable artistic merit. 
 
 Opposite the collection of Precious Relics , on the left side 
 of the passage, is the Collection of Coins (Medagliere), which is 
 of almost unrivalled value and extent. 
 
 The First Room contains the Greek , the Second and Third the Ro- 
 man , the Fourth the mediaeval coins , and the Fifth the dies of the 
 Neapolitan mint, together with a numismatic library. Catalogues are 
 placed over the glass-cases for the use of visitors. In the corners: 
 Busts of distinguished numismatists. — The Museo Santangelo (p. 80) 
 adjoins the 5th room, but is not accessible thence. 
 
Museum . 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route . 79 
 
 We next proceed in a straight direction from the above-named 
 passage to the comparatively uninteresting Second Section of the 
 Picture Gallery, containing works of the Neapolitan, later Italian, 
 and foreign schools. 
 
 Room I. (Bolognese School). 1. Lavinia Fontana , Christ and 
 the Samaritan woman ; 3. Ann. Carracci , Madonna and Child with 
 St. Francis, painted on Oriental agate ; 9. Guido Reni, Ulysses 
 and Nausicaa; 15. Lionello Spada , Cain and Abel; 38. Francesco 
 Romanelli , Sibyl; 43. Ann. Carracci , Caricature of Caravaggio as 
 a savage with a parrot and a dwarf, in the corner Carracci himself ; 
 47. Guercino , Peter weeping; 55. Ann. Carracci , Rinaldo and Ar- 
 mida; 69. M. Caravaggio , Judith and Holophernes ; 71. Ann. Car- 
 racci^ Landscape with St. Eustachius. 
 
 Room II. (Tuscan School). 2. Jac. Pontormo , Copy of a Ma- 
 donna by Andrea del Sarto; 5 . Sodoma, Resurrection of Christ; 
 23. Filippo Mazzuola (of Parma), Pieta, and saints; 27. Lor. di 
 Credi , Nativity; 31. Matteo da Siena, Massacre of the Innocents 
 (dated 1482); 32. Florentine School, Madonna enthroned ; 34. Flo- 
 rentine School, Pope Liberius founding S. Maria Maggiore (ad 
 nives) at Rome; Ang. Bronzino , 42. Young nobleman, 55. Female 
 portrait. 
 
 Room III. (Neapolitan School of the 14th, 15th, and 16th cent- 
 uries). Pietro del Donzello , 1. Christ crucified between the two male- 
 factors, 3. St. Martin ; 7. Antonio Solario, surnamed Lo Zingaro, 
 Madonna and Child under a canopy, surrounded by eight saints ; 
 21, 25, 32. Simone Papa, Crucifixion and Saints; 24. Andrea 
 ( Sabbatini) da Salerno, Miracles of St. Nicholas of Bari, sadly da- 
 maged ; *33. Andrea da Salerno, Adoration of the Magi, marked by 
 all the freshness and grace of the S. Italian school, but also by the 
 characteristically slight attention paid by it to correct handling. — 
 Adjoining the third room are two rooms containing Byzantine and 
 early Tuscan works, most of them badly preserved and freely 
 restored, and Neapolitan paintings of the 13th and 14th centuries. 
 
 Room IY. (Neapolitan School of the 16-18th centuries). 1. Do- 
 menico Gargiulo, surnamed Micco Spadaro , Revolt of Masaniello 
 in the Piazza del Mercato at Naples in 1647 ; 5. Gian Filippo 
 Criscuolo , Adoration of the Magi ; 22, 27, 28, 30. Works by Luca 
 Giordano ; 37. Massimo Stanzioni, Adoration of the Shepherds ; 
 54. L. Giordano, St. Francis Xavier baptizing the Indians (painted 
 in three days); 56. Traversa, Girl with doves; 63. Pacecco di 
 Rosa, Madonna delle Grazie ; 64. Jose Ribera, surnamed Spagno- 
 letto, St. Bruno adoring the Holy Child, on copper; 66. Pietro 
 Novelli, surnamed Monrealese, Judith and Holophernes ; 71. Luca 
 Giordano, Madonna del Rosario, and saints ; 72. Dom. Gargiulo, 
 The smoker; 75. Giordano, Pope Alexander II. consecrating the 
 church of Monte Casino ; 76. Giordano, Christ shown to the people 
 (after Purer). — The large walnut cabinet in the centre of the 
 
80 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 room, adorned with carved reliefs from the life of St. Augustine, 
 dates from the 16th cent, and was formerly in the sacristy of the 
 monastery of S. Agostino degli Scalzi. It contains mediaeval and 
 Renaissance ivory carvings, engraved rock-crystals, miniatures, 
 and the like, most of which were once in possession of the Farnese 
 family. A cabinet by the wall of the exit, from the same church, 
 contains majolicas from Urbino and elsewhere. By the window : 
 the *Cassetta Farnese in gilded silver, executed by Giovanni de 
 Bemardi da Castelbolognese , a goldsmith of Bologna (d. 1555), 
 with six large and beautifully cut stones representing Meleager 
 and Atalanta , Procession of the Indian Bacchus, Circus games, 
 Battle of Amazons, Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithse, Battle of 
 Salamis. — By the other window : Small Diana on the stag, in 
 gilded silver, with clock-work, probably the toy of some juvenile 
 prince. 
 
 Room Y. (German and Flemish Schools). *3. Low German 
 Master (catalogued as Lucas van Leyden ), Adoration of the Magi ; 
 31. Alb. Diirerf?), Nativity; 40. Lucas Cranach , Christ and the 
 adulteress ; 42. Amberger (?), Portrait ; *44. Hubert van Eyck (?), 
 St. Jerome extracting a thorn from the paw of a lion, one of the 
 finest early Flemish paintings in Italy , but not to be ascribed to 
 Hubert with absolute certainty ; 51. Ascribed to Holbein , A cardi- 
 nal ; *53. Low German Master , Crucifixion ; 54. Pieter Brueghel the 
 Elder , Parable of the seven blind men. 
 
 Room YI. (Netherlands Schools): *1. Style of Rembrandt , Por- 
 trait; 12. Ascribed to Van Dyck, Portrait of a nobleman; 17. Rem- 
 brandt (?), Portrait of himself; 19. Frans Snyders , Hunting scene ; 
 36. School of Van Dyck , Crucifix; 61. Collection of miniatures of 
 the House of Farnese; *73. Mich. Mierevelt , Portrait; 78. Ferd. 
 Bol , Portrait; 83. Ascribed to Van Dyck , Portrait of a Princess 
 Egmont ; 89. Yilla Medici at Rome in 1615. — Entrance hence 
 into the collection of bronzes, see p. 82. 
 
 From the 5th Room of the paintings we enter a circular room, 
 the first of the collection of vases (see below), and pass thence 
 to the left into the Museo Santangelo, which occupies three 
 rooms. This museum was formerly in the Pal. Santangelo, but 
 was purchased by the city of Naples in 1865 and placed under the 
 care of the Museo Nazionale. 
 
 1st Room': Vases. In the cabinet in the centre, a vase with Baccha- 
 
 nalian scene. In the middle of the cabinet on the left, Bacchanalian feast 
 with an armed dancing woman. To the right by the window a "Cabinet 
 with drinking-horns (rhyta). 
 
 2nd Room : Terracottas and Small Bronzes. On the left , by the 
 
 entrance, a vase from Nola, with the return of Hephaestus to Olympus. 
 
 3rd Room : Collection of Coins , one of the most extensive in Italy 
 (about 43,000 in number), particularly valuable on account of its ancient Ita- 
 lian specimens. Catalogue by Fiorelli. On the table in the middle of 
 the room an interesting selection of l aes grave 1 and other Italian coins. 
 Also several large vases: by the window a vase with Pelops and (Eno- 
 maus. In the centre a vase with Orpheus in the infernal regions. Oppo- 
 
Museum. NAPLES. 4. Route. 81 
 
 site the entrance, to the right, "'Mercury and Spes, relief - mosaics from 
 Metapontum, unique of their kind. Cock-light. 
 
 We now return to the ** Collection of Vases, which begins 
 with the circular room mentioned above , and occupies seven 
 rooms. It is very extensive and valuable, and is particularly 
 rich in specimens of the handsome vases of Lower Italy. 
 The specimens placed by themselves on short columns are the 
 finest in the collection. — As Greek vase-painting was adopted 
 by the Etruscans and modified according to the national taste, 
 so this branch of art was strongly influenced in Lower Italy, 
 and especially in Apulia, by the peculiar character of its inhab- 
 itants. The vases here are of large and imposing dimensions, 
 and the artists , not satisfied with the decoration of paint- 
 ing alone, have frequently superadded reliefs to adorn the necks 
 and handles. Their aim appears to have been to cover, if pos- 
 sible , the entire surface of thd vase with the colours. The 
 different series of representations, one above another, which they 
 bear, are often without connection ; or the centre is occupied by 
 an architectural design and surrounded irregularly with groups. 
 The figures are generally of a somewhat effeminate mould, and 
 great care appears to have been bestowed on the delineation of 
 rich but scantily folded garments. The representations are for 
 the most part borrowed from the ancient Greek tragedy, but in 
 some cases scenes of a more Italian character are observed. The 
 period of their manufacture is believed to have been shortly after 
 the reign of Alexander the Great. 
 
 The floors of the rooms are paved with ancient, but freely 
 restored Mosaics. — The numbers given in the following enumer- 
 ation are those on yellow paper affixed to the vases. 
 
 1st Room. The vases in the 2nd and 3rd cabinets (to the right, 
 counting from the entrance from the picture-gallery), and the 
 three placed on columns in front of them are specimens of the 
 earliest stage of this art. They are of a yellowish colour, orna- 
 mented with two rows of plants or animals of brownish or black 
 colour, and are round or oval in form. The 1st and 4th cabinets 
 contain Etruscan, the others Greek vases, some of them beautifully 
 shaped, but nearly all black and unpainted. 
 
 2nd Room. Pavement from the house of Diomedes at Pompeii. 
 By the window two models of tombs , which illustrate the manner 
 in which the vases were discovered. As the ornaments, weapons, 
 etc., of the deceased were deposited with his remains in the tomb, 
 so also were these vases which had adorned his home ; in some 
 cases, however, the nature of the subjects leads to the conclusion 
 that they were manufactured for this express purpose. By the 
 entrance, to the right, 1587. Electra and Orestes mourning at 
 the tomb of Agamemnon. 2711. Hunt of Meleager. On the left, 
 3231. Condemnation of Marsyas. On the right, 2034. Orestes 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 6 
 
82 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 seeking refuge from the Furies at the statue of Artemis; to the 
 right, on a tripod, *2718. Yase from Ruvo, the largest yet dis- 
 covered , adorned with a battle of Amazons and Greeks ; on the 
 right, 2258. Marriage of Bacchus and Ariadne (from Ruvo) ; to the 
 left of the exit, 2028. Hercules carrying off the tripod, pursued by 
 Apollo. 
 
 3rd Room. On the right, 1183. Beautiful vase, partly ribbed, 
 but little painted; on the left, 2716. Large vase with the death of 
 Archemorus; 2717. Large vase, with Artemis in a chariot drawn 
 by stags. 
 
 4th Room. On the right, in the corner, 2709. Ajax and Cas- 
 sandra; on the second column, on the right, 2883. Perseus releas- 
 ing Andromeda; 2021. Tereus on horseback pursuing Procne and 
 Philomela; 2033. Marriage of Bacchus and Ariadne. In the corner, 
 2710. Achilles with the body of Hector. Farther on, to the left, 
 2882. The celebrated large vase of Darius from Canosa: Darius 
 planning the conquest of Greece ; above is Hellas, at whose side 
 Athene and Zeus are standing ; beneath are the Persian provinces 
 on which subsidies are levied for the war, with accompanying 
 names. On the left, one of the largest vases in the collection ; to 
 the left of the last, 2774. Funeral sacrifice of Patroclus. 
 
 5th Room. On the right, by the entrance, 2347. Apotheosis of 
 Hercules. On the second column , to the right, 2027. Orestes in 
 the temple of Artemis; 2350. Large vase with Bacchanalian sacri- 
 fice and battle of Centaurs. 2712. Rape of the golden fleece (from 
 Paestum). To the left, farther on, *2357 (under glass), Yase with 
 lid, Bacchanalian sacrifice; *2359. Battle of Amazons; *2360 (un- 
 der glass), Destruction of Troy ; the last three being from Nola. 
 
 6th Room. Several vases and large basins from Nola, Ban, and 
 other places. By the window, under a glass shade, *Lecythus (vase 
 for ointment) with reliefs of Marsyas and Apollo. 
 
 7th Room : In the centre a large vase from Altamura, with Or- 
 pheus in the infernal regions. In the corners, vases from Ruvo. — 
 The entrance hence to the small bronzes is closed. We therefore 
 proceed to the principal entrance in the 6th room of the picture- 
 gallery (p. 80). 
 
 The collection of the ** Small Bronzes, the finest of its kind 
 in existence , consists chiefly of household utensils , lamps, 
 candelabra, tools of all kinds, musical and surgical instruments, 
 weapons, etc., most of them found at Pompeii, and is admirably 
 adapted to convey an idea of the life and habits of the ancient 
 Italians. The use of most of the objects is too obvious to require 
 explanation. 
 
 1st Room: The most valuable objects are in the centre. On a 
 marble table, a * Candelabrum from the villa of Diomedes, consist- 
 ing of a small Bacchus riding on a panther and a pilaster adorn- 
 ed with a mask and bucranium (skull of an ox), on a square pede- 
 
Riviera di Chiaja. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 83 
 
 stal; the lamps hang from four branches ; those at present placed 
 there are not the original. In the central group, near the entrance, 
 a large chair. At the adjoining corner: Table-support , with Vic- 
 toria bearing a trophy. Farther on, parallel with the window-wall 
 and by the windows : Bisellia (seats of honour) decorated with 
 heads of horses and swans, and a large shallow Dish with inlaid 
 silver ornaments. At the third corner of the central group, a * Tri- 
 pod for sacrifices, richly decorated, from the temple of Isis at Pom- 
 peii. Then iron Stocks from the gladiators’ barracks at Pompeii, 
 near which three skeletons were found. At the next corner : Por- 
 table Cooking-stove ; Baths. Large Brazier from the Tepidarium 
 of the small Thermae at Pompeii (p. 135), ornamented with a cow’s 
 head, the armorial bearings of the founder M. Nigidius Vaccula. — 
 In the cabinets to the right of the entrance, handsome lamps, and 
 candelabra above. 
 
 2nd. Room : A * Model of Pompeii, faithfully representing the 
 ruins , on a scale of 1 : 100 , but still unfinished. — Along the 
 walls numerous bronze vessels and candelabra. 
 
 3rd Room : A Triclinium , or three dining-sofas , each for three 
 persons (the table was placed in the middle). Three Money-chests , 
 which were once used in the atrium of an ancient house, from 
 Pompeii. 
 
 V . Modern Quarters : Chiaja, Villa Nazionale, 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele. — Castel S. Elmo. 
 
 The modern quarters of Naples, which form the chief resort 
 of foreign visitors , extend to the W. of the heights of Pizzo- 
 falcone and S. Elmo, along the base and on the slope of the 
 Posilipo (p. 90), and are bounded on the S. by the sea. Nearest 
 the coast runs the Chiaja , and on the hill farther back is the Corso 
 Vittorio Emanuele. 
 
 The *Riviera di Chiaja (PI. D-P>, 6), generally known simply 
 as La Chiaja (i. e. ‘plaga’; so too in Sicily ‘chiazza’ for ‘piazza’), 
 begins at the Largo della Vittoria (PI. D, 6 ; p. 34), at the point 
 where the piazza is entered by the Strada S. Cmterina a Chiaja 
 coming from the Toledo (p. 42). From this point it extends 
 westwards along the coast for upwards of 1 M., being flanked on 
 one side by handsome hotels and other buildings, and on the 
 other by the pleasure-grounds of the Villa Nazionale. The Chiaja, 
 the Rotten Row of Naples , is one of the liveliest streets in the 
 city, particularly on Sunday and holiday evenings in fine weather, 
 when it is thronged with carriages of every description, from the 
 light two-wheeled ‘corricolo’ to the elegant barouche and the 
 lumbering omnibus, while numerous riders prance along the course 
 set apart for them, and the neighbouring grounds of the Villa are 
 crowded with foot-passengers. 
 
 6 * 
 
84 Roure 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Aquarium. 
 
 The * Villa Nazionale, formerly Villa Reale , generally called 
 La Villa , formerly situated close to the sea, hut now separated 
 from it by a wide quay, is a beautiful pleasure-ground, affording 
 the principal promenade at Naples. It was laid out in 1780, ex- 
 tended in 1807 and 1834, and again considerably enlarged since 
 1875. The grounds are arranged chiefly in the Italian style, and 
 are embellished with trees of the most various descriptions, among 
 which a few handsome palms are particularly noticeable. The 
 sculptures intended for the decoration of the grounds, being in- 
 different imitations of ancient and modern works , do not deserve 
 inspection. The Villa is comparatively deserted during the day, 
 but presents a busy and gay scene at hours when the daily con- 
 certs (gratis) take place : viz., in the colder season 2-4, in summer 
 9-11 p.m. In the evening, when lighted with gas, enlivened by 
 the music, and fanned by the cool sea-breeze, these grounds afford 
 a good idea of the charms of an Italian summer night (chairs 10 c. ; 
 cafes, see p. 22). 
 
 Entering the grounds by the principal approach in the Largo 
 della Vittoria, and walking up the broad central path, we first come 
 to a large Antique Granite Basin from Paestum, brought from Salerno, 
 and deposited here in 1825 to replace the celebrated group of 
 the Farnese Bull, which was then removed from this spot to the 
 Museum (p. 64). To the right, farther on, is the studio of Signor 
 Maldarelli, the painter. We next pass the Aquarium on the left 
 (see below). In the centre of the promenade, the most frequented 
 spot, where the band plays, are several cafes. Here also rises a 
 statue of the historian Giambattista Vico (d. 1744), recently erected. 
 We next observe a mediocre statue of P. Colletta, the liberal- 
 minded Neapolitan general, minister-of-war, and historian (1775- 
 1831), erected in 1866. 
 
 Farther on, to the right, is a small temple in honour of Virgil 
 (p. 86), and another to the left dedicated to the memory of Tasso. 
 At the end of the gardens is a statue of Thalberg , the pianist, who 
 died at Naples in 1871. 
 
 The white building in the middle of the Villa contains a large 
 *Aquarium, ojftned in 1874, and belonging to the ‘ Zoological Sta- 
 tion'. The aquarium (opened at 9 a.m.) is on the ground-floor of 
 the building,- and is entered from the side next to the Castel dell' 
 Ovo (admission 2 fr. from 1st Sept, to 30th June; 1 fr. from 1st 
 July to 31st Aug. ; season-tickets sold at the office). 
 
 The Neapolitan Aquarium contains such an abundant stock of curious 
 marine animals of every description, that it is perhaps the most inter- 
 esting establishment of the kind in the world ; and the wonderful variety 
 of animate existence in the Mediterranean gives it a great advantage over 
 aquaria drawing their main supplies from more northern waters. Among 
 the contents are 6-8 varieties of cuttle-fish (the feeding of the large Oc- 
 topus is interesting) , a number of electric rays (which visitors are per- 
 mitted to touch so as to experience the shock from which the fish derives 
 its name), numerous beautifully coloured fish of the Mediterranean, a 
 
Chiesa del Sannazaro. NAPLES. 
 
 4 . Route. 85 
 
 great many different kinds of living coral, beautiful Medusae and crested 
 blubbers, many extraordinary- looking crabs and crayfish, pipe-fish, etc. 
 
 The Zoological Station was established by the German naturalist 
 Dr. Dohrn in 1872-74 for the purpose of facilitating a thorough scientific 
 investigation of the animal and vegetable world of the Mediterranean Sea. 
 The greater part of the expense was borne by Dr. Dohrn himself, but the 
 German government has repeatedly contributed large subsidies, and the 
 naturalists of Great Britain presented the institution with a sum of 1000 1. 
 A yearly income of about 1500;. is now derived from the stipends paid by 
 most of the European governments, Cambridge University, etc., for the 
 privilege of sending naturalists to make use of the advantages of the in- 
 stitution. 
 
 The resident staff of the establishment consists of Dr. Dohrn himself, 
 seven permanent naturalists, and upwards of twenty assistants of various 
 kinds. A small steam-yacht and a flotilla of sailing and rowing-boats are 
 maintained for dredging, and the other equipments are also on a scale of 
 great completeness. About 150 foreign naturalists have already prosecuted 
 their investigations here. The institution publishes extensive periodical 
 proceedings , sends microscopic and other preparations to all the leading 
 museums and laboratories in Europe, and in various ways has fairly 
 asserted itself as the central point for the study of marine biology. 
 
 From the point where the Villa ends to the extremity of the 
 Chiaja is about 74 M. The street divides here: the Strada di Pie- 
 digrotta , in a straight direction , leads to the Grotta di Posilipo 
 (see p. 87); and to the left diverges the Mergellina, forming a 
 continuation of the Chiaja, and consisting of a long row of houses 
 and villas on the slopes of the Posilipo and on the coast. This 
 forms the beginning of the Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p . 90) , which 
 commands a succession of delightful views. 
 
 Nearly 74 M. from the above-mentioned bifurcation of 
 the streets , the Corso Vittorio Emanuele diverges to the right 
 (p. 87; ordinary cab-fares thus far; also omnibuses). About 
 74 M. farther, on the right, before the street turns a corner, we 
 observe above us the small Chiesa del Sannazaro, or S. Maria 
 del Parto. (We ascend the approach to the church and mount 
 the steps to the left, which lead in three flights to the terrace 
 above the houses Nos. 10-17.) The church stands on the site of 
 a small estate which King Frederick II. of Arragon presented in 
 1496 to the poet Jacopo Sannazaro (b. at Naples, 1458), for whom 
 he entertained the highest regard. After his villa had been de- 
 stroyed by the French, the aged poet caused the church to be 
 erected by monks of the Servite order in 1529. It derives its 
 name from his Latin poem, ‘De partu Virginis’ (Naples, 1526). 
 
 The church contains a high-altar and six chapels. In the 1st chapel 
 to the right, St. Michael overcoming Satan, by Leonardo da Pistoja. The 
 devil is represented with the features of a woman of whom Diomedes 
 Carafa, Bishop of Ariano, was once passionately enamoured, and is popularly 
 known as 41 diavolo di Mergellina’. Behind the high-altar is the monu- 
 ment of the poet (d. 1530), executed by Fra Giovanni da Montorsoli from 
 a design by Girolamo Santacroce. At the sides Apollo and Minerva, pop- 
 ularly believed to be David and Judith; on a bas-relief between them 
 Neptune and Pan, with Fauns, satyrs, and nymphs singing and playing, an 
 allusion to Sannazaro’s poem ‘Arcadia’ ; above is the richly decorated sarco- 
 phagus with the bust of the poet, which bears his academic name : Actius 
 Sincerus. The inscription at the base of the monument by Bembo ‘Maroni 
 
86 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Tomb of Virgil. 
 
 . . . Musa proximus ut tumulo’ alludes to the poet’s having imitated 
 Virgil. His principal works are idyls, elegies, and epigrams in Latin. 
 
 To the right, farther on, rises the Villa Angri. On the left 
 (I /2 M. from the Chiesa del Sannazaro) , we next observe near 
 the sea the picturesque ruins of the Palazzo di Down Anna (erro- 
 neously called that of the Regina Giovanna), begun in the 17th 
 cent, by Fansaga for Donna Anna Carafa, wife of the viceroy Duke 
 of Medina, on the site of a former palace of the princes of 
 Stigliano, but never completed. To the left, on the coast, just be- 
 fore reaching the Palazzo di Donn’ Anna , we pass the Trattoria 
 dello Scoglio delle Sirene, and just beyond it is the Trattoria dello 
 Scoglio di Frisio , both mentioned at p. 23. 
 
 Boats for returning are generally to be found below the restaurants : 
 to the Villa P/ 2 , to the town 2-3 fr. ; Cab from the Piazza del Plebiscito 
 to the Frisio 1 fr. (bargain necessary). The tramway-cars also pass the 
 Villa on their way to the Villa Canonica. 
 
 For the continuation of this street, see pp. 90, 91. 
 
 The Strada di Piedigrotta (PI. B, A, 7), which forms the 
 prolongation of the Chiaja in a straight direction, gradually ascends 
 from the bifurcation mentioned at p. 85 to the hill of Posilipo. In 
 5 min. we reach the small piazza where the Corso Yittorio Ema- 
 nuele diverges (p. 87). At this point rises the church of S. Maria 
 di Piedigrotta , a building of the 13th cent., but much altered, and 
 finally restored in 1850 after the return of Pius IX. from Gaeta. 
 It contains a very old picture of the Madonna, and an interesting 
 Pieta in the Flemish-Neapolitan style , the wings evidently exe- 
 cuted under Sienese influence (2nd chapel to the right). — The 
 popular festival of the ‘Yergine di Piedigrotta’, celebrated here on 
 7th-8th Sept., having been instituted in 1745 in commemoration 
 of the victory gained over the Austrians in the previous year by 
 Charles III. at Yelletri, has lost much of its original importance 
 since the unification of Italy. 
 
 About 3 min. farther, beyond the point where the road turns 
 to the left, we observe on the left, between the smiths’ forges, 
 below No. 9, the entrance to the so-called Tomb of Virgil, a 
 Roman columbarium situated on the hill, the genuineness of 
 which, however, as the great poet’s last resting-place is extremely 
 questionable. The custodian is generally on the spot (adm. 1 fr. ; 
 gratuity 6-8 soldi). The tomb-chamber, to which a long flight of 
 steps ascends, contains nothing worth seeing, but the hill commands 
 a beautiful view of the bay. The visit occupies 25-30 minutes. 
 
 The tomb contains a chamber about 16 ft. square, with three win- 
 dows and vaulted ceiling. In the walls are ten recesses for cinerary 
 urns, and in the principal wall, which has been destroyed, there appears to 
 have been one of greater size. The name of the monument is without 
 satisfactory historical foundation, but probability and local tradition favour 
 the assumption that this was Virgil’s last resting-place. The poet, as he 
 himself informs us, here composed his immortal works, the Georgies and 
 the iEneid, and he unquestionably possessed a villa on the Posilipo, and 
 by his express wish was interred here after his death at Brundisium, B.C. 
 19, on his return from Greece, Petrarch is said to have visited this spot 
 
Grotta di Posilipo. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 87 
 
 accompanied by King Robert, and to have planted a laurel, which at the 
 beginning of the present century fell a prey to the knives of curiosity- 
 mongers, and has since been replaced. It is on record that in 1326 the 
 tomb was in a good state of preservation, and contained a marble urn with 
 nine small pillars, the frieze of which bore the well-known inscription : — 
 Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc 
 Parthenope : cecini pascua, rura, duces. 
 
 Of all this no trace now remains. In 1530, however, Cardinal Bembo's 
 epitaph on the poet Sannazaro (see p. 85) proves that he believed in the 
 genuineness of this tomb; and the following inscription, which is still 
 legible, was accordingly placed on it in 1554 : — 
 
 Qui cineres ? tumuli hsec vestigia : conditur olim 
 Ille hie qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces. 
 
 The road now ascends in a curve and reaches the Grotta di 
 Posilipo, or Grotta di Pozzuoli (PI. A, 7), a tunnel probably con- 
 structed in the reign of Augustus. It is mentioned by Seneca and 
 Petronius, under Nero, as a narrow and gloomy pass. Mediaeval 
 superstition attributed it to magic arts practised by Virgil. King 
 Alphonso I. (about 1442) enlarged the opening by lowering the level 
 of the road, and caused it to be ventilated ; a century later Don 
 Petro de Toledo caused the road to be paved ; and it was again 
 paved and improved by Charles III. (1754). The length of the 
 passage, which is always lighted with gas, is 757 yds. 5 height at the 
 E. entrance about 87 ft., varying in the interior from 20 to 50 ft. 5 
 breadth 21-32 ft. Small chapels are situated at the entrance and in 
 the middle. On a few days in March and November the sun shines 
 directly through the grotto, producing a magic illumination. 
 
 At the egress of the Grotta di Posilipo is situated the village 
 of Fuorigrotta , with numerous osterie, where several roads diverge. 
 A new road to the right leads to Capodimonte (p. 43). The sec- 
 ond leads to the village of Pianura (p. 93) ; a third road leads to 
 the Lago d’Agnano, and that in a straight direction to Bagnoli (p. 96). 
 At the W. end of Fuorigrotta is the small church of S. Vitale , 
 containing a simple monument to the distinguished philologist 
 and poet Count Giacomo Leopardi, who died at Naples in 1837. 
 
 Opposite the N.W. corner of the Museum, as mentioned at 
 p. 43, the Strada Salvator Rosa (PI. D, E, 3), formerly named 
 Str. dell’ Infrascata, ascends the heights of S. Elmo and the Po- 
 silipo. Donkeys may be hired at the foot of the hill, and also 
 farther up : to S. Martino l-D /2 fr. (as quick as a carriage, or 
 quicker). The road ascends in zigzags. After 10 minutes’ walk we 
 reach the small Piazza Salvator Rosa (omnibus-station, see p. 25), 
 where the Str. Salvator Rosa turns to the right (see p. 92). 
 
 In a straight direction begins here the new *Corso Vittorio 
 Emanuele (PI. D, 4, 5; C, 5, 6 ; B, A, 6 ), which is carried by 
 means of windings and several viaducts round the hills of S. Elmo 
 and the Posilipo. It then skirts the slopes for some distance, and 
 at length gradually descends to the Piazza di Piedigrotta (p. 86 ) 
 and the Mergellina (p. 85), commanding admirable views of the 
 
88 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 S. Martino. 
 
 town, the bay, and Mt. Vesuvius. The road was begun by the 
 Bourbons for military purposes (to afford a protected communi- 
 cation between the Castel S. Elmo and the city), but has only 
 recently been completed. Owing to the openness and healthiness 
 of the situation, houses are rapidly springing up along this road. 
 The distance from the Piazza Salvator Rosa to S. Maria di 
 Piedigrotta is upwards of 2^2 M. (pleasanter for a drive than a 
 walk). From the Corso a number of lanes descend, some of 
 them by means of steps, to the lower part of the city. Those 
 diverging from the first third of the road lead to the Toledo, 
 those from the last third descend to the Chiaja. 
 
 About i /2 M. from the Piazza Salvator Rosa, beyond the 
 viaduct and a bend in the Corso , a road diverging to the right 
 beyond a red house (Salita di S. Martino) ascends to the Castel S. 
 Elmo and S. Martino. It soon narrows to a path ascending by means 
 of steps, and towards the end by zigzags, and leads to the entrance 
 of the fort in */ 4 hr. About M. farther the Salita del Petrajo , 
 another lane with steps, also ascends to the right from the Corso 
 Vitt. Emanuele to S. Martino and S. Elmo. At the top we turn to 
 the right and soon reach the entrance to S. Elmo. This is the 
 shortest route to the castle from the new quarters on the Chiaja 
 (donkeys for hire at the foot of the Salita). — A much easier, but 
 longer route is by the carriage-road, following the Str. Salvator 
 Rosa to the small chapel of S. Maria Costantinopolitana (PL C, 4; 
 p. 91), diverging there to the left, turning to the left again, and 
 then to the right. Carriage to S. Martino, with one horse 1^2? 
 with two horses 2*/ 4 fr., see p. 24. 
 
 On entering the precincts of the fortifications, we first pro- 
 ceed to the suppressed Carthusian monastery of — 
 
 *S. Martino (PI. D, 5), which is not less remarkable for the 
 beauty of its situation and its views , than for the great value 
 of its contents. It was begun in 1325 by Duke Charles of Calabria, 
 but was entirely rebuilt in the 17th cent. Since its dissolution, 
 the monastery has been placed under the management of the 
 Museo Nazionale, and is shown daily, 9-4 o’clock (adm. 1 fr. ; 
 Sun. free). 
 
 Beyond the ticket-office lies tbe monastery court. We turn to the 
 left here, and reach the church by passing through a corridor and the 
 Coro dei Laid Conversi. 
 
 The Church, which consists of a nave with three chapels on each 
 side, is richly embellished with marble. On the ceiling is an Ascension, 
 and between the windows the Twelve Apostles, by Lanfranco. Over the 
 principal entrance a "Descent from the Cross by Stanzioni (damaged), and 
 next to it Moses and Elias by Spagnoletto. The Twelve Apostles above the 
 arches of the chapels , by the same artist. Frescoes of the choir by the 
 Cavaliere d' Arpino. The Crucifixion by Lanfranco. Nativity, unfinished, 
 by Guido Reni (who died during the progress of the work). On the sides : 
 to the left , Communion of the Apostles, by Spagnoletto (in the style 
 of Paolo Veronese), and Christ washing the disciples’ feet, by Caracciolo ; 
 to the right, the same subject by Stanzioni , and Institution of the 
 Eucharist, by the pupils of P. Veronese. The marble decorations of 
 
Castel Santf Elmo. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route . 89 
 
 the church, twelve different roses of Egyptian granite, after Cosimo 
 Fansaga of Carrara, the beautiful mosaic marble pavement by Presti , 
 and the high-altar by Solimena also merit inspection. — The Sacristy, 
 entered to the left from the choir, is adorned with intarsias by Bonaventura 
 Presto , and paintings by the Cavaliere d'Arpino, Stanzioni , and Caravaggio. — 
 Beyond it is the Tesoro, containing as an altar-piece a "Descent from the 
 Cross, the master-piece of Spagnoletto , fine in colouring and admirable 
 for its delineation of pain ; on the ceiling Judith, by Luca Giordano, said 
 to have been painted in 48 hrs., when the artist was in his 72nd year. 
 
 Opposite the sacristy, to the right of the choir, is the Chapter- 
 House, with a ceiling-painting by Corenzio ; other pictures by Arpino, 
 Finoglia, Stanzioni , and Cambiaso. 
 
 From the chapter-house we pass through another small room and 
 descend by a few steps into the "Cloisters, which are borne by sixty 
 columns of white marble. — To the right of the cloisters we next enter 
 the recently founded Museum, which contains a collection of majolicas 
 (some very fine), glasses, mirrors, small pieces of tapestry, etc., in nine 
 rooms. 
 
 At the end of the right wing of the cloisters is a door leading to the 
 right through a corridor to the ** Belvedere, a hexagonal room with two 
 balconies commanding exquisite views of the city, the bay, Mt. Ve- 
 suvius, and the fertile country as far as Nola and the Apennines. It 
 is less extensive than that from the summit of the fort, but more 
 picturesque. 
 
 We now return to the monastery court by the corridor diverging 
 immediately to the right by the entrance to the museum from the clois- 
 ters and passing a room with old models of Neapolitan fortresses. — 
 Lastly, in the court, we may inspect a state-coach and state-barge of the 
 period of Charles III. (1734). 
 
 Visitors are not admitted to the castle without a permesso 
 from the commandant at Naples (p. 36). 
 
 The Castel Sant’ Elmo (876 ft.), or Sant’ Ermo, formerly Sant ’ 
 Erasmo , was erected by Giacomo de Sanctis under Robert the Wise 
 (1343). Under Ferdinand I. (1458) it was called the Castello di S. 
 Martino , after the neighbouring monastery, and considerably ex- 
 tended. In the 16th cent, it was altered to its present form by 
 Don Pedro de Toledo, and in 1641 some additions were made by 
 the Duke of Medina. The vast walls, the fosses hewn in the 
 solid tuffstone rock, its subterranean passages, and ample cistern 
 formerly obtained for it the reputation of impregnability. The 
 fort has been dismantled under the new regime , and is now 
 used as a military prison. A walk on the ramparts affords a 
 splendid ^Panorama of the town and bay, and particularly of the 
 district towards Camaldoli, Misenum, and Ischia. 
 
 VI. Hill of Posilipo. 
 
 The walks described below may either be taken as a continuation of 
 the traveller’s visit to the modern quarters of the city, or they may be 
 combined with the excursions mentioned in Route 5. If time is limited, 
 a visit to the Strada Nuova di Posilipo may be combined with the ex- 
 cursion to Pozzuoli, the best plan being to go through the Grotta di Posi- 
 lipo, and to return by the new road. A visit to Camaldoli may also be 
 combined with that of S. Martino (2 hrs. more) , but a whole afternoon 
 should if possible be devoted to the former. 
 
90 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. Strada Nuova di Posilipo. 
 
 The hill which hounds Naples on the W., with its villages and 
 nnmerous charming villas, derives its name of Posilipo , or Posil- 
 lipo , from Pausilypon ( £ sans-souci’), the villa of the notorious 
 epicure Yedius Pollio, afterwards the property of Augustus, which 
 was gradually extended to the whole hill. The Posilipo is most 
 conveniently visited either from the Chiaja or from the Museum. 
 Our starting-point is the Chiaja. 
 
 The **Strada Nuova di Posilipo, which at first skirts the coast, 
 and then gradually ascends round the S. slope of the hill, was be- 
 gun in 1812 during the reign of Murat, and in 1823 completed 
 as far as Bagnoli. It leads between many beautifully situated 
 villages, commanding exquisite views, and should on no account 
 be omitted from the traveller’s programme. Comp. Map, p. 96. 
 
 The beginning of the Strada, as far as the Frisio , iy 4 M. from 
 the end of the Yilla Nazionale, has been described at pp. 83-86. 
 The road leaves the sea and ascends in windings round the spur of 
 the hill. To the left are the villas Rocca Romana (with hothouses), 
 Rocca Matilda, and Minutoli. About iy 4 M. from the Frisio, beyond 
 a church on the right with a relief of the Madonna over its portal, 
 a road diverges to the left, descending past the Villa de Metis, or 
 delle Cannonate, so called from its having been bombarded by the 
 French, where Philip Hackert, the court-painter whose life and 
 style of art have been described by Goethe, resided in 1786. The 
 road then descends past the Villa Gerace to the Capo di Posilipo. 
 The small church of 8. Maria del Faro, in the vicinity, occupies 
 the site of an old lighthouse. Beautiful view towards Naples. Boats 
 for returning to the town may be hired here. 
 
 The main road ascends for */ 2 M. more. At the top of the hill 
 it is joined by the road described at pp. 91, 92. It then passes 
 through a deep cutting to a (V4 M.) projecting round platform 
 which commands a magnificent *Yiew towards Bagnoli, Camaldoli, 
 Pozzuoli, Baja, and Ischia. The road now descends on the W. 
 side of the Posilipo, commanding a fine view the whole way. 
 
 On the left, */ 4 M. below the round platform, is the entrance 
 to the so-called Grotto of Sejanus, a passage hewn through the 
 rock of the Posilipo, about 990 yds. in length, being 233 yds. longer 
 than the Grotta di Posilipo, and originally surpassing it in height 
 and width. In the side next the sea are several openings for 
 ventilation (fee 1 fr. 5 the inspection occupies about */ 2 hr.). 
 
 This is the tunnel whose construction is ascribed by Strabo to 
 M. Cocceius Nerva (B. C. 37), almost simultaneously with that of the 
 Julian harbour on the Lucrine lake by M. Agrippa. It is therefore a 
 mistake to associate it with the name of Sejanus, as it is of much earlier 
 origin. It has recently been cleared of rubbish and supported by walls, 
 on which occasion an inscription was found , recording that the tunnel 
 had been repaired by the Emp. Honorius about the year 400. At the E. 
 end of this passage, especially near the rocky promontory of La Gajola , 
 the most beautiful views are obtained of Nisida, Procida, Ischia, Capri, 
 and the bay of Naples, and a number of relics of antiquity are observed. 
 
Hill of Posilipo. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 91 
 
 The custodian conducts the visitor from the grotto to a vineyard in 
 the vicinity (fee 30-50 c.), whence a magnificent view is enjoyed, and 
 where some of the scattered fragments of the Pausilypon , or villa of 
 Vedius Pollio (p. 90) are visible, extending from the slope of the hill 
 down to the sea, and overgrown with myrtles, erica, and broom. — 
 The fishponds, in which the cruel Vedius was in the habit of feeding 
 large lampreys with the flesh of his slaves, lay nearer the town. — A small 
 Theatre is also seen , which belonged to the villa of Lucullus , with 
 seventeen rows of seats hewn in the rock. Besides these are numerous 
 other relics of the villas with which the Posilipo was covered in ancient 
 times. We also observe, close to the sea, in the direction of the town, 
 the Scuola , or properly Scoglio (rock) di Virgilio , perhaps once a temple 
 of Fortune, or of Venus Euploea, to whom mariners sacrificed after a 
 prosperous voyage. 
 
 The S.W. spur of the Posilipo is called Capo Coroglio , opposite 
 which rises the small rocky island of Nisida, the Nesis of the an- 
 cients, an extinct crater, which opens towards the S. On the N. 
 side is a rock, connected with the mainland by a breakwater, and 
 bearing the Lazzaretto (for quarantine purposes). The building 
 on the height is a bagno for criminals (no admission). 
 
 The son of Lucullus possessed a villa on this island, to which Brutus 
 retired after the murder of Caesar in the spring of B. C. 44, and where 
 he was visited by Cicero. He took leave here of his wife Portia on his 
 departure for Greece, previous to the battle of Philippi. In the 15th cent. 
 Queen Johanna II. possessed a villa on the island of Nisida, which was 
 converted into a fort for the purpose of keeping the fleet of Louis of 
 Anjou in check. 
 
 From the entrance of the Grotto of Sejanus to Bagnoli is 
 another mile, so that the whole distance thither from the Largo 
 della Yittoria is about 4 M. — Bagnoli , see p. 96. 
 
 The Hill of Posilipo is traversed by numerous roads and 
 paths connecting the different villages, houses, and villas. Most of 
 them are flanked by walls and command no view, but here and 
 there they afford fine prospects of the city and bay and towards 
 the W. The following route is recommended, particularly for driv- 
 ing (or at least part of the way ; cab-fare from the Piazza Salvator 
 Rosa to Antignano, with one horse iy 2 > with two horses 2 J /4 fr.). 
 
 We follow the Strada Salvator Rosa (formerly dell J Infras- 
 cata ), mentioned at p. 87, from the Piazza Salvator Rosa to the 
 right (nearly */ 2 M. from the Museum), passing between houses 
 for nearly */ 2 M. and afterwards between garden walls. — A road 
 diverges hence to Arenella , the birthplace of the talented land- 
 scape-painter Salvator Rosa (b. 1605 , d. at Rome in 1673 after 
 a chequered career). — We continue to follow the main road in 
 a straight direction. By the (^3 M.) chapel of S. Maria Costan- 
 tinopolitana the road to S. Elmo, mentioned at p. 88, diverges 
 to the left. To the right, farther on, we reach Antignano in 2 min. 
 more. From the small piazza at the beginning of the village the 
 road to Yomero (left) andCamaldoli (right, p. 92) separate. Comp. 
 Plan II (B, 4), p. 21. 
 
 We turn to the left (‘Strada Belvedere’), and then, halfway 
 
92 Route 4. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 Camaldoli. 
 
 to the village, to the right, and next reach (^3 M.) Voraero, where 
 the Villa Belvedere on the left commands a charming ^Panorama 
 of both land and sea (attendant who shows the terrace, 5-10 soldi). 
 About a hundred paces farther the steep Salita del Vomero de- 
 scends to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and to the Chiaja. — Our 
 route continues to follow the heights, passing between the garden- 
 walls which enclose the villas Regina , Ricciardi , Belletieri , and 
 Tricase , and turns ( 2 / 3 M. from the Belvedere) a little to the S. 
 (fine view of Naples over the wall to the left). It then ascends, 
 under the name of ‘Strada Patrizi’, past the (y 3 M.) Villa Patrizi , 
 to the top of the Posilipo, whence we enjoy an admirable view of 
 the district to the W., the Phlegrsean fields of antiquity (p. 94). 
 Comp, the Map, p. 96. 
 
 The road continues to follow the top of the Posilipo, under 
 which the tunnel mentioned at p. 87 passes. A little before we 
 reach the entrance to the (2/3 M.) village of Posilipo , the Salita di 
 S. Antonio diverges to the left, descending past Virgil’s Tomb 
 (p. 86) to the Mergellina. — If the traveller prefers, he may pass 
 through the village of Posilipo and follow the same road, which 
 commands beautiful views and descends, past the village of Strato 
 on the right, to (2 M.) the Strada Nuova di Posilipo , which we 
 reach at its highest point. The Grotto of Sejanus is Y2 M. farther, 
 and the Villa is about 3 M. distant thence (comp. p. 90). 
 
 Camaldoli. 
 
 An Excursion to Camaldoli and back on foot, including stay there, 
 takes 4V2-5 hrs.; on donkey-back a little less (from the Museum 2-2 l A fr. 
 and a trifling fee to the attendant). Those who prefer it may drive as 
 far as Antignano (one-horse carr. H/ 2 , two -horse fr. ; comp. p. 24), 
 where donkeys may be hired; carriages for returning may also be pro- 
 cured here , so that it is unnecessary to keep one waiting. The bridle- 
 path from Antignano, which walkers will find pleasant, cannot be mis- 
 taken if the following directions be attended to (see also Plan, p. 20, and 
 Map, p. 96). — The early morning and the evening lights are the most 
 favourable for the views, particularly the latter. The traveller, however, 
 should start on the return-journey in good time , as it is anything but 
 pleasant to encounter frequent walkers and riders on the rough path 
 after dusk. 
 
 Leaving the Museum , we follow the Strada Salvator Rosa or 
 dell’ Infrascata (p. 91) as far as Antignano (IV4 M.), where we 
 turn to the right (comp. Plan B, 4). At the next bifurcation we 
 turn to the left, and reach (4 min.) the office where the Dazio 
 Consumo 1 or municipal tax on comestibles , is levied. About 200 
 paces farther on, we take the bridle-path diverging to the left and 
 passing an osteria on the right. The path then immediately passes 
 under a viaduct and enters a hollow (to which point our Plan of 
 Naples extends : A, 4, 3). The path runs between bushes and 
 dines. After 20 min., beyond an archway through which we pass, 
 the path turns by a white house a little to the left to the (4 min.) 
 farm-buildings of Camaldolilli. and passes through the gateway, 
 
Camaldoli . 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 4. Route. 93 
 
 immediately beyond which it ascends to the right at a sharp angle. 
 Fine view of S. Elmo, Naples, Vesuvius, and the bay towards the 
 right. After 7 min., at the point where the path descends slightly, 
 a path diverges to the right to Nazaret, while our route descends 
 to the left and passes the mouth of a gorge , through which is ob- 
 tained a fine view of Capri. In 3 min. more we pass a path turn- 
 ing sharply to the left, and in 10 min. reach a point where a path 
 diverges to the right to Nazaret and a forest-path leads to the left, 
 while the main path , leading to Camaldoli , ascends steeply in a 
 straight direction. In l/ 4 hr. more we turn to the right to a closed 
 gdte, on passing through which riders have to pay 20 c. and walk- 
 ers 15 c. each. The path then skirts the wall of the monastery 
 garden, where it is joined by the path from Nazaret, and reaches 
 the entrance to the monastery in 5 min. more. Visitors ring at the 
 gate, and on leaving give the porter a few soldi. 
 
 **Camaldoli , a monastery of the Camaldulensian order insti- 
 tuted by S. Romuald near Florence about the year 1000, was found- 
 ed in 1585, but is now dissolved. It stands on the E. summit of an 
 amphitheatre of hills which enclose the Phlegraean plain on the N., 
 being the highest point near Naples (1476 ft.), and commands one 
 of the most magnificent views in Italy. The monastery and church 
 contain nothing worth seeing, and we therefore proceed at once to 
 the garden. Two points of view are specially to be noted : the more 
 important is in the garden, straight before us; the other, which 
 commands the Campanian plain, is by the monastery, more to the 
 left. Now that the monastery is dissolved, ladies also are admitted. 
 There are still four surviving monks, who offer wine and coffee, 
 and who in any case expect a small donation (*/ 2 fr. for one person). 
 
 The view embraces the bays of Naples, Pozzuoli, and Gaeta, 
 the widely extended capital (of which a great part is concealed 
 by S. Elmo) with its environs, the Lago d^Agnano, the craters 
 of Solfatara and Astroni, the promontories of Posilipo and Mise- 
 num, the islands of Nisida, Procida, and Ischia, and the districts 
 of Baise , Cumae, and Liternum. Towards the S. the view is 
 bounded by Capri and the Punta della Campanella, the ancient 
 promontory of Minerva. The small towns of Massa, Sorrento, 
 and Castellamare are visible ; also Monte Sant’ Angelo, the smok- 
 ing cone of Vesuvius, and the luxuriant plain at its base. To- 
 wards the N. the eye wanders over the expanse of the Campania 
 Felix with its numerous villages , over Nola, Cancello, Maddaloni, 
 Caserta, Capua , Monte Tifata , the volcanic group of the Rocca 
 Monfina, the lake of Patria, Gaeta, the hills of Formiae, and the 
 Monte Circello beyond. To the W. stretches the open sea, with 
 the islands of Ponza, Ventotene, S. Stefano, and Isola delle Botte. 
 
 We may also descend by Nazaret to Pianura at the N.W. base of the 
 hill, where there are extensive quarries-, thence to Fuorigrotta (p. 87), 
 4 M. — At the S. base of Camaldoli lies the village of -Soccavo, to which 
 a steep path descends (guide necessary R thence to Fuorigrotta 2 x /2 M. 
 
94 
 
 5. Pozzuoli, Baise, Misenum, and Cumae. 
 
 The Phlegraean Plain , a district to the W. of Naples, has from time 
 immemorial been a scene of tremendous volcanic activity, and as lately as 
 the 16th cent, has undergone vast changes , of which the traveller will 
 observe traces at every step. This tract is scarcely less interesting in an 
 historical than in a physical point of view. It was here that Hellenic 
 civilisation first gained a footing in Italy, and constant communication was 
 thenceforth maintained between this portion of the peninsula and the East. 
 The legends of Hellenic tradition are most intimately associated with these 
 coasts, and the poems of Homer and Virgil will continue to invest it with 
 a peculiar interest as long as classic literature exists. The prosperity of 
 this lovely coast has long since departed. The grand creations of imperial 
 Rome, the innumerable palatial villas of the Roman aristocracy, have 1 ' 
 
 been converted into a chaotic heap of ruins by convulsions of nature, a 
 have left behind comparatively slight traces of their former magnificent 
 The malaria which prevails in many parts of the district, and the stupendous 
 though slumbering , agencies beneath the soil cast a certain gloom ovei 
 the scene-, but the inexhaustible beauties of Italian nature are still in- 
 vested with the same charms as they possessed two thousand years ago. 
 Islands and promontories, bays and lakes, and singularly beautiful inden- 
 tations of the coast form the chief features of this scenery, which is per- 
 haps without rival. 
 
 The fertile imagination of the natives has assigned all kinds of impos- 
 ing classical names to many insignificant and uninteresting objects in this 
 district, and strangers are therefore often importuned to inspect pretended 
 curiosities which make serious inroads on time, temper, and purse. The 
 chief objects of interest are enumerated in the following description. 
 
 Two Days should if possible be devoted to exploring this region as 
 follows: First: — Drive through the Grotta di Posilipo (p. 87) to the now 
 drained Lago d'Agnano , 40 min. ; visit the Dog Grotto , 20 min. ; walk over 
 the hill (* View) to the Solfatara, 1 hr. ; halt there, 20 min.; walk to 
 Pozzuoli and the "Amphitheatre, 20 min.; halt there, and visit cathedral, 
 harbour, and * Temple of Serapis, 1 hr.; drive back to Naples by the 
 * Strada Nuova di Posilipo (which route must be expressly stipulated for), 
 I 1/4 hr.; in all 5-6 hours. — Second: Drive through Pozzuoli to the 
 Arco Felice , l 3 /4 hr. ; walk to Cumae and back, 1 hr. ; walk through the 
 Grotta della Pace to the Lago Averno and Baja , 1 hr. ; drive to Bacoli , 
 20 min. (Piscina Mirabilis l /\ hr.); ascent of Capo Miseno and back, D /2 
 hr. ; drive back to Naples 2*/2 hrs.; in all 7-8 hours. — A pleasant variety 
 may be introduced into the excursion by going from Pozzuoli to Baja or 
 to the Grotto of Sejanus by boat. 
 
 One Day. If Cumae, which is chiefly interesting to archaeologists, or 
 the Dog Grotto and the Lago d’Agnano be omitted , all the other places 
 may easily be visited in one day. (The Solfatara may also be omitted 
 by those who intend to ascend Vesuvius.) The important antiquities of 
 Pozzuoli may in this case be visited either in going or returning. The 
 start should be made early. — The inns are generally dear and indiffer- 
 ent. Luncheon or early dinner may be taken at the Lucrine Lake or 
 at Baja, but it is preferable to bring provisions from Naples and to picnic 
 at Cumee or on the Capo Miseno. 
 
 The way in which these excursions may be combined with a visit to 
 Procida and Ischia is indicated at p. 102. 
 
 Carriages. There is no fixed tariff except for the drives to the Lago 
 d’Agnano and to Bagnoli , for either of which the fare is 2 fr. with one 
 horse, or 3 fr. with two horses (from the stand in the Strada di Piedi- 
 grotta; comp. p. 24). — The usual fare to Pozzuoli for a cab with one 
 horse is 3 fr., there and back 4 fr., or back by the Strada Nuova di Po- 
 silipo 5 fr. ; to Pozzuoli and Baja, and back, 10 fr. ; driver’s fee extra in 
 each case. Those who take an interest in the antiquities, and do not 
 object to walking, had better not be hampered with a carriage for the 
 whole excursion. As there is constant communication between Naples 
 and Pozzuoli, a single seat (‘un posto’) in public conveyance may 
 
LAGO D’AGNANO. 
 
 5. Route. 95 
 
 always be obtained for 1 fr., but some practice in bargaining is required; 
 most of these vehicles start from the Cafe Benvenuto (Strada di Chiaja, 
 corner of the Strada Alabardieri; PI. D, 6). A single seat may also 
 easily be obtained in one of the small ‘■corricoli’ or gigs which ply be- 
 tween Naples, Pozzuoli, and Baja (V 2 -I fr., according to the distance). — 
 A carriage with two horses for the whole day costs 20-25 fr. , with one 
 horse 10-12 fr., a corricolo 8 fr. ; in every case a distinct bargain should 
 be made beforehand. 
 
 Guides. The following directions, the map, and a slight knowledge 
 of the language will enable the traveller to dispense with a guide. Those, 
 however, who desire to avoid the importunities of the guides at Pozzuoli 
 and Baja may engage a cicerone at Naples for the excursion (6 fr. ; see 
 p. 25). The Naples guides undertake the hiring of a carriage, the pay- 
 ment of fees, etc. , thus relieving the traveller of all trouble (total cost 
 for two persons with one-horse carriage about 20 fr.). 
 
 The usual and shortest route to the W. environs of Naples is 
 through the Grotta di Posilipo and Fuorigrotta (p. 87 ; 2*/ 4 M. from 
 the Largo della Yittoria), from which the main road leads straight 
 to Bagnoli (p. 96). From that road, a few hundred paces beyond 
 Fuorigrotta, a cart track, and nearly i 1 /^ M. farther abroad road, 
 diverge to the dried up Lago d’Agnano , 2 l / 4 M. from Fuorigrotta. 
 
 The Lago d’Agnano, which was drained in 1870, is an old 
 crater of irregular form, 2(/ 4 M. in circumference. The water pro 
 duced malaria, but now that it is drained the gain in a sanitary 
 point of view is very doubtful, while the beauty of the landscape 
 is sadly impaired. 
 
 On the S. bank, immediately to the right of the point where 
 the road reaches it, are the old Stufe di San Germano , or chambers 
 in which the hot sulphureous fumes rising from the ground here 
 are collected for the use of sick persons (adm. 1 fr. each person). 
 A few paces farther on is the famous Grotta di Cane , or Dog 
 Grotto. It derives its name from the fact that the ground and 
 sides are so thoroughly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, 
 that the fumes render dogs insensible in a few seconds, and 
 produce a feeling 'of languor on human beings. Dogs are pro- 
 vided for the exhibition of this somewhat cruel experiment, but 
 the curiosity of the traveller may be sufficiently gratified by ob- 
 serving that a light is immediately extinguished when brought in 
 contact with the vapour. Pliny (Hist. Nat. ii. 93) mentions this 
 grotto as : ‘spiracula et scrobes Oharoneae mortiferum spiritum ex- 
 halantes in agro Puteolano’. (Adm. 1/2 fr* each person; 1 fr. 
 more is demanded for the experiments with the dog and the light.) 
 
 The road skirting the S.W. bank of the dried lake leads to (1 M.) 
 the royal chasse of Astroni, the largest and most important of the volcan- 
 ic craters in this region , being upwards of 3 M. in circumference , and 
 densely overgrown with holm-oaks and poplars. On the S. side it con- 
 tains a small lake, and in the centre an eminence of trachytic lava. 
 Picturesque , but somewhat dull park-scenery , pleasanter for riding than 
 walking. Driving is practicable only as far as the margin of the crater. 
 We then ascend the old road to the left to the large gate, where we 
 show our ‘permesso’ (see p. 36). Fee x ji fr. 
 
 From the Lago d’Agnano to Pozzuoli, li/ 4 hr., a pleasant footpath 
 commanding a superb view towards the end, leads across the hills to the 
 W. By a solitary house, about 8 min. from the Dog Grotto, a road di- 
 
96 Route 5. 
 
 POZZUOLI. 
 
 Environs 
 
 verges to the left from the above-mentioned Astroni road, and skirts the 
 N. base of the Monte Spina. After 3 min. we turn to the right, and in 
 10 min. more to the right again; where the road divides into three (2 
 min.) we turn to the left, then immediately afterwards to the left again, 
 continuing to follow the main road. At a farm-house (10 min.) the road 
 narrows to a footpath, which ascends steeply past ancient walls to a (8 
 min.) white building and yard, through which we pass by a door on the 
 left. Passing through a narrow dell , the path leads in 8 min. more to 
 the top of the hill, where we take the road to the right. Looking back, 
 we obtain a beautiful glimpse at Nisida and Capri, and by the (5 min.) 
 suppressed Capuchin monastery of S. Gennaro (p. 99), we enjoy a superb 
 "‘Survey of Pozzuoli and its_bay, the Capo Miseno, and Ischia. After 
 4 min. more in a straight direction, we may turn to the right to the 
 entrance of the Solfatara (p. 99), or to the left to O /4 hr.) Pozzuoli. 
 
 The monotonous high road from Fuorigrotta to (2 A /4 M.) 
 Bagnoli leads between gardens. When it approaches the coast, the 
 island of Nisida (p. 91) becomes visible on the left. 
 
 Bagnoli (called by the Neapolitans Bagnol) is a small wa- 
 tering-place with hot springs, some of which contain salt and 
 carbonic acid gas , others sulphur and iron. There are several 
 bath and lodging-houses. From Bagnoli by the Strada Nuova 
 di Posilipo to Naples, see pp. 91, 90. 
 
 From Bagnoli to Pozzuoli, ^^M., the road skirts the coast, 
 commanding delightful views. In the lava hills which rise near 
 the sea, not far from Pozzuoli, are extensive quarries (Petriere), 
 where two hundred convicts are employed. 
 
 Pozzuoli. — Hotels. Gran Brettagna, on the hill, in the street 
 ascending to the right at the entrance of the town , well spoken of ; 
 Ponte di Caligola , near the harbour, in the small Piazza S. M. delle 
 Grazie. — Restaurant. Bella Venezia , on the quay. (Bargaining necessary 
 everywhere.) 
 
 Guides, whose services may well be dispensed with (p. 95), assail 
 the traveller pertinaciously the moment he arrives. Their demands are 
 generally extravagant. For a walk through the town, to the Amphitheatre, 
 and the temple of Serapis 1 fr., or, with the addition of the Solfatara, 
 l l /a fr. suffices. — The guides and others also importune visitors to buy 
 4 antiquities' 1 which are manufactured at Naples and then buried to give 
 them the requisite coating of rust or verdigris. Genuine antiquities may 
 be purchased of the Canonico Criscio , in the road ascending to the right 
 from the entrance to the town. 
 
 Carriage with one horse to Cumse or Baja 3-4, to both 5-6 fr. ; seat in 
 a ‘corricolo’’ V 2 -I fr. — Donkeys (bad) 2-3 fr. for an afternoon. — Boat 
 to Baja for 3-4 persons, in 1 / 2 * 1 hr., about 2 fr. 
 
 If the traveller takes a carriage from Pozzuoli to Baja he had better 
 drive at once to the Solfatara (walking, however, for the last 5 min.), 
 then to the Amphitheatre, and lastly to the Serapeum. The harbour may 
 be visited in returning. — Comp, the Plan. 
 
 Pozzuoli , a quiet town witli 16,000 inhab., situated on a 
 projecting hill and at its base, on the bay of the same name, 
 which forms part of the Bay of Naples, was founded at an early 
 period by the Greeks and named by them Dicaearchia. It was 
 subdued by the Romans in the Samnite wars, repeatedly colo- 
 nised by them, and called by them Puteoli. It afterwards be- 
 came the most important commercial city in Italy, and the prin- 
 cipal depot for the traffic with Egypt and the East, whence 
 

 
 
CONTORNI ns NAPOLI. 
 
 (PARTE OCCIDENTALE) 
 
 ScalsL nel liioo.ooo 
 
 Abbrcviazioni Gr* Gratia*, F*F Puntcv, Fir" Jiiewra*. 
 So. Scogiio, SpT Spiaggia*, T? Torre., V? Villa*, V? TJJlanc. 
 
 Lithogr.v. BuscK * VeirSrer . 
 
of Naples. 
 
 POZZUOLI. 
 
 5. Route. 97 
 
 Oriental forms of worship were introduced here at an early pe- 
 riod. St. Paul once spent seven days here (Acts, xxviii). Its 
 ruins , which lie close to the modern town , are now the only 
 indication of its ancient importance. The town itself presents 
 few attractions. — The volcanic puzzolana earth found in the 
 whole of this district, from which an almost indestructible ce- 
 ment is manufactured, derives its name from Pozzuoli. 
 
 At the entrance to the town a broad paved road ascends to 
 the right in windings, leading to the upper town, the Amphi- 
 theatre, and the Solfatara (see below). 
 
 Entering by the gate we soon reach the principal Piazza, 
 in which rise the statue of a senator, hearing the name of Q. 
 Flav. Mavortius Lollianus , discovered in 1704 (head formed of a 
 separate block , hut also ancient) , and that of Bishop Leon y 
 Cardenas , Viceroy of Sicily under Philip III. 
 
 Proceeding in a straight direction, and turning to the left 
 by the church of S. Maria delle Grazie, we come to the Harbour, 
 where we see the remains of the ancient pier, called by Seneca 
 Pilae , by Suetonius Moles Puteolanae , and now Ponte di Cali- 
 yola. Of twenty-five buttresses , which supported twenty-four 
 arches, sixteen are left, three being under water. They are 
 constructed of bricks and puzzolana earth, and hear an in- 
 scription recording that the pier was restored by Antoninus Pius. 
 A common , hut erroneous impression is , that they were con- 
 nected with the bridge - of - boats which Caligula threw across 
 the hay of Bai®, in order that, clad in the armour of Alexander 
 the Great , he might there celebrate his insane triumph over 
 the Parthians. Route along the quay to the Serapeum, see below. 
 
 If at the first bend in the above - mentioned road which leads 
 to the upper part of the town we turn to the left we soon reach 
 the Piazza del Municipio , commanding a fine view, whence we 
 may follow the Via del Duomo and its second side-street to the 
 left to the cathedral of 8. Proculo. It occupies the site of 
 a temple of Augustus, erected by L. Calpurnius, six Corinthian 
 columns from which are still outside. The church contains relics 
 of St. Proculus and the monuments of the Duke of Montpensier 
 and Giovanni Battista Pergolese of Jesi, the talented composer 
 of the original Stahat Mater, who died in 1736 at the age of 26.' 
 
 At the extreme N. end of the town begins a narrow street 
 (hearing the inscription ‘Bagni di Serapide ’) which leads from the 
 sea to the *Temple of Serapis, or Serapeum (fee V 2 known 
 as early as 1538, hut not completely excavated till 1750. It con- 
 sisted of a square court, enclosed by forty-eight massive marble 
 and granite columns , and with thirty-two small chambers ad- 
 joining. The portico rested on six Corinthian columns (three of 
 which remain), hearing a rich frieze. In the centre of the court 
 stood a circular temple, surrounded by a peristyle of sixteen 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 7 
 
98 Route 5. 
 
 POZZUOLI. 
 
 Environs 
 
 Corinthian pillars of African marble , which have been trans- 
 ferred to the theatre of the palace at Caserta (p. 10), the bases 
 alone being left. The interior was approached by four flights of 
 steps. The pavement declined inwards towards the centre, where 
 the statues of Serapis, now in the museum at Naples, were 
 foupd. Two inscriptions found here mention the restoration of the 
 temple by Marcus Aurelius and Septimius Severus. The lower 
 parts of the ruin are under water, but the level of the ground has 
 recently been raised, in order to prevent unhealthy exhalations. 
 
 In the course of centuries a species of shellfish ( lithodomus , or modiola 
 liihophaga , still found in this vicinity) had undermined the bases of the 
 central columns, whilst the upper parts remained intact. Interesting obser- 
 vations may be made here with respect to the changes which have taken 
 place in the level of the sea at different periods. That it had risen con- 
 siderably, even in ancient times, is proved by the fact that mosaics have 
 been found 6 ft. below the present level of the pavement. After the decline 
 of heathenism the sea continued to rise, as the different watermarks testify. 
 Subsequently the lower part of the edifice was buried to a depth of 13 ft., 
 probably by an eruption of Solfatara, and thus protected against the farther 
 invasions of the Crustacea. These extend to a height of 9 ft., so that at 
 one period the sea-level must have been at least 20 ft. higher than at 
 present. This great change was caused by the convulsion connected with 
 the upheaval of Monte Nuovo (p. 100) in 1538. Since the last century the 
 ground has again been gradually sinking. The salt springs in the ruins 
 were called into existence by the last eruption. 
 
 The Temple of Neptune is a name applied to another ruin, to the WJ 
 of the Serapeum , consisting of a few pillars rising from the sea. In the 
 vicinity, also under water, is situated the so-called Temple of the Nymphs , 
 from which a considerable number of columns and sculptures have been 
 recovered. A little farther on, a few fragments indicate the site of Cicero’s 
 Puteolaneum , a villa delightfully situated on the coast, with shady avenues, 
 which the orator in imitation of Plato called his Academy, and where he 
 composed his ‘Academica’ and ‘De Fato’. Hadrian , who died at Baise, 
 A.D. 138, was interred within the precincts of Cicero’s villa, and Anto- 
 ninus Pius afterwards erected a temple on the spot. 
 
 On leaving the Serapeum , we proceed to the right, and by 
 a fountain again to the right, after 4 min. cross the high road, 
 and ascend the broad paved road to the left to an open space, 
 whence the Via Anftteatro leads after about 250 paces to the 
 Amphitheatre , the most interesting and perfect of all the ruins 
 of Pozzuoli (admission 2 fr. ; Sundays gratis). 
 
 The * Amphitheatre rests on three series of arches, which were 
 surrounded by an external court ; the two principal entrances were 
 adorned with triple colonnades. The interior contained four tiers of 
 seats in several compartments ( cunei ), connected by flights of steps. 
 The imperial seat was distinguished by Corinthian columns of black 
 marble. The arena, 369 ft. long, and 216 ft. broad, was excavated 
 in 1838 , when a number of subterranean passages and receptacles 
 for the wild beasts, etc., 98 paces long and 53 broad, were dis- 
 covered , affording us a distinct idea of the arrangements and 
 machinery of the ancient amphitheatres. By means of a water 
 conduit (to the left of the principal entrance) the arena could be laid 
 under water when naval combats were to be represented; the 
 
of Naples. 
 
 SOLFATARA. 
 
 5. Route. 99 
 
 outlet is in the principal passage. The entrances for the gla- 
 diators, and the air-holes and outlets of the dens of the animals 
 are easily recognised. The celebrated gladiator-combats under 
 Nero, when he received Tiridates, King of Armenia, as a guest 
 at his court, took place here, and even the emperor himself 
 entered the arena. Under Diocletian St. Januarius and his 
 companions were thrown to the wild beasts here in vain, as an 
 inscription on the chapel dedicated to him records, before they 
 were put to death near the Solfatara. The high ground near the 
 amphitheatre commands a line view in the direction of Misenum. 
 
 Above the amphitheatre was situated a theatre , the ruins of which 
 have not yet been excavated. Other ruins in the vicinity, externally of 
 circular construction, are believed to have been either Baths or a Temple 
 of Diana. The Villa Lusciano contains the so-called Labyrinth , really a 
 piscina, or ancient reservoir. The Piscina Grande , with vaulted ceiling, 
 resting on three rows of ten columns each, still serves as a reservoir, and 
 was doubtless once connected with the ancient Julian aqueduct from the 
 Pausilypon to Misenum. 
 
 Roman Tombs have been discovered in great numbers on the old 
 roads, the Via Campana leading to Capua, the Via Puteolana to Naples, 
 and the Via Cumana to Cumse, but are now mere shapeless ruins. 
 
 We now return to the Piazza del Municipio (p. 97), from the 
 opposite end of which, by the small church ‘Deiparae Consolatrici 
 Sacrum’, the road to the entrance of the town descends to the 
 right (p. 96) , while that to the Solfatara leads to the left. 
 The latter (after 2 min. , to the right, afterwards to the left) 
 ascends through vineyards. The ascent to the Solfatara on foot 
 takes 20 min. ; donkey 1 fr. (not recommended). 
 
 The *Solfatara (adm. V‘2 fr- each person) is the crater of a 
 half extinct volcano, an oblong space enclosed by hills of pumice- 
 stone, from fissures (‘fumaroli’) in which vapours and sulphureous 
 gases ascend. The ground is hollow in every direction. The 
 ancients (Strabo) called this crater Forum Vulcani , and believed 
 it to be connected with the crater of Ischia. The only recorded 
 eruption from it, attended with an emission of lava, took place 
 in 1198. A manufactory of stucco is now established here. 
 
 Above the Solfatara, towards the E. , rise the Colles Leucogaei , the 
 white hills whose light-coloured dust was so highly prized by the an- 
 cients for colouring groats and other kinds of grain. Several small brooks 
 containing alum have their source here, called I Pisciarelli , the Fontes 
 Leucogaei of the ancients (Plin. Nat. Hist. xxxi. 2) , which fall steaming 
 into a ravine between the Solfatara and the Lago d'Agnano, and are fre- 
 quently used as a remedy for cutaneous diseases. The ground is warm 
 and saturated with gas in every direction. 
 
 Shortly before our route reaches the Solfatara it is joined on 
 the right by a road coming from the Lago d’Agnano (p. 95). The 
 *View on the latter road is so fine that the traveller should not omit 
 to ascend as far as (6 min.) the now suppressed Capuchin monas- 
 tery of S. Gennaro , erected in 1580 on the spot where St. Janu- 
 arius is said to have been beheaded in 305. 
 
 7 * 
 
100 Route, 5. 
 
 LACUS AVERNUS. 
 
 Environs 
 
 The high-road (carriages, see p. 96) which leads towards the 
 W. from Pozzuoli divides at the foot of the Monte Nuovo, nearly 
 l 4 / 2 M. beyond the town. The branch to the right leads to the 
 Lago Averno, Arco Felice, and Cumae (pp. 104-6) ; that to the left 
 to Baiae and Misemim (‘Strada di Miniscola’). 
 
 The Monte Nuovo (456 ft.) is a volcanic hill of comparatively 
 recent origin, having been upheaved on 30th Sept. 1538, after 
 a violent earthquake. Its form is that of an obtuse cone, in the 
 Centre of which is a deep extinct crater, enclosed by masses of 
 pumice-stone, trachyte, and tufa. The ascent is interesting. 
 
 The road to Baiae (2^4 M. from the above-mentioned bifur- 
 cation) traverses the narrow strip of land which now separates the 
 Laous LucTinus from the sea. Here stands the small but clean 
 Hotel de Russie (D. 3, dej. 2, bottle of wine 4 / 2 , pens. 5 fr.). 
 
 The Lacus Lucrinus, which was famed for its oysters in an- 
 cient times, was separated from the sea by a bulwark, called 
 the Via Herculea , from the tradition that the hero traversed it 
 when driving the bulls of Geryon across the swamps. This barrier 
 afterwards fell to decay and was again repaired, but was seri- 
 ously damaged by the eruption of Monte Nuovo in 1538. Part 
 of it, 250 yds. in length, is still visible under the water, where 
 remains of the Portus Julius , or harbour constructed by Agrippa, 
 are also distinguishable. Instead of oysters, the lake now yields 
 the spigola , a fish much esteemed by the Neapolitans. 
 
 About 4 / 2 M. to the N. of the Lacus Lucrinus, a little in- 
 land, bounded on three sides by hills clothed with chestnuts, 
 vineyards, and orange-gardens, lies the celebrated *Lacus Avernus, 
 which was regarded by the ancients as the entrance to the infernal 
 regions on account of its sombre situation and environs. Its 
 banks are now bordered with blocks of lava. Circumference 
 nearly 2 M.; depth 210 ft. ; height above the sea-level 3y 2 ft. 
 Tradition affirmed that no bird could fly across it and live, owing 
 to its poisonous exhalations, and that the neighbouring ravines 
 were the abode of the dismal, sunless Cimmerii, mentioned by 
 Homer (Odyss. xi). Virgil, too, represents this as the scene of 
 the descent of .Eneas, conducted by the Sibyl, to the infernal 
 regions (,/En. vi. 237). Augustus, by the construction of the 
 Julian harbour, and by connecting this lake with the Lacus 
 Lucrinus, was the first to dispel these gloomy legends. Horace and 
 Virgil accordingly extol the harbour as a prodigy. — The canals 
 and wharves of Agrippa were still in existence in 1538, but the 
 upheaval of the Monte Nuovo destroyed every vestige of them, 
 half filled the Lucrine lake, and so altered the configuration of the 
 neighbourhood that the two lakes are now quite separate, and the 
 intervening space is completely overgrown with underwood. In 
 1858 an attempt was made to convert the Lacus Avernus anew 
 into a war-harbour, but the scheme was soon found impracticable. 
 
of Naples. 
 
 BAJA. 
 
 5. Route. 101 
 
 On the S. Side of the lake are observed grottoes and cuttings, hewn 
 in the tuffstone rock, which probably once belonged to the Portus Julius. 
 One of these caverns, situated a few hundred paces to the left of the end 
 of the road coming from the Lucrine Lake, and now called the Grotto 
 of the Sibyl, or Grotta d'Averno , is entered by a gateway of brick , and 
 consists of a long, damp passage hewn in the rocks and ventilated by 
 vertical apertui*es. About midway between the two lakes a narrow pas- 
 sage to the right leads to a small square chamber, the 4 Entrance, to the 
 Infernal Regions'. Near it is a chamber with mosaic pavement and ar- 
 rangements for a warm bath. It contains luke-warm water, 1 ft. in 
 depth, which rises in the neighbourhood / and is styled by the guides the 
 'Bath of the Sibyl'. The grotto is 280 paces in length, and blackened with 
 the smoke of torches. 
 
 On the N.W. Side of the lake is one end of the Grotta della Pace 
 (p. 105). 
 
 On the E. Side are the interesting ruins of magnificent Baths , some 
 times called a Temple of Apollo , Pluto , or Mercury. 
 
 Having returned to the Baja road, we reach, about 1/2 M. from 
 the Lucrine Lake , the ruins of ancient baths , called Le Stufe 
 di Tritoli. Near them a path on the slope of the mountain leads to 
 the Bagni di Nerone , a long, narrow, dark passage in the rock, 
 at the farther end of which rise several warm springs, the famed 
 Thermae Neronianae of antiquity, and still frequented by invalids. 
 
 The water is hot enough to boil eggs (1 fr. ; admission to the baths 
 i /2 fr.). But there is nothing worth seeing, and the interior is so hot that 
 a visit to it is anything but pleasant. 
 
 After we have ascended a little and rounded the projecting 
 Punta dell 1 Epitaffio , a charming view of Baja is disclosed to us. 
 On the hill to the right we observe innumerable fragments of old 
 masonry, passages, colonnades , mosaic-pavements, etc., all now 
 overgrown with plants and buried in rubbish. 
 
 Baja. — Hotel della Regina, a tavern commanding a charming 
 view, not suitable for spending the night ; bargaining advisable in spite of 
 the announcement of fixed charges, D. 3^4 fr., A. 25 c.*, Albergo della 
 V ittoria, at the foot of the castle, 72 M. farther, less pretentious. — Guide 
 unnecessary, 1-1 72 fr. according to bargain 5 Giosafatta de Lucio may be 
 recommended. 
 
 Boat to Pozzuoli for 3-4 persons about 2 fr. ; to Bacoli and Miseno 
 the same; there and back 3-4 fr. ; according to bargain in each case. 
 
 Baja, the ancient Baice , now a very insignificant village, situat- 
 ed on the bay of the same name and commanding a charming view 
 was the most famous and magnificent watering-place of antiquity, 
 and had attained the zenith of its splendour in the age of Cicero, 
 Augustus, Nero, and Hadrian. ‘Nothing in the world can be com- 
 pared with the lovely bay of Baise’, exclaims Horace’s wealthy Ro- 
 man (Epist. i. 85) , who is desirous of erecting a magnificent villa 
 there. Luxury and profligacy, however, soon took np their abode 
 at Baiae, and the desolate ruins which now alone encounter the eye 
 point the usual moral. With the decline of the Roman empire the 
 glory of Baise speedily departed. In the 8th cent, it was devastated 
 by the Saracens, and in 1500 entirely deserted by its inhabitants. 
 
 Of the imposing baths and villas of the Romans , the founda- 
 tions of which were often thrown far out into the sea, nothing but 
 mere fragments now remain. In modern times these ruins are often 
 
102 Route 5 * 
 
 BACOLI. 
 
 Environs 
 
 exalted into temples, or otherwise dignified in a manner for which 
 there is not the slightest foundation. The principal remains consist 
 of three extensive colonnades which belonged to baths. 
 
 We first observe in a vineyard to the right of the high road, and 
 to the N. of the road to the Lago Fusaro, a large octagonal build- 
 ing, with a circular interior, and four recesses in the walls, and 
 remains of a water conduit, styled a Temple of Diana (fee 30-50 c.). 
 
 If we ascend the road to the Lago Fusaro for 5 min. we reach a 
 path to the right on the slope, which in 10 min. more leads us to the 
 top of the hill, and commands an admirable view of Cumae, Ischia, etc. 
 
 Close to the village, in another vineyard to the right of the road, 
 is a large circular building, with a vaulted ceiling, open in the 
 centre, and four niches in the walls, obviously a bath, but called 
 a Temple of Mercury , or by the peasantry il troglio (trough). Fine 
 echo in the interior (fee 30-50 c. ; women here offer to dance the 
 tarantella for the traveller’s entertainment, 50 c.). 
 
 A little farther on, to the right, is the Hotel della Regina. 
 About 100 paces beyond it, to the left, by the small harbour where 
 the boats from Pozzuoli land , is situated an octagonal structure 
 with a vaulted ceiling, in the interior circular, and 25 paces in 
 diameter, with remains of the ancient lateral chambers, windows, 
 and staircases , somewhat resembling the Minerva Medica at 
 Rome, now called the Temple of Venus. (As this is a public 
 thoroughfare, no gratuity need be given.) 
 
 The high road skirts the bay, and passing several columbaria 
 on the left, ascends the hill occupied by the Castle of Baja , which 
 was erected in the 16th cent, by Don Pedro de Toledo. 
 
 About 2 M. beyond Raja we reach the village of Bacoli, which 
 derives its name from the ancient Villa Bauli , and also boasts of a 
 number of antiquities. The traveller who is pressed for time, how- 
 ever, had better confine his attention to the Piscina Mirabilis 
 (see below). 
 
 The Villa Bauli is celebrated as having been the frequent residence of 
 distinguished Romans , and it was here that Nero planned the murder of 
 his mother Agrippina, in March, A.D. 59, a crime which was afterwards 
 perpetrated at her villa on the Lucrine Lake. The tomb of Agrippina, of 
 humble pretensions as Tacitus informs us (Ann. xiv. 9), was situated on 
 the height by the road to Misenum, near the villa of Caesar, but the 
 spot cannot now be exactly determined. What is commonly named the 
 Sepolcro cT Agrippina, on the coast below the village, a semicircular pass- 
 age with vaulted ceiling, reliefs, and paintings, is really the ruins of a 
 small theatre. Extensive ruins near this, partly under water, are supposed 
 to belong to the villa of the eminent orator Hortensius, and may be visited 
 by boat. Even the pond in which he reared his favourite lampreys is 
 said to be visible. In this villa Nero is believed to have sanctioned the 
 proposition of his freedman Anicetus, commander of the fleet, to drown 
 his mother Agrippina by sinking her in a ship. The attempt, however, 
 failed. 
 
 The Villa of Julius Caesar , on the height near Bauli, was afterwards 
 the property of Augustus, and was occupied by his sister Octavia after the 
 death of her second husband M. Antony; and here she lost her hopeful 
 son, the youthful Marcellus, whom Augustus had destined to be his suc- 
 cessor. It is believed by many that the subterranean chambers, known as 
 
of Naples. 
 
 MISENUM. 
 
 5. Route. 103 
 
 the Cento Camerelle, or Carceri di Nerone , or the Labyrinth , belonged to 
 the basement story of this villa ( fee x )i fr. ). They are sometimes 
 visited by torchlight, but the view from them is the chief attraction. 
 
 On the hill to the S. of Bacoli, 10 min. from the entrance to 
 the village, is situated the * Piscina Mirabilis. (Guide unnecessary. 
 We may either leave the road by the Uffizio Daziario and follow 
 the long street of the village ; or, better , follow the road to the 
 bifurcation mentioned below , and 60 paces beyond it ascend a 
 path diverging to the left from the Misenum road. On the hill we 
 turn to the right. Custodian, whose house is on the right, near 
 the Piscina, V‘2 ^ r - ? he sells vases and other antiquities found in 
 the vicinity.) The Pisoina is a reservoir at the extremity of the 
 Julian Aqueduct , 230 ft. in length, 85 ft. in width, with a vault- 
 ed ceiling supported by forty -eight massive columns, and ad 
 mirably preserved. — Following the top of the hill in the same 
 direction (S.) for 7 min. more, we reach a cottage (good wine), the 
 roof of which commands a very fine view, though inferior to that 
 from the Capo Miseno. 
 
 Near Bacoli, about */ 4 M. beyond the Uffizio Daziario, the road 
 divides : the branch to the right leads to Miniscola and the 
 ( 2 / 3 M.) starting-point of the ferry-boat to Procida and Ischia (see 
 p. 107) ; the road to the left leads in a straight direction to Misenum. 
 Both of these roads skirt the margin of the shallow Mare Morte, 
 part of the old harbour of Misenum , from which it has only 
 recently been separated by the embankment which bears the road. 
 The two basins are now connected by a narrow channel only, which 
 is crossed by a bridge. 
 
 In the time of Augustus a vast war-harbour was constructed at Mise- 
 num by Agrippa , in connection with the works at the Lacus Avernus 
 and the Lacus Lucrinus, in order to serve as a receptacle for the Roman 
 fleet on this coast, like Ravenna in the Adriatic. The harbour consisted 
 of three basins, two outer, one on each side of the promontory called 
 Forno , and one inner, the present Mare Morto. The Punta di Pennata , 
 a narrow promontory which bounds the harbour of Misenum on the N., 
 was penetrated by a double subaqueous passage for the purpose of pre- 
 venting the accumulation of sand at the entrance. A pier was also con- 
 structed on pillars, three of which are still visible under water. Other 
 relics of antiquity abound in the neighbourhood , but it is a difficult 
 matter now to ascertain to what they belonged. Even the situation of 
 the Town of Misenum is not precisely known , although it probably lay 
 near the modern village of that name. Scanty remnants of a theatre are 
 still traceable near the small promontory II Forno. Some ruins on the 
 height above are supposed to belong to the once famous villa of Lucullus, 
 afterwards the property of Tiberius, who died here, and subsequently 
 that of Nero. The Grotta Dragonara , a long subterranean passage on 
 the W. side of the promontory, with vaulted roof, supported by twelve 
 pillars, is variously conjectured to have been a naval depot or a reser- 
 voir for water. 
 
 The fleet stationed at Misenum, to which the place owed its impor- 
 tance, was commanded in A.D. 79 by the Elder Pliny, who perished 
 during the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius (p. 118). In 890 the town was de- 
 stroyed by the Saracens. 
 
 Driving is not allowed beyond the above-mentioned bridge, 
 74 M. from the bifurcation of the road. Beyond it we pass a 
 
104 Routes. 
 
 CAPO MISENO. 
 
 Environs 
 
 white powder-mill, soon reach (!/ 2 M.) the village of Miseno , 
 situated at the foot of the cape, and proceed to the church. The 
 ascent (to the top and hack iy 2 hr. ) is fatiguing. We follow 
 the main road to the Tenuta , a little before which we ascend to 
 the right; a steep and narrow path then leads to the summit 
 through vineyards. 
 
 The *Capo Miseno is an isolated mass of rock rising from the 
 sea, which was formerly only connected with the mainland by the 
 narrow Spiaggia diMiniscola (see below), extending towards the W. 
 Its remarkable form once gave rise to the belief that it was an 
 artificially constructed tumulus of very ancient origin. Thus Virgil 
 (iEn. vi. 232) describes it as the burial-place of the trumpeter 
 Misenus : — 
 
 At pius JZneas ingenti mole sepulcrum 
 Inponit , suaque arma viro remumque tubamque 
 Monte sub aereo , qui nunc Misenus ab illo 
 Dicitur aeternumque tenet per saecula nomen. 
 
 The summit (300 ft.) is crowned with a ruined castle. On the 
 side next the sea rises a picturesque mediaeval watch-tower; an- 
 other similar tower has recently been removed to make way for 
 a lighthouse. The **View hence is one of the most striking in 
 the environs of Naples. It embraces the bays of Naples and Gaeta 
 and the surrounding heights, with the peculiarity that the spectator 
 appears to stand in the midst of a complicated assemblage of straits, 
 peninsulas, bays, lakes, and promontories. 
 
 To the W., opposite the Capo Miseno, rises the Monte di Pro - 
 cida , a volcanic rook, covered with vineyards yielding excellent 
 wine, and fragments of ancient villas. 
 
 The narrow strip of coast, about 1 M. in length , between the 
 Capo Miseno and the Monte di Procida, separating the sea ( Canale 
 di Procida) from the Mare Morto, is called the Spiaggia di Minis- 
 cola , or Miliscola , a name which is said to be a corruption of Militis 
 Schola (‘military exercising-ground’). At the foot of the Monte di 
 Procida, at the point where the road from Baja reaches it, is the 
 landing-place (Sbarcatojo) for boats to Ischia and Procida, to which 
 there are frequent opportunities of crossing. (To Procida , for one 
 or more persons l!/ 2 -2fr. ; the bargain should be made with the 
 boatmen themselves.) — On the road to Baja, y 4 M. to the N. of 
 the landing-place, at the junction of the road with that from the 
 Lago Fusaro , is the poor Osteria del Monte di Procida (no sign ; 
 good wine). 
 
 The N. (right) branch of the road ascends gradually from the 
 bifurcation at the foot of the Monte Nuovo (p. 100), iy 2 M. from 
 Pozzuoli, to the top of the E. margin of the crater of the Lago 
 Averno, which soon becomes visible below to the left. About 2M. 
 farther, where the road turns a little to the right, a cart-track di- 
 verges to the left, leading in a few minutes to the Arco Felice, a 
 
of Naples. 
 
 CUM . 
 
 5. Route. 105 
 
 huge structure of brickwork, about 63 ft. in height, and lB 1 ^ ft. 
 in width, situated in a deep gully. On the summit are traces of 
 an aqueduct. The arch may have been exclusively destined for 
 the latter purpose, or it may also have carried a road over the high- 
 er ground. 
 
 The road to Cumae passes through the arch and then descends. 
 About 400 paces beyond it an ancient paved way diverges to the 
 left to a subterranean vaulted passage , called the Grotta della Pace 
 (after Pietro della Pace , a Spaniard who explored it in the 16th 
 cent.). It was constructed by Agrippa for the purpose of affording 
 direct communication between Cumae and the Lacus Avernus. This 
 tunnel is upwards of 1/2 M. in length, and is lighted at intervals 
 by shafts from above. 
 
 The entrance is closed by a gate (admission l /2 fr.), which carriages 
 are not allowed to pass. Torches, which are, however, unnecessary, are 
 offered for sale at Pozzuoli (1 fr. per pair). — Travellers from Cumae, or 
 those who wish to combine the excursion to Baja with a visit to the La- 
 cus Avernus in such a way as not to be obliged to traverse the same 
 ground twice, may avail themselves of this tunnel in order to reach the 
 N. bank of the lake (see p. 100). 
 
 We continue to follow the road to Cumae, the acropolis of which 
 we observe on the hill to theW. About 1/2 M. from the Arco Felice 
 near the entrance to a vigna bearing the name ‘Villa Martino’, the 
 road forks : to the left to the Lago del Fusaro (p. 106) 5 to the 
 right (but not practicable for carriages beyond this point) to Cumae. 
 In a vigna to the left of the former branch of the road, about 120 
 paces from the bifurcation, is situated an ancient Amphitheatre with 
 twenty-one tiers of seats, covered with earth and underwood. If 
 we follow the branch of the road to the right, and after 90 paces 
 diverge from it to the left, we are led through a farm-yard and by 
 a path through vineyards in */ 4 hr. to the site of ancient Cumae. 
 
 Cumse, Greek Cyme , the most ancient Greek colony in Italy, was 
 situated near the sea on a volcanic eminence (trachyte), which 
 rises from the extensive plain between the Monte di Procida and 
 the mouth of the Volturno. 
 
 The town is said to have been founded by iEolians from Asia Minor 
 in B.C. 1050, or at an even earlier period. Cumae in its turn founded 
 Dicaearcliia, the modern Pozzuoli, and Palaeopolis, the modern Naples, and 
 exercised the most widely extended influence on the civilisation of the 
 Italian peninsula. All the different alphabets of Italy were derived from 
 the Cumaean; and Cumae was the centre whence the Hellenic forms of 
 worship, and with them Hellenic culture, became gradually diffused among 
 the aboriginal tribes. Rome received the mysterious Sibylline books from 
 Cumae, and the last of the Tarquinii died here in exile. The city, which 
 once boasted of great wealth and commercial prosperity, was often seri- 
 ously imperilled by the attacks of the neighbouring tribes, especially the 
 Etruscans , who were signally defeated in a naval battle near Cumae , by 
 Hiero of Syracuse , the ally of the citizens , B.C. 474. Pindar cele- 
 brates this victory in the first Pythian ode , and a helmet of the en- 
 emy dedicated at Olympia as a votive offering from the spoil was found 
 there (now in the British Museum). At the close of the 5th cent. Cumae 
 participated in the general decline of the Hellenic towns. In 420 it was 
 stormed by the Samnites, and in 337 taken by the Romans, after which 
 
1 06 Route 5. 
 
 LAGO DEL FUSARO. 
 
 Environs 
 
 it became a Roman municipium of little importance. Under the emperors 
 it fell entirely to decay, but was restored by the Goths. In the 9th cent, 
 it was burned by the Saracens, and in the 13tli it was finally destroyed 
 as a stronghold of pirates by the inhabitants of Naples and Aversa. 
 
 Fragments of the huge external walls of the lofty * Acropolis 
 are still standing. Beautiful prospect thence towards the sea, 
 Gaeta, and the Ponza Islands, and (to the left) of the Lago Fusaro, 
 Ischia, etc. Extensive remains of the ancient fortifications are 
 preserved, especially on the E. side and by the S. entrance. The 
 rock on which this castle stands is perforated in every direction 
 with passages and shafts. One of these (descend to the left by the 
 hut), with numerous lateral openings and subterranean passages, is 
 thought to correspond with the description given by Virgil (M n. 
 vi. 41) of the Grotto of the Sibyl , which had a hundred entrances 
 and as many issues, ‘whence resound as many voices, the oracles 
 of the prophetess ’. The principal entrance is on the side of the 
 hill towards the sea, but most of the passages are blocked up. It 
 is believed that one of the passages leads to a large, dark cavern 
 in the direction of the Lago del Fusaro, but the investigations have 
 been abandoned as dangerous. — The form of the temples of 
 Apollo , Diana , the Giants , and Serapis , where recent excava- 
 tions have brought sculptures and columns to light , is not now 
 traceable. The scanty ruins are concealed among vineyards and 
 underwood. 
 
 Numerous tombs have been discovered at the base of the rock of Cumae, 
 many of which were explored by the Count of Syracuse and yielded a 
 rich spoil, consisting of vases and valuables of every kind. Some of these 
 were taken to the collection of Marchese Campana at Rome , whence they 
 were afterwards transferred to the Museums of Paris and St. Petersburg. 
 
 To the S. of Cumae is situated (l */2 M.) the Lago del Fusaro, perhaps 
 once the harbour of Cumae, to which the poetical name of the Acherusian 
 Lake is sometimes applied. It is still, as in ancient times, celebrated for 
 its oysters. In the centre is a pavilion, erected by Ferdinand I. The lake 
 is believed to be the crater of an extinct volcano , and as lately as 1838 
 it exhaled such volumes of mephitic gases that the oysters were destroyed 
 by them. At the S. end of the lake is a Roman ‘emissarius 1 , the Foce del 
 Fusaro , which connects it with the sea. To the N. of the emissarius, on 
 a projecting tongue of land , stands the Torre di Oaveta , with extensive 
 ruins of the villa of Servilius Vatia, who retired hither when Nero’s folly 
 and tyranny at Rome had become insufferable. — A road leads from the 
 Lago del Fusaro , passing numerous relics of ancient tombs , to ( 3 /4 M.) 
 Baja , and another to (2^2 M.) Miniscola (p. 104). 
 
 6. Procida and Ischia. 
 
 Comp, the Map. 
 
 A visit to these charming islands requires two days. A Steamboat 
 ( Societa Anonima di Navigazione a Vapore Procida- Ischia ; office at Naples, 
 Strada Nuova 14) plies between Naples and Casamicciola in Ischia once 
 daily (sometimes twice in summer), in 2 l /%-3 hrs. (fai*e 5 fr.), the inter- 
 vening stations being Procida and the town of Ischia. It usually starts 
 from the Molo Piccolo at Naples (p. 39} near the Immacolatella, PI. F, 5) 
 at 1 or 2 p.m., returning from Casamicciola at 5 or 6. a.m. The steam- 
 boat starting from Naples every Tuesday at 7 a.m. for the Ponza Islands 
 (returning on Thursday) also calls at Procida and Ischia. Farther infor- 
 
Scala nel 1 ; 100.000 
 
of Naples. 
 
 PROCIDA. 
 
 5. Route. 107 
 
 mation may be obtained at any of the hotels. The steamers are small and 
 sometimes crowded. Embarking or landing at Naples, or at Casamicciola, 
 20 c. each person ; at Procida or Ischia 10 c. ; the boatmen are rarely sat- 
 isfied with this tariff, but their importunities should be disregarded. 
 
 First Day. A visit to Procida, which may be paid either in going to or 
 returning from Ischia, occupies a few hours only. In the former case 
 we land at the town of Procida on the N. side, ascend to the fort for the 
 sake of the view, and then traverse the island lengthwise to the creek of 
 Chiajolella (2 M.), where boats are found for the crossing to Ischia (P/s fr.). 
 After landing in Ischia we walk (l 3 /4 hr.) or ride (donkey P /2 fr.) to 
 Casamicciola , and pass the night there (the inns at Procida and Ischia being 
 poor). On the Second Day we ascend the Epomeo , either going or returning 
 by Fono. 
 
 A visit to these islands may be very conveniently combined with the 
 excursion to Cumse and Baja. After breakfasting at Baja, we arrange to 
 start thence about 11 a. m., drive by Bacoli (p. 102; visit the Piscina 
 Mirabilis; see the view from the roof of the cottage; no time for the Capo 
 Miseno) to Miniscola in l-P /2 hr., cross to Procida (p. 104) in 3 / 4 -l hr. (visit 
 the castle if time permits, 2/4 hr.), and then proceed by steamboat to 
 Casamicciola (1 hr. ; fare 3 fr. 25c.). — The second day may then be spent 
 as indicated above , and on the third we return to Naples. — A rowing- 
 boat takes 6 hrs. to cross from Ischia to Capri in fine weather (20 fr.). 
 
 Procida, the Prochyta or Prochyte of the ancients, like its 
 sister island Ischia, with which it appears once to have been con- 
 nected, is of volcanic origin, being composed of pumice-stone 
 and lava. It consists of two contiguous craters, which now form 
 two semicircular bays, their S. margins having been destroyed 
 by the action of the sea. A third and smaller crater forms 
 the creek of Chiajolella, and a fourth the neighbouring island 
 of Vivara , which has been separated from Procida by some con- 
 vulsion of nature. The island is 2 M. in length, and of varying 
 width; population 14,100, whose occupations are fishing and the 
 cultivation of the vine and other fruit. The surface is somewhat 
 flat compared with that of its more majestic sister isle. 
 
 As the island of Procida is approached , the most conspic- 
 uous object is the fort, situated on the Punta di Rocciola, the 
 N.W. extremity. Below lies the town of Procida , extending a- 
 long the N. coast, partly built on the higher ground above, and 
 stretching thence towards the S. side. The white, glistening 
 houses with their flat roofs present a somewhat Oriental aspect. 
 On festivals, especially that of St. Michael (29th Sept.), the 
 women in commemoration of their ancient origin assume the 
 Greek costume (red upper garment with gold embroidery), and 
 perform the tarantella, their national dance. 
 
 The landing-place is on the N. side, and close to it is the in- 
 different Vittoria inn (R., B., and D.4-5 fr., bargaining necessary). 
 In order to reach the castle we follow the main street of the village 
 which ascends to the left by the Cafe del Commercio at the W. 
 end of the Marina, and take the first side-street to the left. This 
 leads to the small Piazza dei Martiri, where a tablet was placed in 
 1863 in memory of twelve Procidans who were executed during 
 the reaction of 1799 (fine view towards the S.). In 5 min. more 
 
108 Route 
 
 ISCHIA. 
 
 Environs 
 
 we reach the Castle , now a house of correction, situated on a pre- 
 cipitous rock, and commanding fine *Views of Procida and the 
 Epomeo, Capo Miseno, Capri, Vesuvius, and the peninsula of 
 Sorrento. 
 
 The above mentioned main street intersects the town from E. 
 to W., and is prolonged to the left by the SStrada Vittorio Ema- 
 nuele’, which runs between garden-walls and rows of houses, and 
 traverses the whole island towards the S.W. In 40 min. we reach 
 the Bay of Chiajolella , situated below the old chateau of S. Mar- 
 garita , and near the small olive -clad island of Vivara. At the 
 Chiajolella boats for the passage to Ischia are always to be found 
 ( 3 / 4 hr. ; fare l 1 ^ fr.). As soon as we have passed Vivara, we 
 obtain a view of Ischia with its beautiful hills, commanded by the 
 summit of the Epomeo, with the town and castle of Ischia in the 
 foreground. 
 
 Ischia, the Pithecusa , JEnaria , or Inarime of antiquity, and 
 the mediaeval Iscla , the largest island near Naples, is about 19 
 M. in circumference, without taking the numerous indentations 
 into account, and has 25,800 inhabitants, who are principally 
 engaged in fishing and the culture of the vine (white wine, light 
 and slightly acid) and other fruit. The climate is genial, the soil 
 extremely productive ; the scenery almost everywhere singularly 
 beautiful, for which it is indebted to its volcanic origin. Monte 
 Epomeo (the ancient Epomeus , or Epopeus ) was an active volcano 
 at a much earlier period than Vesuvius, and in consequence of 
 its eruptions the island was deserted in P>. C. 474 by the greater 
 number of the Greek inhabitants. Eruptions also took place in 
 B. C. 92, and in the reigns of Titus, Antoninus Pius, and 
 Diocletian. According to the ancient poets, the giant Typhosus, 
 transfixed by the thunderbolt of Jupiter, lay buried beneath this 
 mountain, like Enceladus under .Etna, periodically groaning and 
 causing fearful eruptions of fire. The last eruption recorded took 
 place in 1302. The stream of lava which on that occasion de- 
 scended to the sea near Ischia is not yet wholly covered with ve- 
 getation, and resembles a black seam athwart the landscape. 
 
 After the fall of Rome Ischia suffered many attacks and devastations 
 at the hands of the different lords of Italy, especially the Saracens in 813 
 and 847, the Pisans in 1135$ and the Emp. Henry VI. and his son 
 Frederick II. In 1282 it revolted with Sicily against the Anjou dynasty, 
 but was subdued by Charles II. of Naples in 1299, and has since been 
 united with the kingdom and shared its vicissitudes. The celebrated 
 general, the Marchese Pescara, was born in 1489 at the castle of Ischia, 
 which was afterwards gallantly defended by his sister Constance against 
 the forces of Louis XII. of France. As a reward, her family were invested 
 with the governorship of Ischia, which they retained till 1734. In 1525 
 Pescara's widow, Vittoria Colonna, celebrated alike for her talent and 
 beauty, the poetical friend of Michael Angelo, retired to Ischia to mourn 
 her husband's loss. So too Maria of Arragon in 1548, widow of the Mar- 
 chese del Vasto. 
 
of Naples. 
 
 ISCHIA. 
 
 6. Route. 109 
 
 The charming situation of this island has attracted numerous 
 visitors in all ages, and its influence is as fascinating as ever. 
 A sojourn here, particularly during the height of summer, is re- 
 commended on account of the refreshing coolness of the air. The 
 N. side, having been most exposed to volcanic action, is far more 
 beautiful than the S. The island abounds in thermal springs, 
 which occur most frequently on the N. side. The principal towns 
 are Ischia, Casamiecibla, and Forlo. 
 
 Ischia, the capital of the island, with 6800 inhab., and the 
 seat of a bishop, stretches picturesquely along the shore in the 
 form of a street, 1 M. in length, extending from the Castle on its 
 lofty isolated rock on the S. to the Punta Molina on the N. The 
 castle, erected by Alphonso V. of Arragon (Alphonso I. of Naples) 
 about 1450, and connected with the land by a stone pier, is only 
 shown by permission of the commandant, which may often be 
 obtained in the Stabilimento Bagni dTschia (see below). 
 
 The route to Casamicciola (4y 2 M.) is very beautiful at places. 
 From the landing-place at Ischia we follow the road to the right 
 in a straight direction, crossing the Lava delV Arso, or lava-stream 
 of 1302, which did not descend from Epomeo, but from a neigh- 
 bouring side-crater, where slag and pumice-stone are still observ- 
 ed. About 1 M. from Ischia , after passing a royal park and 
 casino on the left, we reach an old crater, formerly the Lake of 
 Ischia , which was connected with the sea in 1853-56 in order to 
 afford refuge to vessels in stormy weather. Near it are several 
 warm salt springs, which are used at the different establishments 
 of the Bagni d J Ischia (also called Porto d' Ischia). On the quay is 
 the small Caffe dei Yiaggiatori, with rooms and baths. 
 
 The road (‘Via Quercia’) ascends to the left by a yellow church 
 with Ionic columns, being accompanied by the telegraph wires, and 
 commanding a beautiful view of the rocky coast and the sea. 
 About 2i/ 2 M. farther we reach the first houses of Casamicciola, 
 and 1 M. beyond them the hotels. 
 
 Casamicciola. — Arrival by Steamer. The landing-place is 25 min. 
 walk from the loftily situated hotels ; landing or embarcation 20 c. ; don- 
 key to the hotels 50 c. ; road ascending to the right, not to be mistaken. 
 Order is now strictly maintained at the landing-place by the authorities. 
 Most of the hotels send a facchino to meet the steamboat. 
 
 Hotels , all fitted up for persons making a prolonged stay ; for pass- 
 ing visitors as dear as first-class hotels, though somewhat inferior. They 
 are all detached, situated in gardens, and commanding beautiful views. 
 "Hotel Bellevue , the yellow house farthest to the right, with the finest 
 view, visited by Garibaldi in 1863 ; La Gran Sentinella , a grotesque- 
 looking pink house , near the first. Lower down : "Hotel Piccola Sen- 
 tinella, a comfortable house, English landlady, R. 3, D. 4V'2, L. and A. 
 IV 2 , pension 7 fr., less for a prolonged stay. — Hotel Manzi, near the 
 bath-house. 
 
 Pensions. "Villa de Rivaz, 8fr.; "Villa Sauve, 7-8 fr., delightfully 
 situated; both near the Gran Sentinella; Villa Pisano, Monrepos (Villa 
 di Majo), 6-8 fr., etc. — Furnished rooms at the Villa Balsamo , at the 
 entrance to the town from Ischia , and in many other houses. 
 
110 Route 6. 
 
 ISCHIA. 
 
 Environs 
 
 Donkeys and Mules , strong and swift, , generally 1 fr. per hour ; for 
 the ascent of the Epomeo and back 3-4 fr., or including Forio 5 fr. 
 and fee. 
 
 Casamieciola, a village with 4200inhab., consisting of several 
 large groups of houses and a number of scattered dwellings , ex- 
 tends from the sea up the N. slope of the Epomeo. The higher 
 parts of it afford charming views, particularly towards the E., em- 
 bracing the N. creeks of the Bay of Naples as far as Mt. Vesuvius. 
 It is much frequented in summer (May to Aug.) for the sake of 
 its warm alkaline and saline springs. The baths of Manzi and 
 Belliazzi are well fitted up. The large bath hospital of the Monte 
 della Misericordia treats about 1000 patients annually. The chief 
 spring is the Gurgitello (upwards of 144° Fahr.), which, like most 
 of the others, rises in the Vallone Ombrasco. The traveller will 
 find this a pleasant place for a prolonged stay. 
 
 Many beautiful walks and excursions on donkey-back may be 
 taken from Casamieciola. Thus to the W. , to the village of Lacco , 
 situated on the lava-stream which forms the N.W. extremity of the 
 island. Here are situated the church and monastery of St. Resti- 
 tuta , the patroness of the island, on the occasion of whose festival 
 (17th May) numerous national costumes and dancers of the taran- 
 tella are observed. Near the monastery and in the garden attached 
 to it rise hot springs which are used for vapour-baths. Other plea- 
 sant excursions may be made with the help of the Map at p. 106. 
 
 Forio, the most populous place in the island after Ischia, 
 with 6500 inhab. , lies on the W. coast, 3 M. from Casamieciola, 
 whence a visit to it forms an agreeable excursion. The route by 
 Lacco should be chosen for returning. The Franciscan monastery 
 by the sea merits a visit on account of the beauty of its situation. 
 
 The Ascent of the Epomeo, the finest of all the excursions, 
 may be undertaken from any of the principal towns. It occupies 
 5-6 hrs., and is a very fatiguing walk. The ascent, for which 
 donkeys are generally used (see above), may be made either from 
 Casamieciola or by Forio and Panza, and the descent to Ischia 
 or Forio, in order that the traveller may thus become acquainted 
 with the greater part of the island. The descent to Ischia is 
 preferable for the sake of the fine view obtained of the bays of Poz- 
 zuoli and Naples. The afternoon and evening lights are the most 
 favourable for the view. A moonrise, too, is often very beautiful. 
 
 The route from Casamieciola first descends to the left by the 
 public rooms and follows the road to Ischia. The footpath then 
 ascends to the right, occasionally traversing precipitous ravines. 
 The vegetation changes ; below are vineyards, above them chest- 
 nut-woods, and then barren, rocky ground. Beyond the culminating 
 point of the pass, the path skirts the S. side of the mountain, 
 below the principal peaks , and ascends in long zigzags to the 
 hermitage (donkey in 2^2 hrs. ; on foot, direct, in 2 hrs.). 
 
 The **Epomeo (2625 ft.) falls away on the N. side almost per- 
 
of Naples. 
 
 ISCHIA. 
 
 6. Route. Ill 
 
 pendicularly, but is less steep on the other three sides. At the 
 top are a Hermitage and the Chapei of S. Nicola, hewn in the 
 volcanic rock , from which the mountain is also called Monte 
 S . Nicola. Wine and bread may be obtained from the hermit, and 
 in any case a trifling donation is expected. The tourists may also 
 inscribe their names in a visitors’ book. Passages and steps cut in 
 the rock ascend to the Belvedere , commanding a strikingly beauti- 
 ful panorama, embracing the bays of Gaeta and Naples. At our 
 feet lies the island of Ischia itself; to the W. the open sea; to 
 the E. the coast of Italy from Terracina , the promontory of Cir- 
 cello, and the Ponza islands to Capo Miseno, Vesuvius, and the 
 Capo Campanella, the extremity of the peninsula of Sorrento ; in 
 the foreground Procida, then the indentations of the Bay of Nap- 
 les, to the right the island of Capri; towards the N. the distant 
 snowy peaks of the Abruzzi. 
 
 The descent by the villages of Fontana , Moropano , and Casa - 
 bona , and lastly across a desolate lava-field to Ischia, takes 2*/ 4 hrs., 
 and the route by Panza to Forio about as long. Both the ascent 
 and descent afford charming views. 
 
 The following extracts from the writings of Nicolovius, an eminent 
 German author, and husband of Goethe’s niece, although dating from 1792, 
 are in most respects still applicable to Ischia. 
 
 ‘The climate of this charming island is genial, the sky rarely overcast, 
 the winters mild, the inhabitants bounteously supplied by nature with the 
 necessaries of life, and the sick with healing springs. Trees, shrubs, and 
 all kinds of plants thrive luxuriantly in the rich volcanic soil. Here and 
 there are observed groves of young oaks and chestnuts. Orange, pome- 
 granate, fig, and arbutus trees are the most common in the gardens ; the 
 myrtle and mastich-tree form the most frequent underwood in the unculti- 
 vated parts. The inhabitants are distinguished by a peculiar dialect, 
 costume, and figure. Fashion is unknown. The island cannot boast of a 
 single carriage or horse. The king himself on landing here must, like the 
 humblest inhabitant, have recourse to a donkey, unless he prefers to 
 walk .... Nowhere have we seen the tarantella, or national Neapolitan 
 dance, in greater perfection than here. It is usually performed by two 
 girls ; a third plays on the tambourine and sings. The woes of an absent 
 or unhappy lover are usually the theme of the song. In many of them 
 the Madonna and Cupinto (Cupid) are depicted as in perfect harmony with 
 each other. The dancers stand opposite to each other, grasp the corners 
 of their broad aprons, and begin their evolutions. They place their arms 
 alternately akimbo, while the disengaged hand grasping the apron raises 
 it high in the air, and occasionally draws it tightly across the knee. The 
 posture and the manipulation of the apron changes incessantly. At one 
 time the dancers flit past each other, at another with a slight curt- 
 sey and sweep of the foot give the sign to meet again, whereupon they 
 let go their aprons and career round in a circle, striking their castanets 
 with upraised hands , or imitating the sound with their fingers. The ca- 
 price of the dancer is capable of imparting an entirely different character 
 to the dance, which is generally intended to manifest the state of the feel- 
 ings. Fortunata, a relative of our host, performed the dance one evening, 
 at our request, with an uncouth Lombard youth, and the expression of the 
 dance was one of bitter derision.’ 
 
112 
 
 7. From Naples to Pompeii ( and Salerno). 
 
 Herculaneum. La Favorita. 
 
 Railway to Pompeii, 15 M., in 50 min.; fares 2 fr. 75, 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 10 c. 
 (return-tickets 4 fr. 50, 3 fr. 10, 1 fr. 85 c.). — High-road, see p. 115. 
 
 The railway from Naples to Pompeii, and thence to Salerno 
 and Baragiano (best views to the right), traverses the suburbs 
 and crosses the insignificant Sebeto , a stream which bounds Naples 
 on the E. The large red buildings on the right are the Granili , 
 which are used as barracks and (as their name imports) corn-maga- 
 zines. Beyond these we obtain a retrospect of the Castel S. Elmo. 
 This district is densely peopled ; the first village is the straggling 
 8. Giovanni a Teduccio. To the right the view becomes less cir- 
 cumscribed; and Naples, thePosilipo, beyond which rise the moun- 
 tains of Ischia, the island of Capri opposite , and the peninsula 
 of Sorrento are now visible. 
 
 5 M. Portici. — Pension du Vesuve, near the royal palace, 10 fr. per 
 day, thoroughly Italian. 
 
 Carriages. With one horse to the Piazza del Municipio at Naples 
 P /2 fr., or from one hour after sunset till midnight 2 J /4 fr. *, to the Rivi- 
 era di Chiaja 2 or 3 fr. ; to the Museo Nazionale 1 fr. 75, or 2 fr. 60 c.; 
 to Resina 50 or 75 c. — With two horses double these fares. 
 
 Portici , a town with 12,300 inhab., is also the station for Re- 
 sina (see below). It has a small harbour formed by a molo, from 
 the end of which a fine view is obtained of the bay. The high 
 road from Naples to Salerno traverses the town, and also leads 
 through the court of the palace built by Charles III. in 1738. — 
 Continuation of the Railway Journey , see p. 114. 
 
 Adjoining Portici , immediately beyond the palace , are the 
 houses of Resina , a town with 13,000 inhab., built upon the lava- 
 streams which cover the ancient Herculaneum. About 74 M. 
 beyond the palace, and 200 paces beyond the office of the Vesuvius 
 guides, immediately on this side of a viaduct crossing the Vicolo 
 di Mare, and to the right of the high road, is the entrance to the 
 excavations. — Distance thither from the Portici station 2/3 M. (guide 
 unnecessary). On leaving the station we follow the main street 
 to the right, and after 7 min. turn to the left (‘Linea Daziaria del 
 Comune di Resina’); in 5 min. more, near the palace of Portici 
 (on the left) we reach the above-mentioned high road which we 
 follow to the right. Over the entrance is the inscription, SScavi 
 di Ercolano’. Admission 2 fr., for which the visitor is provided 
 with a guide (no fees) ; on Sundays gratis. 
 
 Herculaneum , the Heracleia of the Greeks, derived its name from the 
 worship of Hercules peculiar to the place. Tradition attributed its 
 foundation to the hero himself, who during his wanderings in the West 
 visited this district. It was inhabited by Oscans, the aboriginal natives 
 of the country, by Etruscans, and by Samnites , before it became subject 
 to Rome. Owing to its salubrious situation on a height , between two 
 rivers, and being near the sea and the harbour of Resina, it became a 
 
HERCULANEUM. 
 
 7 4 Route. 113 
 
 favourite site for Roman villas (thus that of Servilia , sister of Cato of 
 Utica). The spot retained its name even after the total annihilation of 
 the town by the eruption of 79. A number of poor families then took up 
 their abode here, but in 472 their village was again destroyed by an eruption, 
 which altered the configuration of the whole coast. Subsequent eruptions 
 increased the depth of ashes and lava under which the old town was 
 buried to 40-100 ft. , that being the depth of the remains at the present 
 day below the surface of the soil. The discovery of Herculaneum took 
 place in 1719. Prince d^Elboeuf of Lorraine, whilst erecting a casino 
 at Portici, caused a well to be dug to supply it with water. This 
 led to the discovery, at a depth of about 90 ft., of the ancient thea- 
 tre, where a number of statues were found. Two of these, beautiful 
 portrait-statues of an old and a younger woman, are now in the mu- 
 seum at Dresden. During the next thirty years the excavations were 
 discontinued, but in 1737 Charles III., when engaged in erecting a palace at 
 Portici, recommenced operations, which were unfortunately directed by 
 unskilful hands and led to no satisfactory result; nor was it an easy task 
 to remove the huge masses of tuffstone and lava which covered the ruins, 
 especially as the buildings and streets of Portici and Resina were thereby 
 undermined. In 1750 a long, narrow passage was hewn through the rock, 
 leading to the theatre, which lies 69 ft. below the level of the street, and 
 this is the entrance at the present day. In 1755 the Accademia Ercolanese 
 was instituted for the investigation of the antiquities discovered, and 
 under their auspices was published the ‘Pitture d’Ercolano' 1 in 9 vols. 
 (Napoli, 1757), which caused immense sensation in the learned world. 
 The excavations during the next 50 years were conducted too superficially 
 and unsystematically, but progressed more favourably under the French 
 kings Joseph Napoleon (1806-8) and Joachim Murat (1808-15). Under theBour- 
 bons operations were suspended till 1828. Many of the most interesting 
 objects were excavated and again covered ; thus the theatre , part of 
 the forum with its colonnades, a basilica similar to that of Pompeii, 
 private houses, etc. Although the works were carried on without any defin- 
 ite plan, the yield was remarkably rich, and has furnished the museum 
 of Naples with a large proportion of its most valuable treasures, including 
 statues, busts, mural paintings, inscriptions, and utensils of all kinds. In 
 the chamber of one house an extensive papyrus library of 3000 rolls was 
 discovered. The excavations were recommenced with great ceremony in 
 1868, but as they are conducted on a limited scale no great results have 
 yet been obtained. In due time, however, a number of interesting dis- 
 coveries may confidently be expected. This is all the more likely as the 
 ancients appear soon to have given up their search for objects of value 
 here as being unprofitable; and while Pompeii was thoroughly explored 
 and ransacked, the treasures of Herculaneum have been preserved for the 
 benefit of posterity by the mantle of lava with which they are enveloped. 
 
 The attractions presented by Herculaneum are at present of a very 
 limited character, but an opportunity of seeing them should not be neglect- 
 ed. The visit may be paid on the way to Mt. Vesuvius, or, better still, 
 after the excursion to Pompeii. 
 
 From the entrance we are first conducted down a dark flight 
 of more than a hundred steps to the Theatre , of which an accurate 
 idea is not easily formed by the light of the flickering candle. 
 Owing to the buttresses built to support the rock above, the 
 place rather resembles a profoundly dark subterranean labyrinth. 
 It contains nineteen tiers of seats in six compartments ( cunei ): 
 between these, seven flights of steps ascended to a broad corridor, 
 above which was situated a colonnade with three more tiers 
 of seats. The number of spectators it could contain has been 
 variously computed at from 8000 to 30,000, the latter number 
 being certainly too high. The orchestra lies 85 ft. below the 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III, 7th Edition. Q 
 
1 1 4 Route 7. 
 
 TORRE DEL GRECO. 
 
 From Naples 
 
 level of the modern Resina, and is faintly lighted from above 
 through the shaft of the well which was the occasion of the dis- 
 covery. One inscription records that L. Annius Mammianus Rufus 
 erected the theatre, another that Numisius, son of Publius, was 
 the architect. On each side of the proscenium are pedestals for 
 honorary statues, with inscriptions. 
 
 A visit to the buildings brought to light by the Scavi Nuovi 
 of 1828 to 1837, and resumed in 1868, is of far higher interest. 
 We are conducted by the custodian down the Yicolo di Mare 
 (p. 112) for 4 min. ; the entrance is by an iron gate to the left. 
 A street, part of a large private house, and several houses used for 
 trading purposes have been excavated here. They lie 40 ft. below 
 the present surface, and the different layers of the superincumbent 
 lava are readily distinguished. The houses with their fittings and 
 decorations resemble those of Pompeii. The building-material is 
 a yellow tufa from Mte. Somma, of very soft consistency, which 
 accounts for the thickness of the walls. The garden of the principal 
 house, that of the Argus, is one of the most interesting objects. 
 It is enclosed by an arcade of twenty columns and six buttresses. 
 To the right of it is a triclinium with a painting (not now visible) 
 of Argus and Io, from which the house derives its name. Towards 
 the sea, the proximity of which at that period is indicated by the 
 rapid descent of the street, are situated magazines, three stories 
 in height, and well preserved. 
 
 About 2 / 3 M. beyond the entrance to the theatre, and also close 
 to the high road, is situated the royal chateau of La Favorita 
 (permesso, see p. 36; gratuity ^ fr.). The interior hardly merits 
 a visit, but the garden contains pleasant grounds extending as far 
 as the railway and down to the sea. A casino in the grounds 
 affords a fine view of the peninsula of Sorrento. A visit to the 
 Favorita is recommended after the ascent of Vesuvius, when the 
 vegetation and quiet of the gardens will be found very grateful. 
 
 Near Portici we enjoy a fine view from the railway of the Bay 
 of Naples with the Castello dell’ Ovo and Pizzofalcone, commanded 
 by Camaldoli ; in the background the Capo Miseno and the moun- 
 tains of Ischia. Farther on, to the left, Vesuvius and Resina. 
 The train skirts the coast and traverses the huge lava-stream of 
 1794, 38 ft. in thickness and 700 ft. yds in breadth. 
 
 71/2 M. Torre del Greco, a flourishing town with 25,000 in- 
 habitants , stands on the lava-stream of 1631 , which destroyed 
 two-thirds of the older town. The lava-streams of 1737 and 1794 
 also caused great damage. The earthquake of 1857, and partic- 
 ularly the eruption of 8th Dec. 1861, proved still more destructive. 
 On this last occasion eleven small openings were formed immediately 
 above the town, whence vast showers of ashes were precipitated, 
 while the shore in the vicinity was upheaved to the extent of 
 
to Pompeii. TORRE DELL* ANNUNZIATA. 7. Route. 1 1 5 
 
 3 ft., causing the ruin of many houses. Although the entire base 
 of Vesuvius as far as Torre dell’ Annunziata is covered with 
 traces of similar catastrophes, yet the inhabitants appear never 
 to be deterred from rebuilding their dwellings , a circumstance 
 which has given rise to the jesting saying of the Neapolitans, 
 1 Napoli fa i peccati e la Torre li pagaf 
 
 The line intersects Torre del Greco (to the right a small har- 
 bour), and then skirts the sea. To the left the monastery of Ca- 
 maldoli della Torre is visible, standing on an isolated volcanic peak 
 at the base of Vesuvius, and protected by its situation against 
 lava-streams. 
 
 After passing another stream of lava, the train reaches — 
 
 121/2 M. Torre dell* Annunziata, a prosperous town with 
 16,550 inhab. and a small harbour. A beautiful glimpse is dis- 
 closed here of the bay of Castellamare with the town, commanded 
 by Monte S. Angelo, the summit of which is crowned by the chapel 
 of S. Michele; beyond it Vico Equense, in the distance Sorrento. 
 Beyond the town the train skirts the shore, which is much frequent- 
 ed by fishermen. .The line to Castellamare then diverges to the 
 right, see p. 150. 
 
 The Pompeii train now proceeds inland , and on the left the 
 partially overgrown heaps of ashes thrown up by the excavations 
 soon become visible. 
 
 15 M. Pompeii, see p. 123. 
 
 Continuation of the line to Salerno , see R. 11. 
 
 High Road from Naples to Pompeii. 
 
 The High Road from Naples to Pompeii is also still mucli frequented, 
 and in cool weather may be recommended as a route as far as Portici 
 and Resina, as the railway-stations at Naples and Portici are inconveni- 
 ently situated. In the hot season the dust is extremely unpleasant. 
 (Carriages take 50 min. from the Piazza del Munieipio to Resina, see 
 pp. 24, 112; omnibus and tramway to Torre del Greco, see p. 25). 
 
 The road, which traverses the busy and bustling E. suburb of 
 Naples, leaves the town near the Castello del Carmine, skirts the 
 Marinella, and crosses the Sebeto by the Ponte della Maddalena , 
 passing the barracks of the Granili (p. 112) to the right. It then 
 leads along the coast, which, however, is so covered with villas and 
 other houses that the route is more like a long street than a country 
 road. Maccaroni hung out to dry is seen on every side. The first 
 village reached is S. Giovanni a Teduccio , which is adjoined on 
 the left by the small town of La Barra. We next reach Portici 
 and Resina (p. 112), which stretch along the road for a distance 
 of 2 M., the boundary between them being immediately beyond 
 the royal palace, through the court of which the road passes. At 
 the beginning of Resina on the left is the office for the Vesuvius 
 guides (p. 116). On the right, farther on, is the entrance to the 
 excavations of Herculaneum (p. 112), beyond which the road to 
 
116 Route 8. 
 
 MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 Vesuvius diverges to the left (see p. 122). We next pass the 
 Favorita on the right (p. 114). 
 
 As far as Torre del Greco (p. 114) the road runs between 
 houses and garden-walls , but farther on it commands an unim- 
 peded view. Torre delV Annunziata , see p. 115. The drive from 
 Naples to Pompeii takes 2 hrs. (carr. and pair 20 fr.). Pompeii, 
 see p. 123. 
 
 8. Mount Vesuvius. 
 
 Compare Map , p. 112. 
 
 The **Ascent of Mount Vesuvius may be made from Resina near Por- 
 tici, or from Pompeii. The excursion takes about 7 hrs. , but a whole 
 day should be allowed, in order to leave sufficient margin for rest, 
 refreshment, and the journey from Naples and back. After the ascent, 
 if time permits, a visit may be paid to Herculaneum or to the garden 
 of La Favorita. — The ascent from Pompeii is less costly than that from 
 Resina, and the traveller is less exposed to annoyance, but the ascent is 
 less interesting, somewhat longer, and altogether more fatiguing. 
 
 Disposition of Time, As the lights are most favourable and the at- 
 mosphere clearest in the morning, the traveller should leave Naples as 
 early as possible, unless he intends remaining on the mountain till 
 sunset to observe the working of the crater in the darkness. A single 
 traveller had better take an omnibus or a tram-car to the guides'' office 
 at Resina (one-horse carriage to this point from Naples 2 fr. *, railway see 
 p. 112, from the station to the office l j\ hr. ; comp, also p. 112), obtain 
 a horse and guide there, and ride to the foot of the cone (2 hrs.). The 
 traveller is not recommended to walk the whole way from Resina to the 
 top, as used formerly often to be done, owing to the fatigue of the last 
 part of the ascent. A carriage with one horse may sometimes be hired 
 from Portici to the Observatory for 10 fr. and a gratuity. — A party of 
 two or more persons will find it preferable to drive from Naples to the 
 Observatory (carriage and pair, there and back, for 2-3 persons 20-25 fr. , 
 with three horses 25-30 fr. ; the driver has to provide an extra horse 
 from Resina onwards without extra charge). Guides are always to be 
 met with at the Observatory (and horses also), but as they charge no less 
 than from Resina, it is better to engage one at the office in passing. (If 
 the guide mounts on the box of the carriage, 6 fr. ; otherwise 11 fr. ; see 
 below.) Tolerable walkers may dispense with a horse for the distance 
 between the Observatory and the foot of the cone ( 3 / 4 -l hr.). The steep 
 ascent of the cone itself (I-IV 4 hr.), which can only be performed on foot, 
 is extremely fatiguing owing to the looseness of the ashes. To many per- 
 sons the assistance of being drawn by a strap will not be unacceptable. 
 Ladies had better engage a ‘portantina 1 to carry them up. The charges 
 include the descent also, but as attempts at extortion are often made, 
 the descent as well as the ascent should be distinctly stipulated for. 
 
 About 3 / 4 hr. should be allowed for the halt on the summit. Wine 
 (2 fr. per bottle), eggs 0/2 fr. each), and bread are offered for sale here, 
 but the traveller had better bring some refreshment, for himself (oranges 
 or other fruit). 
 
 The descent of the cone is accomplished in 12-15 min.; to the Her- 
 mitage 3 /4 hr. ; thence to Resina li/ 4 -li/ 2 hr. 
 
 Expenses. The cost of the ascent for a single traveller amounts to 
 about 20 fr., but is considerably less for each of the members of a party. 
 The ascent should in no case be attempted without a guide. 
 
 From Resina. On 7th Aug., 1870, the following tariff, which may be 
 seen at the Officina delle Guide del Vesuvio at Resina, was issued fcV the 
 Municipio of Resina : — 
 
 For a mounted guide (comp. p. 117) 11 fr. 
 
 Horse attendant (facchino, unnecessary for most travellers) . 3 fr. 
 
MOUNT VESUVIUS. 8. Route. 117 
 
 Horse or mule (both generally good) 5 fr. 
 
 Donkey (rather slower) 4 fr. 
 
 ‘Portantina’ (chaise-a-porteurs) with 8 bearers from Resina to 
 
 the crater 60 fr. 
 
 Portantina from the Hermitage to the crater 40 fr. 
 
 Portantina from the foot of the cone to the top 30 fr. 
 
 ‘Aiuto’ (assistance with a strap in ascending the cone) ... 3 fr. 
 
 Holding horse during the ascent of the cone 2 fr. 
 
 Torches (for the descent after sunset) 2 fr. 
 
 (From Pompeii : — Mounted guide 10, horse 5, holding horse 2, portantina 
 from the foot of the cone about 25 fr.) 
 
 A stout stick , which is indispensable for walkers , may be hired at 
 the office for 25 c. 
 
 Payment for the whole of the above items, both for going and return- 
 ing, is made at the end of the excursion, either at the office, or to the 
 guide himself. In every case, however, an additional gratuity is expected : 
 guide D/2-3 fr. according to the number of the party ; horse-holder a few 
 soldi; strap-assistant l /i-l fr. ; chair-bearers 2-3 fr. Numerous other attacks 
 on the traveller’s purse are of course made en route , but should be si- 
 lently disregarded. 
 
 Strictly speaking the charge for the guide is 6 fr., the additional 5 fr. 
 being the charge for mounting him. The Municipio of Resina has coun- 
 tenanced this extortion by altogether omitting from the tariff the charge 
 for an unmounted guide. Those who drive and take the guide on the 
 box from Resina to the Observatory of course pay him no more than 6 fr. 
 and his gratuity. Some of the guides are fond of assuming a superior 
 and patronising air towards their employers, but those who are guilty of 
 such impertinence soon come to their senses when treated with perfect 
 indifference. 
 
 [The Wire Rope Railway to the top of Vesuvius, constructed by 
 the engineer Olivieri , and finished in spring, 1880, will cause a thorough 
 revolution in the mode of ascending the famous crater. The road ending 
 at the Observatory has been prolonged to the foot of the cone, where the 
 railway begins. The railway company will probably also make arrange- 
 ments for bringing travellers from the foot of the hill to the Station 
 (Cafe-Restaurant), which lies 2600 ft. above the sea. The length of the 
 line is 985 yds., and the upper end is 1300 ft. higher than the lower. 
 The gradient varies from 43 : 100 to 63 : 100. The carriages contain twelve 
 persons each, and in case of any accident can be brought to an immediate 
 standstill by powerful brakes. The ascent occupies 7 minutes. The end 
 of the line is about 100 yds. below the mouth of the crater.] 
 
 Railway to Portici , see p. 112: 13-14 trains daily (fares 95, 65, 
 40 c.). Guides proffer their services as soon as we arrive; but we dis- 
 regard their representations, follow the road to the right, turn to the left 
 after 7 min., and in 6 min. reach the Portici and Resina high road, on 
 which we soon come to the guides’ office (comp. p. 112). 
 
 High Road to Resina, see p. 115. Cabs, see pp. 24, 112. Omnibus 
 and Tramway, see p. 25. 
 
 Mount Vesuvius, sometimes called Vesevus by ancient poets 
 (e. g. by Lucretius and Virgil), rises in isolated majesty from the 
 Campanian plain, near the sea. The height varies, according to 
 the different effects of the eruptions , from 3900 to 4300 ft. ; 
 in 1845 the height was 3900 ft., and in 1868 it had increased 
 to 4255 ft. ; it was somewhat diminished by the eruption of 1872, 
 but is now steadily increasing. The N.E. side of the mountain is 
 named Monte Somma , of which the highest peak is the Punta del 
 Nasone (3642 ft.). A deep sickle-shaped valley, the Atrio del Ca - 
 vallo , separates Somma from Vesuvius proper, which consists of a 
 cone of ashes with the crater in the centre, the ‘Forge of Vulcan’. 
 
118 Route 8. 
 
 MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 Eruptions. 
 
 The summit is also liable to constant change after eruptions, having 
 sometimes a single crater with an opening in the middle, and 
 sometimes two or three craters adjacent to each other. The moun- 
 tain rises from the sea at an angle of 10°, while the cone itself 
 has a gradient of 30-35°. Monte Somma descends almost perpen- 
 dicularly to the Atrio del Cavallo , but slopes very gradually 
 down to the plain (3°). 
 
 Vesuvius in Ancient Times. Vesuvius forms the S. E. ex- 
 tremity, and has for the last three centuries been the only active 
 crater, of a highly volcanic district, which includes Ischia, Procida, 
 the Solfatara , and the Monte Nuovo. The case was reversed in 
 ancient times , as we are informed by the geographer Strabo 
 (Bk. v., chap. 4), who lived in the time of Augustus: ‘Mount 
 Vesuvius is covered with beautiful meadows, with the exception 
 of the summit. The latter is indeed for the most part level, but 
 quite sterile ; for it has an appearance like ashes , and shows 
 rugged rocks of sooty consistency and colour, as if they had 
 been consumed by fire. One might conclude from this that the 
 mountain had once burned, and possessed fiery abysses, and had 
 become extinguished when the material was spent. And just 
 from this cause its fertility may arise , as in the case of Catania 
 the eruption of ashes from JEtna renders it so productive of 
 wine 1 . About fifty years later, in the time of Nero, A. D. 63, 
 the volcanic nature of the mountain manifested itself by a fearful 
 earthquake , which destroyed a great part of the prosperous en- 
 virons, and seriously damaged Herculaneum and Pompeii. This was 
 repeated at Naples in 64, and again at intervals till the reign 
 of Titus, when, on 24th Aug. 79, the first (recorded) eruption 
 took place with appalling fury, and devastated the country far 
 and wide , covering it with showers of ashes and vast streams 
 of lava. On that occasion, it would appear, the peak now call- 
 ed Vesuvius was formed. Previously it had been a rounded 
 crater; the S. side, where Vesuvius now rises, having been the 
 lowest. The crater-like form of M. Somma is still distinctly re- 
 cognisable, although somewhat concealed by the more recent de- 
 posits of ashes. It was on that eventful day that Pompeii, Her- 
 culaneum, Stabhe, and other villages of this smiling district 
 were overwhelmed. The naturalist Pliny, then in command of a 
 section of the fleet stationed at Misenum, also perished on 
 this occasion. He had ventured too near the scene of desolation, 
 both as an observer and for the purpose of rendering aid to 
 the distressed, when he was suffocated near Castellamare by 
 the ashes and exhalations. His nephew, the younger Pliny, in 
 two letters (Ep. vi. 16, 20) to his friend the historian Tacitus, 
 gives a graphic description of this fearful phenomenon. He 
 mentions the premonitory earthquakes, day turned into night, 
 the extraordinary agitation of the sea, the dense clouds over- 
 
Eruptions . 
 
 MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 8. Route. 1 1 9 
 
 hanging land and sea, and riven by incessant flashes of light- 
 ning, the emission of fire and ashes, the descent of streams of 
 lava, and the universal terror of men, who believed the end of 
 the world had arrived. A similar description is given of an erup- 
 tion in the reign of Alex. Severus , A.D. 222, by Dio Cassius 
 (lxvi. 23), who describes how the clouds which hovered over the 
 mountain assumed the form of awful colossal figures. Herculaneum 
 and Pompeii were thus lost to the world for seventeen centuries. 
 The eruptions of Vesuvius have been repeated at intervals with 
 varying violence, down to the present day. The next took place 
 in 203, under Septimius Severus , and another in 472, sending 
 its showers of ashes as far as Constantinople. 
 
 Vesuvius in Modern Times. Down to the year 1500 nine 
 eruptions are recorded , and from that date to the present time 
 fifty. The mountain has been known to be quiescent for centuries 
 in succession, while at other periods its activity has been al- 
 most uninterrupted, e. g. from 1717 to 1737. From 1500 to 
 1631 Vesuvius was quiescent, while in 1538 the Monte Nuovo 
 was upheaved near Pozzuoli, and .Etna was labouring without 
 intermission. During that period Vesuvius was entirely covered 
 with wood and bushes, like the deer park of Astro ni at the 
 present day, and cattle grazed peacefully within the crater. After 
 this lull, on 16th Dec. 1631, came a most terrific eruption, the 
 first of which we possess detailed accounts. A huge cloud of 
 smoke and ashes rising in a conical form , cast a profound 
 gloom over Naples in the middle of the day, and extended 
 with incredible rapidity over the southern portion of Italy , as 
 far as Tarentum. Heavy stones were thrown to a distance of 
 15 M. (one which fell at the village of Somma being 25 tons 
 in weight) , while the earth was convulsed by violent earth- 
 quakes , and seven streams of lava poured from the summit, 
 overwhelming Bosco, Torre dell’ Annunziata, Torre del Greco, 
 Resina, and Portici. No fewer than 3000 persons perished on 
 that occasion. The following year an eruption of .Etna also 
 took place, although that mountain is usually quiescent when 
 Vesuvius is in an active state. An eruption in 1707 was of a 
 very alarming nature, lasting from May to August, and covering 
 Naples with dense showers of ashes, to the terror of the cit- 
 izens. The eruptions of 1737, 1760, and 1767 emitted consider- 
 able quantities of lava and scorise, which in 1767 descended on 
 Portici, and even reached Naples. One of the most stupendous 
 of these phenomena took place in Aug. 1779, when a vast 
 number of red-hot stones were hurled to a height of 2000 ft., 
 some of them exceeding 100 lbs. in weight, spreading terror 
 among the inhabitants far and wide. The lava eruption of 1794 
 was even more fatal in its effects 5 the streams precipitated 
 themselves into the sea by Torre del Greco, heating the water 
 
1 20 Route 8. 
 
 MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 Volcanic 
 
 for a considerable distance ; upwards of 400 lives were lost, 
 and the ashes were carried as far as Chieti and Taranto. Erup- 
 tions during the present century took place in 1804, 1805, 
 1822, Feb. 1850, and May 1855; in June 1858 the upper 
 crater sank about 195 ft. below its former elevation; and, on 8th 
 Dec. 1861, an outbreak remarkable for its violence, and inter- 
 esting from the fact that it was witnessed by Humboldt and 
 other men of science , devastated Torre del Greco. After this 
 the mountain remained quiescent until 1865. In November of 
 that year the lava began to overflow , but at length in November, 
 1868 , it forced a passage for itself through a fissure on the side of 
 the cone, after which no change took place till 1871. 
 
 The most recent period of great activity began in January 
 1871, when the mountain showed renewed symptoms of internal 
 disturbance by the emission of a stream of lava through a fissure 
 on the N.E. side. This was followed by another on the W. side 
 about the end of October, and early in 1872 these phenomena gra- 
 dually increased in violence, until at length they culminated in 
 the great eruption of 24th-30th April of that year. During these 
 days the lava burst forth on every side — on the N.E., S.W., and 
 more particularly at the Atrio del Cavallo (p. 117), from which a 
 huge stream issued with such suddenness on 26th April as to 
 overtake and destroy 20 persons out of a crowd of spectators who 
 were watching the spectacle, while others were injured by the 
 stones thrown from the summit. The torrent descended to Massa 
 and S. Sebastiano , and passed between these villages, which it 
 partially destroyed , in a stream upwards of 1000 yds. wide and 
 20 ft. deep. This overflow ran to a distance of 3 M. in 12 hours. 
 At the same time, amidst terrific thundering, the crater poured 
 forth huge volumes of smoke mingled with red-hot stones and 
 lava to a height of 4000 ft., whilst clouds of ashes, rising to double 
 that height, were carried by the wind as far as Cosenza, a distance 
 of 140 M. The lava emitted during this eruption covers an area of 
 2 sq. M., and averages 13 ft. in depth. The damage was estimated 
 at upwards of 3 million fr. A visit to S. Sebastiano is admirably 
 calculated to convey to the traveller an idea of the effects of this 
 stupendous convulsion of nature. (One-horse carr. thither from 
 Naples 4-5 fr., from Portici 3 fr.) — From this eruption till the 
 end of 1875 the mountain remained almost entirely quiescent, but 
 since then it has been giving premonitions of a new period of ac- 
 tivity. The crater of 1872 became gradually filled with masses of 
 lava, which at the end of 1878 were precipitated into the Atrio 
 del Cavallo. Eruptions of lava also frequently took place in 1879, 
 particularly towards the close of the year, often presenting a mag- 
 nificent spectacle when viewed from Naples at night. 
 
 Volcanic Phenomena. Notwithstanding the long series of 
 works op the subject which hsi,ve appeared sipce 1631 ? the 
 
Phenomena. 
 
 MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 8. Route. 121 
 
 cause of these phenomena is still to some extent a matter of 
 mere conjecture. It is highly probable that they are intimately 
 connected with the water of the sea, near which all the prin- 
 cipal volcanoes are situated. There is reason to believe that the 
 enormous clouds of steam generated during eruptions are due to 
 some temporary communication of the water with the burning 
 liquids of the interior of the earth, and that the premonitory 
 earthquakes are occasioned by the vapours and gases as they expand 
 and endeavour to find an outlet. The red-hot fluids expelled from 
 the volcano by means of these vapours are called lava. When, 
 however, they are broken by the vapours into fragments, the 
 larger of these are known as lapilli (rapilli) or scoriae, whilst the 
 minute portions form volcanic sand or ashes. When freed from the 
 pressure of the lava, the vapours rise to a height of 10,000 ft., 
 resembling a pine in form , as Pliny has aptly described it, car- 
 rying dense masses of rapilli and ashes along with them ; they 
 are then condensed in the air, and in descending give rise to 
 those formidable streams of mud (lave d’acqua) which proved so 
 destructive to Herculaneum. Vesuvius has of late been active in 
 the manner described, although to a very limited extent, ejecting 
 vapours and stones with a roar resembling that of distant artillery; 
 but the effects of this action have been confined to the formation 
 of the cone in the crater. More serious eruptions are accompanied 
 by loud subterranean noises, earthquakes, and flashes of lightning 
 and peals of thunder, owing to the electricity produced by the 
 unwonted pressure of the air. The temperature of the lava as it 
 descends occasionally exceeds 2000° Fahr. The volume of the 
 streams, as well as their velocity, depends on a variety of external 
 circumstances. The surface of the lava ultimately becomes disinte- 
 grated into black sand. The smoke which ascends from the 
 crater is more or less dark in colour, according to the quantity 
 of ashes mingled with it. The appearance of lire at night is not 
 flame, but the reflection of the molten lava in the interior of 
 the crater on the rising clouds of vapour and ashes. 
 
 Of the Minerals ejected by the volcano, most of which are 
 found in the older lava of M. Somma, as well as in that ejected 
 during later eruptions, about 40 species, according to the investi- 
 gations of Professor Scacchi of Naples, are at present known. In 
 the lava stream of 1855 the remarkable cotunnite, a chloride of 
 lead, was detected in great abundance. Most of these minerals 
 are sold by the guides at Resina ; a small box may be purchased 
 for i/ 2 -l fr. 
 
 The ** Ascent of Vesuvius is unquestionably an excursion 
 of extreme interest, though not unattended with fatigue, and 
 it should not be undertaken in rainy or stormy weather. When 
 the mountain is covered with snow in winter the difficulty of 
 the ascent is of course greater. 
 
1 22 Route 8. 
 
 MOUNT VESUVIUS. 
 
