977.3343 IB19' iumhs usroncju. mm Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign • http://archive.org/details/historicgalenaye01bale ■ Printed by GALENA ADVERTISER Galena, Illinois 1946 \}oxs,vjoxd On the evening of De- cember 27, 1926, in this old Colonial home, Pris- cilla Mullens Chapter, D. A. R. of Galena, celebrat- ed the Centennial Anni- versary of the naming of their historic town, which was done on a far away December day in 1826 (December 2 7). The name Galena was selected by a majority vote of thirty men — its meaning (sulfide of lead) being significant of the locality. The ancestors of the majority of the members had been early day set- tlers in Galena and Jo Daviess County.They had forged their way over hazardous, unbroken highways to found a new home. Coming from over the Atlantic Ocean, New England, and the far South into the dangerous lead mine district that was peopled by Indians i 20 North Bench st. and adventurers. These ancestors treasured the memories of their lives and experiences, and their descendants related them at this meeting. The names of these pioneers are allied with the history of Jo Daviess County and Illinois, as well as the nation. They were Chetlain (Switzerland) , Gra- tiot (St. Louis), Soulard (St. Louis), Newhall (Massachusetts), Jackson (Maryland), Haines (Massachusetts), Benton (New York), Bruner (Penn- sylvania), Hoskins (England), Hunkins (New England), Spensley (Eng- land), Roberts (England), Hempstead (Connecticut), Washburne (Maine). Florence Gratiot Bale, at whose home the meeting was held, (as Chapter Historian) gathered data, traditions and history of Old Galena, and pub- lished a booklet "Galena's Century Milestone." It was so well received that a permanent Galena book has been published since then. It has been most gratifying that these booklets, telling of Galena's historic days have served as a guide to the hundreds of tourists, artists and old-time residents of Galena, who wander over its hills, re-peopling the old buildings with these fearless pioneers who made its history so lasting. To follow the story of Galena and the part it had in the development of the Northwest when it was the center of the great Mining District, you are asked to refer to the pictures of its early days in this book. They are all authentic, made from drawings, water colors, oil paintings and originals belonging to Galena families. They will point the way to each important location in the little journey you may make over its crooked streets, steep steps and verdure covered hillsides. Seeing Galena with an understanding of its history will enhance the pleasure of the travelers visit and for this purpose the book is published. F. G. B. "January's Point 1824"— First Location of the Town of Galena HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY BURTON'S LEAD SMELTER— 1830 GALENA'S YESTERDAYS With the background of over a century of history, Galena in' Jo Daviess County stands apart from other towns in Illinois, and bears the distinction of being one of the oldest, as well as one of the most beautiful little cities; its story of "early days" is full of the romance that adventure, discovery, Indian warfare, and pioneer life always bring to a tale of years gone by, and "Galena's yesterdays" recall, not only the great lead mines that made it famous in the 18th and 19th centuries, but the names of many distin- guished men who became national heroes. In 1820 the great trek to the mines of the Northwest began, and thou- sands drifted to the locality of Galena from all over the world, to try their fortune in the rich but crude mines that were discovered about 1700 by a Frenchman named La Suer, who, in ascending the Mississippi River, en- countered Indians working rude mines that produced lead. He described the location as "on a small river that entered the 'great river' in its east bank," and in his official report called it the "River of Mines." The Fox and Sac Indians had pitched their tepees on a high bluff that rose from the river named by them "La Fevre"; for years the settlement was called "La Point." In 1824, a trader came from Kentucky whose name was Thomas January. He established a trading post on this hill top which was then known as "January's Point." Soon the village moved down nearer the river with the mines and smelters near by, and the first location was abandoned. In 1826, a town with lots was laid out. There was a population of 400, mostly Indians, traders and miners, a few log cabins that housed the fam- ilies of the traders and the miners lived in rude shacks and tents, all hud- dled on the River Front and a few on the higher level above it. