^r n I 1 Id IH rJi.'li'J. .1^1 f-l I > I r' 4 t > I «■ r f . LI B RAR.Y OF THL U N IVERSITY Of ILLl NOIS ^917.12 M22n I.H.S NOTES OF A TWENTY-FIYE YEAES' SERVICE IK THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. VOL. I. LONDON : R. CLAT, PRINTER, BREAP STREET HIM.. NOTES OF A TWENTY-FIVE YEAKS' SEKVIGE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. BY JOHN M'LEAN. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, J^ublisft^v «« ©rlrinarp to i^ct JHajestg. 1849. f PHEFACE. ft. cr in VI The writer's main object in first commit- ting to writing the following Notes was to while away the many lonely and wearisome hours which are the lot of the Indian trader ; — *■ a wish to gratify his friends by the narrative 3 of the folly or presumption, or whatever else it may be termed, of obtruding them on the world, in these days of " making many , books ;" he feels that he can rest his H vindication on higher grounds. Although a 3 VI PREFACE. several works of much merit have appeared in connexion with the subject, the Hudson's Bay territory is yet, comparatively speak- ing, but little known ; no faithful repre- sentation has yet been given of the situation of the Company's servants — the Indian traders ; with the degradation and misery of the many Indian tribes, or rather renmants of tribes, scattered throughout this vast terri- tory, the public are little acquainted ; erroneous statements have gone abroad in regard to the Company's treatment of these Indians ; as also in regard to the government, policy, and management of the Company's affairs. On these points, he conceives that his plain, unvarnished tale may throw some new light. Some of the details may seem trivial, and some of the incidents to be without much interest to the general reader ; still as it was one chief design of the writer to draw PREFACE. VU a faithful picture of the Indian trader's Ufe, — its toils, annoyances, privations, and perUs, when on actual service, or on a trading or exploring expedition ; its loneliness, cheerless- ness, and ennui, when not on actual service ; together with the shifts to which he is reduced in order to combat that ennui; — such inci- dents, trifling though they may appear to be, he conceives may yet convey to the reader a live- Her idea of life in the Hudson's Bay Company's territories than a more ambitious or laboured description could have done. No one, indeed, who has passed his life amid the busy haunts of men, can form any just idea of the interest attached by the lonely trader to the most trifling events, such as the arrival of a stranger Indian, — the coming of a new clerk, — a scuffle among the Indians, — or a sudden change of weather. No one, unaccustomed to their " short commons, " can conceive the intense, it may be said fearful, interest and excitement Vm PREFACE. with wliich the issue of a fishing or hunting expedition is anticipated. Should his work contribute, in any de- gree, to awaken the sympathy of the Chris- tian world in behalf of the wi-etched and degraded Aborigines of this vast territory; should it tend in any way to expose, or to reform the abuses in the management of the Hudson's Bay Company, or to render its mono- poly less injurious to the natives than hitherto it has been ; the writer's labour will have been amply compensated. Interested as he still is in that Company, with a considerable stake depending on its returns, it can scarcely be supposed that he has any intention, wan- tonly or unnecessarily, to injure its interests. GuELPH, Canada West, 1st March, 1849. CONTENTS OP THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPTER I. PAGB The Hudson's Bay Company and Territories 13 CHAPTEE II. I enter the Hudson's Bay Company's Service— Padre Gibert 21 CHAPTER III. On Service — Lake of Two Mountains —Opposition — Indians — Amusements at the Posts 27 CHAPTER IV. Portage des Chats— Tactics of our Opponents — Treachery of an Iroquois— Fierce yet ludicrous nature of the Opposi- tion 42 CHAPTER V. Arrival at the Chats— Installed as Bourgeois— First Trad- ing Excursion — Bivouac in the Woods— Indian Barbarity 54 CHAPTER VI. Trip to Fort Coulonge— Mr. Godin— Natives 65 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. Superseded — Feelings on the Occasion — More Opposition — iE. Macdonell — Tactics — Melancholy Death of an Indian . 76 CHAPTER VIII. Activity of our Opponents — Violent Conduct of an Indian — Narrow Escape — Artifice— Trip to Indian's Lodge — Stupidity of Interpreter 92 CHAPTER IX. Expedition to the Bear's Den — Passage through the Swamp —Cunning of the Indians — A Scuffle— Its Results . . .104 CHAPTER X. Pfere Duchamp— Mr. S.'s Instructions— Unsuccessful— Trad- ing Excursion— Difficulties of the Journey— Lose our way — Provisions fail — Reach the Post — Visit to an Algonquin Chief— His abusive Treatment — Success . .116 CHAPTER XI. Success of the Iroquois Traders — Appointed to the Charge of the Chats — Canadian disputes Possession — Bivouac without a Fire — Ruse to baffle my Opponents— Roman Catholic Bigotr}' 135 CHAPTER XII. Journey to Montreal — Appointment to Lac de Sable— Ad- vantages of this Post— Its Difficulties— Governor's flatter- ing Letter— Return from Montreal— Lost in the Woods— Sufferings— Escape 146 CHAPTER XIII. Narrowly escape Drowning — Accident to Indian Guide- Am nearly Frozen to Death — Misunderstanding be- tween Algonquins and Iroquois — Massacre at Hannah Bay 161 CONTENTS. • XI CHAPTER XIT. Fall through the Ice — Dangerous Adventure at a Rapid — Opponents give in — Ordered to Lachine — Treatment on my Arrival — Manners, Habits, and Superstitions of the Indians — Ferocious Revenge of a supposed Injury^Dif- ferent Methods of the Roman Catholic and Protestant Missionary — Indian Councils — Tradition of the Flood — Beaver Hunting — Language 176 CHAPTER XV. Embark for the Interior — Mode of Travelling by Canoes — Little River — Lake Nipissing — French River — Old Sta- tion of Indian Robbers — Fort Mississaga — Indians — Light Canoe-Men — Sault Ste. Marie — Lake Superior^ — Canoe-men desert — Re-taken — Fort AVilliam — M. Thibaud — Lac la Pluie and River — Indians — White River — Nar- row Escape —Conversation with an Indian about Baptism 197 CHAPTER XVI. Continuation of the Voyage — Run short of Provisions — Dogs' Flesh — Norway House — Indian Voyageurs — Ordered to New Caledonia — Lake Winnipeg — Mcintosh's Island submerged — Cumberland House — Chippewayan and Cree Indians — Portage LaLoche — Scenery — Athabasca — Healthiness of the Climate 218 CHAPTER XVII. Arrival of Mr. F. from Caledonia — Scenery — Land-slip — Massacre at Fort St. John's — Rocky Mountain Portage — Rocky Mountains — Magnificent Scenery — McLeod's Lake — Reception of its Commander by the Indians . . 233 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. I'AHE Arrival ai New Caledonia — Beautiful Scenery — Indian Houses — Amusements at the Fort — Threatened Attack of Indians — Expedition against them — Beefsteaks — New Caledonian Fare — Mode of catching Salmon — Singular Death of native Interpreter — Indian Funeral Eites — Barbarous Treatment of Widows 241 CHAPTER XIX. Indian Feast — Attempt at Dramatic Representation — Reli- gion — Ordered to Fort Alexandria — Advantages of the Situation — Sent back to Fort St. James — Solitude — Punishment of Indian Murderer — Its Consequences — Heroic Adventure of Interpreter 258 CHAPTER XX. Appointed to the Charge of Fort George — Murder of Mr. Yale's Men — Mysterious Loss of Mr. Linton and Family- Adventures of Leather Party — Failure of Crops — Influenza 274 CHAPTER XXI. Climate of New Caledonia — Scenery — Natural Productions — Animals — Fishes — Natives — Their Manners and Cus- toms — Duelling — Gambling — Licentiousness — Language . 284 NOTES OF A TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE AT THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. CHAPTER I. THE Hudson's bay company and teheitokies. That part of British North America known bj the name of the Hudson's Bay territory extends from the eastern coast in about 60" W. long, to the Russian boundary in 14^° W.; and from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the Ottawa River and the northern shores of Lakes Huron and Superior, and thence to the boundary line of the United States ; extending in latitude thence to the northern limit VOL. I. B 14 THE company's TERRITORY. of America; being in length about 2,600 miles, and in breadth about 1,400 miles. This extensive space may be divided into three portions, each differing most materially in aspect and surface. The first and most extensive is that which is on the east, from the Labrador coast, round Hudson's Bay, northward to the Arctic region, and west- ward to the Rocky Mountains. This is entirely a wooded district, affording that plentiful supply of timber which forms so large a branch of the Ca- nadian export trade. These interminable forests are principally composed of pines of large size, but which towards the northern boundary are of a very stinted growth. Another portion is the prairie country, reaching from Canada westward to the Rocky Mountains, and intersected by the boundary line of the United States. In general, the soil is rich alluvial, which being covered with luxuriant herbage, affords pasturage for the vast herds of wild buffaloes which roam over these ex- tensive plains. The western part is that which lies between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, including the Oregon territory, which THE MONTREAL DEPARTMENT. 15 was likely to have led to a serious misunder- standing between Great Britain and the United States. These extensive portions are divided bj the Hudson's Bay Company into four departments, and these departments are again subdivided into districts. At the head of each department and district a chief factor or chief trader generally presides, to whom all the officers within their respective jurisdictions are amenable. Those in charge of posts, whatever may be their rank, are subject to the authority of the person at the head of the district; and that person receives his in- structions from the superintendent of the depart- ment. The whole affairs of the country at large are regulated by the Governor and Council, and their decisions again are referred, for final ad- justment, to the Governor and Committee in London. The Montreal department comprehends all the districts and posts along the Gulf and River St. Lawrence ; also the different posts along the banks of the Ottawa and the interior country. The B 2 16 NORTUERN AND SOUTHERN DEPARTMENTS. depot of the department is at Lachine, where all the returns are collected, and the outfits prepared. The southern department has its depot at Moose Factory, in James's Bay; it includes the districts of Albany, Rupert's House, Temiscamingue, Lake Huron, and Lake Superior, together with several isolated posts along the shores of the Bay. The northern department is very extensive, having for its southern boundary the line which divides the British from the American territories, sweeping east and west from Lac La Pluie, in 95" W. long, and 49° N. lat. to the Rocky Mountains in 115" W. long.; then, with the Rocky Mountains for its western boundary, it extends northward to the Arctic Sea. The whole of this vast country is divided into the following districts: Norway House, Rainy Lake, Red River, Saskatche- wan, English River, Athabarca, and McKenzie's River. The depot of this department is York Factory, in Hudson's Bay, and is considered the grand emporium ; here the grand Council is held, which is formed of the Governor and such chief TUE COLUMBIA DEPARTMENT. 17 factors and chief traders as may be present. The duty of the latter is to sit and listen to whatever measures the Governor may have determined on, and give their assent thereto, no debating or vetoing being ever thought of ; the Governor being absolute, his measures therefore more re- quire obedience than assent. Chief traders are also permitted to sit in council as auditors, but have not the privilege of being considered members. The Columbia department is bounded on the east by the Rocky Mountains, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. An ideal line divides it on the south from the province of California, in lat. 41° 30' ; and it joins the Russian boundary in lat. 55". This, although a very extensive depart- ment, does not consist of many districts ; New Caledonia is the principal, situated among the Rocky Mountains, and having several of its posts established along the banks of the Fraser River, which disembogues itself into the Gulf of Georgia in nearly 49° lat. and 122° W. long. The next is Colville, on the Columbia River, 18 THE NAVAL DEPARTMENT. along with some isolated posts near the confluence of the same river. The forts^ or trading posts, along the north-west coast, have each their re- spective commander. The shipping business is conducted by a person appointed for that pur- pose, who is styled, par excellence, the head of the *' Naval department." The Company have a steamboat and several sailing vessels, for the purpose chiefly of trading with the natives along the coast. The primary object, however, is not so much the trade, as to keep brother Jonathan in check, (whose propensity for encroaching has of late been " pretty much" exhibited,) and to deter him from forming any establishments on the coasts ; there being a just apprehension that if once a footing were obtained on the coast, an equal eagerness might be manifested for extending their locations into the interior. Strong parties of hunters are also constantly employed along the southern frontier for the purpose of destroying the fur-bearing animals in that quarter ; the end in view being to secure the interior from the en- croachments of foreign interlopers. The depot of GOVERNOR AND DEPUTY-GOVERNOR, 19 this department is at Fort Vaucouver, on the Columbia River. The Hudson's Bay Company, as it at present exists, was incorporated in the winter of 1820 — 21, a coalition having been then formed with the North-West Company. Upon this taking place, an Act of Parliament was obtained which gave them not only the possession of the terri- tory they had originally held by virtue of their royal charter, but also investing them with the same rights and privileges conferred by that charter in and over all the territories that had been settled by the North-West Company for a term of twenty-one years. The Governor, Deputy-Governor, and managing Committee, are, properly speaking, the only capi- talists. The stock is divided into one hundred shares; sixty of which their Honours retain for themselves ; and the remaining forty are divided among the chief traders and chief factors, who manage the affairs in the Indian country. A chief factor holds two of these shares, and a chief trader one ; of which they retain the full interest for one 20 SHAREHOLDERS OF THE COMPANY. year after they retire, and half interest for the six following years. These cannot he said to be stock- holders, for they are not admitted to any share in the executive management; but according to the present system they are termed Commissioned Officers, and receive merely the proceeds of the share allotted to them. They enjoy, however, one very superior advantage, — they are not subjected to bear their share in any losses which the Com- pany may sustain. It is generally reckoned thaf the value of one share is on an average about 850/. sterling a-year. By the resignation of two chief traders, one share is at the Company's disposal the year after, which is then bestowed on a clerk. When two chief factors retire, a chief trader is promoted in like manner. Promotion also take place when the shares of the retired partners fall in. PADRE GIBERT. 21 CHAPTER II. I ENTEK THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S SEEVICE — PADKE GIBEET. I ENTERED the service of the Company in the winter of 1820 — 21, and after passing my contract at Montreal in the month of January, I took up my residence for the remainder of the season with a French priest, in the parish of Petit le Maska, for the purpose of studying the French language. The Padre was a most affable, liberal-minded man, a warm friend of England and Englishmen, and a staunch adherent to their government, which he considered as the most perfect under the sun. The fact is, that the old gentleman, along with many others of his countrymen who had escaped from the horrors of the French Revolution, had b3 22 PADRE GIBERT. found an asylum in our land of freedom, which they could find nowhere else; and the personal advantages that had accrued to him from that cir- cumstance, naturally induced a favourable disposi- tion towards his benefactors, their laws, and their institutions. Though the Padre was extremely liberal in his political opinions, his management of his worldly affairs bore the stamp of the most sordid parsimony. He worshipped the golden calf, and his adoration of the image was manifest in everything around him. He wore a cassock of cloth which had in former times been of a black colour, but was now of a dusky grey, the woollen material being so completely incorporated with dust as to give it that colour. His table was furnished with such fare as his farm produced, with the addition, on particular occasions, of a bottle of black strap. A charming nymph, of some fifty years of age or so, had the management of .the household, and discharged all her duties with strict decorum and care. I have the beauties of !! her person in my mind's eye to this day. She was hump-backed, short-necked, and one-eyed, and MARGUERITE AND JOSEPH. 23 squinted bewitchingly with the remaining one: she had a short leg and a long one, a high shoulder and a low. In short, the dear creature seemed to be formed, or rather deformed, by the hand of nature on purpose to fill the situation of house- keeper for a priest, — so that whatever might be his age, no scandal could possibly attach itself to him from such a housekeeper. The man- servant was directly the counterpart of the charm- ing Marguerite ; he also was far advanced in the vale of years, and was of a most irascible temper. To stir up Joseph to the grinning point was a very easy matter ; and his frantic gesticulations, when thus goaded to wrath by our teasing pleasantries, (there were two other young gentlemen beside myself,) were of the most extraordinary descrip- tion, and afforded infinite amusement. We never failed to amuse ourselves at Joseph's expense, when the Padre's absence permitted our doing so with impunity, — especially as a small present of tobacco, which was always kept at hand for such occasions, soon made us friends again. But it sometimes happened that such jokes were carried 24 AN ALARM. too far, so as to render the oifering of incense quite unacceptable, when the touch of metal could alone produce the desired effect. I remained with Father Gibert until spring, and shall take leave of him by relating an anecdote or two illustrative of his loyalty and benevolence. Some time during Madison's un- provoked war with Great Britain, an alarm came from the upper part of the parish of which Father Gibert was curt, that a party of Americans had been seen marching down the country. The Capi- taine of militia, who was the cure's next door neighbour, was immediately sent for, and by their joint influence and authority a considerable num- ber of kabitans were soon assembled under arms, such as they were. The Father then shoul- dering his musket, and placing himself at the head of his parishioners, led them into his garden, which was enclosed by a picket fence, and bor- dered on the highway. Here the loyal band took their stand under cover of the fence, waiting to give Jonathan a warm reception the moment he came within reach. The supposed Americans FRIENDS OF ST. PATRICK. 25 proved to be a small detachment of British troops, and thus the affair ended. On another occasion during the same period the Padre's loyalty and good humour were mani- fested, though in a different manner. While amusing himself in the garden one day, he over- heard two Irish soldiers engaged in conversation to this effect : — " You know that the ould boy asks every body afore he gives any praties, if they belong to St. Patrick ; well, is it a hard matter to tell him we do, agrah ? " " Sure you'd be telling a lie, Paddy !" " Never mind that," said Paddy, " I'll spake." The old gentleman immediately returned to the house, and entering by a back door, was snugly seated in his arm-chair, book in hand, when the two Hibernians were admitted. •'"Well, my boys, what is your business with me ? " " We would be wanting a few praties, if your Riverence could spare them." " Aha ! you are from Ireland, I perceive. 26 FRIENDS OF ST. PATRICK. Irishmen very fond of potatoes ! Wei], my boys, I have a few remaining, and you shall have some if you belong to St. Patrick." "Faith, audit is all as your honour says; we are Irishmen, and we belong to St. Patrick." The old gentleman ordered Joseph to supply them with the " blessed root," without any further parley. Then addressing the speaker in a voice of assumed choler, exclaimed : — ** You are a great raskail ! does your religion teach you to tell lies ? You are Protestant both of you. However, if you do not belong to St. Patrick, you belong to the King of England, and I give my potatoes for his sake. But you must never try to impose upon an old priest again, or you may not come so well off." ARRIVAL AT MONTREAL. ' 27 CHAPTER III. ON SEKVICE — LAKE OP TWO MOUNTAINS — OPPOSITION — INDIANS — AMUSEMENTS AT THE POSTS. I ARRIVED at Montreal about the beginning of May, and soon learnt that I was appointed to the post at Lake of Two Mountains. The Montreal department was headed at that time by Mr. Thane, a man of rather eccentric character, but possessed of a heart that glowed with the best feelings of humanity. I was allowed to amuse myself a few days in town, having directions however to call at the office every day, in case my services should be required. The period of departure at length arrived. I was one evening accosted by Mr. Thane in these terms : — " I say, youngster, you have been trifling away your time long enough 28 LAKE OF TWO MOUNTAINS. here ; you must hold yourself ready to embark for your destination to-morrow morning at five o'clock precisely. If you delay one moment, you shall have cause to remember it." Such positive injunctions were not disregarded by me. I was of course ready at the time appointed, and after all the hurry, had the honour of breakfasting with my commander before departing ; but the woful and disheartening accounts of the hardships and priva- tions I was to suffer in the country to which I was to proceed, fairly spoiled my appetite. I was told that my only lodging was to be a tent, my only food Indian corn, when I could get it ; and many other comforts were enumerated with the view of producing a certain effect, which my countenance no doubt betrayed, whilst he chuckled with the greatest delight at the success of his jokes. I took leave, and found myself that evening at the Lake of Two Mountains. On my arrival, a large build- ing was pointed out to me as the Company's esta- blishment, to which I soon found admittance, and was, to my great surprise, ushered into a large well furnished apartment. Tea had just been served. THE IROQUOIS AND ALGONQUINS. 29 with a variety of substantial accompaniments, to whicli I felt heartily disposed to do ample justice, after my day's abstinence. This was very different entertainment from what I had been led to expect in the morning ; would it had been my lot to be always so agreeably deceived ! The village of the Lake of Two Mountains is inhabited by two distinct tribes of the aborigines — viz. the Iroquois and the Algonquins ; the latter are a tribe of the Sauteux nation, or Ojibbeway, and live principally by the chase. The former culti- vate the soil, and engage as voyageurs, or in any other capacity that may yield them the means of subsistence. They are a very hardy industrious race ; but neither the habits of civilized life, nor the influence of the Christian religion, appear to have mitigated, in any material degree, the ferocity that characterized their pagan ancestors. Although they do not pay great deference to the laws of God, they are sufficiently aware of the consequences of violating the laws of man, and comport themselves accordingly. The Catholic seminary and church, along with 30 CATHOLIC SEMINARY AND CHURCH. the gardens of the establishment, ahnost divide the village into two equal parts ; yet this close proximity does not appear to encourage any friendly intercourse between the two tribes. They in fact seldom pass their respective limits, and, with few exceptions, cannot converse together, the language of the one being unintelligible to the other. The Company established a post here in the spring of 1819, and when I arrived it was in charge of Mr. Fisher, then a senior clerk. He had two other clerks under him, besides myself, a like number of attaches, two interpreters, two servants, and a horse to ride upon. "With such an establishment to rule over, need it be matter of surprise that our bourgeois was in his own estima- tion a magnate of the first order ? NHmporte, — whatever might be his vanity, he possessed those qualities which constitute a first-rate Indian trader, and he required' them to fill successfully his present situation. A number of petty traders were settled in the village, who, whenever the Company entered the lists against them, laid aside OPENING OF THE SPRING CAMPAIGN. 31 the feuds that subsisted among themselves, and joined to oppose their united efforts against tlie powerful rival that threatened to overwhelm them all. The spring fur campaign was about to open when I made my dtbut at the post. The natives being daily expected from the interior, all parties watched their arrival night and day. This was not a very harassing duty to us, as we relieved each other ; but the situation of our superior was exceedingly irksome and annoying. The moment an Indian canoe appeared (the Indians always arrived at night), we were ordered to apprize him of it ; having done so, he was immediately at the landing-place, our opponents being also there, attending to their own interests. Some of the natives were supplied by the Company, others by the petty traders ; and according as it happened to be the customers of either that arrived, the servants assisted in unloading the canoes, convey- ing the baggage to their houses, and kindling a fire. Provisions were furnished in abundance by both parties. Wliile these preliminary operations were being performed by the servants, the traders 32 INDIAN HUNTERS. surrounded the principal object of their sohcitude — the hunter ; first one, then another, taking him aside to persuade him of the superior claims each had on his love and gratitude. After being pestered in this manner for some time, he, (the hunter,) eventually allowed himself to be led away to the residence of one of the parties, where he was treated to the best their establishment afforded ; the natives, however, retaining their furs, and visiting from house to house, until satiated with the good cheer the traders had to give them, when they at length gave them up, but not always to the party to whom they were most indebted. They are generally great rogues ; the sound of the dollars, which the Company possessed in abundance, often brought the furs that were due to the petty trader to the Company's stores ; while some of our customers were induced by the same argument to carry their furs to our rivals. For a period of six weeks or so, the natives continued to arrive ; sometimes in brigades, sometimes in single canoes; during the whole THEIR INTEMPERANCE. 33 of this^eriod we were occupied in the manner now described, day and night. So great was the pressure of business, that we had scarcely time to partake of the necessary refreshment. "When they had at length all arrived, we enjoyed our night's rest, if indeed our continually disturbed slumbers could be called rest: — what with the howling of two or three hundred dogs, the tinkling of bells with which the horses the Indians rode were ornamented, the bawling of the squaws when beaten by their drunken husbands, and the yelling of the savages themselves when in that beastly state, sleep was impossible, — the infernal sounds that continually rent the air, produced such a symphony as could be heard nowhere else out of Pandemonium. No liquors were sold to the natives at the village, but they procured as much as they required from the opposite side of the lake. Some wretches of Canadians were always ready, for a trifling consideration, to purchase it for them; thus the law prohibiting the sale of liquor to the Indians was evaded. After wallowing in intem- perance for some time, they ultimately submitted 34 INDIAN AMUSEMENTS. to the authority of the priests, confessed their sins, received absolution, and became good Chris- tians for the remainder of the season. If any indulged in the favourite vice — a few always did — they were confined to their quarters by their families. After attending mass on Sundays, they amused themselves playing at ball, or running foot races ; and it was only on such occasions they were seen to associate with their neighbours the Iro- quois. They took opposite sides in the games ; small stakes were allowed, merely to create an interest in the issue of the contest. The chiefs of both tribes sat smoking their pipes together, viewing the sports in silent gravity, and acting as umpires in all cases of doubt between the parties. They, in fact, led a glorious life during the three months they remained at the village ; that period was to them a continued carnival. The best fare the country afforded — the best attire that money could procure — all that sensuality, all that vanity could desire — their means permitted them to enjoy. Their lands not having been hunted on during the war, the beaver multiplied at an extraordinary OPPOSITION. 35 rate, and now swarmed in every direction. Every individual belonging to the tribe might then have acquired an independent fortune. They arrived at the village, their canoes laden with furs; but the characteristic improvidence of their race blinded them to future consequences. Such was their wasteful extravagance, that the money obtained by the sale of their furs was dissipated ere half the summer season was over. The traders supplied them afterwards with all requisites at a moderate per centage ; and when they embarked in autumn for their hunting grounds, they found themselves deeply involved in debt, a few only excepted. In the course of this summer, some of our opponents foreseeing the probable issue of the contest they were engaged in, proposed tenns of capitulation, which were in most instances readily assented to by the Company; the inventories and outstanding debts were assumed at a certain valua- tion. They retired from the field, some with annuities for a stipulated period, while to others a round sum of money was granted ; in either case 36 DEPARTURE OF INDIANS. the party bound himself, under certain penalties, not to interfere in the trade for a stated period of time. In this manner the Company got rid of all petty opponents, with the exception of two who conti- nued the unequal contest. By the latter end of August the natives had all started for the interior, leaving behind only a few decrepit old men and women. The scene was now completely changed ; a death-like stillness prevailed where but a few days before all was activity, bustle and animation. Two of my brother scribes were ordered to the interior ; one* to the distant Lake Nipissingue, the other to the Chats. Mr. Fisher set off to enjoy himself in Montreal, Mr. Francher, the accountant, being appointed locum-tenens during his absence. Another young Scot and myself, together with two or three non-descripts, formed the winter establishment. Having just quitted the scenes of * This gentleman's name was Cockburn ; — ^lie met his end a few years afterwards in a very melancholy manner, wlule on his way to Montreal (having retired from the service). He rolled over the canoe on a dark night, and disappeared for ever! CAPTAIN DUCHARME. 37 civilized life, I found my present solitude suffi- ciently irksome ; the natural buoyancy of youthful spirits, however, with the amusements we got up amongst us, conspired to banish all gloomy thoughts from my mind in a very short time. We — my friend Mac and myself — soon became very intimate with two or three French families who resided in the village, who were, though in an humble station, kind and courteous, and who, moreover, danced, fiddled and played whist. There was another family of a different status from the others, that of Capt. Ducharme, the king's interpreter, a kind-hearted, hospitable man, who frequently invited us to his house, where we enjoyed the charms of polished society and good cheer. The captain's residence was in the Iroquois division of the village ; this circumstance led us to form another acquaintance that for some time affiarded us some amusement, en passant. We discovered that a very ugly old widow, who re- sided in that quarter, had two very pretty young daughters, to whom we discoursed in Gaelic ; they answered in Iroquois ; and in a short time the VOL. I. C 38 EVENING AMUSEMENTS, best understanding imaginable was established between us, (Mac and myself, be it always under- stood.) No harm came of it, though ; I vow there did not ; the priests, it seems, thought otherwise. Our acquaintance with the girls having come to their knowledge, we were one day honoured with a visit from the Iroquois padre ; the severe gravity of whose countenance convinced us at a glance of the nature of 'his mission. I must do him the justice to say, however, that his address to us was mild and admonitory, rather than severe or re- proachful. I resolved from that moment to speak no more Gaelic to the Iroquois maidens ; Mac continued his visits. We always amused ourselves in the evenings with our French confreres, (whom I have mentioned as " nondescripts," from the circumstance of their being under no regular engagement with the Com- pany,) playing cards or fiddling and dancing. We were on one occasion engaged in the latter amusement en ple'me midi — our Deputy Bour- geois being one of the party, and all of us in the highest possible glee, when lo ! in the midst of A REPRIMAND. 39 our hilarity, the hall door flew open and the great man stood sternly "before us. The hand-writing on the wall could scarcely have produced a more startling effect on the convivial party of old, than did this unexpected apparition upon us. We listened to the reprimand which followed in all due humility, none more crest-ftdlen than our worthy Deputy. Mr. Fisher then opened his portmanteau and drew forth a letter, which he presented to my friend Mac, exclaiming in a voice of thunder, " Read that, gentlemen, and hear what Mr. Thane thinks of your conduct." We read and trembled; Mac's defiance of the autho- rity of the priests offended them mortally ; a formal complaint was consequently preferred against the innocent and the guilty, (although there was no guilt in fact, unless speahing Gaelic to the wood-nymphs could be so construed,) and drew upon us the censures this dreadful missive conveyed. The magnate remained a few days, and on his departure for town, we resumed our usual pastimes, but selected a different path to Captain Ducharme's. The Fathers had requested, c 2 40 CATHOLIC CEREMONIES. I when this establishment was first formed, that! some of the Company's officers should attend church on Sundays for the purpose of showing a ' good example to the natives. I did so, on my part, very regularly until Christmas Eve, when having witnessed the ceremonies of the midnight mass, I determined on remaining at home in future. I ■ shuddered with horror at the idolatrous rites, as they appeared to me, which were enacted on that I occasion. The ceremonies commenced with the celebration of mass ; then followed the introduc- tion of the " Infant Jesus," borne by four of the ] choristers, attired in surplices of white linen. The ; image being placed by them on a sofa in front of; i the altar, the superior of the seminary made his' debut, retiring to the railing that surrounds the: altar, when he knelt, and bending low his head; apparently in devout adoration, he arose, then advanced two steps towards the altar and knelt! again ; be knelt the third time close to the side of j the image, which he devoutly embraced, then' withdrew : the younger priests performed the same ceremonies ; and after them every one of CATHOLIC CEREMONIES. 41 their congregation : yet these people protest that their religion has no connexion with idolatry, and that the representations of Protestants regarding it are false and calumnious. If we credit them, however, we must belie the evidence of our own senses ; but the fact is, there are not a few Roman Catholics who speak with very little respect them- selves of some of these mummeries. 42 PREPARATIONS FOR SPRING. CHAPTER IV. rORTAGE DES CHATS — TACTICS OF OTJK OPPONENTS — TKEACHERT OF AN IROQUOIS — FIERCE, YET LUDICROUS NATURE OF THE OPPOSITION. Mr. Fisher returned from town in the month of March; he had learnt that our opponents in- tended to shift the scene of operations to the Chats, (where the greater number of the Indians pass on their way going to or returning from their hunting grounds,) and were making preparations of a very extensive nature for the spring competition. The Company were not tardy in adopting such mea- sures as were deemed the most efficient to meet them on their own terms. We understood that they had hired two bullies for the purpose of de- ciding the matter par vote de fait. Mr. Fisher TACTICS OF OPPONENTS. 43 hired two of the same description, who were sup- posed to be more than a match for the opposition party. On the 28th of April, 1822, our opponents set off in two large canoes, manned by eight men in each ; we followed in three canoes with twenty- four men, under the command of three leaders — namely. Captain Ducharrae, who had volunteered on the occasion, Mr. Lyons, a retired trader, and myself. Nothing occurred worthy of description on our passage to the Chats. The Ottawa is at this point interrupted by a ledge of rock, which extends across its whole breadth. In forcing a passage for itself through this barrier, it is divided into several channels, w^hich form as many beautiful cascades as they fall into the extensive basin that receives them below. On one of the islands thus formed, the natives make a portage. Here, then, we took our station close to a cascade : our opponents com- menced building a hut on one side of the path, we on the other. While this operation was in progress, basilisk looks denoted the strength of feeling that pervaded the breasts of either part}', but not a 44 OUR CHAMPION. ^vorcl was exchanged between us. Our hut was first completed, when our champion clambered aloft, and crowed defiance ; three times he crowed (aloud), but no responding voice was heard from the opposite camp. This act was altogether volun- tary on the part of our man, but it did not displease us, as the result convinced us that we stood on safe ground, should any violence be attempted. Our opponents were enraged at the want of spirit evinced by their men, and deter- mined on being revenged upon us in a manner that showed the virulence of their animosity. A num- ber of lumber men were making up their rafts within a short distance of us at the time, who were for the most part natives of the Emerald Isle. Paddy's "knocking down for love" is proverbial. Our opponents immediately sent them word that the Hudson's Bay Company had brought up a bull^ from Montreal who defied " the whole of the Grand River." " By my faith, does he thin,'^ said Pat; " let us have a look at him, any how." On the succeeding evening (after the occurrence of the circumstance above related) we were sur- A DISPUTE. 45 prised to see the number of canoes that arrived at the portage from all directions. The crew of each canoe as they landed went direct to our opponents, where they appeared to be liberally supplied with spirits. Their object was sufficiently evident, as the potent agent they had employed, in a short time, produced the desired effect. Oaths and ex- ecrations were heard amid crowing and yelling. Our Canadians all took to their heels, except our noble game-cock and two others; and now the drama opened. A respectable good looking fellow stept out from the crowd, accompanied by another man, a Canadian, and advancing to our champion, asked him " if he would not sell his feathers " (his hat being decorated with them). It is unneces- sary to state the reply. An altercation ensued, and blows would undoubtedly have succeeded, had I not then interfered. I invited the stranger to my tent, and having opened my garde de vin, pro- duced some of the good things it contained. A little conversation with my guest, proved him to be a shrewd sensible man ; and when I explained the nature of our dispute with our rivals, he com- c 3 46 TUE OPPOSITION DEFEATED. prehended in an instant the object they had in view in circulating the reports which induced him and others to assemble at the portage. The con- sanguinity of the sons of Erin and Caledonia was next touched upon, and the point settled to our mutual satisfaction ; in short, my brother Celt and I parted as good friends as half-an-hour's acquaint- ance and a bottle of wine could make us. At the conclusion of our interview he departed, and meeting our champion, cordially shook him by the hand ; then addressing his companions, remarked, " This, my lads, is a quarrel between the traders, in which we have no right to interfere at all ; for my own part, I am very much obliged to the jintlemin on both sides o' the road, for traiting me so jintaily ; but Jack Hall shall not be made a tool of by anybody whatsumdever." Jack Hall embarked with his crew, and was soon afterwards followed by the others. Both parties were thus again in their previous positions, and a little tact saved us from the fatal conse- quences that might have ensued, had their vil- lainous design proved successful. The daring ARRIVAL OF INDIA^•S. 47 insult was keenly felt by us all, and accordingly one of our trio despatched a message to the only individual of the opposite party who had any pre- tension to the title of gentleman, soliciting the pleasure of his company to take the air next morning. The invitation was accepted. Our party kept the appointment, and remained for two hours on the ground, awaiting the arrival of their friends; but the friends allowed them the sole enjoyment of the morning air. A few days afterwards the natives began to make their appearance, and scenes of a revolting nature were of frequent occurrence. Rum and brandy flowed in streams, and dollars were scat- tered about as if they had been of no greater value than pebbles on the beach. The expenses incurred by both parties were very gi-eat ; but while this lavish expenditm-e seriously affected the resources of the petty traders, the coffers of the Company were too liberally filled to be sensibly diminished by such outlay. Nevertheless, the natives would not dispose of their furs until they reached the village. 48 TREACHERY OF AN IROQUOIS. We remained at the portage until the 7th of June, when the natives having all passed, we embarked, and arrived at the lake on the 10th, where we were shocked to learn that our Bour- geois* had had a very narrow escape from the treachery of an Iroquois during our absence, the particulars of which were thus related to us. Mr. Fisher had advanced a sum to this scoundrel two years before, and seeing him pass liis door the ensuing spring after the debt had been contracted, with his furs, which he carried to our opponents, he watched his return, and calling him in, demanded payment; an insolent reply was the return for his kindness, which so much ex- asperated him, that he kicked him out in presence of several other Indians. The insult was not for- gotten. Soon after his arrival this spring, he sent for Mr. Fisher, who complied with the invitation, expecting payment of his debt. The moment he entered the house, however, he discovered that he had been inveigled. The Indian stood before * Tlie term Bourgeois is used for Master tbrougliout the Indian country. TREACHEUY OF AN IROQUOIS. 49 him, his face painted, and a pistol in his hand, which he presented. In an instant Mr. Fisher bared his breast, and staring his enemy fiercely in the face, exclaimed, " Fire, you black dog ! What ! did you imagine you had sent for an old woman ?" Mr. Fisher's knowledge of the Indian character saved his life ; had he betrayed the slightest symptom of fear, he was a dead man ; but the undaunted attitude he assumed staggered the resolution of the savage ; a new bias seemed to operate on his mind, probably through a feeling of respect for the determined courage displayed by his intended victim. He could not brace his nerves to a second effort ; his hand dropped list- lessly by his side ; his gaze was fixed on Mr. Fisher for a moment; then dashing the pistol violently on the ground, he beckoned him to withdraw.* Immediately after the close of the spring trade, the most formidable of our opponents hinted that * At that period some of the Iroquois made good hunts, trapping beaver along the main rivers and outskirts of the Algonquin lands. 50 FIERCE, YET LUDICROUS NATURE he might be induced to quit the field ; a negotia- tion was accordingly opened with him, which soon terminated in a favourable issue, on very advan- tageous terms to the retiring party. The solitary being who remained behind was thus thrown upon his own resources, and his efforts to maintain the unequal contest unaided, were so feeble and ineffectual, that the Company might be said to hold a monopoly of the fur-trade at this period ; but thereafter they paid clearly for their triumph, as further sacrifices had yet to be made ere they could enjoy it in quiet. A Canadian merchant, in easy circumstances, who dwelt opposite to the village, having learned the advantageous terms obtained by the petty traders from the Company, addressed a very polite note to Mr. Fisher, stating his intention to try his fortune as a trader, but that he would have no objection to postpone the attempt for five years, provided the Company would allow him 150/. per annum, during that period. The proposal was submitted to Mr. Thane, who laconically replied, *' Let him do his worst, and be . . . ." OF THE OPPOSITION. 51 Accordingly, St. Julien immediately commenced operations. He hired one end of an Indian house, which he fitted up as a trader's shop : Fisher hired the other end. St. Julien then removed to another: Fisher occupied the other end of that house also. St. Julien next rented a icJiole house : Fisher purchased a house, placed it upon rollers, and wheeled it directly in front of that of his rival, rearwards, scarcely leaving sufficient room for one person to pass between the premises. This caused great amusement to the Indians; not so to St. Julien, who had not anticipated so excessive a desire on the part of any of the Company's officers for so close an intimacy ; and at the end of six weeks he took his departure without pay or pen- sion from the Company. In the course of this summer our Algonquins received a visit from a party of Ottawas, (this tribe occupies the hunting grounds in the vicinity of Michimmakina or Makinaw, and speaks the Sauteaux language,) which created considerable alarm in the village, as they came for the purpose of demanding satisfaction for the murder of one UNIVERSITY OF lUINOlS UBRARY 52 MURDER BY AN ALGONQUIN. of their tribe, which had been perpetrated two years before by an Algonquin. The details of the atrocious deed were communicated to me as follows. The Ottawas and Algonquins, with their families, were proceeding in company to the Lake, in the spring of 1819, when being encamped in the neighbourhood of the long Sault rapid, the Algonquin sprang upon his unsuspecting com- panion, and cleft his skull with his tomahawk, without the least apparent provocation ; then dragging the body to the water's edge, he cut it up into small pieces, and threw them in. He next despatched the woman, and mutilated her body in the same savage manner, having first committed the most horrible barbarity on her person ; (the recital of which curdled my blood; and yet our Christianized (?) Algonquins laughed heartily on hearing it!) The demon in human form, with the yet reeking tomahawk raised over the heads of his wife and children, made them swear that they would never divulge the horrid deed ; but they did disclose it ; and it was from the wife the tale of horror was elicited. The object of the STATE OF THE COMPANY'S ACCOUXTS. 53 Ottawas was not revenge. Compensation to the full estimated value of the lives of a man and woman was all they demanded; and that they received to an amount that far exceeded their expectations. Had the murderer been in the village the chiefs declared they would have given him up ; but they had already delivered him over to the proper authorities, and he was then in prison waiting his sentence. It has been already mentioned, that the Com- pany had assumed the outstanding debts of the petty traders. When the accounts were closed this autumn, the aggregate amount of liabilities due to the Company exhibited the enormous sum of seventy-two thousand dollars — not a shilling of that sum has ever been repaid. Soon after the departure of the natives for the interior, I was notified of my appointment to the charge of the Chats post. My friend Mac also received marching orders ; and after parting with him I took leave of the Lake of Two Mountains on the ^Oth of August. 54 ARRIVAL AT THE CHATS. CHAPTER V. AKRIVAL AT THE CHATS — I^'STALLED AS BOUKGEOIS — FIRST TRADING EXCURSION — BIVOUAC IN THE WOODS — INDIAN BARBARITY. I ARRIVED at the Chats on the 26th of August, 1822. As we approached the establishment, t]:e crew struck up a song which soon attracted the notice of its only inmate ; a tall gaunt figure, who was observed moving toward the landing-place, where it remained stationary. With the exception of this solitary being, no sign of animation was per- ceptible. We landed, and found the recluse to be the gentleman whom I was to succeed. The men belonging to the post were at the time employed elsewhere ; fire-arms were therefore discharged, to INSTALLED AS BOURGEOIS. 