 From Resina. The road to Vesuvius diverges to the left 
 from the high road immediately beyond the entrance to the 
 excavations of Herculaneum (comp. p. 115; riders ascend by a 
 side-lane immediately from the guides’ office). Near the N. end 
 of the town it passes a small piazza with the church of S. Maria 
 a Pugliano on the right, whence it ascends the slopes of Ve- 
 suvius to the Observatory. The luxuriant vineyards here, which 
 are interspersed with gardens and cottages, presenting a picture 
 of teeming fertility, yield the famous ‘Lachrimse Christi’ wine, 
 which is generally strong and heavy, and never of a very re- 
 fined quality. The wine is offered for sale at nearly every cottage, 
 but had better not be partaken of before the ascent (usual price 
 1 fr. per bottle). Higher up, beyond the garden-walls, the beau- 
 tiful view is gradually disclosed. In about 3 / 4 hr. we 'reach 
 the huge dark lava-stream of 1872 , which we can trace down 
 to S. Sebastiano and Massa di Somma (p. 120), and which the 
 windings of the road cross several times. In 40 min. more we 
 reach the so-called Hermitage , a tavern where guides, horses, 
 and mules are to be found. Carriages wait here till the travellers 
 return from the summit (Lachrimse Christi 2 fr. ; good Vesuvius 
 wine at 1 fr. per bottle may be obtained at a peasant’s house 
 a little lower down, where there is a seat commanding a view). 
 
 Immediately above the Hermitage , on the same shoulder of 
 the hill which divides the lava-streams descending from the 
 crater into two branches , is situated the Meteorological Obser- 
 vatory, 2218 ft. above the level of the sea, and 1965 ft. above 
 Resina. It contains , in addition to the usual instruments , a 
 ‘sismograph’, or apparatus for recording the phenomena of earth- 
 quakes. The first director of the observatory was the celebrated 
 Melloni (d. 1854). The present director Palmieri has published an 
 interesting account of the eruption of 1872. A slab has been 
 placed at the entrance of the building in memory of the tra- 
 vellers who perished in the Atrio del Cavallo in 1872 (p. 120; 
 on which occasion Sign. Palmieri remained at his post in the 
 Observatory). Beyond the building is a guard-house of Cara- 
 binieri, whose duty is to watch over the public safety. 
 
 The new. road constructed by the Wire-rope Railway Company 
 above the Observatory traverses the stream of lava formed by the 
 eruption of 1872, In 50-60 min. we reach the foot of the cone 
 (720 ft. above the Observatory), where in fine weather the traveller 
 is immediately beset by an eager troop of portantina-bearers, 
 horse-holders, and men with straps, etc. (tariff, see p. 117). The 
 railway will, however, alter all this. 
 
 The ascent of the precipitous cone , consisting of slag and 
 loose ashes, which is 1500 ft. higher , and rises at an angle of 
 30-35°, has been extremely fatiguing since the eruption of 1872. 
 If the traveller has not accepted the ‘aiuto’ of the strap, he is 
 
POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 123 
 
 followed for a considerable way up by a number of would-be 
 assistants , who only return when satisfied that their services 
 are not required. Halfway up there is a resting-place. The as- 
 cent takes 1-1 V 4 hr. The Crater , which changes its form after 
 every great eruption , presents a most striking appearance. At 
 present the cone in the crater is higher than the rim, and several 
 lateral openings have been formed for the escape of the lava. 
 
 Under ordinary circumstances there is no danger unless one approach- 
 es the shelving brink incautiously, or exposes oneself to the fumes of sul- 
 phur and showers of stones. Thus in 1854 a young German, imprudently 
 approaching the aperture of the active cone, lost his footing, fell in, and 
 was killed by the fall. As the mountain was quiescent at the time, his 
 body was recovered. — The guides are in the habit of making impres- 
 sions on the hot lava with copper coins , roasting eggs , and inviting the 
 traveller to make similar experiments. The only risk incurred in doing 
 so is that of damaging the soles of one’s boots. 
 
 From Pompeii the ascent takes about the same time as from 
 Resina , but there is no carriage-road. The route leads by 
 ( 1/2 hr.) Bosco tre Case , and ascends thence through vineyards. 
 The view gradually becomes freer. We first reach the lava of 1822, 
 and then, where the ascent becomes steeper, those of 1848 and 
 1868. Riders usually reach the base of the last cone in IT /2 hr. 
 
 The ascent is most interesting when the mountain ‘works’, 
 or ejects scoriae and ashes, a condition indicated by smoke during 
 the day and a reflection of fire at night, which may be observed 
 from Naples. Even if its state is that of perfect repose, which is 
 not often the case, the fatigue of the ascent is repaid by the im- 
 posing appearance of the crater and the magnificent ^Panorama 
 commanded by the summit, extending as far as the Ponza Islands 
 and Mte. Circello, and most beautiful about sunrise or sunset. 
 
 The Monte Somma (3642 ft.) also affords a fine view, and 
 is interesting to geologists and botanists. The ascent may be 
 made from Massa or from Somma. 
 
 9. Pompeii. 
 
 Railway to Pompeii , see R. 7. — (The distance to Pompeii from 
 Torre Annunziata, the station before it, is only l 3 /4 M., so that the tra- 
 veller may find it convenient to take one of the Castellamare trains to that 
 station ; the high road thence to Pompeii is apt to be very dusty, carr. 
 I-IV 2 fr.) — From the Pompeii Station a walk of about 200 paces in a straight 
 direction brings us to the Hotel Diomede (p. 124) , situated close to the 
 Entrance. We ascend a flight of steps, immediately on the right of the 
 hotel, to the ticket-office. We are then provided with a guide at the 
 turn-style, and soon reach the Porta Marina , where our description begins 
 (see p. 130). 
 
 High Road to Pompeii, very dusty in summer, like all the roads 
 near Naples. Carriage with one horse 10 , with two horses 20 fr. and 
 gratuity; drive of 2hrs. See p. 115. 
 
 Duration of Stay. The time which the traveller devotes to the 
 ruins must depend on his own inclination. A superficial inspection may 
 be accomplished in 4-5 hrs. ; but in order to summon up from these mutilated 
 walls a tolerably accurate picture of ancient life , frequent and prolonged 
 
124 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 Hotels . 
 
 visits and patient observation are indispensable. The enthusiasm called 
 forth by the discovery of Pompeii and the fascination attaching to the 
 name are calculated to raise the expectations of the non-archseologist to too 
 high a pitch. The remains are simply the bare ruins of a town destroyed 
 by fire, which have been extricated from the rubbish accumulated during 
 seventeen centuries. 
 
 Admission on Sundays gratis, on other days 2 fr. (If the ruins be 
 quitted and re-entered, the entrance-money is exacted a second time ; 
 tickets must be shown at the Amphitheatre and elsewhere.) At the en- 
 trance visitors are provided with a guide (except on Sundays , when one 
 cannot even be had by payment of a fee), who is bound to accompany 
 them and pilot them through the ruins during any number of hours be- 
 tween sunrise and sunset. These guides are about 60 in number, and each 
 is provided with a badge (numbered according to the seniority of the 
 wearers , No. 1 being the oldest). One of those who speak French 
 or a little English will be assigned to the traveller on application. They 
 are strictly forbidden to accept any gratuity, but the offer of a cigar or 
 other refreshment will ensure their civility. The guide-books, drawings, 
 and photographs which they offer for sale are generally of an inferior de- 
 scription and should at once be declined. Complaints made to the in- 
 spectors (soprastanti), or better still to the director Ruggiero , are sure to 
 receive attention. The discipline and order maintained by the latter are 
 deserving of the highest commendation. Permission to draw, take mea- 
 surements, etc. , is obtained at the Segreteria of the Museum at Naples 
 (comp. p. 60), where the applicant must show his passport. Artists or 
 students who desire to make prolonged studies may, on application at the 
 office and production of their passports, obtain a free ticket of admission 
 available for a fortnight, which they are most liberally permitted to renew 
 as often as they desire. Permission to visit the ruins by moonlight is 
 only accorded to persons specially introduced to the director. 
 
 Before visiting Pompeii the traveller should acquire some previous 
 acquaintance with the place from books and plans, f The more familiar 
 the objects are to him, the greater will be his enjoyment. Implicit confi- 
 dence cannot be placed in the guides for anything beyond mere technical 
 explanations. Those who visit the ruins once only should avoid occupying 
 much of their time with the minutiae, as the impression produced by the 
 whole is thereby sacrificed, or at least diminished. On account of the phy- 
 sically and mentally fatiguing nature of the expedition, the stay should not 
 be extended much beyond 3 hrs. In summer the streets of Pompeii are 
 often insufferably hot ; the evening is therefore the most enjoyable time for 
 the visit, when the lights and shades on the surrounding mountains and the 
 illumination of the ruins by the declining sun invest the place with magic 
 fascination. The traveller should, if possible, contrive to visit it at least 
 twice, once with and once (on a Sunday) without a guide. 
 
 Hotels. At the entrance to Pompeii , opposite the railway-station, 
 Hotel Diomede (tolerable, colazione 3V2, pranzo 4 fr., and 25 c. for atten- 
 dance). About 5 min. walk farther, on the right, opposite the Porta di 
 Stabia, Hotel & Restaurant Pompeii, R. 2 l /-2, colazione 2 l /i, D. 3*/2, pens, 
 for artists 5 fr. A little farther on , near the Amphitheatre, "Hotel du 
 Soleil, B. 2, D. 3, pension 4^2 fr., chiefly frequented by artists; the land- 
 lord may be recommended as a guide for Vesuvius and other excursions 
 in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Pompeii was once a prosperous provincial town, with a po- 
 pulation of 20-30,000 souls. The original Oscan inhabitants had 
 at the close of the republic become completely Romanised, and 
 after the earthquake of A.D. 63 the town was re -erected in 
 
 t A work recommended to the traveller’s notice is Professor Overbeck's 
 Pompeii , which contains a plan, 26 coloured views, and 315 woodcuts 
 (3rd ed. Leipzig, 1875; 20 marks). A more recent work is Professor Nissen's 
 Pompejanische jstudien (Leipzig, 1877 ; 25 marks), 
 
History, 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 125 
 
 the new Roman style composed of Greek and Italian elements. 
 Pompeii , therefore , represents one definite epoch of antiquity 
 only, hut it is the most important and almost the only source 
 of our acquaintance with ancient domestic life. The investigation 
 of the various phases of this life , even in its minuter details, 
 forms a pursuit of inexhaustible interest. 
 
 Pompeii is mentioned in history for the first time in B.C. 310 •, but 
 its monuments, such as the wall of the town and the so-called Greek 
 Temple, clearly prove it to be of much greater antiquity. Founded by the 
 Oscans, it soon became imbued with the elements of Greek civilisation, like 
 the other towns of this extensive tribe. Being situated near the sea on 
 an ancient volcanic eminence, it carried on extensive commerce with the 
 inland Campanian towns by means of the navigable river Sarnus, and 
 enjoyed an uninterrupted, though not brilliant share of prosperity. (The 
 sea and river were separated from the town by subsequent convulsions of 
 nature.) After the Samnite wars, in which Pompeii had also participated, 
 the town became subject to Rome. It united with the other Italians in 
 the Social War. The rebels were defeated in the vicinity of Pompeii by 
 Sulla, who attacked the town itself, but unsuccessfully. After the termi- 
 nation of the war, however, B.C. 82, a colony of Roman soldiers was sent 
 thither, and the inhabitants were compelled to cede to it one-third of their 
 arable land. In course of time Pompeii became thoroughly Romanised, 
 and was a favourite retreat of Romans of the wealthier classes, who ( e.g . 
 Cicero) purchased estates in the vicinity. It was also favoured by the em- 
 perors. Tacitus records a serious conflict which took place in the amphi- 
 theatre, A. D. 59, between the Pompeians and the neighbouring Nucerines, 
 in consequence of which the former were prohibited from performing 
 theatrical pieces for a period of ten years. A few years later, A.D. 63, a 
 fearful earthquake occurred, evidencing the re awakened activity of Ve- 
 suvius, which had been quiescent for centuries. A great part of Pompeii, 
 its temples, colonnades, theatres, and private dwellings were destroyed on 
 that occasion. This disaster afforded the inhabitants an opportunity of 
 re-erecting their town in a style more conformable to the improved 
 architecture of imperial Rome , and it accounts for the comparatively 
 modern and often unfinished character of the buildings. The new town 
 had not long been completed, although it had been restored in a re- 
 markably short period with the aid afforded by private liberality, when 
 it was overtaken by the final catastrophe of 24th Aug. 79. The first 
 premonitory symptom was a dense shower of ashes, a stratum of which 
 covered the town to a depth of about 3 ft. , allowing the inhabitants 
 time to escape. Many of them, however, returned, some doubtless to rescue 
 their valuables, others paralysed with fear and uncertain what course to 
 pursue. In the years 1861-72 were found eighty -seven human skeletons, 
 and those of three dogs and seven horses. The whole number of those 
 who perished is estimated at 2000. The ashes were followed by a shower of 
 red hot rapilli, or fragments of pumice-stone of all sizes, which covered the 
 town to a depth of 7-8 ft. , and was succeeded by fresh showers of ashes 
 and again by rapilli. The present superincumbent mass is about 20 ft. in 
 thickness. Part of this was formed by subsequent eruptions, but the town 
 had already been completely buried by the original catastrophe, and was 
 entirely lost to view, though its name was long preserved by a small 
 village which sprang up near the site. Extensive excavations , however, 
 had been made in ancient times. Immediately after the calamity the sur- 
 vivors doubtless recovered as many valuables from their buried homes as 
 they could $ and in subsequent centuries the ruins were repeatedly ran- 
 sacked for the marbles and precious stones used in the embellishment of 
 the temples and other buildings. We therefore now find the town in the 
 condition in which it was consigned to oblivion some fifteen centuries 
 ago as no longer containing anything of value. During the middle ages 
 Pompeii was entirely unknown. In 1592 the architect Fontana constructed 
 a subterranean water-conduit in order to supply Torre dell 1 Annunziata 
 
1 26 Route 9 . 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 History . 
 
 from the Sarno, actually intersecting the ruins, and to this day in use ; yet 
 no farther investigations were then attempted. In 1748 the discovery of 
 some statues and bronze utensils by a peasant attracted the attention of 
 Charles III., who caused excavations to be made. The amphitheatre, the- 
 atre, and other parts were then disinterred. The enthusiasm caused by the 
 discovery has been the frequent theme of poetical and other compositions 
 by Bulwer, Schiller, and other celebrated authors: 
 
 What wonder this ? — we ask the lymphid well , 
 
 0 Earth! of thee — and from thy solemn womb 
 What yield'' st thou ? — Is there life in the abyss — 
 
 Doth a new race beneath the lava dwell ? 
 
 Returns the Past , awakening from the tomb ? 
 
 The earth , with faithful watch , has hoarded all ! 
 
 Under the Bourbons the excavations were continued in a very unsatis- 
 factory manner. Statues and valuables alone were extricated, whilst the 
 ruins were either suffered to fall to decay or covered up again. To the 
 reign of Murat, however, we are indebted for the excavation of the Forum, 
 the town-walls, the Street of Tombs, and many private houses. The political 
 changes of 1860 have likewise exercised a beneficial effect. Under the able 
 superintendence of M. Fiorelli, instead of the former predatory operations, 
 a regular plan has been adopted, according to which the ruins are systema- 
 tically explored and carefully preserved, and highly satisfactory results thus 
 obtained. The movable objects found, as well as the more important 
 frescoes, have been removed to the Museum at Naples, — a very desirable 
 course , as is obvious from the injury caused by exposure to those left 
 behind. At Pompeii itself a museum and library have been instituted, a 
 dwelling-house erected for students supported by government, and a railway 
 constructed for the removal of the debris. The workmen employed in the 
 excavations average eighty in number, but several hundred are at times 
 engaged. If the works continue to progress at the same rate as at present, 
 the complete excavation of the town, according to FiorellFs calculations, 
 will occupy seventy years more, and will cost about 5 million francs. A 
 sum of 30-40,000 fr. is realised yearly from the money paid by visitors for 
 admission. 
 
 Before beginning our walk, we may make a few remarks on the 
 plan and architecture of the town. 
 
 Town Walls. The town is built in the form of an irregular 
 ellipse, extending from E. to W. The circumference of its walls 
 amounts to 2843 yds. There are eight gates, to which the 
 following names have been given : Porta di Ercolano , della 
 Marina , di Stabia , di Nocera , del Sarno , di Nola , di Capoa 1 and 
 del Vesuvio. In consequence of the prolonged peace, however, the 
 walls had entirely lost their importance. Towards the sea they 
 had been demolished, and outside the Gate of Herculaneum a 
 considerable, suburb had sprung up, called Pagus Augustus Felix , 
 after the settlement established by Augustus. 
 
 Plan of the Town. The excavated portion (about 275,000 
 sq. yds.) embraces about one-third only of the town, but prob- 
 ably the most important part, including the Forum with the con- 
 tiguous temples and public buildings , two theatres with large 
 colonnades, the amphitheatre, and a considerable number of private 
 dwellings of more or less ornate character. The principal streets 
 are : 1 . The Consular Street , or Via Domitiana , which , prolonged 
 by the Strada de * Sepolcri , or Street of Tombs , leads to the Porta 
 di Ercolano, and thence in several ramifications to the Forum ; 
 
Topography . 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 127 
 
 2. The Street of Mercury (named Street of the Forum as far as the 
 Temple of Fortuna), from the Forum to the N. extremity of the 
 town; 3. The street leading from the sea, past the Thermae and the 
 Temple of Fortuna, to the Porta di Nola (called successively the 
 Street of the Thermae , Fortuna , and NoUjl)\ 4. Strada dell Ab- 
 bondanza , leading apparently from the Forum to the Porta del 
 Sarno ; 5. Strada Stabiana , from the Porta di Stabia to the Porta 
 del Yesuvio. — According to the new Official Arrangements 
 the town is divided into nine ‘Regions’ ( Reg tones ) by the four 
 principal streets connecting the gates (Strada dell’ Abbondanza, 
 Str. della Fortuna, Str. Stabiana, and another, parallel to the last 
 but not yet excavated). Six of these quarters have been wholly or 
 partly excavated, viz . the YIth, Yllth, and YHIth to the W. of 
 the Str. Stabiana, and the 1st, Ilnd (amphitheatre), Yth, and IXth 
 to the E. of it. Each region is subdivided into Insulae , or blocks 
 of houses bounded by four streets, each provided with a number. 
 Each house is also numbered. Thus ‘Ins. YI. 8, No. 5’ means the 
 house No. 5 in the eighth insula of the sixth region. Lastly, the 
 streets of each region are numbered (Via prima, secunda , etc.), 
 while the Str. Stabiana is entitled the ‘Cardo’ (line through the 
 centre from N. to S.), the Str. della Fortuna the ‘Decumanus 
 Major’ (major transverse line) , and the Str. dell’ Abbondanza the 
 ‘Decumanus Minor’ (minor transverse line). The older names of 
 the houses , by which many of them are known, were generally 
 chosen in a very arbitrary fashion ; the newer names are generally 
 taken from signet-rings or seals found in the interiors. 
 
 The streets, bordered by pavement, are straight and narrow, 
 not above 24 ft. in breadth, the narrower lanes 14 ft. only. They 
 are admirably paved with large polygonal blocks of lava. At in- 
 tervals, especially at the corners, are placed high stepping-stones j 
 leading from one side of the pavement to the other, intended for 
 the convenience of foot-passengers in rainy weather. The waggons 
 have left deep ruts in the causeways, which do not exceed 4^2 ft. 
 in width ; and the horses’ hoofs have made impressions on the 
 stepping-stones over which they were obliged to pass. At the 
 corners of the streets are public fountains, decorated with the head 
 of a god, a mask, or similar ornament. 
 
 In the streets are frequently seen notices painted in red let- 
 ters, referring generally to the election of the municipal authori- 
 ties, and recommending some particular individual as sedile or 
 duumvir. Trade-signs, like those of the present day, are very 
 rare. On the other hand an occasional ‘phallus’ is seen, for the 
 purpose of averting the evil eye; and one or two large snakes, 
 the emblems of the Lares, the gods of the hearth and of cross- 
 ways, are very common. Stuccoed walls are often covered with 
 graffitti , or roughly scratched drawings resembling those with which 
 our ‘Street Arabs’ still delight to decorate blank surfaces. 
 
128 Route 9 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 Architecture 
 
 Construction. The houses are slightly built of concrete 
 (small stones consolidated with cement) or brick, and sometimes, 
 particularly the corner pillars, of blocks of stone. The hasty 
 and patched character of the construction is accounted for by the 
 earthquake of 63. The numerous well-preserved staircases prove 
 that the houses must uniformly have possessed a second and per- 
 haps also a third story. These upper portions, consisting chiefly 
 of wood, have, with a single exception (p. 146), been destroyed 
 by the red-hot scoriae of the eruption. 
 
 Shops. In traversing the streets of Pompeii, we soon ob- 
 serve a difference between the various houses, which were shops 
 (tabernae) or dwelling-houses according as their rooms are turned to 
 or from the street. The former belonged to the large dwelling-houses, 
 and were let to merchants and shopkeepers, in the same way as the 
 ground-floors of the palazzi in Naples are occupied by shops at 
 the present day. These shops were generally in no way connected 
 with the back part of the house, and presented their whole fron- 
 tage to the street, from which they could be separated by large 
 wooden doors. Many of the shop-tables, covered with marble, 
 and once fitted up with large earthen vessels for the sale of 
 wine, oil, etc., are still preserved. At the back of the shop 
 there was occasionally a second room, probably occupied by the 
 shopkeeper, who in other cases must have lived in the upper 
 part of the house, or in a different part of the town. The nu- 
 merousness of these shops affords proof of the importance of the 
 retail traffic at Pompeii. Where the street was not thus enli- 
 vened , it was flanked by bare walls , adorned here and there 
 with a painting. The absence of glass forms one of the chief 
 differences between an ancient and a modern dwelling. The 
 ancients therefore concentrated their domestic life in the interior 
 of their houses, which presented to the street a blank wall with 
 as few openings as possible , and these covered with an iron 
 grating. A distinct idea of this mode of building, so different 
 from that of the present day , and without parallel except in 
 some Oriental countries , is best obtained in the more recently 
 excavated and better preserved streets between the Forum and 
 the Stabian Street, and to the E. of the latter. 
 
 Plan of the Houses. The dwelling-houses of Pompeii vary 
 greatly in size, and have obviously been very differently fitted up, 
 in accordance with the nature of the situation, or the means and 
 taste of their owners. Their chief peculiarity is the internal court, 
 which provided the surrounding chambers with light, and was the 
 medium of communication between them. Most of the Pompei- 
 an houses of the wealthy middle class are entered from the 
 street by a narrow passage (vestibulum) leading to the court ( atri- 
 um which is surrounded by a covered passage, with the implu- 
 vium , or reservoir for rain-water, in the centre. The roof sloped 
 
of the Town. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 1 29 
 
 inwards and had an opening in the centre (compluvium) which 
 afforded light and air to the court and the adjoining rooms. 
 Beyond the atrium is a large apartment opening into it, called 
 the tablinum. This front portion of the house was devoted to 
 its intercourse with the external world; and it was here that 
 the patron received his clients and transacted business. The rest 
 of the house was destined solely for the use of the family. Its 
 centre also consisted of an open court, enclosed by columns, and 
 thence termed the peristylium , the middle of which was laid 
 
 House of Pansa { p. 136). 
 
 out as a garden. Sometimes, however, there is a flower-garden 
 ( xystus ), surrounded by columns, beyond the peristyle. At the back 
 of the peristyle are generally several business rooms, called ceci. 
 Around these principal apartments , in which the magnificence 
 of the house is concentrated, are situated the sleeping and eat- 
 ing-rooms, slaves’ rooms, kitchen, cellar, etc. The upper floor 
 was destined principally for the slaves. Most of the apartments 
 are very small, but the family worked and spent most of their 
 time in the light and airy courts. 
 
 The reconstruction of a complete house in its original form would 
 be most interesting and instructive, but has not yet been carried out. 
 (A good model is to be seen at the Museum of Naples, p. 74.) 
 
 Decoration. Marble is rarely met with in the public or 
 domestic architecture of Pompeii , the columns being invariably 
 constructed of tuff stone or bricks, cemented by mortar. The brick 
 walls and columns were then covered with stucco, which took the 
 place of marble, and afforded ample scope for decorative painting. 
 It is in fact hardly possible to imagine a gayer or more richly 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 9 
 
130 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 Porta Marina . 
 
 decorated town than Pompeii must have been. The lower halves of 
 the columns are generally red or yellow, the capitals tastefully 
 painted; the walls, too, where undecorated, are painted with bright, 
 and almost glaring colours , chiefly red and yellow , harmonising 
 well with the brilliancy of a southern sun. The centre of the walls 
 is generally occupied by a painting unconnected with the others. 
 The best of these were removed to the museum at Naples, before 
 they had suffered from exposure to the elements ; many, however, 
 of those left merit inspection. The scenes present a uniformly soft, 
 erotic character, corresponding to the peaceful and pleasure-seeking 
 taste of the age (comp. Introd., p. xxxviii). 
 
 We now proceed to describe the different streets and build- 
 ings , beginning with the Porta Marina , by which we enter the 
 town on arriving from the station (p. 123). We shall then proceed 
 (comp. Plan) to the Forum and first explore thence the streets in 
 the N.E. quarter of the town ■ — those of the Forum, of the 
 Thermse, of the Herculaneum Gate, and of the Tombs. Returning 
 to the Scuola Archeologica, we shall next traverse the Yicolo di 
 Mercurio to the Strada di Mercurio , then follow the Str. della 
 Fortuna to the recently excavated quarter near the point where it 
 intersects the Stabian street, and then proceed by the Stabian 
 street, crossing the Str. degli Augustali and the Strada dell’ Abbon- 
 danza, to the Forum Triangulare and the theatres. Our description 
 terminates with the Amphitheatre. The chief points of interest 
 are printed in heavier type. Those who are pressed for time had 
 better omit the Amphitheatre. 
 
 The Guides usually conduct visitors from the Forum to the E. into 
 the Strada dell 1 Abbondanza, and to the theatres and the Amphitheatre, 
 and then return through the street of the Augustales to the Fortuna 
 street, where they keep their stock of photographs and souvenirs. They 
 next show the street which is now in course of being excavated, running 
 towards the Vesuvius gate, and beyond it the Mercurius street; and they 
 end with the Herculaneum Gate and the Street of Tombs. Those who 
 desire to form a distinct idea of the topography and arrangements of the 
 town are recommended either to adopt the following plan, or to frame 
 one for themselves and name to the guide in order the places they desire 
 to see. Travellers who intend to dine or put up at the Hotel du Soleil 
 should visit the Amphitheatre last. 
 
 The above-mentioned Porta Marina is a vaulted passage under 
 ancient magazines, which have been built over in modern times. 
 The street here ascends rapidly, like all the other approaches to 
 the town, which lies on an eminence. The passage, 17^2 ft. in 
 width and 75y 2 ft. in length, has a path for foot-passengers on 
 the left. 
 
 On the right in this passage is the entrance to the *Museum, 
 which contains many interesting objects, though none of artistic 
 value, arranged in three rooms. 
 
 Among these are casts and models of doors, windows, shop-shutters, 
 and other objects in wood. 
 
 In glass cases are preserved casts of eight human corpses, and one 
 
Temple of Venus. POMPEII. 9. Route. 131 
 
 of the body of a dog. Although the soft parts of the bodies had decayed 
 in course of time, their forms frequently remained imprinted on the 
 ashes, which afterwards hardened. In 1863 Fiorelli made the ingenious ex- 
 periment of carefully removing the bones of a body thus imbedded, 
 and filling the cavity with plaster, and he has succeeded admirably in 
 preserving the figures and attitudes of the deceased after their death- 
 struggle. On the point of flight, many of them had divested themselves 
 of most of their clothing. Among the figures are a young girl with a ring 
 on her finger, two women, one tall and elderly, and the other younger; 
 a man lying on his face; and a man lying on his left side with remark- 
 ably well-preserved features. 
 
 There are also amphorae, vases, rain-spouts, etc., in terracotta; vessels 
 in bronze; carbonised articles of food like those at Naples (p. 74); 
 skulls, and skeletons of men and animals. 
 
 The Via Marina ascends hence in a straight direction to the 
 Forum, being bounded by a wall on the right, and by uninteresting 
 shops on the left. Behind these are a number of houses recently 
 excavated, but presenting little attraction. 
 
 On the right at the end of the Via Marina is a side-entrance to 
 the Basilica (PI. 64), an oblong edifice, 220 ft. long and 82 ft. 
 broad, with its facade towards the Forum. A passage round the 
 interior consists of twenty-eight brick columns with capitals of 
 tufa ; the space in the centre was probably roofed in. On the 
 walls are half-columns, all covered with stucco. At the end of 
 the building was the elevated tribune, or seat of the presiding 
 magistrate, which was probably approached by movable steps. In 
 front of it is a pedestal for a statue ; below are vaults (perhaps a 
 prison), reached by a staircase. In the year 79 the building must 
 obviously have been undergoing extensive alterations. 
 
 Also on the W. side of the Forum , to the left of the Via 
 Marina, is situated the so-called *Temple of Venus (PI. 63), 
 an edifice of very early origin, but restored after the earthquake 
 of 63. The temple is surrounded by a spacious, irregular quad- 
 rangle, 177 ft. long, on the S. side 103 ft. and on the N. side 
 109 ft. broad. As the side towards the Forum was not parallel 
 with it, the wall, in order to prevent the eye being offended by 
 this irregularity, was furnished in the interior with eight buttresses 
 at intervals, each projecting farther than the last. The portico is 
 borne by forty-eight columns, originally Ionic, which had been 
 converted by means of stucco into Corinthian ; but this coating 
 has now fallen off. The Temple itself rises in the centre of the 
 court, on a basement 65 ft. in length, 39 ft. in width, and 
 7V 2 ft. in height, and is approached by thirteen steps. Facing 
 these stands an Altar : with an inscription of the donors , the 
 quatuorviri of the town, and still bearing traces of its former 
 use for offerings of incense. To the right in the colonnade is a 
 statue of unknown import. On the left, opposite, in front of the 
 small altars, were placed several other statues (among which were 
 the Venus and Hermaphrodite found here). The temple itself 
 was surrounded by a Corinthian colonnade, and had a facade of six 
 
 9* 
 
132 Route 9, 
 
 POMPETT. 
 
 Forum. 
 
 columns. Within the vestibule was the shrine, where the figure 
 of the goddess stood on a lofty pedestal. A much mutilated statue 
 of Venus was found here. Fine view of M. Santangelo from this 
 point. — Behind the court of the temple are chambers for the 
 priestesses, decorated with paintings. 
 
 The *Forum (PI. 57, Foro Civile ) forms the central point 
 of the town (109 ft. above the sea-level). On the N. side, de- 
 tached , stands the temple of Jupiter (p. 133); the other sides 
 are enclosed by an arcade. The Area, or open space in the 
 centre, 515 ft. in length and 107 ft. in breadth, is paved with 
 large slabs. Six streets converge here, but the forum was pro- 
 tected against the trespass of riders or waggons by stone pillars 
 round the margins, and could even be entirely shut off by gates. 
 In the area are twenty-two bases for statues, erected in honour 
 of emperors and other illustrious men, five of which (four on the 
 W. side, one at the S.E. corner) still bear incriptions, dedicat- 
 ed to officials of high rank, the duumviri (similar to the consuls 
 of Rome) and quinquennales (censors) of the town. The exten- 
 sive basements on the S. side were destined for equestrian statues, 
 most of the pedestals never having been completed. The colon- 
 nade surrounding the Forum varies in breadth from 26 to 45 ft., 
 a number of the buildings which adjoin it having been erected 
 at a date prior to the construction of the Forum. Above the 
 lower columns of the Doric order rose a second series of the Ionic, 
 thus constituting an upper, covered passage, approached by steps, 
 several of which are still preserved. The whole was in an unfin- 
 ished condition at the time when the town was destroyed ; por- 
 tions of the frieze, consisting of limestone, placed round the 
 colonnade, are still in a rough state; on the S. and E. sides 
 are older columns of tuffstone. 
 
 To the right of the Basilica, on the S. side of the Forum, are 
 situated the Tribunals (PI. 66), three adjacent chambers, each 
 with a semicircular extremity, handsomely built of brick which 
 was once covered with marble. Their use is not distinctly ascer- 
 tained ; but they seem to have been minor courts of justice. 
 
 To the left of the tribunals diverges the Street of the Schools, 
 pursuing an E. direction as far as the Forum Triangulare (p. 147). 
 The excavated houses are again partially covered with rubbish, 
 and therefore devoid of interest. 
 
 On the E. side of the Forum, at the corner of the handsome 
 Strada dell’ Abbondanza (p. 144), is a square hall, erroneously 
 supposed to be a school. 
 
 On the opposite side of the street, Forum No. 1, is situated 
 the *Chalcidicum (PI. 62), erected by the priestess Eumachia , and 
 perhaps used as an exchange. On the frieze of the portico facing 
 the Forum, and still more fully over the entrance in the Str. 
 dell’ Abbondanza, may be read the following inscription : ‘ Eumachia 
 
Temple of Jupiter. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 133 
 
 Lucii filia sacerdos publica nomine suo et M. Numistri Frontonis 
 fill chalcidicum cryptam porticus , Concordiae Augustae Pietati sua 
 pecunia fecit eademque dedicavit The interior is separated from 
 the portico by a number of small chambers, which were used as 
 a kind of magazine , where a great number of marble slabs, 
 destined for the completion of the edifice, were found. In the 
 interior is an open court, 123 ft. in length and 62 ft. in width, 
 once surrounded by fifty-four columns of Parian marble , of which 
 three only are left, and these in a mutilated condition. This 
 colonnade ( chalcidicum ) is surrounded by a covered passage (crypta), 
 which afforded protection against the weather. At the back of 
 this, in a niche, stands the statue of Eumachia (a copy, the ori- 
 ginal being at Naples, p. 67), erected by the fullers (fullones) of 
 Pompeii. — On the external wall of the Chalcidicum is the copy 
 of an inscription found here, dedicated to Romulus. 
 
 We next reach No. 2, the so-called *Temple of Mercury 
 (PI. 61), 83 ft. in length and 53 ft. in breadth. A number of 
 excavated objects have been placed here : vases, spouts of fount- 
 ains, rain - gutters , capitals, stone - weights with iron handles, 
 mortars, earthenware, etc. To the left of the entrance are ves- 
 sels of lead, fragments of glass, bone articles, iron gratings, fetters, 
 tires of waggon-wheels; to the right earthenware and fragments 
 of marble. In the centre an *Altar in marble with reliefs : on the 
 front victims, on the sides the sacrificial utensils. The form of 
 this temple is very irregular. At the extremity of the area is the 
 small shrine with a pedestal for the statue of the god. 
 
 No. 3, adjacent, is the Curia (PI. 59), where, as is generally 
 believed, the town-council held their deliberations. It is a square 
 hall, 65 ft. long, 58 ft. broad, with hemicyclical termination 
 and several niches, but greatly damaged. 
 
 Opposite, on the N. side of the Forum and in the most con- 
 spicuous part of it, rises the *Temple of Jupiter (PI. 60), on a 
 basement 9^2 ft. in height. At the time of the eruption it was 
 in process of being restored. The Pronaos is approached by eigh- 
 teen steps, and has a facade of six columns with three on each 
 side. Apertures in the ground admit light to the underground 
 chambers, which were used as a magazine for building materials, 
 having originally been probably a treasury. The whole length 
 of the temple is 118 ft. Behind the Pronaos is the shrine, with 
 two series of Ionic columns, eight in each, arranged close to the 
 painted walls. At the back are three chambers. At the farther 
 end, to the left, a flight of steps ascends to the basement which 
 bore the statue of the god, which the visitor should not omit to 
 visit as it affords a fine *Panorama of Pompeii, M. Santangelo, 
 the palace of Quisisana, and the chain of the Apennines. 
 
 Passing along the W. side of the Forum, we observe, at the 
 end of the Temple of Venus, No. 31, a niche, in which, as 
 
134 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. Temple of Augustus. 
 
 an inscription found here informs us, the standard weights and 
 measures were kept. Then follows a flight of steps, which led 
 to the arcade, and formed an approach to the Temple of Venus. 
 Adjoining the latter is No. 29, the so-called Lesche , a hall ap- 
 parently for public purposes. Beyond this is No. 28, a public 
 latrina, and then No. 27, a building which from its narrow, 
 gloomy cells appears to have been a prison. Farther on, the Forum 
 is bounded by a wall. In front of it, adjoining the Temple of 
 Jupiter, is a Triumphal Arch. 
 
 At the E. end of the Forum, adjoining the Curia, stands 
 the so-called *Temple of Augustus (PI. 58), sometimes named 
 the Pantheon , an edifice whose object is involved in mystery. 
 In front of it are pedestals for statues; on the exterior, shops 
 possibly occupied by money-changers. The building is entered 
 by two doors (Nos. 7 and 8). The interior consists of a rectan- 
 gular court, 122 ft. in length and 80 ft. in width. The walls 
 are decorated with frescoes (those to the left of the entrance, 
 the best preserved , represent Argus and Io, Ulysses and Pene- 
 lope). The court was still unfinished when the catastrophe took 
 place ; it was destined to be enclosed by a colonnade, but the 
 limestone slabs of the pavement have been laid on the N. and W. 
 sides only, while on the other sides the enclosure is formed by 
 blocks of tufa. A dodecagon is formed in the centre by twelve 
 pedestals for statues. To the right are eleven chambers simply 
 painted red ; at the extremity is an exit into a back street. To 
 the left is one of the principal outlets to the Street of the Au- 
 gustales (named after this edifice). On the E. side, opposite us 
 as we enter the building, rises the shrine. On the principal pedes- 
 tal stood the statue of the emperor, in the side niches Livia and 
 Drusus (here replaced by copies). To the left of this shrine was 
 another with an altar, which perhaps was employed in the cele- 
 bration of the sacrificial banquets; the gallery by the lateral 
 wall is believed to have been an orchestra. To the right a larger 
 apartment, containing stands of masonry with a slight inclination, 
 and furnished with gutters below to early off blood or water, 
 is supposed to have been a kitchen. The whole establishment was 
 probably used by the college of Augustales. The arrangements 
 resemble those of the Serapeum at Pozzuoli (p. 97). 
 
 Adjacent to the Temple of Augustus rises a Triumphal Arch 
 of brick, now divested of its marble, which here forms the bound- 
 ary of the Forum. Under it begins the Street of the Forum. 
 which we now follow (called in its prolongation the Street of 
 Mercury, p. 139). The first transverse street immediately beyond 
 the Triumphal Arch is that of the Augustales. At the corner is a 
 relief with figures of two men Carrying a wine-jar, being the sign 
 of a wine-merchant. Farther on, a little to the right, is the de- 
 pot of the objects sold by the guides (pp. 124, 130). 
 
Thermae. 
 
 POMPEII, 
 
 9. Route. 135 
 
 No. 1, at the corner of the next cross-street, is the Temple 
 of Fortuna (PI. 49), erected according to the inscription by M. 
 Tullius during the reign of Augustus. It is approached by thir- 
 teen steps ; length 79 ft., breadth 29 ft. Two portrait-statues found 
 in the Celia are believed to have belonged to the Gens Tullia. 
 
 At the entrance to the Street of Mercury rises a Brick Arch , 
 on which the pipes of a water-conduit are visible. It was once 
 surmounted by the bronze statue of Nero mentioned at p. 72. 
 
 We now turn to the left into the Strada delle Terme. 
 No. 2, on the left, is the entrance to the * Therm® (PI. 39), 
 which occupy nearly a whole insula, i. e. the space enclosed 
 by four streets; breadth 161 ft., depth 172ft. The exterior was 
 surrounded by shops, which had no connection with the interior. 
 Entrances six in number. A great part of the establishment 
 is now employed as magazines, and the public are admitted to 
 one half of the actual baths only. A passage leads first to the 
 chamber for undressing (apodyterium) , 37 ft. long, 21 ft. wide, 
 and surrounded by benches. Beyond this is the cold bath (frigi- 
 darium), a rotunda with four niches. The vault above was pro- 
 vided with a glass window. In the centre is the basin , 14 ft. 
 in diameter, with a marble ledge surrounding it. From the un- 
 dressing room to the right the warm bath (tepidarium) is enter- 
 ed, an apartment 32 ft. in length, 17^2 ft- in breadth. A frieze 
 running round it is furnished with niches for depositing clothes and 
 articles of the toilet, and is supported by figures of Atlas in terra- 
 cotta. The vaulting was richly decorated, partly with stucco figures 
 in relief. This chamber was heated by means of a large brazier 
 of bronze. Adjacent is the hot-air bath (calidarium or sudatorium ), 
 52 ft. long and 17 ft. broad. A niche at the end contains a marble 
 basin for washing the hands and face with cold water ; it bears 
 an inscription recording that it was erected at a cost of 5250 
 sesterces (39i. sterling). At the other end is the basin for warm 
 baths. The apartment had double walls and floor, between which 
 the steam diffused itself. — The baths also possessed an exten- 
 sive colonnade , now converted into a garden , besides several 
 other chambers and baths for women, none of which are at present 
 open to the public. 
 
 Nearly opposite to the Thermae, Ins. VI. 8, No. 5, is the 
 * House of the Tragic Poet (PI. 38), one of the most elegant in 
 Pompeii , so called from two representations found in the tablinum 
 — a poet reading, and a theatrical rehearsal (which, together with 
 beautiful paintings of subjects from the Iliad , are now in the 
 museum at Naples); but it was more probably the house of a 
 goldsmith, if we may judge from the trinkets discovered in the 
 adjoining shop. This is represented by Bulwer in his ‘Last Days 
 of Pompeii’ as the dwelling of Glaucus. On the threshold was a dog 
 in mosaic, with the inscription ‘Cave Canem’ (p* 62), now in the 
 
136 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 House of Pansa. 
 
 Museum at Naples. The peristyle of seven columns is closed at 
 the back by a wall, on which is a small shrine of the Lares. In 
 a room to the left of the latter, Venus and Cupid fishing, and the 
 deserted Ariadne. In the triclinium on the right, Youth and maiden 
 looking at a nest containing Cupids, Theseus abandoning Ariadne, 
 and Diana with Orion (?). 
 
 We continue to follow the Strada delle Terme. Ins. VI. 6, 
 No. 1, beyond the cross-street, on the right, is the House of Pansa 
 (PI. 37; I)omus Cn . Allei Nigidi Mai), one of the largest in 
 Pompeii, occupying a whole insula, 319ft. long and 124 ft. broad. 
 It comprises sixteen shops and dwellings, facing the different streets. 
 On the threshold was found a mosaic with the greeting SSalve’. 
 This house affords a normal specimen of a palatial residence of 
 the imperial epoch , complete in all its appointments : atrium, 
 tablinum, peristyle, cecus (to the left, adjacent, the kitchen 
 with the snakes), and lastly the garden or Xystus. Comp. Ground- 
 plan, p. 129. 
 
 We next turn to the right towards the Porta di Ercolano. At 
 the picturesque corner opposite, Ins. VI. 3, No. 20, is a tavern, 
 the street to the left of which leads to the gate. This was a 
 business street, and contained few handsome dwelling-houses. 
 
 On the left is a house fitted up as a Library , containing an 
 extensive collection of archaeological works on Pompeii, and for 
 the reception of students supported by government (Scuola Ar- 
 cheologica). 
 
 On the right, Ins. VI. 2, No. 4, is the House of Sallust (PI. 33 ; 
 Domus A. Coss . Libani ), with gaily painted atrium, behind which 
 are the tablinum and a small irregularly-shaped garden , with a 
 dining-room (triclinium) in the corner. Instead of a peristyle, 
 this house contains a small court enclosed by pillars, to the right 
 of the atrium, and styled, though without good reason, the Venereum. 
 On the wall opposite, *ActaBon converted into a stag, and torn to 
 pieces by his own dogs. 
 
 No. 6 is a Bake-house , with ovens and different mills for 
 grinding the corn. The latter were probably turned by asses, or 
 in some cases by slaves. — At the corner of the street is a foun- 
 tain , and behind it a cistern. 
 
 Some of the houses on the left, on the slope of the hill occu- 
 pied hy the town , had several stories , and large vaults, used as 
 magazines. 
 
 A large, open hall to the right, Ins. VI. 1, No. 13, was a kind 
 of Custom-House (PI. 27), where a number of weights and mea- 
 sures were found, one of which had been stamped in the Capitol 
 at Rome. 
 
 No. 10, a little farther on, to the right, is the House of the 
 Surgeon (PI. 26), so called from a considerable number of surgical 
 instruments found' here. It is remarkable for its massive con* 
 
Street of Tombs. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 137 
 
 struction of limestone blocks from the river Sarno, and is probably 
 the most ancient house in the town. We next reach No. 7, on 
 the right, the extensive House of the Vestals (PI. 25). 
 
 No. 3, on the left, opposite, is a large Tavern , with a phallus 
 towards the street, intended to avert the evil eye. It contains two 
 wine-tables, and has an entrance for waggons. From the cham- 
 bers at the back, as well as from the preceding and following 
 houses on this side, a charming glimpse is obtained of the bay 
 with the island of Capri ; near the land is the picturesque little 
 rocky island of Revigliano ; to the right is Torre dell’ Annunziata. 
 
 No. 2, on the right, is another tavern, and beyond it is the 
 Porta di Ercolano (136 ft. above the sea-level). To the right of 
 the gate is the approach to the *Town Wall, which may be visited 
 for the sake of the view. The wall is 2843 yds. in circumference, 
 and consists of an outer and inner wall, the intervening space 
 being filled with earth. The height of the external wall varies ac- 
 cording to the ground from 25 to 33 ft., the internal being uni- 
 formly 8 ft. higher. Being constructed in several very different 
 styles, it obviously dates from several distinct periods. The older 
 part is built of large blocks of tufa and limestone, while the more 
 recent consists chiefly of concrete (small pieces of lava consolidated 
 with cement). The difference between these kinds of building 
 will be observed near this gate. At a later period, perhaps during 
 the f Social War , it was strengthened by the addition of towers. 
 During the undisturbed peace of the imperial period, the walls 
 on the side towards the sea were probably removed , and their 
 site built over. The Gate of Herculaneum is one of the more 
 recent structures. It consists of three series of arches, of which the 
 central and largest has fallen in. The depth of the passage is 59 ft. 
 
 Outside this gate lay a considerable suburb, the Payus 
 Augustus Felix , so named in honour of Augustus. One street 
 of this only has been partially excavated ; but several others di- 
 verged from it on each side. This is the so-called * Street of the 
 Tombs ( Strada dei Sepolcri ) : the great military road from Capua 
 to Naples, Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Reggio. The ancient Roman 
 custom of burying the dead by the side of a high road is well 
 known. It has been ascertained that rows of graves, similar to 
 those discovered here, exist beyond the other gates also. The 
 Street of Tombs is in point of situation the most beautiful part 
 of the town. 
 
 On the right, No. 1, is a large unfinished pedestal. 
 
 On the left, No. 1, is the Tomb of Cerinius (PI. 22), a recess 
 with seats. It has been said that this was a sentry-box, and that 
 the skeleton found in it was that of the sentinel who expired at 
 his post ; but this is a mere fiction. 
 
 L. No. 2, a semicircular seat with the tomb of the duumvir 
 A. Veins , 
 
138 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 Street of Tombs. 
 
 L. No. 4, *Tomb of Mamia (PI. 20); in front a seat like the 
 above, with the inscription : ‘ Mamiae Publii filiae sacerdoti pu- 
 blicae locus sepulturne datus decurionum decreto J . At the back, en- 
 closed by a low wall, is the columbarium, with niches for cinerary 
 urns. A solitary cypress adorns the tomb. The view hence of the 
 bay and the mountains of Castellamare is singularly beautiful. — On 
 a street diverging to the right, No. 2, is the Tomb ofTerentius (PI. 18). 
 
 Farther on, on the right, No. 6, is the Tomb of the Garlands 
 (PI. 16), so called from its decorations; name unknown. R. No. 9, 
 a tomb with open recess and seat. 
 
 On the left is the so-called Villa of Cicero (PI. 13), again 
 covered up. The buttresses still visible belong to a colonnade which 
 ran parallel to the street. 
 
 R. Nos. 10 and 11, two shops. No. 12, House of the Mosaic 
 Columns (PL 14), very dilapidated. The entrance leads first into 
 a garden, at the end of which is a recess inlaid with mosaic, and 
 used as a fountain ; to the left is a court with a private chapel and 
 altar. The two staircases ascended to the upper floor. 
 
 On the left, beyond the villa of Cicero, several handsome mon- 
 uments will be observed : No. 16, that oi Servilia (PI. 11). No. 17, 
 that of Scaurus (PI. 10), with reliefs in stucco, representing gladia- 
 torial combats, but in a very ruinous condition. The columbarium 
 contains niches for the urns. 
 
 On the right is a long arcade, at the back of which there were 
 shops. From the skeleton of a mule found here it has been 
 suggested that this was a resort of peasants on market-days. In the 
 last shop is a stove, the upper part of which consisted of earthen- 
 ware vessels fitted together. — Farther on are several ancient tombs 
 of limestone discovered in 1872, belonging to the remote Oscan 
 period, when the dead were buried instead of being burned, and 
 when painted vessels of terracotta were interred with them. — The 
 street which diverges here is still unexcavated. 
 
 On the right are several ruined tombs, the first of which is 
 supposed to have been an ustrinum , or place of cremation. 
 
 L. No. 18, a circular monument, name unknown. 
 
 L. No. 20, *Tomb of the Augustalis Calventius Quintus ( PL 6); 
 below the inscription is represented the bisellium (seat of honour) 
 accorded him in recognition of his liberality. 
 
 R. No. 37, *Tomb of the Libella family (Pl. 7), of travertine, 
 and well-preserved, with inscriptions. Beyond, to the right, are 
 several ruined tombs, with inscriptions partially preserved. 
 
 L. No. 22, *Tomb of Naevoleia Tyche (Pl. 5), with chamber 
 for cinerary urns. The deceased was a freedwoman, who, ac- 
 cording to the inscription, destined this tomb for herself and 
 C. Munatius Faustus, chief official of this quarter of the town, 
 and for their freedmen ; a relief below refers to the con- 
 secration of the tomb ; on the left side is the bisellium, or ma- 
 
Villa of Diomedes. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 13§ 
 
 gisterial seat of Munatius, on the right a vessel entering the har- 
 bour, a symbol of human life. No. 23 was a Triclinium for ban- 
 quets in honour of the dead. 
 
 No. 24, *Villa of Diomedes (PI. 1), arbitrarily so called from 
 the opposite tomb of the family of Arrius Diomedes (PI. 2). The 
 arrangement of this, like that of other villas, differs considerably 
 from that of the urban dwellings. A flight of steps with two col- 
 umns leads at once to the peristyle of fourteen Doric columns, 
 whence the bath is entered to the left. Opposite are terraces, which 
 rise above the second and lower portion of the house. The garden, 
 107 ft. square, with a basin for a fountain in the centre , is sur- 
 rounded by a colonnade. From the terrace a staircase descends to 
 the left (another, from the entrance from the street, to the right). 
 Below this colonnade , on three sides, lies a vaulted cellar which 
 merits a visit , lighted by small apertures above , and approached 
 by staircases descending at each end. Seventeen bodies of women 
 and children, who had provided themselves with food, and sought 
 protection in this vault against the eruption, were found here. But 
 impalpable ashes penetrated through the openings into the interior, 
 and too late the ill-fated party endeavoured to escape. They were 
 found with their heads wrapped up, half buried by the ashes. The 
 impression made on the ashes by a girl’s breast is now in the 
 museum at Naples. The probable proprietor of the house was 
 found near the garden-door (now walled up), with the key in 
 his hand; beside him was a slave with money and valuables. 
 
 We now retrace our steps by the same route to the Gate of 
 Herculaneum and the Scuola Archeologica (p. 136), whence we 
 enter the Vicolo di Mercurio ( Via Prima, between Ins. YI. 2 and 
 Ins. VI. 3), the transverse street to the left. 
 
 The third street intersecting the latter at right angles is the 
 important Strada di Mercurio ( Via Sexta), leading from the town- 
 wall to the Forum, and deriving its name from a Fountain with a 
 Mercury’s head immediately on the right. We now turn to the 
 left towards the town-wall. 
 
 Nos. 6 and 7 (Ins. YI. 9) on the opposite (E.) side are the 
 House of Castor and Pollux (PI. 46 ; Domus Cn. Caetroni Eutychi ), 
 consisting of two distinct houses, but connected. No. 7 is simple 
 and homely. It is connected with the neighbouring house by a 
 large peristyle, adorned with paintings all round ; at the end is a 
 basin for a fountain; beyond it is a hall. From the peristyle the 
 atrium of the other house is entered to the left, beyond which 
 are the tablinum and a garden with lararium. The best preserved 
 of the frescoes is one of Apollo and Daphne in a room to the 
 left of the garden. 
 
 Farther on, Nos. 5-3, House of the Centaur (PI. 45), two 
 
f 40 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 House of Meleager. 
 
 different houses, connected by a door. No. 5 has an underground 
 dwelling, the vaulting of which has fallen in. 
 
 Adjacent, No. 2, * House of Meleager (PI. 44). Within the 
 doorway, to the right, Mercury handing a purse to Fortuna. The 
 richly decorated atrium contains a marble table, borne by grif- 
 fins. Contrary to the usual arrangement, the peristyle does not lie 
 behind, but to the left of the atrium. This is the finest peristyle 
 which has been discovered at Pompeii, being 73 ft. in length, and 
 60 ft. in breadth. The porticus is borne by twenty-four columns 
 (lower part red, upper white), and adorned by a graceful fountain. 
 Adjoining the peristyle at the back is an oeeus, enclosed on 
 three sides by twelve yellow painted columns. The frescoes are 
 also yellow ; among them, to the right, a young Satyr startling a Bac- 
 chante with a snake. To the left of the cecus is a hall with frescoes : 
 on the transverse wall to the left, the Judgment of Paris. 
 
 We return along the opposite side of the street. Ins. VI. 7, 
 No. 23, House of Apollo (PI. 43; Domus A . Herenulei Communis ), 
 so named from the numerous representations of that god which were 
 found here. Behind the tablinum, a fountain of a grotesque style. 
 To the right is an adjoining court, at the end of which is a hand- 
 some sleeping-chamber (for two beds); on the external wall is a 
 landscape with a Bacchanalian, and a mosaic of Achilles in Scyrus ; 
 among the weapons which Ulysses offers him is a shield, on which 
 Achilles and Chiron are represented. 
 
 No. 18, House of the Wounded Adonis (PI. 42; Domus M. 
 Asellini). In the Xystus, to the right, a fresco, above life-size, of 
 *Adonis wounded, tended and bewailed by Yenus and Cupids ; at 
 the sides, Achilles and Chiron. In a room to the left of the 
 Xystus, ‘Toilet of the Hermaphrodite’. 
 
 Continuing to follow the Strada di Mercurio, we next observe 
 on the left, opposite the fountain mentioned at p. 139, Ins. VI. 10, 
 No. 1, a *Tavern; towards the street is a table covered with 
 marble and a fire-place. A door leads from the shop to the left 
 into a small room adorned with various allusions to drinking: 
 a waggon with a wine-cask, players and drinkers, eatables, etc. 
 In the corner to the left a soldier is being served ; above him is 
 scribbled : ‘da fridam pusillum’ (a glass of cold). To the right 
 two other chambers, out of the first of which a door leads to the 
 neighbouring house No. 2, the Casa dei Cinque Scheletri (so called 
 from the five skeletons found here), which was perhaps used as 
 a lodging-house. 
 
 From the corner of the Yicolo di Mercurio a digression may be 
 made in the adjacent street to the left to the House of the Labyrinth 
 (opposite side of first side-street, immediately to the left; PI. 47), 
 a roomy dwelling with two atria; principal entrance, Ins. YI. 11, 
 No. 9, second door No. 10. In the passage leading to the peri- 
 style, immediately to the left and opening on the latter, is a 
 
House of the Faun. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route . 141 
 
 window of terracotta with six small apertures, resembling pigeon- 
 holes. In the room beyond the peristyle, to the left, a mosaic 
 pavement: Theseus killing the Minotaur in the Labyrinth. The 
 house to the left was destined for the menage ; it contains a finely 
 decorated hath with three rooms, and a large hake-house. 
 
 We now return to the Strada di Mercurio. 
 
 R., Ins. VI. 8, No. 23, *House of the Small Fountain (della 
 fontana piccola, PI. 41); to the right of the entrance a staircase 
 ascends to the 2nd floor. At the end of the house is a ^Fountain 
 of gaily coloured mosaic, adorned with a small and graceful bronze : 
 Boy with a goose (a copy, original at Naples). The walls are deco- 
 rated with landscapes, among which is a *Harbour on the left. 
 
 R. No. 22, House of the Large Fountain , at the end of 
 which is a mosaic *Fountain similar to the above. 
 
 R. No. 20, the Fullonica (PI. 40), or fuller’s establishment. 
 The large atrium, borne by square pillars (on one of which 
 were frescoes alluding to the fuller’s art, now in Naples), was 
 perhaps covered in and used as a magazine. Around it are 
 chambers for the workmen. At the end of the house are four 
 basins on different levels, destined for washing the cloths, which 
 were afterwards stamped with the feet in the small stands to 
 the right. One egress leads to the Strada della Fullonica. Adjacent 
 to these premises, and connected with them by a door, was the 
 dwelling-house of the proprietor, No. 21. 
 
 L., Ins. VI. 10, No. 6 , House of Pomponius , with an oil-mill 
 to the right of the entrance. 
 
 L. No. 7, House of the Anchor (PI. 48), named after an 
 anchor in mosaic on the threshold, a spacious dwelling. By the 
 tablinum a staircase descends to a peristyle on the level of the 
 Strada della Fortuna, surrounded by a cryptoporticus. 
 
 R., Ins. VI. 8, No. 14, Barbers Shop , very small. In the 
 centre a seat for customers ; to the right a bench and two recesses. 
 
 Having reached the brick archway of the Strada di Mer- 
 curio (p. 135), we now turn to the left into the Strada della 
 Fortuna (Decumanus Major), a prolongation of the Strada delle 
 Terme , leading to the Gate of Nola. 
 
 L., beyond the first cross - street, Ins. VI. 12, Nos. 2-5, the 
 *House of the Faun (PI. 50), discovered in 1830 in presence of 
 Goethe’s son, atid entirely excavated during the two following- 
 years. The name is derived from the bronze statuette of a dancing 
 Faun found here (p. 71). The house occupies a whole insula, 
 and is the handsomest in Pompeii, 262 ft. long and 125 ft. 
 broad. The style of its decoration proves it to date from the 
 republican era. It contained beautiful mosaics , but hardly any 
 mural paintings. The stucco on the walls is an imitation of in- 
 crustation in coloured marble (comp. p. xl). On the pavement 
 in front of the house is the greeting ‘Have’. It possesses two 
 
1 42 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 Hou&e of the Christ. 
 
 entrances and two atria. The left atrium (35 ft. by 38 ft.) is 
 in the Tuscan style, i. e. the roof was borne by cross-beams 
 without vertical support. On each side of it there are four 
 rooms. The 4th on the left contains a mosaic representing doves 
 by a casket. In the centre of the impluvium stood the bronze 
 statuette already mentioned. The simpler atrium on the right is 
 an atrium tetrastylum , i. e. the roof-beams were borne by four 
 columns near the impluvium. The peristyle contains twenty-eight 
 Ionic columns of tufa coated with stucco. In the exedra , which 
 opens on the peristyle, was found the celebrated mosaic of the 
 Battle of Alexander (p. 69). At the back is a garden 105 ft. long, 
 115 ft. broad, enclosed by fifty-six columns of the Doric order. 
 Numerous amphorae were found here. 
 
 R., Ins. YU. 4, No. 59, Casa della Pareta Neva (PI. 51), so 
 called from the black wall in the exedra, covered with represen- 
 tations of Cupids, beautifully executed , but unfortunately in bad 
 preservation. 
 
 R. No. 57, Casa dei Capitelli Figurati (PI. 52), named after 
 the capitals of the entrance-pillars, adorned with heads of Bac- 
 chantes and Fauns. From the peristyle we enter a sugar-bake- 
 house, the use of which has been conjectured from the nature 
 of the objects found in it. The stove is still in existence. 
 
 R. No. 56, House of the Grand-Duke of Tuscany (PI. 53), 
 small, with mosaic fountain. 
 
 R. No. 51, House of Ariadne (PI. 54), extending to the 
 Street of the Augustales, towards which it has an additional 
 atrium. The atrium next to the Str. della Fortuna has twenty 
 columns, the peristyle sixteen, the lower parts being yellow, and 
 the capitals variegated. In the centre is a fountain. Various 
 representations. 
 
 R. No. 48, House of the Chase (PI. 55). In the peristyle 
 (which has columns on two sides only and a basin in the centre), 
 opposite, wild beast fights, whence the name of the house ; on 
 the right, landscapes. 
 
 If we follow the Strada della Fortuna for a short distance, 
 we reach the broad Strada Stabiana (p. 144 ; Cardo ), diverging to 
 the right, the N. extension of which, with Insulje VI. 14 and V. 1, 
 was excavated quite recently. At the corner to the left are a 
 Fountain and an Altar of the Lares ; adjacent is the pillar of an 
 Aqueduct. Of the houses here the following are noticeable : — 
 L., Ins. VI. 14, No. 20, with a mutilated hermes erected by the 
 arcarius (cashier) Anteros to M. Vesonius Primus , the master of 
 the house, with projecting props for the support of wreaths. The 
 peristyle is adorned with a fresco of Orpheus, over life-size. - — 
 No. 22, a Fullonica , or fuller’s workshop. The atrium contains a 
 handsome impluvium, in which the bronze summit of the fountain 
 is still preserved, and several handsome table-supports. In the 
 
Strada di Nola. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 143 
 
 room at the back are three basins (comp. p. 141), and on the 
 wall are paintings of a banquet of fullers (fullones) and a scene in 
 a court of law. — Opposite, to the right, Ins. V. 1, No. 26, the 
 house of L. Caecilius Jucundus , the banker, where the receipts 
 now preserved in the Museo Nazionale (p. 74) were discovered. 
 In the atrium stood a hermes erected to the banker by his freedman 
 Felix; the pedestal, with the inscription ‘ Genio L(uci) n(ostri) 
 Felix libertus ’ is still here, but the bronze bust has been removed 
 to the Museo (p. 71). The beautiful ^Paintings in the tablinum 
 are unfortunately somewhat faded. The large room to the left of 
 the peristyle contains a fine representation of ^Theseus deserting 
 Ariadne. — Farther on, No. 18; the last room to the left of the 
 peristyle is adorned with paintings and Greek epigrams (to the left, 
 Pan and Cupid wrestling). 
 
 The prolongation of the Strada della Fortuna , beyond the 
 Strada Stabiana, is called the Strada di Nola, and leads in 5 min. 
 to the gate of that name , which is one of the most ancient in 
 the town. Here the first two insulae to the S. were excavated 
 in 1877-78, but beyond them the fronts only of the houses have 
 as yet been laid bare. 
 
 The whole of the first insula to the right (IX. 4) is occupied by 
 extensive Thermae , which were in course of construction at the 
 time the city was overwhelmed. In the large court, which is acces- 
 sible on three sides, the labourers seem to have been in the very 
 act of making the gutter and laying the bases for the columns of the 
 portico when they were overtaken by the catastrophe of A. D. 79. 
 The large swimming-basin, to the left, below the windows of the 
 inner rooms, was also unfinished. Instead of the two swimming- 
 baths, for men and women, usually found in the Thermae, there is 
 here only this one, which is, however, of unwonted size, and quite 
 destitute of ornamentation. Passing through an antechamber on 
 the left, off which open several rooms of unknown purpose, we 
 reach the dressing-room ( apodyterium ), containing a large bath of 
 cold water (frigidarium). Next to this is the warm bath (tepida- 
 rium ), beyond which is the hot chamber ( calidarium ), with three 
 basins for hot baths. To the left of the tepidarium is the laconi- 
 cum , or sudatory, covered with a vaulted roof, and also connected 
 with the calidarium. The three rooms last mentioned appear to 
 have been heated by means of double floors and walls, traces of 
 which are still visible in the laconicum. The heating-furnaces had 
 not yet been built. The three largest rooms are provided with 
 large windows, another divergence from the ordinary plan of the 
 Thermae. 
 
 The houses in the next insula (IX. 5) contain numerous paint- 
 ings, most of which, however, are of little artistic merit. The first 
 house, No. 2, contains, in the room to the left of the tablinum, 
 three scenes from the story of Achilles : His recognition at Scyros, 
 
144 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. Strada dell Abbondanza . 
 
 Hephaestus showing Thetis the armour he had made for Achilles, 
 and Thetis on a Triton taking the armour to her son. — Leaving 
 this house by the door at the hack, to the right, we reach after a 
 few paces the house No. 21, the principal entrance to which i& 
 from the S. (No. 18); the room at the S.W. corner of the house 
 is decorated with three paintings representing a woman consulting 
 with a girl about a letter, Medea on the point of slaying her child- 
 ren, and Paris about to declare his passion for Helen (Cupid enter- 
 ing at the door). Other important paintings found in this house 
 have been removed from the walls. — The house in the S.E. angle 
 of this insula, No. 16, seems to have been a tavern, and contains 
 a room with paintings of the grossest description. 
 
 A large house in the insula to the E. of the last, with a hand- 
 some, spacious peristyle, was excavated in 1879. It contains a small 
 bath, the marble flooring of which seems to have been removed in 
 some early excavation. One of the rooms with black walls and 
 flooring is tastefully decorated with coloured paintings, inserted in 
 the walls at a later period : right, Orestes, Pylades, and Iphigeneia ; 
 left, Theseus and the Minotaur ; in the middle , Hermaphrodite 
 and Silenus. 
 
 We now turn to the W., and pass through the lane between Ins. 
 IX. 3 and IX. 4 to the Strada Stabiana. Immediately to the left, 
 Ins. IX. 3, No. 5, the *House of Marcus Lucretius (PI. 56), once 
 richly fitted up, though with questionable taste (shown at the request 
 of the visitor). Behind the atrium is a small *Garden, laid out in 
 terraces, with a fountain and a number of marble figures. The best 
 of the paintings are preserved at Naples. This is one of the few 
 houses in Pompeii of which the proprietor’s name is known. The 
 information was afforded by a letter found with the painted address : 
 M. Lucretio Flam. Martis decurioni Pompei. 
 
 Continuing to descend the Stabian Street towards the gate, we 
 reach (1. ; Ins. IX. 2, No. 9), a house with frescoes in the tablinum 
 representing the ‘Caritas Romana’ and the forsaken Ariadne ; then 
 (r. ; Ins. VII. 1, No. 25), the House of Siricus , with a handsome 
 marble table in the atrium. A staircase leads from the peristyle to the 
 W. part of the house, entered by the Strada del Lupanare (p. 146). 
 
 Farther. on, to the right, are the Thermae (see below) at the 
 corner of the Strada dell’ Abbondanza (from which they are 
 entered). This broad street ascends from the Stabian Street 
 (79 ft. above the sea-level) to the Forum. On the other side, 
 towards the Porta del Sarno , it is only excavated as far as the 
 next street (Fico di Tesmo , see below). At the corner here is the 
 buttress of an aqueduct, leaden pipes from which are observed 
 on the pavement farther on. 
 
 On the left, in the direction of the Sarno Gate, Ins. IX. 1, 
 No. 20, is the Casa dei Diadumeni (PI. 90), or of Epidrus Rufus , 
 with a small platform in front of the facade, and a handsome atrium 
 
Stabian Thermae. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 145 
 
 with fourteen columns. Within it is a lararium on the right, with 
 the inscription , ‘Genio Marci nostri et Laribus duo Diadumeni 
 liberti’. At the back is a garden, to the left of which is the 
 vaulted kitchen. — The atrium of the House of Epidius Sabinus , 
 No. 22 (left), contains a well-preserved lararium, with paintings at 
 the back, nearly obliterated. These houses have been brought to 
 light since 1866. The excavations have been carried as far as 
 the old Porta Stabiana to the S., lower down. — Ascending the 
 platform in a straight direction, we reach a cart-road leading to 
 the Amphitheatre (see p. 149). 
 
 The Vico di Tesmo (left) affords a good example of the monotonous 
 character of the more remote streets. At the corner we observe 
 the Tannery (Ins. I. 5, No. 2), and also an atrium (PI. 91 ; Ins. 1. 2, 
 No. 28), the compluvium of which was covered with an iron grating 
 (restored) as a protection against thieves. 
 
 We now return and continue to ascend the Strada dell’ Ab- 
 bondanza towards the Forum , near which this handsome street, 
 with its numerous shops, was closed by means of stone pillars, 
 in order to exclude carriages. 
 
 L., Ins. VIII. 4, No. 15, mouse of Cornelius Rufus (PI. 72). 
 The atrium contains two handsome pedestals for tables, and a bust 
 with the inscription, ‘C. Cornelio Rufo’. The peristyle has eight- 
 een columns. 
 
 In the Strada dell’ Abbondanza, on the right (Ins. VII. 1, No. 8), 
 is the principal entrance to the *Stabian Thermae (PI. 69). They 
 are larger and older than the Therm* at the back of the Forum, 
 and date from the Oscan period, but were afterwards extended and 
 redecorated. We enter a spacious court, flanked by pillars on two 
 sides , which was used for palaestric exercises. On the wall on the 
 left are stucco ornaments in relief. Two rooms situated here were 
 perhaps intended for undressing. Then a basin for cold baths, 
 16 paces long, 9 paces broad, 5 ft. deep, and another vaulted 
 room. In the wing opposite, which has a side entrance from the 
 street, are four baths for single bathers on the left. — In the 
 upper part of the wing to the right is the Women s Bath. The 
 door above leads into a vestibule , into which the dressing-room 
 opens on the left; from the street are two separate entrances. 
 Round the vaulted hall are niches for clothes; in the corner is 
 a basin enclosed by masonry. Adjacent is the warm bath , a 
 vaulted saloon with double walls. Then the sudatory, the vaulting 
 of which has fallen in ; at one end is a marble basin, at the 
 other a fountain for cold water; the walls are double. Behind 
 these chambers were the stoves. — The Mens Bath , to the right 
 near the entrance, is similar. The first door on the left leads from 
 the large dressing-room to the cold, the second to the warm bath ; 
 beyond is the sudatory. The two latter are much dilapidated. 
 
 L., Ins. VIII. 4, No. 4, House of Holconius (PI. 70), with 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 10 
 
146 Route 9. POMPEII. House of Siricus. 
 
 handsome peristyle, rich in paintings, but faded. In the ceciis (r.) 
 Ariadne and Bacchus; (1.) Hermaphrodite; in the room to the 
 right, Rape of Europa ; in the room to the left, Achilles in Scyrus, 
 and Judgment of Paris. 
 
 A few paces farther the Theatre Street (see below ) diverges to 
 the left, while we follow the Strada del Lupanare to the right. 
 
 R., Ins. VII. 1, No. 47, *House of Siricus (PI. 71). On the 
 threshold the inscription, 4 Salve lucru(m)' to the same proprietor 
 belonged the large adjacent bake-house, No. 46. To the left of the 
 atrium is a room with good paintings : (1.) Neptune and Apollo 
 helping to build the walls of Troy ; opposite, *Drunken Hercules ; 
 (r.) * Vulcan presenting Thetis with weapons for Achilles. The 
 columns of the peristyle are painted green. 
 
 To the left on the opposite wall are large snakes, with the in- 
 scription : 4 Otiosis locus hie non est, discede morator\ 
 
 To the left at the corner of the second lane, the Vicolo del 
 Balcone Pensile, is Ins. VII. 12, No. 18, the Lupanare (PI. 83; 
 closed) ; at the sides five sleeping-places ; in front, the seat of the 
 hostess. The bad character of the house is sufficiently indicated by 
 the paintings and inscriptions. A separate entrance from the street 
 ascended direct to the upper floor. 
 
 We now follow the Vicolo del Balcone Pensile, which leads 
 to the left between Insulae VII. 12 and VII. 11 and 10. 
 
 R. No. 26, House with fine frescoes at the back, to the left. 
 
 R. No. 28, *House with the Balcony (PI. 84; Casa del Bal- 
 cone Pensile'). The atrium contains a fountain with a marble figure 
 on the right. Three rooms of the upper floor have been pre- 
 served by carefully replacing the charred woodwork by new beams 
 — a laborious and costly undertaking. The projecting wooden 
 structure is similar to that frequently seen in old continental 
 towns, and appears to have been common in Pompeii. 
 
 The Vicolo del Balcone Pensile terminates in the Vicolo di Eu - 
 machia , which extends behind the buildings of the Forum. This 
 street leads us to the left towards the Strada dell’ Abbondanza. 
 At the corner is a fountain with head and cornucopia of Abundan- 
 tia, whence the name of the street. On the wall of the Chalcidicum 
 public advertisements used to be painted (album), but little of them 
 now remains. 
 
 On the opposite side , nearer the Forum, Ins. VIII. 3, No. 8, 
 House of the Boar Hunt (PI. 67) , named from the mosaic in the 
 passage. The peristyle has fourteen Ionic columns. The border of 
 the large mosaic in the atrium represents an ancient town-wall. 
 On the wall next the Vicolo (PI. 68) are represented the twelve 
 gods with their attributes, almost effaced. 
 
 We continue to descend the Str. dell’ Abbondanza, and enter 
 the Theatre Street to the right ( Via Sexta, between Insulae VIII. 
 4 and VIII. 6), leading to the Forum Triangulare. Near the latter 
 
Great Theatre. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route. 147 
 
 is a porticus with six Ionic columns. The street to the left, which 
 leads to the Stabian Street, is the Street of Isis (p. 148), which 
 should now be visited before the theatres by those who purpose 
 omitting the amphitheatre. 
 
 This S. quarter is the oldest in the town, and has preserved 
 many of its characteristics. 
 
 The so-called Forum Triangulare (PI. 75) is bounded on three 
 sides by a porticus of a hundred columns of the Doric order, 
 destined chiefly for the use of the frequenters of the theatre. 
 On the N. side is a pedestal for a statue, with an inscription. The 
 side next the sea was open. On a basement here, approached by 
 five steps, stood a * Temple in the ancient Greek style (styled, 
 without the slightest foundation, a Temple of Hercules), 101 ft. in 
 length and 67 ft. in breadth. It was surrounded by columns, eight 
 being in front and eleven at each side , and in the centre was the 
 shrine. The whole building was in the ancient Doric order of about 
 the 6th cent. B.C. A few capitals, two broken columns, and some 
 fragments of the wall of the cella are now the sole remains of this 
 once imposing structure. It was doubtless overthrown by the earth- 
 quake of 63 ; and, if so, the inhabitants of the stuccoed buildings 
 of the imperial age would never dream of restoring it in its massive 
 and simple dignity. — The enclosed space in front of the temple 
 was perhaps used for the slaughter of the victims. To the left of 
 it are three altars. 
 
 Beyond the temple, No. 32, is a *Bidental (PI. 81), a unique 
 relic of its kind. It consists of the large embouchure of a foun- 
 tain (puteal), enclosing a spot struck by lightning, such places 
 being regarded as sacred, and calling for atonement. Around it 
 was erected a small, circular temple, 12 ft. in diameter, with 
 eight Doric columns. 
 
 On the other side of the temple is a semicircular seat, where 
 there was once a sun-dial, now much decayed. 
 
 Below the Theatre are the so-called Soldiers or Gladiators' 
 Barracks (to which a flight of steps descends from the Forum 
 Triangulare), the real object of which is not ascertained. The 
 court is surrounded by a porticus of seventy-four columns ; length 
 151 ft. , breadth 125 ft. Around it are a number of detached 
 cells. The edifice had a second floor, as the imitation on the 
 S. side shows, which contains the rooms of some of the custodians 
 and a small chapel. In a chamber used as a prison were found three 
 skeletons and iron stocks for the feet. Sixty-three bodies in all 
 were discovered in this building. 
 
 Adjoining the Forum Triangulare is the *Great Theatre (PI. 77), 
 the walls of which protruded from the rubbish even before the re- 
 discovery of Pompeii. It is situated on rising ground, and is a 
 building of very early origin. About the beginning of the Christian 
 era it was restored by the architect M, Artorius, at the expense 
 
 10 * 
 
148 Route 9. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 Temple of Isis . 
 
 of M. Holconius Rufus and M. Holeonius Celer. After the earth- 
 quake of 63 it underwent repair, hut the restoration was far 
 from complete at the time of the final catastrophe. The space 
 for the spectators consists of three ranks ( ima , media, and summa 
 cavea) ; the first contains four tiers for the chairs of persons of 
 rank, the second twenty, and the third four. Corridors and stair- 
 cases led to the different parts of the building. It is estimated 
 that 5000 spectators could be accommodated. Behind the orchestra 
 is the long and narrow stage, in front of which is an opening in 
 the ground for the rising and falling of the curtain. The poste- 
 rior wall of the stage, once adorned with statues, is provided with 
 three doors, according to the rules of the ancient drama. Behind 
 these was the dressing-room. On the summit of the outer wall 
 are seen the stone rings for the poles which supported an awning 
 in sunny weather. Behind the theatre is a square reservoir , the 
 water of which was used in hot weather for refreshing the specta- 
 tors by means of a slight sprinkling. 
 
 The adjacent *Small Theatre (PI. 78) is better preserved 
 than the great. An inscription records that it was roofed in 
 ( theatrum tectum , probably a wooden roof). Number of specta- 
 tors 1500. The seats are cut out in such a way that the feet 
 of the spectator did not inconvenience the person sitting on the 
 tier below him. The building dates from about B.C. 75. The 
 marble pavement of the orchestra was, according to an inscription, 
 presented by M. Oculatius, a duumvir. 
 
 From the Small Theatre we emerge on the Stabian Street, 
 which we re-ascend. On the left, at the corner of the Street of 
 Isis, Ins. VIII. 8, No. 25, the *Temple of JEsculapius (PI. 79), the 
 smallest in Pompeii, 68ft. long, 22 l fott. broad. The anterior 
 court contains an archaic altar of tufa, recalling the sarcophagus of 
 Scipio in the Vatican. The cella is approached by nine steps. The 
 name of the temple is merely conjectural. 
 
 Nearly opposite the temple (Ins. I. 4, No. 5) is the Casa del 
 Citarista (PI. 89), named after the Apollo in the style of Pasiteles 
 found here (p. 71). This is one of the largest houses at Pompeii, 
 comprising two atria and three peristyles. 
 
 We now enter the Street of Isis to the left. 
 
 Here, on the left, Ins. VIII. 8, No. 28, rises the *Temple of 
 Isis (PI. 73), which, as the copy of the inscription over the en- 
 trance informs us, was restored after the earthquake of 63 by N. 
 Popidius Celsinus, a boy six years of age, at his own expense, who 
 in recognition of this service was received into the rank of the 
 decuriones. Length 98 ft., width 60 ft. The court is surrounded 
 by a porticus; between the columns are several altars, and an 
 ancient aperture for the reception of the remains of sacrifices, 
 now used as an air-shaft of the Sarno tunnel. On the left is a 
 small shrine, the so-called Puryatorium , in which ablutions were 
 
Amphitheatre. 
 
 POMPEII. 
 
 9. Route . 149 
 
 performed ; a staircase here descended to a well ; the walls are 
 tastefully adorned with reliefs in stucco. Within the temple 
 itself was found the statuette of Isis, now in the museum (p. 65). 
 The chambers adjoining the wall on the left were occupied by the 
 priests. Several bodies were found here; and on the fire-place 
 were remains of food. 
 
 The next door on the left in the Street of Isis, No. 29, leads 
 into a court surrounded by columns, with a curious balustrade in 
 the centre, the object of which is unascertained. The place was a 
 palaestra of the Oscan period, and was afterwards shortened. 
 
 We return through the Stabian Street to the Strada dei Dia- 
 dumeni, and proceed past the Casa dei Diadumeni to the platform 
 mentioned at p. 145 , from the upper end of which a cart-road 
 leads over the unexcavated part of the town in 8 min. to the last 
 important relic of ancient Pompeii, the — 
 
 ^Amphitheatre , situated at the S.E. end of the town, and 
 detached from the other ruins. Outwardly the building looks 
 somewhat insignificant, as a great part of it, as high as the second 
 story, was excavated in the earth for the purpose of simplifying 
 the construction. Round the exterior runs an uncovered gallery, 
 to which stairs ascend for the use of the spectators in the upper 
 places. The principal entrance descends considerably. Whole length 
 148, width 114 yds. ; number of spectators 20,000. Three different 
 series of seats are distinguished, the first with five, the second 
 with twelve, and the third with eighteen tiers ; above these also 
 ran a gallery. The seats are cut out in the same manner as in 
 the small theatre. The building was begun in B.C. 70, and after- 
 wards continued at intervals. For several decades before the year 
 79 the amphitheatre had not been used , so that the story of the 
 people having been surprised by the eruption while witnessing a 
 gladiator combat here is a pure myth. 
 
 The excavations of last century led to the discovery of other buildings 
 near the amphitheatre, but these owing to the absence of any system at 
 that period, were afterwards covered up again. 
 
 On leaving the Amphitheatre we may return to the railway-station 
 in */4 hr., either by the high road, or by traversing the mounds of ashes 
 and passing part of the town-wall. Those who have driven from Naples 
 should order the carriage to wait for them at the Amphitheatre. 
 
 10. Castellamare, Sorrento, and Capri. 
 
 Comp. Map , p. 94. 
 
 Railway from Naples to Castellamare , 17 M., in 1 hr.-, fares 3 fr. 10, 
 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 25 c. \ nine trains in summer, fewer in winter. — Carriage 
 from Castellamare to Sorrento , 10 M., in l^hr. \ tariff, see p. 150. A 
 seat (‘un posto’ , l-H /2 fr.) may easily be obtained by a single traveller 
 in one of the numerous carriages frequenting this road. 
 
 Steamboat of the Society Anonima Procida- Ischia direct from Naples 
 across the bay to Sorrento , 15 M. (and thence to Capri), in l 3 /4 hr., 
 daily in Jan., Feb., and March*, during the rest of the year on Mondays, 
 
150 Route 10. 
 
 CASTELLAMARE, 
 
 From Naples 
 
 Wednesdays, and Fridays. Tlie vessel starts from S. Lucia (at the foot of 
 the steps, see p. 35) at 8, 8. 30, or 9 a.m. ; fare 0 fr. ; return - ticket, 
 available for one day only, 10 fr. (comp. p. 157$ office, Str. Nuova 14, see 
 p. 40). Another small steamer now plies daily between Naples and Sor- 
 rento at much more moderate fares (1 fr. or 50 c.), leaving Naples at 
 
 2 p.iri. and returning from Sorrento at 7 a.m. (office, Strada Piliero 10, 
 near the Immacolatella, PI. 24). — Gentlemen may cross to Sorrento by 
 the Market Boat which usually leaves the Porta di Massa by the Molo 
 Piccolo (PI. F, 5) every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 2 p.m., re- 
 turning from Sorrento the following mornings at 6 a.m. ; passage about 
 
 3 hrs. ; fare 1 fr. ; civil people. 
 
 Those whose time is limited should make little stay at Castellamare , 
 in order to arrive at Sorrento early enough for an excursion to the Deserto 
 or other interesting point in the environs. The night should be spent at 
 Sorrento, and Capri visited next day ; Naples may then be regained on the 
 third , or , if necessary , on the evening of the second day. — This route 
 may also be combined with the following, in which case it is better to 
 begin with the latter (p. 163). The steamboat trip across the Bay of 
 Naples is so beautiful in fine weather that it should be made once at 
 least. 
 
 The Castellamare train follows the main line to Salerno and 
 Baragiano as far as Torre delV Annunziata (see R. 7) , where our 
 line diverges to the right. Skirting the coast, it crosses the Sarno 
 (on the right is the rocky islet of Revigliano , with an old castle) ; 
 and in 12 min. it reaches the Castellamare station at the N. end 
 of the town. 
 
 Castellamare. — • Hotels. "Hotel Royal, in the main street, near 
 the station, D. 5, R. 3, A. 1, B. IV4 fr. ; Hotel de la Paix, on the quay, 
 new; Antica Stabia, also on the quay, second class. Beautifully situated 
 above the town, on the road to Quisisana, commanding a charming view 
 of Vesuvius and the bay: "Hotel Quisisana, on the left; a little beyond 
 it, Gran Brettagna, on the right. Pension at all these hotels, 7-12 fr. — 
 "Pension Anglaise , Mme. Baker, Villa Belvedere , pens. 7-9 fr. per day, 
 40-60 fr. per week, 200 fr. per month; "Pension Weiss, Villa Cotticelli, 
 7-8 fr. ; both commanding fine views. 
 
 Caffb delV Europa and Trattoria del Commercio (with a few rooms; pen- 
 sion), both in the Largo Principe Umberto, which opens towards the sea, 
 and where a band plays in the evening 1-3 times a week according to 
 the season. 
 
 Carriages (comp. p. xviii). Drive in the town with one horse V2 fr-, 
 with two or three horses 1 fr. — Outside the town, not exceeding 2 kilo- 
 metres (D/4 M.): first hour with one horse D/2 fr., with two or three 
 horses 2 l /2 fr. ; each additional half-hour 60 c. or 1 fr. — To Quisisana or 
 Puzzano P/2 or 3 fr. ; there and back with halt of 2 hrs. 2 l /2 or 5 fr. ; to 
 Vico Equense D/4 or 2>/2 fr. ; to Meta 2 l /2 or 4y 4 fr. ; to Sorrento 3 or 
 6 fr. (after 3 p.m. 4 or 8 fr.); to Torre Annunziata 2 or 3 l /-2 fr. ; to Pom- 
 peii 2 or 372'fr. ; to Naples (before 3 p.m.) 8 or 15 fr. — In all these last 
 cases the traveller may keep the carriage about 3 hrs., after which the 
 return-fare is the same as for the single journey. Bargaining, however, is 
 necessary. — Carriages ivith one donkey are still cheaper conveyances, but 
 are unsuitable for more than one person; if used for two persons the 
 driver has to walk or run by the side of the vehicle. 
 
 Donkeys , very good, generally 1 fr. per hour, or 4-5 fr. per day. 
 
 Boat to Capri in about 5 hours, 30 fr. 
 
 Castellamare , a busy trading and fishing town with 27,700 
 inhab., lies in the E. angle of the Bay of Naples, at the beginning 
 of the peninsula of Sorrento, at the base and on the slope of a spur 
 of Monte S. Angelo . It occupies the site of the ancient Stabiae , 
 which was destroyed in A.D. 79, at the same time as Pompeii, and 
 
CuLco d0 l 
 
 he Gradel 
 
 CJiilome ti 
 
 dJErcole 
 
 tfn s s ixlui) i'f> l 
 
 S.Fr^ . 
 Fort ?* gPv*L, 
 f^JLXassaP^^ 
 
 Castelr 4^^ 
 
 LiGaJl 
 
 SeogTapi.. Anjrtalt "van. "Wagner * Detes, Leljicigi 
 

 mmM 
 
 Abbreviazioni 1 K“ Ktxrinct , M t& Monts’ , l ,r \° Fiajio , T^ Pimtx 
 Ji. =Hzo, S. M. Sanlu Maria, Tf'= Torre, Ff' = TUJLw, V? = Valiant . 
 
 Lithogr. T. Busci * TTeicfcer . 
 

 
to Sorrento. 
 
 CASTELLAMARE. 
 
 10. Route. 151 
 
 thence derives its official name of Castellamare di Stabia. It was 
 here that the elder Pliny perished while observing the eruption 
 (p. 118). Excavations of the ruins of Stabiae, which lay to the 
 left, by the entrance to the town, towards the heights, have not 
 been undertaken since 1745. 
 
 The town extends along the coast for upwards of 1 M., consist- 
 ing of one main street and a second running parallel with it. About 
 y 3 M. from the station we reach the Largo Principe Umberto , a 
 small piazza embellished with flower-beds and trees , where the 
 Caffe Europa is situated. Farther on we come to the animated 
 Harbour , which is protected by a molo. Adjoining it is an Arsenal 
 with a dockyard. — On the hill to the S. of the town are the ruins 
 of the Castle to which the town owes its name. It was built in the 
 13th cent, by Emp. Frederick II. and strengthened with towers 
 and walls by Charles I. of Anjou. 
 
 Castellamare is a favourite summer resort of the Neapolitans. 
 The attractions are sea-baths , mineral waters (impregnated with 
 sulphur and carbonic acid gas) , beautiful shady walks, and a cool 
 northern aspect. 
 
 Turning to the S. by the Largo Principe Umberto, and ascend- 
 ing the Salita Caporiva (inclining to the right after 5 min.), we 
 pass the Hotel Quisisana and reach a winding road, shaded by fine 
 chestnut- trees higher up, which leads to the royal — 
 
 Villa Quisisana (1 M.). The chateau ( Casino ) occupies the 
 site of a house (‘casa sana’) erected here by Charles II. of Anjou 
 about 1300, which was occupied by King Ladislaus and his sister 
 Johanna II. while the plague raged at Naples. In 1820 Ferdi- 
 nand I. of Bourbon restored the building and gave it its present 
 name (‘one recovers health here*),. Permesso for the chateau and 
 garden, see p. 36 ; but there is little to see except the charming 
 view from the terrace (1 fr. ; gardener */ 2 fr-)* 
 
 The *Bosco di Quisisana , or park belonging to the villa, which 
 is open to the public, affords delightful walks. Ascending from the 
 town, we pass through a gate to the right, opposite the entrance to 
 the ‘R. Villa di Quisisana, turn to the left at the first bifurcation 
 (while the road in a straight direction goes to Puzzano, see below), 
 and then pass behind the garden of the villa , from which there is 
 another entrance to the park. — Above , to the left , rises the 
 Monte Coppola , which may be ascended by beautiful wood-walks, 
 winding upwards and crossing several ravines , and commanding 
 admirable views of the bay and Vesuvius (there and back 2- 
 2i/ 2 hrs. ; donkeys admitted to the park). — The traveller may 
 return from Quisisana to Castellamare by S. Maria a Puzzano , a 
 monastery founded by Gonsalvo da Cordova (y 2 hr. longer; beauti- 
 ful views). 
 
 Excursions may be also be made to (1/2 hr.) Gragnano to the E., 
 where an excellent red wine is produced (osteria without a sign, second 
 house in the village, on the left), and to Lettere ( 3 / 4 hr. farther), beauti- 
 
152 Route 10 . 
 
 META. 
 
 From Naples 
 
 fully situated on the slope of the mountains which were once named 
 Montes Lactarii , with a ruined castle and magnificent prospect. Lastly 
 to the summit of the — 
 
 • Monte Sant’ Angelo, the ancient Gaums, 5000 ft. above the sea- 
 level, the highest point near the bay, which commands a noble pro- 
 spect, stretching from Monte Circello far into Calabria and to the Abruzzi. 
 The mountain is clothed to the summit with wood, chiefly chestnut- 
 trees. Fragments of pumice-stone (rapilli) from eruptions of Vesuvius 
 are occasionally observed. 
 
 The ascent, which should not be attempted without a guide, requires 
 4 hrs. (on donkey-back 3 hrs. $ donkey and guide 5 fr.)^ The guides should 
 be expressly directed to conduct the traveller to the highest peak crowned 
 by the chapel, which commands an uninterrupted panorama. Otherwise 
 they ascend another peak, with extensive deposits of snow, the view from 
 which is partially intercepted by the higher summit. The path leads 
 through the park of Quisisana to the mountain village of Pinion te 
 (0/2 hr.), whence the ascent of the Mte. S. Angelo begins. The traveller 
 should start early, so as to return to Castellamare before dusk. The 
 excursion may also be made from Amalfi or Sorrento. 
 
 From Castellamare to Amalfi by the lesser Monte Sant 1 Angelo, see 
 p. 174. 
 
 The **Roal> from Castellamare to Sorrento (10 M. ; hy 
 carriage in l 1 ^ hr* 5 tariff, p. 150) is one of the most beautiful 
 excursions in this delightful district. We pass below the monastery 
 of S. Maria a Puzzano (p. 151) to the Capo d J Orlando. The three 
 rocks on the coast are called I Tre Fratelli. We next reach (372 M.) 
 Vico Equense [Pension Anylaise, Mme. Dawes), a town with 12,200 
 inhab., situated on a rocky eminence, the ancient Vicus AZquensis. 
 Vico was erected by Charles II. on the ruins of the ancient village, 
 and was frequently visited by him. The Cathedral contains the 
 tomb of the celebrated jurist Gaetano Filangieri (d. 1788). In the 
 Villa Oiusso are several modern works of art. 
 
 Beyond Vico is a deep cutting, crossed by a bridge. On the 
 right we next observe Marina di Seiano , a village with a hand- 
 some campanile, beyond which the road ascends between vineyards 
 and olive plantations on the slope of the Punta di Scutolo. After 
 having rounded this promontory, the road descends towards Meta, 
 and the view changes. Before us stretches the famous Piano di 
 Sorrento, a plain sheltered by the surrounding mountains, and 
 intersected by numerous ravines, remarkable for its salubrity and 
 its luxuriant vegetation. Orange and olive groves, mulberry-trees, 
 pomegranates, figs, and aloes are beautifully intermingled. This 
 has been a favourite retreat of the noble and the wealthy from a 
 very early period. Augustus, M. Agrippa, Antoninus Pius, and 
 others frequently resided here, and at the present day visitors of 
 all nationalities are met with. The space is limited, and the 
 villages are neither large nor handsome, but the district generally 
 is pervaded with an air of peaceful enjoyment. 
 
 Meta ( Hotel de Meta , with garden, new, first-class ; Trattoria 
 della Villa di Sorrento ) is a town of 7400 inhab., possessing two 
 small harbours. The modern church of the Madonna del Lauro, on 
 the high road, occupies the site of a temple of Minerva. (Route to 
 
to Sorrento. 
 
 SORRENTO, 
 
 10. Route. 153 
 
 Camaldoli di Meta, see p. 157.) — The Ponte Maggiore leads across 
 the deep ravine of Meta. We next reach Carotto , a large village, 
 extending in nearly a straight line from the hills on the left to the 
 Marina di Cazzano on the right. Then Pozzopiano , surrounded by 
 beautiful orange gardens, and lastly Sant ’ AgnelLo , ^4 M. from 
 Sorrento (*Albergo della Cocumella , on the quay, with beautiful 
 view, quiet, pension 6-7 fr.). The road then passes the (1.) Villa 
 Quarracino , now Hotel Bellevue (see below), and (r.) the Villa 
 Rubinacci or Rotonda (pension , see below) , traverses the long- 
 suburb, and soon reaches the Piazza of Sorrento. 
 
 Sorrento. — Hotels. La Sirena, between the small and the large 
 Marina, situated on an abrupt rock rising from the sea, belonging to the 
 Fratelli Gargiulo , proprietors of the above mentioned Hotel Bellevue. 
 "Hotel Tramontano , with dependency Croce di Malta , and "Albergo 
 del Tasso, both situated near La Sirena, and belonging to G. Tramontano , 
 much frequented by English travellers ; high charges. "Vittoria, above 
 the small Marina, entered from the market-place, B. l l / 2 , D. 5 fr. ; a little 
 more to the E. of the small Marina, Gran Bretagna (formerly S. Severina ) ; 
 both belonging to the brothers Fiorentino , proprietors of the Hotel de la 
 Ville at Naples, with several dependencies: R. from 2 l /2, pension 9-10 fr. 
 — In the same situation, "Hotel <fc Pension Lorelei (Villa Piccola Sirena ), 
 with dependencies, pens. 7 fr., for stay of more than two days 6 fr. All 
 these hotels, situated in gardens, have private stairs descending to the sea 
 and small bathing-establishments (also warm baths), and command magni- 
 ficent views of the bay. Previous enquiry as to charges had k better be 
 made. A room towards the N. with a balcony and unimpeded view should 
 be obtained if possible. — Then, above the town, on the side of the gorge, 
 Hotel d'Angleterre, D. 4, pens. 7-10 fr., well spoken of. — To the E. of 
 the town, "Pension Allemande (Villa Rubinacci , see above), 6-8 fr. per 
 day, also for occasional travellers ; Alb. della Cocumella, see above. — 
 The locandas of the E. suburb are unpretending: "Villa Attanasio, 
 moderate; adjacent, Rosa Magra, R. l l /2 fr. (rooms only at these). — 
 Whole villas and furnished apartments may also be procured for a prolonged 
 stay. (Information at the larger hotels.) 
 
 Trattoria della Villa di Sorrento , in the E. suburb, on the road to 
 Meta, unpretending. — Caffb Europa , in the Piazza. In the Piazza is also 
 the Circolo di Sorrento, a club with reading-room, etc., to which strangers 
 are admitted gratis for a week (tickets at the hotels), per month 5 fr. 
 
 Sea-Baths on the Piccola Marina, 3 /4 M. distant, V 2 fr* — Physician, 
 Dr. L. Galano (enquire at the Farmacia Griff a, Corso Duomo). 
 
 Boats, Carriages, and Donkeys may be hired at the hotels at fixed 
 charges, but these rates may generally be reduced by treating directly 
 with the boatmen and drivers. Fees extra. Boats (mostly at the Piccola 
 Marina) l-D /2 fr. per hour; to Capri with 2 rowers 6-8, 3-4 rowers 12, 5-8 
 rowers 16 fr. ; to Castellamare about the same. Donkeys and carriages in 
 the piazza: donkey generally 1 fr. per hour; for excursions of 2-3 hrs. 
 
 2- 2*/2 fr., and trifling fee to attendant; to Scaricatojo (p. 174) 2-3 fr. and 
 fee. Carriage to Massa and back, with one horse 2-3, with two horses 
 
 3- 4 fr. ; to Castellamare, p. 150. 
 
 Silk Wares (in imitation of the Roman), Inlaid Wood (‘tarsia 1 ), and 
 Wood Carving, are good and cheap at Sorrento. The tarsia work has 
 lately become one of the staple products of the place, employing no fewer 
 than 500 workmen. The quantity exported is valued at 150,000 fr. per 
 annum. The chief depots of these articles, which are well adapted for 
 souvenirs and presents, are kept by Luigi Gargiulo, in the Corso Princ. 
 Umberto; Michel Grandville , Strada del Tasso; Gius. Gargiulo & Co., in 
 the same street. The oldest firm of silk-mercers is Casola, in the Piazza; 
 other good houses are the Fratelli Miccio , Strada del Tasso, Maresca , etc. 
 Sorrento , the ancient Surrentum, a small town with 7500 inhab., 
 
154 Route 10. 
 
 •SORRENTO. 
 
 History. 
 
 and the residence of a bishop , lies amid luxuriant lemon and 
 orange-gardens on rocks rising precipitously from the sea, and is 
 enclosed on the other sides hy deep ravines which popular super- 
 stition has peopled with dwarfs (monacelli). The E. ravine, hy 
 which the traveller arriving from Meta crosses from the suburb to 
 the Piazza, terminates in the Piccola Marina , or small harbour. 
 The W. ravine opens into the Marina Grande , or large harbour, 
 where there are numerous fishing-boats and a quay for larger ves- 
 sels. The walls and towers of Sorrento, which during the middle 
 ages carried on a considerable trade, have long since fallen to decay; 
 and nothing remains of the Roman Surrentum except a few frag- 
 ments and substructions, which have been dignified with such 
 names as the ‘Temple of Neptune’, ‘Amphitheatre’, and ‘Villa 
 of Pollius Felix’. At the entrance to the cathedral (about 5 min. 
 walk from the market-place, by a chapel on the left) are several 
 ancient bas-reliefs and inscriptions. 
 
 Torquato Tasso , the poet (b. 1544, d. at Rome 1595) was a 
 native of Sorrento. The house in which he was born, together with 
 the rock on which it stood, has been swallowed up by the encroach- 
 ing sea; its ruins are still visible beneath the clear azure flood 
 below the Albergo del Tasso. The residence of his attached sister 
 Cornelia, however, is still pointed out (Pal. Sersale , Strada S. 
 Nicola) , where , after a glorious but chequered career, he was 
 received by her, disguised as a shepherd, in 1592. A marble statue 
 of the poet has recently been erected in the Piazza. 
 
 Sorrento is admirably adapted for a summer residence on 
 account of its cool northern aspect. It is chiefly frequented during 
 the bathing -season. Visitors generally bathe in the morning, 
 devote the hot part of the day to the ‘dolce- far- niente’, make 
 short excursions in the beautiful environs late in the afternoon, and 
 after sunset lounge in the Piazza. 
 
 As most of the neighbouring roads run between high garden 
 walls, and are very dusty in summer, there is a great lack of walks. 
 The most popular is the Massa Road (see below), which is frequent- 
 ed in the evening by numerous carriages, riders, and walkers. 
 The traveller is also recommended to visit some of the villas, most 
 of which command beautiful views: thus, Villa Correale or La 
 Rota , Villa Majo , and Villa Massa , all on the coast, to the N.E. 
 of the town. (Application is made to the porters, fr. ; many of 
 the villas are to let.) 
 
 Excursions by Boat are very pleasant. Thus (there and back in 
 li/2-2 hrs., with one rower 2fr.) to Capo di Sorrento , at the W. end 
 of the bay, opposite the Punta di Scutolo (p. 142) to the S.W., 
 passing between cliffs where remains of Roman masonry, baths, 
 and a so-called temple of Hercules are visible. The traveller should 
 npt omit to row into the large ancient piscina , now called Bagno 
 della Regina Giovanna. A trip by boat to Meta (p. 152), where 
 
Road to Massa* 
 
 SORRENTO. 
 
 10. Route. 155 
 
 there are several fine grottoes in the lofty cliffs of the coast ( il Pe- 
 coriello , la Piccola Azzurra , etc.), may be made in the same 
 time and at the same cost. 
 
 The **Roal> to Massa (3 l / 4 M.), like that from ^astellainare, 
 of which it is a continuation, commands a series of beafitiful views. 
 A few hundred yards beyond the last houses of Sorrento it crosses 
 the ravine of La Conca by a bridge. To the left, y 4 M. farther, 
 the ‘Strada Capodimonte’ ascends to the left (to the Deserto , see 
 p. 156). The road skirts the base of the Capodimonte , which has 
 for ages been a famous point of view, and commands retrospec- 
 tively nearly the same prospect. It then ascends the Capo di Sor- 
 rento , where the Villa Correale is situated (to let). About t 2 1 / 4 M. 
 from Sorrento we reach Villazzano , a group of houses at the foot of 
 the telegraph hill (p. 156), which the road makes a bend to avoid. 
 A magnificent view towards Capri is now suddenly disclosed. On 
 the right is the rocky islet of Lo Vervece. About 1 M. farther we 
 reach the town of Massa Lubrense (a cafe at the entrance), with 
 8500 inhab., overshadowed by the castle of S. Maria. On the coast 
 are the remains of a Roman aqueduct and other antiquities. The 
 church of S. Francesco is said to occupy the site of a temple of 
 Juno. On 15th Aug. a festival which attracts the inhabitants of 
 the whole neighbourhood is celebrated here annually. 
 
 From Massa we may proceed in 3 /4 hr. by S. Maria to the village of 
 Termini , to which a very beautiful road also leads from Sorrento past the 
 suppressed monastery of S. Francesco di Paola (admirable views). Ter- 
 mini lies at the foot of the Monte 8. Costanzo , the highest point of the 
 outer part of the peninsula (a fine point of view ; ascent somewhat fatiguing ; 
 a hermit at the top). Beyond Termini the road gradually descends to the 
 Punta di Campanella, the extremity of the peninsula, l 3 /4 hr. from Massa. 
 This was the ancient Cape of Minerva , so named after a temple which 
 is said to have been erected here by Ulysses in honour of that goddess. 
 The promontory owes its modern name to the bells of one of the watch- 
 towers erected along the coast by Charles V. as a protection against 
 pirates. So lately as the beginning of the 19th cent, numerous inhabitants 
 of the Italian coast were carried oft’ as slaves by barbarian marauders. 
 From this sequestered spot, which is crowned with a Lighthouse and 
 overgrown with olives and myrtles, we enjoy a magnificent distant view 
 of the sea, the coast, and the island of Capri, 3 M. distant. Beyond 
 the lighthouse are considerable remains of a Roman villa. (Donkey 
 from Massa to the Punta Campanella, the summit of the Mte. S. Costanzo, 
 and back by Termini about 5 fr. — Those who make the excursion from 
 Sorrento to the Punta Campanella should allow for it 7-8 hrs. in all.) 
 
 From Termini the traveller may descend to the S. to Nerano and the 
 Marina del Cantone , whence the ruins of Crapolla, 2 M. to the E., may 
 be visited by boat. On this trip we obtain a beautiful view of the three 
 Islands of the Sirens , also called I Galli , fortified in the middle ages, 
 but now deserted. At the landing-place of Crapolla we observe remains 
 of a wall with a fountain in the centre, and traces of an aqueduct; higher 
 up the hill are the ruins of the monastery and early Romanesque basilica 
 of S. Pietro , the eight marble and granite columns of which are probably 
 derived from some ancient temple. The interior of the church shows 
 traces of frescoes. Good walkers may ascend from this point to S. Agata 
 (see below) and return thence to Sorrento. 
 
 The Heights above Sorrento afford many fine points of view, 
 the paths to which are generally steep, narrow, and viewless, and 
 
156 Route in. 
 
 SORRENTO. 
 
 Deserto . 
 
 most conveniently reached on donkey-hack. Walking is, however, 
 not unpleasant in the cool season. 
 
 A very favourite point is the Deserto , l l / 4 -iy 2 hr. from the 
 Piazza of Sorrento. We first follow the Massa road, and then ascend 
 to the left by the Strada Capodimonte (p. 155). Beyond (3 min.) 
 the second bend we take the Strada Priora to the left. Farther on 
 (10 min.) we avoid the Crocevia road to the left and go straight on 
 between garden-walls. In t/ 4 hr. we turn to the left to Priora , 
 which we reach after an ascent of 5-10 min. ; we now passthrough 
 a gateway, cross the Largo Priora, the small piazza in front of the 
 church, to the left, turn to the right opposite the Campanile (and 
 again to the right), and follow the paved path. The red building 
 on the hill before us is the Deserto, */ 2 hr. from Priora. — The 
 *Deserto is a suppressed monastery, in which an establishment for 
 destitute children has recently been fitted up by monks. In return 
 for the refreshments offered to visitors, a contribution to the funds 
 of the institution is expected. The roof of the building commands 
 a charming prospect of both bays , and the island of Capri ; in 
 front of the latter rises the hill of S. Costanzo (p. 155), to the left 
 of which is the solitary little church of 8. Maria della Neve. — 
 From the Deserto we proceed to the E. to the neighbouring vil- 
 lage of S. Agata , the cathedral of which contains a high-altar of 
 inlaid marble. The descent thence to Sorrento through the beautiful 
 chestnut wood of La Tigliana is very steep. 
 
 Another interesting excursion is to the Telegrafo, an optic 
 telegraph on a somewhat steep hill, communicating with Capri, 
 2y 2 M. to the W., and commanding an admirable view. The route 
 to it is the same as to the Deserto as far as where the road to 
 Priora diverges to the left (30 min.). From that point we proceed 
 in a straight direction to (10 min.) a guard-house of the Uffizio 
 Daziario of Massa Lubrense, about 30 paces beyond which we enter 
 the second gate on the right leading through the yard of a cottage 
 (2-3 soldi). In 6 min. more the path leads in a straight direction 
 to the telegraph. — At the foot of the hill lies the * Valle delle 
 Pigne, which derives its name from a number of handsome pines. 
 The view of Capri hence is justly celebrated. Quails are captured 
 here and in other parts of the peninsula of Sorrento, and in the 
 sland of Capri , in large numbers in May, June, September, and 
 October, affording considerable profit to the inhabitants. 
 
 An admirable survey of the Piano di Sorrento is afforded by the 
 ^Piccolo S. Angelo, l*/ 2 hr. to the S.E. of Sorrento. The route 
 ascends from the Piazza of Sorrento along the E. margin of the E. 
 ravine, passing Cesarano and Baranica. At the top is a deserted 
 cottage. From this point over the hill of the Tore di Sorrento to S. 
 Agata (see above) 1-1 */ 2 hr. 
 
 The Conti delle Fontanelle, a chain of hills \ x /i hr. to the E. of Sor- 
 rento, the path to which diverges to the right from the Meta road by the 
 white summer-house of the Villa Cacace between the villages of Pozzo - 
 
Steamboats. 
 
 CAPRI. 
 
 10. Route. 157 
 
 piano and Carotto , command a survey of the bays of Naples and Salerno. 
 Having reached the top of the hill, we proceed to the left by a footpath 
 leading in 1/4 hr. to the Area Naturale , a natural rocky archway on the 
 S. coast, which was partially destroyed in 1841. We may now ascend 
 hence to the *Telegvafo di Marecoccola, the hill to the W., and an admi- 
 rable point of view. 
 
 Above Meta (p. 152) lies the suppressed monastery of * Camaldoli di 
 Meta , now a country-seat of the Marchese Giussi, commanding an excellent 
 view. It is reached in 2 1 /* hrs. from Sorrento: dusty road to Meta 3 ! /4 M. ; 
 ascend to the right to Arbore or Alberi, hr. ; turn to the right beyond 
 the village, and in 20 min. more the yellow building is reached. As the 
 view is finest towards sunset , the excursion should not be made at too 
 early an hour (gardener V 2 -I fr.) 
 
 A fatiguing, but interesting excursion is the ascent of the Vico Alvano 
 (1600 ft.), the path to which also diverges from the Meta road by the 
 above-mentioned Villa Cacace. Is then crosses the heights of the Conti 
 di Geremenna. (From Sorrento, there and back, 6-7 hrs., with guide.) 
 
 We may also walk in 2 hrs. by Meta , Arbore (see above), Fornacelle , 
 and Preazzano to the village of S. Maria a Gastello , where from a pro- 
 jecting rock a view is obtained of Positano , 2000 ft. below , to which a 
 path descends in steps. On 15th Aug. , the occasion of a great festival at 
 Positano (comp. p. 174), many visitors ascend from Sorrento to S. Maria 
 for the sake of seeing the illumination below ; after which , however 
 they have to return in the dark by a bad road. 
 
 Capri. 
 
 Comp. Map , p. 150. 
 
 From Naples to Capri. Steamboat (via Sorrento), see p. 149- It 
 starts from the steps of S. Lucia (p. 35; PI. E, 6 ) at 8 , 8.30, or 9 a. m., 
 but in bad weather does not sail at all. — After touching at Sorrento 
 (l 3 /4 hr.), the steamer proceeds direct to the Blue Grotto. After visiting 
 the latter, the passengers are then conveyed to the Marina of Capri, 
 arriving about 12 or 12.30. The vessel starts again about 3 p.m. and 
 reaches Naples about 6 p.m. — The fares vary according to the compe- 
 tition, but are at present as follows : from Naples to Capri 8 fr., return- 
 tickets (available for one day only) 12 fr. ; from Sorrento to Capri 6 fr. ; 
 embarcation and landing at Naples and at Capri 30c. each person (50 c. 
 usually demanded); boat into the Blue Grotto 1 1 /a fr., paid on board the 
 steamer on returning. — Unless the traveller is much pressed for time, 
 this is a most unsatisfactory mode of visiting beautiful Capri, as, in ad- 
 dition to the Blue Grotto, he will barely have time to visit the Villa of 
 Tiberius. The view from the latter, moreover, is far less attractive in 
 the middle of the day than by evening light. One whole day at least 
 should be devoted to the island, as there are many other beautiful points 
 besides the two just mentioned. 
 
 As the trips of the steamer are neither very regular nor punctual 
 (the weather, number of passengers, etc., often deciding the question), 
 enquiry on this subject should be made at the hotels, or, better still, at 
 the office, Strada Nuova 14. It should also be observed that when 
 the wind is in the E. or N. the Blue Grotto is not accessible — a fact, 
 however, which the captain of the steamer is careful not to mention. On 
 such days, moreover, the roughness of the water is apt to occasion sea- 
 sickness. 
 
 A Market Boat also plies between Naples and Capri , starting in 
 summer on Mon., Wed., and Frid., returning the same day; in winter 
 leaving Naples on Mon. and Frid., returning on the following days. The 
 length of the passage depends of course on the weather (3-4 hrs. ; fare 
 1 fr.). It generally starts from the Porta di Massa, by the Molo Piccolo 
 (PI. F, 5) at Naples, at noon. 
 
 From Sorrento to Capri. Steamboat (see above) , starting from the 
 Piccola Marina. — By Small Boat the passage takes 2-2 V? hrs. (fares, seq 
 
158 Route 10. 
 
 CAPRI 
 
 Hotels. 
 
 p. 153). A four-oared boat for the excursion to Capri and Amalfi costs 
 30-40 fr., the night being spent at Capri. Fine weather is indispensable, 
 but a perfect calm is neither necessary nor desirable. — The cheapest way of 
 reaching Capri from Sorrento is by the Barca Postale of Michele Desiderio, 
 starting from Capri every morning at 6 or 7 o' clock, and returning from 
 the Piccola Marina at Sorrento about noon (fare, with luggage, 2 fr.). 
 
 Order is now tolerably well maintained at the landing-place at Capri, 
 and the begging nuisance has greatly abated. One soldo is sufficient 
 payment for assistance rendered to passengers on landing. 
 
 Disposition of Time. For steamboat-passengers, see above. Travellers 
 who make the excursion from Sorrento by small boat and desire to return on 
 the same day (which, however, is not advisable) had better first visit the 
 Blue Grotto, then order dinner at one of the inns on the Marina, ascend 
 to Capri and go direct to the Punta Tragara , or the Villa di Tiberio if 
 time and energy permit, and finally return direct to the beach. — Those 
 who spend the night on the island can of course accomplish all this with 
 greater leisure. On the following morning they should then descend (20 
 min.) to the Piccola Marina on the S. side of the island, and take a boat 
 to the Green Grotto (O /2 fr. $ O /2 hr. there and back) ; or, still better, 
 perform the Giro of the whole island by boat (3-4 hrs.). — If a longer 
 stay be made, Anacapri may also be visited, and Monte Solar 0 ascended. 
 The advice in the visitors’ book at Pagano’s hotel should in any case be 
 taken to heart: l Ne quittez pas la grotte d'Azur sans voir Capri!'. 
 
 Hotels in Capri. At the Marina. "Hotel du Louvre ( Stanford ), ad- 
 mirably situated on a height a little to the W. of the landing-place, pen- 
 sion 6-9 fr., with baths (table d’hote on the arrival of the vessel, 4 fr.) ; 
 Hotel de la Grotte Bleue, adjacent; Gran Bretagna, the nearest to 
 the landing-place, D. 3V2-4, Dej. 3, R. 2Q2, B. 3 / 4 , L. 1 / 2 , A. 1 / 2 , pension 
 6-7 fr., well spoken of. — In the Village of Capri. "Albergo Quisisana, 
 on the way to the Certosa (see p. 159), English landlady (widow of Dr. 
 Clark), an excellent house, pension 7 fr. ; *Albergo Pagano ( Vittoria), 
 nearer the Piazza, pension 6 fr. ; the garden contains a handsome palm- 
 tree. "Hotel de France, to the left of the Piazza, higher up, at the 
 foot of the castle to the E., with small garden and dependency, pension 
 6 fr.; "Tension Cavour (conducted by Mme. Lawrence), in the same road, 
 nearer the Piazza, 5-6 fr.; the proprietor, Dr. Fischetti , also provides lodg- 
 ings in several villas. — Wine, Beer, etc., at ! 'Michele's , next door to 
 the Alb. Pagano, moderate prices. 
 
 Donkey from the Marina to the village of Capri H/4, Horse IV 2 fr., 
 in the reverse direction 1 or \ l /\ fr. ; to the Villa di Tiberio and back 
 2 V 2 or 3 fr., and a small fee; per day 5 or 6 fr., and the same for the 
 ascent of the Monte Solaro. — Guides are quite unnecessary unless time 
 is very limited. A boy to show the way may be engaged for several 
 hours for V 2 -I fr. 
 
 Boats (bargaining necessary) about IV 2 fr. per hour ; trip to the Blue 
 Grotto, see p. 161 ; ‘giro’, or tour of the island (p. 162), 6-8 fr. To Sorrento, 
 see p. 153; the hotels Quisisana and Pagano possess in common a very 
 comfortable boat for 8 pers., which is hired for the trip to Sorrento with 
 six rowers for 14 fr. ; boats with four rowers for smallers parties are also 
 provided (8 fr.).' — The Piccola Marina on the S. side of the island, where 
 the Green Grotto is situated, is reached in 20 min. (starting from the Piazza 
 at Capri we diverge after 7 min. to the right from the road to Anacapri 
 by a white house, and immediately turn to the left and pass under the 
 road). Boat hence to the Green Grotto and round the E. end of the 
 island to the Marina about 4 fr. 
 
 Capri, tlie ancient Capreae (‘island of goats’), is a small, moun- 
 tainous island of oblong form. Its picturesque outline forms one 
 of the most charming points in the view of the Bay of Naples. The 
 highest point is the Monte Solaro on the W. side, 1980 ft. above 
 the sea-level; towards the E. huge cliffs, about 900 ft. in height, 
 rise abruptly from the sea. Boats can land safely at two places only. 
 
Village of Capri. 
 
 CAPRI. 
 
 10. Route. 159 
 
 The island contains about 4200 inhab. and two important villages 
 only, those of Capri and Anacapri. The inhabitants, who support 
 themselves chiefly by agriculture and Ashing, still retain some old 
 peculiarities of habits and costume. One of their chief pursuits is 
 coral-flshing, in which many of them are engaged in summer on 
 the African coast. The island yields fruit, oil, and excellent red 
 and white wines in abundance. The indigenous flora comprises 
 800 species. 
 
 The island first came into notice under Augustus, who showed a great 
 partiality for it, and founded palaces, baths, and aqueducts here. Tiberius 
 erected twelve villas, in honour of the twelve gods, in the principal parts 
 of the island, the largest of which was the Villa Jovis (Tacit. Ann. iv. 
 67), after he had surrendered the reins of government to Sejanus and 
 retired hither (A.D. 27). He remained here almost uninterruptedly till 
 his death in 37, even after the fall of Sejanus in 31. Exaggerated accounts 
 are given of the cruelty and profligacy of the emperor, even towards the 
 close of his career. The tranquillity and inaccessibility of the island, as 
 well as the geniality of the climate, were the attractions which induced 
 him to spend so many years in it. Considerable remains of the buildings 
 of Tiberius are still extant. 
 
 In 1803 , during the Napoleonic wars , Capri was captured by the 
 English under Sir Sidney Smith, fortified, and converted into a miniature 
 Gibraltar. Sir Hudson Lowe was afterwards the commandant. In Oct. 
 1808, however, the island was recaptured by the French under Lamarque 
 by a brilliant coup-de-main. 
 
 The Marina Grande , or principal landing-place, where the 
 steamers and most of the small boats land their passengers, is on 
 the N. side of the island, where there are several hotels (p. 158), 
 and a number of fishermen’s cottages. Two paths ascend hence to 
 the village of Capri. The easier leads to the right (W.) and ascends 
 past the hotels in windings (20-25 min.). The shorter, but 
 steeper path to the left (E.) ascends in steps. They both run 
 between garden-walls the greater part of the way, and are far from 
 pleasant in the middle of the day. 
 
 Capri (460 ft.), the capital of the island, with 2400 inhab., 
 lies on the saddle which connects the E. heights of the island (Lo 
 Capo) with the western (Mte. Solaro), and is commanded by two 
 lower hills crowned with dilapidated castles. Nearly in the centre 
 of the village is the small Piazza, to which the paths from the 
 Marina lead, and from which the road to Anacapri starts. To the 
 S. of it (5 min.) is the Certosa , founded in 1371, now a barrack. 
 
 Leaving the Piazza by a vaulted passage to the left ot the flight 
 of steps opposite the campanile, then turning to the right and 
 passing the hotels of Pagano and Quisisana, and turning to the left 
 again (the path straight on leads to the Certosa), we are led by 
 a path which ascends slightly the greater part of the way to the 
 (20 min.) *Punta Tragara, the S.E. promontory. This point com- 
 mands a picturesque view of Capri and the S. coast, with three 
 precipitous cliffs called the Faraglioni. On the summit of the one 
 nearest the land are remains of a Roman tomb. 
 
 The E. promontory, called Lo Capo 3 is supposed to have 
 
160 Route 10. 
 
 CAPRI. 
 
 Villa di Tiberio , 
 
 been the site of the Villa Jovis , to which Tiberius retired for 
 nine months after the fall of Sejanus. This is a beautiful point 
 o£ view ( 3 / 4 hr. from the village of Capri). The path cannot 
 be mistaken. From the Piazza we pass to the left through 
 the archway bearing the sign of the Hotel de France and fol- 
 low the paved track, which soon ascends a little. It then becomes 
 level, and at length skirts the slope to the right. On the right, 
 a few minutes before reaching the last hill, we pass a clean tav- 
 ern called 1 Salto of Tiberio’, after the rock from which, accord- 
 ing to a purely mythical story , the tyrant precipitated his vic- 
 tims. A projecting platform with a railing affords a view of the 
 sea below. 
 
 To the right are the remains of an old Lighthouse (*View). 
 
 After a slight ascent we reach the *Villa di Tiberio (pronounc- 
 ed Timberio by the natives), part of the extensive ruins of which 
 are now used as a cow-stable. They consist of a number of vault- 
 ed chambers and corridors , the uses of which cannot now be as- 
 certained. On the highest point is the small chapel of 8. Maria 
 del Soccorso (1050 ft.), with the cell of a hermit, who for a 
 trifling donation allows the visitor to inscribe his ‘testimonium 
 praesentiae’. This point commands a noble prospect of the island 
 and the blue sea, of the barren Pnnta di Campanella opposite, and 
 the two bays; even Paestum and the Ponza Islands (to the N.W.) 
 are visible in clear weather. 
 
 In returning we take the path which diverges to the left by a house 
 on the road-side, l f\ hr. from the Salto of Tiberio ; we then cross the 
 yard diagonally towards the left, ascend a few steps, and traverse gardens 
 and fields in the same direction. In 1/4 hr. we reach the so-called Val 
 di Mitromania , sometimes called Matrimonio by the islanders , a valley 
 descending eastwards to the sea at the base of the Tuoro Grande or Tele- 
 grafo. To the left in this valley, 8 min. farther, and reached by a path 
 which is rather rough towards the end, rises the : Arco Naturale, a mag- 
 nificent natural archway in the rock, where we obtain a striking view of 
 the imposing and rugged cliffs. A visit to the Grotta di Mitromania , or 
 grotto of Mithras, a shrine of the Persian god of the sun, to which 130 
 steps descend, may be combined with this excursion. 
 
 The ruins on the Tuoro Grande are supposed to belong to the second 
 villa of Tiberius. On the coast are numerous ruins under water; among 
 others, to the S. of Capri, by the Camerelle, is a long series of arches, 
 perhaps belonging to an ancient road. 
 
 From Capri to Anacapri (2 j / 4 M.). A road in long windings 
 hewn in the rock, constructed in 1874, now supersedes the steep 
 and fatiguing flight of 535 steps (to the foot of which 249 more 
 ascended from the Marina) which used to form the chief approach 
 to the higher parts of the island. This road commands beautiful 
 views. Above it rise the ruins of the mediaeval Castello di Bar - 
 barossa , named after the pirate who destroyed it in the 16th cen- 
 tury. At the entrance to Anacapri is the Ristoratore di Barbarossa , 
 a small tavern. The road to the right leads into the village; that 
 to the left to the Monte Solaro. 
 
 Anacapri (880 ft.), the second village in the island, with 
 
Blue Grotto. 
 
 CAPRI. 
 
 10. Route. 161 
 
 1800 inhab., is scattered over the lofty plain which slopes towards 
 the W. On the left side of the street, before the church is reached, 
 is a small Cafe. The tower of the church commands a fine view. 
 There are Roman ruins in this neighbourhood also, particularly at 
 the village of Damecuta, on the N.W. side, where a villa of Ti- 
 berius once stood. 
 
 The * Ascent of Monte Solaro (1 hr.) is recommended to toler- 
 able walkers, as the mountain commands two beautiful and entirely 
 different views, viz. that from the hermitage, and the panorama 
 from the summit. The route is easily found. By the above-named 
 Ristoratore di Barbarossa at the beginning of Anacapri we follow 
 the paved path to the left, and after 60 paces the footpath to the 
 left, which passes the cypress - shaded cemetery. Beyond the 
 cemetery we take the second path diverging to the left, which 
 immediately afterwards turns to the right ; TO paces farther we 
 turn to the left and ascend through a hollow (10 min. from the 
 Ristoratore). On the crest of the hill (}/% hr.) which connects the 
 summits of La Crocella and Monte Solaro we pass through a gate- 
 way, and then follow the bridle-path to the right to the white wall 
 of the * Hermitage (1624 ft ; good wine, for which Pater Anselmo, 
 the hermit, expects a trifling fee), where a projecting platform 
 commands a most picturesque view of the village of Capri and 
 the whole of the beautiful island. After a fatiguing ascent of 
 20 min. more we reach the summit of the *Monte Solaro (1980 ft.), 
 which rises abruptly from the sea, on the S. side of the island, 
 and is crowned by a ruined fort. The view is superb, embracing 
 Naples with the whole of its bay, as well as that of Salerno as far 
 as the ruins of Paestum. Towards the N. the Bay of Gaeta is visible, 
 and towards the W. the group of the Ponza Islands. The spectator 
 also obtains a survey of the chain of the Apennines, bounding the 
 Campanian plain in a wide curve, and culminating in the Monte 
 Yergine (p. 176) near Avellino. Capri itself and the peninsula of 
 Sorrento lie in prominent relief at the spectator’s feet. 
 
 Blue Grotto. — A visit to |the Blue Grotto from the Marina at 
 Capri, where suitable light boats will be found, occupies l 3 /4-2 hrs. The 
 best light is between 10 and 12 o’clock. The authorised fare for the trip 
 (there and back) is P /4 fr. for each person, but almost no boatman will 
 undertake it without an additional fee of 1-2 fr. The skiffs are not allowed 
 to take more than three passengers. If the wind blows strongly from 
 the E. or N. access to the grotto is impossible. 
 
 The Blue Grotto is situated on the N. side of the island, about 
 1 1/4 M. from the landing-place of Capri. The row along the base 
 of the precipitous rocky shore is exceedingly beautiful. The sea 
 swarms with gaily coloured sea-stars and jelly-fish, many of which 
 float on the surface of the water. In i/ 4 hr. we reach the ruins of 
 the Baths of Tiberius , where a fragment of an ancient wall and 
 part of a column in the water are to be seen, and in i/ 2 ^ r - more 
 we arrive at the entrance of the **Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. H 
 
162 Route 10 . 
 
 CAPRI. 
 
 which is scarcely 3 ft. in height. Visitors must lie down in the 
 boat on entering. In the interior the roof rises to a height of 41 ft.; 
 the water is 8 fathoms deep. Length of the grotto 175 ft., great- 
 est width 100 ft. The effect of the blue refraction of the light on 
 every object is indescribable, and at first completely dazzles the 
 eye. Objects in the water assume a beautiful silvery appearance. 
 One of the boatmen usually offers to bathe in order to show this 
 effect, and Is sufficiently rewarded with 1 fr., although he generally 
 makes the exorbitant demand of 2-3 fr. Near the middle of the 
 grotto, to the right, is a kind of landing-place, leading to a passage 
 with broken steps, but closed at the upper end, once probably an 
 approach from the land to the grotto, which was perhaps connected 
 with the villa of Tiberius at Damecuta. The grotto, which was 
 known to the ancients, fell into oblivion in the middle ages, but 
 since 1822, when it was re-discovered by fishermen, it has justly 
 been a favourite attraction. 
 
 Anacapri is reached by a tolerable path, beginning near the Blue 
 Grotto , which before the construction of the new road formed one of 
 the chief routes between that village and the Marina of Capri. 
 
 The Blue Grotto is the most celebrated of the caverns with 
 which the rocky shores of Capri abound, but some of the others 
 are also well worth visiting. The Giro, or *Voyage round the 
 Island, occupies 3-4 hrs. (boats see p. 158). Steering from the 
 Marina towards the E., we first reach the Grotta delle Stalattite , 
 with its stalactite formations. We then round the promontory of 
 Lo Capo, and visit the Grotta Bianca , named like the others from 
 its predominating colour. The most striking part of the trip is at 
 the Faraglioni (p. 159), which rise majestically from the water. 
 The central cliff is undermined by an imposing archway , through 
 which the boat passes, but not visible from the land. We next 
 pass the Piccola Marina (p. 158) and in 25 min. more reach the 
 Grotta Verde , at the base of the Monte Solaro, a cavern of a beauti- 
 ful emerald-green colour, and the most interesting after the Blue 
 Grotto (best light about noon). The voyage hence round Ana- 
 capri to the Blue Grotto is less attractive, but this cavern may 
 now be visited as an appropriate termination to the excursion 
 (in which case a skiff for the grotto should be previously ordered 
 to meet the- traveller). Lastly we pass the lighthouse and sev- 
 eral fortifications dating from the English occupation of 1808. 
 
 11. From Naples to Salerno, Psestum, and Amalfi. 
 
 Compare Map , p. 166 . 
 
 The Bay of Salerno cannot indeed compete with the Bay of Naples ; 
 towards the S. its shores are flat and monotonous ; but the N. side, where 
 the mountains of the Sorrentine peninsula rise abruptly some thousands 
 of feet from the sea, is replete with beauty and grandeur. Here are sit- 
 uated the towns of Salerno and Amalfi , conspicuous in the pages of 
 mediaeval history, and still containing a few monuments of their former 
 greatness. Farther S., in a barren, desolate situation, are the temples of 
 
PAGANI. 
 
 11. Route. 163 
 
 Paestum , usually the extreme point of the Italian peninsula visited by 
 northern travellers. All these recal the golden period of Greek history 
 and art more forcibly than any other localities in Italy. 
 
 This route may conveniently be combined with the preceding (p. 150) 
 as follows : First Day : La Cava and Salerno. Second Day : Paestum. 
 Third Day : Amalfi. Fourth Day : By boat to Positano or Scaricatojo, 
 and across the hills to Sorrento (or, better, by boat direct to Capri, and 
 next day to Sorrento). Fifth Day : By the Barca Postale at noon to Capri. 
 Sixth Day: Back to Naples by steamer. The passage across the moun- 
 tains to Sorrento , as well as the excursion to Psestum , were formerly 
 not unattended with danger from brigands, but these routes are now con- 
 sidered safe. 
 
 Railway from Naples to Salerno , 34 M., in hrs. ; fares 6 fr. 15, 
 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 45 c. (Vietri is the station for Amalfi) *, to Eboli , 50 M., in 
 3V4-3V2 brs. ; fares 9 fr. 5, 6 fr. 35, 3 fr. 65 c. 
 
 From Naples to Pompeii , 15 M., see R. 7. The train, after 
 quitting the Bay of Naples, traverses the fertile plain of the 
 Sarno. Cotton and tobacco are extensively cultivated here. 17 M. 
 Scafati. The festival of the Madonna del Bagno takes place here 
 on 15th Aug. (see p. 29). 
 
 19*/ 2 M. Angri , near which Teias, the last king of the Goths, 
 was defeated by Narses in 523, after having descended from 
 Lettere on Monte Sant’ Angelo to the plain. The district gradually 
 becomes more mountainous, and the scenery is picturesque the 
 whole way. 
 
 21 M. Pagani , with 12,600 inhabitants. In the church of 
 S. Michele, under the altar of a chapel to the left of the choir, 
 are preserved under glass the relics of Alphonso de’ Liguori, born 
 at Naples in 1696, bishop of S. Agata in 1762, and founder of 
 the order of the Redemptorists , who died at Pagani in 1787, 
 and was canonised by Gregory XYI. in 1839. The place contains 
 nothing else to detain us. From Pagani to Amalfi, see p. 170. 
 
 22y 2 M. Nocera de ’ Pagani , a town of some importance but no 
 great interest, near the ancient Nuceria Alfaterna , where Hugo de’ 
 Pagani, founder of the order of the Templars, and the painter Fran- 
 cesco Solimena were born, and where Paulus Jovius, the historian, 
 was bishop. To the left of the line, above the extensive Capuchin 
 monastery, rise the ruins of the ancient Gastello in Parco , the 
 scene of the death of Sibylla, widow of King Manfred, and her 
 youthful son after the battle of Benevento (1266). At the close 
 of the 14th cent, the castle was one of the principal strongholds 
 of the house of Anjou. Fine view from the summit. 
 
 On the right, shortly before the train reaches the small village 
 of (25 M.) S. Clemente , we observe the ancient baptismal church of 
 *8. Maria Maggiore , similar to S. Stefano in Rome. The basin in 
 the centre is surrounded by eight granite columns, enclosed by 
 a circular passage with sixteen pairs of handsome columns of pavo- 
 nazetto with rich capitals , all antique. The walls are decorated 
 with frescoes of the 14th century. 
 
 Beyond S. Clemente the line ascends considerably. On emerg- 
 ing from a cutting the train reaches — 
 
 11 * 
 
164 Route 11. 
 
 CORPO DI CAVA. 
 
 From Naples 
 
 28M. La Cava ( *Albergo di Londra , well -managed and 
 moderate ; Hotel Gran Brettagna ; Hotel Vittoria ; * Pension Suisse , 
 5 fr. per day ; good furnished lodgings) , situated in a charming 
 valley, a favourite summer and autumn resort, and a good centre 
 for excursions to Amalfi, Paestum, Pompeii, etc. (carr. according 
 to tariff). The town consists of a long street with arcades , as at 
 Bologna. The main street leads from the station to the left to the 
 Piazza, where a church and a large fountain are situated. Pop. 
 of the ‘commune’ 21,000. 
 
 *Excursion to Corpo di Cava, P /4 hr- to the S.W., situated on a 
 wooded height, very pleasant, especially on a summer afternoon (donkey 
 1V2-2 fr., there and hack 2-3 fr.^ carriages may also he hired). Leaving 
 the Piazza we ascend the road to the left by the church. After 5 min., 
 when the road turns to the right round the public garden, we ascend by 
 the shorter path to the left by a church, and farther on between walls, past 
 the red-painted tobacco manufactory, to S. Giuseppe , a church with a few 
 houses. Here we again quit the road, which goes to the right, and follow the 
 path to the left. It descends, crosses a ravine (beyond the bridge a small 
 church to the left), and again gradually ascends, commanding a view of the 
 village to the right. For a time the path is enclosed by walls, but a view is 
 soon obtained of the valley of La Cava to the left, and, higher up, of the Bay 
 of Salerno. In V 2 hr. (from S. Giuseppe) we arrive at the church of Pietra 
 Santa (so called from a rock in front of the high altar , on which the pope 
 sat in 1816), whence a fine view is obtained of the mountain slopes of Cava, 
 studded with numerous white houses , and the Bay of Salerno to the 
 right. In the narrow valley about twenty mills are propelled by the 
 brook. The slender round towers on the hills about Cava are erected for 
 the capture of wild pigeons in October. Beyond Pietra Santa we skirt the 
 wood for 8 min. and reach the high road , which soon afterwards crosses 
 the viaduct to Corpo di Cava. Here the road divides, leading to the village 
 to the right, and to the monastery in 5 min. towards the left. 
 
 The village of Corpo di Cava (* Michele Scapolatiello and Ferdinando Adi- 
 nolfi , both rustic) stands on the rock against which the monastery is built, 
 above a beautiful narrow valley with several mills. The air is pure and the 
 situation beautiful, so that travellers often make a prolonged stay here. 
 
 The famous Benedictine abbey of *La Trinita della Cava , founded in 
 1025 by Waimar III. , a Lombard prince of Salerno , is now condemned 
 to dissolution , but still contains a few monks. The Church (with two 
 ancient sarcophagi at the entrance) contains the tombs of S. Alferius, the 
 first abbot, of Queen Sibylla, wife of Roger, who died at Salerno, and 
 of several anti-popes, among whom was Gregory VIII. The organ is one 
 of the best in Italy. — The Archives of the monastery (shown in the 
 forenoon only) are of great value, and contain a number of important 
 documents on parchment in uninterrupted succession ; the catalogue com- 
 prises 8 vols. Among the valuable MSS. are the Codex Legum Longo- 
 bardorum of 1004, a prayer-book with miniatures of the school of Fra 
 Angelico da Fiesole, the Latin Biblia Vulgata of the 7th cent., etc. The 
 small Pinacoteca , or picture-gallery, contains two fine altar-pieces of the 
 early Umbrian school (Resurrection and Adoration of the Magi), revealing 
 the influence of Raphael. 
 
 The train now traverses a beautiful district, and soon affords 
 a view of the Bay of Salerno; in 10 min. it reaches — 
 
 30y 2 M. Vietri, charmingly situated, with several villas. Pop. 
 8600. Above the town a promenade, commanding beautiful views, 
 has lately been constructed. 
 
 Passengers may alight here and take a carriage (drive of V 2 hr.) down 
 to Salerno (2 fr. , single seat */ 2 fr.). The road descends, commanding a 
 view of the sea, and aftords a pleasant walk. High above, along the rocks 
 
to Salerno. 
 
 SALERNO. 
 
 11. Route. 165 
 
 of Monte Liberatore to the left, runs the railway. Carriage to Amalfi 
 (p. 170) less expensive here than at Salerno (a drive of 2-2V2 hrs. } with 
 one horse 4, with two 6fr., and fee of 1 fr.). 
 
 The railway, supported by galleries, and passing through four 
 tunnels , the last of which penetrates the castle-hill , descends 
 rapidly hence to Salerno. 
 
 34 M. Salerno. — The Railway Station lies at the E. end of the 
 town, a considerable way from the principal hotels. 
 
 Hotels. :;: H6tel Vittoria, at the entrance to the town from Vietri, 
 on the left, the farthest from the station, R. 3, B. l l / 2 , D. 5, L. and A. 
 2 fr., pension according to arrangement} "Hotel d’Angleterre , on the 
 Marina } both these houses command a fine view. — Albergo Americano 
 and Albergo di Pacella, also on the Marina, unpretending (charges ac- 
 cording to bargain). 
 
 Cafes. Several on the quay, now the Corso Garibaldi. 
 
 Sea-Baths near the Marina, similar to those at Naples (p. 26). 
 
 Carriages. From the railway to the town with one horse 50 c., with 
 two horses 1 fr. } at night 70 c. or H /2 fr. •, one hour 1 or 2 fr., at night 
 D /2 or 2 V 2 fr. — For drives in the neighbourhood a previous agreement 
 should always be made, gratuity included, although even in this case 
 1-2 fr. above the fare is always expected. The charges made at the hotels 
 are as follows (but the carriage-owners take less when treated with 
 directly): To Paestum with two horses 20-25 fr. } with three horses, for 
 4-5 persons, 25-30 fr., and a fee of about 2 fr. } with one horse to Amalfi 
 (p. 170) 5-6, with two horses 8-10 fr. — Single travellers may avail them- 
 selves of one of the swift but uncomfortable corricoli (two-wheeled, rustic 
 vehicles } driver stands behind the passenger), but a stipulation should be 
 made that no second passenger be taken up by the way} to Amalfi 
 (tutto compreso), according to circumstances 2V2-4 fr. 
 
 Rowing or Sailing Boat (according to bargain) 1-1 fr. per hour. Boat 
 to Paestum 20-25, to Amalfi 8-10 fr., according to the number of rowers. 
 
 Popular Festival on the eve and day of St. Matthew, 20th-21st Sept., 
 with fireworks and illumination which are best seen from a boat (4-5 fr.). 
 
 Salerno , the ancient Salernum , delightfully situated at the 
 N. extremity of the bay, and bounded on the E. by fertile 
 plains, is the seat of the local government and of an archbishop, 
 and the chief residence of the numerous local aristocracy (pop., 
 with the adjoining villages, 30,000). The old town, rising on the 
 slope of the so-called Apennine, with narrow and irregular streets, 
 recals the 9th and 10th centuries / when the Lombards occupied 
 it, the 11th cent, when it belonged to the Normans, and lastly 
 the period when the houses of Hohenstaufen and Anjou were 
 masters of the place , and when Salerno enjoyed the reputation 
 of being the greatest medical school in Europe. 
 
 The *Marina , or quay, 1 1/2 M. in length, now called the Corso 
 Garibaldi , affords a beautiful walk, especially on summer evenings. 
 The once excellent harbour is now choked with sand. At the W. 
 end of the Marina is a large new Theatre , with some flower-beds 
 adjacent. Nearer the E. end of the Marina stands the monument 
 of Carlo Pisacana , Duke of S. Giovanni, ‘precursore di Garibaldi’, 
 a Genoese , who participated in the attempts to revolutionise Italy 
 in 1857, landed in Calabria , and perished while attempting to 
 escape. (Giovanni Nicotera, a member of the Italian administration 
 in 1876-77, was wounded and taken prisoner here on the same 
 
166 Route 11, 
 
 SALERNO. 
 
 From Naples 
 
 occasion.) The large building between the two sentry-boxes, about 
 100 paces farther, is the Prefettura , past which a narrow street 
 to the left leads to the — 
 
 *Cattedkale S. Matteo, erected in 1084 by Robert Guiscard, 
 and adorned with works of art from Paestum. The restoration of 
 1768 has deprived the edifice of much of its simple grandeur, 
 but it still merits a visit. The steps ascend to an atrium, sur- 
 rounded by twenty-eight antique columns. In the centre formerly 
 stood a granite basin which is now in the Villa Reale at Naples. 
 Along the walls are ranged fourteen ancient Sarcophagi , which 
 were used by the Normans and their successors as Christian burying- 
 places. The bronze doors , executed at Constantinople, were pre- 
 sented by Landolfo Butromile in 1099. 
 
 The nave contains two ambos or reading-desks , and an archiepiscopal 
 throne, richly decorated with mosaic by Giovanni of Procida. On the right are 
 two antique sarcophagi with Bacchanalian representations, now used as 
 burial-places for archbishops. The * Crypt beneath, richly decorated with 
 marble and mosaics, is said to contain the remains of the Evangelist St. Mat- 
 thew, brought here from the East in 930. In theN. aisle is the : Tomb of Mar- 
 garet of Anjou, wife of Charles of Durazzo and mother of Ladislaus and Jo- 
 hanna II., by Baboccio da Piperino , with the painting almost intact ; then 
 the tombs of Sigelgaita, second wife of Robert Guiscard, of their son 
 Roger Bursa, and of William, son of the latter, with whom the direct 
 line of the Norman dukes became extinct. — The chapel to the right by 
 the high altar contains the tomb of Hildebrand, afterwards Pope Gregory 
 VII., who died here on 25th May, 1085, after he had been banished from 
 Rome by Henry IV. The monument was restored in 1578 by Archbishop 
 Colonna, and furnished with an inscription. The monument of Arch- 
 bishop Carafa is adorned with a relief from Psestum : Rape of Proserpine. 
 In front of a side-altar is the stump of a column, on which three saints 
 are said to have been beheaded. The Cappella del Sacramento contains 
 a Pieta by Andrea da Salerno , the composition of which is open to 
 criticism. The choir contains a pavement and balustrade of ancient 
 mosaic and two columns of verde antico. On the altar in the Sacristy 
 (in the N. transept) : "Scenes from the Old and New Testament, on numer- 
 ous carved ivory tablets, dating from 1200. 
 
 In S. Lorenzo some frescoes recently discovered under the 
 whitewash are also ascribed to Andrea (Sabbatini) of Salerno . 
 Authentic works by this master, the most eminent Renaissance 
 painter in S. Italy, may be seen in the churches of S. Giorgio 
 (Madonna with saints and donors, dated 1523 ; 2nd altar on the 
 right) and S. Agostino (Madonna with two saints, 2nd altar to the 
 left; the SS. Augustine and Paul at the sides of the high-altar 
 are school- pieces). Sabbatini’s style reflects the influence of 
 Raphael. 
 