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY THE DOWLING HOME— 1847 In the recent Hist- oric American Build- ings survey conducted by the Department of the Interior, many of the splendid early homes in Galena were immortalized. Typical of them is this old one built by Nicholas Dowling, son of John Dowling, in 1847. The years have enhanced its beauty. Janet Ayer Fairbank made it the home of Abby-Delight, the heroine in her novel "The Bright Land." During the years that have passed, this old home has been owned by C. W. Perk- ins (a partner in the Grant business), Mrs. Margaret Mayburn, Mrs. Eliza Chamberlin, Mrs. Hempsted Gratiot, and The William Grant Bales. This view of Galena's "Main Street" and business district in 1844, with its wares dis- played on the sidewalk, is evidence that the town was living up to the stride of com- merical progress that came with its important location. It was the central point for the river traffic between St. Louis and Ft. Snelling. It had Fort Armstrong (Rock Island) to the south and Fort Crawford (Prairie du Chien) to the north. They were the out- standing military posts on the western frontier. The increas- ing population rivaled youth- ful Chicago, that was to the east of it, from which place the Frink and Walker Stage line made a semi-weekly trip to Galena with the depot at the foot of Lake Street in Chicago. Main Street 1844 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY BURTON'S LEAD SMELTER— 1830 GALENA'S YESTERDAYS With the background of over a century of history, Galena in* Jo Daviess County stands apart from other towns in Illinois, and bears the distinction of being one of the oldest, as well as one of the most beautiful little cities; its story of "early days" is full of the romance that adventure, discovery, Indian warfare, and pioneer life always bring to a tale of years gone by, and "Galena's yesterdays" recall, not only the great lead mines that made it famous in the 18th and 19th centuries, but the names of many distin- guished men who became national heroes. In 1820 the great trek to the mines of the Northwest began, and thou- sands drifted to the locality of Galena from all over the world, to try their fortune in the rich but crude mines that were discovered about 1700 by a Frenchman named La Suer, who, in ascending the Mississippi River, en- countered Indians working rude mines that produced lead. He described the location as "on a small river that entered the 'great river' in its east bank," and in his official report called it the "River of Mines." The Fox and Sac Indians had pitched their tepees on a high bluff that rose from the river named by them "La Fevre"; for years the settlement was called "La Point." In 1824, a trader came from Kentucky whose name was Thomas January. He established a trading post on this hill top which was then known as "January's Point." Soon the village moved down nearer the river with the mines and smelters near by, and the first location was abandoned. In 1826, a town with lots was laid out. There was a population of 400, mostly Indians, traders and miners, a few log cabins that housed the fam- ilies of the traders and the miners lived in rude shacks and tents, all hud- dled on the River Front and a few on the higher level above it. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY FIRST STONE HOUSE— BUILT IN 1826 The first stone house was built by John Dowl- ing and his son, Nicho- las, in 1826. These men came from St. Louis, and in the little stone house (which is standing uninhabited today on Di- agonal St.) they had a store com- bined with their dwell- ing place, which was quite the center of the social and commercial life in that frontier community. By their business ability, the Dowlings were able to branch out into a more substantial building for their trading post in 1831. They built this stone structure on Main Street across from their own home. It had a large hall on the second floor, a room for a school in the basement, and was called "Dowlings Stone Store." In 1838, for the "winter season," Joseph Jefferson, his wife and troup of players, with little "Joe" (who t .^ afterwards became the fa- mous actor) put on plays in the hall. The opening per- formance was "Wives as they are and Maids as they were." The admission was $1.00. Young Joe took part in these performances, and attended school in the base- ment school room. In 1836, the town bought half of the building for a Court House, and it was used for that purpose until the present one was built in 1844. Nicholas Dowling was "Galena's second wealthiest man." The Galena Daily Courier spoke of him in that manner when it pub- lished his obituary, March 29, 1860. Records in the Jo Daviess County Court House estimated his estate at $100,000 — and that was wealth in that early day. :t III . i»foM-.;- 'DOWLINGS STONE STORE" HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY GALENA IN 1856 HEIRLOOMS "THE HOUSES IN THE HILLS' Architectural heirlooms are many in this quaint old town. Gray stone churches over one hundred years old; lovely old homes with leaded glass windows, and marvelous stained glass over arched doorways with iron and brass hinges and polished knockers on the doors; all telling of the type of cultured Pioneers who founded Ga- lena. But one by one, these fine old mansions are passing from the old families into the newer life of the old town. Some are too large for present day living and are made into a two- family house. Others are still occupied by the descendants of their early owners. "They stand here and there Upon the hills In remote places above the city's streets Houses of dreams The homes of pioneers. When they came to build their homes of rest It was the highest hills they chose Where round about Their vision still might seek unchecked To the far horizons they so loved." J. P. G. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY RF Steamboats Landing on the "Levee" as it was when The Grants Arrived in April, 1860 "What makes a city great? True glory dwells where great deeds are done Where great men rise whose names athwart the dusk Of misty centuries and gleam like the sun." — Faulke. "In April, I860," to quote from Hamlin Garland's "Life of Grant," "Men stood on the levee watching the steamer Itasca* while she nosed her way up the tortuous current of the Galena River; as she swung up to the wharf, attention was attracted to a passenger on the deck wearing a blue cape overcoat. As the boat struck the landing this man rose and gathered a number of chairs together, evidently part of his household furniture. 'Who is that?' asked one man of a friend on the river bank. 'That is Capt. Grant, Jesse Grant's oldest son; he was in the Mexican War — he is moving here from St. Louis,' was the reply. "Capt. Grant took a couple of chairs in each hand and walked ashore with them. His wife, a small alert woman, followed him with her little flock (four children, Frederick, Ulysses, Jesse and daughter, Nellie). The carrying of the chairs ashore signified that Ulysses Simpson Grant had become a resident of Galena." The Grants rented a very unpretentious two-story brick house on one of the steep hills that rose to a high elevation from Main and Bench Streets; the street was appropriately called "High," for to reach it a long flight of wooden steps had to be climbed. This slow method of returning home from the business section on Main Street each day must have been conducive to the forming of many deep friendships, and visiting with each other shortened the climb and doubtless cemented the deep attachment that Grant had for his friends on "the hill." HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY THE GRANT HOME ON HIGH STREET From this home Capt. Grant answered the call of his country in 1861. In a few days Grant was established in his father's Leather Store at 120 Main Street. This store was an outlet for the tannery owned by the elder Grant at Covington, Kentucky, and his younger sons were in charge of the Galena business. They were Simpson and Jesse. In 1861, a few months after the outbreak of the war, Simpson died in Galena of tuberculosis and is buried in Galena's Greenwood cemetery. Another brother, Orville, then became head of the firm which later removed from the original store in the Coatsworth building to a location a block east and it was then known as the Grant & Perkins Leather Store, but it was in the store in the Coatsworth building that Grant became a clerk and quietly and faithfully performed his daily task that brought him the sum of $600.00 a year. This classicly designed building was erected in 1858 under the plans and the di- rection of Ely S. Parker, a young civil engineer from New York (he was a full blooded Indian) . The "Marine Hospital" erected in 1856 was also built by him. They were for govern- ment use, the first, the Custom House, for the river traffic, and the second, the Hospital, for the use of men who needed hospitalization from the river boats. The Custom House is now the United States Post Office in Galena. 10 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY GENERAL GRANT IN GALENA l. The High School steps are very long; Up to the mist above the mound They rise because he builded them To walk upon. . . Step, step At night, and scuffling on the dusty ground. Half-baked cigars I knew he smoked And though the air were rich or thin Step, step. His mottled garments Beat the wind, And like a common man he walked. 2. The north hill, the south hill And all along the seven hills Which lift beyond. No ivy vine Was free from his caressing hands. I saw a wall, a roseate glare, And knew he moved therein And crushed the grass. Turn out! Congeal on parade, You fools! Not every town Will see a warrior pass. 3. And Pilot Knob had shuddered up Its shoulder at a thousand boats; Ten thousand anxious eyes had glimpsed Its round. Up there he walked with bugles Through a lane of purple coats; "It's well," he tritely spat, and struck A match. Oh, ride to Vicksburg Where the cannon smoke! Galena slept, and bats came out To dance above the dawning street, Step, step. . . In bricky ghostliness We met . . . and no one knows it (For the neighbors were asleep, I said; The Campbells, Kittoes, Rowleys were All deep in midnight wells.) But oh, the magic splutter Of a wet cigar the psychic mirth Of shadows grim; I paused saluted No one knows it. But . . . I held a match for him! — MacKinlay Kantor. Published in Chicago Tribune Linotype Column HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY II Store of Grant and Perkins on Main Street, 1863. C. E. Perkins, a friend of the Grants, bought an interest in the firm. After C. E. Perkins became a partner in the Grant Leather Store — the business was moved a block down Main Street into MAIN'S* The old Grant store on Main Street, 1860; now the Coatsworth building and store, marked by the Daughters of the American Revolution, Priscilla Mullins Chapter, April 27, 1938. a three story building — as the wholesale end was expanding and more room was required. The original bill of goods is the valued property of C. E. Venable the son of W. W. Venable who had a Harness and Saddlery Shop on Main Street; the bill has great historic value for it not only has the signature oi iather of U. S. Grant but the brothe were associated in the firm. (USEL7HXA tut i ii |! KoMM,I.iL:^3 & Bindings, j XM8S, | *i .. GJ±S,33: JPJ^XT> FOB 23EI3DJSS : I «£ Mart* SKrc#C, Miinn R.&TLA3ST, irlckmeclu 3srs A.asrx> pelts. Ifofc^ € \#&%tf/?