55 summon them to return. An old interpreter and two men, constituting the force at this station, soon made their appearance. Such an uncommon event as an arrival seemed to produce an exhila- rating effect upon them. Immediately after my landing the charge was made over to me ; and on the following day my predecessor, Mr. Macdonald, took his departure, leaving me to the fellowship of my own musings, which for a time assumed but sombre hues; but I was then young, and the hopes and aspirations of an ardent mind threw a halo around the gloomy path that lay before me, and resting upon the bright spots that glimmered in the distant background, concealed from my view the toils and miseries I had to experience in the intermediate passage. On assuming the responsibility of this post, I found myself in a position which gratified my vanity. I was Bourgeois of the Chats ; had an in- terpreter and two men subject to my orders ; and could make such arrangements as my own inclina- tions dictated, without the surveillance of a supe- rior. I was, in fact, master of my own time and 56 FIRST TRADING EXCURSION. of my own actions ; could fiddle when I pleased, and dance when I had a mind with my own shadow ; no person here dared to question my actions. About the beginning of September the natives began to pass for the interior, and to my great surprise appeared to be in want of further sup- plies, although they had left the Lake amply provided with everything necessary. Some of them took advances here again to a considerable amount. I learned from them that a petty tradci who had just then sprung into existence, intended to establish a couple of posts in the interior of the district — (this post being subject to the Lake of Two Mountains.) This was. rather an unpleasant piece of intelligence, and quite unexpected by my superiors or myself. I despatched a messenger to head-quarters to give the alarm, and was soon joined by a reinforcement of men conducted by a junior clerk and an interpreter. Preparations were then made to follow up this new competitor the moment he appeared. He did not allow us to remain long in suspense. A few days after- wards his party was observed passing in two FIRST TRADING EXCURSION. 57 canoes ; our people were immediately in their wake, and I remained with but one man and the old interpreter during the winter. I had only two Indian hunters to attend to ; one in the im- mediate vicinity of the post, the other about three days' journey distant. Late in autumn I was gra- tified by a visit from the superintendent of the district, who expressed himself perfectly satisfied with my arrangements. As soon as the river set fast with ice, I resolved on paying a visit to my more remote customer, and assumed the snow- shoes for the first time. I set out with my only man, leaving the old interpreter sole occupier of the post. My man had visited the Indian on several occasions during the previous winter, and told me that he usually halted at a Chantier,* on the way to his lodge. "We arrived late in the evening at the locality in question, and finding a quantity of timber collected on the ice, con- cluded that the shanty must be close at hand. "We accordingly followed the lumber-track until we * The hut used by the lumbermen, and the root of the well-known "shanty." 58 BIVOUAC IN THE WOODS. reached the hat which had formerly afforded such comfortable accommodation to my companion. Great was our disappointment, however, to find it now tenantless, and almost buried in snow. I had made an extraordinary effort to reach the spot in the hope of procuring good quarters for the night, and was now so completely exhausted by fatigue that I could proceed no further. The niffht was dark, and to make our situation as cheerless as possible, it was discovered that my companion had left his " fire-works " behind — a proof of his inexperience. Under these circum- stances our preparations were necessarily few. Having laid a few boughs of pine upon the snow, we wrapped ourselves up in our blankets, and lay down together. I passed the night without much rest ; but my attendant — a hardy Canadian — kept the wild beasts at bay by his deep snoring, until dawn. I found myself completely benumbed with cold ; a smart walk, however, soon put the blood in circulation, and ere long we entered a shanty where we experienced the usual hospi- tality of these generous folks. Here we borrowed A WINTER ENCAMPMENT. 59 a " smoking-bag," containing a steel, flint, and tinder. With the aid of these desiderata in the appointments of a vojageur, we iiad a comfortable encampment on the following night. The mode of constructing a winter encampment is simply this : — you measure with your eye the extent of ground you require for your purpose, then taking off your snow-shoes, use them as shovels to clear away the snow. This operation over, the finer branches of the balsam tree are laid upon the ground to a certain depth ; then logs of dry wood are placed at right angles to .the feet at a proper distance, and ignited by means of the " fire-works " alluded to. In such an encampment as this, after a plentiful supper of half-cooked peas and Indian corn — the inland travelling fare of the Montreal department — and a day's hard walking, one enjoys a repose to which the voluptuary reclining on his bed of down is a perfect stranger. We reached our destination on the following day about noon, where we found but little to recompense us for our journey. Both our own 60 RESULTS OF OPPOSITION. people from the outpost and our opponents had already traded all the furs the Indian had to dis- pose of, although his supplies at the Lake of Two Mountains and at my post amounted to a sum that would have required his utmost exertions to pay. We remained that night at his lodge, and very early on the succeeding morning, started on our return. With the exception of a couple of trips I made to the inland posts, nothing disturbed the monotony of my avocations during the remain- ing part of the winter. Petty traders swarmed all over the country ; the posts which were established in the interior to cope with them traded freely with the natives, in order to secure their furs from competitors. Thus the immense sacrifices which the Company had made to obtain a monopoly, as they imagined, yielded them no advantage what- ever ; and repeated defalcations on the part of the natives, induced them to curtail their advances at their principal station. The natives, however, found no difficulty in procuring their requisites in exchange for their furs, either from the posts belonging to the Company in the interior, or from Indian's dishonesty. 61 the opposition ; for they were, with few excep- tions, of the same character as the individual already alluded to. The Indian whom I mentioned as residinff in the neighbourhood of the establishment arrived, late in autumn, from the Lake, where he could not obtain a charge of ammunition on credit. I supplied all his wants liberally, knowing him to be a good hunter, though a notorious rogue ; and he set out for his hunting grounds, to all appear- ance well pleased. In the course of the winter a Yankee adventurer opened a *' grog shop," within a short distance of the depot, who appeared to have no objection to a beaver's skin in exchange for his commodities. My Indian debtor returned in the month of March, with a tolerable " hunt," and pitched his tent midway between the post and my Yankee neigh- bour. I called upon the Indian immediately for payment, which he told me I should receive no the morrow. I went accordingly at the time appointed, and was annoyed to find that he had already disposed of a part of his furs for the Yau- VOL. I. D 62 Indian's furs seized. kee's whiskey ; and I therefore demanded payment j I in a tone of voice which clearly indicated that I | was in earnest. To-morrow was mentioned again ; ] but having come with the determination of being satisfied on the spot, I seized, without further 1 ceremony, what furs remained, and throwing them i out of the wigwam to my man, who was placed there to receive them, I remained within, to bear the brunt of the Indian's resentment, should he show any, until my man had secured the prize. I was well i prepared to defend myself, in case of any violence I being offered. Nothing of the kind was attempted, j however ; and I took my leave, after sustaining a j I volley of abuse, which did me no harm. The ' Indian paid me a visit next morning, for the pur- j pose of settling accounts, a small balance being j due to him, which, at his own request, was paid j in rum. I soon after received another visit, for nectar, on credit ; this request I granted. The visits, however, were repeated so often for the same purpose, that I at length found it advisable to give a denial, by proxy, not wishing to part on bad terms with him, if possible, on account of the INDIAN BARBARITY. 63 spring hunt. I absented myself from the house, having instructed my interpreter how to act. I took my station in a small grove of pines, close by, watching for the appointed signal to apprise me of the departure of the Indian. My attention was suddenly arrested by most doleful cries at the house ; and presently the voice of my interpreter was heard, calling me loudly by name. I ran at the top of my speed, and arrived just in time to save the life of a poor old woman, who had been making sugar in my neighbourhood. I found the father and two sons, both approaching manhood, in a complete state of nudity, dancing round the body of their victim (to all appearance dead), their bodies besmeared with blood, and exulting in the barbarous deed they had committed. My inter- preter informed me, that as soon as they observed the old woman approaching the house, the Chris- tian father told his sons that now was the time to take revenge for the death of their brother, whose life had been destroyed by this woman's " bad medicine." We drove the wretches away, and carried the miserable woman into the house ; and so D 2 64 INDIAN BARBARITY. dreadfully bruised and mangled were her head and face, that not the least trace of her features could be distinguished. At the end of a month she recovered sufficiently to crawl about. Her son passed in the spring, with an excellent hunt. When I related to him the manner his mother had been treated by the Indians, and the care I had taken of her, he coolly replied that he was sure they were bad Indians. " It was very charitable of you," said he, " to have taken so much care of the old woman. Come to my wigwam next winter, and I shall trade with you, and treat you well." In the meantime every skin he had went to our oppo- nents, although he was deeply indebted to the Company. EMBARK FOR FORT COULONGE. 65 CHAPTER VI. TRIP TO rORT COULONGE— MR. GODIN — NATIVES. A LARGE canoe arrived from Montreal about the latter end of June, by which I received orders to proceed to Fort Coulonge, situated about eighty- miles higher up the Ottawa, to relieve the person then in charge of that post. I accordingly em- barked in the same canoe, accompanied by my young friend Mr. MacDougal, who joined me last autumn, and who kindly volunteered to pro- ceed along with me to my destination. This canoe was under the charge of people hired for the trip, and directed by the bowsman, or guide. I soon discovered that I was considered merely as a piece of live lumber on board. My companion and my- 66 A STORM. self were reduced to the necessity of cooking our own victuals, or of going without them. We pitched our tent as best we could, and packed it up in the morning without the slightest offer of assistance from the crew. No incident worthy of notice occurred until we reached the Grand Calumet Portage, the longest on the Ottawa River. The crew slept at the further end of the portage, whither the canoe and part of the cargo had been carried during the day, and we pitched our tent there also in the usual awkward manner. The weather was very fine in the evening, but soon after night- fall a tremendous storm burst upon us : our tent was blown about our ears in an instant. We en- deavoured to compose ourselves to rest under- neath, but found it impracticable. We then attempted to pitch it anew, but our strength and ingenuity were not sufficient for the purpose. We tried afterwards to find shelter under the canoe (the rain pouring in torrents), but the crew were already in possession, and so closely packed, that not an inch was unoccupied. Thus baffled on MR. GODIN. 67 every hand, we passed the night completely ex- posed to the " pelting of the pitiless storm," learning a lesson of practical philosophy which I have not yet forgotten. "We arrived at Fort Coulonge early the next day, when a portly old gentleman, bearing a paunch that might have done credit to an Edin- burgh baillie, came puffing down to the landing- place to receive us. We soon discovered that Mr. Godin was only " nominally " in charge of the establishment, for that his daughter, a stout, masculine - looking wench, full thirty summers blown, possessed what little authority was re- quired for the management of affairs. We arrived on Wednesday. The father pro- posed setting out for Montreal on Friday ; the daughter objected the ill luck of the day : it was finally determined that they should embark on Thursday, however late. The necessary prepara- tions were immediately commenced under her ladyship's superintendence, and being completed late in the evening, they embarked, leaving me perfectly alone. The contracts with the men had 68 AN UNCOMFORTABLE SITUATION. just expired, which I proposed to renew, but the answer from one and all was, " I shall follow my bourgeois." This was the result of the old gen- tleman's arrangements (having been ordered off contrary to his wishes), and which might have been anticipated by those who appointed me to the situation ; but it would have been derogatory to the exalted rank of their highnesses to bestow any consideration on such trivial matters as re- lated to the comfort or convenience of a paltry apprentice I Their neglect, however, might have been attended on this occasion with serious conse- quences to the Company's interests, as I had never seen any of the Indians of that quarter before, and knew very little of their mode of trading. It was a fortunate circumstance for myself that I understood the language sufficiently well to con- verse with the natives, otherwise my situation would have been disagreeable in the extreme. I remained alone until the latter end of July, when I was joined by an English lad, whom I induced by the promise of high wages to leave his former employers (lumbermen) and share my solitude. MR. GODIN. 69 The history of my predecessor being rather singular, a few words here regarding him may perhaps not be considered out of place. He commenced his career as a hired servant, or Voyageur, as they are termed in the country, and was thirty years of age before he knew a letter of the alphabet. Being a man possessed of strong natural parts, and great bodily strength withal, he soon distinguished himself as an under trader of uncommon tact, — his prowess as a pugilist also gave him a very decided advantage in the field of competition. Endowed with such quali- fications, his services were duly appreciated by the traders, and he knew full well how to turn them to his own advantage. He served all parties alike ; that is, he served each in turn, and cheated and deceived them all. After the organization of the North-West Company, he entered their service ; and returning to the same quarter, Temiscamingue, where he had wintered for his last employer, he passed the post unperceived, and falling in with a band of Indians, whom he himself had supplied the pre- D 3 70 TREACHERY OF NATIVES. ceding autumn, told them he still belonged to the same party, and traded all their furs on the spot. The North-West Company gave him charge of a post, when his subtle management soon cleared the country of opposition. The natives of Temiscamingue were in those times very treacherous, as they would be at this day, did they not dread the consequences ; several men had been murdered by them, and they at length became exceedingly bold and daring in deeds of violence. One example is sufficient : — Godin hap- pened, on one occasion, to remain at his post with only one man, who attended the nets, — fish being the staff of life in that quarter. Visiting them regularly every day to procure his own and his master's subsistence, his return Vas one morning delayed much beyond the usual time. Godin felt so anxious, that he determined on going to the fishery to learn the cause; and just as he had quitted the house with that inten- tion, he met an Indian who had been for some time encamped in the vicinity, and asked him — " What news ?" TREACUERY OF NATIVES. 71 " I have killed a white dog this morning," was the reply. "Indeed!" said Godin, feigning ignorance of the Indian's meaning : " Pray, to whom did he belong ? " " He was a stray dog, I believe." Conversing with him in this strain, he threw the Indian completely off his guard, while he ap- proached him until he was sufficiently near hira for his purpose, when, raising his powerful arm, he struck the savage a blow under the ear that felled him to the ground, — he fell to rise no more. The next moment, a couple of well-disposed Indians came to inform Godin of the murder of his man, which it appeared they could not pre- vent. " My children," said he, with the utmost composure, " the Master of life has punished your kinsman on the spot for taking the life of a wliite man ; he told me just now that he had killed a white dog, and had scarcely finished the sentence when he fell down dead at my feet. Feel his body, it must be still warm ; examine it, and satisfy yourselves that he has suffered no 72 MR. GODIN. violence from me, and you see that I have no weapons about me." Godin was soon afterwards removed to Fort Coulonge, and was allowed a high salary by the North-West Company. Here he learned to read and write, and married a fair countrywoman of his own, who resided the greater part of the time in Montreal, where, to make the gentleman's establishment complete, he had the good taste to introduce his mistress. A circumstance that presents his character in its true colours made his wife acquainted with his infidelity. Writing to both his ladies at the same time, he unwittingly addressed his mistress's letter to his wife, by which she learnt, with other matters, that a present of ten prime otters had been sent to her rival. The enraged wife carried the letter to Mr. Thane, from whom, however, she met with a very dif- ferent reception to what she had anticipated. After perusing the letter, he ordered her imme- diately out of his presence. " Begone, vile woman ! " he exclaimed : " What ! would you really wish to see your husband hanged?" MR. GODIN. 73 The Company were well aware of Godin's tricks, but winked at them on account of his valuable services. He was removed from Fort Coulonge in consequence of mismanagement, (occasioned by aberration of his mental faculties,) and was allowed by the Company to retire with a pension of 100/. per annum. The transcript of a public letter, addressed to Mr. Thane, will show his attainments in literature ; and with this I shall close my sketch of Mr. Godin : — " Mon^ Tane, " Cher Mon% " Vot letre ma te livie par Guiaume dean aisi qui le butin tout a bon ord le Shauvages on ben travaie set anne et bon aparans de bon retour St. anne Dieu merci je ne jami vu tant de mous- tique et de maragoen com il en a st anne je pens desend st anne ver le meme tan com I'amie pase. " Je sui, " Cher Mon% &c. " Joseph Godin." 74 NATIVES. The Indians attached to this post speak the Sauteux language, and are denominated " Tetes des Boules" by the French, and " Men of the "Woods" by the other Indians. Although so near to priests and ministers, they are still Pagans, but are never- theless a quiet harmless race, and excellent hunters. The greater part of them originally belonged to Temiscamingue, and were drawn to this quarter by Mr. Godin. A considerable num- ber of Algonquins also trade here, where they pass the greater part of their lives without visiting the Lake. The people appear to me to differ in no respect from their heathen brethren, save in the very negligent observance of certain external forms of worship, and in being more enlightened in the arts of deceiving and lying. About the middle of August, I was gratified by the arrival of Mr. Godin's interpreter, and three men, by whom I received letters from head-quar- ters, informing me that my neighbours of last winter intended to es<^ablish posts in this quarter also, and that I should soon be joined by a strong reinforcement of men, to enable me to cope sue- FEELING TOWARDS OPPONENTS. 75 cessfully with them. We complain of solitude ill the Indian forests, yet the vicinity of such a neighbour is considered the greatest evil ; and instead of cherishing the feelings enjoined in the Decalogue, one hates his neighbour as the d 1, and employs every means to get rid of him. The natives having been all supplied, had taken their departure for their hunting-grounds by the latter end of August ; I then commenced making the arrangements requisite for the coming contest. 76 SUPERSEDED BY MR. SIVIRIGHT. CHAPTER VII. SUPERSEDED — PEELINGS ON THE OCCASION — MOKE OPPOSITION — ^. MACDONELL — TACTICS — MELANCHOLY DEATH [ OP AN INDIAN. About the middle of September, I observed a north canoe paddling in for the landing-place, having a gentleman passenger on board, who immediately on landing ordered his servant to carry his baggage up to the Fort. On his entering the house, the apparent mystery w^as soon un- folded. Mr. Siviright handed me a letter from Mr. Thane, conveying the agreeable intelligence of my being superseded by the bearer, — command- ing me to obey him as my bourgeois, and to con- duct myself in such a manner as to give Mr. S. FEELINGS ON THE OCCASION. 77 every satisfaction. The latter injunction I felt very little inclination to comply with at the time ; in fact, the slight put upon me caused my northern blood to rise to fever heat; and in this excited frame of mind I sat down to reply to the " great man's" communication, in which I gave vent to my injured feelings in very plain language. What he may have thought of the epistle, I know not, as he never deigned to reply. It was incon- siderate in me, however, to have so acted ; but prudence had not yet assumed her due influence over me. Mr. S. had been at that time twenty -four 3'ears in the service, I only three; he had there- fore a superior claim to any I could advance : but why not inform me at once that my appoint- ment to the charge was merely temporary ? This double dealing manifested a distrust of me, for which no cause could possibly be assigned : that excited my resentment, and not the circumstance of being superseded. Towards the latter end of the month of Sep- tember, our opponents made their appearance in 78 MORE OPPOSITION. three small canoes, while I embarked in pursuit with the same number. One of mj north canoes was in charge of three men, the others contained two, counting myself as a man. Having become rather expert as an amateur voyageur, I con- sidered myself capable of undertaking the real duty now, and accordingly volunteered my ser- vices as steersman, as no additional hand could be spared, without great inconvenience to my bourgeois. A little experience convinced me, however, that my zeal exceeded my ability. My opponent was in a light canoe, and moved about with a celerity that my utmost exertions could not cope with ; for as soon as an Indian canoe appeared, he paddled off for it ; I of course attempted to compete, but generally arrived just in time to find that he had already concluded his transaction with the hunters. We reached Black River on the third day from Fort Coulonge, where it appeared my opponent's intention to remain for some time, to await the arrival of certain Indians who were expected down by that river. I determined therefore to INCREASING PERPLEXITY. 79 despatch a canoe to Fort Coulonge, to acquaint Mr. S. with the particulars above related ; and sent back therewith such of the property as I thought could be dispensed with at the time, as it was quite evident we could not keep up with our opponent in the portages with such a quantity of baggage as we then had, and we could obtain no information that could be de- pended upon as to their ultimate destination — it might be at the distance of a hundred miles, or only ten. My messengers were but two days absent; and I was not a little mortified to learn from them, that Mr. S., instead of attending to my suggestions, not only returned all the property I had sent, but nearly an equal quantity in addition. He wrote me his reasons for doing so ; but I felt assured that he had no other object in view than to show me that he was the superior, I the subordinate ; and I resolved from that moment, to perform no more extra duty. After continuing a fortnight at our encampment, we again embarked, when I ordered the third man 80 VISIT TO FORT COULONGE. in the large canoe into my own, and tossing my paddle down stream, took my station in the middle of my canoe. A few hours' paddling brought us to an old shanty in the island of Alluraette, where, to my great joy, I perceived my opponent intended to fix his winter quarters. We accordingly commenced erecting a couple of huts, a store, and dwelling-house, in close proxi- mity to him. This being the best season of the year for the natives to hunt, it was the interest of all parties not to molest them ; and we therefore employed our time in preparing suitable accom- modation for the winter. On the completion of our arrangements, I set out, about the beginning of October, on a visit to Fort Coulonge ; and on the day after my arrival there we observed a north canoe paddling slowly past, and distinguished the features of every indi- vidual on board through a telescope, but could recognise no one : however, to clear up the doubt, the interpreter was cent after them in a small canoe, with instructions to make a close scrutiny. They no sooner discovered that he was in pursuit, MR. M. MACDONELL. 81 than they ceased paddling. After a long confabu- lation he learned that they were proceeding to Sault St. Marie, where they intended to settle. I passed two days with my bourgeois, and returned home, where we — our opponents and ourselves — watched each other's movements, being our only occupation until the end of November, when Mr. S. paid me a visit, which proved anything but gratifying. He (Mr. S.) had learned from some lumber- men, that the " Settlers for the Sault Ste. Marie" were an opposition party conducted by Mr. JEneas Macdonell, my predecessor at the Chats j and that he purposed to settle for the winter near Lac des Allumettes. This gentleman's engagement had been cancelled at the earnest solicitation of his father, whom death had lately deprived of another son ; and who now, to requite the favour granted to him by the Company, sent this son in opposition ! We had barely a suf- ficient number of men to perform the necessary duties of the two posts already established ; we were, therefore, completely at a loss to meet this 82 MR. JE. MACDONELL. emergency. Mr. S. could spare one man only from his own post, whom he brought up to me. I embarked early next morning with one of my own men, in search of the " settler." On reaching Lac des AUumettes on the same evening, our attention was arrested by the voices of Indians, singing on an island. We immediately pulled in for the spot, and found a large camp of Algonquins, men, women and children, all in a state of intoxication ; from whom I learned, though with much difficulty, the whereabouts of Macdonell's retreat. Quitting this disgusting scene as speedily as possible, we resumed our paddles, and soon afterwards discovered the oppo- sition post. When we landed, my quondam mess- mate advanced to receive me, and, after a cordial shake of the hand, kindly invited me to pass the night with him. I gladly accepted the offer ; and was not a little concerned to perceive that his preparations for winter were already complete; a circumstance which gave him a decided ad- vantage. Happening in the course of conver- sation to express my surprise at seeing him in TACTICS. 83 the character of an opponent, he told me that nothing could be farther from his intention than to oppose the Company. He came to this quarter for the purpose of preparing timber for the Quebec market ; in provincial phrase, " to make a shanty." But I knew well enough his designs. I started early next morning on my return, and immediately thereafter prepared a small out- fit ; and re-embarked next evening with five men in two canoes, leaving the interpreter in charge of the post, with one man to assist him. Having experienced verj- bad weather on our way, and consequently some delay, we did not reach our new station until late in the evening of the fourth day. I immediately sent back two of the men to the interpreter, and retained three with myself, which placed me on a par with my opponent in point of numbers. But he was now ready for active operations, while I had every thing to prepare. I resolved, however, to forego every personal comfort and convenience rather than allow him to enjoy any advantage over me. I accordingly assisted in erecting a small hut, 84 TACTICS. which I intended should serve for dwelling-house for myself and men, trading-shop, store and all. A couple of days after our arrival, Macdonell was seen walking down to the water's edge with a very cautious step, accompanied by one of his men, bearing his canoe, basket fashion, on one arm, and a large bundle on the other, from which, notwithstanding his steady pace, the jumbling sound of liquor was distinctly heard. "Holla, Mac, where are you going with your basket?" *' Why, I am going across to Herd's shanty, to get my axes ground." " My dear fellow, how can you think of risking yourself in such a gimcrack contrivance as that ? I must absolutely send a couple of my men along with you to see no accident happens to you." Having a parcel of goods ready for emergencies of this kind, my men started in a moment, and embarked at the same time as my neighbour. I continued with my only man completing my castle ; but the earth being already hard frozen, no clay could be obtained for the purpose of opponent's return. 85 plastering; the interstices between the logs were therefore caulked with moss ; a large aperture being left in the roof to serve the double purpose of chimney. and window. I had formerly seen houses so constructed — somewhere — but let no one dare to imagine that I allude to " my own, my native land." Stones were piled up against the logs, to protect them from the fire. The timber required for floor, door, and beds, was all prepared with the axe ; our building being thus rendered habitable without even going to the extent of Lycurgus' frugal laws, for the axe was our only implement. My opponent returned in four days, having been at an Indian camp, not far distant, where both he and our people traded a considerable quantity of furs. This was our only trip by open water. As soon as the river became ice- bound, we were again in motion. To enter into minute details of our various movements would but prove tedious ; I shall therefore present a general sketch of our mode of VOL. I. E 86 THE ALGONQUINS. life at this period, and such occurrences as I may consider worthy of note. Macdonell had chosen his situation with great judgment. The majority of the Algonquins take their start from the Grand River at this place for their hunting-grounds. Some of them not being more than a day's journey distant from us, the joyful intelligence soon spread amongst them that an opposition party had been established in their neighbourhood ; they accordingly flocked about us as soon as travelling became practicable on the ice, and generally brought with them the means of ensuring a friendly reception. One party came in at this early season with all their fall hunts, which they bartered for liquors and provisions, and encamped close by, enjoying themselves, until an event occurred that alarmed them so much, (being with some reason considered by them as a pmiishment for the wicked life they had led,) that with the utmost precipitation they struck their camp. I was joined early in the month of January by VISIT TO AN ALGONQUIN CHIEF. 87 a party of men and a clerk, whom Mr. S. had ordered, or rather " requested," from Montreal ; and having, on the day of their arrival, received an invitation from one of our Algonquin chiefs to pay him a trading visit, I started next day, leaving Mr. Lane in charge, accompanied by two men, and reached the chiefs wigwam late in the evening. As soon as I was seated, he asked me if I had not met the Matawin Indians. On my replying in the negative, he informed me that they had passed his place early in the morning, loaded with furs, and that they expressed their intention of proceeding to the post before they halted. These Indians had all been supplied by myself in autumn to a large amount ; so that the intelligence acted on my nerves like an electric shock. I felt much fatigued on entering the lodge, but I now sprung to my feet, as fresh for the journey as when I had commenced it ; and ordering one of my men to return with me, left the other, an experienced hand, to manage affairs with the chief. e2 88 MELANCHOLY DEATH I arrived at my post about two next morning, when I found the Indians, some at our hut, some at our opponent's, all of them approaching the climax of Indian happiness, and Mr. Lane in a state of mind bordering on distraction. Neither he nor any of the men had ever seen any of these Indians before, nor did they understand a word of the language. The Indians were honest enough, however, to give him their furs in charge till my return; reserving only a small quantity to dispose of at discretion. My arrival was soon announced at my neighbour's, and brought the whole bevy about me in an instant, only one individual remaining behind. On inquiring into the cause of his absence, his companions replied that he had fallen asleep immediately after he had supped, and that they did not wish to dis- turb him. A few hours afterwards I was not a little surprised to see my neighbour entering our hut hurriedly, who addressed me thus : — " My dear Mac, it is true we are in opposition. OF AN INDIAN. 89 but no enmity exists between us. A dreadful misfortune happened in my house last night. — Come and see ! " I instantly complied with his request ; pro- ceeded to his hut, and saw the Indian who was said to be asleep, with his eyes closed — for ever ; a sad spectacle, for it was evident that the death of the poor wretch had been caused by intempe- rance ; he was found in the morning lying on Ids face, and his body already stiff. We were both ahke involved in the same awful responsi- bility, for the Indians drank as much at one house as the other, though his death occurred at the establishment of the other party. The Company only permit the sale of liquors to the natives when the presence of opponents renders it an indispensable article of trade, as it is by this unhallowed traffic that the petty traders realize their greatest profit. Yet this plea of necessity, however satisfactory it may appear in a certain quarter, will not, I feel assured, be accepted in our vindication by the world, nor hereafter in our justification at that tribunal where worldly con- 90 MODE OF LIFE siderations have no influence. Information soon reached the camp of the calamity that had hap- pened, which promptly silenced the clamorous mirth that prevailed ; and the voice of mourning succeeded — the Indians being all in good crying trim, that is, intoxicated; for I have never seen an Indian shed a tear when sober. No more liquor was traded ; the relatives of the deceased departed with the body to the Lake of Two Mountains, and the other Indians started for their hunting-grounds — thus granting us a short respite from the arduous duties in which we had been engaged. While the Indians remained about us we never enjoyed a moment's refreshing rest, our hut being crowded with them night and day. It was at times with difficulty we could prepare our victuals, or, when cooked, command sufficient time to partake of a hasty meal, in the midst of the *' living mass " that environed us. All this was extremely annoying ; but other comforts must be added ere this picture of the life we then led is complete. The motions of our opponents must needs be attended to, at dawn of day ; each morn- AT THIS PERIOD. 91 ing every path was carefully examined, to ascer- tain that no one had started during night : these precautions were also punctually taken by our op- ponents; and every stratagem that could be devised to elude each other's vigilance put in practice, it being the " interest " of each party to reach the Indians alone. 92 ACTIVITY OF CHAPTER VIII. ACTIVITY OF OUR OPPONENTS— VIOLENT CONDUCT OF AN INDIAN — NAUBOW ESCAPE — ARTIFICE — TRIP TO INDIAN'S LODGE — STUPIDITY OF INTERPRETER. When we discovered that our opponents had outwitted us, we would despatch messengers in pursuit ; and I need scarcely add, the same means were resorted to by our neighbours, when inquisi- tive about our movements. We had now the ad- vantage in point of numbers, being nearly two to one ; yet it so happened that we seldom could per- form a trip unattended; very frequently by a single man against two or three — still he got his share ; for the system of trade in this quarter does not allow violent means being employed to obtain OUR OPPONENTS. 93 possession of the products of the hunt. The mode of procedure is this : — On entering the lodge of an Indian, you present him with a small keg of nectar, as a propitiatory offering; then, in sup- pliant tones, request payment of the debt he may owe you, which he probably defers to a future day — the day of judgment. If your opponent be present, you dare not open your lips in objection to the delay ; for you may offend his dignity, and consequently lose all his furs. This you are aware of, and accordingly proceed to untie your pack, and exposing its contents to view, solicit him to give, at least, the preference in trade. Your op- ponent, on the other side of the fire-place, having also poured out his libation, imitates your example in every respect ; and most probably he may secure the wife, while you engage the husband as cus- tomers. A few weeks elapsed without the arrival of any hunters, and we were beginning to recover from the effects of our late fatigues, when a numerous band arrived from a considerable distance, and encamped on the same spot that had been e3 94 VIOLENT CONDUCT occupied by those lately noticed, and the same riotous scenes were again enacted, although these new comers were fully aware of the misfortune that had already occurred in consequence of similar disgusting intemperance. Among this band was a son of the principal sachem of the Algonquins, who was acknowledged heir apparent to his dad's vermin, and who as- sumed the airs of a man of great consequence, in virtue of his prospective dignity. The father bore a respectable character ; the son was a sot. In consideration of his furs, however, I paid him some little attentions, though much against my inclination. He came one evening reeling into our hut, more than " half-seas over," having been thus far advanced on his voyage to Elysium through the insinuating influences of my oppo- nent's " fire-water;" and seating himself on a three- legged stool, close to the fire-place, he soon began to nod ; then, losing his equilibrium, ultimately fell at full length on the floor. I could not suppress a smile at sight of his copper highness's prostrate position, when springing up in a furious passion, he OF AN INDIAN. 95 seized an axe, and proceeded to demolish the seat. I wrested the axe from his grasp, and reprimanded him sharply for his insolence. This exasperated him to the utmost : he swore I was in league with the stool to insult him ; but that he should be revenged on us both before morning. Uttering these menaces, he set out for the camp. It so happened that a strong party of men arrived on that evening from Fort Coulonge with supplies, and were huddled together with myself and my men, all under the same roof. The greater part of them lay down to rest ; but a few still con- tinued the vigil, indulging in the favourite luxury of smoking, and chatting about the enjoyments of " Mont-rial," — when, all of a sudden, the dread- inspiring war-whoop echoed through our little hut ; the next instant the door flew off its wooden hinges, and fell with a crash on the floor, ex- hibiting to view the person of the Indian, standing on the threshold, holding a double-barrelled gun in his hand, with blackened face and his eyes flashing fire. The men had now all started to their feet, as 9e6^ narrow escape, well as myself. The moment the eyes of the savage fell upon me, in the midst of the crowd, he brought the piece to bear upon me, or at least attempted to do so ; but I sprang upon him with a bound, and beat the muzzle down ; instantly the discharge followed : we then struggled for the possession of the gun, which I quickly wrested from his grasp ; and applying the butt end of it " gently " to his ear, laid him sprawling at my feet. On the discharge of the gun, I heard a voice calling out, " Mon Dieu !" and another, in a plain- tive tone, exclaiming, " Ah mon gar9on !" This was all I heard distinctly, when every voice joined in one cry, "Tueons le crapaud;" and presently the wretched Indian was kicked and cuffed by as many as could press round him. I called on them to desist — as well have spoken to the wind! — not a soul heeded my orders. At length one of them observed, " What occasion is there for more beat- ing of him — the black dog is dead enough." I looked about for the person whom I supposed to have been wounded, in vain — the whole mass NARROW ESCAPE. 97 was in motion. As soon as the tumult had sub- sided, however, I was glad to find that no one had received any serious injury ; the ball had grazed the thigh of a youth (who had arrived from Mont- real on a visit to his father), and lodged in a log of the building. The uproar occasioned by the men soon brought the Indians from the camp about the hut; and perceiving the apparently lifeless body stretched on the floor, they raised a yell that was reverberated by the surrounding hills. " Revenge ! revenge 1^' shouted every savage present. We mustered too strong, however, to permit their threats being put into execution without great hazard to themselves ; which fact pressed itself so powerfully on their minds, that for the present they discreetly vented their rage in abuse, and returned to their quarters. Satisfied by the feeble beating of the Indian's pulse that the vital spark was not extinct, I would not allow his kinsmen to remove him. Towards morning, recovering the use of speech, he inquired, in a voice scarcely audible, if he 98 ARTIFICE. " had shed the blood of a white man ? " I re- plied in the affirmative. " Then," said he, ** it would have been better had you despatched me at once, for I shall certainly be hanged." "With the view of pacifying the natives, I deemed it advisable to represent the young man's wound as very severe, and exercised my wits to give my representation the semblance of truth. I caused the young man's leg to be carefully ban- daged ; and, luckily, happening to have a fresh beaver in the house, the bandage was speedily besmeared with its blood, and the sound patient placed in bed, with instructions how to act his part. The Indians returned early on the follow- ing morning to inquire after their young chief, and being all perfectly sober, 1 descanted on the calamity of the ;previous night, describing my young man's case to be of such a serious nature as to induce the apprehension that death, or at least amputation of the limb, would be the con- sequence. In confirmation of the veracity of this statement, the afflicted leg was exposed to ARTIFICE. 99 view, while the patient's groans, which impressed on the minds of the bystanders the conviction of the pain he endured, prevented too close a scrutiny. "Alas!" they exclaimed, "it is all very true. Wagh ! this is indeed a sad business ; but the bad fire-water is to blame for it all." My stratagem had succeeded. Most of the natives acknowledged the justice of the punish- ment inflicted on their young chief, who had a brother present, however, whose sullen counte- nance betrayed the vindictive feelings in his breast, although he maintained a profound silence. The Fort Coulonge party started early next day, dragging their wounded companion on a sled, until they were out of sight. The relatives of the chief removed him to the camp, where he soon recovered. All the other Indians took their departure on the day following the affray. Shortly afterwards we were favoured with a visit from one whose hunting-grounds bordered on Rice Lake, a distance of 150 miles. I had 100 TRIP TO Indian's lodge. advanced this Indian all the supplies he required previous to Mr. Siviright's arrival, w^hich formed a pretty large amount. On examining the books, he animadverted upon the advance in terms of disapprobation, as being very imprudent to risk so much with an Indian. Most gratified and happy was I then to learn from the hunter that he had sufficient to liquidate the debt, and nearly as much more to trade. On making out his requisition for the latter purpose, it was found that four sleds at least would be required for the transport of all the property. To employ this number in one direction, however, would leave my neighbour at liberty to prosecute his views in another quarter without the necessary attendance. Still, I determined on risking a point, and securing at all hazards the valuable prize now oiFered. Obtaining a piece at the sacrifice of a paicn is considered good play. I proceeded accordingly with the Indian, ac- companied by four men, all with heavily laden sleds, with a pack of goods strapped over my shoulders weighing eighty pounds. Macdonell tRiP TO Indian's lodge. 101 did not follow, as the Indian gave him no en- couragement. We reached the Indian's lodge on the eleventh day from the post, when the abun- dant display of furs I beheld gave assurance of being amply remunerated for my trip. There were eleven packs of beaver piled upon a scaf- fold, besides some others, amounting to at least 600/. sterling. My hospitable customer detained me two days with him to partake of his good cheer. After settling accounts with him, to- gether with payment of the sum he owed, seven of the eleven packs were placed in my posses- sion, with which I started on my return, as proud as if I had been advanced to a share in the Company. We arrived at the post after an absence of twenty-five days ; and I was mortified to learn that my substitute had most stupidly bungled afiairs. A number of Indians had come in during my absence who were considered our best friends, and entering our hut without no- ticing our opponent, threw down their bundles, thereby clearly indicating, according to the usual 102 STUPIDITY OF custom, their intention of trading with one party only. On the other hand, should they leave a bundle at the door, it shows that they intend to divide its contents between two parties. With these particulars the interpreter's experience ren- dered him perfectly well acquainted, but he " cau'd na be fasht." It is customary when the Indians arrive, to present each with a pipe, a plug of tobacco, and, though last, not least in their estimation, ** a dram." The usual politessse was expected as a matter of course on this occasion. Seeing it was not forthcoming, the Indians demanded it. They were answered that no instructions had been left to that effect. *' Very well," said they, *' we shall soon find it elsewhere." And away they went. Macdonell received them with open arms- His reception not only induced them to trade every skin they had brought with them, but they also invited him to their camp ; and he consequently returned with his own and his men's sleds laden with furs. AN INTERPRETER. 103 I learnt all these particulars from himself ; for he and I were on as good terms as the nature of our occupation and our relative posi- tions would admit. I was, moreover, made ac- quainted through him that the Indians had expressed regret at my absence, and that an immense quantity of *' beaver " still remained at their camp. The spring was now fast approaching, the ice so bad as to render travelling dangerous, and but little snow on the ground. Still, I determined on paying a visit to these Indians, in order to retrieve the loss, if possible, sus- tained through the mismanagement of the in- terpreter. They might yet be in want of some supplies, poor fellows ; and we were all so anxious they should want for nothing we could spare for their accommodation; — we, therefore, good, humane souls, supplied them even at the hazard of our lives. 104 EXPEDITION TO CHAPTER IX. iEXPEDITION TO THE BEAH's DEN — PASSAGE THEOITGH THE SWAMP — CnNNING OF THE INDIANS — A SCUFFLE — ITS RESULTS. I SET off on this trip accompanied by another interpreter recently sent from Montreal, and one of my men, all with heavy burdens on our backs, the season not allowing the use of sledges. The second day we arrived at an Indian lodge about half-way to the Bear's Camp, where I learned that our opponent at the lower outpost had given our people the slip, but had been induced to return from the supposition that the extensive swamp in his way was impassable, being so inun- dated as to present the appearance of a lake. THE bear's den. 105 UrTed on, however, by youthful ardour and ambition, I determined to make at least one attempt ere I relinquished the enterprise ; although I acknowledge that the idea of overcoming dif- ficulties deemed insurmountable by an opponent, had as much to do with the resolution as the desire of doing my duty. Followed by my men, I accordingly plunged in, along the margin of the marsh ; the water reached our middle, but we found it to decrease in depth as we proceeded, though never below the knee. The water being very cold, our legs soon became quite benumbed ; nevertheless we moved onward. A certain passage in history occurred to my mind, which records the perseverance of a great man in a like situation. I too persevered, though with a different object in view. We all have our hobbies. I waded for furs, he for glory. We occasionally met with large trunks of trees as we proceeded, on which we mounted, and restored the circulation to our limbs by stamping upon them ; and thus, after five or six hours' painful exertion we reached dry 106 macdonell's departure. land, where a rousing fire and a hearty breakfast made us soon forget the miseries of the swamp. We reached the old hears den next evening, who, with his party, expressed much surprise to see me at such a season, and in recompense for my exertions, " traded" * every article of goods I had. There were here seven Indians, who, notwith- standing the frequent visits that had been paid them, in the course of the winter, by the people of the lower posts, had still upwards of forty packs of beaver. I got one pack, with which I set off on my return, pleased enough. We found the water in the swamp so far subsided as to permit an easy passage ; but the ice on the Grand River was so much worse that we were compelled to travel in the woods the greater part of the way. On arriving at the post, I found the opposition party in active preparation for their departure, Macdonell having received orders from his father * Anglice, — bought. ANOTHER OPPONENT. 107 to that effect. He embarked as soon as the navi- gation became practicable. Opponent as he was, I experienced some painful sensations at parting with him ; but soon had the consolation to see our opponent at the lower post occupy his place, — a measure which he ought to have adopted at a much earlier period, as even then it gave him a much better chance for a share of the spring trade than below, where he might be said to be placed between two fires. His removal, however, enabled us to concentrate our whole strength against him, so that he could not move a foot without a strong party at his heels. Thus cir- cumstanced, he chose to await the arrival of the natives quietly at his post, and we were happy to follow his example. The spring passed in a happy state of quiescence, which was scarcely disturbed by the arrival of the Indians, who, this year, had all taken a fancy to visit their ghostly fathers at the Lake,* and had, consequently, no time to spend with us ; some * Of the Two Mountains. 