 On the hill (900 ft.) lie the ruins of the ancient Castle of the 
 Lombard princes, which was taken by Robert Guiscard after a siege 
 of eight months. The view repays the ascent. (A little beyond the 
 cathedral we turn to the right; farther up, the path becomes steep; 
 at the top, 3 /4 hr., is a cottage; fee of a few soldi.) 
 
 The train as it proceeds affords a charming view of the bay to 
 the right, and of the mountains to the left. 39 M. Pontecagnano ; 
 
;C- 
 
 T-Salicerca. 
 
 Tt'dLBcu 
 
 Corpo dLGua 
 
 T^d'AmaZfi 
 
 Yapo di Conca 
 
d-ilometTi. 
 
 AVbreviazionL: C? Casa, M^jUarite, T.-PujOcu, P^Pixzo, 
 SrSajitcv, Tf Torre , Y.=VaUo7ie . 
 
 (k>ogT-oLpJu .Anstalt von Wagner & Debes. Leipzig. 
 
to Pee stum. 
 
 PA5STUM. 
 
 1 1 . Route . 1 67 
 
 44 M. Bellizzi; 45 y 2 M. Battipaglia , whence two great routes di- 
 verge , one to Calabria ( R. 20) , and the other, descending and 
 skirting the coast, to Paestum (see below). 
 
 491/2 M. Eboli (. Albergo del Vozzo , on the road, about 200 paces 
 from the town, tolerable, bargaining necessary), a town with 8900 
 inhab., situated on the hill-side, with an old chateau of the Prince 
 of Angri, enjoys a fine view of the sea, the oak-forest of Persano, 
 the towns at the foot of Monte Alburno, the temples of Paestum, 
 and the valley of the Sele, the ancient Silarus. The sacristy of 
 S, Francesco contains a large Madonna by Andrea da Salerno. 
 From Eboli to Paestum, see below. — * Continuation of the railway, 
 see R. 19. 
 
 Paestum. 
 
 An excursion to Paestum is most conveniently made from Salerno, 
 where the previous night should he spent. Distance 26 M., a drive of 4 lirs. 
 (carriages, see p. 165). Most travellers, however, take the early train to 
 Battipaglia (12 l j-z M., in 41 min. • fares 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 50, 85 c. ; return- 
 tickets 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 65 c.), to which they send a carriage from Salerno to 
 await their arrival. This is, however, scarcely necessary if the early train 
 from Naples he used, as carriages will then he found waiting at Batti- 
 paglia (two-horse 15-18 fr., corricolo for one, or at most two persons, 
 8-10 fr. ; a stipulation should he made that the driver admit no other 
 passenger). The drive thence to Paestum takes little more than 2 hrs. 
 Refreshments (which the landlords provide at 3 fr. each person, with 
 wine) should be taken from Salerno, as the osteria at Paestum is ex- 
 tremely poor, and the drinking-water bad. A long day is necessary for 
 this excursion, as even those who travel by train to and from Battipaglia 
 take 6 hrs. for the journey alone $ and 4-5 hrs. should he allowed for the 
 stay at Paestum. The hot summer months are unfavourable for the excur- 
 sion owing to the prevalence of malaria in this district-, but if the tra- 
 veller is not deterred by this drawback he is particularly cautioned against 
 indulging in sleep (comp. p. 11). 
 
 From Eboli (see above) the excursion is less pleasant, as there is no 
 good inn at that town for spending the previous night. Carriages will 
 be found waiting at the station to meet the early train from Naples (fares 
 and time the same as from Battipaglia). 
 
 By Water. In fine weather the excursion may also be made from 
 Salerno by boat (p. 165). Travellers land at the influx of the Salso, about 
 I.V 2 M. from the ruins. 
 
 In the season parties (p. 25) are frequently formed at Naples for the 
 purpose of visiting Paestum. See advertisements at the hotels. A party of 
 three or four friends, however, will perform the journey as cheaply and 
 more pleasantly. 
 
 From Salerno our route is by the great Calabrian road as far 
 as (12 l / 2 M.) Battipaglia on the Tusciano. It then turns to the S. 
 and traverses marshy plains, enlivened only by a few herds of buf- 
 faloes and other cattle. Agriculture, however, has been making 
 some progress here of late years, and the malaria is diminishing in 
 consequence. About 6 M. beyond Battipaglia our road is joined 
 by that from Eboli (7*/ 2 M. distant), which skirts the oak-forest of 
 Persano for some distance. About l 1 /^ M. farther the road crosses 
 the impetuous river Sele , the ancient Silarus , by a stone bridge 
 which has frequently been rebuilt. This used to be considered 
 
168 Route 11. 
 
 P^STUM. 
 
 Temple of Neptune. 
 
 the most dangerous part of the road in 1860-70, when the neigh- 
 bourhood was haunted by the daring brigand Manzi. Above the 
 road, on the left, are Capaccio Vecchio and Nuovo. The carriage 
 drives through the old gate between the town walls, passing the 
 Temple of Ceres and several poor hovels, and stops at the entrance 
 to the Temple of Neptune. The custodian is under the control of 
 the same authorities as the guides at Pompeii (1 fr. on leaving). 
 
 Paestum, according to Strabo, was founded by Greeks from Sybaris 
 about the year B.C. 600, and its ancient name of Poseidonia (city of 
 Neptune) sufficiently indicates its Greek origin. In the 4th cent, the 
 town was in possession of the Lucanians who oppressed the inhabit- 
 ants ; and at that period the citizens used to celebrate a festival an- 
 nually in memory of their Greek origin and their former prosperity. 
 After the defeat of Pyrrhus , Poseidonia fell into the hands of the 
 Romans, who in B.C. 273 founded the colony of Paestum here. In 
 the war against Hannibal the town remained faithful to Rome. At 
 a later period it gradually fell to decay, and as early as the reign of 
 Augustus was notorious for its malarious air. Christianity took root 
 here at an early period. When the Saracens devastated Paestum in 
 the 9th cent., the inhabitants fled with their bishop to the neigh- 
 bouring heights, and there founded Capaccio Vecchio. In the 11th 
 cent, the deserted town was despoiled by Robert Guiscard of its 
 monuments and sculptures, and remained in this desolate condition 
 for many centuries , till in modern times attention was again 
 directed to the antiquities still remaining. Those who appreciate 
 the simple majesty of Greek architecture should endeavour , if 
 possible, before quitting Naples, to pay a visit to Paestum. 
 
 The ancient Town Walls, forming an irregular hexagon, on 
 the river Salso, not far from the coast, about 3 M. in circum- 
 ference, constructed of blocks of travertine, are preserved al- 
 most entire; also a gate on the E. side towards the mountains, 
 with two bas-reliefs on the key-stones representing dolphins and 
 sirens. Outside the latter are fragments of an aqueduct, the pave- 
 ment of the road, and several towers. Without the N. gate, by 
 which we enter the town, was a Street of Tombs. Several of those 
 which have been opened contained Greek weapons ; and in one of 
 them, examined in 1854, were found fine mural paintings, repre- 
 senting warriors taking leave of their friends. Most of the ob- 
 jects discovered in the course of the excavations , which are still 
 continued, are preserved in the Museum at Naples (p. 63), but 
 a few are also shown at the neighbouring Villa Bellelli. 
 
 The Temples at Paestum, built in the ancient Greek style, are, 
 with the single exception of those at Athens, the finest existing 
 monuments of the kind. They are three in number. The largest 
 and most beautiful is that in the centre, the so-called ** Temple 
 of Neptune, 63yds. in length, and 28yds. in width. At each end 
 are six massive, fluted Doric columns, 28 ft. in height; on each 
 
P^ESTUM. 
 
 11. Route. 169 
 
 Temple of Ceres. 
 
 side twelve, in all thirty-six columns of 7^2 ft- in diameter, all 
 well-preserved. In the interior of the Celia are two series of eight 
 columns each (about 6 ft. in diameter), with a second row of 
 smaller columns above, which supported the roof. The latter are 
 preserved on one side only. The stone is a kind of travertine, to 
 which age has imparted a mellow tone. It contains fossil reeds 
 and aquatic plants. The whole was once covered with stucco, in 
 order to conceal the imperfections of the stone. The temple was 
 a hypsethron , i. e ., the cella, where the image stood, was un- 
 covered. The proportions of the symmetrically tapering columns, 
 whether viewed from the vicinity or from a distance, are perfect. 
 This temple, as its whole character betokens, is one of the most 
 ancient specimens of Greek art. Photographs and models of it 
 are frequently seen (comp. Introd., p. xxvi). A stone basis in 
 front of the E. facade probably belonged to a large sacrificial altar. 
 
 A little to the S. rises the second temple, the so-called ^Basi- 
 lica (a misnomer), of more recent origin, but also of great an- 
 tiquity. It is 60 yds. in length, and 26^2 yds. in width, and its 
 fifty columns are each 6 1 / 2 ft. in diameter, but its proportions are 
 less majestic than those of the temple of Neptune. At each end 
 are nine columns , and on each side sixteen , all of travertine 
 stone. The shafts of the columns taper upwards in a curve ; the 
 capitals are of a peculiar form which does not occur elsewhere. A 
 series of columns in the central long wall, by a singular arrange- 
 ment, divided the temple into two halves , so that it contained 
 two ‘cellae’. 
 
 In front of these temples probably extended the Forum of 
 the ancient town , basements for altars or statues being still 
 distinguishable here. 
 
 Farther N., near the entrance from Salerno, stands the small 
 * Temple of Ceres, or of Vesta according to others, with a 
 peristyle of thirty-four columns, six at each end, and eleven on 
 each side. Length 35 yds., width 15 yds. ; columns 5ft. in diameter, 
 tapering upwards in straight lines. The columns of the vestibule 
 are distinguished from those of the principal part: of the structure 
 by the difference of the fluting. This temple is another fine ex- 
 ample of the simple and majestic Greek style. (A few soldi to 
 the doorkeeper.) 
 
 Between the Temple of Ceres and that of Neptune a few frag- 
 ments of Roman building have been discovered, a Theatre and 
 Amphitheatre , it is believed. The latter is intersected by the 
 road. A Roman Temple was also discovered here in 1830. 
 Concealed among the underwood near it are two metopse, adorned 
 with high reliefs. These remains, however, are insignificant 
 compared with the ruins above mentioned. — Of the ‘rose-gardens’ 
 of Paestum, so much extolled by Roman poets, no traces now exist. 
 The temples are adorned with a luxuriant growth of ferns and 
 
170 Route 11. 
 
 MAIORT. 
 
 acanthus, enlivened solely by the chirping grasshopper, the rustl- 
 ing lizard, and the gliding snake. 
 
 A walk on the town-wall, perhaps from the N. gate round the 
 E. side to the S. gate, towards Salerno, will enable the traveller, 
 better than a close inspection, to form an idea of the imposing 
 grandeur of these venerable ruins. The finest general *View of 
 the temples is obtained from the terrace of the first tower to the 
 E. of the road, on the S. side of the town-wall. 
 
 Amalfi. 
 
 Comp, the Map , p. 166. 
 
 From Sorrento to Amalfi, see p. 174. From Castellamare to Amalfi 
 by the Little St. Angelo, see p. 174. 
 
 From Pagani (p. 163) a bridle-path ascends the W. slope of Monte di 
 Chiunzo. Near Torre di Chiunzo , an ancient fortress erected by Raimondo 
 Orsini, the path divides : that to the left leads through the Val Tramonti 
 by Figlino and Paterno to Maiori (see below) $ that to the right by Capiti, 
 Cesarano , and Scala to Atrani (p. 171). Each of these routes is a walk of 
 5-6 hrs., but neither is much used by tourists. A few years ago they were 
 considered unsafe. 
 
 The **High Road from Salerno to Amalfi, 1272 M., is the finest route 
 of all (by carriage in 272-3 hrs.). This magnificent road, completed in 
 1852, hewn in the cliffs of the coast, and frequently supported by galleries 
 and vast viaducts 100-500 ft. above the sea-level, skirts the coast, pass- 
 ing through thriving villages, and affording a succession of charming land- 
 scapes. The slopes are generally somewhat bare, but are in many places 
 laid out in terraces, and planted with Vines, olives, lemons, and fruit-trees. 
 The promontories of the coast are occupied by massive square watch- 
 towers, erected under Charles V. as a protection against pirates , now 
 converted into dwellings. This route is still more attractive than that 
 from Castellamare to Sorrento. 
 
 From Salerno the road ascends, and near Vietri (p. 164) crosses 
 the valley by a stone bridge. To the left in the sea rise two 
 conical rocks, I Due Fratelli. On the hill to the right is Ratto. 
 The next place is the picturesquely situated fishing-village of 
 Cetara. extending along the bottom of a narrow ravine ; it is 
 frequently mentioned in the history of the invasions of the Sara- 
 cens, and was the first place where they settled. The road now 
 ascends to the Capo Tumolo 1 whence a beautiful prospect of the 
 coast on both sides is enjoyed, and descends thence by the Capo 
 d J Orso , where the fleet of Charles V. was defeated by Filippino 
 Doria, to the small town of — 
 
 Maiori, at the mouth of the Yal Tramonti (see above), with 
 terraced lemon-plantations, at the base of the ruined monastery 
 of Camaldoli delV Avvocata (founded in 1485). Still higher lie 
 the ruins of the ancient castle of S. Nicola , of which the Pic- 
 colomini were the last proprietors. The road ascends slightly to 
 the next village of Minori, nearly adjoining which are Atrani and 
 Amalfi. 
 
 Minori , a clean little village, with lemon-gardens, most beau- 
 tifully situated, once the arsenal of Amalfi, lies at the mouth of 
 the sometimes turbulent Reginolo. 
 
AMALFI. 
 
 11. Route . 171 
 
 Atrani lies at the entrance to a ravine, on each side of which 
 the houses rise picturesquely. The church of S. Salvatore di 
 Biretto contains handsome bronze doors, of Byzantine work- 
 manship of the 11th cent., monuments of the Doges of Amalfi, 
 and others of the Saracenic period. Above Atrani is the village 
 of Pontone; farther on, to the left, lies Ravello (p. 178). 
 
 Near Pontone is the house where Masaniello (i. e. Tommaso Aniello, 
 son of Cecco d 1 Amalfi and Antonia Gargano) is said to have been born in 
 1620. On 7th July, 1647, he headed a formidable insurrection at Naples 
 against the Spaniards, but, after a short period of success, fell into a 
 kind of insanity, and on 17th July was shot in the pulpit of a church 
 by one of his former adherents. These events have been utilised by Scribe 
 in his text for Auber’s opera, ‘La Muette de Portici 1 , 
 
 A lofty rocky eminence , hearing the extensive ruins of the 
 castle of Pontone , separates Atrani from Amalfi. 
 
 Amalfi. — Hotels. : Albergo dei Cappuccini, on the Marina, small, 
 R. 3, B. IV 4 , dej. 21 / 2 , D. 5, A. 1 fr. ; a quieter house is the *Albergo 
 della Luna , formerly a monastery , charmingly situated between Atrani 
 and Amalfi, about M. from the Marina, similar charges; pension at 
 both. — Alb, dItalia, unpretending, but clean and well spoken of. 
 
 Boats lV2-l 3 /4 fr* per hour; to Scaricatojo (p. 174) with 2 rowers 
 7-8 fr. ; to Capri in about 6 hrs. with 4-6 rowers 20-25 fr. ; to Sorrento 
 with 4-6 rowers 30-45 fr. (preferable in fine weather to the land-route, 
 comp. p. 174) ; to Salerno with 2 rowers 6-8 fr. — A market-boat also starts 
 for Salerno every afternoon. 
 
 Donkey per hour l-P /4 fr. ; to Castellamare by the Little S. Angelo 5-6 fr. 
 
 Guide among the tortuous lanes, with their frequent flights of steps, 
 necessary only when time is very limited; for a visit to the cathedral, 
 mill-valley, and Capuchin monastery IV 2 - 2 , whole day 5 fr. 
 
 Amalfi , a small hut lively town with 7100 inhab., whose chief 
 occupations are the manufacture of paper, soap, and maccaroni, is 
 situated at the entrance of a deep ravine, surrounded by imposing 
 mountains and rocks of the most picturesque forms. In the early 
 part of the middle ages , it was a prosperous seaport , rivalling 
 Pisa and Genoa, and numbered 50,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Amalfi is mentioned for the first time in the 6th cent., when it enjoyed the 
 protection of the Eastern emperors ; it afterwards became an independent 
 state, under the presidency of a ‘doge\ The town was continually at 
 variance with the neighbouring princes of Salerno, and even defied the 
 Norman sovereigns of Naples, till King Roger reduced the place in 1131. 
 United with the royal forces, Amalfi carried on a war with the Pisans ; 
 and it was during this struggle that the celebrated MS. of the Pandects of 
 Justinian, now one of the principal treasures of the Laurentian library at 
 Florence, fell into the hands of the Pisans. The place then became subject 
 to the kings of the houses of Anjou and Arragon. In the 12th cent, the 
 sea began gradually to undermine the lower part of the town, and a ter- 
 rible inundation in 1343 proved still more disastrous. After that period 
 Amalfi steadily declined. The town boasts of having given birth to 
 Flavio Gioja , who is said to have invented the compass here in 1302, 
 but he was probably the author of some improvement only, as the 
 instrument was in use among the Chinese in the early centuries of the 
 Christian era. — The Cavaliere Camera possesses rich collections illustrat- 
 ing the history of Amalfi, and also an admirable cabinet of coins , which 
 he very obligingly shows to interested visitors. 
 
 From the Marina a short street leads past the Albergo dei 
 Cappuccini to the small Piazza, on the right side of which rises the 
 cathedral. The entrance adjoining the crypt (see below) may 
 
172 Route 1 1 . 
 
 AMALFI. 
 
 also be reached by the steps to the right of the fountain on the 
 Marina. 
 
 The *Catteduale S. Andrea, approached from the Piazza by 
 a broad flight of steps, is still, in spite of modern alterations, 
 an interesting structure of the 11th cent., in the Lombard Nor- 
 man style. The portal , built of alternate courses of black and 
 white stone, and resting on seven antique columns from Paestum 
 and several buttresses , having become insecure , was removed 
 in 1865, but has been re-erected. The campanile dates from 1276, 
 
 The Bronze Doors , executed by Byzantine masters in the 11th cent., 
 bear two inscriptions in silver letters, one of which runs thus : ‘Hoc 
 opus fieri jussit pro redemptione animse suse Pantaleo filius Mauri de 
 Pantaleone de Mauro de Maurone Comite 1 . 
 
 The '"Interior consists of a nave and two aisles, with a series of 
 chapels on each side. Behind the chapels on the N. side is a third aisle, 
 connected with the N. aisle by several entrances. On the left, close to 
 the principal entrance, is an ancient vase of porphyry, formerly used as a 
 font. Near this, to the left, in the first passage to the outer aisle, are 
 two ancient sarcophagi with sculptures, unfortunately damaged, supposed 
 to represent the Rape of Proserpine, and the Nuptials of Peleus and Thetis 
 (according to others, the marriage of Theseus and Ariadne) ; a third bears 
 the inscription : ‘Hie intus homo verus certus optumus recumbo Quintus 
 
 Fabritius Rufus nobilis decurio 1 . — The choir contains ancient columns 
 decorated with mosaic from Psestum. — From the S. aisle a flight of steps 
 descends to the Crypt (verger 20 c.), where the body of the apostle St. Andrew 
 is said to have reposed since the 13th cent, when it was brought hither 
 from Constantinople. The relics, from which an oily matter (manna di 
 S. Andrea) of miraculous power is said to exude, attract numerous de- 
 votees. The colossal statue of the saint by Michael Angelo Maccarino was 
 presented by Philip III. of Spain. The altar was executed from a design 
 by Domenico Fontana. — The cloisters contain an ancient Christian relief of 
 the Twelve Apostles, and a Madonna of more recent date. 
 
 From tbe Piazza, opposite the cathedral, the Supportico Fer- 
 rari leads us to a small piazza , in the left corner of which we 
 ascend the steps under the house to the right. After 43 steps 
 we turn to the left and ascend the covered flight of steps, at 
 the top of which , high above the sea , our route is level for a 
 little way. After another ascent we at length reach ( 1/4 hr.) 
 the * Capuchin Monastery , which was founded by Cardinal Pietro 
 Capuano for the Cistercians, but came into possession of the Ca- 
 puchins in 1583, and is now a naval school. The building stands 
 in the hollow of a rock which rises abruptly from the sea to a 
 height of 230 ft. It contains fine cloisters, a charming verandah, 
 and magnificent points of view. A large grotto to the left, for- 
 merly used as a Calvary, or series of devotional stations, com- 
 mands a prospect towards the E. (fee 25 c.). 
 
 A cool and pleasant Walk may be taken in the narrow 
 Valle de J Molini , or mill-valley, at the back of Amalfi , which 
 contains sixteen paper-mills driven by the brook. (From the 
 Piazza we follow the main street, which ends in 4 min.; we 
 then go straight on through the Porta dell’ Ospedale, a covered 
 passage opposite the fountain.) On the right rise lofty cliffs, 
 crowned by the ruins of the Castello Pontone. The solitary tower 
 
RAVELLO. 
 
 11. Route. 173 
 
 dates from the time of Queen Johanna. — To Amalfi belong the 
 five villages of Pogerola , Pastina , Lene, Vettica Minore , and To- 
 vere , all situated to the W. of the town in a district which yields 
 wine, oil, and fruit in abundance. The coast is overgrown with 
 the aloe and cactus opuntia. 
 
 From Amalfi to Ravello, an ascent of U /4 hr. (donkey 2 fr. ; 
 guide 2-3 fr., unnecessary), a most attractive excursion, affording 
 beautiful views , and interesting also to the student of art , partic- 
 ularly if as yet unacquainted with Moorish architecture. 
 
 We return to Atrani; beyond the viaduct and the projecting rock 
 round which the road leads we ascend a broad flight of steps to the left; 
 cross the small Largo Maddalena in front of the church of that name; 
 turn to the right and go on in the same direction, passing through several 
 covered lanes , ascending steps , and sometimes descending. Farther on, 
 we skirt the right (E.) slope of the valley, ascend in windings, and at 
 length pass through a gateway to the piazza in front of the cathedral of 
 Ravello (nearly opposite the cathedral is a rustic osteria). 
 
 Ravello, a celebrated old town in a lofty situation , wben in 
 the zenith of its prosperity possessed thirteen churches, four mon- 
 asteries, numerous palaces , and a population of 36,000 souls, but 
 now numbers 1900 inhabitants only. 
 
 The * Cathedral, founded in the 11th cent., is almost entirely 
 modernised. The bronze doors, with numerous figures of saints, 
 date from 1179. The magnificent *Ambo, in marble, embellished 
 with mosaics, was presented in 1272; it rests on six columns sup- 
 ported by lions ; inscription, ‘Nicolaus de Fogia marmorarius hoc 
 opus fecit’. Opposite to it is the pulpit, in a simpler style, 
 with a representation of Jonah being swallowed by the whale. 
 In the choir is the episcopal throne, adorned with mosaics. On 
 the left is the Cappella di S. Pantaleone , containing the blood of 
 the saint. In the Sacristy is a Madonna by Andrea da Salerno. 
 
 Turning to the left on leaving the cathedral , passing the foun- 
 tain, and walking for 100 paces between garden-walls, we reach 
 the entrance to the *Palazzo Rufalo (visitors ring a bell on the 
 right), now the property of a Mr. Reid. This edifice, built in the 
 Saracenic style and dating from the 12th cent., was once occupied 
 by Pope Adrian IV., King Charles II., and Robert the Wise. In 
 the centre is a small, fantastic court with a colonnade. The gate- 
 way has a Saracenic dome. A verandah in the garden (1115 ft. above 
 the sea-level) commands a delightful *View (a contribution for the 
 poor of the place is expected; gardener ^ fr.). 
 
 Returning to the piazza and ascending a lane to the left of the 
 cathedral, we come in 5 min. to the church of S. Giovanni , a mod- 
 ernised basilica borne by columns , and containing a fine old 
 pulpit. — The adjacent garden (1220 ft. above the sea), formerly 
 the property of the d’Afflitto family, affords a fine *View of the 
 valley of Minori , of the small town of that name at its mouth, 
 and of the more distant Maiori and the Capo Tumolo beyond 
 it (fee of a few soldi ; refreshments to be had). 
 
174 Route 1 1 . 
 
 POSITANO. 
 
 S. Maria Immacolata is a picturesque little church. 
 
 Another point commanding a very extensive view is the Bel- 
 vedere Cembrone. Passing in front of the cathedral, we go straight 
 through a gateway, turn to the left after 8 min., pass the portal of 
 the church of S. Chiara , reach a door on the left, and walk straight 
 through the garden. — Other picturesque points in the environs 
 may he visited if time permits. 
 
 Our excursion to Amalfi may he pleasantly extended hy 2-3 
 hrs. by visiting Scala , a village with an episcopal church and the 
 ruined castle of Scaletta , and Pontone , and descending thence 
 to the mill-valley. This is an interesting , hut fatiguing walk. 
 A donkey should not he taken farther than Ravello, as riding is 
 scarcely practicable beyond it. 
 
 From Amalfi to Sorrento. The route across the hills is on the whole 
 rather tedious, as the ascent is very steep and the view at the top limited. 
 It is preferable to go by water as far as Positano, or better still Scarica- 
 tojo (2-272 hrs.), and thence on foot or donkey-back across the hills (from 
 Positano from Scaricatojo 272-3 hrs.). 
 
 The voyage (boats, see p. 171) along the picturesque coast (costiera 
 occidental) , passing the Capo di Conca , the precipitous cliffs of Furore , 
 the village of Prajano with its luxuriant vines and olives , and Vettica 
 Maggiore in the vicinity, is very beautiful. In about 2 hrs. we reach — 
 
 Positano , picturesquely situated on the mountain-slopes , with 2600 
 inhab. , an important harbour during the Anjou dynasty. Many of the 
 natives of this place (like those of Secondigliano and Montemurro) leave 
 their homes and travel through the ex-kingdom of Naples as hawkers. 
 They assemble at their native places annually to celebrate their principal 
 church-festival , and again return thither in later life to spend their 
 declining years. With the exception of a few boatmen , the population 
 therefore consists chiefly of old men, women, and children. 
 
 [From Positano to Sorrento 474 hrs. (guide advisable, 2-3 fr.). The 
 route ascends for nearly I72 hr., and at the top of the hill inclines to the 
 left. It then leads through (40 min.) Picciano , (20 min.) Preazzano , and 
 Fornacelle , and passes to the right of the hill on which the yellow build- 
 ing of Camaldoli di Meta (p. 157) lies. The next places are Arbore and 
 (1 hr.) Meta (p. 152), whence Sorrento is 2 M. distant by the high road.] 
 
 The voyage to Lo Scaricatojo only takes 7? ^ r * more than the passage 
 to Positano, although situated much farther to the W., as the boat steers 
 from the Capo Sottile straight across the bay. The landing at Scaricatojo 
 is not very easy , especially if the sea is at all rough , in which case the 
 boatmen generally propose to go to Positano instead. The traveller may, 
 however, prefer going direct to Scaricatojo, and if he finds the landing 
 impracticable he may then return to Positano. 
 
 From Scaricatojo to Sorrento (272-3 hrs. ; guide desirable). The 
 path ascends,, at first by a fatiguing series of steps in the rocks, to the 
 (I72 hr.) height of the Conti di Qeremenna , where there are several 
 scattered houses. We follow the path in a straight direction, avoiding 
 that to the left. Immediately after crossing the crest of the hill, we obtain 
 a view of the Bay of Naples, Capri, Ischia, and Procida. After 5 min. we 
 go straight on, avoiding the stony path to the left - , after 25 min., nearly 
 at the base of the hill, the unpaved path leads to the right between walls ; 
 after 5 min., to the left; after 5 min. more, to the left by the narrow path 
 to Sorrento (to the right to Carotto , p. 153); again, after 5 min., to the 
 left between walls, and then by the high road to the left; 25 min., Hotel 
 Bellevue (p. 153); 74 hr- Sorrento (p. 153). 
 
 From Amalfi to Castellamare over the Little S. Angelo (7 hrs. ; don- 
 keys, see p. 171), a fatiguing walk which hardly repays the trouble, as 
 an unobstructed view is seldom obtained. The safety of the route was 
 
NOLA. 
 
 12. Route . 175 
 
 moreover doubtful, until quite recently. The path leads by Pastina and 
 Vettica Mihore in the Val Vettica, a picturesque ravine. Farther on, 
 to the left, at the base of the mountain slope, lies Conca , consisting of 
 a few scattered houses, where the long Capo di Conca (p. 174) extends 
 into the sea. The path, now steep and unshaded, next leads in V 2 hr. 
 to S. Lazaro , a fort with a small garrison, and the finest point on the 
 route, which will repay a visit from Amalfi. The terrace below com- 
 mands a strikingly beautiful survey of the fertile coast as far as Positano 
 (p. 174); to the N. rises the Monte S. Angelo (p. 152). Beyond the fort 
 the path, shaded by walnut and cherry-trees, and leading partly through 
 wood, ascends by Agerola to the top of the pass of S. Angelo a Guida. 
 On the summit we traverse a wild district; to the left is the crest of La 
 Parata , to the right the slight eminence of Piano di Perillo , overgrown 
 with brushwood. From the summit to (3 hrs.) Gragnano a fatiguing de- 
 scent by a stony and precipitous forest-path. From Gragnano to (3 M.) 
 Castellamare, a dusty high-road (p. 150). 
 
 12. From Naples to Nola and Avellino. 
 
 From Cancello, a station on the Naples and Rome railway, a branch- 
 line runs to Nola, and skirts the Apennines to Avellino. From Naples four 
 trains daily: to Nola in l^-l^ hr. (fares 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 5 c.); to 
 Avellino in 3-3 3 /4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 80, 5 fr. 50, 2 fr. 75 c.>. 
 
 From Naples to Cancello , 13 M., see p. 10. 
 
 20^2 M. Nola, with 11,900 inhab., an ancient Campanian city, 
 was almost the only one which successfully resisted the attacks of 
 Hannibal after the battle of Cannae, B.C. 216; and the following 
 year its inhabitants under the command of the brave M. Marcellus 
 succeeded in repulsing the invader. The Emperor Augustus died 
 here on 19th Aug. A.D. 14, in his 76th year, in the same house 
 and apartment where his father Octavius had breathed his last. In 
 ancient times Nola was not less important than Pompeii. It is now 
 an insignificant place and devoid of interest. In the 5th cent., 
 St. Paulinus, an accomplished poet and Bishop of Nola (b. at Bor- 
 deaux in 354, d. 431), is said to have invented church-bells at this 
 Campanian town, whence the word ‘campana’ is derived. On 
 26th July a festival , accompanied by processions and games, is 
 celebrated in his honour. In the middle of the 16th cent, the 
 free-thinker Giordano Bruno was born at Nola, who, on 17th Feb. 
 1600, terminated his eventful career at the stake in Rome. 
 Giovanni Merliano , the sculptor of Naples, known as Giovanni di 
 Nola , was also born here in 1488. 
 
 Nola is celebrated as an ancient cradle of the plastic art. 
 The magnificent vases with shining black glazing and skilfully 
 drawn red figures, which form the principal ornaments of the 
 museums of Naples and of other places, were executed here. 
 Numerous coins of Nola with Greek inscriptions have also been 
 found. Scanty remains of an amphitheatre still exist. 
 
 About y 2 M. to the N.E. of the town is situated the Seminary , where 
 several Latin inscriptions and the so-called Cippus Abellanus , a remarkable 
 inscription in the Oscan language found near Abella, are preserved. Above 
 the seminary (5 min.) is the Franciscan monastery of JS. Angelo , command- 
 ing a view of the fertile and luxuriant plain ; to the left is Monte Somma, 
 
176 Route 12. 
 
 AYELLINO. 
 
 behind which Vesuvius is concealed; to the right rise the mountains of 
 Maddaloni. A little to the E. is a Capuchin monastery, above which the 
 ruined castle of Cicala picturesquely crowns an eminence. 
 
 To the W. of Nola lies (5 M.) the small town of Avella , or in Latin 
 Abella, near which there are extensive plantations of hazel-nut, the ‘nuces 
 Avellanse 1 of antiquity. 
 
 25 M. Palma, picturesquely situated on the slopes of the 
 Apennines opposite Ottajano , with 7300 inhab. and an ancient 
 chateau, is commanded by an extensive ruined castle on a height. 
 
 30 M. Sarno, a town with 16,300 inhab., lies on the Sarno , 
 which flows hence towards Scafati and Pompeii. Above it towers a 
 ruined stronghold, once the seat of Count Francesco Coppola, who 
 took an important part in the conspiracy of the barons against Fer- 
 dinand of Arragon (1485). 
 
 The view now becomes more limited. 35 M. Codola ; 37 M. 
 San Giorgio. 40 M. San Severino (poor inn), on the road from 
 Avellino to Salerno. The principal church contains the tombs of 
 Tommaso da San Severino, high constable of the kingdom of Naples 
 in 1353, and of several princes of Salerno. A road leads from 
 S. Severino to Salerno (about 10 M; railway projected), via Baro- 
 nisi , the scene of the capture of Fra Diavolo. 
 
 The line now turns to the north. 43 M. Montoro ; 51 y 2 M. 
 Solo fra; 54 M. Serino. 
 
 59M. Avellino (Albergo Centrale , well spoken of, obliging 
 landlord, who provides guides for Mte. Yergine; * Albergo delle 
 Puglie), with 21,100 inhab., the capital of a province, situated on 
 the old post-road from Naples to Foggia. The name is derived from 
 the ancient Abellinum , the ruins of which are 2*/ 2 M. distant, near 
 the village of Atripalda. Another road leads hence to (14 M.) 
 Montesarchio and Benevento (p. 185). 
 
 From Avellino we may visit Monte Vergine, a famous resort of 
 pilgrims (donkey 4-5 fr. and fee). The route is tolerably well 
 shaded as far as (5 M.) Mercogliano , beyond which a steep moun- 
 tain-path leads in iy 2 hr. to the shrine of Monte Vergine, founded 
 in 1119 on the ruins of a temple of Cybele. 
 
 The Church contains a miraculous picture of the Virgin , and the 
 tombs of Catherine of Valois, who caused the picture to be brought 
 hither, and of her son Louis of Taranto, second husband of Johanna I. 
 Their effigies repose on a Roman sarcophagus. On the left side of the 
 high altar is . the chapel erected for himself by King Manfred, which, 
 when that monarch fell at Benevento, was given by Charles of Anjou to 
 one of his French attendants. 
 
 We may ascend hence to the top of the mountain (4292 ft.), 
 commanding a magnificent survey of the bays and the extensive 
 mountainous district. The abbot and the older monks occupy the 
 Loreto, or V Ospizio, a large octagonal structure near Mercogliano, 
 erected from a design by Vanvitelli. The archives have been incor- 
 porated with the government archives at Naples. Great festivals, 
 attended by numerous pilgrims in their gayest costumes, are cele- 
 brated here at Whitsuntide (see p. 29). 
 
EASTERN AND SOUTHERN DISTRICTS OF 
 S. ITALY. 
 
 These parts of Italy have, until recently, been beyond the reach of the 
 ordinary traveller. The W. coast is, moreover, by far the richer and more 
 picturesque, as well as more replete with historical interest. The E. 
 districts can boast of no such names as those of Florence , Rome, and 
 Naples, but they are not devoid of attraction, and have been endowed by 
 nature with a considerable share of the gifts she has so bounteously 
 lavished on other parts of Italy. 
 
 The Apennines , rising at a short distance from the coast, send forth 
 a series of parallel ramifications, forming a corresponding number of par- 
 allel valleys, whose communication with the external world is maintained 
 by means of the coast to which they descend. To the S. of Ancona, from 
 about the 43rd to the 42nd degree of N. latitude, stretch the Central 
 Apennines , embracing the three provinces of the Abruzzi (Chieti, Teramo, 
 and Aquila) , the ancient Samnium. They culminate in the Montagna 
 della Sibilla (8123 ft.), the Oran Basso cf Italia (9816 ft.), and the Majella 
 (9121 ft.) , groups which are connected by continuous ranges , and which 
 are clad with snow down to the month of July. These mountains abound 
 in fine scenery (RR. 15-17) , but until recently they have been well-nigh 
 inaccessible owing to the defectiveness of the means of communication 
 and the badness of the inns. The mountains to the S. of 42° N. lat., 
 receding gradually from the sea, are called the Neapolitan Apennines. 
 
 The last spur which projects into the sea is the Mte. Gargano (5118 ft.), 
 which, however, is separated from the chief range by a considerable plain. 
 Beyond this stretches the Apulian plain, an extensive tract of pasture and 
 arable land, bounded by an undulating district on the S. About the 41st de- 
 gree of N. latitude the Apennines divide ; the main chain, extending towards 
 the S., forms the peninsula of Calabria; the lower chain, to the E., that 
 of Apulia. 
 
 The Coast (Provinces of Ancona , the Abruzzi , Capitanata , Terra di 
 Bari , and Terra d' Otranto) is flat and monotonous, and destitute of good 
 harbours. The estuaries of the small rivers afford but scanty protection 
 to the vessels of the coasting trade. Even at Ancona the prominent 
 M. Conero (1880 ft.) alone renders the anchorage tolerable. The villages 
 and towns, in which local peculiarities often prevail in a marked degree, 
 are generally situated on the heights, and conspicuous at a great distance. 
 Farther to the S., however, in the ancient Apulia and Calabria (p. 184), 
 the coast scenery improves, and there are three important harbours, those 
 of Rari, Brindisi , and Otranto. Since the construction of the railway the 
 most direct route between Western and Central Europe and the East has 
 passed this way, and this district is gradually attracting more attention 
 from travellers. As yet, however, it is only the larger towns which boast 
 of tolerable inns. 
 
 In the S. and S.W. districts , the former province of Basilicata , the 
 ancient Lucania (less interesting than most other parts of Italy), and in 
 Calabria , civilisation has made extremely slow progress, and the inns in 
 particular are grievously behind the requirements of the age. In these 
 respects Calabria, a district replete with striking scenery, is specially 
 unfortunate. The shores of the Gulf of Taranto , whose waters bound 
 both of these provinces, were once studded with numerous flourishing 
 Greek colonies, and the whole district bore the name of Magna Graecia; 
 but the traces of that prosperous epoch are now scanty. The period of 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 12 
 
178 Route 13. 
 
 FERMO. 
 
 decline began with the Roman supremacy. The art and culture of the 
 middle ages never penetrated to these remote regions. The fields once 
 extolled by Sophocles for their richness and fertility are now sought for 
 in vain, and the malaria now exercises its dismal sway throughout the 
 whole of this neglected district. The soil belongs to the nobility , who 
 let it to a miserably poor and ignorant class of farmers. The custom of 
 carrying weapons is universally prevalent here (comp., however, p. xiv), and 
 brigandage was carried on until quite recently. The villages are generally 
 wretched and filthy beyond description. No one should therefore attempt to 
 explore the remoter parts of this country unless provided with letters of 
 introduction to some of the principal inhabitants (comp. p. 226). It is, 
 however, expected that the condition of the country will speedily improve 
 when the railway-system is more developed, and the dormant capabilities 
 of the soil are thus called into action. 
 
 13. From Ancona to Foggia (Brindisi). 
 
 201 M. Railway in 61/4-12 1 /, hrs.; fares 36 fr. 35, 25 fr. 50, 14 fr. 35 c. 
 (3rd class by express 18 fr. 20 c.). — Ancona is 347 M. distant from Brin- 
 disi, to which an express train runs daily in 14 hrs. in correspondence 
 with the quick trains from Milan and Bologna (fares 62 fr. 50 c., 44 fr., 
 31 fr. 40 c.) *, also once weekly (Sun.) in 10 3 /4 hrs. (from Bologna to 
 Brindisi 15 hrs.), in connection with the English mail to India, carrying 
 passengers to Brindisi only. The local trains stop for the night at Pescara 
 or Foggia. 
 
 The line skirts the coast, affording a sea view to the left, and an in- 
 land view to the right. The towns, generally situated on the heights, at 
 some distance from the railway, communicate regularly with their stations 
 by diligence; but these vehicles have little pretension to comfort. 
 
 Ancona, see Baedeker s Central Italy. The train passes through 
 a tunnel under the hills surrounding Ancona; to the left rises 
 the promontory of Monte Guasco ; on a hill to the right lies the 
 ancient town of Osimo, the Roman Auximum. 10 M. Stat. Osimo 
 is 51/2 M. from the town. On the right we soon obtain a view of 
 Castelfidardo , where the papal troops under Lamoriciere were utterly 
 defeated by the Italians under Cialdini in 1860. 
 
 15 M. Loreto , 17y 2 M. Recanati (see Baedeker s Central Italy). 
 The train crosses the Potenza. 23 M. Potenza Picena is named 
 after a Roman colony which once lay in the neighbourhood, but 
 of which not a trace now exists. On the hill, about 4y 2 M. inland, 
 lies the village of Montesanto. 
 
 27 M. Porto Civitanova lies at the mouth of the Chienti. The 
 town of Civitanova lies iy 4 M. inland. The train crosses the 
 Chienti. 31 M. 8. Elpidio a Mare. The village of 8. Elpidio lies 
 several miles inland. — The Tenna is next crossed. 
 
 37 M. Porto S. Giorgio , with an imposing fort. 
 
 On the hill , 3 M. inland , is situated Fermo ( Locanda dell' Aquila ; 
 seat in a carriage 50 c.), the ancient Firmum Picenum , with 18,900 inhab., 
 and the seat of an archbishop. It became a Roman colony after the begin- 
 ning of the First Punic War, and has continued since that period to be a 
 town of some importance. At the Porta S. Francesco , by which the town 
 is entered , are seen remnants of the ancient wall , constructed at a very 
 remote period. The streets ascend somewhat precipitously to the height 
 on which the handsome Piazza is situated; the Town Hall here contains 
 some inscriptions and antiquities. Antiquarians should visit the collection 
 of the Avvocato de Minicis. Outside the town we obtain fine views of the 
 fertile district, the Apennines, and the sea. 
 
ASCOLI. 
 
 13. Route. 
 
 179 
 
 The train next crosses the brooks Lete Vivo and Aso. 43 M. 
 Pedaso , 48 M. Cupra Mcirittima (Marano). Near the latter once 
 lay the ancient town of that name , with a celebrated temple 
 dedicated to the Sabine goddess Cupra, and restored by Hadrian 
 (in A.D. 127). 50 M. Grottammare. On the hill, about 4l/ 2 M. 
 inland, is Ripatransone (6000 inhab.). The inhabitants of these 
 districts greatly resemble their Neapolitan neighbours in manners 
 and appearance. 
 
 53 M. S. Benedetto (inn at the station), a village on the coast. 
 
 Ascoli Piceno (*Locanda delC Aquila), the ancient Asculum Picenum , with 
 22,800 inhab., the seat of a bishop and capital of a province, is situated in 
 the fertile valley of the Tronto , 19 M. from the S. Benedetto station (diligence 
 twice daily in 4 hrs., fare 2 l fa fr.). The road ascends on theN. side of the 
 valley and then crosses to the S. side, where the town lies. The valley is 
 here contracted and enclosed by lofty mountains. To the N. rises the 
 jagged M. della Ascensione, to the W. the Sibilla, and more to the S. the 
 Pizzo di Sevo. Mountain roads lead hence by JVorcia to Spoleto , and others 
 through the valleys of the Velino and Aterno to Aquila (p. 190) and the 
 interior of the Abruzzi. Ascoli, an ancient town in a commanding situation, 
 the capital of the tribe of Picentines, took a prominent part in the Social 
 War against Rome, and was captured and destroyed by Pompey. Interesting 
 remains of the ancient walls, a bridge, and a "Gate at the W. end of the 
 town. The town-hall contains a few inscriptions, and other relics are 
 encountered in other parts of the town , e. g. insignificant vestiges of a 
 theatre and amphitheatre. The architecture of the churches and palaces 
 dates chiefly from a period anterior to the Renaissance, materially en- 
 hancing the interest of the town , which is indeed the most attractive on 
 the E. coast. The * Cathedral is said to have been founded by Constan- 
 tine on the site of a temple of Hercules. The original substructions are 
 still traceable. A chapel on the right in the interior contains good pictures 
 by Crivelli. 
 
 Beyond S. Benedetto the train crosses the Tronto, tbe ancient 
 Truentus , formerly tbe boundary between the States of the 
 Church and the kingdom of Naples. 62 M. Tortoreto. 68 M. Giu- 
 lianova , a dirty village on the hill, iy 4 M. from the coast, built 
 in the 15th cent, by the inhabitants of the ancient Castrum Novum 
 on the Tordino , and then named 8. Flaviano. 
 
 Teramo, the ancient Interamna , the capital of a province and seat 
 of a bishop, with 20,100 inhab., 15 M. distant (post-omnibus 2 fr., in 2 l fa- 
 il hrs.), is situated on the left bank of the Tordino. The Gothic cathedral 
 is now modernised. The valley commands a succession of fine views of 
 the imposing Gran Sasso. The town contains several inns , the best in 
 the Piazza, where the Cafe <T Italia is also situated. 
 
 A new road ascends the valley of the Vomano from Teramo to Aquila 
 (comp. p. 191). 
 
 The train crosses the Tordino , the ancient Batinus , and then 
 the Vomano (Vomanus). To the right a line view is obtained of 
 the Gran Sasso d’ltalia (p. 191), which is here visible from base to 
 summit. 79 1 / 2 M. Mutignano. 
 
 Atri (*Albergo di Vine. Mar cone ) , 6 M. inland (diligence daily, 1 fr. 
 25c., other conveyances rarely obtainable), the ancient Hadria, an epis- 
 copal residence, with 10,000 inhab., is a town of great antiquity, and was 
 once celebrated for its copper coins. Numerous ruins bear testimony to 
 its ancient importance. The Gothic cathedral with its frescoes merits a 
 visit. It rests on extensive foundations of ancient origin, perhaps those of a 
 temple. Several large grottoes near the town are also of very remote date. 
 
 12 * 
 
180 Route 13. 
 
 PESCARA. 
 
 From Ancona 
 
 The train now crosses the Piomba , the ancient Matrinus , 5 M. 
 inland from which is situated Citta Santangelo (6800 inhab.). 
 84 M. Silvi; 87 M. Montesilvano. 
 
 Penne , 16 M. inland, the capital of the district, with 9900 inliab., was 
 the Pinna of the ancients, and chief town of the Vestini, of which period 
 various relics still exist. 
 
 91 M. Pescara ( Leone d’Oro ; Railway Restaurant ), a fortified 
 town with 5400 inh., situated in an unhealthy plain on the N. 
 bank of the Pescara , is one of the principal stations on the line. 
 The mountain-group of the Majella , culminating in Monte Amara 
 (9121ft.), and 55 M. in circumference, now becomes visible on the 
 right. The train crosses the river by an iron bridge, below which 
 are a wooden bridge and a small harbour, and then describes a curve 
 round the town. — Branch-line to Solmona and Aquila , see R. 15. 
 
 96 M. Francavilla , a village on the hill to the right. Beyond 
 it a mountain-spur projects into the sea. Four short tunnels. Be- 
 yond the third the fort of Ortona becomes visible on the left. 
 
 105 M. Ortona. The town ( Caprera ; Cafe in the Piazza), ^2 M. 
 from the station , the ancient Orton , capital of the Frentani , is 
 now a tolerably clean and well-built place (12,200 inhab.), situated 
 on a lofty promontory , with a small quay on the shore below. 
 Beautiful views towards the S. as far as the Punta di Penna (see 
 below), especially of the ancient and dilapidated fort. The archi- 
 tecture of the cathedral should be inspected. 
 
 Beyond Ortona the train passes through another tunnel and 
 crosses two brooks. 109^2 M. 8. Vito Chietino is the station for Lan - 
 ciano , 6 M. inland, with 17,300 inhab., the ancient Anxanum. 
 It may also be reached from the next station (52 M.) Fossacesia. 
 Between S. Vito and Fossacesia three tunnels, beyond which we 
 obtain a pleasing survey 'of the peninsula, terminating in the Punta 
 di Penna. 
 
 The train crosses the Sangro , Lat. Sangrus. 122 M. Casalbor- 
 dino. Three tunnels, beyond which Yasto becomes visible, on an 
 olive-clad hill on the right. 131 M. Stat. Vasto. The town lies on 
 the hill, ll/ 4 M. from the station. 
 
 Vasto (*Locanda del Pesce; the others dirty; Cafe Nazionale), 
 the ancient Histonium , with 14,400 inhab., lies high, and com- 
 mands fine views as far as the Tremiti islands (p. 181) and Monte 
 Gargano. The small cathedral with a Gothic facade bears a memo- 
 rial tablet to General ‘Carlo Antonio Manhes, distruttore de’ bri- 
 ganti, primo cittadino del Yasto’, date 1810. A small museum in 
 the town-hall contains inscriptions and other relics found here. In 
 the environs are extensive olive plantations. 
 
 The train crosses the Trigno , Lat. Trinius. 147^2 M. Termoli 
 ( Venezia , in the suburb), a fortress close to the sea, with mediae- 
 val walls, excessively dirty. Charming survey of the Majella and 
 Abruzzi. The cathedral, with a Gothic facade, contains a number 
 of quaintly decorated saints. 
 
to Foggia. 
 
 FOGGIA. 
 
 13. Route. 181 
 
 From Termoli a diligence runs daily via Campobasso in about 20 hrs. 
 to (94 M.) Solopaca , on the Foggia and Naples railway (thence by rail- 
 way to Maddaloni , on the Rome and Naples line). A railway follow- 
 ing the direction of this road is projected. The first half of the route 
 is monotonous. The first important place is (22 M.) Larino , in a valley, 
 near the ruins of the ancient Larinum. The road continues to ascend 
 through a bleak district. Campobasso, 37V2 M. farther , the capital of a 
 province, and a place of some importance, with 14,000 inhab., is noted 
 for its steel wares. A halt of some duration is made here. 
 
 From Campobasso to Solopaca, 34V2 M., by diligence in 6 h^s. (fare 
 6 fr.). The road, after traversing the mountain, descends into the valley 
 of the Tamaro. The country becomes more attractive. Post-station Se- 
 pino; the town lies 2 M. higher. About 2 1 /4 M. from this point are situ- 
 ated the extensive ruins of the ancient Saepinum , now Altilia. A little 
 to the left of the road, 14 J /2 M. farther, is the village of Pontelandolfo , the 
 inhabitants of which in 1861 cruelly and treacherously assassinated thirty- 
 six Italian soldiers and four carabineers, whom they had received with ap- 
 parent hospitality and induced to lay down their arms. General Cialdini 
 caused the troops to take a summary and sanguinary revenge. Then the 
 village of Guardia S. Framondi. The road now descends to the beautiful 
 valley of the Calore , crossing it by an iron bridge , and at stat. Solopaca 
 reaches the Foggia and Naples railway, by which Maddaloni is 17 M. 
 distant (R. 14.) 
 
 The Tremiti Islands , 25 M. N.E. of Termoli, the Insulae Diome- 
 deae of ancient mythology, the largest of which is 8. Domenico , arc 
 used, as in ancient times, as a place of imprisonment. 
 
 Beyond Termoli, where the cactus first makes its appearance, 
 the scenery is less attractive. The train crosses the Biferno , Lat. 
 Tifernus. 152 M. Campomarino , 158 M. Chieuti , once Albanian 
 colonies. We next cross the Fortore , the ancient Frento. 
 
 165 M. Ripalta. 
 
 Near Ripalta, on 15th June, 1503, the Normans defeated and captured 
 Pope Leo IX. , and then , falling on their knees , implored his blessing. 
 Leo, relenting, imparted it, and subsequently conferred Apulia, Calabria, 
 and Sicily on the brothers Humfred and Robert Guiscard , a grant which 
 was ultimately fraught with consequences so important to Rome and the 
 papal throne, as well as to the Normans. 
 
 To the N.E. is the Lago di Lesina , which communicates with 
 the sea. The train now proceeds inland, in order to avoid the 
 promontory of M. Gargano (p. 183), a buttress of the Apennines 
 projecting into the sea, with several peaks nearly 5000 ft. in height. 
 1744/4 M. Poggio Imperiale; 177 M. Apricena; 184 M. San Severo , 
 a dirty town with 17,000 inhab., which, after a gallant resistance, 
 was taken and almost entirely destroyed by the French in 1799. 
 The cholera committed fearful ravages here in 1865. 191 M. Motta. 
 
 201 M. Foggia. — Restaurant , with several good rooms, at the station. 
 The town is 1 /3 M. distant ^ cab 1/2 fr- — /w the Town: Albergo Centrale 
 and Trattoria Gavour , at the entrance to the town, R. 2, L and A. 1 fr. 
 Locanda e Ristor. di Roma , in the main street. 
 
 Foggia , the capital of a province formerly called the Capitanata , 
 and the junction of the coast railway and the line to Benevento and 
 Naples (R. 14), is a clean, thriving town, with 38,500 inhabi- 
 tants. It is well situated in a commercial point of view, and forms 
 the central point of the great Apulian plain. On the left, opposite 
 the first houses of the town, */4 M, from the station, is a colonnade 
 
182 Route 13. 
 
 MANFREDONIA. 
 
 From Ancona 
 
 forming the entrance to the Giardino Pubblico , which is adorned 
 with several busts. Beyond these public grounds is a botanic gar- 
 den. The main street which we follow now takes the name of Corso 
 Vittorio Emanuele. To the left in the piazza planted with trees 
 rises a monument to Vincenzo Lanza (1784-1860), a physician and 
 patriot, who was born at Foggia. After 5 min. we cross the Corso 
 del Teatro and reach the Piazza Federico II., adorned with a foun- 
 tain (Pozzo dell’ Imperatore), situated in the older part of the town. 
 The name is a reminiscence of the Emperor Frederick II., who pa- 
 tronised and frequently visited Foggia. The side-street immediately 
 to the right also contains a gateway belonging to the old palace of 
 the emperor, bearing an inscription of the year 1223 relative to the 
 foundation. Leaving the Piazza Federico II. and turning to the 
 left, we soon reach the Cathedral , which was originally erected by 
 the Normans, partly destroyed by an earthquake in 1731, and after- 
 wards re-erected in a modern style. Part of the old facade only now 
 exists. 
 
 A great part of the spacious , treeless plain around Foggia is used as 
 a sheep-pasture ( Tavoliere della Puglia). During the summer the flocks 
 graze on the mountains, and in October return to the plain by three great 
 routes (Tratture delle Pecore). These migrations, during which hundreds 
 of flocks may be encountered in one day , date from the Roman period. 
 Alphonso I. , who introduced the merino sheep , converted the pastures 
 into a royal domain in 1445. The number of sheep supported by these 
 pastures amounted to 4 ! /2 million at the close of the 16th cent., but owing 
 to the progress of agriculture, is now reduced to less than half a million. 
 
 About 3 M. to the N. of Foggia are the scanty remains of the ancient 
 town of Arpi , or Argyripe , said to have been founded by Diomedes, and 
 afterwards replaced by Foggia. 
 
 From Foggia to Manfredonia, 25 M., diligence once daily in 4 hrs. 
 (3 fr.) ; carriage there and back 16 fr. and fee ; railway projected. The 
 country traversed is bleak and monotonous, but presents several points of 
 interest to architects. The road passes S. Leonardo , 19 M. from Foggia, a 
 church and convent, converted into a commandery of the Teutonic Order 
 in the time of Hermann von Salza, with two fine portals, now used as a 
 ‘Masseria 1 , or farm-house, and very dilapidated. — About 2 M. from Manfre- 
 donia the road passes the * Cathedral of S. Maria Maggiore di Siponto , a 
 fine example of the Romanesque style, with a crypt. The interior, un- 
 fortunately restored, contains a ‘miracle-working 1 Madonna and numerous 
 votive tablets. This church is part of the scanty remains of the old Sipon- 
 tum , which was a Roman colony in B. C. 194. Other interesting remains 
 of the old town have been brought to light in recent excavations. This 
 district suffers from malaria. 
 
 Manfredonia ( Locanda di Donna Peppina), a quiet town with 8200 in- 
 habitants, was founded by King Manfred about 1263, and destroyed by the 
 Turks in 1620. It now contains no buildings of importance , but part of 
 the mediaeval fortifications is still well preserved. Owing to the sheltered 
 situation of the town , to the S. of Monte Gargano, the vegetation is very 
 luxuriant, resembling that of Sicily in character. 
 
 A road, at first traversing olive-plantations , and then ascending in 
 windings, leads hence to (IOV 2 M.) Monte Santangelo (2824 ft.), with a pic- 
 turesque castle, and a famous old sanctuary of S. Michele , where a great 
 festival is celebrated on 8th May. The chapel consists of a grotto to 
 which 55 steps descend, and where, as the legend runs, St. Michael appear- 
 ed to St. Laurentius , Archbishop of Sipontum, in 491. In the 11th cent, 
 the warlike Normans undertook pilgrimages to this sacred spot before they 
 became masters of the country. The bronze doors, with scenes from Script- 
 
to Foggia. 
 
 MELFI. 
 
 13. Route. 183 
 
 ure, bear the inscription : ‘Hoc opus completum est in regia urbe Constan- 
 nopoli adjuvante Dno Pantaleone qui fieri jussit anno ab incarnatione Dni 
 Millesimo Septuagesimo Sexto 1 (comp. p. 172). — From this point M. Calvo , 
 the culminating point of Monte Gargano (5118 ft.), is most easily ascended. 
 Between Monte S. Angelo and Vico lies the extensive and beautiful beech- 
 forest called Bosco delV Umbra , which stretches towards the sea. Farther 
 to the N. is Ischitella; towards the E., on the coast, is Viesti. The roads 
 are bad, and suitable for riding and walking only. 
 
 From Foggia to Lucera, 10^2 M. , diligence twice daily in n /2 hr. 
 (fare B /2 fr.); carriage there and back about 10 fr. — The road, which 
 is enlivened with busy traffic, ascends gradually through arable land. Rail- 
 way projected. 
 
 Lucera (Albergo cT Italia), a town with 14,200 inhab., the ancient Lu- 
 ceria , was regarded as the key of Apulia, owing to its situation. It is first 
 heard of during the Samnite wars , and in B. C. 314 it became a Roman 
 colony. It continued to be an important and prosperous town down to the 
 7th cent, after Christ, but was destroyed in 663. It was at length restored 
 by Frederick II. , who in 1223 transplanted a colony of Saracens hither 
 from Sicily, bestowing on them entire religious freedom. They were in 
 consequence staunch adherents of the Hohenstaufen family, and accorded 
 an asylum to the wife and children of Manfred after the battle of Bene- 
 vento. They were, however, subdued by Charles of Anjou in 1269 , and 
 in 1300, after an attempt to throw off the yoke of Charles II., were com- 
 pelled to embrace Christianity. 
 
 The town lies on a lofty plain , which slopes imperceptibly towards 
 the S. and E., and abruptly towards the N. and W. On the W. side the 
 plateau projects , forming a kind of peninsula , on which stands the ad- 
 mirably preserved * Castle (keys at the Municipio), erected by Frederick, 
 but dating in its present form from the reign of Charles I. It is an in- 
 teresting example of a mediaeval stronghold, and occupies the site of the 
 ancient arx. The "View embraces the plain bounded by the Apennines 
 and Monte Gargano ; to the N. lies the town of S. Severo, and to the E. 
 stretches the sea. The isolated mountain to the S. is the Monte Vulture 
 near Melfi', the summit of which commands a survey of the whole of Apu- 
 lia. — The old Cathedral, which had fallen into ruin in the time of Fre- 
 derick II., was restored in the Gothic style after the conversion of the 
 Saracens by the Anjous. The pilasters of the nave are in verde antico. 
 The right transept contains a beautiful figure of the Madonna in marble, 
 on a monument of 1605. Below the choir is a crypt. — A few inscriptions 
 dating from the ancient municipium, which far exceeded the modern town 
 in extent , are preserved in the library of the municipio, or town-hall. 
 There are slight traces of an amphitheatre on the E. side of the town. 
 
 On the road to S. Severo, 6 M. from Lucera, lay the Castel Fiorentino, 
 where Frederick II., after a reign of 38 years as a German king, died in 
 1250, in his 56th year. 
 
 From Foggia to Candela, 24^2 M., branch-railway in l^hr. 
 (4fr. 40, 3 fr. 10, 1 fr. 80 c.). Stat. Cervaro , see p. 185; Ordona , 
 the ancient Herdonia , with an ancient bridge, amphitheatre, tombs, 
 etc. ; Ascoli Satriano (Albergo di Roma, clean), H /2 M. from the 
 station (cab ^2 fr«)» charmingly situated , the ancient Ausculum 
 Apulum , famed for the victory gained here by Pyrrhus over the 
 Romans, B. C. 279; lastly, Candela, 
 
 From Candela diligence twice daily in 4*/ 2 hrs. to — 
 
 Melfi {Albergo Basil, by the Vescovado; Trattoria del Sole , with 
 a few bedrooms), with 11,600 inhab., picturesquely situated on the 
 slope of Monte Vulture. It possesses an old castle of the Norman 
 sovereigns, who often resided here, now restored by Prince Doria 
 
184 Route 13. 
 
 VENOSA. 
 
 as a chateau. The upper portion of the town was totally destroyed 
 by the earthquake ; a great part of the remainder has been re- 
 erected. Here, in 1059, Pope Nicholas II. invested Robert Guiscard 
 with the duchies of Apulia and Calabria. The magnificent Ca- 
 thedral of 1155, almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 
 1851 , has since been modernised. The town-hall contains a 
 fine Roman sarcophagus. 
 
 From this point the conspicuous Monte Vulture, an extinct volcano, 
 may be visited. Horace mentions it as the ‘Apulian Vultur' ; at that 
 period it formed the boundary between Lucania and Apulia. Calabria 
 extended hence in a S.E. direction to the Iapygian or Salentinian pro- 
 montory, the modern Capo di Leuca (p. 205); and S.W. lay the land of 
 the Bruttii, as far as the Sicilian straits. Since the middle ages, however, 
 the latter district has been named Calabria, while the ancient Calabria is 
 now the Terra d'Otranto. 
 
 The former crater of M. Vulture is densely overgrown with oaks and 
 beeches, among which two small and deep lakes are situated. By one of 
 these are the Capuchin monastery of S. Michele , most picturesquely 
 situated, and the ruined church of 8 . Ilario. On the farther side of the 
 principal crater rises the summit of the mountain, II Pizzuto di Melfi 
 (4359 ft.). The circumference of the whole mountain is about 37 M. 
 
 A road leads from Melfi to the E. to (151/2 M. ; or by a bridle-path, a 
 pleasant , sequestered route , 7 l /2 M. only) Venosa (poor inn), the ancient 
 Venusia , colonised by Rome after the Samnite war, now a small town 
 with 7400 inhab., picturesquely situated on the slope of Monte Vulture, not 
 far from the Fiuraara , the ‘pauper aquae Daunus 1 of Horace (Carm. iii, 
 30, 11) , and near the more considerable Ofanto , Lat. Aufidus. The Castle 
 was erected by Pirro del Balzo in the 15th cent. The abbey and church 
 of 8 . Trinitd, consecrated by Pope Nicholas II. in 1058, contain the tombs 
 of the founder Robert Guiscard and his first wife Aberarda, mother of 
 Bohemund. Frescoes of the 13th and 14th cent, have recently been discovered 
 in the church. The three principal chapels are still distinctly recognised. 
 The nave is 76 paces in breadth. The handsome court contains numerous 
 inscriptions , columns , and other relics of an amphitheatre, which lay in 
 the neighbourhood. The church has recently undergone restoration in 
 questionable taste. 
 
 Near Venosa, on the road to the Fiumara, Jewish Catacombs con- 
 taining inscriptions in Hebrew, Latin, and Greek, were discovered in 1853. 
 History also records that Jews were numerous here in the 4th and 5th 
 centuries. 
 
 An ancient structure of ‘opus reticulatum’ here is called the Casa di 
 Orazio , but without the slightest authority. Horace , the son of a freedman, 
 was born at Venusia, on 8th Dec. B.C. 65, and there received his elementary 
 education, after which his father took him to Rome in order to procure 
 him better instruction. He frequently mentions the ‘far resounding Aufidus' 
 in his poems, as well as the villages in the vicinity (Carm. iii. 4, 14), such as 
 the lofty Acherontia , now Acerenza (p. 207), 9 M. to the S.E., the woods of 
 Bantia , N. of the latter, now Abbadia de ’ Banzi, near Genzano, and the 
 fertile meadows of the low-lying Ferentum (probably Forenzd). Near Palazzo , 
 6 M. to the E. of Venosa, to the right of the road to Spinazzola, rises an 
 abundant spring, now called Fontana Grande , believed to he identical with 
 the Fons Bandusiae so highly praised by Horace (Carm. iii. 13). 
 
 On the wooded heights between Venusia and Bantia, in B.C. 208, 
 M. Claud. Marcellus, the gallant conqueror of Syracuse, and the first gen- 
 eral who succeeded in arresting the tide of Hannibal's success (at Nola, 
 215), fell into an ambuscade and perished. 
 
 Lavello , where King Conrad died in 1254, lies 9 l /2 M. to the N. of 
 Venosa, beyond the wooded slopes of the Monte Vulture. The traveller 
 may proceed thence by (19 M.) Canosa (p. 199) to the railway. 
 
185 
 
 14. From (Ancona) Foggia to Naples. 
 
 Railway. Shortest route from Germany and from N. and E. Italy to 
 Naples. From Bologna to Naples 19V2 hrs. — From Ancona to Foggia 
 (201 M.), see R. 13. From Foggia to Naples (124 M.) by ordinary train 
 in 8, by express in 5 2 /3 hrs. ; fares 22 fr. 40, 15 fr. 70, 8 fr. 95 c. — The 
 slow trains are always behind time. 
 
 The train (finest views to the left) traverses the Tavoliere di 
 Puglia (p. 182). From (5*^ M.) Cervaro diverges the branch-line 
 to Candela, mentioned at p. 183. 
 
 17 M. Giardinetto is the station for Troja , 7 M. to the N. 
 (diligence li/ 2 fr.), a colony founded in 1017 by the Greek prefect 
 Bugianus (p. 200); to the eleventh cent, belongs also the interest- 
 ing cathedral with its ancient bronze doors. At Ponte di Bovino the 
 train crosses the Cervaro. 
 
 21 M. Bovino, the ancient Vibinum , whose inhabitants were 
 formerly notorious for brigandism, lies on the hill to the left. 
 
 The train follows the left bank of the Cervaro. Three tunnels. 
 29 l /2 M. Montaguto-Panni. Montaguto lies on the left bank of 
 the Cervaro; Panni lies high up among the hills to the left. 
 33 M. Savignano-Greci , two villages loftily situated on opposite 
 sides of the Valle di Bovino , or ravine of the Cervaro. Then 
 a long tunnel. 39^2 M. Ariano ; the town is not visible from 
 the line. Three tunnels , beyond which we cross the watershed 
 between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Adriatic. 42 M. Starza. 
 Then a tunnel more than l*/ 2 M. long, and a shorter one. 
 50 M. Buonalbergo. Near (55 M.) Apice the train enters the 
 narrow valley of the Calore and follows its uninteresting N. bank 
 to (59^2 M.) Ponte Valentino. It then crosses the Tamaro , a 
 tributary of the Calore. 
 
 64 M. Benevento. — The Station lies 3 /4 M. to the N. of the town ^ 
 one-horse cab 50 c., two horse 1 fr., after dusk 60 c. or 1 fr. 30 c. — 
 Inns. Locanda di Gaeta, in the Piazza , dirty ; di Benevento in the 
 Largo S. Antonio, small, but clean. — Caffe Nazionale , opposite the pre- 
 fecture near the cathedral. * Trattoria in the new street leading from 
 the station to the town, last house on the right. 
 
 The sights of the town may be visited in 3 hrs., or less if a cab is 
 taken. 
 
 Benevento , a town with 21,100 inhab., situated on a hill bound- 
 ed by the two rivers Sabato and Calore , was formerly the capital 
 of a papal province of the same name. The narrow and dirty streets 
 are gradually undergoing improvement. 
 
 Beneventum , founded according to tradition by Diomedes, or by the son 
 of Ulysses and Circe, was originally called Maleventum , but the name 
 was changed when it became a Roman colony, B.C. 268. It lay on the Via 
 Appia, and became one of the most important places in S. Italy. In the 6th 
 cent, after Christ Beneventum became the seat of a powerful Lombard 
 duchy. In the Uth cent. Emp. Henry III. ceded it to Pope Leo IX., after 
 which it belonged to Rome. In 1241 the town was partly destroyed by 
 Frederick II. From 1806 to- 1815 Benevento was capital of the short-lived 
 principality of that name, which Napoleon I. granted to Talleyrand. 
 
 *Trajans Triumphal Arch , or the Porta Aurea , on the E. side 
 of the town, dating from A. D. 114, is one of the finest and 
 
186 Route 14. 
 
 BENEVENTO. 
 
 From Foggia 
 
 best preserved Roman structures in S. Italy. It was dedicated 
 to the emperor by the Roman senate and people, in recognition 
 of his having completed a new road to Brundisium , and some- 
 what resembles the arch of Titus at Rome. It is constructed of 
 Greek marble, and is 50 ft. in height, the passage being 27 ft. 
 high. A quadriga with a statue of Trajan once crowned the 
 summit. The reliefs relate to the history of the emperor. 
 
 Outside. Over the arch are two rivers , the Danube and Euphrates 
 (or Rhine). The frieze represents the triumph of Trajan over the Ger- 
 manic tribes. Above, on the left, assembly of the gods, resolving on the 
 adoption of Trajan by Nerva; on the right, conquest of Dacia, King Dece- 
 balus at the emperor’s feet. On the left Trajan triumphing over Dacia; on 
 the right the marriage of Hadrian and Sabina; 1. Armenia constituted a 
 Roman province; right an Oriental ambassador in Trajan’s presence. — 
 Passage : 1. Trajan sacrificing to Jupiter; r. Trajan bestowing a ‘congiarium’ 
 or largess on the people after his triumph. On the ceiling Trajan crowned 
 by Victory. — Inner Side. On the frieze a Dacian triumph. Reliefs : 
 Trajan sacrificing, Procession to the Capitol, Adoption of Trajan, Entry 
 into Rome, Trajan administering justice, Trajan in the Basilica Ulpia. 
 
 Following the Town Walls , which., as well as the town itself, 
 contain many relics of antiquity, we proceed towards the S. to the 
 Castle , erected in the 14th cent. , now partly used as a prison. 
 The promenade in front of it , which is embellished with a hand- 
 some obelisk , commands an excellent survey of the valley of the 
 Sabato and of the mountains. 
 
 From this point we follow the main street to the Piazza Papi- 
 niana. Another obelisk, re-erected here in 1872, is a memorial of 
 the Egyptian worship of Isis, which was very prevalent here towards 
 the end of the pagan period. — On the right is a suppressed Bene- 
 dictine monastery with the church of Santa Sofia , a circular edifice 
 of the Lombard period, erected about 732-74. It is now partly 
 modernised. The vaulting of the dome is borne by six ancient 
 Corinthian columns. Handsome cloisters. 
 
 We next pass the Episcopal Palace , where there is another obe- 
 lisk, and reach the piazza in front of the cathedral. 
 
 The ^Cathedral , dating from the 12th cent., is a beautiful 
 edifice in the Lombard-Saracenic style. In the wall of the clock- 
 tower is a relief in marble, representing a wild boar, the cogni- 
 sance of Benevento. The principal door of the cathedral is of 
 bronze, adorned with basreliefs of New Testament subjects. It is 
 said to have heen executed at Constantinople in 1150. The interior 
 is in the form of a basilica, with double aisles borne by ancient 
 columns. Ambos and candelabra of 1311. Valuable treasury. 
 
 Descending to the right of the church, we reach the Prefecture . 
 Continuing to descend to the right, we pass through an old gate- 
 way to the site of the ancient Theatre , now concealed by other 
 buildings. — Returning to the cathedral and going straight past 
 it , and passing the street leading to the station , we come to a 
 piazza embellished with an Apis , another relic of the ancient worship 
 of Isis , which the local savants have pronounced to be an emblem 
 
to Naples. 
 
 PONTI DELLA VALLE. 14. Route. 187 
 
 of the Samnite League. The traveller may now continue his route 
 along the hank of the Sabato, planted with poplars, to the ancient 
 Ponte Lebroso, by which the Via Appia once led to the town. It 
 is now the site of a mill. Near it, to the W., lie the ruins of 
 Santi Quaranta , an extensive structure of brick with a ‘crypto- 
 porticus’ and colonnades, once probably belonging to a bath- 
 establishment. 
 
 The road to the station crosses the Calore by a handsome bridge. 
 
 Near this, according to tradition , was the temporary grave of the 
 young King Manfred, who on 26th Feb., 1266, in a battle with Charles I. 
 of Anjou on the neighbouring plains , had lost his throne and his life 
 through the treachery of the Barons of Apulia and the Counts of Caserta 
 and Acerra. Shortly afterwards, however, the body of the ill-fated prince 
 was exhumed by order of Bartolommeo Pignatelli, Archbishop of Cosenza, 
 conveyed beyond the limits of the kingdom, and exposed unburied on the 
 bank of the Rio Verde. Dante records this in his Purgatorio (iii. 134). 
 
 The Railway follows the right bank of the Calore, and passes 
 through a tunnel. 36 M. Vitulano ; another tunnel. The valley 
 expands; to the left on the hill lies Torrecuso. 73 M. Ponte 
 di Benevento , where the high road to Benevento crosses the Ca- 
 lore by an iron bridge. Another tunnel. 76 M. S. Lorenzo Mag- 
 giore , on the hill to the right ; the line here crosses the high- 
 road from Naples to Campobasso and Termoli. 80y 2 M. Solopaca; 
 the small town (5100 inhab.) is pleasantly situated at the foot 
 of Monte Taburno (4095 ft.), iy 2 M. to the left. Before reaching 
 (84 M.) stat. Telese , we observe on the left the Lago di Telese , a 
 malarious marsh which poisons the neighbourhood. Telese, a poor 
 village on the hills to the right , is visited in summer for its min- 
 eral springs by the inhabitants of the district. Near it are a few 
 remains of the ancient Telesia , a Samnite town , once occupied 
 by Hannibal, but taken and destroyed by the Romans. It was 
 afterwards colonised by Augustus. In the 9th cent, the town 
 suffered severely from an earthquake, and was at length entirely 
 destroyed by the Saracens. 
 
 Near (86 M.) Amorosi the train enters the broad and fertile 
 valley of the Volturno , which is first crossed above, then below 
 the influx of the Calore. 90y 2 M. Dugenta , 2 l / 2 M. above which, 
 on the Isclero , is situated S. Agata de Goti , on the site of the 
 ancient Saticola. The defile between S. Agata and Mojano is 
 supposed by some to be the Caudine Forks , as the locality cor- 
 responds better with Livy’s description than the pass near Arpaia 
 
 (p- 10 ). 
 
 94y 2 M. Valle. The train ascends, and passes under the 
 *Ponti della Valle , an imposing aqueduct in three stories, about 
 210 ft. in height, and 25 M. in length. It was constructed 
 by Vanvitelli by order of Charles III. and his son, for the pur- 
 pose of supplying the gardens of Caserta with water from Monte 
 Taburno. The towers connected with it are seen on the hill to 
 the right. 
 
188 Route 15. 
 
 CHIETI. 
 
 The Abruzzi. 
 
 The train now descends to (97^2 M.) Maddaloni; the town 
 lies below the line; to the left a view of the Campanian plain. 
 Two tunnels. 
 
 IO2Y2 M. Caserta, see p. 9. 
 
 Beyond Caserta the train traverses the most fertile and highly 
 cultivated part of the Terra di Lavoro (p. 7), a vast plain covered 
 with vineyards, poplars, and various crops. IO8Y2 M. Marcianise. 
 
 112 M. Aversa, a town with 20,800 inhab., probably occupies 
 the site of the ancient Atella , where the Fabula Atellana , or 
 early Roman comedy , first originated. In 1029 it was the first 
 settlement of the Normans , who afterwards became so powerful. 
 On 18th Sept. 1345 King Andreas of Hungary, husband of Queen 
 Johanna I. of Naples, was assassinated by Niccolo Acciajuoli in the 
 palace of Aversa. The light and rather acid wine of Aversa, call- 
 ed Asprino, is frequently drunk at Naples. 
 
 1141/2 S. Antimo , 115 1 / 2 M. Fratta- Grumo , 118 M. Casoria. 
 Glimpses of Vesuvius to the left. The train passes through a 
 tunnel, and describes a curve round the city towards the S. W. 
 124 M. Naples, see p. 20. 
 
 15. From Pescara to Solmona and Aquila in the 
 Abruzzi. 
 
 79 M. Railway in 5 ! /2 firs, (fares 14 fr. 40, 10 fr. 5, 5 fr. 75 c.)$ to 
 Solmona , 47 M., in 3 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 5 c.). 
 
 Pescara, see p. 180. — The train ascends on the right bank of 
 the Pescara, the valley of which gradually contracts. 
 
 9V 2 M. Chieti. — The Station is about 4 M. from the town, which 
 lies on the heights to the S. (omnibus 90 c., in the reverse direction 
 60 c.); about halfway the road passes a ruined baptistery. 
 
 Hotels in the town: :; Albergo del Sole, R. I 1/2 fr., good trattoria ^ 
 
 Albergo Nuovo Palomba d 1 Oro. 
 
 Chieti , the ancient Teate Marrucinorum , capital of a province, 
 with 23,900 inhab., is a clean and busy town. From the Piazza 
 Vittorio Emanuele a promenade leads round the town, affording 
 magnificent *Views of the Majella group, the course of the Pescara, 
 and the hill country extending to the sea (the finest from the 
 drilling-ground on the S.). The order of the Theatines , founded 
 in 1555 by Paul IV., who had been Archbishop of Chieti, derives 
 its name from this town. 
 
 15 M. Manoppello ; 18 M. Alanno. — 20 M. San Valentino. 
 
 The Monte Amara (9121 ft.), the highest peak of the Majella, is con- 
 veniently ascended from San Valentino. Carriages are in waiting at the 
 station, in which the traveller drives to (15 M.) Caramanico (5 fr.), where 
 the night is spent in the locanda of Antonio Diurio, Parrocliia di S. 
 Maria, Str. del Popolo 1 (unpretending). Next morning the start should 
 he made in good time, as it takes 6 hrs. to reach the top. The descent 
 may be made by Gampo di Giove to Solmona in 8 hrs. (comp. p. 189). 
 
 24 l / 2 M. Torre de Passeri, picturesquely situated. 
 
 Connoisseurs of early Christian architecture should visit the abbey 
 of S. Clemente di Casauria , 25 min. from Torre de’ Passeri, a basilica of 
 
The Abruzzi. 
 
 SOLMONA. 
 
 15. Route. 189 
 
 the 12th cent. , with ancient sculptures. This was the site of the ancient 
 Interpromium , relics from which are still preserved in the church. 
 
 The valley of the Pescara now contracts to a narrow ravine, 
 enclosed by abrupt cliffs. 31 M. Bussi. 
 
 33 M. Popoli ( Locanda dell* America , moderate ; Posta ), a town 
 with 7100 inhab., situated at the junction of the roads from Pescara, 
 Aquila, Avezzano, and Solmona, and commanded by the ruined 
 castle of the Cantelmi , who were once masters of the place. A little 
 above the town the Gizio and Aterno unite to form the Pescara ; the 
 former, coming from the S., flows through the beautiful valley of 
 Solmona. 
 
 The train now traverses the richly cultivated valley, enclosed by 
 the Majella on the E. and the mountains of the Lago di Fucino 
 on the W. The strong, racy wine of the district is much esteemed. 
 
 36 M. Pentima. A short distance hence is the Cathedral of 
 *S. Pelino (keys kept by the canon at the village), an edifice of the 
 13th century. The architecture is very interesting, but the interior 
 has unfortunately been modernised. Old pulpit. Chapel of St. 
 Alexander of the 16th century. 
 
 On the lofty surrounding plain lie the ruins of the extensive ancient 
 city of Corfinium , once the capital of the Peeligni. In B.C. 90 it was consti- 
 tuted the federal capital of the Italians during their struggle against the 
 Romans for independence, and called Italica, but a few years later it had 
 to succumb to the Romans. The arches of an aqueduct are the most con- 
 spicuous of the ruins. 
 
 Beyond (39!/2 M.) Pratola , a considerable place, the train passes 
 the ancient cathedral of S. Panfilo. 
 
 42 M. Solmona (1568 ft. ; omnibus to the town, 3 M., fare 
 40 c. ; Albergo delle Strade Ferrate Toscane , moderate but indif- 
 ferent; Trattoria della Forchetta , in the main street), with 15,900 
 inhab., the ancient Sulmo of the Pseligni, the birthplace of Ovid, 
 who was much attached to this his ‘cool home, abounding in water’, 
 as he calls it, is picturesquely situated, being commanded on two 
 sides by mountains, and contains several mediaeval buildings of 
 architectural interest. The *TownHall , of the 16th cent., is a hand- 
 some Renaissance edifice with a strong leaning to the late-Gothic 
 style ; the facade is adorned with statues of popes. The palace of 
 Baron Tabassi , in a side-street, and numerous others, most of them 
 with Gothic windows, deserve examination. The church of S. 
 Maria Annunziata , and the facades of the churches of S. Francesco 
 d J Assisi and S. Maria della Tomba , though all more or less injured 
 by the earthquake of 1803, are also interesting. The church of S. 
 Francesco was built on the site of an older church, a Romanesque 
 portal of which, opposite the above-mentioned hotel, is still pre- 
 served, and serves as an entrance to the meat-market. Many of the 
 buildings destroyed by the earthquakes of 1803 and 1804 still lie 
 in ruins. 
 
 The Monte Amara (p. 188) may also be ascended from Solmona. A 
 good mule will carry the traveller all the way to the top. The route is 
 by Pacentro and Campo di Qiove (3-4 hrs.), whence the summit is reached 
 
190 Route 15. AQUILA. The Abruzzi. 
 
 in 5 hrs. more. The start from Solmona should be made very early, if 
 possible even before sunrise. 
 
 About 16 M. to the S.W. of Solmona lies Scanno , reached on a mule 
 in about 6 hrs. The picturesque route passes several villages, and then 
 ascends the wild and rocky ravine of the Sagittario. The latter part of 
 it skirts the lake of Scanno. The women of Scanno wear a peculiar costume. 
 
 48 M. Raiano . The line now turns to the N.W. (views chiefly 
 to the right), and follows the picturesque valley of the Aterno, 
 which is enclosed by lofty mountains. The train passes several 
 unimportant villages, traversing three tunnels and running some- 
 times at a dizzy height above the stream. Numerous caverns have 
 been discovered in the rocks. — 53 M. Molina ; 56 M. Acciano. The 
 train now ascends a steep gradient through a narrow ravine. 59 M. 
 Beffi , with a large castle (to the left) ; 62 M. Fontecchio , pictur- 
 esquely perched high amid the rocks to the right ; 65 M. Fagnano- 
 Campana. — The valley now expands. 69 M. S. Demetrio ; 74 M. 
 Paganica . 
 
 79 M. Aquila. — The Station lies at some distance from the town ; 
 omnibus up to the town 60 c., down to the station 50 c. 
 
 Hotels. Albergo del Teatro Nuoyo , tolerably comfortable; Sole, 
 both moderate, R. I-IV 2 fr. — Caff^ adjoining the Alb. del Teatro Nuovo. 
 
 Aquila (2398 ft.), founded by Emp. Frederick II. about 1240 
 as a check on papal encroachments, destroyed by Manfred in 1259, 
 and rebuilt by Charles I., now the capital of the province of the 
 same name, with 17,600 inhab., spacious streets, and handsome 
 palaces, is the most attractive and interesting town in these pro- 
 vinces. It enjoys a pure and healthy atmosphere owing to its lofty 
 situation, and is commanded by the Gran Sasso d’ltalia (p. 191), 
 which rises abruptly to a height of 6000 ft. 
 
 From the Piazza del Palazzo, on the left side of which is the 
 post-office, the Strada del Princ. Umberto to the right leads to the 
 Corso, which we follow in a straight direction to the church of S. 
 Bernardino di Siena. The *Fa$ade was executed with great artistic 
 taste in 1525-42 by Cola delV Amatrice. In the interior, on the 
 right, is the ^Monument of the saint, decorated with arabesques 
 and sculpture, executed by Silvestro Salviati in 1505. The 
 1st Chapel on the right contains a Coronation of the Virgin and a 
 Resurrection by della Robbia. 
 
 From S. Bernardino we descend a flight of steps and, passing 
 through the Porta di Collemaggio to the left, arrive in 5 min. at 
 the opposite monastery of S. Maria di Collemaggio. The Romanesque 
 *Fa$ade, inlaid with coloured marble, consists of three portals and 
 three corresponding rose-windows. The niches of the principal 
 portal contain several statuettes of saints. Contiguous to the 
 church is an ancient and remarkably small clock-tower. Interior 
 gaudily modernised. To the left is the Chapel of Celestine (keys at 
 the Municipio). Celestine V. was elected pope in 1294. His life 
 and acts have been represented in a series of pictures by the Cele- 
 stinian monk Ruter , a pupil of Rubens. 
 
The Abruzzi. 
 
 GRAN SASSO. 
 
 15. Route. 191 
 
 The handsome *Town Hall in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele 
 contains, in the passage and on the walls of the staircase , a 
 valuable collection of Roman inscriptions ; also portraits of natives 
 of the place who acted a prominent part in the history of Italy 
 in the 16th and 17th centuries. Several pictures of the old Aquilan 
 school, most of them restored, will interest the connoisseur. 
 
 The * Palazzo Torres , below the Piazza Grande, contains a 
 picture-gallery with an admirable ^portrait of Cardinal Torres by 
 Domenichino ; Stoning of St. Stephen by the same master, on 
 copper; Eucharist, by Titian , on marble. The Palazzo Drago- 
 netti also contains pictures, the best by Pompeo <T Aquila of 
 the 16th cent. 
 
 Ascending the Corso, a gate on the right leads us to the Citadel , 
 a massive square edifice with low round towers, constructed by a 
 Spaniard in 1543 under Charles V., surrounded by a moat. This 
 point affords the best view of the Gran Sasso, the town, and the 
 mountainous environs. (Application for admission must be made 
 to an officer.) 
 
 Between Aquila and the hill of S. Lorenzo, Braccio Fortebraccio 
 da Montone, the dreaded rival of Sforza, was defeated and wound- 
 ed by the united armies of Queen Johanna II. of Naples , Pope 
 Martin V. and the Duke of Milan, commanded by Jacopo Caldora, 
 on 2nd June, 1424; and three days later he died of his wound. 
 
 About 3 M. to the E. is the village of S. Vittorino on the Aterno , occupy- 
 ing the site of the celebrated ancient Sabine town of Amiternum , where 
 the historian Sallust was born. On an eminence which was once crowned 
 by the ancient Arx, or citadel, stands an old tower with inscriptions and 
 sculptures built into the walls. At the foot of the hill are remains of 
 a theatre, an amphitheatre, and other buildings of the imperial epoch, where 
 antiquities are frequently found. 
 
 A new road leads from Aquila through the Aterno valley , the wild 
 passe? of Mte. San Franco , the ravine of Totta , by Senariccia , and then 
 on the left bank of the Vomano to (47 M.) Teramo on the Tordino (p. 179). 
 
 The Ascent of the Gran Sasso dTtalia, P/2 day there and back, 
 is most conveniently undertaken from Aquila. Information is kindly given 
 by some of the members of the Italian Alpine Club, whose addresses may 
 be procured of the Sindaco , or at the Casino. (Letters of introduction 
 desirable. Simplice and Carbone are good guides.) We drive in 2 l /z hrs. 
 to Assergi , ride thence (mule 4-5 fr.) in 3 hrs. to the Campo Periculo> 
 where a refuge-hut is being built, and ascend thence to the summit on 
 foot in 21/2-3 hrs. The Gran Sasso dTtalia, or Monto Como (9816 ft.) is 
 the highest peak of the Apennines. In formation it resembles the limestone 
 Alps of Switzerland. The view is strikingly grand, embracing the Tyrrhenian 
 Sea, the Adriatic, the rocky Dalmatian coast, and the whole of Central Italy. 
 
 From Solmona to Caianiello (Naples). 
 
 80 M. Diligence once daily in 10 hrs., starting from Solmona in the 
 evening , from Caianiello in the morning. At Caianiello it corresponds 
 with the quick train to Naples. — From Solmona to Castel di Sangro y 
 25 M., two-horse carr. 12 fr. 
 
 The road traverses the plain as far as (5 M.) Pettorano , and then 
 ascends in long windings to Rocca Valloscura , a village situated 
 in a rocky ravine. Beautiful retrospects of the valley of Solmona. 
 
192 Route 16. 
 
 ISERNIA. 
 
 The Abruzzi. 
 
 After a farther ascent we reach the culminating point (4200 ft.) 
 of the road, the Piano di Cinquemiglia , a table-land enclosed by 
 mountains, and of the extent indicated by the name. In winter it 
 is frequently rendered impassable by snow for several months, and 
 in summer the temperature is generally low. Beyond this plain 
 the road inclines to the left, and Rivisondoli becomes visible. It 
 then leads to the right past Roccarasa , 2^ M. beyond which it 
 descends by long windings to the valley of the Sangro , the ancient 
 Sangrus. The village to the left is Rocca Cinquemiglia. We now 
 cross the river to — 
 
 Castel di Sangro ( Hotel du Commerce , in the Piazza), on the 
 right bank of the broad and turbulent Sangro, picturesquely situated 
 at the foot of lofty mountains. Except the old church of S. Nicola 
 by the bridge, and the ruins of a castle, the place contains nothing 
 noteworthy. 
 
 Diligence hence every evening to (35 M.) Lanciano (p. 180). 
 
 From Castel di Sangro to Isernia, 22 M. (diligence in 5 hrs., 
 fare 6 fr.). The road ascends the heights which separate the valley 
 of the Sangro from that of the Vandra , a tributary of the Volturno. 
 Picturesque view from the summit ; to the left, below, the town of 
 Forli is visible. The road then descends by the villages of Rionera 
 and Vandria , crosses the valley, and ascends a second chain of hills. 
 The summit commands a survey of the extensive valley of the 
 Yolturno and Isernia. 
 
 Isernia (Locanda di Pettorossi) , the ancient AZsernia of the 
 Samnites , formerly important on account of its secure position 
 on an isolated eminence, is now a closely built , dirty town , con- 
 sisting of one long main street. A few Roman antiquities are seen 
 near S. Pietro and elsewhere; and there are fragments of the an- 
 cient walls in the polygonal style. In the autumn of 1860 a suc- 
 cessful insurrection of the Bourbonists, characterised by many ex- 
 cesses, took place here, but was soon put down by Cialdini. 
 
 Archaeologists may from this point visit the ruins of the ancient 
 Samnite Bovianum (a theatre and temple), near Pietrabbondante. Road to 
 Pescolanciano 9 M., corricolo 6 fr. ; thence a bridle-path in 2 hrs. 
 
 From Isernia diligence daily to Campobasso (p. 181) by Boiano , the 
 ancient Bovianum Undecimanorum. One-horse carr. from Isernia to Ve- 
 nafro 6 fr. 
 
 From Isernia to the railway-station of Caianiello, 31 M. The 
 road at first traverses a hilly district , passing Macchia on the 
 right, and then enters the valley of the Volturno , which it crosses. 
 It traverses the broad valley on the right bank, and (15 M.) reaches 
 Venafro , the ancient Venafrum , a small town rising on a hill and 
 commanded by a ruined castle. The road continues to skirt the 
 mountains; the Volturno at length turns to the S., and we soon 
 reach the small village of Caianiello (poor inn , not suitable for 
 spending the night), a station on the railway from Rome to Naples. 
 
 From Caianiello to Naples , see R. 1. 
 
193 
 
 16. From Terni to Aqnila in the Abruzzi. 
 
 About, 56 M. Diligence twice daily in lOhrs., fare 13 fr. Those who 
 wish to visit the falls of Terni and catch the diligence above them, should 
 start about 2*/2 hrs. before it, taking care to reach the top not later than 
 3 4 hr. after the coach has left Terni. 
 
 This route, replete with very picturesque scenery, traverses the 
 mountainous district in the centre of Italy. The road crosses the 
 Neva just outside the gate of Terni, and begins to ascend at a 
 point (IV 2 M.*) where a narrower road diverges on the left to 
 Papic/no and the *Cascate delle Marmore (falls of the Yelino). At 
 the top of the hill, about 4V-2 M. from Terni , a footpath leads to 
 the left to the uppermost fall (comp. Baedeker s Central Italy). 
 The road then traverses a mountainous and wooded district on the 
 left bank of the Velino. Where it reaches the plain of Rieti, it 
 describes a long curve at the foot of the heights, as far as the point 
 where the mountains approach the river (a short cut, -available in 
 dry weather only, leads straight across the plain). The road now 
 crosses the Velino by the Ponte di Terria, to the left of which is 
 the influx of the Turano , and follows the right bank to (3M.) Rieti. 
 
 Another road, a little longer, but far more picturesque, diverges from 
 the height above the waterfalls to the left and crosses to the right bank 
 of the river. It soon reaches the beautiful mountain-lake of Piedilugo and 
 leads along its spacious bays to the village of the same name, this being 
 the shorter half of the route. The remaining part traverses mountain 
 and forest till it reaches the plain of Rieti, where it crosses the Fiumarone y 
 a tributary of the Velino, fed by several small lakes. On the right is the 
 lake of Ripa Sottile , on the left that of Capo d'Acqua. 
 
 Rieti ( Campana ; Caffe d* Italia), on the right bank of the Velino 
 (16,400 inhab.), the ancient Reate, was once a settlement of the 
 Umbri, and subsequently the capital of the Samnites, but no traces 
 of the ancient city remain save a few inscriptions preserved in 
 the town-hall. The cathedral , dating from 1456, contains a S. 
 Barbara by Bernini , and the monument of Isabella Alfani by 
 Thorvaldsen ; fine view in front of the edifice. Near Rieti is a 
 beetroot sugar manufactory , where the attempt was first made to 
 introduce this branch of industry into S. Italy. 
 
 From Rieti to Rome diligence daily at 9 a. m. via Poggio Mirteto to 
 Passo di Correse , a station on the line from Orta to Rome; and thence by 
 railway. 
 
 Excursions may be made from Rieti to the picturesque mountain scenery 
 of the Central Apennines , though not unattended by difficulties on account 
 of the indifferent character of the inns and roads. Thus to Leonessa, 19 M. 
 distant, erected in a lofty mountain ravine about the year 1252 ; thence to 
 (9V 2 M.) Cascia, said to be the ancient seat of the Casci, or aborigines of 
 the district; 7 M. farther to Nor da , the ancient Nursia , nearly destroyed 
 by an earthquake in 1857, with walls of great antiquity, birthplace of 
 Vespasia Pollia, mother of the emperor Vespasian, whose family monu- 
 ments were situated at Vespasia , 7 M. distant. St. Benedict and his sister 
 Scholastica were also natives of Nursia. 
 
 From Norcia mountain-roads lead to Spoleto and Ascol 1 Piceno (p. 179). 
 The return route may also be accomplished by Accumoli and Civitd Reale 
 through the valley of the Velino to Antrodoco , or by Accumoli , Amatrice , 
 and Montereale to Aqnila (p. 190). 
 
 From Rieti to Antrodoco (20 M.) the road winds upwards 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 13 
 
194 Route 17. 
 
 ANTRODOCO. 
 
 The Ahruzzi. 
 
 through a picturesque district in the valley of the Velino. Near 
 Casotta di Napoli is the hill of Lesta , with traces of very ancient 
 fortifications , said to have once been the capital of the fabled 
 aborigines. Cittaducale , 5^2 M. from Rieti, founded in 1308 by 
 Robert, Duke of Calabria, was formerly the frontier -town of the 
 Neapolitan dominions. The country between this point and An- 
 trodoco is remarkably picturesque ; the mountains are clothed with 
 forest, and their lower slopes with vineyards and olives. 
 
 About 4 4 / 2 M. from Cittaducale the road passes the Sulphur 
 Baths of Paterno, the ancient Aquae Cutiliae , which were regularly 
 frequented by Vespasian , and where he died in A.D. 79. The 
 Pozzo di Latignano , the ancient Lacus Cutiliae , was regarded by 
 Varro as the central point (‘umbilicus’) of Italy. The ancient 
 Via Salara here ascended the valley of the Velino by Ascoli to 
 Atri, the Roman Hadria. 
 
 Antrodoco, Lat. Interocrea , beautifully situated on the Velino, 
 is commanded on the N. E. by the lofty Monte Calvo ; on the hill 
 is the ruined castle of the Vitelli. The road to Aquila, 20 M. 
 distant, leads through a defile, enclosed by mountain and forest, 
 which has frequently been defended with success in warlike periods. 
 The scenery is fine the whole way. The valley becomes very 
 narrow. After 4M. we reach the watershed between the Tyrrhenian 
 Sea and the Adriatic. The road passes Rocca di Como and de- 
 scends into the valley of the Aterno. Aquila (p. 190), on a hill op- 
 posite us, at length comes in sight. 
 
 17. From Aquila to Avezzano and Roccasecca 
 
 (Naples). 
 
 From Aquila to Avezzano, about 35 M., a new road ; diligence daily 
 in 7 hrs. (in the reverse direction 8 hrs.). — From Avezzano to Rocca- 
 secca, about 42V2 M. ; diligence twice daily in 10 hrs. These diligences 
 correspond with the trains of the Rome and Naples railway, and the hours 
 of starting vary. 
 
 The road leaves Aquila by the Porta Romana, descends into the 
 valley of the Aterno, crosses the railway, and ascends gradually 
 through vineyards. Beyond Ocre it passes through a grove of oaks. 
 Looking back, we obtain a beautiful view of Aquila and the Gran 
 Sasso ; farther on we observe the Majella to the S.E. Numerous 
 villages lie scattered over the surrounding slopes. We at length 
 reach the lofty plain, and then (16 M.) Rocca di Mezzo , a miserable 
 village, where horses are changed. The road is level for some dis- 
 tance ; it then ascends and crosses the summit of the pass (3*/2 M. 
 from Rocca), not far from Ovindoli , a village picturesquely com- 
 manded by a ruined castle. 
 
 The road now descends rapidly in windings , commanding an 
 admirable *View of the plain of the Lago di Fucino. The castle of 
 
The ABruzzi. LACTJS FUCINUS. 17. Route. 195 
 
 Celano next comes in sight , and then the town itself , which we 
 reach in 3 / 4 hr. more. 
 
 Celano, a town with 7100inhab., is beautifully situated on a 
 hill, and from it the Lago di Fucino is sometimes called Lago di 
 Celano. The Castle (*Yiew), erected in 145(\ was once occupied by 
 the unfortunate Countess Oovella, who was taken prisoner by her 
 son Rugierotto. She was soon restored to liberty, but in 1463 her 
 domains were bestowed by Ferdinand of Arragon upon his son-in- 
 law Antonio Piccolomini, Duke of Amalfi, ^tnd nephew of Pius II. 
 Celano was the birthplace of Thomas of Celano (d. 1253), the 
 supposed author of the celebrated requiem, ‘Dies irae, dies ilia’. 
 
 The now drained Lago di Fucino (2181 ft.), the ancient Lacus 
 Fucinus , was once 37 M. in circumference and 65 ft. in depth. 
 Owing to the want of an outlet, the surface of the lake was subject 
 to great variations which were frequently fraught with disastrous 
 results to the inhabitants of the banks. Attempts were therefore 
 made to drain the lake in ancient times , but it was only very re- 
 cently (in 1875) that this object was finally accomplished. 
 
 The earliest sufferers from the inundations were the ancient Marsi, in 
 consequence of whose complaints Caesar formed the project of affording a 
 permanent remedy for the evil , but the work was not begun till the 
 reign of the Emp. Claudius. The bottom of the lake lies about 80 ft. 
 above the level of the Liris at Capistrello, and the plan was to con- 
 struct a tunnel, or emissarius , through the intervening Monte Salviano. 
 No fewer than 30,000 men were employed in the execution of the work 
 during eleven years. This was the most gigantic undertaking of the 
 kind ever known before the construction of the Mont Cenis tunnel. The 
 length of the passage was upwards of 3 ! /2 M., and for about l 3 /4 M. of that 
 distance it was hewn in the solid rock. The transverse measurement of 
 the tunnel varied from 4 to 16 sq. yds., and in other respects also the 
 work was entirely destitute of uniformity. The greatest depth of the 
 tunnel below the surface of the earth was 298 ft., and 33 shafts were 
 constructed for the admission of air and the removal of rubbish. With 
 a view to inaugurate the completion of the work, A.D. 52, Claudius 
 arranged a sanguinary gladiatorial naval contest, which was attended by 
 a vast concburse of spectators, but it was found necessary to deepen the 
 tunnel, and it was again opened with renewed festivities, as Tacitus re- 
 cords (Ann. 12, 57). Ancient writers stigmatise the work as an entire 
 failure, hut their strictures are not altogether well founded, for it was 
 obviously never intended to drain the whole lake, but merely to reduce 
 it to one-third of its original size. Serious errors had, however, been 
 committed in the construction of the tunnel, and especially in that of the 
 channel which conducted the water to the emissarius. Claudius died in 
 54, and nothing farther was done in the matter. Trajan and Hadrian 
 partially' remedied the defects, but the channel and the emissarius itself 
 afterwards became choked up. Frederick II. attempted to re-open the 
 tunnel, but the task was far beyond the reach of mediaeval skill. After 
 the year 1783 the lake rose steadily, and by 1810 it had risen upwards 
 of 30 ft. Efforts were now made under the superintendence of Rivera to 
 restore the Roman emissarius, but under the Bourbon regime there seemed 
 little prospect that the task would ever be completed. In 1852 the govern- 
 ment was accordingly induced to make a grant of the lake to a company 
 on condition that they would undertake to drain it, and the sole privilege 
 was soon afterwards purchased from them by Prince Torlonia of Rome. 
 M. de Montricher, a Swiss, the constructor of the aqueduct of Marseilles (d. 
 at Naples in 1858), and his pupil Bermont (d. 1870), and subsequently 
 M. Brisse conducted the works. The difficulties encountered were pro- 
 
 13* 
 
196 Route) 7. 
 
 AVEZZANO. 
 
 The Abru%%i. 
 
 digious, and the natives were frequently heard to indulge in the jest, ‘o 
 Torlonia seeca il Fucino, o il Fucino secca Torlonia’. In 1862, however, 
 the emissarius was at length re-opened. It is an extension of the 
 Roman work, but longer and wider, and constructed with the utmost 
 care. It is nearly 4 M. long, and a transverse section measures about 21 sq. 
 yds. The beginning of it is marked by a huge lock, erected in a massive 
 style. This is the outlet of the channel which is intended to keep the 
 lowest portions of the basin drained. A broad road, about 35 M. in length, 
 rsins round the reclaimed land (36,000 acres in extent) , which is con- 
 verted into a vast model farm, colonised by families from the prince's 
 different estates. 
 
 The road traverses the old bed of the lake and next reaches 
 Avezzano, a drive of 1 hr. from Celano. 
 
 Avezzano ( Locanda d' Italia, tolerable), with 6300 inhab., 
 possesses a chateau built by the Colonnas and now belonging to the 
 Barberini, and a few inscriptions at the Tribunale. It is a good 
 starting-point for a number of excursions, and particularly for a visit 
 to the reclaimed Lago di Fucino. ( Marco Fiorano is a good vetturino.) 
 
 An excursion to Luco , 6 M. from Avezzano, will afford the traveller 
 a good opportunity of inspecting the drainage operations. He should drive 
 to the entrance of the new outlet, and get the custodian to conduct him 
 thence to the ancient emissarius. — Luco, now an uninteresting place, 
 was the Lucus Angitiae of the ancients, and was called after a temple of 
 the goddess of that name. The site of the temple is now occupied by the 
 venerable Benedictine Church of S. Maria di Luco, situated on the N. 
 side of the village, and dating from the 6 th or 7th cent. Extensive remains 
 of walls in the polygonal style mark the boundary of the Temenos , or 
 sacred precincts of the temple. Fine view hence, as well as from all the 
 hills around the lake. 
 
 On the E. bank of the lake lies the village of San Benedetto, on the 
 site of Marrubium, the ancient capital of the Marsi , extensive remains of 
 which are still to be seen. 
 
 To the N. of the lake, rising abruptly from the plain, is situated the 
 double-peaked Monte Velino (8202 ft.), visible from Rome. At its base, 
 4 M. from Avezzano, lies the village of Albe , the ancient Alba Fucentia. 
 It lay on the confines of the territories of the Yestini, Marsi, and iEqui, 
 and having received a Roman colony of 6000 souls, B.C. 303, it became 
 the most powerful Roman stronghold in the interior of Italy. It occupied 
 three contiguous groups of hills. On the W. side a triple wall in the 
 polygonal style is still extant, while in the plain rises a vast tumulus. 
 Remains of the Via Valeria, which led from Tivoli to Corfinium by Alba, 
 of an amphitheatre, etc., are also traceable. The most important monu- 
 ment of antiquity, however, is the "Temple, which has been converted 
 into a church of S. Pietro , with eight Corinthian columns of marble in 
 the interior. / Fine view of the valley. 
 
 From Avezzano to Tagliacozzo, IOV 2 M., diligence once daily. The 
 road passes Scurcola (fine view from above the old castle) and the Campi 
 Palentini , where, on 26th Aug. 1268, the young Conradin of Hohenstaufen, 
 the last scion of that illustrious imperial house, was defeated, after a most 
 gallant resistance, by Charles I. of Anjou, who on the advice of the aged 
 Chevalier Alard de St. Valery had placed part of his army in an am- 
 buscade. Charles afterwards caused the beautiful, but now ruined church 
 of S. Maria della Vittoria O /4 M. from Scurcola, to the right of the road) 
 to be erected on the spot by Niccolo Pisano, a Madonna from which is still 
 preserved in the church of S. Maria at Scurcola. 
 
 Tagliacozzo ( Trattoria by the gate , on the left) lies on the margin of 
 a deep ravine from which the Imele emerges. The sources of the Liris 
 near Cappadocia may be visited hence on foot in IV 2 br. 
 
 From Tagliacozzo a horse or mule (6-7 fr.) may be taken to (1 hr.) 
 Rocca di Cerro , {2 x !i hrs.) Carsoli (Locanda Stella) , the ancient Carseoli, 
 
The Abruzhi . 
 
 SOKA. 
 
 17. Route. 197 
 
 with an ancient castle, and (l 1 /^ hr.) Arsoli , all of which lie on the ancient 
 Via Valeria. From Arsoli a carriage - road leads hy Vicovaro to Tivoli , 
 12 M. (carr. with one horse 7-8 fr.). 
 
 The drive from Avezzano to Roccasecca through the valley of 
 the Liris (to Sora in 5 hrs.) is one of the most attractive in Italy. 
 The road traverses the Monte Salviano, and reaches (7 M.) Capis- 
 treilo, where the emissarius of the Lago di Fucino issues from the 
 mountain. It then follows the left bank of the Liris. On a height 
 on the right bank lies (4 M.) CivitelLa Roveto , the capital of the 
 Val di Roveto , as the upper part of the valley of the Liris, as far 
 as Sora, is called. Then, to the left, Civitd d’ Ant ino, the Antinum 
 of the Marsi, with several relics of antiquity. To the right of the 
 river lies Morino , whence the beautiful waterfall of Lo ScMoppo , 
 0 M. distant, may he visited. Beautiful oak and chestnut woods 
 are seen in every direction. 
 
 A charming mountainous district is now traversed , and we 
 next reach (about 18 M. from Roveto) the town of — 
 
 Sora {Liri , Hotel di Roma), with 12,400 inhab., situated in 
 the plain, on the right bank of the Liris, which flows in the form 
 of a semicircle round the crowded houses of the town. The Romans 
 wrested the place from the Yolsci, and founded a powerful colony 
 here, B. 0. 803. The cathedral stands on ancient substructions. 
 On the precipitous rock above the town are remains of polygonal 
 walls, belonging to the ancient Arx, and also traces of mediaeval 
 castles. The town was the native place of several celebrated men, 
 and the residence of others (the Decii, Attiiius Regulus, the orator 
 Q. Valerius, L. Mummius , etc.). The learned Cardinal Caesar 
 Baronius was born at Sora in 1538, and died at Rome in 1607 
 as librarian of the Vatican. Sora forms, as it were, the key of the 
 Abruzzi. 
 
 The road from Sora to Isola, 6 M., traverses the well culti- 
 vated valley, following the left bank of the river. The abundance 
 of water here imparts a freshness and charm to the scenery which 
 are rarely met with in warm climates. To the left the Fibreno 
 falls into the Liris. 
 
 In the former stream, near its mouth, lies the Isola S. Paolo, on 
 which a monastery was founded by the Benedictine S. Domenico Abbate, 
 a native of Foligno. Hildebrand, afterwards Pope Gregory VII., was once 
 a monk here. The island is also supposed to be the Insula Arpinas, the 
 birthplace of Cicero, the scene of his dialogue ‘de legibus 1 . The dilapi- 
 dated abbey-church is said to have been constructed on the ruins of the 
 illustrious orator's villa. The latter was erected by his grandfather, and 
 embellished by his father, who devoted his leisure to the study of science 
 here, and it was therefore a favourite retreat of Cicero himself, and is 
 described by him in his treatise De Leg. 2, 3. In the reign of Domitian 
 the villa belonged to the poet Silius Italieus. The Liris was crossed by an 
 ancient bridge above the island, the ‘ Ponte di Cicerone \ one of the three 
 arches of which is still standing. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are several manufactories , chiefly of 
 paper (cartiera) , surrounded by well-kept gardens. The most 
 important of these is the Fartiera del Fibreno , founded by 
 
198 Route 17. 
 
 ISOLA. 
 
 The Ahruzzi . 
 
 M. Lefevre, a Frenchman, now Count of Balzorano. The gardens 
 connected with it contain the picturesque waterfalls (Le Casca- 
 telle) of the Liris and the Fibreno. The cool water of the latter 
 is praised by Cicero. From this point the road descends to — 
 
 Isola, a small town with 5900 inhab., which, as its name in- 
 dicates, stands on an island in the Liris. It is sometimes called 
 Isola del Liri to distinguish it from places of the same name. The 
 two arms of the river here form two magnificent waterfalls, 80 ft. 
 in height. That on the E. side, a view of which is obtained from 
 the bridge as the town is entered, is a perpendicular fall, while 
 the other and more picturesque cascade descends over an inclined 
 plane about 160 yds. in length. 
 
 Abroad passing the paper-mills above Isola winds upwards to (272 M.) 
 Arpino ( Locanda della Pace , near the Piazza, small, but clean), a finely 
 situated town with 11,700 inhab., the ancient Volscian mountain-town of 
 Arpinuin , and celebrated as the native place of Marius and Cicero. The 
 houses in which they were born are still pointed out to the credulous. 
 The Town Hall in the Piazza is embellished with busts of Marius, Cicero, 
 and Agrippa. A bombastic inscription here runs thus : ‘Arpinum a 
 
 Saturno conditum, Volscorum civitatem, Romanorum municipium, Marci 
 Tullii Ciceronis eloquentise Principis et Cai Marii septies Consulis 
 patriam ingredere viator : liinc ad imperium triumphalis aquila egressa 
 urbi totum orbem subjecit : ejus dignitatem agnoscas et sospes esto\ The 
 fountain to the right of the town-hall bears the cognisance of Arpino, 
 consisting of two towers over which the Roman eagle hovers. Weavers 
 and fullers are frequently mentioned in old inscriptions found here, and, 
 according to Dio Cassius, Cicero's father belonged to the latter handicraft. 
 Arpino was the native place of the well-known painteT Giuseppe Cesari 
 (1560-1640), more commonly known as the Cavaliere d'Arpino , whose 
 house is still pointed out. 
 
 The town consists of four quarters. The western quarter (‘civitas 1 ) 
 lies on an abrupt eminence, connected with the town by a narrow isthmus. 
 This was the site of the ancient Arx. On the summit stands a small 
 octagonal church, which commands a beautiful view. The town itself rises 
 on the slope of a still higher hill. The greater part of the ancient wall, 
 consisting of large irregular blocks of stone, broken at intervals by mediaeval 
 round towers, is still preserved, and may be traced throughout its whole 
 extent. The ascent should be made on the N. side. On the hill lies the 
 Civitd Vecchia , or old town. In the wall here is the Porta delf Arco , a 
 remarkable gateway with a pointed arch. 
 
 From Arpino to Roccasecca is a drive of 272 hrs. ; two-horse carr. 6 fr. 
 
 From Isola to Roccasecca, 13 M. The road continues to follow 
 the left bank of the river. To the right is the loftily situated town 
 of Monte San Giovanni. To the left lies Fontana; then Arce , and 
 Rocca d'Arce , the ancient Arx Volscorum , in a strikingly pictu- 
 resque situation. 
 
 From Roccasecca to Naples , see p. 3 et seq. 
 
 18. From Foggia to Brindisi and the Apulian 
 Peninsula. 
 
 Railway to Brindisi , 146 M., in 472-672 hrs.; fares 26 fr. 45, 18 fr. 50, 
 10 fr. 60 c. (comp. p. 178). — From Brindisi to Otranto , 54 M., in 874 hrs.; 
 fares 9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 85, 3 fr. 90 c. ; only two through-trains daily. — Ex- 
 cursions in the country are usually made here in two-wheeled S&iarraba's 
 
BARLETTA, 
 
 IB. Route. 199 
 
 (a corruption of the French 'char-a-bancs 1 ), resembling the Neapolitan cor* 
 ricolo’s. The average charge per day is 6-7 fr. , fee included, and the 
 average journey 30-35 M. 
 
 Foggia, see p. 181. On the right lies an extensive plain, the 
 Tavoliere di Puglia. Beyond it, to the S., rises Mte. Vulture near 
 Melli (p. 184). 
 
 12i/ 2 M. Orta Nova. 22 M. Cerignola , with 26,100 inhab., 
 uninteresting. Route to (ICB /2 M.) Canosa, see below. The sur- 
 rounding plain is richly cultivated, but entirely destitute of trees, 
 which generally form an important feature in Italian fields and 
 enhance the beauty of the landscape. Cotton-plantations begin 
 here. 32i/ 2 M. Trinitdpoli. The train then crosses the Ofanto , the 
 ancient Aufidus , the last river of the E. coast, with banks covered 
 with underwood. Between two ranges of hills to the right lies the 
 broad plain on which the battle of Cannae was fought (see below). 
 
 42!/ 2 M. Barletta (Locanda di Ettore Fieramosca), a seaport- 
 town with 30,200 inhab., picturesquely situated, contains a number 
 of well-built houses and churches. The market-place is adorned 
 with a bronze statue 14 ft. in height, said to represent the Emp. 
 Heraclius (according to others Theodosius), and to have been found 
 in the sea. The Cathedral of S. Maria Maggiore contains the tomb 
 of a Count of Barbi and Miihlingen (d. 1566), with a German in- 
 scription. S. Andrea and S. Trinith possess several ancient pictures. 
 The extensive Castello dates from the time of Charles Y. 
 
 In the wars between Louis XII. and Ferdinand the Catholic, Barletta 
 was defended in 1503 by Gonsalvo da Cordova and besieged by the Duke 
 of Nemours. During the siege, among other encounters, a combat took 
 place in the vicinity (between Andria and Corato) between thirteen on 
 each side of the most valiant knights of Italy and France, conducted re- 
 spectively by Colonna , and Bayard ‘sans peur et sans reproche 1 , which 
 terminated in favour of the former. 
 
 Canosa ( Albergo Qenghi , bad), with 16,200 inhab., on the slope of 
 a hill, lies 14 M. inland. Of the ancient Canusium , once a prosperous 
 town, a gate (Porta Varrense, on the road to Cerignola), ruins of an ex- 
 tensive amphitheatre, and other relics still exist. Numerous painted vases, 
 golden trinkets , etc., have been discovered in the neighbourhood. The 
 principal church of S. Sabino , with several small domes, contains a pulpit 
 and episcopal throne in marble and a number of antique columns 5 its 
 pavement is now several feet below the level of the street. In an adjacent 
 court is the tomb of Bohemund (d. 1111), son of Rob. Guis'card, one of 
 Tasso’s heroes. Extensive olive-plantations in the neighbourhood, which, 
 like the whole district of Apulia, also yields excellent wine. 
 
 About 4 M. to the N.E. of Canosa, on the right bank of the Autidus 
 (Ofanto) , towards the coast , once lay Cannae , where the Romans were 
 signally defeated by Hannibal , B. C. 216. The Roman army, under the 
 Consuls Lucius vEmilius Paullus and Caius Terentius Varro, consisted of 
 
 80.000 foot and 6000 horse , that oL Hannibal numbered 40,000 foot and 
 
 10.000 horse. After various changes of position the two armies engaged 
 on the right bank of the Aufidus, the right wing of the Romans and the 
 left wing of the Carthaginians leaning on the river. The Gallic and Spanish 
 legionaries opened the battle by a successful attack on the Carthaginian 
 centre, but Hasdrubal , at the head of the Carthaginian cavalry on the 
 right wing, quickly put the Roman horse to llight, and then attacked the 
 legions in the rear. Scarcely a single Roman foot-soldier escaped, 70,000 
 being left on the field, including JEmilius Paullus the Consul, and 10,000 
 being taken prisoner. Hannibal lost only about 6000 men. — In 1019 an 
 
200 Route IS. 
 
 . TRANI. 
 
 From Foggia 
 
 Apulian and Norman army under Melo of Bari was defeated at Oannso 
 by the troops of the Greek prefect Basilius Bugianus. In 1083 Cannae was 
 taken and destroyed by Robert Guiscard. 
 
 From Canosa a road leads to (14 M.) the well-built town of Andria 
 ( Locanda di Milone , near the road to Trani, tolerable), with 36,700 inhab., 
 founded about 1046, once a favourite residence of the Emp. Frederick II., 
 whose second wife Isabella of Jerusalem died here in 1228, after having 
 given birth to a son (Conrad), and was interred in the interesting old 
 cathedral. His third wife, Isabella of England, who died at Foggia in 
 1241, was also interred in the cathedral of Andria, but the monuments of 
 these empresses have long since disappeared, having been destroyed by 
 the partizans of Anjou. On the Porta 8. Andrea , or dell' 1 Imperatore , is 
 a metrical inscription, in letters of metal, attributed to Frederick : Andria 
 fidelis nostris aflixa medullis , etc. The old church of 8. Agostino and the 
 adjoining convent belonged to the Teutonic Order during the sway of the 
 Hohenstaufen. Andria is I 1 /? M. from Barletta (diligence twice daily in 1 hr., 
 fare fr.), and the same distance from Trani. 
 
 To the S. of Andria, on the summit of the pyramidal Murgie di Miner- 
 vino , are the ruins of the conspicuous and imposing : 'Gastello del Monte , 
 erected by Frederick II. who frequently resided here. This height com- 
 mands a beautiful *View of the sea, the valley of the Ofanto, Monte Vul- 
 ture, etc. A bridle-path (ib/z M.) ascends to it from Andria. — From 
 Castello del Monte a road leads to (9 l /2 M.) the town of Corato (28,900 
 inhab.), which is also reached by another road from Andria (9 M.). On 
 the road from Andria, about two-thirds of the way to the latter, a modern 
 monument called VEpitajio , in a field by the road-side, marks the spot 
 where the above-mentioned encounter between Colonna and Bayard took 
 place. From Corato to Ruvo, 3 M., see p. 201. 
 
 The line now skirts the coast. The country is luxuriantly fer- 
 tile, and is chiefly famous for large olive-plantations yielding the 
 finest quality of salad oil. The district where this is produced ex- 
 tends only from Barletta and Canosa, past Bari, to the neighbourhood 
 of Mola (p. 202). The culture of the olive is very profitable, but 
 the yield is extremely fluctuating. A first-rate crop, though very 
 rare, sometimes realises a price equal to the value of the whole 
 estate. 
 
 50^2 M. Trani (Albergo della Stella d’Jtalia , new; Alb. delle 
 Puglie ; Due Mori), with 26,900 inhab., is a well-built seaport. 
 The loftily situated ^Cathedral, built about 1100, still possesses a 
 Romanesque portal and beautiful bronze doors of 1175. Interior 
 barbarously modernised. The interesting Castello is now used as a 
 prison. Several synagogues afford an indication of the former 
 prosperity of the place and of its importance at the time of the 
 Crusades. The pretty ‘Villa ? , or public gardens, on the coast, con- 
 tains two well-preserved milestones from the Via Trajana, which 
 led from Benevento to Brindisi by Canosa, Ruvo, Bari, and Egnatia. 
 Excellent wine (Moscado di Trani ) is produced in the neighbourhood. 
 
 M. Bisceglie , pop. 22,600, with the ruins of a Norman 
 fortress and handsome villas. 
 
 61 M. Molfetta (28,600 inhab.), beautifully situated, an epis- 
 copal see, was once in commercial alliance with Amalfi. After the 
 death of Johanna 1. her husband Otho, Duke of Brunswick, was 
 confined in the castle here until released by Charles of Durazzo 
 in 1384. 
 
to Brindisi. 
 
 BARI. 
 
 18. Route. 201 
 
 From Molfetta to Ruvo, 11 M., via Terlizzi (omnibus). Ruvo (Giov. 
 Nanni , tolerable), with 16,600 inhab., the ancient Rubi, is famous for the 
 numerous and beautiful vases found in the Apulian tombs in its environs, 
 and now among the chief treasures in the Museum of Naples. The tombs 
 have since been covered up again. Collection of Giov. Jatta worthy of 
 a visit. 
 
 65 M. Giovmazzo , said to have been founded by the inhabitants 
 of Egnatia (p. 203), on the destruction of the latter. 69 , /2 M. S'. 
 Spirito and Bitonto. The latter, situated 4 M. to the W., a town 
 with 26,000 inhab., manufactures salad-oil in large quantities. 
 The interesting cathedral contains several tombs of the 17th century. 
 
 77 M. Bari. — Hotels. *Albergo del Risokgimento, R., L., & A. 
 2 l j-i fr., bargaining necessary; Alb. Cavour, with trattoria, R. l*/a fr. — 
 Cafes Risorgimento and Stoppani , both in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele. — 
 Beer , etc. , at Orsola Caflisctts and the Birreria del Bolognese , both in 
 the Corso Vitt. Emanuele. 
 
 Cabs into the town, or per drive, 50 c., after dusk 70 c. ; with two 
 horses 70 or 90 c. 
 
 Steamboats. Vessels of the Societti Florio leave for Brindisi aud the 
 Pirseus on Tuesdays, and for Tremiti, Ancona, Venice, and Trieste on 
 Mondays. Also steamers of the Soc. Bari , Soc. Puglia , etc., to Genoa and 
 Marseilles. 
 
 Bari, the ancient Barium, which is still, as in the time of 
 Horace, well supplied with lish (/Bari piscosi mcenia’), a seaport, 
 and the capital of a province, with 54,100 inhab. (‘commune’), 
 is the most important commercial town in Apulia. It is one of the 
 most ancient bishoprics in Italy, and is now the seat of an arch- 
 bishop. In mediaeval history it is frequently mentioned in as the 
 scene of contests between Saracens, Greeks, and Normans, etc. In 
 1002 it was wrested from the Saracens by the Venetians. Wil- 
 liam the Bad destroyed the town in 1156, hut William the Good 
 sanctioned its restoration in 1169. Bari formed an independent 
 duchy from the 14th cent, down to 1558, when it was united with 
 the kingdom of Naples. 
 
 The Strada Sparano, containing the new Ateneo, leads from the 
 station to the Corso Vittorio Emanuelb, which runs from W. to 
 E. and separates the closely huiit old town from the new town, or 
 Borgo. On the W. the Corso ends in the Piazza Garibaldi, a square 
 with a public garden in the middle; at the E. end is a garden 
 laid out in 1878, beyond which is the Old Harbour, now used only 
 by fishing-boats and other small craft. In the middle the Corso 
 expands into the Piazza della Prefettura, wliichis bounded on 
 the S. by the Theatre , the Palazzo di Citta , and the Tribunali (the 
 two last forming the wings of the theatre), and on the N. by the 
 Prefecture. The theatre is named Piccini , after Gluck’s rival, the 
 composer of that name, who was born at Bari in 1728. Passing to 
 the left of the prefecture we reach the Castello (now a prison), 
 which was built in 1169 in the reign of William the Good, and 
 afterwards repeatedly strengthened. The castello lies on the New 
 Harbour, whence a fine view of Mte. Gargano is enjoyed in clear 
 weather, Farther on is — 
 
202 Route 18, 
 
 BARI. 
 
 From Ancona 
 
 The cathedral of S. Sabino , originally a fine Gothic building, 
 sadly modernised in 1745. Over the altar of S. Rocco is a picture 
 by Tintoretto, and opposite to it one by Paolo Veronese. The lofty 
 campanile resembles the Moorish tower of Seville. — Near the 
 cathedral is the church of — 
 
 *8, Nicola , begun in 1087 for the reception of the relics of the 
 saint, which were brought from Myra in Lycia. The crypt was con- 
 secrated by Pope Urban II. in 1089; the church itself, a pillared 
 basilica in an antique style, with numerous later additions, was 
 iinished by the Norman king Roger in 1139. On the exterior are 
 tombstones erected to members of noble families of Bari , and to 
 Byzantine pilgrims who died here. The interesting facade is em- 
 bellished with statues of the Virgin, S. Nicola, and S. Antonio di 
 Padova (17th cent. ? ). 
 
 The Interior consists of nave and aisles with flat ceiling, borne by 
 double rows of columns , with galleries over the aisles. The transverse 
 arches in the nave did not form part of the original structure. In the N. 
 aisle is the Tombstone of Robert , Count of Bari , ‘protonotarius 1 of Charles 
 of Anjou, who conducted the proceedings against the ill-fated Prince Con- 
 I’adin, and was afterwards assassinated by a nephew of Charles of Anjou 
 on the very spot on which he had proclaimed the sentence (p. 41). He 
 was a member of the Chiurlia family , resident at Bari. — To the right 
 of the high altar is a Madonna with saints, by Bartolommeo Vivarini of 
 Murano, 1476. — At the back of the choir is the Tomb (erected in 1593) 
 of Bona Sforza , queen of Sigismund I. of Poland and last Duchess of Bari 
 (d. 1558), with statues of St. Casimir and Stanislaus. 
 
 On the staircase leading to the Crypt are some early Christian sar- 
 cophagus-sculptures representing Christ and the Evangelists (5th cent. ?), 
 which were perhaps brought from Mysia, — The crypt itself contains a 
 silver altar with interesting "Alto-reliefs, executed in 1319 for the Servian 
 king Urosius by Ruggero dalV Invidia and Roberto da Barletta , and 
 restored in 1684 by bom. Marinelli and Ant. Avitabili of Naples. Below 
 the altar is the vault containing the bones of the saint, from which a 
 miraculous fluid (‘Manna di Bari 1 ), highly prized by believers, is said 
 to exude. The festival of the saint, on 8th May, is attended by thou- 
 sands of pilgrims, chiefly from the Albanese villages. 
 
 The Treasury contains a beautifully illuminated breviary of Charles II. 
 of Anjou, the sceptre of the same monarch, and an iron crown, which is 
 said to have been made at Bari in 1131 for the Norman Roger. Rogfcr 
 himself, Emp. Henry VI. and his consort Costanza, Manfred, and Ferdi- 
 nand I. were all crowned with it in this church. — In 1271 Charles of 
 Anjou presented the church with a colossal bell, which Manfred had in- 
 tended for Manfredonia, but tradition reports that this giant was melted 
 down and made into live smaller bells about the year 1394. The present 
 bells date from 1578, 1713, and 1830. 
 
 The Lion in the Piazza, with the inscription ‘custos justitiae’ 
 on its collar, is the heraldic cognisance of Bari. — In the Istituto 
 Tecnico, Strada Abate , is the new Provincial Museum , containing 
 antiquities found in the vicinity. 
 
 Railway from Bari to Taranto , see R. 21. 
 
 84 M. Noicattaro. 89 M. Mola di Bari (12,600 inhab.), on the 
 coast. 99 M. Polignano a Mare is situated on a lofty and precipitous 
 rock , rising above the sea and containing several tine grottoes. 
 The finest of these lies under the new town (entrance by a small 
 
to Brindisi . 
 
 BRINDISI. 
 
 18. Route . 203 
 
 door in the old town ; key at the house opposite). 102 M. Monopoly 
 the ancient Minopolis, with 20,700 inhab., the residence of an arch- 
 bishop. The cathedral contains a St. Sebastian by Palma Vecchio. 
 The tower of S. Francesco commands a fine view. In the direction of 
 the sea there have recently been discovered several rock-hewn tombs, 
 the contents of which are now in the museum at Bari (p. 202). 
 
 HO 1 ^ M. Fasano , a thriving town with 15,400 inhabitants. On 
 the coast between Monopoli and Fasano lies the ruined town 
 (‘la citta distrutta’) of Egnatia , the Greek Onathfa , now Anazzo , 
 where a number of vases, ornaments, etc. have been found. The 
 stones of the ancient walls have been nearly all removed by the 
 peasants to build their cottages. The traia now enters the province 
 of Lecce or Otranto ( Terra d’ Otranto, the ancient Calabria, see 
 p. 184). 123 M. Ostuni ; 129 M. Carovigno; 139 M. S. Vito 
 
 d’ Otranto. 
 
 146M. Brindisi. — *Gran Albergo delle Indie Orientali, built by 
 the S. Italian railway company, on the quay, near the landing-place of 
 the P. and O. steamers, K. 3, A. 1, L. 3 / 4 , dejeuner 3 fr. — Albergo 
 d'Europa, in the street leading from the station to the p /2 M.) harbour, kept 
 by Michele Grapsa, a Greek, good and tolerably clean, R. and L. 2 ! /2 fr., 
 A. 40 c.} Angleterre, very dirty, and Vittoria, both in the town, and in 
 the Italian style. — Caffb Triestino. ' Osteria, at the harbour, corner of the 
 Strada Amena. — Cab from the station to the town ^fr., after dusk 1 fr. 
 
 Steamboats. Those of the Peninsular and Oriental Company touch at 
 Brindisi once weekly on their way to Alexandria, which they reach hence 
 in about 82 hrs. j those of the Austrian Lloyd Co. also touch here on their 
 route to Corfu, Syra, and the Pirseus (comp. R. 46). 
 
 British Consul: Mr. Lewis Joel , Pal. Skirmunt, Piazza Sedile 9 (10-3). 
 
 Brindisi , with 13,800 inhab., the ancient Brentesion, or Brundi- 
 sium (i. e. stag’s head), a name due to the form of the harbour 
 which encloses the town in two arms, was once a populous seaport, 
 and the usual point, of embarcation for Greece and the East. 
 
 Brundisium was a very famous place in ancient history. At an early 
 period it was colonised by Tarentum, and subsequently by Rome, B.C. 245, 
 and it formed the termination of the Via Appia, the construction of which 
 from Capua was nearly coeval with the foundation of the colony. Horace's 
 description (Sat. i. 5) of his journey from Rome to Brundisium, B.C. 37 j 
 in the company of Maecenas, who wished to be present at the con- 
 clusion of a new alliance between Octavianus and Antony at Tarentum, 
 is well known. At Brundisium the tragic poet Pacuvius was born, and 
 here, in B.C. 19, Virgil died on his return from Greece (some ruins near the 
 harbour being still pointed out to the credulous as the remains of the house 
 where he expired). The town , when occupied by Pompey, B. C. 49, sus- 
 tained a memorable siege at the hands of Caesar, who describes the event 
 in the first book of his Civil War. The fleets of the Crusaders frequently 
 assembled in the harbour of Brundisium , but the place soon declined 
 arfter the cessation of the crusades. It was subsequently destroyed by 
 Lewis, King of Hungary, in 1348, and again by a fearful earthquake in 
 1458, which buried most of the inhabitants beneath its ruins. 
 
 In modern times Brindisi has again become the starting-point 
 of the most direct route from Central Europe to the East, and bids 
 fair to become an important station for the carrying trade. The ex- 
 tensive harbour, admirably sheltered from every wind, is undergoing 
 improvement. The large steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental 
 
204 Route 18 .* 
 
 LECCE. 
 
 From Ancona 
 
 Co., etc., are enabled to enter and lay to at the quay itself. The N. 
 arm of the harbour, which once bounded the town and extended far 
 into the land, was productive of malaria, owing to its muddy con- 
 dition, and is now dried up. The entrance to the harbour is 
 divided into two channels by an island. In order to prevent 
 the harbour from becoming tilled with sand, the N. channel has 
 recently been closed by means of a substantial bulwark of solid 
 stone. The quarantine establishment and a small fort are situated 
 on the island. The fort may be visited by boat (in ^2 hr*)> a nd a 
 line view enjoyed from the top, and the trip may be extended to 
 the breakwater (in all 1 1 / 2-2 hrs., fare lt/ 2 fr.). 
 
 On a slight eminence by the quay rises a lofty unfluted 
 column of Greek marble, with a highly ornate capital, repre- 
 senting figures of gods. Near it are the remains of a second. 
 The former bears an unfinished inscription, containing mention 
 of a Byzantine governor named Spathalupus, by whom the town 
 was rebuilt in the 10th cent., after its destruction by the Sara- 
 cens. These columns are supposed once to have marked the 
 termination of the Via Appia ; but it is more probable that they 
 belonged to an honorary monument of the Byzantine period, 
 like the column of Phocas at Rome. The other relics of anti- 
 quity are insignificant. — The CasteUo with its massive round 
 towers, founded by the Emp. Frederick II., and strengthened by 
 Charles V., is now a bagno for criminals condemned to the galleys. 
 The remarkably picturesque remains of the circular church of S. 
 Giovanni , destroyed by an earthquake in the 11th cent., with colon- 
 nades, and decorated with frescoes, are still preserved, and will 
 probably be converted into a museum. In the Cathedral the nup- 
 tials of Frederick II. with Isabella of Jerusalem were solemnised in 
 1225. Several thousands of the participators in the Crusade of 1227 
 perished here. Brindisi possesses a public library, presented by a 
 Bishop de Leo, a native of the place. The environs are fertile, but 
 malarious. 
 
 From Brindisi to Taranto (p. 213), 24 M., a good road (one-horse 
 carr. 18-20 fr.), via One, the ancient t/ria, from which the Doria family 
 s said to derive its origin , a beautifully situated place with numerous 
 palaces. 
 
 From Brindisi the train runs in 1 hr. 20 min. , by stations 
 Tuturano , & Pietro , Squinzano , and Trepuzzi , to — 
 
 170 M. Lecce (. Albergo delta Vittoria; Alb . delta Ferrovia ; 
 Roma), the capital of a province, with 24,150 inhab., situated a 
 short distance from the sea, the seat of a bishop, with the cathedral 
 of St. Orontius, an ancient castle, the interesting Norman church 
 of SS. Nicola e Cataldo in the Camposanto (12th cent.), and other 
 handsome buildings. The Lyceum contains a small museum of an- 
 tiquities (vases, coins, terracottas, Messapian and Latin inscriptions). 
 The town, which is a dull place in an unattractive district, occupies 
 the site of the apeient Lupia. In the vicinity lay Rudiae, where 
 
to Otranto . 
 
 OTRANTO. 
 
 18. Route. 205 
 
 Ennius, the father of Roman poetry, was born, B. 0. *239, now 
 Rugge , a place of no importance. The poet, who died in 168, 
 was patronised by the Scipios, in whose burial-place at Rome his 
 remains were deposited. — On the coast lies the Castello di N. 
 Cataldo , 44/ 2 M. distant, a favourite point for excursions. 
 
 From Lecce a road (22 M. ; diligence daily in 3 hrs., fare 3 fr.) leads 
 by the manufacturing town of Nardb , the ancient Neretum of the Sallen- 
 tini, now an episcopal residence, or by Galatina, to — 
 
 Gallipoli, a seaport, with 10,600 inhab., beautifully situated on a rocky 
 island in the Gulf of Taranto, but connected with the mainland by a 
 bridge. It was founded by the Lacedemonian Leucippus and the Taren- 
 tines, and is the Urbs Grata Callipolis of the Roman geographer Mela, but 
 is called Anxa by Pliny. The cathedral is a handsome building of the 17th 
 century. The town was formerly celebrated for its oil, which was stored 
 for long periods in subterranean cisterns, and thence drawn off for expor- 
 tation in a thoroughly clarified condition. Date-palms are frequently seen 
 in the gardens of the handsome villas in the vicinity. — Steamers to 
 Brindisi and Taranto once weekly. 
 
 The train runs from Lecce to (2972 M.) Otranto in 1 hr. 
 50 min. ; stations 8. Cesario di Lecce , S. Donato , Galugnano , 
 Sternatia, Zollino , Corigliano ; 1944 / 2 M. Maglie ; Bagnolo , Can- 
 nole , and Giurdignano. 
 
 199 l / 2 M. Otranto, the Greek Hydrus , the Roman Hydrun- 
 tum , a colony and municipium, often mentioned by the an- 
 cients as a point of embarcation for Apollonia in Epirus , is 
 now an insignificant fishing town with 2100 inhab., and the 
 seat of an archbishop. The castle with its two towers was 
 erected by Alphonso of Arragon and strengthened by Charles V. 
 
 For a long period it continued subject to the Greek emperors, but in 
 the 11th cent, was captured by the Normans, who under Robert Guiscard 
 and Bohemund conducted from this point the siege of Durazzo (Dyrrachium) 
 in Albania. On 28th July, 1480, the then prosperous town was attacked 
 by the Turkish fleet under Achmet Pasha, grand-vizier of Mohammed II., 
 and entirely destroyed; 12,000 of the inhabitants were put to death, the 
 remainder carried off as slaves, the churches razed to the ground, and the 
 priests barbarously maltreated. The following year the Turks were 
 expelled by the Duke of Calabria, afterwards Alphonso II., but the town 
 never recovered from the effects of this cruel blow. 
 
 The Cathedral still contains some columns from a temple 
 of Mercury, which once stood near the village of S. Nicola, not 
 far from the town. The ancient mosaics in the church were 
 much injured by the hoofs of the Turkish horses which were 
 stabled in the sacred edifice. In a chapel are preserved the 
 bones of many of the ill-fated victims of the Turkish onslaught. 
 
 From the ramparts of the Castle the coast and mountains of 
 Epirus are visible in clear weather. 
 
 A road skirting the coast leads from Otranto to (31 M.) the Promon- 
 tory of Leuca , by Muro (to the right), and Castro , situated on a rocky 
 eminence by the sea, and therefore supposed to be the Castrum Minervae, 
 that point of Italy which, according to Virgil, was first beheld by Aeneas ; 
 then through a succession of gardens and vineyards to Tricase , B /2 M. 
 from the sea, Alessano , Montesardo , Patii , and finally S. Maria di Leuca, 
 a village on the site of the ancient Leuca, not far from the promontory 
 of Leuca or Finisterra. This is the Promontorium Iapygium, or Salentinum , 
 of antiquity , the extreme point of Apulia, commanding a noble prospect. 
 
206 Route 19. 
 
 POTENZA. 
 
 In line weather the lofty Acroceraunian mountains of Albania may be 
 distinguished. We may return for a change by Patu, Presicce, Uggento , 
 the ancient Uxentum , an episcopal residence , and Taviano, to Gallipoli 
 (31 M.). 
 
 19. From (Naples) Eboli to Potenza and Torremare 
 on the Gulf of Taranto. 
 
 About 162 M. — (Railway from Naples to Eboli, 50 M., in3hrs.; fares 
 7 fr., 5 fr. 25 c., 2 fr. 65 c.) — From Eboli to Baragiano, 35 M., by railway 
 in 2 V 2 hrs. ; fares 6 fr. 45, 4 fr. 55, 2 fr. 60 c. From Romagnano (the fourth 
 station from Baragiana) a diligence, corresponding with the early train 
 from Naples, runs daily to Potenza in 672 hrs. Information may be ob- 
 tained at Naples at the office of Mastrojanni, Str. Montoliveto 83, opposite 
 the post-office, or at Salerno next door to the prefettura. 
 
 Eboli, see p. 167. — The railway runs hence towards the E. 
 at the foot of the hills. On the right flows the broad and turbulent 
 Sele , beyond which rises the Monte di Postiglione , the Alburnus of 
 the ancients, described by Virgil as ‘green with holm-oaks’. 4 M. 
 Pontesele ; 12 M. Contursi; I &/2 M. Sicignano; 20 1 / 4 M. Buccino, 
 a town with 6300 inhab. , on the hill. 21 M. Ponte S . Cono, the 
 starting-point of the Calabrian ‘Corriera’ (R. 20). 25 M. Ro- 
 
 magnano; 28 1 / 2 M. Balvano ; S ^/2 M. Bella-Muro . 35 M. Bara- 
 giano , the present terminus of the railway. 
 
 The High Road from Romagnano to Potenza traverses a very 
 charming district as far as Vietri di Potenza (supposed to be the 
 Campi Veter es , where in B.C. 212 the proconsul Tiberius 
 Sempronius Gracchus fell a victim to his premature confidence 
 in the Lucanian Flavus) ; it then crosses the river Marno. To 
 the left is the beautifully situated Picerno , which was almost entire- 
 ly destroyed by the earthquake. The road now ascends gradually 
 to the crest of Monte Foi , and descends thence to — 
 
 Potenza (Risorgimento ; Croce di Savoia , cleaner than the 
 other; * Trattoria Lombarda), with 18,700 inhab., the capital of 
 the province of the same name, which forms part of the old Basili- 
 cata, a district nearly corresponding with the ancient Lucania. The 
 town lies on an eminence above the Basento , which rises on the 
 mountain Ariosa not far from this, and falls into the Gulf of Taranto 
 near the ruins of Metapontum. The ancient Potentia , destroyed 
 by Frederick II. and again by Charles of Anjou, lay lower down in 
 the plain, at the spot now called La Murata , where coins and in- 
 scriptions have frequently been found. 
 
 The Earthquake of 1857, which wrecked a number of towns and 
 villages in the Basilicata and occasioned a loss of upwards of 32,000 lives, 
 was attended, here with the most terrible consequences. The greater part 
 of the town, including the Lyceum, fell, and numerous lives were lost. In 
 consequence of wounds alone 4000 persons underwent amputations. The 
 result in thirty or forty neighbouring villages was not less disastrous. 
 This stupendous convulsion took place in a circular course in three 
 distinct shocks, of which the second was the most violent. A line drawn 
 from Monte Vulture to the volcano of Stromboli intersects the places 
 which suffered most; thus Auletta , Alena, Polla, Sala , Padula, Saponara , 
 
PERTOSA. 
 
 20. Route. 207 
 
 Sapri and many other villages were entirely destroyed. In the direction 
 of Mt. Vesuvius, towards Naples and Salerno to the W. , the concussions 
 were much more violent than in the opposite direction. The loss of life 
 was not less serious than that occasioned by the earthquake of 1783 in 
 Calabria. The shocks recurred in March and April 1858. 
 
 From Potenza to Acerenza, an interesting excursion : diligence to 
 Pietra Oalla (in 3 hrs., fare 2 fr.), and a walk of 1 hr. thence. Acerenza 
 CLocanda in the old castle), the Acherontia of Horace (comp. p. 184), 
 famed for its wine, occupies a lofty and beautiful situation. The crypt 
 of the cathedral contains four ancient columns of coloured marble and 
 pedestals with mediaeval reliefs. 
 