**4-~ s* Bill of Goods Signed by U. S. Grant, Just Before He Left for the Wai 12 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY JO DAVIESS COUNTY COURT HOUSE— 1839 The old court house was designed and built under the supervision of the pioneer Catholic missionary, Rev. Father Samuel Mazzuchelli. In April, 1861, Capt. U. S. Grant offered his services at a mass meeting in the court room after war was declared. Galena was like every city, town, and village in the states above the Mason and Dixon line on April 12, 1861, when news of the firing on Fort Sumter came to it. Closely following the first news, the electric wires flashed the story of its capture, and on the fifteenth, came Lincoln's proclamation and his call for seventy-five thousand men to save the Union. A mass meeting was at once called to sustain the President and enlist men for service. One can visualize the patriotic and tense gathering of the male portion of the town as they went to the old court house the evening of the 18th of April, fired with national pride as well as indignation. Owing to his West Point training and military experience in the Mexican War, Grant was asked to preside as chair- man. There were many men in that gathering who knew the quiet, undemon- strative man only as a "clerk in Grant's leather store." One man in the audi- ence objected to Grant's presiding at the meeting, inasmuch as he came from St. Louis, and it was reported that his wife, Julia Dent Grant, had been the owner of two slaves, and so her husband must have sympathy for the south. Honorable Elihu B. Washburne, Republican member of Congress, hotly replied to this remark, "Any man who will try to stir up party prejudices at such a time as this is a traitor to his country." John A. Rawlins, a young lawyer, made a characteristic speech — and ended with the stirring and remembered sentence, "We will stand by the flag of our country and appeal to the God of Battles for support." HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 13 General U. S. Grant GALENA'S NINE CIVIL WAR GENERALS AND OFFICERS "Thou dist hear thy country's calling. Illinois, Illinois, Mid the din of war appalling, Illinois, Illinois." General Ulysses Simpson Grant John A. Rawlins John C. Smith William R. Rowley Augustus L. Chetlain Jasper E. Maltby Ely S. Parker John E. Smith John R. Duer Melanchon Smith (Lieut. Col.) Edward D. Kittoe (Lieut. Col.) Bushrod Brush Howard (Capt.) Hill Street Home of John A. Rawlins — 1861 Galena General John A. Rawlins was born and reared in Galena. Practicing law at the time of enlisting in the service of his country. He was chief on Grant's staff; a Major-General and Secy, of War under Grant's administra- tion, died during that period at the age of 37. He was buried in Arlington Cemetery with the highest honors his nation could bestow. General John A. Rawlins 14 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY General John C. Smith— 1886 John Corson Smith was a close friend of Grant. Their friendship was formed in Ga- lena and continued through their lives. He was a contracting carpenter and builder in Galena and Dubuque. His military career became notable for his splendid, fearless courage. He was brevetted "for gallantry" by President Lincoln as Colonel in 1865, and as Brigadier-General by President Johnson in June of the same year. He served his State as Treasurer and in 1884 was elected Lieutenant-Governor. William R. Rowley, Clerk of the Circuit Court of Jo Daviess, was made Brigadier-General and Provost Marshall on Grant's staff. General Rowley's health failed him before the close of the conflict and he was unable to remain with the Army until the end of hostilities, so returned to his home in Galena. He was one of Grant's closest friends and un- til his death in 1886 the home of Rowley was often visited by his Commander and a warm personal friend- ship existed between the families. Rowley's home on Hill Street was next to General Rawlins. Hill Street Home of Gen. W. R. Rowley— 1861 Galena HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 15 The Chetlain Homestead, Built in 1832 is in a Remarkable State of Preservation -J This fine old home is on ground bought from the government in 1836 for $4.00 per acre. The house was built by Louis Chetlain, who lived in it until his death in 1872. His son, Augustus L. Chetlain was born on this farm, and was the gallant Captain of the first Volunteer Company of Galena. He was commissioned Lieut- enant-Colonel, May 2, 1861; Briga- dier-General, December, 1863. After the war he served his country as Con- sul General to Belgium, and spent the latter years of his life in Chicago. General Augustus L. Chetlain— 1881 16 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY Left to right— Jasper E. Maltby (General), Melanchon Smith, John E. Smith (General), Edward D. Kittoe (Lieut. Col.) H^^^^^B ^fc; - •^ — -"41 fl^HEg^Hi SL? HOME OF GENERAL JOHN E. SMITH— S. BENCH ST., GALENA HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 17 HOME OF DR. EDWARD D. KITTOE ON HIGH STREET Jasper A. Maltby was a gunsmith and an ardent patriot. Ha had seen service in Mexico, and became Brigadier-General in the Civil War. He made his home in Vicksburg after peace was declared and died of yellow fever in that city. John E. Smith, a jeweler on Main Street, with a store near the Grant location, and a close friend of U. S. Grant. At the time of the call for volun- teers, he was treasurer of Jo Daviess County. After his enlistment he became Colonel of