108 CUNNING OF THE INDIANS. intending to get married, some having children .to be baptized, and some carrying their dead, in order that the last sacred rites for the benefit of their departed spirits might be performed upon them. A few tetes de boules remained for some time, but under so strict a surveillance that they could seldom communicate with our opponents without being observed, and the discovery sub- jected them to some chastisement. I shall here relate a circumstance that occurred at this time, as an example of the cunning of the Indians in devising plans to evade us. Soon after their arrival, an old squaw brought to our house several casseaux * of sugar, and pointing out one, which she said was left open for immediate con- sumption, said she would return for it presently. She came next day and took the casseaux down to the tent of the Algonquin chief, who had passed the spring close by, and was now building a canoe, preparatory to his departure for the Lake. Soon after I went to have a chat with the chief^ * Packages made of bark. CUNNING OF THE INDIANS. 109 and found only his squaw at home. I observed the casseau, and asked for what purpose it was brought there. " Mine hostess " smiled, and an- swered, " You ought to know everything about it, when it has just quitted your house and passed the night with you. You whites pretend to be very cunning," she continued, *' but when an Indian, or even an old squaw tries to cheat you, your * white ' knowledge is no match for her. Now look into that casseau, Anamatik,* and see what is in it." I looked, and found, instead of sugar, a very valuable bundle of furs. " What do you think of the sugar ? " " Oh, it is very fine indeed; so much finer than any that I have, that I must take it along with me." " Your white neighbour will be angry with you, for it is left here for him." " Let him come to my house if he wants any." * My Indian cognomen. VOL. I. F 1 10 DEPARTURE. I set off with my prize, and as soon as it was deposited in a place of safety, took up a favour- able position to watcli my opponent, whom I soon perceived making for the tent with long and rapid strides. I could not help laughing heartily at the idea of his disappointment, when told what had happened. The " fair deceiver," to whom the bone of contention had belonged, soon made her appearance with downcast looks, humbly entreat- ing payment for her furs, and I paid her the full amount, after lecturing her severely on the treachery of her conduct in doing " what she willed with her ow7i.'" My opponent embarked on the 10th June, and I immediately followed him to the lower post, which he left in charge of one man, and then set off for Montreal. I kept him company as far as Fort Coulonge, where I met with a very friendly reception from my bourgeois, — the col- lected trade of the different posts having far exceeded his most sanguine expectations. He set out for Montreal with returns of the value DEMAJsD FOR RUM. Ill of 5,000/. sterling, and left me in charge for the summer at Fort Coulonge, and Mr. Lane at the outpost. Only one family of Algonguins passed the summer inland, — the same miscreants that had nearly murdered the old woman at the Chats ; a deed which I had neither forgotten, nor could divest myself of the feelings of indignation it had awakened in my breast. In the course of the summer, the interpreter of the post being in want of some paddles, em- ployed this exemplary father to make them, and paid for them in rum. The quantity was so small, however, that it only had the effect of exciting their thirst, and they returned early in the night for more, which was peremptorily refused. The doors were bolted, and we retired to rest ; but rest they were determined we should not have that night ; and they continued knocking at the doors and windows, and bawling out at the top of their lungs, " Rum, — more rum!" until day- light next morning. I rose very early, in not the best humour possible, and taking the key of f2 112 A SCUFFLE. the store in my hand — I know not for what purpose — went out, and was followed by the Indian, still demanding more rum. I told him he should have none from me. " But I must have some." " Then you shall go elsewhere for it ;" and without more ado, I turned him out, pushing him with some violence from the door. He fell on his face on the platform that ran in front of the building, and leaving him there to recover his footing at leisure, I returned towards the dwelling-house ; but had scarcely reached the end of the platform, when the yell of defiance, " Hee-eep, hoo-aw ! " resounded in my ears. I instantly wheeled round, and found myself face to face with the Indian. The old villain attempted to collar me, but, enraged to mad- ness, I now grappled with him, and with all my might hurled him from the platform to the ground. I stood for a moment hesitating whether I should strike him while down, but had little time to deliberate, — the savage was again on his legs. A SCUFFLE. 113 He rushed towards a gun that stood against a fur- press hard by ; I instantly comprehended his intention, and finding a stick at hand, in the twinkling of an eye, I struck hira a blow that laid him senseless on the ground. Being scarcely aware of what I was doing, I was about to repeat the blow, when I found the upHfted weapon seized from behind. It was Primeau, my inter- preter, who addressed me in a sootliing tone, telling me I had already " done for " the Indian. This startling announcement restored me to reason. Was I indeed guilty of the blood of a fellow-creature ? The thought chilled me with horror. I dashed the stick to the ground. It was instantly picked up by one of his three sons, whom the noise of the scuffle had now brought all up ; brandishing it aloft, he aimed a blow at my head, which I parried with my arm, the limb dropping senseless to my side. My men, how- ever, were now on the spot to defend me, and a fierce scuffle took place between them and the 114 A SCUFFLE. Indian's sons. Had they been the stronger party on this occasion, my fur-trading career would have terminated that morning. They, however, got a sound drubbing ; while their wretched father, who had been the cause of the disturbance, lay unheeded and unconscious on the spot where he had fallen, not exhibiting the least sign of life. A place of temporary accommodation being prepared by his family, he was borne thither on a blanket, and I retired to my quarters in a state of mind not easy to be described. Soon after, the interpreter came in with a message from the Indians, entreating me to come and advise with them touching the manner in which they should dispose of their father's body. I went, and just as I stepped within the camp, to the astonishment of all present, the dead man sprang upon his feet. Seeing me at his side, he exclaimed, " You shall have cause to repent this ! " The words were scarcely out of his mouth, when he Sank down again, and for a period of six weeks after he ITS RESULTS. 115 remained as helpless as an infant. He was sub- sequently carried down to the Lake of Two Mountains, where he recovered from the effects of tliis castigation, to die, two years after, in a fit of drunkenness. 116 ARRIVAL OF 3IR. SIVIRIGHT. CHAPTER X. PERE DTJCHAMP — ME. S.'s INSTEUCTIONS — TJNSUCCESSPUL — — TBADING EXCUKSION — DIFFICULTIES OF THE JOtJB.NET — LOSE OUR WAT — PROVISIONS FAIL — REACH THE PORT — VISIT TO A^ ALGONQUIN CHIEF — HIS ABUSIVE TREATMENT — SUCCESS, Mr. Siviright arrived about the latter end of August, accompanied by another junior clerk, and a few days aftervrards the opposition were seen passing. I embarked with my fellow-scribe, and arrived next day at the lower outpost, when I was much disappointed to find ray old inter- preter, whom I had with me at the Chats, in the service of our opponents. He was my Indian tutor, and took every pains, not only to teach me the language, but to initiate me in the mys- PERE DUCHAMP. 117 teries of the trade, in which he was justly con- sidered an adept. Our opponents offered him a high salary, which he would not accept until he had previously made a tender of his valuable services to the Company, whom he had faithfully served for a period of thirty years and upwards. He requested a small addition to his salary, which was refused. My regard for the worthy old man, however, was not in the least diminished by the circum- stance of his being in opposition. Pere Duchamp and I had still our friendly tete-a-tete whenever we had an opportunity. The autumn passed without any incident having occurred worthy of note, I and my opponent being occupied in the usual way, — watching each other night and day, chasing each other, and circumventing each other when we could. Late in the month of October, I was surprised to observe a couple of middle-sized canoes, deeply laden, put ashore at our opponent's, where the crews, five in number, passed the night. Next morning, as soon as they were gone, I called F 3 118 ARRIVAL OF IROQUOIS. on my old friendj who happened to be alone at the time, to inquire about his visitors. He demurred for a little, and at length said : " For your sake, and to you only, would I disclose the secret of these people's object and destination. They called at Fort Coulonge yesterday, and gave themselves out for a party of hunters, bound for the Temiscamingue quarter ; — they are a party of Iroquois, supplied with a valuable assortment of goods for trade, and their destination is Lac de la Vieille, in the very centre of the Algonquin hunting-grounds." This was a most important piece of intelli- gence: some of these Indians had been supplied at Fort Coulonge, some at my post, and all of them were deeply indebted at the Lake of Two Mountains. I passed the day in the anxious expectation of seeing Mr. S., or at least receiving instructions from him with reference to these people. No one coming, I resolved to proceed to Fort Coulonge, and communicate vha voce the information I had received. Late in the evening, I embarked in a small INSTRUCTIONS TO FOLLOW THEM. 119 canoe, witli two men, and reached the Fort at early dawn ; and rousing Mr. S. from his slum- bers, I at once announced the object of my visit. " Well," said he, " this requires consideration : retire to rest, and I shall think about it." I retired accordingly, and slept till breakfast- time, when the subject was discussed ; and his decision was, that I should send one of the two young men who were at my post in pursuit of the Iroquois, with instructions to follow them up, until the season should be so far advanced as merely to admit of his return by open water, unless the Iroquois pitched their tent before then. I volunteered myself to go after them with an outfit ; but no ; it would be dividing our forces, thereby allowing an advantage to our more formidable opponents ; besides, we had not much to apprehend from the Iroquois with their trifling means. " Trh hien,'^ I said to myself, and set off on my return forthwith. I of course lost no time in executing the orders I had received. 120 REACH FORT COULONGE. My bourgeois had his opinion of the matter, and I had mine ; I knew that the Iroquois, when left to themselves, would make their own prices for their goods, and thus, even with the small outfit they had, fleece the Indians of the principal part of their furs. Among the Indians whom I had supplied, was an individual whose advances amounted to a heavy sum. I felt extremely anxious about him, and resolved to pay him a visit as soon as travelling was practicable ; meantime, Swanston, who had been in pursuit of the Iroquois, returned from his disagreeable voyage on the 28th November, having learned nothing more than we already knew. I set off the next day, ostensibly on a visit to Mr. S., but really with the intention of starting from his post on my intended " de- rouine,"* arrived at Fort Coulonge among the drift ice, and on the 1st December started, accom- panied by the interpreter Primeau and another man, all of us with heavy burdens on our backs. * " Derouine,"— a trading visit to the Indians. DIFFICULTIES. 121 This proved the most toilsome trip I had yet undertaken ; the smaller lakes only were passable on the ice, and the rivers were nearly all open. The difficulties we thus encountered necessarily retarded our progress, and occupied so much more time than we had calculated upon, that our pro- visions were nearly consumed by the time we reached the first Indian camp, where we expected to procure a guide to conduct us to the party we were in search of. We succeeded in hiring a young man, but we only obtained a small supply of flour, the Indians having no other kind of provision to spare. Three days travelling brought us to the borders of the Indian's lands, where we soon discovered one of his early winter encamp- ments ; had we been a few days sooner we could have easily traced him from this spot, but the snow, which had recently fallen to a great depth, had nearly obliterated the marks he had left behind him.* My interpreter, accustomed to * When Indians remove in winter, in passing on rivers and lakes, they stick, at intervals, in the snow, branches of balsam, 122 FAILURE OF PROVISIONS. ** tracking," followed the sceiit for two days ; our guide, discontented with the short allowance, gave no assistance, till coming to an extensive "brule,"* he was completely at faults as no marks of any kind could be discovered. Our situation was now extremely critical ; we were reduced to one solitary meal of flour and water per diem, and but a few handfuls of this poor fare remained ; to return by the way we came was out of the question, to proceed to the post was in truth our only alter- native, and none of us was sufficiently acquainted with that part of the country to be sure of finding it ; while the Indian, positively refusing to keep us company any longer, turned back, and left us to get out of our difficulties as we best could. The interpreter proposed that another attempt should be made to find the Indian's encampment, and volunteered to go alone ; this proved the poor inclining in the direction they may have gone. In the woods, small saplings are cut or broken down ; if there is no under- wood, an occasional " blaze " serves as a sign-post to the experienced woodsman. * " Brule," a part of the forest consumed by fire. LOSE OUR WAY. 123 fellow's zeal, but he returned to our encampment next morning unsuccessful ; we therefore resolved to go back, and, finding our way without much difficulty for a couple of days, we reached the upper end of a long portage leading to the Ottawa River, where we encamped late in the evening, and supped on the hope of getting to the post next forenoon. "We started early in the morning, the Canadian leading, and about noon fell on fresh snow- shoe tracks — the tracks, we supposed, of some of our people who had come to seek us ; and feeling assured that our sufferings would termi- nate with the day, we pursued our route with renovated vigour and speed ; when lo ! our en- campment of the preceding night came in view, the excitement of our minds having prevented us from discerning our mistake, as we might have done, sooner. The sun was still high, but the circumstance of the encampment being already prepared, induced us to put up there again for the night. It was a sad disappointment, and I 124 COMMENCE AFRESH. felt it as such, though I affected a gaiety that was far from my heart ; while with downcast looks and heavy hearts my poor fellows betook themselves to rest at a very early hour. Next morning we set off determined to be more cautious ; the mistake of the previous day was ascribed to the sound of a high cascade at the head of the rapid, which we had mistaken for another considerably farther down ; our Cana- dian still acted as guide — the blind leading the blind — and after two hours' walk we fell upon our own tracks again ; — the poor fellow had yielded so completely to despair, that he walked about mechanically, scarcely knowing or caring whither he went; he was therefore ordered to the rear, and Primeau succeeded as leader. We saw nothing more of our tracks, but encamped in the evening with much the same prospects as before. I felt extremely weak, having carried Primeau's pack along with my own, as the old man could scarcely move when beating the track in the deep snow. Having a few fresh beaver SIGHT OF THE GRAND RIVER. 125 skins, we cut off the thicker parts about the head and legs, and made a bouillon of them, which we drank, and then turned in. In the morning it became a subject of serious debate what direction we should proceed in ; the sky, however, having been clear the pre- ceding evening, I observed the sun setting, and determined in my own mind the proper course ; both my companions differed from me, but readily agreed to follow me. I therefore took the lead, and was so fortunate as to discover an old track, soon after leaving our encampment, which we followed until it brought us in sight of the Grand River — the long-looked for object of our fast failing hopes. Tears of joy burst from my eyes, as I beheld before me the wide expanse of the noble stream : although covered with ice and divested of the beauties of sum- mer, it never appeared more lovely to me. We reached the post after night-fall ; opening the door cautiously, I threw in my snow-shoes, then bolting in myself, was gratified with the sight of a table garnished with the best things the 126 OUR EXPEDITION FRUITLESS. country aiforded, which my two friends had prepared for their Christmas dinner ; the sight, however, was all that prudence allowed us for the present to enjoy, our long abstinence ren- dering it necessary to confine ourselves, for a time, to a very weak diet. Next day I despatched a messenger to Fort Coulonge with the narrative of my adventures; and as soon as my strength was sufficiently re- cruited I set off again, accompanied by a tete de houle as my guide, who led us direct to the camp of the Indian I had so long been in search of; where I had the mortification to learn, that on my first attempt I had returned from within a day's journey of him, and that if I had then succeeded in finding him, I should have secured the whole of the valuable hunts of him and his people, which were now in possession of the Iroquois traders. On my return to the post I communicated my sentiments freely to Mr. S. in writing, regarding the oversight that had led to consequences so injurious to the Company, and went afterwards, at his own request, to talk ATTEMPT TO MEND IT. 127 over the matter with him. It was now decided that I should go with a party of men to establish a post against them, i.e. to shut the stable-door after the steed was stolen. To accomplish this object supplies of every kind must be hauled on sledges by the men, at an enormous expense, and after all we could not furnish the means of competing with the Iroquois with any prospect of advantage. I however lost no time in ex- ecuting the orders of my superior, and set off with as many men as could be spared for the purpose. On arriving at our destination, we built a temporary hut for our own accommodation, and a small store for the goods ; but I soon dis- covered that the Iroquois had not only already secured all the Indians' furs, but had so com- pletely ingratiated themselves with them that we were scarcely noticed. I remained two months in this wretched situation, and, as Mr. S.'s instructions left me in some measure to the exercise of my own judgment, I resolved on transferring the iionourahle charge to persons 128 VISIT AN ALGONQUIN CHIEF. less sanguine than myself, and returned to my post, where I knew my services could be turned to better account. In returning I happened to fall in with a small band of Indians, who had not yet been visited by the Iroquois, one of whom was the brother of the Algonquin chief, who had been so severely chastised the pre- ceding winter. At his lodge I passed the night, and was not only treated with the usual Indian hospitality, but received a very pressing in- vitation to return with a supply of goods, which he promised to trade. Such invitations are never neglected. The moment I arrived at my post I laid aside the articles required by the Indians, and after one day's rest, started, myself and two men, carrying everything on our backs. It being late in the season, we encountered every possible difficulty on our way : the small streams overflowed, and the ice was so bad on the rivers as to preclude travelling on them. V7e were therefore under the necessity of taking to the woods, through a horridly rugged country, now ascending hills VISIT AN ALGONQUIN CHIEF. 129 SO steep that we could only scramble up their sides by holding on by the branches and under- wood, the descent on the opposite side being equally difficult and laborious; now forcing our way through deep ravines overgrown with underwood, all but impervious ; sinking to the ground at every step, and raising on our snow-shoes a load of half-melted snow, which strained the tendons of the legs and caused acute pain. Early in the morning of the sixth day we arrived at the camp, but, to our astonishment, neither heard the voice nor saw the form of a human being, though there were infallible signs that the camp was inhabited. It was the sugar season. I entered the great man's hut with a cautious step, and found every soul in it fast asleep. I marked with surprise the confusion that prevailed around, — sugar kettles upset, pots, pans, wearing apparel, blankets, and other articles, scattered about in every direction ; — what could it mean? I awoke the chief, and the mystery 130 VISIT AN ALGONQUIN CHIEF. was solved. He appeared to be just recovering from the effects of the night's debauch, — the Iroquois yveve in the camp. Mine host " grinned horribly a ghastly smile" as he placed himself, rather unsteadily, in a sitting posture in his bed, and in a hoarse tremulous voice bade me welcome, at the same time rousing his better-half, who appeared to be in the same happ^/ state as himself. A clatter ensued that soon set the whole house- hold in motion, and I hastened to make the cus- tomary offering of a small keg of rum to the chief, and another of shrub to the squaw, who imme- diately ordered a young woman (the family drudge) to prepare my breakfast. Meanwhile the chief, along with two of his relatives, amused himself quaffing his nectar, which evidently began to have its usual effects, and from the ex- pressions I overheard, I could gather that he had neither forgotten his brother's treatment last winter, nor forgiven me the part I had acted on the occasion. I listened with affected indifference for a time to the taunts he began to throw out, HIS ABUSIVE TREATMENT. 131 and at last, to get rid of them, went to visit the other huts, where I found the Iroquois preparing for their departure ; they had several parcels of beaver, which they took no pains to conceal from me, but there was still much more remaining. After seeing them depart I returned to my chief, who received me with a volley of abuse, in wliich he was joined by his associates. The women, who were sober, observing by my looks that I was getting excited, requested me to withdraw. I did so, but was followed by the chief to the next hut, which I quitted immediately ; I found myself still pursued by the same insufferable insolence. My philosophy being unequal to so severe a trial, I turned upon my tormentor, and seizing liim by the throat, dashed him to the ground, and left him there speechless. I then made for a hut a short distance apart from the others, belonging to a tete de loule, where I remained in quietness for about the space of fifteen minutes; when suddenly my Canadian came rushing into the hut, his countenance 132 AN ALARM. betraying the utmost alarm, and staring me wildly in the face, he stammered out, " Les sauvages ! les sauvages, monsieur, prennent leurs armes ! Sauvons-nous ! Sauvons-nous ! " The Iroquois, coming in the next instant, confirmed his report; but I had, in fact, been flying the whole morning, and thought it now high time to take my stand. My Iroquois appearing quite calm, I told him I was determined not to stir from the spot, and asked if he would remain with me. " I came here for that purpose," said he, " and shall stand by you to the last." Our ttte de boule had two guns, which he loaded; Sabourin had his, which he promised to use in his own defence : thus prepared, we awaited the expected attack. The remainder of the day, however, passed without molestation, and after night-fall, I sent out my trusty Iroquois to recon- noitre ; he soon returned with the welcome in- telligence that the Indians had all retired to rest. We did the same. Next morning I went to the chiefs lodge, and AN EXPLANATION. 133 found him perfectly sober; I saluted him accord- ing to custom, which he returned with a scow], repeating my words in a contemptuous manner ; this exasperated my yet excited feelings to the highest degree. I felt assured that the fellow had invited me on purpose to insult me, if not for a worse purpose ; and, addressing him in lan- guage that plainly bespoke my feelings, I imme- diately ordered my men to prepare for our departure. He remained silent for a moment, and then whispered in his wife's ear ; she turned round to me, smiling, and asked if I had not brought the goods, my men were packing up, to trade ? " Yes," I replied. " Then," said she, " you must not be in such a hurry to go away." The husband now spoke to me in a conciliatory tone, begging me to place all that had happened to the account of the " fire-water," and for hea- ven's sake not to acquaint his father with his conduct. ^ VOL. L G 134 SUCCESSFUL TRADE. This I readily assented to ; we entered upon business, and nearly all the goods I had were exchanged for their full value in beaver. We found the travelling much better on our return, the small streams having subsided, and the snow so much diminished, that we could walk without snow-shoes. THE IROQUOIS TRADERS. 135 CHAPTER XI. SITCCESS OF THE IROQUOIS TKADEES — APPOINTED TO THE CHARGE OF THE CHATS — CANADIAN DISPUTES POSSESSION BIVOUAC WITHOUT A FIRE— RUSE TO BAFFLE MY OPPONENTS — ROMAN CATHOLIC BIGOTRY. The Iroquois passed early in spring with eighteen Indian packs in their canoes, — each pack might be estimated at 60/., — our other opponent started for Montreal about the same time as last year, and I was ordered down to Fort Coulonge to take Mr. S.'s place for the summer. He returned from Montreal about the end of August, and I was much gratified to learn from him that I had been again appointed to the charge of the Chats, so that all the merit or demerit of good or bad management would now be entirely my G 2 136 APPOINTED TO THE CHATS. own. A few days after, a middle-sized canoe arrived, manned by three Canadians, with whom I embarked for the scene of my first essay as an Indian trader. On arriving at the post, I was surprised to find an old Canadian and his cara sposa.m possession, — a circumstance of which I had had no previous intimation. This worthy pair seemed determined to maintain their position in defiance of me ; and not wishing to employ violent means to dis- possess them if it could possibly be done other- wise, I passed the night in the hall. Having, however, obtained possession of the outworks, I was determined to carry the citadel ; and, sum- moning the contumacious occupants into my presence next morning, I demanded, in a peremp- tory tone, the immediate surrender of the keys. " Show me your authority," said he. " If I do not show it, you shall feel it pre- sently!" Seeing that I ordered my men to put my threat into execution, Jean Baptiste assumed a more humble attitude, and requested me, as a favour. VISIT TO FORT COULONGE. 137 to permit him to remain in the kitchen until he could find a passage to Montreal ; — with tliis request I willingly complied. My old opponent had still a post in this district, and I was directed to send a party in opposition to him ; which being done, I remained quiet until the winter communication became practicable, when I determined on paying a visit to my friends in the Fort Coulonge district. The distance being short, and my object having no connexion with the Company's interests, I set off on my pleasure jaunt alone. I put up the first night at a sort of tavern just then opened by an American at the upper end of the Chats' Lake, the only habitation at that time in the quarter, whence I started at early dawn, expect- ing to reach Fort Coulonge before night. The lumbermen having commenced sledging their win- ter supplies, the road formed by these vehicles presented a hard, smooth surface, on which I made good speed, as I had nothing to encumber me, save my blanket and tomahawk. Arri^dng at a long bend of the river about 138 A TRAVELLER ON THE ROAD. 2 P.M., I put on my snow-shoes "to cut across the point and meet the road again, flattering myself that I should thus shorten the distance some two or three miles. The weather being mild, and the sun overcast, I was as much at a loss to find my way in the woods as if I had been blindfolded ; I nevertheless continued my onward course, and again came on the road. I proceeded in high spirits for a considerable time, when I perceived a man before me going in the same direction with myself; quickening my prce I soon came up with him, and asked him if he was bound for the Fort ? " I guess I don't know of any fort in this part of the world," said he. " What ! not know of Fort Coulonge, and you so near to it ? are you not going there ?" " I have heard of such a place," said Jonathan ; " but I'd take a tarnation long time to get to it, I calculate, if I followed my nose as it points now." I told him who I was, whither bound, and where I slept last night. / OVERTAKE OUR OPPONENTS. 139 " I guess then you had better sleep there again, for it is not quite three miles off." This was the result of making a short cut, and I resolved to follow the long and sure road in future. A shanty that had been recently occupied, afforded me comfortable lodgings for the night, and I arrived at Fort Coulonge about noon next day, where I passed the night, and started for the outpost. Here I remained two days, and would have remained still longer, had it not been dis- covered one morning that our opponents were off in the direction of my outpost on the Bonne Chere. As the Indians in that quarter were excellent hunters, and owed me much, I deemed it advisable to follow them ; my friends, too, sent an interpreter and three men along with me, for the purpose of trading what they could on accoimt of their own post — chacun pour soi being the order of the day. We soon overtook our opponents, and I resolved, if possible, to give them the slip by the way. Accordingly, when within a day's 140 A RUSE, TO BAFFLE THEM. ■"f journey of the establisliment, I pretended to have sprained my foot so badly, that I walked with the greatest seeming difficulty. My men, who were aware of the ruse, requested me to place my bundle on their sledges, to enable me to keep up with them. This farce commenced in the evening. Next morning my leg was worse than ever, until we came on the river at about ten miles' distance from the post. I was de- lighted to find but little snow upon the ice, so that I had a fair opportunity of putting the metal of my legs to the test, and the opposition party having sledges heavily laden, I walked hard, my foot on a sudden becoming perfectly sound, in order to tire them as much as possible before I bolted. Having apparently effected my purpose, I set off at the top of my speed, and ,iever looked behind me until I had cleared the first long reach, when turning round, I saw a man in pursuit about half-way across; I started again, and saw no more of my pursuer. On arriving at the post I was gratified to learn that the Indians, whom I was so anxious / SUCCESS. 141 about, had been in a few days previously, while our opponents were off in another direction; so that they had been seen by none save our own people. Finding two men at home, I proceeded with them to the Indian camp, and arrived at dawn of day. I met with a very- friendly reception, and had the good fortune to prevail upon the Indians to deliver me their furs upon the spot, which formed a very heavy load for both myself and men. We met our opponents in returning ; but though they had ocular proof of my success, they nevertheless went on to the camp. Having arrived at the post, I found some Indians there all intoxicated ; I was also mortified to find the person in charge in the same state. I immediately displaced him, and made over the charge, pro tempore, to one of the men. The conduct of my worthless deputy hurt me so much that I could not remain another night under the same roof with him. I therefore set off on my return to the Chats, although already late in the g3 142 BIVOUAC WITHOUT FIUK. afternoon, expecting to reach .the first shanty in the early part of the night. The Bonne Chere river is very rapid in the upper part, and does not " set fast " * until late in the season, unless the cold be very intense. I arrived at this part soon after night-fall, and perceiving by the clear light of the moon the dangers in my way, I deemed it imprudent to proceed farther ; and having nothing to strike fire with, I cut a few branches of balsam and strewed them under the spreading boughs of a large cedar, and wrapping myself up in my blanket, lay down. The weather being mild, I thought I could sleep comfortably without fire ; but was mistaken. When I awoke from my first sleep, which must have been sound, 1 found my limbs stiff" with cold, while my teeth chattered violently in my head. To remain in this con- dition till daylight was almost certain death ; I resolved, therefore, at all hazards to find my way to the shanty, which might be about ten * Preeze. hi I WINTER QUARTERS. 143 miJes distant. The light of the moon being very bright, enabled me to avoid the openings in the ice, and by moving on cautiously, about three o'clock in the morning I reached the shanty ; which belonged to a warm-hearted son of Erin, who received me with the characteristic hos- pitality of his countrymen, placing before me the best his cabin afforded, and with his own blankets and those of his men making up a comfortable bed, on which I slept till late in the day, and next night in my own bed. As the greater part of my customers wintered in the vicinity of the outpost, and I had no longer any confidence in the person in charge there, I re- solved on passing the remainder of the winter at it myself; I therefore requested that a person should be sent up from the Lake of Two Mountains to take care of the establishment during my absence. On the arrival of this person, I proceeded to the outpost, but shall pass over the transactions that occurred there, being similar in all respects to those already narrated. One circumstance, how- 144 ROMAN CATHOLIC ever, occurred, which, though not in my vocation, I think worthy of notice. Two itinerant missionaries called at the Lake of Two Mountains and distributed a number of re- ligious tracts among the natives, together with a few copies of the Gospel according to St. John, in the Indian language. My Algonquin interpreter happened to get one of the latter, and took much pleasure in reading it. Towards the latter end of the season I received a packet from my supe- rior at the Lake, and, to my surprise, found in it a letter with the seal of the Church affixed, addressed to my interpreter, which I put into his hands, and observed him perusing very atten- tively. Soon after he called me aside, and told me that the letter in question conveyed a peremptory command from the priest to destroy the bad book he had in his possession, or else his child that died in autumn would be denied the rites of christian sepulture. We are told that the age of bigotry is past : facts like this prove the contrary. I asked him BIGOTRY. 145 if he intended to obey the commands of his ghostly father. " Not exactly," said he ; "I shall send the book to him, and let him do with it what he pleases ; for my part, I have read it over and over again, and find it all good, very good ; why the 'black coat' should call it bad is a mystery to me." 146 JOURNEY TO MONTREAL. CHAPTER Xll. JOURNEY TO MONTREAL — APPOINTMENT TO LAC DE SABLE — ADVANTAGES OF THIS POST — ITS DIFPICULTIES — GOVERNOR'S FLATTERING LETTER — RETURN FROM MONTREAL — LOST IN THE VS^OOD — SUFFERINGS — ESCAPE. Early in spring I returned to the Chats, and after the close of the trade took my departure for Montreal, having finished my apprenticeship. I renevs^ed my contract for three years, and was appointed to the charge of Lac de Sahle, a post situated on a tributary of the Ottawa, called Riviere mix Lievres, two hundred miles distant from Montreal. I embarked on the 15th August, 1826, and arrived at the post on the 1st September; where LAC DE SABLE — DIFFICULTIES. 147 I was gratified to find a comfortable dwelling- house, and a large farm with pigs, poultry, and cattle in abundance. All this was very well, but there was also a powerful opposition, and I had experience enough to know that the enjoy- ment of any kind of comfort is incompatible with the life we lead in opposition. The difficulties of my situation, moreover, were from various causes extremely perplexing. The old North-West agents, acting for the Hudson's Bay Company in Canada, had declared a bank- ruptcy the preceding winter ; the principal manager having quitted the country rather pre- cipitately, as was supposed, and forgotten to appoint a successor ; the management devolved in consequence upon tie head accountant, Mr. C e, who, however well he might be qualified for the duties of the situation, felt the responsi- bility of acting without authority to be too great, and confined himself accordingly to such measures only as he was confident would subject him to no inconvenience when the day of reckoning arrived. Meantime the business of this department sus- 148 LAC DE SABLE. tained a serious check ; the old hands of the post, having been tampered with by the opposition in the course of last winter, quitted the service to a man, and I now found the establishment to consist of a clerk, interpreter, and one man only. I was given to understand that three men addi- tional would join me as soon as they could, and that I must not expect any more ; thus our number would be seven against twenty-two. A disparity so vast precluded all hopes of maintaining the contest with advantage to the Company or credit to myself. Fortune, however, declared in our favour; dissensions arose in the ranks of our opponents, clerks and men deserted, supplies for trade ran short, and from being the weaker party we were now the stronger. Governor Simpson having taken up his resi- dence at La Chine in autumn, men and goods were furnished in abundance, and the petty traders were made to see, ere the winter passed, the futility of entering the lists in competition with a Company possessing so vast resources. Mr. MacD 1 having wintered two years at FLATTERING LETTER. 149 this post, and being consequently well acquainted with the natives, I entrusted the direction of affairs against the opposition entirely to him, and re- mained quietly at home, having only the few Indians that wintered in the neighbourhood of the post to attend to; my situation, however, was often far from agreeable, being frequently reduced to the company of my pigs and poultry for weeks together, and obliged to act as trader, cook, hewer of wood, and drawer of water. In the course of the winter I was favoured with a visit from Mr. F r, to whose district this post had just been annexed, and had the gratification to receive, through him, a letter from Governor Simpson, conveying, in very flattering terms, his approbation of my conduct. I was told that I was in the direct road to preferment — that my merits should be represented to the Council on his arrival in the interior — and that he should be happy to have an opportunity of recommending me to the Governor and Committee, when he returned to England. We shall see, in the sequel, how these promises were fulfilled. 150 RETURN FROM MONTREAL. I embarked, on the loth June, 1827, for Montreal, and found Mr. K h, a chief factor in the service, at the head of affairs ; and my outfit being prepared in a few days, I re-embarked, taking my passage, as formerly, on board of a large canoe, deeply laden. The last rapid and portage on the Riviere aux Lievres is within eight miles of the establishment, and generally takes the men a day to pass it. Arriving at this place late in the evening, I resolved on going on a-foot ; it being fine moonlight, I felt confident of finding my way without difficulty. The weather having been immoderately hot for some time past, I had sat in the canoe divested of my upper garments, and thought I might, without inconvenience, dis- pense with them now, as I expected to reach the house ere the night air could prove injurious to me. Setting ofi", therefore, in *' light marching order," I immediately gained the high grounds, in order to keep clear of the underwood that covers the banks of the river; and just as the moon ap- peared above the surrounding hills, arrived on the banks of a small stream, where I observed a LOST IN THE WOOD. 151 portage path sunk deep in the ground, a circum- stance which proved it to be much frequented— by whom or for what purpose I could not say, for I had seldom passed the limits of my farm during last winter, and was nearly as ignorant of the topography of the environs as the first day I ar- rived. I had not heard of the existence of a river in the quarter, nor did I imagine there was any ; the conclusion I arrived at therefore was, that I had lost my way, and that my most eligible course was, to endeavour to find the main stream, and by following it, retrace my course to the portage. I soon fell on the river, but my retrograde march proved exceedingly toilsome ; at every step I was oblio-ed to bend the branches of the underwood to one side and another, or pressing them down under my feet, force my way through by main strength : some short spaces indeed intervened, that admitted of an easier passage ; still my progress was so slow that the sun appeared before I reached the upper end of the portage. Finding an old canoe here, belonging to the post, I resolved on crossing to the opposite side of the river, where I knew there was 152 LOST IN THE WOOD. a path that led to the house, by which the Indians often passed when travelHng in small canoes. I accordingly ran to the lower end of the portage for a paddle, where I found my men still asleep ; and having heard that the lower end of this path came out exactly opposite to the upper end of the por- tage, I struck out into the woods the moment I landed, fancying that I could not fail to discover it. The sun got higher and higher as I proceeded, and I went faster and yet faster, to no purpose ; — no path appeared ; and I at length became convinced that I was lost — ^being equally in difficulty to find my way back to the river as forward to the post. The weather was very sultry ; and such had been the drought of the season that all the small creeks were dried up, so that I could nowhere procure a drop of water to moisten m}' parched lips. The sensations occasioned by thirst are so much more painful than those we feel from hunger, that although I had eaten but little the preceding day, and nothing on that day, I never thought of food. While my inner man was thus tortured by thirst, my outer man scarcely suffered less from another SUFFERINGS. 153 cause. The country through which I passed being of a marshy nature, I was incessantly tormented by the venomous flies that abound in such situa- tions, — my shirt, and only other habiliment, hav- ing sustained so much damage in my nocturnal expedition, that the insects had free access partout* I came to the foot of a high hill about two o'clock P.M., which I ascended, and got a very good view of the surrounding country from its summit ; hills and lakes appeared in every direction ; but the sight of these objects only served to impress my mind with the conviction, that, unless Providence should direct my steps to the establishment, the game was up with me. Having descended, I sauntered about the remainder of the day, my ideas becoming more and more bewildered, and * There are tlirce different kinds of these tormenting insects, viz. the mosquito, the black-fly, and the gnat — the latter tne same as the midge in N. Britain — who relieve each other regularly in the work of torture. The mosquitoes continue at their post from dawn to eight or nine o'clock, a.m.; the black-flies succeed, and remain in the field till near sun- set; the mosquitoes again mount guard till dark, and are finally succeeded by the gnats, who continue their watch and incessant attacks till near sunrise. 154 LOST IN THE WOOD. my strength declining ; and passed the night sometimes sitting, sometimes standing, sometimes moving about ; — but sitting, standing, or moving about, subjected to the same tortures. I endeavoured during the night to compose my mind as much as possible ; some happy thought might perchance suggest itself, which might lead to my deliverance. Nor were my efforts without some success : I called to mind the position of the post with respect to the rising and setting sun ; another circumstance of importance also recurred to me. A Canadian hunter, who received his supplies at my post, had told me that such Indians as did not wish to pay their debts at the post, frequently passed unperceived by a chain of small lakes that ran parallel to the river, and extended from Lac de Sable to somewhere near the rapid, whence I had taken my departure. I recollected, too, his having mentioned that some Indian families occasionally made sugar on the borders of these lakes, and that a good path lay from their camp to the post. Having passed the night in a deep SUFFERINGS. 155 valley, the sun- did not appear until late in tlie morning, when I shaped my course, to the best of my judgment, for the post. Two or three hours' walk brought me to the foot of a high hill, nearly destitute of wood on one side ; and expect- ing that some discovery might be made from the top which might be of use to me, I resolved on attempting the ascent — an undertaking of no small difficulty in my enfeebled state. I succeeded in gaining the top, and to my unspeakable joy, per- ceived a chain of lakes within about two miles of me, exactly corresponding to the description given me by the Canadian hunter. I also heard the reports of guns, but so indistinctly that I could not determine the direction the report came from. Noting with the utmost care the course that would lead me to the lakes, I descended the steep declivity with a degree of speed that sur- prised myself, — such is the powerful influence the mind exercises over the body. •- I expected an hour's w^alk would bring me to the lakes, but the sun being in the zenith, and my way lying through a dense forest of pine, 156 LOST IN THE WOOD. I could not keep a straight course. I proceeded onward, however, as well as reason could direct me, and most willingly would I have exchanged a little of that faculty for the instinct that leads the brute creation with unerring certainty through the pathless depths of the forest. The sun was rapidly declining, and my hopes with it, when suddenly I fancied I heard the murmuring sound of running water. Could it be really so ? What a delightful feast I should have ! for I had passed the day, like the pre- ceding, without a drop of water to allay my raging thirst. I listened ; the sound became more distinct — it was no illusion. I quick- ened my pace, and soon came upon a charm- ing rivulet, flowing rapidly over a bed of white pebbles, its water clear as crystal. I rushed into the midst of it, and fervently thanking the Giver of all good, threw myself on my knees, and drank draught after draught till my thirst was quenched. I felt refreshed to an extraordinary degree, and concluding that the stream would lead me to the river, or to some lake communicating with it, THUNDER STORM. 157 I followed its course, wading in the water that there might be " no mistake," and soon came out on the border of a small lake, where I had the additional satisfaction of hearing the report of guns so distinctly as to convince me that the party firing them could be at no great distance. I walked round the lake, and at its far end fell on a portage path that soon conducted me to another lake. This, then, must be the chain of lakes I was in search of! I was transported at the thought. But an incident soon occurred that served to damp at once my spirits and my person : a distant peal of thunder was heard ; peal after peal succeeded ; the heavens were obscured, and hea\y drops of rain, the harbingers of an ap- proaching storm, fell from the dark clouds. I strained every nerve to reach the firing party ere the storm should burst upon me. I reached the foot of the hill, but the firing had ceased. I nevertheless ascended as quickly as my wearied limbs would carry me, but on reaching the spot found no one there. VOL. I. H 158 THUNDER STORM. The storm now burst upon me in all its fury. Flash followed flash in quick succession, and the rain fell in torrents, which, however, as the few clothes that still adhered to my person were already saturated by the previous rain, caused me but little additional inconvenience. I de- scended to the lake, and by the time I reached the far end of it the darkness had increased so much, that I could proceed no farther. Per- ceiving an old encampment — a few half-decayed branches of balsam, at the foot of a large hem- lock — I took up my quarters there for the night. The tufted branches of this tree render it a much more secure retreat in a thunder-storm than the pine, whose pointed branches and spiral shaped top frequently attract the electric fluid. Towards morning the storm seemed to have expended its fury ; and, strange to say, in the midst of it I enjoyed two or three hours' sleep. Nature had been so exhausted by protracted sufferings, that (though the flies were driven to their covert) I believe I could have slept upon RIVIERE AUX LIEVRES. 