 From Potenza to Melfi (about 37 M. ; hilly road) a diligence runs in 
 
 9- 10 hrs., fare 6fr.), via Avigliano and Atella. 
 
 From Potenza to Grumo (p. 212), about 75 M., local communication 
 only. The road leads by Montepeloso, Gravina, with a collegiate church 
 and an old chateau of the Dukes of Gravina, and Altamura , with an old 
 Norman cathedral. 
 
 Potenza is about 30 M. from Calciano , which may be reached 
 by carriage via Tricarico , a town with 7000 inhab., in about 10 hrs. 
 
 From Calciano to Torremare , 40 M., railway in 2*/4-3 hrs. 
 (fares 7 fr. 25, 5 fr. 10, 2 fr. 90 c.). — 2 4 / 2 M. Grassano; 8 M. 
 Grottole ; 17 M. Ferrandina ; 24y 2 M. Pisticci; 32 y 2 M. Bernalda. 
 40 M. Torremare, see p. 216. 
 
 20. From ( Naples ) Ponte S. Cono to Reggio. 
 
 High Road from Ponte S. Cono to Reggio, about 275 M. The Vettura 
 Corner a delle Calabrie , which starts from Ponte S. Cono about midday on 
 the arrival of the early train from Naples, accomplishes this distance in 
 about 72 hrs., including the 2 hrs. by railway from Spezzano to Cosenza 
 (p. 209). There are, however, three seats only, which are almost always 
 engaged in advance. Diligences (‘Giornaliera") also run on the whole of 
 this route \ but passengers are always liable to be turned out before 
 reaching their destination by others desiring seats for a stage, unless they 
 prefer to pay for the whole of the longer stage. This malpractice also 
 prevails in Sicily (p. 226). In the bathing season, when the traffic between 
 Naples and the province is very brisk, travellers cannot expect to be taken 
 up at intermediate stations, but they may sometimes obtain a seat in a hired 
 carriage at a moderate charge. Vetturini from Salerno to Reggio require 
 
 10- 12 days ; hotel-expenses had better be included in the contract. 
 
 Ponte S. Cono , see p. 206. About 3 M. from Ponte S. Cono we 
 cross the Negro , the ancient Tanager , and reach the cross-roads Bivio 
 di Auletta (Locanda della Posto). The poor village of Auletta 
 (3000 inhab.) lies on a hill to the left. The dilapidated church 
 was destroyed by the appalling, earthquake of Dec. 12th, 1857, 
 through the effects of which, direct and indirect (exposure, hunger, 
 etc.), no fewer than 40,000 people perished in the district of Sala 
 and the valley of the Diano alone. 
 
 Beyond Auletta lies the village of Pertosa, which was partially 
 destroyed in 1857. Below the village is a large cavern, dedicated 
 to St. Michael, whence, after a subterranean course of l*/ 2 M., the 
 Negro precipitates itself into a gorge. Beyond Pertosa the road 
 crosses a deep ravine, through which an arm of the Negro flows, 
 by II Ponte di Campestrino , a viaduct of seven arches, and then 
 ascends the mountain in zigzags. A little way beyond the cul- 
 
908 Route 20. 
 
 ROTONRA. 
 
 From Naples 
 
 minating point a charming view is disclosed of the valley of the 
 Diano, to the S., into which the road now descends. On entering 
 it, we leave the beautifully situated Polla, the ancient Forum 
 Popilii , which was almost entirely destroyed in 1857, to the right. 
 The valley, 15 M. in length, 8 M. in width, is traversed by the 
 Negro, here named the Calore , and is remarkable for its fertility. 
 Numerous villages are situated on the heights on both sides. The 
 road ascends more rapidly. On the left lies Atena , the ancient 
 Atina in Lucania, with remains of an amphitheatre, walls, and 
 towers, but almost entirely destroyed by the earthquake of 1857. 
 Then to the left Sala ( Albergo in the Piazza, tolerable), the seat 
 of a sub-prefect, picturesquely situated on a height. On an isolated 
 eminence, nearly opposite, on the other bank of the river, which 
 is crossed by the Ponte di Silla, an ancient Roman bridge, rises 
 the small town of Diano, the ancient Tegianum , whence the valley 
 derives its name. To the left, 44 M. from Eboli, lies Padula , 
 below which are the shattered ruins of the Certosa di S. Lorenzo. 
 
 From Sala and Padula beautiful routes cross the Monte S. Elia to the 
 picturesque Valley of Marsico ; but until quite recently they were unfortun- 
 ately not unattended with danger, and previous enquiry should therefore be 
 made of the prefetto or sindaco as to the state of the country. Towards the 
 N. the valley is commanded by the town of Marsico (11,300 inhab.), formerly 
 a notorious haunt of brigands. After a ride of 4-5 hrs. across the fertile 
 plain the traveller reaches Saponara , situated on a steep hill, at the foot 
 of which, in the Agri valley, once lay the ancient Grumentum. The ruins 
 are insignificant, but a rich treasure of vases, inscriptions, and gems has 
 been found among them. The village was almost entirely destroyed by 
 the earthquake in 1857. — Opposite, towards the S.W., is Viggiano , 
 famous for its musicians, who are to be met with in all parts of the 
 world, particularly in New York, with their harps, guitars, flutes, etc. 
 Of an evening the village itself resounds with music, singing, and dancing. 
 — Moliterno on the high road is 3 M. from Saponara (‘giornaliera’ to 
 Sala in 6 hrs.). 
 
 At Casalnuovo the ascent begins, and the road at length 
 crosses the rivulet Trecchina to Lagonegro , a small town with 
 4600 inhab., in a wild situation, amidst lofty mountains. The 
 French gained a victory over the Neapolitans here in 1806, after 
 which they committed the most savage excesses. The road now 
 winds through dark and profound ravines, passing to the left of 
 the Lago di Serino y the ancient Lacus Niger , in which the Sinno , 
 the Siris of the ancients, takes its rise. The next village, Lauria , 
 lies at the base of a lofty mountain , opposite the huge Monte 
 Sirino , and is surrounded by vineyards. Then Castelluccio , on an 
 eminence above a branch of the Lao , the ancient Laos, environed 
 by dense woods. 
 
 93 M. Rotonda, with 4900 inhab. We now traverse the long 
 and desolate table-land of Campo Tenese where the Neapolitans 
 fled before the French general Regnier in 1806. A path winds 
 downwards from this point, and passes through the narrow valley 
 at the base of Monte Pollino (7326 ft.) , on the W. side of which 
 Morano , the ancient Muranum , is picturesquely situated. 
 
to Reggio. 
 
 COSENZA. 
 
 20. Route. 209 
 
 109 M. Castrovillari , with 9600 inhab., on a hill, surrounded 
 by lofty mountains, with an ancient Norman castle, is next reached. 
 
 Beyond Castrovillari the high road leads through a well- 
 cultivated district , passing Cammarata , to Spezzano , where we 
 reach the Railway from Buffaloria to Cosenza mentioned at p. 218, 
 by which we continue the journey (from Spezzano to Cosenza, 
 34 M., in 2y 4 hrs. ; fares 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 45 c.). The train 
 ascends the valley of the Crati , crossing several of its tributaries. 
 Stations: Tarsia , S. Marco Argentano , Mongrassano - Cervico. 
 
 Lattarico , Bisignano , Montalto Uffugo , Rende S. Fili , and Cosenza. 
 
 150 M. Cosenza (*Albergo dei Due Lionetti ), the ancient Con - 
 sentia , once the principal city of the Bruttii, is now the capital of 
 the province of the same name, with 15,200 inhab., and an archi- 
 episcopal residence , containing well-built houses and palaces of 
 wealthy landed-proprietors and manufacturers. It lies on the N. 
 slope of a hill which separates the Crati from the Busento above 
 the confluence of these streams. The town is commanded by a 
 castle (fine view), the walls of which, though 9 ft. in thickness, 
 were unable to resist the shock of the last earthquake. Shocks are 
 felt here almost every year. In 1181 the town was destroyed by 
 an earthquake, and again on 4th Feb. 1783, when upwards of 
 30,000 persons perished in this district. Serious damage was also 
 sustained from the earthquakes of 1854 and 1870. 
 
 The Cathedral contains the tomb of Louis III. of Anjou, who 
 died here in 1435, eighteen months after his marriage with 
 Margaret of Savoy. — On the piazza in front of the Prefettura 
 a monument, with an allegorical figure of Liberty by Gius. Pac- 
 chioni of Bologna, was erected in 1879 to the Brothers Bandiera 
 and other participators in the Calabrian rising of 1844. 
 
 Alaric, King of the West Goths, died at Cosenza in 410, after 
 he had plundered Rome and made an attempt to pass over into 
 Sicily. His coffin and his treasures are said to have been buried 
 in the bed of the river Buxentius (Busento). The site is unknown, 
 hut a tradition of Cosenza places it at the union of the Busento 
 and the Crati. 
 
 From Cosenza to Paola (p. 222), where the steamers touch four times 
 weekly, a drive of 3*/2 hrs. (seat in a carriage on these days 5 fr.). 
 
 To the E. of Cosenza rises the Sila, a lofty and wooded range of 
 mountains, extending about 37 M. from N. to S., 25 M. from E. to W., 
 attaining a height of 6200 ft. , and embracing an extensive network 
 of valleys. These mountains, which consist of granite and gneiss, are 
 remarkable for their beauty and fertility $ their slopes are studded with 
 numerous villages, while higher up they are clothed with chestnuts, oaks, 
 beeches, and pines. The E. and S. slopes descend to the Gulf of Taranto. 
 In ancient times these mountains supplied the Athenians and Sicilians 
 with wood for ship-building , and they were famed for their cattle. The 
 snow does not disappear from the higher regions until the latter end 
 of May, or June, after which they afford a delightful summer abode to 
 the natives with their flocks. This beautiful district, which has very 
 rarely been explored by travellers, is still in a very primitive condition. 
 Letters of introduction to influential inhabitants should be procured at 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 14 
 
210 Route 20. 
 
 ROGLIANO. 
 
 From Naples 
 
 Naples or Messina by intending explorers. The best months for the 
 tour are July, August , and September. Either Cosenza or Cotrone 
 (p. 218) may be taken as a starting-point. Fine scenery and picturesque 
 costumes. 
 
 At Cosenza the road begins to ascend, traversing well-culti- 
 vated land. The heights on each side are clothed with oaks and 
 chestnuts. 
 
 178 M. Rogliano, a town of 5200 inhab. on a hill to the 
 left, commands a charming view of the fertile country and the 
 surrounding mountains, above which on the right rises the M. Co - 
 cuzzo (5085 ft.). The road descends into the ravine of the Sa- 
 il uto , the ancient Sabutus , ascends Le Crocelle di Agrifolio , an 
 abrupt ridge of the Apennines, and leads by Carpanzano , Coraci , 
 Arena Bianca , and through ravines and forest, to — 
 
 203 M. Tiriolo, a town with 3600 inhab., loftily situated on 
 the watershed between the Corace , which falls into the bay of 
 Squillace, and the Lamato , which descends to the bay of S. Eufe- 
 mia, the ancient Sinus Terinaeus. Near Tiriolo, a name perhaps 
 derived from the Ager Taurianus , numerous coins and other anti- 
 quities have been found. In 1640 a bronze tablet (now in the 
 imperial collection at Vienna) was discovered here, bearing the 
 Senatusconsultum against the Bacchanalia, of B.C. 186, mentioned 
 by Livy (xxxix. 18). 
 
 Before Tiriolo is reached, a road to the left crosses the river Corace and 
 leads to (9V2 M.) Catanzaro (diligence, see p. 219). 
 
 To the right a road leads to (11 M.) Nicastro , an episcopal town on 
 the hill -side, in the now ruined castle of which Frederick II. once 
 for several years confined his son, the German king Henry VII., who had 
 rebelled against him in 1235. The latter died at Martorano in 1242, and 
 was buried at Cosenza. Towards the sea, 3 M. from Nicastro, lies S. 
 Eufemia , with a celebrated Benedictine monastery founded by Robert 
 Guiscard, but destroyed by the earthquake of 1638. 
 
 The road to Reggio traverses a chain of hills, and then crosses 
 the Lamato , the right bank of which it skirts for some distance 
 commanding almost uninterrupted views of the bays of Squillace 
 and S. Eufemia, which are here barely 19 M. apart. > 
 
 We next pass Casino Chiriaco and cross the plain of Maida, 
 where in 1806 the English auxiliaries of the Bourbons under 
 Sir John Stuart defeated the French under Regnier and drove 
 them out of Calabria. The road crosses the fertile , but un- 
 healthy plain by Francavilla to Torre Masdea. 
 
 225 M. Pizzo is a small town with 8400 inhab., situated on a 
 sandstone rock on the coast. Below it are the ruins of the old 
 castle where Joachim Murat, king of Naples, who had been com- 
 pelled to land here the day before, instead of at Salerno as he had 
 intended, was shot on 13th Oct. 1815. His remains were interred 
 in the church at Pizzo. — The Naples and Messina steamers touch 
 here (p. 223). 
 
 A bridle-path leads hence to Tropea , beautifully situated near the 
 Capo Vaticano , whence the Lipari Islands (R. 36) may be visited. 
 
 The road, running near the coast, next leads to — 
 
to Reggio. 
 
 PALMI. 
 
 20. Route. 21 1 
 
 234^2 M. Monteleone (Albergo dr Italia), a loftily situated town 
 with 11,800 inhab., which was much damaged by the earthquake 
 of 1783. The old castle was erected by Frederick II. Pleasant 
 promenade commanding a charming view of the sea, Sicily, etc. 
 
 A road leading N. to the coast (3 M.) passes through the village of 
 Bivona , on the site of the ancient Hipponium , which was afterwards the 
 Roman colony Vibo Valentia , destroyed by the Saracens in 983. 
 
 The road now traverses a hilly district to — 
 
 244 M. Mileto, once the favourite residence of Count Roger of 
 Sicily, whose son, King Roger, was born here. Pop. 4800. It con- 
 tains the ruins of the abbey of S. Trinith founded by him, where 
 his remains and those of his first wife Eremberga formerly reposed 
 in two sarcophagi which are now in the museum at Naples. • — 
 The mountains of Sicily, and particularly the summit of .Etna, 
 now become conspicuous in the horizon. 
 
 From Mileto a mountain-path leads E. to the (5 M.) grand ruins of 
 the once celebrated monastery of Santo Ste/ano del Bosco , situated in a 
 lonely valley at the foot of the Apennines. Near the neighbouring village 
 of Soriano are the extensive ruins of the Dominican monastery of S. Do- 
 menico Soriano , also destroyed by the earthquake of 1783} and, on the 
 farther side of the low ridge of Monte Astore , the remains of the Certosa , 
 in which St. Bruno established his austere order of Carthusians in 1094, 
 and where he died and was interred in 1101. 
 
 From Mileto the road gradually descends from the heights 
 bounding the bay of (jioja on the N., and reaches (233 M.) Rosarno. 
 The picturesquely situated town (3800 inhab.) was destroyed by the 
 earthquake of 1783. The plain is then traversed to Oioia Tauro , 
 which occupies the site of the ancient Metaurum , a desolate looking 
 place, situated on the coast to the right, and an extensive depot of 
 oil. Owing to the prevalence of malaria here, the workmen always 
 spend the night at Palmi. We now cross the Marro , the ancient 
 Metaurus , a river famed for its fish. The earthquake of 1783 was 
 particularly destructive in this neighbourhood. The earth opened in 
 many places, swallowing up houses entire, and filling up several 
 valleys. — On the coast to the right, not far from the road, on a 
 cliff rising perpendicularly from the sea, stands the singularly 
 picturesque town of — 
 
 269M. Palmi (Albergo Plutini), with 10,500 inhab., surrounded 
 by orange and olive plantations, and affording beautiful views of 
 the coast and the island of Sicily, particularly from a ^Terrace on 
 the sea at the end of the main street. 
 
 The town is situated about halfway up the : Monte Elia, which 
 commands a superb view of the Faro , the castle of Scilla , the town and 
 harbour of Messina, and the majestic .Etna in the background. The N. 
 coast of Sicily is visible as far as ' Milazzo *, out at sea are Stromboli aod 
 the Lipari Islands} to the N. the bay of Gioia as far as Capo Vaticano. 
 If the traveller on the arrival of the diligence at Palmi descends to the 
 sea , and at the farther end of the main street ascends to the right by a 
 path through olive plantations (which a carabiniere may be asked to point 
 out) , he may reach the top of the hill , stay 10 min. on the top , and 
 regain the road before the diligence comes up. (The conductor should of 
 course be told of the traveller’s intention beforehand.) Those who prefer 
 leaving the diligence at Palmi and paying a longer visit to the Monte Elia 
 
 14 * 
 
212 Route 20. 
 
 SCILLA. 
 
 will have little difficulty in procuring a seat in a carriage at a later hour, 
 as the road between Palmi, Bagnara, and Reggio is always much frequented. 
 
 To the S.E. of Palmi lies (2V‘2 M.) Seminara , which has been the 
 scene of two important conflicts. In 1495 the French army defeated that 
 of King Ferdinand II. under Gonsalvo da Cordova, and on 21st April 
 1503 , the French were on nearly the same spot routed by the Spaniards 
 under Ugo de Cardona, one of Gonsalvo’s most able generals. 
 
 The road from Palmi to Reggio, traversing chestnut and olive 
 plantations, and affording a succession of views of the sea and the 
 coast, is one of the most beautiful on the Mediterranean. It crosses 
 the Monte Elia (see above), on the S. slope of which is situated 
 Bagnara ( Locanda della Stella , tolerable), and next reaches — 
 
 260 M. Scilla ( Locanda di Baviera on the Marina, well spoken 
 of ; a relative of the landlord is recommended as a guide to Aspro- 
 monte), the ancient Scylla , with 7700 inhab. The castle, situated 
 on a promontory commanding the town, once the seat of the 
 princes of Scilla, was occupied by the English after the battle of 
 Maida (p. 210), and defended for 18 months (until 1808) against 
 the French. Fine view. The silk and wine produced here enjoy a 
 high reputation. Numerous swordfish (pesce spada) are caught here 
 in July. To Messina, see p. 228. 
 
 The rock of Scylla , represented in Homer’s Odyssey as a roaring 
 and voracious sea-monster, — a beautiful virgin above, and a monster 
 with a wolfs body and dolphin’s tail below — is depicted by the poets 
 in conjunction with the opposite Charybdis as fraught with imminent 
 danger to all passing mariners. The currents and eddies in the straits are 
 still very rapid, but it is now believed that the Charybdis of the ancients 
 is by no means exactly opposite to the whirlpool of Scylla, as the 
 saying 4 incidis in Scyllam , cupiens vitare CharybdinC appears to indicate, 
 but outside the harbour of Messina, 7 1 / >t M. from Scilla, at the point now 
 called Qarofalo (comp. p. 316). 
 
 An Earthquake which took place on the morning of 5th Feb. 1783, 
 overthrew the greater part of the town of Scilla, together with the castle, 
 while the inhabitants tied to the sea. In the evening a second shock 
 rent the promontory asunder, and caused the sea to rise with such impe- 
 tuosity that 1500 persons were drowned, and the town laid under water. 
 
 The distance from the castle of Scilla to the promontory of 
 Faro, the ancient Pelorum, between which the strait lies, is 
 about 2 M. The passage to Messina is most conveniently made from 
 the beautifully situated Villa S. Giovanni , to the S. of the Punta 
 del Pezzo, 5 M. from Scilla. From that point a charming road, 
 skirting the coast, and traversing luxuriant gardens, leads by the 
 villages of Gallico , Arco , and S. Caterina to — 
 
 275 M. {from Ponte S. Cono) Reggio, see p. 220. 
 
 21. From Bari to Taranto. 
 
 72 M. Railway in 32 / 3 - 41/4 hrs. •, fares 13 fr., 9 fr. 10, 5 fr. 20 c. 
 
 Bari, see p. 201. — The line leads inland, towards the W., 
 and gradually ascends. 7 M. Modugno , 9^2 M. Bitetto. On a hill 
 3 M. to the N. lies Palo del Cotle , once surrounded by four villages 
 ( Auricarre , Marescia, Staglino , Battaglia), of which few traces are 
 now left, 14 M. Grumo. 25 1 / 2 M. Acquaviva ; about 3 M. to the 
 
TARANTO. 
 
 21 . Route. 213 
 
 W. is situated Cassano , with a recently discovered stalactite grotto 
 (key at the Sindaco’s) ; fine view from the Capuchin monastery. 
 
 34 M. Gioia del Colle (13,900 inliab.). The line now enters the 
 Terra d’ Otranto, the ancient Calabria, and traverses the low range 
 of hills which form the S.E. spurs of the Apennines. The scenery 
 becomes of a bleak character, the olive-trees disappearing and the 
 fields often looking as if sown w r ith fragments of limestone rocks. 
 42 M. S. Basilio ; a tunnel ; 48 M. stat. Castellaneta. Beyond the 
 next tunnel the line crosses three deep ravines (‘gravine’). 53 M. 
 Palagianello ; 58 M. Palagiano ; 6 CM /2 M. Massafra, picturesquely 
 situated on the slope of a ‘gravina’. The train now approaches the 
 sea. Fine view of the bay with the islands of S. Pietro and S. Paolo. 
 
 72 M. T&rantO. — Hotels, all rather dirty. The Albergo Garibaldi, 
 at the gate, x j\ M. from the station, with view towards the Mare Piccolo, 
 R. from 1 fr. 20 c., and the Alb. di Roma, with somewhat more comfortable 
 rooms, are in better repute than the others. — Trattoria del Moro at Leone 
 di Venezia , charmingly situated on the coast, oysters 60 c. per dozen. 
 
 Cab from the station to the town, 1/2 M., 60 c. 
 
 Taranto , a town with 28,700 inhab. , is situated in the N. 
 angle of the Gulf of Taranto, on a rocky island which divides the 
 
 deep inlet here into the Mare Piccolo and Mare Grande. The latter 
 is bounded by the Capo S. Vito on the S.E. The harbour is pro- 
 tected by two flat islands situated in front of it, the Choerades 
 
214 Route 22. 
 
 TARANTO. 
 
 of antiquity, now S. Paolo (the smaller), occupied by a fort, 
 and 8 . Pietro, the property of the chapter of the cathedral. The 
 entrance to the harbour is between S. Vito and S. Paolo, on each 
 of which a lighthouse is situated. Towards the N.W. the passage 
 is very shallow, and navigable for small boats only. 
 
 The modern town, occupying the site of the ancient Acropo- 
 lis, which extended far towards the E. , is connected with the 
 mainland by bridges on the N. and S. sides. Over the S. bridge 
 runs an aqueduct, attributed to the Greek Emp. Nicephorus I. 
 (about 803) , 25 M. in length , and borne by arches as it ap- 
 proaches the town. The ebb and flow of the tide is distinctly 
 visible under the bridges of Taranto, one of the few places on 
 the Mediterranean where it is perceptible. 
 
 Taranto is the seat of an archbishop, a sub-prefect, and other 
 dignitaries, and carries on a considerable traffic in oil, oats, and 
 wheat. The population is densely packed in confined houses 
 and narrow streets, and the traveller whose expectations regard- 
 ing the town are founded on its ancient celebrity will be sadly 
 disappointed. The town is intersected lengthwise by three streets, 
 which form the arteries of traffic for three different classes of 
 the community, speaking three distinct dialects. The Mare Pic- 
 colo is skirted by the Strada Garibaldi , inhabited chiefly by 
 fishermen, whose language is still strongly tinctured with Greek 
 and is often unintelligible to the other Tarentines. This street 
 is connected by a number of lanes with the narrow Main Street, 
 the chief business thoroughfare, which under various names inter- 
 sects the town from N.W. to S.E., and where the common Neapo- 
 litan dialect is spoken. The Strada Vittorio Emanuele, recently 
 constructed on the coast, where a different dialect is spoken, 
 affords a view of the bay and the mountains of Calabria, and 
 forms a pleasant evening promenade. 
 
 The modernised Cathedral of S. Cataldo contains some impor- 
 tant monuments, such as that of Philip of Taranto, son of Charles 
 II. of Anjou. The chapel of the saint, adjoining the choir on the 
 right, is sumptuously decorated. The crypt is closed. The tower 
 commands a fine view. — The Castle, at the S. end of the town, 
 and the other fortifications, date from the time of Charles Y. Towards 
 the S.E., where the Tarentum of antiquity was situated, new build- 
 ings are now springing up. — Near the gate towards Lecce is the 
 small museum of the Canonico Palumbo (formerly Ceci; fee 1/2 fr.). 
 The huge moupd of oyster-shells here dates from a very early period. 
 
 Tarentum , or Taras , as it was called in Greek, was the most powerful 
 and wealthy city of Magna Grsecia, and lay in a beautiful and fertile district 
 to the S. of Mt. Aulon and W. of the mouth of the Galeesus. It was 
 built by Spartan Parthenians under the guidance of Phalanthus, B. C. 707, 
 and was under the special protection of Neptune, by whose mythical son 
 Taras it is said to have been originally founded. Its extensive commerce 
 and powerful fleet were a source of great prosperity, but with the increase 
 of wealth the citizens became luxurious and effeminate. In addition to 
 
TARANTO. 
 
 21 . Route. 21 5 
 
 their navy and other resources, they possessed an army of 30,000 infantry 
 and 5000 cavalry. Pythagoras of Samos once taught his philosophy here, 
 and his system was farther developed by Archytas of Tarentum, the cele- 
 brated mathematician. With the aid of Pyrrhus of Epirus, Tarentum 
 defended itself successfully against the attacks of the Romans, but at 
 length succumbed, B.C. 272, after the departure of Pyrrhus from Italy. 
 In the Second Punic War the town espoused the cause of Hannibal, but 
 was conquered in 209 by the Romans, who plundered it, carried off its 
 treasures of art, and sold 30,000 of the citizens as slaves. In 123 the 
 Romans established a colony here, and the city again became noted for its 
 wealth and luxury. The famous purple dye and wool of Tarentum were 
 its chief resources at this period. In Horace’s time Tarentum was a place 
 which the poet regarded as the ‘most smiling corner of the world, where 
 the spring is long, and Jupiter vouchsafes mild winters’ (Carm. ii. 6). The 
 coins of the ancient Tarentum are remarkable for their beauty. — In 
 the middle ages Tarentum was the residence of Bohemund, son of Robert 
 Guiscard, who took part in the first Crusade. 
 
 The relics of the celebrated ancient city are unimportant. 
 Quitting the town by the Porta di Lecce , and following the street 
 which leads from the Arsenal to the right along the sea, we 
 reach in 5 min. the scanty ruins of an extensive Circus. A little 
 to the W., in the vineyards sloping towards the sea, are the exten- 
 sive ruins of private houses, now called Le Fornaci , and dating 
 from various periods, some of them being obviously mediaeval, 
 others constructed of the Roman ‘opus reticulatum 1 , while a few 
 are apparently of still earlier date. To the latter class belongs a 
 curious cellar (or stable?) with ceiling of flat vaulting and a shaft 
 for air. At the entrance of one of the rooms is a mosaic. The 
 ruins are in a sadly neglected state. — Another road leads to the 
 left from the Arsenal to the Villa de Beaumont- Bonelli (gardener 
 ! / 2 fr.), with a large orchard, whence a fine view is enjoyed of the 
 town, the Mare Piccolo, and the N. bank of the latter. 
 
 The Mare Piccolo is divided into two halves by the promon- 
 tory II Pizzone , and the Punta della Penna. At its E. extremity 
 is the mouth of the river Cervaro , which is supposed to be the 
 ancient Galaesus. At the S. end, % M. from Taranto, stands 
 the villa of S. Lucia , once the property of the celebrated Arch- 
 bishop Capecelatro (d. 1816), who placed on it the inscription 
 — ‘Si Adam hie peccasset, Deus ignovisset ei’, and afterwards 
 that of General Pepe. Although in a dilapidated condition, it 
 still merits a visit, and is thus described by an old writer: — 
 
 ‘This is one of the most charming spots in the neighbourhood. The 
 Mare Piccolo looks like a broad lake. Gentle slopes, covered with olive- 
 groves, rise in every direction. A fine view of Taranto and its towers, 
 perched on a rock, is enjoyed hence, and still higher rise two magnificent 
 palm-trees, the finest of which stands in the courtyard of the archiepiscopal 
 residence. Gardens with oranges, lemons, figs, almonds, and pomegranates 
 slope down from the town to the water’s edge, filling the air with their 
 delicious fragrance’. 
 
 Excellent fish abound in the Mare Piccolo. They enter with 
 the tide under the S. bridge, and are netted at night in great num- 
 bers. There are no fewer than 93 different species, and they are 
 largely exported in every direction. Shellfish are also bred here in 
 
216 Route 22. 
 
 METAPONTUM. 
 
 From Taranto 
 
 vast numbers. (Oysters and others are called cozze , the best being 
 the coccioli.') The situation of the beds is indicated by stakes 
 protruding from the water. The traveller may visit them by boat 
 (iy 2 fr. per hr.), and enjoy his oysters fresh from the sea (about 
 50 o. per doz. is sufficient recompense; bread should be brought 
 in the boat). 
 
 The climate of Taranto is somewhat cold in winter, and not 
 unbearably hot in summer. The honey and fruit of the neigh- 
 bourhood are in high repute, as they were in ancient times. The 
 date-palm also bears fruit here, but it seldom ripens thoroughly. 
 
 In the district between Taranto, Brindisi, and Otranto the venomous 
 tarantola , or tarantella-spider occurs. Its bite is said by the natives to 
 cause convulsions and even madness, for which evils music and dancing 
 are supposed to be effectual remedies. The latter belief gave rise to the 
 curious tarantella-dancing mania, which was epidemic in S. Italy in the 
 15th-17th centuries. 
 
 From Taranto to Lecce (p. 204) diligence daily in 9 hrs., via S. 
 Giorgio , Sava , Manduria (an old town with 9400 inhab.)', and Campi . 
 Scenery unattractive. 
 
 22. From Taranto to Reggio. 
 
 293 M. Railway in 15V4-173/ 4 hrs. (fares 40 fr. 45, 28 fr. 35, 16 fr. 20 c.). 
 There are no express trains. Through-tickets to Messina, Catania, and 
 other places in Sicily include transport from the station to the quay in 
 Reggio, and also the steamer-fare to Messina. — The traveller should take 
 refreshments with him, as the poor railway restaurant at Cotrone is the 
 only one on the line. 
 
 The Steamboats of the Florio Go. plying between Marseilles and 
 Brindisi touch at Taranto and generally also at Catanzaro, on Thursday 
 when going to Marseilles, and on Saturday on their way to Taranto. The 
 next steam boat stations to the W. are Catania and Messina, to the E. 
 Gallipoli and Brindisi. 
 
 The railway at first traverses an uninteresting, flat country. 
 The soil is very fertile, but miserably cultivated. Although 
 quite capable of yielding two crops annually with proper manage- 
 ment, it is allowed, in accordance with the old-fashioned system 
 prevalent here, to lie fallow for two years after each crop. The 
 train crosses several fiumare , or mountain-torrents , which were 
 confined within embankments on the construction of the railway. 
 The numerous watch-towers are a memento of the unsafe con- 
 dition of the coast during the middle ages, which is also the reason 
 of the distance of the settlements from the sea. The stations are 
 generally 2-5 M. distant from the towns and villages, with which 
 there is often no regular communication. 
 
 27 1 / 2 M. Torremare , a castle with a poor tavern , at which a 
 horse may be hired for the journey to Metapontum (2-2 l / 2 fr.). 
 
 About 3V2 M. to the N. E. of the station lie the ruins of an ancient 
 Greek "'Temple in the Doric style, called La Tavola Paladina by the 
 peasantry, who believe each pillar to have been the seat of a Saracen 
 chieftain. Fifteen columns of the peristyle (ten on the N., five on the S. 
 side) are still standing. The limestone of which they consist is now much 
 disintegrated. This temple marks the site of the celebrated ancient Greek 
 city of Metapontum. Pythagoras died here, B.C. 497, in his 90th year, 
 
to Reggio. 
 
 CASSANO. 
 
 22. Route. 217 
 
 but his philosophy long survived him in the principal towns of Magna 
 Greecia, especially rt Metapontum itself, Tarentum, and Croton. When 
 Alexander of Epirus came to Italy in B.C. 332, Metapontum allied itself 
 with him, and in the Second Punic War it took the part of Hannibal. 
 Its enmity to Rome on the latter occasion, however, caused its downfall, 
 and at the time of Pausanias, in the 2nd cent, after Christ, it was a mere 
 heap of ruins. — We may now return by the right bank of the Bradano. 
 The neighbouring farm-houses ( masserie ), such as the Mnsseria Sansone , 
 are built of massive blocks from the ancient walls of the town. On the 
 coast are traces of a harbour now filled with sand. To the S.W. are 
 rows of tombs which afford an idea of the great extent of the town. 
 
 From Torremare to Calciano and Potenza , see p. 207. 
 
 The Cotrone and Reggio train crosses the Basento. 32!/ 2 M. 
 S. Basilio Pisticci; 37^2 M. Scanzano Montalbano. We next cross 
 the Agri , the ancient Aciris. 40!/ 2 M. Policoro , near which lay 
 the Greek town of Heraclea (founded by the Tarentines in 432), 
 where Pyrrhus with the aid of his elephants gained his first victory 
 over the Romans, B.C. 280. At Luce , in the vicinity, the celebrated 
 bronze Tabula Heracleensis (Lex Julia Municipalis) , now in the 
 Museum at Naples (p. 64), was discovered in 1753. 
 
 The train traverses a wood (Pantano di Policoro), full of 
 the most luxuriant vegetation (myrtles, oleanders, etc.), beyond 
 which are the river Sinno , the ancient Siris , and the town of 
 that name. The line now approaches the sea. 
 
 49^2 M. Rocca Imperiale. The country becomes hilly. 54 M. 
 Monte Giordano • 59 M. Roseto. The finest part of the line is 
 between Roseto and Rossano. It commands a beautiful view of 
 
218 Route 22. COTRONE. From Taranto 
 
 the precipitous Monte Pollino (7852 ft.) which is never free from 
 snow except in summer, and of the broad valley of the Crati , at 
 the head of which rise the pine-clad Sila mountains (p. 209). — 
 62M. Amendolara ; 67^2 M. Trebisacce (a good echo at the sta- 
 tion); 74M. Torre Cerchiara. 
 
 77 M. Buffaloria di Cassano , whence a branch-line ascends the 
 valley of the Crati, via Doria-Cassano , Spezzano-Castrovillari , etc., 
 to Cosenza (43 M. in 2 3 / 4 hrs. ; fares 7 fr. 80, 5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 15 c. ; 
 comp. p. 209). 
 
 Doria-Cassano is the station for (472 M.) Cassano (9100 inhab.), a beauti- 
 fully situated town , with warm baths, and an ancient castle on a lofty 
 rock. The castle affords a magnificent survey of the valleys of the Coscile 
 and the Crati , the Sybaris and the Crathis of antiquity. The wild, barren 
 limestone mountains rise here almost immediately from the plain, culminat- 
 ing in the Monte Pollino. The Torre di Milo is pointed out here as the 
 tower whence the stone was thrown that caused the death of T. Annius 
 Milo, when he was besieging Cosa on behalf of Pompey. 
 
 The train now crosses the Crati. 
 
 The wealthy and proverbially luxurious Sybaris, founded B.C. 720 by 
 Achseans and Troezenians, and destroyed in 510 by the Crotonians, is said 
 to have lain on this river. — About 6 M. from its supposed site, near 
 Terranova , are the scanty ruins of Tliurii, which was founded by the 
 Sybarites after the destruction of their city. In 443 the Athenians sent a 
 colony thither, and with it the historian Herodotus. Owing to the wise 
 legislation of Charondas, Thurii soon attained to great prosperity. It 
 formed a league with the Romans in 282, and was defended by C. Fabricius 
 against the attacks of the Lucanians, but it was afterwards plundered by 
 Hannibal. In 193 it received a Roman colony, and the new name of Copiae, 
 but it rapidly declined, and was at length entirely deserted. 
 
 86 M. Stat. Corigliano Calabro. The town, with 10,700 inhab., 
 lies on a height, 4 M. from the station. 
 
 93 M. Stat. Rossano. The town (Albergo della Romanella) with 
 15,600 inhab. , situated on a hill, and possessing quarries of marble 
 and alabaster, is 5 M. distant. This was the birthplace of St. Nilus. 
 
 The train runs close to the sea through a mountainous district, 
 and crosses the Trionto. Stations Mirto Crosia , 8. Giacomo , Cam - 
 pana , and Cariati (Albergo di Sibari, miserable). Farther on, the 
 train traverses pleasant plantations of olives, vines, and ligs. Stat. 
 Crucoli , Cirb , Torre di Melissa , and Strongoli. This last, a squalid 
 village with 2900 inhab., situated on a bold eminence 4 M. from 
 the station, and reached by a bad road, was the ancient Poetelia , 
 founded according to tradition by Philoctetes, and besieged by Han- 
 nibal after the battle of Cannae on account of its fidelity to Rome. 
 
 147 Y 2 M. Cotrone (* Albergo della Concordia , at the entrance 
 to the town ; carriage from the station i/ 2 &•)> a thriving little sea- 
 port with 8000 inhab., situated on a promontory, was in ancient 
 times the famous Achaean colony of Croton , founded B.C. 710, 
 which is said to have been once so populous and powerful as to 
 be able in 510 to send an army of 100,000 men into the field 
 against Sybaris. After its great victory on that occasion, however, 
 Croton declined; not long afterwards the citizens were defeated 
 
 ■ 
 
to Reggio. 
 
 SQUILLACE. 
 
 22. Route. 219 
 
 by the Locrians on the river Sagras, and in 299 the town fell into 
 the hands of Agathocles of Syracuse. During the height of the 
 prosperity of the city, Pythagoras, who had been banished from 
 Samos by the tyrant Polycrates, and was then in his 40th year, 
 established himself at Croton. He attracted a band of disciples 
 and founded his brotherhood here, B.C. 450, but was at length 
 banished in consequence of the jealousy of the citizens. A visit 
 should be paid to the old Castle , the highest tower of which com- 
 mands a fine view (admission by applying to an officer or ser- 
 geant). 
 
 Oranges and olives thrive admirably in the environs, and are 
 largely exported. Liquorice is also a staple product. An intro- 
 duction to Signor Baracco , one of the wealthiest land-owners in 
 Italy, who resides in the neighbourhood, will be found of great 
 service. 
 
 About 7 M. to the S.E. is the Capo delle Colonne , or Capo Nao, alow 
 promontory, much exposed to the wind. (Route to it by land 2 x )-i hrs., 
 very rough ; boat 6 fr.) As the steamer rounds this cape , the eye is 
 arrested by a solitary column, rising conspicuously on massive substruc- 
 tions above the few modern buildings of the place. This is now the sole 
 relic of the Temple of Hera of the Lacinian Promontory , once the most 
 revered divinity on the whole of the Gulf of Tarentum. There are also 
 some remains of ‘opus reticulatum’ from ancient Roman villas. To the 
 S.W. of this promontory are three others, the Capo delle Cimiti , the Capo 
 Rizzuto , and the Capo Castella. 
 
 Beyond Cotrone tbe train quits the coast, and traverses a hilly 
 district, with little trace of cultivation. Near (156 M.) Cutro it 
 passes through a long tunnel. 162 M. Is ola- Capo -Rizzuto ; 166 M. 
 Rocca Bernarda ; 171 M. Cropani ; 176 M. Simmeri. 
 
 183 M. Catanzaro. — *Albergo Serravalle, with a good trattoria, 
 and a dependance Albergo d' Italia , R. 1-2 fr. , scale of charges posted up 
 as in many Calabrian inns. Alb. Roma; Alb. Centrale. — Caf6 Centrale. 
 
 Diligence at 6 p.m. to Tiriolo (p. 210) in connection with the diligences 
 to Cosenza and Reggio. — Mule 3-5 fr. a day. 
 
 Catanzaro , with 25,000 inhab. (including the suburbs), the 
 capital of the province of the same name, prettily situated 6 M. 
 from the sea, boasts of a cathedral (fine view from the campanile 
 by evening light), a castle of Robert Guiscard , numerous velvet 
 and silk manufactories, and luxuriant olive-groves. The climate is 
 cool in summer, and snow often lies in winter. Many wealthy 
 families reside here. The handsome Calabrian costume is still 
 frequently seen here, particularly on Sundays. Catanzaro suffered 
 severely by the earthquake of 1783. Numerous pleasant excursions 
 may be made hence. 
 
 Beyond Catanzaro the line skirts the coast and passes through 
 several promontories by means of tunnels. 
 
 189^2 M. Squillace, the ancient Scylaceum , is perched on an 
 almost inaccessible rock near the coast, nearly opposite the lofty 
 Monte Moscia. 
 
 Cassiodorus , the private secretary of Theodoric the Great , was born 
 at Scylaceum , and after the death of his master retired to his native 
 
220 Route 22. 
 
 REGGIO. 
 
 place, where he founded a monastery , wrote a number of learned works, 
 and died there in 560 at the age of nearly a hundred. — To the N. of 
 Squillace the Emp. Otho II. was defeated in July, 982, by the Arabs, 
 who had crossed over from Sicily, and had recently been routed by him 
 at Colonne , to the S. of Cotrone. He himself escaped almost by a 
 miracle, and succeeded in reaching Rossano , where he met his consort 
 Theophctno. Otho did not long survive this reverse; he died at Rome in 
 December, 983, and was interred in the old church of St. Peter. 
 
 The train passes through the promontory by means of two tunnels. 
 193 M. Montauro ; 197 M. Soverato ; 199 M. Santo Sostene ; 201 M. 
 S. Andrea; 20472 M. Badolato ; 207 1 / 2 M. S. Caterina ; 214 1 / 2 M. 
 Monasterace (near which, at Stilo , are iron-works); 221 M. Riace ; 
 223 M. Caulonia . The river Alaro is supposed to be the Sagras 
 of antiquity, where an army of 130,000 Crotonians is said to have 
 been utterly routed by 10,000 Locrians. On this river lies Castel- 
 vetere , on the site of the ancient Achaean Caulonia , where Pytha- 
 goras sought refuge after his expulsion from Croton. 
 
 229 M. Roccella , with 6400 inhab., lies near the coast. Beyond 
 (231 M.) Gioiosa , the magnificent scenery resembles that of Greece. 
 234 M. Siderno. 
 
 237 M. Gerace. The town, with 7600 inhab., and a Romanesque 
 church, lies on the slope of a lofty spur of the Apennines, having 
 risen from the ruins of Locri Epizephyrii , the once celebrated 
 colony of the Locrians, founded B.C. 683, provided with a salutary 
 code of laws by Zaleucus (664), and extolled by Pindar and De- 
 mosthenes for its wealth and love of art. The ruins of the ancient 
 city near Torre di Gerace are now concealed by an orange garden. 
 
 The Passo del Mercante, a mountain path, leads from Gerace through 
 beautiful woods, and over the lofty Aspromonte , to Casalnuovo (p. 208). 
 Thence by a post-road to Gioia (p. 211) or to Seminara (p. 212), about 37 M. 
 The top of the pass commands a delightful view of the sea in both direc- 
 tions. In descending, we overloock the Bay of Gioia as far as the Lipari 
 Islands. 
 
 242 M. Ardore ; 244 4 / 2 M. Bovalino; 249^2 M. Bianconuovo , 
 258 M. Brancaleone. The line now skirts the Capo Spartivento , 
 the Promontorium Herculis of antiquity, the S. E. extremity of 
 Calabria (station, 262 M.). 266 M. Palizzi. The train turns towards 
 the W. and then nearly to the N. ; 26972 M. Bova ; 272 M. 
 Amandolea; 277 M. Melito. 
 
 28272 M. Saline. The train affords a view of the coast and 
 mountains of Sicily, and rounds the Capo delV Armi , the Promon- 
 torium Leucopetrae , which was in ancient times regarded as the 
 termination of the Apennines. Cicero landed here in B.C. 44, 
 after the murder of Caesar, having been compelled by adverse winds 
 to turn back from his intended voyage to Greece, and he was 
 then persuaded by citizens of Rhegium to repair to Yelia, where 
 he met Brutus. 
 
 286 M. Lazzaro; 290 M. Pellaro ; 29372 M. S. Gregorio. 
 
 297 M. Reggio. — *Albergo Vittoria, in the Corso Garibaldi, 
 R., L., & A. 3V«2, B. 3 / 4 , D. 3V2 fr. ; Alb. Milano. — Trattoria Lombardo, 
 in a side-street of the Corso ; Caffl Garibaldi. — Carriages (stand in the 
 
REGGIO. 
 
 22. Route. 221 
 
 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele), per drive 80 c., at night 1 fr. 20 e. ; ner hr. 
 1 l / 2 fr., at night 2 fr. 20 c. — Steamer to Messina at 7.30 a.m. and 3.o0 p.m. 
 daily, 2 fr. ; embarcation and landing 50 c. (bargaining necessary); the 
 passage may also be made in one of the Naples mail steamers which cross 
 several times weekly. 
 
 Reggio , called Reggio di Calabria to distinguish it from Reggio 
 neir Emilia, the ancient Rhegium , and originally a Euboean colony, 
 was founded in B.C. 723 by fugitive Messenians, and soon rose to 
 prosperity. It is now the capital of the province of the same name 
 and an archiepiscopal residence, with 16,000, or, with the surround- 
 ing villages, 36,900 inhabitants. The town was almost entirely 
 destroyed by the great earthquake of 1783 (p. 212) , and it there- 
 fore now presents a modern appearance, with its broad and handsome 
 streets extending from the sea to the beautiful hills in the rear, 
 which are studded with numerous and handsome villas. The Cathe- 
 dral , a spacious basilica with pillars, contains wooden statues of 
 saints in place of paintings ; the Cappella del Sacramento, to the 
 left of the high altar, is richly adorned with Florentine mosaics. 
 Above the cathedral rises the Castello. A military band often plays 
 in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which is embellished with a statue 
 of Italia. — Nothing can surpass the beauty of the environs and 
 the view of the Sicilian coast with Mt. iEtna , especially in the 
 evening, when the sun sets behind the mountains near Messina. 
 The distance from Reggio to Messina is about & 2 /% M. The con- 
 jecture that Sicily was once connected with the mainland was 
 prevalent at a very early period, and is borne out by modern geolo- 
 gical investigations. 
 
 In the wars of both ancient and. modern times Reggio has suffered 
 terrible reverst s. It was first destroyed by the Romans, then in 549 by 
 the Goth Totila , in 918 by the Saracens , in 1005 by the Pisans, in 1060 
 by Robert Guiscard, again by Frederick Barbarossa, and lastly in 1552 and 
 1597 by the Turks. 
 
 Excursions. At the back of Reggio rises the imposing , forest-clad As- 
 promonte, the W. extremity of the range which in ancient times bore the 
 name of Sila; the highest point is the Montalto (6907 ft.). The summit is 
 overgrown with beech-trees, the slopes partly with pines. Here, in the vici- 
 nity of Reggie, Garibaldi was wounded and taken prisoner by the Italian 
 troops under Pallavicini , 29th Aug. 1862. The ascent , which is very 
 laborious, is best undertaken from Villa Giovanni (p. 212) or from Scilla 
 (p. 212). Good mules and competent guides, however, are more easily 
 obtained at Villa Giovanni (two mules and one guide for a day and a 
 half 14 fr.). If possible the start should be made early on a moonlight 
 night. The summit, which is reached in & hrs. , commands an imposing 
 view of the sea , the islands , and Sicily. Those who make a sufficient 
 stay at Reggio should not omit to make this beautiful forest excursion. 
 
 To Scilla , see p. 212. — Ascent of the Mte. Elia y see p. 212. — This 
 excursion is best made by driving to Palmi (4-5 hrs. ; 15-20 fr.), ascending 
 the hill on foot, and descending through beautiful chestnut wood to Bag- 
 nara in 2 hrs., where the carriage should be ordered to wait. Travelling 
 in the province of Reggio has always been considered free from hazard. 
 
*222 
 
 23. From Naples to Messina by Sea. 
 
 Steamers of the Society Florio & Co. (office, Strada Piliero 30) on 
 Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at 5.30 p.m., direct in about 18 hrs. 
 (fares 48 fr. 60, 36 fr. 60 c.); on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 5.30 p.m., in- 
 direct, in 28 lirs., touching at the chief places on the coast (Paola, Wed. 
 and Sun. forenoons; Pizzo, Wed. and Sun. afternoons). — Societa Rubattino 
 (office, Strada Piliero 33) on Thursdays at 5.30 p.m., and also on two other 
 days each month, in 18 hrs. (fare 51 fr.,35fr.). — (From Messina: Societa 
 Florio, direct on Mondays and Thursdays at 10 a.m., and Sundays at 3 p.m.; 
 indirect on Wednesdays and Fridays at 6 p.m., arriving at Pizzo on Thurs. 
 and Sat. mornings and at Paola on Thurs. and Sat. afternoons. Rubattino 
 on Tuesdays at 5 p.m.) — Embarcation with luggage 1 fr., comp. Introd. vi. 
 
 Departure from Naples, see p. 20. After 2^2 hrs. , and beyond 
 Castellamare and Sorrento, the steamer enters the strait between 
 Capri , with the rugged and precipitous Lo Capo (p. 162), and the 
 Punta di Campanella (p. 155). Shortly afterwards a view of the 
 Bay of Salerno is disclosed. As the sun sets and the vessel gradually 
 stands out to sea, Mt. Vesuvius presents a most majestic appearance. 
 
 On the Direct Voyage the steamer reaches the open sea about 
 dusk. On the following forenoon the volcano of the island of 
 Stromholi, near which the steamer afterwards passes, becomes 
 visible on the right. The mountain-range of the N. coast of Sicily 
 next comes in sight , presenting a very striking appearance. As 
 the vessel steers for the Strait of Messina we observe Scilla with 
 its castle on the left, and the Faro on the right. Arrival at Messina, 
 see p. 310. 
 
 The Coasting Steamers pass the promontories della Licosa 
 and dello Spartivento and the Bay of Policastro during the night. 
 The once powerful town of the latter name was destroyed by Robert 
 Guiscard in 1055, and by the Turks in 1542, and now contains 
 4000 inhab. only. 
 
 On the following morning, Monte Pollino (7326 ft.), which 
 terminates the Neapolitan Apennines, is the most conspicuous 
 mountain, and adjoining it begin the Calabrian Mts. As the vessel 
 proceeds southwards to Paola we enjoy a succession of fine views. 
 The coast is studded with numerous towns and villages, most of 
 them situated on the heights , between which valleys descend to 
 empty their brooks into the sea. Verbicaro is seen somewhat 
 inland, then Diamante , at the base of a lofty cliff. Farther on, 
 Belvedere with 4627 inhab., charmingly situated on the slopes of 
 the mountain'. Then, after a small promontory is passed, in the 
 bay to the S. lies Cetraro , most of the inhabitants of which are 
 anchovy-fishers. We next observe Guardia , on a lofty hill, with 
 warm baths; then the town of Fuscaldo , with 9800 inhab. and the 
 ruins of an old castle. 
 
 Paola, a town with 8900 inhab., beautifully situated in a ravine 
 and on the slope of the mountain, carries on an extensive oil and 
 wine trade. When the vessel stops here a busy scene usually takes 
 
TROPE A. 
 
 23. Route. 223 
 
 place, as the inhabitants hasten on hoard with all kinds of articles 
 for sale. Paola , which some suppose to be the Palycus of the 
 Greeks, was the birthplace of Francesco di Paola, founder of the 
 mendicant order of Minorites. — On the arrival of the steamer 
 carriages start for Cosenza (372 hrs. drive, seat 5 fr. ; see p. 209). 
 
 After a halt of about D/2 hr. the vessel resumes her voyage. 
 On the coast are the villages of San Lucido , Fiumefreddo , and Bel- 
 monte , at the back of which rises the conspicuous Monte Cocuzzo 
 (1804 ft). Amantea next becomes visible, supposed to be the 
 ancient Amantia of Bruttium. The town and fortress, erected on 
 a lofty rock, were garrisoned in 1806 by royalists, who repelled 
 the attacks of the French troops ; but, after severe sufferings from 
 famine, they were compelled to surrender the following year. To 
 the S. of Amantea the Savuto falls into the sea. The coast becomes 
 flat and less richly cultivated. Farther on, Nocera ; then past the 
 Capo Suvero to the Golfo di Santa Eufemia , at the S. end of 
 which lies — 
 
 Pizzo (see p. 210); halt I72 hr. 
 
 At the S. E. angle of the bay lies Monteleone , see p. 211. 
 
 The steamboat rounds Capo Zambrone , and reaches Tropea , an 
 ancient town (5800 inhab.) in a delightful situation, the climate 
 of which is much extolled. To the S. is the Capo Vaticano with 
 its lighthouse, projecting far into the sea. In the bay lies Nico- 
 tera , which suffered severely from the earthquake (p. 212) of 
 1783, near the influx of the Mesima. At Gioia (p. 211) the 
 post-road from Naples to Reggio (R. 20) leads down to the coast, 
 which it skirts during the rest of the way. Soon after the 
 harbour of Pizzo is quitted the Lipari Islands (R. 36) become 
 visible to the W. ; Stromboli , with its continually smoking crater, 
 is the most conspicuous. Off Capo Yaticano the Sicilian mountains 
 suddenly appear. 
 
 Palmi , Bagnara , Scilla , see p. 212. The Aspromonte range, 
 with the Monte Alto (6907 ft.), looks uninteresting from this 
 side. We now enter the Strait of Messina , which presents a 
 busy scene during the daytime. 
 
 Messina, see p. 310. If the steamer arrives during the night 
 the passenger had better remain on board till morning, enquiring 
 beforehand of the captain when the vessel is to start again. 
 
 24. From Naples to Palermo by Sea. 
 
 Steamers of the Bocieta Florio (offiee, Strada Piliero 30) 6-7 times 
 weekly, generally at 5 or 6 p.m. , in 16-20 hrs. •, fares 48 fr. 60, 31 fr. 60 c. 
 — The [passenger should be on deck early next morning to enjoy the 
 beautiful approach to Sicily and the entrance into the harbour. — (From 
 Palermo, usually, at 3 p.m.) 
 
 Departure from the bay, comp. p. 20; beautiful retrospect. 
 Beyond Capri the steamer reaches the open sea. Early next 
 
224 Route 24. 
 
 CAPO D1 GALLO. 
 
 morning (between 5 and 6 o’ cl.) the Lipari Islands (R. 36) are seen 
 to the S. (left); later the island of Vstica (p. 272) to the W., 
 long remaining visible ; then, about 10 a. m., the towering moun- 
 tains of Sicily ; to the extreme right is the Capo di Gallo , nearer 
 rises Monte Pellegrino (1958 ft. ; p. 268) , and to the left is the 
 Monte Catalfano (1233 ft.), with a smaller pointed promontory, 
 guarding the E. entrance to the Bay of Palermo. At length we 
 perceive the beautiful and extensive city. A little to the left 
 of Monte Pellegrino are the lofty Monte Cuccio (3445 ft.), Monreale 
 (p. 266), and farther distant the Monte Griffone. 
 
 Palermo, see R. 25.. 
 
SICILY. 
 
 General Remarks. 
 
 Strabo, tbe Greek geographer, in one passage calls Sicily an ‘addition’, 
 in another a ‘detached portion'’ of Italy ; and there is indeed not one of 
 the surrounding islands so intimately allied, geographically as well as 
 historically, with the great peninsula which bisects the Mediterranean. 
 Goethe has justly observed that, without Sicily, Italy would lose much 
 of its charm: ‘the climate cannot be too highly extolled; the beauties 
 are innumerable. 1 This cannot fail to be experienced by every traveller 
 who forms acquaintance with this ‘gem among islands 1 . Nor is the beauty 
 of the scenery the sole attraction to the wanderer from the north. Those 
 equipped with even a superficial knowledge of history cannot but exper- 
 ience a profound interest in the places with which the most ancient Hel- 
 lenic and Roman traditions are connected, where the destinies of Athens, 
 Carthage, and Rome have been decided, and where mediaeval characters 
 so famous as Henry VI. and Frederick II. have ruled. There is not a 
 nation which has materially influenced the destinies of European civili- 
 sation, that has not left distinct traces of its agency in this island. Those 
 whose time and resources permit are therefore strongly recommended to 
 visit Sicily before proceeding homewards. 
 
 Modes of Travelling. Steamboats ply daily (see pp. 223, 222) from 
 Naples to Palermo, and almost daily from Naples to Messina. Others start 
 on alternate Fridays from Marseilles for Palermo (Messageries Maritimes 
 de France). Steamers also ply once weekly from Palermo to Sardinia (R. 44), 
 and to Malta and the East. — Railway to Reggio, and the passage thence 
 to Messina, see R. 22; the railway journey from Naples to Reggio occupies 
 29hrs., the passage thence to Messina l 3 /4 hr. 
 
 Other steamers ( Societa, Florio, whose headquarters are at Palermo) 
 make the circuit of the island once a week, Palermo being the starting- 
 point, and Messina and Syracuse the principal stations. A steamboat also 
 plies several times weekly between Palermo and Messina, see p. 304. The 
 service is tolerably punctual on the N. and E. coasts, but on the S. side 
 of the island, where the navigation is more difficult, delays of many hours 
 and even days frequently occur. 
 
 Railways. The network of railways with which the island is to be 
 overspread is steadily progressing. The following lines are completed: 
 (1) From Messina by Catania to Syracuse , 114 M. ; (2) From Catania to 
 Campobello (104 M.), and Favarotta (to be opened in the summer of 1880) ; 
 (3) From Palermo by Termini to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle , 89 M. This 
 line is to be connected with the railway to Catania by a line running via 
 Vallelunga and Marianopoli to S. Caterina, and by another farther S., 
 between Caldare and Canicatti. (At present the diligence running twice 
 daily between the two latter places maintains the direct communication 
 between Palermo and Catania.) — A railway from Palermo by Partinico, 
 Alcamo, Castelvetrano, and Marsala to Trapani is also in course of con- 
 struction, and when finished will greatly facilitate a visit to the ruins of 
 Segesta and Selinunto, and lay open the whole of the W. coast. Several 
 portions of this line are almost ready for traffic, comp. pp. 272, 276. 
 
 Diligences run on all the principal roads in Sicily, the fare being 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 15 
 
226 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 General Remarks. 
 
 15 c. per kilometre (1 kilometre = 5 /s English M.), or about 25 c. per 
 English mile; but the vehicles are generally bad, and there is often a diffi- 
 culty in procuring seats as no supplementary carriages are provided. The 
 interior of the vehicle has occasionally to be vacated in the middle of the 
 night to make room for the mails. Passengers for the longer distances have 
 the preference, and those who wish to be taken up at an intermediate 
 station are never certain of obtaining a seat. This system moreover en- 
 courages dishonesty and extortion on the part of the conductors. Diligence- 
 travelling, however, has come more into favour since the completion of 
 the new roads at the W. end of the island. If any danger is apprehended, 
 a sufficient escort is always provided. The traveller will often find it 
 convenient to travel by these vehicles from station to station, and then 
 to make digressions from the high-road on foot or on mule-back. Driver’s 
 fee 5 soldi. The ‘Periodica', or omnibus which competes with the dili- 
 gence on the principal routes, is a very inferior conveyance. 
 
 Carriages may be hired at all the larger towns. The usual charge 
 throughout the island for a carriage with three horses, when hired for 
 several days, is 20-25 fr. per day, including tolls (catena), but exclusive 
 of ‘buona mano’ (2-3 fr. per day). The average daily journey is 40 Sicilian 
 miles ( 371/2 Engl. M.). 
 
 Mules. Now that the new roads are completed the traveller need 
 not perform the whole of his Sicilian tour on the back of a mule, as 
 used to be the practice. Not only is the constant riding fatiguing and 
 monotonous, but it is not pleasant to be always dependent on one’s 
 guide (‘vetturino’), who contracts to provide the traveller with every 
 necessary at a fixed sum per day. The usual charges from Palermo are 
 for one person with two mules 40 fr., for two persons with four mules 
 60 fr. per day, and so on. Travelling by diligence, or even in hired 
 carriages on the high-roads is therefore less expensive than riding; but 
 there are of course many excursions where riding or walking alone is 
 practicable. 
 
 The charge for a mule, exclusive of hotel-expenses, varies in different 
 parts of the island, but the maximum may be stated at 10 fr. per diem. 
 The attendant expects a slight additional fee. If a mule be engaged with 
 a guide who is also mounted , for a journey of several days, the whole 
 charge does not exceed 7-10 fr. per day. If, however, the traveller does 
 not return to the point of starting, the return-journey must be paid for. 
 The rider should previously stipulate for a good saddle (sella or sedda 
 inglese), and not a l bisazza senza staffe', i.e. a saddle without stirrups, 
 such as the Sicilians use. 
 
 Letters of introduction to inhabitants of the island will be found 
 very useful, and for scientific travellers, who wish to economise time, 
 almost necessary. The card of an officer of the Carabinieri often serves 
 as a kind of introduction. 
 
 Brigandage. From the events of 1860 down to the present time, the 
 state of public security in Sicily has always been more or less unsatis- 
 factory, and the stringent measures of government have not yet been entire- 
 ly successful in rooting out the evils of brigandage. In fact an effectual 
 cure can scarcely be expected as long as the present social and agricultural 
 state of the island remains unchanged. (Comp, also Introd., p. xiv.) Generally 
 speaking, it is wealthy natives, and not foreigners, against whom predatory 
 attacks are directed. The provinces of Messina and Catania, including Mt. 
 JEtna, are regarded as perfectly safe, while the most hazardous localities 
 are the environs of Palermo and some parts of the interior. 
 
 Plan of Tour. The best seasons for travelling in Sicily are the months 
 of April and May, or September and October. Even in January the weather 
 is often fine and settled. The ascent of iEtna in spring is possible, but 
 the best period is August or September , after the first showers of 
 autumn have cleared the atmosphere. 
 
 Many travellers, especially if accompanied by ladies, will content 
 themselves with a visit to Palermo, and to Messina and Taormina amidst 
 the striking scenery of the E. coast, and they will perhaps include Ca- 
 tania, Mt. JEtna, Syracuse, and Girgenti in their tour. All these places 
 
Geography and Statistics. SICILY. 
 
 227 
 
 may be visited with ease and comfort, as the steamboat and railway 
 services are regular and the inns good. The W. half of the island, and 
 particularly the ruins of Segesta , the Monte S. Giuliano, and Trapani , may 
 be visited by diligence or hired carriage, or by steamboat. Marsala , 
 Castelvetrano , and the ruins of Selinunto are reached from Trapani by good 
 carriage-roads. The best mode of exploring the very picturesque N. Coast 
 is mentioned at p. 304. 
 
 Palermo, Messina, Taormina, Syracuse, and Girgenti may be visited 
 in a fortnight: — At Palermo 3-4 days ; journey to Girgenti 1 day; at 
 Girgenti 1-2 days ; diligence and railway-journey through the interior of 
 the island to Catania 172-2 days, Or by steamer to Syracuse in 18 hrs. ; 
 at Syracuse 172-2 days ; at Taormina 1-2 days ; at Messina 1-2 days. — 
 The most energetic of travellers, however, will take at least a month to 
 exhaust the beauties of the island. The following routes are the most 
 important : — At Palermo 3-4 days ; by land in 4 days, or by steamer 
 direct in 18 hrs. from Palermo to Messina; in the latter case Milazzo 
 and Patti ( Tyndaris ) should be visited from Messina, 3 days ; by railway 
 to Taormina 1 day; Catania and JEtna 3 days; stay at Syracuse 2 days; 
 by steamer in 18 hrs. to Girgenti; at Girgenti 1-2 days; by land in 2 days 
 to Sciacca , Selinunto , and Castelvetrano; thence by Calatafimi ( Segesta ) in 
 2 days, or, if Marsala and Trapani be included, in 4 days, to Palermo. 
 
 Geography and Statistics. 
 
 Sicily (the ancient Sicilia , Sikelia , or Trinacria ) is the largest 
 island in the Mediterranean. Its area, according to the most recent 
 measurements, amounts to 29,240 sq. kilometres, i. e. about 11,450 
 Engl. sq. M. The form of the island is an irregular triangle , the 
 W., truncated angle of which is the promontory of Lilybaeum , or 
 Capo di Boeo , near Marsala ; the N.E. angle is the promontory of 
 Pelorum ( Capo del Faro) nearest the mainland of Italy, and the 
 S.E. angle the promontory of Pachynum (Capo Passero). The N. 
 coast is 200, the E. 135, and the S. W. 177 Engl. M. in length. 
 
 The whole island of Sicily is mountainous in character. Closely 
 connected with Italy by geological structure as well as in geo- 
 graphical position, it forms a continuation of the great Apennine 
 range which stretches across the Mediterranean from the main trunk 
 of Europe to Africa, a submerged prolongation of the range being 
 also distinctly traceable. The distance between Cape Boeo and 
 Cape Bon is only 75 M. , and the depth in the direct line never 
 exceeds 100 fathoms, except in one narrow belt running S.E. 
 towards the island of Pantelleria (248 fathoms), while the Straits 
 of Pantelleria , separating Sicily from Africa, are as a rule not more 
 than 50 fathoms deep. This submerged elevation is probably of 
 volcanic origin. Pantelleria and Linosa are extinct volcanoes, 
 and the heights which at many points approach the surface of the 
 water are probably the cones of submarine volcanoes, not yet 
 levelled by the action of the waves. The submerged peak of Gra- 
 ham’s Shoal , to the S. of Sciacca, not more than 2 l /2 fathoms from 
 the surface, and now covered with beautiful corals, marks the scene 
 of several submarine volcanic eruptions, the most famous of which 
 took place in 1831 , and formed the ephemeral island of Giulia or 
 
 15 * 
 
228 
 
 SICILY. Geography and Statistics . 
 
 Ferdinandea. To the N. of Sicily lies another volcanic tract , the 
 eruptions of which have produced the Lipari Islands. The S.E. 
 portion of the island of Sicily is of the tertiary formation, and is 
 connected with the contemporaneous and similar formations of the 
 Malta Islands by a submarine table-land. The virtual W. apex 
 of Sicily is formed by Maritimo , the westernmost of the Aegadian 
 Islands , which lie in shallow water, and are geologically identical 
 with the actual W. coast of Sicily. The Straits of Messina, only 
 2 M. wide at their narrowest point, and at their shallowest part 
 (near the same point) 51 fathoms deep, may he regarded as a sub- 
 merged depression which was not raised high enough at the last 
 upheaval of the spurs of the Apennines to appear as a defile on 
 land instead of a strait in water. (A converse case is that of the 
 defile of Tiriolo near Cantanzaro, in Calabria, which a slightly less 
 powerful upheaval would have also left a strait.) The shallowness 
 of the sea on the S. and S.W., coupled with striking palaeontological 
 proofs , thus warrants the conclusion that Sicily was at a com- 
 paratively recent geological period united with the continent of 
 Africa. On the N. and E., on the contrary, the shores of the island 
 descend abruptly into the deepest parts of the Mediterranean, a 
 sounding of no less than 2000 fathoms having been made within 
 about 30 M. of Cape Passer o. 
 
 Mountains. Sicily , which is of a hilly or mountainous char- 
 acter throughout its whole extent , may he roughly described as 
 a table-land of a mean level of 2300-2800 ft., somewhat tilted 
 towards the N., and higher at the edges than in the interior. The 
 loftiest of the non-volcanic summits are towards the N., where a 
 range of mountains runs from the Straits of Messina along the 
 coast , forming a prolongation of the Apennine range which tra- 
 verses the Italian peninsula. The continuity of the chain remains 
 unbroken as far the valley of Polizzi, a place of historical interest, 
 whence the Himera Septentrionalis (Fiume Grande) flows N. to the 
 Tyrrhenian, and the Himera Meridionalis (Fiume Salso) S. to the 
 African Sea. The W. part of the range, which consists rather 
 of detached groups of mountains, is the only one which has received 
 a distinguishing name from the natives, who call it the Madonie . Its 
 highest summits are the Pizzo delV Antenna (6480 ft.), the loftiest 
 mountain in the island after AStna, and the Monte Salvatore , both 
 covered with, snow during one half of the year. Scientific geographers 
 apply the name of Nebrodic Mountains to the Madonie together with 
 the mountains to the N. and N.W. of ./Etna (where the Monte Sori 
 attains a height of 6052 ft.), while they distinguish that section of 
 the range which abuts on the Straits of Messina as the Peloric Chain 
 (the Montes Neptunii or Pelorides of the ancients), culminating in 
 the Dinnamari or Antennamare (3707 ft.) near Messina. 
 
 To the W. of the important watershed of the two Himeras the 
 mountains still form a chain or range, though of less distinct char- 
 
Geography and Statistics. SICILY. 
 
 229 
 
 acter, the highest summits of which all lie near the N. coast. 
 Thus near Termini rises the Monte S. Calogero (4347 ft.) , while 
 near Palermo are Monte Cuccio (3441 ft.) , and , farther inland, 
 the Busambra (5298 ft.) , a huge and almost perpendicular mass 
 of rock. As we proceed towards the W. , however, single moun- 
 tains or isolated clusters become more prominent , till they end 
 at last in the pyramid of Monte S. Giuliano , the ancient Eryx , 
 rising precipitously from the sea and standing like a gigantic sen- 
 tinel to guard the W. coast of the island. From this great north- 
 ern range, running from E. to W., various minor chains branch 
 oft towards the S. and S. W. into the heart of the island, leaving 
 both on the E. and W. small littoral plains between them and 
 the sea. From Monte Artesino (3914 ft.) , to the N.W. of Leon- 
 forte , diverges a range which connects the mountains of the N. 
 coast with the isolated group in the S.E. part of the island. More 
 to the W., near the centre of the narrowest part of the island, rises 
 the conspicuous Monte Cammarata (5177 ft.), and still farther W. 
 is a considerable mass culminating in the Monte Rose (4711 ft.). 
 To the S.W. of the latter are the wild and rugged Caltabelotta 
 Mts. (3000 ft.) , the last spur of which is the Monte S. Calogero 
 near Sciacca, celebrated for its hot springs. 
 
 In the S.E. corner of the island is a mountainous district of a 
 very peculiar and interesting geological character, united with the 
 other mountain-systems only by a narrow ridge near Caltagirone. 
 In the heart of it rises the Monte Lauro (3230 ft.), whence the 
 considerable rivers of this part of Sicily descend in all directions 
 through profound ravines and valleys , the sides of which are 
 honeycombed with caverns. These erosions reveal to us the fact, 
 that , while the surface of the mountain consists chiefly of tertiary 
 shell-limestone , this formation alternates lower down with strata 
 of dark volcanic rock. These were most probably formed by the 
 agency of submarine volcanoes at a period prior to the upheaval of 
 Mt. TEtna, the scoriae and other materials emitted by each eruption 
 having been afterwards levelled by the action of the waves and 
 covered with marine deposits. At last came an eruption powerful 
 enough to raise the whole tract above the level of the sea. Nearly 
 the whole remainder of the island, particularly the districts in the 
 middle, and to the S. and S.W., is also composed of the tertiary 
 formation. To this formation , represented mainly by marl, clay, 
 and gypsum , belong extensive deposits of sulphur and rock-salt, 
 the first of which contribute so materially to Sicily’s wealth and 
 prosperity, while the latter are as yet almost untouched. The sul- 
 phur-strata extend westwards as far as the secondary mountain- 
 ranges near Salemi and Partanna , and eastwards as far as the 
 mountains of Judica and Rammacca. Whatever part of the inte- 
 rior of the island the traveller visits, he is sure to stumble upon 
 a sulphur-mine, or meet long trains of waggons or mules conveying 
 
230 
 
 SICILY. Geography and Statistics . 
 
 this ‘yellow gold’ of Sicily to the coast. The richest mines are at 
 Lercara (p. 288), situated on the watershed between the Tyrrhe- 
 nian and African Seas , to the N. of Girgenti, and near Caltanis- 
 setta (p. 295). — The Tertiary Formations in Sicily attain a most 
 unwonted altitude ; the huge rock on which lies Castrogiovanni , 
 the historical Enna (p. 296), rears its head no less than 3270 ft. 
 above the level of the sea. * — The mountains on the N. coast, with 
 the ramifications extending to the Eryx and the Monte San Calogero 
 near Sciacca, belong to the secondary formations, and consist chiefly 
 of calcareous limestone. This limestone is perforated by numerous 
 caverns , in which the bones of huge pachydermata , denizens of 
 the country before its separation from the African continent, and 
 various prehistoric antiquities are frequently found. — The Pe- 
 loric range and the mountains of the N. coast from Messina to Cape 
 Calavd are composed of crystalline rocks of the primary formations, 
 but their bases are overlaid with strata of recent tertiary deposits, 
 so that the older formation seldom comes to light on the coast 
 itself. The identity of the geological structure of this part of the 
 island with that of Calabria is a proof of the intimate connection 
 between Sicily and the Italian peninsula. On both sides of the 
 Strait of Messina the prevailing rock is gneiss , with which are 
 associated small quantities of a fine-grained granite , mica-slate, 
 pegmatite , and granular limestone. The famous rock of Scylla 
 (p. 212), visible from the Faro point, and the peninsula of Milazzo 
 (p. 309), are both formed of fine-grained granite and gneiss. The 
 S. margins of the Peloric Mts. and of the Aspromonte (p. 221) 
 consist of clay-slate. 
 
 Mt . AZtna (10,835 ft.), the loftiest mountain in Sicily and the 
 largest volcano in Europe, rises on the E. side of the island, and is 
 completely detached from the other mountains by the deep valleys 
 of the Simeto and Alcantara. The watershed between these rivers, 
 however, near the Lake of Qurrita , which is sometimes quite dry, 
 attains a considerable height (3792 ft.). The district in which this 
 great volcano rises has evidently been at one time a bay of the 
 sea , still recognisable in the plain of Catania. The mountain is 
 capped with snow throughout the year, except during a few weeks 
 in summer, while in some of the gullies the snow never melts 
 entirely. 
 
 The island contains no Plains of any extent. The most con- 
 siderable is the Piano di Catania ( Ager Leontinus , Campi Laestry - 
 gonii), extending between the rivers Simeto and Gurnalunga. The 
 littoral plains of Terranova (Campi Geloi), Licat a, and Milazzo , 
 the plain between Trapani and Marsala , and the Conca d’Oro near 
 Palermo may also be mentioned. 
 
 The Coasts of Sicily are as a rule steep and rocky, short reaches 
 of flat coast being found in the gulfs of Catania and Terranova, 
 and to the S. of Trapani only. A peculiarity of the Sicilian coast 
 
Geography and Statistics. SICILY. 
 
 231 
 
 is found in the numerous narrow peninsulas lying in front of it, 
 which have in comparatively recent times only ceased to he islands, 
 and which almost invariably form good harbours. Of this nature 
 are the peninsulas of Syracuse , Augusta , Trapani , Milazzo , and 
 Messina. (The strikingly picturesque Monte Pellegrino , near Pa- 
 lermo, was also at one time an island off the coast.) To these capa- 
 cious natural harbours falls to be added the artificial one of Pa- 
 lermo , the somewhat inadequate successor of the famous ancient 
 harbour , which has been gradually silted up during the geological 
 elevation of the W. coast of Sicily. The same cause has rendered 
 the fine harbour of Trapani almost useless. The S. coast is per- 
 fectly destitute of natural harbours , and therefore unapproach- 
 able in stormy weather; but artificial harbours have recently been 
 constructed at great expense at Porto Empedocle and Licata. 
 
 The Rivers of Sicily are very numerous , but none of them 
 are large , and with a few exceptions they all dry up in summer. 
 The district of primary formations in the N. E. of the island does 
 not contain a single perennial water-course , but many broad Fiu - 
 mare , or river-beds , filled after heavy rain with turbulent and 
 destructive torrents , which carry down large masses of the easily 
 detached rock , and refuse to be confined within embankments, 
 often causing widespread devastation. During this century espe- 
 cially, since most of the primeval forests have been cut down, the 
 disintegration of the rocks on the mountains and the destruction 
 of the orchards on their slopes and at their base, caused by these 
 torrents, have assumed startling proportions. The stony beds of 
 the ‘fiumare’ are sometimes upwards of ife M. wide at the mouth, 
 and even in winter are traversed by a mere thread of water only. 
 The numerous streams towards the S.E., which take their rise in 
 the porous, honeycombed limestone hills , are , on the other hand, 
 comparatively copious in the lower part of their course. Water 
 may generally be found by digging below the dry beds of the 
 fiumare even in summer. The principal rivers, none of which are 
 navigable , are the Simeto (which receives the Fiume Salso , Dit- 
 taino , and Gurnalunga , and waters a great part of E. Sicily), the 
 Alcantara , the Fiume Salso (Himera Meridionalis) , the Platani, 
 the Belice , the Oreto , and the S. Leonardo near Termini. (In the 
 Map at the end of the Handbook the water-courses which dry up 
 in summer are coloured brown, and those which contain water 
 throughout the whole year are blue.) 
 
 The splendid Forests with which Sicily was originally covered, 
 and which yielded the admirable ship-building timber mentioned 
 so often in the days of the Greek and Saracenic domination, have 
 been disappearing rapidly under the axe of the woodman since 
 the 16th cent., and especially since the beginning of this century. 
 In the 11th cent, the Monte Lauro was still clothed with forests of 
 pines and fir, and in the 15th cent, the Monte Pellegrino, now 
 
232 
 
 SICILY. Geography and Statistics . 
 
 conspicuous for its baldness , was clothed with underwood. The 
 total area of the forests in Sicily in 1857 was estimated at 170,000 
 acres , but this has probably greatly decreased , as the forests of 
 JStna then covered 125,000 acres, while the whole province of 
 Catania now contains only 60,000 acres of wood. The only con- 
 siderable forests are those of TEtna and the mountains on the N. 
 coast , the finest of which are the Caronian Forest and the Bosco 
 di Ficuzza on the Busambra , where the Bourbon sovereigns used 
 to hunt when they resided at Palermo. These woods consist of 
 oaks, chestnuts, elms, ashes, etc., and are carpeted with thick 
 green underwood like the woods of Central Europe , while others 
 nearer the coast and in lower situations consist mainly of isolated 
 evergreen oaks ( Quercus Ilex , Quercus Suber , etc.). Pine-forests 
 are found in the ^Etna region only. The Macchie , a kind of thicket 
 of dense, almost impenetrable, and often thorny bushes, 5-6 ft. 
 high, peculiar to the regions of the Mediterranean, and growing on 
 the denuded sites of former forests, are less common in Sicily than 
 in neighbouring lands. 
 
 Products and Cultivation. The current impression that only 
 a small portion of the area of Sicily is cultivated , is quite er- 
 roneous. In 1857 it was estimated that about 200,000 acres only 
 were unproductive, and 1,600,000 acres under pasture, leaving 
 5,500,000 acres, or 3/4 of the whole area, under cultivation. Since 
 that date , moreover, a large proportion , probably about one-half, 
 of these unproductive lands have been reclaimed , chiefly through 
 the partition of large estates falling into the hands of government 
 on the failure of heirs. The value of pasture in Sicily may be 
 gathered from the fact that an annual rental of 25,000 fr. has been 
 paid for the apparently barren Mte. Pellegrino near Palermo. 
 
 The cultivation of the soil has made rapid strides within the 
 last few decades, especially since 1860, and arboriculture has of 
 late become one of the chief occupations of the farmer. The greater 
 part of the island is still devoted to the production of wheat, but 
 the culture of fruit-trees, especially of the Citri (the generic term 
 for oranges, lemons, and citrons), is found to be still more lucrative, 
 and assumes ever-increasing proportions. In the Conca d’Oro near 
 Palermo the yield of a hectare ( 2 Y 2 acres) of lemon-trees averages 
 4300 fr., and that of a hectare of orange-trees 2900 fr. per annum. 
 The export of these fruits , particularly to the United States , is 
 steadily increasing, and has now reached the value of 80,000,000 fr. 
 annually. They are shipped in almost equal quantities from Pa- 
 lermo and Messina , being cultivated most sedulously on the N. 
 coast from Partinico to Messina, and on the E. coast as far S. as 
 Catania. The orange and lemon harvest lasts from November to 
 March, but the fruit does not thoroughly ripen till January. Dur- 
 ing the hot season the trees require a constant supply of water. 
 About one-fifth of the whole island is now devoted to the culti- 
 
Geography and Statistics. SICILY. 
 
 233 
 
 vation of trees of various kinds, the products of which are exported 
 to the value of 135,000,000 fr. annually, a sum that will appear 
 still more considerable when it is remembered that nine-tenths 
 of the islanders themselves subsist entirely on wheaten bread, 
 fruit, and fish. This branch of agriculture is interesting, not only 
 from an economical but also from a social and moral point of view. 
 The constant attention which arboriculture demands renders it 
 impossible for the agricultural labourers to live in crowded vil- 
 lages, often at a considerable distance from their daily work ; so 
 that this branch of agriculture tends to a more equal distribution 
 of the population, and contributes to improve their moral con- 
 dition. Sicily at present contains about 500 of these over-grown 
 villages of agricultural labourers , with an average population of 
 5000 each, but the people are now beginning to descend from their 
 rocky nests and settle among the fields. 
 
 Another prevalent error with regard to Sicily is that its fertility 
 has decreased. Rain still falls in sufficient quantity to make the 
 fruits of the field as plentiful now as of yore , in spite of the poor 
 agricultural implements and the want of manuring. The porous 
 nature of the soil and the hilly character of the ground greatly facil- 
 itate its irrigation, and volcanic agencies also tend in some districts 
 to prevent undue exhaustion. In the time of Cicero the crops of 
 wheat in the Leontinian Fields, the best land in the island, yielded 
 a ten-fold return, whereas at the present time the average return 
 for the whole of Sicily is eleven-fold. The total quantity of grain 
 produced at the same period (at which , however , a falling - off 
 had begun to be perceptible) amounted annually to about two- 
 thirds only of the present crop, and arboriculture had scarcely been 
 attempted. Wheat , Barley , and Beans, which form almost the 
 only crops, cover all the available level districts in the island. As 
 the Sicilian wheat is of excellent quality and commands a high price, 
 it is usually exported, while an inferior kind is imported for home 
 consumption ; but the already - mentioned concentration of the 
 population in a few large villages , the peculiarity of the farm- 
 tenure , the inferiority of the agricultural implements , and the 
 occasional deficiency of hands , which is supplied in many parts 
 by peasants from Calabria , are unfavourable to the agricultural 
 prosperity of the country. The fields on the N. and E. coasts, like 
 those in Sardinia and N. Africa, are enclosed by Cactus-hedges 
 (Opuntia Ficus Indica and Opuntia Amyclaea) , which frequently 
 attain a considerable height. Their fruit , the cactus-fig , of a 
 sweetish, somewhat insipid taste, is much esteemed by the natives, 
 who in autumn use it to a considerable extent as a substitute for 
 bread. In some places , such as the plain of the Conca d’Oro near 
 Palermo , there are whole fields of the cactus, the yield of which 
 is very considerable. The Cotton culture , which was greatly ex- 
 tended during the American civil war, has since then declined, as 
 
234 
 
 SICILY. Geography and Statistics. 
 
 the Sicilian cotton is very inferior to the American. Sumach ( Rhus 
 coriaria , the leaves of which are used in tanning and as a black 
 dye) and linseed are among the staple exports. Other products 
 exported, besides the Citri and their essential oils, are almonds, 
 olive oil, wine (Marsala, Riposto, Catania, Yittoria, and Siracusa), 
 nuts , capers , pistachios , manna , liquorice, lentils , and raisins. 
 The chief animal products are silk, hides, wool, anchovies, tunny- 
 fish , and cantharides. Mineral products: sulphur, salt, and 
 marble. The island possesses no mines of the precious metals or of 
 coal. Many of the merchants are Germans and Swiss, who have to 
 a great extent taken the place of the English , but the Sicilians 
 themselves are now beginning to turn their attention more zea- 
 lously to commerce. About two-thirds of the manufactured goods 
 imported into Sicily , as well as Italy, pass through the hands of 
 Swiss and German merchants. The statistics relating to the ex- 
 ports and imports are untrustworthy, but it is ascertained that 
 the former are far more considerable than the latter. This will be 
 still more the case as agriculture advances in consequence of the 
 partition of the vast landed estates and the promotion of the public 
 safety. 
 
 Climate. The climate of Sicily, which may be described gener- 
 ally as of a marine character, is a most delightful one , and in 
 equableness is second to that of Madeira alone. This is especially 
 true of the climate of Palermo , which is rapidly coming into favour 
 as a winter residence for invalids. Catania is somewhat colder in 
 winter, and is moreover exposed to sudden changes of temperature 
 on account of the proximity of Mt. .Etna. Messina and Syracuse 
 are windy places. 
 
 In Sicily the year consists of two seasons only , the rainy and 
 the dry. The Rainy Season corresponds with the winter of Cen- 
 tral Europe, and is marked by a fall of temperature. The freezing- 
 point , however, is seldom reached , except occasionally just be- 
 fore dawn , and there are few winter days when one cannot sit 
 comfortably in the open air in a sheltered situation. The rainy 
 season is at the same time that of the most luxuriant vegetation. 
 It is ushered in by thunder-storms in September and October, 
 sets in steadily in November, generally relaxes somewhat in Jan- 
 uary, ends towards the close of March , and is followed by a few 
 violent thunder-storms in April and May. In June, July, and Au- 
 gust, but particularly in July, almost no rain falls, but the heat is 
 tempered by the proximity of the sea. Continuous rain is, how- 
 ever, rare, even in the wet season, and there are seldom more than 
 half-a-dozen days in the year absolutely without sunshine. Cicero’s 
 remark on Syracuse , that the sun shines there every day without 
 exception, is almost literally true. The heaviest rainfall occurs in 
 December. In Palermo it averages 22 inches per annum, of which 
 3 in. fall in December and only about in July; in Syracuse 
 
Geography and Statistics. SICILY. 
 
 235 
 
 the rain-fall is 16 in. , with practically none in June, July, and 
 August. Wheat is sown at the beginning of the rains, and reaped 
 shortly after their close. 
 
 The Winds also vary in accordance with these two divisions of 
 the year. From October to March the rainy W.S.W. wind, blowing 
 from the equatorial regions , prevails ; from May to August the 
 prevalent wind blows from the N.E., forming a continuation of 
 the trade-winds from beyond the N. pole; while in April and 
 September these winds blow alternately. Violent winds, with the 
 exception of the Scirocco , are rare , and the barometrical changes 
 are on the whole slight. The Scirocco is one of the few drawbacks 
 to the climate of Sicily. It visits Palermo, where it is particul- 
 arly disagreeable, about twelve times a year, and may occur in any 
 month , though it is most frequent and most violent in April and 
 the short transitionary seasons generally. On the E. coast it is 
 generally charged with moisture, but at Palermo it is hot and dry. 
 The highest temperature ever observed in the shade at Palermo 
 (105° Fahr.) was registered during the scirocco. During its con- 
 tinuance the sky is of a dull, leaden appearance, often with a tinge 
 of red , occasioned by the columns of dust which the storm fre- 
 quently brings with it from a long distance. If rain falls , these 
 fine particles of dust occasion the phenomenon known as ‘blood 
 rain’, which may be easily collected on the foliage of the trees. 
 Meteorologists seem now for the most part agreed that the scirocco 
 is one of the hot periodical storm-winds , which blow from the 
 Sahara in all directions (such as the Harmattan , Khamsin , etc.). 
 Its effect , often less felt at first by visitors from the N. than by 
 the natives , is to occasion a difficulty of breathing and lassitude, 
 which unfit one for work, especially of a mental nature. The sci- 
 rocco, however, often lasts for a few hours only, and rarely for 
 more than three days. 
 
 One of the great advantages of the climate of Sicily, as already 
 observed, is its equableness, sudden changes of temperature being 
 rare. The heat at Palermo in summer is little greater than at 
 Florence, while the winters are remarkably mild. The mean tem- 
 perature in August, the hottest month, is 78° Fahr., and in Jan- 
 uary, the coldest month, 52°, the difference being 26° only, while 
 the mean annual temperature is about 64°. The lowest tempe- 
 rature yet recorded at the observatory at Palermo has been 35°, but 
 it is known that the mercury occasionally descends 3-4° below the 
 freezing-point in the early morning almost every winter. During 
 December, January, February, and March the thermometer remains 
 at almost the same level , and abrupt changes are very rare, espe- 
 cially at Palermo , which is sheltered from the N. wind by the 
 Monte Pellegrino. The mean daily range of temperature at Pa- 
 lermo is about 12°, in winter less, and on some days not more than 
 4-5°. Catania has a mean annual temperature of 65° ; in summer 
 
236 
 
 SICILY. Geography and Statistics . 
 
 it is warmer than Palermo, and in winter colder. The daily range 
 of temperature is also somewhat greater, and a difference of 41° 
 has been noticed within 24 hours. 
 
 Mineral Baths, most of them sulphureous, and already famous 
 in ancient times, are established at Sciacca on the Monte S. Calo- 
 gero (Thermae Selinuntinae), at Termini (Thermae Himerenses), at 
 Termini di Castro near Bareellona , and at Acireale near Catania. 
 The bath-arrangements are very defective, those at Acireale and 
 the two Termini being the best. 
 
 The Population of the island, according to the census of 
 31st Dec. 1875, amounts to 2,716,672, or on an average 237 souls 
 per Engl. sq. M. National schools have been established every- 
 where under the new regime, and the towns now possess com- 
 mercial ( scuola tecnica and istituto tecnico~) and grammar schools, 
 but the number of ‘analfabeti’ (persons who can neither read nor 
 write) still amounts to four-fifths of the whole population ( 9 / 10 ths 
 in 1864). 
 
 Districts. From the Saracen period down to the beginning of 
 the present century the island was divided into three districts : the 
 Vat (Welaia) di Demone, the N.E. portion; the Val di Noto, the 
 S.E. part; and the Val di Mazzara , to the S.W. Since 1817 it has 
 been divided into seven prefectures : (1) Palermo , with 664,359 
 inhab. ; (2) Trapani, with 248,266; ( 3 ) Girgenti, with 304,787 ; 
 (4) Caltanissetta , with 242,359; (5) Catania , with 517,076; (6) 
 Siracusa , with 306,775; (7) Messina , with 433,050 inhabitants. 
 
 Towns. The principal towns are Palermo, Messina, Catania, 
 Modica, Trapani, Termini, Acireale, and Caltagirone. Of the 120- 
 130 towns in the kingdom of Italy which contain above 10,000 in- 
 hab. upwards of one-quarter belong to Sicily. This is explained 
 by the fact, that owing to the constant wars of the middle ages, 
 the predatory incursions of barbarians, and the insecure state of 
 the country, it was unsafe for the peasantry to live in villages, and 
 this class has therefore mainly contributed to swell the population 
 of the towns. 
 
 Measures. Besides the official metre , the following standards 
 are still used: 1 canna = 8 palmi — 2.065 metres = 2y 4 yds. ; 
 
 1 palmo = 12 once = 0.258 metre. 
 
Historical Notice. 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 237 
 
 Historical Notice. 
 
 1. Political History. 
 
 First Period. According to the traditions of ancient Greek 
 mariners, Sicily was once inhabited by Cyclopes, Gigantes, Loto- 
 phagi, Laestrygones, etc., whom Sicilian historians have endea- 
 voured to classify into iron-workers, stone-workers , farmers, and 
 gardeners. The most ancient inhabitants of Sicily were a prehistoric 
 race , the only certain traces of whom are the flint implements 
 found in various parts of the island and perhaps a few of the stone 
 monuments. They were followed by the Sicani , who were believed 
 by some authorities to be of Iberian, by others of Celtic origin. It 
 is more probable, however, that they belonged to an Italian race. 
 They dwelt at first in the E. part of the island , but within the 
 period embraced in history are found only in the W., between the 
 Tyrrhenian Sea (Hykkara) and the Libyan Sea. The deserted terri- 
 tory of the Sicani to the E. was taken possession of before B.C. 
 1000 by the Sikeli , a tribe related to the Latins, which, as some 
 authorities believe, had already had a warlike history and made 
 maritime raids upon Egypt. They dwelt in the S.E. corner of the 
 island, in the middle of its E. half, especially in the valley of the 
 Symaithus, and on the N. coast. Their principal towns were: S. 
 Hybla , Menai (Mineo), Morgantium , N. Hybla (Paterno), Centuripe , 
 Agyrion($. Filippo d’Agiro), Assorus (Asaro), Aluntium (S. Marco), 
 and Agathyrnum (near C. Orlando). The Phoenicians , coming from 
 the E., founded numerous colonies on the coast, and the Elymi , 
 supposed to be descended from the Trojans, occupied Segesta , Eryx 
 (with the sanctuary of Aphrodite), Entella , and other settlements. 
 The Greeks make their appearance in Sicily in B.C. 735, when 
 the Ionian Theocles of Chalcis (or Athens) founded Naxos , at the 
 mouth of the Cantara. During the following year Dorians from 
 Corinth under Archias founded Syracuse ; and in 728 Megara Hy- 
 blaea , another Dorian colony, was settled by Lamis of Megara. 
 Zankle (afterwards Messana) was peopled by Ionians , who also 
 founded Leontini and Catana (729). A Dorian character was 
 impressed upon the S. coast by the foundation of Gela (Terranova) 
 by Rhodians and Cretans in 689, of Selinus by Megara in 628, and 
 of Acragas (Girgenti) by Gela in 581. The Dorians also made 
 themselves masters of the S.E. corner of Sicily through the Syra- 
 cusan colonies of Acrae (664), Casmenae (624), and Camarina (589). 
 Himera (648), the only Greek colony on the N. coast, was a joint 
 settlement, in which the Ionian element preponderated. The oc- 
 cupation of the Lipari Islands in B.C. 580 marks the close of the 
 spread of the Hellenic power in Sicily, and the beginning of the 
 Semitic reaction. The Phoenicians, who on the approach of the 
 Greeks had retired to Solus (or Soloeis ), Panormus , and Motye , now 
 
238 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 Historical Notice . 
 
 placed themselves under the protection of Carthage and thus 
 imposed a check upon the farther progress of Hellenisation. The 
 Sikelians in the E. part of the island, however, became almost 
 entirely subject to the Greeks. 
 
 The Greek colonies , as they grew in population , soon began 
 to suffer from internal dissensions between the different classes of 
 citizens. This led to the formation of codes of law, of which that 
 of Charondas of Catana is the most famous, and to the establishment 
 of tyrannies , a form of government which attained its most char- 
 acteristic development in this island. The most notorious of the 
 ancient tyrants was Phalaris of Acragas . About the year 500 we find 
 tyrants ruling over most of the cities, of whom Gelon of Syracuse 
 and Theron of Acragas, united by ties of family and interest, rescued 
 the Greek sway from the perils which threatened it, when, at the 
 time of the 2nd Persian War, the Greeks of the western sea were 
 attacked by the Carthaginians. In 480, however, the Greek cause 
 was victorious at the battle of Himera, the Salamis of Sicily. The 
 short but brilliant golden age of Hellenic Sicily now began, sullied 
 only by the destruction of the Chalcidian towns of the E. coast by 
 Gelon and Hiero. The greater number of the temples and aqueducts 
 at Syracuse, Girgenti, Selinunto, Himera, etc., the ruins of which 
 excite such admiration at the present day, were erected between 480 
 and 450. But internal municipal struggles, fomented by the demo- 
 cratic parties of the different cities, and the renewed antagonism of 
 the Doric and Ionic-Achaean elements paved the way for a cata- 
 strophe, to which the great Athenian campaign against Syracuse in 
 413 contributed. Previously to this the Greeks had a formidable 
 enemy to subdue in Ducetius of Netum(Noto), who united the towns 
 of the Sikeli in a confederacy against the Greeks (461-440), but this 
 league was compelled to succumb to the united forces of Syracuse 
 and Acragas. What the Sicilians had failed in effecting was now 
 attempted with more success by the great power of Africa. The 
 Carthaginians now began their most formidable attacks. Selinus 
 and Himera were destroyed by them in 409, Acragas taken in 406, 
 Gela and Camarina conquered and rendered tributary to Carthage 
 in 405, and Messana razed to the ground in 396. These events were 
 instrumental in causing the rise of Dionysius I. in Syracuse (406), 
 who extended and fortified the town, and after a war of varied 
 success finally drove back the Carthaginians in 382 to the Halycus 
 (Platani). Down to his death in 367 Dionysius was master of the 
 destinies of Syracuse, and with it of Sicily ; the greater part of Magna 
 Grsecia was also subject to his sway, and he even intervened several 
 times with effect in the affairs of Greece itself. Syracuse never again 
 attained to such a pinnacle of power. On his death dissensions began 
 anew. Dionysius II, was inferior to his father, and Dion able as a 
 philosopher only. Timoleon , however, succeeded in 343-336 in 
 restoring some degree of order, defeated the Carthaginians in 340 on 
 
Historical Notice . 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 239 
 
 the Crimissus (Bilice), and again restricted their territory to the 
 W. of the Halycus. But even his brilliant example availed little 
 to arrest the increasing degeneracy of the people. In 317-289 
 Agathocles usurped the sovereignty of Syracuse, and in 310 the 
 Carthaginians besieged the city, although unsuccessfully. The 
 brilliant African campaign of Agathocles was without enduring re- 
 sult. Pyrrhus too, who had wrested the whole island as far as Lily- 
 baeum from the Carthaginians, soon quitted it again for Italy (278- 
 276), dissatisfied with the prevailing anarchy and disunion. In 
 274 Hiero II, usurped the tyranny of Syracuse. His siege of Mes- 
 sana, of which Campanian mercenaries, or Mamertines, had treach- 
 erously taken possession , compelled the latter to sue for Roman 
 aid. Thus it was that the Romans obtained a footing in the island, 
 and the struggle between them and the Carthaginians , who had 
 supported Hiero, now began. The chequered contest for the sover- 
 eignty of Sicily lasted from 264 to 241. Hiero, who in 263 had 
 become an ally of Rome, ruled over a small independent kingdom 
 on the E. coast, even after the final expulsion of the Carthaginians. 
 After the death of Hiero II. his successor Hieronymus espoused the 
 cause of Hannibal, in consequence of which Syracuse was besieged 
 by Marcellus in 214-212, taken, and sacked. In 210, after the 
 conquest of Agrigentum , the island became the first Roman pro- 
 vince, and was divided into two districts or qusesturse, Lilyhaetana 
 (with the capital Lilybaeum, now Marsala) and Syracusana , 
 
 Second Period. At first the Romans endeavoured to improve 
 the agriculture of the island, which had suffered seriously during 
 the protracted wars, with a view to render Sicily a more profitable 
 province. The system of cultivation borrowed from the Carthagi- 
 nians was indeed successfully employed in rendering Sicily the 
 granary of Italy, but at the same time it proved the occasion of 
 the Servile Wars (139-131 and 104-101), which devastated the 
 island to a greater extent than the Punic wars. Under the Roman 
 governors the ancient prosperity of Sicily steadily declined. The 
 notorious Verres in particular impoverished it greatly during his 
 term of office in 73-71. The civil war between Octavianus and 
 Sextus Pompeius , who had made himself master of Sicily (43-36) 
 but was defeated by Agrippa in the naval battle of Naulochus (on 
 the N. coast, near Mylac), also accelerated its ruin, so that Augustus 
 was obliged in a great measure to repeople the island and re-erect 
 the towns. Little is known of its internal affairs after this date. 
 With regard to the dissemination of Christianity in Sicily numer- 
 ous traditions are current, and are preserved in the different mar- 
 tyrologies. It is recorded (Acts xxviii. 12) that St. Paul landed 
 at Syracuse on his journey to Rome and spent three days there, 
 and the evidence of monuments goes to confirm the local legends 
 of missionaries from the E., and to refute the later pretensions of 
 Rome to the establishment of Christianity in Sicily. Syracuse 
 
240 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 Historical Notice . 
 
 would thus seem to have taken an important part in the spread of 
 the Christian religion. After the end of the 3rd cent, the new 
 religion made rapid progress, and in the reign of Constantine it had 
 become practically the universal faith, though heathens still existed 
 in Sicily down to the 6th century. It is now, however, the boast 
 of the Sicilians that their island has never produced a prominent 
 heretic, and in 1860 the minister of ecclesiastical affairs expressed 
 his approval of the unity of the Sicilians in matters of religion. 
 The Spanish inquisition found but few victims here. The Sicilian 
 of the present day is, however, far from being intolerant , while 
 the majority of the educated classes are generally indifferent with 
 regard to these questions. 
 
 After another servile war had devastated the country (A.D. 
 259), Syracuse began, in 278, to suffer from the incursions of bar- 
 barian hordes, when it was plundered by a mere handful of wan- 
 dering Franks. In B.C. 27 Sicily had become the first of the ten 
 senatorial provinces , according to Augustus’s distribution of the 
 empire, and then a province of the diocese of Italy, according to the 
 arrangement of Diocletian ; but in 395 it was separated from the 
 "W. and attached to the E. empire, whereby it escaped the fate of 
 neither. In 440 Geiserich besieged Palermo and conquered Lily- 
 bseum (Marsala). Odoacer made himself master of Sicily, and 
 the island afterwards became subject to the Ostrogoths. In 535 
 Belisarius brought it under the sway of the Eastern emperors, who 
 retained it till its conquest by the Arabs. — The Romish church 
 had great possessions in Sicily, and Pope Gregory I. was a zealous 
 promoter of the cultivation of the island. Constans II. even 
 transferred the seat of the E. empire to Syracuse in 663, but he 
 was murdered there in 668, and the city was plundered by the 
 Arabs the following year. 
 
 Third Period. In 827 the Saracens , under Ased-ibn-Forat, 
 on the invitation of the governor Euphemius, landed near Mazzara. 
 Four years later Palermo fell into their hands , and that city now 
 became the capital , and swayed the destinies of the island. The 
 Saracens, conquering one city after another, overran the whole is- 
 land , and in 878 Syracuse was taken by Ibrahim - ibn - Ahmed . 
 Although the Christians could now maintain themselves in the 
 N.E. angle of the island only, and even there were deprived of 
 Taormina in 902, and finally of Rametta in 965, yet the establish- 
 ment of a lasting peace was rendered impossible by the antagonism 
 between their Arabian and Berber conquerors, which continually 
 led to sanguinary conflicts. To these evils were added the changes 
 of dynasty. At first the Aghlabites of Kairvan ruled. Then Sicily 
 became an independent emirate under the Fatimite Sovereigns of 
 Egypt. The latter half of the 10th cent, was the most prosperous 
 period of Sicily under the Mohammedan sway. But the sanguinary 
 struggles of the Sunnites and Shyites in Africa, where the Zirites 
 
Historical Notice. 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 241 
 
 and usurped the supremacy, were soon transplanted hither, and 
 the insurrection of several cities accelerated the downfall of the 
 Arabian dynasty. In spite of these unfavourable circumstances, 
 the prosperity of the island had during this period considerably 
 increased, and agriculture, industry, and commerce had progressed 
 so greatly that the Norman conquerors found the island a most 
 valuable acquisition. 
 
 About the middle of the 11th cent., after an ineffectual at- 
 tempt to conquer the island had been made by George Maniaces, 
 a Greek , in 1038-41, Robert and Roger de Hauteville , sons of 
 Tancred of Hauteville in Normandy, went to Italy on the invi- 
 tation of their elder brothers, who had declared themselves 
 Counts of Apulia. Robert, subsequently surnamed Guiscard , i.e . 
 ‘the Shrewd’, compelled the pope to invest him with the Duchy 
 of Apulia, and then, after Ibn-Thimna of Syracuse had already in- 
 voked his aid, proceeded from Mileto with his brother Roger to con- 
 quer Sicily in 1061. The first expedition did not immediately 
 produce the desired result. But ten years later they returned, and 
 by 1090 the entire island was subdued. The line of Robert Guis- 
 card having become extinct in 1127, the second son of Roger 
 ( Ruggiero ) united the whole of the Norman conquests under his 
 sceptre, and caused himself to he crowned as king at Palermo in 
 1130. During his reign Sicily prospered, and its fleets conquered 
 the Arabs and the Greeks, from whom they wrested a portion of 
 ancient Greece (Romania). He was succeeded by his second son 
 William (1154-66), surnamed by the monkish and feudal chroni- 
 clers ‘the Bad\ who was followed by his son William II. , ‘ the 
 Good ’ (di 1189). After the death of the latter a contest as to the 
 succession arose. William II. had given his aunt Constance, 
 daughter of Roger, to Henry VI., son of Frederick Barbarossa, in 
 marriage, and that monarch now laid claim to the crown. The Si- 
 cilians, however, declared themselves in favour of Tancred , a na- 
 tural son of Roger. On his death shortly afterwards he was suc- 
 ceeded by his son William III., whom Henry VI. had less diffi- 
 culty in subduing (1194). Henry did not long enjoy his conquest, 
 and died at Messina in 1197. He was succeeded by the Emperor 
 Frederick II., as Frederick I. of Sicily, whose exertions in behalf 
 of Sicily have been so highly extolled by posterity. In 1250-54 
 his second son Conrad occupied the throne ; then Manfred until 
 the battle of Benevento in 1266 ; and in 1268 Charles of Anjou 
 caused the last scion of the Germanic imperial house to be exe- 
 cuted (see p. 41). 
 
 Fourth Period. Charles of Anjou and Provence maintained 
 his supremacy in Sicily, with which he had been invested by Pope 
 Clement IV., for but a brief period. The massacre of the Sicilian 
 Vespers (1282) was an expiation of the death of Conradin. Messina 
 defended itself heroically against the attacks of Charles ; and Peter 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 10 
 
242 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 Historical Notice . 
 
 of Arragon, son-in-law of Manfred, became master of the island. 
 But its decline dates from this period. It was repeatedly devastated 
 by the interminable wars with the Anjous of Naples, while the no- 
 bility, such as the Chiaramonte and the Ventimiglia, attained to 
 such power as to render systematic administration on the part of 
 the government impossible. In 1410, when Sicily became an ap- 
 panage of the kingdoms of Naples and Spain , it still retained 
 its freedom of internal administration. But this very privilege 
 proved prejudicial to it, whilst its external defence against the 
 barbarians was neglected. During the second half of the 18th cent, 
 many mediaeval institutions were swept away by the advance of ci- 
 vilisation , and in 1812 Sicily was finally rescued from the con- 
 dition of a mediaeval feudal state , but only to experience once 
 more (1815-1860) the evils of a despotic government. The follow- 
 ing is a chronological sketch of the history of this period of six 
 centuries : — 
 
 Peter of Arragon, King of Sicily . 
 
 James the Just. 
 
 Frederick II. 
 
 Peter II., co-regent from 1321. 
 
 Louis. 
 
 Frederick III. the Simple, brother of Louis. 
 Mary, daughter of Frederick III., married in 
 1485 to Martin of Arragon. 
 
 1402-1409. Martin I. sole monarch of Sicily , married to 
 Bianca of Castille. 
 
 Martin II., father of Martin I. 
 
 Interregnum. 
 
 Ferdinand the Just, King of Arragon and 
 Castille. 
 
 Alphonso the Generous, King of Arragon, and 
 after 1442 King of Naples. 
 
 John of Arragon and Navarre. 
 
 Ferdinand II. the Catholic, after 1505 also 
 King of Naples. 
 
 1515-1554. Emp. Charles V.; 1517, Squarcialupo’s re- 
 bellion at Palermo. 
 
 Philip II. 
 
 Philip III. 
 
 Philip IV.; 1647, 
 
 Giuseppe Alessi. 
 
 1665-1700. Charles II.; 1672-1678, Messina revolts in 
 favour of Louis XIV. of France. 
 
 c. 1700-1713. Philip V. of Bourbon, after 1713 King of Spain. 
 
 d . 1713-1720. Victor Amadeus of Savoy. 
 
 e. 1720-1734. Emp. Charles VI. of Germany. 
 
 /\ 1734-1759. Charles III. of Bourbon. 
 
 1282-1285. 
 
 1285-1296. 
 
 1296-1337. 
 
 1337-1342. 
 
 1342-1355. 
 
 1355-1377. 
 
 1377-1402. 
 
 1409- 1410. 
 
 1410- 1412. 
 1412-1416. 
 
 1416-1458. 
 
 1458-1479. 
 
 1479-1515. 
 
 1554-1598. 
 
 1598-1621. 
 
 1621-1665. 
 
 Revolution at Palermo, 
 
243 
 
 History of Art. SICILY. 
 
 1759-1806. 
 
 1806-1815. 
 
 1815-1825. 
 
 1825-1830. 
 
 1830-1859. 
 
 1859- 1860. 
 Fifth Period : 
 
 1860- 1880. 
 
 Ferdinand IV., King of Naples and Sicily, 
 married to Carolina, the profligate daughter of 
 Maria Theresa, was compelled in 1798 to fly 
 from Naples to Sicily before the French under 
 Championnet, and again in 1806. 
 
 Ferdinand IV., King of Sicily alone. Through 
 the influence of Lord William H. C. Bentinck 
 the constitution of Sicily is established and a 
 parliament summoned (1812). 
 
 Ferdinand IV. reigns as Ferdinand I., ‘King 
 of the two Sicilies’. The constitution subvert- 
 ed. 1820, Revolution at Palermo and throughout 
 the island for the restoration of the constitution. 
 Francis I. 
 
 Ferdinand II.; 1837, cholera-revolution; Jan. 
 12th, 1848, revolution at Palermo ; 1848-49, 
 Sicily ruled by a temporary government , par- 
 liament at Palermo ; bombardment of Messina. 
 Francis II. 
 
 Sicily united with the Kingdom of Italy; 11th 
 May, Garibaldi lands at Marsala; 15th May, 
 battle of Calatafimi; 27th May, capture of Pa- 
 lermo ; 20th July, Battle of Milazzo ; 21st Oc- 
 tober, plebiscite, by which Sicily is incorpo- 
 rated with the Kingdom of Italy. 
 
 2. History of Civilisation and Art. 
 
 Almost every one of the numerous nations which in the course 
 of centuries have inhabited or governed Sicily has left behind it 
 some trace of its individual capacity for art, modified, however, to 
 some extent by the characteristics peculiar to the island, and there- 
 fore in most cases bearing a Sicilian stamp. Cicero has observed 
 that the Sicilian is never so miserable as to be unable to utter a 
 bon-mot, and a similar remark might be made at the present day. 
 The Sicilians of all ages have displayed marked , though not bril- 
 liant abilities. Their wit, flow of conversation, and power of re- 
 partee were universally known to the ancients. It was not, there- 
 fore, the result of mere chance that Greek comedy attained its 
 earliest development here , and that bucolic poetry originated in 
 Sicily, where to this day the natives delight in rural life. Sicily 
 has in all ages produced admirable speakers , although rather 
 sophists and phraseologists than great orators. In the study of the 
 history of their island the natives have ever manifested the utmost 
 zeal, and for the concrete sciences as far as they are connected with 
 practical life, such as mechanics and medicine, they possess con- 
 siderable aptitude. In the manufacture of objects of an artistic 
 
 16 * 
 
244 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 History of Art. 
 
 character (ill opposition to pure works of art), as in architecture, 
 the art of engraving, the composition of mosaics, etc., the Sicilians 
 have from a very early period distinguished themselves. It must 
 not he forgotten, however, that the Saracenic supremacy introduced 
 a new and important element into the national character, which 
 shows itself in a vein of seriousness , foreign to the character of 
 neighbouring races, such as the Neapolitans. The national songs, 
 for example , are strongly tinctured with Oriental melancholy. 
 
 The monuments of Sikelian culture of the pre-Hellenic period 
 still preserved in Sicily, although far more scanty than the Greek, 
 merit a more minute examination than has hitherto fallen to their 
 share. Prehistoric antiquities have recently been investigated in 
 several different spots , and traces of the flint period have been 
 found in caverns and elsewhere. The most important antiquities 
 of a somewhat later date are : the Subterranean Cities with which 
 the S.E. angle of the island is replete , the so-called Didieri of 
 Yal d’lspica, Palazzolo, Pantelica, etc., and the Polygonal Struc- 
 tures at Cefalii and on Mt. Eryx. 
 
 The Metopes of Selinus , mementoes of the most ancient style, 
 form the transition to the Hellenic sculpture. Some of the most 
 magnificent Greek temples still extant have been erected in Sicily : 
 Temple of Apollo at Selinus 376ft. long, 177ft. broad; Temple of 
 Zeus at Girgenti 356 ft. long, 174 ft. broad (Parthenon at Athens 
 229 ft. by 101 ft. ; Temple of Zeus at Olympia 233 ft. by 97 ft.; 
 Temple of Apollo at Phigalia 195 ft. by 75 ft. ; Temple of Diana at 
 Ephesus 388 ft. by 187 ft.). The Ruined Temples at Girgenti, Se- 
 gesta, Selinunto,’ and Syracuse are nowhere surpassed. The Theatres 
 of Syracuse, Taormina, Segesta, Tyndaris, Palazzolo, and Catania 
 have indeed been modified by additions during the Roman period, 
 but the Greek origin of their foundations and arrangements may 
 easily be recognised. The fortifications of the Epipolae of Syracuse 
 are among the best existing specimens of Greek structures of the 
 kind. In the province of Sculpture comparatively few Greek works 
 have come down to us. Among these may be mentioned the more 
 recent metopae of Selinus in the museum at Palermo , and a few 
 relics preserved at Syracuse. Of Bronzes , in the casting of which 
 Perilaos of Agrigentum is said to have excelled , scarcely a single 
 specimen has survived. On the other hand a copious collection 
 of admirable ancient Coins has come down to us. Beautiful 
 Vases are likewise found in almost every part of the island. The 
 climax of the prosperity of the Sicilian Greeks was contempo- 
 raneous with that of their mother-country , and not in point of 
 architecture alone. About the year 550, Stesichorus of Himera per- 
 fected the Greek chorus by the addition of the epode to the strophe 
 and antistrophe. AZschylus resided long in Sicily , where he died 
 (456), and was interred at Gela. Pindar and Sappho also enjoyed 
 the hospitality of Sicily, and sang the praises of the victories 
 
History of Art , 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 245 
 
 of her sons at Olympia. Simonides visited Sicily, and composed 
 appropriate lines for the gift dedicated to the gods by Gelon after 
 the battle of Himera in 480. Phormis , an officer of Gelon at Syra- 
 cuse, who invented movable scenes, Epicharmus in 480, Sophron 
 in 460, and Xenarchus , the son of the last, distinguished them- 
 selves in the composition of comedies. Nothing is more charac- 
 ristic of the Sicilian enthusiasm for art than the story that the 
 Syracusans once set at liberty several Athenian prisoners, because 
 they knew how to recite the verses of Euripides with pathos. Even 
 during the period of decline the national poetical bias was still 
 pre-eminent , and gave birth to a new description of poetry, the 
 idyls, in which their inventor Theocritus of Syracuse was unsur- 
 passed , and which even in modern times have found numerous 
 admirers. 
 
 The Sicilians have never manifested much capacity for philo- 
 sophical research , although not entirely without taste for studies 
 of this nature. Pythagoras found followers here. Xenophanes of 
 Colophon, the founder of the Eleatic school , died in Syracuse at 
 an advanced age. A century later, Plato thrice visited Syracuse. 
 But the most illustrious Sicilian thinker was Empedocles of Acra- 
 gas, distinguished as a natural philosopher, and also as a practical 
 statesman, physician, architect, and orator. The names of a number 
 of eminent physicians are recorded : Pausanias , Acron (5th cent. 
 B.C.), Menecrates (4th cent. B.C.), and Celsus (but the last, born 
 at Centuripse, is not to be confounded with his famous namesake 
 who lived in the reign of Augustus). Distinguished historians 
 were : Antiochus , Philistus of Syracuse , Timaeus of Taormina, 
 Dicaearchus of Messana, and the learned Diodorus (Siculus) of 
 Agyrium, who wrote his celebrated Bibliotheca Historica in the 
 reign of Augustus. The most brilliant of the numerous orators 
 were Corax and Tisias , the teacher of Isocrates, Gorgias, and Lysias. 
 Gorgias , the celebrated sophist and orator, was a native of Leon- 
 tinoi, and Lysias was the son of a Syracusan. Among the mathe- 
 maticians and mechanicians Archimedes was the most distinguished . 
 Hicetas of Syracuse was one of the first who taught that the earth 
 moved and the sun remained stationary. 
 
 The Roman-Byzantine supremacy gave the death-blow to the 
 intellectual progress of the Sicilians. The soldier who slew Archi- 
 medes may be regarded as symbolical of this epoch. In accordance 
 with the Roman custon, however, numerous magnificent amphi- 
 theatres, theatres, and aqueducts were constructed during this 
 period. The rapacity of Verres and other governors despoiled the 
 island of countless treasures of art. The Christians used many of the 
 ancient temples and tombs for sacred purposes. A single Byzantine 
 church of small dimensions near Malvagna alone remains from this 
 period. A proof of the abject condition to which Sicily had sunk is 
 the circumstance that down to a late period of the Muslim supre- 
 
246 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 History of Art. 
 
 macy not a single author of eminence arose, although crowds of 
 monks and priests resided in the island. Theophanes Cerameus and 
 Petrus Siculus , the historian of the Manichaeans , alone deserve 
 mention. The wandering San Simeon of Syracuse died at Treves. 
 
 The Arabs were the first to infuse new life into the island. 
 They not only enriched the architectural art with new forms of 
 construction, as mentioned below, but they also inaugurated a 
 new era in the writing of history and geography, and under King 
 Ruggiero the first mediaeval geographer Edrisi completed his great 
 work (Nushat-ul-Mushtak). Among the Mohammedan Kasides 
 (poets) Ibn-Hamdis was the most distinguished. Art developed 
 itself to a still greater extent under the Norman rule, and the 
 princes and great men of that race have perpetuated their names 
 by the erection of numerous cathedrals. The importance they at- 
 tached to learning is proved by the fact that they were in the habit 
 of summoning the most learned men of the East (e. g. Petrus 
 Blesensis) to instruct their young princes. Whilst the Arabs de- 
 serve commendation for the introduction of the most valuable com- 
 mercial products (grain, cotton, sumach, etc.) which the island 
 possesses, the Norman princes established the manufacture of silk; 
 and a school for the arts of weaving and the composition of mosaic 
 was maintained in the royal palace. The brilliant reign of Fre- 
 derick //., his legislative merits, and his zealous promotion of 
 every art and science are well known. At his court at Palermo the 
 Italian language developed itself so as to become a written language, 
 and his counsellors, his sons , and even he himself made the first 
 attempts at Italian poetry. Of Frederick 77. , Manfred , Enzius , 
 Ciullo of Alcamo, Peter de Vineis , Guido delle Colonne , Jacopo da 
 Lentini , etc., poems are still preserved to us. But this golden age 
 was of brief duration. Amid the vicissitudes of subsequent cen- 
 turies all intellectual superiority became extinct. Even the 
 chroniclers manifest distinct traces of this degeneracy. Whilst 
 well-written and interesting chronicles of Sicily were composed in 
 the 13th century ( Hugo Falcandus , Bartholomew of Neocastro , 
 etc.), those of a later period are often unreadable. The revival of 
 classical studies, however, at length roused literature from its inert 
 condition. At the close of the 15th cent. Messina distinguished 
 itself by its promotion of Greek studies, and Coiistantine Lascaris 
 taught there.' The following century produced the learned and 
 indefatigable Thomas Fazello of Sciacca (d. 1570), the originator 
 of Sicilian history and topography. His work was completed by 
 the historian Maurolycus of Messina. 
 
 The enlightened absolutism of the Bourbons during the last 
 century tended to promote the progress of science in Sicily, 
 although the attention of scholars was principally directed to ar- 
 chaeological research relating to the history of the island. The 
 wealthier of the nobility formed collections of antiquities and wrote 
 
History of Art. 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 247 
 
 descriptions of them ( Biscari , Torremuzza , Astuto , Judica , Airoldi , 
 Gaetani , etc.). The clergy collected materials for the history of 
 Sicily , and others composed detailed monographs on the subject. 
 The ‘polyhistor’ Mongitore , a writer of little critical power, but of 
 great importance owing to the untiring diligence with which he 
 amassed MS. authorities, who had been preceded by the eminent 
 Antonino Amico , Rocco Pirro , Agostino Inveges , and Giovanni 
 Battista Caruso , died suddenly in 1743, at the advanced age of 80. 
 His death is said to have been occasioned by his perusal of the 
 Codex Diplomatics of Giovanni di Giovanni, in which the mythical 
 character of the traditions regarding the origin of Christianity in 
 Sicily was exposed. Di Giovanni , Francesco Testa , the brothers 
 Giovanni Evangelista an & Salvatore diBlasi , Vito Amico of Catania, 
 and Rosario Gregorio , the first writer of constitutional history in 
 Sicily, form a series of historians of the last century who would have 
 done credit to any nation. The art of poetry also revived, and found 
 its most talented representative in Giovanni Meli of Palermo (d. 
 1815). His anacreontic songs in the national dialect were universally 
 popular even before they appeared in a printed form. Among the 
 most distinguished scientific men of the present century may be 
 mentioned Domenico Scinci , the naturalist and historian of literat- 
 ure, the astronomer Piazzi (born, however, in the Yal Tellina in N. 
 Italy), the brothers Gemellaro , and the patriotic historian Giuseppe 
 Lafarina , besides a number of living savants of whom the island 
 can at present boast. 
 
 Music. In the history of music Sicily occupies a less prominent 
 position than in the other arts, but Bellini (b. at Catania 1802, d. 
 at Paris 1835) is justly admired for the beauty and sweetness of 
 his melodies. 
 
 With regard to ancient art in Sicily , and particularly the 
 sculptures of Selinunto, see p. xxviii etseq. We may now add a few 
 remarks upon the principal mediaeval and modern monuments of art. 
 
 Architecture. The mediaeval architecture of Sicily, and par- 
 ticularly that of Palermo, bears the impress of the political desti- 
 nies of the country in a very striking degree, showing the change 
 from the Byzantine to the Arabian domination, and from the latter 
 to the supremacy of the Normans. The style is accordingly of a very 
 mixed character, which strict connoisseurs will not fail to censure, 
 but it possesses great attractions for the less scientific lover of art. 
 The leading element is the Arabian. After the overthrow of the 
 Arabian supremacy the more refined culture of that race left its 
 mark on the island, and the Norman princes found it desirable to 
 avail themselves of its services in the administration of the country 
 and particularly in the province of art. The Arabian culture, 
 however, was in its turn considerably swayed by Byzantine in- 
 fluences, and it is therefore not surprising that these again should 
 
248 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 History of Art . 
 
 be reflected in the Sicilian architecture of the 12th century. The 
 ground-plan of many of the churches of Palermo is traceable to 
 Byzantine originals , viz. a square space enclosed by four pillars 
 and covered with a dome. It is uncertain whether this form was 
 introduced direct from Byzantium after the final triumph of Chris- 
 tian culture, or whether the Arabs had already employed it in the 
 construction of their numerous little oratories (of which Ibn Hau- 
 kal, an Arabian traveller of the 10th cent., says that there were 
 hundreds at Palermo alone), and handed it down to their Norman 
 successors. The latter alternative, however, is the more probable. 
 While the plan of many churches, such as Martorana , 8. Cataldo , 
 and 8. Antonio at Palermo is Byzantine, and that of others, like 
 Monreale , 8, Spirito and several abbey-churches at Palermo, and 
 the cathedral at Cefalh , is Romanesque, the universally prevalent 
 pointed arch is of Arabian origin, and quite distinct from the 
 Gothic form. The Arabs brought it from Egypt and used it in all 
 their buildings, and they also derived thence the custom of adorn- 
 ing their flat ceilings with pendentives, resembling stalactites, and 
 their friezes with inscriptions. While the ecclesiastical architecture 
 of Sicily was thus unable to resist the Arabian influence , that of 
 her palaces still possesses a distinctly Arabian character, cor- 
 responding with the Oriental complexion of the Norman court. Of 
 the numerous palaces which are said to have encircled Palermo in 
 the 12th cent., we now possess imperfect examples only in the 
 Zisa and the Cuba (and in the relics of the chateaux of Mimner- 
 mum at Altarello di Baida and Favara at Mare Dolce), so that it 
 requires a considerable effort of imagination to picture their vaunted 
 magnificence. Sicily possesses no Gothic churches of any note (S. 
 Francesco and S. Agostino at Palermo , and the cathedral at Mes- 
 sina ), but it is curious to observe how tenaciously her architects 
 clung to Gothic and other mediaeval forms down to a late period in 
 the Renaissance epoch. Of the later mediaeval secular architecture 
 we find many pleasing examples, especially at Palermo. 
 
 Sculpture. In the plastic art, in so far as it rises above a 
 merely decorative purpose, mediaeval Sicily attained little pro- 
 ficiency. The principal works in bronze (the gates at Monreale) 
 are not the work of native masters. Sculpturing in marble for de- 
 corative purposes, on the other hand, was extensively and success- 
 fully practised here at an early period. The capitals and several 
 shafts of columns in the monastery-court of Monreale are among 
 the finest works of the kind in Italy. The early Sicilian Wood 
 Carving , sometimes adorned with arabesques, which is still fre- 
 quently met with (as at Martorana ), is of remarkably fine exe- 
 cution. Another proof of the great skill of the Sicilian artificers is 
 afforded by the Porphyry Sarcophagi of the Norman princes and 
 German emperors in the cathedral at Palermo, and by the numerous 
 Marble Incrustations and Marble Mosaics of the 12th century. The 
 
History of Art. 
 
 SICILY. 
 
 249 
 
 mural covering of the Cappella Palatina and the Martorana , and 
 the mosaic decorations of the monastery court of Monreale will hear 
 favourable comparison with the finest works of the Roman sculptors 
 in marble and the members of the Cosmas school. Mosaic painting 
 was also highly developed in the 12th century. The mosaics in 
 the cathedral at Cefalii and in the Cappella Palatina , and those in 
 the Martorana and at Monreale , which have been preserved from 
 decay by repeated restorations, are not all of uniform value, hut 
 even those which show less vigour of conception display the bold- 
 ness of touch and finish of execution peculiar to able and ex- 
 perienced masters. As such artificers cannot possibly have sprung 
 up under Arabian rule , we must assume that the earlier of the 
 w orks to which we have referred were executed by Byzantine artists 
 invited to Sicily from foreign countries , and that these masters 
 then transmitted their art to native successors. At a later period, 
 after the extinction of the Norman princes, Sicilian art fell far be- 
 hind that of the mainland. Even during the Renaissance period 
 Sicily made no independent exertion, her cultivation of art being 
 but a slow and hesitating adoption of that of Rome and Naples. 
 It must, however, be borne in mind , that the existing sculptures 
 of Sicily are as yet by no means fully known. The most famous 
 name connected with Renaissance sculpture at Palermo is that of 
 Gagini . For three generations the Gagini’s were sculptors in 
 marble. Antonio Gagini , born in 1480, is said to have studied the 
 art under Michael Angelo at Rome, and to him and his sons are 
 referred all the finest works in marble of the 16th cent, at Palermo. 
 
 Painting. The history of this art in Sicily, although it has 
 been the object of zealous local research , has not yet been placed 
 on a satisfactory critical basis. Since the 14th cent., however, the 
 island has produced several painters of considerable eminence. 
 To the 14th cent, belongs Bartolomeo , a native of Camulio in the 
 dominions of Genoa, whose works, however, have been more influ- 
 enced by the example of the native mosaicists than by that of the 
 continental painters, and who possesses no very marked individu- 
 ality. In the 15th cent, flourished Antonio Crescenzio , whose frescoes 
 in the Spedale Grande enjoyed great celebrity ; but one of these 
 has unfortunately been destroyed, while of the other slight vestiges 
 only are now extant. This circumstance renders it almost impossible 
 to determine if both these frescoes were really from his brush, as 
 the Last Judgment, which was compared to that of Michael Angelo 
 in the Sistine Chapel at Rome, has alone been authenticated as his 
 work. The St. Cecilia in the cathedral at Palermo (p. 256) may be 
 assigned to him with almost absolute certainty. To Crescenzio may 
 probably also be ascribed the mural designs in a lateral chapel of 
 S. Maria di Gesu, which forcibly recall the Florentine compositions 
 of the 15th century. His pupil Tommaso di Vigilia and Pietro 
 Buzulone are painters of mediocre rank. The most distinguished 
 
250 Route 25. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 Sicilian painter of the 15th cent, was Antonello da Messina , hut 
 the only authentic works by him now in Sicily are those in the 
 university of his native town (p. 314). This master must not 
 be confounded with his less distinguished contemporary Antonello 
 da Saliba , several pictures by whom are still preserved at Palermo. 
 Of the artists of Palermo in the 16th cent, the most famous was 
 Vincenzio Ainemolo , who is also known as Yincenzio Romano, and 
 is said to have been a pupil of Polidoro Caldara. Most of the 
 churches of Palermo boast of works by this master, who would 
 therefore seem to have been very prolific; but as the works attri- 
 buted to him are of very unequal merit, many of them are probably 
 by a different hand, while others are partly by his pupils. His 
 labours extended down to the year 1542. His finest works are the 
 Ascension and the Descent from the Cross in the Museum, and 
 a rich composition in a side-chapel to the left in S. Domenico. To 
 the 17th cent, belongs Pietro Novelli (1603-47), surnamed ‘Mon- 
 realese’, a master of considerable originality, and a follower of the 
 Neapolitan school, to which he owes his vigorous colouring and his 
 strongly individualised heads. Besides his works at Palermo, there 
 is an interesting work by this master in the staircase at Monreale 
 (St. Benedict and his successors). Several of his monkish figures 
 are among the finest works produced by the Italian naturalists. In 
 the 18th cent. Palermo was an active follower of the degraded 
 styles of the period , the proofs of which are too numerous to re- 
 quire special enumeration. 
 
 25. Palermo. 
 
 Arrival. Travellers are conveyed to the Dogana (PI. H, 7 ; 1 fr. for 
 each pers.) , where luggage is slightly examined. Thence to the town 
 about 1 M. ; cab with luggage D/2 fr. — Omnibuses from several of the 
 hotels await the arrival of the steamboats. 
 
 Hotels. (If a stay of any length is made, charges had better be asked 
 beforehand.) * Trinacria (PI. a ; C, 6), with a fme view of the Marina, en- 
 tered from the Strada Butera, proprietor M. Ragusa; visitors chiefly Eng- 
 lish, American, and German; R. facing the Marina on the 1st, 2nd, or 
 3rd floor 5, 4th 4, 5th 272 fr. ; sitting-room 6-10 fr. ; B. P/2, dejeuner 3-372, 
 D. 572, served* in the traveller's apartment 672 fr. ; A. 1, L. 1 fr. ; Hotel des 
 Palmes (PI. b ; F, 4), a dependance of the Trinacria, in the Via Stabile, with 
 beautiful garden , fine view, and numerous sunny rooms and terraces, 
 sheltered from the wind and suitable for invalids ; charges somewhat higher 
 than at the Trinacria. — ' Hotel de France (PI. c; C, 5), by the Giardino 
 Garibaldi, Piazza Marina, less frequented by foreign travellers ; charges a 
 shade lower than at the Trinacria, D. 5, pens. 10 fr. — Outside the Porta 
 Macqueda, Piazza Oliva 72, is the "Hotel Oliva (PI. f, F 3 ; kept by the land- 
 lord of the Trinacria), pension 8-10 fr., recommended for moderate require- 
 ments only. — Of the second class: Italia (PI. d; C, 5), Piazza Marina 60, 
 near the Giardino Garibaldi, R. 2-272 fr., well spoken of; *Albergo Cen- 
 trale (PI. e; D, 3), with trattoria, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 355, in the centre 
 of the town, close to the Quattro Canti, R. 2-3, coffee 1 fr., dej. D/2-2, 
 D. 372-4, pension 6-10 fr. ; Rebecciiino (PI. h ; C, 2), Via Vitt. Eman., op- 
 posite the cathedral; Albergo al Pizzuto (PI. g; D, 4) , Via Bandiera 30, 
 near the Piazza Domenica. — Pensions: *Lehn, Via Lincoln 83, near the 
 Botanical Garden (10-12 fr.); "Pension Suisse, Via S. Sebastiano. 
 
Carriages. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 25. Route. 251 
 
 Trattorie and Cafes. * Villa di Roma , Via Vitt. Emanuele 313, right side, 
 before the Quattro Canti is reached ; Rebecchino , see above •, Stella Ameri- 
 cana , Via Vitt. Emanuele 178; Lombarda , outside the Porta Nuova. *Caf6 
 Oreto , at the corner of the Piazza Marina and the Corso ; *Caf4 Lincoln , 
 opposite; Progresso , Via Macqueda. Good dejeuner at the cafes. — Best 
 ices at the cafe of the Teatro Bellini , Piazza della Martorana. — Con- 
 fectioner (‘Pasticceria 1 ) , Gull , Via Vitt. Em. 117; Caflisch , Via Vitt. Ema- 
 nuele 164. — Birreria , in the court of the Albergo Centrale (see above). 
 
 The Casino Nuovo , or new club, in the Palazzo Geraci in the Via Vitt. 
 Emanuele (p. 256), contains handsome apartments, and is worth visiting ; 
 strangers may easily obtain an introduction for a fortnight ; ticket for a 
 longer period 10 fr. per month. Strangers may also be introduced to the 
 Circolo Filologico , in the Pal. Natoli, near S. Salvatore, where Italian and 
 foreign newspapers and periodicals may be consulted. 
 
 Carriages. Tariff for 1-4 persons : — One-h. Two-h. 
 
 Drive within the town-walls 0. 60 0. 80 
 
 Drive within the suburbs, including the harbour . . 1. — 1. 50 
 
 Small articles free. Each box 20 c. 
 
 First hour 1. 80 2. 20 
 
 Each additional hour 1. 60 2. — 
 
 At night these charges are raised by one-half. Driving in the town is 
 prohibited on Good Friday. Longer drives according to bargain. 
 
 Tramways (fares, 1st cl. 25, 2nd cl. 20 c.). Three lines start from the 
 Piazza Marina (pi. C, 5), diverging from each other at the Porta S. Giorgio 
 (PI. E, 5): 1. To Acqua Santa , at the foot of Monte Pellegrino (PI. H, 5, 
 6,7; J, 7) ; 2. To Sampolo , at the entrance to the Favorita (PL II, J, 5); 
 3. To Aoce, at the end of the Corso Olivuzza (PI. E, 5-2 ; F, 1). — A fourth 
 line leads from the Piazza Bologni (PI. C, 3) through the Via Vitt. Ema- 
 nuele, and on to La Rocca , at the foot of the hill of Monreale (comp. PI. D, 
 3-1). — Other cross-lines are : 5. From the Harbour to Porta Carini (PI. G, 
 5, 4; F, 4, 3; E, 3, 2). 6. From the end of the Corso Olivuzza to the Corso 
 Calatafimi (PI. E, D, 2, 1). 
 
 Baths. * Via Quattro Aprile 7, near the Piazza Marina ; cold bath 1 fr., 
 warm bath 1 fr. 25 c., Russian bath for 1-2 pers. 5 fr. — Sea Baths in 
 the Stradone del Borgo (PI. F, 5), and near Acqua Santa (PI. I, 7). Swimmers 
 will probably prefer to bathe early in the morning from a boat, which 
 they may hire O/2 fr.) at the Sanita, outside the Porta Felice. 
 
 Post Office (PI. 88) on the E. side of Piazza Bologni (PI. C, 3). — 
 The Diligences to the interior start hence. 
 
 Telegraph Office, Via Macqueda 226, not far from the Quattro Canti 
 (on the left in going thence to the Porta Macqueda). 
 
 Railway Station outside the Porta S. Antonino (PI. A, 4). 
 
 Steamboats. Societd Florio (office, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 96, at the 
 corner of the Piazza Marina) to Naples daily (see p. 222), going on once 
 weekly to Genoa and Marseilles and once weekly to Leghorn and Genoa; 
 to Messina and the Levant once weekly ; to Messina and the Adriatic 
 Sea once weekly. Algo to the Sicilian towns : once weekly eastwards to 
 Cefalu, Capo d'Orlando, Milazzo, and Messina, see p. 273 ; once weekly to 
 the W. to Trapani , Girgenti, and Syracuse, see p. 304 ; once weekly to 
 Messina and Malta ; twice monthly to Ustica ; once weekly to Trapani, 
 Favignana, Marsala, Pantelleria, and Tunis, see R. 45. — Societd Rubattino 
 (office, adjacent to that of the Florio Co.): once a fortnight to Cagliari, 
 see R. 44. — Messageries Maritimes (office in the Piazza Marina) ; once a 
 fortnight to Marseilles. 
 
 Booksellers. Fratelli Pedone Lauriel, Via Vitt. Emanuele 360. — Second- 
 hand books: Giovanni Fiorenza , Via Vitt. Em. 365; both near the Quattro 
 Canti, in the direction of the Piazza Vittoria; also at Via Macqueda 303. 
 
 Photographs : Rob. Rive and Tagliarini , adjoining each other in the 
 Via Vitt. Em., near the Piazza S. Spirito (PI. C, 6); Gius. Incorpora , 
 Via Bosco 10 and Pal. Costantino, Quattro Canti. 
 
 Watchmaker : Zollikofer , Via Vitt. Em. 142. 
 
 Bankers. Ingham & Whitaker , Via Lampedusa; Morrison & Co ., Piazza 
 Marina; Kayser & Kressner , Via Teatro S. Cecilia 44; Hirzel , Via dell' 
 
252 Route 25. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 Consuls . 
 
 Ucciardone 6*, Wedekind , Pal. Cattolica, Via Cintorinai; Bonner <k Co. — 
 Money Changers : Altlieimer , Via Vitt. Em. 121, and others in the same street. 
 
 Climate and Health. Palermo is often recommended as a winter- 
 residence to persons with delicate chests or nervous complaints. The air 
 is mild, humid, and of very equable temperature, the temperature averaging 
 52° Falir. in January. Almost the only serious drawback to the climate is 
 formed by the unpleasant winds, which, however, vary in frequency and 
 intensity in different years. Precautions should be taken against illnesses of 
 a gastric nature by proper attention to clothing and diet. The drinking- 
 water of Palermo, unlike that of Naples, is of excellent quality ; when there 
 is any tendency to diarrhoea, it should be drunk mixed with red wine. 
 Diseases of the eye are very common , but the blinding glare of the sun 
 may be neutralised by the use of umbrellas and spectacles of coloured glass. 
 Furnished apartments are unfortunately scarce, and most of the patients 
 live in the hotels and pensions mentioned at p. 250. — The beautiful 
 public and private Gardens in Palermo and its environs add greatly to its 
 chain as a residence. Admission to the finest of the latter is generally 
 obtainable by the payment of a small fee (comp. p. 269). 
 
 Physicians. Dr. Berlin , Via S. Sebastiano 30; Dr. Ohlsen. — Chemists. 
 English, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 27 ; Caputo , Via Vitt. Em. 107, 109. 
 
 Theatres. Teatro Bellini (PI. 95; C, 4), Piazza della Martorana; S. 
 Cecilia (PI. 96; C, 4), in the same street; Circo , behind S. Domenico; 
 Garibaldi , Via Castrofilippo (performances in the Sicilian dialect) ; Poli- 
 teama , Piazza Ruggiero Settimo (PI. F, 4 $ p. 264), also a circus. 
 
 Consuls. American : Mr. B. Sampson , Via Butera. — British : Mr. Robert 
 Rose , vice-consul, Via Lincoln al Foro Italico 3 (10-3). — There are also 
 German, French, Austrian, Portuguese, Russian, Swiss, Spanish, Turkish, 
 Belgian, and Dutch consuls resident here. 
 
 English Church, Via Stabile. Presbyterian Service performed occasion- 
 ally in the Waldensian Church, Pal. Cuto, Via Macqueda 32. 
 
 Attractions. During a stay of three days at Palermo the traveller 
 should visit : — 1st Day. The Museum (p. 260), La Martorana (p. 257), the 
 Cathedral (p. 255), the Royal Palace (p. 253), La Flora (p. 265), and the 
 Marina (p. 264). 2nd Day. Monreale, La Zisa (p. 268), La Favorita (p 270). 
 3rd Day. Monte Pellegrino (p. 268) in the forenoon; in the afternoon the 
 Bagheria (p. 270), or S. Maria di Gesii (p. 271). 
 
 The Festival of St. Rosalia (p. 269), ll-15th July, accompanied with 
 horse-races, regattas, illuminations, etc., attracts a great concourse of 
 country-people to Palermo several days before the beginning of the gaieties. 
 The Municipio usually contributes 30-40,000 fr., towards the expenses , in 
 order that this famous feast may be celebrated with becoming splendour. 
 The processsion to the chapel of the saint takes place in September. 
 
 Palermo, the capital of Sicily, with 228,500 inh., including the 
 surrounding villages , is the military, judicial, and ecclesiastical 
 headquarters of the island, and possesses one of the seven principal 
 Italian universities. It lies in 38°, 6', 44 " N. latitude, on the W. 
 side of the Bay of Palermo which opens towards the E., and is 
 enclosed by the fertile plain of the Conca d ’ Oro, beyond which 
 rises an amphitheatre of imposing mountains. On the N. the city 
 is sheltered by the finely shaped Monte Pellegrino. Palermo is 
 justly entitled to the epithet ‘la felice’, on account of its magnificent 
 situation and delightful climate. 
 
 The town is on the whole well built, although the houses are 
 generally of unimposing exterior. It forms an oblong quadrangle, 
 the E. end of which adjoins the sea. Two main streets divide it 
 into four quarters. South-westwards, from the Porta Felice on the 
 sea as far as the Porta Nuova by the royal palace, extends the Via 
 
Palazzo Reale. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 25. Route. 253 
 
 Vittorio Emanuele or Toledo, popularly known as the Cassaro, from 
 the name it bore originally • this street, which was constructed in 
 the 16th cent., is intersected at right angles by the Strada Nuova 
 or Via Macqueda , constructed in 1600. The S. gate is the Porta 
 S. Antonino , the N. the Porta Macqueda. 
 
 The commerce of the city, which is to a great extent in the 
 hands of foreigners, is little less considerable than that of Messina. 
 Sumach, sulphur, oranges, and lemons are largely exported. 
 
 ^jThe narrow and shallow harbour, called La Cala , on the N. W. side 
 of which lie the ruins of Fort Castellamare, extended in ancient and mediseval 
 times farther into the city, including the present Piazza Marina and reach- 
 ing on the N. as far as the Via Argenteria, whence the Greek name of the 
 city ‘Panormos 1 (‘entirely harbour 1 ) and its reputation as a seaport, though 
 it is now inaccessible to large vessels. The ancient town stretching 
 down to S. Antonio (PI. 5 ; D, 4), was bounded by two brooks which 
 emptied themselves into the harbour, the course of which may still be 
 traced in the Via di Porta di Castro on the S. and the depression of the 
 Papireto, the Piazza S. Onofrio, and the Piazza Nuova on the N. To the 
 
 N. and S. of the old town lay the suburbs. Panormus was originally a 
 Phoenician settlement, called Machanath (?), and, until the conquest of Si- 
 cily by the Romans, was one of the most important strongholds of the 
 Carthaginians. It afterwards belonged to the Romans and was colonised 
 by Augustus. On the fall of the W. empire the city fell under the sway 
 of the E. emperors ; in 831 the Arabs , and in 1072 the Normans obtained 
 possession of it, and here their emirs and kings resided. After 1266 the 
 French took possession of Palermo, but were expelled in 1280 (Sicilian 
 Vespers). The monarchs ol the house of Arragon seldom resided here. The 
 Chiaramonte, powerful feudal barons, who erected a spacious palace for 
 themselves at Palermo, were long the real rulers of the place. Subsequently 
 the viceroys of Sicily, notwithstanding the loud remonstrances of Messina, 
 selected this city as their residence. In 1799 the Bourbon Ferdinand IV., 
 on his expulsion from Naples , took up his quarters in the royal palace. 
 After 1815 the viceroys had to contend against the rebellions of 1820, 
 1837, and 1848 ; and at length in 1860 the subversion of the existing govern- 
 ment was effected. In Sept. 1866 an insurrection, half Bourbon and half 
 republican , broke out here , and to this day the environs are infested 
 by brigands. From 1827 to 1848 not a single new house was erected in 
 Palermo, but the town has extended considerably since 1860, especially 
 towards the N. Large sums of money, averaging 1,000,000 fr. yearly, have 
 been expended since that date in laying out avenues, in paving the streets, 
 and in other works conducing to the beauty of the town and the public 
 health. 
 