the 45th Regiment, Illinois Infantry Volunteers, known as the "Washburne Lead Mine Regiment," and afterwards, Major General, U. S. A. He was then on the staff of Governor Richard Yates, and called to Spring- field to assist in the organization of the ninety-day troops. Edward D. Kittoe, an Englishman by birth, but an ardent .American by naturalization, was a physician and friend of Grant, and became surgeon and medical director of the army of the Tennessee with rank of Lieutenant- Colonel on Grant's staff. After the war he returned to his professional life in Galena and died in the old home on the hill in 1887. General John R. Duer, a resident of Galena, was killed in service, and little is known of his history. Captain Bushrod Brush Howard, friend of General Grant, was killed in action in Virginia. When Grant became President, he gave appointments to Annapolis and West Point to Howard's two sons. 18 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY General Ely S. Parker— 1884 General Ely S. Parker, a con- struction engineer, a full-blooded, highly educated Indian of the Sen- eca tribe, chief of the Six Nations of Northern New York State. His Indian name was Do-ne-ho-ga-wa, signifying "The Keeper of the West Gate." He was descended from the famous Indian Chief, Red Jacket. Parker was Brigadier-General and Military Secretary for General Grant and appointed Commissioner of Indian Affairs after the war. Elihu B. Washburne, a native of Livermore, Maine, was one of the Washburne brothers who made fine records as governors, senators, and developers of industry. He came to Galena a young man, and studied law with Charles Hempstead who was a leading lawyer in Galena. For eighteen years, Washburne was a member of Congress, then Secretary o* State, and Grant appointed him United States Minister to the Court of France. He was a devoted friend of Lincoln and Grant. He was called to the front to advise with the General, and was at Vicksburg at the time of the surrender. His wife was Adele Gratiot, daughter of Colonel Henry Gratiot. On the lawn of his lovely Colonial resi- dence, U. S. Grant drilled his raw recruits for the war in 1861. Elihu B. Washburne On the lawn of this lovely Colonial residence U. S. Grant drilled his raw recruits for the war in 1861 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 19 "PEACE IN UNION" This magnificent life-size painting was presented to the City of Galena by a former Galenian, H. H. Kohlsaat of Chicago on April 27, 1895. The painting is by Thomas Nast, the greatest war artist of the Civil War time; it depicts the Surrender of General Robert E. Lee at Appamatox, April 9th, 1865, with Grant and Lee as the central figures; General John A. Rawlins is standing tall a*nd gaunt near the man he loved as citizen, friend and commander; somewhat in the background is General Ely S. Parker, the full-blooded Indian Chief on his staff, and at the left of Rawlins is General John A. Logan. There is deep understanding by the artist of this great hour in American history. Every detail in it is complete — the personality of the four Generals who are the central figures is fully depicted in their appearance — Lee, in perfectly groomed boots and uniform — Grant with mud caked boots and careless coat and tie. History will always record that Grant was faithful to the confidence his Nation placed in him In those dark years of the War. History will also record that great act of the Conqueror when he wrote that magnanimous sentence in the terms that the vanquished foe must accept, "The surrender will not embrace the side arms of the officers." And, the tall, dignified Southern soldier. General Robert E. Lee, could retain the beautiful, glittering, sheathed blade that hung by his side as he sealed the peace compact with the clasping of Grant's hand. As one looks at this painting and recalls the incidents of the surrender of Lee, they must realize what a great and generous conqueror Grant was, and remember with pride that command he gave to the victorious army when they began firing a salute of victory. "The rebels are our Countrymen again,"— and the firing ceased. General R. E. Lee was accompanied by Col. Charles Marshall, A.D.C. Secretary to General Lee and Col. Orville E. Babcock. 20 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY \Mlr taf'iti HAIL TO THE CHIEF WHO IN liLL'lul H ADVAIltl 9 IS&6»*&^ rii->v-? ;- Arch Across Main Street at the DeSoto House on Grant's Return From the War— 1865 On August 19, 1865, General Grant returned to his home. The town was wild with unbounded patriotism and rejoicing; throngs came from all over the country and the nearby states, to welcome him; flags and festoons decorated every corner, and in front of the DeSoto House an immense arch spanned the street bearing this inscription, "Hail to the Chief who in triumph advances!" Draperies fell from its sides bearing the names of those decisive battles, that are in history with a stainless glory and with which Grant's name is always linked. The following dispatch was sent to a Chicago newspaper: AUGUST 19, 1865 GALENA, ILL. — Galena is in its glory today. Gen. Grant has come back home. He arrived here after a triumphant journey from Chicago during which he was given ovations at every station ana hamlet along the route. Minute guns were fired as the train passed. On arrival here Gen. Grant was met at the station by fully 10,000 persons. He and his party went to the DeSoto House, where 36 beautiful young ladies, dressed in white, formally greeted him. The Hon. E. B. Washburne delivered the address of welcome. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 21 Arch Across Main Street— August 19, 1865 He went forth as Tennyson tells us Sir Gallahan did with these words "My good blade carves the casques of men, My tough lance thrusteth sure, My strength is as the strength of ten Because my heart is pure." During the early part of the war he was home on furlough and a friend made the remark to him, "Some day you will be a candidate for high civic honors," and his quiet reply was, "I would like to be Mayor of Galena, then I might get a sidewalk built from my home to the depot." When the city and country for miles around welcomed home the hero of the War and the foremost military Chieftain of the Century, one of the arches over Main Street bore the in- scription, "General, the Sidewalk is Built." A new walk of shining pine boards was ready for the great Gen- eral to use. GRANT LEAVING GALENA In the late Judge Spens- ley's History of Jo Daviess County and its noted men, he repeats the statement made by Thomas Roberts, one of U. S. Grant's close friends, that when Grant left Galena for Springfield, he went from his home alone, walking to the Illinois Central depot over a miserable pathway and carrying a little satchel in his hand, "unnoted and unhonored." Grant. A Galena Citizen Photograph by Henning. 22 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 1865 The memorial home was presented to General Grant on his return from the War— General and Mrs. Grant on Veranda. GRANT MEMORIAL HOME America's heritage! Your hallowed shrine, Where we may come and be more close to you In spirit, here among the things you knew And loved- . . . What priv- lege to learn how fine And sacred are the forces that combine To bless a Nation! Hickey — "Monticello" The war was over and Galena had welcomed its hero home. The citi- zens chose to honor their fellow townsman with the gift of a home more suitable and in more keeping with his new life than the one he had left in 1861. They purchased a fine brick dwelling from Mr. Alexander Jackson who had built it in 1857 for his own home; it was located on the high peak of Bouthillier Street on the East side of the river. The Grants established themselves in this residence and renewed their early friend- ships, and once more Grant was a private citizen of Galena until his nation gave him its highest honor — then he served his two terms as its President. After he had completed his Presidential terms he started from Phila- delphia May 17, 1877, on his fanious journey around the world, returning December, 1879, landing' in San Francisco. His return to Galena met with another great ovation. General and Mrs. Grant took up their life in their own home with the modesty that had always marked their lives; their children were all located in other places, but made frequent visits to the quiet retreat that Grant hoped to enjoy for many years; their old friends were welcomed and simply enter- tained, and many a Galenian of middle age today can recall climbing the hill as a little boy or girl with an autograph album tightly clasped in their hand so that they might obtain the signature, and speak to the hero of the Civil War; and none of them ever left the hilltop without having their request graciously granted if the General were at home. The stress of War, political life and the long fatiguing trip had left its mark on Grant; he was weary and fully enjoyed the relaxing from cares of state and the adulation of Royalty and was content to fall into the friendly life of the quiet old town, to sit in his yard and enjoy the view from its height. He brought with him from Japan a fine type of Japanese servant — "Yanada" by name, and it was the General's custom to walk to town each morning accompanied by his faithful Oriental. They would call for the Gen- eral's mail at the Post Office and then go to the office of General Rowley on Main Street; the two old war comrades would have their morning chat. HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 27 The Grant Me- morial Home as it is today has a setting worthy its national interest; thousands of tour- ists, patriotic Americans, and foreign travelers make pilgrimages to this spot — Priscilla Mullins Chapter D. A. R. marked the home with a bronze tablet June 14, 1928 — Comrade William L. Hod- D. A. R. MARKING MEMORIAL HOME sen — G.A.R. unveiling it. In February 1932 the appointment of the first custodian was made Charles Allen is the present attendant employed by the Illinois State De partment of Works and Buildings. GRANT MEMORIAL HOME 1939 28 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY nois and Wisconsin — promoting the founding of Beloit College in Wisconsin and Rockford "Female Seminary" in Illinois. First Presbyterian Church 1831 The First Presbyterian church was founded in 1831 — with six members — the Rev. Aratus Kent came to "The wilds of the west" from New England and preached the first Protestant sermon in the settlement in 1829. He gathered six de- voted members for his church's foundation in 1831 — he was a leader in educa- tion and religious life in Illi- In 1856, the Methodists erected their present building. Bishop John J. Vincent, who planned and instituted the great Chautauqua move- ment, was at one time