159 a bed of thorns, covered with gnats and mos- quitoes. As soon as it was sufficiently clear to enable me to find my way, I quitted my hem- lock and fell on the portage path, which soon led me to another small lake, and which I pro- ceeded to circumambulate as usual, keeping a sharp look-out for the path that led to the post ; when suddenly the report of a gun burst from an adjoining hill. At the same instant, I observed a net pole standing in the water at the bottom of a small bay close by, and di- rected my steps towards it; when on approaching it I discovered a broad path ascending from the water's edge, and immediately after the buildings of a sugar camp. Allowing the party on the hill to blaze away, I followed the path, and in less than half-an- hour came out upon the Riviere aux Lievres, im- mediately opposite the house. I perceived the men of the establishment, with some Indians, all in a bustle ; some preparing to embark in a canoe, others firing. I sat down to gaze for a moment on the most interesting scene I had ever h2 160 ESCAPE FROM DIFFICULTY. witnessed, and then gave a loud cry, which it was evident nobody heard, although the river is not more than a stone-cast across. I made a second effort with better success. The Indians raised a shout of triumph ; the men hallooed, " Le voila ! le voila ! Je le vois ! Je le vois a I'autre bord ! Embarquez ! embarquez ! " A few minutes more, and I found myself re- stored to at best a prolonged life of misery and exile. Let it not be inferred from this expres- sion that I felt ungrateful for my deliverance ; on the contrary, my escape from a death so lingering and terrible made a deep impression upon my mind. I afterwards gave a holiday to my men in remembrance of it, and made them all happy for one day. MISHAP. IC)1 CHAPTER XIII. NAKRO'WXY ESCAPE DROWNING ACCIDENT TO INDIAN GUIDE — AM NEARLY FROZEN TO DEATH — MISUNDERSTANDING BE- TWEEN AXGONQUINS AND IROQUOIS — MASSACRE AT HANNAH BAT. Nothing occurred this year out of the usual routine, save an accident that happened to my- self, and had nearly proved fatal. A couple of hounds had been presented to me by a friend, for the purpose of hunting the deer that abounded in the neighbourhood. The dogs having one day broken loose from the leash, betook them- selves to the hills ; and the first intimation we had of their being at liberty, was the sound of their voices in full cry on an adjacent hill. I instantly seized my gun, and following a beaten 16^ NARROW ESCAPE. track that led to a small lake at the base of the hill, I perceived a deer swimming towards an island in the middle of the lake, and only a little beyond the range of gun-shot. An old fishing- canoe happening to be at hand, I immediately launched it, and gave chase, without examining the condition it was in. I proceeded but a short distance, however, when I perceived that it leaked very much. I continued, nevertheless, to paddle, till I got nearly half-way across to the island ; but by this time the quantity of water in the canoe had increased so much, that my ardour for the chase began to give way to anxiety for my own safety. I perceived a large hole in the stern of the canoe, now almost level with the surface of the lake, through which the water gushed with every stroke of the paddle. The fore-part appearing free from injury, I imme- diately inverted my position, — a movement neces- sarily effected with much difficulty in so small a craft; and having thus placed myself, the stern was consequently raised a little higher. I then paddled gently towards a long point projecting DEER HUNTING. 163 from the mainland, much nearer me than the island; and although I used the utmost caution in paddling, the canoe sunk under me some dis- tance from the shore. The lake, however, was fortunately shallow at this place, so that I soon found bottom. Had there been the least ripple on the water, I could not have escaped ; but the weather was perfectly calm, and the lake smooth as glass. In the early part of next winter, I went again in pursuit of the deer ; and although I incurred no great risk of losing my life, I yet experienced such inconveniences as seldom fall to the lot of amateur hunters in other parts of the world. I left the house early in the morning, and, starting a deer close by, gave chase, following the track over hill and dale, until I reached a high ridge bordering on Lac de Sable. Here the deer slackened his pace, and appeared, by his track, to have descended slowly into a valley, where he remained until I started him a second time. I still continued the pursuit, without thinking of time or distance from the establishment. At 164 A NEW OPPONENT. length the night evidently began to close, and 1 felt faint and exhausted from want of food, and the exertions I had made during the day. I therefore gave up the chase ; but to retrace my steps by the devious path by which I had pur- sued the deer, would have occupied the greater part of the night ; I therefore resolved on return- ing by a more direct course ; but the upshot was, that, after wandering about for some time, and repeatedly falling on my own tracks, I passed the night in the woods. Although nearly overcome with fatigue, I durst not think of lying down, well knowing what the consequence would be ; I therefore walked backwards and forwards, on a beaten track, the whole night ; and next morning adopted the sure course of finding my way by my tracks of the preceding day. Meeting an Indian by the way, who had been sent in search of me, he led me by a short cut, and we arrived at the house about two o'clock, p.m. In the autumn of 1829, another opponent entered the lists against us, — an enterprising Canadian, who had been for a long time in the INDIAN GUIDE. 165 Company's service. This adventurer proceeded some distance inland, and I need scarcely say that a party was sent to keep him company. Understanding that the new competitor gave oui- people more trouble than had been anticipated, I determined on taking an active part in the game ; and as I had only two men with me at Lac de Sable, whose services were required there, I set off alone, intending to take with me an Indian who had an encampment by the way, as I was unacquainted with the route. I slept at the Indian's wigwam, who readily accompanied me next morning ; but the weather being into- lerably cold, the poor fellow got both his ears frozen, et aluid quidquam prccterea, in crossing a large lake not far from his camp. The moment he perceived his mishap, he assailed me in the most abusive terms, and swore that he would accompany me no farther ; which, being conscious that I was partly the cause of his misfortune, I bore with as much equanimity as I could; and arriving at the opposite side of the lake, we h3 166 INCLEMENT WEATHER. kindled a fire, and I proceeded to treat his case according to the usual practice; that is, rubbing the part afiected with snow, or bathing it with cold water until it is thawed, and the circulation restored. Having happily succeeded, I forthwith dismissed him, and determined to find my way alone ; and having a tolerable idea of the direc- tion in which I should go, and the weather being clear, I entertained no doubt of falling some- where on the river whereon the post is situated. I came upon it, as it seemed to me, a con- siderable distance below the establishment, just as the sun was setting. Having travelled in deep snow the whole day, I felt so much fatigued that I could scarcely exert myself sufficiently to keep my body warm, the cold being intense. I walked as briskly as my diminished strength would allow ; but at length became so weak, that I was obliged to lay myself down at short intervals. In this wretched state, — my limbs benumbed with cold, and thinking I should never see daylight, — I DANGER FROM FROST. 167 suddenly came upon a hard beaten path: this inspired me with new vigour, as it indicated the close vicinity of a shanty. I soon discovered the desired haven, and crawling up the steep bank that led to it, I knocked at the door with my snow-shoes, and w^as immediately admitted. The noise I made roused the inmates, who had been sound asleep ; and who, seeing my helpless condition, exerted themselves in every possible way to relieve me. I was nearly in the last stage of exhaustion, being unable to take off my snow- shoes, or even articulate a word. One of these noble woodsmen guided me next day to the post ; when, as a small mark of gratitude for his generous kindness, I presented him and his companions with what is always acceptable to a shanty-man, a liberal allowance of the " crathur," to enjoy themselves withal. If it be asked why I did not make a fire, when I had the necessary apparatus ; I answer, that I had but a very small axe, quite unfit for felling so large timber as grew on the banks 168 DISAGREEABLE ACCIDENT. of this river ; and I was, besides, so benumbed and exhausted as to be unequal to the task even of lighting a fire. Sometime after my return from Montreal in the autumn of 1830, I went to pay a visit to one of my customers whose lands were at a consi- derable distance. I was accompanied by one man in a small canoe ; and as it was necessary that one of us should carry the canoe over the portages, and the other the property, I chose the former, being the lightest though by far the most incon- venient load. I found it very oppressive at first, but use rendered it more easy. This was the first time I carried a canoe. On our return from the Indian's camp we met with rather a disagreeable accident, while ascend- ing a small and very rapid river. In pushing forward the canoe against the stream, my pole happened to glance off a stone, and the canoe swinging round came in contact with the trunk of a tree projecting from the bank, and we, or at least I, was upset in an instant. Fortunately INDIAN QUARRELS. 169 the current, though strong, was smooth and free from whirlpools ; so that, after swimming down a short distance in search of a landing-place, I rejoined my companion, whom I found standing on the bank perfectly dry. On inquiring of him how he happened to avoid a ducking, he told me he sprang ashore while I was attempting to parry oiF the tree ; doubtless his having done so was in a great measure the cause of the accident. He, however, acted a very prudent part after landing, having caught hold of the canoe in the act of upsetting, and thus preserved the goods from being lost or damaged. In the course of this year, the Iroquois and Algonquins were nearly coming to blows on account of the hunting-grounds. This quarrel originated from a speech which Colonel McKay, then at the head of the Indian department, had addressed to the Iroquois, in which, making use of the metaphorical language of the people, he observed that Indians of all tribes ought to live together in the utmost concord and amity, seeing 170 DREADFUL MURDER. they inhabited the same villages, "and ate out of the same dish." This the Iroquois interpreted in a way more suitable to their own wishes than consistent with its real meaning. " Our father," said they, " tells us we eat out of the same dish with the Algonquins; — he means that we have an equal right to the hunting-grounds." They proceeded, accordingly, to avail themselves of the supposed privilege. The consequence was a very violent quarrel, in which Government was ulti- mately obliged to interfere. The Indians informed us, this spring, of a dreadful murder that had been committed in the early part of the winter by some of the natives of Hudson's Bay. The particulars of this tale of blood I since learned from an individual that escaped from the massacre. The Indians attached to the posts established along the shores of Hud- son's Bay are comparatively civilized; most of them speak English, and are employed as voyageurs by the Company. Few or no precau- tions are taken at these posts to guard against HANNAH BAY. 171 treachery ; the gates are seldom shut, and some of the posts are destitute of palisades or defence of any kind. Of this description was the post where the catastrophe occurred which I am about to relate. The post of Hannah Bay is situated about sixty miles to the north of Moose Factory, and was at this time under the charge of a Mr. Corrigal. His establishment consisted of two or three half- breeds, and an Indian who had been brought up by the whites. He and some of the men had families. In the course of the winter five Indians came in with their *' hunts," and agreeably to their usual practice encamped close by. Those Indians are designated " Home Guards," — a term generally applied to the Indians attached to a trading post; they hunt in winter at a convenient distance from the post, and are employed in summer as voy- ageurs, or in performing any other necessary duty. Notwithstanding their thus being frequently in company with white men and Christians, they still retain many of the barbarous habits, and much 172 THE "HOME GUARDS." of the superstitious belief of their forefathers, aggravated, I regret to say, by some of the vices of the whites. Among the number of those just mentioned was an individual who had acquired consider- able influence among his tribe, from his pre- tending to be skilled in the art of divination. This man told his fellows that he had had a communication from the Great Spirit, who assured him that he would become the greatest man in Hudson's Bay if he only followed the course pre- scribed to him, which was, first, to cut off their own trading post, and then with the spoil got there to hire other Indians, who should assist in destroying all the other posts the Company pos- sessed in the country. Accordingly, it was determined to carry their design into execution, whenever a favourable opportunity occurred. This was not long in presenting itself. They came one day to the establishment, and told the people that the " man of medicine " had come for the purpose of performing some extraordinary AN INDIAN PLOT. 173 feat that would astonish them all. The silly creatures believed the story, and went to the borders of the lake, where they observed the sorcerer showing off a variety of antics very much to their amusement. The conspirators, seeing this part of the stratagem succeed, rushed into the house, and immediately despatched Mr. Cor- rigal and his family. The men, hearing the report of the guns, hastened back towards the house. The two that first arrived were saluted by a volley of balls ; the one fell dead, the other fled. The third, seeing what had happened, seized his youngest child, and also fled. The mui'derers pursued. The poor fellow, encumbered by the weight of his child, necessarily fell behind. A ball from the pursuers killed the child, and wounded him in the hand. Dropping, then, the lifeless body, he soon came up with his fellow, and both escaped without further injury. It was about noon when they began their flight. One of them reached Moose Factory next day about noon, the other soon after. The distance — 174 TUE MURDERERS SEIZED. nearly sixty miles — travelled in so short a space of time, may appear incredible ; but fear gave them wings, they fled for their lives and never halted. One of them, my informant, lost all the toes of one of his feet by the frost. Measures were immediately adopted to frustrate the further diabolical designs of the Indians, as well as to avenge the innocent blood that had been shed. Messengers were despatched with all possible haste to Rupert's house, the nearest post, to give the alarm, and a party of men, under an efficient leader, was sent to seize the murderers. This expedition, however, proved unsuccessful, as the Indians could not be found in that direc- tion ; but, in the meantime, two of them who had come to Rupert's house to " spy the land," were seized and sent bound to Moose Factory, and one pf them was compelled to act as guide to another party. Led by him, they approached the camp without being perceived, and found the " man of medicine" sitting very composedly in his tent, surrounded by the spoils he had taken from the THEIR PUNISHMENT. 175 fort. He was secured, and the rest of liis asso- ciates, who were absent hunting, were soon " tracked," and secured likewise. They then all underwent the punishment they deserved. The fort presented a horrible spectacle. Men, women, and children shared the same fate, and the mangled limbs of their victims were scattered among the articles of property which the wretches, not being able to carry off with them, had at- tempted to destroy. 176 NARROW ESCAPE. CHAPTER XIV. FALL THEOIJGH THE ICE — DANGEROUS ADVENTUEE AT A EAPID — OPPONENTS GIVE IN — OEDEUED TO LA CHINE —TEEATMENI ON Mr AEEIVAIi — MANNEES, HABITS, AND SUPEESTITIONS OF •THE INDIANS — FEROCIOUS EEVENGE OF A SUPPOSED INJUEY — DIFFEEENT METHODS OF THE ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PRO- TESTANT MISSIONAEY — INDIAN COUNCILS — TEADITION OF THE FLOOD — BEAVEE-HUNTING — LANGUAGE. ' Finding tliat my presence was more wanted at the outpost than elsewhere, I resolved on taking up my residence there for the winter 1831-32. Our active opponent gave us much annoyance, causing great expense to the Company, without any benefit to himself; on the contrary, it ulti- mately ruined him. While accompanying our party on a trading excursion in the beginning of winter, I had a FALL THROUGH THE ICE. 177 very narrow escape. We were travelling on the Catineau, a very rapid stream that joins the Ottawa, a little below Hull. A young lad, interpreter to the opposition, and I, had one morning gone considerably in advance of the others, walking smartly to keep ourselves warm, when I suddenly broke through the ice. The current here running strong, I should soon have been swept under the ice, had I not, by extending my arms upon it on either side of me, kept my head above water. At the hazard of his own life, my companion came to my assist- ance ; but the ice was too weak to admit of his approaching sufficiently near to reach me his hand ; he therefore cut a long pole, and tying his belt to it, threw it to me; and laying hold of it, I dragged myself on the sound ice. But the danger was not yet over; the weather was intensely cold, so that my clothes were soon frozen solid upon me, and having no means of lighting a fire, I ran into the woods; and in order to keep my body from being frozen into the same mass with my clothes, continued running 178 DANGEROUS ADVENTURE up and down with all my might, till the rest of the party arrived. I had a still more narrow escape in the month of March ensuing. I had been on a visit to the post under my own immediate charge, termed head-quarters par excellence ; returning to the post alone, I came to a place where our men, in order to avoid a long detour occasioned by a high and steep hill coming close to the river, were accustomed to draw their sledges upon the ice along the edge of a rapid. About the middle of the rapid, where the torrent is fiercest, the banks of the river are formed of rocks rising almost perpendicularly from the water's edge ; and here they had to pass on a narrow ledge of ice, between the rock on the one side, and the foaming and boiling surge on the other. The ledge, at no time very broad, was now reduced, by the falling in of the water, to a strip of ice of about eighteen inches, or little more, adhering to the rock. The ice, however, seemed perfectly solid, and I made no doubt that, with caution, I sliould succeed in passing safely this formidable strait. AT A RAPID. 179 The weather having been very mild in the fore-part of the day, my shoes and socks had been saturated with wet, but were now frozen hard by the cold of the approaching night. Over- looking this circumstance, I attempted the dan- gerous passage ; and had proceeded about half- way, when my foot slipped, and I suddenly found myself resting with one hip on the border of ice, while the rest of my body overhung the rapid rushing fearfully underneath. I was now literally in a state of agonizing suspense : to regain my footing was impossible ; even the attempt to move might precipitate me into the rapid. My first thought indeed was to throw myself in, and endeavour by s^vimming to reach the solid ice that bridged the river a short distance below ; a glance at the torrent convinced me that this was a measure too desperate to be attempted; — I should have been dashed against the ice, or hurried beneath it by the current. But my time was not yet come. Within a few feet of the spot where I was thus suspended in suhlimis, the rock projected a little outward, so as to 180 OPPONENTS SUCCUMB. break the force of the current. It struck me that a new border of ice might be formed at this place, under and parallel to that on which I was perched ; exploring cautiously, therefore, with a stick which I fortunately had in my hand, all along and beneath me, I found my conjecture well founded ; but whether the ice were strong enough to bear me, I could not ascertain. But it was my only hope of deliverance ; letting my- self down therefore gently, I planted my feet on the lower ledge, and clinging with the tenacity of a shell-fish to the upper, I crept slowly along till I reached land. This autumn, I had the satisfaction of seeing all my opponents quit the field, some of whom had maintained a long and obstinate struggle; yet, although I had reason to congratulate myself on their departure, as it promised me relief from the painfully toilsome life I had led, I must do one of the parties, at least, the justice to say, that, in different cir'^umstances, I should have beheld their departure with regret. Dey and McGillivray carried on the contest longer than PROCEED TO LACHINE. 181 the others, and did so without showing any of that rancorous feeling which the other petty traders manifested towards the Company. Mac- Gillivray and myself, when travelling together, often shared the same blanket, and the same kettle ; and found, that while this friendly feeling was mutually advantageous to ourselves, it did not in any way compromise the interests of our employers. I parted from him, wishing him every success in any other line of business he might engage in. After the removal of my competitors, I found the time to hang heavily on my hands ; and the ease I had so often sighed for, I now could scarcely endure ; but I was not allowed long time to sigh for a change. On the 5th of April an Iroquois came up from Montreal with a packet convey- ing orders to me to proceed forthwith to Lachine, whence I should embark by the opening of the navigation for the northern department. I was alone at the post when these unexpected orders came to hand, all the men being absent at the outpost ; and as it behoved me to use the utmost VOL. I. I 182 ARRIVAL AT THE GRAND RIVER. diligence in order to get away ere winter travel- ling should break up, leaving an old squaw in charge, I set out for the outpost in quest of Mr. Cameron, who was appointed my successor ; and on the 7th of April took my departure. On arriving at the Grand River, I found tra- velling on the ice to be attended with great danger, and several accidents had already happened; but I had the good fortune to reach Grenville at the head of the Long Sault in safety ; here, however, my farther progress was arrested for a fortnight, the roads being impassable. I arrived at Lachine in the end of April, and after handing in the documents relative to my late charge, Mr. K told me I was at liberty to spend the intervening time until the embarkation, where and how I pleased. Gratified by this indulgence, I was about to frame a speech expressive of my gra- titude, when he continued, — " for, Sir, you are to understand we do not keep a boarding-house here." This stopped my mouth, and I reserved my thanks for a future occasion ; for I could not out feel, that being an officer of the Company, it A NEW APPOINTMENT. 183 was robbing me of a part of my pay under the pretext of an indulgence. Availing myself, how- ever, of this ungenerous grant of freedom, 1 spent some halcyon days in the company of relatives most dear to me, and expected no interruption to my enjoyment until the time appointed for the embarkation : but a few days after I had joined my relatives in the vicinity of Montreal, I received a letter, commanding me, in the most peremptory manner, to repair to Lachine, — "circumstances not foreseen at my arrival from the interior re- quired my departure without fiulher delay." I accompanied the bearer of Mr. K 's letter, and found, on arriving at Lachine, that I had been appointed to conduct some of Captain Back's party, who proved rather troublesome to him at Montreal, to the Chats, and there to await my passage to the north by the Brigade. I had now served the Hudson's Bay Company faithfully and zealously for a period of twelve years, leading a life of hardship and toil, of which no idea can be formed except by those whose hard lot it may be to know it by experience. i2 184 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS How enthusiastically I had laboured for them, may be better gathered from the foregoing nar- rative than from any statement I could here make. And what was my reward ? I had no sooner succeeded in freeing my district from opposition, than I was ordered to resign my situation to another, who would enjoy the fruits of my labour: — when I arrived at the Com- pany's head-quarters to take my departure for a remote district, I was ordered to provide for myself until I embarked ; and when enjoying myself in the bosom of my family, to suit the convenience of one of their correspondents, I was torn away from them prematurely, and with- out warning, — treatment, which caused one of them so severe a shock as nearly to prove fatal ! Before I take leave of the Montreal depart- ment, it may be well to allude more particularly to the manners and customs of the natives. The mode of life the Algonquins lead, while at their village, has been already touched upon; within these few years a great change has taken place, not in their morals, but in their circumstances. OF AMERICAN INI>IANS. 1S5 The southern and western parts of their hunting- grounds are now nearly all possessed by the white man, whose encroachments extend farther and farther every year. Beaver meadows are now to be found in place of beaver dams ; and rivers are crossed on bridges formed by the hand of man, where the labours of the beaver afforded a pas- sage for the roving Indian and hunter only a few years before. Happy change, it may be said; but so say not the Indians ; the days of happiness are gone for them, at least for those of the present generation ; though I have no doubt that their posterity may, in course of time, become reconciled to, and adopt those habits of life which their altered circum- stances may require. A few have done so already, but many of them still remain on the most remote parts of their lands, having no longer the means of enjoying themselves at their village, or of satis- fying the avarice of priests and tradei's. Here they pursue, without restraint or interruption, the mode of life most congenial to their habits. I have already observed, that I could discover 186 AMERICAN INDIANS. but little difference between the (so called) Chris- tian Indians, and their unbaptized countrymen, when beyond the surveillance of their priests. They practise all the superstitious rites of their forefathers, and place implicit confidence in the power of magic, although they admit that the same results cannot be obtained now, as formerly, in consequence, as they say, " of the Cross having come in contact with the Medicine." They have their genii of lakes, rivers, mountains, and forests, to whom they offer sacrifice. I was present at the sacrifice of a beaver, made by an Algonquin to his familiar, or " totem," in order to propitiate him, because he had been unsuccessful in hunting. The beaver was roasted without being skinned, the fur only being appropriated to the spirit, whilst the flesh afforded a luxurious feast to the sacrificer ; and in this part of the ceremony I willingly participated. When any of them is taken ill, the indisposition is ascribed to the effects of " bad medicine ;" and the person is mentioned whom they suspect of having laid the disease upon them. Many violent deeds are THEIR SAVAGE NOTIONS. 187 committed to revenge these supposed injurie?. An Algonquin, who had lost a child, blamed a tete de houle, who was domiciled at Lac de Sable, for his death. The ensuing spring the tete de houle took a fancy to visit the Lake of Two Mountains, and set off in company with the Algonquins. On arrival of the party at the Grand River, he who had lost his child invited the tete de houle to his tent, and entertained him in the most friendly manner for a time, then suddenly drawing his knife, he plunged it into the side of his unsuspecting guest. The poor wretch fled, and concealed himself in a pig-sty, where his groans soon discovered him to the Algonquin, who, again seizing him, thrust his knife into his throat, and did not withdraw it until he ceased to live. *' Now, " exclaimed his murderer, " I am avenged for the death of my child. You wanted to go to the Lake to be baptized, and here I have baptized you in your own blood." Many other instances might be adduced to 188 LOVE OF ARDENT SPIRITS. prove that the savage disposition of these Indians has not been greatly ameliorated by their pro- fession of Christianity ; they have, in fact, all the vices with but few of the virtues of their hea- then countrymen. They are immoderately fond of ardent spirits, men, women and — shocking to say — children. This hateful vice, which contributes more than any other to the debasement of human nature, seems to produce more baneful effects upon the Indian, both physically and morally, than upon the Euro- pean. The worst propensities of his nature are excited by it. While under the influence of this demon he spares neither friend nor foe ; and in many instances the members of his own family become the victims either of his fury or his lust. The crime of incest is by no means unknown among them ; rum, the greatest scourge and curse of the Indian race, is undoubtedly the principal cause of this dreadful corruption : but is it not strange that religion should have so little effect in reforming their manners ? The EFFORTS FOR THEIR CONVERSION. 189 Mississagays, the neighbours of the Algonquins, who speak the same language, were only con- verted a few years ago by the Methodists, and from being the most dissipated and depraved of Indians, are now become sober, industrious and devout. It seems, therefore, impossible even for the most unprejudiced to avoid the conclusion that the difference in manners must in a great measure be ascribed to the different methods adopted by the Roman Catholic and Protestant mission- aries in converting the natives. The Roman Ca- tholic convert is first baptized, then instructed in the forms of worship, taught to repeat Pater nosters and Ave Marias, to make the sign of the cross, and to confess. He is now a member of the Church, and is dismissed to his woods — a Christian, can we say ? The Methodists pursue a different course. Their converts must not only reform their lives, but give indubitable proofs that they are reformed ; they are taught so as to understand thoroughly the sound prin- ciples of Christianity ; and they must give an i3 190 INDIAN POLITY. account of their faith, and a reason for the hope that is in them, hefore they are admitted as mem- hers of the Christian community. " The tree is known hy its fruits," The Sachems, or chiefs of the Algon quins, possess httle or no authority, hut their advice is of some weight. There are gradations of rank in the chieftainship ; the Kitchi Okima, or great chief, takes precedence at the Council, and pro- pounds the subject of discussion; the inferior chiefs (Okimas) speak in turn, according to seniority ; every old man, however, whether chief or not, is allowed to give his opinion, and the general voice of the assembly decides the question at issue. It is seldom, however, that any question arises requiring much deliberation in the present times of peace. When a party of strange Indians arrives at the village, a council is called to ascertain the means the community may possess of dis- charging properly the rites of hospitality; each individual states the modicum he is willing to contribute, in cash or in kind, and the proceeds, which are always sufficient to entertain the guests INDIAN POLITY. 191 sumptuously, according to Indian ideas, while they remain, are placed at the disposal of the Kitchi Okima. Councils are held and harangues delivered when they receive their annual presents from Govern- ment ; these consist of blankets, cloth, ammuni- tion, and a variety of small articles, all of which in their present impoverished state are highly valued by them. They profess an attachment to the British Government ; but, like certain more civilized nations, they will fight for the cause that is likely to yield them most advan- tage. Their loyalty to Britain, therefore, is less to be depended on than their hatred to Ame- rica. A general idea has gone abroad regard- ing their taciturnity which does not accord with ray experience. Far from being averse to collo quial intercourse, they delight in it; none more welcome to an Indian wigwam than one who can talk freely. They pass the winter evenings in relating their adventures, hunting being their usual theme, or in telling stories ; and often have 192 INDIAN TRADITIONS. I heard the woods resound with peals of laugh- ter excited by their wit, for they too are witty in their own way. Their tradition of the flood {Mtcki a te- soJca, or "great tale,") is somewhat remarkable. The world having been overflowed by water, all mankind perished but one family, who em- barked in a large canoe, taking a variety of animals along with them. The canoe floated about for some time, when a musk-rat, tired of its confinement, jumped overboard and dived ; it soon reappeared, with a mouthful of mud, which it deposited on the surface of the water, and from this beginning the new world was formed. When the veracity of an Indian is doubted, he goints to heaven with his forefinger, and exclaims : — " He to whom we belong knows that what I say is true." No white man trusts more firmly in the vali- dity of a solemn oath than the Indian in this INDIAN MORALITY. 193 asseveration. Still it must be confessed that they are prone to falsehood; but they seem to allow themselves a much greater licence in this respect in their intercourse with the whites than amongst themselves. "When an Indian is about to enter a wigwam, he utters the word or sound " Quay " in a pe- culiar tone ; the word repeated from within is considered as an invitation to enter. Should he neglect to announce himself in this way he is considered as ill-bred — an unmannerly boor. The left-hand side of the wigwam as you enter is considered the place of honour ; here the father of the family and chief squaw take their station, the young men on the opposite side, and the women next to the door, or at the upper end of the fire-place, both ends being alike plebeian. When a person of respectability enters, the father, moving towards the door, resigns his place to his guest, places skins under him, and other- wise pays every attention to his comfort. They are extremely hospitable, and cheerfully share 194 INDIAN HABITS. their last morsel with the stranger who may be in want. Hospitality, however, is a virtue which civilization rarely improves. A good hunter always leaves his lodge by dawn of day, and seldom tastes food till he returns late at night. Hunting beavers is a most laborious occupation, and becomes more so in proportion to the scarcity of these animals; for this reason, that when a great nimaber of beavers occupy a lake, their places of retreat are in closer proximity to each other, and for the most part inhabited ; if the number be reduced, it is likely they will have the same places of retreat, and the hunter must bore through the ice, before he can ascer- tain whether they are inhabited or not. The sagacity of their dogs is truly surprising. The beaver house being first destroyed by the hunter, the dogs are urged by a peculiar call to scent out their retreats, which they never fail to do, whatever may be the thickness of the ice. They keep running about the borders of the lake, their noses close to the ground, and the moment THE INDIAN DIALECTS. 195 they discover a retreat, begin to bark and jump on the ice ; the hunter then cuts a hole with his trench, and with a stick which he carries along with him feels for the beaver ; should he find one, he introduces his bare arm into the hole, and seizing his prey by the tail, drags it out on the ice, where it is dispatched with a spear. There is less danger in this operation than one would imagine, for the beaver allows itself to be seized without a struggle, but some- times inflicts severe wounds on his captor after he is taken out of the water. When the retreat is not inhabited, the entrance to it is barred by sticks, and the hunter pro- ceeds to chisel again, and continues his operations until the beaver is either taken, or shut out from all his haunts, in which case he is compelled to return to the house to take breath, where he is either shot or caught in a trap. The lancjuage of these Indians is a dialect of the Sauteux or Bungee, intermixed with Cree, and a few words of French derivation. The greater part of them have a smattering of French 196 INDIAN DIALECTS. or English ; but the acquisition of a foreign language is extremely difficult to them, from the peculiar formation of their own, which wants the letter r. An Algonquin pronounces the word "marrow" "manno" or " mallo." Their dialect has all the softness of the Italian, but is extremely- poor and defective. ARRIVAL AT LES CHATS. 197 CHAPTER XV. EMBARK FOR THE INTERIOR — MODE OF TRAVELLING BY CANOES — LITTLE RIVER — LAKE NIPISSING — FRENCH RIVER — OLD STATION OF INDIAN ROBBERS — FORT MISSISSAGA — INDIANS — LIGHT CANOE-MEN. — SAULT STE. MARIE — .LAKE SUPERIOR — CANOE-MEN DESERT — RE-TAKEN — FORT WIL- LIAM — M. THIBAUD — LAC LA PLUIE AND RIVER INDIANS — "WHITE RIVER — NARROW ESCAPE — CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN ABOUT BAPTISM. On the S5tli April, 1833, I embarked on board of a steamboat at Lachine, and reached Hull on the 27th. Here the regular conveyance by land carriages and steamboat ended, and the traveller in those days was obliged to Vi^ait his passage by the canoes of shanty men, or hire a boat or canoe for himself. I had recourse to the latter expedient, and reached the post of the Chats, then in charge of my esteemed friend 198 ARRIVAL OF BRIGADE. Mr. McD 1, on the 30th. Captain Back arrived on the 1st of May, put ashore for a few supplies and my wards, and immediately re- embarked. The brigade arrived on the 2d, and the guide delivered me a letter from Mr. K , informing me that I was to consider myself merely as a passenger, the command of the men being entrusted to the guide by Governor Simpson's orders. This arrangement relieved me of much anxiety and trouble ; though I would rather have preferred undergoing any personal inconvenience to being placed under the command of an ignorant Canadian, who might use his " brief" authority in a way very offensive to my feelings, without being guilty of anything that I could complain of. My fears, however, were disappointed, as he showed every deference to my wishes, as well as the utmost courtesy to the other passengers, most of whom were of a rank not likely to find much consideration from a Canadian boatman ; they consisted of a young priest not yet ordained. DEPARTURE FROM LES CHATS. 199 an apprentice clerk, three youths who had been at their education in Lower Canada, and myself. The brigade consisted of three Montreal canoes, laden with provisions for the trip, and some tobacco for the southern department ; and manned by sixty Iroquois and Canadians, the latter engaged to winter, the former for the trip. The day was far spent when we left the portage of the Chats, and we encamped in the evening near the head of the rapids. The mode of travelling in canoes being now well known, I shall not detail the occurrences of each day, but confine myself to the narration of such incidents as may be most worthy of notice throughout the voyage. The moment we landed the tent was pitched by men employed for the purpose ; the other men unloaded the canoes, and carried the goods beyond high-water mark, where it was piled and covered with oil-cloths. It is the particular duty of the bowsman to attend to the canoe, to repair and pitch it when 200 CANOE TRAVELLING. necessary, and to place it in security when the cargo is discharged. In consideration of these services he is exempt from the duty of loading or unloading, liis wages are higher than those of the steersman, and he ranks after the guide. The latter generally messes with the gentlemen, his canoe always takes the lead in the rapids, but iu still water the post of honour is held by the best going canoe. The guide rouses the men in the morning ; the moment the call is heard, ** Leve, levc ! " the passengers spring upon their feet, tie up their beds, and if they are not smart about it, the tents go down about their cars, and they must finish the operation in the open air. Several of our men having already deserted, we encamped upon islands, when they could be found, or kept watch on the mainland. Our hour of departure was three o'clock, a.m. ; when tiie weather permitted we breakfasted at seven, dined at one or two o'clock, p.m., and encamped at sunset. In calm weather the canoes went abreast, singing in chorus and keeping time with the paddles. All was then gaiety, and, to appear- FORT COULONGE. 201 ancc, happiness ; but this is one of tliose bright spots in a voyageur's life which are few and far between. We reached Fort Coulongc on the 3d, and it being late, I took up my quarters with my worthy old bourgeois, Mr. S. Here we received some additional supplies of provisions for the crews and passengers. We arrived at Lac dcs AUumettcs on the 5th, where I put ashore merely to say hon jour to an old acquaintance. Wc encamped rather early this evening, to allow the men a little extra rest, on account of the laborious duty they had performed for some days before. Next day, when ascending the rapid of Roche Capitaine, the canoe in which I was passenger came in violent contact with another; but mine only sustained damage. The bow being stove in, the canoe began to fill ; we however gained the shore, to which fortunately we were close, at a leap, and lost no time in discharging the cargo. Drying the goods and repairing the canoe occupied us a good part of the day. We reached the Forks of Mattawin on the 202 LAKE HURON. 8th, where we found a small outpost belonging to the Fort Coulonge district, recently established for the purpose of securing the hunts of the Indians of this quarter, who were in the habit of trading with shanty men. Being no longer under any apprehensions of the men deserting, we now discontinued the watch and slept in comfort. The passage of the Little River was effected with much toil and difficulty, from the shallowness of the water. We entered Lake Nipissing on the 10th ; descended French River, a rapid and dangerous stream, without accident, and entered Lake Huron on the morning of the 12th. The guide pointed out to me a place near the mouth of the river where the Indians used to waylay the canoes on their passage to and from the interior; a sort of rude breastwork still marks the spot. After much destruction of life and property by the savages, they were eventually caught in their own toil; the voyageurs, instead of descending the river at this place, passed by land, and coming unawares on the Indians killed them all. We reached the post of the Cloche early on INDIANS. 203 the 13th, and spent two hours in the company of Mr. McB u, who entertained us most kindly ; and on the 14th looked in at Mississaga post, an establishment which appeared to possess but few attractions as a place of residence ; con- sisting of a few miserable log buildings, sur- rounded by a number of pine-bark wigwams, the temporary residence of the natives ; several of whom came reeling into the house after our arrival, there being an opposition party there. These Indians were, without comparison, the most uncouth, savage-looking beings I ever be- held ; mouth from ear to ear, cheek-bones re- markably high, low projecting forehead, hair like a horse's mane, and eyes red and swollen by conti- nual intoxication. American whisky had no doubt contributed to increase their natural deformity. After leaving this post we had a strong breeze of adverse wind for the remainder of the day, and encamped in consequence earlier than usual. On the following morning we were very early roused from our slumbers by the call of " Canot a lege," (light canoe). Our beds were tied up, tents 204 CANOE NAVIGATION. packed, canoes launched and loaded in an instant ; and we set off in pursuit of the mail, which we overtook at breakfast time, and found Mr. G. K th in charge, who had just returned from England, and was now proceeding to assume the charge of Lake Superior district. Mr. K th exchanged some of his men, who were found incapable of performing light canoe duty, for some of our best ; an arrangement that did not appear to please our guide much. The duty which the crew of a light canoe have to perform is laborious in the extreme, and re- quires men of the greatest strength and vigour to stand it. They are never allowed to remain more than four hours ashore by night, often only two or three ; during the day they are constantly urged on by the guide or person in command, and never cease paddling, unless during the few moments required to exchange seats, or while they take their hasty meals ashore. They are liberally plied with grog, well paid, and well fed, and seldom quit the service until it is hinted to them that the duty is become too hard for them. A SAULT STE. MARIE. 205 light canoe-man considers it quite a degradation to be employed in loaded craft. We arrived early on the 16th at the Company's establishment at Sault Sainte Marie, where there is a large depot of provisions for the pvirpose of supplying the canoes passing to and from the interior and the surrounding districts. The south side of the river is occupied by the Americans as a military post, and it vi^as gratifying to see the friendly intercourse that subsisted between the American officers and the gentlemen in the Com- pany's service. Would that the same good feel- ing were more universal between two nations of one blood and the same language ! The rapid which unites the waters of Lakes Huron and Superior is avoided by making a portage. The carrying of the canoes and goods to the upper end of this portage occupied the men till about noon, when we embarked on the " Sea of Canada," having Messrs. Bethune and McKenzie on board as passengers. We pro- ceeded about fifteen miles and encamped. We were ready to embark at the usual hour next VOL. I. K 206 CANOE-MEN DESERT. morning, but being prevented by the high wind, to make the best of the time we turned in again, and after a most refreshing nap got up to breakfast. The weather moderating soon after, all hands were ordered to embark, but all hands were not there ; four of them had deserted during the night, and were not missed until the crews mus- tered for embarkation. While we were holding a consultation regard- ing this unpleasant matter, an Indian canoe luckily cast up, and it was determined to despatch a party of Iroquois, conducted by a passenger in disguise, in pursuit of the fugitives. Another party was sent by land, and after an absence of about three hours returned with their prisoners. No criminals ever appeared more dejected than they ; so humble did they seem, that they got off with a slight reprimand. We reached the post of Michipikoton early on the morning of the 19th, and passed the re- mainder of the day waiting for despatches which Mr. K was preparing for the interior. We FORT WILLIAM. 207 left on the 20th, put ashore at the Pic on the 23d, where we dined with Mr. McMurray, and after experiencing much bad weather, adverse winds, together with showers of snow, we reached Fort William on the 28th, about noon. We found the grand depot of the North- West Company falling rapidly to decay, presenting in its present ruinous state but a shadow of departed greatness. It is now occupied as a petty post, a few Indians and two or three old voyageur^ being the sole representatives of the crowded throngs of former times. It must have been a beautiful establishment in its days of prosperity ; but the buildings certainly do not appear to have been erected with a view to durability. We here exchanged our large Montreal canoes for those of the North, (the former carrying seventy pack- ages of ninety pounds, the latter twenty-five, exclusive of provisions ;) and each of the pas- sengers had a canoe for his own accommodation — an arrangement that seemed to increase in no small degree the self-importance of some of our number. Our guide was now obliged to k2 208 M. TIIIBAUD. perform the duty of bowsman, still, however, retaining his authority over the vi^hole brigade. We bade adieu to Fort William and its hospi- table commander on the 29th. Mr. McI h had supplied all our vs^ants most liberally, but the men were now allowed only Indian corn and a small quantity of grease ; — a sad and unpleasing change for poor Jean Baptiste ; but he had no help but to submit, though not perhaps with the utmost " Christian resignation." Our men being now well disciplined, and our canoes comparatively light, we sped over our way at an excellent rate. We encamped on the 4th of June at one of the Thousand Lakes, and the canoes were drawn up before M. Thibaud (the priest) arrived. I was surprised to observe his frowning aspect on landing, and ascribed it to the circumstance of his being the " harse," or harrow, a term of derision applied to the slowest canoe. Calling me aside, however, he explained the cause of his discontent, which was very different from what I had surmised ; his crew, whenever they found themselves sufficiently far in the rear to be LAC LA PLUIE AND RIVER. 209 out of hearing, invariably' struck up an obscene song, alike unmindful of his presence and remon- strances ; and this day had not only sung, but indulcred in conversation the most indecent ima- gin able. This announcement appeared to me the more strange, that most of these young men had never before quitted home ; and I had always understood the authority of the priest to be, at least, equal to that of the parent. Although, therefore, I never had any very great reverence for the (so-called) successors of St. Peter, I yet felt for my fellow-traveller, and addressed the mis- creants who had insulted him in terms of grave reprehension, threatening them with severe punish- ment if such conduct should again be repeated. We arrived at the post of Lac de la Pluie, on the 8th of June ; and, after a short halt, and carrying our impedimenta across the portage on which the fort is situated, commenced the descent of Lac de la Pluie river, — a beautiful stream, running with a smooth, though strong current, and maintaining a medium breadth of about 200 yards. Its banks, which are clothed with verdure to the 210 INDIANS. water's edge, recede by a gradual slope until they terminate in a high ridge, running parallel to the river on both sides. This ridge yields poplar, birch, and maple, with a few pines, proving the excellence of the soil. The interior, however, is said to be low and swampy. We passed the residence of an old retired ser- vant of the Company, on the 9th, who, if I may judge from the appearance of his farm and the number of his cattle, must vegetate very much at his ease. Observing in the evening a large Indian camp, I requested the guide to put ashore for a little. We were received kindly, but in a manner quite diiferent to what I had been accustomed. The young men were drawn up on the shore, and eyed us with a saxage ferte in their looks, returning our salutation in a way that convinced us that we were at length among the " wild men of the woods." The weather being extremely hot, we found them in almost a complete state of nudity, with only a narrow shred of cloth around their loins. They speak the Sauteux language ; and I had much WHITE RIVER. 