 Palermo possesses very few ancient architectural remains , but this 
 want is amply compensated for by its interesting mediaeval monuments 
 (comp. pp. 247-48) and the museum. The general architectural appearance 
 of the town was impressed upon it mainly during the 16th and 17th 
 centuries, when most of the palaces and churches in the two principal 
 streets were erected. 
 
 On the S.W. side of the town, at the end of the Yia Vit- 
 torio Emanuele, lies the spacious Piazza della Vittoria (PI. 
 
 O, 2), where the — 
 
 * Palazzo Reale (PI. 87) rises on a slight eminence which 
 has always been the site of the castle of the city. The building 
 is of Saracenic origin. Additions were made by Robert Guiscard, 
 King Roger, the two Williams, Frederick II., and Manfred; and 
 it afterwards underwent many alterations, notwithstanding which 
 it still retains traces of its origin as a defensive structure. 
 
254 Route 25. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 Cappella Palatina. 
 
 The gate farthest to the left leads into the Palace Court, 
 which is enclosed by arcades. Ascending a staircase on the left, 
 and turning to the right on the first floor, we enter the — 
 
 **Cappella Palatina, the vestibule of which, embellished 
 with modern mosaics, is borne by seven columns, six of these 
 being of Egyptian granite. (The chapel is best visited between 
 8 and 11 a.m., fee */2 f r 0 This famous structure, a perfect gem of 
 mediaeval architecture, was built before the year 1182 by King Ro- 
 ger II. in the Norman style and dedicated to St. Peter. It con- 
 sists of a nave with aisles, and is 36 yds. long, including the apse, 
 and 14 yds. in width. The Arabian pointed arches are borne 
 by ten columns of granite and cipollino, 16 ft. in height. The 
 choir is approached by five steps, and over the centre of the cross 
 rises a dome 57 ft. in height. The walls are entirely covered 
 with mosaics on a golden ground, executed in the reign of Wil- 
 liam I., and radiant with oriental splendour. Amid the wondrous 
 magic of the general effect the comparatively uninteresting details 
 will attract less notice. 
 
 The "Mosaics represent subjects from the Old Testament , and the 
 lives of Christ , St. Peter , and St. Paul. In the centre of the apse Christ 
 is represented in the style which recurs in all Norman mosaics , the finest 
 specimen of which is at Cefalu. The dome is perforated by eight nar- 
 row windows, and bears Greek and Latin inscriptions. The characters on 
 the ceiling of the nave are Cufic or ancient Arabic (comp. p. 248). The 
 mosaic pavement , an ambo or reading-desk on the right , and a marble 
 candelabrum, 1472 ft. in height , also deserve inspection. The Gothic 
 choir-stalls are modern. 
 
 Leaving the chapel, we ascend the principal staircase on the W. 
 side of the court to the arcades of the second floor, and enter 
 the passage to the left, where the first door on the right bears 
 the inscription, ‘ R . Osservatorio\ This is the entrance to the 
 observatory , which is fitted up in the tower of S. Ninfa (the 
 former Torre Pisano ) , the oldest part of the edifice (open to the 
 public on Thursdays, 10-3; to travellers daily). In 1801 Piazzi 
 here discovered Ceres, the first of the asteroids. 
 
 We ascend two flights of steps and enter by a door, where we find 
 the custodian C/ 2 -l fr.). The flat roof commands a superb "Panorama. 
 At our feet lies the Piazza Vittoria, above the left angle of which rises 
 S. Rosalia $ in front of the latter is the Pal. Arcivescovile ; on the right is 
 the beginning of the Corso. To the left beyond it lies the harbour, com- 
 manded on the left by the Monte Pellegrino ; to the left in the background 
 rise the mountains of the Capo Gallo ; below them, in the foreground, is 
 the Porta Nuova^ to the left, farther distant, La Zisa, a cubical yellow 
 building with numerous windows $ farther to the left in the background 
 riss the pointed Monte Cuccio, prolonged on the left by the hill of Mon- 
 reale. Farther to the left, at our feet, extends the Giardino Reale, above 
 which is the Piazza dell 1 Indipendenza with the obelisks. In the foreground, 
 S.E., is the tower of the red church of S. Giovanni degli Eremiti ; beyond 
 it the cypress-grove of the Campo Santo ; in the distance , at the base of 
 the lofty M. Griffone, lies S. Maria di Gesu; more to the left, M. Catalfano, 
 abutting on the sea ; on the promontory, to the right of the latter, is the 
 Bagheria. 
 
 The door at the end of the above-mentioned passage leads to 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 25. Route. 255 
 
 the apartments of the palace, the most noticeable of which are 
 the so-called Stanza di Ruggiero , with walls of mosaic , and a 
 room containing portraits of the viceroys (fee 1 fr.). 
 
 Connected with the Palazzo Reale are the fortified city-gates. 
 To the right (N.) is the Porta Nuova , through which the Mon- 
 reale road (p. 265) leads past the ((^ M.) Cuba. (The first side- 
 street to the right, outside the gate, leads to the Zisa, 2 / 3 M. ; 
 see p. 268.) To the left is the Porta di Castro , the road through 
 which leads to Parco (p. 285). Outside these gates lies the Piazza 
 delV Indipendenza , embellished with an obelisk. 
 
 In the corner of the Piazza della Yittoria, nearly opposite the 
 entrance to the palace, rises a Monument to Philip V. (PI. C, 2), 
 erected in 1856 on the site of one destroyed in 1848. 
 
 A few hundred paces from this point, not far from the Porta 
 di Castro, is the church of S. Giovanni degli Eremiti (PI. 32; 
 generally closed; entrance Yia de’ Benedittini 36, fee ife-l fr.), 
 one of the earliest existing Norman churches, and still presenting 
 an almost entirely Oriental aspect. It is constructed in the form 
 of a so-called Egyptian cross (T) , with three apses , a large 
 dome, and four smaller ones, and is at present undergoing resto- 
 ration. Adjoining the church, the bell of which was the first to 
 ring the alarm on the occasion of the Sicilian Yespers, are small, 
 but interesting Cloisters, in a dilapidated condition. 
 
 On the E. side of the Piazza della Yittoria, opposite the palace, 
 stands the Spedale Grande (PI. 93 ; C, 2), erected within a year by 
 Count Matteo Selafani in 1330, purchased by the city in 1440 for 
 150 oncie (about 75 1. sterl.), and now a barrack. Remains of the 
 old external decoration are still visible on the E. and S. walls. 
 The arcades of the second court are decorated on the right with 
 a large fresco of the 15th cent, ascribed to Antonio Crescenzio , the 
 ‘Triumph of Death’, in a style resembling the Florentine (p. 249). 
 Keys at the Municipio. 
 
 In 1869 the remains of an ancient Roman house were dis- 
 covered in the N. corner of the piazza, but were afterwards filled 
 up again. Its mosaic pavement has been removed to the museum. 
 
 On the opposite side is the Archiepiscopal Palace (PI. 84 ; D, 2), 
 with its facade adorned with statues towards the Piazza del Duomo, 
 dating in its present form from the 16th century. Beautiful Gothic 
 window. The tower, connected with the cathedral by a graceful 
 arch, was originally erected in the 12th century, but in its present 
 form is modern. 
 
 The spacious Piazza del Duomo (PI. D, 2) is enclosed by a 
 marble balustrade, erected in 1753 and adorned with sixteen large 
 statues of saints. In the centre rises a half-figure of S. Rosalia, 
 on a triangular pedestal, placed here in 1744. 
 
 The ^Cathedral, or church of S. Rosalia (PI. 15; generally 
 closed 12-4 o’clock), in which restorations to its disadvantage have 
 
256 Route 25. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 Cathedral, 
 
 been undertaken in each century since its foundation, was erected 
 in 1169-85 by the English Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualterio 
 Offamilio) on the site of a more ancient church which had been 
 converted into a mosque, and subsequently been reconverted into 
 a Christian place of worship. The crypt, part of the S. side, 
 and the E. end are the only remaining portions of the original 
 structure. The S. portal, added in 1450, is an approximation to 
 the northern Gothic style. The W. Facade, with the principal por- 
 tal and the two towers, was erected in 1300-59. In 1781-1801 the 
 church was disfigured by the addition of a dome, constructed by 
 Fernando Fuga, the Neapolitan, in spite of the remonstrances of 
 the Sicilian architects. The restoration of the interior was un- 
 dertaken by the same architect, who has disguised its original 
 character and given it an entirely modem appearance. 
 
 The Interior is open to visitors before 12 noon, and after 4 p.m. — The 
 S. Aisle (left of the S. Portal) contains the Tombs of the Kings. Here, in 
 admirably executed sarcophagi of porphyry, surmounted by canopies, 
 repose : King Roger (d. 1154) $ his daughter Constance, wife of Henry VI. 
 (d. 1198) ; his son-in-law Henry VI. (d. 1197), and his illustrious grandson 
 Frederick II. (d. 1250). The sarcophagus of the last-named (the first on 
 the left) , borne by four lions , is the finest. In a niche to the right of 
 the tomb of Henry VI. is the antique marble sarcophagus of Constance 
 of Arragon, queen of Frederick II. •, another niche, to the left of Frederick 
 II., contains the sarcophagus of William, son of Frederick III. of Arragon. 
 On the wall to the right of the mortuary chapel are recorded the privileges 
 granted to the city by Frederick, inlaid in marble. In 1781 the sarcophagi 
 were transferred hither from a chapel contiguous to the choir, and opened. 
 The remains of Henry VI. and Constance were greatly decomposed, whilst 
 those of Frederick II. were in good preservation. With the latter the 
 remains of two other bodies were found, one unknown, the other probably 
 that of Peter II. of Arragon. The corpse of the great emperor was 
 enveloped in sumptuous robes with inscriptions in Arabic ; beside him lay 
 the crown and imperial apple, and his sword. (These relics are preserved 
 in the sacristy , at the end of the aisle, and are most conveniently seen 
 between 9 and 10 a.m. Visitors ascend the steps and apply to one of the 
 chorister boys $ fee 1 / 2 -I fr. on leaving.) 
 
 The marble sculptures of the church are chiefly by Antonio Oagini , the 
 finest of which are those on the pilasters of the Chapel of St. Rosalia , to 
 the right of the high-altar. Here the saint reposes in a sarcophagus of silver, 
 1300 lbs. in weight, exhibited only on 11th Jan., 15th July, and 4th Sept. 
 The choir, which possesses fine old carved stalls, is separated from the 
 church by a marble screen. The statues in the niches, Christ and the 
 Apostles, are by Oagini. — The Cappella di S. Ignazio (4th to the right) 
 contains an altar-piece by Pietro Novelli , representing the Virgin and Child 
 adored by SS. Ignatius Loyola and Francis Xavier, and also a St. Cecilia 
 listening to the music of the angels by Ant. Crescenzio (about 1476). 
 
 The Crypt beneath the choir, containing the remains of the arch- 
 bishops in ancient and early Christian sarcophagi, should also be visited. 
 Here , among others , repose Gualterio Offamilio , and the archbishops 
 Frederick and Peter of Antioch, both of Hohenstaufen extraction. 
 
 Proceeding hence by the Via Vittorio Emanuele to the N.E., 
 towards the sea, we pass on the left a building which was formerly 
 the Collegio Nuovo (PI. 79; D, 3) of the Jesuits, but now contains 
 the National Library (open daily) and the Lyceum. We next reach 
 on the left the Palazzo Geraci (with the Casino Nuovo, p. 254) and 
 the Pal. Riso (formerly Belmonte ), opposite the second of which 
 
Martorana. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 25. Route. 257 
 
 is tlie small Piazza Bologni (PI. C, 3), adorned with a statue of 
 Charles Y. by Livolsi da Tusa(1630). To theW. stands the Palazzo 
 Villafranca , to the E. the Post Office (PI. 88). 
 
 Farther on we come to the Quattro Canti (PI. C, D, 3, 4), or 
 Piazza Vigliena , a small octagonal piazza, situated at the inter- 
 section of the Via Vittorio Emanuele and the Via Macqueda, in the 
 very heart of the city. It was constructed by the viceroy Marquis 
 de Villena in 1609. The four facades looking towards the piazza 
 are embellished with columns and statues. — In the S. angle of the 
 piazza rises the richly decorated church of 8. Giuseppe de 1 Teatini 
 (PI. 35; C, 3). 
 
 Passing this church , we turn to the right into the Via Mac- 
 queda, and reach one of the most interesting quarters of the town. 
 
 On the left side of this street is the Piazza Pretoria (PI. C, 4), 
 with a large Fountain executed in the 16th cent, by the Floren- 
 tine sculptors Camilliani and Vagherino, and originally destined for 
 a villa of the viceroy Garcia di Toledo. The Palazzo del Municipio 
 (PL 86) here contains on the ground-floor Roman inscriptions and 
 monuments, and in one of the saloons on the first floor an antique 
 *Statue of the youthful Dionysus, erroneously called Antinous. 
 Here also is the former Palazzo Serradifalco. 
 
 Farther on, in a small piazza on the left side of the Via Mac- 
 queda , is the former Post-Office (see above) , within the precincts 
 of which is situated the deserted church of 8. Cataldo , an interest- 
 ing specimen of Sicilian-Norman architecture , erected either by 
 Giorgio Majone of Bari (assassinated in 1160), the powerful ad- 
 miral and chancellor in the reign of William I., or before 1161 by 
 Count Sylvester, grandson of Duke Roger I. 
 
 A flight of steps in the same piazza ascends to the disused 
 church of *La Martorana (PL 54; shown daily, 8-4 o’clock; cus- 
 todian’s bell in the corner, at the back of the church ; adm. Y 2 -l fr.). 
 I tr was erected by Georgios Antiochenos, grand-admiral of Roger I. 
 and Roger II., in honour of the Virgin , during the first half of the 
 12th cent., and from him derived its original name of S. Maria del 
 Ammiraglio. 
 
 The church was originally quadrangular, with three apses, and a dome 
 borne by four columns in the Byzantine style, and was adorned inside and 
 out with mosaics. In 1590 the nuns of the convent of Martorana (founded 
 in 1193, and in 1433 presented with the church, whence the present name) 
 caused the edifice to be extended towards the W. In 1685 the central 
 apse was demolished and replaced by a square chapel, and in 1726 the 
 work of destruction was carried still farther by the removal of the mosaics 
 from the walls. An attempt, however, is now being made to restore the 
 church in accordance with the ancient plan, the mosaics being entrusted 
 to the brothers Bonanni. Some of the eight Corinthian columns bear Arabic 
 inscriptions. The mosaic to the left of the entrance represents the ad- 
 miral Georgios Antiochenos at the feet of the Virgin (the lower part 
 mutilated). That on the right represents King Roger crowned by Christ. 
 The original mosaics in the apses on the right and left, and those in the 
 dome, are furnished with Greek inscriptions. — The carved door near the 
 custodian’s bell is also of the Norman- Arabian period. — The two upper 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 17 
 
258 Route 25. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 University. 
 
 stories of the four-storied campanile date from the 14th century. In 1726 
 the dome was removed in consequence of the damage done by an earth- 
 quake. 
 
 To the right in the Yia Macqueda is situated the University 
 (Pl. 99), with important natural history collections, among which 
 the fishes in the zoological, the fossil mammalia in the palaeonto- 
 logical, and the line specimens of Sicilian sulphur and articles 
 found in caves in the geological department are the most interest- 
 ing. (The scientific traveller may also probably gain admittance 
 to the Marchese Monterosato’s admirable collection of Conchylia, 
 Via Polacchi 27.) — In the street adjacent to the university, on 
 the right, we reach the Casa Professa (PI. 13; C, 3), with the 
 Jesuits ’ Church , completed in 1683, and overladen with ornament. 
 Adjoining it is the Bihlioteca Comunale (PI. 77), entered by a Doric 
 vestibule , and containing a most valuable collection of books and 
 MSS. relative to Sicilian history. On the first floor is the ‘Histo- 
 rical Hall’, open daily from 9 to 4. 
 
 About M. from the neighbouring Porta S. Antonino (PI. B, 
 3, 4) is situated the railway-station, in the first side-street to the 
 left of the Via Oreto (PI. A, 4). 
 
 The Via Lincoln, which runs from the Porta S. Antonino to- 
 wards the sea, passes the Porta Garibaldi (PI. B, 4), by which Ga- 
 ribaldi entered the city on 27th May, 1860 , and terminates near 
 the Flora on the Marina (see p. 264). — In the Via Garibaldi, 
 on the right side when approached from the gate of that name, 
 stands the well-preserved Palazzo Aiutamicristo , built in 1490 by 
 Matteo Carnevale, and occupied during the following century by 
 Charles V., Muley Hassan of Tunis, Don John of Austria, and 
 other historical celebrities. — Not far from the Porta Garibaldi is 
 the disused Teutonic Lodge , the sadly disfigured church of which 
 {La Magione; PI. 42) was founded in the 12th cent, by the chan- 
 cellor Matteo Ajello of Salerno , and presented to the Order by 
 Frederick II. The palace of Principe Fitalia Settimo , near S. Anna 
 (PI. 3; C, 4), contains a valuable collection of books and MSS. 
 relating to Sicily, and other objects of interest. 
 
 If we follow the Via Vittorio Emanuele , and cross the 
 Quattro Canti in the direction of the sea, we reach after 2 min. 
 a small piazza on the left, whence we proceed through a gate in- 
 scribed ‘Domus Dei Porta Coeli’ into a passage, which leads to the 
 church of S. Antonio (PI. 5; D, 4), a Byzantine structure of the 
 early part of the 13th century. Down to the 16th cent, the Sea- 
 gate of the old town of Palermo stood here. 
 
 Returning to the Via Vitt. Emanuele, we soon reach the Via 
 Cintorinai, a cross-street on the right , leading to S. Francesco 
 d’Assisi (PI. 25), in the piazza of that name. This church is a 
 Norman structure, of which the facade now alone remains (recently 
 restored). It contains remains of frescoes by Pietro Novelli, of 
 
S. Domenico. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 25. Route. 259 
 
 which that over the entrance is the best preserved. Farther on, 
 to the right, is the old Palazzo Cattolica , with a fine court. 
 
 About 3 min. walk farther the Via Vitt. Emanuele emerges on 
 the Piazza Marina (PI. C, 5), one of the finest in Palermo, adorned 
 with fountains and the pleasure-grounds of the *Giardino Gari- 
 baldi with their beautiful palms. To the left is the new gov- 
 ernment Finance Office. In the S.E. corner of the piazza is situat- 
 ed the historically interesting Palazzo dei Tribunali (PI. 98), 
 erected by Manfred Chiaramonte in 1307. Queen Bianca resided 
 here in 1410, and at a later period, down to 1782, victims of 
 the Inquisition were confined here. The building is now occu- 
 pied by the courts of justice and the Dogana. The well-preserv- 
 ed court is entered through the latter. 
 
 In the neighbouring Via Alloro are the monastery della Gan - 
 cia (PI. 28), the monks of which have taken an active part in 
 every revolution , including that of 1860 , and the Palazzo Pa- 
 tella , with an interesting facade of 1495, by the architect of the 
 Pal. Aiutamicristo (p. 259). 
 
 In the Via Yitt. Emanuele, farther on, at the beginning of the 
 side-street on the left leading to the small harbour of La Cala , 
 which has recently been deepened and sheltered from the E. wind 
 by a pier, is the small church of S. Maria della Catena (PI. 47; D, 5), 
 erected in 1400 on the site of an earlier edifice. The facade, in 
 which the ancient style predominates, exhibits the unusually 
 depressed form of arch frequently seen in S. Italy towards the 
 close of the Gothic period. The Loggia overlooks the harbour 
 of La Cala , on the opposite side of which we observe the fort 
 of Castellamare (almost entirely destroyed in 1860). — Contin- 
 uing to follow the Via Yitt. Emanuele, we reach the Piazza di 
 S. Spirito (PI. C, 6), with the Conservatorio (Foundling Hospital, 
 etc.) of that name, founded in 1608. Nearly opposite is the house 
 (No. 12), marked by an inscription, in which Goethe lodged in 
 1787. We then pass through the Porta Felice to the^Marina (see 
 p. 264). 
 
 The finest of the other churches is S. Domenico (PI. 22; 
 D , 4), in the piazza of that name, erected in 1640, and’capable of 
 accommodating 12,000 persons. It contains several good pictures 
 by Pietro Novelli and Yincenzo Ainemolo, and the tombs and 
 monuments of Meli, Piazza, Novelli, Ruggiero Settimo , and nu- 
 merous other eminent Sicilians. — The Compagnia del S. S. Ro- 
 sario behind S. Domenico (entrance by the Yia Bambinai) contains 
 paintings by Yan Dyck, Novelli, L. Giordano, and others. Farther 
 on , to the left , stands the church of S. Cita (PI. 17 ; E , 5) , the 
 back of the choir of which is embellished with interesting sculp- 
 tures of the early Renaissance. The Yia Cita leads hence to the 
 Porta S. Giorgio and to the Monte Pellegrino (see p. 269). 
 
 Between the Porta S. Giorgio and the Porta Macqueda is the 
 
 17 * 
 
260 Route 25. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 Museum , . 
 
 Porta Colonna (PI. E, 4), beyond which, between the Via Cavour 
 and the Via Stabile , a new quarter has recently sprung up. The 
 English Church (p. 252) is in the Via Stabile. Near it is a marble 
 statue of Vincenzio Florio . 
 
 Not far from the Porta Colonna is the suppressed monastery dei 
 Filippini all ’ Olivella , which now contains the *Museo Nazionale 
 of Palermo (PI. 82; E , 4), a collection chiefly famous for the me- 
 topes of Selinunto , the oldest monuments of the Greek plastic art 
 to which a definite date can be assigned. The museum is open 
 daily, 10-8 (Sun. 11-2), except on Mondays, public holidays, the 
 last three days of the Carnival, and during Passion Week. Admis- 
 sion 1 fr. ; on Sundays gratis. Small catalogue by Ant . Salinas , 
 Director of the Museum, in two parts, price 60 and 50 c. respec- 
 tively. The Museum is at present undergoing alterations, so that 
 the following arrangements are liable to disturbance. 
 
 Ground Floor. We first enter a small colonnaded Court 
 ( I . Cortile) with ancient and mediaeval inscriptions on the walls, 
 of which No. 22, in four languages, is the most interesting. In 
 the middle is a Triton (16th cent.) from a fountain in the royal 
 palace. To the left is the staircase leading to the upper floors ; see 
 p. 261. — To the right is the Hall of St. George, with an altar by 
 A. Gagini (1526) and state-coaches of the 18th century. — On the 
 right and left of the entrance are two small rooms containing mo- 
 dern sculptures. — The Second Court (II. Cortile), formerly the 
 cloisters, contains ancient inscriptions, sarcophagi, cinerary urns, 
 and architectural fragments. 
 
 The Antechamber (Vestibolo ) , which we next enter, contains 
 a statue of an emperor from Tyndaris, freely restored , a colossal 
 statue of Jupiter from Soluntum (to the left) , and a statue of the 
 Einp. Nerva (? on the right). — We now pass to the right through 
 a small room into the Sala de’ Musaici , the floor and walls of 
 which are decorated with the large stone-mosaics found in the 
 Piazza della Vittoria (p. 253) in 1869. That on the ground repre- 
 sents various mythological subjects , among which the head of 
 Neptune is particularly fine; that on the wall, also intended for 
 a floor , represents Orpheus charming the animals. — We again 
 turn to the right , and enter the Sala del Fauno. In the centre 
 is a young * Satyr, pouring out wine, from Torre del Greco. On 
 the right: 3. Priestess of Isis; 4. Head of Bacchus; 16. ^Escula- 
 pius from Girgenti. On each side of the door leading into the 
 room with the Metopes , Roman statues from Tyndaris. On the 
 pavement is a mosaic resembling that of Orpheus (see above), ex- 
 cavated in the Via Macqueda. Some antique architectural frag- 
 ments from Selinunto , etc. , have been recently arranged in this 
 room. 
 
 The Principal Saloon contains the celebrated **Metopes of 
 Selinus, the most ancient specimens of Greek sculpture, with the 
 
Museum. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 25. Route. 261 
 
 exception of the lions of Mycene (comp. Introd., p. xxviii). They 
 belong to different periods. The oldest, to the left of the entrance, 
 dating from the second half of the 7th cent. , still bear traces 
 of the Oriental style from which Greek art derives its origin. 
 
 1. Quadriga (combat of Peleus and (Enomaus?); 2. Perseus slay- 
 ing the Medusa; 3. Hercules Melampygos with the Cercopes. 
 These reliefs belonged to the central temple (C) of the W. hill 
 of Selinus (p. 277), and were discovered in 1823. 4. and 5. Frag- 
 ments of temple F of the Neapolis of Selinus, representing, as is 
 conjectured , a contest between the gods and giants, probably 
 coeval with those from the temple of iEgina , now at Munich. On 
 the wall opposite to us, 6-10, from the pronaos and posticum of 
 temple E , and probably belonging to the 5th cent. : *6. Heracles 
 and Hippolyta ; *7. Zeus and Hera on Mt. Ida; *8. Diana and 
 Actseon; *9. Athene and the giant Pallas; 10. Apollo and Daphne, 
 erroneously so called. These were discovered by Cavallari in 1831. 
 The nude portions of the female figures are inlaid in white marble. 
 The cases to the left contain smaller fragments from Selinunto, 
 those to the right larger fragments. Next, a sitting figure between 
 two winged lions, from Soluntum ; archaic Minerva ; archaic Venus. 
 In the middle of the room : Greek inscription discovered at Seli- 
 nunto in 1871; sarcophagus from Girgenti ; two Phoenician sarco- 
 phagi from Cannita, near Palermo ; gargoyles in the form of lions’ 
 heads from the Greek temple at Himera (now Bonfornello). — In 
 the adjoining three rooms, part of the collection of Etruscan sculp- 
 tures (Museo Casuccini) is exhibited. 
 
 We now return to the first small court , and ascend the stair- 
 case mentioned at p. 260. — On the first landing, halfway up to 
 the right , is a room in which are temporarily placed the curious 
 objects found at Giardini near Taormina , with their enigmatical 
 inscriptions (suspected to be a modern forgery). 
 
 First Floor. We turn first to the left and enter the Sala del 
 Medio Evo , opening off the N. corridor , which contains a plaster 
 cast of the extensive Arabic frieze at La Cuba (p. 266), carvings 
 in wood, weapons, bronzes, works in ivory, glasses from Murano 
 
262 Route 25. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 Museum . 
 
 and Germany, terracottas, paintings, and manuscripts with mi- 
 niatures. — Adjoining is!the Arabian Room : in the middle, large 
 bronze dishes with arabesques and Arabic inscriptions ; in the 
 cases, white painted vessels. — The next two rooms contain noth- 
 ing of importance (old views of Palermo, etc.). 
 
 The S. Corridor (Corridojo di Mezzogiorno) contains ancient 
 vases : 656. Finding of Triptolemus ; 655. Battle of the Centaurs ; 
 1628. Bacchus and Ariadne; 653. Bacchantes; 1631. Mercury and 
 Bacchus. The finest vases, some of them from Agrigentum , are 
 arranged in the middle of the corridor. The cases contain numerous 
 vases from Selinunto. — To the right, at the end of the corridor, 
 is the Room of the Bronzes : in the middle the famous Ram 
 from ancient Syracuse, preserved down to 1848 at the royal palace, 
 with a fellow which has since disappeared ; to the right, Hercules 
 overcoming the stag, from Torre del Greco; on the walls, metal 
 mirrors, etc. 
 
 We now return through the S. Corridor to the W. Corridor 
 (Corridojo di Ponente), which contains Etruscan vases found at 
 Chiusi (Museo Cnsuccini ). — Adjoining this corridor is the 
 Chapel, with ecclesiastical vessels and vestments from the chapel 
 of S. Cita. 
 
 The N. Corridor (Corridojo di Tramontana ) contains cabinets 
 filled with small bronzes, glass vessels, terracottas, prehistoric 
 implements of the flint and bronze periods , etc. Cabinet 64 . 
 Painted figures found in a tomb at Soluntum , resembling those 
 of Tanagra; 67. Small glass vessels, chiefly from Soluntum; 
 68. ‘Tessera Hospitalis’ of bone, from Lilybseum ; 69. Bronzes; 
 74, et seq ., Catapult projectiles of stone, inscribed with the name 
 of L. Piso, the Roman commander in the Servile War; 79-82. 
 Etruscan bronzes from the Casuccini collection ; 83. Prehistoric 
 antiquities. 
 
 The last room of the N. corridor and the E. Corridor (C orri- 
 dojo di Levante) contain Etruscan cinerary urns in stone and 
 terracotta. — In the Cabinet of Coins are admirable specimens 
 
Museum . PALERMO. 25. Route. 263 
 
 of fine old Sicilian coins, excellently arranged. — We now ascend 
 to the — 
 
 Second Floor , which contains the Picture Gallery , a col- 
 lection of no great importance , hut useful for the sake of the re- 
 view it affords of the Sicilian school of painting (p. 249). It also 
 possesses a small early Flemish picture of great value. 
 
 Those in the Corridors, being of inferior value, need not de- 
 tain us long. At the end of the 1st (N.) Corridor is the Gabinetto 
 Gallo , a collection of unimportant works of Sicilian and other 
 painters. — The corridors on the right and the saloons contain the 
 principal collection of the works of native masters : Camulio , Ma- 
 donna, with mosaic frame ; numerous unknown altar-pieces of the 
 14th and 15th cent., the chief of which is a Coronation of the Ma- 
 donna. It is curious to observe how long the Gothic style of framing 
 these altar-pieces prevailed. In the last corridor, No. 554, is the 
 latest, and also best, of the whole series, bearing the date 1492. 
 Then, 85. Antonio Crescenzio , Madonna enthroned, and surrounded 
 by six saints and the donor. 
 
 The First Room, the Sala dell J Ainemolo , principally contains 
 pictures by that master: 91. Scourging of Christ, with the in- 
 scription , ‘expensis nationis Lombardorum , 1542’; 88-93. Six 
 small scenes from the youth of Christ, the finest of which is the 
 last, a Presentation in the Temple; 97. Curious representation of 
 the Madonna as the deliverer of souls from purgatory ; 169. St. 
 Conrad, with predellas ; *102. Descent from the Cross, sombre but 
 harmonious in colouring, tender in sentiment, and admirably exe- 
 cuted , Ainemolo’s master-piece. The Coronation of the Virgin 
 inscribed l Scuola Messinese ’ is probably of German origin. 103. 
 St. Thomas Aquinas , victorious over the heretic Averrhoes , and 
 surrounded by a numerous congregation, by Antonella da Saliba. 
 
 The Second Room , the Sala del Novelli , is chiefly hung with 
 works of that painter, the last great Sicilian master, of whose style 
 they afford a good illustration : 120. Portrait of himself; 110. Ma- 
 donna enthroned, with saints; 112. Communion of Mary Magda- 
 lene; 113. SS. Anna and Mary; 114. Delivery of Peter from 
 prison. 194-196. Remains of a fresco by Novelli from the Spedale 
 Grande; 195. Coloured sketch of the same. Among Novelli’s fa- 
 vourite and frequently recurring types are remarkably tall and 
 almost exaggerated forms, especially in the case of female figures, 
 but in his delineation of characters advanced in life he rivals the 
 best masters of the Neapolitan school. 
 
 The gem of the collection, a work of the highest merit, is pre- 
 served under glass in the Gabinetto Malvagna , adjoining the 
 Sala d’ Ainemolo : 59. A small ** Altar-piece with wings , or trip- 
 tych, of the School of Van Eyck. 
 
 This picture would not be unworthy of John van Eyck himself, but 
 the clear colouring and the miniature-like execution point to some later 
 master (perhaps Memling or Gerhard David). When the shutters are closed 
 
264 Route 25. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 Marina. 
 
 the spectator is presented with a scene of Adam and Eve in a richly 
 peopled Paradise. Adam’s head is very naturalistic, but the figure is not 
 inaccurately drawn. In the background is an angel driving the pair out 
 at the gate of Paradise. On the wings being opened, we perceive in the 
 central scene a Madonna in a red robe, enthroned on a broad Gothic 
 choir-stall, with her flowing hair covered with a white cloth. In her lap 
 is the Infant Christ; on each side of her are angels singing and playing on 
 instruments, beautiful and life-like figures. On the left wing is represented 
 St. Catharine, on the right wing St. Dorothea, the former holding up a richly 
 executed ring, the latter with white and red roses in her lap, and both 
 with angels at their side. The delicate execution of the trinkets on the 
 drapery of the female figures and the pleasing landscape in the background 
 as far as the extreme distance are really admirable. This is one of the 
 very finest works of the early Flemish school. It formerly belonged to 
 the Principe di Malvagna, and was presented to the museum as a ‘Dii- 
 rer\ The brown case, covered with leather and adorned with Gothic or- 
 naments, is probably coeval with the picture itself. 
 
 This cabinet also contains: 60. Garofalo , Madonna; 5. Cor - 
 repc/zo, Head of Christ (a sketch); 35. Van Dyck, Family of Rubens. 
 
 Near the Porta Macqueda (PI. E, 3, 4), at the N. end of the 
 Via Macqueda, the new Teatro Massimo or Vittorio Emanuele , is 
 being erected by the city on the site of the suppressed monasteries 
 of Stimate and S. Giuliano . 
 
 About 1/4 M. from the Porta Macqueda extends the Piazza 
 Ruggiero Settimo (PI. F, 3, 4) , which is embellished with a 
 garden. Statues of two Sicilian patriots have recently been erected 
 here : on the right that of Ruggiero Settimo (d. 1862, honorary pre- 
 sident of the Italian senate) ; on the left that of Carlo Cottone , 
 Principe di Castelnuovo , who was minister in 1812 , during the 
 brief parliamentary government of Sicily under King Ferdinand 
 which was inaugurated by the intervention of England. On one 
 side of the piazza stands the Politeama Theatre . — About l /$ M. 
 farther is the Giardino Inglese (PI. I, 4), with pleasant grounds, 
 and adorned with busts of Garibaldi, Bixio, and others. 
 
 Of Meui/Eval Architecture of the later period Palermo pos- 
 sesses many interesting examples in secular buildings scattered 
 throughout the city. Besides the Chiaramonte (p. 259), Sclafani 
 (p. 255), and Patella (p. 259) palaces, and the Gothic window of 
 the archiepiscopal palace (p. 255), the connoisseur should examine 
 the remains of a palace near S. Antonio in the Yia delle Yer- 
 gini (PI. D, 4) , those in the Yia del Protonotaro, the tower ad- 
 joining the palace of the Duca di Pietratagliata (Yia Bandiera, PI. 
 L>, 4), the' Palazzo Raffadale (PL C, 3), the tower in the palace of 
 Conte Federico near the Benfratelli (Pi. C, 3), etc. 
 
 A beautiful walk is afforded by the * Marina, a quay extending 
 from the Porta Felice along the coast towards the S., formerly call- 
 ed the Foro Borhonico , and now the Foro ltalico (PI. G, B, A, 6), 
 commanding admirable views towards the S. as far as the promon- 
 tory of Monte Catalfano (to the right of which Mt. ./Etna is visible 
 in clear weather), and, to the N., of the picturesque Monte Pelle- 
 grino. The palace at the Porta de Greci (Pl. B, 6), formerly called 
 

 
Botanic Garten . 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 25. Route. 265 
 
 Palazzo Forcella and now the property of the Principe di Bautina, 
 contains handsome saloons in the taste of different centuries. 
 
 At the S. end of the Marina lies the * Flora, or Villa Giulia 
 (PI. B, A, 6), which is entered from the Via Lincoln (p. 258), a 
 street leading towards the W. to the Porta S. Antonino. This public 
 garden , one of the most beautiful in Italy , first laid out in 1777, 
 has recently been considerably extended and improved. The air 
 here in spring is laden with the delicious and aromatic perfumes of 
 oranges, citrons, Erythrina corallodendron, Cercis siliquastrum, and 
 other blossoming trees and shrubs. In summer and autumn the 
 fashionable citizens of Palermo congregate here to listen to a band 
 of music. 
 
 Adjoining the Flora is the Botanic Garden (PL A, B, 5 ; also 
 entered from the Via Lincoln), which deserves a visit both from 
 the scientific traveller and the amateur. 
 
 The beautiful avenue of Date-Palms and Cycas Revoluta will attract 
 the attention of every visitor. Near the entrance are two Australian 
 Coco-trees , while scattered throughout the grounds are fine specimens of 
 Latania Borbonica, Corypha Australis , Musa Ensete , Bananas , Bamboos (at- 
 taining a height of 15 ft.), Strelitzia , Wigandia, Philodendron Pertusum , 
 Australian Myrtaceae , Melaleucea , etc. Some of the flowering-plants in the 
 greenhouses are of astonishing brilliancy. 
 
 Among the other beautiful Gardens in or near Palermo the 
 following may be mentioned : the Giardino d J Acclimazione (p. 266) ; 
 then those of the Palazzo d J Aumale (PI. C, 1), the Villa Tasca 
 (p.266), the Villa Serradifalco (PI. G, 1), the Villa Sofia (p.270), 
 the Villa Belmonte (p. 269), the Favorita (p. 270), and the Hotel 
 des Palmes (formerly Giardino Ingham , p. 250). Admission to 
 private gardens is generally obtained without trouble by a fee to 
 the gardener, or on the presentation of a visiting-card. 
 
 26. Environs of Palermo. 
 
 a. La Cuba. Monreale. S. Martino. La Zisa. 
 
 Distance to Monreale about 472 M. Tramway from the Piazza Vittoria 
 as far as ( 2V2 M.) La Rocca , where the road begins to ascend (50 c. to 
 Cappuccini 20 c., thence to Villa Tasca 15 c., thence to La Rocca 15 c.). 
 The ascent of the hill thence is a pleasant walk of 72 hr. by the old road. 
 Carriages for the excursion may also be hired outside the Porta Nuova for 
 5 fr. (in the town 6 fr.), including a stay of 172-2 hrs. All the way to 
 Monreale the road is guarded by soldiers. The locandas at Monreale are 
 very poor; the least objectionable is the Loc. Pietro Novelli opposite the 
 cathedral. The beggars and donkey-attendants in the town are often ex- 
 cessively insolent. Those who purpose proceeding from Monreale to S. 
 Martino (p. 2G7), about 3 M. farther (miserable road), will do well to take 
 a supply of provisions with them. Donkey 272-372 fr. Inquiry as to the 
 security of the road may be made of the Palermo section of the Italian 
 Alpine Club, Vicolo Trugliari , Via Vitt. Emanuele. One of the officers 
 stationed at Monreale may be asked for a couple of ‘bersaglierP (who also 
 serve as guides $ 4-5 fr. for both) to accompany the traveller as far as 
 Boccadifalco. 
 
 Porta Nuova (PI. C, D, 1), see p. 255. The perfectly straight 
 prolongation of the Via Vittorio Emanuele, called the Corso Gala - 
 
266 Route 2$. 
 
 MONREALE. 
 
 Environs 
 
 tafimi , leads to Monreale. On the right is situated the extensive 
 poor-house (. Albergo de ’ Poveri). 
 
 A little farther on, about V 2 M. from the gate, on the left, is a 
 cavalry-barrack , in the court of which is the old chateau of La 
 Cuba. (Visitors apply to the sentinel and walk in.) On the frieze 
 is a now illegible Arabic inscription, from which it is conjectured, 
 that the building was built by William II. in 1181. Of the once 
 splendid decorations of the interior nothing now remains but a few 
 blackened remains of a honey-combed vaulting in a small court. 
 The palace was once surrounded by an extensive park with fish- 
 ponds. A pavilion once belonging to it is now on the opposite side 
 of the street in the orange-garden of the Cavaliere Napoli (farther 
 on, No. 421, beyond the street leading to the Cappuccini), and is 
 called La Cubola (Decamerone, v. 6); admission on ringing (fee). 
 
 The Strada di Pindemonte , which diverges to the right about 
 230 paces farther on (at the first tramway-station), leads to the 
 (i/ 4 M.) Convento de ’ Cappuccini , in the subterranean corridors of 
 which are preserved the mummified bodies of wealthy inhabitants 
 of Palermo. On All Souls’ Day (2nd Nov.) the relatives of the de- 
 ceased congregrate here in great numbers. This sad, but not un- 
 interesting spectacle should be seen by the curious. (The route 
 hence to La Zisa, ^3 M., is by the Via de’ Cipressi, and then by 
 the first road to the left.) 
 
 On the left side of the Monreale road we next pass the Giar- 
 dino d' Acclimazione , laid out in 1861 for agricultural purposes. 
 On the same side, V/% M. from the Porta Nuova, is the Swiss 
 lodge at the entrance to the charming * Villa Tasca , the property of 
 Conte Tasca, one of the first systematic farmers of Sicily, who 
 possesses an experimental station here, and has surrounded it with 
 a tasteful garden (visitors ring at the entrance to the flower-garden ; 
 0-1 0 soldi to the porter on leaving). 
 
 The group of houses at the base of the height of Monreale is 
 called LaRocca (tramway -terminus). The road, constructed by the 
 celebrated Archbishop Testa of Monreale, ascends in windings to 
 the ‘royal mount’ (1231ft.), on which in 1174 William II. founded 
 a Benedictine abbey, and in 1174-89 erected the famous — 
 
 ** Cathedral of Monreale, around which a town of 16,200 
 inhab. has sprung up since the second archbishopric in the island 
 was transferred hither. 
 
 The church is in the form of a Latin cross, 333 ft. long and 
 131 ft. wide, with three apses. The entrance is flanked by two 
 square towers. The magnificent portal possesses admirable *Bronze 
 Doors dating from 1186, executed by ‘Bonannus Civis Pisanus’, 
 and adorned with reliefs from sacred history. The bronze doors of 
 the side-portals are byBarisano. The edifice was seriously damaged 
 by a fire in 1811, but has been well restored; the cost of the 
 handsome timber- work was defrayed by King Lewis I. of Bavaria. 
 
of Palermo. 
 
 S. MARTINO. 
 
 26. Route. 267 
 
 ’^Interior. The pointed vaulting of the nave is supported by eighteen 
 columns of granite. The transept , approached by five steps, is borne by 
 tour pillars. The pointed vaulting is constructed quite in the Arabian 
 style. 
 
 The * Mosaics with which the walls are entirely covered occupy an 
 area of 70,400 sq. ft., and consist of three different classes: scenes from 
 the Old Testament (prophecies of the Messiah) , from the life of the 
 Saviour, and from the lives of the apostles. The nave contains Old Testa- 
 ment subjects down to the Wrestling of Jacob with the Angel, in two rows 
 of twenty tableaux. Each aisle contains nine, and each transept fifteen 
 scenes from the history of Christ. On the arches of the transept are 
 subjects from the life of SS. Peter and Paul. In the tribune is the bust, of 
 Christ (with the inscription , /. Xq. d navT ozpdz mq) ; below it a Madonna in 
 Trono with two angels and the Apostles at the side } under these are 
 fourteen saints. In the niches at the sides Peter and Paul. Above the 
 royal throne is pourtrayed King William in the act of receiving the crown 
 direct from Christ (not from the pope !) ; above the archiepiscopal seat 
 he is represented as offering a view of the cathedral to the Virgin. — 
 In the right transept are the tombs of William I. and William II. The 
 monument of the former is a sarcophagus of porphyry, like those in the 
 Cathedral at Palermo ; that of the latter was erected in 1575. — The N. 
 aisle contains fine wood -carving in high-relief. Here, too, is the Cappella 
 del Crocefisso, of 1690, adjoining which is the Archiepiscopal Chapel , with 
 wood-carving from the history of the Passion. In the S. aisle is the 
 Cappella di JS. Benedetto , with reliefs in marble of the 18th century. 
 These chapels are opened by the verger. 
 
 The visitor should not omit to ascend to the roof of the cathedral 
 for the sake of the *View it affords. The entrance to the staircase is in 
 a corner at the beginning of the S. aisle (172 steps to the top ; verger fr.). 
 
 Adjoining the cathedral is the Benedictine Monastery , which 
 William supplied with monks from La Cava (entrance by No. 33, 
 the large central door in the piazza which lies in front of the 
 church ; custodian 1 / 2 fr.). Of the original building nothing is 
 now left except the remarkably beautiful * Cloisters , the pointed 
 arches of which are adorned with mosaics and supported by 216 
 columns in pairs ; the capitals are all different, and the shafts also 
 vary (date 1200). The S. side of the cloisters is overshadowed by 
 the ruins of an ancient monastery-wall, with pointed arches. The 
 garden commands a delightful *View of the valley towards Palermo. 
 The fragrance of the orange-blossom here in spring is almost over- 
 powering. The modern part of the monastery, which is now fitted 
 up as officers’ quarters, and which we first reach from the piazza, 
 contains a handsome marble staircase adorned with pictures by Velas- 
 quez (the Sicilian) and by Pietro Novelli (Monrealese ; p. 250). 
 
 From Monreale a steep path to the right (Le Scale) ascends in 
 1 hr. to the top of the hill which is crowned by 11 Castellaccio , 
 a deserted fort (10 min. to the right of the highest point of the 
 path), commanding an extensive view. We then descend to the 
 suppressed Benedictine monastery of S. Martino, founded by 
 Gregory the Great in the 6th cent., and affording another fine 
 *View. Handsome entrance-hall. The monastery is now occupied 
 by an agricultural institution. 
 
 The church is adorned with a fresco by Aintmolo. With the library 
 of the monastery is connected the reminiscence of the extraordinai*y 
 historical forgeries of the Abbate Giuseppe Vella, who had founded a 
 
268 Route 26?. 
 
 LA ZISA. 
 
 Environs 
 
 history of Sicily on a forged Arabic MS., but was detected by Hager of 
 Milan, the Orientalist, in 1794. — Wine is sold at the houses above the 
 monastery. 
 
 From San Martino we descend to the picturesque valley of 
 Boccadifalco , and return thence to Palermo. A pleasant path 
 (72 hr.) leads from Boccadifalco along the heights to La Rocca, 
 p. 266. — Another pleasant route, commanding a fine view of the 
 plain and the sea, leads N.W. from Boccadifalco to the Convento di 
 Baida , founded by Manfred Chiaramonte in 1388 for the Cistercians, 
 and afterwards occupied by Franciscan Minorites. Here in the 10th 
 cent, lay Baidhd (‘the white’), a Saracenic village which was con- 
 nected with Palermo by a row of houses. The terrace affords a fine 
 view. In the vicinity is the not easily accessible stalactite cavern 
 of Quattro Arce. The village of Altarello di Baida contains remains 
 of Mimnermum , a palace founded by Roger. Farther on, we reach 
 Noce , whence a tramway-line (p. 251) runs to Palermo, crossing the 
 Piazza Olivuzza (PI. F, G, 1), where the * Villa Serradifalco , with 
 its beautiful grounds and luxuriant vegetation, is situated. Ad- 
 joining it lay the celebrated Villa Butera, now Villa Florio. 
 
 A few paces beyond the Porta Nuova (p. 255) we turn to the 
 right into the Via della Colonna Rotta , and after 10 min., beyond 
 the small triangular Piazza Ingastoni , we take the Via Zisa to the 
 left (comp. PI. H, E, 1 ; cab 1 fr.), which leads us to the chateau 
 of *La Zisa, now the property of the Marchese di S. Giovanni (about 
 1 M. from the gate, and not far from the Piazza Olivuzza already 
 mentioned). The only remains of the old building , which was 
 erected by William I., are a covered fountain with water descend- 
 ing over marble steps under dilapidated honeycombed vaulting, and 
 some vaulting with pigeon-holes on the upper floor. The flat roof 
 affords a very favourite **View of Palermo. (Entrance by No. 29, 
 the adjacent court on the right ; custodian 72 ^ r - ; adm. at present 
 not easily obtained.) — The large neighbouring orange-gardens are 
 worthy of a visit on account of their luxuriant vegetation (trifling 
 fee). No. 25, to the left of La Zisa, is a good wine-house. 
 
 The Catacombs outside the Porta Ossuna, discovered in 1785, 
 probably belong to the ante-Christian period, and are now destitute 
 of monuments. 
 
 b. Monte Pellegrino. The Favorita. 
 
 Distances. ' From the Porta S. Giorgio to the foot of Monte Pelle- 
 grino 2 M. (one-horse carriage P /2 fr.) $ thence to the top P /4 hr. (bridle- 
 path; donkey from the town 2 fr.). — From the Porta Macqueda to the 
 Favorita 4^2 M. — The Sampolo tramway (p. 251) runs to the entrance to 
 the Favorita. The road to Mte. Pellegrino diverges from the tramway-line 
 at the Carceri, to which point a car may be taken. 
 
 ‘Monte Pellegrino, an indescribably beautiful mass of rock, consisting 
 of grey limestone of early formation, rises at the N.W. end of the 
 Bay of Palermo. In a cavern in this mountain the remains of St. 
 Rosalia (according to tradition, a niece of William II., who while in the 
 bloom of youth had fled hither from motives of piety) were discovered in 
 1664, and conveyed to Palermo. Their presence at once banished the plague 
 
of Palermo. 
 
 MONTE PELLEGRINO. 26. Route. 269 
 
 then raging, and from that time St. Rosalia has been the patron saint of 
 the city. Chapels were erected and brilliant festivals instituted in her 
 honour. The devout undertook pilgrimages to the mountain. A pathway 
 supported by buttresses and arches leads to the sacred spot, which far 
 better befits the humility of the saint than the sumptuous festivities which 
 are celebrated to commemorate her retirement from the world.’ — Goethe. 
 Several stately trees stand in front of the sanctuary. 
 
 We quit Palermo by the Porta S. Giorgio (PI. E, R, 5, and I, 
 5, 6). The drive through the Stradone del Borgo, with its new 
 stone quay, and past the prison, to the foot of the mountain takes 
 less than 4 / 2 hr. — On the right, on an eminence by the sea, rises 
 the Villa Belmonte , which commands a fine view. The zigzag path 
 ascending the Monte Pellegrino, which is visible from the town, 
 cannot be mistaken. Towards the top it becomes easier. Large 
 herds of cattle, horses, and donkeys graze on the mountain in 
 spring, and during the quail-hunting season it is enlivened by 
 numbers of sportsmen, especially at night. 
 
 The * Monte Pellegrino (1958 ft.), the peculiar shape of 
 which renders it easily recognisable from a great distance, is an 
 isolated mass of limestone rock , at one time an island and still 
 separated by the plain of the Conca d’Oro from the other moun- 
 tains near the coast. On the E. side it rises abruptly from the sea, 
 and on the W. side slopes more gently towards the Conca d’Oro. 
 Down to the 15th cent, the mountain was clothed with underwood. 
 In B.C. 247-45 Hamilcar Barca settled on the mountain with his 
 soldiers and their families in order to keep the Roman garrison of 
 Panormus in check, and corn was then cultivated here on the Eircta. 
 Under an overhanging rock of the summit of the mountain, which 
 may also be reached, though not without difficulty, from the oppo- 
 site side, is the Grotto of St. Rosalia , now converted into a church 
 (dwelling of the ‘proposto’ and the priests on the left; bread and 
 wine in the cottage to the left beyond the chapel). The water 
 which constantly trickles down the sides is collected and carried off 
 in leaden gutters. 
 
 The small decorated cavern in which the holy maiden performed her 
 devotions is shown by candle-light ; in front of it is a recumbent Statue 
 of the Saint by the Florentine Gregorio Tedeschi , with sumptuously 
 gilded robes. ‘The head and hands of white marble, if not faultless in 
 style, are at least so natural and pleasing that one can hardly help ex- 
 pecting to see the saint breathe and move.’ (Goethe.) 
 
 Beyond the chapel a steep path leads to the right by the cot- 
 tages to the (20 min.) Survey Station on the summit of the moun- 
 tain, which commands an admirable *View of the beautiful basin 
 around Palermo, the numerous headlands of the N. coast, the Lipari 
 Islands, and the distant JStna. — A path to the left, before the 
 houses are reached, leads in 20 min. to a small temple with a 
 colossal but headless statue of the saint ; on the ground lie two 
 heads. *View hence towards the sea. 
 
 Good walkers may now descend by goat-patbs towards the S. W. 
 direct to the Favorita; others will prefer to retrace their steps and de- 
 scend by the same path. 
 
270 Route 26. 
 
 BAGHERIA. 
 
 Environs 
 
 In the Conca d’Oro, at the base of Monte Pellegrino on the 
 W. side, and 4 M. from the Porta Macqueda, is situated the royal 
 chateau of La Favorita (open to the public) , surrounded by 
 numerous villas of the aristocracy of Palermo. This beautiful 
 country-residence was erected by Ferdinand IV. in the Chinese 
 style , and is surrounded by shady walks and extensive grounds. 
 Splendid *View from the roof. — One of the finest gardens in the 
 neighbourhood of Palermo is that of Mr. Whitaker , at the Villa Sofia , 
 near La Favorita (adm. on application to Director Kunstmann). 
 
 Travellers interested in agriculture may now visit the Istituto 
 Agrario , founded by the minister Carlo Cottone (p. 264). 
 
 This excursion may be pleasantly extended to Mondello , situated on 
 a beautiful bay, with a sandy beach admirably adapted for bathing (poor 
 inn near the pine-tree). — A picturesque footpath leads hence by the 
 beach, skirting the Mte. Pellegrino , to (3V'2 M.) Acqucisanta , where the 
 traveller may dine (in summer) at the "Restaurant des Bains, returning 
 thence to Palermo by tramway. 
 
 To the S.W. of Cape Gallo is the Bay of Sferracavallo , whence we 
 may follow the beach to Capace and the picturesquely-situated Garini 
 (p. 273). This excursion should, however, be made by carriage or by a 
 large party. 
 
 c. Bagheria. Soluntum. 
 
 Railway to Bagheria (Girgenti line), three trains daily (fares 1 fr. 50, 
 1 fr. 5, or 75 c.). Station outside the Porta S. Antonino (PI. A , 4). 
 Travellers starting by the first train may inspect the most interesting 
 points of Soluntum and Bagheria, and continue their journey by the next 
 train to Termini (p. 286). — Carriage to Bagheria 8-10 fr. ; to Bagheria 
 and Soluntum in 8 hrs., 12-15 fr., a charming drive. Luncheon should 
 be carried with the party. 
 
 A short distance from the town the railway crosses the 
 Oreto , beyond which, to the left below us, we observe the lofty 
 arch of the now abandoned Ponte delV Ammiraglio , constructed 
 in 1113 by the admiral Georgios Antiochenos. Immediately ad- 
 joining it are the ruins of the most ancient Norman church in 
 Sicily, San Giovanni dei Leprosi , founded by Roger. Here, 
 in B.C. 251 , the consul Metellus defeated the Carthaginians, 
 and captured 120 elephants. In the neighbouring bay Duquesne 
 nearly annihilated the united Dutch and Spanish fleets in 1673. 
 In the fertile coast-district the Saracens once cultivated the sugar- 
 cane. On the right rises the Monte Griff one. 
 
 5 M. Ficarazzelli ; 6 M. Ficarazzi. 
 
 8 M. Bagheria, or Bagaria ( Albergo Verdone, with good trat- 
 toria), a country-town with 11,600 inhab. , contains groups of 
 palatial villas of Sicilian nobles, now deserted. The Villa Val- 
 guarnera merits a visit for the sake of the magnificent *View from 
 the terrace and from the adjacent Montagnuola. The Villa Butera , 
 Villa Palagonia , and others contain a few fantastic works of art. 
 
 10 M. Santa Flavia. Phoenician tombs, probably of the Cartha- 
 ginian period, were discovered here in 1864. — (Journey hence 
 to Girgenti, see R. 30.) 
 
of Palermo. 
 
 S. MARIA DI GESU. 
 
 26. Route. 271 
 
 Leaving the station, we cross the line to the right, pass through 
 the gate before the last house on the left (that of the custodian ; 
 guide or porter fr.), traverse an olive-garden, and follow a 
 road (at first practicable for carriages) leading in ^lir. to the ruins 
 of the Phoenician stronghold of Solus , Soloeis, or Soluntum, situated 
 on the eastmost hill of the promontory of Catalfano. The name of 
 the present town, which lies lower down, is Solanto. The period 
 of the destruction of Soluntum, probably by the Saracens, cannot 
 now he determined. Nearly the whole of the ancient paved cause- 
 way, ascending the hill in zigzags, has been brought to light. The 
 town was very regularly laid out , the streets running from E. to 
 W. and N. to S., and crossing each other at right angles. A narrow 
 passage was left between the backs of the rows of houses to allow 
 the water to escape from the hill , which is so steep as to have 
 necessitated the construction of flights of steps in some of the 
 streets. The internal arrangement of several of the houses is still 
 recognisable. The house where the columns have been re-erected 
 is supposed to have been the Gymnasium. Admirable * Views are 
 enjoyed from the promontory to the E., and from the summit, 
 the latter embracing the coast to a point beyond Cefalu. Towards 
 the E., where the Tonnara di Solanto (tunny-fishery, p. 286) is 
 situated, lay the harbour of the town. 
 
 Good walkers may descend the steep hill to Bagheria either by a 
 direct and easy footpath from S. Flavia , or round the promontory and 
 through the village of Aspra , which lies on the sea. Thence to the station 
 11/2 M. 
 
 Farther up the brook Bag aria (the ancient Eleutherus ), 1 M. to the 
 E. of Portella di Mare , once lay a large Phoenician town, afterwards a 
 Saracenic stronghold, called Kasr-Sdd , now the village of Cannita. The 
 Grse co-Phoenician sarcophagi of the museum of Palermo were found here. 
 
 d. S. Maria di Gesfi. 
 
 Distance from the Porta S. Antonino 2 l /v M.; one-horse carriage 2 l /v fr. 
 
 Leaving Palermo by the Porta S. Antonino, we follow the Via 
 Oreto (PI. A, 3, 4), which leads between houses for some distance. 
 After 3 / 4 M. the road describes a sharp curve to the right, while 
 walkers may proceed straight on in the same direction. 
 
 *S. Maria di Gesd (163 ft. above the sea), formerly a Minorite 
 monastery, and now a barrack , commands one of the finest views 
 of Palermo, with the Monte Pellegrino in the background, and is a 
 favourite point with artists and photographers. The cemetery of 
 the monastery, now enlarged, contains the burial-places of many 
 Palermo families, and is traversed by the road. Above it we open 
 an iron gate on the left in order to ascend to the dilapidated loggia 
 of a conspicuous chapel, which is the finest point of view. 
 
 In the Monte Griffone, 3 A M. from S. Maria di Gesu, is the Grotta de ’ 
 Giganti , or S. Ciro (from the neighbouring church), a cave well known to 
 palaeontologists as a fertile source of fossil bones, which it still contains 
 in great quantities. Children at the entrance offer hones and teeth for sale. 
 Near it are three arches of some mediaeval building. 
 
272 Route 26. 
 
 USTICA. 
 
 On the way back to Palermo , to the right of the road close to 
 the village of Brancaccio , are the remains of the Saracenic-Norman 
 chateau of La Favdra , the magnificence of which has been highly 
 extolled by Arabian and Jewish travellers of the middle ages, and 
 where Frederick II. held his court. The building, which has been 
 built up on two sides, is now called the Castello di Mare Dolce , 
 from a pool at the base of Mte. Griffone, whence a water-channel 
 has been constructed past the Favara to Brancaccio. (Visitors from 
 Palermo to La Favara take the road from the Ponte dell’ Ammiraglio 
 to Brancaccio, and then follow the canal.) To the left, as we ap- 
 proach the town, extends the Campo di S. Spirito , the old cemetery, 
 laid out in 1782. (The new cemetery lies on the N.E. side of M. 
 Pellegrino.) In 1173 Walter of the Mill founded a Cistercian mon- 
 astery here, and near it, on 31stMarch, 1282, began the massacre 
 of the Sicilian Vespers, during which the bell of S. Giovanni 
 degli Eremiti was tolled. 
 
 A pleasant walk or drive is afforded by the so-called Giro 
 (Round) delle Grazie. We follow the road to S„ Maria di Gesu till 
 the Oreto is crossed, and then turn to the right to Le Grazie (about 
 3 M.), whence we return by another road, which also crosses the 
 Oreto, towards the Porta Nuova, finally taking the tramway from 
 the Porrazzi to the Piazza Vittoria. 
 
 From Palermo an excursion may be made by steamboat in 5 hrs. (on 
 two Sundays of each month, fare 7 Vs fr.) to the island of Ustica, 37*/2 M. 
 distant, and 10 M. in circumference. Its principal mountains are the Fal- 
 coniera on the E. and the Quadriga di Mezzo (3411 ft.) to the W. The 
 island was colonised by the Phoenicians in ancient times , and was sub- 
 sequently taken by the Romans. During the middle ages it was but thinly 
 peopled. As lately ag 1762 the whole population was murdered or carried 
 off by pirates. The number of inliab. is now 1550, many of whom are 
 prisoners sentenced to banishment here (‘ Domicilio coatto'). The caverns 
 are interesting to geologists. Fossil conchylia are also found in the island. 
 
 27. From Palermo to Segesta, Castelvetrano, and 
 Selinunto. 
 
 This is the direct route to the ruins of Segesta and Selinunto. 1st Day : 
 To Calatafimi (40 M.). 2nd Day: To Segesta, 4 M. from Calatafimi, and 
 back ; then to Castelvetrano (27 M.). 3rd Day : To Selinunto, and beyond 
 it, see R. 27. — The Diligence leaving Palermo at 4 p. m. arrives at Ca- 
 latafimi at 3. 30 a. m., where it corresponds with another to Castelvetrano, 
 which is reached in 4-5 hrs. (To Trapani, see p. 279.) In the reverse 
 direction : departure from Castelvetrano 12 noon ; arrival at Calatafimi 
 4 p. m. ; departure thence 10.30 p. in.; arrival at Palermo 9 a. m. — For 
 a carriage with three horses from Palermo to Segesta the charge is about 
 90 fr. and a gratuity. — [The journey to Calatafimi will be greatly faci- 
 litated in 18S0 by the opening of the Railway from Palermo to Parti- 
 nico (comp, the Map of Sicily).] 
 
 With the aid of the steamer, the excursion to Segesta and Trapani 
 may be arranged thus : — 1st Day, to Calatafimi ; 2nd Day, to Segesta, and 
 by diligence to Trapani; 3rd Day, to Monte S. Giuliano ; 4th Day, by 
 steamer from Trapani back to Palermo. Or in the reverse direction, by 
 steamboat to Trapani and back to Palermo by diligence. 
 
 The Steamers of the Florio Co. leave Palermo on Fridays at or after 
 
ALCAMO. 
 
 27. Route. 273 
 
 9 a.m., and arrive at Trapani about 3. 30 p.m. ; they start again at 3 a.m. 
 on Saturday, reaching Marsala at 5 a.m. (stay of 1 hr.), Mazzara at 6. 45 
 a.m. ( 3 / 4 hr.), Sciacca 10.30 a.m. (1 hr.), Porto Empedocle (for Girgenti) 
 2. 30 p.m. (1 hr.), Palma 4. 30 p.m. (1 hr.), and Licata 7. 10 p.m.; the 
 journey is continued hence on Sunday at 4 a.m. ; Terranova 5. 20 a.m. ; 
 Scoglietti 8 a.m. ; Pozzallo 12. 15 p.m. ; arrival at Syracuse 1. 30 p.m. — In 
 the reverse direction: departure from Syracuse, Mon. 11 p. m. ; from Poz- 
 zallo , Tues. 5.30a.m.; from Scoglietti 9 a.m.: from Terranova 11a.m.; 
 Licata 1. 30 p.m. ; Palma 4 p.m. ; Porto Empedocle 6. 20 p.m. ; Sciacca Wed. 
 
 1 a. m. ; Mazzara 4 a. m. ; Marsala 8 a.m. ; Trapani 1 p. m. ; arrival in 
 Palermo 7 p.m. — As, however, the S. coast of Sicily is difficult to navigate, 
 the punctuality of the steamers cannot be depended on. — The steamboat 
 for Tunis , mentioned at p. 279, leaving Palermo on Tues. at 10 p.m., 
 also touches at Trapani, which it reaches on Wed. at 4 a.m. 
 
 From Palermo to Monreale, 4^ M., see pp. 265, 266. After 
 another hour’s drive the ascent becomes more rapid. At the point 
 where the road turns to the W. we enjoy a beautiful retrospective 
 view of Palermo and the valley of the Oreto, beyond which lie the 
 Lipari Islands in the distance. Farther on we enter a small ravine, 
 and in 2 4 / 4 hrs. from Monreale we reach the culminating point of 
 the road, beyond which we descend through a wild rocky valley, 
 with a view of the fertile plain of Partinico and Alcamo and of the 
 mountains of the peninsula of S. Vito. 
 
 151/2 M. Borgetto , a town with 6000 inhab., lies in a richly 
 cultivated district. The Due d’ Aumale possesses large and admir- 
 ably managed estates in this neighbourhood. 
 
 l? 1 ^ M. Partinico (Locanda della Bambina), a country-town 
 with 20,900 inhabitants. 
 
 Beyond tbe mountain-chain which towers to the IT. of Partinico ( Mte . 
 Belvedere and Mte. Orso) , not far from the sea, is situated Carini , once 
 the free Sicanian town of Hyccara , whence in 415 the Athenians are said 
 to have carried off the celebrated courtezan Lais , then a girl of twelve 
 years. 
 
 Beyond Partinico the road passes the dreary village of Valguar- 
 nera. The conical mountain to the left, adjoining M. Mitro 
 (3546 ft.) , is the Pizzo di Mirabella. The soad then traverses 
 several deep ravines. 
 
 30 M. Alcamo (853 ft. ; Albergo di Segesta, Corso Sei Aprile 
 29; Locanda delta Fortuna; both tolerable; *Cafe opposite the 
 post-office), a town of Arabian origin, with 22,500 inhabitants. In 
 1233, after an insurrection, Frederick II. substituted a Christian 
 for the Saracenic population, but the town still has a somewhat 
 Oriental appearance. There are, however, a few mediaeval and 
 Renaissance remains , such as the portal of the church of S. Tom- 
 maso and the campanile of the Cathedral. Above the town rises the 
 Mte. Bonifato , or della Madonna delf Autu (Alto; 2713ft.), whence 
 a magnificent prospect of the Bay of Castellamare is obtained. The 
 house pointed out here as that of Ciullo d J Alcamo, the earliest Si- 
 cilian poet, who flourished in the 13th cent., is really of much 
 later origin. 
 
 From Alcamo to Catalafimi there are two roads. The old road 
 skirts the Monte Bonifato , crosses the Fiume Freddo, and then re- 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 18 
 
274 Route 27. 
 
 SEGESTA. 
 
 From Palermo 
 
 ascends. The new road also crosses the Fiume Freddo , near its 
 junction with the Fiume Caldo , and then ascends the valley of the 
 latter; farther on it joins the road from Castellamare, and passes 
 below the ruins of Segesta. 
 
 The Fiume Freddo was anciently called the Crimissus ; the river of 
 that name, however, on which in B.C. 340 Timoleon with 11,000 men de- 
 feated the Carthaginians with 70,000, is probably the modern Bilice. 
 
 Near the mouth of the river formed by the union of the Fiume Freddo 
 and the Fiume Caldo lies Castellamare del Golfo (12,400 inhab.), which 
 gives its name to the bay between the promontory of S. Vito on the W. 
 and that of Rama on the E. It was once the seaport of Segesta, and now 
 carries on a considerable trade. 
 
 The road now ascends from the Fiume Freddo to — 
 
 40 M. Calatafimi ( Albergo Garibaldi alia Piazza Maggiore , in- 
 different, bargaining necessary), a town with 10,000 inhabitants. 
 If we ascend the principal street, a good footpath diverging to the 
 right beyond the town will lead us to the top of the hill occupied 
 by the Castle. Fine *View hence of the temple, the town below, 
 and the extensive mountainous landscape in the environs. 
 
 From Calatafimi to Segesta, a ride of i l U hr. (comp, the 
 Map, p. 276). 
 
 The whole excursion takes 4-5 hrs.; mule or donkey 2 ] /2 fr. — The 
 road is good, but somewhat steep towards the end. Good water and some- 
 times tolerable wine may be procured from the custodian near the temple. 
 
 The best route is by the Castellamare road, descending a beau- 
 tiful, well-watered valley, from which the new road to Alcamo di- 
 verges after 3 M. (see above). Beyond a mill , at a point 2 M. 
 from Calatafimi, we diverge by a narrow road to the left. We cross 
 the fiumara, and ride in the direction of the custodian’s house on 
 the hill. We may now ascend the Monte Barbaro, visit the theatre, 
 and descend to the temple, among the columns of which we rest 
 for luncheon. 
 
 Segesta, or Egesta as the Greeks usually called it, one of the 
 most ancient towns in the island, was of Elymian, not of Greek 
 origin, and though completely Hellenised after the lapse of cen- 
 turies, it was almost incessantly engaged in war with its Greek 
 neighbours. 
 
 The Greeks entertained the unfounded opinion that the Egestans were 
 descended from the Trojans, who settled here near the warm springs of 
 the Scamander (Fiume Gdggera ), and had combined with the Elymi so as 
 to form a distinct people. During the Roman period the tradition accord- 
 ingly arose that the town was founded by iEneas. The ancient town ex- 
 perienced the most disastrous vicissitudes. Oppressed by the inhabitants 
 of Selinus, the Egestans invited the Athenians to their aid, and after the 
 defeat of the latter at Syracuse, they turned to the Carthaginians, on 
 whose arrival followed the war of B.C. 409. Egesta found, however, that 
 its connection with Carthage did not conduce to its own greatness, and 
 accordingly allied itself with Agathocles ; but the tyrant on his return 
 from an expedition against Carthage in B.C. 307 massacred 10,000 of the 
 ill-fated inhabitants on the banks of the Scamander in order to appro- 
 priate their treasures, whilst others were sold as slaves. The town was 
 then named Diceeopolis. During the First Punic War the inhabitants allied 
 
oooos : 
 
C A LATA FI Hi 
 
 e ROVIME <T« SEOESTA 
 
to Selinunto. 
 
 CASTELVETRANO. 
 
 27. Route. 275 
 
 themselves with the Romans and changed the name of their town from 
 the ill-omened Egesta (egestas) to Segesta. The Romans, out of vene- 
 ration for the ancient Trojan traditions, accorded them some assistance. 
 Verr< s despoiled the town of the bronze statue of Demeter, which had once 
 been carried off by the Carthaginians and restored by Scipio Africanus. 
 The ruins still in existence are the following : — 
 
 The **Temple, situated on a hill to the W. of the town (904 ft.), 
 is a peripteros-hexastylos of thirty-six columns, but was never 
 completed. The columns are therefore untluted, the steps of the 
 basement unfinished, showing the portions added to facilitate the 
 transport of the stones, and the cella not begun. In other respects 
 it is one of the best-preserved Doric temples in Sicily, and its 
 simple but majestic outlines in this desolate spot, surrounded by 
 lofty mountains, are profoundly impressive. Length , including 
 the steps, 200 ft. ; width 85 ft. ; columns with capitals 29 ft. in 
 height and 6 ft. in thickness; intercolumnia 8 ft. in width. As 
 the architraves were beginning to give way, they were secured 
 where necessary with iron rods in 1865. 
 
 The town itself lay on the M. Barbaro. The interesting 
 ^Theatre commands a beautiful view. Before us, beyond the stage, 
 rises M. Inice (3491 ft.), more to the left is the M. Sparagio 
 (3704 ft.), to the right is the so-called Bosco di Calatafimi , and 
 lower down the valley of the Seamander (Gaggera) are the remains 
 of the Thermae Segestanae, supplied by four different warm springs 
 which the road to Castellamare passes. The diameter of the theatre, 
 which is hewn in the rock, is 205 ft., that of the stage 90 ft., 
 and of the orchestra 53 ft. The seats are divided into seven cunei , 
 and separated by a praecinctio. The twentieth row from the ‘pr*e- 
 cinctio’ is furnished with backs. A few remains of houses with 
 Roman and Greek mosaic pavements have recently been excavated. 
 
 The temple commands a distant view of the field, indicated by 
 crosses, where Garibaldi gained the victory of 15th May, 1860. A 
 monument is to be erected on the spot. 
 
 From Calatafimi to Castelyetrano , 25 M. The route is 
 monotonous and uninteresting historically. 
 
 44M. Vita. 48^2 M. Salemi , a town with 14,800 inhab., 
 commanded by a ruined castle. The scenery improves near — 
 
 59 1/ 2 M. Castelvetrano, Sicil. Casteddu Vetranu (623 ft. ; Lo- 
 canda della Pantera , tolerable, charges according to bargain ; *Risto - 
 ratore Bixio , with a few rooms ; Caffe di Selinunte , in the Piazza), 
 a provincial town , with 21,200 inhab. who are hereditary tenants 
 of the fertile district around the town, the property of the dukes of 
 Monteleone (of the family of Aragona-Pignatelli). The campanile 
 of the church adjoining the Palazzo Monteleone affords the best 
 panorama of the surrounding plain. The church of S. Giovanni 
 contains a statue of John the Baptist by Gagini. A small Museum 
 of vases, terracottas, and other articles found at Selinunto, is^con- 
 
 18 * 
 
276 Route 27. 
 
 SELINUNTO. 
 
 tained in the gymnasium. Professor Ingoglia, the inspector of the 
 antiquities, will be found most obliging. 
 
 The Railway from Castelvetrano to Trapani is to be opened in 
 the spring of 1880. 
 
 From Castelvetrano to Selinunto , 7 ! / 2 M. (a new road). 
 
 A ride of 2‘/2 hrs. (Mule there and back 2 fr., and an additional 
 sum for food and gratuity.) — The custodian lives at Castelvetrano, but 
 is often to be found at Selinunto. Clemente , the ‘Guardia delle An- 
 tichita 1 , resides at the Acropolis. There is a Casa dei Viaggiatori at the 
 Acropolis, but a supply of refreshments should be taken for the journey. 
 Architects or others intending to make a prolonged stay at Selinunto 
 should apply to the custodian. An introduction by Cav. Cavallari, the 
 director of the excavations at Palermo, is also desirable. 
 
 We follow the Sciacca road, and then diverge to the right to the 
 ruined temples of the Neapolis on the E. hill. In order to reach 
 
 the Acropolis, we 
 may either cross 
 the valley, which 
 is marshy after 
 rain, in a straight 
 direction, or cross 
 the sand-bank as 
 near the sea as 
 possible. 
 
 **Selinus, among 
 whose ruins are the 
 grandest ancient 
 temples in Europe, 
 was founded in 650 
 or 628 by colonists 
 from Megara Hy- 
 blaea under Pam- 
 milus, and was the 
 westernmost set- 
 tlement of the Hel- 
 lenes in Sicily. On 
 an eminence by 
 the sea, 100 ft. in 
 height, to the E. 
 of the river Selinus 
 (Modione ) , Pam- 
 milus erected the 
 Acropolis, behind 
 which , more in- 
 land, he placed the town itself. On the opposite hill, separated from 
 the citadel by a marshy valley (Gorgo di Cotone ), the credit of 
 draining which is ascribed to the philosopher Empedocles, a sacred 
 precinct was founded in the 6th century. The Selinuntians were 
 still engaged in the construction of the temples of the latter when 
 
SELINUNTO. 
 
 27. Route . 277 
 
 Hannibal Gisgon destroyed the town in 409. The conflicts between 
 the Selinuntians and Egestans, whose territories were contiguous, 
 afforded the Athenians, and afterwards the Carthaginians, a pre- 
 text for intervening in the affairs of Sicily. Hannibal attacked 
 the town with 100,000 men. Help from Syracuse came too 
 late; 16,000 inhabitants were put to the sword, and 5000 car- 
 ried off to Africa as captives ; 2600 only effected their escape to 
 Acragas. From that blow Selinus never recovered. Hermocrates, 
 the exiled Syracusan patriot, founded a colony here in 407, but 
 under the Carthaginian supremacy it never attained to prosperity, 
 and in the First Punic War it was finally destroyed. Since that 
 period it has remained deserted, as the district is unhealthy in 
 summer. The temples alone were not entirely abandoned , for 
 in the early Christian period cells were formed between the 
 buttresses and occupied as dwellings. The Mohammedans called 
 the place Rahl-el-Asnam , or ‘Village of the Idols’, and here 
 they resisted the attacks of King Roger. It cannot now be as- 
 certained when the columns were overthrown. The temple G 
 only appears to have been destroyed by human agency; the 
 ruin of the others was probably caused by an earthquake. The 
 sculptures found here belonging to the temples are now in the 
 museum at Palermo (pp. 260, 261). A careful examination of the 
 Acropolis has been recently begun. 
 
 The W. hill, on which lay the earliest town, was entirely sur- 
 rounded with walls. These walls were destroyed in B.C. 409, but 
 the higher part of them was re-erected two years later, partly with 
 materials from other buildings. This part of the town was traversed 
 by two main streets, discovered by Cavallari, running N. and S. 
 and E. and W., from which the other streets diverged at right 
 angles. The most important remains in the E. half of the Acro- 
 polis are those of temples. On the site of the southernmost, 
 which we shall designate by the letter A, a modern house has been 
 built. Next to it, beyond the line of the main street running from 
 E. to W., is a small temple, recently discovered; and beyond it 
 is another small temple (B), which has been minutely described 
 by Hittorff. The next temple (C), to which the oldest metopes 
 belonged , was probably sacred to Hercules , though Benndorf 
 assigns it to Apollo ; some of the columns are monoliths. Temple 
 D is not so ancient as Temple C ; a somewhat elevated platform 
 has lately been brought to light in front of it. The foundation- 
 walls of numerous other ancient buildings are traceable within 
 the Acropolis, and graves containing skeletons and houses, of a 
 later date, also occur. Crosses chiselled on the overthrown archi- 
 traves indicate that these last were dwellings of the Christian 
 period. — A building , which was probably a Theatre , has been 
 lately discovered outside the N. gate of the Acropolis, to the 
 right; the fact that capitals from an earlier edifice have been 
 
278 Route 27. 
 
 SEL1NUNT0. 
 
 used in its construction prove that it was not erected before B.C. 
 407. To the N. of this point lay the town proper, the remains 
 of which are very scanty. — Still farther to the N., on the ridge 
 between the farms of Galera and Pagliazzo , was the earliest Necro- 
 polis . At a later period, hut before B.C. 409, the citizens had 
 their Necropolis to the W., beyond the river Selinus ( Modione\ 
 on the heights to the S. of the farm of Manicalunga. The wild 
 parsley which gave name to the city and was represented 
 
 on its coins, still grows in abundance on the banks of the river. 
 Adjacent to the farm of Messana , which lies just beyond the river 
 and may be recognised by its shady garden, Cavallari has lately dis- 
 covered a temple open to theE. and W.. and near it an inscription 
 bearing the name of Hecate. 
 
 On the E. hill lie the mins of three temples , but no other re- 
 mains of any kind. The southernmost, which we designate 2£, 
 contained five metopes : of these two were in the posticum, one 
 representing Athena and the Giant, the other damaged beyond 
 recognition ; three were in the pronaos, and represented Hercules 
 and the Amazon , Zeus and Hera , Artemis and Actseon. An altar 
 and inscription dedicating the temple to Hera were found here 
 in 1865. The middle temple (F), some of the columns in which 
 were left unfinished, yielded the two lower halves of metopes 
 discovered by Messrs. Harris and Angele. The last temple (G), 
 one of the largest Grecian temples known, was left unfinished, as 
 is proved by the fact that nearly all the columns are unfluted. An 
 inscription found in it seems to assign the temple to Apollo. Ac- 
 cording to Benndorf, Temples C and D were built soon after 
 B.C. 628, Temple F and part of G in the 6th cent. B.C., and 
 Temples A and E and the rest of G in the 5th cent. B.C. 
 
 The following measurements are given approximately in English 
 feet. 
 
 Length of temple including steps 
 
 A. 
 
 129 
 
 B. 
 
 33 
 
 C. 
 
 231 
 
 D. 
 
 190 
 
 E. 
 
 229 
 
 F. 
 
 216 
 
 G. 
 
 372 
 
 Width of temple including steps 
 
 57 
 
 19 
 
 85 
 
 91 
 
 90 
 
 92 
 
 175 
 
 Height of columns with capitals . 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 29 
 
 - 
 
 33 
 
 30 
 
 57 
 
 Diameter of columns 
 
 3*/, 
 
 - 
 
 13 
 
 2ty 
 
 4 
 
 2V3 
 
 103/4 
 
 Height of entablature (trabeazione) 
 
 9 
 
 - 
 
 121/3 
 
 121/2 
 
 15 
 
 151/3 
 
 19 
 
 Intercolumnia 
 
 5 
 
 - < 
 
 71/2 
 
 63/4 
 
 81/2 
 
 73/4 
 
 81/2 
 
 103/4 
 
 Length of cella 
 
 91 
 
 - 
 
 131 
 
 118 
 
 165 
 
 125 
 
 272 
 
 Width of cella 
 
 28 
 
 - 
 
 34 
 
 28 
 
 47 
 
 27 
 
 76 
 
 About 8 M. to the N.W. of Selinunto are the " Quarries of Selinunto, 
 now called Rqccci di Cusa or Cave di Campobello , which may also be 
 
TRAPANI. 
 
 28, Route , 279 
 
 visited from Campobello (p. 283) or from Mazzara (p. 283). The road from 
 Selinunto (guide advisable) crosses the mouth of the Modione, and turns 
 to the N., passing the recently-excavated temple and the houses of Manica - 
 lung a , Lazio , and Parisi. It then traverses a well-cultivated, garden-like 
 district to the Baglio delV Inglese (Mr. Hobbs), which is close to the 
 famous quarries, where the inhabitants of Selinunto hewed the stones 
 used in the construction of their huge temples. The work was suddenly 
 interrupted, doubtless on the capture of the town by the Carthaginians in 
 B.C. 409, and has never since been resumed. The various stages of the 
 process of quarrying are still traceable. A circular incision was first 
 made in the rock, and then hewn out till a space of a yard in width was 
 left free between the solid rock and the monolithic drum of the column. 
 The block was then severed entirely from the rock, and its bed left empty. 
 A number of such drums are lying ready for transport at the bottom of 
 the quarry ; others have already been carried for some distance along the 
 road from Mazziara to Selinunto. Among the drums, which measure 8-10 ft. 
 in length and about 8 ft. in diameter, are some which correspond exactly 
 with those used for the columns of temple G (p. 278), and which were 
 undoubtedly designed for the completion of that building. 
 
 28. From Calatafimi to Trapani, Marsala, and 
 Castelvetrano. 
 
 Two days: 1st. To Trapani, 23 M. ; ascent of Monte S. Giuliano, 
 6-7 hrs. there and back; 2nd. From Trapani to Marsala, 19 l fe M., and 
 by Mazzara to Castelvetrano, 22 1 /^ M. 
 
 The Diligence which leaves Calatafimi in the morning (see p. 272) 
 reaches Trapani at 9 a.m. , Mazzara at 6 p.m. , and Castelvetrano at 
 9 p.m. — In the reverse direction : departure from Castelvetrano 6.30 a.m. ; 
 arrival at Mazzara 9.30 a.m., at Marsala at noon, at Trapani 5.30 or 6 p.m., 
 at Calatafimi 10.30 p.m. — The Steamer which plies weekly to and from 
 Syracuse touches regularly at Trapani, and at Marsala and Mazzara 
 alternately (comp. p. 273). — [The opening of the Railway from Trapani 
 to Castelvetrano, which is expected to take place in the spring of 1880, 
 will materially shorten this route.] 
 
 The inhabitants of the W. coast of Sicily are generally very civil, 
 and bargaining at the inns is seldom necessary as it is elsewhere. 
 
 Calatafimi and Segesta , see R. 27. Farther on, the country is 
 very hilly. Halfway between Calatafimi and Trapani stands the 
 solitary inn of — 
 
 12 M. Canalotti , or Colonnetta. A little beyond it we cross 
 a range of hills and obtain a fine view of the Monte S. Giu- 
 liano (p. 280) and the ^Egadian Islands. Skirting the base of 
 Mte. S. Giuliano, and passing extensive saltworks, we next 
 reach — 
 
 23 M. Trapani. — "Leon d’Oro, near the gate, in the Strada 
 Nuova, R. 1 fr., dinner not supplied; *Cinque Torri, Largo S. Niccolo; 
 Alb. Trinacria, new. — There is a Locanda on Mte. S. Giuliano, where 
 those who wish to see the sunset and sunrise may obtain quarters. — 
 Giardinetto , not far from the Cinque Torri, and Sicilia , near the harbour, 
 are good restaurants. 
 
 Mules and Donkeys for the Monte S. Giuliano are to be found near 
 the gate, in the first street on the right (2-2V2 fr., boy l / 2 -l fr.). — Car- 
 riage with three horses to the Mte. S. Giuliano 25-30 fr. 
 
 Coral and alabaster work is a speciality of Trapani. 
 
 Trapani , the ancient Drepana (from drepanon , a sickle), so 
 called from the form of the peninsula, a town with 36,000 in- 
 
280 Route 2ft. MONTE S. G1ULIANO. From Calatafimi 
 
 hab., lies at the N.W. extremity of Sicily, and is the seat of a 
 prefect and a bishop. The harbour is good, and the trade of the 
 place not inconsiderable. 
 
 In ancient times it was the seaport of Eryx (Mte. S. Giuliano), but 
 was converted into a fortress by Hamilcar Barca about the year 260, and 
 peopled with the inhabitants of Eryx. In 249 the Carthaginian admiral 
 Adherbal defeated the Roman fleet under the consul Publius Claudius off 
 the harbour, and in 242 Drepana was besieged by the consul Lutatius 
 Catulus , whose headquarters were in the island of Columbaria (Colum- 
 bara). On this occasion the Carthaginian fleet, laden with stores, on its 
 route from Maritimo to Favignana, was destroyed in March 241, in sight of 
 the town, a victory which terminated the First Punic War. During the 
 Roman period the town was unimportant. In the middle ages it pros- 
 pered as a royal residence. In the iEneid, Anchises is represented as 
 having died here, and iEneas as having instituted games to his father’s me- 
 mory. The island described as the goal in the boat-race is now called 
 Asinello. Another tradition is that John of Procida formed the conspiracy 
 against Charles of Anjou on the Scoglio del Mai Consiglio. It is, however, 
 an historical fact that Peter of Arragon , touching here on 30th 
 Aug. 1282, on his return from Africa with his fleet, was welcomed as 
 a deliverer. 
 
 Save a few mediaeval structures, Trapani contains nothing 
 attractive. The public Library was founded by Ferdella, a Nea- 
 politan minister of war, a native of the place. The Lyceum , 
 to the right in the Corso, contains a natural history collection and 
 a picture-gallery (l/ 2 fr.). The Cattedrale S. Lorenzo , on the 
 right side of the Corso, possesses a Crucifixion by Van Dyck (4th 
 chapel on the right), freely retouched. 
 
 A pleasant walk may be taken to the Torre de Legni , */ 2 M . 
 (inclining to the right) from the gate next the sea, at the end of 
 the Corso. 
 
 The attractive ^Excursion to Monte S. Giuliano (comp. 
 Map, p. 264) occupies fully half-a-day. The traveller had better 
 ride or walk (2l/ 2 hrs. ; donkeys and carriages, see p. 279). The 
 road traverses the plain we have already crossed on our way to 
 Trapani, which Virgil makes the scene of the games instituted by 
 .Eneas. The modern water-conduit supplies the town. On the 
 right is the church of the celebrated Madonna di Trapani , erected 
 in 1332. Here the road diverges, and pedestrians may ascend 
 from it to the left by a steep footpath. The precipitous slopes are 
 beautifully wooded at places. Midway is the small but fertile 
 Piano dei Cappuccini , to the right of which is the rock Petrale , 
 and to the left La Cintaria. 
 
 *Monte San Giuliano, the Eryx of antiquity, is an isolated 
 mountain , 2464 ft. in height. On its summit is situated a 
 town ( Locanda , clean, near the church of S. Domenico; Caffe of 
 Mastra Salvatore , Corso Vitt. Emanuele) which is rapidly falling 
 to decay. The number of inhabitants (6100 at the last census) 
 is speedily decreasing owing to the frequent migrations which 
 take place to the plain at the foot of the mountain. At the 
 entrance of the town stands the Cathedral ? the campanile of 
 
to Castelvetrano . MONTE SAN GIULIANO. 28. Route. 281 
 
 which affords a fine view. The interior, restored in 1865, con- 
 tains an ancient fountain-enclosure of almost transparent marble. 
 We ascend through the town to the towers fitted up as a resi- 
 dence by Count Pepoli , commanding a splendid view and con- 
 taining a collection of objects of art , and then to the ivy-clad 
 Castle (partly used as a prison; door-keeper 30 c.). The rugged 
 rock on which it stands commands a noble prospect of the land 
 and sea. To the W. at our feet lies Trapani, and beyond it are 
 the ^Egadian Islands: Maritimo (ancient Hiera; with the Monte 
 Falcone, 2244 ft.), the most distant; to the left, nearer us, 
 Favignana (^Egusa, 1069 ft.); on the right Levanzo (Phorbantia) ; 
 all of which belonged to the Genoese family of the Pallavicini 
 from the middle of the 17th cent, till 1874, when they were 
 purchased by Sign. Florio of Palermo. Towards the S. stretches 
 the fertile plain of the coast, with Paceco (p. 282); in the 
 background is Marsala. Towards the E. tower the mountains 
 of S. Vito (from W. to E. Sparagio , Laccie , Sauci, San Bar- 
 naba, Rocca, and Corvo); and the conical peninsula of Cofano 
 extends into the sea, which bounds three sides of the mountain. 
 In winter Cape Bon in Africa is occasionally, and the island 
 of Pantelleria (p. 374) frequently visible. In spring the whole 
 district at our feet is clothed with the most luxuriant verdure. 
 
 On the summit once stood the shrine of Venus Erycina , a deity wor- 
 shipped by all the people of the Mediterranean. The modern town is 
 probably co-extensive with the sacred enclosure. The same spot, had pre- 
 viously been the site of a temple of Astarte, erected by Phoenician settlers, 
 on whose altar no blood wss permitted to flow. Melkarth was also wor- 
 shipped here ; the Greeks therefore believed the temple to have been 
 founded by Hercules, and Dorieus, brother of Leonidas of Sparta, undertook, 
 as a Heraclides , an expedition to conquer this district , but was defeated 
 and slain by the Phoenicians and Egestans. During the First Punic War 
 Hamilcar Barca surprised the town, which lay on the slope of the moun- 
 tain , but has left no trace of its existence , and besieged the temple, 
 which was bravely defended by the Celtic mercenaries in behalf of Rome, 
 but at the same time plundered by them. The Carthaginians were in their 
 turn surrounded from below by the Romans , who afterwards restored 
 the temple, furnished it with a guard of 200 men, and bestowed on it the 
 revenues of seventeen towns of Sicily (for Eryx, it was said, had also been 
 founded by jEneas !). According to some the temple was founded by Dseda- 
 lus, and Eryx by a son of Venus and Butes. The present name is derived 
 from the tradition, that, when the town was besieged by King Roger, he 
 beheld St. Julian putting the Saracens to flight. 
 
 The only remains of the temple of Venus are the foundations 
 within the castle, the so-called Ponte or Arco del Diavolo , 
 and the ‘Fountain of Venus’ in the castle-garden, an ancient re- 
 servoir, 4 yds. in width, and 8 yds. in length. Of the walls of the 
 sacred city of Venus considerable portions still exist beneath the 
 present wall, between the gates of Trapani and La Spada, con- 
 sisting of huge blocks in courses of equal height. The wall was 
 defended by eleven towers at unequal intervals. The entrance to 
 the town was obviously between the Monte di Quartiere and the 
 Porta la Spada, where in the interior of the town the walls of 
 
282 Route 28. 
 
 MARSALA. 
 
 From Calatafimi 
 
 the approach can be traced towards the right. These walls are 
 unquestionably of very great antiquity, although it cannot now 
 be ascertained by what nation they were erected. 
 
 From Trapani to Castelvetrano (28M. by the direct road ; or, 
 via Marsala and Mazzara, the route followed by the new railway, 
 about 42 M.). The road traverses an undulating and richly cul- 
 tivated district, in which palms are seen occasionally near the 
 loftily-situated country-houses. 26!/ 2 M. La Xitta. 27 M. Paceco, 
 founded in 1609, is famed for its cucumbers and melons. Beyond 
 it we cross the Birgi , the ancient Acithis. Here, in the plain of 
 Falconaria, Frederick II. of Sicily routed the united French and 
 Neapolitan armies, and took Philip of Anjou prisoner, on 1st Dec. 
 1299. This was the greatest of the battles which took place 
 during the wars after the Sicilian Vespers. To the right is Lo 
 Stagnone , a shallow bay, with the islands of Borrone , Isola Longa , 
 and nearer the coast the Isola S. Pantaleo. — (In fine weather 
 a very pleasant trip may be made by water from Trapani by the 
 Isola S. Pantaleo to Marsala; boat with two rowers 10-15 fr. ; 
 supply of provisions necessary.) 
 
 421/2 M. Marsala (Albergo del Leone , near the cathedral, 
 dirty ; Trinacria , tolerable ; ^Trattoria of Francesco Porcelli , at 
 the post-office, near the Porta Garibaldi; * Caffe Lilibeo, opposite 
 the cathedral) is an important commercial town with 36,300 
 inhab. , well known for the Marsala wine which is manufactured 
 here from Sicilian wines and spirit. The principal firms are 
 Ingham , Florio , and Woodhouse , who kindly admit visitors to 
 see their extensive and interesting establishments, situated on 
 the shore to the S. of the town. Garibaldi with 1007 men, 
 transported by the ‘Piemonte’ and ‘Lombardo’, landed here 011 
 11th May, 1860, and began his famous progress through the is- 
 land, which terminated in a few weeks with the overthrow 
 of the Bourbon supremacy in Sicily. The town, a modern place, 
 contains nothing noteworthy, except perhaps the cathedral and 
 the harbour. The Municipio (last door on the right) contains an 
 antique animal-group from Motye, a tiger devouring a bull. 
 
 Marsala occupies the site of the ancient Lilybaeum, a frag- 
 ment of the town-wall of which is preserved near the Porta di 
 Trapani. Other relics are the harbour to the N. , where the 
 salt-works are now situated, and a few fragments of houses and 
 walls on the coast of Capo Boeo (or Lilibeo'), the westernmost 
 point of Sicily and the nearest to Africa. In the centre of a 
 field on the promontory stands the church of S. Giovanni Bat- 
 tista, with a subterranean spring in the Grotta della Sibilla 
 (Cumana). The sibyl is said to have proclaimed her oracles 
 through the medium of the water, which is still an object of 
 superstitious veneration. 
 
to Castelvetrano . 
 
 MAZZARA. 
 
 28. Route. 283 
 
 Lilybeeum was the principal fortress of the Carthaginians in Sicily. 
 Pyrrhus besieged it unsuccessfully in 279, after which he quitted the island. 
 In 249-41 the Romans in vain endeavoured to reduce it during one of 
 the most remarkable sieges on record. Under the Roman supremacy Lily- 
 bseuin was a very handsome city (‘splendidissima civitas' 1 ), and the seat of 
 government for half the island of Sicily. From this point the Roman 
 expeditions against Africa, and in modern times those of John of Austria, 
 were undertaken. The present name of the town is of Saracenic origin, 
 Marsa-Ali , harbour of Ali. Charles V. caused stones to be sunk at the 
 entrance to the harbour, with a view to deprive the barbarians of one of 
 their favourite haunts. 
 
 On the small island of S. Pantaleo, situated in the shallow ‘ Sta- 
 gnone ' near the coast, about 6 M. to the N. of Marsala (boat thither from 
 Marsala 4 fr.), was anciently situated the Phoenician emporium of Motye. 
 The foundations of old walls round the island, and remains of the gates, 
 especially on the side next the land, with which the island was connected 
 by an embankment, are still traceable. The latter still exists under water, 
 and is used by the natives as a track for their waggons. In B.C. 397 the 
 town was besieged and destroyed by Dionysius with 80,000 men and 700 
 vessels, and the Carthaginian admiral Himilco totally routed. It was with 
 a view to repair this loss that the Carthaginians founded Lilybaeum. 
 
 The road from Marsala to Mazzara, 11 M., at first traverses 
 admirably cultivated land, planted chiefly with the vine, and after- 
 wards a tract of moor. For the greater part of the way it is bord- 
 ered with aloes. 
 
 53Y2 M. Mazzara ( Albergo Centrale di Selinunte , close to the 
 old castle , with *Trattoria ; opposite , Locanda Vecchia , poor , R. 
 75 c. ; *Cafe near the Piazza del Duomo) , officially styled Maz- 
 zara del Vallo , a town with 12,800 inhab. , the residence of a 
 bishop, is surrounded by a quadrangular wall about 36 ft. in height, 
 which is defended in the characteristic Italian style with square 
 towers rising from it at intervals. It was originally a colony of the 
 Selinuntians , but , like the mother-city, was destroyed by Hanni- 
 bal Gisgon in B.C. 409. In 827, the Arabs landed at Rds el-Belat 
 (Punta di Granitola ), to the S. of Mazzara, with the intention of 
 conquering the island. The ruined Castle at the S.E. angle of the 
 town-wall was erected, or at least strengthened, by Count Roger in 
 1073, who also founded the Cathedral , which contains three an- 
 cient sarcophagi (Battle of the Amazons 5 Wild Boar Hunt ; Rape 
 of Persephone , freely restored) , and a Transfiguration over the 
 high-altar by Gagini. On the river Mazaras farther up, into the 
 estuary of which the tide penetrates for a considerable distance, 
 are situated grottoes in which the ‘beati Pauli’ once assembled. 
 The mansion of the Conte Burgio , at the W. corner of the Piazza 
 del Duomo , and the Archiepiscopal Palace opposite the cathedral 
 contain several fine large Oriental porcelain vases. Pleasant walk 
 on the Marina. 
 
 Beyond Mazzara the road crosses the river Delia , and grad- 
 ually ascends across an extensive moor to (61 M.) Campobello. 
 On the road here is a small locanda, where travellers from Maz- 
 zara used to spend the night, visiting Rocca di Cusa (p. 278) and 
 Selinunto on the following day, and reaching Castelvetrano in 
 
284 Route 29. 
 
 SCIACCA. 
 
 Prom Castelvetrano 
 
 the evening. The new road to (3 M.) Rocca di Cusa cannot be 
 missed. 
 
 66 M. Castelvetrano , see p. 275. 
 
 From Mazzara to Selinunto (i 8 l /2 M. ; a ride of 6 V 2 hrs. ; mule 6-7 fr.). 
 Those who intend to take this direct route should procure a trustworthy 
 guide, as the way is difficult to find. The road crosses the river, di- 
 verges to the right from the road over the moor to Rocca di Cusa (p. 
 278), where the quarries of Selinunto may be visited, and leaves Campo- 
 bello on the left. For the rest of the route, see p. 279. 
 
 29. From Castelvetrano (Selinunto) to Girgenti. 
 
 About 63 M. There is no carriage-road except near Girgenti, and con- 
 sequently no diligence. The route between Selinunto and Sciacca (28 M.) 
 must be performed on horseback. From Sciacca to Girgenti by sailing-boat 
 in 4 hrs. when the wind is favourable (return-boats sometimes to be met 
 with at a reduced fare), a shorter, pleasanter, and cheaper journey than 
 the land-route. The latter is a fatiguing ride of 39 M. to Girgenti, as no 
 tolerable quarters for the night are to be found on the way. The route is 
 very attractive at places. For 3 mules with 3 attendants from Castelvetrano 
 to Sciacca 30 fr. were recently paid; and for 3 mules with one attendant 
 from Sciacca to Girgenti 45 fr. A boat may also often be found at Selinunto 
 to convey travellers to Sciacca (8 fr.). The Syracuse steamboat (p. 272) 
 touches at Sciacca weekly (Saturday forenoon ; landing or embarcation 
 1 fr.) , a pleasant means of conveyance to Girgenti if it should happen to 
 suit the traveller’s convenience. 
 
 If Castelvetrano be quitted early, it is possible to ride in 
 one day by the ruins of Selinus to Sciacca (28 M. ; or by the di- 
 rect route from Castelvetrano about 24 M.). From the Acropolis 
 we again cross to the Neapolis, traverse wheat-fields and vineyards, 
 and reach the Flume Belice (ancient Hypsas ), which we cross at 
 a ford. The route then lies partly across the sand of the coast, 
 partly through poorly cultivated land, to Sciacca. The town of 
 Menfrici (Sicil. Menfi; 397 ft.), with 10,000 inhab., lies a little 
 to the left. The stones for the Metopse of Selinus appear to have 
 been quarried near this town. 
 
 Sciacca {La Pace, clean; Caffe d J Italia), with 20,600 inhab., 
 situated on an abrupt eminence (262 ft.) on the coast, occupies 
 the site of the Thermae Selinuntinae of antiquity. Tommaso Fa- 
 zello (d. 1570), the father of Sicilian history, was born here. 
 For the sake, it is said, of acquiring an illustrious countryman, 
 he describes Agathocles, the tyrant of Syracuse, who was born at 
 Therm® Himerenses (Termini), as a native of Sciacca. In the 
 middle ages the town was a place of some importance, being 
 a royal and not merely a baronial borough. Powerful nobles, 
 however, also resided here, the ruins of whose castles are still 
 to be seen in the town; the most extensive of these are on the 
 E. side of the town-wall. Here rise the ruins of the castles of the 
 Luna and Perollo families, whose feuds, the so-called Casi di 
 Sciacca, disturbed the tranquillity of the town for a whole 
 century (1410-1529), a fact which serves to convey an idea of 
 the condition of medi®val Sicily. The Cathedral was founded 
 
to Oirgenti . 
 
 MONTE S. CALOGERO. 29. Route. 285 
 
 by Julietta, the daughter of Roger I. The finest view is afforded 
 by the tower of 8. Michele. The Casa Starepinto and Casa 
 Triolo are interesting specimens of mediaeval architecture. The 
 spacious modern palace, with a beautiful garden, at the E. gate, 
 is the property of the Marchese San Giacomo. 
 
 Monte S. Calogero (1279 ft.), an isolated cone, 3 M. to the E. of 
 Sciacca, deserves a visit on account of its curious vapour-baths. In the 
 valley between Sciacca and the mountain are the sources of the hot 
 sulphur (133° Fahr.) and salt (88°) springs , which attract numerous 
 patients in summer. The foundation of the vapour -baths ( Le Stufe ; 
 temperature varying from 92° to 104°) was attributed to Daedalus, and the 
 mountain called in ancient times Mons Kronios. The grottoes, partially 
 artificial, with unimportant inscriptions, such as the Grotta Taphano ( della 
 Diana) and delle Pulzelle , are interesting. In the middle ages the 
 discovery of the efficacy of the baths was attributed to S. Calogero (mod. 
 Greek kaldgros , monk), and most of the baths in Sicily are accordingly 
 named after that saint, as in ancient times they were all believed to 
 have been established by Daedalus. The island of Pantelleria is distinctly 
 visible from the Monte S. Calogero. On 18th July, 1831, a volcanic island 
 (Isola Ferdinandea) , 4 M. in circumference, with a crater, rose from the 
 »ea between Sciacca and Pantelleria, but on 18th Jan.. 1832, entirely dis- 
 appeared. In 1864 symptoms of a submarine eruption were again observed. 
 The sea is now very deep at this point. Not far from it a valuable coral 
 reef was discovered in May, 1875, and it now attracts many hundreds of 
 coral-fishers. 
 
 From Palermo to Sciacca by Corleone (about 66 M.). As the 
 latter part of the road is extremely rough and little used , the following 
 slight sketch will suffice. Palermo is quitted by the Porta Nuova, the 
 Largo dell 1 Indipendenza is crossed , and the Strada Pisani followed, 
 which leads to the Lunatic Asylum and crosses the Oreto. The road then 
 ascends to ParcOy where William II. once possessed his extensive hunting 
 preserves. The view of Palermo from the height above Parco is one 
 of the finest in Sicily. We next reach (8V2 M.) Piana dei Greci , an 
 Albanian colony, established in 1488. The peculiarities of the language 
 and customs of the town are gradually becoming extinct-, the inhabitants 
 are notorious for their predatory propensities. The road then ascends a 
 long and dreary valley. Before us the mountain-ridge o Busambra lies 
 in an oblique direction, with the woods of Cappelliere towards the E., 
 where the hunting lodge of Ficuzza is situated. Another road ascends 
 hither from Ogliastro. The road to Corleone descends by numerous 
 windings, after having quitted the height where the ruins of the Saracenic 
 stronghold Calata Busambra are situated. 
 
 Corleone ( Albergo delle Palme , new , fine view) , anciently KorliUn , 
 with 16,900 inhab., is a town of Saracenic origin, where Frederick II. 
 established a Lombard colony in 1237. Its inhabitants were therefore 
 the most strenuous opponents of the house of Anjou. 
 
 From Corleone the road leads via Campofiorito , skirting the cliffs of 
 Monte Cardellieri and Monte Buraco , to Bisacquino (9700 inhab.) and 
 (13 M.) Chiusa-Sclafani (7200 inhab.), where it divides. The road to 
 the right leads to Giuliana and Sambucca , a well-built town with 9100 
 inhab., which under the name of Rahal Zabuth belonged to the monastery 
 of Monreale in 1185. Farther on, to the right, are situated Contessa , an 
 Albanian settlement, and the ruins of Entella on the bank of the Belice 
 Sinistro y 5 M. from Contessa, and accessible from the S.E. only. Entella 
 was an Elymian town, of which mention is made in the Trojan-Sicilian 
 myths. In 403 it was taken by surprise by the Campanian mercenary 
 troops of Dionysius I. From Sambucca the road proceeds W. to Sella- 
 Misilbesi , where it unites with the road from Partanna (12,500 inhab.) 
 and S. Margherita (7500 inhab.), and then leads E. to Sciacca (p. 284). 
 From Sciacca to Girgenti, about 38 M. (a fatiguing ride of 12 
 
286 Route 30. TERMINI. From Palermo 
 
 hrs.). We cross the Fiume Caltabelotta; to the left on a precipi- 
 tous height, on the right hank of the river, 10 M. inland, stands 
 Caltabelotta. About 1 M. to the S. of it, on a still higher hill 
 (2428 ft.), now occupied by the church of 8. Maria a Monte Ver- 
 yine , lay Triocala , celebrated for the siege it sustained in the Se- 
 cond Servile War, B.C. 102. The view thence is one of the 
 finest in Sicily. On the left bank lies the small town of Ribera 
 (Cafe-Restaurant Garibaldi). Farther on we cross (20^2 M.) the 
 river Platani (ancient Halycus ) and reach , having accomplished 
 about half the journey, — 
 
 Montallegro (miserable locanda), a place consisting of two vil- 
 lages , the older on the hill , now deserted owing to want of water, 
 and the newer lower down. Near the village is a small lake, nearly 
 i/ 2 M. in diameter, impregnated with carbonate of soda. 
 
 On the Capo Bianco (98 ft.), between the Platani and Monte Allegro, 
 once lay Heraclea Minoa. At first Macara , a Sicanian town, stood here*, 
 it then became a Cretan and Phoenician settlement ( Rus-Melkarth ), the 
 Greek Minoa. It was next colonised by Lacedaemonians under Euryleon, 
 successor of Dorieus who was slain at Eryx, and received the name of 
 Heraclea Minoa. At a later period it was generally in possession of the 
 Carthaginians. Coins bearing the old Phoenician inscription ‘Rus Melkarth’ 
 are still extant. When it was finally destroyed is unknown , and very 
 few fragments of it now exist. 
 
 A new and good road leads from Montallegro to (15 M.) Porto 
 Empedocle. 
 
 Porto Empedocle , and thence by railway to Qirgenti , see p. 289 ; 
 the distance by road is scarcely 4 M. 
 
 30. From Palermo to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle. 
 
 Railway from Palermo to Qirgenti , 84 M., in 6 l /‘2-7 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 30, 
 10 fr. 70, 7 fr. 65 c.). Two through-trains daily. From Girgenti to Porto 
 Empedocle , 6 M., in 6 V 2 hrs. (fares 1 fr. 15, 80, 60 c.). It is advisable to 
 take a supply of provisions. 
 
 The railway traverses the fertile plain of the coast (stations 
 Ficarazzelli and Ficarazzi ) to Bagheria (p. 270), and runs thence 
 between the sea and the hills, passing through several short 
 tunnels, and generally parallel with the road. 10 M. 8. Flavia , 
 station for Solunto (p. 270). 11 M. Casteldaccia. 13 M. Altavilla ; 
 the village , on the hill to the right , possesses one of the oldest 
 existing Norman churches, called La Chiesazza , founded by Robert 
 Guiscard in 1077. A number of ‘tonnare’ (apparatus for catching 
 the tunny-fish) are observed in the sea. A red flag hoisted near 
 them in the month of May indicates that a shoal has entered, or 
 is about to enter the nets, and is a signal for a general onslaught 
 of the fishermen. 19^2 M. Trabia , an imposing old castle on the 
 coast. Then a bridge over the Fiume 8. Lionardo , and a tunnel. 
 
 23 M. Termini ( Locanda della Fenice , with trattoria, near the 
 station), one of the busiest provincial towns of Sicily, with 21,400 
 inhab., situated on a promontory, presents a poor appearance to 
 
to Qirgenti. 
 
 TERMINI. 
 
 30. Route. 287 
 
 those coming from Palermo. The houses of the nobility are sit- 
 uated on the hill, those of the merchants on the E. side. The 
 maccaroni (pasta) of Termini is considered the best in Sicily. 
 
 Termini ( Thermae Himerenses ) , probably an ancient Phoenician mar- 
 ket , was founded as a town by the Carthaginians in 407 , after the de- 
 struction of Himera. It soon , however , became Hellenised , and in the 
 First Punic War was taken by the Romans. Under the latter it was a 
 prosperous place , and even in the middle ages it was a town of some 
 importance. Robert of Naples, who attacked Sicily in 1338, besieged the 
 strong castle of Termini in vain. This ancient stronghold was destroyed 
 in 1860. 
 
 The substructions of a Roman building, supposed to have 
 been a basilica, have been excavated in the Villa della Citt&, in 
 the Piano di S. Giovanni, above the town (fine *View), where 
 there are also traces of an amphitheatre. The Aqua Cornelia , 
 a Roman aqueduct to the S.E. of the town, was destroyed in 
 1438. Its remains from Brucato downwards merit a visit on 
 account of the remarkable fertility of the surrounding district. 
 A collection of prehistoric , Greek , and Roman antiquities , and a 
 number of paintings by early Sicilian masters are preserved at the 
 old Ospedale dei Benfratelli (fine Gothic window in the hall) , un- 
 der the charge of Prof. S. Ciofalo , Inspector of the antiquities. 
 Termini was the birthplace of Niccolo Palmieri , a distinguished 
 Sicilian political economist and historian , who was interred in the 
 Chiesa del Monte. The bath-establishment, situated on the E. 
 side of the hill , was founded by Ferdinand II. , and is well fitted 
 up. The springs (110° Fahr.) contain Epsom salts. The baths 
 are extolled by Pindar. 
 
 On a rocky slope above the Fiume S. Lionardo, 4 M. from Termini, 
 is the town of Caccamo , containing 7800 inkab. , and commanding a fine 
 view. — The ascent of the precipitous Monte San Calogero (4347 ft.) is 
 recommended (8-9 hrs. from Termini). The finest view near Termini 
 is afforded by the rocks above the castle. 
 
 The charge for a carriage from Termini to Cefalii is apt to be high 
 (30 fr.), so that it is better to make the trip from Cerda (p. 288). 
 
 From Termini to Leonforte. This road, about 6272 M. in length, 
 was once the route usually pursued by the Arabs on their predatory in- 
 cursions from Palermo into the interior. It ascends by the Fiume Torto 
 to Cerda (p. 288), crosses the mountain, and descends to the valley of the 
 Fiume Grande and the small town of Sclafani , which possesses hot springs 
 of some repute (bare and uninviting bath-rooms) and a church containing 
 an antique sarcophagus with Bacchic reliefs. The next little town, Calta- 
 vuturo (18 M. from Termini), is of Saracenic origin ( Kalat-Abi-Thaur), and 
 was taken by Roger I., who bestowed it on his daughter Matilda. It now 
 contains 5800 inhabitants. [To the E. of Caltavuturo, on a rock 3000 ft. 
 in height, lies Polizzi , surnamed La Generosa , a town of considerable im- 
 portance in the middle ages, near which rise the Himera Meridionalis 
 ( Fiume Salso) and the Himera Septentrionalis (Fiume Grande ), which the 
 ancients believed to possess one common source.] The road next leads to 
 Petralia di Sotto and di Sopra , two country-towns in a fertile district with 
 imposing mountainous environs , occupying the site of the ancient Petra 
 or Petraea. To the S., on the top of the hill, lie Buonpietro and Alimena . 
 The latter was conquered by the Saracens in 843, and is perhaps the 
 ancient Hemichara or Imachara. From Petralia the road traverses a lofty 
 mountain to (6 M.) Gangi , a town with 13,700 inhab., the ancient Sikelian 
 Enguium , originally a Cretan, i.e. a Phoenician colony, where in Cicero’s 
 
288 Route 30. 
 
 CAMMARATA. 
 
 time a celebrated temple of the ‘Cretan Mothers 1 ( Matres ; not Mater 
 Magna as Cicero has it), despoiled by Verres , was situated. The road 
 leads hence through a fertile tract to (9 M.) Sperlinga (2592 ft.) , which 
 alone showed partiality to the French in 1282, whence the saying, ‘Quod 
 Siculis placuit sola Sperlinga negavit 1 $ thence to (3 M.) Nicosia , with 
 15,300 inhabitants who speak a Lombai*d dialect, a town of thoroughly 
 mediaeval appearance, regarded as more behind the age than any other 
 in Sicily. The road then passes Rocca di Sarno , where the brave Norman 
 Serlo perished through treachery, and leads to Leonforte (p. 297). 
 
 The train continues to skirt the coast , with the Monte San 
 Calogero rising on the right, crosses the Fiume Torto , and then 
 turns inland towards the S., following the right bank of the stream. 
 
 28 M. Cerda ; the village lies on the hill to the left, 4 M. 
 from the station ; on the right rises the M. Calogero. (High-road 
 to Cefalh, see p. 304.) 32 M. Sciara. The train crosses the Fiume 
 Torto , passes through a tunnel , and then recrosses the stream. 
 38 M. Montemaggiore. The river is again crossed. 
 
 44 M. Roccapalumba; the village lies at some distance to the 
 right. On a steep hill (2400 ft.) to the left, 4 M. from the 
 railway, is situated the town of Alia , with 5000 inhabitants. 
 
 Part of the railway from Roccapalumba to Vallelunga and S. Caterina 
 is to be opened in August, 1880, and the remainder in 1881, with the ex- 
 ception of the Tunnel at Marianopoli , which is nearly 4 M. long and will 
 require 7 years to complete. 
 
 The train ascends, and crosses the watershed between the Tyr- 
 rhenian and African seas. Two tunnels. — 48 M. Lercara , with 
 9000 inhab. , a miserable place of bad reputation , near which are 
 the northernmost sulphur-mines in the island. The train leaves 
 the town on the hill to the right, passes through a tunnel, and 
 enters the valley of the Platani , on the left bank of which the 
 station lies. To the right opens the beautiful basin of (53 M.) 
 Castronuovo. On the Cassaro , a hill above Castronuovo, are some 
 mural remains of a very ancient town. The yellow marble columns 
 at Caserta were quarried here. The ruins of the mediaeval Castro- 
 nuovo lie at the foot of the Cassaro. The train then crosses to the 
 right bank of the Platani. 
 
 55^2 M. Cammarata , a town with 5600 inhabitants. The 
 Rizzo di Cammarata (5173 ft.) is one of the highest mountains in 
 the island, and commands a magnificent view. The ascent may be 
 made from S. Giovanni (see the Map) in the course of a forenoon, 
 by starting at 5 a.m. and staying not more than 1^2 hr. at the top. 
 
 60 M. Spina is the station for Casteltermini (Loc. of Luigi 
 Livorsi), a town with 9200 inhab., situated on a hill 4 M. to the 
 S.W. — 62 M. Acquaviva- Platani. 65 M. Sutera ; the town (4200 
 inhab.), with a ruined castle, is situated on a hill to the left 
 (JPmo di Sutera , 2687 ft.). In 860 the Arabs called the town Sotir . 
 It is supposed by some to have been the ancient Camicus , where 
 Daedalus built a castle for Cocalus. 
 
 Beyond (661/2 M.) Campofranco the train passes through a 
 narrow and rocky defile between the Monte di Roveto on the right 
 
iTorto l&ipjje&oclef' 
 
 r 
 
 S^'VuJl 
 
 CJSoT6eUitto m 
 
 *j!nrbo 
 
 S. pi e g offr i o 
 
 wC.S.Gregorio II , 
 
 Biwnccliotuia. 
 
 JfC£eOot 
 
 T to 
 anti co. 
 
 '(Caruso +CScdtL 
 
 CONTORNI D1 CIRCE Nil 
 
 Scala itel 1:50.000. 
 
 Ch.iiom.etri. 
 
Hotels . 
 
 GIRGENTI. 
 
 31. Route. 289 
 
 and the Rocca Grande on the left. The valley opens near Passo - 
 fonduto. Farther on , the train skirts the left bank of the Platani 
 for a short distance, and then ascends a side-valley towards the S. 
 74 M. Comitini , with valuable sulphur-mines , the property of 
 Ignazio Genuardi, of Girgenti, the ‘sulphur-king’ of Sicily. On a 
 hill, 1^2 M. to the W., lies Aragona , with a modern chateau and 
 12,400 inhabitants. 77Y2 M. Caldare is the station for Canicatti 
 (p. 295). To the right opens a splendid view over the hills as far 
 as the distant sea. 
 
 84 M. Girgenti, see below ; omnibus to the town ^ fr* 
 
 The train now descends , skirting the hill on which the town 
 lies, passes through a short tunnel, crosses the valley of the Fiume 
 di Girgenti , and reaches — 
 
 90 M. Porto Empedocle , formerly called Molo di Girgenti 
 (miserable trattoria, where a bed may be obtained if necessary), a 
 busy little seaport with 7500 inhab., where the sulphur and corn- 
 exporters of Girgenti have extensive magazines. 
 
 31. Girgenti. 
 
 • Hotels. *Albergo di Belvedere, with fine view, R. 2-3 fr., B. 1 fr., 
 A. 50-75 c., French spoken 5 *Albergo Gelia, Via Atenea, R. 172-3, L. 
 and A. I74 fr- , a trattoria on the first floor; Albergo Empedocle, for 
 natives, similar charges; "Albergo Centrale, opposite the Gelia, un- 
 pretending, R. I72, L. and A. 3 /* fr., terrace on the rdof with view of the 
 sea. — Trattoria & Ca/4 Brasile , Via Atenea. S. Nicola , see p. 293. 
 
 Guides. Michele Pancucci , the custodian of the antiquities, is the best 
 guide to the ruins (5 fr. per day), but unnecessary. 
 
 Post Office, Vico Secondo S. Giuliano, entrance from the Piazza dell 1 
 Universita. — Telegraph Office, Piazza del Duomo 3. 
 
 Railway to Palermo, see R. 30. — Steamboats, see p. 272. 
 
 Carriages. From the station to the town 2 fr. ; ‘un posto 1 , or a seat 
 for a single traveller, 50 c., luggage 25 c. — Carriages wait in the Via 
 Atenea to take passengers from the town to the station.. — To the ruins 
 and back (3 hrs.) 5fr., each additional hour F/2 fr. (provisions should 
 be taken with the party). 
 
 Disposal of Time. A day or a day and a half suffices for the sights : 
 1st Day: Monuments outside the town; Evening, or 2nd Day (morning): 
 Sights in the town. 
 
 Girgenti , the ancient Acragas or Agrigentum , with 21,700 in- 
 hab., the most richly endowed bishopric in Sicily, is the seat of 
 a prefect , and the military headquarters of the district. It is now 
 provided with water-works, partly constructed from an ancient 
 aqueduct. The four gates are the Porta del Molo , del Ponte , 
 Siberia, and Panitteri. The trade of the town is considerable, 
 nearly one-sixth of the Sicilian sulphur being exported from Porto 
 Empedocle, the seaport of Girgenti (see above). 
 
 AcragaSy ‘the most beautiful city of mortals' 1 according to Pindar, was 
 founded by colonists from Gela in 582. The Doric settlers, some of them 
 natives of Rhodes, introduced the worship of Athene of Lindus and also 
 that of Zeus Atabyrius, i.e. the Moloch of Mt. Tabor. After having 
 erected a temple to Zeus Polieus, ‘the founder of cities’, Phalaris usurped 
 the supreme power with the assistance of his workmen, and ruled from 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 19 
 
290 Route 31: 
 
 GIRGENTI. 
 
 Rock of Athene. 
 
 564 to 549, when he was deposed by the Eumenides Telemachus , and an 
 oligarchy of sixty years now began. The cruelty of Phalaris has become 
 proverbial ; he is said, for instance, to have sacrificed human victims to 
 Zeus Atabyrius in red-hot bulls of metal. In 488 Theron , a descendant 
 of Telemachus, subverted the oligarchy, and extended the dominions of 
 Acragas as far as the N. coast, where he conquered Himera. Allied with 
 his son-in-law Gelon, the tyrant of Syracuse, he defeated the Carthaginians 
 at Himera 480 (p. 305), after which he devoted his attention to the im- 
 provement of Acragas. The town stood on a hill descending precipitously 
 on the N. side, and sloping gently towards the coast on the S., bounded 
 by the two rivers Acragas (3. Biagio ) and Hypsas (Drago). It consisted 
 of two parts: the Acropolis to the N., the W. part of which, where the 
 temple of Zeus Polieus stood, contains the modern town (1082 ft.), while 
 the E. part was called the Rock of Athene (1104 ft.); and the town proper 
 to the S., by the walls of which the ruined temples now lie. (The W. part 
 of the Acropolis has been sometimes erroneously identified with the Sicanian 
 town of Camicus.) The prisoners of war captured in 480 (of whom some of 
 the citizens possessed as many as 500 each) were compelled to excavate 
 the subterranean canals ; the temples were also erected at that period, and 
 a large fish-pond constructed. Thrasydaeus , the son of Theron (d. B.C. 473), 
 was very inferior to his father, and was soon expelled by the citizens, who 
 established a republican form of government, afterwards perfected by Em- 
 pedocles (d. about 424). The wealth and luxury of the city, which formed 
 the chief emporium of the trade with Carthage, now reached their climax. 
 Citizens like Antisthenes and Gellias (or Tellias) exercised a princely mu- 
 nificence. The population has been stated at 200,000, and even at 800,000, 
 but the latter figure, if not wholly erroneous, must include the slaves and 
 the inhabitants of the municipal territory. The city remained neutral dur- 
 ing the war between Athens and Syracuse. The Carthaginians soon after 
 overran the island, and their generals Himilco and Hannibal captured 
 the rich city of Acragas, which was betrayed by its own mercenaries and 
 deserted by its citizens. In 406 Himilco caused the city to be plundered 
 and the works of art to be sent to Carthage. The temples were burned 
 down (traces of the action of fire being still believed to be observable on 
 the temple of Juno). The city was afterwards partly rebuilt, but until 
 the time of Timoleon remained of little importance. That tyrant sent a 
 colony thither, and the town again prospered, at one time as an in- 
 dependent state, at another under the Carthaginian supremacy. In the 
 First Punic War the citizens, as the allies of Carthage, were in a position 
 to furnish the Carthaginians with a contingent of 25,000 men , and in 
 262 the Romans besieged the city. The battle fought without the walls 
 was not decisive, but was so favourable to the Romans, that the Cartha- 
 ginians were compelled to withdraw their troops to Heraclea. The city 
 was then captured by the Romans , and shortly after retaken by the 
 Carthaginian general Carthalo. In the Second Punic War the Carthagin- 
 ians maintained themselves longest in this part of Sicily , and Acragas 
 came into the possession of the Romans only through the treachery of 
 the Numidians. Thenceforward the town (Agrigentum) was a place of 
 little importance. The Saracens took possession of it in 828, and it 
 became a rival of Palermo, being chiefly colonised by the Berbers. In 
 1086 the town was taken , and a well-endowed bishopric founded, by 
 Roger I., and "St. Gerlando became the first bishop. 
 
 In order to visit the ruins, we quit the town by the Porta del 
 Ponte, the E. gate, and ascend past the suppressed Capuchin 
 monastery of S. Vito to the *Bock of Athene (1151 ft.), or Rupe 
 Atenea (PI. 2). It has been supposed that a temple of Athene once 
 stood at the top, which has evidently been levelled by human 
 agency, hut the most recent investigations show this to be very 
 doubtful. According to a local tradition, the depression between 
 the town and the rock was artificially formed by Empedocles to 
 
Temple of Concord. GIRGENTI. 
 
 31. Route. 291 
 
 admit of the passage of the N. wind (the ‘Tramontana’) and thus 
 dispel the malaria. The view in every direction is magnificent, 
 particularly by evening light. The ancient town-wall crossed the 
 Rock of Athene, but no traces of this part of it are preserved. On 
 the E. slope of the rock (689 ft.) are the fragments of a small 
 Greek temple ‘in antis’, said to have been dedicated to *Ceres and 
 Proserpine , afterwards converted into the Norman church of S. 
 Biagio. At the foot of the rock is the Fontana dei Greci, the mouth 
 of an ancient conduit 4^2 M. in length, which supplied Girgenti 
 with water. 
 
 We next visit the so-called **Temple of Juno Lacinia (390 ft.), 
 magnificently situated at the S.E. corner of the town-wall , which 
 is said to have contained the painting of Juno executed by Zeuxis 
 from the five most beautiful virgins of Acragas as models. There 
 is, however, no doubt that the temple of Juno Lacinia for which 
 this famous work was executed was that on the Lacinian promon- 
 tory in Calabria. The temple is a peripteros-hexastylos with thirty- 
 four columns of the best period of the Doric style (5th cent. 
 B.C.). The columns have twenty flutes, and their height is five 
 times their diameter. Earthquakes have here completed the work 
 of destruction : sixteen pillars only are left standing ; those on the 
 S. and E. sides have been disintegrated by exposure to the Sirocco. 
 In front of the pronaos of the temple are two narrow terraces. To 
 the W. an ancient cistern. — On the S. side part of the old town- 
 wall, consisting of huge masses of rock , is still preserved (indi- 
 cated on the Plan by the thick red line). The approach , a few 
 minutes to theN. of the temple, by which the descent to the Fiume 
 S. Biagio is still made, is ancient. 
 
 The so-called **Temple of Concord, farther to the W., is one of 
 the best-preserved ancient temples in existence , as it was con- 
 verted in the middle ages into a church of S. Gregorio delle Rape 
 (‘of the turnips’). The arched openings in the wall of the cella 
 belong to that period. The temple is a peripteros-hexastylos, 
 later than that of Juno Lacinia, but also erected before the decline 
 of the Doric style. Its thirty-four columns with the architrave 
 and frontons are still standing. The incisions for beams are al- 
 most all of later origin. Staircases in the corners of the wall 
 of the cella ascend to the summit. 
 
 On the left of the road, between this and the next temple, on 
 this side of the white wall, is the entrance to an early Christian 
 catacomb , called Grotta de J Frangapani , the centre of which is 
 formed by a large circular room with several rows of loculi in the 
 walls. A second story, lying deeper in the rock, has been made 
 partially accessible. The oldest part of the catacomb appears to 
 date from the 2nd century. It is doubtful whether the numerous 
 tombs cut in the rocks adjoining this catacomb are of Christian 
 origin. 
 
292 Route 31. 
 
 GIRGENTI. 
 
 Temple of Zeus , 
 
 Not far from the Temple of Concord are the ruins of the so- 
 called *Temple of Hercules, a peripteros-hexastylos of thirty-eight 
 columns. Small fragments of the entablature show that it was a 
 hypaethral temple. The back part of the cella consists of three 
 adjacent rooms. The temple was restored during the Roman 
 period. A statue of HSsculapius, found here, is now in the museum 
 at Palermo. The temple is said to have contained the famous paint- 
 ing of Alcmene by Zeuxis. From it Yerres attempted to steal the 
 statue of Hercules by night, but his workmen were driven away by 
 the pious citizens. 
 
 Adjoining the temple is the so-called Porta Aurea , the town- 
 gate towards the harbour, by which the Romans entered the city 
 in 210. Roads to Porto Empedocle and the Molo lead through 
 this gate. 
 
 To the left, outside the Porta Aurea, is the so-called *Tomb of 
 Theron , which, like the temple of Castor and Pollux and the Ora- 
 torium of Phalaris, is of the later Greek, or perhaps of the Roman 
 period. In a house between the Tomb of Theron and the con- 
 fluence of the Acragas and Hypsas, where the army of the Romans 
 was posted during the siege, are preserved fragments of an edifice 
 which appears to have been a ‘templum in antis’, perhaps the 
 Temple of JEsculapius , containing the celebrated statue of Apollo 
 by Myron, which is generally believed to have once stood here. 
 
 To the N. of the Porta Aurea lie the ruins of the **Temple of 
 Zeus, which was never completed. This vast structure, which has 
 been extolled by Polybius and described by Diodorus, was erected 
 in the 5th cent. B.C. It was a pseudo-peripteros-hypaethros with 
 thirty-seven or thirty-eight huge half-columns, seven at each end 
 (perhaps only six at the W. end), and fourteen on each side, each 
 20 ft. in circumference, with flutings broad enough to admit of a 
 man standing in each. The flat backs of the columns formed a 
 series of pilasters. The entrance has not been definitely deter- 
 mined, but traces of steps are believed to have been found at the 
 W. end. Within the walls of the cella, although uncertain where, 
 stood the colossal Telamones or Atlantes, one of which has been re- 
 constructed, and measures 25 ft. in height. They are supposed to 
 have been placed either in front of the pilasters, or above them as 
 bearers of the entablature. In the tympanum of the E. side (or ac- 
 cording to some authorities, in the metopae) was represented the 
 contest of the gods with the giants, on the W. side the conquest 
 of Troy. Entire portions of the side-walls have fallen outwardly, 
 and now lie with the same relative disposition of their parts as 
 when erect. The notches and grooves were either for fitting the 
 stones into each other, or for raising them to their places. Down 
 to 1401 a considerable part of the temple was still in existence, but 
 it has been gradually removed, and in recent times was laid under 
 contribution to aid in the construction of the Molo of Girgenti. 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 GIRGENTI. 
 
 31. Route. 293 
 
 Near this temple M. Cavallari has caused four Doric columns of 
 a temple to he re-erected , which is commonly called that of Castor 
 and Pollux , though without sufficient ground. Fragments of the 
 entablature bear distinct traces of stucco and colouring. It was a 
 peripteros - hexastylos of thirty -four columns. Near it are the 
 substructions of other ancient buildings. Fine view towards the 
 N. from the brink of the so-called piscina (see below). 
 
 Approximate Dimensions of the temples in English feet: — 
 
 
 Ceres 
 
 Jun. Lac. 
 
 Concord 
 
 Hercul. 
 
 Zeus 
 
 Cast. 
 & Pol. 
 
 JZscul. 
 
 Length incl. steps 
 
 90 
 
 134 
 
 138 
 
 241 
 
 363 
 
 Ill 
 
 - 
 
 Breadth . . . 
 
 40 
 
 64 
 
 64i( 2 
 
 90 
 
 182 
 
 51 
 
 40 
 
 Length of cella 
 
 - 
 
 91 
 
 94 
 
 156 
 
 302 
 
 79 
 
 25 
 
 Breadth of cella 
 
 - 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 45 
 
 68 
 
 181(2 
 
 - 
 
 Height of columns 
 with capitals . 
 
 - 
 
 21 
 
 22i( 2 
 
 33 
 
 55 
 
 21 
 
 - 
 
 Diameter of co- 
 lumns . . . 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 41(2 
 
 7 
 
 143(4 
 
 33| 4 
 
 - 
 
 Intercolumnia . 
 
 - 
 
 5i I 2 
 
 5i| 2 
 
 73| 4 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 Height of entabla- 
 ture .... 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 H 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 On the other side of the valley, which is said to have once 
 been occupied by the fish-pond ( piscina ) mentioned by Diodorus, 
 is a garden containing remains of what is styled the Temple of 
 Vulcan , whence a fine view of the temples opposite is obtained. 
 Of the spring of oil mentioned by Pliny no trace has been found. 
 The Hippodrome probably lay to the N. of the temple of Vulcan. 
 Remains of the celebrated Cloacae • of Phaeax still exist in the 
 Piscina. — In the S. part of the old town, about V 2 M. from the 
 Porta Aurea, lies the Norman church of 8, Nicola , surrounded 
 with pine-trees (tolerable osteria, with rooms). Adjacent is the 
 so-called Oratorium of Phalaris , originally a Hellenic sanctuary, 
 and afterwards converted into a Norman chapel. Fine panorama 
 from the front of it. The adjoining Panitteri garden contains the 
 Corinthian entablature of an ancient circular building, and remains 
 of statues. 
 
 The loftily situated Cathedral (1082 ft.), on the N. side of the 
 modern town, begun in the 14th cent., now presents a combination 
 of almost every architectural style. The best part is the unfinished 
 campanile, which commands an admirable view. The interior is 
 modernised. It contains a celebrated Marble Sarcophagus with re- 
 presentations in relief of the myth of Hippolytus (small fee to the 
 sacristan) . 
 
294 Route 31. 
 
 GIRGENTI. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 On one side Hippolytus hunting and in the act of slaying a hoar. On 
 one end Phsedra pining for love, behind her the nurse who unveils her} 
 before her young girls playing on the guitar*, Cupid discharges his shafts 
 from beneath, which Phsedra appears to ward off with her left hand. On 
 the other side the nurse divulges to Hippolytus the love of his step-mother ; 
 he turns sorrowfully aside. On the fourth side Hippolytus in a recumbent 
 position } behind him the sea-monster. The first and fourth sides are in- 
 ferior to the others. The whole is probably a copy, executed during the 
 Roman period, from a fine ancient work. 
 
 An acoustic peculiarity in the cathedral is noteworthy. A person 
 standing on the steps of the high-altar can distinguish every word spoken 
 on the threshold of the principal W. entrance , though the distance is 
 90 ft. — In the N. transept, to the left, is a Madonna by Guido Reni. 
 
 The Cathedral Archives (entered from the cathedral; keeper, 
 Canon Lauricella) contain numerous documents of the Norman 
 period of Sicilian history ; a collection of Sicilian popular songs of 
 1680; a fine ancient vase from a tomb at Girgenti; and paintings 
 by P. Novelli (p. 250). 
 
 From the cathedral we proceed to the neighbouring church of 
 S. Maria dei Greci (closed, custodian */ 2 fr.), which contains frag- 
 ments of the Temple of Jupiter Polieus. It was a peripteros- 
 hexastylos, but its dimensions are unknown. Its remains are the 
 most ancient in Girgenti. 
 
 The Museum , under the supervision of Cav. Picone, contains 
 a few vases , coins, and fragments of marbles. — The Biblioteca 
 Lucchesiana , near the cathedral and in the same street, was found- 
 ed in the 18th cent, by Bishop Lucchesi, afterwards Archbishop of 
 Palermo, and is now the property of the town. 
 
 The most interesting mediaeval structure is the portal of San 
 Giorgio . — Near the Church del Purgatorio is the entrance to the 
 old ‘Catacombs’, or subterranean quarries below the present town. 
 
 The^Passeggiata , below the Rupe Atenea , where a band plays 
 three times a week, in the evening in summer, and from 12 to 1 
 in winter, commands a charming view. In clear weather the island 
 of Pantelleria is visible shortly before sunset. 
 
 To the N. of Girgenti, 7 M. distant (donkey 2-3 fr.), and 3 M. to the 
 W. of the Palermo road, rises the small mud-volcano of Maccaluba, a hill 
 138 ft. in height (859 ft. above the sea), consisting of clay and limestone. 
 It is covered with a number of small cones 2-3 ft. high , from the fissures 
 of which hydrogen is emitted with considerable noise. Mud and stones 
 are occasionally hurled into the air to a great height. This excursion 
 is recommended to the notice of the scientific, especially in the rainy 
 season. 
 
 A visit to the Sulphur Mines in the environs of Girgenti is also 
 interesting. Visitors with letters of introduction are received with great 
 civility. 
 
 32. From Palermo and Girgenti to Catania. 
 
 This forms the shortest and easiest route to the E. coast. The dis- 
 tance from Palermo to Catania is 188 M., and that from Girgenti to Ca- 
 tania 117 M. — From Palermo to Caldare , 77 M., railway in b l /z hrs. ; 
 from Girgenti to Caldare , 6 M., in 25 min.*, from Caldare to Canicatti , 
 17 M., diligence in 372 hrs.} from Canicatti to Catania , 93 M., railway in 
 67? hrs. — The whole journey from Palermo to Catania thus occupies 
 
S. CATERINA. 
 
 32. Route. 295 
 
 15‘/-2 hrs. (fares 30 fr. 25, 25 fr. 85, 18 fr. 65 c.); from Girgenti IOV 2 hrs. 
 (fares 22 fr. 10, 15 fr. 95, 11 fr. 55 c.). Through-tickets are issued. — The 
 opening of the railway between Caldare and Canicatti, which is to take 
 place in the autumn of 1880, will make the journey considerably shorter. 
 
 [The new junction-line from Roccapciluniba via Vallelunga to S. Cate- 
 rina will also be opened for traffic in the course of 1880 81 (with the ex- 
 ception of the Marianopoli Tunnel, see p. 288), and will greatly facilitate 
 communication between Palermo and the E. coast.] 
 
 From Palermo and Girgenti to Caldare , see R. 30. The dili- 
 gence starts 1/2 hr. after the arrival of the trains. The road ascends 
 in windings across a well-cultivated district to Le Grotte , the an- 
 cient Erbessus , whence the Romans derived their supplies of pro- 
 visions while besieging Agrigentum in 262, a poor place with 
 8000 inhab., situated in the midst of the sulphur-mining district. 
 In 2^2 h rs - from Caldare we reach — 
 
 Racalmuto ( Albergo Centrale , with trattoria), a beautifully sit- 
 uated town with 12,000 inhab., long notorious as a haunt of bri- 
 gands, hut rapidly improving. — We now traverse a high -lying, 
 windy plain, and in 2 hrs. more reach — 
 
 Canicatti {Alb. Venezia , poor), a town with 21,900 inhab., sit- 
 uated on a slight eminence, and a station on the railway from Cam- 
 pobello (Licata, see p. 299) to Catania. The Mount Calvary near 
 the station commands a beautiful view. 
 
 The Train for Catania starts about 20 min. after the arrival of 
 the diligence. — The first station is (6 M.) Serradifalco , a small 
 town from which Domenico lo Faso Pietrasanta, Duca di Serradifalco 
 (d. 1863) , the editor of the ‘Antichita della Sicilia’, derived his 
 title. 14 M. S. Cataldo , named after St. Cataldus of Tarentum, 
 with 13,600 inhabitants, with extensive sulphur-mines near it. 
 
 18 M. Caltanissetta ( Albergo della Ferrovia , at the station, 
 very unpretending ; Concordia , Italia , both tolerable , with trat- 
 torie; *Cafe near the cathedral), a provincial capital with 27,200 
 inhabitants. A hand plays in the evening in the piazza in front 
 of the Cathedral (S. Michele), which contains a few paintings of 
 the later Sicilian school. At the S. end of the town is the Giardino 
 Pubblico , which commands a striking view of the surrounding 
 mountains and valleys, especially towards the E. 
 
 Diligence daily from Caltanissetta by Pietraperzia , Barrafranca , and 
 Mazzarino to Terranova (p. 300). 
 
 About 2 M. to the E. of Caltanissetta lies the monastery of Badia di 
 S. Spirito , a fine example of the Norman style, erected by Roger I. 
 About 2 M. farther is a mud-volcano, resembling the Maccaluba (p. 294). 
 
 22 1 / 2 M. S. Caterina; station at Xirbi, 3 M. from the miserable 
 little town. S. Caterina is the junction for the new railway to 
 Roccapalumba (see p. 288). 
 
 26 M. Imera , beyond which the line crosses the Fiume Salso 
 (Himera Meridionalis). 31 1/2 M. Villarosa , a pleasant-looking town, 
 with valuable sulphur-mines in the vicinity. The train now enters 
 a mountainous region, and ascends in windings, across viaducts, 
 and through tunnels. It then threads the tortuous ravine between 
 
296 Route 32. 
 
 CASTROGIOVANNI. 
 
 From Palermo 
 
 Calascibetta (p. 296) and Castrogiovanni , affording glimpses of 
 these places high overhead. Parts of the line traverse very unstable 
 ground, and the cuttings have had to be provided with strong 
 vaulted roofs. 
 
 38V2 M. Castrogiovanni. An omnibus (fare iy 4 fr.) ascends 
 in 3 / 4 hr. from the station to the town. On the rocks to the left 
 of the entrance lies a Roman altar. Castrogiovanni ( Locanda alia 
 Stella , well spoken of), the Arabic Kasr-Yanni , a corruption of 
 Enna , is charmingly situated on the level summit of a hill 
 (2605 ft.), surrounded with cliffs in the form of a horse-shoe, and 
 open towards the E. Pop. 15,200. 
 
 Cicero has described Enna , and Livy terms it ‘inexpugnabilis’. With 
 this mountain the myths of the most ancient inhabitants were intim- 
 ately connected, and this was the principal scene of the worship of the 
 Demeter-Cora of the aborigines. The fertility of the soil is inferior to 
 what it was in ancient times , when dense forests , brooks, and lakes 
 converted this district into a luxuriant garden, where the hounds, it 
 is said, lost the scent of their game amid the fragrance of the flowers, 
 and the fields yielded a hundred-fold. 
 
 Enna or Henna is said to have been founded by Syracuse in 664, 
 and shared the fortunes of its mother-city. In 402 it fell by treachery 
 into the hands of Dionysius I. ; Agathocles also possessed himself of the 
 town; in the First Punic War it was captured by the Carthaginians, and 
 finally was betrayed to the Romans. When the slaves under Ennus had 
 thrown themselves into Enna the Romans only regained possession of the 
 place after a fierce struggle. The siege lasted for two years (133-132), 
 and to this day Roman missiles are found at the approach to Castrogio- 
 vanni where the ascent is most gradual. The besieged were reduced 
 by famine rather than by force of arms. In 837 the Saracens in vain 
 endeavoured to storm the town , to which the inhabitants of the whole 
 surrounding district had fled for refuge. In 859 Abbas-ibn-Fahdl gained 
 possession of the fortress through treachery, a prisoner having introduced 
 the Arabs into the town by means of a tunnel on the N. side. The booty 
 was enormous. Some of the women were sent as slaves as far as Bagdad. 
 In 1087 the Normans took the town. In the middle ages it was again 
 partially fortified. 
 