pastor of this historic church. The pew in which the Grant family sat is marked with a silver plate properly en- graved with the name "General U. S. Grant." This church is a lasting monument to the zeal of the Pioneer Methodists in the settlement called "The Lead Mine District." As early as 1828, they sent their Missionaries into the min- ing camp of that early day. METHODIST CHURCH— BENCH STREET Church Home of the Grant Family HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 25 Parlor with Furniture, Carpet and Pictures as it was left by the Grant Family nearly as possible as it was when he resided in it, with his pictures and furniture placed as they were at that time." In February, 1932, the Grant Association of Galena gave the Grant Memorial Home to the Illinois State Department of Works and Buildings. The site has been enlarged and beautified; a glass room has been built to keep intact a buggy and harness used by General Grant in Washington, and given to the Ryan family, who were his close friends, in Galena. Douglas Ryan, a son, presented it to the Memorial Home. Dining Room with China and Silver used in the White House — Fruit on Table Preserved by Mrs. U. S. Grant 26 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY In Grant Park stands this statue presented by Herman Kohlsaat, editor of the Chicago Times Herald, and a native of Galena. This gift was unveiled June 3rd, 1892. The sculptor was Johanes Gelert of Chicago, and Chauncey M. Depew delivered the address. The city was full of notable people, and members of the Grant family were present. The park was bought by the city and Was made a beauty spot to form a fitting surrounding for the sacred memorials it holds; Grant's statue, a granite shaft to the heroes of the Civil War, and cannons from the Civil, the Spanish and the WorJd Wars. •GRANT OUR CITIZEN GRANT PARK WITH HIGH SCHOOL ON THE HILL HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 27 The Grant Me- morial Home as it is today has a setting worthy its national interest; thousands of tour- ists, patriotic Americans, and foreign travelers make pilgrimages to this spot — Priscilla Mullins Chapter D. A. R. marked the home with a bronze tablet June 14, 1928 — Comrade D. A. R. MARKING MEMORIAL HOME William L. Hod- sen — G.A.R. unveiling it. In February 1932 the appointment of the first custodian was made. Charles Allen is the present attendant employed by the Illinois State De- partment of Works and Buildings. ,„ ^ . * . \ HP Hi i™ \ . :K M. I GRANT MEMORIAL HOME 1939 28 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY nois and Wisconsin — promoting the founding of Beloit College in Wisconsin and Rockford "Female Seminary" in Illinois. First Presbyterian Church 1831 The First Presbyterian church was founded in 1831 — with six members — the Rev. Aratus Kent came to "The wilds of the west" from New England and preached the first Protestant sermon in the settlement in 1829. He gathered six de- voted members for his church's foundation in 1831 — he was a leader in educa- tion and religious life in Illi- In 1856, the Methodists erected their present building. Bishop John J. Vincent, who planned and instituted the great Chautauqua move- ment, was at one time pastor of this historic church. The pew in which the Grant family sat is marked with a silver plate properly en- graved with the name "General U. S. Grant." This church is a lasting monument to the zeal of the Pioneer Methodists in the settlement called "The Lead Mine District." As early as 1828, they sent their Missionaries into the min- ing camp of that early day. • • > £$kpf ■;■-■ \\ ■|p| |Hh v.^jPfl' ... '-^zsfi - y .r,:"-""^ »i^ifl| METHODIST CHURCH— BENCH STREET Church Home of the Grant Family HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 29 w GRACE EPISCOPAL CHURCH— 1838 To select but three of the old churches in Galena today is rather a hard task, but the ones described are the oldest buildings and have special significance for a visitor. They are all being used at the present time. Ac- cording to the rector of Grace Episcopal Church, thousands of devout travelers have entered the lovely Gothic door of Grace Episcopal Church, and regardless of faith or creed they reverently absorb its religious atmos- phere. The first service was held in a log tavern in 1826. Then in Captain H. H. Gears own home. He gave ground, on which was built the present church in 1848. Its organ is almost one hundred years old, was brought from New York City by way of New Orleans, and the River Route to its present destination; it has a beautiful walnut altar carved by Guster of New York, and a Lectern carved by Gronner of Galena. Many bronze memorials are on the walls and the windows have exquisite coloring, and produce a soft, religious light. 30 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY Galena's Civic Center and Museum of History and Art. Formally opened September 1, 1938. 