211 difficulty in making myself understood by them. In their phj^siognomy and personal appearance they exhibit all the characteristic features of the genuine aboriginal race ; and this party certainly appeared, one and all, to be " without a cross ; " but there had been long a trading post at Lac la Pluie, and I noticed, in a neighbouring camp, a lass with brown hair and pretty blue eyes. Where did she get them? After bartering some sturgeon with the Indians, and presenting them with a little tobacco, we parted good friends, and en- camped so near them as to be annoyed the whole night by the sound of their drum. On the following morning we entered the Lake of the Woods, and next morning White River, a very violent stream, full of falls and dangerous rapids. The portages are innumerable, and often close together. After crossing one of these por- tages, we observed, with astonishment, a number of people on the next portage. La Cave, about pistol-shot distance from us. They proved to be Mr. Hughes, formerly partner of the North- West Company ; Mr. Berens, a member of Committee, 212 A NARROW ESCAPE. and suite : they were painfully situated, in conse- quence of the loss of their bowsman, who, by missing a stroke with his pole, fell into the rapid, and was drowned : the steersman was saved with great difficulty. We got safe through this dangerous river, on the 15th ; but two of the men had a narrow escape in one of the last portages. Our guide here, as everywhere else, having a picked crew, pushed on, and left us considerably in the rear. Approaching a fall, Le Bonnet, where no traces of a portage could be discovered, the men unloaded the canoes, and commenced carrying the goods through the woods ; but the boutes (bowsmen and steersmen) determined on wading down with the canoes, the water being shallow, until they should come close to the fall ; where, by lifting them across a narrow point, they could place them in the smooth water beneath. The attempt was made accordingly, by the leading canoe ; but the rock over which the current flows being smooth, and covered with a slimy moss, the men slipped, and were in an in- stant precipitated over the fall. When we saw the A NARROW ESCAPE. 213 canoe rushing over the brink, with the poor fellows clinging to it, we all concluded they had reached the end of their voyage. Running down to the foot of the fall, which was about eleven feet high, having previously ordered a canoe to be carried across the point, and some shots to be fired to recall the guide, who was now nearly out of sight, I was astonished to find the canoe had not upset, although the men had got into it, and it was half full of water, and so near the shore that I ex- tended my arm to lay hold of the bow. The next moment, however, the stern having come within the influence of a whirlpool, it was hurried out into the middle of the stream, and dashed with such violence against a rock, that the crashing of the timbers was distinctly heard from the shore. This shock, which had nearly proved fatal to the men, threw the canoe into an eddy, or counter- current, which whirled it to the opposite shore, where it was about to sink when assistance came. In the evening, we arrived, at the post of Bas de la Riviere, in charge of an Orkney-man, by name Clouston, who had risen from the ranks, K 3 214 BAD WEATHER. and who, seeing what small fry he had to deal with, treated us somewhat superciliously. Our stock of provisions being exhausted, we applied to Maister Clouston for a fresh supply : he granted us what I thought very inadequate to our wants ; but he said it was all that was allowed by the Governor for the passage of the Lake. Here M. Thibaud found two men with a small canoe, who had been sent by the Bishop of Red River to convey him to his destination, waiting his arrival. We parted with feelings of mutual reffret. We left this post late on the 16th, and had proceeded but a short distance on the Lake, when a strong head wind compelled us to put ashore. We now experienced constant bad weather, never completing a day's sailing with- out interruption from some cause or other ; and in consequence of these delays, it was found necessary to curtail our allowance of provisions. On the 20th, we pitched our tents near a camp of Sauteux, from whom the men procured a small quantity of sturgeon, in exchange for some CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN. 215 articles of clothing. I was surprised to find Indians, in a quarter so remote from those tribes with whom I had hitherto been conversant, speaking a dialect which I understood perfectly : their erratic habits, and intercourse with the Crees and Algonquins, may perhaps account for this similarity of dialect. I entered into conversation with a shrewd old fellow, who had been often at Red River settle- ment. Among other questions, I asked him whether he had not been baptized ? "Baptized!" he exclaimed; "don't speak of it, my brother. Baptized — that I may go to the devil! Indians think a good Indian goes to the good place when he dies; but the priests send all to the evil one." I asked him how he made that out ? " Why, I learned it from the priests them- selves. When I first went tp Red River, I met a French priest, who earnestly besought me to be converted. I heard him attentively, and his words had a great efiect upon me ; but I had been told there was another priest there, who 216 EVILS OF DIVISION had different thoughts about religion, and I thought I would go to him too. He was very kind to me, and spoke nearly the same words as the French priest ; so that I thought there was no difference in their religions. He asked me if 1 would be baptized ? and I told him that I would; but I wanted to learn the French prayer. ' Ah ! my son,' he said, ' that must not be : if you adopt that bad religion, you will be burned for certain.' And he spoke so strong, that I almost thought he was right. But before I would do anything, I went to the French priest again, and told him what the English priest said to me ; and then said I would learn the English prayer. ' Ah ! my son,' said he, ' if you do so, it will lead you to perdition : all that pray after the English manner go to the fire.' And he said much more, and his words were very strong too; so I saw that I could be no better by forsaking the belief of my fathers, and I have not gone to French or English priest since." This is by no means a solitary case ; and it is one of the sore evils which arise from the cor- AMONG CHRISTIANS. 217 ruptiou of Christianity, and the divisions of Christians. Nor, in the case of creeds so opposite as those of Protestants and Roman Catholics — creeds as opposite as light and dark- ness — is it easy to point out a remedy. After all, it is surely better for these poor Indians to adopt some form of Christianity, however cor- rupt, than to remain in the darkness and debase- ment of heathenism. And if our missionaries would act upon the noble maxim of the greatest of the Apostles — " never to enter upon the sphere of another man's labours," — consequences so injurious would be avoided. If they have not so much Christianity and good sense as to do so of themselves, where there is the power, they should be compelled to do it. The Company have the power, but are too much occupied with matters which they deem more momentous, to waste a thought upon this. 218 SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS. CHAPTER XVI. CONTINUATIOlf OF THE VOYAGE — EUN SHORT OF PROVISIONS — dogs' flesh — KORWAY HOUSE — INDIAN VOYAGEUKS — ORDERED TO NE"W CALEDONIA — LAKE WINNIPEG — MACIN- TOSn's ISLAND SUBMERGED — CUMBERLAND HOUSE — CHIP- PEWEYAN AND CREE INDIANS — PORTAGE LA LOCHE — SCENERY— ATHABASCA— HEALTHINESS OF THE CLIMATE. High winds detained us in camp on the 21st. The crews of two canoes, having finished their last meal to-day, bartered some more of their clothes for dogs. We reached a small outpost called Berens House on the 23d, where we pro- cured a couple of sturgeon, and a dog valued at ten shillings, for which I gave my note of hand. I had a preein of this cynic mutton at breakfast ; and could not help thinking it would have made a most appropriate and philosophical addition to NORWAY HOUSE. 219 the larder of the wise man of the tub. The men, however, having been for some time on short commons, seemed to relish it. We supped lightly enough on the remainder of Mr. Clouston's bountiful supply, giving a share to the men. After a most tedious and miserable passage, we reached the outlet of Lake Winnipeg on the 24th, and arrived next morning at Norway House. Here the men were liberally supplied ; and I found myself at breakfast with a number of chief factors and chief traders, just arrived from their respective districts, and on their way with their valuable returns to York Factory. Captain Back was also here, having sent on his men and bag- gage under the command of Dr. King, intending himself to follow in a light canoe, after having forwarded his despatches to Europe. The day after my arrival, I was notified by one of the officials, that it was arranged that I should pass the summer here, giving such assistance to the gentleman in charge as might be required of me ; and that my future destina- tion should be determined upon at York Factory. 220 governor's HEADHiUARTEBS. I now passed mj time very agreeably, having just enough emplovment in the day-time to keep qS i/nnuiy and the company of several gentlemen, and, what I thought still better, that of a fair countrywoman,* in the evening. I was gratified to find that there existed here a far greater degree of intimacy between gentlemen of different ranks in the service, than in the Montreal department, where a clerk is considered as a mere hireling ; here, on the contrary, commissioned officers look upon clerks as candidates for the same rank which themselves hold, and treat them accordingly. The Grovemor, having taken up his residence for some years past in England, crosses the Atlantic once a year, and during his brief sojourn, Norway House forms his head-quarters. Here it is that the sham Council is held, and evervthins connected with the business of the interior arranged. Here also is the depot for die districts of Athabasca and McKenzie's River, which supplies all the provisions required for inland transport. These provisions are furnished * Itistresa of the establialuneiit. oui)i;iii:i) TO Ni.w cALKnoNrA, 221 \)y (lie Sfiskatclicwaii (Iislncl, or an- |)iiirli,is((I hy tiju Coinjjftiiy (Yum i.li.- colonist. h of iJcd Kiver, who Imvo no olJicr custoinoM. TIk! natives (jf thin (juart<;r speak a jarj^on of Cruc and SauLcux, wiuch suundM vcr^' liarshly. They nil luidfrstand Enj^lish, and some of them sjieak il (liiriiily. Many of tin in arc constantly employed as vo)a^eurs hetwecn Norway Houiio and York Faet(ny ; and notur perform tin? trip morr cxpedilionsly, or rrndi.T their cargoes in better eondilion (lian they. Of Christianity, tlu.'y have learned just a ; nnieh as { the party sent annually from New Caledonia for a supply of leather. 222 m'intoshs island submerged. The brigade having been despatched on the 27th, Mr. C. and I embarked on the 28th, and overtook it at the entrance of Lake Winnipeg. The crews being ashore, and enjoying themselves, we passed on ; but did not proceed far, ere the wind blew so violently as to compel us to put ashore. After a delay of about four hours, we " put to sea " again ; and the vdnd gradually abating as we proceeded, we encamped in the evening nearly opposite to Mcintosh's Island. This island, some years ago, presented an ex- tensive surface of land covered with wood : there is not now a vestige of land to be seen ; the spot where it existed being only known to voyagers by a shoal which is visible at low water. But not only have the islands been swept away, but the mainland along the west end of the lake seems gradually being encroached upon and engulphed by the waves ; an undeniable proof of which is, that the old post of Norway House, which formerly stood at a considerable distance from the water's edge, is now close to it, and the burial-ground is nearly all submerged. M. CONSTANT. 223 We arrived at the foot of Grand Rapid late on the 29th of July, and passed the portage on the 30th, assisted by the natives — Sauteux, Crees, and half-breeds. These live luxuriously on stur- geon, with little toil. Among them I observed two or three old Canadians, who could scarcely be distinguished from the natives by language, manners, or dress ; such persons, when young, having formed an attachment to some of the Indian young women, betake themselves to their half-savage mode of life, and very soon cannot be persuaded to quit it. We arrived on the 5th of August at Riviere du Pas, where an old Canadian, M. Constant, had fixed his abode, who appeared to have an abundance of the necessaries of life, and a large family of half-Indians, who seemed to claim him as their sire. We breakfasted sumptuously on fish and fowl, and no charge was made ; but a gratuity of tea, tobacco, or sugar is always given ; so that M. Constant loses nothing by his con- siderate attentions to his visitors. We reached Cumberland House on the 8th. 224 CHIPPEWEYANS AND CREES. Here I was cheered by the sight of extensive corn-fields, horned cattle, pigs and poultry, which gave the place more the appearance of a farm in the civiKzed world, than of a trading post in the far North-West; and I could not help envying the happy lot of its tenant, and con- trasting it with my own, which led me to the wilds of New Caledonia — to fare like a dog, with- out knowing how long my exile might be protracted. We arrived at the post of Isle a la Crosse, where we were detained a day in consequence of bad weather. This post is also surrounded by cultivated fields, and I observed a few cattle ; but the voice of the grunter was not heard. The Indians who frequent this post are chiefly Chippeweyans, with a few families of Crees. The former differ in features, language, and manners from any I had yet seen. Their face is of a peculiar mould, broad ; the cheekbone remark- ably prominent, chin small, mouth wide, with thick lips, the upper covered with beard; the body strongly built and muscular. They appear PORTAGE LA LOCHE. 225 destitute of the amiable qualities which charac- terise the Crees. Whenever we met any of them on our route, and asked for fish or meat, " Budt hoola,"* was the invariable answer; yet no Indians were ever more importunate than they in begging for tobacco. On the contrary, when we fell in with Crees, they allowed us to help ourselves freely, and were delighted to see us do so, receiving thankfully whatever we gave them in return. The features of the Crees are not so strongly marked as those of the Sauteux, although they are a kindred people ; yet they are as easily distinguishable from each other, as an Englishman from a Frenchman. We left Isle a la Crosse on the 12th, and without meeting with any adventure worthy of notice, reached the end of Portage la Loche about two o'clock p.m. of the following day, with canoe and baggage. In this, as in every other part of their territories, the Company use boats for the transport of property; but by a very * There is none. 226 SCENERY. judicious arrangement, much time and labour are saved at this portage, which is said to be twelve miles in length. Boats are placed at the upper and lower ends, so that the men have only to carry across the property, which, in truth, of itself is a sufficiently laborious operation for human beings. The people from the district of McKenzie's River come thus far with their returns, and receive their outfit in boats manned by half-breeds, who are hired at Red River for the trip. The prospect which the surrounding country presents from the upper end of the portage is very striking; and the more so from the sudden manner in which it bursts upon the view. You suddenly arrive at the summit of a remarkably steep hill, where, on looking around, the first object that attracts attention is a beautiful green hill standing on the opposite side of the deep glen, through which the clear Water River flows, forming the most prominent feature of an ex- tensive range, cut up by deep ravines, whose ATHABASCA. 227 sides are clothed with wood, presenting abeady all the beautiful variety of their autumnal hues ; while, at intervals, a glimpse was caught of the river meandering through the valley. In former times these hills were covered with herds of buffaloes, but not one is to be seen now. We once more proceeded down the stream, and arrived at Athabasca on the 21st of August, where we found Dr. King, who had been delayed some days repairing his boats ; Capt. Back having proceed onwards in a light canoe to fix on a winter residence. Fort Chippeweyan was, in the time of the North- West Company, next in importance to Fort William. Besides having several detached posts depending immediately upon itself, and carrying on a very extensive trade with the Chippeweyans, (the best hunters in the Indian country,) it served as depot for the districts of McKenzie's River, and Peace River. The trade of this district, although it bears no comparison to that of former times, is yet 228 TRADE BY BARTER. pretty extensive. It is still the depot for Peace River, and commands the trade with the Chip- peweyans. Trade is carried on in this quarter solely by barter, which secures the Company from loss, and is apparently attended with no incon- venience to the natives, who used formerly to take their supplies on credit. Beaver is the standard according to which all other furs are rated ; so many martens, so many foxes, &c., equal to one beaver. The trader, on receiving the Indian's hunt, proceeds to reckon it up according to this rule, giving the Indian a quill for each beaver ; these quills are again exchanged at the counter for whatever articles he wants. The people of this post subsist en- tirely on the produce of the country, fish, flesh, and fowl, of which there is the greatest abun- dance. Both soil and climate are said to be unfavourable to the cultivation of grain or vege- tables ; the attempt is made, however, and some- times with success. I took my departure from Athabasca on the BEAVER INDIANS. 229 24th of August, accompanied by Mr. Charles Ross, who had passed the summer there as locum tenens, and was now proceeding to assume the charge of his own post, Fort Vermillion, where we arrived on the 1st of September. This post is agreeably situated on the right bank of Peace River, having the river in front, and boundless prairies in the rear. The Indians attached to it are designated Beaver Indians, and their language is said to have some affinity to the Chippeweyan. This is, however, the only point of resemblance between them. The Beavers are a more diminutive race than the Chippe- weyans, and their features bear a greater resem- blance to those of the Crees. They are allowed to be generous, hospitable and brave ; and are distinguished for their strict adherence to truth. Most Indians boast of the murder of white men as a glorious exploit ; these, on the contrary, glory in never having shed the blood of one, although they often imbrue their hands in the VOL. I; L 230 FORT DUN VEGAN. blood of their kindred ; being very apt to quarrel among themselves, chiefly on account of their gallantry. When an illicit amour is detected, the consequence is frequently fatal to one of the parties ; but the unmarried youth, of both sexes, are generally under no restraint what- ever. I bade adieu to Mr. Ross, a warm-hearted Gael, on the 3d, and arrived at Fort Dunvegan on the 10th of September, then under the charge of Mr. Mcintosh, chief factor, where I met with a Highland welcome, and passed the time most agreeably in the company of a well educated gentleman. The Indians here are of the same tribe as those of Fort Vermillion, but are not guiltless of the blood of the whites. This post is also surrounded by prairies. A large farm is cultivated, yielding in favourable seasons a variety of vegetables and grain: but the crops are subject to injury from frost; sometimes are altogether destroyed. When the wind blows for some time from the west, it cools in its passage HEALTHINESS OF CLIMATE. 231 across the glaciers of the Rocky Mountains, to such a degree, that the change of temperature caused by it is not only severely felt in the vicinity of the mountains, but at a great distance from them, as far even as Red River. From the great age attained by many of the retired servants of the Company, who pass their lives in this country, the salubrity of the climate may fairly be inferred. Meeting a brigade of small canoes between Fort Vermillion and this place, and observing an old man with a white head and wrinkled face, sitting in the centre of one of them, I made up to him, and after salut- ing him ft la Fran^aise, presented him with a piece of tobacco — the Indian letter of introduc- tion. I inquired of him how long it was since he had left home. " Sixty-two years, Monsieur," was the reply ; and as the canoes assembled around us, he pointed out to me his sons, and his sons' sons, to the third and fourth generation. I heard of no malady which the white inhabit- ants are liable to, except the goitres ; caused, 1.2 232 CAUSE OF THE GOITRES. it is presumed, in part by the use of snow-water, and in part by the use of the river-water, which is strongly impregnated with clay, so much so, as sometimes to resemble a solution of the earth itself. SCENERY. 233 CHAPTER XVII. ARRIVAL OP MR. F. TROM CALEDONIA — SCENERY — LAND-SLIP — MASSACRE AT EORT ST. JOHN's — ROCKY MOUNTAIN PORT- AGE — ROCKY MOUNTAINS — MAGNIFICENT SCENERY — m'lEOD's lake —RECEPTION OF ITS COMMANDER BY THE INDIANS. Mr. Paul Fraser, a senior clerk, arrived from Caledonia with three canoes, on the 26th of Sep- tember, and on the 28th vv^e took our departure. Above Fort Dunvegan the current becomes so strong that the canoes are propelled by long poles, in using which the men had acquired such dexte- rity that we made much better progress than I could have expected. As we ascended the river, the scenery became beautifully diversified with hiU and dale and wooded valleys, through which there generally flowed streams of limpid water. 234 LAND-SLIP. I observed at one place a tremendous land-slip, caused by the water undermining the soil. Trees were seen in an inverted position, the branches sunk in the ground and the roots uppermost ; others with only the branches appearing above ground ; the earth rent and intersected by chasms extending in every direction ; while piles of earth and stones intermixed with shattered limbs and trunks of trees, contributed to increase the dread- ful confusion of the scene. The half of a huge hill had tumbled into the river, and dammed it across, so that no water escaped for some time. The people of Dunvegan, seeing the river sud- denly dry up, were terrified by the phenomenon, but they had not much time to investigate the cause : the river as suddenly reappeared, present- ing a front of nearly twenty feet in height, and foaming and rushing down with the noise of thunder. On the 3d of October we reached the tenantless Fort of St. John's, where a horrid tragedy was enacted some years ago — the commander of the post with all his men having been cut off by the MASSACRE AT FORT ST. JOHn's. 235 Indians. The particulars of this atrocious deed, as related to me by the gentleman at the head of the district at the time, were as follows : — It had been determined that the post of St. John's should be abandoned, and the establish- ment removed to the Rocky Mountain portage, for the convenience of the Tsekanies, who were excellent hunters, but who could not be well supplied from this post, on account of the great- ness of the distance. Unfortunately a quarrel had arisen about this time between the Indians of St. John's and the Tsekanies. The former viewed the removal of the post from their lands as an insult, and a measure that gave their enemies a decided superiority over them, and they took a very effectual method of disappointing them, Mr. Hughes, having sent off his men with a load of property for the new post, remained alone. This was the opportunity the Indians sought for, and they did not fail to take advantage of it. The unfortunate man had been in the habit of walking daily by the river side, and was taking his usual promenade the day after the departure 236 MASSACRE AT FORT ST. JOHn's. of his men, when he was shot down by two of the assassins. They then carried his body to his room and left it, and his blood still marks the floor. The men, altogether unconscious of the fate that awaited them, came paddling toward the landing- place, singing a voyageur's song, and just as the canoe touched the shore a volley of bullets was discharged at them, which silenced them for ever. They were all killed on the spot. The post has remained desolate ever since. Fort Dunvegan ■was also abandoned for some years, which reduced the natives to the greatest distress. As soon as intelligence was received of the catastrophe, a party of half-breeds and Crees, under the command of one of the clerks, was fitted out in order to inflict deserved punishment on the murderers ; but just as the party had got on the trail, and within a short distance of the camp, they received orders from the superin- tendent to return. These orders were no doubt dictated by feelings of humanity, as Mr. Mcintosh had learned that some Indians, who were not concerned in the ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 237 murder, ^vere in the same camp, and lie was apprehensive the innocent might be involved in the same punishment with the guilty. The most of them, however, were afterwards starved to death ; and the country having been abandoned by the Company, gave the natives occasion to remark, that the measure was dictated more by fear of them than by motives of humanity. The Rocky Mountains came in view on the 8th of October, and we reached the portage bear- ing their name on the 10th, the crossing of which took us eight days, being fully thirteen miles in length, and excessively bad road, leading some- times through swamps and morasses, then ascend- ing and descending steep hills, and for at least one-third of the distance so obstructed by fallen trees as to render it all but impassable. I con- sider the passage of this portage the most labo- rious duty the Company's servants have to perform in any part of the territory ; and, as the voyageurs say, " He that passes it with his share of a canoe's cargo may call himself a man." L 3 238 ROCKY MOUNTAINS. In the passage we came upon a large camp of Tsekanies, Mr. Eraser's customers. Their dialect is similar to that of the Beaver Indians, hut they understand the Cree, which is the medium of communication between Mr. F. and them. It thus appears that this language is understood from the shores of Labrador to the foot of the Rocky Mountains. After passing the portage, the Rocky Mountains reared their snow-clad summits all around us, presenting a scene of gloomy grandeur, that had nothing cheering in it. One scene, however, struck me as truly sublime. As we proceeded onward the mountains pressed closer on the river, and at one place approached so near that the gap seemed to have been made by the river forcing a passage through them. We passed in our canoes at the base of precipices that rose almost perpen- dicularly above us on either side to the height of 3,000 or 4,000 feet! After passing through these magnificent portals, the mountains recede to a considerable distance, the space intervening m'leod's lake. 239 between them and the river being a flat, yielding timber of a larger growth than I expected to find in such a situation. We arrived at McLeod's Lake — Mr. Fraser's post — on the 25th, where a number of Indians were waiting their supplies. They received us quite in a military style, with several discharges of fire-arms, and appeared delighted at the arrival of their chief. They seemed to be on the best possible terms together — the white chief and his red " tail." They are Tsekanies, and are reputed honest, industrious, and faithful. The outfit for this post is conveyed on horse- back from Stuart's Lake. A more dreary situ- ation can scarcely be imagined, surrounded by towering mountains that almost exclude the light of day, and snow storms not seldom occurring, so violent and long continued as to bury the establishment. I believe there are few situations in the country that present such local disadvan- tages; but there is the same miserable solitude everywhere ; and yet we find natives of England, Scotland, and Ireland devoting their lives to a 240 »i'leod's lake. business that holds forth such prospects! I re- mained with my new friend one day, enjoying the comforts of his eyry, and then set off for the goal of my long course, where I arrived on the 28th of October. Stuart's lake. 241 CHAPTER XVIIL AURIVAL AT NEW CALEDONIA — BEAUTIFUL SCENERY — INDIAN HOUSES — AMUSEjilENTS AT THE FORT — THREATENED ATTACK. OF INDIANS — EXPEDITION AGAINST THEil — BEEF-STEAKS — NEW CALEDONIAN FARE — MODE OF CATCHING SALMON — SIN- GULAR DEATH OF NATIVE INTERPRETER — INDIAN FUNERAL RITES — BARBAROUS TREATMENT OF "VTIDOWS. Fort St. Ja3ies, the depot of New Caledonia district, stands near the outlet of Stuart's Lake, and commands a splendid view of the surrounding country. The lake is about fifty miles in length, and from three to four miles in breadth, stretch- ing away to the north and north-east for about twenty miles ; the view from the Fort embraces nearly the whole of this section of it, which is Studded with beautiful islands. The western shore is low, and indented by a number of small 242 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. bays formed by wooded points projecting into the lake, the back-ground rising abruptly into a ridge of hills of varied height and magnitude. On the east the view is limited to a range of two or three miles, by the intervention of a high promontory, from which the eye glances to the snowy summits of the Rocky Mountains in the distant back -ground. I do not know that I have seen anything to compare with this charming prospect in any other part of the country ; its beauties struck me even at this season of the year, when nature having partly assumed her hybernal dress, everything appeared to so much greater disadvantage. The Indian village is situated in a lovely spot at the outlet of the lake, and consists of only five or six houses, but every house is occupied by several families. These buildings are of a very slight and simple construction, being merely formed of stakes driven into the ground ; a square piece of timber runs horizontally along the top of this wall, to which the stakes are fastened by strips of willow bark. This inclosure, which is INDIAN nOUSES. 243 of a square form, is roofed in by placing two strong posts at each gable, which support the ridge pole, on which the roof sticks are placed, one end resting on the ridge pole, and the other on the wall, the whole being covered with pine bark : there is generally a door at each end, which is cut in the wall after the building is erected. These apertures are of a circular form, and about two and a half feet in diameter, so that a stranger finds it very awkward to pass through them. In efiecting a passage you first introduce a leg, then bending low the body you press in head and shoulders ; in this position you will have some difficulty in maintaining your equilibrium, for if you draw in the rest of the body too quickl}^ it is a chance but you will find yourself with your head undermost : the natives bolt through them with the agility of a weasel. For some time after my arrival here, I had very little employment, there being a scribe already in the establishment, whose experience and industry required no assistance from me. 244 AMUSEMENTS AT THE FORT. I thus found myself a supernumerary — a cha- racter that did not suit me, but I was obliged to content myself for the present. We were joined early in winter by some of the gentlemen in charge of posts, when we managed to pass the time very agreeably. Mr. D , super- intendent of the district, played remarkably well on the violin and flute, some of us " wee bodies" could also do something in that way, and our musical soirees, if not in melody, could at least compete in noise, numbers taken into account, vnth any association of the kind in the British dominions. Chess, backgammon, and whist, com- pleted the variety of our evening pastimes. In the daytime each individual occupied himself as he pleased. When together, smoking, " spin- ning yarns" about dog racing, canoe sailing, and V amour ; sometimes politics; now and then an animated discussion on theology, but without bitterness ; these made our days fly away as agreeably as our nights. While thus pleasantly occupied, a piece of intelligence was received, which caused the THREATENED ATTACK OF INDIANS. 245 breaking up of our little society, and created some alarm. A party of seven or eight Indians having been drowned on their way to Alexandria, in autumn, their relatives imputed the misfortune to the whites. " Had there been no whites at Alexandria," said they, " our friends would not have gone there to trade; and if they had not gone there, they would not have been drowned : " ergo — the white men are the cause of their death, and the Indians must be avenged. Nothing, however, was known of their hostile intentions until winter, when Mr. F. had occasion io send a man to Stuart's Lake with despatches, who, on arriving opposite to the Indian camp, found himself suddenly surrounded by the natives. They advanced rapidly upon him, brandishing their arms, and uttering horrid yells, and would have dispatched him on the spot but for the interference of one of themselves, who nobly threw himself between the Canadian and the muzzles of the guns that were levelled at him, and beckoned him to flee. He took to his heels 246 EXPEDITION AGAINST accordingly, and never looked behind him till he reached the fort. A little before Mr. Fisher had learned from his home guards that an attack on the fort was in- tended, and that they had been solicited by their neighbours to join in it, but had refused. So far, indeed, from wishing to injure the whites, they consented to carry the despatches which conveyed the information I have just mentioned. As Mr. F. urgently requested that assistance should be afforded him with as little delay as possible, it was determined that I should forth- with proceed to Alexandria, accompanied by Waccan, the interpreter, and eight men well armed. Passing Fraser's Lake and Fort George posts, we arrived at the Indian winter camp, which we found abandoned ; but a well beaten track led from it in the direction of Alexandria, a cu-cum- stance which made us apprehensive that our aid might come too late, and prompted us to redouble our speed. Our party consequently was soon THE INDIANS. 247 very much scattered — a most unmilitary procedure — which might have proved fatal to ourselves, while we thought of relieving our friends. The interpreter, myself, and two Iroquois, forming the advanced guard of the grand armt/i which consisted of full six men, still considerably in the rear, on turning a point found ourselves immediately in front of the camp. We were thus as much taken by surprise as those whom we wished to surprise ; but without hesitating a moment we rushed up the bank, and were instantly in the midst of the camp. The uproar was tremendous, the Indians seized their arms with the most threatening gestures and savage yells, and it would have been impossible for us to execute our orders — which were to seize the ringleader only — without a fierce struggle and bloodshed on both sides ; and though more reso- lute, perhaps, than our enemies, we were by far the weaker party, their numbers being at least ten to one of ours. Happily, however, there was an Indian (one 248 BEEF-STEAKS. of our friends) from Alexandria, in the camp, who, as soon as he could make himself heard, informed us that the affair had been already arranged to the satisfaction of both parties. Thus terminated our expedition, without bloodshed and without laurels. A few days earlier it might have been otherwise ; nor was Mr. F. without blame in neglecting to advise us of the arrange- ment. We continued our course towards Fort Alex- andria, and reached it late in the evening. My unexpected appearance gave my old bourgeois of Two Mountains an agreeable surprise. Having eaten nothing since morning, we made sad havoc of his beefsteaks and potatoes. " Well, Mac," said he, " to judge from your appetite, the air of New Caledonia seems to agree wonderfully with you. Pray how do you like the beef-steaks ? " '* Never tasted anything better," said I. Next morning he requested me to accompany him to the store, as he said, to see a hind-leg DUTIES AT THE DESK. 24 of the steer which liad furnished me with my steaks. I approached it, and lo ! it was the hind-leg of a horse ! The beef-steaks, or rather horse-steaks, were again presented at breakfast, and I confess I had not the same rehsh for them as at supper, but my repugnance — such is the effect of habit — was soon overcome. I remained a few days here for the sake of repose, and then returned. On the approach of spring, my fellow-subordinate, Mr. McKenzie, dissatisfied with the service, left for the east side of the mountains, and I took his place at the desk, the duties of which, although by no means harassing, left me but little leisure. The accounts of all the posts in the district, eight in number, were made up here; I had also to superintend the men of the establishment, ac- company them on their winter trips, and at- tend to the Indian trade. But even if the duty had been more toilsome, I had every induce- ment to perform it cheerfully, as Mr. Dease was one of the kindest and most considerate of men. 250 NEW CALEDONIAN FARE. On the 5th of May Mr. Dease took his de- parture for Fort Vancouver, with the returns of his district, which might be valued at 11,000/. The outfit, together with servants' wages and incidental expenses, amounted to about 3,0001., leaving to the Company a clear profit of about 8,000/. I was appointed to the charge of Stuart's Lake during the summer, with four men to perform the ordinary duties of the establishment — making hay, attending to gardens, &c. A few cattle were introduced in 1830, and we now began to derive some benefit from the produce of the dairy. Our gardens (a term applied in this country to any piece of ground under cultivation) in former times yielded potatoes ; nothing would now grow save turnips. A few carrots and cabbages were this year raised on a piece of new ground, which added to the luxuries of our table. Heaven knows, they were much wanted, for the other fare was scarcely fit for dogs ! In the early part of the season it consisted entirely of salmon, which this MODE OF CATCUIXG SALMON. 251 year was of the worst quality, having been two years in the store. A few sturgeon, however, of enormous* size, were caught, whose flesh was the most tender and delicious I had ever eaten, and would have been considered a delicacy by Apicius himself; it need not be wondered at then that the capture of one caused universal joy. The salmon (the New Caledonian stafi" of life) ascend Frazer's River and its tributaiies, from the Pacific in immense shoals, proceeding towards the sources of the streams until stopped by shallow water. Having deposited their spawn, their dead bodies are seen floating down the current in thousands; few of them ever return to the sea ; and in consequence of the old fish perishing in this manner, they fail in this quarter every fourth year. The natives display a good deal of ingenuity in catching them. Where the current and depth of water permit, they bar it across by means of stakes driven into the bottom with much labour, and standing about six inches * BeUuga? 252 MODE OF CATCHING SALMON. apart ; these are strongly bound to a piece of timber, or " plate," running along the top ; stays, or supporters, are placed at intervals of ten or twelve feet, the upper end bearing against the plate so as to form an angle with the stream. Gaps are left in the works of sufficient size to admit the varveaux, or baskets, in which the fish are taken. After the whole is finished, square frames of wicker-work, called keys, are let down against the upper side, to prevent the fish from ascending, and at the same time to allow the water a free passage. The keys must be kept entirely free from filth, such as branches, leaves, &c., otherwise the whole works would soon be swept away. The baskets are of a cylindrical form, about two and a half feet in diameter at the mouth, and terminate in a point of four or five inches. When the fishing is over, all the materials are removed, and replaced the ensuing year with equal labour. To preserve the fish for future consumption the following process is adopted. The back being RABBITS. 253 split up, and the back-bone extracted, it is hung by the tail for a few days ; then it is taken down and distended on splinters of wood ; these are attached to a sort of scaffold erected for the pur- pose, where the fish remains till sufficiently dry for preservation. Even in dry seasons, during this process, the ground all round the scaffold is thickly covered with large maggots ; but in wet seasons the sight becomes much more loathsome. I have already observed that the salmon fail periodically, and the natives would consequently be reduced to the utmost distress, did not the goodness of Providence furnish them with a sub- stitute. Rabbits are sent to supply the place of the salmon ; and, singular as it may appear, these animals increase in number as the salmon de- crease, until they swarm all over the country. When the salmon return, they gradually dis- appear, being destroyed or driven away by their greatest enemy, the lynx, which first appear in smaller, then in greater numbers ; — ootli they and their prey disappearing together. As to the VOL. L M 254 SINGULAR DEATH. cause that induces those animals to appear and disappear in this manner, I cannot take upon myself to explain. In the course of this summer one of our inter- preters, a native, lost his life in rather a singular manner. He had made a bear-trap, and wishing to ascertain how it would work, tried his own weight on the spring, which yielded but too readily, and crushed him in so dreadful a manner that he only survived his experiment but a few houi's. As he had withdrawn from the Company's service this year, his body was disposed of after the manner of his own people, except that it was buried instead of being burned ; this, however, was the first instance of an interment, it being introduced through our influence in pity to the unfortunate widows, who are exposed to the cruellest tortures at the burning of the body. I never beheld a more affectincr scene than the present. Immediately as the coffin was lowered into the grave, the widow threw herself upon it, shrieking and tearing her hair, and could only be IXDIAN FL->-ERAL RITES. 255 removed bv main force : several other females, relatives of the deceased, were also assembled in a group hard by, and evinced all the external symptoms of extreme grief, chanting the death- song in a most lugubrious tone, the tears stream- ing down their cheeks, and beating their breasts. The men, however, even the brothers of the de- ceased, showed no emotion whatever, and as soon as the rites were ended, moved off the ground, followed by the female mourners, who soon after were seen as gay and cheerful as if they had returned from a wedding. The widow, however, still remained by the grave, being obliged to do so in conformity with the customs of her nation, which required that she should mourn day and night, until the relatives of the deceased should collect a sufficiency of viands to make a feast in honour of his bones. As alreadv observed, the bodies were formerlv burned ; the relatives of the deceased, as well as those of the widow, being present, all armed : a funeral pile was erected, and the body placed m2 256 BARBAROUS TREATMENT upon it. The widow then set fire to the pile, and was compelled to stand by it, anointing her breast with the fat that oozed from the body until the heat became insupportable : when the wretched creature, however, attempted to draw back, she was thrust forward by her husband's relatives at the point of their spears, and forced to endure the dreadful torture until either the body was reduced to ashes, or she herself almost scorched to death. Her relatives were present merely to preserve her life ; when no longer able to stand they dragged her away ; and this in- tervention often led to bloody quarrels ! The body being burned, the ashes were collected in a box and given in charge to the widow, who carried them about with her until the feast was prepared, when they were taken from her, and deposited in a small hut or placed upon the top of a wooden pillar neatly carved, as their final resting-place. During this interval she was in a state of the most wretched slavery ; every child in the village OF WIDOWS. 257 might command lier and beat her unmercifully if they chose, no one interfered. After the feast, however, she regained her freedom, and along with that the privilege of incurring the risk of another scorching. Our interference relieved them from the most cruel part of the ceremony ; the temporary state of slavery is still continued. 258 AMPLE SUPPLIES. CHAPTER XIX. INDIAN FEAST — ATTEMPT AT DRAliUTIC EEPKESENTATION — KELIGION — ORDERED TO PORT ALEXANDRIA — ADVANTAGES OP THE SITUATION — SENT BACK TO FORT ST. JAMES — SOLI- TUDE — PUNISHMENT OP INDIAN MURDERER — ITS CONSE- QUENCES — HEROIC ADVENTURE OP INTERPRETER. Mr. Dease arrived from Fort Vancouver on the 5th of September, and expressed himself highly- gratified with the appearance our "gardens" presented ; an ample stock of salmon had also been laid in, so that we had nothing to fear from want, which sometimes had been severely felt. In the beginning of November, our despatches from the east side of the mountains came to hand, usually a joyful event, but saddened this year by the intelligence we received, that our excellent superintendent was about to leave us, having INDIAN FEAST. 259 obtained permission to visit the civilized world for medical advice ; — the doctor was only 5,000 miles off! In the beginning of the winter we were invited to a feast held in honour of a great chief, who died some years before. The person who delivered the invitation stalked into the room with an air of vast consequence, and strewing our heads with down, pronounced the name of the presiding chief, and withdrew without uttering another syllable. To me the invitation was most accept- able : although I had heard much of Indian feasts, I never was present at any. Late in the evening we directed our steps towards the "banqueting house," a large hut temporarily erected for the occasion. We found the numerous guests assembled and already seated around " the festive board ; " our place had been left vacant for us, Mr. Dease taking his seat next to the great chief, Quaw, and we, his Meewidiyazees (little chiefs), in succession. The company were disposed in two rows : the chiefs and elders being. seated next the wall, formed 260 INDIAN FEAST. the outer, and the young men the inner row; an open space of about three feet in breadth intervening between them. Immense quantities of roasted meat, bear, beaver, siffleu or marmot, were piled up at intervals, the whole length of the building ; berries mixed up with rancid salmon oil, fish roe that had been buried underground a twelve- month, in order to give it an agreeable flavour,, were the good things presented at this feast of gluttony and flow of oil. The berry mixture, and roes were served in wooden troughs, each having a large wooden spoon attached to it. The enjoyments of the festival were ushered in with a song, in which all joined : — " I approach the village, Ya ha he ha, ya ha ha ha ; And hear the voices of many people, Ya ha, &c. The barking of dogs, Ya ha, &c. Salmon is plentiful, Ya ha, &c. The berry season is good, Ya ha, &c. After the song commenced the demolition of the mountains of meat, which was but slowly INDIAN FEAST. 261 effected, notwithstanding the unremitting and strenuous exertions of the guests. The greatest order, however, was maintained ; the relatives of the deceased acted as stewards, each of them seiz- ing a roasted beaver, or something else, squatted liimself in front of one of the guests, and present- ing the meat, which he held with both his hands (males and females officiating), desired him to help himself. If the guest appeared backward in the attack, he was pressed, in the politest terms, to eat " Now, I pray you, tear away with a good will ;" — " I am glad to see you eat so strongly;" — " Come now, stuff yourself with this fine piece of fat bear." And stuff himself he must, or pay a forfeit, to avoid a catastrophe. But having paid thus, and acknowledged himself fairly overcome by his host's politeness, he is spared any further ex- ertions, and his viands are no longer presented to him in this way, but placed in a dish beside him. Well aware of our inability to maintain the honour of our country in a contest of this kind, we paid our forfeit at the commencement of the M 3 262 ATTEMPT AT onslauglit, reserving our portions to be disposed of at home. The gormandizing contest ended as it began, with songs and dances ; in the latter amusement, however, few were now able to join; afterwards ensued a rude attempt at dramatic representation. Old Quaw, the chief of Nekaslay, first appeared on the stage, in the character of a bear — an animal he was well qualified to personate. Rushing from his den, and growling fiercely, he pursued the huntsman, the chief of Babine portage, who de- fended himself with a long pole; both parties maintained a running fight, until they reached the far end of the building, where they made their exit. Enter afterwards a jealous husband and his wife, wearing masks (both being men). The part these acted appeared rather dull ; the husband merely sat down by the side of his " frail rib," watching her motions closely, and neither allowing her to speak to nor look at any of the young men. As to the other characters, one personated a deer, another a wolf, a third a strange Tsekany. The bear seemed to give the spectators most delight. DRAMATIC REPRESENTATION, 263 The scene was interesting, as exhibiting the first rude attempts at dramatic representation of a savage people ; and it served, in some measure, to efface the impression made by the somewhat dis- gusting spectacle previously witnessed. The affair concluded by an exchange of presents, and the party broke up. Two young men, natives of Oregon, who had received a little education at Red River, had, on their return to their own country, introduced a sort of religion, whose groundwork seemed to be Christianity, accompanied with some of the heathen ceremonies of the natives. This religion spread with amazing rapidity all over the country. It reached Fort Alexandria, the lower post of the district, in the autumn ; and was now embraced by all the Nekaslayans. The ceremonial consisted chiefly in singing and dancing. As to the doctrines of our holy religion, their minds were too gross to comprehend, and their manners too corrupt to be influenced by them. They applied to us for in- struction, and our worthy chief spared no pains to give it. But, alas ! it is for the most part labour in 264 RELIGION. vain. Yet, an impression seemed to have been made on a few ; and had there been missionaries there at the time, their efforts might have proved successful. But the influence of the " men of medicine," who strenuously w^ithstand a religion which exposes their delusive tricks, and conse- quently deprives them of their gains, — together with the dreadful depravity everywhere prevalent, — renders the conversion of the Tekallies an object most difficult to accomplish. It is a general opinion among Christians, that there exists no nation or people on earth who are entirely ignorant of a Supreme Being. I shall contrast the language of this tribe with that of the Sauteux or Ojibbeway, and let the reader judge for himself. I have heard a heathen Ojibbeway, when giving a feast, express himself thus : " The great Master of Life, he who sees us and whom we cannot see, having done me charity, I invite you, my brother, to partake of it." On a like occasion, a Takelly describes the manner in which he killed his game, but never alludes to a deity. RELIGION. 