 The main street ascends through the town to the ruins of the 
 Castle , a quadrangular structure with sixteen towers and one en- 
 trance only, built by Frederick II., and situated on precipitous 
 rocks. The outside walls and the towers now alone remain. The 
 *View from the platform of the highest tower is one of the 
 finest in Sicily, as we stand at the central point of the island 
 (Enna, the ‘umbilicus’ of Sicily). Towards the E. itowers the 
 pyramid of /Etna; to the N. run two mountain - chains, ramifi- 
 cations of the Nebrodian Mts. ; towards the N.N.E. rises Monte 
 Artesino (3914 ft.), beyond the hill on which Calascibetta lies 
 (1555 ft.). On the E. prolongation of the latter lie Leonforte and 
 Agira; between the two, more in the background, Troina (p. 297). 
 Farther to the E. is Centuripe. To the N.N.W., on a precipitous 
 ridge between Monte Artesino and the Madonian Mts., are Petralia 
 Soprana and Gangi. To the N.W. S. Calogero, near Termini, is 
 visible ; to the W. the Pizzo di Cammarata, Catania, and the sea, 
 and to the S. the Herman Mts., Licata, and the sea again. 
 
to Catania. 
 
 CENTURIPE. 
 
 32. Route. 297 
 
 A walk round the castle affords a series of beautiful views. — 
 Not a vestige is now left of the celebrated temples of Demeter 
 (Ceres) and Proserpine. The former is supposed to have stood where 
 the ruins of the castle are situated, and the latter on the Monte 
 Salvo , near the convent of the Padri Riformati. — Another fine 
 view is enjoyed from a terrace adjoining the Convento S. Fran- 
 cesco in the market-place. 
 
 As we continue our journey by railway, we enjoy a beautiful 
 retrospect of the two rocky nests of Calascibetta and Castrogiovanni. 
 — 45 M. Leonforte , prettily situated on a hill to the left. The 
 train now enters the valley of the Dittaino ( Chrysas ). 
 
 51 M. Assaro Valguarnera , the ancient Assorus , a Sikelian 
 town. 54^2 M. Raddusa. 
 
 59^2 M. Agira, formely S. Filippo d'Argirb. The town lies 
 on a hill (2132 ft.), about 4y 2 M. to the N. of the station. It is 
 one of the most ancient of the Sikelian cities (Agyrium). The 
 historian Diodorus gives an account of this his native town, and 
 relates how Hercules visited it during his wanderings with Iolaus 
 and was worshipped here. It appears from this that a Phoenician 
 colony existed here at a remote period. Timoleon colonised the 
 town in 339 and built an agora, temple, and handsome theatre, of 
 which no traces remain. St. Philip, whose festival is on 1st May, 
 has superseded Hercules as the tutelary genius of the place. Fine 
 marble is found in the vicinity. 
 
 About 8 M. to the E. of Agira, in the valley of the Gagliano , lies Regal- 
 buto , the commandant of which, Montaner di Sosa, in 1800, lured the 
 French under the Count of Brienne into an ambuscade, so that 300 French 
 knights, -I Cavalieri della Morte’, were captured or slain. High above 
 Regalbuto lies Troina (3651 ft.), the loftiest of the larger towns of Sicily 
 (10,700 inhab.). This was one of the first towns of which the Normans 
 gained possession in 1062. Here in 1063, Roger de Hauteville, with his 
 heroic wife Giuditta (Judith of Evroult) and 300 warriors, defeated the 
 rebellious inhabitants and 5000 Saracens. The bishopric founded here 
 was transferred to Messina in 1087. The Basilian monastery was founded 
 by Roger. In the Matrice S. Maria traces of the ancient Norman structure 
 are distinguishable. 
 
 66 M. Catenanuova-Centuripe. On the hill to the left, 5 M. 
 from the station , and rising abruptly above the valley of the 
 Simeto , is situated Centuripe, or, as it was called until recently, 
 Centorbi [Alb ergo della Pace , in the piazza, very poor), with 8400 
 inhabitants. Magnificent view of J^tna. In ancient times the 
 situation of Centuripae was compared with that of Eryx. During 
 the Roman period this was an important place. In 1233 it was 
 destroyed by Frederick II. on account of its disaffection, and the 
 population removed to Augusta (p. 343). Remains of a few Roman 
 buildings are preserved. Numerous vases, terracottas, coins, and 
 cut stones have been found in the neighbourhood. Antonio Came- 
 rano possesses a collection of gems and terracottas. Between the 
 town and station are some sulphur-mines. An introduction to the 
 Sindaco is desirable. 
 
298 Route 32. 
 
 CALTAGIRONE. 
 
 The train still traverses the valley of the Dittaino for a short 
 time. A picturesque view is obtained of Centuripe on the hill to 
 the left, and of JE tna farther on. 69 M. Muglia , 73 M. Sferro . 
 A view is now obtained, to the right, of the Piano di Catania which 
 begins here. Beyond (76 M.) Gerbini the train crosses the Simeto , 
 which receives the Dittaino a little to the S. 86 M. Motta S. 
 Anastasia; the town, with a castle on a precipitous basaltic cone, 
 is D /2 M. to the N. 92 M. Bicocca , where the line unites with 
 that from Syracuse to Catania. 
 
 94 M. Catania, see p. 330. 
 
 From Castrogiovanni to Catania by Caltagirone. 
 
 From Castrogiovanni to Caltagirone, 30 M. The bridle-path, passing 
 numerous grottoes and caverns, descends to the S. In 2 hrs. the Lago Per- 
 gusa is reached, the fabled locality whence Pluto carried off Proserpine. 
 Of the shady and lofty trees, the fragrant flowers on the banks of the lake 
 covered with swans, and the ‘perpetuum ver 1 of Ovid not a symptom 
 remains. The lake, with its clear, dark blue water, presents a pleasant 
 appearance in spring only. At other times, like the neighbouring Stagni- 
 cello , it is a dirty pond, used by the inhabitants for steeping their flax. 
 
 From the lake to Piazza a ride of 13 M. Before reaching Piazza we 
 join the carriage-road which leads from Caltanissetta (p. 295) by Pietraperzia 
 (1463 ft.) and Barrafranca to (39 M.) Piazza. 
 
 Piazza Armerina (Albergo del Sole), Sicil. Ghiazza , ig a town with 19,400 
 inhabitants. We follow the Terranova road towards the S. to S. Cono , 
 where it divides, one branch descending to the right to Terranova, the 
 other ascending to the left by S. Michele to (13 M.) — 
 
 Caltagirone (* Albergo Centrale ), regarded as the most civilised provincial 
 town in Sicily (27,900 inhab.). Although 2172 ft. above the sea-level, it is 
 well-built and possesses a fine promenade and market-place, whence a 
 lofty flight of steps ascends to the old castle. The aristocracy of the 
 place is zealous in promoting public education. Pottery is the staple 
 commodity , and the traveller may purchase very characteristic, well-exe- 
 cuted figures of Sicilians and Calabrians, in their national costumes. The 
 town commands a magnificent view in every direction. 
 
 From Caltagirone diligence to Yalsavoia in 9 hrs. (31 M. ; see p. 342). 
 On the mountain-range to the right lie the towns of Grammichele , Mineo , 
 the ancient Minae , founded by Ducetius, and taken by the Saracens in 840, 
 and Militello. Near Favarotta the road passes the famous Lacus Palicorum 
 (Lago de 1 Palici ), which is generally 490 ft. in circumference and 13 ft. 
 deep in the middle. In dry seasons it sometimes disappears entirely. Two 
 apertures ( fratres Palici ) in the centre emit carbonic acid gas with such 
 force that the water is forced upwards to a height of 2 ft., and the whole 
 surface is agitated as if boiling. Birds are suffocated in attempting to fly 
 across the lake, and horses and oxen experience difficulty in breathing as 
 soon as they enter the water. The ancients regarded the spot as sacred 
 and the peculiar resort of the gods. The Dii Palici were believed to be 
 sons of Zeus and the nymph Thalia. A sumptuous temple was accordingly 
 erected here, to which the pious flocked from all quarters, but every vestige 
 of it has now disappeared. Fugitive slaves found an asylum in this temple. 
 An oath sworn by the Dii Palici was deemed peculiarly solemn. At no great 
 distance from this spot Ducetius founded the town of Palica , which has 
 also left no trace of its existence. The name , however, may still be re- 
 cognised in Patagonia , a small mediaeval town, once the property of the 
 naval hero Roger Loria. Below Palagonia the road ascends to the Fondaco 
 Tre Fontane; to the right lies Scordia , which yields the best oranges in 
 Sicily. The road then proceeds to the left of the Biviere di Lentini , run- 
 ning parallel with the Fiume Gurnalunga , and unites with the road from 
 Catania to Syracuse. 
 
299 
 
 33. From Girgenti to Syracuse by Palma, Licata, 
 Terranova, Modica (Vald’Ispica), and Palazzolo, 
 
 From Girgenti direct to Syracuse the traveller may either select the 
 coast-route which we are about to describe, or take the steamer which 
 leaves Porto Empedocle once weekly (Sat. afternoon; see p. 272); embar- 
 cation or landing 1 fr. 
 
 The coast-route requires 472-5 days: 1st: Palma, 13 M. (or Licata, 
 247*2 M.); 2nd: Terranova, 28 M. (Yittoria 34 M.) ; 3rd: Modica, 34 M. 
 (Palazzolo 34 M.); 4th: Palazzolo, 17 M. ; 5th: Syracuse, 28 M. — From 
 Vittoria a carriage - road and diligence -communication to Syracuse, by 
 Ragusa, Modica, and Noto, 79 M. Also from Palazzolo diligence to Syra- 
 cuse, 28 M. Private conveyances are more easily procured at Vittoria 
 and Modica than at Palazzolo. In order to avoid a long and fatiguing 
 ride, as well as an unattractive part of the route, the traveller should if 
 possible avail himself of the steamer from Girgenti to Terranova. Tra- 
 vellers staying at Syracuse may thence visit the most interesting parts of 
 this district (Palazzolo, Val 1 dlspica, etc.) in 3 days, without undertaking 
 the above route. 
 
 The road from Girgenti to Palma descends from the Acropolis 
 into the ancient city, intersects the valley of the 8. Biagio , and 
 ascends to the table-land, where, on a height (1217 ft.) to the left, 
 is situated Favara (16,200 inhab.), with a picturesque chateau of 
 the Chiaramonte of the 14th century. On the summit of a hill 
 (1942 ft.) farther to the left rises Naro (10,700 inhab.), also pos- 
 sessing a castle of the Chiaramonte family. On the S.W. side of 
 the town are several small catacombs of Christian origin. Consi- 
 gliere Riolo possesses a small collection of Greek and Roman anti- 
 quities. Traversing pasture-land, within a few miles from the sea, 
 which is concealed by a low chain of hills, we soon enter the fer- 
 tile valley of — 
 
 13 M. Palma di Montechiaro , an unattractive town with 14,100 
 inhab., where a halt is seldom made unless for the night. 
 
 Beyond Palma the road leads through a beautiful valley with 
 gigantic almond-trees (yielding the largest almonds in Sicily), to 
 Licata, on the Fiume Salso , the ancient Himera Meridionalis. 
 
 24!/ 2 M. Licata (Alb. Imera , new; Alb. Centrale; La Bella 
 Sicilia ), with 17,200 inhab., occupies the site of the town which, 
 after the destruction of Gela by the Mamertines about the year 280, 
 the Tyrant Phintias of Acragas erected and named after himself. It 
 lies at the base of the hill of Poggio di S. Angelo , named Exvop.os 
 by the Greeks. 
 
 The place was an ancient Phoenician-Carthaginian fortification, garri- 
 soned by the Carthaginians during their war with Agathocles in 311, 
 whilst the latter was posted on the opposite side of the river. Here in 
 256 Regulus, before his expedition to Africa, vanquished the Carthaginian 
 fleet in one of the greatest naval battles on record , in which not fewer 
 than 300,000 men were engaged. Carthalo, favoured by a storm, destroyed 
 a large fleet of Roman transports on this coast in 249. 
 
 Licata (Alicata), the chief trading town on the S. coast of 
 Sicily, exports sulphur extensively. — A railway from Licata to 
 Campobello and Canicatti (p. 295) is in course of construction ; 
 comp. p. 295, 
 
300 Route 33. 
 
 TERRANOYA. 
 
 From Girgenti 
 
 The journey from Licata to Terranova (17M.) may also he made 
 by boat, for which about 25 fr. is charged. The road, traversing a 
 sterile district, at one place skirts the coast, at another is separated 
 from it by hills. As far as the chateau of Falconara , a modern re- 
 sidence of Baron Bordonaro, wheat-fields are traversed, and the road 
 is bordered with large aloes. High above Falconara rises the small 
 town of Butera (1319 ft.), which was besieged by the Saracens 
 in 853 for five months before it succumbed, and which they re- 
 tained down to 1089. The Prince of Butera was the chief of the 
 Sicilian grandees. The next cultivated tract is reached near Ter- 
 ranova, the Campi Geloi of Yirgil. The plain here is chiefly planted 
 with cotton. The height on the right immediately before Terranova 
 is reached (Capo Soprano) was the ancient Necropolis, where nu- 
 merous vases have recently been found. 
 
 41 y 2 M. Terranova (Casa Mobigliata kept by Luigi da Mantia , 
 Strada Marina, near the Piazza del Duomo ; near it, a Restaurant , 
 the tariff of which is to be seen at the Casa Mobigliata), a sea- 
 port with 16,400 inhab., founded by the Emp. Frederick II., and 
 situated on a hill, is intersected by the long Corso from W. to S. 
 It contains little to interest the traveller. Sign. Carlo Navarra pos- 
 sesses a collection of fine ancient vases found in the neighbour- 
 hood, to which he kindly admits visitors. 
 
 In and near Terranova are the remains of Gela , where the dra- 
 matist ^Eschylus died, B.C. 456. 
 
 Gela, founded in 689 by a Dorian colony under Antiphemus of Rhodes 
 and Entimus of Crete, so rapidly attained to prosperity that in 582 it was 
 itself in a position to send forth a colony to found Acragas. After a 
 period of aristocratic government, Hippocrates obtained the supreme 
 power. Under his rule Gela rose to the zenith of its prosperity (498- 
 491). His successor Gelon transferred the seat of government of the 
 Deinomenides to Syracuse, carrying with him one-half of the population 
 of Gela. The remainder he left under the rule of his brother Hiero. 
 In 405 Gela was captured and destroyed by the Carthaginians under Ha- 
 milcar. The description given by Diodorus (xiii.) proves that the town 
 lay to the E. of the river Gela, on the same site as the modern Terranova. 
 The remains of a Doric temple are still standing about M. to the E. of 
 the town (Piazza del Molino a Yen to); and the river is 300 paces beyond 
 them. This is popularly supposed to have been the temple of Apollo, 
 whose celebrated statue was sent by Hamilcar to Tyre, where it was found 
 by Alexander the Great. Timoleon re-erected the town and peopled it 
 with colonists. Agathocles subsequently caused 5000 of the inhabitants 
 to be put to the sword , and the Mamertines destroyed the town about 
 B.C. 282. Since that period it has disappeared from the pages of history. 
 
 From Terranova to Palazzolo. The direct road leads by (13 M.) Bis- 
 cari and (11 M.) Chiaramonte , two small towns containing nothing worthy 
 of note. As the road , moreover, is bad , most travellers will prefer the 
 circuit by Modica , for the sake of seeing the Val d'lspica (see p. 302). 
 
 From Terranova to Yittoria (mule 5 fr., besides food for 
 the attendant). The route at first traverses the plain of Terra- 
 nova and then leads between low, monotonous hills, covered with 
 pasture-land and fan-palms. When within 6-8 M. of Yittoria we 
 begin to pass vineyards and groves of olives, carobs , and al- 
 mond-trees. The road remains near the coast, till the rivers 
 
to Syracuse. VITTORIA. 33. Route. 301 
 
 Gela and Durillo have been crossed, and afterwards joins the high 
 road to — 
 
 58 M. Vittoria ( Albergo di Michele Santonocito , with trattoria; 
 Locanda delV TJnione ; Caffe Galbo , good wine), a town with about 
 19,100 inhabitants. 
 
 The archaeologist is recommended to take the route from Vittoria to 
 Modica by Scoglieti, the port of Vittoria, passing the site of the ancient 
 Camarina (19 M.). Camarina was founded by Syracuse in 599, and destroyed 
 in 553 for attempting to assert its independence, but was re-erected 
 by Hippocrates of Gela in 492 after the battle of the Helorus (Tellaro or 
 Abisso). Gelon again depopulated the town in 484 and transplanted its in- 
 habitants to Syracuse, but it was colonised a second time by Gela in 461. 
 In 405 Dionysius on his retreat compelled the inhabitants to follow him, 
 and the town was destroyed by the Carthaginians. In 339 it was re-colonised 
 by Timoleon, but soon afterwards fell into the hands of the Romans. In A.D. 
 853 it was entirely destroyed by Abbas-ibn-Fahdl. Camarina was about 
 5 M. in circumference, and lay to the E. of the river Camarana (ancient 
 Hipparis ), at the point where the chapel of the Madonna di Camarana 
 now stands on a sandhill, 100 ft. in height. 
 
 From Camarina we proceed to (5V2 M.) S. Croce (poor inn), and 
 (11 M.) Scicli ( Loc . del Carmine ; Loc. de 1 Carceri\ a town with 11,400 
 inhabitants. From Scicli to Modica diligence daily, 1 fr. j from Modica 
 to Noto, see p. 303. 
 
 From Vittoria to Modica (and beyond it) diligence daily, 
 except Sundays, fare 5 fr. 40 c. (carriage 17-20 fr.). The road 
 leads by — 
 
 62 M. C6miso , a miserable country -town with 17,900 in- 
 habitants. The famous fountain of Diana , the water of which 
 refused to mingle with wine when drawn by women of impure 
 character, was situated here. Beyond Comiso the road, bordered 
 with large carob-trees, ascends the hill through shadeless fields. 
 Descending to the valley, we perceive on the left — 
 
 75 M. Ragusa (poor inns, the best at Ragusa Inferiore), 
 a country-town with 30,300 inhab., most romantically situated, 
 probably the ancient Hybla Heraea. It consists of Ragusa Supe- 
 riore and Inferiore, each possessing its own administration, post- 
 office, etc. The whole of the environs belong to Baron Arezzo 
 di Donnafugata, who possesses a cotton-factory here. The neigh- 
 bouring rocks contain numerous grottoes. Count Bernardo Cabrera 
 (d. 1423), an adventurer who boldly attempted to possess him- 
 self of the crown of Sicily, is interred in the church of the 
 Capuchins. 
 
 84y 2 M. Modica {^Locanda Bella Italia, with trattoria, R. D^fr. ; 
 Locanda of Maestro Giorgio , near the Sotto-Prefettura ; Locanda 
 Nuova , etc.), with 34,700 inhab., the capital of the ancient 
 county of that name, lies in a rocky valley, consisting of two 
 ravines which unite in the town. The height between the val- 
 leys affords a survey of the three arms of the town , which 
 itself contains nothing worthy of mention. 
 
 From Modica by the Val d’Ispica to Palazzolo, a jour- 
 
302 Route 33. 
 
 PALAZZOLO. 
 
 From Giryenti 
 
 ney of one day (mule 7 fr., and */2 fr. for the attendant; provi- 
 sions necessary), beginning at sunrise. It is not necessary, as the 
 guides sometimes assert, to return from the Yal d’Ispica to Modica 
 in order to proceed to Palazzolo ; nor could that circuit be easily 
 accomplished in a single day. The road from Modica to Spaccaforno 
 (p. 303) is quitted beyond the road which descends to Scicli, and 
 we proceed to the left by a very rough road to the (6 M.) inter- 
 esting and picturesque *Val or Cava d’Ispica , a rocky ravine 6 M. 
 in length, in the limestone rock of which subterranean dwellings 
 and tombs have been discovered. 
 
 Sicily contains an extraordinarily large number of rock -tombs, or, 
 as they are called near Palazzolo, Ddieri. Tombs of this kind have been 
 found on the W. side of the island at Caltabelotta, Siculiana, and Raffadale, 
 and on the S.E. around Monte Lauro; also to the N. of Syracuse as far as 
 a point beyond Cape S. Croce, and at Maletto and Bronte to the W. of 
 .Etna. They may perhaps be attributed to the Sicanians. At Sparano , a 
 spot between Noto and Palazzolo , a Druidical relic , a kind of Celtic 
 dolmen (or, as others believe, a d'd’kog), has been discovered. The grottoes 
 of the Val cllspica are the most numerous and present the greatest ^variety. 
 Some of them were used as habitations at a later date. They either con- 
 sist of different stories, connected in the interior by circular apertures, 
 or of single chambers , the entrances to which in the rock are almost 
 invariably at least the height of a man above the ground. Rings hewn 
 in stone which are seen here probably served some purpose of domestic 
 economy. As most of the grottoes still contain graves, it is probable that 
 this formed the Necropolis of an ancient town, which lay upon the neigh- 
 bouring plateau. Others believe that the caverns are the relics of a very 
 ancient town of rock-dwellers. Numerous inscriptions prove that they 
 were used as a burial-place by the Christians in the 4th century. 
 
 At the N. E. outlet of the valley rises the so-called Castello 
 d’Ispica , a rock completely honeycombed by grottoes. Other 
 famous grottoes are the Spelonca Grossa , Grotta del Corvo , and 
 del Vento. About 10 min. from the entrance, halfway up the 
 hill on the left, is a house where wine may be procured. Near 
 it a rocky path ascends to the bridle-path to — 
 
 Palazzolo Acreide ( *Locanda d’ Italia, Yia Garibaldi 60, with 
 trattoria, small; Locanda Centrale ), one of the most interesting 
 towns of Sicily, with 10,700 inhab. The custodian Don Paolo 
 Monelli (fee 2-3 fr.) keeps the keys of the theatre, etc., and shows 
 the chief objects of interest in 4-5 hrs. Those who begin the walk 
 at daybreak may proceed the same day by diligence to Syracuse. 
 
 Acrae (Arabic el-Akrat , afterwards Placeolum , the Balensul of 
 Edrisi, now Palazzolo ) was founded by the Syracusans in B.C. 664, 
 and formed part of their territory until Syracuse itself was con- 
 quered byMarcellus. The town apparently escaped destruction down 
 to the time of the Saracenic wars. The Acropolis and the older part 
 of the town lay on the hill which rises above the modern town, and 
 were accessible from the E. only. The top affords a fine view in 
 every direction. The approach from the E. was protected by latomi®. 
 Tombs of all periods have been discovered here, some being of Greek 
 origin with reliefs, others of the early Christian period. Several slabs 
 
to Syracuse. 
 
 NOTO. 
 
 33. Route. 303 
 
 of stone, with Greek inscriptions, have recently been excavated. We 
 may also visit the so-called Tempio Ferale , some water-conduits, 
 and a small Theatre , looking to the N., whence the small town 
 of Buscemi is visible on a hill above a deep ravine. The theatre is 
 of late Greek origin, and contains twelve tiers of seats for 600 spec- 
 tators. Adjacent to it is the Odeon , or, according to others, a bath- 
 establishment. To the S. of the Acropolis rises the Monte Pineta, 
 with numerous mortuary chambers (so-called Ddieri, p. 302). — In 
 the Contrada dei Santicelli , a valley l*/ 2 M. to the S. of Pineta, 
 are the curious bas-reliefs, unfortunately mutilated, of the 1 San - 
 tonV . They appear to have pertained to a burial-place, and 
 on most of them the figure of a goddess (supposed to be Cybele) 
 may be distinguished. Not far from this spot is an extensive 
 burial-ground, the Acrocoro detto della Torre , where some hundreds 
 of sarcophagi have been opened. Many of them contained well 
 preserved skulls. From E. to W. the skeletons of women were 
 found to have been interred, from N. to S. those of men. — 
 The collection of ancient vases, etc. of Baron Judica (Palazzo Ju- 
 dica) , who superintended the excavations on the Acropolis, 
 is in a deplorably neglected condition, and, like that of the Cure 
 Bonelli, is interesting to the scientific only. 
 
 From Palazzolo to Syracuse, 28 M. — Diligence daily about 
 10 a.m., via Floridia. (Another good road leads by Canicat- 
 tini, a place of bad reputation.) The road traverses monoto- 
 nous fields, sterile land, and clumps of wood (di Madredonna and 
 Giambra). The wood of Bauli , to the E., is said to be still 
 infested by wolves. A little beyond Monte Grosse , the first post- 
 station, Syracuse becomes visible in the distance. The road leads 
 through the small town of S. Paolo , and then through Floridia. 
 The towns to the left are Cassaro and Ferla. Farther to the N. is 
 Sortino , on an eminence. About 4 M. below Floridia, on a height 
 to the left, lies Belvedere , adjoining which are the ruins of Eu- 
 ryalus , the westernmost fort of the Epipolse of Syracuse (p. 344). 
 
 From Modica to Syracuse by Noto. 
 
 The diligence-road to Noto traverses an uninteresting district. 11 M. 
 Spaccaforno (Locanda del S.S. Sacramento, very unpretending; Caffe Vic- 
 toria, the host of the cafe acts a guide to the Val dTspica, p. 302, but is 
 by no means well informed). — 15 M. Rosolini , possibly on the site of the 
 Syracusan colony of Casmenae , founded B.C. 644. 
 
 24 M. Noto ( Yittoria , with a good trattoria; Aquila d'Oro , opposite the Do- 
 minican monastery, to the right), a pleasant and wealthy town with 16,500 
 inhab., contains handsome palaces of the provincial aristocracy. The present 
 town was founded in 1703, 5 M. from the site of an earlier one, which 
 was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693. Of the older Noto the ruins are 
 still visible. — About 4 M. to the S. of Noto, between the rivers Falconara 
 (Asinarus) and Tellaro ( Helorus ), stands La Pizzuta , a fragment of a Greek 
 column, about 30 ft. in height. It is said to be a remnant of the monument 
 erected by the Syracusans in the bed of the Asinarus after the sanguinary 
 defeat of the Athenians under Nicias (July, 413). 
 
 An excursion may be made from Noto by a carriage-road to (15 M.) 
 
304 Route 34. 
 
 HIMERA. 
 
 From Palermo 
 
 Pacchino, and the rugged promontory of Passero ( Pachynum), with its islands, 
 harbours ( Porto cTUlisse, Porto Palo) y tunny-fisheries (tonnare), and the re- 
 mains of the ancient city of Helorus on the left bank of the river, now called 
 Stampaci. In ancient times the Via Helorina led from Helorus to Syracuse. 
 
 From Noto the road to Syracuse leads to (2772 M. from Modica) Avola 
 (12,300 inhab.), where almond-trees and the sugar-cane flourish, skirts the 
 plain of the coast, and crosses the river Cassibile (ancient Cacyparis ), on the 
 banks of which Demosthenes and 6000 Athenians sustained a defeat in 413. 
 To the right is seen the Great Harbour, to the left the remains of the columns 
 of the Olympieium. The road skirts the right side of the harbour. 
 
 44 1 |«2 M. Syracuse , see p. 344. 
 
 34. From Palermo to Messina by the Coast. 
 
 172 M. Railway to Cerda, 28 M., in l 3 /4 hr. ; thence by Diligence (Vet- 
 tura Corriera) daily in 31 hrs. to Messina (in the reverse direction in 36 hrs.). 
 The hours of departure vary, being sometimes in the morning and some- 
 times in the evening. The longest halt on the way is not half-an-hour. 
 From Cerda to Cefalu 3 hrs. ; from Cefalu to Castel Tusa hrs. ; from 
 Castel Tusa to S. Stefano 2 hrs. 35 min. (in the reverse direction 1 hr. 
 10 min.); from S. Stefano to S. Agata 3 3 / 4 hrs.; from S. Agata to Gioiosa 
 41/4 hrs. (in the reverse direction 3 hr. 55 min.) ; from Gioiosa to Patti 
 1 hr. 50 min. (reverse, 1 hr. 20 min.); from Patti to Barcellona 4 hrs. 
 25 min. (reverse, 4 hrs. 55 min.), from Barcelona to Archi , the station 
 for Milazzo, 1 hr. 5 min. (reverse, 55 min.); from Archi to Gesso 2 hrs. 
 25 min. (reverse, 2 hrs. 50 min.) ; from Gesso to Messina l 3 /4 hr. (reverse, 
 2 V 2 hrs.). — This route is one of the most beautiful in Sicily, but tra- 
 velling so far by diligence is fatiguing. 
 
 Steamers between Palermo and Messina three times a week : Society 
 Florio twice direct in 13 hrs., starting from Palermo on Mondays and 
 Wednesdays at 5 p.m., and arriving at Messina on Tuesdays and Thurs- 
 days at 6 a. m. (from Messina on Mon. 6 p.m., and Sat. 5 p.m., arrival 
 at Palermo on Tues. and Sun. at 6a.m.); and once indirectly, leaving 
 Palermo on Fridays at 6 a. m., reaching Cefalu at 9 and leaving at 11, 
 leaving S. Stefano at 12.30 p.m., Capo d’Orlando at 4, Patti at 6.30, and 
 reaching Milazzo at 10; leaving Milazzo again on Saturdays at 4 a.m., 
 and reaching Messina at 8 a.m. (From Messina on Wed. at 5 a.m., 
 reaching Milazzo at 8.20; from Milazzo at 9.20, reaching Patti at 11.20; from 
 Patti at noon, reaching Capo d’Orlando at 11.40 p.m., S. Stefano at 5, 
 Cefalu at 7.40, and Palermo at midnight.) 
 
 ^The indirect steamboat voyage may be combined with the diligence 
 journey so as to allow time to see Cefalu and Milazzo. The first and last 
 parts of the route may also be accomplished by carriage. 
 
 From Palermo to Cerda , see pp. 286-288. The first part of the 
 route from Cerda to Cefalu is bleak and treeless, and, as its ap- 
 pearance indicates, is rendered unhealthy by malaria. The road 
 crosses the valley of the Fiume Torto , and soon reaches Bonfor - 
 neiio, two solitary farm-houses. 
 
 The houses on the left stand on the ruins of a Doric temple 
 which has not yet been excavated. On the height to the right 
 lay Himera, the westernmost town of the Greeks on the N. coast 
 of Sicily , the birthplace (about 630) of Stesichorus , originally 
 called Tisias, the perfecter of the Greek chorus, who is said to 
 have protected his native town against the tyranny of Phalaris. If 
 we ascend the abrupt hill, overgrown with sumach , we reach a 
 table-land which gradually slopes downward from the small town 
 of La Signora. To the E. flows the Himera Septentrionalis, or 
 
to Messina. 
 
 CEFALU. 
 
 34. Route. 305 
 
 Fiume Grande ; on the W. a small valley, in which tombs have been 
 discovered, separates the town from the plateau. To the N. the 
 hills descend precipitously to the plain of the coast ; on this side 
 the town was defended by massive walls. 
 
 Himera was founded by Zanclseans in 648. One of the greatest battles 
 ever fought by the Greeks took place on behalf of the citizens in 480, when 
 Gelon and Theron surprised Hamilcar, the Carthaginian, while he was 
 besieging the town, and annihilated his army. He himself is said to 
 have sought a voluntary death in the sacrificial fire, in order to appease 
 the wrath of the gods. The battle was probably earlier than that of Sala- 
 mis, though Greek historians have stated that both were fought on the 
 same day. In 409 Hannibal , son of Gisgon and grandson of Hamilcar, 
 captured the town and razed it to the ground, after most of the in- 
 habitants had abandoned it by night, and since that period no attempt 
 has been made to re-erect it. 
 
 The Fiume Grande , with the Fiume Salso , bisects the is- 
 land, and has frequently formed a political frontier (under the 
 Romans and under Frederick II.). Beyond the Fiume Grande 
 the straight and monotonous road traverses a malarious district, in 
 which it is dangerous to indulge in sleep. To the right are obtain- 
 ed beautiful glimpses of the fissured valleys of the Madonian 
 Mts. near Roccella. Farther up in the valley traversed by the Fiu- 
 me lies Collesano , a town which possesses remnants of walls 
 and buildings of an unknown period. Above the mountains enclos- 
 ing the valley tower the Monte S. Salvatore (6266 ft.) and the 
 Rizzo Antenna (6480 ft.), the highest peaks of the Nebrode. 
 Below Lascari and Gratteri , and lastly below Gibilmanna , i.e . 
 the ‘manna-mountain’, the road leads through a beautiful, cul- 
 tivated district to Cefalu. In the vicinity considerable quan- 
 tities of manna are obtained from the exudations of the manna- 
 tree (Fraxinus ornus). 
 
 22y 2 M. (from Cerda) Cefalh ( Albergo dt Italia, dirty, with 
 trattoria, in the Piazza del Duomo ; Luigi Pinterero is a good guide), 
 the ancient Cephalcedium , a thriving but dirty town, infested by 
 beggars, with 11,200 inhab., who are engaged, in trading, sea- 
 faring, and the sardine fishery, lies at the base of a barren and 
 precipitous promontory on which the ancient town stood. The 
 limestone rock, composed almost entirely of fossils, which towers 
 above the town, bears the fragments of a mediaeval Castle and the 
 remains of a polygonal structure. To the latter a vault was added 
 during the Roman period, and it was afterwards converted into a 
 Christian place of worship. The summit, on which there are remains 
 of a Norman castle, commands a magnificent survey of the N. coast 
 and the lofty mountains as far as Palermo. 
 
 Cephalcedium is mentioned in history for the first time in 397 in 
 connection with the wars between Dionysius I. and Carthage, and oc- 
 casionally during the Roman period. In 837 the Arabs besieged it un- 
 successfully, but captured it in 858. In 1129 when King Roger was returning 
 from Naples, and his vessel was in danger of shipwreck , he is said to 
 have vowed to erect a church to Christ and the Apostles on the spot 
 where he should be permitted to land. The vessel was driven ashore at 
 Cefalu, and he accordingly began to build a handsome cathedral here. 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 20 
 
306 Route 34. 
 
 MISTRETTA. 
 
 From Palermo 
 
 The charter of foundation, dating from 1145 , and still preserved in the 
 episcopal archives, contains, however, no allusion to the above story. 
 
 The ^Cathedral , a noble monument of Norman architecture, 
 lies to the W. at the foot of the promontory, and around it the 
 modern town has sprung up. The facade rests upon gigantic blocks 
 of hewn stone, which probably formed part of an earlier building. 
 Two imposing towers of four stories, connected by a colonnade, 
 flank the facade , recalling the huge towers of St. Etienne at Caen 
 erected by William the Conqueror. The walls of the colonnade were 
 covered with mosaics, now destroyed, in memory of King Roger 
 and of his successors who continued the building. The W. entrance 
 is coeval with the foundation. The portal is of unique construction. 
 The apses are decorated externally, but the outside is otherwise plain. 
 
 The church, built in the form of a Latin cross, possesses a nave, two 
 aisles, and three apses. Nave double the width of the aisles. Length 243, 
 width 92 ft. The pointed vaulting of the nave and aisles is supported by 
 fifteen columns of granite and one of cipollino. The Mosaics in the 
 tribune are the most ancient and perfect in Sicily, and most resemble those 
 preserved in the monasteries on Mt. Athos. The beautifully executed figure 
 of the Saviour was completed in 1148. A number of other figures, Mary 
 with four archangels, prophets and saints, appear from their selection to 
 have been the work of Greek artists. In the transepts once stood two of 
 the sarcophagi of porphyry which are now in the cathedral of Palermo, 
 and contain the relics of the emperors Henry VI. and Frederick II. 
 
 The fine * Cloisters adjoining the church resemble those at 
 Monreale, but are not so well preserved. 
 
 The heirs of the late Baron Mandralisca possess a small col- 
 lection of antiquities here, including almost all the objects of in- 
 terest found in the island of Lipari (p. 318). 
 
 32 M. Finale , on the Fiume di Pollina , the ancient Monalus. 
 The loftily situated little town of Pollina , 3 M. inland, is supposed 
 to be the ancient Apollonia , which Timoleon delivered from its 
 tyrant Lep tines. 
 
 40 M. Castel di Tusa. Near it, on an eminence to the E., 
 lay Halaesa or Alaesa , founded in 403 by the tyrant Archonides 
 of Herbita. The town was an important place under the Romans; 
 its ruins are 2 M. in circumference. It is skirted by the Alesus , 
 now Fiume di Pettineo. The road crosses this river, and then 
 the Fiume Reitano , in the valley of which, 9 M. inland, lies the 
 town of Mistretta (11,800 inhab.), the ancient Amestratus , a place 
 which has rapidly improved since 1860. 
 
 55V2 M. S. Stefano di Camastra (Locanda Marinaro, Strada 
 Vittoria 2, tolerable), with 4800 inhab., stands on an eminence 
 by the sea. From the W. side of the town there is a fine view of 
 the environs, the sea, and the valley below. Cheese made from 
 sheep’s milk (cacio cavallo) and wool are the staple products. 
 
 Between S. Stefano and S. Agata lies the Bosco di Caronia , 
 the largest forest in Sicily. The road crosses numerous brooks, 
 and is bordered by the myrtle, the mastix , and the cistus-rose. 
 It passes the harbour of Caronia (6 M. from S. Stefano), the 
 
to Messina. 
 
 PATTI. 
 
 34. Route. 307 
 
 Calacte (‘beautiful shore’), founded by Ducetius in 440, and then 
 crosses the Fiumara ofS. Fratello , or Furiano , which flows through 
 the midst of a perfect grove of oleanders. * 
 
 The town of S. Fratello (7700 inhab.) , 4^2 M. inland, is one of the 
 Lombard colonies which accompanied Adelaide of Monferrat, wife of 
 Roger I., to Sicily. Others established themselves at Piazza, Nicosia, Aidone, 
 Randazzo, Sperlinga, Capizzi, Maniace, etc. The Lombard dialect is still 
 spoken at S. Fratello, Piazza, Nicosia, and Aidone. Near S. Fratello is 
 the grotto of San Teodoro , containing many fossil bones of different species 
 of mammalia. 
 
 Farther on is Acqua Dolce , 11 M. from Caronia. 
 
 75 M. S. Agata is a small town with a tolerable inn (Strada dei 
 Medici, No. 45). The road crosses the beds of numerous torrents, 
 in the first of which, the Rosamarina , bordered by oleanders, 
 are the fragments of a Roman bridge. To the right lies S. Marco , 
 probably the ancient Aluntium , whence it is also called S. Marco 
 di Alunzio. The ruins of a mediaeval palace in the Fiumara 
 Zapulla are next passed. Between the mouth of this torrent and 
 Capo d’Orlando was fought, 4th July, 1299, the great naval battle 
 in which Frederick II. was defeated by the united fleets of Catalonia 
 and Anjou under Roger Loria. On the height to the right, facing 
 us , we observe the small town of Naso , where the silk-culture is 
 extensively carried on. The whole district resembles a luxuriant 
 orchard. As soon, however, as we pass — 
 
 84V 2 M. Capo d’Orlando, the extreme rocky point (305 ft.) 
 of which lies to the left of the road, the appearance of the 
 country is changed, and the mountains now rise abruptly from 
 the sea. Capo d’Orlando is 94 M. from Palermo, which is visible 
 from the end of the promontory in clear weather. The broad 
 Fiumara of Naso and the picturesque Fiumara of Brolo , with the 
 small town of that name, are next reached; then Piraino. The 
 traveller may proceed direct hence by Sorrentini to Patti, and thus 
 considerably shorten his journey. A high mountain must, how- 
 ever, be traversed (2608 ft.), while the coast-route by Capo Calava 
 is remarkably picturesque. 
 
 The road ascends from a valley to (94 M.) Gioiosa (Sicil. 
 Giujusa; 4800 inhab.) , winds at a great height above the sea 
 round the abrupt granite promontory of Capo Calavh , which it 
 penetrates by a short tunnel, and descends to the Marina of Patti, 
 whence it again ascends through an avenue of pepper-trees. 
 
 100 M. Patti ( Locanda of Antonino Arrigo , a small inn to 
 the left of the road ; Locanda Nuova , inferior), an episcopal 
 residence with 8600 inhab., and large monasteries, is unhealthy, 
 notwithstanding its fine situation on the hill. In the modernised 
 Cathedral is interred Adelasia, mother of King Roger, and widow 
 of Count Roger and of King Baldwin of Jerusalem. The wealthiest 
 family in this district is that of the barons of Sciacca , who 
 possess a beautiful chateau on the Scala , 3 M. to the N. of Patti. 
 To the same family belong the environs of Tyndaris. 
 
 20 * 
 
308 Route 34. 
 
 TYNDARIS. 
 
 From Palermo 
 
 About 6 M. from Patti, the road to Milazzo begins to ascend. 
 The promontory to the left with the Pizzo di Mongib (Monte Giove) 
 was once the site of the town of Tyndaris (road-side inn, closed 
 in winter). 
 
 Tyndaris , one of the latest Greek colonies in Sicily, was founded in 
 396 by Dionysius I. with Locrians and Peloponnesian Messenians. It soon 
 rose to prosperity, at an early period became allied to Timoleon, and 
 remained faithful to the Romans during the Punic wars. It was therefore 
 favoured by the Romans, and attained to great power and wealth. During 
 the Christian period it became the seat of a bishop. The exact date of 
 its destruction is unknown. Before the time of Pliny a small part of the 
 town was precipitated into the sea by a landslip. 
 
 The promontory, rising 918 ft. above the sea, consists of 
 granite, gneiss, and above these a stratum of limestone. The 
 summit is occupied by the church of the Madonna Nera. The 
 course of the old town- walls can still be traced. Remains of a 
 theatre and two mosaic pavements have been preserved. The 
 internal diameter of the theatre is 212 ft., orchestra 77 ft.; the 
 cavea is divided into nine cunei , and contains twenty-seven tiers 
 of seats. Several statues of Roman workmanship found here are 
 now in the museum of Palermo. (Key kept by the custodian 
 of the antiquities.) 
 
 Below the extremity of Capo Tindaro is the Stalactite Grotto 
 of Fata Donnavilla , popularly supposed to be haunted by a fairy 
 who kidnaps brides on their wedding-night, and to be identical 
 with the Fata (fairy) Morgana. The curious may reach the entrance 
 by being lowered over the cliff with ropes. 
 
 The fatigue of ascending the promontory is amply repaid by 
 the magnificent view it affords of the sea , Milazzo, the Lipari 
 Islands, the Neptunian Mts., and the Pizzo di Tripi with its ruins; 
 then, on the other side of a deep ‘fiumara’, Novara , on the slope 
 of the conical Rocca di Novara, where Abacaenum also once lay ; 
 and lastly ^Etna. 
 
 The road then descends to the bay of Olivieri , between Tyn- 
 daris and Milazzo. The fertile plain is traversed by a number 
 of torrents which frequently prove very destructive. The largest 
 of these are the Olivieri , Arangia , Crancotta , Saliea , and degV 
 Aranci , on which last are situated the sulphureous and chaly* 
 beate baths of Termini di Castro (well fitted up). We next reach 
 the wealthy towns of Barcellona (with sulphur - baths , much 
 frequented from May to September, when omnibuses run daily 
 to and from Messina , with the aid of which Milazzo and Tyndaris 
 may be visited) and Pozzo di Gotto. It was perhaps, in this neigh- 
 bourhood that Hiero of Syracuse defeated the Mamertines in 269, 
 but the Longanus, on which the battle took place, is supposed by 
 some authorities to be a river to the E. of Mylse. The road crosses 
 the fiumare Cantone , Landro , and S. Lucia. It then divides, the 
 branch to the right leading direct to Messina, and that to the left 
 through the vast vineyards of the Neapolitan ex-minister Cassisi 
 
to Messina. 
 
 MILAZZO. 
 
 34. Route. 309 
 
 to Milazzo. The Emp. Frederick II. once possessed an extensive 
 park for game here ; and it was here, according to Homer, that the 
 herds of Helios were pastured. 
 
 125 M. Milazzo ( Albergo fy Trattoria Stella d J Italia , Locanda 
 Villa Nuova , both in the main street), the ancient Mylae, a town 
 with 12,700 inhab., possesses a good harbour. The pinnacles of 
 the Castle , erected by Charles Y., restored in the 17th cent., and 
 now a prison, command a charming *View. (Visitors apply to a 
 sergeant to the right of the entrance.) 
 
 Mylae was founded before B.C. 716 by colonists from Messana-Zancle, 
 and remained subject to the Messenians, until conquered by the Athe- 
 nians in 427. In 394 the citizens of Naxos and Catania, who had been 
 banished by Dionysius, occupied Mylse for a short time, but were soon 
 expelled by the Messenians. Here in 260 Duilius gained for the Romans their 
 first naval victory, having by means of his boarding-bridges assimilated 
 the naval battle to a conflict on land. No ancient remains have been dis- 
 covered here, as in the middle ages Milazzo was frequently altered and 
 repeatedly besieged. The castle sustained sieges from the Due de Vivonne 
 in 1675 and during the Spanish war of succession. On 20th July, 1860, 
 Garibaldi drove the Neapolitan general Bosco back into the castle , and 
 compelled him to capitulate on condition of being allowed a free retreat. 
 
 A drive (2 fr.) as far as the lighthouse on the well-cultivated 
 promontory, commanding beautiful glimpses, through the foliage, 
 of the sea on both sides, is recommended. The lighthouse com- 
 mands a fine view. Extensive tunny-fisheries. — Boat with two 
 rowers from the tonnara to Tyndaris in 2-2f/ 2 hrs., 10-12 fr.; to 
 Capo Orlando in 4 hrs., 20 fr. 
 
 From Milazzo to Messina, 20^2 M. The road traverses the 
 plain of the coast to Spadafora. In the bay to the left the 
 fleet of Sextus Pompeius was annihilated by Agrippa. On the 
 heights to the right are S. Pietro (Sicil. Sampieri), Monforte , and 
 among the higher mountains, on a summit surrounded by pre- 
 cipitous cliffs, the small town of Rametta , in which the Christians 
 maintained themselves down to 965. From Spadafora the road 
 ascends to Divieto , Bavuso (Sicil. Bauso), and Gesso , where the 
 Saracens remained until a late period. The luxuriant fertility of 
 the fields soon diminishes, and we reach the zone of the heath 
 and grass which clothe the precipitous slopes of the Neptunian 
 Mts. Beautiful retrospect. The summit, the so-called *Telegrafo , 
 or Colle di San Rizzo (1722 ft.), commands a view of the strait 
 of Messina : to the left is the Faro, opposite to it Scilla in Calabria, 
 then on a projecting angle S. Giovanni, numerous villages, and 
 farther to the right Reggio. The forests of the lofty Aspromonte 
 occupy the extremity of the Calabrian peninsula. In front of the 
 spectator extends the sickle (Zancle) shaped harbour of Messina ; 
 the road descends to a profound and sinuous ravine. (The Abba- 
 diazza, see p. 316.) 
 
 145 M. (from Cerda) Messina, see below. 
 
310 
 
 35. Messina. 
 
 Arrival by Sea. Passengers are landed in small boats (tariff y 2 fr., 
 or with luggage 1 fr.) at the Scala di Marmo , in front of the Palazzo 
 Municipale (PI. F,3). Luggage is slightly scrutinised at the dogana by 
 officers of the municipal customs. Porter for ordinary luggage from the 
 Dogana to a hotel, 1 fr. 
 
 Hotels. La Vittoria (PI. a), Strada Garibaldi 66, R. from 272, L. 
 and A. D/2, B. D/2-5 fr., pension 12 fr. per day, omnibus to meet the trains ; 
 Hotel Bellevue, Strada Garibaldi 146, opposite the Theatre (PI. 20; E,3), 
 well spoken of, R. from 2, A. V2, L. 1/2, B. 1, D. 4, pens. 8 fr. ; Alb. Tri- 
 nacria, Strada Garibaldi 102, R. 2-5, L. <fc A. 1, B. 1, D. 3, pens. 7-10 fr. ; 
 some of the rooms in the last two hotels command a view of the harbour ; 
 Albergo di Venezia (Pl. b), Strada della Neve 7 and 11 (with depen- 
 dance, Hdtel de Geneve ), second class, R. 2-272, L. and A. 1 fr. (advisable 
 to ask charges). 
 
 Restaurants. *Caf6 Nuovo , on the ground-floor of the Teatro Vittorio 
 Emanuele, table d’hote at 5 o’cl. 3 fr. ; Venezia, see above. — Cafes. Best 
 ices at the Peloro , Corso Cavour, Piazza dell 1 Annunziata ; Caft Nuovo , 
 see above; Palestro , Via Garibaldi, not far from the Vittoria (‘mezza gra- 
 nita 1 15, ‘gelato 1 25 c.). — Beer at the Birreria Svizzera , Strada Garibaldi 
 219, 40 c. per bottle, 25 c. per half-bottle, Vienna beer 1 fr. or 50 c. (A 
 German skittle-club is established in the garden here. — Clubs with 
 reading, billiard, and other rooms are the Casino della Borsa and the 
 Gabinetto di Lettura , both in the Teatro Vittorio Emanuele. Introduction 
 by a member necessary in each case.) 
 
 Omnibuses traverse the town by the long streets running N. and S., 
 and also ply to the station; fare 20 c., half trip 15 c. 
 
 Cab Tariff. 
 
 Drive in the town, incl. quay . . 
 
 To the station 
 
 To the station at night 
 
 To the Campo Santo 
 
 To the Torre di Faro 
 
 First hour 
 
 Each additional hour 
 
 One horse 
 
 Two horses 
 
 single 
 
 return 
 
 single 
 
 return 
 
 — 50 
 
 85 
 
 1 — 
 
 1.50 
 
 - 70 
 
 1 — 
 
 1.50 
 
 2 — 
 
 1.30 
 
 2 — 
 
 2.30 
 
 3 — 
 
 1 .— 
 
 1.60 
 
 1.50 
 
 2- 
 
 5.— 
 
 6.50 
 
 6.50 
 
 10 
 
 1.80 
 
 — 
 
 2.50 
 
 — 
 
 1.10 
 
 — 
 
 1.60 
 
 — 
 
 Donkeys for hire opposite the Ospedale Civile (PI. 14), in the pro- 
 longation of the Corso Cavour, per day 5, half-day 3 fr. 
 
 Post Office (PI. 18 ; E,3) in the Palazzo della Provincia, Corso Cavour, 
 entered from the Str. S. Agostino, a side-street. — Diligence Office (Messa- 
 gerie Postali Terrestri), Corso Cavour 148. — Telegraph Office (Pl. 21 ; 
 E,3), Piazza dell 1 Annunziata. 
 
 Baths. Sea Baths near the quay, well fitted up, 7*2 fr* — Mineral 
 Baths (sulphur) , Largo del Purgatorio 6 , first floor. Warm , Vapour , 
 and other baths, at the hydropathic establishment, Pal. Brunacini, Corso 
 Cavour, managed by Dr. Genovese. 
 
 Theatre. Teatro Vittorio Emanuele (Pl. 20), subsidised by some of 
 the richer citizens, good performances ; ‘platea’ 2 fr. 70, ‘posti distinti 1 
 4 fr. 50 c. 
 
 Railway to Catania and Syracuse , see RR. 37, 39. 
 
 Steamboats. Regular communication with all the harbours of Italy, 
 the East, and Malta. To Naples five or six times weekly, see R. 23. — 
 To Palermo three times weekly : Mon. and Sat. at 5 p.m. direct in about 
 12 hrs.; Wed. at 5 a.m. via Milazzo and other places on the N. coast (comp, 
 p. 304). — To Malta by Catania and Syracuse twice weekly (Tues. noon, 
 Sat. 11 p.m.). — To Lipari , see R. 36. — To Brindisi by Catania, etc., 
 on Thurs. at 11 p.m., in 272 days. — To the Piraeus (Athens) once weekly 
 (Tues. evening) via Catania. — Offices: Messageries Maritimes, on the 
 Marina or Corso Vitt. Emanuele 93; Societd Florio and Societd Rubattino , 
 Marina 132, opposite the Sanita. — To Reggio , see p. 316. 
 
 American Consul : Mr. Owen , Corso Cavour 375. — British Vice-Consul : 
 Mr. Rowlett , Corso Cavour 285. 
 
4 1 
 
 CMese principal! : 
 
 1. Thtomo E.E. 
 
 2 . SAndrea/AvelUno . . E.TT.2, 
 
 3 . Sjinruv ......... B. 4?. 
 
 4; . Sjlnruuvziata del Catalans E .4? 
 5. ■ deiTeaUrviy E.3. 
 
 6 . S^Franccsco d'Assisi/ , JE .2. 
 7 - S. Gioacchino 33.3. 
 
 8 . S.Grefforio . . , E.3.E 
 
 9 . SJHaddalena . . , . 32.5. 
 
 10 . S. Maria del Carmine E.E 
 
 .■ dei/a Seal a . . 13.2.3. 
 12 . SJViccold E.3.4. 
 
 E.E. 
 
 E.5. 
 
 i . 
 
 \Z. Fontana, del Montorsoiv 
 IE. Qsjjedale czvico 
 15 .Talazzo Bntnaccini 
 
 16. ,, 3Tionzeipale 
 
 17. „ Reale 
 
 18 Aosta 
 
 Yb.StatMvdi Gurr.d' Austria? 
 ZO.Teatro Vftt.JSmanueTes 
 21 .Telejralb . . . . 
 
 22 . 75 viversitic . 
 
 (JBxbUoteca,, Museo J 
 23 . Villa, GueZfimiet 3). 
 
 I COKTOMTC DI 
 
 MESSINA k iii 
 
 Scala. nel 1 : eoo.ooo 
 
Wagner fc Debes Xeipzig; 
 
History. MESSINA. 35. Route. 311 
 
 English Church, Via del Gran Priorato 11; service at 11.30 a.m. ; 
 chaplain, Rev. J. J. Varnier. 
 
 Photographs and Maps of Sicily sold by Welbatus , Via Garibaldi 103. — 
 Lithographer, E. Buhring. 
 
 The Climate of Messina is healthy, being neither cold in winter nor 
 oppressively hot in summer, but the constant current of air passing through 
 the strait renders it trying to consumptive or rheumatic persons. The 
 mean temperature is 66° Fahr. ; in spring 61°, summer 80°, autumn 69°, 
 winter 55°. The freezing-point is rarely reached. 
 
 The Fish of the strait, as well as the Mamertine Wine of the adjoining 
 hills, were famous in ancient times, and are still esteemed. 
 
 In fine weather one day at least should be devoted to Messina. The 
 town and environs present some excellent points of view, particularly 
 towards Calabria by evening light, while the morning passage to Reggio 
 affords a strikingly grand survey of Mt. ^Itna and the other mountains of 
 Sicily. The sights of the town itself are unimportant. 
 
 Messina, the chief commercial town of Sicily, with 70,300, or 
 including the adjoining 48 villages (casali) 118,000 inhab., the 
 seat of an appeal court, an archbishop, and a university, is situated 
 on the Faro or Stretto di Messina , and. is overshadowed by a range 
 of rugged rocky peaks. In grandeur of scenery it vies with 
 Palermo. The harbour, which is formed by a peninsula in the 
 shape of a sickle , is the busiest in Italy in point of steamboat 
 traffic, and is one of the best in the world. It is entered annually 
 •by upwards of 4000 large vessels , of an aggregate burden of 
 1,130,000 tons, of which about 1350 are steamers. 
 
 The town is on the whole well built, and has several handsome 
 streets. The animated harbour is flanked by the Marina , or Cor so 
 Vittorio Emanuele , with the monotonous Palazzata. Before the 
 earthquake of 1783 the houses were built on a uniform plan , but 
 they were afterwards only partially re-erected in the same manner. 
 Parallel to the Marina runs the Via Garibaldi, beyond which is the 
 Corso Cavour ,* and the Via dei Monasteri , still farther from the 
 quay, forms a fourth parallel street. The upper streets of the town, 
 and particularly the Yia Monasteri , afford charming glimpses of 
 the sea and the opposite coast of Calabria through the cross-streets. 
 
 Messina has experienced many vicissitudes. It was founded by 
 Cumaean pirates and Chalcidians under Perieres and Crataemenes in 732 
 on the site of a Sikelian town, which the inhabitants named Zancle (i. e. 
 sickle) from the peculiar form of the harbour, and it was governed by the 
 laws of Charondas. Here, as in other Sicilian towns, the conflicts of the 
 people with their rulers ended with the establishment of a tyranny. About 
 493, fugitives from Samos and Miletus, by the advice of Anaxilas of Rliegium, 
 took possession of the defenceless city. Anaxilas soon afterwards established 
 himself here, and emigrants from all quarters, chiefly Messenians from the 
 Peloponnesus, settled in the city and gave it the name of Messana. Anaxilas 
 maintained his supremacy throughout all the vicissitudes of the town until 
 his death in 477. His sons, however, retained possession of the supreme 
 power till 461 only, when the original constitution of the town was revived. 
 Messana participated in the wars against Ducetius, and subsequently took 
 the part of the Acragantines against Syracuse, with which it afterwards 
 united against Leontini and the Athenians. To the latter, however, it was 
 compelled to surrender in 427. In the great Athenian and Syracusan war 
 Messana remained neutral. It then engaged in a conflict with Dionysius, 
 but without decisive result owi T ' to th° disunion occasioned by party-spirit. 
 In 396 the town was taken an . n s Ay destroyed by the Carthaginian 
 
312 Route 35. 
 
 MESSINA. 
 
 History . 
 
 Himilco; a few only of the inhabitants effected their escape to the moun- 
 tains. Dionysius speedily rebuilt the town, whence he proceeded to conquer 
 the not far distant Rhegium. After a variety of changes the Carthaginians 
 gained possession of the place, but were expelled by Timoleon. In the 
 contests with Agathocles it again took the side of the Carthaginians. In 
 282 the Mamertines (‘sons of Mars 1 ), the mercenaries of Agathocles, after 
 their liberation by the Syracusans , treacherously possessed themselves 
 of the town and maintained it against Pyrrhus. Iliero II. of Syracuse 
 succeeded in reducing it. But the fruits of his victory on the Longanus 
 in 270 were reaped by Hannibal , who seized the castle of Messana. 
 Against him the Mamertines called in the aid of the Romans, and thus arose 
 the First Punic War. When it was invested by the Syracusans and Car- 
 thaginians, the siege was raised by Appius Claudius, and it thenceforth 
 became a Roman town, being afterwards regarded with especial favour by 
 its new masters, and even by Verres. In the war between Octavian and 
 Sextus Pompeius it was taken and plundered by the soldiers of the former. 
 Augustus then established a colony here , and Messina continued to be a 
 place of great importance, although not exercising so decisive an influence 
 on the fortunes of Sicily as Syracuse and Lilybseum. The Saracens took 
 the town in 842, and it subsequently became the first Norman conquest. 
 The Crusades, which did not leave Sicily unaffected, contributed to the 
 rapid increase of the prosperity of the place. In 1189, indeed, it suffered 
 from an attack of Richard Coeur de Lion, who with Philip Augustus wintered 
 here, but from that period also date the great privileges, which, down to 
 1678, rendered it an almost independent town and the head-quarters of the 
 national hatred of foreign rule. In 1282 it was in vain besieged by Charles 
 of Anjou. The bravery of its commandant Alaimo and the courage of the 
 Dina’s and Chiarenza’s at a critical time saved the town and the island. 
 The citizens of Messina have repeatedly evinced heroic constancy of cha- 
 racter. Towards the close of the 15th cent, the town enjoyed the utmost 
 prosperity, but its jealousy of Palermo eventually paved the way for its 
 downfall. In the 16th cent, the Emp. Charles V. showed great favour to 
 Messina, and presented it with gifts such as fell to the lot of few other 
 towns, in recognition of which a street was named and a statue erected 
 (p. 288) in honour of his son Don John of Austria on the return hither of 
 the victorious hero of Lepanto (1571) in his 24th year. But a quarrel 
 between the aristocratic families (Merli) and the democratic party (Malvizzi), 
 stimulated by the government which had long been jealous of the privi- 
 leges of the town, caused its ruin (1672-78). The Merli, at first victorious, 
 expelled the Spanish garrison, and defended themselves heroically against 
 an overwhelming force. To save their city from capture the senate sued for 
 the aid of Louis XIV., who sent an army and fleet to conquer the island. 
 In this, however, he was unsuccessful, notwithstanding the victory gained 
 by Duquesne over the united Spanish and Dutch fleets under De Ruyter. 
 In 1678 the French abandoned the place in an almost clandestine manner, 
 and the population was now reduced from 120,000 to a tenth of that 
 number. The town never recovered from these disasters, and was after- 
 wards kept in check by the now dismantled citadel erected at that period. 
 During the 18th cent. Messina was overtaken by two overwhelming cala- 
 mities — a fearful plague (1740) , of which 40,000 persons died, and an 
 earthquake (1783) which overthrew almost the whole town. (Messina 
 lies on the line of contact of the primary and secondary formations, on 
 which boundary earthquakes between iEtna and Vesuvius are always most 
 violent.) The severe bombardment of 3rd-7th Sept., 1848, also caused great 
 damage, and in 1854 the cholera carried off no fewer than 16,000 victims, 
 but at the present day the town is again in a prosperous condition. The 
 original town lay between the torrents of Portalegni and Boccetta, but 
 was extended under Charles V. towards the N. and S. The suburbs of 
 S. Leo on the N. and Zanera on the S. are now united with the town. 
 
 Owing to the numerous calamities which Messina has 
 sustained at the hand of man and from natural phenomena, it 
 contains fewer relics of antiquity than any other town in Sicily. 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 MESSINA. 
 
 35. Route. 313 
 
 The *Cathedral, or Matrice (PI. 1 ; E, 4 ), an edifice of the 
 Norman period, was begun in 1098, and completed under Roger II. 
 In 1254 it was damaged by a fire which broke out during the 
 obsequies of Conrad IY. In 1559 the spire of the campanile was 
 burned down, and in 1783 the campanile and the transept were 
 overthrown by the earthquake, so that little of the original build- 
 ing is now left. The form of the church is that of a Latin cross, 
 305 ft in length, and across the transepts 145 ft. in width. The 
 choir with its two towers was entirely rebuilt in 1865. The tasteful 
 entrance-facade dates from the 14th century. 
 
 Interior. Adjoining the main entrance is a statue of John the Baptist 
 by Gagini. The twenty-six granite columns which support the flat roof are 
 said to have once belonged to a temple of Neptune near the Faro (p. 316). 
 
 The High Altar , which is decorated richly, but in bad taste, is said 
 to have cost no less than 3,825,000 fr. in 1628. The receptacle in the interior 
 is believed by the faithful to contain the celebrated epistle of the Madonna 
 della Lettera, which the Virgin Mary is said to have sent to the citizens 
 by St. Paul in the year 42, and in honour of which great festivals are 
 still celebrated (3rd June). This, like several other documents, has been 
 proved to be a forgery of the well-known Constantine Lascaris (d. 1501). 
 — The sarcophagus by the wall of the choir, to the right near the high- 
 altar, is sacred to the memory of Emp. Conrad IV., whose remains were 
 burned. The sarcophagus on the opposite side, to the left, contains the 
 remains of Alphonso the Generous (d. 1458), and another those of Queen 
 Antonia, widow of Frederick III. of Arragon. — The Mosaics in the apse 
 (Christ with the Virgin, St. John, and the archangels Gabriel and Michael; 
 above, the altar of the Last Judgment, with Cherubim ; also a Madonna in 
 Trono on the left and St. John on the right) were executed during the 
 reign of Frederick II. and the archiepiscopate of Guidotto (d. 1333). 
 
 In the transept , on the left , are a Renaissance altar of 1530 , and a 
 figure of the Risen Christ, by Gagini; on the right is the interesting mo- 
 nument of the archbishop Guidotto de’’ Tabiati (d. 1333), by Gregorio da 
 Siena. — Two marble slabs in the nave, to the left by the organ, enume- 
 rate the privileges granted to the city by Henry VI. Above them was for- 
 merly a painting representing Henry VI. , his wife Constance , and their 
 son Frederick II. — The pedestal of the vessel for holy water, by the side- 
 entrance to the left, bears a Greek inscription, according to which it once 
 supported a votive offering to iEsculapius and Hygeia, the tutelary deities 
 of the town. 
 
 In the Piazza del Duomo (PI. E, 4), nearly opposite the 
 facade of the cathedral, is the Fountain of Fra Giov. Ang. Mon- 
 torsoli (PI. 13), a pupil of Michael Angelo, executed 1547-51, 
 with statues of the Nile , Ebro , Tiber , and the brook Camaro near 
 Messina on the margin of the principal basin , and richly decorated 
 with basreliefs. 
 
 In the small Piazza de’ Catalani, not far from the cathedral, is 
 S. Annunziata dei Catalani (PI. 4), the oldest Norman church at 
 Messina. A temple of Neptune, and afterwards a mosque, are said 
 once to have occupied the same site. Over the door is a Saracenic 
 inscription. The columns in the interior are antique. 
 
 Opposite the Montorsoli Fountain and the cathedral fa$hde is 
 the Yia dell’ Uniyersita, leading to the — 
 
 University (PI. 22; E, 4), which contains a Library with some 
 valuable MSS., a Natural History Collection , a few antiquities 
 
314 Route 35. 
 
 MESSINA. 
 
 Lighthouse. 
 
 from Taormina, and a small Picture Gallery. The gallery is 
 worthy of a visit, as it contains five fine works by Antonello da 
 Messina: two bishops , an ^Enthroned Madonna (1473), Angels, 
 and an Annunciation. (Admission daily, about noon ; we turn to 
 the right in the court and ascend the staircase on the right; at 
 the top we follow the passage in a straight direction; at the 
 end of it , in the Segretaria on the right, we find the custodian, 
 
 72 fr 0 
 
 In the Benedictine church of S. Maddalena [ PI. 9; E, 5) a 
 fearful struggle took place in Sept., 1848, between Messinians 
 and the invading Swiss troops. 
 
 At the corner of the Corso Cavour is the Palazzo Brunacini 
 (PL 15; E, 4), where a scene admirably described by Goethe took 
 place between that illustrious traveller and the intendant. 
 
 In the Corso Cavour, on the left, is S. Niccolb (Pl. 12; E, 4, 3), 
 containing a *Christ, over the high-altar, the masterpiece of the 
 painter Girol. Alibrando of Messina (1519). On the same side is 
 the Palazzo della Provincial containing the Post Office (Pl. 18). 
 On the right , farther on, is the small Piazza dell’ Annunziata, em- 
 bellished with a statue of Don John of Austria (Pl. 19), which 
 was erected by the Messinians in 1572 (p. 312). 
 
 Not far from the Boccetta is the church of S. Francesco d 1 Assisi 
 (Pl. 6; E, 2), erected in the 13th cent., behind the high-altar of 
 which is an antique sarcophagus with the Rape of Proserpine. — 
 The church of 8 . Gioacchino , in a side-street near the post-office, 
 contains a handsome wooden crucifix, and a painting by Scilla, 
 representing S. Hilarion in the arms of Death. In the sacristy 
 are some pictures by Duccari. 
 
 In the Via Garibaldi, adjoining an open space where a band 
 often plays on summer evenings , is situated the Palazzo Munici- 
 pale (Pl. 16; E, F, 3), erected by Giacomo Minutoli in 1806-29. 
 — The Teatro Vittorio Emanuele (Pl. 20) , opened in 1852 , is 
 adorned with sculptures in marble by Rosario Zagari, and is the 
 finest theatre in Sicily. 
 
 Pursuing the same direction, we next come to the public 
 gardens of La Flora , commonly known as the Villa (Pl. E, 2), 
 where a band often plays on summer evenings, and sometimes also 
 on winter afternoons. 
 
 The *Quay, with its brisk steamboat-traffic, affords a pleasant 
 walk. On the S. side is the Dogana (Pl. F, 5), on the site of a 
 palace once occupied by Emp. Frederick II. and other monarchs. 
 
 We may now visit the peninsula on the E. side of the harbour. 
 The Citadel (Pl. G, 4) here is now being taken down. Beyond it, on 
 the right, is the Protestant Cemetery. We next come to the large 
 Lighthouse ( Faro Grande ; Pl. H, 3), nearly 1 M. from the Dogana, 
 which commands a remarkably fine *View (custodian i/ 2 fr.). To 
 the W. lies the town with its sheltering mountains (the Antenna- 
 
Campo Santo. 
 
 MESSINA. 
 
 35. Route. 315 
 
 mare or Dinnamari , the highest peak on the left , 3707 ft. ; the 
 Monte Cicci on the right, 1995 ft.). To the E. are the mountains 
 of Calabria, which look wonderfully near in clear weather. We 
 may then return from the Lazaretto to Messina by boat (*/4 fr.). 
 
 The best survey of the town is obtained from the *Villa Guel- 
 fonia (PL 23 ; reached by ascending the side-street of S. Agostino, 
 which diverges from the Corso by the post-office, and turning to the 
 right at the top of it). It belongs to the advocate Sign. Santi De 
 Cola , who kindly admits visitors (small fee to porter on leaving). 
 This spot is said to have been once occupied by the castle of the 
 Mamertines, and the remains of the Norman stronghold of Mata - 
 grifone or Rocca Guelfonia are still to be seen here. 
 
 A still more extensive view is obtained from the dismantled 
 fort of *Castellaccio, situated high above the town to the W. (as- 
 cent a / 2 hr.). 
 
 At the S. end of the Corso Cavour we skirt the Torrente Portalegni to 
 the right (W.) ; after 3 min. turn to the left into the Via Alloro ; then 
 follow the Vico Lungo Arcipeschieri to the gate ; immediately beyond the 
 gate turn to the left, and after ten paces ascend by the steep, rain-worn 
 path to the right (comp. PI. D, 4; D, 3; C, 3). 
 
 This hill was fortified in ancient times, and again in 1550, 
 under Charles Y., but the works have recently been removed. The 
 view embraces the town, the strait, and the Calabrian Mts. 
 
 Farther to the S. rises Fort Gonzaga, erected in 1540, a simi- 
 lar point of view (comp. PI. C, 5 ; ascent 1/2 hr. ; turn to the right 
 at the end of the Corso Cavour, and after 150 paces, beyond a 
 fountain, cross the smaller bridge to the left). The hill between 
 Gonzaga and the town is the Mons Chalcidicus , on which Hiero II. 
 pitched his camp in 264, and where Charles of Anjou established 
 his headquarters at a later period. In 1861 Cialdini bombarded 
 the citadel from this point. 
 
 On an eminence 1 M. to the S. of the town, lies the new 
 *Campo Santo, which we reach by the Catania road. (Or , about 
 i/ 2 M. beyond the bridge over the Torrente Portalegni , we may 
 follow the Yia del Campo Santo to the right, which passes the back 
 of the cemetery; comp. PI. D, 6; cab, see p. 310.) The view from 
 this height is very striking. Handsome Ionic colonnades have 
 been erected here, and under them is interred the patriotic Sici- 
 lian historian La Farina , a zealous promoter of the union of 
 Sicily and Piedmont in 1860. At the top of the hill is a modern 
 church in the Gothic style. 
 
 Another fine point of view is the Monte dei Cappuccini to the 
 N. (PL D, E, 1 ; ascent of 10 min. from the end of the Yia Gari- 
 baldi, turning to the left beyond the Torrente Trapani). The hill 
 is now used as a drilling-ground. The best stand-point is near 
 the cross. 
 
 A pleasant view is also obtained from the Eremitaggio di Trapani , 
 reached by ascending the Torrente Trapani for 1 hr. 
 
316 Route 35. 
 
 MESSINA. 
 
 *Excursion to the Faro (7 l / 2 5 cab, see p. 310; bargain 
 
 necessary as to the stay to be made). The road skirts the base of 
 precipitous heights rising near the shore, passes the country-houses 
 al RingOj and leads to the suppressed Basilian monastery of Sal- 
 vatore dei Greci , which was founded by Roger I. on the promon- 
 tory of the harbour, but transferred hither in 1540. The view of 
 Calabria becomes more striking as the strait narrows. We next 
 pass the fishing-village of Pace and through the colonnade of the 
 church of La Grotta , which is said to occupy the site of a temple 
 of Diana. The two salt-lakes of Pantani are connected with the 
 sea by open channels. A famous temple of Neptune once stood here. 
 
 The fishing- village of Faro (Trattoria Peloro) , situated on the 
 promontory which forms the N.E. angle of the island of Sicily 
 ( Promontorium Pelorum ), sprang up at the beginning of the pre- 
 sent century, when the English constructed intrenchments here 
 in order to prevent the French under Murat from crossing to the 
 Sicilian coast. On the extremity of the promontory , i/ 2 M. from 
 the village, rises the Lighthouse , which should be ascended for 
 the sake of the view (custodian not always on the spot ; enquiry to 
 be made in the village). This is the narrowest part of the Strait 
 of Messina (3600 yds.). On a rock opposite, to the N.E., lies 
 Scilla; to the left of it is Bagnara; then the lofty Monte S. Elia, 
 surmounted by a small chapel. To the left below the promontory 
 glitters Palmi, beyond which is the bay of Gioja with the Capo 
 Vaticano stretching far out to the W. To the N. and N.W. are 
 the Lipari Islands and the open sea. 
 
 Charybdis, according to the legend of the Greek mariners, lay opposite 
 to Scylla, whence the well-known proverb; but the name is now be- 
 lieved to have been applied to the strong currents (rema, peGfxa) which 
 sweep round this coast on a change of tide. The principal of these are 
 off the village of Faro and near the small lighthouse at the extremity of 
 the ‘sickle 1 of Messina. The latter current is called the Garofalo (car- 
 nation) owing to its circular form. Into this species of whirlpool the 
 diver Cola Pesce of Catania precipitated himself during the reign of Fre- 
 derick II., an incident on which Schiller founded one of his ballads. 
 
 An Excursion from Messina to Scilla takes 6-7 hours. The direct 
 distance by sea is 11 M., and the passage occupies 172-272 hrs. according 
 to the state of the wind and tide. The castle of Scilla is worthy of a 
 visit (see p. 212). 
 
 A :;: Trip to Reggio (p. 220) is strongly recommended, especially in 
 the morning, when the Sicilian mountains and the majestic iEtna are 
 lighted by the sun. Besides the large steam-packets, which touch at 
 Reggio almost daily , local steamers ply twice daily, at 6.15 a. m. and 
 2 p. m.; single ticket, 1st cl. 3, 2nd cl. 2 fr.; embarcation 10 c. (large 
 steamers 50 c.). — Monte Elia , see p. 211; Aspromonte see p. 221. 
 
 The Telegrafo (p. 309), reached by carriage in 2 hrs. by the new 
 provincial road (PI. E, 1), is another fine point. Walkers or riders 
 (donkeys, see p. 310) effect a great saving by following the paths which 
 cut off the windings of the road. Beautiful view. — Walkers and riders 
 should return by S. Maria della Scala , or della Valle , commonly known 
 as L’Abbadiazza , the interesting ruins of a Norman nunnery. The W. 
 portal and other parts of the church, which was richly endowed by 
 William II. and Constance , date from the 12th century. When Peter 
 of Arragon and the licentious Matilda Alaimo-Scaletta returned to Messina, 
 
LIPARI ISLANDS. 
 
 36. Route. 31 7 
 
 which had just been relieved from the siege of Charles of Anjou, he was 
 received here by the jubilant Messinians and their brave commandant 
 Alaimo (2nd Oct. 1282). After the plague of 1347 the nuns removed to 
 the town, using the nunnery as a summer residence, but as this was pro- 
 hibited by the Council of Trent, the edifice fell to decay, and is now a 
 picturesque ruin with desolate surroundings. 
 
 If time permits, the traveller may proceed to the N. of the Telegrafo 
 to Castanea , a beautifully situated village on the W. slope of the Mte. 
 Cicci (1998 ft.), and may also ascend the latter hill itself (extensive view). 
 The direct route to the top of Mte. Cicci (2 1 /«i hrs.) ascends the Torrente 
 di Parcidiso , which crosses the Faro road and falls into the sea 2 l /-z M. to 
 the N. of Messina. The whole of this range of hills commands admirable 
 views in both directions : N. as far as Milazzo and the Lipari Islands, 
 and E. over the strait and Calabria. 
 
 36. The Lipari Islands. 
 
 Comp, the Map of Sicily. 
 
 A steamer starts from Messina on Tuesdays and Saturdays at midnight, 
 arriving at Lipari at 6 o’ cl. on the following morning , and returning 
 from Lipari at noon. The time that elapses between two steamers is 
 thus 31/2 or 41/2 days , which suffice for a visit to the islands of Lipari, 
 Volcano, and Stromboli. The only inn in Lipari is the Locanda Caravello ; 
 in the other islands accommodation must be obtained at private houses. 
 A visit to the Lipari Islands (costing about 60 fr. ; to Stromboli 50 fr. 
 more) is extremely interesting to the naturalist, as well as to the admirer 
 of scenery , and , irrespective of the varied historical associations and 
 legendary lore connected with them, will be remembered by the traveller 
 as one of the most pleasing parts of his Italian tour. 
 
 The Lipari Islands (JEoliae, Liparaeae, Vulcaniae, Hephaestiades), which 
 are of volcanic origin, consist of seven islands and ten islets, variously named 
 by the ancients. At an early period they supplied abundant food for the 
 poetic fancy of the Greeks, whose legends made these islands the abode 
 of AColus, ruler of the winds. Ulysses (Odyss. x.) is said to have visited 
 A£olus in the course of his wanderings. In B.C. 579, as the number of the 
 inhabitants had become greatly reduced , Pentathlus , a Heraclides, estab- 
 lished on the island a colony of Cnidians and Rhodians, who had been 
 unable^o maintain themselves in the S.W. angle of Sicily. The new 
 settlers cultivated the soil in common , and defended themselves bravely 
 against the attacks of the Etruscan pirates. 
 
 Lipara, which enjoyed the friendship of Syracuse, was plundered by 
 the Athenians. The islands afterwards suffered from the incursions of 
 the Carthaginians. In 260 the Roman admiral Cnseus Cornelius Scipio was 
 surrounded in the harbour of Lipara and taken prisoner by the Carthagi- 
 nians. The Romans sent a colony thither, but in Cicero’s time the islands 
 were only partially cultivated. This was possibly owing to the convulsions 
 of nature which must have occurred in B.C. 204, when the island of Vol- 
 canello was upheaved from beneath the sea. In the year B.C. 126 erup- 
 tions under water were also observed here, destroying vast numbers of 
 fish. In the middle ages the Saracens took possession of the islands, but 
 were expelled thence by the Normans in the 11th cent., and the Lipari 
 group now became united with Sicily. During the wars of the 14th cent, 
 between the Sicilian kings and the Anjous of Naples, the islands changed 
 hands according to the varying fortunes of the respective belligerents. 
 Alphonso the Generous annexed them to Naples, but Ferdinand the Catholic 
 united them finally with Sicily. In 1544 they were plundered by Haireddin 
 Barbarossa, and in 1783 suffered greatly from the earthquake. 
 
 Lipari, called Meligunis in the most ancient times, the 
 largest and most productive of the islands, is about lQ 1 ^ sq. M. 
 
318 Route 36. 
 
 LIPARI. 
 
 The Lipari 
 
 in area. The ancient town of the same name (Xtrcapa probably 
 signifies ‘the fertile’) lay on an isolated rock on the E. coast of 
 the island, where the fort is now situated, around which the 
 fertile slopes of cultivated land rise in the form of an amphi- 
 theatre towards Sant’ Angelo , the central mountain of the island, 
 extending in a spacious crescent between Monte Rosa (754 ft.) 
 on the N. and M. di Guardia (1214 ft.) on the S. In the centre 
 of the plain, between the fort and the ascent towards S. Angelo, 
 on the site of the new episcopal palace, were once situated 
 extensive ancient Baths , partially excavated at the beginning of 
 the present century, but again filled up by the Bishop Todaro, 
 in order that they might not attract visitors. In this vicinity 
 was situated the Necropolis , where Greek tombs are still found, 
 bearing inscriptions on the basaltic tuff-stone, some of which are 
 preserved in the seminary. The whole area is now called Diana , 
 from a temple to that goddess which once stood here. The best 
 collection of Liparian antiquities is now in the possession of the 
 heirs of Baron Mandralisca at Cefalit (p. 306). M. Torremuzza 
 enumerates twenty-three different coins of Lipari. Population of the 
 whole island 12,800. A bishop, with thirty-two canons, has since 
 1400 presided over the diocese, which was formerly united with 
 Patti. The secular administration is conducted by a delegate, 
 subordinate to the prefect of Messina. The town , erected 
 around the fort, is of modern origin. The cathedral and three 
 other churches are situated within the precincts of the castle. 
 The Cathedral and church of Addolorata contain pictures by 
 Alibrandi (b. at Messina in 1470). The sacristy of the former 
 commands a beautiful view towards the sea. Most of the private 
 dwellings within the castle are now hired by government for the 
 accommodation of several hundred manutengoli (accomplices) of 
 brigands who are confined there. The Marina Lung a, N. of the 
 castle, is occupied by fishermen only. In the vicinity is a warm 
 spring. To the S., by the landing-place of the steamboats, con- 
 tiguous to the church of Anima del Purgatorio , which abuts on 
 the sea, are situated the warehouses of the merchants who ex- 
 port the products of the island : pumice-stone, currants (passo- 
 line) grown on reed-trellises, sulphur, Malmsey wine, excellent figs, 
 etc. Oranges do not thrive on account of the scarcity of water. 
 For domestic purposes the rain is collected on the flat roofs. 
 
 The tour of the island occupies 6-8 hrs. (donkey and atten- 
 dant 6 fr.). We ride first to the hot springs of San Calogero 
 (6 M.), in a desolate valley opening towards the W. side of 
 the island, which issue with such force that they were formerly 
 used to turn a mill. Temperature about 126° Falir. Bath-house 
 about to be erected. We proceed thence to Le Stufe (also called 
 Bagno $ecco), the vapour-baths described by Diodorus Siculus, 
 where, with the aid of the guide, we may succeed in finding 
 
Islands. 
 
 VOLCANO. 
 
 36. Route. 319 
 
 some of the interesting fossils which abound here (leaves, wood 
 in lava, etc.). Monte Sant’ Angelo (1952 ft.) may next he ascended. 
 The extinct volcano, now overgrown with grass and broom, affords 
 the best survey of the town below, and the entire group of islands, 
 of which the spectator is nearly in the centre. A path descends 
 thence to Capo Castagna , the N. end of the island, passing the 
 Monte Chirica (1978 ft.), and traversing the Campo Bianco , 
 where pumice-stone is extensively excavated, being brought to 
 the surface by shafts, and dragged down to the coast (Baja della 
 Pumice) by a miserable path (a walk of % hr.) by men, women, 
 and children. From this point we return to the town. 
 
 Volcano ( Thermissa , Hiera , Vulcania , Therasia ), with its con- 
 stantly smoking crater (Sicil. La Fossa ), is entirely uncultivated 
 (area 8^2 sq. M.). A narrow isthmus connects it with the smaller 
 island of Volcanello , which according to Orosius (iv. 20), was 
 suddenly upheaved about the year B.C. 204, and has since retained 
 its original form. In order to visit the great crater , we proceed 
 by boat with two rowers (4-6 fr.) from Lipari in 1 hr. to the Porto 
 di Lev ante, the bay which separates Volcano from Volcanello, and 
 disembark near the sulphur-works of the Neapolitan family of 
 Nunziante. A good footpath (where the peculiar hollow rever- 
 beration produced by a heavy footstep should be observed) leads 
 in 40 min. to the summit of the volcano, into which the traveller 
 may descend, especially during the prevalence of the Sirocco, 
 when, like Stromboli, it emits less smoke. The greatest diameter 
 of the crater is upwards of 550 yds. The precipitous walls on 
 the E., S., and W. are covered with yellow incrustations of sul- 
 phur, and flames issue perpetually from a Assure in the S.E. 
 corner, being, however, more distinctly visible by night. A visit 
 to the borax chambers excavated in the crater by an enterprising 
 Englishman is interesting. After descending, the traveller should 
 visit a boiling-hot sulphur-spring, which issues at the Porto di 
 Ponente , a few paces from the shore, and then return to Lipari. 
 (Provisions should be brought from Lipari, as nothing can be 
 procured from the workmen of the manufactory, who live in caves, 
 and subsist on bread and ricotta or goats’ cheese, here called frutte 
 di mandra.) 
 
 Isola Salina ( Didyme , i.e. twins; Arabic Geziret Dindima ; 
 area lCM/g sq. M.) consists of the cones of two extinct volcanoes, 
 Monte Vergine (2821 ft.) to the N., and Monte Salvatore (3156 ft.), 
 or Malaspina , to the S. ; whence the Greek name. The island is 
 extremely fertile, and the almost exclusive source of the famous 
 Malmsey wine. It may be visited from Lipari on the same day 
 as Volcano. Its four villages contain 4900 inhabitants. 
 
 Filicuri ( Phcenicusa , Arabic Geziret Ficuda ), 9 M. to the W. 
 of Salina, was anciently clothed with palms, whence its Greek 
 name, but is now almost entirely uncultivated. 
 
320 Route 36. 
 
 STROMBOLI. 
 
 Alicuri, 9 l /. 2 M. to the W. of Filicuri, called Ericusa by the 
 ancients, because uncultivated and clothed with furze only, is in- 
 habited by 500 shepherds and fishermen. Circumference 6V 2 M. 
 No tolerable landing-place. 
 
 To the N.E. of Lipari is situated a small group of is- 
 lands, which possibly formed a single island, prior to a remarkable 
 eruption recorded by Orosius and Pliny, wEich took place here, 
 B.C. 126. The largest of these is Panaria ( Hicesia ), 7y 2 M. from 
 Lipari, and almost entirely uncultivated. The ancients did not 
 reckon this as one of the seven iEolian islands, but regarded 
 the small island of Lisca Bianca , or Euonymus , as one of the 
 number. Highest point 1381 ft. — The island of Basiluzzo 
 contains a few relics of antiquity. 
 
 Stromboli, 22 M. to the N.N.E. of Lipari, named Strongyle 
 owing to its circular form, was regarded by the ancients as the seat 
 of iEolus, the god of the winds, for which Pliny gives the some- 
 what unsatisfactory reason, that the weather could be foretold 
 three days in advance from the smoke of the volcano. It is 
 usually stated that Volcano and Stromboli smoke most copiously 
 during the Sirocco, but the islanders contradict this, and main- 
 tain that the smoke is densest during the ‘Ponente’, or W. wind. 
 In the middle ages Charles Martel was believed to have been 
 banished to Stromboli. Returning crusaders professed distinctly 
 to have heard the lamentations of tortured souls in purgatory, 
 to which this was said to be the entrance, imploring the inter- 
 cession of the monks of Clugny for their deliverance. It was 
 this that induced Odilo of Clugny (d. 1018) to institute the festi- 
 val of All Souls’ Day. 
 
 The cone of Stromboli (3022 ft.) is one of the few volcanoes 
 which are in a constant state of activity. The cfater lies to the 
 N. of the highest peak of the island, and at regular intervals 
 ejects showers of stones, almost all of which again fall within 
 the crater. The traveller may therefore approach the brink and 
 survey the interior without danger. 
 
 37. From Messina to Catania. Taormina. 
 
 5972 M. Railway. Four trains daily in 3 hrs., fares 10 fr. 75, 7 fr> 55, 
 5 fr. 40 c. •, to Giardini (Taormina) in l 3 /4 hr*, fares 5 fr. 45, 3 fr. 80, 
 2 fr. 75 c. ; to Letojanni (see below), 4 fr. 75, 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 40 c. — A 
 Steamboat also runs four or five times weekly from Messina to Catania 
 (Tues., Thurs., Frid., and Sat.). 
 
 Half-a-day suffices for a hasty visit to Taormina. The traveller whose 
 time is limited should start from Messina by the afternoon-train, alight 
 at Giardini, and ascend at once to Taormina in order thence to see the 
 sunset, and next morning the sunrise. (The midday lights are less favour- 
 able.) Then by the early train to Catania. If possible, however, two or 
 three days should be devoted to Taormina, which is one of the most 
 beautiful spots in Sicily. Those who intend returning to Messina should 
 
GIARDINI. 
 
 37. Route. 321 
 
 select the interesting route by Letojanni. On quitting the station at Messina 
 travellers are subjected to lenient custom-house formalities. 
 
 The railway skirts the coast, penetrating the promontories by 
 means of fourteen tunnels , crossing many fiumare, or torrents, the 
 beds of which are generally dry , and affording fine views on both 
 sides. Soon after leaving Messina we observe the new Campo 
 Santo on the hill to the right, with its conspicuous white Gothic 
 church. 4 M. Tremestieri , 7 M. Galati , 10 M. Giampilieri. On 
 an abrupt eminence, inland, is situated the extensive monastery 
 of S. Placido , to which a pleasant excursion may be made. 
 
 11 M. Scaletta , the residence of the Ruffo family, Princes of 
 Scaletta. The picturesque castle rises on the right as we approach 
 the station. 15 M. Alt, with sulphur-baths. Beyond it Roccalumera 
 is seen on the hill to the right. The train crosses several broad 
 fiumare. 17 M. Nizza di Sicilia ( S . Ferdinando J, with a ruined 
 castle of Prince Alcontres. In the woods of the Fiume di Nisi 
 Henry YI. met his death. 20^2 M. S. Teresa. Several more broad 
 torrent-beds are crossed. Farther on, to the left, is the beautiful 
 Capo S. Alessio , with a deserted fort. On the hill to the right lies 
 the town of Forza. Beyond the tunnel (Traforo di S. Alessio) 
 which penetrates the cape , a view is obtained of the promontory 
 of Taormina with the ruins of the theatre. Here are the Tauro- 
 menitanian passes of the ancients, and the frontier between the 
 territories of Messana and Naxos. 
 
 26 M. Letojanni. 
 
 Taormina (l-l 1 /* br. $ donkey 2 fr.) may be reached hence by a beautiful 
 route, which, however, is better suited for the descent. We follow the 
 high-road for 1 M., and then diverge by a footpath to the right to the 
 marble-quarries. A boy had perhaps better be taken as a guide, though 
 not absolutely necessary. 
 
 30 M. Giardini, an insignificant place, often visited by fever, 
 is the station for Taormina. From the bay here Garibaldi crossed 
 to Calabria in the autumn of 1860. 
 
 Boating Excursions from Giardini are exceedingly enjoyable in 
 favourable weather. The lofty and rugged cliffs of the coast are honey- 
 combed with grottoes. Bargaining with the boatmen necessary ; 1 fr. per 
 hr., or IV 2 fr. for a party, is a reasonable charge. 
 
 Taormina lies on an abrupt hill about 385 ft. above the railway- 
 station of Giardini , and is reached by a new carriage-road, as well 
 as by several foot and bridle-paths. The road diverges to the left 
 from the Messina road, near the Capo di Taormina, about l 1 /* M. 
 to the E. of the station, and ascends in long windings for nearly 
 2 M. About halfway to the Capo di Taormina a steep footpath 
 diverges to the left , while the bridle-path commonly used as- 
 cends a few hundred paces to the S.W. of the station , following 
 the bed of the Torrente Selina part of the way (reaching the town 
 in 30-40 min.). Porter to carry small articles of luggage 3 / 4 -l fr. ; 
 donkey l-lt /2 fr- 5 carriage for one person 3-4 fr., for several per- 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 21 
 
322 Route 37 
 
 TAORMINA 
 
 From Messina 
 
 sons about 6 fr. (most travellers will leave their heavier luggage 
 at the station). 
 
 Taormina. — "'Bella Veduta, with beautiful view, R. 2 f /2-5, B. 
 and ddj. 2-3, table d’hote 5, A. and L. 3 /4 fr., carriage to meet the train; 
 •Locanda Timeo , an old-established inn, R., L., and A. from 2, B. 2 ! /2, 
 D.3Y4, pension 6fr., with the dependance, Villa Teatro, below the theatre, 
 commanding a fine view (restaurant) ; Hotel Victoria, Corso Umberto, R. 1, 
 L. and A. */ 2 ? pension 4 fr., with trattoria adjoining; Albergo di Francia. 
 
 Taormina , the ancient Tauromenium , a town with 3000inhab M 
 consisting of a long street with several diverging lanes , is most 
 beautifully situated , and is commanded by the ruins of a Castle 
 
 perched on a rocky height (1299 ft. above the sea-level). Above 
 the latter rises the hill of Mola (2083 ft.), and farther distant is 
 the Monte Venere (2897 ft.). 
 
 The castle was formerly the Acropolis of Tauromenium, which, after the 
 destruction of Naxos by Dionysius in B.C. 403, was founded by the Siculi 
 (396) , to whom Dionysius granted the necessary land. They however, 
 soon renounced their allegiance to him and joined the Carthaginians, and 
 
to Catania. 
 
 TAORMINA. 
 
 37. Route . 323 
 
 in 394 Dionysius besieged their town in vain. In 392, however, he suc- 
 ceeded in capturing it, and garrisoned it with mercenaries. In 358 Andro- 
 maclius, father of the historian Timseus who was born here, transferred the 
 remainder of the population of Naxos to Tauromenium(comp. p’. 325). Timo- 
 leon, who landed on the rocks below the town, was warmly supported by the 
 inhabitants, but after his death dissensions arose. The town then joined the 
 Carthaginians against Agathocles, for which it was afterwards chastised by the 
 tyrant. After his death the town came into the power of Tyndarion, who in- 
 vited Pyrrhus to Sicily and induced him to land near Tauromenium (278). 
 When the Romans concluded a peace with Hiero II. of Syracuse, the town 
 came into their possession and enjoyed a long period of tranquillity. A num- 
 ber of the slaves established themselves here during the First Servile War, 
 and offered a long and obstinate resistance. As the town, being an ally of 
 Rome, had declared in favour of Sextus Pompeius and thus occasioned great 
 embarrassment to Octavian, it afterwards experienced the effects of his wrath, 
 and was peopled by a new colony. In the time of Strabo it was a place of 
 considerable importance. Its strong position long enabled the inhabitants to 
 ward off the attacks of the Saracens, who in 869 besieged it unsuccessfully. 
 But on 1st Aug., 902, it was taken by the bloodthirsty Ibrahim-ibn-Ahmed, 
 after the garrison had sallied forth and been defeated on the coast. 
 Mola, too, was captured by the Moors, the whole population massacred, and 
 the town burned. The adherents of the Bishop Procopius, whose heart 
 the savage Ibrahim proposed to devour , were strangled and burned on 
 his corpse. The town , however , recovered from this cruel blow, and 
 Hassan , the first Emir , was obliged to besiege and capture it anew 
 in 962. He then introduced a colony of Mussulmans, and named the town 
 Moezzia. In 1078 it was taken by the Normans , under whose supremacy 
 it again prospered. Here in 1410 was held the parliament which vainly 
 endeavoured to find a national sovereign to rule over Sicily. Battles were 
 subsequently fought here on two different occasions. In 1676 the French 
 took possession of Taormina and Mola, but on 17th Dec., 1677, a party 
 of forty brave soldiers caused themselves to be hoisted to the summit of the 
 rocks of Mola by means of ropes (at the point where the path from Taor- 
 mina skirts the base of the cliff), and succeeded in surprising and over- 
 powering the garrison. Again, on 2nd April, 1849, the Neapolitans under 
 Filangieri, ‘Duke of Taormina 1 , gained possession of the town, which 
 was defended for a few days only by a small body of troops under Santa 
 Rosalia. 
 
 At the Porta di Catania, the W. entrance of the town, is the 
 interesting Palazzo of the Duca di S. Stefano , with vaulted baths, 
 borne by granite columns, dating from the 14th century. Near it 
 is the Badia , a picturesque Gothic building. Ascending the main 
 street (Corso Principe Umberto) nearly to the other end of the town, 
 we reach the Largo del Foro , where the Palazzo Corvaja , a hand- 
 some mediaeval edifice, is situated on the left. Opposite to this 
 building the Strada di Giovanni, to the right, continued by the 
 Salita del Teatro , leads to the celebrated theatre , which is by far 
 the most interesting sight of Taormina. 
 
 The *Theatre is situate^ 420 ft. above the sea - level , on a 
 height to the E. of the town. 
 
 Francesco Strazzeri, the custodian, is on the spot the whole day (1 fr.). 
 If the visitor desires to see the sunrise from this point he should give 
 the custodian notice beforehand, in order that the door may be left open 
 for him. — The custodian shows a small Museum containing a torso of 
 Bacchus, a head of Apollo from the theatre, inscriptions, mosaics, 
 sarcophagi, and architectural fragments. — Restaurant in the Villa Teatro , 
 see p. 322. 
 
 The theatre is of Greek origin , but was remodelled during 
 
 21 * 
 
324 Route 37. 
 
 TAORMINA. 
 
 From Messina 
 
 the Roman period. According to an inscription on the road- 
 side, it was destroyed by the Saracens, while in reality it owes 
 its ruin to the Duca di S. Stefano , who employed its marble 
 ornaments in decorating his palace. In 1748 it was partially 
 restored. It is hewn in the rock in a semicircular form, and 
 is hounded at the upper end and on two sides only by Roman 
 masonry. The greatest diameter is 357 ft., that of the orchestra 
 about 126 ft. The stage, next to that of Aspendus in Pamphylia, 
 is the best-preserved in existence. In the posterior wall are 
 observed the three doors of the stage, in each space between 
 which are three niches, and on each side a niche for a statue. 
 The stage itself is narrow, as in Greek theatres, where the 
 orchestra occupied the greater space. The exact position of 
 the ‘thymela’ (or raised platform for the choir) cannot now be 
 determined. Beneath the stage is situated a vaulted channel for 
 water. The precise object of the apertures in the proscenium is 
 unknown, but they were probably connected with the machinery 
 of the theatre. Festal processions advanced to the stage from the 
 vaulted halls on each side. The adjoining smaller apartments 
 were probably used as dressing-rooms. The seats for spectators 
 were divided into nine cunei. The thirty-four niches on the 
 upper praecinctiones were perhaps occupied by sounding-boards. 
 Corresponding with the remains of the forty-five columns are 
 forty-five pilasters along the central wall. The building has 
 been constructed with such acoustic success , that every word 
 spoken on the stage is distinctly audible at the farther extremity. 
 
 The **View from the hill on which the theatre stands is one of 
 the most beautiful in Italy. We first take up our position on the 
 steps in front of the custodian’s hut on the top. On the right, 
 immediately below us , lies the well-preserved theatre, and to the 
 left rises the gigantic pyramid of iEtna. To the left in the fore- 
 ground, in the valley of the Alcantara, are the mountains of Casti- 
 glione, and then the hills and rocky peaks beyond the theatre : from 
 left to right we first observe La Maestra, S. Maria della Rocca (the 
 hermitage), the castle of Taormina, and beyond it the overhanging 
 hill of Mola and the still higher Monte Venere or Venerella ; at the 
 point where the latter slopes down towards the N. is seen the rocky 
 peak of Lapa, and then, nearer us, to the left, beyond the fiumara, 
 the precipitous- M. Zirreto with its marble quarries. The view is 
 even more beautiful in the morning , when the sun rises above 
 Calabria or from the sea , imparts a rosy hue to the snowy peak of 
 Mt. JEtna , and then gilds the rocky heights beyond the theatre. 
 Those who make a prolonged stay at Taormina will have an oppor- 
 tunity of observing some marvellous effects of light and shade. 
 
 Adjoining the piazza by the N. entrance to the town is a so- 
 called Roman Naumachia , probably once a bath-establishment. The 
 remains are in the Giardino del Capitolo (entered from the Strada 
 
to Catania. MOLA. 37. Route. 325 
 
 Naumachia). Of five Roman reservoirs one only (Lo Stagnone), 
 under the castle-hill, is in good preservation. 
 
 The following walk is recommended. Through the Porta di 
 Messina to the church of S. Pancrazio , the cella of a Greek 
 temple (prostylos) , which was once supposed to be that of 
 Apollo Archegetes. Then follow the road , passing some Roman 
 tombs (turn to the right after 5 min.), to the church of S. Pietro 
 e Paolo , near which there is an extensive necropolis. The stairs 
 adjoining the church lead to the Exconvento of the Frati Osser- 
 vanti, from which the town is regained by a footpath. 
 
 Another beautiful walk is to Mola (1 hr., guide unnecessary). 
 Within the Porta di Messina we turn to the left towards the foun- 
 tain, pass to the right of it, and follow the water-conduit 5 then, 130 
 paces from the fountain, we pass to the left under the conduit and 
 follow the road. Mola (osteria by the Matrichiesa) , which lies 
 2080 ft. above the sea-level, commands an imposing view, the 
 finest point being the ruined castle (key obtained for a trifling 
 gratuity). In returning we follow the crest of the hill, which to 
 the right descends to the Fiumara della Decima and to the left 
 to the Torrente di Fontana Vecchia , and reach the back of the 
 castle of Taormina. Under the almond-trees is the entrance to 
 the castle, whence another admirable view is obtained. We may 
 then descend to the S.E. by a winding path between the moun- 
 tain and the hermitage (Madonna della Rocca). 
 
 The castle also commands a view of the site of Naxos, the earliest 
 Greek colony in Sicily, founded by Theocles in B.C. 735. It is now occu- 
 pied by a lemon-plantation , situated between the influx of the Alcantara 
 and the bay on which Giardini lies. The altar of Apollo Archagetes, the 
 tutelary god of the colonists , on which the ambassadors of the Sicilian 
 Greeks were wont to offer sacrifices before starting for the Hellenic festal 
 assemblies, stood between the river and Taormina. Naxos was subjugated 
 by Hiero I. of Syracuse in 476, but soon regained its liberty and espoused 
 the cause of Athens, whose general Nicias wintered in the town in 415-14. 
 It was destroyed by Dionysius in 403. 
 
 Continuation of Journey to Catania. Beyond Giardini the 
 railway traverses the lava-streams of HStna. On the northernmost 
 of these stands the so-called Castello di Schist), on the site of the 
 ancient Naxos. The train crosses the Alcantara , the ancient 
 Acesines. Cantara is an Arabic word signifying a bridge. The 
 Sicilians name the river and the bridge by which the high-road 
 crosses it after the town of (3272 M.) Calatabiano , situated to 
 the right. This district is rendered unhealthy by malaria. The 
 lava-stream which descended by the Fiume Freddo, between this 
 point and the Ponte della Disgrazia, prevented the Carthaginian 
 general Himilco from proceeding direct to Syracuse after the de- 
 struction of Messana, and compelled him to march round the 
 mountain to the N. (B.C. 396). Here, too, the road now diverges 
 which leads to Catania by Randazzo and Aderno (see R. 38). 
 3572 M. Piedimonte (the town, p. 327, is situated 3 M. from the 
 
326 Route 37. 
 
 ACIREALE. 
 
 railway). The train next traverses the fertile district of Mascali 
 and Giarre , and reaches (40^2 M.) Giarre-Riposto. 
 
 Giarre ( Locanda della Pace , tolerable), 3 / 4 M. from the station, 
 is a town with 18,200 inhab., while Riposto ( Scroftna’s inn, toler- 
 able) lies to the left, on the coast. Above the village of S. Alfio , 
 on the slopes of ^Etna, 4^2 M. above Giarre, are the remains of the 
 gigantic chestnut-tree di Cento Cavalli 7 near which several other 
 famous old trees are still flourishing. The craters which were in 
 activity in 1865 and the Valle del Bove may he reached from 
 Giarre in 5 hrs. ; the guides are under the control of the Catania 
 Alpine Club (comp. R. 89). 
 
 46 M. Mangano. The train crosses several lava-beds. Fine 
 view! of ^Etna and the sea. Four tunnels. 
 
 50^2 M. Acireale , Sicil. Jaci ( *Grand ’ Albergo dei Bagni , a 
 large new hotel , with view of the sea and JEtna, and pleasant 
 grounds, R. & A. 4, B. li/g, D. 5, pens. 8-15 fr.), a wealthy 
 country-town with 24,000 (with the surrounding villages 37,500) 
 inhab. , has been almost entirely re-erected since the earthquake 
 of 1693, and stands on several different lava-streams, 560 ft. above 
 the sea. The climate here is considered so healthy, and the accom- 
 modation for patients is so much better, that the place is often pre- 
 ferred to Catania for a prolonged stay. A large Bath-house called 
 the Terme di S. Venere (mineral bath 2 fr., vapour bath 2*^ fr-), 
 has recently been erected for patients using the tepid mineral 
 springs, which are impregnated with sulphur. The garden of this 
 establishment, and the Villa Belvedere at the N. end of the town, 
 1 M. from the station, command admirable views of Mt. .Etna and 
 the coast. Baron Pasquale Pennisi possesses an admirable collection 
 of Sicilian coins, which , however, is not shown without a special 
 introduction. The environs are replete with geological interest. 
 Pleasant walks or drives may be taken to the villages of Valverde , 
 Viagrande , Tre Castagni , and Blandano , on the slopes of Mt. 
 iEtna, surrounded with luxuriant vegetation (comp, the Map, 
 p. 334). The myth of Acis, Galatea, and the giant Polyphemus, 
 narrated by Theocritus and Ovid (Metamorph. xiii) is associated 
 with this locality. A precipitous path (la Scalazza) descends to the 
 mouth of the Acis. — Pleasant excursion by S. Antonio and Tre 
 Castagni to Nicolosi (p. 339) ; one-horse carr. 15 fr. (2 3 / 4 hrs. ; 
 back in 2 hrsr.). A trip by boat along the coast to the Cyclopean 
 Islands is also enjoyable (see below). 
 
 The train approaches the sea. Near Aci Castello, we perceive 
 on the left the seven Scogli de Ciclopi , or Faraglioni , the rocks 
 which the blinded Polyphemus hurled after the crafty Ulysses. To 
 the S. of the Isola d'Aci, the largest of the islands, rises the most 
 picturesque of these rocks, about 200 ft. in height and 2000 ft. in 
 circumference. It consists of columnar basalt, in which beautiful 
 crystals are found, and is covered with a hard stratum of limestone 
 
PIEDIMONTE. 
 
 38. Route. 327 
 
 containing numerous fossil shells. The coast here is lofty, and 
 has risen 40 ft. within the historical period. Near these cliffs 
 Mago, although cut off from the land-army under Himilco, defeated 
 the Syracusan fleet under Leptines in 396. 
 
 5572 M. Aci Castello , with a picturesque ruined castle, in 
 which the adherents of Roger Loria defended themselves in 1297 
 against Frederick II. and Artale Aragona. The train then skirts 
 the bay of UOngnina , which is supposed to he identical with the 
 Portus Ulyssis described by Virgil (TEn. iii. 570), and filled by a 
 lava-stream in the 15th cent. On the right we at length perceive — 
 
 597 2 M. Catania, see p. 330. 
 
 38. From Taormina to Catania round the W. side 
 of Mt. iEtna. 
 
 Comp, the Map ,' p. 334. 
 
 The distance is about 60 M., which may accomplished by carriage in 
 two days, though three days may well be devoted to this delightful tour. 
 The charge for a carriage-and-pair is about 25 fr. daily, with 25 fr. more 
 for the return-journey. A single traveller may avail himself of the Cor- 
 riera Postale, which starts at 8 a.m. from Piedimonte , the second rail- 
 way-station to the S. of Giardini (p.325), reaching Randazzo at 2.45 p.m., 
 Bronte at 4.30 p.m., and Adernb at 7 p.m. — Another corriera leaves Aderno 
 next morning at 7.10 a.m., arriving at Paternb at 10.35 p.m. and Catania 
 at 3 a.m. — A Diligenza also runs twice daily from Aderno to Catania. 
 The inns are so poor that it is as well to be provided with food. 
 
 This route is especially recommended to those who wish to visit the 
 scene of the AStna eruption of 1879. Randazzo is the chief place for guides 
 for that purpose, but guides may also be obtained at Bronte and Bian- 
 cavilla (comp. p. 335). — The distances in the following description are 
 reckoned from Giardini. 
 
 Giardini , at the foot of the hill of Taormina , see p. 321. — 
 The route at first follows the Catania road to (3 M.) Calatabiano 
 (p. 325) and the river Alcantara. It then crosses the Fiume Menes- 
 sale and diverges from the coast-road , following the old military 
 road from Messina to Palermo, which was traversed by Himilco 
 in B.C. 396, by Timoleon in B.C. 344, and by Charles V. in A.D. 
 1534. 71/2 M. Piedimonte , 3 M. from the station of that name 
 
 (p. 325), whence the Corriera starts. IO 72 M. Linguaglossa. To 
 the right of the latter is Castiglione , which yields the best Sicilian 
 hazel-nuts. The road to Randazzo intersects extensive nut-planta- 
 tions. A little beyond Linguaglossa we obtain a more uninter- 
 rupted view of the valley of the Alcantara and the chain of the lofty 
 Nebrode , at the point where the mountains of Castiglione are lost 
 to view. Near the hamlet of Malvagna , on the left bank of the 
 Alcantara, stands a small Byzantine church, the only one in Sicily 
 which has survived the Saracenic period, an interesting object to 
 architects. In the vicinity probably lay the town of Tissa mentioned 
 by Cicero. The neighbouring village of Mojo, a little to the S., 
 lies near the northernmost crater of the JEtna. region. We now 
 traverse part of the lava ejected by Mt. iEtna in 1879 (guides at 
 
328 Route 38. 
 
 BRONTE. 
 
 From Taormina 
 
 Randazzo, comp. p. 335). The lava advanced nearly as far as the 
 Alcantara, and threatened to overwhelm the village of Mojo , the 
 inhabitants of which sought to appease the wrath of nature by a 
 religious procession hearing the statue of St. Anthony, their patron 
 saint. 
 
 22 M. Randazzo (2536 ft.; Locanda di Jocolo , indifferent), 
 with 8500 inhab., a town of very mediaeval appearance, founded 
 by a Lombard colony, was surnamed Etnea by theEmp. Frederick II., 
 being the nearest town to the crater of the volcano, and yet having 
 escaped destruction. In the middle ages it was called ‘the populous’. 
 
 The church of S. Maria , on the right side of the street, dates 
 from the 13th cent, (choir), the lateral walls from the 14th; 
 the campanile has been added to the original tower during the 
 present century. An inscription mentions Petrus Tignoso as 
 the first architect. The houses present many interesting speci- 
 mens of mediaeval architecture , such as the Palazzo Finochiaro 
 with an inscription in barbarous Latin , the mansion of Barone 
 Fesauli , and the Town Hall in which Charles V. once spent a 
 night. From the old Ducal Palace , now a prison, still protrude 
 the spikes on which the heads of criminals were exposed. A hand- 
 some mediaeval vaulted passage leads from the main street to the 
 church of 8. Niccolb , which is constructed of alternate courses of 
 black and white stone. 
 
 The road to Bronte still ascends, at first through a forest of 
 oaks with ivy-clad trunks, and the vegetation here assumes quite 
 a northern character. Before the path to the small town of Ma- 
 letto diverges, we reach the culminating point between the Al- 
 cantara and Simeto (3812 ft.). The torrents in spring form the 
 small lake Gurrita in the valley to the right, the exhalations from 
 which poison the atmosphere in summer. 
 
 To the right, in a valley below Maletto, lies the suppressed Benedictine 
 monastery of Maniacium. Here in the spring of 1040 the Greek general Ma- 
 niaces, aided by Norwegians (commanded by Harald Hardradr, afterwards 
 king) and Normans, defeated a large army of Saracens. Margaret, mother of 
 William II., founded the monastery in 1174, and William Blesensis, brother 
 of the celebrated Pierre de Blois, became the first abbot. Ferdinand IV. 
 presented the whole estate to Nelson in 1799, and created him Duke of 
 Bronte (a town which is said to derive its name from Ppovxav, to thun- 
 der). The steward (Mr. S. Grisley , an introduction to whom is desir- 
 able) of General Viscount Bridport, the present proprietor, resides at 
 Maniace, where the handsome vaulted gateways are objects of interest. 
 The present rental of the estates is about 75,000 fr. per annum. 
 
 The high mountain-ranges to the right, which are covered with 
 snow in spring, and the far more lofty ‘Pillar of Heaven’, 
 ‘Nourisher of the Snow’, as Pindar calls A3tna, to the left, invest 
 the scenery with an almost Alpine character. In 1651 a vast 
 lava-stream descended into the valley close to Bronte. 
 
 30 M. Bronte (2605 ft. ; Locanda dei Fratelli Cesare ; Loc . del 
 Real Collegio ; both tolerable), with 15,300 inhab., has been erected 
 since the time of Charles Y. — The road thence to Aderno traverses 
 
to Catania. 
 
 ADEllNO. 
 
 38. Route. 329 
 
 barren beds of lava, crossing the stream of 1843 (2M. from Bronte), 
 and those of 1727, 1763, 1603, 1787, and 1610. The craters visible 
 before us are (reckoned from the summit of .Etna downwards 
 towards the W.) the Monti Lepre , Rovolo , and Minardo. The com- 
 munes of Aderno and Bronte possess a beautiful forest here, the 
 boundary of which is formed by Mte. Minardo. The highest 
 mountain to the right, towards the N., is Monte Cuttb ; the Serra 
 della Spina belongs to the Nelson estate. The Foresta di Traina 
 is also called Monte Cunano. 
 
 40 M. Aderno (Locanda di Sicilia , tolerable; Loc. di Roma), 
 a wealthy town with 15,700 inhabitants. In the Piazza rises the 
 quadrangular Norman castle erected by Roger I., now used as a 
 prison ; the interior is very dilapidated. In the chapel are seen 
 remains of frescoes representing Adelasia, grand - daughter of 
 Roger I., taking the veil. The monastery of S. Lucia, nearly op- 
 posite, was founded by Roger in 1157. In ancient times the Sike- 
 lian city of Hadranum stood here , celebrated on account of its 
 temple of Hadranos , which was guarded by 1000 dogs. Frag- 
 ments of this structure, perhaps of the cella , are shown in the 
 garden of Salvatore Palermo at a place called Cartellemi , on the 
 right, outside the town. This was the headquarters of Timoleon 
 after he had defeated Hicetas of Syracuse in the vicinity. In the 
 valley of the Simeto, to the W. of Aderno, i/ 2 M. from the bridge 
 over the river, are the remains of a Roman aqueduct (Ponte Car - 
 cacci ). — The road descends from Aderno to the town of — 
 
 42 M. Biancavilla , with 13,200 inhab., some of whom are of 
 Albanian origin. 
 
 44 M. S. Maria di Licodia. The town of AEtna is said to have 
 lain in this neighbourhood. Between Licodia and Paterno, on the 
 right, 1 M. below Licodia, is the beginning of the Roman aqueduct 
 to Catania. 
 
 45 M. Paterno ( Locanda di Sicilia , tolerable ; Albergo della 
 Fenice , clean), on the site of the Sikelian town of Hybla Minor , 
 now contains 16,800 inhab., chiefly of the lower classes, the 
 landed proprietors having retired to Catania to escape the ma- 
 laria which prevails here. The square tower of the castle, erected 
 above the town by Roger I. in 1073, is used as a prison. Around 
 this stronghold on the hill was situated the mediaeval town, where 
 now the Matrice and two monasteries alone stand (tine views of the 
 valley). 
 
 Hybla became completely Hellenised at so early a period that it was 
 the only Sikelian town which did not participate in the insurrection 
 against the Greeks in 450 under Ducetius. In 415 the territory of the 
 town was devastated by the Athenians. The ancient road between Catania 
 and Centuripse passed by Hybla. Two arches of the bridge over the 
 Simeto are still standing. iEtna was ascended from this point in ancient 
 times. In the Contrada di Bella Cortina , in the direction of the moun- 
 tain, remains of baths have been discovered. In the vicinity is the Orotta 
 del Fracasso , through which an impetuous subterranean stream flows. To 
 
330 Route 39. 
 
 CATANIA. 
 
 Hotels . 
 
 the N.E. of Paterno, on the slopes of AStna, lies the town of Belpasso 
 (7600 inhab.), destroyed by an eruption in 1669, and subsequently re-erect- 
 ed on a new site (Mezzocampo). The air here was found to be unhealthy, 
 in consequence of which the inhabitants quitted the place and rebuilt their 
 town on its original site, where it now stands. By making a circuit round 
 the Monti Rossi , the traveller may from this point reach Nicolosi (p. 339), 
 whence iEtna is most conveniently ascended. 
 
 At Salinella , near Paterno, is a kind of mud-volcano, the last eruption 
 of which took place in*1878-9. 
 
 Before the descent is made to Misterbianco, the last town be- 
 fore Catania, a road diverges to the right to the town of Motta Santa 
 Anastasia (p. 298). From Motta the high-road may be regained 
 near Misterbianco^’hy traversing the valley to the right. To the 
 left before reaching the main road, near Erie Blanche , we observe 
 the fragments of a Roman building, and a few hundred feet farther 
 the remains offbaths, called Damusi. 
 
 56M. Misterbianco , a town with 6600 inhab., was destroyed 
 in 1669. To the right rises the Montecardillo , the S.E. crater of 
 the ./Etna group, overlooking the plain. Crossing the lava-stream of 
 1669, we now enter — 
 
 60 M. Catania by the Porta del Fortino. 
 
 39. Catania. 
 
 Arrival. By Railway. The station lies to the N.E. of the town (PI. 
 F, 3) ; omnibuses from the two principal hotels 1 fr. ; cab with one horse , 
 including luggage, 70 c., with two horses 1 fr. 20; after Ave Maria 80c. 
 or i fr. 80 c. ; after midnight double fares. — By Steamer. Landing (or 
 embarcation) fr., with luggage 1 fr. each person. The luggage of tra- 
 vellers arriving from the free harbour of Messina is slightly examined. 
 
 Hotels. : Grand -> Albergo di Catania, near the station, R. 37*2-4, 
 B. D. 5, L. and A. 2 fr., pension 10 fr and upwards. Hotel Central, 
 in the Strada Stesicorea, opposite the University, in the middle of the town, 
 R. 2V2, D. 472 , L. and A. 1 fr. — Unpretending second-class inns: Vit- 
 toria , with trattoria, in the Piazza del Duomo ; Orient, Rome, Malta, 
 etc., R. IV 2-2 fr. — Furnished Apartments are advertised in many streets. 
 
 Trattorie. Villa Nuova , to the right in the passage from the Piazza del 
 Duomo to the Marina (half-bottle of Vino Bosco 25 c., Terraforte 30 c., 
 Bianco 50 c.) ; Perricone , Strada Lincoln 245; Trattoria Genovese , Vico 
 Curio, near the church of the Minorites, well spoken of. — *Caf6 di Sici- 
 lia , Piazza del Duomo. — Bear at the Trattoria di Fil. Cornigliano , Str. 
 Condurso 19 (diverging from the Corso Vitt. Emanuele) and at the Fab- 
 brica di Birra e Gazzose , Str. Lincoln 249. 
 
 Reading Room , with Italian and a few French newspapers , Palazzo 
 della Prefettura, Str. Stesicorea, on the left when approached from the 
 university; strangers admitted gratis. 
 
 Post Office behind the Pal. S. Giuliano, near the piazza of the univer- 
 sity (no longer on the spot marked in the Plan). — Telegraph Office , 
 Piazza del Duomo. 
 
 Bank: Banca di Depositi e Sconti. 
 
 Railway to Messina , four trains daily; to Syracuse two; to Canicattl 
 (Palermo, Girgenti) three. — Diligence twice daily to Paternb and Adernb , 
 starting from the ‘Rilievo 1 , a side-street of the Str. Garibaldi; a Vettura 
 Corriera also runs to these places daily at 2 p.m. ; another from Valsa- 
 voia station to Galtagirone (p. 298) daily at 8 a.m. — Steamboat four 
 times a week to Messina ; once a week (Mondays) to Syracuse and Malta. 
 
 The Silk Stuffs of Catania are good and durable. 
 
 Climate and Health. The influence of the snow -fields of Mt. 2Etna 
 
History. 
 
 CATANIA. 
 
 39 . Route . 331 
 
 make the winter temperature at Catania lower than at Palermo, but the 
 summer-heat is on the other hand much greater, so that the mean an- 
 nual temperature of Catania is 9° Fahr. higher than that of Palermo. The 
 N.E. wind is often very cold in winter. The destruction of the forests on 
 Mt. iEtna tends also to make the climate more variable. The drinking- 
 water is generally good ; the mineral water of Paterno is also exten- 
 sively used. — Catania used to suffer terribly from the cholera, but re- 
 cently the sanitary condition of the town has been excellent. As a winter 
 resort of invalids Catania somewhat resembles Palermo , but there is a 
 great lack of walks and of gardens for sitting in the open air. 
 
 The town is not attractive to tourists. Most of the antiquities are 
 uninteresting , and the extensive theatre is so deeply buried in the lava 
 that it is completely eclipsed by the noble similar structures at Taormina 
 and Syracuse. The mediaeval buildings of Catania are also unimportant. 
 The chief attraction is the survey of iEtna , the finest points of view 
 being the Benedictine monastery and the Villa Bellini. (Those who do not 
 ascend Mt. ./Etna should at least make an excursion to the Monti Rossi, 
 p. 339.) — The festivals of St. Agatha , the tutelary saint of the town, 
 are celebrated with great pomp on 3rd-5th Feb. and 18th-21st Aug., vying 
 in splendour with those of St. Rosalia at Palermo. 
 
 Catania, which after Palermo is the most populous city in the 
 island (83,500 inhab. ; or with the suburbs 90,168, i.e. less than 
 Messina), is the seat of a bishop, an appeal court, and a university, 
 founded in 1445. It is situated about the middle of the E. coast of 
 Sicily, on a bay of the Ionian Sea. The harbour is indifferent, but 
 is at present being enlarged. The town carries on a brisk trade in 
 sulphur, cotton, wine, grain, linseed, almonds, and the other pro- 
 ducts of this rich and extremely fertile district. The Accademia 
 Gioenia di Scienze Naturali , founded in 1823, has taken a pro- 
 minent part in promoting the scientific investigation of the natural 
 features and products of Sicily. The wealth of the citizens, and 
 especially of the landed nobility resident in the town, is proved 
 by their perseverance, notwithstanding the disasters caused by 
 numerous earthquakes, in rebuilding their spacious palaces, and 
 by the general appearance of the town , which is in many respects 
 the cleanest and pleasantest in Sicily. 
 
 Catana , founded by Chalcidians about 729, five years after they had 
 founded Naxos, soon rose to prosperity. Shortly after Zaleucus had pro- 
 mulgated the first Hellenic code of laws among the Locri Epizephyrii, 
 Charondas framed a code for Catana, which was subsequently recognised 
 as binding by all the Sicilian communities of Ionian and Chalcidian ex- 
 traction. Tisias , surnamed Stesichorus on account of his merits in per- 
 fecting the chorus of the Greek drama, born at Himera on the N. coast of 
 the island about the year 630, closed his career at Catana at an advanced 
 age. His tomb is said to have been within the precincts of the present 
 Piazza Stesicorea. Catana suffered greatly in the wars of the Doric colonies 
 against the Chalcidians. Hiero I. took the town in 476 and transplanted 
 the inhabitants to Leontini, re-populating it with Syracusans and Pelo- 
 ponnesians , and changing its name to JEtna. In 461, however, the new 
 intruders were expelled and the old inhabitants re-instated , and in the 
 Athenian and Syracusan war Catana became the Athenian headquarters. 
 In 403 Dionysius conquered Catana, reduced the inhabitants to slavery, 
 and gave the town to his Campanian mercenaries. After the naval 
 victory of the Cyclopean islands in 396 Catana fell into the hands of 
 the Carthaginians, and in 339 was delivered by Timoleon from the tyrant 
 Mamercus. It was one of the first Sicilian towns of which the Romans 
 took possession, and under their sway became one of the most populous 
 
332 Route 39. 
 
 CATANIA. 
 
 Cathedral . 
 
 in the island. Marcellus undertook extensive improvements, but the town 
 sustained great damage during the Servile wars and the civil war between 
 Sextus Pompeius and Octavian. The latter afterwards introduced a new 
 colony. During the early part of the middle ages Catania was a place 
 of subordinate importance. It was wrested from the Goths by Belisarius , 
 plundered by the Saracens, conquered and strongly fortified by the Nor- 
 mans, but in 1169 almost totally overthrown by an earthquake. Towards 
 the close of that century it declared in favour of King Tancred, and was 
 in consequence taken by the troops of Henry VI. under Henry of Kallenthin 
 and razed to the ground. Again restored, and in 1232 provided by Fre- 
 derick II. with the fortress of Rocca Orsina (W. of the harbour), it sub- 
 sequently flourished under the Arragonese sovereigns of the 14th cent, who 
 generally resided here, but owing to the feebleness of the government was 
 exposed to numerous sieges. In 1444 Alphonso founded the first Sicilian 
 university here, and after that date Catania was long regarded as the literary 
 metropolis of the island. Since that period the tranquillity of the town 
 has been uninterrupted, except by the insignificant contests of April, 1849, 
 and May, I860; but its progress has been materially retarded by calami- 
 tous natural phenomena. On 8th March , 1669 , a fearful eruption of Mt. 
 Aitna took place ; the Monti Rossi were upheaved, and an arm of the lava- 
 stream (14 M. in length and 25 ft. in width) flowed in the direction of the 
 town. The pious inhabitants, however, succeeded in averting its course 
 by extending the veil of St. Agatha towards it, in consequence of which 
 the stream took a W. direction near the Benedictine monastery and de- 
 scended into the sea to the S.W. of the town, partially filling up the har- 
 bour. An earthquake in 1693, by which the whole island was affected, 
 proved especially destructive to Catania, and the present town has been 
 erected since that date. 
 
 Leaving the Railway Station (PI. F, 3), and before entering 
 tbe town, we follow the street to the left, leading to the ( 4 / 4 M.) 
 Piazza de Martiri (PL F, 4) , which is adorned with a statue of 
 St. Agatha on an ancient column. 
 
 The Corso Yittorio Emanuele, starting from this point, in- 
 tersects the town to its opposite end, upwards of 1 M. distant. In 
 10 min. it leads to the Piazza del Duomo (PL D, 4), which is 
 embellished with a fountain with an antique Elephant in lava, 
 hearing an Egyptian obelisk of granite. The Elephant was perhaps 
 anciently used as a meta in a race-course, but when it was erected 
 here is uncertain. 
 
 The Cathedral (PI. D, 4), begun by Roger I. in 1091, was 
 almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 1169. The apses 
 and part of the E. transept are now the only remains of the 
 original edifice. The granite columns of the facade are from the 
 ancient theatre , from which indeed King Roger seems to have ob- 
 tained the whole of his building materials. 
 
 Around the -high-altar are placed sarcophagi of the Arragonese sover- 
 eigns. On the right, Frederick II. (d. 1337) and his son John of Randazzo ; 
 King Louis (d. 1355) ; Frederick III. (d. 1377) *, Queen Maria, wife of Mar- 
 tin I., and their youthful son Frederick. On the left, the monument of 
 Queen Constance, wife of Frederick III. (d. 1363). The chapel of St. 
 Agatha, to the right in the apse, contains the relics of the saint, who 
 was cruelly put to death in the reign of Decius , A.D. 252, by the praetor 
 Quintianus, whose dishonourable overtures she had rejected. Her crown 
 is said to have been presented by Richard Coeur de Lion. The silver 
 sarcophagus is conveyed through the city during the February festival 
 by men in white robes, accompanied by the senate. The women on these 
 occasions cover their faces so as to leave but one eye visible, and amuse 
 
Theatre. 
 
 CATANIA. 
 
 39. Route. 333 
 
 themselves by coquetting with the male population. — By the second 
 pillar to the right is the Monument of Bellini , the composer, a native of 
 Catania (1802-35); his remains were brought from Paris, where he died, in 
 1877. — The Sacristy (left) contains a fresco representing the eruption of 
 1669, by Mignemi. 
 
 The sacristan of the cathedral keeps the key of the uninteresting 
 Roman Baths under the Piazza del Duomo, the entrance to which adjoins 
 the cathedral colonnade. 
 
 Passing in front of the cathedral, we now descend to the Largo 
 della Marina (PI. D, 4), on the quay, which is skirted by the rail- 
 way viaduct. A small public garden here, called the Villa Pacini or 
 Flora della Marina , is adorned with a bust of G. Pacini, the com- 
 poser of operas, who was born at Catania in 1796. 
 
 Following the Corso for a few paces beyond the Piazza del 
 Duomo , and ascending the Largo S. Francesco (PI. C, 4) to the 
 right , we enter the first cross-street to the left. No. 21 in this 
 street is the entrance to the ancient theatre. (Custodian, Gius. 
 Carofratello, who shows plans of the building, 1 fr. ; he also con- 
 ducts visitors to the other sights of the town, 2 fr.) 
 
 The remains of this Graeco-Roman Theatre (PI. C, 4) are chiefly 
 underground, and some parts of it can only be visited by torch- 
 light, so that it is not easy to obtain a distinct idea of its plan. 
 The Roman structure (diameter 106 yds., orchestra 31 yds.) was 
 erected on the foundations of the Greek. It contained two prac- 
 cinctiones and nine cunei. It was perhaps here that Alcibiades 
 harangued the assembled Catanians in 415, and induced them to 
 league with Athens against Syracuse. — The adjacent Odeum 
 (PI. C, 4), 44 yds. in diameter, which is entirely of Roman origin, 
 but afterwards much altered, and only in partial preservation, was 
 probably used for the rehearsals of the players and for musical 
 performances. — Most of the ruins discovered at Catania were 
 excavated during the last century by Prince Ignazio Biscari. The 
 Biscari Museum, however, has been closed for several years. 
 
 Following the same street a little farther, we pass the church 
 of S. Maria Rotonda (PI. 17; C, 4), near which are remains of 
 ancient baths, and then, turning to the right, reach the suppressed 
 Benedictine monastery of S. Nicola, or S. Benedetto (PI. B, 3, 4). 
 This religious house, which covers an area of 100,000 sq. yds., is 
 said once to have been the most imposing in Europe after that of 
 Mafra in Portugal. The Church with its unfinished facade is be- 
 lieved to be the largest in Sicily, but presents a somewhat mean 
 appearance. The organ, by Donato del Piano, one of the finest in 
 Europe, possesses 5 keyboards , 72 stops , and 2916 pipes. The 
 choir -stalls were carved by Nice. Bagnasco of Palermo. The mon- 
 astery was formerly situated at S. Nicola d’ Arena , near Nicolosi, 
 but was transferred to its present site in 1518. In 1669 the lava- 
 stream turned aside here, but in 1693 the monastery was destroyed 
 by the earthquake. The present edifice was then erected, and has 
 been inhabited since 1735. All the monks were members of noble 
 
334 Route 39. 
 
 CATANIA. 
 
 University. 
 
 families. Since the dissolution of the monastery in 1866 the maga- 
 zines have been converted into barracks, and the other rooms have 
 been fitted up for educational purposes. Some of the rooms contain 
 a Museum of natural curiosities, antiquities, vases, bronzes, works 
 in marble, inscriptions, and mediaeval arms, and also a few paint- 
 ings by Antonello da Saliba (1497) and others. The library con- 
 tains 20,000 vols. and 300 MSS. We enter the gateway to the 
 left of the church, and cross the court to a staircase leading to the 
 dwelling of the custodian. The monastery contains two large courts, 
 and is bisected by double corridors. The *Garden at the back com- 
 mands a magnificent view of iEtna. 
 
 A Roman Bath , complete in almost all its parts, lies under the 
 Carmelite church AlV Indirizzo (PI. 16 ; D, 4). It consists of an 
 undressing-room (apodyterium), a fire-room (hypocaustum), a tepid 
 bath ( tepid arium) ^ a steam-bath (calidarium) , and a warm water 
 bath (balneum). — In the neighbourhood the custodian points 
 out an interesting fragment of the ancient town wall, now partly 
 covered by a stream of lava. Below it bubbles up a copious spring, 
 probably issuing from the subterranean river Amenanus , men- 
 tioned by Pindar, which comes to light just before it falls into the 
 harbour. 
 
 The Strada Stesicorea (PI. D, 4, 3), running from the Piazza 
 del Duomo in the direction of ^Etna (N.), leads first to the Piazza 
 degli Studj , on the left side of which is the University (PI. 11), 
 containing a library of 5000 vols. founded in 1755, a natural history 
 collection (Cab. Gioeni), and several antiquities. — We next reach 
 the small Piazza Quattro Cantoni , where the Strada Stesicorea is 
 crossed by the Strada Lincoln , another of the principal streets 
 running from E. to W. The Strada Lincoln, which crosses the 
 lava-stream of 1669 and leads to the station, has recently been 
 levelled to meet the requirements of traffic, and many of the houses 
 are thus only accessible by means of lofty flights of steps. 
 
 The Strada Stesicorea next leads to the Piazza Stesicorea 
 (PI. D, 3), the S.W. part of which was once occupied by a Roman 
 Amphitheatre (PI. 7). This building, of which there are remains 
 in the Strada Archebusieri, was restored by the sons of Constantine, 
 but partly taken down during the reign of Theodoric in order that 
 its materials might be used in building the town wall. The longer 
 diameter is 38 yds., the shorter 116 yds. in length. 
 
 In the vicinity is the church of S. Car cere (PI. C, 3), with an 
 interesting Graeco-Norman *Portal of the 11th century. The small 
 marble statue in a sitting posture on the front column on the left 
 is said to be that of Emp. Frederick II. In the interior is preserved 
 an impression of the feet of St. Agatha in marble. 
 
 Beyond this point the Strada Stesicorea is uninteresting. Near 
 the Piazza del Bor go it takes the name of Strada Etnea, and in 
 this part of the street is situated the *Villa Bellini (PI. C, 2), 
 
MOUNT A3TNA. 
 
 40. Route. 335 
 
 formerly called Al Labirinto , which deserves a visit for its tasteful 
 grounds and the pleasant views they command. It contains busts 
 of Bellini and other famous natives of Catania , of Cavour and 
 others, and a statue of Mazzini. The lava has in many places been 
 laid hare below the walls of the new terrace. Concert on three 
 evenings weekly in summer. 
 
 Near S. Maria di Gesii , to the N.W. of the town, are remains 
 of Roman tombs. 
 
 A pleasant excursion may be made from Catania to the Cyclopean 
 Islands (p. 326). — Those who do not make the ascent of Mt. iEtna should 
 at least drive to Nicolosi (p. 329, carr., see below) and visit the Monti Rossi. 
 
 40. Mount iEtna. 
 
 The best season for the ascent of iEtna is the summer or autumn 
 (July-Sept.). In spring the snow is a serious obstacle , and in winter 
 the guides object to undertake the ascent. A moonlight night is always 
 desirable, and indeed indispensable early or late in the season. As the 
 elements are very capricious here, the traveller must frequently be satis- 
 fied with a view of the crater only, which, however, alone repays the 
 fatigue. In settled weather , when the smoke ascends calmly, and the 
 outline of the mountain is clear, a fine view may with tolerable cer- 
 tainty be anticipated. If, on the other hand, the smoke is driven aside 
 by the wind which frequently prevails on the summit, the prospect is 
 partially, if not entirely obscured. 
 
 Guides and Mules. A Section of the Italian Alpine Club , by which 
 guides and the various arrangements for the ascent of Mt. iEtna are 
 superintended, is now established at Catania, under the presidency of Prof. 
 Orazio Silvestri , author of several works on Mt. iEtna. It has granted 
 certificates to a number of guides, who wear a badge with a number, and 
 are provided with a ‘libretto di recognizione 1 . There are several places 
 on the skirts of Mt. JEtna where these guides may be obtained: Nicolosi 
 (p. 339), chiefly for the ‘grande ascensione’, or ascent to the summit; 
 Zaffarana (Zafarano on the map, 10 M. to the N. of Catania), for a visit 
 to the Valle del Bove; Giarre (p. 326), for the crater of 1865; Randazzo 
 (p. 328), for the N. side generally; Bronte (p. 328), for the crater of 1843; 
 Biancavilla (p.329), for the Monte Calvario, the Grotta di Scila, and the 
 scene of the S.W. eruption of 1879. — The following is the Tariff of 
 
 1879. 
 
 Guide from Nicolosi to the top of Mt. iEtna, and back (two 
 
 days, parties generally take two guides) 10 fr. 
 
 from Nicolosi to the Monti Rossi, or other points reach- 
 ed in half-a-day 2 fr. 
 
 from Zaffarana to the Valle del Bove, and back (one day) 3 fr. 
 for all other excursions for one day 3 fr. 
 
 Mule from Nicolosi to the Casa Etnea (p. 339) and back (two 
 
 days), including attendant’s fee 10 fr. 
 
 A mule must also be provided for the guide, and a sumpter- 
 mule (mulo di carico) is required to carry the provisions, 
 
 charcoal, wraps, etc 
 
 from Nicolosi to the Monti Rossi and back 2 fr. 
 
 from any of the other stations for an excursion of one 
 day, without an attendant 3 fr. 
 
 Tickets for the use of the Casa Etnea are procured at the guides, 
 office ( 27 2 fr.). 
 
 Other information may be obtained in the office of the Alpine Club 
 at Catania, on the ground-floor of the Palazzo Prefettizio, next door to 
 the Ateneo Siculo. 
 
336 Route 40. 
 
 MOUNT iETNA. 
 
 Vegetation. 
 
 Carriages. The usual charge for a two -horse carriage to Nicolosi, 
 which remains there during the night, and conveys the traveller hack to 
 Catania next day, is 20-25 fr., with an additional gratuity of 3-5 fr. 
 (‘tutto compreso 1 ). One-horse 15 fr. and 2-3 fr. gratuity. Those who walk 
 or ride to Mcolosi may engage a carriage for the return only (with one 
 horse 10, with two 15 fr. and 1-2 fr. fee). (Carriage of course preferable 
 for the return to Catania after a fatiguing ride of , 10-12 hrs., although the 
 charges are exorbitant.) 
 
 Even in hot weather the traveller should not fail to be provided with 
 an overcoat or plaid, as the wind on the mountain is often bitterly cold. 
 In winter or spring, when the snow is still unmelted, a veil or coloured 
 spectacles will be found useful. Provisions, including water, for the ascent 
 had better be procured at Catania. 
 
 Distances. From Catania to Nicolosi by carriage in 2 l /-z hrs., returning 
 in U /4 hr. (on foot from the Barriera beyond Borgo di Catania, to which 
 point a carriage should be taken, in 2^, back in 2 hrs.). Mule from 
 Nicolosi to the Casa del Bosco 2 l />z hrs., thence to the Casa Etnea 
 3 V 2 hrs. ; on foot from Nicolosi (not advisable) 7-8 hrs. (halts not included). 
 From the Casa Etnea to the crater, on foot only, in IV 4 -IV 2 hr. •, halt on 
 the summit and descent to the Casa Inglese 2-2V2 hrs.; thence to Nicolosi 
 4-5 hrs. The excursion is therefore long and fatiguing, and few travellers 
 will be disposed to walk back to Catania on the evening after the ascent. 
 
 Plan of Excursion. The ascent is usually made as follows : — Drive 
 from Catania to Nicolosi in the morning , breakfast , and start again at 
 11 a.m., reaching the Casa del Bosco at 1.30 p.m.; rest here for 1 hr., and 
 then ascend to the Casa Etnea, where the guides usually prepare soup 
 ( brodo , Eng. broth) from meat brought for the purpose. Several hours 
 of repose are enjoyed here, the ascent not being resumed till 2 or 2.30 
 a.m., and the summit is gained at 3.15 or 3.45 a.m. — The guides should 
 be required to observe punctually the prescribed hours of starting , in 
 order that the traveller may neither arrive too late at the Casa Etnea 
 nor be surprised by the sunrise before reaching the top. Those who 
 pass the night in Nicolosi may begin the ascent about 8 a.m. It is hardly 
 advisable to start from Nicolosi in the afternoon, and make part of the 
 ascent during the night. 
 
 An excellent map of iEtna and its environs was published by Sar- 
 torius von Waltershausen in 1848-59 ( 4 AW«s des uEtna\ Gottingen and 
 Weimar). 
 
 Mount .ffitna (10,835 ft.), Sicilian Mongibello (from ‘monte’ 
 and ‘jebel’, the Arabic for mountain), commonly called L ll Monte\ 
 is the loftiest volcano in Europe, as well as the highest moun- 
 tain in Italy. There are three different zones of vegetation on the 
 slopes of iEtna. The first extends beyond Nicolosi , called the 
 Piemontese or Coltivata, and yielding the usual Sicilian products. 
 Up to a height of 1600 ft. grow large groves of oranges and lemons ; 
 higher up the vine predominates, being occasionally seen at a 
 height of 3700 ft. The next zone is the Boscosa or Nemorosa, 
 extending to 7000 ft. and subdivided into two regions. The lower 
 of these (2200-4200 ft.) is clothed chiefly with oaks and chestnuts, 
 above which are copper-beeches (Fagus silvatica) and birches 
 (Betula alba and Betula Etnensis). On the N.E. side, at a height 
 of 6700 ft., are extensive forests of Laricio pines (Pinus Laricio, 
 Sicil. zappinu), the only lofty coniferous trees among the forests 
 of Mt. .Etna. In the highest zone , the Regione Deserta , from 
 6900 ft. to the summit, the vegetation is of a most stunted descrip- 
 tion. Even at a height of 6200 ft. the beeches become dwarfed. 
 
Eruptions. 
 
 MOUNT .ETNA. 
 
 40. Route. 337 
 
 Owing to the scarcity of water and the frequent changes in the sur- 
 face of the soil no Alpine flora can exist here, hut there is a narrow 
 zone of sub-Alpine shrubs, most of which occur also in the upper 
 part of the wooded region. About forty species of plants only are 
 found here, among which are the barberry, juniper, Viola gracilis, 
 and Saponaria depressa. Within the last 2000 ft. five phanerogam- 
 ous species only flourish : Senecio Etnensis, Anthemis Etnensis, 
 Robertsia taraxacoides (these three peculiar to .Etna), Tanacetum 
 vulgare, and Astragalus Siculus, which last grows in tufts of 3-4 ft. 
 in diameter. The Senecio Etnensis is found as high as the vi- 
 cinity of the crater, several hundred feet above the Casa Inglese. 
 Not a trace of animal life can be detected on the higher portion 
 of the mountain. The black silent waste, glittering in the sun- 
 shine, produces an impression seldom forgotten by those who have 
 witnessed it. On the lower parts of the mountain, wolves, as 
 well as hares, rabbits, and a few wild boars, are the usual ob- 
 jects of the chase. HStna is clothed with fourteen different 
 forests, which, however, present no definite line of demarcation. 
 Ferns (especially the Pteris aquilina) frequently take the place 
 of underwood. The densest forests are the Boschi della Cerrilla 
 and di Linguaglossa on the N.E. side, which, however, suffered 
 greatly from the eruption of 1865. As lately as the 16th cent, 
 impenetrable forests extended from the summit down to the 
 valley of the Alcantara, and Cardinal Bembo extols the beauty of 
 the groves of plane-trees. About the beginning of the last 
 century upwards of one-third of the E. coast of the island was 
 still overgrown with forest. 
 