207 South Bench Street "Galena of today" has made a forward and important movement in the founding of its Civic Center and Museum of History. Richard Gear Hobbs and James B. Sheean faithfully pursued this objective until they achieved their plan of securing a suitable home for the heirlooms from the families of Jo Daviess County, and its County Seat, Galena. Both men are representatives of pioneers of the locality, Mr. Hobbs having Captain H. H: Gear as his ancestor, and Mr. Sheean has a long line of the legal profession in Galena as his background. His mother was a sister of General John E. Rawlins. She was the one daughter (Laura Rawlins) in a family of nine sons and her education was completed in the "Galena Academy." The fine building that now is the safety store house for Galena's memorials, was the home of the John Ross family. The I. O. O. F. bought the home some years ago, and enlarged it for use as a lodge and center for their Order. By a favorable turn of circumstances, it was bought by the city, and given to the Museum Association with a lease for one hundred years without taxation. This splendid civic cooperation by the city fathers, united with other organizations and patriotic societies, and with every citizen falling in line and taking just pride in the project, has made this a memorable Red letter year in the history of Galena. To have a center where valued things are collected makes an interesting place for the tourists who annually come by the thousands to the town that is filled with historic lore. This museum is something that will make Galena even more interesting than it has been; these visitors will catch the spirit of the days gone by, as they visit Galena land, and its Treasure House. The famous painting by Thomas Nast "Peace in Union," has found a perfect setting in the hall on the second floor, (the hall is 40x80 feet long and wide.) Outstanding on the museum walls are three famous flags — when Commodore Perry left the ship "The Lawrence" in the fight on Lake Erie in 1812, his battle flag went with him, carried in the arms of Captain H. H. Gear, the flag ensign on the ship. Captain Gear's life-sized portrait hangs on the north wall of the great HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY 31 Hall. He came to Galena in 1827, bringing this historic flag with him, and now it has a place where all may see its faded folds that speak of American heroism. Of equal interest is the regimental flag of the 45th Illinois, the Washburne "Lead Mine" regiment. It was in all the battles fought by that regiment, and the first to be planted inside the Confederate lines at Vicksburg. H. H. Taylor, color bearer of Company "C", had many nar- row escapes from death as he carried this banner from field to field. Torn by shot and shell as can be so plainly seen, it finally passed to General John E. Smith and was loaned by his grandson, W. K. K. Smith, to the Museum. The trio of great flags is completed by the one made by the women of Galena for the first company of soldiers going to the front from here in the Civil War, and that is of peculiar interest to the town. Note the church at the left cf the Museum in the picture. It is St. Michael's founded in 1831, and called "The Cradle of Catholicity" in Northern Illinois. Father Samuel Mazzuchelli, the noble-born Italian missionary, bad for his parish Galena, Dubuque, Iowa, Shullsburg and Benton, Wisconsin, a parish that covered twenty-five square miles. His portrait, a copy of the one painted in Italy, hangs in the Museum. The notable collection of portraits of Galena War heroes and statesmen is one to be reverently studied, for these men helped preserve the nation's unity as well as making Galena's record in Civil War history outstanding. A precious heirloom centers the hall; it is a hundred year old piano, could its yellowed Ivory Keys tell a story it would take one back to the year 1833 when Col. Wight brought it to the settlement via New Orleans and "The River" route. Mrs. Madison Y. Johnson, a daughter of the Wight's gave it to Mrs. Harriet Webb Crawford and by her generosity and civic pride in the Museum she gave it to the historic collection in "The Hall of the Pioneers" — from the Wight's and Johnson families the following romantic story is told. "When it reached Galena Lieutenant Jefferson Davis was at Prairie du Chien, where Zachary Taylor, afterwards President, was commandant. Davis wanted to dance to the music of that piano so Sown he came with a party. In the party was Taylor's daughter, and possibly on that trip was born the romance which resulted in Davis and Miss Taylor eloping a little later and getting married in a famous his- torical runaway match." FIRST OFFICERS OF MUSEUM ASSOCIATION James B. Sheean, President Mrs. Harry L. Heer, Vice President Miss Minnie Whitham, Secretary Albert J. Hirst, Treasurer MANAGER Richard Gear Hobbs, Ph. D. CHAIRMAN OF DIRECTORS Mayor I. L. Gamber PRESIDENTS OF THE FOL- LOWING ORGANIZATIONS COMMERCIAL CLUB A. J. Hirst LIONS CLUB Dr. Ray E. Logan WOMAN'S CLUB Mrs. S. R. Finifrock D. A. R. Mrs. Henderson Smith, (Regent) Priscilla Mullins Chapter New High School Steps leading to Prospect Street and Homes above Museum 32 HISTORIC GALENA YESTERDAY AND TODAY GALENA'S HOLLYHOCKS Bravely upright, like soldiers on parade, They climb the slopes, these children of the light; With blooms they paint the hillsides warmly red, Or deck the heights with blossoms lily-white. From where they halt and take their stately stand, They look across the vale which time forgot, Where sleeps the town, and dreams dreams in quiet peace Of many a mighty son by it begot. I love the bravely growing hollyhocks, Which ask no favors of the gardener's hands, For, like the pioneers of yesterday, They seize and hold the places where they stand. Richard Gear Hobbs. A Galena Hillside covered with Hollyhocks— St. Mary's Church on Franklin Street Extreme Left.