265 When an Ojibbeway wishes to confirm the truth of what he says beyond a doubt, he points to heaven and exclaims, " He to whom we belong hears that what I say is true." The Takelly says, " The toad hears me." You ask a Takelly what becomes of him after death, he replies, " My life shall be extinct, and I shall be dead." Not au idea has he of the soul, or of a future state of rewards and punishments. The Ojibbeway answers, *' After death my soul goes either to a happy land, abounding with game and every delight ; or to a land of misery, where I shall suffer for ever from want. Whether it go to the good or bad place depends on my good or bad conduct here." In fact the Takelly language has not a term in it to express the name of Deity, spirit, or soul. When the Columbia religion was introduced among them, our interpreters had to invent a term for the Deity — Yagasita— the "Man of Heaven." The only expression I ever heard them use that conveyed any idea whatever of a superior Being is, that when the salmon fail, they 266 ORDERED TO FORT ALEXANDRIA. say, " The Man who keeps the mouth of the river has shut it up with his red keys, so that the salmon cannot get up." One of our gentlemen, a member of the Roman Catholic Church, teach- ing the Takellies to make the sign of the cross, with the words used on the occasion, his inter- preter translated them, " Au nom du Pere, de son Frere, et puis de son petit Gar9on ! " (In the name of the Father, his Brother, and his little Boy !) The accompts and despatches for head-quarters being finished in the beginning of March, I was ordered to convey them to Fort Alexandria, to the charge of which post I was now appointed. This post is agreeably situated on the banks of Frazer's River, on the outskirts of the great prairies. The surrounding country is beautifully diversified by hill and dale, grove and plain ; the soil is rich, yielding abundant successive crops of grain and vegetable, unmanured ; but the crops are sometimes destroyed by frost. The charming locality, the friendly disposition of the Indians, and better fare, rendered this post one of the most agree- able situations in the Indian country. In spring. SENT BACK TO FORT ST. JA3IES. 267 moreover, the country swarms witli game — phea- sants and a small species of curlieu in the imme- diate vicinity, and ducks and geese within a short distance. The sport was excellent, and, with the amusement the cultivation of my garden afforded me, enabled me to vegetate in great comfort — a comfort I was not destined long to enjoy. Mr. Ogden, chief factor, arrived from Fort Vancouver about the end of May, and Mr. Fisher from Stuart's Lake a few days afterwards ; and having consulted together, determined that I should retrace my steps to Stuart's Lake without delay. When I arrived at Fort St. James its dreadful solitude almost drove me to despair. I found myself sitting alone in the halF where my late excellent bourgeois and friends had passed the time so happily, and I felt a depression of spirits such as I never experienced before. Fortunately for me, my old friend Mr. Fraser, a gentleman of a gay and lively disposition, arrived soon after, and continued with me for the re- mainder of the season, and his company soon drove melancholy away. 268 PUNISHMENT OF INDIAN MURDERER. The particulars of an affair which had occurred here some years before, and threatened the most serious consequences to the post, were about this time related to me by Waccan, the inter- preter. A native of Frazer's Lake had murdered one of the Company's servants, and, strange to say, no steps were taken to punish him ; lie concealed himself [some time, and finding he had nothing to apprehend, returned to his village. At length he was led by his evil genius to visit Stuart's Lake, then under the command of a Douglas. Douglas heard of his being in the village, and though he had but a weak garrison, determined that the blood of the white man should not be unavenged. The opportunity was favourable, the Indians of the village were out on a hunting excursion, the murderer was nearly alone. He proceeded to the camp accompanied by two of his men, and executed justice* on the murderer. On their return in the evening, the Indians learned what had happened, and enraged, determined to re- * " Wild justice,"— Bacon. ITS CONSEQUENCES. 269 taliate. Aware, however, that Douglas was on his guard, that the gates were shut and could not be forced, they resolved to employ Indian stratagem. The old chief accordingly proceeded to the Fort alone, and knocking at the gate desired to be admitted, which was granted. He imme- diately stated the object of his visit, saying that a deed had been done in the village which sub- jected himself and his people to a heavy responsi- bility to the relatives of the dead ; that he feared the consequences, and hoped that a present would be made to satisfy them ; and continuing to converse thus calmly, Mr. Douglas was led to believe that the matter could easily be arranged. Another knock was now heard at the gate : " It is my brother," said the chief, " you may open the gate ; he told me he intended to come and hear what you had to say on this business." The gate was opened, and in rushed the whole Nekasly tribe, the chief's brother at their head ; and the men of the Fort were overpowered ere 270 PRESENCE OF MIND they had time to stand on their defence. Douglas, however, seized a wall-piece that was mounted in the hall, and was about to discharge it on the crowd that was pouring in upon him, when the chief seized him by the arms, and held him fast. For an instant his life was in the utmost peril. Sur- rounded by thirty or forty Indians, their knives drawn, and brandishing them over his head with frantic gestures, and calling out to the chief, " Shall we strike ? shall we strike ?" The chief hesitated ; and at this critical moment the interpreter's wife* stepped forward, and by her presence of mind saved him and the establishment. Observing one of the inferior chiefs, who had always professed the greatest friendship for the * This woman is the daughter of Mr. James MacDougal, a gentleman who had a chief hand in the settlement of the dis- trict. He served the Company for a period of thirty-five years, enduring all the hardships that were in his time in- separable from an Indian trader's life; and was dismissed from their service, in old age, without a pension, to starve on such little savings as he had effected out of his salary. He is still alive (1841), struggling with adversity. OF interpreter's wife. 271 whites, standing in the crowd, she addressed herself to him, exclaiming, " What ! you a friend of the whites, and not saj a word in their behalf at such a time as this ! Speak ! you know the murderer deserved to die ; according to your own laws the deed was just; it is blood for blood. The wliite men are not dogs ; they love their kindred as well as you; why should they not avenge their murder ? " The moment the heroine's voice was heard the tumult subsided ; her boldness struck the savages with awe ; the chief she addressed, acting on her suggestion, interfered ; and being seconded by the old chief, who had no serious intention of injuring the whites, was satisfied with showing them that they were fairly in his power. Mr. Douglas and his men were set at liberty ; and an amicable con- ference having taken place, the Indians departed much elated with the issue of their enterprise. A personal adventure of Waccan's is worth recording. An interpreter, a Cree half-breed, had been murdered by the Indians of Babine post with circumstances of great barbarity ; and 272 HEROIC ADVENTURE the perpetrators of the deed were allowed to exult in the shedding of innocent blood with impunity, one feeble, ineffectual attempt only having been made to chastise them. Waccan, however, determined that the matter should not end thus, the victim being his adopted brother. Having been sent to Babine post with an Indian lad, he learned from him that the murderers were encamped in a certain bay on Stuart's Lake, and resolved to seize the long wished-for opportunity of revenge ; but fearing for his companion's safety more than his own, he landed him at a consider- able distance from the camp, directing him to make the best of his way home if he 'should hear many shots. He then paddled down as near the camp as he could without being discovered, and landing, threw off every article of clothing save a shred round his loins ; and with his gun in the one hand, and dagger in the other, proceeded to the spot. Having approached suflSciently near to see all that passed in the encampment, he squatted among the bushes, and watching his opportunity, OF INTERPRETER. 273 "picked off" the ringleader; then rushing from his covert, and giving the wax whoop, he planted his dagger in his heart almost before the Indians had time to know what had happened. Seeing the infuriated " avenger of blood '* in the midst of them, they fled precipitately to the woods. Waccan dared them to revenge the death of the *' dead dog " who had murdered his brother. " Come," said he, " you that were so brave at Babine Lake, and danced round the body of him whom you did not face, but knocked down when his back was to you, now is your time to show yourselves men." No one answering the challenge, he shouldered his gun, walked along the beach to his canoe, and paddling leisurely off from the shore, sang the Cree song of triumph. 274 ArroiNTED to fort george. CHAPTER XX. APPOINTED TO THE CHABGE OP POET GEORGE — MURDEE OP ME. tale's men — MTSTEEIOTJS LOSS OF ME. LINTON AND PAMILT — ADVENTUEES OF LEATHEE PAETt — FAILURE OP CROPS — INFLUENZA. In the beginning of September, Mr. Ogden arrived from Fort Vancouver, and I was appointed by him to the charge of Fort George, whither I proceeded forthwith. Mr. Linton, my predeces- sor, was directed to wait the arrival of the party sent to Jasper's house for a supply of leather, ere he took his departure for Chilcotin, an outpost of Fort Alexandria. Fort George was established a few years ago, and passed through the bloody ordeal ere yet the buildings were completed. The gentleman in MURDER OF MR. YALE S MEN. 275 charge, Mr. Yale, had left his men at woik, and gone on a visit to Fort St. James, where he only remained a few days ; on his return he found his men had been treacherously murdered by the Indians during his absence. Their mangled bodies were found in one of the houses, with one of their own axes by their side, which evidently had been the instrument of their destruction. The poor men were in the habit of retiring to rest during the heat of the day, and were despatched while they slept. A great change has come over this people since that time ; they are now justly considered the best disposed and most industrious Indians in the dis- trict. The situation of the post is exceedingly dreary, standing on the right bank of Frazer's River, having in front a high hill that shades the sun until late in the morning, and in the midst of " woods and wild?, whose melancholy gloom " is saddening enough. Yet it has its agremenSi its good returns, — the 7ie plus ultra of an Indian trader's happiness, — its good Indians, and its good fare ; the produce of the soil and dairy. 276 MYSTERIOUS LOSS Poor Linton had remained with me till late in autumn ; when the cold weather setting in with unusual rigour, the ice began to drift on the river, rendering the navigation already dangerous ; and no accounts having been received of the leather party, he determined to embark for his destination without further loss of time. He, alas ! had al- ready waited too long. Having occasion in the beginning of winter to send down a messenger to Fort Alexandria, I was surprised to see him two days after enter the fort, accompanied by one of Mr. Fisher's men, who brought me the melan- choly tidings of Mr. L.'s death, part of his bag- gage having been found by the natives among the ice. Eight souls had perished, no one knows how ; Mr. L., his wife and three children, an interpreter, his wife and one child. Some suspicions attached to a disreputable family of Indians who were known to be encamped on the banks of the river at the time ; but it is more probable that the catastrophe occurred in a rapid not far from this post, as a dog which the party had with them came back at an early hour OF MR. LINTON AND FAMILY. 277 the day after their departure. This misfortune threw a gloom over the whole district, where Linton was much beloved, and his death, so sud- den and mysterious, made the blow be felt more severely. z Before this sad intelligence reached us, the safety of the leather party had become a source of deep anxiety. They had been expected in October, and no accounts had been received of them in the month of December. Having for- warded Mr. Fisher's despatches to head-quarters, I received orders from Mr. Ogden to proceed to Jasper's house, in order, if possible, to obtain information regarding them ; which I eagerly obeyed, setting off with five men, and sledges loaded with provisions, drawn by dogs. We had not proceeded far, however, when we met the truants all safe and sound. Their non-arrival in the fall was occasioned by the winter setting in unprecedentedly early. They experienced the utmost difl5culty in crossing the Rocky Mountains, from the great depth of snow that had alread}' fallen ; and when VOL. I. N 278 ADVENTURES OF they reached the heights of Frazer's River, they found the ice beginning to form along its shores. They persevered, however ; sometimes forcing their way through the ice, sometimes carrying the canoes and property overland where the pas- sage was blocked up by the ice. But all their efforts proved unavailing, for they were at length completely frozen in. Their prospects were now most disheartening. Their remaining provisions would only suflSce for four days on short allowance, and they had a journey of fifteen days before them, whichever way they should direct their course. Some of the men yielded to despair, but the greater part cheerfully embraced Mr. Anderson's views. Those only who are unacquainted with the Canadian voyageurs will deny them the possession of quali- ties of the highest value in this country — ready obedience to their superiors, patience of fatigue and hardship, and unyielding perseverance under the most trying difficulties, so long as their leaders show them the way. Mr. Anderson having secured the property e7i cache, determined to LEATHER PARTY. 279 return to Jasper's house, in order to procure at least a part of the much wanted supply of leather. On their way back they had the good fortune to light upon a stray horse, which they converted into provender : they also shot a moose deer ; and thus providentially supplied, they suffered little from want. On arriving at the post, they found to their sad disappointment that nothing could be got there, except some provisions ; it was therefore necessary to proceed to Fort Edmonton, at least 400 miles distant, with but one intermediate post. They succeeded in reacliing it, though in a most deplorable condition, half starved and half frozen, none of the party being provided with winter clothing ; but they were most hospitably received by the kind-hearted bourgeois Mr. Rowand ; and, after remaining a few days to recruit their strength in this land overflowing with fat and pemmican, and receiving their supplies, they set off on their return, and reached their destination without accident. n2 280 FAILURE OF CROPS. Farming on a small scale had been attempted here by my predecessor, and the result was such as to induce more extensive operations. I re- ceived orders, therefore, to clear land, sow and plant, forthwith. These orders were in'part carried into effect in the autumn. Four acres of land were put in a condition to receive seed, and about the same quantity at Fort Alexandria. Seed was ordered from the Columbia, and handmills to grind our grain. Pancakes and hot rolls were thenceforward to be the order of the day ; Babine salmon and dog's flesh were to be sent — " to Coven- try!" The spring, however, brought with it but poor prospects for pancakes ; the season was late beyond all precedent; the fields were not sown until the 5th of May ; they, nevertheless, pro- mised well for some time, but cold weather ensued, and continued so long that the crops could not recover before the autumn frosts set in, and thus our hopes were blasted. The farm at Alexandria had not much better success, owing to the neglect of the good people themselves; — not having en- FAILURE OF CROPS. 281 closed their fields, the cattle destroyed the greater part of the crops. Here, however, notwithstand- ing the failure of our grain crops, we had abun- dance of vegetables and a large stock of cattle, so that our fare was far superior to that of the other ea:iles in the district. Mr. Ogden returned from Fort Vancouver about the usual time, and was mortified to find that our grand agricultural experiment had so completely failed. He, however, had brought a supply of flour suflicient to afford each commander of posts a couple of bags, and thus the inconvenience arising from our disappointment was, in some degree, obviated. From his first arrival amongst us, Mr. Ogden evinced the most earnest desire to ameliorate the condition of his subordinates in this wretched district, and all felt grateful to him for his bene- volent intentions. To Mr. Dease, however, the praise is due of having introduced this new order of things : he it was who first introduced cattle from Fort Vancouver ; it was he who first 282 INFLUENZA. introduced farming, and recommended it to others. Late in autumn, the natives being all about the post, the dread influenza, that had made such fearful havoc among the Indians in other quarters, broke out here also. The poor creatures had a great deal of confidence in my medical skill, from the circumstance of my having saved the life of a boy who had eaten some poisonous root, when despaired of by their own mounte- banks. On the present occasion I tried my skill on one of the subjects best alile to bear my experiments, by administering a strong emetic and purge, and causing him afterwards to drink a decoction of mint. He was cured, and I afterwards prescribed the same medicine to many others with a like success ; so that my reputation as a disciple of ^sculapius became firmly established. Having last year applied to the Governor for permission to visit head-quarters, for a purpose which will be noticed hereafter, I received a PREPARE TO VISIT HEAD-QUARTERS. 283 favourable answer, and, in the month of February, set off for the depot of the district preparatory to my departure, where I remained for a month in company with Mr. Ogden and several fellow- scribes. 28 i CLIMATE OF NEW CALEDOMA. CHAPTER XXI. CLIMATE OF NEW CALEDONIA— SCENERY — NATUEAL PRODUC- TIONS — ANIMALS — FISHES — NATIVES — THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS — DUELLING — GAMBLING — LICENTIOUSNESS — LAN- GUAGE. . Ere I proceed on my long journey, I must pause for a little to describe more particularly the country, which I am about to quit, perhaps for ever, and the manners of its savage inhabitants. The climate of New Caledonia is exceedingly variable at all seasons of the year. I have expe- rienced at Stuart's Lake, in the month of July, every possible change of weather within twelve hours ; frost in the morning, scorching heat at noon ; then rain, hail, snow. The winter season is subject to the same vicissitudes, though not in so extreme a degree : some years it continues mild STUARTS LAKE. 285 throughout. These vicissitudes may, 1 think, be ascribed to local causes — proximity to, or distance from the glaciers of the Rocky Mountains, the direction of the winds, the aspect of the place, &c. Fort St. James is so situated as to be completely exposed to the north-east wind, which wafts on its wings the freezing vapours of the glaciers. The instant the wind shifts to this quarter, a change of temperature is felt ; and when it continues to blow for a few hours, it becomes so cold that, even in midsummer, small ponds are frozen over. The surrounding country is mountainous and rocky. Frazer's Lake is only about thirty miles distant from Fort St. James (on Stuart's Lake), yet there they raise abundance of vegetables, potatoes and turnips, and sometimes even wheat and barley. The post stands in a valley open to the south- west, — a fine champaign country, of a sandy soil ; it is protected from the north-east winds by a high ridge of hills. The winter seldom sets in before December, and the navigation is generally open about the beginning of May. K 3 286 SCENERY. Few countries present a more beautiful variety of scenery than New Caledonia. Stuart's Lake and its environs I have already attempted to de- scribe, but many such landscapes present them- selves in different parts of the country, where towering mountains, hill and dale, forest and lake, and verdant plains, blended together in the happiest manner, are taken in by the eye at a glance. Some scenes there are that recall forcibly to the remembrance of a son of Scotia, the hills and glens and " bonnie braes" of his own poor, vet beloved native land. New Caledonia, how- ever, has the advantage over the Old, of being generally well wooded, and possessed of lakes of far greater magnitude ; unfortunately, however, the woods are decaying rapidly, particularly several varieties of fir, which are being destroyed by an insect that prejs on the bark : when the country is denuded of this ornament, and its ridges have become bald, it will present a very desolate appearance. In some parts of the coun- try, the poplar and aspen tree are to be found, together with a species of birch, of whose bark NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 287' canoes are built ; but there is neither hard wood nor cedar. Such parts of the district as are not in the immediate vicinity of the regions of eternal snow, yield a variety of wild fruit, grateful to the palate, wholesome, and nutritious. Of these, the Indian pear is the most abundant, and most sought after, both by natives and whites; when fuUy ripe, it is of a black colour, with somewhat of a reddish tinge, pear-shaped, and very sweet to the taste. The natives dry them in the sun, and afterwards bake them into cakes, which are said to be delicious ; for my own part, having seen the process of manufacturing them, I could not overcome my prejudices so far as to partake of a delicacy in whose composition filth formed so considerable an ingredient. When dried, the cakes are placed in wooden vessels to receive the juice of green fruit, which is expressed by placing weights upon it, in wooden troughs, from which spouts of bark draw off the liquid into the vessels containing the dry fruit ; this being thoroughly saturated, is again bruised with 288 ANIMALS. the unclean hand, then re-formed into cakes, and dried again; and these processes are repeated alternately, until the cakes suit the taste of the maker. Blue berries are plentiful in some parts of the district ; there is a peculiar variety of them, which I preferred to any fruit I ever tasted; it is about the size of a musket-ball, of a purple colour, translucid, and in its taste sweet and acid are deliciously blended. The district is still rich in fur-bearing animals, especially beavers and martens, which are likely to continue numerous for many years to come, as they find a safe retreat among the fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains, where they multiply imdisturbed. This is the great beaver nursery, which continues to replace the numbers destroyed in the more exposed situations ; there is, never- theless, a sensible decrease in the returns of the fur since the introduction of steel traps among the natives : there are also otters, musk-rats, minxes, and lynxes. Of the larger quadrupeds bears only are numerous, and in all their varieties, grizzled, black, brown, and chocolate : numbers ANIMALS. 289 of them are taken by the natives in wooden traps. A chance moose or reindeer is sometimes found. The mountain sheep generally keeps aloft in the most inaccessible parts of the mountains, and is seldom " bagged " by a Carrier, but often by the Tsekanies. I have before observed that rabbits sometimes abound. Another small animal, whose flesh is delicious in season, the marmot, is found in great numbers. Tn the neighbourhood of Fort Alexandria, the jumping deer, or chevreuil, is abundant. To these add dog and horse flesh, and vou have all the varieties of animal food the country affords to its inhabitants, civilized or savage. A most destructive little animal, the wood-rat, infests the country, and generally nestles in the crevices of the rocks, but prefers still more human habitations ; they domicile under the floors of out- buildings, and not content with this, force their way into the inside, where they destroy and carry off every thing they can ; nor is there any way of securing the property in the stores from their depredations but by placing it in strong boxes. 290 BIRDS — FISUES. When fairly located, it is almost impossible to root them out. They are of a grey colour, and of nearly the size and form of the common rat, but the tail resembles that of the ground squirrel. The birds of this country are the same as in Canada. I observed no strange variety, except a species of curlieu that frequents the plains of Fort Alexandria in the summer. Immense flocks of cranes are seen in autumn and spring, flying high in the air ; in autumn directing their flight towards the south, and in spring towards the north. Some of the Lakes abound in fish ; the principal varieties are trout, carp, white fish, and pike. Stuart's Lake yields a small fish termed by the Canadians " poisson inconnu;" it seems as if it were partly white fish and partly carp, the head resembling the former ; it is full of small bones, and the flesh soft and unsavoury. The sturgeon has been already mentioned, but they are unfor- tunately too rare ; seldom more than five or six are captured in a season ; they weigh from one hundred to five hundred pounds. A beautiful small fish of the size of the anchovy, and shaped NATIVES. 29t like a salmon, is found in a river that falls into Stuart's' Lake ; it is said they pass the winter in the lake, and ascend their favourite stream in the month of June, where they deposit their spawn. They have the silvery scales of the larger salmon, and are exceedingly rich ; but the natives preserve them almost exclusively for their own use. There are four varieties of salmon, distinguished from each other by the peculiar form of the head ; the largest species seems to be the same we have in the rivers of Britain, and weighs from ten to twenty pounds ; the others do not exceed half that weight. New Caledonia is inhabited by the Takelly or Carrier nation, and by a few families of Tsekanies on the north-eastern extremity of the district. The Takellies are divided into as many tribes as there are posts — viz. eight, who formerly were as hostile to each other as if they had been of different nations. The presence of the wliites, however, has had the beneficial effect of checking their cut-throat propensities, although individual murders still occasionally occur among them. 292 DUELLING. Before the introduction of fire-arms, the honourable practice of duelling prevailed among them, though in a fashion peculiar to themselves. One arrow only was discharged, by the party demanding satisfaction, at his opponent, who, by dint of skipping about and dodging from side to side, generally contrived to escape it ; fatal duels, therefore, seldom if ever occurred ; and the parties, having thus given and received satisfac- tion, retired from the field reconciled.* They appear more prone to sudden bursts of passion than most Indians I have seen, and quarrel often and abuse each other in the most scurrilous terms. With the Sauteux, Crees, and other tribes on the east side of the mountains, few words are uttered before the blow, often a fatal one, is given ; whereas, with the Takellies, it is often • I would recommend this mode of conducting " aifairs of honour " to honourable gentlemen using the hair-trigger, as an improvement. Though practised by savages, it must be allowed to be somewhat less barbarous than ten paces' dis- tance, and standing still ! If the exhibition should appear somewhat ludicrous, both parties would have the additional " satisfaction " that their morning exercise had given a keener zest to their breakfast. It would be a sort of Pyrrhic dance. AUTHORITY OF CHIEFS. 293 many words and few blows. In the quarrels which take place among them, the ladies are generally the causa belli — a cause which would soon lead to the depopulation of the country, were all husbands to avenge their wrongs by shedding the blood of the guilty. Their chiefs have still considerable authority; but much of the homage they claimed and re- ceived in former times is now transferred to the white chiefs, or traders, whom they all esteem the greatest men in the universe. " After the Man of heaven," said old Quaw to Mr. Dease, " you are next in dignity." Omng to the super- stitious notions of the people, the chiefs are still feared on account of the magical powers ascribed to them ; it is firmly believed they can, at will, inflict diseases, cause misfortunes of every kind, and even death itself; and so strong is this impression, that they will not even pass in a direction where the shadow of a chief, or " man of medicine," might fall on them, *' lest," say they, " he should bear us some ill-will and afilict us with some disease." 294 TREATMENT OF THE SICK. These conjurors, nevertheless, are the greatest bunglers at their trade of any in the Indian territory; they practise none of the clever tricks of the Sauteux sorcerers, and are perfectly igno- rant of the medicinal virtues of herbs and plants, with which the Sauteux and other Indians often perform astonishing cures. The Takellies ad- minister no medicine to the sick ; a variety of ridiculous gesticulations, together with singing, blowing, and heating on the patient, are the means they adopt to effect their end; and they, not seldom, effectually cure the patient of " all the ills of life." Whether they effect a cure or not, they are sure to be well recompensed for their expenditure of wind, an article of which they are not sparing: they, in fact, exert themselves so much that the perspiration pours from every pore. The only real remedy they use, in common with other Indians, is the vapour-bath, or sweating-house. The house, as it is termed, which is constructed by bending twigs of willow, and fixing both ends in the ground, when finished, presents the appear- ance of a bee-hive, and is carefully covered to PAKENESS OF DISEASE. 295 prevent the escape of the vapour ; red-hot stones are then placed inside, and water poured upon them, and the patient remains in the midst of the steam thus generated as long as he can bear it, then rushing out, plunges into the cold stream. This is said to be a sovereign remedy for rheu- matism, and the natives have recourse to it in all cases of severe pain : I myself witnessed its efficacy in a case of paralysis. The salubrity of the climate, however, renders disease of every kind extremely rare, except such as are caused by the excesses of the natives them- selves. The venereal is very common, and appears to have been indigenous. At their feasts they gorge themselves to such a degree as to endanger their lives ; after a feast many of the guests continue ill for a considerable time, yet this does not prevent them from gormandizing again whenever an opportunity presents itself. Old and young, male and female, are subject to severe inflammation in the eyes, chiefly, I believe, from their passing the winter in hovels under- ground, which have no outlet for the smoke. 296 DECREASE OF INDIANS. and passing from them into the glare of sunshine upon the snow. What with the confined smoke and tainted atmosphere of these abominable burrows, I found it painful to remain even for a few minutes in them. It has been remarked by those who first settled in the district, that the Indians are rapidly de- creasing in numbers since their arrival — a fact which does not admit of a doubt : I myself have seen many villages and encampments without an inhabitant. But what can be the cause of it ? Here there has been neither rum nor small-pox — the scourges of this doomed race in other parts. Yet, on the banks of the Columbia, which, when first visited by the whites a few years ago, literally swarmed with Indians, a disease broke out which nearly exterminated them. Has the fiat, then, gone forth, that the aboriginal inha- bitants of America shall make way for another race of men ? To my mind, at least, the ques- tion presents not the shadow of a doubt. The existence of the present race of Indians at some future, and by no means distant period, will only TAKELLIAN WOMEN. 297 be known through the historical records of their successors. The Takellies do not use canoes on their hunt- ing excursions, so that they are necessitated to carry all their conveniences on their backs ; and it is astonishing to see what heavy loads they can carry, especially the women, on whom the transport duty generally devolves. Among this tribe, however, the women are held in much higher consideration than among other Indians : they assist at the councils, and some ladies of distinction are even admitted to the feasts. This consideration they doubtless owe to the efficient aid they afford in procuring the means of sub- sistence. The one sex is as actively employed during the fishing season as the other. The men construct the weirs, repair them when necessary, and capture the fish ; the women split them up — a most laborious operation when sal- mon is plentiful — suspend them on the scaffolds, attend to the drying, &c. They also collect berries, and dig up the edible roots that are found in the country, and which are of great 298 GAMBLING. service in years of scarcity. Thus the labour of the women contributes as much to the support of the community as that of the men. The men are passionately addicted to gambling, staking everything they possess, and continuing at it night and day, until compelled to desist by sheer hunger, or by the loss of all. I could not understand their game ; we, in fact, used our best endeavours to abolish the pernicious custom, and, to avoid countenancing it, were as seldom present as possible. It is played with a few small sticks, neatly carved, with a certain number of marks upon them, tied up in a small bundle of hay, which the player draws out suc- cessively, throws up and catches between his hands; and when all are drawn, they are taken up one by one, and dashed against a piece of parchment, and rolled up again in the hay. The whole party appear merry enough at the commencement of the game, all joining chorus in a song, and straining their lungs to such a degree, that hoarseness soon ensues, when they continue their amusement in silence. When the ESTIMATION OF DOGS. 299 game is ended, some of them present a sad spec- tacle ; coming forth, their hair dishevelled, their eyes bloodshot, and faces ghastly pale, with probably nothing to cover their nakedness, save perhaps an old siffleux robe, vv^hich the winner may be generous enough to bestow. They never shoot or hang themselves, let their luck be ever so bad, but sometimes shoot the winning party. Dogs, if not held sacred, are at least as much esteemed by them as their own kindred. I have known an instance of a quadruped of the cynic sect being appointed successor to a biped chief, and discharging the duties of his office with the utmost gravity and decorum ; appearing at the feast given in honour of his deceased predecessor, and furnishing his quota — (this of course by proxy) — of the provisions. This dog-chief was treated by his owner with as much regard as if he had been his child ! All, indeed, treat their dogs with the greatest respect, calling them by the most endearing epithets : — " Embark, my 300 LICENTIOUSNESS. son ;" " Be quiet, my child ;" " Don't bark at the white men, they will not harm you." The lewdness of the Carrier women cannot possibly be carried to a greater excess. They are addicted to the most abominable practices ; abandoning themselves in early youth to the free indulgence of their passions, they soon become debilitated and infirm ; and there can be no doubt that to this monstrous depravity the depopulation of the country may, in part, be ascribed. They never marry until satiated with indul- gence ; and if the woman then should be dis- satisfied with the restraint of the conjugal yoke, the union, by mutual consent, is dissolved for a time ; both then betake themselves to their former courses. The woman, nevertheless, dare not, according to law, take another husband during this temporary separation. Whoever in- fringes this law, forfeits his life to the aggrieved party, if he choose, or dare to take it. Polygamy is allowed ; but only one of the women is considered as the wife. The most SOCIAL HABITS. 301 perfect harmony seems to subsist among them. When the favourite happens to be supplanted by a rival, she resigns her place without a murmur, well pleased if she can only enjoy the countenance of her lord in a subordinate situation. Yet a rupture does sometimes occiir, when the repu- diated party not unfrequently destroys herself. Suicides were frequent among the females in the neighbourhood of Fort Alexandria. The Takellies are a sedentary people, remain- ing shut up in their huts during the severer part of the winter. You may then approach a camp without perceiving any sign of its vicinity, until you come upon their well, or one of their salmon caches. They are very social, congregating at each other's huts, and passing their time talking or sleeping. "When awake, their tongues are ever in motion, — all bawling out at the same time ; and it has often surprised me how they could possibly make themselves understood in the midst of such an uproar. All Indians with whom I have come in contact, Christian as well as Pagan, are addicted to false- VOL. I. O 302 THEFT. hood ; but the Takellies excel ; they are perfect adepts in the art, telling their stories with such an appearance of truth, that even those who know them well are often deceived. They were the arreatest thieves in the world when the whites first settled among them. The utmost vigilance failed to detect them. Some of our people have been known to have their belts taken off them, without perceiving it till too late; and many a poor fellow, after passing a night in one of their encampments, has been obliged to pass the remainder of the winter with but half a blanket — the other half having been cut off while he slept. Theft, however, is not quite so prevalent as formerly ; and, strange to say, no Indians can be more honest in paying their debts. It would indeed be desirable that this credit system, long since introduced, were abolished; but if this were done, the natives would carry the greater part of their hunts to another quarter. Some of the natives of the coast, having become regular traders of late years, penetrate a considerable INDIAN AIRS. 303 distance into the interior; in this manner the goods obtained from the Company's posts along the coast, or from foreign trading ships, pass from hand to hand in barter, until they eventually reach the borders of New Caledonia, where the trade still affords a very handsome profit to the native speculator. These Indians are not given to hospitality in the proper sense of the word. A stranger arriving among them is provided with food for a day only; should he remain longer, he pays for it ; for that day's entertainment, however, the best fare is liberally furnished. Strangers invited to their feasts are also provided for while they remain. There is much more variety and melody in the airs they sing, than I have heard in any other part of the Indian country. They have professed composers, who turn their talent to good account on the occasion of a feast, when new airs are in great request, and are purchased at a high rate. They dance in circles, men and women promis- cuously, holding each other by the hand ; and o 2 304 LANGUAGE. keeping both feet together, hop a little to a side all at once, gi^^ng at the same time a singular jerk to their persons behind. The movement seems to be difficult of execution, as it causes them to perspire profusely ; they, however, keep excellent time, and the blending of the voices of the men and women in symphony has an agree- able effect. The Takelly, or Carrier language, is a dialect of the Chippevvayan ; and it is rather a singular fact, that the two intervening dialects of the Beaver Indians and Tsekanies, kindred nations, should differ more from the Chippewayan than the Carrier; the two latter nations being per- fectly intelligible to each other, while the former are but very imperfectly understood by their immediate neighbours, the Chippewayans. An erroneous opinion seems to have gone abroad regarding the variety of languages spoken by the Indians. There are, in reality, only four radically distinct languages from the shores of Labrador to the Pacific : Sauteux, Chippewayan, Atna and Chinook. The Cree language is evi- LANGUAGE. 305 (lently a dialect of the Sauteux, similar in construction, and differing only in the modification of a few words. The Nascopies, or mountaineers of Labrador, speak a mixture of Cree and Sau- teux, the former predominating. Along the communication from Montreal to the foot of the Rocky Mountains, following the Peace River route, we first meet with the Sau- teux tribes, who extend from the Lake of the Two Mountains to Lake Winnipeg ; then the Crees to Isle a la Crosse ; after them, Crees and Chippewayaiis to Athabasca ; and along the banks of Peace River, the Beaver Indians occupy the lower, and the Tsekanies the upper part. The Chippewayan is evidently the root of the Beaver, Tsekany and Carrier dialects ; it is also spoken by a numerous tribe in the McKenzie's River dis- trict — the Hare Indians. On the west side of the Rocky Mountains the Carrier language is succeeded by the Atna, which extends along the Columbia as far down, as the Chinooks, who inhabit the coast. The Atna language, in its variety of dialects, seems to 306 TRADE OF NEW CALEDONIA. have as wide a scope as either the Sauteux or Chip pe way an. New Caledonia is one of the richest districts in the Company's vast domain ; its returns average about 8,000 beavers, with a fair proportion of other valuable furs. When the district was first settled, the goods required for trade were brought in by the winterers from Lac la Pluie, which was their depot. The people left the district as early in spring as the navigation permitted, and returned so late that they were frequently overtaken by winter ere they reached their destination. Cold, hunger, and fatigue, were the unavoidable con- sequences ; but the enterprising spiiit of the men of those days — the intrepid, indefatigable adventurers of the North-West Company — over- came every difficulty. It was that spirit that opened a communication across the broad conti- nent of America ; that penetrated to the frost- bound regions of the Arctic circle ; and that established a trade with the natives in this remote land, when the merchandise required for it was in one season transported from Montreal to FARE AT THE POSTS. 307 within a short distance of the Pacific. Such enterprise has never been exceeded, seldom or never equalled. The outfit is now sent out from England by Cape Horn, to Fort Vancouver, thence it is conveyed in boats to Okanagan, then transported on horses' backs to Alexandria, the lower post of the district, whence it is conveyed in boats to Fort St. James. ^ There are generally two commissioned gentle- men in this district, — a chief-factor and chief- trader, with six or seven clerks in charge of posts; and about forty men, principally Iroquois and half-breeds. The fare at the different posts de- pends entirely on local circumstances. In some places it is tolerable, in others, scarcely fit for dogs. For the year's consumption, the Company allow a clerk two bags of flour, sixty pounds of sugar, twelve pounds of tea, and a small quantity of wine and brandy. Butter is now j roduced in abundance in the district. Where there are no gardens, the men have only dried salmon, — as poor fare as civilized man subsists on in any part of the world. It has at first the same effect on 308 FARE AT THE POSTS. most people as if they fed on Glauber salts. Nevertheless, the men generally continue in this wretched condition for many years, apparently contented and happy ; the indulgence they find among the females being, 1 grieve to say, the principal inducement. END OF VOL. I. R. CLAr, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. NOTES OF A TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SEEYICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. BY JOHN M'LEAN. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, ^u!)I(s5n- in ©itrhiarB to 3^cr iWajestp. 1849. LONDON : R. CLAY, PKIUTEK, BKEAD STREET HILL. CONTENTS 01? THE SECOND VOLUME, CHAPTER I. rACE Journey to Norway House 9 CHAPTER II. Arrival at York Factory— Its Situation— Climate— Natives — Rein-Deer — Voyage to Ungava — Incidents of the Voyage — Arrival at Ungava — Situation and Aspect 16 CHAPTER III. Exploring Expedition through the Interior of Labrador — Difficulties — Deer Hunt — Indian Gluttony — Description of the Country — Provisions run short — Influenza ... 32 CHAPTER IV. Distressing Bereavement — Exploring Party— their Report — Arrival at Esquimaux — Establish Posts — Pounding Rein- Deer — Expedition up George's River — Its Difficulties — Hamilton River — Discover a stupendous Cataract — Return by George's River to the Sea — Sudden Storm and miracu- lous Escape dO IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. PAOE Esquimaux arrive from tlie North Shore of Hudson's Strait on a Raft — Despatch from the Governor — Distress of the Esquimaux — Forward Provisions to Mr. E . Return of the Party — Their deplorable Condition 81 CHAPTER VI. Trip to Esquimaux Bay — Governor's Instructions— jSIy Re- port to the Committee — Recommend the Abandonment of Ungava Settlement — Success of the Arctic Expedition conducted by Jlessrs. Dease and Simpson — Return by Sea to Fort Chimo — Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the Ungava River — Impolitic Measure of the Governor — Con- sequent Distress at the Post 88 CHAPTER VII. Another exploring Expedition — My Promotion — Winter at Chimo — Obtain permission to visit Britain — Ungava abandoned 98 CHAPTER VIII. GENERAL REMARKS. Climate of Ungava— Aurora Borealis — Soil — Vegetable Pro- ductions— Animals— Birds— Fish — Geological Features . 102 CHAPTER IX. The Nascopies— Their Religion — Manners and Customs — Clothing — Marriage — Community of Goods 118 CHAPTER X. The Esquimaux^Probable Origin — Identity of Language from Labrador to Bchring's Straits — Their Amours — Marriages — Religion — Treatment of Parents — Anecdote CONTENTS. V — Mode of Preserving Meat — Amusements — Dress — The Igloe, or Snow-House — Their Cuisine — Dogs — The Sledge — Caiak, or Canoe — Ouimiak, or Boat — Implements — Stature • 131 CHAPTEE XI. Labrador — Esquimaux Half-Breeds — Moravian Brethren- European Inhabitants — Their Virtues — Climate— Anecdote 155 CHAPTER XII. Voyage to England — Arrival at Plymouth — Reflections — Arrive at the place of my Nativity — Changes — Depopu- lation — London — The Thames — Liverpool — Embark for New York — Arrival — The Americans — English and Ame- rican Tourists — England and America — New York . . 167 CHAPTER XIII. Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer — The Passengers — Arrival at Albany — Journey to Montreal . 187 CHAPTER XIV. Embark for the North — Passengers — Arrive at Fort William — Despatch from Governor — Appointed to McKenzie's River District — Portage La Loche — Adventure on Great Slave Lake — Arrive at Fort Simpson — Productions of the Post 193 CHAPTER XV. Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library — Alleged Kindness of the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians — And Generositj' — Support of Missionaries — Support with- drawn — Preference of Roman Catholics — The North-West Company — ^Conduct of a British Peer — Rivalry of the Companies — Coalition — Charges against the North- West Company refuted 207 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVI. PAGE Arrival of Mr. Lefroy — Voyage to the Lower Po.sts of the ilcKenzie — Avalanche — Incidents of the Voyage — Voyage to Portage La Loche — Arbitrary and unjust Conduct of the Governor — Despotism — My Eeply to the Governor 228 CHAPTER XVII. Situation of Fort Simpson — Climate — The Liard — Effects of the Spring Flood" — Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's River District — Peculiarities — Distress through Famine — Canni- balism — Anecdote — Fort Good Hope saved by the Intre- pidity of M. Dechambault— Discoveries of Mr. Campbell. 241 CHAPTER XVIII. Mr. McPherson assumes the Command — I am appointed to Fort Liard, but exchange for Great Slave Lake — The Indians — Resolve to quit the Service — Phenomena of the Lake 255 CHAPTER XIX. Reflections — Prospects in the Service — Decrease of the Game — Company's Policy in consequence— Appeal of the Indians — Means of Preserving them, and improving their Condition — Abolition of the Charter — Objections an- swered .... 