 Eruptions. .Etna has been known as a volcano from the 
 earliest ages. At one time the mountain has been represented as 
 the prison of the giant Enceladus or Typhceus, at another as the 
 forge of Vulcan. It is, however, remarkable that the Greek mar- 
 iners’ traditions in Homer do not allude to its volcanic character. 
 Pindar, on the other hand, describes an eruption previous to 
 476. About eighty eruptions fall within the limits of history. 
 The most violent were those of B.C. 396, 126, and 122, and A.D. 
 1169, 1329, 1537, and 1669. The last of these, one of the most 
 stupendous of all, has been described by the naturalist Borelli. 
 On that occasion the Monti Rossi were formed, 27,000 persons 
 were deprived of all shelter, and many lives were lost in the 
 rapidly descending streams of lava. In 1693 an eruption was 
 accompanied by a fearful earthquake, which partially or totally 
 destroyed forty towns, and caused a loss of 60-100,000 lives. An 
 eruption took place in 1755, the year of the earthquake at 
 Lisbon. That of 1792 has been described by Ferrara and others. 
 In 1843 and 1852 lava-streams burst forth near Bronte and in 
 the Valle del Bove, and the eruption of 1st Feb. 1865, occurred 
 at the base of the great crater of Monte Frumento , to the N.W. 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7tk Edition. 22 
 
338 Route 40. 
 
 MOUNT .ETNA. 
 
 Ascent. 
 
 of the principal crater. Another eruption took place on 29th and 
 30th Aug. 1874, on the N. side of the summit. At a height of 
 about 10,000 ft. a cleft was formed in the mountain’s crust, from 
 the so - called Cratere Ellittico to the formerly active cones of 
 Timpa Rossa (or Monte Rosso , as on the Map) and Monte Nero. 
 The volcanic action was most violent near the Monte Grigio (see 
 Map), at a height of about 8000 ft., where the chasm expanded to 
 a width of 160-190 ft., but the lava-stream emitted thence flowed 
 for a few hours only. A second, and larger stream, 440 yds. long, 
 88 yds. wide, and 7ft. in depth, was emitted by the same chasm 
 at a height of about 7000 ft., but did not descend as far as the 
 cultivated part of the slopes. 
 
 The eruption of 1879 (26th May to 6th June) occurred at almost 
 the same spot as the last-mentioned, but was accompanied by the 
 unusual phenomenon of a simultaneous outbreak of lava on the 
 opposite side of the mountain. The latter stream of lava (to the 
 W.S.W. of the crater) was, however, of insignificant extent, and 
 ceased flowing at a height of 6500 ft. From the crater itself nothing 
 was ejected except huge volumes of steam mixed with volcanic 
 sand and ashes. On the N.N.E. side the lava first appeared in the 
 old crater of 1874, near Monte Grigio. Here, at a height of 4705 ft. 
 above the sea , it formed a new hill 560 ft. high, which Prof. 
 Silvestri, who witnessed its formation, has named Monte TJmberto - 
 Margherita . The lava poured forth in large masses, at first from 
 an opening at the foot of this elevation, and afterwards also from 
 other openings in a straight line below it. Its descent was at first 
 at the rate of about 15 ft. per minute, afterwards 3-6 ft. per minute, 
 and finally 30-40 ft. per hour. In its course it devastated a large 
 tract of cultivated ground (valued at upwards of 20,000 i.), crossed 
 the road from Linguaglossa to Randazzo (p. 327) , and did not 
 cease to flow till it had almost reached the river Alcantara. The 
 superficial area of this stream of lava amounts to 2,720,000 sq. 
 yds., while that on the S.W. side covers 135,000 sq. yds. only. 
 Comp, the Map. 
 
 **Ascent. We quit Catania by the long Strada Etnea, and pass 
 a long succession of country-residences. If time permits, the tra- 
 veller should visit the park of the Marchese S. Giuliano, at Licatia , 
 a little to the right of the road. By the Barriera the road divides, 
 that to Nicolosi leading to the left, between the two obelisks. 
 The ascent becomes more rapid; Gravina is passed, then Mas- 
 calucia (3100 inhab.), and farther on Torre di Grifo ( Torrelifo , 
 1749 ft.). Between this and Nicolosi we traverse the barren sur- 
 face of the lava-stream of 1537. The rounded and at places tree- 
 like bushes of broom (Genista Etnensis) which flourish here form 
 a peculiar feature in the scene. To the right of the road, about 
 i/ 2 M. from Nicolosi, is the crater called the Grotta del Bove , 
 which maybe visited in passing (no path, and a wall must be climbed 
 
Ascent. MOUNT .ETNA. 40. Route. 339 
 
 over). To tlie left tower the reddish cones of the Monti Rossi 
 (see below). 
 
 Nicolosi. — Locanda l’Etna, at the entrance to the village, on the 
 right; Locanda di Giuseppe Mazzaglia, at the beginning of the street 
 ascending to the right, less pretending; bargaining necessary at both; R. 
 <fc A. 2-3 fr., pranzo 3fr., bottle of wine 1 fr. 
 
 Nicolosi (2265 ft.), a village with 2700 inhab., 9 M. to the N.W. 
 of Catania, is the usual starting-point for an ascent of Mt. TEtna. 
 The traveller should at once apply to the ‘Capo delle Guide’, and 
 make the necessary arrangements with him. Those who intend 
 to spend the night at Nicolosi should arrive in time to make an 
 excursion to the Monti Rossi the same afternoon. 
 
 The Monti Rossi (3110 ft.), about 2 M. from Nicolosi, may be visited 
 in 2-3 hrs., there and back (guide 2 fr., mule 2 fr.). The cone to the left 
 is the one usually ascended. It commands a fine *View, especially towards 
 the S., extending from Catania and the Capo S. Croce on the E. to the 
 neighbourhood of Castrogiovanni on the W. ; to the S.E. lie Catania and 
 the coast. The soil contains a number of crystals of pyroxene. Between 
 the summits are two craters. The descent may be made by the villages 
 of Pedara and Tre Castagni , whence a road leads to Acireale (see p. 326). — 
 3It. iEtna is surrounded by a series of turf-clad volcanic eminences similar 
 to the Monti Rossi, and of these ‘ligli dell 1 Etna 1 no fewer than 350 have 
 been counted. 
 
 Leaving Nicolosi, we ride for. 1 !/ 2 lir. towards the N. The 
 ascent of the forest-region which then begins is at first somewhat 
 precipitous ; the path winds, and in many places traverses small 
 ravines. After another hour we reach the Casa del Bosco (4216 ft.), 
 where a halt of hr. is made. Near it good drinking-water 
 
 is to be had, of which the guides carry away a supply. In the 
 vicinity are several other houses, including one belonging to the 
 Duke Alba in a chestnut- plantation. The path winds through 
 a hollow between smaller extinct volcanoes, until, about 6900 ft. 
 above the sea, it enters the Regione Deserta. The ascent is at first 
 gradual. To the right is seen the Montagnuola (8670 ft.), the W. 
 extremity of the Serra del Solfizio , below which to the S. are hollows 
 filled with snow. To the N. this ridge descends perpendicularly 
 to a depth of 2-3000 ft. to the Yalle del Bove , round which 
 the traveller proceeds by the Piano del Lago , after a short but 
 precipitous part of the ascent. As we approach the Casa Etnea 
 (9603 ft.), the mules begin to show signs of fatigue and impatience 
 to reach their destination. This house, which is almost in- 
 dispensable to the climber of TEtna, was erected by order of several 
 English officers at the beginning of the century during the oc- 
 cupation of Sicily, whence it was formerly called Casa degV Inglesi. 
 After having stood for fifty years, during which it had been main- 
 tained chiefly by the brothers Qemellaro of Nicolosi, the hut was 
 repaired on the occasion of the visit of the crown-prince Humbert 
 of Italy in 1862. In future it will be kept in repair by the Italian 
 Alpine Club. It contains at present a table, chairs, straw-beds 
 for six travellers, and a fireplace, and numerous improvements 
 
 22 * 
 
340 Route 40. 
 
 MOUNT .ETNA. 
 
 Crater. 
 
 are contemplated. Adjacent is a new Observatory , under the 
 superintendence of Prof. Tacchini. 
 
 We now begin the ascent of the crater, the most laborious portion 
 of the expedition. The height appears inconsiderable, but nearly 
 1000 ft. have still to be ascended. The walking on the lower 
 part of the cone, on ashes yielding at every step> is uncomfortable. 
 When the firm rock is reached, the ascent becomes easier. 
 
 In 1 hr. we attain the brink of the Crater, the form of 
 which undergoes constant alteration. At one time it consists of 
 a single profound abyss, 2-3 M. in circumference, at another it 
 is divided by a barrier into two parts, one of which only emits 
 smoke. The summit itself is usually altered by every eruption, 
 in 1861, it was on the E. side, in 1864 on the W., and even 
 ancient writers expressed their belief that the crater sank to some 
 extent after every eruption. 
 
 After a short pause the highest peak (10,835 ft.) is easily ascend- 
 ed, as the surface is soft. From this spot the Sunrise, a spectacle 
 of indescribable grandeur, should be witnessed. The summit is 
 illumined by the morning twilight whilst all below is enveloped 
 in profound obscurity. The sun still reposes in the sea, which 
 occasionally presents the appearance of a lofty bank of clouds, 
 the horizon being considerably more elevated than the spectator 
 would expect. For some time purple clouds have indicated 
 the point where the sun is about to appear. Suddenly a ray 
 of light flits across the surface of the water, gradually changing 
 to a golden streak , the lower part of which shimmers in 
 an intense purple as it widens. The beaming disc then slowly 
 emerges. The mountains of Calabria still cast their long shadows 
 on the sea; the top of .Etna alone is bathed in sunshine. The 
 light gradually descends to the lower parts of the mountain, 
 and the shadow which the vast pyramid casts over Sicily to the 
 W. deepens. The outlines of the cone and its summit are 
 distinctly recognised, forming a colossal isosceles triangle on the 
 surface of the island. After (/ 4 hr. the sublime spectacle is 
 over, and the flood of light destroys the effeot produced by the 
 shadows. The deep valleys and the precipitous coast alone remain 
 for a time in obscurity, being shaded by the loftier mountains. 
 As the sun continues to ascend, new points become visible. 
 The spectator stands at the centre of a vast circle of 260 M. in 
 diameter and 800 M. in circumference. Towards the N.E. is the 
 peninsula of Calabria, above which masses of clouds frequently 
 hover on the N., giving it the appearance of an island. The Faro 
 of Messina (the town not visible) lies at our feet, the Neptunian 
 Mts. appear like insignificant hills, and the Nebrode only a 
 degree higher. The Pizzo di Palermo, the highest point of the 
 Madonie range to the W.N.W., and the Pizzo of Corleone and 
 Cammarata to the W. are the only conspicuous points. In 
 
Valle del Bove . 
 
 MOUNT iETNA. 
 
 40. Route. 341 
 
 winter, when the atmosphere is unusually clear, the motion of 
 the waves on the shores of the island is said to be distinguish- 
 able. The coast of Africa, being below the horizon, cannot 
 possibly be visible, notwithstanding the assurances of the guides. 
 Malta, however, may be distinguished. The greater part of the E. 
 coast of the island is visible ; the Lipari islands appear to greet 
 their majestic sovereign with their columns of smoke ; the pro- 
 montory of Milazzo extends far into the sea; and numerous other 
 points, which cannot be enumerated, are descried. 
 
 After a walk round the crater, we descend rapidly to the Casa 
 Etnea and remount our mules. In descending, we make a slight 
 digression towards the E. in order to approach the upper margin of 
 the Valle del Bove ( Val del Bue on the Map), a black, desolate 
 gulf, 3 M. in width, bounded on three sides by perpendicular 
 cliffs, 2000-4000 ft. in height (left Serra delle Concazze , right 
 Serra del Solfizio), and opening towards the E. only. Geologically 
 this basin is the most remarkable part of A Etna, as its S.W. angle, 
 the so-called Balzo di Trifoglietto , where the descent is steepest 
 .and most precipitous, was very probably the original crater of the 
 mountain. — The traveller should not omit to direct the guides 
 to conduct him to the two regular cones whence an eruption in 
 1852 proceeded. 
 
 From the upper margin of the Valle del Bove we ride to 
 the Torre del Filosofo (9570 ft.), the traditional observatory of 
 Empedocles , who is said to have sought a voluntary death in 
 the crater. According to others it was used as a watch-tower 
 in ancient times. As the building is obviously of Roman con- 
 struction, it was possibly erected on the occasion of the Emperor 
 Hadrian’s ascent of the mountain to witness the sunrise. The 
 descent now recommences; the steeper portions are more pleasantly 
 and safely traversed on foot. Before reaching the plain of Nicolosi, 
 we observe the monastery of S. Niccol'o d J Arena to the left, where 
 the Benedictines of Catania used to celebrate their vintage-festival. 
 It was founded in 1156 by Simon, Count of Policastro, nephew 
 of Roger I. 
 
 Instead of returning to Catania, the traveller may prefer to 
 proceed from Nicolosi by Pedara Via Grande and Acireale , and 
 thence by the high-road to Giardini (p. 321). 
 
 The five craters of 1865 are generally visited by proceeding from 
 Giarre (p. 326) to the N. side of the Valle del Bove, where the very 
 symmetrically shaped crater of Monte Frumento (9330 ft.) lies. 
 
 The most convenient starting-point for a visit to the scene of the 
 eruption of 1879 is Randazzo (p. 328). Pasquale Pillera, one of 
 the guides here, was Prof. Silvestri’s companion when he witnessed 
 the eruption. 
 
342 
 
 41. From Catania to Syracuse. 
 
 54V2 M. Railway , two trains daily in 3!/2 hrs. ; fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 
 95, 4 fr. 95 c. — Steamboat once weekly (Mond. 11 a, m.) in 4 hrs. ; thence 
 to Malta, see p. 358. 
 
 The railway intersects the Piano di Catania , the Campi Lae - 
 strygonii , which Cicero extols as the ‘uberrima pars Siciliae’, 
 and which are still regarded as the granary of the island. To the 
 right lies the village of Misterbianco. 
 
 5 M. Bicocca , junction for Girgenti and Palermo (R. 32). 10 M. 
 Passo Martino. The train crosses the Simeto (Symaethus), and beyond 
 it the Gurnalunga. Lower down, these streams unite to form the 
 Giarretta. In winter the whole plain is frequently under water, 
 and the high-road impassable. Malaria prevails in the lower parts 
 in summer. The railway traverses the hilly ground. 
 
 16M. Valsavoia (diligence to Caltagirone, see p.298). The 
 train now approaches the Lake of Lentini (Biviere di Lentini), 
 frequented by innumerable waterfowl in winter. This lake, the 
 largest in Sicily, did not exist in ancient times. It is usually swollen 
 in winter, while in summer its exhalations poison the atmosphere 
 (Lentini is therefore to be avoided as a resting-place for the night). 
 Its circumference varies from 9^2 to 12 4 / 2 M., according to the 
 height of the water. 
 
 18 M. Lentini. The town is about 3 M. from the station. 
 
 Lentini (Caffh and Trattoria Trinacria ), a town with 10,600 inhab., the 
 ancient Leontinoi , one of the earliest Greek settlements in Sicily, was founded 
 in B.C. 729 by colonists from Naxos under Theocles, simultaneously with 
 Catana. A century later the transition from oligarchy to democracy was 
 succeeded by the establishment of a tyranny by Pansetius, who is said 
 to have been the first tyrant in Sicily. After another century it suc- 
 cumbed to Hippocrates, tyrant of Gela, and thus became subject to the 
 tyrants Gelon, Hiero, and Thrasybulus of Syracuse. It afterwards regained 
 its independence, but was again subdued by Syracuse, and to some extent 
 gave rise to the war with Athens. Gorgias, the great orator and sophist, 
 was a native of Leontinoi (480-380), and it was by his persuasive eloquence, 
 as is well known, that the Athenians were induced to intervene in the 
 quarrels of the Sicilians. After the disastrous issue of the war, Leontinoi 
 continued subject to Syracuse; but Timoleon at length expelled the tyrant 
 Hicetas and restored its independence. In the 3rd cent, it came into 
 the power of Hiero II., whose successor Hieronymus lost his life here. 
 Polybius, who records this event, at the same time describes the situation 
 of the town. It appears to have lain to the S.W. of the present town, 
 and not where local topographers usually place it. Under the Romans 
 it was of little importance. The Saracens gained possession of it at an 
 early period. In the middle ages the fortress was besieged several times, 
 and bravely defended. The town and castle were almost totally destroyed 
 by the earthquake of 1693. 
 
 A road ascends in long windings from Lentini to Carlentini , a poor 
 town with 5500 inhab., founded by Charles V. (whence the name). 
 
 From Lentini, or from Augusta, a visit may be paid to the tomb-ca- 
 verns of Pantalica , to the N. of Palazzolo (p. 302) ; carriage there and back 
 in one day 25 fr. 
 
 The train now turns to the E. towards the coast, following the 
 valley of the 8. Lionardo (the Terias of the ancients), which it 
 afterwards crosses. This river, now an insignificant stream in 
 
AUGUSTA. 
 
 41. Route. 343 
 
 a shallow valley bounded by limestone hills , was down to the 
 12th cent, navigable for sea-going vessels as far as Lentini. 
 
 24 M. Agnone. To the left the so-called Pantano , a marshy 
 pond, becomes visible. 
 
 31 M. Brucoli. The line skirts the lofty coast. Large salt-works 
 are passed. At the mouth of the Porcari (the ancient Pantacyas ), 
 which here breaks its way through the hills, lay Trotilon , one of 
 the earliest Greek settlements in Sicily. 
 
 3fr/2 M. Augusta, or Agosta, as it was named until recently, 
 a fortified seaport with 11,900 inhab., was founded by Frederick II. 
 in 1232, and peopled with the inhabitants of Centorbi (p. 297), 
 which was destroyed in 1233. It occupies the site of the ancient 
 Xiphonia. The town was conquered and destroyed several times 
 in the middle ages. In 1676 it was taken by the French, and 
 Duquesne here defeated De Ruyter, who died of his wounds at 
 Syracuse. In 1693 the town was severely damaged by the earthquake. 
 
 The railway follows the coast. The Megarean Bay of antiquity, 
 extending from the Capo Santa Croce , E. of Augusta, to the Capo 
 S. Panagia near Syracuse, was formerly bordered with a number of 
 towns. Here from N. to S. lay Xiphonia , Megara Hyblaea , and 
 Alabon. Megara Hyblaea, which was situated between the mouths 
 of the Alcantara and S. Gusmano , was founded in 728 by colonists 
 from Megara Nisaea, conquered and destroyed by Gelon , but re- 
 erected after the Athenian and Syracusan war as an outlying fort 
 of Syracuse. 
 
 On the hills to the right lies the small town of Melilli , where 
 the Hyblaean honey, so highly extolled by the poets, was produced. 
 On 1st and 2nd May a vast concourse of people assembles at 
 Melilli to offer thanks to St. Sebastian for the miraculous cures 
 effected by him, and to celebrate his festival. 
 
 44 M. Priolo ; the village lies to the right. To the left is 
 the peninsula of Magnisi , connected with the mainland by a narrow 
 isthmus. This was the peninsula of Thapsus , well known in 
 connection with the Athenian campaign. The Athenian fleet lay to 
 the N. of the isthmus. Salt-works are now situated here. 
 
 About O/2 M. from Priolo stands the ‘ Torre del Marcello 1 , probably 
 the remains of a tomb, but commonly reputed to be a trophy erected here 
 by Marcellus on the site of his camp after the conquest of Syracuse. 
 
 The train now skirts the Trogilus , the bay where the fleet 
 of Marcellus lay, and approaches the terrace which extended from 
 the Belvedere to Capo S. Panagia and bore the N. Dionysian town- 
 wall of the Achradina. It crosses the wall near the Tyche quarter 
 of the town, runs eastwards to Capo S . Panagia , and finally skirts 
 the precipitous E. margin of the bare, rocky plateau. Passing the 
 (r.) Capuchin Monastery with its Latomia, we at length reach — 
 
 54^2 M. Stat. Siracusa, 3 / 4 M. from the town (one-horse 
 carriage 90 c., two-horse 1 fr. 20 c. 5 at night 1 fr. 40 or 1 fr. 70 c.). 
 
344 
 
 42. Syracuse. 
 
 Hotels, all of moderate pretensions. Locanda del Sole (PI. a^ A, 2), 
 near the quay, commanding a fine view, R. 2 1 /^ D. 41/2, B. D/4, L. l /2 fr. ; 
 Vittoria (PI. b^ B, 2), in the town, without view, D. 5 fr. ; Alb. dTtalia, 
 Corso Vitt. Emanucle, unpretending, R. 1 fr. — The custodian Salvatore 
 Politi, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 15, also has several clean rooms, and provides 
 good food (pension 7 fr.). 
 
 Restaurants. The hotels also contain restaurants, where Muscalo , 
 Amarena , Isold Bianco , and other excellent Syracusan wines may he pro- 
 cured , and where a fish-dinner may be ordered. Among the favourite 
 varieties of fish are the Rivetto (large , but delicate) , Salamone , Dentici 
 (so called from its large teeth), and Palamito (resembling salmon). — The 
 Trattoria Roma , Via Roma, may also be mentioned. 
 
 Cafe. * Croce di Savoia , Piazza del Duomo. — Near the piazza is a 
 Club , well supplied with Italian newspapers, to which visitors are readily 
 admitted. 
 
 Cabs. From the station to the town, see p. 343. — Drive in the town, 
 with one horse 50 c., with two horses 80 c. ; at night 1 fr. or 1 fr. 30 c. — 
 Per hour D/2 or 2 fr., at night 2 or 2*/2 fr. •, each additional half-hour 60 
 or 80 c., and 80 c. or 1 fr. — Luggage 20 c., if over a hundredweight 40 c. 
 
 Guides. Salvatore Politi , custodian of the Museum, where he is to be 
 found daily *, fee about 5 fr. for the whole day, 3-4 fr. for half-a-day $ he 
 also procures carriages at 12 fr. for a whole day , 6-8 fr. for half-a-day, 
 and offers photographs, coins, drawings on papyrus, etc. for sale. Michel 
 Angelo Politi , another guide, speaks a little French, and Felice Valerio , 
 at the Alb. Vittoria, speaks English, French, and Spanish. Gabriele Vairo 
 is also recommended. 
 
 Donkeys, about 3 fr. per day. 
 
 Boats. To the Cyane (p. 357) 6-8 fr. $ to the mouth of the Anapo only, 
 l l /2-2 fr. — The boatmen here are generally less extortionate in their 
 demands' than those in other parts of Italy. To or from the steamboats 
 1/2 fr. for each person. Ferry from the town to the Sicilian coast (Pozzo 
 degli Ingegneri) or across the small harbour to the N., 25 c. *, pedestrians 
 thus effect a considerable saving. 
 
 Steamboats of the Florio Co. on Tuesdays and Fridays at 2 p.m. to 
 Catania, Messina, and Palermo \ on Monday evenings to Terranova, Licata, 
 Girgenti, Sciacca, Trapani, and Palermo (see p. 273). On Sundays and 
 Wednesdays at 11 p. m. to Malta (see p. 358). 
 
 Diligences daily at 8 a. m. to Noto and Vittoria (p. 303), and to 
 Palazzolo and Buccheri (p. 302). Office for the former line at the Post 
 Office (PI. 11 ; D. 3), Piazza del Duomo ; for the latter in the Strada Piazza. 
 
 Attractions. If the traveller has one day only at his disposal , he 
 .should devote a few hours only to the modern town, and the rest of the 
 day to the ancient city ; and he should not omit to visit the Greek theatre 
 at sunset. The chief points of the ancient town may be visited by carriage 
 in 6-8 hrs. — Two days at least should, however, be devoted to Syracuse 
 if possible , and in this case an excursion may be made to the valley of 
 the Anapo. There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and 
 with the aid o-f the following directions the most interesting points may 
 be found without a guide. 
 
 Syracuse , which was in ancient times the most important town 
 in Sicily, and indeed the most important of all the Hellenic cities, 
 now contains 22,000 inhab. only. It is situated on an island close 
 to the coast, and is the seat of a prefect and a bishop, but its trade 
 is unimportant. The hay on the W. side of the town is the Porto 
 Grande , the entrance to which between the S. extremity of the 
 island and the opposite promontory of Massolivieri , the ancient 
 Plemmyrion , is 1300 yds. in width. The N. hay is named the 
 
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History . 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 42. Route. 345 
 
 Small Harbour. During the height of its prosperity Syracuse 
 contained no fewer than 500,000 inhab., and it extended over a 
 large tract of the lofty coast to the N.W. — This is one of the most 
 interesting points in Sicily, its natural beauties vying with its great 
 classical attractions. 
 
 Syracuse was founded in 734 by Corinthians under Archias on the island 
 of Ortygia, where a Phoenician settlement had probably been established 
 at an earlier period. The Sikelian inhabitants were reduced to the con- 
 dition of serfs, and compelled to cultivate the soil. The government was 
 conducted by the aristocracy, the descendants of the founders, who were 
 called Gamores. Owing to the fertility of the soil, the colony rapidly 
 rose to prosperity, and within 70 years after its establishment founded 
 Acrse (Palazzolo) and Henna (Castrogiovanni), and 20 years later Casmenee. 
 (It is probable , however, that Henna was of later origin.) Camarina 
 was founded in 599. The final issue of the contests carried on with 
 varying success between the nobles and the people was, that Gelon in 485 
 extended his supremacy from Gela to Syracuse, to which he transferred 
 his residence. He contributed in every respect to the aggrandisement 
 of the city, and, after he had in conjunction with Theron defeated the 
 Carthaginians at Himera in 480, the golden era of the Greek supremacy 
 in Sicily began. During a long series of years the fortunes of the whole 
 island were now interwoven with those of Syracuse. Gelon, who reigned 
 for seven years only, was, after his death in' 478, revered as a demigod 
 and the ‘second founder of the city’. 
 
 He was succeeded by his brother Hiero I. whose rule was characterised 
 by the same energy and good fortune. He defeated the formidable Etruscans 
 (p. 105) near Cumse ; and at his court AEschylus , Pindar , Simonides , 
 Epicharmus , Sophron , and Bacchylides flourished. After a reign of eleven 
 years only he was succeeded by Thrasybulus , the youngest of the three 
 brothers. 
 
 Notwithstanding his army of 15,000 mercenaries , Thrasybulus was 
 banished from the city in the year of his accession (367), and a Democracy 
 was established. In the conflicts with the Sikelian prince Ducetius and 
 the Acragantines the army of Syracuse maintained its superiority, and the 
 supremacy of the city gradually extended over a great part of the island. 
 
 Syracuse was afterwards reduced to great extremities by the Athenians, 
 whose aid had been invoked by the Egestans. In B.C. 415 they accordingly 
 sent a fleet of 134 triremes to Sicily under Nicias and Lamachus , hoping 
 to conquer the island and thus extend their supremacy over the western 
 Mediterranean. At first the Athenians were successful , especially in the 
 summer of 414 when they stormed the loftily situated Epipolse, and almost 
 entirely surrounded the city with a double wall, extending from the 
 Trogilus to the great harbour. The beleaguered city was on the point 
 of capitulating when the Spartan Gylippus , who had landed on the N. side 
 of the island with a small army, came to its relief, and succeeded in 
 making his way into it through an opening in the Athenian wall. With 
 his aid the citizens gradually recovered strength, and gained possession of 
 the Plemmyrium , the promontory at the entrance to the harbour opposite 
 Ortygia, and then occupied by Nicias. Once more, indeed, the nautical 
 skill of the Athenians enabled them to defea-t the Syracusan fleet off the 
 harbour, and they erected a trophy on the small island of La Galera 
 below Plemmyrium ; but this was their last success. In another naval 
 battle the Syracusans were victorious , while the prospects of the Athe- 
 nians were but temporarily improved by the arrival of Demosthenes with 
 auxiliaries. A desperate attempt made by the latter by night to capture 
 the heights of Epipolse, and thus to avoid the Syracusan intrenchments 
 which confined the Athenians to the vicinity of the Great Harbour, was 
 repulsed with great slaughter. Disease broke out among the Athenians, 
 and their misfortunes were aggravated by dissensions among their generals. 
 The retreat was finally determined on , but was frustrated by an eclipse 
 of the moon (27th Aug. 413). The Syracusans then resolved to endeavour 
 
346 Route 42 . 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 History . 
 
 to annihilate their enemy. They were again victorious in a naval battle, 
 and enclosed their harbour by a series of vessels, anchored and connected 
 by chains across the entrance, 8 stadia in width. The decisive encounter 
 now approached. The two land-armies were stationed on the bank of 
 the harbour and stimulated the combatants by loud shouts, whilst the 
 fluctuating tide of success elicited alternate expressions of joy and grief, 
 which have been so graphically described by Thucydides as resembling 
 the surging of a dramatic chorus. The Athenians were overpowered. 
 On the following day the crews refused to attempt again to force a 
 passage, and on the third day the retreat was commenced by land in the 
 direction of the interior of the island. To the W. of Floridia , however, 
 the pass was obstructed , and the ill - fated Athenians were compelled 
 to return to the coast. Here they were overtaken by the Syracusans. 
 Demosthenes with 6000 men was compelled to surrender, and after a 
 fearful struggle on the Assinarus , near Noto, Nicias met with the same 
 fate. Few escaped. The generals were executed , and the prisoners 
 languished for eight months in the Latomise, after which the survivors 
 were sold as slaves , with the exception of a few who are said to have 
 been set at liberty on account of their skill in reciting the verses of 
 Euripides. Thus was the power of mighty Athens shattered against 
 the walls of Syracuse, never again to recover its ancient prestige; and 
 Thucydides justly observes that — ‘this event was the most important 
 which befel the Greeks during this war (the Peloponnesian), or indeed 
 in any others in Greek history which are known to us. 1 
 
 A few years after the deliverance of the city from these extremities 
 the Carthaginians overran the island. This new and imminent danger was 
 the occasion of the rise of Dionysius /., who presided over the fortunes of 
 the city with great ability from 406 to 367. Himilco, who besieged the 
 city from the Plemmyrium and the Olympieium, was fortunately driven 
 away by a pestilence in 396. Dionysius then chastised the allies of the 
 Carthaginians, and fortified, extended, and greatly embellished the city. 
 His sway embraced the greater part of Sicily and Magna Grsecia, and his 
 influence in the affairs of Greece itself was so great that he was regarded 
 as the most powerful prince of his time next to the king of Persia. 
 
 His son Dionysius II. possessed the vices without the virtues of his 
 father. In 356 he was banished by his uncle Dion , and again, on his return 
 to the city after the assassination of Dion, by Timoleon in 343. The latter 
 re-established the republic , and introduced new colonists from Greece. 
 After his death in 336, however, the independence of the Syracusans again 
 began to decline. 
 
 In 317 the tyrant Agathocles from Thermae (Termini) usurped the 
 supreme power, and retained it until his death (by poison) in 289. He was a 
 talented monarch, but a characteristic example of the moral depravity of 
 the Greeks of his time — cruel, faithless, and full of fantastic schemes. 
 Whilst he was engaged in besieging Carthage, Hamilcar attacked Syracuse 
 (310), but unsuccessfully. The sway of Agathocles extended to Lower Italy 
 also. On his death the republican form of government was re-established, 
 but in 288 Hicetas usurped the tyranny, and was assassinated in 279. His 
 murderers invited Pyrrhus of Epirus, son-in-law of Agathocles, from Italy, 
 who arrived in 278 and conquered nearly the whole island. He gave dissatis- 
 faction, however, to the Syracusans, and retui-ned to Italy in 276. 
 
 On the departure of Pyrrhus the general Hiero II. became king, and 
 under him Syracuse enjoyed its last period of prosperity (275-216). Theo- 
 critus, the father of bucolic poetry, and Archimedes , the mathematician, 
 were among the eminent men who lived at his court. He was unable, 
 however, to wrest Messana from the Mamertines, who threw themselves 
 upon the protection of Rome. In the First Punic War, which then ensued, 
 Hiero at first took the part of the Carthaginians, but afterwards entered 
 into a treaty with the Romans, whose faithful ally he remained for the 
 rest of his life. Under the auspices of Hiero was constructed a magnificent 
 and famous vessel which has been described by Athenseus. 
 
 Hieronymus , Hiero’s successor, allied himself with the Carthaginians, 
 and after his assassination the city was held by Carthaginian agents. It 
 
History. 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 42. Route. 347 
 
 was therefore besieged by Marcellus in 214-212, and was defended against 
 his attacks on the N. and from the sea by the celebrated Archimedes. 
 During the celebration of a festival, some of the bravest Romans scaled 
 the walls of Tyclie (by the Trogilus harbour) and, proceeding along the 
 summit, captured Hexapylon , which had been erected by Dionysius. Tyche y 
 Neapolis , and the Epipolae thus fell into the hands of Marcellus, but the 
 island and the Achradina were not yet overcome. Whilst he was attack- 
 ing the Achradina in its entire length on the W. the besieged quitted the 
 island in order to aid in repelling the attack. This contingency was anti- 
 cipated by a traitor, who introduced the crew of a Roman vessel into the 
 town by means of the Arethusa, and conducted them to Achradina. The 
 city was plundered, and Archimedes slain by a soldier who did not know 
 him. In order to paralyse the city’s power of resistance, Marcellus caused 
 the island, which since the erection of Achradina had been connected 
 with the mainland, to be again separated, and united with it by a bridge 
 only, at the same time forbidding the Syracusans to inhabit it. 
 
 After the enormous booty, comprising valuable works of art, had been 
 conveyed to Rome, Syracuse sank to the condition of a Roman provincial 
 town. Cicero, indeed, describes it as the ‘largest of Greek, and the most 
 beautiful of all cities’, but this was little more than an echo of the testimony 
 of earlier writers in happier days. It was so reduced by the civil war between 
 Pompey and Octavian that the latter, on his accession to the throne, found 
 it necessary to re-people it with a new colony. The Apostle Paul spent 
 three days at Syracuse on his journey to Rome, and, although he did not 
 found a Christian community there, it is certain that Christianity was estab- 
 lished in the city at a very early period. According to tradition, St. Peter 
 is said to have sent St. Marcian hither from Antioch in the year 44, for 
 the purpose of preaching Christianity. 
 
 As early as A.D. 278, Syracuse was plundered by a band of Franks 
 who had escaped from captivity on the shores of the Black Sea. Beli- 
 sarius took the place in 535 and made it the capital of the island , and 
 Constantins in 663-68 even transferred the seat of government thither. One 
 year later it was plundered by Abd-Allah-ibn-Kais. In 828, when the 
 Byzantine general Euphemius invited the Saracens to Sicily, they arrived 
 at Syracuse, and pitched their camp in the Latomiee , commanded by 
 Asad-ibn-Forat , but were soon compelled to raise the siege. In 878 the city 
 at last succumbed to Ibrahim-ibn- Ahmed after a siege of nine months. The 
 monk Theodosius gives an appalling account of the distress of the besieged 
 and the ferocity of the victors. The spoil they obtained here was greater 
 than that yielded them by any other conquest. 
 
 Since that period Syracuse has been a place of little importance. With 
 the aid of the Normans the town was again taken by the Byzantine general 
 Maniaces , but was soon recaptured by the Saracens. Ibrahim-ibn- Thimna, 
 the Saracen commandant in Syracuse, subsequently invited the Normans 
 to Sicily, and in 1085 the latter took Syracuse, and strengthened the castle 
 which the Saracens had erected to command the isthmus. In this fortress 
 Queen Bianca of Castile was besieged by Bernard Cabrera in 1410. Charles 
 V. established an arsenal at Syracuse, and caused the fortifications of the 
 isthmus to be constructed with materials from the ruins of the theatre 
 and other Greek edifices. Here in 1676, after the battle of Agosta, the 
 celebrated naval hero Be Ruyter died, and was interred in the Plemmyrium. 
 
 In 1837 the Neapolitan government transferred the prefecture from 
 Syracuse to Noto. In 1865, however, the city was again raised to the 
 rank of the capital of a province, and it now begins to recover a little 
 of its ancient importance. 
 
 A few only of the attractions of Syracuse lie within the modern 
 town, most of them being situated on the rocky plateau to the N.W., 
 the site of the ancient city. 
 
348 Route 42. 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 Museum. 
 
 I. Modern Syracuse. 
 
 Cathedral (Temple of Minerva), Museum , Arethusa , Temple of Diana. 
 
 The present town , as already stated , occupies the island of 
 Ortygia , which formed hut a small part of the site of the ancient 
 city. The approach to it from the coast is defended by a now dilap- 
 idated Citadel of the time of Charles V., the towers of which com- 
 mand a noble prospect (permission from the officer on guard). The 
 extremity of the island is also protected by fortifications. The town 
 is closely and irregularly built. It is traversed lengthwise by two 
 somewhat winding main streets , intersected by a third, the Yia 
 Maestranza. The cathedral-square adjoins the Yia Cavour, the 
 westernmost of the two long streets. 
 
 The Cathedral (PI. 5; B,3) stands on the site of a Doric temple, 
 the columns of which with their capitals are still seen projecting 
 from the sides of the church. The temple was a peripteral hexastyle 
 on abasement of three steps, about 61 yds. in length, and 24 yds 
 in width. Of the thirty-six columns thirteen are still visible on the 
 N. and nine on the S. side. They are 28 ft. in height and 6^2 ft. 
 in thickness. It is not known to what deity the temple was dedi- 
 cated, but from its proximity to the Arethusa, it was perhaps a 
 temple of Diana. Local tradition calls it a Temple of Minerva ; 
 but the temple of that goddess, described by Cicero in his speeches 
 against Yerres as a sumptuous edifice containing the most costly 
 treasures, is supposed by several authorities to have stood at the 
 S.E. extremity of the island. The interior of the cathedral is of 
 no great interest. The pilasters separating the nave from the aisles 
 occupy the place of the ancient walls of the cella. The font, 
 formerly in S. Giovanni, consists of an antique marble basin with 
 traces of a Greek inscription. 
 
 The Museum (PI. 8 ; B, 3), situated opposite the N. side of the 
 cathedral, Piazza Minerva No. 10, in the corner, is open daily 
 9-1 and 3.30-5 o’clock. The director is Cav. Arezzo di Targia ; the 
 custodian Salv. Politi (p. 344). The collection is arranged in a 
 room of very inadequate size, on the ground-floor, to the left (fee 
 of a few soldi to the porter). 
 
 The most interesting object in the collection is the * Statue of 
 Venus , found by M. Landolina in 1804 in the Bonavia garden *, the exe- 
 cution is admirable and the figure , somewhat above life-size , is almost 
 entirely preserved except the head ; the character is that of the early 
 ideals of Venus. A colossal * Head of Zeus , an ancient Male Torso , a 
 Greek Tomb Relief (boy and elderly man), and a Statue of JSsculapius are 
 also noteworthy. Then a Head of Medusa in bronze , an early Christian 
 sarcophagus with numerous figures and traces of painting, found in the 
 catacombs of S. Giovanni and dating from the beginning of the 5th cent. ; 
 inscriptions, vases, terracottas, and Roman statues from the Bufardeci 
 garden (p. 351), of inferior interest. 
 
 Above the museum is a Library with 9000 vols. and a few MSS., 
 open 10-12. 
 
 From the S. angle of the Piazza del Duomo the Yia Maniaci leads 
 us in 3 min. to the mythological Fountain of Arethusa (PI. B, 5), 
 
Achradina. 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 42. Route. 349 
 
 which has recently been enclosed in a semicircular basin. The 
 nymph Arethusa , pursued hither from Elis by the river - god 
 Alpheus, is said to have been metamorphosed by Diana into this 
 fountain. The Greeks may have discovered and thus named a 
 natural spring on the rocky island, but this fountain, which still 
 pours an abundant stream into its basin, embellished with papyrus- 
 plants, is most probably supplied by one of the remarkable con- 
 duits which pass under the small harbour and bring water to the 
 town from the Achradina. Many other shafts of these conduits are 
 also observed in the island, such as the Pozzo di S. Filippo. The 
 gate leading to the fountain is opened, if desired, by the custodian 
 who lives near (5 soldi). 
 
 The Passeggiata Aretusa (PI. A, 3, 4) affords a pleasant walk and 
 a view of the harbour and Mt. ^Etna. 
 
 The ruins of a so-called Temple of Diana (PI. 15 ; B, 1) in the 
 Casa Santoro , in the Vico di S. Paolo (key kept by Salv. Politi), 
 are more probably those of a temple of Apollo. This very remark- 
 able Greek temple, the front part of which recent excavations have 
 brought to light , was a peripteral hexastyle of unusual length, 
 and must have been flanked by at least nineteen columns on each 
 side. A very early inscription on the highest step of the basement, 
 unfortunately mutilated, is supposed to refer to the foundation of 
 the edifice and its dedication to Apollo, whose name it contains. 
 
 The other antiquities in the town (remains of baths, etc.) are 
 of inferior interest. Among the numerous remains of mediaeval 
 architecture, the * Palazzo Montalto (PI. 10 ; B, 2) deserves mention. 
 The castle at the S.E. extremity of the island contains a Gothic 
 portal , permission to see which may be obtained through an officer 
 of the garrison. — Above the Porta Marina are ornaments in the 
 Saracenic style. 
 
 II. Ancient Syracuse. 
 
 Syracuse was the largest of the Hellenic cities. Strabo states 
 that its circumference was 180 stadia (20 M.). It consisted of five 
 distinct portions : — 
 
 1 . The island Ortygia, the oldest part of the city. 
 
 2. The town on the precipitous coast to the N. of the island, 
 called the Achradina, one-half being situated on the plateau of 
 limestone-rock, the other half between the latter and the great har- 
 bour, excluding a small portion on the N. bank of the small har- 
 bour which Dionysius had enclosed with a lofty wall and added to 
 the island. To the latter belonged the Small Harbour (sometimes 
 erroneously called the Marble Harbour ), which lay between the wall 
 and the island. — The W. wall of the Achradina (‘Muro Antico’ 
 on the Plan) constructed by Gelon , may still be traced by the rem- 
 nants which extend towards the S. from the tonnara of S. Panagia. 
 Near the point where the roads from Noto and Floridia converge, 
 
350 Route 42. 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 Epipolae. 
 
 the wall of the Achradina probably abutted on the Great Harbour , 
 which was also flanked with quays. Towards the sea this secure part 
 of the town, which could never be reduced by violence , was de- 
 fended by a lofty wall. Here were the Market (‘Agora’) with Colon- 
 nades , the Curia , where the national assemblies were held, the 
 Pentapylon and the Prytaneum. The latter lay opposite to the 
 island, to the right of the present road to Catania (see p. 351), 
 where the Timoleonteum , with stadium and hippodrome , and a 
 Temple of Zeus Olympius also rose. 
 
 It is not easy to determine with equal certainty the limits of the 
 other parts of the city which lay to the W. of the Achradina, on the 
 plateau, which contracts as it extends upwards towards the Epipolse 
 or fortress. 
 
 3. Tyche , on the N. side, derived its name from a temple of 
 Fortune. 
 
 4. Neapolis, situated to the S. , on the terrace above the great 
 harbour, and which during the Roman period descended to the 
 plain as far as the left side of the road to Floridia , was named Te- 
 menides at the time of the Athenian siege. Here were situated the 
 Greek Theatre , the so-called Ara , the Roman Amphitheatre , the 
 Baths in the garden of Bufardeci , the Latomia del Paradiso and 
 of S. Venera , and the Street of Tombs. 
 
 5. The Epipol.e , the highest point of the city, formed the W. 
 angle of the trilateral plateau, and was so named by the Syracusans, 
 as we are informed by Thucydides, from being ‘above the city’. At 
 the time of the Athenian siege this point was as yet unconnected 
 with the city, although not left unguarded. The Athenians took it 
 by storm , constructed Labdalon , an intrenchment on the N. side, 
 and erected a wall extending from the harbour Trogilus in a curve 
 round Achradina , Tyche , and the Temenites to the great harbour. 
 
 The merit of surrounding these four districts by a City-wall , 
 constructed of huge blocks of stone, is due to Dionysius I. The N. 
 portion was probably erected about 402. Within 20 days, it is said, 
 60,000 workmen with 6000 yoke of oxen constructed 30 stadia 
 (31/2 M.) of the wall, but the work was not completed till 385. 
 
 The whole of the enclosed space could not have been covered with 
 houses, but every trace of buildings having completely disappeared , the 
 only clue to the extent to which the ground was so occupied consists of the 
 number of wells, which still exist. Two vast Aqueducts supplied the city, 
 one of which was fed, high among the mountains, by the Buttigliara , an 
 affluent of the Anapus , whence it conveyed the water by subterranean 
 channels, several miles long, up to the level of the Epipolse. It is there 
 seen flowing near the summit uncovered, after which it is precipitated 
 from the height near the theatre, and finally empties itself into the har- 
 bour. The other aqueduct descends from Monte Crimiti , the Thymbris of 
 Theocritus, and also ascends to the level of the Epipolse , after which it 
 skirts the N. city-wall, sending several branches southwards to the Achra- 
 dina. It then turns to the S., proceeding along the coast, descends under 
 the small harbour, and finally emerges as Arethusa on the island. Since 
 the earthquake of 1169 its water has been salt. In calm weather in 
 winter the spot may be distinguished in the small harbour where the 
 
Amphitheatre. SYRACUSE. 42. Route. 351 
 
 water wells upwards from below , at the point where the damaged part 
 of the aqueduct lies. The course of this channel is traced by means of 
 the numerous rectangular apertures hewn in the rocky plateau, in which, 
 far below, flowing water is detected. As these openings (spiragli) do not 
 occur for a long way between the Epipolse and the other parts of the 
 town, we may assume that this space (now called Terracati ) was unin- 
 habited. The Athenians , as is well known , cut off the supply of one 
 aqueduct. The point where this was effected is said to be recognisable 
 between Euryalus and Belvedere. 
 
 Crossing the fortifications of the inner, and then (7 min.) those 
 of the outer town-gate, we come in 5 min. more to a circular space 
 from which three roads diverge. That to the left leads to Noto 
 (p. 304); that in a straight direction is the Floridia and Palazzolo 
 road , which leads to the railway-station and Fort Euryalus (comp, 
 p. 353). The road to the right forks after a few hundred paces, the 
 right and narrower branch leading to the Cappuccini (p. 355), and 
 the left branch to Catania. The latter divides the ancient city 
 into two nearly equal parts : on the E. (right) lies the Achradina , 
 on the W. (left) Neapolis and Epipolae , to the N. Tyche . Our de- 
 scription begins with the more important and interesting W. half. 
 
 In tbe Bufardeci Garden , near the railway-station , the remains of a 
 Roman palaestra, now named Bagno Bufardeci, were excavated in 1864. 
 Among the interesting ruins are fragments of a handsome entablature. 
 Beyond this is visible the wall of the Roman Neapolis, on the other side 
 of which an ancient street has been discovered. 
 
 a. Western Portion. 
 
 Amphitheatre. Hecatomb Altar. Latomia del Paradiso and di Sta. Venera. 
 
 Theatre. Street of Tombs. Euryalus. 
 
 In a meadow , a few hundred paces to the right of the above- 
 named circular space outside the fortifications , we observe an un- 
 fluted column, which is probably a fragment of the magnificent an- 
 cient forum (Agora). Not far from this column passes the road to 
 Catania , from which the road to the Cappuccini immediately di- 
 verges to the right (see p. 354). 
 
 The Catania road then crosses the railway and ascends gradually. 
 After V 2 M., at the point where we observe the rose-window of the 
 church of S. Giovanni (p. 355) on the right, our road is crossed by 
 another. Following the latter to the left we reach (5 min.) a small 
 osteria and the house of the Custode delle Antichita. Adjacent is 
 a Roman fish-pond. (The services of the custodian are necessary 
 for the Latomia only , but he also accompanies visitors to the Am- 
 phitheatre and the Greek Theatre ; i/ 2 fr.) 
 
 Opposite the custodian’s house a path to the left leads in a few 
 minutes to the Amphitheatre, a Roman structure of the period of 
 Augustus, 77 yds. in length and 44 yds. in width, and apparently 
 destitute of subterranean chambers. Numerous blocks of marble 
 from the ancient parapet lie scattered in the arena , some of them 
 bearing inscriptions with the names of the proprietors of the seats 
 which they adjoined. 
 
352 Route 42. 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 Greek Theatre. 
 
 About 150 paces farther, to the left of the path, is the (closed) 
 entrance to the great Altar of Hiero II. It is related of that mon- 
 arch that he erected an altar, a stadium (202 yds.) in length; and 
 this structure is probably the same, being 215 yds. in length and 
 25 yds. in width. Here probably were sacrificed the hecatombs of 
 450 oxen, which were annually offered to commemorate the expul- 
 sion of the tyrant Thrasybulus. 
 
 Opposite is the entrance to the *Latomia del Paradiso, an an- 
 cient quarry hewn in the rock to a depth of 35-45 yds. , and now 
 overgrown with the most luxuriant vegetation. These latomie, 
 which form one of the characteristics of Syracuse , yielded the ma- 
 terial of which the city was built. Some of them (e. g. the Latomia 
 Novantieri) are of later origin than the aqueducts. They were also 
 used as burial-places, and they sometimes formed prisons for captive 
 enemies who were compelled to work in them. On some of the iso- 
 lated masses of rock traces of the guard-houses of the sentries are 
 said to be still distinguishable (?). The Latomia del Paradiso con- 
 tains the *Ear of Dionysius, so named in the 16th cent., a grotto 
 hewn in the rock in the form of the letter S , 210 ft. deep, 74 ft. 
 in height, and 15-35 ft. in width, contracting towards the sum- 
 mit , and possessing a very remarkable acoustic peculiarity. The 
 slightest sound in the grotto is heard by persons at the upper end, 
 and produces a strong reverberation at the entrance. It is related 
 of Dionysius that he constructed prisons with such acoustic proper- 
 ties that at a certain point he could detect every word spoken in 
 them, even when whispered only, and this grotto has been arbi- 
 trarily assumed to be one of these. The custodian awakens the 
 echoes by firing a pistol (5 soldi). — The neighbouring Latomia di 
 Sta. Venera , although less interesting, is also worthy of a visit. 
 
 The road then passes under the modern arches of the aqueduct, 
 and leads past an osteria to the *Greek Theatre. This was the 
 largest Greek structure of the kind, after those of Miletus and 
 Megalopolis, and was erected in the 5th cent. B.O. It is hewn 
 in the rock in a nearly semicircular form, 165 yds. in diameter. 
 Distinct traces of forty-six tiers of seats are still visible, and it 
 is estimated that fifteen more must have extended as far as the 
 summit of the^xcavation. The nine cunei were intersected by 
 a broad and a narrow praecinctio , on the former of which are seen 
 various Greek inscriptions , recording the names of King Hiero, 
 the Queens Philistis and Nereis, and Zeus Olympius, after whom 
 the different compartments were respectively named. Philistis is 
 supposed to have been the wife of Hiero II., and Nereis to have 
 been his daughter-in-law. The eleven lower rows only were covered 
 with marble. The hill on which the theatre stands commands a 
 superb **View, particularly towards sunset, of the town, the harbour, 
 the promontory of Plemmyrium, and the expanse of the Ionian sea. 
 
 Above the theatre is the Nymphaeum , a grotto into which two 
 
Euryalus. 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 42. Route. 353 
 
 water-conduits issue. Epitaphs were formerly inserted in the sur- 
 rounding walls. To the N. is the entrance to the last sinuosity of 
 the Ear of Dionysius (see above). 
 
 From the upper part of the theatre the rock-hewn Street of the 
 Tombs (Via delle Tombe) ascends to the left. In the sides are 
 numerous cavities and tomb-chambers , all of which have been 
 despoiled of their contents and decorations. This route brings us 
 in 5 min. to the summit of the desolate plateau, which the pe- 
 destrian may traverse to (li/2-2 hrs.) Fort Euryalus. We follow the 
 broad road to the right, which follows the course of the ancient con- 
 duit, and soon contracts. To the left we enjoy a view over the plain 
 in which lay the Roman Neapolis , with the sumptuous temples of 
 Demeter and Persephone erected by Gelon in 480 with the proceeds 
 of spoil taken from the Carthaginians. On the height which we 
 now traverse were situated the ancient Neapolis and Temenites ; 
 and within the latter stood the Temenos of Apollo, with the statue 
 of the god, which Verres attempted to carry off, and which was 
 afterwards removed to Rome by Tiberius. On the right, farther 
 on , we pass the Buffalaro hill , from the quarries of which Diony- 
 sius procured stone for the city-wall. It was here that the tyrant 
 is said to have confined the poet and philosopher Philoxenus for 
 having disparaged his verses (thence named Latomia del Filosofo). 
 
 The Carriage Road to Fort Euryalus coincides at first with the 
 road to Floridia. Those who have visited the Greek Theatre by 
 carriage must , accordingly , return to the circular space mentioned 
 at p. 851. — About 3/4 M. beyond that point the road to Palazzolo 
 diverges to the left, and, 1 M. farther on, the new and well-made 
 road to the Euryalus quits that to Floridia. It then describes a cir- 
 cuit by the mill of Sinerchia , and approaches the fort from the W. 
 
 *Fort Euryalus (now called Mongibellesi) stands at the W. 
 extremity of the ancient city, at the point where the N. and S. 
 walls erected by Dionysius on the table-land converged. It ter- 
 minates towards the W. in four massive towers , flanked with 
 two deep fosses hewn in the rock. (The custodian, who keeps the 
 key of the gate , is generally on the spot. Gentlemen , however, 
 may explore the different passages without assistance.) From the 
 first of these fosses diverge a number of subterranean outlets, 
 connected with each other, and forming passages accessible to in- 
 fantry, and even cavalry, communicating with the great court be- 
 hind the towers. Another subterranean passage , lately cleared of 
 rubbish, leads to a fort situated on the line of the city-wall farther 
 N. In the rocks opposite these apertures are hollows which were 
 probably used as magazines. Those to the right contain inscrip- 
 tions of letters or numbers which have not yet been deciphered. 
 
 About V2 h r - farther is the miserable village of Belvedere (poor 
 osteria), which lies on the narrow W. ridge extending from the hill 
 of the Epipolae towards the mountains, and beyond the precincts of 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 23 
 
354 Route 42. 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 S. Lucia. 
 
 the ancient fortifications. Immediately beyond the village rises the 
 *Telegrafo (610 ft. above the sea) , a hill crowned with a conspi- 
 cuous white tower (inaccessible) , and commanding an excellent 
 survey of the site of ancient Syracuse. The view to the N. , how- 
 ever , is still finer : to the left rises the Mte. Crimiti , the ancient 
 Thymbris , on which one of the old aqueducts takes its rise ; then 
 iEtna in the distance; in the background the mountains of the E. 
 coast of Sicily, and more to the right the mountains of Calabria. 
 
 The N. side of the Epipolae is bounded by the remains of the 
 Wall of Dionysius , which active walkers and climbers may follow. 
 Numerous fine views are obtained of both land and sea. At several 
 points we encounter solitary olive-trees , in the shade of which a 
 pleasant rest may be enjoyed on one of the massive blocks of the 
 old wall. Half-way between the Euryalus and the point where the 
 road to Catania intersects the city-wall probably stood the Athenian 
 Fort of Labdalon (p. 350). In the valley below , probably on the 
 sea, lay Leon, whence the Athenians stormed the Epipolae. — 
 Those who have driven to the Euryalus and wish to visit the wall 
 of Dionysius should order the carriage to meet them at the Scala 
 Greca (p. 356). 
 
 b. Eastern Portion. 
 
 S. Lucia. Latomia de’ Cappuccini. Villa Landolina. Latomia Casale. 
 
 S. Giovanni and the Catacombs. 
 
 This part of the ancient city consists chiefly of the Achradina, 
 remains of the fortifications of which may be distinctly traced on 
 all sides. It is separated from the island of Ortygia by the Small 
 Harbour , which Dionysius formed by throwing an embankment 
 across the open sea, and the narrow entrance of which was capable 
 of being closed. 
 
 We may either follow the road diverging to the right from the 
 Catania road near the solitary column already mentioned (comp, 
 p. 351), or we may effect a considerable saving by crossing the 
 small harbour directly from the town (25 c.). Those who follow 
 the road will pass the so-called House of Agathocles , a Roman 
 building in a garden to the left, and (74 hr. from the gate) the 
 landing-place of the boats , where remains of ancient boat-houses 
 are still to be seen in the water. 
 
 At this point the road divides. The right branch skirts the 
 coast, crosses the railway-cutting by a bridge, and leads direct to 
 the Capuchin monastery (25 min.; see below). The left branch 
 crosses the railway immediately, turns to the right, and leads to- 
 wards the conspicuous campanile of Sta. Lucia, a church erected 
 in the 11th cent, on the spot where the tutelary saint of the town 
 is said to have suffered martyrdom, but frequently restored. The 
 W. Portal is the only part of the original church still existing. 
 Over the high altar , the Martyrdom of the saint, by Caravaggio. 
 
Catacombs . 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 42. Route. 355 
 
 A passage from the right transept leads past the tomb of the saint 
 to a Round Church , partly subterranean, containing a statue of the 
 saint, of the school of Bernini. — To the left of the church a 
 road leads to (8 min.) S. Giovanni (see below). 
 
 Passing to the right of S. Lucia, and after 10 min., above the 
 cypress-planted modern cemetery (Hypogeum), turning to the right 
 again, we reach (5 min.) a suppressed Capuchin Monastery , now 
 a farm, where refreshments are to be had. The neighbouring 
 *Latomia de’ Cappuccini is one of the wildest and grandest of these 
 ancient quarries, and it was here probably that the 7000 captive 
 Athenians languished (key at the farm , 30-50 c.). Negotiations 
 have recently taken place for the purchase of the monastery and 
 latomia, with a view to the erection of a large hotel. 
 
 We retrace our steps, but after 5 min., above the cemetery, we 
 go straight on by a low wall, and in 5 min. more reach a road as- 
 cending to the upper Achradina. 
 
 Following this road to the left between garden- walls for 5 min., 
 we reach the Villa Landolina (last door on the right), situated in 
 a small latomia, and containing the tomb of the German poet 
 A. v. Platen (d. 1835). — A few paces farther we reach a road 
 coming from S. Lucia; we follow it to the right, and turning to the 
 right again after 3 min. we observe the facade of S. Giovanni be- 
 fore us. 
 
 Those who do not visit the Villa Landolina cross the road men- 
 tioned above, which ascends to the Achradina, and go straight on. 
 On the right, after 5 min., is the Latomia Casale, in which the 
 Marchese Casale has laid out a flower-garden (now neglected). — 
 From this point we observe the Catania road , and to the left the 
 church of S. Giovanni. 
 
 S. Giovanni was founded in 1182, but afterwards frequently 
 restored, so that parts of the W. facade, with the rose-window and 
 the portal, are all that remain of the original building. A flight 
 of steps descends from the church to the Crypt of St. Martian, 
 which dates from the 4th century. This lower church, built in the 
 form of a Greek cross , is one of the most ancient in Sicily , and 
 stood in connection with the Catacombs. On each side is an apse, 
 except on the W. where it is approached by steps. It contains the 
 tomb of St. Marcian, who is said to have suffered martyrdom, bound 
 to one of the granite columns now placed here. On the walls are 
 the remains of old frescoes. 
 
 Near S. Giovanni is the entrance to the Catacombs. (On leav- 
 ing the church we turn to the left for a few paces and reach the 
 custodian’s house opposite a good osteria; fee 4 / 2 fr.) 
 
 The Catacombs of Syracuse are among the most imposing 
 burial-places of the kind known. The part usually visited extends 
 under the anterior terrace of the Achradina in one story, which has 
 been partially excavated for a distance of about 100 yds. It dates 
 
 23 * 
 
356 Route 42. 
 
 SYRACUSE. 
 
 Anapo. 
 
 from the 4th cent. A.D., and not from an ante-Christian period as 
 sometimes supposed. The large circular chambers , among which 
 the ‘Rotonda d’Antiochia’ is the most notable , are a peculiarity of 
 these catacombs. Of the mural decorations few traces are now 
 left. The early Christian sarcophagus in the Museum (p. 348) 
 was found here in 1872. — The upper story of the catacombs in 
 the adjacent Vigna Cassia was also constructed in the 4th cent., 
 but the lower story , to which access is now difficult , is of an 
 earlier period and seems to be very extensive. Other early Christian 
 tombs have been found between S. Lucia and the Latomia de’ 
 Cappuccini. 
 
 The Catania road passes a few hundred paces to the W. of S. 
 Giovanni ; and we reach it at the point where the above-mentioned 
 path to the Amphitheatre and the Greek Theatre diverges. — About 
 5 min. to the N. of that point , to the left of the road , are the 
 so-called Tombs of Timoleon and Archimedes , with Doric facades, 
 and arbitrarily named. The tomb of Archimedes , which was re- 
 discovered by Cicero, was probably outside the town. 
 
 If time permits , the traveller should not omit to follow the 
 Catania road to the N. as far as the point where it intersects the 
 ancient fortifications of the Tyche quarter and descends to the coast 
 (Scala Greca ), 4 M. from the town-gate. The *View thence of the 
 sea and .Etna is one of the finest near Syracuse. — We may then 
 follow the hills to the right as far as the tonnara, and return along 
 the boundary of the Achradina, the fortifications of which are still 
 partly traceable. 
 
 A charming Walk is afforded by a circuit of the various Latomie, 
 looking down upon them from above. We begin with the Latomia de' 1 Cap- 
 puccini , and proceed thence to the Latomie Casale, S. Venera (Targia), 
 Greco , and Paradiso. An interesting view of the Lat. Targia is obtained 
 from a modern aqueduct, on which we may walk. For this excursion a 
 good guide (such as JSalv. Politi) is requisite ; the detour by S. Giovanni 
 may be avoided by traversing the Abela property. 
 
 When the sea is calm, a pleasant ^Excursion by Boat (R/2-2 fr.) may 
 be taken to the caverns in the coast of the Achradina , situated beyond 
 the rocky islets of the Due Fratelli , between the small harbour and the 
 Capo Panagia (the Grotta di Nettuno and others). 
 
 III. The Anapo, Olympieum, and Cyane. 
 
 This excursion takes 3-4 hrs., and is usually made in a boat with 
 three rowers (to the Cyane Fountain 6-8 fr. and fee). If the sea is rough, 
 travellers may prefer to drive to the mouth of the Anapo. The trip up 
 the river is pleasant, but very troublesome for the boatmen owing to its 
 narrowness and the thickness of the water-plants. Walkers may ascend 
 by a small embankment on the right bank of the river as far as the 
 papyrus-plants, but the spring itself, on account of its marshy environs 
 can only be reached by boat. — The two columns of the Olympieum, 
 which are of no great interest, may be visited either in going or returning. 
 The hill can only be approached on the E., N., or N.W. side, as the 
 ground on the other sides is very marshy. 
 
 The road to Noto, which leads to the S.W. of the circular space 
 mentioned at p. 351 , runs at first within a short distance of the 
 
Fountain of Cyane. SYRACUSE. 
 
 42. Route 357 
 
 shore of the Great Harbour, traversing the swamps of Syraco and 
 Lysimelia. Beyond the 2nd kilometre-stone (U /4 M.) it crosses 
 the Anapo ( Anapus ), which rises on the hills to the W. and falls 
 into the harbour of Syracuse after a winding course of about 16 M. 
 A footpath skirts the right bank of the stream, and then ascends on 
 the bank of the Cyane brook which falls into the Anapo 2/3 M. 
 above its mouth. 
 
 On a height (60 ft. above the sea), not far from the confluence 
 of the two streams , stands a conspicuous and solitary pair of 
 columns. A rough road leads towards them from the Anapo bridge 
 in 10 min., but before it enters a hollow we take a footpath to the 
 right. These very mutilated columns, to which the path does not 
 lead the whole way, stand in the middle of the fields , and now 
 form the sole remains of the famous Olympieum , a temple of the 
 Olympian Zeus, dating from the earliest Syracusan period (pe- 
 ripteral hexastyle). Gelon provided the statue of Zeus, the beauty 
 of which is extolled by Cicero, with a golden robe from the spoil 
 of Himera, which Dionysius I. removed as being ‘too cold in winter, 
 and too heavy for summer’. — As this was a point of strategic im- 
 portance, it was usually made the basis of operations when the 
 city was besieged. In 493 Hippocrates of Gela established his head- 
 quarters here. At the beginning of the Athenian siege (415) the 
 Olympieum was taken by Nicias by a coup-de-main , but fearing 
 the wrath of the gods he did not venture to take possession of 
 the treasures it contained. At a later period the Syracusans 
 fortified it and surrounded it with a small fortified town (Po- 
 lichne) ; but this did not prevent Himilco in 396 and Hamilcar in 
 310 from pitching their camps here; and in 213 Marcellus suc- 
 ceeded in gaining possession of the spot. The surrounding marshes, 
 however, were fraught with peril to the besiegers. Fine view of 
 Syracuse. Near the Olympieum were situated the handsome tombs 
 of Gelon and his self-sacrificing wife Damarata. 
 
 The upper part of the Flume Ciani, or Cyane Brook, is remark- 
 able for the great luxuriance of the surrounding vegetation. On 
 both banks, particularly in autumn, rise lofty papyrus-plants, some 
 of them 20 ft. in height, planted here by the Arabs, and imparting 
 a strange and almost tropical character to the scene. The stream 
 has its source in the Fountain of Cyane, the ‘azure spring’, into 
 which the nymph of that name was metamorphosed for presuming 
 to oppose Pluto when he was carrying Proserpine to the infernal 
 regions. The Syracusans used to celebrate an annual festival 
 here in honour of Persephone (Proserpine). The clear spring, 
 which abounds with fish, and is bordered with papyrus, is now 
 called La Pisma . 
 
358 
 
 43. Excursion to Malta. 
 
 See Map of Sicily. 
 
 The Steamers of the Florio Co. afford a convenient opportunity of visit- 
 ing the island of Malta from Syracuse. They start twice weekly (Sun. and 
 Wed.) at 11 p. m., reach Malta about 7. 30 next morning, and quit it again 
 at 9 p. m. ; return-tickets at a reduction of 20 per cent. Fare to or from 
 the steamer 1 shilling. Fares from Malta to Tunis or Sicily must be paid 
 in gold. Passports are sometimes asked for on the traveller's arrival and 
 departure. Those who intend returning to Sicily the same evening should 
 devote the forenoon to the town (harbour, cathedral, and palace of the 
 governor), then drive to Citta Yecchia (p. 360; calesse, a kind of gig, there 
 and back 4-5 fr.). — Steamboats also ply between Malta and Tunis (So cietd 
 Rubattino) weekly in 25-30 hrs. (see p. 374) ; to Tripoli weekly in 22 hrs. ; 
 by Gibraltar to England , etc. (enquiry should be made beforehand). 
 
 The group of the islands of Malta , Gozzo , and Comino lies 
 56 M. to the S. of the coast of Sicily, 174 M. from the S. ex- 
 tremity of Italy, and 187 M. from the African coast. N. latitude 
 of La Valetta, the capital, 35° 54'; E. longitude 14° 31'. Malta is 
 20 M. in length , and 9^2 M. in breadth; Gozzo lO 1 ^ M. long and 
 5 ! / 4 M. broad; Comino l 1 /^ M. long and i 1 /^ M. broad. The high- 
 est point of Malta is 590 ft. above the sea-level. The total popu- 
 lation of the islands is 147,000 souls, of whom about 10,000 are 
 English and foreigners. The climate is hot (mean temperature in 
 January 61°, in August 95° Fahr.). The island of Malta rises pre- 
 cipitously from the sea in the form of a sterile rock, and appears at 
 first sight entirely destitute of vegetation , the fields and gardens 
 being enclosed by lofty walls and terraces of stone. Through 
 the indefatigable industry of the inhabitants in pulverising the 
 upper stratum of rock and in irrigating the soil , nearly two- 
 thirds of the barren surface have been converted into luxuriantly 
 fertile arable land. The produce yielded is rarely less than fifteen 
 to twenty-fold, whilst in some favoured spots it amounts to fifty 
 or sixty-fold. After the hay or corn-harvest in May and June 
 the land is generally sown for the second time with cotton, 
 which is also manufactured here. Fruit is very abundant, 
 especially oranges , lemons , and figs. The natives are a mixed 
 race, being descendants of the various nations who have at dif- 
 ferent periods been masters of the island. Their language is a 
 corrupt dialect of Arabic mingled with Italian (lingua Maltese ). 
 Most of the higher classes understand Italian , which is also the 
 official language in the law-courts. English, however, is used in 
 the other departments of government and spoken by the higher 
 officials. The Maltese are well known throughout the Mediter- 
 ranean as an enterprising seafaring and commercial people. Their 
 island is indebted to its central position for the great strategic 
 importance which it has ever possessed. Being a convenient 
 station on the route to the East , and boasting of an admirable har- 
 bour, the island is, like Gibraltar, one of the principal bulwarks of 
 the naval supremacy of England. The English garrison usually 
 numbers about 10,000 men. 
 
imtE 1ALTISI 
 
 1:500.000 
 
 bliiloTi».etxi' "" ' 
 
 Ta^aer &JD el) es, Leipzig 
 
MALTA. 
 
 43. Route. 359 
 
 Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of Ogygia mentioned 
 by Homer, where the nymph Calypso, the daughter of Atlas, whose cavern 
 is still pointed out, is represented as having enslaved Odysseus. The Phoe- 
 nicians of Sidon most probably founded a colony here at a very early pe- 
 riod, after which Greek settlers repaired to the island (about the year B. C. 
 736). The island , then called Melite , with a capital of the same name, 
 was conquered by the Carthaginians about B. C. 400, and afterwards (in 
 B. C. 212) fell into the hands of the Romans. The latter erected temples 
 to Apollo and Proserpine, and a theatre, a few traces of which still exist. 
 In the autumn of A.D. 61 St. Paul was wrecked on the N. coast of the 
 island, and converted several of the inhabitants to Christianity. In 454 
 Malta was conquered by the Vandals, in 464 by the Goths, in 533 by Beli- 
 sarius for the E. Empire, in 870 by the Arabs, and again in 1090 by the 
 Normans under Roger, by whom it was united with the kingdom of Sicily. 
 It then shared the fortunes of Sicily down to 1530, when the Emperor 
 Charles V. presented the island to the knights of St. John after their 
 expulsion from Rhodes by the Turks. The order now assumed the title of 
 knights of Malta, and gallantly defended the island, which had become one 
 of the great bulwarks of Christianity, against the repeated attacks of the 
 Turks. The most fearful siege they sustained was that of 1565, when they 
 were attacked by the principal armament of Sultan Soliman II. under 
 Mustapha and Piale. In consequence of this event the Grand Master Jean 
 de Lavalette founded the town of Lavalette (now the capital), which is 
 regarded as impregnable. On 17th June, 1798, Buonaparte, when on his 
 way to Egypt , gained possession of the town through treachery and stra- 
 tagem, but on 8th Sept., 1800, after a siege of two years, it was captured 
 by the English, who have since been masters of the island, and govern it 
 mainly in accordance with its ancient laws and institutions. 
 
 La Valetta. — Hotel Imperial, pension 85.; Dansfield; Cam- 
 bridge ; Angleterre ; Croce di Malta, all of the first class and in the 
 English style. — Commissionnaire 5-6 fr. per day. 
 
 English money is the currency of the island, but French and Italian 
 gold are also in common circulation. 
 
 La Valetta , the capital of the island, erected in 1566-71, 
 with about 70,000 inhab., rises in an amphitheatrical form on a 
 promontory, which is surrounded by deeply indented bays. The 
 Harbour on the S.E. side , defended by Fort St. Elmo and other 
 batteries, is considered almost impregnable. The harbour, one of 
 the best on the Mediterranean, being well sheltered and upwards 
 of 60 ft. deep, presents a busy scene, in which various Oriental 
 elements are observable. The streets ascend precipitously from the 
 quay, often by means of long flights of steps, and are far superior 
 in cleanliness to those of other towns on the Mediterranean. The 
 Str. Reale, extending from St. Elmo to the Porta Reale, a distance 
 of more than i/ 2 M., is the principal street. 
 
 The richly decorated cathedral of S. Giovanni, dating from 
 1576, contains monuments of Grand Masters and knights of the 
 Maltese Order, grouped according to their nationality. 
 
 1st Chapel on the right (del Crocifisso): Beheading of St. John, altar- 
 piece by Mich. Angelo Caravaggio. — 2nd Chapel, Portuguese : monuments 
 of Manoel Pinto and the Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, the latter en- 
 tirely of bronze. — 3rd Chapel, Spanish: monuments of four Grand 
 Masters, the largest being those of Roccafeuil and N. Coloner. — 4th 
 Chapel, Provengals. — 5th Chapel, della Vergine , richly decorated with 
 silver : town-keys, taken from the Turks, are preserved here as trophies. 
 — To the left of the principal entrance is the bronze monument of the 
 Grand Master Marc Antonio Zondadario. — 1st Chapel on the left (or 
 
360 Route 43. 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 Sacristy ) contains a few portraits. — 2nd Chapel, Austrians. — 3rd 
 Chapel, Italians: pictures (St. Jerome and Mary Magdalene) attributed to 
 Caravaggio. — 4th Chapel, Frenchmen -, monuments of two Grand Masters 
 and of Prince Louis Philippe of Orleans (d. 1808). — 5th Chapel, Bava- 
 rians. — A staircase descends hence to a vault containing the sarcophagi 
 of LTsle Adam, the first Grand Master, La Yalette, and several others. 
 
 The Palace of the Governor, formerly the residence of the 
 Grand Master , is sumptuously fitted up , and still contains a num- 
 ber of interesting weapons and trophies of the period of the 
 knights, though the French plundered it of many of its treasures. 
 — The Houses of the different nationalities (such as the Auberge 
 de Provence , d* Auvergne , de Castille , de France , and d'ltalie ) 
 have all undergone considerable change. — Adjacent to the palace 
 is the handsome building of the Library , with about 40,000 vols. 
 and a few Phoenician and Roman antiquities found in the island. 
 
 Pleasant Walks along the ramparts , which are adorned with 
 numerous statues of Grand Masters and of English Governors. The 
 best point of view is at the Baracca Nuova . The Botanic Garden 
 is also a favourite resort. 
 
 On the E. side of the harbour lies the older part of the town, 
 called the Citta Vittoriosa, inhabited by the lower classes. Farther 
 distant is the Burmula , or Citta Cospicua , with its new docks ; 
 and lastly the Senglea or Isola . The entrance to the harbour here 
 is commanded by the fort of Ricasoli. 
 
 An aqueduct, begun in 1610, with numerous arches intersect- 
 ing the environs, supplies the town with water. The Palace of 
 S. Antonio , the residence of the Governor, with a large and well- 
 kept garden (visitors admitted), is about 4^2 M. distant. The 
 fortified Citta Vecchia, or La Notabile , 2 M. farther, the ancient 
 capital of the island, contains a few relics of the Roman period. 
 The richly decorated Cathedral is said to occupy the site of the 
 house of Publius, who when governor of the island accorded a 
 hospitable reception to St. Paul (Acts , xxviii). The terrace 
 commands an extensive prospect. The church of 8. Paolo is erected 
 over a grotto which is said to have been occupied by the Apostle 
 during the three months of his stay on the island. The sacristan 
 also shows some catacombs in the vicinity , which are partly of 
 ante-Christian origin, but otherwise uninteresting. — II Boschetto , 
 an extensive public garden which may be visited if time permits, 
 lies 2 M. to the S. of Cittk Yecchia. 
 
 The island of Comino is almost uninhabited. Gozzo, which 
 is well cultivated, was the ancient Gaulos , the site of a Phoenician, 
 and afterwards of a Roman town. La Torre de ’ Giganti , con- 
 structed of blocks of rock without mortar, possibly belonged to a 
 Phoenician temple. 
 

 
361 
 
 44. Sardinia. 
 
 Steamboats ( Societa Rubattino). a. From Leghorn weekly (Frid. 
 evening) direct to Cagliari in 32 hrs. (fares 78 fr., 56 fr.); also weekly 
 (Thurs. evening) direct to Porto Torres (Sassari) in 19 hrs., and weekly 
 (Sun. forenoon) via Bastia in Corsica and the island of Maddalena in 30 hrs. 
 
 — b. From Civita Yecchia weekly (Wed. afternoon) direct to Cagliari 
 in 23 hrs. (fares 63 fr., 42 fr.), and weekly (Mon. evening) along the E. 
 coast of Sardinia, calling at Terranova, Siniscola, Orosei, and Tortoli ; 
 also weekly (Wed. afternoon) via Maddalena to Porto Torres in 24 hrs. 
 
 — c. From Naples to Cagliari weekly (Frid.) in 30 hrs. (68 fr., 45 fr.). 
 
 — d. From Palermo to Cagliari weekly (Sat.) in 22 hrs. (61 fr., 41 fr.). 
 
 — e. From Tonis to Cagliari weekly in 18 hrs. (48 fr., 32 fr.). — f. From 
 Ajaccio to Porto Torres weekly in 7 hrs. — A steamer also plies along 
 the coast between Porto Torres and Cagliari. 
 
 Geography and Climate. Sardinia (Ital. Sardegna , Greek Sardo ), 
 situated between 38° 52' and 41° 16' N. latitude, and separated from 
 Corsica by the Strait of Bonifacio, is 119 M. distant from Africa, 140 M. 
 from Italy, and 180 M. from Sicily, and next to the latter is the largest 
 island in the Mediterranean. Its length from N. to S. is 174 M., its 
 breadth from E. to W. 70 M., area 9463 sq. M., population (in 1876) 
 658,500 souls. About nine-tenths of the island are mountainous ; the only 
 extensive plain is that which lies between the bays of Cagliari and 
 Oristano. The mountains, corresponding in direction with those of Cor- 
 sica, stretch from N. to S. ; their chief formation, especially in the N. 
 portion, is granite, next to which are tertiary rocks, here and there broken 
 by extinct volcanoes. The central part of the island is much less elevated 
 than Corsica, but of considerably greater breadth. Bruncu Spina , the 
 highest peak of the Gennargentu , is 6266 ft. in height. There are no 
 rivers of importance in the island ; the largest is the Tirso , which falls 
 into the Bay of Oristano; the Dosa descends to the E. coast, and the Coghinas 
 to the N. — Sardinia is surrounded by a number of smaller islands, such as 
 Asinara , La Maddalena , Caprera (residence of Garibaldi), and Tavolara on 
 the N., and S. Antioco and S. Pietro on the S.W. The coast is somewhat 
 monotonous and uninteresting ; the finest part is on the S. side, where 
 the Bay of Cagliari is situated. Sardinia was once one of the granaries of 
 Rome, but owing to the sparseness of the population has now lost all claim 
 to such a distinction. A large proportion of the soil is uncultivated, whilst 
 among the mountains about one-fifth of the area is clothed with forest. The 
 chief exports are the commodities yielded by the mines (lead the most 
 abundant ; then silver , iron , copper , brown-coal , etc.), the produce of 
 which is said to have increased tenfold within the last twenty years. 
 Most of them are worked by foreign capitalists. Agriculture is also grad- 
 ually improving. In all respects, however , the island is far inferior in 
 development and civilisation to the mainland. In the first place roads for 
 the transport of the products of the country to the coast are much wanted. 
 Then the malaria, or Intemperie as it is called here, renders the island, 
 with the exception of the larger towns, uninhabitable for strangers from 
 July to October. Fever, which prevails principally on the low ground, 
 frequently extends its ravages to a considerable height, in consequence of 
 which the mines are deserted during the period above mentioned. The 
 climate of Sardinia has always been regarded as unhealthy, but the evil 
 has been greatly aggravated by the defective culture of the soil. The 
 natives, however, appear to be habituated to dangers which would often 
 prove fatal to strangers. The principal precaution they use consists 
 in wearing fleeces, a usual costume of the Sardinian shepherds, who, 
 to the no small surprise of travellers, present the appearance of being 
 closely enveloped in fur under the scorching rays of a July sun. Another 
 great obstacle to the prosperity of Sardinia is the deplorably defective 
 state of education, in which respect the island is behind all the other pro- 
 vinces of Italy. Out of 10,000 inhabitants 8798 were in 1872 unable to read 
 or write (in Lombardy 5332, in Sicily 8722). 
 
 Customs and Characteristics. The Sardinians, with the exception of 
 
362 Route 44. 
 
 SARDINIA. 
 
 Antiquities. 
 
 the inhabitants of Cagliari and Sassari, have as yet been little influenced by 
 the modern advances of civilisation, and in remote districts the traveller may 
 imagine himself transferred to a period several centuries earlier. The in- 
 habitants, who are probably of the same race as the Corsicans, and belong 
 to the Iberian family, more resemble the Spaniards than the Italians in 
 character, and this peculiarity was doubtless confirmed by the long duration 
 of the Spanish supremacy. Their demeanour is grave and dignified compared 
 with that of the vivacious Italians, and exhibits a frequent tendency to 
 melancholy, harmonising well with the sombre black and white of their 
 national costume. The latter consists of a blouse of black cloth without 
 sleeves (colettu), black gaiters ( borzaghinos ), a black Phrygian cap (baretta), 
 white knee-breeches, and white shirt-sleeves adorned on festive occasions 
 with large and handsome gold buttons. The fierce and warlike disposition of 
 the ancient Sardinians still manifests itself in the revengeful spirit of their 
 descendants, which occasionally leads to deadly feuds. These faults, however, 
 are to some extent counterbalanced by the sterling virtues peculiar to a 
 primitive and untutored race, viz. their unwavering fidelity to their sover- 
 eign, their chivalric sense of honour, and their hospitality. National poetry 
 is carefully cultivated, and is remarkable for its plaintive character. The lan- 
 guage consists of a number of dialects, differing widely in many of their 
 roots 5 several of them closely resemble Spanish , or rather Latin (e. g. 
 bona dies , good day). Strangers will find it utterly impossible to under- 
 stand or make themselves understood anywhere except in the larger towns. 
 
 Antiquities. The antiquities of Sardinia are also in keeping with the 
 other peculiarities of the country. Those which date from the periods of 
 the Carthaginian and Roman supremacy or from the middle ages are far 
 inferior to those of Italy and Sicily. Unusual interest, however, attaches to 
 the curious relics of a far more remote and even pre-historic epoch. These 
 are the so-called Nuragghi or Noraghe , found in no other district, except 
 in the Balearic Islands , where they are called Talayots. They are conical 
 monuments with truncated summits, 30-60 ft. in height, 35-100 ft. in 
 diameter at the base, constructed of unhewn blocks of stone without mor- 
 tar. They are situated either on isolated eminences among the mountains, 
 or on artificial mounds on the plains. They generally contain two or 
 three conically vaulted chambers, one above the other, and a spiral 
 staircase constructed in the thick walls ascends to the upper stories. 
 General La Marmora once counted 3000 towers of this kind in the island, 
 and their number is still very great, although the advance of agriculture 
 has necessitated the removal of many of them. Of the various conjectures 
 which have been formed as to the purpose served by these enigmatical 
 structures, the most common and probable is that they are monumental 
 tombs, erected by the aboriginal inhabitants of the island. The Giants’ 
 Graves (Tumbas de los Gig antes ) , oblong piles of stones 3-6 ft. in breadth 
 and 15-36 ft. long , are believed to belong to the same remote period. The 
 Perdas fittas , or Perdas lungas , monuments of stone corresponding to the 
 Celtic menhirs and dolmens, are of much rarer occurrence in Sardinia. 
 
 Travelling. A visit to Sardinia, although now easily accomplished by 
 steamboat, will hardly interest the ordinary tourist. Nature, which has so 
 bountifully lavished her favours on many of the lands of the south, has 
 indeed by no means withheld a due share from the island. But the traveller 
 will hardly find these attractions a sufficient inducement, unless combined 
 with scientific objects, or with the desire to explore a peculiar and semi- 
 barbarous country. With the exception of excellent fishing and shooting, 
 amusements of any kind must of course not be expected. The traveller 
 will naturally desire to see more of the country than the district traversed 
 by the high-road from Sassari to Cagliari, but, if he quit this main route, 
 he will generally find himself dependent for food and lodging on the hos- 
 pitality of the natives. Letters of introduction to some of the inhabitants 
 of Sassari or Cagliari are therefore most desirable $ and, once provided 
 with these, the stranger will have little difficulty in procuring others to 
 enable him to make his way through the greater part of the island. Sar- 
 dinian hospitality is remarkable for the cordiality and courtesy with 
 which it is accorded, and it affords an admirable opportunity of observ- 
 
History. 
 
 SARDINIA. 
 
 44. Route. 363 
 
 ing the character and customs of the island and its natives. The eti- 
 quette of the household of his host may, however, frequently prove irk- 
 some to the weary traveller, who will sometimes be obliged to wait several 
 hours before he can satisfy the cravings of his unwonted appetite. The 
 upper classes generally dine between 1 and 2 o’clock , and sup between 
 9 and 11. Remuneration for hospitality is invariably declined, but a 
 liberal fee should be given to the servants (2-5 fr. per day according to 
 circumstances). 
 
 The most suitable season for a visit to Sardinia is from the middle of 
 April to the middle of June, after which dangerous fevers are very preva- 
 lent down to the beginning of November. 
 
 The construction of a system of Railways was undertaken about ten 
 years ago, but of late little has been done towards its completion. The 
 following lines were open in 1880: — 1. From Cagliari to Oristano , 59 M. 
 — 2. From Cagliari to Iglesias , 34 M., identical with the first as far as 
 (10 M.) Decimomannu. — 3. From Giave via Chilivani (whence diverges 
 a branch to Ozieri ) and Sassari to Porto Torres , 58 M. 
 
 Diligences, similar to those on the mainland, but sometimes very uncom- 
 fortable, run on the principal high-roads daily. The most interesting points in 
 the island, however, cannot be reached by carriage, and the traveller must 
 have recourse to riding, which is here the characteristic and universal mode 
 of locomotion. The Sardinian horses are small, active, and enduring ; their 
 usual pace is an ambling trot of 4-5 M. an hour, and they are admirably 
 adapted for traversing the precipitous forest-paths which are the sole means 
 of communication between the villages of the interior. Strangers cannot 
 possibly find these paths unaided, and as moreover the language cannot be 
 understood except through the medium of an interpreter, the services of a 
 guide are indispensable in the more remote districts. A guide (viandante) 
 with two horses for a single excursion or for a tour of several days may 
 generally be engaged even at the smaller villages. The charges depend 
 on a variety of circumstances, e.g. the demand for agricultural labour, etc., 
 and are therefore liable to considerable fluctuations. Thus, for the journey 
 from Oristano to Fordungianus (a ride of 3!|2 hrs.), 7 fr. were recently paid 
 for the services of a man and two horses ; from Fordungianus to Tonnara 
 (8 hrs.) 10 fr. } from Tonnara to the summit of the Gennargentu and back 
 (6 hrsO 5 fr. for a man with one horse ; from Tonnara to Nuoro (lO 1 ^ hrs.) 
 15 fr. for a man and two horses. These payments were regarded as amply 
 remunerative. For a tour of considerable length the traveller is recom- 
 mended to secure the services of a viandante well acquainted with the 
 country, for the whole expedition. This is a very attractive mode of 
 travelling, and many hours and even days may be spent in traversing 
 beautiful wooded districts without a single human habitation being encoun- 
 tered. In such cases, however, a supply of provisions and wine must not 
 be forgotten. Whilst the traveller selects the side of some well-shaded, 
 gurgling spring for a halting-place, the horses generally find luxuriant her- 
 bage in the neighbourhood, and will seldom be interrupted in their repast, 
 as the pastures in the sparsely peopled parts of the island are regarded 
 as common property. On such occasions the appearance of a Sardinian 
 mountaineer in his wild and quaint costume may awaken apprehensions as 
 to the safety of one’s purse , but the inoffensive salutation of '•bona dies ' ’ 
 will speedily reassure the traveller. The country will be found replete with 
 attractions, but the villages are generally dull and uninteresting, and appa- 
 rently quite excluded from all intercourse with the external world. 
 
 History. Of the more civilised nations of antiquity the Phoenicians 
 from Carthage were the earliest masters of the island. They founded several 
 towns on the coast, such as Caralis, the modern Cagliari, where they con- 
 centrated the traffic of the island. During their supremacy, and even during 
 that of their successors the Romans, the interior of the island preserved 
 its independence to some extent. Traces of the Phoenician epoch are 
 recognisable in a few Punic inscriptions still extant, and especially in the 
 innumerable little idols of bronze, the distorted figures of which accord 
 with the peculiar character of the Phoenician religion. Scarabsei, or stones 
 cut in the form of beetles and worn in rings, presenting a thoroughly 
 
364 Route 44. 
 
 SARDINIA. 
 
 History . 
 
 Oriental appearance, are also frequently found, and doubtless belong to 
 the same period. In B.C. 238, shortly after the 1st Punic War, Sardinia 
 was wrested from the Carthaginians by the Romans , who found it an in- 
 valuable acquisition on account of the productiveness of its fields and its 
 mines. Criminals condemned for grave offences, and subsequently numerous 
 Christians, were compelled to work in these mines. The Romans themselves 
 shunned the island as being unhealthy and imperfectly cultivated, whilst 
 they manifested little partiality for the proud and independent spirit of 
 the natives, which neither war nor persecution could entirely extinguish. 
 Great numbers of the inhabitants were brought to Rome and sold as slaves 
 at a merely nominal price, for even during servitude they maintained 
 their indomitable character and formed no very desirable acquisition to 
 their purchasers (whence the Roman expression Sardi venales , ‘as cheap 
 as a Sardinian 1 ). 
 
 In 458 the Vandals made an expedition against Sardinia from Africa 
 and conquered the island. Under Justinian, in 533, it was recaptured for 
 the Eastern Empire. The weakness of the latter, combined with the un- 
 remitting attacks of the Saracens, favoured the gradual rise of native 
 princes, who recognised the pope as their patron and protector. When at 
 length the Arabs began to establish themselves permanently in the island, 
 John XVIII. preached a crusade against the infidels, promising to bestow 
 the island on those who should succeed in expelling them. This was 
 effected by the united efforts of the Genoese and Pisans , and their rival 
 claims were decided in favour of Pisa in 1025. The island was divided 
 into four districts, Cagliari, Torres or Logudoro, Gallura, and Arborea, 
 which were presided over by < 'Giudic€ or judges. Neither Genoa, however, 
 renounced her claim, nor the papal see its supremacy ; and the Giudici, 
 profiting by these disputes, succeeded meanwhile in establishing themselves 
 as independent princes, and governed the island in accordance with its 
 national laws and customs. In 1297 Boniface VIII. invested the kings of 
 Arragon with Sardinia, and they, after protracted struggles, succeeded in 
 putting down the pretensions of Genoa, as well as those of Pisa. The 
 most distinguished of the native princes was the Giudichessa Eleonora of 
 Arborea (d. 1404), whose contests with Arragon and whose code of laws, 
 the 4 Carta de Logu' (del luogo), attained great local celebrity. This code 
 was constituted the law of the whole island by Alphonso of Arragon in 
 1421, and Eleonora’s name is still the most popular among those of the 
 earlier history of Sardinia. In 1455 a parliament (Cortes) was established, 
 consisting of three estates (stamenti), the nobles, the clergy, and the towns, 
 whose principal business was the voting of taxes. Under Ferdinand the 
 Catholic in 1479 the native princes were deprived of their independence, 
 and the island was now governed, to the universal satisfaction of the inha- 
 bitants, by Spanish Viceroys. After the War of Succession Spain was com- 
 pelled by the Peace of Utrecht, in 1714, to surrender the island to the 
 House of Austria , who in 1720 ceded it to Victor Amadeus //., Duke of 
 Savoy , in exchange for Sicily. Thenceforth Sardinia participated in the 
 fortunes of this family, and afforded it refuge and protection during the 
 supremacy of Napoleon. A determined attack on the island by the French, 
 accompanied by Buonaparte himself, in 1793, proved a signal failure. 
 In consequence of the Treaty of Paris in 1720 the Duke of Savoy assumed 
 the title of King of Sardinia, which he exchanged in 1861 for that of 
 King of Italy. 
 
 Topography. Sardinia is divided into two provinces and eleven districts, 
 the former being named after the two principal towns, Cagliari and Sassari, 
 respectively. The ecclesiastical jurisdiction is divided among three arch- 
 bishops (those of Cagliari, Sassari, and Oristano) and eleven bishops. The 
 coinage, weights , and measures are the same as those of the mainland. 
 The old Sardinian lira contained 4 reali, of 5 soldi each, and was worth 
 1 fr. 92 c., the soldo being worth about 10 c. 
 
 Literature. The most eminent explorer of Sardinia was the general 
 Count Alberto Ferrero della Marmora (b. 1789, d. 1863), who devoted his 
 whole life to the task. His principal work is the ‘ Voyage en Sardaigne ou 
 description statistique , physique , et politique , de cette Isle\ Paris et Turin, 
 
Sardinia. 
 
 CAGLIARI. 
 
 44. Route. 365 
 
 1839-60 , 5 vols. The two last vols. contain an Itineraire de ITsle de 
 Sardaigne, destined for the use of travellers. An admirable 1 Carta dell' 
 Isola e Regno di Sardegna\ in two sheets (pub. 1845, with additions down to 
 1860, price 4 fr.), has also been published by the same author, a work which 
 alone cost him upwards of 80,000 fr. — A history of Sardinia down to 1773 
 was published in 1825 by Baron Giuseppe Manno (Torino), and has gone 
 through several editions. The same author also wrote a Storia Moderna 
 (1773-99) , which appeared in 1842 and again in 1858 (Le Monnier , at 
 Florence), containing a short review of the earlier history. The effects 
 of the French revolution on Sardinia and the attacks of the French upon 
 the island are here fully and attractively described. Antiquarian research 
 in Sardinia has been chiefly promoted by the patriotic Canonico Giovanni 
 Spano, Rector of the university of Cagliari ( Bnllettino Archeologico Sardo } 
 with several smaller annual publications). 
 
 Cagliari. 
 
 Hotels (poor and comparatively dear). Progresso, R. 2 ! /2-3, A. V 2 fr-; 
 Concordia, similar charges, D. at 12.30 o’clock 3V2 fr. 
 
 Restaurants. *Scala di Ferro , Via di S. Rosalia; Trattoria I taliana, 
 near the university (fine view at the back); Trattoria del Teatro , at the 
 foot of the road to the castle. — Cafes. * Bella Venezia , Via Manno, also 
 a confectioner’s, with garden and fine view; *Borsa (formerly Telegrafo), 
 Via Barcelona, near the quay. — Swiss Confectioner (Offelleria Svizzera), 
 Piazza Porta Villanuova 3. — Beer at Boggetti’s brewery, on the Buon 
 Cammino Promenade. 
 
 Baths. *Bagni Cerruti , Via S. Rosalia 22. 
 
 Post Office, Piazza Sepolcro, by the church to the left, up the steps. 
 — Telegraph Office , Porta Villanuova. 
 
 English Consul. Mr. E. Pernis, Via Roma 3 (office-hours 8-4). 
 
 Steamboats, see p. 361. — Landing or embarcation, with luggage 1 fr. 
 The office of the Societd Rubattino is in the Via Roma, opposite the 
 harbour. 
 
 Railway to Oristano and to Iglesias, p. 368. 
 
 Diligences. Office, Contrada Zenne (to the left when reached from 
 the large piazza). To Laconi (p. 372) once, to S. Pietro Pula (p. 368) 
 twice daily. 
 
 Wine of the country indifferent. Vernaccia , a finer quality, strong, 
 but acid, 2-3 fr. per bottle ; Simbirizzi , good and cheap ; Malvasia and 
 Muscato , sweet. 
 
 Cagliari , the Caralis of the Romans, a very ancient town 
 founded by the Phoenicians, the capital of the island, with 33,000 
 inhab., lies on an extensive bay, bounding the flat district at the 
 S. end of the island, and terminated on the W. by Capo Sparti - 
 vento and on the E. by Capo Carbonara. To the E. of the town 
 projects the Capo di S. Elia , which forms one extremity of the 
 Golfo di Quartu. The town is surrounded by extensive lagoons, 
 the Stagno di Cagliari on the W. and the Stagno di Molentargiu on 
 the E. side. These yield abundance of salt, which forms the cargo 
 of numerous vessels, particularly from Sweden and Finland, when 
 returning home after having brought supplies of pine-wood to 
 Spain and Italy. Cagliari is situated on the slope of a precipitous 
 hill, 290 ft. in height, and consists of four distinct quarters : the 
 old town or Castello (Sard. Casteddu ); below it to the E. the Villa 
 Nuova ; and lastly Marina and Stampace. 
 
 The spacious Piazza del Mercato, embellished with a bronze 
 Statue of Charles Felix I . , erected in 1860 to commemorate the 
 
366 Route 44. 
 
 CAGLIARI. 
 
 Sardinia. 
 
 construction of the road to Porto Torres, forms the central point of 
 the modern quarters of the town. It is separated from the Piazza 
 Yenne, in which rises an ancient column with inscriptions, by the 
 Via Carlo Felice , which is prolonged towards the lower town as the 
 Corso Vittorio Emanuele and towards the upper as the Via 
 Manno. The Corso is the busiest street in Cagliari, with numerous 
 shops, where among other things the gold ornaments commonly 
 worn by the country-people should he observed. It leads to a small 
 piazza, and then descends to Villa Nuova. To the left it ascends in 
 two zigzags to the — 
 
 Castle, which still has its ancient gates, and contains the chief 
 buildings and the palaces of the nobility. Three terraces laid out 
 on the old bastion of S. Caterina , on the right, connected by 
 flights of steps and planted with shady pine-trees, command a flue 
 *View, and form one of the most beautiful points in the town. 
 Here is situated the Teatro Civico ) which is well fitted up. 
 
 The street to the left leads to the University, founded in 1596 
 by Philip III. of Spain, and remodelled in 1764 by Charles Em- 
 manuel of Savoy. The library contains 22,000 vols.; among the 
 MSS. are the Pergamene di Arborea , which, except in Sardinia 
 itself, are generally regarded as modern forgeries. 
 
 The * Museum contains geological and mineralogioal collec- 
 tions formed by La Marmora , whose bust is placed in the 
 archaeological saloon , and the most complete collection of Sar- 
 dinian antiquities (to which valuable contributions have been 
 made by the Canonico Spano), including epitaphs, milestones, 
 vessels of earthenware and glass, coins, and numerous figures in 
 bronze. 
 
 I. Room. Cabinet by the wall of the entrance: terracotta mask from 
 Tharrus (p. 369). — II. Room. Cabinet in the centre: handsome glass 
 vessels of the Roman period from Cornus (p. 369) , the larger of which 
 were used as cinerary urns , the ashes being deposited in earthenware 
 receptacles ; also two complete receptacles of this kind with all the articles 
 found in them. Cabinet nearest the entrance : Punic scarabsei and gold 
 trinkets, chiefly from Tharrus (*71. Earring of delicate workmanship). 
 Cabinet next the window opposite the entrance : Punic earrings, many of 
 which resemble in form those worn by the Sardinian peasant-women at 
 the present day. Cabinet by the other window : Sardinian idols in bronze, 
 many of them spurious *, those next the window are undoubtedly genuine. 
 
 Proceeding hence through the Porta Aquila under the Palazzo 
 Boyl, we enter the fortress. 
 
 At the entrance to the old town the main street contracts, and, 
 like most of the streets in Cagliari, is badly paved. After a walk 
 of 3 min. in a straight direction, we ascend a flight of steps on 
 the right to the * Cathedral, completed in 1312 by the Pisans, 
 but afterwards altered and modernised. The tasteless facade dates 
 from 1703. 
 
 At the principal entrance are two : Ainbos with scenes from Scripture 
 history. — In the N. transept is the tomb of Martin II. of Arragon (d. 
 1409). The chapels contain a few monuments in the rococo style. — In 
 the Crypt is a monument to the queen of Louis XVIII. , a princess of 
 
Sardinia . CAGLIARI. 44. Route. 367 
 
 Savoy (d. 1810) , and another to the only son of Victor Emmanuel I. (d. 
 
 1796 ). 
 
 We next pass the Torre delV Elefante , erected in 1307 by 
 the Pisans, as the metrical inscription records , and reach the 
 Buon Cammino promenade, !/ 3 M. in length, which affords a fine 
 survey of the bay and the mountains rising above it. (A still 
 finer point of view is the Birreria Boggetti , above the promenade, 
 on the right.) Immediately beyond the (r.) Carlo Alberto bar- 
 racks, erected in 1847, a broad road descends from the promenade 
 to the left to the Capuchin Monastery , where there are several rock- 
 hewn reservoirs once connected with a Roman aqueduct. Op- 
 posite the monastery is the Amphitheatre, recently freed from rub- 
 bish , the greater axis of which measures 95*^ yds* ? the lesser 
 79 yds., while the arena was about 55 by 34 yds. A natural de- 
 pression in the rock which slopes hence towards the sea was 
 turned to account in its construction , and most of the rows of 
 seats are hewn in the rock, while the open S. extremity was closed 
 by masonry. From the ruinous condition of the structure also it is 
 obvious that economy was carefully observed in its erection ; and 
 we thus obtain , on comparing this, the most considerable ruin in 
 Sardinia, with the magnificent edifices of Italy and Southern France, 
 an additional indication of the subordinate importance attached to 
 the island at that period. 
 
 The Environs of Cagliari present all the characteristics of a 
 southern land, the climate being hot, and rain very scarce ; but the 
 town itself, even in summer, is generally free from fever. Here, 
 as in Sicily and Africa , the fields are usually enclosed with hedges 
 of cactus. The Campidano di Cagliari , an extensive plain stretching 
 hence to Oristano, is fertile and tolerably well peopled. 
 
 On a rocky plateau, l r /4 M. to the N.W. of Cagliari, is situated an 
 extensive Necropolis. The route to it first passes the Punic Tombs , con- 
 sisting of subterranean chambers hewn in the limestone rock, with symbols 
 in the Egyptian style over the entrances. (Caution must be used, as many 
 of the entrances are overgrown with plants.) The majority of these are 
 below the Casino Massa. Farther W. are the Roman Tombs. Many of 
 these also border the road to the S., leading through the Borgo di S. 
 Avendrace. The finest of them is the Grotta della Vipera , with a hand- 
 some facade, being the tomb of Atilia Pomptilla and her husband Cassius 
 Philippus , who died here as exiles from Rome , as we are informed by 
 the Latin and Greek inscriptions. Excellent view from the top of the 
 plateau. 
 
 From Cagliari to Quartu , 4V2 M. to the N.W. (omnibus twice 
 daily each way in 1 hr. ; coupe 1 fr.). The road starts from the Villa- 
 
 nuova Quarter of the town. On the right we have a view of the Capo 
 di S. Elia and a large swamp which is a favourite haunt of the flamingo 
 in spring. Quartu , a town with 6200 inhab. , is worthy of a visit on a 
 Sunday, when the rich costumes and curious gold ornaments of Asiatic 
 type worn by the women are seen in perfection. The old-fashioned Sar- 
 dinian round dance, accompanied by the rustic double flute, is also some- 
 times performed in the piazza on Sundays and holidays. The favourite 
 delicacies on such festive occasions consist of porchettu (roast pork) and 
 the excellent Malvagia wine produced near Quartu. On 21st May the 
 festival of St. Helena is celebrated here , the main feature of it being a 
 procession of richly decked oxen. (In 1875 there were 104 pairs.) 
 
368 Route 44. 
 
 IGLESIAS. 
 
 Sardinia. 
 
 From Cagliari to S. Maria di Buonaria, 1/2 hr. — We follow the 
 road leading to the E. from the Via di Buonaria, and pass the remains 
 of the very ancient church of S. Bardiglio. The church of S. Maria di 
 Buonaria contains numerous votive offerings from mariners and convicts. 
 About V 2 M. from it there is a large prison. In */2 hr. more we arrive 
 at the top of the Capo S. Elia , where some rude attempts at hewing the 
 rock appear to indicate that an ancient settlement once existed here. 
 
 The S. E. angle of Sardinia is the wildest and least populous 
 portion. Excursions towards the S. W. are more interesting. 
 
 To Pula lT 1 ^ M. (by omnibus, see p. 365} or on horseback). The road 
 intersects the Plaia, a series of sandy islands connected by numerous 
 bridges and separating the Stagno di Cagliari from the sea. It passes Orri, 
 where there is a picturesque country-seat of the Marchese Villa Hermosa } 
 it then leads to S. Pietro Pula , and past a ruined ‘nurrago 1 and a Roman 
 aqueduct on the promontory of Pula (2 M.) to the church of S. Efisio , 
 occupying the site of the ancient Nora , of which a few traces (a quay, the 
 small theatre of La Leoniera, etc.) are still visible. Pula possesses ex- 
 cellent spring-water, and has therefore always been a favourite naval station. 
 In 1804 Nelson spent a considerable time here. 
 
 To Iglesias. There are numerous mines in the S.W. part of the is- 
 land, of which Iglesias is the principal town. Railway thither (34 M.) 
 from Cagliari} two or three trains daily in 2 hrs. } fares 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 30, 
 3 fr. 10 c. — The line diverges from the main line at Decimomannu 
 (see below). Stations Uta , Siliqua , Musei. The town of Iglesias , pictu- 
 resquely situated , is an episcopal see with a cathedral of 1215 , and 
 possesses ancient walls and a castle which was restored by the Arragonese. 
 The town is surrounded by beautiful gardens, the finest of which 
 belongs to the Dominicans. Near Monte Poni (1096 ft.) in the vicinity, 
 there is a very productive lead-mine. About 12 M. farther along the 
 coast, opposite the small island of S. Pietro, is situated Porto Scuso, a 
 fishing-village, where tunny-fish are captured in great numbers. 
 
 From Cagliari to Sassari. 
 
 147 M. The Railway generally follows the principal road of the is- 
 land ( Strada Gentrale). The line is now open from Cagliari to Oristano 
 (59 M. } two trains daily in 3 3 /4 hrs. } fares 10 fr. 65, 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 35 c.), and 
 from Giave to Sassari (see p. 370). 
 
 Diligence from Oristano to Giave daily in about 10 hrs., often run- 
 ning at night. Those who hire a private carriage generally spend the 
 night at Macomer (8 hrs.). 
 
 The train traverses the extensive plain of Campidano , and 
 passes the Stagno di Cagliari. 5 M. Elmas ; 8 M. Assimini; 
 10i/ 2 M. Decimomannu , where the line to Iglesias (p. 338) diverges. 
 
 16 M. Villasor ; 2 OY 2 M. Serramanna ; 24 M. Samassi. 
 
 28 M. Sanluri is a large village with a ruined castle and several 
 old churches, where a son of the Arragonese king Martin defeated 
 Brancaleone Do'ria in 1409. The manners and costume of the peas- 
 antry here are peculiar. The houses in the Campidano are built 
 of spongey, sun-dried brick. 
 
 31 M. S. Gavino. To the right we observe the castle of Mon- 
 reale , once the seat of the Giudici of Arborea, still in excellent 
 preservation. Saffron is largely cultivated here. 36 M. Pabillonis; 
 43 M. l/ras, in a fertile plain at the base of the volcanic Monte 
 Arci, the scene of a victory gained by the Marchese d’Oristano 
 over the Spanish viceroy in 1470. 
 
Sardinia. 
 
 ORISTANO, 
 
 44. Route. 369 
 
 48 M. Marrubiu. The train now skirts a lake, separated by 
 a narrow strip of land only from the Bay of Oristano. 
 
 59 M. Oristano. — Albergo del Commercio, in the Piazza, poor and 
 not cheap; Trattoria della Strada Ferrata, Via del Portico, with 
 tolerable rooms and good cuisine (bargaining necessary). — Amaretti 
 d' Oristano, a favourite kind of cake. 
 
 Diligence to Sassari at 8 p.m. — Carriage to Macomer 20-30 fr. ; bar- 
 gain necessary as to the halt at Milis to see the orange-gardens , and at 
 Paulilatino to visit the giants 1 tombs. Provisions for the journey should 
 be taken from Oristano. 
 
 Oristano , a town with 7000 inhab., the seat of an archbishop, 
 is situated on the Tirso in a marshy locality. It was founded in the 
 11th cent, by the inhabitants of the ancient Tharrus. Many towers 
 of the mediaeval fortifications are still standing. The palace in 
 which the Giudici of Arborea resided is still pointed out. The 
 large Cathedral of the 17th cent, contains several pictures by 
 Marghinotti, a modern Sardinian artist. 
 
 Excursions. Oristano itself is an uninviting place, but there are several 
 points of interest in the neighbourhood. Tharrus , with its tombs, the richest 
 mine of antiquities in Sardinia, may be reached on horseback in 3-4 hrs. 
 Nearly halfway to it lies Cabras , on the salt-lake Mare Pontis (excellent 
 fishing), with the ruins of a castle where Eleonora of Arborea first accorded 
 the charter of liberty (Carta de Logu) to her subjects. A good oppor- 
 tunity of observing the native costumes is to be had here on Thursdays, 
 when numerous peasants from all parts of the country come to provide 
 themselves with fish for their Friday fast. Leaving Cabras, a ride of 
 2 hrs. more brings us to the Promontory of S. Marco , where the abbey- 
 church of S. Giovanni de Sinis indicates the site of the ancient town of 
 Tharrus. FartherS., on the coast, is situated the Necropolis, where anti- 
 quities are still frequently found. On the brow of the promontory there 
 are upwards of 20 nuragghi. 
 
 Another excursion is from Oristano (by carriage in 2 1 j2-3 hrs.) to the 
 ruins of the ancient town of Cornus, situated on the coast to the N. — 
 The village of Milis, at the base of Monte Ferru (3441 ft.), may be reach- 
 ed by carriage in 2 hrs. ; near it is the charming country -residence 
 of the Marchese Boyl, with beautiful orange-gardens , containing upwards 
 of 300,000 trees (some of them 6 ft. in circumference). — To Fordungianus, 
 on the left bank of the Tirso, on horseback in 3% hrs. (charges, see p. 
 363). This was the ancient Forum Trajani, and possesses thermal springs 
 and a few scanty relics of antiquity. No inn. From this point to Tonara 
 or Aritzo at the base of Gennargentu is a day's ride; comp. pp. 372, 373. 
 
 Road. Beyond Oristano, of which a fine retrospect is enjoyed, 
 the road traverses a fertile plain and several green valleys. By the 
 village of Tramazza a road diverges to Milis (see above). Our road 
 next passes Bauladu , and leads to Paulilatino (3000 inhab.), where 
 we observe a nuraggo and several giants’ graves. The vegetation 
 now loses the African character presented by the palms and cacti, 
 and becomes more like that of Central Italy. The road ascends. 
 On the left are the heights of Monte Ferru. After a drive of 
 8 hrs. we reach — 
 
 Macomer (*Albergo Muria; *Albergo Nazionale; Caffe Gari- 
 baldi ), a small town with 2400 inhab., loftily situated (1890 ft. 
 above the sea), on the slope of the mountains of the Catena del 
 Marghine , commanding distant views of the Gennargentu and other 
 peaks of the central chain. Near it lay the ancient Macopsisa , 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 24 
 
370 Route 44. 
 
 • GIAVE. 
 
 Sardinia. 
 
 where a number of Roman antiquities have been found. In front of 
 the church are three ancient milestones, two of Vespasian and one 
 of Sept. Severus, proving that a Roman road once passed here. 
 
 No district in Sardinia contains such a number of Nuragghi as the 
 environs of Macomer. These monuments are sufficiently conspicuous, 
 but as they are often difficult of access owing to the rank grass and 
 underwood surrounding them , the services of a guide will be found 
 acceptable ( Battista Dorra , 2 fr. per half day, speaks a little Italian). 
 That of *£. Barbara , about y 2 M. to the N. of the town, not far from 
 the high-road, deserves a visit on account of its excellent state of pre- 
 servation. It is square in form, and surrounded by four small cones. 
 Another similar monument, called Tamuli (possibly from ‘tumuli 1 ), is 
 about 4 M. to the W. of Macomer. It is a well-preserved nuraggo, in 
 which were discovered curious idols, believed by La Marmora to be 
 Phoenician. The platform commands an admirable view. About 50 paces 
 to the E. of the Tamuli, and partly concealed by thistles, are six cones 
 of stone 5 ft. in height, three of them with women’s breasts. 
 
 Macomer, lying at the intersection of two roads, is one of the 
 busiest points in the interior of the island. Diligence daily by 
 Sindia and Suni to Bosa (3 fr.); also daily to Nuoro (8, coupe 
 10 fr.), and thence to Orosei on the E. coast. 
 
 The mountain-passes through which the road from Macomer 
 to Bonorva (10^2 M.) winds upwards to the lofty plain of La 
 Campedda (2250 ft.) are frequently blocked with snow in winter, so 
 that diligence-passengers are then compelled to wait for several 
 days at Macomer or Bonorva. The latter, with 5200 inhab., who 
 are engaged in tilling the soil and rearing cattle, lies in a bleak 
 region, M. to the right of the road. The road now enters 
 a rocky district and crosses a brook, near which are several grottoes 
 in the limestone rock, once apparently inhabited. 
 
 At Giave, about 9y 2 M. from Bonorva, we reach the Railway 
 (to Sassari 46 M., in 3 3 / 4 hrs.; fares 8 fr. 40, 5 fr. 90, 4fr. 20 c.). 
 
 The first station beyond Giave is (4 M.) Torralba , with the an- 
 cient, formerly episcopal church of S. Pietro di Torres (containing 
 mediaeval sculptures), and two of the most remarkable nuragghi in 
 Sardinia, those of Sant’ Antino and Oes, the former consisting of 
 several chambers one above the other , the latter surrounded by 
 three small cones of stone. 
 
 From Torralba to Alghero, 28 M., diligence daily. The fortified sea- 
 port town of Alghero, with 10,000 inliab., was founded by the Genoese family 
 of Doria in 1102. At a later period Catalonians, whose language is still 
 spoken by the inhabitants, settled here. In 1541 Charles V. landed here 
 on his way to Africa, and spent several days in the Casa Albis, which is 
 still shown. The town is an episcopal see and possesses a cathedral of 1510. 
 Many of the houses are of mediaeval origin. Coral and shellfish are among 
 the staple commodities (the pinna marina is often found here). The en- 
 virons produce wine, oil, and southern fruits in abundance. The neigh- 
 bouring * Grottoes of Neptune contain remarkably fine stalactites. 
 
 12 M. Mores . — 17 M. Chilivani . 
 
 Chilivani is the junction of a branch-line (3 M., in 12 min.; fares 60, 
 40, 30 c.) to Ozieri, a town with 8000 inhab., whence a high-road runs 
 to Terranova, on the E. coast. Terranova, with 2400 inhab., occupies the 
 site of the ancient Olbia , of which it still retains a few relics. Steamers 
 several times weekly to Cagliari, Porto Torres, and Civita Yecchia. 
 
Sardinia. 
 
 • SASSARI. 
 
 44. Route. 37 1 
 
 The train now follows the Rio de las Perdas Alvas , which flows 
 between wooded heights. 22*^ M. Ardara. Near (29 M.) Ploaghe 
 rises a volcanic hill, where an ancient stream of lava is distinctly 
 traced. On the N. side of the ravine stands a *Nuraggo, the 
 ‘Nurhagu Nieddu’ (i. e. ‘the black’), consisting of several cham- 
 bers one above the other, and easy of access. 
 
 35 M. Campomela ; 37 M. Scala di Giocca ; 41 M. Tissi-Usini ; 
 43^2 M. Caniga ; 46 M. Sassara. 
 
 Sassari. 
 
 Hotels. "Hotel Bertrand, Piazza del Castello, R., dej., and D. 8 fr.*, 
 "Italia, Piazza Azuni, 7 fr. • Concordia, Via delle Finanze, good Genoese 
 cuisine, but poor rooms. 
 
 Caffb Mortara , Piazza Castello. — Drinking-water bad. 
 
 Sassari , the capital of the province of that name, with 33,500 
 inhab., an archiepiscopal see and seat of a university, is the chief 
 town in the island next to Cagliari, but is built in a much better 
 and more modern style. The two towns have for centuries aspired to 
 the exclusive rank of capital of Sardinia. In Aug., 1855, the cholera 
 carried off nearly one-third of the inhabitants within twenty days. 
 
 The handsome Piazza is embellished with a Statue of Azuni , 
 the eminent teacher of commercial law, erected in 1862. 
 
 The ancient Walls and the Doria tower owe their origin to 
 the Genoese. The picturesque Castle (now a barrack) was erected 
 by the Arragonese in 1330. 
 
 The ^Cathedral , with a modern facade, contains a painting of 
 the school of Carracci, and (to the left of the choir) the tomb of 
 the Due de Maurienne, a brother of Victor Emmanuel I., who 
 died at Sassari in 1802. The church della Trinith has a Descent 
 from the Cross of the 15th century. The University , dating from 
 the 17th cent., is attended by about 80 students only. It contains 
 small collections of Roman antiquities and natural history. 
 
 The Theatre , the Municipality and the Hospital are handsome 
 buildings. The town is now encircled by promenades, including 
 the Giardino Pubblico , where concerts are often given. 
 
 On the E. side of Sassari is the copious Fontana del Rosello , the 
 water of which is carried up to the town in small barrels by donkeys. 
 The fountain, dating from 1605, is in the tasteless style of the period, and 
 is crowned with a statue of S. Gavinus, the tutelary saint of the N. part 
 of the island, who is said to have been a Roman centurion and to have 
 embraced Christianity at the time of the persecution by Diocletian. 
 
 A favourite excursion from Sassari is to the village of Osilo (2 hrs. 
 on horseback), situated 2132 ft. above the sea-level, and commanding fine 
 views, especially from the pinnacles of a ruined castle of the Malaspina 
 family, or from the still loftier chapel di Bonaria (2503 ft.). 
 
 Another excursion may be made to the romantic valley of Giocca , and 
 the abbey of the Madonna di Saccargia (date 1116), constructed of co- 
 loured marble. 
 
 From Sassari to Porto Torres, 12^2 M., railway in % hr. 
 (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c.). Stations: 2 1 / 2 M. Sanf 
 Orsola; 3 M. San Giorgio ; 4^2 M r San Giovanni. 
 
 24 * 
 
372 Route 44. 
 
 PORTO TORRES, 
 
 Sardinia. 
 
 Porto Torres ( Cafe Suisse , and several other cafes and restau- 
 rants), occupying the site of the Roman Turris Libyssonis , now the 
 seaport of Sassari, and consisting of a single long street, is notorious 
 for its malaria. The shipping-trade is of some importance, the chief 
 branch of it being the export of oxen to Marseilles. Above the town 
 (^4 M. from the quay) stands *S. Gavino , a basilica of the 11th 
 cent., in the ancient style, with antique columns, raised choir, 
 and an open roof. Several relics of antiquity are built into the walls. 
 The crypt contains the saint’s tomb and some ancient sarcophagi. 
 
 A little to the W. of the harbour (reached by the road to the 
 right) are situated extensive Roman ruins. The brook which falls 
 into the harbour is crossed by an ancient Roman Bridge of seven 
 arches of unequal span , substantially constructed of massive blocks 
 of stone. Between the bridge and the harbour are the ruins of a 
 large Temple of Fortune , near which once stood a basilica, restored 
 by the Emp. Philip the Arabian in A.D. 247. The relics of the 
 latter now bear the name of II Palazzo del Re Barbaro. An aqueduct 
 and numerous rock-tombs also still exist. A few leisure hours may 
 pleasantly be devoted to the inspection of these antiquities. 
 
 From Cagliari to Nuoro, with Excursions to the Mountains 
 of La Barbagia. 
 
 Excursions to the mountainous districts of the interior are most con- 
 veniently made from the carriage-road leading from Cagliari to Nuoro, 
 which is traversed by diligences. Digressions from it must of course be 
 made on foot or horseback. From Cagliari to Laconi about 56 M., from 
 Laconi to Nuoro 44 M., in all 100 M. 
 
 The road leads in the direction of Oristano as far as (14y 2 M.) 
 Monastir (240 ft.). Thence by the left bank of the river Mannu to 
 (14y 2 M .^Senorbi, at theS. extremity of the hilly and fertile district 
 of Trejenta. Then from Senorbi by Suelli and Mandas (1610 ft.) 
 to Isili. (1460 ft.) , the capital of this province (17 */ 2 M. from 
 Senorbi). The neighbouring district contains numerous nuragghi. 
 The road next traverses the lofty plain of La Giara , entirely of 
 basaltic formation, with a great number of nuragghi on the heights. 
 It then leads through a pleasant valley, passes the chapel of S. Se- 
 bastiano and the village of Nurallao , and reaches the small town of 
 Laconi (2000 inhab. ; 1752 ft. above the sea). It lies at the W. 
 base of the shelving plain of Sarcidano , whence a torrent descends 
 near a ruined castle and forms a waterfall in the gardens of the 
 Marchese di Laconi. 
 
 Laconi is an excellent starting-point for a visit to the mountainous 
 district of the Barbagia, the wildest part of Sardinia, the inhabitants 
 of which boast that they never succumbed either to the Carthaginians or 
 to the Romans. The expedition requires 4-5 days. A guide and a supply 
 of food and blankets should be obtained at Laconi, as it may be necessary 
 to spend a night in a shepherd’s hut. 
 
 1st Day. From Laconi to Aritzo (5 hrs.), a mountain-village (2680 ft.) 
 at the base of the mountain Fontana Congiada (4944 ft.), whence Cagliari 
 procures its supplies of ice in summer. We pass the night here or in 
 
Sardinia. NUORO. 44. Route. 373 
 
 one of the huts on the slope of the Oennargentu , in order that we may 
 reach its summit in good time on the following day. 
 
 2nd Day. On horseback to the * Punta Bruncu Spina (6266 ft.), the 
 summit of the Gennargentu, and the highest point in Sardinia, command- 
 ing a superb view of the island and the Mediterranean. A spring near 
 the top is a suitable spot for a halt. The ascent from Aritzo (or from 
 Tonara , a village picturesquely situated in a valley) occupies 3-4 hrs., 
 presenting no difficulty. The descent is made on the N. side to Fonni 
 (3277 ft.), oh the Monte Spada (5335 ft.), a town with 3200 inhab., where 
 the night is spent. From Fonni to Gavoi (see below) on the high-road 4 x /2 M. 
 
 3rd Day. From Fonni by the left bank of the Rio Gobbo to the pass 
 of Col di Correboi (4176 ft.); then a descent into the valley of the Rio di 
 Perda Guaddci , one of the highest affluents of the Flumendosa. A good 
 resting-place is near the picturesquely shaped rocks of Perdaliana 
 (4309 ft.). 
 
 4th Day. Through the woods on the left bank of the Flumendosa to 
 the chapel of S. Sebastiano (3110 ft.), near Seui, where there are coal- 
 mines; thence between Monte Orru and Monte Perdedu to Seulo (2624 ft.). 
 
 5th Day. From Seulo we return to Laconi, either towards the W., 
 crossing the Flumendosa by a ford (passable in dry weather only), and 
 traversing the lofty district of Sarcidano and the oak-forest of Laconi 
 (the more direct route); or from Seulo we proceed towards the S., pass 
 the nuraggo of S. Cosimo and a small mud-volcano (similar to the Macca- 
 luba in Sicily) , descend to the Flumendosa , cross the river by a ford, 
 IV 2 M. to the N. of Villanova Tulo , and ascend to that village, whence 
 we cross the plain of Sarcidano to Laconi (6 hrs.; a longer route than the 
 above, but pleasanter and more picturesque). It depends to a great ex- 
 tent on the traveller’s letters of introduction whether he will prolong or 
 shorten his tour. In the larger villages, however, a small cabaret is al- 
 ways to be found ; and where there is none, the cure or one of the prin- 
 cipal inhabitants will if necessary accord hospitality to strangers, though 
 not provided with an introduction. 
 
 From Laconi to Nuoro the road leads by Meana , Atzara , and 
 Sorgono (inn tolerable). From this point the more direct route 
 does not lead to Gavoi , but passes Fonni and proceeds to Mamo- 
 jada , whence there is also a carriage-road (a drive of 3 hrs.) to — 
 
 Nuoro (*Albergo del Cannon d’Oro ), a district- capital and 
 episcopal see (5800 inhab.), situated on the slope of a hill (1906 
 ft.), with a view of the Gennargentu and the nearer mountains. 
 Nuoro lies on the road from Macomer to Orosei (diligence every 
 afternoon from Nuoro to Macomer in 7-8 hrs. ; to Orosei every 
 morning in 5 hrs.). Orosei, the ancient Cedrinus , is a small seaport 
 on the E. coast , whence steamers ply weekly to Cagliari , and to 
 Terranova and Maddalena. 
 
 45. Excursion to Tunis. 
 
 Carthage. 
 
 Comp, the Map , p. 358. 
 
 When at Cagliari or Malta, the traveller should if possible take 
 this opportunity of visiting Tunis, in order to obtain a glimpse of Oriental 
 life, as the excursion may be made without very serious inroads on time 
 and money. The ruins of Carthage in the vicinity form an additional 
 attraction, and few will omit to visit the site of the once mighty city 
 which ruled the ocean. Utica also lay near Tunis. 
 
 Steamboats to Goletta (Tunis). 1. From Cagliari (and from Genoa, 
 Leghorn, or Naples). A steamboat of the Societa Rubattino leaves Genoa 
 
374 Route 45. 
 
 GOLETTA. 
 
 Excursion 
 
 on Thursdays at 9 p.m., and Leghorn on Fridays at midnight ; another leaves 
 Naples on Fridays at noon (passengers for Goletta by the last must change 
 boats at Cagliari) • from Cagliari on Sunday evenings , crossing direct, 
 reaching Goletta on Monday afternoons and returning on Wednesday after- 
 noons. Fares from Cagliari to Goletta, 48 fr., 32 fr. — 2. From Palermo 
 a steamer of the Florio Co. plies once weekly to Goletta via Trapani , 
 Favignana , Marsala , and the island of Pantelleria , starting on Tues. 
 evenings, leaving Marsala at noon on Wed., and arriving on Thurs. morn- 
 ings. — 3. From Malta (which is reached by steamers of the Florio Co. 
 from Messina or Syracuse, see p. 358) steamers of the Rubattino Co. usually 
 start every Sat. forenoon for Goletta (Tunis), which they reach in 22 hrs. 
 (fares 60 fr., 40 fr.). — 4. From Marseilles weekly (Valery Co.) via Ajaccio 
 and Bona. — Travellers, however, should enquire on the spot with regard 
 to these routes, in case of alterations. 
 
 French Gold is the best kind of money for this excursion (comp. p. 377). 
 
 The steamboats from Cagliari and from Malta do not touch any- 
 where on their way to Tunis. The steamer from Palermo calls at 
 Trapani, Favignana, and Marsala, and 7 hrs. after leaving the last 
 reaches Pantelleria, an island of volcanic origin, 30 M. in circum- 
 ference, and 58 sq. M. in area, situated more than halfway to the 
 African coast. The extinct crater in the interior of the island rises 
 nearly 2000 ft. above the sea. Numerous hot mineral springs still 
 afford evidence of slumbering volcanic agency. The inhabitants, 
 7000 in number, speak a peculiar dialect compounded of Arabic 
 and Italian, and carry on a considerable trade in the excellent figs, 
 raisins, capers, and other products of their island. Pantelleria was 
 the Cossyra of antiquity. It was occupied by the Phoenicians at 
 an early period. The principal village, with 2500 inhab., lies on 
 the N.W. side of the island. The citadel contains an Italian penal 
 colony. 
 
 Farther on we come in sight of Cape Farina and Cape Bon , 
 with its lighthouse, two conspicuous points on the coast of Africa, 
 which is green in winter only, and we soon enter the Bay of Tunis. 
 To the E. of the entrance lie the small islands of Jamur , the larger 
 of which is called Zembra and the smaller Zembarotta , the Tunisian 
 quarantine. 
 
 The bay contracts 5 to the left rise precipitous and barren 
 cliffs, forming an imposing frame to the bay ; and in a few hours 
 the landing-place at Goletta becomes visible. On the right rises 
 the promontory of Carthagena , crowned by a conspicuous light- 
 house (admission by paying a fee), and sloping precipitously on 
 the E. and N.. sides, while the picturesque Arabian village of Sidi- 
 Bu-Said , wTiich commands a fine panorama of the Bay and the 
 country around , marks the spot where stood the ancient city of 
 Carthage (comp. p. 378). 
 
 Goletta. Arrival. As soon as the steamboat has cast anchor she is 
 boarded by the sanitary officer of the port and the agent of the steam- 
 boat company, who carries away a bill of lading for the Dogana. After 
 these officials have gone ashore, a number of large boats approach the 
 vessel to land the passengers and freight. The traveller is now conveyed 
 to the Dogana (custom-house), where his luggage is examined, and where 
 he should obtain the proper certificate of examination from the authorities, 
 
to Tunis. 
 
 TUNIS. 
 
 45. Route . 375 
 
 as otherwise his effects are liable to be examined a second time, at Tunis. 
 Should any difficulty arise with the custom-house officers, the traveller may 
 threaten to appeal to his consul, which will generally have the desired effect. 
 
 The most promising of the throng of negroes and Arabs who proffer 
 their services may be engaged to carry luggage to the Railway for Tunis 
 (see below), and to act as guide (fee 50-70 c.). Some of them understand 
 a few words of Italian. Offers of assistance from other persons should 
 be declined. If there is time to spare before the departure of train or 
 steamboat, luggage may be entrusted to the landlord of one of the 
 numerous cafes or inns, while the traveller explores the town. 
 
 Goletta (Hotel de France, tolerable), with about 3500 inhab., 
 is the port of Tunis, from which it is about 11 M. distant, and 
 the residence of a Caid (p. 376). Its coolness in summer (thermo- 
 meter seldom above 82° Fahr. in the shade) and its excellent sea- 
 baths render it a favourite resort at that season. The town is forti- 
 fied , and has a small garrison, which , there being no barracks, 
 usually encamps in the open air, or finds accommodation wherever 
 it can. The present Bey of Tunis has a villa at Goletta, where he 
 resides from May to September, during which time the ministers 
 and other officials are also resident here. It is contrary to Muslim 
 etiquette for a new Bey to occupy the same summer residence as 
 his predecessor, and their places of abode therefore vary. The 
 Palace of the present Bey is situated to the right of the canal which 
 connects the bay with the inner creek. On the left of this canal 
 are the Dogana , the Harem of the Bey, the Court of Justice (where 
 the Bey presides in summer; comp. p. 376), and the Arsenal. Most 
 of the handsome villas outside the N. gate extending along the 
 coast in the direction of Carthage, are the residences of the Bey’s 
 ministers. The last in this direction belongs to the Bey himself, 
 and contains a few Roman and Phoenician inscriptions and anti- 
 quities. 
 
 The Railway between Goletta and Tunis carries on a busy traffic 
 between these places. The railway-station is just outside the gate 
 on the Carthage road. The journey takes ^2 hr* (1st cl. 2 fr.). The 
 train skirts the N. margin of the bay of El Bahira , and we observe 
 the island of Shykeli , with a mediseval castle, which contains a 
 large leaden reservoir. The lake is enlivened by countless wild 
 fowl, including flamingoes, which afford excellent sport. 
 
 Tunis. Porters , as at Goletta, 50-70 c. 
 
 "Hotel de la Regence (formerly de France ), situated in the Rue des 
 Remparts, close to the gate towards the quay, per day IIV 2 fr. (at pre- 
 sent the only hotel in the European style). 
 
 In the same street there is a good French Cafe with a garden. 
 
 If the traveller is induced by the delightful climate of Tunis (lowest 
 temperature about 50°, highest 95°) to make a prolonged stay, he should 
 engage private lodgings. 
 
 Guides. None should be engaged but those recommended by the hotel- 
 keepers or other respectable persons (5 fr. per day). If the following plan 
 be adopted, a boy will suffice ( 2 x /2 fr. per day). 
 
 English Consul , Mr. Reade; American , Mr. G. H. Heap. 
 
 Plan for a short visit. Immediately on arriving, the traveller should 
 call on his consul and exhibit his passport. The police require this to be 
 done, and it is the invariable practice ; but no other passport formalities 
 
376 Route 45. 
 
 TUNIS. 
 
 Excursion 
 
 are now necessary. The next thing is to make arrangements at the con- 
 sulate for visiting the Bardo the following day. The evening may be 
 spent in walking about the town, or in visiting one of the numerous coffee- 
 houses, where the Muslim may be seen over his pipe and coffee. The 
 performances of Jewish dancing-girls , calling themselves Moors, accom- 
 panied by excruciating negro music, may also be witnessed ; but such ex- 
 hibitions should only be visited under the escort of some one acquainted 
 with the language of the country. — 1st Day: In the morning proceed 
 by railway (not used in summer- or, better still, by carriage, 4-7 fr.) 
 to the Bardo and inspect the interior; after dinner walk to the Hammam 
 Lif and the vicinity; in the evening walk through the town or visit the 
 Italian theatre. — 2nd Day : Excursion to the Ruins of Carthage , for which 
 there is time in the morning before the departure of the steamboat if the 
 first train from Tunis to Goletta be taken, and no unnecessary delay 
 occur. On returning from Marsa to Goletta the traveller should at once 
 go on board the steamboat. Dinner is served immediately after starting. 
 
 Permission to visit the Bardo (p. 378) must be obtained through the 
 traveller’s consul. Application is made by letter to the Minister for 
 Foreign Affairs, who procures a personal permission from the Bey him- 
 self, which is quite indispensable, but is always granted. The visit may 
 be made any afternoon except a Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath. When 
 the permission is obtained, the consul sends his dragoman with it to the 
 Bardo for examination, and arranges with the traveller as to the hour 
 of starting, which is usually 9 a.m. At the time appointed the dragoman 
 will be found waiting in the piazza, and, when the traveller appears, 
 takes his place on the box beside the driver. If, however, the Bey is 
 residing at one of his villas near the Bardo , the consul merely gives 
 his dragoman a letter of introduction, which he presents for examination 
 at the Foreign Office in the Bardo whilst the visitor remains in the 
 waiting-room. If the Bey is engaged the traveller may have to wait 
 half-an-hour or more before the permission is obtained. Meanwhile he 
 may procure from one of the black servants in attendance near the 
 waiting-room a small cup of coffee prepared in Arabian fashion (2 charubs, 
 or about 5 centimes). The attendants at the Bardo are prohibited from ac- 
 cepting any gratuity for showing the rooms. The dragoman’s fee is 
 5-10 fr., according to the number of the party. 
 
 On the day of his arrival the traveller may also procure from the 
 French Consulate a permission to visit the chapel of St. Louis (p. 378). 
 
 The Kingdom, or, as it is more commonly called, the Regency, of 
 Tunis , which , since 1575 , has been under the suzerainty of the Sultan 
 of Turkey, occupies an area of 70,000 square M. , and contains about 2 
 million inhabitants. The present Bey, Mohammed Essadok Pasha , who 
 was born in 1813, is a descendant of the Hussein family, which has 
 occupied the throne since 1691 ; and the heir-apparent, according to the 
 Osman law of succession , is his eldest brother, Sidi Ali. The country is 
 divided into 24 districts and 36 sub-districts , the former being presided 
 over by caids (governors) and caliphs (sub-governors) , the latter by 
 mescheiks. These officials are appointed by the Bey, to whom they pay 
 a heavy tax during their tenure of office. The code of law of the country 
 is the Kharaa, an excerpt from the Koran, with additions and ampli- 
 fications, the decision of cases for which it does not provide being 
 left to the discretion of the judge. The supreme judge is the Bey him- 
 self, who usually holds a court twice a week. The above-mentioned 
 officials are the district-judges, against whose decisions an appeal to the 
 Bey is competent. Spectators are admitted to the inferior courts, but the 
 Bey does not readily grant access to his own court. The judgment of the 
 supreme court is followed by immediate execution. The slavery of white 
 persons was abolished in 1816, that of blacks in 1844. The armaments of 
 the country, which have greatly declined of late years, now consist of an 
 army of about 4000 regular troops and 12,000 irregular troops, and a navy 
 of four vessels only. The equipment, food, and pay of the men are 
 extremely poor. The administration of the finances , formerly in a most 
 deplorable condition from having been left entirely to the caprice of the 
 
to Tunis. 
 
 TUNIS. 
 
 45. Route. 377 
 
 favourites of the Bey, is now entrusted to a ‘European Finance Com- 
 mission' 1 , independent of the government, having been appointed in con- 
 sequence of the intervention of the Great Powers in 1869 $ but even this 
 system is complained of. 
 
 Monet. The current coins of the country are piastres and charnbs : 
 1 piastre=16 silver charubs=24 copper charubs ; 32 piastres=20 francs= 
 16 shillings. A piastre is therefore worth about sixpence, and U /2 piastre 
 about one franc, but the rate of exchange varies. Francs are exchanged 
 without difficulty, but this is not the case with English, and still less so 
 with other money. 
 
 In and around Tunis the safety of the public is efficiently provided 
 for, but the traveller should not make excursions in the interior unattended. 
 
 Tunis , the capital of the regency of that name, and next to 
 Cairo the largest town in Africa, contains upwards of 120,000 inhab., 
 of whom about one-fifth are native Jews, and one-tenth Europeans 
 of various nationalities, chiefly Italians, Maltese, Greeks, and French. 
 The remainder are Moors, Arabs, Turks, Berbers, and negroes. The 
 Europeans reside almost exclusively in the European Quarter ( Cittd, 
 Franca ), which is situated at the S.E. end of the town, and includes 
 the piazza of the Marine Gate. The Jews also for the most part 
 keep to their own quarter, which is the dirtiest part of the town, 
 while that of the Moors is the cleanest. Various phases of Oriental 
 life may be witnessed in the narrow and sometimes unpaved streets. 
 The town contains the tombs of numerous Mohammedan saints. 
 It is supplied with excellent running water from the springs of 
 Ssaghuan (p. 380), an ancient Carthaginian aqueduct being utilised 
 for part of the distance (p. 378). 
 
 The *Bazaar with its numerous rows of shops presents a very 
 interesting scene. It consists of seventeen distinct divisions, named 
 sitfcs, each of which is generally devoted to the sale of articles of 
 one particular class : in the Suk el-Khbebja (‘throwsters’) are sold 
 fringes and silk wares ; in the Suk el-Attarin the exquisite Oriental 
 essences only ; in the Suk el-Birka (formerly the slave-market) 
 jewellery of every kind and ancient coins ; and at the two lateral 
 approaches, burnus, haiks, scarfs, etc. 
 
 The Palace of the Bey {Bar el-Bey\ which is usually occupied 
 by him during the month of Ramadan only , the Mohammedan 
 month of fasting, and also a kind of carnival season, contains an 
 interesting small round saloon, with a dome and beautifully execu- 
 ted stucco-work in a style introduced by Moors from Spain. 
 
 Near the Dar el-Bey, on the highest ground in the city, rises 
 the Khasba, an extensive, half-dilapidated, and still half-fortified 
 citadel dating from the time of the Emperor Charles V. and com- 
 manding a fine survey of the city and environs. In the vicinity 
 is also the palace of the Ferik , or governor of the city, near which 
 there are pleasant promenades. 
 
 The Mosques , in the Moorish style, with their slender minarets, 
 can only be inspected externally, admission to them, as well as to 
 the numerous Mohammedan unenclosed burial-grounds in and near 
 the city, being orously denied to unbelievers. 
 
378 Route 45. 
 
 CARTHAGE. 
 
 Excursion 
 
 The pleasantest promenade is the Marine Avenue , which ex- 
 tends from the gate next to the El Bahira bay as far as the Dogana 
 and the quay for small boats. 
 
 About 2 M. to the N.W. of Tunis is situated the *Bardo (adm. 
 see p. 376), an extensive pile of buildings resembling a town in 
 miniature, where the Bey has his seat of government in winter, con- 
 taining also the headquarters of his army and a state-prison. 
 
 The Staircase of the principal building is adorned on each side with 
 lions of poor Italian workmanship. The Vestibule to which the stairs 
 lead is adorned with elaborate Moorish stucco-work. Between 3 and 4 
 p. m. visitors may be present here at the Salam Alek, or ‘salute 1 which 
 is performed in honour of the Sultan of Turkey by the master of the 
 ceremonies in the name of the Bey, and is accompanied by drums and 
 fifes. To the right of the vestibule is the Throne Room, containing numer- 
 ous and for the most part miserably bad portraits of Beys and Tunisian 
 dignitaries, and a number of valuable gifts from foreign sovereigns. The 
 Balcony commands a fine view of the lake which occupies the ground 
 beyond the hills of Tunis. 
 
 Adjacent to the Bardo is the chateau of Kasr Seicl , where the 
 Bey resides. Near it is the Manuba , a group of villas belonging 
 to the Bey and his magnates, and here also is the above-men- 
 tioned Carthaginian Aqueduct , which is still used. 
 
 The Ruins of Carthage (Sidi-Bu-Said, Marsa, and Kamart) 
 may be visited either from Tunis or from Goletta by carriage (about 
 8 fr). The railway passes the ruins and goes as far as Marsa (or 
 Mersa, p. 379), but does not suit the requirements of the tourist. 
 A small chapel on the hill nearest to Goletta was erected by Louis 
 Philippe in 1841 to the memory of his ancestor Louis the Saint, 
 who died here in 1270 when engaged in a crusade against Tunis. 
 The garden in which the chapel stands, and which commands a 
 fine view (admission, see p. 376), contains Roman inscriptions and 
 reliefs of the Imperial era, found in the course of excavations in- 
 stituted by the French government. There is also a fragment of 
 old wall here, with two niches. This hill was doubtless the site 
 of the Byrsa , or ancient citadel of Carthage. A large vaulted struc- 
 ture of brick, supposed to have been a reservoir, as well as the 
 extensive ruins by the sea, belong to the Roman Carthage. The 
 outline of the earlier city is no longer traceable in consequence of 
 its having so frequently been destroyed, and the site itself has also 
 undergone extensive changes. Mommsen in his History of Rome 
 gives the following account of this interesting locality : — 
 
 ‘ Carthage was rendered a place of great strength, partly by the nature 
 of its situation, and partly by the skilful construction of its walls, to which 
 the inhabitants were frequently compelled to trust for protection. (The 
 configuration of the coast has in the course of centuries been so changed that 
 the ancient local peculiarities of the site cannot now be thoroughly appre- 
 ciated. The name of the town still survives in Cape Carthagena , also 
 called Ras Sidi-Bu-Said from the tomb of a saint situated there. This 
 promontory is the E. extremity of the peninsula which extends into the 
 bay, and rises to a height of 400 ft. above the sea-level.) In the spacious 
 Bay of Tunis, bounded on the W. by Cape Farina, and on the E. by Cape 
 Bon, a promontory projects in the direction from W. to E., three sides of 
 which are washed by the sea, the remaining side towards the W. alone 
 
to Tunis. 
 
 CARTHAGE. 
 