260 CHAPTER XX. Wesleyan Mission — Mr. Evans — Encouragement given by the Company — Mr. Evans' Exertions among the Indians — Causes of the Withdrawal of the Company's Support — Calumnious Charges against Mr. E. — Mr. E. goes to Eng- land — His sudden Death 278 CONTEXTS. Vll CHAPTEll XXI. SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. PAGE Eed River— Soils— Climate — Productions— Settlement of Red River through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders— Col- lision between the North-West and Hudson's Bay Com- panies—Inundation—Its Effects— French Half-Breeds— Buffalo Hunting — English Half - Breeds — Indians- Churches— Schools — Stores — Market for Produce— Com- munication by Lakes 289 CHAPTER XXI L Sir G. Simpson— His Administration 311 Vocabulary of the Prikcipal Indian Dialects in use among the Tribes in the Hudson's Bay Territory 323 NOTES OP A TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY. CHAPTER I. JOUKNEY TO NORWAY HOUSE. I STARTED from Stuart's Lake on the 22cl of February, and arrived at Fort Alexandria on the 8th of March. Although the upper parts of the district were yet buried in snow, it had dis- appeared in the immediate neighbourhood of the establishment, and everything wore the pleasing aspect of spring. VOL. II. B 10 LAC VERT. Mr. F was about to remove to a new post he had erected on the west bank of the river. Horses were provided for us to perform the journey overland to Okanagan. We left on the 13th ; on the 15th we encamped on the borders of Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm in the early part of the day. The lake and circum- jacent country presented a beautiful scene ; the spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the ho- rizon and presenting a rugged outline enveloped in snow — the intervening space of wooded hill and dale clothed in the fresh verdure of the season ; and the innumerable low points and islands in the lake contributing to the variety of the landscape. Hitherto we had found much snow on the ground, and our progress in consequence was very slow. Our hardy horses subsisting on whatever they could pick during the night, or when we halted for our meals, began to falter, so that we were under the necessity of stopping to allow them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared. On the evening of the 18 th we came in sight of Kamloops* Lake, which, to my great surprise. FORT KAMLOOPS. ll was not only clear of ice, but the valley in which it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while the heights on the other side were still covered with snow. The valley looks to the south, and is protected from the cold winds by the neigh- bouring high grounds. On arriving at Kamloops* post we found two Canadians in charge, Mr. B having set off a few days before for the depot at Fort Vancouver. We met with a cordial reception from his men, who entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes for supper ; and next day we bountifully partook of the same delicacies, my prejudice against tliis fare having completely vanished. Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence of Thompson's River and its north branch; the Indians attached to it are a tribe of the Atnahs. Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing animals, nor are there many animals of the larger kind to be found ; they however find subsistence in the variety of edible roots which the country affords. They have the character of being honest, quiet, and well-disposed towards the whites. As B 2 12 OVERLAND JOURNEY soon as the yoiing women attain tlie age of puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion which the young men understand without expla- nation. They also dig holes in the ground, which they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of their industry; and when they are in a certain state they separate from the community and live in small huts, which they build for themselves. Should any one unwittingly touch them, or an article belonging to them, during their indispo- sition, he is considered unclean ; and must purify himself by fasting for a day, and then jumping over a fire prepared by pure hands. We left Kamloops on the 20th, and after travel- ling about twenty miles found the ground covered with snow, which increased in depth as we ad- vanced. The track left by ^Mr. B 's party was of great service to us. We encamped at the extremity of Okanagan Lake, where we found a small camp of natives nearly starved to death ; the unfortunate creatures passed the night in our encampment, and we dis- tributed as much of our provisions amongst them TO OKAXAGAX. 13 as we could possibly spare. This encampment aSbrded me as miserable a night's lodging as I had ever met with ; a snow-sUnm raged without intermission till daylight, when we set out so com- pletely benumbed that we could not mount our horses till we had put the blood in circulation by walking. We overtook Mr. B on the 25th, his horses completely jaded and worn out by the fa.ir-irs of the journey; the great depth of the snow indeed would have utterly precluded travel- ling had he not adopted the precaution of driving a number of young horses before the 1 : :-, '. - \ horses to make a track. The counrrv throoffh which we have travelled for the last few days is exceedingly rugged, and possesses few features to interest the traveller. We arrived at the post of Okanagan on the 28th, situated on the left bank of the Columbia River. The ground was still covered with snow to the depth of two feet, and had been five feet deep in the course of the winter — an extraorcir.arv 14 ARRIVE AT COLVILLE, circumstance, as there generally falls so little snow in this quarter, that the cattle graze in the plain nearly all winter. The Indians are designated Okanagans, and speak a dialect of the Atnah. Their lands are very poor, yielding only cats, foxes, &c. ; they subsist on salmon and roots. Messrs. F and D arrived from Fort Vancouver on the 7th of April, and we embarked on the 8th in three boats manned by retiring ser- vants. Mr. B accompanied us, having ob- tained permission to cross the Rocky Mountains. We arrived at Colville on the 12th, where we met with a most friendly reception from a warm- hearted Gael, (Mr. McD.) The gentlemen pro- ceeding to the depot in charge of the accounts of the Columbia department generally remain here a few days to put a finishing hand to these accounts — an operation which occupied us till the 22d, when we re-embarked, leaving Messrs. D and B • behind ; the former being remanded to Fort Vancouver ; and the latter, having changed his mind, in an evil hour for AND RE-EMBARK. 15 himself, returned to his old quarters; where he was murdered sometime afterwards hy an Indian who had lost his father, and thought that the company of his old trader would solace him for the absence of his children. 16 YORK FACTORY. CHAPTER II. ABEIVAL AT YOKK ' FACTOEY — ITS SITUATION — CLIMATE — NATIVES — KEIN-DEER — VOYAGE TO UNGAVA — INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE — ARRIVAL AT TNGAVA — SITUATION AND ASPECT. I ARRIVED at York Factory, the depot of the Northern department, early in July. This esta- blishment presents a more respectable appearance than any other that I have seen in Rupert's Land, and reflects no small credit on the talents and taste of him who planned, and partly executed, the existing improvements, all which have been effected since the coalition. "When Mr. McT. first assumed the command, the buildings were of the most wretched description— the apartments had more the appearance of cells for criminals, than of rooms for gentlemen. ITS SITUATION. 17 4 The yielding nature of the swampy ground on which the buildings were to be erected rendering it necessary to lay a solid foundation, the object was accomplished in the face of every difficulty, and at a great expense ; and the present commo- dious buildings were commenced, but not finished by the projector. Other improvements have been made since then, so that they afford every comfort and convenience that could be expected in so unfavourable a situation. The depot is at present under the charge of a chief factor, assisted by a chief trader, a surgeon, and two clerks. Here there is always a sufficient supply of goods and provisions on hand to meet the demand of the trade for two years — a wise precaution, as in the event of any accident hap- pening to prevent the vessel from reaching her destination, the trade would not be interrupted. The very emergency thus provided for occurred last autumn ; the ship, after dropping anchor in her usual mooring ground, was compelled by stress of weather to bear away for England, after loosing her anchors, and sustaining other serious B 3 18 CLIMATE. damages. Yet notwithstanding this untoward event, the gentlemen in charge of the different districts set off for the interior with their outfits complete. The climate, although extremely disagreeable, is not considered unhealthy. In summer the ex- tremes of heat and cold are experienced in the course of a few hours ; in the morning you may be wearing nankeen, and before noon, duffle. "Were the heat to continue for a sufficient length of time to thaw the ground thoroughly, the establishment could not be kept up save at a great sacrifice of life, through the mephitic exhalations from the surrounding swamps. The ground, however, seldom thaws more than eighteen inches, and the climate therefore is never aSected by them to such a degree as to become unhealthy. One of Mr. McT 's most beneficial improve- ments was to clear the swamps surrounding the factory of the brushwood with which they were thickly covered; and the inmates are now in a srreat measure relieved from the torture to which they were formerly exposed from the mosquitoes. MOSQUITOES. 19 These vampires are not so troublesome in the cleared ground, but whoever dares to intrude on their domain pays dearly for his temerity. Every exposed part of the body is immediately covered with them ; defence is out of the ques- tion ; the death of one is avenged by the stings of a thousand equally bloodthirsty ; and the unequal contest is soon ended by the flight of the tormented party to his quarters, whither he is pursued to his very door. There seems to be no foundation for the opinion generally entertained that the natives do not sufier from the stings of these insects. The incrustation of filth with which their bodies are covered undoubtedly affords some protection, the skin not being so easily pierced ; but no incrus- tation, however thick, can be a defence against the attacks of myriads ; and in fact, the natives complain as loudly of the mosquitoes as the whites. The Indians of this quarter are denominated Swampies, a tribe of the Cree nation, whose language they speak with but little variation, and in their manners and customs there is a great 20 THE SWAMPIES. similarity. But the Swampies are a degenerate race, reduced by famine and disease to a few families ; and these have been still farther reduced by an epidemic which raged among them this sum- mer. They were attacked by it immediately on their return from the interior with the produce of their winter hunts, and remained in hopes of being benefited by medical advice and attendance. Their hopes, however, were not realized ; they were left entirely in charge of a young man without experience and without humanity ; and the disease was unchecked. Every day the death of some poor wretch was made known to us by the firing of guns^ by which the survivors fancied the evil spirit was frightened away from the souls of their departed friends. Not many years ago this part of the country was periodically visited by immense herds of rein-deer ; at present there is scarcely one to be found. Whether their disappearance is owing to their having changed the course of their migrations, or to their destruction by the natives, who waylaid them on their passage, and killed REIN -DEER. 21 them by hundreds, is a question not easily determined. It may be they have only forsaken this part of the country for a time, and may yet return in as great numbers as ever : be that as it may, the present vs^ant to which the Indians are subject, arises from the extreme scarcity of those animals, whose flesh and skins afforded them food and clothing. Their subsistence is now very precarious; derived principally from snaring rabbits and fishing ; and rabbits also fail periodically. Their fare during summer, however, soon obliterates the remembrance of the privations of winter : fish is then found in every lake, and wild-fowl during the moulting season become an easy prey ; while 3'oung ducks and geese are approached in canoes, and are destroyed with arrows in great numbers, ere they have acquired the use of their wings. The white man similarly situated would undoubtedly think of the long winter he had passed in want, and would provide for the next while he could ; — so much foresight. 22 EMPLOYMENT OF INDIANS. however, does not belong to the Indian cha- racter. Fishing and hunting for the establishment affords employment to a few Indians during summer, and is an object of competition among them, on account of the incomparable gratification it affords — grog drinking — to which no earthly bliss can be compared in the Indian's estimation. To find the Company serving out rum to the natives as [payment for their services in this remote quarter, created the utmost surprise in my mind: no excuse can be advanced which can justify the unhallowed practice, when the management of the native population is left entirely to themselves. Why then is it continued ? Strange to say, while Indians were to be seen rolling drunk about the establishment, an order of Council appeared, prohibiting the sale of ardent spirits in any quantity exceeding two gallons to the Company's officers of whatever rank, with the view of preventing the demoral- ization of the natives ! THEIR PACIFIC DEMEANOUR. 23 Most of the natives have a smattering of English, and are said to be a quiet, harmless race, addicted to few bad habits. Their remote situation and impoverished country protect them from the hostile inroads of neighbouring tribes ; hence the tame and pacific demeanour by which they are distinguished. The poor Swampy often retires to rest without a morsel to eat for himself or family, and that for days together; yet he is under no apprehension from his enemies, and enjoys his night's rest undisturbed ; whereas, the warrior of the plain, while he revels in abundance, seldom retires to rest without apprehension ; the hostile yell may, in fact, rouse him from his midnight slumber, either to be butchered him- self, or to hear the dying groans of his family while he escapes. Thus chequered is the life of man with good and evil in every condition, whether civilized or savage. Every preparation for our departure being now completed, I took leave of Fort York, its fogs, and bogs, and mosquitoes, with little regret. 24 INTERRUPTED BY ICE. We embarked on tlie 22d of August, in a brig that had fortunately escaped the mishaps of the other vessels last autumn ; and after being delayed in port by adverse w^inds till the 26th, we finally stood out to sea, having spoken the Prince Rupert just come in. The fields of ice, that had been observed a few days previously, having now entirely disappeared, the captain concluded that the passage was clear for him, and accordingly steered for the south. He had not proceeded far in this direction, however, when we fell in with such quantities of ice as to interrupt our passage ; but we still continued to force our way through. Convinced at length of the futility of the attempt, we altered our course to a directly opposite point, standing to the north, until we came abreast of Churchill, and then bore away for the strait, making Mansfield Island on the 7th of September. We encountered much stream ice on our passage, from which no material injury was sustained; although the continual knocking of our rather frail vessel against the ice created AN ALARM. 25 a good deal of alarm, from the effect the collision produced, shaking her violently from stem to stern. We were thus passing rapidly through the straits without experiencing any accident worthy of notice, when I inquired of our captain, one evening, how soon he expected to make the Island of Akpatok. He replied, " To-morrow- morning about nine o'clock." We retired to rest about ten, p.m., and I had not yet fallen asleep, when I heard an unusual bustle on deck, and one of the men rushing down to the captain's room to call him up. I instantly dressed and went on deck, where I soon learned the cause;— a dark object, scarcely distinguishable through the fog and gloom of night, was pointed out to me on our lee beam, two cable-lengths distant, on which we had been rushing, propelled by wind and current, at the rate of thirteen knots an hour, when it was observed. A few moments more, and we had been launched into eternity. Had the vigilance of the look-out been relaxed for a minute, or had the slightest accident occurred 26 ARRIVAL AT UNGAVA. to prevent the vessel from wearing at the very instant, our doom was certain. The western extremity of the Island of Akpatok, terminating in a high promontory seemingly cut down perpendicular to the water's edge, formed the danger we had so providentially escaped. Next day we saw the dismal spot in all its horrors. The island was still partially covered with snow, and no traces of vegetation were discernible ; but a fresh breeze springing up we soon lost sight of this desolate spot, and made the mouth of the Ungava, or South River, about an hour after sunset. The captain was a perfect stranger on the coast, and had but a very im- perfect chart to guide him ; he nevertheless stood boldly in for the land, and fortunately discovered the mouth of the river, which we entered as darkness closed in upon us. By this time the breeze, that had carried us on so rapidly, increased to a gale, so that if we had uot entered the river so opportunely, the con- sequences might have been serious. We were utterly unacquainted with the coast, which pre? ARRIVAL AT UNGAVA. 27 sen ted 'a thousand dangers in the shape of rocks and breakers, that were observable in every direction, as far as the eye could reach to sea- ward ; we therefore congratulated ourselves on our fancied security — for it was only fancied, as will presently appear. We kept firing as we approached the land, with the view of apprizing the people of the post, who were directed to await us at the mouth of the river. No sound was heard in reply until we had advanced a few miles up the river, when we were gratified with hearing the report of muskets, and presently several torches were visible blazing a little ahead. The night was uncommonly dark, the banks of the river being scarcely perceptible ; and although it appeared to me we were much nearer then than prudence would warrant, we still drew nearer, when our progress was suddenly arrested. The vessel struck violently on a sunken rock, and heeled over so much that she was nearly thrown on her beam-ends. Swinging round, however, with the force of the current, she soon got off again ; 2S ESQUIMAUX PILOT. and our captain, taking the hint, instantly dropped anchor. Soon after a couple of Esquimaux came alongside in their canoes, who gave us to under- stand by signs that they were sent to pilot us to the post. Next day, as soon as the tide proved favourable, our Esquimaux made signs to weigh anchor, which being done, one of them took his station by the side of the helmsman, and never moved a moment from the spot, pointing out the deep channel, with which he appeared well acquainted ; although the utmost anxiety appeared depicted in his countenance, lest any accident should happen. Once or twice we touched slightly, when he expressed his dissatisfaction by a deep groan; he managed so well, however, that he brought us to good anchoring ground ere nightfall. From 10 a.m. until late in the evening we had only advanced twenty-five miles, although we pressed against the current with top-gallant sails set and a strong wind in our favour. Immediately we anchored, Captain Humphrey LAND AT THE POST. 29 and myself determined on rowing up to the post, where we arrived about four, p.m. I need scarcely say with what joy our arrival was hailed by people so seldom visited by strangers, in a situation which had no regular communication as yet with any other part of the world. I was much gratified by the appearance of every thing about the establishment. The build- ings had just been finished with materials sent out from England, through the considerate and kindl}' feeling of the Committee, whose compassion had been excited by the accounts they had heard of the miserable hovels in which the people were lodged when the place was first settled. After passing an hour or two examining the fort, (as it is called par excellence,) we returned to the ship, and weighing anchor at an early hour the next morn- ing, (11th September,) we were soon brought up to the establishment, and landed without loss of time amid a violent snow-storm. It afforded us no small consolation, however, to reflect that we had no further cause to apprehend danger from 30 SITUATION OF THE POST. icebergs or rocks, and that the post afforded us greater comfort as to living and accommodation than we had been led to expect. The vessel, having discharged cargo, dropped down with the stream on the 15th, leaving us to reflect in undisturbed solitude on the dreary prospects before us. The clank of the capstan, while the operation of weighing was being exe- cuted, echoing from the surrounding hills, sug- gested the question, " When shall that sound be heard again ? " From the melancholy reverie which this idea suggested I was roused by the voice of my fellow exile, " the companion of my joys and sorrows," in whose society such gloomy thoughts could not long dwell. This post is situated in lat. 59° 28', standing on the east bank of South River, about thirty miles distant from the sea, surrounded by a country that presents as complete a picture of desolation as can be imagined ; moss-covered rocks without vegetation and vidthout verdure, constitute the cheerless landscape that greets the ITS ASPECT. 31 eye in every direction. A few stunted pines growing in the villages form the only exception ; and at this season of the year, when they shed their leaves, contribute but little to the improve- ment of the scene. 32 LABRADOR. CHAPTER III. EXPLORING EXPEDITION THUOUGH THE INTERIOR OF LABRA- DOR — DIFFICULTIES — DEER-HUNT — INDIAN GLUTTONY — DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY — PROVISIONS RUN SHORT — INFLUENZA. The Company having learned, through a pam- phlet published by the Moravian missionaries of Labrador, that the country produced excellent furs, were induced by the laudable desire of " ameliorating the condition of the natives," to settle it ; and a party was accordingly sent over- land from Moose Factory to take possession in the summer of 1831. The Moravians, finding their intention thus anticipated, left both the cure of souls and trade of furs to the Company. Whatever may have been the Company's real motives in forming a settlement in this quarter, THE UNGAVA ADVENTURE. 33 the profits derived from it added but little to the dividends ; the substance that glittered at a dis- tance like gold proved to be but base metal. Beavers were nowhere to be found ; and although the martens brought an extraordinary high price, they were far from plentiful ; while the enormous expense of supplying the district by sea, and sup- porting it on imported provisions, rendered the *' Ungava adventure " a subject of rather unplea- sant discussion among the partners, most of whom were opposed to the measure from the first. Mr. Simpson was, in fact, the prime mover of the project, and aware of the discontent caused by its failure, determined on making every eflfort to reduce the expense, and, if possible, to increase the returns. Accordingly, I was directed to push outposts into the interior, to support my people on the resources of the country, and at the same time to open a communication with Esquimaux Bay, on the coast of Labrador, with the view of obtaining in future my supplies from thence by inland route ; " there being no question of the practicability of the rivers." So said not he who had seen those rivers. VOL. It C 34 EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH Mr. Erlandson had traversed the country in the spring of 1834, and represented to me the utter impossibihty of carrying my instructions into eiFect. Meantime, the Committee, having learned by despatches from York Factory that the vessel intended for the business of the district had been lost, and the other, in which I made my passage, placed in so critical a situation as to render her safety in spring a very doubtful matter, considered it advisable to provide for the worst by freighting a small schooner to carry us out our supplies. This vessel very unexpectedly made her appear- ance on the 22d of September, and we thus found ourselves supplied with goods and provisions for two years' consumption. Having, as above mentioned, learned from Mr. Erlandson the difficulties of the inland route, and also that a great number of the natives had gone to Esquimaux Bay, with the intention of remaining there, I considered it incumbent upon me to visit that quarter at an early period of the winter, and I accordingly set out from Fort Chimo on the 2d of January. I submit the following narrative of my journey to the reader. THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR. 35 " Tuesday, the 2d of Jafiuary, 1838. — I left Fort Chimo at eleven a.m., accompanied by the following" men, viz. : — " Donald Henderson, Henry Hay, and two In- dian guides, who are to accompany me throughout the journey ; Pierre Neven and M. Ferguson go part of the way, each driving a sled of two dogs, loaded with provisions, the other men having sleds drawn by themselves. " Wednesday, the 3d. — Left our encampment before dawn of day. Excessively cold — some of us got frost-bitten, but not severely. Our prin- cipal guide, finding his companion unable to keep up with us, set off to his lodge in quest of a substitute. Encamped early, having proceeded about nine miles. " Thursday, the 4:th. — Started at seven a.m. Reached High Fall Creek at nine a.m. Halted to wait for our guide, who soon joined us, alone, finding no person willing to accompany him. Resumed our march at half-past nine ; had not proceeded far, when we perceived that our young guide, Pellican, was left considerably in the rear. c 2 36 EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH We waited till he overtook us, and the miserable creature appearing completely exhausted with fatigue, we encamped at an early hour. Eight miles. " Friday, the 5th. — Lightened Pellican's sled, and set off at five a.m. ; fine weather, though sharp. Advanced sixteen miles. " Saturday, the 6th. — As the ice was covered with water close to our encampment, it was deemed advisable to await the light of day. Set off at eight a.m., but found it impossible to move forward in consequence of the immense quantity of snow that had fallen during the night. It con- tinuing still to snow, and blowing a violent gale at same time, I gave up the struggle. Advanced about a mile. " Sunday f the 1th. — Got up about three a.m., literally buried in snow. Our blankets being wet, we waited in our encampment drying them till eight o'clock, when we started w'ith only half loads, with which we intended to proceed to the first lake, and then return for the remainder ; but to our great satisfaction we soon discovered that the tempest which had incommoded us so much THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR. 37 last night had cleared the ice of snow ; we there- fore returned for the property we had left ; then proceeding at a fine rate, having beautiful weather, we soon reached the lake; when my guides, disco- vering a herd of deer on an adjacent hill, imme- diately set off at a bound, followed by Pellican and my two hrules. I saw at once my day's jour- ney was at an end, and accordingly directed my encampment to be made. Our hunters joined us in the evening with the choice parts of three deer they had killed. Proceeded eight miles. " Monday, the %th. — Very cold, tempestuous weather. Our progress was much retarded by the great depth of snow in the woods through which our route lay. Thirteen miles. " Tuesday, the ^th. — Blowing a hurricane ; the cold being also intense, we could not venture out on the ice without incurring the risk of being frost-bitten ; we therefore remained in our quar- ters, such as they were, until the weather should moderate. " Wednesday, the lOth. — My guides appeared very unwilling to quit their encampment this morning, pretending indisposition. They m^ht 38 EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH have been really ill; but the beastly maimer in which they had been gorging themselves for the past two days being well known to be the cause of their illness, no one felt disposed to pity them. I therefore sprang into their encampment, and pitching the remainder of their choice morsels into the snow, drove them out before me. Tra- velled through woods the whole day. Encamped at half-past three. Eighteen miles. " Thursday, the lltk. — Started at five, a.m. Soon fell on a large lake, on which we travelled till three, p.m., when we encamped. Thus far the lake extends S.E. and N.W., being about two miles in width. As ^Ir. Erlandson was the first European who had traversed these inhospitable wilds, I had the gratification of giving his name to the lake. It is reported by the natives to abound in fish of the best quality ; rein-deer are also said to be numerous at certain seasons of the year. Proceeded fifteen miles. Friday, the 12th. — Being immoderately cold, and the vdnd blowing direct in our faces, we could not attempt travelling on the lake. "Saturday, the ISth, — Weather fine. Left Erlandfon'tt Lake about om.-, a.m.; itAtill Jttrfctchfcd out before .u* a» far ajt the eye could tfz&ch, and cannot be lew than forty miles in length; it« medium brearlth, hoirever, does not exceed two miks and a half. The circumjacfent cocmtry « remarkably well wooded, eircn to the top* of thft highest hilLi, and is rfrported by the natives t/> abound in niarten«. A few induAtrious Indiana would not fail trj turn such advantages to good account ; bat th^y can avail thft Company very little, while the nativfcs alone are in pos-Homon of them- Wftnt on twenty-four miles. ** Sun/lay, the 1 \th. — Set off at five, a.31. Passed orer several small lalcea ; the cr>untry well wooded. Entered upon a small river about noon, the bank*, covered with large pine. Encamped at three, p.m. Advanced sixteen miles. *^ MwArvj, the \:)th. — Took our departure at seren, a.m. Travelled without halting the whole day. Eighteen miles. " Tuesday, the V,th. — Decasnped at five, a.m. ; the snow very deep in the woodii. Fell on Whale River at ten, a.m. Tine fac/; of the country EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH • presents scarcely any variety; from Erlandson's Lake to this river it is generally well w^ooded, but afterwards becomes extremely barren, nothing to be seen on both sides of the river but bare rocks. Proceeded sixteen miles. " Wednesday i the \lth. — Started at five, a.m. Our route in the morning led us through a chain of small lakes, and brought us out again on Wbale River, on which we travelled till four, p.m. The appearance of the country much the same as described yesterday. Proceeded eighteen miles. '* Thursday, the \Sth. — P. Neven being unable to travel from indisposition, I resolved on passing the day to await the issue, deeming his malady to be of no very serious nature. In the mean- time I took an exact account of my provisions which I found to be so far reduced, that no further assistance was required for its conveyance. I accordingly made the necessary arrangements to send the men back. *' Friday, the \9th. — Early in the morning, P. Neven (being now convalescent) and Mordoch THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR. 41 Ferguson set off on their return, whilst I and my party proceeded on our onward route. I re- tained a sled of dogs, intending to drive them myself. We travelled eleven miles on "Whale River, then struck across the country to the eastward. Encamped at four, p.m. Fourteen miles. " Saturday, the 20tk. — The moon affording no longer light to find our way in the night, we must now wait till daylight. Started at seven A.M. ; crossed a point of wood, chiefly larch, of a miserably small growth ; then came out on a large lake (comparatively speaking), on which we travelled till four, p.m. Thirteen miles. " Sunday, the 2\st. — Set off at seven a.m. About eleven, we fell on the fresh tracks of a large herd of deer, which my guides carefully examined ; their experience not only enabling them to determine the precise time they had passed, but the very spot where they were likely to be found, which they affirmed was close to us. My dogs being very much reduced, and not having the means of increasing their present modicum of food, I determined on availing my- c 3 42 EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH self of an opportunity which might not again occur of procuring a supply. The Indians ac- cordingly set off in quest of them, desiring us at their departure to make no fire until the sun had reached a certain position in the heavens which they pointed out to us. We made our encampment at the time appointed, and were soon joined by our hunters, dragging after them a fine doe ; they had got only one shot at the herd, which immediately took to the bare hills, where pursuit was in vain. Our guides being encamped by themselves, I was curious to ascer- tain by ocular evidence the manner in which the first kettle would be disposed of, nor did I wait long till my curiosity was gratified. The cannibals fell upon the half-cooked flesh with a voracity which I could not have believed even savages capable of; and in an incredibly short space of time the kettle was disposed of; — and this, too, after their usual daily allowance, which is equal to, and sometimes exceeds, that of the other men, who say they have enough. Pro- ceeded seven miles. *^ Monday, the''22d. — On examining the remains THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR. 43 of the deer this morning, I found my quadrupeds would benefit but little by my good intentions and loss of time, our guides having applied them- selves so sedulously to the doe during the night, as to leave but little for their canine brethren. We started at seven, a.m., the travelling very heavy in the w^oods. About noon we came upon a large lake, where we made better speed. Thirteen miles. " Tuesday^ the 23d. — Travelled through woods the greater part of the day ; encamped at four o'clock. Sixteen miles. " Wednesdai/i the 24:th. — Decamped at seven, a.m. Our route lay through swamps and small lakes, with strips of wood intervening. Martens appear to be numerous, but beavers must be extremely rare, for we have discovered no traces whatever of their existence anywhere along our route, though innumerable small lakes and rivers, such as beavers frequent, are to be met with in every direction ; but the country produces no food for them. At ten a.m. we arrived at a considerable lake, where my guides told me we had reached the highest land. On asking them if this were 44 ' EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH the lake where we intended to build, they pointed to the south-west, saying it was four days' journey off in that direction ! — so far had I been led from the route I intended to have followed, notwith- standing the perfect understanding I had with my perfidious guides prior to our departure from the establishment. Encamped at three, p.m. Twelve miles. " Thursday, the 25th. — Immediately on leaving our encampment, we fell on a large river flowing to the north-east, which I took to be George's River. We followed it for a short distance, and then directed our course over bare hills. En- camped at three, p.m. Eleven miles. " Friday, the 26th. — Having passed the night in a clump of small pines, whi.ch sheltered us from the inclemency of the weather, we were not aware of the violence of the storm which was raging round us, until, pursuing our route over a ridge of bare hills, we were completely exposed to its fury. We found the cold intense, the wind blowing in our faces, so that it was impossible to proceed. Observing a hummock of wood close THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR. 45 to US, we shaped our course for it, where we were no sooner arrived, than it began to snow and drift. The few trees to which we had retreated being far apart, and the wind blowing with the utmost violence, we experienced the greatest dif- ficulty in clearing an encampment. The storm continuing unabated, we passed a miserable day in our snow burrow. Two miles. '* Saturday, the 21th. — Arose from our com- fortless couche at half-past four. The snow hav- ing drifted over us, and being melted by the heat of the fire in the early part of the night, we found our blankets and capotes hard frozen in the morning. Thawing and drying them occupied us till nine a.m., when we set off". Snow very deeo. Proceeded nine miles. *' Sunday, the 2d)th. — Set ofi" at seven, a.m. Snow still increasing in depth, and our progress decreasing in proportion. At one, p.m., we came upon a large river flowing to the north, on which we travelled a short distance; then fol- lowed the course of a small stream running in an easterly direction. Leaving this stream, our 46 EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH route lay over marshes and small lakes ; the country flat, yielding dwarf pine intermixed with larch. Encamped at half-past four ; advanced eight miles. ''Monday, the ^Wi. — Started at seven. Ap- pearance of the country much the same as yesterday. Fifteen miles. " Tuesday, the SOth. — Decamped at seven. Weather mild, and walking heavy. Our principal guide appears rapidly declining in strength, which does not surprise me, considering the laborious duty he has had to perform ; always beating the track a-head, without being once relieved by his worthless associate. Fourteen miles. " Wednesday, the Slst. — Started at seven. Still very mild. Observed a few small birch trees. Encamped at four, p.m. Fifteen miles. Thursday, the 1st of February. — Started at the usual hour. We have been travelling through a very rough country for these two days past. The fact is, that our guides, having only passed here in summer, are unacquainted with the winter track. We are, therefore, evidently pursuing a - THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR. 47 circuitous course, which, with every other dis- advantage, subjects us to the risk of running short of provisions, — a contingency which our reduced stock warns us to prepare for ere long. We can afford no more food to the dogs ; their load is now transferred to the men's sleds. Fifteen miles. " Friday, the 2d. — Decamped at seven, a.m. Pursued our route over extensive swamps and small lakes, where there is scarcely any wood to be seen. The face of the surrounding country being level, the least elevation commands a most extensive view ; but the eye turns away in disgust from the cheerless prospect which the desolate flats present. I deemed it expedient to curtail our allowance of provisions this evening. Eighteen miles. *' Saturday, the Sd. — Set off at seven, a.m. Reached Michigama Lake at one, p.m. ; on which we travelled till five o'clock, when we encamped on an island. Proceeded twenty miles. " Sunday, the Mh. — Left our encampment at the usual hour. Halted for our scanty meal at 48 EXPLORIXG EXPEDITION THROUGH ten, A.M. After an hour's delay we resumed our march, and encamped at four, p.m., on an island near the mainland on the east side of the lake, having performed about twenty miles. I here repeated to the Indians my earnest wish to proceed to Esquimaux Bay, by North River, which takes its rise in this lake. They replied that nothing could induce them to comply with my wishes, as inevitable starvation would be the consequence; no game could be found by the way, and we would have, therefore, to depend solely on our own provisions, which were barely sufficient for the shortest route. I had thus the mortification to find, that I should entirely fail in accomplishing the main object I had in view in crossing the country. Monday, the 5th. — Decamped at seven, a.m. Reached the mainland at half-past eight; then ascended a river flowing from the north- east, which discharges itself into Michigama Lake, Pellican taking the lead, being the only one acquainted with this part of the country. The Indians shot an otter. No wood to be seen, THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR. 40 but miserably small pine, thinly scattered over the country. Encamped at Gull Lake. Fifteen miles. " Tuesday, the Qth. — Left our encampment at seven. Our guide lost his way about noon, which after an hour's search, he succeeded in finding; when we resumed our slow march, Pellican proceeding at a snail's pace, which neither threats nor entreaties could in the least accelerate. Encamped at five, p.m. Eleven miles. " Wednesday, the tth. — Started at half-past six, A.M. Arrived at the site of an extensive Indian camp, which appeared to have been recently occupied. Our guides knowing the Indians to be their friends from Ungava, and their trail leading in the direction of our route, required no longer to be urged on. An immediate impulse was given to Pellican's sluggish motions, increasing his speed to such a degree, that it required our utmost exertions to keep up with him. En- camped near a high fall on North-West River, which is here walled in by inaccessible precipices 50 EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH on both sides. The view above the fall is in- terrupted by stupendous rocks ; the natives say that the appearance of the river and surrounding country is the same from this fall to Michigama Lake ; the river is deemed to be impracticable for any kind of craft. Eighteen miles. " Thursday i the 8th. — Set off at seven, a.m. Fine travelling on the river. We passed two portages and rapids. Encamped at forty-five minutes past five. Twenty miles. " Friday, the 9th. — Decamped at seven. Tra- velling good; the banks of the river high and precipitous, and almost destitute of wood. We observed, however, a few birches. Encamped at six, P.M. Twenty miles. " Saturday, the lOtk. — Started at eight, a.m. About noon we arrived at a wide expansion of the river, where it suddenly bends to the west. Here we again quitted the river, directing our course to the eastward. The navigation of this part of the river is represented by the natives to be impracticable, and similar to the upper THE INTERIOR OF LABRADOR. 51 part. Our snow-shoes being the worse for wear, we encamped at an early hour for the purpose of repairing them. Advanced fifteen miles. "Sunday, the Wth. — Decamped at seven, a.m. Pursued our course through the roughest country I ever travelled. The appearance of it struck me as resembling the ocean when agitated by a storm, supposing its billows transformed into solid rock. We commenced ascending and de- scending in the morning, and kept at it till night. The men complained much of fatigue. Proceeded fourteen miles. "Monday, the V2th. — The weather being so much overcast that we could not find our way, we remained in our encampment till eight, a.m. En- camped at a quarter past five. Fifteen miles. " Tuesday, the loth. — Set ofi" at half-past seven, amidst a tremendous snow-storm, which continued without intermission the whole day; we sunk knee-deep in the snow, and found it not the most pleasant recreation in the world. About noon we passed a hut, which my guide told me had been the residence of a trader, two years ago. Late in 52 ARRIVE AT FORT SMITH. the evening we arrived at another hut, on North West River, where we found two of Mr. McGil- livray's people, who were stationed there for the purpose of trapping martens. Nine miles. " Wednesday, the \Uh. — The weather being unpropitious, and finding ourselves very snug in our present quarters, we passed the day enjoying the comfort of a roof. " Thursday , the \5th. — Left our Canadian hosts at early dawn ; the snow very deep on the river. Proceeded till ten, a.m., when D. Henderson was suddenly seized by a violent fit, which completely incapacitated him from travelling. Discovering a hut close by, a fire was immediately kindled in it, and a place prepared for our invalid to lie down ; in our present circumstances nothing more could be done. I waited by him till two, p.m., then pur- sued rr.y route, accompanied by the Indians, leav- ing H. Hay to take care of him. Accomplished fourteen miles. " Friday, the \Qth. — Set 03" at four, a.m. Ar- rived at dusk at Fort Smith, where, although I was well known, my Esquimaux dress and INTERVIEW WITH UNGAVA INDIANS. 53 long beard defied recognition, until I announced myself by name. " Saturday, the Vlth. — An Indian was despatched early in the morning, to meet my men with a supply of the north-west panacea, Turlington Balsam ; and I was glad to see them arrive in the evening, more in want of food than medicine." Two days after our arrival, all the Nascopie or Ungava Indians, at present residing in this part of the country, numbering seventy or eighty souls, came to the establishment, with the produce of their winter hunts. Mr. McGillivray and myself having come to an understanding regarding them, we both addressed them, representing to them the advantages they would derive from having posts so conveniently situated on their lands, &c. After some deliberation among themselves, they ex- pressed their intention to be guided by our advice, and to return forthwith to their lands. Having sent off my despatches by Indian couriers, for Mashquaro, on the 3d of March, to be forwarded thence to Canada, tia the Company's posts along the Gulf and River St. Lawrence, I sent H. Hay 54 INFLUENZA. for my guides (who had gone to pay the kettles of their friends a visit), preparatory to my departure hence, which has been deferred to a much later period than I had calculated upon, from the preva- lence of excessively bad weather for a fortnight. Hay, having met the Indians on the way, re- turned the same evening ; but they were so emaci- ated that I could scarcely recognise them, looking like so many spectres — a metamorphosis caused by the influenza, at that time prevalent in the country. My principal guide, however, declared himself able to proceed on the journey, with a light load ; and it was arranged that Pellican should accom- pany his relative. Two young men, who came in with my guide, appearing not quite so much re- duced as the others, I proposed to them to accom- pany me as far as Michigama Lake, to assist in hauling our provisions, which they consented to do; and they accordingly took their departure along with my guide, on the 4th of March. My- self and two men, along with my "husky" inter- preter, followed next morning ; but as we are to retrace our steps by the same way we came, it INFLUENZA. 55 will be unnecessary to narrate the occurrences of each day. We arrived in the evening at the first Indian camp, where I found one of the young men I had hired, relapsed into his former malady, and unable to proceed further. This, although a disappoint- ment, did not much affect me, as I had hopes my guide would be able to continue his route, from the circumstance of his having passed on to the farthest camp. When we arrived, about noon next day, and found, not only our guide, but every individual in the camp, suffering under the fatal malady, — this was the climax to my disappoint- ment. I determined on returning to Fort Smith, with my guide, where, by proper treatment, I hoped he might yet recover in time to admit of my returning before the end of the season. I accordingly returned, accompanied by H. Hay, who conducted the dog-sledge, on which I had placed my sick Indian, leaving D. Henderson in charge of the provisions, along with the Esqui- maux. On the morning of the 9th, I despatched H. Hay to join Henderson, with directions to haul 5Q DEPART FROM FORT SMITH. the provisions on to McGillivray's hut, there to await further orders. My guide, for a few days, appeared to be in a hopeless state, refusing sustenance of any kind, and became delirious. This was the crisis of the malady ; for he soon began to take some food, and recovered strength daily. He at length proposed to attempt the journey, to which I joyfully as- sented ; and once more took leave of Fort Smith, on the 19th of March, and joined ray men next day. Remaining two days, to give the guide time to recruit his strength, I started on the morning of the 23d; the Indians had recovered strength enough to enable them to proceed towards their winter deposit of provisions, near Michigama Lake, leaving us an excellent track. "We overtook them on the 26th. I found it impossible to separate my guide from his relatives while we pursued the same route. "We arrived on the 30th at their last stage, and encamped together. - Next morning as we were about to start, a message arrived from my guide, announcing his PROVISIONS RUN SHORT. 57 determination to proceed no farther, unless Pelli- can were permitted to accompany us. I sent for him immediately, and endeavoured to impress on his mind the unreasonableness of such a propo- sition, our provisions being scarcely sufficient for ourselves — that it vi'ould expose the vsrhole party to the risk of starvation ; but I addressed a thing without reason and without understanding, and was accordingly obliged, once more, to yield. We reached the highest land on the 2d of April, where, on examining our remaining stock of provisions, the alarming fact that it was altogether insufficient to carry us to the establishment, was but too apparent. It was therefore necessary to take immediate measures to avert, if possible, an evil that threatened so fearful consequences ; and the only course that presented itself was to divide into two parties, — the one to proceed with all possible despatch to the fort, by the shortest route, and to send forward a supply to the other, which it was anticipated would reach them ere they were reduced to absolute want. Pursuant to this resolution I set off, accom- VOL. IT. D 58 PROVISIONS RUN SHORT. panied by the guide and H. Hay ; leaving D. Hen- derson to make the best of his way, with the Esquimaux and Pellican. Having taken but a very small share of the provisions with us, and meeting with no game on the way, we were soon reduced to the utmost extremity. One of our dogs being starved to death, we were ultimately obliged to knock the surviving one on the head, to supply ourselves with what we considered, in present circumstances, " food for the gods.'.' Such as it was, it enabled us to keep soul and body together till we reached Fort Chimo, on the 20th of April, where we found all the Nascopies of this part of the country assembled to greet the arrival of their long-expected friends — our guides. I immediately selected a couple of smart-looking lads to go to meet my rear-guard, — the other ser- vants about the establishment, who were accus- tomed to snow-shoes, being absent, watching the deer. On the third day after their departure the couriers returned, with Pellican. On inquiring of the latter what had become of my men, he BASENESS OF INDIANS. 