 45. Route. 379 
 
 being connected with the mainland. This promontory, the narrowest part 
 of which is not above M. in breadth, and altogether somewhat flat, 
 expands as it abuts on the bay and terminates in the two heights of 
 Jebel-Khavi and Sidi-Bu-Said. Between these extends the plain of El 
 Marsa, on the S. portion of which, bounded by the height of Sidi-Bu-Said, 
 lay the city of Carthage. The somewhat precipitous fall of this height 
 towards the sea , with its numerous cliffs and chasms , afforded a natural 
 protection to the city on the side towards the bay, where a simple ram- 
 part sufficed \ whilst the land side on the W., being unprotected by natural 
 means, was provided with a wall constructed with the utmost care and 
 ingenuity. . . . The castle-hill, or Byrsa (Syriac birtha = castle), was a com- 
 paratively lofty rock, 188 ft. in height and IV 2 M. in circumference, 
 abutting on the S. extremity of the wall, in the same way as the cliff of 
 the Roman Capitol advances so as to touch the ramparts of the city. The 
 upper plateau of the eminence was occupied by a vast temple of the patron 
 deity, founded on a basement approached by 60 steps. The S.W. side of the 
 city was bounded by the shallow lake of Tunis, which was almost entirely 
 separated from the bay by a low and narrow tongue of land projecting from 
 the Carthaginian peninsula ; on the S. E. side lay the open bay. On the 
 latter side was situated the double harbour of the city, constructed by arti- 
 ficial means : the outer or commercial harbour was an oblong quadrangle 
 with the narrower end towards the sea, from the entrance to which, 70 ft. 
 in breadth only, broad quays extended on both sides ; the inner or naval 
 harbour, the Kothon, was of a circular form, accessible from the outer, and 
 containing an island in the centre occupied by the admiral’s residence. The 
 two were separated by the city-wall, which extending E. from the Byrsa, 
 excluded the neck of land and the outer, but included the naval harbour, 
 so that the entrance to the latter must have been closed by a gate. In the 
 vicinity of the naval harbour was situated the market-place, connected by 
 three narrow streets with the castle, which was open towards the town. 
 To the N. of, and outside the town lay the considerable space of the 
 present El Mersa, at that period called Magalia, principally occupied by 
 country-residences and carefully cultivated gardens, and enclosed by a 
 rampart of its own adjoining the city-wall. On the opposite extremity of 
 the peninsula, the Jebel-Khavi, near the modern village of Kamart, 
 was situated the city of tombs. Thus the city, the suburb, and the tombs 
 occupied the entire width of the promontory on the side towards the bay 
 and were accessible only by the two high-roads to Utica and Tunis which 
 traversed the narrow neck of land already described. The latter, although 
 not protected by a wall, afforded the most advantageous position to 
 armies posted there for the protection of the city. 1 
 
 Karthada , or ‘new town 1 , as the city was originally called, was founded 
 by the Phoenicians (Dido), about B.C. 880, and subsequently became their 
 most important colony. It was unsuccessfully besieged by Agathocles, but 
 was taken and entirely destroyed by Scipio in 146. Augustus established 
 a Roman colony here, which owing to the incomparable situation of the 
 town and the fertility of its environs, soon attained the rank of the third 
 city of the empire. In A.D. 439 it was conquered by Genseric and made 
 the capital of the Vandal empire, but in 533 succumbed to the attacks of 
 Belisarius. The supremacy of the Byzantine emperors was subverted by 
 the Arabs in 647, and the city destroyed. 
 
 The region of Kamart (see above), with its shifting sand-hills, 
 affords some idea of the appearance of the desert. Near it, on the 
 Sebkha el-Ruan , are salt-works belonging to the government. 
 
 Excursions may also he made to the Belvedere , an eminence 
 y 4 hr. from the town, with a fine view; and to Ariane , a village with 
 pleasant villas, l 1 /* M. distant, which yields the finest roses in this 
 district. 
 
 We may also drive to the warm springs and baths of Hammam 
 
380 Route 46 . 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 From Brindisi 
 
 Lif (marked H. el Enf on the map 5 carriage in 4-5 hrs., 8-10 fr.). 
 The road passes a Mohammedan burial-ground with sacred burial- 
 chapels, and the village of Sidi Fethallah. Hammam Lif is a water- 
 ing-place situated at the base of a hill, where the extensive palace 
 of a former Bey is used for the accommodation of guests (no restau- 
 rant ; the visitor must therefore carry his own provisions). 
 
 The excursion to Utica takes a whole day. The ruins of this very 
 ancient Phoenician seaport, which was afterwards the headquarters of a 
 Roman proconsul, where the younger Cato committed suicide (B.C. 46) on 
 the overthrow of Pompey’s party in the civil war against Caesar, are now 
 situated 5 M. from the coast. 
 
 The hot springs of Hammam Gorbos may either be visited by boat from 
 Goletta, or from Tunis by carriage, via Hammam Lif and Soliman. 
 
 The ruins of Ssaghuan may be reached by carriage in about 7 hrs. ; 
 on the following day the Jebel Ssaghuan (4445 ft.), which commands an 
 extensive view, may be ascended. Quarters for the night may be obtained 
 of the sheikh in the Dar el-Bey at Ssaghuan, on presenting an introduction 
 from the consul, but blankets and provisions must be brought from Tunis. 
 
 Keff , with its numerous ruins, lies 94 M. inland, to the S.W., and 
 may be visited by carriage in three days. 
 
 Sfax , a seaport situated on the Bay of Gabes , or the Little Syrte, to 
 the S. , may be reached by a steamer of the Rubattino Co. , leaving 
 Goletta on Wednesday afternoons, touching at Susa, Monastier , and Melidia , 
 and arriving at Sfax on Friday mornings. On the way thither a carriage 
 may be ordered at Susa to meet the traveller at Sfax. He may then drive 
 by El Jem , with the ruins of an amphitheatre, and by Kayruan , if time 
 permit, to Susa, where the steamer returning from Sfax touches on Satur- 
 days at 6 p. m. 
 
 46. From Brindisi to Corfu. 
 
 A Steamboat of the Austrian Lloyd leaves Brindisi for Corfu every 
 Friday night, and one of the Florio Co. every Sunday night, making the trip 
 in about 12 hrs. (fares, 1st cl. 3772 fr., 2nd cl. 26 fr.). The former returns 
 on Thurs. night, the latter on Tues. night. There is also regular steamboat 
 communication between Corfu and Trieste, the Pirseus, Alexandria, etc. 
 
 • — Money in Corfu, see p. 384. The only banknotes in circulation are 
 those of the Ionian Bank ; the notes of the Greek National Bank are not 
 generally accepted. 
 
 Brindisi , see p. 203. On quitting the harbour the steamer at 
 once steers towards the E., and the land soon disappears. Next 
 day towards morning the outlines of Albania (Turkey) come in 
 sight; then the island of Corfu; and the strikingly beautiful 
 situation of the town is soon disclosed. 
 
 Corfu. — Arrival. Boat to or from the steamer 1 fr. ; the boatmen 
 are insolent, there is no tariff, and great confusion prevails, so that the 
 traveller had better allow the commissionnaire of the hotel to settle with 
 the boatmen and attend to the luggage. The custom-house examination 
 is quickly over. 
 
 Hotels. -Hotel d’ANGLETERRE & Belle Venise, good cuisine, pens. 
 10 fr., for a long stay 8 fr. ; -Hotel St. George, similar charges; these 
 two are of the first class, and situated on the Esplanade. — The following 
 are less pretending Greek houses : Hotel du Club , next door to^ the 
 
 Hotel d'Angleterre ; Hotel de la Ville ; Hotel des Sept-Iles; Hotel 
 de Constantinople, near the harbour. — Wine of Corfu, 1 fr. per bottle, 
 other Greek wines 2-4 fr. — Private Lodgings very primitive, scarcely 
 adapted for strangers. 
 
 Restaurants. L'Abbondance ; National.- — Cafes. Arcadion, Caffb Nuovo 
 
to Corfu. 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 46. Route. 381 
 
 al Leone , both in the Esplanade. — Beer in the Calle dei Mercanti, near 
 the two large hotels } Vienna beer U/ 2 , native V 2 fr. per bottle. 
 
 Physicians. Dr. Polite ; Dr. Neranzi; Dr. Cirigotti , etc. — Druggists. 
 Collas ; Lavarono. — Baths at the hotels. 
 
 British Consul : Sir C. Sebright. 
 
 Post Office, adjoining the Sanita, at the entrance to the town from 
 the sea. — Telegraph Office for Greece in the Esplanade. English office, 
 for England and other countries , in the Via Murajo , near the royal 
 palace. 
 
 Carriages, 5 fr. per drive in the town or environs } for longer ex- 
 cursions, see below. 
 
 Valets-de-Place are useful when time is limited (5 fr. per day). 
 The traveller should ask to be escorted through the town and across the 
 esplanade to the citadel. 
 
 Theatre. Italian opera in winter. 
 
 Climate. In the latter half of March, in April, and May the climate 
 of Corfu is usually delicious , and a residence here at that season, amid 
 its luxuriant vegetation, is delightful. The temperature is also mild and 
 equable during September and October, but June , July , and August are 
 very hot, and in winter heavy rains and sudden changes of temperature 
 are of frequent occurrence. As a winter residence for invalids, particu- 
 larly those with pulmonary complaints, it therefore compares unfavourably 
 with the best-known health-resorts of Italy. 
 
 Corfu , the capital of the island of the same name, with 25,000 
 inhab. (including the suburbs of Castrades and Mantuki ), and the 
 seat of government for the Ionian Islands , is one of the most 
 beautiful towns in Modern Greece. The spacious and safe harbour 
 is enlivened with a busy trade. The fortifications constructed by 
 the Venetians, the Fortezza Vecchia to the E. of the town and the 
 Fortezza Nuova on the N.W., were formerly of great strength, but 
 are now unimportant. 
 
 Corfu (Gr. XtQXVQU, Lat. Corcyra ), the second, but most important of 
 the Ionian Islands, was supposed by the ancients to be Scheria, the land 
 of the Phseaci and of their king Alcinous. Colonised from Corinth at an 
 early period (B.C. 734), its power increased so greatly as to become dan- 
 gerous to its mother-city^ and this was one of the chief causes of the 
 Peloponnesian War. In the middle ages the island was under Venetian 
 supremacy (1386 to 1797) } from 1815 to 1864 it was, with the other Ionian 
 Islands, under the protection of England and the seat of government, after 
 which it was ceded to the kingdom of Greece. King George has frequently 
 resided here in summer. 
 
 A few yards from the large hotels is the Esplanade, an ex- 
 tensive open space , partly surrounded by arcades , from which 
 diverge the road leading to the chief harbour and the street skirting 
 the sea and traversing the S. suburb of Castrades. On the N. side 
 of the Esplanade rises the grey palace formerly occupied by the 
 British Lord High Commissioner. To the W., reaching as far as 
 the fortress, lies the greater portion of the town, among the crowded 
 houses of which rise the tower of the Spiliotissa (Cathedral) and 
 the church of the Hagios Spyridon , the patron-saint of the island. 
 
 The Esplanade is traversed by a carriage-road, flanked with 
 trees, at the end of which rises a monument commemorating the 
 gallant defence of Corfu by the Venetian general Count von der 
 Schulenburg in 1716. The road then leads across a canal to the — 
 
382 Route 46. 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 From Brindisi 
 
 *Fortbzza Yecchia. Passing between the fortifications, we 
 reach a small oblong Piazza , from which two flights of steps ascend 
 to the wooden drawbridges. The sombre walls are embosomed in 
 dense vegetation. The W. part of the fortress, which we first 
 enter, lies somewhat higher than the E. portion projecting into the 
 sea. A tolerable flight of steps ascends to the platform on the W. 
 side, permission to visit which is obtained at the citadel itself. It 
 commands a superb view of the town of Corfu, of the whole island 
 from Cape Cassopo on the N. to Cape Bianco on the S., of Monte 
 Salvatore (p. 383), etc. Opposite to us lies the Turkish coast of 
 Epirus with its lofty mountains, stretching as far as SuliandParga. 
 
 The antiquarian will also be interested in the Monument of 
 Menecrates , at the entrance to the suburb of Castrades, dating from 
 the 5th cent. B.C., and discovered in 1843 on the removal of the 
 Venetian fortifications. The metrical inscription informs us that 
 Menecrates, son of Tlasias, from Oianthe in Locris, was Proxenos 
 (representative) of his native town at Corcyra, and that he perished 
 by drowning. The antique lion in the vestibule of the king’s pa- 
 lace at Corfu (admission free), which was found in this neighbour- 
 hood, perhaps formed part of the monument. — The Dimarchia 
 (town -hall) contains an ancient capital with well-preserved 
 colouring. 
 
 Several charming ^Excursions may be made from the capital 
 into the interior of the island, which, thanks to the English ad- 
 ministration, is almost everywhere traversed by good carriage-roads. 
 The chief product of the island is oil. 
 
 To the South. — To Kanone , a pleasant walk of 2 hrs., or 
 drive of 1 hr. (carr. there and back in 2 hrs., fare 5 fr.). We follow 
 the Strada Nuova, along the harbour, to the suburb of Castrades , 
 and reach a red house on the right, whence a road leads to the 
 royal villa of Monrepos , generally known as the Casino , with ex- 
 tensive gardens (open on Thurs. and Sun. afternoons). Beyond 
 the villa we ascend to the left to the village of Andlipsis , near 
 which the interesting ruins of a small building, apparently a 
 hexastyle peripteral temple, were discovered in 1822. The N. and 
 W. walls of the cella are particularly well preserved. Portions of 
 the shafts of several columns lie in the vicinity. We now follow 
 a footpath, through olive-plantations, and in 10 min. regain the 
 road, by which in 10 min. more we reach Kanone , the old harbour, 
 where the Phseacian city is supposed to have stood. (In winter 
 oranges may be bought in the wayside gardens at 5 c. each.) The 
 islet of Pondikonissi (rat-island ), opposite Kanone, now occupied 
 by a monastery, is said to be the Phacacian ship, converted into 
 stone, which had brought Ulysses to Ithaca, while the mouth of 
 the brook near the neighbouring village of Kressida is pointed out 
 as the place where he was cast ashore and met with the princess 
 Nausicaa. 
 
to Corfu . 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 46. Route. 383 
 
 The excursion may be pleasantly extended by crossing from Kanone 
 to Kressida by boat (V 2 fr.) ; we then ascend gradually, cross the aqueduct, 
 and reach (1 hr.) Oaruna. Hence (guide advisable) we may ascend the 
 (20 min.) Kiriaki , a hill commanding a magnificent panorama. The de- 
 scent is made to a carriage-road, which we follow (taking occasional short- 
 cuts) to the fishing-village of (1 hr.) Benizze ; thence by boat (3 fr.) to the 
 Str. Nuova at Castrades. The whole excursion occupies about 7 hrs. — Many 
 of the women of Benizze and Garuna are remarkable for their beauty. 
 
 To the Monte S. Deca , Greek Hagii Deka. We drive to the 
 village of the same name at the foot of the hill (carr. 10-12 fr.), 
 and then ascend with a guide to the top in 1 hour. Splendid pano- 
 rama, especially of the Albanian coast. We descend by a rough 
 goat-path to (1 hr.) Garuna and thence walk to (^hr.) S. Teodoro 
 or Hagios Theddoros , where the carriage should he ordered to meet 
 us. The drive hence to Corfu occupies 1^2 hr. 
 
 To the West. — To Pelleka (a drive of 4 hrs., carr. there 
 and back 10 fr.) and the W. coast of the island, of which a fine 
 view is enjoyed, very beautiful towards sunset. A good road. 
 
 To the North. — To Govino , with the remains of a Venetian 
 arsenal, situated on a beautiful hay. Drive back by the village of 
 Potamd . 
 
 To the Monte S . Salvatore. We first proceed by boat (in 1-1 ^ 
 hr. ; 12-15 fr.) to the landing-place below the village of Signes , 
 which we reach on foot in 1 hour. Asteep and narrow path ascends 
 from the village in 1 hr. to the summit of the Monte S. Salvatore, 
 Greek Pantokrator (2988 ft.), on which lie the ruins of a mon- 
 astery. The view embraces almost the whole of the island of 
 Corfu; to the N.W., the Othonian Islands; to the E., the main- 
 land, with the Acroceraunian promontory rising above the Sybota 
 Isles and Parga, and the Mts. of Suli in the background ; to the S., 
 the island of Cephalonia with Monte Nero ; to the W., the sea. The 
 return-route should he made by Spartilla and Ipso , where the boat 
 should he in waiting. 
 
 To tbe Monastery of Paleocastrizza, a whole day, carriage 20 fr., a 
 very pleasant road with beautiful views. Refreshments at the monastery. 
 
 To Monte Pantaleone, also a whole day, carriage 20 fr. — Excellent 
 road as far as the last saddle of the mountain , whence a path to the 
 left ascends to the summit in 6-8 min. ; delightful view of the whole is- 
 land. For these last two excursions refreshments should be taken from 
 the hotel. 
 
 47. From Naples or from Brindisi (Corfu) to Athens. 
 
 The regular steamboat-services between Greece and Naples , Brindisi, 
 and Trieste, will enable the traveller to make this excursion in 8-10 days, 
 inclusive of the voyage to and fro. Those, therefore, who have extended 
 their tour as far as S. Italy, and whose time and finances permit, should 
 not omit to undertake this expedition $ especially as a short visit to this 
 famous city, the true cradle of the culture of the West, will be found 
 more instructive than years of study. Compare Introd., p. xli. 
 
 (1). From Naples to Athens (Piraeus) the steamers of the following 
 companies ply regularly (consult the time-tables, and enquire at the offices 
 as to the hours of departure) : — 1. Fraissinet & Co., every Sunday after- 
 
384 Route 47. 
 
 CAPO DELL’ ARMI, 
 
 Excursion 
 
 noon, 1st class 120, 2nd cl. 80 fr. •, arriving at the Piraeus on Thursdays at 
 noon (leaving again on Saturday forenoons and reaching Naples at noon 
 on Tuesdays). — 2. Messageries Maritime s de France , every alternate Mon- 
 day at 5 p. m.; fare 190 or 140 fr.; arriving on Thursday afternoons. (An- 
 other steamer of the same company starts every alternate week for Syra , 
 an island in the Greek Archipelago carrying on a brisk trade, from which, 
 after a stay of two days, the traveller may reach the Piraeus by a Greek 
 steamer ; but this indirect route is not recommended.) — A steamer of the 
 Florio Co. leaves Messina every Tues. night, and follows the same course 
 as the above, calling at Catania on Wed. forenoons and reaching the 
 Piraeus on Frid. afternoons. 
 
 (2). From Trieste and Brindisi to Athens (Piraeus). — Austrian Lloyd : 
 1. Vid Syra. One steamer starts from Trieste on Sat. forenoons, arriving 
 at Corfu on Monday afternoons, leaving Corfu on Mon. evenings, and 
 reaching Syra on Wed. mornings; here we change to another steamer, 
 starting on Wed. evening and reaching the Piraeus next morning. [Return- 
 steamer from the Piraeus for Syra on Sat. evening, leaving Syra on Sun. 
 morning, and arriving at Corfu at 8 a.m. on Tues., and at Trieste on Thurs. 
 evening.] A second steamer of the Austrian Lloyd leaves Trieste on Tues. 
 afternoon, reaching Brindisi on Frid. morning and leaving it at midnight ; 
 Corfu on Sat. afternoon, leaving the same evening ; Zante on Sun. evening ; 
 Cerigo, Mon. afternoon; Syra, Tues. morning; and thence to the Piraeus 
 as above. [Return from Syra, Mon. evening; Corfu, Thurs. evening; 
 Brindisi , Frid. night ; Trieste, Monday.] — 2. Vid Patras. Start from 
 Trieste every alternate Thurs. at 4 p.m. ; from Corfu , following Sun. 
 afternoon ; from Patras, Mon. afternoon (beautiful passage across the Gulf 
 of Corinth); reach the Piraeus on Thurs. at 8 a.m. [Return every alternate 
 Sat. morning ; Corfu, Tues. at noon ; Trieste, Sun. night.] — Instead of 
 proceeding farther by the Lloyd steamer, mentioned under No. 1, we may 
 change at Corfu to a vessel of the Greek company ('ElhjVLv.i] dxfAon'koiy.rj 
 X E% aiQLu), starting from Corfu on Tuesday afternoons, and proceeding via 
 Zante, Cephalonia (halting one hour at each), and Patras (halt of 3 hrs.) 
 to New Corinth , from which the isthmus is crossed to Kalamaki by car- 
 riage in V 2 -l hour. Travellers by this last route book themselves and 
 their luggage through to Kalamaki, in order that they may not have to 
 look after their luggage on arriving at Corinth, where they will find car- 
 riages in waiting for the drive across the isthmus (so also at Kalamaki 
 in the reverse direction). From Kalamaki a steamboat then conveys the 
 traveller to the Piraeus , arriving on Thursday afternoons. Fare from 
 Corfu to the Piraeus by this route 90 drachmas, and 6 dr. daily for food. 
 
 Money. The French system has been introduced into Greece : 1 drachma 
 (franc) = 100 lepta (centimes). The old drachma was worth 90 c. only. 
 The name franc is generally used only in reckoning with strangers. It 
 is always advisable to have it specified whether prices are to be paid in 
 gold, silver, or paper. 
 
 From Naples to the Piraeus . 
 
 The views as the harbour is quitted, and the voyage as 
 far as the strait of Messina, see p. 222-223. The passage of 
 the strait is magnificent. After l 1 ^ hr. the vessel is off the 
 Capo delV Armi , the S.W. promontory of Calabria. To the W. 
 rise the mountains of Sicily, terminated apparently by the noble 
 pyramid of iEtna. The vessel then steers towards the E., 
 skirting the coast of Calabria , the barren mountains of which 
 continue visible for a considerable time. On the second day the 
 vessel is completely out of sight of land , hut on the third 
 the Cape of Messenia (now Capo Gallo ), with the Oenussae 
 Islands (now Sapienza and Cabrera) in front of it , becomes 
 
to Athens. 
 
 PSYTTALEIA. 
 
 47. Route. 385 
 
 visible. The steamboat then approaches the sharp point of Cape 
 Taenaron , now C. Matapan [ 36°, 22', 58"), the most southerly 
 in Europe except the Cape Tariffa in Spain (35°, 59', 57"). 
 The arid and stony peninsula which is terminated by this cape 
 is the Maina , the home of the Mainotes so often celebrated in 
 song. A view is then disclosed of the broad Laconian Gulf, 
 into which the Eurotas (now Iri ) flows , while in the extreme 
 distance the white heights of the Taygetus appear. The vessel 
 next steers between Cape Malea (on the S. side of which there 
 is a hermit’s cell) and the island of Cythera (now Cerigo), the 
 seat of the most ancient worship of Venus. The bleak and 
 abrupt coast, where on a solitary rock Monembasia , in the vicinity 
 of which Malmsey wine was originally produced, is visible, is now 
 quitted, and the islands of Spezzae and Hydra , lying in front of 
 the district of Argolis , are approached. The inhabitants of these 
 islands distinguished themselves greatly in the Greek War of 
 Independence. The mountains of Crete (Candia) are visible to the 
 S.E. for some time after we have left Cerigo behind us. On the 
 right rise several rocky islets belonging to the Cyclades , among 
 them Falconera and Anti-Milos. The pyramidal peak of St. Elias 
 (1742ft.), the highest mountain in the island of JEgina , now soon 
 becomes visible. On the right lies the island of Belbina , and beyond 
 it the hilly promontory of Attica, Laurion with its ancient silver- 
 mines, and the promontory of Sunion , with its ruined temple. — 
 The steamer now steers towards the Piraeus and the coast of Sala- 
 mis with its numerous bays ; on both sides the island appears to be 
 connected with the mainland. The barren, rounded hill next visible 
 in Attica, at first greatly foreshortened, is Hymettus ; in a straight 
 direction Parnes forms the N. boundary of the Attic plain. Above 
 Salamis (now Kulurt) peeps the lofty summit of the Gerania in 
 Megaris. A low hill extending into the sea, behind which a number 
 of masts rise, now becomes visible. This is the Piraeus , the hill 
 a short distance inland is Munychia, and in front of it lies the 
 Bay of Plialeron, the original harbour of Athens. Between Hymet- 
 tus and Parnes the regularly shaped Pentelicon (now Penteli ), 
 next appears. At this point the steamer commands a charming 
 *View of Athens ; in the centre the Acropolis, to the right the 
 monument of Philopappus, to the left the observatory. The large, 
 white building to the N. of the Acropolis is the Palace , beyond 
 which rises the Lycabettus (now Mt. St. George ). — As soon as 
 the promontory of the Piraeus has been rounded, we perceive the 
 rocky islet of Psyttaleia , on which the Athenian ‘hoplites’ under 
 Aristides destroyed the flower of the Persian army after the Battle 
 of Salamis , situated in the narrow strait between Salamis and the 
 mainland , near the point where the battle raged most fiercely. On 
 the bank opposite the island was erected the silver throne of Xerxes 
 whence he witnessed the defeat of his vast fleet (B. C. 480). 
 
 Baedeker. Italy III. 7th Edition. 25 
 
386 Route 47. 
 
 PATRAS. 
 
 Excursion 
 
 An ancient monument to the right in the strait leading to the 
 harbour is styled the ‘Tomb of Themistocles’; above it is the monu- 
 ment of Miaulis, the victorious admiral in the wars of independence. 
 
 Piraeus, see p. 387. — Arrival. As soon as the steamer halts it is 
 surrounded hy a crowd of small boats , the owners of which noisily en- 
 deavour to attract the attention of the passengers ; at the same time the 
 hotel-touters push their way on board. Luggage had better be entrusted 
 to the commissionnaire of the hotel at which the traveller intends to stay, 
 and that official will then secure a boat and afterwards a carriage. The 
 boat (1 fr. or drachma; with lugagge 2 fr.) conveys the traveller to the 
 dogana, where the formality of examining luggage is generally lenient. 
 Carriage to Athens 5-6 drachmas, pleasanter than the railway (p. 388). 
 
 From Brindisi to the Piraeus hy Corfu and the 
 Isthmus of Corinth. 
 
 From Brindisi to Corfu , see R. 46. If time allows, the trav- 
 eller should not omit to go on shore at Corfu , first ascertaining 
 from the captain when the vessel starts again. 
 
 When the steamer quits the harbour, the Albanian Mountains 
 and the island remain in view. Before Capo Bianco , the S. 
 point of Corfu, is reached, the little islands of Paxo and Anti- 
 paxo (together called Ila£oi by the ancients) become visible ; the 
 steamer usually stops at the former. The mainland, the coast 
 of Epirus, now recedes ; here, at the mouth of the Ambracian 
 Gulf, near Actium , B.C. 31, Augustus laid the foundation of 
 his monarchy by the victory gained by his fleet over Antony. 
 The island of Sta . Maura (AeoxaSta) remains on the E. ; for 
 a short time Ithaca is seen to the S., but is soon concealed by 
 Cephalonia (KecpaXX'qvta), the largest of the Ionian Islands, 
 whose W. coast is now skirted; the harbour is on the S. side 
 in a deep bay, at the capital Argostoli. In the distance Zante 
 (Zctatuv&os) comes in sight, with the harbour of that name 
 (where a prolonged stay is sometimes made.) 
 
 The steamer now takes a N. direction ; opposite is the coast 
 of the Peloponnesus, the plain of Elis. The entrance of the Gulf 
 of Corinth is approached; to the left is the coast of ^Etolia, with 
 Missolonghi , noted for its valiant though fruitless defence against 
 Ibrahim Pasha in 1826. The steamer next touches at Patras (U ax- 
 pat), an important commercial town (25,000 inhab.), with consu- 
 lates of most of the European states, whence currants are largely 
 exported. Farther on, the steamers sometimes stop at Naupactos 
 ( Lepanto , celebrated for the naval victory of Don John of Austria 
 in 1571) on the Locrian shore, and at Vostitza (Atyio^) on the 
 Peloponnesian. To the right are the summits of Erymanthus, fre- 
 quently covered with snow, and those of Cyllene ; to the left are 
 Parnassus and Helicon ; the steamer skirts the coast of the Pelo- 
 
to Athens. 
 
 PIRAEUS. 
 
 47. Route. 387 
 
 ponnesus and stops at New Corinth , erected about 3 M. N. of 
 ancient Corinth after the total destruction of the latter by an earth- 
 quake in 1858. 
 
 Omnibuses are here in waiting, and convey travellers in 3 / 4 hr. 
 to Kalamdki , by a road partly constructed by the Austrian Lloyd. To 
 the left the high mountains of Megaris, Gerania (Tepaveta), are 
 seen 5 to the right the ruins of the wall which once crossed the 
 isthmus from sea to sea, and of the sliding road (Diolkos) for ships 
 and goods parallel to it. After a drive of ^2 h r - 5 some distance 
 from the road, are seen the scanty remains of the Isthmian Sanc- 
 tuary, where the Isthmian games were once celebrated in honour 
 of Poseidon. When the road descends, Kalamdki , the ancient 
 Schoinos , becomes conspicuous; immediately after the arrival of 
 the omnibuses the steamer starts for the Piraeus. To the right the 
 mountains of Corinth and Argos remain in view ; the summits of 
 Cyllene afterwards appear to the W. with Acrocorinth; to the E. 
 ^Egina emerges from the sea ; on the left are the barren heights of 
 Salamis, which here descend abruptly to the sea. As soon as it is 
 passed, the mountains of Attica become visible ; in the foreground 
 the hills surrounding Parnassus , farther S. the heights of Hy- 
 mettus. Landing at the Piraeus , see pp. 385, 386. 
 
 Road to Athens. The new part of the Piraeus, through which 
 the high-road to Athens leads, presents nothing worthy of note. 
 As soon as we have quitted the town, we observe traces of the 
 ancient walls of the Piraeus on the right, at the point where the 
 road rises slightly. The road itself is constructed on the long N. 
 wall which anciently connected the Piraeus with the city. Then 
 to the right appears the Monument of Caraiscakis , one of the heroes 
 of the War of Independence, situated near the spot where the long 
 S. wall united with the fortifications of the Piraeus. Beyond it 
 is the Bay of Phaleron, running far into the land. — The mountains 
 on the left now called Scaramanga , the AEgaleus and Poikilon of 
 antiquity, are low spurs of Parnes. A stone bridge here crosses 
 the generally dry bed of the Cephissus. Vineyards are then passed, 
 and, farther on, the outskirts of the ancient olive-grove which oc- 
 cupied the plain of the Cephissus are traversed. Carriages generally 
 stop to water the horses at some taverns halfway, where the tra- 
 veller may order a XouttoufMa (00 pron. 00 ), a sweetmeat composed 
 of sugar and rosewater, much in vogue in Turkey and Greece, or 
 a ‘petit verre’ (pari) of p.aoTi/a slightly guttural), a liquor of 
 not unpleasant flavour, which becomes milky in appearance when 
 diluted with water. Each of these refreshments costs 10 lepta 
 (Bstta Xeitxa, or 10 c.). — The olive-plantations are soon quitted, 
 and a hill passed which conceals the Acropolis from view. Beyond 
 the hill the well-preserved Temple of Theseus becomes visible be- 
 low ; on the right, above it, the Acropolis, in the background the 
 monument of Philopappus, in front of the latter the Areopagus, 
 
 25 * 
 
388 Route 47. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 and farther to the right the observatory. — The houses of Athens 
 soon exclude this view. 
 
 Railway to Athens. Trains run from the Pirieus to Athens 
 every hour (fares 1 dr., 60 1., 45 1. ). Immediately after leaving the 
 seaport the line crosses the road and traverses higher ground, 
 affording a survey of the olive-groves and the N. part of the plain 
 of Athens. The Station is at the foot of the Temple of Theseus, 
 at the lower end of the Hermes Street. 
 
 Athens. — Hotels. "Hotel d’Angleterre , R. 4-6, pension 12 fr. ; 
 ■Grande Bretagne; "Hotel des Etrangers, R. & L. 4-5, pens. 10 fr. ; 
 : Hotel New York, R. 3-5, pens. 10 fr. ; all in the Palace Square. Hotel 
 d^Ath^nes, with restaurant; Hotel d’Attique, etc. 
 
 A description of Athens by K. Biedeker, and sold by Wilberg 
 at Athens has been published in a separate form , and to this the 
 reader is in the mean time referred. A Handbook for Greece is in 
 course of preparation. 
 
INDEX 
 
 A bacaemtm 308. 
 Abbadiazza 316. 
 
 Abella 176. 
 
 Abellinum 176. 
 
 Acciano 190. 
 
 Accumoli 193. 
 
 Acerenza 207. 
 
 Acerra 10. 
 
 Acerrae 10. 
 
 Acesines 325. 
 
 Achates 301. 
 
 Acherontia 207. 
 Acherusian Lake 106. 
 Aci, Isola d' 326. 
 
 Aci Gastello 327. 
 Acireale 326. 
 
 AcAris 217. 
 
 Acts 326. 
 
 Acithis 282. 
 
 Acqua Dolce 307. 
 Acquasant.a 270. 
 Acquaviva 212. 
 
 * Platani 288. 
 
 Acrae 302. 
 
 Acragas 289. 
 
 Acrocorinth 387. 
 
 Actium 386. 
 
 Aderno 329. 
 jEgadian Islands 281. 
 JEgaleus 387. 
 jEgina 385. 
 
 JEgusa 281. 
 
 AEnaria 108. 
 jEolian Islands 317. 
 AEsernia 192. 
 iEtna, Mount 335. 
 
 JEtna 329. 
 
 S. Agata, near Sessa 18. 
 — , near Sorrento 156. 
 
 — , Sicily 307. 
 
 — de 1 Goti 187. 
 
 Ager Falernus 19. 
 
 — Taurianus 210. 
 Agerola 175. 
 
 Agira 297. 
 
 Agnano, Lago d 1 95. 
 
 S. Agnello 153. 
 
 Agno, T 10. 
 
 Agnone 343. 
 
 Agosta 343. 
 
 Agri, river 217. 
 Agrigentum 289. 
 Agrippina, Sepolcro 
 102 . 
 
 Agyrium 297. 
 
 Aigion 356. 
 
 Akrai 302. 
 
 Alabon 343. 
 
 Alaesa 306. 
 
 Alanno 188. 
 
 Alaro 220. 
 
 Alatri 2. 
 
 Alba Fucentia 196. 
 Albano 1. 
 
 Albe 196. 
 
 Alberi 157. 
 
 Alburnus 206. 
 
 Alcamo 273. 
 
 Alcantara, river 325. 327. 
 343. 
 
 Alessano 205. 
 
 S. Alessio 321. 
 
 — , Capo 321. 
 
 Alesus 306. 
 
 Aletrium 2. 
 
 S. Alfio 326. 
 
 Algliero 370. 
 
 Ali 321. 
 
 Alia 288. 
 
 Alicata 299. 
 
 Alicuri 320. 
 
 Alimena 278. 
 
 Altamura 206. 
 
 Altarello di Baida 268. 
 Altavilla 286. 
 
 Altilia 181. 
 
 Aluntium 307. 
 
 Amalfi 171. 
 
 Amandolea 220. 
 
 Amantea 223. 
 
 Amantia 223. 
 
 Amara, Monte 180. 188. 
 189. 
 
 Amaseno, river 12. 13. 
 Amatrice 193. 
 
 Amenanus 334. 
 Amendolara 218. 
 Amestratus 306. 
 Amiternum 191. 
 
 Amorosi 187. 
 
 Amyclae 15. 
 
 Anacapri 160. 
 d 1 Anagni 2. 
 
 Anagnia 2. 
 
 Analipsis 382. 
 
 Anapus, river 357. 
 Anazzo 203. 
 
 Ancona 178. 
 
 S. Andrea 220. 
 
 S. Andrea, Monte 15. 
 Andria 200. 
 
 S. Angelo, monastery 
 175. 
 
 — , Monte, near Sorrento 
 152. 
 
 — , — , Lipari 318. 319. 
 — , — , Volscians Mts. 1. 
 — , — . the Little 156. 174. 
 S. Angelo in Formis 9. 
 — a Guida 175. 
 
 Angri 163. 
 
 Antenna, Pizzo 305. 
 Antignano 91. 
 
 Anti-Milos 385. 
 
 S. Antimo 188. 
 
 Antinum 197. 
 
 S. Antioco 361. 
 
 Antipaxo 386. 
 
 S. Antonio 326. 
 Antrodoco 197. 
 
 Antullo, il Pozzo d 3. 
 Anxa 205. 
 
 Anxanum 180. 
 
 Anxur 13. 
 
 Apennines, the Central 
 193. 
 
 Apice 185. 
 
 Apollonia 306. 
 
 Apricena 181. 
 
 Aqua Cornelia 287. 
 
 — Julia 45. 
 
 Aquae Cutiliae 194. 
 Aquila 190. 
 
 Aquino 3. 
 
 Aquinum 3. 
 
 Aragona 289. 
 
 Aranci, Fiumara deir 308. 
 Arangia, Fiumara 308. 
 Arbore 157. 174. 
 
 Arce 198. 
 
390 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Arci, Monte 368. 
 
 Arco 212. 
 
 Arco Felice 104. 
 
 Arco Naturale on Capri 
 160. 
 
 near Sorrento 157. 
 
 Ardara 371. 
 
 Ardore 220. 
 
 Arena Bianca 210. 
 Arenella 91. 
 
 Argentario, Mte. 19. 
 Argolis 385. 
 
 Argostoli 386. 
 
 Argyripe 182. 
 
 Ariane 379. 
 
 Ariano 185. 
 
 — , Monte 1. 
 
 Ariccia 11. 
 
 Arienzo 10. 
 
 Aritzo 372. 
 
 Armi, Capo del V 220. 384. 
 Arpaia 10. 
 
 At pi 182. 
 
 Arpinas , Insula 197. 
 Arpino 198. 
 
 Arpinum 198. 
 
 Arsoli 197. 
 
 Artemisio, Monte 1. 
 Artesino, Monte 296. 
 
 Arx Volscorum 198. 
 Ascensione, Monte della 
 179. 
 
 Ascoli Piceno 179. 
 
 — Satriano 183. 
 
 Asculum Picenum, 179. 
 Asinara 361. 
 
 Asinarus 303. 
 
 Asinello 280. 
 
 Aso, brook 179. 
 
 Aspra 271. 
 
 Aspromonte, Mt. 221. 
 Assaro 297. 
 
 Assergi 191. 
 
 Assimini 368. 
 
 Assorus 297. 
 
 Astore, Monte 211. 
 Astroni 95. 
 
 Atella 207. 
 
 Atella 188. 
 
 Atena 208. 
 
 Aterno, river 189. 191. 
 194. 
 
 Athens 388. 
 
 Atina 208. 
 
 Atrani 171. 
 
 Atri 179. 194. 
 
 Atrio del Cavallo 117. 
 Atripalda 176. 
 
 Atzara 373. 
 
 Aufidus 184. 199. 
 Augusta 343. 
 
 Auletta 207. 
 
 Auricarre 212. 
 
 Ausculum Apulum 183. 
 Auximum 178. 
 
 Avella 176. 
 
 Avellino 176. 
 
 Avernus, Lacus 100. 
 Aversa 188. 
 
 Avezzano 196. 
 
 Avigliano 207. 
 
 Avola 304. 
 
 Bacoli 102. 
 
 Badolato 220. 
 
 Bagaria or Bagheria 270. 
 Bagnara 212. 
 
 Bagni di Nerone 101. 
 
 — di Paterno 194. 
 
 — dlschia 109. 
 
 Bagnoli 96. 
 
 Bagnolo 205. 
 
 Bahira, El 375. 
 
 Baja 101. 
 
 Baiae 101. 
 
 Baida 268. 
 
 Balensul 302. 
 
 Balvano 206. 
 
 Balzo di Trifoglietto 
 341. 
 
 Bantia 184. 
 
 Banzi, Abbadia de -1 184. 
 Baragiano 206. 
 
 Baranica 156. 
 
 Barbagia, la 372. 
 Barbaro, Monte 275. 
 Barbarossa, Castello di 
 160. 
 
 Barcellona 308. 
 
 Bardo, the 376. 
 
 Bari 201. 
 
 — , Mola di 202. 
 
 Barium 201. 
 
 Barletta 199. 
 
 S. Barnaba, Monte 281. 
 Baronisi 176. 
 
 Barra, La 115. 
 Barrafranca 298. 
 
 Basento, river 206. 217. 
 Basilicata, the 206. 
 
 S. Basilio 213. 
 
 — Pisticci 217. 
 
 Basiluzzo 320. 
 
 Batinus 179. 
 
 Battaglia 212. 
 
 Battipaglia 167. 
 
 Bauladu 369. 
 
 Bauli 303. 
 
 Bauli 102. 
 
 Bavuso 309. 
 
 Beffi 190. 
 
 Belbina 385. 
 
 Belice, river 284. 
 
 Belice Sinistro 285. 
 Bellamuro 206. 
 
 Bellizzi 167. 
 
 Belmonte 223. 
 
 Belpasso 329. 
 
 Belvedere 222. 303. 
 Belvedere, Monte 273. 
 
 S. Benedetto 179. 196. 
 Benevento 185. 
 
 Benizze 383. 
 
 Bernalda 207. 
 
 S. Biagio, river 290. 299 
 Biancavilla 329. 
 Bianconuovo 220. 
 
 Bicocca 298. 342. 
 
 Biferno, river 181. 
 
 Birgi, river 282. 
 Bisacquino 285. 
 
 Biscari 300. 
 
 Bisceglie 200. 
 
 Bisignano 209. 
 
 Bitetto 212. 
 
 Bitonto 201. 
 
 Bivio di Auletta 207. 
 Bivona 211. 
 
 Blue Grotto 161. 
 
 Bocca di Fiume 13. 
 Boccadifalco 268. 
 
 Boeo, Capo 282. 
 
 Boiano 192. 
 
 Bon, Cape 374. 
 Bonfornello 304. 
 Bonifato, Monte 273. 
 Bonorva 370. 
 
 Borgetto 273. 
 
 Borrone 282. 
 
 Bosa 370. 
 
 Bosco tre Case 123. 
 Botte, la 14. 
 
 Botte, Canale delle 12. 
 Bova 220. 
 
 Bovalino 220. 
 
 Bove, Valle del 341. 
 Bovianum 192. 
 
 Bovino 185. 
 
 Bradano, the 217. 
 Brancaccio 272. 
 Brancaleone 220. 
 Brentesion 203. 
 
 Brindisi 203. 
 
 Brolo 307. 
 
 Bronte 328. 
 
 Brucato 287. 
 
 Brucoli 343. 
 
 Bruncu Spina, Punta 373. 
 Brundisium 203. 
 
 Buccino 206. 
 
 Buffaloria di Cassano 218. 
 Buonalbergo 185. 
 Buonpietro 287. 
 
 Buraco, Monte 285. 
 Busambra 285. 
 
 Busambra, Kalata 285. 
 
 I Buscemi 303. 
 
 Busento, river 209. 
 
 Bussi 189. 
 
INDEX 
 
 391 
 
 Butera 300. 
 
 Buttigliara, river 350. 
 
 CaU*as 369. 
 
 Cabrera 384. 
 
 Caccamo 287. 
 
 Cacyparis 304. 
 
 Caesar, Villa of 102. 
 Cagliari 365. 
 
 — , Stagno di 365. 368. 
 Caianiello 6. 192. 
 
 Caieta 17. 
 
 Cairo, Monte 6. 
 
 Cala, La 253. 
 
 Calabria 203. 213. 
 
 Calacte 307. 
 
 Calatabiano 325. 327. 
 Calatafimi 274. 
 
 Calava, promontory 307. 
 Calciano 207. 
 
 Caldare 289. 295. 
 
 Gales 7. 
 
 Gallipolis 205. 
 
 S. Calogero, Monte 285. 
 287. 
 
 — , Lipari 318. 
 
 Calore, river 181. 185. 208. 
 Caltabelotta 286. 
 
 — , river 286. 
 
 Caltagirone 298. 
 Caltanissetta 295 
 Caltavuturo 287. 
 
 Calvi 7. 
 
 Calvo, Monte 183. 194. 
 Camaldoli near Naples 92. 
 
 — dell’ Avvocata 170. 
 
 — di Meta 157. 
 
 — della Torre 115. 
 Camaldolilli 92. 
 Camarana, river 301. 
 Camarina 301. 
 
 Camicus 288. 
 
 Cammarata 209. 288. 
 
 — , Pizzo di 288. 
 Campana 190. 218. 
 Campanella, Punta di 
 
 155. 
 
 Campania 7. 93. 
 Campedda, la 370. 
 Campestrino, Ponte di 207. 
 Campi 207. 
 
 Campi Geloi 300. 
 
 — Laestrigonii 342. 
 
 — Palentini 196. 
 
 — Veteres 206. 
 
 Campo Bianco 319. 
 
 — di Giove 188. 189. 
 
 — Periculo 191. 
 
 — Tenese 208. 
 Campobasso 181. 
 Campobello 283. 
 
 — di Licata 300. 
 Campofiorito 285. 
 
 Campofranco 288. 
 Campomarino 181. 
 Campomela 371. 
 Canalotti 279. 
 
 Cancello 10. 
 
 Candela 183. 
 
 Candia 385. 
 
 Canicatti 295. 
 
 Canicattini 303. 
 
 Caniga 371. 
 
 Cannae 199. 
 
 Cannita 271. 
 
 Cannole 205. 
 
 Canosa 199. 
 
 Cantone, fiumara 308. 
 Canusium 199. 
 
 Capaccio Nuovo 168. 
 
 — Vecchio 168. 
 
 Capace 270. 
 
 Capistrello 197. 
 Capitanata, the 181. 174. 
 Capiti 169. 
 
 Capo Bianco 286. 386. 
 
 — d'Acqua 193. 
 
 — Castella 219. 
 
 — Soprano 300. 
 
 Capodi monte near Na- 
 ples 44. 
 
 — near Sorrento 155. 
 Caposele, Villa 16. 
 Cappadocia 196. 
 Cappelliere 285. 
 
 Capraja 19. 
 
 Capreae 158. 
 
 Caprera 361. 
 
 Capri 157. 
 
 Capua 7. 
 
 Caralis 365. 
 
 Caramanico 188. 
 Carbonara, Capo 365. 
 Carcaci, Ponte 329. 
 Cardellieri, Monte 285. 
 Cardillo, Monte 330. 
 Cariati 218. 
 
 Carini 273. 
 
 Carlentini 342. 
 
 Caronia, Bosco di 306. 
 Carotto 153. 
 
 Carovigno 203. 
 Carpanzano 210. 
 Carpineto 2. 
 
 Carseoli 196. 
 
 Carsoli 196. 
 
 Cartellemi 329. 
 
 Carthage 376. 
 
 Carthagena , Cape 374. 
 376. 
 
 Casa del Bosco 339. 
 
 — Etnea 339. 
 
 Casabona 111. 
 Casalbordino 180. 
 Casalnuovo 10. 208. 
 Casamicciola 109. 
 
 Cascano 19. 
 
 Cascia 193. 
 
 Caserta 9. 
 
 Casilinum 7. 
 
 Casino Chiriaco 210. 
 Gasinum 4. 
 
 Casmenae 303. 
 
 Casoria 188. 
 
 Casotta di Napoli 194. 
 Cassano 213. 218. 
 
 Cassaro 288,. 303. 
 Cassibile, river 304. 
 Cassino 4. 
 
 Castagna, Capo 319. 
 Castanea 317. 
 
 Castel di Sangro 192. 
 
 — di Tusa 306. 
 Casteldaccia 286. 
 Castelfidardo 178. 
 
 Castel Fiorentino 183. 
 Castella, Capo 219. 
 Castellamare di Stabia 
 
 150. 
 
 — del Golfo 274. 
 Castellaneta 213. 
 
 Castello del Monte 200. 
 
 — in Parco 163. 
 Castelluccio 208. 
 Casteltermini 288. 
 Castelvetere 220. 
 Castelvetrano 275. 
 Castiglione 327. 
 
 Castro 205. 
 Castrogiovanni 296. 
 Castronuovo 288. 
 Castrovillari 209. 218. 
 Castrum Minervae 205. 
 
 — Novum 179. 
 
 S. Cataldo 295. 
 
 — , Castello di 205. 
 Catalfano, Monte 224. 
 271. 
 
 Gatana 331. 
 
 Catania 330. 
 
 — , Piano di 342. 
 Catanzaro 219. 
 
 Catena del Marghine 369. 
 Catenanuova 297. 
 
 S. Caterina near Reggio 
 
 212 . 
 
 — (Sicily) 295. 
 
 — near Squillace 220. 
 Caudine Forks 10. 187. 
 Caudium 10. 
 
 Gaulonia 220. 
 
 Cava, la 164. 
 
 Ceccano 3. 
 
 Cedrinus 373. 
 
 Cefalii 305. 
 
 Celano 195. 
 
 Cento Camerelle 103. 
 Centorbi 297. 
 
 Centuripe 297. 
 
392 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Cephaloedium 305. 
 Cephalonia 386. 
 Cephissus, the 387. 
 Ceprano 3. 
 
 Cerboli 20. 
 
 Cerda 288. 
 
 Cerignola 199. 
 
 Cerigo 385. 
 
 Cerrilla, Bosco della 337. 
 Certosa, the (near Mileto) 
 211 . 
 
 Cervaro 6. 185. 
 
 — , river 185. 215. 
 Cervico 209. 
 
 Cesarano 156. 169. 
 
 S. Cesario di Lecce 205. 
 Cetara 170. 
 
 Cetraro 222. 
 
 Charybdis 212. 316. 
 Chalcidicus , Mom 315. 
 Chiaiolella 108. 
 Cliiaramonte 300. 
 
 Chiazza 298. 
 
 Chienti, river 178. 
 Chiesazza, la 286. 
 
 Chieti 188. 
 
 Chieuti 181. 
 
 Cliilivani 370. 
 
 Chirica, Monte 319. 
 Chiunzo, Monte 169. 
 
 — , Torre di 169. 
 
 Cliiusa 285. 
 
 Choerades 213. 
 
 Chrysas 297. 
 
 Ciampino 1. 
 
 Ciani, brook 357. 
 
 Cicala 176. 
 
 Cicci, Monte 317. 
 
 Cicero's Tomb 16. 
 Ciclopi, Scogli dei 326. 
 Cimiti, Capo delle 219. 
 Cinquemiglia, Piano di 
 192. 
 
 Cintaria, la 280. 
 
 Ciocca 371. 
 
 Circeii 13. 
 
 Circeo, Monte 13. 
 
 Giro 218. 
 
 Cisterna 11. 
 
 Citta Santangelo 180. 
 Citta Vecchia 360. 
 Cittaducale 194. 
 
 Civita d'Antino 197. 
 
 — Ducale 194. 
 
 Lavinia 1. 
 
 — Reale 193. 
 
 — Vecchia 19. 
 Civitanova 178. 
 
 Civitella Roveto 197. 
 ClaniusL 0. 
 
 S. Clemente 163. 
 
 — di Casauria 188. 
 Cocuzzo, Monte 210. 223. 
 
 Codola 176. 
 
 Cofano 281. 
 
 Collepardo, Grotta di 3. 
 Colles Leucogcei 99. 
 Collesano 305. 
 
 Colonne, Capo delle 219. 
 Colonnetta 279. 
 
 Comino 360. 
 
 Comiso 301. 
 
 Comitini 289. 
 
 Conca 175. 
 
 — , Punta di 174. 175. 
 
 — , Gorge of 155. 
 
 Conca d'Oro, la 252. 
 Concazze, Serra delle 341. 
 Conero, Mte. 177. 
 Confini, Torre de' 15. 
 
 S. Cono 298. 
 
 Consentia 209. 
 
 Contessa 285. 
 
 Conti delle Fontanelle 156 
 — di Geremenna 157. 174. 
 Contursi 206. 
 
 Copiae 218. 
 
 Coppola, Monte 151. 
 Corace, river 210. 
 
 Coraci 210. 
 
 Corato 200. 
 
 Corcyra 381. 
 
 Corfu 380. 
 
 Corfinium 189. 
 
 Cori 11. 
 
 Corigliano Calabro 218. 
 Corigliano ne<ar Lecce 
 205. 
 
 Corinth 386. 
 
 Corleone 285. 
 
 Corno, Monte 191. 
 
 Cornus 369. 
 
 Coroglio, Capo 91. 
 
 Corpo di Cava 164. 
 Correboi, Col di 373. 
 Correse, Passo di 193. 
 Corvo, Monte 281. 
 
 Cosa 218. 
 
 Coscile, river 218. 
 Cosenza 209. 
 
 Cossyra 374. 
 
 S. Costanzo. Mte. 155. 
 Cotrone 218. 
 
 Crancotta, Fiumara 308. 
 Crapolla 155. 
 
 Crathis 218. 
 
 Crati, river 209. 218. 
 Crete 385. 
 
 Crimissus 274. 
 
 Crimiti, Monte 350. 
 
 S. Croce 301. 
 
 — , Capo 343. 
 
 Crocella, la 161. 
 
 Crocelle di Agrifoglio, 
 le 210. 
 
 Cropani 219. 
 
 Croton 218. 
 
 Crucoli 218. 
 
 Cuba, la 266. 
 
 Cuccio, Monte 224. * 
 Cumae 105. 
 
 Cunano, Monte 329. 
 Cupra Marittima 179. 
 Cutro 219. 
 
 Cutto, Monte 329. 
 
 Cyane, Fountain 357. 
 Cyclades, the 385. 
 
 Cyme 105. 
 
 Cythera 385. 
 
 Damecuta 161. 
 
 Damusi 330. 
 
 Daunus 184. 
 
 S. Deca, Mte 383. 
 Decima, Fiumara 325. 
 Decimomannu 368. 
 
 Delia, river 283. 
 
 S. Demetrio 190. 
 
 Deserto 156. 
 
 Diamante 222. 
 
 Diano 208. 
 
 — , the 208. 
 
 Dicaearchia 96. 
 
 Didyme 319. 
 
 Dinnamari, Mt. 315. 
 Durillo, river 301. 
 Dittaino, river 297. 
 Divieto 309. 
 
 Dog Grotto 95. 
 
 S. Domenico 181. 
 
 — Soriano 211. 
 
 S. Donato 205. 
 Doria-Cassano 218. 
 Drago, river 290. 
 Dragonara, Grotta 103. 
 Dr ep an on 279. 
 
 Due Fratelli 170. 
 Dugenta 187. 
 
 Eboli 159. 167. 
 
 Egesta 274. 
 
 Egnatia 203. 
 
 Eircta 269. 
 
 Eknomos 299. 
 
 Elba 19. 
 
 Eleutherus 271. 
 
 S. Elia, Monte 208. 211. 
 — , Capo 365. 368. 
 
 St. Elias, Mt. (Aegina) 
 385. 
 
 Elmas 368. 
 
 S. Elpidio 178. 
 
 Enguium 287. 
 
 Enna 296. 
 
 Entella 285. 
 
 Epitafia, Torre dell' 15. 
 EpitalTio, Punta dell' 101. 
 Epomeo, Monte 110. 
 Epomeus 108* 
 
INDEX. 
 
 393 
 
 Epopens 108. 
 
 Erbe Bianche 330. 
 Erbesms 295. 
 
 Ericusa 320. 
 
 Eryx 280. 
 
 Etna, see iEtna. 
 
 Etnea 328. 
 
 S. Eufemia 210. 
 
 — , Golfo di.210. 223. 
 Euonymus 320. 
 
 Eurotas, the 385. 
 
 Tabrateria nova 3. 
 
 — vetns 3. 
 
 Fagnano 190. 
 
 Falconara 300. 
 
 — , river 303. 
 
 Falconaria 282. 
 
 Falcone, Mte. 281. 
 Falconera 385. 
 Falconiera, Monte 272. 
 Falernus , Ager 19. 
 Faraglioni, 1 159.162.326. 
 Farina, Cape 374. 
 
 Faro 316. 
 
 Fasano 203. 
 
 Fata Donnavilla, Gi’otto 
 of 308. 
 
 Favara 299. 
 
 — , la 272. 
 
 Favarotta 298. 
 
 Favignana 281. 
 
 Favorita, la, near Portici 
 114. 
 
 — , near Palermo 270. 
 
 S. Felice 10. 13. 
 
 S. Ferdinando 321. 
 Ferentino 2. 
 
 Ferentinum 2. 
 
 Ferentum 184. 
 
 Ferla 303. 
 
 Fermo 178. 
 
 Ferrandina 207. 
 
 Ferru, Monte 369. 
 Fibrenus, river 197. 
 Ficarazelli 270. 286. 
 Ficarazzi 270. 286. 
 Ficuzza 285. 
 
 Figlino 169. 
 
 Filicuri 319. 
 
 S. Filippo d'Argiro 297. 
 Filosofo, Torre del 341. 
 Finale 306. 
 
 Finisterra , promontory 
 205. 
 
 Firmum Picenum 178. 
 Fiumarone, river 193. 
 Fiume Caldo 274. 
 
 — Freddo 223. 273. 325. 
 
 — Grande 287. 305. 
 
 — Salso 287. 295. 299. 
 
 — Torto 287. 288. 304. 
 Fiumicino 19. 
 
 S. Flavia 270. 286. 
 
 S. Flaviano 179. 
 
 Floridia 303. 346. 
 Flumendosa, i*iver 373. 
 Foggia 181. 
 
 Foi, Monte 206. 
 
 Fondi 15. 
 
 — , Lake of 15. 
 
 Fonni 373. 
 
 Fons Bandusiae 184. 
 Fontana 111. 198. 
 
 — Congiada 372. 
 
 — Grande 184. 
 
 — Vecchia 325. 
 Fontecchio 190. 
 
 Fontes Leucogaei 99. 
 Fordungianus 369. 
 Forenza 184. 
 
 Forio 110. 
 
 Forli 192. 
 
 Formia 16. 
 
 Formiae 16. 
 
 Formiamm 16. 
 Fornacelle 157. 174. 
 Forno, II 103. 
 
 Foro Appio 12. 
 
 Fortore, river 181. 
 Forum Appii 12. 
 
 — Popilii 208. 
 
 — Trajani 369. 
 
 — Vulcani 99. 
 
 Forza 321. 
 
 Fossacesia 180. 
 
 Fossa Nuova 12. 
 Francavilla 180. 210. 
 
 S. Francesco di Paola, 
 monast. 155. 
 
 S. Franco, Monte 191. 
 Fi’ancolisi 19. 
 
 S. Fratello 307. 
 
 — , Fiumara 307. 
 Fi*atta-Grumo 188. 
 Fregellae 3. 
 
 Frento 181. 
 
 Frosinone 3. 
 
 Fnimento, Monte 338. 341. 
 Frusino 3. 
 
 Fucino, Lago di 195. 
 Fundi 15. 
 
 Fuoi’igrotta 87. 95. 
 FurculaeCaudinae 10.187. 
 Furiano, Fiumai’a di 307. 
 Furore 174. 
 
 Fusaro, Foce del 106. 
 
 — , Lago del 106. 
 Fuscaldo 222. 
 
 Gaeta 17. 
 
 — , Mola di 16. 
 
 Gaggera, river 274. 
 Gagliano 297. 
 
 Galaesvs 215. 
 
 Galati 321. 
 
 Galatina 205. 
 
 Galli, I 155. 
 
 Gallico ~12. 
 
 Gallipoli 205. 
 
 Gallo, Capo 224. 384. 
 Galugnano 205. 
 
 Gangi 287. 
 
 Gargano, Monte 183. 
 Garigliano, river 3. 18. 
 Garofalo, the 316. 
 Gaimna 383. 
 
 Gaulos 360. 
 
 S. Gavino 368. 
 
 Gavoi 373. 
 
 Gela 300. 
 
 Gela, river 300. 
 Gennargentu, Mt. 373. 
 
 S. Gennaro, monastery 
 99. 
 
 Gerace 220. 
 
 Gerania, the 385. 387. 
 Gerhini 298. 
 
 S. Germano 4. 
 
 — , Stufe di 95. 
 
 Gesso 309. 
 
 S. Giacomo 218. 
 
 Giambra 303. 
 
 Giampilieri 321. 
 Giannutri 19. 
 
 Giara, la 372. 
 
 Giardinetto 185. 
 
 Giardini 321. 
 
 Giarre 326. 
 
 Giarretta, river 342. 
 Giave 370. 
 
 Gibilmanna 305. 
 
 Giganti, Gi*otta, de 1 271. 
 Giglio 19. 
 
 Gioia Tauro 211. 
 
 — del Colle 213. 
 
 Gioiosa 220. 307. 
 
 S. Giorgio 176. 216. 371. 
 S. Giovanni Battista 282. 
 
 — in Carico 3. 
 
 — de Sinis 369. 
 
 — a Teduccio 112. 115. 
 Giovinazzo 201. 
 
 Girgenti 289. 
 
 — , Molo di 289. 
 
 Giuliana 285. 
 
 S. Giuliano, Monte 280. 
 Giulianova 179. 
 Giurdignano 205. 
 
 S. Giuseppe 164. 
 
 Gizio, river 189. 
 
 Gnathia 203. 
 
 Gobbo, Rio 373. 
 
 Goletta 374. 
 
 Gorgo di Co one 276. 
 Gorgona 19. 
 
 Govino 383. < 
 
 Gozzo 360. 
 
 Gragnano 151, 175. 
 
394 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Grammichele 298. 
 
 Gran Sasso cTItalia 191. 
 Granitola, Punta di 283. 
 Grassano 207. 
 
 Gratteri 305. 
 
 Gravina 207. 338. 
 
 S. Gregorio 220. 
 
 Griffone, Monte 224. 270. 
 Grigio, Monte 338. 
 
 Grotta d'Averno 101. 
 
 — Azzurra 161. 
 
 — Bianca 162. 
 
 — del Bove 338. 
 
 — del Cane 95. 
 
 — della Maga 13. 
 
 — della Pace 105. 
 
 — delle Stalattite 162. 
 
 — della Sibilla 282. 
 
 — Verde 162. 
 Grottammare 179. 
 
 Grotte, Le 295. 
 
 Grottole 207. 
 
 Grumentum 208. 
 
 Grumo 212. 
 
 Guardia 222. 
 
 — , Monte di 318. 
 
 Guardia S. Framondi 181. 
 Guasco, Monte 178. 
 Gurnalunga , river 298. 
 342. 
 
 Gurrita 328. 
 
 S. Gusmano, river 343. 
 
 Kadnanum 329. 
 
 Hadria 179. 194. 
 
 Halaesa 306. 
 
 Halycus 286. 
 
 Hamm am Gorbos 380. 
 Hamm am Lif 379. 
 Helorus 303. 
 
 Hemichara 287. 
 Hephaestiades 317. 
 Heraclea 217. 
 
 Heraclea Minoa 286. 
 Heracleia 112. 
 Herculaneum 112. 
 Herdonia 183. 
 
 Hicesia 320. 
 
 Hiera 281. 319. 
 
 Himera 304. 
 
 Him, era Meridionalis 287. 
 295. 299. 
 
 — Septentrional is2&7 .305. 
 Hipparis 301. 
 
 Hipponium 211. 
 
 Histonium 180. 
 
 Hybla Heraea 301. 
 
 Ilybla Minor 329. 
 
 Hyccara 273. 
 
 Hydra 385. 
 
 Hydruntum 205. 
 
 Hymettus 385. 
 
 Hypsas 284. 
 
 Iglesias 368. 
 
 Imachara 287. 
 
 Imele, river 196. 
 
 Imera 295. 
 
 Inarime 108. 
 
 Inice, Monte 275. 
 Insulae Diomedeae 181. 
 Interamna 179. 
 Interocrea 194. 
 Interpromium 189. 
 
 Ipso 383. 
 
 Iri, the 385. 
 
 Ischia 108. 
 
 Ischitella 183. 
 
 Iscla 108. 
 
 Isclero, the 187. 
 
 Isernia 192. 
 
 Isili 372. 
 
 Isola Capo-Rizzuto 219. 
 
 — del Liri 198. 
 
 — Ferdinandea 285. 
 
 — Longa 282. 
 
 — Salina 319. 
 
 Isoletta 3. 
 
 Ispica, Vald’ 302. 
 
 Ithaca 386. 
 
 Itri 15. 
 
 Jamur 374. 
 
 Jem, El 380. 
 
 Kalamaki 387. 
 
 Kamart 379. 
 
 Kanone 382. 
 
 Karthada 379. 
 
 Kasr-Sad 271. 
 Kasr-Yanni 296. 
 
 Kayruan 380. 
 
 Keff 380. 
 
 Kiriaki, the 383. 
 
 Korliun 285. 
 
 Kressida 382. 
 
 Kuluri 385. 
 
 Laccie, Monte 281. 
 
 Lacco 110. 
 
 Lacinian promontory 219. 
 Laconi 372. 
 
 Laconian Gulf, the 385. 
 Lacus Amyclanus 15. 
 
 — Avernus 100. 
 
 — Cutiliae 194. 
 
 — Fucinus 195. 
 
 — Fundanus 15. 
 
 — Lucrinus 100. 
 
 — Niger 208. 
 
 — Palicorum 298. 
 Lagonegro 208. 
 
 Lamato, river 210. 
 Lanciano 180. 
 
 Landro, Fiumara 308. 
 Lanuvium 1. 
 
 Lao, river 208. 
 
 Laos 208. 
 
 Larino 181. 
 
 Larinum 181. 
 
 Lascari 305. 
 
 Latignano, Pozzo di 194. 
 Lattarico 209. 
 
 Lauria 208. 
 
 Laurion , Promont. 385. 
 Lautulae 14. 
 
 Lavello 184. 
 
 S. Lazaro, Fort 175. 
 Lazzaro 220. 
 
 Lecce 204. 
 
 Leghorn 19. 
 
 Lene 173. 
 
 Lentini 342. 
 
 — , Biviere di 298. 342. 
 
 S. Leonardo 182. 
 Leonessa 193. 
 
 Leonforte 297. 
 
 Leontinoi 342. 
 
 Lepanto 386. 
 
 Lepre, Monte 329. 
 Lercara 288. 
 
 Lesina, Lago di 181. 
 Lesta 194. 
 
 Lete Vivo, brook 179. 
 Letojanni 321. 
 
 Lettere 151. 
 
 Leuca, promontory 205. 
 Leuca 205. 
 
 Leucadia 386. 
 
 Levante, Porto di 319. 
 Levanzo 281. 
 
 Liberatore, Monte 165. 
 Licata 299. 
 
 Licatia 338. 
 
 Licodia, S. Maria di 329. 
 Licosa, Punta della 222. 
 Lilibeo, Capo 282. 
 Lilybaeum 282. 
 
 Linaro, Capo 19. 
 Linguaglossa 327. 
 
 S. Lionardo, river 286. 
 342. 
 
 Lipari 317. 
 
 Lipari Islands 317. 
 
 Liris, river 3. 18. 197. 
 Lisca Bianca 320. 
 
 Locri Epizephyrii 220. 
 
 S. Lorenzo 13. 
 
 — , Certosa 208. 
 
 S. Lorenzo Maggiore 187. 
 Loreto 178. 
 
 Lucania 206. 
 
 Luce 217. 
 
 Lucera 183. 
 
 Luceria 183. 
 
 S. Lucia, Fiumara 308. 
 
 S. Lucido 223. 
 
 Luco 196. 
 
 Lucrinus, Lacus 100. 
 Lucus Angitiae 196. 
 
 Lupia 204. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 395 
 
 Lupone, Monte 1. 
 Lysimelia 357. 
 
 Macara 286. 
 
 Maccaluba 294. 
 
 Macchia 192. 
 
 Machanath 253. 
 
 Macomer 369. 
 
 Macopsisa 369. 
 Maddalena 361. 
 Maddaloni 10. 188. 
 Madonian Mountains 228. 
 305. 
 
 Madonna dell 1 Autu 273. 
 
 — di Camarana 301. 
 
 — Nera 308. 
 
 — della Rocca 325. 
 
 — di Saccargia 371. 
 
 — di Trapani 280. 
 Madredonna 303. 
 
 Maenza 12. 
 
 Maga, Grotta della 13. 
 Maglie 205. 
 
 Magnisi 343. 
 
 Maida 210. 
 
 Maina, tlie 385. 
 
 Maiori 170. 
 
 Majella, Mt. 180. 
 Malaspina, Monte 319. 
 Mai Consiglio, Seoglio 
 del 280. 
 
 Malea, Cape 385. 
 
 Maletta 328. 
 
 Maleventum 185. 
 
 Malta 358. 
 
 Malvagna 327. 
 
 Mamojada 373. 
 
 Mandas 372. 
 
 Manduria 216. 
 Manfredonia 182. 
 Mangano 326. 
 
 Maniacium 328. 
 Manicalunga 278. 
 
 Mannu, river 372. 
 Manopello 188. 
 
 Manuba, the 376. 
 Marabella, Pizzo di 273. 
 Marano 179. 
 
 Marcello, Torre del 343. 
 Marcianise 188. 
 
 S. Marco 307. 
 
 — Argentano 209. 
 
 S. Marco, Cape 369. 
 Marecoccola, Telegrafo 
 
 di 157. 
 
 Mare Dolce 272. 
 
 — Grande 213. 
 
 — Morto 103. 
 
 — Piccolo 213. 
 
 — Pontis 369. 
 
 Marescia 212. 
 
 S. Margarita 108. 
 
 S. Margherita 285. 
 
 S. Maria, near Massa Lu- 
 brense 155. 
 
 — di Capua 8. 
 
 — a Castello 157. 
 
 — di Leuca 205. 
 
 — di Licodia 329. 
 
 — di Luco 196. 
 
 — Maggiore 8. 163. 
 
 — a Monte Vergine 286. 
 
 — della Neve 156. 
 
 — a Puzzano 151. 
 
 — della Scala 316. 
 
 — del Soccorso 160. 
 
 — della Valle 316. 
 
 — della Vitt.oria 196. 
 Marianopoli 288. 
 
 Marina del Cantone 155. 
 Marina di Cazzano 153. 
 
 — di Sejano 152. 
 
 Marino 1. 
 
 Maritimo 281. 
 
 Marno, river 206. 
 
 Marro, river 211. 
 Marrubiu 369. 
 Marrubium 196. 
 
 Marsala 282. 
 
 Marsico 208. 
 
 S. Martino 267. 
 
 Mascali 326. 
 
 Mascalucia 338. 
 
 Massa Lubrense 155. 
 
 — di Somma 120. 
 Massafra 213. 
 
 Massico, Monte 19. 
 Massolivieri, promont. 
 
 344. 
 
 Matapan, Cape 385. 
 Matrinus 180. 
 
 S. Maura 386. 
 
 Mazarus 283. 
 
 Mazzara 283. 
 
 Mazzarino 271. 
 
 Meana 373. 
 
 Megara Hyblciea 343. 
 Megarean Bay 343. 
 Megaris 35. 385. 
 
 Mehdia 380. 
 
 Melfi 183. 
 
 — , Pizzuto di 184. 
 Meligunis 317. 
 
 Melite 359. 
 
 Melito 220. 
 
 Mellili 343. 
 
 Menessale, river 327. 
 Menfrici 284. 
 
 Mercante , il Passo del 
 220 . 
 
 Mercogliano 176. 
 
 Mersa 379. 
 
 Mesa 13. 
 
 Mesima, river 223. 
 Messana 311. 
 
 Messenia 384. 
 
 Messina 310. 
 
 — , the Strait of 223. 316. 
 Meta 152. 
 
 Metapontum 216. 
 Metaurum 211. 
 
 Metaurus 211. 
 Mezzocampo 330. 
 
 S. Michele , near Calta- 
 girone 298. 
 
 — , near Manfredonia 182. 
 
 — near Melfi 184. 
 Mignano 6. 
 
 Milazzo 309. 
 
 Mileto 211. 
 
 Milis 369. 
 
 Miliscola 104. 
 
 Militello 298. 
 
 Milo, Torre di 218. 
 Mimnermum 268. 
 
 Minae 298. 
 
 Minardo, Monte 329. 
 Mineo 298. 
 
 Miniscola 104. 
 
 Minoa 286. 
 
 Minopolis 203. 
 
 Minori 170. 
 
 Minturnae 18. 
 Mirto-Crosia 218. 
 
 Miseno, Capo 104. 
 Misenum 103. 
 Missolonghi 386. 
 Misterbianco 330. 342. 
 Mistretta 306. 
 
 Mitro, Monte 273. 
 Mitromania, Grotta di 160. 
 — , Val di 160. 
 
 Modica 301. 
 
 Modione, river 276. 
 Modugno 212. 
 
 Mojano 187. 
 
 Mojo 327. 
 
 Mola 325. 
 
 Mola di Bari 202. 
 
 — di Gaeta 16. 
 Molentargiu , Stagno di 
 
 365. 
 
 Moles Puteolanae 97. 
 Molfetta 200. 
 
 Molina 190. 
 
 Molina, Punta 109. 
 Molini, Valle de 1 172. 
 Moliterno 208. 
 
 Monalus 306. 
 
 Monasterace 220. 
 Monastir 372. 380. 
 Mondello 270. 
 Mondragone 18. 
 Monembasia 385. 
 
 Monfina, Rocca 7. 18. 
 Monforte 309. 
 
 Mongibello 336. 
 
 Mongio, Pizzo di 308. 
 Mongrassano 209. 
 
396 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Monopoli 203. 
 
 Monreale (Sicily) 266. 
 
 — (Sardinia) 368. 
 
 Mons Alburnus 206. 
 
 — Chalcidicus 315. 
 
 — Chronios 285. 
 
 — Gaurus 152. 
 
 — Tifata 9. 
 Montagnuola, tlie 339. 
 Montaguto 185. 
 Montalbano 217. 
 
 Montalto 209. 
 
 Montauro 220. 
 
 Monte Allegro 286. 
 
 — Alto 220. 
 
 — Casino 5. 
 
 — Fortino 1. 
 
 — Giordano 217. 
 
 — S. Giovanni 198. 
 
 — S. Giuliano 280. 
 
 — Gross e 303. 
 
 — Nero 338. 
 
 — Nuovo 100. 
 
 — Rosso 338. 
 
 — Santangelo 182. 
 Montecardillo 330. 
 Monteleone 211. 
 Montemaggiore 288. 
 Montepeloso 207. 
 Montereale 193. 
 Montesanto 178. 
 Montesarchio 10. 
 Montesardo 205. 
 Montesilvano 180. 
 
 Montes Lactarii 152. 
 Monticelli 15. 
 
 Monti Rossi 339. 
 
 Montoro 176. 
 
 Morano 208. 
 
 Mores 370. 
 
 Morino 197. 
 
 Moropano 111. 
 
 Moscia, Monte 219. 
 
 Motta 181. 
 
 Motta S. Anastasia 298. 
 330. 
 
 Mohj a 283. 
 
 Muglia 297. 
 
 Munychia 385. 
 
 Muranum 208. 
 
 Murata, la 206.' 
 
 Murgie di Minervino 200. 
 Muro 205. 
 
 Musei 368. 
 
 Mutignano 179. 
 
 Mylae 309. 
 
 Nao, Capo 219. 
 
 Naples 20. 
 
 Accademia Pontaniana 
 50. 
 
 Albergo dei Poveri 45. 
 S. Angelo a Nilo 51. 
 
 Naples: 
 
 S. Anna de’ Lombardi 
 47. 
 
 SS. Annunziata 52. 
 Aqua Julia 45. 
 Aquarium 84. 
 
 Archives 52. 
 Arcivescovado 55. 
 Arsenal 39. 
 
 Bankers 24. 
 
 S. Barbara 39. 
 
 Baths 26. 
 
 Beer 23. 
 
 Boarding Houses 22. 
 Boats 25. 
 
 Booksellers 26. 
 
 Botanic Garden 45. 
 Cafes 23. 
 
 Camaldoli 92. 
 
 Campi Santi 44. 53. 
 Capodimonte 43. 44. 
 Cappella delTesoro55. 
 S. Carlo, Theatre 37. 
 Carriages 24. 
 
 Castello Capuano 53. 
 
 — del Carmine 40. 
 
 — Nuovo 38. 
 
 — deir Ovo 35. 
 
 — Sant’-Elmo 89. 
 Catacombs 43. 
 
 S. Caterina a Form ell a 
 53. 
 
 Cathedral 55. 
 Cemeteries 53. 
 Chemists 26. 
 
 Chiaja, the 83. 
 
 S. Chiara 48. 
 Chiatamone, Strada35. 
 Chiesa del Sannazaro 
 85. 
 
 Cigars 24. 
 
 Commandant’s resid. 
 36. 
 
 Commissionnaires 25. 
 Confectioners 23. 
 Conservatory of Music 
 
 59. 
 
 Consulates 24. 
 
 Corso Garibaldi 41. 53. 
 Corso Vittorio Ema- 
 nuele 87. 
 
 S. Croce al Mercato 41. 
 Custom House 39. 
 Dogana 39. 
 
 Duomo 55. 
 
 S. Domenico 49. 
 English Church 29. 
 Exchange 38. 
 Festivals, national and 
 religious 29. 
 
 S. Filippo Neri 57. 
 Fontana Medina 38. 
 Foresteria 36. 
 
 Naples : 
 
 S. Francesco di Paola 
 36. 
 
 S. Gennaro dei Poveri 
 43. 
 
 Gesu Nuovo 48. 
 
 S. Giacomo degli Spag- 
 nuoli 38. 
 
 S. Giovanni a Carbo- 
 nara 54. 
 
 — Maggiore 51. 
 
 Grotta di Posilipo 87. 
 Grotto of Sejanus 90. 
 Harbours 39. 
 
 History 31. 
 
 Hospitals 26. 
 
 Hotels 21. 
 
 Hotels Garnis 22. 
 
 S. Januarius, Chap. 55. 
 Immacolatella 39. 
 Incoronata 46. 
 
 Largo della Carita 42. 
 
 — del Castello 37. 
 
 — S. Domenico 49. 
 
 — S. Ferdinando 37. 
 — S. Gennaro 55. 
 
 — Gerolomini 57. 
 
 — del Mercatello 42. 
 
 — del Mercato 40. 
 
 — del Palazzo Reale 
 35. 
 
 — delle Pigne 45. 
 
 — della Vittoria 34. 
 
 — S. Trinita 47. 
 Lazzaretto 91. 
 Lazzaroni, the 40. 
 Liceo Vitt. Eman. 42. 
 Lighthouse 39. 
 
 S. Lorenzo 58. 
 
 S. Lucia 35. 
 
 S. Maria del Carmine 
 40. 
 
 — Costantinopolitana 
 
 91. 
 
 — del Faro 90. 
 
 — de’ Miracoli 45. 
 
 — la Nuova 46. 
 
 — del Parto 85. 
 
 — di Piedigrotta 86. 
 
 — della Pieta de’Sangri 
 51. 
 
 S. Martino 88. 
 
 Martyrs’ Monument 41. 
 Mergellina, the 85. 
 Miradois 45. 
 
 Molo grande 39. 
 
 Money Changers 24. 
 Monte Oliveto 47. 
 
 — di Pieta 52. 
 Municipio 37. 
 
 Museo Nazionale 59. 
 
 Aeschines, Statue of 
 
 66 . 
 
INDEX. 
 
 397 
 
 Naples : 
 
 Museo Nazionale : 
 Alexander, Battle of 
 69. xLi. 
 
 Amazon etc. of the 
 Pergam. School 66. 
 xxxi. 
 
 Animals (Bronze) 70. 
 Apollo playing the 
 Lyre 71. xxxiii. 
 Balbi, Statues of the 
 67. 
 
 Bronzes, Ancient 70. 
 — , Small 82. 
 
 Coins 78. 
 
 Crystal, Ancient 73. 
 Cumsean Collection 
 
 73. 
 
 Dancing Faun 71. 
 Dante, Bust of 76. 
 Doryphorus of Poly 
 cletus 66. xxix. 
 Drawings 76. 
 Drunken Faun 71. 
 Egyptian Antiquities 
 64. 
 
 Emperors, Busts and 
 Statues of 68. 
 Engravings 76. 
 Farnese Bull 64. 
 xxxi. 
 
 — Flora 69. 
 
 — Hera (Juno) 65. 
 
 — ^Hercules 64. 
 
 Food Collection 74. 
 Frescoes, Ancient, 
 from Pompeii, etc. 
 61. xxxviii. 
 
 — , Copies of 74. 
 Gold and Silver 
 Ornaments 77. 
 Harmodius and Aris- 
 togiton 65. xxx. 
 Heraclea, Tables of 
 
 64. 
 
 Homer 66. 
 Inscriptions 63. 
 Library 77. 
 
 Marble Sculptures 65. 
 Mercury Reposing 71. 
 Mosaics 62. 
 
 Museo Santangelo 80. 
 Narcissus 71. 
 
 Nero, Statue of 72. 
 Orestes and Electra 
 
 65. xxxiii. 
 Ornamental Paint- 
 ings 63. 
 
 Orpheus relief 70. 
 xxx. 
 
 Papyri , Library of 
 
 74. 
 
 Naples : 
 
 Museo Nazionale: 
 Pictures, Modern 74. 
 79. 
 
 Pompeii, Model of 
 83. 
 
 Portico degli Impe- 
 radori 68. 
 
 Portrait Statues and 
 Busts 67. 
 
 Precious Relics 77. 
 Psyche of Capua 66. 
 xxxiii. 
 
 Raccolta Pornogra- 
 fica 78. 
 
 Reliefs 69. 
 Renaissance Works 
 
 72. 
 
 Salpion, Vase of 69. 
 xxxiii. 
 
 Terracottas, Ancient 
 
 73. 
 
 Vases, Collection of 
 81. 
 
 Venus Callipygus 66. 
 — of Capua 66. 
 
 —f Statues of 68. 
 Weapons, Collection 
 of 71. 
 
 Wounded Gaul 66. 
 xxxi. 
 
 Newspapers 29. 
 
 Nisida 91. 
 
 Observatory 45. 
 Omnibuses 25. 
 
 S. Paolo Maggiore 55. 
 Palazzo Angri 42. 
 
 — Arcivescovile 55. 
 
 — di Capodimonte 44. 
 — Casacalenda 49. 
 
 — Caviati 49. 
 
 — Corigliano 49. 
 
 — di Donn 1 Anna 86. 
 
 — Fondi 46. 
 
 — Gravina 47. 
 
 — Maddaloni 42. 
 
 — de 1 Ministeri 37. 
 
 — Miranda 41. 
 
 — Reale 36. 
 
 — Sansevero 49. 
 
 — Santangelo 52. 
 Pensions 21. 
 Photographs 27. 
 Physicians 26. 
 
 Piazza Cavour 45. 
 
 — Dante 42. 
 
 — Garibaldi 41. 
 
 — S. Gennaro 55. 
 
 — de 1 Martiri 41. 
 
 — del Mercato 40. 
 
 — di Montoliveto 47. 
 del Municipio 37, 
 
 jNaples : 
 
 Piazza del Plebiscito 
 
 35. 
 
 — Salvator Rosa 87. 
 
 S. Pietro a Majella 58. 
 — Martire 40. 
 Pizzofalcone 35. 
 
 Ponte di Chiaja 41. 
 
 — della Maddalena 115. 
 
 — della Sanita 43. 
 Ponti Rossi 45. 
 
 Porta Alba 42. 
 
 — Capuana 44. 53. 
 
 — del Carmine 40. 
 Porto Grande 39. 
 
 — Militare 39. 
 
 — Piccolo 39. 
 
 Posilipo 89. 91. 
 
 — , Grotta di 87. 
 
 Post Office 28. 47. 
 Prefettura 36. 
 
 Railways 28. 
 Reclusorio 45. 
 Restaurants 22. 
 
 S. Restituta 57. 
 
 Riviera di Chiaja 83. 
 Sanita 39. 
 
 Scuola di Virgilio 91. 
 S. Sebastiano 39. 
 
 S. Severino e Sosio 52. 
 S. Severo, Cappella di 
 51. 
 
 Shops 26. 
 
 Specula, la 45. 
 
 Statue of Charles III. 
 
 36. 
 
 — of Colletta 84. 
 
 — of Dante 42. 
 
 — of Ferdinand 1.36. 
 
 — of Italia 37. 
 
 7 — of Mercadante 46. 
 
 — of Poerio 42. 
 
 — of Thalberg 84. 
 
 — of Vico 84. 
 Steamboats 28. 
 
 Strada nuova di Capo- 
 dimonte 43. 
 
 Strada nuova di Posi- 
 lipo 90. 
 
 Strada S. Biagio de’ 
 Librai 52. 
 
 — Carbonara 54. 
 
 — S. Carlo 37. 
 
 — S. Caterina 41. 
 
 — di Chiaja 41. 
 
 — Chiatamone 35. 
 
 — Foria 45. 
 
 — del Gigante 35. 
 
 — S. Giuseppe 46. 
 
 — dell 1 Infrascata, see 
 Str. Salvator Rosa. 
 
 — Medina 38. 45. 
 
 — del Molo 38. 
 
398 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Naples : 
 
 Strada Montoliveto 47. 
 50. 
 
 — Nuova 40. 
 
 di Capodimonte 
 
 43. 
 
 di Posilipo 90. 
 
 — di Piedigrotta 85.86. 
 
 — del Piliero 39. 
 
 — di Porto 40. 
 
 — Salvatore 51. 
 
 — Salv. Rosa 87. 91. 
 
 — de 1 Tribunali 55. 
 
 — S. Trinita Maggiore 
 48. 
 
 Street Traffic 28. 
 Telegraph Office 28. 47. 
 Theatres 28. 37. 42. 
 Toledo 42. 
 
 Tramways 26. 
 
 Trattorie 22. 
 
 Tribunali 53. 
 
 S. Trinita Maggiore 48. 
 University 51. 
 
 Via del Duomo 57. 
 
 — di Roma 42. 
 Vicaria, la 53. 
 
 Villa Nazionale, the 84. 
 — Angri 86. 
 
 — Avelli 44. 
 
 — Belletieri 92. 
 
 — Belvedere 92. 
 
 — delle Cannonate 90. 
 — Forquet 44. 
 
 — Gallo 44. 
 
 — Gerace 90. 
 
 — de Melis 90. 
 
 — Meuricoffre 44. 
 
 — Minutoli 90. 
 
 — Patrizi 92. 
 
 — Regina Isabella 44. 
 — Ricciardi 92. 
 
 — Ruffo 44. 
 
 — Rocca Matilda 90. 
 
 — Rocca Romana 90. 
 — Tricase 92. 
 
 Virgil's Tomb 86. 
 
 S. Vitale 87. 
 
 Vomero 92. 
 
 Wine 23. 
 
 Zoological Siation 84. 
 Nardo 205. 
 
 Naro 299. 
 
 Naso 307. 
 
 Nasone, Punta del 117. 
 Naupactos 386. 
 
 Naxos 325. 
 
 Nazaret 93. 
 
 Nebrodian Mts., the 296. 
 327. 
 
 Negro, river 207. 
 Neptunian Mts., the 228. 
 
 Nera, 193. 
 
 Nerano 155. 
 
 Neretum 205. 
 
 Nerone, Bagni di 101. 
 
 — , Career! di 103. 
 
 Nesis 91. 
 
 Netum 277. 
 
 New Corinth 386. 
 Nicastro 210. 
 
 S. Nicola, Castle 170. 
 
 — , Monte 111. 
 
 S. Niccolo d' Arena 341. 
 Nicolosi 339. 
 
 Nicosia 288. 
 
 Nicotera 223. 
 
 Ninfa, river 11. 
 
 Nisi, Fiume di 321. 
 Nisida 91. 
 
 Nizza di Sicilia 321. 
 Nocera de' Pagani 163. 
 — in Calahria 223. 
 Noicattaro 202. 
 
 Nola 175. 
 
 Nora 368. 
 
 Norcia 193. 
 
 Norma 11. 
 
 Noto 303. 
 
 Novara 308. 
 
 Nuceria Alfaterna 163. 
 Nuoro 373. 
 
 Nurallao 372. 
 
 Nursia 193. 
 
 Ocre 194. 
 
 Oenussae , Insulae 384. 
 Ofanto 184. 
 
 — , river 199. 
 
 Ogliastro 285. 
 
 Ogygia 359. 
 
 Olbia 370. 
 
 Olivieri 308. 
 
 — , Fiumara 308. 
 Ombrasco, Vallone 110. 
 Ongnina, r 327. 
 
 Ordona 183. 
 
 Oreto, river 270. 272. 285. 
 Oria 204. 
 
 Oristano 369. 
 
 Orlando, Capo d' 152. 307. 
 — , Torre d' 17. 
 
 Orosei 373. 
 
 Orri 368. 
 
 Orru, Monte 373. 
 
 Orso, Capo d' 170. 
 
 — , Monte 273. 
 
 S. Orsola 371. 
 
 Orta Nova 199. 
 
 Orton 180. 
 
 Ortona 180. 
 
 Ortygia 348. 
 
 Osilo 371. 
 
 Osimo 178. 
 
 Ostia 19. 
 
 Ostuni 203. 
 
 Otranto 205. 
 
 — , Terra d 1 203. 213. 
 Ottajano 176. 
 
 Ovindoli 194. 
 
 Ozieri 370. 
 
 Pabillonis 368. 
 
 Pacchino 304. 
 
 Pace 316. 
 
 Paceco 282. 
 
 Pacentro 189. 
 
 Padula 208. 
 
 Paestum 167. 
 
 Pagani 163. 
 
 Paganica 190. 
 Palagianello 213. 
 Palagiano 213. 
 
 Palagonia 298. 
 
 Palazzo 184. 
 
 Palazzolo 302. 
 Paleocastrizza 383. 
 Palermo 250. 
 
 Albergo de' Poveri 266. 
 S. Antonio 258. 
 Bagaria or Bagheria 
 270. 
 
 Baida 268. 
 
 Biblioteca Comunale 
 
 258. 
 
 Botan. Garden 265. 
 Cala, la 259. 
 
 Campo di S. Spirito 272. 
 Cappella Palatina 254. 
 Capuchin Monastery 
 266. 
 
 Casa Professa 258. 
 Castellaccio, 11 267. 
 Castellammare, Fort 
 
 259. 
 
 Catacombs 260. 
 
 S. Cataldo 257. 
 Cathedral 255. 
 
 S. Cita 259. 
 
 Collegio Nuovo 256. 
 Conservatorio 259. 
 Cottone, Statue of 264. 
 Cuba 266. 
 
 Cubola 266- 
 S. Domenico 259. 
 Favara, la 272. 
 Favorita, la 270. 
 Finance Office 259. 
 Flora, la 265. 
 
 Florio, Vine., Statue 
 of 260. 
 
 Foro Italico 264. 
 FoundlingHospital 259. 
 S. Francesco d'Assisi 
 258. 
 
 Gancia, la 259. 
 Giardino d 1 Aeelima- 
 zione 266. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 399 
 
 Palermo : 
 
 Giardino Garibaldi 259. 
 — Inglese 264. 
 
 S. Giovanni degli Ere- 
 miti 255. 
 
 — de 1 Leprosi 270. 
 
 S. Giuseppe dei Teatini 
 
 257. 
 
 Grazie, le 272. 
 
 Grotta de 1 Giganti 271. 
 
 — di S. Rosalia 269. 
 Harbour 253. 259. 
 Jesuits 1 Church 258. 
 Istituto Agrario 270. 
 Lyceum 256. 
 
 Magione, la 258. 
 
 Mare Dolce 272. 
 
 S. Maria dell 1 Ammi- 
 raglio 257. 
 
 S. Maria della Catena 
 259. 
 
 — di Gesii 271. 
 
 Marina 264. 
 
 S. Martino 267. 
 Martorana 257. 
 Monreale 266. 
 
 Monte Pellegrino 269. 
 Museum 260. 
 
 National Library 256. 
 Observatory 254. 
 Palazzo Aiutamicristo 
 
 258. 
 
 — Arcivescovile 255. 
 
 — Baucina 264. 
 
 — Belmonte 256. 
 
 — Cattolica 259. 
 
 — Chiaramonte 259. 
 
 — del Due d’Aumale 
 265. 
 
 — Fitalia Settimo 258 
 — Forcella 264. 
 
 — Geraci 256. 
 
 — del Municipio 257. 
 — Patella 259. 
 
 — Pietratagliata 264. 
 
 — Raffadale 264. 
 
 — Reale 253. 
 
 — Riso 256. 
 
 — Sclafani 255. 
 
 — Serradifalco 257. 
 
 — dei Tribunali 259. 
 
 — Villafranca 257. 
 Philip IV., Monument 
 
 of, 255. 
 
 Piazza Bologni 257. 
 
 — del Duomo 255. 
 
 — dell 1 Indipendenza 
 
 . 255. 
 
 — Marina 259. 
 
 — Pretoria 257. 
 
 — Ruggiero Settimo 
 264. 
 
 — S. Spirito 259. 
 
 Palermo : 
 
 Piazza della Vittoria 
 253. 
 
 Ponte dell 1 Ammiraglio 
 270. 
 
 Porrazzi 272. 
 
 Porta S. Antonino 258. 
 — di Castro 255. 
 
 — Colonna 260. 
 
 — Felice 259. 
 
 — Garibaldi 258. 
 
 — S. Giorgio 269. 
 
 — Macqueda 264. 
 
 — Nuova 255. 265. 
 Post Office 251. 257. 
 Quattro Arce 268. 
 Quattro Canti 257. 
 Rocca, la 266. 
 
 S. Rosalia 255. 
 
 Settimo, Ruggiero, Sta- 
 tue of 264. 
 
 Solunto 271. 
 
 Spedale Grande 255. 
 Teatro Massimo 264. 
 Teutonic Lodge 258. 
 Tramways 251. 
 University 258. 
 
 Via Macqueda 257. 
 
 — Vittorio Emanuele 
 256. 258. 
 
 Villa Belmonte 269. 
 
 — Butera 268. 
 
 — Florio 268. 
 
 — Giulia 265. 
 
 — Palagonia 270. 
 
 — Serradifalco 268. 
 
 — Sofia 270. 
 
 — Tasca 266. 
 
 — Valguarnera 270. 
 Zisa 268. 
 
 Palica 298. 
 
 Palizi, Lago di 298. 
 Palizzi 220. 
 
 Palma, near Nola 176. 
 
 Sicily 299. 
 
 Palmajola 19. 
 
 Palmaria 14. 
 
 Palmarola 14. 
 
 Palmi 211. 
 
 Dn 1 a I Q 
 
 Palo del Colle 212. 
 Palycus 223. 
 
 S. Panagia, Capo 343. 
 Panaria 320. 
 
 Pandateria 14. 
 
 Panni 185. 
 
 Panormos 253. 
 
 Pantacyas 343. 
 Pantaleone, Mt. 383. 
 
 S. Pantaleo, Isola 283. 
 Pantalica 342. 
 
 Pantani, lakes 316. 
 Pantano 343, 
 
 Pantano dell 1 Acerra 10. 
 Pantelleria 374. 
 
 Panza 111. 
 
 Paola 222. 
 
 S. Paolo, nearSyracuse303. 
 — , Island, near Sora 197. 
 — , near Taranto 214. 
 Papigno 193. 
 
 Paradiso, Torrente di 317. 
 Parata, la 175. 
 
 Parco 285. 
 
 Parnes, the 385. 
 Partanna 285. 
 
 Partinico 273. 
 
 Passero, Promontorio 304. 
 Passo di Correse 193. 
 Passofonduto 289. 
 
 Passo Martino 342. 
 Pastina 173. 175. 
 
 Paterno 169. 
 
 — , Baths of 194. 
 
 Paterno 329. 
 
 Patras 386. 
 
 Patti 307. 
 
 Path 205. 
 
 Paulilatino 369. 
 Pausilypon 91. 
 
 Paxo 386. 
 
 Pedara Via Grande 339. 
 341. 
 
 Pedaso 179. 
 
 S. Pelino 189. 
 
 Pellaro 220. 
 
 Pellegrino, Monte 269. 
 Pelleka 383. 
 
 Penna, Punta di 180. 215 
 Pennata, Punta di 103. 
 Penne 180. 
 
 Penteli 385. 
 
 Pentelicon, the 385. 
 Pentima 189. 
 PerdaCuadda, Riodi 373. 
 Perdaliana 373. 
 
 Perdas Alvas, Rio de las 
 371. 
 
 Perdeddu, Monte 373. 
 Pergusa, Lago 298. 
 Pertosa 207. 
 
 Pescara 180. 
 
 — , Fiume 180. 188. 
 Pescolanciano 192. 
 Petraea 287. 
 
 Petralia di Sopra 287. 
 
 di Sotto 287. 
 
 Pettineo, Fiume di 306. 
 Pettorano 191. 
 
 Pezzo, Punta del 212. 
 Phaleron 385. 
 
 Phlegraean Plain, the 94. 
 Phoenicusa 319. 
 
 Phorbantia 281. 
 
 Piana dei Greci 285. 
 Piano de 1 Cappuccini 280, 
 
400 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Piano del Lago 339. 
 
 — di Perillo 175. 
 Pianosa 19. 
 
 Pianura 93. 
 
 Piazza Armerina 298. 
 Picciano 174. 
 
 Picerno 206. 
 
 Piedilugo, Lake of 193. 
 Piedimonte 325. 327. 
 Pietrabbondante 192. 
 Pietra Galla 207. 
 Pietraperzia 298. 
 
 Pietra Santa 164. 
 
 S. Pietro, Basilica 155. 
 — , near Lecce 204. 
 
 — , island (near Taranto) 
 214. 
 
 — , — (Sard.) 368. 
 
 — in Fine 6. 
 
 — Monforte 309. 
 
 — Pula 368. 
 
 — di Torres 370. 
 Pignataro 7. 
 
 Pigne, Valle delle 156. 
 Pilae 97. 
 
 Pimonte, 152. 
 
 Pineta, Monte 303. 
 
 Pinna 180. 
 
 Piomba, river 180. 
 Piombino, Punta di 19. 
 Piperno 12. 
 
 Piraeus 385. 387. 
 
 Piraino 307. 
 
 Piscina Mirabilis 103. 
 Pisciarelli, I 99. 
 
 Pisticci 207. 
 
 Pithecusa 108. 
 
 Pizzo 2KX 
 Pizzone, II 215. 
 
 Pizzuta, La 303. 
 Placeolum 302. 
 
 S. Placido 321. 
 
 Plaia, the 368. 
 
 Platani, river 286. 288. 
 Plemmyrion 344. 
 
 Ploaghe 371. 
 
 Poetelia 218. 
 
 Pofi 3. 
 
 Pogerola 173. 
 
 Poggio di S. Angelo 299. 
 
 — Imperiale 181. 
 
 — Mirteto 193. 
 
 PoiJcilon 387. 
 
 Policastro 222. 
 
 Policoro 217. 
 
 Polignano a Marc 202. 
 Polizzi 287. 
 
 Polla 208. 
 
 Pollina 306. 
 
 Pollina, Fiurae di 306. 
 Pollino, Monte 208. 218. 
 222. 
 
 Pompeii 123. 
 
 Pompeii : 
 
 Amphitheatre 149 
 Bake-house 136. 
 Barber’s Shop 141. 
 Basilica 131. 
 
 Bidental 147. 
 
 Cardo 127. 
 
 Chalcidicum 132. 
 
 Curia 133. 
 Custom-house 136. 
 Decumanus Major and 
 Minor 127. 141. 
 Forum Civile 132. 
 
 — Triangulare 147. 
 Fullonica 141. 142. 
 Gates 126. 
 
 Gladiators’ Barrackl47. 
 Graffiti 127. 
 
 Hotels 124. 
 
 House of the Wounded 
 Adonis 140. 
 
 — of the Anchor 141. 
 
 — of Anteros 142. 
 
 — of Apollo 140. 
 
 — of Ariadne 142. 
 
 — with the Balcony 
 146. 
 
 — of the Boar Hunt 
 146. 
 
 — of Ceecilius Jucun- 
 dus 143. 
 
 — dei Capitelli Figu- 
 rati 142. 
 
 — of Castor and Pollux 
 139. 
 
 — of the Centaur 139. 
 
 — of the Chase 142. 
 
 — del Citarista 148. 
 
 — of Cornelius Rufus 
 145. 
 
 — dei Diadumeni 144. 
 
 — of Epidius Rufus 
 
 144. 
 
 — of Epidius Sabinus 
 
 145. 
 
 — of the Faun 141. 
 
 — of the Large Foun- 
 tain 141. 
 
 — of the Small Foun- 
 tain 141. 
 
 — of the Grand-Duke 
 of Tuscany 142. 
 
 — of Holconius 145. 
 
 — of theLabyrinth 140. 
 
 — of Marcus Lucretius 
 144. 
 
 — of Meleager 140. 
 
 — of the Mosaic Co- 
 lumns 138. 
 
 — of Pansa 136. 
 
 — della Pareta Nera 
 142. 
 
 — of Pomponius 141. 
 
 Pompeii : 
 
 — of Sallust 136. 
 
 — of the 5 Scheletri 
 140. 
 
 — of Siricus 144.'’ 146. 
 
 — of the Surgeon 136. 
 
 — of the Tragic Poet 
 
 135. 
 
 — of Vesonius Primus 
 142. 
 
 — of the Vestals 137. 
 Insulse 127. 
 
 Lesche 134. 
 
 Library 136. 
 
 Lupanare 146. 
 
 Museum 130.* 
 
 Pagus Augustus Felix 
 126. 137. 
 
 Pantheon 134. 
 Pavement 127. 
 
 Porta di Capoa 126. 
 
 — di Ercolano 137. 
 
 — Marina 130. 
 
 — di Nocera 126. 
 
 — di Nola 143. 
 
 — del Sarno 126. 
 
 — di Stabia 145. 
 
 — del Vesuvio 126. 
 Regions 127. 
 
 Scuola Archeologica 
 
 136. 
 
 Shops 128. 
 
 Strada dell’ Abbon- 
 danza 144. 146. 
 
 — della Fortuna 141. 
 
 — della Fullonica 141. 
 
 — del Lupanare 146. 
 
 — di Mercurio 139. 
 
 — di Nola 143. 
 
 — dei Sepolcri 137. 
 
 — Stabiana 142. 144. 
 
 — dei Teatri 146. 
 
 — delle Terme 135. 
 Street of the Forum 134. 
 Street of Tombs 137. 
 Streets 126. 
 
 Tannery 145. 
 
 Tavern 137. 140. 
 Temple of iEsculapius 
 
 — of Augustus 134. 
 
 — of Fortuna 135. 
 
 — of Hercules (?) 147. 
 
 — of Isis 148. 
 
 — of Jupiter 133. 
 
 — of Mercury 133. 
 
 — of Venus 131. 
 Theatre, the Great 147, 
 — , the Small 148. 
 Thermae 135. 143. 
 
 — , Stabian 145. 
 
 Tomb of Calventius 
 Quintus 138. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 401 
 
 Pompeii : 
 
 Tomb of Cerinius 137. 
 
 — of the Garlands 138. 
 
 — of L. Libella 138. 
 
 — of Mamia 138. 
 
 — of Nsevoleia Tyclie 
 138 
 
 — of Scaurus 138. 
 
 — of Servilia 138. 
 
 — of Terentius 138. 
 
 — of Veius 137. 
 
 Town Wall 126. 137. 
 Tribunals 132. 
 Triclinium 139. 
 Triumphal Arch 134. 
 Via Marina 131. 
 
 Vico di Tesmo 144. 
 Vicolo del BalconePen- 
 
 sile 146. 
 
 — di Eumachia 146. 
 
 — di Mercurio 139. 
 Villa of Cicero 138. 
 Villa of Diomedes 139. 
 
 Pondikonissi 382. 
 
 Poni, Monte 368. 
 
 Ponte di Benevento 187. 
 
 — di Bovino 185. 
 
 — di Caligola 97. 
 
 — S. Cono 206. 207. 
 
 — della Disgrazia 325. 
 
 — Maggiore 13. 
 
 — di Silla 208. 
 
 — di Terria 193. 
 
 — Valentino 185. 
 Pontecagnano 166. 
 Pontelandolfo 181. 
 Pontesele 206. 
 
 Ponti della Valle 10. 187. 
 Pontiae 14. 
 
 Pontine Marshes 11. 
 Pontone 171. 174. 
 
 — , Castello 173. 
 
 Ponza 14. 
 
 Ponza Islands 14. 
 
 Popoli 189. 
 
 Porcari, river 343. 
 Portella, la 15. 
 
 Portella di Mare 271. 
 Portici 112. 
 
 Porto d\Anzio 19. 
 
 — Civitanova 178. 
 
 — Empedocle 289. 286. 
 
 — S. Giorgio 178. 
 
 — di Levante 319. 
 
 — Longone 19. 
 
 — Palo 304. 
 
 — di Ponente 319. 
 
 — Scuso 368. 
 
 — Torres 372. 
 
 — dTTlisse 304. 
 
 Portus Julius 100. 
 
 Portus Ulyssis 327. 
 Poseidonia 168. 
 
 Baedeker. Italy II 
 
 Posilipo 92. 
 
 Positano 174. 
 Postiglione 206. 
 
 Potamo 383. 
 
 Potentia 206. 
 
 Potenza 206* 
 
 — Picena 178. 
 
 — , river 178. 
 
 Pozzo di Gotto 308. 
 Pozzo Piano 153. 
 Pozzuoli 96. 
 
 Prajano 174. 
 
 Pratola 189. 
 
 Preazzano 157. 174. 
 Presenzano 6. 
 
 Presicce 206. 
 
 Priolo 343. 
 
 Priora 156. 
 
 Privernum 12. 
 
 Prochyta 107. 
 
 Procida 107. 
 
 — , Canale di 20. 
 
 — , Monte di 104. 
 Promontorium Herculis 
 220 . 
 
 — Iapygium 205. 
 
 — Lacinium 219. 
 
 — Laurion 385. 
 
 — Leucopetrae 220. 
 
 — Minervae 155. 
 
 — Pachynum 304. 
 
 — Pelorum 212. 316. 
 
 — Salentinum 205. 
 
 — Sunion 385. 
 
 Prossedi 12. 
 
 Pula 368. 
 
 Psyttaleia 385. 
 Puteolaneum 98. 
 
 Puteoli 96. 
 
 Puzzano 151. 
 
 Quadriga di Mezzo 272. 
 Quartu 367. 
 
 Quisisana 151. 
 
 Racalmuto 295. 
 Raddusa 297. 
 
 Ragusa 301. 
 
 Rahal Zabuth 285. 
 Rajano 190. 
 
 Rametta 309. 
 
 Randazzo 328. 
 
 Rapido, river 4. 
 
 Ras el-Belat 283. 
 
 Ras Sidi-boo-Said 376. 
 Ratto 170. 
 
 Ravello 173. 
 
 Reate 193. 
 
 Recanati 171. 
 Regalbuto 297. 
 
 Reggio 220. 
 
 Regi Lagni 10. 
 
 . 7th Edition. 
 
 Reginolo, river 170. 
 Regitano, river 306. 
 Rende S. Fili 209. 
 
 Resina 112. 
 
 Retiro 14. 
 
 Revigliano 150. 
 
 Rhegium. 221. 
 
 Riace 220. 
 
 Riardo 6. 
 
 Ribera 286. 
 
 Rieti 193. 
 
 Rionero 192. 
 
 Ripa Sottile, Lago di 193. 
 Ripalta 181. 
 
 Ripatransone 179. 
 
 Riposto 326. 
 
 Rivisondoli 192. 
 
 S. Rizzo, Colle di 309/ 
 Rizzuto, Capo 219. 
 Rocca, Monte 281. 
 
 Rocca d’Arce 198. 
 
 — Bernarda 219. 
 
 — di Cerro 196. 
 
 — Cinquemiglia 192. 
 
 — di Corno 194. 
 
 — d'Evandro 6. 
 
 — di Cusa 278. 
 
 — Gorga 12. 
 
 — Grande 289. 
 
 — Imperiale 217. 
 
 — di Mezzo 194. 
 Roccalumera 321. 
 Roccapalumba 288. 
 Roccarasa 192. 
 
 Rocca di Sarno 288. 
 Roccasecca 3. 
 
 Rocca Valloscura 191. 
 Roccella 220. 305. 
 Rocciola, Punta di 107. 
 Rogliano 210. 
 
 Romagnano 206. 
 
 Rosa, Mte. 318. 
 Rosamarina,Fiumara 307. 
 Rosarno 211. 
 
 Roseto 217. 
 
 Rosolini 303. 
 
 Rossano 218. 
 
 Rotonda 208. 
 
 Roveto, Monte di 288. 
 
 Val di 197. 
 
 Rovolo, Monte 329. 
 
 Rubi 201. 
 
 Rudiae 204. 
 
 Rugge 205. 
 
 Rus-Melkarth 286. 
 
 Ruvo 201, 
 
 Sabato, river 185. 
 
 Sacco, river 1. 
 
 Sabutus 223. 
 
 Saepinum 181. 
 
 Sagittario 190. 
 
 Sagras 220. 
 
 26 
 
402 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sala 208. 
 
 Salamis 385. 
 
 Salemi 275. 
 
 Salerno 164. 
 
 Salernum 164. 
 
 Salica, Fiumara 308. 
 Saline 220. 
 
 Salinella 330. 
 
 Salvatore, Monte (Cefalii) 
 305. 
 
 (Corfu) 383. 
 
 (Lipari Islands) 319. 
 
 S. Salvatore dei Greci 
 316. 
 
 Salviano, Monte 197. 
 Salvo, Monte 297. 
 Samassi 368. 
 
 Sambucca 285. 
 
 Sangro, river 180. 192. 
 Sangrus 180. 192. 
 
 Sanluri 368. 
 
 Santicelli,Contrada d.303. 
 Santoni, I 303. 
 
 Sapienza 384. 
 
 Saponara 208. 
 
 Sarcidano 372. 
 
 Sardinia 361. 
 
 Sarno 176. 
 
 — , river 150. 176. 
 Sassari 371. 
 
 Saticola 187. 
 
 Sauci, Monte 281. 
 
 Sava 216. 
 
 Savignano 185. 
 
 Savone, river 19. 
 
 Savuto, river 223. 
 
 Scafati 163. 
 
 Scala 169. 174. 
 
 Scala Greca 356. 
 
 — di Gioca 371. 
 Scalazza, la 326. 
 
 Scaletta 174. 321. 
 Scamander 274. 
 
 Scanno 190. 
 
 Scanzano 217. 
 Scaramanga 387. 
 Scaricatojo 174. 
 
 Scheria 381. 
 
 Schioppo, Lo 197. 
 
 Schiso 325. 
 
 Schoinos 387. - 
 Seiacca 284. 
 
 Sciara 288. 
 
 Scicli 301. 
 
 Scilla 212. 
 
 Sclafani 285. 287. 
 Scoglieti 301. 
 
 Scordia 298. 
 
 Scuola di Virgilio 91. 
 Scurcola 196. 
 
 Scutolo, Punta di 152. 
 Scylaceum 219. 
 
 Scylla 212. 
 
 S. Sebastiano 120. 
 
 Sebeto, river 112. 115. 
 Sebkha el-Ruan 379. 
 Secondigliano 44. 
 
 Segesta 274. 
 
 Segni 1. 
 
 Seiano, Marina di 152. 
 Sele, river 167. 
 
 Selina, Torrente 321. 
 Selinnnto 276. 
 
 Selinus 276. 
 Sella-Misilbesi 285. 
 Seminara 212. 
 
 Senariccia 191. 
 
 Senorbi 372. 
 
 Sepino 181. 
 
 Serapeum, the 97. 
 
 Serino 176. 
 
 — , Lago di 208. 
 Sermoneta 11. 
 Serradifalco 295. 
 Serramanna 368. 
 
 Sessa 18. 
 
 Setia 12. 
 
 Seui 373. 
 
 Seulo 373. 
 
 S. Severa 19. 
 
 S. Severino 176. 
 
 S. Severo 181. 
 
 Sevo, Pizzo di 179. 
 
 Sezza 12. 
 
 Sfax 380. 
 
 Sferracavallo, Bay of 270. 
 Sferro 297. 
 
 Sgurgola 2. 
 
 Shykeli, Island 375. 
 Sibilla, Montagna della 
 179. 
 
 Sibyl, Grotto of the 101. 
 106. 
 
 Sicignano 206. 
 
 Sidern© 220. 
 Sidi-boo-Said 374. 
 Sidi-Fethallah 380. 
 
 Signes 383. 
 
 Signia 1. 
 
 Signora, la 304. 
 Sila-Mountains 209. 
 Silarus 167. 
 
 Siliqua 368. 
 
 Silla, Ponte di 208. 
 
 Silvi 180. 
 
 Simeto, river 298. 342. 
 Simmeri, river 219. 
 Sindia 370. 
 
 Sinno, river 208. 217. 
 Sinuessa 18. 
 
 Sinus Terinaeus 210. 
 Siponto, Madonna di 182. 
 Sipontum 182. 
 
 Siracusa 344. 
 
 Sirens , Islands of the 
 155. 
 
 Sirino, Monte 208. 
 
 Siris 208. 217. 
 
 Soccavo 93. 
 
 Solan to 271. 
 
 Solaro, Monte 161. 
 Solfatara 99. 
 
 Solfizio, Serra del 339 
 341. 
 
 Solmona 189. 
 
 Soloeis 271. 
 
 Solofra 176. 
 
 Solopaca 81. 187. 
 
 Solunto 271. 
 
 Soluntum 271. 
 
 Somma, Monte 117. 123. 
 Sonnino 13. 
 
 Sora 197. 
 
 Sorgono 373. 
 
 Soriano 211. 
 
 Sorrentini 307. 
 
 Sorrento 153. 
 
 — , Capo di 154. 
 
 — , Piano di 152. 
 
 — , Tore di 156. 
 
 Sortino 303. 
 
 S. Sostene 220. 
 
 Sotir 288. 
 
 Sottile, Capo 174. 
 Soverato 220. 
 Spaccaforno 303. 
 
 Spada, Monte 373. 
 Spadafora 309. 
 
 Sparagio, Monte 275. 
 Sparanisi 7. 19. 
 
 Sparano 301. 
 
 Spartilla 383. 
 Spartivento, Capo 220- 
 222. 365. 
 
 Sperlinga 288. 
 
 Sperlonga 15. 
 
 Spezzse 385. 
 
 Spezzano 209. 218. 
 
 Spina 288. 
 
 — , Monte 96. 
 
 — , Serra della 329. 
 Spinazzola 184. 
 
 S. Spirito 201. 
 
 Squillace 219. 
 
 Squinzano 204. 
 
 Ssaghuan 380. 
 
 Stabiae 150. 
 
 Staglino 212. 
 
 Stagnicello 298. 
 
 Stagnone, Lo 282. 
 Stampaci, river 304. 
 Starza 185. 
 
 S. Stefano 14. 
 
 — del Bosco 211. 
 
 — di Camastra 306. 
 Sternatia 205. 
 
 Stilo 220. 
 
 Strato 92. 
 
 Stromboli 320. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 403 
 
 Strongoli 218. 
 
 Strongyle 320. 
 
 Stufe, le 318. 
 
 Suelli 372. 
 
 Suessa Aurunca 18. 
 
 Sulmo 189. 
 
 Suni 370. 
 
 Sunion , Promont. 385. 
 Surrentum 153. 
 
 Susa 380. 
 
 Sutera, 288. 
 
 — , Pizzo di 288. 
 
 Suvero, Capo 223. 
 
 Sybaris 218. 
 
 Symaethus 342. 
 
 Syracuse 344. 
 
 Acliradina 342. 
 Agathocles , house of 
 
 354. 
 
 Altar of Hiero 352. 
 Amphitheatre 351. 
 Anapo, river 357. 
 Aqueducts 350. 
 Aretliusa, Fountain 348. 
 Belvedere 353. 
 Buffalaro 353. 
 Buonfardeci,Giard.35l. 
 Catacombs 355. 
 Cathedral 348. 
 
 Citadel 348. 
 
 City Wall 350. 354. 
 Curia 350. 
 
 Cyane, Fountain 357. 
 Due Fratelli 356. 
 
 Ear of Dionysius 352. 
 Epipolse 350. 
 
 Euryalus 353. 
 
 S. Giovanni 355. 
 
 Grotta di Nettuno 356. 
 Harbour, Great 350. 
 
 — , Small 349. 354. 
 Labdalon 350. 354. 
 Latomiade 1 Cappuccini 
 
 355. 
 
 — Casale 355. 
 
 — del Filosofo 353. 
 
 — del Paradiso 352. 
 
 — Santa Venera 352. 
 Leon 354. 
 
 S. Lucia 354. 
 
 Market (Agora) 351. 
 Monte Crimiti 350. 
 354. 
 
 Museum 348. 
 
 Neapolis 350. 
 Nymphseum 352. 
 Olympieum 357. 
 Ortygia 348. 349. 
 Palazzo Montalto 349. 
 Pentapylon 350. 
 
 Pisma 357. 
 Plemmyrion 344. 
 Polichne 357. 
 
 Syracuse : 
 
 Prytaneum 350. 
 Santoro, Casa 349. 
 Scala Greca 356. 
 
 Street of Tombs 353. 
 Telegraph, the 354. 
 Temenites 350. 
 
 Temple of Diana 349. 
 
 — of Minerva 348. 
 
 — of Zeus Olympius 
 357. 
 
 Terracati 351. 
 
 Theatre, Greek 352. 
 Thymbris 350. 354. 
 Timoleonteum 350. 
 Tomb of Archimedes 
 356. 
 
 — of Timoleon 356. 
 Town-wall 350. 
 
 Tyche 350. 356. 
 
 Villa Landolina 355. 
 
 Syrte, the Little 380. 
 
 Taburno, Monte 187. 
 Tscnaron, Cape 385. 
 Tagliacozzo 196. 
 
 Tamaro, river 181. 185. 
 Tanager 207. 
 
 Taormina 322. 
 
 Taranto 213. 
 
 Taras 214. 
 
 Tarentum 214. 
 
 Tarracina 13. 
 
 Tarsia 209. 
 
 Tauromenium 322. 
 Taviano 206. 
 
 Tavola Paladina, la 216. 
 Tavolara 361. 
 
 Tavoliere di Puglia 182. 
 185. 199. 
 
 Taygetos, the 385. 
 
 Teano 6. 
 
 Teanurn Sidicinum 7. 
 Teate Marrucinorum 188. 
 Tegianum 208. 
 
 Telegrafo , the (Capri) 
 160. 
 
 — , near Messina 283. 309. 
 — , near Sorrento 156. 
 Telese 187. 
 
 — , Lago di 187. 
 
 Telesia 187. 
 
 Tellaro, river 303. 
 
 S. Teodoro, Grotta 307. 
 Tenna, river 178. 
 
 Teramo 179. 
 
 S. Teresa 321. 
 
 Terras 342. 
 
 Terlizzi 201. 
 
 Termini (Sicily) 286. 
 
 — near Massa Lubrense 
 155. 
 
 — di Castro 308. 
 
 Termoli 180. 
 
 Terra di Lavoro 7. 15. 
 
 — d’Otranto 203. 213. 
 Terracina 13. 
 
 Terranova (Sard.) 370. 
 
 — (S. Italy) 218. 
 
 — (Sicily) 300. 
 
 Thapsus 343. 
 
 Tharrus 369. 
 
 Thermae Himerenses 287. 
 
 — Neronianae 101. 
 
 — Segestanae 275. 
 
 — Selinuntinae 284. 
 Thermissa 319. 
 
 Therusia 319. 
 
 Thurii 218. 
 
 Thymbris 350. 354. 
 Tiberio, Villa di 160. 
 Tifernus 181. 
 
 Tigliana, La 156. 
 
 Timpa Rossa 338. 
 Tindaro, Capo 308. 
 Tiriolo 210. 
 
 Tirso, the 369. 
 
 Tissa 327. 
 
 Tissi 371. 
 
 Tolerus 1. 
 
 Tonara 69. 373. 
 
 Tordino, river 179. 
 Torralba 370. 
 
 Torre dell’ Annunziata 
 115. 
 
 — Cerchiara 218. 
 
 — di Chiunzo 169. 
 
 — de Confini 15. 
 
 — dell’ Epitafia 15. 
 
 — del Filosofo 341. 
 
 — di Gaveta 106. 
 
 — di Gerace 220. 
 
 — del Greco 114. 
 
 — di Grifo 338. 
 
 — de’ Legni 280. 
 
 — del Marcello 343. 
 
 — Masdea 210. 
 
 — di Melissa 218. 
 
 — di Milo 218. 
 
 — d’Orlando 17. 
 
 — di Paola 13. 
 
 — de’ Passeri 188. 
 
 — tre Ponti 11. 
 Torrecuso 187. 
 
 Torrelifo 338. 
 
 Torremare 216. 
 
 Tortoreto 179. 
 
 Totta 191. 
 
 Tovere 173. 
 
 Trabia 286. 
 
 Traetto 18. 
 
 Tragara, Punta 159. 
 Traina, Foresta di 329. 
 Tramazza 369. 
 
 Tramonti, Val 169. 
 
 Trani 200. 
 
 26 * 
 
404 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Trapani 279. 
 
 Trebisacce 218. 
 
 Tre Castagni 326. 
 Trecchina, river 208. 
 
 Tre Fontane, Fondaco 
 298. 
 
 Tre Fratelli 152. 
 
 Trejenta 372. 
 
 Tremestieri 321. 
 
 Tremiti Islands, the 181. 
 Trepuzzi 204. 
 
 Trerus 1. 
 
 Tres Tabernae 11. 
 Tricarico 207. 
 
 Tricase 205. 
 
 Trigno, river 180. 
 
 Trinita della Cava 164. 
 Trinitapoli 199. 
 
 Trinius 180. 
 
 Triocala 286. 
 
 Trionto, river 218. 
 
 Tripi, Pizzo di 308. 
 Tritoli, Stufe di 101. 
 Trogilus 343. 
 
 Troia 185. 
 
 Troina 297. 
 
 Tronto, river 179. 
 
 Tropea 210. 223. 
 
 Trotilon 343. 
 
 Truentus 179. 
 
 Tulo 373. 
 
 Tumolo, Capo 170. 
 Tunis 375. 
 
 Tuoro Grande 160. 
 Turano, river 193. 
 
 Turris Lybissonis 372. 
 Tusa 306. 
 
 Tusciano, river 167. 
 Tuturano 204. 
 
 Tyndaris 308. 
 
 Ufente, river 13. 
 
 Uffugo 209. 
 
 Uggento 206. 
 
 Umberto - Margherita, 
 Monte 338. 
 
 Umbra, Bosco dell’ 183. 
 Uras 368. 
 
 Uria 204. 
 
 Usini 371. 
 
 Ustica 272. 
 
 Uta 368. 
 
 Utica 380. 
 
 Uxentum 206.] 
 
 S. Valentino 188. 
 Valetta, la 359. 
 Valguarnera 273. 297. 
 Valle 187. 
 
 Vallelunga 288. 295. 
 Valmontone 1. 
 
 Valsavoia 342. 
 
 Vandra, river 192. 
 Vandria 192. 
 
 Vasto 180. 
 
 Vaticano, Capo 210. 223. 
 Velino, river 193. 
 
 — , Monte 196. 
 
 Velletri 1. 
 
 Venafro 192. 
 
 Ven afrum* 192. 
 
 Venere, Monte 322. 
 Venosa 184. 
 
 Ventotene 14. 
 
 Venusia 184. 
 
 Verbicaro 222. 
 
 Vergine, Monte 176. 319. 
 Veroli 3. 
 
 Verulae 3. 
 
 Veijvece, Lo 155. 
 
 Vesevus, Mons 117. 
 Vespasia 193. 
 
 Vesuvius, Mount 116. 
 Vettica Maggiore 174. 
 
 — Minore 173. 175. 
 
 — , Val 175. 
 
 Via Appia 10. 11. 
 
 — Campana 99. 
 
 — Cumana 99. 
 
 — Helora 304. 
 
 — Herculea 100. 
 
 — Latina 1. 4. 
 
 — Puteolana 99. 
 
 — Valeria 196. 
 
 Vibinum 185. 
 
 J Vibo Valentia 211. 
 
 Vico 152. 
 
 — Alvano 157. 
 
 Vico Equense 152. 
 Vicovaro 197. 
 
 Vicus Aequensis 152. 
 Viesti 183. 
 
 Vietri 164. 
 
 Vietri di Potenza 206. 
 Viggiano 208. 
 
 Villa S. Giovanni 212. 
 Villanova Tulo 373. 
 Villarosa 295. 
 
 Villasor 368. 
 
 Villazzano 155. 
 
 Vinius 4. 
 
 Vita 275. 
 
 S. Vito, Capo 213. 
 
 S. Vito d’Otranto 203. 
 
 — Chietino 180. 
 
 S. Vittore 6. 
 
 Vittoria 301. 
 
 S. Vittorino 191. 
 Vitulano 187. 
 
 Vi vara 107. 
 
 Volcanello 319. 
 
 Volcano 319. 
 
 Volturno, river 7. 187. 192. 
 Vomano, river 179. 
 Vomanus 179. 
 
 Vomero 92. 
 
 Vostitza 386. 
 
 Vulcania 319. 
 
 Vulture, Monte 184. 
 
 Xiphonia 343. 
 
 Xirbi 295. 
 
 Xitta, La 282. 
 
 Zambrone, Capo 223. 
 Zancle 311. 
 
 Zannone 14. 
 
 Zante 386. 
 
 Zapulla, Fiumara 307. 
 Zembarotta 374. 
 Zembra 374. 
 
 Zisa, La 268. 
 
 Zollino 205. 
 
List 
 
 of the most important Artists mentioned in the Handbook , with a 
 note of the schools to which they belong. 
 
 Abbreviations: A. = architect, P. = painter, S. == sculptor ; ca. = 
 circa, about; B. = Bolognese, Flor. = Florentine, Ferr. = Ferrarese, 
 Mess. = Messinese, Neap. = Neapolitan, Rom. = Roman, etc. 
 
 The Arabic numerals enclosed within brackets refer to the art-notices 
 throughout the Handbook, the Roman figures to the Introduction. 
 
 A'etion , Greek P., 2nd cent. A. D. — 
 (xxxvi). 
 
 Ain6molo , Vincenzio ( Vine, Romano), 
 Palerm. P., d. 1540. — (249). 
 
 Alibrando, Girol., Mess. P., 1470-1524. 
 
 Allegri , Ant., see Correggio. 
 
 Amerighi , see Caravaggio , Mich. 
 
 Angelico da Fiesole, Fra Giov., Flor. 
 P., 1387-1455. 
 
 Antenor, Greek bronze-founder, ca. 
 510-480 B. C. — (xxx). 
 
 Apelles, Greek P., 356-308 B. C. — 
 (xxxvi). 
 
 Apollodorus , Greek P., end of 5th 
 cent. B. C. — (xxxv). 
 
 Apollonius of Tralles, Greek S., 
 brother of Tauriscus. — (xxxiii). 
 
 Aquila, Silvestro delV, S., 15th cent. 
 
 — , Pompeo, d\ P., second half of 
 16th cent. 
 
 Aristides, Greek P., 370-330 B. C. — 
 (xxxvi). 
 
 Arnolfo del (di) Cambio, see Cambio. 
 
 Arpino, Cavaliere cT (Gius. Cesari ), 
 Rom. P., ca. 1560-1640. 
 
 Auria, Bom. d\ Neap. S., pupil of 
 Giov. da Nola, d. 1585. 
 
 Baboccio , Ant., Neap. S., A., 1351- ca. 
 1415. 
 
 Barbieri, see Guercino. 
 
 Barisano, bronze -founder, end of 
 12th cent. 
 
 Bartolommeo della Porta, Fra, Flor. 
 P., 1475-1517. 
 
 Bassano , Jacopo (da Ponte), Yen. P., 
 1510-92. 
 
 — , Leandro (da Ponte), son of Ja- 
 copo, Ven. P., 1558-1623. 
 
 Bazzi, Giov. Ant., see Sodoma. 
 
 Bellini, Gentile, brother of Giovanni, 
 Yen. P., 1421-1507. 
 
 — , Giovanni, Ven. P., 1426-1516. 
 
 Belotti , Bern., see Canaletto. 
 
 Beltraffio, see Boltraffio. 
 
 Bernardi, Giov., da Castelbolognese , 
 Bol. goldsmith, d. 1554. 
 
 Bernini, Giov. Lorenzo , Rom. A., S., 
 1589-1680. 
 
 Bigordi, see Ghirlandajo. 
 
 Bol, Ferd., Dutch P., 1611-81. 
 
 Boltraffio ( Beltraffio ), Giov. Ant., 
 Mil. P., pupil of Leonardo da Vinci, 
 1467-1516. 
 
 Bonannus, Pisan A., S., end of 12th 
 cent. 
 
 Bonito, Nice., Rom. P., 18th cent. 
 
 Bonvicino, see Moretto. 
 
 Botticelli, Aless. or Sandro, Flor. P., 
 1446-1510. 
 
 Bronzino, Angelo, Flor. P., 1502-72. 
 
 Brueghel, Pieter , the Elder, Flemish 
 P., 1520-69. 
 
 Buonarroti, see Michael Angelo. 
 
 Buono (Buoni), Silvestro, Neap. P., 
 d. 1480. 
 
 Calabrese, il (Matteo Preti), Neap. 
 P., 1613-99. 
 
 Calidri, Paolo, see Veronese. 
 
 Cambiaso ,Luca , Genovese P., 1527-85. 
 
 Cambio, Arnolfo del (di), Flor. A., 
 S., 1240-1311. — (xlvii). 
 
 Camilliani ( Camillani), Flor. S., end 
 of lbth cent. 
 
 Camuccini, Vine., Rom. P., 1773-1844. 
 
 Camulio, Bartol. da, Sicil. P., 14th 
 cent. — (249). 
 
 Canaletto (Bern. Belotti), Ven. P., 
 1724-80. 
 
 Canova, Antonio, S., 1757-1832. 
 
 Cappuccino Genovese, see Strozzi. 
 
 Caracci, see Carracci. 
 
 Caracciolo, Giov. Batt. (surn. Bat- 
 tistello) , Neap. P., d. 1641. — 
 (xlvii). 
 
 Caravaggio , Michelangelo Amerighi 
 da, Lomb. and Rom. P., 1569-1609. 
 
 — , Polidoro Gaidar a da, Rom. P., 
 1495-1543. — (xlvii). 
 
406 
 
 LIST OF ARTISTS. 
 
 Carracci , Annibale , Bol. P., 1560- 
 1609. 
 
 — , Lodovico , Bol. P., 1555-1619. 
 Cavallini , Pietro , Rom. P., 14th cent. 
 
 — (xlvii). 
 
 Celebrano , Franc., Neap. S., 18th 
 cent. 
 
 Cellini , Benvenuto , Flor. S. and gold- 
 smith, 1500-72. 
 
 Ciccione , Andrea, Neap. A., S., d. 
 1457. 
 
 Claude le Lorrain ( GelUe ), French 
 P., 1600-82. 
 
 C<wca, Ne&., Neap. P., 1679-1764. 
 Conradini (Corrad.) , Ant., S., d. 
 1752. 
 
 Corenzio, Belisario, P., 1558-1648. — 
 (xlvii). 
 
 Correggio ( Antonio Allegri da), Parm. 
 P., 1494?-1534. 
 
 Corso, Vine., Neap. P., d. 1545. 
 Cosmati , Rom. family of stone- 
 mosaicists, 13th cent. 
 
 Cranach, Luc., German P., 1472- 
 1553. 
 
 Credi, Lorenzo di, Flor. P., 1459-1537. 
 Crescenzio, Ant., Sicil. P., first half 
 of 15th cent. — (249). 
 
 Criscuolo, Giov. Fil., Neap. P., 1495- 
 1584. 
 
 Crivelli, Carlo, Ven. P., ca. 1468-93. 
 Bold, Carlo , Flor. P., 1616-86. 
 Domenichino ( Domenico Zampieri), 
 Bol. P., A., 1581-1641. — (xlviii). 
 Donatello ( Donato di Niccolb di Betti 
 Bardi ), Flor. S., 1386-1466. 
 Donzello, Piero and Ippol, Neap. P., 
 alleged pupils of Zingaro , 15th 
 cent. — (xlvii). 
 
 Diirer, Albr., German P., 1471-1528. 
 Dyck, Ant. van, Flemish P., 1599- 
 1641. 
 
 Euphranor , Greek S., P., 375-335 B. C. 
 
 — (xxxvi). 
 
 Eyck, Hubert van, Flemish P., horn 
 ca. 1360-70, d. ca. 1426. 
 
 — , Jan van, Flemish P., born ca. 
 1381-95, d. 1440. 
 
 Fabriano , Gentile da, Umbr. P., 
 1360 V-1440?. 
 
 Falcone, Aniello,- Neap. P., 1600-1665. 
 
 — (xlviii). 
 
 Fansaga , Cosimo, P., S., A., 1591-1678. 
 Fiesole, Fra Giovanni Angelico da, 
 see Angelico. 
 
 Finoglia, Paolo Dom., Neap. P., d. 
 1656. 
 
 Fiore, Agnello del, Neap. S., d. ca. 
 1500. 
 
 — , Colantonio del (Nice. Tomasi), P., 
 14th cent. 
 
 Fontana, Dom., Rom. A., 1543-1607. 
 — , Lavinia, Bol. P., 1552-1602. 
 
 Franco, Agnolo, Neap. P., d. ca. 1445. 
 Fuccio, A., first half of 13th cent. 
 Fuga, Fernando, Rom. A., 1699-1780. 
 Gabriele eT Agnolo, Neap. A., ca. 1496. 
 Gaetano, Scipione , Neap. P., 16th 
 cent. 
 
 Gagini (Gaggini), Ant., Sicil. S., 
 born 1480, and sons. — (249). 
 Gargiulo, Dom., surn. Micco Spadaro, 
 Neap. P., 1612-79. 
 
 Garofalo ( Benvenuto Tisio) , Ferr. 
 P., 1481-1559. 
 
 Ghirlandajo , Dom. (Dom. Bigordi), 
 Flor. P., 1449-94. 
 
 Giordano, Luca, surn. Fa Presto, 
 Neap. P., ca. 1632-1705. — (xlviii). 
 Giotto (di Bondone), Flor. P., A., S., 
 1276-1337. — (xlvii). 
 
 Guercino, il ( Giov. Franc. Barbieri), 
 Bol. P., 1590-1666. 
 
 Hackert, Phil., Gorman P., 1737-1807. 
 Hayez, Franc., Ital. P., born 1791. 
 Ictinus, Greek A., 5th cent. B. C. — 
 
 — (xlii). 
 
 Kaufmann, Maria Angelica, German 
 P., 1741-1807. 
 
 Lama, Gian Bernardo, Neap. P., 
 1508-79. 
 
 Lanfranco, Giov., Lomb. and Rom. 
 P., 1580 ?-1647. 
 
 Leonardo da Vinci, P., S., A., 1452- 
 1519. 
 
 Lotto, Lorenzo, Yen. P., 1480?-1554?. 
 Lucas van Leyden (Luca d^Olanda), 
 Dutch P., 1494-1533. 
 
 Luini, Bernardino , Mil. P., 1470 V- 
 1530?. 
 
 Maglione, Flor. P., S., second half 
 of 13th cent. 
 
 Majano, Benedetto da, Flor. A., S., 
 1442-97. 
 
 — , Giuliano da, Flor. A., 1432-90. 
 Mantegna, Andrea, Pad. P., 1431- 
 1506. 
 
 Masuccio the Elder, Neap. A., S., ca. 
 1230-1305. 
 
 — , the Younger, Neap. A., S., ca. 
 1291-1388. 
 
 Mazzoni, Guido (il Modanino), Mod. 
 S., d. 1518. 
 
 Mazzuola, Fil., Parm. P., d. 1505. 
 
 — , Franc., see Parmigianino. 
 
 Mengs, Ant. Raphael, P., 1728-79. 
 Merliano, Giov., see Nola, Giov. da. 
 Messina , Antonello da, Sicil. P., b. 
 
 after 1410, d. ca. 1493. — (249). 
 Michael Angelo Buonarroti, A., S., 
 P., 1475-1564. 
 
 Michelozzo, Flor. A., S., 1391-1472. 
 Mignard, Pierre, French P., 1612-95. 
 Mnesicles, Greek A., 5th cent. B. C. 
 
 — (xlii). 
 
 | Modanino, see Mazzoni. 
 
LIST OF ARTISTS. 
 
 407 
 
 Monrealese , see Novelli , Pietro , 
 
 Mont or soli. Fra Giov. Ang., Flor. S., 
 ca. 1506-63. 
 
 Moretto da Brescia (Alessandro Bon- 
 vicini or Bonvicino), Ven. P., 1498- 
 1555. 
 
 Mur an o, Bartol. da , see Vivarini. 
 Nicias , Greek P., ca. 348-308 B. C. 
 
 — (xxxvi). 
 
 Nicomachus , Greek P., about 400 
 B. C. — (xxxvi). 
 
 Nola, Giov. da (Giov. Merliano ), 
 Neap. S., 1478-1559. 
 
 Novelli , Pietro (il Monrealese). Sicil. 
 
 P., 1603-47. — (250). 
 
 Palma Vecchio, Giac., Yen. P., 1480- 
 1528. 
 
 Pannini , Giov. Paolo. Rom. P., 1695- 
 1768. 
 
 Papa , Simone , the Elder , Neap. P., 
 15th cent. — (xlvii). 
 
 — , £m., the Younger , Neap. P., 
 1506-67. 
 
 Parmigianino (Franc. Mazzuola), 
 Parm. P., 1503-40. 
 
 Parrhasius , Greek P., end of 5th 
 cent. B. C. — (xxxv). 
 
 Pasiteles , Greco-Rom. S., 72-48 B. C. 
 
 — (xxxiii). 
 
 Pausias , Greek P., 4th cent. B. C. 
 
 — (xxxvi). 
 
 Pans on , Greek P., about 400 B. C. 
 (xxxv). 
 
 Perugino , Pietro (Pietro Vannucci ), 
 Umbr. P.,. 1446-1524. 
 
 Phidias, Greek S., 500-430 B. C. 
 Pinturicchio, Bern., Umbr. P., 1454- 
 
 1513. 
 
 Piombo, Sebast. del, see Sebastiano. 
 Pippi, see Romano. 
 
 Pisano, Giov., Pis. A., S., son of 
 Niccolo, d. 1320. 
 
 — , Niccola(b), Pis. A., S., d. 1278. 
 Polidoro, see Caravaggio. 
 
 Polycletus , Greek S., 5th cent. B. C. 
 
 Polygnotus, Greek P., 480-30 B. C. — 
 
 — (xxxiv). 
 
 Pontormo, Jac. (Carrucci) da, Flor. 
 P., 1494-1557. 
 
 Porta, Bart, della, see Bartolommeo. 
 — , Guglielmo della, Lomb. S., d. 
 1577. 
 
 Praxiteles, Greek S., about 364 B. C. 
 Prete Genovese, see Strozzi. • 
 
 Preti, Matteo, see Calabrese. 
 
 Puligo, Bom., Flor. P., 1475-1527. 
 Queirolo, Ant., S., 18th cent. 
 
 Raphael Santi da Urbino , P., A., 
 1483-1520. 
 
 Rembrandt Harmensz van Rijn, Dutch 
 P., 1607-69. 
 
 Reni, Guido, Bol. P., 1574-1642. 
 
 Ribera, see Spagnoletto. 
 
 Robusli, see Tintoretto. 
 
 Roman elli, Giov. Franc., P., ca. 1610- 
 62. 
 
 Romano, Giulio (G. Pippi), Rom. P., 
 A., 1492-1546. 
 
 Rosa , Salvator, Neap. P., 1615 (not 
 1605)-73. — (xlvii). 
 
 Rossellino, Ant., Flor. S., A., b. 1427, 
 d. ca. 1478. 
 
 Rubens, Petrus Paulus, Flemish P., 
 1577-1640. 
 
 Ruzulone, Pietro, Sicil. P., 15t.h cent. 
 — (249). 
 
 Sabattini, Andr., see Salerno, Andr. 
 da. 
 
 Salerno, Andrea da (Andr. Sabattini), 
 Neap. P., follower of Raphael, 
 1480-1545. — (xlvii). 
 
 Saliba , Antonello da, Sicil. P., 15t,h 
 cent. — (249). 
 
 Sammarlino , Gius., Neap. S., 1728- 
 1800. 
 
 Sanctis, Giac. de, Neap. A., d. 1543. 
 
 Sangallo, Francesco da, son of Giu- 
 liano da S., Flor. S., 1497-1575. 
 
 Santacroce, Girol. (da), Ven. P., ca. 
 1520-49. 
 
 Santafede, Fabrizio , Neap. P., 1560- 
 1634. 
 
 — , Francesco, Neap. P., father of 
 Fabrizio, 16th cent. 
 
 Santi, Raphael, see Raphael. 
 
 Sarto, Andrea del, Flor. P., 1487- 
 1531. 
 
 Sassoferrato (Giov. Bait. Salvi), Rom. 
 P., 1605-85. 
 
 Schidone, Bart., Mod. P., d. 1615. 
 
 Scilla, Agost ., Sicil. P., 1639-1700. 
 
 Sebastiano del Piombo , Ven. and 
 Rom. P., 1485-1547. 
 
 Sesto, Cesar e da, Mil. P., pupil of 
 Leonardo da Vinci, d. after 1524. 
 
 Siciliano, Giov. Bernardino, Neap. P., 
 S., 1606-87. 
 
 Siena, Marco da, P., A., second half 
 of 16th cent. 
 
 — , Matteo da, P., middle of 16th 
 cent. 
 
 Simone di Martino (Sim. Martini ), 
 Sien. P., 1283-1344. — (xlvii). 
 
 Sddoma, il ( Giov. Ant. Bazzi), Sien. 
 and Lomb. P., ca. 1473-1549. 
 
 Solario , Ant., see Zingaro. 
 
 Solimena, Franc, (surn. Abbate Ciccio), 
 Neap. P., 1657-1747. 
 
 Spada, Lionello, Bol. P., 1556-1622. 
 
 Spagnoletto (Gius. Ribera), Span.- 
 Neap. P., 1588-1656. — (xlvii). 
 
 Stanzioni , Massimo, Neap. P., 1585- 
 1656. — (xlviii). 
 
 Ste/ani, Pietro degli, Neap. S., P., 
 b. 1228, d. after 1318. 
 
408 
 
 LIST OF ARTISTS. 
 
 Stefani , Tommaso degli , Neap. P., 1231- 
 1310. 
 
 Strozzi , Bernardo (il Cappuccino or 
 il Prete Genovese). Genovese P., 
 1581-1644. 
 
 Tauriscus of Tralles, Greek S., brother 
 of Apollonius. — (xxxiii). 
 Thorvaldsen. Bertel. Danish S., 1770- 
 1844. 
 
 Timanthes , Greek P., about 400 B. C. 
 
 — (xxxvi). 
 
 Timomachus , Greek P., about 300B. C. 
 
 — (xxxvi). 
 
 Tintoretto, il ( Jac . Robusti), Ven. P., 
 1518-94. 
 
 Tisio, Benven ., see Garofalo. 
 
 Titian (Tiziano Vecellio da Cadore), 
 Ven. P., 1477-1575 
 
 Traversa ( Charles Prang, de la Tra- 
 verse), French P., d. 1778. 
 
 Vaccaro , Andrea, Neap. P., 1598- 
 1670. 
 
 Vannucci, Pietro, see Perugino. 
 
 Vanvitelli, Luigi, A., 1700-73. 
 
 Vasari, Giorgio, Flor. P., A., and 
 writer on art, 1512-74. 
 
 Vecellio, Tiziano, see Titian. 
 Velazquez (Diego V. de Silva), Span. 
 P., 1599-1660. 
 
 Venusti, Marcello, P., pupil of Michael 
 Angelo, d. ca. 1570. 
 
 Veronese, Paolo (P. Caliari) , Ven. 
 P., 1528-88. 
 
 Vigilia, Tommaso di, Sicil. P., pupil 
 of Ant. Crescenzio , 15th cent. — 
 (249). 
 
 Vinci, Leonardo da, see Leonardo. 
 Vivarini , Alwise (or Luigi), Ven. P., 
 ca. 1464-1503. 
 
 — , Bart. (Bart, da Murano), Ven. 
 
 P., ca. 1450-99. 
 
 Zampieri, see Domenichino. 
 
 Zeuxis, Greek P., 4th cent. B. C. — 
 (xxxv). 
 
 Zingaro, lo (Ant. Solario), Neap. P.. 
 ca. 1382-1455. — (xlvii). 
 
 Leipsic: Printed by Breitkopf & Hartei. 
 
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