59 replied that he had left them encamped at a lake about sixty miles distant, where the Esquimaux, abandoning himself to despair, could not be pre- vailed upon to go a step farther ; and that he (Pellican) had been sent forward by Henderson to urge on the party whom they expected. They were within a day's journey of them ; and yet the wretches returned immediately on meeting Pelli- can, leaving the others to their fate. No Indians I had ever known would have acted so basely; yet these are an " unsophisticated race " of abori- gines, who have but little intercourse with the whites, and must, of course, be free from the contamination of their manners. Our hunters being now arrived, were sent off, without delay, in quest of the missing ; and I had the satisfaction to see my famished compagnons de voyage arrive, on the 26th of April. i>2 60 INLAND COMMUNICATION IMPRACTICABLE. CHAPTER IV. DISTRESSING BEREAVEMENT — EXPLORING PARTY — THEIR REPORT — ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX — ESTABLISH POSTS — POUNDING REIN-DEER — EXPEDITION UP GEORGE's RIVER — ITS DIFFICULTIES — HAMILTON RIVER — DISCOVER A STUPEN- DOUS CATARACT — RETURN BY GEORGE'S RIVER TO THE SEA — SUDDEN STORM, AND MIRACULOUS ESCAPE. Having thus ascertained the impracticability of the inland communication, I transmitted the result of my observations to the Governor — a report which, I doubt not, proved rather un- palatable to his Excellency, unaccustomed as he is to have any of his movements checked by that impudent and uncompromising word — impossible. I was much gratified to find that the deer-hunt had proved uncommonly successful ; so that I had now the means of carrying into effect the DISTRESSmG BEREAVEMENT. 61 Governor's instructions on this point. On the approach of spring, preparations were made for establishing a post inland ; guides were hired for the purpose, and every precaution taken to insure success. At this time I was visited by a very grievous affliction, in the loss of my beloved wife, whose untimely death left me in a more wretched con- dition than words can express. This was truly an eventful year for me ; — within that space I became a husband, a father, and a widower ; — I traversed the continent of America, performing a voyage of some 1,500 miles by sea, and a journey by land of fully 1,200 miles, on snow- shoes. As soon as the navigation became practicable (June 18), Mr. Erlandson set off for the interior, with his outfit, in three small canoes, and after much toil reached his destination on the 10th of July. On the return of the men who had assisted in the transport, I fitted out an expedition to explore the coast to the westward, with the view of ascertaining the capabilities of that quarter. G2 REPORT OF EXPLORING PARTY. for the extension of the business. The party was absent about a month ; and their report was entirely unfavourable to the project of carrying our " ameliorating system " so far. The naviga- tion of the coast is exceedingly dangerous, from the continual presence of ice, and the extraor- dinary force of the currents. While the coast • proved so inaccessible, the interior of the country wears a still more dreary and sterile aspect ; not a tree, nor shrub, nor plant of any kind, is to be seen, save the lichens that cover the rocks, and a few willows. The native Esquimaux, whom our people had seen, evinced the same amicable disposition by which their whole race is distin- guished. They received our people with open arms, and some of the young damsels seemed disposed to cultivate a closer intimacy with them than their ideas of propriety, or at least their olfactory nerves, would sanction. The effluvia that proceeds from their persons in the summer season is quite insufferable ; it is as if you applied your nose to a cask of rancid oil. In the course of the summer, several Esqui- DESPATCHES FROM CANADA. G3 maux arrived from the westward, with a consider- able quantity of fox-skins, — the only fur this barren country yields. Some of these poor creatures had passed nearly two years on their journey hither, being obhged to hunt or fish for their living as they travelled. They set off on their return with a little tobacco, or a few strings of beads; — very few having the means of pro- curing guns and ammunition. Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the month of September, when I was gratified by the arrival of despatches from Canada, by a junior clerk appointed to the district. By him we received the first intelligence of the stirring events that had taken place in the colonies during the preceding year. The accounts of the triumphs of my countrymen's arms over French treachery and Yankee hatred, diverted my thoughts, for the first time, from the melancholy subject of my late bereavement ; the thoughts of which my soli- tude served rather to cherish than dispel. Having learned from the natives that a river fell into the bay, about eighty miles to the east- 64 ESTABLISH POSTS. ward, tliat offered greater facilities for carrying on the business in the interior than our present communication, I ordered the men who had as- sisted Mr. Erlandson, to descend by this river, — an enterprise which was successfully accom- plished. Their report confirming that of the natives, I forthwith determined on establishing a post there ; and the season being now far ad- vanced, I had no sooner decided on the step than I set about carrying it into execution. A party was despatched with every requisite for the pur- pose, about the 15th of September; and I re- ceived a communication from them in October, informing me that they had discovered a con- venient situation for erecting the buildings. The materials being found on the spot, and the men aware of the approach of winter, and straining every nerve to secure themselves against its rigours, the buildings, such as they were, were raised and already occupied. In the early part of winter, being, I may say, entirely alone, — for there remained only one man and an interpreter with me, — I amused myself by DIFFICULTY IN FORWARDING DESPATCHES. 65 shooting partridges, which abounded in the neigh- bourhood that season ; but the cold became so excessive as the winter advanced, that I was com- pelled to forego that amusement, and confine myself to the four walls of my prison, with the few books I possessed as my only companions. My despatches for the civilized world being com- pleted, I was altogether at a loss how to forward them, as none of the natives could be induced, even by a high reward, to undertake the journey. At length one was found who consented to accom- pany one of my men to Mr. Erlandson's post, but no farther. My couriers were absent six weeks, and I had the mortification to learn on their return that the packet remained at the outpost, owing to an acci- dent that befel one of the Indian guides, and which incapacitated him for the trip. Our fiiends would thus remain in ignorance of our fate for nearly two years. The report received regarding the inland adventure proved very satisfactory as far as the trade was concerned ; but the privations suffered by those engaged in it, it was painful to d3 66 POUNDING REINDEER. leatn ; their sole subsistence consisted of fish, rendered extremely unpalatable from the damage it had sustained from the heat of the sun, and a few rabbits and partridges. Who would not be an Indian trader ? Early in the month of March the rein-deer made their appearance again, and every counte- nance brightened up at the thoughts of the ap- proaching pastime. I fell on a plan, however, that divested the sport of much of its attractions, although calculated to ensure greater success. A favourable position being selected, a certain ex- tent of ground was fenced in so as to form a " pound" of nearly a circular shape, a gap being left in it to admit the game from the river side. This done, I caused branches to be placed on the ice above and below the deer pass, which the animals observing, became alarmed, and running fro:n side to side of the open space between the lines of branches, at length made a dash at the opposite side of the river, and entered the trap prepared for them at a gallop, continuing at the top of their speed until stopped by the upper POUNDING REIN-DEER. 67 part of the '* pound," when they wheeled round, and making for the entrance, were received with a volley of balls from the huntsmen ; a continual fire being kept up upon them in this manner until they all dropped. The scene presented by the slaughter was any- thing but agreeable, yet stern necessity compelled me to continue the butchery ; and the success that attended my scheme far exceeded my expecta- tions. The first herd that entered, in number about fifty, burst through the fence ; but our works were immediately strengthened, so as to defy their efibrts in future to escape. A herd of 300 was soon after entrapped, and in the course of two hours all were killed. Having thus obtained an ample stock of pro- visions, the different parties employed at the fish- ing and hunting stations were recalled, and pre- parations were begun for our summer campaign, in which I determined to take an active part. The favourable report of last summer respecting the East or George's River, combined with reports that had reached me since of another large river Si! 68 EMBARK FOR flowing a short distance to the south of Esqui- maux Bay, suggested the possibility of carrying on our business on this line of communication. With the view, therefore, of carrying this design into effect, I had a boat built in the course of the winter, in which I embarked with a strong crew on the 25th of June, the river not being clear of ice at an earlier period ; and sweeping down on the top of the current at railroad speed, reached the sea in about three hours. It being still early in the day, and no ice to be seen, we pulled for the opposite side of the bay, in the hope of reaching it ere dark. The weather being perfectly calm we advanced rapidly, and had proceeded about seven miles with every prospect of effecting our purpose, when lo ! the tide was observed to be making against us ; and the ice returning with it, apparently in a compact body, we were placed in rather a critical situation. The sun was declining, while the coast presented a solid wall of ice, which precluded the possibility of landing anywhere nearer than the mouth of South River. GEORGES RIVER. 69 Towards that point, therefore, the head of the boat was directed, and the crew, seeing the im- minence of the danger, rowed with all their might ; and by dint of strenuous exertions, we made good our landing ere the ice closed in around us. A few minutes after not a speck of water could be descried. Next morning, the ice still covered the bay, leaving only a narrow strip of open water along the shore ; into this channel we pushed our boat, and for some time made but little progress, being continually interrupted by pieces of ice, which the high tide detached from the shore. Our channel, however, soon widened, and in a short time not a particle of ice could be seen, disap- pearing as if by magic ; for in a few minutes after it began to move, no traces of it could be disco- vered as far as the eye could reach to seaward. We reached East or George's River, without further interruption, on the 3d or July, where we were detained by unfavourable weather until the 5th. The post established here last autumn is situ- 70 EXPEDITION UP GEORGES RIVER. ated in a still more cheerless spot than Fort Chimo, being surrounded by rugged hills, whose sides are covered with the debris of rock, which appears to have been detache 1 from the hills by the process of decay. The post stands at the foot of one of those frightful hills, while another rises immediately in front ; the intervening valleys, or cavities, present nothing to enliven the scene, save a few stunted pines, and here and there a patch of snow. The few Esquimaux who inhabit this region of sterility and desolation, at first appeared de- lighted with the idea of having whites among them : finding, however, that our presence yielded them no advantage, they soon became indifferent about us, and proceeded to the Moravian settle- ment with the produce of their hunts, where they obtained their little wants at a far cheaper rate than our tariff allowed. My crew, leaving Fort Siviright, consisted of ten able men ; and an Indian guide accompa- nied us in his canoe. As we ascended, our diffi- culties increased at every step, the water being ITS DIFFICULTIES 71 much lower than last year. I found myself en- gaged in a more laborious work than I had ever yet undertaken — towing the boat day after day against a current flowing in a continuous rapid, so as to admit of not one moment's relaxation, unless during the short interval allowed for rest to such as could take it — no easy matter when myriads of sand-flies and mosquitoes filled the air and tortured us incessantly. We continued to advance in this manner, haul- ing, pulling, carrying, and even launching the boat for about fifteen days, when we reached an expansion of the river, without any perceptible current, and sufl5ciently deep to admit of the use of the oar. Our labour was now supposed to be at an end by those who had explored the river ; no further doubts were entertained as to our soon reaching Esquimaux Bay, where letters from our friends and news from all quarters would reward us for all our toils. Let not him who knows not what it is to be shut out from his friends, society, and the great world, year after year, think lightly 72 EXPEDITION UP George's river. of the reward which the solitary trader, in his remote seclusion, values so highly. Our hopes, however, were soon dissipated. Having reached the upper extremity of the still water, we encoun- tered difficulties that defied every attempt to surmount. The lake just referred to proved to be the source of the lower stream ; the rivulet that flowed into it from above being so shallow as scarcely to admit of the passage of a small canoe. It was therefore impossible to proceed with the boat, a circumstance that placed me in a rather perplexing position ; for I had the outfit for the interior in charge, without which the business, so lately established with every prospect of success, would fail. There was, however, no time to be lost in vain regrets; the advanced period of the season required instant decision, and our stock of provisions was diminishing rapidly. I therefore determined on proceeding to the outpost in the small canoe belonging to our guide, taking two of the men with me, and leaving the rest of the crew to erect ITS DIFFICULTIES. 73 a temporary post ; and in the mean time sent my guide to apprize the Indians in the vicinity of the steps I had taken to supply their wants next winter. These arrangements completed, I embarked in an eggshell of a canoe, so small as not to admit of anything save the smallest possible supply of provisions, — tent, basket, &c. remaining behind. Soon after leaving our encampment, we came to a portage some ten miles in length, and struck the river again, where, from the report of the men, I expected no further difficulties would impede our progress. But the event did not answer my ex- pectations ; from the continual drought of the season the water proved so low that we had to drag along our canoe, wading in the water, where a boat would have passed with ease last year. In this manner we continued our toilsome voyage without relaxation for several days, carrying our canoe and baggage overland, or wading in the water from early dawn until late at night, when we threw ourselves down on the ground to pass the night without shelter from the weather or 74 REACH THE POST. protection from the stings of our merciless perse- cutors the mosquitoes, who pursued their avoca- tion with unwearied assiduity, so that our rest was small, and that little afforded us but scanty re- freshment. Our progress, but slow, from the difficulties of the route, was rendered still slower by our fre- quent deviations from our course ; my guides having paid but little attention to their instruc- tions last year. We at length reached the post on the 16th of August, half starved, half naked, and half devoured. A friendly reception, and the good cheer the place afforded, soon restored our spirits, if not our " inexpressibles ; " and al- though much annoyed that no Indians could be induced to guide us to Esquimaux Bay, I deter- mined on making the attempt with such assistance as Mr. Erlandson could give me, who was wall acquainted with the upper part of the river. After one day's rest, we embarked in a canoe sufficiently large to contain several conveniences, to which I had been for some time a stranger, — a tent to shelter us by night, and tea to cheer us DISCOVER A CATARACT. 75 by day ; we fared, too, like princes, on the pro- duce of " sea and land," procured by the net and the gun. We thus proceeded gaily on our down- ward course without meeting any interruption, or experiencing any difficulty in finding our way ; when, one evening, the roar of a mighty cataract burst upon our ears, warning us that danger was at hand. We soon reached the spot, which pre- sented to us one of the grandest spectacles in the world, but put an end to all hopes of success in our enterprise. About six miles above the fall the river suddenly contracts, from a width of from four hundred to six hundred yards, to about one hundred yards; then rushing along in a continuous foaming rapid, finally contracts to a breadth of about fifty yards, ere it precipitates itself over the rock which forms the fall ; when, still roaring and foaming, it continues its maddened course for about a distance of thirty miles, pent up between walls of rock that rise sometimes to the height of three hundred feet on either side. This stu- pendous fall exceeds in height the Falls of Nia- 76 IMPRACTICABILITY OF gara, but bears no comparison to that sublime object in any other respect, being nearly hidden from the view by the abrupt angle which the rocks form immediately beneath it. If not seen, however, it is felt; such is the extraordinary force with which it tumbles into the abyss under- neath, that we felt the solid rock shake under our feet, as we stood two hundred feet above the gulf. A dense cloud of vapour, which can be seen at a great distance in clear weather, hangs over the spot. From the fall to the foot of the rapid — a distance of thirty miles — the zigzag course of the river presents such sharp angles, that you see nothing of it until within a few yards of its banks. Might not this circumstance lead the geologist to the conclusion that the fall had receded this distance ? The mind shrinks from the contem- plation of a subject that carries it back to a period of time so very remote ; for if the rock, syenite, always possessed its present solidity and hardness, the action of the water alone might require mil- lions of years to produce such a result ! After carrying our canoe and baggage for a OUR EXPEDITION. 77 whole day through bogs, and swamps, and wind- falls, in the hope of finding the river accessible, we at length gave up the attempt ; and with heavy hearts and weary limbs retracing our steps, we reached the outpost, without accident, after an absence of fifteen days. Finding it impossible to remove either the returns, or the small quantity of goods remaining on hand, I determined on leaving a couple of the men to pass the winter here ; and Mr. Erlandson accompanied me to assume the charge of the temporary post, where I had left his outfit. Here we arrived on the 1st of September, and I was delighted at finding my men living in the midst of abundance ; — the surrounding country apparently abounding with rein-deer, and the lake affording fish of the best quality. I remained with the men two days to expedite the buildings which were yet unfinished ; and in the meantime a party of Indians arrived, whom we persuaded to carry our despatches to Esquimaux Bny. After seeing my couriers off, I left Mr. Erland- son with two men to share his solitude, and 78 SUDDEN STORM. reached the sea without experiencing any adven- ture worth notice. Proceeding along the coast, I was induced, one evening, by the flattering appearance of the weather, to attempt the passage of a deep bay; which being accomplished, there was little danger of being delayed afterwards by stress of weather. This step I soon had cause to repent. The sea hitherto presented a smooth surface ; not a breath of wind was felt, and the stars shone out brightly. A few clouds began to appear on the horizon ; and the boat began to rise and fall with the heaving of the sea. Un- derstanding what these signs portended, we imme- diately pulled for the shore ; but had scarcely altered our course when the stars disappeared, a tremendous noise struck upon our ears from seaward, and the storm was upon us. In the impenetrable obscurity of the night, not a trace of land could be discovered ; but we continued to ply our oars, while each succeeding billow threatened immediate destruction. The horrors of our situation increased; the man on the out-look called out that he saw breakers BREAKERS A-HEAD. 79 a-head in every direction, and escape appeared to be next to impossible. My crew of Scottisli Islanders, however, continued their painful ex- ertions without evincing the apprehensions they must have felt, by a murmur. The crisis was now at hand. We approached so near to the breakers that it was impossible to avoid them ; and the men lay on their oars, expecting the next moment would be their last. In such a situation the thoughts of even the most depraved naturally carry them beyond the limits of time ; and by these thoughts, I believe, the soul of every one was absorbed ; yet the men lost not their presence of mind. Suddenly, the voice of the look-out was heard amid the roar of the breakers, calling our attention to a dark breach in the line of foam that stretched out before us, which he fancied to be a channel be- tween the rocks. A few desperate strokes brought us to the spot, when, to our unspeakable joy, we found it to answer the man's conjecture ; but, so narrow was the passage, that the oars on both sides of the boat struck the rocks; a minute 80 MIRACULOUS ESCAPE. afterwards we found ourselves becalmed and in safety. The boat being moored, and the men ordered to watch by turns, we lay down to sleep, as we best could, supperless, and without having tasted food since early dawn. The wind still blew fresh on the ensuing morn- ing ; but we found, to our great satisfaction, that we had entered a kind of channel that lay along the shore, where we were protected from the storm by the innumerable rocky islets that stretched along the mainland. Regarding the labyrinth of islands through which we had effected a passage in the darkness, we were struck with wonder at our escape ; and felt convinced that the hand of Providence alone could have guided us through such perils in safety. ESQUIMAUX ARRIVE ON A RAFT. 81 CHAPTER V. ESQUIMAUX AKEIVE FROM THE NORTH SHORE OP HUDSON'S STRAIT, ON A RAFT — DESFATCH FROM THE GOVERNOR — DISTRESS OF THE ESQUIMAUX — FORWARD PROVISIONS TO MR. E . RETURN OP THE PARTY— THEIR DEPLORABLE CONDITION. We reached Fort Chirac on the 20th September. A greater number of Esquimaux were assembled about the post than I had yet seen ; and among them I was astonished to find a family from the north side of the Strait, and still more astonished when I learned the way they had crossed — a raft formed of pieces of drift wood picked up along the shore, afibrded the means of effecting the hazardous enterprise. On questioning them what was their object in VOL. II. E 82 AMERICA PEOPLED FROM ASIA. risking their lives in so extraordinary an adven- ture, they replied, that they wanted wood to make canoes, and visit the Esquimaux on the south side of the Strait. " And what if you had been overtaken by a storm ? " said I. *' We should all have gone to the bottom," was the cool reply. In fact, they had made a very narrow escape, a storm having come on just as they landed on the first island. The fact of these people having crossed Hud- son's Strait on so rude and frail a conveyance, strongly corroborates, I think, the opinion that America was originally peopled from Asia. The Asiatic side of Behring's Strait affording timber sufficiently large for the purpose of building boats or canoes, there seems nothing improbable in supposing that, when once in possession of that wonderful and useful invention — a boat, they might be induced, even by curiosity — that power- ful stimulus to adventure — to visit the nearest island, and from thence proceed to the continent ARRIVAL OF DESPATCHES. 83 of America ; and finding it, perhaps, possessed of superior advantages to the shores they had left, settle there. My voyageur was evidently induced as much by curiosity as by the desire of procuring a canoe, to visit the south side of Hudson's Strait, where the passage is as wide as between the island in Behring's Strait and the two continents. At an early period of the winter I was gratified by the arrival of despatches from the civilized world. The packet was found by the Indians at Esquimaux Bay, whither I had sent them, and forwarded to me by Mr. Erlandson's two men. By his letters I was grieved to learn that starva- tion stared him in the face ; the fishing, that promised so well when I passed, having entirely failed, and no deer were to be found. He wrote me, however, that he would maintain his post while a piece of parchment remained to gnaw ! The Governor's letters conveyed the thanks of the Governor and Committee for my " laudable exertions ;" while his Excellency intimated, in language not to be misunderstood, that my pro- £2 84 DESPATCH FKOM THE GOVERNOR. motion depended on my successful management of the affairs of Ungava, " which he regretted to find were still in an unpromising state." What effect this announcement had on my feelings need not be mentioned — after a painful servitude of eighteen years thus to be compelled to make renewed, and even impossible exertions ere I obtained the reward of my toil, while many others had reached the goal in a much shorter time without experiencing either hardship or privation, — the injustice I had sufiered, or the deceit that had been practised on me. As a balm to my wounded feelings, my correspondents in the north informed me that seven clerks had been promoted since I left Norway House. Many of the Esquimaux referred to in a preceding page passed the winter in this quarter, not daring to return in consequence of an hostile rencontre they had had with some of their own tribes on their way hither. The quarrel, like most Indian quarrels, originated in an attempt to carry off women : both parties had recourse to arms, DISTRESS OF THE ESQUIMAUX. 85 and a desperate struggle ensued, in which our visitors were completely defeated, with the loss of several lives. They remained about the post for a short time, admiring its wonderful novelties — wonderful to them — and then proceeded some distance up the river to waylay the deer that had already crossed unobserved by them. The poor creatures, un- aware of this fact, remained on the ground until every article that afforded any kind of sustenance was consumed; when they started for the post, leaving the weaker of the party to follow as they best could. They all arrived the same day except two widows, who had lost their husbands in the fray. I sent off two young men with a supply of provisions to meet them, but the wretches, having devoured the food, returned without the women, although I had previously supplied their own wants. Next morning I sent off one of my own men, accompanied by an Esquimaux ; but, as might have been expected, the women were found lying dead on the ice near each other. Although Mr. Erlandson did not particularly 86 FORWARD PROVISIONS request any assistance from me, the report he communicated as to the failure of provisions was sufficient to induce me to use my best endeavours to relieve his wants. With this view I hired an Indian lad to act as guide to a party whom I despatched overland with the necessary supplies. The guide assured me they would perform the journey, going and coming, in a month. The appointed period passed, and no accounts of them ; and week after week, until I at last despaired of ever seeing them in life. At the end of about two months they made their ap- pearance, but in so deplorable a state of emaci- ation that we could scarcely recognise them. The roads proved so bad that they were nearly a month on their way going, and consequently they had consumed almost all the provisions they had for the whole trip. Mr. Erlandson's scanty supply not allowing him to affiard them any assistance for their return, they commenced their journey homeward with one meal a day, which they continued until all was gone, when they fed on their dogs ; and they finally arrived at the TO MR. EULANDSON. 87 house without having tasted any kind of food for three days. Their spectre-like forms excited the greatest pity ; the interpreter, who came to tell me of their arrival, was in tears. No time was lost in administering relief; but the greatest caution was necessary in administering it, or the conse- quences might have been fatal. I was mortified to find, on the approach of spring, that my stock of goods did not admit of supplying the interior ; and I was consequently compelled to relinquish the advantages that had cost us so much to acquire. Without goods we could not, of course, maintain our position in that quarter. 68 TRIP TO ESQUIMAUX BAY. CHAPTER VI. TRIP TO ESQUIMAUX BAY — GOVERNOR'S INSTRUCTIONS — MY REPORT TO THE COMMITTEE — RECOMMEND THE ABANDON- MENT OF UNGAVA SETTLEMENT — SUCCESS OP THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION, CONDUCTED BY MESSRS. DEASE AND SIMPSON — RETURN BY SEA TO FORT CHIMO — NARROWLY ESCAPE SHIPWRECK IN THE UNGAVA RIVER — INHUMAN AND IM- POLITIC MEASURE OF THE GOVERNOR— CONSEQUENT DISTRESS AT THE POST. Immediately on the opening of the navigation I started for Esquimaux Bay, vv^ith two Indians, in a small canoe, and without any of the usual conveniences. Mr. Erlandson having been ordered to the southern department, followed in another canoe. Arrived at the post, we were gratified by the receipt of despatches just come to hand by the ship. governor's ixstructioxs. 89 The Governor's letter apprized me that a vessel would be sent round to Ungava every alternate year ; and strictly enjoined me to have no further communication with Esquimaux Bay overland, "as much unnecessary expense was incurred by these journeys." Thus were we consigned to our fate for a period of two years with as little feehng as if we had been so many cattle, and debarred from all communication with our friends, by word or letter, merely to save a trifling expense ! Could the Honourable Company be swayed by so paltry a consideration in subjecting us to so grievous an inconvenience ? Surely not ; a body of men so respectable could neither have autho- rized nor sanctioned such sordid parsimony. The generous proposition originated with Mr. Simpson alone, and to him be the honour ascribed. Being fully persuaded in my own mind of the utter liopelessness of the Ungava adventure, I transmitted a report to the Governor and Com- mittee on the subject; recommending the aban- donment of the settlement altogether, as the enormous expense of supplying us by sea pre- e3 90 succp:ss of tue arctic expedition eluded the idea of any profit being ever realised ; while it was quite evident the Company's bene- volent views toward the Esquimaux could not be carried into effect. The extreme poverty and barrenness of their country, and their perti- nacious adherence to their seal -skin dresses, which no argument of ours could induce them to exchange for the less comfortable articles of European clothing, were insurmountable obstacles. The Honourable Company, while they wished to supply the wants of the Esquimaux, still urged the expediency of securing the trade of the interior. A circumstance that came to my knowledge in the course of the winter promised the attain- ment of that object. I learned from an old Indian, that the fall and rapid I met with on my way to the sea the preceding season, could be avoided, by following a chain of small lakes. My informant had never seen those falls himself, and could, from the oral report he had heard, give but a very imperfect description of the route. Still, I determined on making another attempt BY MESSRS. SIMPSOX AND DEASE. 91 to explore the whole river, knowing well, that if I succeeded in discovering the new route, there could be no further difficulty in supplying the interior. Meantime, I was gratified to learn, by letters from my friend Mr. Dease, that the ex- pedition in which he had been engaged was crowned with success; — the long sought-after north-west passage being at length laid open to the knowledge of mankind, and a question, that at one time excited the enterprise of the merchant and the curiosity of the learned, settled beyond a doubt. While on this subject, 1 cannot help expressing my surprise at the manner Mr. D ease's name is mentioned in the published narrative of the expedition, where he is represented as being employed merely as purveyor. It might have been said with equal propriety that Mr. Simpson was employed merely as astronomer. The fact is, the services of both gentlemen were equally necessary; and to the prudence, judgment, and experience of Mr. Dease, the successful issue of the enterprise may undoubtedly be ascribed, no 92 RETURN TO FOKT CHIMO. less than to the astronomical science of Mr. Simpson. Having finished my correspondence, I embarked for Fort Chimo, on board a brig that had been recently built for the trade of this district and that of Esquimaux Bay. Our passage afforded no adventure worthy of notice ; icebergs we saw in abundance, whose dimensions astonished us, but having no desire to form a close acquaintance with them, we kept at a respectful distance ; and finally entered the Ungava River, on the 24th of August, at so early an hour of the day, that we expected to reach the post ere night-fall. We were doomed to disappointment. As we ascended the river, the breeze fell, and darkness set in upon us; yet we still pressed on. Pre- sently, however, so dense a fog arose, that nothing could be seen a yard off. In this dilemma our safest course would have been to anchor, but unfortunately that part of the river was the most unfavourable possible for our purpose, from the extraordinary strength of the current, and the rocky nature of the bottom. Our skipper seemed NARROWLY ESCAPE SHIPWRECK. 93 quite at a loss, but accident decided. The vessel struck, altered her course a little, struck again, put about, and struck again and again. The anchor was dropped as the only chance of escaping the dangers in which we were involved. The anchor dragged a short time, and finally caught appa- rently in a cleft of the rocks. Soon after the tide began to flow, and we fancied our dangers over; but the crisis was not yet come. The ebb-tide returned, rushing down with the current of the river with such over- whelming velocity, that we expected the vessel would be torn from her moorings. Two men were placed at the helm to keep her steady, but, in spite of their utmost exertions, she was dashed from side to side like a feather, while the current pitched into her till the water entered the hawse- holes. Pitehing, and swinging, and dashed about in this fearful manner for some time, the anchor was at length disengaged, and dragged along the bottom with a grating noise, which, with the roaring of the rapid, and the whistling of the wind through the rigging, formed a combination of 94 NARROWLY ESCAPE SUIPWRECK. sounds that would have appalled the most reso- lute. The fog having cleared away, we discovered a point projecting far into the river, some two hundred yards below, towards which we were drifting broadside, and rapidly nearing. The boats were got ready, to escape, if possible, the impending catastrophe, when the vessel was sud- denly brought to with a tremendous jerk, and instantly swung round to the tide. By this time, however, its strength was considerably abated, and daylight soon appearing, I sent on an Esqui- maux who had come on board, with a note to the post, requesting that a pilot should be sent us with the utmost despatch. Meantime, seeing our way clear before us, we weighed anchor, and advanced to within three miles of the establishment, when a boat was seen approaching, rowed by six stout islanders. On coming along-side, a rope was thrown to them, and made fast to the fore-stem. Four of the men had scrambled on board, when a sudden blast swelled our sails, and propelled us through the water with such force, that the fore-part of SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS. 95 the boat was torn away, leaving one of the men floundering in the water, and the other clinging to the rope. The latter was dragged on board, severely bruised ; but the former remained in the water for at least two hours, and would have perished before our eyes, had he not got hold of a couple of oars, by which he managed to keep himself afloat. We soon anchored opposite the post, and every exertion being made to expedite the departure of the vessel, we were in the course of a few days left to vegetate in quiet. On examining the quantity of provisions I had received, I was not a little alarmed to find it scarcely sufficient for the consumption of one year, his Excellency's communication having ac- quainted me that it was a supply for two years ! Thus we were thrown on the precarious resources of the country for life or for death ; for if those resources should fail us, we must either remain and starve on the spot, or, abandoning the settle- ment, endeavour to escape to Esquimaux Bay and run the risk of starving by the way. Economy so ill-timed argued as little in favour of the Gover- 96 DISTRESS AT THE FORT. nor's judgment as of his humanity. Admitting our lives were of so trifling a value, the abandon- ment of the settlement, with all the goods and furs in it, would have subjected the Company to a very serious loss. Every precaution, however, was taken to provide against a contingency which involved such serious consequences ; the men were dispersed in every direction to shift for themselves, some being supplied with guns and ammunition, others with nets, a lake of considerable extent having been lately discovered, which the natives reported to abound with fish. Early in the month of December my fishermen came in with the mor- tifying intelligence of the entire failure of the fishery ; and soon after a messenger arrived from the hunting party to beg a supply of provisions, which my limited means, alas ! compelled me to deny. Not a deer had been seen, and the par- tridges had become so scarce of late that they barely afforded' the means of sustaining life. All I could therefore do for my poor men was to supply them with more ammunition and send them off again. DISTRESS AT THE FORT. 97 While their lot was thus wretched, mine was not enviable ; one solitary meal a day was all I allowed myself and those who remained with me ; and I must do them the justice to say, that they submitted to these privations without a murmur, being aware that it was only by exer- cising the most rigid economy that our provisions could hold out the allotted time ; the arrival of the ship being an event too uncertain to be calcu- lated upon. By stinting ourselves in this manner, we managed to eke out a miserable subsistence, >vithout expending much of our imported provi- sions, until the arrival of the deer in the month of March, when we fared plentifully if not sump- tuously. 98 ARRIVE AT ESQUIMAUX BAY. CHAPTER VII. ANOTHER EXPLORING EXPEDITION — MT PROMOTION — WINTER AT CHIMO — OBTAIN PERMISSION TO VISIT BRITAIN — UN- GAVA ABANDONED. 1841. — On the opening of the navigation I set out on another exploring expedition. Without entering into particulars so devoid of interest, I would merely observe that, with patience and perseverance, we ultimately succeeded in making good our passage by the Hamilton, or Grand River, and found it to answer our expectations in every respect. On arriving at Esquimaux Bay, we found the vessel from Quebec riding at anchor — a joyful sight, since it gave assurance that we should hear MY PROMOTION. 99 from friends and relatives, and receive intelligence of the events that had occurred in the world for the last twelve months. The Governor's com- munication acquainted me with my promotion, and sincerely congratulated me on the event. Whether I had reason or not to doubt his sin- cerity, let the reader judge who knows the treat- ment I had experienced at his hands. Fifteen years ago I was assured of being in the " direct road to preferment," — twenty years of toil and misery have I served to obtain it. Considering myself, therefore, under no obliga- tion to his Excellency, I addressed a letter to the Directors, expressing my thanks for the benefit they had conferred upon me, and requesting per- mission to visit the land of my nativity next year. I was fortunate enough to find a couple of canoes at Esquimaux Bay, suflficiently large to admit of conveying an outfit to the interior, and equally fortunate to find Mr. Davis, the gentleman in charge of the district, possessed the will and ability to promote my views. All my arrange- ments at this place being completed, I set oflf on 100 WINTER AT CHIMO. my return, and was happy to find, on my arrival at the outpost, that the outfit was rendered in safety, not the slightest accident having occurred on the way. I arrived at Fort Chimo in the beginning of. October. The dreary winter setting in imme- diately, we commenced the usual course of vege- tative existence ; and I consider it as unnecessary as it would be uninteresting to say anything further concerning it than that this season passed vnthout our being subjected to such grievous privation as during the last. The greater part of the people being distributed among the out- posts, reduced our expenditure of provisions so much, that I felt I had nothing now to fear on the score of starvation ; and the precautions I had taken the preceding winter enabled us not only to indulge occasionally in the luxuries of bread- and-butter, but also to contemplate the possibility of the non-arrival of the ship without much anxiety. 1842. — On the opening of the navigation I again set out for Esquimaux Bay, where I found UNGAVA ABANDONED. lOl letters from the Secretary, conveying the welcome intelligence that my request for permission to visit Britain had been granted, and that the Directors, agreeably to my recommendation, had determined on abandoning Ungava, the ship being ordered round this season to convey the people and pro- perty to Esquimaux Bay. 102 CLIMATE OF UNGAVA. CHAPTER VIII. GENERAL REMARKS. CLIMATE OF UNGAVA. — AURORA BOREALIS — SOIL — VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS — ANIMALS — BIRDS — FISH — GEOLOGICAL FEA- TURES. It need scarcely be observed that, in so high a latitude as that of Ungava, the climate presents the extremes of heat and cold ; the moderate temperature of spring and autumn is unknown, the rigour of winter being immediately succeeded by the intense heat of summer, and vice versa. On the 12th of June, 1840, the thermometer was observed to rise from 10° below zero to 76° in the shade, the sky clear and the weather calm ; this was, in fact, the first day of summer. For ten days previously the thermometer ranged UNGAVA SUMMER. 103 from 15° below zero to 32° above, and the weather was as boisterous as in the month of January, snowing and blowing furiously all the time. The heat continued to increase, till the thermo- meter frequently exhibited from 85° to 100° in the shade. This intense heat may, no doubt, be owing in a considerable degree to the re- flection of the solar rays from the rocky surface of the country, a great part of which is destitute of vegetation. "When the wind blows from the sea the atmosphere is so much cooled as to become disagreeable. These vicissitudes are frequently experienced during summer, and are probably caused by the sea's being always en- cumbered by ice. It is remarkable that the severest cold in this quarter is invariably accom- panied by stormy weather; whereas, in the interior of the continent, severe cold always produces calm. The winter may be said to commence in October; by the end of this month the ground is covered with snow, and the rivers and smaller lakes are frozen over; the actions of the tide, 104 UNQAVA WINTER. however, and the strength of the current, often keep Ungava River open till the month of January. At this period I have neither seen, read, nor heard of any locality under heaven that can offer a more cheerless abode to civilized man than Ungava. The rumbling noise created by the ice, when driven to and fro by the force of the tide, continually stuns the ear; while the light of heaven is hidden by the fog that hangs in the air, shrouding everything in the gloom of a dark twilight. If Pluto should leave his own gloomy mansion in tenebris tartari, he might take up his abode here, and gain or lose but little by the exchange^ " The parched ground burns frore, and cold performs The effect of fire." — Milton. When the river sets fast, the beauties of the winter scene are disclosed — one continuous surface of glaring snow, with here and there a clump of dwarf pine, or the bald summits of barren hills, from which the violence of the winter storms sweep away even the tenacious lichens. WINTER STORMS. 105 The winter storms are the most violent I ever experienced, sweeping every thing before them ; and often prove fatal to the Indians when overtaken by them in places where no shelter can be found. The year previous to my arrival, a party of Indians ventured out to a barren island in the bay in quest of deer, taking their women along with them. While engaged in the chase, a sudden storm compelled them to make for the mainland with all possible speed. The women were soon exhausted by their ex- ertions, and, unable to proceed farther, were at length covered by the snow, and left to their fate. As soon as the fury of the storm abated, the men went in search of them ; but in vain ; they were never found. During winter the sky is frequently illuminated by the Aurora Borealis even in the day-time ; and I have observed that when the south wind, the coldest in this quarter, (traversing, as it does, the frost-bound regions of Canada and Labrador,) blows for any length of time, the sky becomes clear, and the aurora disappears. No sooner, VOL. II. F 106 AURORA BOREALIS. however, does the east wind blow, which, being charged with the vapours of the Atlantic, induces mild weather even in midwinter, than they again dart forth their coruscations — more brightly at first, afterwards more faintly, till, if the wind continue, they again disappear. These phenomena seem to warrant the con- clusion that the aurora is produced by the evolving of the electric fluid, through the collision of bodies of cold and warm air. The same phenomena are observable in New Caledonia ; the east wind, passing over the glaciers of the Rocky Mountains, cools the atmosphere to such a degree as to cause frost every month in summer ; the west wind, on the contrary, causes heat ; and there, as in Ungava, the change of winds is followed by what may be termed the Mountain Aurora {Aurora Montium ?) During my residence of five years at Ungava, the thermometer fell twice to 53° below zero ; and frequently ranged from 38" to 48" for several days together; the extreme heat rose to 100 at noon in the shade. SOIL. 107 The soil of Ungava consists principally of decayed lichens, which form a substance resem- bling the peat moss of the Scottish moors. In this soil the lily-white "Cana" grows, a plant which I have not seen in any other part of the continent, although it may elsewhere be found in similar situations. In the low grounds along the banks of rivers, the soil is generaUy deep and fertile enough to produce timber of a large size ; in the valleys are found clumps of wood, which become more and more stunted as they creep up the sides of the sterile hills, till at length they degenerate into lowly shrubs. The woods bordering on the sea- coast consist entirely of larch ; which also pre- dominates in the interior, intermixed with white pine, and a few poplars and birches. The hardy willow vegetates wherever it can find a particle of soil to take root in ; and the plant denominated Labrador tea, flourishes luxuriantly in its native soil. In favourable seasons the country is covered with every variety of berries — blueberry, cran- berry, gooseberry, red currant, strawberry, rasp- berry, ground raspberry (rubus arcticus), and the F 2 108 ' ANIMALS. billberry (rubus cham4 O 12; Eh t-5 §-5 13 C3 cS ^, M N 05 o C3 00 §)« = >i-^ & to '-2 to o o ^ a rt =a . .a os ■r' . ' « 5 o ^ Ee ::X -^ .t: 5 i5 c3 o W)-a a 5 — a a j3 .-< ""' Is § a CO '« O _:3 CO ;4 3 a 324 VOCABULARY. rt ^ •^. fl K-* -tJ < nana Itay. tao. a ^ Ph C la honan la hon ee la elday. la hon 11 i ecrd sin e impay. ozud sing O Dirius a ga Dinnay you Tzay quay. Ed dinna g Dinnay yoo Dinnay tee Ma kad ray Tunnchee h Ed hun. Tza. Tlcc. Kagh. Zus. HH KH H^ k-H 1 — 1 «oK ft K WE^E^-^ftftOO ft &^&^^S^^g§:g^i^Wcl o si C3 bo H 02 a ci ■ 3 — o .i3 a> r! (u ft • 4) ^ 2 °

> :« _ r! . Tshee o nay E yay thay . Na zed . . Nodzed . . Nazin zed . Naze zedeo . Nazin zedeo Owadio tzed Uz. eay gha . Uz eay ghan Ud zeay gha . Uz ugho-ghay i Uz ugho ghay i Utza ghay aghc Utzay rad lotsh Utlint lotsh . Utroz lotsh . Utlo wod lotsha Tiodzud udzee Tiodzud udzce Mata oz lay . Mata an eelay Kita od eenla Mata ad oz id 1 Mata a la ozayi Ma til a leeay 1 Magad ay a Mahigan . . . Ma kay sbish . Ni mfi tcbin . Ki ma tchin Ma teliio . . . Ni ma tchinan Ki ma tchinawao . Matcliiwog . . . Ni mi na hon . . Ki mi na lion . Miuaho . . . Ni mina honan Kim in a honawa Minaliowog. . Ni baap in . . . Ki baap in . . . Baapio . . . Ni baap in an . . Ki baapiu a wao . Baapiwog . . . Ni da dil wan . Ki da du wan . Atawayo.. . . Nin da t;! wfin an Ki da til wan o wa A til way wok . Ni no ti ni gan ^ a cc .S a a a ■ • 3., " a-^ ^ ° ^ .^ a^rtJ?.rt5^tDW)>^w3)!>,. . ..2a^"^t= • ^ '^ 7 ^ aS,0 — -3 0) o <-■■ 1 2 — — - a 0) ,3 ai to-S"^ o a a o o 3 ,3 O -»^ 3<45« tc t;...^ 3 „ ^^^ !>H H — &^ E O 1> e ^ — a _S !»^o^'^o.:r'^j="^ VOCABULARY. 327 Theed ghnz. Tiiood ghaz. liay u(l ghaz. Ilaysta. Nad-ha. Eo ed ha. llcel tell, llool tell. lie el tell. Oz ta in is tan. Ned ha. Zinhud hee. Dthin ghee. Vj you issay. E youk uz ay. Hal in nee. o o o o N! o 'to " a -a =* § s; -3 Ee-gha. A yous kay. Ahil kay. Ahil giith. < Tee ay ghay dzin f aglion dee ay . \ 1:3 ^0 I'tzag ghay .... A jcs tee . . . . A tee tshe etsh . . Aglia tee et yetsh . . 5 < o "x 2 o o •dl---- ^-4 w^ a Kee-ee pee .... Ni bas giss e gan . . Ivi bas giss 6 gan . . Bas giss e gay-o . . a X 1 wao n . n . nan nawac o Ni ni ban an Ki ni ban a Ni ba wog Ni minik wa Ki niinik wa Minik way o Ni niinik wf Ki niinik wa Minikway w Ni we mini( Minik quay Mee tisso Niba. . Awi.ss tay Ass-tum . Wi da ma o < a ■ 5 a Ni ni ba min . Ki ni bam . . N i ba wog . . Ni niinik way . Ki minik way . Minik way . . Ni minik way mil Ki mink waim. . Minikway wog. Ni we miniquay Minik quaino . Wiss in . . . Ni ban . . . Eko kan . . . Undass is han . Win da ma o . a ■3 .&• a b: rs a < ■3 a < Wee weep 6 tan Ni bas giss e gay Ki bas giss 6 gay Bfis giss c gay . Be quick . . . I shoot . . . Thou shootest . He shoots . . . "c We sleep . . Ye sleep . . They sleep I drink . . Thou drinkest He drinks. . We drink . . Ye drink . . They drink . I want to drink Drink . . . Eat .... Sleep . . . (lO away , . Come here Tell him . . p a • ■ a 3 -a u a • £.5 328 VOCABULARY. o o o u ^ i-^ -3rti ^ • • c« fl O) rt o -•-I to «!_,_. K. fan Cli '^ O G> w vn _j Q IS o a p . ..s aj ^S'^.S: J'"''- S t^fcD.i^.s ..js.....g. ..2 _„ to «j ^ 2 o ." a >. fl 10 ",,,•-< 1) o o S '=* :1 '=« '5 l2 — vS :-l d ^ k5 <= =2 L^ !>- " rt h2 1^ ^'^^ «J .-" o o t» o o ai -d o jd o > 4) .A =^1 o ■ s.a • d ^"1 4> mmmm^- w i^ wmmm imi 'J I